The record-union., 1898-12-04

A handsome black vicuna gown just
completed is made very striking by the
addition Of a yoke of reddish plum
colored velvet, striped with silver braid.
with an oddly shaped revers collar OF
black satin overlaid with richly Jetted
net and bordered with band of the
velvet striped with the braid. This
same decoration is carried down one
side Of the skirt and finishes the Wr1stS
of the very small mutton legt sleeves.
Breitschwanz is one Of the most
fashionable, pliable and smart looking
of the popular furs of the winter. From
Grunwaldt's are sent over fichu shaped
capes sack coats and cutaway jackets
formed of these rather short pelts-
There are some very pretty round
hats, toques and little capotes in white
French felt that make dainty even
ing headwear trimmed with soft white
ostrich plumes and toned with velvet
and shaded velvet roses in some becom-
ing color For woman who desires
some particularly dressy evening hat
or bonnet that is not gay or over youth
full in effect, one of cream white felt,
with black and white trimmings of vel
vet and feathers, is a most satisfactory
choice, and the hat is sure to go we'll
with almost any colored handsome ev-
ening costume or dressy demi-trained
toilet and smart wrap.
Some of the latest French basque
bodices have oddly scolloped, open
fronts with fancifully finished sleeves
tops to match.
Military effects continue to appear
among winter basque bodices, jackets
and coats.
Fancy belts, girdles. low cut peasant
waists over guimpes with sleeves to
match; chatelaine effects in silk cord,
handsome ribbon, jewels linked with
novel devices in gold or silver filigree,
or more solid designs frosted or deli
cately chased-au these accessories of
the toilet are in great vogue and con-
stant use, and the latest fancy is to
wear the costly gem set belt buckle at
the back of the waist. The jewel trim
med belts on some of the dress models
from Paris sometimes show two mar
row, oblong buckles joined by clasp
at the back.
The most novel weaves among the
new French cheviots show rather
wide diagonal and very rough look
ing but soft and silky surface. The
color effects are beautiful and in great
variety, and among the monochromes
is peculiarly handsome shade of sage
gray, also a new biscuit color of great
delicacy of tint, which combines most
effectively with the dark veIvets. or can
be used with effect as an accessory on
cloth costumes in Russian green, dam
son, italian red, heliotrope blue or any
of the numberless fashionable shades in
brown.
Nearly all the long Russian circular
capes are finished with deep founce
at the edge.
In deciding upon material for a cos
tune for general useful, as we'll as
dressy wear, one is this season tempted
by the very great variety of handsome
and decidedly novel fancy weaves in all
wool or in silk and wool mixtures. These
novelty goods as they are termed.
are In many cases most attractive. but
Where economy is considered they are
not wise or, in the end, a satisfactory
coming color, trimmed simply with mar
row braid and small tailor buttons. and
silk lined, if possible, is by all means
the first and best choice where the sea-
sons outfit is in any degree limited and
no great variety of gowns possible.
Fine velvety ladies' cloth in exquisite
light and deep colors is imported. IT is
figured with small or medium sized dots
in silk chenille.
All the new toques are much larger
than they have been for several years.
and the greater portion of them turn
back from the face directly in frcnt,
with a sparkling gem-set buckle hold
ing cluster Of soft, erect plunes. and
curved osprey feather in the center.
Unlike those worn seasons ago. the
new winter redingotes do not meet
down the front, but, while reaching TO
the skirt hem at the back, they, with
out few exceptions, have the rounded
fronts which fashion so much affects.
The smartest are sharply cut away,
sloping towards the back, and the SIX
inch f1ounce of fur-for it is distinctly a
nounce-renders the garment excep-
dionally Welghty and cumbersome The
extremely high and daring fur collar
and revers add further to the weight
OF the redingote. Even when a silk or
cloth hounce is substituted for fur the
weight of the garment is still consider
able The old, enveloping style, WITH
IFS long straight fronts, did not necessi-
Iate the wearing of a second skirt above
the silk petticoat, discarding which the
Wearer experienced less weight and con-
sequent fatigue. The front of the dress
IS, however, very much in evidence
where the writer redingote is concerned
For a carriage garment it serves a
smart and valuable purpose, but for
walking the new fur-fiounce styles seem
Objectionable.
Especially noteworthy are the dam
son dyes Of the winter which appear
among some of the most elegant and
desirable weayes in silk and wool, cam