davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1898-11-20

embroideries and draperies for her bou-
doir, or prizes and sweetmeats for her whist
party, she has no time to look into the
cosy home which lies beyond. These inter
lesting views have been reserved for the
woman teacher, artist, physician and jour
nalist.
And the artist has fascinating tale to
tell of wonderful beauty in the person
of the wife OF partner in one of the
largest importing houses. She is only 10
years of age, and like every good wife OF
every nation, has left home and kindred
for her husbands sake. To our western
eyes she seems like a charming young girl,
frankness and artlessness rersonifed Her
eyes and hair were dark and lustrous, and
her expression was so full OF health. kindli
ness and vivacity that it was pleasure to
look upon her. Her English was limited,
but she could ''smile in all languages" and
then her native dress was quaint and ar
tistic!
Imagine, if you can, crepe silk just the
color of the garden petunias-an indie
scribable light tint, which is not lilac and is
not lavender either. This formed a tunic
very similar to that worn by the men, ex.
| cept that it was more elaborate and grace.
full. Its rounded yoke of black satin was
clasped near the left shoulder with tiny but.
tons which entered silk loops, and fastened
| for the second time beneath the arm. This
The herald., 1898-11-20

youth has been pronounced brunette, with
black hair and dark gray OF black eyes. As
time goes on her once fresh complexion be,
comes sallow and wrinkled, even though it
may remain clear and free from blsmish
Her hair has changed to iron-gray--black
hair rarely becomes snow-white, that piece
OF good fortune being reserved for erstwhile
blondes-but to 90 on, noting her iron-gray
locks and the excellent contrast they afford
to black, she Immediately decides, without
further consideration, or even a cursory
glimpse at the face, framed by the gray hair,
that black, and black only. suits her best
Whereas, as matter of fact, a moments s
reflection would have shown her that,
though it may be-probably does--suit her
coiffure, her skin looks quite two shades
shallower, and her wrinkles are twice as ap-
parent as if she had modified her gown with
some redeeming touch of color near the
face But dresa the same woman in a shade
of gray, for preference, dark steel or silver
the very pale tones of this hue are best
reserved for the young-and, hey! What
an amazing difference we shall see. The
sallow skin loses half its sallowness. There
is almost touch of the bloom upon the
cheeks which twenty years ago was there in
reality. The black eyes have'a brillancy
and the gray hair sheen which was totally
obscured by the black gown.
The herald., 1898-11-20
Nainsook With openwork Embroid-
cry and Lace

fascinates. She commenced by saying:
Journalists are born, not made. l began
my career as a journalist in London, and if
| had not been born with the gift of style
could not have been successful. Now l can
buy handsome gowns natty hats and feather
boas with money earned by my pen. asked
the advice of Clement Scott.
Countess" said Mr.. Scott, 'it must be
that you could write you speak SO beauti-
fully"
1t was a misfortune in the family which
drove the countess to her pen. 1t is terrible
the way misfortune has of seeking out count
esses, but it seems, like envy, to love a shin
ing mark. At any rate, goaded by misfor-
tune and encouraged by Mr.. Scott, the
countess wrote il thousand words and he
traded her two guineas for them.
Fate continued to pursue the countess
with relentless hand. Editors began to Of
fer her ten shillings instead of two guineas,
and then the worm turned. 1t turned to
South Africa, for change, and the countess
became shining light in Johannesburg
journalism Here, as she confidently in
formed the women, her success was again
due to her style
She finished her remarks with the start
ling announcement that the crying evil of
journalism was the drinking habit among
women writers, the noblest of Them having
gone down under the effects of whisky and
champagne. The countess was the most re-
freshing incident of the convention and quite
took away the breath OF the delegates. The
country members asked in awed tones for
the lady's card and bore away in triumph
the bit of pasteboard inscribed with her
name.-New York Sun.
The herald., 1898-11-20

