The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-12-14

Inc novelties III ledltiSle WYNN
az volume to describe, and the plumage
that has been specially utilized Is the
guinea fowl. ii has the merit of novelty,
ana we rana1ot recall its use for many
wears back. 1t shows TO advantage in a
green velvet toque, which has in the front
a couple OF green wings bordered with
guinea fowl. the corner turned ward
over the crown, for velvet is generally ar
ranged In circular folds.
Turquoise mingles we'll with green IN
the millinery world, and a toque in this
mixture has a gathered velvet brim, on
which a broad band of impeyan feathers
is laid. starting from a large velvet DOW
in the centre of the front, secured by ar
oval ornament.
Hats and toques are brought into SO
great a prominence that bonnets are oftch
set aside, but the new models are close
fftt.ng and exceedingly smart. a black
one is a good example, covered with JET
the brim waved INTO flutes and edged with
narrow chiffon b~ouillonnes, three hand
some ball headed pins in front are crossed
over the centre bow.
Chenille figures in a great deal of new
millinery. especially on Transparent
toques, the foundation apparently horse
hair lace, forming the groundwork TOT
large pearls and seqUins, which IN one
xampl were black, but bordered WIN
steel. This was one of the large toques,
turning up boldly from the face with a
couple of wings, one large ana small
The crown was helmet shaped, ana coy
cred tightly with satin antique. III feseh-
bled that which figures in a madndarlhss
beadpear and was surrounded by black
ostrich feathers. the brim being decidedly
eleven in front. Nearly all the toques run
mn above the brow. and are mingle with
asnrev AZ all events in the front. a
l;eht cerise velvet is often employed for
the bows. accompanied by black feathers,
spotted with white, for everything is spot
ted neutrality-suspicious., wooden faorics'
laces. silks and chiffons. A new rice
plait. very light, of a delicate mauVe
tone. has been employed for a close Mt
ting toque. rendered important by very
wide bows of mauve velvet in front, min
gled with guinea fowls plumes.
In untrimmed felt hats there is a vast
variety of light shades, which. except for
summer wear. we have not hitherto asso-
ciated with that material. Light plues'
light pinks and light mauves are ready Tor
adornment, having black velvet edgings.
Among these the mushroom shape would
seem very specially to hold its own. put II
shows many varieties. In some the brims
go up at the back, in others they turn up
in the front. while some are wider on one
side thar on the other. The material itself
has been subjected to a great variety OF
treatment. and in many cases has been SO
blocked that 1t looks as if 1t had been
padded at the edge, while in others a
similar ridge surrounds the crown, and
this is nearly always low.
Quite young girls are wearing very
minute crowns, indeed.
There is an indication that we are to
dress the hair low in the re-introduction
of the old pork-pie hat, low and fiat i'll
the crown, with a turn-up brim of the
same height. generally covered with vel
vet of the same height, and originally
derived from the toreador of Spanish bull
fight fame, though the rosettes, that are
an inseparable part of that headgear, are
not a certain accompaniment TO it's proto-
type.
Some of the new felt hats nave APP
pliaue bands of the material in contrast
ing colors. and occasionally they appear
under the brim, four being stitched on at
qua distances. This is an expensive
treatment to carry out and amongst the
newest modes of the moment. The helmet
shaped crown has been generally adopted,
especially in the soft, pretty eolors
brought out for the autumn trade. Many |
of these examples are green on the out
side and blue inside, and for riding hats
rows of stitching find a good deal of favor.
MANY of the new-shaped felts, Intended
to be worn on more dressy occasions. are |
singularly picturesque. the broad brims
IN ~, ~. liz H. ro1+ s :. -. - Zls
scallop, while others form a crescent over
the face or a double demi-circle crossing
the front. This is singularly effective in |
the new dahlia shade.
The new eoIors of the season have be-
come fixed facts. Blue puppies and pur- |
pie blues, shades of plum grays from sill
yer to stone, reds of ruby, and the newest |
of all reds of the Jacdueminot rose.
which are lovely beyond words; browns
of chestnut and leaves in all millinery
trimmings, but especially in velvets and
feathers.
Wine shade, which used to be called
groseille, is greatly favored now in mill
linery, and some of the largest toques are
made in this, of velvet and silk combin-
ed. Rosettes of tiny wings. figure on
some of the headgear, and bonnets are
not so far removed from practical policy
as some of the chroniclers of dress would
hav us believe. They are minute. but rem |
dered important in the front by OUT
spreading wings of velvet, forming a
background to some steel and pearl orna-
ments shaped like wings. The ibis fea-
theirs, in white and pink, form an impor- |
tant front to a fraise ecrasi velvet toque, |
quite unique in it's way.
Stitching Is the craze, and the top mark
of smartness on all hats. Velvets. finely |
stitched for drapery effects, quite in the
same style as cotton goods are finished.
are now seen on the finest French crea- |
tons. In the same manner, bows, brims. |
etc, show no end of stitching. White felt
hats have been raised to the highest pin
nacle of millinery smartness. They are
yet new on this side, but are making
their way into favor. trimmed with
clusters of big roses on their upturned
brims. and worn with white cloth gowns. |
nothing could be more chic. Those Of the |
wideawake order. with banded crown.
and quill at the side. are worn when
driving OF wheeling.
Mr.. Man ought to have something given
to him at Christmas that will be Of value |
to himself alone-not something that you |
yourself ave long WISHED to decorate the
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