The record-union., 1898-11-13

The cloths largely used for fashion
able cloaks are Lyons velvets, satin
matelasses, silk seal plush in four diff
ferent grades, each forty-eight inches
wide. and Velours du Nord in six diff
ferent qualities, thirtytwo inches
wide.
Almost without exception, all stylish
evening toilets have trains of various
lengths, appropriate for various tex
tiles, figures and occasions, and in dlf-
ferent shapes for individual wearers.
There are gored models and others cir
cular in shape, or finished with cir
cular ruffles, skirts frilled about the
hem, flounced to the waist, plated,
ruched, draped, tabliered, rounded on
the fronts, finished with inserted fan
plaitings of corded or plain or fancy
silk, or cut in squares or sharp points
at the bottom, with a plated ruftie set
beneath. Trimmings of various kinds
are put on to simulate overskirts both
long and short, and. narrow fur, chen
lille bands, and silk cord resembling
braidwork. also silk and velvet-leaf
points and ribbonwork, are used con-
stantly by leading tailors and modistes.
y
The style still prevails Of using black
with color, as, for example, a princesse
dress of Russian green or plum color,
with trimmings of black fur and pas
sementerie ornaments en- applique;
while In contrast to these are costumes
of fine black French broadcloth lined
throughout with red silk, the open
front of the bodice showing a slightly
dropping vest of satin-barred red and
black matelasse.
White satin vests, embroidered in
petunia or soft pink or green shadings,
are worn with costumes of royal or
silver blue Venetian cloth.
Among the new autumn and winter
fabrics there are a few weaves sub
stantia1 enough in texture, to afford
sufficient body to the skirt without the
aid Of a lining Such skirts have mere
~ a deep outside hem or inner facing,
and are worn over a separate founda-
tion skirt that usually matches the
gown. The independent foundation,
which is not meant to take the place
of a petticoat, is made, for walking
skirts, a trifie shorter than the skirt
itself. The majority of skirts, how
ever, are still lined throughout. The
skirts of utility, costumes of substan-
tial woolens, such as tweed, cloth,
cheviot, etc, are all made close-fitting
about the top, with a gradual outward
curve on the lower half When the
basque bodice is of the same material
as the skirt and is more or less elab-
orately trimmed about the top, it does
not differ from those worn last spring
so as to attract special attention; but
in costumes of cloth, when the basque
is, for example, of dark or black velvet,
they resemble somewhat the "Spen-.
GERS" of other days, from which they
differ merely in the length of skirt.
They are frequently cut in a long, very
deep point, just at the back, and ef
fectively lined with satin or brocade.
The Mary Stuart basque has, in addi-
ton, pointed or heart-shaped yoke
or guimpe of the satin or brocade, with
a satin-lined velvet puff on the shoul-
ders. The Louis XIII. basque bodice
is also short, and has deeply pointed
skirts front and back. Neither of these
styles is an accurate reproduction of
its historical prototype.
The new weaves in blue and green
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stylish for travelling costumes. which,
as a rule, are made with a seven -gored
or five-piece skirt gracefully widening
from the knees down, with a very
slight dip at the back; the open jacket
with fronts curving back toward the.
hips, and finished with a. rounded turn
down collar and short pointed revers.
A dainty French plastron is formed
of double ruff1e of mousseline de sole
accordion -pleated, edged with lace. 1t
begins in a knot of the mousseline at
the throat, and forms two jabots to the
waist line The collar attached is of
shirred mousseline over satin ribbon
with a standing and falling in-and-out.
fri1 of the lace, caught in front with
a lace-pin of small French brilliants.
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Get peau de sole for your daughters
evening dress, and finish the bodice
with little lace-edged elbow-sleeves,
shirred into little crisp frills up the
outside of the arm. Make over the
gray corded silk with satin ruches by
way of trimming. Line with rose-eolor.
Use the rose-colored silk skirt for its
lining. Get mousseline de sole or net,
and have the entire trained green silk
evening gown draped with it. As for
the bodice, merely rip the shoulder
seams, add the net or mousseline ends
of the drapery, and stitch together
again. Rip the back of the collar-band
and add the drapery in like manner,
and seam up as before.
One of the very prettiest and most
becoming of the shorter coats for rath-
er full figures is made with a closely
fitted back which is belted. At each
side, just above the hips. the basque
part curves up to the waist, leaving
the fronts free. The upper part over
the bust turns back in graceful shaped
revers that are notched at the shoulder
seams, leaving a rather broad turn
down collar at the back. A glimpse of
the belt shows just in front where it
holds the soft folds of a plated vest
striped perpendicularly with narrow
braid or velvet ribbon. One of the
jackets imported is made of hussar-
blue double faced cloth. the reverse