The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1898-11-07
N THE INTERIOR OF LUlOh.
A RAILWAY TRIP FROM MANILA
INTO THE COUNTRY.
The Island's Extraordinary Beauty
and Fertility and Agreeable
Clfmate-Native Habits Aguin.

Broadly speaking. the first third Of the
Inc runs through purely rice-producing
district, the second third through sugar
cane country. and the last part through
a most tropica: territory, where cocoanut
palms are very abundant, some coffee IL
grown. ard peanuts and other minor prod
.icts OF the soil are Cultivated. For the
larger extent Of the line watercourses are
abundant, and in only one place. short
distance from Tariac. one OF the mos: i'm
porsant towns through which the railway
passes, Is there any high ground touched,
and here for only mile or two, where
there are few slight grades and a single
cutting through a stratum of volcanic
stone
Abou, O'Clock n the afternoon we
reached the goods station at Bautista, a
lttie village near TIM town OF Bayanban.
mere Is situated large rice mill belong
Ing TO the firm Of Smith, Bell & Co, and
In the house of Mr.. Clarke, the manager.
we were to pass the night. The huge cor
rugaied iron structure. With its ugly Chin
ney and adjacent godowns. is the principal
feature OF the landscape. and dominates
with irritating ug.iness the long struggling
village Of native huts which are huddied
together near rapid but muddy stream.
The country all around is most fertile and
a large part of the good land is under dill
gent cultivation. Here. in the heart OF the
lnsurgent territory, We had an excellent
opportunity OF studying the life OF the ma
turmoil of the revolution
The Peasant In the Interior.
Here the peasant bears all the marks OF
rura! tlller OF the soil. The type is
stronger, trifie coarser, and more brutal
tnan Is met with in the Eeighborhood of
Manila. and there is a notable mixture
or chinese blood in the race. He Is in
dustrious. and, up to certain point pos
sesses the quick. keen intelligence Of the
true Oriental. The prominent character
istics Of his nature make him an excel
lent and capable workman. He learns
easily. has distinct talents for mechanical
work, and in his love for music. in his pre-
kzN - tntyr,
his own. and III his trading instincts re-
minds one Of a little gypsy of Europe. The
women at least those of pure Indian stock,
are often decidedly come.y: They have
wide, oval face, rather fiat profile with
well-formed bat broad nose fine cut
mouth with excellent teeth. wel-set, dark
chin. and a low forehead. from which the
sleek black hair Is drawn tightly back and
twisted into simple knot.
Their dress is very simple. and consists
OF petticoat of bright colored stuff with
an overskirt OF dark color made of rec
tangular piece OF cotton stuff wound round
and tucked in at the waist in the same
way that one fastens a towel in Turkish
bath. A white cotton cheraise, low-necked
and short -sleeved. covers the body, and
Jacket Of the poeshe
pima cloth. supplemented In full dress by
large kerchef of the same material.
them; indeed. in the provinces we visited
there were few or no personal decorations
to be seen except few rings and bangles.
The men dress according to their station.
the lahorers often wearing all day long IN
the hot sun nothing more than breech-
cloth. and those in the villages affecting
Of white cotton Both men and women
habituaiiy go barefooted. but the former
often make use OF wooden clogs. particu-
ary III wet bst are never
the head than the bas!., IS or bundles they
carry with exquisite grace and ease. but
of headgear as far as the exaggerated
umhrella-ke palm-leaf disks which the
coolies wear
The native house of the common type is
a small structure built entirely Of bamboo.
and matched with palm leaves ingeniously
folded over bits OF stick and tied to the
rafters by rattan. The caves are broad,
and the window openings which are limo
cent of glass or of the shell easement in
use in the better class of houses. are pro-
xded with psmeaS shutters hing at the
terror from the sun and shedding the
rain. A. night. all are closed up tightly.
and the furniture contests chiefly of sleep
ing mats. pillows and few wicker stools,
perhaps. The simplest and most primitive
utensils are in use IN the kitchen. The
with projecting knucl les 10 hold the cook
ing vessel Frequently this simple dwell
ine-which is. indeed. a rule, as clean
and tidy as constant scrubbing can make
It's extended. according TO the taste or
ingenuity of the owner. into quite an elab-
orate arrangeJmen; OF 2, platforms. little
ture Is built around tail posts, which. as is
the case with all houses here. even with
the elaborate and expensive bungalows. are
firmly fixed in the ground and extend to
the wall-piate supporting the rafters. The
living and s.eeping rooms are as | have
before remarked. raised I'VE or six feet
above the ground. a custom which pre-
walls IN all the architecture here. Some
times the space under the house Is Enclosed
with mats. but Il Is oftener left open and
is used a s;orehouse FIR the large earth
en- water Jars and the great. fiat washtubs
followed out Of large block of wood.
Cleanliness of the People.
One thing always strikes even the casual
observer. and that is the cleanliness OF the
Eieopie. They arr always bathing and
washing. anG 1t Is the rarest thing 10 see
soled garments Even the heggars are
clean Il is in consequence of these com
pests OF insect life are met with. Although
/ 1 have during my two moaths stay in the
country slept in all SORTS OF PAGES. from
the meanest hut OF the peasant To the
soternor-generals palace. / have never
! had my rest disturbed ny anything more
annoying than mossquitoes. which are mild
ana NnenterTtislng enough compared
with the breed wl.:ch in.ests most places
IN America and many resorts in Europe.
The writer's on the Philippines have al
most unanimously declared the country 10
be the home OF ali sorts OF insects and
reptiles which make life hurdensome. But
tie soon mas stilti ttS Innocent little ilZ
ards which run over the walls are engaged
III catching flies and mosquitoes, that the
great beetles are harmless as grassnoppers.
ard that there i here. indeed A remark
able immunity from the petty annoyanctss
which one expects 10 ma IN a sojourn in
the tropics
bUt 10 return TO our excursion There
assembled at the dinner not only our party
/ but quite number Of natives. men ard
women residents az the village whose per-
feet dece;um. and gentle, simple manners
quite cAptlyated IT,. They spoke Spanish
WIN case and Tiueney. and. the women at
least. had Inc grace OF the Cas-
tilaHs. An oTChes tTa Of zen native mus
! clans. who played with skill and taste all
sorts 81 classic music and encouraged Us
- join II t6e dance which naturally tol-
lowed. Mas i surprise not 10 say de-
light When the party broke Up and the
guests from the village aud he orchestra
stroNed away scrons he lawn IN the clear
soft moonlight staring as they went a
fascinating native aiF The cfSecr VAS SIM
! Ply enchanting. aiN W. aun.- over the bah
couy aad Watched the bite figures dis
appear among the palms An& listened 10
The vanishing strains %. ne sons 8ut!i IL
became 50 faint that II drowned by
the chipping q he cyickstS and the shr.ll
n ~ Faa sv.a FRI