The record-union., 1898-03-20
ALhSSIO'S ATTRACTIONS.
QUAINT LIFE IN AN ITALIAN
FISHING VILLAGE.
IT'S Beautiful escrip-
tion of Christmas
Fair

Fair.
Between Genoa and san Reno lies the
quaint old town of Alassio. one of the
few places on the Riviera where Italian
customs may still be seen in their old
time simplicity, where people live as
their fathers and grandfathers lived be-
fore them, and the restless stir ana
change Of the nineteenth century has
practically passed them BY. It is true
that the long railway trains come to
halt at the little station two or three
times a day, but only few passengers
aight, and they soon rumble on, bsa la3
their hundreds of travellers to the We'll
known resorts of San Reno, Nice and
Mentone
The somewhat gloomy fishing town,
with its irregular buildings, which thes@
trains leave behind, it situated between
the hills and the sea, beautiful olive
groves covering the slopes which rise
gently behind the houses, While pleas
ant walks and drives lead from the
musty odors Of the village to the clear,
bracing air OF the mountainous country.
The little village has nearly five thou
sand inhabitants, and consists of one
long main street. very dark and narrow,
q square or piazZo in front OF the great
parish church, and q few struggling
houses and public buildings at either end
OF the town. There are no shops with
wares collected to tempt the unWary
foreigner. but only such as the people
need, and it is easy to see that their
wants are few and simple. The owners
sit in their doorways, the women with
dark-eyed babies in their arms, and
scream across the way to each other,
While small children swarm throughout
the street.
The town is built directly on the edge
Of the sandy >shore, and at intervals
along the main street are narrow arch
ways between the houses, through whi"n
lovely bits of the blue water can be
seen.
A few English colonists have built
comfortable villas among the olive
groves, and the hotels of Alassio are
usually full Of 'forestieri" as the ma
tives style all foreigners soourning in
their country. But as yet thee 'fores
teri" are in the minority, and the at
mosphere is essentially Italian. One of
the finest gardens about the town, how
ever, is owned by Scotch resident, and
in it the nightingales build their nests
and fill the air with music. The haw
thorne or May" ab0unds, and keeps it's
green freshness during the short Win
ter, until it blooms in early spring. On
the broad road, which follows the sea,
are many steep banks, where the wild
thyme grows in great abundance, where
scarlet Qoppies peep out from crevices
in walls and rocks, and the pink daisies
spring up in dainty clusters"
Living IN Alassio is primitive and
cheap, but the two or three hotels are
fairly comfortable, and the prices of
rooms and board very moderate. For
a trifle more than a dollar day, good
rooms and service may be had and the
fare, although essentially Italian, is
quite endurable. If the bread is some
times little too dark TO be inviting and
the flavor Of anise-seed too strong in
the vegetables, the ''Patienza, patienza,
Signorina, of the sweet voiced land
lady, reduces the most particular to
submission. Shopping in Alassio is a
difficult matter, IS the people speak
only Italian, and one of its worst dia
lects at that There is but little sold,
however, that the average traveller de-
sires. A little fruit, meal. and bread
are the staples, while eggs are heaped
up in a sort of fish-net bag, which, in
all weathers, is hung outside the shop
door.
Proba bly, it is because there is so lit
tie need of money in Alassio that no
bank is to be found there and the cur
passed from hand to hand, looks as if
it had been buried in dirt for ages
Pieces of the old Papal money, which
is now out of use elsewhere in Italy,
are still in circulation here. There is
a small postoffice on one side of the
piazza. with a polite attendant, who is
always much interested in letters and
packages sent to the far-aW ''Stati
Until"
On the water side of the town there
is a broad, sandy beach, which lines the
little bay upon which Alassio is stu
ated. The wide curve OF the Shore
protected at each end by a high pro-
montory, makes a safe harbor for the
fishing fleet of the village. AS the boats
come in and are beached for the night,
all the women and children, with their
short skirts and gay handkerchiefs,
come down to see what the days haul
has feen. They chatter, scream and
gesticulate for an hour or so, while
the men, bare-footed and in shirts of
faded pink and blue draw up the boats
by means of a rude Windlass, until
they are out of reach of the gentle
Mediterranean tide Then down into
the bottom of the boats they all GO, to
bring out the fish and throw them into
baskets. Some of the fish are very
curiOns and pretty, and prove excel
lent eating when properly cooked. The
red rnullet abounds in Mediterranean
waters and there are numerous small
fish like goldfish, only of deeper hue.
Sardnes are also caught off the shore
of Alassio, and are packed and sent
away IN quantities from the town. A
us during oGr stay which was full of
bones ard of vivid green color. De-
spite it's poisonous aspect, it was very
palatable and perfectly harmless. FISH
ing is the principal occupation of the
men Of the town. The reen olive-0ll
soap is manufactured here and is so
pure that it Will float upon the top OF
the water when in use. The people are
very roor. and their food consists prin-
eipally OF polenta Co preparation of
meaD, tomatoes cooked in q purely
Italian fashion. and now and then