The record-union., 1898-04-03

formed into stylish spring costumes
by the fashionable dressmakers. and
Frenchwornen are now wearing black
and white satin brocaded shirt waists
with their stylish black cloth skirts
Waists of black and white or gray
and white stripes or dots are always
good style, whether made in the man
ner of the cotton shirt waists or with
full fronts turned back with white rev.
ers over a tucked chemise of fabric to
match. Aefulit blouse of cream while or
satin, covered everywhere with, a drap-
cry or yelling merely of jetted black
net, often proves the most. becoming
of all waists a slender woman of indif-
ferent complexion can select. Some
times cream ribbons matching the
blouse are the most complimentary adj
ditions she can make to the waist;
again, a bow of soft pink or brilliant
cerise satin works wonders of improve
ment.
There can be no doubt about the con-
tinued vogue of the shirt waist. The
matter of it's popularity for the sea-
ton Already it is prominently in evil
dence in both importing and fancy dry
goods houses. Models in every new
and pretty form are set forth by fash
ion designers, spring and. summer
opening" announcement contain spe-
cial notices of the shirt waist exhibit,
and dressmakers known and unknown
to fame are deluged with questions,
suggestions and orders for every sort
of model for women of everyt age, fig
ure and complexion; and waists are
being made for every occasion, except
ing those demanding strictly full dress
gowns.
The diminutive fancy jackets in Elton,
Bolero, French guard and similar we'll
known styles are still in good style,
Notwithstanding all the rumors and as
sertions to the contrary, and very
smart and stylish French gowns, just
brought to our shores, show these very
Jackets, accompanying gowns that are
all Of cloth, silk, drap d'ete OF similar
handsome stuffs, or with skirt OF
cloth or silk, a blouse of lace, brocade
or pleated chiffon and a jacket of
velvet or fabric matching the skirt.
Some of these Jackets are cut extreme
ly short all around, showing nearly half
of the lower portion of the pretty
blouse even at the back, and not only
are they cut off at the lower edge, but
low on the shoulders, the blouse giving
the effect there of guimpe. Therefore, if
no revers are used (Which often ac-
company this bit of a French. garmen),
three-Quarters of a yard of material
will complete the entire jacket, tiny
shoulder caps included One single
width cut in two will make the fronts.
Spring jackets are as varied in style
as the little capes and shoulder pele-
rines with and without stole fronts. The
French models appear in three differ
ent lengths, the short, very, jaunty
open-fronted, styles, the closed fly
fronted shapes Of medium outline, and
the longer princesse models, fitting the
figure vefyielose1ys which aTgNsry be-
coming, to tall women of sgopd figure.
These show both high and low collars,
and they are made of covert and box
cloths, melton, serge, cheviot and Ia
dies cloth, in colors both light and
dark, as we'll as in brilliant geranium-
red, black and oyster-white-a tint
with a shading of lightest gray in it.
The Russian style of coat still has a
place on the list, and many of the Par
is-made jackets display bits of dainty
decoration, beside the stitching and
handsome buttons. r.
Large batiste collars in deep yoke
shape with bretelle points extending
down the front to the belt are added
to the waists of some exceedingly chic
and dainty models for genuine sum-
mer gowns of TRANSPARENT materialxIn
dia silk ,brocaded with small exquisite
| BOUQUETS and garlands, and creped fab
RIGS, plain and fancy, The batiste is
of creamy white, edged everywhere
with Valenciennes lace, headed by an
Iinoh-wide row of insertion to, match.
This furnishes the entire. waist garni-
ture of some of the most charming
models as yet exhibited. Guipure laces
are employed upon fancy wraps and
the waists of very. handsome cloth
gowns, but this season, there seems
to be a preference for patterns in finer
meshes, like the English thread, point
for decorating dainty. gowns, neck gar
nitures and choice lingerie.
,..s
T Millinery is undergoing changes many
and various. MASSES of beautiful pink
roses are very fashionable decorations
for sthaf new atoq,les and iround' hats.
Ostrich feathers on front and compact
Fclusters -of. leaffess roses. at the back
Isl a styleTef: trimming, persistently re-
peated s:Crinkledl straws Eand drinkled
chiffon are muoh~fn request. Beside the
roses and delicate spring flowers like
the violet, jonquil and narcissus,
French milhners are using in combin-
alton with velvet in nasturtium shade
the rich, velvety nasturtium blossoms
themselves, which graduate from deep
est-red to tawny brown and shade from
any number of pale yellow and dark
orange tints to the rich mahogany coll
ors.
Marking the Coast Lights.
Miss, Eliza Scott cousin of Admiral