davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

2 N all ages. poets have sung and lovers
 raved, over the eyes, the windows or
 the soul" They are the most deli J cate and complex organs of the body,
 and require the most considerate treatment, and yet how few people take even reasonable care of them. There is no greater misfortune that could befall one than to be deprived of sight Think of 1t! What 1t would mean to you to be shut out from all the beautiful things of the world, to feel but not see the blessed sunshine, never to catch a glimpse of the blue of the heavens. or the variegated loveliness of the flowers: to hear the voices of loved one, while darkness rests upon their faces; for this is what blind ness means, and yet how many people endanger their sight by carelessness and by overtaxing the eyes.
 The mechanism of the eye is all the more wonderful because of the diminu- tive size of the window through which, at a single glance, one comprehends a multi tude of glories reaching out in every di- rection.
 It Is not necessary to enter into any minute description of the anatomy of the eye. Every one knows that it's princi- pal divisions are: The cornea, which is ordinarily known as the white of the eye; the iris, which is the colored circle sur rounding the pupil; the pupil; the retina, plate at the back of the eye which re-
 
 lens from the pupil; and the optic nerve, which is the medium of communication between the external world and the brain.
 The eyelids are curtains completely ex- cluding the eye from the outer world. The margins of these lids are lined with short curved hairs, the eyelasheS, which serve a screen to protect the eyes from dust. Above the eye is bony ridge, also covered with a line of short thick hairs, which carry the precipitation around the eye.
 The eye is a complete optical instru- ment camera of the same kind as that used by artists In making sun pictures, but infinitely more perfect than any in- strument which human ingenuity and skill has yet produced
 The beauty of the face depends very greatly upon the size, color and condition to do with the appearance of the eye and the condition of the eyesight so first of all attention to the general laws of health is necessary together with con- stant care and economy in the use of this delicate organ.
 Washing the eyes, night and morning, in hot water is wonderful tonic. Dry them always with a soft towel, wiping ln- ward toward the nose and never outward, as this has a tendency to collect crows feet Take care in drying to press upon and 1atten the eyeball, as a flattenine of the lens of the eye is considered a sign of approaching old age, and will call for glasses sooner than nature intended.
 Here are q few "don'ts' for those who wish to retain their sight and keep their eyes in healthy conditions:
 Don't read or sew by twilight or Ey a
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

fiickering or insufficient light.
 Don't read in a reclining position.
 Don't read in moving train or car riage.
 Don't read books with very fine print.
 Don't read work, facing the light. The light should fall over the left saoul- der or from behind
 Don't expose the eye too suddenly 70 very brilliant light.
 Don't use your eyes before breakfast, as the strain on the optic nerve VIII SC. riously affect the sight.
 Don't read when extremely weary. And as soon as the eyes begin to tire or mist comes over them. at that instant put aside your book or work.
 Whereas any serious trouble with the eyes should call for an immediate visit to a skilled oculist, there are a few ly used in such difficulties as weak and inflamed eyes, sty, etc.
 An excellent wash for weak and in famed eyes is made from equal parts of witch-hazel and camphor water. Bathe the eyes in this several times day until relieved.
 An alum paste, made by rubbing a small piece of alum into the white of an egg until a curd is formed, Is good for graaHated lids Apply to to the lids Lids of soft linen over the eyes.
 One grain of yellow oxide of mercury mixed with thick, sweet cream will often reduce a very serious inflammation of the lids and Is also excellent for sty.
 The subject of the eyes is not com plete without teW WOrOS as 10 the Cul- tivation of the eyebrows and lashes.
 To keep the eyebrows nice, trim once in a while the tiniest bit and apply a quinne wash made by mixing five grains sulphate of quinine in one ounce of ai- cohol. Brush them frequently with a soft camel's hair brush If a deeper shade is desired claret may be safely used. However do not use this on the eyelashes. To make these grow clip an infinitesmal point and apply a tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut oil and white vaseline. This is also good for the eyebrows.
 And now, remember this, all of you who eye lies chiefly in the expression, and this can be easily cultivated. Nothing will brighten the eyes like bright, orig inal mind. Show interest and bright ness in the face, and I assure you that the eyes will shine and scintillate as did the star of Bethlehem, and will be to all wise men the symbol of a sweet intelli- gent mind, before whose radiance slight Irregularities of feature will instantly apfch
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

