Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-06-18

boats sail. and looking down upon m, is
the snowy peak of Illampu, which. next
to Aconcagua. in Chile is the highest of
the Andes. During the past week 1 have
been travelling among the most wonderful
mountains of South America and / am
Low in region which has not its counter
part upon the planet Here and in other
parts of the mountains of Peru are the
hisnest places where people live. During
my "trip up the Oroya railroad l found a
village OF about 200 souls at an altitude Of
more than three miles above the sea- There
Is mining camp in the Peruvian Andes
which is more than 1000 feet high. and in
crossing the desolate plain known as the
Pampa DE Arrieros 1 stopped some time
at Eincocya. where there is a locomotive
round house higher up in the air than
the top of Pixies Peak. In coming here I
travelled for two days over one of the
steepeSt railroads of the world and now nj
Instance or more than 800 miles from the
racine, L am on the great plateau which
lies between the two ranges of the Andes
varying in altitude from II OO0 tn n nOo
Ieet above the sea / am hundreds of miles
soutH oi the point where 1 crossed the
sea- mountains from Lima. and in
region where. the Andes are more grand
tnan at any point in the 1000 miles of
their length. Think of a mountain whieh
towers up into the skies so that its rag
SNOWY summit is Tour miles above
the ieEel or the ocean. Imagine If Won,
can others which are over 10000 feet high
MAKE wall OF such mighty hills and
paint them In the wonderful colors, shades
anu UNITS OF the AnGean skies and YOU can
get faint idea of my SURROUNDINGS
nave with me many books upon Soutb
America but | fail to find in them any a.
scrpilons of the scenic effects of these
mountains This is the region of all Others
Tor the artist. and as vet no great artist
has attempted TO transfer these wonder
1uI pictures to canvas.
Pictures From the Andes
My trip over the Andes was a continuous
panorama Let me give you my notes of
the scenes along the route as jotted them
down on the way i begin at Mollendo on
the Pacific ocean. II is a ragged town on
Inc ragged coast of the Peruvian desert
The ship lies out in the harbor and tho
SUR rolls IN with great force. striking the
rocks and sending its diamond spray fftv
1eet upward into the air The Ia rbor +.
rousher than that of Jaffa, and nv bag
Egg Is lowered INTO bounding boat over
! sIIe sue Oh the steamer. l have to lump
ITO the boat when 1t is on the crest of the
waves, and i feel my stomach rise ne !
Sink DOWN INTO the deep. The landing is so
had that men and baggage are often
iio~h INTO the water. and am told that
the insurance companies ALWAYS charge
oht-elShth OF d per cent more on all goods
shipped 10 IollendO. | am rowed 70 tbn
shore by brawny, coffee-colored boatmen
if iittI'5 huge rocks Now We run into a
hshter which is bringing out cargo for the
steamer and are nearly capsized Now NE
Craze a great boulder and at the wharf 7
nave 10 jump when the boat is on the cres1
OF the wave to get a footing on the stans
MY baggage cannot be landed except by
means Of a crane. and pay four men TWO
dollarS to carry my heavy trunks up the
mus 10 the custom house. A little later on
L am seated in the car on NV wnv 10 Ar.
QulId- Wnicn, though only nh
from the coast, is higher up in the air than
the top OF Mt Washington. Our train frs.
skirts The coast. and then shoots off ;cto
the bare hills of the desert There is ,ot \
shrub. not a yestige of green We cI;r,h M
a per cent grade. winding about in horse
shoe curves. At places we see the tracks
over winch We have passed running paral-
lei with, but far below us. Now we arc on
a side of the mountain facing the oceon
The sky-blue Pacific. hazy and smokv
stretches out toward the west until Ire
delcate blue fades into that of the sky A
pdtch OF reddish gray sand skirts the foot
Of the brown velvet hills and this is divid-
ed from the sky-blue water by the siIverv
strip OF surf which is dashing its waves
upon the shore. The scenery changes at
almost every turn Of the wheel There Is
20 place where nature clothes the earth in
such royal garments here. At times the
ADDE'S are great masses OF blue and brown
plush Inc clouds OF the sky. though of a
eecy Wilderness, paint velvet spots OF
many coiors upon the hoary hills. and al
times l. seems though all the ink hot
ties of the heavens had been scattered over
the mountains At other times the SIM
tints the mountains with the most delicat r.
blues which fade into lighter tints o. blues
In the distance till the whole horizon seems
DiHowy, waTing sea of blue busted with
silver. which meets and loses itself in a
silver-biue sky. Winding in and out among
such hills. We rise to a great desert known
a.; the Panlpa de Islay. Here everything
Is gray and dazzling white. There are hun.
dreds of huge mounds of moving sands
which are travelling slowly but surely owe,
the plain There are tons OF bleaching
bones OF animals which have died in tryinp
10 cross the desert waste, and the only an.
parentiy living things are the mIraees
which now and then deceive the Traveller
with the Idea that they are cool lakes in.
vortel cities or Gases OF vegetation near a,
hand. AT the little town of Vitor a mile
above the ocean, we reach the end OF the
Pampa and again begin to ascend We are
again IN ragged hills and soon are travel
ing among che clouds. We pass through
Ceep cuttings in the mountains and end tbs
first days travel at Arequipa, 1900 fee,
:ifovs the sea.
The Most Expensive Railroad
This road Is said to have greater excaya
lions than any other line of similar length
II IL oao Of the most expensive roads eve
built, having cost S44 900 on for q line n