the back, gave the finishing touch, together
with her pocketbook, which was piece of
genuine extravaganza, as it was of walrus
hide, with gold filagree mounting and set
with amethyst centers. 1t cost $lS and
really was bought against her better judg
ment, but all her friends had books of ele
phant skin and the walrus hide was newer
and only few dollars more.
We have said that she also had fitted
bodice of the cloth. This, made with point
in front, short coat tails at the back and
closed with amethyst buttons, she kept for
wear with fur cape or a colarette, two of
which she bought. The first, of Parma velvet,
had triple outstanding Medici collar, the
edge of each corded, the bias neckband also
corded and four fur tails falling in front
Two paste buttons or ornaments set on each
side made the little collarette thing of
beauty. The second, of tatfeta, its double
collar and necktie bound with Astrakan,
was not so becoming but immensely stylish
notwithstanding
As the days went by she bought many other
things, among others shirtwast of mauve
flannel, and to wear with it stock cravat
made of eight-inch taffeta ribbon to match
and spotted with white. She also bought
lovely theater waist made in the jacket
shape, OF green and white brocade, with
bayadere stripes; the edges were frilled and
edged with narrow black velvet ribbons. 1t
had a vest and yoke of cream crepe de
China, very prettily gathered and bordered
with tabled trimming consisting of green
and white silk, with narrow black velvet
baby ribbon and cream lace applique.
For afternoon wear she provided herself
a skirt of string colored satin and jacket
bodice OF satin covered with white guipure,
the center panel or vest draped with white
chiffon. So far she has purchased but one
little evening gown of pale green taffeta
with ruches of black mousseline de sole.
She has others in preparation which we will
illustrate when finished.
From the winter girl to the woman of 6fty
seems far cry, but dress is more important
to the latter than to the former. 1t sets off
4 the beauty of the young, but at fifty it serves
to conceal the ravages of time, if properly
understood, and l feel moved to let Won
know the result of my consultation this
week with one of the most artistic men
dressmakers in the city.
One great error to beavoided by the elder.
ly woman who wishes to detract from her
apparent age is overindulgence in black.
Yes, know all you would urge in it's favor,
nevertheless, ! adhere to my statement.
Black is not becoming in a vast majority of
cases to the 'middle-aged, that is to say, un-
relieved black. For instance, take that
frequently-met type, the woman who in her
The herald., 1898-11-20
Ohe W<nter Sz7 ona Jfc~ Outf1

NEW YORK, Nov. l4.-(Specisl Core
spondence to The Herald.) BY Thanksgiving
the erstwhle summer girl has transformed
herself into the autumn and winter girl, and
reioices in the possession, not only of sew
arai new gowns, tat OF many of the swagger
sary to chic appearance.
And this is the way she set about her
transformation. Her tailor-gonwn was her
first purchase, and although she was reas-
sured by those who ought to know, that
fitted coats were out and capes and long
outer garments were in, she ignored the in
formation and bought cloth coat and skirt
and blouse to complete the costume. She
had a fitted waist of the cloth made as well.
1t was difficult to decide between the half
inch checks in fawn and white, or black and
white of the almost indestructiblc tweeds
and the smooth, fine broadcloth. She &C.
lected the latter of lovely shade Of Parma
violet and had the coat mace with revers
and collar Of chinchila. If her purse had
been little less well stocked with cash
she would have selected a cheaper fur, AS
trakan, mink, bear or Alaska sable For
wear beneath her coat she purchased an
under jacket, with sleeves of black China
silk, thickly padded with wool and quilted,
the wadding judiciously thnned around the
waist in order, of course, to preserve the
slenderness of her figure. This slipped on
easily over her satin blouse and added to,
instead of detracted from, her form and ap-
pearance.
The skirt of her gown she had made in
one piece, cut from the with of the doil-
ble-fold broadcloth and without seam, the
closing being in front. 1t was as if she had
swathed herself from her hips down in an i'm
mcnse half circle of goods, no fulness at the
waistband even in the back, but plenty be-
low, us you can easily understand. You see
she did not have flounced skirt, for al
though they are still in favor, the seamless
skirt in one piece was newer.
Her muff, of course, matched the fur Of her
gown. Her hat, of Parma velvet, had shaded
ostrich plumes of the same exquisite tint.
To wear with this costume she bought man.
fashion shoes of fine calfskn, with extcn-'
sion soles and military heels. Her gloves,
OF thick gray suede, stitched with white on
The herald., 1898-11-20

1t is also a falacy that deserves to be ex-
ploded that white should only be worn by
the very young. This is distinctly an error
of taste l grant it the passee girl or wo-
man should avoid white, but once the rubi-
con of middle age is safely passed it may be
INDUCED in its ivory, cream and oyster gray
shades with absolute success. Pure white
what dressmakers call "snow-white''
should not, however, be chosen, but this is
the only exception to the rule.
At recent smart function 1 saw good
illustration of this in the garb of the host
ess. She was handsome, well-preserved
woman of perhaps fifty-odd years, with
bright, dark eyes, slvery hair, aquiline fea-
lures, and complexion which, considering
her age and the fact that i. owed nothing to
art, was simply wonderful. Her gown was
of dark ivory brocade, very simply fash
ioned, the bodice tight-ftting, with yoke
of old lace, the basque long tailed la Di-
rectoire, the sleeves small, set into the shoul-
der with the smallest possible amount of
fullness, and finished at the wrist with
ruffles of old lace. She wore for all orna-
ment diamond brooch and one or two
fine rings, and yet, in spite of the simplicity
of her attire, she was far and away the
best dressed woman in the room. So much
for the afternoon.
Upon another occasion-this time in the
evening-she wore gown of silver-blue
brocade, SO pale that it looked for all the
The herald., 1898-11-20
A CRYSTAL Jar for His Cigars

