davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

like the dress. over turquoise taffetas
 The epaulets, which are rounded and embroidered. have three rows of embroid- cry round the edges, forming a cordonnet The cuffs are trimmed with embroidered taffetas fiounces, partly covering the hands and embroidered to match the epaulets. The waistband is of turquoise taffetas, simply draped
 l was show sleeveless chemisette to be worn beneath jacket. It is of -colored foulard, cut into pleats edged with Valenciennes. In the center of each lozenge is a rose of guip- ure, surrounded by gathering of Valen- ciennes, set upright The petticoat rep material, quite tight fitting half way down. The lower part is trimmed wl.h a flounce of the same material, wider be- hind than in front, and inlaid with two with a gather of wide lace.
 I have had drawing made of sky blue foulard dress, spotted with white, the spots being irregular and very far apart. The upper part of the skirt is tight, like a fourreau, and very flat in front. The fullness behind is hidden be- meath a flat pleat on each side. The en- largement begins almost suddenly about half way down and from about fifty cen timeters from the bottom 1t widens still more. The skirt is ornamented with a Greek border twenty-five centimeters In depth, composed of wide guipure inser- inlaid in the foulard. It is long all around and quite plain below the border, and is made up over an underskirt of white taffetas with wide pleated founce at the fall. The corsage Is a blouse in shape all round, but more so in front than behind. It Is cut low and square. disengaging the neck and shoulders. The neck Is trimmed round with guipure in sertion, which runs down the front on the right side to the waist. The corsage folds over from right to left, and is fas- tened with three large buttons in ame- thyst and straSs.
 The yoke above the corsage is of mauve mousseline de soie over white taffetas; the neck trimming is of the same materi- aIs draped, with a large soft bow in front and tied very closely in the center. The sleeves are tight and model the arm; they are composed of small pleats of the fou- lard taken out of the length, alternating with guipure insertion, of which there are three hoops on each sleeve. Above the elbow the foulard is without pleats. The cuffs are trimmed with lace flounces. The waistband is of narrow mauve mir roir velvet. The hat worn with this cos tune is punchinello shape, much turned up, in sky blue straw, the points being at the sides. This hat is trimmed in front with butterfly bow of mauve mousseline de soie, composed of three loops on each side closely tied in the middle.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
AN oRGANDE WAIST FOR A MIDSUMMER MORNING

, namented at the bottom with three rows of Alencon insertion. The ruche round the bottom of the scarf falls to the bot tom of the skirt
 At the same establishment 1 saw a dress of black taffetas, the skirt of which is made in two parts. The upper part is extremely tight all around the figure, and the lower part, which begins about half way down. is trimmed with a f1ounce Zen forme." The dress is trimmed all over with rich open-work embroidery, which shows beneath it an underskirt of turquoise taffetas.
 The design of the embroidery is in un- dulating lines, increasing in size from the top to the bottom The flounce is em- broidered in the same style as the upper part of the skirt the parts between the serpentine lines being filled with small designs embroidered with jet, which run thrice around the skirt at the bottom. Tn the center of the flounce is another elaboratey embroidered design. The same patterns are repeated in jet beads all over the upper part of the skirt. The corsage is soft blouse in black taffetas, em- broidered back and front in the same style as the skirt, and also over tur- ouoise taffetas. It IS high behind, but cut away in front, opening in a point over a yoke of turquoise mousselne de soie in fine pleats, alternating with open work The neck trimming matches the yoke. and the collarette is of white frilled mousseline de soie, extending only round the sides and behind. The sleeves are long and quite tight, and embroidered,
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

DOROTHY VENNER.-My answer to Marion Tyler in The Call of June 19 does not apply to moles such as you complain of. The species with which you are af- fiicted are usually congenital or else in- herited. The coloring matter which con- stitutes them is deposited in the deeper portion of the subcuticle and they are impossible to reach. There is nothing that will remove them. These little piemen- tary spots are looked upon by some as positively attractive.
 HINDA.-The curling fluid which you mention is merely a preparation to make the hair stay in curl. It is to be applied to the hair before putting up on papers or kids or braiding, as you say you do yours. There is nothing that will make straight hair naturally curly. The reason why some hair is curly is because in some people the follicle or cuticular sac out of which each hair springs and in which if is nodded has a curved or spiral form. Hairs arising from such molds naturally take a curly form. I know of no better way to wave the front hair than to braid it as you do, unless you put it up on crimping pins that come for the purpose.
 A READER.-Yes, strawberries very of- ten cause such rash. The free acid which they contain make them such a vfo- lent poison to some persons that a single dish of them will produce a rash in less than two hours. Cease eating the berries and the rash no doubt will disappear. If
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

