Evening star., 1898-03-05
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Some Of the Novelties for Spring and
Summer Gowns.
Old Materials Under New Names
GRENADINES and Poplins-sflks
and silk Innings.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

this season, as always. under various
names. But careful examination of the
Lest importations leads one to the con-
clusion that our grandmoIhers would have
classed them all grenadines and let 1t
go at that. Certainly almost every one of
them is transparent and necessitates the
use of a silk lining. Sc, being content
with the name grenadine, We will proceed
to look at all of the novelties and try to
satisfy ourselves. Satisfaction will be easy
if the purse is long. And even If one is
obliged to be economical silk and mo-
hair srenadine is a good investment, and a
very good one can be bought for less than
81 yard. OF course, those that cost over
that figure are legion, and very odd and
beautiful.
There is a division this spring between
bayadere effects. which are very new and
tartan and striped effects, which are very
popular. Neither seems so far to he
getting the better of the struggle so in
choosing gown, one need only be guided
Dy which effect of the two is the more
becoming to ones particular style Either
will be smart.
Grenadine used to make one think of a
lace-iike fabric, generally black. 1t is
still generally black but not black alone
Usually it is striped or cross-barred with
some brilliant color. Burnt orange. tur-
quolse tor darker and more beautiful
shade OF biue), violet, purple and often a
brlillant SraSS-green are the colors which
are generally woven with the new erena
aines- The lining, of course, is usually of
taifeta silk the shade of the color in the
FABRIC. and some of the daring French
modistes, not satisfied with the combina
tlon or these dazzling shades with The
black make collars or yokes of a con-
trastins shade. One traveller lust return
% eu from that wonderful city of Paris de-
scrlbes a Paquin model which was made
OF black greradine, striped with purple
me lining was purple silk and the collar
OF the gown was burnt-orange velvet
rms sounds impossible, but is described as
being beautiful 80
From the Time of Louis.
one hears a great deal about the renais-
sance fabrics, and is amused to discover
that most Of them are also grenadines of
piack, barred or striped with a contrast
ing color. The name is explained by the
lac. that they are revival of patterns
and fabrics which were popular in the
material which - " "
A most gossamerlike fabric with a SHIN
M iner OF mooniise to it. is shown under the
name OF "traN ers popline.'' The "travers'
- tne Dayadere silk stripe crossing the
fabric This is most bewftching in a lilac
or violet and would make a stunning as
Wen as dainty gown for garden parties
and afternoon wear
'CarreauX q Jour- is the NON, do ,,1,,,,,o
OF a material which reminds one of ethe
realized poplin. The ''carreaux'' in this
case Is woven stripe of ribbon which is
put on ike little tuck and obviates the
mecessiy OF buying tucking for the skirt
Ihls fabric comes in gray or white and is
most beautiful in dark blue woven with
a line OF black. the ribbon being blue and
me .en rep brought out in black and blue.
Bayadere souffiee" is the name of a silky
shimmering material which has a Persian
erect and is woven in bayadere effect in
soft, bright colors. 1t is called "soufflee''
because 1t is loose and wavy, giving the eff
1ect OF raised material, just as the old Gre
pons did, only in larger stripes The coIors
are SO delicate and the fabric so soft that
it, too, must be relegated to the gowns
winch We wear when We pose as lilies of
the held This same material without the
bayadere stripe comes under the name of
yelling d'alger" This latter term is
much more descriptive of the cobweby ef-
feet which this fabric gives
Gong back to the grenadines. It is well
TO know that though the grenadines with
foundation of spool silk yelling are much
worn and are certainly very alluring they
Will not give the same amount of wear as
the grenadines made in a way which used
to be called, and is still, 'iron.' The .siron"
grenadine is not necessarily an old-fasb
Toned, close-woven grenadine. it is often
open and comes in plaids and stripes. but
it does not have background of silk veil
ing, and it is warranted not to pull under
ordinary wear and tear.
Silks and Silk Innings.
Transparent materials are so favored
that when we leave the gauzy fabrics and
come to more prosaic an1 more very-day
ones We find that they too, are trans
formed into open-work, so that under even
cashmeres and serges and under the modi-
fled hop-sacking and homespuns, which
have returned to favor, il will be neces-
sary to have silk lining, as the lining
must and does show.
If one can afford to have but one summer
gown a SILK is of course the best and most
satisfactory investment, after one is pro-
Vlded with lightweight cloth made on
severe lines for travel and ordinary occa-
sions. There are several varieties of taffe-
ia which are sold In different shops under
different names, which bid fair to be the
most popular of summer silks. Their ad-
vantage is that they are softer than the
old tafetas, hence wear better, and are
much pleasanter to wear, as they do not
rustic enough to make one think of the
crack of a whip every time a step is taken
They promise to be more popular than the
foulards, and come in stripes, either hori-
zontal or perpendicular, plaids, etc They
are also to be had in all the colors of the
rainbow and some other shades which put
an ordinary solar or lunar rainbow to the
blush.
Black taffeta is seen and worn every
where and many of the latest importations
are of this color. Blue and white or blue
and gray, make pretty and durable gowns
Chaliis is recommended as a good invest
ment for summer and spring gown by a
woman who has great deal of experience
in picking out fabrics. The new chaljis are
so beautiful that it is a pity the name cam
not be changed to one not associated in
our minds with the very ugly patterns in
which challis originally appeared The
novelty challis have an exquisite satin
stripe. So, If indulging in an expensive
satin-striped challis, remember it is not fer
shopping or travelling, only for calling ard
church.
Whatever material or materials are chos-
en- for the summer and spring adornment
remember that trimming is matter of the
greatest moment. Unless one find a
trimming to match a fabric, il is best to
give it up and choose another For we
must have belts, buckles. beads and SPAN
giles anywhere and everywhere If We are to
follow fashions dictates.
MABEL BOYD.