davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The news & observer. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1894-current, 1898-05-19
licences that the supreme moment could

evidences that the supreme moment could
not be far off.
Naturally it was impossibleto obtain
information as all those in the castle
were near the death chamber. At five
o'clock, the long watch ended. and the
final bulletin was brought out announcing
that Mr.. Glastone had passed calmly
from one sleep to another.
6 a. m.-The following bulletin has
just been posted
In the natural course Of things the
funeral will be at Hawarden. Mr..
Gladstone expressed a strong wish to
have no flowers at his funeral and the,
family will be grateful if this desire is
strictly respected
DR.. Dobie says Mr. Gladstone breathed
quietly all night and passed away quite
peacefully.
UNIVERSAL SYMPATHY.
London, May 19.-Every other topic
in Great Britain yesterday dropped out
of sight before the passing of Mr. Glad
stone. In two places. perhaps. was the
tension most keen and heartfelt-the
House of Commons and Hawar(lcn.
Just before the House rose Yesterday.
a telegram from Mr. Herbert Gladstone
reached Lord Stanley announcing that
his father was sinking Already before
his death the hush of grief seemed to
fall over the scene of his triumph
1t was generally felt at St Stephens
that his dying was but the sequel to that
great scene witnessed four years ago
when. his last speech. spoken. he quit
ted the House without one word Of
spoken adieu.
Anticipating the inevitable. the mem
bers of the Government discussed the
appropriate procedure to be- observed
and resolved that no effort on their part
should be wanting to mark suitable
sense of their loss.
Disregarding recent precedence. it was
decided that the program in narliament
should be the same as that adopted in
the cases of the Earl of Chatham and Of
me me Younger Pitt. namely am address 70
ier Majesty praying for n funeral NJ
the public charge and monument erect
cd in Westminster Abbey.
Throughout the whole KINGDOM every
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25
Answers to CORRESPONDENTS.

MEDUSUS-Take a daily tepid sponge
bath and scrub the entire body twice
week with hot water and CASTLE soap.
Avoid all rich, and greasy foods and al
strong muscles and pure blood, and you
will acquire a good, healthy complexion.
If the eruptions are Of the kind that come
to tiny white head, they must be care
contents gently pressed out. Then wash
with listerine which has been diluted in
three times as much bailed water. After
using this for several nights mix a small
pinch of borax with two tablespoonful of
cologne water and use for several nights.
ALBION-Your first letter reached me
and was answered In its turn. l feel sure
you must have seen the answer in last
Sundays Call.
MAB-The orange flower skin food,
your eyes. The proportions are: Sperma-
ceti, " ounce, white wax, " ounce; sweet
almond oil, | ounce; lanoline, ounce;
cocoanut oil, ounce; tincture of benzoin,
Melt the first FIVE ingredients in porce--
lain kettle. Take from the fire and add
the benzoin and the orange flower water,
fiuffing 1t with an egg beater until cold.
Massage, of course. must accompany its
possibly cam but hold the skin taut with
the left hand and erase with the fore
finger of the right, rubbing gently. out
with a firm, even pressure. Keep this up
for five or ten minutes. Rubbing with a
MRS. A. RAFFETO-For the blotchy
skin use a wash made of / ounce OF
glycerine, Y ounce rosemary water and Is
drops of carbolic acid Also use a cold
dents: Pure white wax, y OUNCE; ,sper--
maceti ~ ounces; sweet almond oil, "
ounces; rosewater q ounce Ny advice
about the hair is to let 1t alone. Darken-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25
AFTERNOON COSTUME FOR FALL.

