davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
COSTUMES FOR MARCH.
THE SHRINKING BLOUSE.

Now that we get nearer and nearer to
genuine springtide. nothing is more
clearly apparent than that the blouse
front is about to shrink into a perfectly
straight line from bust to waist. Every
woman with a full figure is rejoicing
accordingly and adopting the fiat fit in
front. While the slender ones cling to a
fulness that must be without any
pouched or dropped aspect.
Skirts are literally still torn between
conflicting dreSSmakerS and prefer
ences. 1t is beyond dispute that wash
gowns must be made with one large
Spanish fiounce, and this in turn be
fiounced with narrow frills or striped
with ribbon or fretted with embroid-
cry to any woman's taste; but the
tailors cry 'ViVe la bell skirt" Liter
ally a bell-shaped petticoat and onto
these cloth petticoats they pray per-
mission to stitch bands of bright satin
or silk. or fine set tuckS. or wrinkle
the goods with corded or, latest of
fashions, cut out of cloth large ara
besques and stitch these on to cloth
The aspect thus gained is of cloth rich
ly and fancifully embossed in it's own
color, or one may have this same
thing done in two gently contrasting
colors.
While the tailors labor for the cleo
tIon OF the bell skirt to supreme fash
ionabie eminence, the modistes are
working like beavers for the princess
shape, and between these rival fac
lions there is an amount of variety in
dressmaking We have rot known n e.
number of years. All the while trains
are crawling out in the rear and haJr-
cloth is creeping up our backs. The
haircloth does depend, though, on the
preJudices of the modiste patfonlzeu,
for a gOOdly proportion are advocating
the very new French method of max
ing the skirts unusually long all
around, separating lining and goods,
and facing the former up only a depth
of four inches with any stiItening. ~
this means all the skirts fullness falls
in Imply at the feet and the result is an
aesthetic appearance at the cost of
comfort. The rival faction believe that
a train must slope out gradually, in
organ like folds from the waist GOWN
So there we are, all paying our money
and taking our choice, and in conse-
quence the women this season do not
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
COSTUMES WORN BY FAIR AND FASHIONABLE PENITENTS.

taste, with cotton gowns, will be the
leather straps studded with steel, gun
metal or silver nail heads, large and
small.
SMART SLEEVES.
There is a deal of Importance in
volved at this moment in the decora-
ticn-not to say cut-of ones sleeves.
a half-dozen typical examples of what
is very up-to-date are sketched in the
wheel, and deserve a word of descrip-
ton. No. l is a pattern sanctioned by
the highest authorities, and represents
a sling top in its shoulder drapery.
From wrist up this neat arm bag is
closely corded, and that is a nice new
idea. too while the cuff of light satin
is bell-shaped. For cloth suits nearly
all the cuffs are shaped so, a tasteful
selection, and the interior of the bell is
usually lined with whatever bright
color the owner of the sleeve y seS else
where on her suit. No is a trans
parent sleeve of silk muslin. treated
with spiral ruffle, edged with dark
baby velvet ribbon, and one of the
novelties frequently adopted with such
evening sleeves is the sewing of a row
of tiny bright-ieweled buttons right
around the wrist. Occasionally the
same scheme is repeated in an arc of
larger buttons across the top of the
shoulder, or quite as quaint an idea is
that OF tying about the Wearer's wrists.
close to the hand a narrow ribbon, and
knotting it in so full a bow that the
pretty bracelet gives the appearance of
bright flower set among the falling
laces.
The fourth in the wheel is for house
gown. The shape is modified bishop, a
spangled pattern is worked on the dark
satin, and a close cuff of lace buttons
snugly just above the head. Close to
this easy dress for the arm is one of
the smartest methods for finishing the
shoulders of a ball gown. Double rows
of pearls cross the shoulder upon van
dyked band of embroidered satin, while
lower on the arm the tulle ruffles prink
out bright in spangled spots and di-
vided by spangled bar; all meant to
lend a markedly Butterfly effect
Five in the circle is another trans
parent sleeve suggested for a white
muslin dress, trimmed in black lace,
and the sixth is an idea for a wash
dress. The small top puffs are of ging-
ham, the long cylinder of embroidery.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

of our senses into such fantastic, in
congruous shapes did they distort the
straw crowns. This year the crown has
returned to its normal state, but the
brims of all straw things have gone on
a mad race after originality of form.
Some of them have large pie-shaped
pieces cut out at intervals, and the gaps
filed with tucked or gathered chiffon;
others curve in or bow out in deep
scallops. On one side of many hats
three sections of brim are set and
spread apart to contain a filling of
stemless flowers, between the straw
tips. Still more astounding are the
windmill brims. made of wedge-shaped
pieces of straw so set about the crown
as TO assume the aspect of stiff leaves
tossed in every direction.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
taste and handicraft under so common
place a name.


