The times., 1898-11-27

use, but to give even a slight description
of the varieties of handles offered for um-
brellas would verify be TO mention full
800 sorts of materials and shapes.
A hat with a fur brim may sound
weighty, but 1t IS pretty for all that, es-
pecially if the fur is chinchilla and the
crown is n fat Holbein affair pressed
back on one side by huge rosette OF
white feathers. That at least is one type
of the headgear that has n following just
now. A great display is made up out of
a half yard of bias velvet and absolutely
nothing more. The velvet is usually of
the most daring color, or shaded like a
rainbow, and has two tall rabbit ear
points springing up in front.
The worthy guinea hen makes the most
hay in the autumn sunshine. for we now
have hats, the crowns or brims OF which
are made of the pretty speckled feathers.
Brims are sometimes appropriately faced
with this barn-yard plumage and there is
by the way, deal of emphasis laid on
the faclngs of hat The milliners have
persuaded many customers to have mar
row line of scarlet spangles run in under
the brim and just in front next to the
hair. By this device, the hat makers say,
warm red light is reflected on the
cheeks just under the eyes. thereby
greatly adding to the brilliancy of the
latter Blonde women face their hats
with turquoise blue chenille lace and
sallow women take a dash of pale pink
under the brim, and all these devices are
said TO be actual helps 10 beauty.
Any woman, say the wiseacres, looks
the better for wearing white or cream
white tulle next her face, and acting on
this suggestion. every woman who
studies her appearance wears a tulle
stock and big tulle bow under her
chin. Some of them button up their
black, brown or dark green cloth walk
ing coats to not only tulle collar, but
small tulle dicky. that spreads down
below the bow. They get by this means
the same crisp charm of linen, with none
of its harshness. for in cold weather
linen is a cruel trial to the tender flesh
Of feminine throats. Tulle bows and
stocks are not, after all, so fragile as
they sound, and not a woman that
wears them but adds something to her
looks-by their aid. The newest rib
bon collar is without a bow, but has a
Jeweled clasp instead. 1t winds twice
about the neck. and fastens in front.
the two parts of the clasp being sewed
TO the ends of the ribbon. The clasps
are either of real jewels and precious
stones. or clever and almost as service
able limitations.
What some of the new oversklrts look
pictures this week. The gowns that
are coupled together show first a cos
tune of rich, red Nassau cloth, having a
polonaise of velvet in deeper tone,
and the pointed front of the polonaise
overlaid with gray Russian lace. The
sleeves are also treated with lace while
a full jabot falls over the bust. The
waist has tucked green silk sleeves and
yoke, and a. tiny pocket of lace falling
over the lower figured half Of the body
The braided gown is elaborated In
gray Ottoman cloth, striped in mar
row and widely-set figured band. and
the second picture shows a theater
dress of moired satin upon a rosy lilac
faced cloth skirt. The satin drapery is
edged and figured with jet, and the
same scheme of decoration is repeated
on the waist.
A group of ball gown bodices is given
in the second series of pictures. Each
of these elaborates in detail the fact set
forth above, that few women would any
longer cut their gowns according to
court regulations; that is, open and un-
relieved from shoulder to shoulder
Lace treatments are popular and pretty
and by any one of these sketches an
old waist would not only be renovated,
but given a decided air of novelty.