The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-10-05
New York Fashions.


FLARING SKIRTS, JACKETS, CAPEs.
A large toque with fancy crown and
costly fur band or velvet loops set off
by Bird of Paradise feather, or sin.
gle broad ostrich plume, (sometimes
two or three) is the dashing dress hat
OF the season, presenting what the mil
liners term the "side front" The ma
jority Of stylish hats are modelled on
this basis, and many large hats are
tilted to one side to show "side
'front.'" No adequate idea of the beau
ty of these ornamented crowns can be
conveyed, arranged in artistic curves
or ftlds, glittering with beads and
spangles, their richness relieved by
contrasting miroir velvet, plumes or
Rhine stone buckles.
CoLoRED FELTs
bound with velvet are by no means ig-
ncred as dress hats, and velvet and
feathers are piled on them in such ex-
tremes, that they look like "heavy
weights" A modification comes up
for felts in second brim of shirred
Milane edged with fur. A new velvet
rosette is very wide open, the edges
trimmed on the inside by contrasting
chiffon ruchings and wide bias chiffon
platings are placed around the rosette,
forming sort of background. Four
such roseltes trim the brim and crown
of q large felt and are usually in two
colors, Rhine stone ornament spark
ling at the center of each rosette, a
single, very long (maufactured) quill
feather turning toward the back and
violets or roses under the brim. This
shape is worn over the forehead. To
complete the ensemble of the faring
toQue, the front hair must be very fuf-
fy on the forehead, and the back hair
quite low. Very large all black velvet
hats are shown for young ladies, and
while extremely picturesque, are ex-
pensive and very heavy.
FOR A TIME.
wool fabrics were so handsome that
silks or satins were somewhat ignored;
now, however, the exact opposite is the
case, and silks have regained their for
mer position. Satins of every kind are
stylish, but naturally attention is chic fly
attracted toward fancy silks and those
which Lord & Taylor are showing COM
bine many beautiful designs in the one
charming ensemble. On a psle-hued
MORE surface run plaids in stylish con-
trasts, while from among the bars, half
turned leaves of darker tint seem to
peep out; or waving garlands of pink
rosebuds or maize-yellow MORE illus
trate the Bayadere idea; then again,
while silk cords traverse a citl blue sur
face.
ANOTHER PRETTY FANCY
is pink satin stripes through small
chene figures, or clusters of white satin
stripes through similar designs. Broad,
white satin stripes on colored moires
are very effective, and at present every
kind of MORE may be utilized, or
shaded silk as well particularly when
embellished with floral figures. Grim.
son gros grain silk with narrow black
stripes at the center and wide ones at
the edge, will make handsome waists,
with the wide stripes used as trimmings.
Velvet bow-knot designs in burnt
orange, Magenta, or turquoise. blue on
black, or black on white silk afford
lovely contrasts, harmonizing with mil
linery and dress materials.
WHAT ARE CALLED NEW SKIRTS
are only the summer styles in winter
materials, except that the 1aring circu-
lar founce has no fullness at the top I;
and is always headed by plain braid
dotted with buttons or fancy braiding.
The length of skirt is obje ction lie,
and street dresses show perez ptible
train. Not unfreq uently, braiding is
used in open patterns over the whole
upper part of the skirt, sleeves and
waist the circular founce alone being
plain, then again the ornamentation is
evenly divided. Two wide circular
rufflces put on almost plain are in silk
costumes substitute for deep tiounce.
The blounce front is less pronounced
than it was last season, aid is often
drawn together at the front by fancy
single button or simulated straps.
Sleeves are smaller, and new idea is
to extend the shoulder trimming over
the arm.ho seam, and then ii is called
the extension sleeve.
THIS MAY BE CALLED A FLARING
SEASON.
The hats flare, the skirts flare, the
capes flare, and even the jackets flare.
These last do not lack variety. A
three-quarter haring coat with cutaway
fronts rank first, and in black velvet
richly trimmed by jet with fur collar
and revers the appearance is elegant.
Then comes medium length, tight
fitting jacket, covered with braid; next
the ordinary box coat, then short jacket
with loose or tight fronts. Capes are
cut circular, then haring circular
piece is attached, and the front or side
view is anything but graceful, and the
longer the cape, the more awkward it
appears, as additional flares are put on
as trimmings.
COLLARS ARE HIGH
and very faring except on velvet gar
ments, and new revers is almost TRAN
gular, one side of the front tapping over
the other bringing the revers directly
in front. The ordinary double revers
is however not out of style. In addi-
ton to colored or jet passementerie and
every species of braid and braiding
gathered ribbon trimmings will be much
in vogue, and this is already apparent
in millinery, where gathered satin "baby