davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-10-08
A Drecoll Gown in Newest Color Har-
mony and Form,
LIGHT BODICES With COAT TAILS
Skirts Flare at the Bottom and
Sleeves Fit Closely.
ALL HAVE TAILOR FINISH


Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
VIENNA, October ], lS9S.
While the world of fashions has been
induIging in a refreshing dolce far
nfente, living without thought for the
morrow and still less care for the sur
prises which the tickle goddess will have in
store for them, tailors and dressmakers
have been busy devising and planning and
ingenious minds and deft fingers have
turned out a wealth of pretty clothes for
madame's adornment.
1t Is the tailor gown in its manifold role
of visiting, house and street gown. which
first claims our attention. and upon which
the faiseur has lavished his best ideas and
newest fancies. Its varieties are innumer-
able, and always graceful and feminine.
Some models still show the blouse form
over tight and boned lining, rich in trim
mings and caught at the waistline into
round belt, or, more frequently, into a
pointed girdle of velvet, silk or other trim
ming consruous with the gown. The pref
erence, however, is given to tight-dlliRg
bodices or jackets, LONE of which Ieach
Just below the waistline, while others end
IN long basques or coat tails. and others
again show the short jacket opening over
a vest in front and gradually lengthening
into a basque at the back
one graceful model of black cloth shows
still another variation in the shape of a
jacket bodice of black cloth undcrlaid with
stripes of red cloth trimmed with black silk
soutache, which follow the lines of the
black jacket closely, being about three
inches deeper, and Stimulating another
jacket worn underneath. The form is tight
al the back, reaching only to the waistllne,
while the front is loose below the chest and
falls in two sharp points below the waist
line.
Sleeves Carefully Fitted.
The form of the sleeve requires careful
study. 1t follows the contour of the arm
closely without being tight, and the slight
fullness at the top should be just large
enough to give the fattering appearance of
well rounded shoulder. Epaulettes or
other shoulder garnitures generally
omitted, and where they are used the effect
Evening star., 1898-10-08

on the bias, and when plated have the
easy unfurling of fan with every move
ment of the wearer.
A soft shade of violet taffeta is fashioned
upon a gored foundation. having Spanish
hounce. This accordion-p plated fiounce lis
cut into deep Van Dykes and edged in a
small futed frill. which, narrow as il is,
is set on with tiny pinked heading. This
pointed f1ounce falls over a six-inch ac-
cordion-plaited dounce pinked at each
edge. Such skirt is worth S24. and will
be precious possession for it's owner.
Au-biack taffeta skirts are to be fash
ionable as is evidenced in an exquisite ex-
ample gored TO meet a Spanish fiounce.
which is plated, cut in Van Dykes, and
terminates in a four-inch guipure lace
There are three dust rUffies. the under two
narrow and made double, the other deeper
and just TO overlap. The handsome feature
of the plated hounee. and probably one
cause for the price. 80. is that the plaits
are shocked in deep points TO follow the
outlines of the Van Dykes.
Striped silk skirts. in stripes of half-fnct
width, are extremely popular They aT
combine white with another color gray
red or black being the favored complf-
ments. They are made with the bias frii
accordion plated and pinked at the upper
and lower edges. Most of the handsome
new underskirts have fancy colored ribbons
for tie strings and are stifened witt
featherbone.
Evening star., 1898-10-08
sILkEN UNDERSkIRTS.
Some Styles That viii BE Worn the
Coming season.


