Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-04-03

on a turn-down collar. and no matter how
high the band of a turn-down collar, it is
frock. OF course New York is an excep-
tionally clean city. and it is to some extent
owing to this fact that the shirt with the
collar to it is worn here as much as it is.
In such towns as Pittshurg and Chicago
they are hardly possible unless the man
who would be clean is wiling to spend all
his time changing shirts. with a bath after
each change. In the summer anywhere the
shirt with a collar to 1t is hardly practical
BILE. If one exercises even enough for golf.
~Shirtmakers. therefore. have studied the
convenience Of their customers, and are
producing collars In wonderful variety
which fit quite as nicely as if the two
articles were not separate. Standup collars
have grown wonderfully, some reaching ac-
tually 3 ga inches. while 2 1-2 to 3 is inches
are common heights. Thu high-band turn
down collar, with rounded corners and the
ends overlapping two inches in front is
the most in vogue at present of all turn
down collars. 1t has not established itself
without opposition. however. for it was crit
icised and ridiculed at first. being called un-
duly pious. a night shirt collar and a
coachman's collar. Still it was high and
firm. a goodly band of white linen, and,
above all. something new. So. after an ex-
istence of two years. 1t has been accepted.
One recommendation for it is that it Is
practically unwiltable. 1t is not for wear
with a Prince Albert coat, however, nor
rough goods in any color but black. or with
a sack coat. II is as proper as can be.
Although he accepts string" collars. the
well dressed man prefers always that his
cuffs be attached. The best shirtmakers
say that a cuff hangs better, both round
the wrist and in the sleeve of the coat.
when 1t is made to the shirt. 1t IS impos-
sible, they declare. to make detachable cuffs
fit as nicely. Nowadays very few cuffs are
cut for other than link studs. The designs
of the colored shirts vary little. but at pres
ent delicate colors in blue. pink and brown
stripes and checks, quiet in design. are
in best taste. There Is 4 demand for round
cornered cuffs.
AS 20 scarfs. the fat Ascot holds its own
tied in a medium puff, or the more fluffy
horse show" puff, or in the rather tight
knot with the ends spread over the bosom.
or drawn down straight. String ties are
broader than last year. and are cut straight.
White string ties are now the proper thing
whenever full dress suits are worn. The
black string tie, despite the fact that it is
English. has lost its hold. Dark puff ties,
with a brilliant pin. go best with a Prince
Albert coat. On Sundays white ties are
preferred by men who take pains to dress
well and they are careful as to the charac-
ter of the pin in the Sunday scarf. No
horseshoes, coaching horns. golf clubs or
anything sporty if they are in town.
Brilliant waistcoats are growing fast in
favor among men who care for clothes.
The fashionable tailors are making from
two to three times as many as last year
| and in more wonderful designs than ever. If
possible. The style of cut is double-breasted
| this year. the single-breasted fancy waist
coat being a back number. 1t is said that
Chicago is abandoning it. and that the only
town where the upper ten wear it is Phila-
delphia- The best liked designs are not
elaborate, but what this years waistcoats
| lack in spangles they make up in color.
Some are faring crimson, or scarlet. with
a scattering of irregular spots thereon.
Others are olive ground with fine red stripes
up and down and cross bright red. iron rust
brown. white with fine black stripes. max
| ing a checkerboard: green with yellow
stripes, brown with diagonal stripes at right
angles. one series green, the other red. and
white ground with blue checkerboard
stripes These waistcoats are much worn.
l but only with frock coats They are quite