The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-06-26
FOR FEMININE READERS
WHITE GOWNS ARE IN GREATER
DEMAND THAN EVER BEFORE.
Theory that the Future of the sani-
tary Movement Depends Upon
Women-Rag Carpet in Fashion.

White dresses are in such general demand
that the ingenuity of designers is heavily
taxed to devise new and attractive models
and to furnish something that will catch
the eye of the woman of fashion, says the
fashion writer of the New York Ledger. The
announcement of a novelty is consequently
quite enough to draw visitors to the private
views that are given of these artistic crea-
tons. "Just for the sake of something
new" an artist in good clothes made an
experiment the other day, which proved to
be great success. The material was white
India silk and the fabric was tucked length
wise, about three inches space being left
between the tucks, which were a little more
than a quarter of an inch wide. Upon the
edges of these tucks Valenciennes lace
about half an inch wide was sewed in over
stitch, then smoothed out so that the lace
formed slightly full ruffie on the edge of
each tuck. The skirt was made of straight
widths of the material, the fullness being
so arranged at the waist line that only the
lace was visible. To secure this effect the
space between the tucks was laid in an
under plat. This left the tuck itself and the
lace to be gathered in as became necessary.
The waist and sleeve patterns were laid
upon the goods and cut out in the usual
fashion. The yoke, shoulders and collar
were finished with wider lace of the same
sort. The body of the dress was gathered
into yoke and belt, the sleeves were full
at the tops and the cuffs were slightly far
ing and trimmed with lace to match that
used for the collar. A belt of white satin
ribbon laid in folds and large bow with
long loops and ends made an appropriate
finish.
The struggle for something new has led
to the use of some rather unusual fabrics
for tailor costumes. One importer makes
a speciality of genuine old-time handmade
homespun linen. The thread is round and
heavy and the goods might be classed as
coarse, if it were less handsome and costly
1t shows its value on it's face, however, and
this fact has led to its use for some of the
SWEETEST dresses of the season. To employ
such a material for such a purpose involves
the services Of an expert and this sort Of
handiwork is apparent at a single glance.
One of these dresses was made with the
perfectly plain skirt that is in itself so
carefully adjusted that it requires no trim
ming other than the exquisite finish always
seen on this kind OF feminine gear The
waist was made in blouse fashion with
sleeves of the ordinary shirt waist cut The
straight cuffs are closed with gold links,
The collar is high with points turning
slightly outward, style that is much
better liked than the straight, round collar,
the corners of which are sometimes very ir-
ritating to the throat. A tie of scarlet satin
ribbon with ends long enough to tuck into
the belt is the only bit of color about the
dress. The skirt is provided with shaped
and fitted corselet belt somewhat wider
than the belts ordinarily worn. The closing
buckle of carved pearl. The color of the
linen is most becoming to delicate complex
ions, and any one may wear it by adding
bright-tinted accessories, such as necktie,
belt and SASH if desired. A perfectly plain,
thick and very heavy satin ribbon is the
only suitable material for such finishings.
An ideal costume is made of very heavy,
fine Japanese crepe. The skirt has cords
about three-eighths of an inch thick run
in at intervals of about four inches at the
hem. These cords are slightly closer to-
gether as they near the waist line. The
material is not shirred or gathered upon the
cords, neither is it held full. The effect is
simply that of a woven-in cord, rather firm
and semi-rigid The skirt, however. is
shaped so that this rigidity does not make
across the sides of the skirt, while on the
front they are very gently curved. The
waist has the cords running around the
figure and the sleeve cords run around the
arms There is a very deep, square yoke
of pansy purple velvet with folded collar
of the same material. A wide lapel of the
velvet extends from one edge of the yoke to
the belt crossing the front in surplice fash
ion, the point of the lapel almost covering
the front OF the sleeves. Inc VelVet Deit is
closed with an antique gold clasp. The
cuffs are of velvet. with the edges corded
with crepe. This is one of the most ex-
quisite productions of the dressmakers art.
Every young woman has stylish and
pretty dresses which are past their first
newness and which she would like to
freshen up for informal evening wear. This
she easily can do by employing few yards
of lace and ribbon in making up dainty col
lars and fronts. folded collar with rib
bon bow at the back of the neck, the neces-
sary length of net lace or embroidery, a belt
shoulder ruff1es are the foundations of such
garnitures.