Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-04-09
FOR P-TO-DATE WOMEN
Tailor Smartness and Style in Canvas and
Duck Dresses
Summer Gowns I'm Lace-Trfmmed Or
CANDIES and Muslins, With
Pointed FIOunces.
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, April z, 1895
Last year the most sensible and complete
summer gown was OF duck or cotton can
vas, made with plain skirt and Elton or
blazer jacket, with shirt waist Of contrast
iLg color. This summer we are to go a step
further, and the utility gown is of canvas,
duck or piQue, and consists of shirt waist
with plain skirt of the same material. The
models of these gowns which have been
displayed so far are marvels of smartness,
plainness and neatness. The skirt is al
ways plain when this heavy Gotten ma
tertal Is used, but If one chooses to indulge
In Bingham for a gown of this sort a
fiounce, either circular or pointed, may
be added. The shirt waist shows many
variations when 1t has the added dignity Of
skirt of its own TO fall back on. 1t may
be either bloused or plain, with tucks large
ana Few, or small and clustered, or box
plaits.
A fetching model in pale blue canvas
cloth had four box piaits down the front
of the shirt waist, and bloused perceptibly
belt and white piQue hunting stock COM
pleted model Of freshness and cleanliness
A white sailor of rough straw is to be worn
with this gown.
vas The shirt waist in this case was quite
plain. mad no tucks at all and did not
blouse. A red belt and white stock with
red tie and yellow straw sailor hat, with
white band raised slightly above the
crown, and red wings on the left side,
made a charming picture.
These gowns, II Is needless to say, can
be made at home most successfully, and
endless are the beautiful cotton fabrics
which may be used in their composition.
The models described came from one Of
the exclusive shops where these designs
originated, and such a gown, If made
to order there, would cost quite as much
as spring gown Of silk. But in these
days of most perfect tailor patterns in
shirt waist and skirts the utility gown
and the more dainty summer gown should
be made at home. They will have an in
dividuality not to be acquired in any other
way.
OF course, the shirt waist gown and
skirt being the latest have somewhat
eclipsed the fame of cotton blazer and
Elton suits, But these very useful and suit
able gowns will still be much worn. They
are extremely becoming to slender peo-
pie. An especially smart one of white
P.que has double-breasted jacket, with
turned-back lapels of white embroidery
The jacket blouses slightly and is finished
at the waist by belt of embroidery. Most
Of the jackets iilis spring which are belted
at the waist line dispense with the little
skirt or fiounce below the belt, which was
such a feature of the winter coats Suits
of white linen or duck or of brown linen,
with turn-back lapels covered with white
embroidery, will also be worn.
Last summer one of the distressing sights
was suits Of blue or brown linen or sone
even heavier cotton not properly Numbered.
1t does seem almost needless to say that
cotton and linen in the heavier weaves
must have starch in the jacket, and must
be sent at once 10 a laundry as soon as
wrinkles appear. If women would only
emulate the ways of men when they wear
white duck or crash, many dowdy-looking
gowns would he greatly improved.
Dainty Organdie Gowns.
When We turn to diaphanous summer ma
terials the field of choice is bewilderingiy
wide. Even more than last year is a silk
slip considered necessary for lining to
organdie gowns. Fortunately for those
whose purses forbid silk Innings by the
wholesale, there are many excellent lin
IL gs on the market this year which have
a soft, bright finish. These Innings come
in all the colors OF the rainbow. and are
comparatively inexpensive. Another very
good device is to use ones drop skirt for
several gowns. For instance, IL one IS
going to indulge in a silk-lined gown this
spring 1t will, of course, be made with
drop skirt. Have this lining separate at
the waist as well as at the foot of the
skirt. That is. do not have the lining put
into the same band with the outside skirt.
is all that will be reeded for low-necked
slip.
The skirt ruffled from hem to waist is
the most summary md graceful OF all, and
the one most suited to soft, clinging fab
RIGS. The ruffles may be narrow, and there
may be very many OF them, or they may
be widened into flcunces. and then it will
take only three or four to make the skirt.
Whatever is chosen, 1t is safe to say that
at least one or two summer gowns should
be made in this way, unless one is con-
scious of tipping the scales at point
which makes the addition OF furbelows to
a gown an unbecoming superhuity.
The imported organizes have almost all
of them insertions OF Valenciennes lace.
Many of them have turn-back lapels, with
square points. which remind one Of a lace
and full, soft white null
points. An especially beautiful model has
a fchu c)rsage over this soft front. Across
flounce Of the fichu falls over the shoulder
in most graceful way. The skirt of this
gown has a deep 1ounce midway toward
the back. Two rows Of lace insertion are
at the head Of the flounce. and two go
from waist to hem on each side OF the
skirt. This lateral effect counteracts the
tendency Of founced skirt to diminish the
height of the wearer. The sleeves, as well
each If 4 heavier material than organdie
is used for a summer gown Of this sort,
embroidery instead Of lace should be used
for insertion.
rlOunceb ARE FOtnte0.
The pointed houpces which have lately
in both cotton and summer silk
gowns are exceedingly smart, and can be |
used in most summer n aterials. They are
excessively graceful. but require to be
made with great care. The foundation OF
this pointed nounce is seven gored skirt.
which fits very closely about the hips. The
hcunce Is very wide. and Is put ON to an
apron front, very sharply pointed I'm front.
The hounce Is also sharply pointed, and |
full enough to ripple. 1t slopes upward. of |
course, reaching the waist line in the
back, where 1t ends In a slight Vatican
paait effect. A general description gives no |
idea of the grace of this pointed nounce
effect. It must be seen to be appreciated
The waist, OF this particular gown was
simply made. with full front, a French
back and shoulder caps sitting out stifly
from tight-dtting sieeves
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