Omaha daily bee., 1898-07-31
LATEST THINGS IN woMAN's WEAR.
Chinese Azure and Wnttca- Gray the
FuvorIte CoIors for Modish Dresses.

Chinese Azure and wntten~ Gray the
Fuyoritc CoIors for Wodish Dresses.
NEW YORK, July ga perfect gown
that is nobiy planned is still a wolfe; a
weave all wool and silk and woven with so
open a mesh that the glory Of your founda-
ton skirt is by no means dimmed or OBJ
secured. AS far as the discerning eye is
able to see, this lovable goods is going to
push right on into the autumn and II you
happen to have even two or three of these
webby gowns in your summer wardrobe, lay
TO your heart the fattering JUNCTION that you
are very nicely provided with the beginnings
Of an autumn trousseau.
In case your equipment, however, does
not include a voile and you set forth to buy
one. be very careful not to drop into error
with regard TO the color Of the wolfe. There
ia nothing so offensive in these days of
hard high tones in dress as a tint or shade
that is demode or beyond the pale of fash
ion. A woman Is more severely Judged now
by the color than by the cut of her pretty
rig and yet more by the combinations of
colors her costumes display. OF all the
blues that have in the past twelve months
glowed on the dressmakers' horizon, Chi
nese azure Is the one right and only va
riety to wear. By this is meant the deep,
rich tone that glows on those jars and plat
tiers that are worth their weight in gold to
the students of ceramics, not a high, star
ing, frivolous blue, but a perfect match with
willow pattern cups when they are true to
the oriental potter's mark. With such a
blue yellow is thrown in combination.
Next after Chinese azure, vatican grey
claims distinct preference, and to mention
carbon brown is fairly telling tales out of
school, for it is one OF the surprises saved
for next season. In the ,atellers in Paris,
where experts and artists forever study
and invent combinations and schemes of
color, it has been decided for the immediate
future, or, to speak more emphatically. for
the next six months, to keep all costumes
so far as possible in but two colors, admit
ting, of course, black and white.
To further explain, a Chinese azure wolfe
may have belt, collar and lining of buttercup
silk and yet be p~rettily touched up with the
new white satin gimp. A vatican grey
foulard can be figured in black and further
adorned with discreet touches of sang-de-
boeuf silk under black lace. Beside carbon
brown, sage green and rose and black are
laid, and in this wonderful last color you
will soon see, in the shops, rich Venetian and
Vienna cloths, crepes and satin surfaced
silks, for already dealers in fine raiment are
clearing out the last Of the spring stock to
make ready for the rush Of the season next
on tne year 5 tTOBTdlH. "iIull d Z
all the buyers will be home from Paris, and
even now some of the early birds have come
back talking of the French substitution of
clear copper color for burnt orange among
the colors for trimming.
BibInck and Copper
All the handsomest black costumes in
cloth, drap de Paris and wool velours or
silk are, so they say, to. show copper silk,
satin and velvet undertake vests and panels
OF very open worked black embroidery. AL
ready some OF these black and copper gowns
are seen in Newport ball and drawing
rooms and every woman who lifts a black
skirt shows either a copper colored silk
~petticoat or foundation jupe.
More splendid than any other fabric yet
seen are some of the.vests and panels and
inserted vandykes on the very, very ad-
vanced black toilets. These costly scraps
OF material are coppery hued velvet, with
gold and silver threads shining out from the
silk mesh. The letting in Of vandykes and
the insertion of a color under braiding, lace
or embroidery shows signs, though now in
its incipiency, OF becoming a decided and
prevalent fashion likely to influence flu
ture dresssmaking, and IL our modes are to
be taken from the new importations seen
at the leading watering places then we may
make up our minds to hook and button all
our winter frocks under the left arm. Only
the commonplace bodice comes together in
front for a free field, for decoration across
the bust is demanded by the dressmaker
who leads. OF course, women may grumble
against this last order, but nevertheless
a more gracious and becoming waist Is the
result of the under-arm hooking.
Picturesque Sleeves.
Any woman with two intelligent eyes in
t.. l--a --1 - h-ns, LaAly ~ -,
eyes needs only to watch a we'll costumed
Casino group or take notes along the
drives at Bar Harbor, Newport, ETC., to re-
csive two or three very positive and re-
freshing impressions.
The first of these relates TO the pictur-
esque sleeve of the day. 1t Is close, so
close that ~hen made by an artist it hugs
the arm without a wrinkle and rolls up
from the small cuff that overspreads the
knuckles clear up to the armpits. Here,
like n smoothly drawn kid glove, the sleeve
opens bell shape around n small puff, which
rather a muskmelon in shape.
and, II the sleeve is cloth or silk, this puff
is most likely made OF gathered or pleated
silk muslin. To complete the arms decora-
ton, a very modest fiat epaulette extends
from the shoulder upon the puff. A bit of
braided cloth, two wedge shaped pieces of
goods or scraps of rich embroidery form the
epaulette that is invariably edged with a
narrow quilting of material from which the
puff is made. Through some flight of strong
imagination this arm bag has been christ
ened the Charles the Ninth sleeve.
Bodice Decorations.
Bringing her inquisitive vision to bear on
the body of the average good gown, the note
taking woman will observe. since all dress
waists hook up to the left, they all show
unique trimming and shaping tending that
way. A large percentage have their fronts
cut in an exact right angle triangle. The
point of the angle hooks under the left arm
over a fun undervest of soft yellow lace
or embroidered muslin, which shows thus
on the left shoulder and under the left
breast.
Other fronts spread up to hook on the left
shoulder but catch only once under the arm
for the material is sloped away below the
point to admit a gust OF lace or an under
vest OF brocaded satin to appear. To sum