The times., 1898-08-14

H6re We have in the dog days an unex-
pected novelty in wash blouses sprung on
US. and a tremendous FLIP given the Au-
gust trade. IL you wish TO be in the very
innermost heart of things you must wear
a white shirt made of muslin. silky main
sock. equally silk batiste cambric that
is as crisp and bright as satin or cross
barred muslin that is almost as fine as
Swiss. while it IS vastly softer Now the
while blouse that acts the part of band
master. captain or leader TO all other of
its genus is hand made. Howsoever neat
IL your machine-made shirt may be, 1t
strikes no envy or admiration to the heart
of the girl who sits behind you al an
cpen-air musical or polo match; it may
have its merits, but it is an abomination
in .his age trained to artistic effect.
Really the shirts of the moment might,
in their ornamentation. be twin sisters 10
4aae most luxurious lingerie and the love-
hest seen were conspicuous for the elabo-
rate and beautiful stitclery displayed up
on taem They have oddly shaped revers
and wide sailor collars made alternately
of insertion and strips of embroidered
muslin else thread-lIke tucks run in clus-
tiers between bands of lace. Lace edgings
are whipped on everywhere and the re-
vers oftenest run back from q sailor ;
vest made wholly of transparent insert
ing.
50 much cobwebby loveHness must be
worked over something stable. and in
nearly an cases 4 ught-fitting silk slip
Is the foundation. The slip is sleeveless
and sometimes cut low in the neck Many
women 0a.y use fanciful corset cover
of white lawn under such shirt waist. and
then over the blouse put on a shogt-taiied,
wide opened duck coat These dainti,y-
made garments are also IN vogue fer use
with cloth tailor dresses. their extreme
fragiIity seemingly showing in coQuettish
contrast with the heavy woolen goods.
Black and white, whether one is in
grief or not. is always a tempting cOmbi-
nation. and about Summer hotels Of a
morning we see many women wearing
hand-wrought shirts of black washing
silk having rather wide revers made Of
white lace insertion, whipped together
and run through with narrow black rib
bous
Since we have fallen on the discussion
Of bIouses. il will be as well TO recon-
mend. to youngish women. the pinafore
shirt, which really broke its shell early
in the Spring. but is only now getting
the patronage il deserved. A pinafore
shirt fastens up the back, in true child
ish style. is composed of horizontal rows
Of tucks and inserting and finishes of
al the neck with an ear-clipping collar
and = stock Of lace.
Here and there we note that the shirt
wasted woman makes modest excur-
sions in,o the realm of color, and hardly
anything could be prettier than a pink
or blGe batiste blouse. topped with a
large double Byron collar and lace fichu.
These two parts are of white lawn
crested with lace, and every seam in the
waist is put together with beading
Quite as attractive is the shirt cut on
the night gown model 1t has a round
transparent yoke of lace. gathered in TO
the throat by a colored ribbon and deep
lace cuffs 10 correspond.
If anybody wants TO know what to
wear with such shirts. let her be advised
10 use her white duck, pique or muslin
skirts in combination and rest assured
she will be suitably cosSumed fo- a
Summer wedding reception or a dance.
There is no use authorizing any fash
ion FOR the American woman as 70 wheth-
er the front of the dress waist is hooked
or buttOned fat and Quaker like over
the bus;. Realizing that charm of dress
lies chiefly in dTapsry and things that
hang fun and light she gently persists in
her own wise way of advocating a full
ness. Latterly her seal of approval
which is practical adaptation. has been
given a trifie called, for want Of a bet
ter name, a senorita jacket. For even
ing dresses they are made in light satin
embroidered thickly with a small floral
pattern worked first on chiffon and then
laid on the satin.
The jacket Itself is cut of square Just
above the bust, and below are three pleat-
ed lace frills, the lowest Of which only
comes to the waist line. Slim women ap-
pear 10 great advantage when thus ar
rayed, and many are the gingham gowns,
foulards and wash muslins made after
this fashion. Occasionally, in place Of
cutting the jacket off square in front, it
fits over the bust in the form of two large
disks, each as big as dinner plate. sIop-
ing up and around from the arm hole. IN
place of the rich and expensive applique
embroidery patterns in narrow gathered
ribbons are outlined on the jacket A
black satin senorita jacket, prettily dec
GRATED in jet or steel beading is one of
the wise woman's purchases. She wears
II with her evening dresses TO give them
an air of novelty, or richness just as they
may need touching up.
One Of the Summer whims of woman
kind are pretty chiffon hoods TO wear Of
an evening. when driving in an open car
riage to balls or dinners in the country.
Crimped chiffon, in any favorite color.
can be nsed. and the pattern is that of
q Quaker bonnet or a Normandy bonnet.
A wire frame. or one Of whale bone. is
what the chiffon is mounted on and full
killed skias Of the downy material are
allowed TO fall out all around on the
shoulders. SO ethereal is this headgear
that il places no undue weight on the
most artistic chignon. the skirts fail
costly over bare shoulders. and with long
chiffon strings the protecting cloud ties
under the wearer's chin.
Collars remain so absurdly high that
the life of the short-necked woman is
one long modification of the flesh at the
altar OF fashion. while a sleeve that ends
nationally at the wrist is enjoyed only bv
the sensible house maid In hot weather
this ruling Of the mode has something
both absurd and cruel about it. but the
woman who would haste to the divorce
courts If her husband objected To cold
coffee does not finch at swathing her
neck in the new 1920 stock cravat when
the mercury is making dashes at the one
hundredth degree
BY the way, this resurrection Of n
mode from the other end OF yle century
promises TO be one Of the autumn fea-
lures. AT the moment only the most
modLsh women are seen wear ng them
but anyone who has her grardfather's
portrait 20 model from and a broad soft
piece of Duchess satin can twist a
stock TO perfection. Stout, thick-neck
women had better satisfy themselves
with the more modest styles of throat
trimming In vogue. but slim coiumnar