The times., 1898-11-20

goods continue TO glitter with spangles
and show in addition an elaborate deco
ration of narrow bands of bright raveled
silk, which is really liliputian fringe.
Dowagers who frequent bathrooms display
their diamonds to advantage with their
gowns of mirage velvet, changeable and
deceptive goods, that is also much used
for decorative addition on cloth suits.
When made up in calling gowns some
of these velvet skirts are buttoned up
the front from waist TO hem, and as &C.
centric as this may sound, the result is
interesting and decorative. Not few
very luxurious skating dresses, made to
button up the front thus, are edged with
fur. and the upper half is cut in the form
of the Russian COssack's coat, with enor-
mously long detachable fur cuffs. These
cuffs in reality are muffs, when pulled
down over the hand.
Paris has not yet exhausted the pos
sibilities of the spangle as an ornament,
for the loveliest wedding dress yet seen
was made in Paris for the Duke of Man.
chester's bride, and consists of white sat-
in overworked In the most gloriously
opalescent shell sequins interspersed with
pearls. For the Duchess of Hamilton
whose daughter was recently married. a
beautiful fawn colored cloth was made
on the Rue de la Paix and adorned with
not laid on fiat, but were caught down
on one side and went to form the clusters
of grapes in vine embroidery that overran
skirt and waist.
A similar gown In oyster gray satin has
been sent to New York in the wedding
wardrobe of the young woman who is to
wed the BARONESS de Selliere's son, and
with 1t, what in feminine evrnacular is
known as "a duck of a bonnet" 1t con-
sists of two pearl grey tule roses, each
containing fifty huge petals and every
petal edged with silver spangles. Where
these two giant blossoms come together
tall gray osprey spouts high, and when
pinned on top an airily pompadoured
head, this is dignified by the name of a
theater bonnet. Two wings and knot
of velvet also assumes this name while a
certain amount of interest centers in the
hats that have haring brims made half
of jet and half of closely massed roses,
and as often as not such hats have
crowns made of embroidered and per-
forated leather.
From time to time leather is taken
very seriously as an ornamentation by
dressmakers and miIliners put never has
| 1t played as leading a role as this VIM
ter. 1t is not the hide of anything
| tougher than a cat or a kid that the
modistes use, though they do say the new
embroidered vests, cuffs, belts, collars,
ETC., are made of fawn skins, tanned and
dressed by the Indians. Whatever animal
does supply the skin is matter of small
moment when one considers the beauty
of a soft black leather coat vest beauti-
fully worked in steel beads, or a snow
white glace leather carriage coat offset
with wonderful embroidery in brown and
turquoise silk and garnished with lace
and sable down the front A deal of
leather is applied on dresses as an open
worked embroidered goods, rancifully cut
out to show q brilliant silk or velvet be-
meath. Black suede thickly worked with
dull black beads and trimmed with lynx
forms the most modish mourning coat or
cape it is possible to procure
The type of house gown that covers all
the exactions of the feminine heart ac-
companies the text of this week in two
tones of brown. The cloth is a rough
| zibiline in leaf brown, veined in the most
delicate checks of lilac, while braid of
| mixed lilac and brown curls gracefully
| about the edges of waist and skirt. The
| deepest resin brown velvet forms the
f1ounce on the skirt, the tails of the
basque, the cuffs and the collar facing,
| and of pale lilac liberty silk the vest and
| cravat are formed.
Green is the dominant tone In the dinner
| toilet displayed, though the dress itself Is
pearl gray satin cloth. Green spangles
edge the Bourbon founces of the skirt,
follow the rocco patterns of embroidery
on the hips and at the foot and glitter on
| the bodice. These are the new pearl
shell spangles colored to give out delight
| full opalescent sea green tones and velvet
| to exactly match the spangles fills the
top Of the bodice and encircles the waist.