The herald., 1898-01-23
GOTHAM FASHIONS ;
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NEW YORK, Jan. 17.-(Specfal Cor
respondence to The Herald.) Happ.
the woman who has purchased lengtl
of plain faced cloth enough to make
skirt and n coat at the sales now goini
on. OF course she must know where {
tailor is to he found who will make i
well. There are many bargains in thes
remnants and such Il costume, complet
ed by a waist made in chine glace silk
will be the correct thing not only fol
spring but cool days and summer
Brown and puce or reddish plum are th'
fashion Just now. The sleeves must b'
small and for the present a fur border
may be lightly sewed to the edge of the
coat and the hem Of the skirt. 1t car
easily be removed later. For the brown
or fawn clothes flame colored velvet
collars are very chic.
In silk there are so many designs safe
to buy that one can scarcely make mis-
take. Brocades with good satin grounds
and single brocaded flowers all over
them are sensible purchases. saw the
other day at sale some delightful bro
catelles, the effect of the pattern pro-
duced by terry weaving in marked con-
trast to the rest of the pattern. They
came in the faintest tilleul green. pearl
white and straw yellow, and would make
lovely gowns for evening wear. In the
summer sales moire velours was sold
at such a low price that we all expect
ed it would go out of fashion, but this
Is not at all the case. 1t is one of the
few cheap stuffs that really looks well
and a good many brides have been mar
ried in it lately.
In Paris bayadere stripes have had q
marked success and in high priced ma
terials we have had them here. Now
however, we may have them in charm
ing little glace silks with the horizontal
stripes in blue and white, pink and
white and other such mixtures. They
will make delightful and inexpensive
dresses for the season of 1885,
Velvets have never been offered at
such small cost and consequently must
have a mixture Of cotton. They do
admirably for tea Jackets and for trim
ming gowns. 1 have just seen a bril-
liant cerise Eton jacket, with wide frills
Of priceless old Valenciennes about four
inches deep. carried down the front and
fastened across Atth pearl and diamond
pins over a full vess of the lightest green
chiffon. 1t was the production of a
clever maid at home, and, exclusive of
the lace, did not cost much over $5. The
cut was after good French model, and
the close fitting sleeves were copied from
the jacket of the Dauphin, the son of
Louis XVI. 1t was slashed on the out
side of the arm and cuff, out of which
issued an abundance of the same lace.
Indeed, this cheaper velvet has great
capabilities, and so has the rich Lyons
velvet. selling at good many of the best
etores at half price, for fear me that
Lyons has occasionally a rather rough
time Of it, still, for soft sheen and beauty
there is nothing like this class of velvet.
It makes up into the most delightful
dresses, trimmed with sable, especially
In royal blues, rich violets and some of
The dark reds; but for the moment there
Is nothing so much in demand as emer-
aid green velvet, whether for coats,
capes, entire dresses or trimmings for
dress. There is, however, a new class
Of velvet under the name of velour
mousseline, which has no stiffening with
= pure silk face and back. This is be-
ing used great deal for sashes and the
like.
SOME BEAUTIFUL TOILETS
Among the many exquisite creations
how being turned out by our swell New
York nlodistes we have selected four for
Illustration. The first toilet is of sea
green China crepe worn over taffeta of
bhe same shade and incrusted with
cream guipure. The slightly trained
bkirt is composed Of tablier and two
yored back breadths. A sash of saffron
eolored mousseline de sole falls in two
pcarf ends on the left side. They are at
tached to the waist under a roseette of
the mousseline upon draped waistband
bf the same tissue. The low corsage is
brnamented with guipure and ruff1es of
white mousselne bordered with black
velvet.
The second toilet of pale blue liberty
Datin has the skirt rufIled with liberty
tatin silk. The sun pleated corsage has
lace insertion.
The third toilet is worn by the young
woman who is evidently urging her
friend who is seated to some act which
may or may not affect the destiny of
hations. 1t is a gown of maize colored
Persian velours encrusted with lace and
brnamented with large brillins.
The seated young woman wears a
gown of white satin covered by a skirt Of
rose colored silk embroidered with white
harguerites. Three separate flowers
tasten the left side of the silk drapery
10 the satin. The large white marguer-
Ete is the fad of the hour used on toilets
Tor evening wear.