davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-05-12

(Contlnuet on Sixth Page.)
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-05-12

WASHINGTON. May if--ForsesH -
Thursday: -.
virginja-Partly cloudy weather. proos
ably showers in northern and eastern
potlons: southely winds.
North, South Carolina ana
Partly cloudy weather; possibly s"o"
on the coast; southerly wlnds.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-05-12
"sTATE RIGHTS. p

Against Chief-Justice Marshall's views
Justice Brown placed the strict construc-
ZIONIST or State-Rights party as repre-
sented by Mr.. Justice Daniel OF Virginia,
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

other tradition. have always thought they invite the girls they know best. The college etiquette is very rigid here When the college boys get up a hop they want the girls to come that they know well, and those who have been brought up in San Francisco and Oak land naturally invite young ladies from those placeS-thoSe at whose homes they have been entertained most likely.
 T think on the whole their standard of womanhood is high. The sentimental, foolish girl is rot encouraged here. If ever she comes here by mistake the hard work or the lack of al recitation on the part of the masculine side of the university drives her away again. Col lege arrangements rarely occur-it is different from Stanford in that re- spect."
 Very different from the quiet parlor of the girls fraternity h use was the busy waiting-room at North Hall. Co., eds were everywhere and the air was full of the hum o these literary bees. The two rather gloomy waiting-room are the exclusi--e property of the uni versity girls. Ho-e they tell their se- crets, prepare their lessons and eat their lunches.
 Above the hum of voices f1oated the words: He is the most out and out woman hater I ever saw. Of course you know about"
 My guide through this maddenine
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

spending to all her prettiest summer dresses. Stocks of creDon-that is. the neckwear part of them of crepon-are exceedingly popular as well, and much in the mode.
 Boots are little changed, the difference being in still more rounded toes and big ger soles. Gayly plaided handkerchiefs with no sign of white are abroad in the land.
 As regards hats, the top hat has very little roll or shaping, the derby is much flatter in the crown and very much smaller. Small lightweight hats, even in StrawS, are the order of the season. Knox says that the green Prince of Wales will be the lat of the year for out or town, though the demand for it has hardly set in as yet.
 The cloth in fashion is natural home spun, rough handmade homespun, the top coat with a velvet collar and double breasted lapels. It is a single-breasted bound with velvet. It is cut very full.
 To be fully in the fashion you should have a morning coat that is a long waist ed cutaway with broad back and very full straight-cut front with flaps at the side. The waist line is exceedingly low, and will make this coat a marked one. The pockets are cut below the waist seam.
 ever, the patterns more pronounced. A few of these freaks of fashion 1t is well to remember. very favorite color will be gray. A. popular frock coat is very long tailed, and of almost an elephant gray color. Broken checks will be much seen. The new -waistcoat for morning wear is cut exceedingly high shows very little shirt front and is colerless. A new country wear material is of blue flannel with a white stripe in the goods
 Golf waistcoatS have become an esseE- tal part of fashionable mans wardrobe The finest are sleeved.
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24
and fashion which promises to be un. becoming is doomed at it's birth.
 BRIGHT COLORS
 FOR BEST DRESSED MEN."

(" RIGHT colors and plenty of them, unique and original combinations Il Vof tints and designs, will char acterize the gear of every we'll dressed man this summer and spring.
 It is to be 'gay clothes" year in remarkable degree. While the most of the novelties are designed for the young CT men of swelldom and the gorgeous raiment will be worn, in the main, by them, there are yet temptations in the way of garments and sundries put forth for the older citizen of the fashionable sets that he will hardly be able to resist.
 Thus every one of that portion of New York's mankind that takes a pride in keeping up with the fresh mandates of tailors and haberdashers will begin to display in a week or two some fantasies of dress that will seem odd and novel. Many of fashions kinks this spring are strange and radical.
 You should wear a green flannel out ing suit for example, if you would keep we'll up to the mode of the day as 1t will be when the first hot weather comes, a green flannel with tiny white stripe in it, while the popular country hat this year is the dark green Prince of Wales shooting hat, soft felt that is left high in the crown and is never creased, with a feather. or, what Is still better form, what is known as brush stuck in his band.
 1t is in shirts hose, handkerchiefs and neckgear, however, that fashion-and the very best. fashion, ,mind-is running riot with itself Pinks, blues. e5 greens and ana are the best of form. The color of the year, though, is heliotrope,. used in bars and irregular checks for shirts, and to mark the pattern on a ground of dead black, in neckties and hose.
 The "best-dressed men, as the phrase New York each twelvemonth. This is the opinion of experts. There is now no young man who could lay claim to the Where there was one some years ago there are now half dozen who rank equally in this regard More careful thought is being given to clothes on the part of the average young men of the day it is said, and the average standard is much higher. Probably five of the
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

