The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-12-04

Written for the Sunday Standard.
New York. Nov. 30.-Millinery occu-
pies every true woman's mind perhaps
more than any other department Of
dress. and it is curious what an inn
mense diversity there is in the styles.
The small, close-ftting toques. hats
and bonnets are all things of the past.
The foundations of bonnets are, may
be, mere caps of velvet. but then they
have outstanding coronets Of jet or vel
vet and Paradise plumes extending on
either side in a wonderful manner; in
fact. many women look all head, SO
broad is their head dress. and so inn
portant the soft tulle rosettes or the
flower introduced beneath the rim.
Most Of the toques stand high in the
front and are turned up sometimes on
one side and sometimes on the other.
At last American women realize n
fact that has always been apparent
to the French. that the most important
item in a good appearance is the head
gear. The new hats are very dressy.
Sometimes the crowns are corded and
tucked all over. There IL a new stuff
employed to cover them called ~'taufe."
which has rather a rough. woOlly sur
face. with this effect. Ii is employed
i'm white. pink and blue; as well as
other tones. and is decidedly one of the
great novelties. Many of the wonder
full hats worn I'm the lncroyable and
Merveilleuse period have been re-
adapted to present requirements. As
an example Of this. fresh from Paris
comes a felt hat, with a crown that re-
calls the high silk hats worn by the
men of our day. but with a difference,
and a very decided difference. too.
There is the same circular fiat top In
the crown. but the chimney pot below
this diminishes in size until IL reaches
the brim, which is composed of fiat, cir
cular tucks of felt in two shades, and
the brim curls downward towards the
ears. This is most effective in "A red
~shade-the rich. luscious red of the mo-
ment. now called dahlia, closely allied
to groseille.
Velvet of that tone is being much em-
ployed. Fancy quilts Of many varie-
ties stand up from the face, thrust
through rosette bows I'm a very curious
fashion, and the modes necessitate our
ignoring many old prejudices. In the
first place, felt this year is being lib
orally trimmed with flowers. Dark vel
vet. with tulle and fur, would seem
never to be ou Of place. For the FIRST
time caracule has been dyed brown Tor
millinery purposes.
Milliners have invented many new
forms of rosettes. We have the old cir
cular pleated kind. and the newest are
oval. made i'm satin, surrounded by a
tiny gathering of the same material,
placed erect on the front of the up
turned brim. and secured by a diamond
ornament.
Surely there cannot possibly be
enough birds Of Paradise TO fulfill all
the requirements Of the moment. they
stand out boldly from mink toquCs, the
fur forming not only the br.m but the
crown. The hTim turns up in a semi
circle over the face, with a tuft of lace
secured by a buckle made OF paste, set
in the center OF a red velvet rosette, a
bird of Paradise springinE out to the
left. Astrakan Is treated I'm the same
way. for these fur toques are quite the
smartest things Of the moment, and II
Is not surprising that they are eXpen-
sive: sometimes the crown Is made OF
mauve velvet, the upturncd brim only
OF chinchilla, with punches Of Neapul-
itan violets I'm front and at the back.
In picture hats he large size of the
headgedr il most apparent. Here again
the brim turns up and ostrich feathers
stand out I'm all directions In the most
wonderful way, which demands a first
rate modiste to compass, for I'm modern
millinery a step from the sublime To the
ridiculous is but a short one.
White felt is much the fashion, es-