The National tribune., 1898-02-10

At San Luis de Cura, for instance,
which forms a Sort of link between the
pastoral wastes beyond and those sugar
cane indigo. tobacco, and cacao planta-
tons on their hitler side, the whole town
was apparently intoxicated.
Outgoing parties of cultivators had en-
counteTed an unusual influx of Llaneros-
men of the plains-and they affiliated alter
al the custom of the country" Elcostumbre
delpa:s. This memorable expression con-
fronts one everywhere, it answers every
thing, and explains everything 1t is the
invariable reply to whatever admits of no
other justification, and when man appears
dissatisfied with it, a Spanish-American
thinks he is a fool.
With respect to the then conditions OF
this place its MISUNDERSTANDING saloons
converted into madhouSeS and its streets
secured BY frenZied barbarians who, though
they may have been unable to walk, could
ride perfectly, one may make a short but
significant sta ement.
Here. in Cen raj America and Mexico,
when an average cOultryman cones into
town with a few small 60 n over and above
what he Is compelled To spend for neces-
saries, these are pretty sure 10 q fer the
most potent spirit p.ocurable. II II intDxl-
Gates him, wei and good; but if not. then
he will most kelly pretend 10 b Eaor Jughly
overcome; ana tn is done in or Ter Ia Stow
the ioitncsS Of his oprt and that indltIer-
ence with which ne regards expense
People belonging To the same class
much more nU nerau than any othcr-cx-
claim: See the drunkard. rh. what a
cavalier is this.' and this inebriate, real or
assumed, is respected accordingly
Ii rs perhaps, needless TO say that our
own especial b!ackguards welcomed this
state OF things in Vile de Cura and looked
upon it as Il blessed dispens2tion. SO we
dismounte1 them-nothing else could be
done-and they went adrift. OF course the
whole party got far;oJ5ly drunk, while
almost equally OF cOur5e-he having money
ramon was knitted 10 death sometime
during that night.
This was strictly in accordance with
"the custom Of the country; as also the
fact Of his assassins going away unmo-
lestei, until any unpleaSantneSs which
might have arisen from that exploit had
passed over.
Next day, and many a day thereafter
our way lay over waste lands, marshy
indeed, and destructive TO mules hoofs-
never shod because il is not customary.
But they were impressive in their vast ex-
pause as the ocean, and often beautiful
with ldxurlant grasses, groves entwined
by bigOnias, cOnvOivulus and passion flow-
ers.
Bands Of hall wild cattle or horses STAN
peeled 1T our approach, or gathered into
dense battaliOns looking at us cuTiously
from a distance. Every now and then
some dilapidated ranch reared its adobe
walls above the unduiating plains; turn
ing out 10 be ill-supplied, filthy and un-
comfortable.
As the distance heightened. these rastro-
Jos over which we rode became more wild
and desolate; the desert spirit over
shadOwed everything, and Il sense that
here man is nothing in comparison with
nature that Ieigns supreme, grew deeper
as we neared those solitudes in which this
is brought home To the mind in a manner
not la he alS
the wealth and resources of the world
would scarcely clear those mighty forests
growing where vapors from the South At
lantic swept westward by trade winds. and
condensed upon the Andes into rain floods
which nouriSh a vegetation that is posi-
lively overwhelming.
Approaching the Rio OrinOco deeply
rlfted valleys yawned amidst wide ex-
panses Of rich humus, outcropping masses
OF granite and gneisS showed where sub
teuanean fires had been at work, and
faint ana Tar upon the skyline serrated
mountain SUBMITS shimmered in sun
light, vailed themselves with clouds and
showed anew.
IL was in the midst Of this desolatior
that our first adventure befeli us We
were encamped-th is TO say our animals
had been picketed, fires made and tho
hammockS slung in "A broad quebrada q
valley then, but once-incalcuIable ages
ago-an estuary, where ocean tides wore
away Its rocky sides and the waves sculD
tured and eXcavated them.
This was the hour i'm which to refnembe,
what information that day had brought: e
look around and see the meaning of those
things at hand. Above all, il was thu
hour when a traveller smokes PEACEFUL,
his strongest pipe, and appreciates yshai
Arabs mean IN calling tobacco the grea
CONSIDER"
Into meditations befitting such a scene
and such an occupation Henrique, cousin
as aforesaid of the defunct Ramon, burst
suffering with excitement He wishes
the Apostles might repudiate him if Their.