The herald., 1898-04-24
TWO CHARMING

the added circular lower portion, which
has created such revolution in the world
of New York fashions.
Paris styles as exemplied by important
toliettes shown at exclusive openings are
not restricted to this cut but rather to the
polonaise and princess effects as we have
already told you. The polonase effect is
attained by lengthwise trimmings and side
panels which open over fronts of differ
ent color, when the waist and skirt are
separate.
The young lady with the parasol shows
this lengthwise skirt trimming in one of
its simplest forms. The material is rose
colored feur de velour. The shaped flounce
is hemmed with geranium colored taffeta
and headed by an application of white
satin and lace. The bodice is trimmed to
correspond.
The next figure wears a true polonaise
Of almond colored bengaline which has
revers, covered with puffings of grey silk
muslin. The skirt is covered with kilt
pleated grey silk muslin. A scarf Of lilac
Persian silk Is made into rosettes on the
skirt and waist and makes q waist band.
The guipure Is also Of the lllac-a delicate
gauze. The lilac toque corresponds in coll
or. The young woman in the oval panel
wears a costume, the original of which was
simply irresistible. The skirt is foulard
with a white ground figured with deli
cate green. The jaunty little coat of green
cloth has a Louis XIII. scarf of ruby faille
tied at the side. The borders ofithe coat
have an application of white guipure and
wide knife pleated ruffle of white taffeta.
The hat to be worn with this costume is of
white rice straw with a crown of pale pink
roses.
The first gown commencing at the left
In the group of three is princess Of black
faille opening over front Of Havana
brown China crepe. On the corsage the
princess is cut into straps over bodice of
cream guipre. Rhinestone buttons hold
these straps to the bodice. The central
figure Of this group wears a gowrs of red
cloth encrusted with braid and black en-
broidery Stimulating lace. The decollette Is
filled in with cream mousseline de sole.
Last but not least we have the visiting
costume Of Parma violet cloth and black
silk-a peau de sole. The cloth polonaise
overskirt is cut away in front over the silk
skirt. The bodice opens to show the black
silk under bodice. The trimming is fine
soutache. 1t will be noted by the observ-
ing eye that all fullness has disappeared
about the waist in the evolution of wo-
mems costume skirts. This has naturally
Influenced underskirts. There are invari-
ably of the sheath shape and flounced to
the knees. One founce is generally con-
sidered sufficient but in the moro expen-
sive kind we see three or four put on very
full.
v The dress skirt fOunces are generally
without fullness and composed Of two cir
cular rings of material or of two shaped
pieces, each of them being three-quarters
Of ring. OF course, this requires double
width goods, unless the breadths are Joined
before cutting. These skirts are generally
unlined and mounted on foundation.
Pongee Is having it's innings this season.
A white Japanese weave can be washed.
Navy blue and black with white are fash
ionable combinations. Curving transverse
lines crossing leaves or bud figures are one
OF the most popular effects. Some with
dark grounds have sunflower and daisy
enects in white and are very becoming.
Other designs show club figures mingled
with cloudy sand-like FORMS Bead chains
FORM the design in pale mauve which Is
delightful to look upon. In foulards MANY
transverse lines are shown and in those
Intended for waists Indian and Turkish
icolorings are used.
Chlldren's frocks have fallen into line
this season and display the tucks so popu-
lar with the grown-ups. These tucks are
USED Tor yokes, and also in many cases re-
leated above the hem and are as fine as tho
French lingerie pleats Ribbon is freely
USED 10 trim and gauzy ruffies and flounces
give an airy effect that is very tcmpt-
" bloused waist had a yoke of fne tuc,r,
Alternating with insertion ana outlined