1t does not there must be some other cause for 1t. In that case write, to me
 MARGARET F.-The treatment of pim- pies to prove successful should consist of constitutional as well as local measures. what is beneficial in one case may be in- furious in another. In the majority of eases. e however, the following lotion may drams; glycerfne F ounce; spirit of cam phor, drams; elderflower water, ounces. The face should first be washed piled. Do this at bed time, and leave on all night. The constitutional treatment should consist of systematic bathing, plenty of exercise in the open air and an avoidance of certain articles of food, such as hot bread, buckwheat cakes, pastry, cheese, nuts. chocolate and all sweet, fried and highly seasoned food, also wines
 MISS E.-I do not approve of dyes and bleaches for the. hair, and so prefer not ready light the following wash will help the yellow threads to keep their golden tints.
 It is called a lemon hair wash, and is made of one ounce of salts of tartar, one quart of water and the juice of three lem ons. Apply with small, soft brush at such times as you think the hair needs it. It is not a bleach. and Is perfectly BROWN EYES.-The question of wash ing the face seems to be one upon which no two people agree. Women do not seem to realize that what is good for one complexion is not good for another. As a rule hot water is a mistake. It makes the skin harsh and stretched and gives 1t shiny look that is anything but love- ly. It makes the skin liable to chap and If there is any tendency to coarse pores the hot water will increase it. Don't buy creams and lotions that you know nothing about. Do not use anything on the face unless you know all of the ingredients Inestimable damage is done complexions by these advertised "beautifiers," for nearly all of them contain deadly poisons in greater or less proportion. Do not use be pure If you do not happen to have one that you are sure of write to me again and I will give you a formula for one.
 The proper time to wash the face is at night before retiring, thus cleansing the pores of dust gathered during the day. Soap does not agree with all skins, and vet if you are troubled with blackheads it is almost impossible to get rid of them face brush and scrub the face with tepid water and pure castle soap each night Be sure and rinse away all the soap, then dry and put on the cold cream, rubbing it into the pores until it is all absorbed The next morning bathe the face in clear tepid water and before putting on pow der you can, If you like, put on a tiny bit of the cold cream. I feel sure that this treatment will do away with the black heads. If it does not, let me know and I will give a recipe for lotion to use in connection with it.
 CALL SUBSCRIBER.-No.
 MIME. HYGEIA.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

F WONI IR if there Is anything that
 can cause a woman more acute de-
 spair than the discovery of the first l1 wrinkle If there is, I have not yet
 discovered what it is. It is surpris- ing with what rapidity the little lines multiply after that first distressing wrinkle makes it's appearance. It seems just as though its sisters and it's cousins and its aunts, taking pity upon it's lonely estate, come and settle down with 1t for a nice, indefinite stay. And just as in the case of ones relatives, particularly those 'fn-law," who come and stay, and don't know when to go. the all-absorbing question is, How, oh how, to get rid of them"
 Of course, lines will come with years, if one thinks and feels, but with many they arrive long before there is any ne- cessity for them And there is nothing that will encourage them like wor-y or any mental disturbance. When one is bothered and out of sorts the face seems to settle into all sorts of lines. And, too, 1t has most depressing effect upon the stomach, which is connected with the brain by the most perfect and complete telegraphic system that one can possibly imagine. And, with the derangement of this organ come dull eyes, facial erup- tions and sallow, flabby skins.
 So the wise thing to do Is to protect ones self against these worrisoms little lines, and not give them an opportunity to acquire a foothold. In other words, get out the 'ounce of prevention and the pound of cure will not be neces- sary.
 This, of course, applies to premature wrinkles. Very little can be done wirh those which come with real old age.
 1 have found that the pillow upon which one sleeps is one Of the most fruitful sources of those fine lines about. the eyes, known as ''crows' feet" and the softer the pillow the more lines will they en- courage, for they push the cheeks up into little folds that give one most care-worn thing upon awakening and you will find the little Deliberations more apparent than at any other time in the twenty-four hours.
 The Japanese women use no pillows, but sleep upon block of wood, which has been hollowed out for their necks to fit into. They have proverbially fine, smooth, wrinkle-less skins
 The treatment of wrinkles lies in a hygienic method of living; taking frequent and regular exercise eating only such food as you know is good for you, and in- vigorating the muscles and skin of the body by tepid sponge baths and brisk rub fairly shines. This keeps the blood at the surface and helps ward off wrinkles. Also nourish the tissues of the face with good skin food.
 The following will be found most excel lent:
 Spermaceti 12 ounce.
 White wax, F ounce.
 Sweet almond oil, ounce.
 Lanoine, l ounce.
 Cocoanut oil, l ounce.
 Tincture benzoin, 2 drops
 Orange flower water, ounce.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
NEW THINGS
 l IN TRUNKS.

