The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1898-07-03

mean time.
No woman probably appreciates how
pretty and graceful she looks when using
a needle. And a woman never looks
awkward, by the way, with her sleeves
rolled up and flour on her arms though
she may appear at a great disadvantage
at a social affair.
The very latest thing in millinery is the
halo" 1t is a large plaque of straw
with the outer edge gathered in Tam
oShanter shape upon small round erin
oline shape. The trimming, placed under
meath instead of on top, is made up of
plumes lying close to the hair. The eff
fact is that of mystic auriole, and blends
well with a full rolling pompadour that
is made to encircle the face.
Fancy a halo about the head of a fair
devotee of the turf Yet 1t IS not alto
gether inappropriate Who does not know
the story of how in olden times piOus
lnnkeepers were wont to hang over their
doors signboard pictures of favOrite
saints. The pictures were eventually fad
ed and washel by sun and rain, until moth
ing remained of the crude painting but the
horseshoe-shaped gilt halo. 1t was this
that gave rise 20 the popular superstition
of luck In a horseshoe hung over the
door.
The careful cult of unconventionallty
began among the smart set in London
some years ago, and IL has been taken up
and propagated by the smart set here.
The most superficial signs of it are the
most harmless. To wear bicycle clothes
| at formal dinner parties, to drive about
Newport without a hat to smoke in a
lady's drawing-room. to garnish ones
speech az all times with backyard slang,
| to describe everything from the weather
to a social function as "rotten''-these are
| the silly, though none the less reprehensi-
! bic, signs OF the truly unconventional per-
son. A far more serious phase of it is
seen in the change that has been introduce
ed in the sphere of social intercourse be-
tween the sexes.
The finest of all the old conventions, says
the New York Evening Post, was that
which imposed upon a man and upon
woman a certain reticence with regard to
various themes and various facts of life.
| This reticence sprang from the respect
which every man was supposed TO feel for
every woman, and from the respect which
every woman was supposed to cherish for
| herself Ii was a part of the slight but
very real barrier which experience had
shown to be essential to protect the wo-
man, and to prevent a brutalzing tenden-
cy in the man. And it is the undermining
of this convention that is to-day a cause
for a very serious apprehension.
Mrs. Mason says in the Century:
special distinction of the American wo-
man does not lie in her intellect or her
! learning. Brilliant gifts and attainments,
to a certain point may, indeed, be eXcep-
tionally frequent; but they have often been
equalled, if not exceeded, In the past. 1t
! lies, rather, in her talent for utilizing
knowledge and adapting it to visible ends.
To a combination of many talents has
been added one to make them all availa-
bic. 1t Is essentially talent for "arriv-
ing" in other words, talent for success,
either with or without intellectual ability
of a high order, and consists largely in
keen insight as to serviceable values. with
a marked facility for catching salient
points and using them to the best advan-
tage. The result is that no woman in the
world has so much versatility, or makes
a little knowledge go so far.
The trailing skirt is undoubtedly the
thing of the moment, and all the cere-
montous day gowns are being made with
distinct trains that lie in heavy folds at
least half foot on the ground. They are
undoubtedly graceful in a room or on
beautifully kept lawn, but to see them in
the street or in the park is distinctly dis
agreeable OF course we all remember the
controversy which everywhere ragged some
years ago about the horrible diseases en-
gendered by gowns which were allowed to
sweep the dirty streets l fear that by the
autumn another crusade will have TO be
raised against their use, for the longtailed
skirt is this summer undoubtedly in"
What a pity il Is that women cannot
understand the beauty and utility of a
long trained gown that is to be worn only
in the house. 1t is always graceful and
invariably becoming to women, be they
short or tall, stout or thin. In the streets,
however the long skirt is an abomination.
The ,oracticaI American saws tbe Neuy
Orleans Times-Democrat, ever anxious to
dig down into the deep heart of things,
has been investigating the nature and
strength of the influence of perfumes and
has reached some disquieting results. DR..
Carlton Simon, a hypnotist threw a pa
tent into hypnotic sleep, in which his
sensitiveness would be nearly doubled
and proceeded TO try the effect of several
wel-known scents upon him. Patchouli,
which in the wide-awake man eXcites only
mild disapproval, threw the patient into
state bordering on congestion of the
brain Al the smell of white rose his
muscles relaxed, and his enervation, if
continued, would have resulted in collapse
and death. Al the scent of edelweiss
which the Swiss peasant call the Glove
flower" he held out his arm for an inn
aginary embrace, and shed kisses on the
empty air Helotrope made him weep;
while the perfume Of musk caused him to
press his hands spasmodically upon his
heart, and scream like a wounded animal
From these experiments our readers may
gather some notion of the effect they are
producing-in less violent degree-upon
their friends They can, moreover, select
their perfume according to the influence
they wish to exercise. Should they wish
10 shed languor around. white rose is the
obvious prescription. If an atmosphere
of picturesque sorrow is desired heliotrope
is the scent. A violent stimulous for the
haldng loved will be supported by a few
drops of musk deity sprnkled upon the
hair But for a good. working, every
day perfume. the feminine vote win be
given for edelweiss.
Two mere men, says the New York Sun.
attended a womens club reception one
afternoon recently, and took seats with
quite supercilious air; but ii was noticed.
| as the programme advanced, and subjects
abstruse and complex We're met and dis
npSad of with COura ga Of oor.-fo.s-.,