The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1898-02-20

from the brim which is rather short
at the back Fashion here is inclining
| greatly to the use of the Marie An
toinette roll covered with hair the shade
OF ones own tresses, which when adj
/ justed, give the wearer the appearance
! of owning an excessive wealth of "wo-
mans crowning glory"
| To replace the winter coats of fur
French ateliers are making some stylish
Louis XIV. models of black and colored
velvets, which are somewhat longer
| than the Louis Seize jackets to be worn
with skirts of silk or cloth. The Louis
XIV. coats have revers of white satin
| bordered along the edge with velvet, on
which is laid a delicate design Of pure
white point applique lace. The broad
back effect without seam in the
center is preserved in these coats. and
the sleeves fit tightly TO the arm from
shoulder TO wrist.
More high-necked dinner-gown have
| been worn this winter than for many
seasons past and even for very grand
dinners and for debutantes the half-low
bodice is finished with a guimpe Russo
Of transparent textile laid in shirrings,
pleats, or tucks.
A very large number of evening
dresses are made with transparent
sleeves reaching to the wrist. The bod
ice proper may have a transparent
yoke. or guimpe to correspond, or be
cut low or in threequarter style eth
er form being without doubt fashiona-
bile; nevertheless, q low bodice with
long sleeves in Victorian fashion looks
| extremely odd, and it is rarely if ever
| becoming.
| Petunia continues to be a very fash
| ionable color, the pinkish rather than
the purple red OF the flower being ia
vored a cloth gown Of this rich color
has the skirt ornamented with rows of
| silk stitching only, the front of the
| blouse bodice being crossed with very
dark petunia velvet ribbon in large dia-
mond patterns. The arched collar is of
velvet, as are also the pudgy slashed
| Queen Anne puffs set at the top of the
very close-fitting coat sleeves. Another
pretty costume Of petunia Venetian
cloth has a velvet guimpe and sleeves
worn with low-cut sleeveless slashed
blouse of the cloth, the edges bordered
with pale tan cloth overlaid with rows
| of petunia silk gimp. The overdress is
| lifted to show a simulated underdress
of the tan cloth similarly trimmed.
| Fine India cashmere. or drap d'ete
| is an ideal material for young girls
| best dresses. Indeed, any woman under
30 may wear cashmere. / am speaking
/ Of
women of any age wear it in dark
shades at other times Two of the
most charming toilets seen recently
We're worn by beautiful sisters opposite
| in type from each other One dress was
/ of creamy white India cashmere. the
blouse and sleeves delicately ernbroid-
cred. in shaded pink and green The
othet young girl wore pale blue cash
mere, very sparsely but most effectively
ornamented with palest blue and deli
cate pink silk embroideries Straw
colored satin, trimmed on the bodice
with blonde lace, and a cluster of nat
ural red roses, formed a striking gown
worn by the mother of these lovely girls
Dark hair and eyes are supposed when
such a toilet as this is chosen. but the
wearer in this case was a blonde of the
purest type, and most charming she
locked in her pale yellow gown.
| The newest skirts on evening toilets
are very light and supple, being merely
silk lined, and not at all stiffened with
| interlining. The majority of the mod
els lately made in this city, or received
/ from abroad, are mounted on an under
| skirt OF silk or satin, each skirt made
separately, but joined to one waistband
The underskirt is made slightly narrow
| er than the dress skirt proper The
/ dart seams on some Of the new Prin-
cesse dresses extend to the very edge
] Of the skirt hem, and these are often
! hidden their entire length By a line of
gimp, a design in braidworl. or a ma
chine stitched band, decorated with tiny
| tailor buttons.
| SasheS are to lose none Of their pop
uarity for months to come. as large in
voices Of the most beautiful ribbons of
medium width are already in the import
ers' hands. They. consist of satin-bor-
! dered ccrded-silk patterns, Roman
and Persian stripes with deep fringes
at the ends, shepherds check weayes
banded with satin in one of the colors
of the check. frosted and shot silk
sashes. plain or woven with tiny flowers:
also handsome watered varieties in
black. white and colors
Having been exceedingly popular all
winter in Paris and London ieweled
belts are now becoming very generally
worn here with both house and street
costumes. City importers have just
opened to view q great variety of these
| belts, with buckles to match. They are
very gorgeous indeed. Not the enchant-
| ed valley explored by Sndbad himself
could supply genuine stones in quantity
and elaboration matching those which
fill sho0 counters and cases, and en-
belish the gowns and jackets which
fashionable women are now wearing
Some of the nargbw rolled gold belts en-
crusted with tiny mock emeralds, tur-
quoises. opals and wonderfully brilliant
diamond clippings are really very hand
some, and SO are the medium-siZed OBJ
long or triangle-shaped buckles that
clasp them. But the broad gilt belts
set with huge imitation rubies, sap
phires and other red, yellow. green and
! amber stones do not appeal to q refined
taste. The craze for artificial jewelry
of a cheap. conspicuous kind is TO be
deplored. and the fashionable people
who introduced the best of this doubt
full decoration have now discarded it,
AS trimming. lace appliques are al
ways artistic. The lace sprays and
special pieces look very handsome laid
on velvet, satin or silk grounds Evening
blouses are now very frequently