davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
ment shall be collected Of each member to pay

ment shall be collected of each member to pay
such premiums.
Members not having paid their semf-annual
dues by Jan. 10 and July 10 respectively of
each year shall forfeit their membership.
Should q member as such be cancelled, then
the servant or servants who may have been
placed with the aforesaid member will forfeit
all privileges offered by the society. unless she
leaves such employment.
Obstinate servants or those who wilfully
neglect their duties and by their conduct give
cause for their employers well-founded COM
plant, will not be recommended again by the
society II they relapse into the same fault. In
addition, they will lose all privileges.
Members who, after unjust treatment OF
servants supplied to them, do not rectify their
conduct. or at least justify the same. will be ex-
PEELED by the society.
" Every complainant has q right to insist
upon an Immediate investigation. and thedi-
rectors are pound to investigate such COM
plants at once. All complaints are to be made
in writing or orally to the Secretary at the So
ciety's office. Both parties, the employer and
the employee. shall submit to the decision Of
the President"
The German Housewives first organized in
1895. In 1897. after an experience OF two
years. they found the scheme sufficiently en-
couraging in its results to justify them in in
cooperating the society. The annual meeting
will be held soon. when the first reports will be
made. These reports ought to be of interest
to plenty of women who are not German
housewives, but who have. at least. houses aud
troubles of their own.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

ting peplum overdress Of silk embroidered
with white chenille and silver seQuins fallspar-
TALLY over the ~lounce, and the bodice IL OF lace
and chiffon over silk. with an embroidered
band OF silk around the neck. The touch OF
color Is q belt and long sash ends OF pale green
crepe de chine.
Evening sleeves are very short. a sort ola COM
promise between a real sleeve and none at all.
or made in elbow lengths quite plain at the
top and finished with frills OF lace or mousseline
de sole. This was q popular sleeve whom
fashion favored us with It some years ago. int
no doubt It will Gust the long transparent va
riety from favor among strictly evening
Imported gowns have round waists with the
belt finish and round decollete necks. Guimpe
attachments are a feature of some OF the new
evening dresses which adds much to their use
~fulness.
White. as usual. has the lead. but one OF the
novel ideas Of color is the use Of gray. biscuit
or any neutral tint. in transparent material
over white satin. Silk gauze is the most efrec-
tive fabric. and white applique lace with numer-
GUS shirrings and frills is the trimming. Gray
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
cRUsApE AeArxsr CRADLES.

Physicians object TO Rocking Babie,-Fu.
ture Cradles Likely to Be Electric.
"The hand that rocks the cradle is the hama
that rules the world" was a very pretty semi.
ment in it's day. Even now orators who ara
not quite up to date on the ethics OF child chi,
ture do q little soaring along this line. They
don't know that well-reeulated mothers hayo
started q crusade against cradle rocking, and
that there is,a stigma on the hand which per.
sists in jogging the baby.
Apparently the electricians did not know
this. either. for they have invented a cradle
fond mother has to do is TO put the plug in thS
switchboard. and the cradle will rock until thS
II some one doesn't do It before that. Cons",.
q%uently. the. prospects are that II the cradles Of
the world do 60 on swinging the hand thai
rocks them will be that Of the electrician. If,
that case. may be the hand that rocks the crndlS
will continue, TO bethe one that rules the world,
but there will scarcely be so much s%entlmon
about Il.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

creamlaes bow andjhbot adorn Tho front. Atur-
duolse blue silk bodice encirclod with scalloped
groups Of corded stitching has q tucked vest Of
the same silk and embroidered reycrs turned
back above q short vest OF white velvet. on
which are crystal buttons. Another blouse Of
heliotrope silk Is trimmed with ivory euipure
and a deeper shade Of velvet. Yoke. front. aud
tops OF the sleeves are Of white chiffon we'll
covered with applications Of lace. A simple
but stylish model In blue silk shows stitched
bands OF white satin and crystal buttons. "A
white silk spotted with black. with tucked
sleeves. has q tucked white chiffon vest and a
Auish OF embroidery In black. white and pale
blue Town the front.
One Of the prettiest dressy models among
the imported gowns n mad in OF Z the new
ower-b ordered silks. gray. spotted. with white.
The peplum overdress is arranged in points so
the border trims the edge, which is finished
with a band Of fur. and also encirclos the hips.
The bordering is also brought out effectively
on the bodice with fur-trlmmed edges.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

