Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1898-11-10
TIE FASHIONS IN NEW YORK
Medium-sized Hats More Popu-
lar Than Large Ones.
THE NAPOLEON" VERY DASHlNe
Coats a Marked Feature In
Dressy Gowns.
Tight-fttirr Waists. with waistcoat Fronts,
Are More Plentiful Than During the
Summer, and soine OF Them Have a De-
cidedly Coquettish Appearance.

New York, Nov. 2. -Medium- sized
hats are much more worn than large
ones, which though seen, are rather
exceptional. Exceptional too, is the
extravaganza in ostrich plumage that
sometimes appears, the entire expanse
showing a mass of waving feathers,
even ostrich feather bands being laid
over the crown and brim with com
pletion of the same on the edge. These
striking examples are in black and
worn only by wealthy persons who can
afford variety, since manifestly they
are unsuitable except for carriage wear
on full dress occasions.
,Toaues are the success of the season
and made of velvet laid in loose folds
and usually turned back on one side, are |
finished by flowers or feathers accord
ing to fancy, in the former, one immense |
NAPOLEON is a dashing hat that is |
conspicuously short at the back; ex
tends out in somewhat military style |
on either side in front and has large |
rosette placed in the centre between |
spreading wings. The 'short back
sailor hat is also much in favor and
may be worn straight on the head or
back so that the brim turns up and
there are many other varieties in
irregular, coquettish shapes, according
as the milliner has thought proper to
fold the velvet, frames below, being
often of but slight Importance. Some
birds are now seen, but fancy still
runs for the most part towards made
feathers, breast feathers however, being
more used than for many seasons.
Monotones prevail or shades of one
color, though sometimes there are
L Dc, .A.
pink may shade into purple, but violet
contrasts are unpopular. Dotted velvet
is specially stylish and dotted ribbon
as we'll.
In dressy gowns, coats are a marked
feature, usually in some rich brocade
that contrasts with the skirt and
elegant dresses show lace coats so pro-
longed as to recall the polonaise of
years ago. A charming example in
violet blue silk, has circular, lace like
designs in white, set at intervals and
these are in harmony with long coat
of heavy mesh lace. Sleeves are often
very short, being really but pretences,
yet again they may be to the elbow or
quite long or in some cases, the ma
terial reaches to the elbow and is pro-
longed to the wrist by lace or chiffon
which is in immense favor. Low necks
are generally round, but some few cut
square, give variety. Demitrains are
almost rule and the flaring flounce
around the bottom is IN marked con-
trast to extreme plainness around the
hips, in some examples, the fulness
beginning only below the placket hole.
Tailor made gowns show variety as
to cut, more in waists or jackets than
in skirts. Tight fitting waists with
waistcoat fronts are of course much
more popular now than during summer
and are made usually with a very
slight point at the back, postillion, or
having very narrow fulness below
the waist line that lined with bright
silk, has a eoqueEtish appearance.
Some are made with belts over pos
tillion backs and others show short
jackets copied after independent gar
ments or again there are leading and
very stylish gowns completed by tight
fitting, long jackets, but these are
adapted only to tall and slender figures.
Skirts nearly always have circular
fiounces and in completion to them,
the S. II. & M. bias brush edge skirt
binding may be termed an inspiration
since it shows as peculiarly all it:
own, a natural curve rounded to fit tht
dress without quicker or wrinkle any
where. Thus seemingly it is part o.
the dress fabric, SO smoothly does i
set, while affording moreover a perfec
protection and handsome finish.
Styles in furs, as inaugurated by G
g. Shayne, show noteworthy and at
tractive novelties. Capes display full
completion around the lower edge
which re-echoes the circular flounce Oh
the bottom of the skirts, but tn
fulness is only slight and thus finisl
is given that is free from heaviness
Short fur jackets with tight or loos
fronts are very jaunty and long, tight
fitting ones, truly elegant and of cours
surprising garments in material, a
the sun takes precedence of the moon
A lady who possesses q handsom
fur care or Jacket, is happy to tn
degree that fur can make her so and j
truth she has reason, since nothing
more satisfying than good fur. II
wear is perennial; it can be change
to suit chances IN style, when the sam
would be impossible in fabric, becaus
Of unsightly seams. But fur to /
satisfying, must be good; pot
quality is a WEAKNESS and though I'll
first cost may be greater, saving
subsequent expense, compensates mar
times over. For those who wis
variety or who cannot have an entil
tuI ocliSntiui noNtlbibS CDn
ID in collars and collarettes, and,
" ruffiings in light fabric for the nee
are in overwhelming favor, so Il
refrain is taken up in fur and cola
are slightly ruffled with very becomir
effect. They complete jackets or cap
and sometimes an addition of tai
gives full protection to the chest or
higher prices, come large collarett
or victorines that show with speci
elegance, long ends reaching nearly
the bottom of the dress in front. Lar
collarettes also display revers in fro
and on capes, the same are a frequent
recurring feature and may be combin
with vests. Muffs in general, are som
what reduced in size and usuaI
fancy muffs are the reverse of lare
Fur trimmings retain all their form
prestige and on handsome cloth
velvet capes or jackets, revers
borders or both of fur, give distinctio
fCecile." Satin is the regulation N
terial for wedding dresses and chiff
trimmings are rage. The veil is 81
usually of tulle and orange buds a
blossoms oftenest seen, though lilies
the valley or hyacinths are used.
Dorothy LIZ Short cutaway CO.
are usually Of brocade, yet one of Ii
over satin, would be appropriate a
very pretty. Rosalind May
Names for New Steamers.
The Merchants and Miners Ira
portation Go. have decided to ma
their two steamers now building