davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
DRESSES FOR AN
OCTOBER PROMENADE.

decorations. The sides OF the hat next
10 the hair are banked with Autumn
flowers. golden rod ana crysantne-
NUNS. The chrysanthemums are very
small, almost like asters.
The collars Of the new street dresses
are very tall and rolling; they are de-
cided Midlcis. many of them standing
higher than the ears. They set out
little from the neck and are not secur-
ed at the throat. This gives a decidedly
majestic appearance TO the wearer and
Is a beautiful addition to the costume.
The man who walks with the Autumn
woman. must not be forgotten, he. too.
has his fashions. This year they are
prettier than usual. in the morning ne
IS very English In a pair Of light trous-
ers and a double breasted frOck coat OK
navy blue. These double breasted frock
coats are also made Of gray cloth and
recently one appeared on Fifth avenue
made of dark green.
THE AUTUMN MAN.
The very same day, as though the
wearer had been previously Informed or
coming paragraphs there appeared an
article I'm one of the mems fashion pa
pers stating that the Prince OF wales
had worn a double breasted sack coat
on the occasion of his recent drive. Inc
Prince. IN his convalescence, had de-
cided to take a short ride on lana ana
his costume was a pair OF light trous-
ers. a short double breasted sack coat
of dark green cloth and a derby.
one of the witty writer's, perhaps II is
Jerome X. Jerome. says that q sack
coat with a silk hat are common In
America. but I'm England they are events.
IL is almost unnecessary 20 say that SILK
hats should never be worn with any
but the long coat, and only the d.gnihed
Prince Albert is permissible with the
silk rat unless. indeed, 1t be worn with
am Overcoat or other long garment.
There is a new coat FOR men called the
raglan This is long. I'm fact IL IS an
Overc0at. rather full in the skirt; but II
rs an informal coat. Ii is worn for
coaching and for the promenade, the
suitable hat with u is the derby
The raglan is made of dark cloth and
II IS single breasted. II can only be
cut out by the best tailors. but It is
the fashionable coat of Autumn. Men
who have several coats are ordering the
raglan. the single breasted light cloth
overcoat. tho long double breasted black
cloth overc0at of light weight and the
short black overcoat. But men who are
content with one coat are buying over
coats OF medium length. double breasted
and OF very light weight Mems coat
sleeves are somewhat padded 20 make
them very square shouldered As Wo-
mems shoulders grow smaller men 8
seem 10 grow larger.
4 womans sleeves are so modified this
wear that you scarcely notice them OK
cept for their trimmings. whereas a
mans shoulders are so square that you
wonder II he aas been IN training.
HELEN WARD.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

trimed the ends Of the scarf and above
il there were two rows OF narrow purple
mousseline de sole ruches. The collar
was high rounding Medicis trimmed
deliberately with the violet and gold
passementerie.
A dressy little collet designed for a
casino toilette was made Of apple green
mousseine de sole. 1t reached a bit be-
low the waistband and was fashioned
with a rounding point at the back. The
mousseline de sole was arranged in four
ACCORDION plated frils that decreased in
width as they neared the front OF the
collet. Another wired frill of the mousse
line served as a collar.
1t fastened with a large bow OF cream
lace with ends reaching 10 the bottom
of the collet. A buckle Of strass was
placed al the center of the bow.
Besides these ambitious long garments
there are natty little jackets that might
pass as waists for they are belted and
trimmed. These are pretty on young,
slender figures.
NINA GOODWIN.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

