davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

the same. Whether this movement viii
result In diversity Of styles. similar
10 that which characterized the first
rev years of this century. remains to
pc seen. The present tendency seems
10 De toward classic draperies and
cnnSlng, snaky effects. and at the the
atre the other evening two girls in the
orchestra, evidently prospective mem
Ders OF the new club, were discussing
one OF the costumes worn by Elsie de
Woife in Catherine" and specializing
as to how the design could be modified
suInclently TO meet the requirements
OF originality without sacrificing the
characteristic features of the gown.
gathered from their talk that there was
soon to be a costume party in upper
tendon, at which each lady would
wear dress of her own designing. BY
the time the curtain went up on the
third act it was arranged that the
blonde girl should call on the brunette
the next afternoon and see a dress
which the latter had just evolved from
her inner consciousness. and which she
herself pronounced "a dear"
The dressmakers are inclined to
smile at the new fad: it doesn't trouble
them in the least. for they know that
while fashionable women may find
amusement for a. season in designing
costumes, they have neither the skill
nor patience to make up their own de-
signs; so the dressmaker's occupation
Is secure ELSIE BARKER.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
(speelal Corresnonaence.l


New York, Dec. 14.-It was a novelty
at the beginning of the winter for
those who wore sober green and brown
street gowns to dash in the necessary
high lights by the use of brilliant
breast knots Of natural flowers. Niolets
used 10 be the chosen walking flower,
but now = woman, muffied to her ears
in Persian lamb or sable, pins on her
left breast, a fat bouquet, as big,
nearly, as a dinner plate, of purple
orchids or scarlet carnations, backed
with a widespread fan of maidenhair
fern. A great deal of attention is
given to the method of Dinning these
in place. A rosette of ribbon, echoing
placed as to wholly cover the stems.
In the evening sDangles still reign
supreme and golden sequins on a
black or white transparency is the
highest achievement of the dress
makers are. But not by the use of
spangleS alone is one entitled to a
front seat among the Well-dressed, for
the sDangleS are only one element in
the lavish commentator of the goods
sold for evening wear. SDangles and
pearls, sDangles and cut crystal beads
and ribbon trimming, all three ap-
piled to wide meshed silk net. or
spangles wrought in with white velvet
ribbon and gilt braid, are among the
faVorite combinations. An exquisite
evening dress destined to be ultimately
worn by Mrs. Astor was of white
satin, over which fell a skirt of black
silk muslin. At intervals the muslin
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
HOW TO make UP"
Very Best Way to Apply Cosmetics
to the FACE.


Although nothing is more to be de-
plored than any attempt at makeup
for ordinary social functions, it is some
times necessary to resort to artificial
devices for fancy dress parties, or anna
teur theatricals. For these rare Occa-
sions it may be done in such a way IS
to be entirely harmless, and indeed the
process must always be performed with
the greatest delicacy and federation
in order to have the results satisfac-
tory. 1t goes without saying that only
the very best materials should be used
After washing the face, neck and
arms in very hot water sponge them
lightly with eau de cologne and water,
or toilet vinegar and water, and when
quite dry rub the entire surface with
some good cream, which is neither-
sticky nor greasy. Then powder the
neck and arms very thicl1ly with some
good powder. Now. with a hare's fOOt.I
apply very little of the best rouge toi'
the cheeks, shading it off naturally att
the edges, and powder the face WelF
over. Take a large piece of fine, cleanS
wash leather, and rub the powder I'M
well on face, neck and arms 1t is thiSi
polishing process that gives the soft,i
natural appearance to the cOmpleXiOn-
The carmine for the lips must be ap-l
piled with great care, following accur-i
ately the natural outline. Smears at
the corners have an abominable ap-l
pearance.
For darkening the eyelashes and
brows, the following homemade prepa-s
ration is the best: Burn a champagne
cork. until it will crumble easily to-
powder. Put it in a saucer, and whenj
you have rubbed it quite smooth, dropl
pure glycerine on it, and stir until it,
becomes liquified, about the consistence.
of gum. Apply with q VerV fine camel'S
hair brush.
To remove the makeup, cover your.
face with cold cream, rubbed on slight-l
~. Let it remain for a minute or two.
and then rub off with a soft old linen
handkerchief; wash your face we'll with
hot water and pure soap. rinsing it off
with a dash of cold water.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

