The San Francisco call., 1898-12-04
MODELS FOR SILK PETTooAJS IN STRIPES AND BRoCHDES.

accomplishment. The death-knell of tid- les and like hideous things pealed the doom of sewing as a weapon wherewith to entertain and captivate. The needle and thread are no longer used to en- twine young men who like domestic ten dencies.
 And because the modern maid doffs her thimble in public a great hue and cry is raised about the lost art of sewing. There Is much signing over the girls of the yester years and the girls of to-day.
 That wall is all very foolish and need less, for the modern maid can sew equally as well as her sisters of the past. In fact, since sewing is no longer done on parade she can make far more useful ar ticles than the girls of long ago.
 When the girl of the present period puts on the thimble it is for practical purposes. The girls who can make their own clothes are as plentiful as in the past. But the false alarmists insist on crying wolf! be- cause sewing and society are not on speaking terms. They do not pull aside the curtains of the sewing room where needle and thread are piled busily and exclusively. Sewing has simply had it's boundary lines changed, it has not been educated. Like. children and dogs it Is not allowed in the drawing room
 I know dozens of girls who occupy their fingers while they chat with their girl friends who have dropped in to spend the afternoon. ing their own fine white sewing. Under wear, daintily fashioned, hemstitched, trimmed with lace and insertion, Is very expensive. But by making them they are possible with very little outlay. Those who make their own underwear always have a piece of work on hand so that there is never the necessity ot rushing to fill a depleted wardrobe.
 The materials used should always be soft and fine. Fine muslin, lawn or batiste Is prettiest. Laces and embroider1es must Lo of nu9lifV they VIII not With stand the wear and tear of the laundry.
 The woman who does S5t make her own underwear at least enjoys planning them. Even in the shops among the more expen7, aive white pieces one finds tiny tucks all run by hand, and lace frills put on with inc tfniest of hand stitches. In fact, there is a general revival in hand sewing.
 Another old-fashioned idea in underwear has been revived besides that of hand sewing. Underclothes are now made m ''sets.h The same kind of trimming Is used throughout and put on in the. same way. That Is. if the nightgown has yoke formed of rows of tucks and inser- ton crossing each other, then the block pattern is followed in all the pieces of the set Or if points are used on one garment ISav are used on all the other pieces.
 Vauuyke points are having great rogue. One finds cambric ana muslin pet ticoats as well as those of silk with trim ming of this form. Embroidery comes in deep points edged with narrow frills of lace. and this is a most effective style: Little Louis XVI bows embellish dainty white garments. Ribbons of the same color as the bows run through beading. These of course, must all be removed when garments are sent to the wash but the fastidious woman considers 1t little or no trouble to place the ribbons and fasten on the pretty little bows with stitch or TWO.
 Just now there is a great liking for the little white washable sacques. While at sss present season of cold weather the comfortable little flannellatte jackets may