The record-union., 1898-12-11

the trimming, but to evening toilets,
where the elaborate decoration is car
ried the whole length of the gown, both
front and back. The lacing of silk
cords ever small fancy buttons is also
made use of in producing continuous
princesse outline at the back.
The simple little easy jackets called
the "Gelsha" are made of plain French
flannel lined with China silk. They
are cut with straight fronts like
loose sacque, and are shirred in at the
belt on the back portions, and are plain
on the shoulders. The open half length
sleeves are nearly a yard wide and are
gathered in at the armhole. The en-
tire jacket is bound with handsome
satin ribbon the shade of the lining and
about four inches wide. 1t is machine
stitched at the upper edge. The gar
ment is slightly open at the throat, and
no fastenings are visible down the
front
French designers are using silver
gray, cream color apricot and pale old
rose Venetian cloths for bridesmaids
toilets, trimming them with fur and
opalescent passementeries, and lining
them with moire or brocade, rose color
IN cream or gray gowns, golden green
IN apricot or white, etc. The white
picture hats worn with them are COW
cred with dropping white ostrich
plumes relieved with color in aigrettes
and velvet chouX, the exact shade of
the lining, its tint showing also on the
vest or other bodice trimmings.
The variety in neglige sacqueS is
daintier and more pleasing than ever.
They are made of corded silk with che
nile yokes of inexpensive satin bro
eades on pale colors, of very delicately
striped French flannel or albatross,
and silk lined cashmeres. White veil
lngs with rose colored or blue lining
shows a tinge of lovely color through
the textile, and with collar and ribbons
to match and a little soft lace about
the neck and sleeves, these jackets are
! irresistible
! A handsome simple gown worn at a
| Thanksgiving dinner we'll suited its
Wearer, a tall, slender brunette, with
delicate color. 1t was made Of white
NoiNSA Silh, Win d StIlpS Ol white SdllIi
covered with black polka dots and trim
med with black net and lace. The
| waist, made in a style so becoming to
slight figures, was arranged with soft
folds draped diagonally across the fig
ure from the shoulders and under the
arms. The collar and belt were a bril-
| liant shade Of Italian red velvet, and
| this vivid touch of color made the
| gown
Sleeves laid in inch and a half folds
or tucks are still extremely popular on
handsome dresses and fancy waists,
and they continue to be used in the
heaviest materials. These tucks en-
circle the arm at the top, and at the
wrists there are a number which form
bell shaped cuff. This is not an eff
fective fashion in velvet, yet some of
| the smartest dress waists have tucked
fronts and sleeves of this heavy tex
ture.
The dressy and effective toilets regu-
lated on strict principles of black and
white or black and gray are still to be
commended for matrons. These COM
binations never offend, as brighter color
mixtures often do, and the addition of
black velvet trimmings, black lace of
elegant quality and pattern, or, for
youthful women, of black and white
or all white lace garnitures, affords a
rich and becoming finish to gowns of
| this description