and constant pinching-not hard pinching.
but firm smoothing. l gave special talk
last Sunday on the treatment of black
heads, which 1 presume, you saw. It is
almost impossible to get rid of them with
out using soap. Really, think you need
the advice of competent physician.
think the digestive and circulatory Sys-
TENS need a general overhaulIng. Try
this lotion for massaging the hollow, bony
places: Add equal parts of lanoline,
cocoanut oil and cocoa butter. How
ever, as long as your general health IS
not good outward applications will be of
little benefit. Soap, has tendency to
make the teeth yellow, and charcoal and
all other gritty substances, If used fire.
quently will injure the enamel. The best
To this you can add some powdered orr1S
root, which gives 1t a pleasant flavor and
mas ANT 75nS1SP1f Course, emitting
the soap will somewhat alter the char,
acter Of the cucumber milk 1t should
ject to the soap and oil, then use the Gu
cumber juice in this way. Press Inc Juice
out of the green cucumbers. Heat TINS
until a white scum rises to the top. Skim
this off and then strain. Dilute 1T about
one-third with rosewater and little
alcohol added to 1t will preserve It Many
pure state undoubtedly have a tendency
to promote the growth of hair upon the
face, but when used merely as an ingreI
with perfect safety The wrinkles should
be massaged as Illustrated In your dla-
straight up through the middle of the
forehead For wrinkles in the forehead a
compress of new linen, soaked in a mix
ture of equal parts of alcohol and white
of egg is quite beneficial. know nothing
about chloroform used for the purpose
you mention. Listerine, slightly diluted,
is one of the best things I know of for
that purpose When ones nose is sensitive
to changes of temperature 1t is usually
sign of weak circulation, which should be
restored by tonics, massage or baths, or
any method suggested by ones physician
In the way of an outward application
there is nothing better than witch hazel
1 presume this is the hair tonic you refer
to- Fifteen grains of quinine dissolved in
half a pint of alcohol This is particularly
good for hair that is very oily.
VIRGINIA. r. B. P.-You might try
this lotion for the freckles: Three grains
borax; five drains rose water. five drains
orange flower water. But, as freckles are
the natural accompaniment of auburn
hair, and as you have had yours so long,
/ doubt if anything will remove them.
/ should let them alone If | were you
and not worry about them. Rubbing the
eyebrows every other night with five
grains of sulphate of quinine dissolved
in one ounce of alcohol, and on the other
nights massaging with pure olive oil will
often bring a darker hue.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

And ears whose lobes have been severed
by the weight of rings are most disfig
uring.
A perfect and healthy ear should be of
a shell-like pinkness. When, however,
they are continuously red, which may be
the result OF frequent pinchings or pull
Ing or exposure to the cold, wash them
morning and evening with lotion made
as follows:
Alum tpo,wdeTe1,, teaspoonful.
Tincture Of benzoin, 2 tablespoonfuls
Rosewater, II pint.
When the ears are very pale in color,
tokens i'll health. battle them frequently
with alcohol or bay rum.
Women who are subject to eczema of
the ear, which is not an uncommon all
ment, should avoid shell-fish and pork in
every form. They should pin their faith
to fruits and salads, particularly dande-
frequent warm baths and be careful not
to get chilled or overheated. For the fear
ful itching which often accompanies &c
Zema of the ear a local application of lis
terine, diluted with water, will usually
be found efiicacious.
Never insert a sharp intrument of any
ing or scratching 1t, as they are liable to
injure the delicate membrane and pro-
duce permanent i'll results. No liquid Of
any sort should ever be injected into the
ear except by medical advice. In case Of
earache the only safe home remedy Is a
hot water bag, or a roasted onion very
not, done up In flannel and applied on
the outside of the ear.
Regarding the care of the ear cleanli-
less is the first considerations Many
women of otherwise scrupulously cleanly
thoroughly wash and cleanse the ears of
the Accommodations of dust and cerumen.
The pleasing whole of we'll dressed, neat
looking woman's appearance is completely
marred when one discovers the apparent
neglect of this important little member
The best way to clean the ears is to use
q 1n6 on, I'll
and has tiny sponge covering Its end
And now | want to say to my CORE
spondents what have said before You
must be patient. Your letters will not be
sighted or neglected, but each one an
swetred fully. in its turn. 1t is impossible
to answer all the letters each week I
know it is disappointing to pick up the
Sunday paper and not find your name
among the answered letters, but try it
again the next Sunday or the Sunday fol-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

