davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

ALBION-I would suggest that you use
sweet almond Oil with the mutton tallow,
combining it in the proportion of one
third of the oil to two-thirds mutton tall
low. Melt them together, stirring with a
silver spoon, until the two ingredients are
thoroughly Incorporated If you wish to
while it Is still hot, few drops of altar
course, you can increase the quantity of
almond oil, so as to make the tallow of
whatever consistency you desire. $50
+ PERALTA- - Please. read directions
given to Jupiter for falling hair and,
dandruff. Clip the split ends whenever
you shampoo the hair. A curling fluid is
for the purpose Of keeping the hair in
curl, and the hair should be dampened
with it before being put up on ribs or
papers. Here is a good one: Gum traga-
canth 11s drains; proof spirit, 3 ounces;
altar of rose, drops; distilled water.
ounces The condition of your scalp and
nails indicates poor health. For the white
spots on the nails make a paste of re-
fined pitch and myrrh, mixed together
This should be put on at night, and In
the morning rubbed off with olive OIL
ELIZABETH Ell should Judge that
defective circulation and absence of the
nourishment so necessary to the roots.
would advise ten minutes of massage
every night Brush out the dust first,
then dip the fingers in warm olive oil
and rub on to the scalp. For answer to
talk.
yALERIE-See answers to Troubled
One and Elizabeth e. In the Sunday Call
of September II. A good cold cream made
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
CARE OF
KID GLOVES.

@EHERE are three things saith the
proyerb, which can only be man
aged by coaxing-a kid glove, a fire
and a man.
Certainly all three require gentle meth
DDS Rough handling is especially disas-
trous to kid gloves; jerking them on is
certain to tear them. Always put on a
pair of new kid gloves for the first time
long enough before they are to be worn
to allow of due elaboration in the task.
Much depends upon the way in which this
is done When you purchase pair of
fine gloves insist that they shall be fitted
in the store; then If there are any flaws
they will be detected before the gloves
are paid for and taken away.
Cheap gloves are always a risk, and
should never be bought except at relia-
Some of the best shops keep a good line
of gloves at low prices, which are well
worth buying for common wear. They
are strong and well made, though not
fine, and serve excellently well for shop
ping and morning walks or for bad
weather.
In putting on a glove, always be careful
to get each finger straight. Coax each
one on by rubbing gently between finger
and thumb and do not draw on the
thumb until the fingers are down to the
very ends.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

hair at night, just before going, to bed.
The sage, tea IS. a splendid invigorator,
growing in again. 1t will keep a long time,
as the alcohol preserves 1T. The only
thing can suggest to remedy the as
tended nostrils is to gently pinch them
together many times a day. See beauty
talk for information about blackheads.
Whereas in some cases these blemtshes
respond quickly to treatment, in others
they are most obstinate and require much
patience.
nut oil, dashing it afterward with tepid
water in which a small piece of alum has
been dissolved. Do this each night.
HELEN C.-Please read foregoing reply
to Elizabeth E. Take care not to get the
oil on the hair itself, as it will make 1t
VANITY-It is much easier to Danish
freckles than it is to prevent them from
returning. The permanent removal Of
matologists. 1 certainly would not advise
you to take iron, as it is the iron in the
blood, little particles of which find their
way through the drainage tract of the
the surface of the scarf skin, that, acted
upon by the light, darkens into the dis
remedy know of for freckles is the SIM
pie combination of fifteen grains of borax
to two tablespoonfrls of fresh lemon
juice. Dip a bit of absorbent cotton into
the mixture and dab lightly over. the face
every night also after coming in from the
sunshine. Never use soap before going out
getting rid of the freckles the only way
know of to prevent them from returning
is to smear the face with cold cream be-
fore going out, powder literally with a
pure powder and wear a good thick veil.
ADRIAN-Formula for skin food is
given in reply to Ida NJ. Massaging with
this will help remove the crows feet, also
prevent wrinkles from forming. When
the whites of the eyes are not clear as
they should be it is usually a symptom of
biliousness. Some good Alternative will
remedy that. A skillful masseuse will
certainly not cause the flesh to become
loose and fiabby. On the contrary, the
flesh should become more firm.
LILLIAN-It is absolutely impossible to
keep some skins smooth and in a healthy
condition without using a good cream or
skin food. Follow the direction given in
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
llATEST
NOVELTIES.

