New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-01-16
END OF TERRAPIN NEAR.
THE FAMOUS CHESAPEAKE BAY Ola
MOND-DACK VARIETY AL
MOST EXTINCT.
MEASURES URGED FOR ITS PRESERVATION AND
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES SPECIES USED
TALKS WITH EXPERTS ON THE

TALKS WITH EXPERTS ON THE
LUSCIOUS DEILcACY.
A recent report of the Maryland Fish Commission
announces the practical determination OF the fa-
NOUS Chesapeake Bay diamond-back terrapin and
recommends that the State take immediate steps
20 protect and propagate the species
One of Maryland's early laws forbids slave-owners
under severe penalties feeding terrapn 10 their
slaves oftener than three times a week which they
were inclined TO do on account OF the enormous
Quantities OF these tortoises to be found in the
waters OF tho Chesapeake. together with tnelr eA-
cee6ing cheapness. That in the course OF COM
parativey short time this great delicacy whlch is
INDIGENOUS 10 the North American continent shouid
be threatened with determination seems an epitome
OF the extravaganza and wasteful nature or the
American people. This country has given TO the
world three o. its greatest decacies-the canvas
back duck the red-head duck and the teriapha.
In the beginning all were found IN such great
quantities as to be vi hin tho reach OF every ono IN
price but tho inefticiency OF tho laws which pro-
tected them and their indiscrimnate killing TOT
the market havo gone to such lengths that now the
common restaurant pr1co for canvas backs is rom
IS 90 to 81 for redhead. from 8 % TO H. ana LOT
terrapin, 50 % a portion The ducks are now pro-
tected every where by law and closed seasons during
breeding time are observed, but the nature OF the
terrapin euch that II IS ell but Impossible 10 pro-
tect HIM and Il would that this luscious
delicacy would coon become thing OF the past
Herewith are given the opinions OF the leading
hotel hoepers ard sundry other experts on tho pres
en1 and future OF the terropin:
NETWORK KNOWS A GOOD THING
Eugene @. Blaokford, Of Fulton Market, is the
leading dealer IN terrapin in the New-York Market
and probably IN tho country, and he has given much
time 70 their study. When seen by Tribune re-
porter no said:
''Terrapin decidedly scarce In the New-York
market particularly those known as Chesapeake
Bay diamond back. and the last We had here were
sold at from $50 to S75 per dozen Terrapin are
sold according to their measure on the bottom
shell and these prices for terrapin from nve
70 seven inches long. Some forty years ago there
was no market for terTapn IN New-fork, ana the
demand for them came principally from southern
cities. To-day New-York is BY all ocds the great
est consumer OF this delcacy. and baltimore
Philadelphia and Washington rank next In the or
der named
To-day tho terrapin most highly priced by cpl
cures come from Long Island. and the choicest
Of these range IN price from $50 TO $40 the oozeh'
The next best come from New-Jersey, but they
are not numerous enough to be a factor Going
eouth of New-Jersey, we come TO the nome OF lie
Chesapeake Bay diamond-back, which are found
IN the waters Of Delaware Maryland ana Virginia
They have long been the main source OF supply
for finer grade terrapin but OF late they nave De-
come exceedingly scarce.
Next we come to North Carolina. whose best
,errapin are worth about so a dozen. and from
that point south they seem TO deteriorate rapidly
in quality and also IN price Although large
quantities are taken the coasts OF south caro-
lima Georgia and Florida, mono OF them sell for
ov.r Ns per dozen Next come 10 the product
Of the Gulf Of Mexico. and Mobile and New-Oreahs
ship us enormous quantities. as also does calves
ton These Gulf terrapin are large IN SIZE se'-
dom measuring less than seven inches IN iehs'"'
but the flesh Is coarse Of texture and havor, anu
they seldom sell for over S2 per Dozen Ihese
hat fhQxv
and are steadily increasing The very expensive
ones such rs those from Long Island. which arc
worth from s. 10 SO apiece are out or the reach
OF the hotels and cafes and are brought to TINS
market exclusively 70 supply the demand OF private
houses.
QUESTION OF PROPAGATION.
"a great many experiments have been made IN
efforts 70 propagate and rear them but they 90
not seem susceptible OF protection, and tho eX-
nerments have been elmost uniformly failures.
One reason seems be the length OF time IL taxes
the terapn TO attain maturity which Is rum
eight 10 ten years. This makes the business IN
nroftabe. and even II the experinenters could az
ford 10 wait so long the meat OF the terrapin pro-
6uced vould probably not be Of the desired flavor
This Is proved by the fact that II terraplh are
confined IN pens, even for only snort unle' tne
meat toughens and suffers loss or havor Whlch
increases IN direct ratio with the length Oh uiho
during which they are confined. The terrapn are
osrght in the feeding season. from May 70 Decenl-
her and ~ in summer confined in pens TO await
the winter market these lose flavor ana lne oea'
we get are caught IN December JUST as they Desi"
~ hibernate You know they bury themselves III
mud and sleep for six months OF the year ln'S
peculiarity we are enabled 10 make use o. as We
nack +he-o IN barrels with moss and place them
IN a CELLAR where II is cold but not freezing !hey
will remain there all through the winter "i'i,'r
moving and the confinement does not niec' mn
oavor II kept later than May they oeterlora'e
80 On On their natural state. but they Will eat
crabe and even FISH IN confinement put tho ia''ei
"a Injurious 20 their fine taste. II they are C'0s'
ana penned during the summer an expert cal
tel this bv certain external INDICATIONS OH 'iio
shell and claws , .o,,r
.o,asa ESTIMATES are based on female teIrapin
seven inches long The female only Is sought ai'ei'
90 the bull terrapin Is tougher. ana oiiy '"ieo
inches in length. He Is not good enough ioi s'o"''
heng only used for soups generally. ana or'hss
from $50 to 81 a dozen. We always hno 'no''
bulls than females ~
,,,,,, .errapn are doomed One State alone can 90
U,,a N prevent determination. and even II all me
states acted In concert. and mace AVS IUr odnct
raosn nrotect!on the extreme value OK the prOuuct
,o,,id ,roye an Irresistible temptation 10 poacheIs
while the small size OF the terraplt %ou1u ina an
them when once captured. easy OF concedlihenl
and disposal"
TALK WITH MR.. DELMoNIco
Charles pelrnonico. the present head OF the
famous res taurant Of that name spoke or the mat
ter seriously. saying
az sbold say terrapin now more expensive
ard scarcer than ever before. We buy ours direct
from Virginia, and never use any which are less
than eight inches in length. we have TO pay extra
for them but we never have complaints from cpl
cures Sometimes We ind dlIhculty IN getuhs
what we want but we always meet this by raising
our hid and they have always up 20 now been
Forthcoming. You can generally get what you want
II YOU pay enough for II. .
"Sone conno!sseurs say there are more, but TO
MY, ynird there have never seemed but three ways
Of serving terrapin: Philadelphia style. with white
sauce: Baltimore style with brown sauce, and au
aaturel. simply cooked WIN putter pepper aiau SAT-
10 taste" .
Warren T. Leland, Of the wel-known hotel fam
flv thought the danger Of the extinction Of ter
al and ccpdh inns fol-