davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-11-19
More Popular Than Ever Because Of
Its Comfort.
DRESS-UP SLEEVES FIT CLOSELY
Proper Neck Fxings and Quick
Ways to Make Them.
SILK STOCKS OR LAWN BANDS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

NEW YORK, November H. 1898.
The shirt waist fever RACES more vio-
lently than ever. First it was authorita
lively announced that separate waists were
on the wane. This came direct from Paris,
but the winter styles and models contained
among them many separate waists. Then
we were told, and all observed for our
selves, that as early as the convention Of
club women in Denver shirt waists were
eschewed at formal gatherings, at no mat
ter what hour Of the day they Were held.
This last fact was not as momentous as
the daily papers tried to make it. It has
never, during the long reign of the shirt
waist been the custom of well-dressed wo-
men to wear them at any formal functions.
although separate waists have been seen
at even balls at the height of their pop
Ularity.
So, in spite of the disappearance of the
shirt waist from places where it never
Evening star., 1898-11-19

gauze so airy as to be nothing more than
cobweb. The low bodice with its short
sleeves combines the same materials.
Nowadays girls come out so much older
than they used" said a woman who Is look
ing forward to the blossoming of her own
bud, a girl of nineteen or thereabouts. Il
came out at fifteen and my sister was quite
a grown up young lady at fourteen; but
then that was in New Orleans. In these
times girls stay in the school room till
they're twenty And it's good scheme If
they re to marry SO much older"
This lady's daughter is no older at nine
teen than some girls of the old regime must
have been at fifteen, and she will look very
young and very much of a beginner in the
somewhat quaint dress that has baen plan
ned for her, of white cloth with guimpe
neck of white chiffon and lattice work of
white chenille covering the bodice. The
skirt is to have a f1ounce of white accor-
dion plated chiffon of a moderate width
in front, but rounding up to the waist be-
hind and edged about with chenille. The
sleeves will be long. close and chenille
trimmed. An afternoon early in December r
has been chosen. and while people are nib
bling their biscuit or dawdling with their
tea spoons a new society aspirant will be
launched most unobtrusively.
Fans Small. but Elegant
Young girls, like older women carry only
small fans. the so-called Recamer designs
being most in demand. Long chains of
pearls or coral are used to attach them
to the neck or occasionally chains of old
fashioned crystal or Russian enamel Inc
prettieSt buckles at present are copies of
old paste; others are of gold set with the
green stones now in favor, beryls or chryso-
p,ase There are not many new things in
chains. the grotesque monkey and the
lucky pig holding much the same fascina-
ton they had in the summer
Earrings WheA seen are pearShaped drop
Evening star., 1898-11-19
ARTISTIC HOMES.
Some Hints on Furnishing and Dec
Grating That Are Timely.

rIoHl ilaFDef BdZar.
A home is never completely effective with
out the expression of the individual taste of
its occupants. With all the details of fur
nishing carefully supplied and the har-
monies of color observed, there is some
thing missing if the personal element is
not evident
The remembered homes that one carries
in mind are the characteristic ones-those
which bear the impress of our friends in
terests, and in which their belongings DIFF
fuse the atmosphere of the people they
represent These homes are not made with
mushroom rapidity; they are developed with
the gradual expansion of the family life
ana no experiments are needed to make
an abode distinctive and beautiful If the
particular needs of its inmates are cared
for in an original artistic manner
In locking over ones house to make the
necessary renovations for the winter one
can always make some Improvement that
will carry the decorations and furnishings
a step forward to the IDEAL The abandon
ment Of the old-time fall cleaning, in house
holds where the general use of rugs has
taken the place of carpets, has saved a
measure of time and strength that NAV
well be appropriated to some specific end
in interior decoration.
Absolute rules for furnishing cannot well
be laid down by one who lives outside of
another's environments. The requirements
of one household vary with the next: tastes
differ as radically as opinions But To anv
one who is intent upon bringing about the
eternal fitness OF things in house apart
ment. or the one room that Is his castle,
Evening star., 1898-11-19
FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF
\ New Device That VIII Dispose oi
Ii Satisfactorily.
From the New York Herald.


