The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1898-11-27

connection, is naturally different from
port as sherry is a cooked wine.
I'm spain this cooking process is accom-
plished by putting the vine aboard a sail
ing vessel and sending sit down the Medi-
terranean to the equator, where il is lit
orally baked by the sum for year and a
half, the normal temperature being $50 de-
grees In California we put 1t in what is
called a sherry house. where the same
temperature is maintained day and night
Sherry Is a curious mixture of sour and
sweet and should have an oily and nutty
flavor, which makes IL delicious ape
tizer and the right ching to serve with
oysters and soup when you begin your
dinner. A port is simply wine whose
fermentation has been arrested by the adj
dition of alcohol, and whose impurities are
precipitated by age into sediments, some
being Shiny, but the major portion crystals
line precipitation, commonly called "A saw
dust deposit
Port may be any age from one to forty
years. AS IL becomes older 1t turns tawny
and develops delicious bouquet. If bottled
the crystalline deposits will form in a
ridge on the side of the bottle, and then
you have your odd crusty port. If givea
time enough, there will form a little pow
derry sediment on the top of the crust,
which spreads out like a spiders web as
the wine is being poured and forms the
much-admired bees wing so dear TO the
equity old Englishman's heart.
Now, wine will synlpathize with the
vine so that twice every year it is .neces-
sary to start the bungs and rack indus
triously. that is, pumping from one tank
to another. Once in the springtime, when
the sap begins 20 run and the leaves to
put forth, youll hear a peculiar gurgliug
sound in the cellars and the masters VIII
run back and forth raclSing and rocking
to prevent it from putting up sub-fermen-
tations-lactate, malic and ascetic fer
menta tions-and IL II tbecones diseased it
will go through all the stages of sick
ness.
I'm vintage time it sympathzes with
the grape. Then there Is another season
Of anxiety. You can faint 1t just as easily
as you can faint milk on must coddl6
nurse and take care of it. Then 1t gets
bottle-sick and fatlgued from a Journey
OF course, it has its healthy and I'M
healthy sediment, when it is fined with
singlass, fish jelly, and is strained through
| canvas sleeves of varying degrees OF thick
ness to make il bright and clear.
I'VE test il by candle light holding the
wine before a candle and allowing the
| ruby color to sparkle in the light so clear
that the least bit of sediment can be de-
| tected.
unscienttic to serve any red wine in an
ornamental glass Let the crystal be thin
with a round bottom and slender stem to
| preserve the beauties of the wine when
| by its glow and radiance and color It
| tempts and invites you to drink 1t is
| ct mere matter of caprice and fashion,
but there is real good sense in the way
| you serve. your wines.
why do California wines masquerade
1,l,.
| INSCRIPTIONS set of dealers They have
bought our fine wines and have put them
| on the market under every label under the
| sun. 1t happens all the time. They buy
wine for Z, and cents gallon and then
sell it for nearly that many dollars a gal
| Ion by putting on labels. The only decent
! California wine one can purchase now is
under the label ofasome private vineyard.
! / would take out an accident policy before
l would sample some of the stuff that goes
! as California wines 1t is terrible! Because
of this, the Winemakers' Corporation OF
California was organized three years age
\ for the purpose Of ma r1eeting oprl pro-
| duct as opposed to the ring of the callers
| This opposition is raising an kinds of mis-
chief to-day. Ii as battle to the death
| prices are knocked out, and while it Is .
kidgioved fight it IS battle to the finish
The growers are making a desperate eff.
fort to have their product placed on the
market as it is. They contend. why should
all the profits go into the dealers hands
The dealers are ali rich; the growers al
poor. In some of the wine districts of Cal
| fornia it would make your heart ache tc
| see how the grower has been swallowed uI
by this combination of dealers. The high.
| est grade of French and German wine Is
grown in California, and we are trying tc
educate the American people up to the
point where they will quiz buying corks
and bottles and will buy what is in the
bottle"