New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-09-17
THE NEW FRENCH IDEA.
CLOTH GOWNS ARE TRIMMED WITH
FOLDS OF THE SAME MATERIAL.
LOUIS Ky JACKETS HAVE ROUTED THE BoI-ERo
AND ARE BECOMING MORE FASHION

| LOUIS Ky JACKETS HAVE ROUTED THE BoLERo
AND ARE BECOMING MORE FASHION
ABLE DAILY.
| new French idea whic' has It's attractions Is
to trim a cloth gown with bias folds OF cloth Of
another color For instance. A 'parme' colore"
cloth has the skirt made with short spring"
hounce at the bottom the upper part Of the skirt
apparently overhanging II with two rows or orange
cloth folds about half inch IN width The bodice
which fastens the side is cut straight down
from the neck on the right side for six inches or
So and then turns and up diaGonally In a
sharp angle 10 meet the straiCh; cut from the left
side Of the neck which slightly passes and then
turns down again and goes down TO the waist
forming an irregular point. which buttons over on
the left side with two cut-stee buttons. The open
ing left IN this Is filled in with an Irish
guipure enpiecement yellow satin. The edges
OF the opening Of the cloth trimmed with bias
folds of the orange cloth. Ike that the skirt,
and the high wrnkled collar and tho belt are OF
orange velvet. The hat to go with this costume
is trimmed with large Alsatan bows Of oranSe-col-
ored velvet. behind the other. the back one
larger than tho in 'front.' the hal Itself being OF
"parme" colorcd felt
The fashion of wearing a ribbon wrapped twice
around the neck and tied in a bow either front or
back absolutely estates stiff under support
OF kind. and the summer girl seems 10 nave
solved the difficulty by buying betting the snme
color as the ribbon and pinning it tight around the
throat over this the ribbon Is tied. and the str
betting keeps II in position OF course one piece or
betting will ou;last many ribbons and half n dozen
different colors or the latter will probably hll all
the requirements for an entire season. This Is
much hcitc- than the celluoid bands which are In
serted In the made stock collar In the shops, az
the betting Is pliabe. and as II is. the single
thickness Is much Jess bulky.
Narrow rows OF ,ttching used trimming
ia
one recent French importation has the front and
back made exactly alike. the wonder being where
IS the opening. The material Is Of gray cloth. ana
the stitching Is done with six Of slightly darker
shoulders which 90 as far a. deep yoke back
and front: there he stitching ends ,hc space be-
boy Of rows 20 touch the FIRST % those on m"
shoulders. the middle stitching continues 70 the
Win orange miror velvet Below the waist six
rows Of stitching extends 10 n" hem OF ths skI
back and front. m" back being AZ DEVOID OF iodS
This foidcss condition Of the backs seems TO be
fashion that Is more becoming 20 slim persons than
Another noticeable peculiarly abou, the costumes
for the coming season Is the tendency 81 every
As has aiready been said in these columns, the
most fashionable and newest Jackets are made win
no, only the jackets that follow this fashion, the
bodice. Of The gowns themselves are also cht III
this way. and even the trimming follows the same
short the Louis XIV jacket has at last comp"'eS
chic when used a trimming.
a graceful walking frock for this season whlch
hos n now shane I'm its Jacket Is made Of dark red
poau de sole The skirt. which Is particularly
grnccful. has n nounce AZ the bottom made Wl,h
graduated plen's. which a. the Top. whefT ,ey 2. ,
The sheath skirt really nne iucks. The jacket
IS pleated from the neck. Il cut long ana clnslns
M the hack and mas rounded fronts. when are
given pretty frOu irou encct by the holt gong
only hall way around me waist ara pass,ns
throurh the material leaving the front hanging
loose and open white SILK chefnisoue anu
cray-,tie The top IL turned over with roNnB
collar that has two ploated rufics, one below the
other giving tho effect Of a CarTck cape
A pretty arrangement FOR m" neck 20 wear AZ
ms season is "A cross between n pel"rine ana Don
which is made IN the following manner " ne
mou--olino de sole ribbon with satin rige ~ .ut
rilffle growing narrower toward Tho ends mum
Ler ~ these rufos are sewn together on m" edges
making them thlck enough 10 form a round bon
large In Tho middle and hcro'nihg quite small NJ
This boa is nght ard pretty ard may DO made or
any color although black IL the he'i.