From the New York Herald
1t has long been question with women,
and a matter Of anxiety. just what to do
with their pocket handkcrchiefs nowadays.
Even the new woman must have a hand
kcrchief. but the new woman's gown is
fashioned with but little regard for the safe
keeping of this very necessary article of
apparel.
The tight-fitting skirt permits of no old
time buiging and handy pockets. Such an
Introduction into the shcathlike fit of the
fashionable skirt would be someth hing en-
tirely unheard Of and unallowable and yet
so far no one seems to have contriyed a
substitute for the necessary square of linen
which must be carried by rich and poor
alike.
Some maidens contracted the habit of
tuCking the dainty, fimsy, lace-trimmed
tritie up the sleeve, but this to many sa-
VOred too much of the Heather Chinee" :"
Then 1t became the fad to tuck it into the
purse, but this, too, was soon abandoned,
as it proved ruinous to any handsome pock-
etbOok.
There is never want but what there is
found a supply for 1t, and so in the case of
the handkerchief holder. The difficulty has
been met and conquered apparently and
the autumn belt comes forth with a new
clasp attachment. 1t is made of oXidized
or hligree silver, and is worn on the right
side, directly under the arm.
The favOrtte handkerchief for the fall is
made of the thinnest, sheerest material
possible, and is finished with a narrow hem
One corner is embroidered with a large and
heavy monogram. the larger the better. 1t
is 10 be worn fastened directly In the CEN
ter of the belt clasp and tucked in so that
the corner containing the monogram shows
plainly. For the patriotic girl there are
handkerchiefs embroidered with a regi-
mental decoration or the stars and stripes
" he vii
strings private signals of yachts or clubs
are in evidence.
Evening star., 1898-11-19
>EAsoNABIE SUGGESTIONS.
" hat To Do to Prepare Your Garden
for the Winter.
Fr,m H1rpo-'s Bezar.

Fr.m H5rpo-'s Bear.
Thare Viii be considerable work to do in
the garden this month in getting ii ready
f.r Winter. Go over it and gather up and
remove all the Debris which has collected
in the flower beds. Cut down the dead
stalks Of the pcrcnuials. and pun up what
j. left Of the ANIMALS. and burn all refuse
ot this kind. or bury it, where 1t will decay
ANA help TO fertil4zc the soil Of the garden
There may b" no flowers during the winter
hut uettness should prevail where they
have been. Store away flower stakes and
trell.seS. and give 10 all plants needing it
such protection as was advised in a former
article
Now is a good time 10 prune any shrubs
which were neglected during the summer
when they We're making growth. If too
thick. thin them out. SO that the branches
you leave may have room for healthy de-
NCI0pmeut. Remove all weak or injured
wood. II the plant is awkward in shape
trim II into more symmetrical form. But
be sure OF the character of your plant
Prune no shrub in fail which blooms in
SPrlng from buds formed this sea son. Only
plants winch produce flowers on a growth
Of branches made next spring should he
prunod now.
cut the clematis back to within two or
three feet Of the ground, and lay down that
portion Of stalk which you leave, and cover
it well.
1t Is an excellent plan to put manure
about an ECrbaceSus. plants in fall. 1t not
only furnishes a sort Of protection, but its
tertIhztEg properties are set free by fall
rains. and are absorbed by the soil to the
benefit Of the plant IN spring. what is left
can be dug into the soil.
Plants in the window garden should have
the best OF care Al this season, for il is a
critical period with them. Aim to keep the
temperature Of the room low. and To give
them all the fresh air possible. Be careful
about overwhelming and -. no fertilizer.
Avoid - far as possible anything that will
have tendency to excite growth AT a time
utn conditions are UufaVorahle to it.
FuchslaS will have completed their work
for the season. and should be dried off
gradually. to get them ready for the cellar
10 which place they should be taken by the
ErSt OF December. to remain until the first
OF March GIVE less and less water while,
tEcJ remain upstairs. II the foliage drDps
The plants viii not suffer Plants out-cf-
DOORS crop their leaves in fall. and YOU are
I\lHE TO treat yOIr fuChS!as as nature
treats them. thrysanthemums should re-
SelNe the same treatment.
Go over the windows at which plants are
TO be kept and see that all cracks and
EreYsteS are closed against the admission
OF frost. An ounce Of prevention is worth
pound Of cure, remember.
Evening star., 1898-11-19
ChatelaiHc Eancies.
From the Philadelphia Press.

