Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-10-01
Military Neatnesss Dominates sarto-
rial Subjects.
SEDAHE STYLES ARE. PROPER ONES
The Frock Coat Has Ousted the
Getaway.
G Low E S--H rs S

definable causes, it is certain that mems
fashions for several years back and now at
the advent of another period have been for
INFLATED by tangible influences. For some
five or six years spert has claimed the
gentleman's attention. 1t has been foot
ball. coaching, cycling and golf Sport has
nodded the fashion. 1t has brought loose
easy clothes into favor. 1t has popuIarized
| oriSht colors IN craVats, waistcoats and
shirt goods; it has made proper inordinateIy
it I'D suit patterns; it has introduced pIaids
INTO every item of gentlemans outfit. 1t
has even routed long trousers in favor of
knickerbockers and long stockings. The eff
feet has been comfortable and colorful it
has frightened the erstwhiIe subdued black.
blue and gray of fashionable attire for
men, and has been altogether a relief.
Sports fashionable sway Is over, though
us eHects viii remain. A new era is before
the sartorial subject. 1t is the military
era large proportion of the m an of this
country have spent the past five months in
uniforms A large number of these have
Deen men OF fashion, leaders of fashion.
lhe soldiers instructions to their "muftis'
nave given direction to fashions bent and
the tailors and haberdashers have taken
the cue. AS soldier the man of fashion
mas learned the value of u cIose-fitting
garment to show off his athletic physiuue
ne has caught the infection of military
simplicity in design and color The re-
sultant deductions are not hard to give
lhey ara cropping into evidence daily All
garments for men are this fall being made
snug fitting. AS much attention as possible
Is given to the display of the lines of the
Hgure The sportsman plaids and high COL
ors are not eschewed, but they ar, not in
high caste. Simplicity and dignity are the
Key 10 the fashionable man of the present
autumn.
When SfVIQ
This general proposition has its applica-
ton in a thousand small ways. These are
not all dictates of fashion: they are mat
tiers Of taste They are of the choice of
the tailor or the wearer. Men laugh at
women for their devotion to variety and
claim with superior tone that men are
subject to no fashionable foibles. Such AL
legations are spurious. No one knows il
better than the fashionable man and his
master the fashionable tailor. who holds
MS weii-dressed customer in the thraldom
OF the width of a binding the. number of
but.ons on a sleeve, the roll of a collar. the
spring In the trousers, the bend of a collar
me CUT or a cum, the fold of a cravat The
slghtest variations. upset whole wardrobes
The hat. my boy, says the preacher the
nat, whatever it may be- is in itself moth
ing goes for nothing; but, be sure of it.
the hat
The frock coat will by this season have
completed its conquest of the cutaway
Well-dressed men Will Invariably appear at
afternoon entertainments. at church and on
the promenade in frock coats and all that
they imply and demand. This is not a trifIe
This coat itself must be "cut to button"
You observe the military influence No
more loose-fitting coats. The fit at the hips
on the shoulder, on the. chest and at the
collar must be snug as a, glove. The waist
coat for this year Is of fancy silk Mat
lasse," dark wines and blue blacks being
the tasteful cOl0rS
outre. The snappy and vivid touirgs have
been helped to speedy determination by
their appearance in cheap clothing The
greatest latitude is allowed a dresser in the
choice of his striped worsted trousers. the
only limitation being that the graduation
from dark patterns to light is governed by
the scale from informal to formal. A col
ored shirt with frock coat would this year
approach the improperly of a breach
Collars and Neckties
In cravats and linen the haberdasher this
year has the wearer of the frock coat at
his tender mercy. 1t is de r.geur that the
cuffs be rounded and attached to the shirt
Even millionaires have given up the ex-
ravagance of attached collars, but they
must yet bow to the fashionable mandate
which says that frock coat must be set
off by straight standing linen collar with
slightly broken tips. The cravat for this
dressing is quite new. 1t Is the Chesterfield
tied with single waterfall cross. The scarf
Is held IN place with a gold safety p.n.
which takes the form of sporting inlple-
ments-golf stick, coach horn, or whip. For
more formal occasions the familiar Ascot Is
worn in white or light colors. fastened with
small pin. preferably pearl. An edict
or no harness for formal dress has gone
forth which banlshes the watch chain and
the never-beautiful key chain
The fashionable promenader will have
small points to match in his shoes, gloves,
hat and stick. The frock demands patent
leather, Kid button-top shoes built en- an
In gloves the correct thing in this conncc-
ton is pearl SUICIDES with an unfinished
self stitching back, which, being trans
lated from technical termlnology, means
stitching of the same color as the glove
Less formal and street cofors are tan and
slate. 1t will be noted that the yellow
flesh tint is not in favor this year The
brms on this years silk hats roll close and
the crown rolls somewhat. Felt binding
mas given way to a ribbon band about an
inch and quarter wide. A stick of ma
nor1a with silver and swedge, the
palmer the better, completes this dress.
For Everyday Wear.
For morning and business wear the single
and double-breasted sacks still obtain.
single-breasted suit demands uniformity of
material throughout, quiet plaid or black
"orsted being in favor The trousers NAV
pIedh III pattern from double-breaSted
sack coat. the calf shoe will be more pop
ular than the permissible tan and it will
be laced The only emphatic edict this
year anent the fancy shirtings is that the
stripes run across the bosom and around
the cuffs. A large liberty is allowed in the
cno1ce OF derby or Alpine hat a standing
or highland lay down collar; and the va
riety Of divers colored ties in shapes desis-
mated as Ascots, four-in-hands or butterfly
bows.
In the matter of evening dress the fash
ionable man must this year watch himself
his tailor and his haberdasher more close
ly than ever. for less latitude is allowed in
all points than heretofore. Extreme SIM
pllctty and rigorous taste is enjoined so
that 1t will be easier for even a careful
dresser to make the faux pas which would
be fatal to exclusive classification as a
correct dresser. Military influence demands
that the coat fit without a wrinkle No
clemency need be expected for sartorial
purVeyor who does not drop the tails of a
lull dress coat toia point exactly behind
the knees. Furthermore, these tails must
be square cut and barrow at the extremity
II OF the same material as the coat the
Waistcoat must be- single breasted but if
1t be of white pique silk then the double
breasted is permitted. Pearl gloves with
Self' stitching, are to be worn. Stitching