The times., 1898-10-16
New Shape Invented by the
CZarina of Russia.
FLOWERS MADE OF FUR
The Newest Evening Silks Are Re-
spIendent in Fabric and Hue-The
Latest Ribbon Importations Are n
GIorificntion of the Polka Dot.
Surprising Combinations in Gloves


the true magnifcence of the season
just closing. Silks and furs are the
dominant topics OF interest in clothes
land this week, for hitherto nobody
could speak with any authority what
soever on the long or short-haired skins.
1t really is not until the cold winds
strike in, and the women begin to put
their new furs to practical uses, that one
can tell what is smart and what is
dowdy.
A decidedly nose-reddening breeze
whipped out of the north a few days
ago and then the fun in furs began. A
large majority of the women clung to
their cloth coats, honoring the change in
weather by pretty stock collars of satin
that wrinkle close about the throat, but
let fall under either ear broad, roll
ing triangles of fur That is to say, with
a brown Zibilene coat would be adopted
full stock of damson red satin or velvet
having overlapping points of rich Rus
sian sable.
Another a smoke gray coat, was topped
off by stock of cornflower blue velvet
and the large points were Of chinchiila.
These points fall well down on the shoul-
der, and really cover the sides of the
collar, and many of such neck fixings
have two wedge-shaped ends of fur, one
long and one short, that fall out on the
chest about six or eight inches. A collar
ette that answers to the above outlines
and good-sized muff is considered effec-
tive and perfectly sufficient fur trimming,
though there is no reason to assert that
small capes, shoulder pieces with stole
fronts. or in fact any of the good ortho-
dox cuts of fur have lost one whit of
their popularity.
All the new capes, of course, are shawl
shaped. their sloped fronts treated very
often with graduated arrangement of
tails. but for warmth these new gar
ments are a snare and a delusion. They
seem fairly to invite and hold every icy
blast. The most commendable of the
cape family are those rather graceful
little fellows of cloth. that only drop TO
the elbow and have revers and high
collar faced with fur.
Some of these capes are cut from
very gaily colored cloths. in warm reds
and blues and are satin-quilted inside.
which adds many degrees to their
warmth. With all these wraps exceed
ingly high collars are worn. without ex-
ception, and among the small things in
fur are long scarfs of mink, marten and
otter, Russia and Alaska sable, that
pass about the outside of high collar
at its base, and tie in a double bow
knot in front. Such a scarf keeps the
collar close about the ears. and gives
comfort to the wearer's neck. and they,
more than anything else. have delayed
the reincarnation of the long boa.
Over in Russia the fair Empress has
given the ukase on muffs, for it is said
that the only fad of that gentle, melan-
choly woman is for furs. Just now she
prefers a melon-shaped muff with street
dresses, and a good big fellow at that
The muff is made of ten pieces of fur, so
braced that they pun up at their broad
est point leaving the center of the hand
warmer some twenty-five inches in cir
cumference, while the orihces at either
end are very small With some toilets
she adopts a small muff made wholly of
polar fox, sable, or ermine tails. and the
few that have been imported are worth
from $500 to Sl,500. There simply is no
question as to their beauty, but the price
is so exclusive. that many women are 60
ing to content their gently covetous souls
with ostrich and marabout feather han d
protectors.
For a good, serviceable, simple and
tasteful muff there is nothing better than
a big fellow of densely brown or gray
cub wolf fur while Persian lamb, mink,
and Alaska sable, in reticule melon
shape, are to be as extensively used as
ever.
A very pretty and novel fur-trimmed
muff is made in the double reticule shape,
of cloth, with the fur applied in any way
desired. To make one of these long.
rather narrow cloth cylinder is arrang-
ed and tied tight, in the middle with
handsome ribbon finished with u bow.
Into the bow a couple of fur tails can be
judiciously twisted and then, where the
hands enter, at either end the muff is
again drawn up with ribbons into as
small orifces as comfort will allow
small Outstanding frill can be left at both
ends and trimmed with fur tails. but the
muff, when completed should have TWO
distinct compartments for the hands.
Women to whom money is no object
are undoubtedly lending themselves to
the fascinations Of the very long fur coat
that buttons up double breastedly in
front and has long solemn cutaway tails,
but she who is wise well as a lover
of beauty will scarcely invest any capital
in the new surtouts, as they are called,
for their days of popularity will be ex-
ceedingly short. II is very easy, howev-
er. to have TO Il last years fur coat small
pretty hip-long cutaway tails adjusted
and lace jabot or complete new front.
of bright brocaded satin and lace, laid on
over the bust.
There really is nothing that has not
been told over and over again to tell
now about the application of fur as a
dress trimming. Bands and bindings of
mink or broadtail crop out in accepted
style on handsome cloth and velvet
costumes. though in Paris they do cut
from broadtail some very lovely con-
ventionalizei patterns of fruit and
flowers, and applique them on velvet.
Short of trimming a gown with pure
gold leaf. there - scarcely any decora-
ton more eNtravagant than this, or any
more richly beautiful.
One damson purple velvet, brought
over from Paris, had. a series of large
broadtail bowknots. holding loose pop
pies of the same fur. applied on skirt
and body. Where the edges of the fur
lay on the velvet, a finish of the finest
jet beading was used, and all the GEN.
tiers of the poppies, and some delicate
intermixed vine-like traceries were
done in this black sparkling ornamental
ton. II was a costume. however. only
suitable for an extravagant million
airess.
Gowns. however. that will be worthy
ity are those made this season of the