davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-07-30

of lace in the fall Not only will whole
toilets be made up of lace and lace net,
but applique embroidered and passemen-
ter1e garniture in bands, yokeS, vests and
tiny Jacket effects viii be in vogue, and
such trimmings always mean rich dress
materials. as satin, velvet and plain
smooth woolens.
Lace appliques deco rate many of the new
fall garments, from a fur cape, where the
velvet yoke has applique figures, to tiny
velvet jackets, worn with low-cut gowns.
In cream guipure the appliques of
the scroll or fora. pattern: but when Hack
lace is used the pattern is always floral.
Many silk tea gowns and Jackets are
trimmed with a loose front of white net
or mousseline, appliqued with tapering
vines or sprays Of black Chantilly lace.
Dress Materials.
Am ong the favored dress materials are
cloth foules. Damasses, with two-toned
effects, crewels, mirzahs and Esquimaux
are used for Jackets an dcloaks. Traverse
designs are noticeable among the woolens
and have the advantage of needing little
trimming, an advantage to be considered
for the ordinary street or travelling dress.
One pretty effect is seen in a design that
has the appearance of black braid embroid-
cry on a colored ground. Black and coiored
checks are frequently executed in this way.
For elegant wear taffeta applications on
satin duchesse or cloth edged with plain
chenille or narrow ribbon is noticeable.
Lilac trimmings of this kind on blue is q
novelty.
While the leading ateliers have exhibited
the long skirt and the sensible public
has broken into moody auguries of mi
crobes, &c, and madame, true to her
maxim Better dead than unfashionabie"
was preparing to don the inevitable traiE,
tickle fashion suddenly declares the street
train chimera, and her faithful followers
are relieved. Skirts viii continue to be
worn long, tight over the hips and expand
ing below, but the train will be forced back
to its proper domain-the carpeted floors of
the salon and the smooth parquet of the
ball room.
The FavOrfte Bodice.
The blouse form is still the favorite bodice
and bids fair to remain so. Costumers have
instigated movement to introduce the
tight-fitting form, but have been unsuccess-
full, as the loose, graceful lines of the blouse
have endeared themselves too much to the
public. The bolero jacket, simulated by
trimmings or Independent, again makes its
appearance and is always effec tive.
The omnfpreselt serpentine fiounce also
decorates the fall cape, which will be largely
worn and comes in various forms and ma
terials. 1t is seen in cloths, silks, velvets or
laceS and is always elaborate and eXtraVa-
gantly lined. handsome model of gray
cloth has serpentine fiounce with an inser-
tion of dark gray shirred velvet. The far
ing collar is also faced with shirred gray
velvet, and the lining consists Of white and
old rose brocade.
Evening star., 1898-07-30

cupied by the quartermaster's department
of the army, and then by Henry A. Wise,
U. s. N, who married daughter of Ed
ward Everett.
The old mansion of William Writ was
near neighbor of the Everett house on the
east, but like many of its time, when one
looks for it today, a modern structure has
taken its place.
by Richard Rush in 1896, while Secretary OF
the Treasury. Another story, including a
ball room, has since been added. The oc-
cupants of this house have been Ham,
ilton Fish, afterward Secretary of State in
Grants cabinet; Lord Lyons, British ami
bassador from 1858 to 1865, who gave many
brilliant entertainments in honor OF the
queen, and lastly, Admiral David u. Porter
during whose long residence here the house
has been the center of bountiful hospitality.
The Blair mansion was built about 1870
by Joseph Lowell, surgeon general OF the
army. 1t was then purchased by Francis
Preston Blair, editor of the Globe. His son,
Francis Preston Blair, jr., was congress-
man and major general in the Union army.
Mr.. George Bancroft lived here during mis-
stay in the city as Secretary of the Navy =
1876, under Polk. The next occupant was
John Y. Mason, Secretary of the Navy
from lS46-49. His daughter was married
to General w. T. Sherman In this nouse
May 1, 1850. The President and his cabinet
and a large number of distinguished per-
sons were present. Three years later the
house came to be occupied by Sen ttor
Montgomery Blair, brother OF the major
general. lis III
Homes of Lafayette Square.
The north front of the White House
looks upon Lafayette spark, laid out
and named by General Washington. Once
burrying ground for thu Indians. 1t Is
now confronted on three sides by houses
which have almost without exception be-
come historic-large1y the former homes
of cabinet and naval officials. Many
of these men have taken an important
part in the historySof our nation, and as
time goes on their Sfguses dim not. but
stand out in stronger relief as the light Of
the-present throws shem gainst the back
ground of the past. Th# very air seems
charged with the stored-up history OF Well
nigh one hundred years, since this city has
been the residence of the government and
those who have been appointed to conduct
Its affairs. The lives of these public men
ard their families have often been co,ored
with romance, perhaps partly because or
the intertwinings of life at home and
abroad through our foreign representa-
tives What brilliant gatherings OF distin-
guished personages, what gay festivities,
what -to-be-fcrgotten banquets have
transpfred within the walls of these old
mansions! And II their histories could be
written there would be many long chapters
or 1arewells, disappointment and failure
and dark and stormy days of hate and
tragedy. Ss.,sssss 50
The White House was the first building
erected on the square. the corner stone
having been laid in 1872, and remained the
only one until after the war of 1872, when
st. Johns Church was built. The next
II
Evening star., 1898-07-30

