The herald., 1898-04-10
.UP-TO-DATE FASHIONS
SOME CHIC MODELS IN TAILOR
MADE GOWNS
PRINCESS FOR FINE FIGURES
Cloth Only Serves as Foundation for
the Braider's Art-The Fad
for Ribbon SasheS

NEW YORK. April 4.--(Special Corre-
spondence to The Herad.) In the latest
models Of tailor-made gowns just appear
ing one gets but the merest glimpse of the
material itself. The finest box or broad
cloth, the newest make of our old favorlte.
blue serge, they and their like only serve
as foundation for the better display Of the
braider's art.
AS far as design goes our old friend, the
Greek key pattern, seems to hold its own
as first favorite.
One very chic little model recently saw
it had but just arrived from Vienna
was built of the finest black broadcloth,
not by any means Of heavy make, yet
possessing sufficient substance to enable
the skirt to hang withut anything in the
shape of lining or stiffening. AT distance
of some four or five inches from the hem
a broad band of white cloth was ap-
piqued by means of a narrow edging of
black silk military braid. Upon the band
itself was worked in a large design the
above mentioned key pattern A narrower
band OF the white cloth was also applied
panelwse on either side Of the skirt, reach
ing about half way down and embroidered
to match. The coatee of Elton cut had huge
revers OF the white cloth. also embroid-
cred, as were the smart little cuffs. A
vest Of white satin, covered with white
chiffon. was embroidered with the finest
Imaginable black silk cord IN a similar pat
tern, and the coatee was lined with pale
mauve silk, this note of color being also
repeated at the throat in the shape oi
smart glace silk cravat, accordion
pleated after the latest mode. The hat
accompanying the latter confection was of
pale buff straw, somewhat inclininS to a
turban in shape, but with broad bandeau
OF black velvet on the left side only. The
crown was draped with white glace silk,
caught up on the left side with huge
rosette of the same material bearing In
It's center an amethyst buckle. From this
rose q plume and osprey of black feathers.
This rosette was again repeated upon the
bandeau. which is all but concealed.
Blue serge, though to be sure. it Is
sever smiling, ever new," lacks originality,
but the way In which a woman | saw on
Fifth avenue the other day had contrived
to impart something of this desirable
quality to her serge frock is something
worthy of notice. The material of the
gown in question was only. as have said,
serge. But she had trimmed hers with a
difference and therein lay all its charm
Tho skirt narrow and sheath like, was OF
the latest cut. and, as its wearer raised It,
! caught glimpse of a lining of turquoise
blue, much and lavishly befrilled. Outside
It was adorned with deep Vandykes ci
black silk braid applied over strips of the
turquoise blue. The coat was an Eton
with broad directoire-like revers of the
turquoise blue. These were braided am
g!rnt|set one only caught antalizlng uttls
matched the revers. These, too, were
blue silk covered with yellow point lace
to be sure, but losing nothing of effect
thereby. At the throat cravatte OF
black accordion -pleated moussseline dc
sole was elapsed by a turquoise and paste
buckle. The hat was of dark blue straw
draped with turquoise plisse silk, and had
outstanding bows of the yellow lace wired
to keep them duly erect, pentitude OF
vlolets of pale Parma shade and an artis.
tically tied knot of black velvet ribbon.
I would I could call that costume mine
Eraidng has also claimed the bicycling
costume for its own. A charming one OF
stone gray I saw the other day was
braided simply yet smartly in a conven-
tional scroll-like design In a depth Of per-