Omaha daily bee., 1898-08-14
REIGN OF THE SHIRT WAIST.

JcwcIry and other
NEW YORK, Aug. 1l,--Every now and
then the shirt waist executes a MASTER
ly vancouver and thereby takes a fresh grip
on that elusive force known as feminine
popularity. Here we have in the dog days
an unexpected novelty in wash blouses
sprung on us. and a tremendous hllip given
the August trade. If you wish to be in the
very innermost heart of things you must
wear a white shirt made of muslin, silky
rainsook, equally silk batiste, cambria that
is as crisp and bright as satin or cross
barred muslin that is almost as fine as Swiss
while 1t Is easily softer. Now the white
blouse that acts the part Of band master,
captain or leader to all other of its genus
Is. hand made. Howsoeycr neatly your ma
chine-sewed shirt may be, 1t strikes no envy
or admiration to the heart Of the girl who
sits behind you at an open-air musical or
polo match; it may have its merits, but 1t
is an abomination in this age trained to
artistic effect.
Really the shirts OF the moment might,
in their ornamentation, be twin sisters to
the most luxurious lingerie and the loveliest
seen we're conspicuous for the elaborate and
beautiful stitchery displayed upon them.
They have oddly shaped revers and wide
sailor. collars. made alternately of insertion
ana SITlpS OIL SIuDIOlutItu HluSllu, ne
thread-like t,icks run in clusters between
bands OF lace. Lace edgings are whipped on
everywhere and the revers oftenest turn
back from a sailors vest made wholly of
transparent inserting.
So much cobwebby loyeliness must be
worked over something stable, and in nearly
all cases a tight-ftting silk slip is the foun-
dation. The slip is sleeveless and sometimes
cut low in the neck. Many women only use
a fancifulo corset cover of white lawn under
such shirtwaist, and then over the blouse
put on a short tailed, wide opened duck
coat. These daintiIy made garments are also
n in vogie for use with cloth tailor dresses,
their extreme ~fragility seemingly showing in
coquettish contrast with the heavy wooden
goods.
" Black and white, whether one is in grief
or not, is always a tempting combination,
and about summer hotels OF a morning we
see many women wearing hand wrought
shirts of black washing silk, having rather
wide reyers' made of white lace insertion,
whipped together and run through with mar
row black ribbons.
Since we have fallen on the discussion
of blouses, it will be as well to recommend,
to youngish women, the pinafore shirt,
which really broke it's shell early in the
spring, but is only now getting the patron
age it deserved. A %pinafore shirt fastens
UP the back, in true childish style, is COM
posed of horizontal rows of tucks and in
serting and finishes off at the neck with
an ear-clipping collar and a stock of lace.
Here and there we note that the shirt
WASTED woman makes modest excursions
into the realm of color and hardly any
thing could be prettier than a pink of blue
batiste blouse, topped with a large double
-l I--- a-Is, T11-~ turN
parts are of white lawn, crested with lace,
and every seam in the waist is put to-
gether with beading. Quite as attractive
is the shirt cut on the night gown model.
1t has a round transparent yoke of lace,
gathered in to the throat by a colored rib
bon and deep lace cuffs to correspond.
II anybody wants to know what to wear
with such shirts let her be advised to use
her white duck, pique or muslin skirts In
combination and rest assured she will be
suitably costumed for a summer wedding
reception or a dance.
The Senoritn Jacket.
There is no use authorizing any fashion
for the American woman as to whether the
front of the dress waist is hooked or but
toned fiat and Quakerlike over the bust.
Realizing that charm of dress lies chiefly
in drapery and things that hang full and
light. she gently persists in her own wise
way of advocating a fullness. Latterly her
seal of approval, which is practical adoption
has been given a trifie called, for want oil
a better name, a senorita jacket. For even
ing dresses they are made in light satin
embroidered thickly with a small floral
pattern worked first on chiffon and ther
laid on the satin.
The jacket itself is cut off square just
above the bust and below are three pleatet
lace frills, the lowest of which only come:
to the waist line. Slim women appear t
great advantage when thus arrayed ant
many are the Bingham gowns, foulards ant
wash muslins made after this fashion. DC,
casionally, In place of cutting the JACKIE
off square in front, it fits over the bus
in the form of two large disks, each as bis
as a dinner plate, sloping up and arounC
from the arm hole. In place of the rict
and expensive applique embroidery patterns
in narrow gathered ribbons are outlined OF
the Jacket, A black satin senorita jacket
prettily decorated in Jet or steel beading
is one of the wise woman's purchases. Sh'
wears 1t with her evening dresses to Civ,
them an air of novelty or richness Just a
they may need touching up.
Hoods, Collars and Stocks.
One of the summer whims of womankin
are pretty chiffon hoods TO wear of a
evening when driving in an open carriag
10 balls or dinners in the country. Crimpe
chiffon, in any ~favorite color, can be usec
and the pattern is that of a Quaker bonnie
or a Normandy bonnet. A wire frame, c
one of whalebone. is what the chiffon
mounted on and full killed skirts of Ii
downy material are allowed to fall out a
around on the shoulders. go ethereal Is tn
headgear that it places no undue weight O
the most artistic, chignon, the skirts ia
costly over bare shoulders, and with Ion
chiffon strings the protecting cloud ties vi
der the wearer's chin.
Collars remain so ~absurdly high that IL
life of the short-necked woman is one lu
modification of the flesh at the altar
fashion, while a sleeve that ends RATIONAL
IT, ~