Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-10-01
FOR UP-1O-DATE WOMEN
Materials Suitable for Dress and Utility
Wear.
Illuminated Effects in Tveeds and
POplfn Wen ms Silk
and Wool.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

| city goods. and why are those made of the
most inartistic combinations of silk and
| wool which can be found? For there is
| great danger In choosing these beautiful
| changeable gowns. pattern which at
/ first sight is most magnificent will some
| times pail upon the eye after it has been
/ worn but a few weeks, while another
| which at first sight seems too dark and
| quiet to show its real costliness and worth
| often grows more attractive upon & longer
| acquaintance
| Chosen with proper care. nothing IS
| handsomer for winter gown than 4 mix
| ture of silk and wool. 1t will wear long
| enough to Justify its first cost, and will
wear its look of distinction to the end. OF
course. it will not take the place of run
about gown. nor would it be suitable fer
| marketing and walking tours, but for af-
ternoon wear. for receptions, or for any of
the many occasions upon which hand
some gown is needed it is most admirable.
1t is far richer and more serviceable than
troadcleth, much more suitable for our
winter climate than silk, and altogether
should be appreciated at its true worth
| and much worn during the coming season.
Setting aside the really admirable and
sensible qualities of novelty goods. L may
be frankly stated that it has come to the
| front by the efforts of the Partisan cos
tuners. who long for a change from plain
| cloth. The combinations of colors are truly
bewldering. 1t is needless to say that
| black is always one of the partners to every
| combination. In the new crepons, which
are considerably modified from those We
knew, the black usually appears in bay
adore effect of raised chenille upon the
| body of the mixture of silk and wool, which
| is often changeabIe in effect. In the beau-
| tiful effects of a raised pattern of flowers
or leaves in changeable green or red the
iyraD h1n lie nj e
| These exquisite materials are known az
! two,toned jacquards, but they have more
| colors thar that as almost every green or
red shown has a caangeable sheen.
| "Changeable.' by the way, is not the word
| by which they are now described; "illumi-
mated is the proper adjective when you GO
| into a shop and want changeable effect.
| And everything Is Illuminated; even pop
| lins and tweeds come in this changeable,
| iridescent effect which they dub 'illumi-
mated"
TwO-Toned Striped Goods.
| Everything has a stripe, which may
| either be raised or plain, serpentine or
| straight, and which often crosses the body
| of the cloth in Two directions. The most
| beautiful examples of this We're seen in
! black and golden brown. Sometimes III
! these goods the black was the most promi
| rent color. and the silky brown formed the
| backgrour d; sometimes it was vice versa.
] ana brown clGln was SET on by lines Va
| silky black in bayadere effects. An lllu-
minated serpentine, which combined
changeabie green and brownish yellow.
with narrow line of black running
| through at irregular intervals, d good
| example of the present designs, but in ar
tistic merit ii does not compare with the
| golden browns with bayadere lines OF
| black. By the way, brown and black "a
bright brown, military blue and black. and
| forest green and black are the most popu-
| lar combinations of colors in cloth. six or
| novelty mixtures that can be found. Which
| being interpreted. means that WPateVet
you do you must have more than one color
| in your gown. Common sense dictates that
| two colors will be enough. but fashion does
not know where to stop, and one may see
| coats reminding little OF that worn
| by Joseph.
| Broadcloths though not to be mentioned
in the same category of favor as silk and
| wool combina lions, are yet very much
worn, for most women like to have at
| least one good standby in cloth gown.
| They not dependent upon broadcloth
| however. The modern Venetian cloth re-
sembles 1t very much, Is not as expensive
and wears quite as well, while zibeline is
| back again. either in plain colors or in
handsome nlaids of black and red, black
and purple, black and blue or black and
green. There are also ne" corded zbelines
which come highly recommended. Cash
mere is back in full force this year 1t is
rougher than last season. and has strong
resemblance to the cashmeres of decade
English look in spite of its French name, is
like covert on one side and a serge the
other. 1t is warranted to wear like iron,
and when one is tired of one side it is only
necessary to have the gown turned and
wear it on the other. 1t is really an excel
lent investment for cloth gown which is
likely to hard service.
Speaking of reversible cloths brings to
mind the Scotch fiannels. which are sold for
tennis and golf. They are thick. soft and
warm, and grow in popularity from year to
year with those who try them and learn
| their excellent qualities. They may be had
military blue, brown or black and on the
reverse side are bright Scotch plaid.
Wool Fabrics for All Uses.
Illuminated covert cloths a novelty
and take away from this staid material
some of it's sameness. Illuminated poplins
are also shown and add new combination
to this always beautiful and serviceable
material. Heather mixtures are made up in
heavy Scotch goods into bicycle skirts,
rainy day suits and many other sensible
combinations demanded by the women of
the day. The heather mixtures are only
just becoming known, and every one who
is likely to need a cloth which will not
shrink and which may be worn in all
Weathers is advised to look at them The
dark yet artistic shades in which they come
are very attractive we'll serviceable.
Plaids bid far to be less popular than
there are many plaids to be had, and the
newest bear little fieck of bright color
in the stripe which crosses them; technical
ly, it is known a "nub' of color. AL
though plaids will not be generally worn,
yet some very smart gowns intended for
wear in the country have just been made
up of large, broken plaids. They are made
most simply, with the new trailing skirt
with one plat in the back and ught-fit-
ting basque, often with little position
paitS in the back.
Cheviots appear among utility cloths and
even the tweeds dubbed illuminated"
and are really what they purport to be.
The new tWeeds are really excellent and
come in such pretty patterns that one is
not reminded OF the caricatureS of tourists
who travel second-claSs. Nothing could be
more suitable for a travelling or knock
about gown than the new tweedS, and they
are earnestly recommended to the attention
of every woman who is lucky enough to
have ahead of her a winter of travel ana
change of scene. MABEL BOYD.
In FOrgivfnS Mood.
Copyright. 1888. Life Publishing Company