Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-02-20

AS for material. it is built of a mixed
cloth of very light weight. a new light
cloth. in spite of its rough effect due to the
mixture: The buttons are of ivory. its
collar of a deeper blue velvet. its lapels Of
a narrow blue velvet band. cut en- forme,
finishes the lower edge of the jacket. The
skirt is trimmed with three bands Of velvet,
and one trimming the center of the circu-
lar ounce. the three continuing naturally
up each side Of the front. and the petticoat,
An ivory silk ascot fills in. the throat;
there is a boa of black feathers OF waist
the braid q mixture of straw and chenille;
is soft and crushed in effect. and trimmed
solely with black wings tucked Into the
curves and with pins of jet and steel.
As a model spring tailor rig this is well
nigh perfection, the skirt mounted over a
satin foundation of the same color. and
shape, with only a narrow plisse ruffie trim
ming the front and sides: other rufties
reaching as high as the knees upon the
closely back with drawing strings-the
umbrella silk petticoat we have been wear
ing proving quite unsuited to the closely
hung foundation skirts, even when the
faring circular fiounce trims the overSkirt-
The craze for satin-faced stuffs or for
variety of material into one of these two
classes. Mixed silk and wool stuffs of a
rough appearance. and in grays and blues,
in reality smooth to the touch and loosely
woven enough to be decidedly benefited by
the color of the lining. And tightly woven
cloths in mixed color effects like trOuser-
.ings-stuffs that will build stunning jacket
suits-have a surface as smooth and Satiny
as the finest ~broadcloth or cashmere.
parent, and sometimes have silk polka dots.
stripes or sprigs of the same color. There
are also open-meshed nuns veilings which
are delicious.
The most fashionable gowns for spring
and summer will undoubtedly be those of
open mesh, or of cl.nging, silky semi-trans-
parency. The weaves. in their strange mix
ture of silk and wool and chenille. are al
most indescribable for the reason that q
srenadine partakes largely of the nature
of a ret: a finely woven wool is thin enough
10 be called a chiffon, and silk poplin IN
its sheer summer weaves might almost
pass for a crepe de c~hine-each and every
wholly or ,semi-transparent.
Many woods pass under the name of
woven lightweight wool fantasia. while
grenadine serves as a name for countless
lace or gauze or net-like fabrics that range
Black silk muslins are set forth by the
importers with most beautiful embroider-
les in tiny gariands; In stripes. or IN Lattice
threads. Polka-dotted silk muslin is ex-
quisite and plain muslin in all delicate coll
ors is used with cashmeres of the satin
faced variety. the underskirt of cashmere,
with overdress or ruffies and sash of the
muslin in the same shade.
The muslins as well as the grenadines
have lace-like insertions in stripes or lat
tees or undulating bands all over them. or
they are striped with serpentine silk cords
in clusters of graduating nu~mbers-clust-
ers three, five, seven. five, three,
one. for instance-with suitable spaces be-
tween. simple patterns such as these being
SO much more effective than a mass of
meaningless curleycues such as we styled
"foulard patterns" last season.
Embroidered festoons of flowers. heavy
guipure-like applications. these, too. are
woven upon the silk muslins. as we'll as
the insertion effects. and they are all
sweet" Black satiny stripes on muslin
are effective, and also a small tiny lattice
OF fine black silk cords.