The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-25
for dunlnen

In mn nther swav can table linen, hand
kercJ,iefs efcs lie decorated so eheaply
and daintily as with drawn work. Shiie
nice drawn-work is expensive, OWING ~
the amount of time required to execute
a piece. the material-aside from the iap-
ric-costs but a few cents. As the WORK
wears well if properly Numbered anu
cared for. ii is not4economy to use cheap,
unevenly woven material.
kind of linen known as round
thread" is the best material Tor most
purposes. This may be had either very
fine or quite heavy; the weave Is tue
same. the difference being in the weight.
medium weight German embroldery
linen is recommended for dresser ana
sideboard scarfs, lunch cloths, etc. Linen
sheeting is much used for the same pur-
pose. also for skirt trimming. aprons aho
underwear. The sheeting comes sisn''
nine and ten quarters wide and sens ~
ID cents to 81 80 a yard. j.,
Shirt bosom linen and pieces heaVlis
dressed should never be used, no mater
how beautiful they are. The threaes :
ant TO cut in drawing and the cotton WIZ
cut in working.
Linen lawns. areeDretty ana oaihts anN
much used for small pieces
In laying off a piece of work measule
carefully with a tape measure or sa'u-
stick and draw threads to cut py' hnea9
ure the hem and draw two OF 'hiee
threads for hemstitching. 1t the piece -
to have an all-around border, count u
enaca between the hem and where you
rant tbe border to begin and draw a
thread. count the threads in the space
,a--- -.1 ~ 1po W one NOW YOU
have the work spaced and it viii be a
small task to draw the threads II thes =
round and evenly woven
Drawn work should be hhlsheu WIZ
fringe or hemstitehed hem.
When the threads are drawn turn the
hem and cut out the corners on the hrst
fola leaving the same width to turn IN
as Won have for the edge of the hem-
This gives an even thickness all around.
Now haste the hem, taking care that the
upper turned edge meets the drawn me
evenly and that the open squares at the
corners meet
IT is better to fasten the corners wen,
then haste toward the centre. Hold the
work as in plain hemmins, ana take the
stitch from left to right.
Never leave a knot in the end of the
working cotton; bring the thread along
inside the hem and fasten with a put
tenhole stitch. Take up four to SIX
Understanding to the weight OF me
material-draw the thread through. then
pass the needle again behind the threads
and into the fabric, taking a stitch as IN
plain hemming.
Double hemstitching is done in the same
way as far as the stitch is concerned. Al
ter the plain hemstitching is finished re-
verse the material and take upon the
needle half of the threads of the TWO al
Joining stitches. 1t will not be necessary
to count the threads. you will take about
the right number if you are careful.
The fchu cape is steadily gaining favor,
particularly In black materials Traverse
effects are used. but these are shown IN
round eapes. The chief forms OF the new
fichu eapes show tishtly-fittins backs. the
bust covered with very wide ends OF dueh-
esse. lined with a colcr that form a KIND
Of blouse to the waist. and then fail m 70
the feet. These capes extend over the
arms only in the wider parts. which are
arranged to fall a little over the back IN
deep plaits. Heliotrope is the favored
c3lor for the founee usually seen on the
lower part OIL BLACK QttlcSSC 1APSo, tAAS
lounee is yelled with black lace, and the
cape is richly rirnmed with passemen-
terie.
Openwork capes are shown with pointed
hacks and fronts in bead passementerie
that extends over the rather large rep
bows marking the waist. Sometimes the
front bows are made from an END that
escapes from the bow at the chin. The
= .--~o1 L. ~afhnr hioh in tho
back and small in front. 1t is a compli-
Gated affair. composed of black gauze
ribbon with a satin edge and stripe ar
ranged to look like l~engthwise stripes, but
in a way that does not interfere with the
border stripe
Very handsome capes are shown with
ruches composed of two gauze ruches anu
a taffeta ruche inserted between them, the
whole. arranged in waves Sometimes, but
not often. the back of these ichu capes is
composed Of two wide plaits of silk or
MORE. The average length of these gar
meuts is Is inches in front and a little
more or less in the back.
An elegant model for a fichu cape con-
sists of a rather short yoke of MORE We
lours. the edges marked with a relief
border. From this yoke falls a double
gauZe ruche, the upper poIlfon SAoAtel
than the lower. The front ends of the
neck ruehe are covered on each st-e by Il
satin loop; there are wide loops with 1ea
buckles in the back and front. The back
and front portions of the cape are held
together by a covered elastic around the
waist.
Gaufre silk is used extensively in open
work capes as a foundation, and as ruch-
ing. An attractive model, about rs inches
long in both front and back, very short
over the arms. had a gaufre under por-
ton. trimmed with a ruching OF gauze
ribbon on the edge. The neck ruching of
the same material ended in front beneath
a long loop and end on either. side. The
upper portion of this cape was of small
black braid in various figures embroidered
on the edge with black enamel.
Sometimes these borders are very e1ris-
tically arranged: for instance. one open
work cape showed stripes composed of a
border of Individual l~engthwise stripes,
the interspaees showing serpentine figures
encroaching upon one another, the whole
narrowing down at the ends. Of these
strips other forms were composed and
filed with sheer, figured material The.
upper portion of this cape was finished on
the edge with tbs between which satin
bows were set. The under portion was