The Mount Holly news. [volume] (Mount Holly, Burlington Co., N.J.) 1891-1942, 1898-09-20
EATING IN GERMANY
THE sARCASMS OF A VICTIM WHO
SURVIVED ITS CHARMS.

He Kicks All the Way Down the Bill Of
Fare and Il Particularly Irritated Over
e Dish Of Powdered Horse Raslish Served
with Frozen Whipped Cream.
When you have examined the con
stitution of the German cuisine, you
are tempted to grow loquacious. You
arc conscious of having discovered that
the psychology of nation cannot be
constructed upon mere analysis of its
made dishes. Your estimate of Brillat-
Savarin sinks. He could not tell you
what you are, even from all the menus
of your lifetime. Freiligratb's philo-
sophie conclusion that imam Is what
he eats" you straightway qualify at
true only when referring to oannibal-
Ism. And you will aver that only In
the case Of paleolithic man can you
construct man from the crumbs that
fall from his dinner table. And this
you will want to prove, and oonse
quently will grow talkative with pre-
senting of much evidence.
And yet, in your sane moments, you
will have sneaking affection for the
statement that German is German
because he eats what he eats. AS gen
eral rule he may be said to eat five
times day. But his hunger is con-
stantly being stilled.
He starts early in the day with cup
of cafe au lait and small buttered
roll This keeps him going till II
O'Clock, when he demolishes "a slice Of
buttered rye bread spread with slices
of hard boiled egg, raw chopped beef or
cheese. This he washes down with a
glass of ale, thus shilling his inner man
till dinner time. Dinner takes place to-
ward / O'Clock and consists Of soup
generally nouri shing), plate Of meat
with potatoes and fruit (cranberries
prunes or aprioots), occasionally cheese,
seldom sweets, rarely green vegetable.
Three hours later coffee is taken,
served with piece of cake or thick
bread and butter This is the hour pre-
cious to the gossip and the busybody,
the time for spreading scandal. Toward
8 o'clock the appetite again asserts
itself The hour of the ubiquitous san-
sages has arrived. Their name is legion.
and they share the honors with slices
of ham, smoked goose breast, pieces Of
raw picked herring, and in summer
hard boiled eggs and potato salad.
Such is the German method of spread
ing the meals over the day. OF course
there are exceptions Many families
have two ample meals day, but the
bulk of the population eats mostly bat
tered bread and snacks. In justice to
Germany one must say that the fare in
many home will compare favorably
with that of many an American family.
In the German restaurant the cuisine
is on the whole monotonous and the
food 'singularly insipid. All meats seem
to have the same flavor, all are served
with the same heavy, viscous sauces,
and invariably escorted with the same
soaplike potatoes. Stodginess and heavi
ness are the great blots on the German
fare. The element of variety, too, seems
considered superfluous.
In the concrete the subject is almost
too painful to face, the difficulty being
to steer clear of ordinations denoting
positive offensiveness. Some Of the
kiokshaws which figure regularly upon
the German table are reputed to be most
sustaining. They certainly are intense
ly and ostentatiously wonder inspiring.
One preparation is everywhere met
with under the name (more or less pho
netically spelled) of beefsteak la tar
tare. Its basis is raw chopped beef !;
this spread out into pat Of elliptioal
shape, Is crowned with the raw yolk Of
an egg. raw finely chopped onion Is
sprinkled over it, u garniture OF CHER
kins is added, and the whole is eaten
with much gnst-o and no worse eonse-
quenees than durable thirst.
In many of the dishes you discover
all tho humor, feeling and Imagination
of Wagnerian composition. You find
tho resolute desire TO build up harmony
upon discord. OF this nature may be
considered the traditional menu of New
Years eve, carp, pancake and punch.
These three. brought into immediate
juxtaposition and consumed III plethorio
quantities, generally have the desired
eifect-that of inducing a hysterical
good humor.
For stodginess nothing beats the ia
vorite dish. panache. 1t consists Of
picked pork. sour cabbage and a puree
of split peas boiled down TO the con
sistency of stiff dough. Experiments on
this mass produce deplorable capers and
cause one TO grunt mournfully A va
riety of this diet is found in Berlin.
You substitute boiled balls of dough
and Indifferent prunes for the peas and
cabbage, and you have the dish popu-
larly termed ''the Silesian kingdom of
heaven" Gold cells, imbedded in u
translucid. glutinous substance, figure
i'll all workmen's taverns. while roast
goose is de rigueur for all solemnities
A dainty which we have recently
met with in Berlin recalled Darwin's
remark that hardly any experiment is
so absurd as not to be worth trying"
II consisted of finely powdered horse
radish served up with frozen whipped
cream.
One may sum up ones Judgment by
saying of German cooking what the art
critic said of nature, 1T has infinite
potentialities. Not the least Of these
is its ambition to discover victims that
survive its charms only in the form
that the walls of Jericho survived the
trumpet blast of Joshua. -Lippincott 5