The Red Cloud chief., 1898-12-09
If You Are Slim, Have It Gathered; Otherwise
Fit lt-SkirtS Made of Silks That Do Not
Rustle-All. Have Ruff1es.

The shops that make n speciality OF
lingerie exhibit great quantities OF
pretty underskirts. with the rufles
and puffs and lace appltques arranged
In such divers patterns that there are
no duplicates to be found.
A hoop that support underskirts for
ball gowns boasts only the palest
shades Of violet. pink, yellow and blue,
along with an unusual number OF
ivory satin skirts. They are orna-
mented with innumerable frills OF
mousseline de sole and the other gauzy
materials.
The skirts to be worn with boudoir
robes are hardly less elaborate. though
their most characteristic features Is the
e~laborateness Of the trimming on the
front gore. 1t is intended to show
under the loose robe.
Between the skirts intended for Wis
iting toilets and those designed to be
worn with tailor-made costumes there
is less difference. The latter, though,
are quito a bit shorter and never ex-
sOho oCioW tuS SuOC tODS. TUT tuClI
pretty frills and ribbons could not be
trailed along the wet, muddy, winter
sidewalks here.
The preference for crisp, rustling
taffeta for underskirts Is not so marked
at present. So many OF the women
OF taste have a horror of announcing
their presence by q great rustic of silk
skirts, that soft brocades and faille
are chosen. Then, too, a stiff rustling
taffeta is generally woven with spun
glass, which, while insuring a smart
fare. splits at every crease after a
few weeks wear.
A soft taffeta skirt, designed to be
worn with a tailor built gown, was
In a pretty shade Of bright olive green.
1t was trimmed with a frill OF silk that
commenced on both sides OF the front
gore five inches in width and, increas-
ing in depth. reached half way to the
waist at the hack. At the top there
was a pointed yoke, with narrow
strips of blue green and dark red vel
vet ribbon, arranged over 1t in a plaid.
The same effect was repeated on the
bottom Of the frill. giving It an effec-
tive and durable finish.
1 Another chic skirt to be worn with
q tailor built gown was Of dull red
taffeta. It fitted close owe the hips
and was trimmed with O graduating
founce Of the same, sixteen inches at
the front and twenty-eight at the
back. Black lace bowknots were ap-
pliQued over the %flounces. A narrow
frtl composed OF taffeta and black
lace entre-deux, and bordered with a
black lace ruche, finished the edge of
the Aounce.
Two or three petticoats were made to
fasten on both aides OF the front gore.
% that they should remain intact even
Il the skirt gaped at the back.
When one Of these u~nderskirts Is
made to order It Is designed accord
Ing to the purchaser's build. For stou,
wenen the upper part Of the skirt
often formed like a yoke. Is glove-ft-
ting. For q too slender figure deici'
eDeaes sre made up by. having the silk
eatheSed full over the hips and back
A skirt that was to be worn with
Q hoadoir gown Of primrose crepe dc
chAne was made of faille In a decidedly
deeper shade Of yellow. The apron
was covered entirely with a dainty
pieoe of shantilly lace bordered with
striped yellow and white gauze ribbon,
Tho ribbon was arranged in bowknots
and appliQued on the top of the skirt
eh fall narrow frills Of yellow nous.
ssAas de sole trimmed the bottom oil