davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

;on which the fesher sits astraddle
From the fiesher the skins go through
a Sreasing process. where fine creamery
butter is literally slapped over the pelt,
the skin all this while remaining petit
out, of course.
WHEN DRESSERS WORK.
The next departure leads one to the
picturesque detail of the dressers' shop
Along either side of the room are
ranged large barrels of three-quarters
height. In this the men stand waist
deep while sacquing forms the cover
from the edge of the barrel to the man
body. This keeps i'll the heat which in
time becomes excessive, and in these
covered barrels the half-naked men
tread and tread day after day and look
as though they were practicing the
coucbe-couche dance. With their naked
feet they work the butter into the pelt
and fur and the heat which emanates
from their body forms a most import
ant item in the curing of the skins
shuttle board fastened obIiquely
across the front inner side of the bar
rel aids them in rotating the skins
which in time acquire a high degree of
heat, very surprising to the novice.
This heat renders the fur soft and sup
pie. Only few Skins-ten to a dozen
are trodden at one time.
When the butter dance stops the
skins are removed to a drying room
and spread over the floor. At the right
point of dryness they are gathered to-
sether and taken to the sawdust room
This sawdust is. in truth, pulverized
wood. as fine in quality as cornstarch.
Sometimes it is of mahogany, some
times of rosewood. The latter. however,
contains so much acidity that it is
used more spadngly. For the different
sorts of furs different dusts are used
wood dust for the darker coats and
fiou and marble dust for ermine. This
wood dust is expensive. and the supply
limited. In the curing season it be-
comes a serious item in the dresser's
trade
As only 10 per cent of the butter is
actually absorbed by the pelt. the rest
clinging to the fur. the dust is worked
very thoroughly into the creased fur
and cleanses it of the butter and rem
ders the fur soft and silky. The first
mechanical labor is here introduced.
when the skins, with a cODious supply
of dust, are thrown into a big revolving
tub, which initiates closely the rotation
Of treading and by passing over coils of
steam pipes gets warmer similar to the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

Henri DeIIX patterns that are stamped
on these squares for working, and that
emanate from able artists in London
and Paris. Quite as highly esteemed
as the beautiful Mexican drawn work
is that which comes from Russia II is
different from the Mexican, being done
on heavy home woven linen in the ma
tural or half bleeched tints of the fax.
From Russia is brought over also the
almost forgotten art of doing cut work.
The patterns on the handspun linen
squares are first embroidered and then
cut out until the finished piece re-
sembles a sort of superb lace. With all
these articles the owners initials are
worked in ore corner Of the narrow
hem.
Women who find pleasure in intro
ducing novelties in the arrangement of
their dinner tables are using candle
labra ard candlestickS in the form of
vases. A tall or short crystal or silver
vase, with rather wide lip and slen-
der stem, is so arranged that when fill
ed with flowers a candle can be fixed in
the midst of the blooms, while a most
unique and more expensive decoration
is an Illuminated ice castle. Caterers
freeze these in any form desired, and
some are most exquisite miniatures of
Chantilly, Warwick, the Wartburg. or
Hohenschwanga in Bavaria. In clear
or pale tinted ice the castle is frozen
and all its towers ornamented with
small candles. Not only is the castle
an odd and pretty ornament, but il
keeps the room at a very pleasant tenn
perature, in spite of candle heat and
the presence oe many guests.
Among the lesser items of interest at
the dinner tables this autumn are name
cards at every cover in the form of tiny
slips of very thin glass. The edges
are beveled and the names are engraved
on or laid on in gilt. Souvenirs and
menu cards are just as much ignored
as ever, and it is no longer considered
in good taste to lay bouquets and bou-
tonniereS beside the guests plates.
Those, however. who do not keep a
very wary eye on the march of i'm
provements in the way of table COM
forts, will be surprised to find several
new silver utensils this winter beside
their covers. With the fruit course is
now served an odd looking knife that
has q silver handle and the narrow
est of steel blade. This is accom-
panied by a rather deadly weapon that
appears to be a silver corkscrew mount
ed on straight silver shaft handle
In reality these new arrivals are de-
signed for the better mastery of or
anges, apples and pears. The cork
screw is driven, by a daft rotary mo-
ton, into the fruit. which is thus firm
ly held during the removal of the skin
and the pairing off of slices. Good form
dictates the having of the screw in the
fruit when all that is desired is eaten
from the heart or core.
Another addition to the deft handling
of food is pretty pair of scissors with
saw-like points. in place of a knife
like edge. along the blades. Between
the saws the tough ends of asparagus
are caught and held fast and the ten
der head can then be neatly elevated
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30
BARE BOARDS.
Mahogany Is No Longer Hidden
Under Damask Draperies.
oil instead

