The record-union., 1898-06-26

mrable. whether worn by the matron.
whose figure is the reverse of slender,
or by her daughter, who is distinctly
tall and svelte. On some of the very
expensive Marie-Antoinette hchus are
long stole fronts Of lace-woven scarfs.
in white or black, like the long Spanish
scarfs in black that were many years
ago so fashionable Unattached to any
cape or fichu, these graceful acces-
sories are seen upon some Of the new
est imported evening toilets of dia-
phanous naterial-brocade or plain or
figured silk. The scarf is cut exactly
in equal lengths; the top of each length
is shirred into the shoulder-seam OF
the bodice, then carried lightly to the
waist and shirred again, or caught with
jewel buckles, the handsome lace
ends woven in regular scarf form
falling nearly to the skirt-hem on each
side. These are very becoming to wo-
men of every figure.
Many of the skirts of dresses worn
last summer can be given the required
additional length of the present sea-
son by removing the skirt binding and
adding the necessary number of inches
to the foot of the skirt all around, by
piecing it down with skirt lining, then
covering this with the dress goods.
Machine-stitch this to make it firm;
rebind, then cover the whcle with
number of overlapping frills of goods,
matching or contrasting with the skirt
fabric, as is preferred. Care must be
taken in piecing to use curving, not
straight strips of the goods, or the
hox for
fullness than the skirt edge it is Joined
to.
Nets, grenadines, etamines and ba-
reyes are all made up this season in
most enticing forms, but the very new
est gowns are of silk-warp nuns veil
ing. They are as sheer as India silk
and much more durable, and these new
weaves show most beautiful day and
evening colors. The ivory, mauve,
primrose, parma violet and dove and
opal-gray veilings trimmed with
fiounces edged with narrow satin rib
bon, with bodices decorated with cream
Venetian lace, or pleatings of chiffon,
make ideal summer toilets, with hats
and parasols en- suite.
The fancy silk grenadines are lovely
this year, as indeed are all the new
grenadines, and never was there such a
bewildering variety. The silk net gowns
from famous French atelierS all show
different treatment of this elegant dt-
aphanOus textile. At one noted house
it is black in princesse form, over a
slip of cherry-red moire. At another
it forms a lovely black and white me-
lange-the foundation ivory satin, with
bodice decorations of white crepe lisse
almost hidden by black guipure lace
sprays and insertion. From Maison
Weille comes a rare gown of black net,
incrusted all over the bodice and skirt
with applied designs of bow knots. En-
pire garlands, arabesques and scrolls
of cut-jet bevels, sequins and large jet
spangles are used. The collar and Cir
die are of brilliant orange velvet, and
the gown is made up over nasturtium
satin.
Guimpc and yoke effects increase
daily, and each new dressy summer
gown or costume that appears discloses
something novel, dainty and charming
in these graceful accessories of the bod
ice. These familiar guimpes and yokes
of brocade, velvet and tucked silk are
reinforced by those of rich guipure or
Venetian net or lace, laid over lustrous
satin by those of embroidered linen
lawn, shirred batiste, gaffered India
null crossed with finest insertion bands
in lattice or diamond patterns, or by
these same pretty effects on white Chi
ma silk merely laid in fine lingerie tucks
with dainty lines of white silk brier
stitching between.
The latest French toilets and cos
tunes show the belts of ribbon, velvet
satin more or other fabric, each a
mere line of the goods about the waist:
quite opposite in effect from the crush
girdles and very deep centuries Ct a