davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1898-09-11
Some Gowns for .1utuqn Neox

the sailor shape remains the most popular
but the front, 20 be quite up-to-date, II
must develop into large revers
One very pretty gown l saw had a col
lar of this description. of white satin, GOV.
cred with Irish crochet lace, and a vest
| tight-fitting, by the way, 10 match. The
frock itself was built Of dark-blue canvas
and had foundation of the same hue ot
very fine cashmere. l think have before
| mentioned the fact that they have beer
Using this material in lieu Of silk for some
time past in Paris for lining purposes, and
already one or two of our leading dress
| makers have adopted the mode, and are
! making it their own, its sole merit, so far
as l can see, lying in the fact that it is
said to "cl!ng" so much better than silk
can ever hope to do and that it falls more
gracefully.
The gown under consideration was made
with perfectly plain skirt, but up each
sleeves was just series OF tucks from
shoulder to wrist, but perfectly tight
fitting. and finished by small gauntlet cuffs
OF the white satin, covered with crochet
lace. The toque was of yellow chenille,
trimmed with cherries and blue silk pop
pies and a huge Louis Quinze bow of wired
black ribbon velvet. Indeed, for the mo-
ment, from the point of view Of the mil
liners, the Louis Quinze bow, no matter
where 1t Is placed, can do no wrong. While
am upon the subject of hats, would
have you note specially that If you would
be in the very latest fashion your veil
must reach only just below the nose and
no farther. ! fancy the possessor OF an
extraordinary pretty mouth must be the
prime instigator in this move, but be that
as 1t may, the mode is one that has already
met with unqualified approval in Paris,
so, suppose, it is bound to become gen.
eral here before very long.
In regular tailor-mades the rapid, dlsap-
pearance OF braiding is the most notable
feature Of the new modes for early autumn
wear, coats and skirts alike being left
severely plain, and only relying for dis
tinctlon upon the perfection Of their cut
and the exqulsitely-done rows Of machine
stitching with which they are ornamen:ed
Well, 1 suppose the reaction was bound
10 come sooner or later.
The herald., 1898-09-11

for an out Of door frock. AS contrast to
this tale of autumn clothes, l must tell
you the news of fashion which comes
from Japan and which we are ;old will
probably be introduced here next year
not seriously of course. but as a fad and
an utter novelty only to be considered by
those who can afford such eccentricities.
The subjects of the mika6o have started
a paper craze, and the highest ladies in
The land are ordering entire costumes Of
this novel dress material. 1t is light and
economical and the most elegant toilette
can be made for five or six yens-about
81. / am told that in the big shops large
quantities of paper dress material are
being sold, and that the manufacturers
are making special lots of silk paper (what
we call tissue paper, I think). of various
colors, and non-tearable. guaranteed to
wash. There are dressmakers In the prin-
cipal towns who have speciality for these
paper costumes and are doing an excellent
The herald., 1898-09-11
How Bismarck Won His Wife

Denver Evening Post: Bismarck fell
in love at a friends wedding with the
young woman who became his wife, and
presently wrote to her parents to ask her
hand.
The good people were naturally much
surprised at a direct attack like this;
they We're very simple folk, leading
very quiet life, and they We're rather
frightened at the reputation for high liv-
ing which the candidate enjoyed.
AS. however, their daughter intimated
in discreet terms that she did not look
upon the young gentleman with an un-
favorable eye, Herr Won Puttkammer
wrote to young Bismarck, inviting him
to come and see them. Every one did
their best at Reinfeld to give the visitor
a suitable reception; Fraulein Won Putt
hammers parents put on an air Of
grave solemnity. and she stood with eyes
modestly bent upon the ground. Bis
marck, on alighting, threw his arms
around his sweetheart's neck and em-
braced her vigorously before anybody
had time to tell him that his conduC
was hardly proper and correct. The rf-
suit was, however, an immediate le-
thrOthal
The herald., 1898-09-11
The "American Girl

Miss Maud Mears of Chicago, who Is
trying to enlist the young women OF this
country in the project of building the bat
tleship American Girl, finds her mail grow.
ing heavier every day. Girls from one
end Of the country to the other are writing
their enthusiastic approval and askin g
what they shall do to aid in carrying ou;
the project.
The writer's thank Miss Mears for enab-
ling them to show that the American gir
is fully as patriotic as the American boy
AS New York girl put it: II am glad thy
there is something We girls can do to sH
our patriotism besides sit in a VIM
ledge and wave a handkerchief when |
boys go away or else pounce dowHm
poor, unprotected naval hero and H
unawares." /+bel
The Endorsement Of Mrs. Dicbf he
wife of Commander f. w. Dicfe gem
navy, has done much to increaa wives
eral interest in the project, and naval
of other prominent governing lie over
officials are becoming entbune.
Miss Mears' plans.-Chicag9 =.
The herald., 1898-09-11

