Omaha daily bee., 1898-11-20
FASHIONS FOR THE WINTER.

Captivating Novelties of Home Ind
Foreign Design.
y NEW YORK. Nov. 1s.-The dressmaker
who. by taking thought, can add an inch
TO feminine stature Us a captain In her art.
and French modiries assure us they have
achieved this desideratum b. cutting the
front breadths Of skirts wy long. 1t Is
quite wonderful what a Frightening effect a
few ground scraping inches Of cloth will
have. as the usual clothes carnival during
horse show week bore witness. Women
who. In golnng petticoats are girlishly small,
seemed stately as Dianas In their cloth and
fur suits with skirts so long they were
Obliged to save their noses by holding the
front widths Clear OF the earth. Indeed 1t
Is necessary to acquire a long flowing Gid
Ing step in order to carry these lengthy
draperies with good style, and to procure
the proper fall Of starchless grace the crisp,
frilfy petticoat has been cast aside.
No woman who makes any pretensions to
good taste Is any longer accompanied In
her movements by the silken. sad, uncertain
rustling Of taffeta. The musical wish
wish Of silk friction against silk Is heard
no more and II you had asked any OF the
wen dressed creatures who futtered in
smaller but none the less modish crowds
last week uDOuI l0c euullc " NV"
she achieved the hushed ~clinging Of her
cloth or satin garments, she would have
told you Of her crepe-dc-chine under petit
coat. The crepe-de-chine skirt Is Of course
q French idea. developed FIRST for the benefit
OF Lady Kerso. hitherto Mrs. George Curzon,
who has ordered a very exquisite trousseau
in which to make her vlceregal debut In
Calcutta. II was only a question OF a few
days when this detail OF comfort and beauty
crossed the ocean and already they are
blushing and paling in u score OF colors
In the shops where wealth and beauty pro-
cure their plumage.
M For n Viceregal Debut.
For Lady Kelso they were made as long
"a, the skirts under which they were to be
worn and OF the heavy silk crepe with a
dash Of wool In 1t that possesses both body
and a surprising amount OF warmth. The
majority Of the imported ones are for day
wear OF black. old blue and resin brown and
deliberately embr idered. In most delicious
pale tints they are made up for the even
ing and on them are applied trails OF yellow
and scarlet velvet peoples. Now, a crepe
de-chine petticoat may seem a rank ex-
travagance. but any woman who Will buy
aud wear the best crepe in the market and
trim her skirt with founces OF Russian net.
ornamented with lines Of bebe ribbon. will
enjoy an amazing amount OF hard wear In
It. The Partisan skirts are all made to lie
perfectly fiat about the waist and hips G 7
90. deeply gnrcd from the knees down thai
at the foot they measure five or six yards
In width.
Another impression that horse show
week left on those whose souls are turned
to beauties Of raiment. and who haunted
SIN AnphorLr ptpu In IN rpnrntnO uy0rn thu
numbers OF fair visitors who. when they
unlocked their coats or capes for fresh air.
showed silk waists with fat necks. 1t Is
Just as we'll to premise by saying that you
must be distinctly young. and c%olunnar
throated to cut on your basque collar. and
during the horse Show week many, collar
Less bodlces oesigreat comeltness were OBJ
ssrved at the.thcater. They seem indis-
putably to sutt..well with the hatless stole
In which womeM are now obliged to attend
the play, and a certain impression OF the
full dress Is loaned by the display Of white
throats.
A pretty lowered satin dressy waist. hav-
ing q lace, front aud being judiciously en-
HANGED with fur. is brought up fiat as Far
assthe neck. and the wearer IL apt to wind
q yard Of mock pearls where the choking
collar used to be or %encircle the slender neck
with several rows Of deeply pink coral
beads. In fact. q whole series Of old and
new style necklets and dog collars have
been called out by this fashion. for no
woman goes TO see horses or her ~favorite
players with a bare throat. A band Of very
extravagantly jeweled lace caught with a
handsome bro che, an endless very fine
chain of gun metal, punctuated with Rhine
pebbles or a scarf Of chiffon wound about
"a kt.A L.. . hl- hao, In Aha raar ora aDnnno
the notions that serve as detachable collars
for these waists.
Smart Morning Collars.
This discussion leads naturally to mention
Of another method Of topping of morning
suits as signifed at the recent show. The
women who still cling to tailor-made tradi-
tons wore neat. high white linen C liars
with their dark cloth suits. The collars
had long points In front that folded down
nat over the ties, while a circular comb
shipped piece Of linen stood up, crisp as a
lily leaf. back Of the ears. Around such q
collar was wound In every case q scarf
made OF bias and surah, cut very wide. very
long and Of some delicate tint. Twice about
the neck this was drawn and tied In front
In a double bowknot with arrow head ends
falling nearly to the waist line.
Some women used with the above men
TONED collars long scarfs Of Liberty silk.
with Persian pattern ends. and some used
q broad satin ribbon tied In q wide bow
under the chin, q bow without ends. and its
middle made fast by a brooch.
The exceeding length OF sleeves was
everywhere emphasized by the gowns that
such women as Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt.
jr., beautiful Mrs. Norman Whitehouse and
equally lovely Mrs. Dana Gibson wore.
Their sleeves were cut to fall beyond the
knuckles. else long cuffs and very wide
ones. too. were set on to almost conceal the
hand. Down near the wrist these ONE
sleeves gripped their arms closely and II IS
evident that before very long those who
possess really handsome arms Will be wear
ang sleeves to display every contour from
shoulder to fingers. At one Of the early
autumn dinners sleeves wrought wholly of
very OPEN WORKED Jet and Of pearl or colored
passamenterie made their appearance and
promise 70 TAXI the place OF the iong-loved
lace and chiffon sleeves.
New ShOes
The long gowns aforementioned need not
DO regarded a. In the least obliterating on
the charms of we'll modelled e~Ntremities.
Pretty shoes and slippers In fact have never
been 30 strangely conspicuous as this sea
son. when trailing front breadths must be
held high when the wearer takes the least
exercise. It is 10 be observed that cloth
topped shoes are having q return Of feminine
patronage and that coored patent leather
wanna are absolutely the only kind for dress