davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

when left school year ago." she went on. "I just thought I would go crazy with the home folks always saving, said looked about as frisky as Grandma Burke, who is nearly a hundred. 1 tried physical culture and rode horseback and played tennis-did everything, in fact. ,, shoulders, even to wearing three different patent braces, but l could not see the least improvement"
 Did the braces do any good? l nearo her npanion ask T am just trying a pair myself"
 She was a slender little thing and not as fresh looking as the tall, girl.
 .'and what's more, they hurt me dread fully. I had the backache all the time wore them, and they pinched my arms, too. But I want to tell you what my doctor said. I went to him one day and I just sat down in his great big chair and cried like a baby. 1 looked fright and knew it, but I felt sure that they would put me into a plaster cast or something equally as awful. He didn't, though, but just asked the queerest lot of questions about how I slept
 How you slept?, exclaimed the slender girl, showing a great deal Of interest.
 Yes, he wanted to know ii 1 slept on a downy bed and with a big pillow under my head. Of course I did and when l he knew it.
 Then he went on to say that I would lie with my arms up over my head or else, when on my side, they would be in front of me, with the shoulders thrown forward, that I often wsuld curve my self up in a little roll and go to sleep. These were the common mistakes, he said, which most persons made in sleep ing
 Well, how on earth are we to sleep and on what sort of beds?" her com panion asked, with very wide-open eyes. better. He said to lie on my left side and put my arm behind me, which natur- ally would throw the shoulders back. did 1t, and just see how straight l am!" she added, standing up and showing her superb neck and shoulders.
 .It wasn't so very hard, either" she continued, "but I was determined to master the art of sleeping correctly, and I have. You know Jessie Banks, don't you? Well, the secret of her fine figure is that she has for years slept without pillow and on hard mattress scarcely three feet wide. She used to stoop over frightfully and her muscles were so solid, and lying with the head on the same plane with the body keeps the chest well thrown out and the shoulders straight She looks lovely now in even- ing dress There is so much expression in a pretty back and well-carried chest chat. but it gave me so great a curiosity to learn more about the theory that I made straight for the office of a physician whose opinion comes very near being the law In this country to-day
 'It is quite true" he said. ''half the world is in total ignorance of the laws governing healthful sleep. People lie on beds that are soft and pile so many GOV CTS over them that the body gains no ven-
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

tilation whatever. High pillows throw the head forward and interfere with healthful breathing, while all sorts of positions are taken with regard only to getting easy.
 "A hard bed makes the flesh firm. have known patients to apparently reduce their weight twenty or thirty pounds after sleeping so for several months, but on be- ing weighed they would find that no f1esh had been lost; it had simply hardened and lost it's fiabbiness.
 Sleeping on the back is not healthful. It results in a grayitation of blood to the spinal cord and the lower part of the brain. Persons who dream much and have the nightmare usually sleep tnls way and, besides, 1t throws the palate back in such position as to cause mouth breathing and it's accompanying snore. A deal of throat trouble is caused by this, as the air reaches the lungs without being purified and moistened by passing through the nose.
 living on the let side, with the arm thrown behind, is the best position both for giving fine figure and in promoting health. All animals sleep upon the chest as nearly as possible, with the back up, and they know pretty well what is the light thing to do. It will be found that In taking the position I have just advised the throwing of the arm behind one brings the body nearly over the chest.
 "As for sleeping on high pillows" the doctor continued 'it is the easiest thing in the world to grow dependent upon them, as they favor cerebral anaemia, which induces sleep, but if one wishes to have a finely expanded chest she must dispense with even the smallest pillow.
 "A soft bed Is enervating; it embraces the body and makes it's tissues fiabby, which. together with heavy covering, in- terferes with the circulation and prevents the body from throwing off impurities: One should have the air temperate and the room so ventilated as to dispense with any but light covering.
 .sIt is not generally known. but to sleep on the back makes one very liable to take cold which is easily understood, as the chest and throat are exposed, and I have found the majority of persons with weak lungs and sensitive throats to be addicted to this position in sleeping
 ..Well. doctor,'' I questioned, docs the sleeping on hard beds without a pillow tend to give women fine fgures?"
 1T have never considered 1t from the noint of beauty" he answered, with great dignity. "but it must certainly do so. as if is the healthful way, and that always means the most beautiful. have noticed that the women of hot climates have me fignres and I do not doubt that the sieening on hard beds for coolness sake has much to do with it. had patient not long ago who was greatly worried over having a double chin. learned that she was accustomed to sleeping on a soft bed and with high pillow. 1 persuaded her to abandon them for hard. narrow mattress, and without further trouble her flesh was satisfactorily reduced"
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12
} 0o00oooo0o 100000 0 co 600 0000o 000000ooo
 , HINTS FOR THE CARE OF THE HglR
By MDe. Hygelo.
0000000000000000 0000000000000000

