Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1898-08-26
FOR AUTUMN WEAR
u a 49, ! +. 81 ~ u IN ~
Plain Goods in l.vor With Plaid
trimmings.
= 4fF feaE -
Nil ny Gustoas and Br ID Will Be 10 Fash.
ion,

New fall capes for dressy wear are
extremely, novel in shape. and give the
quaint sloping effect to the shoulders
OF the wearer such as Is seen in old
fashioned daguerrotypes OF 1860.
Others have small close fitting yokes,
or deep. stawl-shaped portions, finished
at the lower edge by circular fiounces.
The military cape. too. IL great
feature Of younger wOmen's wardrobes.
These latter garments are made of
navy blue or gray military cloth, lined
with scarlet and trimmed with gold
cord and brass buttons. Hoods lined
to match the capes can be worn with
them or not. as preferred, and certain
iy are picturesque addition. especial
ly when framing a piquant face during
an evening stroll in the crisp fall
nights.
The box Jacket is favorite for early
fall wear. says the Philadelphia Times.
The box effect appears only in front.
the back being tight-fitting. with
pleated extensions below the waist line.
Hoods are used on some of these
Jackets. and the collars are high and
fiaring. Most of the new Jackets close
double breasted, contrary to the close
= fitting waists and basQues, which as i
rule close down the center. Little
children's jackets have large cape col
lars. and on some deep turned-up cuffs.
The new Dewey" skirt, OF which
every woman has one. Is simply the
Spanish fOunce renamed. The shape
and depth OF the fiounce vary in differ
ent designs. but the general effect re-
mains the same.
The close fitting waist or basque for
street wear is gaining in popularity.
Some have a loose vest. and others
just the faintest suggestion of a blouse.
Plain goods Of all kinds will be popu-
lar this fall. although checks and
plaids will also be worn to some extent.
not only to make entire costumes, bu;
for borders and facings on the plain
cloths
Wool crepcns will be among the
dressy fall and winter materials. These
are shown in black and in color COM
binations, and in most novel and ar
tistic weaves.
Tailor-made garments of silk are
stylish, handsome and new. The
Jackets and coats are generally worn
with wooden skirts. and MORE antique
faille Franchise or peau de sole are the
favorite materials For elderly ladies
the silk wraps are made long enough
to entirely conceal the dress beneath
OF course. black is the favorite hue
for such garments.
Position backs are again popular,
so, too. are the small. removable
basques or basquines. which are SC
arranged on belt that they can be
NJ a Mt cd i'm tod 10 rnt,r6 iSt
Revers appear, both large and small
and in infinite variety of shape
Epaulettes continue on basques and
waists. hutmhave not .been utilized tC
any great extent on coats and jackets
A new material is known as taupin-
cite. which translated means mole
skim" the goods in, question being a
light weight: smooth surfaced cloth
which comes in all the new shades OF
gray. ..t.~.
Sleeves are now made in many cases
without any fullness at the shoulder
whatever. darts securing the correct
shaping. Contrariwise. other sleeves
equally fashionable are pleated or
gathered at the side edges. producing a
puff at the upper part. A par
ticularly pretty sleeve is corded for a
considerable distance from the top.
This is a most attractive design for
development in silk. light woolens
pOplins. etc.
Matelasse and cloths in matelassa
effects will be very popular for cloaks
and capeS this winter. Some of the
silk weaves have the design in such
bold relief that it appears to be applied
over an UNDERSTANDING.
Vandyking is fashionable not only for
collars. but for sleeve wrists, lower
edges of capes and jackets, etc. Some
times fan pleatings or silk of contrast
Ing color are set beneath the slashes
or cores or cloth. plain or embroidered
are inserted.
Satin will remain a favorite material
throughout the fall and winter f"r
separate waists. Striped taffeta will
also be largely used for these. Indeed
skirts ana entire costumes. even for
the debutante. although for the latter
IT VIII probably be yelled with net
Artillery red and army blue are the
most favored colors at present They
s appear r,v without mixture IN many of the
PLAIN PLAIN cloths, and In combination in che
some cloth for jackets and costumes
has the outside a mixture of the above
coloTS ana the under surface of artillery
red.
The five and seven-gored skirts vie in
popularity with the Dewey nounced
skirt: The latter appears as well, II
not better. when developed in heavy
cloths. AS when made of lighter ma.
terials. Few of the plain gored skirt.
measure over four yards at the lower
edge.
Ribbon continues to be a favorite
trimming for house dresses: satin
MORE velvet varieties are all used
and are put on either plain, in ruffies
or ruching.
Military effects of all kinds will be
war lasts. Gold cord and braid and
brass buttons appear on Jackets. cloaks
basQues and entire costumes, even the
most conservative women yielding to
this patriotic fancy. On dark cloths
when not too much of it Is used. the
gold braid looks very striking and
handsome. but 1t is to be feared tina,
there will be such a deluge of these
trimmings before the fall is over that
even the most loyal will be surfeited
WhipcOrd. vigoureux and diagonal are
three materials which are bound to hold
prominent place throughout the cold
weather. Double vale diagonal is new
and handsome.
From all foreign accounts passemen-
terie will play a large part in cape deco.
ration this winter. Velvet capes will
he embroidered in let and SnanC1pS over