Illustrated By r. =. PhillIpse. Copyright
1895, for the Times.
NEW YORK, Sept 29-It IS the time
of times now for an afternoon walk.
Never is the year as beautiful as Oc-
tOber. The sun shines just warmly
enough, and the winds are temperate
20 meet the fan costumes which milady
now wears. II Easter calls for "a new
gown, October calls FOR one none the
less; and the dresses OF Autumn are
quite as beautiful and as novel AS those
OF Spring
10 may be said that whore a separate
waist is worn the waist viii De piald.
This is an almost universal rule. II ls
n. common sight 10 see plain black,
brown. green or blue skirt trimmed
only by regulation trimmings. worn
with a glazing waist of most brilliant
plaid design.
These waists are now and then made
OF plaid silk. but more often Of cloth.
FOR IL must be acknowledged that the
cloth holds its color better than silk
and can Doe worn 10 better advantage.
There IS something so fitting about
cloth dress for the street that most
women much prefer 70 TO silk
BRIGHT PLAIDS.
The cOlOrs OF these plaids are red,
blue. green. pink; end / might almost
say the coiors Of the spectrum. violet.
indigo. blue green yellow. orange and
red, for ali OF these colors are seen IN
the brilliant autumn plaids.
Plaid waists are as a rule, untrimmei'
although they may have very fancy
lapels TALL high collar is worn with
them and q brilliant neckue striped
neckties are seen with bright plaid
waists and one necktie appeared on the
street the other day OF green and black
and red stripe. worn with a waist or
green. and black and red plaid. As long
as the waist and necktie are artisuc
worn together a woman need not rear
what cOlOrs she combine for every Color
imaginable IS worked into the new Fan
checks and piaids.
well remember n talk which I had
with Denman Thompson in tho parlor
OF n Saratoga hotel four years ago. IL
was q season when women were wearing
skirts which trailed upon tho ground
and the women's societies were busy try
ing to convince the women how unsanl-
tary these skirts were
NEW SKIRTS
The writer with the actor stood IN
the doorway Of one Of the immense par
Tors Of a palace hotel. while the elegantly
dressed women passed thrcLgh oh theif
way 10 the dining room.
Look nc that skirt" exclaimed Mr..
Thompson. pointing to a long dress or
navy blue satin which swept the foor
bv half "a yard. "That IS not intended
fo~ 90 evening dress nor even house
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

The close fitting sleeves were nnisheo AT
the hand with point.
The box coats that have enjoyed
protracted season OF popularity are not
altogether In the background. though the
close fitting jackets are newer ana are
considered a trihe smarter. Even the
box coats this season boasts suspicion
OF the swallow tail cut
One that was made Of hunters green
cloth and worn with black skirt was
exceedingly chic. il fastened at the
front with three large black pearl bul-
tons and the cloth az the neck was turn
Cd back IN small square revcrs. Between
these revers az the back there was
high square wired collar a narrow
black passcmenterie trimmed The collar
and revers and covered each seam OF the
iacket The sleeves were close hitting
with a suggestion OF fare at the hands.
a REDINGOTE
a striklngly pretty rodingote that was
singularly original in form was made OF
tan whip cord. il had q straight front
but fitted close into the curves Of the
figure at the back. At the bottom IL was
cut with a rounding point, which was
less noticeable than the usual swallow
tail cut
IL was trimed around with a broad fun
circular runle that decreased in width at
the front where 10 mounted as high as
the revers Heading the ruffle there was
a bias band OF the stitched cloth. The
square revers were faced orange velvet
and ornamented with a narrow black
silk passementerie. a similar trimming
was conspicuous on the high Medicis col
lar.
The sleeves were close fitting and were
finished az the hand with point. This
garment so entirely envc!oped the gown
that there was not q vestige OF the dress
material visible
Among a lot Of long capes shown me
I noticed such an unusual one Of tan
whip cord 10 was cut with a rounding
point at the back that reached 10 within
twelve inches of the bottom OF the gown.
II was trimmed around with three mar
row circular frlls Of the material that
mounted I'D 10 tho collar az the front
where they decreased very much I'm
width. over this there was another
shorter cape of dull orange velvet shaped
like the under cape.
II was covered all over with striking
patterns IN black lace heavily corded
with a stout black silk cord.The velvet
continued into a high straight collar that
was mounted by a circular frill Of the
cloth. The inner side of the frill was
faced with the dull orange velvet
The whole garment was lined through
out with a soft quality of changeabie
taffeta in orange and silver.
NEW.
Another Of these long pointed capes
was made OF violet cloth Of rather "A
deep shade. II was trimmed around with
a circular ruffle OF the same headed
with appliques OF violet and silt passo
menterio. 4 narrow drapea scarf Of soft
surah silk i'm a paler shade of violet was
draped around the shoulder line.
II was knotted az the front with short
loops and ends reaching nearly 10 the
bottom of the gown. 4 deep purple fringe
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