If in doubt what to give a man for q
Christmas present. crystal jar for his ci-
gars is not bad idea. A large jar uncut,
which will hold fifty cigars, is 81. The same
half cut So and $s Cut glass jars to hold 100
cigars cost $50 to $25. If the covers are of
silver, handsomely wrought, $50 and 500
are the prices asked. The smallest of these
Jars, if uncut, may be had for 50; half cut
for 81, and are used to hold cigarettes to the
number of fifty. Jars, both plain and cut,
with very large mouths are used for tobacco
and vary in price from $5 to $20.-N. Y.
Commercial Advertiser.
The herald., 1898-11-20
SHE MUST HAVE AWED THEM
A Countess Announcement at the
Club Women's Convention

There was a countess in town Friday. She
dawned upon the clubwomen's convention
in Mendelssohn hall at 10: AS a. m, and gave
them five minutes of keen delight. The
countess was all the more welcome because
she was unexpected. She was a complete
surprise to the women of the state fedora
tion--one of those happy surprises with pre-
ternaturally blonde hair and a complexion
which can stand the test of all kinds Of
light and of any kind of weather not too
damp. Somebody had asked how good style
in writing could be obtained and by lucky
chance, the countess was there to settle the
point.
Nobody knew the countess before she
mounted the platform, but that was an
oversight soon remedied. The remarks
made by the lady were autobiographical, but
no less interesting on that account Even
when the countess says nothing at all she
The herald., 1898-11-20

own, and held it well, with far younger wo-
men than herself
Space fails me just here, and | am com
p2lled to defer until next week the descrip-
ton Of several other gowns for the same
wearer. They are SO handsome that | am
sure you will like to be told about them
The herald., 1898-11-20

ished by deep frills Of the same lace as that
adornng the revers. In her pretty sill
very hair, which she steadfastly refuses to
dress low, because that mode does not hap
pen to suit her, she wore wired knot Of
old lace and a pale blue aerette; and once
again ! am bound to admit size held her
The herald., 1898-11-20

world like moonlight. The skirt of this
was amply trained, and the placket hole fas-
tened with small diamond buttons. The
bodice, slightly decolete, had broad revers
of the brocade covered with point lace:
and the sleeves, also of the brocade.
reached to the elbow, where they were fin
The herald., 1898-11-20
With Your Black Velvet Skirt

Wear one of the new cutaway coats Of
lace with your black velvet skirt. 1t may
be of, cream lace over white or black chan
tilly over white satin and edged with a
tiny ruche of black chiffon, but it is the cor
rect thing.--New York Sun.
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
WAR REVENUE LAW DECISION
Applies to Brokers but Not To Real Estate
Agents Simply.

Washington, j uly 25.-In a decision made
Saturday the commissioner OF internal
revenue holds that there is no provision
in the new revenue act under which spe-
oial tax can be held 10 be imposed on
real estate agents. or any person or
firm for simply buying or selling real
estate on commission, either for them
selves or for others; also that the law is
aimed at class of men known gener-
ally in the community as brokers.
"A man is a broker under the act"
the decision says, who negotiates pur-
chases or sales Of stocks, bonds. notes,
etc, in the course of business; and this
applies to real estate agents, insurance
agents, attorneys, or persons or firms
who in connection with their profession
or occupation make is a regular part
OF their business TO negotiate purchases
Of stocks. bonds. notes, etc, either for
themselves or others"
The true northerner., 1898-07-27

vral Skaters army and Of the general
himself: The work done by these
troops since landing. their heroism and
patience under discomfort, heat and
rain, calls for the highest praise; and
the work accomplished by Shafter, his
pertinacity and go-aheadativeness'u un-
der adverse circumstances and discom-
forts is a revelation TO me.
Il doubt if there is another officer
who would have got there as he did.
Our loss was most unfortunate, but
from character of country could not
have been avoided If we had to get
there Last night the Eighth Ohio
were almost drowned out and it pours
today; that's the climate. Too
much credit cannot be given the hero
ism. pertinacity pluck, patience and en-
durance Of men who have borne the
brunt OF this week" General Henry
also speaks in high praise Of the work
of Clara Barton and Mrs Addison
Porter
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
PLAIN BREACH OF FAITH.
What General Castillo's Brother Calls Our
Policy a. To Cuba.