S0T N improvement on the tray trunk XM manufactured in America is the E dresser trunk of England. This is
 also tray trunk, but arranged diff ferently. Instead of the trays resting upon each other, lifting in and out from the top, they slide on rods like the drawers of a dresser, the trunk opening in front in stead of on top. This arrangement makes 1t entirely unnecessary to disturb any other part of the trunk when wishing to obtain an article which is packed in the bottom tray or drawer.
 These trunks are brought out in all sorts of designs and cubby holes, just as the chiffonier or ordinary bedroom dress cuff boxes, work boxes, jewel cases, in fact, every convenience, may be found here. or trunk may be made to order to suit the purchaser. The trays have little rings by which they are drawn out
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
}5 MORNING
ING GOWNS AND MIDSUMMER WEAR &p

upon the new colors because of the fact that they are scarce. The factories are so busy turning out army cloth and brown linen for Cuba that there is no time to work upon new colors.
 A whole volume could be written upon the summer fichu this year and upon its woman who undertakes to go away, or even to stay at home, without one of these fichus in her wardrobe. She will need it. The place of the fichu this year is something similar to that of the be- lero last year. It is used to disguise and cover the dress and make it appear like new. A fichu, properly made, will make an old cotton waist look like one of this summers creations. l saw one of these in private box of one of New Yorks famous vaudeville theaters. It was of burnt orange silk, draped low around the neck, exposing the wearer's throat. The material was China silk with the threads pulled and then caught in groups Gt aro;9nd sewen tb each adad to form hemstitch double ruchings of burnt orange chiffon, trimmed with black stitching. The ruffies were headed with tiny gatherings of baby satin ribbon. It was worn over a black silk waist, which was made perfectly plain and might possibly have been an old waist.
 Null and or~andie make admirable fichus They are cut diamond shaped, with their round. pointed diamond ends. The entire hchu IS ruff1ed around the edge and when folded becomes the right shape. The ends hang down the front almost to the floor ir some cases. In others they extend merely to the waist. The length can be regulated by the length of the long ends of the dia- mond, cut as long as you desire the fichu to be. Three yards will make an extreme ly long one. Begin to point the ends i'm mediately and make them as narrow as possible.
 Shoes are different in design. I - saw three new models the other day. One was of black satin with Louis Quinze buckle, for the piazza. Another was of striped silk. silk lined. with feather top, for the boudoir and third was a very high rainy day shoe. HELEN WARD
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

