The San Francisco call., 1898-08-07

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 ;H~: M mer, for the summer woman =: .'. merely exists during the morn ': : $ :: :0 ing and the greater part of the
 - .+.'.: afternoon she wears a bicycle
 .oress,, which is succeeded by a neglige iIg..the late afternoon. It is only when .. <candles are lighted and the ball room '~ lamps. gleam under their subdued silk = sha?leS that she comes out respIendent, : :: and. then she wears some of the ruffled :: crea tbQns' which have made the summer :. IRolrTEan famous in song and story. . I'' There never were so many handsome = summer fabrics as can be found this .. %ear. Their novelty is shown in many , dtttcrerft ways. I saw a waist last even ing m the seaside pavilion of a summer
 .res9rt: which looked as though it were a :. ;:Goarof arms. It was made of pearl gray :: "ta ffetai. covered from neck to belt with
 snlaf: cut. steel beads. These, the WeaTer
 :tord me; had been sewed on laboriOusly with her own hands. She had made : fancX. needlewOrk Of it and had employed :heE::1esure. hours since the holidays in :: gattlnS up this waist. It was br ght < ieiaesl 10 dazzling brilliancy and as she
 Ca<.<e eui. the mere motion of her body : co used. the steel to send out bright flashes = across the Tadiantly lighted pavilion : :AnQtheE- gown attracted attention in ; "qt? re: as novel a way. Steel beads are
 aoTqt' but, the manner of disposing of them in rhe case which l saw, really was new
 - . .&T:d< was made of steel blue silk, or 1t
 'Hlight have been thin poplin, for the two ,: run together so closely that 1t is difficult e-*tEl +distlnguish them.
 .. =; Motre. velour which looks exactly like .. .wateEed- silk, may have linen back, and :. a poplIn which is supposed to be part
 ' linen may be entirely backed with shiny '.:. Ih!s dress of steel colored silk was pro- :" F4Seiy. ornaneHted with round steel beads, " ySfiCE were distributed like sunbursts all
 over the gown. The beads varied in size like diamonds in a star and were put on <NNilT the large ones in the center. Grad -uaIly they pointed toward the erds. The : Ii.ys of. each sunburst might have been -. fQli inches in length.
 ., This dress was extremely artistic and
 well deserved the attention which 1t re- .: ceived;
 .3. T was somewhat surprised to see a
 widow who was wearing heavy mourning
 :dressed in q gown of plain white satin. IT had a dull finish rather than shin
 ing. brilliancy. The fact that it was satin would have debarred 1t, years ago. from : .InOGrniRg wear. I spoke to q lady mod ,: iste. about this and she said that satin was worn a great deal even in deep
 mournirg, its lusteriess qualities being aGEnired
 .' This young widow, who was receiving :. .coDsiderable attention at one of our sum :.Trer resorts, was dressed in a dead white, :: the dullest l ever saw. Her dress was :; full around the foot with a long. narrow :. court: train in the back. The train had
 its. origin a the waist line and fell about a. ward upon the ground. An immense hIlllE "SdllI SdSu was fastened between : the shoulders and the ends, which con- sisted of full width of double satin, l :. .fall nearly to the end of the train. :. She. wore black suede slippers and | : stockings beaded with dull black jet Her | 2: gloves were of black suede and she car |
 rfed white fan embroidered in black | '' satin figures. Her corsage was bunch of i black velvet loops and flowers and around | :. her waist was a black satin belt. This . ingenious combination of black and white was very shCwy and decidedly French
 II q Ha T~ill ant 1aaIy
 and white plaids which one often sees :: ig.. Hlourning- The plain effect was re- ::.In2arkably m heightened by big white . rysanthemum, which nestled in her rgAstenlng black psyche knot.
 ., They are making sleeves of watered ..rnaterials. The moire velour referred to ; .ccInes at 50 cents a yard in all colors and " snakes very pretty sleeves. There Is q : suRstance to this material which Is dur "a ble" for those who wear heavy sleeves r
 or. Fa:ther, substantial sleeves. All sorts
 Of: crinkled and watered silks are used i for sleeves, and 1t is not an uncommon
 sight to see q bodice of plain silk or :: satin: or even cloth with these crtnkled :' 9T. .5vatered novelty sleeves.
 ;Skirts are largely trimmed with accor- .: 2son paited rufles which vary in depth. :: They are fashionable made in any width, :cend You see them a the dances all the Way from two inches to two feet wide.
 A very pretty way to finish ruftie is
 -WltA bands of velvet. This may be twist .. ed so as 10 make a velvet roll The roll :2> Itery nice finish
 saw dress of pale pink null dain- :: tlfy combined with velvet. The sleeves
 of this dress were of crinkled material
 and the waist and skirt. were of null over . a. coored foundation The skirt was trimmed with two rufles of null. one :. he4ng much narrower than the other At
 'the head of each ruffie was a big heavy : roll of magenta velvet. which was crush ed So as to form multitudinous fold
 The. waist had a band of the same vel :yet:'across the neck and marrow belt of : the same caught with dull. gold buckle.
 ::Itf quite the fad to wear natural flow
 CTS. to match the embroidered flowers " upon the waist. This dress of pink mull and magenta velvet was embroidered -up0n- the waist with long narrow chrys-
 'aRthenum petals in pale yellow The : waist. was slit to o,s,2 show v, a vest of pink :*C 9ina silk The emproidered leaves ex-
 side of the vest, and they Were set off
 with: tiny tracing of most delicate green leaves.
 = The natural flowers worn by this vo,Inp = .W0man were supposed 10 be chrvsanthe7 : :Illums, but as the chrysanthemum is strictly 2 winter flower, they were china grow in grandmother's garden These