The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1898-03-20

New York. March Choking the shops
over and interviewing the dressmakers
Will only serve 10 strengthen the convic-
ton that this season Is to become IA
nous for its laces Hats as well as gowns,
parasols and petticoats have not escaped
the contagion. and il is a cheering as
surance TO give that never have the iTni-
tation weaves been rs beautiful and as
successful as this year Ecru guiDures,
imitation heavy bruges and the costly
Russian lace had the way in trimming
Summer wool and silk fabrics, while
clear linen point, mechlin and all the
grades Of lierre have assumed the duty
OF caruishing our muslin gowns. Point
de Paris point d'esprit and antique val
.onciennes are considered the trimmings
par excellence for underwear and yellow
cherry and creamy Maltese are certainly
not lacking in purchasers. This revival
Of interest in lace is shown by the unlim-
tied numbers Of net dresses we are in
vited TO wear, every one, whether black
or white, deliberately treated with lace
effects
There is nothing that viii so clearly
demonstrate your claims to up-to-date-
ness in matters Of dress as the owning
This Spring Of at least one net dress
over a colored silk. The net ought to
be black. OF the coarsest silk mesh. and
rather wirv, but deliberately interviewer
with a heavy black silk thread in elabo-
rate lace designs. AS the net, all
shaped and decorated in . perfect skirt
pattern, is made up for sale, the com
position Of the dress itself is not diff
cult. one needs only TO buy, and have
the dressmaker prepare, the under silk
slip OF taffeta, the color Of which pre-
ferably should be strong and clear.
Upon this the already shaped and seam
less net oyerdress is placed and the re-
suit is an admirable gown for all dressy
occasions. 1t is possible to buy wool
net skirts similarly arranged for com
bination with coIored silk foundations,
or complete shaped skirts Of black gui-
pure in wool or silk, treated with chenille
or black sequins.
With every skirt of this type is sold
enough figured net, in the piece, TO form
the body necessary, and If one wishes
10 touch the crest Of fashion there are
purchasable the most lovely shaped over
dresses Of black chiffon or stout black
tulle. exouisitely decorated with designs
in black spangIes. Such a skirt can be
applied 10 an underdress of any color and
the effect is a gown Of wonderful mag
nifcence for We seem only just beginning
TO learn the true uses Of spangles. Since
the Spring stock has everywhere been
opened. spangled trimmings have come
promptly TO the fore as the most promi-
nent feature Of the season. The black or
colored sequins are usually laid down on
a foundation of delicate net or stitched
chiffon and with great artistic taste the
shining scales are arranged in the chro-
matte range Of colors and in patterns that
fairly caress the eye.
Thrifty women need not fear that all
this loneliness is beyond their grasp for
with the larger output Of spangled goods
the prices have altered agreeably and IL
IS possible 10 have a lovely evening dress
glittering with black sequins over pet
ticoat Of cerise and silver taffeta, and
have done no violence to ones purse at
the same time. 1t is true, moreover that
numbers Of women do their own spang-
ling. That is the shrewd ones buy and
make up a black chiffon skirt, and taking
this TO an art shop, have il stamped about
the bottom in an outstanding decoration
Of flowers. with q trail of birds across
the fulness Of the petticoat. Buying their
own spangles, they then rapidly and deft-
IL apply them by hand and the conse-
ouence is a flashing costume that has not
been costly and is rather more likely TO
stand long wear than an expensive shop
bought copy
Equipped for every occasion, and
armed for any conquest Is she who, no
matter how simply gowned, wears an
abundance Of orthodox decoration at
inn goo on Rasz CO 4rFg
and collars, rUffs and jabots have null
tiplied beyond all reckoning, and lend
themselves TO such amazing variations
that they deserve serious consideration
With few exceptions their materials
are chiffon and lace, the chiffon prettily
coIored in some pale tint and the lace
applied on the ends is apt TO be yellow
cherry, OF, quite as pretty and fashiona-
bic the faint yellow Maltese. Now, it is
q matter Of remark that no self-re-
spectiug woman wears scarf, or a
decorative collar or bow without nest
ling somewhere among its folds a
bright jeweled pin. Those whose cask-
cts are supplied by rich husbands wear
big bright brooches, sapphires, tur-
,.uoises or emeralds set about with
diamonds or pearls, while less fortunate
sisters maks as fine show with small
scarfpins set IN all imaginable patterns
and cOIors.
The neck scarf proper when made Of
net chiffon or liberty silk, is measured
long enough TO wind twice about the
throat and tie IN big front bow.
The larger the bow the better pleased
S. its wearer, and now, IL order 10
make the best show Of the expensive
lace ends, they are wired delicately and
stand OUT like misplaced wings, bright
and high IN place Of the wired bow q
great many adopt the crisp taffeta
Czarita bow. il is a stock Of gay thin
six. with TWO accordioH-plailed fans OF
the same stuff unfurIed 10 either side,
usually 81 a jeweled clasp or pin. Some
Of these plated fans are made Of col
ored satin, speckled with spanEles or
white satin, treated with wee pufings
of black chiffon.
A variation on the above IS the most
recent creation in rufs, which by the
way any woman can ineXpeusively
make for herself. On wide ribbon q
deep shell ruche Of silk muslin or taffeta
IS gathered, and in between the scall0p.
Of The ruche are set clusters Of tho
fragile tinted silk rose petals one car
buy by the yard IT any shop. But what
ever the device used. our object now j.
10 frame the lower half OF the face IL
fun Fittings, and no turn Of fashion Il
so advantageous and becoming 10 won
en- II All ages. Yet in addition 10 IN.
fluffy odds and ends applied 10 tn,
throat the dresmazers, for lack o.
some newer notion. continue 10 finish ~
the necks Of gowns with Toby frills an,
wired Medici collars At the back.
Th7l latest Suring lamentations from