davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
SILK ~PETTICoATS.
They Are an Absolute Necessity to Women
and Arc Elaborate and Costly.

They Are an Absolute Necessity to Women
and Arc Elaborate and Costly.
The rustic Of silk petticoats is very soothing
to feminine ears. Indeed. there is o ~fascina-
tion about their swish. swish and frou-frou
that charms even the most case-hardened
hater If the petticoated sisterhood. Their very
sound imparts an element OF completeness to
woman's toilet. The time was when the
silk p~ettlcoat was considered q luxury; now
1t Is an absolute necessity. and a very ex-
pensive one. too. A plain skirt decorated
with one or perhaps two hounces with corded
or pinked edges is a him OF the past. for the
modern model is elaborate and perfect as to
cut and 1T.
Prevailing styles in dress skirts always in
fluence the fashion in pett.coats directly.
and now that skirts are made, to cllng In eel
like fashion to the knees and to fare out most
~extravagantly from there down. petticoats
are cut on the same plan.1 The latest ut with
absolute smoothness at the top and are de-
void of gathers or pleats in the back. This
necessitates having the opening on ono side
or we'll toward the front. All the cores are
shaped. and that in front Is marvellously mar
row, An extra gradu9tsd 1onnce. higher, IN
| give the desired flare, and also to add Hum
| ness about the feet. for the hem Of this founce
| with a tiny full rufle or rose ruching,
Plain giac6 in all the beautiful new shades
has about ousted changeable taffeta for full
dress wear. In fact, the latter is considered
very delicate shades that can only be OBJ
tanned by blending two tones. Even in these
| white is usually the foundation. Plaid and
striped silks and those In broken checks are
made into handsome skirts 10 he worn with
plain tailor- made gowns, but are considered
bad form with elaborate cloth or silk dresses.
vivid green and purple, magenta and violet. aud
! scarlet and yellow being some of the com
| binations noted.
| shades OF coral. rich lavender. purple and
bright green are taking the lead. An eSqui-
site p~etticoato OF coral silk has a eirc9lar-shaped
aoapS s,t 5HPPR iaS az, SP In 11,i ME- 6 69 Eli IhIss II GOV;
with vertical tucking in groups of seven. aud
edged with gray and black lace applique.
| Shocking In Vandyke points Is introduced
on many of the deep accordion pleated ruff
petticoat model Is TO be found that does not
call for lace motifs. put on separately or gar
| land fashion. or for lace Insertions which are
often set In on the foundation. bayadere style,
down to the point OF attaching the iounce.
A very elaborate design calls for three pointed
another. Each founce f. edged with a tiny
plnked rose ruching, and this also outlines the
attached founce. Gathered ,hounces are FIRE:
quently made . more faneitul by means OF
cross tucks.
orally trimmed with folds and ~festoons OF chit
and delicate pinks. blues and yellows are best
for full-dress wear. though by all means one
must be guided by tho color of the gown worn.
Elaboratenesa and extravaganza are the chief
characteristic OF all silk skirts.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
4 TASTE OF SHRIMP.

The Delicacy That IL O~ocasionally Fed -
All the FisheS in tho Aquarium.
Most all 1shes like shrimps. and. at the
Aquarium. shrimps are used more or less a.
food for the fish that most require them or that
thrive best on them. Occasionally. however.
all the fishes that like them are pretty sure to
get q taste of shrimp. 1t livens them up and
does them good.
Now and then shrimp are fed to the ffshes In
the big. pools on the floor OF the Aquarium.
The shrimp are thrown In. a handful AZ q time,
assemble to eat them. The shrimp are likely
to attract the two or three blackish in the pool.
demeanor. keep the bottom and seeming ID
times to stand on their head. pick VI whatevou
shrimp may sink far enough.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

and graceful garment. Matinees Of this nature
are not nearly 30 useful. however. as the Geisha
dressing sack Illustrated. This is made OF fine
figured French flannel in delicate pinks and
tans, and is lined with pale pink India silk.
Another good model Is the last shown. This Is
a matinee Of white albatross with a square. hori-
zontally tucked yoke back and front. Heavy
lace Of the shade known as age yellow lmost
hides each tuck. The sleeves and skirt are
tucked vertically. q style most becoming to
stout figures, BY the way. very desirable night
dresses for steamer or sleepinG-car wear are
made OF albatross In all colors. and fine lannel
gowns made after the most approved styles.
except not quite 30 elaborate as to trimming.
are considered desirable.
There are women who cannot indulge in the
luxury Of such lingerie as has been described.
not on account Of a limited income. but be-
cause Of physical weakness which necessitates
the wearing Of woollen underGarmentA, For
such there are no end Of dainty combination
suits in all wool or wool and silk. They are
made considerably thinner at the waist than
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
YHR NEW LINGERIE.
Dainty, Fluffy Novelties That
Are Full of Grace.
Elaborate Decorations Of EmbrOi.
derry and Laces Of Many Kinds. {.

