Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1898-01-22

second. that what Is obviously a sign
board hangs over the door. on the side
toward Broadway the figures on the
board are completely blotted out by
time, while on the other side a dim pic
ture of the original Tom Holahan Is dis
cernible. sitting as though to receive
guests. The other side once showed
Tom with mug of ale in his hand sit
ting beneath picture OF General Jack
son In full uniform (Tom was a Tam
many DemocraD, and the whole was the
work of young man named whitley
known afterward as Judge Whitley of
New Jersey, who painted the pictures at
various sessions during which paints
were not the only liquids that entered
into the workman's consideration of the
subject.
As you enter the door there is a table
to the left and laid upon 1t is tooth
some array II ever there was one. for
each article displayed is selected with
the utmost care and is as perfect OF its
kind as the market can supply There
are thick red and white steaks that all
most say. Eat me-" as edibles are wont
to in fairy books: chops of famous
Southdowns. choice kidneys, fish of all
kinds, celery, lettuce, and in season
game Of all sorts In variety. but of one
kind in point OF excellence. and that the
highest. The floor on which you tread
is strewn with sawdust and sand. and in
front of you is little low bar, behind
which are pewters and tobies and APP
petlzing looking fat bottles of bitters
and spirits. and among them lives and
has lived Jack" who for 81 years past
has opened 'Old Toms" at 1880 in the
morning and said good night to 1t at
| 1880 in the evening. these being "Old
| Toms" hours for business. "Jack' at
one time was employed in the "Original
John Smiths" but he was secured for
"Old TOMS after many diplomatic
| overtures.
The room-there is but one-is set
with black walnut tables, stout and
solid, and the tops and edges of them
are worn with the scrubbings of years.
| The light that streams through the win
dows is subdued in the room, and even
the roar of Broadway comes deadened
| to the ear. Old prints depend from the
wall. not dusty. for everything is scrupu-
lously clean, but faded and reminiscent
of quieter times when foreign market
quotations came by sailing packet and
the incoming of vessel was an event to
celebrate which people of the town who
occupied semirural homes even as far
north as Barclay street came down to
Bowling Green to greet the arrival.
There never has been and never will
be bill of fare in the place. You listen
to what they have. give your order, and
the waiter goes to the sliding shutter
that communicates with the kitchen
and repeats 1t. Then IL It isn't right
but this never happens-you have a
chance to correct 1t. If "Old Tom" him
self takes the order. you have another
opportunity to witness the lack of any
spirit of innovation. for. regardless of
the person or dish, your mandate is
delivered In a voice always pitched in
one key and always modulated (?) in
the same way. While waiting to be
served there are files of the daily and
weekly papers to read. and in keeping
with the spirit of age that pervades the
place file of Punch is always at hand
for those who like old jokes with their
old ale.
"Old Tom" himself is parsonage OF
60 years or SO. His face is rubicund
/ and looks as though he ate his own
good fare and drank his own old ale
His eyes twinkle with fun, and his
memory is n marvel, for he can name
on sight almost any guest who has ever
| eaten at his house, and in the busy
hours he keeps track of the orders OF
40 or so people with unerring accuracy
The place will be "Old Toms" for years
in all likelihood. for Tom is a hale man
and hearty. but there is no young
Tom" to succeed him, as his family con.
sists OF four daughters and no son
This seems unkind of fate. but, after
| all. 1t must be regarded as a sort OF
Nemesis. for never has gentlewoman
been allowed to enlarge her sphere by
taking luncheon or supper at "Old
Toms" So much for the famous down
town chophouse!
| OF different sort was ''Browne's,'
up town. and yet they We're bound by
the tie that many of the men who had
luncheon at noon at "Old Toms" drop
ped into "Browne's' at midnight for a
rabbit or a grilled bone with toby for
nightcap. But its regular guests were
for the most part actors, men about
town. authors and literary men.
The founder OF Brownies" was George
Browne. himself an actor and a good