The times., 1898-02-27

| the way, sturdy fellows. with carved
wood handles, are so arranged that at
| any time the cotton cover can be re-
| moved washed. and neatly replaced
| again by whosoever may own one. An
! eecentricity in summer umbrellas is in
| the shape OF golf driver, or brassy,
| rendered quite serviceable on the links
| by the simple scheme of buttoning a close
| leather cover over the tightly rolled silk
and small ribs.
Shirt waist collars would deserve more
exhaustive consideration at the fashion
| chroniclers hands did they exhibit any
| marked variety over those we wore last
year. So far everything rolls this spring,
and good many cuffs. well collars,
have scalloped and embroidered edges or
are hemstitched. There is fondness ex-
hibited, by tasteful women. for wearing
plain lavender linen cuffs and collars
with shirts of lavender and white stripes,
plain blue with q checked blue and black
shirt, and SO on through the category
| of colors-
A slight diversity over the usual meth
| od is that of passing bright ribbon
| twice round a rolling linen collar and
! tying il in neat bow behind. In front
| a pretty pin is caught III the ribbon, but
this has not done away with the string
| tie of vivid plaid silk; or a big cushion
! ascot made of the most lively striped
L
plaster across many feminine chests.
Quaint and cool are the little lawn
| bands in pale yellow, and pink, and tan
| color folded narrowly and hooking Sc
cretly beneath the chin, and very small
| accordion plated lawn bows. On the
| same counter with these are white swiss
muslin scarfs having their arrowhead
ends embroidered in black. or deep yell
| low, or bright blue flowers, this marking
| one of the latest stages of the neck
| scarf.
A great deal Of false prophecy is being
| made just now TO the end that mixed
| costumes are no longer to be adopted es-
pecially of an evening. a mixed costume,
which consists usually OF one serviceable
| dark silk skirt or white MORE one,
worn with variety of waists, is bound to
! be popular so long as there are women of
! taste and limited means.
1t is all very well for Mrs. Astor TO de-
| mand a skirt to match every evening
waist she wears. but this does not really
| affect the great laws of fashion, and the
shops and dressmakers' showroomS are
fun of evening bodies of the newest de-
sign. TO be worn with any skirt ward
robe may supply. fair example of
what is new in this line is given this
week The little waist is made Of pale
pink net fecked with dark green velvet
dots and back and front the net is laid
in a series of plaitS. Every plat has an
edging of green velvet baby ribbon, and
the top of the bodice is finished by
broad scarf of mint green velvet. drawn
through two narrow, brilliant buckles.
Mint green velvet epaulettes, edged with
net frills fall out over light net pufiings
that supply the short sleeves, and on the
left breast is fastened knot of cerise
red roses and light garlands of snilaX.
The three strings of big mock pearls
tied under either ear with knots Of green
H. to ,.-.r-
and pretty methods of ornamenting the
throat so greatly in vogue just now
The effect now striven for most ear
nestIy in these evening bodices is daring
contrasts of color. One pretty little
thing of champagne-colored chiffon has
girdle of mandarin orange silk, elbow
sleeves of black velvet and the square
decolletage outlined in narrow flutes of
chiffon heavily sprayed with silver.
Another and not expensive dinner waist
was of white satin. Its pouched front
spangled in pale green. its close elbow
sleeves of turquoise blue velvet, and its
rounded neck frilled with ecru lace, very
fascinating, are evening bodices of which
the bertha is composed entirely of close
set flowers: shaded geraniums or ver-
benas. for example.
But now to solid gowns. The large
drawing shows three spring goods and
spring fashions. No !. nearest the edge
of the sketch, wears a summer poplin,
delightful goods, half silk. half wool. and
not quite transparent. The skirt and un-
der portion of the waist are delicate
gray, treated with gunmetal beads, in an
airy skeleton pattern repeated on the
softly full waist on the short bolero of
wisteria purple faille. Under the SILK
shoulder epaulettes fall double ruffies os
cream lace and the sleeves are ruched
and treated with lace at the wrist.
Mipnonpttp green silk warn Ghmprp is
the material Of the second suit cut on
perfect princess pattern and garnished
with applique of heavy white lace on
the skirt. Lace in a lighter mesh, but of
pattern and color to harmoniZe with the
applique forms the berthe and the side
drapery from the shoulders. which last is
caught in at intervals by big cabbage
bows of peacock blue antique velvet
The third and simplest frock is bfue
and white striped French linen garnish-
ed with white linen embroidered i'm blue.
This forms the top of the body and orna-
ments the sleeves. while the skirt is set
off with narrow double-edge quilted ruff
fles of the same.
In the group of young people the little
boy wears practical school suit of the
tough and inexpensive gray homespun,
his Norfolk jacket held in at the waist
line by a belt OF heavy dark leather, and
his big tam o'shanter cap of red wool to
match his red dotted madras shirt
For girl of eleven is the smart striped
blue and white gingham designed The
skirt is laid in broad box plaits as is
the simple waist. plated below the yoke
collar OF white embroidery. A white wash
leather belt completes this pretty and
simple evening bodice of dotted net, laid
in seven tucks around the body, finished
with band of smoked fox fur over the
bust. ciasped by two brilliant buckles