part of the cape below this being a deep gath
cred founce. graduating narrowly UP the front.
The long cloak illustrated is in black satin
embroidered with let and chenille and trimmed
with fur. A white chiffon plating extends
down either side OF the front. A cape of white
satin trimmed wit b lace frills and blue fox is
refined. and still al tother Of gray velvet shows
revers and a band cf erimfne and a deep.frill
OF yellow lace over chiffon.
There Is a rumor Mat the newest andmos
chic OF all the evening" cloaks are made of plain
cloth and double ca Shmere. without a bit Of
jewelled embroidery. Very light colors are
used. being made in he popular shape. round
ing up to the neck, q nd finished with circular
founces OF cloth simply cut and left with the
raw edges. Surely any reaction from all these
extravagant varieties aof decoration is a well
come change.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
oEvrnAL ARK sKrrCHne PERMITS.
Good All tho Year Rounu-Special PhotoR-
raphers' Permits Limited in Time.

Good All the Year R-ounu-special PhotoE-
raphers' Permits Limited in Ttme.
THE Sun published last Sunday the wall OF
an art student who had met with difficulties In
an attempt to sketch in Central Park. Upon
the presentation of proper credentials the artist
had obtained from the Park authorities a
sketching permit, but when he attempted TO
make use OF this permit the policeman In
charge Of the spot selected for the sketch In
terfered. He declared that no permit Tor
sketchinR was valid unless renewed on the day
OF It's presentation and unless 1t expressly
specified the particular spot whore the work
was to be done.
Naturally such regulations, from an artistic
point Of view. would be utterly absurd. The
difficulty OF obtaining q certain effect OF atmos-
phere and light. and the rapidly with which
that effect dissolves. mako 1t necessary Tor an
artist to seize his opportunity the moment 1t
occurs instead OF wasting time in pursuitof
Park officials with powers of permit renewing.
The artist who ran foul OF what appeared to
be a ridiculous Park regulation. complained
bitterly. and felt sadly abused. but 1t seems
that the policeman. and not the Park Depart
ment. is responsible for the heartless suppress
sion OF a masterpiece. Behind the policeman is
that hardened malefactor. the camera. Art ex-
aminations not being required of candidates
for the police force. fine art distinctions escape
the. guardians. OF. the law. All persons who
make pictures look alike to the average police
man. and the conscientious patrolman, concern
ed in the case under discussion. was, evidently,
trying to enforce certain recent. rules made
with reference to photography in. the Park.
Probably the aggrieved artist will consider
that insult has been added to injury. when he
knows that he was classed with camera car
rlers. but that was the case. and. even against
photographers, Park rules are. by no means. 80
severe as the officers Interpretation Of them.
The Secretary OF the Park Board, when asked
about this matter OF sketching permits, made
emphatic remarks about policemen who do not
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
understand orders given in plain English.

understand orders given in plain English.
mo, change. has been made, by the Park
officials in the form or scope OF sketching per-
m Rens to T pRf st Srs iSfae snd d05 pt tbs current 9 reS ssisndbalT
a aih5d a1fahts Il IS DESIRED rec to en make aReu the 3 PERMITS Il
them out OF the hands of those who simply
wish to picnic in the name OF art.
The fact that certain new rules have been
made in relation to permits for photographers
should not have caused the slightest CONFUSION
In any Intelligent mind. General permits for
a rule which was made when the use OF the
camera was a mystic art and practiced solely
by professionals. It was then proper and even
necessarily 70 control photographing in the Park
by permit, the purpose Of this control being the
P t%PesI WhicS Or yi taS 99r q refgP6 81 to of tbe sit garh pic
when the public became generally addicted
to the use OF the camera the situation was al
graphs In Central Park was abolished. In the
OF q camera to take ont a permit before he
could ramble with the crowd and take snap
shots Of the beauties Of the Park. In the
permit any distinguishing privileges on the
lawns. &c., to the multitude, OF camera users
ination against those who do not take pictures.
SO 1t was decided to allow Dhotographers to
general public. There are Photographers who
desire TO do better and more ambitious work
than the mob of camera owners. For them
them. the work to be done and the time must
be specified. as otherwise they would be gem
homer. They are seldom issued for 80 short a
time as a single day, though sometimes that is
require the permit for O longer period.
Now. there is the situation, In regard to
photoEraphing in. the Park. Those are evil
mind and ridiculously mlsinterpreted. 1 re-
peat that no changes have been made In re-
no hampering rules In regard to sketching;
and, in any event, a policeman has no %instruc-
lions and no right to &C. behind me race OF any
and manner Of its use"
Then the Secretary Of the Park Board dropped
his official dignity and became human.
Il wish / had the number OF. the policeman
would have brought balm TO the wounded feel
ings OF the injured artist.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

