The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-11-14
for 1No1nen

The queens and Expresses nave long
since given US the lead In this matter, the
late Empress of Austria, the DoWager
czarina of Russia, the Princess Of Wales,
being all remarkable for the outward
simplicity Of their attire, whereas thesex-
quisite cleverness of their underwear is
better imagined than described, for It
would need, in order to do SO, to pluck a
feather from a bird of paradise, and to
write on a petal of a rose, so delicate
and dainty are the materials selected for
this purpose.
Just now fashion has decreed that the
corset and petticoat should be of one and
the same material, whether this material
be brocaded silk, satin, t~affetas, linen or
plain batiste. / made my own selections
a few days ago, and was perfectly en-
raptured with the marvellously pretty
combinations which VIII be rendered pos
sible next winter by the many new and
original stuffs which the great manu-
facturers of Lyons lave created espe-
cially with that aim in view.
There is a so-calied Sole Imperiale"
which is of extraordinary fine and supple
as well as brilliant texture, and which
can be obtained in every imaginable
shade, from ruby red to Bengal rose,
deep Nile green to faint willow leaf, rich
orange to delicate lemon, not to mention
the shot and watered and chenille effects,
which make up into wonderful petticoats.
The young Duchess dUzes has just or
dered four dozen petticoats and corsets
in this genre, which well deserve, a few
of them at least, a short special mention.
One of them is in straw-colored brocade
shot with shell-pink, and embroidered by
hand on the lower edge with a garland of
admirably executed apple blossoms and
thistle down, worked in floss silks in the
natural shades of these flowers. Three
f1ounces Of real Alencon lace finish off
this charming little garment, the corset
made to, it being exactly SINH
lar, and fastened in front with gold
diamonds,
Another of these most desirable sets
is of pale blue silk, inserted with guipure
and dotted between the insertions with
pastilles of mauve chenille; yet another
is of amethyst watered silk, adorned with
exquisite palette work in shades vary
ing from deepest purple to white, and
trimmed with a cascade of amethyst
hued silk muslin, very fluffy and light
For evening wear, under ball or opera
costumes, the Duchess has invested in
: some perfectly lovely white satin corsets
and petticoats, hand painted with show
ers of blossoms and %profusely embellish-
ed with costly laces, one OF these being
a delightful mixture of shimmering ma
terialed filmy laces, whereon are scat
tered clusters of daffodils, cherry bios
SONS and yellow butterflies. by a masters
hand.
These are for the. very rich, but they
are worth hearing about.
While on the subject of evening dresses
/ may mention a novelty which rather
upsets by its singular originality all pre-
conceived ideas. It is, namely, that bands
of fur and applications of floral designs
cut out in silk cloth, velvet or heavy silk
will be used upon the lightest and himsi-
est of materials this winter. AS an ex-
ample l will cite a gown of white gauze,
sent last week to the young Empress of
Russia by her Partisan couturiere. The
skirt, train and low bodice were edged
with blue fox fur of great beauty, over
which ran wreaths of orchids, initiated in
pale lilac and white velvets, each flower
and leaf being fastened to the gauze by
a slender silver Z I'd. This was to be
worn over a slip ( pale mauve satin.
The Louis XVI silks will be in great
dsO OlC VI lAtGAis Air II hOAdlcs
is of bright texture, covered with tiny
lines in satin and velvet, i~ntermingled
with threads of gold and silver, pro-
ducing a most bewildering. pretty effect.
For tailor-made costumes, wooden vel
veteen," which is exceedingly soft and
smart of aspect, is going to be much used,
so is the ''drap merveilleux,' a sort of
extraordinarily light cloth, warm and
"A hla IN NC p and which urha,1 r1oda
up-as all the tailor-made suits are now
built-over silk, is among the most ele-
giant innovations of the season.
The refined hostess who looks upon the
elegance of appointment of her house and
table as a matter of personal pride has
never been able to satisfy her artistic
tendencies in that direction as she can do
at the present time, for never have the
many charming adjuncts of our salons,
boudoirs, or dining : rooms been more
airy, more ideal. or more p~oetical. Table
scarfs are a thing of the past, and re-
placed for great dinners and ceremonious
lunches by pillows of delicately tinted
silk gauze, arranged wave fashion in the
middle of the festive board and made to
surge in foamy ripp1es among silver or
gold and crystal epergnes and j~ardinieres
filled with magnificent fruit and flowers.
Silver owls, bats and lizards are now
the rage for containing salt, pepper and
mustard, or any of the other condiments
which find their natural place about our
plates. Hammered gold ones with jew
eled eyes are. of course still handsomer,
but naturally are not "a la portee de tout
le monde" and those who cannot afford
this kind of luxury find at small prices
some charming substitutes made. of cut
glass or of Tula silver.
I forgot to add that under the folds of
gauze which I just mentioned as having
taken the place of the time-honored but
now neglected table scarf, silk or satin in
a color corresponding or contrasting with
the flowers which ornament the table
should be used underneath. 1t adds
greatly to the beauty of the effect.
Coiors for winter follow very closely in
the wake of those worn during the sum
mer. says the .sWoman's Home Compan-
ion.' They will be extremely gay, and
the leading tones run to plum and purple.
Startling combinations of color are seen
on some of the new importations, but
somehow they do not make faces at each
other, as a touch of white, cream, or
black always introduced Is as q peace
maker. In fact, to be quite in the fash
inn II is irquerafiyp that axarv onu,, EoS