The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-08-28

tumn garments. However beau
u y tiful her summer clothes may
have seemed to her three
months ago, they are now old and dowdy.
The stiffening has come out of the chiffon;
null is lifeless; feathers have grown
straight, and the blush is off the June
rose.
The first change which woman makes
In her wardrobe in the fall is invariably
In the line Of hats. The white sailor is
taken OFF and put away, and the darker
hat with its heavier trimming is put on
1t is claimed that the hats of the season
are made only to grace the windows or
the milliner shops; but this, my friend,
the milliner, tells me is untrue this sea-
son, for the early hats are 10 be put on
and worn
The new fall hats. to be sure, are freak
ish. No one will deny this. 1t Is realiy
astonishing to note the different ways IN
which they are turned and bent. struck
by lightning" is the term by which Aunt
Samantha from the country might speak
OF some of the shapes, so odd are they.
If l were asked to name the most popu-
lar shape for an autumn hat, L should
say the cooked shape. Hats are cooked
over one eye; cooked over the nose;
knocked back over the crown of the
head; put on all a-tilt until you wonder
how the back is distinguished from the
front. To avoid error my friend, the
mAliner, who sold $40 Tam hat, in ad
vance of the season, placed great rhine
stone button high in the front.
There, my dear" said she to the pur-
chaser, remember that the rhinestone
button must be directly over your left
eye. When you put on the hat set the
button over your left eye and the hat
will be on straight
. SO the purchaser pinned the hat on
rakish. sideways. and a-tilt. The back
was so high that It was almost perpen
dicular. 1t was supported with many
'chrysanthemums in the rear. but the
front was low over the forehead. Folds
of velvet with queer, trailing plumes
:. trimmed the soft, Tam-like crown. The
whole thing was charming medley, but
TO keep it on straight the rhinestone but
: ton set proudly above the left eye
= Another style hat is what my friend, the
witty Miss Chic, called IAN English walk
scribed by her was of white straw with
curious dashes of black running through
. order. but the other side was cooked and
caught with bird of Paradise plume5
= which waved over the top Of the hat.
Under the brtm there was a double bow
OF velvet pinned with rhinestones, and
there We're velvet bows at the back.
The English walking hat in some shape
OF. other will always be worn. 1t is So
ones it lends graS which males them
Dark brown straw English walking hats
are very fashionable, trimmed with green
birds and bright purple violets. The back
OF, the hat is slightly raised to give it a
tilt over the nose. This hat can be worn
straight; and indeed the English walk
Ing hat is more becoming if worn conven-
tiOnally.
One OF the most curious hats I have
seen was something on the style of an
English walking hat with a crown built
UP very high. Crowns will be built up
this winter in most surprising fashion.
!. This crown was originally no higher than
=. sailor hat, but by means of embossed
velvet, which was carried round and
round the crown, 1t was. raised until 1t
stood almost as tail as a mans hat. To
Z a. u
reared at one sue to proudly wave over
the. head of the wearer. These fan
feathers are so eccentric that one can
hardly recommend them to persons who
will have only one hat. but where novel
ty is desired, instead of wearing quilts,
the fan feather is most decorative.
Ostrich plumes will also be a great
deal worn this season. But alas, for
the pocket book Of the wearer they will
be extremely expensive. Plumes as long
as. your arm are exhibited in the shop
windows. and marked at startling prices.
buy, two cheap feathers and fasten them
together so as to make one long sweep
ing plume. This you can drape over
your ear IN good century-ago fashion or
you can stand it at one side of your
head
Ostrich feathers will be used in all
colors, although the preference is for
black and white. The pale shades, such
and the great array of pale yellows will
all be conspicuous in the seasons trim
:: They say that It is not difficult to dye
feathers and that the old light plumes.
feathers. tips aigrettes and other bird
DECORATIONS can be dipped in dye and
made a beautiful dark green, dark brown.
. steel or black. as fancy may dictate. The
secret of dyeing, however, is such COM
pick one that many fail to learn it. The
: dye pot should be filed To the brim with
the dye stuff. Then the feathers can be
plunged IN one after another. It is ruin
Gus to add water to the dye after the
goods are in the dye pot. This is what
gives the streaks so often seen in home
dyed goods.
Just now, when the seasons hats are so
odd. It is not impossible to take the sum
Tner hat and make 1t a winter one by the
free use of the ever available dye pot
The straw should be thoroughly brushed
and. cleaned. If 1t is white, 1t should be
water. After every possible speck or stain
has. been removed it can receive its coat
'aof dye. Remember that every blemish
comes to the surface in dyeing, and that
goods are much stained.
- They say that winter hats are to be ex-
pensiye on account of the great amount
: of trimmingFthat will be used upon them.
1t will not be a winter Of great simplicity
but one in which feathers and plurnes and
velvet and ribbon are used with lavish
=. For economy's sake It might be said
:: that where trimming is used IN great pro-
- fusion II need not be so fine For exam
pie the silk ruching which is so popular
breadth Of old silk nicely washed and
ironed and cut In strips. Have the ruch-
ing double and as full as possible. This
makes a very acceptable trimming for the
front or the side of a hat If the crown
be tall and straight 1T can be set entirely
around the crown.
The small turban OF last winter with
its low crown can be built up with
E