The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-06-15
Tie Fashion.

tunes, lain, braidtrim med, bounced.
finished with RI flies, bordered with
linen, lace insertions, or with woke. or
vest and revers of white duck, the skirt
completed by many bias rows of tie
linen piped with the duck. Vestinps
of lighter linen than that used for whole
suits come in basket weaves in red.
green, ecru, cream, etc., with dots or
lines of black, blue, or dark brown.
The Galatea trills are again made into
cycling, boating, and sea-beach morn.
ing suits for women as well as children,
Pink, cream, tan, blue and ecru
pique suits in tailor style, are made
with seven-gored or circular shaped
skirt, which, notwithstanding their IA
mlliar form, are completed by pleat-
ed Norfolk waist. With these are
worn very handsome belts, with trim
mings and buckles of solid silver or
gold fligree. Again, there are suits
with short Elton jacket, and blouse
vest of delicately embroidered and
tucked French muffin, or there is a
very smart cutaway, with braid trim
med vest, or one of null over tinted
silk, pink being a favorite color.
The latest French toilets and Co.'S
tunes show the belts of ribbon, velvet.
satin MORE, or other fabric, each a
mere line of the goods about the waist:
quite opposite in effect from the crush
girdles and very deep centuries of a
year ago.
Many of the skirts of dresses worn
last summer can be given the REQUIRED
additional length of the present season,
by removing the skirt-binding, and add
ing the niece ssary number of inches to
the foot of the skirt all around, by piec-
ing ii down with skirt-hning, then COW
ering this with the dress goods. Ma
chine-stitch this to make it firm: re-
bind, then cover the whole with num-
Der of overlapping frills of goods,
matching or contrasting with the skirt
fabric, as is preferred. Care must be
taken in piecing, to use curving, not
straight strips of the goods.
Guimpe and yoke effects increase
daily, and each new dressy summer
gown or costume that appears discloses
something novel, dainty and charming
in these graceful accessories of the
bodice. The familiar guimpes and
yokes of brocade, velvet and tucked
silk are reinforced by those of rich
guipure or Venetian net or lace, laid
over lustrous satin; by those of en-
broidered linen lawn, shirred batiste,
gathered India null crossed with finest
insertion bands in lattice or diamond
patterns, or by these same pretty ef-
fects on white China silk merely laid
in fine lingerie tucks with dainty lines
of white silk brier stitching between. 4
The fancy silk grenadines are lovely
this year, as indeed are all the new
grenadines, and never was there such
bewildering variety. The silk net
gowns from famous French ateliers all
show different treatment of this ele-
CANT diaphanous textile. At one noted
house 1t is black in princesse form,
over slip of cherry-red MORE. At an
other it forms lovely black-and-white
melange-the foundation ivory satin,
with body decorations of white crepe
lisse almost hidden by black guipure
lace sprays and insertion. From Mai
son Weille comes rare gown of black
net, encrusted all over the bodice and
skirt with applied designs of bow.knots.
Empire garlands, arabesques, and
scrolls of cut-jet bevels, sequins, and
large jet spangles are used. The col
lar and girdle are of brilliant orange
velvet, and the gown is made up over
nasturtium satin.
The parasols this year are elaborate,
and the colorings, combinations, and
new effects in frilling, tucking, inserted
Vandykes of richest lace, and accord
ion-pleatings are similarly marvellous.
The richest and heaviest materials are
N To hn
diaphanous and perishable. And very
many fabrics which In times past were
never thought of in the creation of
parasol are now brought into promi-
nent use. The size and shape Of this
seasons models are varied somewhat
from those fashionable year ago, aud
the handles of expensive varieties are
exquisite works of art There are now
on exhibition en- tout cas- of brocade,
satin, MORE, faille, taffeta, foulard,
crepe de chimes, crepe lisse, chiffon,
grenadine, India null, Swiss muslin,
grass-cloth, pongee, surah, and fancy
silk-plain, shot, plaided, checked, COIN
dotted, embroidered, and striped. Rib
bod, lace, net, velvet, silk-wrought
mousseline de sole, pleated chiffon
ruches, and elegant guipure appliques
are among the trimmings used for
these various styles. So much fancy
and decoration prevail that the once
handsome plain silk parasol is now rele-
gated to the realm of sun umbrellas.
Never in all its long history, from the
days of Garibaldi until the present mo-
ment, has the blouse-waist been such
an ornate garment. These bodices are
this season 30 covered with trimming
of every description that the founda-
ton is hardly visible. Some are yelled
front and back, with a diamond.pat-
termed network of silk chenille; others
have fichu drapery, with spreading
frills at the extreme edge. Some very
charming shot silk waists in pearl gray
and rose-color, or silver and ciel blue,
are made with a second over-waist Of
embroidered lisse, or silk net, which
delicately wells but does not hide, the
beauty of the waist beneath. Misty
gray tulle is draped over seashell-pink
satin or taffeta on blouses crossed in
trellis patterns with lines of velvet rib
bon; and white mousseline de sole
waists over white satin are garnished
all over with very elegant applique
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