4 Rtnso IL Easlion That FasciBatgs and
IntsreSts All WomRnkind-NiahtgOwns
Gored snd Trained and Trimmed with
OostIy Materials Tho Fiohu Eject .
Heaturs-AInslin PettieOats Cat After the
RaftsEns - the LaAsst Dress RhtFtS-In-
PsSsnnt Part Played by ~ COrSoo C0vOE
--Nsv RIanneI Underwear for women.
The vOuaan has yet to b born who has note
Badness for dainty. fresh. beautiful lingerie.
und II 10 therefore natural that this phase Of
fashion hould interest and iRseinato ell
V~omankind. A woman's underclothinG II
moro q part Of her. IL more truly indicative Of
her real nature. than all the nno gowns that
shomay have in her wardrobe. ttSlla vhotheF
Gho has innate. refined taste. for no matter
hOv plAin ones niahtdressos N potttooatB
nay b. u 10 always pussih,o to have them
dainty.
A philosopher has said that what II best IN
eaaa kind b an inde1 Of what should b the
avufage Of that thing. FashiOn seemo TO have
0pp,ied this bit OF wisdom to the new lingerie.
HsT what ere considered very simple. modest
garments are really very beautiful - 10 d.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

q ribbon run through a narrow belt
Of beading. Two full frills Of embroidery set
on with three rows Of beading finish the round
baby neck. and the sleeves are formed OF finely
plated embroidery. This style In exceedingly
0iFltsh M becoming to . wearer with \ plump.
youthful neck and arms This season the
shoRt-waisted effect is much sought In night
drcssea. and laees and ombroideries are In
serted bayadere fashion, Bayadere tucking
IL used with good effect OF undeFESrments.
and Qultes wide space Is left between the
tuckS. The last gown shown is known as tho
Josephine. and the entire short waist and
pulled sleeves are built Of bayadere lace inser-
lions. QUAINT short fehu finishes the slight
~ low neck. This garment does not belong to
0Set but IL to be obtained separately.
For . time the chemise passed almost COM
pist0ly out Of every woman's list Of apparel.
Those VhO chung to this most graceful and
modest and feminine Of all feminine garments
WsrO voted old fashioned. Our grandmothers
would have been shocked at the thought OF
GoinG without . chemise; indeed, they would
hsTe thought It's successor. the plain short vest,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
MOURNERs TO TRAVEL IN STATE

A Car just Built by tho Reading Railroad
for Funeral Parties.
READING. Pa. Oct, 1.-The car shops OF the
Reading Railroad Company here have Just
built a funeral car. 1t is sixty feet long and ia
divided into three compartments. The frat ia
for the casket and pallbearers. and 1t contains
she q rapea SaIe tFha midd rae nem are NJ - six Ms ssats toI
the mourners and contains ten seats. The
finish Is in dark mahogany and dark cloth. In
the third compartment are SOM thirty seats
for those invited to the funeral.
Tho car Is 70 be used 70 convey funeral par
S'e Great impSrovement on the present method vi
conveying funeral parties on regular trains,
No extra charge will DO made 30 long as a GER
party.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
A Bookworm,s ThouEhts on Woman Writers.

