davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

ferred for travelling, being SO loose and
comfortable. Sailor blouses are very much
affected just now.
In the way of wraps there is everything
you like. The newest is the plaid made
of shawls with shawl fringe as trimming,
supplemented in some cases with bands of
ribbon or cloth with a little braiding in
stead.
There is a new wrinkle in capes. The
cape is cut and tucked lengthwise to ex-
actly fit the shoulders down to half way
between the shoulder and elbow. There
are then three sprung %ruffies, each four
inches wide, stitched along the edge. The
collar is tucked. Tucking is as popular
as ever and seen ON quite as great a vari-
ETY. Of different garments.
There are many very fanciful little short
jackets In figaro shape. These are scalloped
and frilled, rufied and embroidered, and
often richly braided. They are also of the
heavy Irish point and sometimes of the
dress goods. Ono handsome one has q
Spanish f1ounce with a heading of ecru
venetian point lace. The jacket had an
application Of the same.
Some of the new hats have a decidedly
ancient appearance. The poke in rine and
11SO iObSho IL ACcaJ GoA&H ! oilO Va O1lOi1
and trimmed with striped taffeta or satin
ribbon and a great sprawling flower. The
gypsy and the shepherdess are both favor
ties, and are made in all sorts Of braids.
One was In ~neapolitan horsehair in al
ternate black and white stripes. Around
the brim was a triple twist of the black
and white braid. The trimming consisted
of immense loops of fine black chantilly
over white crepe lisse. Under the rolled
sides were pink crush roses. Another
FLAT" shape was of fine, flexible leghorn.
The brim was faced with a putting of pink
crepe de chine with a narrow double gauf-
fering at the edge. This hat was bent up
at the pack and down at both sides, which
left the front in an arch over the face.
For wheelwomen the sailor, the alpine
and one or two of the round shapes where
the brim is turned up nearly or quite
around are oftenest seen, but a SENSE Of
the eternal fitness of things should teach
the fair rider that the less fuss and feath-
ers on her hat for wheeling the better.
There are still many Of the sharply pointed
little wings, and it is said that they will
be very layishly used On fall millinery.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
FASHIONS OF NEW YORK
Some Very New Wrinkles
in Going Away
Gowns.
FABcIEs FOR SUMMER BRIDES
Rage For Lace Dresses is in
Full Swing--C Comfortable
Travelling Wraps.
copyright. 1898, by American Press Assoc
citation. ]

copyright. 1898, by American Press Asso-
ciation.l
Public attention is now divided between
the garments necessary for the annual ex-
odus during the heated term and the new
designs in lace dresses for wear when in
the place of worship. That means when
in Newport, Saratoga or any of the Il
try homes where much entertaining is go.
ing on and fine dressing a necessity.
And it is never perfunctoriiy done ell
Their, this dressing. The sudden advent of
the new lace dress took ones breath away,
first from its beauty and next from its
magnificence, and thirdssEy because of e v
eral innovations in shssspe 81 skirts and
waists and ways of trimming. All these
are expected to be leading styles for au-
tumn. They are the new ideas advanced
at the Grand Prix races in Paris. That is
the forerunner Of autumn styles, just as
the gowns, hats and other things first
worn at the Vernissage get them for
spring and summer.
Aside from the lace feature, which /
shall mention later, n notes this, that
the skirts to all but strictly tailor gowns
are made SO long in front that it will be
necessary to hold them up to avoid tread
ing on them. The skirts train in the back
from 6 to IS inches. 1t will make women
wonder why Providence was SO stingy in
the matter of hands. It now needs one
for parasol, another to grasp the skirt in
the back, and at least one moro to hold up
the front. Four would not be too many
to have. 1 don't see how the matter is to
be managed at all, but I suppose it will be.
The next feature of Importance is the
prevalence Of the princess form and anoth-
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

