Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-04-23

~ For the short baSqued coat, or as all
alternative, for something reminiscent of a
mans frock coat. ri'." ~-
In other words, the tailor dress has
bl oxen bounds IT. has demanded larger
liberty in matters great and small, and the
verge, Of license.i Once the shaped founce
was cor coded. there remained no possibIl-
ity Of making a stand. Pipings. strap
pings. piped strappings and narrow hens
were brought out in bewildering number
of pcrmutations and combinations on the
chance that concessions along legitimate
lines might check the revolt. But all early
tenets Of simplicity and severity have been
ruthiessly overridden and even now it is
not certain that with the last pleasing ex-
travagances of cut, construction and cob
webby decoration halt mas been called.
A directoire" tailor dress seems more
CT less of an anomaly, but to that. among
other things. we have come; narrow tunics
collars completed by "grandfathers' frills
or lace, large buttons of an eccentric order,
pink muslin and tulle ruches, fourier
skirts-as If three were not an elegant suf-
nciency-and sleeves cut in eight pieces to
fit skin-tight are only a few of the up to-
cate tailor gowns attractions.
A Stunning Gown.
A strictly cons .rvative tailor costume,
judging from an eminent example turned
smooth fawn cloth. n fiounce, from knee
to hem. shows not On of fullness, but
lends certain sweeping grace to the skirt
and to the narrow train. A delicate silk
braiding forms q double line down each
side of the front, Stimulating the familiar
polonaise The bodice shows a zouave eff
feet of old Damas Lth embroidery, blending
many colors. Tues, over with pale yell
lew lace. 1t opens u pear shape upon a
tuSked and feather-laj ched vest of yellow
mousseiine de sole. The eight-piece sleeves
are piped with black and end in bell cuffs
nhed with yellow. picture hat Of fine
PACK straw trimmed with many feathers
Is demanded to complete this tailor gown"
Less conservati"' but still erring. If at
al, on the safe side is a costume which
inquired rev days ago at gathering Of
women called together to discuss tea and
tailor dresses at an establishment noted
LOT supplying both in perfection. This sec
cnd dress Is OF pale mushroom cloth, and
Is cut with three-tier skirt, the different
levels being emphasized by rows of con-
sI.cuous. and, in English phrase, "convinc-
iLg black and white silk gallon. The
bodice Is Enthusiastically cut zouave edged
Ing wide upon tucked chemisette of white
lace and chiffon.
The Large Collar.
The vogue Of the large collar was many
times illustrated at a morning meeting held
by one or the womans clubs yesterday. A
dress or the new shade of blue-green, of
"hlch there has been an Eruption within
week or two. had deep shaded flounce
set on with a piping of velvet of a stronger
tone. The coat was O fashioned with a
BASQUE SO short as scardely to count in the
enough to make up; big enough to be a
CAPE practically, Instead Of a collar. 1t
was nearly square. of ivdry-white cloth and
was hemmed about with velvet The coat
opened to show white. silk-patterned
gauze vest. and was decoratively treated
on both sides with old silver buttons.
A collar still more pronounced appeared
upon dress Of another new blue, per-
rect indigo. The material in this case was
cashmere. the bodice a closed Elton pro-
tected by cape. a .coilar-call 1t what you
Hke-coming well over the shoulders and
well down the fronto the waist. A slight
ly rolled collar Of hemstitched white satin
was the neck finish, Atoque Of blue and
white chenille-spotted tulle, plumed with
white ostrich feathers. was worn with this
costume. 20 II
Extreme In Cut.
Probably the frock coat tailor dress rep
resents the present extreme of eccentricity
as to cut. though it Is far from doing so as
to elaboration. It Is prophesied that the
three-quarter length coat or basque will
increase and multiply. At present the
species is not numerous 1t is represented
mainly by the frock coat In checked ma
terfais; have seen it in small check of
gray and orange. the coat plain as to its
skirts, but pluming itself upon small vest
fronts OF gray cloth adorned with the en-
lnenuy useless but sometimes decorative
gut button. The standing collar was faced
with orange velvet and the usual chiffon
vest was observable.
One Of the best ''directolfe'' dresses
nave noticed was OF "harebell blue" cloth,
cut with a long redingote. The seams. the
bottom OF the skirt, the sides, the collar