upon life and its possibilities
 A bell rang and the graduate girl hur- ried away to class.
 Said the senior girl in her turn: Other things being equal, yes, But unfortunately strong meat is not meant for babes. And many a youth goes to college with a mental apparatus un- adapted to assimilate the virile food he must tcke in there. Then he is spoiled for practical purposes and all other purposes, social included. Unfortu- nately, again, the world does not dis criminate in this matter. And mans ability to turn a few glib compliments, to dance a deuX temps gracefully and to insinuate himself into the graces of the chaperon, is considered all that is essential to his social outfit; this, how ever, Is the proprium of many callow fledgings, outside of college circles.
 No, this is hardly the type to att tract the college-bred woman.
 "On the other hand, if the college wo- man is herself c weakling mentally, and sees with distorted vision nothing but desert of books over which she must eagerly nreSs to that mirage on the horizon, a career with a capital c. she is apt to lose sight of the vital things about her and become that crea- ture men most dread, the rampant blue-stocking. Then it is scarcely a. question as to whether the college man will attract this particular woman-he may, be he callow f1edgling or .not-but he will have none of her.
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

throng smiled intelligently at these words. "They are discussing one of the professors now. There are certain characteristics by which each one is known
 A young woman with soft brown hair and brown eyes sat with me in corner. She is a graduate student and very bright.
 Do college women prefer college bred men?' she repeated. Yes, on the whole I think they do. The facts stand something like this. The college woman of to-day is not the be-specta- cled blue-stocking of a former genera tlon. Many years of widening opportu- mites have come to accuStom her to her privileges and to emancipate her from the freakishness of which in her social isolation she used to be guilty. Is this the line of treatment you wish me to follow?
 Well then, it seems to me that in- tellectually she stands on common ground with man. She doesn't forget as she used to that spiritually she 1 is different from man-that there is the feminine and the masculine in human nature-that neither is complete with out the other, that both are needed for truest development Her demands are high-moral purity, intellectual insight, and the strength to do and dare. Men must have these qualities in order to win her respect"
 Are not these basal qualities which one might expect in all men?"
 Possibly. The college woman would be narrow indeed in her culture if she despised sterling worth in man be- cause he had not had her own superior advantages. But in general society. how many that are not college-bred have these qualities! Political jugglery, the narrow horizon of the business world and a tendency to plod along in ruts is the common order.
 "But the college man? We'll, he has been in contact with great minds-he has had access to all the wisdom of the 1 ages for a time at least-that is, If he wished for success. And according to l evolution, he can never go back to just where he was before; there has been i infused into his nature spiritual es- ! Sence.
 As to the comradeship of life?' The l college woman can afford to wait and l judge She knows that life will be as l she makes it; but as Ella Wheeler Will 1 cox says, she will make it according to the kind of man whose love she ac- cepts And I believe I am right in thinking that she more often trusts the man who has had the same training as l herself, and the same broad outlook
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

way of accomplishing this. When they have adjusted the loop, just before they are ready to fold -e long ends over and put the pin into place, they slip a folded sock into the loop. thus bulging that part of the scarf out appreciably. When the ends are folded over the sock cannot be seen.
 The favored scarf patterns will be a figured heliotrope or purple stripe on a black ground, a green stripe on a black ground that is touched with faint red, dark blue ground with black stripe in 1t, and the very new and curious viadier or vertical stripes of black on blue ground For men who want very gorgeous colors there is a brilliant green silk patterned In a silver white diamond and q no less gay red with a yellow da- mond. For field wear the latest is an Indian kerchief of red with curious white figures in it.
 Scarfpins are athletic this spring Tal- lyho horns, French horns, polo crooks, golf sticks and racquets. all in miniature thing. For Sundays these are not cor rect, and the wise man wears u pearl or little golden baD. The most fashionable of all, though, and that which will be the most worn, is a blanket pin of gold, pre- cisely like that used in the stable, about two inches long.
 Of a greater vogue than ever are stocks The stock itself is invariably of white duck. Nowadays it should not be starched stiffy The newest has a piece side to keep it stiff. The necktie or scarf appended to 1t is most usually of some pattern of red, for the stocks most ire quent use is on the golf field. There are many other varieties of stocks, however.
 It is one of the newest fashions of the day for a girl to make her best young man stocks of her gingham gown pat terms, that he may have neckwear corre-
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24
.uiooahln and useful to he disoarded.

