The record-union., 1898-07-17

It seems quite likely that the new
retrousse hats, turning abruptly OH the
face, will be very strong rivals inns
season TO those worn very far Forward
or tilted up at one side and down on
the other This latest retrousse model
may be extremely becoming to some
faces, but to others it will prove quite
as trying as the Pompadour coiffure
which leaves the forehead devoid or
one saving grace of falling curl, tendril,
wave, or wisp Of hair.
Knife pleated frills appear once
again among the fluffy trimmings OF
the airy summer gowns both for day
and evening wear. These are placed in
every possible position on bodice and
skirt, from neck to hem, and very fire.
qunetly on the large round hat, and
the effect is complete when match
ing ruffie-trimmed parasol is added.
There is much GOODNESS and grace i'm
parted by these frills of finely pleated
transparent muslin, net, silk, or lace,
and they give a remarkably pretty fin
ish to a neglige gown or jacket. The
dainty Marie Antoinette fichus of fine
organdie muslin, plain or lowered,
crepe de chine, taffeta, foulard and
peau de sole, worn with the round
wasted gored- -sl1irted gowns now fash
ionable, have a quaint old-fashioned
look that is quite enchanting.
=
The fancy grenadines are lovely this
year as indeed are all the new grena-
dimes, for never was there such Won
derful and beautiful variety. Very
elegant, also, are the silk nets, and diff
ferent importing houses show different
treatment Of these handsome textiles.
AT one establishment on Broadway the
black net is in princesse form, over
sheath-shaped slip of cherry-red moire-
AT another noted house the beautiful
black net has a foundation of ivory
satin with bodice trimmings of white
lisse almost covered with black guipure
lace sprays and insertions. A third
gown is decorated all over with cut jet
bow-knots, garlands arabesques and
scrolls This gown is made up over
nasturtium satin. and the collar and
girdle are of brilliant orange velvet.
There are no surprising novelties in
parasols this year Chiffon is almost
omnipresent, and when this is absent
lace is found There are far more
fancy models exhibited than those for
utility uses, the only serviceabe styles
displayed being those of pongee or of
silk in plain or fancy patterns.
The most elegant black gowns just
now shown at the importing houses are
of very lustrous watered silk, made in
princesse style. and trimmed very elab
orately on the bodice portion and front
of the gown with black lace, with gir
die and yoke, bretelle or vest-piece Of
the finest cut jet.
At a recent wedding reception the
bride wore white satin, with a fchu
of Duchesse lace, the gown further dec
GRATED with bodice and skirt trimmings
OF mousselaine de sole. The brides
mother wore a princesse dress of silver
gray satin. brocaded with white rose
buds and trimmed with white lace. A
cousin of the bride, a tall, brilliant
brunette, appeared in toilet of cream
yellow chiffon over yellow satin, with
girdle and collar and elbow-sleeve
bands of the most vivid geranium-red
velvet. There were gowns of very
beautiful summer brocade without
number, showing delightful color
schemes, the union of soft primrose
yellow, tea-rose pink violet, and tender
green being particularly noticeable. A
gown Of white silk net over Spanish
yellow satin showed in fine contrast
TO one of black lace over violet watered
silk. A white chiffon dress over white
MORE, trimmed with white Venetian
lace and a MORE sash, was one Of the
most beautiful of the youthful toilets
worn that evening The mother Of the
wearer of this lovely toilet appeared
in a costume of white and mauve
striped silk en- princesse, the bodice and
skirt decorated with mauve silk ruches
and lace frills. Rare diamond orna-
ments added greatly to the effect Of
this handsome gown. The brides trav-
cling costume was made OF Havana
brown drap d'ete, with guimpe and vest
beneath the low-cut slashed blouse Of
white silk, crossed with lines of fine
cut bronZe-bead gimps. The edges of
the blouse We're finished with rather
wide bias bands of brown velvet. The
brown satin-braid hat was trimmed
with ostrich plumes, brown ribbon and
white aigrette.
"A very large portion of the diaphan-
Gus silks and muslins this year are
trimmed with loops, bow-knots. bands
and floating ends of velvet ribbon Of
medium width
The gray gowns this year are ex-
tremely dainty and handsome. and they
appear in every sort Of material, from
linen, pique. batiste, nuns yelling. and
cashmere, on through the array of at
tractive dress fabrics to crisp stand
alone taffeta, satin foulard, crepe de
chine. Inoire, faille, and summer bro
cade.
Bright -colered capes of pleated silk
muslin, lisse, chiffon. and transparent
silk are one of the fancies of the sea-
son. The material is accordion pleat-
ed. and pillows and yards of 1t are used
for each cape. which is pointed front
and back short over the sleeves; it is
sometimes finished with very long scarf
ends. The most attractive of these
dainty CONNECTIONS" as the French cali
them, are In creamy white. Others are