The record-union., 1898-03-20

handsome Dlack Chantllly lace, anu
again they are wholly yelled with sable
net, which is a mass of scintillatinS jets
and spangles.
The skirts of all tailor made gowns
are plain with exceptions now and then
like stitched straps trimmed with tall
or buttons or with deep hens turned
up on the outside, and covered with
rows of braid or silk stitching. The
jackets that accompany these simple
skirts are made to look very dressy py
open fronts with which are worn any
number of fancy vests, change and
change about, thus varying the APP
pearance of the costume constantly by
the use of the wholly different fabrics
which form these natty and stylish
toilets.
The spring cycling costumes are far
prettier than those Worn last year.
Clear dark shades are used more than
the fawn and dust-colored. grays and
tans. and the result is very pleasing.
Only an extremely well-cut and we'll
made tailor suit of light-colored cloth
looks trim and appropriate, While the
dark blues. blacks and greens are al
most always neat and natty looking.
and show less signs of wear after an
entire season than the paler costumes
very often do after a months service.
Some very stylish Lenten costumes
are made with closely fitted princesse
back and a redingote front opening
over a skirt made of contrasting mate
rial 9nd color. Some of these gowns
have a fitted bodice front. trimmed
simply with braid and buttons, or
chemisette Russo is inserted in a
square or V-cut opening about the
neck For slender figures, however,
most Of these new garments are made
With a trim-loOking but seamless, dart
less front, slightly bloused and turned
back ever pointed haif-yoke of pleat-
ed silk or crepe de chine. This is
framed with velvet revers that reach
frCm the turn down collar to the waist.
The sleeves are in very small mutton
leg style, and most of the models show
the skirt portion cut with>a slight dip
at the back The back breadths of
house dresses cut after this design are
made with a train more or less long.
The novelty goods and French and
English suitings for women's wear this
season are in soft medium weights in
pretty blended colors, the result being
a very uncertain shade. The English
goods are proof against wear and tear,
and although they can be made up in
combination. they are most stylish
when the single material is used for
the entire costume. A very attractive
H-on n .ada n -
like double-warp cashmere, either
plain or interviewer with threads of
various bright shades The same style
Of fabric. is also being woven into a
pattern of handsome spring plaids and
heather-mixed checks
The popular checked cheviots re-
appear in very light, delicate shades
of mignonette, green, blue, mauve, OLD
rose or fawn, in fifth of an inch
squares. alternating with white, and
will be used for travelling, walking and
cycling dresses. Dappled cheviots show
several shades of one color, with white,
violet and green being first choice
among these; then blue brown and an
odd and pretty shade of amethyst,
which last autumn was classed among
the popular dahlia tints. Other dap
pled oheyiots are of single color, with
a pronounced effect. impaired by a
rough. bourette-like weaving of the
silk and wool threads.
The new toques and bonnets are con-
siderlbly larger in size than those re-
Gently worn: they are broader on the
sides. or from side to side, above the
tenples. and are therefore becoming
to women with slender faces, when the
trimmings are not arranged 100
straight and high The flower toques
are charming. and many of the Paris
models are composed of eNquisiteiX
shaded violets or roses, in pink or Jac-
uueminot tintings, the toque itself De
ing formed entirely of soft green thorny
stems. intertwined in a lattice pattern,
with a tiny in-and-out tracery OF ten
der rose or maiden-hair greenery at
the edge. and an aigrette to match on
one side. mingled with a standing spray
of vi0lets or roses.
Black and white gowns for Geni-
dress wear are extremely popular,
while a skirt of black satin looks we'll,
tinv rrills edged with the narrowest
white satin ribbon are used to trim the
skirt at the hem This decoration is
repeated in point yoke form on the
bodice and in triple Vandykes on the
sleeves. the yoke proper being OF white
satin yelled with jetted net
The shepherdess hat is one of the
new shapes for the coming summer. 1t
appears in fine chips in various pretty
calorings and in fancy lace and zephyr
braids and Milans in black. 1t has
low crown and medium wide brim and
what gives it its name is the odd crook
sfaaoad curve of the hat at the back.
first curling up, then turning down
aeain. and beneath this pretty arch are
,,Iaced clusters of violets, apple bios
SONS. shaded roses Of vari-colored tu-
.lins intermixed with braids OF hne
green foliage.
Leavening the Lump.
- rrraat-c-ro udSo who is con-