The times., 1898-10-02
Each Autumn Novelty Lures
Money From Ones Purse.
A TIMELY STUDY IN FURS
Russian Braids and Lace VIII EIab-
orate Wool Gowns-Coats Have
Cutanay Taiis-The Flying Lasso
Is New Effect i'm Hair Building.
Electric Lights Also Worn.

windows, Tuu OF tempting novelties that
truly make money feel heavy in ones
pocket. OF course the display that at
tracts most attention stiH continues to
be that of wooden goods, braids and
trimmings. and next after this the public
interest turns with great nveliness to the
study of furs. Every week the braids de-
velop new phases. and the last outgrowth
is a rough-surfaced black silk passemen-
terie with jet and steel beads cut very
fine. and worked into the edge or center
OF the trimming in a bright little pattern.
There are also scores Of varieties of ap-
pliques that no dress-loving woman could
pass over in silence Many Of the APP
pliques are cut from what is called suede
cloth in oak and vine leaf pattern. As
this cloth is quite thick, its edge is bev-
eled. and then all the ramiacations of the
leaf-yeins are outlined in stitching or in
fine bright beading.
sun another and most popular orna-
mentation FOR the new gowns is heavy
black, cream, or ecru Russian lace. in
simple pattern, and worked up with
sparkling beads.
reason that on them and on narrow
bands OF fur we are going to depend
wholly for the garnishment OF winter
dresses. Fur and passemeHterie will Ia
bor side by side at the noble mission OF
decoration. and if any woman thinks this
arrangement sounds sOmber it Is simply
because she has not seen any OF the very
lovely new gowns
A fresh
from the workwomen's hands. will have
pointed panels OF ecru lace applique on
the hips, extending nearly 10 the knees.
Bright sapphire blue facet beads sparkle
in the lace mesh and appear in the yoke
Of lace on the waist and on the sleeve
caps To further tone up this cheerful
costume narrow bands Of chinchilla fur
border the panels, yoke, cross the sleeve
tops. and edge the high collar. On
blue velvet toque, embroidered in small
steel marguerites a couple of gray feath-
ers stand up and the effect of the toilet
is that Of perfect harmony with our crisp
and brilliant fall weather. But IL Is sale
TO let Il pass into an axiom that without
some fur trimming no gown this autumn
can boast fellowship with fashion.
There Is great good sense in this resolu-
tion of the dressmakers and tailors, for
every year furs grow more and more
expensive in the United States; that Is
TO say. the beautiful richly colored skins,
only the very wealthy women can afford
wraps of seal mink and sable. BY touch
ing up the gowns and wraps with fur
bands an excellent make-shift Is the re-
suit and old furs are brought into serv-
ice again
Quite as potent as this reason is the
restless notion our makers of good
clothes have that We American women
dress too soberly in cold weather. BY
putting beads into braid and touching up
the picture with fur and by advocating
warm. bright tones in cloth we are
bound 10 be birds OF very lovely plumaSe
for the next six or eight months to come.
Fur coats and coats trimmed with fur
ale just putting forth in the last ten
davs and ii is plainly evident that much
gold and beaded saloon is used to set
of the dark skins. Every woman who
could afford il had a Persian lamb coat
last winter At this moment these coats
are at the furriers, in active process Of
reincarnation. according TO the new mode.
That is they are being shaped in 10 the
waist. instead Of blousing; they are hav-
ing fat cutaway tails set on, and all the
blemished parts furnished up with a ju-
dicious decoration Of galoon. BY the way
this is most distinctly not jeweled galoon.
II is a flexible bullion braid woven in
harmonious silk colors with the gold, and
1t CLEANS out very charmingly from the
soft deep pile of fur
A vast number of fur coats are being
opened down the front TO show rather
gorgeous vests of velvet, over which
hang jabots Of cream lace, and the wo-
man who wishes TO secure an effect of
vast elegance at a moderate output OF
funds cannot do better than examine
with view to purchase, an Astrakan
coat with Persian lamb revers and col
lar To all of these wraps, without any
exception. medici collars are attached,
and for variety's sake We see a great
many cloth coats having narrow bands of
fur worked in amid the yoke-shaped
braid patterns that serve as ornamental
ton.
There is only one sensation in fur goods
this year. and that is white broad tail.
Last year d few wraps from Paris show
ed us how effective seal brown, gray
and fox-red broad-tail could be, while
this season the acme of splendor, in the
way Of an evening wrap, is a shawl
shaped cape of Tyrian purple velvet,
lined with white broad-tail, and boasting
4 collar Of the same, edged with white
ostrich feathers. The price of such a
garment would easily ransom the aver
age prince, for only occasionally are the
snow-white fieeces.
South America which supplies our
beautiful chinchilla and. some years
ago. the monkey skin. is Offering a
novelty in the shape of dressed alpaca,
or the domesticated llama fur. Sam
ples of this handsome. rather coarse
hair. dyed a bright black. are on the
fur market in the shape of muffs and
collarettes. and the furriers say there
l. i i've
and not a bit expensive.
Fur coats and capes are lined in
white satin, so far. The satin is bro
caded at intervals in bright pink rose
buds. or. more smartly still. in close
set black dots. Terra Gotta satin is an
other approved shade for coat Innings,
TO which. by the way. women give a
curious amount Of attention. Many OF
the imported models show Innings of
mother-Of-pearl gray peau de sole, with
a small scarlet or green figure broched
in the silk. This IS truly a more taste
full and genuinely serviceable lining than
anything in satin, and ii adds greatly te
warmth.
1t is a sad state of affairs when the
daughters of Great Britain bequeath US
a fashion in head-dressing for, with the
handsomest heads of hair in the world.
they delight in coiffures that are beyond
the pale OF art and nature. Despite this
fact the American woman is, with her
street dresses. wearing her hair drop
ped low on her neck, and usually in two
or three rolls. This is very clumsy and
very English, and the wonder is how the
small toques are going to accept the ar
rangement To perfect this particular
coiffure the hair must be rolled back
above the ears. and the curve over the
crown OF the head made as smooth as a
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