davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1898-03-11
THE KEY WEST FLEET

City docks for shipment, presumably for
the cruisers Minneapolis and Columbia
at Philadelphia.
The herald., 1898-03-11

SAN FRANCISCO, March 10.-James Al
ger of Ogden has been selected to be the
successor of the late A. D. Wilder as SUI
perintendent of the western division Of tho
Southern Pacific, with headquarters at
Oakland. Mr.. Alger's place as superintend-
ent of the Salt Lake division will be filled
by John s. Noble, now superintendent Of
the Shasta division, which will be merged
Evening star., 1898-12-24
Women who Fuss.
From the Philadelphia Press.

ioih hiisueipuld frekt.
An English writer has been giving En-
glish women who fuss a sight of them
selves as others see them. Woman nature
is woman nature the world over; so, per-
haps, women fussers at the four corners of
the earth may find something in her re-
marks that will strike home. She says:
Can there be anything more uncomfort-
be entertained by restless, fussy hostess,
or for the latter to have to entertain the
same sort of guest? fussy woman can
never be called a well-mannered one. She
has no repose. no dignity, none of that
Well-bred calmness which is SO admira BILE
in woman, none of that gracious and
friendly courtesy that so speedily and COM
pletely sets strangers at ease. Good-na-
tured and desirous to please and give pleas
ure. anxious to do her duty as wife, mother
and hostess, she is yet rarely successful for
a fussy woman is seldom an observant one
being always too busy to notice whether
those around her are pleased or annoyed
until they speak out plainly and express
their feelings in words.
The truth is that she cannot understand
the charm and peace most people find in
being occasionally left alone, allowed to 20
their own way, to follow their own inclina-
tions without remark and remonstrance.
To the casual visitor and mere acuuaint-
ance the fussy man or woman is a bore,
perhaps, but of whom they are tolerant be-
cause of their good nature, their OBVIOUS
friendliness and desire to be hospitable
ii Is only the family and intimat te friends
who feel the real discomfort and misery
that can be caused by their excess of zeal
and continued Interference in every little
matter that concerns the daily life and do
lngS OF those around them"
Evening star., 1898-12-24
Don't Begin Padding.

From Tit-Bits.
''Oh, yes, sir" said the tailor. IT can pad
your coat to any extent you like. but I
shouldn't advise you to have 1t done.''
"Why not?" I asked.
ut Is a mistake" he said. IT have q
good number of customers whose clothes I
always pad for them I have done SO ever
since they first came to me, and while
continue the practice they will always need
it more and more. A young gentleman
comes to me, just out Of his teens and be-
ginning to think himself q man. But he
hasn't filled out yet, his shoulders are mar
row and his chest is fiat. So he asks me
to build him up q bit. OF course 1 have to
do 1t to please him, and he struts about In
his frame OF horse hair, proud of his ap-
pearance, and looking forward to the time
when he shall have q figure like that all
his own. But that time never comes-and
the pads are responsible for its absence.
THE fact OF the matter is, that the
weight which presses on the deficient part
is SO great, and the heat produced SO con-
stant, that profuse perspiration is always
going on. and instead of developing and
filling out. as the youth would do If he left
nature alone. he finds his weak points
growing weaker: his shoulders shrink, his
chest falls in, and far from being able to
throw off his pads and appear in the man.
ly symmetry Of his own form, he has to in
crease his padding from year to year as his
flesh is sweated away.
mo, / should certainly never advise any
one to begin padding. A little dumb-beil
exercise is worth all the tailor's padding In
the world"
Evening star., 1898-12-24
A Trine Mixed.
From Til-Bits.

