The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1898-05-01
CHANGES IN FOOTWEAR.
Different Kinds of Leather Now Al
fected-How They Are Procured

Different Kinds of Leather Now Al
fected-Hoyv They Are Procured.
From the Philadelphia Times
What a change has come over the char
acter of our footgear in about the last
eight years! Twenty years ago the use
of patent leather shoes was, confined to
young men of the "Jakex'' order, and they
only wore them on Sundays when they
paraded the sidewalks of Kensington and
Southwark. Walnut, Spruce and Pine
streets looked upon them with horror.
Nowadays they are the mode, and sensi-
blv so. because they are easily cleaned and
frightened and can readily be made pre-
sentable even on a rainy, muddy day Ten
years ago he who would have predicted
the reign of the russell shoe might nave
been in danger of incarceration IN an
asylum for the insane. 1t came in vogue
with the negige shirt, and now both are
with us to stay during the spring and
summer months and the bright-colored
shoes are even making strong inroads as
acceptable foot coverings in fall and win
ter.
In her choice of leather Dame Fashion
shows the same tickle mind as In her Sc
lection of dress goods or other wearing
apparel A few years ago a very pro-
sia leather The distinctive odor which
characterizes Il seems to have peculiar
fascination for the general public, and
they are no longer content to have their
pocketbooks, their purses their bags or
their belts made of Russia leather, but
they must have their boots, shoes or slip
pers made of the same material. This
strong demand has naturally led to the
manufacturing of numerous limitations.
Until few years ago Russia stood alone
in producing ii, and it was supposed that
the peculiar odor was only obtainable by
Russians in Russia. But now il IS very
well initiated both in England and Ameri-
ca Birch oil is used instead Of cod oil
in dressing, or in currying the samesoil Is
mixed with the cod Oil This produces
the distinctive smell. Several dyes have
also been used, and an article is produced
which only an expert can tell from the
genuine article. glo-Russians," as
the limitations are called, were the rage
this year, and great variety of colors
and shades were produced, though the
various shades of brown were most sought
for. Tan and dark orange followed next
in the public esteem. Some very attrac-
five reds are stil offered, from which the
shoe manufacturers turned out shoes
which will tempt the public during the
coming summer season.
But of all fashions pet feathers ooze calf
is the favorite few years ago ii was
unknown. This spring, in all the many
original designs for taste for footgear,
ooze calf will play a very conspicuous part.
Its soft, velvety feeling and appearance
no doubt commends il 20 the favor of the
favor of the ladies. 1t IS really calf, small
skins Of fine fabric being selected. The
dyes are percolated or oozed through it,
hence it's name. The velvety feeling is
given to the flesh side by a series of sand
papering while the grain side of the skin
is lightly pebbled. This permits Of many
combinations from the same skin. Thus
shoe may have a vamp the velvet side
out and quarters grain side out, and as the
head and neck of the skin are always
slightly darker In shade than the butt,
these parts are used for trimmings. The
peculiar texture of the calfskin permits of
its being dyed a fast color" in any color
and shade from jet black 10 a bright Or
ange or cream white. Not only Is ooze calf
being used in the manufacture Of shoes,
but it is now utilized TO sauiteoan extent
by the makers of albums, pocketbooks.
handbags, card cases, pepwipers and a
thousand other novelties. Nor Is this all,
for the dressmalers have caught the pop.
ular craze, and ooze calf now adorns the
headgear and serves as the latest in dress
trimmings.
Kangaroo is another Of fashions favor
ties 1t was first used in the manufacture
of shoes about seventeen years ago. since
which time IL has gradually grown in fa-
vor. As il has won public favor entirely
by its merits, IL will doubtless retain its
popularity for some years. 1t has the vir-
tue of being both durable and very easy
to the foot. It's strength Is so great as 10
defy the power Of ordinary meauto, tear.
The kangaroo was first hunted for sport.
The Australian considered that his visit
ing English cousin had not dope, the
country If he returned without enjoying
the excitement of a kangaroo hunt. The
kangaroo is now hunted for profit the
hide being worth. delivered at the sea
ports of Australia. from Is to s. cents a
pound. AS shooting Injuries the hide the
killing is generally done by clubbing. Dur
ing 1SS8-that is from a census report-up-
wards Of 10000 kangaroo hides were inn
ported into the United States. Add 10 this
the number Of hides consumed H. Europe,
and It seems no wonder that the Australian
government Is now discussing the, advisa-
biity Of limiting The annual slaughter OF
kaugaroos
Patent leather has been one Of the crea-
lures of fashions fancy. The better grades
Of patent leather shoes are made from calf.
II may be surprising TO many 20 learn that
no patent calf is made ia this country; but
Is all imported from Germany and France.
Some few years ago the tanners here spent
considerable money ia trying 10 make
patent calf that would compare favorabIy
il quality with the imc-skSd article, but