davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1898-01-09

They are rather slim, apologetic II
fairs that often come from under al
enormous hat nodding and waving wit
Grape bows. The Grape bonnets worl
by elderly women, too. always strike on
as being too elaborate and fussy.
DRESSY GOWN
A dressy black gown worn by WON
an who had given UP her veil was mad
of a heavy quality of cashmere.
The skirt was a moderately wide go
det, with narrow panel of black nous
seline de sole inserted. 1t was heavily
embroidered with dull jet and was bor-
dered with narrow strips of black AS
trakhan. On both sides of the panel
there were appliQues of dull Jet passe-
menterie.
The corsage fitted close into the curves
of the figure back and front. 1t had a
long yoke of violet satin covered very
full with black mousseline de sole that
merged into a point at the front of the
corsage.
A narrow strip of black astrakhan
edged the yoke and continued down
both sides of the point. They formed
a continuous line with the fur bands on
the skirt, so as to give the effect of
princess gown. A broad sash ribbon of
black gros grain was drawn through n
square, dull jet buckle at the front of
the corsage. 1t continued around the
bottom of the corsage and was tied at
the back with long ends reaching nearly
to the bottom of the skirt. Appliques
of dull jet passementerie trimmed the
front of the corsage just below the yoke.
The collar was high, straight affair
made of violet satin. 1t was covered
so heavily with the jet passementerie
that the satin was hardly discernible.
At the back of the collar there was
high frill of black mousseline de sole.
The sleeves of the black cloth had very
little fullness at the top. They were
trimmed at the bottom with appliques
of dull jet passementerie.
CREPE COLLET
A chic collet worn by woman in
deep mourning was made entirely of
Grape 1t had three circular overlap
ping frills of the Grape that extended
to the waist line. Around the neck there
was a tall, full tour-de-cou of plated
Grape outlined with a narrow widows
ruche. The ends of the tour -de-cou ex-
tended nearly to the bottom of the skirt.
Of course, under all of this light Grape
there was a circular cape of quilted
black silk that made this collet prac-
tical for winter wear.
There is more of a display of Grape
gowns in the modiste's windows than
The herald., 1898-01-09
NINE. SEMBRICH
One of the Richest Prima Donnas.
Her Display of Jewels

Since Nine. Patti used to have two de-
tectives standing in the wings of the
Academy of Music to watch her dia-
monds as soon as she stepped from the
view of the audience, there has been no
such display of diamonds as Nine Sem
brich has made at her concert appear
ances in New York. On the night Of
her first appearance she was sparkling
with the stones, and more remarkable
was the number which she wore at the
first Astoria concert. There the upper
part of her gown was literally covered
with pins of different designs.
Two necklaces which she has already
worn are so remarkable that the woman
who owned one of them would deserve
to be congratulated, and the possession
of the two is an unusual piece of good
fortune. One of these necklaces is a
thick collar of diamonds, and the other.
somewhat more elaborate in design, is
composed of sapphires and diamonds.
There are six sapphires of unusual size
placed at equal distances in a circle of
diamonds, and from these Is suspended
another string of diamonds, which is
caught up at the points, in which sap
phires are placed. She has already worn
two diamond tiaras.
Nine. Sembrich is one of the richest of
the prima donnas, and for the past ten
years has been receiving larger sums
for her services than have been paid to
other singers. Even in Germany, where
the salaries are not large, Nine. Sem
brich gets $1,000 and $1,000 for a perform
ance, and in one German city she re-
ceived for one concert an amount which
is said to be the largest ever paid to any
singer in that country. This was for an
appearance at one of the Gewandhaus
concerts in leipsc Usually, singers are
willing to appear there for a very small
sum, so great is the distinction consid-
cred. But Nine. Sembrch received 5000
marks, or $3.50, for singing two songs, and
that incident is remembered in GERMANY
as the one which touched the high water
mark. So. Nine. Sembrch is able to af
ford duplicate necklaces and tiaras. Her
toilettes off the stage are unusually
The herald., 1898-01-09
ST. CIotildes I was particularly struck

