davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
AFGHAN WOMEN,
High Caste Mothers Have a Lonely
Time of Ii.

From the Philadelphia Press.
If there are any women In the world who
have a right to die of ennui, it is those poor
creatures of Afghdnistan, the uppcr-class
DANES. They spend their days doing abso-
lutely nothing, for they disdain sewing,
cooking and general household duties: they
leave the care of their children to slaves,
and they can neither read nor write.
Generally in a rich house there is Gro
Chief slave, a sort of housekeeper, rather a
grand person, whom it is always wise to
conciliate if you intend having many deal
irgs with that establishment. In summer
she is always dressed in purest white; in
winter, velvets and brocades are not be-
yond her reach. She is generally an elderly
person, with considerable influence and
good deal of authority.
Then there is another who is a sort OF
maid to the lady of the house; she is anoth-
er person with whom it is not wise to quar-
rel; she is always very much ia evidence.
She ii is who prepares everything for her
mistress toilet, as also for her masters. It
Is the wife's special duty and privilege
however, when the things are prepared, to
wait upon her husband, when he IS dress
ing, to pour the water over his hands and
feet, during his religious washings, to
spread his prayer carpet, to put his favor
lite dish before him, and SO on.
1t is difficult to appreciate the exact posi-
VI tucsS <tlSAdH Nouitu uillll one secs
the way I'm which mothers are treated by
their sons. They may nurse them when
tley are sick, tend them when they are
young, but let the boys grow to he eleven or
twelve years old and you will hear them
tell their mother to "chup sho" shut up),
send them to fetch their caps and expect to
be addressed by the mothers as 'agha gull"
or ''agha JONI which means. my precious
MASTER master dear"
Cabul mothers seldom have much affec-
ton for their children or their children for
them; they do not nurse them as babies,
and their babyhood is q particularly long
one, for they are very backward. They be-
long to their nurses more than 10 their
mothers till they Two and a half years
old, and after that II is their father who
notices them and not their mother.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
FROM CHURCH TO CLOTHES.
How n Spanish Woman Puts on Her
MantiIla.
From Harpers Razar.

From Harpets Bazaar.
When 4 sonora or senorita turns her mind
from the church ii is TO think of clothes;
in fact, the two thoughts often run togeth-
er, as there is much churchgoing in Spain
The mantilla pronounced as though speIt
marn-tealya), although a browning distinc-
ton and distinctive mark of Spanish wo-
men, is worn by ultra-fashionable ladies
only to the bull fights. theaters, annual
fairs, to early mass and on summer even
ings; not when calling or shopping. Only
Old ladies and questionable persons do not
wear bonnets.
The mantilla is an oblong piece of lace
measuring yard and il half in length and
two-thrds of yard in width. The front
and sides have a border finish, while the
bottom is trimmed with a fiounce a quarter
OF a yard deep. which rounds up the side
edges about seven inches
In order TO hold this graceful lace the
hair must be piled high on the top of the
head Place the front edge of the mantiIla
along the upper line of the forehead, fasten
to the hair with a pin. after making sure
that the ends which hang on either side of
the face are exactly even in length With
q hand little above each ear pinch the
lace and draw it back to the crown of the
lead. where 1t is very slightly Tapped and
fastened by another pin. The fiounce
which falls naturally about the shoulders
Is caught in by the front ends and pinned
at the breast.
II American ladies would only learn how
10 arrange mantilla II would certainly be-
come fashionable for the theater as ii is
20 becoming. Spanish women are tradi-
toildily fascinating Let any other woman
who knows how TO wear a passablv becorn-
irS nat and has only been considered meat
looking or pleasant looking" wear a
H.dntiiia Tor trial. and people will change
IL softens the face wonderfully. Doubt ali
VINO protest that only a Spanish woman
could arrange the thing" or that lit is be-
coming to a certain style alone;" believe
that IL only takes three movements of the
hands and three pins to put on a mantilla.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
A Leading Authority INDUCES in a
Look Ahead.
NEWEST SKIRTS HAVE FULL TRAINS
Fashionable Sleeves Have Assumed
Most Becoming Shape.
ARTISTIC EVENING GOWN
SPECIAL Carrespo nienee of The Evening Star.

