Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1898-10-13
THE FASHIONS IN NEW YORK
Gowns Show the Blouse Front
as Leading Feature.
DROOP IS LESS THAN FORMERLY
Fancy Vests and Waists on
Tide of Popularity.
: The Skirts Show More Changes Than the
Corsag~--Ihe New Jackets Are Long ANA
Fit Tightiy-tn Millinery, Velvet Was
/ Never Used With More Freedom.

Special Correspondence of t,azetfe and Journal
New York, Oct. TO- New gowns still
show the blouse front as II leading fea-
ture, but the droop is perceptihly less
than formerly and this probably is n
prelude to the extinction Of an inartistic
and really absurd style. but which
because effective in concealing the
lack of proportion III defective figures,
has been welcome. As u consequence
moreover, fancy vests and waist COM
pletions of the same order, are still on
the high tide of popularity and con
tribute largely to IL setting off likewise
OF waists in closer outlines, since there
are many who will not adopt the ex-
treme loose front and some tight
waists arc rendered dressy by additions
in fancy goods of light texture. Sleeves
are noticeably smaller at the top, but
the greater number show some slight
fitness and as worthy of note may be
mentioned the extension sleeve"
having an addition that hides the
seam and extends out slightly.
Skirts show more change than cor
sages or properly speaking, the changes
introduced last spring, are now carried
so far forward as to induce much that
is novel. The circular flounce at the
pObttii, oitSi 81 hhaluiy 90
to form a demi- train at the back, and
on the street, will cause an unseemly
trail in dust or mud or painful en-
deavor in holding up, to avoid such
untoward consequences. In contrast,
the upper part Of the skirt is drawn
with sheath-like tightness about the
figure and in few extreme examples,
is cut without fold or gather even at
the back. The situation would. be
hopeless, but that some skirts are in
conservative lines and the onlooker
may from past experience, still place a
degree of trust in woman's good sense
which caused an early abandonment of
bustles last spring and an immediate
rejection Of hoops and overskirts that
We're threatened at previous date.
New jackets are frequently so shaped
as to cover the upper part of skirts
and meet or almost meet the flounce
below. OF necessity, they are long and
the majority show decided droop in
the back that is in keeping with the
demi- trained skirt Some long jackets,
however, are cut evenly and without
exception, all are tight fitting. But
an important quota of jackets are
short, with two plaits at the back and
loose fronts, differences in minor de-
tails being noticeable since there are
square or round fronts, double or single
fronts, and there is no regulation style
in the placing or size of buttons Fine
cloth with strapped seams, has a high
position and by fastidious buyers, is
thought preferable to velvet, because
less pretentious. Extremely elegant
velvet jackets heavily trimmed with jet,
are moro expensive nevertheless, and
velvet finished with jet is choice
second only to fur in wraps, that like
long jackets, often show droop at tho
back.
In millinery there has never within
memory been so free "a use of velvet.
Original shapes are often quite con-
cealed by lavish and repeated folds of
the favorite material and with such
enlarging process, headgear at times is
turban-l like in its competitions. Shir-
ring of both silk and velvet are very
frequent; entire shirred hats are not
uncommon or the crown or brim may
be shirred independently. AS novel
introduction may also be noted addi-
tions of shirrings wired so as to stand
stitfiy and these are placed in canopy
style over crowns that are usually but
half concealed by such coverings
There is, however, no regulation style
in placing, but the effect is never in
good taste. Yuckings are also seen,
though not frequent. Applique may
be noted as leading feature in MILL
merry and the use of white lace is almost
confined to its display in set figures on
velvet, satin or ribbon. Baby ribbon
run in rows on material is likewise
conspicuous and narrow ribbon set in
frills is also worthy of remark. For
softening' touches chiffon has almost
displaced lace that as has been written,
is but little used except in applique,
and SO FAR there is no employment of
/. black lace, but such adiuncts is SO emf
nently appropriate to millinery that il
may appear. later, especially for small
evening bonnets that are chiefly in let.
though quite expensive examples are
In rich, close designs in metal, either
colored or gilt or both in combination.
Natural wings that did not appear al
first, are now more freely shown, though
secondary to made up styles and come
in black, white or new colors. Flowers
of course are used only on the more
dressy hats and serve as nothing else
can, towards a really identifying com
plexion.
A charming hat in purple velvet,
shirred throughout, has rich assem-
blage Of many hued dahlias so placed
as to show from the turned back front
brim and their glazing colors are in
delightful contrast TO the subdued tint
of the material. Another hat showing
folds OF magenta crushed velvet, is sur
mounted by two immense roses in har-
monizing colors, and on one side is a
soft addition of chiffon in lighter
tone. Doubtless the favor accorded to
chiffon is largely due to its appearance
in all new colors and thus quito ele.
CANT competitions are obtained, without
too marked contrasts. The employment
OF very large roses without attendant
foliage, is a prominent feature and gives
a distinction that is novel and most
attractive. But medium sized flowers
are seen and sometimes placed under
brims at the back, but not SO often as
formerly.
"Katydid.'' The best method Of
covering the holes in your taffeta waist
will be that of running ribbon over the
worn places A darn is "a "deliberate
confession, z but trimming is quite an.
other matter.
Mrs b." Before laying away your
summer gowns, see that spots, il there
be any, are removed by an application
of Ivory soap. Soil rots the goods and
some persons go so far as to rir
skirts from their waist bands, in order
to obviate winters pressure on the
folds. Such method no doubt keeps
the material fresh and is to be com.
mended for those who have the time tc
do so.
Madeleine. The most fashionable
color in millinery is purple in various
shades. Magenta in its reddish purple.