er is the fchu of lace, which forms a part
of nearly every one Of the new gowns.
The sleeves, being cut almost coat tight,
are so long that they form wrinkles all
down the arms. They extend down over
the hand in a point and have lace along
the edge.
The new lace makes one think that
some vandal hand had broken open the
tombs of the old doges of Venice, for it is
SO rich and heavy that it resembles moth
ing SO much as the old venetian point.
This is frequently run with heavy cords
in much the same way as the cords are
wrought into escurial lace.
These lace pieces are shaped to the skirt,
n nearly all have the whole front breadth
Of them gradually rounding downward in
the back. The fchu to match crosses at
the belt and is sewed to the skirt about
half way down toward the back. Some
are crossed; over like a sash and left to
hang. Naturally these lace pieces are set
over a material of contrasting color, some
times Of light silk, again over pretty or
Candle or null in solid color, but the
fashion will reach far into the fall, and
therefore poplins and other rich materials
will be thus garnished.
Irish point lace Is also one of the new
fashionable kind. One or two gowns were
made Of light poplin with cream colored
escurial deep lounces. Panels and skirt
pieces made of 1uxeuil is very effective
with its a~rabesques. This lace is made Of
a braid woven for the purpose. Some thin
linon batiste, silk null and dotted net
gowns have great struggling figures
wrought of this. 1t car be worked in SO
many designs that this is a boon to dress
makers. 1t is produced In white, ivory
and ecru. Any n of these laid over a
thin fabric in a pretty design gives a beau
tiful effect.
Some gowns of yelling or other thin
stuff have founces, and these are wrought
with designs of flowers, arabesques, fes-
toons or true lovers knots. Brussels net
also has this lace wrought into all sorts Of
designs, and then the net is made into q
dress to be worn over a slip of a different
colorA lavender being a great favoritc, and
strawl lemon or sulphur yellow being very
pretty, TOO, for the slip.
TherA are panels, shawl fronts and
many other fancies wrought in lace for
the decoration of different parts Of the cos
tune. Little boleros Of real Irish lace are
among the rettiest things. In fact, in a
whole page foDl(d not tell half the new
things in laces forthe summer and early
fail gowns.
I must not omit the black and white
silk all overs. These are for waists and
sleeves or for panels and other devices:
Some 81 the hand run Lyons laces have
black cords On the white ground.
The princess shape is a graceful n al
ways, and made with the deep lace hounce
and front piece it gains still an added
boa11fvx Houses are made of the Irish or
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

was a sash Made Of one WIDTH OF the new
broche chiffon IN turquoise blue. This
was tied at the left side In q double loop
and fell to the bottom. Therewas q draped
collar Of the same. The length OF the
dress tn 'front.' was full two inches longer
than the wearer, and there was 9 tiny
train.
But with the advent of the sweeping
train and the princess form we are not in
immediate danger OF the hoopskirt, as it
was feared we might be.
If lace is prominent on dresses, 1t is to
be none the less SO on hats, and already
the rage for lace on millinery is showing
its effect. Black and white laces, span
gled and worked with fine jet and steel
beads, will form the foundation trimming.
Made quill feathers with all sorts Of polka
dot spangles are seen. Maggie effects will
be very fashionable. So will be masses OF
black, white and colored ostrich plumes.
Embroidery of all kinds will be seen on
every kind of garment. That kind where
the figure is raised in high relief above the
surface is the handsomest. Some of this,
especially in the black, is picked out with
fine Jet beads or steel ones. Very many
OWL have the front cut in apron shape
with the graduated flounce sewed to it.
The apron portion is thickly embroidered.
The rich poplins, broadcloths and prunella
cloths all lend themselves admirably to
this style Of skirt, but they do not require
an all over embroidery, a line of demarca-
ton being sufficient.
Some gowns, especially in thin stuffs,
have the tablier front fastened down to
the lining and the rounded flounce left
1-1-o okf4l1 Iof+0T1, Tha mnct IF thpSp
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

any now. / feel perfectly well, have a big
appetite and am happy. OF course / have
not walked in ten years, but I manage to
do a good many things about the house
with the aid of o wheel chair.
"It does seem strange, does it not, that
a big, strong mar like Mr.. Cole should
fancy a helpless, freakish wife such as I
am? / often tell him that. He only laughs
and says it does seem strange. I believe
he loves me and that he will care well for
me. If he doesn't, he can pack his pie
box and get. That's all there is to it. I
don't see why he should have married me
If he didn't love me. / have no money
and he doesn't want me to make any out
Of my affection. He made me cancel a
contract had made with Ringing Bros.
Marriages of this kind are not unheard of,
however. The handsomest man ! ever
saw was married to q woman with a lions
head, the ugliest creature | ever beheld.
And her temper wasn't good either.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
Hunger nIadness.

