Evening star., 1898-03-12

crowned peaks. rushing rivers, miles and
miles and miles of olive orchards, groves
of cork trees, snow-laden ranges of noun
tains. desolate. wind-swept plains old
Roman roads and aqueducts, Moorish ruins
everywhere. Just now the almond trees
are in full blossom, and beautiful indeed
they are.
We went over to Tangier also for few
days and loved its ouaintness and beauty.
Intensity Of blue in sky and sea, a start
hngly white city, high on rocky cliffs,
roof gardens, gay with flowers, awnings
and rugs: streets five feet wide, twisting
and turning. going up hills at an angle of
forty-hve degrees. descending again by
steps, down which the careful donkeys
tread serenely. L was not looking when
my animal first went down one and before
knew It l slid over his head and was
standing on my feet. The curving beach
merges into the sandy way that leads in
land to the desert In the early mornings
| sat at my window nd watched the long
trains of laden camels coming in to mar
ket.
Everything is so delightfully."- oriental.
One Is awakened at night by the watch
mans cry, There is no God but Allah, and
Mohammed is his prophet"
Lost in Tnngier.
I got lest in Tangier. Just for a brief
half hour 1 thought regretfully of the
beautiful streets of Washington and Won
CeIeu HoW long IL WCulu take my friends
to notify the American consul and have
me found, dead or alive. 1t was all on ac-
count of taking photographs. My ardor as
camera fiend is somewhat dampened
Our guide the best in Tangier. Hamed ben
Mchan med, had piloted us safely through
the pandemonium of market day. Snake
charmers and camel drivers, beggars and
avaricious shopkeepers. all had bowed in
deferential reverence, awed Dy our guide s
authority. l paused to take a last photo
graph of the beautiful Moorish arch. daz-
zl:ng and exquisite in the setting sun, and
of the surging, excited horde beneath it.
n moment ! was wrapt in ecstacy-so pic
turesque was the scene before me, so
utterly unreal it seemed. The heavily
laden donkeyS, the slowly moving camelS,
the weirdly ragged teggars. the stately
Arabs. with their proud. free carriage. their
perfect features, their grace and haugnti-
ness; the lofty buildings, pure st white or
faintest blue; the city rising tier above tier
tC the cs srle or its height At last recall
ed to earth by the twitching of my dom
keys bride. l bowed nay head and sig
nifed to the hideouS, deformed Moor wno
guided him my Willingness to so on. With
blow and word he urged my donkey for
ward at a reckless pace. l saw nothing of
my friends and knew but one word that
was ineligible 20 the man in whose hands
Tor the moment lay my fate, and that was
"Hamed." 1 said that repeatedly and ques-
toninSly. and he grinned and nodded and
pointed ever onward. So we flew along .y
even narrower and less frequented streets
until my feet and shoulders brushed on
either side the high, windowless walls,
which seemed to shut out the sky itself.
tried in vain to stop either the donkey CT
the man. More and more squaliG grew the
houses, more and more curious were the
locks of the few passers-by. Just as the
patience of even an American girl was eX-
haustad q will not say her fortitude) a
n an stopped kindly and asked in French
her trouble. Neve: was angels visit well
coined more. and eagerly she asked that
the mule driver might be made to return
to the market place. In ten minutes it was
done. and never mortal was mere glad to
see that crowded space again and get her
bearings.
Soon Hamed the faithful. who had been
running all over the city to find her. grasp
ed her donkeys rope once more, and after
that he never left her. "Armes Kind" he
called her. and talked German by The hour
to make her forget and smile.
What linguists those guides are! Hamed
speaks English, French and German with
scarcely an accent and large vocabulary
He says he speaks Russian also. Spanish
and Arabic are a matter of course. He
was quite a traveller, had been with Bar
mum in America, at the Paris exposition
and at the worlds fair in Chicago.
Lillian HAYDEN.