The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-13
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eNhlDltlOn mas Deen Openco IN tnab Town winch
completely absorbs the attention OF the Wen
nese, offering, as IL does, an exposition Of art,
science. and trained imagination as applied TO
cookery. The exhibition is held in the great
rooms Of the So iensale. These are trans
formed into gardens, embellished with palms,
many-hued flowers. genuine grass, and s~pouting
fountains. The various nationaltties and
races of which the Austro- Hungarian en-.
pire Ia composed-Germans. Bohemians, Sla-
vacks. Poles, Ruthenlans. Slavonians, S~ervians.
Croats, Italians, Roumanians, Magyars, and
Gypsies-make possible a display of national
dishes that cannot be duplicated elsewhere,
except perhaps IL be in New York. There are
pyramids of cakes, landscapes of vegetables,
mountains of sweetmeats, Syrian capons,
Hungarian bears hams. chooses from every
province, oysters and Holsters from the Adri-
attic. Cooks of all the nationalities that compose
the empire prepare the different ailments for
served. COMPOSED OF fresh caviare, native oys.
ters, and Holsters, brown bread and butter, and
immense crowd as much on account OF its merit
as on. account of the opportunity II offers to
pass in review the crowd of beautiful female
walters who oflciate ut this particular function.
1t is claimed that this culinary exhibition was de-
vised by Emperor Francis Joseph as a diversion
that now menace him. 1t is not the first time
that the culinary art has been employed t~o.sootho
Sir Robert Waipoie, through the skiif Of a su.
perior cook. accomplished what brides OF money
and title could not effect; Careme vas a power
Talleyrand,. Metternich. and Aiexander /. OF
Russia employed him to weaken the resistance
OF recalcitrant dinlomatists, to whose blase ap::
petites he contributed q fresh sensation. OF
oil OF our Presidents Mr.. Arthur is the only one
whose gastronomic knowledge and taste ena.
ties. When he occupied the White House he
gave personal supervision to the cuisine, and
revealed to many the fact that corn dodgers
and pork and beans possessed only local cpl
curean significance.
The chartreuse derived its name from the re-
ligious order OF Chartists, or Carthusians. They
invented it to comply with the rules OF their
brotherhood. which forbade them to eat of
any food in which meat or any of the savory
extracts derived therefrom.were employed. The
result was a concoction in the form of a case,
made OF rice or macaroni, whose interior was
filed with various vegetables Incorporated with
a rich sauce in the making Of which no animal
juices were used. Modern innovation has trans.
formed the chartreuse into a pastry receptacle
or case for preparations OF meat, fish, fowl, or
fruit. In its present form, however, it passes
more generally under the name Of coudiRs. Now
that DR.. Schenck has explained his theory of
the influence of diet in determining sex. 1t is
possible that the chartreuse may assume its
original form as q strictly vegetable Concoc-
ton. Formerly this dish could be prepared
only during he months from May to August,
inclusive, inasmuch as the vegetables neces-
sary for its production were then in the de-
sired conditions of growth and tenderness. In
these days Of canned stuff it may be made every
month in the year. The evolution from: the
concoction called apple chartreuse to the
liqueur of that name was q very simple one.
called angelica as an ornamental incrustation
over apples cemented by jam. Brandy was
bath. After a time the proportions OF brandy
and angelica wore increased and the crust and
a fisp ass sTaadda a to siimIr iideid q torm. the Tk prep %ith
the addition of sugar, developed into the
liqueur called chartreuse, which has now such
a great, reputation. Chartreuse. to apply to, 1t
its modern Specification, Is not only a very de-
lightful but also u very decorative dish. 1t is
indiyicai in Vessel Of sutticient diameter vita
boiled rio" or mGcaroni TO the thickness OF an
inch. The inter Tor is then tnei with any sa :
DRY compound that may be selected. whether
OF meat. fish, fowl, scrambled eggs, oystcrs, or
vegetables, and the aperture sealed with rice
or macaroni. The Tin is then placed in Il hot
waite. bath and boiled for forty minutes. II the
tin in which il Is cooked is we'll creased the
out on the platter IN which it Is ssrved. This
is the simplest form of chartTtGse. II Is
capable OF any amount Of decoration az the
hands OF those endowed with taste and skill.
Z. +. Ames, in an article in Blacklrood's Mag
a-ine under the title Of "A Modern Arcadia"
gives an account OF a visit to a Mexican haci.
enda. The estate. which is situated IN u fertile
valley five or six thousand feet above the sea,
supplies all of the owners physical needs-fsh,
ulctt, IOWl, game, lTult' NIut, anu sphEito Al
| profusion. The visitor, who is invited to din
ner, which is served between Il and l o'clock,
is asked to come early. In that latitude this
means soon after sunrise. Several glasses of
mescal, a fiery liquor, open the proceedings.
These are followed by a visit to the garden TO
gigantic iIexes. Thirst is quenched with glasses
OF mild absinthe, cigarettes the while being
rolled for the visitor by the senorita and her
daughter, The house Is u large rambling
structure built about "A court. The dinner table
is laid in an upper corridor. where the family
and the entire staff of the estate. consisting Of
| twenty or thirty, sit dow together. Host and
staff AZ thu other. Those above the salt are
served with Burgundy made on the estate. white
water at ASSERTION. MialS and female servant.
soup. eggs and rice, dry and pink. cooked with
tomatoes. and some dishes OF meat or game
Cigars. a hammock. sleep. and a swollen head
bring the days visit 10 a conclusion.
Middle.class English people are kept on the
edge of lunacy by the suggestions OF culinary
journals devoted to their Instruction. The
recipes given by these publications, II fol.
lowed literally. would involve households in
complications which would require the services
of a dozen divorce courts 10 disentangle. Some
Of these technical journals are printed in the
interest of manufacturers OF special ingredients
without which the formulas would have no rea.
son for being. This SORT OF cookery teaching
appears to develop abnormal tatscs and appe-
tires among the English middle class. Whether
IL is II satire on this prcdispo5ition, or whether
the writer Of n pamphle entitled. why Not
Eat Insectsf' has collapsed II, ntaily in consc.
Quence Of Ia ing seriously the culinary recipes
printed weekly in British technical Journals,
his suggestion will secure II considerable fol
lowing from among those who, from the same
cause. are reduced to the same condition OF i'm
hecility "a himself. The author ~ tho pam,
phier divides his insects into two classes. foul
and clean feeders. The FIRST he rejects. hui the
second. whi"h are exclusively vegetable eaters.
he accepts rs clean, palatRblc, and wholesome.
In order 10 encourage amateurs, the author
gives some dishes in which insects may he en-
ployod. Among othcrs are Wash grubs fried
In the comb. "BrHisud beef with Calcrpillars,"
New carrots with wire worm sauce. "Devlllcd
chafrr grubs." stag beetle larNIr on toast"
"Gooseherry cream with sandhies,' "Curricd
CoCkchRfers." &c.
Claret. MS We name light French winCs, is a
term that has no significance IN Frame. In fact,
the word IS obsolete there, and has not been en-.
ployed in the sense in which we use il for more
than n hundred years. claret in France is