Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1898-03-10


New York, March 5.--phe compare
lively small size Of sleeves, tioeH not SO
far affect tho popularity of capes aud
though oarly in the season, dealers
show them in great variety. So much,
however, has been done in this direction,
that the production of many novelties
is more or less limited and most OF tho
new capes are much on the same order
as hitherto. An example that is the
perfection of neatness, yet elegant IN
material and finish, ia made OF fine
quality cloth in dark green shade.
Tho lining ia OF tan silk and on either
side, n larger open design in passe-
menterie, shows the same az contrast
A more dreHsy cape has a lining of
black satin that is seen through an
oyernid covering OF half-inGh wide
rows OF black ribbon that alternate with
passementerie in very Open pattern OF
the same width. a finish on tho lower.
edge il given by full embroidered
mousselne and the neck completion
corresponds. This example lie in keep
ing with the prevalent ideR Of an open
material placed aboYn a dressy lining
| and ia also in evidence to show that
gauzy iuishings about the neck and
|
Jackets are very short, tight at the
back, with loose fronts anu compare
| lively quite small sleeves.
| Skirte are in transition state SINH
| lar to that which overlook sleeves last
season. Certain II ia tint efforts in
| the direction OF greater Recommendation,
! have hesn more or less successful and
the ruifing and flouucing that was
chiefly confined to light wash fabrics,
| has now extenGsd to silks aud some
| thin wool goods. Black talfetn silk
akirts rutIled throughout or showing
fanciful arrangements OF t1onnees that
depend from apron fronts either round
or pointed, are quite in order and eone-s
times the black shows TWO very deep
ilounces reaching well towards tho
waist, with narrow onos in front below
the apron. Other black taifcta skirts
displaying flnuuces of the game or
graduated widths that run regulnry
around, arc more graceful, although
more conventional and will be becoming
to tall, slender women.
Tailor made gowns have caught tho
Infection and nine ouf OF ten OF q larger
proportion seen at Lord & Taylur's, are
finished by embroidery, hraiiing. banda
| OF the nieterial, Goriiings or pipings.
Such characterization ia placed 10 many
arbitrary wayH, there being no rule,
but favorite method 10 case OF en-
broidery, is to place 1t about half way
UP, leaving the bottom oil the skirt
plaiu. Cordings sometimes exteud all
over the Gkirt, with corresponding
finish on the waist and sleeves or again
there may he several rows placed near
together with wide alternating spaeae.
An exquiBitely neat dress has strappsa
H. - 80 hn
material around the waist that ends Mt
the back with black buckle on either
side and Roms distance above tue
bottom OF the skirt, two corresponding
hands are caught each by buckle IN
the left side. Many of these new street
gowns ern made with short jacketG tighJ
at the back aud having loose 'fronJs,.
but there is more grace in SUCH as
show a short jacket opening over
pointed waistcoat, with cheinisetto and
tie. An advantage here 10 the oppos-
tunity for changing the waistcoat tnat
can he either ia match the dress or in
contrast Of any desired character. In
view of frequent ornamentation on
skirts it may be added that plain ponds
are in great demand, but mixed cloths
have showing aud after all, there
never was a time when perfectly plain,
tailor mada skirts showed TO more ad-
vantage The desire for skirt ornamenta
ton Ia indeed often carried to an I'm
graceful or tawiry extrone A black
net skirt showing - rows OF narrow
black ribbon slightly full, With passe-
mentsrie above. has heavy appearances
and in notably bad taste, are woods
showing tiounces trimmed Gonspicu;
ously ana made over Innings that arc
inharmonious as to color contrasts. But
the wish Tor surprises. seams to carry
tho day. Materials having lines or
stripes that cross tho breadth, are in
unusual favor aui tuckings woven in
the goods, fall in With the idea Of skirt
trimmings taat arc placed horizontally,
In millinery, the lavish placing of
garniture quito equals that of last
aeason and favorite idea ia to veil II
J rich assumhlage of flowers by net,
either plain spaneled or dotted. Beau
tiful little hats composed wholly nr
almost wholly OF flowers arc again
noticeable aud again too are seen many
wide brimmsd hats on which tho Coral
trimming 10 madsed at the back or
under the hrim while some severe ac
cessory such perhaps as bows of black
velvet ur wings, arc placed in front.
This reversal ut tho natural order of
things is QUE of thuse curious freaks
which have long life and ia keeping.
is the present liking for wings. when
! ribbon or flowers would seem 20 much
the more in harmony with womunly
sOftness and natures gentler aspect
Colored straws are frequently seen and
J among than, green, red, bright yellow
or purple show ronspicuously.
} "Iabitha. Some OF the abandonment
gowns are made with Russian BLOUSE
waists and such style will have at least
another seasons lease of life. In max
ing new goods, however, some other
design would be- more advisable, hut
the dress OF which you write, will easily
pass muster.
"Jnns S. W. Independent waists
are shown in immense numbers and
those made in elk, have preferably,
revsrs turning back from vest that
also differs from the garment. But this
is by no means obligatory. Tncks are
extremely fashionable and faynrite
idea is that OF running them 40 as to
form squares. Black taireta silk skirts
flounoed, will lead as completion to in
dependent waists and black taifeta silk
waists tucked are in great demand.
ROsalip1 knv