The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-08-14

New I Ork sun.
Women who follow all of fashions guises
cannot take the hot weather coolly. Why?
Because when the time comes for them to
revel in the diaphanous gowns of crepe de
chine, organdie, muslin, silk and the like
they have to turn their attention to autumn
styles or else fall hopelessly behind the pro-
cession of the well dressed Man and wom-
an are different in their ways of looking at
everything, even clothes Man supp les him
self with a hot weather wardrobe suitable
to his position in society and then proceeds
to enjoy it, Not so with woman. She sup
plies herself with no end of clothing that
makes one fairly cool to look at, but she
does not enjoy it. for when the mercury is
at the sizzling point she is racking her brain
to know what will be worn in the fall.
One might suppose that it was still too
early to prophesy concerning the styles for
the next season. but already the autumn
tailor-made gown has made its appearance.
Inc tallor-made gown is ever the forerun-
ner of winter as It is of summer. Before
woman learns how her next seasons gowns
are to be made she wants to know what
they are to be made of. An authority who
has just returned from London and Paris
says that broadcloth of an exquisite quality
is in great demand for early fall gowns,
and that it will play prominent part in
fashions domain all winter. Mixed meltons
and venetianS are high in favor for what
are known as severe costumes which, by
the way, are far less severe than ever be-
fore. What the trade calls piece goods have
a decided preference over the novelties so
fashionable during the spring and even at
the moment. True, a few extreme things
in novelties are promised the cool season
advances, but they will not be used for en-
tire dresses. They will be combined with
plain materials For instance, the frill of
a skirt or its apron-lilxe overskirt and the
sleeves and trimming of the waist will be
made of fancy material, while the rest of
the costume will be plain.
In point of color light gray holds it's own
for dresSy gowns, and castor effects prevail
for street wear and for general use at fash
ionable autumn resorts Blue is a cold
color, and will not be used in all of its
varying shades as it has been since early
spring. The conventional blues, reds,
vogue for those of a practical turn Of mind,
as they always are.
A feature of the new materials is the
lightness of their weight. which manufac-
turers have succeeded in procuring without
loss of body. 1t is impossible to give the
proper cut to a tailor-made costume unless
the stuff of which it is made has consider
able body, and yet women nowadays abSo-
lutely refuse to wear the very heavy ma
terials that they once donned without a
love for outdoor sports is responsible for
this reform, for wheeling. golfing boating
and all other sports do not go with dress
skirts heavy enough to bend the strongest
back almost into an interrogation mark:
The skirts of the introductory tailor
made gowns are unlined Authorities say
that it is impossible to give them the prop
er set with even the thinnest of silk lin
ing, they must cling skin tight to the
hips and end in a fan-like flare at the bot
up a few inches with silk, and all are worn
with fluffy silk petticoat.