Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-04-09
DAINTY AND DELICIOUS.

Creole Method Of Preparing Food In
New Orleans.
From the Philadelphia Press
New Orleans cookery has always Lad q
magical sound. 1t has appealed to native
and outsider ever since French COLOMBIA
ton in this country. The first question I
was asked by the household on returning
from the Mardi Gras was: What did you
have to eat?" The question was hard to
answer. Rather, what didn't have to eat?
When one breakfasts and dimes at restau-
rants where a wager is constantly laid on
the table as to what are the ingredients of
the dish just eaten, it certainly is difficult
problem to solve, this one OF What did
you have to eat?' 1 actually saw that
wager given again and again. It would be
probably near the truth to say that one
eats little of everything in New Orleans.
One eats very little in New Orleans but
one eats often. The French serve often
and sparingly with exceeding daintiness
They believe about the art of eating as the
japanese believe in the art of decoration
one rose in an exquisite vase g worth 100
flowers. So the dish excellently served, de-
1iberately and dainty cooked with its one
liquid, is better far than a groaning board
The day Is begun with cup Of coffee and
roll-an egg. If one wishes it. Then
breakfast at 10 or II o'clock. 1t is city of
restaurants, and he who has only lodgings
lives at the chefs taste, at the epicure's
board. The flavor and taste Of their coffee
is different from that gotten north or west
of Lake Ponchartrain. unless in the hostel
ries with French chefs. 1 watched the
most famed cook in the city make it one
morning, and this was how 1t was done:
1t had been partially roasted at the mar
ket, but she put about two cupfuls in a
pan with lid and roasted it a bit more
Heat brings out the flavor. Into the coffee
mill 1t went, and the fresh grounds were
put into tin dripper. This dripper she
laid over brown stone jar, which was en-
tirely warm, and then poured the boiling
water into the dripper. She placed the
stone jar in front of, not on, the stove
Only little water at a time was poured
over it, and two or three times the who'll
contents Of the jar were poured through
the dripper. for extra strength. The result
was coffee that was rich. brown and fra
grant. The cup was poured only half full
the rest made up with hot milk. 1t was
nectar!
snails were served often and delightfully."-.
A salad of them is served for breakfast
The shrimps are pink. tiny and fresh. they
are laid over crisp. curled lettuce leaves
Over them are shaken oil, vinegar Pepper
and salt. The clever chef never beats I'D
his dressing. He just throws each ingredi-
ent over without any measuring but the
eye. Invariably he -pours it out from the
bottle to the salad, then mixes 1t all up
with the wooden spoon and fork.
Liver is a frequent dish, cut very thick
and served very hot Very little If any hot
bread is seen. The bread Is delicious 1t
is broken. never cut. The crust is thick,
the bread Is porous and one can eat the
most fnexcusable amount Of It, New Or
leans butter is simply delightful but never
superior to the Pennsylvania brand
The connection of dishes Is entirely differ
ent Garlic has touched everything that
can be improved by the flavor, and mush-
rooms or truffles are constantly used. One
let's are rarely served plain. Omelet souffle
is the favored way Of cooking, and sweet
breads, truffles. oysters and brains are
often used. Their omelets are made ex-
ceedfngly thick and quite brown
Roast beef and mutton are not so favored
with them as chicken. turkey, venison and
squirrel. These meats are made into a
composition dish oftener than served as a
plain roast.
And with everything one drinks claret
Not In a wine glass! Dear me! No! But
In large water tumber. half filleo with
Ice and diluted with water. Your good
Frenchman never gets drunk, but he drinks
alwaysi