The times., 1898-11-13
MILLINERY MASTERPIECES
The 0verskirt's Return Now
an Accomplished Fact.
ITS VARIOUS DISCUSSES
Girls Who Yenrn After Rosy Cheeks
AbjurinE Carriers md Wearing
Hosiery With Elastic Tops-CoIor-
ed Steel JeweIry in Vogue.

New York. Nov. 12.-Was there ever n
time when the doctrine that beauty una
dorned is adorned the most was more dis
counted than in this autumn of fashiona-
BILE grace? The prevailing theory of mod
ish beauty is not only to walk in silk at
tire, but to actually ransack the ages and
spoil the climes in order to add one more
flounce or spangle to that hopelessly COM
plicated problem, the smart toilet.
At the present moment, women are
making their final, and to be sure it's a
feeble, protest against the overdress.
which from an ominous promise has
grown all at once into a mighty fact
There are dressmakers so secure in their
faith that the overdress has come to stay,
that they will turn away n customer
rather than make a skirt without train
and drapery. Their argument is that 10
turn out so old-fashioned garment as
straight, undecorated short skirt would
be equal TO an admission of tagging in
fashions fear, and 1t is better to lose
a customer than suffer so deep a dis
grace. The customer usually goes off in
rage and imagining vain thing, to re-
the inconvenient trappings that the old
tyrant Fashion has decreed.
There is no denying that the overskirt
Is a pleasant relief to the eye grown
tired of straight lines, and that a good
many women arethe better in looks for
the kindly If uncomfortable draperies.
so far no hard and fast rule has been
made for the hanging of the overskirts.
1t may take the form of fiounces. nut on
IN the I.OlliS Nv IL h.
ingote, or you can attach your extra
frills to the long tolls of your basque.
and thus cast the extra of wool or silk
on your shoulders
You can If you like revive the polonaise
in whose honor, as an all around serv- -ce-
able and graceful garment, too much can
hardly be said. and you are advised TO
have your polonaise, redingote, or what
ever you use, of a figured goods over an
underskirt of solid tone. Tailors are
elated over effects in checks and Scotch
plaids upon plain material, or they braid
the overskirt until it must be confessed
that some of their new dresses are intol-
erably heavy.
1t is better on the whole TO rather fight
shy of the tailors and trust to the dress
makers art, for in silk or the lighter
woods the overdresses are not so hard to
carry, though many are loaded with jet
on velvet and the exaggerated embroid-
cries of the season.
In justice to modern art and extrava-
gance in dress. 1t must be confessed that
the inventories for aiding women who
have not long purses or the benefit OF ac-
complished artisans in the building OF
hats and gowns, are multiplying without
limit. 1t is perfectly easy to drop in at
any good shop these days and purchase
aha
sewed velvet facing, or brim fold or bind
ing, also to procure all the bows needed,
and these made up by the most skiilful
hands and sold at a reasonable late.
Ostrich and other feathers are set forth
on counters made up in charming pana-
ches and clusters and caught by Jeweled
ornaments or velvet knots at their bases.
Atone counter it is quite possible 10 buy
a black brim made of a felt braid and At
another a pudding, Holhein or Rubens
crown OF any colored velvet, or embroid-
cred silk To put these two together, to
affix the requisite bows and place the
plumage is the simplest maneuver, and
no expenditure of labor or taste is re-
quired: the hat fairly grows of Itself and
the price is just about one-half that OF
chapeau trimmed by a milliner.
An enterprising hat designer is inter-
that deserves consideration. II is rath-
er fiat capote, of velvet bows and flowers
and at one side / sa handsome oriilame
of ostrich feathers When the wearer Of
such a bonnet settles in her orchestra
chair she is apt to create CONSERVATION
In the playgoers behind, but as the cur
tain goes up she relieves their sunerings
by calmly upsetting the the cluster OIL
feathers and holding them in her lap un-
I'll the curtain drops on the final tab.eau.
Al this she settles her feathers once
more where they belong and it is all done
by means of simple catch somewhere
in the velvet bows and a few prongs at
the base of the bouquet of plumes.
For a long period violets have had un-
disputed reign as the flowers to be used
In touching up black hats and in the max
ing of little bonnets. In the last week
or two pansies have begun to assert
themselves, and in sort of joyous sur
prise over the possibilities of this flower
women are wearing them on all sides. A