davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1898-11-12

ladies' cloth. The wearer was tall and
shapely, and not a wrinkle show cd aboat
the hips. Thace was Il double row of tiny
buttons along the edge of the two plaits
Wflch met in the back, buttons covered
with some sort of worsted reminding one
OF the crocaeted buttons of a bygone age
Just ut the knees the skist fared very
suddenly and it lay about its wearer in
iolds. touching the crimson carpet and con-
tentedly absorbing microbes of all sorts
The bodice worn with this skirt was Of
green velvet, quite plain and tight-fittiag
as a few bodices are this season The only
relief was a stock of white satin and a full
soft bow or half jabot of cream lace. The
nat was green velvet toque with brown
pheasants, breasts on one side. and a cape
OF silver fox was worn a wrap.
Fortunately, We are not confined to the
sheath skirt in Its plain form. 1t is quite
as popular with the fiounce which has been
worn during the summer, and it IS also
beautiful with fan-like plaitines set into
the gown, beginning about the knees and
faring to the hem Of the gown. These
plaitings are of q contrasting or harmonic
Ing color. A tan gown "a pongee silk was
seen not long ago with fan plaitings of
green satin. The bodice was trimmed with
green satin and green liberty silk.
A Love of q Gown.
A Partisan creation which has just seen
the light of orr day is an opal silk. with
deep fan of the same color set In from the
knees in the front of the skirt. This fan
was graceful, as we'll as new. for 1t took
away from the wabbling motion which
takes the place Of walking when one has
a skirt which touches an inch in front.
In spite of the width of the new skirts
Ground the bottom. they do not take any
more material than the old: 50 il IS pos
sible, If one is skillful, to take very full
skirt which was put aside some years ago
and remodel it this year One must how
ever, be very careful to get good pattern,
and some trimming should be adopted
which will conceal any added seams which
come on account of the peculiar modern
cut. But with the braids and straps of to-
day this is not difficult
MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1898-11-12
Theater Waists.
From Harper's Bazaar.


Now that it is the rule for women TO take
off their hats in the theater. there Is
great deal of change noticed In the gowns
worn. Women like to have some nght
dainty waist that will look better for the
evening than heavier cloth or silk 1t 10
probably this fact that induced the impOrt-
ers to bring over many very elaborate
waists. A light pink waist has a deep COLI
lar made of shirred white mousseline de
sole, with a vest piece also of the mousssa
line de sole. The sleeves are small, witb
a puff at the top, very long ovef
white mousseline de sole over which
ty waist is of yellow silk-a very pale
black velvet put on down either side of the
loose, and open over a vest of black satin.
on which is an applique of heavy white
lace The sleeves are small, with a puff at
the top, and big black satin cuffs A black
satin collar and belt finish the waist, and
the contrast of the black against the yellow
is extremely effective. In the new shade
of blue a very attractive theater waist is
made of mirror velvet, trimmed with three
strips Of Irish point This waist fastens
at the left shoulder and the left side seam,
and folds of velvet are drawn across from
the right side to the left, and fastened at
the left shoulder with a large black velvet
bow and rhinestone buckle. The sleeves of
the velvet are trimmed with Irish point
lace from the shoulder to the wrist. The
collar and belt are of black velvet.
Evening star., 1898-11-12
THE WELL-DRESSED WOMAN.
Defined as the One Who Looks Well
Between Seasons.

Denned as the One Who Looks Well
Between Seasons.
From the New York Herald
Some one has defined the well-dressed
woman as the woman who dresses well be-
tween seasons, and, gazing at the strange
ana hybrid assortment of apparel one is
called upon to witness during the weeks
when summer verges into fall and fall into
winter, one does not cayil at the definition
given above.
Take q walk alorgsthe shopping districts
when sudden warm day Slips in unexpect-
edly between the cold snaps what a con-
slomeraton of clothes and how badly do
the New YORK women live up to that stand
ara OF merit accorded them by other cities
and other countries o1Saifbr hats and shirt
waists with heavy skirts and shoes; or
candle dresses and the fall toque out to-
sether'for the first time after months of
ehnlty' low tan shoes and winter coat;
chamolS gloves, duck skirt and fur boa:
tne new SKIRT with its fotfnced and bias ef
feet and the coat of two Seasons ago with
the Voiuminous sleeses-such are some of
the weird costume effects that have been
ougbfares. " n
1t would seem thatthe experience of the
VARYING seasons would teach the lesson
that tailor-made suit and hat are indis-
pensable to the wardrobe of the would-be
WeH-ureSSed woman, and that when the
summer clothes have been called in and
the autumn apparel is still in the hands of
the dressmaker for some of those many
the only proper gown is the tailor-ma.le,
notWithstanoing the famous dictum of
Worth that "the tailor-made dress is for
ugly women"
Evening star., 1898-11-12
LAMPS.
iimeiy Hints on How to Care for
These Useful Articles,

