The record-union., 1898-05-29

and pretty model in white barege is
made up over white taffeta The gored
skirt has only three tiny frills around
the hem The elaboration of this dress
Is in the round waist, which shows
mixture of the barege and white accor-
dion-pleated chiffon and satin ribbon.
One band is placed straight down the
center of the front, and another down
the back. Two other rows are started
at the belt, on each side of the front
and are carried up, expanding slightly
on the shoulders, and are then returned
to the belt in the back. A cluster of
satin loops is set upon each shoulder
and there are folds of the lustrous rib
bon about the waist. with two oblong
shaped buckles at the back
Great is the rage for lace appliques
in black, white or cream color, used on
elegant gowns, capes, jackets, fancy
waists, and in high-class millinery. Ad-
Unstable vests, yokes, guimpes, plas-
irons, revers and collars are made of
guipure in Honiton, Venetian or Flem-
ish designs. Very fine old-fashioned
thread patterns in cream color are also
laid over velvet bands and cape collars,
and likewise from beautiful borders to
revers and spreading bretelles on ele-
CANT gowns of ceremony
Allusion has already been made to
the great number of shapes in which
new bonnets and hats have appeared,
the hats as usual outrivaling the bon
nets in the many caprices OF contour
and style in which they are shown.
iC Iofi 40 pd
in the varied head-coverings as is
evinced in the construction of costumes.
Both bonnets and hats run through
small, medium and large sizes, the bon
nets developing through numerous
notifications of the French toque, the
princesse and capote shapes, into the
more pretentious Victorian styles which
reappear this season. In round hats,
the models begin with the pretty tur-
bans and English walking hats, and
grade up to the very familiar small
cart-Wheel dimensions, these mon
strosities in straw being made up of
numerous dents and smashed-in angles
and eccentric curves-an eccentricity
which is noticeable both in crown and
brim, with continuation of the win
ter's wild freaks in garniture in keep
ing with the shape Of the hat. The
prevalence of very rough openwork
straws has brought them into the list
of headwear desirable for travelling
uses, yet they are really not commend
able, on account Of their liability to
catch and retain the dust much more
than a plain smooth braid. The most
serviceable and stylish looking travel
ing hats are of English Dunstable
straw or Milan braid, with a simple
torsade of some appropriate fabric
around the crown, with loops of the
same, and a few quill feathers at one
SIDE. In spite of the many fancies
that are put forth among the models
for such uses, the fact still remains
that flowers, laces, or dressy garni-
lures of any description are wholly out
of place upon a travelling hat
An exceedingly pretty dress of cream
white etamine of silky diaphanous
quality is made up over mauve silk,
with a yoke of cream giupure laid over
the silk. The skirt has three ruches
of the etamine set about three-eighths
of yard apart. Mauve satin belt-rib-
bons and shoulder-loops, below which
falls a drapery of guipure lace, form
the pretty trimmings on the bodice.
4
Tailors are making use of whipcords
in neat reversed silk and wool stripes
closely woven to form a smooth sur
face that -repels dust. These are for
travelling and walking costumes. They
come in blue grays, tobacco brown, tan
and hyacinth- blue shades, and are for
ty-eight inches wide. OF the same
width are the popular checks and hair
line stripes in stylish green and white,
iris-blue with white and Havana
brown, with pale ecru. English serges
of we'll defined twiIls come in several
handsome shades of brown and green,
in silver blue, in reds both bright and
dull, and of course in the seryiceable
navy blue, with a pale light army blue
in addition. These are full double
width and cost 30 cents yard.
Although passementeries, galloons
arabesque trimmings, appliques and
gimps can never be called novelties as
far as mere names go, they neverthe-
less deserve the title regarding their
designs and combinations, and they GER
tainly never possessed the Importance
they have gained this year Not only
do the latest impOrtations appear in
admirable imitation of ancient laces
and embroideries, but they are brought
out in constant succession of new and
beautiful devices. One of the novel
patterns consists of a graduated set of
Persian arabeseque designed for the
skirt. bodice and sleeves. There are
also mural devices in shaded effects,
Gothic bands, Venetian and Vandyke
points of every width, palm leaves and
ferns which are wholly new in arrange
ment and effect and which are disposed
in various artistic ways on evening toi-
let's day costumes and elegant small
wraps, sometimes forming one continu-
Gus design on the skirt, sometimes
graduated in width at the sides or set
on in separate pieces en- applique to re-
semble very closely shaded silk en-
broideries wrought directly on the
gown. Ingenuity never rests, and ex-
quisite jeweled and sequined pieces are
made in special designs for the girdle,
rounded jacket fronts, yoke, guimpe,
marrow, or fiaring Medici collar, bre-
telles, sleeve cuff or puff, skirt border,
and falling chatelaine-each design deli
cately shaded and massed TO avoid
heaviness.
The tilt of the hat over the eyes does
not seem to prove as popular as the
tilt at the side. Certainly it is not so
becoming. Some very smart looking
sailor hats shown at a fashionable inn
porting house looked really quiet and
subdued, in spite of their trimmings OF
gay silk and satin plaid, beside the ar
ray of French models decked out with
nn cnlnrS of the rainhnw and half