One charming example in pale gray serge
had vest, collar and revers of white kid.
the small coat-ike sleeves ornamented
with tiny Saunt!e. cuffs of the kid, willis.
the band-the bodice was cut omewhat
after the fashion of sailor blouse-wasi also
of white kid, clasped with an antique sill
yer buckle, the skirt bearing three narrow
rows of the white kid, cut on the cross and
machine stitched with coarse gray silk.
For quiet elegance the gown was simply
unsurpassabe. A lovely magpie gown was
built OF cream-cooreG serge on the time
honored coat and skirt plan. The latter
was left severely plain, but the former
was made beautiful by collar, small
pointed revers and ight-fitting vest of
black suede. embroidered with coarse sill
yer thread in some conventional design.
think, without exception, it was the most
exquisite tailor-made gown ever saw
AS fashionable women have now adopted
The herald., 1898-09-11

the English fashion of remaining late out
of town, and of wearing the kind of gowns
considered indispensable by English wo-
men for walking, shooting and golf,
ladies' tailor know of has made spec
ialty the last few years. of getting them
up. interviewed him the other day and
found that for these Harris cloths are in
greater favor than any other material,
though few good examples were in
cheviots and one or two of tweed cap
tivated me exceedingly. The skirts of these
gowns seem to grow shorter with every
season that passes, and those 1 saw were
no exception TO the rule.
OF course leather plays a very promi-
nent part in each and all of these. One
very charming model, in sort of brown
leather mixture. has short skirt turned
up after the fashion Of a false hem, with
dark blue leather, the short, tight-fitting
coat cut something after mess Jacket,
having a vest of the dark blue leather,
fastening with tiny gold buttons. The
collar was also of the leather, with an inner
one of linen, and jaunty bow of white sat-
In; while the exceeding small sleeves were
faced back with the leather, and the band
ing of the skirt was of leather also. An
other gown of shepherds check had facings
of scarlet leather, and was built something
after the same plan, only that an Eton
coat took the place of the mess Jacket;
while vet another was of rough heather
mixture, eminently suitable for bad wealth
er, the short skirt bound with brown leath-
er, and the bands on the coat, which was
of Norfolk cut, being of brown leather also,
as was the belt which fastened with gilt
clasp Of really beautiful workmanship.
This was not perhaps so fascinating an ex-
ample Of the tailor's art as the other two
gowns. but am bound to confess that 1t
looked equal to quite twice the amount OF
hard wear. and If, as some people aver,
utility ts beauty, why, then, the brown
frock has the best of 1t.
BY this time you will have discovered
that leather plays an important part on
swell tailor-mades, and I must say that
properly managed. 1t is an ideal trimming
The herald., 1898-09-11

NEW YORK, Sept. 5.-(Special Corre-
spondence to The Herald). Soon. too soon,
out dainty summer frocks will have to be
dismissed from active service and We shall
be reveling in the steiner stuffs meet for
the sterner skies of the closing year. l
have told you already something of these
autumn materials and described few of
the gowns made from them. Here are
descriptions of some others, which have
been permitted to see this week.
The first was demure but very chic
beaver brown cloth-brown Is to be one of
the favorites this fall--whose skirt OF three
shaped flounces had on each one many
rows Of lace stitching. Where the fitted
bodice opened u vest was revealed of glow
Ing orange silk rouleaux Joined by lace
stitches. With this note of rich, dark
orange an applique of pale blue cloth run
ming in narrow line down the fronts
made most perfect harmony. The sleeves
moulded the arm, but were headed by
square epaulettes of the cloth, and they as
well as the flowing cuff were lined with
orange. To wear with this gown was
toque of brown velvet with velvet sun
flowers at the side. For the lovers of grey
was an Immensely swell sample thereof In
a soft and fine, yet warm. cloth gown with
an exceedingly smart skirt, moulding the
hips and flowing outward from the knees
in most bewildering way, considering that
the effect was not produced by an added
founce. The fitted bodice, quaint with
lovely lace, and a soft grey feather trim
ming curling around its outlines, was
dream. For this was the blue grey velvet
hat with quite a froth Of grey tips falling.
over its turned-up brim
As contrast to this delicate scheme
was called upon next to admire a Parma
cloth with a skirt profusely trimmed with
strappings of the cloth, and a little coat
OF the close-ltting very short build that
had It's revers and Medicis collar faced by
q rich gupure lace. This Parma cloth
was completed by a toque OF Parma vel
vet created with that clever chic which
makes simplicity so fascinating and SIM
ply stuck with pair of lovely pearl pins.
Now that the pouch is beginning 10 fall
out Of favor, all our energies seem to be
directed to making the most of our collars.
They are getting extravagantly large and
The herald., 1898-09-11

