New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-10-02
LATEST FRENCH CREATIONS
HERE ARE SOME NEW DEGREES BY
DAME FASHION.
THINGS WHICH ILLUSTRATE THE FACT THAT
PAQUiN's BRAIN HAS NOT BEEN IDLrNG
DURING THE SUMMER.

PAQuiN'S BRAIN HAS NOT BEEN lDLfNG
DURING THE SUMMER.
Ruffes founces. ruches insertions! More ruff
nes ruches hounces and insertions. Then embroid-
cries ribbons. laces and transparencies galore!
Such Is fashionable gown OF the period The
elaboration is something to wonder at: and not only
are all these divers kinds OF trimming put on one
gown. but they applied in fantastic patterns
and elaborate designs. at the same time conform
Ing to the lines Of the figure with perfect smooth
one might have thought last season that the
elaboration OF trimming and the odd combination
OF materials would go no further; but this winters
CONNECTIONS even more fearfully and wonder-
fully made than those Of year ago. inexperienced
dressmakers have a difficult task 10 keep mp to the
fashion.
typical gown OF the period Is a red taneta- Inc
INNER part OF the skirt has deep pointed yoke OF
fine tucks: this comes a strip Of wide black
chanty Insertion over white mousseline de sole.
This follows the point OF the yoke and Is bordered
on either side with narrow ruchng OF white
mousseline de sole Then there is strip OF the
pleated taffea the same width the Insertion;
another point OF insertion. and another OF the
tucked taffeta. and finally one Of chantlly. Below
this three accordion peated ruffes OF the tar
The bodice is a short open boero OF the pleated
tafreta edged with the chantilly insertion and the
narrow ruching which opens over blouse OF
white moussene de Sole completely covered with
horizontal lines Of the narrow ruching
The upper part OF the sleeve is of tucked taffeta
the tucks running around the arm and the lower
part consists OF three rows of the broad chantuy
insertion. separated. and edged with narrow ruch-
THE CUTAWAY COAT.
From Paauin comes one Of those ught-htung cut
away coats with long tails made Of putty-coiored
cloth and worn with vest OF the same color ana
material the latter being also tight-htung ana
long although no, so long the coat. 1t Is cut
IN two scallops. The coat has the revers and hish
turned-oyer collar Of red cloth, with cuffs OF the
same
The distinctive quality Of these new coats is the
absolute smoothness of the I'll over the hips h'
without a wrinkle. but at the same time comfort
ably loose cut which seems Impossible TO any
but the most skilful taors. They are literally
"swallow-tails." having the long smooth sweep
.ba, reminds one OF the folded wings OF the BIRD
showing at times the rich lining underneath. wh'cn
is usually OF light broCade.
A new gown which has great chic Is MADE OF
light green cloth and gace taffeta OF the same
tint plain bell-shaped skirt and pialh' per
fectly citing somewhat hloused bodice with 'sn'
sleeves -nily gathered the top, are first made
OF the tGi
over the sHirt is second skirt OF the cioth. cut
ND on either side OF the front breadth to within
three inches OF the waist. and then rounded and
cut down again. leaving n space OF ABOUT TWO
inches open to show the tafieta
The tablier front Is exauisitely embroidered with
a running design in white and green SILK, inter-
mingled with gold thread This design turns over
the rounded top OF the opening and continues down
the back portion of the skirt and around the hem'
tt. drapery on the waist Is charming II is cut
up in a rounded point in front. the opening being
.baned like n peasant's bodice belt and showing
the taffeta underneath It is cut down on the neck
from the shoulders. also In point. and IN oeep
V under the arms. below which the funess OF the
cloth is draped and fitted As the edges Of hT Se
various coats all embroidered IKE the skI' ny
drapery OF the waist is practically coNereu VIII"
fine art needlework 80, o.o.
lovely Paquin especially Gemgh's uis street
Costumes s' made Of this textile are most attractive
One built of his favorite dark red is trHine' oNS
The Jacket is a combination of double breasted
boer0 and 6as9ue that Is , Suo nonded TO- the
figure so to speak. and cut up in rounded Tohts'
crossing to the left side. where undet ia
row. rounded square neck. it buttons with three
fiat round crocheted buttons or the same coloI
oyn~ and fastens on the left side with invisible
hooks and eyes except where ms Is eCbame az the
waist. 1t goes out In a notch and theA curves
around. ,-....s ,,,,n ,7,, sronns
OF three buttons, like those on ne JACKIE, tne
lar and hem OF the skirt and the moyen Age cuffs
OF the sleeves forming sort Of Greek Pattsrn, -.
cut of the Jacket faring out on either side IN a
riAcement in front and stock being also OF hnely
pleated white satin
NEW SKIRT.
The description of the CIT of a new skirt whlcn
nas inst come over from Paris will doubtless be
read with interest. The upper and tght-httins
part is tightly gored In the back as well as me
front and consists OF five pieces-front. two sides
and two backs.
First comes the long front. which is cut very mar
rev at the waist slightly faring TO ut the hg"re
and al the bottom sloping up toward the sides.
Next are he side pieces. which. joining the long
front on one seam. curve abruptly up TO wltnln
sighfeen inches of the waist. The back pieces
csrve slightly downward from the seam which
ioins the sides. and have no folds whatever, CLOS
Ing at the back with six small fiat crocheted Dut-
ions This fiat cut at the back makes weiI-htte95
hustle almost necessity 10 m0S' women ana
sbould be made by the dressmakers ACCORDING 10
the reouiremenfs Of the figure OF SILK TO naicn inc
lining and stuffed with horsehair. 49,
In heavy cloth velvet this upper part or the
skirt is no longer lined in Paris. the lining being
confined to the fitted spring founce at the bottom
NTH which one has become familiar during the
mast season. and therefore requires no DESCRIPTION
ARTISTIC WALLPAPER.
W. -. - tho deepner has been called forth to