The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-07-10
MISUNDERSTANDING
,fME. LIE PLONGEoNs EXPLORATIONS
IN YUCATAN.

In n Central American Forest-Rattle-
snakes Alive and in st~ews-DnnEers from
I~ndinns-DeliEhts Of Trousers in n Forest.
Archaeology Is the last thing one would think
NJ in connection with Nine. Le Plongeon.
There Is no flavor OF ruins and antiquities
about her; on the contrary, sho is modern TO
her finger tips; yet she has endured untold
discomforts and dared a host of dangers In the
interests Of science, and she talks OF prehistoric
peoples and OF YucatAn bas reliofs as famil-
iarly as most women talk OF clothes.
She was not born TO archaeology but married
a in the person OF DIR. lie Plongeon, when she
Uasa girl of1a Dr.Le Plongeon had spent many
venrs in the study Of American antiquities, and
his stories Of the. life and work made his bride
look upon archaeology as a most fascinating
pursuit. Later. she cultivated the serious zeal
OF the antiquarian; but, when one hears her
tel OF her years in Yucatan and Honduras. with
their difficulties and dangers, their dlscomforts
and delights. one cannot help thinking that It
was the poetic, picturesque side Of the expert
ence that appealed most strongly to her.
though she made reverent obeisance 10 the
ugly gods which her husband unearthed.
At the time OF his marriage DR.. lie PlonReon
vas planning an examination Of the ancient
ruins ~ Yucatan. but the honeymoon was spent
IN New York in order that Nine. 10 Plongeon
might learn Spanish. Yucatan is only two hours
lnil from luDU, anu mas TOCeUuy muu0 lOnR
atrides In progress; but when the lie PlonReons
arrived in Merida in 1873 the town was far from
imposing. and the smaller places were pain
fully primitive. The first use Nine. Le Plongeon
made Of her opportunity for acquiring
new experience was to fall Ill with
yellow fever. The natives cheerfully In
sisted that she could not live. and made
preparations for her burial on the sixth day;
but, thanks TO the fact that her husband was a
physician as well Us an archeologist. she
pulled through, and enjoyed the proud dis
tinction OF being the only white victim Of that
particular epidemic who escaped the under
taker. When she had recovered from her i'll
ness. the delayed expedition started; and for
eleven years the husband and wife worked
earnestly, undauntedly toward a solution OF the
problems hidden In the ruins Of AXE. Ishtul,
and Chichcn.
"The life was hard, +" said Nine. Le Plongeau.
"There were fatiguing journeys. uncomforta-
bic quarters. troublesome insects. omnipresent
dirt, frequent dangers, and often gnawing hun-
ger. Sometimes we would be where we could
not get supplies, not even the mouldy ~tortillas
and black beans which were our usual re-
source. We would hunt for deer or other
game, but somehow or other game always
eludes n starving man. I've seen the time
when I was so hungry that 1 was In abject de-
npair because a rattlesnake escaped me-"
I'D call that a cause for thanksgiving" said
the reporter.
Nine. LIE Plongeon smiled. and her smile is a
very pleasant one. though It comes and goes
goes suddenly. and lies In her great gray eyes
rather than on her lips.
But l wanted a r%attlesnake stew. Oh. you
needn't look disguised. It's very good. I as
sure you: and a rattlesnake is much handsomeI
than an eel. II you are looking at the esthet!c
side Of the question. Then, n rattlesnake's es-
cape would be no special cause for thanksgiv.
ing. anyway. They are amiable creatures"
The reporter looked dubious and remarked
Eve always understood that they had a few
little peculiarities that were annoying"
mot at all" Nine. lie Plongeon insisted. "a
Mttlesnake never bothers any one II he isn't
insulted. There were hundreds Of them dow
In Yucatan. and 1 never had a moments dis.
agreement with one except I wanted 1t for
stew. | remember we were once going through
the forest in search OF deer. DR.. Le Plongeon
was ahead, I came next. and an Indian lad fol-
lowed. ! stopped to examine a gigantic toad
stool. and was hungrily wishing 1t was a self
respecting mushroom. when the Indian shout
Cd, Go away I supposed he thought the
toadstool was poisonous and l would touch IL
on saying 90 away and looked 50 fright
SHed that hurried on e Join my husband
must have been touching him where ! stood
though he meant to say; Now. get out Of this
9 Vent s SStneF Hoa m see h. aP %aSSls Sit t. aim f Fo1
that matter ! meyer saw a snake that was, and
yet SSs the 1S,f GSHntry d otET , there ret pbGI n1dsI in 6 poison n
saslswor@,, but II got ! 80 That I didn't fesI
9nakeS at all. Som Of them were very boapti;
stepping down from a big stone wher
Gut from under II came 9 superb snake about
Of Jet black and bright coral. He had his heai
IN the, air. and we looked at one another with
@%ip he F poIitsiy, sRl RidH%'S a8 SaS f pntt;in A!t on = SG Few
extra graces and curves, | aneied, because b
h iPls c I TG snS TSssh b dEsa hiR; b Tt f,y Ts sSme Gf sst
out q my room before | GcsouRld GO t., bed.
.so gat nOi nor a t6e ta @aRS Sss f bat 1 d E%e seS
the insects. The miserable things tumbled on
pore Sde, thar the P%PpthsTs and wild creatures tina,
was from the hostile Indians. They had beer
o. the W. war up path q = since e cb bs5Ea: and Inb,o when en- W W.
tkold US we would never come back alive
ESf tS ss ioTsst E ySssrs b nS Dr. Gnf e PC Piong Ss1a1 saiG
the Indians would probably never know W.
were there; and that the ruins weTe, the mos
study them; 50 we Went: The Goyernmen
gave us q military escort 70 help us force Ss on,
NoJ nINuBn Nv IDTcsb hnu ~ ClouT IIo pInbi
away from the ruins; but they were soon CALLED
Sway to help EepGlAo an Indian attack, snS
SSo t acted G as s%oStins sfT ana d''4 suid esais ans
Seat % P Ps With tss Dt the ES %liit0r AZ on nisst, a w
slept there. II had been quite a village. but tn
INDIANS had sacked and burned 1t. numbering
vent were left standing. but the qovernmen
Fortified those buildings and put 2 few soldier
There. | slept In a little chapel behind the altar
and II wasn't exactly luxurious, Several time
There were alarms that the Indians were com
Ing, hut, luckily, they were always false. Their
were no women at the fort. ! hadn't been abl
there with me.
They are gentle, timid creatures. the Indial
MMomen oil. Yucatan, and very good and modest
Inc men hold women In the highest esteem, !
y really beautiful to ace such a spirit, IL seem
That, years ago. before the white people invade'
%lucatan, the native Indians had steIn laws y
regard to the treatment Of women, The slight
est disrespect was heavily punished and tn,