davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1898-10-13
STEAMERS.
PORT ORCHARD AND PORT WASH
INGTON ROUTE

PORT TOWNSEND. SAN JUAN ISL
ANDS AND WHATCOM ROUTE
STEAMER LYDIA THOMPSON
Carrying United States mail, leaves cir
dock. foot OF Main 'tree,. Sunday. Tues.
day and Thursday q. II O'clock insdnight
for Port Townsend, San Juan Islands = ID
Whatcom Tuesday, Thursday and satnr.
day at 4 m. J. r. Thompson. manage
owner. Lilly Bogardus & Co. agents. Stfv
Dock Telephone. Main g.
FOR BELLINGHAM BAY, ANAcoR.
TIES AND blaine
Steamer George E. Starr leaves Centra,
Dock Seattle, al y. m Monday VI
nesday and Friday. Returning, ieaye~
blaine p. m, ard Whatcom p m Tues
day, Thursday and Saturday.
LA CONNER TRADING AND TRANS
FORMATION co.
Tel Main III Central Dock, Seattla
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1898-10-13

Ere between Seattle and Tacoma, 50
cents Round trip. s. ecDts.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1898-10-13
PUGET SOUND g. ALASKA STEAM.
SHIP COMPANY.

SEATTLE & EVERETT NAVIGATION
COMPANY
GO ON THE GREYHOUND.
The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1898-10-13

CAPT. L WILEY. Manager.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

wise any of these new styles. The regu-
lation tailor-made gown cut according to
the latest model will be far more salts
factory. The cut of the jacket enables
the wearer to use it as separate gar
ment with other skirts. and there is plen-
ty of room underneath for the silk or cot
ton shirt waist.
Unfortunately for comfort, the long
skirt appears inclined to stay even in
tailor garments. And a short skirt even
when ftted with consummate art, GER
deal of walking the long skirt is simply
impossible. 1t is decidedly wise to have
two skirts made to the one jacket. One
SKIRT cut long and the other short enough
skirt.
In the end the two skirts will prove
economical.
With tailor-made gowns fashionable wo-
men are wearing street shoes cut on
men lasts, made of precisely the same
style leather. but of lighter weight.
Inc style of tie or neckwear that is worn
with tailor gown plays an important
part in making or marring the general
erect: The broad silk scarfs in gay coll
ors, tied in the Ascot under the chin and
extending to the belt, are as popular as
ever. Those displayed in the shops are
very expensive but they can be made
by purchasing striped silk by the yard.
The edges can be fringed by pulling out
the threads at the end, as If for hem.
stitching, until the desired length or
fringe is obtained.
If all the accessories are correct, one
may always feel properly dressed in the
tailor gown-that is, for street and prac-
teal use. Even women who go shopping
in their carriages never wear anything but
a tailor-made gown unless they intend
to go calling after shopping.
To sum 1t all up, wear correctly made
tailor gown at the correct time and place.
Do not ruin its simple line by lacking
on frou-frou effects.
Learn to appreciate the use or tailor
gown and to Shun its abuse.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

recent medical writer gave the follow
ing as his definition of a plain cook: "a
person of either sex who brings fire and
meat and vegetables together and let's
them fight 1t out among themselves for
a dinner: the next bout being In the
stomach of the unfortunate partaker of
the repast, and the next perhaps, with
the doctor as bottle-holder."
Fried foods that are sent to the table
swimming in grease will soon show their
destroying effects upon the complexion,
and ice cream soda water, that delight of
the summer girl, is utterly ruinous in it's
effects. creating sad havoc in otherwise
we'll ordered StomachS.
AS an hygiene bill of fare for the day
l would suggest a breakfast consisting of
fruit, saucer OF wheat, rice or hominy
which has been steamed for hours and
served with rich cream, rolls or toast and
thing substantial, eggs cooked in any way
save fried and a delicately broiled chop
or bit of steak. To this may be added
a glass of milk or, # preferred, cup
of not very strong coffee or tea.
For lunch, croquettes of any sort of
meat, cold meat, or some savory stew
will be found palatable and healthful; a
light salad, tea with lemon, bread sliced
very thin and buttered. fresh fruit in
season; and, out of season, cooked fruit
and cake which has been made with the
proper proportions of butter, spice and
eggs.
Dinner, which should be the principal
meal of the day, should begin with soup
to prepare the stomach for what is to
follow A roast of beef, game or poultry
cooked until tender and nutritious, pota-
toes, mashed or stewed in cream, some
deliciously prepared vegetable, followed
and tomato sauce with grated cheese,
and afterward a salad of lettuce, celery,
chicory or crosses, dressed with OIL and
for dessert, rice pudding, corn starch.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