ing it would be very risky experiment.
The eyebrows may be improved by using
grains of sulphate of quinfne in one ounce
of alcohol. Apply this every other night
and on the nights in between times, mas
sage very gently with the fingers dipped
in warm olive oil.
KITTY-Do let me know if you were
finally successful with the cold cream
LULU-The embrocation made or the
following ingredients is very excellent for
softening and whitening the hands: AL
mond oil, 31a ounces; cucumber juice,
ounces; white wax drachms; sperma-
ceti, l ounce oil of neroli 10 drops. To
get the cucumber juice press 1t out OF
the fresh cucumbers. Heat this to point
just sufficient to coagulate the albumln-
Gus matter and strain. Melt the wax and
spermaceti over water bath, add the
almond oil slowly and remove from the
heat: Now add the. cucumber juice, also
slowly Stir continually with silver
spoon until cold. Then beat in the Oil OF
neroli. Rub this well into the hands at
night If after using it several weeks
1T has not hePed you let fat kn9 face and
double chin can be reduced by dieting
exercise and proper massage. Smear the
face and chin with cold cream, and then
with the tips of the first finger and thumb
gently pinch the flesh. Be sure not to
bruise the skin. This systematic picking
up and rolling of the flesh between the
fingers will in time dissolve the tissues.
The result will be sort of fabbiness
of the skin which can be done away with
by a weak alum solution. Put bit of
alum the size of a bean in a pint of
cold water, and apply with piece of alb
sorbent cotton after the massage.
MISS RAE CHAMERS-You will find
your question answered in the foregoing
reply to Medusus. Also use the cold
cream formula for which is given in re-
ply to Mrs. A. Raffeto.
CONFIDENCE-Glyce in its pure
state will very often cause the tiny hairs
to sprout. Electricity is the. only sure
cure and IT would be utter folly to I'M
dergo the nervous torture of the electric
needle to remove anything that is of so
little real account. If the little hairs are
very dark you can tighten them and so
make them less noticeable by putting a
little peroxide of hydrogen on them. 1t
is owing to lack of lime in the system
that the nails split or are brittle. Rem
edy this by medical treatment Some,
times seeking them in warm olive oil will
help. Suppose you try it. The half
moon does not show on every ones
fingers. no matter how for down the flesh
way be pushed. l would advise you to
go to a manicure, who understands the
Treatment of nails in the condition yours
are in After two or three treatments
YOU will be able to care for your nails
yourself. l know of absolutely nothing
mat will make the lips thinner. Large
noses can be made smaller by persistent
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25
Back View Of Same GoWD-Note
the Fastening Of the Skirt.

fashion and the shawl can be either of
white. delicately embroidered in some
contrasting color, or, as is often the case,
1t can be of pale blue pale pink or pale
green heavily worked with white.
The borders are embroidered in large
roses and finished with long silk fringe,
and in the four corners of the shawl are
great punches of the flowers. When
draped skillfully these shawls add much
will be among the leading trimmings for
evening dresses of fall and winter.
But for daylight wear plaids will be
used Men will also dress considerably in
plaids this fall, and for them there is the
ever popular Scotch plaid and the Nc
kinley tweed, which has run a season or
more.
The greatest latitude is allowed in mems
suitings, and 1t is surprising to see the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25
NOVELTIES IN SLEEVES.

which flares all the way around It has
heavy stitchings and is something like a
The coat has modified sleeves which are,
however large enough to slip over a silk
waist, and it is lined with thin silk to
make Ii pull on easily.
The larger the plaid in the coat the bet
ter provided 1t is not too large. A plaid
Of four inches is fashionable as is also. one
which are SO large as to cover the whole
of the back in one square.
Plaid ribbons make very iaunty little
hats for fall. The ribbon is tied In
very upright bow knot and the bow knot
is then stood upon the front of the hat
with its l9ups proudly erect The plaid
plaid in the jacket and thus the fall wo-
man looks very much like a piece of nov
city goods as she sallies forth on the first
brisk day in her gay plaid.
Plaids for house waists are decidedly
novel. Some of them are figured. One
Of the prettiest was a very thin cloth
were scattered all over the goods. An
other was figured with small punches of
roses so that the plaid goods was made
very gay with the flowers.
Plaid skirts are trimmed with bands of
braid, but very seldom with ruffles. A
plaid ruffle is always bewildering thing
and the fashion makers have just about
abandoned the idea of using them; Plaid
skirts are treated TO bands of black braid
put on in clusters of from four to ten rows
each. The clusters are brought closer and
closer together as they approach the
waist.
Any plain band trimming can be used
upon plaid skirt and pipings and bands
of plain silk are much seen. A green and
red Mckinley plaid can be banded with
scarlet silk This makes very pretty
skirt for fall and one that has a lovely
effect as the leaves are turning.
In little while 1t will be time for gray
and green, but just now the plaids are
holding their own.
These plaid skirts are all lined with silk,
or imitation silk, and are ruff1ed arounu
the foot with narrow dust ruffie which
shows slightly below the hem Of the skirt
Red and blue hold their popularity in
plaid combinations and so do yellow and
green. Any color is pretty in plaid except
white which should be used sparingly.
Silk vests, are considerably worn, but
are less fashionable than the cloth ones
Later there come the channels vests,
which are made in such attractive styles
that one cannot tell them from cloth, so
embroidered and trimmed are they.
The new plaids are many, but the most
popular ones are the Cuban and Dewey
plaids The Dewey plaid is composed of
mangrove green and cantaloupe yellow,
with a band of pomegranate red. The
green and yellow cross each other IN
broad stripes through which a pin stripe
of red runs.
The Cuban plaid is darker being of
brown and purple with green running
through the brown. 1t Is a pretty plaid,
though, and will be seen a great deal.
The old plaid shawls make very excel
lent waists, although ii is pity to cut
them up. Many persons prefer to use
them for skirts as though there were less
slaughter of an heirloom in cutting skirt
than waist. The fringe is then used as
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