Special Core po ndenee of The Eysnin. Star
VIENNA. December ~, 1897
We are forced to greet the new year with
sensational and unwelcome announce
ment-the skirt train is reviving.
Many new skirts show a decided elonga-
ton at the back, and some rather precipi-
tate establishments are taking time by the
forelock in catering fully to Fashions OBJ
ligatory DEGREES, and are showing full
fledged trains on all new skirts, and thus
bringing before US mental visions of whirl-
ing clouds of dust sticky crusts of mud
which prove the horror of every sensible
and self-reSpecting person.
We can but recommend hearty opposition
on the part of our fair readers to this
tyrannicaI mandate. while We ourselves will
do all In our power TO force the train back
to its proper dOmain-the smooth parquet
of the ball room or drawing room.
In other respects the skirt still adheres
style for tall women is a tight skirt which
Is smooth to the knees, where it finishes
with a founce. Bias strips. braiding or
embroidery conceal the line of application
of the hounce to the skirt. This nounce is
unlined when made of heavy cloth and falls
lightly and gracefully over the silk founda-
ton skirt.
Many skirts are slashed in front over a
petticoat of contrasting or trimmed goods
generally edged at the hem with a narrow
band of fur.
The revived mode of trimming gowns in
vertical lines has the great advantage of
making the figure appear taller and more
slender.
The Princess
Another style, which invariably proves
fattering to a full figure. is the princess
The princess is the most elegant and
recherche because it cannot become popu-
lar, as, to be properly made, it must issue
from the hands Of an artist in the dress
making line Little imperfections are east
ly hidden by the cOncilating belt at the
waist line of the separate skirt and bodice
but the slightest mistake made in the con-
struction of Il princess gown is unconceal-
able.
A new idea in opposition to the irrepressi-
Bile Russ an blouse is the tight waist, round
in front and finishing with a belt, while
the back is elongated into short coat tails
The Russian blouse, with or without
basque, is still Fashions favorite for street
and house wear. Many blouse bodices of
black or dark cloth are cut round at the
neck, showing yoke and standing collar of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

Here's a mathematical problem which the
Boston Pest observer heard a bank mes
senger putting to a man of figures the other
day: "a banker found a $40 bill. At home
he gave it to his wife, who paid the butcher
in settlement of his account. The butcher
paid 1t to the farmer for a calf, and the
farmer paid it to the merchant, who in
turn paid it to the washerwoman, and she
owing the banker note of $1O went to the
banker and paid the note. The banker
recognized the bill as the one he had found
and which up to that time had paid $50
worth of debt. On a careful examination
he found the bill was a counterfeit" Of
course, the problem is, Who lost in the
transaction?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