From the Philadelphia Press.
Novelties in jewelry are to be expected at
this time, well as novelties in other
lines. The crystal heart. clear white and
colored. is much in evidence. Among lot
of new chatelaine holders it is a prominent
design, set in bright and oXidized silver.
II appears also among new garter buckles.
pretty five-chain chatelane has the
usual pendants. the link purse court pIas-
ter case. pencil, bon bon box and pungent.
Sometimes a whistle is added to the col
lection. If one can be content with an or
dinary chatelaine set of silver of neat de-
sign the cost is reasonable, but the wealthy
maid demands that each article be rare
and unique. In silver the purse may be
had for So: the pencil. 81; the tablet, 81 so;
the bon bon box, $50. and the pungent,
ST. 10 81. Long chains are still popular.
Besides those of silver and gold, many
fancy ones are being shown. One of these
consists of alternate jet and crystal beads.
Another consists of three chains of fine
black beads. held at regular spaces by
fancy bead clasps Hat pins are most or
nate, showing big colored stones, circles
with small ones. Silver bangles bearing
inscriptions from Shakespeare in old En-
silsh letters are pretty souvenirs
III pays to read the want columns of The
Evening star., 1898-11-19

which blouses slightly, puffed bayadere-
wise from the waist to the decolletage
while a graceful bertha arrangement is
drawn about the shoulders. Another
slightly more elaborate but still girish. is
of a soft white Liberty satin with Il mar
row rutfie al the hem and three bands of
chenille embroidery passing ribbon-like
around the skirt and finishing in front with
true lovers knot and ends. The low bodice
biouses somewhat and the V-shaped front
is filled with lace and chenille.
One of the earliest debuts will be that of
a girl who has the burden on her shoulders
OF keeping up certain family traditions, her
mother and grandmother having both been
famous bellies. Following the modern idea
which makes white cloth and white satin
appropriate for grandmOt hers. while sweet
sixteen may appear quantity decked in
black velvet and jewels, the coming-out
dTeSS. now in the modSte'S hands will be
OF white lace. but of lace so Softened by
Graping over mOuSseline de sole as to lose
us aggressive air of too great richness. The
dtSlgn of the costume is of the utmost sim
phcity-round waist, belt finish and round
decoliete neck, with touch or two of pink
velvet for color
Easy to BE Thankful With This
y dress whose first appearance will be
made at Thanksgiving gathering. which
is to mark informally the coming out OF a
pretty Brooklyn girl. is of white silk with
a deep founce of white chiffon partly COW
ering the skirt. The chiffon founce itself
Is hmShed with three or four chiffon ruches
full. narrow and half hidden by a lace
Evening star., 1898-11-19
The Coming Hat.
From the London Mail

from the LONDON Mail,
FOR the approaching winter the bowler
ana the SILK hat are both being made some
what higher than they were last year, and
the crown of the former will show some
slight tendency to taper
A new departure has taken place in the
felt of which the bowler is made This
has far silkier and more glossy look than
what has hitherto been seen in England
and the new hats are decidedly ''Frenchy''
in their appearance.
They undoubtedly look well for town
wear, but an ordinary dull felt hat is more
in keeping with the lounge suits so much
worn at the present time.
Evening star., 1898-11-19
Curling Hair With Ribbon.
rom the New York Herald

An inventive genius has come to the wo-
mems assistance with a very ingenious con
nivance. and made II possible for a woman
10 curl her naturally straight locks and yet
not be guy during the process.
This Is done by the use of a set OF hair
pms and small rods and bits of baby rib
b"h OF the hue desired The hair is wound
in and out on d hair pin and a niece OF rib
ION, which has its two ends left out. When
ms Is completed the ends of ribbon are
tled IN pretty little bow. the hair pin
sHpped out. and there you are. with your
hl!r done UP on ribbon
Evening star., 1898-11-19

founCe caught to the same heading. The
bodice is Of lace and chiffon over silk with
a band of chenille embroidered silk at the
neck.
The girl for whose debut dance is given
chooses for it the most diaphanous of
robes. FOR the younger set this winter the
favored ball dresses will be of tissue over
tissue; all white or delicate Colors peeping
cut through mists of other colors. One
such costume just imported has a skirt of
white silk and over this one of gauZy net
tWinklIng with silver sequins and over this
Evening star., 1898-11-19

pearls with diamond above Some pretty
copies are made of old crystal earrings with
big loop standing away from the ear and
underneath a round fiat crystal set in a
rim of silver. All the new earrings have
contrivances for fixing them without the
this concession thare is no likelihood that
they Will become really popular. Women
VINO wore earrings in their youth are glad
or chance to bring out their old treas
ures but the young girls, the girls who are
coming ont, fight shy of them
Evening star., 1898-11-19

