The copper country evening news. [volume] (Calumet, Mich.) 18??-1907, 1898-06-16
n SYMBOL OF WOE.
..aou,s LATEST EplcTs CONCERN
ING MOURNING oARs.

~ .-f'rI ~ ~ .rlf
u v.pxsr Necessary 20 'Ezprsss
r = Grief by the weight Of the
r.A spd the Grape vsn May no na'h
ser>sr
copyright 1885, e Sglat AmfT''ah l''' N'
,r;na gowns are no longer cut on
,.cLinc all grace and giving the
- ,der the impression OF overwneim-
~ rsiObt of Grape and heavy stuffs as
~ II woe Time was, and not so very
WIZ 81 either, that a widow was al.
iops - 10 view under the voluminous
s mv - Courtauld Grape until she look
iy somber moving monument
p,rdad in moonless night.
Now fashion says that while there Is
4 sf,;mit set to the secret tears and sighs
! ~ ssrd show is not so necessary. Nor
Wv s,onan obliged by fashion to inn
1 81 herself under such a weight OF
I N aawy garments to show her respect for
I ,ha doad or her grief and sorrow. That
iano veil reaching to the floor and hem
ned half yard deep at each end is now
ant sborter, and even for first mourning
!. IA not reach much below the waist.
w ~ hans one might feel for the first few
I'm ~ NJ after n loss of O loved one that
bin f i,g could be heavy and somber
VII IN ~ to symbolize the sorrow, but the
III = n a Grape veil hanging from the
&c Bonnet drags so terribly that it
4 ~ becomos physical burden almost
"A belief and it is a matter for sim
n hankfulness that it is no longer
atry.
/ Wlere is a new Grape for mourning
\ t,ses, or rather an old one with
n s3feature. and that is that the old
&suld or English Grape snow made
ND .proof in some way. ! saw piece
NJ her day that had been immersed
~ AL of water an hour and when it
eas tlalen dry there could not be seen
Ey Signs of the water, and put beside
MI ! rest of the piece not particle of
L .zitference could be found. This is a
freat boon to those who feel themselves
obliged 10 wear mourning.
There are three or four kinds of Grape,
4 but only the English is used as folds
4 and other trimming on gowns, and 1t is
also the only kind for mourning wells.
sThe Italian and other grapes are lighter
N and usaa as shirrings, ruches and such
\ like purposes, but they would be abso-
lutely useless as folds, rolls or other ac-
cepted garnitures.
While veils are shorter, whole dresses
are covered with English Grape. The
Z underdress or foundation is of silk warp
henrietta cloth, which makes exactly
the right backing for it. 1t is rich and
lustrous without being too glossy and
bas Just the requisite firmness and
weigbt The Grape is stretched over the
Drtadtbs and sewed in with the seams.
ne beet form is to have the entire dress
s!s&ei Myth, Tao Grape and LETT other
Sc untrimmed.
-)ne such gown was made by house
here a speciality is made of mourning
rnlents. This has the skirt cut in half
rcular form and covered with Grape.
10 bodice was close and the Grape
avn smoothly over it without darts.
Ne fold was put down the front over
o closing. The sleeves were nearly
sht, with small caps at the top, each
wing very narrow ruching Of Italian
we. The English fabric is called
cape and all the other kinds crepe.
a short cape made of the henrietta
f-cSered with Grape was made to wear
|tsitb this. The collar to the cape was Of
II no iudor shape and smoothly covered.
"A fdid was put on in front like that ON
TIE 'front.' of the waist. Such costume
Is intended for the first or deepest
r0erning.
n Or second mourning there is va
ilE )f materials and many suitable
w. 4 making them. There is mo-
md wool cloth woven in such q
Ely to resemble Grape. 1t is firm and
and makes useful gowns for hard
1t is made in skirts very often
Y with different waists, for even
II rning the blouse and shirt waist
md.
very elegant bodice to plain
Grape skirt was made in pointed
N shape. The sleeves and vest front
shirred Italian crepe, and the
was OF plain lines of the crepe
from shoulder to point. This
was embroidered with chenille.
caps and frills at the wrists were
the embroidered crepe.
ouse was made of black MORE
4 sopen in front over vest of shir-
II Ian crepe. There was q sort Of
An OF china crepe embroidered thick
usterless floss. A ruffle of the
~ aged the stock collar. A narrow
lt ring OF Italian crepe was put
VII the pointed cuffs and the caps.
suitable garment for young
~ ~ ID second mourning or a home
g., =.