goes without saying that most of the
old family servants seen everywhere
nowadays must have been manufac-
tured to meet the ever-growing demand
for ancient and respectable retainers.
MRS. GEBHARDT'S CLUB.
When a group of pretty society girls.
with Mrs. Fred Gebhardt in the center.
are seen earnestly talking together, the
chances are that they are not discuss
ing the opera or somebody's engage
ment, but are making plans for the new
club in which that charming young
matron is trying to interest all her
friends. The sole object of the club is
to foster individuality in dress, each
member pledging herself to design all
her own costumes and to induce as
many other women as possible to do
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

was cut out in spaces as large as the
palm of ones hand. and patterns of
black lace heavily worked with gold
spangleS and grey pearls We're let in.
Another costume for an equally
fashionable woman was of willow
green satin garnished with raised
flowers, made all of ostrich Dlumage
stripped from the stem and fastened
down with embroidery stitches. The
pattern followed was that of Virginia
Clematis, and as the wearer Of this
glorifed raiment moved about the
petals. if one NAV so call them, Of the
flowers waved and Vibrated at every
step.
1t would require the aid of a color
lists brush to convey a genuine notion
of the sDlendors of some of these
modern evening gowns, and yet they
are not all by any means as costly as
they sound. Spangles are more radiant
than expensive, unless one undertakes
TO wear the new oacettes that are
lately over from France. These are of
all sizes and are colored differently on
either face. Most beautiful are those
called amaranthine, a strange green
ishgold on one side and deeply Dur
pie on the other. They are not at
Jached 10 the fabric by means OF holes
through the center, but must be so set
on that at every motion they swing
about, showing first one side and then
another. A black velvet costume
resplendent with a vine motif worked
out in amaranthine soangles is one of
the sights that would have filed King
Solomon with humble establishment
A VICE REGAL SLEEVE.
In a discourse on evening dress it
would be incomplete not to mention
the new arm decorations that go by
the title of the vice regal sleeve. Lady
CurZon herself originated this fashion,
which comes to US from India. where
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

ants have really been in the family one
month or forty years; but they must
be in evidence on all ceremoniOus Occa-
sions. a christening, in order to be up
to date, must have the young mothers
old nurse lowering around, looking
anxiously and tenderly at baby, while
the old. gray-haired butler and the
housekeeper, in her stiff black silk, are
as necessary to the fashionable we'd
ding reception as the orange blossoms
or the bridegroom. 1t looks rather odd
but, then, many new-fangled things
do-to see the bride give the third
piece of wedding cake to an old serv-
ant, especially if one happens to know
that what is supposed to be a reward
for years of faithful service is be-
slowed upon an old woman who never
saw the bride until the rage for family
servants began a few months ago. AS
the genuine article is certainly rare
now in America, even in the south it
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