plain was built of army blue cloth. III
was close fitting and hooked In an IN
visible way at the front, where II was
trimmed with plain narrow revers. The
basques that were rather long were cut
with a rounded point at the back. A
broad belt of the same cloth stitched
heavily fastened at the front with a
square white pearl buckle. The collar
was high band mounted by pointed,
faring collar that reached only TO the
sides Of the band. The sleeves were
ordinary up to date coat sleeves, finished
with a point at the bottom. There twas "A
strap" finish on all the edges OF the
jacket
A DRESSER jacket fashioned on the same
lines was of light tan cloth.It was close
fitting and fastened invisiby at the front,
where there was a narrow vest OF the
cloth inserted. The short square Tevers
were trimmed I'm a sort Of rocco design
of violet velvet The velvet was APP
plqued in the middle Of the revcrs and
surrounded by a trimming of narrow
violet passementerie and violet clouX. A
facing of the violet velveh-trimmed the
naring collar that was mounted at the
top of a tan straight band.
The edges of the jacket and belt were
trimmed with the violet passementerie.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
CAPTURE OF Mr.. DAVIS.
Mr.. Davis Gives a True Account Of the
Historic Event

Judge james b. Bradwql possesses a
portion Of the shawl worn by JEFFERSON
Davis when he surrendered.
Just "a piece OF soft black cloth. thick
and warm a fragment or little shoulder
shawl that Mrs. Davis mother used 20
Wear. and was utilized in completing the
generals disguise
10 was probably the only article on exc
hibition M the sanitary fair that the pub
lie never saw. one Of the features Of the
art and display department was Side
show whore a lfe-sZed wax figure OF the
great southern leader was exhibited. Do
was a remarkable BIT Of work. having
been modelled I'm Paris by O. famous artist
As the fair was held at the close Of the
war for the benefit Of soldiers naturally
the hoopskrt story was the topic Of the
hour To add TO the popularity OF the
wax gentleman. he was rugged up in "a
hoOpskirt If the most famboyant proper
tons. over which was worn n wrapper
Inside Of this was sewn the historic bit
OF cloth contributed by Judge Bradweu
who was chairman u the department and
also served as Snowman. Invariab bly,
when reaching this attraction he would
begin impressively:
Ladies and gentlemen this Is an exact
reproduction of the great Southern Lead
en- and 7 pledge you on my honor that
he is wearing portion OF the clothing he
had on when captured. but dellcacy pre-
vents my designating the article.'
speech the good Judge ever made for IN
the inevitable hilarity which these re-
marks provoked the world and his wife
firmly believed that he referred 20 the
skirt OF wire and tape.
Among the visitors one day was Mrs.
Davis former scamstress. who readily
recognized the wrapper as one she made
for her mistress. 4 signed statement 10
this effect was pinned 20 the dress. which
added 20 the furOre. People hocked 10
see II. and az the close Of the fair the
strong box contained several thousand
dollars as an evidence Of the popularity
Of this special attraction.
Authentic accounts Of Mr. Davis cap
ture have been f0isted on the public ever
since. but there was one spectator who
witnessed the scene from the start to
The one silent tongue was wOmans n
tongue that for centuries has been cred
tied with bahbling I'm season and out.
But recently en- response to-an inquiry
from an hon0red friend Mrs Davis for
the first time told the story Of the cap
ture.
1--WE were in one tent together when
the warning message came. Tho mo-
ment was an awful one-death IS terri
bic. but it's frightful 20 face captivity and
dishonOr After a moment Of intense agi-
taNon lTr Davis said: Nv duty is with
tho army md 7 must escapeH
" 'Hut how. ! gasQed. He stood ire
soiste There was no chance 70 hide in
that little white tent, no hope OF escape
outside % II. There were two raglans
lying on a chair, one Of them belonging
10 him and the other 70 me. You know
they are not unlike coarse old-fashioned
waterproof extending from throat 10
ankle n wee the or'r POSSIBLE disg'f'eH
'h- uians Afforded -y- snre'" - ~"- 60
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

