davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-03-05
Fancy Wedding Dresses.

From the New York Commercial Advertiser.
Simplicity, which was one of the chief
charms of the marriage ceremony of for
and at times absurd displays nowadays.
The one aim now seems to be theatrical
effect, and at the present rate it will not
be long before calcium lights will be en-
ployed to show off, the wedding parties
''They may look as If they were intended
for fancy dress ball, but they are for
milliner, as she lifted cloud of white tis-
sue paper, disclosing to view half dozen
white satin cooked hats. AN attempt Is
being made to introduce fancy dress ele-
ment into bridesmaids costumes, and even
if the result is fantastic, it may be for
given if 1t displays some originality. These
are Polichinelle hatS-or Punchinello l sup
pose you say in English-pink and white,
as you see, and they set off a young and
pretty face to perfection, especially If the
hair be puffed around it softly. Short wells
of lace. net or tulle, falling from a coronet
of flowers or an aigrette of ostrich tips
are also worn and are taking the place
of hats to some extent. The wells are
thrown back, of course. In lieu of bou-
quets look pretty but are awkward to carry
parasols made of flowers, floral muffs or
even garlands of artificial flowers. Bou-
quets look pretty, but are awkwar to carry
and wither quickly. In Paris''-and madam
looked dreamily out at bustling, noisy 9TH
avenue-"baskets of flowers are considered
more graceful than bouquets, and the tall
empire staffs, with flowers and ribbons on
the handles, have been revived with some
success this season. At this wedding
pointing to the cooked hats-"the maids
are to carry fans painted by the bride her
SELF"
Evening star., 1898-03-05
THE NATTER OF HATS,
What the Coming Styles in Millinery
Are to- BE.
From the Millinery Trade Review

fi"m thn Millinery Trade Review
The medium large hats will take the place
OF the very large ones. The dress hats
have generally rather low, broad. square
crowns. with the brim of equal width back
and front, and wider and lifted at the left
side There are also hats with very low
crowns and medium wide brims curling up
all around. Brims are mostly simple
scme OF them as straight and fiat as the
accepted brim Of the sailor hat-while there
are hats with the brim heightened out and
overlapping At the back for convenience in
Lifting, turning UP and the disposition OF
drapery; hats with the brim curving in on
each side 10 9 scallop at the back; hats with
the brim very wide and rising high at the
left side, as seen in shapes of the autumn
shape now and then in which the flare
al the front is repeated. and other evil
cence, in brims of a capricious tendency
IN the walking hats there are tall and
E-eilum tall taperins crowns, and tall and
iirIlum tail indented crowns with the ac-
Cepied brim Of the English hat drooping
az front and back and curling on the edge
Nnlle curling quite high at the sides Some
NaiklnS hats have the brim much wider
~ tIie LETT side than at the right side, and
turned UP high. a new shape for the sailor
hat has the FIAT brim narrowing az the
back. with the Tam O'Shanter crown, one
shape with this crown having a brin1
known as the bicycle tire" distinguished
b. q roll on the edge.
To define shapes in which bonnets NAV
be expected to appear is still more difficult
than 10 decide as to shapes which may pos
s!5!y prevail in hats. Every bonnet brought
forward differs in some wise in outlines
The broad diamond shape. with the points
curled upward, seen In certain of the
glass hats Of the early winter, subject to
Hodihcations OF adjustment and garniture
with n view to novelty, is noticeable now
s anu lhen IN a bonnet sent over from Paris.
Ihe comb bonnet. with wing-like appen
Cages sprinSing out at the sides, appears
In collections of French models; and butter
ny effects. Hover effects and various fanci-
full caprices have part in the untrimmed
bonnets seen among The recent importa-
tiCns.
For the most part, however. what may
De CLASSIFIED as shape!ess. both IN bonnets
Evening star., 1898-03-05
EVENING COSTUMES
What European Women Are Wearing
at Formal Functions.
TEE EVOLUTION OF THE SLEEVE
A Handsome Model That Shows a
Number of Novel Features.
FINE GLOVES AND HOSIERY
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
FRANKFORT-O -ON-THE E-MAIN,


