The times., 1898-04-24

wish 10 be consDicuousIy behind the
style are anxiously asking themselves
where these fashionable rear extensions
Will come 10 a stop.
The train of a smart cloth walking
dress flows two inches on the floor,
while house and dinner gowns trail out
from six inches TO three feet behind their
wearers. The proper train gathers no
fullness Of the waist line, but is so skill
fully cut that from six inches below the
waist its amplitude begins-up about the
placket hole its gathers are pinched and
close but at the knees it begins to flare
and thence flows forth, broad and fan
like smoothness, iaring so little below
the knees that the average petticoat
seems to fit its wearer as neatly as a
silk casing does an umbrella.
Observation iustifes the statement
that no haircloth is used in any train,
but a coarse muslin. as an interlining,
runs from hem to hip and only in the
back Perhaps the most serious phase
Of the train, though, is that it does not
appear to advantage when held high and
clear of street dust and dirt The cut
OF the new skirt demands that, for the
sake both of dignity and grace. the train
be left to fiow unchecked, and even the
most astute woman cannot support these
rear folds in her hands with becoming
postures. For this reason many of the
Iailors face the trains of walking suits
with thin leather, for the depth of four
or seven inches. and, also, for this rea-
son. independent spirits and cleanly
souls are arrayed in fierce revolt against
The train abomination, as they not un-
justihably term il.
So very few waists are made TO fasten
at the bottom over their skirts that the
dressmakers are driven almost to their
wits end TO find original schemes for
betting in their patrons
Since sashes have been dropped out and
folded girdles have fallen from their re-
cent high estate, the only resource left
IS the leather. velvet or ribbon straight
bands. Two dull-gold turtles, enameled
with Jewels. their necks stretched out
and locked in deadly combat, is the sort
of buckle ornament and clasp affected
on ribbon belts by those who can afford
10 adopt every passing mode
In the shops they are selling ribbon by
the yard. gros grained betting, most
smartly figured in steel beads or spangles,
and far more decorative, costly and at
tractive are the girdles of thinnest vel
ret-fnished suede, that measure three
inches at the back. taper to fine point
in front and are crossed al short inter-
walls by narrow slides Of hligTee silver
meshing many small. bright stones.
These girdles, in velvet, satin and silk,
with very lovely turquoise and Rhine
stone slides are adapted for wear with
the richest evening toilets, and their es
pecial charm Is the aspect OF graceful
slimness they lend 10 almost any figure
that is within bounds.
Very slim-Waisted women are going TO
wear with their linen skirts and shirt
waists heavy satin and light leather waist
bands, nearly four inches deep and so
laced uo with silk strings or leather
thongs in front that they can be nodded
exactly To the forms they embrace.
An oddity that the feminine eye lights
upon in the shops just now is the black
satin corset belt, 10 wear with airy organ
dies and dotted swisses. The corset max
ers manufacture these all boned and cord
ed, clasping in front with three httle gold
hooks and laced behind and afTesh every
time the belt is put on.
The silk laces run through gold eyelets,
and have bright gold Tags. and tailors
turn out for wear with the silk and
cotton shiTt-Wasists they make zone
belts Of black satin. Small double
points at front and back, and The satin
pinched into close lingerie tucks, 20 TO
form the only moderately broad belt
that stout women are not earnestly
prayed TO scorn and avoid.
When none Of these shaped belts are
adopted, the woman in a quandary as
20 how she can best hide the junction
Of her skirt and waist belts, ought TO
wrap around her middle q wide black
libersy satin ribbon, and tie IN a single
loop bow al the left side. and directly in
the center Of the back. The ribbon
folds should be drawn out as much as
possible. and, with small, bright jeweled
brooches the ribbons edges pinned as
FAR down on the skirt and up on the
waist ~ they viii 60
Shrt-Waists Of the cotton persuasion
are growing very coQuettish indeed. with
their yokes Of embroidery, AMI into the
field Of cotton blouses has come q new
white shirt-waist made Of all-over en-
broidery- II Is an exceedingly pictur-
esque and soul-satisfying garment on a
wEite-hot SUmer day, and under il
mus be worn a cache corset Of white
linen or colored silk.
In all respects this latest conner is
made. quite Ike any gingham shirt mi
nus the very prevalent tucking. Some
Of them. il is true, show wide sailor
collars OF embroidery, under which, in
front knots a small bright tie OF soft
silk Stif white linen collars and cuffs
are made on these Shirts. but the
front buttons are white woven bullets
There is almost a sensation over the
cotton, silk, and percale shirts. with fin
ished tails, that the tailors are putting
out as bait 10 novelty seekers. This is
Greet lDuEcement 10 wear the short
and hitherto concealed tail outside the
dress belt. and just how the great femi-
nine public viii receive the idea is not yet
known In scalloDs paints and wedge
shaped tabs, or full rufiies. the tails are
completed and slim-waisted women un-
denlably profit by this pretty hip decora-
Jion.
no demur OF the faintest sort has been
offered to the shirts Of white linen and
Hains0Ok having richly embroidered bos-
oms. The bosoms are soft and full and
fretted with most delicate needlework
usually IN a series OF wreaths or vines
Not touch Of color is introduced in the
figures, ieweled buttons are warn in the
cuffs and bosom and a bright taffeta
stock takes the place Of a linen collar
These expensive dainties Of dress are re-
Parded as eminently appropriate for any
morning occasion, even Tor a wedding in
Summer and IN the country.
A feature of the warm weather season
that promises 10 be the most prominent
s. the predominance everywhere Of the
white costume. TailoTs and dressma kers.
shoemakers, and milliners. all tell the
same tale, and moreover assure the in
quirer that many Of their patrons, es-
pecially those at the debutautish age.
have registered solemn vows to wear only
white the whole season through. This Is
easily vouched for by the sight Of innu-
merable white serge, satin cloth, and
poplin costumes. richly and elaborately
designed, that the necdlewomen are busy
completing; the white silk, Isle and cot
ton hose in the shops, the white duck
muslin linen, and pique skirts made up
by the great gross and the popularity Of
white vanished leather ties and white