The times., 1898-01-16
What Is Latest and Newest liz
Winter Modes.
THE PLAID EVENING SLIPPER
Blouse Street Costumes Waning in
Popularity-wi Last Until Easter
How TO Simulate a Jeweled Belt
with Velvet Ribbon and Buttons
Chemises aud Pctficoat Matched

puBDSdI AOUldll HAS To cbnlTtUl NHtl
changing their dressmakers is the ex-
pense of new pair Of stays. 1t has
become the custom of every profession
al mistress of the robes TO demand
that the gowns she makes be fitted
over a pet and particular cut Of cor
get, and as the corset the dressmakeT
recommends is invariably phenominal-
ly expensive, faint Whit OF birthstone
is noticeable in the sartorial air. The
most august miStresses of the needle
viii not guarantee perfect adjust
Inent of a basque unless stays low on
the bust and short on the hips are
used, and for thin women tney are rec
ommending, nay. almost forcing the
use of stays padded with plush
This material is introduced especially
under the arms and under projecting
shoulder blades. Hips are built out by
placing layers on layers of swan's s
down on the under side OF that portion
OF the corset that fits over the hips
and is declared by those who have eX-
perimented in all manner of materials
TO be the only one that exactly simu-
lates springy cushions of flesh. Apro-
pcs Of swans down, il is an open Sc
cret that those who are in the bitter
est weather wear in the street their
smart, Immediately fitting suits,
without other wrap than a necklet OF
sable or martin tails, are simply pad
ded from throat to below the waistline
with this downy inner coat of the
swans body Cloth sleeves for their
arms are intePlined with it until eN-
quisite symmetry is attained and the
body of any dress can by use of il be
built out to show the loveliest curves
and lines. In consequence of this arti-
fetal figure the owner thereof need not
hide her newly-found feature under a
coat.
In the way of new corsets one good
thing the dressmakers have taken un-
der their patronage, stays made of
suede. A thicker undressed skin, of
course, is used than that for gloves.
nevertheless, all the soft. pliable
warmth Of a giant de suede is enjoyed
in these new figure makers that are
regular plums fallen in the not easy
path of the distinctively plump ladies
of fashion.
The especial virtue of the skin corset
is that it always gives little to the
figure every time it is assumed and
Thereby conveys fre sh and pleasing out
lines. 1t is as well purchasable in love
ly bright colors, its trimming usually
consists OF tiny frillS OF pinked ribbon
and 1T closes just like a glove IL is
also very easy to believe the sales
woman's statement that pair of suede.
corsets will very nearly last a decade.
but it should be borne in mind that
they are not for summer use.
Justice demands the admission that
all suede stays are not so expensive as
TO daunt economical shoppers, unless
eStraVagant decorations are required
lDGnnfa
little silver hooks and buttons in front
silver eyelets at the back and up ON
the left breast a tiny interviewer sill.
Yer monogram.
Here is another boon for the stour
women who suffer from a surplus of
hips, etc, and who have too much con-
science or too hearty appetites to lace
Let them give ear TO the new theory of
iacins their corsets by which too solid
nesh may be held in allegiance and Vet
no harm done physically
The dresSmallers have gotten this
new device from a physician who saws
to pun out your corset laces as YOU
now have them, lay the eyelet sides OF
the corsets vis-a-Vis, as to begin :,
fresh orthodox lacing and then taking
one lacer put it, from beneath. through
an eyelet at the waist line on that side
of the corset lying at your left. Draw
the lacer through as far at the ton
eyelet, run through this one and let
an end four or five inches long project.
Now take the other LAGER and pass ii
through that eyelet next below the one
where the other lacer first went
through and draw it down to the bot
tom eyelet, run through and let a five
inch end hang. Pick up the great
length of the first lacer and begin zig
tagging ii back and forth through eye
lets on both sides of the two sections of
corset until an end hangs out oppo-
site the first end mentioned. With the
Icng portion OF the second lacer zigzag
through the holes of both pieces of cor
set to the bottom, where an end must
hang out opposite the second end men
toned.
When so laced up. put on the cor
sets, hook them and see what will hap
pen. Simply pull on the top and bot
tom ends Of the laces that are not zig
Jagged through. and the corset viii
first draw in to fit about waist and
ribs comfortably and without pressure.
At top and bottom. though. where
over the bust and hips. the edges of
stays always project and add greatly To
eirth. these edges viii draw in perfectly
tight and fat No discomfort will. be
felt, aud. SO lacing her stays. woman
can reduce her hip and bust measure
q matter of three to five inches. In do
ing this the flesh is not rolled up un-
der her chin or thrust out in ungainlv
Jumps. but, because the stay is easy at
waist line and over ribs, the surplus
fat is gracefully readjusted.
So much for some of the secrets Of
the toilet. Touching matters of less
import, honesty demands faithful re-
porting of the fact that rings are dang
" nf
pink ears. To tell the truth. these
have only been seen in the "hupper
suckles'' of society, but who pray, sets
the fashions if not that very coterie?
To make these barbaric ornaments
popular, the jewelers. are contriving the
more sensible little attachments, by
which earrings can be comfortably
worn and no cruel hole forced through
the under lobe. From the top of the
ring a thread-like gold hook passes up
into the hallow of the ear in front
and at the back little gold foot lies
against the tender lobe with a firm,
yet not annoying pressue. Thus the
ornament is hung on safely and pain
lessly-
Stud eardrops are most distinctly out
of this new race. Long lovely drops. so
long as to almost touch the neck, are
the mode, though a pair of perfect
pear-shaped pearls dangling from the
tip of the lobe, are like solitaire dia-
mond rings, the expression of utmost
elegant refinement in jewels.
Perhaps if there is a woman who is
going to have her cherished diamond
ring reset, she will listen to a word
Of wisdom and follow the latest fash
ion. and select her setting in the form
of q coronet in variously colored gold.
The smart and novel settings for large
stones are ducal coronets, while small
gems are exquisitely placed in prongs
of gold TO represent sovereign rulers
crown. the diamond set exactly in the