davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

velop still greater possibilities. The guimpe
style OF gown, SO much worn this winter. will
flourish In the most fascinating guise in tho
summer fashions IL rumor is correct, and with
skirts opening at the sides over panels of a con-
trastinR material which matches the yoke and
sleeves there will be the illusion OF two gowns
worn to yether. Some Of the contrasts used for
Jokes and sleeves are more noticeable for differ
cnce in material than in color; for example,
white satin is employed with pale tints of pink
and gray, or the under bodice and sleeves may
be of velvet matching the gown in color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

all the modes in prospect. The extra rufles at
the back help to give the graceful flare to the
dress skirt just where it is needed to produce a
pretty outline to the figure.
The new nightgowns arc good rivals to the tea
gowns as regards elaborate decoration and gen
eral extravaganza, for there seems to be no limit
to the amount of f%iufiness and expense given
to some of these ornate corrections. which
should have n more aesthetic name. The pretti-
est of these garments are made of fine nainsook,
like all tho daintiest Undertaking, and the
skirt part is much fuller than the regulation
nightgown for ordinary wear. The fulness Is
gathered into n belt of embroidered or lace in
%sertion, through which ribbon Is run, and tho
bottom is finished in n broad hem with a tiny
beading of embroidery. This little beading is q
feature of all tho fine underwear, and Is
used to finish all the hens and seams, even
around the armhole. The waists of the night
gowns nre yariously made with blouse effect,
striped across with insertion, q little low in the
neck. with a lace-edged frill for a finish and
rosette bows of satin ribbon on the shoulders.
Ribbon bows are a conspicuous element in the
finish of all the now gowns whatever the trim
ming may be, and none Is complete without tho
sash at the waist and bows on tho sleeves and
shoulders.
One pretty style shown in the illustration has
a Marie Antoinette fichu of the fine nainsook
made with a wide insertion and edging of Flor
Cntine lace. This forms n round collar effect in
the back and points down to the waist in front,
which Is low at the neck, finished across above
the bust with a band of the lace insertion. The
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

lions In trimmings and ono Of the prettiest
models opens at either side over panels of con,
trasting material. Some are bloused n little at
the belt. and perfect fitting should be the special
feature of every gown or 1t cannot be an entire
success. The old but very rational advice to
cultivate a back II you would have a stylish air
about you can be accepted with q new signih-
canoe now that the lines of the figure arc to be
defined 90 clearly, and II behOoves every woman
TO practice the art Of standing In n correct posi-
tion. A good back is an important feature of
that coveted, Undesirable something called
style. and you may DO blessed with untold
wealth and az beautiful us u goddess in the face,
but II you miss this one element OF nineteenth
century success In fashion you lose the enviable
point to BIO gained In an up-to-dato appearance.
One new skirt model in blue cloth has q yoke
around the hips not more than nine inches wide,
where II points down u little in front and at the
back. This Ia turned In on the edge and
stitched over on the skirt. which is cut to DIT
without any fulness, except directly In tho
back. where two plaits meeting In the centre
dispose of the extra width. This yoke Is fitted
as carefully as II 1t were a bodice. and Is quito
as close and plain at the back as in front
Rows of braid trim either side of the front
breadth and outline the yoke all around.
Our spring gowns are TO be decorated very Law
iSbly, too. particularly in all the ways which
can DO accomplished with q needle IN dainty
handwork. With all the pretty tucking. cord.
Ing, stirring. and embroidery done by hand, and
the pretty contrasts employed 10 give the gown
= striking effect at a distance. dressmakIng has
Sse0'ns q high art which seems likely to de-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

