The Holly chieftain., 1898-12-16
FASHION AND FANCY.
A Few Notes on Clonks and Wraps
New Materials for Winter
Jackets.

W NAlt lHtIt AS'~'
ties and decided innovations in styles
of wraps and cloaks, it may be COM
forting 10 the feminine heart to be told
that one may wear last season. gar
meuts with very little modification
without getting entirely out of the do
main of fashion.
Prudent women who foresaw the re-
action that always comes after en-
tremes and put away in their cedar
closets their good jackets of several
years ago may now shake them out
with the comforting assurance that it
is the easiest thing in the world to re-
model and revamp them into perfectly
acceptable autumn and winter wraps.
A notable feature Of jackets, and one
which may be applied to the made
overs. is the cut-away front. This,
with handsome vest, makes an other
wise out-of-date jacket extremely pre-
sentable The sleeves are easily recon-
structed. and one has. with some labor,
but comparatively little and sometimes
no additional outlay. good garment,
aud one which it will be a satisfaction
to wear.
There are many women who enjoy
resurrected wrap of this sort. If they
are able to indulge in all of the novel
ties of the season they can in this way,
provide themselves with that almost in
dispensable secondbest which is one
of the most desirable additions to the
wardrobe of the well-dressed woman.
Among the novelty jackets are those
that at first glance suggest mans
dress coat. except that they are not
as abruptly cut off al the sides. The
skirts are quite long and have just
enough fullness to make them grace
full and comfortable. but not enough
to suggest undue bulkiness. Wide,
handsome lapels and fancy collars are
seen on almost all the new styles. The
facings of lapels have come TO be
feature of the garment. They may be
of some simple and plain material or OF
the most elaborate and expensive de-
scription. The quality of the coat itself
appears not to determine that of the
lapels, for upon some not particularly
high-priced cloth coats we find en-
broidery and needlewrought lapels
that are, in themselves worth many
times the cost of the coat material. The
body of the fashionable garment is in
effect three-quarter length close
fitting jacket. Whatever it is outside
of this is due largely to the trimming
and finish.
Black velve; is among the favorite
materials for jackets. and it is made up
either entirely by itself or with satin
or other rich silken fabric. a few
black satin coats are seen. but this ma
terial seems to have given way to vel
vet for cooler weather. although in the
matter of warmth there is but little
difference. as the lining and padding of
winter wraps make the weight and
warmth of the original fabric of very
little account.
The newest collars are somewhat
broader than those heretofore worn,
many of them faring out from the
throat in way but little suggestive of
warmth. hut with these are worn
little scarf or tie that encircles the
throat quite closely. Too much wrap
ping around the neck and chest has
ptth 50 sti ohSis distouidseu Ds HHeU'
ical authorities that women are learn.
ing to avoid the close wrapping in
which they formerly indulged. The
boa has put many a fortune into the
doctors pockets and is unquestionahly
the cause of more throat ills than any
fanciful article that has been adopted
for years. The boa. by the way. or
indeed. any other close wrap for the
throat, is quite unnecessary, if one does
not begin its use. but once adopted it
is almost out of the question to aban-
don 1t until the return of warm wealth
er, il one would secure immunity
from throat troubles of all sorts. In
the matter of capes. there Is wide lat
itude allowed. and many styles from
which to choose. Capes are short, so
short in fact as TO appear almost use
less for warmth, while others, and
these are the most favored. cover at
least one-third to one-half the length
of the skirt. Tine cape falling over the
upper third of the distance below the
waist is sensible and practical. 1t fur
nishes protection to the body where
it is most needed. and if correctly made
is graceful and becoming.-N. Y.
Ledger.