The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-06-05
SUGAR-MAKING IN CUBA.
nie B. Visit
aaar NJ -
Special Cor. St. Louis Globe-Democrat.

Special Cor. st. Louis Globe-Democrat.
WASHINGTON, D. c., May 81
When the present war began Cuba had
1921 prosperous sugar plantations. To-
day "the sound Of the grinding is low"
for only six of them are in operation.
A few weeks ago I visited one Of the
six, which is situated in the southeast
ern corner Of the province Of MatanZas.
1t was an all-day journey, leaving Ha-
Vanla at a. M, and reaching the goal
soon after sunset. Probably the dis
lance is not more than 200 miles, as
the crow flies, but the extraordinarily
built to accommodate some large es-
tates-zigzags to and fro like the tack
ing Of a ship. Travelling by rail in Cuba
is never unalloyed delight, and in these
troubled times diScOmfCctS are doubled.
Besides the usual slOWness and irregu-
larfty of service, the heat, dust and ab-
selfce Of rating statiOns-noWadays
trains are in momentary danger of be-
ing fired into, derailed or exploded by
bombs, and each has it's disquieting
attachment of two ironcIad cars filed
with Spanish soldiers standing by their
guns at the loOpholes. Sophisticated
travellers watch every thicket, hill and
hollow which might possibly shelter an
insurgent, and throw themselves fiat on
the dirty floor of the car at the first
indication Of attack.
After hours of slow riding through a
totally unoccupied country, between
burned cane fields, the smoke from
more burning fields visible on either
side, at nightfall we reached a misera-
BILE little hamlet Of palm matched hutS.
What was our establishment, on alight-
ing in the mud Of this desolate place,
to behold modern horse car. Every
thing about 1T was fresh and trim
spotless windows, cushioned seats.
straps to hold on-nothing missing but
the nickel box or the conductor with
his bell punch. We were within the
boundary Of the sugar estate, and the
car Is the private property of the plant
er, who had come, with his family, to
meet us. Then away we were whisked
over three miles of car track, between
rows of stately palms, hedges of giant
aloes and boundless stretches of sugar
cane to the door of the manor house.
There new surprises awaited us. The
great two-storied casa, with its latticed
venandas and innumerable windows,
was brilliantly illumined with cleo
tricity, and is furnished with all the
comforts and elegancies of city life.
The apartment assigned to my use was
the most beautiful I have occupied in
many a day, with it's handsome French
furnishings and delicate frescoes, I'M
der the soft glow Of electric lights in
the form of pink lilies, and better than
all, after the long days dusty ride it
had the welcome adjunct Of perfectly
appointed bath room. Presently dinner
was served in the wide, cool hall, and
fine old silver, mOnogramed china, re-
quisite drapery we'll drilled servants,
oysters, game, rare wines, made it diff
f1cult to remember that we were in the
heart Of an impoverished, war-be-
leaguered island. I had been told that
the wealthy Cuban planters live like
princes, and now believed that many
Old World potentates might change
places with them and get the best Of
the bargain.
The estate Of which I speak is by no
means one Of the largest in Cuba. The
proprietor told me that it is only six
teen miles long by ten miles wide, COM
prising about 10000 acres. AIT present
it supports something over 5000 people,
collected in four villages In ordinary
times 1000 was the average upon the
estate. Since the war the planter has
been compelled to maintain 1900 Span
ish soldiers, In twelve forts, erected at
his own expense along the edges Of
the estate. After Weyler's concentra-
ton order 1000 reconcentrados were
also quartered upon him. The poor
people were driven from their homes
and forced to go to the cities or the
fortified plantations. There is no city
in this end of the province, and no
other plantation in operation; so they
f1ocked in here, and could not be left
to starve. The humane planter built
them houses and protected them as
best he could, and for more than two
years has furnished them with food
clothes and medicines. OF course they
have more than absorbed the profits Of
the plantation, but some of them are
able to work little, and all are CRATE
full and wellJbehaved. The greatest
trouble is with their so-called pro
tectors,' the soldier guard If the lat
ter want beef, they kill the first COW
they can see, though it be the finest
Jersey; If fresh horses are needed, they
help themselves to the best the plan
tation affords. When the spirit moves
them to recreation, they troop over to
the manor house and demand it's use
for a dance. "A high old time" but
tamely expresses the night that en-
sues. The soldiers pick up female
partners wherever they can-camp fol-
lowers, the daughters of plantation