ing in front. Mink and chinchilla and
smoked Russian fox are the bonnets
most sought after, While their close
rivals art toques of antique velvet in
automobile, pervenche and dahlia, with
three brown eagle quilts cooked up in
front. By day women continue to ar
range their hair according to the die
tates of individual taste and comfort,
while by night the rule seems to be
steadily in favor of lofty couture.
Gauze butterflies with spangled
wings and bullion bodies measure
sometimes eight inches from tip to tip
of pinions, and such queens of clothes
land as Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish, Mrs.
GCelet, etc, carry all their hair up in
small, tall knot forward of the crown.
This pushes a. light pompadour over the
brow. To the small, tall knot is fast
ened a huge bow of black velvet rib
bon that is not wrinkled, and through
the hair the knot is passed and crossed
by two long pronged pins, shaped like
hat skeWers and showing most fanci~
full jeweled beads.
This is a head decoration easy to
copy, for the hatpins of French gilt
with heads of large, irregular pearls
and paste diamonds show off to great
advantage and small outlay by night.
Jottings made here and there in the
realms where goodly and various raj
ment occupies large time and thought,
record the extensive use still made of
black taffeta. Women continue to
wear whole gowns Of it at home, and
in the mornings, and instead OF bands
of black velvet, they show the crisp.
dusIly surface of skirt and body pow
dered DER with large and small. loose
hanging black silk dots. Let it be mem
toned in stage whisper that any Wo-
man who is ambitious 10 follow the
latest fashion can buy box of these
bots or balls very cheap, and herself in
one morning tack a score of hundreds
on to her black taffeta costume.
REMUNERATION OF SHAWLS.
There is every indication that before
the next new skirt pattern comes out
there viii be no more honored article
of wearing apparel quoted than the
hitherto humble and inconspicuous
shawl. For a good dozen of lustrums
the shawl has hidden its diminished
size and fringe in the wardrobes of
elderly ladies. Without the least warn
ing the shawl has become exceedingly
modish.
Exquisite creped liberty silk squares
with fringed edges and colored borders
in Persian pattern are an essential part
just now of the evening toilet The
crepe squares are sometimes deliciously
embroidered, or even painted, and as
sumo in good part the duty long full
filed by the boa. AT home in the after
noon women wear exquisite imported
Japanese shawls of mingled wool and
silk in pigeon throat purple. or white
and pine leaf-green pinned like capes
on either shoulder, so that the front
points can be thrown back or drawn
forward at will. while in the rear tho
shawl hangs like a large, loose hood,
new fringed silk shawl very much
worn, woven in the shape of a Scotch
mans plaid or a torreadors scarf, is
caught on one shoulder and allowed to
swing clear or is drawn up close about
the figure. Less costly than these are
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

the less sleeve you wear. the greater
your physical comfort.
Inside the arm. from the shoulder
strap down, passes to the wrist a band
Of 5ewcled lace, or painted muslin, or
embroidered satin. 1t is only two
inches and half wide. and it is held
to the arms by means Of a lacing Of
pearl strings, or gold cords, or ribbons
that catch in eyelets along either edge
Of the outside of the arm. This forms
a lattice work, through which the
round, smooth member shows prettily,
and at the back Of the hand the strings
of pearls, or cords or ribbons knot in
q long bunch and fan over the fingers.
The evening boa is not only not OBJ
solete, but is more in evidence this sea
son than ever before. Smart women
wear them to the knees. made of the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

and the corners knotted in front
Through the knot is run three eagle
quilts. The larger hat of Chasseur
shape is smoke-gray velvet, orna-
mented with large paste buckle in
front, from which flow back two long
periwinkle blue plumes.
The children in the sketch represent
what young people are wearing for fes-
tive functions this winter. Their pima
fores on sober, everyday occasions are
as often as not made of brown Turk
ish linen, beautifully decorated in linen
embroidery done in blue, red and green.
the only stitch being the simple crisis
cross that the eastern mediterranean
know so well how to use, 1t is notice.
able that corduroy for boys, as we'll as
girls, is more than ever in use this
winter, and that children have all but
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

broidered this way and that over the
waistcoat front. while the back is
of heavy, double-faced satin drawn in
at the waistline under ribbon band
and silver or jewel set buckle. The
gayest buttons fasten up these waist
coats that skating and sleighriding
and snow golfing women affect and
with which they wear their watches
exactly rs men do.
Long and most interesting are the
runes that relate to the newest
fangles in taffeta silk skirts. The
derniere cri, as the Parisians say, is
a skirt of storms gray taffeta velours,
that fits like q tire to q wheel as far
down as the knees and then flares or
is thrown out to use dressmakers'
vernacular. All around it touches the
ground and then to accentuate this
bell bottom aspect, a f1ounce of crisp
silk muslin is cut out on the slope,
accordion Dleated and edged with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

softest liberty silk peoples petals, fall
ing one thickness over the other. The
center of the boa is usually a long roll
as big as ones finger stuffed with wool
and thoroughly impregnated with
souvenir du jardin, a delicate and pop
ular new perfume.
There are not many things more
fashionable this month than fur toques
or tiny pcmpadour bonnets with one
exalted, dazzling white feather flaunt-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

