The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-08-24
FASHION NOTES.


will be in great vogue during the two
seasons before us.
Double-faced cashmere and drap
dete will share French honors with We
netian cloth in the making of elegant
tailor costumes for dress occasions.
Silk gimps, velvet ribbon in various
widths, white satin, and gold braid are
the chosen decorations for these gowns;
otherwise cream or white satin, over
laid with guipure lace, will be used.
Tucking, milliners' folds, and rows
of galloon or ribbon trim many of the
new light-wool gowns for general wear.
These are all simple modes of garnish-
ing a dress; none the less are they
really desirable from decorative point
of view, and to all present appearances
are likely to be as popular this autumn
as they have been for several seasons
past.
Some of the new glace crepes de
Chine have more of the effect of silk
brocade than crepe de Chine as we
know it; and most of the new weaves
are in very gay colorings and effects.
These fabrics are almost transparent,
and are designed to take the place when
desired, of the heavier Marie Antoin-
cite brocades, taffetas, figured failes,
and fancy satins.
Silk-warp white serges, trimmed with
lace or satin straps and small white
pearl tailor buttons, form very charm.
ing costumes for the early autumn,
while mohairs are similarly used.
These greatly improved fabrics are
manipulated just as silk materials are,
and even those made in tailor fashion
for the street are silk lined and light
ened on the front with chiffon trim
mings.
There is an odd tendency among
many French ateliers to trim the most
delicate and diaphanous evening toilets
with velvets, not the familiar velvet
ribbons, but in bands from two to
three and one-half inches in width, in
large bow-knots, folds, and the like;
these trimmings having a heavy APP
pearance not in keeping with the ma
ture Of the gown.
A chic little waist from Maison
Weille is made of mauve and gold.shot
silk. The front turns away in broad,
fiat folds from vest of cream-white
satin. The ruffies at the top of the
close coat-sleeves are lined with white
satin, as are also the cuffs, which fall
in point over the hand. Down the
front Of the white-satin vest and on
the inner-arm seam are small gold and
opal buttons, joined by "a narrow-twist-
ed gold cord.
Satin duchesse remains in great favor
among French dressmakers and tailors.
It is used for entire evening toilets and
and for various elegant dress occasions.
1t is popular for three very good rea-
sons. 1t is extremely pliable, yet is
very rich and heavy in effect, quite un-
like many of the soft light-textured
satins in use; it has very lustrous
surface; and, again, it wears infinitely
better than most of the satins now
manufactured.
Fichu and bertha effects and oddly
draped close-cut sleeves, laced on the
outside Of the arm from the wrist to ell
bow, appear on many of the new street
redingotes and Louis XIV. polonaise
designed for the autumn and winter.
Very handsome striped silk and wool
fabrics and striped satins will be used
among other materials in the making
Of the graceful garments. On more
youthful models appear large sailor col
lars and guimpe and fancy jacket
effects.
Short-jscket effects are still used on
autumn-day gowns and evening toilets,
with sometimes the pretty change of
making even the very short models
double-breasted, Tapped far to the left
side and fastened with medium-sized
buttons of handsome quality. On some
of the costumes, these jackets form
portion of the waist, being sewed in
with the shoulder and under-arm
seams, and these are most often of vel
vet over wool. Other suits show sep
arate entire-velvet jacket, with natty
silk vest-front, and with these costumes
it is intended that the jacket shall be
worn in lieu of light wrap during the
entire autumn season.-New York
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