New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-10-02

rant Is a conspicuous object in the centre. The
port is filled with fishing craft and back OF 1t
there meadow lands. with black and white
Holstein cattle grazing; and canal with one
or two barges in motion leads through the grassy
levels toward a farmhouse shaded by ems and
surrounded by hayStackS. Still further back
there is huge weather-beaten windmill Inc
skipper and his mate shake hands warmly with
their two passengers as though there Is need Oh
sympathy in being landed at port so inferior
to Marken. There is little need of compassion
for VOlendam is one Of the most picturesque
spots in Holland. with a lovely setting Of color
and with an air of simplicity and absorption in
its own affairs which the island lacks.
The fshermen's families here not exhi-
bition for the benefit of excursion parties They
are leading their plain. everyday toisome
lives. and not posing for strangers snap
shots. The. doors are open, and there are
glimpses of small rooms. with pockets in the
side walls where the occupants are tucked
away under blankets at night. There Is little
furniture and all the family possessions are
hung upon the walls. on the dcorsteps the
women securing frying pans or plying their
knitting needles and the children are playing
about the bitches. Behind the waterfront, with
its struggling line Of cottages. there is laby-
rinth of narrow passages. with houses cluttered
together a lower level. Pgstes are found at
every turn; fish smells in the air. and there
are bitches and slums. Volendam does not affect
to be anything but plain. od-fashioned fishing
village. If artists choose to spend the summer
there they are welcomed. but close inspection
from strangers is not invited
The Voendam women have a costume Of their
own. which is not unlike that Of the islanders.
Their white caps have flaps which fall over the
ears and the bodces. whether plain or embro:d-
cred are covered with white handkerchiefs
The skirts are either black or brown. and over
them are worn long blue or red aprons. The
men wear baggy trousers and close-tittn jack
cts like those seen at Marker There are fine
contrasts Of color in the costumes. and the faces
are strongly marked and the figures sinewy. 1t
is not strange that artists linger week after week
in this quaint village for il is full Of local color
and simple naturalism. This port with its fish
ing fleet. the canal with its barges. the houses
With their quaint interiors. the blind alleys with
their fantastic effects Of light and shade, and
the meadows with their haycocks and farm
houses offer a great variety Of subjects for
Characteristic sketches. The colors are soft and
harmonious. and the effects of light and at
mOSphere are always strong and clear III Is an
IDEAL place for a school Of realism.
The nearest is Edam. less than two miles
away. 1t is a fine walk. with characteristic
Dutch scenes at every turn. Grotesque passen-
ger barges are in the canal. with a towiine
around the waist of a boy on the path and a
man helping with a pole TO increase the momen-
tum Peasants with Mapping trousers and
bright -colored shirts are working in the fields.
Women with wooden Jokes. from which pals or
milk are suspended. pass slowly by. Every one
on the road wears wooden shoes and seems to
have stepped out of the frames Of Jacob Van
Ruysdael or Peter de HoOck. AS Edam is APP
preached the costumes change. and the visitor
re-enters everyday Holland. with its conven-
tionai unpicturesque dress. Although the town
itself has a beautiful medieval church and
many old fashioned gabled houses. it has lost its
Old World air of distinction With its shaded
avenues. its hourishng trade. its signs Of wealth
and prosperity. and its steam tram line to Am
sterdam il belongs TO the new order Of progress
whereas humble Olendam is a survival Of prim
tive simplicity.
Voendam, like other Dutch villages and
towns has joined in the celebration Of Queen