The times., 1898-04-24

Masses Of heliotrope are lavished artisti-
caily with Violets and lilacs on q mauve
frame while hyacinths forget-me-nots
and turquoise pins adorn a blue shape. A
suggestion for the amateur hat trimmer
is given by pretty little lilac shape
adorned with a great handkerchief OF Law
ender silk muslin, edged about its four
sides with yiolets sewed on close but
irregularly, stems and alI-the stems was
the only contrasting tone in this chrOmat-
&c scale OF pale purples, and the kerchief
was knotted about the hats crown with
careless grace.
Another sweet green thing was trimmed
with a few yards of verdant taffeta rib
bon edged with white violets the maker
had whipped on, and instead of sewing
the decorations to the frame this re-
sourceful amateur adjusted silk muslin
and ribbon by means of cheap little pearl
headed pins.
The peacock IS bird Of but sad and
sober plumage beside the flashing color
and dazzling scintillatlons of the woman
who is arrayed for a Spring in span
giles is not yet fun, 50 that excepting
the white gowns treated with black lace
appliques or those Of black treated with
white, a majority of eight out of ten
evening toilets are spangled from toe to
shoulder straps. The small fiat sequin
is not any longepThe only kind used for
the newest are ring and oval spangles,
worked in with the disk in most compli-
Gated patterns. and Just now the whole
effort is after japanese designs.
A black net petticoat, showing cycle
moon on the front breadth, toward
which, from all parts of the duslsy
skirt, black and silver bats are flying, IS
almost a conventional pattern, so re-
markable are some of those we see.
One adorable white tulle creation was,
for example. most wondrouSly worked, in
all its mistlike labyrinth of fullness, with
twinkline schools Of bright little fish,
flashing blue, gold, silver and green in
the gastlight. Not less remarkable and
alluring was a toilet Of turquoise blue
gauze, In the lower left-hand side OF
which in front of the skirt, few bird
Of gorgeous metallic blue palettes. The
remainder of the petticoaJ was illumi-
mated with gold and black arrows shot
through the mesh of the drapery in
showers toward the glittering fowl.
With such skirts as these similarly
spangled or fiower-draped bodies are
worn. The last mentioned IS the latest
arrival at the court Of fashion. A flower
body is first built up from close decol-
lete basque OF satin that hooks together
at the back. over this net is draped
and on the net flowers are sewed. Small
flowers and fine leaved vines such as
violets. fOrgetmenots, speedwell, hya-
cinth bells, heath etc, are adapted TO
this purpose. To the skirts, chiefly in
black and white the flowers give ! deli
cate and grateful tone Of color.
With such suits as we have dwelt upon,
long gloves are worn in rarest tints Of
mauve and pearl pink. shy gray and tour
maIine green. At the tops of the long
arm bags there IS now a pretty fancy
for gathering fun Pierrot frills, an inch
or two deep. Of white tulle and specl1ing
them with spangles. But the tangent to
which sleeves have momentarily run, is
that Of wearing a spangled lace arm
bag extending from the wrist TO within
about three or four inches Of the should
er-htted straps attach these TO the
shoulder and short gloves are necessa-
rily worn.
For illustrations Of these truths about
evening gowns readers can scan the ac-
companying sketch OF three evening toll
cts They are replete with informs ton
for the seeker after knowledge on various
points Their trains are long, and that
one giving . side view is soft mauve
net over heROtrope satin. IN gold span
giles on the mauve skirt a great sunburst
is spread, it's wrinkled rays flashing 10
all parts Of the petticoat. The bodice is
Of mauve net fairly well covered with
trails OF arbutus.
The gown, OF which a front view is
given, illustrates an application of white
lace on black silk muslin. Here and there
black spangles are spTinlted on the skirt
and waist. but are thickly strewn on the
glove sleeves Of black. girdle of black
satin deep behind, narrow in front and
crossed with many rhinestone slides,
lends brilliancy TO this study in black
and white
The rear view of a black tulle costume,
Frightening with black paittes, is given in
the third figure. The bodice is distin-
guished by an introduction of rose-colored
chiff about the top, while over one
shoulder passes a fitted strap, over the
other n shower of pink roses.
A summer ball wrap is worn by the sin
gle figure this week. A Partisan creation
this. with fits vast, majestic collar of black
ostrich plumes and showers of pissed
gold-colored chiffon falling out from be-