mdnoSany Is mo Longer Hidden
Under Damask Draperies.
If white is for brides, it is also the
most fashionable decoration for dining
tables. and all lovers of fancy work,
who not long since were covering yards
of linen with colored floss and flo silk,
are now giving their energy to the per-
lection of Swiss embroidery.
Plain white linen, embroidered only
in white, is the character of all the best
new tea cloths and center pieces
though white lace has not lost one whit
of its popularity. From the inexpensive
renaissance to the most exquisite OUCH
ess and rose point dinner tables are re-
splendent and some of the point lace
center pieces are splendid enough to
serve as the bridal handkerchiefs for
royal princesses. They are rather small,
and the lace is set fiat on a round or
scalloped center of finest French ba-
tiste that is embroidered in a wreath
of white flowers.
In consequence of this lavish use of
lace, nearly all the most formal dinners
of the past spring, and of the present
autumn, have been served on bare
boards. The lace center piece, accom-
panied by plate, decanter ard candida
bra doilies, is laid on the brilliantly
pOllShed, NAKED mahogany, or Gull
black oak, in order to achieve the best
effect and show just how beautiful your
lace set is. The same scheme is fol-
lowed where the board is ornamented
with a set of Mexican drawn work, and
though the rule is all for white, some
women gid refined gold by embroidery,
in cOlored floss, sprays and bouquets,
both on renaissance lace and on drawn
work. The consequence is brilliant,
certainly, but scarcely SO refined in ap-
pearance as the pure white.
LuncheOns, suppers and midday
breakfasts are now SO universally
served on the boards. with dollies only,
that the handsome damask tablecloths
are loking for jobs on bargain counters,
and the smartest little breakfast cloth
one can use, informally and en- famille,
is a large square of hemstitched linen
that is damasked all over. but not in
figures. and then richly wrought in
white Swiss embroidery.
Great attention is given to the de-
signs done in this new needlework. 1t
would require too much space to de-
scribe the Jacobean, Egyptian and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30
THE ILLS OF WOMEN
And How Mrs. Pinkham Helps
Overcome Them.
Mrs. MARY BoLL1NeER. 11o1 Mariana

Mrs. MARY BoLLINGER, 1101 Marianne
St, Chicago, ILL.,, to Mrs. Pinkham:
81 have been troubled for the past
two years with falling of the womb,
leucorrhea, pains over my body, sick
headaches, backache, nervousness and
weakness. l tried doctors and various
remedies without relief After taking
two bottles of your Vegetable Com
pound, the relief obtained was truly
wonderful. 1 have now taken several
more bottles of your famous medicine,
and can say that am entirely cured"
Mrs. HENRY DoRR, No. 500 Findlev St,
Cincinnati, Ohio, to Mrs. Pinkham:
80 For a long time l suffered with
chronic Inflammation of the womb,
pain in abdomen and bearing-down
feeling. Was very nervous at times, and
SO weak was hardly able to do any
thing. Was subject to headaches, also
troubled with leucorrhHa- After doc
toring for many months with different
physicians, and getting nc relief, l had
given up all hope of being well
again when / read of the great good
Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com
pound was doing decided immedi-
ately to give it trial. The result was
simply past belief. After taking four
bottles of Vegetable Compound and
using three packages of Sanative Wash
L can say feel like a new woman. L
deem it my duty to announce the fact
to my fellow sufferers that Lydia
E. Pinkham's Vegetable remedies have
entirely cured me Of all my pains and
suffering. have her alone to thank
for my recovery, for which l am CRATE
full May heaven bless her for the
good work she is doing for our sex"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

