The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-09-21
FASHION NOTES.

Black gowns of lovely transparent or
semi-diaphanous weaves over silk or sat-
in, and in heavier materials for day wear
will take high place in the ranks of
fashion for the two seasons before us.
Faille, bengaline, victoria reps, and
many other lustrous corded silks are
brought out in charming variety, and
these are used alike for entire gowns,
fancy waists, capes, coats, and for styl-
ish combination toilets and costumes.
Among the silks now extensively
used by Felix, Weille, Doucat, Raud-
nitz, etc., are the handsome musco-
vites, faille de Paris, Victoria jaspe,
peau de Diane, peau de sole, all the
taffetas, in both plain and fancy
weaves, and soft liberty satins and fou-
lards in beautiful autumn colorings and
designs.
Fashionable dressmakers who have
professional way of speaking their
minds to their regular customers have
in some cases this season refused fatty
TO make any bobbed-off skirt styles,
even on street tailor gowns, declaring
that to send out such passe Salvation
Army styles would ruin their reputa-
ton as modistes. Where customers
have firmly insisted upon skirts less
long than those of their light summer
gowns, compromise skirt has resulted
that barely clears the ground on the
front and sides, but has "dip" at the
back on the breadths which can be
easily lifted.
The handsome double-faced CASH
meres will find increasing favor and adj
miration as the new weaves and rich
fall colorings are brought out. This
material is quite heavy enough for
winter wear, which single cashmere is
not, unless we'll lined and worn above
warm underskirts. The elegant Vene-
tians and faced cloths make up into
very stylish tailor costumes, but unless
of the best quality, the surface guaran-
teed to have been sponged, rain and
other spots show aggressively, as they
do, in fact, on most dressed materials.
India cashmere, being alike on both
sides, is an economical purchase in the
end. 1t is eminently soft, and in black
is somewhat dull, but this all wool
variety is everlasting wear, and makes
up handsomely, no matter how simply
trimmed. Another variety of soft, fex-
ible India fabric is covered with fine
silky hairs, like an improved cancels
hair, but many women object to it on
this account. French cashmere is a
very beautiful material, but its some
what lustrous surface, like many
weaves in silk, has the Objectionable
fault of becoming quickly glazed by
wear. Cleaners profess to remove
this oily-looking gloss, but very fire.
quently they do not succeed. -New
York Post.
In the face of all the continued top.
heaviness of fashionable headwear it is
a relief especially in these first torrid
days of September to come upon few
stores and importing houses showing
advance autumn and winter styles
where the presiding genius shows you
among the bewildering exhibit of forth
coming and present modes-a few SIM
pie, pretty styles in toque, turban and
English walking-hat models, which are
entirely up to date in contour and dec
Grafton, but designed for those who
seek modes that are in no way conspic-
uous. One such hat--a very graceful
toque held up for admiration-was
made or beautiful quality OF chestnut
brown velvet, the crown of French felt.
1t was trimmed with cluster of shad-
ed English wallhowers and three brown
ostrich tips. A number of loops of
brown silk tulle were mingled with the
brilliant flowers. A very rich shade of
navy-blue velvet formed Rubens hat
that had moderately wide wing pieces
in front on each side of the crown,
these lined with white silk, the rest of
the velvet trimming piped with the
silk. A black-velvet shepherdess hat
had broad bows in front, arranged like
the outstretched wings of bird, these
lined with soft pink satin, with a clus-
ter of shaded pink and crimson velvet
roses at one side, and few more un.
der the hat brim at the back. Lastly
was somewhat larger round hat in
the new beautiful damson colorings,
there being four distinct shades on the
hat, and it's trimmings of velvet flowers,
facings and feathers. This was an
ideal French model, and it was sold to
a beautiful woman from Denver who
looked lovely picture in it.