davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

gowns, while, drap dtet6. Scotch wool plaids,
ali popular materials; The new vefyeteens are
SC, soft and fine and come in such beautiful
with a colored sash OF soft silk and a guimpe
Of tucked silk or lace yelyeteen Is very pretty.
made with a circular do9ncs not Very daring
on the edge; The little bodice IL plain in the
Bsrtba and edllf fun ,n in front; down With sro s9me tb sort Gso Of
Gceordio Cn-ni frfHi!su o OF silk ito mate Il 1' the
sash are an extremely pretty finish i.,fo for the
gowns Which have no sash. This Idea Is shown
In one Of the illustrations, which is carried out
The Thesy use ss'H 81 'i small H"f hsaliE.ro9%uhad white te'n pearl but.
lar finish around the neck may be cut out in bat
Element SQUARES, lined with silk in a contrast.
one come corner sV With fa thr eei iitt ieq pearl Button buttons eaS The Ss
effect is simple. but exceedingly pretty.
A cashmere gown for an older girl shows the
and a tucked vest OF silk, forming Il double frill
down the front. A dark red cashmere. trimmed
silk. Frills of ribbon trim another gown with
9 silk yoke. tucked in groups and arranged to
used very prettily for vests and finish. gem
orally In the plain wool gowns, and plain silks
In B slaE ra and harrow nTim SS" Te ~ snG rI R,fRsa RS STe very
much used, and SO are the tiny frills OF satin
silk gowns, are the thing for party dresses,
and white silks with tiny stripes Q, satin and
dainty rosebuds are very desirable. Small
bengalines..
0pe little froek In the illustration Is In plain
thin white silk. A pretty model in striped silk
has a tucked yoke, a V Of velvet beginning at
being outlined with frllls OF lace which extend
over the shoulders. A pointed collar Of velvet
turning down around the yoke is a pretty finish.
and this Is sometimes edged with very narrow
cream applique. Pale blue, silk gowns with a
white silk sash and belt and a tucked yoke of
white silk are extremely dainty.
Rather large velvet hats with soft brims and
crowns. trimmed simply with n bunch OF teath-
ers and a knot OF ribbon. seem to be the pre-
yailing style for anything but school wear. In
felt, the beehive crown with broad brim Is very
pretty trimmed with satin ribbon,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
STRAIGHT TIPS ON DRY GOODS.
An Investigation In the Shopping District
Made by a Policeman's Wife.

An investigation In the Shopping District
Made by n Policeman's Wife.
You won't have to go as far as the race
tracks II you want to find a tout" said a police
man who had lately been transferred to the
shopping district. There's lots OF them here
on this new post Of mine.
when j first came on the post l saw there
was something going on. but / didn't have the
first ghost Of an idea of what was up. At first
when l watched them working the crowds in
front OF the big windows at the big stores. I
kept both eyes wide open. because / was afraid
of pickpockets, Butthere were no complaints. so
itwasntthat. 1 never could get near enough to
get onto the game, for what show has a man to
get into IA crowd Of women looking at a new
style OF something to wear? 1t kept me guess
ing until l was totally tired. 1t was always In
the very front row Of the crowd. smack up
against the glass ofthe windows. One woman
would be looking at something that was 81 30
a yard marked down from 81. IL to clear 1t out.
Then the woman who was standing next to her
in the crowd would begin talking with her, and
before you'd know II they'd be chatting at a
great rate. And always l could SEQ one woman
give the other a card or write something on q
slip'of paper.
AT last / got so worked up about it that 1
asked my wife TO find 1t out for me. Before she
would agree she said she had To be staked /:
that no man that was really Il mar would ask
his wife to go where there was shopping going
on just Sos he could satisfy his own curiosity.
or course. what she says goes, and il did seem
reasonable. So she got all 1 had by me-avail-
able assets. you know-and she anne down TO
my post to look at the bargains. 1t was like
this intercollegiate football, the way she, got
into the biggest crowd there was on the whole
block. l saw the beginning Of the disturbance.
just what you may call the fringcs OF the strug-
gle. and when neXt | caught sight of her she
was up against the glass In the very front row.
She looked 80 hard l was afraid she'd forgotten
what she was there for. for she had money TO
blow in and that was enough TO put her of
every other track. But let me tell you, speak
ing as IL might be confidentially, my wife's all
right. While she seemed 10 be putting all her
mind on them lovely bargains. every ono OF
them marked down 80 hard that II must have
gone o long way TO wear out the brush they do
that marking with. while you'd think she
hadn't an. idea apart from figuring out how
many yards she'd need for a skirt out Of that
goods, she, was working out that game that
had puzzled me SO.
1T wasn't long hefore a woman alongside OF
her said something, and then they were talk
ing at a great rate. and then there was a card
for my wife. After a while she worked out OF
this crowd and went down the block and got
into another crowd. whore the same thing har-
seemed there was one OF these. women work
ing the crowd. They kept shifting. these Wo-
men did; th4Y'd stop a little while In one
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
THE NEW YORK COOKING SCHOOL.
Busy Times IN the Ninth Floor of the
United Charities Building.