Fair tresses mans imperial race ensnare,
 And beauty draws us with single hair"
 St. Paul wrote: 'If a woman have long hair, 1t is glory to her. Since when there has been much rhythmic talk about hair being woman's crown of glory. Nor is 1t empty talk, for pretty silken tresses, well cared for and with natural wave, can excite more real envy in the feminine heart than diamond rings or brass but tons. And there is nothing about a woman's toilet that gives her that neat and well-groomed appearance that we all so covet as well-kept, neatly arranged locks.
 After all, 1t requires but little care to make the scanty locks grow thick and glossy. It is not the hard brushing once in a while and the occasional shampoo that will keep the hair in good order, but 1t Is the continuous care and attention. The scalp, like the rest of the body, must be kept scrupulously clean.
 It should be thoroughly shampooed once month, unless very oily, in which case twice a month is not too often. Use pure Castle soap and make good stiff father.
 Don't rub the soap on the hair, for this makes it sticky and hard to rinse out.
 Don't use ammonia on the hair
 If the water is not soft, a pinch of borax will soften 1t.
 Rinse thoroughly in hot water several llIileS, dilO let the ldSl De III COlQ water. This causes a reaction and stim- ulates the scalp.
 Dry in the sunlight if possible.
 For some heads afflicted with dandruff soap is not good. In such cases use the shampoo:
 Yelk of one egg.
 One pint of rain water
 One ounce of rosemary spirit
 Beat until the ingredients are thorough Iy mixed and use it warm, rubbing 1t well into the scalp. This is splendid, not only as a cure for dandruff, but is also cleansz ing and makes the hair soft and smooth.
 For hair that is too oily use the follow ing:
 OIeum rusci, OF. ss.. equal 15.
 Ungt aQuae roSae ad oZ. W, equal 1OO
 Ol rosae st. to xxx, equal l.
 Apply to the scalp at night and rub away with a piece of soft linen in the morning Continue until difficulty is re- moved.
 Keep cheerful and happy and look to the health if you would have beautiful and lI1xuriant hair Disorders of the circula- ton and of the nervous system, as well as anxiety and worry, cause the hair to fall.
 Trim the ends of the hair once 8. month There is an old superstition that the moon influences the growth of the hair-that, II cut when the moon is young, 1t grows with the increase and lengthenS without thickening; if cut when the moon Is on the wane, the growth in length ceases but the hair increases in thickness.
 The following lotion will assist the
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

