davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1898-09-03
A CRITICAL Time
During the Battle Of
Santiago.
SICK OR WELL, A RUSH NIGHT
AND DAY.

The Packers at the Battle of Santi-
ago de Cuba were all Heroes.
Their Heroic Efforts in Getting
Ammunition and Rations to the
Front Saved the Day.
P. f. Butler. OF pack train No. },
writing from Santiago de Cuba, on
July %, says: 1--WE all had diarrhna
in more or less violent form. and
when we landed we had no time to
see doctor, for it was a case of rush
and rush night and day to keep the
troops supplied with ammunition and
ratious, but thanks to Chamberlain
Collie, Cholera and Diarrhea Remedy.
we were able to keep our health; in
fact. | sincerely believe that at one
critical time that this medicine was
the indirect saviour of our army, for
if the packers had been unable to work
there would have been no way of get.
ting supplies to the front. There We're
no roads that wagon train could use.
My comrade and myself had the good
fortune to lay in a supply of this med
icine for our pack. train before we left
Tampa, and | know in four cases it
absolutely saved life.
The above letter was written to the
manufacturers of this medicine, the
Chamberlain Medicine Company. Des
Moines, Iowa. For sale at Matthaei's
Pharmacy.
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

bouquets of roses In garlands. The dress is Princess shape behind, and at the sides, and is made in one piece from top to bot tom. The center of the back Is of frilled mousseline de soie, encircled on each side by the taffetas.
 The skirt is round, and made with train, and opens slightly down the front over panel of frilled mousseline de soie The front of the upper part IS in Louis XIV style, opening wide over the nous seine de soie. which is made of one piece all down without waist. It Is cut rather low at the neck and the decollete trimmed with a hanging collar of mousseline de soie edged with a double ruche of the same material. Down the front is a flounce of the same headed by ruche, and on each side are also flounces forming cascades, which come down to the ground and turn round the sides and behind. On each side of the front are scarfs of gull pure starting from the shoulder and fall ing in draped pleats below the waist.
 The corsage is fixed behind by a waist band of black velvet, which stops be- meath the arms and has round strass buckle at eac.. end. The sleeves are half length, coming just below the elbow and are rather wide. draped and gathered, and are confined to the arm by frilling of pink moussenne de soie.
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03
FOR THE BUSINESS WOMAN.

SE HE woman who earns her own
 clothes Is very liable to become
 D careless about them as she Is tired
 when she goes home and the needle gets to be an unused instrument Yet it is wonder how much can be accom- plished by an hours sewing a day. and being an entire change of employment it is really a rest.
 If work-basket Is arranged with needles and scissors and everything handy half the task will disappear. A pretty basket can be arranged on a bam- boo tripod. When buttons come off or facings are ragged 1t will prove invalu- able.
 For "best" dress that will be very in- expensive, a cheap summer silk at from twenty-five to fifty cents, if we'll chosen, makes up very prettily and will last more than a season. These cheap silks have little body and unless well lined become quickly limp. Interline the entire skirt with fiber chamois, which will give 1t the appearance and the wear of heavy silk A dressmaker will faint at the idea, but ] know from experience that 1t Is all right and if you try it you will say so and be surprised at the effect. No haircloth is used with the fiber chamois, which is in- expensive and comes in both dark and light shades. You can choose from three
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