FROM the London Mall.
how the days are closing in. Now is the
time that it is imperative to overhaul orr
aftlficiai means of getting light, In LON
don the electric light but slowly gains vo
tarles; gas Is, on the other hand. not much
lked In drawing rooms, and so we have to
iall back ON our old, old friends, the lamp
and candle.
Inc loloWlng suggestions may be a trtf1e
o-iely' out tney are certainly practical
io oeslh with: Lamp chimneys should not
pe washed out should be cleaned with
cloth dipped in alcohol. If you want to
Keep lamp wicks from smoking soak them
IN strong vinegar and dry them thorUuphIy
before using. An excellent method of
cleaning lamp burners is to take an ounce
oi Washns soda and dissolve it in a quart
Oh ram water In this boil the lamp burners
Tor ten minutes, after which take a cotton
cloth and wipe them: they will be as good
as new. This, some lamp fanciers say,
should pc cone once every month The
hfass htt1ngs OF lamp can be prevented
from furnishing by rubbing them with salt
nois.ened with a little vinegar Lamp
chimneys may be rendered dura BILE by plac-
ing them in a saucepan of cold water anO
gradually bringing it to a boiling heat.
care must be taken that the chimneys do
not toucn each other during the bubbling
Up of the LIQUID
Another method Is to put them into a
very hot oven and then let them cool grad
ualiy. To eeonomiZe lamp wicks may be
worth while II one uses many lamps 1t is
simple enough to do this by darning the
END OF the old wick to the new one Wicks
should always be as long possible, and
the lamps kept full as possible, without
running over.
When next you trim your lamp place a
lump OF camphor in the oil receptacle. This
Will prevent unpleasant smells and improve
the Illuminating power. For reading have
a green or rose-pink shade, if possible: GER
tainly not a red or orange one. Crinkled
paper. with delicate blossoms printed on it.
is the cheapest shade covering there Is, and
quite the prettiest in its way. Il can so
easily be changed often, thus avoiding that
slur 'on housewife. dirty lamp shade.
Evening star., 1898-11-12

insistent question: What are those tiny
little fans some of the women have? /
never saw any funny"
Recamier fans" the woman's voice an
sWered. No one carries large fans now
adays."
Suited at Last.
Why" said the young voice, It " don't
look much over two inches long. I've seen
waist / like it continued; see over
there. Dull blue silk frilled with white
chiffon, edged with such pretty ribbon.
What Is the ribbon? Black velvet striped
with white. it looks like And there's a
vest OF tucked white chiffon and lace.
wonder # The folks at home would let me
have one?"
Until the end of the evening I thoupht
more OF the girl than of the PROCEEDINGS en-
the stage. When it was possible to rise 7
looked behind me with something of her
own eagerness. But l saw no one to whom
tne voice could eonceivably belong. Tie
solce Vote remains to me nothing but voice,
querying OF all sorts of pretty, girlish, focl-
ish things. -O0'
Evening star., 1898-11-12
SMART SKATING COsIt hE.s.
A Plain skirt. With Vivid Bodice, rs
Graceful and Becoming.

