The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-01-16
xorrs.

~ viii utencu nhLlVB CTlllCb. MO
hotel proprietors are keenly alive to tho evil
OF tho system, particularly those who condu,
winter and summer resorts; but they are col
rontod with such persistent, ignorance on III
part OF their patrons that thoy are powerless
correct the evil. They complain that It is hop,
less TO attempt to educate tho general travcllin
public to the employment Of n moro rationt
way OF feeding, one that shall not only add I
gastronomic enjoyment, but also reduce Target
tho daily expenditures. An account has bee
published Of the views on this subject Of Oh
owner OF n vast caravansery in Florida
where n fortune has been lavishcd Il
providing every modern convenience an,
luxury. Observation of the method Of cor
Quoting this establishment suggested in
CURRY OF tho manager II IL had never occurred
70 him to sorve table d'h6te meals In courses. a
is done at many city restaurants and invariabl,
be tho greatest improvement that could be in
trodnced into American bookkeeping. To ON
phasize the absolute extravaganza and absurd
Y OF tho present system, the manager produced
the menu Of the Christmas dinner OF the nexl
cost Costly a and p sslicSto G article ssa Of feo SN pdSsiSia to ST pqo
would be called for. He expisined that no nun
preparation of such a variety of meats and
sauces, Under these conditions the people who
eating; This particular meal cost the manager
fop Than the total amount he would receive
vi tMonty-iour nours board and lodging. from
Oil his guests. If this system could be abolished
and that Of the table d'h0te substituted, he said
that he could Discharge two thirds of his wait
as deftly and silently as in a private house. at a
person. and at the lower rate his house would DO
a profitable investment. which It is not now, so
great great, would SS be the saving: The reason as
Quoted SO wastefully YVES that the majority of
travellers lived so simply ut homo that they lost
1 MI lalfNnnfrnI rEhar N~l .-tNl H. -
portunity offered at a hotel to order in pro-
fusion, expensive dishes that they rarely or
dishes are not consumed, but merely tasted, and
thereby rendered unfit for further use.
{. II. Sem. in an article on "Foasts and Epi-
cures of Olden Times" prints an authentic list
of the materials used at q banquet given in
147o by the Earl OF Warwick to his brother
George Neville, upon his being raised to tho
dignity Of Archbishop of York. Among the
articles provided wero 800 tuns Of ale. 1O4 tuns
Of wine. 1 tun Of spiced ale, 10 fat oxen. 9 wild
bulls. 800 pigs. 1904 wethers. 400 hernsies
young herons). 200 pheasants. 500 partridges,
1000 woodcocks. 400 plovers, 100 curlews, 100
quails. 1000 eggets, 800 hogs, 800 calves. 5000
geese. 5000 capons. 100 peacocks, 200 cranes,
200 kids. 1000 chickens, 1000 pigeons.
1000 rabbits. 2O4 bitterns. 1000 ducks,
200 rees, 1000 bucks, does, and roebucks,
$50 hot .venison p~asties, 1000 dishes of jellies,
1000 cold vension pasties. 1000 hot custards,
1000 cold custards, 400 tarts, 800 pixies, 800
feast required the services Of 1000 cooks GS
kitcheners and 515 solutions. The number Of
people who partSok Of this feast is not given:
to 10000. The cost Of such a banquet would
n1s h hSe prl ssen o, e < sshSit as at that
was the same-about 8 cents zach: a
tnTrbot cost u cents; o fat hog about
could be bought for 2 cents: a swan for 8 cents,
ana ale FOR 3 cents a gallon. The estimate
9ue ehe 81 f the Earl qf q RsF%Ss nsw TeG 1 %a = I'd the 1",s ssn:
reduced II their appetites and capacities were
constructed upon the lines of those of Milo and
Sem gives the origin OF tho colloquiai phrase.
composed OF the "umbles" or entrails of deer.
which was served at dinners to those of inferior
social status.
The purely commercial character of French
cookery as practiced at the Paris restaurant of
to-day is exemplifed In an esta blishment In that
city which appeals almost exclusively to Eng
lish patronage. The dishes served there arc
named after British royalty. the nobility and |
noted statesmen. Animelies d'dgneau a la Prince |
de Gales and Cr6tes de coqs Jdrcics d Ia Cham
beridin prove irresistible to tho English middle
class traveller. who without their suffixe would
disdain lambs fries or spurn stuffed cockscombs
as a vile French invention. 1t was very differ.
in the carly years of this century, when the |
great Brinvilliers WINS the proprietor of a
Paris restaurant. That was the era of
cookery. when to trifo with
the traditional name of n dish was
looked upon as sacrilege. Brinvilliers's restaur-
mt was the resort of a clientele even superior to
that OF Very. although the latter fed the allied
during the occupation of Paris in
1911, Brinyilliers's attracted those princes,
He made himself personally acquainted
win their tastes and served to each in its
Try. IL was his business to make himself known
70 each party of distinction that dined or supped
bis house. With tho warmest interest in
IF would Rims"if order one G Of %hic She'I NO
cellar Of which he alone had the key. This is
; ,nDE Ro6 6 : I, OF the he ideal pT1veyor; Careme; a
,roup OF great cooks who made the early part of
his century SO noted from a gastronomic point
view. was a remarkable example OF atavism.
he name Of jean de C~areme-which signifies
asst and more famous Caremo first came into
iotice through his skill IN the concoction OF de-
lulge during the Lenten season.
Cats have served heretofore as a substitute
or rabbits. No particular complaint was made
n Paris against the substitution until recently,
OF some reason tnere mas arisen q great outcry
gainst the slaughter of marketable cats, and
french ingenuity has been taxed to supply the
efficiency. This is found in a particular breed
4 African monkey. and these animals are being
imported into France in large numbers to fur.
ish the basis for 1dbie dc ii6pre-broiled hacks
4, rabbits. The African monkeys lend them.
elves very readily TO tho Disguise. as their
acks are very fat and feshy. Rabbits. under
ny culinary Treatment, are poor food. They are
mainly valuable as strenRtheners of sauce and
CUP stocks. For this purpose they are superior
lmost TO any other sort OF game.
Brussels sprouts arc a vegetable rarely cooked
n an appetizing way. They are generally either
oiled or saut6. There is n third method of
reating them that 10 superior to the other two.
trip Off the loose outer leaves; drop them, a fow
t q time. into a large pan of fast boiling water,
'oll sailed. SO AZ not to throw the water off tho
OIL. ALLOW them to boil hard for ten or fifteen
then place them in a colander and
bake slightly 80 as TO drain Off tho surpcrfuous
When cool dip them In beaten yolk
egg and roll In bread crumbs. Put a dozen al
time In q frying basket and plunge into boiling
II until the sprouts assume a golden color.
I'D on a very hot dish.