to the other. and after that into three
 parts; @ wave the hair with the Ondula- teur Loisel; (9 after waving the back hair by the same means turn 1t up with
 the roots upright and construct the chig-
 non on the top of the head; (D take the
 center lock from the front and place a
 pad behind 1t, turn up the hair over 1t,
 giving the effect shown in the engrav- ing, and treat the sides in the same man. ner; (5) fix in the hair poppiess or roses on the side opposite to the parting. -..
 For brides headdress: QD Wave the hair all round the head; @ part it down
 the middle; (3l having made point 'appui in the hair, gather 1t together, ex-
 cept part to make the bandeaux. into
 a chignon or coques or points on the top of the head; (D make the bandeaux rath-
 CT wide and only the appearance of part ing; (O on each side of the forehead fix
 small tufts of curls en palme; (6) place on
 each side of the chignon light wreath of orange blossoms.
 The last model by Losel represents the
 back and front of fancy dress hat for the theater. made of gauge, spangled
 with jet and strass, trimmed with small black feathers. The crown is made so that the hair can pass through it.
 The firm of Cuverville makes feature of headdressing for fancy dress balls or SoireeS. One of Its most successful crea- tions is a headdress in the Louis XVI
 style, with the hair in very broad waves. turned quite up in front and at the sides,
 and forming three pads on each side of |
 curls very tightly rolled On the head is a kind of beretta of white tulle spangled
 with silver, draped and caught up on the 1 left side by strass buckle. The hat is trimmed with five ostrich feathers and an l aigrette. The headdress is made with
 marteaux poudres, one above another be- 1 hind
 1 Another headdress Is In the English | style of the eighteenth century. The hair l is turned up over the forehead and at the | sides, forming broad waves, which are continued right up to the top of the head. l At the sides are long pendent eurls. A 1 large hat of blue velvet edged with pearls
 is worn rather far back on the head, and | is trimmed with four dwarf feathers and 1 two tall ostrich feathers.
 Another design by the same hairdresser 1 Is for evening. It is composed of light rolls of hair which end over the fore head in small curls. On the top of the 1 head, slightly on the tight Is a large | curl, in which is set a spray of yellow acacia mixed with rolls; on the left side 1 is a jewel, which holds two loops of rib | bon cut to a point. In the center Is a 1 tall ostrich feather, and branch of aca- l cia falls down over the waved hair be- | hind.
 |
 At Diemert's, late Jeanne Halle, have | seen a very stylish teagown, the upper part of which is composed of a robe of
 white taffetas printed all over with large
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

limited and he Is under the necessity ot wearing the same suit several days Tn the week, he would do well to avoid cer- tain patterns which, though attractive in themselves, become prominent by too fre- quent wearing It Is inconvenient for a man If his friends and fellow-ctizens can always identify him by his clothes.
 The prevailing shades for business suits are brown and gray, which are to be had in close checks, loose checks and plain mixtures.
 They come in both rough and smooth finish, but in the lighter cloths intended for summer wear smooth goods seem tc be reasserting their supremacy. The sack suit should be made up with three but tons, and only the two lower side pockets The little change pocket has followed the upper breast pocket into oblivion. Coats are cut to medium length, not quite as abbreviated as last year.
 A novelty that some of the extremists have adopted .or sack and cutaway suits is a rough Scotch cloth known as heather which feels as coarse as bran bag. Ii Is seen in loose checks of striking dimen- sionS, for 1t Is London invention. They will probably last no more than month or two.
 owed last fall consists of indistinct stripes perhaps a quarter of an inch wide. Ir this combination there should be no con- trast, and the nearer the two shades ap-
 The blacks with very thin red or white lines, that were worn last fall are dis tinctly out of date, but the stripe effect can be had in plain black by means of g fine rib. It produces a neat effect wher made up in French worsteds. But the rib should not be too pronounced.
 The cutaway, as a semi-dress garment has had it's day. It Is now designed fol morning wear, and is made, up in the same materials as sacks. The only ap propriate coat for street dress wear is the frock, which is still made in soft yicunas and unfinished worsteds. The trousers to go with it should be of light color, with a wide and unobtrusive stripe The very newest tie is silk ascot witt flowing ends. It is unlined, and to be effectively tied must be of fine material It is tied like an ascot, except that in stead of crossing the ends at the finish one end is folded over and the other i: brought over and spread across it so tha only that one end SLOWS. Then it is per mitted to fall straight down and is nelt l in place by a pin-a small pearl is tn, l approved thing. This or the ordinary as
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

