The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-03-27

in producing champagne that is free
from what call the earthly taste that
appears to be the inevitable distinction Of
all wines grown on new ground. Then,
too, while a fragrant bouquet should be
considered a desirable quality in any wine,
yet when that fragrance is nothing more
than the loud, untoned perfume of the
grape it lacks the soft quality that makes
the vintage of fair Champagne a drink fit
Those who find merit in the fragrance of
the so-called American champagne would,
Catawba wine, than which there is none
with more pronounced bouquet. In fact
II was after slipping this wine that Long
fellow wrote:
There grows no vine
BY the haunted Rhine,
BY Danube or GuadalquiVir
None on island nor cape,
That bears such a grape
AS grows by the beautiful River.
Very good in it's way
is the VerZenay,
Or the Sillery soft and creamy
But Catawba wine
Has a taste more divine
More dulcet delicious and dreamy
But Longfellow wasn't a tippIer and knew
little about wine. 1t may be patriotic to
commend such vintage, but patriot
not possess that desirable quality who com
mends the Catawba wine. It's sweetness SIS
its bane, and the same objection attaches
to the similar sparkling beverage which
their makers are pleased to term cham
pagnes.
We have in this country but few prom
lnent makers of sparkling wines. One es-
Enlistment had it's beginning in 1866 on
Kelly island, IN the. State of Ohio, which
IS SO extensive that it keeps 100000 bottles
IN stock, and possesses facilities for bot
ting five times that quantity AT Ham
mondsport, in the State of New York are
the establishments of the Pleasant Valley
and Urbana Wine Companies which have
thousands Of acres of grapes under cultiva-
yearly over 100000 bottles and the Urbana
concern does similarly extensive busi-
ness ness. In Jhe Sonoma valley, of California,
the manufacture of sparkling wines is also
carried on with considerable success, and
likewise at Egg Harbor, New Jersey. on
small scale These American wines while
unpalatable TO the refined taste, are harm
less. unfortunately, however, some con-
sclenceless manufacturers in this country
produce similar sparkling beverages which
pear little relation to the product of the
vine: The raw juice of the grape is cleared
py the admixture of gelatine and alum, the
latter chemical imparting to it great bril-
liancy. After being dosed with a flavoring
syrup, the wine is charged like soda water
with earbonic acid gas, which is derived
from the admixture of sulphuric acid and
marble dust. None OF these substances be-
ing pure. the wine becomes impregnated
er OF the nauseating beverage naturally
suffers from headache, a disordered
stomach and all the other ills which are
the natural outgrowth of the use of adult
terated liquor.
Now as to the govt question: The late
Charles A Dana, editor of the New York
Sun, who was one of the most industrious
among the great newspaper men of this
country; was noted for his freedom from
physical ailments He was envied for his
good health. Yet his favo>tta tipple was a
, good, dry champagne, and ne has placvi
upon record his opinion that while the
most excellent red wines will give twinges
or the toes. a dry champagne causes no
such trouble. In the year 1852 before cham
payne had assumed Its effervescing condi-
ton, a young medical student propoundeds
the theory that the wines OF Burgundy We're
preferable 70 those of the Champagne dis
trict, and that the latter were irritating 10
the nerves and conducive to govt The
FACULTY of medicine at Rheims arose in
arms at this assertion. A learned discus
sion ensued. The medical men OF sBeaune
commended that the young disputant was
right. and that the crimson juice of the
province where Charles the Bold had once
hesd sway was entirely harmless The dis
pute spread to the entire medical profess
sioE Of France. lasting for more than a
century. until finally tho fpcuity ar Paris.
70 whom the matter was referred. gave q
final and formal decision IN favor of the
wines OF the Champagne.
So much for the goaf Guessioa.