Evening star., 1898-09-03
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
0ld-Fashioned Lace Jackets and Goats
Again in Favor
Black Satin DfrectOire Coats Again
Good Style-Hints for Demi-
Season Wear.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

NEW YORK, September 1. 1898.
If you have an old lace jacket wear it.
This bit of information was given by an
American woman in Paris to a compatriot
who went to her for advice. In many fam
lilies there are lace jackets and coats of
lace, and between the blazers, the etons
and the long basque effect coats which are
all worn and to be worn, there is surely
some way to modernize every one of these
precious laces.
The fact that lace jackets when added to
modern gowns. are usually sleeveless SIM
plifes matters very much. One need only
take care that the lines are good, If the
coat Is a long one, and of date of years
ago when jackets of lace and insertion
were much worn. The lace etons are of
more recent date, and will need little
nodeling, if, indeed they need any
The fancy for lace coats grew out of the
black silk and satin coats which have been
worn in Paris or made by Partisan modistes
slnce early spring. These coats were slow
in reaching us, and it is only just now,
when women are casting about for toilets
to bridge over the months between autumn
ard winter, that they have been worn to
any extent.
Most of the black silk or satin coats are
a s!orlhed modification of the blazer coat
1hey open in front to show ornate fronts
OF rich and contrasting material, and
their turn-back lapels are often elaborately
embroidered, while they have high rolling
ccilars which run into the lapes in front
ana often modestly conceal the nape of
the neck in the back. Some of them but
ton with tiny steel buttons set in a dou-
Die row and giving the short-waisted eff
1ect one sometimes sees in smart-looking
Waistcoats worn by men.
by all means, if you are going to have
one or more gowns for autumn wear have
one which depends for it's grand effect and
air ON a black silk satin coat Nothing
could be more effective.
Jacket Gown Model.
A beautiful modification of the Jacket
gown made its appearance In a recent
model The coat was almost a directoire
ana reached nearly to the hem of the skirt
IN the back In front it did not meet at all
simply framed the full front of the vest or
chemise. tas the inner waist is now often
calieD. Ihe coat was edged with wide
sulpure lace which turned back on the
shoulders, forming a pretty collar. The
luii vest was gathered into a narrow belt
ana was OF soft silk. The sleeves were
OF the same material as the vest and were
close-httlng with a wrinkled mousouetajre
erect The skirt was of the same material
as the coat and was quite full, f1arinr
ABOUT the hem in the graceful way now
popular. ANY lightweight cloth combined
with SILK would be suitable for this gown.
or Two shades of silk could be used
Inc Jacket gowns so called, are another
manifestation of the present popularity of
coat eHects. Some of these Jackets are
simply sleeveless, belted coats. worn over
gown OF contrasting material and color
some are short, only coming to the hips.
mnlie others are quite three-quarters
ienSth, coming well down over the skirt
A good model of a jacket gown seen re-
Gently was of lightweight cloth, which look
ed much like the camels' hair of some
ears Seaas ago. Ihe sleeves, coat lapels and
border of the shaped skirt were of silk
The jacket fronts crossed and were held In
place by narrow belt of black velvet with
silver buckle. The skirt of the Jacket
was very snort and cut in two sharp points
az 60 a. Tt ,nt me opening caused by the turn
over lapels OF the jacket was filled in by a
large craVat OF net embroidered in white
Inc plastroy was of the same net
Panel Skirt Popular.
The flounced or shared skirt ia nor tho
only possible one for autumn gowns The
panel skirt is quite holding it's own and
VIII be chosen by those who wish to have
a skirt which has not yet been seen on
bargain counters. The panel is usually the
front breadth, narrow at the top and wild
ehlnS out toward the hem The side
Dfeadths are variously trimmed to simulate
oFSrsklrts, and some of these skirts really
are doubie-that is, the panel Is part of AN
uhuershlrt, while the second skirt, which is
- NO. Iuilc, oS lOilS dS the HfSt, Is
cut away IN 'front.' or at the side to show
the panel Sometimes the underskirt is
pam ana sometimes it is deeply embroi-
uefed- Often When the overSkirt is merely
simulated effect ruffies are employed as
trimming, tiny ones in four or five rows
which trim each side of the panel
But there is no shutting ones eyes to the
Iact that skirts cut en- form are most worn |
" nat Is more, we are told that the founce
VIII appear in the winters furs and in |
heavy cloth gowns 1t is to be hoped that |
women Will be sensible enough to draw the
llhe somewhere and refuse to carry about
the heavy burden that fiounced winter
sklrts and coats would impose
Shirred Waist and Skirt,
There is still another skirt which. al
though not often seen, is yet popular. That
Is the skirt shirred about the hips This is |
not a new effect, but it is having a great |
revival of favor 1t is especially suited
Tor lightweight cloth or silk with d sepa-
rate SILK lining, and is Just the skirt to be
worn with the lace coats or jackets first de- |
scribed The shrring should be repeated
on the sleeves; for it must be borne in
mind that. although this is a season of
contrasting colors, it is also one of whole |
costumes, and If in color our jackets are
strong contrast to our skirts there must vet |
De some touch of harmony to show that the |
two are kin and were intended to appear
together IN public. MABEL BOYD.