cot is the only correct form for a frock
 coat.
 suits as well. The four-in-hand persists
 as it has for years. but the scarf with
 flowing ends, known as the imperial, has
 the call just now. It is tied in close
 knot, and may be worn with the high
 turn-down collar as well as with the ordi- nary stand-up kind. The other kind of tie that will be worn is the string, which
 has found popular favor because it re veals the beauties of a handsome shirt to advantage.
 The high turndown collar should have straight edges or corners gently rounded. The edges of this and the plain standing
 collar should fit closely together in front. The new derby hat is made with fuller
 crown and a little more ample curl Of
 brim than the style of a year ago. The
 course, black. Every year about this
 derby makes it's appearance on our streets, but sensible Americans refuse to take kindly to 1t. For variation with the
 derby the Alpine is always appropriate in
 ouS man will not wear the gray with black band. Either pearl, with pearl
 band. or light brown is in better taste. The particular young man will exercise care in the selection of his shoes. The razor toe is an exiled abomination, but the extremely blunt bulldog shape is little | better. A medium rounded toe, with 8 | cap of generous length, is the most satis- 1 factory.
 The proper thing in spring gloves is | reddish shade of kid. Edam cheese comes | nearest to meeting it of any thing I know. Golf and bicycling have become such | popular sports in America that they have | come to require a distinctive dress. The 1 proper outfit for the 1898 golfer is a black l sack coat, brooches of pronounced plaid
 or check and plain brown stockings, with | French plaid tops. The cap should be | made to match the brooches or in har-
 mony with them. As golf attire is worn | off the links as well as on in the country, | a soft shirt of French muslin or percale
 with stock tie will complete the cos | tune nicely.
 | About the only new thing offered to | bicyclists this season is in sweaters,
 which have developed into much more | dressy garments than formerly. They | are made in green or red or brown, with
 white stripes about the wrists and collar
 and lace up in front.
 THE BACHELOR.
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

distinct styles of skirts. The circular. very like the one used several years ago. Is the most graceful and with the fiber chamois interuning keeps in shape, but without even when well lined is inclined to stretch in places and hang unevenly after a little wear.
 The second Is the beIl-shaped fitting tightly over the hips and below the knees faring into a deep founce. Another Is perfectly plain, gored, fitted carefully over the hips and not ffarfng noticeabiy at the bottom. This last is the more preferable for a summer silk. and finished with two or three ruffies. bound with baby velvet ribbon. makes very pretty skirt. ne bodice has high standing collar of vel vet with tiny tucks stitched in contrast ing color of silk. The stock in them is caught at the sides of the front, which is faced with baby velvet ribbon. If you have an old lace collar 1t can be cut out and appliqued onto the waist in the style so much used. Sashes are used very much and give grace to soft dress which is very eHective.
 For office or store wear, however. any thing which will become flimsy or has a "dressy' effect is out of place In large men were employed. the man at the head told me how much he admired the shirt waists and how much heater and more becoming they we're snan d,st the
 They need not be cold either, if for a corset cover an extra long-Sleeyed tight fitting underVeSt IS worn 70 take the place of the warmer waist.
 Bands for the sailor hat to harmonize with the tie and belt are pretty and these little accessories give to a shirt waist as much if not more style than many other costumes in an appropriate place Stocks are worn great deal, and are very effective and economical, worn to cover entirely light linen collar. A third of a yard of taffeta silk will make one. Make it about one and a half yards long and three to five inches in width.
 White taffeta ribbon at about 25 cents a yard will wash very well, and can be done in your room. Lay it out flat on a marble basin, If you have one. If not your ingenuity will find a substitute. Be careful not to crease or rub in the hands or the threads will pull and it will look washed" Rinse it carefully up and down, and while quite wet stick 1t fiat onto a window or mirror, and when dry trim the ends and you will be the only one who will know it has been washed. All firmly, closely woven ribbon can be washed in the same way. Stocks made straightways of silk or sheer muslin clean the same way. Made of white piQue they are pretty and can. also be dried without starch or ironing on a mirror or marble table.
 It is well that shoes are not expensive | in San Francisco; they wear out so very fast The cobblestones and hills make thick-soled shoes a necessity for street wear. Calfskin with kid tops are very
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03
EXPRESSES MARRYING ABROAD.