Evening cloaks vie with the OWL for first
place ON the list OF extravagant apparel. and
they certainly are not lacking in any Of the
qualities which go to make up elaborate effect
Lace Is embroidered in colors and beaded in
various designs for the opera cloak. where it
appears in deep 1ounces'o or entirely covers the
part around the shoulders. Nearly all the
evening wraps have some sort of a hounce.
usually circular in shape, aud fur'is used for
the trimming.
Embroidery on satin and velvet is'very much
in evidence. A full length cloak is asuccession
OF rufles Of Chantilly lace over mauve taffeta.
alternating with deep friIls OF mauve velvet.
well covered with embroidery. Gray mirror
velvet and gray caracul form another cloak. and
the velvet is almost covered with gray chenille
embroidery. Agreen velvet cape. three-quar-
ter length. is entirely covered around the
shoulders with embroidered cream lace. the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
HER EVENING GOWN
E1EsVsgsnt Decoration Rules
in Fashions Realm.
NO LIMIT TO TRIMMING.
Evening ClOaks Also Elaborate
in AdOrnment.

sold and Silver s%panEles and Crystal and
Imitation Jewell Much Used in Decora-
tion-A Pretty Effect in Evening Dress
Comss from Wearing Several Trnnspar-
sut s~hirts-sleeves for Evening Gowns
Are short-whits n Favorito Color for
ElnBorats Tr~oatment-New Gowns Out
line the Figure NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
Waists In Demand Evening CioAks.
To be up to date m dress without giving the
subject laborlous thought or spending o small
fortune on one seasons outfit is an impossi-
bility in those days when fashions wheel
moves 10 rapidly that we must strain every
nerve 10 keep mp the pace. Some degree of
fashion. in its latest form. is one Of woman's
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

The next combination Is pale blue liberty
silk and cream net spotted with blue chenille
moons. A simple but very elegant white lace
gown Is made over. white satin and trimmed
with narrow bias bands Of violet velvet, lux
euil cream lace edged with q and OF jetted
lace is the trimming on the bodice OF another
blue silk gown A SNOWY bodice TO help out
the usefulness OF the black silk skirt is OF
black net covered with jet sequins. sewed or
very closely together and finished with a scroll
band OF pink velvet well covered with en-
broidery. The long sleeves are Of rose pink
chiffon crossed with tiny bands OF jet and gold
trimming. theatre bodice OF lace combined
with chiffon. forming the vest and a partof the
sleeves. IL fastened across the front with black
velvet bows.
Odd waists for semi-dress occasions areWery.
much In demand. and here are some OF the
many and varied models: One in pale pink
satin has q vest Of tucked white silk and a
bolero front outlined With band Of white satin
embEoldeTed With pink six and eheniis. =
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
PREMIUMS FOR SERVANTS.


A Servant who stays UninterruptedIy Ten
Years with a Member of tho Society Gets
9l00i Five Years, g45t Three Yenrs, $50
Two Years, o2o-Rules Of the Society.
There was an article in THE SuE a few weoks
ago about German housewives societies
abroad. It appears that there is such q society
much nearer homo. In fact, New York has a
similar organization OF its own. Over the door
at l. East Fifty-nlnth street There is q large
Align which rends:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