dress; II IS a street dress. and IL you
will notice il is covered with dust iin-
ger deep from the hem. Mark my
words, that fashion viii not last long.
Bustles went out because they were ire
rational, SO Will the long skirts.
"I like natural things" continued he.
chat IS the secret of my playing-it is
natural. Look at the skirts" pointing
10 others that were sweeping into the
room. also dust covered. "They gather
all the filth of the streets; they cannot
be fashionable long
/ thought Of the words Of the veteran
actor and philosopher the following sea-
son when the skirts We're cut off, and
were barely allowed 20 touch the street.
and I wondered III women were convinced
as he said they We're. OF the irrational
qualities of the lone trailing costume
But ! note alas. that the long skirt IS
in again. The skirt milady wears GER
taiuly does sweep the street IL does not
train by a foot as it did four years ago,
but it IS long enough TO gather all the
dust Of the pavemcuts and the mud OF
the crossings.
CARRIAGE SKIRTS.
Paris modistes. when taxed upon the
subject OF setting the fashions by dis
playing long skirts IN their windows
defended themselves by saying that
these long skirts are meant only for
carriage costumes. They add that an
their costumers and patrons are car
riage people and therefore n is tn good
taste fOr them % display carriage
dresses in The windows
But" asked the customer 70 whom
this was explained what do you adj
wise for the rest of the worid2'
81 advise the short skirt said the
NHa.Ha. n.
No woman Of taste viii ever consent 10
sweep the street with her dress"
Many OF the new dresses. however, do
certainly sweep the street" They are
so long that they touch all the way
around and, mOre's the pity a very nice
expensive trimming surrounds the foot.
a NEW DRESS.
I saw one dress which was certainly
in advance OF the season. although 70
was very lovely II was worn on one
Of the frosty days OF September. It's
material was a very light broadcloth.
almost lieht enough TO be called ladies'
cloth. It's color was culrassier blue. II
was made I'm pol0naise shape with the
front slit almost % the waist Around
the border there was a broad band OF
/ steel gray silk which combined very
prettiy with the blue. The rest OF
the polonaise was trimmed in the same
way. with bands OF the steel gray six
reaching almost 20 the waist.
The poionaise was worn over n skirt
of cuirass.er blue silk trimmed al the
bottom WIKI a double ruching OF the
silk. The edges OF the ruching were
frilled until the effect was that OF a gi-
gantic roll of silk with frilled edges.
/ note that the walking hat is large.
II Il be felt hat Il is tipped a little
over The face END q little down IN the
sack end raised on each side. II -
mobilization o. the English walking hat,
but 70 Il not worn as FAR over the face as
in the Spring.
WALKING HATS.
The hat Is trimmed with bird Of Para
DISC plumes IL the wearer can anord
these plumes, hut n not. II Is trimmed
with lunches o. sg--cs OF other Autumn
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

Harki TITS the sound Of the drum
And the voice Of the nugle clear,
The onward march OF the tramplng rect
And the ring OF that mighty cheer.
The distant notes OF the band.
As the echoes fv through the air:
The gallant forms of our honOred brave,
The memory OF those not there.
We see our colors afar
Firmly borne by a stalwart hand;
on. on they come with the nation nag.
The safeguards OF libcrty's landi
Nearer and nearer they come
While our loving hearts beat with pride.
Some ranks are thin as they pass along.
Brave comrades We miss from their
side.
Listeni There's softer drum
And the call Of a hugIe clear
The forward march of those steady feet
And the ring Of that heavenly cheer
Tho distant notes or their band
AS soft echoes float through The air;
The gallant forms OF our unseen brave
I'm white shining armor are there.
With cleaning banners so bright
Borne aloft by martyrs hand s
on. on they come with tho Red and Blue,
our heroes from the spiril-idnd.
Nearer and nearer they come.
with laIrcls they've rocr0ssed tho tide;
Filling the ranks as they pass along
with the boys they march side oy side.
The ringing tones ~ the band
And the RON of that softer drum;
Sweet silver echoes above the ring,
As in full solid ranks they come.
Their banners wave IN tho breeze.
The white boa the lines with tho brown
As tho buclcs sound the forward call
Gods pure heavenly light shines down.
Not there in the garments of earth,
No not there 20 our mortal cro.
But silently there those unseen forms
I'm bright shining arm0r pass by
III. T. BARNEY.
35i Boylston street. Boston. Mass.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
In Dangerous Company.

