The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-12-19
WOMAN'S WORLD.
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A correspondent writes to ask;-alI you
had to be economical this winter anu
could only get one good gown WHAT eoioi
would you have that gown?
Now, my dear friend. no matter no"
rich or economical, ! would never
get more than one good gown.
An women observe this economy
today even in the fasniondele
sets. OF course, they have other peaut'-
ful house gowns and theatre froeks ana
bah gowns, according to their money ana
their popularity, but the one good clotn
gown which serves for almost everything
is the standby of well dressed women
today.
| know a girl very well who mas sz'oVo
a year to dress on, n l have yet to
find her havin more than one good cloth
gown a season.
1t is true that she puts $125 in that one
cloth gown, but she wears 1t for every
thing.
The secret of being well dressed today
is to put your money in one thing ana
wear it out.
nave probably preached This practice
very often to you, but do you remember
what Mr.. Dana, of the New York sur
used to say, when asked why he repeat
ed certain things? IF you say a wise
thing once people may forget, but if you
say it every day they never forget it; you
never let them forget il"
I, for one, despise a made-over gown;
1 believe every woman does, and it ID
only when one is in the most straitened
circumstances that one processes to think
it is as good as a new gown,
l dc not mind a made-over gown a bit
for any house or evening affair, but |
mean your walking tailor gown with its
silk shirt waists and its buttoned up
revers with a fur collar for the street.
When you wear that gown a season, and
then begin to tinker with it, it somehow
never seems to be a frst-elass gown.
If you buy two gowns, you will get tired
of them both at the end of the season,
and you Will feel that YOU must at least
keep on wearing one of them.
1 think sensible women are learning to
get one gown and wear it until it is alb
soiutely ~threadbare, which it is in a sea-
sons constant wearing, then shake
hands with their conscience, and either
sell it for a small sum or put it ava and
get another gown.
No women take this economy of the
cities SO much te heart as the women of
the provinces. They are in touch with
each other so much that they feel that
they must lend variety to their e~lotaes.
The women of the cities do not care FOR
variety; it is the uniform of their fash
ionabie positions and they wear tbs
same gown for best during the season.
This is a depression from the question
asked me, but I do not believe it comes
in amiss.
Now as to the vital point of my core
spondent's query. I answer, get a black
cloth gown. / asked leading tailors and
dressmakers this morning what would De
their advice to a woman who had little
money and wanted to look always well,
and yet not conspicuous; a woman who
lives in a small town and goes out a good
deal.
The consensus of opinion was what I
nave given you; a black cloth gown.
There never was a time, I have found out
from those people, that black was so
cherished. Every one from the debutaate
up is wearing it.
To outline such a gown, I would sug-
gest that you get a black fine serge. or
broadcloth, or the new sun-cloth which
has a sheen upon it. Get a good skirt
pattern, if you are not going TO have it
made by a dressmaker; a skirt pattern
which has the narrow hips and the far
ing hem. 1t is equally fashionable to put
on a shaped fiounce.
Line the gown with a bright lining. do
not line a black with black. unless you
are in mourning. To begin with black
taffeta does not wear like the colored
taffetas. I should make a blouse or a
Jacket that can be buttoned over any
kind of waist, and in that way you get
your variety.
If you make a plain bodice trimmed
in whatever way you wish, you will al
ways have the same thing, but if you
make half bodice and half jacket. and
wear it over a silk shirt waist, you can
ring the changes for every affair from a
linen shirt waist in the morning to a
white satin lace covered shirt waist for
afternoon teas. and a dark blue or purple
shirt waist for church.
I should suggest a braiding on the
skirt. and if you are an expert you can
do it yourself without calling in a dress
maker.
The very newest idea in braiding that
] got from a Leading tailor of the city
is that made of black fiat braid edged
on the sides. at a little space, with SOU
tache- None of the braid is close in de-
sign. For instance, sweeping around the
bottom of skirt are four large maltese
crosses or q heroic Greek border of
squares W feet in height.
| will give You an exclusive design of
a gown which is doming from a leading
t%ailor's. which, it is true, is expensive.
but can be followed by any one who has
taste.
The suit is of black broadcloth lined
with a geranium red, the skirt is cut
very narrow on the hips. laced up the
back with a silk cord, and iaring at the
feet It is quite long, lying two inches
on the ground at the back. The Jacket
goes only to the hips. and is scalloped
around the bottom, edged with fiat braid
and soutache together.
The reyers are lined with the red silk.
they button over almost to the neck or
they roll back to the waist and show
the silk shirt waist.
The seams of the jacket are outlined
with the fat braid and a band of SOU
tache on either side. The gown is essen
TALLY good taste and is one Of the most
exclusive designs of the season.
The touch Of lining on the revers gives
a dash of color that brings out the COM
plexion, and the beauty of This yown 10