From the ST. Louis Gicbe- Democrat.
No one should raise voice against
woman's extravaganza in her silk petit
coats. Custom and law dictate that she
shall wear skirts, and she is not truly fem
ir.ine if she does not yearn to possess her
self of the prettiest and daintiest to be had.
Extraragance has got the better of judg-
ment this season, but they are so tempting
ly fascinating when heaped one after an
ether in bewfldering mass of rustic and
sheen such designs, such colors, such ma
terials. You may conscientiously stif1e any
qualms and be assured that they-the good
ones-will wear well. and in finer qualities
come back from the cleaner with draggled
edges fresh and bright and crisp once more.
If you incline to points-so many women
do-you will be fascinated beyond resist
ance with an imported skirt in the most
delicate La France shade, made of heavy
tafeta, made with a shapely gored foun-
dation, terminating in a pinked edge dust
ruff1e Immediately overlapped by an eight
inch fiounce of Chantilly lace. laid on in
small plaits. Over this, falling in well-de-
fined points, fully fourteen inches at their
depth and cutting up to about five inches
at the top, is an aecordion-plaited founce
cut in scallops. made very full, edged with
an inch-wide black lace Joined without
fuliness. The plated flounce is joined TO
the skirt in corded line, leaving a narrow
heading pinked to form finish like de-
Hcious carnation pink. Nothing could be
lovelier than the effect of this garment
when donned, and the purchaser Will
scarcely demur at the price of ST asked
for it.
Green and silvery sheen glace was Sc
lected for a second skirt. 1t is made with
out the regulation Spanish fiounce, being
gored its full length and stiffened with
featherbone tape at the seam which joins
the dust ruff1e 'scraper" as dealers
term it, If such a name can be applied to
the frou-frou of a bit of scalloped silk.
The five small frills are set on in shallow
scallops, each frill edged i'm white satin
baby ribbon and set on with a pinked head
ing, with the exception of one at the top,
which is satin ribboned. This skirt, owing
to the absence of the deep frill, and be-
cause intended for utility. is of three
yard instead of the four and a half with
Spanish fiounces A skirt in this or sim
lar colors costs about SIS.
A figured taffeta blending various tints of
new blue. treated in diagonally set con-
ventional design and priced at S22.Jo, has a
deep hfteen-inch accordion-plaited fiounce
edged and headed with a pinked edge rose
plated ruche of taffeta, the shade of the
darker blend in the silk Another of the
same style Is in satin-striped taffeta. the
fine and broad lines introducing black and
white upon red ground The dust ruffie
is Joined In a seam which incases the
featherbone stiffening to give the skirt the
desired fare. All deep Aounces are cut
Evening star., 1898-10-08

OF Indignation showing how they chafed
at the situation.
Jerome directly addressed them
So" he said. you share your head
strong leaders view? You still hold your
opponents in such feeble esteem that YOU
believe your armies in Lorraine to be SUI
perior to circumstances. Let me undeceiye
you. Today your expedition consisting
presumably Of your picked troops was
beaten by less than half its numbers Only
one-third of my men were in the field when
you were hopelessly crippled You have
seen the value of the motors in action and
l tell you emphatically that If my demands
are not acceded to fully within the hour
all my available force will march tonight
for the frontier. Tomorrow Gen Kreuznach
will be asked to defeat~the same combina-
ton that you have already found irresist-
ible. What Will be the result?'
The two men were but a couple of PAGES
apart during this fmpassioned dialogue.
The stubborn Saxon nature in each shone
from their resolute blue eyes. Wilhelms
attitude showed that If the vital issues be-
fore them could be determined by strang-
ling his opponent be would gladly make the
attempt-Vansittarts, that he entertained
profound contempt. for a monarch who
cared little If he brought his country to
degra dalton in order to crafty his personal
pride. f
A sudden commotion drew all eyes to the
door, which was violently flung open, re-
vealing a German aid-de-camp STRUGGLING
ineffectually beneath the giant grip Of Ari-
Zona Jim.
"A telegram for you guv'nor," yelled
Bates.
Jerome read the telegram and handed It
to the kaiser. saying: Possibly this NAV
influence your decision.
The emperor ,disdainfully took the little
bit of flimsy. He read its contents twice
before he seemed to, fully comprehend their
purport. Then his Customary paIlid com
plexion assumed an ashen hue. He yisibly
trembled. Even his voice shook as he mur
INJURED, Can this be trueT'
'On my honor said Vansittart, st have
no reason to doubt It's accuracy"
Wilhelm dropped listlessly into a chair.
to bury his face in his hands-the slantine
rays of the sinking sun, striking in patches
through the low dianond-framed windows
of the room. showed great drops of per
spiration glistening on his for ehead.
Il will read it aloud said vansittart.
And this is what he read:
Metz is ours. The trlcolor floats again
above its Walls While our attack on Kreuz-
mach was developing l formed strong
column for the assault Of Metz and carried
position after position with astounding
ease. The gallant troops of France would
not be gainsaid. Fighting in outskirts still
proceeding. but we firmly established
In the tewn itself, and in the forts to west
and south. Kreuznach will proba bly, make
desperate efforts to recaptuIe Metz but 1
am confident Of ability to hold him Off.
pending further orders. Have just heard of
Evening star., 1898-10-08

