The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-01-13
IDEAS for IUomen

Sleeves of a different, material from the
bodice have proved so successful that
the idea has been adopted by furriers.
Blouses of caracul, broadtail or INNER
have green or brown velvet sleeves.
These new blouses have tight-itting
backs. as there is already beginning a
reaction against the straight line at the
sides of the waist, which is the result
of the blousing OF the back. TIL fronts
continue full. however.
The favor extended to transparent ma
terials shows no signs of abatement. The
renewed style of pufings, ruffles and
founces will keep these gauzy fabrics
to the front until a decided change in
fashion occurs.
Pale blue chiffon over deeper blue taft
feta has a belt and shoulder knots of
darker blue velvet ribbon. The waist is
in surpliee style, with a long spray of
mink flowers from the left shoulder. fall
ing over the skirt.
In pink and yellow there are costumes
trimmed with appliques of black Cham
lilly lace on each of the ruffles covering
the skirt. Others merely edge a deep
Spanish founce and cover the pointed
front breadth above.
The blouse has the front with a%ppliques
and a thick ruche of the color around
the low neck; belt of black mousseline
or velvet. with long ends. Lace boleros
are worn with high-necked gowns of
crepe. having glove sleeves,
Smart house gowns of royal blue crepe
over taffeta are trimmed with white
lace applique; white satin collar and
belt. and the blouse dotted with iridescent
spangles.
Yelling tulles are preferred in black
or white. Black yelling tulle, with spots
woven in the net itself and chenille
spotted tulle are equally favored. and
some novelties have appeared with spots
of different sizes. The most approved
style of meshes for tulle wells are ex-
tremely fine. the object being to render
them as invisible as possible. so that the
spots may stand out in greater relief.
Among the becoming articles shown
is a double veil. consisting of Mechlin
tulle, generally white. of an extremely
fine description, covered with almost in
visible black meshes, spotted with che
nile.
Dinner and ball ~toilettes are of these
materials, also many of the separate
waists to be worn with satin skirts. Blue,
mauve, pink. yellow and white are the
favorite colors. The white and black are
made over black and white taffeta and
satin. 1t must not be forgotten that these
satin skirts must have taffeta Innings.
IN black lace and net there are charm
ing gowns trimmed with appliques of
black or white lace. or both, and jet
spangles. If cut with a low neck there is
a yoke of black or white lace for all oc-
casions. except full dress functions. and
a collar. belt and perhaps revers around
the low neck of bright pink. red or green
velvet.
If figured lace is used the designs
around the hips and on the waist are
outlined with jet. Steel and silver SPAN
giles are particularly elegant when min
g,ed with jet on black.
Brussels net gowns are not expensive
if one has a half-worn silk dress to use
for a lining. Red net gowns with a black
sash are quite striking. but more stylish
is a white taffeta lining under a white
net, dotted with red chenille and trim
red with red velvet ribbon.
Applique vines and leaves Of lace are
used to head ruffles on these dresses,
and the lower edge frequently has a Sec
ond narrow vine or a row of tiny edgings.
Even chiffon and mousseline sashes are
now covered with applique half way up
the long ends.
Crepe and chiffon are fashioned in a
similar manner. In silvery gray over
gray the only trimming is a blouse front
of white dotted chiffon with steel and
gray pearls and cerise velvet collar, and
belt with steel buckles. This in crepe
answers for an informal at home toilette.
*a*
The new heroine is commonly more or
less realistic-more rather than less-and
generally interesting in proportion to her
realism. There is now some prospect,
from reading about her in current fiction,
of learning something of her sex, in which
man has a perennial concern. The novelist
of this time tries less to furnish a stimu-
lating story than to furnish fresh person.
ages, at least those having unusual ex-
p~eriences and singular temperaments.
Analysis of character is often his special
aim, which is, in many instances, carried
too far. Any one may weary of analysis,
s~ub-analysis, sub--sub-analysis, and prefer
even an old fashioned tale, however ex-
travagant and romantic. Although we are
all chemical compounds, subtly mixed, we
do not care to have a denouement de-
ferred and deferred while a character is
taken deliberately to pieces and put to-
gether again, says 'Harper's Bazaar"
The extraordinary change in novels and
their heroines is due, in a great measure,
I to the change in women themselves.
These nave ceased to be romantic, senti-
mental, artificial beings they were even
thirty years ago, and their reflex in fiction
has been discontinued. We will not read
of the languishing empty, mawkish, flavor
less SYPHILIS, Angelinas and Arabellas that
our mothers and grandmothers hung over
and wept over. The heroine of the period
is not satisfied to look pretty and obey the
fixed rules of etiquette; nor is the actual
woman so satisfied. either. The actual
woman wants to be somebody. to do some
thing. to take some part in life; and she
is and does. even if surrounded by lux
ury and bulwarked by influential friends.
1t is noticeable how active she is, how
useful she tries to make herself. whatever
the temptations of wealth and society to
render her otherwise.
Reading novels of the old sort was
weakening, If not demoralizing. 1t con-
tributcd to Stiffness and namby-pamby-
ism at least. Not SO with the later novels
thosc of the present, specially. The bet
= ter kind are intellectual, encouraging,
stimulating in a good sense. and teach
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