The news & observer. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1894-current, 1898-03-06


the ground still showing traces Of the
beautiful snow, as it is known III New
York. the shop windows are filled with
the daintiest. ARREST and finest of fabrics
wonderful embroidered muslins, such
as were brought years ago from the mys-
terious countries beyond the seas, print
ed muslins such as Mary Washington
wore. wonderful contrasts in color in the
dainty cotton materials that seem to
have belonged to the days of Marie An
tionette and Petit Trianon. And with it
all they are so cheap! When our muslin
gowns were brought by some travelling
cousin from China. they We're really
worth their weight in gold. When do
nestle manufactures were unknown, Il
cotton frock was almost as expensive as
n wooden one. But nowadays, when
clever American girls draw the designs,
when wonderful American looms weave
the material the beautiful artistic fabric
is within the reach even of the woman
who has to economic.
She is the wise woman who buys her
cotton frocks while it is yet winter. Why
Because she has her choice of designs
and because she can get her material
while it is yet fresh and before 1t shows
the effect of passing through many
hands Then, getting the material so ear
". the wise woman can devote plenty of
time TO choosing her decorations and TO
selecting the modes in which her gowns
shall be. Perhaps she has chosen Il
dainty white muslin with little dots thick
ly embroidered upon it. She goes to no
pattern-house for her design. A month
ago there came to her from Paris some
photographs of famous French beauties
in their summer toilets, and it is these
she will initiate. Her dotted muslin will
he made after the fashion of that worn
by Mile. Yahne as she energies from
between two velvet curtains. The skirt
il finished with three tiny ruffies, while
the bodice has tucked yoke and n cor
sage with frills of yalenciennes lace and
insertion. The sleeves are glove fitting,
but trimmed with the lace while the
crush belt and soft collar are of white
silk. Chic? Immensely so. And vet
while it is in the style it does not after
servile fashion initiate the gown Worn
by Dorothy, Gwendolen. or Cynthia.
Another cotton is made after one Of
Anna Held's newest frocks. This shows
Il decoration of the dainty ruffes, edged
with narrow lace. while big white
parasol is made-in the photo ut least
TO seem a special part of the toilet. But
it is her jacket of which the wise woman
is proudest this spring-the jacket over
which all Paris is raving. 1t is the
dainty little coat worn by that wonder
ful beauty MaIsy in her last new play.
1t is of bright red cloth, showing lapel
facings of white, but the coat itself i
30 cut that, though it fits the figure,
there is certain laxity TO the front
which is an ingenious compromise be-
tween the bagging of the ubiquitous
blouse and the severity of the classic
jacket. Surely the wise woman could
not choose three better models than
those pictured, for the French actress
even on the stage, never goes to al
extreme. and always sets the mode. III
England and America the actress imi
tates the ladies of the great world. III
arts the most artistic dreSsmaker brings
a. her genius to bear upon toilet fol
the stage. since she is sure that it will be
extensively copied by the most fashion
able women. As Il natural sequence the
French actress seldom oyerdresses. and
she takes Il special pride in suiting her
tO-iet to the exact time and place. When
she is supposed TO be the daughter OF
poor but honest parents. she does not
come on the stage wearing a Felix din
ner dress, but she thinks out what, un
der such circumstances. would be proper
and she assumes it. Who of us hasn'1
seen the exact opposite on the English
speaking stage?
BY the by, to leave the stage. whicl
few people are willing to do, do YOU real
ize that just about now everybody i
taking TO Delsarte 3gain. and youn;
women are black and blue from tumblin;
up stairs and tumbling down stairs an,
learning 10 dec0mpose themselves That,
an abominable word. But it's a receive,
one. Decomposition. You must know. j
the ability to become suddenly limp an,
then just as quickly to use whatever par
of your body you wish in the mos
graceful way One of the best Delsart
teachers announced before Il class TIL
other day that she could tell South
crn woman the minute she entered
room ana sat down. She claimed for he
that she sits naturally and her limb
fall i'll easy poses. 1t seems unnecessa
ry TO say that after this was told
blushed. But at the same time | credi1
I'd it to my natural Incidence. ACCORD
ing to this teacher, the great trOubl
with the woman Of to-day is that sh
hnfrles. Every movement expresses he
haste. and there is no time for grace
You know you can get to place a
quickly by walking well and evenly a
by trotting and stumbling. It's funn
how the novel of the day talks abor
the bearing of women. At the tim
that Mr.. Henry James's novels wer
believed by some people to have ii certai
amount Of interest all the women
them were standing round" He mad
them stand and stand. with occasional
the privilege Of leaning on a mantle
shelf, until they fell into matrimony b.
cause they were so tired. Now, Ouid
very complacently and very kindly. TOT
let's her heroines rest among piles {
cushions. while the heroes eat and drinl
In reality they are thoroughly at the
ease. Miss Braddon had rather an il
clinatlon that way, too though her mi
jestic young women occasionally got IL
and walked across the room and serve
somebody with tea and so displayed the
''well-shaped hands and flashing rings.
The Duchess invariably made all he
young women wave large feather fan,