Busy Times on the Ninth Floor of the
United Charities Building.
Eyes. I cooked the whole THANKSGIVING din-
ner and it vas a great success. too"
The speaker was a fair-haired girl and the
place the ninth floor at the United Charities
building at Fourth avenue and Twenty-flrst
street. Twelve happy-faced girls sat at the
long table slipping tomato SOUP which, they had
Just prepared. The soup had an appetizing
odor and the bright-faced amateur cooks
chatted merrily between the spoonfuls. They
were evidently the kind of girls who are
busy all day in shons or stores and we're max
Ing the most OF their evening OF relaxation at
the cooking school.
This is very weIl-seasoned soup. I can tell
you" exclaimed one girl. The others agreed.
please tell Miss cambridge we're awfully
sorry she couldn't be here tonight" spoke up
a lark haired girl. A murmur OF appreciation
spread around the table. evidently at the te-
merity which had voiced the sentiment which
all had felt.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

We're going to give a banquet and invite
Miss cambridge to come and c~riticise. just to
give us a few pointers" spoke up a lively girl
at one end OF the table.
Another murmur Of approval greeted this.
Then. the soup plates having been carefully
removed. attention centred on the second
course. which consisted OF warmed over beet
with potato border, scalloped tomatoes and po-
tato salad with French dressing. Evidently
these dishes were as delicate to the taste as
they were dainty to the eve. for "a comparative
silence reigned for five minutes. 1t was broken
at last by an incident which created another
dark haired assistant teacher in a red velvet
waist had been sitting together on an impro-
v msch bench Per e.. The combined weight was toe
and the seat went down. bringing the blush OF
confusion to the cheek Of the pretty teacher.
80 It went on, too, iii the hour was over. for
work and ;~frolic, in which the two are often
confused! but without apparent detriment to
The New. York Cooking School was founded
In 1876 and Incorporated two years later. In
1887 the school had only one teacher. The
rooms IL The United Charities building. are
H we!' n suited snd 20 the TSrk And s6e furnishings
pert the courses of lessons include classes from
thirty;two different churches, missions, schools
Tor hospital nurses and several classes for out
slders. The school has sent out teachers to
the South. whore successful classes have been
established among the negroes. Practice
classes tor women in plain and fancy COOKING.
Children's classes and classes In invaiids' cook
ing are special features Of the work. Visitors
Wednesday afternoon, at 4 O'Clock.
The cooking school has a long list Of sub
%scribers. among whom are Miss Helen Gould,
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt and others promi-
nent IN the social world as well as In the ranks
OF philanthropists. The present officers OF the
school are: President. Mrs, Theodore b. Bron.
son: Vice-President, Mrs. Henry Fairfield Os-
born TREASURER. Mrs. Linda M. Holt; Secre-
tary. Mrs. James G. Andrews.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
Slim EFFECTS.
Still Another Change in the
Ideals of Fashion.
SKIRTS OF ANATOMICAL FIT.
Chances for Women to Adapt the
Modes to Their Individual Needs.