light silk. yelled with yellowish lace or
! richly embroidered A narrow strip of fur
edges the yoke.
Guipure Irish laces are in great de-
mand for day and evening gowns. Other
fashionable trimmings are narrow velvet
ribbons sewed on at close intervals for
evening wear, while outdoor costumes are
elaborate with decorations of braid and
soutache. Narrow pipingS of satin are a
preferred mode of decoration on light cloth
or velvet toilets.
Beautiful Belts.
Belts are varied as well as beautiful.
They are made of chain links of more or
less costly metals, sometimes set with
precious semi-precious stones. Leather
belts have exquisite buckles of precious
metals enameled or tiligreed, and ribbon or
silk belts close al the side. front or back
under a graceful butterfly or standing
bows
The sleeves are shrinking mere and more
and have assumed Il most becoming shape.
proving a fertile field for the fantasy of
the dressmaker. Plaits and folds in verti-
cal and horizontal lines form the sleeve,
which is generally capped at the shoulder
by slight puff epaulet.
The middle ages also seem to contribute
to modern productions, for the slashed
sleeve of the ancient cavalier sans peur
ct sans reproche' and Marguerte's dainty
arm covering have been remodeled for the
modern representative of the fair sex.
Sometimes the sleeves are of different
material from the rest of the gown, as for
instance velvet sleeves finish a dress of
cloth, satin constitutes the sleeves of a
velvet gown and heavy silk toilets show
novelty in shape of richly embroidered
cloth sleeves.
Our model of today is of a reception
gown. the artistic merit of which will APP
peal to the most refined taste.
White and Blue Satin.
The overskirt is composed of white and
blue satin striped in wide zigzag lines
The white lines are covered with shirred
white tulle and then cut so as to form a
transparent insertion of tulle between the
blue satin stripes, and showing the white
satin petticoat underneath
The overskirt is edged at the hem with
full narrow ruche of pinked white satin.
and has revers of heavy cream ANTIQUE
lace. embroidered with gold and spangles
and opening over tablier of white Vic
toria lace. also embroidered with gold
thread and spaneles
The front of the tight deeply decollete
bodice OF blue and white satin forms a
vest OF the same lace as the tablier
The shoulder drapery consists of q
graceful 1all of lace over the upper arm.
leaving the shoulder bare and extendns 6,
IN deep revers along the sides of the vest
and finally ending under the large buckle
OF diamonds which finishes the folded heIt
of mandarin velvet
Narrow bias bands of the same velvet
cover the gathering Of the sleeve drapery
and form the shoulder strans ubicb - ~
attached with small diamond bucklas IT.
race at the back of the bodice is arranped
INTO Kind of surplice which is accentu-
ated by sprig of yellow velvet blossoms
a small bunch of the same blossoms deco
Idte the ieft side of the decollete in front
let. 1 '''is 'oi-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
Clever Sfamese Girls,

From London Society.
The dancing girls of Siam are remarkable
for the agility and grace of their move
ments. Thu cup dance is the prettiest and
most poetic of all. A row of young girls
with tier Of cups on their heads, take
their places in the middle of the great hall
burst of joyous music follows. On hear
ing this they simultaneously with military
precision, kneel down. fold their hands and
bow their heads until their foreheads al
most touch the polished marble floor keep
ing the cups steadily on their heads by
suddenly springing to their feet, they de-
scribe a succession of rapid and intricate
circles. keeping time to the music with their
arms, head and feet. Next the music swells
into rapturous tumult. The dancers raise
their delicate feet, curve their arms and
fingers in almost impossible textures, sway
to and fro like withes of willow, agitate
all the muscles of the body like the fiutter
of leaves in the soft evening breeze, but
still keep the cups on their heads.
The dancing girls of Bangkok are always
exercising in the royal gymnasium. Their
ages vary from five to twenty years. The
curious and subtle feat of picking up a
bit Of straw with the eyelids can be learned
only by the youngest of them, who are
made to practice 1t in order to render them
flexible in every part of the body. There
are two long rows Of benches. one little
higher than the other. On the lower is a
row Of little girls and on the upper bench
are laid the polished bits of straw. At the
sound Of the drum the little girls all to-
gether bend back the head and neck until
they touch the bits Of straw. which, with
wonderful dexterfty, they secure between
the corners Of their eyelids.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08


gan to flow freely
yesterday afternoon !
saw that l might as
well abandon hope of
getting the word l
wanted with t h e
handsome young ma
iron who was pour
ing. She is a popular
person a n d two
thirds of the guests
came to her side of
t h g table, leaving
two pretty but shy
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

tervals. The throat was finished with a
plain band. A hat was worn of heliotrope
velvet with black feathers.
Novel Dress.
A novel dress of military blue silk ap-
peared at the afternoon tea with which
this disquisition began. The clinging skirt
was tighter than usual about the hips and
was covered to within half a yard of the
hem by narrow, thick-set ruff1es. A deep
nounce of navy blue cloth then assumed re-
sponsibility This was faced with silk and
headed with a band of Persian lamb. Like
most founces of this day, it sloped up on
the sides. thus acCentuating the flare of the
skirt bottom. The bodice of this costume
was a coat blouse of Persian lamb. finished
with high collar, square revers and a huge
white lace tie.
More curious combinations than this of
silk and wool are becoming customary.
nave seen within a few days a number of
handsome silk dresses. trimmed with mil
liners folds of cloth of the heavier kinds
The blouse of one of the pretty tea pour
ers was free from eccentricities. 1t was of
wmte silk gauZe over pale yellow silk; the
gauze was arranged in a latticework of
puffs, front, back and sleeves
ELLEN OSBORN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
FASHIONS IN FUR WRAPS
The Collars and Capes That Are Popular
This Season.
Wise Hints of the Latest Fancies by
an AuthOrffy-MateriaI
and Lengths.

