Evening star., 1898-09-10
FOR UP.TO-DATE WOMEN
Goats and Capes for Autumn Wear Are At.
tractive Now.
The New Jackets Have an Old-Time
Look and Capes Have Long
Fronts and Short Bncks.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

A>IH 1NiNNs CSptSiiiptA o. LV|'''.
| A judiciously chosen wrap is a good IN
| vestment for the fall of the year. If be-
! coming and of the latest cut it can be
| worn over summer and spring gowns, and
| transform them into gowns quite suitable
| for a later date than alone they would
| dare to appear in public.
| The spring jackets will be found quite
| right in cut and finish, for the few changes
| which have como since then not of
| great moment, but in color they are not as
| suitable: for while gray was the color for
| spring, biscuit and fawn or tan are in high
! favor for this autumn. By the addition of
| a tan broadcioth Jacket a gray spring
| gown seen TO blossom forth this week
| into an autumn gown of correct ami aI-
proved fashion.
Sleeves are somewhat closer fitting than
| they We're in the spring and they fare in
| a most pronounced manner at the wrist;
but otherwise there is not great differ
| eDce: and one may go farther back than
spring into ones wardrobe and find coats
| which have many points in common with
| the accepted coat of the hour. For ir-
| stance. the high, close-fitting collar which
has been worn for quite year or more
| may be seen on many new coat. 1t has
] a narrower flare or turnover piece in the
back, perhaps. but that is all. The blouse
| coats however, have not appeared. There
| is no sign of pouched front on any OF the
| autumn wraps which have come out SO far.
Wnicn SHOWS tnat a determined elTOrt to
| make women buy entirely new coats and
| utterly eschew those of last fall is being
made. This is good policy for mo5istes.
but women of good taste and refinen1ar7:
no matter how long their purses. object to
| throwing aside a perfectly Eood garment
which has only seen one seasons weHr.
So probably good and satiSF2c n,y
| way will be found to remodel the Russian
| E!oCse
| A modified (or glorif;ed. as one enthusiast
put iU form of blazer coat is being made
| Up of lady's cloth Or similar material.
| either quite plain, with an deliberately
| trimmed vest showing. or covered itself
! with jet and braid, and parting 10 show
/ the gown underneath. Some of these coats
have all the seams corded with 4 gav miv-
| ture of silver 0" gilt cord and cord tie
color Of the cloth of which they are COM
| posed. Some of them are trimmed with
! braid or are covered with black braid
| braid of lighter shade than the cloth
| itself. This last is French novelty. and
sounds rather daring.
Tiny Velvet Hutton Rows.
| For the vests of faring coats there are
| tiny Velvet-coVcred buttons to be put oll in
! large numbers. double row. or one may
! have large fancy buttons instead. Many
| of these vests simulate waistcoats of elab-
! crate material or design. Vests are often
| of white broadclOth or of fancy sat:rs and
make one think ruefully of the visits to
| the cleaners which will be in order 70
| keep them spotless. one of the graceful
coats with a vest which shows only slightly
| is made of hrOadcoth. The coat fits
! snugly and in the back terminates at the
! waist line. In the front it has two wide
! revers of white broadcloth. trimmed with
raid appliqucd. which end in two sharp
| points quite three or four inches below the
| waist. The collar turns back and is trim
| med in the same way as the revers. The
| waistcoat is also CT white and fits very
| tightly.
| A few belted coats are seen. but no: very
many. and the indications are that this
effect. which is most becoming to slender
| figures. will he confined to out-of-door cos
| tunes for golf and wheeling.
Three-Gunrter Length Conts.
Lcng dust coats, which resemble the ul-
ster of wore, have been seen at intervals
| all summer and a three-quarters coat is
promised US. 1t will be smart, judging
| from the models. hut whether 1t will be
! popular is quite another thing. To wear a
| loose garment which hangs about to ones
| knees. and which has no darts in the man.
| ner of the few of its kind which are al
ready on exhibition. REQUIRES peculiar
| grace, and also requires height and few
| other requisites as to beauty which are
not at the beck and call of Dame Fashion
| They are gifts she cannot beStow, with all
| her care and thought.
There is little doubt that women are GO
| ing to wear capes this fall to a greater
| extent than has been done for some time
| past. One sees capes of any and all de-
u
! sort have an oid-fashioned look. 1t is an
| open secret this autumn that the very
| smartest effect is an old-fashoned one.
| Search among the pictures of gowns of the
early 1o's and sos. pore over the fashion
| plates Of those days carefully, and then
| evolve your winter autumn gown, as
| the case may be.
The most popular capes are short in front
! and long in the back. Sometimes they
end in a point in the back sometimes they
| are rounded back and front, sometimes
there are three capes, one over the other
| and sometimes there is only one but near
| ly always they droOp in the back and are
quite short in the front. BESIDES this they
/ must have clinsing and closely encr-
cling air, which reminds one of the days
when women led sheltered and shielded
lives and did not go to concerts. lectures
| thcaters, or what not alone at night with
| out manly protectors, and did not have
| clubs and club houses.
Capes FIounced and Yoked.
| The cape has not been able TO escape the
| flouuce. One of the newest models has a
| founce encircling it. The only trimming is
| five rows of stitching which bind the
founce to the body of the cape, appear on
| a wide Y in the form of yoke, and deco
| rate the high rolling collar. This cape too
| like most of them, is long in the back and
| IN the front Is cut so short that the fiounce
| ends in nothing. and the V. which gives
| the effect of a pointed yoke. is the extreme
length of it. This brings the middle of the
| front only little below the line of the
shoulders.
The lining of capes, like the vests of jack
| cts, is of the most delicate and gayest ma
! terial. A fawn-colored broadcioth cape
which was very plainly made rounding up
| short In front and dropping long in the
| back, was lined with delicate yellow bro
| caded satin. The effect was most artistic
In the desire TO be old fashioned the pc
| llsses have not been neglected and one of
| the smartest garments shown this month
| Is combined cape and pelisse. The cape
| is rather long in the back and rounds up
| on the front, scarcely reaching beyond the
shoulders, thus showing the pelisse which
| is the regulation two-tabbed long affair."
| covered With Jet in this instance, and belted
| in at the waist
Although the newest models are the
capes and pelisses, together with blazer
| like jackets, the double-breasted coats are
never out of service, but hardly need to
| be mentioned, as there is little change in
| their shape, or even in their collars or
| sleeves. Let this comfort US when we look
| at the odd trailing, ciinging lines of the
| garments in which we are asked to appear
! now that 'the melancholy days are come"
| MABEL BOYD.