New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-01-09

What quantities Of baby ribbon must be used
now. Combined with chenille 1t is the last WORD
in embroidery. and no prottier trimming has yet
been found for the net and tulle frock than TO"
upon row Of It sewed in waves or arranged In more
complex pattern punches OF it minge with lace on
crlish frocks. but in this manner may Turk sug-
restion OF lingerie II and discretion are not
used.
DREsSMAKERS OPINIONS VARY
The dressmakers are curiously at variance this
season and it IS doubtful If there be much uniform
tv OF opinion among them until the spring sea-
son has fully arrived. on the whole. their olHer-
ences lie more in their spoken opinions than IN
the results they achieve. AT one place the o'"a,
rnentation OF the skirt is regarded as the cruclai
t.st Of costume. while at another 100 elaborate
trimming Is pronounced bad form. one dress-
maker Meats the back breadths Of her skirts al
most as thickly Of yore: another premium 80
IN favor of long. clinging lines ana ,h'u WIN
boldly advocate a tournure The posSlDhI'y VI ''o
artificial curve no longer frghens us, for niue py
lttlr the way for It has been paved. instead vi
referring to II in whispers as "a little nothhg a.
ALL" the coutureres now speak boldly Oh VIC
tournurc and there is little necessity 10Y INC com
ing OF the new name "hanchette. when h''Sn' nc
translated as little hip. Personally thlhk me e"
ratio skirts natural reaction after the plain Jupes
~ several wears and that the winter advances
We shall sec palmer skirts an increased se'eiI'S
OF outline and probably decided ht'el"P' a.
tournure In the mean while we have more N"''oH
in dress than We usually expect OF wH''e' Sed
son and there is a delightful uncertainty as u
whether our Pet fall costume will be III 70 wear
IN the snrjng. which problem IS best solved D,
wearing It out now ,,... 80
Touching on the subject OF elaborate shI''
calls an excellent example furnished Dy d H"e 20
Ia Paix dressmaker. The materials used are siee,
velvet and a green and red poplin wool. III ""i0'
tho red shows only in certain lights. The front OF
tho skirt is of velvet: over this are two poIh'ed
aprons Of equal length. the points ending som" SIX
Inches from the bottom or the sk'r'. - hn nom,
T, cd,od about by a band OF velvet and on the
aprons IN addition 10 tho VeiNGl; - an or he nod
81 6cru lace. figures and gold thIe3o oh 'iIt
zee We w ra hlouse-iacket of poplin the sides
W. emf into d sharp point and heavily emDroi-
I Tho opera,ic version Of "Sapho' at the Opera
Combine Mile Calve presents a convincing eAann-
NE Of The becomingness of ,hc prnccSse ETY. UHr
Woef beautiful she looks IN these simple trainns
80 which are la mode. without being modlsh
AID She appears inches taller and slighter man III
. Se,ni-train and perfectly plain back. and the
front is crossed. e-iashl0n 10 r9nc ned ia
OF the neck exposed. The only ulimiin teo rov.s
Bsrds Of brilliant Jets Arranged in thf ee skT
along surplice and down me ron e on yelvet in
Another plain princesse gown i Hl hi,so srort
= rlch emerald shade, made with piou re r1o i
@Ho Wl,i,U I,ifT lace at the wrists but the neck
son +, glieit circle is left untrimmed Tne linen
COS Sr I, is heavily trimmed with tcru insertion
and ovcr The shoulders Is deep ,ape co norro W.
III me
moln.s that fall down on the shir'.
,,cproRATED AND BLACK CLOTHS
u,oL have written before Of the perforated
,.t. which have returned to favor this season.
,,ho,,ch we only see them worn In moderation
I'm. nerforations are evidently not TO be cohineu
70 cloths alone. TO judge by recent "o'e'' Il" ls
material IS heavy panne san IN rr rT" rcd Tho
posSs,,tone cover the entire bodice lncludlng we
sjceves and make yoke on we sTh With ends
aLc q
n.iib half a dozen loops and steel OucKr III ' i1
back The sleeves nave oi,e nreft,r manner than
Two trot another beautiful material IS en-
w, Fr WA Saraculo fur on white caracule we inu
,roidrrv OF black and gold threads or per
INNS lace figures and crystal or col0rtu 500 uj
arc emp SSiorabie now or to form fiat vests on
blouse Jacket bodices 'oucH many HAN collars
faccd Win when there Is no qsrSf velvet with
suit smart winter hat Is OF rd 6"c one bird being
r5 Under Inc turncd-up brdm In such ia SiO,
~ II appoIts ~, 40 wraps are cut loose and hlsh
,o,. and a common fashion is to war lns l , IL
conir D.a % srnt ~ the cape or Jacket. We also
e ,r"ot many scarfs Of bright -colored SOL sHs
worn ms1' te chin Fancy NUTS seem on the In,
Dyw and they are large rather than small M ,a
NUT mao9 ,at fasnon approves of this season
woman's hands are well occupied
BLACK COSTUMES POPULAR
,,.o h,,ck costume seems more popular than ever
ut fancy WOODS Win S''h
n,,. ,referred 10 plain stuffs. An enccu'e ''''"
o' ~ dress OF this sort is an embroidery OF mar
o, ,nlyet ribbon and steeldotted lace steei gives
800, touch TO almost any costume now; anu
l'o effect on the bodice IS Yoke OF bi no ~
- y, ire velvet covered with my IucnIitt ~,
qnoiso DIu cline de sole. Some OF the dressy Dhc'
Dr., are curious mixtures Of the ordinary "o''
a1u ' ,lsitlng costume OF gray satin no 'be
Cm IN cave an embroidery OF steel ana JeSS no 81,
anner Of making Is simple out %ll. d a minnie
ia 1 ~ the skirt hang over eeVIuou ,rntory
S2dcS % is outlined by lines Of tns "a
lnY Xxx finishes the description OF lne Sn sc,rfs
ana nc s ne bodice has the appearance OF W. ~ III
DE- ,iih Inc embroidery crossed ana Ca, yc.e
enb'u Miller seams leaving small pQln'ooa y q,
me one scat fitting perfectly to me ngn'e -
~ riT o1cr 10 the middle OF thc WIS q
6@ao1icTv edging IT, making line YIN NE bereS in
DTolIcy The rest OF the bodice ~ ga -,
on w and fastened Mt the bust on tne s,ae III
bo ~ fcru lace. The sleeves arc Io,s sists ~ a
chou % a, shoulder and the collar cosases IL
VIZ W., ~ ps trimming holding graduateq iu'' " 49,
IT, helt worn is Of steel ana si"s h''
THE GIRLS CLUB
r,o C,,rls' Club on the Rue de che'reuso IN"
,r,s1 ,ts sxth-or is it its sevenhT-year win '''
Usual atmosphere OF full house ana chee'y 'u.
"a