The San Francisco call., 1898-01-30

sleeves are straight and tight; they are composed of small pleats of white mousseline de soie, in circles round the arms, each edged with five rows of thread lace insertion. At the shoulders are mancherons of pearl gray china crape edged with fur. The corsage is kind of blouse, fastened at the waist with band of cerise taffetas, which runs beneath the lace frill and reap pears in the center in front. This waist band is fastened by a bow of the same material, with long ends.
 In this establishment I have seen some short vests resembling to some extent what are known as coiffeuses or matinees, but more dressy and better fitting. These are made in fine linen.
 Tea jackets are now taking the place of tea gowns. They are embroidered velvet or velvet embroidered with gold, of satin CT damask, trimmed with fur face or embroidery in chenille. This is most convenient kind of garment; it takes the place of the corsage and can be worn with any kind of skirt.
 At Gaston Vaille's 1 have seen a cor sage of sky blue taffetas covered with five rows of white English application insertion over white taffetas. These insertions are encircled with narrow chicorees of white ribbon. which run in scallops around the front The neck trimming is of sky blue velvet, draped The sleeves are very tight and are trimmed at the shoulders with puffs of sky blue taffetas covered with man. cherons of turquoise velvet, edged with a repetition of the trimming on the front. Beneath each mancheron is a design in English application lace over white taffetas, forming a triangular point. The wrists are lined with tur- quoise velvet and edged with chicorees of white taffetas. This is a very pretty corsage to wear indoors.
 Here is a description of a very simple yet pretty design from Mime. Henri cites. It is jacket of navy blue cloth. a blouse in shape, with panel basques, each embroidered with a light pattern in black braid. This jacket is orna- mented with shawl lapels, ending in point, edged with claret velvet cut on the cross. The Waistband is made of the same velvet, fastened in front with a strass buckle. The neck trimming is similar, but embroidered with black and surmounted with a plain blue cloth collar edged with claret velvet. The sleeves are tailor made. slightly puffed in the upper part and close from the elbow to the wrist, where they are braided with a light pattern in black. The hat worn with this jacket is of black felt, with broad velvet ribbon draped around the crown and a tuft of four feathers, the two lower ones con- fined by a strass buckle
 The very latest novelty from Paris de- signed for fair femininity is the corset chenise. Why it should have received this name is a mystery. for it is really more of a negligee in the empire style. Tn examining the new garment one is forced to wonder where all the extray- agance and luxury In women's under wear is going to endl The up-to-date swell woman is the daintiest, most ex- quisite creature, so far as undergar- ments are concerned, that one could imagine.
 When a confection costing sixty. seventy and ninety dollars is shown you, and you are told that the said piece of elegance is to be worn simply