New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-11-07
ART DESIGNING A TRADE.
MRS CANDACE WHEELER GIVES HINTS
TO THE AMBITIOUS

TO THE AMBITIOUS.
THE MANUFACTURER CANNOT USE YOUR WORK |
UNLESS 1T is ADAPTED TO HIS MACHINE
PROCESSES SOME POSSIBILITIES
Hundreds Of Young women art students |
have self ma intenancc In view. The majority |
however soon recognize the fact that liberal SELF
support by means ~ art ia possible only to OK
ceptionay placed or exceptionally gifted women.
The others naturally 10 the profession Of de-
signing as a means Of utilizing what they have
learned.
II is not unwise choice. because IN This day
all successful manufacturers make certain Do
mands and depend to n certain degree upon art
for the success Of their manufactures whether
the demand will continue to no greater than the
supply depends upon the careful adaptation Of art
knowledge and effort to the requirements OF the
manufactures
There are two classes OF professional designers
tho general designer and the special one the
career Of the general dsigner IL the one most
eagerly coveted by the woman student. be-
cause IL is much more varied and interesting. but
II f. at the time the one requiring a greater
amount Of technical knowledge than the average
student can acquire in n short course Of from two
to three years study.
The general designer. TO be thoroughly accom-
pllshed and capable one. must have mastered the
whole history of decorative and applied art In all
different periods and styles. She must be able TO
compose decorative designs correctly ana success
fully whether FOR a carved wood wainscot
marble freze. picture frame or book cover.
II she chooses TO confne her efforts to Of these
things she becomes a specialist, and must accept
the duties OF the special designer.
AS rule a woman's art education s not broad
enough TO fit her to be n competent general de-
ssner. and in fact there are not so many sue
cessful women specialists as there should be. They
have not yet learned to choose certain line OF
nd exh
historical study In that particular direction.
FOR WALLPAPER AND TEXTILES.
Perhaps the most pervasive idea Of design among
students is that Of combining drawings OF plants
and flowers into repeating groups. for printing
upon textiles and wallpapers. The inclination to
pursue this line Of work is natural because stu
dents are constantly surrounded by wallpapers and
cloths and have yet learned to note ornament
in other manufactured things. Then. also designs
printed upon wallpaper silk and chntzes are more
literal. more like pictures or colored drawings
than are other kinds OF ornament They appeal to
the inexperienced student illustrations appeal
4 child.
A great deal Of artistic ability be expressed
in design for wall coverings but the field is hardly
broad enough to admit every student who wishes
10 become a designer. There are countless girl
students and not by any means equal number
of silk printed cotton or paper mills.
1t IS true every mill must employ designer.
specialist whose business is not so much
pose designs to adapt them. His skill in this
makes him Indispensable to the business and COM
mands salary Of from so to $50 week. lie Is
often wofully lacking In the sense OF composition
that Is. in the appreciation Of the grace ard beauty
possible to composition-but he is able to secure
regular employment and that most desirable thing
a fixed salary.
THIS is the polnt wish to make: That
without really artistic expression a designer who
has thoroughly mastered the technical difficulties
are mary special hnes-can secure regular employ
ment. Technical ability alone is worth salary
ately valuable often ask myself why the work
Of special designer for textiles should be so
frequently lacking in grace and artistic quality.
and why the girls who draw and compose so
charmingly should not at the same time be capable
OF su.ting their work TO the printing machine.
Either art knowledge and feeling required
the part of the student before the best artistic
results come to the public or pecuniary reward
SO far. while there has been great advance In
the qualities OF so-called art manufactures: 1t
seems to have profted the manufacturer rather
than the designer, probably for the reason have
indicated that the clever occasional designer has
not acquired routine knowledge: has not fitted the
If a student wishes 10 secure salaried employ
ment she must take leaf out Of the specialists
book she must be able not only TO fit her own de-
she must know the capacity and variety of print
ing machines. she must learn what they cannot. as
economic advantages of certain processes over
All this is certainly within tho capacity Of wom-
an to acquire. and yet know Of no instance whore
clever and original woman designer Is In regular
employment In silk or cotton mill producing good
designs. and at the same time performing what
may be called the drudgery of the profession. Tn
fortuna tey. the drudgery is at present tndis-
ponsable TO the manufacturer.
NEW METHODS IN MANUFACTURE
II must be remembered that tho application Of
art methods Of manufacture is compare
lively recent. Manufacture itself has been forced
10 meet increased demands OF commerce. and has
tic, cflI
leaving behind its od-ime companionship with art.
But when even trade and commerce began he
of loss of value I'm manufactures by this
divorce the tagging partner was hustled forward
and confronted with new problems and conditions
The mind and hand could no longer work "iSlrcly
and conformity. the thought must be expressed by
the speedy machine. II is this double de-
mand for quantity and Cheapness well for
good applied art which has encouraged sort Of
amateur design possessing many beautiful quail
ties which yet--bccause the application Of them
is not fully mastered-cannot command adequate
cOmpensatiOn
II Is this condition which must be by the
woman prop9-iug to make a profession ~ de-
signing for ;rxtile manufacture.
In other lines Of design technical knowledge Is
not Imperative. That is to say. thorough IA
miliarity with style based upon sensible under
standing of the methods Of application Of ornament
to material will 20 further than much technical
knowledge without style.
For instance. the designer Of silverware.
metal Of any kind. must know how the best effect
can he produced upon the material, but his designs
Themselves are not so governed or hnmpered by the
laws Of repetition and space as when applied 10
Reautiful and graceful lines OF ornament can b.
men without special study as 10 methods OF APP
plica ton and facility in this Kind OF compo-
sltion may be widely and vsriously useful
! must still however reiterate that continuous
en,ulovmont and salaried depend upon