Evening star., 1898-03-12
GENEROSITY OF TEE LOWER CLASSES
Wondrous Treasures of Art in the
Gallery at Madrid.
A SIDE TRIP TO TANGIER
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

there is nothing to do but write letters
l want to say most emphatically for the
benefit Of any one intending to visit Spain
that the unpleasantness over Cuba and ex-
pected annoyance therefrom can be left ut
terly out of ones calculations. We were
four women travelling alone and were urged
almost tearfully by every one on the steam
er not to go into Spain at the present time
We, however, braved the lion In his den
and went, strong in our faith in Spanish
gallantry
1t was early for tourists, and we were
thrown entirely in the society of Spaniards.
Moreover, we Travelled second and even
tnlrd-claSs, so that we met men and women
OF all types. We were recognized every
Where as Americans, were spoken of and to
always as Las SenOraS AmeficanaS. We
conversed freely with every one We met
we even discussed the war and talked of
the past and future of Spain and the pros
perity and contentment of the people.
everywhere without one exception, from
rlch and poor, from man, woman and child
we received the most exquisite courtesy
the most generous hospitality and kind
Eess.
The charm of manner, too, is universal
here. Even the beggars ask aims so mu-
sically and with such irresistible smiles and
bows that one delights in giving They are
satisfied so easily, and with such small
sums Five centimoS. equal to less than
one OF our cents at the present rate of ex-
cnange, is all they ever ask. Smiling radi-
ant children insist upon carrying all our
possessions and escort us on all our walks
taking whenever we are inclined to listen
IN their pretty lisping language and run
hlns TO gather Violets and almond blossoms
or the beautiful purple iris until our hands
are full. AT the end of long morning they
are delighted if one gives them what we
call a cent. One lovely little beggar girl
Drh y,i,,.-
of flowers as l walked up through the beau
tlful park to the palace Of the Alhambra
and utterly refused to be paid for them
The only kindness 1 had ever done her was
to pet an angelic baby brother, whom |
longed to keep in my arms and take away
to far America II
Kindly and Generous
The generosity of the Spanish lower
classes to each other is 1tmarkable, as
seen in the crowded thirdelass railroad
carriages. Every one is always ready to
give up the choice seat by the widow, and
no matter how crowded the ca& may be,
newcomers are always heartily welcomed
FOOD Is common property and meyer have i
seen the poorest laborer break><bread or
put his lips to his leather wine bag without
passing both to every one else. l was even
odered handful of live shrimps taken
from a carefully cherished pail 'I,rhe men
invariably ask if the ladies object to smok-
ing, but they evidently enjoyed their
cigarettes that We never had the heart to
refuse permission.
The table is excellent, everywhere Most
delicious salads, tender meats, abundance
OK fresh 1ruit. The prices, too, are very
low. Ihey range at the hotels from seven
pesetas day to fifteen. At the present
time six pesetas are given In exchange for
one American dollar. The fare on street
cars is only two of our Cents Coffee In
the early morning is generally extra, as the
regular late morning meal is counted as
the breakfast. Wine is everywhere in
cluded In the price of board, and IL one
wishes better quality-the price is al
ways low. We have drunk as a rule, the
delicious Jerez sherry, preferring it to the
red wines.
Will wait for marana. No one Is ever m a
hurry. There are no express trains. Even
the much-lauded Sud Express" woul,,
make busy American forget all his early
SUNDAY school instruction. l was in train
Few days ago that was delayed at a
small station nearly three hours most un-
accountably, and not one person got out
to ask the reason @ save four American
ladies, who vainly tried to find any one
who either knew ur cared to know what
the matter was.
It's delightful sometimes to feel sure
that no one Is in a hurry, because l do
most of my talking with dictionary in
ore hand.
We ara amused at being forced to nav a
war tax On each ticket that we buy. The
United States is popuiarly supposed to SYM
pathtZe with Cuba, but we certainly paid
every day to carry on war against her.
In Famed Toledo.
Don't fail to go to Toledo We found It
most interesting, and were charmed with
everything from the beautiful Alcantara
bridge over the rushing Tagus, to the triple
rows OF chains taken from Christian cap
tives at thu conquest OF Grenada, that
acorn the outer walls Of the Church Of San
Juan de los Reyes. We ate the far-famed
Mazapan until we never wanted to see
candy again. nor cake, for 1t Is really a
mixture Of both. We dreamed of the days
or Rodertck and were disgusted at reading
In our guide book that one more woman
was blamed for a mans defeat
DO not expect to get a Toledo blade
cheap, ror even tiny paper cutter. Tie
prices are exorbitant, but the work, even
at TINS late day, Is marvelously fins and
beautiful The collection of famous swords
at Madrt1 In the armory would make a
boys eyes grow big with wonder and with
envy. Boys would be Interested, too, 1
know. in the guards. who. armed to the
teeth accompany every train, with orders
never to lay down their guns. and to shoot
at sight any one that molests the trains
They are picked men and fns shots Many
Span1ards told US their vigilance and ac-
curacy of aim had made travelling a COM
fort instead Of a constant danger from
brigands and train robbers
We have seen no bull fights They come
later in the spring, but we have done all
the really Spanish things we could, even
to buying lottery ticket, which we hope
will win the first prize. ByTthe way, the
drawing takes place today sat Madrid. 1
had forgotten it entirely All Spaniards
and apparently all travellers buy tickets
They are thrust in your hands 'at every
corner and on every train and the draw
ings take place every ten days. 1 have
refrained from wearying with guide-book
Every one knows what the
AlcaZar at Seville Is and the Wondrous
mosque at Cordova and Granada,s dream
of beauty. I will say, though, take them in
that order else the first two hose immense
ly. The Alhambra should bel the climax
The Madrid Gallery
One needs to lead UP to the Madrid Art
Gallery, too, else the Murilios at Cadiz
and Seville fail to charm. No words can
describe the paintings at Madrid. One sits
speechless there for hours and goes home
TO dream of them. Murillos, TItians Ra-
phaels. Rubens, Vandykes. velasquez: ia
miliar in photographs from ones childhood,
but now first seen In all the softness and
glory of the masters colorinr.
There is nothing else at Madrid-saye the
Art Gallery and the armory. The rest is
new and modern and uninterestfrg, One
smiles at the choice Of Madrid as a capi-
tai; city with no advantage Of site what
ever, not even q nayieahle r{ver coId and