The record-union., 1898-10-09

ial. This fabric differs from broad
cloth in having a semitwilled surface,
which is not distinct, and which does
not permit of the lustrous finish char
acteristh of the high-grade broad
cloths, They are from fifty to fifty
four inches wide, and cost from 81 40
to SI.fo yard. There is also steady
demand for drap d'ete and double faced
cashmere. The taste for soft, fine
Woolens like these and Henrietta
cloths, Hermann weaves, etc, is never
entirely lost. although rivaled and al
most obscured at times by the more
pronounced novelty of repped, crinkled,
shaggy, or frise goods-not a few of
which are rather deceptive as to dur
aplllty. The refinement that is char
acterlstc of these soft woolens now
marks many of the fashionable dyes
among textiles noted above.
Velvet in all shades and varieties will
be fashionable, both as an accessory
and Tor the making of redingotes un-
der-dresses, and complete costumes.
Black undoubtedly takes precedence,
but marked favor is shown to new,
very elegant shades in Russian green,
damson, orchid purple-a superb color,
with a glow of crimson in ito dark
sumac red, and a complete grade of
rich, becoming browns, which include
the Havana, cedar, seal, chestnut, and
marquiSe dyes.
Rose -colored peau de sole or satin
waists will be very fashionably worn
in the evening, with skirts of black
velvet, faille or satin, and OCCASION
ally they will be seen with skirts of
lustrous dark green repped silk. These
waists, as a rule, will be trimmed with
handsome lace, but the garniture will
| sometimes be of velvet matching the
| skirt in color, with the rich addition of
| bands of very narrow dark fur and
! jeWeled buttons.
1t is officially announced that buttons
will be extensively used wherever pos
sible, and that they will, as a rule, be
OF considerable size-not always round,
| but oval, square, and oblong also.
! Cameo effects, it is said, will reappear,
some of these buttons surrounded by a
circle of Rhinestone or very fine-cut
French brilliants. Buttons with buck
les to match of real gold and real sill
yer Will be used. Many years ago
the craze for cheap buttons reached
an eXtraVagant hight, from three to
i've dozen sometimes trimming a sin
| gle gown, and tons of metal buttons
were manufactured to supply the de-
mand. Nowadays, if buttons are worn
as ornaments, they must be artistic
and valuable. The cheap, snowy kinds
! have departed to the limbo to which
wax flowers, wool mats, shell orna-
ments, and crochet antimacassars are
| banished.
! Ladies cloth, very light in weight
| and of exquisite velvet-like surface in
ivory of cream white, geranium or mil
itary red, pale dahlia, or old rose,
orange, and fawn color, is much used
for guimpes or yokes on tailor cos
tunes of broadcloth and when a light
er fabric is preferred, tucked corded
| silk or crystal bengaline in similar col
| ors is used. Some of the cloth yokes
are left plain; others are overlaid with
! an entire second yoke of Open-work silk
| applique, passementerie, or braiding
| On evening toilets, nets, soft Liberty
! satins, India silks, chiffon, and crepe
| de Chine are variOusly used for yokes
| or guimpes, and many times the sash
or folded girdle and little sleeve puffs
are formed of corresponding material
|
Chief among the novelties from over
the sea brought out by high-class mod
| istes in this country is the bodice or
princesse polonaise which hooks, but
| tons or laces down the center of the
| back. This style is certainly advan-
tageous to a graceful figure. Yet there
is one great difficulty to overcome. How
is the woman who has no maid or a
| convenient friend handy to fasten her
gown? Fashion rarely troubles herself
| about such details, SO her devotees have
to solve some of her sartorial problems
| as best they can. In fastening these
waists and princesse dresses, the most
charming and costly buttons will be
utilized by the modiste. Graduated
trimmings and V-shaped insertions on
each side of the row of buttons are
| employed, which serve to break the
breadth of the shoulders.
The new English serge and wide-wale
diagonal costumes have little tucked
sleeve puffs, some of the bodices being
tucked also, the tucks edged with very
fine gold braid. Other gowns show
the waist and skirt decorated with mo-
halr or Hercules braid, arranged in
spreading arabeSque or scroll patterns
Again, are costumes with only straight.
fiat rows Of braid al the skirt edge. the
waist nearly covered with the trim
ming put on in various forms, but Of
ten Stimulating the still popular bolero
jacket.
In an array of elegant "dress" silks
recently displayed We're bayadere and
iridescent taffetas, in plain patterns or
brocaded with very beautiful Marie
Antolnette designs; corded silks in both
flne and heavy reps, and in exquisite
evening colorings in monochrones or fig
ured With dainty garlands of roses;
Nlctofas and moires with woven pat
terms resembling lace work or passe-
menterle scrolls, and Lyons silks in
vivid colorings and of superb texture
whose designs are toned by a film-like
over weaving which gives them a sill
very or chine effect.
DresSmakers still continue to recon-
mend the very handsome peau de sole
SILKS to those who do not admire the
solid, rather garish luster of satin
Peau de sole has rich half lights