The San Francisco call., 1898-12-11
Lady Curzon Hat and Collar

It is said that the war has greatly brought down the prices of articles, for the manufacturerers realizing the wave of prosperity that would follow have flooded the market, and that you can buy. for a dollar a great many more things this year than you could get last year for that price. Whatever may be the political ex- planation-and we women will not go into that-we can only remark that the Christ mas shops are absolutely tempting. The best day to shop is the bargain day never advertise bargains unless they have them; and by reading carefully the adver- Using columns in this paper you can know just where to get the best articles at the most advantageous prices.
 Many of these advertisements rive the actual figures, and where there is not are set forth in such a fashion that you can get an idea of exactly what you want
 One of the cleverest women in New York has habit of cutting the advertisements out of the daily papers and pasting them in little book, which she calls her shop ping book" The slips are removable, so that every week she has new book. Act ing upon this suggestion you can to-day read carefully all the advertisements in this paper and cut out those that please you. Paste them upon sheets of writing paper and slip the sheets into little leather case. As you are shopping. con- suit these and you will find yourself fur nlshed with hand guide or index to the stores. It is really worth while, for 1t saves time and temper to know just ex- acty where you can get just what you want for your own price.
 The folded ribbon stock is still fashion able. Get ribbon three times too wide for the neck and fold it over a stiff piece of crinoline. Hook the crinoline at the back and make your ribbon into bow This is the newest way to make your col- lar stand up, and it Is really more becom-- ing. For belt get very wide ribbon and crumple 1t down to an inch. This is the extreme of fashion.
 They are still trimming fashionable hats with ostrich plumes. Discouraging, isn't 1t, when you know that a single plume costs $3? But an ostrich plume is always a good investment, and you can dye and recurl 1t and use it again next year.
 Economy is a good thing, and no one will regret 1t; but why talk about it at this time of year, When everything is so beautiful and the gift season at hand too? If you are limited, purchase those things which you know you must have during the year. Buy for the family all sorts of socks and useful articles All will be glad to get them; perhaps more glad than to receive something senseless. And for your other friends get useful articles com bined with beautiful ones.
 know a New York woman who invari- ably gives her sister very pretty hat: from thing of ridicule at first it has be- come a greatly enjoyed article. One sis ter enjoys the buying, the other one en- joys the wearing. It is all trimmed after 
 CTS smartest dress. Just think what a delightful yuletide gift A brand-new hat for Christmasi
 And, by the way, have you seen the new tilted hats the shops are showing?
 HELEN WARD. - o APPEAR well dressed is a
 question of considerable study
 and perplexity to the woman of
 moderate income who desires to
 N reflect credit on her family and
 maintain her self-respect.
 There are two maxims which the woman who would accomplish this must observe:
 Never go to extremes is the first one Patronize only the best shops Is the second.
 When the time for purchasing the win ter wardrobe arrives, the first thing to do is to get pencil and paper and figure what amount can justly be set aside for the necessary clothes.
 Choose the wardrobe with great care. beginning with the things most needed. When this is satisfactorily done, have in mind the styles desired and proceed to the best shops for the materials.
 For street wear in the morning nothing looks so neat as a perfect fitting tailor gown with white collar. cuffs and tie An English walking hat or black velvet toque is more suitable to wear with this cos tune than a befeathered Gainsborough. For afternoon shopping instead of the linen collar, jabot of chiffon or ribbon and lace can be worn.
 With the tailor-made gown, common sense shoes and neat gloves are neces- sity The handsomer the gown the more utterly is the effect spoiled by shabby boots and soiled gloves.
 Apropos of gloves it must be remem- bered that either the castor or glace glove are the best form for morning wear. For afternoon or evening, suede is the chosen article. These come in all shades of light tan and gray, which are the most fashion able tints of the moment.
 The white glace kid gloves with black stitchings are completely out of style. This is rather to be deplored, as there is