a Go-Rs-You-Please Season so Far ms FASH
ions Are oncerned-The Latest and
- Most Fashionable skirts Quito Plain,
and the Fitted Fiounce Losing Ground
Development Of the Tunic Princess-The
Cloth Gown with n RedinEots Ono of the
Seasons Favorite Models Noticeable
ChanEe In sleeves-Gowns for Evening
wear-Great variety Produced in Fur
TrimminEs-The Stylish Wraps.
CAPRICE has had her fling at tho winter fash
ions with varied and more or less artistic re-
suits, but Just for the moment the question Of
dress has given way to the more important and
exhausting pursuit OF hunting for Christmas
presents. Something has to be purchased. no
matter how much nervous energy Is consumed
In the chase: and 80 the wheel turns with great
regularity as the years roll around.
Within certain limits this is a sort OF . go-as-
you-please, neutrality-suspicious. season In
modes. for there Is every kind OF coat between
q bolero and a redingote. every conceivable
variety OF trimming. with a greater variety In
skirts than ever. One OF the most telling
secrets OF distinction In dress is some comblna-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

with applications of cream lace. Falling on
either side of this is an outer vest. which may
be of panne embroidered with satin ends in
silk braid. OF plain narrow velvet In any chosen
color. or Of white satin embroidered with silk
In soft colors. The lower portion OF this has
drop buttons on the edge. A narrow scarf Of
cream lace. which is the p~rottiest touch of all.
Grapes around the neck and down on either
side. where 1t passes through two large button
holes worked on each side, leaving n soft end to
fall below. This may vary in length and some-
times is arranged to fall below the waist. The
skirt is trimmed with stitched bands. falling
loose on the lower edge.
Great variety is produced this season with
fur trimmings. which the dressmakers use
abundantly for both cloth and diaphanous even
ing gowns. Pretty. dressy coats have a wide
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
STOPPED Asking QUESTIONS.
A Mo~ther-in-Law's Practical Advice to HeI
SONS Wife.

And il / were you I would never ask him
where he has been II he should come home
very, very late, l had an experience In that
line with his father many years ago. and l
learned then that II I was TO have any respect
for him 1 must never ask him any questions.
and especially when he was late"
This was the admonition OF a mother-in-law
to the new wife of her son. The new wife con-
cluded to make use of it early in the house. and
told 1t TO her husband. The latter caught his
father at the club In Brooklyn andtold 1t as his
mother had told It:
William came In quite late. or early. as you
prefer. / had not slept a wink. ! had worn
out my slippers walking, wandering waiting and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

crowd and then they'd move along to another
one. After my wife had been In n few OF these
crowds ! guess she thought she'd earned her
money, Tor she went INTO one OF the stores and
she put me next It seems It wasn't a game
but business, but things are. that mixed now
adays you can't for the life OF you tell where a
game stops and commercial enterprise begins.
When q woman stops and gets to looking at
alongside OF her Just mentions. In. a lady
like way that she saw some OF the same
goods down the street, and it was 3 cents q
yard chearer or some such thing as that, That
starts them talking, and maybe the first lady
thinks she will goodwin to the other place and
thing. She may want to make sure of the adj
dress. for it's hard TO make your way when, the
place is SO crowded, and then the other lady
happens just by accident to have one of their
cards. which she picked up when she was in
there getting something, They work it mighty
fine and make II seem as natural as you please.
but every one of them women is n tout for the
other shop. Think Of the smartness OF theml
It's like getting n stable tip on what to wear.
And what did my wife get when she was
finding all this out for me ? That's more than
can tell you. She says it's a real bargain. and
It does look good on her. But 1 can't get her to
tell me whether she got 1t where she first saw
it or II she took one OF these tips that she was
investigating for me-"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
CLOTHES.
Fashions for GroWn-Up People Copied in
Miniature for the Young.

MINIATURE TOT the Young.
While the search after children's clothes may
not involve 30 many perplexing difficulties as
1t did some years ago. when pretty gowns were
not SO abundantly supplied by the shops. it is
not a path of roses yet. unless there are I'M
limited means behind the purchaser, for the
prices are we'll up in proportion to the grown
up gowns. New and original ideas In children's
dress are rare indeed. so it is not always a
simple matter to give it the variety in detail
which the little ones demand. Fashions for
older dress in miniature and with modifca-
ton seem to apply, making the beading fea-
ture of the modes so conspicuous that the really
picturesque child is no longer fashionable.
The new gowns, show many an elaborate
touch. in braiding. embroidery, ruches, and
frills Of ribbon. and then there are tailor
gowns al, braided or stitched. made with close
fitting skirts. supplemented by a circular
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

