The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1898-08-28
The Fichu Recalled to Its
Former Honorable Estate.
SEP TIE NJ Der SIG S
Eloquent Indications of the Trend
of Autumn Fashfons-Demf-Sca
Hats Are Hound and Tufted with
Golden Rod-Paris Dictates the
Reign OF the Cupote

the air. BY next week all the buyers
viii be crowding home from Paris, tell
ing tales Of every fresh enterprise in
wooden clothes, coats and hats, etc.
Even now there is revival of custom
and interest all along the counters of the
big shops, and in the water color sketch
es, that the buyers always send on be-
fore them from Paris, most interesting
fortunes in finery can be told. Looking
over a dozen OF these pretty pictures any
one would promptly catch the suggestion
that fringes and fichus will be among
the most well-detined features of autumn
nal splendor. Evening and calling gowns
and tailor suits all display some phase
or another Of that graceful shoulder
drapery that folds kerehief-wise over the
bust.
This is a diversion of fashion in which
women stout and thin can alike particle
pate and with equal advantage, and the
recalling Of the fichu to its old time hon
orable estate is an excellent means of
bringing into evidence fine old laces and
embroidered muslin that has been worked
by hand in a distant and more artistic
day.
on evening dresses, the fichu is quite
Protean in Its variety of shades. II may
be scarf Of precious old lace drawn
rather close about cOrsage cut low, that
is. after the court model, on the shoulders
and knotting in a soft bow on the bust,
or il can be a stretch OF Liberty silk,
drawn up and fastened on the left
shoulder with jeweled pins Women who
possess pretty sloping shoulders love 10
wear a small three-cornered bit, drawn
rather close and the ends knotted small
at the waist line, while one of generous
proportions prefers the fichu that floats
in front, long and free from the shoulder
line.
As a matter of fact, by a discreet use
of the iichu woman can give her Inquire
Just what lines and proportions she needs.
BY drawing il taut or letting II fall full,
she can conceal or reveal all she pieases,
and for this reason the fichu front is un-
faiIingly noted on nine out of ten of the
autumn models in cloth. The fronts OF
such suits are for a slender woman made
fun on the shoulder, or under the arm
they cross in suave line and fold over the
bust, high up or low down, in order 10
reveal beneath the chin a rounded or
pointed vest of some soft contrasting
goods Occasionally one side of this drap-
cry. passes down TO the left hip and from
there lets fall a long and a short sash
end upon the skirt.
EQAaIlN as pitdSiHS - the AiIlN
vat fichu that is adopted with the won
derful and hitherto unseen striped cloths
for winter and autumn wear. Fancy, If
you can, a wine red CLOTH finely barred in
black satin stripes. The waist of this
buttons up well over the bust, but springs
open on the chest in two small revers.
They disclose an inner vest of rucked
silk, a high collar of white silk tops off
the basque but to take away from any
severity OF line a kerchief of biscuit
colored lace. edging a wisp of similarly
colored silk lawn, passes about the neck,
under the reVers and knots artistically
on the bust, letting a couple of lace ends
of uneven lengths fall even below the
waist line.
On a certain percentage of cloth suits,
fat-shaped fichu pieces will fold down
from the shoulder. These will be over
laid with lace on white satin, be made
wholly Of embroidered silk, or of the
plain cloth itself bordered with silk
fringe. One end carried far down and
low under the arm will fasten there
with three large fine buttons and the V
shaped space they leave open under the
chin will be ornamented in divers ways.
Once launched on autumn topics it is
essential 10 give some recognition of
the laces that on vests and the fichus of
Nee SoAilS. anu Inc trimming OF even
ing costumes. will be more than ever
conspicuous for the next six months. To
begin at the beginning. biscuit tint is
the choice for the approaching season
II new lace is worn. This is a soft rosy
cream tone that harmonizes deliciously
with all the latest gaslight coIors. but
this so often degenerates into a tone of
dirty tea brown that the first mentioned
dye is preferred.
In
lovely point de Venice, a species of pref
~ cut out point is guaranteed TO achieve
line place for itself and the waved
antique Nalenciennes and Valenciennes
lncrustation is going 10 predominant on
the toilets for debutantes There is also
new applique lace called ruby noin+
which in reality is pale ivory corn in
tone. Ruby point is worked in as heavy
pattern as Russian or Renaissance lace
"hlle an attractive but rather startling
variety OF weave is a coarse black corn
or biscuit colored net adorned in a per-
san pattern carried out exclusively in
ouil gold and silver thread. Orient ,-eil
ing one hears IL nominated. and for ,
WINE IL is sure TO maintain a riqb+
royal position, for only a little has h.,
imported, and that commands 49,
exclusive 10 all of moderate means
ORIENT yelling IS easily initiated in cboa,,
- s4i', ana at once il will fall
r. uIsarlzed, from It's high estate
g. g VINO are reading signs and won
GERS on the horizon of fashion nil, S,-
ialI 10 observe a few first miIlinart, -
va lloils' OF degree of Importance Fnr
stance II does not take great nere,i-
10y 10 decide that feathers will cot .
Dig share of fail patronage. Wbetba.
compete stuffed fowls are going ~ he
sacElhced again to feminine vanj+,. ~
oe-4 Is not yet say but fans of stiff featb-
"a auoin the new toques. This de-
- .iia II Is the spreading tail. not the
wing OF the bird, that is wanted ana
pIumage, handsomely marked with eyes
ana spots, Is the most desired.
as never before, in point of perfect tin,
ana nrn or ragged shape are they making
autumn leaves for adjoining the first hats
OF the season. made of satin srrau, ond
chenille. Nothing could be more promis-
ing IMAM the indications for the demi-
season hat, and the milliners who can
gauge their patrons appetite for pretty
surprises are garnishing round brown and
red and rusty green mixed hats with rib
bon and tufts Of golden rod A green SEN
tember hat made for one who will 20
coaching IN the Berkshire hills was of a
shade OF chenille and straw known as
nay green. Its crown stood an inch and
q fourth high and the two-inch wide
brim sloped down from it, All about the
crown ran fun girdle of Michaelmas
daisies with maple leaves, half turned
from dull green into scarlet
There is a promise that later on. when
headgear becomes a really serious con-
sideration with every woman, popular
taste viii be invited 10 whet its appetite
Tor novelty on a hat material known as
came4s hair felt. The specimens seen SO
Tar show pretty quality of rather rough