of the neck as though Jt were a necklace. One of these ''throats" Of white chihoh dangling from it to which was suspended a large solitaire diamond. The whole had the strange appearance Of being aia- rnond necklace, although made Of chiHon and silk with only one dazzling diamond.
 The high embroidered collarette will al- ways be worn by the thin-necked woman who does not want to show her throat But truth to tell, the thin necked woman looks. better In a low neck dress than the fat one. Any artist will corroborate this. He will tell you that the thin neck IS more. interesting, with its hollows ana curves; than the fat one with it's cushlonss aIld .hagginess. The thin neck IS ntne anu m wilfowy and suggests the fawn. Ihe tat neck is .elephantine. and the artist VIII turn. from 1t in disgust, while ms eys9 y1 will 'longingly seek the thin necked glri %iln. passes by.
 But for the woman who cannot be per, suaded to show her neck on the ground of :uEbecomingness, there are so many high collarettes that one is confused Tn trying to mention them. One Of them -corsfsts of a strip of muIl-only this and there:is set an edging of null embroidery about fourteen inches in length. This makes neck finish for the fichu.
 The strip of null is carried around the neck, crossed in front, taken to the back of. the neck, crossed again and brought around to the front agai In. Here it is tied in knot which may be a four-in-hand or simple tie. The ends are shirred into puffs and finished with a little embroid- cry The null, being thin. is not eumber- some tQ the neck, and 1t is becoming. Of course 1t washes like calico and is there fore a desirable feature of the summer wardrobe.
 So many of these straight null strips are .iyorn as neckties that one wonders If they are not the most popular of all neck trimmings.
 With these low necks. such as were mentioned in the beginning some lati- 'tude in hair dressing is allowed None but a professional beauty can twist her hair in a tight knot at the back of her head. It is absolutely necessary that the hair be curled In the nape of the neck ' and waved around the face and ears
 ! A very becoming summer hair arrange Inent Is formed by waving the hair throughout its entire length The back is tied In the middle of the head and is heaped into a net. The net is pinned at the middle of the head forming an old fashioned chignon. The chignon fails low enough to cover the back of the neck Two little follow-me-lads curls are
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

read at least half dozen advertisements that claim exactly the same thing as this one. that you have sent me, and they each and every one of them claim to be the "only sure cure The quotations In your letter were taken from a book that was published twenty-five years ago, so the remedies suggested are somewhat be- hind the times, and you will notice that each assertion is qualified with the words Ut is said" I am afraid I cannot hold out to you anything more comforting than l have said to you in previous let ters. Is the growth too heavy for the electric needle? I should stop -.orrying and experimenting if I were you, and just make myself so charming and attractive that people would never think of my one facial defect; and, besides, doubt if 1t is half as apparent to others as 1t seems to be to you.
 TROUBLES-It really Is discouraging to be called upon to prescribe for some one who has tried almost every remedy under the sun" and to no avail. I hon estly believe that the orange flower slCn food, which 1 have several times given recipe for would help you. But, as you say, creams do not seem to agree with your skin I wish you would try this, which is splendid for the skin:
 A READER-I answered your letter as soon as l possibly could, and you no doubt, received it shortly after mailing your second one to me. Letters, to re- ceive an answer in the following Sun
 
 by Tuesday night.
 BELLE-The skin food is made from tho, following ingredients:
 Spermaceti, r. ounce.
 White wax, F. ounce.
 Sweet almond oil, l ounce.
 Lanoline, l ounce.
 Cocoanut oil, 1 ounce.
 Tincture of benzoin, drops.
 Orange flower water, ounce.
 Melt the first five ingredients in DOT celain kettle When thoroughly incor- porated remove from the fire and add the benzoin and orange flower water, stir ring rapidly until cold Put in little white jars. l know of nothing better in Der milk, made after this recipe: Oil of sweet almonds, ounces; fresh cucumber juice Cboiled), 10 ounces: white castle soap. K ounce Dissolve in ounces of essence of cucumbcrs and 1-20 ounce of simple tincture of benZon. Cut the cu- cumbers in small pieces, neither peeline nor removing the seeds, and pour on just enough water to start them to cooking When cooked soft and mushy strain through piece of muslin. You can make the essence yourself by taking one and one-half ounces of alcohol and one and one-half ounces of the boiled cucumber juice Add to this your castillo soap and let it stand for several hours until the soap has entirely dissolved Then put in the cucumber juice which is strained and cold. Shake well so that all are thor oughly mixed and then add oil of sweet almonds and the benZoin stirring for some time. Put in bottle and shake well before using. Apply 1t at night, let ting it dry on the skin and rinsing away in tepid water the following morning
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
MILITaRY TRIMMINGS.

