The record-union., 1898-11-20

quire durability and warmth, the WOOL
dress of some description is the better
choice. A very small part of the aver
age woman's life is spent in the bravery
of silk attire. Her easy gowns, her
tailor costumes for the street and car
riage, her outing, bathing, tennis,
cycling and yachting suits are all mucn
more serviceable when made of wool.
This season the yellow toilets, as
rule, seem to be decidedly yellow, rather
than the dainty honeysuckle and prim-
rose tintings The brilliant Marechal
Neil yellow, the orange, and military
gold-yellow shades are especially fav-
ored, and these dyes in satin, matelasse,
or the lighter brocades and corded silks
are garnished with opal and pearl trim
mings. white lace frills and appliques;
or they are made true Spanish gowns
by an effective trimming of black chem
lille embroideries, cut jet ornaments, or
black lace.
On some of the rich dark costumes
for the winter are arranged yokes OF
silk applique, with revers of seal, mink
astrakhan, chinchilla, otter, or other
dark fur beyond. Bands of the appli-
que are placed on the skirt en- sautolr
being much lower in front and at the
back, and rising in graceful curves at
each side The close coat-sleeves are
finished with cuffs that flare over the
top of the hand, and are covered with
applique work, and edged, like the
Medici collar, with a narrow band OF
fur.
The princesse dress of to-day has
undergone great transformations. Often
imported models only the back is a
princesse model, and the front is cut IN
the form. of a bodice and yoke, bolero,
a cutaway Louis XIV. coat, etc. An
other fashionable style is the redingote
princesse. opening in long peplum
points or panels over a skirt OF con-
trasting material. Certainly the prln-
-cesse dress of to-day cannot be called
simple style of gown; it entails sucn
elaborate processes in the way OF won
derful fitting, adjusting and decoration
and on many gowns the trimming on
the pointed waist exactly joins that up
on the skirt front, producing prlh-
tcesse effect that is at once graceful ana
becoming, especially to full figures, the
continuous lines from shoulder to Snlrt-
hem producing a long, slender effect.
Dark. rich plum colors of reddish
cast are highly favored among winter
tailor costumes of cloth. A hat, bon
net or toque and muff of velvet OF a
matching shade, with small fur trim
mings and a cluster of short full ostrich
CT "A
brown velvet Russian blouse can be
remodeled by cutting it down in the
neck. adding turn down revers of dark
mink, and inserting a guimpe OF cream
colored or pale old rose satin, brocad-
ed with brown leaves or other figures.
Add TO the fiaring cuffs a narrow mink
roll to the edges and line with brocade.
Seven-eighths, or, at the greatest, one
yard of brocade or matelasse will an
swer, and this small addition and
change will modernize and greatly en-
hance the effect of the last winter
garment.
Among the countless modes in French
dress skirts, designed to suit every
form and fancy, is distinctive style
which is nodded very closely to the
hips, and has invisible box plaits at the
back, producing necessary fullness on
the under side, but leaving the upper
portion of the skirt like the severest
riding habit, with neither gathers,
folds nor plaits en- evidence. Very mar
row at the top, the skirt gradually ex-
pands in bell style, sweeping outward
with artistic grace. At the back it is
fastened with a number of invisible
hooks, or else there is a visible double
row of small buttons.
The odd and pretty combination of
orange and gray, so becoming to many
women and SO popular the last season,
has been carried into the domain of ele-
CANT evening dress, where it has gained
still greater vogue and success. Pale
mauve and turquoise blue is another
favorite combination of colors. In dress
millinery it is decidedly popular, SO also
black and peach color, lghtened with
a touch of white or cream in the form
of lace, aigrettes or feather tips. Au-
tumn foliage is likewise used in greens,
russets and brilliant red, and this sea-
son on black or dark green velvet
toques, English walking hats or shep-
herdess models, the brilliant hued ber-
ries of the mountain ash are very ef-
fectively used in combination with
either orange or deep petunia. satin or
velvet Satin is made great use of
this autumn in lining long, narrow
loops and pointed ends of velvet that
are machine stitched in silk on their
extreme edges.
A very popular half cape cut like an
| immense Charles TX. collar, and ap-
piled to both redingote and princesse
dresses is much used on imported mod
| els from both Paris and London. IT
looks like large revers points in front
| and like g cape collar pushed down on
| the shoulders in the back and on the
sides Sometimes the ends of the cape
| terminate in short points in front, but
very often the ends are elongated and
arranged en- jabot. These accessories
| IN fur or velvet are admirable for i'm
parting warmth to a street costume
that is made to wear without wrap
| Save money by buying your tea and
coffee of J. McMorry, 531 NJ.