one of the villages of Kangwha with eleven
friends went to a hamlet close to the walls
of Kangwha City, where widow lived and
seized and carried off, after somewhat of a
battle, a young lady. 1t SO happened, how
ever, that they had mistaken the house,
and unfortunately got hold Of the wrong
lady. Early the next morning an indignant
posse came in pursuit. but the men who
had committed the dastardly deed sue
ceeded in eluding them. The young lady,
however, was rescued, and after the house
of the widower and its contents had been
completely demolished she was escorted
home in triumph by her husband and his
friends.-Kobe Chronicle.
The herald., 1898-09-11

AS fashtonable women have now adopte
The herald., 1898-09-11
SPEAKING TO PAPA

Old Million-You want my daughter, eh?
Now. sir. tell me in what single instance
have you ever exhibited any business tact.
Jake Fe!lows-Well that's easy enough.
picked on you for a father-in-law.-Van-
fly Fair.
Say, when you call on Josie's papa you
want to be careful that he doesn't get the
drop on you" pooh, amt afraid Of him" :"
"Ain't, eh? I>guess you don't know that
The herald., 1898-09-11

he's the inventor Of the Little Giant pile
driver!"-Cleveland Plain Dealer.
"Gracie," said Mr.. Nipperson, II think
your father ought in some way TO be given
to understand that he carries his business
as a contractor altogether too far" "What
makes you think that?" the fair girl asked.
"When l went to him this afternoon and
told him that I wanted you for my wife, he
told me to submit sealed proposal and he
would consider it in its proper ORDER
Chicago News.
The herald., 1898-09-11
"Packing Off of Widows"

A pastime which obtains among the farm
classes of Korea, known as the packing
off of Widows" consists Of a raid by some
dscons late widower and his friends on
some village known to contain a young
widow, the forc.ble abduction of the lady
IN question and her marriage to the widow
er. An instance of the kind has recently
come to our Aotice. A widower living ir
The herald., 1898-09-11

though 1t is intended to do duty as one, as
it is a ripple of merriment. The smart
girl this summer makes no noise at al
with her laughter. She keeps her mouth
closed. her lips well together. But over
these lips steal, when she is amused, some
thing that is more than a smile. 1t is a
laugh all but the sound, all but the opening
of the mouth and the showing of the teeth.
1t is fun and amusement personified, but
it is all in silenca-New York Herald.
The herald., 1898-09-11

trade. 1t is sold in dress lengths. Think
of the color--of the artistic designs-of the
comfort in the small weights Even in
winter-and yet. no, in winter 1t would be
scarcely practical, without the Japs ar
rive at manufacturing blotting paper on
purpose for our market. / shall look for
ward to the spring, hoping some American
house will be enterprising enough to start
q department for paper clothes.
The herald., 1898-09-11
You Can't Hear the New Laugh

Distinguished by a great measure of DIFF
ference from the merry "Ha, hap is the
new laugh
It Il ont SO much laugh, to tell the truth.
The herald., 1898-09-11
Not Worth Ing

Out tne scar
"That's very old jofesorts."
city of men at the SUMO joke"
1T may be old. but Truth.
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04
Flag in Porto Rico.
Washington special:

Washington special;
The advance brigades of the army of
invasion under Gen. Miles landed on the
island of Porto Rico and Immediately be
gan establishing bases of supplies for the
re-enforcements that are speedily TO fol-
low. The War Department received in
formation direct from Major Gen. Miles
of the landing.
Circumstances were such that the
American commander deemed il advisa-
BILE to take the harbor of Guanica first,
fifteen miles west of Ponce, which was
successfully accomplished. The Glouces-
ter. Commander Wainwright, first enter
ed the harbor met with slight resistance;
fired few shots. This is well protect
ed harbor: water sufficiently deep for all
Transports the heavy vessels can anchor
within few hundred yards of shore. The
Spanish flag was lowered and the Ameri-
can flag raised.
The little village Of Guanica, where our
troops landed, is on the southwest coast
of Porto Rico not far from Ponce. There
were twelve vessels in the expedition, in
Guiding five warships. Among the latter
were the battleship Massachusetts, the
cruiser Columbia. and the auxiliary gun
boat Gloucester. These vessels and trans
ports, conveying 1000 troops. artillery,
horses and ammunition from Guanta-
namo. arrived off Porto Rico. and. in ac-
cordance with plan agreed upon at the
council of war held at sea on board the
Yale. Gen. Miles headquarters, proceeded
to Guanica, at which place there is an eN-
cellent approach. At the council II was
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04

mination of the war and settlement Of
terms of peace"
When it became known throughout the
city that Spain had formally sued for
peace there was more excitement in diplo-
matte and administration circles in Wash
ington than there has been at any time
since the news came that Santiago had
surrendered to the American forces.
The indications from Madrid are that
Spain will try to negotiate peace on the
basis Of the independence of Cuba. That
proposition will be met with the demand
that Spain shall withdraw from the West
ern hemisphere, where her government Of
colonies has been so ruinous and cruel as
to engender strife and anarchy. She
must withdraw from both Cuba and Porto
Rico. AS to the Philippines. the admin
istration is not ready to declare its pol
icy or formulate its demand. That will
depend largely upon the situation at Ma
Mia after the surrender, and on public
opinion in this country.
There will be no nrmEtice pending any
negotiations that may be entered upon.
The campaign in Porto Rico will be push
ed with the same vigor. Gen. Miles is
in Porto Rico, and the American flag has
been unfurled there. That campaign will
continue. The war there will be wnged
until Spain surrenders the island and
withdraws her army.
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04
PLEADS FOR PEACE.
OvERTURES MADE BY AMBAS-
SADOR CAMBON.
Sagnsta Realizes that War Is Hope
1essfor His COuntry-Terms Not Sug-
gestcd-Hostilities Are to BE Con-
tinued Until Spain Gives Up.
Spain on Her Knees.

Washington special:
Poor old Spain is on her knees at last,
begging for peace. She has had enough
Of war and cries quits. She has laid aside
her Castilian pride and approached the
White House as suppliant. She has lost
her haughtiness and assumed Il proper
spirit of humility. She has not had the
presumption to suggest terms. She has
humbly asked whether the President will
deign to discuss terms of peace and end
war disastrous to Spain and full of glory
for the United States. The Madrid au
thorities have finally realized that it is
useless to keep the Spanish people longer
in ignorance of the actual results of the
war. The fulminations of bombastic
Blanco have come to he regarded at their
true worth in the capital of the peninsula.
They have ceased to dclude even n small
portion of the Spanish people.
Premier Sagasta, appreciating the utter
hopelessness of the situation from his
standpoint, comes now holding out in one
hand the olive branch. while with the
other he presents petition for clemency
to President Mckinley.
There was an important conference Mt
the White House Tuesday afternoon. The
participants in that meeting. which is
likely to become famous in history, were
President Mckinley, Secretary Day, NJ.
Cambon, the French ambassador, and NJ.
Thiebault, the first secretary of the
French legation. The conference lasted
for more than an hour. and when it ad-
journed the American Secretary of State
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04

