The herald., 1898-04-24
With Easter behind US and summer

With Easter behind US and summer
ahead, the item Of wearing apparel
which is of most interest to woman,
young and old, rich and poor. is the
shirt waist. 1t has come to be taken
as a matter Of course almost as much
as mans corresponding article Of at
tire, and the question is not any longer
shall I buy shirt waists this summer"
but what kind Of shirt waists shall
buy?"
The woman Of wealth pays five and
six dollars for hers, which is made of
the finest French gingham; the type
writer girl buys hers for ninety-eight
cents and is just as happy. Between
these extremes there are many grades
to suit different degrees Of affluence.
Thus it develops that "by her shirt
waist you shall know her." and it be-
hooves one to use care in the selection
of so important a badge Of social stand
Ing.
Up to the present writing, there are
very few absolutely plain waists, such
as were in vogue two years ago. Even
II it is untrimmed, the material is sure
to be checked, or striped and made
upon the bias in such a way as to ap-
pear decorative. The fronts of a striped
waist are frequently cut on the bias
and fasten under box pleat on the
straight. If the fronts are straight,
the sleeves are bias.
Most waists have yoke in the back,
and are laid in fiat pleats below it, so
IN n the hqnk Go
Importance is attached to the necessity
Of avoiding a baggy appearance that
some of the silk waists are made on
Innings. The silk shirt waists are made
in very elaborate fashion. All of them
are either tucked or corded, and in
deed are so much trimmed that it is
hardly correct to cali them shirt
waists. Since revers have been added
to their composition, they are complete
without an outside jacket and suitable
= for almost any function. They are
frequently seen at the theatre, on the
street. in church. at home, or any place
where a semi -dressy garment is re-
quired. These waists are not difficult
to make, and one who cares to econo-
mize may save much money by buying
the material and blouse pattern and
going to work on the waist oneself.
Four yards Of silk will be fourd an
ample pattern, and one yard of plain,
contrasting silk is sufficient for tucked
chemisette, collar and revers.
A stunning waist Of this description
can be made Of white taffetas with
burnt orange silk trimmings. The
orange silk is laid in fine tucks and
used for facing on the revers, for the
chemisette, collar, and the turned-back
Nc hi fp !, 1,0
low the revers with cuff links which
may be nothing but crochet linen or, if
one can afford them, the finest enam-
eled jeweled buttons on the market.
This involves working pair of button
holes on each side, but the style Is so
pretty that one is glad to take the
trouble. The tucked silk chemisette
may be replaced by lace or muslin
whenever one wants more dainty eff
feet for an afternoon or evening func-
ton.
) A yellow silk waist made on the same
,spattern has tucked fronts with the
tucks running diagonally down from
the shoulder. The chemisette also Is
tucked, but the revers are plain and
both are made of white taffetas. The
sleeves have two clusters of three
tucls above the elbow, and the ruffie
around the hand is tucked.
Many Of the new silk waists are fin
ished with tucks or ruff1es or cording
below the belt, so as to be worn outside
the skirt. A heliotrope waist, which
has a white tucked front and is corded
down the edges that border on the
plastron, has a narrow corded basque
below the belt.
a few plaid and striped silk waists