The age-herald., 1898-08-10
Fashion Notes on War Styles.

Fashion swings about in wide orbit and they wore during the time of the civil war they would now come in very handy for the adornment of their daughters. The belle of the earlier eos loved the same cut of gowns, the same jaunty hats and curly coiffure that is now delightlng the girl of 1898.
 The great similarity in the modes of the two periods is best illustrated by the com parison of the portraits of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln and Mrs. William Mckinley in ball costume. The beautiful rose colored satin gown of Mrs. Lincoln would not attract attention in ballroom of today if it were not distended by the hoops, which for tunately have not yet come in with the other war fashions.
 This gown was one of the most beautiful ever worn in Washington by Mrs. Lincoln, who was renowned for her extravaganza and love of dress. It was made of a pale rose satin. The flounce of black Brussels lace was made to order, and it is said that the pattern was selected by the Elm press Eugenie The waist was extremely decolette and was cut in very much the same fashion as is now worn and trimmed in the same ruffes of lace. The hoop skirt, five yards In circumference, that held out the skirt of this dress, really marks the only great difference between this costume and that in which Mrs. Me Kinley is pictured and which she wore at several state functions of the late spring.
 Even the dropping shoulders that were deemed most lovely in those other war days are again in vogue. The girl who has prided herself on the square set shoulders "a lq1 har in xvid ,,,ct now cultivate a pensive droop that always goes with little curls on the neck. The coiffure of the years 1864 and 1898 are strik- ingly similar, with little curls, a wavy pompadour and the net that is just return ing to favor
 A glance at the pictures of the hats that topped the curls of mothers and the travelling hat of today shows how much alike they are in shape and adornment. The flat trimmings and the long floating os- trich feathers mark both times.
 The bolero jacket, which bobs up as a fashionable adjunct to dress about once in five years was as dear to the heart of the girl of 64 as 1t is to us. and was cut in the Turkish, zouave, Spanish and Greek shapes. The fashion magazines declared that there was never before such a rage for these stylish little jackets, becoming all figures"
 The kerchef ruffie as a finish to low necked party gowns was considered a most elegant finish, whether made of silk, mus lin lace, In those other war days and is just now announced as one of the trines that will be necessary for the stylish ball gown of this fall. It was just at this pe- riod too that tarleton and the silk gauges were as much worn by fashionable women as they are today and the crisp black taf- feta costumes were part of the wardrobe of the belle of 64 just as they are the cor rect wear now for certain functions.
 The tiny lace handkerchiefs with round corners carried by our mothers to the station to receive their tears as the sol diers left for the front are again displayed in the windows of importing houses, and are rapidly superceding the square-cor- nered handkafa The little fan, scarce