The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-23

from that worn when the wearer goes
afoot. People who own carriages and
those who do not should make decided
difference in their choice of wardrobe
A woman who is footing her way through
the world cannot consistently wear the
trailing robes and rich materials that are
perfectly appropriate for one who spends
her afternoons in the protected cushioned
reCesses of her own establishment
Therein the habitues of good society show
themselves quite different from those
who are not ito the manner born
A woman who wears gaudy silks and
velvets on the streets and in public con-
veyances clearly indicates to the people
whom she fain would initiate, that she is
not genuine
If your life lines are cast in this work
aday world you should gown yourself
accordingly. This does net mean that hat a
woman who is earning her own living
need look painfully plainly dressed; 10
the contrary ii is her duty to herself ana
10 her sex to be gOWned comfortably and
Sensibly. The gown that would answer
these purposes was long VeXauouS ana
unsettled question among ,-t t1io 7
cut, and cut it must be confessed by
man.
The tailor-made gown is the solution of
BY a tailor-made gown I do not mean
an attempt at that garment by a Dress
maker. Party frocks, wedding dresses,
robes belong TO the domain OF the good
dreSSmaker.
Many home dressmakers can make
charmingly pretty house dresses and
evening gowns, but the home dreSSmaKer
simply cannot make a tailor-made gown
that will look as it ought to look
a tailOr-made gown is designed for &C.
casions when compactness, perfect MT
and finish, and special suitability to hard
This requires not only skill, but the pc
culiar skill Of a tailor of ability.
Therefore give your orders to compe-
tent tailors If you can afford to employ
them. If you cannot, then buy your
tailor-made gowns ready made.
There are women who pride themselves
on their ability to do anything from max
ing. a sofa out of barrel TO causing the
social world to stand still. Granted; but
they cannot make tailor-made dress
that will be absolutely faultless in tit and
finish.
Custom tailor gowns are far in ad-
vance Of ready-made work, but even the
low priced ready-made tailor dresses are
cut by tailOrS and finished by tailoresses,
and have an entirely different stamp from
the homemade or average dressmaker-
made frOck
For your tailor gowns, then. either go
10 a good tailor or buy them READY MADE.
Shun a tailor frock that shows the
feminine touch, as a man would shun
coats like mother used to make.
Whether you have your gown lined
throughout with silk should depend on
your purse. Certainly the sflk-lined gowns
have an air that is lacking when any
ing. But the best quality of silk will not
stand hard usage. 1t is necessary to go
to the expense of frequently refining your
gown. For a limited income it is wiser
to have the gown lined with the finest
quality of farmers satin or silk serge
This lining always looks fresh and will
wear as long as the gown itself lasts and
is economical.
When selecting your tailor garment do
not chose anything ultra-fashiOnable. Re
member that you intend ii for constant
use and that anything that is ultra-novel
soon grows tireSOme.
Several new designs are shown in the
Jackets of the new tailor modes.
One that is likely to be popular is mod
eled very much like a mans cutaway
coat. The skirt of the coat is either
scanned on or shows no hip seams. The
style showing no waist line seam is better
adapted to figures which desire to look
sIenderer than they really are. TnIs
jacket looks smartest with a masculine
waistcoat of the suit material or of diff
ferent fabric or color
Another new style jacket is also cut in
severely simple lines, but is scanned down
the front and buttons on the side 1t
looks very smart when made by a tailor
who knows his business.
There is still another new style designed
for those who still feel that a tailor gown
must more nearly approach the elabora-
ton of other dresses. 1t is made in the
new Overlay effect and is deliberately
trimmed in braid and fur.
For practical purposes I would not ad