Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1898-09-04
IN W0MAN'S REALM.
OUR FASHION COMMISSIONER HAS
MANY NEW AND USEFUL IDEAS.
STIFFNESS BAS GONE FROM SKIRTS.
something About Capcs and CIoalSs-
Tneaual Ribbed Poplins Will He
Favorftcs-A Pretty Dress Pattern
Dcmi-Safson Toilette.


VI VI AllF ft'tANeAAff
NEW YORK, September 3.--All stiffness
has disappeared from the skirts Of cos
tunes. There are folds in plenty where
the skirts and shaped houuces begin &c
widen. but they fan softly. Even the
japels Of Jackets are not so very firm as
their outlines. Collars, however, are still
rigid. AS for capes they have followed
suit. and we shall see them hanging in
soft folds from the shoulders finished by
the shaped frlls that are all the rage
All materials that will not fan in folds
are now rejected by hrst-class dress
makers
THE NEW DRAP CUR
The new drap CUR to be used for capes
and cloaks are thinner than usual, in Or
der to drape and hang softly. All the
new materials partake Of this quality
Those that promise TO be most in favor
are All sorts of cloths, faced and unfaced,
cashmere. reps. and twills, soft makes Of
molres and satins, corded silks and fancy
corded materials. Then there are, besides
these. seIf-colored figured woollens, with
simnie pstterns, lozenges. spot, and ara
besQuCs.
When different colors are combined III
the fancy tissues they are so woven to-
gether that the effect is that Of mixed
fabric. Rubbngs and narrow stripings
are among the new goods and run either
way of the material. In the wide widths
The direction given TO the woven pattern
often does not matter. as the dressmakers
make them up any way which happens TO
suit their taste.
UNEQUAL RIBBED POPLINS.
The unequal ribbed poplins bid fair TO
be favorites for elegant dress. The man
ner in which they are treated is decided
~ pleasing many being shot or watered'
and sometimes both. Among Irish pop
Inns shown was one OF a most peculiar
weave. The design was Of alternate black
and white half-inch squares. At the top
Of every NTH square a salmcn-colored
silk braid of the same width appeared TO
protrude through the material and hung
in a frinsed end rather more than an inch
IN length. The braid was caught at the
back I'm the weave Of the stun.
Moire poplins have some Of them, a
small brocade figure almost covering the
surface; others are spotted. The designs
are not floral but in rings etc
a PRETTY DRESS PATTERN.
A new species Of dress pattern has
made its appearance. The pattern des-
tined for the slSirt-which is without
seams-oonsists of a large circle or
square I'm which the centre will be cut
away and the placket-hole slit leaving no
fulness al the waist, but much at the
feet. The prettiest one 1 saw was Of blue
silk popliu and the goods for the skirt
chu1a1 tho Ln0E rnrffon hafucr 11na
and gradually becoming lighter till the
upper portion OF the front attained a
bIuish-White hue. the lower part still re-
naming blue. Woven I'm the material We're
black silk cords, twisted with gold. .ard
ascending from the foot IN a sort If
wavy ray design, reaching IN the back
half way w the skirt and being much
lower i'm front These rays cncircled The
entire skirt az intervals OF about an incn
This idea win be carried out I'm endless
variations Of coloring and foot designs
The effect produced by the shading is
beautiful The body will be shaded I'm tho
same manner. the lighter part being re-
served for the upper portion Of the.
sleeves and body and darkening as 1t
reaches the waist and wrists.
A pEAu-SAIsON TOILETTE.
Here Is the description Of a demi-saison
toilette made in the advance styles al
WAYS used for these wool gowns. made
10 wear on cool days I'm the latter part
of summer and through the autumn. The
material Of this gown is "a blue cloth, or
very light weight The bodice has tuck
cd and rounded grille. both back ana
'front.' OF orange SILK. This is one OF tho
most recent. and consequently one OF ire
fmartest combinations OF color The re- |
laainder Of the bodice IS tight fitting, |
hack and front. and tucked I'm front to !
Just below the bust line; the sleeves long |
and tight 0tting and coming in point |
90 the knuckes, bearing at the shoulder |
three decp-applicd tucks Of orange SILK. |
The skirt also rejoiced I'm three Of these
applied ucks OF taffeta. half-long cape |
or the cloth with high-haring collar and
rounded fronts. and the entire edge haV-
ing "a shaped houncc. made this a very
swell toilette. or course the cape was
lined with the orange tanCta.
IN DRESS ACCESSORIES.
A new idea in handkerchiefs is 10 sen
:hcm in series OF seven one for each day
81 The week the name OF each Is en-
brOidered in white on differently colored
cambric FOR each day.
Bright colOred silks are used 10 en-
broidor small flowers such as violets, ana
daisies on white cambria handkerchiefs
The new trimmings show cOnclusiyely
that plain goods VIII be the vogue Of the
future FOR some time 10 come. The prom
inent feature Of these is, that they Will