The record-union., 1898-06-05

these warnings have for once proved
effectual, or whether La Mode has sud-
denly made a new law for herself, we
see general evidence of a marked
change to quite the opposite style. The
brims of very many Of the hats turn
more or less back from the forehead,
with often the same characteristics at
the back, though less pronounced. The
crown is low and somewhat broad.
Shirred and wired chiffons, liberty
gauzes, and silks, nets, and tulles are
much used to trim this shape, also
dropping ostrich plumes Of every color.
One-sided effects are also produced, not
by trimming or manner Of adjusting
the hat, but because the shape itself
is lOp-sided. You see it at the most
fashionable French milliners-the brim
high on the right side, with contrast
ing depression on the left. The style
looks very we'll above some faces, but
they seem to be fair, youthful faces
only. On older women the appearance
of such head-gear is doubtful.
Military styles of decorations are
very popular for youthful jackets of
blue pilot cloth, yachting serge, or uni
form Melton. These are ornamented
with straps, and silk braid frogs,
pendiloques, straight rows of soutache
or very narrow gold braid, with eagle
pattern buttons to match, with like
adaptations of the hussar style and
other variations of army and navy
models. Some of these jackets open
over elaborately trimmed vests of
white, gray, or biscuit -colored ladies'
cloth. Others have dOuble-breasted
fronts, large revers, deep sailor collar,
and comfortably loose mutton-leg
sleeves.
Some of the new summer costumes
for afternoon wear are made of dark
or black material in silk, wool, or silk
and wool Weaves, and frightened by
tiny ruches, milliners' folds, or pipings
of bright Scotch plaid. Sometimes the
ruches are made merely of very mar
row Tartan ribbon gathered exactly
through the center and arranged upon
both skirt and bodice. A PaQuin cos
tune of dark moss-green bengaline is
trimmed with these ribbon ruches with
very pretty effect They decorate the
skirt in points and finish the collar,
sleeve-puffs, and wrist-frils The
blouse is slashed on each side, and cut
down in the neck, and beneath this is
second blouse, which forms the
guimpe and shows between the slash
ings. This under-blouse is made Of
plated taffeta which exactly matches
the clan-pattern of the ribbon ruches.
The graceful shepherdess hat is find
ing many admirers this season. It's
shape favors the present style of trim
ming, and it is found becoming to al
most every face. The sailor hat con-
tinues to be selected to wear with
most utility costumes. 1t is no doubt
the most appropriate shape to wear en-
suite with cycling, golf and similar
gowns. The new walking-hat is suffi-
ciently varied in style to adapt it to
all requirements, though the difference
in the shaping Of crown or brim is not
pronounced. The large hats, with
tilted, dropping brims, or those bent
picturesquely awry, are worn with
dressy attire on the drive or fashion
able promenade, while the walking-hat
like the plainly trimmed sailor, more
often accompanies the tailor-made
morning suit of pique. striped or check
ed duck However, there are exhibited
very elaborate examples Of the English
walking shape, that are designed to ac-
company very elegant gowns.
Every hour now seems to bring for
ward some new development of fash
ion Not a few of the reigning modes
have been retained-after due consid-
eration-others have been rejected un-
cOnditionally But among those which
heQn iaf cd &c ha
ened walking skirt Alas, its vogue is
confirmed as one has only to note on
promenades where the best-dressed
women congregate. The great major
ity Of handsome new spring costumes
worn by leaders of fashion are now
daily doing the work of brooms. When
such indorsers lead the way, the great
mass of people follow blindiy. Any fee
BILE protest against this senseIess, un-
tidy fashion is just as Intellectual as
was the old woman's historic attempt
to stay with her mop the encroachments
of the Atlantic Ocean
Exquisite cOlOring distinguishes the
new Scotch ginghams. Made up with
yokes or guimpes and sleeves Of white
embroidery they have all the dainty
effect of a summer silk. The French
zephyrs are even more charming in ef-
feet These are much thinner than
gingham In fact, they are little heav-
Ter than French lawn. The dyes are
invariably fast. The beautiful color
blendings in these ginghams of either
sort-rose and reseda, pink, white and
ciel blue; bronze, olive and peach color:
amber, moss green and turquoise blue:
lobela red, gray and laurel green; vio-
let, cream and tilleul-all are tempting
many purchasers. A fancy Tartan in
artistic shadings is wholly different
from the crude melange Of colors as
demonstrated in the Tartan proper. 1t
is only admirable in the eyes of the clan
it serves to distinguish.
1t seems quite notable fact that this
season there are numberless Spanish
effects in our most prominent fashions.
The Spanish fiounce RACES on the skirts
of airy summer gowns being made
ready for the gay vacation season: the
Spanish comb and coiffure are greatly
favored among fashionable dress"
styles of arranging the hair; the little
rounded Spanish jackets again appear
upon some of the latest toilets designed
both for day and evening wear; Spanish
gold is much used as a background for
jeweled ornaments for the neck head
and girdle; and, lastly. Spanish yellow
is one of the prime favorites among
summer silks and satins. nuns yelling,
crepe de chine, chiffon hats, ribbons.
hoe