always taking the very lowest estimate. not including those dowers under $50 ,OO0
 and naturally overlooking many alliances so quietly made that the most lynx-eyed newspapers failed to record them.'' -'
 One interesting fact still remains evil dent. Fifty years ago 1t was the rare American woman who selected hus- band of another nationality than her own, and then she did so frankly for purely ambitious motives. Before the Civil War, when millionaire's daughter captured a count or prince the whole country rang with the news, and senti- ment was entirely unacknowledged on either side. The agreement was so much money for title and position at Euro pean courts, and because American for tunes were not so large nor so numerous as at present the international marriages were less frequent. The number of these alliances increases every year, the dots grow larger and larger, and yet I find an increasing per cent of love matches.
 This last is a mitigating circumstance in what every patriotic American is bound to regard as an existing evil. To balance against the rather cold-blooded alliances made in the past five years between American women and couple of English dukes, a French count and several Brit ish earls who actually knocked down their coronets to the highest bidders, we have Miss Endicotts love match with Jo- seph Chamberlain, Miss Browns penniless beauty winning the heart of Lady Aber- deems brother, and Lady Vernon Har- courts conquest, by no golden enchant- ments. of Englands great political leader.
 Still, money remains the great link be- tween our women and the foreign men who, as time goes on, have steadily raised the prices of their empty titles, until the limit was reached at the $10,0 900 mark, trtumphantly touched by Frenchman,
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

on personal investigation, that with rare exceptions those women who marry out of the States usually resign, and in too brief time, all identity with and affec- tion for the land of their birth. It Is only necessary to meet American wives of for eign men to realize how closely the mar riage tie binds them to the country of their adoption, how rapidly they assume the foreigners reverence for those in high places, the recognition of class and &C., cept the manners and customs that their fathers or brothers would resist to their last breath.
 But if England as the notebook records, has got the lions share of our American millions France comes next on the list of beneficiaries, Germany third, and it is pleasant to find that Spain has drawn few prizes indeed from among our rich and pretty girls. It is true enough that of all titled Europeans the Spaniard Is least in- clined to make a mercenary or an alien marriage, while the English and French are the most aggressive in this particular.
 In Paris, indeed, there has recently been opened a matrimonial bureau, where a careful record Is made of the move ments of those rich American women, maids or widows, who are travelling on the Continent. At the bureau careful estimate of the young ladys fortune, a history of her family. etc., can be secured and assistance received. with view to securing introductions to desirable indi- viduals.
 Rich Americans to the Parisian for tune-hunter do not, however, simply inn ply women from the United States, but wealthy Mexicans, as well as South and Central Americans, and where young man can prove that he is with every chance of success suing for a young lady's hand enough money will be ad- yauced him for the purchase of flowers,
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

@SHE serious young man with the
 little red notebook has been gather
 ing statistics again, and this time he wishes to offer a leaf out of that small volume to the consideration or all patriotic American women. His figures are impressive and not difficult to com prehend, and he leads off with the asser- ton that in the last decade, ending De- cernber 30, 1897. round $50. 900 900 has been carried out of the United States by the T? arYdage of our daughters with citizens Gt foreign countries. Just the sum total of the amount Congress was called upon to appropriate for the defense of our .threatened seacoast.
 :. Over s2O. 900, 900 has gone to England ana France from New York City within the past five years. More in sorrow than in anger does he arrive at the conclusion that it is from the God of Love and not hls%majesty of war we suffer the greatest loss of property and the exile or many most valuable inhabitants.
 Reckoning from. the first very notable international marriage-that of Miss Patterson of Baltimore with Jerome Bonaparte-this searcher of Cupid s archives has found that not less than 68 900 .American-born women have been Induced to link their fortunes with those o of: :foreign-born husbands, "acknowledg- Ing allegiance" as his notebook formally records, Ito other governments than that of the: United States; as by her mar Tfage "a woman becomes legally a subject . of whatever ruler her mate acknowledges So have these 6s, 900 women resigned their birrhIiglrt of Uncle Sans daughters, for titles chiefly.
 .' Now, of course. when we go back so far: as Miss Patterson's rather unhappy marriage" explained the owner of the notebook, "and foot up the dowers that Accompanied the hands of these girls who chose to wed beyond the borders of their own land, the sum total of hard, bright yellow gold carried out of the States foots up to figure near 500. .000, ,00O This is
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