Alaska sable in the form of a collar, with long
stole ends and plenty of tails for trimming. ID
one of the fashionable novelties in fur which is
not beyond the price OF the average woman.
II she can have a rnufr with frilled ends to
match. so much the b stter.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

tulle gowns are made over white satin with in
sertionst of cream lace around the skirt above
the ruf1es Of tulle which cover the lower half.
Insertions OF lace encircle the bodice and a frill
OF tulle finishes the neck. One very dressy
French model is carried out in pale blue chiffon
with wide cream lace insertion alternating with
gathered bands of chifon the entire length Of
the skirt.
One OF the most noticeable features OF the new
evening gown Is the harmonious way In which
1t outlines the figure. The skirt. OF course. fits
the hips very closely. aud the bodice has very
little il any fulness in front. The material Is
put on to the lining with some %fulness. but it Is
drawn in close to the figure. d.
Black and white combination gowns for even
ing wear are more charming than ever. Black
point d'esprit with black chantilly forms one
stylish dress made over white satin. The
lower half Of the skirt is q circular founce Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

pioSh hiiOh 10 WV ""NN
The first item of fresh. importance in mate
rails is the foulard sergCh which is beautiful be-
yond the capacity OF any ordinary vocabulary,
and then como the crepe Il cloths. silks warrant
cd and proven uncrus liable. and finally the
spotted gooda You may object or openly war
against spots. but you might as well try to
crush out the sunshine or forbid the flower TO
bloom. Spots are reRniHit and have broken
forth everywhere. Silks. ' elvets. satins, cloths.
hannels. chiffons. even bri dial wells are spotted.
Not all spots are round however; TO alleviate
any danger of monotony, we have pirdseyes OF
from the surface, sometimes In the form OF
tiny cones.
strappings OF black silk. with a narrow knot
ted braid on either edge. are one OF the modish
trimmings for a cloth gown; also applique de-
signs of white cloth. outlined with an EN-.
the gown to Which they ate applied.
Dressmakers give assurances all along the
line that velvet gowns will command as great
popularity as last year. Il touch or two will
bring them quite up to u mode OF the mo-
ment. and those who are having new and very
rich gowns made this year use velvet bright
ened by large embroidered dots done in a con-
trasting shade. Some OF the new costumes for
street wear consist OF q plain or dotted black
y pessib s9s SIs W1t on ie ian Scru VEN esTSn b d2sSrsf o. TN;
edged or an over, and COM bin ed with lace. while
the skirt Is OF cloth matching the rest In color.
Mix a few drops OF sweet|otl with an equal
quantity OF black ink and apply the mixture 70
black kid gloves where the outer surface is
rubbed on.
The new silk petticoat whB;h can have any
place among the new fashions must be fitted
as carefully as the skirt which covers Il. made
almost as long. and quite plain ABOUT the hlps.
The new golf skirt is longa,r than the one
worn last SEASON. and is usually made OF
double faced cloth with gore4l front and cir
cular sides.
Red. In the new shade whichShas q very pinky
tinKa. lie very much the fashion. IL Ii m
thing between a scarlet and q crimson. and
| cloth gowns IA this tint, With Aplatn stitching
loE trimming, are YeTy SWetL
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

earring for your health, and study
ing simple, everyday economy,
YOU will see to it that no baking pow
der but the Royal enters your kitchen.
The Iow-grade, cheap powders contain
alum and lime and injuriouSly affect
the stomach and kidneys.
ROYAL BAKING POWDER co, NEW Yoak.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
ron WOMEN

Ladies having legal business should call LADIES
g ASSOCIATION, IBs 9Th av. Wills. eonOc-
tons. moFtsage-. eatAtea mARAesdj lawyers men Of
geographically,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

There are now shell combs which curve to
fit the head. dlrect ly under the knot arranged
high. and serve as q comfortable support for
the heavy winter hat.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

Wear one OF the ne " cutaway coats Of lace
with your black velv'st skirt. II may be Of
cream lace over whitt, or black chantilly over
white satin and edged with a tiny rucne Of
black chiffon, but it Is the correct thing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

This list, he asserts. will amply provide for q
girl OF moderate means and tastes and will at
pearance all the year round. The entire OUTFIT
cost .S61.4S. and. 1t Is said. every one of the
more. The balance Of the S75 the storekeeper
allows the girl for sundrles,, such as stiokplns,
haircombs, rubbers. haiTpins and any small
articles Of jewelry she may think necessary to
her outfit.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

