The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-10-16
Fashions FrilIs.

Fashions FrilIs.
New York Times
That most becoming feature Of womens
gowns that has been seen for the past two
years. the blouse effect in the bodice, did
not die this fall, as was predicted The
tight waists came in, to be sure but that
pretty fullness which lent much charm to
the gowns of all kinds of women, with all
kinds of figures, could not be dispensed
with. 1t is to be seen not only in the fash
ion plates which are not always to be de-
pended upon. but also in the newest and
smartest French gowns. All these are remi-
niscent in very many ways. They seem to
be remnants of many old and dear friends,
dear because of their universal becoming
ness, put together.
The tight sleeve is not such a bugbear,
either, as was prophesied. 1t is not SO tight
as the sleeve worn some years ago, and is
so trimmed and tucked and ruffied and
shirred that the slenderest arm appears in
it to advantage. The little cap on the
sleeve Of the greater number of gowns
breaks the shock of the change from the big
puffs to these more moderate garments.
There is nothing seen yet of that skin-tight
hitting sleeve, with nothing to relieve it
over the shoulder, which. used to be in
vogue. 1t occasionally appears on some old
fashioned person in an old-fashioned gar
ment IN the street, and gives a funny but
trim look, which it takes the observer some
time to understand and locate.
The modiSteS have not planned for anna
teur workers this season. Puffings and
shirrings and fine work on chiffon are to
be seen in everything. The necks of some
gowns are filled in with the finest shirred
chiffon and chiffon ruff1es, are ruffled again
with chiffon, or finished with little double
puts. A pretty reception gown of silk has
chiffon sleeves pulled the full length, and
a tiny double ruffie or puff edges the front
panel and runs around the bottom of the
skirt. The chiffon appears on the gown in
no other place. These little finishes of chif-
ron are very pretty around the skirts of
gowns.
There are few kinds of trimming that are
not to be seen this year, and much of the
trimming runs around the skirts and bodices
bayadere fashion. Embroidery is always
chiffon made over white silk has rows of
embroidery in white around the skirt and
the, little, full. round bodice, alternating
with tiny ruffies of the chiffon, and cover
ing it entirely. 1t is very girlish and pretty.
A striking gown which brings out the
popular chenille and the polka dot effect has
pattern of coarse, white net. Black and
white are seen on gown which has the
white for a foundation, some pretty, thin
material, the skirt ruffied half way up and
the remainder trimmed with graduated
bands of black velvet ribbon perhaps two
growing smaller gradually up to the waist,
where they increase in width again up to
Entire gowns of yellow and orange are
seen for evening, and these colors form
parts. of other gowns. There is more en-
broidery to be seen in yellow gown, over
which is white chiffon with tiny yellow
flowers embroidered upon it in soft silk.
| The bias bands of velvet lend themselves
to the crinkled ruff1ed effects to be seen in
| so many things In one costume the over
| skirts and panels are outlined with bias
more appropriately said held little full in
| the sewing, so that 1t has the effect of a
very scant rufTie set into the edge.
| The tiny ruff1eS of chiffon, which are not
| finished with ruff1es, and even some which
are, are edged with tiny bands of ribbon or
velvet. On pink gown the many ruffies Of
| chiffon are edged with narrow pink velvet
with soft and attractive effect.
We'll, that does take neck! woman
exclaimed as she gazed in admirng wonder
at the new and stylish gowns. And they do,
most of these handsome street and house
gowns take a neck. Collars are very
| of the gown or of the trimming. There is
often a soft little fluffy ruching of lace in
| the front and they open in the back where
| there are two points. higher than the body
of the collar, which separate and fall over a
little to make them comfortable. They are
velvet or silk in soft folds outlines the waist,
and is finished at one side with small bow
/ or few loops
The well-remembered surplice front fast
| ening over at one side of the waist is to be
| seen with a knot of velvet or silk as a
| finish. That is another pretty. old fashion,
and with the lace or chiffon vest it is be-
| coming to all styles Of faces and softens the
| plainest.
| A bit of color is brought into a dark gown
| by means of the collar which will be of a
pretty bright velvet, while little piece of
| the same velvet flares and falls over the
| hard
Patterns in jet are very handsome on
| black cloth and velvet gowns, where they
put so heavily that they must add
| much to the weight of the garment. Black
| jet is seen on white, but there it r. put on
| less heavily. Here and there rhinestone
| buckle is seen, enough to show that it is in
| evidence
Beautiful materials are found this year
| for bonnet crowns, spangled and set with
mock jewelry and worked in gold and silver
cord If the jewels and gold on them are
only limitations of the genuine articles the
material is not inexpensive, and a crown
will cost about $40. This seasons hats
show tufts of small ostrich feathers set un-
der the rims. a new feature. but flowers
are still used for the purpose. beautiful
roses of mammoth proportions and in con-
ventional as well as natural colors Grapes
have been attractive for fall wear and
blended well, with many colors used.