The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-10-24
Society Tnplrs.

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The variety in feathers this season Is
quite unp~receuented ne r great feature :
that the majority of them are trimmed.
There was a time that a feather IN us
self was beautiful enough, but now even
ostrich plurnes are tipped with rontras-
ting spots of chenille. Quilts are replaced
by feathery gourras on one side and often
have specks of other feathers Attached
This is new enough. one would think, but
not SO new as the introduction of peauti-
full butterflies on quilts. some of them
inelv marked and eontrasting strongly
with the quilts they accompany. These
butterflies are also blended with osprey
breasts. Shaded feathers, metallic tinted
plumage of every kind, fan-shaped effects
that stand erect, quilts with huify, curry
feathers down the centre rib in ruche ef-
feet are some of the new millinery CON
tributions. The guinea fowl SO long IN
the background, has in one STRIDE galheo
premier place. Its natural gray colors
are too sombre. so dry in the new RUBY,
green and bright orange tones mas trans
formed the cold color to those OF priiilaIt
hue. Large birds with four wings m
stead of two. awe found great accep-
lance with fashions caterers. Inese are
10 be found in all the shades OF the mo
ment brilliant magenta, greens OF every
hue, also heliotrope mingled with green,
as well as rcd and green and plue ana
green. The impeyan feathers border
many Of the quilts. In fact looking around
af the supply of the feather
of all kinds, it is apparent that the brains
that have given us these creations can
It, ~, o1,ilIc ara 0lfferc1tiV
tinted on either side, and many OF the
blue feathers nave a chic effect Fara-
disc plumes are mingled with osprey,
and short quilts are mounted at the pase
with tufts or feathers. The Mercury
wings Judging from the enormous variety
in which they are to be had. are sure 10
be employed on many of the chic models
Feathers and flowers show bright cofors.
Many feathers will be introduced be-
meath the brims~of hats so that they rest
on the hair, starting from a knot OF vel
vet. Notwithstanding the wei direcl-
cd efforts of those who are striving TO
prevent cruelty to the feathered tribe on
behalf of fashion, there is rather an IN
crease than a diminution in the use of
plu,res of all sorts which figure inside and
outside hats and stand up proudly ABOVE
the upturned brims of teques and oonnets
or mingle with the prominent BOWS
which decorate the back, mostly "fth
a buckle in the centre. For immediate
wear many of the foundations OF mead
gear are made in velvet crinolne or CHIP,
h,,t elaborately embroidered with jet Sc
auins and chenille, a faric which IS
ubiquitous. Untrlmmed the shapes are
uniaue-if would hardly TO bring the
brims down close to the head at the back.
Wings are frequently placed across the
front in a manner to produce effect of
width. and wire is employed not only
to keep the bows out in their place. but
for gathering velvet into the drawn forms
required. Ostrich feathers, swan. and
crow quilts, as well as fancy feathers VIII
all play their parts in the coming seasons
millinery. Black is employed a great deal
for foundations, relieved by ecclesiastical
violet, pinky reds. leather tones and blues
which do not approach the Royal tint,
but rather periwinkle- Beads of pea size,
white black and colored, surround crowns
and figure in the ornamentation of some
of the materials, but puckered ribbon and
ribbon velvet still form many embroidery
designs, and often mingle with steel.
Laced chenille figures on ribbons, vel
vets, felts, chiffon and lace. It is worked
through the fabric in a stitch Resembling
crewel; black on white and colors has an
admirable effect in rows a few inches
apart. Black and white n dark blue
and white figure largely in the millinery
of the moment, and SO will gray and
white. A. gray velvet toque has large
conical points of velvet. tipped with steel,
almost sugar loaf fashion placed in front
of a somewhat pointed crown with
plenty of osprey and pearls introduced
In front. Another of a similar nature is
made in white and black. Cloth of gold
we are certainly not to lack in the way of
millinery. and a small close bonnet has
been worked over in an intricate design
carried out with green and white narrow
ribbon; it had ospry at the side, and
and satin ribbon strings about two inches
deep.
Many of the hat crowns this winter will
be low, especially in felt. A good exam
pie of this white surrounded by a double
fold of the material, forming a hedge
rather than a brim; it was trimmed with
brown and had some curious horn-like or
naments in the front with four large
feathers standing up from the face. They
Nh mail VI VII L Will
derful pins, made of a huge crushed pearl
and steel. Virot is accountable for a
large toque of petunia velvet which was
pretty well gathered all over before it
was made up; in the front was one enorm-
Gus velvet leaf. A great deal of tulle and
fur will be employed as the season advan-
ces, and this is quite one of the newest
combinations. Many of the hats are
kept on by a black velvet band under the
crown at the back. and sometimes by a
fulling of velvet: an example of this is
trimme with feathers displaying a com
binatiOn of green and black. Many of the
new brims are cloyen in the back and
in the front. Some of the newest felts
have hairy stripes of color introduced
upon the hat itself and upon the bows
front. The crown of all the headgears
excite much interest and are worthy of
study The large full ones made of vel
vet, are often quantity folded, while some
are of a round basin shape, covered with
Killed material. Mary Of the feathers
take the form of quills trimmed with che
mile. especially when they aecommpany
the stitched brims with rosettes on either
side.
Young women will wear mousseline de
sole frockss hung over silk.
There is positively no end to the bands
OF lace applique. much of that used being
exceeding smart.
Gowns literally fall off the shoulders. he.
ing held up-or so it appears-by bands
of velvet.
Many of the small mutton-leg and
chatelaine sleeves on French and Engiisn
owns are tucked in inch-wide tucks at
the top of the sleeve or it's dlminutiye
puff.