The times., 1898-07-31


or obscured. AS far as Rthe discerning
eye is able to see this lovabie goods is
going 10 push right on into the autumn.
and if you happen to have even two or
three OF these webby gowns in your sum
mer wardrobe. lay to your heart the
fiattering JUNCTION that you are very
nicely provided with the beginnings Of
an autumn trousseau.
In case your equipment. however. does
not include voile and you set forth to
buy one. be very careful not to drop into
error with regards the color Of wolfe.
There is nothing so offensive in these
days Of hard high tones in dress as
tint or shade that is demode or beyond
the pale Of fashion. woman is more
severely judged now by the color than
by the cut of her pretty rig. and yet
more by the combinations of colors her
costumes display. OF all the blues that
have in the past twelve months glowed
on the dressmakers horizon. Chinese
azure Is the one right and only variety
to wear. BY this is meant the deep rich
tone that glows on those jars and platters
that are worth their weight in gold to the
students of ceramics, not high, staring,
frivolous blue. but a perfectr match with
willow pattern cups when they are true
to the Oriental potter's mark. With such
blue yellow is thrown in combination.
Next after Chinese azure watteau gray
claims distinct preference, and 10 men
ton carbon brown is fairly telling tales
out Of school, for il is one of the surprises
saved for next season. In the ateliers in
Paris. where experts and artists forever
study ana invent combinations and
schemes Of color. It has been decided for
the Immediate future. or. 10 speak more
emphatically, for the next SIX months.
to keep all costumes SO far as possible,
IN but two cOlOrs admitting, Of course.
black and white.
To further explain, a Chinese azure
wolfe may have belt. collar. and lining of
buttercup silk and yet be prettily touched
up with the new white satin gimp. A
watteau gray foulard can be figured in
black and further adorned with discreet
touches of sang-de-boeuf silk under back
lace. Beside carbon brown. sage green
and rose and black are laid. and in this
wonderful last color you will soon see. in
the shops rich Venetian and Vienna
cloths crepes. and satin surfaced silks
for already dealers in fine raiment are
clearing out the last Of the spring stock
10 make ready for the rush of the season
next on the years program Within a
few weeks all the buyers will be home
from Paris, and even now some of the
early birds have come back talking of the
French substitution OF clear copper color
for burnt orange among the cOlors for
trimming.
All the handsomest black costumes in
cloth. drap de Paris and wool veiours or
silk are. so they say TO show copper silk.
satin and velvet undertake vests asa
panels Of very open worked black en-
br0idery. Already some Of these back
and copper gowns are seen in Newport
bail and drawing-roOms and every
woman who lifts a black skirt shows
either a copper-coIored silk petticoat OF
foundation jupe.
More splendid than any other fabric
yet seen are some Of the vests and panels
and inserted vandykes on the very, very
advanced black toilets. These costly
scraps Of material are coppery hued vel
vet with gold and silver threads shining
out from the silk mesh. The letting in
OF Yandykes and the insertion of a color
under braiding, lace or embroidery shows
signs though now in It's incip!ency. Of be-
coming a decided and prevalent fashion
likely 10 influence future dressmal1ing.
and IL our modes are TO be taken from
new importatiOns seen at the leading
watering places. then We may make uu
our minds 10 hook and button all our
winter frocks under the left arm ONLY
the commonplace bodice comes together
IN front Of a free fed. for decoration
across the bust is demanded by the dress
maker who leads. OF course women may
grumble against this last order, but nev.
ertheless a more gracious and becom!nE
waist is the result OF the under-arm hook
ing
Any woman with two intelligent eyes in
her head and reasoning brain back o.
her eyes needs only to watch a well-cos-
TUNED Casino group. or lake notes along
the drives at Bar Harbor. Newport, etc.
10 receive two or three very positive anC
refreshing Impressions
The Trst Of these relates to the pictur-
esque sleeve of the day. II is close 50
close that when made by an artist it hugs
the arm without a wrinkle and rolls uu
from the small cuff that overspreads the
knuckles clear up TO the armpits Here
like a smOothly-drawn kid glove the
sleeve opens bell shape around small
puff. which rather resembles a musk
melon in shape. and, if the sleeve is cloth
or silk, this puff is most likely made OF
Of gathered or pleated silk muslin To
complete the arms decoration. a very
modest fat epaulette extends from the
shoulder upon the puff A bit of braided
cloth. two wedge-shsped pieces of goods
or scraps Of rich embroidery form the ep-
aulette that is invariably edged with q
narrow quilting Of material from which
the puff is made. Through some flight o:
strong imagination this arm bag has been
christened the Charles the Ninth Sleeve
Bringing her inquisitive vision to bear
on the body of the average good gown,
the note-taking woman will observe
since all dress waists hook up to the left
they AL SHOW unique trimming and shan
ing tending that way. A large percentage
nave their fronts cut in an exact right
angle triangle The point of the angle
hooks under the left arm. over a full un.
dervest Of soft yellow lace. or embroid-
cred muslin. which shows thus on The
left shoulder and under the left breast.
Other fronts spread up to hook on the
left shoulder. but catch only once under
the arm. for the material is sloped ava,
below this point 10 admit a gust of lace
or an undervest OF brocaded satin to ap
pear. To sum up. the whole impression 1.
that OF series of very bizarre little bo
lero fronts that adequately and charm
ingiy ill the aching void left by the deai
old pudding bag or pouched front
Late as 1t is In this season. the sum
mer wrap has only just modified It.
forces and stepped out on anything iIlI'
impressive and instructive dress parade
Women whose pockets are lined wit
gold, or whose name signify al
most unlimi.e ed credit at the shops wea
exquisite confections when driving ant
calling that are compromise between
the almost obsolete boa and the equally
degenerate small cape. That is to say. al
enormous ruche of black silk violets, 81
roses or heather blossoms encircles tn