The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-05-22
FOR FEMININE READERS
WHITE GOWNS OF ALL MATERIALS
ARE TO BE WORN THIS SUMMER.
To Be Cheerful Is a Duty to Ones
Kind--WOmen's Club Papers Too Dry
and Didactic.-various Suggestions.

| In order to be strictly in the fashion, one
must have fair supply of white dresses
| in her outfit, says the New York Ledger.
1t is scarcely safe to say that they can be
| of almost any material for that statement
would be subject to some criticism. Almost
| all materials, however, can be used with
| notifications and combinations
| There is at the moment fancy for thin
| goods that amounts to a mania, and the
more fragile and Notwithstanding the fabric
is the more popular it appears to be- Some
| of the very frailest of these materials can
only be utilized by making them up upon
silk or other firm foundation goods A dress
| OF tissue so thin as scarcely to cast
| shadow is puffed upon glace silk founda-
ton. 1t is gathered so full that it gives an
additional tint to the changeable under
| fabric. puff of the tissue is placed at the
hem of the skirt. Above this is a founce
nnished with an edging Of lace, the lace
| set on over wide hem in such a way as
10 strengthen the edge of the frill to which
II is applied. There are perpendicular bands
| OF lace insertion set over the fabric and
these meet the edging and assist in giving
flrmness to the ruffie. A puff comes next,
| then ruffie and so on until the skirt is al
most covered. The waist is a mass of puffs
and lace, and the sleeves have voluminous
frilIs standing far out over the sleeve tops
Ihese are very light and float and sway
ABOUT III the most eccentric fashion
win these materials at one extreme of
lashlen and fine, rather heavy broadcloth
at the other with every intermediate grade
Hlled, there is ample opportunity for the
display of taste and intelligence in any
caprice that may suggest itself. A stylish
oress Is OF white broadcloth with elaborate
embroidery. The skirt is plainly cut and
hts the figure smoothly. From either side
OF the front breadth are two shaped ruff
lies, very scanty and narrow at the portion
next to the front, but growing deeper to-
ward the back. They begin at a point about
midway of the length of the skirt and curve
to the very hem at the back A vine in
shades of wood color, with dashes of cardi-
nal, is wrought at the edges of the ruffles
just above a button-holed scalloped edge.
Inc waist has cape-shaped shoulder trim
ming embroidered to match the skirt ruff
hes, ana little basque skirt consisting of
TWO ruffles similarly finished The sleeves
are made of the cloth stitched in fine tucks
the vest Is of satin in narrow plaits the
collar IS OF lace and band of embroidery
the belt is of velvet, and a large rosette of
velvet is placed at one side of the front
at the belt and another at the front of one
shoulder. Dresses of white linen duck,
pique and wool fabrics of all sorts are
worn either with their own waists or fanci-
ful arrangements of lace ribbon and vel
vet. A princess in white linen duck of ex-
quislte quality has the neck cut out quite
low and square at the front, with the back
Just moderately curved out, leaving the
shoulder high enough to fit comfortably.
The edge of the neck is finished in hand
embroidery in a scallop with a row of tiny
dots. Ihis is worn with a waist made with
tuckS finished with hemstitching and a col
lar with hemstitched ruffle and narrow
Valenciennes lace. This inside waist is
made somewhat the old cbpmiSetfa +
tern, or more strictly speaking, sleeve
less blouse, which, by the way, is to be an
indispensable part of every dressy equip
ment; These blouses are made of null or
fine linen lawn and are finished either with
belt or a. draw string according to the
figure of the wearer. If they are for
Inquire inclined to be stout they may be fin
1shed with a very narrow hem and extend
merely below the bust, but unless there is
reason for extreme care they are much more
convenient if they reach the waist line.
A novelty costume is made of white linen
huckaback. 1t is in the finest quality such
as sells for IS cents to 81 a yard. 1t is made
with skirt and a waist with a fitted back
and slightly sagging front; the sleeves are
gathered at the tops, just enough to give
them a graceful shape. The skirt has no
trimming. The waist is in the severest tailor
fashion, with rows of stitching and
tremely fine, fancy pearl buttons.
A much-admired costume is of twilled
white linen. This is also in tailor-made
style having a basque skirt with several
rows of stitching and wide revers cut out
in curves and extending over the sleeve
tops and forming a little cape collar at the
back.
Whenever and wherever one can dispose
of tuckS and bands of insertion, there they
are SIRE to be found. A waist is tucked
from the belt about quarter of the dis
lance to the shoulders, the tucks running
round and round the figure. Then there is
plain space about as wide as the tucked
potion. Above this there are other tucks
and these meet the yoke, which is of en-
broidery and tucks alternately but running
in perpendicular lines instead of round and
round like those below. From the edges Of
the yoke over the shoulders there are double
frills lined with crinoline to stiffen them.
These stand far out over the sleeve tops
and are trimmed with very full ruchings of
lace