Il have cooked little surprise for you,
dear" said young Mrs. Honeybride, IAN
almond souffie, for after dinner. i got the
recipe from that new cookery book that
came as a wedding present and the instruc-
tions are really most clear. Handy, isn't
it, book like that? I'm sure the thing will
turn out success"
Edwin smiled dubious sort of Abyssn-
ian-yold smile and temporized about the
success as he looked at the souffie.
Cant say L like it," he said after the
first mouthful. Sure you got the instruc-
tions right, darling? Ii tastes very funny"
'Oh. yes,' responded Angelina with tears
in her eyes. Il can say them by heart from
the book-just hear me-" and she reached
down the volume.
Take half a pound of grated almonds"
Quite right" interjected Edwin, follow
ing with his finger.
"One pound OF castor sugar. mix well
with the whites of three fresh eggs"
Correct, said her spouse as she contin-
ued breathlessly:
Add two ounces of white pepper"
Pepper! Great goodness" said the I'M
happy man as he turned over the leaf.
Two large carrots chopped into dice a
spoonful of mustard, four chopped onions.
and -
Stop! stop! You must be wrong, I'm
sure. Why, my dear, 1 thought so. You
are muddlng up almond souffie with Irish
stew. You've forgotten to cut the leaves
of this blessed cookery book"
Evening star., 1898-12-24

really good lace for trimmings. 1 made a
dress the other day that cost exactly $125:
blue and silver brocade; silk Innings and
foot ruff1es: low bodice with spangled velvet
and rich lace decorations; strap sleeves.
After all, nothing much.'
What costs more?'
"Oh, velvet or embroidery, and. of course,
originality of design. Here for instance, is
princess dress of black satin, heavily en-
broidered with black steel and chenille. The
bodice-Victorian decollete-is held on the
shoulder on the left side with jeweled
straps and a half wreath of pink roses. On
the right side 1t has an ordinary sleeve.
This is going to cost-you see it's en-
broidered from neck to hem-$275.'
Originality Comes Higher.
"Any dresses come higher?'
"Oh, yes-if you pay high for the makers
name and-other things. Take a black vel
vet or black velvet brocatelle and make
polonaise dress or an open overskirt of it; ;
frog, tassel and embroder the velvet with
gold and silver; have a white satin under
skirt trimmed with rows of silver fringe
and embroidery, and trim the low bodice
with silver galloon and old rose point lace.
Count the Innings and accessores-white kid
gloves stitched with gold, slippers, &c
and your bill will run we'll above 500.
But dresses aren't in it with evening
wraps in the race for extravaganza" she
Evening star., 1898-12-24

which is tight at the top, square and full
at the feet and adorned with sprays of
scarlet jfpOnica. The bodice is embroidered
and net trimmed, like the skirt. 1t has
strap sleeves.
Rose pink panne embroidered with rose
buds forms the tunic of another dress,
falling over skirt of white chiffon. well
fiounced and ruched, and embroidered with
pink chenille and silver. The bodice is a
decollete coat of the panne.
Youthful and Becoming.
For Christmas wear, also, is a young
girls dress of delicate blue mousselne de
sole, made on white taffeta foundation.
The skirt has tunic ruched with lace and
mousseline. The bodice has lace bolero
caught together in front by tiny bows of
velvet. The long lace sleeves exhibited one
of the especial crochets of the season
narrow ribbons passing over the thumb to
keep the sleeve from wrinkling. To such
straits have we come with tight sleeves!
Very simple, girlish dresses are made of
net or point d'esprit, trimmed round and
round with ruches of narrow ribbon. Black
or blue gauze ruffies on white are especially
in favor. Black net is heavily trimmed
with jet; cream net is worn over pink silk,
with black velvet straps for sleeves.
A handsome dress for matron is of
black gauZe with spots of green silk, the
skirt trimmed with uncountable ruches of
Evening star., 1898-12-24

patient man, who pulls the bell twice in
quick succession, and does not wait long
before trying 1t again: the one of more
phiegmatic temperament. whose ring is
slower ana more substantial: the hesitating
woman. who draws the knob out in a sue
cession OF nervous jerks: the seedy individ-
ual with matches to sell, who stretches the
wire carefully to its full length, and then
allows 1t to relax with faint, apologize
tinkle' ana the jolly friend who knows he
Is welcome, and therefore grasps the knob
with a hearty swing that is fairly eloquent
with good nature. and sets the bell to
shaking Its sides with such peals of echo
ing laughter that IL positively cannot stop
at once, but subsidies gradually with a mer-
ry, irrepressible little litter A doorbell has
as many voices as visitors
Evening star., 1898-12-24