of public appearance. This month
promises the beginning of a stately
procession Of long wraps. Long, shawl
shaped capes. tailor. made overcoats.
simple and deliberately decorated red
ingotes and pretty Victorian pelerines
are all in line for winters parade. An
odd and pretty garment is cut rather
on the fashion of a priests soutaine
and gathered about the middle by
band of fur, or d sash of silk. Every
type of material is used in the make
of such long and enveloping garments,
from white satin overlaid with black
lace, to the heaviest felt cloth piped
with fur, and fur trimmed braid
As to q question of color in such
cloaks, pay your money and take your
choice is the rule, though a preference
is shown for golden brown and a tone
called Bismarck gray that has a warm
touch of blue in it. Very smart indeed
are the women who effect smooth cloth
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

From the animals back to the lady
shoulders there is much skilful hand
ling of high priced furs Aside from
the trapping and selling. and the max
ing into modish wraps and intermedi-
ate step occurs, and upon this depends
more truly the ultimate value of the
skin than its depth of tone, purity of
color or even rare breed to which it
was assigned by the Creator. In con-
sequence ordinary skunk skins have
been made beautiful martens at the
dresser's shop, while the rarest of sable
has been rendered useless. As a trade
this intermediate handling has been lit
tie affected by the advance of me-
chanical ingenuity. 1t still remains
primitive trade of hand work. and
foot work and mans labor No mechan-
ical device has ever been made to equal
in delicacy and result this contact with
human flesh.
Machines there are for the curing and
tanning of skins-skins of the lower
grade-rabbit and opossum. and the
heavier pelts are put through a ma
chinery process. But the high grade
furs-the costly skins-sable, ermine,
mink and chinchilla, still are manipu-
lated almost entirely by hand, and this
together with the increased demand
and decreasing supply adds to the final
cost.
FLESHING AND BUTTERING.
The work of the dresser is interest
ing, and in stages highly picturesque.
The skins are turned over TO him by
the firm who buys its seasons supply
in the raw state. The trapper has lit
orally skinned his game-turned the
outside or fur side in. leaving the en-
tire pelt exposed-hepce the old nursery
joke of 'skinning the rabbit The
skins are creased to preserve them
from vermin and soon turn stiff. This
the raw state.
In curing, the pelt is first put through
a softening process-a chemical soiu-
tion-and the skins are then tubbed.
Here they remain in the salt and wa
ter or similar wash as required over
night, possibly Il hours longer. The
skins are wrung out of this bath and
partially dried. then turned over to the
hesher. This is another department of
the trade and requires skilled hands TO
scrape these skins properly. This is
done on upright knives set slightly
lblidue at the end of narrow bench
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

mixed. then removed and the contents
stirred every few minutes until per-
fectly cold. 1t is now ready to be
packed in small pots Qike those that
come with extract of beef, and covered
with paper dipped in the white of an
egg, to become air-tight. The face
should be washed with good soap and
hot water, shading off to cold, over
night, and this ointment carefully mas
saged into the skin.
When glycerine is omitted, use sweet
oil instead
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

