The sun., 1898-01-23
THE LATEST STYLES.
A NEW COLOR LIKE THAT OF RAW
MOCHA COFFEE.

Bell Gowns and Their Novel Trimming
For Dance OF Opera Costumes-N Neck.
wear Fancies-Long Circular Capes.
Materials For Street Costumes.
copyright. 1897. by the Author.l
One Of the prettiest colors that have
ever been evolved is that found in the
raw mocha coffee berry. 1t is dull and
indistinct in itself; but, no matter what
other color is laid beside 1t, it at once
takes on . new beauty, and one seems
to understand it all for the first time.
With green, pink, scarlet, blue. brown,
or black it always looks as
II that one was the only proper color to
set it of until it is seen with another.
Just how it happened that 10 many diff.
ferent fabrics were simultaneously
produced in exactly the same shade Of
color l cannot tell, but it is found in
everything Cloth, when Of good quail
ity, is exceptionally handsome in this
color. Silk net for a ball gown in this
tint-for it is really more Of tint than
! decided color-over faint whitish
green taffeta was very refined and deli.
cate. Around the bottom of the skirt
was double bias ruffle, with trailing
wreath Of blood red roses along the cen
ter, and this extended quite around the
skirt. The waist was gathered with a
very slight blouse effect in front and q
draped belt Of the taffeta. There was q
bertha of silk null with three lines Of
the red roses across the front and run
ming up to the shoulders and ending
among the silk null puffed bows. Ber-
thas and fine but snowy foot trimming
are seen on nearly all dancing gowns,
particularly those made Of light stuff.
Much ingenuity is expended upon them.
Grape wrought into cockleshell pattern
is put on some and ruffles caught up on
others into little puffs like the bubbles
on q basin Of soapsuds. Others are
shown where pink silk null is made into
little rosettes, which look like contin-
uous wreath Of roses. Pinked out rose
plaitings are also seen. Some of the rose
plaitings are cut on the bias and the
edges fringed out. They are made very
full and are light as thistle down. This
kind of trimming is made of very thin,
stiff silk. Surah twill works better. It
is cut in the proper width on the true
bias. A sewing machine needle is bro
ken off at the eye, and the raw edge Of
the silk is sewed along about half or a
third of all inch from the edge This
makes the silk fray out into fringe, and
when it is plated up into the rose plait'
ing it is very pretty indeed. Both edges
are done.
One novelty in the trimming Of ball
gowns is where a dress Of white crepe
lisse was sewed with pink pearl beads
all over. The trimming in question was
around the bottom in a festoon made Of
pink silk null. The upper line was
gauffered puff less than an inch widc'
with doubled bias ruffle Of the same
beneath. This was pinched at irregular
intervals, giving it a crumpled lool
that was exceedingly pretty. The wide
sash belt was of rich pink MORE ribbon
whose ends reached nearly to the bottom
and ended in a fringe Of pearl beads
The sleeves to this pretty dancing frocl
were elaborate affairs, made Of pinl
null, moire ribbon and pearl beads
The bertha had bib front worked with
pink pearls and gold thread.
A new fancy for the adornment Of
the neck for those who are III full even
ing toilet is the black velvet dog collar
These are very becoming alike to tht
young girls slender neck and the elder
ly lady with three chins. Some are
made plain and stiffened. Others art
sewed upon stretched elastic, and whel
this is allowed to take its natural di
mensions after it is finished it looks likt
shirring with the edges ruffled. Hand
some gold, silver or jeweled buckles
fasten them. "Wristlets," as those
made for the wrists are called, are
equally becoming where the arm is ex
posed, the black velvet making the Skin
appear pure and pearly. Evening gloves
are long as ever. Some have no stitch
ing at all ON the back of the hand, 9th
ers are stitched in heavy cords, and 9th
ers again are beaded. There are many
novelties in evening gloves, but some
how none pleases as we'll as do the nous
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