Omaha daily bee., 1898-12-18
Latest In skirts, Gowns, Sleeves,
ShaVyls aud
HOLIDAY

AANNSs ."
shawIs and Jackets.
NEW YORK, Dec. 15.-It was a novelty
at the beginning Of the winter for those who
wore somber green and brown street gowns
to dash In the necessary high lights by the
use OF brilliant breast knots Of natural flow
ers. Violets used to be the chosen walking
flower, but now a woman, mufied to her
ears in Persian lamb or sable. pins on her
deft breast a fiat boquet as big, nearly, as
q dinner plate, Of purple orchids or scarlet
carnations, backed with a widespread fan OF
maidcnhair fern. A great deal Of attention
is given to the method Of pinning these In
place. A rosette Of ribbon, echoing the
tints in the flowers. is usually SO placed as
to wholly cover the stems.
In tie evening spangles still reign supreme
and golden sequins on a black or white
transparency is the highest achievement OF
the dressmaker's art. But not by the use
of s~pangles alone is one entitled to a front
seat among the well dressed, for the
spangles are only one element in the lavish
or~namentation Of the goods sold for evening
wear. spangles and pearls, ~spangles and
cut crystal beads and ribbon trimming, all
three applied to wide meshed silk net, or
s%pangles wrought in with white
velvet ribbon and gilt braid, are
among the favorite combinations. An
exquisite evening dress destined to be
ultimately worn by Mrs. Astor was of white
satin, over which fell a skirt OF black silk
muslin. At intervals the muslin was cut
out in spaces as large as the palm Of ones
hand, and patterns OF black lace heavily
worked with gold 'spangles and gray pearls
were let in. Another costume for an equally
fashionable woman was Of willow-green
satin garnished with raised flowers, made
all OF ostrich plumage stripped from the
stem and fastened down with embroidery
stitches. The pattern followed was that Of
Virginia climatis, and as the wearer of-this
glorifed raiment moved about the petals, II
one may so call them, OF flowers waved and
vibrated at every step.
1t would require the aid Of a colorist's
brush to convey a genuine notion Of the
splendors Of some Of these modern evening
gowns. and yet they are not all by any
means as costly as they sound. Spangles are
more radiant than expensive, unless one
undertakes to wear the new p~acettes that
are lately over from France. These are Of
all sizes and are .colorcd differently on
their face. Most beautiful! ure those called
amaranthine,a strange greenish-gold on one
side and deeply purple on the other. They
are not attached to the fabric by means Of
holes through the center, but must be so
set on that at every motion they swing
about, showing first one side and then an
other. A black velvet costume resplendent
with a vine motif worked out in amaranthine
spangles is one Of the sights that would
have filled King Solomon with humble
establishment.
A Vice Regal Sleeve.
In a discourse on evening dress It would
be incomplete not to mention the new arm
decorations that 60 by the title Of the vice
regal sleeve. Lady Curzon herself originated
this fashion, which comes to US from India,
where the less sleeve you wear the greater
your physical comfort. " " .
Inside the arm. from the shoulder strap
down, passes to the wrist a band Of jeweled
lace, or painted muslin, or embroidered
satin. 1t Is only two inches and q half wide
and 1t is held to the arms by means Of q
kacing OF pearl strings, or gold cords, or
ribbons that catch in eyelets along either
edge OF the outside Of the arm. This forms
a lattice work, through which the round,
smooth member shows prettily, and at the
back Of the hand the strings of pearls, or
cords, or ribbons knot in a long bunch and
fall over the fingers. "
The evening boa Is not only not obsolete,
but is more in evidence this season than ever
before. Smart women wear them to the
knees, made Of the softest Liberty silk
poppies' petals, falling one thickness over
the other. The center Of the boa is usually
q long roll as big as ones finger. stuffed
with wool and thoroughly impregnated with
souvenir du jardin, q delicate and popular
new perfume.
There are not many things more fashion
able this month than fur toques or tiny
pompadour bonnets with one exalted dazzling
white feather Haunting In front. Mink and
chinchilla and smoked Russian fox are the
bonnets most sought after. while their close
rivals are toques Of antique velvet In auto.
mobile. pervenche and dahlia, with three
brown eagle quilts cooked up In front. By
day women continue to arrange their hair
according to the dictates Of Individual taste
and comfort, While by night the rule seems
to be steadily in favor OF a lofty couture.
Gauze butterflies with spangled wings and
bullion bodies measure sometimes eight
inches from tip to tip Of pinions. and such
queens OF clothesland as Mrs. Stuyvesant
Fish, Mrs. Goelet. etc., carry all their hair
up in a small, tall knot forward Of the
crown. This pushes a light pompadour over
the brow. To the small. tall knot Is fas-
tened a huge bow OF black velvet ribbon that
is not wrinkled, and through the hair the
knot Is passed and crossed by two hong
pronged pins, shaped like hat skewers and
showing most ~fanciful jeweled beads. .,
This Is a head decoration easy to copy, for
the hatpins OF French gilt with beads of
large irregular pearls and paste diamonds
show off to great advantage and small out
lay by night.
Jottings made here and there in the
realms where goodly and various raiment
occupies large time and thought records the
extensive use still made OF black taffeta.
Women continue to wear whole gowns OF 1t
at home. and in the mornings, and instead
Of bands OF black velvet they show the
crisp. dusky surface Of skirt and body
powdered DER with large and small, loose
hanging black silk dots, Let 1t be men
toned in a stage whisper that any woman
who Is ambitious to follow the latest fashion
can buy a box Of these dots or balls very
cheap and herself In one morning tack a
score Of hundreds on to her black taffeta
costume. go
R~eincarnatiOn of Shawls.
There is every indication that before the
next new skirt pattern comes out there
will be no more honored article Of wearing
apparel quoted than the hitherto humble
and inconspicuous shawl For a good dozen Of
lustrums the shawl has hidden It's dimin-
N-l 49, .-l -. H. L. "