The enterprise. [volume] (Wellington, Ohio) 188?-1899, 1898-06-01

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20 to the theatre to amuse themselves
md rest, are buying, selling, speculating,
and there is continual going and COM
ing of brokers, clerks and messenger
boys.
Buying our tickets the next morning
for Madrid, we thus helped to pay the
cost of the war in Cuba, for every rail-
way ticket in Spain is taxed ten per cent.
Less than an hours run from BARGE
Iona comes in sight the srrangest, most
wierdly-forrned mountain have ever
seen or read about -Montserrata.
1t is a collection Of immense cones,
one beside the other, one surmounting
another, in bewildering promiscuity,
making altogether one overwhelming,
gigantic cone composed OF thousands OF
smaller ones. The highest points are
arid and inaccessible as a church steeple,
near the base the points are covered with
pine, oak and mulberry trees.
Here and there are deep abysmal
gorges and awe-inspiring precipices.
What makes this mighty mountain all
the more remarkable is that it stands
isolated like monolith on plain! Who
knows but it is forgotten workshop
of the Great Architect when fabricating
the Giants Causeway.
A Benedictine convent is situated in
one Of the gorges, to which holy spot the
guide book says $4,000 pilgrims come
annually. The time to study this sim
gular mountain was all too short, but
Rennyson insisted that we should go
straight to Madrid, and suggested that
we register at the hotel as from Berlin.
The second class cars in Spain have
no compartments, SO you can see every
body in them. Our car was nearly al
ways full, forty persons, men, women
and children; priests, monks, servants,
army officers, merchants, commercial
travellers, actors, actresses, secret police.
We had leisure for study, meditation and
prayer. All the men and some Of the
women smoked. The cigarette in Spain
takes the place of letter of introduc-
ton. The first thing traveller in Spain
does is to hand around the cigarillos to
all his neighbors, acceptance is impera-
tive, rejection is considered impolite.
The Spaniard is full Of winning polite
phrases, and if you should happen to say
to him that you admire his cigarette case,
his cane or his wife, the object OF admira-
ton is offered you with a phrase, "a la
disposition de listed" "You have a
very handsome ring" (say beautiful
brilliant worth $1,000 he slips the ring
off his finger and hands it to you without
hesitancy.
This liberality, however, must not be
regarded as earnest. He knows that yor
as well-bred gentleman cannot, will
not retain the ring, the cane, the wife
He would after all his winning ways, b.
capable of using force to wrest his prop
erty from you, if necessary.
l believe the Spaniards are the great
est smokers in the world, and yet not
stalk Of tobacco is allowed to be grow
in all the Kingdom. Some Spaniard
smoke continually all the day, and hav
often seen both ladies and gentlemel
smoke at table d'hote, after the SOU
and SO on between courses. Cigars il
Spanish are puros, and cigarettes cigar
illos | was astonished at the facilit
with which the Spaniardlrolls a cigarette
! One Of my neighbors, as we were jolt
> ing along-railroads in Spain are atroc
iously rough-reached his pocket wit
his left hand, fshed out cigarette papeI
detached the delicate leaf, dipped agaiI
brought forth the tobacco, distributed
evenly in the paper, rolled it on his kne
d thus making handsome cigarette an
> having used but one hand; He told m
he had obtained this facility on horse
back.
The people at the stations were pc
e petual study-to us. Some had hanc
e kerchief in bright colors wound roun
n the head like turban, and allowing II
S Struggling hair to escape above and b
e low, Instead Of the mantle, some wol