davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

and the plain cuffs of black faille are dec
GRATED with narrow bias bands of red vel
vet
A folded belt of red velvet closes ON one
side under a small fril.
The cloth manufacturers have provided
In richness of quality well as quantity
Tor the tailor made, which, like Phoe-
nix, rises in new glory every spring as we'll
as Cor such gowns as afford "a greater field
Tor the customers taste and imagination
and there is large collection of new and
beautiful patterns in cloth to select from
1t would indeed be q fastidious person
who would not be wholly satisfied with at
least one of these. Some of the new wool
materials are strikingly handsome, and
fairly shine with the various mixtures of
colored silks woven over plaid and other
pretty grounds. There is also any quantity
OF whipcords hopsacking effects, cordu-
royS, stripes, tWeedS and wool bengalines
Some of the latter shown in charming
speckled effects. which are among the nov
elites of the season.
The vogue for skirts and blouses increases
as time goes on and different materials
have come Tito the market especially de
signed for the purpose.
The prevailing idea of dressmakers will
be to fashion the dress bodice out of some
thing highly ornate. to be partly or wholly
Of vest or jacket.
Moiree silks are altogether out of fashion
A few styles may be worn. but these are of
fancy moiree in small patterns cut by cross
stripes
In General Favor.
Cashmeres and tUlle fabrics have estab-
ished themselves firmly in general favor
Grenadines have outlived the favor of
several seasons and come in beautified
check and plaid designs in black and fancy
coIors.
Scotch effects are meeting with the ut
most success. Plaid gowns. plaid wraps
plaid wash goods, plaid ribbons, are the
order of the day.
One sees all sorts Of combinations of
green and blue velvet. and often decorated
with gold buttons, buckles or belts. very
handsome and effective combination in silk
is in black, white and red and will prove
most suitable for summer travelling shirt
waists. Black and white checks and shep-
herds Dlaids will also play an important
role in the spring and summer wardrobe
One charming toilet for summer travelling
is made of white and black shepherds
plaid The plain skirt Ga little shorter than
the inconmodious length seen on the or
binary spring models), is trimmed with
rows of narrow black velvet ribbon inter-
lacing and forming small loops at the ends,
where they are held by tiny black velvet
at the back, but has the required pouch in
front, is lined throughout with white silk
and is trimmed with rows of interacing
velvet ribbon. as are the sleeves, the high
fiarine collar and the belt. A red silk
shirtwaist looks very bright with this
gown, particularly when the black and
white fancy straw hat. to be worn with It,
is trimmed with black and white ribbon
and masses of red poppies.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
Designed by Some Of the Leading
Milliners Of Paris.
POPULAR SHAPES AND TRIMMINGS
Dainty CONNECTIONS Intended to Set
Off Pretty Faces.
STRAW AND ERS
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
In our last weeks article we called par-
ticular attention to the La Bergere" hat,
and present this week a very beautiful de-
sign Of that description by Nine. Pouyanne
1t will be particularly noticed that this hat
combines several important features of
this springs wear, including fancy silk
straw, plaid ribbon, polka dot wings and
flowers in yellow and white.
The particular yellow which will have
the run of the season is the "couuc-de-
roche,' but it should not be supposed that
it is necessary to make this color too i'm
portant a feature of the hat, because it
can be shaded with great effect gradually
into cream or white, and this combina-
ton improves its delicacy.
The spangled quilts are another feature
which will be very effective, especially for
those whose age and faces are such as to
be able to wear hat of the piquant order,
such as the Alpine" 1t Will also be no.
tced by our Illustrations that white tulle
and embroidered tulle of fancy designs can
be used with charming effect over other
shades of velvet, for instance. White ma
line will be as popular as ever, and will be
most effective rather with strong con-
trast Of surrounding color. Another fash
ion this season, which will be seen in Illus
tration No. A. is the lace craqueiin. This
also needs q powerful contrast, and can be
gotten out in very many designs and in
excellent taste.
We shall, as last week. give simply a
condensed article and append below the de-
scriptions Of the various hats furnished by
the most noted Partisan milliners, but, be-
fore concluding, would call especial atten-
ton to the hat, No. 6. by Nine. Cartier
carrying with it black plumes and SEEM
ingiy modified form of the Victoria Flare
of last season. This design is very dressy
but to acquire its proper effect must be
trimmed With the finest feathers.
No. 1-Designed by Nine. jesse, Pujol
Successor.
Ladies' hat, made Of striped cream net
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
ELEVATORS IN PRIVATE HOUSES.
Thousands Are In Use in New York
No Operator Needed.

