The record-union., 1898-10-30

front of the skirt, with sashes of lace
at the back. One side Of the front or
the waist is nearly covered with the
lace, trimmed with bands and shoulder
and belt ornaments Of pearl, studded
with small jewel beads. The band
starts from the left shoulder, and goes
diagonally across the waist. On the
right side the waist is of plain satin,
laid in corded tucks and draped with
chiffon. One sleeve is of satin brocade
showing band and buckle of the jew
eled embroidery; the other is mass
of white chiffon and lace over a satin
putting. Both sleeves are very short
and full.
The above idea is followed out in
black corded silk and other silk gowns,
and the left side is detached from the
right, so that various colored half
waists can be worn with the black
gown, which on the right side is trim
med like the skirt with diagonal lines
of cut jet. Of course on these black
gowns the sleeves are long, and some
are laced to the elbow, over a space
which is to be filled in with color
matching the half guimpe on the left
side.
Repped silks of brilliant luSter are
meeting with great success this season.
The one called gros de Londres is an
exact copy of the corded silks woven
many years ago, while some of the
new sleeves are figured with sprigs, dots
and other small designs. Gros de Tours
is very handsome, soft finished gros
grain, heavier than taffeta, but not so
glossy. 1t comes in rich dark colors
for gowns for demi-dress wear, and in
very pretty colors for evening dresses.
very smart garment this season is
the French walking jacket in tan, al
mond, beige or brown cloth made from
model between an elongated Elton and
fitted military jacket, fastened at the
throat, but with easy fronts it is a
charming style. 1t is finished with mil
itary braid, with glints of gold in the
pattern, and is quite long at the back.
The lining is silk, and the sleeves are
small, giving very trim effect.
Another style is a regular military
| model, which buttons up to the throat
and is very close fitting. 1t is trim
med with braid and frogs, and looks
very much like a dress waist.
The newest toques are considerably
larger in contour, and velvet is the ia
Vorite material for the popular head
coverings in two distinct shades of one
color. Thus, dark violet and light
mauve, deep and pale brown, orange
and canary yellow, wine color and deli
cate tea rose, etc. Hard, stiff looking
styles are not used, soft, loose crowns
being this season much favored En-
broidery, lace appliques and gold and
silver galloons and special pieces are
used for decoration, also very narrow
| ribbon, gathered and put on in scroll
patterns. There is a marked tendency
to exaggerate the width of trimming
above the forehead. Both hats and
toques have very broad and massive
bows, feathers, etc, in the Immediate
front. Tall stiff wings set on very close
together, and fastened with a paste
buckle, look less extreme. but even
these are multiplied until the effect is
top heavy and the hat is rendered un-
necessarily burdensome
+ 4
NOoi DeHSdIiHe Is material OF rich
ness and refinement that is likely to
become very popular this season. It is
soft and silky in appearance, and the
| fabric falls in most graceful folds in
| It's making and draping 1t is fine and
delicate in effect, while at the same time
1t is recommended for durability. 1t
appears in all the popular autumn
shades, but is particularly effective in
some OF the neutral patterns, showing
| to best advantage the lines of bright
colored silk with which it is woven.
AT the recent brilliant opening in the
various importing houses a very fine
exhibit was made of the styles to pre-
vail for this and the coming season.
The tailor costumes in all their simple
elegance were most satisfactory and
pleasing to the feminine eve. and the
luxurious and delicate textiles used in
the formation Of costly evening toilets
We're unsurpassed for variety and
beauty. The odd looking draperies
however, hanging limp in long shawl
points, the pannier peplum and tunic
effects We're altogether novel, and il will
doubtless take some time before thew
become familiar enough to become pom
ular.
Young women of leisure are doing
some very pretty ribbon work, apply
ing the very narrow, gathered or ruch-
ed bebe widths to various dress Access
sores Medium wide sashes to wear
with evening toilets are made of satin
RIBBON, design being wrought upon
them, and followed in its intricacies
just as braiding pattern is copied in
soutache. Some of the elaborate mod
els on Paris dresses have the narrow
RIBBON intermixed with gold or silver
thfeads, and many of the designs are
sprinkled with small mock gems. The
young woman whose fingers are deft
may IN these fast lengthening evenings
provide very handsome and UNIQUE or
naments for personal adornment for the
'iihe When theater bodices, dinner
gowns and dancing toilets will be in
constant demand