davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-05-21
The andkerchief Belt.
-om the New York Herald.

From the New York Herald
There is a new belt You thought they
had used everything under the sun for
them but YOU were mistaken The newest
pewness In that line Is muffler belt, or,
what its name implies, a silk handkerchief
made into girdle. There are two designs.
One is made by folding the big brilliant
silken square until IL forms a narrow band,
measuring from corner to corner about
forty-six inches when stretched out. This
is brought around the waist. hiding the
skirt band and place where the bodice and
skirt meet, and taken around to the side
and knotted in two flowing ends, fastened
by q brilliant buckle or clasp of silver or
gold. The clasps are riyeted or sewn on so
that they measure the same as the waist
band and when in position the whole forms
a graceful and really pleasing effect,
strange as il may seem when told in print
The other handkerchief designs are called
girdles, and made in a very different
manner. They are shirred 20 a high point
in the front like a corset front and shirred
at both sides with bones sewn In to make
them hold their place At the back they
are gathered into slim shir, and the cor
ner points are allowed to fall in two grad
ual tails that show the border and make a
that ordinary bolt silk would show They
are more graceful than ribbon, however
soft and wide II may be.
Evening star., 1898-05-21
SUMMER FURNISHINGS
\ Chapter on Things Tint Lend
Charm to Country House.

From the Philadelphia Record
simplicity is how the watchword of the
woman who is furnishing her summer
home. and whether at seashore or country.
or mountain, her pretty cottage IS fresh
and COO! and airy and as free from stufry
effect as its clever owner can possibly
make it,
If the floors are of hard wood sofi-colored
japanese n gs are thrown here and there
ard always with a utilitarian purpose-be-
fore a couch, a capacious willow chair 81
"a the foot of the staircase where there Is
much wear. Or if there are only the or
diEary unpublished wood floors then nothing
is prettier than the figured Chinese o.
piain-colored mattings and a few jute rugs
both Of which are inexpensive and s,.ry-
lceahle Basket and willow furniture for
nan ana living room is the correct thing
ana IL upholstered should be done in En-
glish chintz or cretonne. The brilliant
mower patterns are now much i'm vogue
ana with bat little trouble one can DEVISE
charming flower scheme in poppies viii
roses or the glorious, many-hued orchid
AL heavy materials are rigidly eschewed
ana not one square inch Of plush should
be permitted within the four walls of tha
country home-that is. if simplicity be the
keynote of its furnishings
bfaperles, II draperies are used at all
should always serve a purpose and wher-
SNei posSipie l-Snt Japanese screens make
pretty and graceful substitute for the
heavier hangings.
Forteres for dining room and living room
are Indispensable, but these should be of
denim, chintz or tapestry, never anvthin..
heafy or with GCSt-collecting tendencies
For bed rooms the clean brass or white
IRON bedstead will be found a joy to the
careful housekeeper, and here again in
stead OF lace and satin hedspreads Lot Their,
hc pure white dimity spreads such as our
srandmothers delighted in and pillow
cases OF pure white linen. gUiltless # trim
ming or elabC rate embroidery
The question Of window curtains in 4
summer house is a matter of climate as
well as personal taste. but where cooIness
Is the first consideration they should De-.
omitted especially in sleeping chambers
Dark green blinds afford ample protectioa
against the rays of the sun. and if supple
nented by awnings or Japarese blinds out
side room SO shielded will never be found
not, or worse still, 'glarey," even in mid
summer.
Many housekeepers. however. feel that
the prettiness of house-is entirely want
ing unless curtains are hung and in that
case simple white swiss or 1ambour mus
lii will be found in keeping with the other
furnishings. a fiowered chintz valance
matching the cushions on the baske; chairs
makes quaint finish across the ton O. a
wide easement window and should he
gathered very full and hung on a light
brass rod.
Jardin:eres filled with plants or cut field
flowers should stand i'm hall and living
room, and then with the addition of lib-
eral supply of books and newspapers and
magazines one has Sn ideal summer home
Evening star., 1898-05-21
BARTER LIFE FOR BEAUTY.
Women Who Commit Slow Poisoning
for Their CompleNion's Sake.