The lamb hope YOU don't mean 70
cat me- I'm 80 sorry l didn't take
mammals advicei
The Bear-What was that. my young
friend?
The Lamb-She told mo 10 associate eX-
clusIvcly with NegetarIans.-puck.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
Making the Best of IL.

ct is too bad that we had 10 leave"
said Eve. after the expulsion.
YES" said Adam. who was moro or
less OF a philosopher "Stu. we can't
tell what sort Of a place Eden would have
been in winter. Puck.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
A Continental View,

"Fightins hot business" said Willie,
as he read about the regiments. First
thing they got peppered at by the enemy,
an then they GOT mustard out by their
own government. '-Ilarper's Bazaar.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

Miss Innit-Why do women always cry
az p wedding mammal
Mrs. lnnit-The married ones cry my
child. because they know how 10 IS them
selves. and the unmarried ones because
they don t-Puck.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
MOST CORRECT
WRAP FOR FALL.
The Goodwin Sisters Describe Some
Charming Autumn Styles.
THE QUAINT SHOULDER CAPES.
Tbcy Are Worn over Long Circulars
10 Look Like Trimmin2-Smar',
Made Girls 80 A Pretty
Rcdingote-Ncw Jackets.

PARIS. oct. 3o.--Thc first fan Jackets
brought out by the cool september after
Moons have almost saucy air OF chlc
The smartost among them SAVIOR very
much 81 the masculine swallow tail
coat" But OF course the feminine YER
sion OF the swallow tail coat boasts no,
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02
The Return OF Our BOYS in Brown.

Harki IT'S the sound of the drum
And the voice Of the nugle clear;
The onward march OF the trampng feet
And the ring of that mighty cheer.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

The hat Is trimmed with bird OF Para
DISC plumes IL the wearer can AFFORD
these plumes. hut n not. II is trimmed
with lunches O.. sr@rcs OF other Autumn
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

Firmly borne hy a stalwart hand;
on. on they come with the nations hag,
The safeguards OF libcrtys land.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

Nearer and nearer they come,
While our loving hearts beat with pride
Some ranks are thin as they pass along
Brave comrades we miss from tnci
side.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1898-10-02

The distant notes or me han1
As the echoes fly through the air;
The gallant forms of our honored brave
The memory OF those not there.
Worcester morning daily spy., 1898-02-22

The United States government is
keeping up its reputation for making
precedents in international law. One
has already been established by the
agreement with Spain as to Jurisdiction
over the wreck of the Maine, and if
there should be evidence of outside
agency in the destruction of that vessel,
it is likely that another would be made
in the demand for reparation and in
demnity. Our government insisted
that, as the Maine while adoat would
be recognized by all nations as extra
territorial" that is to say, as beyond
the jurisdiction of the local government,
in whatever port the vessel might be,
she was still to be so regarded, even
after the wreck Therefore, only
United States authorities had the right
to board the wreck to make examina-
ton, either within or without. At the
same time 1t was conceded that, mas
much as the wreck may constitute a
menace to navigation in Havana tar-
Dor, and as the vessel was destroyed
under circumstances that might be con-
sidered suspicious, the Spanish govern
ment should be allowed every opportu-
nifty to make such examination as
| seemed to it desirable. though the two
examinations will be independent and
not concurrent. AS to the question of
indemnity, it is contended that the in
jured nation would have the same
claims as would lie in case an assault
had been made Upon its consul or min
lister, or upon the property that was
within consulate or legation jurisdic-
| ton. The claims, in such case as this,
however, rest upon a pure hypothesis,
and that hypothesis remains to be
proved by the divers and the official in
vestigation. But whether the disaster
was the result of malice or of negligence
on the part OF the local authorities, a
claim for indemnity might properly be
| 6Iad
Worcester morning daily spy., 1898-02-22

The New York dinner to Attorney
General Griggs that was to cost $100 a
plate, cost nearer $40" Probably a
somewhat similar discount in price
should have been made for the famous
gold" dinner that was given to Presi-
dent Mckinley at the Waldorf-Astoria.
1t takes a good, strong man, with a
clear conscience and a well-regulated
digestion, to eat up 800 plate, and
none of those who howled about that
dinner, give the president credit for pos
sessing any of these desirable qualifiea-
Worcester morning daily spy., 1898-02-22

Now Lieut.. Sobral Cor commander as
he says he should be called protests
that he was misquoted, and that he did
not say the discipline in the United
States navy was notoriously lax, and
that this would account for the disaster
to the Maine. The reporter, however,
says the Spaniard is suffering from a
lapse of memory. AT Madrid and Wash
ington, moreover, it is announced that
Sabral has not been military attache
Of the Spanish legation since January
"a, though owing to the excitement Of
the past month, his retirement had not
been certified to the state department.
Commander Sobral is technically right
in saying that even II the Maine were
blown up by some Spanish or Cuban fa-
matte, the fact would not constitute a
cause of war. But how about a refusal
of indemnity?