The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1898-09-18

which are impossible with dust in the dry
and with mud I'M the wet season. Here and
there the roads are new and models. of ex-
cellonce: then again they are old, unre-
paired ard series of pitfalls for man and
beast Some day The land will be paradise
for the wheelman and the trotting horse.
AT present it Is an incentive to wrath, dis
gust and dismay on the part Of the average
Traveller. This is why ;ravel on the island
is conducted chiefly on the back OF some
domestic quadruped. The horse and the
donkey, the mule and the OK share the',hon-
ors of transporting their human owners.
or The four. the favorite s;eed is the mule.
There are mules and mules l have seen
one on Broadway, New York. bid success
full defiance to TWO policemen, a greater
feat than amy lion could accomplish; bu:
the mules Of Puerto Rico are as dociie, hum
bic and long-suffering as the ancestral dom
key. I have tried many Of these long-eared
creatures and can testify 20 their virtues.
They are superior TO the horse In Puerto
Rico on account Of their being surer footed
en- steep hillsides and Of their pose esstng a
rema rka bic ms tirct which enables them to
determine whe her marshy soil is safe or
dangerous. When you come to meadow
which looks subs:an tia! and secure, your
mule. is apt to halt, paw the soil vigorous
ly for a minn,e, ard then sniff and look a.;
The place abraded by the qhoof. When sat-
!sned chat the ground " Ill bear his weight,
he goes along without further hesitation;
bu; If he turns around and refuses the path,
do no; try 10 get him TO retrace his steps.
In all probability there is a quagmire or a
quicksand within a few yards, in which
both beast and rider may be engulfed.
l noticed in my journeys through the
island that women ride a great deal in
Puerto Rico. the same as in Mexico and
much more than In the United States. The
better classes use the English sides addle,
though few prefer the more picturesque
and safer. but less graceful, Spanish sad
die. In the country districts the piTton is
occasionally employed, while among the
lower classes many women ride astrIde
without exciting comment When the ma
tIvesl are both prey and good riders, they
display considerable coquetry in the saddle
! noticed ore rider near Juar,a Dihz, who
took my mind back to the old days of chiv-
airy. She was a lovely girl of about Is or
l6, with a face hike a Madonna and a fig
ure like an artists model. One little foot
crept out beneath her silk riding skirt, and,
Ito my surprise. was devoid Of siery. The
pinkish gold Of exquisite tint Ut was shod
with a slipper Of satin or silk, embroidered
In color. with an arched ins,ep which made
the foot AL the more charming by its set
ting.
The time to see the women at their best
is on Sunday morning when they ride from
their homes to mass in the nearest church
or cathedral. On one Sunday morning,
on my way to this town met a crowd of
worshipers on their way to mass. Nearly
all the women were on muleback and sat or
lolled as II they were In an easy chair in
their own home. A few. probably Weather
than the others, or else delicate In health,
were accompanied by little Oakley boy
on a working mule who held over them
parasol or an umbrella. These umbrellas
are as gorgeous as those of the Mandarins
Of China. They are family affairs. large
enough to cover the mother and all her lit
tie BROOD They are embroidered covered
with lace and fringed around the edge with
red and yellow fringe' foot deep. This
fringe Is useful as well as ornamental
1t increases the shade and by its move
ment in the wind frightens away the flies
and other insects with which the paths
abound. Each rider carries her fan,
simple affair made Of beautiful native wood
decorated with gold and covered with
paper gorgeomsly printed or painted in prls-
matte colors.
On Sunday each woman wears huge
rosary, sometimes SO large as to be UNI
comfortable. saw several that were 50
unwieldy that they went over the shoulders
and formed huge line, larger indeed than