New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-04-29
FASHIONS AND THE WAR.
HOW AMERICAN MoDIsTEs HAVE BEEN
BENEFITED.
GOWNS BUILT IN THE UNITED STATES THAT
RIVAL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF

pONNs DULL IN THE UNITED STATES lhhi
RIVAL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF
FOREIGN CREATIONS.
II is an Ill wind that blows nobody any good and
the war which has stopped the yearly exodus TO
Europe Of fashionable danes. and their consequent
large orders from the great Partisan houses, has
already given quite impetus to home dress
makers. who are putting forth all their energies
satisfy customers who have heretofore been
turned OUT by Worth and the other artists OF
worldwide fame. Certainly OF the home
made products lately might we'll satisfy the most
fastidious
Two charming conceptions from wel-known
American ateier bear comparison with the best
French models. One is gown OF gray satin cloth.
trimmed with silver embroidery. over a transpar-
ency Of red lilac satin. The skirt which
is perfection in the way Of cut, has the en-
broidery running up on either side OF the front
breadth. rather wide at tho bottom and dimn-
ishing to fine tracery 1t reaches the
waist The bodice is a ow-neclSed blouse. with
square revers over the shoulders. which
cred with silver embroidery over the transparency
OF red lilac The neck Of the bodice is cut In three
scaops in front. In the centre one Of which the
fulness of the blouse Is wn together. making
long pleat. with single each side On
either side OF the blouse is running design Of the
embroidery. like that the skirt The empiece-
ment OF the neck and the collar are Of pleated
satin. to match that Of the transparency
The second gown is Of light tan-coored cloth.
and the skirt is composed of six .breadths. which
aro Tapped. and cut on. in squared tabs at each
one on The third These as WI we'll 1 as the Iapp"d
scam. stitched with four rows Of stitching. the
tabs being held down b. six small silk buttons OF
the color the cloth. The blouse waist is
open from the neck and the belt. the edges fin
ished with stitching like the cams Of the skirt and
revers turned over the shoulders and the breast.
These are cut in Two tabs. the deepest being
tho shoulders. and the next ana small er
being the breast. The opening AZ the
neck Is filed IN win bou' ne, OF st[ Ira
Another American gown of great distinction Is OF
a@e sG boae "S sh
Of an inch Of black grosgran delicate tracery OF
bottom OF the skirt s cut up in three Sits. The
first two either side Of the fourth breadth are
W IN the they Ws ss asou It" COUPLE Of
the slit being shorter and the third shorter
braided pattern. which continues around the
bottom Of the skirt and on the front breadth has
centre Of the front breadth. The sleeves have four
sashes az the top showing the PACK S sfo rsdng
like that on the skirt. The empiecement at the
neck IS Of white tae. The collar is black sr1 so
grain stock with TWO ends. one hanging over. the
other edged with white guipure. tabier 'front.'.
richly trimmed contrasting sharply with ne , rSss
on an elegant gown intended for an older woman
The material IS OF black brocade ana the ,apss
with white gupure. quite wide at the bottom ana
graduated to point at the waist. while the Waist
itself Is nearly covered with guipure hcnu' ~nich
Is finished N the neck with a run.
Mirror v,lvcts will be great deal used tnis
lighter aupearance than ordinary velvet which was
generally associated with winter and cold weatneT
4 pale green crepe de Chine gown. trimmed WIZ,
groom MIRROR velvet OF the same shade. ncrusted
Nm aco apPcatlons Is Of rare S sss Bodice IN
front is crossed surpce fashion, fastened on one
SIDE The band OF velvet WHICH DENIES ines the inside
- his on the bodice. Is boa OF pale green
cbif,on Tho small aperture left at the neck neing
hllcd ~ with hiGh collar ana s'ha''
Of rosc-co.ored fallle. $500 49,, .,.,, a.
Another new gown built in this country 10 a
bannv continuation Of style and simplicity Il ~
. ,rouesalira de sole rose over taneta unuet,
Sim Tho moussellno skirt Is ACCORDION ples'rru
III or,,,uoted pieats being small and nat AT INC
~, mi daring out at the bottom and mas gar
lands Of Insertion let in at the bottom, ,,.vod u,tb
Tho vais, ls also accordion pleated. renewed W."
,,scr,,or and IL trimmed at the neck with turneu,
nver reycrs OF rose colo:ed mirror velvet oei' VI
,he same encrcng the waist