The record-union., 1898-09-11

i broidery beyond Other gowns are
made like a princesse dress, but fast
! ened up the left side, with full front
| and a yoke effect at the top, formed by
| narrow tucking of the goods, with lines
of insertion between; or, an entire lace
piece covers the yokes. A tiny crescent
shaped puff edged with narrow lace is
| placed al the top of the sleeves, with
wider frills at the wrists. On other still
| more youthful dresses that fasten at
the back, graceful little bretelles extend
| over the shoulders, or there is a simple
| picturesque Marie Antoinette fichu with
| long sash ends, the whole finished with
| lace edged frills and of material match
| ing the gown. Any of these dresses
| would make appropriate and pretty
models for morning gowns next season
made of nuns yelling or French challi.
|
! The chief characteristic of fashions
present show is it's infinite variety, its
modified and graceful designs and out
| lines, and endless styles, affording an
| unlimited choice of models suited to
| any peculiarity of form, face or fea
| ture. There has been a great rage for
| brilliant color effects, but as a rule
| lHtSt ISIdHStS nave DeSH tOueu anu
artistically combined, and we have be-
come entirely accustomed to the once
! most impossible union of odd colors Per-
sonal choice and individuality in gown
| ing are everywhere apparent, and thus
perfectly attired women are seen ev-
| erywhere among the refined class of So
| city, particularly at the fashionable
| summer resorts, where all the nice
| phases in modern gowning are best
| studied. Consistency is another char
| acteristic that is receiving especial at
| tention, and gowns and garnitures,
| jewels and laces are all appropriate to
their own particular time and place.
| OF course there are very noticeable de-
partures from this progressive and ar
| tistic state of things, but, as a whole,
| our American women are undoubtedly
| the best dressed people in the world.
| We are not treated any longer to the
| sight of an elaborate white lace parasol
| carried en- suite with a cotton gown.
however smart and pretty that same
cotton gown may be. Neither do we
| behold, as in days past the very absurd
| sight of diamond jewelry worn either
with morning or travelling costumes, no
! matter how elegant these costumes
may be. One strange thing however,
was noticed this season at very cele-
brated watering place, and that was
| the wearing of superb diamond earrings
| by women of wealth and social standing
| who were attired in the sable gowns of
! mourning.
! Very handsome fabrics for stylish
autumn tailor gowns are those of soft.
beautiful Venetian cloth-its smooth.
light surface is like velvet - manu-
factured in shades of Russian green.
a red and dark blue pale silver blue.
hues that are rich but also deep in
| tone; damson, a superb reddish plum
! shade, golden brown, tan, gray. and
black. These elegant materials will be
made Of one fabric with handsome silk
gimps and tailor buttons by way of
trimming, or combined with silk vel
vet, fine woods in fancy effects. or.
richest Of all, lustrous corded silks of
q matching shade, with added garni-
| lures of velvet on the waist portion.
! Among the most generally becoming
| colors of the season before us will be
the damson dyes and a varied class of
similar plum tints, like dahlia, petunia,
| etc.
|
The sailor hat of '9S is a faithful
copy Of the rough straw shapes worn
by men. 1t has a lower and less OBJ
long crown than the sailor hats of
year ago, and there is no short ba ck'
effect, for the brim is of one width
around, affording no great protection
for the face, and as a rule not improv-
ing in its appearance as it has too
narrow a straw aureole for the ma
jority of heads and faces. 1t cannot.
by any process of reasoning be called
"dressy," but it is neat and practical.
and no other style of hat, for certain
uses, can take it's place Even when
worn on dress occasions, as it very
often is, in chip or fancy braid. it is
generally devoid of trimming. save the
usual ribbon band In dark colors. in
bright red also, and black. these same
shapes will be worn through the entire
| autumn season
The new long dust cloaks and redin-
gotes-riding coats being their original
name-are either elaborate or of useful
character. For instance. those of fig
ured silk, lined with plain silk. repeat
ing one of the colors on the patterned
fabric, and decorated with lace and
ribbon, are in one sense more for or
nament than use. though they serve
to protect the dress beneath Oftener
than not the gown that is thus covered
is not designed for view. and is only
an excuse for wearing the over-gar-
ment, which is. indeed, the piece de
resistance of the toilet. The more use
full dust cloaks Of mohair or even of
tussore, in the peculiar creamy brown
or the material, trimmed with the pop
ular cloaking lace of the season. are
pretty enough to satisfy the most ex-
acting; and the surface of either of
these materials is eminently calculated
to resist dust. The autumn models
are cut with fitted princesse backs and
semi fitting fronts, some of which fast
en- from throat to skirt hem others in
true redingote fashion, being open to
show a portion of the dress eneath
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