The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-03-13
FASHIONS In MEMS DRESS.
A BOON GIVEN TO GREEN HATS
WITH GRAY FEATHERS.

Prince of Wales wore last autumn In Austria
was not unknown in this country when THE
cable brought over the news that he had tom
porarily adopted this hunting headgoar OF the
Austrian mon. Such hats have been on the
back shelves of some of tho local hat shops for
two or three years. occasionally at tho ap'
proach Of autumn one OF thom has found its
way into tho glsro of tho show windows, but
they were either misunderstood or ignored. for
even tho well-drossed mon OF Newport. who are
the first to adopt all that is eccentric In head
wear, never displayed these Syrian hats. Now
the force of tho Prince Of Wales's example Is
making itself felt hero and the distinct novelty
OF the season promises to be these green outing
hats. They are displayed In felt and In heavy
silk material like plush and arc made in vari'
GUS forms. Some arc round, with low crowns,
while others have the crown creased like the
ordinary Alpine hat. and every one OF them has
It's feather. In some this distinctive decoration
10 Mt tho back of the hat and in others on the
side. The feathers range In variety from ordi-
nary fowls. plumage to the quaint feather
~rosettes mado In yienna. While these hats are
intended primarily Fl n "a Sot to u be wHTn t S,th w sh9ot o"E
broader point of Wow they will be made to serve
for golf and bicycling.
the English fashion more closely than they have
for several years.. That means that the crowns
put on the market last year with the narrow
black binding around Its brim was not a great
success, and 1t Is not probable that any moro
because 1t is cool and light is satisfied Il It
RR imseif about e%s'1 the eu shape; but mem who think
more of dressing will find that the best hats
this summer will follow the English fashions,
II, indeed, they are not made In England. The
weight of tho imported straw hats 10 the chief
objection to them. and even a man who wants
weighty things around on his head. Mel who
make u study. OF dressing know that In straw
hnts the small one Is certain To- pc the ni m mos
ing straw hats. The colored hatband question
has settled itself admirably. The ttamboyant
Intended for country wear. In town they are
out Of place. The best of the summer derbys
ls still the low-crowncd, rather broad-brlmmed
hat, In shade of light brown.
The most notable change in mems nockwear
this spring Is the final adoption of o fashion
which was started in London several years ago
and was brought over to this country. but has
been limited chiefly to the few very well
dressed men. Now the shop windows are show
ing these fiat scarfs. tied. not in the customary
Ascot fashion. but with ono end nearly allowed
to fall, with a pin to keep IL in place. The
scarfs worn in this way are the same that were
popular three or four years ago and were then
tied into tight sailor knots. with tho broad ends
spread out over the shirt bosom. The present
style has ono disadvantage. Without a valu-
able pin it is not likely to be very impressive;
but tho striped scarfs made for this use and the
rich co!ors arc certain to give vogue to the
fashion, even il only men who happen to own
valuable pearls decide TO cling to 1t. The fiat
a nsfU sus setst Ian fashion "t1Sn i0i It ms has pi been q" in Z vogue oSTe
now Tor thirty years in one form or another,
and 1t is not likely to be suppianted. The but
is n mode to be avoided. The style was a tran
STORY one at the outset, depending entirely for
a man was abb. to tie tho knot. The string
tics that come from England now are much
broader, and are not cut. moreover, In such a
for two or three years ago. The Persian silks,
which have never been, popular in New York
such as Boston. for instance. the demand for
Them never dcciines), have been pus on the mar
kot in a new form: They nre very bright in
blue, and green have been supplanted by the
most glazing tinus. But even in their now
own. Hahdkerchicfs and even pajamas are
made in these same materials. but they are SO
expensive as to be beyond the means of any but
like those made for painnIas and the drawers
are short. loose garments. coming to the knee
man who wants to have his paJanas, under
clothes, handkerchief. and neck,ie composed Of
epe ,aen and v TIL,"if, rnn m pl er himself req %'sg nlHe.
cent ut half a dozen Of the best haberdashers
uptown. The string ties for summer wear fol-
~" luC I Vi II FIN olI'o anu I DIOhu,
without change of shape from end to end.
Four-in- hands are not to be had in the Persian
silks without special orders, and the best that
come are, as usual, in pongce Of blue and white
and blue and red.
Some of the London tailors have sent over
to this country double breasted suits made in
dark gray checks or even dark gray striped
material SO rough as to disguise almost the fact
that there is really n pattern in the goods.
The suits have double-b breasted waistcoats of
tho same material. and they show that tho
double breasted garment is still popular in
England, whatever Its fate may have been
hero. Double breasted waistcoats were
seized upon here as a distinctly fashionable
garment, and the result was that a cyclone of
them overswept the town. They became so
common that men who were careful in such
matters had to drop thom, and it is only now
they are again finding IL place a place which
Is likely to be permanent. now that tho first
craze for them is past. 1t is one curious fca.
ture OF New York fashions that anything new
Is overworked just a. soon as IL becomes pop
ular., All the retail stores sell it, whether it
be shoes or n necktie, at very cheap prices.
Ever body has one. and the fashion becomes
an abomination. In London the case is. very
1t remains in vogue for II number OF
years. ana tai.orS DO not fnd It necessary, as
year. some Of tho London bei ween. season
suits that have come over here arc of dark
MATERIAL, which would look inoffensive enough
were IL not for II plaid. perhaps two or three
inches square. that is outlined in some bright
color. Some of these show. on n dark brown
ground, narrow threads,of bright red. pale green,
or yellow, and these clothes would ordinarily be
quiet enough only for country wear. In tho
summer Waistcoats that are popular In London
the light browns, in colors that range from cafe
au.lait to chocolate, are still popular. The en-
trnvagant dotted. spotted, barred, ribbed. vari-
colored harlequin waistcoats that are offered
in some OF the American shops as tho, latest
English fashion must be reserved merely for
the trade. as among tho clothes which the good
shops sent TO their patrons here one
look in vain to find such combinations;
or II may be they are sold to persons who look
upon fashions Of such brilliant color as the
only ones suited to their taste.
At onesperiod mono OF the shoe stores ever
had buttoned shoes for men. Any demand for
them was met with tho whitening response.
"Oh. wo don't make them; there Ia no call for
They had to be ordered. and 1t was
only at one or two of the smaller places kent by
that they could be properly made.
Within two years after a change In this respect
began all tho stores were full of buttoned shoes
for men. Now the situation is much the same
as 1t was at first. The well.drcssed men. who