Evening star., 1898-08-27
Summer Novelties Apparent in Ku.
tumn Wear.
OUTDOOR AND INDOOR COSTUMES
In Hat Trimmings There Are Two
New Shades in Lavender.
OF H E r IMELY HIN rs
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star
VIENNA, August 20, 1898.
The charming novelties which were eX-
hibited during the summer by fashion s fol-
lowers at various important events and at
the haunts of the fashionable world have
also indorsed the styles for the fall, 50 that
no decided innovation, on the indoor toilet
at least, marks the advent of cooler
weather.
Two materials in one gown is a design
not altogether new, but adopted for fall
toilets for all uses. 1t is 4 style most well
come to the woman with an economical
turn of mind, who realizes the advantage
of making up two old gowns into one OF
newest design.
Silk and velvet have been SO much worn
with wool that they are no longer regarded
as prominent contrast, but many new fall
gowns consist of light and dark cloths or
plaid or striped and plain goods.
prominent among great variety is 4
street gown composed of dark and light
gray striped poplin and gray cloth. The
striped material forms the blouse, sleeves
and underskirt while an overskiTt of gray
cloth entirely covers the back and sides
and opens in front over the striped goods,
giving It the effect of a tabier. A ful
round cape of gray cloth falls over the
shoulders, but exposes the striped blouse
the fullness of which is gathered in the
waist line by belt of chased silver set
with turquoises. The high collar finishes
with two points of cloth and full ;abot OF
yellow lace in front. The cloth overskirt as
well as the cape are edged with an elabor-
ate design done in silver soutache
The Amazone hat, which matches the
gown, Is of gray felt and is trimmed with
folds of light gray silk muslin and gray
Quills in two shades.
For Evening and House,
OF house and evening toilets one can
truthfully say that lies extremes Sc
touchent,' as they are made up either of
rlchest and heaviest silks, satins, moires
or Velvets, or of the daintiest cobweb
stuffs, and combinations are in this line
also. Barege has survived the summer as
our model of a graceful demi-tolet or din
ner gown shows. Barege of a light laven-
Ger Snade, with an all-over design of white
scrolls and rings, is made up over foun-
dation of lavender taffeta. The skirt shows
the favorite tablier form, which is affected
by graceful trimming, consisting of a
very full flounce of lavender mousseline de
sole edged with tiny ruching of the same
material This fiounce is narrower at the
waist and becomes gradually wider, reach
ing the greatest width as 1t surrounds the
skirt at the short train at the back. The
hounce Is surmounted by two insertions of
cream-colored Valenciennes lace, with a
row of ruching Of lavender mousseline de
sole between. Two rows of similar ruching
also edge the tablier effect in front.
The lavender barege Of the blouse is
stretched tight over the back Of the law
ender taffeta lining, while, the front is al
lowed to hang in the customary pouch. The
square yoke of cream coIored guipure is
unlined and edged with two rows of mar
row mousseline ruches. The unique trim
ming over the blouse is done in undulating
lines OF cream colored Valenciennes inser-
tions and lavender moussefine ruches. The
lavender taffeta lining oftthe sleeve covers
the arm closely, and is yelled by the barege,
Whlch Is tucked at the lower arm, while
the upper arm is adorned with Valencien.
mes insertions and Lavender mousseline
ruches to match the trimming on the skirt
ana bodice. Very small square epaulettes
OF insertion and ruches cap the sleeve.
"Cyrano" and "Lysiane."
Lavender shades deepening into purple
stand first in the list of colors which will
be patronized by modistes next season.
Cyrano' and Lysiane," the latter a
rich plum color and named after Mme
Bernhardts latest success, will be ex-
tremely fashionable for woolens. silks and
velvets.
Green also will be to the fore. particular
~ when mixed with brown and black and
copper red-shades which SAVIOR distinctly
of autumn.
the elaboration of lace trimmings appar-
ehtiy KNOWS no limit, while the greatest
variety Is insured by the many ways in
Nhich edgings, Insertions and deep fiounces
OF more or less valuable laceS are mount
ea. FOR summer evening wear, the whole
urn is eneased in q tisht-fitting sleeve of
rniined lace matching the round or square
YOKE. also unlined, which marks many of
ine newest odd silk waists. The high co..
,ar Wucn stands as a rival to the small
-snaped decollete which is gradually gain
ing IN favor. may be of folded ribbon of
the color Of the bodice. or may be of lace,