Omaha daily bee., 1898-08-28
SEPTEMBER FASHION SIGNS.
EiOquent Indications Of the Trend OF
- Autumn Styles.

NEW YORK, Aug 26.-This Is the time
OF the year when every new garment a well
dressed woman wears is significant OF the
future, and September signs are In the air.
BY next week all the buyers will be crowd
ing home from Paris, telling tales OF every
fresh enterprise in woolen clothes, coats
and hats, etc. Even now there is a revival
Of custom and interest all along the counters
of the big shops. and in the water color
sketches. that the buyers always send on
before them from Paris, most interesting
fortunes IN finery can be told. Looking over
a dozen Of these pretty pictures any one
would promptly catch the suggestion that
fringes and fichus will be among the most
we'll defined features Of autumnal splendor
Evening and calling gowns and tailor suits
all display some phase or another Of that
graceful shoulder drapery that folds kerr
chiefwise over the bust.
Protean Fashion.
This is a diversion Of fashion in which
women stout and thin can alike participate
and with equal advantage. and the recalling
of the fchu to its old-time honorable estate
is an excellent means Of bringing into evil
dence fine old laces and embroidered muslin
that has been worked by hand in distant
and more artistic day. '''' '.''''''
On evening dresses the fchu is quite
Protean in it's variety Of shades. 1t may be
q scarf of precious old lace drawn rather
close about a corsage cut low, that is after
the court model. on the shoulders and knot
ting in a soft bow on the bust or it can
be stretch Of Liberty silk, drawn up and
fastened on the left shoulder with jeweled
pins. Women who possess pretty sloping
shoulders love to wear small three corr
nered Bit drawn rather, close and the ends
knotted small at the waist line, while one Of
generous proportions prefers the fichu that
floats in front, long and free from the
shoulder line.
AS a matter Of fact by a discreet use Of
the flchu a woman can give her figure just
what lines and proportions she needs. BY
drawing 1t taut or letting it fall full, she
can conceal or reveal all she pleases, and
for this reason. the fichu front, Is unfailingly
noted on nine. out. Of ten Of the autumn
models in cloth. The fronts of such suits
are for slender woman made full on the
shoulder, or under the arm they cross In
suave line and fold over the bust, high up
or low down, in order to reveal beneath the
chin rounded or pointed vest Of some soft
contrasting goods. Occasionally one side OF
this drapery passes down to the left hip and
from there lets fall a long and q short
sash end upon the skirt.
The Cravat Fichu.
Equally as pleasing is the tiny cravat
fichu that is adopted with the wonderful
and hitherto unseen striped cloths for winter
and autumn wear. Fancy, II you can, a
wine red cloth, finely barred in black satin
stripes The waist of this buttons up we'll
over the bust. but springs open on the chest
IN two small revers. They disclose an inner
vest OF rucked silk, a high collar Of white
III H. a.
from any severity OF line, a kerchief Of bis
cult -cOlpred lace. edginS wisp Of similarly
colored silk lawn, passes about the neck,
the bust. letting a couple of lace ends Of
uneven lengths fall even below the waist
line. .'..'' ...'.. ....''
On certain; percentage Of cloth suits
hat-shaped' fchu pieces win fold down from
the shoulder. These will be overlaid with
lace on white satin, be made wholly Of
embroidered silk, or Of the plain cloth 1t.
self bordered with silk fringe. One end
carried far down and low under the. arm
will fasten there with three large fine but
tons and the V-shaped space they leave
open under the chin will be ornamented in
divers ways.
> Laces Are Conspicuous.
sential to give some recognition of the laces
that on vests and the hchus Of day gowns.
and In the trimming OF evening costumes,
will be more than ever conspicuous for the
next six months. To begin at the be-
ginning, biscuit tint is the choice for the
approaching season If new lace is worn.
This is a soft, rosy cream tone that har-
monies deliciously with all the latest gas
light colors. There is also old lace color,
but this so often degenerates into tone Of
dirty tea brown that the first mentioned
dye Is preferred.
In spite OF the charms Of the ever lovely
point de Venice, species Of pretty cut
out point Is guaranteed to achieve a fine
place for itself and the waved antique
Valenciennes and Valenciennes incrustation
Sa going to predominant on the toilets for
debutantes. There is also a new applique
lace called ruby point which in reality is
pale ivory ecru In tone. Ruby, point II
worked in as heavy pattern as Russian or
Renaissance lace,H while an attractive but
rather startling variety Of weave Ia coarse
black. ecru or biscuit colored net, adorned
ina Persian pattern, carried out exclusively
ID dull gold and silver thread. Orient
yelling one hears 1t nominated, and for a
while 1t is sure TO maintain a right royal
poelpl0n, t0r only q little has been i'm.
ported, and that commands a price exclusive
to all Of moderate means Oriental veiline
Ia easily initiated in cheap net and gilt and
at:once 1t will fall. when vulgarized. from
III, high estate. y
80 Fall Feathers.
Those who are reading signs and wonderi
onsthe new horizon of fashion will not fai
ID observe few first millinery indications
Of . degree Of Importance. For instance, 1
does not take great perspicacity to decide
that feathers will get a big share of fal
patronage. Whether complete stuffed fowl
are going to be sacrificed again to feminine
vanity one dares not yet say. but fans o
stin feathers will adorn the big new toques
This denotes that 1t is the spreading tail
not the wing Of the bird, that Is wante,
and plumage, handsomely marked with eye
and spots, Is the most desired.
AS never before in point Of perfect tin
and Arm or ragged shape are they, makin
autumn leaves for adorning the first hats O
IMPERIAL hair ca-,