overcoats, hugging the figure close and
dropping their tails to the heel. Line
upon line these are copied from the
frock coat that adorns the fashionable
man of an afternoon, with the eXcep-
ton of the shaping of the front. over
the bust the coat is cut out in the form
of the letter u; from this turn back
small satin faced revers and then q
shower of lace ruffles. or a folded silk
kerchief, or the charming facade Of the
gown beneath is displayed. No warmth
OF any importance is expected to accrue
from the low falling tails They are
meant to drape soft and gracefully, are
lined with a thin silk and are slit up
the back to the waist line
FLOUNCED PELERINES.
There is a saying that no one but a
French woman can wear shawl
gracefully, but undoubtedly American
women are proving their capabilities at
shawl wearing by bravely and becom-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

ingly adjoining themselves with the
dounced and sloped pelerines in the
market. II you open one of these we'll
made capes you viii be apt to find in
side loose silk jacket, somewhat like
the blouse a Chinan1an wears This is
Of wadded silk sometimes and serves
to keep the wearer snug and warm
while the flowing exterior line of her
wrap is not interfered with.
Making allowances foy usual excep-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30
SOME NEW THINGS IN WRAPS.
Pretty Victorian PelerneSA American Women Learning to
Wear the Shawl.

New York, Oct. 25.-Chiu November's
surly blast may make field and forest
bare, but it certainly populates the
ponds and Kinks and fills the street
seape, so to speak, with very interest
ing giimpses Of the fashionable long
cloaks. Last winter. and for more than
couple Of winters before that, wraps
below the knees were somewhat chary
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

may easily be pressed from this vegeta-
BILE by cutting in bits the size of half a
lemon and pressing in the squeezer in
the same way as lemons. Stir in, also,
two tablespoonful of glycerine and one
of honey. (The former may be omitted
if it does not agree with the skin.) At
the last add few drops of any nice
scent. The saucepan should be kept in
hot water until the ingredients are well
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30
He'll Need It.

Pick-Me-UD: Mrs. Timpkins was TAX
ing her son to school for the first time.
and after impressing the schoolmaster
with the necessity OF his having a thor
ough, good education, finished up By saw
ing: And be sure he learns Latin -
But, my dear madam" said the school
master, Latin IS dead language
All right said Mrs. Timpkins hell
want it. He's going to be an undertaken"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

heat of the treader's body. The furs
and dust are revOlved rapidly until SUI
ficient dust has been taken up. when
they are dumped out, picked up separ-
ately and given deft shake and the
hand labor is again called into use
The skins are spread to air. beaten,
turned fur out and given to the cOmber.
lie finishes the silky coats; evens uD
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

skins to point of symmetry. For, with
the Indian traDDer a hind leg comes
very handy for his chief. or to work
into his tribal robes. and many a four
legged animal arrives with Il three
legged skin at the dresser's shop. Then
half of the hind leg is deity sewed to
the trunk. and the skin is dressed.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

dyeins OF seal, which our climate and
chemical condition of the water make
impossible, the United States of Amer
lea leads today in the curing and tan
ming and dressing of furs as its women
do in creating the greatest demands
and the most appreciative fur market.
HELEN HAZELTINE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-10-30

and nioDed off by the teeth. These
same little scissors are employed in
eating artichokes.
FANNIE ENDERS.
, 1898-05-07

"Wednesday ~ saturday
Terms eff Subscription
c dollars per onnum, payable half-yearly
in advance. ..
Parties ds.pw Of Withdrawing their subscription 70
le 7AZis are required 10 give 3 months notice.
Terms of Advertising
approved by Government 18th june 1880.
For am advertisement Of s lines or under,
j to 3 insertions ::
Small Type Drevie) l to 8 lines~~~~.SI.l0
Over 8 lines, per line. $500. $500. 10
Large Type, Long Primer, Small Plea,
Plea and Columbia, ] to s lines.... LOO
Over S lines, per 10
For a line of the largest ype.......-.. .l6
For one to three subsequent insertions the
half amount Of these charges will be made,
~ All advertisements for insertion must be delivered at
His Office on tuesdays IL Fridays not later than
ONE O'CLOCK j.. IN. The postage on letters 20 this ONCE
from West End or st. Thomas must be prepaid Of no notice will
be taken Of them.
mi to advertise yearly, halfyeary OF quarterly.
no ributOr cannot pay any attention TO
anonymous communications; every article must be accompa-
pied by the writer's name, not necessarily for publication, but as
an evidence of authenticity, and for our own security; and It
must be I distinctly understood that when a communication IS in
serted the editor does not necessarily agree with the opinions
pxrressed by the writer. w cannot undertake TO return nor
reserve rejected manuscripts. Manuscript matter must be
written only on one side of the paper.
JOB PRINTING g Sssi@e.i at 5I as. 0mGi with
, 1898-05-07
ekjendtgjore1se

