Evening star., 1898-10-08
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Furs That viii Be in Style This Coming
Winter
Sealskin for Those Who Have Long
Purses-Modlsh Coats and Wraps
-MuGs and Hats.
pecial Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, October g. 1898.
| The furriers havetheir wares all displayed
| and from Montreal come models of the furs
in which the women will deck themselves
during the carnival One of the mysteries
of openings is the fact that although one
may now determine what furs are to be
worn, cloth coats are still kept in the back
ground, and even models of what we may
expect in the way of heavy winter wraps
are shown only to a favored few.
Sealskin is growing to be the most ex-
| pensive fur on the market, and 1t is only
| a question of time when a sealslxin coat or
cape will be worth kings ransom. In the
| meantime, while these coats and capes are
still within the reach of well-filled purses
| 1t should be remembered that although Per-
sian lamb is still the smartest fur it can
| not compare in becomingness to almost
every shade of hair and skin to sealskin.
| Inc newest shapes in coats of either Per-
| san lamb or sealskin are double-breasted
ana culaWay below the waist line rounding
OH TO form sort of cutaway polonaise re-
| mlndlng one very much Gin spite of the
| dlfterence in materially of the half-polo-
| nalse OF lace which decorates many of the
winter models of gowns from French mo-
| distes But if one is going to invest in a
| sealskin 1t would be wiser to have one of
| the double-breasted Jackets with reveres
| and collar lining of chinchilla or any Other
1
| contrasting fur which one may desire For
| IL sealSklnS are to be investment and if
! may be that we will never be able to have
| anotner, II is best to have as much skin or
pelt IN that one garment as possible in or
| ger that alterations may be made success
| fuily when capricious Dame Fashion be-
| luxurious garment.
Reveres of chinchilla by the way. are
| much used on coats or capes of either Per-
| sian lamb or sealskn and are very beauti-
| do
| ever, begin to stand the exposure to wind
! and weather that sealskin or even tender
~ ~Iefsiaii lamb, will stand without getting
| ShabbY, ard this should be considered when
| ordering a garment. Chinchilla is a fair
| weather fur
Of Persian Lamb.
| Persian lamb coats were very popular
| last year, and this year will be worn as
much as ever. But last year they were
| made with blouse effect. So many of
the new french models of gowns still droop
shshtiy in the front that it hardly seems
necessary to have beautiful and expen-
| slVe skin sent back to be altered simDly
| because 1t IS not the very latest cut Rut
| many iastidIous women are having their
| coats altered. They are having the back
| tightly fitted and the front drawn in. or
| perhaps also fitted snugly, putting on fiat
| cutaWay tails, or perhaps Cwhen expense
Is rot an iten) having the whole skirt of
the blouse removed and cutaway long
| basque put in its place The worn snntS
are being judiciously covered with gold
or beaded galloon. This galloon is a beaui-
ful gold and silk braid, which sets off the
| dark, rich fur most attractively. Where
| salloon is not used there is usually lew
eIed belt clasped about the waist to bright
en- the fur. This sort of painting the Iilv''
| hardly seems necessary, as the beauty of
| fur needs little trimming, and it is not
probable 1t will be popular for very long
The plain, long serviceabl capes of this
| year are not
graceful They are made much scantier than
| heretofore and hang in straight folds which
are lar tfom becoming. But to compen-
safe Us for this there are founced capes
without number, and in every combination
| OF fur possible. Then, too, even for plain
capes there are reveres and Innings to the
collar which may be of some lighter fur
winch IS becoming to the face and softening
| in its effect These fur capes with circular
| founces are made exactly like the cloth
capeS which were made up for early an
| tumn wear, and which bid fair to be popu-
lar throughout the winter whenever a cape
Is a necessary garment. They are short in
front and curve gracefully down until very
long nearly to the knees, in the back
They have about them one or two founces
| of fur, sometimes of the same fur as the
body OF the cape, sometimes a contrasting
SKIN. For instance, O magnificent mink
cape has two fiounces of sealskin. The col
lar Is also lined with sealskin. The combi-
nation of sealskin and mink is a very hap
py one, as each fur sets off the other
Capes edged with f1ounce of the same fur
are often made, but this is not in especially
good taste especially in the case of seal
skin. 1t reminds one of velvet gowns trim
med with ruff1es of themselves, which Is
barbarSm.
Once More in Favor.
Astrakhan is worn again and although
not an expensive fur in itself it is usually
seen combined with a more rare fur the
beautiful plucked otter lining the inside of
the collar and forming the wide revere of
an astrakhan coat. which is short, coming
little below the jeweled belt and which
fastens on the left side under the revere
Short capes coming just below the shoul-
ders are still in favor and are most useful
in these days of heavy cloth gowns, when
one needs something which can be put on
Wnen leaving house but cannot. in addi-
tton to the weight of the gown, support a
heavy wrap as we'll These short yokes
often have fitted yoke Of one fur and
around this heavy ruffle or cape of a con-
trasttng fur. Indeed, it may be given as a
good general law to follow that every fur
garment should be composed of two varie-
ties of fur Many of the capes have a fit
ted lining of fur with close hair and are
finished with sable or marten tails. Among
the short capes the combinations of ermine
and aStrakhan, or ermine and broad-tafl
must not be forgotten: These are simply
beautiful with a fitted yoke of broad-tail
or astrakhan, and a collar and border about
the yoke of ermine Ernnine is also made
up In short capes and evening wraps.
Muffs and Hats.
In these combinations of fur the muff
which is carried is usually made of the fur
which is used for collar lining and for trim
ming, although sometimes the muff may be
of the fiaring order of the darker fur. show
ing a lining of the lighter. Muffs are either
large and plain of the variety Just de-
scribed above. The collars on all fur wraps
are without any exception Medici shape
and this gives play for the various Innings
of contrasting fur.
The woman who can afford to wear furs
can also afford to wear the proper sort of a.