The same royal etiquette that forbids
Princess Victoria adopting any calling
denies. the Marchioness of LOrne, bet
ter known as the Princess Louise. from
putting her talents as a sculptor TO any
professional uses. 1t is a cruel fact,
however, that the LorneS have very
small income, and the marchiOness has
extravagant tastes In addition, she IS
a most vigorous and independent lady,
who openly Geplores her fate in having
been born a princess, and who has COM
promised with her mother and family
by ostensibly refusing to receive orders
for any work done in her studio. She
is allowed. however. to volunteer 10
contribute busts, portrait panels, bronze
has reliefs, statues, fonts, affairs, etc,
with seeming royal generosity to
churches, public buildings squares, etc,
in England or the colonies needing such
ornamentation. These she executes in
her studio in KensingtOn palace. with
more than amateur zeal and care. In
return for her kindness. thanks, en-
crossed on Illuminated parchment, are
offered in public, While quite behind the
scenes the thrifty lady is waited on by
committee, who present her with a
carved wood casket. This casket is
never opened under the eyes of the
assembled spectators. and any one is at
liberty shrewdly to guess that the con-
tents is just about the market value of
such work as the really clever prin-
cess is able to do. But whatever the
arrangement is Queen Victoria's only
artistic daughter is one of the hardest
working and least pretentious women in
the united kingdom, and young Amer
lean, studying art in Europe, and anx-
ious to see what a princess workroOm
would be like, found no difficulty in
gaining admission to her royal high
ness studio. She went on q day APP
pointed. and expected to be shown
about by a splendid and unintelligent
hunky, but to her pleased surprise the
princess greeted her at the studio door
with a hearty handshake. an apology
for her clay-stained fingers, her big
working overalls and the very slight ar
tistic value of her achievements. There
followed long talk on art and artists,
and the young American went off with
a cordial invitation to call again when
she found herself in London.
MILLICENT ARROWPOINT.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
REFLECTIONS OF A BACHELOR.

New York Press: Loves wings aren't
made for him to fly with, but for the
women to hemstitch and run through
with baby ribbon.
One Of the first signs parents have
that their girls are growing up is when
they begin to keep their bedroom doors
locked at night.
Women always cry at a wedding-the
married ones because they know how it
is themselves, and the unmarried ones
because they don't.
When a married man wants to have
some clothes mended, he makes out a
memorandum of them and leaves it
around his desk, marked private"
You can generally tell whether a girl
thinks a piece of furniture is ugly or
rot By whether she asks if it is an
ANTIQUE before she says it is too per-
fectly sweet.
Wcmsn never talk 10 each other about
their husbands without each one insin-
uating that she knows another woman
who is trying her best to hirt with
hers.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
CELEBRITIES.
Gossip About Prominent Men and
Women.