serviceable and useful to be discarded.
 In the East gray will be worn very much but the shops here have few at tractive accessories in gray. Blue whip cord serge made in coat like the model, trimmed in fancy braid in black or blue, with the same trimming repeated on the skirt is a pretty novelty and very effec- tive.
 with a silk waist of the same material, makes a most satisfactory dress.
 One style of waist is made effective by small box plaits from shoulder to belt, both back and front. It is closed under made from two shades of green taffeta. Cut the ends for the bow of the darker shade and line with the light, using the light shade for the center knot. Make the belt the same, allowing the lining to just show above and below. Make it long enough to pass twice around the waist and tuck in the end, fastening it with
 There is very pretty new linen for shirt waist It is fine in quality and comes in stripes and plain at 50 cents a yard Three and a half yards will be required. The fullness of the new waist comes in the shoulder rather than in the neckband, as last year. The organdieS make dainty shirt waists. as does also white dotted swiss, which wears better.
 In San Francisco cloth waists made quite like the cotton waists are more com fortable than the thinner ones. Cloth will be worn quite as much as the silk and wears better in the office, Waists are so easily made ana SD inexpensive there be no excuse for a woman who wears old "best dress" waist in an office No em- blower likes to see an untidy woman in his office. He may never betray the fact that he notices such things, but he does just the same, and appearances count with him, too
 The English walking hat, with high bell shaped crown, trimmed in long dropping uuills will vie with the plain parlor hat and to some women is more becoming.
 In gloves the newest ones come with stitching the same shade as the glove Many women make it a practice to wear always the same shade of glove. As one who dresses in dark colors adopts a black. another a gray, another tan. Either of the latter will harmonize with any gown; another favorite is very light or white. These latter some consider more economi- cal as they clean so readily. It can be done at hCme by washing on the hand with a good toilet soap and milk.
 Be careful not to make the glove wet, and rub it quite dry on the hand with soft towel.
 Thin dresses can be so little worn here they scarcely pay for themselves, how ever pretty they may be, but the wash skirts will be found very serviceabie.
 There is a new material, crispine, at 50 cents a yard. which makes up very pret- tily, and without lining will laundry nice ly Made with a short jacket ending in
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24
THE BACHELOR GIRL
 LIND .HER PHJHMHS

@PfIE girl bachelor is leaving the i'm
 print of her strong personality on
 every article of wearing apparel be-
 longing to her sex. She has revo- ,,+ionized the fashion of neck dressing, and though strenuous efforts have been made by the manufacturers to introduce uretty chiffon and tulle fancies for this purpose, the mannish collar and cravat were never so much to the fore as they are to-day.
 Not content with remodeling the out side costume of her sisters, her cousins and her aunts, she now steps in and in .he superior arrogance of her position of independence of thought and action, she says to them: "You must wear pajamas. They are more comfortable, and to-day we are all for comfort, and not for fur bellows"
 The edict having gone forth, we find on the counters and shelves of one Of our department stores full and varied stock of women's pajamas. They are slowly but surely gaining headway, and the woman whose heart yearns for the filmy lace, embroidery and dainty beribboned robes de nuit of the past, is ashamed to follow this essentially feminine longing and reluctantly turns to the pajama counter.
 The swellest night dress is, as we all know, an elaborate affair, full and long and clinging about one in classic folds, and ohl so essentially womanly and be- coming. It is dainty and attractive, but wofully in the way of the girl bachelor, who has to jump out of bed to close her windows, climb on chairs and tables to put out her lights, and the hundred and one other things which a woman, wheth- CT she be girl bachelor or lovesick old time maiden, always leaves until the last moment before retiring.
 Therefore she will have none of them, and having heard from her brother just how comfortable and not at all in the way the pajarnaS are. she has decided to adopt and by dint of repeated requests for them in the stores she has succeeded fin bringing the dealer to realization of the necessity of keeping these articles in stock. So now they can be had for the asking.
 The fashionable up-to-date pajamas are not bad to look upon. and it is stated that they are by no means unbecoming to the fair wearers. They are made of wash silks in dainty colors and also of thin madras and cheviot. The waists of some of them are finished with silk cord, while others are fastened with ribbons and have lace trimmed collars.
 Those who have worn them say they are far cooler in summer and warmer in winter than any other style of sleep ing garment By their advocates it is predicted that they are here to stay; their opponents prophecy that they will be snort-lived in their popularity The dealers do not look for an extended sale and demand for them; they say that, like the divided skirt, they will die natural death in very short time. for there is nothing dearer to the dainty woman's gown-nothing more becoming to young | or old face than a pretty night dress. l Women, say what you may, strong l minded or old fashioned. are all vain,
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24
C0llEGE WoMFN'S OPINION OF
 @ocGEGE MEr.
OPINION OF

