The times., 1898-11-06
Dame Fashion Prefers the
Skins of Cub Bears.
ENTER, CYRANo LACE
Coquettish Satin Jackets, Wndded
and Quilted, Are In Vogue for
Rheumatic Shoulders, and There
Are Misty Lace Sleeveless Bodfces
to BE Worn When Pouring Tea.

bly, arrayed- Not self-effacement in the
altruistic sense, but with the view TO re-
ducing too solid flesh to a minimum. The
little lady who tips the scales at ninety
or at 10 pounds, who is a bundle of slim
svelt bones, who is as shapeless as a
broomstick and plant as a whalebone,
whose neck is like serpents and whose
head is small as a robins. is the woman
who shows off the prevailing gowns and
neckcloths, coats and capes, furs and
hats TO their very greatest advantage.
Flesh this winter assumes the propor-
tions of crime, and never has the plump
and the short woman had stronger in
ducements to banting, exercise and pow
erful stay laces than just now.
Rummage about in the furriers' empo-
RUINS and see the oft-repeated truth that
everything fluffy and fiouncy is the mode
for on every hand the long-haired furs
are commended. Brown bear, black cub
bear, arctic cub and above all cinnamon
bear are outseIling the fiat skins, as they
are called Arctic cub is a brilliant white
fur having hair two or three inches long
and of a singularly dazzling finish As
with all cub fur the down or fleece that
grows short and thick on the skin is soft
often come by in the poiar regions. the
price of cub fur is quite equal TO that
of arctic fox plus the value new and
fashionable article is sure to possess The
tall collars and fronts of opera cloaks are
lined with this snowy fleece and long
round boas are made of II to throw over
bare shoulders
Brown cub necklets, long boas and
stoles are adopted on all sides, but the
superlatively modish and beautiful fur is
that the cinnamon bruin yields TO cruel
beauty. This is the only yellow fur that
has ever found favor in the eyes of the
well-dressed, but so fine is its quality, so
tawny gold its tinting. on an under-fieeee
thick and soft of purest white. that Ro
wonder an exception has been made in
its favor. Its thread, as the furriers call
#, measures on the best skins four inches
in length. so that muff OF it is prodi-
gious affair and collar of 1T stands
about the neck like a collies ruff when
his blood is up. Eighty-five dollars will
purchase decent muff and shoulder
piece of this skin, while something more
is paid for arctic cub and fox.
These long-haired animals supply the
chief ornamentation for tea gowns and
their fellow lounging jackets and comb
ing robes. Russian gauZe, edged every
where with narrow bands of bear fur. is
among the striking effects of the season.
Fur also plays its role of Importance on
chiffon and on lace when delicate MORN
ing robe is being made up. More and
more fragilely lovely these bedroom cos
TUNES grow every year. American wo-
men miscall them tea gowns for they
will not wear them at the tea pouring
hour save in the sanctity of their own
apartments. English women who come
home at 5 o'clock from fashionable la
bors do joyfully patronize their tea
wrappers, receive the casual guest Of
either sex In the luxurious ease of flow
ing brocade and lace, but her American
sister has not yet screwed up her cour-
age to that point. More is the pity, for
no gorgeous dinner toilets are more luxu-
riously lovely than these creations of
jetted lace, fur. crepe, brocade and what
not else.
The woman who does not don a gown at
tea time now often contents herself, If she
is obliged to admit callers. with dark
satin skirt, a bodice of some soft pale
silk and then over 1t all she throws lace
jacket. 1t is shaped like redingote Of
tenest. hangs open in front or catches
with a couple of jeweled buttons across
the bust, drops to the hips, knees or
feet, has long, rather close sleeves and
is made of chantilly black or white rem
aissance or two laces combined. Some
times the jacket is short in the back and
very long in front, or the lengths are re-
versed, occasionally tiny seQuins follow
the outlines of the lace pattern; but
whatever the arrangement It is safe to
say that her majesty of Sheba nor Mad
anne Poppea herself ever wore more
rovalix axtrapapaOt loIr0y1O-- dress than
this.
Speaking of lace calls up a catalogue
of some very smart and original weaves,
lately put forth on the counters, and the
remark as well, that any woman is safe
nowadays In wearing machine-made imi-
tations. 1t requires an expert eye to sep
arate the sheep from the goats these days,
so closely does the factorymade lace run
that which is woven by hand, and only
a sentiment and bulging purse inspires
purchase of the latter. 1t was only to
be expected that we would have Cyra-
no lace, and 1t is already Haunting ev-
erywhere. The net of it is tea colored.
the figuring runs rather heavily along the
edges and among small embroidered dots
spattered over the width of net are small
balls of bright, variegated silk. This is
Just pretty trifie, with a momentary
NOSdt. edL anu mai i4u3st
lace are much more deserving of serious
attention, because they are all strong ri
walls in clothesland.
The braid lace appears quite conspicu-
ously on underwear, most especially on
the grateful and comforting little fan
mel petticoats, that are dished up in many
styles for smart wearers. Most of them
are very sensible and serviceable hung on
silk yoke belts. made of delicate rose or
ciel blue French body flannel, and have
a narrow fiounce, with a couple of rows
Of lace insertion at the bottom.
More costly and exceedingly pretty
ones are made of white flannel that has
a silk mesh woven into it. This mesh
appears in the form of a crepe-like fig
uring on the white ground with most
result. Mention must be
made also of the wadded skirts A lay
er of down. caught between two layers
Of rose, white, blue or black habutai
silk is what they are made of, and the
quilting is done in oldstyle diamond pat
tern. or in flower arabesques. Such
skirts are affected by rheumatic women,
10 their infinite comfort, and this class
IF women is also reveling in the use of
or undervests alone WOW
IN from Australian wool that is unbleach-
ID. These wool garments are so fine that
they can be drawn at least through
fourth finger ring; they are rich tea yell
ow in hue and are said to be warm as
Another pretty and warmth
giving underwear is Shetland wool, WOW
en- on the principle and pattern Of that
I'D reliable. the Shetland shawl.
All fashions, talked or written, still lead
ip eventually to hats. There are women
yet hacking about in their summer head
gear because they fear to put their fate
o the touch, and win or lose thereby.
They might. however as well settle down
o choice between a snare of velvet that
2 called tQdue or q nice tidy felt hat