Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-10-01
FASHION LETTER

reach the waist, for ming a vest A narrow
ruffte Of Grape edges the yoke and the dou-
BILE epaulettes on the shoulders.
Cloths In New Colors.
Tailor gowns other than black appear
| both in the striking colors which continue
| to be such feature of dressmaking, and
| in the soft shadowy tones of late so little
| seen. A blush gray called pewter and
| pinkish gray known as 'Greuze" have been
| taken into favor, and are seen combined
with white or pink, or with the more bril-
| liant tones of burnt orange, canary, GRIM
son. plum color or deep petunia.
The unlined tailor skirts now in vogue
are lighter than those of past years, but
the gain is partly offset by the heavy silk
facing lecessary to give the flare. The
street-sweeping length is maintained by
some drcssmakers, with its effect enhanced
by athree-quarter-length coat. which is it
self trimmed with shaped f1ounce; but the
skirt that finds most favor, except for GER
emonous occasions, is gracefully slooed
affair just touching the ground behind and
not at all in front or at the SIDES. Sucn
skirt is at its best when fitting tightly to
the hips, and thence broadening gradually.
1t may well be crossed on the left hip, be
seamless, and be trimmed with founce
wide at the back but sloDing to not more
than an inch and a half in front With this
skirt coat rather narrow In front and with
a deep basque at the back Is in harmony.
If such a dress be built of one Of the new
cloths in solid color. it will be sufficiently
trimmed with machine stitching and a
fancy vest of bright plaid or of white gros
grain.
Silk and Wool Novelties.
Lace effects are woven into many of the
silk and wool novelties. and the fashion
which prevailed in the summer of emboss-
ing lace figures on muslins has been car
ried forward into winter dress, things be-
ing changed which must be changed. A
beautiful dress of national blue cloth has
its skirt circed with three rows of black
Chantilly, while large Chantilly figures are
scattered irregularly between, upon and
above the lace bands. The bodice has soft
velvet folds coming from the shoulders and
meeting in knot on the bosom. Converg-
ing to this knot from the sides of the bod
ice and from the waist are set two rows
of Chantily like those upon the skirt,
while above and on the sleeves are lace
figures. A picture hat with long black
ostrich plumes is the appropriate accom-
paniment.
The passion for gingerbread work" in
skirt decorations seems one day to be on the
decline, the next to become more rampant
than before. The woman who sees neither
Utility nor beauty in dresses tortured with
scraps and Scallops Of lace here, ruches of
chiffon there, pleatings of silk somewhere
else. nor in frills and founCes. Dufs and
shirrings galore, with a wilderness of rib
bons puckered, frizzed and zgzagged till
the sight Of them makes ore giddy, may
take what comfort she can from the prob
ability that in the near future beautiful
materials will not be sashed so reckessly
to make small, fussy, ineffective trimmings.
Simpler and more graceful draDery effects
are seen on the best gowns.
Neckwenr Selections.
Aside from gingerbread" the chief dan
ger at present to the inartistic woman
arises from frilly neckwear. The chiffon
or lace boa is the prettiest ornament pos
sbIe for the woman to whom it is at all
pretty. But large expanding collarettes
or fichus and immense ruches make short,
stout women look like bisons. Under these
circumstances it is one of the little irones
of fate that such women strenuously crave
these things.
Three quarter-length English coats ap-
pear among the outdoor garments, fasten-
ed usually ct one side with two rows of
military buttons. Very striking Louis XVI
coats are cut with open fronts. showing a
vest of silk or silk waist with a lace
jabot. Capes are not especially numerous
hut picturesque affairs in red broadcioth
or old blue have been seen; some Of them
with plastron fronts and collar and epaul-
cites of black MORE Driving capes are
made OF military blue broadcloth.