EI R ILITARY trimmings for women s UWN wear are being manufactured / A N for the fall gowns, and a few
 fashionable girls have got hold of some of them. They are epaulets, ad- jutant's cordings and bandmaster's array of gold braid and trappings One girl has a cloth suit of hussar blue, with an Eton jacket with slender black revers and straps of gold and black braid on each side, as well as at the wrists of the very small sleeves. The black collar and belt are fastened with gilt buttons, and a vest of yellow chamois is fastened with smaller gilt buttons. The skirt has graduated lengths of the black and gold braid on each side
 l have already mentioned the fact that
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
@ NEW WAYS TO DRESS THE NECK IN SUMNER x

pinned at one side. These curls are al- most universally becoming.
 Few women are courageous enough now to brush the hair back from the ears. No artist ever drew a fancy picture which showed the top of the ears. Only the lobe peeps out, as shown in the mod els of Raphael and Gainsborough those two painters who knew a woman when they saw one. The curls can be few or many, but they are more becoming to the wearer than the plain, bare ears.
 curled in a bang, and pulled down over the forehead a la Princess of Wales. This style Is decidedly becoming to women who are a little past their youth.
 Low necks are most becoming when woman's head is a mass of curls, and the woman who selects be- coming when a womans head is a mass of curls, and the woman who selects be- coming neck arrangements must look well also to the curls which are to trim her face. HELEN WARD.
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
YOUR CHOICE IN DRESSES.

@RHIS dress can be made so that ie
 will cost $50, or you can get 1t up
 for $S. The materials in case you
 want an expensive dress are: Five yards of the newest importation of grena- dine, which comes at s4 50 per yard; two yards of heavy white satin. which is to be set under the box plaited border of the overdress, and a width of Persian silk for the front of the dress. You will need as many inches of Persian silk as the skirt is long. One width will make the vest and front panel. Border the Grecian squares with silk braid and line the en- tire dress with oil-boiled taffsta.
 To get this up for $S buy: Six yards of crepon at 50 cents a yard, forty inches of shot silk for the front. Instead of silk braid use baby ribbon around the squares and in place of heavy white satin under the squares use China silk. The shot silk is used for a panel and vest instead of the Persian silk.
 In one case the dress is made of grena- dine, Persian silk, white satin and silk braid and is silk lined.
 In the other the same effect is produced with crepon, shot silk China silk and ha- by ribbon and percaline for lining.
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
NEW STYLES BaIR DRESSING.

@ OCIETY Is divided this summer be-
 tween French and English hair 0 dressing. French hair dressing Is
 pompadour The hair, if not nat urally curly, is puffed over the forehead and around the face, after which 1t Is brought up into a big knot on the top of the head. For evening 1t is decorated with narrow ribbon and sprays of silk perfumed flowers.
 The English coiffure, on the other hand, begins by parting the hair in the middle. It is puffed on each side of the part and is draped in such a way as to form big knot low in the nape of the neck. This gives low forehead and covers the ears becomingly.
 It will be noticed that most of the new styles of hair dressing are SO arranged as to cover the ears, after the fashion ,originated by Cleo de Merode.
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
OATMEAL LOTION.
] tablespoonfuls fine oatmeal.

