The herald., 1898-09-04

fringed end rather more than an inch In
fltngth. The braid was caught at the back
In the weave of the stuff
Moire poplins have some Of them, a small
brocade figure almost covering the surface:
others are spotted. The designs are not
oval, but In rings, etc. A new species OF
Idress pattern has made its appearance
The pattern destined for the skirt-which
lis without seams-consists of large circle
4 or square in which the center will be cut
away and the placket hole slit, leaving no
fullness at the waist but much at the feet
The prettiest one l saw was of blue silk
poplin and the goods for the skirt was
shaded, the back portion being blue and
gradually becoming lighter till the upper
portion or the front attained a blush white
hue. the lower part still remaining blue.
Woven In the material were black silk
cords twisted with gold and ascending from
the foot In a sort of wavy ray design, reach
Ing In The back half way up the skirt ard
being much lower In front. These rays
encircled the entire skirt at intervals Of
about an inch. This idea will be carried
out In endless variations of coloring and
foot designs. The effect produced by the
shading is beautiful. The body will be
shaded in the same manner, the lighter
part being reserved for the upper portion of
the sleeves and body and darkening as 1t
reaches the waist and wrists.
Here is a description of a dem.-saison
toilette made in the advance styles always
used for these wool gowns made to wear
on cool days in the latter part of summer
and through the autumn. The material
of this gown is a blue cloth Of very ligh.
weight The hndtca
rounded grille both back and 'front.' Of
orange silk. This is one of the most re-
cent. and consequently one Of the smartest
combinations of color. The remainder
Of the bodice is tight-fitting, back and
front, and tucked in front to Just below the
bust lire; the sleeves long and t!ght-fitting
and coming in TO point at the knuckles,
bearing at the shoulder three deep ap-
piled tucks of orange silks. The skirt also
rejoined in three of these applied tucks of
taffeta A half long cape of the CLOTH
with high faring collar. and the entire edge
having a shaped founce, made this very
swell toilette. OF course the cape was
lined with the orange taffeta.
A new idea In handkerchiefs is to sell
them in series Of seven. one for each day in
the week; the name of each is embroidered
AL WHlte vi Inherently COlOreQ CamDrlC Tor
each day.
Bright colored silks are used to embroider
small flowers. such as violets. and daisies.
on white cambria handkerchiefs.
The new trimmings show conclusiyely
that plain goods will be the vogue of the
future for some time to come. The promi-
nent feature of these is that they will afford
the necessary color to the sober hues of the
plain materials on which they are to be
applied.
Passamenter!es have airy open designs.
Chenille effects and brilliant colorngs in
spangles, beads and tinsel. In garnitures
the fronts in black net are much in ev,.
dence, with floral. spray and bow knot pat
terms showing jewel, pearl cabochons,
steel. aluminium and gilt thread, beads.
plain and iridescent, spangles, motifs in
mousseline and gold net. appliqued on the
black and richly shaded chenille for flow
ers and leaves.
Gilt and silver spiral wire and aluminium
spangles are literally used. Flowers in
silk embroidery are raised by padding and
covered with gold netting. Violet, light
green and turquoise colors are prominent.