The record-union., 1898-12-18

! tons. The high arched collar matches
the revers.
There is a revival this season of 9
style of ornamentation used, when pow
! der and patches and cooked hats and
/ knee breeches were the order of the
| day. This is the outlining of embossed
velvet figures, with silk embroidery. II
has been used upon the fronts of some
very elegant gowns designed for New
Years Day, but principally upon the
| fronts of ball and opera wraps. The
work thus far has been made to order
by hand, in iridescent beads, sequins
shaded silks, and chenille 1t is, there
fore, expensive, but the effect is novel
Women in ordering special garments
| for special wear can have their own
selected devices carried out, with col
ors, fringes, buttons and oddly shaped
| ornaments.
A toque made wholly of dark mink
| turns up in a semicircle over the face
and is finished in the center above the
forehead with an aigrette-like trimming
| of point de Venise lace held by buckle
! of French brilliants, and this is set in
the center of a rosette Of Italian red
| velvet with a bird of paradise poised on
the left side, and curving plumage
| sweeping to the shoulder.
Louis XIV. coats for reception and
! opera wear, also small jackets with
! rounded fronts, and entire Overdresses
and redingote-shaped tea gowns are
made of woven guipure lace, forming
a single, perfectly shaped, and joined
garment, which is worn over a satin
model its precise shape. Some of the
| elegant tea-gOWnS made of this lace
are oddly finished with choux and plait-
! ings of black tulle, with long scarf ends
| of the same edged with deep crimped
frills. The ends reach to the hem of
| the underskirt.
| The hats that milliners consider their
masterpieces are even larger than the
| picture hats of the summer, and their
width across the front is excessive, ow-
! ing to the very long feathers curving
! right and left above the brim, which
| serve to exaggerate the width of the
j hat itself The bonnets and hats made
from Paris, but they certainly cannot
| be recommended from a sanitary point
| of view.
Red in very glowing colors, from
! poppy to deep "jacque" rose and Bur
gundy shades, is more than ever worn
/ this season both here and abroad in
: hats, little French bonnets, fur-trimmed
! jackets, capes, redingotes, tea-gowns,
evening toilets and even gloves and silk
petticoats. There are women who
would render themselves unpleasantly
conspicuous if they ventured to wear
even so much as a cherry tie under
| their chins. There are others who
would look less conspicuous than these
| if they appeared in a costume entirely
red. We cannot say that it is only the
brunette or the blonde who will look
well in red.
The French skirts for the winter are
extremely varied in style. The circu-
lar fiounce we have had with us for
{ two seasons, but there are constantly
! being added new models cut in three
and five as well as two parts, which
give particularly pretty flare to the
! dip skirt. The circular model with a
tablier or pointed overdress is very
| graceful, especially for those who re-
quire the effect of long lines; however,
there are shapes and designs to suit
, every figure.
In marked contrast to the sweeping
cape models that fall in curving flounces
| over the dress skirt are the graceful
little pelerines, and stole-fronted or
fichu-shaped collets of sable, sealskin.
chinchilla, Persian lamb, sea otter and
very dark mink, or soft f1eecy marten,
these of one fur alone, or combined
with a contrasting pelt with fur-tail
fringes to match and often further en-
riched with silk cord and bead appli-
| ques, points, and medallions of very
expensive passementerie.
!
There are blonde women who look
| badly in a stiff, high, white linen coll
lar; there are brunettes with olive COM
plexions who look well in them There
are those who look conspicuous in deep
est mourning. When red is becoming
and suits the wearer, it is generally a
remarkably good selection. Therefore.
IL one Is III QOuDC tnlS season as to
whether it would be best to get another
black coat. or tan, or gray one to wear
| with the handsome black gown, per-
haps the very thing to brighten and i'm
prove the appearance would be a ruby
| red jacket, with black Persian lamb re-
vers and collar, with black braid ap-
| plique trimmings elsewhere. 1t must
be decided, however, by experiment.
The sheath form about the hips is
universal however, and imperative for
all skirts, whatever may be the shape
and arrangement below, and every sort
| of frill, fiounce, strap, band and buckle
trimming, point, panel, plating, or any
other kind of decoration that can give
a frou-frou effect around the skirt, is
| notably and decidedly in evidence
| Ladies' tailors have taken very read
lily TO the new skirts that are sheath
| shaped on the front and sides, and made
with underfolding fullness at the back,
| where they as rule are made to fasten