The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1898-07-24
NOVELTIES IN PERFUMES.
Discovery That RevOIutionizcs the
Making oG Toilet Soaps.

Discovery That RevoIutiOnizcs the
Making of Toilet Soaps.
From the Boston Journal Of Commerce.
Recent Inventions have accomplished
some wonderful things with perfumes 1t
has been ascertained that vas5liue can be
employed to great advantage as a eubsd-
tute for lard in obtaining ana preserving
the scents Of flowers, the quality of per-
manency, so dong sought, being in this
way secured. Ordinary vase,ine would
uot-1o at all for the purpose. but Il must
be OF a peculiar kind, extremely pure. and
taken at a certain stage of the manufac-
ture of the article. Most people know that
colognes are made by laying the petals CT
flowers upon lard, which absorbs the per-
fume. The lard is then STEPPED in llco-
hol, which, having a greater affinity for
the perfume than the lard itself posse sses.
Withdraws il from the lard aud thus be-
comes the sweet-scented spirits that fur
uish sweetness for my lady's handkerchief.
Before long, however. vaseline Will be used
altogether in place of lard, and there Will
be a great improvement in the commercial
coloSnes
There is now being produced for The first
lime, says a contemporary, "a ViO'et soap
that holds its perfume. Il IS a o entirely
new achievements and the persistence Of
the delicious Odor impaired 60 the article
may be judged from the fact that hand
kerchiefs placed for a short time in an
empty box which mas contained the soap
viii retain the scent for month after be
ing transferred to a coat pocket. Ever
since the manufacture OF toilet soaps was
first attempted il has been considered
that the ultimate aim was satisfactory
violet soap. Lubin was the first to make
a good violet soap, but il did not hold its
perfume AT present three kinds of violet
soaps are on the market. one of these
is Favored with the so-called Parma violet.
which is the most powerfui ANA penetra-
ting of flower doors The second has the
perfume of the wood violet The third is
the soap above described, which holds its
permanence the true bouquet of the sin
sic English violet IL is made of olive oil,
and represents the highest evolution OF
soap making up 10 date.
Firms in Chicago and elsewhere are now
tuning out large quantities Of soap pow
der. which, they contend, is desuned 10
take the place of cake soap almost entirely
within half a dozen years. OF course soap
powder has been more or less in use for a
long time past but Il has remained for re-
cent invention to make IL in a.l respects
satisfactory. In its perfected form IL mas
mBny advantages over cake soap. one can
take as much or as lttle of ia ass one de-
SlIGS.. ana ~ may re QtliiA'A WIN biNaN'i
rapidly. For shaving it VIII furnish
lather in one-tenth of the time, For hotels
and other public places 1t has special
merit from the sanitary point of view BE"
fore long. il is asserted, there VIII BE as
many kinds Of soap powders ms nowadays
there are Of cake soaps, and they Will be
perfumed with as great a variety Of
scents.
II is only recently that science has come
to understand just what an odor is. II is
a substance in a state of minute sub-diVis-
ion. in other words, a gas. Flowers owe
their sweetness to essential oils contained
in their petals These essential oils are al
ways ready to latilize at ordinary tenn
peraures. Take out the stopper OF bot
lie of violet essence, and Immediately it
begins to perfume the room. Flowers, then,
are bottles with the shoppers out. The lard
or vaseline used in the manufacture OF
colognes has an affinity for such volatile
oils. and 50 takes them up and holds them.
Musk is a solid from which vapor is con-
stantly passing off, but in such minute
particles that few grains of it will per-
fume a room for years without losing any
perceptible part of its weight. This Of
course, is an animal substance but the
principal is he same.
There are flowers which are scentess by
day but smell powerfully at night Some
roses are devoid of odor, while others have
odorless, as the Marie Gullot and Tri-
omphe de Milan. The Socrates rose has
the odor of peaches. the Souveraine that
Of melons. the Isabella Narbonnaud that
Of voiiets the SafranO that Of pinks, and
the MaCartnea that OF apricots NO two
roses on the same bush have exactly the
same odoT, experts declare, and at differ
ent times of day the same flower emits
different perfumes. u is now known that
the pleasant odor Of fresh earth is due 10
the presence of a minute trace Of a sub
stance the exact constitution of which has
not yet been ascertained This substance
is so intensely odorous that SO small a
quantity as a trilHOnth Of milAgram
yields a perceptibe smell.
Not only the blossoms Of plants, but the
leaves and other parts, contain essential
oils which give forth pleasant doors. San
dawoOd which has 50 agreeable and per-
sistent a smell is a familiar example
Many barks are odOriferOus. The per-
fumes of some plants are as interesting
as they are peculiar. The yellow catkns
Of The goat-wllow have an odor Of brandy
The flowers of the Sinking acacia" have
a putried smell, but the wood smells ike
raspberry jam, so that it is sometimes
called raspberry jam wood" The "stnk-
ing goosefoot' has an olof Of putrid salt
fish. oddly enough, the chemical com
pound which imparts the offensive odor
of The goosefoot. The large Hver-colored
blossoms Of the Arum dracunculus eXhale
a smell Of carrion that is almost unendur-
able Carrion flies, bOW-fiies and other
nauseous insects gather to deposit their
eggs upon these flowers, mistaking them
for putrefied meat. There Is a kind Of
orchid that has the offensive smell of goat
The so-called mouse mushroom smells like
a mouse, and another species OF fungus
has the perfume Of rOat beef. The leaves
of the tooth-leaved maiden plum Of the
West Indies, when bruised. emit sui
phurous odor that causes birds 10 fan suf-
focated. The natives believe that it Is
dangerous 10 sleep in the shade Of this
tree.
Musk is very widely distributed in ma
ture being found in birds, beasts, fishes
insects, reptiles and plants. The CONNER
cial musk is obtained mostly from the
musk deer 1t is used chiefly to render
other perfumes permanent by admixture
with them. Amberaris, the origin Of
which was for so long a puzzle, is now
known to be a hillary concreuon which