The herald., 1898-05-22

bias fiounce, but the front none. 1t was
trimmed instead with lace insertion, and q
frilling of its own to resemble pointed
overskirt. The full waist was confined by
q band of mauve glace silk, which turned
back with revers of the muslin edged also
with frilling.
A water green muslin has embroidery
down each seam and heading and edging
the Spanish fiounce; glove sleeves with
pointed cap trimmed with embroidery and
blouse having rows of the same straight
across the back, but forming VS. in front.
Sash of green ribbon edged with en-
broidery and worn with two clasps of steel
and emeralds. The green ribbon collar
was set off with the same ornaments,
which are late fad.
Velvet ribbon belts and collars are con-
sidered stylish on figured orGandie gowns.
Many Of the sleeves are shirred, the full
ness thus gained forming double ruffle
up the outside of the arm.
A few imported gowns Of plain pink, blue
or yellow muslin have slip of MORE be-
meath, but MORE is very warm, and not
likely to become fovored here.
A five-inch ruffle on the edge of a gored
skirt, with inserting top and bottom and
down each seam, is design made familiar
by the robes thus decorated, and the ready
made organdies that already flood the
stores. 1t Is an easy gown to fashion,
only requires twelve yards of goods-and
the bell shape given to the skirt is becoming
to all figures.
The robes thus trimmed are with lace or
embroidery, with plain goods for the
waist, and are particularly dainty In pure
white the sash and collar Of ribbon sup
ply all necessary color.
charming toilette of Indian muslin in
delicate pink has three ruffles to the belt,
each edged with a vine-like design of black
Chantilly lace in applique style. Sash and
collar of pink taffeta ribbon fastened with
rhinestone buckles.
The lace wandered in lengthwise form
over the sleeves and front of the blouse;
a fichu of the muslin edged with three lace
trimmed ruffles is knotted In the center
with long ends falling over the skirt. Next
to muslin, foulard is the lightest and most
suitable for summer wear, and this sea-
son a foulard gown must be included in
the outfit If one wishes to be up to date.
For young ladies' there are charming ones
having white grounds with small turquoise,
pink. green or yellow designs These are
edged with frill of No. satin ribbon the
color of the design. The blouse is cut low
and filled in with tucked yoke and glove
sleeves of white mousseline. A ribbon
sash and two frils of ribbon around the
top of the blouse complete this tasteful
little model Any clever woman can
make at home one of these gowns by the
above description.
Another popular and very stylish model
in foulard is trimmed with a thick rose
quilting or ruche of black mousseline
around the edge of the skirt, the top of the
low blouse, and on the sleeve caps, belt
and sash of black satin ribbon. Yoke COL
lar and close sleeves of cream guipure over
plain blue silk.
The laces of the season are very num-
erous, both in design, make and color; the
light butter tone is exclusively allied to
the commoner makes. French ecru is the
new shade this year. much more natural
and more like the real thing. Besides laccs
by the yards of varying widths, there arc
any number of guipure, Chantilly, ard
blonde sprays suitable for appliques. and
also festoons of lace for the edges of
f,ounces and skirts. In white, as in contra
distinction to black, the lace Of the sea-
largely, united by lace stitches with and
without a net foundation; this has pat
terms copied from some of the finest old
laces, and is used en- gros for the entire
backs Of bodices, boleros, and as flat
nounces without any fullness laid on the
skirts.
There are many spotted laces. with vary
| ing borders, some ornate, some mere van
Toll &c n
of the guipures, and it is also being used
in it's original aspect. Tambour lace and
patterns in tambour on various ground
works are to be seen in great abundance;
IT has even been introduced on the new
craquele mesh, which owes its name to the
close resemblance to the priceless cracked
china. Fashionable trimmings render in
sertions of about an inch wide much in re-
quest, and these are to be bought woven
into diamonds and crossing each other on
floral appliques, being often placed in the
center of the diamond. Ruffle width in all
laces is greatly in demand as lace Is worn
so much over the hand.
Thus far for white laces; in black the
new craquee ground assumes very prom
inent position, and the patterns are far
more artistic than before. In Chantilly
|
borrowed from the Louis XIV. period, with
cornucopia and other fancy designs, and
there is a long range of laces which can.
If desired, be cut out from the ground
work for applications and there are many
with straight edges, and some of the esprit
designs with tiny little spots intended for
frillings. A capital pattern is the acorn
with the oak leaves and an orchid on q
bold wire ground. Some of the nets are
embroidered III bold relief, and some have
sprays with crepe de chine flowers intro
duced embroidered all round. Great is the
variety in patterns.
GREEN PARASOLS.
In parasols this season the tone of ap-
pie green, which is bright and vivid, is one
OF the favorite colors, in plain glace silk,
made without lining, but with gold ribs, the
sticks colored green with cocks head at
the top. Mauve silk ones made on the
same lines have mauve handles with
crooks; this is a class of parasol that will
be much worn. Some of the seasons new
kinds are lined with lisse, put on full, and
edged with narrow lace insertion, which is
also carried UP the ribs. Many soft Benga-
line silks and satins and twilled silks are