Evening star., 1898-11-05
How to Make Old Ones Into Favored
New Shapes.
EASY FOR THE UP-fO-DAfE WOMAN
Renovatiag is an Art Worthy the
Best Attention.
SOME JAUN MODELS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

!
| NEW YORK. November 3, 1898
| Before you buy new winter coat-if you
are seriously considering such a s,ep-look
| In your garret lin these modern days your
tiny store room in The CELLAR and take out
of your cedar chest otherwise trunk per-
! TUNED with camphor) tie heavy winters
coat of several winters ago, which you
have hated to give or throw away because
| 1t was so soft and warm. Consider caro-
| 1uliy Its good points. 1t is not too long,
even though it be three-quarters length or
even long ulster, and whether it be dou-
ble-breasted and tght-ftting or double
breasted with loose or box fronts, it Is
immaterial All are worn. .
Lucky may you count yourself if it is d
very old-fashioned coat, for then il will
have two double plaits in the back and
large pocket flaps on each hip, and will
also be decorated with large pearl buttons.
| Nor need you count yourself wholly with
out remedy if it is a three-quarter coat
with ripple skirt put on just below the
waist line. The seam caused by this ripple
erect did seem hopeless at first, but some
coats have just appeared, the model CT
| which has this self same seam on the side
70 be sure the back of this coat is cut in
one piece, but that is immaterial. With
an the braid and buttons of tolay the fact
that the seam goes all about the coat will
not be noticeable Have the Hippe taken
of and put back with the fullness in the
back, where it should be thrown into two
side piatts. The fronts should be cut into
rounding instead of sharp points. One way
of cutting the front of this years coat is
to nave only shcrt basque the front.
and then have the sides slope off. beginning
little behind the second bias. This IS
modification of the Louis XVI effect, which
is most splendfdly shown in such rich ma
terials as silk and velvet
1t Is the new rounding fronts which rem
| alterations NJ he ats
are quite short in front. with rounded cor
ners and slope gradually into a long pos
tllllon back. This style is not becoming
| 10 all figures, but one can arrange many
| notifications Of it. and although il has an
| old-fashioned air. that Is what we are all
striving for just now. 1t certainly has the
merit OF rendering matter of compare
tive ease the cutting over of old coats into
| new and favored shapes
| Ihe sleeves Of soma Of the older coats are
not SO very far out this year Of our Lord.
| founce may be quite out OF 6ate-perhaps
impossible. according to your tailor-for
sometimes those sleeves were scanned in
the mutton leg above the elbow. But moth
| ing Is Impossible il the cloth is good one
| and you must convince the tailor of this
fact. After little experience in the won
derful manner in which good material may
| be turned and twisted YOU will learn thai
| by turning a sleeve upside ,lown-as is
often done by skillful renovator-even
| seams can be eliminated
A Coat Tale and Moral.
Speaking of renovating reminds me of the
sad little tale of a coat which was made
over but not dipped, and thereby hangs a
moral for ali prudent women. The coat
was blue serge and there was likewise
skirt to match. Neither of the garments
were lined, and together they made an ex-
| cellent gown for wear in the hot weather
with shirt waists. The owner thereof was
| trying to live in New York on a moderate
yet not ungenerous salary, and therefore
| found 1t needfui to resort to many ex-
| ped1eltS to appear we'll dressed and vet
have enough silver left to pay for a hall
bed room in a livable quarter Of the town.
When the third season daWned in which
she had arrayed herself in this serge she
| decided firmly 1t must do for another sum-
mer. So she hied herself to a faithful and
reasonable German tailor she had discov-
cred on modest side street. and gav4
| orders that her skirt should be pressed and
| rebound, and her jacket pressed and the
sleeves reduced from their over-generous
| proportions. At the sleeves the man shook
his head. They were parted in the middle
| by seam which went to the elbow, and on
| each side of which protruded the large
| masses of cloth which decorated our arms
| two short years ago. Yet those sleeves,
when next they met their owners view,
| were small, plain coat sleeves, with only
| seam on the lower side of the sleeve, which
| locked like a cuff, and was rather an ad-
dstion. The tailor was radiant at his sue
|
| coat into the bright sun. Then she saw
that even the best of serge will fade in the
| course of three summers suns, and the
sleeves. which had been turned upside
| down. We're several different colors. 1t was
| too late to go to the dyer then she
could not run the risk of shrinking the di-
! minfshed proportions of her garments. Dye
| ing would have cost a sum which would
| have brought the expense of renovation to
| a point which would have made a hole i'll
ten-dollar bill instead of a five as was
| actually the case but it would have made
| the suit new and fresh and modern in
| every way and suitable for all occasions.
while it was it had to be saved for rainy
| days and wOrkadays. Anything that is
worth doing is worth doing well, and one
economical woman has learned the neces-
sity of finding whether her cloth is in need
| of dipping before she tries cutting 1t over.
Making over nowadays is art in it
| SELF and here in this city thare are regu-
lar companies organized for the purpos1 of
| estimating on and making repairs to wo-
| mems gowns A gown which is in the first
place a good one and then is properly made
! over, and first properly dyed, If need be. is
| as good as new-far better than mex
| pensive new gown. But making over no
| longer means ripping a garment to pieces,
| having it dipped in some dye at home and
then made up by some cheap seamstress
| who is hardly clever at even her price. 1t
| means preserving the originally good lines
| OF a well-cut garment, and having only
| the accessories in the way of sleeves, col
! lar, etc, altered, and skillfully altered at
| that Where the original cut is good
| enough to warrant making over a garment
| it is almost always quite safe to take it to
| sCme humble little tailor who does rebind-
| ing and cutting garments for women. He
will charge quite enough, but smart tailors
| would make it cost almost as much as a
new gown.
| Rounded Corners the Latest.
! By far the newest and jauntest model
seen this fall departs from the rounded cor
| ners which promise to be so much.
| 1t is a short coat with sharp points. 1t fits
| quite tightly everywhere, but begins to flare
| out at the front bias into these two sharp
points. which come little below the waist
| Then it has a high, rolling collar and two
| rather wide, pointed reveres, which seem to
| spring out little for they are not folded
flat against the chest. They are long, too
| coming half way down the front of the
coat. This model is seen in dark red mel
ton cloth with reveres of Persian lamb
| about the collar and bottom of the coat. 1t
| is needless to say it is not inexpensive when
| d. and trp in