The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-07-31

gowns in your summer wardrobe, lay
TO your heart the fattering JUNCTION
that You are very nicely provided
with the beginnings Of an autumn
trOusseau.
In case your equipment, however,
does not include a VOile. and you set
forth to buy one, be careful not to drop
into error with regards to color of wolfe.
There is nothing so offensive ia these
days OF hard high tones in dress as a
tint or shade that is demode or beyond
the pale Of fashion. A woman is more
severely judged now by the color than
by The cut of her pretty rig, and yet
more by the combinations of cOlors her
costumes display. Of all the blues that
have in the past y months glOwed on
the dressmakers' horizon, Chinese azure
is the one right and only variety to
wear. BY this is meant the deep, rich
tone that CLOVIS on those jars and plat
terS that are worth their weight in gold
to the students of ceramics, not high,
staring, frivolous blue, but a perfect
match with willow pattern cups when
they are true to the oriental Dotte-'s
mark. With such a blue, yellow is
thrown in combination.
Next after Chinese azure. vatican
gray claims distinct preference, and to
mention carbon brown is fairly tell
ing tales out of school, for il is one of
li4t sui DAlSCS SdN-N lOI next SEdSUIl- III
the ateliers in Paris, where experts and
artists forever study and invent COM
binati0us and schemes of color, it has
been decided for the immediate future,
or, TO speak more emphatically. for
the next six months, to keep all cos
TUNES so far as possible, in but two
colors, admitting, of course, black and
white.
To further explain, a Chinese azure
wolfe may have belt, collar and lining
of buttercup silk and yet be prettily
touched uD with the new white satin
gimp. A vatican gray foulard can be
figured in black and further adorned
with discreet touches of -sang-de-boeuf
silk under black lace. Beside carbon
brown, sage green and rose and black
are laid. and in this wonderful last
color you will soon see, in the shops,
rich Venetian and Vienna. cloths, crepes
and satin surfaced silks, for already
dealers in fine raiment are clearing out
the last of the spring stock TO make
ready for the rush of the season next
on the years programme. Within a
few weeks all the buyers will be home
from Paris, and even now some of the
early birds have come back talking of
the French substitution of clear copper
color for burnt orange among the col
ors for trimming.
BLACK AND COPPER.
All the handsomest black costumes /
in cloth, drap de Paris and wool velours /
or silk are, so they say, to show copper |
silk, satin and velvet undertake. vests /
and panels of very open worked black /
embroidery. Already some of these |
black and copper gowns are seen in |
Newport bah and drawing. rooms, and
every woman who lifts a black skirt I
shows either a copor cOlored silk pet
ticoat or foundation jupe.
More splendid than any other fabric /
yet seen are some of the vests and
panels and inserted vandykes on the
very. very advanced black toilets
These costly scraps of material are
ccppery hued velvet, with gold and sill
yer threads shining out from the silk
mesh. The letting in of vandyl1es and
the insertion of a color under braiding,
lace or embroidery shows signs,
although now in its incipiency, of be-
coming a decided and prevalent fash
ion likely TO influence future dressmak-
ing, and if our modes are to be taken
from the new importations seen at the
leading watering places, then we may
make up our minds to hook and button
all our winter frocks under the left
arm Only the commonplace bodice
comes together in front for a free field.
for decoration across the bust is de-
,nanded by the dressmaker who leads.
Of course women may grumblesagain
this last order, but nevertheless a more
gracious and becoming waist is the re-
suit of the under-arm hooking.
PICTURESQUE SLEEVES.
Any woman with two intelligent eyes
in hef. head and a reasoning brain back
Of her eyes needs only to watch a well
sostumed Casino group or take notes
along the drives at Bar Harbor. New
port, etc, TO receive two or three very
positive and refreshing impressions.
The first of these relates to the pic
.uresque sleeve Of the day. It is close,
50 close that when made by an artist
t hugs the arm without a wrinkle and
rolls up from the small cuff that over
spreads the knucl1les clear up to the
arrnpits. Here, like smoothly drawn
Kid glove. the sleeve opens bell shape
around a small puff, which rather re-