4 BoOkwOrm'S Thoughts on Woman Writers.
To THE EDITOR OF THE suS-Sir: Tho criticism
of = Dutch teacher OF Miss Scidmore'a Java" in to-
days Bun bears out what I have felt for years. that
women were at once the most acute and the least
responsible of observers OF conditions differing
from their own-in other words. they may he good
travellers. but are poor observers In the broad sense
OF basic conditions. Often / have begun u book OF
travels only TO drop It after a page or two. rs the
treatment told me. without the authors name. that
II was written by a woman aud was ineAact, Their
enthusiasm and rcprODatiOn both arr Intense, de-
pendent not on tho event or cause, but on the de.
gree OF their Own personal feelings II tho per
mistreases OF the art OF writing them. but
the right focus OF varying condition. requiring a
logical mind. Along the lineSot their qualifications.
in verse or prose, they are ullHNcGlled, but q book re-
viewer is unfair to the reading public who fails to
point ont that a book may DO eisyerly written and
RE a%slo Of mi iSSF t,t and @.S the dF RssS:Snsl pTT ra,n ,SST, Of 6totihhs,
Of View a cardinal sin, This constitnuonai nSr.owness
Of mind Tlli make their literary work Fundamentally
task. perhaps, for traducing the sex: Herewith dis,
claim all intention Of so doing While women now
% point cut that the Creator has wisely ordered
their talents and paths slon; lines dinerent from
should be- %e ihiandatsa With @Hi P faisRS b snss T bsc %aS F9 tha
subject Is in fashion and the enthusiastic woman has
to earn the honest do ii the Il b Snd ssiiH P Pabit .fs,s
hfS in , ssSFs for su thGsS Tt6 VI ssas9na6le goods,
produces to order by means of encyclopedias, 6c..
and his own inner consciousness ht Oks to sat.
isty q sudden and q passing demand. In a small
personal library OF some 800 bOOA Az l have discarded
OF permanent literature.
] class these derelicts as impossible or improper
novels, economics and social works that are uu-
sound, ine1ect travels, sketuhy, frothy books built
To order, enthusiastic and passionate reminiscenceA
ana biographies: in general, all works that do not
show the hand OF a master builder, aud, further, all
books that teach error and lying and deceit and
WrohRdolnR, OF which the number 10 legion, The Gle.
Inent Of truth, OF sincerity, of ability must be- IN and
0tthe books I keep, and ~ has been my experience
that women writers are able ON entimentaI I. literary
lines. hnt,tn the heavier practical work Of literature
tbey fall lAm0ntably abort OF the Ideals / have set
for my Own AmAl collection, BooKWonM
= HoAA. Sept ~.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

elsewhere. thus permitting the corset to set
more closely ON the figure. Instead OF the
woven hem or crochet edge of the ordinary
woollen garment these suits are embellished
with beautiful lace threaded with ribbons. and
are further ornamented with bows or r~osettes.
The plain flannel petticoatw with its embroidered
scallop is completely out Of vogue among fash
ionable women. who wear exquisite skirts Of a
silk-and-wool mixture lined with soft. warm
silk and deliberately ornamented with shaped
nounces Of silk or lace. These skirts are all
short. A long p~etticoat of flannel decorated
from the knees with double flounces Of pongee.
vertically striped with tucks and torchon lace. is
o fetching imported novelty.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

the nainsook. Of which the gown 10 made.
edged with lace. The neck 10 slightly low. and
the sleeves t~hree-auarter length.
The nchu is q feature OF the eweSt night
dress. and ls q most becoming part OF Il. a.
may readily be seen from the second ilustra-
ton. This garment. too. belongs to q bridal
OeL and is made high In the neck. Not all Wo-
men look we'll In loW-necked gowns, and oonse-
Quently one style IL considered rs correct e.
the other. Sleeves. also. are left to the indi-
rLduai taste. or rather to the individual form.
for the very thin woman 10 not apt to look
kindly on the nightdresseS with elbow sleeves
or very short ones. which hang anEel-fAshion
froul the shoulders to display the arms. like
those In the third picture. This slumb0r robe
u made Of nainsook and trimmed with the
hnsst Of nns smbroideres. 1t Is = Jo-
Sephipe gown. being held into the hg-
~ ipSt under the bust by means Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
Fitness and Unntness for Marriage.

To THE EDITOR OF THE SuN-Sir: You edi-
torial quotations from the most depressing
essay by DR.. Harry Campbell in the London
Lancet show that he regards the race as fast
going to the dogs because young people
think more Of their Owl happiness than that
Of posterity. and continue to marry and be
given in marriage regardless Of their mental
or physical fitness.
Nov. as a matter Of fact. the human race. as
a whole. seems to be getting happier and
longer-llved all the time. Centenarians are
very common nowadays. and oven among the
very poor there is q remarkable absence. In
civilized countries. at least. Of such loathsome
diseases as in ancient times decimated the
II we are to breed a race OF strong animals
some sb eaH GHag T trdiSSessS who SS ~ RiIed p e9 al im biatS
those infants which seemed to lack the phySi-
cal endowmenta necessary to long life.
all human kind will continue TO exercise the
implied right and liberty, so long as they are
Moreover, the learned doctor seems to forget
that IN the birth Of an a. iniant there Is inyolyed
individual which determines largely the later
physical status. and, usually, entirely changes
the physical nature IN the end.
Furthermore, the theory OF hereditv Is at the
Pse sSsSRifa 'T men. .a ana plain Sif'i facts Ct Which ri hlea 5ans
come under. my personal observation, lead to
the. conclusion that heredity Is Q bugaboo
which has had it's day.
Then, again. speaking Of happiness. ~ Is often
Is, the less happy he ia. He may be contented.
like the swine, we'll fed; but happy, mol IN
bic the mutations of physical and splr-
ituNl states ere so surprising that Il
Predicated that this or that, Infant, viii Do
healthy. happy and Wise. or the contrary. II
there is anything within the realm Of human
Of Divine Providence In Its masterfnl guidance
Of the world through a serieA OF astounding
evolutions, 1t Is this very question OF the union
OF man and woman and the procreation of their
kind; and. rs Won happily quote at the end OF
your editorial on Worry"
We may be happy Jet,
You beti
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
CAPEB SAUCE c4rKRa.
Imported from France and Spain in BUN
and Put Up in Glass Here.