"Furs are being worn more than ever
this winter said a fur dealer the other
day. In fact | think furs will grow in
favor every year. Their warmth and be-
comingness endear them to every woman's
heart. Sealskin, mink, Russian sable, Per-
sian chinchilla and ermine are about equal
ly divided as to their popularity, with per-
haps a trifle in favor of Persian. The Per-
sian and Russian sable blouses are ex-
tremely popular. and deservedly so for
they are indeed beautiful. For calling the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

glebe fur wrap,
with chiffon
and ribbon
trimmings, with
and without
long ends. and
the royal err
mine cape, bor-
dered with
black or pur-
pie velvet, are
the favorites.
The royal err
mine is the fur
used almost
exclusively by
Oraan AfafOria
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
A Charitable View,


What is your idea of a cynic?"
"Well-a cynic is humorist who has
had the misfortune to be born with his
smile trifie on one side"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

Kissing is almost unknown in Japan. It
Is stated that mothers do not even kiss
their children in the land of the mikado.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

Johnny-''Does you pa ever take you to
circuses?"
Tommy-"No; he's near-sighted he
says it'd be lust like THROWN mopay
away."-Chicago News
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

and probably owes its popularity on this
side of the water to this fact Colarettes
this season made of every maginable
fur, and with the combination of two and
sometimes three different kinds. The cor
rect length is from ten to twelve inches.
They are being made very full and have
handsome Persian and Dresden silk Innings.
Capes and NuTs.
For opera or evening wear, capes or
beautiful brocaded silk, trimmed with white
fox and lined with light colored silks or
satins, are in vogue They are made TWEEN
ty to twenty-five inches long, which is
very sensible. as well as popular fad.
Muffs are made to match miady's fur coll
larette, cape or coat. The Vanderbilt mufr
is one of the seasons fancies, and is made
of rich dark mink and shaped long and
narrow as TO cover the hands well. and
yet not be bundlesome. Fur trimmings are
used on rich broadcloths and give an ele-
always be popular with the rich. for the
genuine sealskin comes high and there are
no indications that prices will ever be low
cred. Perhaps it is for this reason that
sealskin reigns supreme. Blue fox makes
a very effective neck scarf and is being
used a great deal The great popularity OF
furs be summed UP in this one sem
tence A woman OF thirty-five to forty
who wears furs to harmonic with the coll
or of her hair, skin and eyes VIII pass for
many years younger, and as more women
realize this fact more furs will be worm"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08
The Season When Fashions Usually
Run to Extremes.
WHAHNEW YORK WOMEN ARE WEARING
Nothing Particularly New to Be
Expected for Weeks.
RETURN OF THE BUSTI

Copyright 1898, by Bachelor SynGicate.)
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK January Z 1898
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

An Englishwoman of title, who has made
some stir in New York of late, wore at a
morning concert one day this week dress
of smoke-colored cloth. trimmed with five
ruffles set on half way between waist and
and sloped up behind. They were very
scant, for good dressmakers recognize that
fullness in heavy cloth is awkward. The
bodice was tucked perpendicularly and
turned back from the front in revers Of
heliotrope silk over a plastron of hello
trope chiffon, strapped across with lace.
The bodice bloused little and was held at
the waist by sash of heliotrope silk with
broad ends embroidered with jet and hang
Ing to the ground. The tight sleeves were
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

Where the student lamp or drop light re-
CURES little more toning down than that
afforded by the glass or porcelain shade
rufi1e of lace gathered full and tied about
the neck of the shade will be found both
simple ard effective.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-08

Vegetables that have been slightly touch
ed by frost may be frequently restored by
soaking for time In cold water.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-14
BUTTE AND TIE SHELTERS.

