The record-union., 1898-05-15

from toe to shoulder straps The small
Hat sequin is not any longer the only
kind used, for the newest are ring ana
oval spangles, worked in with the disk
in most complicated patterns, and just
now the whole effort is after japanese
designs. A black net petticoat, show
ing cycle moon on the front breadth,
toward which, from all parts of the
dusky skirt, black and silver bats are
flying, is almost a conventional pattern
SO remarkable are some of those we
see. One adorable white tuIle creation
was, for example, most wondrously
worked in all its nistlike labyrinth OF
fullness, with twinkling schools of
bright little fish, flashing blue, gold,
silver and green in the gaslight Not
less remarkable and alluring was a toi-
let of turquoise blue gauze, in the lower
lefthand side of which, in front of the
skirt, flew bird of gorgeous metallic
blue palettes. The remainder of the
petticoat was illumined with gold and
black arrows shot through the mesh of
the drapery in showers toward the gilt
tering fowl With such skirts as these
similarity spangled or flower draped
bodies are worn. The last mentioned is
the latest arrival at the court of fash
ion. A flower body is first built up
from a close decGllete basque of satin
that hooks together at the back. Over
this net is draped and on the net flow
ers are sewed. Small flowers and fine
leaved vines, such as violets, forget-me-
nots, speedwell, hyacinth bells, heath,
ETC., are adapted to this purpose. To
the skirts, chiefly in black and white,
the flowers give delicate and CRATE
full tone of color With such suits long
gloves are worn in rarest tints of
mauve and pearl pink, sky gray and
tourmaline green. At the tops of the
long arm bags there is now a pretty
fancy for gathering full Pierrot frills,
an inch or two deep of white tulle and
speckling them with spangles. But the
tangent to which sleeves have mo-
mentarily run is that of wearing
spangled lace arm bag, extending from
the wrist to within about three or four
inches of the shoulder-ftted straps
attach these to the shoulder and short
gloves are necessarily worn.
| Soft gray tulle, orange velvet in two
distinct shades "a spray. of mignonette,
a cluster of Mermet roses, two large
standing ostrich plumeS of orange col
or shading to white on the tips, and
buckle of very brilliant Irish dia-
monds, compose model for dress hat
made by a French artist.
The blouse effect remains on the i'm
mediate front of many bodices, but
blouses entire have given place to
closely fitted waists with almost seam
/ less backs, deeply curved under-arm
seams, and an effect of a waist very
/ closely fitted. On over-slender figures,
| these tight fitting, outlining bodiiceS are
relieved very much by the addition of
short bolero and other jackets Of lace
or fancy silk, by buckled ribbon straps,
coming up to the center of the waist
| front and back from the under-arm
seams, by horizontal or diagonal lines
of insertion, silk gimp tucking and
/ other trimmings which produces a
broadening appearance beyond the
revers or vest front.
The old-fashioned princesse- shaped
underslip is very much in fashion this
year, cut with a rounded or square
shaped half-low neck and short sleeves.
| These must be quite as long as the
demi- trained dress, and be fitted as
carefully at the upper part, and nave
/ deep Spanish founce set on full on
the lower portion, while to insure the
| needful elaboration about the hem
| three very narrow frills are added to
| the fiounce-these pinked on eacn edge,
neatly shirred and set very closely TO
each other. These frills aid greatly IN
producing the sudden flare of the skirt
about the feet which appears on all
fashionable gowns. Silks of various
! kinds, of course, remain first choice
/ for these slips, but tinted lawns in pink,
mauve, blue, green and other light sum-
mer shades are used by fashionable
modistes in making up number or IN
expensive hot-weather gowns for after-
noon wear Most of these dresses are
merely intended for the one season, and
the matter of their being done up IS
not thought of in their creation. Ii with
good care they last the summer season,
| this is all that is expected OF them, ana
the skirts and bodices are elaborately
| trimmed with lace-edged ruches, frllls,
pleatings, etc, the waists of imported
models having very often an additional
lace bolero or fichu, pretty net yoke
and sleeves, or a guimpe russo OF very
| fine embroidery
All shades of blue are fashionable
from the deepest fieur-de-lis dyes to the
faintest forget-me-not tints. The IRIS
and lavender blues appear in cloth cos
tunes relieved with white guimpes,
blouse vests, ETC., and white silk galloon
trimmings. They also appear among
silk-lined tailor costumes OF fancy
grenadine and etamine, basket-par-
termed fabrics in silk and wool, drap
d'Alma, nuns yelling, ETC., and among
evening toilets in crepe de chine, silk
grenadine, and summer brocade
Open mesh or semi-transparent fab
rics are the materials used in making
some of the handsomest and most fash-
ionable gowns for the coming season.
Frequently these dresses are mounted
over foundations of figured instead OF
patterned silk or satin, and some very
novel and pretty effects are thus pro-
duced under the semi-diaphanous tex
tiles.
Included among the new silks are
Kaiki and Habutai wash varieties IN
checks, stripes, plaids and plain unpaI-
termed weaves, daintily printed Shaunt-
ungs, in natural gray and ecrus, and
delicately tinted monochromes, taffetas
in checked, barred and large -plaided
patterns. chine, pontelle, rainbow. ana
glace effects Pompadour silks with sat
in stripes, silk and satin foulards, bas-
ket-patterned Victorias, gros-grains IN
fine and heavy reps, in beautiful spring
and summer shades, duchess and Lux
or satins both in black and colorS, ami