The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-03-13
FOR FEMININE READERS
SUMMER GOWNS TO DE FLouNcED
AND RUFTLED IN oLD-TISIE STYLE.
A Fine Salad "A Thing of Delicate Sea-
sOning-yiolets Easy TO Cultivate
-HOar,sing old Clothes.

In this ftful If terval of fashion. when we
are anxiously aw aiting the startling reveal
lions which settle AL doubts
10 the leading theme Of dress for the entire
season. we are tempted en- every side. says
q writer in the New York Sun, by dis
play Of thin cotton gowns which We shall
need last on the list Of garments for a
sumner outfit. These are chiefly made up
In our own dressmaking establishments
from the styles which have been popular
during the latter part of the winter and
from advance reports Of modes to come,
but they are reliable opponents Of the sea-
sons fashions in this sort of dress and
help out the scheme of getting ready for
summer before it is really here. The Pac-
uuin skirt, with the circular fiounce from
the knee and the apron effect with hounce
below seems to lead in the organdie
gowns and narrow ruffies, ruches and in
sertions of lace are the prevailing modes of
trimming Narrow satin ribbon. both gath
cred and plain, is also very much in evil
dence. one white organdie is covered from
neck to hem with groups of narrow white
ribbon gathered slightly on one edge. A
fve-inch ruffie of muslin, edged with two
rows Of ribbon, finishes the bottom. The
skirt with the circular founce is trimmed
ruffies at the bottom and two or three at
the head of the fiounce, or with narrow
ruches of the organdie put on in the same
way, except that they are separated fully
two inches. Satin and velvet baby ribbon
edge some of the ruches: others are plainly
hemmed. insertions of lace set in around
the deep flounce are very pretty, and
ruches and insertions are used on the same
gown. The guimpe waist, so much worn
during the past winter, has blossomed out
new in these thin summer gowns, and some
of the prettiest guimpes are made of fine
sheer white batiste or organdie tucked or
corded in groups with narrow VaIenciennes
insertion between them. The sleeves in
some instances match the neck, but they
are quite as good style If they are of the
0rgandie, like the rest of the gown.
Sleeves are small, of course, as they are in
every gown, but they are tucked, corded,
shirred and striped with insertion in as
many rows as the length will admit. There
are ruffed skirts among the new muslins,
and these are cut in the usual fashion,
with less fullness because or the ruff
fles.
Evidently we are to have a diversity in
skirts this season, and the circular fiounce
is to figure very largely in the diversity of
styles, One model in blue taffeta silk has
three circular flounces, covering the skirt
from the knee down, each one edged with
narrow cream applique; other models show
two iounces, the lower one wide and round
ing up to cover more than half of the skirt
directly in the back. The upper one points
down over this front, forming apron eff
feet, curving UP to the waist in the back.
where il falls in pretty flutes tapping
little over the lower one. This is especially
pretty for the fouiardS and taffeta silk
gowns, edged with narrow black velvet rib
bon. The foundation skirt for this model,
and others as we'll is cut with seven cores,
ana measures only three and half yards
at the bottom. Flounces and ruffles of va
Iious widths put on to simulate an overskirt
sons novelties. All the indications of COM
ing fashions tend to show that dressy
gowns of every sort will have trimmed
skirts, but many of the tailor gowns are
made with plain skirts. OF course, there
are exceptions, where rows of stitching,
cloth bands or braid are used, but the skirt
mended by the most fashionable tailors
as the only means of giving distinctive,
shops are so filled with tucked, corded and
lavishly braided models. Among the trim
mings used for skirts, besides ruffles,
rucheS and tuckS, there are miliinerS folds.
velvet ribbons, applique bands and gumpes
of all kinds, and the quantity employed is
only limited by the wearers good taste, II
the gowns in sight are good examples of
fashion. Three deep folds. outlining tab
lier front and extending around the back,
are enc form of skirt trimming, and still
another, which is quite new, is the shirring
over cords, which is set into the skirt in
waved lines or made straight with tiny
rUche at either edge Two, three or more
cords large a small pipestem and
slightly separated may form the center of
this trimming, which is especially pretty
made of silk on silk gown.
Skirts with all their diversity and various
modes of decoration cannot claim the palm,
for the blouse waist certainly takes the lead
as means of producing variety of every
sort.