Yokes are as popular as ever, and will con-
tinue to hold their own through the coming
season. The bodice with a yoke has a youthful
appearance which Is very fetching. and quite
enough to 10 to any woman's favor.
Something novel In material for the yoke ia the
problem now. A heavy lace over satin Ia mar
haps the most common. but you can change it's
appearance entirely by outlining some of the
flowers in the pattern with white satin baby
ribbon gathered on one edge, II requires a sec
ond look to know what the material is when the
ribbon Is added.
Ribbon gathered and ribbon plain are very
much used for trimming our summer gowns.
Colored grenadines and black nets made up for
wear in the South during the early spring show
many rutiies edged with one, two, or three rows
OF ribbon. One model in pale green and white
grenadine 10 ruified to the knee. each rufle being
edged with h~alfinch white satin ribbon. This
gathered on one edge forms a coil design In the
front OF the full bodice. and the small round
yoke Is OF lace over satin. Both black satin and
velvet ribbon are pretty in the black net dresses
which are trimmed with rufiles galore. One of
these in microbe net has hve rufios about five
inches wide edged with black satin ribbon
overlapping each other in front and rounding up
at the back where they separate to cover a
much wider space. The yoke is OF yellow velvet
embroidered with jet.
Lace gowns are to be very much worn, and
black Chantilly. with white chiffon under.
meath over a white ta1feta silk lining, is very
charming. Tulle is used in combination with
tho lace for sleeves shirred into puffs, and for
little ruches to trim the edge OF the skirt and
the bodice. The only bit OF color is introduced at
the waist with a belt and sash ends of cerise.
green. or violet satin ribbon. Bengallnes are
very much used for every sort Of dressy gown,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

The princess slip is another specially in the
underwear department. and IL is really a dreso
for wearing underneath thin summer gowns.
1t is made Of taffeta silk. with pinkcd rufties
around the bottom, or of fine white lawn
or batiste, with lace-trimmed ruf1es to tho
knee. The bodice, to which the skirt is attachct
with n belt. Is low cut, fulled a little like a bnby
waist and trimmed around the armholes. as is
at tho neck. with narrow lace. Ono slip Of this
sort can servo its purpose with several gowns,
SO It need not be a great extravaganza.
Among other pretty things in lingerie is tho
house jacket-tea jacket or breakfast sacque.
whatever you may choose TO call, it-nnd II, is
prettier than ever this season and more varied
in style. Nuns yelling, silk, fine nainsook,
lawn, and French flannel are tho materials EN-.
ployed. Nuns yelling In pale blue SILK. plated.
middle Of tho back. where They fall a little below
the ribbon belt. which fastens at either side
with a bow, The front, which is Al pI,aits.
is several inches longer than the back
and hangs loose from the shoulders. Around
the shoulder Is n fchu of white chiffon
with wide. very creamy lace on the edge, which
falls In. points to the hem in front. Some OF
these jackets have a blouse front and fit in ut
the sides; others hang loose from a yoke which
is striped with insertion. The d~aintiest Of all Is
a sacquo of fine white lawn, striped all over,
sleeves and all. with lace insertion, and finished
with a jabot in front. The sleeves are full and
straight, in a sort of cape fashion. which 10
especially pretty for warm weather.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

The sleeve which Is literally tight fitting
without any puff at all at the top appears in
some of tho latest gowns. It gathers just q
little over the shoulder to give room for the
arm. and the little epaulette partially compen.
safes for tho loss of the becoming Duff. Another
conspicuous IL not novel feature OF the new
gowns made for those who are fortunate enough
to find their way South at this time Of the year
is the necktie or huge bows with frilled or jabot
ends. They are made Of silk. lace. tulle. and
chiffon, and are an inseparable part Of every
costume from silk velvet to tho daintest gauze.
One OF the new gowns for spring shown in the
illustration 10 Of violet cloth made with the
close-itting bodice and skirt TO give the slender
effect. The upper part of the bodice is of mauve
satin. covered with a lattice of black velvet rib
bon dotted with small gold buttons. The lower
skirt 10 a circular hounce trimmed with velvet
put on In points and studded with buttons. A
belt OF black velvet with q gold buckle e~ncircles
the waist. and the jaunty little cape of cloth has
q velvet yoke, black feather trimming on the
edge and feather tips around the Medict collar.
Another gown in princess style Is Of velvet. with
fur around the bottom and bands Of black lace
insertion over white satin. The skirt opens over
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

or FIVE ruffles will extend all around, the upper
one rising to complete the apron effect. In
some of the new silk skirts these rufies are fin
ished simply with a French hem. which is made
by turning the edge up on the right side In a
hem tbree-quarters of an inch wide and stitch
ing it on the machine. The only troublesome
part of this simple finish is reversing the seams
for the width desired in the hem.
White lawn skirts are also trimmed In this
apron fashion. to suit the scheme Of slenderness
in appearance, which seems to be the one aim in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06
Sure Enough Love in Maine.
FROM the Le,ciston journal.