From the Philadelphia Record.
How 90 becomingly and at the same time
suitably dress the neck when a lawn frock
Is worn Is often a question A straight
tucked band is too plain, and ruffies are not
always becoming. The stocks of white
lawn have partly solved this problem. and
the latest notion of a stock to match the
trock IS most satisfactory A Fashionable
dressmaker showed me the other day now
the lawn stock is arranged The bodice
with the trimmed front is buttoned down
the back, and the high collar with inner
inning of stinened muslin is fastened TO
the bodice This is tucked or shirred. the
extra 1uilness going to form the width of
the cravat- The ends at the back are
crossed and brought around and tie in a
sailor Knot in front. The ends are neither
long nor wide, and the ends are pointed and
frlIled. This is a very simple way of dress
ing the neck. The stock en- suite can be
made adjustable. at times a white lawn
one can take its place. In shirt waists it
is quite the proper caper to wear collars
that match.
Evening star., 1898-07-30

Dor, was endeavoring to represent the
southern confederacy in France, and Capt.
Wilkes, another near neighbor, was his
captor on his way to Europe
This was also the home of Gideon Weles.
Next to st. Johns Church, across 10th
street is the massive three-story and man
sard house, which was formerly the Brit
ish legation. In 1S42, when Lord Ashbar-
ton was sent over to settle the question of
the boundary between the United States
and Canada 1t was in this house that the
agreement called the AShburton treaty was
happily made with Daniel Webster,
then Secretary of State. As a token of the
pleasant relations that existed between
these two statesmen, Webster named one
of his grandsons for Lord Ashburton.
Some years later Sir Henry Bulwer oc-
cupied the legation. His private secretary
was his nephew, Lord Lytton, who here,
in 1860, wrote the beautiful poem, "Lu-
cile," under the name of Owen Meredith.
And now We come to the Arlington Ho-
tel, which has enlarged itself from time
to time by absorbing the adjoining private
Evening star., 1898-07-30

era1 was marked by public honors as we'll
as general mourning. Gen. Van Ness died
at seventy-five. His house was the rendez-
vous for Congress apd was noted for royal
hospitalties.
AS the years pass over IAN old house a
veil of mystery Is woven around 1t, and,
this being an imaginary and not real fab
ric, 1t grows thicker as time passes There
Is legend connected with this house of
Van Ness that six headless horses gallon
around the house on thes anniversary of
his DEATH" There will soon be no house to
galIop around, for the place has steadily
yielded to time and weather, standing help
less amidst the appointments of a modern
athletic club, which now has possession of
it. The historic Burns cottage, once so con-
sctsntiously preserved bya the father of
his country, has been thlessly torn down
and done away with
Where President Madison Lived.
If a person is inclined to ask himself
where was the old Washington-the WASH
ington of Clay, Monroe, Madison. Everett
and all the rest, and does not realize that
before most of US were born Congress met
and Presidents and statesmen had their
homes here, let him step out from the west
entrance of the State, War and Navy De-
partmentS. The Burns and Van Ness place,
although so entirely part of the past. is
only few rods to the south. The classic
structure of the new Corcoran At Gallery
is the only modern innovation between
n.
past and present Leaving the thick of
modern city life two blocks behind one
finds himself entering a locality which
fourished in past generations Going west
one block reach what must now be
one of the oldest houses in Washington,
having been built in 1879 by Colonel BEN
janin Tayloe. He had a vast domain and
owned five hundred slaves After the
White House was burned by the British
in 1914 President Madison rented this house
for the winter. The treaty of peace was
ratified in the front room ever the hall.
Both these rooms are round, the doors and
all the woodwork conforming to the per-
feet circle. Mrs. Madison held her elegant
drawing rooms here. There is a story of
this house that when the owner died all the
bells in the house began to ring and con-
tlnued to ring until he was buried Prob
ably it originated in the fact that the SER
wants were kept busy at the time going to
and fro in answer to bells.
Mr.. Madison removed from here to a
house on the corner of 10Th street and
Pennsylvania avenue, a house also occu-
pied by Elbridge Gerry while he was Vice
President, and James Monroe.
Still going west the ample size of many
of the houses and the style of their archi-
lecture tell that they were in their prime
''befo' de wah.'
The Pleasonton mansion is one of the old
landmarks, although it was somewhat
changed during the reconstruction Of the
city. 1t was built in 1902, of yellow stone
which is crumbling in places. Black stains
show where the rains of years have
trickled, but the charitable ivy is climbing
up as if to combat time in his work of de-
Evening star., 1898-07-30