women.
OF all modern celebrities, Ibsen is the
most chary of signing his name for the
satisfaction of curiosity mongers. He is
evidently convinced that fool and his
autograph are soon parted. and his rage
was great last summer when a wealthy
autograph fiend offered him 200 gold
dollars for the two words of his name,
written under the fiend's own eye. 1t
was fortunate for this tracker of lions
that she, for it was a woman, did not
understand Ibsen's native language, as
he used some large and powerful Nor
wegian words on storming out of the
sunny hotel courtyard where the impor-
tunaue female had found and cornered
him. A scrap OF Ibsen's handwriting
now commands a high price in the
circle of autograph seekers, and since
the old gentleman divides his CORE
sDondcnce AID literary labors between
neat little American typewriter he
uses himself and clever amanuensis,
his signature is more difficult to secure
than ever. Rudyard Kipling is another
popular author who thoroughly abhors
contributing to the little blank books,
who, with their owners beset his path,
and none too gentle are the means en-
ployed to coax a signature from him.
When hurrying through Boston one day
to catch a train, guest at the hotel
whence the author was setting forth in
haste in a cab hearing who it was had
slept under the same roof with him, ran
off hatless down the street after the
vehicle. He shouted and gesticulated
and evinced such a desire to stop the
cab that IL policeman, fearing something
had gone wrong, hailed the cabby
whom Mr.. kiDling had recently tipped
for. ma king all pOSSibla enaed NafIIra liV
a halt was made, the author opened the
door to inquire the reason just as the
hatless man arrived, a fountain pen in
one hand and a little book in the other.
At sight of the familiar preparations
the policeman fell back, looking very
foolish: there were few intense words
fcm the author, the cab dashed off and
the owner of the little book went back
TO his hotel a sadder and wiser man.
The young Duchess of Marlborough
has been communicating gentle shocks
of puzzled surprise TO her noble friends
and relatives III England by running all
her informal notes and letters off on a
typewriter. For a time the very con-
ventional circle in receipt of these mis-
siy es, so neatly printed out even to the
address and signature, wondered
whether to laugh or cry, when to the
infinite relief it was found that the ex-
Empress Eugene, on account of her
failing eyesight, has adopted the type
writer wholly for that portion of her
&C rrespondence conducted by her own
hand. Added to this comforting news
was the information that the queen
can and does write very neatly on a
typewriter occasionally. consequently
the writing machine has earned dis
tinct social value in England. The one
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
TROUSSEAU APRONS FROf1 PARIS

Conspicuous among elaborate trous-
seaus and pretty wardrobes recently
brought over from Paris is most beau
tiful assortment Of aprons. These arti-
cles de luxe are made for the most part
of the richest materials. satin and silk
for morning wear, and for later in the
day embroidered lawn or mousseline de
sole. As is the case with the dress this
season, these tabliers de toilette are ex-
tremely elaborate.
For matrons they are made with a
jeweled band, with braces 10 correspond.
and e3aulettes Of lace. For debutantes
the pattern resembles more closely the
housemaid's apron, in so far as there is
a distinct upper portion covering 4 small
part of the front OF the bodice. The idea
which finds most favor is 70 have them
made OF exactly the same coloring as the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

dress with which they are worn. or else
in a violently contrasting shade.
A very charming Partisan novelty re-
Gently worn by a matron was made in
rich black satin. lined with pearl gray
satin the exact shade of the gray CASH
mere dress over which it was worn. The
apron, which reached to the hem of the
skirt was very wide at the bottom and
gradually rounded until it reached the
hin. The trimming of tucks and cream
Insertion on the costume was reproduced
on the apron. which was finished by
founce OF cream lace. fastened off on
either side at the waist with large
ieWeled buttons. These buttons CORE
spond with a Swiss belt of jeweled trim
ming.
Another of these elegant trifes worn
nv a Young woman was in turquoise blue
rnousseline de sole over a dress of cream
cashmere This apron was square at
lie foot. and the trimming consisted sole
IL of a deep fiounce of plated mousseline
de sole set into a ruche Of soft cream
lacs A bertha of folds of the blue muslin
was arranged in heart shape. so that the
elaborate bodice of the dress formed a
kind of vest
The waistband was formed of cream
colored insertion over blue and studded
with turquoise, and at the sides pointed
cascade of lace. not sewn on 10 the apron,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

doors teps-this out CT respect for his
nlaseuiinity." as they expI ess it. For
him to notice them. however by any
salutation. would be a decided breach
of etiquitte- So general is this feeling
of inferiority among the women them
selves that even little girls in a school
viii instinctively rise as soon as man
enters the room and stand before him
with eyes on the floor, as they have
seen their mothers do.
One of the greatest misfortunes that
can befan a woman in Turkey is to
have no children. The horror of bar
renness that is seen SO often in the
Bible still exists undiminished through
out Asia Minor. And next to having
no children the greatest misfortune is
TO have no sons. Armenians have been
known to beat their wives severely az
ter the birth of a daughter, and a Turk
makes TO count of his children except
the sons. The reason Cor this is partly
that the father wishes TO have the sup
port of sons in his old age
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
SMART SLEEVES.