is short and stiT rather than limp and
hanging.
The modern skirt has invariably tho ef-
ieCl OF tShtnesS above the knees and width
below, whether its form be an adjusted SER
skirt.
While the apron shape Of the upper part
OF the skirt will srill be worn the novelty
OF the season is the tunic shape designated
by trimmings or where the siend-rncss of
the hsure viii permit cut with one or sav-
erai Separ' te tuHics graduating in length.
lHe nn's OF the newest skirt. wha-c1rr
us Narla IL n may bc. must extend from the
top OF the front down in long and sweeping
curves toward the back
our morel combines the newest fashion,
able fancies, and viii appeal to those who
admire the most refined simplicity ard ele-
Sduce
The skirt is strictly tailor-made I'm its
hnlsn. and consists Of fine satin cloth OF
a rich plum shade. The front IS cut I'm one
piece with the very narrow hem which -r,-
circles the back The back shows .v-o tu-
nics, one considerably longer than tho
olher The upper one is attached to the
lower one. and the lower one TO the front
and hem by a series Of stitchinrs done with
prm-colored silk, and forming appropriate
borders.
A balayeuse of pale blue satin finishes
the inside of the hem.
BOIero, with velvet Vest.
The bodice shows a most novel form. and
is made of pale blue satin stripes with
plum-coIored long mapped velvet A care
ful selection of the blue has been made SO
that the color harmony is as pleasing as It
is novel. The bodice is quite close-ftttng.
and takes the form of a 5olero In from.
showing beneath a little pointed vest Of
plum-colored velret. adorned with strass
buttons and opening over a short front Of
pieated white Brussels net over white
satin.
The large revcrs of pale blue satin are
covered with an exquisite triangular piece
OF gulpure lace. made OF gold thrcao: th:s
in turn is veiled with a dainty nounce Of
very fine Brussels lace.
The boiero meets AZ the bust under
large fiat bow Of striped blue satin ans
plum-colored velvet, gathered at the center
by a crescent Of strass. A iabot Of RriIs-
sells lace falls loosely below the bow and
partly wells the vest The standing collar
of pleated tuue is inclosed by a band of
black velvet. which continues down The
front of the tulle vest
The striped material is 81 arrange that
the stripes meet In points at the center ~
the back. whore the bolero is elongated
into tight round basque. a high turn
ever collar Of blue satin Veled with yoid
guipure finishes the neck at the back
The sleeves are quite light and are also
cut to form sharp angles of the stripes
The hAring cuff at the wrist is slashct. and
shows jabots of Brussels lace between the
points.
Evening star., 1898-10-08
CHAPTER xxx.
jerome and wilhelm.

The German chief Of staff was far too
good a soldier not to know when the game
was up.
He bowed in silent acceptance Of the
kaiser's command, and at once sought the
means to execute it. But flag Of truce is
not usually carried as a part Of the equip
ment of an imperial army corps.
From a farm house on the road he OBJ
tanned small white tablecloth. He was
about to run his sword through the end,
when his nerve forsook him. With a cry
of bitter rage he dashed the weapon to the
ground.
Then he snatched lance from a Uhlan
orderly and rode off with his significant
banneret.
He did not go straight along the ridge,
the most direct way to the French center,
but cut across country diagonaily into the
valley. BY this means he hoped to stop
the advancing French cavalry and prevent
the horrible massacre, for it could be
naught else, which must ensue if once the
forsemen got mixed up with the stricken
German troops.
Fortunately he was in time
Montsaloy. riding at the head of the lead
ing regiment, the 18th Chasseurs caught
sight of the solitary officer dashing down
the hillside. and checked the order trem-
bling on his lips which would convert a
Sic ady gallop into a charge.
AS the courier Of peace drew near Mont
saloy recognized him. The mere fact that
Gen. Won Gossler himself carried the mer-
ciful signal showed the gravity of his er-
rand, and the French cavalry leader
brought his brigade to a halt the rest Of
the division pulling up in rotation as the
loud command passed from squadron to
squadron.
When the two officers met Won Gossler
begged the other to conduct him at once to
Nansittart and to delay the advance of the
French cavalry until the pour-parlers had
taken place.
Montsaloy felt that he assumed a grave
responsibility, but he was assured that the
kindly hearted American would sanction a
proposal intended to prevent useless blood
shed.
Leaving instructions with his second In
command to forthwith resume the charge
If any manifestly hostile move were made
by the enemy he accompanied Won Goss-
Ter toward the place where he had last
seen the millionaire.
But Vansittart, too, had noticed the flag
of truce. and the sudden halt of the French
cavalry.
Before the envoy had Travelled 100 yards,
with his escort, Jerome rode up, followed
by every officer who could invent the
slightest pretext for accompanying him.
Attired in a simple tweed coat, riding
breeches and boots with ad-brimmed
felt hat to shield his eyes from the sun,
and carrying no more offensive weapon
Evening star., 1898-10-08
To Keep Shirt Waists Down.

