The herald., 1898-01-09
ALL ABOUT THE
WOMAN OF FASHION.
Cupid's Turn to Rule at the
Coming January
Balls.
THE LONG SLEEVE.
Decolletage May Be Doomed Be
cause of Athletic Woman's
Muscular Build.

my turn next" says Cupid, as he
sits under the mistletoe which he him.
self has placed, and he is right in more
senses than one. Never until after
Christmas does the social season be-
come fully launched, but with the holi-
days behind. and the lenten season far
ahead. Cupid has what rough little
boys without wings would call "a soft
snap"
The first January bail gives every girl
= chance to begin the new year with a
new gown. and 1T will be sight worth
seeing to note how many Live up to
their opportunities. A new year reso-
luton to wear a new gown is very
easy one to keep. provided one has the
gown, and 1t has many advantages over
most resolutions for that very reason.
The newest freaks of the designer are
OF such a character as to enhance the
ease with which one may appear to
have q new gown, when at, the very
moment the wearer may be trembling
lest some dear friend recognize the
remnants OF half dozen old gowns of
which 1t is composed. For instance.
there is the velvet corselet made Of an
old velvet waist Of several years stand
ing-corselets ON ball gowns as well as
under them are very much in vogue, by
the way, the gown ON the right of the
illustration being a case in point. This
one is a combination of rose mousse
line and taffeta with cerise velvet. The
skirt Is Of sun-pleated taffeta; the
sleeves and guimpe Of shirred mousse
line. Over the mousseline guimpe the
velvet corselet Is laced with a silk cord
and fancy buttons. The corselet is fin-
tshed at the bottom with tabs which
form a sort OF basque. The shirred
sleeves are a useful innovation, as they
make the gown more suitable for less
formal occasions.
Economical young women are not
slow to recognize the advantages of the
evening dress with long sleeves, and 1t
Is growing quite fashionable to wear
them even ON state occasions. The dis
tinctton between a dinner gown and a.
ball dress has come to be what Queen
Victoria has made the requirement of
her court ladies, which imposes sleeves
upon the dinner gown at the peril of
the queens openly expressed displeas-
ure. Most OF such sleeves are of the
mousquetaire type, being made Of
shirred nousseline coming well down
over the hand. The beauty of such an
arrangement is the fact that the sleeves
can quickly be removed for a reception
or paal, and thus the same dress is
made to do double duty.
Numerous stuffs are used for the re-
movable sleeves. all of the gauzy va
rely such as null. net, lace, and chif-
ION. A grey satin gown, for instance.
VIII have a shirred sleeve of white
mousseadne with stripes ct steel snan-
giles; pale yellow has yellow CHIFFON
sleeves with silver spangles or pearls.
Some girls refurbish their last vear,s
gowns by taking out the large nuffs
that formed the sleeves of the old fash-
ion and substituting shirred net sleeves
In case one Wishes to turn an old bali
dress into dinner gown for this wear.
the mousquetadre sleeve comes in verv
handy, but often the neck also is too
low. One way to remedy this difflcultv
y TO Insert plain, well-fittine velvet
yoke OF slightly deeper tint than the
material. bordered with band Of