pass in and out here. Going through the
hall and raising a hack window, there is
an open space to be seen, pitifuIly neglect
ed now, that used to be Daniel Webster's
garden and orchard, a beautiful place
with lawn sloping down to the street fine
fruit trees and sweet flowers. A circle Of
angular stones set edgewise in the ground
shows where the fountain was. Only this
back part of the garden remains, for the
relentless pick and shovel dug up and re-
moved the rest when the addition was
built.
Only few rods away is the old residence
of Salmon p. Chase. When MIR Chase was
young man and stUdying law in the
Office OF William Writ he was a friend and
visitor at the home of Col. Berry, one of
the original settlers in the District. This
place was about two miles from The city
of ideal situation, commanding from its
wooded heights a fine and extensive view
of city and country. The house was built
early in the century, but substantially
that it seems to show no signs of age. The
bricks are very large, and so laid. alter
nately endwise and sidewise, that the
walls are unusually strong
Evening star., 1898-07-30
@z---
HIRsCH & Co., Brussels.
Amsterdam, Cologne,
Dresden, and Hamburg.
Oddly in Jeweiry.

From the st. Louis Republic.
One of the most novel pieces of jewelry
is the puzzle-lock bracelet, the chain of
which is secured by lock formed of three
revolving pieces engraved with figures or
letters. Only by arranging these in some
particular combination forming a private
code can the lock be opened, and a the fig
ures may make an immense number of COM
Dinations the open sesame is well-nigh
impossible of attainment except by the
owner.
The idea of this device is that the bracelet
car be taken off and used to chain bicycle
to the railings while the rider is in a house
or store, as fastening to a travelling bag
and for many other purposes of the sort.
Most people would be apt to suffer qualms
of anxiety in leaving it lock to a BIZ
cycle but for the makers assurance that
these bracelets. which are made in a va
r1ety OF designs, are so strong as to render
the length of time required for filing them
through a risk which the bicycle thief
would not venture to incur, while 1t is i'm
possible to break the lock or open it in any
other way than by the mysterious CODE
Evening star., 1898-07-30
GOOD FOR THE PORTER.
The Dangerous Work IL Did. and Did
Well, at Santiago.
From Scrsbner's.


