The herald., 1898-09-25
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+ SPANISH COOKERY !
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made early in his qua ,,.as 49, We" h,s
that the food given !. fron, Anranoi,s
liking. Later accor 80 80 n.o.n 49, n" 90 ~ >
did not touch uri .nis phase ol n'e
o oonsa " n. e cookery of the south
a., ",,,a ...or whether he was pro-
e .,ao,, ...,.h Spanish chef does not ap-
49, III 3ntinued good health proves
iSat ~ iSrove, and at all events on
sna. g better than bareback and
bacon.
III, unlike his hardy and simple-far-
Y prototype, one Admiral Columbus,
lefeated and forced to capituate by de-
scendants of people who settle the land
discovered by the illustrious Colon, dared
complain of what was set before him,
dared intimate to his captors that he did
not like their food
Travellers and those familiar with
Spanish dishes agree that the concoc-
lions Of Spanish artists in cuisine are
beyond analysis. Spices and sours,
singing little vegetables and biting,
fiery essences ard powders - there Is
none known that does not find place
in the herb vaults and cupboards OF the
epicures of Aragon and CASTLE.
Who has not heard of the OLA podrida?
A dish into which enters bit of every
thing, and always highly priced by Pas
cual Cerveras countrymen. These are
few-it would be rash to say all-of
the ingredients found In this national
dish: A half-Quart Of chicken peas pre-
viously soaked In water for few hours,
a couple of carrots, some chirzos Span
ish red sausages), long pepper, Glove or
two of garlic an onion, bunch of pars-
ley, q dozen heads of lettuce, colewort
or two, tomatoes, slice of gourd1and
any other old vegetable. These to be cut
up and put into the stock pot with half
dozen pounds or so of brisket Of beef,
the knuckle end of leg of mutton, half
a pound of smoked streaky bacon, few
slices Of ham and lastly a fowl. These
liquid carefully SKINNED, and, after 1t
has boiled, allowed to simmer for the
short space of six hours.
1t would seem as if the originator of
the dish had aimed to compete with the
witches in Lear" but to conclude that
would doubtless be committing an an
achronism. Certainly there Is bubble,
bubble, toll and trouble enough in its
making.
One other dish, vindaloo, very popular
with the hidalgoes of old Seville, is made
up about as follows: Take six ounces of
lard, one tablespoonful of bruised garlic,
one of ground garlic. one of ginger, two
teaspoonfuls Of ground chilli. one OF
roasted and ground coriander seed, half
teaspoonful Of cooked cumin seed
(some prefer three bay leaves), al few
peppercorns, four cloves, four carda-
mons, six sticks of cinnamon, half cup
full of vinegar, and last and APPARENTLY
least, two pounds of pork, beef or duck.
These ingredients to simmer over slow
fire for two hours, or till the meat liz
perfectly tender.
Not among all the recipes In the
white Ribbon Cook Book" Is there one
to compare with this, for diligent search
has been made. 1t is doubtful If any
of the statesmen of this country have a
taste so perverted as to relish such a
hot dish. The standard work compiled
by the Washington National Tribune,
"Statesmen's Dishes and How to Cook
Them" to which prominent society wo-
men, including Mrs Benjamin. Harrison,
Mrs. John A. Logan, Mrs. Phil Sheridan,
Mrs. Melville w. Fuller and Mrs. John
Wanamaker have contributed the reci-
pes for their husbands favorite dishes.
does not contain anything approaching
the combination known as vindaloo.
And 1t Is fitting so, for America is a
nation of simple livers. If simplicity in
food indicates q powerful nation, 1t can
be seen that the vitiated tastes of the
Spanish show weakness. America has
Inherited ideas of sound and healthful
food (mince pie is the rule-proving ex-
ception) from sturdy ancestors, whether
English, Dutch or German-thank heav-
en- they were not Spanish! And not