The sufferings of pellagra are those
we'll known in times of famine. The eff
fects sometimes do not entirely disap-
pear. A woman of my acquaintance near
Monza.S who had had the pellagra some
years before. vas considered cured. She
was the wife of a prosperous shop keep
er when 1 knew her. The only remain
ing trace OF her malady was hat from
time to time she stopped In conversation,
a look of anguish came into her eyes.
she would say in her dialect:-sH
pan He bon. & ii vim Re bon ma II pan
re bonl Bread Is good. and wine IS
good, but bread Is goodr' The horror
Of that suffering from starvation had
never left her.
The worst Is tha no serious measures
of relief are being taken. The govern
ment. while squandering millions for the
prestige Of the monarchy gives nothing
but a small sum, amounting, when divid-
ed among those suffering with the hume
ger madness to twenty-five cents each
per year. That could not be called g
serious measure OF relief. The general
poverty Is SO great that It seems hope-
less and useless for private citizens 10 mt
tempt to relieve II BY charities. Besides.
everybody knows that Il Is not q qt1ea-
tf0nE Of charities, but a political question:
North American Review Tor July
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
EVER FAITHEuLsMoMAN.
How . Devoted wass flinesst0 Her Grim
innl Husbnnd.

How : Dsvotcd W3fpH Blin6s.tn Her Grim
innl Hubbard.
ssIt's the old story of,Wpmm's devotion
to the man Of her choicoFnosmatter what
he does. She's likeivy@-the greater~the
ruinthe closershe olfngs.n This was the
comment Of q languid New York clubman
ON hearing the story Of William Riley
Foster, his wife and little daughter. Eos
ter, now for the second time a fugitive
from Justice, is managing to keep beyond
the reach of law. His wife and child are
Hying.at a quiet New York hotel waiting
to hear from him. When she docs learn
where her husband Is, she will endeayor
to reach him, but should she succeed there
is every probability that the police will by
following her once more nab their
Foster is the son Of q man who was
formerly in good circumstances. He was
educated at Columbia university and soon
afterward came to be recognized as a tai
ented lawyer. The trustees of the Produce
Exchange gratuity fund selected hin as
their counsel, and such satisfaction did he
give that ere long he was made solo GUS
todian Of the fund. His ealary was S10,-
900 a year, but he lived at q rate necessi-
tating ten times that mount. This went
On ~ = iooo' Wnou ns4ne as - -.
SisS, ~ o. me q, luius inof a ~ t als
care, ~ iiee. ~ l9i luls p = lAs0 w. H. =. "a,
crusoees ne,,u - luo ",.s $50
moso . cniiu' sue iau ~ IT,
e resolo wal0n ? ssa s0 az nson ~
,he''iaeoiy " nel 1870 l : .a.o ~ 49,
ner sailu' 10y =. oaay -. A. that
Ilnoo9loe uoU = - = sa.a So, ,rh;ah
.llhe sn9 uiu no ~ : had nasa,,ed
.lo Ain eL uaN y Tsa4an ;nsta,1sd
ner' olo nno1s A 70 liz -
Iie peau'ii"i youns 81 = 81 ~
LONE islaiu. inele ny = .raasn naor9a
oaeeu' oeials - ~ -. 800 800
- eho sl.ln.y s's ssae sno ~ go 1900 bic
Asa iiaIIei - isssV ~ 6 90 ~ -
n.y. a'u ~ ~ ~ 5,aasn = 80 har III
pieeion N = ~ uao - isea4na4a5
Wne- lug s,ii was eau ns~a ~
Mien nl,.' all.s ~ = laa 10 tha,,obt -
1osee. ~ = IL a4oaeis"a 49,
eesoioiiig Ill 80. o.il L.ri !. 800 hsah
y orieu y ~ ~ = 49, r;nal,m ~
mouiu icau - ~. 80, + ;shen
s,ippeu Wy - ~ aSoaa- 49,
Ioieusal, "nel n $. 80 1;rad
=. snos ~ na1.aass -. -
ior ye san 100 nl q h n-ao ossasaa ~ ~
paiu soo'oou - . ~ :. "a L. ,,;ed ,aau;aa
ioio no ooull lay - saoe 200 nus
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

STAGE QUEEN AND SPY
Thrilling Adventures Of
Patriotic Pauline
Cushman.
HOW SHE FOOLED COLONEL BRAGG
Famous Toast to jefferson
Davis and the Confederacy
Honorary Major.

The remains Of Pauline Cushman, the
noted actress and Union spy, were r~eccit-
" laid at rest with military honors in the
Grand Army plot Of the San francisco
cemetery. Miss Cushman's father was q
Spanish refugee of excellent family and
her mother a French creole noted for herr
grace and beauty even in that city OF
graceful and beautiful women Frona
her parents she inherited the charms us
face and figure, the ardent, impulsivcs
emotional temperament, the briliiancy Of
intellect and the fascination eff manner
which particularly fitted her FIR the role
she was destined to play in tie rama %
the preservation of our Union
When war was declared, Miss Cushmanl
was playing a successful engagement
through the middle and western statest
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
LOVE is BLIND.
A Strange Case Showing tho Accuracy of
the Old Adage.

