The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-31

with I crown of purple violets. and any
shade of lilac. docs as u foIl to the crown
of pansies. Fl the heartease is properly
shaded with some tawny specimens
among the purple ones with golden
hearts. you have the materials for a
charming flower hat.
Common sense has brought us a new
and excellent moreen for underskirt fab
r~ieation that is as thick and soft as satin
and is charmingly decorated in all the
best plaid combinations. For walking its
advantages are manifold. and. as it
comes double width, it can be cut in the
new pattern. That is with but two
seams, running down either hip. The
shape OF. this skirt demands that it be
cut crosswise of the material, and, be-
cause of its peculiar shape, it fits as snug
as a yoke about the hips. but fages conn
fortably and gracefully al eth foot. Such
a moreen skirt stands the hardest wear,
and is trimmed usually with hounees of
its own goods or plaid silk.
"
Black Brussels net is extremely fash
ionable to veil a guimpe, to trim a
made" sash. or to edge with shirred
double-folds your silk or satin skirt. 1t
IS also used on capes. Unless you have
the rose-and-white complexion of a Hebe
you would DO well to keep it away from
your face. The duh sarfaeesis extremely
hard and trying to the face. The
Brussels net is not perishable, like chif-
fon. and viii last as long as the fabric it
| is used to trim unless you manage to tear
it on your waist hooks. 1t is wonderful
the amount of damage a strong hook
/ - No -, . l., - -" Loo. onl ahff-
| fon frills, and rending them in ribbons.
Many of us regret the old peaceful ways
of the non-combatant button as fasten-
ing.
Let a man once fall into the habit of
| pottering, or tinkering at his house, his
body. his character. and always there is
danger that he will become a confirmed
cobbler," writes Robert J.. Burdette of
The Mending-basket. in. the April La
dies Home Journal" Where he should rip
off a rotting roof from ridge to cornice.
he will stick a shingle. a piece of slate a
scrap of tin, amid ever-increasfng leaks.
dry rot and general decay. He braces,
and holsters, and patches walls and fences
until his farm ooks as though it had a
coordination of Saint Vitus' dance and
| delirium tremns. He thinkers at his poor
! perishing frame with cure : alls and
lotions, pills and plasters. He braces up
his deeaying virtues with good resolutions
and poultices his vices with good inten-
tons. He fences his follies with certain
or rather, Observation-Disclosures And,
after all, he is the same old man. Decayed
and deeaying. weak here and warped there
! out of plumb, d%isjointed and covered with
| patches that do not renew him nor mend
him at all, but merely emphasize his
degeneration
The h~omespnn'' deserves the distinc-
ton of being selected for the Easter
brides going-away gown. 1t is con-
sidered newer than any other of the
cheviot, cloth or tweed tribe Grays and
brown do not give any idea of the multi
tude of eolers represented by these words.
There is a Wild range of color tones in
| the different admixtures and blending OF
threads. A going-away gown would have
the skirt plain. but lined with pink or
French blue taffeta. Watermelon is
the pink that looks especially smart with
gray. The skirt has an inside ~flounee,
which helps distend the cloth hem and
kepe it from falling in. The jacket is cut
to fit, and preferably, braided with fine
fiat black silk braid. Scroll patterns are
| preferred in waist braiding.
You nave two silk shirt waists TO wear
with this one of the pretty color chosen
for lining the jacket and skirt; the other
a much darker silk. The good model has
a "cravat piece with twisted ends, hat
fall from throat to waist. This comes off
and on at the wearer's caprice. Leave
it on, and then unlock the jacket, so as
to allow the "cravat 'front.' to puff out.
The "shepherdess'' is a pretty model for
| a straw hat. The fine de steele Chloe
wear a shepherdess of Manila, Yeddo or
/ Tuscan straw, witt loops of ribbon and a
garden of wild flowers nodding on top.
Some of the flowers have very long stems,
so that the flower heads may tumble
about when the wearer moves. The crown
Of the shepherdess gets smaller TOWARD
the top. Black velvet ribbon looks charm
ing on a fancy-braid hat. silk fibre"
is the material from which pretty dress
hats and bonnets are braided. 1t is quite
true that a toque made to order, that is,
braided to suit the shape of ones head,
will last much longer than one bought
ready-made. The soft braids are apt to
| get out Of shape unless they fit the head.
The position is the favorite finish for a
1ady's waist. A revers and waistcoat are
not Incompatible with. a position back,
| and it is seen in various materials. But
it shines most where it really belongs, in
the taiIor-made cloth jacket. The affair
is rounded over the hips and hangs
straight in the back, with two short
tails. They are often ornamented with
a row Of tailor buttons. A position
jacket of ruby cloth looks well over any
black skirt. The position opens over a
long. narrow waistcoat, usually of white
cloth, and this again is opened at the
throat to show a chemisette.
Do you know the names Of the new
"harmonies" of color in poplins? If not
refresh your memory by trying to iden-
tify these. ~"Framboise'' is raspberry in
thin French disguise: "Parmes our old
friend violet; Castor is a charming
wood color; view Bieu" simply old blue,
and IODINE Quartz Sultan Vol
ga" "Artichaud' fartichoke) and 'sPias-
tres trade names applied to pretty tones
of color.
Before entering the dining-rooms a maid
passed around among the guests with a
tray full of loose fiowers-all sorts OF