Omaha daily bee., 1898-05-29
OF SUMMER.
Novelties In silks Wire Humps. Golf
fures and p~nrnsOls.

lures ana PnrnsOis.
Whether she has the silver to spare or
not, every woman dressed for an occasion
OF any dignity Just now wears the fruit OF
the mulberry tree. Never have there been
80 many different and lovely weaves OF silk
on the market before. Satin faced foularhs
rule the morning hours, Bayadere stripes
on raw and finished taffetas queen 1t In the
afternoon, while brocades and crepes, Ben
gal satin damasks, Tussore. Damascus Gre
pons and Paduasoy dominate in ball rooms
and at dinner parties. A degree Of sensa-
ton has been aroused over the revival OF
that silken goods that our foremothers in
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries
wore, and the rich and beautiful Paduasoy
now on sale is all carefully reproduced from
specimens of the silk preserved In muse
ums. Because Of its splendid interviewer
decoration this silk is especially utilized for
the lengthy trains that matrons assume, for
panel fronts and for the vests OF very gor-
geous visiting gowns. 1t lends itself, by
reason of its stately quality, to the bold
colorlngs now the mode, and In a deep true
copper yellow, porphyry purple and glowing
malachine green, or flame red, 1t appears on
toilets of great ceremony.
Back into the fold OF fashionable types
OF things silken has come the goodly otto
man weave and the chine effects also, while
on this topic II is quite impossible to pass
over the charms Of a new version of MORE
velours. Now we have 1t as velours soleil,
or sun velours, differing from its predeces-
sor in that both its sides are alike, while
instead Of falling in very soft folds 1t now
crlsps and rustles like a taffeta. Any
woman who is in doubt as to the special
fashionableness Of n silk may hold to this
truth that at all times and seasons a MORE
is a safe purchase. At this very instant
there Is n particular taste displayed for a
regal sort of weave known as nacre MORE.
This is a silk white as an angels wing and
showing waving stripes of white satin over
1t. Every satin ripple is outlined with a
thread OF pale blue. which really does not
look blue, but by some secret known only
to the weavers merely lends a clearer, more
dazzling wilderness to the folds and surface
of the fabric. Less costly than any of the
silken types described above and yet as pop
nlar as any, while more suited to young
women, is our old-tried friend, crepe de
chine. This IS to the fore now in lovely
width in bayadere stripes, or less expensive
still printed in tiny marguerites and peri
Wrinkles, on a white or rosy ground.
The Hustle Comcth.
The busy little hustle is at it again,
painstakingly trying to creep into favor and
always finding a certain coterie of women
willing to put it on probation and their
backs. Up to the present date it is no larger
than ones two fists and is worn as an odd
little hump of wire and mohair close I'D to
the waist line. Women who have not yet
bent before the hustle fetish wear strange
boned petticoats. The bones run in castings
from waist line to, hem, following a bias in
clination, and while holding out the over
dress most staunehly, they do not fail to
add tremendous weight about the hips. To
avoid wearing these boned under draperies
a number of the thoughtful and inventive
have run hoops of thinnest steel, no wider
nor thicker than a baby ribbon, through
the rear WIDTHS Of their skirts. This is a
rather more hygenic solution of the hustle
problem than any plan yet attempted, but
dressmakers, who know a thing or two
insist that with the coming of princess
fashions, bustles must and will assume an
important place in every wardrobe.
There never was a time when the dress
makers levied more freely for ideas on the
fashion plates of sixty years ago than now
The mitten sleeve of '3S is one of the rein
carnations of that by-gone day we have
fallen heir to, and it is obvious that we will
soon fall into the way of wearing the full
lawn under sleeves, dear to our mothers
hearts. One can already buy pretty ex-
amples of these in the shops. made of the
finest French batiste. delicately worked in
embroidery stitch and caught close about
the waist by muslin bands and fine old
fashioned gold cuff buttons. To wear with
these 1t Ia necessary that the dress sleeves
should have the fiaring cut. broad and hang
hg otsn at the bano; though so far the
effect OF the undersleeve Is usually given on
shirt waists. and the new walking coats are
cut at the wrists to exhibit the wearer's
fine white linen.
There Is no telling how long this fancy
may last, but for the moment at least num-
bers OF very discreet women are wearing
contrasting skirts and waists. For example,
a skirt of white ottoman silk will be finely
striped from waist band to hem with narrow
black silk braid, laid on In Spanish circles;
with this a waist Of cafe au lait faille will
be %donned, the golden tint of the silk re-
lieved by broad revers embroidered in white
and blue, opening over a vest of black and
white, to match the skirt. Always the motif
from the skirt is brought In somewhere about
the body, to show the relationship between
the two, and the leading combinations of
this sort are made with a skirt of grey cloth
and a blue, yellow. green. or red silk waist,
having grey cloth introduced at some point
In its makeup.
The Couture.
Tall white plumes waved in every little
bonnet during the winter, and now that
combs and flowers and divers other prettI-
nesses are considered appropriate for the Golf
fure, women are wearing huge white satin
bows In the hair of an evening. These bows
are made in three loops to a side and are
built in the form OF the high comb, now so
very popular. High and higher climb the
loops and puffs and bands of hair as the
season advances, and more and more album
dant become the little bob-curls. Chestnut
gold is the fashionable tint of hair at the
present writing. 1t is even more craved by
those who have 1t not than the once coveted
blonde locks. As a matter OF fact, nature
rarely bestows this rich tinting on the head
OF the American woman. for the pure pale
chestnut is an English feature and one very
hard TO initiate with any degree of success.
The curly bang, after a season or two Of
suppression. is beginning to fringe out
rather luxuriantly again. II runs in a row
OF coquettish little curls. from ear to ear
over the forehead. while those women who