The times., 1898-01-30
They Will Elaborate the ROsom
of the Spring Shirt.
LATEST DESIGNS in STUDS
Jeweled Knobs for Decoration. W.lile
the Humble Under-Button Will do
the Hest = Waistcoats and Tea
gowns-Amerfoan Ready-Made Un-
derwear tile Very Best.

to talk OF what the new shirt waist
will be like, because the manufacturer
and tailors always work one seasol
ahead of time, and have just completes
their stock for the spring trade. Al
the smartest of these little bodices ar
made of checked gingham, and there q
scarcely an exception TO the rule in ia
vor of tucked bosoms. There is no mo
notony in the tucking, however. Ont
pretty pale blue waist will have fifteer
fine tucks, forming on either side il
front a pointed yoke, thus throwing
considerable fuilness over the bust
Another bosom IS tucked in diamond
shape, another laid in perpendicular
plaits. wide or narrow, and then we
have change in the arrangement OF
the buttons. Studs will be little used
for down the front clusters cf three OF
five tiny pearl buttons are, at intervals,
sewed on very close together. These
properly do not hold the fronts of the
short together at all: a serviceable un-
derband does that, while the pearl
knobs are for decoration purely.
In case anybody is desirous of ask
ing the question, il may as well be af-
firmed here that shirt fronts Will pouch
just a Wee bit: that ON many a sensible
shirt the back is quite as elaborately
tucked as the front, and cuffs and
sleeves are in no salient points different
from those we wore last year.
Next after gingham, the typical wo-
mans shirting OF this season, in cot
ton goods, will be white and colored
widely-corded pique. They have in the
majority been made with three deep
horizontal tucks across the full bosom,
and are caught in front with three or
four very broad white pearl buttons.
BY the way, ii is whispered about
that the summer novelty in jewelry will
be studs and buttons and pins OF carved
pink and mother r-of-pearl, set in silver,
or with skeleton silver patterns cut out
over the pearl. Meantime, while the
women are snubb.ng their pretty noses
against show windows to see the very
early novelties that share the public's
interest with the January bargains in
white goods. there are still some very
fetching evolutions being made in the
silk shirt waist. The newest conner in
that line is q shirt of taffeta that opens
only down the back. 1t is usually
evolved from tempting bits of silky col
or found of some remnant counter, and
it, buttoning up behind, has draw
string about the waist which ties IN
front, and gives a fun pouched bosom
A stiff. high. White linen collar is
worn with such a shirt but the necktie
is apt to be lengthy scarf of some pale
tinted silk muslin or chiffon, with
tucked and hemstitched ends. wound
twice about the throat and knotted
large and full in front. 1t is the pop
ular thing TO make these little waists
of striped silk or French flannel, let
ting the stripes run crosswise of the
body and arranging the sleeves on the
same model.
1t is really only when the wintry blast
registers something in temperature
near the zero point that wraps of any
Importance are worn. Feminine taste
is all for little shoulder capes, little
tippets and neck pieces of no conse-
auence at all, so far as warmth goes,
and unless one possesses PERSIAN
lamb or broad tail coat with jeweled
belt, the inclination is to put off wraps
entirely. This. Of course, gives the
smart fur-trimmed velvet dress basque
a fair chance to air its splendors, but
TO go without a coat smacks OF pneu-
monia and its discomforts-
To avoid these dangers, however. the
non-coat wearing women have adopted
These are sleeveless gar
ments, cut like those Of men, made OF
black, or colored silk. interlined with
6
are indeed. Stout women, who cannot
afford to put on so much extra bulk,
are wearing, knit Of Shetland wool,
sleeveless vests chat button from chin
to hips, and thtse they declare, with a
fair show Of truth, are much warmer
than any coats and far lighter and
easier to carry about on ones shoul-
ders.
Mention of vests inspires a natural
comment on the waistcoated glories
Just now of the golfing woman. Her |
winter waistcoat for the links is 1
wonderful and dazzling garment. In /
princess stitch, the front of it is knit |
ted Of German wool. in color that |
startles and certainly should dismay |
many complexions. Brilliant egg yell |
low, cerise. arsenic green and cerulean |
blue are some Of the choice tones Sc
ected to shine on tho wintry landscape. |
The front is knitted nearly up to. the
hin, and is fastened down the front
with six big gold brass buttons. A
back of flannel usually fits in these
ogs and sleeves are added, rather big
ormless ones of wash silk or taffeta
Later on, when gentle springtime's
1eneficent influence is felt. smart golf
of thin plaid cheviot are
going to be the mode, and still later
ow-cut ones of pique, worn sleeveless,
With linen backs. In the cheviots of |
lew design there is plenty Of range and
Excuse for enthusiasm. They have
their colors from the sober, |
ovely shadings Of ducks and doves
breasts, shot with soft blue and red.
yreen and yellow streaks. Many are
woven in broken plaids that are not in
he least conspicuous and not less en-
icing are the foulards
We discovered IA wear ha biot oo,,
uct and character of this silk weave,
nd if anything, in color and quality,
-e have inpt owed on our late acQuaint-
nee. This season they are doubly
willed, and called Aya foulards. and
o describe their colorings would puZ-
lie an artist. 1t is enough. in brief, to
ay that the tendency of their designs
toward modified Persian, while for
hose in delicious tones, from palest |
lac to deepest violet, the purchasers
re showing a preference.
Between seasons the true oddities of |
ashton crop out, and it seems at the
as if every female throat was
ncircled by a four-in- -hand-not a sim |
le masculine cravat of that species by
ny means, but length of satin, may
e of silk or silk muslin. of any color |
he likes. tipped with crisp double frills
{ tulle or a little row of fur tails. or
ilk fringe. Fringe is positively the
ltest, and sometimes long roman
triped or scarlet scarf is tied under ,
ne chin in a large bow knot. while a
ashing jeweled pin is fastened right
/ the heart Of the bow. That pin is
pt to be q small turtle, all of dia-
,onds, or tiny scorpion of rubies,
Of wonders--a scrap of a
louse carved from clear pebble and set
ith jeweled eyes. claws and TAIL This, ,
lough. is only an eccentricity of the .
that a faithful chronicler of
lshion must note. .
Another little whim of the hour by ,
ax-arxy racn,-.ooF,,l |