From the Letofsfon journal.
Do you want to know what true love really isP
Just interview that Augusta young woman who re-
Gently called on an Augusta dentist and requested
him to extract as hne n set Of teeth as one generally
secs. explaining this strange request by remarkina
that her lover wore false teeth aud she wanted To dc
the same.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06
ETTY LING ERIE.
New Designs Dainty Enough TO Make Women
IForget Resolutions OF Economy.

Pretty lingerie is always fascinating to the
woman with refined taste and that indefnable
quality Of daintiness Fabout her which has a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-02-06

subtle charm of its own; and to deny herself the
attractive things in underwear is an act of self
sacrifice that never can be fully appreciated by
those who are not literally endowed with this
charming and very feminine characteristic.
Certainly the new designs brought out in the
advance supply OF novelties for spring are
enough to make almost any woman forget every
resolution she has ever made in tho interests of
economy and provident living, and all the re-
form undergarments which emancipated women
can invent will never gathe popularity enough
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21
NO COURTEsIEs WANTED.
Vizcaya's Commander VIII Accent
No RospitaIities.

NEW YORK, Feb. 20.-Upon the re-
ce1pt of a telegram stating that tba
NlZcaya had anchored off Tomnkins
Vile, S. l., Senor Don Manuel de Suar-
ez, secretary of the consul general of
Spain in this city, accompanied bv a
representative of the Associated Press
proceeded to the Warship in the t11o
Lohman, to deliver mail and kilograms
to the officers
An oflcer and guard of four marines
received the secretary of the consul
ate, and card to Capt Antonio Eu-
late led to an invitation to proceed TO
MS quarters aft on the main deck
There a very friendly reception await
ed Senor Don Manuel de Suarez ana
the reporter
In an interview with the Associated
Press representative, Capt. E1Ia ta
said that while his ship was in this
port his officers would accept no inyi-
tat1ons Of any kind. The Spanish war
ship had come here on a visit of cour-
tesy and friendship, and when the
dreadful accident to the Maine was
learned the flags We're put at haIf
mast, and there they would remain un-
til the ship took her departure
He likened his visit to that of ona
intimate friend to another, when dis
aster had overtaken the latter. the
same delicacy dictated what to do. to
4i-ONi II with Tie 1TISEu ana TO avoid
all festfvtty. No invitations of a So
cial character would be aceepted-this
he wished to have understood.
Referring to the catastropne that had
overtaken the Maine, he declared thar
he and his officers We're greatly shock
ed, and that the sympathy of all was
with the families who had lost those
near and dear He said that he had
duly sent a telegram to the secretary
of the navy expressing his sentiments
and those of the officers.
Capt. Eulate. when asked how long
the ship would remain in port. said
that he had no orders from his gov
ern1nent, but he evidently expects to
be here for some time. He was elo-
quent In his praise of his ship during
the hurricane met between the Ber-
mudas and Cape Hatteras. She rode
the heavy seas without an effort, and.
although the storm lasted thirty-four
hours. no accident of any kind occur
red.
The vizcaya has a full crew of en-
gineers, marines. torpedo corps, and
carries ten torpedoes, marine artillery
men, quartermasters and other officers
and diver, a total complement of 1872
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21