IOS FEW words about the care of
N " the ears will not be amiss In
A these beauty talks, for the size
Y and shape of these affect the
~ y personal appearance to great
er or less extent. The perfect ear should
be about twice as long as broad. and
should lie back close to the head. There
are very few perfect ears.
Although nature has much to do with
the size and shape of the ear, mothers
are largely to blame for the almost de-
formed ear we continually see in young
people.
There is nothing that gives a lad so
uncouth an appearance as wide, project
Ing ears, and yet, a little care in early
youth will almost entirely remedy this
defect. A simple bandage worn at night,
which holds the ears fiat to the head,
is all that is necessary. The absence Of
bones and the soft carriages make the
ear particularly easy member to train.
Rrarely ever is an individual found
whose two ears are exactly the same in
shape, and so marked is the difference in
some cases that when photographed 1t is
difficult to believe that the pair belonged
to one individual. 1t is said that the right
ear is an Inheritance from the father or
his family, while the left resembles the
mothers ear or that of some of her fam
lily, which accounts for the. dissimilarity.
100 MUCH CdnIiOl ne Sdiu dSdllSl Tie
reprehensible habit which some mothers
have of boxing their children's ears.
When this is resorted to conclusion takes
place, the power of which is often greater
than the delicate membrane of the drum
head can resist, and 1t bursts. The mem
brane may heal, but the blow often af-
fects the nerve, paralyzing it, which, in
the end, may. bring on permanent deaf
ness. There is a certain portion of the
childs anatomy oh, we mothers that
was especially designed by nature for the
chastising hand or slipper of the irate
parent so let the blows fall there If fall
they must, and so protect the delicate or
gan that was meant for other purposes
than chastisement.
If l had my way no childs ears should
ever be pierced. To my mind this is
relic of barbarism and any mutilation of
the flesh is abominable. Piercing when
cumsily performed, has been known in
many cases to develop erysipelas and alb
scesses Of a most dangerous character.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

The garment is cut like shirt waist
and made without lining, being. kept In
place at the waist by draw string. The
sleeves should be plain and not full, but
gathered into cuff moi more than two
inches wide and closed by gold button
The tie must be made on the length
wise of the satin, with an interlining of
crinoline and is the same shape as the
white pique Ascot ties, but seven inches
wide. Cut the stock the same as the
white stock, with buttonholes back and
front.
The belt is quite new and consists of
a. piece of satin twenty inches wide dou-
bled, having the edges stitched. In the
back the belt is pulled up almost to the
shoulder blades, but In front is pulled
as far down as possible and confined by
a double gold or silver buckle not mors
than two inches in width.
The waist is closedZby fancy studs,
each different from the others. The
buckle, studs, and cuff-buttons must har-
monte. A black serge skirt is to be worn
with the waist, silk being quite oN OF
date.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

