The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-05-01
FOR FEMININE READERS
SUMMER BODICE MAY BE ECONOM-
ICAL OR WILDLY ExTRAvAGANT.
The Girl Recognized as stylish Has
Her own Way-Tender Subject In
Woman's CIubs-Various Hints.

While there are but few really new and
original ideas in these separate waists,
there are numbers of notifications and
fancies in finish and trimming that give va
riety to the assortment and prevent any
thing like monotony or sameness, says a
writer in the New York Ledger. Many
ladies like all-black waists. These are
frightened by arrangements of garniture
thai suggests the old-fashioned device
known as harness" This consists of
shoulder straps, a p~lastron or puffed front
with cross straps and lines at the back to
keep the trimming in place.
One model strongly suggests the guimpe
style. The waist is of plain black India
silk. It is tucked in a fashion not very
elaborate, but neat and stylish. There is no
shoulder trimming, the tops of the sleeves
having merely loose puffs that fall over the
arms. The removable trimming consists of
the lower half of the blou~se-shaped waist
line. This waist is made of rich embroidery.
The straps are about two inches wide and
have frills of embroidery that furnish all
the shoulder trimming that is required.
Across the front the waist is plain, saw a
narrow edge of embroidered insertion. The
frilI at the waist is about three inches deep
below the belt, which Is of velvet matching
the silk waist in color.
Another garniture on this same plan is
made Of basket-woven ribbons of harmoni-
Gus or contrasting colors. In this instance
the shoulder frills and the portion below the
belt are of lace with loops of ribbon and
small bows set on at intervals in the folds
Of these draperies. An arrangement of this
sort will be found of great service where
one habitually wears dark coIors and feels
the need of something to brighten up the
attire for somewhat informal occasions. A
very dainty and attractive waist is made
OF white India silk. 1t is laid in fat plaits
at the collar and belt, and the waist is
given additional fullness by slightly gather
ing the plated material. This is done in
order that the plaits may not spread too
much and lose their shape. This, by the
way. is an important item in the making
up of plated goods, especially for waists,
where there is more or less drawing over
the bust and shoulders.
A waist is shown made OF plain satin,
rather close fitting and trim looking in it's
Hrst stages. When the garment is COM
Of ribbon about an inch wide gathered or
plated through the middle and set on to
form block patterns. These blocks may be
Of the ribbon itself. This is entirely a mat
ter of taste. The one referred to had two
inch blocks, but several are being made
4 a SCI anu idA OhN0 LhC v
and bodice are trimmed to match. There
IS a collar of elaborate embroidery, consist
ing Of a straight standing collar and 4
notable feature of this waist is the addition
of very large bows of velvet ribbon. These
bows are set on the front of the waist from
collar to belt and are so close together that
they nearly touch. There is also a bow on
either sleeve.
cts are left off, as it would be practically
impossible to get such sleeve bows into any
ordinary coat of the present-day style.
The guilnpe models are quite as popular
as ever. In making these guimpe waists,
st is necessary to arrange some means of
fastening the shoulders of the outer gar
ment. This is best accomplished by stitch
ing a firm piece into the shoulders of the
inner waist, dding q strong loop or two
made of thread or silk then sewing hooks
TO the inner side of the shoulders, by means
of which they may be firmly secured to the
loops. Nothing is more uncomfortable, awk-
ward or ungracefuI than one of these
suimpe waists with a perpetual slip-down
at~ge shoulders.
: Very pretty and convenient are the Eton
Jacket bodfces that so many young ladies
consider indispensable. For very warm
days, one ingenious damsel has provided
jackets of this sort with loosely tacked-in
muslin Innings to which are sewed puffs
of India silk attached to a belt. There is
q full front and sleeves of embroidery. These
sleeves button inside of the jacket arm
holes and may be removed and laundered at
VIII. With this arrangement a waist other
than the jacket is not necessary. There are
several sets of sleeves made in this way, as
also the lose blouse front.
But 1t is to the shirt waist that the every
day young woman turns with the lkeenest
sense OF satisfaction, and upon various and
sundry cotton fabrics she squanders a good
ly portion of her loose change. She makes
It Of silk, satin, ~diaphanous fabrics or cam
brics, as the spirit moves her, and finds
great cause for delight when another addi-
ton is made to her stock. For regular use
4ulness there is nothing in the wardrobe of
the day that is as desirable as a well-made
stylish shirt waist. Fanciful and dressy
waists are the occasionals of dress, but the
shirt waist is part and parcel of the regular
everyday equipment.