The record-union., 1898-05-08

A noticeable feature of the new shoul-
der capes and fichu-like wraps is their
extreme shortness and excessive full
ness, carried so far in some instances as
to make them look most ridiculous artl-
cleS of dress, a number of trench
styles having row after row of i'm
menSe pleated rucheS set upon the little
circular foundation. These models more
than ever give the Wearer thereof q
bison-Hke appearance, from the TACT
that from the broad. distended, betrllled
cape down, she is made to look, by faSh-
ions latest Whim, as svelte and WlfloWy
as possible. Laces of every rich descrlp-
1ion, accordion-p -pleated lisse muslin and
chiffon, grenadine, China silk, etamine,
faille and taffeta, with elegant jet orna-
ments and ribbons for garniture, com
pose the majority of black capes. The
white lace and lisse models for very
special wear are garnished with guipure
sprays and incrustatiOns en- applique
These numerous capes are rivalled by
pretty little summer-like garments
which have a short jacket effect, front
and back Under the arms it reaches
nearly to the waist, but slopes upwards
to form long V This opening unites
wing sleeves, which do not reach the ell
bows, are composed of wide founces of
pleated lisse, with rich lace epaulettes
on the shoulders.
Vienna cashmere in exquisite tones
and semi-tones, as fine and soft of sur
face as India silk, is made into ideal
gowns for demi-dress wear. Some of
the models are combined with faiIle or
taffeta the shade of the cashmere, others
are decorated with silk gimp, ribbon,
milliners' folds, ruches, or gathered or
pleated frills, and most of the newest
gowns of this material have knee-deep
skirt trimmings. For a figure not too
tall, a skirt of fine sheer cashmere ac-
Gordon pIeated its entire length in
black. gray. or cream white is a very
pretty and graceful one to select to wear
with fancy waists of every kind and
color.
Ruchings, both wide and narrow
made, to decorate skirts bodces and
sleeves, and formed of what was for
merly called footing, are sold ready
made either in black, white, or colors
plain or edged with narrow lace. They
make a very fashionable and exceed
parent gowns.
feature of the importations in sum-
mer dress goods is the very fine silk
and wool materials, etamines, canvas
goods, India zephyrs, Fedora cloths
etc, some of these beautiful textiles in
their natural tints of ecru or gray-the
wool undyed and undressed just as it
comes from the loom, and its silk warp
of the finest description. These goods
are roughly woven, and they are very
light weight, but strong enough for
good service, and unique enough in eff
feet to find favor with lovers of novelty.
Fine soft cashmere veilings and de-
1aines are used for inexpensive tea
gowns, and some of these in pale pretty
shades of rose, blue corn yellow, green
gray or fawn color are made up with
white. cream or chamOis- -coored
guimpeS and fronts Rose pink, violet
or blue cashmere or camers hair tea
gowns are trimmed with narrow black
velvet ribbon, with fan-pleated ruffles
of figured net let into the skirt in a
very odd and unfamiliar fashion. These
have guimpes or blouse-fronts of the
net to match. Palmer styles have skirt
frills of the dress fabric, but a rich
effect is impaired by handsome
guimpe of brocade. tucked silk or dot
ted or striped satin, and this at a very
little extra outlay.
Robe patterns of lace of the most
beautiful designs of point d'esprit, In
dia null, French muslin elabOrately
embroidered, tucked and frilled. are
among the most novel and beautiful
IL; -;,~T~
in many instances are ready to put on,
even to the addition of the narrow satin
skirt band. The waists are partly
shaped and wholly trimmed. and the
sleeves are ready to be put together
and adjusted to the arms.
Very stylish and elegant are the i'm
ported gowns made in princesse fash
ion. with narrow vest and guimpe tops
of white satin laid in finest lingerie
+ucks, with tiny line of gold braid be-
tween the tucks. Deep turn-down re-
vers finish the edge of the low-cut
waist portion of the princesse models,
and these are edged with lines of mar
row ribbon matching that which bor-
ders the flounces on the demi-trained
skirt.
Plain and fancy mohalrS grace, All uh-
commonly large and attractive exhibit
of checked and fancy mixed suitings,
self-colored fabrics in camels hair,
English serge, Henrietta cloth. drap
d'Alma. French diagOnals, and mohair
armures, veilings, white and ecru lin
ems. and batistes in striped, hoWered'
and dotted patterns, and grenadines in
wool. as we'll as silk and wool WeaVes,
are among the most popular dress
goods set forth this week by all the
leading importers of the city.
Beautiful beyond description are
some of the gowns of black or white
silk yelling called India yelling, made
mn over taffeta silk in white, and often
over black moire, if the material is
black. The black dresses are trimmed
with flounces of the goods bordered
with three rows Of narrow black saun