With the first shot from the shore the
torpedo boat Porter began to attract at
tention. In the printed plan Of attack,
issued to the squadron on the day before,
Admiral Sampson had said: The Por-
ter, when the action begins. will cross the
harbor mouth behind the Iowa and get
close under the cliff to the eastward Of
the Detroit and torpedo any Spanish
cruiser trying TO get out of the harbor"
In obedience to this, she had rolled along
under the walls of the battle ship. that
was now turning across the mouth Of
the harbor herself; in fact lay with her
brcaoside facing the first anchorage. But
now the Porter began to draw ahead
and in a few minutes had reached her
station. 1t seemed a safe station at first
so Tar as the guns of MORO Castle were
concerned II was perfectly so-but within
Few minutes-it was at 52q O'clock
gun in one Of the works over near the
TERRA Gate suddenly awoke the echoes
with a report not born of a smooth bore &
Another and another followed from the
same works, and then two rifles from near
the market place, and two more from the
height of land just back Ito the southeast)
OF the old Morro spurted fame and white
smoke Nor was that all they spurt-
ed, for from each white burst of smoke
came something with an eager whining
cry, that made the nerves OF the unaccus-
TONED culver as never before 1t takes a
salIorHlan 10 look at weapon like that
smlllngly, but Captain John C Fremont
of the Porter is just that He found
his boat within easy range of the easterly
guns, and its "armor," as he called its
nails, was just three-eighths of an inch
thick. Worse yet, he was within musket
range of the nearest works and he might
have been swept under the sea by a hsId
piece located anywhere alongshore. But
from 53O O'clock until peremptorily or
dered out of range by the admiral at 8
the Porter flirted to and fro over the roll
ing seas. where all might see and shoot
-nirted, to the evaporation of every SAL
low gunner ashore and the exuberant de-
light of every man afoat. Exuberant is
used advisedly, for, when word was passed
on the press boat that Fremont was shoot
ing back with his little one-pounders at
the nearest Spanish fort, the firemeu in
the stoke hole came up on deck to yell
their approval.
Evening star., 1898-07-30
Design for Costume for Early
Autumn Wear.
lace WILL Be In GENERAL Use
Dress Materials That Are Sure of a
Hearty Welcome.
FAV ORITE BODICE FORM
ccg,stsss 1853. b, ,aMn.ia~..

Special Correspondence OF The Evening Star.
BRUSSELS, July %, 1893.
The combination Of black and red is so
natural that fashion ever resorts to it
when her great stock of other col0r har-.
monies is exhausted. Somber black bright
cred by red is always pleasing to the eye,
ard becoming alike to blond and brunette.
ard will be the more acceptable in the
autumn. since the summer has been over
productive of a variety of shades of blue,
which fashion is slowly firing of. Our
elegant toilet for all occasions shows this
combination in most novel form.
Scarlet red silk forms the foundation of
the skirt and bodice. The former shows a
variation of the inevitable serpentine
founce. The upper part is covered with
large meshed silk net, having large polka
dots of chenille. The fiounce is veiled with
square meshed black net, embroidered In
floral design with black chenille The
1uncture Of the fouEce TO the skirt is made
with a narrow bias fold of black satin
The blouse bodice closes in the shoulFor
ana undsr arm seams, and has a pointed
yoke OF squire meshed chenille ernbroid-
cred tulle. edged with a small black satin
1Oid- The upper part of the sleeve shows
similar pointed insertion of the square
raeshed tulle. while the arm, as we'll as
the lowe" part of the pouch OF the bodice
consists of he chenille dotted tulle A
rounded ola X satin belt encircles the
waist, and has appended on the left side a
graceful long sash of scarlet. The high
collar is likewise of folded scarlet silk. ana
small ruchings Of scarlet silk finish tho
wrist of the sleeve
A Charming Effect.
A very charming effect is produced by
hterlining the yoke and bodice and sleeve
which are all covered with the large
Heshed chenille dotted tulle, with f1e
black silk tu!le leaving the square meshed
embroidered net without interining. This
procedure gives the appearance of a dark
er shade TO the interlined parts, while the
HIveiIed red sash and collar stand brightly
anu MAKE pleasing color graduation.
All indications point 10 the extens;ye 1854
Evening star., 1898-07-30


struction. The famous cavalry commander,
Gen. Alfred Pleasonton, was born here. 1t
was mis- father who, when, the British made
their attack in 1914, secured the most i'm
portant public documents. broke the glass
and removed the frames from Gen. Wash
ington's first commission and the Declara-
ton of Independence, rolled them up, load
ed twenty-five two-horse wagons with
valuables and saw them all safely hidden
in barn in Leesbnrg, Va. The British
made visit to this house while going
through the city, but did not seriously
damage It, They moved on to Baltimore,
where they We're repulsed and the admiral
killed.
About four squares away is the house
built by Edward Everett. and where he re-
sided when Secretary of State under Presi-
dent Fillmore. The next occupant was JEFF
ferson Davis while Secretary of War in
the administration of President Pierce
Jacob Thompson, Secretary of the H.
terror under Buchanan, lived there during
that four years of office, and gave famous
entertainments. During the war it was oc-
Evening star., 1898-07-30
Unreasonable Hatred.
rom the St. Loui. Republic.


