Omaha daily bee., 1898-10-16

fort will allow. A small outstanding frill
can be left at both ends and trimmed with
fur tails, but the muf when completed
should have two distinct compartments for
the hands.
New surtouts.
Women to whom money is no object are
undoubtedly lending themselves TO the
fascinations of the very long fur coat that
buttons up double breastedly in front and
has long, solemn cutaway tails, but she
who is wise as we'll as lover of beauty
will scarcely invest any capital in the new
surtouts, as they are called, for their days
Of popularity will be exceedingly short. 1t
is very easy, however, to have to last
years fur coat small, pretty hip, long cut
away tails adjusted, and lace jabot or
complete new front, of bright brocaded satin
and lace laid on over the bust.
There really is nothing that has not
been told over and over again to tell now
about the application of fur as a dress trim
ming. Bands and bindings of mink or
broadtal crop out, in accepted style, on
handsome cloth and velvet costumes, though
In Paris they do cut from broadtail some
very lovely conventionalized patterns of
fruit and flowers and applique them on
velvet. Short Of trimming a gown with
pure gold leaf there is scarcely any decora-
tion more extravagant than this or any
more richly beautiful.
One damson purple velvet brought over
from Paris had series of large broadtail
bow knots, holding loose poppies of the
same fur, applied on skirt and body. Where
the edges Of the fur lay on the velvet
finish of the finest Jet beading was used
and all the centers Of the popples, and some
delicate intermixed vine like tracerles were
In ptati ion
1t was a costume, however only suitable
for an extravagant millionairess.
silks and Sntins.
Gowns. however, that will be worthy OF
preservation for appreciative posterity are
those made this season of the new evening
silks and satins. In the days of Louis XIV
such imperially beautiful fabrics were not
dreamed Of as Cotele dor, satin sultane and
taffeta croquete. The first mentioned is a
thick silk with broad bayadere ribs of satin
crossing it at short intervals. Such quality
and body has this goods that the ordinary
taffeta lining seems like tissue paper under
it. while satin sultane is duchess satin in
creased in beauty and richness ten fold,
and among these new goods a new shade
called Montenegrau red is to be seen and
admired.
In contrast to these fabrics, dyed a solid
color, are the truly exquisite figured and
embossed moires that merit all the reverent
admiration they receive. Over milk blue
ground Of moire, for instance. will extend
sprays of pink marsh mallows and ragged
robin, or golden climatis and pink tipped
daisies. The flowers stand out always
clearly defined and in the tenderest colors
| against the veined marble-like paleness OF
| the moire, while on the new taffetas the
| flowers are closely massed in broad blurred
bands of glowing color. Some Of these
| taffetas are excellent reproductions Of the
| handsome chined silks so popular twenty
| FIVE years ago.
| Flowered more and taffeta ribbon takes
place to the forefront, but the novelty Is
ribbon showing liberal powdering Of big
| and little loose silk dots. Somehow this
business of dotting things, or rather tufting
them with little fiossy balls, has crept into
great favor. A proportion Of the winter
| goods show dots, while many Of the felt hats
| are speckled with them.
| Hats and Gloves.
| The last word as to hats deals with the
| question OF crowns. Kid. fur and shirred
| silk crowns, with felt brms, have their
warm partisans, and the combination can
be recommended, especially the pudding
| shaped fur crown Some of the most en-
| tlClnS lttle tnedteT DOnuelS nave TWO tlnl
crowns of velvet, powdered with pearls, thai
| fit on either side Of the head. The theatel
bonnets are veritable top knots OF coquetry
| so minute are their proportions, and some
| times a Juliet crown of jet will flower
out a couple OF abnormally large pansies
one of white, the other OF black velvet
having their centers and edges Of Jet. No
another material may enter into the com
position of this bonnet, yet 1t will be mos
decidedly a thing of beauty.
All sorts Of queer applications are beint
made to quills and plumes this season
Bands of crinkled satin ribbon are fastened
somehow to the spines Of eagle feathers
or tiny breast down, from domestic fowls
are glued In fuzzy band along the spine
White ostrich feathers invariably have thei
spines dyed black and sometimes wee tag
OF fur are hung in with the feathery masse
of the plumes. In walking hats BROW
and gray quills absolutely dominate tn
, situation and some of these are the lon
mottled plumage from the Tyre birds tails
The seasonable golfing hat is denuded Of al
decoration. A checked chevot or twee
! hat is the thing that has a low crown and
broad fiat brim measuring the same widt