From the san Francisco Chronicle
Society women who use the deadly arsenic
wafer for the complexion are increasing in
numbers, according to a prominent physi-
clan of this city.
Though arsenic is known to be harmful,
madame of society" forgets this in her
earnest search for something to take the
place of the legendary Fountain of Youth
| When the first tiny crows feet begin to
appear she is suddenly reminded to take
stock of her charms. Late hours, rich food
and want of proper exercise have done
their work.
The muddy complexion must he driven
away, but not at the sacrifice of social dis
sipations which sum up her happiness
Somebody in her set suggests arsenic.
But it's poison
''Oh, no. Don't take too much of it. 1t
is large doses you should guard against"
A few weeks pass before the effects Of
the slow poison are visible. The clouded
skin has gradually given place to white
ness.
No unpleasant symptoms result for a long
time, and the consumer of arsenic waters
is thrown off her guard. When the evils
do come she does not for a moment attrib-
ute them to the proper source.
The first effects of the arsenic waters is
to gradually destroy the small blood vessels
in the skin: therefore, unnatural whiteness.
which a delicate rouge is called in to re-
lieve Long continuation of the use of
senic brings many ills in its train The di-
gestive organs become sadly out of order;
loss of appetite follows, and madame finds
her body is wasting. She sits before her
dressing table and gazes sadly at her white,
attenuated countenance, with its fast-in-
creasng defects. Late hours and impru-
dent eating all get the blame Her physi-
clan is not informed Of the arsenic waters
and other prescribed drugs, therefore. in
crease the disturbed state of the system
Commissions, loss of sleep, headaches, rapid
heart action, delirium and other terrible
symptoms are the result often of continu-
alton of the habit
Worse calamity Of all. madame's lily
white skin, like the flower it resembles is
not lasting in its fairness. II she is wise
enough to guess the cause Of her illness and
confesses it to her medical adviser, she may
be relieved. But she will by that time have
destroyed her appearance TO such an extent
that she will never regain what she has
lOSf
Evening star., 1898-05-21
Suggestions for Women Who Would
Be Well Dressed.
TAFFBTA MORE POPULAR THAN EVER
Considering the Problems of Para
soils and Sun Umbrellas.
A GOWN FOR EVENING WEAR
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS. May IA, 1898.
Even ir.constant woman will be faithful
to her fancies sometimes, particularly when
these fancies dppertain to articles of at
tire. delicate textiles and dainty fashions
which she mas successfully tried and found
becoming.
Thus among fabrics which will not be
discarded and are taken up more favorably
than ever after short oblivion is taffeta.
In spite of the temptations of shining satin
and soft surah which the novelty mongers
have offered, the characteristic light rustic
of taffeta appeals to the feminine ear and
taffeta is revived for gowns. for Innings.
for independent bodices and for under
skirts
Another advantage of this favorite silk
goods is that il lends itself so admirably to
the changeable effect now so in vogue and
proves consequently an admirable founda-
ton for the many elaborate trimmings
which are used in such profusion.
Our model is composed of taffeta of a
changeable rose and hellotrope shade. The
skirt is absolutely unlined; but a narrow
interlining of linen canvas and facing
of taffeta gives a cert ain body to the hem.
Unlike most fashionable couturiers, we
have endeavored to restrict the dip" or
sweeping skirt to its proper premises, the
parquet of the ball rec or the carpeted
floors of the parlor. and We have therefore
made all our street models convenient as
we'll as artistic length. The same principle
Is obvious in our design of today.
Three very full rufties of rose heliotrope
tafreta are edged with two rows of narrow
and wide black velvet ribbon. The front
gore is set with strips of the wider ribbon,
and two falls of ruiiles graduating in width
they reach the three rufftes surrounding
the skirt simulate kind of tablier.
The loose blouse is fitted over q tight
decoiletc and sleeveless lining of taffeta.
The front is decorated with stripes of black
velvet ribbon hike the front of the skirt,
and also like the skirt is defined by a
garniture of full ribbon-edged ruffies on
either side
The cool. unlined sleeve is especially
adapted to warm weather and is trimmed
with rows of black velvet ribbon and sur
mounted by puff. The ribbon-striped
Evening star., 1898-05-21

