The herald., 1898-12-04
-Iate Hoveltles in Kats

NEW YORK, Nov. 2S.-(Special Core
spondence to The Herald.) Millinery occu-
:'ies every true womnns mind perhaps more
than any other department of dress, and it is
curious what an immense diversity there is
nm the styles. The small. close-fitting toques,
hats and bonnets are all things Of the past.
The foundations of bonnets are, maybe,
small, mere caps of velvet, but then they
have outstanding coronets of jet or velvet
and paradise plumcs extending on either side
in wonderful manner; in fact, many wo-
men look all head SO broad is their head
dress and SO important are the soft tule
rosettes or the flower introduced beneath
the rim. Most of the toques stand high in
the front, and are turned up sometimes on
one side and sometimes on the other.
At last American women realize fact
that has always been apparent to the French,
that the most important item i'll a good ap-
pearance is the headgear. The new hats are
very dressy. Sometimes the crowns are
corded and tucked all over. There is a new
stuff employed to cover them called ''taufe,"
which has rather rough, woolly surface,
with this effect. 1t is employed in white,
pink and blue, as well as other tones, and
is decidedly one of the great novelties. Many
OF the wonderful hats worn in the lncroyable
and Mervcicuse period have been readapt-
ed to present requirements. AS all example
OF this, fresh from Paris comes a felt hat,
with crown that recalls the high silk hats
worn by the men Of our day, but with diff
ference, and very decided difference, too.
W,are is the same circular fiat top to the
crown, but the chimney pot below this di-
minishes in size until it reaches the brm,
which is composed of fiat, circular tucks of
felt in two shades, and the brim curls down.
ward toward the ears. This is most effective
in a red shade-the rich, luscious red of the
moment, now called dahia,- closely allied to
sroseills.
Velvet of that tone is being much en-
ployed Fancy quils of many varieties
stand up from the face, thrust through ro-
eette bows in very curious fashion, and
the modes necessitate our ignoring many old
prejudices. In the first place, felt this year
is being literally trimmed with flowers.
Dark velvet, with tulc and fur, would seem
never TO be out of place. For the first time,
caracule has been dyed brown for millinery
purposes.
Milliners have invented many new forms
of rosettes. We have the old circular-pleated
kind and the newest are oval made in
satin, surrounded by a tiny gathering OF the
same material, placed erect on the front of
che upturned brim and secured by diamond
ornament.
Surely there cannot possibly be enough
birds of paradise to fulfill all the require
ments of the moment; they stand out bold
ly from mink toques, the fur forming not
only the brim, but the crown. The brim
turns up in a semi-circle over the face, with
a tuft of lace secured by buckle made
of paste, set in the center OF red velvet
rosette, bird of paradise springing out to
the left. Astrakan is treated in the same
way, for these fur toqucs are quite the
smartest things Of the moment, and it is
not surprising that they are expensive.
Sometimes the crown is made of mauve vel
vet, the upturned brim only of chinchila,
with punches of Neapolitan violets in front
and at the back
In picture hats the large size OF the head
gear is most apparent. Here again the
brim turns up and ostrich feathers stand
out in all directions in the most wonderful
way, which demands first rate modiste to
compass, for in modern millinery q step
from the sublime ia the ridiculous is but
o short one.
White felt is much the fashion, especially
Will the loW -CIOWHeu mus, ana Hat DTlINs
the edge cut and left raw The crown is
frequently surrounded by rosettes of two
shades of tulle, say heliotrope or rose pink,
and with these mingle any number of beau
tiful roses or violets. There is a new, soft
leather plait, the skin untanned, like suede,
which is applied to the edges of the enor-
nous bows introduced on the front,ol many
of the velvet hats, in the most beautiful
tones of heliotrope, sky blue or rose color.
The tea gown has suddenly sprung into
renewed popularity but as space would not
serve me to give anything like an adequate