The herald., 1898-12-25

NEW 4OhN, Lee. JJ--(Specldl SOTTe-
spondence to The Herald) The dressmak-
ers are not having it all their own way this
season. What with half-made skirts, well
cut and of good material, sold by tirst-class
houses, and other annoyances, they are in a
state of deep disgust. For the woman Of
moderate means the half-made skirt, of
plain cloth, tweed or plaid cheviot, to be
made up without a lining, has been real
godsend. With taffeta or velveteen
waist, or coat bought at reliable store,
she is fitted out in really stylish manner
for the street at a cost far below that of a
tailor-made by her own dressmaker. 1t is
this new fad of making UP heavy winter
skirts without lining that simplifes
things so much.
This is one grievance; now for the second
and far more important one. This season's
gowns are so elaborate, such a mass of
spangles, embroidery, lace applications,
mousseline de sole ruches, ETC., that it takes
nearly twice as long to turn one out as it
did few years ago. One of the most sue
cessful dressmakers in New York said to
me the other day: '"This is my last year in
business. Where always before could turn
out fifty dresses every week, / cannot now
manage more than thirty five, and then the
women will not pay cent more for the
making. l am really only working to pay
expense and | am tired of it," As this lady
is personal friend, one who for years her.
self ordered the swell wardrobes she now
furnishes for other women, know she told
me the truth, and 1 believed her, though
marveling inwardly. 1t has seemed to me
that the great prices charged for the pro-
duction of these beautiful things must re.
sule in large profit-but it seems not.
Among the details of tailor-made gowns,
calculated to drive the ladies' tailor almost
wild this year, are the straps of cloth with
which polonaises and skirts are adorned
These are cut to pattern and require the
most careful manipulation. The blue cloth
gown in one of our sketches this week is an
example of these shaped straps, also of the
ingenuity of the mind that devised the style.
RIBBON BRAIDING
the autumn seemed hopelessly demode, has
taken a new lease of life and is suddenly to
the fore again. Ribbon braid is one of the
latest fances and has much in its favor, not
the least powerful recommendation thereto
being the ease by the home worker so long
as that individual takes care to provide her.
self with good transfer pattern As yet
it is seen only on the latest models, but ere
long will no doubt be general favorite
For those who like this kind of work q
sheath skirt of fine cloth cut without fulness
at the top with but one seam, and that one
in the back and faring out quite abruptly
below the placket in order to give the full
ness necessary for the godet folds, would be
sensible provision for spring. Braided to
the knee its style would be perfect and its
execution not difficult.
ARE WE TO HAVE THE BANG AGAIN ?
Our illustration shows the transformation
about to be effected in coiffures, if the hair
dressers' journals are to be believed. In the
first place, all undulations are to be sup
pressed; in the second, the bang or curled
fringe on the forehead is to be reha bilitated.
The Princess of Wales, the great Patti and
Others too numerous to mention have never
abandoned the bang. Its softening effect
was too precious to be given up, and although
American women scotf at its charms today,
they will no doubt endorse them in the near
future. We are told also that for day wear
we are to wear the wide plait made by
uniting all the hair behind and coiing it
on the nape of the neck. This. of course, has
been seen here more or less for some time,
but it has been part OF varied cotfure and
the effect has been quite different.
GORGEOUS PETTICOATS
l have been so impressed this week with
the glories of the newest silk petticoats that
/ must give little space to them. Glories
is ha only tarp I nj
my meaning, for they have been brought to
a greater pitch of perfection than even seen
in Paris, that paradise of pretty jupes
Glace silk is no longer used in their COM
position certainly, because, as i have said
before, we must no longer "rustle," at least
our skirts, and the lining thereof must not
But we have managed to run riot in spite
of that. The softest satins and gros-grains,
the most delicatc,y patterned brocades, each
and all of a quality quite worthy to fash
ion gowns, these are the stuffs which have
taken the place of poor deposed glace. So
if You have an old evening skirt which, by
reason of its narrow width, or from other
causes, is no longer available for its original
use, take heart of grace, for with the addi-
tion OF couple of lace founces-if possible,
flounce of its own material should rest be-
meath these-and a few knots of ribbon YOU
may contrive most excellent and withal
up-to-date garment for yourself.
In Paris skirts of color contrasting. vet
harmonizing, with the gown worn are most
in favor. Thus froclz of mustic brown had
a gorgeous petticoat Of orange gros-grain
prodigally flounced and bearing at inter
walls true lovers knots in brown velvet. A
mouse colored gray velvet had similar
skirt of pale lemon yellow, and brown
corduroy cloth an accompanying confection
in turquoise blue, with much accordion
pleating The violet cloth above described
boasted petticoac of palest mauve. Icould
60. on almost indefinitely, but space failing,
hope to devote future article to jupes