for the use of the reception rooms at all hours and for the 5 o'clock teas. It has proved most delightful way of bring ing the students of the different arts together, and the managers gladly meet any deficits that may occur in the accounts. Hymns and Lemonade" is a newer innovation than the American Girls Home, and when it was first preached to the students it was viewed with distrust. They scented that the promoters of the idea were trying to reform them, and they were unani- nous in the opinion that they liked themselves as they were.
 But the originators of the idea-some wealthy New Yorkers-went right ahead, undismayed by any lac5z of en- thusiasm on the part of those they hoped to benefit by the plan A stu dio capable of holding about fifty peo- pie was rented, and it was announced that non-sectarian services would be conducted there every Sunday evening for the benefit of the American stu dents.
 There were very few present the first evening. But the excellence and brev- ity of the informal sermon, the singing of the vocal students who had volun- teered their services, the absence of passing around the plate, and the de- licious lemonade and cake served at the close or the SerVlceS, all cOmDlned to make good impression on the few students present.
 One of those happened to be wag, fortunately for the permanence of the institution, and in a felicitous moment he dubbed the services Hymns and Lemonade under which happy sobri- quet it was bound to thrive. For 1t is far easier and more alluring to pro- pose to take a fellow student to Hymns and Lemonade" than to church.
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

that she is no longer afraid of the water. | It gives one courage, you see, and is a | very safe introduction to briny depths.
 Next she is put into a belt fashioned of l cork, cut into fiat four-inch squares Into | the water she plunges and proceeds to
 learn how to balance herself. and incl dentally to swim without the staying hand | of the trolley. As she gains in self-con- | fdence the squares of cork are removed | one by one from the belt about her waist,
 until by and by she finds she has mas | tered the natatory art, and that quite scientifically, too.
 When a girl has learned to swim well the feat of diving, Is next in line. This
 usually Is from the spectators gallery, l twenty-ive feet above the water The in- | structor first takes the correct position
 and dives over and then the pupil does
 likewise.
 1 the course excitement runs high. Some | thing of goodly proportions which will slowly sink is thrown into the water and | pace The art lies in knowing just how to support a dead weight and swim telingly
 at the same time. It Is easy to see that the pupil who completes the course of in struction as here illustrated is admirably equipped for old oceans pillows, though | I have neglected to speak of the electric wheel so placed in the side of the tank as to perfectly initiate surf motion AS exercise for developing the lung DOW CT and giving strength to chest and shoul- der muscles the motions employed in swimming are the finest. I am told by an expert that ocean bathing is good for every man, woman and child over years
 of age-but that 1t is also not good for any of them unless indulged in intelligent ly.
 There should be no dallying on the sand either before the plunge or following it.
 nor should a moment be spent in the water when not In active motion Robust persons may remain submerged for twen- ty-five minutes at the longest, while deli cate ones should not extend the time over eight minutes.
 As a guarantee against taking cold a shower bath should be arranged in the bathhouse and turned on sufficient to drench the skin, both before taking the plunge and on the return from the surf
 A good rule for both weak and strong to follow is always to come out of the water before the delightful feeling of ex- hilaration has passed off for otherwise there is sure to result a languor and de- bility which sometimes lasts for day or two.
 Salt water is not good for the hair, In spite of the fact that physicians often order salt shampoos for the scalp.
 The wise bather will not allow her tresses to become drenched more than couple of times during the season and then a good fresh water rinse should fol- low
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