then they made them too full. but now
they have reached the golden mean, and
well cut and fitted shirt waists are within
the reach of everybody's purse.
The materials used are legion. fine
French flannel Is perhaps the smartest ma
terial just now. The red and green fan
mel shirt waists are popular for golf and
are worn with a golf cape by women who
do not care for the little red or green jack
cts. Purple flannel waists are much worn
during second mourning and are much
better in their effect than black flannel or
black China silk or taffeta. Just at present
dark red or dark blue, or even bright blue
flannel waists are being made with "A bla ok
stripe which bars them and gives them
the effect of a plaid These are in very
good taste and very bright on cold winter
days Corduroy is still used and Velveteen
Is seen in all combinations. Eelveteens in
large plaids are very bright and rich look
ing and seem more formal than flannel
hence may be even more worn to excuse
the absence of the bOned and fitted waist
aforesaid which is reposing in the ward
robe. Since the polka dot craze has be
come so pronounced one hesitates to men
ton the popularity of the polka dotted vel
vet and velyeteeu shirt waists. 1t hardly
seems possible that they cannot sur
vive the oblivion into which polka
dotted materials will surely sink if they
do not stop thruSting themselves so glar-
ingly upon the retina OF the eye that the
sight of them will become unendurable.
Just now. however, there is nothing much
pIetier than these selfsame polka dotted
shirt waists in brown, blue and even gray
ana green VelVeteens. The polka dots. il is
needless TO say. are white
Evening star., 1898-11-19

fined to the golf links and to summer wear
W SN'rt waist of this day and date,
l.; > may be the material employed,
biouses quite perceptibly, has five small
tucks on each side of the collar to hold the
fullness Uhis takes the places of shirrs or
gathers), and sleeve large enough to
stand out straight at the top for half an
inch. This fullneSs at the top OF the sleeve
may be gathered. may follow the latest
coat model and be laid in box plaits. The
sleeve is long and has a straight cuff,
which is fastened by dumbbeil link.
Where tie cuff joins the sleeve there is
usually a tiny plating, about half an inch
wide, which relieves the plainness. The
back of the waist is plain; there is only
little plating at the waist line to take in
the natural fullness of a French back. The
yoke is attached after the waist has been
cut out, and is usually pointed in the back.
The shoulder seams are not brought far
front as they were during the summer.
Usually the seam is on the true shoulder
line. Here you have the shirt waist which
is made by every firm of note in the city.
Our best shirt waist models we get at home,
for the true tnwardness of a shirt waist is
quite beyond the volatile French modiste
The severity of it, like that of the true
tailcr-made gown, is foreign to their ideas.
and they cannot successfully compete with
English and American models of frocks of
tits sort.
Can BE Well Made Home
During the first two years of the shirt
waist reign it was necessary to go to a
good shop and have ones waists made
or go to a tailor, buy very high-priced.
ready-made ones. If one wished to. get the
smart cut and finish. But time and ex
perience have awakened the ordinary dress
maker to the Importance of this little gar
ment. and now II one takes the precau-
ton to get good pattern there is not the
slightest reason why one cannot have shirt
waists made at home most successfully At
nrst dressnaksrs skimped on the material,
Evening star., 1898-11-19
Easily Fixed.
From Puck.

Squire Waterbury-"Whats good for a
bad cold, Ezra?
Uncle Ezra Toddynip-"Take a drink of
good whisky"
Squire Waterbury-"But don't drink"
Uncle Ezra Toddynip-"Wa-al, I'll line
You, an you kin take q cigar"
Evening star., 1898-11-19