sketch wears tidy little gown of
dark red challie, picked out in black
polka dots. and topped with a tucked
yoke Of white nainsook, edged with
embroidered frills. The boy beside her
is in finely checked blue linen, and his
little belted linen blouse has an en-
broidered collar, over which rolls a
second set of white linen revers. The
owner of the nursery Pegasus is in the
appropriate riding suit for a child in
spring. A dust brown whiDcord coat
with silver buttons, striped red and
white duck breeches, brown whipcord
leggins and pigskin shoes.
NJ. DAVIS.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
THEIR LENTEN PROGRAMME.
The Way New York Society Women
Pass the Forty DAVIS of Fasting.

Mrs. William AstOr spends the 40 days
OF penance at her hotel in Paris, her
guests being her granddaughter, Miss
Van Allen, and her daughter, Mrs.
George Haig.
Mrs. John Jacob Aston will study the
Lenten customs of the inhabitants OF
Honduras, whittier she is now speeding
aboard her husbands yacht, the Nour-
mahal.
Mrs. Abram s. Hewitt, Mrs. Theodore
b. Bronson and Miss Cottreal, who
made a Christmas gift of a beautiful
memorial pulpit to Trinity chapel. have
formed a cooking class for the senior
members of the general theological
seminary (EpiscopaD. In cap and gown
and some 80 strong, they marched over
from Chelsea square the day after Ash
Wednesday. to the New York cooking
school, where, equipped in aprons,
sleeves and white chef caps, they took
their first lesson in the domestic art
of cookery. The students are enthusi-
astic in the matter and anxious TO
learn at least the rudiments of cook
ing, which they expect to put to prac-
teal tests in the western wildS or in
China or Japan.
A smart society woman has intro
duced a novel fancy work 1t is bas-
ket making and at the end of Lent
there is to be a sale of the baskets
Ilduc ny lair fingers QUTlHS the SAA
weeks of penance and the proceeds
given to a children's hospital. Mrs.
Stuyvesant Fish, Mrs. Parish, Mrs.
Percy Pyne, Mrs. Cooper Hewitt, Miss
Louise de P. Webb and Miss Van Rem
ssaeler are interested in this new fancy
work
In England, from which this fad is
imported, a gypsy living in the vicinity
of Epping forest has been for some time
attending the houses Of certain we'll
do residents for the purpose of teach
ing the ladies the art of fancy basket
making, including the preparation and
splitting of willows, and some of the
ladies have attained such proficiency
that they turn out really charming
specimens of basket work.
Miss Helen Gould is not a member Of
the church which keeps strict account
of Lent, and her charities are so
Astounding and continual that she can
hardly need to increase them at any
season Of the year. Nevertheless, dur
ing Lent she has arranged a series of
lantern slide exhibitions at her home
for children. Woody Crest, Tarrytown,
to teach the children Bible history in
an attractive way. She never allows
her social duties to interfere with her
regular visits to her babies-''Helen'S
babies" as some one has called them
Miss Mildred Phelps Stokes, young,
accomplished and clever. and the pos
SCISSOR of a round million in her own
right, always makes some practical
plans for spending the 30 days of Lent,
to which she strictly adheres. This
year she has prepared a series of lee
lures on church history, which will be
given TO the ladies' guild of the church
of the Heavenly Rest, of which her
father is vestryman. The lectures are
given weekly at the Phelps Stokes
Madison avenue mansion, possibly in
the Louis Quinze ballroom, or in the
moorish room, where a fountain plays
in the center, and swinging lamps add
picturesqueness and a romantic gIamor
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

New York, March 1.-The briskest
sort of trading is being carried on just
now in ostrich feathers, and unless
there is failure of signs all along the
line, this will be season distinguished
Tor the length and number, the rich
quality and fire color, of the plumes
worn. Children and grown-ups alike
VIII Share these truly beautiful head
ornaments. that are not so expensive
as they might be. Our own ostrich
farms in the west send excellent feath-
ers TO the milliners. who are using
them to replace the stiff wings and the
birds.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

