The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1898-03-08
TAR HEELS
The Excursicn Party on the Steamer AlIer
Reach Gibraltar transatlantic
Trip Written Up for Messenger Readers
Steamer "Aller," Feb. II, 1898

This is the last day OF our ocean yoy-
age, and tomorrow we reach Gibraltar.
Landsmen were somewhat puzzled TO
observe that the first few days our
course bore somewhat to the
north Of east. rather han 10 the south,
as we expected. But this is the course
Of a great circle" and IS really the
shortest way, as any n a see by
stretching a string on a globe from
New York to the Azores, I felt a
thrill OF pride TO recall hat il was
our great southerner, Maury. who had
first taught the navigators OF the world
TO sail in great circles"
Shortest or not, these first days were
not our happiest days. Some Of our
party, indeed, escaped the most fragrant
manifestations of sea-sickness, but all
were more or less uncomfortable. Mon
day was simply horrible. 1t was in
tolerable within. while on deck the
cold, damp wind sent shivers to the
very bones-through macintosh, over
coat, rugs, cardigan jacket and the
usual clothing that was somewhere be-
meath. The decks were slippery with
dashing spray. The vessel rolled SO
that ropes We're stretched along the
decks, and enc had to be fenced in his
booth at night. We wondered why We
has come. 1t was inconceivable that
We had ever looked upon it in the light
Of a pleasure. And Why any one Should
pay to do it was simply beyond i'm
imagination. But. ON Tuesday all was
changed. The u shOne bright, the
sea was calmer, we began to get our
sea-legs, and a relish for our food be-
gan to succeed to lOathing. by the
next day the sentiments of the whole
party were expressed by one who re-
| marked in a reflective way, as if re-
considering a too hasty view: This is
not such a rough voyage" The fact
is, we have had a delightful voyage,
and we all feel better than we ever felt
in our lives. I cannot understand the
haste to be over a sea voyage. If one
could eliminate the first two or three
days it would be different, but as we
have to have them in the shortest as
in the longest voyage, to cut off the
last days is to cut off the e~XhileratiOn,
the freshness, the bOuyant life that
comes from filling the lungs with this
untainted air, and becoming saturated
with the sadness of the sea. There is
a sense of bOundless life and vigor-as
~boundless as the great sea itself-that
makes one feel he could command the
| ship or storm Gibraltar. However,
| this ship is so we'll differed that we
| have no Intention of trying the former,
while our invasion of Gibraltar tOmor-
row will have no hostile intent against
the British Empire.
Speaking of officers, it has been a
great pleasure to meet Fourth Officer
lander, who so h~eroically volunteered
to save the crew Of the Dago. He is
a splendid looking young fellow, as
d as he is gallant. At my request
he let me take a picture of him stand
ing by the little boat in which with
eight sturdy sailors he went three
times over a mile of raging ocean and
saved twenty-six human lives.
At DR.. Alderman's especial request I
will not give you the dimensions OF the
ship or the number of pounds OF beef,
mutton, etc, that we are expected to
consume. 1t is easy ITO comply with
this request, as I have not a~scertained.
But we went down into the bowels of
| the ship and saw the triple-expansion
engine at work, the great shaft revolv-
| ing, and the stokers feeding the fur
naces. ] was glad ITO find that in
front of the furnaces where the stOkers
| work was one of the coolest places i'm
the ship, from the great draught Of air
that is necessary TIC supply the furnaces
| Will Ill. 1Ilt DIN cIlSllSS lIldl L i
us $50 miles a day, heat our rooms,
furnish our electric Fights and distil
| the water that we drink. The cuisine
Of the steamer is superb. breakfast
we order from the card, but lunch and
dinner are served on courses. Last
nights dinner surpassed everything.
There were ten courses, and the stout
est heart might nave qualied, but this
soft air makes one equal to anything.
The most interesting days of the voy-
| age were Friday and Saturday. About
II a. M. (when the folks at home were
getting ready for breakfast) the cry
| was raised, Lam ahead" lure enough
a darker cloud than those that bank
ed the horizon, seemed to have a fixed
shape and station. 1t was about like
the pyramid of Cheops in outline. Grad
ual1y other forms appeared to the left
of it, clearer. though not sc high. All
rules were suspended, and passengers
were allowed to crowd the bridge and
quarter deck and every point of VAN
tage. Eyes were strained and glasses
were trained upon. the object of absorb
ing interest. We Americans were dis
covering the outposts Of the Old World.
Presently a white spot appears on the
blue. The glass tells you that it is a
village perched high on the mountain
side. We are evidently not the first
discoveries. In fact, these stands were
known when Columbus passed here on
his way to discover US.
To those of US VIII had only known
the Azores as little dots on the map,
they were a revelation. All the islands
are mountainous, and show plainly
their vOlcanic origin. They are closely
cultivated, the fields being checkered
with hedges to prevent the washing of
the soil. Oranges. lemons, olives,
grapes, sweet potatoes and rye are
among the principal products. High
UP the lava washed sides are clothed
with pine, or are bars Of all save furze
and lichens. White villages, farm
houses and churches nestle in the val
legs. cling to the mountain sides or
perch upon the conical tops of the
hills. WirdmillS to grind the grain
spread their long arms to the wind on
hflltopS. Innumerable fishing boats,
each with two little pointed sails speck-
the blue waters around San Miguel, the