From the St Louis Globe Democrat
All these gay colors of cloth make a fiorid
and not Ineffective show on the ponds and
I'm the rfnks where the whirr OF steel on
ice rises on the frosty air. plain skirt
ankle long with a vivid flannel or velveteen
bodice. is just about the most graceful and
becoming thing skater can assume.
CameTs hair serge is what the skirt is
made of and the most startling combina
tious in color prevail until the Kinks resem-
ll. carnival gatherings. The biggest and
brightest buttons flash on upper as well as
1..-her garments. and some of these are
huge polished pewter buttons. such as are
made and worn by Dutch men and women
Cu the frozen canals of Holland.
Pretty skating costumes from Paris are
reSplrndent with fur or fancy braid and gay
with silver buttons that are in reality tiny
bells ingling out fairy music al every mo-
tiru Of the wearer. The skirts of such suits
are ,ut close at the hip and somewhat full
below the knees, enabling the wearer 10
move with freedom, and adding greatly 10
the sum Of grace. Turbans of astrakan.
broad tail and Persian lamb are what the
smart skaters wear. These are round cap
shaped things. with a tuft of bright feath-
CrS like a shaving brush sticking up in front
and held by pin Of Russian silver.
Every other woman, whether her trock is
silk or serge, has depending from the rear
Of her basque a species of tail which is
bound TO excite interest, If not applause. 1t
was fully ten years ago that baSQues re-
signed their rear appendages, but, like
Mary's little lambs. they are back in fash
ion. every one with its tail behind it. Some
times the tail is a mere bunch of ribbon
ends. scarcely larger than the sort OF thing
rabbit wears, again they are beetle-wing-
shaped and fall nearly to the knee. Coatee
habit. pOstilion and swallow tails are the
species most frequently seen at present and
whether they are pretty or not Is another
matter; the tailors say they have come TO
STAY
Evening star., 1898-11-12
OUT OF STYLE NOW.
London Authority Hopes to See
Earrings Come in Again.

EarT1DSb Tome In Again.
From the London Nah.
Earrings form more interesting study
than the average man or woman suspects
They have been worn from time immemor-
ial. Probably this is the first occasion in
the history of the world that they have
been generally out of fashion.
But earrings are still wcrn in regions thai
are happily beyond the sphere of fashions
Jurisdiction. Indeed, many OF these ladies
go one better that their civilized sisters
they wear nose rings as well
For decorative purposes, however. the ear
has always held first place in the estimation
of ladies, who have never been content to
leave the lily unpainted.
The wearing of the earring is really
legacy of barbaric days. Even at the pres
ent time in several semi-civiized tribes
the custom prevails of subjectine an infant
when only few days old to a species OF tor
ture, in order that in time the child may
wear certain peculiarly shaped earring.
The lobes of the baby's ears are slit and
small weight attached. This causes the
lobe to droop. and round the formation is
fastened a long hollow rim of whatever
metal the parents can afford to buy Hap
PLY this cruel system is confined to races
that as yet have but seen the dawn of civ
iliZa ton.
One of the greatest authorities In London
on earrings is Mr.. H. Stapleton For wears
he has made this a study and IA business
Moreover. he has applied an inventive fac
ulty to designing new ways for ornament
ing the ear, one object being to avoid the
pain of piercing the lobe, but his great aim
is TO make the embellished ear a thing of
beauty.
Mr.. Stapleton believes that he has now
ACCOMPLISHED that end He has patented an
ornament which covers the whole of the bot.
tom part of the and curves some distance
around the ffange, so to speak. Then,
again, the ornament has no pin; consequent
ly the ear needs no piercing.
This new departure in jewelry is provided
with a gem-studded screw which causes a
screwed up il is nigh impossible for the or
nament to fall off.
But" mournfully observed Mr.. Staple
ton to a Daily Mail representative, II have
no guarantee that the ladies will properly
fasten the ornament; therefore it has not
met with the favor that l had hoped.
THE want of rigidity in the lobe of the
ear, which. in vulgar parlance, is only a
piece of gristle, has for years rendered the
invention of a n-piercing earring matter
of great difficulty.
Il have at last succeeded in overcoming
all obstacles. for my new earring cannot
possibly fall or be forcibly removed if
know, for l have experimental with my
Wife's ear.
Eyes several of the great jewelry shops
in the west end-some of which include
members of the royal family among their
customers, have taken the earrings, few
of which have been disposed of.
THE wearing of ornaments in the ears
is at present out of fashion. Meanwhile |
lying low and saying nuffin'-at any
rate, not more than | can help; but when
the time comes and the inevitable revival
sets in. then l shall be heard FROM
Evening star., 1898-11-12
and delicate violet silk was fastened with

