The record-union., 1898-01-23

an entire second yoke of openWorK
soutache braidwork, en- applique. On
! evening toilets. nets, soft liberty satlns,
/ silk muslin, chiffon and crepe de chine
are variously used for yokes or guimpes
} and very often the sash or girdle and
I short sleeve puffs are formed of a cor
responding material
| Rough patterned fabrics never look as
| We'll made up in princesse style, even
on slender figures, as the smoother,
| lighter textiles, like drap d'ete and
| double faced cashmere, for example,
and also the different silks and satins.
| Very beautiful dress models for the
| coming season are made of elegant
! qualities of corded silk. A tailor made
| princesse dress of pale reseda green
| repped silk, with a very lustrous sur
| face, Is finished at the foot of the demi
| trained skirt with five tiny tapping
| frills of the silk. At each side of the
| front breadth the skirt is slashed, in
| Producing fan pleated panel of vari-
| colored Oriental brocade. The little
| rounded jacket fronts are lined with the
| patterned satin and trimmed with Per-
| sian bead passementerie, whose brilliant
colorings repeat those in the brocade
| The cellar is lined and trimmed to
| match, as are the slashed cuffs of the
coat sleeves, which are finished at the
| top with small puffs Of the brocade.
A ~ow Of this elegant trimming deco
! rates each side of slashed fronts of
| the skirt.
Some of the most stylish coats of
| the season are made of cloth, repped
silk, and fur Many of these, in the
various new shades of winter-sky gray
and the much paler frost" tints, are
as a rule more becoming than the long
familiar swallow, nickel. aluminium or
sand gray dyes. Following Russian eff
| fects, some of the models fasten at the
| left side, and the skirt portion laps
also, and is frequently fastened just
belo9v the waist with fancy metal
or silk cord ornament; all are finished
/ in tailor style, and have a large far
ing collar and small mutton leg sleeves
The most fashionable princesse gowns
are combination of blouse and prin-
cesse. One, for example. is of rich
Russian blue broadcloth, the back close
| ly lifted and beautifully hung. AT each
side cf the front are long closely ad-
Justed side forms, some of which ter
inmate in peplum ends that are silk lin
ed, braid trimmed and shaped with
oval ends. Just in the center of the
bodice portion it is slightly bloused
This full piece is separate like a plas-
tron, aid is set upon the front breadth
/ and fTamed with narrow fur with the
| linlsh at the waist of handsome belt
coming from under the arms. and cov-
ering the lower plain edges of the
blouse. The dropping folds of the cloth
partly conceal the belt.
Rose-colored silk or satin waists are
very fashionably worn this winter with
skirts Of black velvet, brocade or sat
in, and occasionally they are seen with
skirts of dark corded silk. These
waists are, as rule, very much
trimmed with handsome lace. but the
garniture IS often of velvet matching
the skirt, with the rich addition OF fur
! bands and beaded passementerie.
Sashes remain in favor. The soft
falling chiffon scarf, with long ends
edged with pleated frilling or lace. are
largely worn on very smart occasions.
On very slender forms these are carried
twice around the waist, and exceeding
ly pretty they look when well arranged
and worn with airy or very light silk
gowns. Ribbon sashes are worn in va
rious widthsl From three inches to
ten or twelve describes the Emit each
way. The excessive wide styles once
popular are not used this winter, and
the very broadest sashes are of trans
parent texture. A sash that is not too
wide. and that falls to the skirt hem
/ Is. as a rule. far more becoming to the
wearer than the one that is half-length.
OF course very wide sash cannot be
tied a the side. An innovation that
has little 10 recommend ii is half
| length ribbon sash tied iii this position.
She may not have appeared an objec.
Of wondroUs grace and beauty but she
was certainly one to be heartily envied
on that day by ngmberless women who
came and went at intervals through the
massive entrance doors OF the hotel.
grasping franticaIiy at wndtossed um-
brelas and street-sweeping skirts. 1t
was also noticed that not 4 woman Of
! the rainy day-costume party had the
/ inevitable pocketbook in evidence, to
possibly or probably lose it or cumber
her hands; and likewise that the hand
+ Sttt3C lu4 iiuilS NpTH ere III every III
| stance suspended from the neck by
either chain or ribbon. In every way
/ they were a very interesting object les
son 10 every other less appropriately
equipped woman present.
| Dressmasers are still recommending
/ the very handsome peau de sole silks
/ % those who do not fancy the solid gar
! ish luster OF satin. Peau de sole has
r.ch half-lights on it's surface. and the
silk is twilied. making il more durable
than satin or many kinds of silk These
/ beautiful fabrics come in many lovely
4 tints in monochrome. In novel chame-
leon effects. in fsowered designs. and
also in many fancy devices appropriate
/ for bodice accessories.
| Straps OF braid terminate on many
costumes with the addition OF tiny
| bnclSles or fancy ribbons. and tailor
vests fastsn with the latter trimming.