the capercailzie, figures In hats and bon
nets, and every pheasant wing that has
been shot for sport and food has been
utilized for millinery, the brown plumage
being enllvened by the Introduction of
bright green, red or blue here and there.
We have returned in our allegiance to
bright colors, not one of which has been
ignored in feathers and all of them as
beautiful as taste may dictate. Judging
from the display feathers are taking the
place of flowers and no good whatever has
been done by the crusade against cruelty
to the feathered bipeds which has been
Waged so long; and more is the pity.
All the autumn and winter boas will be
in fashion; feather ones whenever 1t is
possible, and the innovation in these is
that three colorS are introduced in one
example-white, yellow and blue; white
mauve and black mingle together. Other
ruffieS are made of ostrich tips spotted
with chenille; this studding of chenille
introduced on to feathers is making
great change in the modes. Ruffs or soft
killed silk are we'll worn, too, and in
pretty much every color but in Paris
black and white have the preference, and
next to this comes gray tipped with white.
Black with tiny white spots is also worn.
Fichus are in most constant demand.
Valenciennes, the most fashionable being
white ValencienneS, with the pattern out
lined in black. Some of them are made
in the finest chiffon, bordered with ruff
fled lace, in which acorns are introduced
into the design, the edges bordered with
tasseling. Detached collars of all kinds
are made in silk and cotton. They gem
orally take the form of a sailor collar
at the back, and reverse In front, bor-
dered with frilling, united by narrow
beading and white embroidery.
There are others made in white muslin,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

The farm lies between hill and the
river The Rev. Mr.. Schwarz must be
a man of interest--1g personality, judg-
ing from the house he built and from
the anecdotes of him that are current.
The farm was decided to Mr.. SchwarZ
in January, 1858, by William Keith. Mr..
Schwarz seems to have been largely
imbued with ANTIQUARIAN instincts. for
when the John Hancock mansion in
Boston fell victim to the iconoclas-
tic spirit of the age and was disman-
tied, he secured a part of it and took
it to Greenfield and added it to his
house From an architectural point of
view the addition is not a success. It
impresses the visitor as having been
fired as projectile at the house and
set up where it happened to strike
rather than having been a part of the
original design The columns of the
veranda, the front door. the front win
dows, which are slightly convex with
circular tops, are all taken from John
Hancock's house The interior of one
room, which is now designated as hav-
ing been the chapel, is finished entirely
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

complexion will be of no avail so long as
the internal economy is neglected.
The duty Of food is two-fold. 1t should
supply heat to the body and replace the
by labor and exercise.
Therefore there are two kinds of food
that which is heat producing and that
which is nutritious Carbon and hydro
of life burning, and all kinds of meat,
bread, cakes and SweetmeatS-in fact
everything which can be made out of
sugar, fat and flour, contain these ele-
etables are almost, wholly lacking in
them. Therefore the diet should be
changed with the seasons.
In summer less heat-producing food
should be taken. Eat things that are
cooling instead of heating to the blood.
such as fruits and vegetables. Fresh ripe
fruit reduces the temperature, improves
the digestion and tones UP the system
generally, and as a beauty food has no
equal.
and oily matters is needed. Meat con-
tains fbrine, bread gluten, both of which
elements are necessary for the renewal
of destroyed tissues. Casein is found in
milk and cheese, also in beans. peas and
other vegetables, while eggs give us al
bumen, which is also found In the soft
parts of vegetables, particularly in the
turnip. These substances are essentially
the same and are all necessary to restore
tissue aid support life.
Doughty food, such as heavy bread, un-
derdone pastry and rich cake, can be di-
gested only by the most hardy, and If
persisted ain are almost certain to cause
impaired digestion.
as in the food itself, and intelligence IS
required in compromising nutritive foods
out of crude ingredients. The average
cook does not possess this intelligence. A
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23
laTEST
In FEaTBERS.

