Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-29
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
The Matter of Neckwear Demands the Most
Careful Consideration.
Stocks and Collars Are Unusually
High mt This SeasOn-The
End II Not Yet.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

NEW YORK, January %. 1898.
In no American city is SO much attention
given to collars as in this, and the conse-
quence is that one can often tell the stran-
gers on the street by the difference in the
cut of their stocks.
Stocks is mild word to use for the new
enveloping covering which modestly con-
ceals every particle of neck and often the
ears as well. The new spring styles are
often extreme when they first appear, and
on this well-known fact is based our only
hope that by next fall our collars will not
have met and united with our bonnets.
The collars &C the new cloth gown are
very high in front, and are generally
Part Of the vest of the gown. of some ma
terial or cloth which contrasts or harmon
ICES with the skirt and bodice. Toward the
cars the collar begins to grow higher, and
1t Is elongated until by the time it reaches
the seam in the center of the back it con-
sists of a high, rolling piece of cloth, often
cut up the center, with two points which if
straight instead Of being curved out would
almost extend to the crown of the head.
This sounds exaggerated, but it looks well
when properly cut and shaped For shaped
and well shaped they must be, and it is
wise to remember that such shaping can
only be done by an expert and the ordinary
dressmaker had best be allowed to choose
a less ambitious finish.
On plain cloth gown collar of this
sort has no trimming whatever, but in this
present era of elaboration such gowns are
not plentiful, and the satanic collars set
forth above are trimmed with fur. jet &C.,
continuing the decoration of the gown.
In High Favor.
Tucked yokes sleeves ard collars, which
have been such feature of winter gowns,
still continue high in favor. A gown with
a tight-fltting tucked waist terminated In
tucked collar, which was merely normal at
| the back and front, that is, extended only
| to the line of the chin and hair, but came
up In points ON either side. which met the
lobe Of the ear. This collar, of course, was
fastened on one side. 1t was beautiful
model. but it would require a neck more
swanlike than that possessed by the aver
age woman to wear 1t with success The
tucked yoke, sleeves and collar of this
Waist WAIST showed plainly, but the rest of the
podice was covered by an overdress of
cloth edged with fur and slashed at each
side to show the tucking underneath. The
openings were laced with gold cord and the
effect was most elaborate.
For the silk and flannel shirt waists
which are so extensively worn, there are
collars, ties and stocks of all sorts very
many OF them designed to appear above
the edge OF a coat with reveres. A huge
cravat OF giace silk, with a high Well-fit-
ting stock. made of the narrowest accord
Ion plating, has two large bows in front.
also plated. Joined by a loose knot in the
mluole. These cravatS are made in the
prettiest and brightest colors and are a
most becoming finish to a dark bodice or a
white one either.
Elaborate Silk Ties,
The ribbon going twice about the neck
and then tying in front in bow, or pre-
ferably a four-in-hand, has evolved into
elaborate silk ties, with plated or ruffled
ends, which is knotted so that one end is
above the other, and both show. In this
same class are the plaid and striped rib
bons and ties which grow more and more
plentiful as spring approaches, although
just now the stripes are in the ascendent
Many ties are made with lace-edged ends
A particularly handsome one was Of dark
red bengaline, edged with heavy yellow
lace.
A variation of this variety of four-in-
hand was seen on cheviot gown. of a
dark green and blue Scotch plaid. The
stock was of the same material as the
gown, and the knot was made some dis
lance down upon the front of the gown.
At each side of the collar was a project
ing piece of cheviot, lined with velvet of
a contrasting shade. Indeed, all gowns
which have not collars cut up high in the
back must have either lace or tabs Of the
material Of the gown, to fill up and cover
that space at the nape of the neck. which
artists are apt to consider worth seeing
May BE Made mt Home.
The null and muslin de sole creations
have not yet grown SO popular that one is
obliged to taboo them, and may be made
at home with great success. A yard and
three-quarters or two yards of muslin de
sole of the desired shade Is used In width
the scarf is from six to eight inches, ac-
cording to the fancy of the maker. 1t
should be edged with wide lace of a deli
cate pattern, and an insertion of narrow
lace of the same pattern improves 1t. 1t
is then folded twice about the neck, over
a ribbon Of the same color, and tied in a
huge bow in front. A tiny ruff1e of lace
at the back Of the neck will improve the