The San Francisco call., 1898-05-08
Hints for the Business Womanfor Summer Weather Wear.
1NS s TT promises to be an unusually NN hot, dusty summer, with war and


 A hot, dusty summer, with war and mo, 4 \ hard times, the small economies
 will be great necessities.
 There are many new fabrics shown ; this year in cotton and linen which, made without lining or trimming. will be very light and cool and not affected by the dust.
 The skirts should be cut gored with straight width joined to q bias one, ana all the seams tailor stitched to wide tape on the under side to prevent stretch ing when laundered. The bottoms should be faced with the same material instead of hemmed. In making up cotton or linen it should be soaked for ten minutes in warm strong salt and water, which will both shrink and set the color and prevent the desire to tear. ones hair when the skirt or shirt waist first comes home from the laundry.
 The sailor hat. which promises to be- come more popular than ever before, can be made less severe by using facing of satin as nearly possible the shade of the warm tints in the hair, or if preferred the same shade as the eyes. Use very heavy, glossy satin put on perfectly smooth. If the brim of the hat is double, as it is in most good sailors, rip the two portions apart and slip the satin be- tween. In bands velvet is more becoming than ribbon. By making band carefully and poining 1t under the bow with one half-inch of elastic it can be slipped off and on and different ones to match the tie or waist adjusted as easily as the hat itself.
 Ties are so easy to make it is sur prise that any one with a slender purse will pay 25 up to 50 cents for one she could make in ten minutes for half the price.
 For lining use the double faced cotton flannel; it costs a shilling a yard and you will require yard and one-eighth. Lining from old tie is just as good. Use rib bon, closely woven; stitch it up on the wrong side and turn 1t with a lead pencil, and then slip the lining inside. using a hairpin for needle; press and finish the ends and you have tie you can wash all summer.
 A neat way of making stock to be worn without the starched collar during the warm weather is to baste footing on to the middle Of ribbon about a yard and half long, so that it will form a ruching. Tie the ends in the usual four in-hand knot or in a bow with haring ends. To keep these in place and not have them wilt, take a very fine piece of hat wire, double it and twist the rough ends together so they will come under the center of the bow knot, leaving the ends pulled apart to hold the bow out at the sides.
 A new veil, or, rather, one of very old style revived, is yard and a half to two yards long, with a lace edge and deep bordered ends. Crossed at the back of the hat it is held in place by a fancy pin and the ends brought under the chin and tied in a bow which must stand out at right angles to the ends To keep it on the brim in front, sew 1t into a small knot, and 1t will stay in place without the pin, which is so out of place. As it is very expensive, it requires care to keep it in order
 To clean it, let it soak a few minutes in a small quantity of gasoline. Change the gasoline till it is perfectly clear. Shake the veil out well and pin it on pillow 1af rdf1 in fnf.f Ion, as It must not be ironed. A quarters worth of gasoline bought any place but drugstore will clean veil half dozen times.
 GF HE old-fashioned bar pin is here
 with again. We have had so
 many stickDins-round, oval and
 fancy shaped-from which to make a selection for the last few years that the bar pin. so dear to- every womans heart. was relegated to back seat, so far as popularity went.
 This style of pin is much more con- venient than the more graceful and smaller brooch of fanciful design which succeeded it and has held its own for so long, but whether the revival of the bar pin presages the revival of the low col lar and fancy laced trimmed dress neck is something which just at this stage cannot be positively stated.
 When the dresses were cut low and round in the neck or had collar bands of, the dress material, and were disfgured with rows of closely set buttons, the bar pin was a necessity to keep the neck properly and neatly closed. Then when the fashion of collars-straight, stiff linen collars-came in, with all the attendant scarfs, cravats. bows and ties, the bar pin was no longer necessity, but su- per1uity and it's successor, the now fa- miliar stick pin. came in for it's share Of popularity.