The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-11-19

space filled with white chiffon, over which
was sewed fine black thread lace. Thu
sleeves fitted closely except at the wrists,
where they Jared, with embroidered cuffs
lined with maize satin and edged with
lace.
The collar was in the tudor shape, stiff
with embroidery and with full shirring of
maize crepe lisse over maize satin. The
wearer looked IS if she had just stepped
down out of an old picture for an after
Moons chat with her great-granddaugh-
tcrs.
There is a pronounced revival of the
ancient mantle and p~elisse, and some of
them are really very handsome, while the
othsEs do not strike me with much favor,
for i do not think them worth the labor
and expansive materials put upon them.
They are clumsy and cumbersome with
out warmth or grace and devoid of any
beauty except such sc bslongs to the rich
materials.
For instance, pslisse has a close,
fiat yoke of Persian lamb skin. To this Is
plated a voluminous cloak reaching to the
bottom of the dress in heavy folds In the
back and left straight in front, with the
ends out, away In the slsnting form now
SO fashionable. The collar is large and
naring. One can readily see that q mantle
of this shape is really of little actual bene-
ct and is not beautiful enough in itself to
give it a reason for being. There are,
however, some very handsome long cloaks,
and they are warmer, and some ulsters
and ~redingotes Of heavy and expensive
stuffs which make up superbly, especially
when decorated with fur and richly lined.
Many of the short cutaway coats and
capes are completely lined with fine fur,
usually Persian, broad tail or MORE astra-
khan. Some of the jaunty etons and bo-
leSos for youngish ladies are lined with
fur Of one kind or another. This shows as
edging and as lapels and collar facings.
The gray astrakhan and chinchilla and
grebe breasts are all well suited for max
ing the lapels and Innings, though rather
costly.
A gray repped poplin gown for a young
lady had a row of gray hercules braid
sewed around to simulate a Dewey founce
for sole skirt trimming. There was a
waist" of baby blue india silk with a
soft stock collar and cravat bow of the
same. Over this was worn a double breast
ed eton jacket, fastened with four silver
bar buttons. The jacket was lined with
gray Persian lamb, and the reyers were
faced with it. The whole jacket was bor-
dcred with one row of wide hercules
braid. A belt to the skirt was made Of
that also. The illustration shows how it
looks.
Much can be and is done with braid this
rtason, but it Is generally applied in new
ways. The most original fancy / have
seen was displayed in trimming a dark
green whipcord suit. The skirt was made
~ ct snugly over the hips and lay in a fiat
f,Id in the back. Around the whole skirt
and above the knees was q design of in
terlaced ]oopsof wide soutache braid. Tbs
short jacket was completely covered,
sleeves and all, with the braid sewed on IN
the interlaced loop design. a narrow Dor
der OF black astrakhan went arcund the
collar and down the 'front.', which fastened
fnvisibly. Tbs trimming was very effect
we. This is but n OF q hundred designs.
/ saw ons where the narrouest width Of
softacbe wns cooled round and round on
tho dress material Ia 8 dat disk At least 8
inches III d1anaeter. This was at the low
~ point d an apron aha1nd tFimIpizR