couftesleS of the port which is thn
usual formality whenever a foreign v,a,,
vessel arrives in American watars
Lieut. Ward remained on board about
quarter of an hour, and as he de-
scehqed the gangWay on his return TO
.Lr 1iie onalhe' the royal Spanish ensign
was put at half mast This wes tba
frst sign that the spectators af1oet
ana ashore were given that the viz
lung craft was aware of the disaster
IN Havana harbor. Capt. Eulate Or
dered the f1ag at half mast as q token
OIL regret for the death of the America n
sailors. va
Watch Is Set
Meanwhile the marines who were 10
take up the first watch were taken
from the Nina to the Narkeeta as wara
also tour police and a roundsman. A
row BOAT containing three men. two Of
Whom were rowing and the third sit-
.iHS IN the stern, came out from Tonon
klhSVllle and headed for the VtzcaIIa
Inc Nina intercepted the little craft
ana, IN response to inquiries the man
IN the stern said that he had telegra -
ITg IUI the commander of the cruiser
w hen this information was transformed
TO capt. Eulate the latter told Tlia,lt
Ward to let the boat come alongside
ana also that he would see any news
paper reporters who wished to come
ABOARD. AS soon as this was made
known to the press boats which were
hoVef1ng around, a number of news
paper men accepted the invitation, and
III less than ten minutes Wera oil
aboard plying questions to the com
Alander ana officers of the cruiser.
Whlle all this was taking nIaca tho
Clo"os on Shore became larger and tha
keenest interest was taken in
every movement of the different yes
sels. Lieut.. Dougherty will remain in
the vicinity of the cruiser while she re-
mains IN port and will direct every de-
Idh regarding the protective watch
IRON o'clock this afternoon untiI
midnight tonight the Nina and NarlIae-
Ia VIII patrol the waters in the neioh-
porhood Of the vessel Thev will he ro-
IeVed at midnight by the tugs Daniel
>. Lamont and Scout in command of
captains Thomas A. Keyes and IT p
corey These boats are provided hv
the supervisor of the port Thev viii
take on the police and marine guards
anu anu remain on watch until o'clock to-
morrow morning. At that hour four
police launches manned by policemen
ana marines will go on duty and stand
by until O'Clock tomorrow afternoon
then the naval tugs will take I'D the
same positions which they assumed
this afternoon. These are. the plans 81
far arranged by Lieut. Dougherty and
they are not likely to be changed. All
the vessels mentioned will remain off
,toInpklnsV1lle until the Vizcaya leaves
nef anchorage and points out to sea
In case the cruiser comes through tba
upper bay and anchors in the North
river the patrol boats and the tugs will
accompany her and the same arrange
ments will maintain.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21

from Skaguay the road will be built
over an alluVIal flat, rising but 140 feet
From this point the work will be much
more difficult. The next mile and one
third is through a gulch rising 400 feet
to Black lake. Then for three and three
quarter miles, to the summit Of Porcu-
pine hill, the rise is 1000 feet. Tt is
down grade 500 feet to the Skaguay
RIVER. There is an up grade of /, 900
feet in the next four miles In the
next mile and a half the rise is geo
feet to the summit of White pass. From
this point to Lake Bennett, TWENTY
four miles, it is straight away down
grade, through a rocky, glaciated coun-
try, much broken by valleys. Mr.
Bracket thinks he could have the new
road ready for operation Sept. l.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21

PARIS, Feb. 20-Two thousand peo-
PIE assembled this afternoon in front
of the st. Pelagie prison. well known
as a prison for offending Journalists
to greet Henri Rochefort, editor of the
lntransigeant, on entering to serve a
sentence of five days imprisonment for
lbeling Jose Renach, Conservative
deputy for the district Of Digne and
editor of the Republique Francaise
charging him with intending to prove
the innocence of Alfred Dreyfus by the
use of forged documents
At first there were no signs of force
to preserve order, but, as the crowd
increased, company of republican
guards, headed by buglers and drum
mers, a detachment of police and two
squadrons of cuirassiers were drawn
up on each side of the square in front
of the prison. The troops were re-
ceived with cries of "Vive larmee." 1t
was 4 o'clock before M. Rochefort ar
rived. The crowd f1ocked around his
carriage, shouting "Vive Rochefort''
and 'Vive la commune" the police be-
ing poWerlesS to restrain them. NJ.
ROchefort alighted, waving his hand
kerchief, and, escorted by the people,
walked to the prison gates.
About fifty of his friends, including
Ernest Roche, one Of the deputies for
Paris, the editor of LIE Jour, and the
assistant editors of the Intransigeant
accompanied him inside the building
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21
rain was stalled almost on the main

