The times., 1898-12-25

itself, making the simplest meal cere-
monious affair of several. courses. The
canteen arrangement has Its advantages
as well as 1t drawbacks. Some essentials
are sure to be forgotten, such as salt. su-
gar, knife, or spoon: the food is likely
to be unpleasantly cooled In transit, and
in time everything tastes alike-of the
tin. tinny-from soup to dessert. On the
other hand, while men may fare well In
clubs and restaurants, women who are
alone in these lands where the medieval
idea of seclusion for females still pre-
walls cannot appear unaccompanied In
public places without great embarrass-
ment to themselves and frequent insult.
One who has acquaintances in the city
may be certain of invitations to stay in
private houses; but you should remember
that these proverbially hospitable Ha-
vanese have now little ready cash. De-
spite palatial city homes and extensive
plantations in the interior, the presence
of guest at the board for weeks or
months might prove a severe tax upon
the family and to offer money in return
would be to wound their pride beyond
reparation. Therefore. undeterred by
grewsome reports of fever. your corre-
spondent went to her old home, the Pa
safe Hotel, whose proprietors speak Eng
lish and make a special point of caring
personally for their guests. Luckily for
recent arrivals, the panic that ensued in
the Pasaje after the sixth American yel-
low fever patient had been taken out of
it left few unoccupied corners. The truth
is there is no more danger of fever in
one house than another. public or pri-
vate. in Havana.
Germs Lurk Everywhere.
Danger is present everywhere, and the
worst time is yet to come when American
sanitation begins in earnest. In all fever
haunted places, from Mexico to Brazil. the
experience of centuries is the same-that
the germs seem to lurk in the old walls
drains and sewers: and wherever the lat
ter are disturbed yellow jack. is sure to
break out in that vicinity. Even in the
always cosmopolitan. Pasaje great
change is apparent. During the last year
or two 1t has become the favorite place Of
our countrymen in Cuba, being newer and
nearer to date than the once fashionable
InSleterra; and just now, with its table full
Of officers. capitalists and business men
from the United States. one would hardly
know 1t from a New York caravansry-
except for the marbled floors, pillared sa-
Ions and yellow satin canopied bedsteads.
The SWEETEST officers of the Spanish army
also made it their headquarters; but It is
noticeable that those who yet remain do
not swagger so much as formerly, order
lessexpensive wines at dinner and glover
upon American pigs with a different ex-
preston of countenance.
In the Prado. in front of my balcony,
bands play every day; the evening paseo
in the beautiful Parque de Isabel is flied
with well-dressed chattering crowds, and
theaters are nightly thronged. But under
all this apparent peace and good will the
volcano smolders. .'the shadows murmur
but the deeps are dumb" Business pro-
| ceeds in its usual routine and the town
goes TRANQUILITY to bed-past midnight. be-
cause the typical Havanese is not given
over-much slumber: and 1T gets up before
sunrise, wondering what dreadful things
have happened over night and holding Its
breath in anticipation of possible occur
rences.