The record-union., 1898-04-17


ish waists are made of black silk cross
ed with rich Roman stripes; and fad
with very fashionable young women
who copy French styles as soon as they
appear is the wearing of handsome
shirt waists of satin brocade, with tai
tornado cloth skirts. Some of the
black taffeta silk waists are cut down
in a little rounding curve at the neck,
and left open down the front to the
belt, and then a high-necked guimpe is
worn at the waist, with a narrow
tucked front fastened to it, which
shows where the blouse opens. Shep
herds checked silks, in many pretty
color blendings, are much used for shirt
waists. These are trimmed with very
fine tucks and narrow velvet ribbon.
And nearly every shirt waist this sea-
son has box-plait down the front that
is not dressy enough to be made with
revers. Beyond this pleat is a slight
fullness that comes from the shoulders.
Sometimes this is plain, and sometimes
it is laid in fine tucks, all the way
down, or merely to form a yoke reach
ing to the bust. If you are fairly long
wasted from the arms to the belt you
can wear a yoke at the back. The
plain, small sleeve, in regular shirt
sleeve shape, is used for all utility
waists, and it is frequently employed on
those of silk or satin. You can use
ribbon, points folds or plain bands
about your neck if they are particularly
becoming, but the large ribbon bow at
the back is distinctly passe. The best
plan is, first, to make the shirt waist
with a simple, straight, fat collar; then
have as many adjustable changes to
arrange upon this band as you like.
The large Directoire scarfs that are
sufficiently long to tie in full bow,
with ends, after going twice around the
neck, are very fashionably worn with
waists of various kinds. They are
made of net, India null, chiffon or
point d'esprit, with applique lace at the
edges. Sailor ties of crepe de Chine
are worn with silk waists, and for the
summer there are pretty styles in
fancy-striped or plaided ribbon or silk,
with fringed ends that are to be tied
under linen collars.
The new Scotch ginghams and French
zephyrs rival the taffeta silks in pat
tern and artistic coloring, and the sum-
mer girl who dOns a gown made oI
these charming fabrics, with the dainty
ribbon trimmings, and carries the par
asol which comes to match the goods,
will look quite as pretty at half the
cost as the girl who walks in silk attire.
Entire windows in many Of the i'm
porting houses are taken up with the
special display of the new, handsomely
colored plaids in silk and satin, silk
and wool, and all-wool fabrics. Very
many of the prettiest patterns are not
Scotch tartanS at all, but show color
blendings that are infinitely softer
than any plaids that have ever been
put upon the market. Mauve, faWn
color and mignonette green is one COM
bination shown; another is of turquoise
blue, chamois color and pale old rose,
with crossing satin lines of green. In
marked contrast to these designs are
plaidS showing the most startling and
aggressive lor-mixtures, and these
among expensive silks, satins and fine
French woods. Who are to wear these
conspicuous fabrics, too costly and
elaborate for children's garments, and
entirely too gay and garish for their
elders, remains to be discovered later
on in the season.
The early prediction by some of the
tailors and importers that some of the
long-skirted coats would prove very
popular this season has not yet been
fulfilled. The model has appeared upon
few very special cloth costumes de-
signed for tall women, most of these
deliberately braided. But the greater
portion of stylish and natty coats and
jackets are short, and not few ac-
companying tailor costumes are in the
little Elton bolero and similar styles so
familiar for seasons past. These, like
wise, appear en- suite with summer suits
of pique, linen, bingham, chambray and
like materials.