Evening star., 1898-05-07

much as women dressed when last their
talk was Of comforts ard clothes for SOL
oierS. so-minus the the hoop skirts-ara
they dressing now. Rosettes, fringes.
Chant1ily shawls, even artificial flowers
ior the hair, are all back again We are
ready for white muslin, blue sashes and
nat hats with wreaths of roses.
ihere rs one important difference and 1t
Is hot IN our favor; the sound of ripping
ana realizing. of the parting of skirt from
Its foundations. is heard in the land much
oftener than when crinoline kept .,ur
fiounces off the floor. Wherever women
are gathered, whether at church or recep-
ton or theater. there df the average we'll
lntentioned man Is present also and who
wishes to dispense with himO the heart
breaking noise of swapping and tearing has
become horribly familiar, telling the story
OF another long gown trodden on. At the
last meeting of certain notable Wofnen's
club the effect Of an imDassioned appeal
Tor patrlot1sm was marred by sudden loud
report that swerved the sympathies of
every person present from the eloquent
speaker to the mortified little lady in black
lace petttcoats. whose entrance her care
less escort-another speaker-had SO cruelty
emphasized. The crux Of the misery in all
just what damage las been done. II faut
sounr1r pour etre belle has no applicable
1t Is necessary to suffer and, perhaps. be
extremely unbeautiful.
At Country Heme.
1t is kicking against the pricks to rebel
against a fashion. More profitable is the
consideration of such pretty white frocks
as were seen at spring dinner one day
this week in Hudson river country house
already opened for the season. The dining
room was green and white. There are no
better summer colors. provided always the
right shade of green be hit upon. They
give perfect background for pictures,
china palms and flowers. The sunlight was
but Just gone and the memory OF 1t was
stu stu IN the branches of purple and white
lilac and the great masses Of pink and
amber aZaleas
The hostess wore dress of soft ivory
China silk. whose skirt was froth OF
nounceS. Every flounce was two inches
wide. edged with lace and beaded with
narrow green rlbbone These little green
and white ripples curved up toward the
waist at the backitapd played over a mar
turn was mounted loosely over a green
SILK Lining. The sbodIce was covered with
little frills also and had a folded neck band
ana sash OF green chiffon.
One other white dress was Of ivory CASH
mere with an undersl6irt of daffodil yellow
showing through,sa scarf of lace let into
the skirt on the right side. The lace en-
broidered bodice had q deep pointed chemi
sette OF tucked yellow Chiffon
Gowns for u Garden Party.
1t Is too early to- talk seriously about
garden parties. apd yet there has been one,
almost an imprempta affair. at which the
dress, more pleasantly informal than on set
occasions. was wefthp noticing. There were
large Italian rice Straw hats trimmed with
flower garlands and veiled in gauze. as
weii as smaller shapes In straw woven to
initiate gathered ribbon, and little turban
toques In chiffon (. trimmed with long
ostrich plumes. One hat had giant rose
Ior It's crown; most flowers this season are
small, but when a millinery florist goes
into the forcing business he recklessly over
does the work, as witness poppies big
enough to pass for cabbages that have
failed to head but sprawl with coarse root
leaves. Birds still sit In the nests of chif-
ION we use for head coverings. and Punch
mas got around to satirize the fashion with
sketch wherein three little owls cling
ing to branch peer through milliner's
window. They see a big gray owl blinking
from smart hat and tell one another sor-
rowfully, Ills she. our sainted mother"
Noteworthy Features.
To return to our garden party. Large.
square, undulating collars were the promi-
nent features OF many dresses. and there
were short, fitted coats, stopping at the
waist, square-cornered. double-breasted and