The times., 1898-12-18

gowns of It at home and In the morn
ings, and instead of bands of black vel
vet, they show the crisp dusky surface
of skirt and body powdered over with
large and small, loose-hanging black silk
dots. Let 1t be mentioned in stage
whisper that any woman who is ambi-
tious to follow the latest fashion can buy
q box of these dots or balls very cheap,
and herself in one morning tack q score
of hundreds on TO her black taffeta cos
tune.
There is every indication that before
the next new skirt pattern comes out
there will be no more honored article of
wearing apparel quoted than the hitherto
humble and inconspicuous shawl. For
good dozen of lustrums the shawl has
hidden its diminished size and fringe in
the wardrobes of elderly LADIES' Without
the least warning the shawl has become
exceedingly modish.
Exquisite creped liberty silk squares
with fringed edges and colored borders in
Persian pattern are an essential part just
now of the evening toilet. The crepe
squares are sometimes deliciously en-
broidered, or even painted, and assume in
good part the duty long fulfilled by the
boa. At home In the afternoon women
wear exquisite imported Japanese shawls
of mingled wool and silk in pigeon throat
purple, or white and pine leaf green pin
ned like capes on either shoulder, so that
the front points can be thrown back or
drawn forward at will. while in the rear
the shawl hangs like large, loose hood.
A new fringed silk shawl very much
worn In the shape of Scotchman's plaid
or a torreador's scarf. IS caught on one
shoulder and allowed to swing clear or
is drawn up close about the figure. Less
costly than these are scarf shawls OF wool
gauze, with bands of bullion or coioreu
silk alternating with the wool
Comment and experiment are equally
busy with the cardigan jackets and smart
quilted silk waistcoats that skaters wear
or that women adopt indoors over thin
shirt waists The cardiganS are exactly
as men wear them, save that little SILK
is mixed with the wool of which they are
quilted. In the majority of cases the
cardigans are done in dull smoke-gray,
reseda green, brown and mid-ocean blue,
but bound about the edges with silk ribbon
of a clear and penetrating color. Women
who cling to capes as wraps have found
the cardigans of very real value and
comfort, and they utilize as well the
wadded waistcoats. These are cut as
high or as low as you please in front, are
most often of a dull, soft silk outside, and
"a light layer of perfumed lambs wool iy-
ing between the outside and the lining is
stitched in diamond form and the brightest
silk.
Occasionally, In place of mere machine
stitching. a delicate vine is embroidered
this way and that over the waistcoat
front, while the back is of heavy, double
faced satin drawn in at the waist line un-
der a ribbon band and silver or jewel set
buckle. The gayest buttons fasten up
these waistcoats that skating and sleigh
riding and golfing women affect and with
which they wear their watches exactly
as men do.
Long and most interesting are the runes
that relate to the newest fangles in taffeta
silk skirts. The derniere cri, as the Pa
rsians say, is skirt of storm-gray taft
feta velours. that fits like a tire to wheel
as far down as the knees and then flares
or is thrown out, to use dressmakers yer-
nacular. All around 1t touches the ground
and then to accentuate this bell-bottom
aspect fiounce of crisp muslin is cut out
on the slope, accordion pleated and edged
with a ruche of pinked gray taffeta and
muslin In consequence of these maneu-
yers a woman IN such q skirt is apt to
measure 36 inches about the hips and 136
around her feet, but this is quite as it
should be- for all her carriage and evening.
house and calling toilets come under ap-
proximately the same dimensions.
The two hats given this week tell their
own tale They are both of antique vel
vet. their folds disposed over crinoline
frames. The velvet is drawn up handker-
chief-shape in the toque and the corners
knotted in front Through the knot Is run
three eagle quilts. The larger hat of Chas-
seur shape is smoke-gray velvet, orna-
mented with large paste buckle in front,
from which flow back two long periwinkle
blue plumes.
The children in the sketch represent
what young people are wearing for festive
functions this winter. Their pinafores on
sober, everyday occasions are as often as