Santiago, July %, via Kingston, July
25.-The Cubans here resent General
Skaters attitude in ignoring General
Garcia and in refusing 10 allow the Gu
ban troops TO enter Santiago or to con-
suit General Garcia on the terms of the
surrender of the city. General Garcia's
action in withdrawing his troops into
the interior. his letter 20 General Shaf-
ter. and his resignation Of his COM
mand forwarded TO General Gomez. are
approved and applauded by all classes
Of natives. General Garcia refused to
accept a subordinate place, insisting
that he was an ally.
General Skaters answer saying that
this was a war between the United
States and Spain, and President Nc
Kinleys instructions with reference to
the administration Of the surrendered
district are interpreted as tacit avow
al of American intention 10 annex the
island and not to grant independence.
This is opposed by the Cubans. Senor
Joaquin Castillo. president Of the San
Carlos Cuban club. and a brother Of
General Castillo, urges an official pro-
test to President Mckinley without de-
lay, saying: Silence now would indi-
cate our consent 10 the American atti-
tude, which is a plain breach of faith
that the Cubans cannot possibly toll
crate"
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
Scores on the Diamynd.

Chicago, July 25.-Following are Sat-
urday's League scores at base ball: At
Brooklyn-Boston 4, Brooklyn 3; at
Philadelphia-Was ?, Philadel-
phia 6; at Cleveland-Chicago 2. Cleve-
land 4; at Pittsburg-Cincinnat Pitts
burg 2; at New York-Baltimore 0, New
York S. Sunday At Cincinnati
Pittsburg 5, Cincinnati 6; at Louisville
st. Louis l, Louisville 2; at Chicago
Cleveland 9, Chicago 8.
Western League: At Minneapolis
Detroit 2, Minneapolis 3: at st. Paul
Columbus 2, st. Paul 13; at Kansas City
Milwaukee 2, Kansas City /; at st. Jo-
seph-Indianapois 5. st. Joseph 4.
Sunday At Kansas City-Milwaukee
2, Kansas City 4; at st. Joseph-Indian-
apolis 3. st. Joseph Z; at Minneapolis
Detroit Is, Minneapolis 2; at st. Paul
Columbus s, ST Paul g.
The true northerner., 1898-07-27

''iirss q few years-part OF the ter
r.tory CT the United States. thus in
creasine the comfort and happiness OF
this people: but now all desire a gov
ernment OF our own as compensation
for the suffering and heroism OF our
army, and the definite establishment of
the Cuban republic with Cuban author
ties. i'm accordance with the resolutions
,f the United States.
I'VE hope that the present state Of af-
airs at Santiago. where Spaniards are
itill the administrators Of our interests,
property and fate, will be brief; that
he city may soon be turned over 10 the
cubans. and that our army may enter,
The flag OF Cuba waving triumphantly
beside the American flag as Cuban sol
Tiers fought side by side with the Amer
leans against the common enemy"
The true northerner., 1898-07-27

Of them are suffering severely from fe-
yer. The prisoners at Cavite complain
that they receive insufficient food. but
the rebels are unable TO obtain better.
have visited all the prisons and hospit-
ais. i found their condition extremely
filthy.
The surgical and medical treatment
was primitive. Since the arrival OF
General Anderson's brigade, however,
the prisoners have been employed in
cleaning and other sanitary work, and
there has been a marked Improvement
all around. On July 10 there was heavy
fighting around Fort Malato. General
Anderson moved 800 OF the First Cali
forna volunteers, under Lieutenant Col
onel Dubose, forward TO Paranaque,
several miles from Manila, behind the
rebel lines. On the following day there
was renewed heavy fighting around the
CITY,"
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
NATIVES HAVE swELLED HEADS.
wiIdman Needed at Cavite tn Restrain
Aguinaldo-HeavyF Fighting.

