The record-union., 1898-01-30

has culinary criticism been so intelli-
gent and exacting." When asked II
there was any particular recipe in spec
ial favor this season Collas replied:
Yes, indeed. Mousse de foie sras au
champagne brut' is the ne plus ultra for
suppers at dancing parties. 1t also IL
Illustrates the simplicity now prevailing.
tor 1t is merely fresh goose liver whip
ped up into a mousse with the dryest
possible champagne, without any other
ingredients whatever
The chef al the Jockey Club, the
President of which is that pre- -eminent
gourmet, the Due de Doudeauville. was
equally emphatic about the absolute
simplicity aud correctness of the new
cookery The chef of this club, famous
for its culinary department, is Georges
Deiafoy, and in reply to questions
asked by the writer said: Not only
does the simplicity in the art of cooking
predominate in the best private houses
and clubs, but this is extended to table
decorations as we'll. These are noN
limited to few flowers strewn in fes-
toons on the cloth, and pedestals for
decorative dishes are now out of date
even for great occasions. Hors
d doeuvres are no longer asked for, and
the appetite is concentrated upon a few
carefully prepared dishes or joints.
which latter must be done exactly to
the turn 1t was noticed that a num-
ber of private cooks, some of whom
were women, were working in the kitch-
en- of the Jockey Club, where they COM
plete their education under the eye of
M. Delafoy. They each pay for this
privilege $50 a month, and the custom
prevails in all the best Partisan clubs.
Leon Letain, the chez at the Cafe An
glais, said: The Cafe AnglaiS has
always prided itself since it came into
vogue, shortly after the battle of Wat
erloo, in conforming TO the old French
traditions of the cuisine, and it is with
genuine delight that we hail the pres
ent movement toward simplicity and
excellence. CompleXity is fatal TO
good cooking. The introduction of
hors-d oevres some years ago had
great deal to do with the degeneration
OF taste, and these e3otics are never
served at the Cafe Anglais unless spec
tally asked for
| Tesch the able chef of President Fe-
! lix Faure at the Elysee Palace, con-
firmed the views already expressed
about the revival of the recent purity
| in cooking, but added that the recent
| popular Russian banQuets, and in fact,
| the Franco-Russian alliance, had cre-
ated a renewed demand for Muscovite
| hors- q oeuvres, somewhat to the dis
advantage of the orthodox cuisine.
Georges Bouton, the chef at the Cafe
| Voisin, where the Russian Grand Duk' 5
| may be seen daily at dinner or break
| fast, said: THE cuisine of the present
season is characterized by fewer dishes,
which, however, require far greater
! thought, care and attention on the part
of the cook than ever before. Profus-
| ion and exaggeration are now out of
| fashion, and a recent breakfast given
| by the Grand Duke Vladimir consisted
of eggs a la tsarine. filets de sole a Ia
| Chambord, haunch of venison Ia
muscovite, fonds d'artichauts and
fruit"
| Edouard Nignon, the chef at the Res
taurant Paillard, said: Never before
| has there been such excellent cooking
as now prevails in Paris. The great
efforts of the chef are now aoncentrat-
ed upon masterpieces which, in their
abundant simplicity, constitute the fun
damental part of the dinners and sup
| pers now demanded. There is a decid
ed Improvement in the public taste
| which l believe is unprecedented. and
which promises brilliant and truly ar
| tistic results in the near future"
| The above expressions of opinion of
the leading authorities reveal the
| strength and depth of the new depart
ure in French cooking. The benefits
of this renaissance era now begun in
at the dinner tables of the New as we'll
as of the Old World.-Paris correspond
ence of the New York Tribune.