TWO CaDleSpOO01ulS me OdFnnSat.
 Boil and strain. When cold add:
 One desSertspoonful of wine (white Rhine preferred) and the juice of one lemon.
 The oatmeal will give nourj.shment the wine will remove the greasy appearance and the lemon will whiten. Or, you might try first, the plain oatmeal water, which is spoken of in my reply tC 4 Friend.
 JUSTINE Y-AS you did not give me your address I could not send personal reply I always object to recommending anything with which to dye the hair or the eyebrows. It gives one such an un- cleanly, vulgar appearance, and yet know that dark, heavy brows do add to ones good looks. Walnut dye Is often used for the purpose, but it is very apt to stain the skin. I think I should pre- fer the callnut wash, which has been used for many ages by the Moorish women. Here is the formula: Gallnuts, 121a grams; sulphate of iron, PIP grams; water, To grams. Boil the nuts for half an hour. Strain through fine muslin and add iron. Roll and reduce two-thirds Keep well corked. and apply with small brush, taking care not to let the liquid touch the skin or get into the eyes.
 HELENE-I do not believe that lano- line will induce a growth or hair on the face more than any other oily substance. If you like you can increase the amount of benZofn to ten or fifteen drops. l would not advise more than the latter amount Moles vary so in character that I always think 1t is best to consult phy- stefan or a skilled dermatologfst before treating them However, I think yours can be removed by the application of a strong acid. This will form scab over the mole which in a short time will fall off taking the mole with it. l would
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
USES OF INSERTION.

n r OTHING sets better upon cloth TN than insertion. This comes by the l yard in all colors and costs from
 $1 50 per yard upward. It Is wide and yard goes great way upon the dress.
 An old cloth dress can be made very att tractive indeed with insertion. Now that 1t is no longer the fashion to have plain
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

EDITH-Please don't apologize for writing to me so often. I will cheerfully answer as many questions as you please to put to me. That Is what l am here for.
 All advertisements sound plausible, but there is so much chaTlatanry in that sort of thing that I think, as a rule, the more high-sounding they are and the more miracles they profess to perform the safer it is to be wary of them. I have
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14
GO TAKE CARE OF THE EYES.
MDe 0
By MDe. Hygeio.

apartments is for he tof all beauty and dp Is d invited wiue i d Sign d all c1mmu niaton Nine Hyge,Th s Francis
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

the washing gowns this year. Here is one 1 must not omit to tell you about: A rose-tinted linen of the same make that the most exquisite pink colorng, have seen made with three rounded f1ounces on the skirt, piped with white,
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

fastened with three handsome buttons of a light green color, and the revers of satin were covered with tiny tuckings; the collar was pointed. This 'panne" will be used as parts of entire costumes, and is very effective.
 1 have already spoken of the variety of
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

The natural arsenic in the cucumber makes this a splendid face bleach, and the beauty of it is that 1t is perfectly harm less. For answer to your third question | read answer to Loleta in Sunday Call of AJe1ISt '
The San Francisco call., 1898-08-14

. EW YORK, Aug. 12.-Of sum- mer evenings I sing-and of the many little arrangements to be worn upon the neck.
Daily camera., 1898-08-05
Ward Mipes.

The Newmarket mine at Ward has
opened a body Of ore in the east DRIFT
from l8 TO ~ inches wide, about one.
third of which is smelter ore, and has
just shipped car load of ore and con-
centrates. Another Leyner drill il to be
added to the mine plant, and another
Whitley table to the mill. The mill is
making a very high percentage of saw
ing of the pyritic ores.
The Northwestern. Great Western and
White Wings lode claims at Quigley'
vile, were located by William Gavin
carry last spring and he has opened up a
20 foot vein on the Northwestern, which
pans free gold.
The Adit tunnel at Ward, last week
uncovered another vein Of $3.50 ore.
The Nj Wot crosscu, is now in 200 feet.
The main tunnel is in $500 feet and the
Dew Drop upraise is in IS feet.-Denver
Republican.
Daily camera., 1898-08-05
Regarding the Oregon.

Here's compliment we'll placed.
Some weeks ago Secretary Long sent a
letter to the Union iron works of San
Francisco commencing that company
for the Oleson's notable success. In re.
ply the secretary has received note OF
acknowledgement, in which il is said:
american designed and American
built, she has offered a new lesson to
older nations regarding the functions of
a b,ttleship, and we are proud in the
fact that under the most trying circum.
stances it has been demonstrated to your
satisfaction and approval that our con-
tract has been well and conscientiously
performed. But, with all this. we be
lieve that much of the success Of all yes.
sells is based on their intelligent hand.
ling by their skilled officers, subordinates
and men. without which their usefulness
would be greatly impaired, if not wholly
destroyed" Denver News.
Daily camera., 1898-08-05
Didn't Know 1t Was Ore.

