The times., 1898-07-03

New York. July ITO tell the story OF
the organdie. one must begin at the foun-
datiOn petticoat. A modish woman who
desires TO escape the broadside fires OF
criticism viii never fail into the error Of
erecting any Of her lawny triumphs on
a sUperstructure of crisp. taffeta silk
Go 10 the smart dressmaker, consider
her ways and wisely get your effects Of
cloudy l0Veliness on no more costly and
stas5le uAderpinning than sham skirt
of coarse white cotton net or rather
thick starched muslin, of any solid tint
preferred If you must have silk then
select a soft inexpensive grade Of surah
and let ii be the whole duty Of your en-
broidered muslin or organdie, with its
frills and founces. to flare out of itself
with the desired bouffante expression.
Put any one Of this seasons thin goods
50 fun Of gum arabic dressing that they
stand alone. over a starchy silk and no.
thing but a mother Bunch does the wear
er appear.
That woman is a benefactor 10 her sex
who discovers new way Of putting
nounces or muslin skirts for the use Of
gathered ornamentation on transparent
goods now amounts TO a mild frenzy
ana there is no eccentricity in form and
laying on of this gathered decoration
that your sister woman viii not observe,
admire and adopt. Very narrow quillings
Of either lawn, lace or ribbon have grown
like delicate vines over countless petit
coats. and these are set on in deep VAN
dyke points extending from the knee,
hip. or even the waist down. Young girls.
who wear white embroidered swisses and
such display elaborate Vandyking on
their graduation and first dancing dresses
and the pretty fancy adds always to a
woman's appearance. in giving her height
and slenderness.
A fair number Of exceedingly lovely
organdie Iresses. of hte high-necked va
riety, and worn 10 afternoon outdoor
affairs. are smartly and fancifully
elaborated with lace beading. wide or
narrow let into the skirt either in
points or in rounds. like the outlines
OF Spanish nounces. Through the bead
ing of course, run ribbons usually
a thought wider than the lace holes in
order TO pucker it up prettily. At the
tops and bottoms of points, or at in
teryals along the circles, the ribbon is
drawn out and tied in bows, and. by re-
peating this maneuYer on the waist,
great distinction in trimming is secured.
The places 10 note the growth Of the
organdie and the kindred goods right
now are at tennis games and straw
berry teas, on country club veranGas,
and at golf tournaments. 1t is an i'm
p0rtant fact that numbers of women
cut their sleeves TO the elbow and
draw gloves up to the point where the
abbreviati0n takes place. while quota
have The necks OF their light dresses
cut out pretty literally at back and
front and then filed in with a thin
spotted net drawn smoothly over white
shoulders and chest. A high finishing
collar OF ribbon takes away from any
thing like a truly decollete expression
Not even an echo answers where has
the ostrich feather boa gone. II has
simply melted out Of sight, and there Is
nothing IN its place. Slowly disappearing
is the long gold chain with its inset jew
els beads or pearls. into the place Of
the chain has sprung a new toy. 4 stick
of ivory ebony or tortoise shell: scarcely
larger in girth than a slate pencil, meas
uriDg about eighteen inches in length.
and taDering al one end to a lead pencil
that screws in and out. At the other end
il is finished by a set Of three little
glasses that fold in together. One is a
powerful magnifying lens, the other two
are for observing objects at a long dis
tance. or at close quarters, in case one is
near or far sighted. This fat gold top,
where the gold-Iimmed glasses are set
on, is easily unscrewed and down the
whole center Of the stick runs a vein
filled with aromatic gum-refreshng in a
close room or acting as a restorative for
startled nerves.
Sometimes. in place Of the screw. pen
ell, a fine steel blade shoots out from the
end Of the stick. For what purpose this
last is used no woman has yet found out
save 70 cut magazine leaves and open
letters but it is a daintily pretty weapon
More feminine and appropriate, not to
say useful, is the end finished with a
gold hook for fastening gloves. Direct
from Paris these batons have come.
along with the fancy for cutting up long
gold neck chains into aTmlets.
There has gone up a justifiable wall
from a number Of women over the slow
suppression Of Douched waist fronts
Never was there a fashion so benevolent
10 the slender American woman and to
make up 10 the slim ones for their all
mercitu. fronts the powers that sway
fashion destiny have promulgated an
edict in favor Of the kerchief for their
dresses
third. at least Of the light afternoon