The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1898-12-01

age until sunset. when we camDe1 Oh the
bank for the night. Capt. Gardner and sat
il the center of the boat, with our guns be-
side us, listening mainly with placid content
memt to the songs OF tine crew which were
almost continuous whilst we we're in notion
1t tie end OF every hour or so the canoe
was brought in 10 the shore and made fast 10
the low branches OF the trees where they
dipped into the water. Every man then
/ drew his pipe from his pocket, and in COM
plete silence took short smoke of 10 or -
minutes with an enjoyment past description,
when we again pushed OF.
For nearly six weeks we led this life from
day TO day, without losing any Of the fresh
ness of orr enjoyment Of it. In this long
period we traversed all manner of rapids
and beautiful lakes. both large and small
and transferred our canoe from the waters Of
Hudson's Bay to those of the Gulf of Mex
leo
The portage from the Red River waters at
Ottertail Lake TO those of the Mississippi in
Leaf River only about 200 yards An
hour was sufficient to make the transfer. and
we padded down the waters of the Mssis-
sippi with as much ease-ihough with much
less enloyment-as we did those of Red
River. At the Ottertail Lake we left the
lake region and entered the gloomy tribu-
taries OF the Mississippi running through
the great somber pine forests OF northern
Minnesota
MAGNIFICENT FISH AND FowL.
Many Of these lakes are beautiful. and
fish abound in all of them For part of the
distance across they were filed with the wild
rice, which was ripe when we passed The
plant projected about fo0t above the water
and hung down heavy with the grain !
never saw or heard of such numbers Of water
fowl of every description as we found in these
lakes 1t is their breeding place and Summer
home, and SO little had they been molested
that they had not the least fear and had TO
be scared up by shouting before they would
rise TO be shot at
Indeed, We shot so much and killed so
many that our half-breeds were shocked and
disguised with US for destroying so much
food for no purpose except amusement, and
we ourselves got very tired of it, and ceased.
before many days had passed, to find any
amusement in it, and we only killed what
we wanted to eat The wild rice, which is
their food, gives them a favor almost "a fine
as that of the canvas-back or redhead Of the
Potomac, and eaten with the sauce of the
good, healthy appetite Of the yoyageur it is
simply delicious.
To the half-breed voyageur the passage
from the waters flowing TO the north 10 those
flowing to the south were regarded as a sol
emn act, and to be made the occasion of some
ceremonies. They assembled around the
canoe before it was placed in the new waters,
sprinkled and, as it were, baptized it with
the water from Leaf River, After which
they fired several yolleys ofsmall-arms and
re-embarked with satisfactory preparation
for continued good fortune.
We debouched into the Crow Wing River, a
principal tributary of the Mississippi, within
"a hours after We entered Leaf River, and
thence through the gloomy pine forests we
entered the main river just above the new
military post of Fort Ripley. The Mississippi
seemed indeed broad expanse Of water, after
passing so many weeks among the narrow,
winding streams and swift and frequent
rapids in which we had been padding oar
canoe.
We encamped on the river just above the
fort, where, of course, we enjoyed the hos
pitality of the army people, who belong TO
the very limited class of people who enjoy ex-
tending hospitality to others more than they
do receiving it themselves.