The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1898-05-02


tions, follows. Yours culinarily.
COMFORT JONES.
Doctor OF Cookery.
We have now reached the time when
we must consider the next course in our
dinner, and will treat of the meats.
Usually, among cooks, meats are divid-
ed into threA classes. and known as
Relieves, Entrees and Roasts." The
former name is applied to large pieces
of meat only, roasted or baked and al
ways served entire. This course only
appears at great dinners. and does not
call for further attention at this time.
The entrees include meats. carved, as
rule. before being cooked. broiled. roast
ed. baked boiled or stewed. are always
served with sauce and some vegetable
or vegetables as garnish. Entrees are
essentially family dishes. and can be
eaten by almost any family. because Of
ten cheaply prepared, although they al
ways form a part of every set dinner.
You all know what roasts are: how they
fill a place after the entrees on bill OF
fare.
1 suppose you never would forgive me
II did not give you at the very outset
my way of cooking tenderloin of beef.
with mushrooms. because everybody
seems to think the dish an essential to
a good dinner. Now. without wishing to
destroy any Of your idols. let me say
that the tenderloin is the dryest and
most tasteless piece of beef you can buy,
and is only extra good when larded, or
saturated with butter. and served with
a sauce that adds to IL essentially. For
this reason, tenderloin, with mushrooms,
small peas or something else. almost al
ways appears. but seldom tenderloin
alone, standing upon it's own merits.
Tenderloin may be cooked entire or cut
into fillets. If cooked entire 1t must be
well covered with slices OF fat, salt pork
or bacon. but otherwise prefer to keep
1t dry. Indeed, as a general rule, people
too often steam piece Of beef which
they really intend to roast. No matter
what kind of beef you have, put II In
pan, the bottom of which has been well
sprinkled with flour, and in no case add
-four, salt. pepper or water to the meat
Salt and other seasoning causes the
juices to escape. and they, collecting in
the bottom OF the pan. create a steam
that spoils your roast. Another thing
in general: have your oven hot when
the roast is put in, 80 that it will be i'm
mediately scared over.
But prefer tenderloin in fillets, and
/ suggest you try the following: Slice
the tenderloin about one inch thick,
place it In shallow stewpan or frying
pan. with three tablespoonfuls of butter,
and brown for five or ten minutes; then.
removing to a dish, place in a warm. not
not, place. Now add to the pan one-half
can of mushrooms (sliced), with their
own juice, one tablespoonful flour; let
brown awhile and pour over the steak.
II you prefer to roast the tenderloin,
you may do SO in the manner suggested
above, and make the sauce by the adj
dition of -four and mushrooms. just as
you do when cooking the filiets. IL the
sauce is not sufficiently brown, use car
amel, as suggested in one of my first
letters for coloring soup stock.
With your tenderloin you will want
some other dish, and why not have
stuffed tomatoes. Try this recipe for
preparing them:
Six tomatoes. twelve mushrooms, one
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, two
tablespoonfuls bread crumbs, half cup
full finely chopped cooked chicken, salt
and pepper to taste; the tomatoes should
be good-sized. fully ripe and solid; re-
move a small circular piece from the top
of each and take out the seeds carefully
so as not to spoil the shape or firmness
of the tomatoes; cut the mushrooms in
pieces with IA silver knife, mix with
chicken; add the other ingredients; mix
well; fill tomatoes.
In my next / will give you more re-
cipes for.entrees and less general sug-
gestions. We have established the
foundation, and may now go hastily for
ward. Cordially.
LOUIS ROLE.