The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1898-09-07
EATING IN GERMANY.
THE sARCA6MS OF A VICTIM WHO
SURVIVED IT'S CHARMS.


Fare and Is Particularly Irritated over
Dish OF Pow dered Horse Radish Served
With Frozen Whipped Cream.
When you have examined the con
stitution Of the German cuisine, you
are tempted to grow loquacious. You
are conscious Of having discovered that
the psychology of a nation cannot be
constructed upon "A mere analysis Of its
made dishes Your estimate of Brillat
Savarin sinks He could not tell you
what you are even from all the menus
OF your lifetime Freiligraths philo
sophie conclusion that imam is what
he eats you straightway qualify as
true only when referring to cannibal-
ism. And you will aver that only in
the case of paleolithic man can you
construct Il man from the crumbs that
fall from his dinner table. And this
you will want to prove, and conse.
quently will grow tallkatiYc with pre-
senting of much evidence.
And yet, i'll your sane moments, you
al
statement that Il German is German
because he eats what he eats. As a gen
eral rule he may be said to eat five
times u day. But his hunger is con-
stantly being stilled.
He starts early i'll tho day with "a cup
of cafe au lat and small buttered
roll. This keeps him going till II
O'Clock, when no demolishos slice of
buttered rye bread spread with slices
of hard boiled egg, raw chopped beef or
cheese This ho washes down with a
glass of ale, thus shilling his inner man
till dinner time. Dinner takes place to-
ward | o'clock and consists of soup
generally nouri shing), plate Of meat,
with potatoes and fruit (cranberries,
prunes or apricots1, occasionally cheese,
seldom sweets, rarelya green vegetable
Three hours later coffee is taken,
served with piece of cake or thick
bread and butter. This is the hour pre-
oious to the gossip and tho busybody,
the time for spreading scandal. Toward
O'Clock the appetite again asserts
itself. The hour of the ubiquitous sau-
sages has arrived. Their name is legion,
and they share the honors with slices
Of ham, smoked goose breast, pieces of
raw picked herring, and Ill summer
hard boiled eggs and potato salad.
Such is the German method Of spread
ing the meals over the day. OF course
there arc exceptions. Many families
have two ample meals day, but tho
bulk Of tho population eats mostly but
! tered bread and snacks. In justice to
! Germany one must say that the fare i'll
many home will compare favorably
with that of many an American family.
In the German restaurant the cuisine
is ON the whole monotonous and the
food singularly insipid. All meats seem
to have the same flavor, all are served
with tho same heavy, yiscous sauces.
and invariably escorted with tho same
soaplilSe potatoes Stodginess and hoavi-
ness are the great blots TN the German
fare The element OF variety, too, seems
considered snperfluous.
In the concrete the subject is almost
too painful to face, the difficulty being
to steer clear of ordinations denoting
positive offensiveness. Some of the
the German table arc reputed To be most
sustaining. They certainly are intense
~ and ostentatiously wonder inspiring.
Ono preparation is everywhere met
with under the name (moro or less pho
netically spelled of boefsteak Il la tar
tare. Its basis is raw chopped beef;
this, spread out into II pat of elliptical
shape, is crowned with the raw yolk of
an egg, raw finely chopped onion is
sprinkled over it, garnituro of CHER
kins is added, and the whole is eaten
with much gusto and no worse conse-
quoncos than durable thirst
In many of the dishes you discover
all tho humor, feeling and imagination
Of Wagnerian composition. You find
the resolute desire to build up harmony
upon discord. OF this nature may be
considered tho traditional menu of New
Years eve, carp, pancake and punch.
These three, brought into immediate
juxtaposition and consumed in plethorie
quantities, generally have the desired
etfect-that of inducing historical
good humor.
For stodginess nothing beats the IA
vorite dish, panaohe 1t consists of
picked pork, sour cabbage and PURGE
of split peas boiled down to the con-
sistency of stiff dough Experiments ON
this mass produce deplorable capers and
cause one to grunt mournfully. \ va
riety of this diet is found in Berlin
You substitute boiled balls of dough
and indifferent prunos for the peas and
cabbage, and you have the dish popu-
larly termed "tho Silesian kingdom of
heaven. Cold cells, imbedded in
translucid, glutinous substance, figure
III all workmen's tayerns, while roast
goose is de rigueur for all solemnities.
n dainty which We have recently
met with in Berlin recalled Darwin's
remark that hardly any experiment is
so absurd as not to be worth trying.
1t consisted of finely powdered horse
radish served up with frozen whipped
cream.
One may sum up ones Judgment by
saying of German cooking what the art
critic said of nature, 1T has infinite
potentialities. Not the least of these
is its ambition so discover victims that
survive its charms only in tho form
that the walls of Jericho survived the
trumpet blast of Joshua. S
Magazine.
Prntacteu Pigeons