and delicate violet silk was fastened with
crystal buttons.
1 fell to wondering about the girl; was
she dark was she light? Would she care
for one Of the pretty white silk evening
waists made with an infinity of tucks and
finished with blue cherry velvet neck
bGn nd? Or how about an all-white dress
such as one o. the young girls of the -four
hundred" has had prepared for the dancing
class of which she is member and her
mother one OF the patrOnesSes? dress of
cream white wool, sheer and fine. | was
thinking of: trimmed about the skirt with
a scroll design in narrow white satin frjfis
closely gathered. The folded fronts Of the
waist opaned over vest of cream silk net,
blousing a little and ornamented with lace
sprays combined with the ribbon designs
and set on in applique. There was a rib
bon-trimmed boiero, very small, as Is the
winters fashion, and a silk net sash, also
decorated with ribbon frills. Not touch of
cCior appeared about this very dainty and
youthful frock. even the flowers arranged
on the shoulder being white .hrysanthe-
NUNS.
1 was sure the girl was young, else why
Evening star., 1898-11-12
THE MOTHER-IN-LAW.
Husbands Are Jealous of Her, and
That Makes the Trouble.

From the Philadelphia Times.
Those of US who are in the way of read
ing the comic papsn have regarded the
alleged aversion of men to mothers-in-law
as merely a kind of stock-in-trade joke
that was conveniency to cheap wits. 1t
seems. however, that the feeling is recog-
nized such in law, as in a recent case
where a man sued his mother-in-law to re-
cover some property the jury were closely
questioned to whether they entertained
a prejudice. either generally or specifically,
against mothers-in-law that would prevent
their rendering a just verdict. At last
twelve good men and true, presumably
bachelors, were found who testified to hay
ing no feeling on the mother-in-law ques-
ton, and the case proceeded.
Probably very few men would admit to
being influenced by the stale and silly gibes
at mothers-in-law, but that they have
great weight is proven by the attitude that
almost every man that takes toward his
Wlfes mother. He has been warned by
the comic papers that she will attempt to
manage him and run his house: that she
VIII incite his wife to acts of Independence
and put her up" to defying his opinion
So he is on his guard. He looks upon her
with suspicion, and is apt to think that the
most harmless suggestion Is unwarranted
interfering.
To a certain degree this feeling may be
traced to not unnatural jealousy. The
young husband is always very self-impor-
tant. He expects to be all in all to his
wife. He is determined to be the arbiter of
her destiny, the oracle who knows it all. the
supreme court that lay down the law In
nocent and unsophisticated little brides do
not, as rule, see thissSt first. They blum
der out with Mother thinks you ought to
do so and So. or Mother says something
else and out of the blow they deal their
husbands vanity springs much of the dis
likes to mothers-in-law.
Then men seldom understand a woman's
affection for her own people. They do not
realize how deep the flower of love strikes
Its roots into the home where one was born
and that no matter how tender the hand
that transplants Ii some of the heart fibers
must still cling to the old soil. If woman
could sunder the old ties without regret If
she could forget the faithful love that has
cherished her and guarded her and sacri-
nced itself for her at every STEP what a
poor. disloyal creature she would bel How
worthless any affection that one so shallow
hearted could give! Let the man who com
plains of his wife wanting to see her
mother think of that
Evening star., 1898-11-12
THE EYEBROWS.
They Are More Generally Neglected
Than Cared For.

