Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1898-07-02

la pnE, HollNiht Juhu ~ i'f2'
is mo- city In the world like Ia Paz.
Away back from the Pacific ocean,
across the highest range OF mountains
-, - hemisphere, In the least known !
,a,,,,,ry NJ South America, II lies In n
,,,t. iasln on one Of the highest
,is,esuu Of the earth l have seen the
wallis Of Picking. Of Jerusalem, and Of
Seoul the capital OF corea. None Of
them Is over fifty feet high. La Paz
has wall a thousand feet high. and up
ON one side " It towers the famed
snow.oapped peak Of 1liimani. one Of
the three highest Of the Andes. which
kisses the morning and evening suns
at an altitude OF more than four miles
above the sea. Man made the walls OF
other cities. God made the walls Of
Paz The great Bolivian plateau. which
stretches away TO tho north and south
almost as level as the waters Of Lake
Tltcaca. abruptly drops at la raz 50
"a 70 form here basin which by actual
measurements II about 1000 feet deep.
In this basin the city Is BUM ana the
green prccipltoua slopes form It's walls
except on ono side. where the Andes.
ragged and torn, rise In rugged gran
deur In all the colors u the Colorado
canyon Coming TO la Paz on the stage
from Lake Titicaca YOU ride Tor forty
i've miles across n plain. by villages of
mud huts. through little farms OF bar
Icy. qulnoa and potatoes. on one uidc
81 you II the mountain wall Of the great
sontl range. the highest Of the Andes.
and you gallop ON and ON over seem
lngly ondlcs plain. The team h one Of
eight mules. changed every three hours.
u you oil with the driver. aa dld.
you grow erred nj last and look In vain
through the clear air for the city. II Ia
nowhere In sight. AZ last on the brink
of prccipice the mules are pulled
back on their launches. the stage stops
and there below you lies La Pas. II Ia
90 far down that you can make out only
the outlincH.Yuu see aphin covered with
terra Cotta-ro0fed houses, jumblcd to-
rcther along narrow strects. Herr and
there Is a church. at one end Is the big
white building which forms the pcni-
Tertiary. and Just under you the walled
Enclosure made Of white pigeon holes
In which the dead la pazitca are
slowed away ut ~ much rent per year
until their descendants forget to pay
and The holes are wanted for the gem
otatiOna 10 come. The stage winds
about road that curves In and out
IN loops and figures IS In getting down
60 the city. You see parallel roads fur
below you. and ~ last having lott the
hoighta rnliup over the cobhle. stone
pavement Of Ia Pas. The town you
now nnd TO be one Of hills and valleys
Its streets 80 up and down and the al
titude IN such that you can walk but
a very Few steps without stopping to
breathe
A PERPETUAL MASQUERADE.
The sights % Ia paz form perpetual
masquerade ~ bright colorH and curl
Gus scenes. The very houses look as
though they were intended Tor the stage
rather than real lie. The roofs OF
terra Gotta tiles look 30 clean In the
clear all that you can count every
piece N which they arr made The
walls VI the houses ARE painted In tho
most delicate tinta ~ pink, sky blue.
lavender. yellow, creams and green.
They are o. one and two stories, 10
open 10 the street that you can 500
much that goes on within. The cnlOrs
on the STREETS are oven brighter than
those ~ the houses, There are IN the
city AZ least fve Indians 60 every white.
ana these dress IN the brightest reds.
yellowr. blues ana Frrenn that Rnlllna
dyes combined with the Indian taste
FOR the gnudy can make, The 81.
peclully bright garment Is the poncho
or blanket. with hole In the center foi
the neck. which every indian man and
boy wears. These are usually colored
IN stripes ana are worn almost con-
ptantly day and night Every Indian
has also hrieht-colored knit ear
with Knit hanging dawn
each side OF his face. and he sometimes
has In addition a black felt hat. He
wears pantaloons which make one think
OF the days when our girls padded
their hips and paunierH were In vogue
His pantaluona are cut fun at the hips
out az each side. The legs of tht
trousers are full and from tho knee
down 90 the back they are slit wide
apart, showing what at FIRST seem %
be wide drawers, which Hop about the
ankles. Investigate them, however
and you flnd they are drawers made on
The dlckey shirt order, or merely q han
leg Of white cotton sawed fast 20 The
inside Of tho legs OF the trousers, u
order that he may the easier roll NJ
the latter when In the wet grass ol
crossing stream. The Indian wumcl
wear hats and their dresses are az
gaudy as the blankets of the men, anf
everywhere there are other queer COS
tumea, as We shall see in the markets
further On.
WHERE THE cABMAN DOES MOI
RULE.
Ia paz has abou, so 900 people n 4
the chief commercial city of Bolivia
but II has not street car, a cab no.
drny' ! doubt " II has dozen pm
yate carriages, and as for one and two
horse wagons these are unknown. II
gnlng about town everyone walks, nn'
all ~ the heavy traffic Is carried ~
by mules, donkeya, llnmas or Indiana
My trunks are carried from one pluc
20 another on the backs nf Indians un'
! pay each man about eight cents
trunk. The bread carrier Of la Pa
~ donkey with skin boxes, IN whicl
the bread N kept, swung across hi
back Tho beer wagon IL a mule win
has a large case uf bottles upon encl
ef itH Sides, and the furniture mover
whether the thing moved be a table %
plano, are Indians, Who carry N
articles upon their bnclla, heads %
shoulders, from one house Ia the Other
Freight N brought into the city o
mules. Ilamaa, dunkeys and lndinn'
The fuel OF the city II. as | have said
llama manure. This all comes In o
the hacks OF llamaH In bags. Coco I
brought chiefly ON donkoyH and Peru
Wan bark ana rubber from the hottie
lands lower down come the same way
/ IA "a 0Nn tl4I "a la "a %