The times., 1898-09-18
Any Shape You Please, But
Always the COckade.
A QUEER COURT SLEEVE
Only n Woman With Perfect ShouI-
ders Should Try 1.-THE Tailor
Outside Pocket Is Something De-
cfdedIy Newspaper skirt Innings
0utwear Those Made of silk.

strong September gale, bearing felts and
velvets in its arms. How far, from a
standpoint of beauty, we have profited by
the change remains to be seen. There
are those who look very dubious over the
autumnal prospect, so far as it reaches,
and candor demands the confession that
a goodly proportion of the much-heralded
toques look very like hasty puddings.
They are, in the majority of cases, eX-
tremely solid affairs, built on the strata
principle; that is, layer of felt, then
a superstructure of yelver, above this
spangIed or embroidered tulles and final
ly a topping off of feathers. Such toques
as these look quite as we'll set on the
head hind side before as the other way
round and. by their weight and heat, they
are calculated TO injure the growth of
ones hair, even to the bringing about of
incipient badness. AS regards height
these complicated round things are stall
wart to degree, and they can be no
more tolerated in the theaters than the
wide and lofty headgear we fell heir to
last spring.
There is, however, a silver lining TO this
cloud Of objections. for the greater num-
Der Of these toques are distinctly pretty,
and to ninety-eight women out of a hun
dred the toque is a becoming crown. One
good thing about il is that it blends most
comfortably with your circumstances,
and if you are quick with your fingers
you can weave hat TO match nearly
every gown this winter For example:
Heaps and heaps OF these jaunty little
top-knots viii be made of just the goods
from which visiting or walking gowns
are made. If your best suit is TO be
rich French livery cloth, a fourth of
yard of the stuff, gracefully puffed and
distorted over a wire frame, gives you
the toque proper. Add to this q knot of
two of bright harmonious velvet, caught
down by brilliant ornaments, right from
g hat Of last year, tuck in a fluff of
short ostrich tips over one ear, and there.
without a hint or help from milliner, is
a thing of beauty and a Joy for all au-
tumn. AS a matter of fact there is no
reason, in this season of small head or
naments, why women of any depth OF
purse should not have as many changes
those fortunates who never borrow any
thing from last years wardrobe, but be-
gin every season with brand new raj
ment from toe to crown, are going TO
revel TO the point of extravaganza among
the special materials, imported and
otherwise, that the milliners offer for
toque construction alone-that is to say
the painted velvets and the embossed
satins, not to speak of the chenille en-
broidered nets that are spread forth in all
their seductive richness. These, for rich
folks, are the very corner stones of toque
building, and there is a lovely goods, cali
ed braided satin, that has a great vogue.
Breasts and the tail feathers of birds
are, for this particular specimen of hat
most sought after and utilized so that
the sheeny plumage will fall against the
hair at either side. Last winter there was
a fancy for wearing a knot of white
ostrich tips straightly outstanding from a
point somewhere Just above the left tenn
PIE. This season the same earnest atten-
ton viii be given to velvet horns jutting
at corresponding angles from just above
either side Of the brow. Sometimes the
horns are twisted and spring from jewel
ed circles, sometimes they stand straight
forward and erect like the pricked UP
ears of an intelligent donkey and some
times they are laid back and close to-
gether, in 4 very good imitation of
mules obstinate expression. But they
are, piquant, aggressive and indisputably
most chic and becoming. Almost as char
acJeristic OF the newly arrived race of
toques are the rosettes, or to better de-
scribe these ornaments. the fi1unting
bows that adorn them at the front. sides
or rear. A wheel bow proper is circular
ornament Of any material preferred with
q jewel in its center. Those most univer-
sally adopted are made Of smallest black
ostrich tips, of soft and highly tinted wa
ter fowl pIumage. springing from a spark
ling center. Exceedingly narrow ribbon
with wired edges makes a captivating
cockade; 50 does crisp net, and even a
bias piece OF velvet, with its rim treated
with fine gold milliners' wire. serves.
Though the rule of the modes is that
all toques are fashionable. not all fash
ionable headgear of necessity takes the
form Of a toque. On every hand the
most enucing felt shapes attract enc
in the millinery marts. What these
shapes enjoy, however, in common
with their tOque brethren is roundness
and petteness of form Leaders among
them. in the department of distinctly
ornamented hats, are the Little Cor.
poral. Post Boy and Peter the Great
shapes. The Little Corporal is nothing
more nor less than a small incroyabl,
or the Gueerly cooked felt hat, that was
worn in the period of French dandyism
Immediately following the French rev.
oluuon. 1t is built of the most silker
Soft felt, and in his mighty youth Ma
poleon the Great wore one; at least
when he was a little corporal in the
French army. In Napoleon's day q
cockade. significant of the liberty
equality and fraternity that was sup
posed TO reign over the pseudo repub-
lie, adorned the face of the sharply
upturned front brim. and the milliners
have everywhere made use Of the idea
Instead Of liberty, equality and fra.
ternity, the huge rosette on the from
Of Little Corporal hat usually repre-
sent rank extravaganza and love o
color The cOckade is made of mirror
velvet; It's nigh as big as a baby cab
bage, and in its heart sparkles a jewel
Rosettes on a more modest plan, AND
some of them with floating ribbon ends
seem half-falling out of the trough-lil1
sides OF the hat; or a knot of ostricf
feathers trims off three corners ant
usually a mild panache of the sam,
plumes waves above the crown of tn,
hat Occasionally the front brim of
Little Corporal is slit in the center from
crown of a brilliant color in sharp con
trast with the brfm. This mismatchint
OF the two parts of hat is a favorit'
device for the fall, and one and all th'
good felts show an exceptionally sof
and pliable quality.
State blue, peacock green and copper
brown are some of the favored colors in
felts so far, while the importers are
showing hats that have fur crowns ano
felt brims, felt crowns and velvet brims
and very smart walking shapes made al
of the toughest braid wound on wire
frames. In velvet shapes there are many
new things to captiyate ones admiration