Evening star., 1898-10-15
FOR UP-1O-DATE WOMEN
Neckwear is Tall, Whether Silk or
Linen.
White Collars and String Ties in
Favor Fancy Ffxings in
Chiffon and Lace
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

1
| is always, apparently, obeyed by women
who dance to Dame Fashions varying
| strains. This year another command has
| been given, Lofty thy collar as thy neck
| can bear And at the price of some dis
comfort, this doctrine is being followed
AT least we can congratulate ourselves on
| not being obliged to wear high linen col
lars. Except by those to whom they are
very becoming they are generally laid aside
new for softer-yet still higher-neckgear.
| If you do cling to collars it is well to know
that round corners have taken the place
| of the two high stiff points which long
caused agony to a tender chin. The round
corners enable one to wear collar at least
an eighth of an inch higher with mucn
greater ease. With these collars are worn
narrow string ties. During the summer
these ties were made of the same material
as the shirt waist. Now they may match
the silk waist or may be of pure white or
| of some gay bright silk which will give a
touch of color to the more somber gowns
of the hour. Butterfly bows are affected
by some women. The ends of these ties
curve in and out, giving the broad effect
to the loops and erds which Stimulates the
butterfly.
The bat-wing tie is made of a broad piece
of silk. 1t is about two and a quarter inch
es wide at the ends of the tie which form
the bow, while the center which goes
about the back of the collar Is sewed to-
gether on both edges, 50 that ii is just
half rs wide as the front Both of these
ties can be easily copied by any one VINO
will take the trouble to carefully examine
an original at some good mems furnishing
shop. When made at home they can be
made of more unique materials, and will
cost about one-fourth of the price for which
they can be bought in n shon. 4 woman
who wears a thirteen inch collar should
never wear a string tie more than thirty
inches long. With this length she can tie a
short, square bow. Every half an inch OF
length after thirty detrlcts from the smart
ness of the tie. If linen is Worn it Is well
to know that 2ique collars are considered
quite smart. They are the s1na shape
high and plain, and seem to be most worn
with soft silk scarfS tied n four-n-hdnd
knots. One young woman from Paris has
been wearing pique shirts with stiff bCs-
ON this autumn. Generally she affected Il
four-in-hand tie with soft wide ends long
enough to fall down over her imlnacuIa te
linen and be tucked into her belt
Turnover Linen Collars.
In one New York shop devoted to the
most exclusive designs in winter and sum-
mer shirt waists linen collars are still used
almost entirely to the exclusion of fancy
stocks. 1t Is more English and more Sc
we're to have a neck finish nf white linen.
The collars used by this particular firm are
turned over at the top, the turnover part
not joining eitha~ front or back thus Civ
ing one chance to Wear wide tie, which
VIII give the eHect OF q rlDDOn with TWO
turnover points of white linen. These col
lars button in the back and are not at all
new, but are always most neat and at
tractive. They are stil won with soft
Windsor ties, long enough to go twice
about the neck and hen tie IN a square
soft-looking bow. No bcttec neckwear for
travelling can be devised. A dozen of these
collars a few Windsor ties and couple of
large, soft scarfs for a change. and one
could go to the Klondike immaculate and
comfortable aboIt that important part of
ones attire-the collar.
Almost every elaborate sort of gown now
adays calls for a touch of white pale
colors at the neck, and in ord er that we
may vary that color one may purchase
have made stocks and bows of every color
of the rainbow. One of the newest and
daintiest stocks is made of chiffon mounted
on silk. The chiffon may be white, laveu-
der, pink. pale blue what you will. 1t
Is shirred in four five rows about the
very high silk collar, and is finished With
two square loops bows of shirred chif-
fon. In fact all bows. whether they have
ends or not, are much shorter and squarcr
than last year SO the long, dropping
scarfs of chiffon and muslin which we wore
last year must now lac shortened, so that
they will only make square bow, although
they may still droop.
Lace in BiIIowy Falls.
The ends of the long scarfs which are
made this year more elaborate than
ever. Therefore, if you are contemplating
making ties, look over all your old laces
and utilize them extensively. The very
newest ties. however, are simply very much
trimmed, and plated ends fastened onto
a high stock. which may be tucked white
silk, wrinkled white silk or plain white
silk. In the latter instance it is covered
with null and lace to match the plated
ends. High tucked taffeta stocks, with two
plated ends edged with lace, have appeared
to show how should make the col
lars to match silk waists silk gowns.
Sometimes. besides the tucks or accordion
plating of the stock-whichever it may
chance to be-there are cords run per-
pendicularly through the silk. Thus 1t may
be seen that nothing is too elaborate for a
collar. Some very smart collars of silk,
which are made to match silk waists, are
high and tucked and finished with a SIM
pie, squarelytied bow of the same ma
terial.
The most elaborate French models, which
are trimmed with satin and lace-in fact,
the most exquisite calling and reception
gowns which have yet appeaTed-are fin
ished with very high collars and two tiny
high pieces, either pointed square which
appear to be intended to keep the neck
warm just behind the ears. In spite of their
odd appearance, they are very becoming
to most women.
Stocks With Fancy Jabots.
The fancy vests which are gradually
coming into favor, call for most elaborate
collars and ties. A black broadcloth just
imported had a waistcoat of white cloth
covered with gold embroidery. The stock
was of white silk with tiny, turned-over
points on each side of yellow Valenciennes
lace inserted in white null. The tie was
simply a soft fall of plated null with the
same Valencennes, and the lapeIs Of the
black broadcloth. instead of being of white
cloth embroidered with gold, as one would
suppose, were Of soft null with insertion
and edge of the narrow yellow Valencien-
nes lace.
One Of the prettiest stocks Of all has for
finish knot of shirred mousseline de sole
from which hang two long ends of mousse
line de sole edged with lace, which reach
halfway to the waist.
Almost all of the stocks and collars now
worn can be made at home at about half
the cost at which they could be purchased
1t was not always possible to do this as
fitting the collar is a crucial test. But
nowadays one may buy a bias stiffened
braid which fits the neck perfectly and can
be used as a foundation for every sort OF
collar
Original and Chic.
Nor need one be confined to the conven-
donal bow or tie which others wear Moth
Ing is so refreshing as novelty in anything,
provided it is fresh and stiff and looks con-