decided that Guanica afforded much
better landing place than Ponce. which
was the real objective point, and that the
troops could be put ashore without meet
ing with any serious resistance.
The Massachusetts and Columbia
steamer inshore as far as was considered
safe and dropped a few of their big mis-
siles among the enemy. At the same
time the Gloucester, whose lighter
draught enabled her to approach the
shore much closer than the heavier war
ships, opened fire with her three and six
Founders. The Spaniards replied without
effect with their Mauser rifles and then
retired. The Gloucester then sent a party
ashore to haul down the Spanish flag
from the blockhouse near the beach,
which had been abandoned by the enemy
at the opening of the fire. As the flag
was being lowered Il number of Spanish
troops fired on the landing party, who re-
piled spiritedly with their rifles and a ma
chine gun, which they had taken ashore
with them. The Spanish fire was finally
silenced. 1t is known that at least four
of the Spaniards were killed. Not an
American was hurt.
Ponce, toward which place Miles army
Immediately began an advance. is the sec
ond city in population and commercial i'm
portance in Porto Rico. 1t is aboIt three
miles from the coast and has population
of $4,000, with jurisdiction over 1000
inhabitants. 1t is located on high plain,
is the chief town in the judicial district of
the same name, and is said to be the
healthiest place on the island.
There is a railroad TO Iauco and stage
road to San Juan, on the north coast;
Mayagilez, on the west coast, and Quay
anna. on the east. There was also n tele-
graph and cable station until recently.
when the British Gable Company cut out
the Porto Rico loop 10 prevent il being
tied up by the war. There are no for
tifications at Ponce, but about thirty Old
mountain howitzers. There are reported
to be about 1000 Spanish soldiers garri-
soned there, but from the harbor the war
ships could command the whole place and
land the troops of Gen. Miles with perfect
safety.
About 22000 troops are already under
orders TO take part in the Porto Rico cam
paign. Some have reached the island.
some are steaming thither, others are
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04
HAWAII VERY HAPPY,
OVERLOOKED AT THE NEWS OF
ANNEXATION.
Coptic's Arrival Greeted with Sa1utcs
and Music-Peop1c Stop Business
Bands Play Patriotic American Airs
and a Procession Is Formed.
Honolulu Jubilant.

Hawaii is in the Union and feels it, The
roar of cannon, the cheers of enthusiasm,
the unfurlng of the Stars and Stripes
from every house top and vantage point,
which greeted the news the Coptic
brought to Honolulu, has been repeated
to the other islands of the group as fast
as the message of annexation reached
them. And the echo of their enthusiasm
came back to Honolulu to redouble and
re-enforce the swelling food of exultation
and demonstrative satisfaction.
Never was vessel more truly n gospel
ship, bringing good news to those who
heard it gladly. than the Coptic when she
came in last Wednesday afternoon, July
13, with flags floating from every mast
and streamers and pennants from every
shroud and stay. While she was still far
out at sea the message she bore was read
in her signal pennants, and to every vii
lage and plantation and house on the isl
and of Oahu the news was sent, by tele-
phone and messenger. and by that subtle
mode of swift communication which ev-
cry primitive people has. and which the
native Hawaiians have not forgotten.
With the spread of the news there be-
housetops and doorways and from tall CO.
coanut palms and hilltops and mountain
peaks, as though the spirit of freedom
had just turned loose upon whole peO-
pie until, to an aeronaut, the whole isl
and would have looked like a garden of
red and blue flowers against the back
ground of tropical green.
The whole population was awake, alert,
each to assure himself that the news so
long hoped for, so often deferred, had
come at last; to grasp its full meaning
and to exchange with his neighbors mu-
tual congratulations. Business ceased.
Buyers deserted the stores and merchants
their counting rooms to join in the streets
and at the wharf their fellow citizens in
celebrating their great event. Factories
closed. Work everywhere came TO a
standstill. I'VE are Americans" was the
only theme upon which men would talk.
The steamship Coptic arrived from San
Francisco on the evening of the 18th
inst, with the important news that the
United States Senate had ratified the
Newlands resolution. making Hawaii a
part of the United States. Long before
the vessel had reached the harbor it was
known that the steamer brought annexa-
ton news, the information being signalled
to the Mohican.
After the Coptic was docked the official
message of Minister Hatch announcing
annexation was read from the balcony of
the Government building and was greeted
with intense enthusiasm. The Govern
ment band played American national airs
and the people went wild. Then there
was an informal procession and cheer
ing thousands marched through the
streets. 1t was far in the night before
the patriotic Jubilee ended.
The Hocking sentinel. [volume] (Logan, Ohio) 1871-1906, 1898-08-04
Hooley Wrote His Own Puffs.

Ernest T. Hooley. the London specala-
tor and company promoter, against whom
a receiving order was issued upon his own
petition several weeks ago, was examined
in the bankruptcy court Wednesday. Mr..
Hooley said that he had paid Earl Del
awarr f2J. 1000 TO act as chairman of the
Dunlop Tire Company and had paid the
board of directors of the company alto
gether 100000. Lord Albemarle, he said,
received f12.500. and two solicitors re-
ceived 100000 each in addition to their
fees.
Besides these payments he had paid
Mr.. Kirby f1,000 for the privilege of
writing his own article in the Financial
Post, and Sheridan and Kirby, the pro-
prietors of that paper. further received
f2,50O. He also paid Mr.. Marks of the
Financial News 100000. but said that
this was not for the insertion of articles
in the paper