The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1898-08-21

on that roof and crown of things femi-
nine. namely, the dressing of hair-never
have the wielders OF hot tongs, the deal
ers in dyes and the designers of grace
full coiffures had buster present or
more cheering future than this season.
This is because the first requirement for
a fashionable appearance is for richly
abundant head of hair. highly colored
and curly as a grapevine.
There are those who prophesy, in view
of the increasing height and width of the
nodish couture, that we are getting back
10 the eighteenth century zone Of extrav
agance. when women wore as much hair
and sundry other etceteras on their heads
as would comfortably stuff a mattress
for double bed.
However that may be, it is certain that
we now have six different types of tongs
and curling pins in active use. One of
these by twisting the hair tightly around
a hot cylinder, produces what is techni-
cally known as a Vandyke ringlet-'tis a
species of curl that looks quite like
grape tendril, and hanging in delicate
clusters over the forehead, may well be
nominated as novelty in bangs, though
the fringe that very young ladies affect
is a style first copied in London from the
always tastefully arranged tresses OF
Emma Eames. They are called palm
curls and are merely the soft new hair
that. like the down under a swans white
feathers. is always springing bright and
new on the well-thatched heads of young
people. To roll the long hair back, hav-
ing a fun curling down softly framing
the arch of the forehead, is one of the
prettiest maneuvers a debutante can re-
sort TO.
Matrons are wearing, whether they
are natures gifts or not rather i'm
pressive looking nets of curls, that
flower out luxuriantly in a pronounced
point on the brow, and no fixed rule
can be given as to where the loops and
puffs Of hair must be placed. An EN-
press knot a soft twist, is often
pinned well below the crown point.
and is run through with an ornamental
pin of dark, pale green shell, picked
out in brilliants. In a majority of in
stances women of all ages prefer 10
dress their hair very highly, and pile or
naments on top of the puffy, curly
tower.
The high knot, for instance, is a
lofty, eight-shaped twist, so deftly
planted exactly on the back of the head
and braced by a comb behind, that ii
rears the fun extent of its snaky coils
high in the air. Not a whit less i'm
posing is the curl cluster, which is by
all odds the foremost achievement OF
the modern hair-dresser. To attain the
curl cluster, all the long hair must
have its fun extent turned up in the
air on top of the head. Here it is por-
toned out into ten or a dozen switches,
and every switch is submitted to a
new curling iron that is a hollow cylin-
der. preparation is applied TO the
surface of the tube, and on this the
switch is compactly wound. When the
hair is adjusted. hot iron is run into
the cylinder which slowly grows very
warm, and this heat, acting on the APP
piled preparation, slowly transforms
the straightest hair into a series OF
shiny curls, that stand erect with all
the graceful backbone of a tuft OF os-
trich feathers. The effect of a dozen
Of such curls. grouped in a tressy
shower on top Of softly onduled head
and clasped at their base, in the rear
by a half-circle of brilliants Is a sight
70 stir up feminine envy and emulation.
But If the curl cluster numbers its fol-
lowers by the thousand the butterfly bow
knot numbers its retainers by the tens
Of thousands. Two soft loops of hair
jutting TO right and left and made fast
to a small central twist is the whole
story of this gracious bow, that is, how
ever, only becoming to the owner of &
slender face. One and all, these methods
Of disposing the hair are completed witt
clusters Of wholly artificial hairpin curls
that are not, though, always affixed Il
pins There is a novel comb on the mar
ket with curls literally sprouting from
every tooth, which means, by the way, /:
a far sUrer one of holding the romantic
ringlets in place.
All these species OF couture noted are
or especial benefit TO the woman who
yearns TO appear as divinely tall as di.
Vinely fair, and to help out the effect she
tops her capillary structure with charm
ing and wonderful ornaments, artfully
composed by the skilled fingers of the
astutest miIliners. One of the most popu.
lar and delectable materials for these
fashionable weather vanes is diamant,
tulle- SILK net, crisp with dressing and
powdered with a sparkling dust, is tn,
best description that can be given of thi:
truly fiery stuff. Matrons who sit OF
sofas at balls and do not try to concea
the frost on their locks. dress their hal
in high knots and place before the knot.
poufs OF such tulle, tinged a tendei
mauve. Out of this white osprey will
spring with a few mauve velvet hearts
ease, invisibly wired. A married wo
man. who is still a dancing belle, place.
a little 10 one side of her curl cluster :
white lace butterfly, gorgeous insect o
Venetian point with the eyes in his wing
Of emeralds. Fan-like from this rises ;
white or black osprey, twinking Will
crystal or diamond dew drops Blond
women have fallen much into the way o
wearing large jetted Valkyrie kings, that
after all, are the prettiest head ornament
seen so far. There is also class O
pretty women who use huge black saith
Louis Quinz bows. wired and wrinkle,
and planted, by some occult art, TO towe
directly in front, above their foreheads
The base of the bow rests in a peak O
curls and on a fair young person the ex
preston is surprising and fascinating.
Even more interesting than this de
parture from the orthodox IS a line O
head dressing followed at a certain wa
teT9ng pace, where the young women e,
.n for golf and yachting, and wear heav,
coats of sunburn rather proudly thar
otherwise. AT this particular sunme
resort the feminine population use few
Jewels, dress Their hair, on hop nights. il
low Empress knots and thrust one splen
did brown mottled eagle feather into tn
hair on the crown. The one outstanding
plume is supposed TO be a tribute to tn
memory of Uncas and his people, and a
an eagle. feather, of the proper size an,
adequate beauty. is hard to find, the wo
men do not hesitate to nay erood rriee