finished with Il full ruffle.
Hat and ParasoI.
The hat is of the "Bergere' shape of
white straw trimmed with myosotis and
! black velvet ribbon. and, according with
the prevailing Styles has considerable flow
er and ribbon garnitures at the turned-up
back brim.
The parasol is made of the same rose he
liotrope taffeta as the gown, and is COW
eled with white chiffon and finished with
white lace. Each rib Of the parasol is
trimmed with Il bow of black velvet ribbon
and lace and black ribbon loops and ends
also decorate the top. The stick is very
long to safely accommodate the towering
| nat, and the handle is a large round anne
thyst held by silver claw.
The time las come when parasols are al
most as necessary an adjunct to a COM
p!ete toilet hat, and every well-dressed
woman must have not only one but a
match for every costume if she has any
desire to be swell.
They come in every hue and shade of the
rainbow, and an enterprising dealer has in
vented a frame which will admit of the
fastening of different covers to match diff
ferent toilets.
Clever women with an eye to economy
find the style Of gauZe parasols very prac-
tical. They buy good China silk un-
trimmed parasol with a handsome handle,
decorate 1t with lace or gaHze or applique
designs and ribbon knots and have without
much trouble or expense a good imitation
of the very costly models.
Much selection is given to the handles,
and a tempter in the form of a serpent
which, like the legendary toad, wears a
precious jewel in its head has come back
TO torment the hearts of women who haunt
the shops looking for novelties. This time
1t coils itself around the handles of the
sn artest designs in parasols.
sun Umbrellas.
the woman who has a tendency toward
| masculine attire, and it has now reached
such state o. perfection, and it can be
done DIP so tight to it's stick, that it can be
| used in all emergencies.
The golf enthusiast will appreciate de-
| cided novelty in the shape of a golf UNI
brea. The stick can be used for putting
| when the silk umbrella is closely rolled up
and covered. Whether it will prove a prac-
tical addition to the kit still remains to
be seen.
The indispensable sporting costume of the
fin de steele woman has an influence on her
whole wardrobe. Not only has the useful
and reversible golf cape proved itself a
natty and practical wrap for travelling but
pockets are now demanded in all costumes
and the intell.gent~ dressmakcr no longer
places them inaccessibly to the fair wearer.
Street costumes are trimmed with cres-
! cent shaped pockets without flaps. and If
the skirt is as plain the present fashion
will allow the fly pocket in the seam of
the front gore looks tailormade and unos-
tentatious.
On dressy wear the pocket is easily hid
den under the garnture and woman no
longer mouIns the less of dainty handker-
chiefs. and sleeves and belts no longer
bulge out with stuffed-in mOuchoirs.
@%Z
Evening star., 1898-05-21
The Picturesque Gainsborourh.

From the Woman's Home Companion
The ever pretty and graceful Gainsbor-
cuSh hat is one OF the most popular shapes
for the summer, and is trimmed with a
dropping effect, Willing the flowers with
Chiffon, net or lace. Most of the hats are
to be worn quite far over the face, while
the small toque, turban and bonnet shapes
are set back to show the pompadour ar
rangem ent of the hair. which is dressed
nuHy. with an occasional lock straying over
the forehead. One of the best shapes in
straw for general wear has brim that rolls
on either side and extends out over the face
while the back Is quite short and fits the
hair snugly. Entire hats are made of a
lacy material woven of straw, some of them
having fanciful bows and rosettes Of the
same odd fabric. The smooth as well ss
the fancy woven plateau OF mohair is
caught up In ODD shapes with buckles or
fancy pins, and is trimmed with wings
quills and seysre-looking bows, making al
together suitable street or travelling hat
Evening star., 1898-05-21
Elastic shoestrings.
From the San Francisco Chronicle.

Our English cousins have added a great
convenience to the toilet in the form of
elastic shoestrings, elastic corset laces and
other similar, articles. They are far super
for to the old styles Of elastic cords, which
are made both there and here. They are
remarkably strong and durable, and give
a play to the muscles and joints. which
prevents stiffness and discomforts For
low shoes they are simply delightful. as
they enable one to have a laced shoe
which Is the neatest and trimmest Of ali
footwear, and at the same time to have
the give and yielding quality which Is the
chief charm Of elastic CATERS.
Evening star., 1898-05-21

Have the cook save all the lemon skins
after she has made her pies and jellies.
and put them into the water pitcher on the
washstand. The result Is fragrant toilet
water which Ii beneficial to the skim sew
erai slices of lemon in the bath are very
good. Care must be taken to remove the
seeds. else the plumbing win be injured
Evening star., 1898-05-21
Mourning.

