The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-06-19
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE ANTI-FRENCH MOVEMENT MAY
CAUSE MILD RErRENCHMENT.
The Nervous Woman a Needless Trial
Mind Cure in Warm Weather.

q u.
AS result of war feeling and talk, says
a writer in the New York Ledger a large
contingent of patriotic DANES have decided
to refrain from. the purchase or wear of
anything distinctly Parisienne-indeed. it is
threatened to put boycott on all French
productions. However much or little this
may finally amount to- the effect of 1T is
plainly seen in the costumes of some of the
most eminent leaders of fashion in this
country; but it may be said that there is a
little danger that they will carry things to
an extreme. There Is, however, but a very
little probability that this sentiment will be-
come general.
Our market is loaded up with foreign
goods and if there is any indication of put
ting up the bars against them they will be
thrown upon the bargain tables. This being
the case, the boycott will have little effect
for the time being at least. One result,
however of the war feeling that is filling
the breasts of men and women alike will
be a little mild retrenchment and such a
conducting of affairs as will leave more
money for patriotic purposes. Plain cos
tunes and liberal contributions are becom-
ing the order of the day, and the loyal
women of the Nation are perfectly willing
to deprive themselves of at least one hand
some outfit in order to turn into the public
exchequer a few dollars to be appropriated
in fitting out or taking, care of the soldier
boys, who are the delight of the feminine
heart. ~% Etn
Especially popular and becoming are the
suits of duck and serge which all the women
seem to be wearing. The shirt waist, the
blazer or jacket and skirt appear every
where. They are convenient, comfortable,
easily kept in order and always ready to
put on-a combination of qualities that in
these busy days leaves little to be desired.
An ideal street costume is made of me-
dunn weight waterproof serge. The skirt is
without trimming save stitching at the
hem, and fits the figure very closely in front
and at the sides. The back is full plated
the jacket is perfectly plain and simply cut
with square fronts. turned-over collar, not
very prominent lapels side pocket just in
front of the left sleeve, and pockets on
either side at the waist line.n 1t is worn
with a short waist or blouse of India silk
and hat Of chip trimmed with scarf and
quill. There is decided fancy for washable
materials for these simple dresses. The ex-
IRENE OF luxury is reached when one donS
shirt waist of wash silk and a skirt and
Jacket of fine duck made up in the StricteSt
and most approved tailor fashion. In the
first place, the ability to indulge in wash
costumes lad lib. presupposes abundant
means, which is in itself a comfortable state
of affairs Then, daintiness is fashiona-
BILE, the wearer of such costume is able to
appear just she is, an up-to-date. indie
pendent Well-to-do, Well-groomed member
White pique is extensively used and makes
charming costumes for morning and infor-
Never in the history of dress has white
been so generally used as at present. 1t is
even invading the mourning department
more dresses ordered for
ladies in black than have ever been heard
of before. Indeed, every effort is being
made to break the monotony of the intense
ly scmber costumes that custom prescribeS
as first mourning. Dresses of nuns yelling,
cashmere, pique, serge and cotton goods are
called for every day. These are made up
on very simple lines, great care being taken
to avoid everything in the way of elaborate
ness. &D ot
Embroidery and ribbon make up the
trimming seen on some Of the most stylish
cloth dresses. 1t requires five or six pieces
of ribbon to trim dress in this way. The
ribbon is put on in arabesque or flower de-
signs, the leaves being made by turning the
ribbon into points. This is basted on the
Fabric, then the deft-handed embroideress
takes up the work and fills in, Celebrates
and finishes the design with silk, very mar
row gimp and fancy ribbon.
Ribbon and silk work are seen on some of
the more elegant costumes, and for the
many who are skilled in the handling of
such materials, a plain cloth costume and
a basket of odds and ends of ribbon and
silk present unheard=of- possibilities One
dress has a garnture. of autumn leaves
made of silk in various rich, dark shades
These leaves are folded. stitched down and
embroidered in as nearly the natural colors
may be.
An exceedingly rich garniture is row of
tulips made of silk in the natural colors of
the flower. The blossoms are made OF cut
out pieces of silk folded over bits of wad-
ding to give them the roundnesS of the nat
ural flower. They are then set in row
around the hem of the skirt and form
most gorgeous and attractive trimming
Tho mi of ic = loo
and IN the folds of the lace the tulips are
half concealed.