The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1898-02-27

ed models fasten on the left side. and
are trimmed on the front with pende
loGues and braids to give the effect of
a double-breasted garment At the top
short, broad revers turn away, and
join very f1aring collar, and both rev.
ers and collar are faced with white or
cream cloth and edged with a trefoil
design in braid. Soutache in two or
three different widths is used on one
jacket.
All basque pieces. peplums and little
skirt additions to bodices lie smooth
and fiat, and instead of any sort of rip
pie or plat, there are numerous fancy
ways of shaping the lower edges, tabs,
points, postillion effects and tiny Van
dyke basques. showing two points, one
longer than the other. and forming Of
differing materials, and often contrast
ing colors. Bright colored ladies' cloth
of very fine, light quality is in some in
stances used instead of velvet, for
one of the points, and when covered
with a rich decoration of a lace spray
en- applique or special design in silk
cord or beaded passementerie, it is
very effective. The same idea carried
out on the sleeve-tops forms a novel
and pretty finish.
The home dressmaker is just now
employing a considerable part of her
time in making over Dresses from those
which have done fair duty for the past
two seasons, and arranging new drap-
cries of net, null. fancy grenadine, or
other bodies and skirts or princesse
dresses of silk or satin, that have been
worn in other forms. To add to these
gowns when thus partly finished, are
now sold quantities of extremely pref
ty made-up laces-berthas, plastrons,
| collarettes, frilled fuchus, girdles en-
riched with handsome slides and jew
eled buckles, and also knife, box, and
-pleated Fittings by the yard,
that form short sleeves and corsage.
and skirt-trimmings that save much
| time for the dressmaker and prove
very effective additions. Another use
| that is made Of partly worn silk skirts
| in green, blue, black, etc, is to con-
vert them into petticoats. These
skirts must be ripped apart, brushed,
sponged, and pressed breadth or so
|
bound to the hem, so that it will wear
well-a great fault with nine-tenths OF
| the silk skirts sold ready made being
| the propensity to fray very quickly at
the lower edges. Rustic percaline, or
some of the other substitutes for tat
| feta is good choice for the facing.
When completed. add new ruffles to the
skirt, which need not necessarily match
the foundation. Hundreds of very
| handsome remnants are offered for sale
| in two and three-yard lengths, that
will make the prettiest sort of frlils Tor
the petiicoat These may be carried to
| the stores, where side-pleating is. done
at so many cents a yard, or be corded
at home on the sewing machine, with
the simple little cording attachment.
They can be pinked with tiny pink
ing iron at the edge. or merely piped or
hemmed and machine-stitched. The
rufIles may be of fancy-striped satin in
tri-colors of plain or shot taffetas, of
pleated surah, faille, Liberty silk or
satin, or any of the very gay tartans
in glowing clan colors.
The spring shades of blue are Roman,
hyacinth, silver, Napoleon and bar
beau. or blue bottle. The greens are
in many tints with fanciful titles that
have clear emerald tints, and also the
deep Russian green, becoming to so
many pretty women; willow, the gold
en- green tint and leaf in three differ
ent shades Gismonda again appears,
the purple slightly deeper than that of
Parma violet, and much like the anne
thyst are plum shades that have been
so popular in costume cloths and mill
linery this winter.
Fur this winter has continued to be
largely used as a decoration for choice
evening toilets, ermine still receiving
considerable share of patronage. Cream
white satin skirts and blouses have
tiny roll of dark fur at the skirt edge.
and fur and lace on the bodice. Seal,
sable and mink are seen on waists of
milk-white chiffon. pink satin ana
mousseline de sole waists are bordered
with a narrow line of sealskin, and odd
looking fur guimpes, revers, collarettes,
peplums. Girdle pieces and bretelies
are used on costly velvet redingotes and
cloak dresses made a la Russo.
A very striking collarette reaching
just to the shoulder tips was recently
worn with an elegant tailor costume OF
rich Roman blue cloth at an afternoon
entertainment at the Astoria. The col
larette was made Of darkest otter and
was only slightly full Above this and
almost covering the fur, but leaving
narrow borderlike edge iE relief, was
a superb bertha made of lace in COM
bined duchesse and point patterns. In
side of the large Medici collar of fur
was fraise of the lace, the other
forming a dark and most becoming
background for the display of its ex-
quisite designs. The hat worn en- suite
with the costume was a small velvet
toque trimmed with otter fur, lace.
pinkish Parma violets and green velvet
leaves.
Velvet is now puffed. waved, box
pleated and accordion pleated by ma
chine processes, and the result is any
thing but elegant 1t is like painting
the rose or pertaining the violet TO
thus maltreat so beautiful a material
as velvet. The rich, lustrous surface
oi tiie ia'iis II SLoiicas a1iu 10 s"iue
bemeaned by such manipulation. As
well starch point lace CT cut up sable
into minute fancy bits to trim a gown
If ever beauty unadorned is adorned
the most. 1t is in sparing the scissors
and Withholding every sort of ''decora
ton" from either silk, velvet. or costly
fur.
Novel designs in girdles and
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