emphasized among theinewest models. is the
guimpe effect made much deeper than ever be-
fore. IL extends well down. dividing the bodice
nearly in half. so that the lower portion is not
much more than II wide corselet belt. Another
significant feature is that the Euimpe or yoke
should extend over the sleeves. forming q mar
row epaulet To give breadth to the shoulders,
now that WE have no fulness at the top OF the
sleeves to give the desired width.
The hiRh-necked gown for evening we ar is
veryimportant in the wardrobe Of the average
woman and the low guimpe Is O great aid In
this special kind Of dress. Among the pretty
gowns of this kind worn at the opera was one
shown in the illustration OF bright red glace
silk trimmed with ruches OF chiffon exactly
matching 1t in color. Three OF these ~enclrcle
tho waist and finish the guimpe neck. also OF
shirred chiffon made transparent like the
sleeves. This gown Is decidedly moro striking
and stylish than it would be II any contrast had
been used in trimming. Another. and much
more elaborate, costume Is of cream lace so
thickly outlined with mauye chenille that 1t re-
quires a second look to see any lace at all. This
forms the bodice. sleeves and upper portion Of
the skirt. the over half being of mauye velvet
In a darker shade.
One OF the new lace coats embellished with
chiffon ruches. which may be OF any color de-
sired. Is the feature OF another dressy costume.
An urn uni model r. 10th has one Of the new
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

thinking only ms a woman can and will. ofcourse
IL was a comforting relief when he did come.
and l had made up my mind that l would not
upbraid him. Never do that unless you are
very sure. II You can cornera man all right.
but II he thinks you only suspect he expands
In importance. SO when William, came up, that
morning, for IL was after 2 O'Clock, dear. l met
But somehow while I was giving him the little
attentions which a man likes. ana ,whlch
! not sEp rsst y9p VII y HAL sIIw eSTi6 give to on my Without SHS; ! Soq ini
cal. l inst asked in a young wife,s solicit9us
way: William. where have you beenP' You
know. II he had rallied at. me. or snapped me
up. as. ] have heard Of men doing at such times,
l think / should haye taken my portion and
which l have always noticed In him: ,.,,
Mary, you wouldn't believe me IL l told
',"of course. dear. you will know and under,
stand later in your life how an appeal OF that
sort will put magnifyingl lenses upon a woman's
S SroS q Eiis M neof an nj r sa3d dh al hOPp e 3 %g as ss ans
liam. II you will only tell me where YOU have
He sat down and lighted q cigar IA deliber-
ately as q man can, and at that hour. too. and
then he shook his head and said. No. Mary
you would had as lief as not. but you are so
suspicious. so full of curiosity:
fell upon my knees, but it was the only
earnestly: William, l will believe ,you; only
trust me to do 30; tell me where you have been.
and promise you 1 will believe every word you
"Then he placed one hand on my head, and
he looked into my face and said: Mary, l
have been occurring to the Young Mems Chris
From that morning until the present, dear.
l have gone on with a mental grabbing hoe,
showed itself l have hit IL. II is the upas plant
In the garden OF domesticity."
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

collar at the back Of fur and revers OF white
panne with cream applique lace, jet and tiny
black net ruches for decoration. Sable. ermine
and chinchilla are the favorite furs for evening
wraps. and the array of fur capes. flchus, col
lars and boas of all sizes and combinations is
bewildering indeed. All sorts of small shoulder
capes are in fashion. capes which reach to the
waist as well. and all kinds and lengths OF coats.
A very odd design in sable shown in the illus
tration has ermine revers and collar facing.
Crystal buttons fasten it in front. A seal cape
trimmed with sable has a yoke and high storm
collar Of green velvet richly embroidered in
gold and colors. Cerise velvet covered with
cream ~guipure forms the yoke in another cane
Of sable. Chinchilla and Persian lamb are an
other and always pretty combination.
Boas are Of varying lengths. trimmed with
many tails, and shaped around the neck so they
can be worn standing, like a thigh collar. or fiat
on the shoulders. II is astonishing how much
these novelties in fur cost. the difference be-
tween a shoulder cape and a fur Jacket being
very slight in some instances. One novelty in
the way OF a boa in sable has a high shirred
sort Of Medici collar Of mauve velvet. lined in
side with ermine. Mink and sealskin, seal and
sable. and seal and chinchilla are all fashion,
able combinations. One very odd cape OF
Alaska sable has a Persian lamb yoke. very
carefully Hbteu anu Hhisheu WIN iulIy Six tallS
on each shoulder. High fur collars. faced on the
inside with fulled cream lace. which continues
Down the front in a jabot or ties like a scarf.
are very becoming. This decoration is used
on the coats, and sometimes q frill Of lace is
added at the wrist.
A little pointed cape meeting the sleeve on
the shoulder. made with long stole ends. is very
stylish. butthere is simply no end TO the novel;
ties In fur. A muff with the head of the animal
at one end and the tail at the other is shown as
new. which it certainly is. but the usual muff
is large and round. with or without row of tails
nnrnsnf The front
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

