The times., 1898-09-18

the tailors are lapsing back into the hab-
it of lining their skirts as of yore, in
stead OF using the separate sham. from
Paris, some of the dressmakers have
brought over a goods of which they ex-
pect great things. 1t is used for skirt
Innings and is called silk paper. One of its
chief virtues is crispness that does not
fail and endurance beyond that of the
most expensive silk. In price ii COM
mands in Paris something less than
cheap silk, but over here it is still nov
city and an experiment. The lining of
dresses are If possible more elegant than
ever and all women in these days, when
something like sumptuary laws ought re-
ally TO be passed, seem to afford silk
doublures. Dressmakers, as a rule, like TO
cover the interiors of skirts with silks in
sharp contrasts TO the wool goods. The
most dazzling stripes are not regarded in
bad taste, but the stripes must run hori-
zontally, not in the perpendicular.
There is no news, since the last edict,
about sleeves except that you can spread
them all over with braiding, let them fall
open, cup shape on the shoulder. In case
Won should have a narrow chest, or on a
plain cloth gown do a very new thing by
not setting in your sleeve on the usual
shoulder line. True enough, only women
with wonderfully perfect physiques can
endure the test, but dressmakers don
pretend to say who is a Venus and who
is not and for any customer mistress OF
the needle will fit the shoulder seam of
waist we'll toward the back and carry it
two inches down on the arm. The under
side seams of the waist are also carried
along the arm distance to properly cor
respond and then, couple OF inches be-
low its usual position, the sleeve is fitted
in This is called the court sleeve since
| ii displays the curve of the shoulder as
| presentation dress at the court OF st
lanes is required to. Two pleats, or a
! tiny epaulette else an elaborate b-aided
! nattern. is placed where the sleeve meets
! this long shoulder seam and thus some
| thing almost new has been evolved from
| the lively Partisan brain.
Dressmakers have at last done away
with the skirt pocket entirely. For a
| couple of seasons now the pockets rate
| has been hanging in the balance and lis
| location was at the placket hole, where
| only one out of every fifty women reached
| it Now that a wee bit OF stifening Is To-
| Gated here the pocket has been ousted at
| last from ornamented skirts. The snug
| fit of our autumn petticoats gives not a
! Granny for its replacing, but the tailors
| are making shopping and rainy DAY, OIL
| cycle and golf skirts with one good
| SQUARE pocket sewed on the outside and
on the front, where the wearer can revel
| In wholesome enjoyment of It's comforts
| Indeed some exceedingly smart braided
skirts are shown with pockets applied
! to the outside, but so cleverly braided
| about and over as to be almost concealed
| while they do their good Work
| Significant hats indeed are the three Sc
| forth with all their most marked charac
| teristics BY their names one may know
| them for they are excellent exponents
| of what the Little Corporal, the Post Boy
| and the Peter the Great should be. The
| Little CORPORAL is of green French felt
! hearing on its broad facade rosette o.
| velvet in a lighter green tone and caugh
| In the center by a fiat button of brilliants
| Ribbon loops of green velvet fall anC
| futter from the points of the hat, while
above the crown fiutter a dark and {
pale green plume.
The Post Boy is a warm robin red felt
| turned off the face, and its front brin
edged with a shirred red velvet ribbol
that falls at one side into plump cock
| ade. mingled with dashes of brown vel
| vet. A cluster of shaded brown and ret
| ostrich feathers gives the hat height anC
dignity.
A brown ridged felt brim, turning bacl
from the face about sapphire blue fel
crown. is the color and material of tn
third hat. A fold of black velvet wind
about the crown and a varied bow o
the same ornaments the front of the brlH
This springs from cut steel buckle
while pair of smooth black wings, pow
dered with steel sequins, gives just tn
| Of foe tons HI la