Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-07-09
CROSSING CHILKOOT PASS
Some Of the Joys and Sorrows Of Life in the
Xlondike.
In May the Days Were Warm, but the
Nights Were CoId-Prevt-
sions Plentiful. ia
Special Correspondence Of The Evening star.

| N~-NANA@ DEN y FL 4, N W. l., June l. 1870
| When the adventurous pilgrim to the
Yukon has climbed the thousand icy steps
| OF that precipitous stairway which com-
! pletes the final ascent TO the summit of
| Chilkoot Pass, he has reached line which
| rot only divides the flow of waters and the
| domains OF nations. but where the condi-
TONS, interests and ambitions of the people
| appear to change. The busy world, the
| march OF nations and the fortunes of war
| seem to be instinctively oonfided 10 those
| who remain within the range of civilization
| and its marvellous facilities for transporta-
| ton and communication. The Yukoncr is
not seeking the glory of war, but the glitter
| of gold: he does not lack patriotism but
| the facilities for displaying that splendid
virtue are woefully lacking. Battles may
be lost or won-he cannot change their
course, he does not even know the result
for days and even weeks after the roar of
the great cannors has ceased and the dead
and wounded anXiously numbered. A few
papers with the latest news reach Camp
at irregular Intervals, and although from
eight TO ten days old they are eagerly snap
ped up at - cents each. The latest paper
l have seen at this writing was one issued
! at Seattle on May -. After leaving Sheep
Camp there is only a monthly mail sxcept
| by private carrier.
Hence it is that the YulSoner accepts with
more or less gratitude whatever aews he
can obtain from home and the war, but his
energies are expended in the construction
of his boat; his affections are centcred apon
! her symmetry and sailing virtues, and his
ambitions and hopes carry him in his day
dreams TO far OF, undiscovered country,
where there are nuggets galore, and thence
back to home Of plenty and unaloyed
| happiness.
Insure Industry.
Such visions yield contentment and in
sure industry. and thus it is that in these
long arctic days, which extend from 2
O'Clock in the morning till 10 o'clock at
| night, L hear the incessant sound Of ham,
mer and saw. Labor with its hundred
hands seems not only to knock at the
golden gates of the morning" but also TO
be pinnfng down the curtains OF the abbre-
waited night
These are the boat builders In the tent
cities OF Iinderman and Bennett and in
the little camps which line the shores the
great army of klondike crusaders are
building boats, boats by the hundreds-yes.
thousands.
Each camp is a shipyard, and each tenn
porary habtation has its own boat in
more or less advanced stage of completion.
1t is wonderful sght-unique, interesting,
aggressive
In company with my son l am undertnk-
ing the trip to Circle in a stanch Peterhoro'
canoe. Being solictous lest our ship
might be harmed in transit. undertook
to sled it from Chilkoot Summit TO the fSot
of Long lake. The night OF May is We
passed on the summit, and the next mora
ing shipped our outfit by dog team, and
started in binding snow storm. We
shall not soon forget the varying fortunes
with which We proceeded down the steep
trail We slid, and pitched and rolled la
the abundant snow, but finally emerged in
good order upon the frozen surface OF
Crater lake, with the sun shining brightly
and a brisk north breeze. We are much at
tached to our canoe and approaching a
| good thing We proceeded to push it along
over Crater lake, Deep lake and Long
| lake. From the canyon at the foot Of
| Long lake We had it carried over the sum-
mer trail-a very rugged one-and placed in
| the waters of Lake Linderman.
Crossing ChiIkoot Pass.
Many of US who are accustomed to noun
tains and mountain climbing would regard
| it an exciting and exhilarating exercise to
cross the Chilkoot Pass, uniacumbered.
a bright day, but when the tempest shrieks
and the snow blinds and the frosts scar the
| boldest and hardest are driven back. The
pass has not been SO formidable for the
Yukoner to cross in person, but many have
| endured untold hardships in transporting
| their supplies between Dyea and Lake
Lnderman. Such penance is no longer nee
| essary. A tram or cable is now in opera
ton from Canyon City to the summit, nine
miles, and freight is being rapidly trans
ported from Dyea to the pass at a cost
OF only three and one-half cents per pound.
1t may be of interest to mention the
fact that supplies are now retailing in
Dyea and Skagway at very reasonable
prices. For ham and bacon l paid Is cents
per pound; butter, 80 cents; flour, 81 cents;
dried fruits, 10 cents, excepting raspberries,
which were % cents; sugar, cents, DC.
l paid s. for yukon" stove. which
cocks and bakes quickly. and so We are
comfortable and well-fed in camp.
Upon my arrival at Lake Linderman on
May p persons were still crossing on the
ice to Bennett, though il was considered
dangerous. A week later the ice was all
broken up Then came a strong south
wind, and in two days every piece Of ice
had oeen swept out of Linderman ard to
the lower end of Bennett The celebrity
with which this ice was disposed of was
amazing to the tenderfoot.
Since leaving the summit the weather
has been delightful each day, excepting an
occasional high wind, after the sun has
been so persistent as to render a coat
burden and the shade grateful. But the
nights are cool, and sometimes cold. AL
though sleeping in a good tent, upon a
raised bunk, and with ample blankets, /
ind a night wardrobe very necessary. For
cold night L don suit of heavy under
clothing, buckskin shirt, a sweater and
long flannel night robe, which few gar
ments, together with wooden socks and a
wool cap, serve well to aid me in my con-
tests with old Jack Frost.
Mosses and Insects.
1 believe Alaska produces the most beau
tiful variety of MOSES in the world.
have only seen two real flowers which 1
plucked last Sunday. Birds are few in
number and species, but there is one va
rety with very sweet whistle in three
notes. Insects are few, and although L
have seen specimens of the elephantine
Yukon mosquito. none has yet attempted
any undue familiarity
A humble bee flew into my tent the other
day, which l at once undertook to capture
a specimen. l knocked il down with
saw tread on it gently, drowned it three
times in cup of water. and then laid IL
out log to dry. When Event after IL
the bird had flown The Smithsonian missed
a rare specimen, and am able TO certify
not only that there are bees in this section
in May, but that they represent very
hardy race.
The canyon through which the waters
from Lake Ldnderman flow into Lake Ben
nett is narrow, rugged and tortuous, and
the current is very swift These rapids
the most dangerous of any on the course
down the Yukon. and few take chances in
running them. Some let their boats down
with ropes, but few risk both boat and
life in the wild run. One of the great
advantages of canoe Is that il can be
readily carried by these dangerous places