same before each other meal; after dat
for Won week take only night and
morning. In two week, behold me as
now"
Reader, 1 have followed the above
advice for ,''von hat week only, and al
ready my skin seems like "th0t of a lit
tie child" To those who desire to
change a thick unrespOnsive skin for q
clear, bright complexion, this simple
and practical advice is gladly given ~
a conValescent.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

gans of very real value and comfort.
and they utilize as we'll the wadded
waistcoats. These are cut as high
or low as you please in front, are
most often of dull, soft silk outside.
and a light layer of perfumed lambs
wool lying between the outside and
the lining is stitched in diamond form
and the brightest silk.
Occasionally, in place of mere ma
chine stitching, delicate vine is en-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
A WILD-RoSE SKIN.
Swedish Nurse Imparts Secret of a
Beautiful Complexion.

When a Swedish woman has a clear,
beautiful skin. it rivals almost in ex-
quisite loneliness the bloom of the
English rose" or her cousin, the
''Americal lily" To lie in bed and be
waited on by nurse with wild-rose
complexion and to discover that when
health returns one may hope to attain
to such a complexion by the use of very
simple means, seems to make up in
some degree for the weary days in bed
ooh, nurse, if I only had your COM
plexioni" IF I could change my duh
spotted skin for one like yours, it seems
to me 1 would be willing to jump into
q barrel of boiling oil"
well, den, mees," was the reply,
you can hat it, sure, if you do but one
leetle ting. My skin vas all spots vat
you call 'peemples,' and the doctor he
say it change of climate. He den tell
me to buy twenty fve-cent worth
phosphate of soda 1 take a teaspoon
full in glass warm water at bed time,
and de same before breakfast. Tt not
nasty. So, for Won week also take the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

ruche of pinked-gray taffeta and
muslin. In consequence of these
maneuvers a woman in such a skirt
is apt to measure thirty-six inches
about the hips and a hundred and
thirty-six around her feet, but this is
quite as it should be, for all her car
riage and evening, house and calling
toilets come under approximately the
same dimensions.
ILLUSTRATIONS OF FASHIONS.
The two hats given this week tell
their own tale. They are both of an
tique velvet, their folds disposed over
cinnoline frames. The velvet is drawn
up handkerchief-shape in the toque,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

scarf shawls of wool gauze, with bands
of bullion or colored silk alternating
with the wool.
THE COSY CARDIGAN.
Comment and experiment are
equally busy with the cardigan jackets
and smart quilted silk waistcoats that
skaters wear or that women ADOPT
indoors over thin shirtwaists. The
caSdigans are exactly as men wear
them, save that a little silk is mixed
with the wool of which they are
quilted In the majority of cases the
cardigans are done in dull smoke gray,
reseda green, brown and mid-ocean
blue wool. but bound about the edges
with silk ribbon of a clear and pene-
trating color. Women who cling to
capes as wraps have found the cardi-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
OuTSHONE THE DIVA
Radiant Mrs. AstOr's Triumph OF
Dress and Beauty.
EVEN WAGNER FORGOTTEN
HER MONOPOLY OF ATTENTION
AT OPERA.
New Story of Teddy Roosevelt's For
getfu1ness and Self-helpfulness
Late Fad of Society.
EVEN WAGNER FORGOTTEN

Mrs. John Jacob Astor is certainly
radiant creature. On the opening night
of the opera she showed not a trace of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

usurped the use of brown beaver as
the fur trimming for their cloaks, caps
and caDes.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18

holding a sloppy flannel bathing suit at
arms length.
1T doesn't do for a man to humor
himself too much,' he said, smiling at
Mrs. Roosevelt. Il would never succeed
in breaking my bad habits if 1 allowed
you to spoil me-"
That rigorous se,f-discipline doubtless
contributed a great deal toward making
Teddy Roosevelt so good a soldier, and
it is sure to make him good governor,
and possibly a good president after
1900; but no matter how high the posi-
ton he may be called upon to fill, his
best role will always be that of hus-
band to the modest little woman at
OYSTER Ray
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
THE OLD FAMILY sERvANT.