black chiffon. The bodice is of chiffon on
one side, gauZe on the other and Is made
to cross. Some beautiful old lace is frilled
upon the shoulders and trims the decol-
letage, which is partly outlined by soft
pink roses without foliage. pouf of
roses and black gauZe is to be worn in the
hair; there are gloves and shoes of black
suede. and a fan Of black gauze with a
trail of roses.
New Hair Ornaments.
With evening dress the hair is dressed In
the universal pompadour, or it is puffed
wide almost in Japanese fashion at the
sides. Ribbons, chains of brilliants or chap
lets of leaves-holly for Christmas-are
used to encircle the high knot. Jeweled
aigrettes are larger and more ambitious
than in past seasons. Three roses. a steel
spangied butterfly and big osprey are not
thought excessive. With a black velvet
dress, rosette of black with diamond CEN
Ter, black plume - white plume and an
osprey has been worn.
The long chaplets of crystal beads in
vogue In Paris are too tawdry for folks of
good taste-too suggestive of sauaws But
long gold chains are coveted and the Dea ri
oos collar or last winter is still with u.s.
Evening star., 1898-12-24
TREATMENT OF WINDOWS.
Some Artistic SuggestiOns Especially
AprODOs at This Season.

Some Artistic SuggestiOns Especially
AprOpOs at This Season.
From the Philadelphia Times.
The window should be made quite deco
rative feature in room. not simply left, as
1t too often seems to be, to the tender mer-
cies of pair Of muslin or thick curtains,
allowed to hang almost as they please on
either side.
True. the ordinary sash window which is
found in the majority of houses does not
seem to lend itself in any way to decora-
tive treatment; still there are ways and
neans by which even this seemingly hope
less structure may be converted into effect
I've shape If not into absolute picturesque
ness.
An attractive treatment for the window
is to have the frame taken entirely out and
substitute loaded glass easement opening
outward In the center: but this naturally
is an extensive change, and partakes more
of structural alteration, which should
hardly be undertaken except on freehold
property. Much can be done in the way Of
improvement without altering the glass by
the skillful manipulation of draperies and
the arrangement of a pretty window seat.
The bow window requires little care in
o1aping, and should never be cut off from
fixed across 1t. The pole should be shaped
to the window and the curtains fixed near
to the glass. with pair Of heavy hand
some ones at the sides. A window seat
will also be found a helpful addition, or a
large Chesterfield may find a place in the
recess with very good effect.
With the long French window there can
be no difficulty as its only requirement is
short festoon drapery at the top, with a
nice pair Of side curtains: but the square
window Is altogether different, and must
have short draperies falling from the top
to Just below the ledge. fixed close to the
glass. and the window seat Is almost on in
dispensable adjunct.
The small easement window Is without
doubt the least troublesome 10 arrange as
1t IL alreedy q decorative feature, which
only needs pretty short curtains 10 COM
plete.
Evening star., 1898-12-24

silver wire. When one considers that these
gowns are among the simplest, and that
those which are not painted and to which
flowers are not appliqued are profusely
trimmed, it is enough to make one wish for
the purse of Fortunatus.
But there is the ever-useful black to
which we may turn, and black gown al
ways rewards our labors by looking quite
unique even though there may be half
a dozen others in the room. At the opera
last Monday night a black princess gown
seemed to draw ones attention by its SIM
mousseline de sole over a black satin slip.
The overdress was accordian pleated, made
princess and trimmed with bands of jet
embroidery. The neck was square and very
low and finished with full ruching of the
mousseline. A band of this ruching went
over the shoulders. another about the bot
tom of the skirt and a smaller band about
the upper part of the arm. This gown ap-
pears in the illustration and seems exactly
fitted to the slender type OF American girl
we see pictured in the prints Of the day.
Thin Textures Over SILK.
Brussels net, grenadine or any trans
parent material can be used for an over
dress, and nearly every one has some old
silk which will make over successfully into
silk slip. One girl who goes out a good
deal and has a small allowance has one
slip made Of white satin, and 1t is cotton
backed satin. Over this she puts organdies
of different hues and varies her ribbons and
flowers, and manages to have many changes
OF apparel at a much smaller cost than II
usual In such cases.
are stunning and high-priced, reminds me
Of Brussels lace dinner gown. The bodice
had sleeves and bloused slightly at the
waist. It was all Of the lace. About the
Evening star., 1898-12-24