FRANKFORT-ON-TH
February 81 1895
The evolution of the sleeve manifests it
self in the ball costumes as we'll as in any
other Conspicuous among the new models
of dancing frOcks for young ladies Is the
short and rather scant shoulder puff, which
eiongates into shiTrings and frills fitting
close to the arm and covering it to the ell
bow and often 10 the waist, a fattering
mode to the youthful arm of slender pro-
portions.
Other ball sleeves consist of the favored
short puff. which is often used as foun-
dation for nimsy epaulette garnitures of
pressed diaphanous stuffs or bows of ribbon
and flowers.
The young matron. whose pride in the
contours of her shoulders and arms is jus
tilted. is prone to discard all semblance of
the sleeve. being satisfied that shoulder
straps of ribbons or flowers permit a bet
ter display of her charms.
a princess gown of heavy ivory satin is
wonder of simple elegance. 1t has a
short train, and is feStoOned along the bor-
der with wide Brussels lace, which is
caught by garlands of red roses. The bod
ice is fastened with narrow satin straps
over the shoulders, and has a fall of the
lace at the front and back. Reaching from
the laced closing at the back over the left
shoulder is a full, round boa of red roses,
which crosses the bust and is attached to
the right side in front with a clasp of dia-
monds. from whence il falls loosely to be
low the knees. The white glace gloves
reach only to the dimpled elbows and a
bracelet of diamonds encircles one upper
arm, and crescent of brilliants is fast
ened in the coiffure "a Ia Diane
4 Practical Fashion.
The fashion of wearing gossamer fabrics
for evening dress proves very practical, as
last years silk gown can be made equal to
new, with the addition of draperies and
trimmings of the soft transparent mate
rials so much in vogue.
Among the materials the travers striped
silks and gossamers are very fashionable
and new heavy silk, a moire without the
watered effect, is called 'feur de valours''
and looks soft and rich like velvet.
For very youthful evening gowns dam
asse bengalines and peau de sole and sa-
TN duchesse are most successfully used
While the train is indispensable TO the
Evening star., 1898-03-05

her best customer-a girl worth a fortune
to her-believe she came from Paris by just
addressing her always as Mile. Mees.
Blonde. The girl was fair-haired, and the
dressmaker made believe she couldn't speak
her name and that she didn't know Mile
and Miss meant the same thing. The girl
was delighted.
But ] was going to tell you about the
new bicycle dresses. They are made in
brighter colors than last years. Just as the
new wheels are painted and decorated so
much more gaiy than the plain black
frames everybody preferred a year or two
ago.
Bicycle Costumes.
Il sent one home this morning It was
of brilliant red-brown cloth, with a black
cloth band on the short skirt and double
revers of black cloth on the jacket; this
opened over a shirt waist of pale blue cot
TOM
costume" 1 ventured. What is safest for
people with muddy skins?"
TO get rid of them. l don't know a wo-
man who has ridden bicycle conscien-
ticusly for two seasons, especially if she
mas had little massage with her exercise
VINO can't wear about any color she wants
to-.
But while the treatment is working the
woman might stick to black and white
uniess she is afraid of looking Ike a
widow just coming out of mourning
turned to inspect couple of street
dresses Just ready for their boxes and tis-
sue paper, understanding tha. it was Use-
less TO expect any further fio-y of wisdom
The first one, fit for the south in March
1or New York in May, was of abbess blue
cloth, with slightly flounced skirt trim
med at the bottom with three rows of t,Ir-
quolse blue velvet ribbon. The bodice
pouched a little and was made with a
square yoke of transparent lace edged with
lated by bands of velvet ribbon, which
started on each side under the arms turned
square corners, ran to the waist and then
sloped away on the skirt, with the effect
Oh three-quarter draperies behind.
Fuwn Cloth.
The other dress was Of fine fawn cloth
with three founces applied in a novel
1ashlon. The princess draperies-princess
Styles are almost the leading ones at pres
ent-opened over an underskirt of rose
colored chiffon. The bodice had reyers
falling over the shoulders in three little
capes and embroidered In silk and chenille.
Ihere was a pretty vest of pink chiffon.
1fe little dressmaker had chosen q hat to
90 with this costume; it has a crown of
roses, While the brim was of green leaves
asked, preparatory to going:
any new tailor gowns?'
, Inc new tailor skirts are very tight at
the hips. They'll be horrible Oil the peo-
PIE VINO exaggerated the Brobdignagian
sleeves, and who showed us how hideous
were the monster hats set at right angles
ana how graceless the abrormaily stiffened
skirts. IastelesS women are always sacri-
heing themselves on the altar of fashion for
the good of the wiser individual
lallor gowns have long pointed spron
in front. The length of the skirt is com
pleted by pleated fiounce cut on the cross
ana decorative or not, according to how 1t
is handled" ELLEN 0SR0RN
Evening star., 1898-03-05
QUEEN REGENT OF SPAIN.
Something About the Wise Woman
Who Fills Tint Office.
From the Youths Companion.