train was stalled almost on the main
street.
Manitowoc, Wis.-The severest storm of
the year has been raging since yesterday
and still continues. Only one train has ar
rived since yesterday afternoon.
Ishpeming, Mich.-The worst storm of
the season in Marquette county Street car
service is suspended and all trains delayed.
Ashland, Wis.-By far the worst storm
of the season began last night and has
continued all day Northwestern trains
have been abandoned, and on the Central
line the trains are five hours late.
Racine, Vision account of the storm
street cars were taken off today. Services
in the churches were given up. Not
train was run on the St. Paul branch to
Western Union junction.
DETROIT, Mich, Feb. 20.-RaiIroad
traffic is badly tied up in Northern
Michigan, the result of the unusual
snow storm which has prevailed since
last night. Mackinaw City reports all
trains on the Mackinaw division Of the
Michigan Central Cancelled, and trains
badly blockaded on other roads.
At Petoskey the snow is four feet
deep on the level and badly drifted-
Street cars are tied up, and all traffic
delayed at Marquette and Ishpeming.
Trains on the western division of the
Flint & Pere Marquette road are ex-
periencing much delay, and the Sagl-
nav street cars are unable to operate.
Conditions are scarcely less severe IN
Western Michigan.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21
SIGSBEE IS SILENT.
commander of the Maine Has Ex-
pressed No Opinion as to the
Explosion.

WASHINGTON, Feb. 20.-Capt. Sigs-
Dee today sent two ca Diagrams to the
navy department on the subject of in
tefViews with him. The first said:
nave consistently refrained from ev
pressing any opinion of the Maine disos-
te: -1"'"e uiS's-
Later in the day he wired:
No newspaper divers have been used on
the wreck of the Maine. One man engaged
Dy me was subsequently bought uD by
newspaper l declined his services. sub
sequently on his being uncondtionally re-
ieased, might have used him in charge
OF an officer in recovering bodies but de-
cided not to do so. ANY interviews with
me, If printed, untrue.
The navy department tonight re-
ceiVed the following telegram from
Capt. Stgsbee:
Following is the condition of our
: wounded In Havana hospitals: Apprentice
koebler, slight Improvement, condition
sun very grave; Holzer, same; Allen,
slight Improvement condition grave
fieHroh, Shea, Mattison, favorable; Loft
tus, convalescent; Cahil, improved. but
grave; Mack, Waters and Weber. favora-
BILE.
The report on the same subject from
Capt. Forsythe, at Key West. says:
Maine survivors all in good condition
this morning. Surgeon reports wounded
doing well
The following telegram was received
by Secretary Long today from New
York:
Arrived at New York. heard of the Maine
disaster; feel very sorry, and send condo
lence for the dead and their families
-Eulate and Spanish Cruiser Vzcaya.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-02-21
CUBAN AID INADEQUATE.
Ccnsuls Complain That Only Havana
Sufferers Are Getting


HAVANA, Feb. 20.-Some friction. it
is reported, has occurred between Con-
sui General Lee and the other United
States consuls in the island over the
distribution of funds and supplies sent
from the United States for the recon-
centrados. The complaint is made that.
though food and money have been
coming for several weeks, nothing has
been distributed outside Havana prov
ince. Consul Barker, of Sagua la
Grande, and Consul Bryce, of Matan-
zas, who came here to learn the partic-
ulars of the Maine explosion, left, It
is said, without calling on the consul
general The reason given was that
they felt they had not been treated
fairly by the consul general. Each ex-
pected aid for his district from the
American supplies, but received none.
The statement is made that it is their
intention to appeal directly to the
American state department, and to ask
that food be consigned to them instead
of to the Havana consulate.
The incident has caused some COM
ment among Americans here, who re-
gret it. Consul Bryce says he is sick at
the sights forced on him during the
last two years. He has reported the
facts of the case to Washington, and
believes his district entitled to a share
Immediately in the aid offered Consul
Barker says that few days ago he
found a man dead of want in the mar
ket place of Sagua la Grande The min
lister took up a collection, appealing to
all classes, but so great is the general
impoverishment that it yielded only
$3.50. Both consuls say that this dis
tress must grow daily, and that death
will keep pace with it unless relief is
afforded.
Consul General Lee, when these mat
ters were brought to his attention, re-
piled that there was not the slightest
intention to neglect the reconcentrados
in the Eastern provinces, but he point
ed out that Havana. being the largest
city, was consequently more in need of
succor He asserted that he had writ
ten the consuls that everything possl-
BILE would be done for sufferers in these
localities as soon as supplies are avail
able, but the relief thus far has been
nowhere near commensurate with the
necessity. He has deputed much of the
work Of distribution to Miss Clara Bar
ton, who has the confidence of all par
ties and who is almost constantly at
work in conjunction with the special
agent of the consul general