/ ieg efter Bcmyndieelse af
y Gouvcrnementet har meddelt
Fuldm2gtig I. SrRlDIEON Tilla-
delso til ! nit Forfald og paa nit
An og TiIsyar at kyitt,re for allie
til ml5 som est. kongelig Kassercr
paa 81. CroiX stcdiindcnde Indbc
talInger bekjendtgj0reS herved.
St Cro'N. den 21dr Aprll 1925.
UJORT.
, 1898-05-07

| IS hereby nude known that ac-
cordlng to permission from the
Government | have authorized MI.
l. STRIDIRON, clerk in the ROYAL
$'ookkeeper Office, On my behalf to
issue receipts for all payments,at the
Royal Treasurcr's Onice.
q. CtolX, the 27th April 1898.
HORT.
, 1898-05-07
OFFICLlL 0TlCE.
Bekjen ~@tgiCrelse.

DET bekjendtgj6res herved. at
/, i olge Indberetning, modtagon
fra Diet kgl. danske Konsulat
i Ionce. Puerto Rico, er Belei-
ringstilstand erklaret d~erstcds,
og
?, at Meddel~lse er modtagen ON,
at samtlige Fyr paa Puerto Rico
ere slukkede.
Gouyernements Secretariatet, st. Croix.
den 29de April 1898.
LIMPRICHT.
, 1898-05-07
aTHE AVIS
Is puJHsIed Ercry

"Wednesday II Saturday.
Terms Qf Subscription
Republican news item. [volume] (Laport, Pa.) 1896-19??, 1898-01-06

WEDNESDAY. EVENING
The New York Male Quartet provided
the entertainment Of Wednesday evening.
The elocu,ionary and musical parts Of the
program were both Of the first order. Du
shore has surely been fortunate in secur.
ing such an admirable entertainment.
THURSDAY MORNING
Singing.
DR.. Green upon "How to Study an Au
thor" suggests:
/ Havea good knowledge of the life
Of the author.
2. Note the kind Decomposition.
Republican news item. [volume] (Laport, Pa.) 1896-19??, 1898-01-06
Number 81.

8. Seek 10 know the history ofthe ae
lection under consideration.
4. Note the influence of the selection
8. Observe the plan or plot. y
6. Discover and describe main char
'cters figuring
; Z. Comment on its diction
8 Encourage love for the Anglo.Ssx-
on element
Singing.
DR. Benedict followed..with. AN. address
upon "Attention'' in which he claimed
tha' attention was state of the mind not
faculty; that we assist the mind in com.
ing to state OF attention by the muscles
OF the body. Byseveral practical illustra-
tions he. showed that attention was in
part muscular process. He distinguish
I'd also between outward and inward at.
tention, and voluntary, non voluntary and
expectant attention.
Prof. Parker continued his talk OF Tues.
day upon Singing. He espoke Of several
talacies that are accepted by the average
teachers of music, and by practical appli-
cation proved the truth of his assertions.
No talk should be remembered and
profited by more than the one DR.. Green
delivered upon "Guiding Principles in
Teaching Language. After speaking in
unmistakable terms of his disapproval of
early introduction of technical Grammar,
and urging upon us a more careful con-
sideration of that study of language which
gives to the boy and the girl control Of
English in speech, he proceeded with
most eloquent plea for some radical re,
forms along this line.