The times., 1898-09-11

only steal bits of ii for vestlets, collars,
etc, on their fine gowns.
Another acquisition by the married
women is the right to conceal the raw
ages of time by wearing their dog col
lar necklaces about throat band of vel
vet, that has high extension pieces run
ming in points out under the chin and
ears and high at the back. AT some of
the jewelers. in New York they show
these collars of velvet and satin studded
with gems, or of an evening you can
see pretty woman, turned of forty-fiye,
wearing a bit of precious old white lace
drawn rather close about her neck and
caught with a fine jewel under one ear.
Every day shows growth in the fan
ciful waist that is called a theater or
hotel waist. Nowadays so many wom-
en- live in hotels during the winter, or
go frequently to the excellent hotel
restaurants with their husbands, that
without a rather complete set of fancy
waists the wardrobe is sadly lacking
Last winter very much tucked silk and
satin shirt waists appeared freely at
all these semi-functions, but they have
been swept out of existence, and greater
formality and elaboration is sanctioned.
A few very pretty waists are made fiat
about the neck, but the majority rise
sternly tight and close at the throat
though elbow sleeves are considered in
extremely fine taste. Most attractive
specimens are made wholly of white or
black lace, and sometimes the seams
down the shoulders and outside of the
sleeves are outlined in small bright imi-
tation stones.
Lace waists, and those of chiffon and
plain silk, boast invariably pretty bow
knots of velvet or of lace, with centers
of jewels, fastened at some conspicu-
Gus point on the bust or shoulder Such
bow knots as these are sold among the
smart odds and ends of dress in all the
shops, and are made up in variety of
colors and materials. They are meant
for pinning on wherever on skirt, waist.
or hair, a touch of color is needed Vel
vet ones are twisted to resemble the
sword knots soldiers used to wear,
while others look like wedding fayors.
or simply bows and falling ends of
lace clasped by jewel. With many
women such bows take the place most
acceptably of jewels, and aid greatly
in helping much-worn gown to escape
the charge of dullness or monotony
Pretty autumn hosiery is startiingly
brilliant, whether the material is silk Isle
or wool. New golf stockings are made of
camePs hair yarn, showing in sharp con-
trast the three highest tones of green.
red and brown, and the fine lisle, for dali
ly use, is Haunted before us in black shot
with scarlet. There is a new way of
marking stockings in lines and a very
bewildering effect is given by sober
dark blue silk hose having dozen or
more thread-like lines of yellow turning
round the leg like the twist of a cork
screw. She who has a thick ankle and
thin calf will take kindly to the blue
and black stockings, striped finely in
white, the pin line convergIng from the
length of leg very close together at the
ankle. BY this maneuver the eye is de-
ceived, and great comfort given the wear
er By yet another device rows of white
dots begin. the size of a quarter of a dol
lar, up near the knee, growing to the di-
mensions of a pins head at the ankle.
On experiment it has been found that
large foot and thick ankle lose. to
the most critical gaze, one-half their
clumsiness when swathed in figured
stocking and as but minority of women
enjoy faultless extremities, the plain
dark hose are at discount momentarily,
for these dazzling deceiving foot masks
carry the trade before them.
From three points of view the theater or
hotel waist can be studied this week for
the sketch gives group of the most ad-
vanced of the new styles in composing
these admirable little bodies. Though so
snowy, they are simple enough, for one
is made of accordion-pleated chiffon, with
suitana Jacket of thick gray Russian
lace drawn over it. BY series of bright
scarlet satin bows the jacket is fastened
at the side. OF chiffon the high collar is
made and tied in the rear in a bow SO
large and airy that 1t forms sort of
delicate background for the face A fell
low illustration shows turquoise chiffon,
over which fits an oddly shaped waist of
sapphire blue velvet, edged with an an