No Operator Needed.
From the New York Evening Post
Among the luxurious conveniences Of the
dwelling houses Of the rich are now eleva-
tors. 1t is very seldom that a private resi-
dence is more than four stories in height
and the living rooms of the family are, sas
rule, on the second or third floor The
stairways have wide low steps, easy Of as
cent; but the exertion of climbing even a
single flight Of stairs is now accounted too
frksome for these whose means enable
them to escape it. Accordingly. in all
houses planned today, which are to cost as
much as s10O.0OO-putting the matter broad
ly-there Is an elevator. Architects in their
designs for fine houses always make pro-
vision for the elevator unless they have re-
ceived express directions not to do so. Even
in cases where the elevator is not to be
put in Immediately provision is made for
1t either by space left for shaft or by the
actual construction of the shaft. In hun
creds of old houses built before elevators
were thought of for residences elevators
have within year or two been installed.
Nearly all elevators in private houses are
operated by electricity by means of a cur
rent derived from the electric mains of the
subways In the street. The owner of the
house is thus relieved of all trouble con-
corning the motive power; 1t is turned on
end Oft like the gas or electric light. Moth
ing Is required except that the working
parts of the elevator should be kept clean
and fabricated, and this is usually attended
to by the inspector of the installing COM
pany, SO that nothing could be less trouble
some. Elevators are thus bound to become
In time Indispensable adjuncts Of the homes
of the rich, and possibly of a class to be
accounted something less than rich, be-
cause the cost of the elevator installation
is not tremendously high.
One thing rendering it so popular is that
no elevator operator is required; it is not
necessary to add another to the army of
servants already employed. Any one can
for all that he or she has to do is press
the button and the company does the rest"
If one wishes to ascend or descend to any
floor, all he has to do is TO press certain
button, and the elevator Immediately starts
for that floor and stops of it's own accord
when it gets there. In some cases the
doors open and close automatically, but
this involves a complicated apparatus
which is found usually unsuited to a pri-
vate residence. The possibility of ele-
vator door being left open is guarded
against by device which prevents the
elevator from moving until the door has
been closed, and when closed 1t automatic
ally locks until it is unlocked by the arrival
Of the elevator.
Most of the elevators are, of course, quite
small, accommodating about three persons.
Some are large enough for six even
eight They are often very handsomely
and extensively decorated. The entire de-
signing and construction of the elevator is
done under the supervision of the elevator
company, but the ornamentation is con-
fided to the decorators and furniture max
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
Color and the Imagination

From the New York Evening Post.
An interesting illustration Of the effect Of
color Is that shown by some experiments
recently made. It was found that with the
same temperature In both rooms, ono Of
which was furnished in blue and the other
in red. nearly every person who entered
the two pronounced difference of from
four to six degrees in heat in favor of the
red room. There is something peculiarly
stimulating about red. The fact that it can
be seen at a greater distance than almost
any other color Is well known, showing
that 1t arouses the vision In proportion.
Blue is CORRESPONDENCE depressing, these
two colors being moro decided than almost
any other of the list.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
HOUSEHOLD HINTS

