The evening times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1902, 1898-03-04
HOW CHEFS
: 1900 MAKE SHLHD
An American Cooks Notion
of the Dainty Esculent.
Garlic a Proper Ingredient, and,
il Necessary, One Could Be
Made of Hay.

1.-THE reason why an American salad
is not as good as a French salad" said
an American cook who. by the way de-
clines to be called q, chef. lis because
you Americans look too much at the out
side of salad and too little at the in
side. Now, / could snake a salad out
Of grass, If 1t were edible grass, and
you would smack your lips over it.
though the grass might be perfectly
fasteless. l have frequently made or
dressed salad with hay and had it
pronounced excellent. and | see no rea-
son why | could not make a thistle sal
ad. may explain that the hay was
boiled and used only as a joke on a
wager. -
There is no light grassy material that
cannot be made into a salad II you I'M
derstand the dressing. That is every
thing. After a certain amount of dressing
the first taste of the vegetable disappears
and it becomes a salad; in some cases
as in very nice celery salads a confec-
lion. ......
"A parsley salad, that cheapest of all
salads in the winter season, is not
bad thing at all If the parsley is made
crisp. 1t must be cooled on ice until it
almost snaps Then il must be broken
In the tiuiest pieces and mixed with
chopped celery. This. with a very rich
mayonnaise, is more than acceptable for
a relish. In certain European countries
they serve il in egg shape Eggs are
boiled hard and the yolk scooDed out
at the end. The salad substance is then
stuffed inside and the egg made to stand
erect by cutting of the end IA la Column
bus
The trouble also with an American
salad is the fear Americans have of
mixing things up. II an American cook
uses one vegetable in a salad she thinks
she has used sufficient. With lettuce
she may use the time-honored tomato
and cucumber slices. the trio hOnored
by common consent but none too har-
monious in flavor. But if she makes a
clear lettuce salad it never occurs to
her to combine anything with it unseen.
nor does she depart from the regulation
mayOnnaise flavors.
Now | know a good chef who carries
with him a box of sixty fiavors. They are
in small bottles, labeled and pushed I'M
der leather straps like the case of "A
homeopathic physician. and these he
uses when making his supper salads. He
sisits houses where balls are to be given
and assists the kitchen chef with salad
mixing. The result of this variety can
easily be imagined. In salad making are
used onion. nasturtim, garlic, lemon. cell
cry, cinnamon and all the spices COM
mon to the salad chef but not to the
home salad maker, who sticks TO the
compound that bites too soon and 40
mustard and oil, but rarely salt and never
pepper Yet the first-class salad maker
wants all of these.
The most important ingredient i'm the
new salads is garlic This is used i'll pref
erence TO onion. which il somewhat re-
sembles Each year il may be stated
that salads change. and this year they
have a most decided garlic leaning.
"A salad is the most valuable dish one
can serve. 1t is healthful. because gen
orally minced. IL is delectable, because
nicely seasoned; and il r. fashionable"