heir to nothing bigger than a worthless marquisate. That is the largest cash pay ment my book vouches for. though there are fifteen names set opposite the $2,000 900 mark, one leading off with s. .0O0, 900, while New Orleans alone, in dots of from s2OO 900 to s5OoO00. has contributed s1,5O0,- 900 to the big sum total 1 mentioned be- fore.
 Now. the fact of the matter is that a French, Italian or German bachelor who has a title that is old and estimated highly at the court of his country has absolutely placed his minimum price at $1000OO A shrewd New York lawyer found this out when his daughters hand was asked for by a French marquis whose name Is respected among the remnant of French aristocracy. The honest man of law, previously instructed by his wife and daughter, accepted the Marquis kindly, and mentioned that to every one of his daughters he gave a check for $25 900 by way of housekeep- CTS nest egg.
 The marquis applauded this generosity, but announced that the engagement might be considered off unless the nest egg was accompanied by three more of exact ly the same size. There was a display of paternal wrath, and the well-shod pater- nal boot, but the marquis never f1inched, and at the proper time both bride and dover were forthcoming, though the three remaining daughters went penniless to their untitled American husbands. Of all this impressive amount of money that has passed across the water England has received more than one-half the total and more women from New York State and city have made foreign marriages than from any other part of the country.
 The bitterest pill, however, that this delver among figures has rolled up for American digestion Is the assertion, based
The San Francisco call., 1898-04-03

7 7 ADDRESSING plays a very i'm Tx portant part in the completion of II a lady's toilet, and the fashions . S are as changeable as in every
 other branch of dress. The Call gives to-day a number of illustrations of hairdressing, more particularly for head dresses for the evening; also some tech nical explanations and views of some of the leading hairdressers in Paris. NM. Auguste Petit, Cuverville, Loisel and Len tneric
 NJ. Lentheric tells me that, far from lsnguishing for want of change as has been stated by some writers. the fashion in headdressing changes from day to day But 1t doubtless owing to the absence of effects obtained by colors in this branch of, fashion that the changes are not mo- tfceJ
 ::fWhat are the most marked changes at the present moment?" I asked.
 .::'An almost general discarding of arti- fr}al waving of the hair with curling irons, which was so long in favor, but 'Hhlch is too monotOnous and has nothing Eatural about it, wears out the hair and KIakes all womens heads look alike To- day Q return has been made to broad waves, and rather loose, like those which Creuze reproduced on many of his heads. One Of my staff has even discovered a means which has never been known be- fore of producing this loose and natural effect of waving in postiches without ~etting it au cordon. By this means we succeed in giving to the false front the natural effect of wavy hair slightly ralsed.'
 NJ Loisel considers that the present style of wearing the hair is ondoyant. The hair is puffed in front and brought back so as to form visor over the fore head. The bandeau Is beginning to come In again, with a parting or rather separa- . tioh of the hair in the center in front. The. nape of the neck is still entirely un- .'coKered. The chignon is placed on the top E. of: the head rather forward in the form of soft ceques or large curls. Combs are .ti1ich In fashion, and all the hairdressers use them to confine the back hair and : ad@rn it.
 For evening wear at the opera, dinners . or soirees, headdresses are ornamented with jewelry. flowers and feathers, and especially with fancy aigrettes of various . kinds. Here is a technical description of the "Sapho" headdress. which figures on the left side of the brides costume in the :: center of the page: O Parting at the side, separate the front hair from one ear