The times., 1898-05-22
BURNT ORANGE FORbLOHDs
Black and Blue for Those of
Olive Cheek.
TIE PRINCES
GOWN
IL VIII Take Regal Place Next
FnIf-SFanEIrs Have Driftcd 10
hons are Tied Under the Left Ear.
Spanish ITIcuaces.

There is one daring. dangerous alterna-
live open TO the woman who is growing
little weary Of the predominating blue
Of this season. Blue. of course, is well
enough in its way and almost a uni
yersaIIy becoming color. but a human love
OF variety has led to the setting up of
burnt orange as a rival of this queen
among fashionable tiuts.
Though more or less of this eccentric 4
color has been worn for the past six
months il is only just beginning to as
sert itself. Thus far its influence is felt
chiefly on hats and at the glove counter.
for there is nothing more exquisitely
modish one can do than dare wear pair
ofsix button burnt orange suedes, stitched
and buttoned with silk and pearl, to ex-
actIy match the brilliant skin To do
this requires courage too. for it is only
the young, the fair, the clear of skin,
and the limpid Of eye who can presume
to stand the test of such close associa-
ton she who has a complexion less
delicate than June rose had best make
herself content with the more helpful and
and caressing tones of blue, etc. while
a gray haired woman should avoid burnt
orange as carefully as tropical travellers
steer ciear Of the deadly upas tree. With all
the pituessness of an electric searchlight
Ii fauuts in public gaze every wrinkle.
and give gray hair peculiarly dead
appearance, that no self-venerating wo-
man can relish. Strangely, too. burnt
orange IS not a color the brunette should
adopt. or even permit herself the slight
est association with. 1t takes all the
color from an olive complexion, and even
sheds a gray unwhOlesOme tint over the
youthful brown checks. Par excellence
burnt orange belongs to the bright
blonde: to the blue-eyed women or to
those slorying in chestnut hair and
milk and carnatiOn cheeks. These daugh-
tiers Of The northern gods know their ad-
vantage and are using the brilliant color
on their hats, dash it in as collars. GRID
les revers. tucked yol1es, shirtwaists. etc,
with dark gowns, and one pink and
white and gold beauty, who is TO make
her debut at Newport win wear a mirror
velvet gown Of burnt orange, relieved
only by cream laces and pearls
There is a distinct tendency among the
women who make dress and its perfec-
tion the study of their lives. and who.
therefore. are the selected leaders of
fashion TO get the broad color effects in
their Wardrobes TO harmoniZe with the
color that predominates in their own Wis
ages For example, there IS a marked
preference for gray among those on whose
hair the hand of time has, prematurely or
otherwise been laid. Blonde young wO-
men. al the first Spring functions held
indoors, or out, by night or day, wear a
conspicuous amount of yellow, and the
raVen-hsiTed bTunettes have only just dis
covered a fact which portrait painters
have always been aware Of. that in black
they looked their best The dark-browed
a.
and tissues with blue. in any one OF the
sixteen new popular tones, and so do the
nUn-ilke Eray-haired women. But this
record Of the Kaleidoscope movement Of
the modes would be all incomplete if par
ricular stress was not again laid on the
steadily growing fODdness for white. A
month ago a word was dropped about
this. since when the wearers of white
have been rapidly recruiting their ranks,
At the early Spring luncheons, break
fasts weddings and such high noon festi-
walls the white silk. satin and brocade
gowns. not 10 speak Of the white embroid-
cred silk gaUzcs, crepes. etc. made most
striking appearance. At some Of the we'd
dings given recently. the province OF the
bride and her maids was so invaded by
the guests that one relative from the
country, went home in the firm convic-
ton that her cousin had some forty sup
porters at the altar; for Just that num-
ber OF women attended her reception in
costumes fit for the bridal cortege. Up
10 tins moment only the women Of great
wealth have attended IuncheOns in white
brocades. high necl5ed and short sleeved,
garnished with lace and accompanied by
pearls. white plume loaded hats and
shoes of white glace kid. The effect is
one of great richnes and such eKtravagant
splendor that 1t cannot but be admired,
enVied, and Unhappily enough copied, by
raf
tension
If anyone should ask a leading modiste
whittier we are drifting, she would not
hesitate to say that the whole current of
fashion is setting SO strongly in the direc-
tion Of the princess gown that by next
Autumn it win be as dominant a rule OF
dress as the Spanish fiounce is now, or
the pouched basque front has been. 1t re
quires twelve whole months from the date
Of its inception for new cut Of garment
10 grow into an accepted fashion. Some
cuts. draperies. colors or fabrics die in the
grating process and some last as q
fashion, as long as two years. The prin-
cess has been a solid eight months on its
way from Paris, its place of revival. to
COlumbia's shores, but by next September
every woman viii be arrayed en- princess,
and as familiar with the style as If she
had never worn a garment of any other
shape There are right now whole pro-
CeSslOns Of canvas, etamine, challie, fou-
lard, silk warp, bareges and gowns of
fancy transparent and striped goods,
travelling countrywards daily in women's
trunks, and every one is a princess model
The skirts have all curtain fronts that is
they open in two parts over their trimmed
foundation petticoats, and an imposing
contingent hook their bodices together in
the back, also on the left shoulder and
under the arm. The princess style was
always calculated to show a gracious,
round feminine figure OFF to the utmost
advantage, and ii is going to do il again
by throwing the fat and the fiat-chested
women into the cruelest contrast and
sharpest relief The Autumn, therefore,
may be anticipated with some oIalms and
questions by a large feminine majority
Spangles reached the high tide of their
popularity last Winter. The recessional
movement In this pretty mode has now
Enthusiastically set in, for Spangled goods
are down on the bargain counters. How
ever. the smartest of women viii wear
the bright ornament steadily through the
Summer and II any feminine soul, ham
pered by a restricted pocketbook. still
bankers after the pretty decorations. let
her satisfy her yearning now. If she
wants to keep step with the march of
style however. she must adopt her pref
erences to appliques. and satisfy her
craving for the beautiful in shlrring and
narrow ruffiing. She may be also sure
that q little later on embroidery will
come 10 hold a most honored place in the
world OF dress. Out Of the East, where
the most exquisite needle work in the
world is done. specially woven and deco
rated fabrics are being brOugh: for
American trade Bullion worked gauzes.
tulles and silks are coming from India