The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-01-13

the servants of the next generation; also
training schools for domestic labor where
young girls shall be taught thoroughly all
the departments of housewife and cook
cry. Thus doing. the time will come when
no servant will be hired without a dipio-
ma from some training school, and a girl
will as much expect to fit herself Tor
housemaid or cook as for dressmaker or
any trade.
" The art of selection is the art of true
living. A woman can accomplish little
whose life is a series of crises; a kaleidos-
copic rush: a glimpse of dissolving views
1t is this want of selection which makes
of too many persons mental dudes
attired in the outward adornments of a
smattering of fashionable information, but
in reality not possessed of any practically
useful ideas. After a proper selection
comes economy of time. The investment
of time must be wisely undertaken by
women who are paying financial invest
ments by men. Then m system. Ac-
ions must be governed by plans fully
marked out; not left for the haphazard
moment to suggest
50.
A somewhat large piece of work is a
travelling rug, and yet it can be worked
with great ease in this manner:-Choose
a great surface-faced cloth of AZ or A
inches wide; the only suitable colors are
dark green and dark blue, or a good, rich
brown. Have a bold design of the mono
gram of the person for whom it is in
tended, and work this in filoselle, using
a lighter shade of silk than the material
upon which it is drawn. You may work
this in satin stitch or any other embroid-
cry stitch which you prefer. or you can
nave the monogram or initials drawn
upon a piece of cloth, lighter in shade.
and applique it on to the rug with close
~buttonhole stitch. When this is worked in
one corner. it is a good plan to make
two pockets by cutting two Sits at the
depth of thes piece of cloth. which would
come conveniently for use. These should
be worked all round with close button
hole stitch. in the same silk as is used
for working the monogram, after tacking
in the pocket, which make of stout linen
(back).
The outer side of the rug is now com
plete, and you should get one of the
lambswool cloths of the same width for
lining. Tack it firmly round the edge,
leaving about an inch of the outer cloth
to turn in over it. and then work all
round to keep it firm in herring bone or
close chain stitch on the inside. 10
make a really satisfactory piece of work
YOU must repeat this chain or herring
bone on the outside as well, so that there
be no untidiness. If the soft side of the
| lining is placed against the outer cloth,
the two materials will probably adhere
to each other, but the safest plan is to
secure them at regular intervals by a
stitch or two finished by a French knot.
A driving rug may be worked much IN
| the same way on box cloth, but 1t is
more difficult to work, and requires diff
ferent treatment.
The present is an excellent season for
economical dressing. Scant patterns of
cloth and left-overs from last year can
be converted into fashionable toilets
without the slightest hint OF the opera
ton. skirts, for example, that are worn
off at the bottom may have the needed
! length supplied by being mounted at the
top on a yoke. These yokes can pc
made, and are preferably so made, OF an
| entirely different fabric. In the case OF
slender figures, the joining line may be
| outlined in fur, but the most satlsfae-
| torv arrangement is a pointed yoke of
cloth in some lighter shade than the
dress fabric. which is braided or trim
med with a set of braided pieces that
can be bought, points fitting over the
| hips and in any outline that suits the
| taste of the wearer. Waists, too, that
must be freshened by having the shabby
part removed, can be spliced out in the
| most modish way by the introduction OF
| a guimpe. These guimpes are almost as
| universal as the Russian blouse. There
is only the fear that their popularity will
! overreach itself and produce the inevitable
| reaction. 1t is the guimpe effect that is
| assured. not a separate waist provided.
These round yokes are of every material,
from the sheerest, fimsiest lace and chif-
fon to heavy cloths and ~velvets, and even
an ermine guimpe was seen worn with a
creamy white silk waist at the horse
show.
Sleeves have crowns so mucn smalief tnat
the amount of material used a season or
two ago for one sleeve can now, II neces-
sary, serve for two: since the little pun
at the top may be of the trimming fabric.
If those of an old gown have become
worn and will be too short when cut OFF
at the wrist, they may be slashed in a.
deep point, almost to the elbow, and filled
in with a fine plating of lace or silk.
The wrinkled or mousquetaire sleeve has
quite gone by. Haircloth and silk under
shirts are made on foundations of Saline
or silesia. reaching to the knees. and are
lined with warm red flannel.
***
The princesse gown, much improved by
its handsome bodice decorations and pic
turesoue sleeve and shoulder effects, is
pertaining gaining in favor. The skirt
horizons also show new forms, being
s1asheG at the sides. finished with long
peplum ends. and trimmed half way up
the length of the skirt with narrow
oraids. frills or ruches; or the lower edge
of the skirt is cut in tabs or deep Van
dykes that are velvet bound or otherwise
finished. These gowns are capable of In
finite variety. and some of the most novel
and charming evening styles are cut
balf-1ow in the neck, laced at the back
| and slashed on the front and side
hreadths. Each opening is then trimmed
with lace pleatings or gathered velvet
edged chiffon frills. The bodice is lavish
~ decorated ON the front and over the
shoulders. The princesse form appears
also in many of the models for new
French bridal toilets.
A