and Put Up in Glass Here.
The eaper. familiar in caper sauce and used
also ~ q RArnish for salads. is imported from
Spain and France, Capers are Grnwn In Italy,
but none Ia imported from there into thls
country.
Capers are sorted into four sinee, OF which THE
smallest are known commercially as nonparella,
and tho next larger a. surfnea, The next
larger In French capers are capucinea. and the
largest capotes. while the next to the largeeS
and the largest Of Spanish capers arc known
respectively as capotes No, l and No q The
smallest capers are the most desirable and
bring the most money. French capers sell for
more than, Spanish. Capers Are imported
almost wholly In bulk In kegs Of fifteen or ak
teen gallons, and barrels OF about forty gallonQ
in brine or vinegar. A few oapers are imported
In glass. but they are mostly put up In thi6
country. Capers grow on q bush.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

gored under the arm. after the fashion OF a
chsmise. and are cut rather long and the skirts
trimmed. They are deliberately trimmed at
the top with fine lace and ribbon. and are to
be had ribbed or plain. Those OF plain silk.
woven after the fashion OF a very fine pure-silk
stocking. are exquisite to look at and delight
full to the touch.
While the matinee more properly belongs to
negllR6 dress, the average m thinks Of
1t In connection with her lingerie, This gar
ment was not intended to wear outside Of ones
boudoir originally, but II has grown 80 In
beauty that the possessor OF one 10 not apt to
resist the temptation Of attring herself in 1t for
breakfast. Decidedly the most novel matinee
brought out this season Is the surplice tunic.
This sacque Is fashioned OF liberty silk In
white or any very delicate shade. and has q
square shirred yoke OF the material back and
front. On 70 this yoke the silk 10 either ac-
Gordon pleAted or gathered. and hangs with
out any confinement whatever. Tbs sleeves
are tight and shirred well down over the
hand. A hohu OF the silk draped on sur
Pliee fashion completes this exceedingly soft
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

lem has been simply solved for her. Short
French corset covers that come only to or Just q
trihe below the waist are made to adhere closely
to the figure by means OF n drawing string at
neck and belt line. The new models are
very dainty trifes. Some are tucked all
over vertically or horizontally and others have
bayadere or bias insertings of lace or embroid-
cry. or both. let in. A bolero corset cover fits
well and is as becoming as it is pretty. which 10
all that can be said In its favor. Both the sur
plice and the Hchu effect are sought and are
equally becoming. Some very handsome cor
set covers are hand-embroidered on the goods.
Gauze vests are no longer plain and I'M
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

were last season. Very few full umbrella draw
ers are shown, this design having been greatly
modified. They are narrower. and at very
snugly and plainly about the hips. having no
gathers at all in front and on the sides. and as
few as possible in the back. Flounces are deep
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
Old Glory Gets a special Train in sweden
From Tie Boston Record

HoLYoKE, Sept. GA Holyoks teacher who
has been studying manual training in Sweden at
a point where the ears run only twice a week,
recently received y letter from home In a nag"
communication from the United Statee Glow
ernmenk on account of the has, immediately
forty miles for the benefit OF the recipient
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
IsLINoroN. Mass. Sept. 36.
We may be happy ye
You betl

