The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1898-02-07
THE CAFES OF VIENNA.
The Part They Play in the Life of the
Gay Austrian CAPITAL

The Part They Play in the Life of the
Gay Austrian Capital.
Cafes are for the Viennese second
home, and they all have two kinds of
clients, the "stanmgaeste' or habit
ues, and the 'laufande." or transients.
The habitues, commonly called 'wir-
thausbruder" (cafe brothers), have ta-
bles reserved for them, and woe betide
the man who ventures to take posses
sion Of this sacred property. There are
many Viennese who, In the past thirty
or forty years, have sat at the same ia
Bile in the same corner. day after day,
drinking the same brew of beer or
brand of wine, and smoking the same
sort of tobacco in the same old pipes.
stammgaest generally spends from
three to four hours every day at his
cafe, the natural result being a great
loss of time and money, But the Wen
nese are not miserly. The maxim they
follow is found in the German proverb.
which seems to have been written on
purpose for them: 'Leben und loben
lassen"-"Live and Let Live"
Besides these cafes there are a num-
Der of restaurant cellars in Vienna,
similar to the cellars of Leipslg, Ham
burg and Bremen, where people go to
drink wine and partake of delicates-
sen, pates, oysters, caviar, smoked
fish, Westphalian sausages and other
eatables of the same general sort.
There are certain cellars, like the old
Felsenkeller, which are arranged like
grottoes. The Felsenkeller has been
visited by many European celebrities,
and on it's walls are scratched the au-
tographs of Victor Hugo. Meyerbeer,
Wagner, Brahms, Alexander Dumas,
father and son, and many others.
The most picturesque of these cellars
is the "Esterhazy Keller" open every
day from II A. M. until 1870 the follow
ing morning. In this subterranean re-
sort there are no tables, chairs, or gas
lights. A few old benches against the
walls and some wretched candles are
the only furnishings. The demi-monde,
petit monde, and the quart de monde
frequent this cellar to great extent.
A perfect babel Of languages prevail
German, Polish, Czech, Russian,
French, Hungarian, Slavonian, italian,
ISANA6Aib IShi6eli i1iit ASO0lAltALiAetHt CIV
Greek may all be heard spoken in the
space of few minutes, giving a
splendid idea Of Vienna's cosmopolitan
nature and striking proof that the
imperial capital of the Hapsburgs is
not a German city, but town which
is neither European nor Oriental, and
possessing a cachet of its own, which
partakes both Of the East and the
West Notwithstanding the bohemian
aspect of this Esterhazy Keller and the
poor quality of the food provided, the
two kinds of wine served are worthy
of a. royal table.
Excellent wine is to be found at all
Vienna cafes, much Of which is native.
Austria and Hungary together grow
some fifteen different wines. Emperor
Charles Nv. transplanted in 134S vines
from Burgundy to Melnik and Czerno-
SEX. In the lowerAustria vineyards are
found 5000 feet above the sea level
The wines Of Gumpoldskirchen Voeslau
and Klosterneubourg can vie with
Burgundy and certain Rhine wines.
In southern Tyrol, in Syria, Carin-
| thia, Moravia, Illyria, Dalmatia, Hun
gary, and Croatia, first wine is
| made, and forms in the Slav provinces
| the habitual drink of rich and poor
alike. The consequence is that the
Slav races Of Austria are far more en-
ergetic and of finer physique than the
Germans Austrians who become bloat-
ed by excessive beer drinking.
1t is not easy to find good food at the
| Vienna cafes and restaurants, howev-
err. The Viennese manner of cooking is
las International as are the Viennese
themselves. The best is found in the
| hotels, all of which have three differ
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