The record-union., 1898-01-23

Buckles have transferred themselves
for the moment from the front 10 the
back Of the waistband. Here they are
mostly of cut steel and Of the eiongat-
ed square shape, if the Hibernicism
may be permitted. Between our gold
and jeweled belts, our heart shaped
lockets, our neck or muff or lorgnette
chains. as the case may be. also strung
with pearls and precious things, it cam
not be said that the days OF jewelry
are over; while, apropos also OF pearls
a gem setter of note confided recently
that pear-shaped gems of that llk,
which for so many years We're hope
less drug in the market, are now once
more in much demand, owing to the re-
Gently revived custom among smart
women of wearing earrings. 1t is said
that the Duchess of York is responsible
for this emphatically becoming fashion.
which has been practically out since
the '50s.
The princess gown, much improved
by it's handsome bodice decorations and
picturesque sleeve and shoulder effects
is certainly gaining favor The skirt
portions also show new forms, being
long peplum ends, and trimmed half
way up the length Of the skirt, with
narrow bQaids, frills or ruches; or the
lower edge of the skirt is cut in tabs
or deep Vandykes. that are velvet
bound or otherwise finished. These
gowns are capable Of infinite variety,
and some of the most novel and charm
ing evening styles are cut half-low in
.I,.1 nly nd n &
on the front and side breadths. Each
opening is then trimmed with lace
pleatings or gathered velvet-edged
chiffon g1.ills The bodice is lavishiy
decorated on the front and over the
also in many of the models for new
French bridal toilets.
Notwithstanding the general idea that
the bcaero jacket and all its kin had
passed from favor with such artists as
Paquin. Pasquier, Mayer, Pelletier. vi
dal, etc, we still see any number OF
the new French costumes with these
and many other little short-jacket
fronts. put on above softly folded sur
plice vests, or full blouse fronts OF net,
or other diaphanous material draped
Fren4ch polonaises and princesse
dresses that fasten at the back. These
little jackets, usually rounded in shape,
curve over the chest, and come but a
very few inches under the arms, leav-
ing an unbroken view OF the waist
ltne and hips. about which the polonaise
it fitted with great perfection. The en-
tire front effect, TO make complete
mo
manipulation as the dressmaker has 10
perform, and it's achievement IS quite
beyond the powers of an amateur
A bewidering variety of ornaments
for the hair are presented this season,
and each importing or fancy dry goods
house appears to exhibit line of spe-
cialties exclusively its own. Novel
shapes in combs, tiaras, pins, unique
looking brooches, etc, studded with
precious stones, are charming for
dress occasions. Very fine cut-steel is
used for the same purpose, and the
beautiful hair ornaments in tortoise
shell. amber, or gold, set with bril-
liants, or enriched with solid silver
carvings and filigree work, battle de-
scription. The Greek, Psyche, Merode.
~
each calls for ornaments of a different
style and character, just as the Golf
d'Espagne requires the high Spanish
comb, and the more trying Greek
style, with tresses laid in straight sew
Gritty. demand the fllet of pearls or
slender bands of gold. The ornaments
for the stately Pompadour coiffure are
the most brilliant and elaborate. Pret-
ty little empire bowknots Of gold or
silver, denseIy studded with Irish dia-
monds, are plentifully used with the
rolled and waved Marie Antoinette
coiffure, the hair being arranged at
the back. near the top of the head, in
one large showy bowknot. All of these
fancy decorations are satisfactory du-
plicates of hair and neck ornaments
made of genuine precious stones. suit
able only for very elegant occasions
and TO be worn only by persons of
great wealth. many of the tiny
aigrettes, coronets. necklaces. gem-set
1orgnette-chains and slender bangle
bracelets being costly and elaborate
enough for the wear of women of roy
atty.
Hats and bonnets are marvellous to
behold, so varied are their forms and
colors. but then 1t must be remembered
that there are faces of all ages to suit.
and also they must be in keeping with
the cos tune and occasion. For morn
ing wear toaues and the chapeau mar
quis are used: for evening and theaters
a very small dressy capote. with tulle.
feathers and flowers. Dress hats are
not very large. the brims are fiat and
sometimes raised with tufts or half
wreaths OF flowers, or bouillonnes of
velvet For driving or visiting dove
gray felt is much in vogue and looks
wen trimmed with sable and a little
head of sable on one side toward the
back.
Cloth in ivory or cream white. sera-
mum red. pale old rose. blue and fawn
color, is used for yokes in cloth gowns
and when a lighter material is prefer
red tucked shot taffeta is considered
very smart. Some of the cloth yoSes
are left plain, others are oyerlaid With