The times., 1898-02-06
They Dominate All Thin Fab
rics, and Are Lovely.
BRaIDs. AND EMBROIDERIEs
Spring Millinery Promises Wide
Br.tns-N4asy Women win Discard
yefls-Neok Sa>hes TO Continuelh
Favor--rhe Old-rime Tulle Ruehe
VIII BE Revived.

talk about challiS could easily fllt the
whole OF our fashion letter, for here
they are from the first batch OF soft
and tempting beauties, and any woman
can take her choice, paying in money
all the way from 80 TO Is cents yard.
A challis is perfectly safe and solid
investment for spring, summer or aa-
tumn wear, such fine artistic feeling
have the manufacturers shown in the
dyeing, decoration and weaving of their
new output, that it is almost impossible
10 buy a truly ugly enc. and if the en-
pensiVe brands are the most beautiful
the cheaper ones are far and away the
most dun able.
Candor and experience compels the
warning that if any woman is deciding
10 buy a challis at 65 cents a yard, let
her select II in pretty pale tone, and
keep il as one Of her calling and church
toilets exclusively. These high priced
WeaVeS are delicious to the touch and
graceful as china silk, but they are
back again with the charming satin
stripe. and they will not bear up under
the stress of shopping tours, travel,
etc
Their smartest manifestation of color
is a clear cardinal red, with black
satin stripe. The other popular tones
in which custlier chaliis are seen is met
al blue, forest green and silvery gray
Almost without exception they are
frightened by white or black polka
dots not all of one size. but large and
small dots mingled. A gOodly per cent
are ffowered tastefully in small rose
buds or simply fine rows Of pale green
smilaX vine, running between rather
wide lavender. or pink, or blue bands
The sturdier challis have all the good
colors and figures possible, but tend to
darker tones.
The satin stripe is getting its inning
everywhere, for the ginghanls are per-
Naded with il, greatly TO their beautifi-
cation, and the last to catch this agree
able infection are the lawns. Ink and
paper are not the proper mediums in
which TO tell of the early blooming
dimities, dotted swiss, organdie lisse
and that last combination of weayeS
silk and cotton wrought together. All
these things are more delicate of quail
ity and more aTtistically lovely of dec
Grafton than ever before, and TO gar
nish them are the prettiest rulings,
made of narrow white net. with SIM
pie cord edge and footing of white point
desprit quite the cheapest things in
trimmings seen so far.
This spring is also going to Introduce
very attractive embroideries. done in
butter-colored thread or white cotton,
while yards and yards of white wash
braid is destined to garnish those new
comers, figured pique and madras
CLOTH To add to these glories fit only
for May wearing, are the ribbons that,
whether in sash or beading width. are
coming in-of taffeta with very elabo-
rately pinked edges.
While in some show windows the re-
minders of the season to come are push
ing aside all thoughts of winter shop
ping, the miIliners are getting in readi-
ness their surprises. In the interme-
date season all the fresh hats are Of
pale gray felt, wide-brimmed. small
crown shapes. trimmed with few folds
of velvet or bows of ribbon and three
tall plumes fastened to one side of the
crown. These are to be the Lenten
styles until Easter Sunday viii touch
the muslin roses into bloom Then, If
rumor is worth anything, We are going
to wear strange straw shapes. having
the crowns solidly buried in closely
rnassed flowers and fuller clouds than
ever of ostrich plunes.
AS a sort of foretaste of these grand
eurs the double -brimmed hat in gray is
offered this week. AS can be judged
by this. and a reputable millincr stands
sponsor for it, wide brims viii continue
10 be worn off the face. with nlumes
curling gracefully about. Here we
have strings in addition, and they
promise to cut a figure in April modes,
though the fact of the matter is they
are frequently seen now. as well as the
white tulle ruche against the hair, typi-
cal of this bonnet. Already at the the
aters little bonnets are seen tied by lace
strings under the chin.
lza lf
that are now being worn in admirable
simplicity White and black lace wells
are all but entirely out of style, and no
cOquetries of adjusting the little face
masks are any longer induiged in
Black dotted nets, or nets woven in
fiat checks and spots are smoothly
drawn from brow to chin, While as
many women as have the compilations
and smoothly banded hair with which
to face sun and wind, go without wells
entirely.
Perhaps interest in wells has waned
before the all-absorbing topic of new
ways of decorating the neck. 1t is
really wonderful the amount of trim
mings women insist on winding about
their throats For the moment it is
proper to tie your big soft silk crayat
under the left side of the chin and let
one end fall to the bust the other to
the ear must not have wide loops, how
ever. and the newest cravats are made
of soft piece silk, edged with half
inch wide border of black or white
shirred chiffon.
Some truly lovely neck sashes are
made of sheer white swiss, having
hermstitcEed edges and cream lace
ends, and these are tied to the left
under small tapping collars of white
embroidered muslin, or maybe under
two collar points, faced with ermine.
Cravats like these are worn indoors,
and not with coats alone, and they are
going to be worn right straight on
through the season up to Easter. and
far beyond, because white swiss fulr-
in-hand neckties, having broad, short
ends, edged with narrow lace. are in
among the the lawns and muslins, etc.
Meantime. just as we have got accus-
toned to seeing our women wearing
anywhere from three to twenty fur
tails under their chins, fashion has
turned on her heel and declared that
the tails must now hang from the
back of the neck, and so the greatest
majority will be worn until it is time
to lay furs aside.
The indications are that as the
weather breaks women viii pass from
fur to feather-trimmed wraps. and
then to those decorated with silk mus
lin or chiffon ruchings. Except di-
rectly in front. the spring wraps will
be quite short. Find conviction for
this statement in the sketch given of a
little braided coat that is going to
Florida the first of February. 1t is a
mastic cloth. braided in green, with
what are called stole fronts, and a
broad neck decoration made only of
crisp silk muslin ruffies. Inside the
coat is lined with yellow. In fact ev-