GN EAL or imitation lace forms an II J important part of dresses this sea- lH son and is used almost in every O Nthing. Lace for insertion, lace
 founces, dresses made entirely of needle point or guipure, are very much the fashion.
 l have seen very pretty evening dress of soft Nile green satin. The skirt Is very close fitting round the body at the sides and behind, and quite fiat in front.
 It is long all round at the bottom, and has small train. The lower part, from about forty centimeters from the hem, is ornamented with three narrow silk founces to match the satin, all of equal width, and in fine accordion pleats, and edged with narrow ruches of mousseine de soie to match. Beneath the satin skirt is an independent skirt of white taffeta Above the uppermost f1ounce is a row of imitation Alencon lace insertion, laid on flat over the taffetas and forming head ing to the flounce. This heading is edged with narrow ruches like those on the flounces. Above it is a space of plain satin ten centimeters wide, and above this again another row of insertion, edged with ruches. running all round the skirt The corsage; which is cut square at the neck, is a blouse of accordion pleated mousseline de soie over the satin and is ornamented down the front with four rows of imitation Alencon insertion very light in design
 The back is similarly trimmed. Round the decollete is a bertha frill of Alencon lace, forming three points in front and the same number behind, and edged with a narrow ruche like the founces on the skirt. Above the bertha Is similar ruche. The bertha is extended into epau- lets. At the fall of the left shoulder is a bouquet of mauve orchids, mixed with sprays of maidenhair fern. The sleeves are of mousseline de sole, mounted on narrow band, and forming small dra- pery. The wastband is of the same ma terial, with long scarf ends on the left side, edged with ruches to match and or
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

and the interiors are finished in linen with satin sachet pads.
 The up-to-date girl never changes her perfumes, but has her trunk pads filled with the same scents as those which she uses in her bureau at home, or even packs the same pads into her trunk as surely as she does her clothing. They are, are reary part oI her wararooe; ar De- 1T dainty Swiss, the pretty siloklines will be found quite as useful.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

Veneer cutting has reached such per- lection that a single elephants tusk thirty inches long is now cut into sheet of ivory 150 inches long and 20 inches wide.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
aaa WRlVRhRS 4VD FaQR W4SS4QE.
By Mme. Hyqeiu.

 ceA commut H Ind San
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
WOMEN WHO WORE
 UNIFORMS IN THE CIVIL WAR.

fA EN ANY and thrilling are the tales UWN. told of the heroism of women. 4 MN both of the North and South,
 during the War of the Rebellion.
 The women of the war may be divided into three classes. The first class included the women who served as nurses in hospitals and on the field of battle. or these much has already been written. The second class was that very useful body of scouts and spies whose dress and actions were according to circumstances. They appeared as stylish danes surround
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
LATEST PARIS GOWNS.
Paris Correspondent of The Call

\ EAL or imitation lace forms an ] important part of dresses this sea- son and is used almost in every
 , thing. Lace for insertion. lace fiOupces dresses roada ar+iroI,, s
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10
Special to The Sunday Call.

F EW YORK, July S.-It is easy
 enough to select an evening dress and the gowns for yacht ing, tennis, croquet and golf,
 8 which are circumscribed by cer-
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
FROM wYLY.

Special correspondence
Prof. G. w. Herrin, who has re-
turned from Boydsville, Ark, has
opened a school at Bakers Chapel
Everything is quiet in this COM
munity, and peace and plenty and
christian fellowship seems to pre-
vail.
Your correspondent was in Cam
den this week on business and
mingling with old friends and can
didates, the latter being a set OF
joyial, good fellows.
l wish to say to your readers
that / have returned from Racken-
sack, prodigal like, and as a nat.
ural consequence, and l wish tc
extend my sincere thanks to my
many friends here as well as il
other parts of this great mora
vineyard, who have been the gooC
Samaritan to me, for they hav,
been instrumental in many ways o
adding new cheer and comfort t.
myself and loved ones.
WHY, January 10.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
WANTED AGENTS.

"The Confederate Soldier in the Civil War"
contains 800 pages 12X1G inches, and over 1,1OO
large Battle Scenes, Portraits, Maps, etc. The
greatest and largest War Book ever published,
and the only one that does Justice to the COnfed-
crate soldier and the cause he fought for. Agents
wanted everywhere to sell this book on our new
and easy plan. Many of the lady and gentlemen
agents who are at work are making from $50 to
500 per month. Veterans, Sons and Daughters
of veterans, and others interested are requested
TO send for beautiful Illustrated descriptive cir
cular Gree) and terms to agents. Address COu-
rier-JOuTnal Job Printing Co., Louisville, Ky.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21

with both pupils and patrons He
only entered the race this week, but
he has begun AN active and vigor-
GUS canvass Of the county TO pre-
sent his claims 10 the voters in per-
son, and viii be in the race 10 the
finish, and win make IL interesting
FOR his Republican opponent If he
gets the nomination.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
PUBLIC SPEAKING.