With the advent of spring. and its ac
compaHying tired feeling" it behooves the
housewife to take the initiative, see TO it
that her bill of fare Is varied 10 suit the
requirements of the season, and then snap
her fingers at the doctors. Acids are espe-
cially needed on the tables in early spring.
and plentiful supply of salads and onions
will be found as efcacious in purifying the
blood a. Mrs Squeers treacle and sulphur.
The sweet buildings and rich pies which
were welcomed a month ago found
cloying now 10 the taste, and simpler des-
serts will not only prove more wholesome,
but much more appetizing. Lemons AMI
oranges should be used in abundance, AMI
the wholesome rhubarb made much of
The iancelike leaves OF the horseradish
pushing their way through the ground give
rotice that the pungent root is ready to
whet the jaded appetite. Salt fish-the cod
and mackerel-and the sailed meats-han.
and dried beef-wilI often be found much
more acceptable than the fresh. Nature in
the matter Of food supply is very safe
guide to follow. and instinct, taste and eX-
pcrience will give the thoughtful provider
the clue TO what is needed for the building
and repair of the bodily machines commit
ted to her keeping.
Frizzled beef. with or without horse
fadish, makes an acceptable luncheon, sup
per or breakfast dish Ii is especially con-
venient for an emergency standby, as the
dried beef may be kept on hand for any
length of time. Take a half pound of
smoked beef and cut in thin shavings
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a small
frying pan, and when hot. add the beef and
cook TWO or three minutes, constantly stir
ring until IL friZzles. Set back where il will
keep hot while you make the following
sauce: Put one heaping tablespoonful of
butter, and one tablespoonful of flour into
another saucepan. stirring until ii Is smooth
ana frothy, ut not Drowned. Add grad
TALLY cupful Of warm milk and stir until
creamy and free from Jumps. Add a tea
spoonful of grated horseradish drained from
The vinegar. speck of cayenne and a
pinch OF mustard. If desired; cook slowly
1--WE minutes, add the beef and serve at
once, with baked potatoes. The beef will
probably make it salt enough, but more can
be added, IL desired. Water may be used
In place of the milk, or cream, the horse
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

In mauVe tone. Trimmed fully with gar
land Of violets; bows Of ribbon in the same
color.
No. 2-Desisncd by Camille Roger.
Ladies hat in light green Yedda straw
trimmed fully around brim with flat roses
and natural grasses to match Back fin
ished with Donna Maria gauze in darker
green, fastened by a large steel and crystal
ornament.
No. 3-Desfgned by Nine. POuynnnc.
Ladies hat Of La Bergere" shape, made
Of fancy silk straw in Russian green, trim
med with plaid ribbon, polka-dot WINGS
French cuckoo flowers in yellow and white,
with handsome rhinestone and old silver
ornament.
No. 4-DesiSned by Nine. POuyapne.
Ladies beret in Peruvian straw, trimmed
on crown with six pairs of black wings.
Edge OF brim draped with black velvet and
lace craquelin. Finish over hair is black
velvet and hawthorne blossoms.
No. b-Designed by Nine. jesse, PuJOl
Successor.
Ladies' round hat in embroidered tule of
fancy design. The only trimming Is gar
land Of roses shading from coque-de-roche
yellow to cream around the upturned brim.
A bunch of same holds the spangled quilts
in place.
No. G-Desisned by Mime. earlier.
Copy of hat mads for the Russian Prin-
on edge of brim Is fine, small black tips.
Trimmed with three standing black anna
zone plumes; black net with long scarf Of
same for ties Ia II
No. 7-Designed by Ju1in Delmotte.
Ladies' hat in fine, white chip, with a
dropping brim at back. Trimmed with mas
turtiums Of different shades and foliags,
white maline and folds Of mirror velvet"
Large bows of maline and velvet held in
place by buckle over the hair.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
Pay Roll of "a Fifth Avenue Mansion,

New York Letter to the Pittsburg Dispatch.
The annual pay roll of one private estab--
iishment on 9Th avenue foots up $1,000; but
wages are not the only expense attached to
the servants in a great house. They must
be maintained in BETTING manner. and at
a low estimate this will cost $1,000 a year
mere for board and liveres. The ma jority
of the men servants in the retinues of rich
New Workers are English. while the maid
servants are generally Irish, Swedish or
German. The millionaire would certainly
be missed by the masses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

ers. The elevator is almost never built of
iron or steel, but of some handsome hard
wood. Much carving sometimes goes into
1t, and the upholstery and other decorations
are often very sumptuous Elevators are
found very useful at large balls and recep-
tons, and the time is rapidly approaching
when it will be considered bad form" if
guests are asked to walk up pair of
stairs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

