The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

II II sian in the way of millinery, dress
 making and the little odds and ends of feminine attire which go so far toward making an entirely complete and fashionable woman, Paris has sent us an ultimatum, so far as the ever-useful sailor hat Is concerned, which our girls, ever wide awake to that which will en- nance their beauty have received with distinguished consideration.
 To be up to date the girl of the period must not wear the usual plain, severe, coarse or fine straw sailor, so closely copying that of her brothers or husband, but must add a little finishing touch of femininity to 1t, which is certainly very charming and extremely becoming to nearly every style of face. It is an aC- knowledged fact that nearly every won- an looks well In a sailor, and if the plain ribbon banded straw is so fetching how much more attractive will be the latest style sent to us by our French sisters?
 The new sailor Is more stylish and up to date when made of fine French chip straw. The crown Is little higher than the ordinary mannish hat of coarse, rough straw, and the brim little broad CT in front than at the back. Bouillon- nes of chiffon or silk surround the crown. either of white, yelled with figured black lace, or all of white. with chenille dotted net covering the soft, fluffy chiffon or silk roll.
 Then there are large double Mercury wings spread across the front of the hat, of soft chiffon or silk. This trimming may be varied to suit the face the hat Is intended to set off by being placed at the side. But the full white Mercury wings are an indispensable part of chic sailor for this season.
 The back of the hat Is filled in with soft choux of white chiffon or roses, which is a matter of taste; but to be al f,, bo cfxyt ha hQn tC O left untrimmed. Another fayorite method of transforming the mannish sailor into a womanly one is to trim 1t with one of the long. soft Roman scarfs so fashion. able at present and to form full knots of the soft Italian silk at the side, from which in coquettish tills will protrude the inevitable white Mercury wings. These wings must be on the hat or the style Is gone.
 It is not alone sufficient to have your sailor hat, but the girl who adopts this pretty mode must also os adopt b'ob the ne ItS neT it. These wells are but one of the many revivals of which 1niss spring and sum mer have been so prolific. Nearly every perhaps her grandmother.s,. box or laces and find the fac-simile of the newest '98 veil
 Straight across the top. 1t Is finished with beading through which elastic in narrow ribbon Is run, by which 1t can be gathered around the crown of the hat It's bottom is circular shaped, so that when 1t is in 1t falls below the chin in front and slopes up even with the hat brim in the back. It has a handsomely designed bor- der, sometimes in black applique on the white net but this latter Is rather outre and too pronounced for the ultra refined woman. .
 A still more startling novelty which Is designed for wear with the sailors trimmed with Roman scarfs. is the veil of pink tule with large, medium sized and small white chenille dots. This pink veil fS certainly great beauty enhanCer, but one which 1 doubt will have long life.
 Now, to be complete in all the glory of her summer paraphernalia, the 9S girl