The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-09-18
UTAH GIRL IN ITALY.
Miss Rose Hartwell Describes the
People and Their Customs.

the continent, to her sister, Mrs. &C.
neva A. Kimball of this city:
No. 8 Piazza st. Agostino, San
Guiniguano.-Dear Sister: We returned
last evening from Siena, where we had
most delightful time, and only re-
turned so soon because we were not
equipped with apparel for longer stay.
We left here last Monday at a. m.
and drove to Poggibousi, where we
took the train for Siena, about one
hour distant by rail. We walked up
| from the station to the pension, and
leaving our bags, rushed off to the
duomo (cathedraD where there was to
be some fine music. 1t was crowded
with contadini, but we pushed our way
until we were within hearing, but it
was so hot and smelly that we did
not stay long. However, we stayed
long enough for some one to help him
self to the contents of my pocket. I
had but a small purse with some
change, about IS cents, in my pocket,
and kept my hand OMIT nearly all the
time, but in spite of my care some one
watched his opportunity and took the
purse. My first feeling was, relief to
think 1 would not have TO think of it
any more; my next was to feel sorry
that the person who took it would be
so disappointed; then afterwards, when
l could see things l could buy for 8
Ira, l was angry. Very nice people
kept the pension, and we talked more
Italian than we have before in Italy.
The most important thing, though,
was our chance of seeing the Patio
from the balcony of the Chigi palace,
and we had the honor CD of talking
with the MarcheSe Chigi and his son,
and of eating an ice and drinking a
lemonade served by liveried footmen,
ETC.
The PABLO is one of the Oldest games
or customs of the SieneSe, and has been
kept up for centuries without failing.
Siena is divided into wards called con-
trade, and each contrade has its own
horse in this race, and although at any
other time of the year the different
contrade may be friendly enough, at
the time of this festival the most bit
ter enmity prevails, and it is only with
the greatest vigilance of the police
that bloodshed is prevented. In each.
ward there is "a little church
where the horse is taken in and blessed
by the priest, who SprinkleS the horse
and rider with holy water to keep
them from accident. Then the jockey,
wearing the colors of his ward, and
preceded by the standard bearer,
marches through the streets. They all
assemble together in the piazza for a
good time before the hour for the
race, and here the balloting and bet
ting goes on. The large piazza del
campo, or Vittohe Emanuele, begins
filing about 4 O'Clock and before
there are at least 10000 people in the
piazza, which is of large irregular
shape, containing the course. with
some sharp angles, on the outside, and
place for the populace within. You
can imagine the danger of turning
these sharp corners with horses, with
out any idea of order or control. The
start is made in a helter-skelter way.
and the run is three times around the
course. At the corner, which 1 have
marked in my diagram as danger
Gus" the horses sometimes bolt and
go down street, turning so suddenly
the rider is thrown against the wall
covered with mattreSSeSto protect his
life. Sometimes, the horse in turning
too closely, strikes the lamp post and
horse was killed this time in the trial
race. Before the race there is a pro-
cession which begins promptly at 6.
The great mangia (the name of the bell
of the Dalazzo Dublico), strikes the
hour and Immediately the band be-
gins heading the procession and play
ing to the accompaniment of this most
tuned bell. After the band
comes the page of the capitano of the
people; then the captain followed by
the representatives of the different con-
trade, dressed in most beautiful colors
of silk and velvet. Two of each COM
pany go through a most graceful per
Torrance with their handsome silk
flags, every time stopping under our
balcony and touching their hats to the
company CD. In this
is the car taken from the
in one of their battles, and
on it are tremendously grouped the !
colors of the contrade. 1t is said to be |
the only time they are seen amicably /
together. After the procession comes |
the race. and the man who wins is
hurried from the grounds by the police !
to protect his life, so great is the ex-
element for a few moments: but it is |
all over in a short time, and their |
anger is as short-lived as it is easily !
aroused. The patio, or banner which |
gives it's name to the races, is handed /
over to the winners, and the whole /
next day it is paraded through the |
streets followed by admiring crowds.
Looking down from the balcony we |
Jaw a perfect sea of leghorn hats, all
lew for the oc, 9sion. 1t is curious to
notice the differt Ice few miles make.
Here in San Guiniguano it is a disgrace
or contadina to wear hat; she al
ways wears a colored handkerchief, but
he country gentry around Siena save
I'll they can to get a new Leghorn for
he PABLO. They are worn by babies
f years and from that age to wom-
n of 80. In almost all cases unbecom-
ng, it is only when they are old (the
ats) and are something the color of
he faces beneath, that they have
omething of picturesqueness
The son of the Marchese was there
he day of the PABLO and was very nice
o us. He showed us some beautiful
Id leather hangings. covering the
7alls of two rooms, and also number
f other valuable antiquities; but
hough the rooms We're filled with ele-
ant things, there was the presence
lso of shoddy and cheap-looking
Kings, showing a lack of taste or
Judgment. We found the same pecul-
irity in several of the old palaces that
-e visited. The Saracini, one of the
)oking furniture and curtains, very
ad copies of the old masters, side by
de with heavy, rich-looking furniture
nd hangings, and some originals of
'urer, Botnelli and others. The floors
re nearly all common red tiles or
rick, with now and then a piece of
heap carpet. We also visited Mt. Oh
-eto. which is drive of four hours
ON Siena. 1t is a suppressed mon
stery, where once there were 300
Ionks, and now only five are allowed
, stay. There are some celebrated
escoes to be found here and one can
IT permission to remain and copy We ,
fought of doing So but have zen up .
Mould like to return to Siena for at
asst a month for the language. I