Staunton spectator and vindicator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1896-1916, 1898-03-17
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Out Door rGarments-Capes-Ja
-Trimmings-New Millinery-Answers.
The comparatively small size of
sleeves, does not so far affect the pop
ularity of capes and though early in
the season, dealers show them in great
variety. So much however has been
done in this direction, that the produc-
tion of many novelties is more or less
limited and most of the new capes are
much on the same order as hitherto.
An example that is the perfection OF
neatness, yet elegant in material and
finish, is made of fine quality cloth in
a dark green shade. The lining is Of
tan silk and on either side, a large open
design in passementerie, shows the
same as a contrast. A more dressy
cape has lining of black satin that is
ssen through an overlaid covering of
half inch wide rows OF black ribbon
that alternate with passementerie In
a very open pattern of the same width.
A finish on the lower edge is given by
full embroidered mousseline and the
completion corresponds. This exam
pie is in keeping with the prevalent
idea Of an open material placed above
dressy lining and is also in evidence
to show that gauzy finishings about
the neck and elsewhere, still remain in
vogue. Jackets are very short, tight
at the back, with loose fronts and COM
paratively quite small sleeves.
SKIRTS
are in transition state similar to that
which overlook sleeves last season.
Certain it is that efforts in the direc-
tion of greater ornamentation. have
been more or less successful and the
ruffling and fiouncing that was chiefly
confined to light wash fabrics, has now
extended to silks and some thin wool
goods. Black taffeta silk skirts ruffied
throughout or showing fanciful ar
rangements of flounces that depend
from apron fronts either round or
pointed, are quite in order and some
times the back shows two deep fiounces
reaching well towards the waist, with
narrow ones in front below the apron.
Other black taffeta skirts displaying
founces of the same or graduated
widths that run regularly around, are
more graceful, although more conven
tional and will be becoming to tall,
slender women.
TAILOR MADE GOWNS
have caught the infection and nine out
of ten or larger proportion seen at
Lord u Taylor's, are finished by en-
broidery. braiding bands Of the mate
rial, cordings or pipings. Such orna-
mentation is placed in many arbitrary
ways, there being no rule, but ia
vorite method in case of embroidery,
is to place it about half w$y up, leav-
ing the bottom of the skirt plain. Cor.
dings sometimes extend all over the
skirt, with corresponding finish on the
waist and sleeves or again there may
be several rows placed near together
with wide alternating spaces. An ex-
quisitely neat dress has strapped seams,
with finish of band of the material
around the waist that ends at the back
with black buckle on either side and
some distance above the bottom of the
skirt, two corresponding hands are
caught each by buckle on the left
side. Many of these new
STREET GOWNS
are made with short jackets tight at
the back and having loose fronts, but
there is more grace in such as show a
short jacket opening over a pointed
waistcoat, with chemisette and tie. An
advantage here, is the opportunity for
changing the waistcoat that can be
either to match the dress or in con-
trast of any desired character. In
view of frequent ornamentation on
skirts it may be added that plain goods
are in great demand. but mixed cloths
have q showing and after all, there
never was time when perfectly plain
tailor made skirts showed to more ad.
vantage. The desire Of
| SKIRT ORNAMENTATION
is indeed often carried to an ungrace
full or tawdry extreme. A black net
skirt showing twelve rows of narrow
black ribbon slightly full, with pas
| hoa n
ance and in notably bad taste, arr
woods showing 1ounces trimmed con
spicuously and and made over Hning
that are inharmonious as to color con
trasts. But the wish for surprises
seems to carry the day. Materials hav
ing lines or stripes that cross tn
breadth, are in unusual favor ant
tuckings woven in the goods, fall il
with the idea of skirt trimmings tina
are placed horizontally. In
MILLINERY,
the lavish placing of garniture quit
equals that of last season and a favorit
Idea is to veil rich assemblage O
flowers by net, either plain, spangled O
dotted. Beautiful little hats composed
wholly or almost wholly of flowers, ar
again noticeable and again too, ar
seen many wide bummed hats on whicl
the floral trimming is massed at tn
back or under the brim while som
severe accessory, such perhaps as bow
of black velvet or wings, are placed il
front. This reversal of the natural or
der of things, is one of those curiou
freaks which have a long life and il
keeping, is the present liking for wings
when ribbon or flowers would seem C
much the more in harmony with VIC
manly softness and Natures gentle
aspect. Colored straws are frequentl
l