The daily morning journal and courier., 1898-04-16
MIR. vANDERBILTs JOSEPH.


 chefs, has arrived in London. He has come to teach us how to dine and be happy.
 The Savoy hotel has secured his ser- vices as consulting adviser, and in little while we shall be a city of epi- cures, learned in the fine art of dining and expert in the mysteries of bouquet.
 Joseph is not any mans servant. History" he says, "has produced three great Josephs. The first, it is my self, the second is a living Englishman, and the third-ah! the third-he ruled over Egypt" Joseph left the great Vanderbilt because the millionaire yearned for the corned beef and cab bages of America. Should Joseph serve pressed beef and cabbage? Non! Twelve months ago a wealthy English man offered him a princely sum to come over for day and prepare a banquet for honored guests. Tt is inn possible" said Joseph; Paris could not spare me-" This Savoy hotel has done the impossible thing. Joseph consent- ed to relieve London in her distress. He crossed the channel, and now he is here, and the hearts of the wealthy are rejoicing.
 Last evening Joseph sat at dinner in the restaurant he has come to inspire with his magic. To him went a repre- sentative of The Daily Mail and asked after the approved manner of the catechism, What is your name?" Joseph" said the great little man. Joseph, and nothing more. There have been three great Josephs. The first, it is-oh, you have heard that be- fore? Well, it is true, and a true thing permits itself to be often spoken" Jo- seph consumed his quail and salad, and talked about dinners: "A dinner" he said, Should be short--like men. The shorter they are the better. If you say that you make the big chaps savage so don't say it."
 Anything else?" Lots. Make the good things as plain as possible. God gave a special flavor to everything. Re l spect it. Do not destroy it by mess- | ing.''
 But in my ignorance I thought it was the French cook who practiced the | mesing?" Sometimes they do," and | Joseph looked tolerantly sad; but the cook, he would not if he followed the dish from the kitchen to the table, But what would you? It is impossible. | Sometimes we make a mistake. My situation is to be the intermediates If there is anything which does not please somebody, the cook he should 1 know.
 And tell him. I am in the restau- rant, and I watch. see that the dish is properly served. There are several ways of serving a dish, and there are several ways of hanging a picture. If | the picture is not in good light, it is | wrong. And if the dish is not served right, it is wrong. You ask how I know why dish is wrong? You must guess why You must be a diplomat and an actor at the same time you are ] a cook Else you are not 'complete.' | There is manner of eating what you like and another manner of eating 1 what you not like. You saw me eat salade? I like it-good. You tell by l the 'physiognomic.' It is not same non. Then you must try to have some memory. If the man comes again, you do not give him the same dish nor any l thing like it. You do not remember his name--it is no matter. You remember the face. It is art, you know-art '"
 And supposing they do not like a dish which is good?" Joseph shrugged his shoulders, and said he advised, but l did not compel "A woman may be pretty and you have no love for her. You love an ugly one No matter. You have your choice. My diner has his. :"
 Joseph poured out his red wine, sniff fed the bouquet, gazed critically at the wine, and observed that to eat dinner {. .1- TaI how should we eat it?"
 'Ah, that would fill your Daily Mail to overhowing. But I will tell you two things Be in good appetite and drink the proper wines to the proper dishes !" "The proper wines heing?" "Ah, now you want two Daily Mails"
 "Well, say, milk punch, sherry, Sauterne, claret-"
 Stop, stop!" said Joseph his fea- lures expanding with horror. You are settled right first bang! It is no dinner, that"
 "But I have seen it on menus,' Jo- seph smiled genially, as if to say that he is here now.
 His next observation was startling. If there ever was a Frenchman, Jo- seph looks one. His shrewd glance, his good -humored smile, his short active figure, his idiom, and, above all, his shrug, proclaim him a born boulevar- der He said, T hope my townsman, Mir Chamberlain, will not be jealous because am come back to England I, the other Joseph"
 What, are you an Englishman?"
 Well of course. l was born of French parents, at Spon Lane, near Birmingham. I went to France when I was thirteen years, and this is the first time l have returned. I do not know how long I stay l have an im- portant house of my own in Parfs-the Restaurant Joseph, near the new Opera Comique. How I wish they would build a bridge across that horrid channel Then, you see, I can cross easily from one restaurant to another. But they do not build it! I bring with me two chefs, Thouraud and Charles Tripod, who has been with me-oh, many years in my Parisian house. They are artists"
 The Restaurant Joseph, in the Rue Marivaux, is an unpretentious house in narrow side street, in addition to which it is one of the most famous restaurants in Europe. There is not a gourmet but knows his Joseph. Once there was Joseph's coat, Now there is Joseph's duck. It is known as "Le Caneton de Rouen a la Presse." An