Santa Fe new Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1898-1951, 1898-06-15
LIVE FISH DELICACY.
BRAND NEW DISH IN SAN FRANCIS
cos CHINESE RESTAURANTS.

Is Brought In Swimming In a Tub-Then
Sliced Along the Back and Sides and
Vinegar Poured In Its Eyes Served
With q Thick Brown Sauce.
Some of the most select of the China
town FOUNDERS in San Francisco have
been treated during the last few weeks
to a brand new delicacy. According to
their earnest opinion, it is wonder and
way ahead of the kindred delicacies of
birds nest soup, sharks fin, picked
ll-chee nuts, preserved eggs and similar
Comfits.
1t IS understood, however, that this
new delicacy, while strange to the white
patrons, has been popular in China for
a matter of 1000 years or SO. At any
rate, the Chinese patrons of the amaz-
ing dish seem to know and reverence it,
and to all intents and purposes it is
hailed by them as the average American
bows down to the subtle terrapin.
Simply described, the dish is no more
or less than raw, live fish. Usually it
appears to be some species resembling
the salmon trout, but on occasions it ap-
pears similar to the rockfish. If the
Chinese chefs are to be believed, these
fish are brought alive from China in
tubs, and this statement is in a measure
corroborated by the statement of local
fish men, who say the fish are unlike
anything found in America.
1t is only the favored few of the white
patrons that have had the opportunity
to sample this new dainty. Others that
have asked to have it served have been
received with that blank expression used
by the willy Mongolians to confuse the
white barbarians. But the favored ones
that have tasted it say it is good, even
delicious.
1t requires at least a days notice to
obtain the new dainty, for not even the
regular Chinese patrons car get it Off
hand. Then when the dish is ready to
be served the patron is notified to pre-
sent himself at the restaurant.
AS a preliminary the guest or guests sit
down to preliminary dinner of the usual
birds nest soup order. Then, when this
is cleared away, the servants bring in,
with much ceremony, a tub of clear salt
water. In this the fish is swimming
about, alive and lively.
Having presented the tub before the
guests, the chief attendant, with a dex-
trous hand, grasps the fish by the gills
and lifts it from the water. Laying it
upon a long lockwood board, he takes
from another servant a thin, curved steel
knife, sharp pointed and as sharp as a
razor. Turning the fish SO that the back
Of the head lies between the thumb and
forefinger Of his left hand, he inserts
the knife with a quick upward move
ment under the dorsal fin.
Instantly the fish ceases its struggles,
and with another deft stroke the knife
is run along its back, laying bare the
spine and the ends of the ribs. Turning
the fish, first upon one side and then
upon the other, the head man makes in
cisions from the gills clear back to the
tail. This done, he bends the head and
tail together, and with a barbed skewer
fastens them. At this point another SER
want hands the carver a vial of strong
Chinese vinegar.
Decanting the fluid so that a single
drop hangs from the lip of the vial, he
taps it gently SO that the single drop
falls into the eye Of the fish.
A single mighty convulsion immedi-
ately seizes it. With II writhing shud-
der it turns over Oh its back, the flesh
falling on II side and the entire skele-
ton of the fish on the other. Then the
head servant claps his hands, the serv-
ants remove the bones and v~iscera, and
with a few more quick movements Of
the knife the fish is sliced into conven-
lent portions.
After the quivering flesh has been
placed upon plates the servants pour a
thick brown sauce upon it, and, still
quivering, the fish is passed to the
guests.
Those that have tasted it say that the
brown sauce thoroughly DISCUSSES the
fishy taste and at the same time removes
the repugnance that one might feel at
eating raw fish. Some of the more ar
dent admirers Of the Chinese cuisine
say they car readily understand why the
Chinese hold the dish in such reverence,
but others less enthusiastic say they can
see nothing better in it than UNDERGONE
cod or half broiled mackerel.
A few days ago one of San Francis.
co.'s society women thought she would
do the honors to a friend from New
York by giving one Of these fish din.
ners. The affair, however, was not a
success, for both the New York woman
and her unmarried sister became death
ly ill during the preliminary cere-
monies, and before the dish was served
were obliged to rise and hurriedly leave
the restaurant. 1t can be imagined what
the disgust Of the Chinese chef was at
this instance Of American barbarism.
The others, however, remained and ate
the fish.-New York World.
The Professors Love Poem.
Why does it haunt me, haunt me-, haunt me