The National tribune., 1898-10-13

cottage gardens.
We were Just across the street from the
cathedral iii Cologne, the pride and glory of
the city, for its immense size. it's vistas OF
marble columns, shadowy aisles and
wondrouS woOd-carying. The organ is
| supposed to be the finest in the world.
We went to mass and tried to go in the
big front door, but were confronted by a
moOn-faced man in a red-fanneI Mother
Hubbard gown, short i'll front. and long
in the back, as Mother Hubbards" usu-
ally are. His robe made like those of
the women OF the backwOOds "deestricks, -
was or;1anlented by rows of black velvet
ribbon. lie scowtcd, frowned, and -four
ished his weapon, and then told us to go
to the left door. We went
We stood around and listened to the
| music. 1t was divine. The light from the
stained glass windows fell softly on the
faces of paintings and SCULPTURE OF the
Virgin and Child, saints and martyrs; on
the gorgeous trappings of the altaTs, and
the priests in their veStmentS OF gold and
silver. Many Americans and English
were in the cathedral, and the chap in
the red Mother Hubbard followed us
like Nemesis
There was the tinkIing of golden bells
swung by a pretty acOlyte, who watched
every movement of the holy man int0ning
the service. The perfume of burning in
cense filled the building, and somewhere
HI tHc QlSldICt ClcIoISIeO NUNS were sing
ing, their voices soft and low the
murmur of the sea on d calm Summer
day. Still the red Mother Hubbard pur-
sued US.
The sanity ashes of Archbishops rest
under sculptured tombs. The painting OF
the "Adoration of the Magi is in the
chapel of Saint Agnes. In front of the
chapel of the Three Kings" lies buried
the heart of Marie dc Medici. In the
Rath -haus is the room in which she died.
The old Rath haus, with its stately tower
is guarded on each side by soldiers, i'm
movable, apparently, as If carved from
marble.
Cologne is said by pessimistic people to
have 40 weli-defined smells" We did
not look for them, nor find them. But we
found everywhere the fragrance of eau de
cologne" sweet as the roses of far-away
Cashmere. Migrants are everywhere. and
there is ingenuity in their methods of
extracting the coins of the country. Boy
beggars stand on their heads and turn
somersaults, while their maternal Tela-
tives, sitting in the low latticed windows,
knit and crotchet and gossip.
1t seemed to be fete day in Mayence
Companies of soldiers rode madly up and
down the street, and more companies cf
soldiers with their bright trapptngs, pa
raded along the waterfront. After dinner
we walked around the town and sat
down on one OF the benches near the
water and watched the happy people
laughing and dancing over the white
sands.
Men loIled on the benches, smoking
vile tobacco, and drinking enough beer
and other things to set the ship going
that was iazily dipping and rising on the
waves. The heavy Swelis of the town
were out with their girls. promenadng up
and down the leach, Sentimentally in
clined, for hands were clasped and many
a strong arm was around lace and ribbons
and ieweled girdleS. "Omnia yincit amor"
is true the world over. Every man
who had a fine uniform wore it, with
gold-lace and decorations and medals.
All looked as brave as il "lust from the
front and gore" Heidelberg students
wandered around displaying scars
cuts across the face, zig Jagged across,
sometimes in lines of three or four red
scars; deep gaShes on manly brows; and
one fellow was nearly minus a lip. The
populace seemed to consider all the ter
rble scars as badges of honor.
Children, daring little desperados
tumbled and splashed in the water, and
fishing fleets with red and green lights,
were sailing in and sailing out
The cathedral is suggestive of long