The San Francisco call., 1898-01-09

cate, slender features in order that it shall look it's best.
 Another style of hat is turned up ab- ruptly at the back and tilted over the forehead, the crown being encircled by two feathers, which meet in front, and a third popular style has a very damned and crushed sort of crown, and is turned completely up at one side. The Paris hats of this winter are more over, gay with flowers. especially vio- lets and chrysanthemums, and I saw one a holding mass of exceedingly well simulated mistletoe. l couldn't help wondering what demoiselle would be cOnfection.
 Something very taking and effective in garniture is a combination of cot ton crepe and gold and silk threads. Its highly appropriate name is Quenan- na cloth. Its surface web of gilt and colored threads on the cream back ground shows out in good semi oriental designs and suggests this as capital fabric for theater waists and tea gowns.
 There is no secret in telling that it sells for a trifle over half a dollar a yard, and combines delightfully."- with velvets of all shades of collars and gir- dies. The making of the new velvet collar, however, calls for a change of arrangement. The prettiest hook around the throat to the left of the chin are held very high by whale bones inserted on the inside. and where the conjunction is made a swal- lowtail, three cornered or arrowhead shaped point of velvet must jut out conspicuously.
 Some very stylish costumes of ladies' cloth or French broadcloth, designed for slender young women, are made of two shades of the cloth, the fronts of the waist arranged in straps, com pletely covered with rows of braid or fine silk cord appliques. The arrange ment of decorated tabs and straps of the dress material is greatly varied this season and in constant use Some of them simulate a girdle, a Breton corsage, with lines running horizontal ly across the waist front, a bolero jacket, a plaited waist etc. Again, the bands go round the figure from under the arms, and over the arms from front to back are laid flat, rather broad epaulets, finished with the straps. The skirt is of one shade, with bands of the other covering the seams to the knees. The small mutton-leg sleeves are very closely fitted, and show the strap trimming from waist to elbow. Sage gray, brown, and dark green cloth, or reppedwool costumes are made with blouse vests of pale all ond-colored cloth, overlaid with tiny straps of the cloth, edged with fine gold cord, with narrow panels of the light cloth showing at each side of the parted skirt. These panels are crossed all the way down with straps of the gold-corded cloth, set on in clusters. about four inches of the plain cloth showing between each two clusters.
 Incredible as it may seem in this day of silk, satin and beribboned under wear, the most expensive underclothes are made simply of lawn. It is linen lawn of the finest quality, to be sure. made exquisitely by hand and decorat ed with drawn work that one would think could only have been done under a magnifying glass. Of course real lace is another feature of linen wear. and any one who is the happy posses sor of a few articles trimmed with real lace can appreciate their value.
 Parisian women who have elegant taste as well as ample purses cry out in horror at the suggestion that Eng fish women actually use woven wool en underwear next to the skin. To the Parisian silk alone is possible. Wool