Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-09-24
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Picture Hats Are Prettier Than Ever, but
So Are Toques.
Good Hints to Follow for New SeIec-
lions or in Freshening Up
Old Hats.


| VI
NEW YORK, September %, 1895
Mems straw hats called in the 18th
day of September. But women for once
| luckier than the opposite sex are permit
| ted to wear theirs much longer. But thin
| entering wedge of felt hats are now to be
| seen on the women who have returned to
| town and have had time to give earnest
| rhousnt to fall and winter head gear. The
custom grows of buying about this time of
the year some sort of plain felt hat, and
after wearing it on all occasions for a
! month or so, RELOCATING 1t to the ranks of
evsry day or rainy day hat Although
plainly trimmed, it must be very smart,
| and great care should be exercised in
choosing it, its shape, style and fitness
| Will carry off many different gowns.
This fall the Alpine, although much in
| evidence, Is not quite as popular a modi-
hcation Of tho short-backed sailor, or regu-
| lar sailor, which is trimmed with a soft
scarf of ribbon (no ends showing) and n
breast or several wings. Often a buckle is
added to the wings. These hats come in
| all shades of gray, brown and castor felt
| and can, of course, be had in black and
| dark blue, although these last two colors
| are not as much in evidence.
When an Alpine hat is chosen 1t is so
| bread that it is really an English walking
| hat shape And it always has the breast
| OF bird, several quilts wings, with per-
| haps buckle added, as well as a soft fold
OF orocadsd ribbon about the crown, to re-
q, neVe its stiffness. There is also q modifca-
| ton of the Sombrero shape of last wear
! which has the brim of wide sailor and the
| dented round crown of the little felt hat
| which was too much worn year or so ago
| ihen there are the NEST fetching little tur-
| bans. More trimmed, sad to say than A
| turban should be for real comfort Yet it
Is good to see these little, comfortable hats
| again with us, and trimming is after all
a matter of the fancy of the milliner If
| she puts on too much it can be taken off
| Some of the turbans seem to have changed
| very little during the time Of their seclu-
sion. Trey have the same small crown
| and round turned-up brim. But they ara
| only one variety of the turban on the mar
| ket, and from this modest shape they eyo-
| lut5 into Doucet models with brim of fur
| and crown of velvet or embroidered satin
| Some of than are little cooked hats which
| remind one of the great Napoleon Some
| of them have their felt foundation so COW
| e1ed with chenille, feathers and velvet that
| 1t is hard to recognize them.
| But whatever the shape or whatever the
| nat 1t Is not a protection from wind or
| weather. For, with the exception of the few
| large hats one sees, which, by the way, re-
| mind one Of Gairsboroughs every hat is
worn off the face This is q quick and
! starting change from the summer and
| spring models, which all tilted over ones
| nose at such an angle that a woman with
| her hat on was as liable to collide with the
| coming pedestrians is a bicycle scorcher
But this is all changed. Some hats have
/
| and wings or feathers radiating away from
ut; some hats have a knot of velvet and
! wings standing straight up from it. but
| however The trimming is started. WhiC heVer
| way it points, it is away from the front
There is q good deal of complaint Of the
| new toques. They are said to be broad and
| clumsy. For the majority of women, how
! ever, the new toque is less trying than the
| Old The majority of them are made of
| velvet, but there are toques to be bought,
| and one can also have toques made of felt
| 81 parhay,C la ICE.
| tory and sensible purchase for hat to be
| worn on most occasions would be a felt
| toque Of some color which harmonized with
| but did rot match the gown with which il
would see the most service. For Just now
| hats harmonic with gowns, while it is re-
| served from some part of their trimming
! to match some part of the gown. For in
| stance, a nat or bonnet which has Cerise
| bows upon 1t is worn with a neck ribbon of
| the same shade.
| GainsborOughs Still Lead.
! Although there are a few beautiful large
| hats which bear a resemblance to the
| graceful Gainsborough in the catching up
| of the left side with a buckle, and others
which are a modification to the shepherdess
| 81 ape, which was fancied in the spring
yet large hats are not to he worn to any
| great extent. They have retired to their
| proper sphere, receptions and carriage
| hats, and for shopping, walking and ali
| ordinary pursuits there are the turbans
/
! full little fets which will, by and by, APP
| pear trimmed rather deliberately, but which
| now are only to be seen in untrimmed
state.
| From an artistic standpoint the hats this
year are much more promising than they
| have been for some time. There is little
| scattering of the trimming. 1t almost al
ways centerS in one spot either on the
| left side or right in front, and from that
! the hat seems to go down, if one may
| use such an expression about hat, to the
| outer edge. For instance, a toque of gold
en- brown velvet Shown at an open
| ing yesterday which was quite high on
| the left side AID quite low on the right.
| The velvet had been laid in soft folds,
| which seemed to radiate in circles from
the crown of the head On the left side
| were three double curled quilts. These
| quilts are made of two quilts put together,
then over them is put a speckled or iri-
descent feather, often that of owl. The
| effect is exceedingly novel. These quilts
Were held in place by a knot of velvet and
| a buckle of brilliants. One would say this
| was an exceedingly simple hat. But the
touch of an artist is necessary to give
those soft, crinkled folds to velvet and that
| look of sufficient height to the quilts and
upturned left side without making the
| whole hat clumsy. Although all the new
| hats are said to turn up on the left side,
! when one is describing them, as matter
| of fact they turn up very much front of
| the left side, so that it Is not over ones
ear that the highest point is, but almost
| as far front as the temple. This. of course,
| does not include the hats which turn up
exactly in the middle Of the front. All
| OF these hats seem designed for women
| with low foreheads, but women with
| intellectual foreheads are again wearing
fringes they, too, can appear in the pre-
vailing fashion of headgear.
To have the very latest one must have a
| made, and not trimmed hat; that is, if
there is a felt foundation it must be SO
disguised as TO hardly appear. For these
| made hats there are the most beautiful and
rich materials Polka-dotted velvet. gener-
ally in brilliant blue embroidered with large
| white polka dots; fringed taffetG, in
describably lovely material when made up
into toque, and various velvets enIbroi-
dered with honiton braid or baby ribbon,
make head coverings which would have
been coveted by the Queen of Sheba. Ev
erything is of the most beautiful material
Silk and velvet flowers peep from under the
brim the rare occasions when hats are
| still trimmed in the back. Ostrich plulnes,
not content with being long and curling
have become double; that is, a long
| plume, about half way down, is grated an
other plume of the same color, but q diff
| ferent shade. Thus a lavender velvet hat
one of the few large shapes seen, has q |
covering of shirred malines lace, is turned