The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1898-07-03

| much to its elegant effect. Another
handsome toilet was of fawn colored
taffeta brocaded with small clusters OF
scarlet rose buds. The dress was worn
by q lovely looking young Spanish xo-
man with tall, 1.-the figure. large dark
eyes and creamy complexion. Very at
tractive at the flower booth was dress
of pink India muslin printed with deep
er pink roses and foliage made with a
flounced skirt and a bodice almost COW
cred With a Marie Antoinette ilchu
trimmed with Lace edged ruffles of the
muslin, the long scarf ends knotted at
the back of the gown. A remarkably
pretty girl OF the Saxon type. presiding
ait the Venetian booth, wore a dainty
dress of gray nuns yelling with
blouse vest of soft rose colored chiffon
dotted with cut steel seguins. A youth
full matron we'll known in society, who
made a great success of her sachet and
perfumery stall, wore tailor gown or
white yelling striped with mauve satin
and trimmed with cream lace. Her
young sister was dressed in pure white
null, the skirt finished with deep
Spanish founce bordered with a single
band of fine Swiss insertion, the bodice
made with a deep pointed yoke of Swiss
embroidery and gathered full below the
yoke into a narrow belt of the same
trimming. The dress was made over
some sort of soft silk and altogether
it was one of the most appropriate and
becoming gowns worn upon that rather
torrid evening.
The most stylish Leghorn hats are
trimmed with many short, very full
octrict plumes all white, all black or
else in black and white mixtures, black
velvet ribbon ties, the clusters of feath-
erS near the brim and over the crown
and on shepherdeSs shapes. This trim
ming is also carried to the back of the
hat. Pretty Leghorp hats worn recently
by the bridesmaids a, an out of town
wedding We're laden with rose vines,
thorny stems and velvety maiden hair
fern moss about the crown and down
to the very edge of the brim.
White gowns, which are to rage all
summer, are being made up by city
tailors and dressmakers in crepe de
chine, India silk, batiste, mousseline
de sole, grenadine and barege for wa
tering place dresses for summer fetes,
dinners and evening toilets, and in
plain and embroidered muslins, lawns,
linens, veilings Serges, mohair, piquas
and Examines for wear throughout the
day. One of the fancies already noted
is that of making white over the very
fashionable Spanish yellow lin spite of
the war;, as for instance, white crepe
de chine over yellow satin. A dress of
this coloring just made for tall, bril-
liant brunette, is composed of two
kinds of the crepe de chine, one deeply
crinkled and wrought with heavy silky
threads, the other plain. The latter is
used for the tucked and shirred por-
tons of the gown, which is made up
over a very elegant princesse slip Of
Spanish yellow satin, cut half low in
the neck, with only a slight crescent
shaped sleeve puff on the shoulders.
The yoke and sleeves proper are made
entirely of lace of exquisitely fine pat
tern. The lustrous, beautiful satin
CLEANS through the lace and the semi
transparent crepe giving it a lovely iri-
descent effect. A fine knife p1aated
fiounce of the satin is added to the
foundation skirt, and the bottom of the
crepe de chine skirt has a ruche of the
finish. A narrow, very elegant belt
of fine cut emerald, topaz and onyx
stones, trimmed with creamy mock opals
and joined by links in gold filigree Will
be worn with this handsome toilet.
There is this season a beautiful va
riety of soft, sheer woollens, crepes,
India and China silks, taffetas and
x-1,-, n
known as street heliotrope," which is
far more dainty than the original dyes
in that color. Some are shot, others
| striped, dotted or lowered, relieving
| the solid hue with white, cream CT
some other delicate tint or tints. One
pretty design in heliotrOpe shows alter
nate stripes of nuns yelling and crink-
| led white crepe; another is Of very fine
wool, has corded silk stripe in cream,
embossed in shaded heliotrope flowers,
| with bits of pale gold foliage in relief.
A third material in Muscovite silk has
| on it's pinkish heliotrope ground small
bouquets of gold and olive green leaves
in Vatican style. AS a rule the new
heliotropes are becoming.
An Object Lesson to Europe.
to European nations in many ways. But
more than all it teaches them as moth
ing else can certain latent elements
of American character. They knew
that we were cool, calm and deliberate.
but that we possessed the old fashioned
personal courage they doubted; many
believed that individually the Spaniards
were Drawer than we. The Merrimac
affair, however, has probably convinced
them of their error They were amaz-
ed at the performance Of the Oregon
and the immunity that our fleets have
enjoyed from all accidents, in spite
of the strain to guns and machinery
that the war vessels have been sub
jected to; and they were still wonder
ing in what direction the world would
be asstonished next when the Carran2a
letter was taken from under the very
nose of Senior Polo's tried Lieutenant
in Montreal and transmitted to Wash
ington. Now, if there is one thing
that Russia, France, Austria, Germany
and the Balkans pride themselves on it
is their political spy system. Necessity
has caused apparently the best detec-
tive talent in the world to be employed
in it. 1t is doubtful if the Government
police abroad ever heard of the United
States Secret service. We read a great
deal about the intricate spy systems
over there; the subject has been fasci-
natingly handled by noveists. The
United States secret service is not ro-
mantle nett her iS If extensively adyer-