The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-08-03

| the last two seasons has caused a re-
action in the opposite direction, conse-
quently the costumes of feminine
groups on the verandahs and streets of
this remarkable place, show very deli
cate shades, or a large proportion of
white and black, in combination.
White pique dresses naturally belong to
morning, and whether trimmed with
white insertion or braid or skirts with
colored jackets, they are always attrac-
tive and pretty for breakfast. A new
idea is the deep hounce and jacket of
blue in an call over" pattern of white
braid; or another fancy is green and
purple plaid on white pique with three
narrow green silk ruffies edged by white
lace; green silk revers on jacket, and
white sailor hat with green scarf and
fringed ends.
PLAIN OR PLAIDED BLUE SILK TRIM
MINGs
on white pique are equally effective,
and plain linen suits trimmed with
braid, although somewhat severe are
| ladylike and simple. The most extrav-
agant dressing seen here is usually af
| fected by the nouveauX riches, and it
is mistake to suppose that expensive
costumes are absolutely necessary for
| enjoyment at Saratoga. A dark blue
| foulard silk with white pin head dots
worn on the verandah of large hotel,
was an example of taste and gentility;
made with narrow double rutfie at
the lower edge of the skirt with two
deep ones above it, sloping up at the
| back, loose front wife With silk revers
10 Of ha onA IF
ecru Russian lace appliqued on each
collar and white silk belt.
MANY BLACK AND WHITE
costumes figure among fashionists; an
especially pretty one worn by young
Baltimore matron, was of soft fine
black taffeta silk, with two rows of
black point d'esprit insertion, with
scalloped edge, all around the skirt and
extending up the front. Two addition
al rows come down each side of
lengthwise apron front. Waist is, of
course, blouse front with white chiffon
vest across which, gathered black satin
ribbon is laid in loops. Sleeves have
small puff at the top, with bands of in
sertion across, and diagonal rows run
is under every row of insertion.
oRGANDIEs
are more beautiful than ever this sea-
son, being made with a drop skirt of
similar material, which adds to their
softness. A lovely white organdy
worn here by Chicago belle had six
rufiles, headed and edged with pink,
~ lhoh ~ - ha
straight around, each one pointing
little more at the front. Sleeves tuck
ed crosswise and finished with a ruffle
full front having rows of insertion,
and pointed organdy frill over the
sleeves, the points disappearing in the
full front. Collar, shoulder knots and
sash of pink ribbon, with a knot at
each side of the front, Rhine stone
buckle at the center, and full bow with
short ends at the back. Similar bows
of ribbon at the wrists.
BLACK SATIN RIBBON
ruffles on white organdy are very styl-
ish, or white lace trimmings on black,
and by way of contrast plain red Or
CANDY, the drop skirt having one deep
ruf1ie, and the outer skirt with three
narrow ruffles, edged with narrow black
velvet, worn by dashing brunette,
was most effective in the summer twi-
light. The full waist had three bands
of black lace insertion woven in points
at back and front. Sleeves in nous.
quetaire style, cuffs finished with ruff
fies, and sash trimmed and edged with
black lace.
AN ELEGANT EVENING DRESS
of black net over white taffeta silk de-
signed and sent here by Lord & Taylor
of New York city for special occasion,
had an apron front embroidered in cut
jet beads and spangles; the back COM
posed entirely of narrow net founce
coming up to the waist. with net sash
trimmed with narrow ruffles. The low
neck corsage had two straps across the
shoulders, with long sleeves (without
lining) attached by the lower part of
the arm-hole, and the full net front
was ornamented with jet bow-knots de-
| signs.
SARATOGA is THE PARADISE
Of the shade hat, as the atmosphere is
| dry and delicate materials are not cas-
lily injured. Ostrich feathers are as
much worn as they were last season,
and nothing displaces the large, ex-
pensively-trimmed Leghorns. A charm
ing Neapolitan on sweet-looking
young girl, had broad twist of white
chiffon and pink velvet around the
crown, and at. one side was large bow
of pink velvet and wide chiffon ends
with ecru lace appliqued ON the chiffon,
and wired 30 as to keep them in posi-
ton. Three large, pink crushed roses
under the brim, gave the finishing
touch.
BLACK OR CoLoRED SILK NULL HATS
never lose their hold on popular favor,
and from among soft folds and ruch-
ings, branch out stiff quilts or wings,
but the novelty for tennis, golf or
yachting is the "golf bonnet" made Of
plaided organdy, with faring front,
loose crown, fitting toward the front
and deep frill Cor cape,) at the back,
with long, wide strings to be tied under
the chin; in fact almost reproduction
| of what was once called in the country