From the st. Louis Globe-D Democrat
Poets and artists may continue 10 extol
the expressive beauty of the delcately pen
ciled eyebrow, but the average woman
pays little heed to it. and beyond an occa-
sIonal smoothing with her finger leaves un-
cared for one of the incest and most par
ucular portions of her facial toilet. Like
all other points of beauty, this little pen
stroke of nature varies greatly with the
| individual, but as a usual thing one Is en-
dowed with just about the right brow to
harmonize with the features and a uttl.
tudicious care Is all that is necessary to en-
nance this touch, which goes so far to make
or to mar the entire facial expression
When, however, the formation of the eve
brow is decidedly al fault we have recourse
to artifce to help out the deficiency or oh
literate It's LONELINESS. The eyebrow should
extend slightly beyond the ori1ce of tho
eye at either end. should terminate in a
mere line toward the temple and be slightly
broader toward the nose. Upon the breadth
the arch and the shade depend much Deli
cate features should not be preponderated
by broad brows while those which are largo
and strong In character need the bolder
brush TO accentuate their force. The brow
Is always to be carefully smooth glossy
and orderly. At a recent visit to a derrna-
tologtst society woman was greatly anus
ed when the so-called artist, after carefully
treating her skin for real and imaginary
| blemishes, apparently scrutinizng every
part with microscope, completed his work
in hasty brush over the much-disturbed
eyebrows with a camers hair brush and
stepped back to announce his work of
beautifying was complete. Now" she said
with smile. "rn show you something
Look at me well and then notice the differ
ence." Selecting a stiff little brush from
among his numerous paraphernalia, she
brushed the hair of both eyebrows straight
up towarl the forehead, then carefully
brushed them down from above. This left
| an extremely delicate shading. every hair
clearly defined and distinctly separate and
clear, dark line along the center. She
shaped the inner line toward the nose with
a cautious touch of the brush. then turned
to the manipulator for his opinion, and he
was magnanimous enough to admit that
when the brow was in healthy condition
he had never taken much pains about its
dressing.
Never pull the hair out, even If 1t grows
too close over the brows; careful brushing
will in time shape 1t nicely. and to certain
features close brows are decided necessity.
IL you will take the time some day to comb
your brows in various shadings you VIII
soon discover which style-whether high or
low arch, rather fiat or fine and delicate
styles most becoming and, once learned,
adhere strictly to it. The hair will of its own
accord finally shape itself in that direction.
Evening star., 1898-11-12
Uses for Odd CIasps.
the London Mail.

From the London Mail.
You can give modish air TO a bodice by
the simple device of opening it at the left
side and apparently securing It over the full
vest that shows beneath by three clasps.
Any woman with an eye for dress can see
how to space them without directions. Tho
clasps CT ornaments are of jet, of cut steel,
of ivory or oxidized silver.
II you know how and where to go you
may be able to pick up pretty ornaments
OF amber or clover-colored crystal Some
times the ornament has fringe of small
beads to match. You must remember 10
place them only at one side. and that Is
the left These three bodice ornaments
have a magical effect In smartening a part
ly worn gown. and provide the means of
wearing odd clasps. provided there is NOT
too much difference in their character
Evening star., 1898-11-12
New stock Collars

From Harper's Bazar.
We saw charming new stock collar
made to be worn over the band of the
dress 1t was OF silk, and came up In two
little points on either side. just back of
the ears. The ends crossed in the back and
passed through holes. like an ordinary
stock. but the sailor tie had undulated ends
with insertions of mousseline de sole In
stead OF the regulation loop or knot or
Whatever the sailors call 1t, In front, the
two ends go through what looks like a but
terhy bow, loop and two undulated ends
with mousseline de sole insertion which
make one think of butterflies winss
Evening star., 1898-11-12

should dancing class dresses present them
selves to me SO insistently? I remembered
one of white net over white silk trimmed
with latticework pattern in dark red vel
vet, and another in pink silk with 4 deep
plated founce of pink mousse
line de sole. Plated mousseline trimmed
the bodice, and there was an odd little belt
of gold galoon studded with coral.
Blue, Pink and Black.
l discussed with myself blue and pink
lisse over satin Of the same shade, but was
Inclined to reject them unless striped down
the skirt with lines of black lace applique
Blue sequins in blue lisse, though, mig 1t
be effective. with pink roses for the bodice
finish. If I were not so sure the voice was
very young voice, the prettiest thing
had seen in days was black lace polona,se
worn over white satin and cut away at the
neck to show an under bodice of white
chiffon. This dress had white chiffon elbow
sleeves trimmed with black lisse ruchas.
A pale blue muslin dress-always for the
dancing class-was satin-striped and COW
cred with an oid-fashioned flower design
The full, narrow ruffles that edged it were
headed by quillings of pink and satin rib
bon, which matched the roses in The pat
tern. White chiffon and pink ribbons made
the bodice, and long pink sash ends We're
left flying.
AS soon as the curtain dropped listened
to the voice. In a moment it rose in eager,
Evening star., 1898-11-12
Red Candlesticks.
From the Philadelphia Press.

a particularly acceptable present after a
visit to a country house or to bridal pair
who will possess an out-of-to town residence
is set of bed candlesticks. These in sill
yer, pewter or old brass are sure to be found
on the landing of the staircase duly set
out on a table. copying the English fash
ion. Gas, oil lamps and electric lights can
not Danish the bed candle, whose lighting
by merry house party in an old English
castle hall has been made the subject of
Q fine picture.