The times., 1898-02-20
EXIT BRAIDING; ENTER TUCks
The Louis Quinze Coat Win Dispute
the SUPP emacy of the Fancy
Waist-Dashing French Bows anu
Lace Jahots-Reversible Skirts
for Up-to-Date Golfers.

fashion of braiding, 70 the point Oh eA-
travagance. will soon be all but set COM
pletely aside in favor OF tucklnS anu
cording. The pretty new spring cioth
skirts are. in just a few exceptions
treated with very narrow trucks, running
from waist to foot and set as close To-
gether or as far apart as taste denahos.
The best effect is when The tucks close
in slightly at the waist line, spresdihs
ont fanwise toward the foot, or from the
waist. down nearly to the region OF the
knees, little outstanding tucks, run CLOSE
together, extend down in series OF
points. giving the lower part oil the skift
IN the appearance of a fiounce.
Yet another method is that of setting
clusters of circular tucks, fif-
taan tinv ones at the foot,
eleven at the knees, and seven run
ming around the hips. Numbers of at
tractive tailor costumes have their skirts
tucked in panels or tie front crossed
with small bias tucks; in fact. there Is
no end yet found TO the Infinite variety
this simple adornment can lend cloth
dress. Sleeves and vests are tucked eN-
tensiveiy to harmonic with the lower
half of a suit, while the cording, as with
the tucking, is often used to exploit
color IN silk stitching contrasting with
the gowns goods.
So far. no cording in very high relief
has been adopted. The effort seems yet
TO tend toward raising fine lines in slight
prominence against a smooth cloth sur
face, a series of ornate, geometric, ng-
ures. or delicate scroll patterns, such as
the narrow braids used to supply. so
far have been seen very chaste Lenten
gray and monk brown cashmere cloth
suits. with wrinkled lines OF cords de-
scending in groups of five from the hip
line to the knees, there turning ana
sweeping off to the rear Of the petticoat.
Every fine irregular corded line is set an
eighth Of an inch apart, and sprnkied
sparingly over the lines are pin-head
dots of cut steel.
This could hardly be termed beading.
but presently we viii see the steel and
gun metal pin heads frightening many
cloth suits and greatly TO their adNan-
tage. A list of The good. new light
weight woolens includes costume serge,
with a smooth finish and narrow, close
wale In double width ana less than 81 a
yard Alongside this admirable goods
is French finetta, light, springy wool
novelty cloth. wide brown and green
wool Velours and soft striped London
suitings Just now there are no better
selections to be made in the shops,
while on the silk counter brocaded tai
fetas leads everything else. Every day,
in the airy mark Of cotton things, there
is a fresl, temptation to extravaganza
X would seem that she who walks IN
this very American attire VIII Sillef
haa to spare, because she can buy the
sweetest of printed lawns, dimities and
nainsook at 10 cents a yard. Lovely
patterns, too, and the pretty tribes 90
bv various names-carmelite, muliette
and such fanciful titles.
Something more costly. but betraying
exceeding taste and originality on the
part of the manufacturers, are the
boxed dress patterns Of white applique
lawn. This is predestined to take the
place entirely of the once well-loyed
brown batiste and the white embroider-
ed lawn The applique is edged al
about with a fine lire of black needle
work. and a white organize, howereu
over with pale lavender and deep pur-
pie iris blossoms, set in delicate black
frame work, is a deiectable slSht 10
beauty-loving eyes.
Another pretty thing called JaVanese
that we do not recall ever having seen
before is a cotton goods, soft and me
as the batiste used for French lingerie,
striped in satiny lines and flowered like
the teacups and cake plates OF our
er-andmothers. To accord with these
dainties are the Dresden and applique
embroideries. their colored figures laid
on white linen groundwork. and as ap-
propriate, are highly deserving Inquired
and fiowered ribbons. all edged with
broad white satin BORDERS.
1t is really impossible to think OF any
garnishment for summer muslins, dam
cling. calling, or dinner dresses, that the
counters cannot supply all ready made
No woman ever thinks these days of
making with her own hands a decora-
tive front, the ruffies for the net. SILK,
or muslin skirts, the bright collar for
her tailor dress, or a bit of a jabot to
smarter up a rather solemn suit The
economy of the homemade is slight
when so cheaply and SO beautifully put
together. she can purchase yards OF
muslin or chiffon fiouncing all deco
rated with having rows of narrow
gathered ribbon, or lines of fine chiffon
putting called bouillonne.
Delicate Isle and liberty silk ruffiing
comes with lace edging or completely
tucked, or charmingly bordered with
fringes of Violets, cowsiips, etc. SILK
and linen appliques in white and col
ors, and Isle quillines are noticeable
among the garnishments for spring
dresses Just as clusters of larburnum
and brilliant silk pomegranate blooms
are set forth amid the millinery novel
ties.
A history of the passing fashions GER
tainly would not be complete without due
regard TO the wherewlthal our feet SHAH
be shod What with the endless varia-
tions on stripes and plaids and lace work
fronts the hosiery counter is very at
tractive spot There is, for instance, a
special corner for bicycle coquettishness
in footwear. She who does not adopt the
Scotch golf stocking can buy very pref
ty half wool, half cotton hose in leather
brown, varied with black or white ring
stripes, navy blue with hunter pink
bands. OF butcher blue, set off by green
circles.
For skating, black cashmere stockings
are produced, having a shot silk web
that is very gay indeed. To assume with
high boots for morning walks soft wool
tartan cashmere hose in the gaudiest of
colorings, lead the way, when in the
evening. Partisan taste supplies black
drawn silk, offset by means Of chintz
rosebuds end green foliage. In the same
category must be mentioned the spun
silk stockings IN the hitherto unused
tones of boot brown and swedish gray.
Let It be borne in the minds Of those
seeking knowledge that horizontal
stripes and bands of open work are just
now pre-eminent and that by way of be-
ing intensely fashionable and expensive
insertions of black lace with white silk
hose, or white lace. appliqued on black
silk stockings, Is the proper and costly
csper.
TO adequately display these prettiness-
es the best dancing slippers are fashion,
ed. cut very low on the toe, and those OF
black satin. that boast the title of court
slippers, have the most delicate chains Of
jet passenenterie that cross over the in
step and encircle the ankle. Sometimes
these straps are made Of black jetted
lace. or lace worked with steel beads.
and quite as attractive as these are the