growth and nourish the roots of the hair: Castor oil, one part; oil of sweet almonds, | one part; tannfn, one part Never use 1 fine comb. Never use curling irons. | Here is recipe for curling fluid: Cum Tragacanth, 11s drachms; proof spirit, 3
 ounees;- water, ounces, altar of rose, 10
 Give the hair a thorough brushing
 every night. This removes dandruff, frees
 ing the day, promotes circulation and
 keeps the hair soft and glossy. | word here about hairbrushes. Don't buy a black brush for 1t is tm-
 possible to tell when it is dirty, and un-
 less the brush is perfectly clean 1t will not
 cleanse the head.
 have bristles not more than half an inch
 deep, unbleached and stiff enough to
 scratch but not(irritate the scalp. After very few strokes the loose hairs should
 be combed from the brush and the loose | Scurf and dust removed by rubbing and beating it on a towel.
 The brush should be washed as often as
 1t needs 1t. The best way to do this is to
 wash 1t in hot soap and water, to which little soda or ammonia has been added, | after which 1t should be rinsed in clear | water, rubbed on towel, and put in an open window, but not In the sunlight, to l dry.
 | A final rinsing in a little weak alum | water will increase the stiffness of the | bristles
 l Combs should never be washed. but | cleaned with a stout thread twisted about the ringers ana run In and out between the teeth
 There is nothing better for the hair
 than sun bath. Loosen the hair as often
 as possible and sit in the sunlight. But it takes more even than a fine com-
 plexion and beautiful hair to make a woman beautiful. She must look to her hands and nails, that they be soft and white and polished, her teeth must be looked after, the body properly exer-
 ciseu and she must carry herself grace fully and walk with her shoulders drawn back and head we'll poised, chest out and
 chin in at the same time easily and with
 out effort
 Above all no matter how badly the world may be treating you, keep the ex- pression of the face cheerful and animat- ed. As the photographer says, Took pleasant" Really, this is more than half the battle.
 And now, if there are any of you that would like to ask any questions concern
 ing cosmetics or hygiene, I shall be only too happy to answer them. If there are any red noses that the owners would like to make short work of any unsightly
 spots or other facial blemishes, write to
 me and I will tell you what to do for them. Ask as many questions as you like,
 sign any name that you choose, and di-
 rect your letters to Mime. Hygeia, The
 Call, San Francisco.
 I will give you only such recipes as I
 have either personally tested or know in
 some way to be harmless.
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

This solicitude for the welfare of our students in Paris has occasioned some delightful institutions where the Ameri- cans, be they from the North, East, South or West, meet and in rubbing elbows forget their tinge of "heim- weh.''
 The two most popular of these home links" are the American Girls Home" and Hymns and Lemonade.
 The American Girls Home was founded some years ago by a number of wealthy New Workers. Mrs. White law Reid takes an active interest in the Home" and Is one of it's most ardent supporters.
 The Home" is situated in a part of the quarter most accessible to the studios. There are about seventy five large, comfortably furnished rooms, which are rented only to the American students. Meals are served in the "Home,' but one can room in the Home and board elsewhere if it is found more desirable. The charges are very moderate. The inmates of the Home" are absolutely free and inde- pendent as to their comings and goings After trying pensions" and house keeping apartments" most of the stu dents finally move to the American Girls Home and to haven of rest.
 Four large rooms on the lower floor of the Home are open to all Ameri- can students and their friends. There are three large reception rooms and a library where the American papers and magazines are kept on file. The girls drop in here at all hours to chat, read, to keep appointments. A great many of the girls who live in apartments not convenient for receiving people enter tain all their visitors at the parlors of the Home
 Every day at 5 o'clock tea and crack CTS are served in the salon" of the
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

waterproofed cloth, low wading shoes with rubber disks on the soles are worn. These are less clumsy for women than Wading boots, which are of rubber with the wading stockings attached to them
 Apropos of the matter of securely rais- ing the skirts for wading. the outfitter first mentioned does not believe in an intricate or complicated arrangement of buttons, rings and strings; and the hint he, gave to his swell customers might be of use to women who do not fish or hunt, but who are compelled to sometimes raise their skirts-unless they are Rainy Daisies. His plan is very simple-just broad heavy band of rubber slipped over the head and allowed to rest about the waist until needed; 1t is then pushed down about the hips, the skirt pulled up through it as high as desired, and there toward the waist, when on dry territory again, and the skirt falls instantly into place.
 The man of rods and guns laughed when for the use of sportswomen. Why cer- tainly but of course the only difference is in the outward appearances. We simply ornament them in some way, just out or compliment to the fair sex, you know But she really fishes with the same rod as we sell her brothers-a five-ounce steel rod being about the proper thing for her to use, or, if she chooses, a corresponding ly light bamboo rod have seen rods made of gold and silver and others orna- mented with silver fret work and etching TOT presentation 10 ladies. Just think of it-fshing with rods of silver and goid We have all heard of that kind of bait, but whoever dreamed of such royal ap- pliances for landing even patrician trout or perchance plebeian chub.
 Concerning guns,'' continued the rod and gun man, "the number of women in terested in shooting has had marked effect on the output. Rifles and revolvers, While of the orthodox pattern for men, are, for womens use, quite decorative in many eXamples-a deferential tribute to Diana's ineradicable desire for attractive eXternalities
 Tn the assortment of breech-loading shotgunS are many beautiful weapons for Women's exclusive use. Many such were seen at the recent sportsmens exposition But though beautified with inlaid work, gold and silver ornamentation and artistic engraving, these weapons are not toys They shoot to kill and do so as well as the best of the guns made for the men, From live to six pounds would be the best Weight for Diana's use, and a hammer less, eJector gun from sixteen to twenty gauge, with the proper load of smokeless powder, will cover her with glory if she is good shot"
 On the paraphernalia of execution. how ever, the costume outfitter does not dic- tate He attires her suitably, makes her AttractlYe to the eye and leaves to her the, choice of her game and the means or bringing it to her feet
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12
The Up-to=Date Swimming Girl.