st. Clotildes I was particularly struck
by the number of handsome mourning
toilettes. st. Clotilde's is situated right
down in the very midst of the aristo-
cratic quarter of the Faubourg st. Ger
main, that has never been deserted by
the old aristocratic families for the
Champs Elysees quarter.
The IL o'clock mass at st. Clotilde's
is attended by some of the very SWELL
est families in Paris and the swellest
costumes. Many of them are people
that lost relatives in the disastrous
Charity bazaar last spring, which ac-
counts for the great number of mourn
ing toilets one notices.
A stylish black gown worn by young
girl of twenty was made of cashmere
The skirt was a godet with rather gen.
erous flare that fitted close over the
hips. The fullness at the back was
laid in two narrow fiat box -plaits
Around the bottom of the skirt there
were three broad bias folds of Grape
graduating in width.
MOURNING BLOUSE
The corsage was a sort of blouse of
the cashmere, fastening at the left
shoulder and under-arm seams. 1t was
trimmed with three bias folds Of Grape,
put on in the form of a round yoke.
Around the edge of the lowest fold
there was a circular ruffle of the cash
mere faced with Grape. A gathered
strip of Grape was caught up to the top
of this frill with a bow and continued
down to the narrow Grape ceinture. The
sleeves were moderate in size and were
finished at the wrists with narrow folds
of the Grape.
Another gown trimmed in Grape was
made of black serge. The skirt was a
godet, with rather a generous flare. 1t
was trimmed around the bottom with
bias folds of the Grape, that formed a
point at the left side. Another narrow
bias fold of the Grape followed the line
of the cloth. The corsage was u sort
of blouse with short double basques
faced with Grape. Three bias folds Of
the Grape formed q short, square yoke
back and front and extended over the
tops of the sleeves to give the effect of
epaulettes.
The high straight collar was covered
with the narrow folds. There was Just
the slightest suspicion of fullness in the
tops of the sleeves. Around the wrists
there was a finish of the Grape folds
Very young girls here wear Grape veils
The herald., 1898-01-09
German Girls Blunder

An American girl who recently studied
in Germany tells of a German girl who
was studying English, and who used to
write letters in English to her parents.
One day the German girl handed a LETT
ter to her, saying: Here is the letter
which I have written to my mother. I
want you to read 1t over and see II 1t is
properly written" The letter was all
right, excepting the closing phrase.
which read as follows: God pickle and
keep YOU" An investigation proved
that the young German woman, in look
ing for a synonym for preserve" had
come across pickle"
The herald., 1898-01-09
suit was Z convincing object lesson q
them and their customers alike.


The periodical folding-bed accident
has sufficient frequency to warrant the
use Of q little caution concerning these
articles Of furniture. Modern house.
keepers who have room for open beds
prefer them to the closed kind, because
of their added cleanliness and health
fulness. but in the crowded apartments
and rooms. where space is very much at
q premium, the folding bed must, and
does, serve a useful office. Those that are
adjusted by springs and weights are at
once the easiest to handle and the most
dangerous to occupy. The simple ex-
pedient OF putting q stout staple in the
floor, where the end touches It, and at
taching similarly stout hook to this
same support. uniting the two when the
bed is open. does away at once with all
possibility Of an accident.-New York
Evening Post.
The herald., 1898-01-09
Mrs. E. Blaine win Not See Tradesmen


Mrs. Emmons Blaine, like many Of
Chicago's "300"-or is it ''299?"-has no
dealings with tradesmen. They might
communicate with her by telephone, but
not IL she knew it in advance. She has
private secretary. woman, who meets
all tradesmen and keeps their contami-
mating presence from her mistress. Last
month the Blaine mansion needed new
library table. A cabinet maker was told
to bring designs. He did SO, and met the
secretary, who sat with him in one room
while the woman who wanted the table
sat in plain sight in the next room. The
cabinet maker explained to the secretary
the details Of the table he proposed to
build and the secretary rose every few
minutes and repeated the explanations
to her mistress. Sometimes the latter
would make suggestions or ask ques-
tions, which the secretary would convey
to the workman and then return with his
answers to Mrs. Blaine.-Chicago Paper.
The herald., 1898-01-09

regard to rank or color. Rag dolls are
not favorites with the doctor; still he
does his duty, and mends them up when
they come to him for treatment. What
The herald., 1898-01-09

numerous and beautiful, for dressing in
st. Petersburg, where Nine. Sembrich
has spent much of her time during the
past ten years, is as much of an art as it
is in Paris or in New York.-New York
The herald., 1898-01-09

ever the disease, it is generally cured in
a week, and the rejuvenated patients
sent back to their homes in perfect
health.-Chicago Times Herald.
The herald., 1898-01-09
Rising From a Chair