From the Philadelphia Press.
The new buckles for Wristbands are truly
unique and charming, long and narrow, with
cameo heads. set in the midst of a steel
framework. Lozenge shapes are also in
again, and the colorings are. many of them,
new and original. made OF filigres oxidized
silver. with red, blue and green stones
Silver and turquoise are blended together,
having several slides at intervals to be
slipped on to the velvet band.
Dark blue enamel with diamonds has a
beauty all its own. while in others large
laQues of emeralds are mingled with dia-
monds and amethysts. Cum studs are made
of minute diamonds surrounding emeralds.
Diamonds and rubies mingle In links, one
of which is oblong, the other round. united
by chains. Others are in light or dark blue
enamel and diamonds. Ovals of steel are
decorated with green and pink stones.
Diamonds for similar purposes are min
gled with mother of pearl. The old FASH
ioned fastenings of paste are replaced with
buttons sometimes. after antique patterns
and united as links.
Evening star., 1898-12-24
Told BY Window Curtains.
IN the ChicaRn ChrnniclA

Who says that the outside Of . house
does not tell the story of its interior? II
enc only looks at the shades on the win
dows he can say whether the feminine
owner is a neatly particular woman, or q
woman with slovenly ways; whether she be
quietly self-possessed or nervously active
Telling character by window curtains is q
new fad. II the shades OF a house are In
variably In the center OF the glass panes
and always hang In an even line, Thea Il ie
safe to pronounce the housekeeper a quiet
orderly woman, whose nerves never get
sharpened into edges. II, on the contrary
one curtain is up and one down, or one
string mis- sing and the other tied into tan
gled knots, or one stick broken and the
other lying on the bias, then the reader of
character promptly chronicles the woman
resident as possessor OF a nervous, irritable
temperament, or as one too Indifferent to
care for the little things Of life that COM
bine to make the great things.
Photographer-'Great Scot. man. Try
and look happy and cheerful"
Customer-"I daren't. This photograph is
for my wife. who is away on a visit She
would come back tomorrow IL looked
happy and cheerful."-Tlt-Bits-
Evening star., 1898-12-24
New Use for Turkey Claws.
% the New York Herald

From the New York Herald.
There was an effort last year to adopt
the turkeys claw as a fetich Of good luck,
but 1t did not succeed. Some enterprising
genius In search Of novelties has now
brought cut the gobbler's claw in a new
fashion.
A real turkeys claw is treated to a var
nish-like finish. Is silver tipped and has a
small Thermometer fastened to it, and Is
thus transformed into a mantel ornament.
This is hint to the farmers wife that
she hold in reserve her turkey legs, tip
them with a bit of ribbon tied with q big
bow at the side, and fasten on one of the
little thermometers which she can get at
any stationer's. She might tie on little cali
endars. banner fashion. and there she has
dinner souvenirs or prizes for progressive
euchre party. The girl with q slender
purse may also take q hint from this for
her cotillon. or whist. or euchre party this
winter.
Evening star., 1898-12-24

Doorbells are pretty fair indicators CT
character. Probably you have not been
conscious Of 1t, but every time you pull a
doorbell you register what manner of man
you are. Your ring will not tell everything
about you. from the color Of your eyes to
your taste in flowers. but to those who
know the signs the doorbell Is as good as
q title page.
Any one who has had occasion to answer
bell pulls knows how much difference there
IL in them. One persons method varies
very little from time to time, though the
difference between that method and some
body elses, while slight, will be sufiiciently
we'll marked. 1t is seldom that two rings
are exactly alike.
Evening star., 1898-12-24

concluded. "a mantle for the opera season.
in royal blue velvet trimmed and lined with
ermine-youre lucky If you get that for
$1,000.
Yes" I acknowledge; 'if get it, shall
be-"
Evening dresses of all prices and all de-
grees of elaboration have been turned out
for the Christmas festivities. The magnfi-
cence Of opera dress has set the example,
and in addition to the gauzes, tules and
transparent materials worn by the young
girl, brocades, satins, velvets in the new
panne variety and all-over lace gowns vie
with one another in beauty and luxury.
Spangled dresses glitter brilliantly as
last season and fluffy, ruffling, cloud stuffs
are worn both over and under the heavier
silks and satins. Two transparent stuffs
are sometimes put together as when
chiffon underskirt Is worn with long lace
coat or polOnaise.
For a Holiday Ball.
For Christmas dance is intended dress
whose foundation is rose pink glace with
triple tier tunic overskirt arrangement of
ivory white moire, sewn with pearls in
scroll patterns and edged with the new
crimped net garniture. There Is train,
Evening star., 1898-12-24

