The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1898-06-05
FOR FEMININE READERS
STYLISH NOVELTY OF THE SEASON Is
A BLACK SILK OR SATIN COAT.
Literary Clubs Puzzle Miss Gilder-A
Professor CIassifies WOmen-Way
of Arranging Flowers.

That blue is the dominant note of color
goes without saying, for it is blue, blue
everywhere, and every shade between deep
est, darkest navy and palest lavender is
called blue, says the fashion writer of the
New York Sun. Mauve and gray are close
second, and some of the fashionable COM
btnations of color are blue and green, red
and mauve with a little touch of yellow, and
light blue and black with any and every
other shade in the list From fashions
standpoint you can hardly go wrong in the
contrasts you employ in either gowns or
hats or the amount of trimming you apply.
Bodices are so covered with decoration of
various sorts that the original material is
visible only in spots. Pretty slf blouses
are decorated all over with applications of
black or cream lace, trellis designs of ribbon
or ruches of chiffon, and the very smartest
bodlceS of all are those which are finely
tucked Yokes extending out over the
sleeves epaulet fashion, but in reality form
ing the top of the sleeves and made of
plated frills of narrow ribbon, are one of
the latest fancies. The frills encircle the
shoulders and plaid and plain ribbon are
both employed, as are frills of narrow lace
sewn on narrow insertion and put around
the yoke in the same way. This is a pretty
style for taffeta foulard silks and thin wool
materials like fleurs delaine, which has the
appearance of crepe de chine. Yokes of
some form and device are an almost univer-
sal feature of dress Certainly the gown
without yoke is the exception and revers
are almost if not quite as popular They are
cut in every conceivable Shape, turning back
from a vest either above or below the bust
Small revers fold down on either side from
OIyA
yoke vest and revers in it's construction is
not unusual.
Decidedly the most novel feature of fash
ionable dress Just at present is the black
satin or silk Goat. to wear with any kind of
skirt. 1t may be a plain sailor-made affair
with plain or fancy revers, or a dressy little
garment covered with corded tucks set in at
intervals and sometimes cut bolero fashion
in the back with round or square tabs in
the front. Other corded coats are cut in
the regulation manner, with a short basque
rounding from the front or in battlement
squares, with revers of corded satin Wide
collars of cream white pique trimmed with
an lnsertion of heavy lace, are another fea-
lure or the satin coast, which, by the way
Is not always black. One of the most stylish
costumes imported this season was a fawn
cloth skirt with satin coat matching it in
color and finished around the edge with
pand OF cloth fully two inches wide faced
up on the outside and sealloped on the tlp-
per edge, Where 1t was finished with a milIi-
ner 1old OF satin, occasionally tied in a
nara Knot, giving very novel effect. An
other fashionable Combination is a blue and
white checked wooit skirt with a blue satin
coat, prettlly corded all over and completed
with a wide collar of cream pque
me taTeta silk coat with a loose front
ana ntted pack held in place by a belt which
passes through the seam under the arm is
anotner variation of this new fashion which
VIII doubtless blossom out later on among
the ultra fashionable women. The taffeta
coat is unl1ned, which makes it less expens-
I've ana more suitable, perhaps than the
Satln TO wear with pique and linen skirts
Inc checked wool gowns, supplemented with
satin coat, usually have a bodice to match
the skirt A novel feature of one in blue
ana White is a yoke of white piuue striped
with lace insertion and finished With
stltched bands of fine satin, which also trim
the skirt and form the belt.
Many of the new bodices fasten inyisiblv
at the side, or up the back for youthful
IN 'front.' which still has the lead and the
many prophecies about the advent of the
princess gown are as yet unfulfilled The
real secret of the matter is that there is
which all women seek, to a certain extent
IN dress, and that is youthful effect so we
can count on the chance that it will REQUIRE
long time to GUST the round waist from
favor.
Any attempt to discover anything new in
skirts is met by the rptfie en- forme, as the
French call It, which in. some shape domi-
mates nearly all OF our summer gowns 1t is
circular, or shaped only at the top, and
there may be. one two or three of these
nounces forming the entire skirt but it is
mere IN every conceivable style the fash
ION makers have found it possible to invent
and the whole. success of the gown de-
pends on the particular flare and swing of
this shaped ruffle.