Wide hats of the softest straw are
fairly draped with this lovely plumage,
accompanied usually by a few roses by
way Of smart color. The brimS are
Topped or crushed back on one side,
and a soft arc of feathers, SpFinging
from a jeweled ornament placed well
in front, sweeps against the hair well
to the rear in fringy masses, to droop
almost to the shoulder behind.
The most bewitching garden party
and carriage hats, of chips and leghorn
in white and black. are exhibited, their
brims left to fall in wide flutes about
the face, big wired bows of lace erected
in front and three white or black
plumes, of amazing height, flowing
back on either side the low crown to
let their curling ends fall out like
streamers IN the rear. Beside the
ostrich plumes a great many quilts and
coque feathers are doing active service
One and all these are wide and stiff
curved and cut to resemble miniature
scimitars, dyed in rich dark colors and
closely powdered with large and small
dull gold, green, red or blue snangles
A couple of these, springing from a
high tight knot of silk on the top side of
a straw crown, have a very smart ef-
feet indeed
MILLINERY JEWELS
This is nothing new, but it must
needs be recorded that deal of tulle is
appearing, cast as a sort of cloudy veil,
over the crowns of hats close piled with
flowers. Last year this was one ex-
pertinent that found favor 1t is worth
making a note that all trimmings of
ribbons or piece silk are twisted, never
folded, about bTiIns and crowns. All
trlmminS-and. there is positively no
exception to this rule-springs up at
the side, just as high as ever we please
TO make it. Jewelled ornaments are
used with caution, though there is a
striking display of heavily jeweled
crown bands, and in place of lace hats.
in black, white and all colors, chiffon
flats are to be features of the season.
The chiffon is very elaborately puffed
and shirred on to wire frames, and
quite as often as not the back, as well
as the side brim Of 2 hat, is turned up
Sharply and broad comb of small
blossoms set there.
Last spring the weavers of hats
Obliged us to almost doubt the evidence
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

but held in place by a large turquoise
cabochon, fen almost to the hem of the
skirt.
Any young girl who is clever with her
needle and has only small allowance to
work with should direct he~ attention to
art muslins. which are very inexpensive.
The exquisite colorings of these pretty
and cheap materials are in themselves an
artistic cid to any dress Pale yellow.
made with q deep f1ounce edged with
black insertion and set into a waistband
of black satin, the cascade OF lace being
replaced by fold of the muslin, with
jet or steel button in place of the jewelad
cabochon, makes a very pretty and effec-
tive addition to the toilet at a very slight
cost.
The pockets of these dainty little af-
fairs are almost always placed on the
left-hand side, are invariably transparent
handkerchief, the most correct thing be-
Ing that the border of the handkerchief
should recall the trimming of the apron.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
LENTEN GOWNS.

In addition to the sleeves, the five new
gowns pictured deserve especial men
ton, passing as they do through the
range of favorite spring materials, in
which women are at the instant gener-
ously investing. The first figure repre-
sents a way to treat a Bingham of the
fashionable new plaid and check mix
ture. Three narrow frills stand at the
top and bottom of the deep Spanish
hounce. and the waists front opens in
a V to display a vest of white embroid-
cry. Narrow frills edge the vest. Shir-
rings supply all necessary decoration
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

look like so many peas from the same
pod.
RETURN OF CREPON.
While on the subject of gowns. it is
as we'll to announce that wool and silk
crepons are coming back to use, that
pecan suiting is one of the good light
weight twilled woods for sumner wear,
and that in the way of cotton things,
distinctly for outing wear, there is a
wide range of subjects. Linen pOpli1 in
blue and white checks is one of the
materials far and away better than The
highly lauded galatea, and then for
glowing color French duck is to be cor
daily recommended. This is a duck of
quite light weight, and it comes this
season in poppy red, prioress blue and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06
THE TURN OF LIFE

Is the most important period in a wo.
mans existence. Owing to modern
methods of living, not o. woman in a
thousand approaches this perfectly
natural change without experiencing
a train of very annoying and some
times painful symptoms
Those dreadful hot flashes, sending
the blood surging to the heart until it
seems ready to burst, and the faint
feeling that follows, sometimes with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-03-06

steak should be broiled, not fried The
onions should be cut in thin slices, fried
brown in hot bacon fat. most of the
fat poured off, layer of onions left in
the bottom of the pan, the cooked steak
put in, then a layer of onions on top,
the whole put in a hot oven for five
minutes, when it is ready to serve.
EMILY FORD.