60 NEW idea in handkerchiefs is to
IN sell them in series of seven, one
~ for each day in the week; the
y name of each is embroidered in
white on differently colored cambria for
each day.
Bright colored silks are used to en-
broider small flowers, such as violets and
daisies, on white cambria handkerchiefs.
The new, trimmings show conclusively
that plain goods will be the vogue for
some time to come The prominent feat
ure of these is that they will afford the
necessary color to the sober hues of the
applied.
Passementeries have airy open designs.
chenille effects and brilliant colorings in
spangles, beads and tinsel. In garniture
the fronts in black net are much in evil
dence with floral, spray and bow knot
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

from the best materials will not make
hair grow upon the face. 1t is the cheap
creams bought in the shops that have
that heartrending effect.
MRS. H. SAUNDERS-In reply to Ida
M. you will find the formula you ask for
BLOSSOM RIO whiten and heal the
cracked hands, melt equal parts. of refined
white wax, oil of sweet almonds and CO.
Goa butter Rub this thoroughly into the
a pair of old loose gloves from which the
ends of the fingers have been cut. l do
net know exactly what you mean by
striving for a white complexion. II you
will make your question more explicit
shall be delishH5ed to T, answer It tor,a tor
smelling salts Carbonate of ammonia
Crushed, pound; oil of lavender, fluid
ounce; oil Of berrgamot fluid ounce OF :.s oil
l fluid dram. Rub them thoroughly to-
gether, sublime at a very. gentle heat into
wel-eooled receiver and at once nee put the the
quality Of ttfi the salts, Win surfer: OF course
choose, only Keeping the proportions.
A. and IA lotion of half glycerine and
half lemon juice will whiten the dark
neck, and cocoanut oil literally rubbed
into the skin each night will gradually
fill out the hollows about the collar bones.
would not advise cocoanut oil for the
cream or skin food. Used in its full
strength 1t is very likely to make fine
hairs grow on the face.
VIRGINIA. have many times in these
columns refused to give formulas for hair
dyes. Most of them contain sugar of lead,
which is most poisonous, although-it does
not act injuriously upon all scalps, but
there are cases on record where lead pail
sy, lead collie and fatal poisoning have re-
suited from hair dyes containing lead No
dye is permanent. With each washing of
the head a portion of 1T washes off until
none remains. This lotion, while not
tresses sulphate of iron Crushed, /
dram; rectified spirits, l fluid ounce; oil
of rosemary, 10 drops; pure distilled wa
ter, y pint. Mix thoroughly. In using
anything of this sort always experiment
on a small strand of the hair.
NJ. A. RI certainly cannot recommend
kerosene as a wash for the hair. OF
course it is the oil in it that causes the
comb to slip SO easily through the hair.
AS the hair is harsh and falling in such
quantities, would advise massaging the
scalp gently each night with pure olive oil
which has been slightly warmed. Wash
every two or three weeks with the fol-
lowing liquid soap: Cut in very small
CASTLE soap. Place in a porcelain vessel
with two quarts of boiling water. Let it
simmer until every particle of the soap is
thoroughly dissolved When cold it should
cream, and if thicker add more warm
water. Stir in one-fourth pint of alcohol
and then let stand several days in
warm room. All the alkali and impurities
will be as clear as crystal, Pour off very
carefully, leaving the residue for kitchen
purposes. Add one-fourth ounce of es-
sence of verbena. Use this as a shampoo,
several waters. il it is still difficult to get
the comb through it, rub a very little
brilliantine or olive oil on 1t before comb
ing. If this does not remedy the difficulty
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

thinks of leaving her room until she has.
put on her gloves any more than she
would come out buttoning her shoes.
four times as long as do an Americans
Buttoning gloves should never be done
in a hurry. The wrist should be gently
tons insinuated gently into the holes.
Use a glove buttoner always; it ruins
both the buttonholes and the finger ends
toner Is better than the ordinary hooks.
When you buy new pair of gloves, all
ways sew the buttons on before wearing,
tons drop off when you are in full toilet
will be avoided. If your gloves lace, be
careful to lace them evenly, hook oppo-
more SO with gloves than with shoes or
a bodice, and is just as disastrous to the
fit of one as of the other.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

