Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1898-07-30

over the country with the Bolivian
mails. ~ seemed 20 me when
,bn,,vbt OF it rather strange that tha
,'osini onlciuis should consent to take
,,y heavy trunks, but through my
n,gyetpfsr conuection0 ! have aYmo-
limos boon favored officially and ace
.,"t,l it na n fact. fear Visions of
aforlous red Concord vehicle. with
roeftnsn In Bolivian livery. may have
tntU come before my Innocent SOULS
,ve and / know n was with conscious
pride thnt / told my friends az La paz
mat was going 10 travel with the
malls. noticed that some Of them
rather fmucd OF the Idea. and thut
ntbrrs scsmcd 10 niiy rather than nd.
miro. This at the time | attributed
ip irnloay. envy or Ignorance. ] know
,,hnt tho Bolivian mail coach IH
mad my first sight ~ Il ut o O'Clock
nf tho morning ~ my starting. II
,y,a the hnrgufc warun or the stage,
and tho only set ON u was the One
with mo driver II was Ia fact.
skeleton wagon on springs. Ih' bed
was 30 far ~ IN the alt that you could
almost walk under 20 without STOPPING.
The wagon box was not over sis inchcr
hiFh. and how v wan supposed thht
IA ton aud n half ~ mail and trunks
could be- nut into II ! could not sao.
1 had my baggage hurried out, ana u
won't IN at the bottom. The other
ploces were piled on top until there
was a mountain " stun ON the wagon.
Il now looked more like q hay wagon
coming to the barn Ia harvest time
than the royal mail A rawhidc rope
was bound round and round the bag-
gage. being run through hooks In the
slides OF the waron-htd, and tha bag
uage was covered with canvas 90 fhicld
n from the rain. ny this time tho
mules were In their places. and ] was
told 10 climb TO my sent beside the
driver 10 was nt least seven or eight
feet above the ground. and the soft
side Of the board wna the only cushion.
until / improviscd another ~ some
blankets. The coach rode. however.
very comfortably. and the springs
were 10 good as nLy have even tried
4 great discomfort was the lack Of
cover when II rainod aud showed 40
~ ala several times during the journey
AZ such times I could only put ON my
waterproof ana my Bolivian cap. This
last ~ knitted affnir. covering the
head and face. with holes for the eyes
noss and mouth. II makes one look
actually deyillsh. hut u Il such a comfort
that II should b. adopted for winter
travelling and slcigh.ridlng In our
country.
BOLIVIAN coAcHAtEN AND THE
ANDEAN MULE.
My ooaohmon In livery were In fact
Bolivian Chol0H They were half
breeds. cross ~ the spanlards and
the Aymara Indian. and aa cruel a
mixture as YOU VIII ma among the
races. They hnd no sympathy what
ever FOR the mules and their treatment
u than was ~ cruel that ! several
times protested against II. In the iirat
place the harness was twisted out % all
shape. There was not a tug that was
straight ana not "a collar that ~. AH
n result The nocka % the animals
were raw and sore, and this became
worse ~ We went on the gallnp over
The road ! remember one little yellow
mule WIN had lost two patches ~ skin.
each ~ biz a. the palm nf your hand.
from the front OF his shoulders before
he was put Into the harness. 1 object
"a 20 taking him. as there were other
and better mulos In the corral. but he
was hltchod up all the same ana was
given one ~ the hardest places IN the
team. This was just below me. next
to the wagon ana right under the
driver, We started OF on the gnlt1p
but the little fellow soon began to lax
behind, Then the torture began. The
driver cut at him with a whip which !
brought the blood 10 the hide az almost
very place u touched, and the helper. |
VINO ran along with the coach and |
whipped up aie lazy mules picked out |
he little yellow fellow ~ his spcclai |
work We had not gone i've miles be- |
bore the back 90 the mules legs wcr. |
bleeding IN hllf dozen dlneren, |
places, and I could soc that his collar |
VAS red with blood from the Rorea on, |
~ neck From time 90 time I noticed |
mat the driver when h. found his whip. |
ping ana whIttllng failed to stir n,,
ne mules took up o heavy tug with an |
ron chain ana ring az the end OF n and |
attled u. ThlH never failed 90 isghton
he mulca Into Increased spo,l. A. /
he llttlo yellow fellow agaln feii be.
ilnd l found the secret of tho lnaplr.
ng sound " the tug and chain. The
irivor swung the tug about HIS head |
md brought lt down with terrible
hui upon the little mules back. II IL
! wonder II ala not break the bones. for
ne heavy iron chain hi, him on mo
plne. ana the pain must have been In
ense. Tho blow IN this case ana moi
freak the skin, though l saw Hubsr.
lu.ht ones even 70 other mules which
nhde bloody gnrheH IN their backn
We changed mules every ffteen or
wonty miles ana rarely had "a team
nat was not more or less SCARED ma
iloody when We got through.
THE COUNTRY HOTELS OF no.
LIViA.
During the trip had some chance .,
'et a taste Of the country hotels az
tollNla. The stations where we atoppsd
o eat and sleep were more IKE eoo,
tables than hotclA As a ruie ~
mules were housed In The court. "n
which the one-story huts forming ~.
iotel faced. None OF the rooms H..
sindowa and the n0Ors were OF NINA ~,
tone. In some oaaua tho beds We,t
edges Of aun-drlod bricks upon which
matlrena had been laid. The univ
.ght l had was the candle / bronfsh,
WIN mo ana my candloatiek wnt
pot OF meltcd grease which / dronn.,
n the table or "a chair before settint
no candle down. There Were alvv,ys
overall beds In a room ana had roon,
laloa ~ me shape or native nollvlans
N.ly hlEht' before going 10 bed mo
'oIlAn VINO kept the hotel alwav,
20 OF the bed ana dollar for AN, ,np
W started az every morning sn1 vl
ip ! was usually NJ aud ready for -
up OF tea which was made for mo ~
orc leaving. This with a connie
lhculls constitutes the breakfast ~ az
ne hotels nf Bolivia, Our r.,,,,i ~
reaktaat' which we had al II 80.
'clooli, was more like "a dinner -
breakfast n began with a veso,t u1uh
CUP ana followed with two NJ, ~,
iewed dishes. an Of which fairlv s,,,,
. grease The dinner was OF tbe 49,,
fder Before leaving Ia Pas ~,
iten the preonutl0n 20 have n h, n-u
~ w inf NY use on the road. Tbis