Thomas Smith of this city has Sc.
cured lease on the Orphan Boy mine
of Boulder county and is now working
the property with force of four men.
This mine affords an illustration Of keep
ing exactly informed regarding the char.
acter Of the rock encountered in mining
operations. and of the value of the SER
vices of good assayer. The owners
and others have been working the prop
erty for several years and have accumu.
lated fair s;zed dump of waste rock
and low grade ore. A few weeks ago ].
D. Caldon was at the mine and in look
ing over the dump found some very fine
samples of tellurlum. A more careful
examination disclosed the fact that a
considerable quantity of this ore had
been thrown aside as worthless. When
told of the fact the owners were at hrst
incredulous. but were convinced by the
assays. and are now saving up rich sam.
Piles OF ore showing free gold that are
being sent as specimens to the Eastern
stockholders Of the company. Mr.. Smith
Is practical miner who will not be like
ly to let very great deal of gold get
away from him.-Denver Republican.
Daily camera., 1898-08-05
Kaiser wi,h.im.. Al. 4. Life.

| have known few mer so free from
brag or hypocrisy as was the Ger
mar prince when he ascended the
imperial throne. On the Christmas i'm
mediately preceding the death OF his
noble father he wrote a letter to a
friend 1900 miles away. l have no
right to make this letter public, but
shall be forgiven for this much: The
writer dwelt earnestly upon the year
that was closing, and particularly re-
ferred to the problems Of the future,
little dreaming that he was the one
who would be called upon to assist
In their solution. In this letter he con-
fessed that the ambition of his life was
to improve the condition Of the work
ing people, to reconcile the rasping
conflict between those who have and
those who have not, and above all, to
make the Christian religion real thing.
He went on jokingly to lament that
some Of our American millionaires did
not see At to leave him ilegacies for
this purpose; for he was, he said, al
ways hampered for want Of necessary
funds.-Poultney Bigelow, in Century.
Daily camera., 1898-08-05
FOOD ABOARD A wARsH1p.
rhe SAAs IL Provided for Every hAa
4, ~ That Which Goes to the
Admirable Table.

A man who has just returned from
visit to . United States warship, on
which his son is stationed, complains
Of the food dealt out to the men, and
adds that it is not as good as served
on the officers tables. Asseveral hum
dred Chicago boys are now serving
their country aboard warships their
friends at home may be interested in
knowing the nature Of their food.
Every man aboard a government
ship receives the same amount and
class OF food, be he q landsman or an
admiral. Its financial equivalent is
nine dollars per month, and no au-
thority below an act of congress can
change the quantity, unless in emer-
gency cases, when the captain mayor
der short rations.' The bill of fare at
sea for one week includes salt pork,
beans, picked beef or salt horse"
as it is known on shipboard, hardtack.
coffee, sugar, pickles, salt, pepper,
-four, raisins, vinegar and molasses.
So many ounces are dealt out to each
man, and if he ever goes hungry it is
from some other cause than insult
cheney of food.
Each mess has its own cook, usually
n landsman, who, besides being re-
lieved from deck duty, receives his own
board free by having his rations COM
muted, that is, drawing nine dollars a
month instead of the ships provisions.
If he be handy at cooking he is usually
given the money equivalent OF an e1-
ira ration and sometimes ration and
q half.
Breakfast will consist of ''scouse,"
or bread hash, which 10 very palatable;
good coffee, with sugar, but no milk;
hardtack. or set biscuits, which are
made of the best flour and in taste and
hardness resembles the Bent water
crackers. At noon there is plenty Of
good pork and beans, beam soup, coffee,
pickles, hardtack and such extra
dishes as the cook can prepare with
his limited means. Supper consists Of
what is left from dinner made into
soups, hashes, ETC., with bread and
coffee and pickles on the side.
The other foodstufis first mentioned
are served on other days. Fresh bread
is always on hand, if the cook knows
how to make it. and he generally
learns. Duff. pnddings and like dishes
are served with molasses. When the
ship is in port fresh beef, potatoes,
vegetables Of sll kinds are served three
times . week.
II man could always have a. good
food as the American nman-of-warsman
gets he could count himself fortunate.
He would grow fat and never know the
pangs OF indigestion. Chicago Even
ing News. |