The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-04

tons, which were sewed tightly upon
the straps, making an army decoration
method is used. The button is sewed
very tightly into the cloth, so that it
cannot wag. The loose, rolling button
Is out of place as q trimming, and II the
button is so unfortunate as to have
large eye, a hole should be cut in the
cloth and the buttons should be set into
the cloth like buttons upon a shoe
Buttons that are to be really buttoned
are to be treated differently. Here
there must be room left for the cloth,
and the best tailors have small piece
OF metal which they place between the
button and the cloth. When the button
Is sewed on they remove the metal, and
the hStton stands high upon little
pedestal of its own. Many housewives sew
pin afterward, leaving little space for
the cloth. Home made coats often owe
their bad fit to the fact that the buttons
are sewed on too tight.
The button this autumn has become
largely a decoration. You would really be
aStonished to know how few of the ele-
CANT new coats are fastened with the
buttons which so profusely decorate them
in front. Often the button will deceive
the closest observer into thinking that it
is there for business, when actually 1t is
doing duty as an ornament. The strap
ped coats are never buttoned. The coat
is hooked with very large hooks that will
positively not come undone. The straps
are then brought over the front of the
each end of each strap is large hand
some button which rests as proudly in
place as though 1t were there for work.
Buttonholes are carefully worked in the
straps and in many cases buttonholes are
actually cut out on each side of the but
ton so as to be positively deceptive.
All kinds of little fastenings are used
in the same way. Buttons with knot
of silk ribbon and a hook underneath fas-
tened into another knot of ribbon look as
though the ribbon were drawn through
the buckle in the coat. AS a matter of
fact nothing is unbuttoned, nothing is un-
clasped. A little invisible hook under
meath does all the work.
The woman who has anything at all
in the house in the shape of last sea-
sons garment can easily make coat or
wrap for herself. If she desires
wrap let her take her old black cloth
circular of last year and cut Il down.
She must use the scissors ruthlessly until
she has only small circular of the black
cloth. She must now buy fourteen or fif-
teen yards of narrow braid of any color.
The new wood green is very beautiful
Get silk to match the braid or. better
machine, and the work of making the
cape is well begun.
1t is not absolutely necessary to mark
pattern upon the coat, although 1t is
with an eye for distance can braid a cape
in loops which look as large around as
an ordinary sized tea cup. Carry the
braid up and down in big loops without
ever ending or fastening 1t. At the ends
carry il up far enough to begin another
set of loops and in this way going back
ard forth until the entire cape is covered
with the braid Gold or silver cord or a
small tinsel thread can be run along the
edge of the braid afterward.
The lining of a cape is very important,
and for these the gayest silks can be
selected. HELEN WARD.