The times., 1898-03-06
SkIRMISH OF THE SKIRTS
Lively Tilt Between the Bell
and Princess Patterns.
HAT JEWELS AND PLUMES
POuteT Pigeon Effects in Neck Dee
praLi0nc-w windmill Flats FoaminE
Over with BiIowy TuIIe-Lenten
Gowns show smart Sleeves.
TraUspa rent Dress Materials.

New York. March 6.-The briSkeSt sort
or trading is being carried on just now in
ostrich feathers. and unless there is Il
failure Of signs all along the line. this
win be season distinguished for the
length and number the rich quality and
fine color Of the plumes worn. Children
and grown-ups alike viii share these
truly beautiful head ornaments. that are
not so expensive as they might be. our
own ostrich farms in the West send cx-
cellent feathers to the milliners, who are
using them 10 replace the stiff wings and
the birds.
Wide hats Of the softest straw are
fairly draped with this lovely plumage.
accompanied usually by few roses by
way OF smart color. The brims are
loopcd or crushed back on one side and
a soft arc Of feathers, springing from a
iewelcd ornament. placed well in front,
sweeps against the hair well 10 the rear
in fTinEy masses, 10 dTOOp almost 10 the
shoulder behind.
The most bewitchiuG garden party and
carriage hats. of chips and leghJrn. in
white and black. are exhibited, their
bTims loft 10 fan in wide flutes about
the face big wired bows % lace erected
in front and three white or black plumeS,
Of amazing height. flowing back on either
side the low crown. TO let their curling
ends fan out like streamers in the rear.
Beside the ostrich plumes a great many
oUills and coquc feathers are doing active
service. one and all. these are wide and
sin. curved and cut TO resemble miuia-
tUre ScimiteTs, dyed in rich dark colors
and closely powdered with large and
small duh gold green, red or blue SPAN
giles. A couple OF these, sprinGinE from a
high, tight knot of silk, set on the top
side Of . straw crown, have very smart
effect indeed.
This is nothing new. but ii must needs
be recorded that 4 deal of tulle is APP
pearing, cast as a sort of cloudy veil,
over the crowns Of hats close piled with
flowers. Last year this was one expert
meHt that found favor. 1t is worth max
ing a note that all trimmings of ribbons
or piece silk are twisted. never folded,
about bTims and crowns. All trimming,
and there is positively no exception 10
this rule, springs up at the side, just as
high as ever we please TO make it. jew
eled ornaments are used withe caution,
though there is a striking display OF
heavily leWeled crown bands, and in
place OF lace hats in black. white, and all
colors. chiffon fats are TO be features of
the season. The chiffon is very elaborate
ly puffed and shirred on TO wire frames,
and quite as often as not the back, as
well as the side brim of a hat. is turned
up sharply and q broad comb Of small
blossoms set there.
Last spring the weavers Of hats OBJ
liged US TO almost doubt the evidence of
our senses, into such fantastic, incon-
gruOus shapes did they distort the straw
crowns. This year the crown has re-
turned to its normal state, but the brims
OF all straw things have gone on mad
race after originality of form. Some of
them have large pie-shaped pieces cut
out at intervals, and the gaps filled with
tucked or gathered chiffon; others curve
in or bow out in deep scallops. on one
side Of many hats three sections Of brIm
are set and spread apart TO contain q
filling Of stemless flowers, between the
straw tips. Still more astounding are the
windmill brims made OF wedge-shaped
pieces Of straw so set about the crown
as 10 assume the aspect Of stiff leaves
tossed IN every direction.
Now that we get nearer and nearer 10
genuine springtme, nothing is more
clearly apparent than that the blouse
front IS about TO shrink into perfectly
straight line from bust to waist Every
woman with a full figure is rejoicing ac-
cordingly and adopting the fat iii in
front while the slender ones cling to a
fullness that must be without any pouch
ed or dropped aspect
Skirts are literally still torn between
conflicting dressmakers and preferences.
must be made with one large Spanish
founce and this in turn be aounced
with narrow frills OF striped with ribbon
or fretted with embroidery to any wom-
ans taste; but the tailors cry "Viye Ia
bell skirt" Literally q beIl-shaped pet
ticoat and onto these cloth petticoats
they pray permission 10 stitch bands Of
bright satin or silk. or set fine tucks, or
wrinkle tie goods with cording or, latest
OF fashions cut ont Of cloth large are
besques and stitch these on to cloth
The aspect thus gained IS Of cloth rich
ly and fancifulIy embossed in its own
color or one may have this same thing
done in two gently contrasting colors.
While the tailors labor for the election
oi The bell skirt TO supreme fashionable
eIniucuce, The Iaodistes are working like
beavers for The princess shape and be-
tween these rival factions there Is an
amount Of variety in dressmaking we
have not known in a number Of years
All the while trains are crawling out in
the rear and haiTcloth IS creeping up
our backs. The haircloth does depend
though on The prejudces Of the modiste
patronized, FOR a goodly proportion are
advocating the very new French method
Cf making the skirts unusually long all
around, separating lining and goods and
facing the former up only depth OF
-FOUR inches with any stiffening. By this
means al the skirts fulluess falls in
Imply at the feet and the result IS an
aesthetic appearance at the cost Of COM
fort. The riVals faction believe that a
train must slope out grandly in organ
Ike folds from the waist down So
there we all are paying our money and
taking our choice and IN consequence the
women this season do not look like so
many peas from the same pod
While on the subject Of gowns. IL is
as well 10 announce that wool and silk
crepons are coming back to use: that
pecan suiting IS one Of the good light
weight twIlled woods for summer wear.
and 'r@- SEA the way Of cotton things.
distinctly for outing wear there is a
wide range of subjects. Linen poplin IN
blue and white checks Is one of the
materials FAR sand away better than the
highly Landed gaiatea and then for
glowing color. Tench duck IS to be cor
daily recommended. This is a duck az
quite light weight and Fl comes this
season IN poppy red, prioress blue and
rather overwhelming purples II trims
up. however. very smartly with a fiat
braid, quite ike a heavy tape. and for
the seaside II VIII be widely adopted
Nearly All the taffetas for dress Dur-
poses have their flower patterns out.
lined with a pretty brocaded edging
bat on the whole. few taffetas will be
used this spring, save for foundation
purposes.
This is because there IS a perfect
horde of tempting transparent dress ma.
terials 10 select from IN tender shades
Of green and brown, gray and mauvc
They are al mixtures Of silk and wool
and the exceptions prove the rule IN
favor Of bayadere stripes Many tissue