The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
LONG CORSETS TO BE WORN
ENGLISH CORSET IA DRIyEy nm.
THE FRENCH. va

SANNt NNmnH
Dress reforms come and 20. but the cor,..
lives them oil down. Doctors rail at II. HALL
associations make n mighty hullabaloo .h "a
1t. Certain women's clubs. after coro,n~O
girdinR up their own individual corsets Ian,
the thunderbolts Of their Theoretical dis.n
proyal at the corset in general. II INNS, =.
that the doctors. the health associations 80
the clubs enjoy the excitement. for thai y.
no other visible reason for their keeping n M
Apparently 1t has no effect on the cor..s
which "a as popular us ever.
A Frenohman. who Is q %well-knoyn m,L..
Of corsets in New York, says that tho sor.,.
form divine Is to undergo more yicissi,nda.
than usual in the coming season, Tia IT,
has gone by-in fact. IL never was-whsn !.
woman could be truly said to be settlsd -
life. Tho goddess Of fashion sees to IL tb,,
woman never has a chance to settle down Va
marriage. no. nor any number OF marriaps'
can accomplish 1t,
How Is a woman TO feel settled when aha Ia,
to BIO elongatinR her waist or shutting II n.
like a japanese %lanternP That is the vsys
woman has to live. One season she ha, "a
have large Lips. and the next no hips At all
In June she must be willowy; In January an
must be bouffante. Long feet this year. short
feet next: blooming In spring. fragile in an.
tumn: brunette, then blonde: first she has ma
ears. next she has no brow. and next she canY
get brow enough: presto. change! her haIv
must go from grave to gay. from black to gold.
from a soft primness to an Astounding and al.
fulgent pompadour. A woman cannot fsL
settled when she has to be compiling her own
vital statistics on such a scale.
That's the way 1t Is with corsets. Woman
have no sooner got used to the short French
corsets than along comes a decree from thu
fashion mongers and announces tina the Ene.
lish style will prevail. When women first nm.
dertook to wear the short corsets. they felt Al
If they had got into a Rirdle by mistake. Their
shoulder blades timidly scraped up an an,
quaintance with their gowns, and the womsn
first pulled the corset down and then
"hnnched" It up in an effort to reach the aC.
they given, up all this and adjusted a new
boundary line than the whole, thing has to b
high bust Will be the reignlng style" Of fgurs
this season. provided the fashion decree gets
in its work In time.
institution as It eyer was, still there have been
some changes both In the, article itself and In
Soes gsy a pt M %ade of &C. Sout Hhe s s5Sa vii mPp4 nS . p
continue to be made Of that fabric. It is the
least expensive Of the materials used and
price, Within the last few years French "a:
tsiste has grown LARGELY IN favor as a material
era / eHgS Slender W VIII Be m more Is ee ens6 qRIS n 10 ;
like a tight board fence or a steel cuirass u'A'
the same Old plan, ,steeis 'front.' back {, u and u On
der the arms. with groups q, very narrow
% sIef1ons a9 az tR Re1 corss Set TSieR hail All h the denuni;
in the last decade have failed to change the
construction OF the corset in the slightest de-
complished 1t In short order. however, and.
while very many small bones are used In the
more more EXPENSIVE 1 pens corsets. thelr place has beep
What the pleas OF the doctors did not 40.
gained in o .rSundabout way. Probably the
increasing interest which women have taken
In o Sbd00s sports D ITS Is Gor respon Mt,6,d for FL the great.
years dealers have been overwhelmed with de-
mands for a corset which would give the
ored plates shown at health lectures and point.
ing terrible, warnings about the compression
OF the hoatinR ribs were not behind this do
mand. 1t was the woman's own intolerablO
discomfort. She had tried to walk. to play
Eolf. to ride a wheel and she simply suffered
The Frenchman above referred to said that
such demands became so numerous that they
io5naeSdi, corset did hYi not st meet leeef the ne ea1 o IL oouId
be let, out, until it ceased to bind above the
waist line. but then it was useless below the
not only laces in.the back. but also on each hip.
In this way there can be had all the room any
firm and snug, The corset man says that wo-
men with abnormally large hips and that
crowding Of flesh down below the waist, can
restore the lines Of her figure by wearing one
will grow slender, but that the flesh will re-
sumo It's proper disposition and that her lines.
while they may be excessive in the matter OF
Only people who know nothing about the
matter say that women lace as they once did.
rare than a twenty-inch Waist is now. Wo.
men do not lace as they did. Indeed. it isn't
often that q woman laces at all. When she
properly fitted. The, hour-glass waist has.
most appropriately. been burned down. It's
sands have run out and there are no signs Of
Furthermore, it is an easier matter to in;
troduce q fashion which permits freedom and
1t has once been enjoyed. The sleeve cru
sade proved that. The fashion monGers were
their present snug p proportions. !" It Would b
u much more difficult matter to squeeze the
waists Of the women Of the world from twenty
thing of any vital onsequence that is, nothing
but can endure q little Snugnesa. And arms
S Sis s Ret grey PSgi f%o if IF tSey lq aIEa lf theS SHri Est t E:
two inches in the sleey YES Of today. But the
women who have adjusted their internal econ:
easily do It. even # they want TO-,
The trend Is altogether In the direction Of cut
ting down the measurements around the hips.
and as the hips are bound to n policy OF eI-
pansion II the. waist Is compressed, the pros
poets are still bright for the waist. No laclnG
Is in sight.
Women, have learned several things in. tho
course, q the last few years. They. have
learned that while all waists may look alike 10
the average dealer in corsets, there is a heap
difference between any two Of them. Moro
and more women are having corsets made p
order. This means an outlay Of from So or "a
up to the vanishing point. The best known
makers do NOTHING, for less than 81. For -
terial Is h~eayy-too heavy for those who do not
like the tiRht-board effect; But the wearing
qualities are excellent. and the corset is made
as carefully as II the material were finer.
corsets cost from $40 to 500 made 70
Silk and satin ones cost from Sl5 to SO.
These prices can be divided in four for me
ready-made corsets, although some
ones cost fully as much as those
made to order. Colors are in greater demand
than white, but the rage for black corsets has
passed. Plenty Of them are still sold, but ~
the expensive grades the lighter colors are IN
demand.
American Men Not House ClinEers.