The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-10-31

WOMAN'S WORLD.

scanS ware enthusiastic over French fash
ions. the demand was almost exciuslveiy
for CRATES and fireplaces that Were COPIED
from French palaces and chateaux; now,
however. a strong reaction has set IN N
favor of the English mode, and you cannot
achieve anything more admirable in mouse
decoration than to have your chimney
piece copied from Hampton Court, Hau-
don Hall or Dalkeith Castle, and IN ms
North Carolina home Mr.. George van
derbilt is credited with having been the
first person to recognize the superlorlty y
the English method in BUILDING frepiaces'
The chimney-piece and fittings IN the
library of Biltmore are patterned, IN many
respects, after the one in the library OF an
old Scotch castle, and the dogs that up
hold the giant logs in this stately room
stand nearly five feet high. They were
designed and east in bronze in TINS couh-
try. but every Americtn cannot aIloro
either the trouble or the expense
of burning seasoned logs, and IN
all the newly. done-over city houses
the CRATE is still the thing Around
the hub, dog, or basket CRATE IS
built a mantel, or an lnglenooA'
or the CRATE is made to simulate the
onen mouth of a giant Dutch stove.
ODE4L4 4Oo%t - - -,
The ingle-nook or settle was originally
an English invention, but the present
taste is for a deal of Flemish decoration
and the interior architect confines thls
comfortable species of fireside to halls or
libraries. Carried out according to the
hest authority. it must be done in mahog-
any and consist of a low benched trestle
seat against a panelled dado, and above
the small paned windows, each section OF
which should awe one square of colored
glass. The glass p~rettily displays either
the initials or coat of arms of the owner
Of the house, or sometimes, with more OF
iginality, a chosen totem.
If the ingle-nook is used as a sort OIL
l~ounging and smoking corner for the head
of the house, the colored centrai siesses
show fanciful calumets, magnificent meer-
shaums and briar woods crossed. In the
goidng district grouped clubs and Scotch
thistles are seen, and the complete lngle-
nook has shelves for sporting books,
lockers under the seat for cordial ana
brandy bottles, a cupboard for cigars ana
cigarettes, and a smoking table. Ihe ia
cobean design, showing the pleasures Oh
the chase as pursued in the day OF klng
James, and similar tapestry is hung IN the
open frame work that incloses the ingie-
nook.
Then, as to the hearth itself, green
Dutch tiles form the actual surround,
while a large old style serving basket OF
black iron holds the Goals over a step oil
rich red Welsh bricks. Gray stone. lett
plain hewn, supplies the jambs and man
tle-piece, and over the suspended basket
juts out a. hood of red tiles to match the
brick hearth.
Every one doesn't know how to make q
belt, as simple as it seems.
Satin ribbon is often used, which is an
artistic mistake, because the material IS
too stiff to fold itself easily into the figure.
Whatever else a woman wants about
her gown, she wants an arrangement
which makes the waist look suppliant.
A man expresses it by saying: I do so
like a woman's figure where the waist
isn't attached One wants the. belt line
to curve in, then out. To be an integral
part of the body, not a distinct shape that
is brought out or accumulated by a stiiT
material. make the line of the waist
too Significantly says an artist rs 10
hear the thumb always in a scale Any
musician will understand how comprehen-
sive this is.
But it is a mistake the majority of wo-
men make. They wear satin ribbon h
doesn't fold well, satin feather that doesn't
yield, boned girdles that are too ungainly
in their shape.
A woman who knows how win make her
belt of something plastic and soft, thai
folds and fits and sways into the curves
that swing down from the rios. BY this
she also reduces the seeming size of her
waist.
1 have found taffeta silk cut on the bias
and securely stitched, say three times,
about the edges the most graceful and
satisfactory of belts.
They follow every undulation of the
waist. they give with every movement of
the body and make the dividing line be-
tween the skirt and bodice a graceful part
of the costume, a melting from one into
the other, as it were, and not a noticeable
line of division.
This explanation is intended to put into
a system that Others may follow what
every dressmaker of taste knows full well.
She knows that there is no more beautiful
curve in a woman's body than that of the
waist. 1t battles artists, defies imitation,
is the QulnleSSelce Oh grace anu poSS-
when it is good.
Scthe costumers endeavor to make it or
develop or ~accentuate it, and they know
that nothing so destroys all hope as an
ungainly belt, one hat is not suppliant,
that does not melt into the gown.
This season has done a great deal to
teach women that art. Leather belts have
become almost obsolete. OF all the rib
bons, taffeta is the best for the purpose.
We use what we want nowadays, and
then throw it aside.
Those, however, in the past lave taken
care of what has been handed down to
them, will have their reward, especially
as regards canoes and coral.
TIL old fashioned cameo bracelets,
neckiets, brooches and buttons can be
turned to most profitable account, and
those possessing coral necklaces of small
long beads closely strung together, will
nave an opportunity of wearing them.
They are so much smarter a the
strings of colored glass which are coming
In.
In the later part. of the last century
semi-circular combs mounted in gold were
worn as c%oronets; these are now MOUNTED
two together, one above the other, and are
a most desirable accompaniment to the
twists of hair out Of which a bunch OF
loose curls emerge.