The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1898-03-22

wood The largest canes are generally
the least fruitful, while the smaller
ones do not possess the vigor necessary
to support a crop. The best canes
are those of medium size. with we'll
formed eyes 1t also makes great
deal of difference where a cane is cut
in removing it. There is a slight swell
ing at each bud; this is called a node,
and the space between the eyes IL
called an internode. and is filled with
pith. At each node there is a growth
Of hard wood. If the cane is cut in the
middle of an internode the pith viii
shrink away. leaving an excellent place
for fungi and bacteria. On the other
hand, if the cane is cut through the
node a growth of hard wood is left,
keeping out the weather and prevent
ing decay. At the base of each cane
there is an enlargement, and if you
wish to remove the cane entirely it
should be cut just above this enlarge
ment. This is the most favorable place
for healing. and does not leave stump
of dead wood
In removing older wood it is not de-
Srable to cut too close to a spur for
fear of the wood drying out, and thus
the spur would be lost or it's vigor
greatly impaired. These projecting
pieces of dead wood should be removed
the next year in order to allow the
wound to heal over perfectly and make
a symmetrical vine. The large cuts
that are sometimes necessary should
be made with a pruning saw.
Pruning should be done as soon as
the leaves have fallen First go over
the vineyard and rough prune, cutting
the canes up in small lengths that may
easily be plowed under and be sure
to leave wood enough on the vines.
When you come to prune a glance Will
show what old wood and canes should
be removed. The vines should De
prunad so as to allow blowing close
to the vine Do not allow branches
to stick out in every direction, choose
vertical canes and prune for the in
side eye, thus making close and COM
pact head; it is better to cut off out
standing spurs and arms when prun-
ing than to break them off when plow-
ing. Early pruning prevents the de-
lay caused by the rains SO desirable if
for 40 other reason.
When rooted vine is first planted
if the growth is not good the first
year all the canes but one should be
removed the following year, and that
one cut back to two or three eyes, ac-
cording to it's strength. The third year
two or three spurs may be left with
three eyes each. These spurs will de-
termine the head of the vine, and it
is important that they should be chosen
at the right hight from the ground,
say from ten to twelve inches. In the
following years the number of spars
should be increased carefully, care
being taken to so shape the vine as to
maintain an equal balance of the arms.
Generally young vines are more Wig
orous than old ones and tend more TO
send out shoots from basal and DOR
mant buds. They should, therefore, be
given longer spurs in proportion; they
are also more inclined to bud out
earlier in the spring and are, therefore,
liable to be frost bitten. For this rea-
son they should be pruned late, say in
March, this protects them in two ways:
In the first place, in an unpruned vine
the buds nearest the ends of the canes
are the first to start to relieve the
pressure of sap and are caught by
the frost. The buds nearest the base
not having started. are saved. In the
second place, the pruning being done
when the sap is flowing there will be
a loss of sap. retarding the lower eyes
from starting and thus saving them
from all danger of frost