The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1898-11-05
TO PRESS DRESSES
When Properly Done II Gives the
Finishing Touch to a Fem.
inine Costume.


No matter how carefully made, or
how stylishiy fashioned a garment
may be, its entire good effect is ruined
II it is not carefully and correctly
pressed. Few amateurs realize the
Importance Of this, the finishing
touch of tailor-made perfection; or
if they do appreciate its importnce'
they are unable to cope with its re-
quirements.
The irons should be neither too hot
nor too heavy, and both sides OF each
seam, from the sewing line to the edge
finish, should be we'll pressed down
before any attempt is made to open
the seams fat. This presses the I'M
ishing and saves the risk OF 1t showing
through. If the dress is of very thick
or very springy cloth or SERGE
damp cloth should be laid over the
closed seam and the pressing done
through it, leaving it slightly damp for
the last pressing. After both sides OF
the closed seam have been pressed,
each one may be laid open and pressed
fat with a cooler iron, care being
taken not to stretch the length OF
the seam; and the bust of the dress
leach side of the top of the darts and
a little above them) should be opened,
and great pains taken to press the
extreme tops Of the darts quite hat
out; but the same pains must be
taken not to stretch the dress, at that
part, either down or across. The very
end, only, Of the iron should be used
| there.
The sleeve seams should be pressed,
| first closed and then open, and sleeve
board is certainly an advantage. DIFF
ferent contrivances frequently take
its place-a small cricket bat, broom
handle or rolling-pin being the IA
yorites; but care should be taken that
neither bat nor broomstick has been
painted, and that the rolling-pin has
never been used, or the heat will pro-
duce bad results.
Pressing should always be done on
four thicknesses of woolen stutf-soft
cloth or a blanket covered with a
strong muslin cloth. The iron should
be well cleaned and not too large or
heavy. Tailors use narrow iron'
which runs along the seams; and wom-
en- who make their own dresses would
be wise In having so helpful a com
modify.
ALI fabrics may be ironed in the
same way as woolens, unless they have
q pile, when every care should be taken
not to fatten il; crepons come under
the same head as pile fabrics, ano
should be pressed in the same way
Silk glazes and scorches very quickly
and should therefore be pressed IL
the same way, and with an iron thai
is light in weight and rather cool, and
} indeed. it Is a mistake to use hot irons
in pressing.
Fugitive colors which change t.
brown when heat is applied to them
are very terrifying, as 1t appears tha'
the garment has been spoiled, but, i
: the lining has not been scorched, i
will generally be found that the colo
: comes back when the dress is quit
, cold. Nearly all light blue-grays
stone color, lilac, pale heliotrope ant
the like are fugitive; 1t takes thre
or four hours before the color come
back to them. A safe test is to try
piece of the goods under the iron tn
= day before, and you can then Judg
how much heat it will stand.
= 1t is not advisable for home dress
makers to use the damp cloth to-
largely in pressing. With tailors
whose work is largely upon serges
!. tweeds and firm woolen cloths, we
treatment is best adapted to the re
uuirements Of the material, and
made one of the special features 0
|. their work both in the exquisite finis
d of all seams and edges, and In the skill
d full manipulation by which they impair
n form to garment, while the large mf
e jority of dress materials are so con
). paratively light and thin that we
treatment would injure color, hn1s
|. and texture, causing them to dra'
d ND and look rough and cockled, an
n entirely destroying the delicate al
u rearance Of the fabric.
r. The skirt seams are pressed and tn
l. band put on and hooked securely b'
S fore the lower edge is examined an
d the exact length in all places dete,
n mined. This done, the best means {
h finishing it is to baste narrow hel
p all around and press it firmly a
d around. The binding braid or velvs
7e II put on them entirely by hand an
L. then finally pressed once more, will
IN much more easily removed after 1t ht