The most influential parsonage in Spain
during :he present momentous crisis of its
fortunes is the queen regent, Maria Chris
tra. The maintenance of peace between
Spain and the United States has been due
in large measure to her conservatism tact
and sagacity in facilitating a change of
ministry, and enabling Sagasta to recall
General Weyler from Cuba at an oppor-
tune moment.
She is by birth an Austrian grand duchs
ess, a daughter of the Archduke Karl Fer
dinand and his second wife the Arch
duchess Elizabeth. She was conspicuous
in her youth for beauty and amability and
has shown during her career i'm Spain that
she possesses keen intelligence and So
briefly of judement-the best traits of the
Hapsburg Lorraine house
Alfonso XIII was born in lSS6. after his
fathers death. His mother has been the
regent during his minority. and although
an Austrian by birth she has commanded
the loyal support of her Spanish subjects.
If she had been queen in her own right she
could not have exercised greater power and
influence.
The education of her son has been her
chief care, and she has directed It with
homely common sense and maternal affec-
ticn. She has also faced all the RESPONSE
bilitieS of government with courage and
hrmness. She is a good queen and a wise
woman. and her great ambition is to pre-
serve the monarchy for her son.
Whether she succeeds or fails i'm this su-
preme object depends mainly upon the pa
cifcation of Cuba and the prevention OF
any outbreak of hostilities with the United
States. She is the most powerful cham
pion Of peace in Spain, and has exerted
herself strongly during recent months to
bring about change of policy i'm Cuba.
Evening star., 1898-03-05

matron's ball costumes, the young lady's
dancing frock is round. though quite long,
and showing slight tendency to dip at the
back The skirt is tight in front. but very
wide and full in the back breadths. A
founce graduating in width toward the
back is a preferred mode of widening the
lower part of the fashionable ball gown, as
We'll as the street costume.
Our illustration represents the seasons
nouveauteS.
ROse-COlorcd satin.
Rose-coloIed satin duchesse forms the
very long and plain skirt, the back
breadths of which extend into the favored
dip. A narrow band of black fur finishes
the hem with striking contrast The DO J.
ice of the sane material as the skirt is
covered with application of real lace edg-
ed with spangles and gold threads The
1tCnt Is blouse shaped and clo.es on the
lelt SIDES A belt of gold braid richly
sPanSled and decorated with buckles set
with sparkling simili, encircles the waist.
Inc square decollete in front is finished
with rCse-coored satin ribbon which forms
graceful bow loops on one side and ends
der.
novel feature of this toilet is the grace
1ul ilchu arrangement of rose-colored
gave two full pleatings of which fall as
epauiettes i over the short sleeve puffs, and
meeting at the back form a deep point at
the simii1 buckle OF the belt. Below the
belt this fichu extends into sash, whi IN
reaches to the hem of the skirt.
GloFes are not worn as long as hereto
iore and the dealers are introducing a
lumber of novelties in the way Of decora-
ucns OF this important toilet accessory.
Many gloves are embroidered or spangIed
or appliqGed to match the gown, and Some
are scanned with narrow insertions of lace
ana Il lrili or ruche of lace at the top The
grace NIT has also been successfully intro
9ueed, eue ana IN many respects it fills a long
!et want. III permits the wearer to par
take OF the tempting dainties of the buffet
without the trouble of pulling off her glove
and 1t displays rosy finger tips and mani
cured nails and glittering rings to greatest
advantage.
Deserving of Attention.
Inc coinure Is receiving more attention
than it has for years. and we are glad to
notice that women are no longer mad
Nertently following a certain fashion but
are studying their faces for the purpose Of
dressing their hair most becomineIy.
Inc return OF decorations for the hair is
gladly welcomed a very young head looks
Ike d DAINTY flower itself under q wreath
o. fragrant blossoms while the coiffure of
lace, ostrich tips or aigrettes lends n
charming dignity to the matron Few
faces could stand the severity of the pom
crrls are again allowed to fall over .ha
lofehead, and act as a charitable veil to
cover the defects of nature and ravages
of time.
While the ball toilet demands footpesr
ara hosiery tc match the costume In color
Ia: hion has in store for us eccentricities
IL that line to be worn with the demi-
toilet Thus red or green kid slippers with
silk stockings of the same color arc tho
proper thing to wear with black toilets:
nut 1t attracts attention, and let It be the
slender loot and dainty ankle only. which
ordinary. ' ''ie
Evening star., 1898-03-05
Japanese Women.
(. Mitsukuri in the Atlantic.