c. HE variety in feathers this season
is quite unprecedented. Their great
H feature is that the majority of
il them are trimmed. We used to
consider that a feather in itself
was beautiful enough, but now even os-
trich plumes are tipped with contrasting
spots of chenille, and these make very
pretty ruches for the neck. The feathery
gourras is blended with quilts, one side
of the quill being replaced by it, often
with specks of other feathers attached.
This is new enough, but not so new as
the Introduction of a beautiful real but
tert1y on to bustard quilts; some of them
are large brown, finely marked butter
flies, in contrast to the quilts and the
gourras plumes they accompany. Osprey
breast feathers are also blended with
butterflies metallic-tinted plumage of ev-
cry kind, as well as shaded feathers,
have been laid under contribution by the
mllllner, and fan shaped plumes have
been fashioned to stand erect behind
quills, which as often as not down their
center rib have a ruche of added feath-
ers, very fluffy and curly. The guinea
fowl has not only been elevated to a pin
nacle of fashion in its natural gray col
ors, but it has been dyed in the new
ruby, green and bright orange tones: in
deed, yellow figures largely in the feath-
ers OF the moment. Large birds, with
four wings instead of two and dyed any
color required, have found great accept
ance with fashions caterers. These are
to be had in heliOtrope mingled with
green, or in red and green, or in blue and
green, for greens of every hue have been
adapted TO piumes, as well as more bril-
liant magenta. The impeyan feathers Dor
der many of the wings, while others are
Indebted to pailettes for some of their
beauty.
Indeed. looking round at the supply of
quills, wings and feather ornaments of all
kinds, 1t is apparent that the force of in
Yention can no further go. A sort of chine
effect in colors surrounds some of the
blue feathers and some of the quilts are
of different tints on either side. Short
quilts have been mounted into large
sheafS of green. yellow, white or brown,
and paradise plumes are mingled with os-
prey. The French jay, with its beautiful
light and dark blue tint, has simply been
utilized as it is. The Mercury wings are
sure to be employed in every light. as
well as dark tone, judging from the enor-
nous variety in which they are to be had,
many of them spotted with chenille
The spotted Tetra, which is, in fact,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23
* SMART TAILOR=MADE GOWNS. "

custard, farina or fruit, cooked OF, raw.
can be finished with crackers, Brie or
other cheese and small cup of black
coffee.
hours old. Masticate your food thor
oughly and do not drink a quantity of
water with meals. This should be drunk
between meals and at least quart OF
it a day.
Many foods are considered medicinal.
Among these are spinach and dandelion,
both of which have a direct influence
upon kidney troubles, tomatoes Which
contain vegetable calomel and stimulate
the secretions of the liver, celery which
Is recommended as a nerve tonic, and as
paragus, which is a blood purifier.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

