The times., 1898-12-04


shape of hat and color of decoration
that most nearly harmonizes with her
individual complexion and features
Would that this were so. because only
a select coterie would then presume to
wear the pretty but most exacting lit
tie marquse chapeau.
But milliners propose, and the ruck
of womankind dispose. Just now they
dispose to make. the marquise the reign
ing headgear, and it outclasses all other
hats at the rate of fifteen to five. In
itself the marquise is a charming toque
invariably showing tier of wings ris-
ing in front above the hair, and women
hove to wear it in a very accentuated
tone of blue velvet. The wings. whether
white, gray or black. are always picked
out in bright. spangled dots of jet, and
in the rear there is apt to show a spat-
tering of flowers.
An adaptation of the marquise shape
for evening use is the pompadour bon
net, tangled web of lace or tulle. roll
ed well back from the face, bristling with
spikes of jet and seemingly so airy that
II might float off its owners head at any
moment. one great charm of these lit
tie bonnets is the possibilities of almost
exact imitation by the amateur hand
they suggest and they can be worn to
the theater with an easy conscience
What number of pretty trifies wom-
en- do wear, anyway, at the theater.
Their muffs are not usually fur ones
but sort of baggy things of Liberty silk
wearing broad belts of flowers about their
fat middles. That is to say, gray chif-
fon muff. perhaps edged with narrow
line of chinchi.la, will wear a wide girdle
of violets. while lilac silk affair will be
belted with pink velvet roses set on quite
fiat and close together. Such muffs are
made and sold by the milliners, who have
shown their customers the trick of wear
ing these muffs slung about the neck by
chain of small crystal beads
For some reason or other, women cling
TO and wear chains of gold, or gun metal.
silver or beads, and now that the novelty
value OF locket hearts lorgnons, etc, has
been exhausted, the willy jewellers have
kept up the traffic In neck chains by intro
ducing tiny smelling bottles of precious
metals. They bear no relation to the IA
miliar yinagrette. They are no larger
and scarcely thicker than 50-cent pieces;
they are round and have short necks with
perforated silver shoppers. Attached to
ones chain, such a smelling bottle can be
thrust into the belt or front of a bodice
or left 10 hang free, and its exterior can
be as simple richly ornate as ones
taste and purse command. Neither salts
nor liquid perfume are used inside. but
deliciously perfumed little seeds that come
by way Of Russia from the East. By
turning the stopper of her bottle, a the
atergoer can either shut off or let flow the
delicate fragrance from the contents of
her toy. and only twice or thrice a sea
-l,a how . ha hnttl 10
filed.
With the near approach OF the holiday
season and ali Its attendant gayeties, the
mid-winter crop of ball gown garnitures
has suddenly blossomed out. AS a rule
only very youthful danes will wear the
long, exquisite wreaths of fuchsias and
coral honeysuckle that the dressmakers
are draping on tulle net and liberty silk
costumes. Older women evince great
liking for the most marvellous decoration
done in clematis ferns and leaves. A gray
satin gown done in Paris for Mrs. Wilson
had fringes of maidenhair fern falling like
fine lace n a bertha about the shoulders
and edging the founces on her Louis XIV
skirt
Another admirable toilet, but made
in New York for Mrs. Herman Oelrichs,
was of the richest dahlia velours anti
que and no other drapery was used than
grape leaves, some green and many warm
with autumnal coloring. The texture OF
the true grape leaf was faultlessly imi-
tated by the use of the thinnest kid,
painted TO catch the proper untings.
Lovely clusters of climatis are made by
using ostrich plumage, and among the
artificial vines japanese ivy. Virg MA
creeper and the beautiful poison oak are
copied.
There was a hiatus of many weeks in
nf ~, aSl1 bitf
frippery has come up to time with new
method in its wearing. Ever so many
lovely girlish gowns show two broad
bands OF the heaviest Russian lace o.
spangled ribbon edged with tiny mu Sin
fiounces, which in turn are edged With
narrow dark velvet ribbon The two
broad bands are caught in at the shoul-
der seam, run down to meet at the waist
line and then flow out to the hem of the
skirt This is done usually at the rear of
the gown, and on evening and house toll
cts independently. Ii is a very good sug-
gestion to follow in the renovation of an
old black silk dress, for instance The
charm of the invention is, however, that
the arrangement is just as effec tive.y ap-
piled in front If you are slim enough TO
stand 1t.
The latest prank in sleeve decoration
and this is a regular find for the woman
whose best dress sleeve is giving away al
the elbow-is to make the arm bag II
two pieces of diametrically different
goods and colors. To be more explicit, Il
the inside of the arm is covered, we will
say with black silk, the outside half !!
clothed in gray renaissance lace, or ruck-
ed moss green velours antique. or very
full-gathered geranium red chiffon. The
edges of the outside half always overlap
the inner portion, which is usually KEEP,
quite smooth, and in a plain dark color
Frequently silk velvet sleeve in any
solid tint will be thickly sewed with jet:
or seQuins over its outer half or striped
with narrow, perpendicular bands of stee
beads. or lace; or ribbon, If the sleeve i
lightweight goods.
The acme of smartness in a collar thes
days is to have it grip the neck close ant
high. and the height of it to be cut in
series of points or scallops, so that tn
face is held in a fair imitation of a ros
calyx. Flowering out under your chi
you can have a big tulle bow. wild
brooch of lace or an eighteenth centur,
cravat falling to the bust, but the foun
dation of the collar is hardly more com
Portable than a seat in the stocks or tn
hangman's moose.
There is deal Of pother just nov
over the ever-lively question of a prop
er corset Two seasons ago Frencl
dressmakers fatty refused to fit any GUS
toner save over a corset that was short
low at the bust, high on the hip. an
boasting only three hooks in front. It /
well-known fact that as the body i
corseted. so will it grow. but having in
frn ha ravfu N