Evening star., 1898-03-12
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Stylish Innings and Trimmings for Spring
and Summer Gowns.
Taneta is the Renl Thing, but SILK
Serge and Percaline Are
Almost as Good.
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.


NEW YORK, March 10, 1895
Whether We choose for our spring and
summer gowns the novelties described last
week, or whether We get standard light
weight cloth or dainty silk, trimmings and
Innings must be carefully considered.
If one can afford it silk is always chosen
for lining, preferably taffeta. There is a
new taffeta which has a softer finish than
the old. 1t is warranted not to rustic quite
so loud and loud skirts are quite out of
date. This taffeta is also said to wear
better than the old. 1t should be borne in
mind in decrying the wearing qualities of
silk lining that in the light weights of
cloth or silk used for summer the lining
will wear twice as long as when 1t is part
of heavy stiff cloth gown and has to
withstand the winds, rains, dust and mud
of winter.
But we cannot all afford tafreta Fortu-
nately many of us have old skirts, both
light and dark, for few women are so i'm
proVident as to give or throw away old
silk gowns. These old skirts are just the
thing for the separate Innings now made
which are attached to the outside petticoat
only al the belt. Whether your old silk
skirts be black, blue. striped plaid mat
ters little. Gray Innings or somber Innings are
worn according TO the taste and fancy of
the individual woman, and 1t is not I'M
common to see a black skirt when daintily
hftcd disclose coored lining, vice
versa.
Made Into Flounces.
Silk skirts which are cut in places so
that they could not be used for a whole
skirt lining are often made into founces
which are long enough to fall from the
knee to the bottom of the hem, and the
upper part of the lining is made of perca-
line or some other serviceable material.
Most of the cotton Innings come in colors
now, so that it is an easy task to match
any silk which one may have All OF
PaquinS gowns are not only lined with
silk, but there is four-inch knife plated
founce of silk about the bottam of the
lining. Often there is a dust ruffie inside
of this. 1t gives "a very picturesque set
ting for pretty ankle, all this plated
ruffied silk, but the length which these
French gowns are made means that one
has two or three ruffies full of dust instead
of one. So a carriage and maid are re-
quisites of an imported gown this year.
Many black gowns (and this spring they
are legion) are lined with pale blue or
green, and the effect of the knife plaitings
is extremely fetching.
Failing the wherewithal to purchase silk
fEngs without feeling wiclledly eXtrava-
giant, and lacking the necessary s;arret fun
of old silken gowns from which to manu-
facture them, the silk and cotton Innings
on which one may compromise are legion.
For seldom does new fad or fancy come
III without manufacturers making some
thing with which it may be carried out OF
initiated.
Not So Expensive.
Silk serge in either brocaded or change
able effects is beautiful and durable, and
jrst half the price of silk 1t comes in
the most gorgeous shades and colors, and
has high luster which makes it look very
much like satin. Silk percaline, which is q
mixture of cotton and silk, is especially de-
s.rable for summer, as 1t is very light. 1t
also comes in plain watered effects. and
is said to be the most popular lining there
is barring the real taffeta. Silk warp mo
hair Is also very handsome and hight, and
practically cannot be worn out. Once in
the family it is there to line at least three
gowns, one after the other
Even percalne itself when it has no pre-
tensions to being half silk has grown light
and ethereal ana comes in most charming
Watered effects 1t is very silky looking
cotton nowadays, and its erstwhile stiff
ness and want of pliability have all dis
appeared. Nor can ones modiste now beg
enc not to buy 1t because pins will not go
through il nor stay in it.
All Of these separate lining skirts are
made with something to hold them out
about the bottom, either dust ruffie a
Spanish ffounce, and preferably very
full knife-plaited ruffle after the French
model mentioned above For the outer skirt
it is simply hemmed up and contains moth
ing to hold it out The inner skirt has the
fiounce fiounces, the stiffening to the
depth of three inches Gf any at all is used,
the binding, etc. If the outer skirt is made
four yards around the inner skirt is little
narrower, only few inches.
Important Details.
All these prosaic details are of the great
est importance, the separate lining has |
quite as much to do with the beauty and |
sn artness of a gown the lining which is |
made part of it. Indeed the separate lin |
ing should be more carefully considered, as |
being separate from the outside skirt it |
shows whenever the position of the wearer |
is changed or the hem of the skirt is lifted. |
Although the skirts must flare about the |
ankles, yet they must be soft and clinging |
in effect, SO no reeds are used in the lining |
But IL one wishes to get exactly the right |
effect, union of clinging effect and we'll I
displayed gown, that is. gown held in /
the best position, 1t is necessary to either
make or purchase a petticoat with feather |
bone in it, Akin to hoops"' one Mortified |
dame remarks; no. for effects so very
slim. Featf erbone is very light, very grace |
fCl and constantly in motion. 1t only holds |
the gown in place. In silk the petticoats |
boned with featherbone are rather eXpen- |
sive, but 1t is possible to have them made |
at home by observing a good model and /
having 1T accurately copied.
LiniEgs for net gowns are much improved |
by having tulle skirt, the color of the |
outside net, over the lining. All the Paris |
gowns are made in this way, and II gives /
a softness to the net which the silk alone |
could not give. Tulle skirts have always |
had second and even third tulle skirt to
give the requisite lightness of appearance. /
Even some grenadines have tulle lining |
between them-outside grenadine and the
lining proper. But this can only be done
when the pattern Of the grenadine allows
it. One of the large plaids with a silk
weave of green, blue or some other color in /
1t, over q lining Of the same shade as the
silk in the grenadine would lose its effect |
II tulle intervened between Ii and the taf-
feta silk it masks but does not cover
MAREIx ROYD- i