The times., 1898-12-11

1t is a matter of recent history that when
Rear Admiral Schley came this way in
search OF the Spanish fleet he thought he
deserted the masts of Cervera's vessels
secreted among these Islands. and he was
maneuyering to get his own ships In un-
observed. when the insurgents brought
him word that the game had taken refuge
elsewhere.
The Isla de Pinos.
did not go ashore at Cienfuegos on
this trip, having visited the place twice
before, and intending to come down later
by rail from Havana. Then out to sea
we went again. away down below 1sla de
Pinos-the only island of consequence
among the hundreds that encompass the
Queen of the Antilles. 1t is nearly square
In form-perhaps sixty miles long by
fifty broad. and of exceedingly pictur-
esque appearance. Two dark hill-ranges
cross it from east TO west, with wide,
green valleys between; great swamp.
or jungle, of densest vegetation divides
1t in twain. and on all sides rivers seek
the sea. some of them navigable for sew
eral miles. The island is famous for its
pine forest and beautiful marbles. Its
SalubriOus climate and wonderful thermal
springs. II is already a favorite santa
rum, and Cubans believe that short
for consumption. Lying only ninety miles
due south from Havana, going by rail
across the narrowest portion of the island
to the little port of Batabano, II is
bound to be developed in the near future
under American rule.
This is the island that Columbus dis
! covered on a June day OF 1894 and chris
tened La Evangelista. Three centuries
later it rejoiced under the name of "Riena
Av,,1
because of the beautiful pine groves
which fill the air with pungent odors.
We are accustomed to think of pine trees
as growing only In cold countries and
upon mountain tops-but here they -four
ish to perfection among the palms and
cacti. 1t Is a singular fact that the pine
family, though peculiarly northern pro-
duct, has several species which grow best
in torrid lowlands.
To the north and east of Isla de Pinos
the sea is dotted with the archipelago es
of Los Canarios and Baneo de los Jar
dines-innumerable tiny islands, each an
emerald gem in the ring of the wave"
Travelling among them is unalloyed de-
light. The boat winds in and out
the labyrinthine channels, over waters
blue and luminous as the tropic skies
and so beautifully translucent that star
fish lying on the silvery bottom or sea-
flowers growing leagues below look as
though seen through glass. The air is
indescribably balmy, the same In Summer
as in Winter. and the eyes are con inu-
ally feasted upon the beauty OF verdure-
clad shores and distant mountains We led
in clouds-the Guanahaga, or Golden
Range" of the aborgines
Our course from the Isle OF Pines was
the same as Cortez took-"toward that
part of the horizon where the sun set
and our next stopping place was tie
same as his. on the coast of Yucatan
Progreso. the Mexican port is ceriaialy
far from carrying out the idea its name
implies, having made no progress worth
mentioning in almost 100 years OF Span
ish occupancy.
A Glare of SnOw-White.
Why, oh, why, in all these treeless ports,
where Sol pours down his fiercest rays
i from year to year, do the natives persist
in painting everything snow white, at the
risk of blindness to man and beast? The
intense glare, reflected from snowy walls,
silvery beaches and shinmering sea, is
perpetual torture. intensified by hot winds.
like a simeon. which blow up clouds of
dust but bring no GOODNESS. Groups of
dark-faced men lounge idly in the door
ways, and women in garments of spotless
white are squat:ed along the curb stones
with bowls OF cooked meat for sale, or
/ tamales made red hot with ahi and odor-
GUS of grease and garlic. There is hotel
so-called. stone structure thatched with
| straw. whose ground floor is used for {;
stable. and the entire space above is one
| long, unpartitioned dormitory. This prim-
tive sleeping apartment contains no arti-
| Gle of furniture. not even a bedstead. The
| transient guest is expected to bring his
own hammock, sling ii upon the waiting
hooks and sleep-if he can-amid abound-
| ing vermIn and the snnres and imnreca-