The times., 1898-02-27
StrawS Which show Which Way
the Season Goes.
MUFF, AND SUNSHADES
Gorgeous Colors and Blazing Span
giles VIII Distinguish EaSier's
Fashion Mixed Costumes
Sun iu Variation in shirt
Collars and Ties.


Last year the flash of colors was
unique and interesting, but unless all
signs fail. the Easter parade of '9S will, in
color. go far ahead of anything we ever
believed the hitherto rather conserva-
tive American woman could lend herself
TO. Every preliminary millinery open
ing so far has not failed To impress all
observers with the very obvious infiu-
ence of the Audubon Society. The smart
es, tooues and bonnets and picture hats
fiaunt gorgeous bouquets OF ribbon in
place of slassy-eyed little songsters. and
II is undeniable that the ribbon is an
swering lust as well as the birds did for
effective decoration.
The siddiest headpieces from Paris.
sent over as models. fairly bristle with
bows in the making of which there mas
sprung up a small art all 10 itself out
of n dozen imported hats on one stand
seven We're marked for the predominant
ing tones of yellow they exhibited. and
the other five were black and white
Yedda and basket straws prevail over
the lately loved rice and Swiss weaNes,
and nearly every straw has q satin fin-
ish
Perhaps one of the most conspicuous
novelties of which we are destined TO
see a great deal later on is the rice
straw woven with silk and velvet BABY
ribbon and il was only TO be expected
thar plaid straws should make bold
show. They vii undoubtedly be the fea-
ture of the season. and pretty, too for
with smart checked ribbon, bright or
namentS and punches OF gorse or heath
er. they possess a style and cheeruiness
Of color few women can resist.
Next in Importance after the plaid are
Roman striped straws that are being
tentatively offered here, though they DO
say no lack of market for them is found
in Paris There they are TO wear loose
soft straws in sailor shapes, the brim
sage green or gendarme blue and the
crown cerise clear yellow or warm DAN
liza purple A new idea in the arrange
ment of trimmings is to pile everything
possible all on one side, or to encrust the
crown with whatever in the way Of rib
bon or flowers is preferred, and have the
brim quite plain. In adjusting the head
gear a toque, if worn, is set well back
from the face, and this effect is height
ened by the uprolling brim. The small
bonnets are also made to retreat as far
as possible. but any head covering that
boasts the least brim is dragged far over
the eyes.
Small bonnets, Il is good to relate. are
henceforth to be tied on with strings.
Narrow ribbons are in use for this pur-
pose now, and the ribbons tie in quite
a respectable arrangement of loops and
ends just under the chin. Later on the
most becoming little wreaths Of violets,
fat on strips of net are TO be adopted as
chin straps with gauzy theater bonnets.
These last are scarcely more than little
whiffs of white tulle or gauze sprinkled
with black spangles and garnished with
q tuft of roses on one side.
Wreaths of flowers fastened TO the head
by a big back comb are adopted with
theater toilets. and another new style is
q small cone-shaped cap of net entirely
covered with what are called sanguine
red spangles, and having two tiny ostrich
tips curling up from the front like the
delicate antennae of an insect
Spangles do not seem TO lose in the
least their prestige as the season goes
marching on One dressmaker shows how
she is making up expensive Scotch ging-
hams and French linens with spangled
skirts and waists. OF course these are
not to be wash suits, and of course they
are only for women of practically unlim-
tied wardrobe, but the matter is signifi-
cant nevertheless.
The French linens mentioned above are
having a marked influence on the early
shoppers, for this goods is only linen in
part is regarded as of tougher quality
than the best ginghams and is beautiful
ly checked and striped, in every possible
variation of red and blue. The dressmak-
ers say there is a distinct craze for MAX
ing up all these wash goods on the bias.
and embroidery by the thousands of
yards is also consumed for the spring
making of cotton materials.
The muslins and they are nearly all in
bold primary colors, embroidered in black
quite fancifully, demand lace in their
composition, or il is a popular fancy to
edge the coutless ruffies on skirts and
waists with narrow black satin ribbon.
The color lace that leads lust now is
described best as 'age yellow This has
not tinge of the butter gold in it, but
Is the soft mellow tint that comes to heir
looms long laid away in guarded trunks.
Age yellow is also the new and popular
color of the evening silks and satins,
taking the place of cream and ivory
white. This tint has come in with the
new straight watered line called ''moire
imperial Justice demands an enthusi-
astic recommendation OF the bordered
foulards which are just out. and of the
soft. light lovely taffeta chinois. With
its new-found border, the foulard costume
needs no other trimming. and for cool
and beautiful summer shirt waists, the
taffeta chinois is sure TO take the palm.
A bit of attractive frIvolity that has
caught the feminie fancy is The big
chiffon muff. 1t is black, or any rich.
dark color yo6 please. has ample fiounc-
es on either end. and the chiffon is pains
takingly shirred onto a foundation and
lining of rich bright satin. Sometimes a
knot Of violets. or pansies, or primroses
Is fastened on the outside. and within the
muff is perfumed like a saehet This
ephemeral bit of prettiness was widely
used as pre-Lenten weddings, and is like
ly to figure at those following Easter
week
Along with these 1t as well to speak of
what ws may expect in the way OF sun
shades. The early arrivals are us fluffy
and downy as newly-fiedged chickens.
having garlands of ruffies festooning
them within and without. The ruffles are
as often as not of crimped liberty silk,
scallOped to resemble rose petals and art
fully tinted along the edges.
Silk and gauZe sunshades are not only
pierced with appliques of black lace but
are most eXquisitely painted in wreaths
of flowers or groups of fat cupids, or
most lovely indeed. on one sky-blue dome.
was a long fight of white-breasted black
coated swallows. They We're painted
large about the bottom of the blue dome
growing smaller and smaller until they
were only specks up near the ferrule.
Here and there white clouds We're paint
ed i'm, and the whole spread of silk was
on long malacca stick.
Much emphasis is of course laid upon
the stick. and in a batch of expensive
parasols such novelties have been noted
as gold eRameled handle having a tiny
watch surrounded by brilliants set in the
very end. Another gold and crystal han
die for three inches up is hollow and
the spring off flies the gold cap
and the empty space is filled with SMELL
ing salts. Still a third has slit in its
ivory shaft into which slips small gold
rimmed lorgnon, fastened TO the handles
md by a gold hinge. The price OF these
S commensurate with their beautiful ma