SSAsAAS are all used for this purpose. but
transparent materials are perhaps the most
popular. especially for young girls.
- embroidered ohifons are beautiful. and
II vOu would have the latest effect In your
evening droAS have two or thres transparent
skirts 0vOF the foundation OF silk. For exam
OlA . me cream lace falls over a skirt OF white
ne atottsd with silver seauins. and under this
= another skirt of silver tissue. Pale green
goass over white net embroidered with pearls
ana oliver. and hung over pink satin. Is strik-
InGfy pretty. Plain white mousseline dc sole
ISused underneath the lace gowns to give the
soft eject. IN the combination Of chiffon. lace
and 0Ilk makes q very stylish gown
Adesp hoancs OF white chiffon on q white
ak skirt. with p or two hounees OF cream
lace falling over 1t. forms the foundation OF a
very stylish gown. The edge OF the chiffon
Dpaaes tSsA tiny Euehv n issL Aslose- ~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

ambitions, according as her dress allowance
aud individual taste regulate the means OF
reaching the desired result. She can sum
mon all her forces when she starts in on the
subject Of evening gownsthis season. for elabo-
ration and extravaganza are rife in this de-
partment OF dress. Ball gown glitter with
SpanEies and beads of various kinds In various
embroidered designs from neck to hem. and
as they are all supplied with long trains there
is abundant space for decoration. Some. in
fact all. Of the fine beaded effects are done by
hand IN such intricate patterns that it would
seem to require years Of labor to complete the
designs. Single seQuinsare not heavy enough.
90 they lap half over each other. and in some
instances are sewed on double. making a very
brilliant effect. +
Nothing in the way OF trimming can be too
elegant or elaborate for the new ball gown. SO
there II no limit to the amount OF money which
you can spend on evening dress. Gold and
silver spangles are very much used in decora-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

silk lining. and a band Of satin with tulle
ruches trims the neck. A pretty model shown
In the illustration is carried out In pale yellow
tafeta with an insertion Of lace. with q band
OF embroidery in the skirt. a lace bodice with
embroidery for the finish. and a yellow chiffon
vest. The sleeves are OF silk. Pink chiffon
and lace form another costume. fastened across
the vest with black velvet bows.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
THE 1m1nns OF FASHION.

Three -cornereu cololed velvet toques, trim
med with u bit OF fur and some jewelled orna-
ments. are the smart thing in headgear.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

point d'esprit covered with rufies OF itself.
while the upper part is covered with a peplum
overdress OF black chantilly and white chiffon
underneath. The bodice of white is softly COW
cred with the lace. Three little frills Of net
form the sleeves and finish the neck. Bright
colored velvet knots or rosette bows are worn
at one side OF the neck. or. what is still prettier.
a velvet rose in some OF the gorgeous rich reds
which are so much worn.
Embroidered and applique designs OF birds
and, butterflies are still another feature OF
decoration. One white satin gown Is adorned
with seagulls done In gray chiffon and an en-
broidery OF ~spangles and chenille. Cream
blond net. edged with tiny ruches Of colored
chiffon. forms a pretty trimming, and narrow
killings Of cream esprit net. edged with white
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

ruches OF mauve tulle sewed on a white satin
band. The lower part Of the skirt is a deep.
full founce OF White lace falling over the pink
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30
Can a Baltimore Girl ORES. on S7S a Year,

A well-known department store proprietor
declared that any girl can dress we'll In Baltt-
more for $40 Il year. and put prices y the fol-
lowing list to prove IT.:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

The new golf skirt is iong'r than the on
worn last SEASON. and il usually made o
double faced cloth with goreIl front and cir
cular sides.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

Red. In the new shade whichShas . very pinky
tinEa. lie very much the fashion. II is some
thing between a scarlet and q crimson. and
cloth gowns "a this tint. With Aplain stitching
toE utmmiHg, are YeTy swetL
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

The new silk petticoat whB;h can have any
place among the new fashions must be ntted
as carefully as the skirt which covers Il. made
almost as long, and quite plain about the hips.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

Mix a few drops OF sweet%oil with an equal
quantity OF black ink and apply the mixture 70
black kid gloves where the outer surface Is
off 4
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-30

ton. and crystal beads. combined with silk
embroidery and imitation Jewels. are the
height Of fashion. Chenille outlines the de-
sign in lace applique. and nets with large
moons Of colored chenille are used for gowns
In combination with silk. Lace gowns and
lace bodies with silk and chiffon skirts are
the fashionable thing to have. but apparently
there Il NJ dividing line in materials for even
In OOWna. Broch6 silks. 0atins. molrss and