The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-07-13
FASHION NOTES.

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or colors, in plain or fancy effects, are
in greater vogue than ever this year.
Large orders have been placed with
manufacturers for lustrous white cord
ed silks and heavy but s~oft-finished
cream and iv%ory-white satins for even
ing toilets next season.
Pink in every tint and tone will be
in great use this autumn and winter for
evening gowns for youthful wearers,
for dressy opera-toques and bonnets,
for trimming, and Innings for round
hats, and for lining velvet and cream
cloth capes for ball and theatre wear.
The navy and army blue serges,
f~oalards, mohairs, and lightweight
costume cloths are made into stylish
tailor-costumes for travelling and gener-
al wear, that hold their own against
all the endless smart and novel gowns
which the present season has produced.
The new MORE silks are watered
across the width in irregular stripes,
and the lattice-work patterns seem to
be one Of the seasons fancies for both
plain and moired silk. Basket checks
are woven in some of the new autumn
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tern scattered over them.
The gray gowns this year are ex-
tremely dainty and handsome, and
they appear in every sort Of material,
from linen, pique, batiste, nuns veil
ing, and cashmere, on through the ar
ray of attractive dress fabrics TO crisp
stand-alone ~taffeta, satin foulard, crepe
de chine, MORE, faille, and summer
brocade.
There are no surprising novelties in
parasols this year. Chiffon is almost
omnipresent, and when this is absent
lace is found. There are far more
fancy models exhibited than those for
utility uses, the only serviceable styles
displayed being those of pongee or of
silk in plain or fancy patterns.
A noted French designer uses very
pretty basket-woven silks in small
checks of r~ose-color, cream, and green,
fawn color, geranium pink, and violet,
ecru, petunia, and wood brown, for
smart little gowns made with a guimpe
matching one of the colors in the check
covered with silk net, with sleeve
puffs to match. The skirts are trim
med with pinked frills or ruches from
hem to hips.
The majority of the summer bodices
for general wear are made with fitted
backs, very slightly pouched fronts,
with revers or bretelles beyond; a plain
band of ribbon for the collar, almost
covered with a pretty jabot arrange
ment of falling lace; and sleeves as a
rule, in small m%utton-leg shape, or else
pulled from wrist to shoulder over a
pain close inner sleeve of thin silk or
net.
Many of the pretty silk, crepe de
Chine, and yelling dresses are finished
with three tiny frills of ribbon, tapping
each other, and gathered moderately
full. These frills, though not novel
ties, are newer than those made of the
dress goods, and they are given a nov
ell effect by the deft manner in which
they are adjusted, and by the beauty of
the various two-toned or doubled-faced
ribbons used. If the frills are made a
bit too wide the effect is spoiled. They
must not measure, all told, more than
three inches; therefore, ribbons a
trife over an inch wide are the proper
selections.
The newest vicuna cloths for travel
ing, yachting, and cycling are wide
diagonals of very fine, soft wool, rough
ly woven, in a single color such as
gray, blue, or fawn, and notably in
navy blue, OF else in two shades of a
color. More novel than these are the
pretty diagonals in contrasting colors,
green with brown or violet, gray with
rose or silver, blue with white or al
mond. Raised silk cords form stripes
in black or dark brown on sheer light
weight woods of delicate summer color
ing.
Less of the Opaque white fabrics are
shown among the seasons patterned
transparents than those in cream, ca.
nary, and Spanish yellow, willow
green, ciel blue, reseda, rose, and vic.
let in exquisite tintings. In making
up these textiles the greater portion
show an airy overdress, loose from iti
gored underskirt, but united at the
top, one belt holding both skirts. Less
d%iaphanous looking toilets for rather
stout women show the outside Skin
sewed in with each gored breadth o.
the underskirt. The very popular frilll
and f1ounces must likewise be eschewe(
and the narrow ruche substituted; fol
none but tall, slender women look wei
in frilled skirts.
The fitting of studios has become 81
common-and studio is another nam,
for any sort of bachelor workshop
that wall papers are specially designed
for these dens. They are of fantastic
and erratic patterns, and would be in
congruous with commonplace surround
ings. They need Eastern draperies
armor, ETC., as proper accompaniment
Those in baronial and heraldic design
are extremely rich and effective, blu
there are much more curious ones will
peacocks, birds of paradise, dragons
and other vagaries of the artists brail
meandering over them. One of Elem
ish design has iagons and beer-mug
in its pattern. They are especially at
tractive for the dens of country houses
Some of the most beautiful goods il
!, the elegant outfits for the summer ar
the French and India muslins, and tn
daintiest sort of evening gowns, as wei
as those for dressy afternoon wear ar