The atmosphere Of Butte is laden
with death. It is always bad, but for
several days the fumes from the
shelters have been like frozen vaDors
from the internal regions.
Several fatalities have occurred al
ready. and the people are panic
stricken. 1t is reported that the air is
SO full of poisoned smoke that it is
impossible to see across the street.
Frightened men are making threats,
and those who can are leaving the
city. 1t is evident that something will
have to be done at once; either the
smelters compelled to close down for a
few days, or some arrangement made
for the consumption of the gases.
Here is an opportunity for a man
with an inventive turn of mind to
make a fortune by relieving the suffer-
ings of the people there, and enabling
the smelters to utilize their surplus
gas.
There ought to be an ordinance
against nuisances in Butte, in the en-
forcement of which a breathing spell,
at least, might be obtained.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-14

vacious eyes, and untrimmed black
beard, vanished boots and white spats,
tight, black, frock coat and trousers,
brilliant tartan tie, black bowler hat
and ribbon of the Legion of Honor.
@ q @
And the ladies'! l say the ladies, but
for the life of you yoL could not tell
which were the ladies and which were
something else. In November our ladies
go racing in cloth skirts and covert
coats; the French lady goes in a lilac
silk dress, sweeping the ground both
before and behind when it is left alone;
and when it is held up, as it usually is,
with both hands, revealing a violet silk
embroidered petticoat and heaven
knows what in embroidered stockings.
AS for their faceS-Well, one can hardly
say; there are strata of rouge and pow
der and bistre, but it would be rash to
dogmatize about the face. Everybody
does it-literally everybody. l saw a
stout grandmother of so moving in an
aureole of floating powder, her upper
lip caught and pointed in the center,
and bistre under her eyes. saw a. girl
Of Is, in short skirts, and with haxen
hair down her back, upholstered in eX-
actly the same degree. l am even told
that they begin far earlier in life than
Is. I heard a story of an English lady
who gave a childrens party, and had
to send some little French girls UP to
wash their faces before they could come
in to tea. BY the time they are 20 these
girls must either makeup or look like
wax dolls that have been too near the
fire. But as long as their only ambi-
ton is to dress and look like the reign
ing courtesan, what does it matter?
They have even arrived just now at the
paradox that the courtesan is often
more quietly and becomingly clad than
the lady
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-14

painful growth of Anglo-Saxon wealth
and strength.
The difference between the races ex-
plains, to some extent, the different re-
suits achieved. And the location of
each in the old world, as well as in the
new, Influenced the outcome a great
deal. no doubt
Yet there was everything in the meth
DDS employed in colonization Both
mistreated the Indian, from a stand
point Of poetic justice. The Englishman
robbed the Indian of his land, while the
Spaniard was cruel as well as avar-
icious. 1t may be observed that the
Englishman was under less temptation,
since the Mohegan and the Pequod had
nothing much but his land to lose; he
took the land by trick or trade, and
only killed Indians in the defense of his
acquired rights; he always had in view
the establishment of home, the build
ing up Of community, the advance
ment Of his race. The Spaniard, on the
other hand, lived for the present. He
massacred to satisfy thirst he had
for human blood. He tortured, burned,
enslaved and ravished. He found more
pleasure in destroying than interest in
building up.
Every Indian war waged by the
founders of this nation was a struggle
for existence. 1t was a fight through
the first two centuries for 8, survival OF
the fittest But Spain exterminated
whole nations of the mildest, most
advanced and amiable people that ever
bore a resemblance to civilized man
with the exception of his vices. The
more unresisting the Spaniards found
them, the more they killed.
But it was long after the aborigines
had been subdued that the real struggle
for right began. Spain was finally
driven from the hemisphere by the
plodding. pushing. persevering Anglo
Saxon. The dramatics of history re-
Quired it. 1t was retributive justice.
And now let Spain go home with the
only handful of dust she has left of all
that Columbus gave her. Let her min
gle his ashes with the sackcloth Of her
despair