The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1898-02-13

widths of the skirt being so carefully
goTed as not to throw a heavy gather
ing or plating of goods about the waist
1t hips or buck.
a pretty treatment of this special
costume is shown il the Countess Kill
dare sleeve, as Il is for some dress
makers reason called. Any arm shows
advantageously inside it, and the adop-
tiCn % aigretues and shoulder knots,
repeated IN the hair, is a charming
fancy ot The hour. II IS Significant,
100, for feather decoration promises 10
lie prominent on some of the spring
dancing dresses. 1t is already possible
to buy bordering for fiounces made OF
ostrich and marabout feathsring, and
very splendid spring model OF din
ner dress recent, imported showed all
the trimmings of white ostrich feather
ing o. the green velvet train and
bodice.
Though there is no wholesale return
to empire fashions revived about I'VE
years AGO, many women who have the
independence OF spirit to choose the
style that most enhances their looks,
have restored the Josephine gown TO
its rightful place. 1nnumerahle slim
young girls and slender matrons have
worn Josephine dresses TO dance and
dine in all winter, until this has become
an accepted style.
One and ali the JoSephines are made
with perfectly plain underslips oil silk,
tight-ntting and fastening behind. over
the foundation OF silk falls a loose
flowing dra0ery. fastened only at the
bust, Of some transparent goods, chif-
ION, soft silk muslin, grenadine, silk
nuns yelling. or whatever the taste or
pocket of the wearer can select or af-
lord. Usually the flowing ROBE IS pow
dered with sDangles a wreath of flow
ers finishes the open neck. and 'ong
ruched sleeves of transparent stuff
complete what can be either a very
costly or very inexpensive little even
ing dress. Absolutely all pufiiness has
disappeared from the shoulders OF
dancing toilets, and there is a tendency
to mako the shoulder strap Just row
of roses. 4 fiat fold of velvet, or even
q trio of strings of false pearls. Across
he bust perfectly simple, stI light line
is drawn, not even shirred heading is
used. and only very young girls adopt
the bertha.
EVENING COIFFURES.
The decoHetage is shaped square,
back and front, in the majority of
cases, and to touch the last detail of
the evening toilet the hair is dressed
very high. The individual who can
not afford cleaning abundant coils to
lie one EtOl dlbtneT can ldll Ddch upon
the Louis Seize bows, tufts Of feathers
and jeweled pins, all of which make for
srateliness and airy effect Two OF the
latest modes of hair arrangement both
Partisan ideas, are supplied in the
sketch this week.
The big rear bow of hair is the most
recent utterance of the hairdressers'
art, and is made by the simple process
of drawing ali the hair to a point just
no f,,c1 h. =
is tied as tightly as possible. the hair is
twisted into the form of a simple knot,
one loop is pulled out light and loose,
and the whole edifice is made fir;n
by single, but three-pronged hairpin.
This pin is so tucked in as not to show
at any point and the whole object pur-
sued is 10 give the impression OF the
hair having been simply tied, not TAX
ing support from pins or other cOnVen-
tional aids. No fringes of curls, on
throat or forehead, are permitted with
this design that is eminently smart, but
can only be safely recommended to the
woman with a handsome forehead and
a pretty nose.
The third sketch reveals how Aneri-
can women have at last adopted
French fashion, at least three years
old. Of disposing their locks when hat
is Worn. y postscript to this sentence
blowsing Of hair is only artistic il tho
hat above it is wide brimmed, and
many women not only drop the hair in
a full silky bag behind. but roll Il up
in a stately pOmpadCur in front and
the consequences are striking, though
the true result is to show 4 fine shin
ming fleece off to the best possible ad-
vantage. The rear bag it is not given
TO every woman to enjoy in its perfec-
ton, for only those whose hair is quite
even in length can do this thing as the
law of fashion demands.
Every elderly lady who keeps any
pace with the modes of today not only
pompadours her white hair very high.
but wears rather cocuettishly above
one temple either a tiny bow of black
tulle, or a small spangled butterfly of
the same material. Puffs piled on puffs
build up the lofty chignon behind the
pCmpadoul, and where the hair IS scant
on the back of the head, as is so often
the case with venerable matrons. two
tabs o. very fine lace, either white or
black. are caught into the base of the
puff crown. crossed between the ears.
and the ends fall out gracefully on
either shoulder. Sometimes the lace is
wove-. - Drettily with the puffs, and
where the lace is rot used black or
white tulIe is considered a most worthy
substitute.
Not yet has straight hair come to
claim the admiration it merits, and by
art or natures aid every woman con-
times assiduously to wave her locks !
Ill 81,