Evening star., 1898-10-08
FASHION LETTER

. the harp, has her reason. The woman who
| reads paper on Sanitation in Tenement
| Houses has equally her reason for wear
| ing rich, dark hunters green velvet, spar
| ingly embellished with bright Scotch plaid
| velvet and set off by the smartest of gloves
! and millinery.
Club women are chary of having it known
| that they waste much gray matter on cos
tunes. but an order to aDDear on the pro-
gram results as often as not in an order to
the dressmaker; so that there Is a closer
connection than might be supposed between
| an up-to-date paper on New Theories of
Wagner" and an up-to-date dress of cop
per-red cloth with long copper-red velvet
po.onaise opening over a white satin waist
coat and lace jabot.
Dress and Essay in Harmony.
By subtle magnetism a disquisition on
Manners at the Court of Louis XIV" at
tracts to itself skirt of pewter-gray
face cloth. with a lanky Louis XIV coat of
cucumber-green velvet. whose paste but
tons are properly enormous, and whose tail
Is cut away from the front to flare the
longer and more peaceck-like behind.
There is lot so much reason, apparently,
why In the Sober Society for Political
Study discussion of the constitution Of
the state of New York should bring to the
front one of the best examples of the new
button-in-the- back tailor gown, national
blue in color princess in cut decorated
with scroll designs in darker blue and black
applique; or even one of the SmarteSt black
velvet coats of the season, with white cara
cule vest. embroidered in silver; but it
goes. Find the women who stand up to be
looked at and you find not only the new
est, but the best considered and most ele-
giant dresses of the season.
Ever silce Adile Sultana, betrotLed Of
Abbas Pasha, found no use of her English
education so pressing as letter to her
shopping commissioner to send her "Feath-
Ell SeS; my soul, l want featherses again.
l want featherses of every desolation to-
morrow OF since Grace Greenwood heard
Mary SoTerviile advising Harriet Marti-
reau to dye a certain dress to match a GER
tain shawl. the women of progress, instead
of ignoring "featherses,' have lifted them
to the plane of a fine art, rather than left
them as a vanity.
A beautiful costume that hid away
among the truants al recent club meet
Ing was of Guaranteed uncut velvet COW
cred with black hair lines and crossed by
half-inch bayadere stripes of black velvet.
The skirt was left plain: there were black
satin stock and belt, and a cream lace tie
fell over Guaranteed vest covered with
little ruff1es of black satin ribbon. The
large picture hat of black velvet was trim
med with ostrich plumes, while a wreath
of currant leaves and fruit lay around the
brim.
Stylish Model in Blue.
Another dress that figured on the same
occasion was of Delft blue broadcloth,
WLoSe uetp, SNAPPED HOunCe was covered
with black net heavily appliqued with sill
yer. Above the founce the sheath skirt
was trimmed to the waist with silver cords
forming inverted VS.. The lower part of
the corsage was covered with striped blue
and silver gauze gathered to the waist;
thu upper part showed a square yoke in
crusted with applique like that upon the
skirt and edged with frills of blue satin
ribbon. The hat accompanying this cos
tune was of blue felt with decoration of
silver gauze and black ostrich plumes.
The little note books that are necessary
to clubwoman's peace of mind are often
mounted at present in Russian enamel,
whose varied colors are sometimes SO har-
mcniously repeated in the dress as to sug-
geSt that the entire outfit has been built
around the emblem of Office or dignity
The multi-toned poplins in vogue lend them
selves curiously to this illusion. The efract
Is almost as marked in costume trimmed
with the broad satin and velvet stripes
which so halmoniously combine metallic
blues, reds and browns.
Some of the newest materials for elabo-
rate dresses look as if their makers were
trying to steal march on the designers
of trimmings. Frtnges. appliques and rib
bon insertions are WOVEN into them with
" hat must seem to the fringe and ribbon
men diabolic ingenuity. A dress of this
order in black silk and wool grenadne has
a bayadere stripe of white ribbon with a
fluffy frnged edge cropping out upon thu
SKIRT In most unexpected places.
FiOunces With Narrow Headings.
The skirt, which is not quite so eeI-like
as the models of last month, is edged by
a fiounce whose heading, as upon dresses
of years ago, stands up in an aggressive
little ruffie. This heading is OF white rib
bon with a lace edge, ard 1t Is woven upon
the fabric. The bodice has a full blouse,
which is cut away to show yoke and vest
of tiny ruf1es Of the same lace and ribbon
A black felt hat with trimmings Of white
and turquoise blue Is worn.
rather stately reception dress OF white
broadcloth Is made with long polonaise,
which has fat side paniers in black velvet
and with skirt the bottom of which is cut
out in a Greek fret pattern over a black
velvet iounce. The bodice revers and nigh
Medici collar are faced with white satin
covered with jet applique.