An observing person suggests with
much truth that few women cultivate q
graceful manner of rising from a chair.
Probably nine women out of ten in ris-
ing from a seat shift their weight from
one foot to another in the act of rising.
and start of upon the wrong foot. The
proper way is to rest the weight upon
one foot while still sitting, holding the
other lightly upon the floor. Now rise
by pressing down hard upon the foot
that has previously been bearing the
weight, stand erect and still for mere
second to get poise. and start of lightly
upon the free foot. II there Is to be a
turn In the walk stop with all the weight
upon the foot that is in advance, rest
only the toe Of the rear foot upon the
ground, then turn around smoothly by
transferring the weight to the free foot,
making the turn entirely upon the balls
Of the feet, with the heels scarcely touch
ing the floor. A turn like this is as rare
as 1t Is graceful, yet 1t can be acquired
in half an hours practice. A perfectly
graceful woman Is graceful in every
thing she does-in the pose Of her head,
the unfolding Of her hands. in her walk,
In the way she rises and sits. AS to the
last little can be said, and pretty way
Is easily demonstrated. What not to do
is to fall heavily upon a seat like badly
jointed doll without nerves. A sensitive
woman feels her way daintily, unbend-
ing with a slow. smooth motion till she
appears to have settled down safely.
Such a one will know how to rise also,
and can make the difficult transition be-
tween the chair and the doorway with
out one of those awkward jerks and
starts that render half the feminine ore
alton laughing stocks upon public thor
oughfares. and especially in public con-
veyances.-Chicago Chronicle.
The herald., 1898-01-09

The Audubon society Of Milwaukee
took the proper way to arouse public in
terest, by preparing an exhibit of hats
and bonnets from which all wings and
feathers were excluded whose collec-
ton injured bird life. 1t secured the
of the milliners Of the city,
and in this way the interested class dis
covered the possibilities of this limita-
ton in trimming, and their patrons were
more willing to take the bonnets from
recognized authorities than from those
whose sincerity was undoubted, but
whose skill and taste might be prejudiced
by their principles. About thirty millin-
ers assisted in the exhibit, and the re-
The herald., 1898-01-09

In households where not only economy,
but the real art Of cooking Is practiced.
the water in which rice is boiled Is never
thrown away. The major part OF the
nutriment goes into this liquid, and its
addition to a soup is both palatable and
valuable.
The herald., 1898-01-09
HOUSEHOLD HINTS


An agreeable variety in the method Of
serving caulifiower is to boil 1t In beef
stock. In that case. Of course. the white
sauce Is not used with 1t, q little plain
melted butter being poured over 1t be-
fore serving.
The herald., 1898-01-09
'NEw FASHIONS IN MOURNING APPEAR EVERY SEASON"

there used to be, and new fashions in
mourning appear every season.
NINA GOODWIN.
The herald., 1898-01-09

The medical value Of watercress, ac-
cording to a medical paper. Is not suffi-
ciently appreciated. A London physi-
clan asserts that the large consumption
of cress in that metropolis. where it Is
sold In vast quantities at the markets
every morning, is an important contrib
utive factor to the noticeable health Of
London.
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
WOODFORD REACHES FRANCE.

Chivalrous spaniards Stone tho window
of His Train.
Hendaye, Spanish Frontier, April %
General Stewart l.. Woodford, the
United States minister to Spain, ac-
companied by his staff and others.
reached the frontier at 8 o'clock this
morning in safety after some exciting
experiences. The Spanish police at
tempted to capture member Of the
legation and at Valladollid, the train
was attacked.
Mr.. Moreno was the member of the
United States legation signaled out by
the Spanish police for capture on the
ground that he is a subject of Spain,
but the attempt was frustrated, owing
to the presence of mind of the minis
ter.
At Valladollid the United States min
ister's train was attacked and stoned.
Windows were broken and the civil
guards were compelled to protect his
carriage with drawn swords. General
Woodford, however, slept throughout
the disturbance.
The Morena incident threatened to
be serious. The Spanish police made a
determined effort to capture Mr.. Mo-
reno, but General Woodford stood in
the doorway of the carriage, declaring
he should not be removed by force.
A detachment of police accompanied
the train from Toloso to San Sebastian,
where the police officials left on see
ing that the general was determined
to maintain his rights.
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
DOCTORS DON'T DENY 1T.
The frank testimony of a
famous physician.