" WAITED in the pleasant parlor of
 the Girls Fraternity for the presi- K dent of the Associated Women Stu B dents to appear. A table with some
 dainty tea things stood invitingly by,
 delightfully."- suggestive of feminine
 taste the world over.
 The president, Miss Marion Whipple of Los Angeles, is typical college wo- man, tall, self-possessed, with an intel lectual face. She grasped my idea in- stantly and settled back luxuriously in her chair, the better to discuss the col lege-bred man.
 "The college men of Berkeley seem rather young to me, as I compare them with the Eastern college men I know I think it is because we are allowed to enter with less required work to our credit. As to their attractiveness Certainly the environments are the most favorable for proper development, the environments of college life, but everything depends on the man. With out the right material to act on, the environment can do nothing, of course.
 "One always wonders why some men ever come to college. I think men who never go to college sometimes are quite as attractive as the cOllege-bred men, but it means more when they are. They deserve more credit for what they have taken on of polish.
 How do I regard the Berkeley men from the social standpoint? They fall into two classes-one class, the small minority, who are discourteous and rude, I will not discuss. Their faults are due most likely to wrong home training; but the other class, the cour- teous, helpful men, I will discuss. They are thoughtful of little things, and de- lightful at parties. Of course there are some who have been spoiled, but one expects that. Then they are en- thusiastic over athletics and the true college woman likes that-she is en- thusiastic herself.
 Are not Berkeley men of the opinion that the really nice, high-bred sort of girl doesn't take a college course? ?"
 "Oh, no indeed! That iJ d tradition that has been handed down, but it is pretty well exploded now. They like us-that is, collectively. We are en- tirely welcome here."
 "But is it not true that in extending invitations to hops they give the prefer ence to the young society ladies of Oak land and San Francisco?"
 Miss Whipple laughed. ''That Is an-
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-24

cost, by the way, from S4 to S each. She will carry three of white duck, three of light summer silks of wonderful patterns of plaids and stripes, all very gay and gorgeous; one of line red flannel for the golf field, embellished with gold buttons; another of red flannel, made plain and without buttons of gold, and two Of light flannel of odd patterns and designs. Shirt waists such as these, in precisely this va riety. fashion says will be needed.
 This. nevertheless, will not be. sui ficitnt stock for the summer girl. She must have others, in such varieties and styles as she may please of madras, lin- ems, muslins and percales, several broad striped shirt waists, smart and stiff, be- ing required, heliotrope being the color that men have made the vogue of 1898 and established for shirt waisted girls.
 Around her neck must go a stock of white duck stiff and precise as is a. mans, and from this depends either a very large Ascot of plaids of huge siZe-wool being the material of materials for this, though a sporting girl should not wear wool neckgear SOlely-Or else a little bow prim and mannish. likewise of pIatds. ! nere are many fantastic shapes and fashion ings of feminine neckwear to be worn in conjunction with stocks on sale, but neck ties made precisely like mems will be really the only proper form.
 Patterns and designs of the new Ascots for women are innumerable. In general way, it may be said that the most strik- ing and glaring plaids will be the most fashionable, and should be bought, even if you are poor and only partly in the swim. For it looks as if the girl who was not in a blaze of color in neckties would be very much out of it this summer.
 In the Ascot are to go sporting" scarf pins. the new blanket pin, a huge affair in gold, pins that are made in the like- ness of golf sticks, tennis rackets and so on.
 Over the shirt waist sits, when 1t is needed, the golf cape the jacket of a tailor-made suit, when the skirt to that Is worn, or the new golf jacket of red cloth, a trim affair with bright brass buttons.
 The skirts, worn to the top boots, will include those of the tailor-made suits and fashionable tailor-made suits this summer will be of light brown or gray homespun. frequently homespun of a bright motted mixture. the coat with very short tails, the skirt rather closely fitted-white ducks and brown linen.
 A girl well equipped for small country houses should have six duck skirts and three of linen. Under the duck skirts she wears white India silk bloomers, made very full and reaching to the knee, and under the linens and the tailor-made suits boomers of black, dark blue or dark red alpaca and of blue or black wool