The times., 1898-01-09
They Encircle Women'S Waists,
Spangled and Flower-strewn.
FUR HATS FOR THE WINTER
The Devotees of Fashion Shade
Their Faces With Brims of Seal,
Broadtail or Sabie-Turban Ac-
cepted as Compromise for Those
With White Hair. q

| Ieft OF us. rms Is EdtSmal beginning
for the new year, and the only consola
tion lies in the very obvious fact tha
the hustle is not t9Re revived. Some
INSCRIPTIONS persons, ass lacking in au
thority as heart or conscience; have
aroused rumor to, the effect that this
distressful load was about to be. laid
again on the suffering feminine
back. But such is positively not the
| case. 1t is enough that in the course
of few weeks every thrifty, cleaniy
/ woman will be obliged to carry the tail
| of her gown over her arm, while the
rich and untidy ones will be dragging
| handsome petticoats through dust and
mire just as thSy did six short years
| ago.
So far, the evil has only penetrated to
| the drawing room, and all the new ball
| and dinner dresses have long and unde-
nfably lovely trails, with sash ends
draping out to their very tips. What a
boon the sash is, by the way, If she
who has but one plain black evening
dress to her name will make half a
dozen Sashes for it she can almost boast
half a dozen brand-neW expressions of
her Sonber costume.
Let her make one sash of black satin
ribbon about five or six inches wide,
cut the bottom ends in swallow tail
forks, and then powder the two lengths
of ribbon with moonlight spangles. AT
her waist the ribbon is most suitably
sewed in two big, poppy-shaped ro--
settles, with centers of close -massed
spangles. In shell pink chiffon another
sash can be selected, made very wide,
and the ends for a space of twelve
inches up, ornamented with little spac-
ed chiffon ruffies Make a third sash
of green liberty silk, the ends knotted
and holding small clusters of flowers.
Pale gray crepe de chine, fringed with
yiolets, is model sash, and can, like
a good green salad, be tossed up at
home.
Besides getting all the effects possible
by the use of many sashes on one dress.
an excellent air of novelty is achieved
by clipping out the sleeves of an even
ing gown and filling in the throat. 1t is
rarely that one sees nowadays a body at
once sleeveless and decollete, for the
rule seems to be, if the neck is high,
then no sleeves, while if long sleeves are
worn, then the neck must be open. 1t
is pretty notion at the moment to
wear sleeves of some transparent goods
lightly spangled, to do away with all
puffs or ruffles on the shoulders and
finish the sleeve tops by broad black
velvet bands.
The last eXtravagant caper of fashion
is the fur hat. AS If felt and velvet We're
not rich enough crowns for her curly
coiffure, the smart woman, since Chris
mas, has been seen in picture hats OF
sealskin, broadtail and other slose ly-
ing furs. Their beauty and costliness
are beyond dispute, for the wide fur
brims are looped up with gorgeous pins
of true gems. and long ostrich plumes
curl and sWathe in feathery clouds
about the brims and crowns. Young
girls wear these splendid headpieces
when calling, but the popular small
morning hat of fur is either a round
Cossacks cap of Persian lamb, with a
pin of talisman turquoises on one side,
holding a tuft Of feathers, or smooth
beaver berretta with a pin and tuft of
feathers outstanding almost in front. a
berretta has undoubtedly a very
priestly air about 1t. for pluck it of its
ornaments and Roman Catholic pre-
late could wear it with becoming dig
nifty. 49,
What we technically know as a
toilet hat is a soft. dark green
felt. trimmed with a wreath of plated
black net and an arc of pale blue vel
vet roses. There is a knot of the roses
behind, and the flesh and blood owner
of this gem wore a fur bow,
which is every whit as fash |
ionable a neck protector as the ever |
lasting shower of fur tials. The girl |
who goes out of nights sets, it seems, |
as high a price on her head as the |
patron of the fur hat and brightly col |
ored or curly hair is no longer alone |
an all-sufficient decoration. |
Here, for instance, among the downy |
things fit for dancers topknot, is a |
ponnpom formed of pale lavender fea- |
theirs sprinkled with rhinestone chips
and out of 1t curls a gallant white |
osprey that looks as if glittering with
sections of dewdrops. Again an adorn-
ment of beauty is tiny white ostrich
tip and a white aigrette, amid which, |
jeweled butterfly has found foothold.
Just as lovely and within anyone's
reach is a big pink rose, out of tie
heart of which springs a rose aigretre
As II there were no end to combina- |
tions the tailorS are braiding navy and
gendarme blue cloth costumes with
narrow. hard. white wool braid ana
giving them vests of violet colored silk |
AT least they show such things as their
spring indications and are making
their prettiest coats with double revers,
one of cloth and then over this a
smaller one of silk.
The term now used on all sides is the
modified Russian blouse, which |
means that less and less are waists to
Dc pouched in front, just as the Scotch |
plaid is presently going to give way
before an army of small checks. Fine
red and black and green and brown,
With blue and yellow checks, will soon
appear in the new tweeds and cheviors
md instead of braiding as extensively
Is last year we are soon to be running
after the fashion of cording our )uter
garments. A few corded gowns are
already on exhibition, the ridges are
'aised in groups of a dozen over each |
Zip only, or in encircling clusters. at
intervals of an inch or two, the entire
lepth of a petticoat. The cording is
wisely diversified by raising small or
merely threadlike ridges and treating
oat lapels, collars, ETC., with this sim
lie, but most effective adornment, that
5 much less expensive than braiding.
The cording lends itself most kindly
the decoration of the new skirt that |
1ade in two pieces. One, the upper |
ALI, fits about the hips like a sheath
nd across the back almost without q
'rlnkie. The lower half, for all its full
ess. trusts entirely to the fact that it
cut on the bias. and where it is set
nto the top portion of rows of fur do |
OF conceal the connection then from |
hree to five cords are run in. Thus
n absolutely novel hang and fit in the
rt of skirt making is arrived at and
the cut of your petticoats now crit
al women judge whether sister |
oman is within or beyond the pale
the mode
Your basque or bodice is a matter Of
nall moment beside it. and unless out
n shopping or sporting bent your
urt must be trimmed.h Cords, braid,
If bands, tucks, a sash, something
ust assume the effect of drapery. and
you arc going to have but one dress
use for weddings, luncheons, teas.