The times., 1898-05-29

New York. May 2S.-Whether she has the
silver to spare or not, every woman dress
ed for an occasion of any dignity Just
now wears the combined result of the
cocoon and the mulberry tree. Never
have there been so many different and
lovely weaves Of silk on the market be-
fore. Satin faced foulards rule the morn
ing hours. Bayadere stripes on raw and
finished taffetas queen it in the after
noon. while brocades and crepes, Bengal
satin damasl1s, Tussore, Damascus ere
pons and Paduasoy dominate in ball
rooms and at dinner parties. A degree OF
sensation has been aroused over the re-
Vival OF that silken goods that our Tore
mothers in the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries wore, and the rich and beautiful
Paduasoy now on sale is all carefully re-
produced from specimens of the silk pre-
served In museums. Because OF its splen-
did interviewer decoration, this silk Is es-
pecially utilized for the lengthy trains
that matrOus assume, for panel fronts
and for ---e vests Of very gorgeous visit
ing gowns. IL lends Itself. by reason OF
its stately quality. 10 the bold colorings
now The mode, and in a deep true cop
per yellow porphyry purple and glowing
malachtte green. or fame red il appears
on toilets Of great ceremony.
OF things silken has come the goodly
Ottoman weave and the chine effects al
so. while on this topic st is quite impossi-
bic TO pass over the charms of a new
version OF MORE Yelours. Now We have
Il as velours sOleil. or sun vslOurs, differ
ing from its predecessor in that both its
sides are alike. while instead of falling in
very soft folds ii now crisps and rustles
like q tafleta. Any woman who IS In
IN q ne "a 81
OF a silk may hold 10 this truth that at
all times and seasons a MORE Is safe
purchase. At this very instant there Is
a particular taste displayed for regal
sort Of weave known as nacre moire.
This is a silk white as an angels wing,
and showing waving stripes Of white sat
f. over il. Every satin ripple is outlined
with a thread Of pale blue, which really
does not look blue. but by some secret
known only 10 the Weavers, merely lends
clearer. more dazzling Witness to the
folds and surface Of the fabric. Less
costly than any Of the silken types de-
sc-ibed above and Yet as popular as any,
while more suited TO young women, IS our
old-tried friend crepe de chine. This is
10 the fore now in lovely pale tones with
bullion threads crossing the width in bay
adcre stripes. or Jess expensive stiI print
ed in tiny marEueriJes and periwinkes,
on a white or rosy ground
The busy little bus-le is at Il again,
paiusta alinsIy trying 10 creep into favor
and always finding q certain coterle Of
women willing 10 put ii on probation and
their backs. Up 10 the present Ga-e II Is
no larger than ones two fists and IS
worn as an odd little hump Of wire and
noh4ir close up ID the waist line. No-
men who have not Yet bent before the
busla fetish wear strange boned petit
coats. The bones run IN caSingS from
Uais- line 10 hem. following q bias in
Cliuatiau. and while holding out the over
6reSS most stauchly, they do not fail TO
add tremendous weight about the hips. To
avoid Wearig these bOned under draperies
q number Of the thoughtful and inventive
have run hoops Of thinnest steel, no wider
nor thicker than a baby ribbon. through
the rear widths Of their skirts. This is a
rather more hygenIc solution Of the
busle problem than any plan yet at
tempted but dressmal1ers who know a
thing or two insist that with the coming
IN OF princess fashions. bustles must and
Will assume an important place in every
wardrobe
There never was a time when the dress
maker levied more freely for ideas on the
fashion plates Of sixty years ago than
now The mitten sleeve Of '3S is one Of
the reincarnations Of that bygone day we
have fallen heir to. and IL is obvious that
We viii soon fal into the way Of wear
our mothers hearts. One can already
buy pretty examples Of these in the shops
made II the finest French batiste, deli
cately worked in embroidery stitch and
caught close about the waist by muslin
bands and fine Old-fashi0ned gold cuff
buttons. To wear with these il is neces-
sary that the dress sleeves should have
the far5ng cut broad and hanging open
at the band; though so far the effect Of
the uudersleeye is usually given on shirt
waists and the new walking coats are
cut al the wrists 10 exhibit the Wearer' 5
fine white linen.
There is no telling how long this fancy
may last. bur for the moment. at least
numbers of very discreet women are
wearing contrasting skirts and waists.
For example a skirt OF white Ottoman
silk will he finely striped from waist band
10 hem with narrow black silk braid. laid
or IN Spanish circles; with this a waist OF
cafe au lait faiIle will be donned, the gold
en- t!ut OF the silk relieved by broad re
vers embroidered in white and blue. open
ing over a vest Of black and white, to
match the skirt. Always the motif from
the skirt Is brought In somewhere about
the body. 10 show the relationship be
tween the TWO. and the leading cOmbina-
tio@s Of this sort are made with a skirt
Of gray cloth and blue, yellow, green,
or red silk waist. having gray cloth intro
duCed at some point i'm its makeup.
Tau wlre plumes waved in every little
bonnet during the Winter, and now that
combs and flowers and divers other pret-
aiueSses are considered appropriate for
the c1iGure. women are wearing huge
white satin bows in the hair Of an even
ing These bows are made in three loops
10 a side and are built in the form of the
high comb now 50 very popular Higher
and higher climb the lo0ps and puffs and
bands Of hair as The season advances,
and more and more abundant become the
iittlc bob curls Chestnut gold is the
fashionable tint Of hair at the present
writing. II Is even more .craved by those
who have II not than the once coveted
blonde locke. AS a matter Of fact, ma
ture rarely bestows this rich tinting on
the head Of the American woman for the
pure chestnut is an English feature and
one very hard to initiate with any degree
Of success.
The curly bang. after season or two
OF suppression. is beginning TO fringe out
rather luNuriantly again. Il runs in a
row Of coQuettish little curls from
ear 20 ear over the forehead. while those
women who suffer from too extensive
spread Of brow are adopting a very clev-
er style Of water wave. Instead of plas-
tertng Wisps Of sOapy hair fiat to the fore
head q broad bandeau Is drawn down.
within a half inch OF the eyebrows, and
then deeply fluted by the irons.
This is one of the softest frames a
face can be set in. and when the waves
are properly made and adjusted they
give the face a peculiarly tender and
plaintive expression. Women whose locks
are undeniably turning and who are
too courageous TO yield 10 the blandish-