The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-05-15

TED with the most delicate drawn Work
This mode of decoration seems to have
given the realest of Valenciennes a set
back, and, strange to relate, the most
costly and beautiful of these garments
are imported, not from Paris, but from
Mexico. Broad-pointed collars, cuffs
that extend to the elbow and deep
bands of insertion, are all a maze of
the drawn threads that in delicacy of
quality and beauty of pattern quite
discount any but the rarest laces. 1t is
hardly surprising TO learn the generous
prices this royal raiment brings when
one considers that the linen of which
they are made is first woven in France,
then sent to. the Mexican converts.
where the nuns and the pupils in their
school pull the threads and work the
pattern.
The ideas for the decoration and cut
Of each garment come from the fertile
brains in the United States, where nee
die women are now turning very Sc
rious attention to luxurious bridal OFT
fits Among the confections for honey
moon wear are little corset covers in
the form of sbolero jackets, tying over
the bust with narrow ribbons, while
the body of the jacket is pierced with
a Greek key or some pattern in drawn
threads. To the daintiest chcmiSe, tiny
square Jacket fronts of fretted linen
are affixed, and from the open threats
of the night dresses worked revers in
hatchet or swallow tail shape turn
back. With one accord, the trosseau
night dresses have double worked ruff
fleS falling full upon the shoulder, the
sleeves puff to the elbow. from which
TO the knee falls back a handkerchief
drapery of linen that looks like fairy
veil Among the most fantastic lily
modiste exhibits of lingerie arr - hit
dresses that button on the shoulders
and down on the left side to The hip.
With these the collar is gath ered in by
a ribbon, drawn high and close about
the neck, and knotting in big ro-
settle in the rear. Nest attractive
too are the chemise and night robes OF
pale rose, green, lavender and blue
lawn. onto which lace butterflies and
birds and trailing vines are artfully
appliqued. All these garments are fold
cd in boxes lined with white satin and
tied up with heaps of silver paper and
white silk lutte string, and not one of
them has passed under the hands of a
laundress. The brides-to-be like to buy
their costly lingerie just as it comes.
wrinkled and slightly yellowed, but
bearing beyond the question of doubt
all the proofs of hand and home
make.
Except for the brides, who must bow
to tradition and not TO the fitful fash
ions of an hour, white Undertaking
seems almost at a discount. Not only
does the coiored silk petticoat now
reign supreme, but when cotton I'M
derskirt is worn women neglect the fair
white embroidered ones for smart lit
tie house skirts of tinted lawn, crisp
with half dozen narrow flounces.
graduating from a three-inch ripple at
the foot to one scarce wider than the
finger nail at the top. Another style OF
smart walking underskirt is made of
brown grass linen with 16 to % little
flounces crimping its surface and set
on with the Spanish slope. Turning
over the simple, practical and ineXpen-
sive summer nightdresses one finds
them made chiefly of striped, lowered
and figured lawn. Every one has cir
die of gay ribbon and the corset covers
are made of lawns in solid colors, to
harmonic with the silk or muslin waist
beneath which they are worn. 1t is no
wonder that the little knitted under
vests have gone the way or ali under
clothing and blossom out on the gras-
siest greens, poppy red, burnt orange
and sharpest puppies. A great many or
these cheerful little shirts are offered
for summer wear in Shetland wool OF
the natural fleece cream color, the pure
white bleach, or in apnumber Of clear
odd colors that the north Scotland dye
them. A hand knitted Shetland under
shirt, if it is the pure wool and has
come from the Shetland isles, will run
through a woman'S wedding ring far
more easily than pair OF SILK Lose
The charm of this wool is that it wears
remarkably, is both cool and warm as
the weather requires and simply laughs
at the wicked devices of the wash
woman.
Straw goods are getting to the fore.
This does not imply a furry in hats or
that wonlankind is cutting Japanese
floor mating into summer shirt waists
and golf skirts. The announcement.
however, does imply that not to her
head alone is femininity now confining
a practical use of straw fabrics. on ne
feet she is wearing, of the morning and
about her house. the daintiest little
straw slippers that come from Switzer-
land. Sole and vamp, all are made of
flat elastic straw, dyed any clear pale
color desired. Their exceeding cooinesS
is one of their great attractions ana
some damsels, whose feet are so deli
cate as to afford the experiment, wear
about their rooms gay little straw sa-
bots. A bright yellow straw parasol,
made TO exactly resemble the roof OF
a Japanese tea pagoda, is one of the
novelties that the summer girl is count
ing among her weapons OF sea Side
warfare. Such parasol is mounted on
a large rough bamboo stick, which is
followed out and is fitted with series
of lenses thus producing species or
spy glass, also of great value to the
girl. Last on the list of straw
oddities are the belts made of an elias
tic grass. which serve as very pretty
girdles with gingham and pique gowns.
Little wraps are not what they used
to be, and there is every sign that the
red golf Jacket, with its garish green
collar and cuffs, and its metal buttons,
else that sober standby, the covert
coat, will be chiefly used to temper the
cool summer breezes to the muslin clad
lambs They are dowdy, frowsy, char-
acterless little shoulder capes that the
importers show, and our nome design
ers and manufacturers have failed 10
RI. sh into the breach. All this proves
that nothing now can save the cape
from a long period of oblivion Per
hans the golfers friend Will survive Tor
a space, but the cape as an element IN
the feminine wardrobe has run aoso-
lutely TO seed, and is about to be cast
irto outer darkness. 1t has, from a
flowing wrap of large dimensions and
fold, shrunk into a poor lit
tie friz of shoulder ruffies, while the
coat is once more regnant. A good
zeal OF interest is displayed in the
black silk coat, that promises to have
a place in summer modes. Fable Fran
caise, heavy Armure, bengaline and
ottoman silk are all being cut up into
hi ndsome belted jackets with full front
ruches Of black and cream lace. Inc
bodies of the more expensive ones are
chastely adorned with delicate jet ap-
pliques, and a good many women are
wearing grenadine coats, made over
colored silk Innings. These, of course,
are the indulgences of the rich, but