The record-union., 1898-08-14

sirable manner The circular cape we
all remember, cut on the same lines,
was guilty of just such untoward con-
duct looking thereby decidedly ungrace-
full and giving a dropping appearance
to its wearer that was depressing even
to the beholder. Countless times this
season among the votaries of the ruling
queen, and in the midst of the best
that la mode has fashioned, have I
beheld the circular skirts of beautiful
transparent materials that were fash
ionably made over separate under
dresses Of silk, showing at least two
inches of the silk skirt just at the
back, with quite as much (if not more)
excess of the upper transparent skirt
trailing on each side below the silk
one. No matter what the smart
modiste may urge, or how we'll she
may argue, L am now convinced that
this dropping defect is ineradicable.
The textile must necessarily sag at
the part where it is cut entirely ION
the cross" That the entire skirt can
be cut on the bias is quite impossible.
Scores of women have this summer
yielded rather unwillingly to the urgent
advice of fashionable modistes' to have
their skirts cut in circular form, and
with their decision.
The wear -defying vicunas will appear
in handsome colorings and new guses
for the making of handsome tailor
gowns. Those for general uses show
silky hair-line stripes and infinitesimal
checks on a surface of an opposite
shade A pleasing relief from the color
conglomerations among the fashionable
dress fabrics are the new plain colored
satin-f finished cashmeres and drap-
d'ete weaves, which every refined wo-
man delights in wearing.
White crepe, white mousseline de
sole, and white taffeta silk, are beauti-
fully combined in elegant fete and
evening toilettes for the summer The
waists are trimmed with real laces,
/ either Venetian. Honiton, Valenciennes,
| or Guipure, shaped into deep yokes,
| collarettes, with extended pieces form
| ing points or bretelles over the sleeve
! puffs: also girdleS, jacket-fronts, ana
/ long. diagonal pieces that cross the waist
! in front The creamy sOftnesS and deli
\ cacy Of these laCes blend charmingly
with all the beautiful tints of the rib
/ bons so excessively used this season as
! sashes, loops, chouX, shoulder knots,
| folded collar bands, and belts, rosettes,
/ skirt ruches, borders, gathered frllls,
and puffs. The chief feature of the
new collarettes and fichus is the eX-
/ cess of ribbon, lace, and chiffon law
ished upon them. With the exception
Of the trim little cOllets accompanying
/ tailor made travelling costumes, all the
models are befrilled and beruched from
neck to furthest edge.
A handsome model for an autumn
/ tailor gown is made of pale heliotrcpe
cloth in a bourette weave, figured with
tufts of white camels- hair. The Jacket
of heliotrope cloth turns back with
revers of olive green velvet, showing a
blouse of white cloth braided in green
and gold, with narrow belt to match
/ The skirt is open up each side to the
waist. revealing panels of white cloth
with cloth straps crossing them piped
with velvet and almost covered with
/ the green and gold braidwork.
Among the robes de luxe for autumn
wear will be those of very rich but
| exceedingly flexible and lustrous water
\ ed silk in black. made in prlncesse
form with elaborate trimmings on the
| front from shoulder to skirt hem. The
| garnitures vary for those of different
| ages. size and hight Very elegant
! let pieces in quaint, beautiful designs
combined on the most expensive gowns
with black guipure lace, decorate some
of the dresses that are cut low in the
neck, the space being filled in with a
! guinpe of jetted net over white or
/ colored satin or of cream silk laid IN
/ fine tucks Even for elderly women
some of these princesse gowns have a
little rounded yoke of lace with neck
! band Of mauve, plum -colored. dahiia
or black velvet almost covered by the
lace pleatings. which fall over the coll
/ lar.
| One Of the very foolish whims OF
/ fashion followed mostly by young girls
! in society-who do not yet fully value
plexions-is the discarding of any sort
| Of parasol or sunshade in their day
| time drives, beach walks. mountain
| climbing. etc 1T is the thing to do,
ergo. no parasol and entreaties on the
| part of watchful mothers and chap
/ erones are worse than useless. Another
| fiat of fashion has gone forth-veils are
| to be abolished Already trafashion-
able women have discarded them, but
| the majority will temporiZe by wearing
| the veil much shorter or otherwise will
have to defy the autocrat altogether.
This is the most crucial test OF fidelity