The herald., 1898-10-30

smartest combinations Of the moment was
the skirt of plaid, worn in conjunction with
plaid cloth coat. This mode has since
strengthened its hold upon our affections
to such an extent that almost every other
well-dressed woman one now meets on
mornings is clad in tailor made of the
above description. ThJ vest and the shape
of the coat may vary, but the skirt remains
the same. just now black and white or
black and gray combinations are in favor.
One really very chic model of the sort had
a skirt of black and gray plaid cloth, with a
broad white line running through it.. 1t
bore simulated tabler, outlined in black
velvet, and was ,as the latest and most ex-
travagant mode insists on having it. ut
least three inches longer in front than its
waareY, who, / am bound to add, seemed
at loss to know what to do with her super
fluffy of drapcry. So few women there be
who carry their skirts gracefully. The coat
was a garment of exceeding brevity. 1t
was lined with white satin, the tiny revers
and collar being faced with white kid. When
the wearcr unbuttoned it-by the way. the
buttons we're also covered in white kid and
had centers of black Jet caught glimpse
of n blouse of white satin much tucked and
adorned with motifs of black lace. These
motifs were applied so as to simulate n
Swiss belt. and, of course, had the effect OF
making the waist appear considerably
smaller than it actually was. / wonder does
there live woman with soult So dead that
she does not care what size her waist is?
/, for one, doubt it. But to return.
II Down the front of the blouse as far as
the bust line ran little bows of rather broad
black velvet ribbon, each adorned with a
button of pierced glass. The sleeves were
tucked: know it, because ] made so bold
as to ask; ct viola tout | have mentioned
the coat buttons of kid with the jet centers.
These reappeared on the gown also. for the
better adornment or security, perhaps both,
of the placket hole. And as to cut, that
skirt was a vertable eelskin. Indeed, if
skirts get any tighter the fashionable wo-
man of the near future will have to take her
meals standing or lying, after the manner OF
the old Romans, for sitting down will be an
impossibility. Needless to say, these skirts
require the most perfect cutting and tit
ting, or else mass of unsightly wrinkles are
bound to result.
We are threatened with hand-painted
cloth gowns this autumn, or so | was in
formed when | paid a recent visit to q
noted Fifth avenue firm. Thus tar only
dark browns blues and green's have been SO
ornumented and most of the designs were
of a leafy character, though one very pretty
one consisted of tawny chrysanthemums
on brown ground. But if these gowns take
other colors are sure to follow in their
wake. These hand painted robes differ
from those which have been so popular for
evening wear during the past season in that
the edges OF the design are, in every in
coarse silk. Whether or no they will be-
come popular remains to be seen. Doubt
less the searcher after novelties will, with
out delay make one of them her own; but
for my part | do not think gown-be it
built never so well--of this description will
1,1t al
gance of a plain tailor-made. One merit,
however, we must concede to them. They
are not likely to become vulgarized, for the
simple reason that their shop price is pro-
hibtive, although any girl who is clever
with her brush and her needle could easily
have it made up by a reliable tailor. Many
firms, / feel sure, would consent to this if
they were allowed to supply the material.
The firm above alluded to is making a
speciality in autumn dresses built of the
new .. cloth; TINS is rep, almost st. poplln IKE
resembles face cloth Both are used on the
same gown. Thus one model l saw in to-
mato-red cloth had the skirt of the rep side
of the cloth, the tabler being made up on
the reverse, ]. e.. plain side. | may remark,
en- passant, that this was Psipe,d with baeE
revers of the face cloth also piped with black
satin and there was a tucked grille of black
satin at the neck. 1t was rather a smart lit
tie gown, and | was informed that this
cloth will in all probability be the material
of the winter season. 1t has certainly made
good start. for | saw some half dozen mod
els built thereof, though on slightly differ
ent lines.
The blouse is still with us, though ele-
gantes and dressmakers unite in announcing
its departure and declare that the world of
women is quite tired of it. To be sure, it
is no longer exactly a blouse in most cases,
but rather separate bodice. We illustrate
quite the latest novelties in these this week.
| know very woman who reads this will be
glad to study them and feel that a new waist
does not yet necessitate a new skirt. A skirt
now is a serious matter, and how women
are going to manage their extraordinary
length not only in the back but at the sides
and front remains to be seen.
Investigating new neckwear we find that
linen collars and cuffs are replaced by those
Of white foulard SPOTS or figures. They are
mounted on a stiff lining and stand washing
quite well.
Boas, which are seen so much on the
street, are now frequently worn in the house
on chilly afternoons and evenings, and are,
of course, very becoming. The white net
ones, spotted with black, are perhaps the
daintiest of all. Nearly everything in the
neckwear line, whether of net, taffeta or
mousseline de sole, is edged with narrow
ribbon put on plain or gathered Cascade
knots of lace, dotted with crimson or gold
spanges, are new and very beautiful. Never
has so much fancy lingerie been employed
for ladies' neckwcnr.