The Jersey City news., 1898-06-14
"a IDEAS for duonacn

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The always careful and up-to-date
Partisan correspondent of the DRY Goods
Economist" under date Of May q, says:
Sleeves have undergone SO complete u
change. the question assumes paramount
Importance for dressmakers and tailors
whether executing orders for the summer
OF designing models for next season. /
therefore purpose TO devote portion OF
this letter to a description of sleeves
alone. choosing as specimens the most
recent creations, OF the first Parisian
houses.
One rule to be carefully observed in all
cases is that the armhole, into which the
sleeve is set, must be cut as small as is
consistent with comfort. To manage tiis
the bodice is carried as high as possible
under the armpits, an arrangement which
also has the effect of adding to the length
of the figure-a poiEt to be insisted upon
in the cutting of all sorts of bodices,
vests. Jackets. etc.
The majority of new sleeves are made
in two pieces. the curve of the elbow be-
ing well defined in both, and the under
piece is very narrow. Some. however
are cut in one piece on the cross, but this
method can only be adopted with success
when the garment is made to order, and
moreover it is only becoming to women
with rather full, well formed arms.
In designing ready-mades this form
should be eschewed
Some few of the new coats have sleeves
cut IN three pieces. by which means an
increase of width at the top without the
help of pleats is obtained. This style
will mostly be adopted where thick cloths
are used and when the coat seams are
strapped.
Absolutely plain sleeves are rather ex-
ceptional. even those of tailor made cos
tunes generally have some sort of trim
ming at the wrists. recalling that used for
the jacket. vest or bodice to which they
belong Nevertheless, sleeves withoa.
trimming whatsoever are sometimes
chosen as a set off to rather smartiy
trimmed dresses.
Jacket and coat sleeves are mostly cut
straight off at the wrists, when the trim
ming will take the form of a fat cuff or
laid round the edge, but the funnel
shaped cuffs turned over the hand, so
much worn this spring, especially for
cloth costumes and coats, will be re-
tanned. They should be lined with the
material used to face the lapels and coli
lar
Dress and smart costume sleeves are
also finished in funnel form, somewhat
modified in width. when the edge is
frilled or ruffles of some sort are worn
underneath
others are cut in sifflet, that is to say.
diagonalIy at the extremities, like the
mouthpieee of whistle. the point COM
ing over the back of the hand. Others
again, have notch on the outer side, or
are curved-up on the outer side when they
are trimmed en- sabot-with frillings
deepest and fullest at the point made by
the junction of the two curves.
The idea of lengthening shoulder seams
has been abandoned; some dressmakers.
Indeed. cut them shorter than ever. This
necessitates the sleeve being much higher
on its outer side. BY shaping it like The
narrow end of an egg and mounting 1t
very high on the shoulder, it is possible
to avoid fulling it in at all at the top. but
undoubtedly this style, which is very
difficult to accomplish satisfactorily, will
not be attempted in designing the more
ordinary run of costumes. which will be
made with sleeves slightly fulled in on
the shoulder not plated.
Moveover, sleeves closely fitting the
curve of the. shoulder are far from meet
ing with unanimous approval. and many
degrees of fulness find favor, even to the
small puff formed by plaits laid in to the
front and back of the armhole.
Then, again, epaulettes have by no
means gone out of fashion, though the
tendency is to make them very small, and
these mitigate in an agreeable way the
severity of completely tight sleeve.
Among some of Paquin's latest crea-
tions noted a dress in faced cashmere
cashmere velours-the plain sleeves OF
which are surmounted by little epaulette
or strap, made of a band of satin plated
across and bound with { fold of the ma
terial on both its edges.
The top of the plain sleeves of a prin-
cess dress in clotfl-which is buttoned
down the left side seams of bodice and
skirts concealed by close fitting
shoulder cape, trimmed with curved
bands of cloth in two or three colors
studded with small steel beads.
In many cases the little epaulette is cut
IN one with the bodice. which is hordered
to correspond with the trimming of the
dress, a single band Of the trimming-folds
of material rows of velvet. galloon, lace
insertion, etc-being sometimes added on
the sleeve itself midway between shoulder
and elbow.
Epaulettes are also made of one or
more shaped frillings curved sufficiently
to sit in waves, and of double or triple
frillfngs of lace when lace IS the decora-
tion of the dress.
Dress bodices cut low over high plast-
rons-a style in immense favor this sea-
son-wlf1 often have sleeves of the same
fabric as the plastron surmounted by an
epaulette. which finishes the low bodice
on the shoulders. Or the robe may be in
verted and the sleeves be of the same ma
terial as the bodice. whereas the plast-
ron is prolonged over the shoulder in
epaulette form.
For the rest sleeves are trimmed in an
infinite variety of styles One of Red
FERNS most recent productions-an adj
mixture of mousseline cloth embroidered
on the material Itself and of velvet-has
sleeves of cloth arranged in cross folds
down to the elbow, the rest being in vel
vet with broad cuff of embroidered
cloth The whole fits the arm like a glove
from above the shoulder joint to well
over the wrist.
A system of trimming for cloth and fan
cy wooden costumes which will obtain
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