The times., 1898-08-07
The Fayorite Midsummer Hal OF
The Season.
SWEET FEMININE GUILE
Bewftchfng Gypsy Shoes Explain
tke Mystery OF 0ver-BonG Skirts.
Jewel Caslsefs No Longer Contain
the Pretty Mock Stones of Last
Seasoa-isaIf-Mourn

spreadig her plumes or noting those
of her neighbors.
Truth 70 tell, there is a very lively dis
pay OF sartorial fancles TO attract atten-
ton and nothing is of more interest to
the curious than the smart outing Gus
TUNES Of women in mourning. A skirt of
ink black pique. relieved by divers small
flaHnces Of black lawn, edged with white
lace and every ruffie headed by row OF
narrow white braid. is sure to make
striking point in any landscape with
such a garment the mourners assume
white pique coats. the broad revers, col
lars and cuffs Of black pique. and THIS
goes over a black muslin shirt waist
1nelv striped in white. Women who are
not rnourners wear short white twill coats
faced on revers, cuffs and collar with 4
bright solid color.
Black and white fiat straw. braided
in sailor shape. is the choice nat among
those who are i'll summer black, ana
instead OF the sailor Of fami!iaf loiin i
new variety is conspicuous. Inc
French sailor, il IS called. having a
rather small. high crown, and brim
that is wider than usual. inclnlng dis
tjnclly. down toward the face. The rib
bon that clasps the crown Is tied to one
side. and TWO narrow little streameTs
fitttter over the right ear. On the whole.
these are more becoming than the hard
and fast little head box we have worn
so long and united femininity seems 10
favor sailors of mixed straws. a pialn
white round straw, with a black or
white ribbon band is falling out OF good
grace, and if there is any generalization
vet TO be indulged in with regard TO
trimmed hats. it is to comment on the
multiplication Of the small tall Shapes.
Women, whose clothes are Significant
Of the f,I ure. certainly do not wear
wide 'headpieces. They Will tell you
that the queer pretty crown-saaped al
fairs of tulle they go calling IN, are
Peter the Great hats; but 50 far you
cant find one Of these "a the millIner 5
Explain what you want, ana she Wiil
smile a significant by and by smile
which plainly enough indicates that
this and all the other new styles OF
rodues mus. be waited for until the au-
turnn Meanwhile. il you wish 10 run
shoulder 20 shoulder with the fashions,
you can adopt a pretty black lace Napo-
leon toque, set far back on your head ana
waving with large light plumes. Very far
down on the ears come the points OF TINS
lace or tulle cap, but to most women the
effect is becoming.
There is a pretty plague of white leg
horns raging in the country settlements
this month-wide brimmed children
shapes and invariably trimmed one OF
two ways Either a scarf of mousseline
brilIiante striped with many rows OF mar
row yellow lace, ruffied on, is wound ana
knotted about the crown, or vatican
wreath of pink roses encircles one-half or
crown and low-hanging brirn, with TUFTS
of green grenadine ribbon completing the
decoration. One would think the period
of dotass was falling earlier than hither-
an a
babyish hats can be taken as an indica-
tfon. Mothers of well-seasoned daughters
pin these white and rose cOnfections, mt
for schoolgirls, their grizzling heads
and go forth content, conspicuous and
ridiculous
Reside the leghorn fats, women. who
gather on green lawns at the thresholds
OF clubhouses of bright afternoons, dis
DIav rather widish hats Of deep yellow
broom straw. fancifully trimmed with
brown. gold and green field grasses,
dab Of lace and maybe a knot Of ribbon
The aIl-straw hat, though, is looked upon
as the most distinctly fashionable head
covering one can wear and its vogue is
strong with those who display very fetch
ing 0rgandies. muslins, lawn cross bars
and such like eXtravagant simpheitles.
Fxcept a six velvet dress trimmed s-th
sable. there Is scarcely another costume
quite 50 costly as an aH-white mus.ll'
for muslin 5rilliante is what the mohl-
+ors II fashion have adopted. This is
swiss with A six warp and only the
lower ha'f OF the bodice and upper hall
If the skirt are ever made of it. The
sweet white gown calls for a deep founce
Of tarnboalred cream net, and then on th5
foot of this must be close set muslin ruf-
fes all edged with narrow sort WlIt'
cr0s grain ribbon. At back and front IN
skirt must sweep the floor in order Z
ha n
rTiaht white net sleeves require showers
of l5ttEf. rfhbon-edged ruffies falling "Val
the knuckles, and 10 cap this mcdish cli-
max q big nosegav Of white sweet IA
should find lodgment on the left shoulder.
There is always a deep laid plot behlnd
every aJDarently inexplicable wEim Of
the chanseful feminine toilet. Whose
ever viii lake especial notice at any
swa--nline Of pret-y human butterflies car
easily guess why long skirts have beer
nominated in this seasons bond OF fash
ion A woman whose gown is a couple
of inches too long in front is obliged
many, many times in an hour TO daintill
lift up the front breadths. in order tha
she may not trip over. While so doini
she does expose perhaps a trifie more o
her green or gray suede gypsy shoes thai
one would ordinarily, or thus, by this art
ful maneuver. call public attention to he
Venetian slippers. both styles of footgea
being eminenuy worthy of display and al
miratOn.
A gypsy shoe is made of green glace
kid, with a low heel. a square toe and q
chased silver buckle, connecting twc
straps that cross high on the insteF
Very often pretty pattern is cut OF
pressed into the leather. and green sill
hose, exactly matching the shoe, ara
worn with this tidy slipper.
Venetian sandals are assumed chiefly
at night for dances and dinners. Then
black satin vamps are cut as low as pos
sible over the toe which is rounded, and
the heel Is gilded, 10 harmonize with tn
delicate geometric lines of gold embroid
cry that are fretted out over the bIacl
background Occasionally one sees wor
with these black silk stockings heaYil
interviewer with gold threads; but an uf
pleasant suspicion fingers that this typ
OF hosiery never can be permitted 70 visi
the wasIltub. Most sensible and becom
ing of all the Summer shoes seen 50 Ga
are the oxford ties of willow calf.
Women who boast that all Summer Ion
they wear nothing more costly than whit
duck and pique skirss and shirts, who CT
these same skirts ankle short and haS
discarded stiff linen collars for soft piqu
stocks have taken the willow calf sho
TO their hearts as well as their feet. The
extol its merits far over the virtues
pigskin. yellow sealshin and Russi
leather and invariably lace their new tic
with leather thongs. in place of silk lacer
That woman errs who adds to her to
let by day any undue amount of jewels
Last Winter mock stones, elaborate bel
- a L