The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-06-05

Green ana yellow and Red Curncoa ana IT'S
Quaint Inhabitants.

The appearance Of tho island Of Curacao 10
disappointing 10 the tourist who expects TO find
there tho tropical beauty for which many of the
West Indian islands nro famous. He secs In
stead, as his southward-bound steamer skirts
along its shores, n succession Uf fat-topped hills,
brilliantly green, with n low growth OF vegota-
ton, above which rises here and there n solitary
dwarflsh. twisted tree growing on tho sloplng
hillsides and looking like a gnarled apple tree.
Tho monotony Of tho scenery Is occasionally
broken by q glimpse Of red-tlled houses or n
white church steeplo rising above a mass of
foliage In n distant valley. Now and then, in a
niche Of the rocky coast line, a little Sleepy Hol-
low village pNrNdes its Rnyly painted fishing
boats on Its strip OF sandy beach.
The town of willemstad, or Curacao, is built
on both sides Of a narrow channel connecting
the sea with the lagoon which forms n harbor.
The entrance to this passage is defended bya
low-wallod white fort on other hand; its banks
are bulkheadcd, and form quays lined with old
gnblc-ended limestone Dutch warehouses. Here
shipping is moored and tho business OF the port
conducted. This part of the town Is an exact
reproduction Of a small Dutch seaport. Its
houses and warehouses are colorcd, like a
child's toy city, green and yellow predominant
ing. and green and yellow are many OF the
punts that skim over the clear bluish-green
water which reflects a sky Of the Same hue.
The tall. lltho figures of the negro boatmen, in
sombreros and wide scarlet sashes. stand out in
strong relief against tho glowing background.
Flocks OF white pigeons flutter and COO over
the weather-stained tile roofs OF iridcscent
hucs. Plump Dutch maidens in white dresses.
human counterparts Of the pigeons, gather in
the evening upon their high stoops to enjoy the
cool breeze blowing at nightfall over tho low
hills Of the island. Often the buxom mother of
the family makes one of the party, and a little
latar Tho faNhn, -~nol -, . roa aud olp.,, az. ia
brings his chair to the door to join the group
which sits chatteringi In the gathering shadows,
n picture Of domestic pence and contcntment.
the brief, crimson aftersiow, waiting for the
boatmen to answer their signals to be rowed
in form and feature and are often rs black as
ebony; but the younger ones have tall, willowy
| tho bne Of bronze, Tbey wear n dress Of iiv6t
blue. OF rose pink preferably, with a rcboso of
contrasting, colors thrown across their shoulders.
Large gold hoops hang In their ears. and two or
three necklaces and silver and bead bracelets
are part Of their costumes. A cigarette stuck
able nonchalance. They talk and laugh con.
tinualiy. showing even, white teeth.
narrow and winding, but owing to the Dutch
populat ion thoy are more. clcanly than in other
the inhabitSnts are of black or mixed blood, yet
the indication seems to be that they are %continu.
s stIy s froW' Which Th Winds t a ap h the 6 Tns Ssf Sad dFO on
the town stand. here and there, the old square
Dutch houses OF the weather. Inhabitants,
surrounded by towering trees, and shrubs
and inclosed by limestone walls: Grotesque
carved heads appear above the heavy wide-
panelled doors of some of these houses,
During the day they are closed against
sunlight and dust, giving the street an air OF
sonbre and rigid exclusiveness. In tho moon
light they wake to q vague sort of life. The
quaint. ornamental heads leer in the riffs
OF light which fall between blossoming OLE
anders. Through doors and windows. left open
to the cool night air, wide. lofty rooms with
pieces of heavy antique furniture and orna-
mcnts OF bygone days are seen. Occasionally
the faint tinkle of n piano is heard, but the quiet
is almost oppressive.
In the negro part OF the town there is always
life and noise. Tho sharp sgueaking OF a FIDDLE
comes from u little dance hall where a ball is
in progress, and a crowd is gathered around the
open doorway and in front of the small square
opening which serves as n window.
Spanish or Il dialect OF that language is gen.
orally spoken in Curacao. but many of the ma
tives have picked up enough English from the
American sGamen who visit the port to make
themselves understood. Gayly colorod baskets
which the negroes weave for sale seem to be the
most characteristic souvenir of the island.
These are made in different sizes, some of them
Rs large az barrels. and arc sometimes used In
travelling rs a substitute for trunks. IL you are
once suspected of a weakness for mementos
you will be beset with vendors OF all sorts, and
boxes, baskets, corals, shells and cages OF
screaming paroquets will BIO thrust under your
nose at every step,