trimming around the foot of the skirt.
The fringe when used in this way Is set
an inch above the hem to avoid fraying
around the foot.
Another way of using the plaid shawl is
skirt. The shawl is spread out and care
fully cut crosswise in strips of about. fif-
teen inches wide. These strips are after
ward sewed around the foot of a plain
cloth skirt and thus do duty as bias folds.
If the shawl is very large, the remainder
of 1t is made into a waist using the fringe
puffs.
Evening dresses are even to be trimmed
with shawls, but the enveloping plaid
drawing-room unless it be Of very old
and expensive silk. The plain silk shawls
Of half century ago are used. They are
draped upon evening skirts in overskirt
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

q SEW YORK, Sept. 23.-"Please
INll excuse mamma to-day-she's
H NJ busy" lisped a little girl of 6
years to visitor.
y y The caller hesitated before
turning away and the girl added:
She's upstairs in the attic looking for
an old plaid shawl that used to be grand
mas"
The old plaid shawl that used to be
grandmas" will be very fashionable this
winter. You will see 1t in so many guises
that you will scarcely recognize it. and
you will behold 1t decorated. trimmed and
utilized in all manner and variety of
trimmings.
THE old plaid shawl that used to be
grandma's" has been brought down from
the attic and hung in the breeze until all
the camphor smell blew out of it; it has
been pressed and shaken until the creases
were out of it and the nap all restored
1t has been cut and sewed and fashioned
into new garment, such as will delight
the heart of the fashionable woman who
was so fortunate as to possess a grand
ma, the whole season through.
1t is undeniably a plaid season. the
spring proved the fact that plaids are
popular; and now for month plaids will
again hold sway in great brilliancy.
The plaid season." said a very fash
ionable Paris dressmaker, us from April
Is to June |. and from September 10 to
November L"
1t is true that during the six weeks of
the plaid season plaids are brought out
and fairly Haunted in the breeze. You
see gaudy plaid vests and no less gaudy
plaid coats. You behold scarlet plaid rib
bon upon a mixed plaid straw toque, and
you see house bodices plaided until the
wearer is a grand mixture of color.
The favorite and the showiest bit of
plaid which one can wear in ones cos
tune is the plaid vest, which for the next
six weeks takes the place of the muslin
shirt waist. The vest is made sleeveless
with a silk back and plaid cloth front.
The back may be of taffeta and the front
of Scotch suiting. The buttons may be of
pearl and the lining of the lapels of
bright silk.
The plaid vest fits very tightly at the
waist; in fact. is is decidedly glove-fit-
ting. It's glory lies in the fact that it is
very snug, and the very incest handiwork
is necessary TO secure good fit. The vest
is worn over white muslin shirt front
which is attached to white broad col
lar. A plaid tie to match the vest is
worn with this. and into the tie are stuck
numerous sporty little pins of various oe-
The plaid coat is of heavier grade of
cloth and il hangs loose in the front very
much like the English hunting coat. 1t
is trimmed down the front with large
pearl buttons which do not, however, do
the real work The coat is firmly hook
ed and the buttons are merely for orna-
ments.
The popular new coat collar is one
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

lowing, and your patience will surely be
rewarded. l feel impelled to say this as
SO many have written to me saying they
had written before and were so bitterly
disappointed at not seeing their answers
in that weeks paper.
The letters are all filed away In regular
order and as each one is reached 1t will be
answered. To the many who have written
to me and who hesitate to write again
wish to say I'm very glad If have helped
you, and If there are any further cobwebs
to be cleared away will be glad to have
you come again.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25
RED
WAISTS.

GSWO girls recently returned from
summer abroad have brought back
some very stunning waists. Brick
red cloth is the material used. Black
satin Ascot ties made very wide and very
short, not more than ten inches below the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

collar, combine with the black satin belts
to give the distinctive style.
Any girl who can sew little bit can
have a red waist just as chic as those
brought from abroad. A waist with tie
and belt can be made for about 49, A
yard and a '-~'r of the material and a
yard of black satin will be sufficient.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

swords were made of alternate layers of
iron and steel, so finely tempered that the
blade would bend to the hilt without
breaking. The weapons had edges so
keen that no coat of mail could resist
them, and surfaces so highly polished
that when Moslem wished to rearrange
his turban he used his sword for look
ing-glaSS.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-25

It is but seldom thata really good spe-
cimen of the Damascus sword can be OBJ
tanned, for the art of working and en-
craving this kind of stcel~is dead. THESE