The times., 1898-10-09

and some exceedingly bewitching exam
| pies of soft, wide satin-fnished felts are
seen trimmed with velvet and plumes.
| and very gay roses in the rear. Nearly
| all the wide eaved dark hats have a mar
| row fold of velvet running about the in
| side edge of the brim; this velvet
| bright color, such as turquoise blue on
| sapphire blue felt, yellow on a brown
| felt and so on.
One remarkable phase of hat decoration
IS displayed by some prettily colored
felts, having low, small crowns and soft
| brims of moderate width. The decoration
for these is all znassed exclusively on one
side of the brim, leaving the crown and
remainder of the brim absolutely simple
| Now the consequence of this sounds far
more gruesome in the telling than
in reality, for the felt is usually of a pale
color. relieved by cordings of black vel
vet, describing many close-set circles on
| he hat The narrow black lines turn
| ing round and round on the light brim
and crown seem almost trimming enough,
50 when q knot of black velvet with u
| twist of tulle and clump of small os-
| trich tips, is perched on the very edge
| of one side of the brim, an original but
not unbeautiful effect is the result.
number of truly attractive hats have
! their crowns made wholly of the softly
toned breasts of birds that would make
an Audubonite weep, and the brim is
/ rucked tulle, though the majority of our
hats are solid and substantial 10 a de-
gree The Audubonite might well weep
also over the too evident fact that with
the best will in the world to trim hats
| with wings, they have desisted in most
cases. simply because there seems to be
no more wings, nor heads, nor tails to
use. Deprived of crisp songsters plum
age the makers of hats have recoiled on
truly hideous decorations of velvet and
silk, and a few ibis and argus-eyed
pheasant quills. They lay ponderous vel
vet sashes about heavy felt hats with
lavishness of hand that promises early
badness TO those who viii meekly sub
NIT their heads TO this hot and weighty
wear.
1t is a relief to turn from these apo
plectic hats TO the airy, gracious little
mantels that are wrought out for win
ter wear TO the theater, concerts, etc, or
wherever bit of frou-frou muffling is
needed at the throat. Net fiounces, of
varying widths, edged with ostrich feath-
er trimming, is what they are composed
Of OF course, they are cut shawl-shap-
ed, and the pretty custom is to put black
founces on foundation of some highly
colored silk. So closely set are the ruff
fies that when the mantel hangs demure-
ly from its wearers shoulders it appears
sober enough. Let it be moved ever so
slightly, however, and CLEANS of scarlet
or copper yellow taffeta are seen.
A goodly number of such wraps are
lined with some light fur and fail narly
to the knees, and to further lift all accu-
sation of somberness from them, loop
ed chain of colored beads encircles the
neck at the base of the Medici collar
and forms clasp under the wearer's
chin.
Consider the younger generation how
Ii is growing this winter most rapidly
into very advanced tailor-made fashion.
Oh, mothers! With the little girls this is
most noticeable, for they are as close of
skirt and as braided of body as their
elders. AS to the small boy, there are
few articles of his fathers wardrobe he
does not possess in miniature. 1t is true
of an evening he only wears dinner
jacket, as claw-hammer coat-tails are
not yet his, but very impressive is his
little bell-crowned silk hat and the am
ply frocked coat in which he trots to
church, to family weddings and TO such
functions as the boy under fifteen is enti-
tied 10 participate in.
The military aytivities of the time are
also reflected in the juvenile raiment, for
the knee breeches of him who still takes
an interest in mumblety-peg are by
choice of a rich blue cloth and show
band of narrow black braid down the out
side of either leg. The coat is cut on the
pattern of an officers fatigue jacket,
hooking up snugly from hip line to chin,
and this, with dark blue fatigue cap,
braided in black, gives a fair idea of
what the approved autumn school suit
should be.
Straight buttoned dark blue cloth coats,
with couple of capes, are what the lit
tie men wear over these suits on chill
days, and to further emphasize the ex-
school boys, when in full dress, wear
shirts that have board bosoms and lofty
stiff collars. a touch of gayety is lent in
scarlet velvet waistcoats with gilded but
| tons that the older masculines might pro-
ftably adopt, just as some Of the small
| dinner jackets have their lappers faaed
with sky blue or bright red satin. Alto
gether, the little boy is very pleasing
| object to contemplate these days, even If
| he is tri1e progressive.
Of the bridal dresses given In the set Of
sketches, one, and undoubtedly the pref
| tiest, is made of white duchess silk and
| chiffon The chiffon forms the yoke of
| the waist and shows as an under petit
| coat, and it is rucked in close-set gath
cred pleats. The lower half of the body.
| the sleeves and the top skirt are all re-
| lieved by a decoration of silver passemen-
| terie running in Louis XIV pattern and
! the veil of tulle is adjusted TO the hair
| by a wreath of white roses.
| A companion dress shows how Linn
erick lace, a little pearl trimming and
white feur de mai silk can be happily