The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1898-06-27

Founded a Year Later Than Santiago
and Nineteen Years After Santa Do
mingo-Americans Who Have and
Have Had Interests I'm Santa Clara
Province-Bishop Family of New
Haven Among Them.
Especial Correspondence of the Journal
and Courier.)
Washington, June q, 1898.
Outside of Cuba one hears little
about the valley of Trinidad; yet it is
the very garden-spot of the island-not
only for extraordinary beauty, fertility
and perfection of climate, but is the
place, par excellence, for growing cof-
fee and sugar. I have been told, but
cannot say with how much truth, that
the English and American syndicates
who have secured rich concessions in
the valley are keeping their operations
as secret as possible to avoid competi-
ton.
Trinidad city lies at the seaward
edge Of the valley of the same name, on
the south shore of Santa Clara prov
ince, about fifty miles east from Glen
fuegos. You may reach it from Hava-
ma going all the way around by water;
or by railway to Cienfuegos, and thence
by steamer; or as did, by rail to Bat
abano, the southern port of Havana
province, and then on a leisurely
cruise Of one hundred and fifty miles
among innumerable Gays and inlets.
At any rate, you are certain to APP
proach the region of the Holy Trinity
by sea, as there is no all-land route
from other parts of the island except
trails over robber-i infested mountains.
The first view of the old town, which
Don Deigo de Velazquez christened as
early as 1915, is something to be remem-
bered. Having rounded La Punta de
los Megros, the long, narrow point of
land which defines Trinidad bay on the
southwest, you see a white-walled city
glistening in the golden light, cuddled
up on the mountain side like babe
asleep on it's mothers bosom. Quite
appropriately, Trinidad has a trinity of
ports. They are La Boca, on the south
east, where the Tadado river empties
into the sea; the mouth of the Rio
Muse; and Casilda, a small village at
the head Of an inlet. The last named
port is now generally used, although
it's anchorage is not of the best, the
water being SO shallow that all vessels
must be loaded by means of lighters,
and put to sea as quickly as possible to
avoid sticking fast on the sandy bot
tom. The landing place, however, is
lined with wharves and extensive ware
houses, and there is a handsome depot
for the railway which runs north TWEEN
ty or thirty miles, connecting several
villages and bringing the product of
rich plantations down for shipment.
Trinidad city is three miles inland, or
perhaps we should say upland from Ca
silda AS the trains do not run on
schedule time, but only when there are
full loads Of freight to be carried, you
will do we'll to avoid a tedious time Of
waiting in the hot, flea-infested port by
being driven up in a volante, although
the charge therefor is $3.50, while the
cars would take you for twenty cents
Trinidad is one Of the Oldest towns in
Cuba, founded only a year later than
Santiago, and nineteen years after
Santa Domingo, the first On the west
ern hemisphere: Though so little is
heard of 1t nowadays, the region is not
without its stirring and romantic his
tory. Trinidad bay is the famous bat
tle-ground Of three British men-of-war
against the Spaniards under Don Luis
Bassecourt in which the English were
worsted after three days Of hard fight
ing. Perhaps the most destructive at
tack on Trinidad city was that Of the
English corsair, Grant, in 1902.
Through two long centuries it suffered
almost continually from piratical at
tacks, and many bloody traditions are
connected with the place. Indeed, it is
said that the wealthiest families here
abouts are descendants Of the old sea-
robbers who turned respectable vixen
piracy went out of fashion. They
bought land and built casas with their
ill-gotten gains, gave a lot of money to
the church for absolution and became
substantial, 1aw-abiding citizens.
One who does not mind hard climb
ing finds Trinidad the most charming
place in the world, with views on every
hand which would drive an artist wild
with enthusiasm. Rambling and billy,
with antique casas and palm-shaded
gardens, the old town clings to the side
of Villa ('Watch Tower'O mountain,
six hundred feet above the Caribbean.
Exposed to both mountain and ocean
breezes with neither excessive heat
nor cold from year to year, it's climate
is about the most perfect under the sun.
Surely this is the heart of that land
wherein it is always afternoon!" Eve
rybody seems to sleep through the
house of sunshine. In a long walk at
midday through the town of thirty
thousand inhabitants you meet only
here and there lazy donkey or a sleep
ing dog; not human being, but at rare
intervals barefooted servant shutting
along the shady side of wall. The
only drawback to the place is its lone
Illness, and the feeling which possesses
the foreigner of complete isolation from
his kind. There are several mesones
and third-class inns; but you are not
obliged to stay in them long, especially
if you have letters of Introduction.
The citizens are proverbially hospita-
BILE, and to them the visit of a foreign
er, bringing a fresh breath from the
far-away world, is a godsend.
The streets of Trinidad are narrow as
the narrowest in Spanish America and
mostly unpaved; but extremely pictur-
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