In taking off, turn the wrist over the
fingers and take hold of the ends of the
glove out badly to pull It off by catching
at the finger ends. Pull the glove into
shape and lay away carefully. Keep silk
to match each shade, and mend as soon
as a break appears. The old proverb, "a
stitch in time save nine" is especially ap-
propriate to gloves. Glove mending is
delicate. work, which requires both skill
and dexterity, and when we'll done pays
admirably for the pains taken.
A flask of glove powder should form
one of the adjuncts to every toilet table,
and q pretty glove stretcher is another.
French women say that American moth
ers fail sadly in the respect that they do
not instruct their daughter in the art OF
putting on their gloves.
American girls" they say, come
downstairs pulling their gloves on as
they go. Now, French woman never
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

tern horizontal and edged with narrow
butter-colored lace. The corsage, which
is very simple, is composed of pleats set
horizontally, and is made with shawl lap
els, coming to a point at the waist, faced
with white satin and trimmed with yell
low lace, and the front between them is
Of English application lace. The neck
trimming is of the same lace, with soft
bow beneath the chin. The upright col
lar of the corsage is also lined with white
satin mixed with yellow insertion. The
sleeves, which are quite tight, are orna-
mented in the upper part with five mar
row f1ounces edged with narrow lace, and
two similar flounces around the wrists,
widening over the hand in funnel shape:
white faille ribbon. fastening in a bow on
the left side. The hat designed to COM
plete the costume is of white straw, three
cornered, with the brim turned up all
around, and round crown encircled by
band of black velvet In front is a
tuft of four black ostrich feathers, set in
a strass buckle.
A simple, airy promenade gown was
made OF corn-colored yelling over the
same shade of taffeta
The skirt was trimmed with ruches of
mond pattern. The pattern continued over
the entire front of the skirt and formed
border at the back and sides.
The corsage Of the yelling opened over
edges of the corsage bordering on the
vest were cut IN diamond scalIops and
were edged with the deeper colored ruch-
ing that formed diamond pattern over
the entire front of the corSage.
A sash of the purple yelling was plated
into a narrow ceinture and knotted at
the back where the ends reached to the
bottom of the skirt. The sleeves We're
plain and close fitting, with frill of the
yelling at the wrists. The collar was q
high, straight affair, covered plain with
the yelling.
A big picture hat of deep purple straw
was worn with this gown. 1t had a
wreath of primrose under the brfm rest
ing on the hair. The crown was covered
with several shades of purple yelling and
deep purple tips
All of these promenade gowns have a
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

decided little train that gives a graceful
line to the figure. though they are any
thing else but comfortable for prone
made Good form prevents a woman from
being too fussy about her train. and yet
she must protect it from the damp grass
and dusty walks to preserve the freshness
of her gown. When she considers 1t per-
MISSILE at all, the usual French woman
holds her train up directly in the back,
gathering 1t with a firm grasp q little
below the waistband.
A promenade gown of foulard had a
cream background, with Japanese pat
tern in Dresden blue covering it closely.
The skirt fell In clinging full gore that
were especially numerous at the back. It
was trimmed around with four broad
bands of white MORE ribbon bordered on
the lower edges. They all formed points
at the front of the skirt, and above the
highest band motifs in Bruges lace
were appliqued over the skirt.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

patterns, showing jewels, pearl cabochons,
steel, aluminium and gilt thread. beads,
mousseline and gold net, appliqued on
the black, and richly shaded chenille for
flowers and leaves
Gilt and silver spiral wire and alumni
UNI spangles are literally used. Flowers
in silk embroidery are raised by padding
and covered with gold netting. Violet,
light green and turquoise colors are prom
inent. Revers will evidently be unquali-
fed favorites, for trimmings designed to
cover them are many and beautiful.
In pearl passementere a cream color
prevails. Festoons of pearls are shown
Epaulets to match many of the fronts
are made; these are worked with colored
spangles and chenille imbrications. In
charming Astrakan effects, though all are
light in effect.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

