The herald., 1898-04-24

have bias band around the waist with
ribbon ruffle sewed on the lower edge.
PlaidS have wild over nearly every
gingham waist on the market. Though
most Of these ginghams are French the
Scotch pattern is introduced into every
one Of them, and the old fondness for
Scotch gingham has long ago given
way to the preference for the finer
French article. These, as I remarked
before, are either trimmed or made up
in such way as to appear so. Some
Of the simplest are laid in fine tucks on
each side of the front under the chin
for about four inches, and the fullness
thus obtained is allowed to spread it
self over the bust until it is gathered in
again at the waist. The tucks reach
about four inches from the front to-
ward the shoulders and do not require
much more fullness than is usually
gathered in at the neck, and for an
inch or two along the shoulder seam.
Gingham and silk waists are both
made with collars of the same material
as the rest of the garment White linen
will not be popular, and in its place
will be the dainty, white nainsook or
null laid in fine tucks. The collars of
gingham to match are narrow, turned
over euSeS OIl TOulO Dduu, anu dTe
open both back and front.
Ties are also made Of material to
match the waist, and the Ascot with
long ends is the favorite style; next to
that the bow tie takes it's place, and
the four-in-hand, except for the Ro-
man striped and fringed scarfs, is least
in favor.
Belts are the next consideration in
| fhn trIIntinn nf a shirt wallet
tune. But the choice is so wide and
the selection so dependent upon the
amount of money one can afford to
spend for it that it is hardly profitable
to harrow up ones feelings over the
beauties of countless varieties of gir-
dies now on the market One style,
however, is so unique and so decidedly
French in its makeup that it Is worthy
of notice. It is the turtle belt, with
imitation turtles in natural colors for
buckles, and with smaller reptiles of
the same species set on at intervals
around the waist.
The craze for the turtle in jewelry be-
gan in Paris, and since it's importation
to this country bids fair to run the
snake out of the gold field. 1t Is made
of dull black enamel and set with tur-
quoises and rubies, and with it's chain
attached Is SO much like the real quar-
ter of "a dollar mud turtle that the
American girl congratulates herself
upon the Improvement she has made
upon French realism which demands
live, cold, wriggling turtles with jewels
set in their shell backs.
Others, less realistic, are made of
French gilt or silver and set solidly
with brilliants and imitation rubies.
The hat that goes with the shirt
waist this year will follow the popular
taste in the selection of the waists
themselves, and will be much more
elaborately trimmed than in former
years. Plaid scarfs with wings will be
used for knockabout wear, flowers and
null or tulle for dressy occasions.
Wings come in SO many beautiful
colors that they take the place Of rib
bon loops-are bright and stylish at the
same time. Turquoise wings are ex-
ceedingly popular.
One of the most attractive hats i
have seen was a round black straw
with turquoise wings and punches of
mixed purple and white violets. Rib
bon is rarely used, and when 1t is, it is
wide and furnished with three or four
rows Of cording. Taffeta silk is found
to be quite as good as ribbon for this
purpose, and is less expensive. Great
folds of silk are frequently used on leg
horn hats of the shepherdess style.
The aforementioned shape is quite
popular as it's trimming. dropping down
over the back of the brim is in keeping
with the general taste for covering up
the back hair.
Copyright, 1898, by the International
Literary and News Service.