Evening star., 1898-08-27
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Freshening Spring Gowns and Hats for
Early Fall Wear.
A Blouse Waist Can BE Easily Chang
ed to n BeIted Princess--Shoe
and Glove Hints.

NEW YORK. August "a, 1898.
With the Thermometer steadily trying
each day to accomplish a century, 1t is
hard to turn ones lenguid attention to
anything more serious in the line of gowns
than dimity and organdie. Yet the fact
remains that now IS the time to refurbish
gowns which did duty in the spring and
were then laid aside account of the
heat. These are the lightweight wooden
gowns, which were donned when We folded
away in camphor. pepper cedar our
| heavy winter clothes
The skirts and coats which were made in
the spring are, of course, not in need Of
any change of form or line. Indeed
| well-cut, well-made gown can, in almost
every instance, be worn either two winters
or two summers without alteration. That
| is why really good gowns of good cut are
| such an investment, they wear longer and
| better than more inferior frocks, and can
be depended upon TO always show their
| origfn-just lady is always lady,
though her day for silk and satin raiment
may be over and her present surroundings
modest or obscure.
| But about this season braids and facings
dust ruffies and Innings require a thorough
! cverhauling. Much of this work skillful
reedlewoman can do for herself. Most
| tatiors, however, will dust thoroughly and
put new Dfdid upon a Skirt Tor a dollar,
also doing the necessary pressing TO re-
JuVenate the cloth. 1t usually pays to have
him do 1t, as there is a finish to their woriS
and a vigor 10 their pressing which is not
to be had at home.
| ii Is mas been a very damp summer. If
one has baen near the seacoast it will be
| found that lightweight cloth skirts have
cIept up in the front and down in the back.
| Whether this is due TO the material, the
lining or the interining the braid should
be taken off and some happy medium of
| length between back and front arrived at
now. When autumn comes we may not
have quite as intense a desire for new raj
| ment and a dstaste for old gentle spring
| brings US, but we do want to appear in
gowns whose imperfections have been skill
| fully remedied. In the spring the fiounce
| had not become much a matter of course
| as 1t is now, but if the gown one intends
to wear travelling or shopping and knocking
about for the next few months is made on
| long lines it is quite Well. For princess
| enects are undoubtedly gaining ground,
and short woman should bear this in
mind in freshening up her wardrobe. For
| her long lines of trimming and double
| skirts which almost simulate the once be-
loved Greek overdress are far better than
| the eternal skirt cut en- forme."
| From Blouse to Princess
The princess effect, by the way gives on,
an excellent method of altering the Russian
b-ouses into very chic gowns If the one
one wishes to remodel is full both back and
! iioHl, lHe Ddch must De rented and
brought smoothly into the belt The full
front will need little change. Simply bring
| the fullness into g. narrower compass so
that the droop will all be in one place.
Then cut off the skirt of the coat and re-
place the belt The coat will then terIni-
| nate at the waist line, and when united to
| the skirt by some reliable method, one has
| one of the new helted princess gowns. All
! of the belted princess gowns are in two
| enGct
being all made in one.
| Although coat sleeves grow smaller those
| on our gowns will do very well for autumn,
| as SO far the change is not great. 1t is
| we'll to look carefully into the silk Innings
| of coats a this season of the year. If they
are found to be worn about the sleeves, as
| is often the case, a cap of silk should be
| put in to protect the worn silk Ii is not
necessary to have this cap of silk, how
| ever; there are many excellent Innings
| which slip on and off easily. If this is
| not resorted to, it win soon be found neces-
| sary to completely relieve the whole sleeve.
as silk once grown tender will never again
bear hard wear.
Most of the new coats are made with
revers, and if one had last season a coat
| which buttoned closely to the throat, it is
| a pretty but not easy change to have 1t
| turned beck this fall with revers Of silk
| in harmony with the gown.
A coat which closed tight in front can be
freshened by putting frogs across to fasten
| it This same frog effect can also be used
| front has herstofore been worn vide open.
Freshen Up the Innings.
| To return to Innings, it is now matter |
| of taste whether they shall be part of the |
gown or only Joined to it at the waist line. |
In the latter case it is very easy to either |
change or repair them, as the case may |
| need, and in the former a fresh lining will |
be found to have a wonderfully rejuvenat- |
| ing effect. OF course, silk Innings must be |
repaired and strengthened and coaxed to |
last as long as possible, just good table |
| linen must be darned and kept in service to |
| the last thread. But one feels tender |
solicitude about percaline silesia. And |
if after they have lost their body and fallen |
into ''beggar plaits' they can be replaced, |
SO much the better for the skirt.
This too, is the time to consult the fur |
rier as to ways and means of making over |
and restoring capes, muffs. boas, coats and /
the like. Fur seems to undergo a curious |
contraction time goes on. OF course, it |
is not probable that it shrinks. but in |
these days of luxury and generous models |
the fur jacket of yore will only contain |
enough fur for the collarette of today. |
This should be remembered and the furrier |
exonerated for not making us large circu- |
lar capes out of our skinny out-of-date |
jackets.
This, too. is the appointed time TO exam |
Inc any dem1-SaiSon toQue or turban which |
happens to be in stock and see if by the |
for an everyday hat when sailors are |
called in.
Now for Silk Waists.
Silk waists which are dark enough to
wear amid the gorgeous hues of autumn |
foliage should now seek the cleaners or
have some rejuvenating process applied to
them by their owner, remembering always |
that deodorized benzine is a highly ex-
plosive substance.
Gloves should be sternly examined and |
their cleanliness insisted upon. Boots and
shoes should pass an examination as to the
straightness of their heels and the whole
ness of their soles When all these affairs,
as well ds ribbons, ties and collars have
been overhauled and refurbished, We may
feel that We have made good use of the |
last end of our holiday, and sit and wait
with tranquility the first early activity and
festivity of autumn, knowing We are not
kin to Miss Flora McFhinsy.
MABEL BOYD.