The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-05-15
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE SUMNER GIRL PUZzLING OVER
THE TRIMMING OF HER GOWNS.
The Untrustworthy Dressmaker a
Great Feminine TriaI-Eating Be-
tween McaIs-More New Women"

The summer girl IS occupying a good
ly portion of her time in trying to decide
how she will trim her dressy dress skirts,
says a writer in the New York Ledger
Plain ones she has and intends to stick to,
but fancy fabrics lend themselves so pref
tily to decoration that she Is reluctant to
miss the opportunity to indulge in a profus-
ION of fanciful garniture on a few, at
least, of her dainty dresses. It seems to
matter little just now what is used as
trimming material, so long as it is odd and
not too inappropriate.
Among other styles we find skirts trimmed
with bands of fancy silk cut on the bias
and stitched down upon either edge. This is
revival of an old fashion, and If due care
is used in selecting the silk and the goods
1t is to trim the results may not be I'M
pleasant.
An advantage is gained when the waist is
profusely trimmed with the same material
or made OF it altogether. A very attractive
costume has waist of tartan and a skirt
of broadcloth. The waist is entirely of the
silk. the skirt has seven bias bands of silk
stitched on as a trimming. There are three
bands near the hem, then a space in which
the fourth is arranged in saw-teeth style
then one plain band above. This covers, all
told, about one-third of the skirt
Another dress is of cloth and taffeta
There are cloth cuffs and collar to the waist
and the skirt is almost covered with bias
bands, made into puffs and set in curves
arabesques and zig-zags of almost every
conceivable FORM
A novelty in skirts is shown The upper
portion of the skirt fits the figure very
closely 'as close. indeed, as possible and
leave any freedom Of movement. This is
quite firmly lined and beneath it there is a
deep flounce toward the hem. This is secured
ny goreing the f1ounce until it flares almost
IKE an umbrella cover. 1t is exceedingly
a a1 sNS to walk in and will probably be
az snort-nVed as many other of the eccen-
tilcltles with which fashion is favoring us
sIhere is but one thing TO be said in favor
o. Vta some OF these new models, and that is
Inat tney are admirably suited for remod-
eLlng dresses; This fact, however, strikes
Inelr death knell, because costumes with
s acS sugg yes OF made-over. never do
acHleve any continued popularity and are
not particularly liked by the best authori-
ues on Dress. Once in a while every woma n
or S,,a u ,,,. MADE over She has pet dress
~ TWO win associations, or of some mater
laI tnat 1t is impossible to duplicate. and
oiSIlkes to give them up. Under these cir
cumstances such a fashion does not come
amiss, but for regular use the Suggestion is
not pleasing: If it were not that 1t adds So
g s,,esy 10 their weight, cloth dresses with
!I!uICkeu skirts would be much more to the
liking OF the best dressed women. They
are really very handsome but SO burden
become I1reSOmo a
state or things not to be tolerated bv wono
en- OF sense. Skirts are much more com.
t spitahee and light when folds of silk are
tL. t on ana IN way as pretty as those
material. Win Their own
exceedingly pretty and graceful are tba
VvIsdnulss ana other thin materials that are
trimmed with bands and folds The gar
nlture adds greatly to the firmness of tSasa
iaDrics and is for this reason an advanta9e
III ri,t user. When such thin goods are put up
Wltnout attached Innings skirts are ami 70
s5S and get very much out of shane E,iah
oldle trimming appropriately applied re-
moves this objection and is. therefore, a
n,ster5 oeVlce Tor identifying diapharious
paterlal. A skirt that is not only sensible
put beautiful is of black grenadine II is
trimmed with bands of ribbon set on first
bhouhu ana round the skirt. These bands are
pasted on, then before the sewing is done
other rows are run in and interlaced basket
Iashlon, but with the perpendicular lines 81
running s I,g diagonally. This makes a series
oI Qlauond-shape ped figures which are more
angles. "e iisiil
a very attractive model is that of an i'm
ported oress of Japanese Grape and EN-
broiderei fiouncng This is made nm over
SILK, the Grape forming the usual shened
skirt. then from waist line to hem there are
Daies I 1I embroidery close together at the
waist line, but spreading out as thew an
proach point about twenty inches above
the hem. Here they meet a founce of EN-
t,o that covers the entire lower por-
ton OF the skirt This fiOunce is very full
and very elegant. The heading is a band
or beaded and embroidered gailoon which
rs IN itself work of art. The waist is
made with yoke outlined with the gailoon
referred to- The sleeves have shoulder puffs
and frills of embroidery and the wrists are
nnished with single row Of the gaIloon.
Il is to be emphatically the season of thin
fabrics. so the best authorities tell us and
all manner of lace. grenadine crane or
candle. lawn and other semi-transparant
materials will be used to an extent almost
unprecedented