From the st. Louis Globe Democrat
The custom Of wearing mourning is of
an antiquity so great that its origin is un-
certain. and no practice SO widely difYused
as this Is more variable. From forty days
to year Is commonly considered the
proper time III Europe and America for
wearing mourning, but circumstances
greatly vary from this approximate rule
Courts go into mourning for seven to thirty
days. Mourning Is displayed upon public
buildings generally about a month. md
mourMang for relative depends upon the
nearness of the relationship. We are ac-
customed to think of black as the only
mourning color. but almost every color Of
the rainbow is used somewhere in the
world as an emblem OF mourning; black
and white striped in the South Sea islands
grayish brown In Ethiopia, pale brown In
Persia; sky blue, Syria and Armenia: deem
blue, Bokhara: purple and violet in France;
Turkey. violet: China, white, and Egypt
and BurTnah, yellow.
Evening star., 1898-05-21

1OO NJ " " VI "A IN
who was inspecting
fl a & handkerchiefs
and other varieties of
bunting a few days
ago revealed to the
clerk in her discus
sion of sizes, quail
ties of silk, etc, that
her purchases were
meant to cover ham,
mack Gu S n ! o n S.
Sweeping the bunting
brusquely off the
counter, the clerk de-
Evening star., 1898-05-21
Women Are Wearing the National
Colors in Profusion.
DANGER OF CARRYING IT TOO FAX
Some Uses to Which Old GLORY
May Be Properly Put.
HINTS ON SUMMER STYLES

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star
Copyright, 1893, by the International Literary and
News Service.)
NEW YORK Nav 90 1898.
Evening star., 1898-05-21

the waist. by extremely narrow red or vel
vet ribbon.
Somewhat different from the red-white-
aLd-blces already described and more deli
cate IN It's harmon!es than most of them is
an AFTERNOON dress of nuns yelling almost
as fne and soft as crepe de chin.. The
color is pale shade o. gray A narrow
putting Of white chiffon Stimulates a polo-
naise uroa the akiit. The bodice is dainty
little Zouave edged with white putting lined
with scarlet and opening over full vest of
blue chiffon over white silk. A white chif-
ion sash Is tied in a bunchy fashion at the
left side of the front, the frilled ends fall
ing to the hem of the skirt.
Splendid Opportunities
OF course the distinctly outdoor dresses,
whether in serge or pique. afford rcd-white-
and-blneness every opportunity. For exam
pie, boating dress in blue serge has a COL
lar of white cloth set on around the shoul-
ders. At the neck the gown onens in a
square shape to show a tucked red silk
vest. Inc costume is further trimmed with
narrow gold braid and brass buttons
Asaih a bicycle dress of hussar blue
serge Is worn with white kid revers to its
ccat and with a red silk blouse The kid
appears a second time in a narrow white
beit, and the coat is braided not too pro-
fusely, with gold.
A dress of navy blue hopsackjne for conn
try wear is draped over simulated under
SKIRT of red and white plaid silk and trim.
neu win stitched bands of the material
placed at wide intervals. The bodice has
cascaced revers of the red and white which
form square epaulets on the shoulders.
Carried to Excess
1t goes without saying that white duck
skirts. worn with blue REFER coats and red
biouses, ard topped by sailor hats and red
white and blue bands will be thick WHEREBY
er summer girls CongIegate throughout the
season. Also that every shade of military
piue and gray as we'll the American YER
sion or khaki will be popular. But there
IS such thing reducing patriotism to
the trlViality of fad" and treating war
as a matter of holiday costuming Where
lore there is no gun metal and there are no
brass buttons or flag scarfpins about the
herewith SUBMITTED tea gown
"A robe OF white nuns yelling has a Kind
OF "atteau drapery at the back In front
1T opens over an under gown also of white
nun yelling. Pale yellow guipure insertion
Is set IN at intervals around the skirt ana
curious scarf draperies of heayv yelIow
suipufe are thrown about the shoulders
pale blue silk sash shows at the si6aS
fastening under the Watteau and nassinc
throush the front without sash ends Nore
piue appears in a large bow at back of the
neck ana IN loops on the left shouIdar
long plack net scarf is fantasticallv dranad
III front and behind. ELLEN OSRORN
Evening star., 1898-05-21
Hat and ParasOl.

standing collar. as we'll as the wrists, are
finished with a full ruffie
Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1898-03-29
GILBERTS LIBEL SUIT.
Many Prominent Theatrical, Fo,k. 7, III

Many Prominent Theatrical Folks In the
Court.
London, March 2S.-There was a
large crowd present in the Queen S
bench Division of the High Court of
justice to-day, the attraction being the
opening OF the libel suit brought by
w. 5. Gilbert against the Era, owing
10 the publication in that paper of
an article taxing Gilbert "Pomposity,
envy, ingratitude, etc. apropos of an
interview in which he fell foul of
Sydney Grundy, actors and critics gen.
orally. Gilbert claims LOCO pounds
damages.
Sir Henry Irving, Beerbohm Tree,
Mrs. Fortesque and Mr. Bran otoker
were among those present in court.
During the course of his examina-
ton Mr.. Gilbert admitted attacking
the critics, but said he referred to
the American herd of Journalists in
London, who, without literary ability
or experience, are given positions as
critics, as the easiest work for incom-
petent Journalists.
Sir Henry Irving was called as a
witness for the defense, but his evil
dence was ruled out as being mad
missible.
The case was adjourned
Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1898-03-29
STILL FEEL ABLE.