From the Cleveland Plain Dealer
Shirt waists have an uncomfortable fash
ion of slipping up in the back. which is
especially disagreeabe to the girl who
prides herself upon being well groornee.
There is one way. and one only. Of keen
ing them down eftectually. For this make
a band three inches long ana just enough
wider than the belt of the shirt waist I,
allow room to stitch II on easily ana leave
ii as wide as the belt. Work two button
holes IN 1t and attach IL firmly to the belt
of the shirt waist exactly in the mi .d,e of
the back. on the outside Now sey- two
nat buttons on the skirt to match the hat
ten holes. When but7oned the waist and
skirt will be kept together easily wItbouf
strain or danger or separating
The buttons should be fiat, such as are
used for mems underwear-pearl buttons
for wash skirts and black trousers lpuf-
tons for dark wooden skirts.
By this simple contriyance all danger ~
tearing the skirt by pinning is avoided. ana
the work once done is lasting
Evening star., 1898-10-08

Not only are elbow sleeves in vogue again.
but they are worn with a deep flounce of
mousseline de sole at the elbow, in a pretty
model OF a deceilete Louis XIV jacket of
white lace the basque scallepsd and TRIM
med round with ruchings of nousseiine
de sois, which extend up to the open front
also. To wear at an informal dinner moth
ing could be prettier.
Evening star., 1898-10-08

Stained floors should be restained at leas-
once a year. Have the foor thorcuphIy
scrubbed ard dried before going over il
with the paint ana varnish. To secure the
best results, the stain should be nut on
FIST and allowed 60 dry before the coating
of varnish is added. A mixture OF warm
water, soap and household ammonia Is
the best fluid one c2n use for cleaning
boardH Never use a scrub5ing brush on 4
Painted. stained or vanished fioor. Use
soft mon.
Arizona republican., 1898-01-01

drawing. Samples of work developed in the Tucson schools were much ad- mired.
 The closing address was delivered by lion. A. P. Snowman.
 The chair appointed the following committee on resolutions: PrOfes- sors Creager, Fully, Ostrom, MaCrea and Hafford.
 The Methodist church was crowded in the evening to listen to the ad- dress of Rev. R. E. Foley on the sub ject of 'sTact in Teaching" MT. Fo- ley was at his best and gave one of the most interesting as well as e-O- quent addresses ever listened to in this city, which was interspersed with just enough wit for illustrations to give it spruce and to keep the audi ence in expectancy.
 On motion of Mrs. Hood of the Nor nal school faculty, a vote of thanks was rendered to Rev. Foley for his address.
Arizona republican., 1898-01-01

rNory. Some of the horses were Hx- cellent animals and though they had no owners no one could take posses sion of them without laying himself liable to prosecution on complaint of any enemy for violating the stock law. An inspector wrote to Attorney-Gen- eral Frazier about it and he forwarded an opinion. Since then nothing has been heard directly from the region of the wild horses.
 The Republicans article was copied by eastern papers and got into plate and syndicate matter. It was widely commented upon and not day has passed within the last four months without bringing among The Repub- licanis exchanges one or more papers containing articles on "The Wild Horses of Arizonla-' It was noticed that the articles increased in length as time passed and Arizonans were surprised at the steady and rapid growth of the herd. The New York Times of a recent date contained an article in which the number was con- servatively placed at 10000. This proves the remarkable fecundity of the Arizona horse, which, though it is not equal to that of the common house fly or the Texas fever tick-a million a minu te-is continued throug n a greater period of longevity. It fore shadows also the early occupation of the ranges and valleys of Arizona to the utter exclusion of stock of all other kinds, as well as agriculturists, fruit growers and politicians, unless the New York Times and other east ern papers can be induced to cease the multiplication of the wild horses If they persist in abetting the growth of the herd all hope of statehood may as we'll be abandoned, for who wants to hang up in the galaxy of states a new state peopled only by uncultured horses incapable of governing them selves?
Arizona republican., 1898-01-01
A COMMERCIAL CLUB.
Its Objects and the Men Who Should
 Garry Them Out