afflicted with the rheumstism for three
years, and had taken as she had informed
me, more than one hundred dollars worth
of medicine to obtain relief, yet without
any beneficial result. / advised her to try
a bottle of Dr.Ayer's Sarsapariila and told
her that if 1t failed to do her good, would
refund the money. a short time after.
ward, learned that 1t had cured her, and
a ncighbor of hers similarly afflicted was
also entirely relieved of his complaint by
its use. This is the universal result of the
administration of your sarsaparilla. 1t
is without exception, the best blood puri-
fer with which am acquainted"
There Is no other similar medicine can
show a similar record. Others have imi-
tated the remedy. They can't initiate the
record. DR.. Ayers Sarsaparilla has the
friendship of the physician and the favor
of the family, because 1t cures 1t fulhlls
all promises made for it, 1t has healed
thousands of people of the most malignant
diseases that can mutilate mankino.
Nothing has ever superseded IT and moth
ing ever will until medicine is MADE
that can show a record of cures greater in
number and equal in wonder 10 those
wrought by Dr. Ayers Sarsaparilla d.
AYERS Curebook, story of cures told by
the cured, is sent free on request by the
l. c. Aver Company, Lowell Mass Write
for 1t.
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
THE BOYS ALL READY.
TROOPS FROM COLORADO.
"re want to Go to War Than the Presi-
oeht VIII Call For-Muitia Will be
Given First Chance.

Denver, April 23.-The Republican
this morning says:
When Governor Adams calls for vol
uHteers ne will find the national guard
OF the state fully prepared to go to the
front. With very few executions every
member of the guard whose name ap-
pears upon the roster of the various
companies throughout the state Is
ready and anxious to go to war. They
nave been in readiness for some days
past and are prepared to move within
1ew hours after the call has been
issued.
When it was announced day before
yesterday that the guards throughout
the country We're likely to be called
upon within the next few days the
members in this state perfected their
nnal arrangements to respond to the
governors call. There was not much
TO be done, as the preliminary arrange
ments had already been made.
1t was thought that the President
would issue the call for the guards
yesterday, but about noon it was
learned that the call would not be
issued before today. A telegram from
Washington stated that the President
had decided not to call for any volun-
teers until the time had expired for
Spain to answer to the ultimatum sent
1t in regard to the evacuation of the
island of Cuba
When General Moses retired last
evening he had everything in readiness
for the mobilization of the entire guard
in this city within a very few hours
after Governor Adams issues the call
for the men. He stated yesterday that
he had so perfected his plans that ev
cry company in the state. artillery, in
fantry and cavalry, could be in this
city within twelve hours after the call
for them had been issued by the execu-
tive head of the state.
The Information was given out from
the governors office yesterday after
noon that the guard of the state would
be recognized first when the call for
volunteers comes. That being the ar
rangement, it will shut out everyone
else in the state who had hoped to go
south on the strength of the first call
for the troops. Under the apportion-
ment of the volunteers, Colorado is en-
titled to send but 1859 men to the
front on the first call. AS there are
more guardsmen than that on the ros-
tiers of the companies, some Of them
will have to remain at home, If all
pass the examination that they will
have to undergo when they re-enlist.
1t is possible there may be several
hundred guardsmen who will be un-
able to pass the rigid examination, and
in that case 1t will allow that number
of other men to step in and take their
places. Who will be permitted to fill
the places of those who could not pass
the examinations has yet to be de-
cided. The manner of selecting those
volunteers has not been determined.
1t is not definitely known whether the
call for troops from Colorado will in
clude the cavalry and light artillery.
When Governor Adams gets his call
from Washington If it does not specify
whether the troops shall include all
three Of the organizations in the state
he will telegraph to Washington for
further instructions.
The silver lance., 1898-04-29

