The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1898-02-12
XXXIII.--NO. Is.


then he added How doesn't it differ
would be easier answered, but he was too
busy to say more.
'Adrien and | have long talks about
that, continued the buyer ''This is a
French kitchen. Everything here is cooked
in French style. Twenty years ago when
man ordered dinner for party he
wanted huge joint or a large roast with
plenty of vegetables and puddings, and so
on. Then people, | believe. went in for
quantity rather than quality, and the cook
cry was rather tasteless. OF late years the
American public has become 50 accustomed
to the French cuisine that there is not one
important cook in this big kitchen who has
not learned his trade in Paris. The chef.
Adrien Tenue, for instance received his
first training in Paris From there he went
to Baden Baden, to Vienna, Berlin,
Copenhagen, Stockholm and London learn
ing everywhere everything that he could
about every branch of cookery. From
London he returned to Paris for an extra
course, and then came to this country
He Was chef for the late Jay Gould for
the Fifth Avenue Hotel and for the Cafe
Sayarin for time and then he returned
to Paris, coming back to take possession of
the Waldorf kitchen. The chiefs of each
department under him have been educated
in Il similar way and all are French cooks.
The principal characteristics Of the cook
arv nf t,I .,,.n it, .lnli.,4o ,,,J
fine sauces. 1t is fashionable now to serve
everything in very small portions, but in
individual fancy forms, 50 that each dish
not only pleases the taste bat also the eye.
Ii is very seldom that one sees Il roast or
joint AT a fashionable dinner now
French cookery has had chance to
develop remarkably in this country, mas
much as IL large amount of material is used
here that is not used at all in France
We seldom find corn used there, okra is
unknown, and tomatoes have only recently
been grown to any extent. Then the
variety Of wild ducks is much larger here,
and wild turkeys and geese, and too many
other things to mention are practically un-
known there.
''Fewer courses are served at dinner
than formerly. There seems to be strong
endeavOr to limit the length of dinner to
from an hour to an hour and half, where
as people used to sit at table for from
two to five hours This is considered not
only very tiresome in this rush age, but
also very bad form. Prompt service,
without unseemly haste is one of the key
notes to successful dinner. Now, all
told, what do you think OF the biggest
kitchen in the world p
The reporter tool; in the hundreds Of
shining cooking utensils hanging from the
ceiling within easy reach of the cooks
She swept her eyes over the spotless tiled
floor and tables and dressers, and then she
turned her attention to the savory dishes
on the ranges.
''I'll tell you what | think, she an
swered slowly I've read of lot of
kitchens in New England being as neat as
wax and run like clock work, and I've
heard Of Il lot of kitchen floors clean enough
to eat off in cooking schools, but | think
this is the only one in this country or any
other where [ would literally be willing to
take meal from off the floor But may
I ask one more question. How do you
manage about your soups? Suppose you
have twenty soups ON the bill Of fare for
dinner, Would they all be in bic pots
ready to serye?'
Heavens, no, he answered. That 5
the way we managed things twenty years
ago, and that the way hotel soup fell into
such disrepute and became the butt Of pro-
fessional jokers, which is the worst fate
that can come to anything Or anybody.
We make 400 gallons of first t-class soup
stock in this kitchen every day. All
French soups are make of stock, you know,
and if you have good stock on hand the
finest kind Of soup can be made in jiffy,
and is much better for being quickly
made