A n L L L " L l. Il
would like an answer
to the question: Have
conditions changed
enough In the last
thirty years to make
the hoopskirt forever
impossible? 9th e r
things may seem
more pressing, with
the newest spring
skirt tripping you up
by its length in front
and wrapping itself
in Snaky folds about
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

near the open fire, and on 1t Is set silver
pot, which revolveS over alcohol lamp,
and at once not only boils the beverage
but strains it of grounds. all in the shortest
space. with not even the amount of man.
ipula don tea making requires.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
They scatter.

From the New Orleans Picayune.
So many people talk at random that half
OF what Is said never makes a hit.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26
CURRENT FASHIONS
Return of the Crinoline is Not an
1mpossibility.
SWEEPING SKIRTS ARE NARROWER
Stylish Models, Wherein Some
Bizarre Effects Are Seen.
FAVORITE COMBIN ATOMS
SKIRTS ARE NARROWER
FAVORITE COMBINA TIONS

Copyright, 1898. by Bacheller Syndicate)
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK March p 1898.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

seui Heels, out some oil the ShrewdeSt de-
siSners are already counting on a reaction
-Four years ago these same designers
whose business it is to watch and control
the movement of fashions, made a deter
mined effort to introduce hoped petticoats
W hile the project was in embryo half a
dozen women with newspaper commissions
appeared in the streets of New York in
hoops, to see how they would work and
now people would take them. One of these
women told me that she liked her dress
and wouldn't mind continuing to wear #.
But the designers failed. Women submit
ted to stiff interlinings; they even wired the
mems of their dresses but the movement
went no farther. 1t scanned to be proved
that there were limits to complaisancc;
that hoops Were impracticable. The de-
slgners think otherwise, else they would
not SO soon propose to try it again. The
idea is to carry the narrow skirt to ex-
tremes and then when women have reached
promising stage of disgust with the pull
back and with the froth of soiled chiffons
about their heels, to swing the pendulum
The notion isn't bad one. but if it sue
ceeds the earth Will need to have porticoes
built round it-like Saturn's rings; without
that much extra room, such skirts as were
worn by Mrs. Grant and Mrs. Lincoln, for
example, at Lincoln's second inaugural
would De death to rapid transit and various
other things.
The Long Skirt BustIe.
One feeler in behalf of the crinoline has
been put out this spring-the long skirt
tustle, which is not inconsistent with mar
row draperies; it is even required, when all
the fullncss of skirt is massed at the
back, to bring order out of confusion and
to make walking possible.
Another feeler, to which most people will
think 1t fanciful to attach any significance
is certain effort to revive long earrings.
1t works in this way: Many women own
fire old pendant earrings that belong with
valuable sets of coral or other jewelry.
These things are never remodeled because
they are heirloomS; few of them could be
adapted TO modern patterns. Their possess
sors think the time has come to bring
them out when paniers and hounces are
getting an airing. Thus one more item is
added to a list of things that somehow go
together and go with crinoline. There is
however, offsetting force in the fact
that, while great gold hoop earrings and
the like are suited to just a few folks
whose personality is uncommon or pictur-
esque, the average woman looks particu-
larly absurd when decorated with them.
But these are long shots of the fashion
fcrecaSterS. For the immediate future the
sw eeping skirt is becoming narrower and
more sweeping, and its shape is accentu-
ated ana dwet upon by the long lines of
trimming which decorate it from waist
to hem or waist to knee.
Grace and Dignity.
The princess dress, which year ago
was pronounced the most trying possible
for any but a woman of perfect figure,
is now declared to lend grace and dig
nifty to thin and thick alike. | believe il
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

