Arizona republican., 1898-04-24
SOCIET1.

There is no time in the year when one is SO possessed of longing for a dainty, new frock as in the early spring All nature seems fresh and fair, and no woman is so dead to na- ture's charms as not to long to emu late her example-witness the Easter bonnet.
 The majority of Us are limited in the amounts we can spend at any one season On the frivolities or necessities of the toilet, and we leave out for the present the ha2py few who have only to order whatever and however they wish in the way of gowns, and cons.d 1T seriously the subject of utility gown which will be bright and fresh during the spring months and yet suitable for travelling and street wear during the summer. This is quite aside from the lighter summer gowns, which can be managed by any one who has dol lar CT so to spend in materials
 The best material is a lightweight cheviot, homespun or canvas cloth, although this by no means exhausts the lightweight materials which will stand shower, dust storm and vari Ous other vicissitudes and still rise fresh and unshrunken Tans and grays are rather light, but are so popular, the latter especially, that it is wise to choose enc of these shades, provid- ing they are becoming. Black is go- ing to be very much worn for spring and summer in lightweight cloth gowns, but it spots easily and looks warm on a hot, dusty day; besides. it is hard to give it that spring-like freshness which the feminine soul seems to crave during April. May and June. Dark blue serge never goes out of fashion, and many women would think it quite as impossible to go through the summer without a gown of this serviceable colcr and mate ial as to forego straw hat Broadcloth, ladies' cloth or smooth-faced clcth Of any kind should never be chosen for a spring and summer gown; 1t spots catches the dust, is warm to wear. and looks it.
 A woman who was noted for her ex- quisite gowns when she was a society woman and who has been upon the stage for several years, was Induced by we'll known periodical to write a little article upon the art of dress ing. Her creed could be formulated in few words, and one often hears 1t from people of less authority. It is to put ones money into the making of gown. The material does not matter so much. It need only be be- coming in shade and need not be ex- pensfve. Of course, every woman of good taste will avoid a shoddy looking or cheap material, but she can get excellent values nowadays for less than dollar a yard. Such good stuffs are now made in Canada and parts of our own country that it is no longer absolutely necessary to pay the price of imported" woolens when having a lightweight woolen gown made All that is necessary is to go to a reliable house, take their advice about the ma terials they sell as to quality. and be guided by your own taste in the mat ter of becomingness of design and shades
 Another matter of importance is the lining. It really is far better to have a silk lining for gown, especially if one is to have that for almost every occasion. Here we come to real item of expense, for a good lining silk cannot be bought for less than 75 cents a yard, and even then it is not always safe to trust it. It is better this year to buy the silks with little stiffening in them. They rustic less, consequent ly are in better taste and wear longer Of course, silk lining is not an abso- 1ute necessity. It is honestly a lux ury, and if one cannot afford to be ex- travagant on that score it is well to turn contentedly to the many hand some Things which can be found at the best local stores. If silk is used it will be found that it wears much better with the new drop skirt effect than it did when the lining was fasten- ed to the outside skirt at every seam
 I referred last week to the fiy-front coats. They are becoming very pop ular and are especially suited to youthful, girlish figures. They are quite short and often are fastened with two large handsome buttons. One shown the other day was of gray, fas- tened with two large steel buttons. There was wide, slightly fulled col lar of white cloth. trimmed with sill yer embroidery, which gave character to the whole garment. The Russian blouse has become a full-front only. Very many of the new coats blouse in front, and are belted at the waist line, but the coat fits snugly, in the back and on the sides, giving a much more spruce look than was possible last winter. A small basque effect In the back is often used even with a full front which is confined in a belt
 
 The Riding club spent a very pleas ant evening Wednesday at the resi- dence of Miss Nab Ava Messinger Music was the principal feature of th' evening" Miss Messinger delighted her guests with several harp selection' Refreshments were served. Those pres ent were Miss Adele Hauxhurst, Mis- Cavanaugh, Miss Messinger, MT. Sirch MT. Gregory, MT. Armstrong, MT. Han sen and Dr. Messenger.
 Miss Halsey entertained Mrs. Buck ley and her Sunday school class Thurs day evening at her residence
 Y,lo