London, July 22.-The correspondent
of The Times at Cavite, telegraphing
July II, via Hong Kong, says: THE de-
velopments of the political position con-
firm the belief that the natives are
suffering from 'swelled heads and are
likely to cause trouble to the Ameri-
cans, whose preparations keep this con-
tingency steadily in view. 1t is re-
ported that in an attack upon Malato
today the rebels lost fifty killed during
a charge. A party were surrounded by
Spaniards and slaughtered to the last
man"
The Hong Kong correspondent of The
Daily Mail says: General Aguinaldo's
cabinet took the oath of office at Bacoor
on Sunday in the presence Of 5000 ma
tives. A fireworks display followed.
Aguinaldo is restless under American
restraint and wants TO capture Manila.
United States Consul Williams, who is
at Cavite, has written to United States
Consul Wildman here, strongly urging
him 10 come to Cavite and reason with
Aguinaldo with whom he has great in
fiuence. Wildman starts at the end of
next week"
The Manila correspondent Of The
Daily Mail under date of July 16. COM
menting on the state of anarchy
among the rebels" says: Each local
chief desires to become the supreme
ruler OF his island. 1t is pitiful to think
that a nation like the Spanish has been
beaten by such miserable specimens OF
humanity. American inactivity is tell
ing on the natives i'm the rebel districts.
Food is plentiful. but there is no money
TO purchase ii and no way TO distribute
it,"
The correspondent of The Times also
says: II visited the rebel lentrenchments,
which are less than a mile outside the
Spanish lines, at Malato l found the
rebels we'll armed. They are provided
with Mauser rifles and have two field
pieces. They are gradually forcing the
Spaniards back.
THE Spanish prisoners are we'll
treated by the rebels but they are all
terribly exhausted and emaciated. Some
The true northerner., 1898-07-27

service because the Seventh regiment
is to be reorganized with only two ma
jcrs. Ballou has been mustered into the
volunteer service and he cannot be de-
posed because Of the change OF organi-
zation.
Captain Ora Havill. OF Company G.
Ninth regiment, narrowly escaped be-
ing taken into custody Saturday by the
sheriff OF Randolph county, and was
only saved by the timely arrival Of his
father. Frank w. Havill, and his attor-
ney NJ. II. Mundy, of Mount Carmel.
who gave the necessary bail. Havill is
under two indictments for shortages in
the funds OF the Chester penitentiary, Of
which he was chief clerk.
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
Scores on the Diamond.

Chicago, July 22-Scores made yes
terday at base ball by League clubs
were: At Philadelphia - Chicago l,
Philadelphia 3; at Baltimore - Cleve-
land 6, Baltimore g. (second game)
Cleveland 7. Baltimore /; at Brooklyn
Louisville 5, Brooklyn 2; (second game)
Louisville Z, Brooklyn 4; at New York
-Pittsburg ., New York /; (second
game) Pittsburg Z, New York IL; at
Washington - Cincinnati u, Washing
ton 6; (second game) Cincinnati Z,
Washington 4; at Boston-St. Louis /,
Boston Z.
Western League: At indianapolis
Minneapolis T. Indianapolis 13; at De-
troit-St Joseph 2, Detroit 3; at Du-
buque-Columbus l. st. Paul 2; at Mil
waukee-Kansas City 7, Milwaukee 3.
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
AT MANILA
Will Probably Begin This Week
Unless August Concludes
to Surrender.
AGUINALDO GETS READY TO RULE.

Appoints n Cabinet for the PHILIPPINE Re
public-smali Prospect for Union Be
tween the Various Native Tribes-United
States Troops Quar- tered Near Manila
spaniards Buoyed Up by False Hopes
Old Glory Hoisted ON Another Island
In the Pacific.
Manila, July is, via Hong Kong, July
2.-Unless the Spaniards surrender in
the meant me Rear Admiral Dewey will
lombard the fortfications of Manila
by the end OF this week, provided the
troops are ready 20 take possession
Immediately. The First regiment is al
ready in the field at Paranaque, two
miles from Manila. The Spaniards are
reported TO have been buoyed up by the
hope that the Cadiz feet, due here on
the 18th. would arrive soon, but the
news OF the destruction Of Admiral
Cervera's squadron, brought yesterday
by the japanese cruiser Nanaiwa, may
lead them to surrender. The insurgents
The true northerner., 1898-07-27
knights of Pythias Hospital.

The Knights OF Pythias lodges of this
city have Joined in a movement to es-
tablish a hospital at Chattanooga for
the care of the sick members of the or
der who are in the volunteer army here.
A joint committee has been appointed
TO lease a commodious building and pro-
vide competent nurses. The hospital
will be open this week. IT is the pur-
pose to receive all soldier Pythians who
are sick, those who are able to pay a
reasonable fee, and those who are not
able TO be cared for free OF charge. The
supreme lodge will be asked at it's meet
ing in indianapolis next month to make
an appropriation for the hospital. Pyth-
ians in all parts OF the country are re-
quested to contribute.