lCH AN En- L IA v "a
CANT country walled
the woman who has
lived abroad. How
can / exist where
women go in street
dress to the theaters.
to the restaurants
everywhere? I'll be
bankrupt in a season
Such extrava gance
not to wear evening
gowns!"
Such extrava-
gance"" cried the
Evening star., 1898-12-24

square neck and about the hem was a mar
row band of sable. On the skirt were folds
of heliotrope mousseline de sole, three laid
side by sde edged with sable Just below
the closely fitted hip pieces of lace. below
the folds a space of lace, then three folds
more, another lace space, and the NOUS
seline de sole made the train below that
Another beautiful gown was worn by a
girl who prefers cloth and tailor finish even
at night. 1t was of plain white cloth, and
the neck, short sleeves and fiounce en-
forme were edged with sable
Evening star., 1898-12-24
For a Holiday Ball.

under linen. We shall see what effect this
| will have on the modern mondaine and
| how her bills will increase.
Evening star., 1898-12-24

The long thin neck with the bones so near
the surface that they suggest themselves
with every movement is far more admired.
Dog collars of different materials are worn,
strings of pearls which need not be real,
or pendant on a narrow chain will often
be quite enough to conceal a tendency to
leanness. There are several models this
year which are evidently meant to supply
the wants of those who must wear evening
gowns on festive occasions or look out of
place and yet who have not the requisite
amount Of plumpness to make the gowns
attractive. One is to have the gown high
in the back and finished with a high collar
which is shaped like a Medici, only, of
course, does not flare out very far from the
nape of the neck. Another is to have the
regulation low-necked gown and have rib
bons coming from the bodice and tying on
the shoulders in bows. Black velvet makes
a most effective finish, and although the
bows don't come right over the protruding
bones they do better, they cast a dark.
artistic shadow over them.
Flower Collars Stylish.
Dog collars of blossoms are very smart
as we'll as very useful. There is collar Of
the flowers about the neck, and from this
band lines of blossoms go to the edges of
the bodice all around. This is a beautiful
finish. A finish to make the neck look soft
and white is tulle. The French use this
much more than We do usually making an
excuse to put it's soft folds against the
skin in low-necked gowns.
A dinner gown seen lately with the poll
onaise effect, which is trying to make its
way into popular favor. looked as If it
might be made most successfully out of the
remains of two handsome gowns which
had seen enough service to lose part Of
their usefulness unless combined with
something else. There was an accordion
pleated skirt OF gauze. but it might as well
have been skirt of silk. The polonaise
was made of some striped silk and shaped
much like an old-fashioned polonaise. 1t
had a ruffle of lace going all around 1t,
which was much wider in the back than
on the front. The waist and sleeves were
tight fitting, the latter only to the elbow
with a finish Of the lace, while the whole
front of the waist was quite covered by a
fall of the same lace. MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1898-12-24
This Question

asked OF number of bot druggists
groce, What the price of your best OF tartar?
The varied but the average price s. per
pound This that baking powder
made OF cream of necessarily expensive
at the price of cheaply made alum powder.
Housewives who urged buy powders
should remember that priced baking powders u
not of tartar, and wholesome
Ceveands baking powder pure cream of tartar
and sold low price pure of tartar baking DOW
der can be sold for
1t costs than alum powder but more because
of its superior healthfulness.
Evening star., 1898-12-24
The Art in Concealment.

Most Of the evening gowns leave the neck
very bare. but women who are thin are ad-
vised not to conform to this mode. There
are many becoming ways of concealing
very thin necks. 1t should be borne in
mind, however, that a neck with every
bone 50 well covered by flesh that 1t resem-
bles a soft cushion is not at all artistic.
Evening star., 1898-12-24

Copyright 1885, by John Brisben walker)
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, December %. 1885,