The candidates before the Dem
ocratic primary will speak rs fol-
lows:
Holiday, February 2S
Coxburgh, March l.
Eva, March 2.
Big Sandy, March 3.
Eggville, March 4.
Speaking will begin promptly at
i p. M. j. NJ. HOLIDAY,
w. L. MORRIS, Chairman.
Secretary.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
SALE OF LAND.
S. L. Pooler vs.. ]. H. Walker.

S. L. Peeler vs.. ]. H. Walker.
BY virtue Of a venditioni expuuaa in
my hands, issued by A. r.. Brooks, clerk
OF the circuit court Of Benton County,
Tennessee, ! will on
Monday, the 9th Day Of February,
1898,
expose to public sale 10 the highest bid
der, for cash, at the courthouse door in
Camden, Tennessee, the one-ninth undi-
vided interest Of the said S. Walker in
and to the following described tract OF
land lying in the third civil district Of
Benton County, Tennessee, in range 8
and section 3, containing by estimation
200acres. Aiuil description Of said land
will be given on day Of sale The same
was condemned and ordered 10 be sold by
the circuit court Of Benton County, Ten.
nessee, ut the December term, 1897, to
satisfy a judgment in favor of S. /. Peelel
and against j. IL. Walker for 1914 and
all cost.
This January 10, 1898
w. A. LASHLEE,
1877 Sheriff
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
o. A. UTLEY.

The CHRONICLE is authorized to
announce o. A. Utley in this issue
as candidate for the office of cir
cult court clerk, subject to the will
Of the Democratic party. Mr.. Ut
ley is young man of most exem-
plary habits, has been engaged in
teaching school for several years,
and is qualified tofill the position
to which he aspires. He is a son
of Rev. M. V. Utley, and a nephew
Of Burrell Utley, at one time sheriff
Of this county and a very popular
official. Mr.. Utley started out in
life under adverse circumstances,
and is q self-made man in every
sense Of the word, and he has host
of friends who will endorse his first
application for office. Mr.. Utley
will see as many of the voters as
possible, and present his claims in
person, and we commend his cause
to the earnest consideration Of the
voters of the county.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
ANNOUNCED CANDIDATES.


AN Lindsey announces his can
didacy IN this issue of pm CmoN-
icLE for the Office of sheriff. subject
to Che action Of the Democratic
party Mr. Lindsey has for several
years been identified with the bus
mess OF the Office of sheriff as dep
uty, and his experience has amply
qualliiedandequipped him in every
way to render the county faithful
and efficient service as sheriff. He
has been a lifelong Democrat and
a party worker, and is regarded by
his many friends who have urged
him to make the race as q safe bus
mess man and one who would make
an ideal officer If elected. He is
recognized as one of our best citi-
zens, kind, courteous, and highly
esteemed as q law-abiding neigh
Dor, and is popular at home. For
several weeks he has been prevent
ed from presenting his claims to the
people 10y sickness, but he willmake
an active canvass, and we present
his claims for your earnest consid.
Grafton.
The Camden chronicle. (Camden, Tenn.) 1890-current, 1898-01-21
THE LIGHT OF THE WORLD
OR OUR SAVIOUR IN ART.

Cost over 100000 to publish Contains nearly
200 fullpage engTayings of our Saviour, by the
great masters. Every picture is reproduced from
some famous painting Agents are taking from
three to twenty orders per day. The book is so
THE FIRST GLANCE AT THE PICTURES
BROUGHT TEARS TO MY EYES" says one.
"Cleared $50 first weeks work with the book, ="
saws another. "SOme high-grade man or woman
here at once, says every editor, as $500 can soon
be made taking orders for it," Also man or
woman OfgOOd social position can secure position
OF Manager oil this territory to devote all their
time to employing and drilling agents and CORE
spending with them. Address for full particulars
A. l. I. ELDER, publisher, 27S Michigan Ave
nue. Chicago, Ill.