The clouded condition of a highly pol
ished piano surface is said to come from
climatic changes. A piano finisher is au-
thority for the statement that a clean,
soft channels wrung out of clear water
and wiped rapidly over the surface before
"a gooa polish is applied is the proper treat
ment to remedy the defect A piano polish
recommended by Miss Parloa consists of
equal parts of paraffine oil and turpentine,
applied with soft flannel, then polished
with linen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

radish may be omitted entirely and two or
three beaten eggs substituted. or the beef
may simply be frizzled and mixed with two
or three poached eggs, and in all cases it
will be pronounced good
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

which in Its turn Is striped with silk straw
IN mauve tone. Trimmed fully with gar
land of violets; bows Of ribbon in the same
Color
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26


There is SO much individuality nowadays
- furnishing that many women are more
an ieEShted to have 1t executed directly
under their own supervision. So MANY
harmonious oraperies and furniture cover
irgS can be picked UP now at low price
that, with a dexterous pair of hands To
aid. cushions, coy corners, divans. cabi-
nets and the like can be readily and mex
pcnsively evolved
To be sure of having a successfn, din
her IN every respect, see that the dining
rec m is thoroughly aired for at least a
half hour before dinner is served The
dining room may well be a little under
rather than over a moderate temperature,
though arrangements should be made to
keep the air fresh without allowing
draughtS.
water solution, and always rub lengthWise
with the grain. If there are grease spots
take boiling soap suds and the scrubbins
brush. then rinse carefully with the salt
water, and rub dry.
1t is reported that in some of the indus
trial schools classes in home upholstery
are formed, where young women may learn
the rudiments of this useful art, and then
go out by the day to carry on the work.
If baby has cold in the chest rub
well with camphorated oil, cover with
protect the clothing with another layer of
flannel.
To save time and strength in the weekly
ironing, remember that dish towels and
common towels can be ironed quite well
enough and in half the time IL folded to-
gether once.
Silver fans for menu holders are the
newest things brought out for this pur-
pose in London.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

The princess dress. which a year ago
was pronounced the most trying possible
for any but a woman of perfect figure,
is now declared to lend grace and dig
nifty to thin and thick alike. L believe it
does-measurably. One of the best forms
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

To save time and strength in the week.,
ironing, remember that dish towels an,
common towels can be ironed quite wei
gether once
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

Silver fans for menu holders are the
newest things brought out for this pur-
pose in London.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-03-26

If baby has a cold in the chest, rut
well with camphorated oil, cover with
soft flannel cloths soaked in olive oil, and
protect the clothing with another Iayer o1
flannel
The news & observer. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1894-current, 1898-07-09
CERVERA'S DISASTER.
CONTINUED from First Page,

Cubans. The Harvard came of. ana !
requested Captain Cotton to go IN aud
take off the crews of Teresa and of the
Oqucndo, and by night the Harvard had
91G prisoners aboard, Il great number
Of them wounded.
For courage and dash there is no
parallel in history TO this action OF the
Spanish admiral He came. as he knew
TO absolute destruction. There was one
single hopc-that was that the Crlstobal
Colon would steam faster than the
Brooklyn.
"The American squadron was without
sentiment, apparently. The ships went
ut their Spanish opponents and literally
tore them to pieces. But the moment the
the Spanish flag came down, II
must have been evident that the scnti-
mcnt was among the Americans not
among the Spaniards.'
Captain Evans is intensely proud of
his ship and her men. The Iowa fired
thirty-onc twelve inch, forty-eight eight
inch, two hundred and seventy four inch,
thousand and sixty six pound and one
hundred and twenty one pound shots.
The officers Of the NiZcaya said they
simply could not hold their crews at the
guns on account of the rapid fire poured
upon them. The decks were flooded
with water. Fragments of bodies doatcd
into this along the gun deck. Every
instant the crack of exploding shells
told of new havoc. One of the 12-inch
shells from the Iowa exploded tor
pedo in the Nizcaya's bow. blowing
twenty-one men against the deck above
and dropping them dead and manglcd
into the fire which at once started be-
low