The herald., 1898-02-06
RAMBLFS IN THE FORESTS OF MEXICO
Rare Specimens Of Flora-The Valuable Rubber Tree.
Interesting Anecdotes and Gossip

Vera Cruz bound for that part OF the
state of the same name lying near the
sierras of OaXaca at point where the
main slerras gradually fall away,
forming a great depression at the 18TH
mus of Tehuantepec. The journey after
leaving Vera Cruz city is full of interest.
Arriving at Alvarado after three
hours' run by rail through a tropical
coast scrub, in places swampy, then
through rich grass lands and patches
of cultivation where corn, sugar cane,
oranges, bananas, mangoes, pineapples
and other tropical fruits grow in great
luxuriance. all finding a ready market
in Vera Cruz.
At Alvarado we have an hour and
half before the little steamer leaves for
Tlacotalpam, twenty-six miles up the
Papaloapam; so having partaken of
good breakfast of turtle steaks, fish just
from the river, washed down with good
red wine and the fragrant coffee of the
country, sally forth in quest of natural
history specimens. Some strange ferns
are added to the collection; an immense
beetle (megalosoma elephas), most
formidable looking creature but per-
fectly harmless is found on the trunk
of a poinciana tree, and strolling along
the forest trail several beautiful butter
flies are netted, mostly species belonging
to the heliconidae, family unknown in
California, and remarkable for the
beauty of it's colors. On nearby groups
of cactus several iguanas lay basking
in the sun-immense lizards two or three
feet long. Some of them are far from
being the unpleasant looking animals
some people imagine. Covered with iri-
descent scales of different shades of
green, they reflect every shade of light;
others are repulsive in appearance, al
most black or dull brown in color, with
bristing crest and ugly gular pouch, and
one cannot imagine why such perfectly
harmless vegetarians should present so
fierce an aspect. Their flesh is white,
delicate and most palatable and is much
esteemed by the natives and by foreign
ers who can overcome their scruples.
Returning to the landing bathed in
perspiration from the midday tramp
under the tropical sun, l find the steamer
ready to start, and after much backing
and filling we get under way. The view
of Alvarado from the river is pictur-
esque. the old moss and lichen covered
cathedral, the buildings with arcades
and portals, cream colored, red tiled and
just softened enough with weather
stains, an occasional group Of coco
palms. their crowns sharply defined
against the deep blue of the sky all
make a beautiful picture.
Steaming slowly along against a three
mile current, and comfortably slowed
away under an awning, can enjoy the
scenery along the river banks and study
my fellow passengers. In one quarter
"a nf ha n, NJ tod nd
l soon learn that they are bound up
country to try their fortunes in a new
land cultivating tobacco. Others are
up-country merchants returning from a
visit to Vera Cruz. A dark eyed senorita
or two-these, with few peones in the
forward part of the vessel constitute
oIr passenger list. At in the after
noon we reach Tlacotalpam, one of the
t beautiful towns in the tropics of
~xico, a busy place, the distributing
point for vast country lying above
Here the San Juan joins the Papaloa-
pam, other tributaries help to swell the
flood, such as the Trinidad, Tonic, Colo
RADIO, Tesechoacan, Michapam, all with
the exception of the latter having their
birth in the sierras of Oaxaca.
At Tlacotalpam the produce of the
region above is accumulated; RATS of
Spanish cedar and mahogany lie float
ing in the river ready to be slowed away
in the hold of some vessel for far away
Europe or the states; here and there a
pile of lignum vitae or fustic accumula-
tions of coffee. hides, cotton aguardiente,
raw sugar and tobacco indicate the rich
ness of the country above. Going ashore
find fairly good hotel accommodations.
At table l am quickly aware of the
presence of loud and pompous indi-
vidual clad in the whtest of linen cloth
ing, speaking bad Spanish and ordering
the table mozos about with ldrdly air
/ take him for an up-country planter
a foreigner, the owner of vast estates.
Horrors! I learn presently that he is a
buyer of hides for New York house
another ideal shattered. That I should
have come so far for this is too bad,
however, have hopes that as l advance
toward the sierras such reminders of
our sordid civilization will have long
since been passed.
A few days are pleasantly passed in
this charming town. The weather,
though warm, Is tolerable. A series of
photographs taken here subsequently
turn out well, while daily walks about
the outskirts disclose many plant treas
ures. In the gardens I find old-time
India friends, murrayas and ixoras, |
though how they ever got here is a
mystery. The crotons, acalyphas and |
colored leaved caladiums are gorgeous
as grown in this eqMably warm and
humid climate, reachipg a degree of per-
lection never seen in our hothouses. |
That most graceful of all palms, the
oreodoxa Regia or royal, is quite COM
mon. Here the cocoanut grows to per-
lection, and there is nothing more re-
freshing than the milk of a half-ripened
lut that has been kept cool or taken
rom the trees in the morning. Another
most refreshing drink much in vogue is
The tamarindo. This is the paste of
amarind pods conserved with sugar;
dissolved in water with ice it is delicious.
>eing agreeably acid.
Takings another steamer we ascend
he river to San Juan Evangelista. PASS
ng through much beautiful country.
mainly low land, grass covered, with
stretches of fine forest. This is a small
own as compared with TlacotaIpam.
he people are hospitable, though some
What inquisitive and until of late not
,ften seeing foreigners. Some anecdotes
re related illustrating their simplicity
" ideas. Among others the following