The times., 1898-06-26

cling dresses made OF SILK " elSueu IN
the balance against this fabric all other
weaves viii be found wanting for this
especial purpose. II is the one thing at
once cool. clean, light OF weight and de-
hant OF dust and wrinkles. A good, sim
pie foulard, or, better yet a fair quality
of tussore can cross the continent in Sum-
m-r weather and come forth from the
ordeal without even the smell of the
stuffy sleeping berths in its folds. This
IS more than can be said for wooden,
while Iinen under such a test, gathers
stains and wrinkles at every mile.
The silks that are as ring-streaked,
aDeckled and spotted as Jacobs cattle
find especial favor in the sight OF the w0-
men who are now voyaging about the
country else they cling to a peculiar
shade OF pale brown. known as string col
or. and wear so1I white pique chemisettes
and revers adjusted 10 the waist freshly
every day.
Brown shoes, high or low. they adopt
for travelling both by sea and land. and
as all the skirts Of travelling gowns are
very abbreviated, certain artful devices
have been resorted to by the shoemakers
TO give the patroness possessed OF an un-
fortunate pair of feet more symmetrical
have darker vamps than uppers. That is,
the vamp is made Of vanished or enam-
eIed brown leather and the upper Of thin
ner. lusterIess skin This helps TO trim
down the size Of 4 foot greatly, while the
opening over the instep is cut very wide
and underneath the vanished leather
tongue a little strip OF padding is laid By
such means a low instep seems TO gain
height, especially when the heel is cut on
what is known as the military form
Women with pretty feet To show below
their short duck skirts wear ties Of black,
highly-pOlished veal skin, having tops OF
sapphire blue dressed leather This veal
skin Is the hide Of the very young calf,
50 treated that il Is as soft as dog skin
and assumes high polish. With blue up
pers on these smart ties blue heels are
used. the rather heavy extension sOles are
stitched with blue, blue silk ribbons run
through the eyeIets and throughout the
shoes are lined with blue satin Their
shape il essentially sensible. however, and
I'm contrast TO this fOOtgear many women
who sail for foreign lands fit themselves
out Tor the voyage with white canvas
rubber-sOled ties white duck short skirts,
white linen shirt waists and white straw
round mats. trimmed with bias strip Of
wire-edsed white taffcta- For defense
against bTeezes dark rough serge capes
and coats are carried The capes espec-
tally have all their edges bound with
white OF dark-colCred Elace kid.
From the laundress' point of view. this
dressing IL white on board steamer is an
eXtrayaganI thing to do. for decks are
daily powdered with black waste from the
tai tunnels. All this. however, IS of no
weight with the woman who knows how
TO look her best at sea, who protects her
hands from sunburn by pair Of the new
washable glace gloves and ties over her
face a chiffon veil bearing big white silk
dots.
Nog, the veil manufacturers would have
US believe that in its effect on the eye. the
white dot is positively soothing, and III ere
fore a blessing TO be courted. Such wells,
and especially those for outdoor wear,
are regularly made Up with a draw string
across the front where it gathers over
the hat brtm. and in the rear. instead Of
pinuing over the 5Tim, the ends Of the veil
are cut short, pleated up close and logged
with very narrow white ribbon. These
two ribbons the WeaTer ties across her
back hair. and the device is neat, secure
and becoming.
Breathes there a woman with soul so
dead who never to herself has said Il
must have a lace gown" Beginning with
close lace mitteu sleeves. growing grad
uaIIy with deep Spanish founces and
broadening into shawl capes, the epoch of
lace is moving down upon US. The times
are ripe for lace revival and in cOnse-
50 low an ebb, is growing strong and
steady.
II you have inherited a quaint old
Chantilly lace shawl from your mother
get il out and put il on your back. Drape
il over lining Of burnt orange silk, over
which goes a facing of chiffon before the
lace is applied. Don't cut the shawl but
drape Z. in its natural fold from your
shoulders back. for the shawl shape Is
followed sIavishly IN the cutting Of all
the new shoulder draperies.
Superb white lace shawls are throvr
over Rose du Barry and turquoise blue
brocade for evening wraps. while th'
white lace dresses are frst dra2ed 0I
cream Inslines net and this in turn has
a foundation OF cream satin. A marked
preference in laces IS showed for tht
best old or new Irish manufacture over
the finest Italian. Flemish or French
point Limerick Carrickmacross. and
a new needle lace called the Cadozan
lead in popularity. The last mentioned
is worked under the especial patronage
Of be Countess OF CadOgan and show!
an artistic blending Of the shamrock and
harp IN every pattern
Irish lace is not the only manufacture
from the Emerald Isle that is winninC
its way this season with American no
men All shades Of green Irish fri Y.
are used for outing skirts and stout
yachting and travelling dresses. The bes
Irish make OF this goods produces d
practically indestructible fabric. that is
Light. springy. almost waterproof and
il the Irieza comes from the center OF the
cottage Industries and IS hand woven and
hand dyed. its color and quality canno
be too highly eXtolled Some Of the
smartest deck ulsters are wrought oi
green fr.eze and made up with fiat bras:
or silver buttons to copy the picturesque
model Of the long coat worn by the peas
am ia the west Of Ireland.
For lightweight dust coats. used 50
much by women who knock about tho
country in railroads, are built chiefly of a
fine goods known as porter's linen. 1t is
blue OF a deep ragged robin tone such
as the railway and steamship porterS
wear in Summer. but for the feminine
traveller a very light weight is adopted
and shawl caDes and tasteful braidine
give the linen ulster grand air In place
OF an ulster silk dust cape is quite as
frequently adopted The cool warp falls
10 the knees and in all respects is cut or
the pattern Of the Inverness cape now 81
despised and rejected of the fashiOna biz
man.
One neat device utilized with the brown
ponEee dust cape is the cocky and be
coming little railroad hat woman car
assume when she is making a short ol
long trip by rail. Her own best head
gear with all its tuIle and fiowered fragil
ity she can carry in an ample box or
the seat beside her. assuming under The
showers Of railroad grit a modified edi
ton OF what the blOodthirsty Englishrnar
has conriYed for hunting trips into ths
Indian jungle. This is the thinnest felt
string brown, or ash grey in color So
soft that il folds into the pocket, and