Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-01-23


The sudden appearance of spring-like
gowns in the dressmalling establishments.
writes the Paris correspondent of the New
York Tribune. reminds one that the Nice
season is not far away, and il is to these
creations, designed for the Midi. that one
looks each winter for the first hints of the
coming modes. Moreover. the Nice gowns
form a pleasant break between the autumn
the two. for any especially pretty fashion
Tor which the winter is responsible is used
Pgain In the lighter materials that are
deemed more suitable for this peculiar mi
saison.
Before giving any detailed description OF
Of the dressmakers do, deny any respon-
sibility concerning them; they are fashions
OF the moment. and may form the basis
later on.
First of all. a great many skirts are plain
IN the sense of being untrimmed. and som
of them are wonderfully draped. 1t might
be an eXaggeration to state that all of them
have bustles. but certainly a great many
boast such an appendage.. They are really
lovely; some think them lovelier than wa
even the circular skirt in the height of its
gracefulness.
IN front and cut as If the front part of the
skirt were a wide apron that drew about
ana looped up in the most graceful, fiat
pleats. over the back breadths; these e.
cape from under the drapery in fan shape
folds that drag a trife. Other skirts have
no attempt at a drapery. but the back folds
Really this question. OF bustles. which
we have had before us several seasons, has
been solved by the simple process Of evolu-
How can GIeV we st Stand s them w ans f iasre cry w Ths
out the aid OF hoops?" They grew no
larger, and there Were no hoops. Compare
year ago. with one of to-day; it seems al
most ludicrous, for the change has been
SO gradual that one has forgotten what
~shrinkage there has been.
From shoulder to hem of skirt, breadth
has been lost, and as bodices are still elab-
from the severity of the plain basque, to
preserve the slendernesS of the waistline
and to afford a reason for the trailing
rangement of the back folds. 1t would be
a monstrosity If the skirt did not demand
II; 1t would not be advisable to put in a
tournure with any cut of skirt, but the eff
feet Is harmonious when skirt and general
style Of costume call for it.
A white wool has running through 1t a
siiky stripe woven In basket form. and
makes a skirt lined with apple-green satin
that is cut to cling about but not to define
hind that falls from over a decided tourn-
ure. There Is no trimming on the skirt.
but. as II must be lifted, the ruffle-trimmed
green lining presents a nice contrast. The
bodice opens. to show a tucked front of
green mousseline de sole, and tiny ruchings
of the thin green stuff edge the deep collar
and revers. The sleeves are decidedly orig
inal. of mousseline de sole arranged in tiny
pleats and with gold-embroidered turnover
A great deal of pleated material is used
hardly matters what the material is, and
cloth. satin, mousseline de sole and velvet
are equally liked. On a gown of gray panne
satin a Queerly cut lacket-bodice has a
shawl collar and straight revers that fall in
q point below the waist, faced with pleated
violet cloth, This is the only touch of vio-
let on the dress, the rest OF the trimming
consisting of ruchings of gray mousseline
de sole, with headings of steel embroidery.
s risate and Se some s OF fhs R nshys' u eed Il THIS IS F Pesr
is extremely light in weight. One sees small
.okes and chokers of one piece of velvet,
with the pleats running, up and down. The
seine de sole in the back.
Shawl points bid fair to grow tiresome
before long, so many of them are Seen and
so often they are not pretty. But. like the
little girl with the little curl, nice exam-
pies of them are very nice indeed, end to
make lace skirts few effects are more sue
c~essful. OF course. the ideal skirt IF this
sort has one or two lace shawls used as
the drapery, but net and gowns of ordinary
lace are fashioned with overskirt cut in
poll Is that may be edged with a lace ruffle
or tiny ruching. What should one 40 with
out that tiny ruching? 1t makes or as
800. sA IA AAoAA AiS SA~SsSs 49,
return to shawl points. there are more
ways OF arranging them than to put one
in front and a second longer one over the
train, or 10 have the overskirt SO ranged
that a point falls on each side. If the stun
10 thin, II may be managed to show sew
eral points, 1rregularly disposed. An ode
shawl effect is seen on a street costume of
silver blue wool and dark blue velvet The
lower skirt Is of velvet, trimmed about the
hem with galloon and narrow silk fringe.
For the overskirt is a fitted yoke, with
deep point outlined by more GALLON and
fringe. this trimming being black. Hanging
from the yoke, and appearing as q contin-
uation of IL, is a fitted volaIt, some fifteen
inches deep. that make the shawl points
front and back.
A graceful gown OF gray wool was seen.
the skirt arranged in the latest fashion,
with the soft drapery falling over a decided
~tournure. Three rows OF white satin rib
bon edged the slight drapery. The bodice
is q blouse with belt and a deem. draped
yoke of gray velvet embroidered with steel.
Edging the yoke is a lattice work trim
ming OF white ribbon. the same forming
caps to the sleeves. 1t may be we'll 10
remark now that sleeves show a decisive
tendency TO rise a little above the shout
ders. Certainly what drapery there is is
pushed up rather than allowed 10 drop
ever.
A maroon cashmere Is made in a prin-
cess gown, deliberately trimmed with Per
sian velvet. A fichu of the velvet passes
around the shoulders, is caught in blouse
fashion At the waist line in front and con-
tinues in a panel on the front of the skirt
The fichu is shaped to make a slight can
astrakhan. Blue mousseline de sole makes
q little vest and Cloker.