Madrid, March 2S.-The impartial
suu the Liberal to-day agree in saying
audt the mediation of the European
powers will be difficult in view of the
Oisls IN the far east, adding:
Anyway, Spain is able herself to re-
senl insults and repudiate unjust pre-
me Liberal also says: eff the Uni
.gu states desires to succor the Cubans,
ele simplest means is to confide the
mission to the Spanish Red Cross
%nlch was recently helped in the same
U0olect by France, Russia, Hungary,
Portugal, Venezuela and Argentina.
me Spanish Red Cross is well organ
yea IN Cuba. and besides many mem
yer; nefs are ready TO go there from Spain
II necessary.
However if the United States wants
war, let her say so frankly and not
seek charitable or humanitarian ex-
Inc Diario quotes Minister for the
colonies Senior Moret as replying to a
question of the Minister Of Marine. Ad-
Hlfal Bermejo, with the remark. 'The
Storm continues, but the barometer is
rising"
rms is regarded as meaning that
me situation is not so unfavorable to
SQaln as it was.
Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1898-03-29
LIVE STOCK.

CHICAGO, March Robustness in cat
tie was active and stronger to-day from
the opening to the close. Beef steers SOFA
on basis OF So Sod4 20 Tor the com comm .h
greater part going at 81 40u3 10. stockers
and feeders at from So 65 to $ 90 Tor COM
monest to best. and calves were IN good
demand at wide range, the best pflnS-
ing IS 2od6 60 commorer grades going at
81 0G16 90.
Heavy receipts of hogs forced prices
lower and sales were at further decline.
Common to prime droves of hogs sold /, az
50 .s0G3 s.. the greater part at 50 loq3 s2l2
Sheep and lambs, strong; choice lamps ~ &
8 So commonest lambs - 40; Sneep' - 81
largely at 81 35G4 60.
Receipts-Cattle, 5000 head hogs, $1,000
head; sheep, 5000 head
EAST BUFFALO, N y, March Is
fat. 81 55a4 Co; coarse and roughs, s. 75dp
4 Is: light, 81 20d4 40; choice fat heifers.
81 25a4 50; light he.fers. So 5oas Is: mixed
butchers stock, 50 65d4 10: good butchers
cows 50 6063 go
Hogs good to choice Workers. So s0d
%; light Workers. So S0d3 80; mixed pack
ers' grades, So a5d74 %: medium weights.
90; stays. 81 75Gi3 Il; pigs, 50 1908 IS.
TO good s 6oq5 s.; yearlngs, 81 75N5 10;
wethers. 81 O0d5 90: mixed sheep, 81 6o0
) SIS: common to fair, 81 s5n4 90 culls 50 20
"A Is.
EAST LIBERTY Pa. March 2s.--Cat-
tie firm: prime. IS 05Q5 Il: common. So SO
al Il: bulls, stays and COWS, 50 0004 TO-
Sheep. lower: prime medium weights.
81 0564 10: heavy Workers, So 9oGd4 90, best
light Workers. So 85d3 20: pigs, to quail
ity, s. 6Ga4 so; heavy hogs. 81 05a4 10:
good roughs, SO 25n3 %: common to fair.
81 50d3 co.
sheep choice, 81 sOa5 60: common. 81 20
a 90; choice lambs. s. 9016 90; common
to good, 81 15G5 80.
Veal calves, IS 1916 %.
CINCINNATI, o.. March 2S-Hogs, act
i've al So 25ll4 05.
Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1898-03-29
COTTON MILL STARTED AGAIN.

Biddeford. Me-, March 2S.-Accordine
to notice given on Saturday, the York
cotton mills in Saco openeS to-day. but
out OF 1000 striking employees, only 200
went to work, and in several depart.
ments there was not enough help to
start the machinery. In the weaving
department, so out of 1900 looms
started. The managers claim that they
did not expect the mass of the opera
tives to go to work to-day. but hope to
get most of them back in the course OF
a few days.