row epaulet not more than three inches wide.
quite plain. and the sleeve in groups Of corded
tucbs at the top sews on to this. giving the per-
fectly plain effect directly at the shoulder. The
strictly up-to-date collar band. too. is quite
plain. with no frills, points or extra embellish-
ments at the back. and the latest bodice Is said
to be very tight fitting.
All the tendencies of fashion are more and
more toward the slim. plain effects. with
little or no means OF Disgusting any defects Of
figure by outside ~fulness. The bodice, how
ever. Is still the point OF vantage as far as
decoration and variety in artistic design are
concerned, and certainly there was never
greater diversity in the modes OF trimming.
An old but still conspicuous feature. which Is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

Since the weather has taken on its December
chill a now veil has appeared, the laudable
purpose OF which Is to protect the face. 1t is a
black net with very big. close-set silk dots at
the bottom, growing lighter and fewer about
the eyes. Another nice novelty Is the white
narrow turnover neck bands. The embroidery
IL narrow. its edges done in small points, or
scallops or squares. and n touch Of white
against the throat gives light, freshness and
interest to every woman's face.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11
SUPER HAIR

Psinlessly. Destroyed by Electricity: Guaranteed.
BRIGGS. % West 33d Al.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

> When the Christmas shopper purchases n sci.
Of six link buttons Of gold, the inference must
not be that she will necessarily use all six in
her sleeves, but rather that they will fastcn the
now highly ornamented placket hole of her
cloth or satin dress skirt.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

Hot-water bag covers Of eider-down flannel
with ribbon strings at the opening are one of
the inexpensive but useful Christmas gifts.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

cased. as it falls over the skirt proper and.
while religiously tight fitting and close as por-
sible down TO the knee. the fact that 1t Is loose
at the edge and a separate garment from the
skirt gives II a moro graceful effect. 1t requires
a perfect form to be a success and an expert
dressmaker TO master the difficulties Of fitting
IL. The surest way of carrying out this fashion
Is to trim the skirt in the form Of a tunic, and
with a narrow belt at the waist the effect is
very good.
The cloth gown made with a redingote is one
Of the seasons favorites and gains popularity
as the winter advances. The skirt Is cut with
a deep circular founce and the redingote. also
cut circular and quite dose fitting around the
hips. reaches nearly TO the hem Of the skirt at
the back and rounds in front or at one side.
where it ~fastens. The waist portion is inter-
lined with flannel. so that it is quito warm
enough for street wear except in the coolest
weather. Brown seems to boone Of the lead
ing colors among the new gowns. which.
trimmed with bands OF cloth in n much lighter
shade and bands Of sable fur. are very stylish.
The difference between the latest mode in
sleeves and those OF three months ago. to say
nothing Of last season. is very noticeable. 1t is
a simple matter to discriminate. since the
really new sleeve is quite innocent Of any
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

waved bands overlapping one another from the
knees down, and finished with rows of stitch
ing. Double skirts. with one narrow circular
hounce on each one. are another Partisan fancy.
The tunic princess Ia perhaps one Of the most
acceptable forms in which the hips can be in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

Panne velvet is used for waists. and In black
with the usual accessories in trimming II Ia
charming. despite the fact that 1t is said to
wear atrociously.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

force of gravitatlon will permit. and u has one
tuit of piumes tina waves audnciously from q
aigratte on one side. Only. a very
pretty woman should dare to wear II until
some modifying influence has softened its
lines and added to its trimmings.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-12-11

The Trelawny hat Is eccentric and pretty TO
the last degree. II iuts over the face In q point,
or H. as round and small almost as a teacun. IL
Is pinned as1ow down on the forehead as the