The San Francisco call., 1898-04-17

dress of white mousseline de soie striped with dead silk, on which. are printed green and mauve chrysanthemums. This light and transparent material is loose over an independent dress oI white taf. fetas. The dress is rather long and made in one piece from top to bottom, and slightly gathered over yoke of spotted tulle embroidered with VioletS in Tom Thumb ribbon. Round the yoke Is Greek pattern embroidered in narrow
 The skirt is perfectly straight all down and Is edged round the bottom with two rows of embroidery worked in narrow can, if desired, be tied round the figure. either over the mousseline de soie, which would convert the garment into stylish sorte, or over the taffetas dress. which is very effective, as the mousSellne de soie dress falls like a full smock, showing the taffetas dress confined at the waist The embroidered with bouquets of VioletS, and the collarette is of lace running round the back and a sides only leaving the
 The sleeves form small draperies at the shoulders, over which are epaulets of white mousseline de soie embroidered with Greek designs like those round the yoke. Immediately beneath the drapery is a circlet of embroidery on each arm The sleeves are quite tight from the elbow to the waist very long and em- wrists.
 l also saw a pattern of an evening mantle in green velvet plush. This gar ment is made with a yoke, from which the body falls straight down in front and at the sides, forming pleats, which widen gradually all the way The yoke is trimmed with braid in undulating diag- onal lines, forming chevrons in front. The front is ornamented down each side with broad garlands in Japanese embroidery, the designs being composed of chrysan- themums and lotus with foliage in their natural colors. The sides and back are quite plain.
 The mantle is gathered round the yoke and is very full, so as to leave plenty of room for evening dress. The collar is ex- tremely high behind, lower at the sides and completely sloped away in front. It is embroidered like the yoke and edged with narrow, fluffy ruche of black mousseline de soie. The sleeves are in shape like those of childrens blouses, gathered at the inset and full all down.
 At Giles, r Avenue de iOpera, I have seen a dress of large meshed Paris tulle over a skirt of white poult soie. The skirt has a broad apron embroidered with flowers in white silk and bright black Spanges, and between the flowers large spots of chenille at irregular distances. The apron is cut into scallops round the bottom and detached from 8 flounce of plain tulle, frilled The right side and ground of the apron; the left side is com posed of plain tulle finely pleated. The skirt is fiat at the top in front and gath cred behind and at the side. It is rounded at the bottom a--d rather long.
 The corsage is a blouse, cut low and square and gathered at the waist The decolete is edged with black velvet, which is continued into braces both be- fore and behind, and is edged with ruche or white tulle spotted with black chenille. The body of the corsage matches the apron At the fall of the left shoul- der is large rosette of white tulle. The neck trimming is a broad piece of black velvet ribbon simply draped; the waist band of the same ribbon, not very wide. fastened behind with a small straight bow