The times., 1898-01-30
q NBHB@M M90M.

quantity rather than quality, and the
cookery was rather tasteless. OF late
years the Afuerican public has becoine
50 accustomed to the French cuisine tIaf
there is not one Important cook III this
tig Kitchen who has not learned his trade
in Paris The chef. Adrien Tenue. for in
stance, received his first training in Paris.
Frou there ne went to Baeen Baden, to
Vienna, Beriin- Copenhagen, Stockholm,
and London .iearnlDg eyeryT here ever ything
that he could about every branch of
cookery F-om Lonuion he returned to
Paris for ali extra course, and then came to
! this country. lie was chef for the late jay
Gould, for the Fifth Avenue Hotel. and for
the Cafe SaTarin. for a tiuue and then ne
returned to Paris coming back to take
Possession OF the Waldorf Kitchen. The
ctIiefs Of eact department under him ha We
been educdt ted in a similar way and all are
French COOKS.
The principal characteristics of the
cookery OF today are its deiiCa te seasoning
and fine sauces. It is fashionab bic now to
serveeverytlnng in very small portions, but
in individual fancy forias. 50 that each
DISH not only pieases tn, taste but also TIE
eye. 1t Is very seldom that one sees a TBas
or a Joint at fashionable dinner now.
French Cookery has mad chance to
develop remarkably in this country. mas
much as a large amount of material is used
We seldom lind corn use there, okra is un-
known. and tomatoes have only recently
been grown ;0any extent. Then he VARIETY
OF wild ducks is much larger here, and wild
turkeys and geese. and too many other
Things To mention, are practically unkno VII
Fewer c Jurs .Sars served a { a dinner thar
formerly. There seems to be strong en-
teayor to limit the length OF a dinner to
from a N hour To an hour adj half whereas
people used TO sit at table for from two To
five hours This is considered not only
very tires1iae in this rush age, but also
very bad form. Prompt service. without
unseernly haste, is. one of the keynotes
TO q successful dinner. Now. all told. what
do you thiak of the biggest Kitchen in
the world?-'
The reporter took in the hundreds Of
shining cooking utensils hanging from the
ceiiing within easy react of the cooks. She
swept her eyes over the spOtless tiled
floor and tables and dressers. and then she
turned her attention to the sayory dishes
on the ranges.
tn tell you what think she answered
slowly. I've read of a lot OF Kitchens in
New Englan being as neat as wax and run
like clock work, and we heard of a lO6 of
kitchen floors clean enough To eat off in
cooking schools but / think this is the
only one in this country or any other where
l would literally be willing TO take meal
from off the floor. But may l ask one
more question? How do you manage about
your soups Suppose you have twenty
soups on the bill of fare for dinner. Would
they all be in big pots ready to serye:''
Heavens, no. - he answered. That's the
way we managed Things twenty years ago,
and that's the way hote: soup fell into such
disrepute and became the buttof professional
JokeTS, whicn is the worst fate that can
come to anything or anybody We make
400 gallons Jf first class soup stock in this
Kitchen every day. All French soups are
made of stock, you know, and il you have
good stock on hand the finest kind of soup
can be made in jiffy, and is much better
for being quickly made