The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-02-27
FOR FEMININE READERS
SUGGESTIONS THAT SHOW THE
DRIFT OF THE SPRING FASHIONS.
Women's Dread Of Looking Old Real
Iy Makes Them OId--"Congress of
Mothers" Instruct Mothers.

A pretty way to freshen an old black SILK
or satin gown is to cover it from hem to
belt with rutfies Of black net edged with one
or two rows Of black velvet or satin rib
bon. says a fashion writer. Ruffied skirts,
worn fully a year ago in Paris, are very
much in evidence here among the newest
dress models, and no doubt they will in
crease in number as the season advances.
Unfortunately, American women are slow
to adopt the new fancies of fashion, espe-
cially when the difference between the old
and the neS Is very marked, so we are
months behtld the French in this partic-
ular.
Crepe de chine is very popular material
for gowns, and odd waists to wear with
white or black skirts. 1t comes in all the
dainty light colors, and many of@these ex-
ira bodices are made very simply with very
fine tucks all across the shoulders, form
ing a yoke which extends a little over the
sleeves, epaulet fashion. A group Of tucks
continues down the front on either side,
where pretty jeweled or olive buttons Of
pearl or turquoise are the only decoration.
The neck finish is either a tie with a sailor
knot made Of the same crepe, or a soft net
or null tie with lace ends tied in bow, or
white ribbon passed twice around and tied
in a sailors knot. The sleeves are shirred
or tucked the entire length, and, like the
new sleeves, there is very little extra full
ness at the top.
The diminution Of the sleeves from ball
looms to something like normal dimensions
has been very diplomatic, letting us down
so gradually that this small sleeve we have
dreaded so long is really pleasing object;
any way, it is here with almost no puffiness
at the top, and we might as well accept it.
The real novelties in materials are among
the colored grenadines in silk, and silk and
wool mixed, in fine canvas fabrics and iIN
sheer nuns veilings. Bayadere and length
wise stripes are both evidently very much
the fashion, as well as all the varying
styles of checks. corded silk and wool
material called sicilienne, with a heavier
cord of silk crossing it at intervals of one
inch, is very pretty and as soft and glossy
as though 1t We're all silk. Fine crepons APP
pear again in this department of dress ma
terials, and whatever you choose, if it is
transparent or thin and fine in texture it
will surely be correct.
Transparent materials rank first in favor
and evens the caShmeres and serges, which,
by the way, are revived again, are en-
broidered in openwork patterns to show the
lining through. 1t is undoubtedly the soft
cllng1ng, rather aesthetic effects which will
be necessary to Cur success in the fashion
able world when the season opens, and we
might as we'll consider the prospect when
making early purchases. Tile severe tailor
made woman with rigid lines of figure will
have to unbend her starched dignity this
season and cultivate the most womanly side
of her ambition in fashion If she would lead.
Little variations in the modes of dress
trimming are already apparent, and 1t Is
evident that rows of machine stitching, es-
pecially on serge and lightweight cloth
gowns, are to be the thing. Bands of cloth
stitched on are also used, but the satin
bands so universally employed this winter
have had their day. Bands of plaid and
fancy silk of contrasting color edged with
braid are another fancy for trimming wool
gowns. Tucks in all Widths and ways of
distribution are quite as popular as ever,
and gowns are simply tucked all over
around the bodice, sleeves and skirt or up
and down in groups from the neck to the
hem. One style of tucked skirt has fine
tucks all around the hips down to the knee,
pointing a little in front. apron shape, and
leaving the lower part to fall like t1ounce.
Sleeves, yokes and vests are covered with
tucks, as they are with cording, which is
quite as fashionable. Tucked panels are a
feature of some Of the taiior-made skirts,
milliners' folds are revived again, and
skirt of black taffeta is covered over the
They point down in the front and are set
on several inches apart
Other more fanciful ways OF trimming
dressy gowns are with bands Of ribbon
studded with sequins, put on IN Nandyke
groups, frils of incli-wide satin ribbon,
with one row of colored velvet BABY ribbon
on the edge and ruffles of white Nalen-
cennes lace. with two rows OF narrow
black satin ribbon sewn on a little way
above the edge. Two ruff1es of black satin
ribbon directly at the bottom trim the skirt
of thin black crepon gown