The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1898-06-10
City of Santiago de Cuba is Fascin-
atingly Rich in Historical
Associations.
FULL OF DIRT AND FILTH
Which the Natives Don't Mind and Which Visitors
Soon Get Used to Seeing Headquarters
For LaZiness and Unthrift

| such times stout cargadores turn an
: honest penny, standing knee-deep in the
puddles and ''toiing" the citizens across
on their shoulders. The city might easily
have an inexhaustTbIe supply of pure
7 water. if only there were sufficient enter
prise among the people to cause it 10 be
brought in pipes from the neighboring
hills. There has always been much suf-
fering and ill-health resulting from this
prime necessity being absent. yet no steps
have ever been taken TO inaugurate a sys-
TEN of waterworks.
A brief visit will not give the traveller
true idea of Santiago; one must remain
long enough to get en- rapport with the
spirit of the place in order TO understand
and appreciate II. The first impression
gained from its tumble-down buildings
and its rough, neglected streets, hacked
gamins, Astounding poverty, lean ours and
frightfUlly abused mules and horses, is
by no means favorable-even 10 lovers OF
the quaint and antique. But after you
have become better acquainted with its
hosptable people. and have seen the in
terror Of some OF its casas-which were
buff full century before the first
Dutchman had set up a house upon Man
haitian Island-you discover the charm of
the rare old place and find yourself in
love with it in spite of its many short
comings. The finest mansions are con-
fined to no particular locality but are
scattered around haphazard. and are as
likely to be found sandwicher between
negro shanties or commercial warehouses
as anywhere else. They are all of the or
der of architecture which the Moors
brought into the Tberian peninsula-goEv
and large, with enormous windows reach
ing from roof to pavement and having
iron gratings before them; floors of tiles.
square bricks or blocks of marble, and in
ner courtyard with lines and pomegran-
ates growing around a central fountain.
Toilsome ard dirty though they are.
the streets of Santiago never cease to in
tereset; they have such curious signs
stretching across them or protrudlng over
the narrow sidewalks, and the commodi-
ties exposed for sale are to US so strange
and often ludicrpus. The shop fronts are
all open, and inside we see clerks in their
shirt-sieeYes flirting with mulattO girls
over gay-colored calicoes and gaudy rib
bons- Ladies Of the aristocracy never
visit the shops, but buy what they re
qUire from samples, through their ser
wants. Fat and comfortable negresses.
with enormous earrings and gorgeous tur-
bans. compared to which jacobs coat
would be a coIorous affair. squat on the
ground at the street corners. with baskets
of ''dulcies" (sweet meats. fruits and
boiled yams to sell. Half way up the hill
is the main plaza, adorned with statues
and thickly set with trees and benches.
The military band plays here on certain
evenings Of the week, when, according TO
the universal Gust tom of Spanish-Amerfca
every turns out to see and be seen. The /
la!ies in their newest gowns. mostly bare
headed and many with bare shoulders and /
arms glittering with jewels. promenade in |
pairs round and round the plaza. while I
gallants Sine the walk in triple rows /
looking on with more or less silent adj /
and the less fashionable portion /
Of the population observe the beauty /
show at a respectful distance; or, rather /
this is what they used to do. They kept /
It UP bravely until few weeks ago: but /
now, between hunger and anxiety as 10 /
the fate of Santiago with the American .
feet in front and the insurgents behind.
the plaza is deserted, except IS q con-
venient dying place for the starving recon
bove the plaza rises the great cathedral.
the largest in Cuba, with It's double towers
and facade Of porous stone which gives
t a singularly notified and crum bling ap-
Dearance. L IS Of the usual Spanish aren't
lecture. with an espanalade IN front, It's
extremely simple interior adorned with
Of paper flowers and old Span
81 paintings. The several other churches
are al small and delapidated and within
heir sombre walls one seems TO have
stepped back into the 18TH century. for the
oul air and muscy odors seem to hare
,een imprisoned at lease four centuries.
But is Santiago sanctuaries are somewhat
,ehind the times. the saioops and club
louses are certainly up 10 date. and IN
-couuta5iy numerous for a population for
population Of only 9. 90 There are six
casinos" OF club houses. some OK them
.t-ed up with surprising maguiAcence-
marble floors, cafes. salons de oliiares.
eading rooms. dancing parsors and ali
ccessores. NJ Span5zh-Auerscan town
z any SIZE IS destitute q these snti-do-
nestle institutions. Whatever else e may
sck where the male population may pass
he evenings and get nd q thelr surplus
ash There appears % BE- no skeleton /
oucealed IN -helr gildei closets. ho-vever.
y the interior arrangements % the
yeEest cluo houses are expoeed % tae
avx q "a zzrrz-5- -n~or.r1 r~a grated !
5n55ws. whsch extend from Hoor 20
siIIag. entirely devoid q sfales Of
,reens
Passng along the Frsncipa1 stress. one =
struck by me al-ipGoi:y and gaudlnees
the drinking sa1ooas. especially II the
'ening. when they are azzz,ing - be-
I'D. with ;asir Lg4s-s amt glasses ard .
'.ors1 A7uors. tae.r marie tables q
DIVIDED win ca-5-7laye-s. each zgta a =
as & Ms 9avor.te t.p9se ~ rs essow =
at ons eo.15-n seen drunken man ~ r
laa The azsves drink often. bat azht.y 81
sid ire E.a - Ehsch rasY are assa5e-es a.
lsf ~ eKcsptloaaliy rsre. or else toe O
mate rs,ae-z q comparatively nen-ta- 81
xleatlar -
Tns upper streets = the tgzn are ers- -
grower saaa riszse osz- sas iaszl-x
z % re1ca re cress y ghs hf.-. - whose p
~ gre rltF sui.- ysa r-us. rr-eas z,
ye-zl ard aEsss loe5 - she a1-ree e
ere poorer ard clr.1er Claasss whe-e q
-5g-te-f aaes are hes1 ~ - rhs wa- 81
= Eraftags. s1ss yosuEssers. ,s-seias.T Z. =.
g suits t5sT ssre scru. fsEssw yoa Beg -
= t0r csa.2y&s- Bzs whAa tAs al1l-ts2 -