The record-union., 1898-06-12


these and also bright green parrots
wings are used on hats of jet black.
Newer in white gowns than those Of
duck, pique, or "dressy' muslin are
toilets of white barege made over white
taffeta silk and trimmed with frill
or ruches on the gored skirt that is
shaped with a demi-train. The elab-
oration of these dresses is in the round
waist which is decorated with chiffon
pleatings arranged in surplice form,
narrow vest of handsome lace and belt
and shoulder bows and ends Of medi-
um- wide white satin ribbon. The
sleeves are very small mutton-leg
shapes tapering to the wrist and there
turning with narrow lace cuff finished
with satin bow A frill Of pleated
chiffon falls over the hand. The neck
is finished to correspond with ribbon
bows, lace points, and a standing frill
of chiffon.
Shirt-waists of every dainty variety,
fancy, tight fitting basque bodices. with
small revers, or Etons with or without
elongated scarf-fronts, will next sea-
son be permissible on all sorts of out
of-door costumes, as well as many In
door toilets. These, Notwithstanding
their extended vogue, remain among
the essentially picturesque fashions
which can be elaborated upon by those
who like fanciful effects, or they can
easily be modified to suit the taste of
the most simple dressers. The easy
neglige order Of things is still to be
carried to considerably extent this
summer, reaching even to the gowns
of ceremony. But trimness and ex-
treme neatness go hand in hand with
this approved style. There are soft
surpliced folds, but most carefully
draped or dropped. There are ribbon
garnitures, but time is taken to ar
range each loop, choux, and falling end.
The shirt-waist is taut on the figure,
and where You find the flowing lines
and the easy grace of the so-termed
"neglige" toilet. there also you will find
traces of the tailor's work, or the SYM
metrical finished workmanship of the
artistic dressmaker.
The toque and the turban are set be-
side the sailor and English walking
hats as claimants for fashionable favor
this season. The little French toque is
greater favorite than the turban be-
cause it is becoming to more faces than
the latter hat, and also because it ad-
inits of so very many more ways of
trimming. 1t appears to be the very
young or very old who can best wear
bonnets in these days, granting with
the former a profusion of wavy hair
above the forehead, and a very simple
but exceedingly Frenchy bonnet to
crown this aureole. Middle-aged wo-
man still continue for general wear to
select tOques and certain shaped round
hats of plain style and fair-sized brim
in lieu of the so-called bonnet" which
is really no bonnet at all. These neat
smartly trimmed hats as a rule prove
very becoming, and often the softening
effect of the veil worn with them is
much of an aid to the appearance.
Judgment. however, must always be
exercised in the choice of hat for an
elderly lady-its color, contour and dec
Grafton. Eccentricities which might
admirably become sweet sixteen would
and do frequently render sombre sixty
ridiculous. The toque is a very salts
factory compromise head covering be-
tween the toy bonnet and the some
times doubtful round hat for the wo-
man past her youth
Berthas and pointed fichus, to wear
with various summer dresses, are
formed of Canton crepe, crepe lisse,
mousseline de sole, Lyons tule and
chiffon of every tint and tone of white.
Their garniture is lace, in such pro-
fusion that little of the foundation is
visible when they are adjusted to the
figure, for festoons of fairy frills seem
a n
waist. Some very elegant dress"
wraps are made of handsome lace
fiouncing, cut into shape and grace
| fully draped. Other light garments of
| net, in black or white, are in burnoose
form, and lined with rose-color, mauve
| or yellow satin.
To the minor details of the toilet such
especial attention is now paid that no
| inconsiderable portion of a woman's
dress allowance is swallowed up in the
purchase of frilings, blouse fronts,
cape collars, chiffon vests and collar
cites, buckles, ornaments for the hair,
and belt and other ct ceteras which,
alas, are ephemeral to the last degree
Unless one can afford to renew ones
stock Of fripperies very frequently, it
is better to choose wisely in their Sc
lection, dispensing with some of the
more delicate varieties, for nothing
looks worse than crumpled lisse, dingy
laceS, or ribbons that have lost their
pristine freshness. In place of the
elaborate styles are sold many very
pretty neck ruches with a tiny lace
edge that does not easily become soiled,
also variety of finely pleated fabrics
that are used as garnitures for the
neck. They are wonderfully becoming
to the most of women, and fatty con-
tradict the old adage of beauty una
dorned." Not a few of these frillings
do up very successfully once and
again.
Exceedingly pretty dress skirts of
embroidered French zephyr goods are
sold at from s. to So SO each: and
plaids and checks, cost from 20 cents to
81 % yard. Among other highly fav-
ored summer materials are new lovely
cpen-worlS batistes, silk Madras, baya-
dere-patterned French ginghams in
beautiful color blendings; canvas goods
in silk and wool weaves, exquisitely
embroidered etamines, printed dimities,
Geisha cloths, and organdies in very
tempting and beautiful designs and
tintings.
A very snowy but very pretty French
gown just received is of mcolored
silk striped with a beautiful shade of
old rose, figured with a minute trail Of
dc md 1Nl g