Editor Republican: Within a few weeks there will be- brought forth within the bosom of Phoenix an or ganization to be known as a commer- cial club. It is intended that it's in fuences will prevail to interrupt con- flict where any, or if any exists, and to break down the spirit of disunion and disorganization if such prevail anywhere within the territory to bring about the development of a greater Arizona: to make Arizona known abroad in all it's varied merits, ard aid in solving the many problems that con- front her people. It would be most unwise to employ towards this end any methods that might awake sus- picion, methods that would bring to any disappointments instead of con- tentment. Msstatements and exag- geration fail where truth prevails. Yet it often appears there is misstate- ment or exaggeration to minds sus- picious, extremely cautious. or to those lacking in a broad experien nee of af- fairs.
 It may therefore not be best to forecast results, for there are those ready with the homely phrase, You can't count the chickens until they are matched" But no intellige-t per son will question the value of orga- nization, the extreme necessity of such, if results are to be expected. The standing, worth and earnestness of the men and women of Phoenix who have affixed their names to the promotion l of the objects set forth attest their ! public spirit, their devotion to their city and territory. Men of first rank in financial ability and the confidence in which they are held will be invited into the councils of this organization; men who will consider the honor of promoting those objects that will re- suit in making Arizona known abroad just as she is will give her standing in the councils of those states and territories where mines yield up their hidden treasures in all that region embraced within the Rockies and Sierras; will give her standing in solv- ing the problems of irrigation throu gh- out all of arid America. To this work and in favor of this movement all citizens interested are invited to lend sincere and earnest support to ce- ment union of forces here ant throughout the territory. D. c.
Arizona republican., 1898-01-01
WILL WINTER IN PHOENIX.

Col. A. L. Conger of Ohio is at the Adams hotel. MT. Conger is one of Americas prominent manufacturers s and has for many years been closely identified with Ohio, as well as ma tional politics. Col. Conger is here chiefly on account of the climate, he having suffered a. stroke of paralysis in Boston last January, this being superinduced by overwo.k during the Mckinley campaign and a too close application to his extensive business interests. Col. Conger went from Boston at once to the Still infirmary at Kirksville, Mo-. where he has since been treated by the newly discovered science of osteopathy He comes to Phoenix greatly improved in ge eral health and intends to cont inue his treatment in osteopathy while in Phoenix He is accompanied by Mrs Conger and has rented the Dennis residence at Second a-d Monroe streets.
 Col. CGnger was for eight years a member of the national republican committee and three times chairman of the republican state comm.tte of Ohio.
 During all his arduous services contributed to his party Col. CongeI has never once asked for nor occu- pied an office, and President Hayes once remarked that he always liked to meet him because he was the only man in Ohio who was not asking for T office.
 Col. Conger is an Independent re- publican" of Ohio-in other words, an antirHanna man.
Arizona republican., 1898-01-01

The trial of Wallace DuncaH for for gerry was concluded in district court yesterday morning and the defendant. was found guilty and sshtenced to one year in the penitenUary. Tn his closing address, Distyfct Attorney Kib- bey, referring to tie plea of insanity by the defense, a6d a statement drawn from>a witness /that he believed Dun can was insane to the extent that he could not resist a wrong impulse and that he possessed mania in the di- rection of forgery, said: ffGentlemen, we have many new diseases in law. Kleptomania is comparatively re- gently discovered ailment. I hope this jury will not discover another, impulse forgery and fasten it upon our Jurisprudence" He referred also to Duncan as the ignoble son of an illustrious sire and said that the pop ulation of Arizona was being too rap idly augmented by young men whose wealthy parents had shipped them here, where they believed their dis grace would be buried in the wild con- fusion and lawlessness supposed to prevail in Arizona.
 There is no doubt that Duncan was OIlCe lHSdHe dHu lHere IS also no QOuDL that his conduct at the time of com hitting the forgery was that of an iu- sane man, but of man made insane by the continuous and incorporate use of liquor. It is possible that if Duncan's relatives would agree to take him back home and confine him in an inebriate asylum, strong effort would be made to procure his pardon.
 Jose Wilson, who had pleaded not e11 lfv tn an indictment for hnrSn