Evening star., 1898-09-17
QUIET TSTREETGOWNS
Hints From the Russian Capital on
Fabrics and Gut.
THE NOVELTIES In PLAID CREPON
"Toreador" Red Waists With Black
and White Skirts.
L E NJ B r A n D L II A T

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
ST. PETERSBURG, September 3, 1s9S.
Fall and winter fashions are now fully in
augurated and all important changes are
acknowledged. 1t is evident that while at
home and evening gowns are rich with
trimmings and draperies, the street and
taiIor-made gown affects as much simplic-
ity as this season of superabundance in
garnitures will allow.
Our illustrated model follows this rule
and is sure to appeal to the woman of
taste who. however she may express her
individuality In the style and colors of her
house gown and evening gowns, will prefer
quiet neutrality in her appearance on the
street.
Goblin green, q new grayish green shade,
on the sea sons newest color card Is the
color Of the smooth-faced cloth which con-
stitutes the gown. The skirt is composed of
five unlined serpentine flounces, one above
the other, each stitched with rows of dark
er graen sewing silk, the highest founce
having but two rows. with ore additional
row to each lower one. The flounceS are
all mounted on underskirt of goblin
green taffeta with pinked baIayeuse of
the same material around the inside of the
hem
The skirt is worn with any independent
shirt waist and the jacket of goblin green
cloth still adheIes 10 the modified Russian
form which was so popular last year. This
blouse Is lined with white silk and for ad-
ditional warmth with an interlining of
white canton flannel
The sleeve is quite plain and tight with
a tucked fullness at the shoulder forming
foundation for the flare of the large COL
larette of Russian bear which covers the
shoulders. and with its large faring collar
protects the neck and ears.
Jewel Buckle and Clasp.
The fullness at the wais, is gathered into
a belt Of goblin green velvet with an ar
tistic buckle.
An expensive novelty is shown at the
closing Of the bodice on the left side 1t is
in the shape of a gold lizard set with pre-
cious stones, which has taken the place of
the little live animal of which fashion has
fortunately tired. 1t seems to be a new
wrinkle of Dame Fashion to give her new
est jewelry and ornaments the shape of
lizards and insects. One beautiful watch is
In the form of a gold beetle with wings set
with emeralds, opening and shutting over
the face; the head is set with ruby eyes
and the legs and feelers are artisttcally i'm
itated in gold.
Among the various dress goods DISPLAYED
at the big shops and fashionable dress
makers plain cloths take the lead for street
wear. as they form a most desirable ground
for the many trimmings and draperies
which designate the seasons gowns
Crepons. both wooden and silk. are again
made up for various uses and the coIors
and shades are so numerous that they will
commend themselves 10 any taste, while
the prices are such as to equally suit all
purses.
Plaids. which have now held public fancy
during several seasons, are shown as a
novelty in crepons. Plaid grounds repre-
senting q collection OF colors appropriate
for autumn. form d foundation for crepon
figures in black. the two uniting to supply
an attractive and desirable innovation.
Silk and wool epingalines in two-color
combinations producing a changeabIe ef-
feet show blending of black and red black
and green, black and helIotrope, black and
blue and black and brown, and are par
ticularly adapted to trimmings of the
brighter SHADES and becoming bodices with
colored silk or velvet vests yelled with lace.
Rough Effects stin Shown
Boucle effects are again in evidence, par
ticularly in plaid designs with black flakes.
which make up into charming street gowns
Tor young ladies who prefer self-trirlmed
gowns, as the richness Of the coloring of
these boucle plaids makes trimmings un-
necessary.
Many fetching novelty IS shown In the
line of wraps and jackets. Some wraps
bear a military aspect, aid are made of
red or blue cloth. with gilt braid orna-
ments, but there are others less flashing
and equally handsome, reminding one
somewhat OF the mantles worn by our
grandmothers in the beginning OF the cen
fury. These capes are thirty to thirty-six
Inches long at the back, rounding up to the
throat and fitting snug over the shoulders
with a half circular hounce narrowing TO
nothing as 1t slopes up to the dared collar
which part is of more rnudcra growth than
the remainder of the garment. The mater
ial of these wraps is more or less costly OF
cloth or silks or velvets, end OF any desir-
able color, but 10 suit the modern taste
they must be finished at the throat by a
large bow Of crinkled sauzc, satin or silk