To THE EDITOR OF The sUN-STr: You quote
DIR. CAmpbell in your editorial to-day as sAytnG,
~ fear 1t must be acknowledged that a. regards
happiness " " d" the fne animal. with little
Imagination and a good. thick skin. has the best time
of II here. is the most truly mt II may be that ouch
a one cannot rise to the GAme heights Of happiness
rs his more nervous and imaginative brother, but on
the other hand he Ia Incapable Of sinking into the
same depths OF wretchedneBs."
II this no acknowledged II must also, on the came
line OF argument. be acknowledged that ali educA.
ton, all culture and all refinement tend more TO dc.
stroy happiness than to produce II.
This may be true. Do you think 1t isf
DAVID A. CURTIS.
NV YoRE. Sept. IS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

and deliberately embellished with tucks. pufis.
shirrings. and TRIMMINGS. and are for the most
part cut of square instead OF rounded
Both the very short and the long muslin pet
ticoats. like those illustrated. are cut after the
newest dress-skirt patterns. and their At is
fAultless. Their tops are sheath-shaped. and
they fit back and front around the top without
. gather or pleat or even so much as q pucker.
1t goes without saying that they faredecidedly
at the bottom. and on the long petticoats threo
Ac0-edGed graduated rufles are made to fall
over one another. and are set on IN attached
laee-edGed aounce which makes four fluffy
rufles about the feet. Not a skirt with plain.
straight flounees is to be seen. They are set on
zigzag. in points, in ~seallops. or so as to run
high up in the back. The very short skirts are
more popular than ever before.
That little garment. the corset cover. plays
an important part in the success or failure OF
woman's wardrobe. for upon IL depends the
Mt or rather the correct set of her bodiees.
There was . time when she despaired Of ever
finding a model for this garment that would
not shrink or stretch after it had been sent to
the laundry two or three times. but the prob
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

Oign and materials. and the most expensive
things are simply indescribable. The new
undorRarments are all full Of grace. There aro
dousns Of dainty. fresh, fluffy novelties that
orumpie and crush into transparent masses a.
women lift and drop them to look at dozens Of
others stIll moro daint and fresh and fluffy.
English nainsook Is the fabric most in use
for nne underwear. It 10 unquestionably more
comfortable and satisfactory than any other
material. though handsome and fashionable
endorsements are also made Of India silk.
lawn and batiste. Real laces. very fine imita-
lions Of Valeuciennes which defy detection BY
any one except an expert. q novelty In point
d'eeprtt. point de Paris. cotton eIuny. Tare
torehous and italian and French Valenciennea
are the laees most used to render the under
EaEnnenta Of the moment the works Of art that
Ghsy are. Irish point embroidery in new de-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

lace. This style Is rather to be followed by
very thin women. Nearly all chemises made to
serve a. corset cover and short skirt are
trimmed with frills and tucks and lace about
the bottom. A full-dress chemise designed to
be worn under the very deeollet6 iuIldress that
Ia promised for this winter has no shoulder
pieces; In fact. 1t 10 without q sign Of sleeves or
straps. A band Of fancy beading through whichA
ribbon Ii run. passes around the body close
under the armplts. and on 10 this beading q
skirt OF the sheerest Of materials is gathered.
A lace irill trims the upper edge and skirt Of
the chemise. which lis held In place by two
ribbons running through the beading at tho
right and left and tied over the shoulders. II
worn over the corset these ribbons are unified
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02

nothing less than immodest. How the chenise
ever came to be 60 completely ousted no one
seems 10 know. but the truth is that It disap-
peared so entirely that it comes back almost In
the manner Of q novelty. Formerly this gar
ment was worn next to the skin under the cor
set, but 1t IL now more frequently worn over
the corset. doing duty as a corset cover and
short skirt. The most highly approved design
10 rather short-falllng just low enough to
hide the drawers. Most OF the newest models
are made to draw in behind at the waist line
with a ribbon. so that they fit the figure as
snugly and smoothly as a fitted corset cover.
Chemises in the bridal sets are. Of course.
made to match the nightdresses. A very pretty
one is that first shown. The empire waist Is
made OF cobwebby all-over embroidery and
two fun frills Of edging to match outline tho
rounded neck. forming a sort Of epaulette over
the shoulders.
Another effective Empire chemise has a huge
bertha all around the neck. Vandyke points are
mad Of the material and edged with embroi-
dered insertion and handsome Valenciennes
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
Hair Goods.

Nothing ID more attractive noth-
ing prettier, and nothing so be-
coming than a beautiful clear color
OF silver gray-or pure white head
of Hair!
At this time of the year my
stock is, as usual, full up to the
standard, and this season Of an
unusual attractive assortment in
all shades from the lightest blonde
to the darkest brown and black,
and of such excellent quality az
cannot be found elsewhere.