Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1898-03-16

! French cuisine that there Il not one I'M
| portant cook in this big kitchen who has
| not learned his trade In Paris. The chef,
| Adrien Teuue for instance, received
! his first training in Paris. From there
| he went to Ba ! Baden, to Vienna. Ber-
! lin, Copenhagen, stockholm. and London.
| learning everywhere everything that ne
could about every branch OF cookery
| From London he returned 10 Paris for
| an extra course and then came 20 this
country. He was chef for the late Jay
Gould, for the Fifth Avenue Hotel, and
for the Cafe Savarin for a time. and then
he returned 10 Paris. coming back 10
take possession Of the Waldorf kitchen.
The chiefs Of each department under
him have been educated in a similar way,
and all are French cooks.
THE principal characteristics OF the
cookery of to-day are its delicate season
ing and fine sauces. II is fashionable now
TO serve everything In very small por-
tions, but in individual fancy forms 30
that each dish not only pleases the taste
but also the eye. II Is very seldom
that one sees a roast or a joint at
fashionable dinner now.
French cookery has had a chance "a
develop remarkably in this country. mas
much as a large amount Of material II
used here that Is not used az all in
France. We seldom find corn used there,
okra is unknown, and tomatoes have only
recently been grown 10 any extent Then
the variety of wild ducks l. much larger
here. and wild turkeys and geese and TOO
many other things TO mention are prac-
tically unknown here
Fewer courses are served at dinner
than formerly. There seems ~ be a
rfpf 10. I'd vi L
dinner TO from an hour to an hour and
a half. whereas people used 10 sit 40
table for from two to FIVE hours. This
Is considered not only very tiresome IN
this rush age. but also very bad form
Prompt service, without unseemy
haste. Is one OF the keynotes 10 su''
cessfu dinner. Now, all told what
do you think of the biggest kitchen In
the wOrld2"
The reporter took I'm the hundreds ~
shining cooking utensils hanging from
the ceiling within easy reach Of the cooks.
She swept her eyes over the spOtless TILED
floor and tables and dressers and then
she turned her attention 20 the ssyory
dishes on the ranges.
'Tn tell you what 1 think she an
swered. slowly. i've read Of lot Oh
kitchens in New England being as neat
as wax and run like clock work. and I've
heard OF lot OF kitchen floors clean
enough TO eat off in cooking schools.
but / think this is the only one In this
country or any other. where / would
literally be willing TO take a meal from
on the floor. But may / ask one more
question? How do you manage about
your soups? Suppose you have twenty
soups on the bill of fare for dinner
Would they all be in the big pots ready
TO server
Heavens. nor' he answered ''Th'S
the way We managed things twenty years
ago and that's the way hotel soup TEL
into such disrepute. and became the butt
OF professional jokers. which Is the worst
fate that can come TO anything or any
body. We make 400 gallons OF first-class
soup stock in this kitchen every day.
All French soups are made OF stock. you
know, and II you have good stock on
hand. the finest kind OF soup can be made
In a jiffy, and is much better for bSias
quickly made"