Evening star., 1898-08-27
THE MONDAY MEAL.
A Growing Disposition to Give More
Time to Eating.

From the Philadelphia Press.
A noticeable change, it is claimed, is oc-
curing in New York city in the manner
and method of tunching by business men.
I he old rush and hurry are giving way to
more leisure, and the fiye-line row of impa-
tient humanity which once fought for place
and the attention of the waiter at the lunch
counter has melted 10 thin row only one
deep. Clubs and ''sit-down' restaurants
are growing in popularity, and the men
who once imagined that the financial and
pl ofessional world would go all awry II
they gave more time than five minutes at
neon to appeasing their apDetites are find
ing that the wheels of trade can run on
without their constant attention, and that
little comfort and care of the stomach
are paying investments for the business
nan.
This change was sure to come, yooner or
later. The reign of the quick lunch coun-
ter was certain to be brief 1t was de-
maided by the changes taking place in
methods of business and manner of living,
So long as the merchant and professional
man could live few squares away from
his office the old custom of serving noon
dinner was kept UP, and husbands, fathers
and sons appeared regularly 1t their places
at the table. But when the distance be-
tween home and office heightened to a mile
the old practice had its obstacles, and
when two miles interyened 1t became i'm
possible TO keep 1t up. The constantly
growing gap between business center and
residence center put up an efrecuual bar
r.er to the noon dinner and the lunch coun-
ter came in in its place.
In New York city the change was sudden
ard complete. But Philadelphia fought long
and hard for its midday meal Its stomach,
with Quaker persiStency refused to be
sighted. But at last it had to give in.
The growth of restaurants during the past
ten years IN the business part Of the city
i-laS a1,a
according to the demand The transition
from the home dinner to The lunch counter
has been made without any intermission
tiled with the lunch basket brought from
home. This is another reason for regret
The original Harper Brothers. who estab-
lished the welI-known publishing house in
New York city, were accustomed for years
after they could not go home to a noon din
ner to carry their lunch with them and eat
1t in the office. And it is claimed that in
the informal talks ever ,hase lIncheops
some of the most suggestive hints as to i'm
provements in their business came out.
But the lunch basket is too old-fasllioned
TO make headway against the lunch coun-
ter. The incentive must come from anoth-
er source, and the stomach seems to have
given it. That n1uch-abused organ is re-
voting against the swallow now and chew
afterward" method of allaying midday hun
ger. Dyspepsia with all it's attendant evils
is beginning to teach men that digestion
must be cared for and that a fortune won
Dy ulSODtylHS TIE laws OF hGaitl is an in
sufficient return for broken-dcWn con-
stitution. 1t is related that physician ad-
viSed a victim of hasty meals to take
trip to Europe, and when that was declared
to be impossible, the physician admitted
that 1t would do just much good If the
patient would stay at home and take an
hour for lunch. A majority of cases OF the
same disease could be cured in the same
way.
1t is at first wonder and at last q de-
light to the American, newly arrived in
Lcndon, TO see the English business end
professional man lunch. If he belongs TO
the former class, he frequents the small
restaurants in which London abolnds, and
leisurely enjoys juicy steak and sips his
hagon of beer, feeling sure that the British
empire VIII come to no harm while he is
caring for his stomach. But If he is for
tunate enough to be a bencher he sits down
In the inn" on the hard seat by the side
OF the bare table polished by use Ind black
ened by age, while the waiter spreads his
napkin and serves his roast beef and
steaming potato, knowing all the time tlat
Judge and jury are indulging in .he same
feisureiy luxury. If this custom can be
made popular in America It will result in a
large addition to the stock of national
health and to the capacity of enjoying ufe
There will be fewer men brea kiav down
at an age when they should be looking for
ward to years of usefulness. And especial
ly the leisurely lunch should be enc ,I-agad
at this time when America is stepping out
into the worlds arena and men vigorous in
mind and muscle will be demanded to hold
the first place among the nations Of the
earth