Evening star., 1898-04-30
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Accessories to the Costume Give the Smart
Effect.
Hroad Satin Gtrdles Fitted and Boned,
hiSh-Wnter Mark Collars and
Chic HINTS and Wells.
Special Correspondence If The Evening Star.

NEW YORK. April ~, 1888
The extremely fashionable woman must
make up her mind to look trifle con-
spicuous. Her gowns must be of some
novelty material, which cannot easily be
copied, either because it is expensive or
trying to most complexions, or of such
pattern that it would strike the ordinary
observer ugly. Then. too. her hats. al
though always giving one the idea at once
that they are extremely smart, must be
trifie unlike the hats one sees in even the
windows of the best shops. An article now
going the round of the exchanges asserts
that style depends on carriage and figure
but this is only true to certain extent.
Carriage can be acquired by nearly any
daughter of Eve who has in her vanity
enough to wish TO be of the electly clothed,
while figure can. to great extent. be con-
cealed or displayed by the manner in which
gown is made and worn.
This season every woman who does not
tip the scales al 200 pounds or thereabouts
can look fairly well, while those who are
conscious of d want of ayoirdupos can
conceal the fact most successfully.
And it is all. or nearly all, on account
of the new sheath-like skirt. They are
marvels. Fitted tightly over the hips, they
expand in graceful folds about the knees
anu dHhicS, ana give graceful outline.
The fit about the hips however, is not
necessarily matter of concern to slight
people, for these skirts can be so cut as 20
flare very much, even while they seem TO
cling, and the consequence is abrupt
hip line, which is becoming to thin wo-
man and natural to one who is more cor
pulent.
Then, too, the waists or bodices ere being
made with long shoulder seam; that is,
the sleeve is put in farther out or the
shoulder. This gives a broad shouldered
effect, which adds much to the looks of the
average woman. The material is also very
much draped across the bust, and very
smooth and snug at the waist line One
lashionable beauty, who rejoices in small
waist under all circumstances was quite
deiighted with her spring gowns when they
came home. They all looked very small
ABOUT the waist, on account of the man
ner in which they were constructed vet
as she triumphantly remarked, 1T causes
me no agony whatsoever"
1t is well to remember the looks Of tba
best fashion plates and models which are
sent over each season when going to nave
Il gown made, or hen constructing one al
nome. Bearing in mind the general effect
OF tnese models, and insisting on having
modistes approach them as nearly as nos
SiDie without interfering with ones COM
lort VIII make a vast difference I'm the ap-
pearance of ones gowns. 1t is easy enough
10 remember that to get the sheath-like
enect, which is yet really the most gener-
Gus looking. one must have ones skirts
made with apron fronts. or hounces grad
ualeo 10 narrow point in the back and
'hat a draped front with wide girdle for
a thin woman. and narrow girdle for a
stout woman are used by good modist.s to
give TO each an opposite effect. that is to
give VolumnousnesS to one and slenderness
to the other.
The Revival Of Broad Gfrdles.
Girdies, by the way. are growing wider
ard wider, and from three to four inches
/ wi OH
wear with their silk and satin separate
waists or blouses. 1t is needless to say
waists which will support a girdle of this
width are not bloused at all. The girdlas
are made of all sorts of materials princi-
pally ribbon, and shaped, fitted and boned,
very many of then. Unless one is too stout
for them they are the latest and smartest
addition TO silk shirt waists. They add very
much to a fashion-plate effect on an aver
age woman. Leather belts, however, are
not by any means relegated to the back
ground, Tor there are numberleSS outdoor
sports and occasions on which one must
contrive to look very trim and tailorsmade.
After looking carefully after the shape
ana ntting OF a gown and the shape of
belts, g1rdleS and shoulder seams one should
look carefully into the size of the sleeve
which seems to be favored on the best
gowns. 1t is not SO much the particular
manner in which it is made Women think
so much of that, when 1t is the effect which
counts. The sleeve of the present day is
rather trying. l. must not be extremely
small, or if it is tight fitting there must be
an apology in the shape of cap or ruffle
at the top, and it must not be large
The crown and finish of the smart gown
Is the collar, and that. regretsully for those
who love comfort must it be said, is high.
very high. Grow accustomed as best You
may to feeling it every time you move your
head or bend your neck in any direction if
you aspire to that iEdefinabl. and elusive
something known as style"
Lace JabOts and High Collars.
1t is in a measure to overcome many def
ciencies in the collar line, and also to pro-
vide many changes for a gown which one
must wear often. that so many new ways
of dressing the neck of a gown are provided