Evening star., 1898-02-26
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
The Wisdom of Having Spring Gowns Made
Up Early.
FlOunced skirts n Possibility of the
Fature-Lfnings and Fabrics
The Tunic Model.
Special Cerrstponde zee Of The Evening Star.

Special Cerrs.ponde zee Of The Evening Star
NEW YORK, February "a 1898.
A very good modiste, who frets some
what over the fact that at one season of
the year she cannot hire enough hands 10
complete her work, and that at another she
has to turn many of them away, said lately
that she did wish her customers would
bring her their spring gowns to make up
now. But would you know how to make
them?' she was asked, and her reply was,
Certainly; tie spring styles were fixed
long ago; the fabrics are all here. The
only trouble is that every one is holding off
to see how some one else will have her
gown made. Then they will slavishly fol-
low whichever Of the new modes seem TO
have the most vogue, and the result will be
a lot Of women dressed exactly alike and
the d1suse OF, perhaps some Of the most
charming styles fixed upon for wear"
1t is true that every season one particu-
lar style of garment Is copied to such an
extent that no matter how graceful or be-
coming ii may be II has to be dropped dur
ing the next, when, If not worn threadbare
T. might have remained the fashion for two
winters or two summers, as the case may
be. The danger this spring threatens
fiounced skirts. Lest fall ii was the blouse
which was done 10 death.
Many of the new skirts bear a startling
res emblance to pictures of skirts which pre-
ceded CT followed the dreadful hoopskirt.
The trimming is put on in the same way
and there is a fullness about the back of
the skirt, which must be made either by
'tfe-backs' or very billowy petticoats. In
deed ore may actually buy in the shops i
patented skirt which has graduated reeds
in 1t, which make it very full and quite un-
yielding in the back.
The Approved shape.
Four yards and a half is given as the
nf kirty
posses about the bottom this spring. This
IS rather generous estimate, since skirts
are to be quite close-ftting about the hips
end fare decidedly about the ankles Con-
sequentiy, 1t will not take a very wide
skirt to be full inGeed about the bottom
So three yards and half will be nearer
the actual width of the most graceful
walking skirts. The length, alas grows no
less. All fashionable skirts dip, but as vet
women have been sensible enough to de-
cidedly veto a trailing walking skirt. so the
dip will probably be confined TO afternoon
and evening; also house gowns. The tailor
made skirts will only be long enough to
get an eXasperatirg line of mud on the
binding.
The old name umbrella skirt is back
but not exactly the same shaped skirt
wears the cosnomen this year that bore it
few years ago. This skirt is recommend
ed safe model to follow, as ii is not
extreme, and will be worn by those who
wish TO be somewhat like their neighbors.
Circular skirts have not gone out entirely,
but are not recommended for those who
care for novelty.
The skirt with the apron front and ore
wide or three narrower founces, which
form the entire skirt in the back (as the
apron front only goes from the hips to the
knees and ends in a poinO Is the novelty,
for although it has been spoken of few
people have worn it as yet. The trimmed
skirt with the trimming slopIng up toward
the back, and a back which suggested the
hoop skirt above mentioned, has been seen
at intervals during the winter and bids fair
to blossom out this spring into skirt ruff
fled from waist 10 hem and very soft and
graceful. With these ruttied skirts
should wear soft round waists and shirred
sleeves.
An Embroidered Gown.
An embroidered gown. which is being
made this week, is to have a plain skirt, as
ruff1es and founces would spoil the pat
tern of the embroidered robe. But on the
side front seams there is to be an opening
ard fans of contrasting color are 10 be
introduced so that the embroidery will not
run in an unbroken line about the skirt in
the old way.
The lining and the fabric will be separate
in every gown made this spring, though
gathered into the same waist baud. This
gives feeling OF freedom and ease and
gracefully hung skirt. 1t tells especially i'm
the light silks. This innovation has not
only baen predicted for long time but
most thin airy fabrics have been made
without any lining at all and worn over
silk slips So 1t does not come upon Us with
a shock of surprise
A good many gowns which are being
made with the princess skir. have the
fiounce which is not on the outside on the
lining proper. Thus a green tafIeta lining
for a tan-colored gown will be plain TO The
knees only, where IL Will be cut off ana a
wide f1ounce set on. This will help keep
the outside. skirt out about the ankles For
there must be billoWy look about the