These people who pride themselves on
the perfection of their menage, but who
do not happen to have a number of old
family servants, are now trying to sup
ply the deficiency by borrowing them
from other members of their family.
who may be more fortunate in that re-
gard. If they cannot borrow them of
relatives, they will buy them, or hire
them; but to be without them is to be
quite out of the fashion. 1t doesn't
make very much difference, so long as
nobody knows it, whether the old serv-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
COLORS IN COSTUMES
Flowers Used to Brighten Dull-hued
Dresses.
CORRECT THING In SKIRTS
MUST FIT CLOSE AS FAR AS THE
KNEES.
CORRECT THING In SKIRTS

Lofty coiffures Adopted Exclusively
By Fashionable Women of New
York-TalI Pompadour Over Brow,
Big Velvet Bow and skewered
With Gold Pins.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-12-18
Had to Go.

Chicago RecordJ
I'VE are worried about Julia; she cot
out of a sick bed to go to the matinee
How could she2"
She had to so; she had a ticket
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1898-12-21
INSANE MANS FRRAK.

Starts an Engine aud Dafna
Machinery to tho Extent or 500
special Dispatch to the IntaiiiSonsar.
cHARLEsTowN. W. VA. Dec. 2es-
Philip Frederick EichelbersrE a. man
Of unsound mind claiming to be the San
Of the late Frederick Eichelberser. cf
Hampshire county, West YlrSiIias
wandered to this place early this Hi6Fn-
ing and went Into the engine house nf
the JEFFERSON Milling company TO warm
himself While standing by the engine.
which was running, he conceived the
idea that he would stop It. as he said
cease"
He raised the heavy weight on the
lever OF the steam chest while the en@
full head OF steam, which made the
large engine shake and tEamble. and
started the machinery running 1t teEa,
rfbIe rate. He let 90 OF the hail IN q
moment, but not until several parts o.
the machinery were broken and dam
aged to the extent Of $500.
Elchelberger was taken IN charge
and placed in jail, and the authorities.
OF Hampshire county communicated
with. He said he was once confined In
the asylum at Weston, and was dte-
charged as cured, and left home be-
cause his family We're going to return
him to the asylum. He says he Is salle,
but DR.. Nell, who examined him, 8ay9
otherwise. He Will be held until sent
fNF
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1898-12-21
A WARNING CRY
Against the Seating ofthe Polygamist
Congressman Roberts,

Congressman Roberts,
NEW YORK, Dec. 2O-There were
about 200 persons present Mt the meet-
ing OF the woman's Board OF Home
Missions OF the Presbyterian church In
this city to-day. The object OF the.
meeting was to inaugurate an aggres-
sIve campaign to prevent the seating Of
Brigham n. Roberts, an avowed poiyg-
amist, as representative from Utah N
the Afty-siXth congress.
The Rev. William r. Campbell, OF
Salt Lake City, introduced Eugene
Young, q grandson Of Brigham Young
and Mrs. Fannie Stenhouse. Mr..
Young said among other things: "There
seems to be disposition in the East,
particularly among the politicians, but
even among the churches, 70 treat the
revival OF the Mormon issue as q minor
matter. There Is an inclination to view.
the election to congress OF B. a. Robert
"a three or fOur-ply poiygamist. stlll
living in polygarng, as an unavoidable
outcome OF that condition IN Utah and
a mere question of personal morality.
Some day they will see, as those who
-llEAaN doFraOn ambitions zee 1oTt tilat
Mr.. Roberts is q mere Instrument the
representative Of mighty forces. They
wifi learn that through his election 9
people 100000 strong have turned from
American liberty and American morale
ity and have taken the Initial step to-
wards the establishment Of hieratchV
foreign to our institutions and our
social laws. in the midst OF our repubs
lie. III In dragging polygamy into the.
house OF Representatives Mr.. Roberts 81
representing the defiant sentiment Of
the whole Mormon people, then the peo-
pie must not rest until congress has
cast him out as warning to all cove-
nant breakers and all polygamista,