whsn DR.. Aver announced his sar:apa-
ylila to the world, he at once found the
phvsicians his friends. Such . remedy
vas what they had looked for, and they
we're prompt to appreciate its merits and
prescribe it, Perhaps no medicine-known
a ! patent medicine-is so generally ad-
Iiuistered and prescribed by physicians as
Dr. AYERS Sarsaparilla for blood diseases,
and diseases of the skin that indicate
taiuted condition of the blood. Experience
has proved it to be specific in such
diseases, and sores of long standing, old
uicers. chronic rheumatism, and many
ether like forms of disease have yielded to
the persevering use of DR.. Ayers sarsapar-
liza Alter other medicines had utterly failed
The testi monials received from ply sicians
70 the value of this remedy would NIL a
volume. Here is one leaf signed by Rich'd
4. lawrence, NJ. D., Baltimore, Nd
SIT affords me pleasure to bear testimony
10 the success which your preparation OF
sarsaparil1a has had in the treatment of
cuta ueous and other diseases arising from
q vitiated condition of the blood. Were IT
necessary, l might give you the names OF
at least 6fty individuals who have been
cured Of long g-standsng complaints simply
BY the administration of DIR. Ayers Sarsa-
pa-rilla. One very remarkable instance e
was that Of a quite old woman who had lived
at Catonsville. near this city. She had been
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
A missionary Medicine.

Cleanliness begins within. II a man isn't
clean inside. he is far from Godliness A
constipated sinner is a stencil in the nostrils
of the deity. whose food sours in
his stomach and whose liver is leaden. can't
help looking at the world hatefully with
1aundiced eye, and conJuring up evil thoughts
in his tortured brain. Cleanliness of person
begets cleanliness of thought. Cascarets.
candy cathartic Is the missionary medicine
which puriies mems bodies and minds.
Pure, fragrant palatable. mild and positive,
they clean out the Intestinal canal. stimulate
the liver and strengthen the bowels. Then a
man enjoys again feeling Of charity and
brotherly love for his fellows and recon-
mends Others to take Cascarets and be as
happy as he.
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
Self-pity means loss

should be gone. Self-pity means loss
of moral force"
She had struck the right note. While
we hold our ailments, physical or men
tai or spiritual, at arms length and
fight them we keep brave. When we
sink down and look at them. in all their
hideousness and wall "Woe is mev' we
lose the last atom of courage and be-
come weak and cowardly
We may have trials, and heavy ones.
but as we value our moral strength of
character and force of will, let us re-
fuse to utter the whining Me, too.'
The silver lance., 1898-04-29
CASE OF "ME TOO.
..f.Pity Too Often Means Loss Of
~ Moral Force.

~ Moral Force.
III love sympathy. Perhaps that
We Tor the fact that few Of us
secou,u,.a ,,..an TO another's tale OF woe
VIII Ginning in with an account of
wftnou. grieyances, says a writer in
Harper's Bazar. hoe n baby bro+ber
A seems to envy him the sympa-
ai"ay ayowered upon him when he has
thy sa;c sI As soon as the mother tries
the .ha eo the fretful baby and speaks
TO o,uaiy SOL. TO him a small hand pulls
pityins and a plaintive little voice
her us. an ME. too, mammaw
sugset ,at MANY of us go through the
~ "a with a pitiful ME, tool! con-
wol,u w.i,, on our lips? The heart know
s.anus ..s own bitterness and the soul its
etn ~, .r;aIs and it is hard not to cry
own ...ie toor' when we see lavished
, ou. others the sympathy for which
upVn, ,ong and of which we feel we
stand in need. - - =. ;s
81 silence, Every time we exercise
NJ habit of self-control we gain fresh
strength with which to control our
se,vas Last week | heard two women
talking, IeTHdps II NouAu ~ AiSeiNi
tho truth to say that one was talking,
,he other listening The listener had
racently been told by to specialist that
a course of long and severe surgical
treatment would be necessary to re-
,;ove her of a painful malady that had
,aten elasticity from her step and the
roundness from her figure. The talker
herself had not been very well, and
aYniated upon her uncomfortable feel
mos and the many disagreeable things,
snch as dieting and regular exercise,
ber musician had prescribed for her
case.
"you don't know how hard it is to
have TO suffer so much" she COM
niained. "You have lost flesh, but you
are well, aren't you? You never COM
plain"
81 seldom have cause for complaint"
was the cheerful reply. 81 am. indeed,
,orry you are so far from we'll"
Later | took my friend to task for
her reticence on the subject of her
health.
..Why did you not tell her." queried
I ..that her suffering is as nothing to
yours|
BECAUSE" she answered, 81 will not
allow myself to grumble. 1t becomes a
habit which annoys others and harms
yourself. l simply dare not do it. 1
will not even pity myself. If did l