The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1898-07-06
SOUVENIRS or SPAIN.
HecoIIections of Travel in the Land
OF the Don.


Robert Luce in the Bullaio Express.
H9lf a dozen COWS were part of the
f,,rDit,,re 7 found in the handsome bake
,.t...-o...-....
shop at SeViAe. we en'ereo II 10 se' some
cake, and were puzz-ed at the ooVlhe odor
until we noticed an alcove barred off by
. fence behind which were six fine-look-
,.. ....,,. ..-,..-.l .,,,... ~, Tho stl,,
'"S 00"9 WIN '''
side OF the fence were taDleS al Which sat
Spanish men and women, slipping and
smoking.
7,.l,fre. s,,+e. ,,.to,,, NO comb watch tho
edtIe' we caileu Ioi LeNHe'
Thepupon a man picked up quart
measure, Went 90 one OF the cows, milk
ing the measure fun, and then strained
the milk iHlo two glasses, giving us fun
pint cacn Of fOam-covered, warm, rich
milk. For this he charged US what would
be in our money six cents a glass While
We were slipping it, occasionally cow
would moo in remonstrance against being
MIXED at 10 o'clock in the evening, but
for the most part they seemed to take the
repeated visits of the mikman as a mat
ter of course
SPAN Is a smokers paradise If company
can make Il such. All the men smoke and
most of the women, though the women
rarely do il in public. one of the ladies' Of
our party, left alone for a few minutes in
a railway compartment at a junction, was
asked by a Spanish gentleman who en-
tered. whether smoking was Objectionable
TO her Being unable to speak Spanish
she tried to give her permission by ges-
torres, in the course of which she put her
finger to her mouth Thereupon as if Il
were a matter of course, he offered her
cigarette. causing as you may imagine
much embarrassment
frst-class car. one has a sign fOrbidding
smoking. In the second and third-class
cars nobody thinks of RETAINING If he
cares to smoke. We entered late the din
ing room of the best hotel at Jerez and
found there several men smoking and chat
ting. their dinner finished Though. by
their courtesy when AT last they laCt the
room, we knew them to be Spanish gen
tlemen of social standing. il had not uc-
CURED to them TO lay aside their cigars
The barber al Seville smoked while shay
ing a smoking patron The ushers smok-
ed cigarettes in a Seville theater. The rail-
way conductor entered to punch the tick
cts while smoking a cigarette.
Spain is getting civilized We were in
several hotels before we were charged for
candles. In all of them we found decent
plumbing. Al Seville we had electric light
in our chambers EXCEPT on Sunday night
when il was TOO religious to burn In
Cordova-the moribuud city. inhabited by
5000 mortals and $1,000. go ghosts. fer
once il was twenty-five miles long and big
enough to have 900 public baths-in Cor
dova the electric aight company's building
was one of The first We saw. Even in
Tangier barbarous outposts of heather
Africa. with streets so narrow and crook
ed that even a Bostonlan dared not cave
the hotel at night without a guide and
lantern bearer the incandescent burner
tually found a kerosene lamp in our room,
and the entrance to the Alhambra, the
glorious Gate of Justice erected by the
Moors in 1915. is Illuminated by a gasllght.
Al Ronda i'm the tremendous gorge where
YOU look down from the bridge nearly 500
feet to the cataract below, an electric
light station Is seen clinglng to the wall
of the chasm. In the parlor of the hotel
In this country village of benighted Spain
we found a piano in good condition, and
among the papers on table was the San
Francisco Argonaut.
When we drove out from Seville three
olive-brown boys not more than 10 years
old pIuckily kept up with our barouche
for a quarter of a mile from the hovels
known as Italica TO the well-preserved
Roman ampitheater. We named them
Trefan HadriaD and TheOdosius for they
showed persistence enough to make them
also emperors like their three forcrunners
who went out from here to rule the Ro-
man world one lad tried for an hour to
sell us verdigris-covered coin; the second
We'd with him in Offering a bunch of flow
ers, while the third, most Roman OF them
all fiercely demanded money without any
return
Nothing remains OF the powerful city
founded by Scipio Afrcanus save its
arena. where you viii see the bath for
the gladiators. the tunnels giving access
hlf eEalK