The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-31
ideas for dMomeu

IN spots or in single bowers will be first
favoritcs FOR smart summer and evening
trousseauA. Gowns partly shaped out and
and made up are TO he especially popular.
These consist Of a shipped skirt and
lengths OF embroidered piece net tor the
waist and sleeves aud of edging for trim
ming. Many of these robes have d
shaped and embroidered piece for the
bodice also. making the getting up of the
toilette a comparatively simple thing.
The embroidery or lace work on the
shaped skirts is. in nearly all cases. con-
fined 10 the lower half. and a ~festoon
runs all around the edge. In the piece
nets. technically known as laize, there is
a great variety of styles and designs.
Louis XIV patterns seem 10 predominant,
however, the true lovers and floating rib
bon being much used.
Most of the white and tinted lace. or
laize, is of the guipure order and will be
used for blouse bodices and fronts in
ivory. cream. ficelle and ecru. :
The Easter season viii see the lace
bertha revived. They are already being
sold. gathered and sewed to a narrow
ribbon. ready for sewing to the top of
low bodices.
Flounces, edgings and insertions are
shown in an immense variety. Brussels,
Chantilly. valenciennes. Venetian. Genoa
and Flanders points, Bruges. Duchesse,
Irish crochet and the Renaissance and
Luxeuil braid laces. The creamery tints
are preferred both in handmade and i'm
itation lace.
The introduction of a small amount of
black into ight ~toilettes is a very new
5, idea. A black waist ribbon or shoulder
knot. a narrow puff or ruching of gauze.
are considered very chic additions to an
evening gown. For Instance. a dress of
pink mousseline de sole, s~pangled with
silver, has a tulle scarf attached to the
side seams and caught up at the back
into bows through two buckles. The ell
bow sleeves are yelled with black tulle.
One of the best models seen recently
had a skirt of white satin; three deep
LOUNGES reached almost to the waist, and
these were lined with eau de nil silk, a
very thin silk, edged with a ruching of
black chiffon. The bodice was draped and
fastened on the left shoulder with a huge
buckle and a fluffy plume of very short
black feathers. The deeoiletage vas out
lined by a ruching of the chiffon, and a
tiny tucker of the same material did
something toward softening its rather ex-
treme cut. Sleeves there were none. A
square drapery of white satin, lined with
the thin eau de nil silk, and edged with
a ruching of the black chiffon. taking
their place. A twist. interviewed of eau
de all tuile n black chiffon, finished off
with a bow.
As this is to be lace season, let me de-.
scribe an Empire gown intended for a
debutante. The underskirt. or rather
slip, was of lily-leaf green glaze; a triple
frill al the edge its only ornament, but
the gown itself was just. the most fairy
like garment it is possible to imagine
composed of softest. flmiest lace. in a
tender shade of yellow-not the harsh
coffee or ecru of the average lace manu-
facturer. but a faded browny yellow,
just rs though 1t had been lying by, for
who knows how many years, in a drawer,
scented with lavender and verbena.
Lace manufacturers have good reason
for Observation-Disclosures when they can
turn out such stuff as. l am glad to be
able TO chronicle, L saw. The gown was
not nnduly full-a good thing, to my
iGea, as it allowed the pattern of the lace
to show to greater advantage than
would have otherwise been the case. In
front, the decoIletage, which was of the
approved Empire cut, had two soft-falling
rerers Of the lace, very slightly wired.
The sleeves We're formed of tiny lace
ruffs. the latter transparent, with a long.
pointed draDery falling from the back of
the arm, and reaching quite to the knee.
In the extreme centre of the bust, a bunch
of lilies of the valley were pinned in
place by an arrow-headed emerald orna-
meft.
Those who may be the lucky owners of
one Of the huge white lace shawls which
We're SO fashionable in our g-randmothers'
days, could easily achieve such a gown
for themselves, and one, moreover, which
could not be copied by every beholder.
The practice grows among women Of
utilizing the time consumed in comprising
the exorable distances which are a part
of the life of this big city. 1t is very COM
mon to find five or six women in a car
deep in books. One was seen the other day
-ar elderly lady she was-with her Bible
open in her lap. and her reading was evil
IDENTIFY of that calm and -contemplative
character which belongs to the Bible. and
which also has rather been accepted as
belonging to the privacy of ones own
room. She would read a few verses. then
look off. apparently seeing nothing of her
surroundings. yielding only to the reflec-
tions gathered from her book. The sight
of such peaceful leisure in a rushing ele-
waited car was conspicuous enough to draw
all eyes to its exponent. Occasionally a
woman is found, in the back part of the
last car Ola train. industriousiy taking
some needed stitches in a glove or even a