Emma Schalfer. a noted living skeleton,
was recently married to William Cole of
St. Louis. 1t is a singular freak of Cupid
and is best told by Mrs. Cole herself Il
was perfectly sound and healthy until |
was 20 years old. Then I was attacked by
what the doctors call muscular atrophy.
1 began wasting away. From 1888 pounds
my weight decreased to IS. I was we'll
md felt no pain. however. Then my
joints began to ossify and the wasting
away ceased. Since the joints became af-
fected I have gradually gained flesh, and
/ weigh about So pounds now. The joints
of my ankles, knees and wrists have turn
ed to bone. There is no flesh on them.
You see the skin is drawn tight over my
wrist, which is hard, bony and unfeeling.
I don't think the disease is progressing
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
Realistic Singing.

sfWhy does Miss Howler let her voice
shake SO when she is singing On the
Banks of the Wabash 2" That her
idea of realism. She knowns there amt
a river in the world that can hold a
candle to the Wabash for fever'n ague."
Cleveland Plain Dealer.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09
Her Dolly.

Al little girl was overheard talking to her
doll, whose arms had come off, exposing
the sawdust stuifing: Q dear, good obe-
ent dolley. / know ! nae told you TO chew
your food fine, but / didn't thtnk you
Would chew It 80 line as that.v-Dundee
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

nature of the wound. For three hours,
while the English resisted the attack, he
held the artery between his finger and
thumb, and when the enemy broke into
the camp he took the lieutenant in his
arms, still holding the wound, and bore
him to a place Of safety.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-07-09

A boy being asked to describe a kitten.
said.-sA kitten Is remarkable for rushin&
ping before 1t gets there" It must AhVa
heen the same hoy who de6ued scandals
4 somebody goes ana tells-Bufal6a
White Oaks eagle. (White Oaks, N.M.) 189?-190?, 1898-09-15
,lS'f;te SoHo So9&c
$3.50 IN uouu''cs
NEW MEXICO DEMOCRACY.

To the Voters OF the Territory OF New
Mexico:
The Territorial Democratic COM
mittee Of the territory of New
Mexico, disclalming any intention
to encroach in any manner upon
the functions of the representatives
Of the democratic party when as
Sembled ia convention to nominate
a candidate for delegate to congress
and to declare the principles of the
party, in accordance with time-hon-
Dred usages deem it advisable at
This time to declare the purpose of
the democratic organization within
his territory to endeavor by all
honorable means to secure the ac-
'omplishment of the following re-
,ults:
tirst-Wc desire to unite in one
Aarmonious organization all voters
# the territory of New Mexico
who advocate the free and unlimit.
81 coinage of silver and gold at the
rate of sixteen to one.
SecOnd-We desire also TO unite
"a the same organization all voters
who favor legislation so framed as
q" maintain democratic principles
. taxption and at the same time
White Oaks eagle. (White Oaks, N.M.) 189?-190?, 1898-09-15

that those were not the words
which the muse of history coupled
together; that on her lips the words
were, e,-peace and sensuality, peace
and selhshness, peace and corrup-
ton, peace and death. ! found,
in brief, that all great nations
learned their truth of word and
strength of thought in war; that
they were nourished in war, and
wasted in peace; taught by war,
and deceived by peace; trained by
war, and betrayed by peace;-in a
word, that they were born in war,
and expired in peace"
AS a nation we shall derive
greater benefits from this unselfsh
conflict with Spain than the people
whose rights we have championed.
Among the substantial results
of the war may be mentioned
First: The freedom of Cuba from
the murderous hand of the oppres-
sor, and the dawning of liberty
and peace for the people of the
Philippine Islands and Puerto Ri
co, which adds two hundred
thousand square miles, or an area
equal to that of Spain, to the do
main of modern civilization.
Second: The establishment of
national unity of all sections of
our country, obllterating the an
noying evils of sectionalism.
Our national honor and glory are
to-day held as the supreme pride
and interest in all parts of our
common country. This is in ac-
QUESTION we'll worth the price.
Third: The strength and weak
ness of our military resources
were tested at little risk, and the
value of the modern battleship and
military contrivances established.
The new United States navy will
develop rapidly into one of the
greatest naval powers on the globe,
which will not be provocation OF
war among the great powers OF
Europe, but a sure preventative.
Sister nations will court onr favor,
fear our frown, and be influenced
by our example.
Fourth: Our national importance
and the dignity of craftsmanship
will receive a new emphasis. The
United States contains one-ffteenth
of the land surface and one-twen
tieth of the population of the globe,
and although separated by the
wide oceans from the other nations,
otr relations to sister nations in
the great "Parliament of man and
federation of the world" can nc
longer be measured by the narrow
restrictions of the Monroe Doc
trine. Our influence and power
ought in time to exercise a com.
handing influence for good over
the nations in the remotest corners
of the earth. Petty politics has
received a setback, and the new
needs of the new time call for SUI
perior qualities of craftsmanship
heroism and devotion to the high
est interest of humanity.
White Oaks eagle. (White Oaks, N.M.) 189?-190?, 1898-09-15