sponge bath. If you will take three parts
of rice powder and mix one part of finely
powdered orris root with it you will find
it very nice for excessive perspiration.
Apply 1t freely with flannel cloth. Do
not allow yourself to become excited.
MARGARET-You are right The diet
has much to do with facial blemishes.
However, it is not SO much the quantity
one eats as the quality. Avoid all greasy
rich foods, and eat plenty of fruit. Above
all, keep the body scrupulously clean by
taking daily tepid sponge bath and
warm tub bath once or twice a week.
Then each night scrub the face well with
a camePs hair face scrubbing brush,
tepid water and CASTLE soap. after which
rubbed into the skin. little piece of
powdered borax put on a piece of linen
and rubbed lightly into the skin will
also help. Je regrette, ma chere mign-
onne de n'avoir pu repondre plustot a
votre lettre, mails il a fallu qu'elle at
tende son tour CONNIE les autres.
Recrivez moi.
ALMA T.-There is no local applica-
ton that 1 know of that will positively
remove the congested little blood vessels.
Very often they will scatter and disap-
pear of themselves. Sometimes applica-
lions of witchhazel will help to dispense
them. l am sorry | cannot give you
greater comfort than this. 1 do not
think it at all likely that any one will
cause you mention, so do not let that
trouble you
F. S. CT should not change the
temperature of the water in which [
rinse my face if l were you. Wash it in
tepid water and rinse it in tepid water.
would not advise any one to take ar
senic, unless prescribed by a physician.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

color, with white and black striped
sleeve lining.
this every night, not wiping it away.
A tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut
grow, but you must not let it get into
the eyes, as it will smart and infiame
them. l gave directions to Blonde in
last Sundays Call how to gain flesh. No
doubt your friend saw it. For your bill
ious friend l would suggest that she eat
plenty of fruit, particularly oranges and
while the biliousness lasts, and drink
neither tea nor coffee.
]. C. G.-Your first letter was answered
in the Sunday Call of October 8. l hope
B. ]. E.NFor the smallpox pits would
advise you to start in upon systematic
around over the surface of the face with
the fingers well Smeared with the skin
food formula, which is given in reply
day, apply this lotion: Alcohol, II drains;
tincture benzoin, drains; liquid stora1.
drains. Put ten drops of the mixture
sponge the scars, allowing it TO dry on
the face. For the falling hair use the
hair tonic suggested to e. j., unless your
hair is very oily, in which case something
else would be better. Touch the center
of the wart lightly one a day with a
lunar caustic pencil 1t will turn black
and gradually disappear Great care
must be taken not to touch with the pen
ell the surrounding skin, else stain and
scar may result. Here is good tooth
powder: Carbonated magnesia (pow-
dered), 6 parts; orris root, parts; pure
powdered soap, one-half part
F. B. BUDD-Excessive perspiration is
BILE, although it may in no way interfere
with the general health. Sometimes
however, it is caused by extreme nerv-
BUSINESS and debility. in which case il
ing and may require medical treatment
Avoid hot baths and take a daily tepid
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

sidered an expensive luxury. But they
can be cleaned to look as fresh as when
new. When purchasing your veil select
a chiffon or silk tissue net.
When it soils put 1t into alcohol and al
low it to soak for five minutes. Do not
rub it, as that destroys the fineness of
the mesh.
If the first alcohol gets very black it is
best to put the veil in fresh alcohol for a
few seconds. Take the veil out and gen
tly shake it, the air quickly evaporat1ng
the alcohol. Your veil will look as good
as new. The alcohol can be saved and
used several times, thus lessening the ex
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

daily baths and exercise are as
essential when one starts out to improve
the complexion as are the necessary col
ors upon the palette of an artist when he
essays to paint a beautiful portrait. In
deed, so long as one puts into ones
stomach the sort of food that many do, a
perfect skin is as utterly out of the ques-
ton as it is, to make straight hair natu-
rally curly. The stomach resents bad
treatment, and when food is sent into it,
such as no self-respecting stomach could
accept, and be cheerful over, it at once
Ievenges itself by putting forth signals
of abuse in the shape of pimples, black
heads, shiny cerise noses and all sorts
of unsightly facial blemishes. So treat
your stomach well. if you wish it to treat
you well.
For simple home fare the beauty seek
er must not depend on any strict line of
diet. Variety is the essential for all
higher forms of life and intellect. Neither
can any absolute law be laid down which
will apply TO everybody, for what is one
mans meat is literally another mans
poison, different temperamentS requiring
different treatment.
Daily habits which are regulated by
proper digestion are as necessary to a
good complexion as air, sunlight water
and exercise. For when certain functions
become inactive, the pores become clog
ged the skin yellow and notified and the
eyes lose their luster and the erstwhile
f1ower-like beauty has lost it's perfect
ness, and is a mere dropping, withered
Semblance' of it's former self.
External preparations for clearing the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23
To 9LEaN
WHITE Wells

