New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-05-30
FRENCH FASHIONS FORBIDDEN
WOMEN FOR AND AGAINST BUYING AND
WEARING PARIS GOWNS.
UNWILLING TO PATRoNIzE COUNTRY THAT HAS
MAILGNED AMERIcANs-PRos AND
CONS OF THE CASE.


The argument pro and con in regard TO boy
colt on French importations is going on with great
vigor among fashionable women. The cons con-
tend that the purchases for the season are virtu-
ally made and that It would be act OF injustice
10 American merchants, dressmakers and MIL
liners suddenly TO refuse to buy their merchahdiSe
and the pros vehementy assert that the only
w,v IN do Is TO begin the crusade ut once. to
Iet tho perNdious Gaul see that he has made mis-
take IN calling us pigs and ''canac.' and that
unless he changes his tactics his autumn trade
Will suffer great losses.
In the mean while the summer girl reappears. APP
parently as well gowned ever and to masculine
eyes looking all the sweeter for having designed
ber own costumes, and had them made up either
M home or by "the little dressmaker around the
corner" fact which she dilates upon with great
apparent enjoyment and enthusiastic PATRIOTISM
Notwithstanding the latter sentiment, however
she IS as keen as about French fashions, and
is all the more eager to learn every detail In regard
to the latest styles since she has In measure
given I'D the substance OF these for the shadow.
A great deal Of trimming seems 10 be the prin-
cipal feature Of the newest gowns trimmings some
times becomngly and sometimes most unoecom-
ingly distributed. The tendency Of an over
trimmed waist Is to make its wearer look awk-
wardly high shouldered. II amateur dressmakers
would only remember 10 let clearly cut shoulder
line show above the frou-frou arrangements
in the way OF Jabots, ichus and the startling
~ pronounced bows which now In vogue
It would obviate the difficulty. The new sleeves.
too are covered with trimming. although adjusted
closely to the arm with no fulness at the top to
a pretty way to make the skirt Of a summer
frock Is to It halfway up with inch and-a a
half-deep ruffies material OF the same width being
left between the Iuiies The waist Is sSs sIso
with spaces between Of the same width. the tight
sleeves being covered in the same manner .,..
black net gown made in this manner. with
colored tafreta rufiies, with the hens turned over
on the right side and caught with hidden stitches,
taffeta It makes exceedingly effective and use
fui toilet white monair pre'y ts nen AND
collar OF colored taffeta is another pretty model
a am fois XVI bows With long wavy ends
made OF insertion laid over tafeta or the same
color the empiecement
HATS OFF THE FACE.
Those who have deplored the tip-tilted hats as
being unbecoming will be delighted with the new
shape which IS turned boldly back from the face.
with the brim held in place by an aigrette OF
pumes or flowers. the harshness OF the outlines
being relieved by turblnlike folds Of tule or some
other thin material This style suits certain types
with n low-necked blouse. which be worn with
cnplecements of different coors. IS one OF the most
useful gowns for traveller. as II Is easily adapted
for table dh6te. street or evening wear. FOR
these gowns small tucks are better than ruhies
arranged IN groups. as they are on childs cam
with The small tucklng Some OF the sleeve trim
mngs are most ingenious. and the dressmakers
seem Vie with each other In nventing new IDEAS
one effective way Of arranging sleeve when tho
rest OF the gown IL trimmed with ribbon or velvet
Is TO run stripes OF the latter half an Inch apart,
the length OF the sleeve and to within about 1--WE
inches OF the shoulder. Here the stripes end with
a loop and a button. and at the wrist. where the
! loops extend the edge. they make the eX-
tension which seems essential now to every new
Another sleeve has a mousse" OF tiny mousseline
d" sole ruffes the top. extending down for sew
eral inches from the shoulder. over the edge OF
this is drawn the sleeve. made OF the material OF
the gown This is cut higher one side than on
the other and is finished with three scalops. two
diasonal bands OF ribbon forming a V. and are tied
/ into a bow. At the hand the same scheme is car
and the ribbons St another pattern has a
rufie u mousseine de sole inserted In the outside
seam of the tight sleeve this extends the entire
I length OF the arm. running around the top IN
three rows. These tiny mousseline de sole rutffes
/ forming mousse on the sleeves. seem to be the
''dcrnier cri." and certainly with fouard silks
/ nothing could be preftier in the way OF trimming.
\ great variety of methods are employed to give
the desired fulness TO the bottom OF the skirts
the upper part cannot be too tight-htting. II
seems almost mpOss BILE TO gore out skirt sufii-
ciently TO give the flare required, so number OF
new ideas have been introduced. one OF the
prcttiest effects In this material Is made by putting
an accordion pleated fan at the bottom. between
each breadth The deep adjusted hounce IL the
easiest way OF faring "A skirt. Another graceful
nounce no longer called by IT'S obnoxious name Is
however. a popular az ever. proving the saying
that ~ by any other name would smell as
sweet