The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-05-30
SPRING and SUMMER
FASHIONS FOR MEN

once SAID mat perhaps no man WOULD
ever know whether it is better to wear
nightcaps or not. 1t probably made
very little difference to the English critic
what the public thought of the style of
nightcap he wore or whether he wore,
one at all. DIR. Johnson, however.
might have been more liberal in his
views with respect to his daily attire on
the theory that even the best of men
are to a greater or less degree response
BILE to their fellows for their style of
dress. A man of great wealth or emf
hence undoubtedly has greater liberty in
matters of style, IN there are men in
this humdrum world who defy fashion
plates without counting the cost and
who succeed i'm a business or profess
sional way despite their nonconformity.
On the other hand, there are others, and
their name is legion, who have bearded
the social lion IN his den and have come
out second best.
Abraham Lincoln, who is generally
designated as the first American and
hero Of the common people, got along
very vel, with his linsey-woolsey shirt
and coonskin cap until he took up his
residence in Springfield. hen his social
troubles began and his friends urged
upon him the necessity of ''sleeking up a
little" Mr.. Lincoln insisted that the
best clothes were worn by gamblers,
whose appearance was compatible only
with their want of breeding and the
recklessness and desperation of their
avocation, but he was nevertheless
forced to follow the advice of his friends
i'm a measure and his b~iographers relate
that he did finally wear clothes which
came within range of responsibility"
Now, IL Abraham Lincoln could not
wholly resist the decree of fashion, nat
hops can be held out to the ordinary
mortal who lacks the ability and great
personal power which Providence be-
slowed upon Lincoln? Although Chica-
goans are reputed to be behind their
Gotham cousins in matters of dress, they
are gradually becoming more punctili-
Gus, and the day is said to be not far
distant when the native who does not
heed the fashion book will be regarded
with suspicion in social and business
circles. To e.sure, il costs a great deal
of money to keep pace with the vagaries
of fashion, but the most humble APP
preparation for dress and the toilet dis
rather thar to classify all people with
respect to their ability to keep insstyle
close taste, and IL is therefore with a
view to indicate what is the vogue
that this review is attempted.
At the outset 1t may be well to quote
an old rule which stylish people always
fOllOM ana winch COnnOlSStufS VI idSh-
ion never deny. 1t is this:
BE not the first by whoin the new is
tried,
Nor vet the last to lay the old aside.
OF course, this maxim presumes a
class of people who violate 1t, but Nlo-
lators only prove the rule and restrict
the membership Of the middle class VINO
are entitled to be called "genteel.' Gen
teel people under this Interpretation of
/ .roa,f1tt,- ~ tharafnFa nnt necessarily
people who spend a great deal of none
on clothes. They are simply people who
are abreast with the times, neither
ahead noi behind the procession. In TINS
connection il is noteworthy that Ward
McAll.ster. at one time leader of New
York's 400, advised a young man who
asked him how he should dress, replied:
Always dress neatly and modestly;
dress so that no one would be able 10
recall. after talking with YOU, you
wore"
This advice comes from high author
ity. but ii is very questionable whether
Mr.. McAllister would nave desired IL
to be followed by the swell set in Goth
am. over which he reigned for many
years.
Chicago is singular and original in
many respects. but her styles come
from the wise me in the East. and the
gay world requires that she should
obey the orders of Vanity Fair. 1t Is
impossible to estimate the cost OF a
years wardrobe, even in a city like
Chicago, whose social graces, accord
ing to New Workers, have not ad.
vanced far beyond the categorical
cowboy" state.
Chicagoans, il appears, are not
swell dressers as a rule, not because
they lack the means, but because they
hurry. live fast and are bent upon max
ing money.
Il do not want to belittle Chicago in
any way said a well-dressed north
slider to the representative of he sun
day Chronicle. but there are very few
people i'm this city who make a special
toilet for dinner or take more thar
passing interest in the selection of their
wardrobe. / am speaking now of men
and women of means who are far bet
ter able to dress than Eastern people.
Our temperament is different from that
of our Eastern cousins and the ordi-
nary man of affairs, after working ong
hours at his office, does not feel like
coming home for the purpose of dress
ing for a ball OF making any special
toilet for dinner. When he comes
home he wants quiet and rest and he
imagines he rests better in his old
clothes than otherwise, and perhaps
he is right. but he will never enjoy
life as his means will permit him un-
til he puts away some of his old ideas
and gets into the habit of dressing
up"
What does il cost a man to be a good
dresser and buy his wardrobe in Chi
cago? 1T all depends" is the answer
given by the trade" 1t depends OF
ones tastes, the power of ones pocket
book and, to a certain extent, upor
ones judgment with respect TO ones
%gullibilfty. The prevailing style In
mems attire may be stated in a line
Suit yourself" AS a rule. coats. vests
and trousers are modest with gespect t.
colors. neatness being the object
sought. As for hosiery, neckwear
shoes and gloves, loud colors prevail
In fact, the more color the better
Striped hose in bright red. purple
green. brown and shades thereof. lisl'
thread. are all the rage. They cos
front 50 tn IS cents a pair. while sill
hose cost from 81 to $3.50 a pair. anC
even more. Hose may also be had IN
49,