~ OMEDONES, or "blackheads," as
II they are commonly called, are the
IL dread of girlhood and the bane of
VI many a woman'S existence. More
than two-thirds of the letters that
reach me send up pitiful wall for some
remedy for this mildew Of the face. To
my mind there is no facial blemish quite
so distressing, for they seem to SAVIOR so
of uncleanliness.
There are several ways of getting rid
of them, but even after the little black
specks have disappeared there arises the
question as to the treatment necessary to
be forever rid of them. Perhaps if every
one understood thoroughly their cause,
the remedy would be the clearer.
Few of us are apt to realize it, but the
skin is constantly undergoing the process
of reproduction and decay. The little
ducts or pores of the skin are constantly
secreting and discharging respiratory
and oily matter upon the surface of the
face. the skin Of which also throws off it's
dead scurf in tiny particles. While these
various oils and sebaceous matter are ac-
cumulating upon the skin, they attract,
from their oleaginous character, floating
dust and dirt. If not kept perfectly clean
the glands or pores of the skin become
clogged by these accommodations and the
skin is unable to perform it's functions
With It's numerous oil glands the face is
particularly susceptible to the fine dust
that floats about in the air.. The accumu-
lations in the pores gradually harden and
thus distend the tiny openings.
In all cases of skin disease where the
pores are clogged the matter must be set
free Steaming the face several times a
week is very excellent for this purpose.
Steam until every unimpeded pore is in
an active condition, and the contents of
the inactive ones are softened. Then
gently press out each little black speck
with the fingernails, well protected with
a fine handkerchief If the little specks
are not ready to come. then leave them
until another time, as squeezing will but
irritate them and Increase their number.
The easiest way to steam the face is to
fill deep china bowl with boiling water,
envelop the head In sheet folded four
times. and then hold the face over the
rising steam, tucking the sheet closely
around. SO that none of the vapor will
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

escape. The face must be washed thor
oughly and smeared with cold cream be-
should also be followed by careful
washing and massage with cold cream.
AN excellent fsd crea for this
Pure white wax, 1s ounce.
Spermaceti, IA ounces.
Sweet almond oil, IA ounces.
Rose water, y ounce.
Every night that the face is not steamed
give it a good scrubbing with camel's
hair face, scrubbing brush. CASTLE soap
with the cold cream. If the steaming Is
not resorted to, toilet soft soap is no bad
application for blackheads It is easily
tile soap In three cupfuls of hot water
and while warm adding one tablespoonful
of pure, liquid ammonia and half a tea
pores, rinse in clear tepid water. with a
teaspoonful of lemon Juice in it, and
then rub the cold cream can well into the he
make the face look worse for a time, but
If persisted in the most obstinate cases
will gradually. yield
round of health must be attended to, not
for a season but. as the habit, of life.
The entire body must be kept clean,
the rest of the body neglected it will
draw humors to the part that is stimu-
lated the most. So, take daily tepid
sponge BATH th etre BODY brsky wtb
flesh brush. Take plenty of outdoor ex-
ercise, eat lots of fruit, avoid all greasy
rich foods, and sleep in room that Is
we'll ventilated.
After the pores have been thoroughly
emptied Of the matter that clogged them,
and the irritation has entirely passed, If
the pores are left coarse and gaping
this sulphur wash will clear the skin and
at the same time slowly draw the pores
closer together.
SULPHUR WASH.
Precipitated sulphur, l dram.
Ether, drains.
Alcohol, 31a ounces.
This must be used. as wash, and
shaken before every application. Re-
member this-there Is nothing SO abso-
lutely necessary in the removal of black
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
MANILA STRAW HAT DRAPED WITH
TUllE, WHITE WINGS.
By ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

