Evening star., 1898-12-31

posing Of the bonnet. Usually it is fragile
creation, and it is out of the question to
bestow it in the holder out under the seat.
There is nothing for it but holding it in her
lap through the whole performance, and
this is an uncomfortable and constrained
action. There is not much room in the
ordinary orchestra chair that one wishes to
add bonnet to ones floating possessions.
But with hooded cape the problem is
solved The theater capes are fetching lit
tie affairs, usually short for cape of this
season, reaching the waist line in the back
and rounding up In the front. Velvet is the
favored material, but it is not the only one
used by any means. Silk or some soft
heavy wooden material alike appear. A
very beautiful cape of automobile red
which was just completed was quite short,
hardly reaching the waist line in the back,
and rounding up to nothing at all in front.
1t had a very full ruff1e of velvet about the
cape and the hood when drawn over the
head so full that its edges ruffled over
the drawing strings or rather outside OF
them, until it too gave the effect of mar
row ruff1e. 1t was lined with white satin
and had bow of the velvet with very long
ends and very short loops which began at
the throat, although the loops hung TO the
waist. This cape Will be worn principally
with a gray broadcloth princess gown, re-
Heved with white silk yoke and stock.
White satin is not the most servceabie lin
ing for a cape of this sort. although the
most favored at present. much better
lining would be of a shade of silk which
would not so soon lose its freshness There
are gay shades which are yet so serviceable
that the cape could be folded INSIDE out ana
put under the seat
The Trimming Comes High.
There is no denying the fact that capes,
like all other articles of apparel, are most
elaborately trimmed with expensive ma
terials and are themselves composed of
rich velvet or silk, and further complicated
by additions of muslin de sole, chiffon, lace
and so on until one is tempted to feel that
unless the mad extravaganza is checked
dressing in the mode will soon to quite out
of the question except to the limited few.
Every cape has Hounce, usually of lace,
with one or two accordeon-pleated chiffon
ruf1ies under it. The Innings are an expen-
sive feature in the capes one Sees They
are usually white satin.
Imported capes show the distinctive
French touches, such as a buckle here,
black velvet ribbon there, or a simulated
hood tied down by a bow which interferes
most seriously with its usefulness, but adds
greatly to its beauty lavender moire
poplin which has just landed is made three
quarter length 1t has three deep pleated
chiffon ruffies. one over the other, and a
touch of white lace and ribbon at the
throat. The collar is high and faring a
regular Medici, but the collars need not be
described. They are all the one shape. and
stand out about the neck most protectingly.
Catering to the prevailing craze for span
gled effects makes the distinguishing fea-
brought over for a New York woman.
Black Brussels net embroidered with a
most elaborate pattern of sequins is put
over white brocaded silk and the effect is
gorgeous. I know girl who embroders
these sequin patterns for herself when she
wants anything extensively and exquisitely
trimmed. 1t is slow work and hard work,
but the result is triumphantly successful
This spahgled net cape had a ruffle of black
lace, just such lace as one sees among some
old family collections of that cobwebby ma
terial. Underneath the lace was pleated
ruffie of white silk.
Dainty Mock Hood.
The cords which are so much used for
trimming and which take a great deal of
valuable time were the distinguishing fea-
ture of a blue silk cape. It was corded just
above the ruffie with three rows and corded
across the shoulders with three more Just
below the cording on the shoulders was a
fold of the material which looked like a
hood caught carelessly down by bow of
the silk. When this fold was spread out it
proved not to be wide enough for a hood
to draw over the head, but it gave the
same effect. The hood, or imitation of one |
went all round the cape and was lined with
white. The description sounds heavy but
1t was not at all. 1t was merely pretty
trimming.
The graceful ostrich feather trimming,
which has not been seen for some time was
the distinguishing feature of another cape
A white sicilian, material which bears |
marked resemblance to the aibatross
weaves, made the cape. Across the shoul- |
ders and again Just above the hounce was
a row of soft ostrich feather trimming and
very soft and artistic it looked. More serv-
iceable but still expensive imported capes |
are made of gray broadcloth and trimmed |
with the same material put ON In different |
ways; for instance, one cape had large seal
lops of gray broadcloth set onto the circular !
blue flannel trimmed with white fur are
seen, az OF yore, only now they have CIR