some manner. The very latest tucks are
more than tucks. They are box plaits less
than half IN inch wide with about the Sa me
distance between them. To make waist
Of this sort ii is necessary to first box
plait the silk to be used and then cut out
the waist. This waist cannot yet be had
in even the SmaTtest shops so il is well TO
have one made by a modste or at home if
one has n very good pattern. for the lines
are the same as that Of the ordinary waist,
only there Is all this elaborate box plait-
ing 10 be done before the silk is cut at all
There is a determined effort to make the
white linen collar less prominent and the
tie more ohtrusiVe. The consequence is
that one sees shirt waists with a narrow
turnover land of white showing about the
neck, and below that a wide tie, going
around th' leck twice. tied with two small
bows an vide ends, which reach nearly
10 the v 4. The ever-present polka dot
has inva' i the ribbon used for these ties.
and orani or lemon-colored ties with black
polka dots are to be seen on all sides. The
orange and lemon seem 10 be about the
most popular but there are ties of every
Tor with polka dots on them. Then there
are beautiful striped ties of gorgeous-hued
silks. which cost pretty penny If one in
duigeS in the luxury of buying them at
mems furnishing shops, but which can be
had for about a quarter of the asking
price if one looks carefully at the design
buys good silk and copies il at home.
Very Little Linen Shows
Then there are ties with square. formal
looking ends, making the butterfly bow
or the bat wing. But whatever tie is worn
1t is customary to cover the collar as much
as possible. Many of the collars are only
narrow turnover bands, which fasten to
the ties before they are put around the
neck
Many of the ready-made shirt waists
come with a collar or stock of the material
of which they are made. This gives an op-
portunlty to wear all sorts of fancy stocks,
but is not quite as much in keeping with
tailor-made effect a narrow band of
white about the neck. Silk waists invaria-
bly, have fancy stocks. and If they do show
a white band above them it is of the finest
hemstitched or embroidered lawn and has
none of the stiffness of linen about il.
MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1898-11-19
silk Waists Much Trimmed.

Silk shirt waists are always worn, but
to speak of silk shirt waists takes us out
of the region Of the severely tailor-made
article into fancy waists where tuckS and
other frivolous and becoming fubelOws be
gin. Nest of the silk shirt waists. in fact
one might say all Of them, are tucked in
Evening star., 1898-11-19

If an especially light dressing is required
Tor fowl, allow to every two cups of the
stufii!ng one teaspoonfuI of baking powder
and one level tablespoon of flour mixed all
through the dressing. In seasoning, allow
a half teaspOonful each of thyme mar
Joram and summer savory
Evening star., 1898-11-19

should have been allowed 10 penetrate it
would have needed TO prophet to tell US
that the garment was quite as useful and
popular as ever for the only purpose for
which 1t should ever have been used II is
not surprising, therefore. to find it a ques-
ton Of Importance just now as to how
n any garments of this sort will be needed
II one is to spend the winter In the south
or III ira |elins. But it is little surprising
to find that women who are to spend the
winter quietly at home. heretofore are
more interested in the question of new
shirt waists than they are in fresh bali
gowns or reception toilets. The secret of
this lies in the new sleeves. These sleeves
cannot be escaped. There seems to lie re
possible way to eVade the tight sleeve. One
mas TO have it on ones best gowns which
are being made, and one is obliged. with
many a sigh. to have ones best gown
of the past altered until the sleeves on it
are also most uncomfortable. For several
years it mas been the custom of far-seeing,
economical women to have handsome
gowns made with two waists. as i is
claimed that one skirt will outwear two
waists, and. besides this, by having one
evening and one dinner waist or bodice. or
by having one waist more elaborate than
the other no matter what the manner of
making might be, one gown could be used
to double, sometimes triple, advantage.
This year one waist is made most elabor-
ately, and with sleeves which leave
leeway for putting on hats, raising ones
arms more than an inch or so, any of
the free and easy movements which were
the great feature of our old balloon pro
tuberances on each arm.
After this elaborate waist has been
accomplished at some cost and great nerve
wear the woman who owns it hangs it in
the wardrobe and proceeds to have several
shirt waists made to harmonZe with the
skirt of the gown, and these she intends to
wear on all possible occasions this winter.
only taking the elaborate waist out of its
Seclusion when she is going somewhere
W here an elaborate toilet is absolutely nee
eSsary and she find no possible excuse
for keeping her coat on. For. bear i'll
mind, that one has not only the tight sleeve
of the body to contend With-there Is the
new and tightened coat sleeve.
Ease of Movement Gone.
It is needless and useless 10 urge that the
outside coats do not have tight-fttinS
sleeves; by the time they are put on over
ciose-fitting bodice sleeve che is trussed
up like a Thanksgiving turkey. And al
though the woman of today, like the wo-
man of all past ages, is determined to fol-
low wherever the dance of fashion may
lead, she has had too pleasant a freedom
during the past year with her large sleeves,
twenty-three and twenty-four-inch waist,
generous skirt loose, soft gloves and large,
Square-tOed shoe, to submit to Il sudden
girding i'll without some mental reSerEa-
uons as TO the times and pieces at which
she will submit. Hence the extraordinary
revival of the shirt waist at the time when
every one supposed 1t would soon be con-