Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1898-09-15
THE FASHIONS IN NEW YORK
For Another Season, Crepons
Will Hold Sway.
WEIRD PORTRAYALS IN VELVET
The Changeable Feature in
Fine Woods.


Ridiculous Patchings of Feathers.
New York, Sept. 10.-From early sam
ples shown to the initiated, it is evident
the reign of crepons is far from ended
and that for another season at least they
will hold undisputed sway. But though
again in uneven weaves, new ones show
new patterns, but not after all, 80 mark
eddy novel as 10 hinder the way fol, what
has hitherto been noticeable. High-class
novelties apart from crepon surfaces, dis
play numerous weird portrayals 10 velvet
on wool or silk and wool groundwork
Often they resemble in sharpness of out
line, the close-cut shadows peculiar to the
glancings of an electric light through
branches, and this the moro SO, since pat
terms are usually in imitation of natures
arborcal handiwork. Almost universally
likewise, they are in black on colored
surfaces and therefore show all the more
boldly.
The changeable is also quite feature
in fine woods or silk and wool mixtures
noticeable also at Lord & Taylor's, and
plaids are seen to some extent, but taste
runs oftener to fancy designs in all over
style and having certain vagueness or
la directly opposite manner, set in formal
figures sometimes close or again at con.
siderable intervals. Polka dots in velvet
on plain grounds are moreover leading
idea in new dress goods and appear in /.
ways too numerous for special description
and this to the disadvantage of stripes,
which, though permissible, are by no
means frequent. 81
From advanced designs, no special
changes in making strike the eye and
once more, the clinging skirts, moderate
sleeves and ornate corsages will be worn.
the effort for skirt ornamentation having
been only partial success, although
giving the advantage of breadth in case
Of too tall and slender women or of rem
dering comparatively easy, the task of
remaking or renewing. The threatened
invasion of hoops is laughed to scorn and
preliminary 5ust,es, though worn, are
still avoided by the greater number OF
women. Theoretically and practically
too rs we'll, the fashionable skirt still
touches or shows a slight sweep, but I'M
questionably the bicycle has a marked
influence; it has not been uncommon at
summer resorts or in small towns, to see
women = especially the younger, per-
ambulating through busy streets with
skirts reaching only to their ankles, no
| apologize wheel being within sight and
| thus upon occasion, the fair sex have
won freedom for their feet and need not
envelope themselves in too long drapery,
except when ceremony or rather dressy
promenade may call for 1t. But even
now on broadway or Fifth Avenue. a
| slender and neat ankled woman would
not excite great attention should she
wear an Abbreviated skirt; ON rainy day
| she would pass without remark.
In fall and winter millinery, shapes
| at,tta fapntfr1 1ruf
| feature is that of brims rising abruptly
back from the forehead, this being in q
rect opposition TO summer contours.
many of which brought the brim prom,
over the forehead. Quite noticeable 10
material. are such as display velv
\ figures in branch-like outlines ON sih7
| surface that Is sometimes plain or again
may show plaids. Such goods are used
| frequently for crowns and so placed un
| English walking hats, Alpine-shapes md
other fatigue headgear, have novel aiid
| peculiar appearance. In touches on more
dressy hats, they bring variety, but ey
| cept when employed in the manner first
noted, have clumsy appearance. Polka
| dots in velvet on a silk foundation, are
comparatively free from this last objec-
| ton and the contrasts noticeable between
such surface adornment and the ground
| WbEh DCiUWt uEC Olttu cAtIcutl1
some. White dottings are most fire.
| quently seen and in consequences the
effect is much lighter than il they were
otherwise, the Partially for white being
from the fact that it is in keeping with
| guinea fowl plumage, OF which more
hereafter. Plain velvet Is largely used,
| hut not to the extent of miroir or crushed
| velvet that comes up with extraordinary
| prestige. There is indeed special run on
this peculiar fabric aud with its plush
like appearance, it is counted upon as an
important adjunct in producing that rich
| glow which gives u look OF warmth in
the midst Of bleak surroundings,
Talfeta ribbons are again brought out
and satin Us well and both to the disad-
vantage of MORE which has had its day,
| although such particular style when
seemingly quite out of date, Is apt to ap-
pear unexpectedly and claim precedence.
In ribbons, too, moreover, It leading
position is given to such as arc woven in
keeping with the velvet covered fabrics
noted previously and as may be sur
missed, like them show tiny branches in
black on white, colored or plaided SUR
face. Polka dots in velvet are, however,
in better taste, being set apart, they are
less heavy and according to the colors
chosen, may often give refinement, Willie
producing q certain richness.
Birds are notably absent, but in their
place come such absurdities in human
devices that one might almost wish again
for the skilled productions of natures
hand. Natural wings are at discount,
and in their place come many ridiculous
patchings Of feathers such for example
as bordering of grebe attached to a
soft quill feather, and it Is thought stylish
10 have a large birds head, (often an
OWLS head), as the centre from which
monstrosties in made wings branch
forth. AS an example also may be quoted
huge centre piece devised in guinea
fowl plumage, which doubtless is in
tended as head, and from such mann
moth absurdity made wings of similar
material stretch in unheard of lengths
and devious ways. For guinea fowl
plumage, there is in truth a rage. 1t
appears in all manner of shapes and
combinations and the run on it has
brought up white spangles that are set iu
imitation on plain quill feathers. Dyed
plumage in general adds to the work Of
artiiicialness in millinery, and together
with almost universal patchings, produces
frequently a most Objectionable botchi-
ness. The few whole birds thus far
noticeable are tiny humming birds set on
the stems of pompons, or aiyrettes, where
. in the midst Of soft surroundings they
spread their little wings in vain appeal
! for mercy. ROsalind NAV