write to me again, and I will suggest
something else.
IDA M-You will find your question
fully answered in to-day's beauty talk.
For the wrinkles under the eyes massage
every night with the following skin food:
Spermaceti, ~ ounce; white wax, "
ounce; sweet almond oil, ounce; simple
tincture of benzoin, 10. drops; orange
flower water, ounce. This will not cause
hairs to grow upon the face.
ELECTRA-Sage tea is excellent for
hair that is falling. Olive oil is also good.
1t is hard to say which is the better, not
hair. II it is very oily, then I should pre-
fer the sage tea. Take a handful of the
leaves and boil them into a tea. Make
OF alcohol to the pint. Use 1t as you would
any tonic. applying to the roots Of the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
Paris
FaSBIONS.
Special to The Sunday Call.

80 HERE is little to be seen now at
the Paris dressmakers'. Their au-
tumn models are not yet out. and
u they only have on hand dresses
made to order from models already
known.
Among the designs most frequently re-
peated during the present season are
those of dresses in Irish guipure foulard
and linen, or Of embroidered tulle inlaid
with lace.
Here is description of some of the
dresses of this class seen at Fred's, the
dressmaker in the Rue Royale.
The dress on the top of this page is of
Liberty satin foulard with a white
ground printed with an irregular design,
with spots at intervals in black. The skirt
Is very tight all round the figure, the full
ness beginning very low down. 1t Is long
and has short train. The lower
part. 90 centimeters from the bottom, is
trimmed with four very narrow founces
of the same material. but with the pat
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

The corsage was a blouse opening at
posed of the figured foulard laid in mar
row row plaits bordered with band of the
white MORE ribbon. The close fitting
sleeves and high collar. were composed
entirely of the plated foulard. A jabot
Of Bruges lace began at the collar. and
continuing down the front of the corsage
was caught into the ceinture Of white
MORE ribbon.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

heads as frequent bathing of the entire
body. The daily bath is of the utmost
hygienic Importance in all facial erup-
lions, and as direct beautifier of the
face 1t has no equal. The fact that baths
lead to beauty is arrived at by the clear
est process of deduction. 1t is this: Baths
mean cleanliness, cleanliness means
you are!
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
TAILOR MADE DRESS OF LAVENDER LINEN

the old way. A small rubber comb Is
covered with Jet beads put on with black
silk. The beads are strung in long chains
and the chains are twisted around the
back Of the comb until 1t is covered with
beads. HELEN WARD
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
Treatment for Facial Blemisbes.
BY NINE. HYGEIA.



o mtd in the science cosmetics me the ny
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

BLOWING HOT AND COLD.
Some women can sing a baby to
sleep in two minutes and talk hus-
band awake all night.-Chicago News.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
To SECURE
SHIRT WaISTS.

~ HIRT waists have an uncomfort-
~ able fashion of slipping up in the
back, which is especially disagree
able to the girl who prides herself
upon being well-groomed.
There is one way, and one only, of keep
ing them down effectually. For this make
a band three inches long and just enough
wider than the belt of the shirt waist to
allow room to stitch it on easily and leave
ton holes in it and attach it firmly to the
belt of the shirt waist, exactly in the mid
die of the back, on the outside. Now sew
two fat buttons on the skirt to match the
button holes. When buttoned the waist
and skirt will be kept together easily
without strain or danger of separating.
The buttons should be fat, such as are
used for mems underwear-pearl buttons
for wash skirts and black trousers but
tons for dark wooden skirts.
By this simple continuance all danger of
tearing the skirt by pinning is avoided,
and the work once done is lasting.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18
Special to the Sunday Call.

q EW YORK, Sept. 16.-There is a
story told OF famous London
II beauty, who. coming back to
town in August, found herself In
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-09-18

or "blackheads," as
they are commonly called, are the
dread of girlhood and the bane of
many a woman's existence. More
than two-thirds Of the letters that