Evening star., 1898-10-22
Slender and Tight Effects Are Latest
Edicts.
SKIRTS ARE YOKBD And BUTRONED
Two Pockets Are Allowed Which
Need Not Be Hidden.
G L o I Fl S ACK AT S
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
pDpyrignt 1895. By 6. M.Bs,dviH

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star
VIENNA, October 13, 1898
Fashions latest edicts have brought
about an absolute reformation of style
few months ago women enjoyed the rare
freedom of motion which the short stays
and loose blouse forms gave, and medical
authorities had reason for predicting a
new and healthy era unhampered by tight
clothing and superabundance of weIghty
cloth. when-presto change!-this much
praised common sense becCme perhaps too
common for variable femininity.
Tight and slender effects engross feminine
ambitions, the comfortable, short corsets
are abandoned and instead a tight long
armor of steel is buckIed on over hips and
waist, and is not the less uncomfortable
because it is covered with silk or satin
and daintily trimmed with rulfied lace and
baby ribbon. Over this corset form
the modern bodice Is fitted tight and flaw
less and the long basque falls closely over
the back and hips OF the cioSe-Eting skirt
which assumes decidedly larger eXpanse
below the knees and drags in undue length
TO follow the proportions of the long basque
or jacket or cape.
The tight sleeve with the very slight
extension at the shoulder adds still more
to the tail and slender effect, and we will
wor der during the course Of the coming
feminine world.
BlOuses VIII BE Worn.
Fortunately, the blouse form has endear-
ed itself SO much to its wearers that many
new models still adhere to it, and for even
ing and house wear it is as yet absolutely
indispensable. The modern skirt, however,
is fixed in its shape whatever its use may
be. The newest form is without folds at
the back, and consists of a short. close
fitting yoke cut on the bias and reaching
just below the hips; 1t closes at the back
with large fancy buttons and buttonholes,
and thus avoids any accidental aperture,
which would be likely to disfigure so tight
fitting q skirt were it not securely fastened.
To this yoke is attached the gradually
widening skirt, which measures about five
yards at the hem and be trimmed to
suit the fancy.
1t is needless to say that this form is
very trying and it requires an almost fault
less ngure and carriage to do it justice.
The bodice worn with such a skirt can also
close at the back with buttons like those
which fasten the plaquette AT the back of
the skirt.
One handsome model of gray cloth has
skirt of this description. The plaquette is
closed with three large buttons OF simili set
in silver. The yoke is Joined to the wider
skirt by wide band of guipure edged
both sides by ruches of gray mousseline.
The bodice is tight at the back and closes
with buttons like those on the skirt. The
front forms loose boX-pleat in the center
which is covered with the same wide gui-
pure with its edgng of gray mousseline as
Is on the skirt. A narrow belt of gray vel
vet finishes the bodice at the waist line;
the high folded collar well as the sleeves
are of gray velvet.
One decided advantage about the modern
skirt is that its scarcity no longer admits
of pocket at some impossible place. there
fore Fashion in a fit of unusual generosity
allows two pockets which need not be hid
den; they are attached at both sides of the
front gore under d small stitched plastron,
which in some cases forms a foundation
for the trimming which decorateS the skirt.
Capes Stiii FashionabIe.
Capes are an Indispensable addenda of the
present day attire. and the Imagination of
the dressmaker varies the form of them in
fnitely. The modern cape, however, fol-
lows the same rules as the skirt and bodice
and inclines to lending an effect of length.
The serDentine hounce has invaded the
cape also, and the most generally worn are
those which have one or more serpentine
ilounces hanging from tight yoke.
Our model serves as an example and was
designed as a completion to the handsome
gown recently illustrated in these columns.
Rich purple satin cloth also forms this
cape, which is lined throughout with pale
blue satin. Two serpentine folds add to
the length; but the most interesting nov
city consists of the broad reveres of chin
chilla which extend from the front of the
cape and form part of ii. AT convenient
length Tor the arms these reyereS form a
dainty muff, which is likewise lined with
padded blue satin. AT the throat jabot of
cream-colored guipure embroidered with
gold lace falls in artistic cascade folds
along both sides of the fur and the lace
motif is repeated at both sides of the muff.
The pointed Medici collar is also faced with
chinchiila fur.
The complete tailormade costume has
somewhat supplanted the independent
jacket SO that the latter is rarely worn ex-
cept in one of the bizarre shapes which 1t
has recently assumed. Among these the
sack form is more prominent than becom-
ing, and is generally made up of white or
cream-colored cloth.
Just Like a Mans Coat.
One model which was executed for Q