The Republican journal., 1898-04-21
In Cuba's Capital With A Camera.
A Last Look at the Graves of Our Men
of the Maine Some Spanish Charac-
terstics.

teristics.
Especial correspondence of The Journal
WASHINGTON, Apr. 12, '9S. The last thing
did before leaving Havana was to go out
to the Cementario de Christoval Colon, to
photograph the graves of our men of the
"Maine,'' for the sake of their friends at
home. 1t was faultless summer morning,
cooled and sweetened by tradewinds watt
ing the odor of flowers on their wings-such
weather as would make paradise of Cuba
without these dreadful conditions of war.
The "Cementario'' lies about three miles
from the heart of the city. You may go by
horse-car far as the suburb, Jesus del
Monte, and thence to the gate of the en-
closure in ten-cent bus; or you may take a
carriage, at the rate of 81 80 the hour. Ha-
vana's 5000 or more public carriages carry
you from point to point anywhere within
the city limits for 20 cents, each way; but
they make up for THAT cheapness, by charg-
ing five times as much if they cross the line
of demarkation into the suburbs, by so
much as quarter of a mile. The student
of human nature gets good deal more out
of the trip in the democratic horse-car; but
as time was an object on our last day in
Cuba we chose the quicker transit of the
carriage The drive is beautiful one past
city parks and plazas, abloom with roses
the great market-house, with it's facing of
"portals,'' or covered arches-under each
arch regular curo-store of shop; through
interminabIe narrow streets, built closely
up with low, t1at-roofed buildings, painted
sky-blue, purple, rose-pink, pea-green, all
| with iron barred windows. The retail
traders placard their infinitessimal stocks
with hgh-sounding titles,-such as the
shoe-shop of La Riena de las Flores, the
queen of the tlowers;;'') the grocery of the
Love of Venus; the old clothes cleaner of
His Gracious Majesty, Alphonso VII etc.
Ha ana has been correctly described as a
city of smells and noises. 1t is relief when
the everlasting racket of the cobble stones
is exchanged for the smooth roll of wheels
over macadamized road, though the latter
is deep in dust and white as snow in a glar-
ing sunshine. Down the middle of the
road statues stand at frequent intervals-old
marble figures, quaint and weather-stained.
Dusty trees line the way; beneath them,
on either side, a little stream purls along
pebbIy ditch; and the fields are hedged with
organ cactus, its pipes covered with
stinging spines, growing close together high
er than mans head forming barrier which
no living thing can pass. The Governor
Generals country place is close to the city
ha II
cent estate, with towering PAINS, wilder
ness of flowers and extensive park. in which
the choicest vegetation of the tropics flourish
to perfection. The mansion-large, low,
white painted and surrounded by latticed
yerandas-remans closed in these troubu-
lous times but formerly the rulers of Cuba
spent most of the year here and gave frequent
receptions which We're attended by the
flower of Fl 4vana' 8 society. 1t is said that the
ornate iron paling which surrounds these
grounds was stolen from the municipality
by former Govenor-General 1t enclosed
the central plaza, with its score of entrances,
and the good people We're very proud of it.
But his excellency needed a new fence for
his country place and preferred to retain
the money in the treasury for other private
uses. SO one night after dark the transfer
was made by company of soldiers and
next morning the astonished citizens could
hardly believe their eyes at sight of the
denuded park.
Adjoining this place is the botanical gar
den, with wonderful avenue of royal
palms, second only to that of Rio de Janeiro,
in Brazil. A little farther on is the Quinta,
(Garden) of the business mems club-a one.
story, rambling, red-tiled building, sur
rounded by shrubbery. Members of this
club, who keep up their dues of a dollar a
MONTH can go out to this place at any time
for few days rest and recuperation, OF for
nursing when actually i'll. Another interest
ing institution on this road is the retreat
OF a Catholic sisterhood corresponding to the
Order known in the United States as 1.-The
Little Sisters of the Poor" The valuable
estate, with its fine old mansion set far
back from the highway behind green fields
and royal palms, was bequeathed to the
Order many years ago by a wealthy Cuban
lady, and the Little Sisters now very
aged women, are logging toward sunset
in peaceful retirement.
Rustic tiendas are scattered along the
way, through whose open doors white
draped tables are seen; and the clinking of
glasses indicates that the refreshment is
mostly in liquid form. Donkeys are con-
stantly met-sometimes singly, sometimes
tandem, half dozen in line, hauling a
heavy load-always wonderfully caparison-
ed with jingling bells and scarlet tassels and
huge rolls of white wool atop the shoulders
and harness thickly studded with big brass
| nails. Ox-teams frequent, long trains OF
| them, yoked two abreast, their poor heads
bowed almost to the earth by the load of
| wood upon the horns, held in place by a
cruel rope drawn through the nostrils. 1t
| makes ones heart ache to witness the treat
| ment of animals in Cuba,-and nothing
seems to fare worse than oxen, the most
| patient and faithful of all beasts of burden
| How their heads must ache under those
| heavy yokes, staggering all day long, lashed
and goaded at every step though pulling the
utmost ounce of which they are capable.
! When the days work is done, the suffering
| beasts, often without water and grudgingly
| fed only to keep strength in them, must still
| rota tha 10 tor oh le