The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-09-11
e-xs4RONomrO MorHh.

made tho slightest advance over that for which
the eighteenth century Ia so famoua. During
the first three decades Of the present century
the traditions Of the culinary art were main
tanned by a group OF exceptionally gifted cooks.
Their disappearance and the decline Of the
French cuisine were coincidapt. The latter IL
replaced by q school that ignores classi-
cal formulas and in which, individual Inn
pulse takes the place Of conservative adher-
ence to well-established rules. Whether this
be 4 gain or a loss none OF the present
generation In competent to speak, What we
know Of the culinary art Of the early yekfs Of
the century is derived from record and not
from personal experience. II is asserted that
our forefathera were addicted to gluttony.
This accusation has It's origin in the fact that
early In the century only one substantial meal
was eaten during the twenty-four hours. This
one was Of immense proportions. Just rs much
food ls consumed by tho single individual in
these days as In the past. II not moro. Now.
however. three. four. or Ave daily repasts take
the. place OF one most substantial. Breakfast
i1 the ne, early days ~ the century consisted only
81 diEISSdll ' es snd Men eTflf isnS or tea np sad a p ssnSGWlchs.
and women, oither ip their own apart;
9 %e mIsdS or m In the 3; co Sl55ay SbTGken room vine S snd
C SSttsT; o TSs we'll "a ad T : before ssfHS; tie he I g5 :
M %a dsa H%en ,SsrG Por fSe qiIssEnRRp q 81" The Dt otRRer
meals. Lord Beaconsleld. in an accounto OF one
on the occasion an immense. tureen OF potdoe
ropdl. In which a boned duck wac floating. q
h h RrSn 1S1 Sst pafs. fla 6sn nsde by 81 a lSE Gi mutt SIse sna
and rabbits. embalmed In spices and garnishcd
with cocss' combs and savory halls. the whole
sweet herbs. Such a concoction served at a meal
at the present day would excite disgust. i is
the close Of the century shows marked advance.
The tendency. while ample satisfaction g &C;
sTrssn 80 In IN s Eating. Dishes EI es' are i served sed' IN IN
small portions and IN an agreeable and decora-
ttvsd f is No % ionrsT tSe a fashion, eS ~ esrIv Ie t hSs
century. when, $500 was not infreouently maid
for a dinner 2f eight parsons. whose GIGANTIC
humble Of courses provided.
E. V. Lucas. in a philosophical article in
Lonoman's Magazine. entitled Concerning
Breakfasts" asserts that those who take that
meali in sunny rooms. with windows leading to
the lawn. are the true aristocrats. There
should he always a fire In the CRATE in the
breakfast room. even in summer. Under these
conditions the meal. he says. is urbane and
mellowinR. It enables one to collect ones
philosophy and store cheerfulness for the day.
1t predicates q well-ordered morning and a
reposeful afternoon. 1t is. in short. the keynote
OF the day. Mr.. Lucas IL much grieved thatmos
Of US approach breakfast and consume 1t in a
p6IIunCIOTy way III IdHpS anu WiIIl dDSeuVe VI
enjoyment. makingi ia routine renast squeezed
between sleep and business. Although he does
s sGs af Fnew aeS ea Of the CHAINS SlTss f Of br nai GfnsE
he. evidently has In mind commuters or sub
urban d.,' resid dents vi. When ; he he s So ak of Of those y, who yho
locomotive and only. on Sundays can eniov the
neal Even that 10y is chilled hy the spectre Of
looks upon. reading at breakfast as a sort
Of dcseSrntion; Wien a npmheI OF persons
stT PEsseo Of s so epi men mor rSoak he co 1e-
siders this habit in its nathologtcal as
onCsii is alone 4 e9 IS no at eom 6pHfiTEenftf to f fTe cook %nea a
newspaper, is an insult. The latter is only
beneftto the doctor, for when ",one, is put of
the ne search for items 81 i%iSSterTest, the wny IS
made easy for the approach q dysrepsla." Mr..
tion al. breakfast. trivial and sporadic non;
sense; .scranss from Letters puns. dreams. and
He Is disposed. to accept with reserva-
r. Ts ; xnrns s ssSD1a e Ss,I tsl1 them SoRsa 1a't9 MSlIs
every on, - p%nnctuai at breakfast. He
is particuiaTly severe pPpn those .oc who
WHO are out by daybreak putting on the lawn.
they have made before, others are up. Mr..
Lucas looks upon oatmeal at breakfast Us the
other dish. as those that put salt il 4 are the
scorn Of those that take sugar. II Mr.. Lucas
E Teaiaas i]n %sat he a nFfi f { 8, Ritta sTss for tSe is sn a
wary partaker thereof.
The making OF candied peel or what we call
citron is q complicated process. A correspond
emit in Italy of The Table in London gives an
account of a visit to a factory devoted to this in
dustry. The fruit from which the finished
product is made is very like a large lemon eight
or ton pounds in weight. 1t grows in groves in
Corsica and Calabria upon trees about six feet
in height. The first process Ia to cut the fruit
carded. The peeTis then sealed in barrels Of
salt water for two or three weeks. It Il then
withdrawn and soaked for twenty-one. days n
parts Of sugar to twenty Of water until the final
one contains twenty parts Of sugar to one Of
in n nnmherof large caldrons, where It, sim
mers for twenty-four hours: When cool II is
snd eoofe GD g tEIr 2Ff tIm %isT W Epffsn s stX'T1pRR ot E IS
packed IN wooden hoxns. in which 1t r. sold by
EE en Tesrs. al HS " GfhH1 the Kew fre sFGsre L IS S, tbe ef letter 1%r
+ caused y tSe soaEiSs, + !, ssait water; TTSo
hundred people are employed In the factory.
The women receive 10 cents a day.
1t will cause distress to Prohihitionists to
give the theory Of the celebrated DR.. Mortimer
Granville, a modern authority, that two ounces
OF alcohol daily is necessary to support the in
ternal organs Of man against the unnatural
conditions OF civilized life. That this theory is
more than cheerfully accepted and individual
proportions gladly exceeded is revealed in a
report Of Mr.. Bateman of the English Board OF
Trade. It will cause surprise to learn that the
Great Britain than IN Germany. The proper
head. against 255 gallons for Germany. OF
wine only oneihalf gallon a heak Is consumed
France. ITALY and Spain drink 2N.50 gallons ner
canita. The British have lahored heretofore
under the delnsiop that they enjoyed the dis
its. This claim Is shattered by Mr.. Bateman.
Although Great Britain has the powerful as
Cow. whose citizens, rs for as they are visible,
seem to be unanimously in a favorable stage ~
Of spirits TO the individual Is only OF gallons,
rs against 1,a5 gallons in France and ;o4 in
world are the Bavarians. They drink per capita
nifty gallons Of beer yearly. while the Beleiaps
S SnS %SoGten. T With the % g d, It, I tSe SrnSf Of tGjnly