The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-30


be obliged to wear it every
where during the entire winter. She real
ICES that wrap of that character is in
tended to be one of several rather than the
only one garment of it's class. Coats and
jackets have proved 10 be always fash
ionable and always serviceable. But one
must keep up with the modish movement
of dress, be it what ii may; consequently.
If we have a very good short jacket, the
thing TO do is to study 1t carefully, and
plan the best way TO remodel its length.
The skirt or basque may be heightened in
many ways Supposing the cloth cannot
be matched exactly, we may fall back
on the modsh touch of using another
shade of the same color. That will be
found to result wonderfully we'll when
seen between rows of fur. Then the
revers, If not entirely of fur, should be of
the new shade of cloth, and the collar
e and cuffs also. II is not intended that
the new shade of cloth should form the
outside of the collar; that would be In
bad taste, but as a lining it would be In
keeping perfectly.
Many of the smartest Paris gowns built
of cloth show two shades of one color
or have a contrasting color introduced. be-
tween cuttings of the cloth, these stitched
down afterward each side. A snuff
brown ladies' cloth had a charmingly
graceful skirt design so devised as to
mount up and finish to perfection on the
bodice 1t is carried out in gourd-yellow
cloth, the lines not over a quarter of an
inch wide A burnt orange velvet chemi-
settle with left strap and rosette de-
scending te the belt, intermingled with
ecru guipure lace. This lace also formed
half collars and front, completing a de-
lightful scheme of color.
The thing to avoid in altering an out
side garment is introducing contrasts
TO keep vivid tones subdued There are
numerous ways of doing this, such as by
the use of passementeries, black laces
pralQs ana strappings to break the color
In the matter of revers and collars they
may be allowed to stand out more posi-
lively, II harshness is avoided and no
abuse Of the privilege is made. For in
stance, white satin seldom can be worn
as taclngs to such parts without being
yelled with lace
Regarding skirts the foundation taffeta
pettlcoat remains separate from the top
or outside skirt, as in our summer gowns.
having an accordion founce, and measur,,
tom. All new skirts are long. too
long to shop or, to go about the
other skirt to keep 1t clean. Unless we
DO. and pity, It is to De SO taxed we
have nothing left US but letting them
hang to sweep the streets, as we see daily
very. careless untidy women doing. The
outside skirt is simply faced and Stitched
bottom finish which all skirts now have,
for they are all trimmed in some way
Fitted fiounces hold their sway su-
warned against attending them, espe-
cially in cloth, unless they obtain the
services of tailor to cut them out. All
the best dressmakers employ a tailor for
such work. II one has a cloth gown made
after the model of last spring there will
be found very little to do to it, unless to
make 1t fit the figure more closely at the
top and to trim the opening at the back
with groups of small buttons or to close
the back and open the skirt on one side
and to add the same button trimming on
the hip seams; both are new touches
which take away from m the excessive
One of the favorite plain skirt models
in new Paris gowns has bias seams in
front and in the back. All such skirts
measure four yards round the bottom.
Cross striped materials, both in woolens
and silks, which are so popular at the
moment, look the best when their skirts
are made up after this model. AS
an instance, there is very smart
like foundation, cross-striped with satin
cords an inch apart, and found in all the
modsh colors Of the season. There is no
need of a fitted fiounce or trimmings on
reason is IL mentioned as the smartest
and least expensive skirt one may choose.
The meeting of these stripes on the bias
on the front and back seams is IN Itself
most effective trimming.
The bodice material for the back is
scanned on the bias to correspond, which
carries charming line from neck to hem
of skirt. The material for the fronts
starts on the bias under the arms and
Grapes up toward the center. Velvet 10
then used for the chemisette. or the small
coachman's cape. or the divided collars,
which separate front and back, three of
the smartest styles observed on French
gowns.
Bias seams are also carried out on the
sleeves. All new sleeves are slit up very
high above the wrists. This gives