G7T9HE up-to-date summer girl is taught to swim scientifically, no matter if she does choose to pose as a gentle creature half afraid of the water Down deep in her heart she's not bit
 afraid, and ten to one she would dash boldly to the rescue of an imperiled swimmer with a coolness and skill that
 would do credit to a member of the life saving corps, for the rescue act is an im- portant feature of her natatory curricu-
 lum.
 To really become a mistress of the art
 of swimming a girl must take a series of lessons at private institution where
 she Is made to understand the full sig
 nificance of the details of every move
 ment and position. This done, the result is splendid self-confidence ana a cool head under every circumstance
 The methods employed at the late la mented natatorium on upper Fifth ave-
 nue, New York, were novel, and as one fair pupil expressed it, perfectly jolly" Beginners were first given instructions in movements on land that is, they were made to stand up with heels placed close together and then taught to use their
 arms Later they were shown the mo- tion of using one leg and arm together l After sufficient skill had been acquired in these matters they were taken to the 1 tank and a belt placed around the waist, into which was snapped the hook from a | suspended trolley. This was constructed
 of two pulleys; which ran on an auto
 matic track above the tank-that is it 1 would run when correct motions were
 made by the fair novice. but if the arms | and neither limbs failed to work in har-
 mony not an inch would the trolley budge. i On occasions such as these the in- | structor would stand upon the edge of l the tank indulging in the most convinc-
 ing form of gymnastics and below forth i; Move the arms out so. as l told youi ! Don't try to stand on your foot!' and | the like, until, when apparently nearly ready to pitch himself overheard and
 end 1t all forever, the cable would yield
 a bit to the beseeching efforts of the l splashing nymph and slowly, spasmodic- 1 ally move on toward the opposite side of 1 the tank
 i This degree in the initiation Is kept up l for series of turns until the pupil feels
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12

n girl students in Paris employ their Sundays.
 Home" Almost all the American stu dents in Paris are to be found there at that hour-the artists, musicians, stu dents at the universities and acade- mics. They all find it a pleasant way of meeting each other, and 1t saves making calls, forrnality which finds very little place in their busy lives.
 The conversation is always animated and informal. The chances of being hung" or in other words, having a pie ture accepted at the salon. is a never failing theme for discussion. Discuss music, art, the latest play, indulge in a little small talk, wash it down with good tea and crackers and then ''au reVoir' till the next day at the same hour. No fee whatsoever is charged even to those not living in the Home"
The San Francisco call., 1898-06-12
How to Sleep Correctly.

a CS Y doctor says that 1t isn't what UNNM we do during the day but we / M N way we sleep at night that makes So Dus round-shouldered," I heard a tall, stunning-looking girl say to her com panion as they rested after the dumb bell drill at the gymnasium.
 You know how dreadfully stopped