The San Francisco call., 1898-07-10

lS 8 which are circumscribed by cer-
 tain fashion limitations, but when it comes to the dress to wear for morning, it must be confessed that the exact modes for an absolutely perfect garment suitable to be worn on the piazza and at the breakfast table have not yet been described.
 Anything will do for morning. is true in several senses. Unless a dress is made of violet, or of very expensive silk or satin, or unless it is distinctively an even- ing dress, it can be worn at breakfast with propriety. Thus, a driving dress or any street gown looks well at the break fast table, although it is not specially made for such wear.
 But the perfect breakfast dress for sum- mer is the dress which is cool-cool and light weight. It is one that suggests an appetite and encourages conversation 1t is a dress which greatly enhances a Wom- ans charms, and makes her pretty at an hour when she should not be too beau- tiful. French women never appear at the breakfast table They have their break fast served in bed.
 Seldom it is that a Frenchwoman is wis fbe before ] o'clock. and then, if she leaves her room, it is to be huddled in pretty soft crepe or thin white goods that give her the look of a fairy, too light and airy for earth.
 Bernhardt and Amelie Rives, the two women who have stood in their respective countries for the esthetic in dress, adopt ed the style of draplng the ngure Tn loose, light material which was very be- coming. Instead of cutting out a morning robe from the regulation pattern and sew ing it in seams. they took the goods and gathered it around the neck and provided arm holes for it. They draped them long and loose and caught them here and there with fancy ornaments. Bernhardt s dresses were generally in Due, while Amelte RiVes chose the more picturesque white.
 But the summer woman who Is going to live in a summer hotel cannot dress in odd fashion unless she be a. regular apos- tie of improved dress She must follow the style to certain extent. although she can adapt 1t to herself with some leeway
 Nothing more ideal for a morning dress suggests itself than the light weight nov city goods which come at about r cents a yard. These goods are not only cheap but are pretty as well. They are made of cotton, although they are not generally what IS known as wash goods. They have some body and are decorated by small patterns and stripes which give them the name of novelty"
 One of the best known manufacturers of novelty goods in this country told me that in reality his 12-cent novelty dress goods contained better material than his expensive ladies cloth. He said that ir making up silk lengths there were always ends Ie1t over that were perfectly worth.
 Suppose" said he, that we turned out 20o0 pieces of cerise satin, which is enough to supply the market demand fol our coStumers. We have Jeff over threads and ravelings and punches nj warp and wool which must be used ir some way. So we take these and dis. tribute them through our cheap cottor novelty goods, and we turn out thou. sands of excellent pieces of cloth in this way. The main body of the goods is cot. tony but the figure may be expensive silk and satin material
 Perhaps the prettiest way to make piaz. ga and breakfast dresses of novelty goods is the plainest Make a round waist and a plain skirt. If a decided boudoir touch is desired in the gown, tie a rib bon around the waist and trim it around the yoke with a ruffie. This ruffie can be made of the same material trimmed with bands of baby ribbon. This gives a very expensive finish and one that is extreme ly pretty.
 Baby ribbon is greatly used for all house dresses. It makes such natty trimming that it takes the place of bands of silk and satin. It is only l cent yard trims thirty-siX inches of goods If 1t is laid on plain in bands it needs only two or three yards to trim an entire yoke Used in great profusiOn upon a waist it gives a very beautiful trimming.
 It takes eleven yards of novelty goods to make a very nice house dress and were the material alone counted, it would be found that S3 would cover the cost of