Al hhc Nouit vi buo EHll
District of the Territory of New Mexico, within
and for the County OF Lincoln.
Maggie NJ. Brookin,
Robert P. Brookin. " ~
Said defendant, Robert p. Brookin, is hereby
notified that suit has been commenced against
him in the said District Court, within and for
the County OF Lincoln, Territory aforesaid, by
the said plaintiff, Maggie NJ. Brookin for a
divorce of the bonds Of matrimony now exist
ing between them; for the care, custody and
education Of Robert P. Brookin and Vivian
Brookin, infant children of plaintiff for reason.
able sum to be paid TO her by the defer lant for
the support of herself and the support and pro-
per schooling OF her said children and asks
that the defendant be required to pay her a
sum Of money sufficient to pay her Solicitor,
and that he be disallowsd to answer until such
sum is paid into Court. and for such other relief
In the premises as may seem meet and Just.
That unless the said defendant enters his ap-
pearance in said cause on or before the 9th day
Of October, A. d. 1898, Judgment will be render.
ed against him In said cause by default.
Plaintiffs Attorney is Geo. W. Prichard,
White Oaks. New Mexico.
John r. Griffith.
'G5 Clerk of said District Court.
White Oaks eagle. (White Oaks, N.M.) 189?-190?, 1898-09-15
WAR AND CIVILIZATION.
rmal Instructor, September number.

The wars of the modern world
pre-eminently mean the advance
ment of the highest types of civil
ization. The conquests which En-
gland has carried on under every
sun have meant the breaking of
the chains of barbarism and extend
ing liberty to the people. Bar
barism yields to civilization only at
the mouth of the cannon. War
may be defined as u necessary evil.
1t is necessary because human nat
ure is as it is. 1t is justified only
as last resort in settling great
national or international questions
of far-reaching Importance pertain
ing to the rights of the people and
the social development of the race.
The war with Spain is inspired
alone by this noble motive.
"Twenty years ago William Swim
ton in his geography gave this
brief history of the West Indies:
'They were the first part of the
New World settled by the Span
iards after the discovery of Amer
ica by Columbus. The natives of
most of the islands were a timid and
peaceful race. The Spanish en-
slaved them and worked them so
hard that they eventually died out.
Then the Spaniards brought
great numbers of African slaves to
these islands, and the blacks of the
West Indies are their descendants.
The whole coast of Africa was
devastated in order to meet the
demand of the New World for
slaves. For many years the num-
Der shipped to America in the holds
was not less than 100, 200 annual
ly. Africa was drained of more
than 40, 100000 by this traffic. p"
The same method of crushing
out the life of one class to fatten
another obtains everywhere under
Spanish rule to-day that has exist
ed since she first made slaves of,
and worked the aboriginies of the
West Indies to death. She has
starved hundreds of thousands TO
death in Cuba. because the patriots
Of that island resisted the unjust
oppression of taX-collectors and
officials who were bleeding them
from generation to generation, to
keep up a naughty, proud, and
decadent government at Madrid.
Had our nation held aloof and
looked with calm Indifference upon
the extinction of another race by
the same power at our southern
gates, we would be unworthy de-
scendants of the fathers who put
the right to ''life, liberty, and the
pursuit of happiness" among seer
tain inalienable rights" of man
kind. Not to have interfered
would have shown that we are
decadent, also, too lazy to fight
or too contemplate to care,
There are worse things than
war. Among these is the com
mercial spirit that worships only
the almighty dollar, regards the
counting room as life's most sacred
place, large fortune as the Mecca
of human hopes, the platform of
political parties as a contrivance
to get in on, and religion as so
cial convenience. War arouses
men from the lethargy brought on
by continual contact with, and
struggle for earthly possessions.
Goethe said:
"Onr aspirations, the souls genuine life
Grows dim amid the din Of the earth
strife"
Civilization needs powder some.
times to lift it to exalted heights
or to save it from impending dis
aster. Ruskin in nThe Crown M