IN III ile Atlantlc
The women of Japan have often been
misunderstood. Ry those who have known
them they have been pronounced the best
part of japan. They have been described
as gentle, graceful beautiful and self
sacrificing. Not only in those gentler vir-
tues. but also I'm some sterner aspects Of
life, the japanese woman has shown time
ard again what she is made Of. Any one
who speaks against the purity of the jap
arese woman knows not whereof he
talks, or is vile slanderer who would de-
prive the woman of what is most precious
to her. AS the mistress of the family she
las as much real authority in the family
as her western sister. AS mother she is
paid great Difference by her children. In
society lady is always treated with re-
sPect. Thefe are some respects in which
Changes are desirable, but on the whole,
l have no hesitation in saying that the po-
s!tion of woman in Japan is a very high
one.
Evening star., 1898-03-05

From the Cleveland Leader
Mrs. Murkle--"Josiah. do you know that
you have sworr three times within an
hour, that six dark frowns have crossed
your brow, that you have spoken Grossly
to the children four times and that YOU
have hitched around in your chair so much
that / wouldn't be surprised if the carpet
were all worn out under you?'
Mr.. Murkle-"Indeed, Well can YOU tell
me how many nice things have said to
you and the children during the past hour,
how often / have laughed. how many
words of encouragement L have used how
many twinkles have come into my eyes
and how many minutes / have sat abso-
lutely still?"
Mrs. Murkle-"I haven't counted them"
Mr.. Murkle-"That's what | thought
Suppose you try looking out for a fellows
good qualities a little while. Perhaps if
you do that you'll not have so much time
to keep tab on his faults"
Mrs. Murkle beginning to weep)-"Jo-
siah, you are not satisfied with me- You
wish you were married to some other wo-
mani"
Mr.. Murkle-"Dash It, who could help
swearing under such circumstances. I've
half mind to go out and get drunk"
Mrs. Murkle-"There, now the animal in
you L.; gaining full control again. Oh why
did ever place my fair, sweet young life
in the keeping of a brute! .
(Curtair.) -
Evening star., 1898-03-05

II T. l. 1 L L l. Il
dressmaker was busy
with a "rainy-day"
costume this morn
ing.
DO you mean to
tell me-" / asked her,
that women who
have any decent re-
gard for appearances
will be seen in the
streets in that sort
of thing?"
The dress she was
finishing was com
Evening star., 1898-03-05
Advantages Of Being Properly Glad on
Rainy Days.
IN BICYCLE COSTUMES
Timely Hints From the Shops of
New York Oressmakers.
ICES AND SKIRTS

Special Corresro ndence of The Evening Star.
Copyright, 1893, by Bacheller Syndicate.)
NEW YORK, March 4, 1898.
Evening star., 1898-03-05

All the worlds stage, except that wo.
men, on the whole, are no obstacle to a
mans seeing a good deal of it.-Puck.
Evening star., 1898-03-05

Fine feathers don't make fine birds; be-
Ing mostly used to make fine ladies.-Puck.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
SIGNS OF A MYSTERY.
Blood.Soaked Clothing Found in South
Dickinson.

Herington Times: Tuesday fore
noon some parties with teams who
were going west for work in the har-
vest field reported that they had
tished out of the pond east of town and
just south Of the Missouri Pacific rail
road, gunny sack containing lot
of women's and children's clothing
besmeared with blood and that they
rather suspected that close examina-
ton might develop the fact that foul
play might have been used. They
told their story to City Marshal W.
H. Thomas who went at once to the
spot and there found inside of agunny
sack that had been securely tied,
several articles, mostly children's
wear, carefully wrapped up in piece
Of oil cloth and showing that much
care had been taken in disposing Of
the same. The water there at places
is two or three feet deep and the only
theory advanced is that the sack and
its contents had been sunk in the
water by movers such as are often
camped there.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
TOOK sl.ooo war soHDs.
G. W. Parker's Amusement Enter.
prises Are Money Makers.

The first subscriber for war bonds
in the city was c. W. Parker who
takes g., 900 worth. Mr.. Parker's sue
cess with his amusement enterprises
has made him large income and the
fact that he is able to invest so hand
some a sum in this patriotic manner
proves that he is good businessman
as we'll as that he has a most satisfac-
tory line Of enterprises. His shoot
ing galleries, riding galleries, etc.,
are in great demand. He has sold
three galleries thiss month and his
pay roll amounts to about $3.50 a
month, every man employed, with
one exception, being from this city.
Mr.. Parker is arranging to put a
private electric lighting plant in his
Midway that will give it truly met
ropolitan appearance and make it
even more attractive than it now is.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
Want No Cavalry.

