Bellows Falls times. [volume] (Bellows Falls, Vt.) 1856-1965, 1898-09-14
TOLEDO'S FINE CATHEDRAL

An Americans Visit to spaIn's Famous
Structure.
To the right, beyond and beneath
us, rises the great basilica, the Chris
tian shrine built upon the foundations
of many strange temple, and upon
corner stones that were consecrated
to long-forgotten creeds. It rises out
of the low-lying swamp land, and rears
its lofty spire far above the citadel
that crowns the rock-bound height.
But 1t is incomplete>and far from per-
feet After all the centuries that have
passed over it and all the generations
of men who have in their little day
labored upon 1t we must accept 1t as
a true picture of human aspiration
and endeavor, always striving and
struggling and never attaining. The
first cathedral church of ST. Mary
erected here of which record has reacn-
ed us was consecrated toward the close
of the sixth century, but even the care
less and superficial excavations which
have. been made beneath the cathe-
dral in recent years disclose the fact
that here there was a place of prayer
long before the Christian era dawned.
The present edifice was completed in
the year of the discovery of America.
The first view of the bold outlines Of
the mighty pile is unfortunately i'm
paired and interrupted by the sur
rounding buildings. But if we patch
together laboriously the partial views
and glimpses we obtain we shall see
that, unlike any other Spanish shrine,
the Toledo cathedral equals if it does
not surpass, in majesty of construc-
ton and impressiveness the greatest
cathedral churches of France.
About the high altar are grouped
according to dynasties, the alabaster
tombs Of the old kings and the new
kings and the heads Of puissant houses
Of which we have never heard, and
mighty warriors whose deeds have
escaped the recognition Of his
tory. Here they sleep in the courts
of peace which once rang with the
clatter of their trailing swords. Here
they came with their great banners.
here our lady blessed them with the
blessing of her smile, and here they
brought back upon their shields those
who fell doing her bidding. to sleep
forever near her shrine and within
the sweep of her plying eyes. The
cathedral is at once the Valhalla and
the Westminster of Spain. Here all
her glories are recorded and here each
generation as 1t passed from the stage
stored its noblest dead.
I remember with mixed feelings the
two days I spent here, escorted by
the seven canons, each with his chain
OF changing keys, who opened to me
the most secret treasures OF the
ehrines. This favor I owe to the
courteous consideration Of the cardi-
nal. But remember with still great
er pleasure the days that followed,
when, safe from the courtesy of my
cicerone, In the disguise of capa and
straw sandals, wandered, undis-
turbed, and unenlightened, through the
sacred precincts. One evening as
sat and listened to the vespeY song an
open door h stone pier which I had
never seen before caught my eye. I
entered, and, ascending a spiral stair
way Of stone, across which the cob
webs We're drawn as thick and strong
as cords, came out Of the darkness at
last into the light of q little chapel.
all amber and alsbaster. I touched
with reverence the hem of the vestment
worn by the image which stood over
the deserted altar, and on the moment
It crumbled In my hand like October
leaves. never knew to what saint
the chapel was dedicated or why the
cult had been withdrawn, and, though
sought Il often, never found my
FAY again 10 this forgotten chapel !