The battle cry. Remember the Maine."
still rang in the ears of the wounded Amer
leans on the field of Santiago. Round about
lay the bodies of the dead, keeping silent
companionship with the wounded. Groans
and signs filled the air. The brushwood,
thick and sturdy and straight, trampled
down by the hoofs of the Rough Riders
horses. was saturated with the blood of
friend and foe until it no longer hid from
each others view the fallen of two nations.
In the distance the sharp report of the
guns told of the onward march to victory.
1t goaded the wounded Americans to action
the stricken foe to revenge. From behind
a tuft of grass on the blades of which blood
hung concealed a head arose. 1t was the
yisage of a Soaniard, deathly pale, with a
stream OF blood trickling from his temple.
His hendish gaze was fastened upon the
outstretched form of an American soldier,
who, face downward, lay with his head
against a tree. He was still. one in
death. his life blood ebbing away, he
thought, through wound in his side.
Slowly the Spsniard propped his arms
beneath his body and grasped hts gum
There in the brush beside him was his
deadliest foe- Crawl to his aid? Not he. He
would riddle the body with Mauser bullets.
He would rejoice to mutilate even the life
less to demonstrate bis hatred. Quick as a
flash he fired, the bullet striking TIE Amer
lean in the leg. The sting of the lead
brought the solcier back to consciousness.
AT glance he took in the situation. The
CLEAN of fierce, fendish hatred I'm the eye
of the Spaniard convinced him that this
would be a duel TO the death. He returned
the fire, and sent shot after shot toward
his antagonists quarter. A fusillade fol-
lowed, and ceased only with the death OF
the Spaniard The American, who had
dropped in his tracks beyond his battle line.
was rescued by his comrades. who had
been attracted TO the spot by the terrific
struggle of the two wounded men.
Evening star., 1898-07-30

and for years after their marriage they
lived in the old cottage. But when their
daughter came home from boarding school
in 1920 there was a lew home waiting, and
this was a mansion indeed.
1t was built very near the old place and
was then the mcst elegant house in Wash,
ington, costing $50, 900 and finished in fine
woods and marble. Ann Elbertine Van
Ness was married to Arthur Middleton, but
in less than two years from the time they
removed to the grand home she was Luried
with her baby in her arms. After this the
life of Marcia Van Ness was given to doing
good. She made to the city the gift of the
City Orphan Asylum as a memorial of her
child, and adopted motherless children into
her home. She seems like personal friend
when We stand in the great house. now GO
ing to decay, and think how from here in
quiet moments she would steal over to
the old cottage from whence her father and
mother had gone and sit awhile In the light
and atmosphere of the oldea time.
She died at fifty. Her husband was may
or OF Washington at the time and her fun
Evening star., 1898-07-30
LIVING LEAVES OF FLORIDA.
How These Peculiar Insects Scared
Away Party of spaniards.


From the Philadelpha Inquirer
A party of Spanish soldiers. landing on
the coast Of Florida to procure fresh water,
were alarmed by seeing a supposed shower
of leaves suddenly become animated, jump
ing, walking, f1utterlng over the ground.
They left, declaring that the place was be-
witched. One of them averred that on their
retreating the trees started in pursuit
How those brave men would have stared
had they known that is was only HARM
less insect that was at the bottom oil il all,
The Phillium scythe, or leaf insect, leads
sluggish life, making its home on the
branches of a tree. Its body is very thin
and fat, its large wings shaped. veined and
colored exactly like a leaf. When disturbed
it tucks its legs under its body thus per-
fecting the resemblance to q leaf. with
petiole and stem complete. In the summer
its wings are bright green, but in the fall
brown, withered hue. Its hold upon the
branch is slight, a puff OF wind being
enough to throw il upon the ground, when
il at once sets out to regain its home In
such manner terrified the Spanish SOL
diers.
There is another race of leaf insects, but
terf1ies. While the upper surface Of their
wings is bright, like flower, the lower re-
sembies a withered leaf. with fungus-like
blotches. Their flight is very swift, and
they settle on twigs only, never on leaf or
flower.
When pursued and hard pressed the leaf
butterfly has a way OF vanishing as sud-
denly as a full-fedged ghost. In the twin
king of an eye the insect has become a
leaf, far its pursuer is concerned.
Settling on a twig, it folds its wings close
ly, back to back, with the head and antenae
hidden between them. The tiny tails OF the
wings touch the twig, forming a perfect
stalk to the leaf. which is held in place by
the middle pair Of feet. While thus at rest
the most observant eye would not suspect
1t to be other than a withered leaf.