The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-11-13

matters little. If the skirt is not
y fitted according to the figure of
the wearer it is a distinct failure as an
underskirt.
French women pay as much attention
to the fit of the uuderskirt as to the outer
garments. Unless the underskirt is prop
erly fitted it is impossible to have the out
side skirt hang properly.
Underskirts that are bought ready made
are designed for people of average build
If you are too stout or too slim it is better
TO have the underskirt made to order to
suit the purchasers build. It is sure to
fit properly then, and will insure the pos
sibility of perfect-ftting outer garment
Underskirts designed for stout women
are made with a yoke. The fullness of
the skirt depends from the yoke If the
yoke is properly cut and glove-fitting it
VIII not add to the size of the hips.
For figure that is too slender the I'M
derskirt should not be made with a yoke
Natural deficiencies in the figure can be
covered up by having the silk gathered
full over the hips and back. If the skirt
IS lined it can be judiciously padded over
the hips If padding must be used it is
always preferable to have it in the under
skirt rather than in the skirt,
The white muslin underskirt is rarely
seen downtown now. 1t has been relegated
TO its proper position-for indoor use
Nothing can be prettier than a muslin
underSkirt trimmed in embroidery or lace.
1t has an air of simple elegance and dain-
tlneSS about IL that is more pleasing tnan
the most beruff1ed, betrimmed silk under
skirt But when it is traiIed over the dusty
streets and becomes Soiled it is a hideouS
drawback TO an otherwise pleasing cos
tune.
An underskirt for every toilet saws
Dame Fashion, but whether it blends with
the color OF the gown or contrasts Strik-
ingly is a matter Of Individual taste.
The shops that make a speciality of lin
gerte exhibit such quantities of pretty
models, with the ruffies and puffs and
lace apphques arranged in such divers
patterns, that there are no duplicates to
Be found.
Understands for. ball gowns are. made
of the palest shades of violet pink vel
low and blue, along with an unusual
number Of ivory satin skirts They are
Ornamented with innumerable frills of
mousseline oe sole and other gauzy ma
terials.
The skirts to be worn with boudoir
robes are hardly less elaborate, though
their most characteristic feature is the
elaborate trimming on the front gore 1t
IS intended to show under the loose
Between the skirts intended for visit
ins toilets and those designed to- be worn
WIN tabernacle costume there is less
inference The latter, though, are quite
short, never extending below the shoe
tops. For, with their dainty trimmings,
tley could not afford to be trailed along
ne wet, muddy winter sidewalks here.
The preference for crisp, rustling tat
Ieta for underskirts is not so marked at
present so many OF the women of taste
nave a horror of announcing their pres
ence by a great rustic of silk skirts that
soft silks are chosen. Then too a stiff
ruStIlng taffeta is generally woven with
spun glass, which while insuring a smart
mare, splits at every crease after few
A pretty shade of olive green is very
seTYlceabIe for the tailOr-made gown. 1t
can be trimmed with a frill of the silk
mat commences on both SIDES OF the
front gore five inches in width, and in
creasIng in depth. reaches half way to
the waist al the back pointed yoke,
with narrow strips of blue green and dark
red velvet arranged over it in a plaid,
gives the skirt a very chic appearance.
bottom Of the fril gives a very dressy
finish to the skirt
petucoats for street wear. They are
usually trimmed with a graduating
Hounce- Black lace bowknots appliqued
over the hounces are new and pretty. A
narrow 1riu Of taffeta bordered with a
black lace ruche is pretty finish for the
Clge OF the HOunce.
The very latest petticoats are made to
Iasten on both sides Of the front gore
! he petucoat is thus bound to remain in
tact should the skirt gap at the back
Lovely silk petticoats as airy and fury
looking as can be on the exterior can be
very practical winter garments if the I'M
Ger side is lined with fannelette. The
DAINTY white silk petticoat that is now the
proper thing is lined with snow flannel
cite. Since the pronounced rustic is no
longer desired, women do not object so
strenuously to having the petticoat lined.
A taffeta silk petticoat will not stand
hard usage. If the pettieoat intended for
constant wear must be of silk, then
choose silk softer than taffeta. For
economy as well as warmth have it lined.
The lining need not be as heavy as fan
nelette. A material called nearsilk is very
desirable for lining a silk petticoat. The
lined underskirt Will outwear two under
skirts without the lining.
AS a substitute for silk the most accept
able fabric for an Underskirt is moreen.
OF course, it does not rustic, but it flares
well, nor does it lose the flare after few
weeks wear The edges of the fiounces
riff 10 h.
bon. or the moreen will cut through the
lining OF the outer skirt.
Whatever material you use, remember
the only underskirt to wear is one fash
toned according to the build of the wearer.
If Won are slim. have it gathered other