The San Francisco call., 1898-11-20


 Fashion takes full breath. Not
 that her royal mandates are less N II frequent or less imperious. " Dressmakers' and miIliners bills
 occupy their time-honored posi- tion at the breakfast table along with the coffee pot and the morning pa per.
 But Dame Fashion has lost her worried. care-worn look. Unpaid bills are not in her dominion, and she enjoys breathing spell. Not that she is idle, perish the thought But her ingenuity and time are devoted to triles thin as air, yet mex pressibly dear to her feminine heart anu dearer yet to her followers For at Thanksgiving fads and novelties-in short the ct ceteras of the toilet, occupy the attention of Dame Fashion. Her royal edicts regarding other matters nave all been made public. The correct styles TOT the winter coats, wraps, hats, gowns anu bodices, are no longer in dispute. The royal finger of Fashion points 1nd1sputa- bly to what is to be ana "haI IS hoI 'o be.
 Until Fashion has settled the more nec- essary matters she turns a deaf ear to the fads and novelties. But when one py one one the other questions are dlSposeu olI Inea she lets herself run riot in dainty ana beWitching accessories. ,
 They are as plentiful as the sand oL the sea. Odd buttons, new designs Tn 1ewels, afry-fairy trifles that can be taSteheu on anywhere, something new from the crown of the head to the sole of the loot .ha crayet, or jabot. It is displayed every where and every woman either possesses one or has one in the course of construe- 1s ton. Those shown in the shops are ex- trenely pretty, but If one Is fond Of dolng dainty needleWork, the making or the cravats will be a pleasure as well as an The most popular of these ney stocks eb;s is made of dotted silk muslin, the stock laid in folds the cravat n erds m 1o,Dfe Dfeusd snd tied in a knot. The stock fastens at the back and is very easily adjusted.
 wSte SteeT Tme99ssene e9sss de soie, the ends over laid with fine black lace.
 Next to this comes the one or Whlte have ends either edged with very narrow black lace or fine pleatings or satln rlo- bon in color to match the cravat. There are plain black ones mat go very styiis;hf- ;fl ly with the blouses of light colored silk, and those of pure white muslin are There are vests and wide revers with stocks built on that may be easily ad- justed to the plainest bodice, ana i at 0fte phce give 1t dressy air They Ihey come ln rabIV Mi[e o satin. Trucking and rows of extremely narrow lace and shirred rlbJon are used ioF Every Se reda kind of lace. either real or imi tation. Is used in some way:
 If you are fortunate enough to possess lace 1t into a becoming knot. If there are some pieces too large to be used in this manner 1t can be utilized in other ways.
 Little sleeveless coats Of lace are charming adjuncts to a plain bodice Lace polonaises are worn as well. They are cut away at the neck usually to show the un- der bodice of chiffon. Short jackets of black Chantilly over white satin are ex- ceedingly stylish, made with the round cutaway basque and cut out at the neck enough to give yoke effect to the chif- fon bodice worn underneath. narrow 'ruche of black chiffon finishes the edge prettily Elbow sleeves are the rule for this sort of bodice.
 Whether of lace, chiffon, fancy silk or tulle these jabots are considered the most delicate touches of elegance. They have a pleasing soft effect and are particularly becoming. They have an unmistakable Frenchy air about them that proclaims the origin of their design if not the place of their manufacture.
 Buttons have been allotted a prominent position in society. They are of enamel, exQuisitely painted. of diamonds, of an tique silver and of pinchbeck, and even of old lace mounted on velvet. but one and all of them are of great size.
 Cameos that have long gathered the dust are being brought out of jewel cases. They are turned to good account as but tons and as clasps at present, and they are fashionable.
 Spun silk hosiery was never so beauti-