S0P BLACK or colored veil cannot be
Y v successfully cleaned. Unless a
~ black veil is a very expensive one
the dye is apt to smudge the face
Especially is this true in summer, when
the face perspires freely. White wells are
cooler looking and more. becoming, but
they soil easily and are, therefore, con-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

rather of the yoke form, pointed back and
front edged with an insertion bordered
with lace. Quite new are collars and
cuffs made in thick jacketnet, and hori-
zontally tucked all over. to replace linen.
Mildew may be removed by simply
making a soft paste Of equal parts of
chalk and common soap. Wet the
stained goods and place in the sun I'M
til the spot disappears.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

For ink spots on linen, lemon and
salt acts equally as we'll as the poison
Gus Salts of lemon" Rub salt, we'll
moistened with lemon juice, on the
stains and place in the sun until they
die out. 1t may be Necessary to apply
more than once, but the result is sure
If the ink must be removed in dull
weather stretch the spotted article tight
as drum over a cup of boiling water,
rub on the salt and lemon thoroughly,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23
TOQUES 4RE
COMING

PARIS, Oct. 9.-Autumn is here. Inc
hats proclaim it.
A decided little autumn note has crept
into hats and bonnets this week. The
fluffy white picture hats are giving place
to somber smaller hats whose chiefest
charm is chic.
Most of the smartest of the new hats
are toques shaped especially to perch
comfortably on the top of the pronounced
"pompadour," and there is a, decided pref
erence for the toque that tits directly up
at the front.
Flowers and feathers are being replaced
by wings and birds. Not the tiny birds
that have been so much in vogue, but pig
cons and still larger sea birds with wings
all distended.
Often on one of these dark straw toquess
just a single bag bird with outstretched
wings constitutes the trimming.
Another important feature of this falls
hats is the graceful Louis XVI bow of
wired velvet or ribbon that adorns SO
many of the smarter toques. 1t has a
careless, . graceful, Just-happened-so
look, and it seems as though the slightest
arrangement of loops. Touch this bow,
though, and you are convinced Lat 1t IS
as solid as the little gold brooch that it
has been modelled from, so securely is 1t
wired.
An attractive, unconventional little
straw toque is made of rough green
straw. The brim is rolling and turned up
directly at the front and back, allowing
the sides to dip. An arranI zen t. OF
, the crown. On the front of the brim and
a triffe to the left side is a Louis XVI
bow of black velvet drawn through a
hoop of StraSS.
Perched on the top of puffy. fluffy. up
to-date couture, the curve OF this toque
is exceedingly graceful.
A dresser little toque DESIGNED for a
visiting toilet is made of spangled pale
gray mousseline de Sole draped full. At
the front there are three immense wings
in a striking shade of burned orange,
tipped with black. Two Of them are
they rest on the hair and the middle wing
mounts the toque. At the front there is
a tiny ruche of narrow velvet ribbon that
A simple, girlish affair is made of plait-
ed gilt braid and narrow mauVe velvet
ribbon. 1t is fashioned in the form or a
square Tam O. Shanter, that turns di-
rectly up at the front. There 1t is
trimmed with a tall bow of wide old gold
satin ribbon drawn through square
buckle of amethysts.
Novices in the art of cleaning gloves
at home must keep in mind that gaso-
line, and not benzine, renders kid as
soft as new, and the gloves should not
be washed on the hand. but immersed
and rubbed between the hands as II
using water A quart of this fluid may
be bought at paint store for five cents
and half a pint will clean pair OF
gloves or more, this to be divided into
two parts, one for washing and the
other for rinsing. Great care must be
used when handling these inf1ammable
materials. Although hanging in the
open air does not do away with the I'M
odor it MIST never be neg
lected, as evaporation takes place and
renders goods harmle-~ which other
wise would ignite readily or in some
cases might be actually explosive.