The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-11-27
~G4STRONOMIC NOTES.

The season for ruled aud pinnated grouse is new
onI lin this state IL is never OF, and the opportunity
is presented to eat Of these birds freshly killed be-
fore they have suffered the deterioration of cold
storage. What applies to the English pheasant il
equally applicable 10 onr grouse. If anything, tho
comparison is more favorable to our birds. A writer
in the London G!ob,, in al article on the pheasant
and the cook, has n good deal to say of the culinary
treatment Of that hirl which suggests the nac Of the
same methods with our grouse. ~withtthis difference.
that orr species are all wild. while in England there
is in favor a great gulf between II pheasant reared
tame aud one in IL wild state. Sucking says that
there is the same. choice asle;Teen n country and .
town.bred woman. Thi' smile has not rs much
meaning here as in England. where it requires
g,nerations 10 accomplish what Il department store
or a daily newspaper will d. for our rural maidens
in a few days. The game flavor Of grouse il due to
the devel spmcnt Of an oily fat which requires
slight fermentation To bring it to full ripencss.
This il obtained by an automatr process. the Co
vice of the fan ous GrimOd de Ia Rcynitrc. This
consists in hanging the bird b. the tail until the
weight OF the DO ~ lopsen' the feathers and br nga
Il to the loDr. There il no reason why the same do
Vice ira ? NJ t be employed with all feathorcd game.
OF the cooking of ph"nsants or grousr th'rc are thee
~ays-EDglish French and American. The hrst
consists in roasting the bird before a bright fire and
serving it with a clear & ANY and hreat sauc". French
cooks usually destroy the aroma Of game through
use of specs, herbs, &c. The recipe of Savarn ex-
hausts the RESOURCES ostae Gallo school. The livers
and entrajls OF two woodcock are pounded with
two t;ufies. an anchoyy, a sumcicncy Of
minced bacon and q lump Of butter. This pa'tr,is
spread on a large slice Of brel d aud placed under tbs
from j.. The bird is served on the slice of bread.
The American method, is superior tn the other two.
through the back and pressed Eat. They are placed
in a pan mi ara In ,R Rns dxar AID f tSe fird ss aa r Ds,.sr nnnPpii
about two.,hirds cooked, when they 80 transformed
The birds while roasting an the butter miugle in the
pan, and a simple nroHstie sauce - me result in
poured over the birds whrn they ara served.
The Table of London. in an article on hotels in
England and on tho Continent, contrasts most un-
favorably the first with tho last. According TO tho
authority quoted. the air is Allied with the lamepts
Of the yictimIZed and tales of suffering OF those who
frcquented country aud seaside hrte,s in England
during the past season. The charges were excess
sivc and the food of miserable quaiity. A visitor to
Dover gives his experiences at hiGh-grade hotel
there. This particular victim, in reposeful trust in
the reputation of the establishment. ordered some
cold roast beef for his lunch, He then went ont for
n walk while the order was being 6llcd. He re-
turned In q quarter OF an hour, when he rang tho
bell in the coffee room. but received no reply. After
waiting ten minutes n waiter wandered into the
loom and announced thst the roast beef was
engaged" in what function or capacity
is not set forth. After another DELAY OF
ten Minute q maii SAINT, req u MI th, he he
coffee room ana iolh tnN nluep ..NlFlAll 'i' ~"
would have 10 wat,' 1hls he dil patiently, for
auntheg quarter az al hour. rim ling AZ interNal'
when tho tame mIii ruarpCiTtd with sritia Graz :
az foli boilrd and sat lcrf, Sayilg that ig 'canla
have ina. or no Elns,' when the mon e1i ~ recson-
ing arrived aud the Nihtor ,ounp'a nsd !. ~ lTnd,
.at"n, he was called - liar" AM "oiIr,p ~, -,
For this term We have no exact rqiiN alrnl ~ th!s
country, except II b. "~Coinmuter' Dlt -trnPet
in%sinmstas wandering proriivues. which are entirely
foreign 10 the hRhib NJ a a" ~cnnmutcr Another
case rs cited II a visitor al Low es,of'. whore he TOOK
rooms ut a swell hotel for hn wife aud ii1nss ~ az
a charge OF e5 l2,--shonnt sas-a week after,
noon tea not included" The hrst meal served to
this couple VIVA dinner, ThtH consisted, according
to the romVlS ming Nietim; OF coup Hi'hr 9 mt,oT 1Mt
Tie couple Il turn PALE aud feel feint," a Tiny
scrap u " leathery h%eefstrak, &c, and butier thEe.
"yei The waiter confessed wa " not veiy, extra
The writer in The ms :, In al!usion TO the poor
character n Enyl sh cuunly AMI seaside hotels con-
trastS them with those IT Germany ana FRANCE, 10
the great advantage Of the latter. %hsrs. " sdaltIon
bands, casinos and well planted gardens are pro
yidsd' The comparison lad better have been made
with the seaside and inland summer hotels OF this
country, when the deficiencies OF those, mob only of
Eprlsnd, hut likewise those OF the Clntineft would
have been more strongly accsnIualsd.