Supt. Humbargar returned from
Topeka and Kansas City. While
away he looked up his pet scheme Of
forming a company Of cavalry. He
could get no satisfaction from the
governor and the best information he
could secure was that no cavalry is
wanted.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
CITY PROPERTY GOING.
People Are Buying Homes More Rap.
idly Than in Years.

One Of the most notable features Of
the real estate movement is the rate
at which people are buying city prop
erty for homes. For instance Able
4 Ellison, through H. E. Ellison, the
western manager Of the firm, have sold
since Jan. LIST more than $4,000
worth of Abilene residence property,
the places ranging in value from $3.50
to $1,000 and all being purchased for
homes. This is probably more than
was sold in three years preceding and
indicates how rapidly the desirable
places are being purchased. The time
is coming soon when the man who
wants a good home will have to build
it. The town is growing in popula-
ton, many houses have been moved
out Of the ad iitions and prices will
advance rapidly. Mr. E. has num-
Der Of other deals on hand and several
desirable properties are left that will
be taken up soon. Abilene is becom-
ing city where the residents own
their homes and a renter will in o
short time be the exception.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
Deafness Cannot be Cured

by local applications, as they cannot
reach the diseased portion Of the ear.
There is only one way to cure deaf
ness, and that is by constitutional
remedies. Deafness is caused by an
inhammed condition of the mucous
lining Of the Eustachian Tube. When
this tube gets inhamed you have a
rumbling sound or imperfect hearing,
and when it is entirely closed deaf
ness is the result, and unless the in.
famation can be taken out and this
tube restored to its normal condition,
hearing will be destroyed forever;
nine cases out Of ten are caused by
catarrh, which is nothing but an in
famed condition Of the mucous sur.
faces.
We will give One Hundred Dollars
for any case Of Deafness Caused by
catarrh) that cannot be cured by
Halls Catarrh Cure. Send for circu.
lars, free.
F. j. CHENEY & CO., Toledo, 0.
Sold by Druggists, 75c.
Halls Family Pills are the best.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
Discovered BY q Woman.

Another great discovery has been
made, and that too, by lady in this
country. "Disease fastened its clut.
ches upon her and for seven years
she withstood its severest tests, but
her vital organs we're undermined
and death seemed imminent, For
three months she coughed incessant.
ly, and could not sleep. She finally
discovered a way to recovery, by
purchasing Of us a bottle OF DR..
Kings New Discovery for consump-
ton, and was so much relieved on
taking first dose, that she slept all
night; and with two bottles, has been
absolutely cured. Her name is Mrs.
Luther Lutz." Thus writes W. G..
Hamnick & Co., Of Shelby, N. G.
Trial bottles free at J. N. Gleissner's
Drug Store. Regular size SOC and
$l.W. Every bottle guaranteed.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
Compliments for VIM, Shane.

Hope Dispatch: Hope loses asplen-
did citizen as VIM. Shane, who has been
manager of the Badger Lumber yard
at this place, has been promoted to
the management of the yard at Abb.
lene. Mr.. Shane got his first lessons
in the lumber yard business in the
yard at Abilene where he worked
about eight years and was sent out
from there in the boom some eleven
years ago and took charge of the yard
at Carlton. From there he was trans
ferred to Gypsum and from Gypsum
to Hope. He is pleasant gentleman
and good businessman and we are
glad to see him promoted to the bust
ness in Abilene, although we regret
to see him leave Hope.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1898-06-23
MANY WENT HOME.
Discouraged Would.Be Volunteers
Give It Up.

The boys who had gathered here
Thursday morning in response to the
advertisement of the State for yolun.
teers waited patiently all day and un.
til the arrival Of the night trains in
vain hope that the recruiting officers
would meet their engagement and be
here. But they came not, neither
did they send word of explanation.
A large number of boys had no money
to pay for a nights lodging. Mayor
Folk and Marshal Favor remained on
the streets until late caring for the
boys, furnishing beds for 48 Of them.
A large number grew discouraged
and not being able to pay their way
here and wait for the dilatory officers
went home.
Up to Up. m. no officers had ap-
peared and no one is likely tobe here.
1t is considered mighty bungling
piece of business.
Adjutant Deford who ordered the
enlistment date was in Kansas City
yesterday but sent no word here.