The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1898-10-02


p. y y sun shines just warmly enough
and the winds are temperate tc
meet all the fall costumes which miIady
now wears. If Easter calls for a new
%. gown, October calls for one none the
less; and the dresses of autumn are quite
as beautiful and as novel as those of
spring.
It may be said that where a separate
waist. is worn the waist will be plaid
This is an almost universal rule 1t is
a common sight to see a plain black
brown, green or blue skirt trimmed onlv
by regulation trimmings, worn with a
glaring waist Of most brilliant plaid de-
sign.
These waists are now and then made
of plaid silk, but more often of cloth,
for 1t must be acknowledged that the
cloth holds its color better than silk
and can be worn to better advantage.
There is something so fitting about a
cloth dress for the street that most wo-
men much prefer it to silk.
The colors in these plaids are red,
plue, green, pink, and 1 might almost
say the eolors OF the spectrum. violet,
red. for all of these colors are seen in
: the brilliant autumn plaids.
PIald waists are as a rule, untrimmed,
although they may have very fancy
Iapels. tall, high collar is worn with
them and brilliant necktie Striped
neckties are seen with bright plaid
street the other day Of green and black
and red stripe, worn with a waist Of
green and black and red plaid. AS long
as the waist and necktie are arttstically
worn together q woman need NOT fear
what colors she combines, for every color
checks and plaids. -''''
We'll remember a talk which I had
with Denrnan Thompson in the parIo~
OF saratoga hotel four years ago 1t
was Inc season when women We're wear
ing skirts which trailed upOn the
ground and the womens societies were
busy trying to conVice the women how
u4san1tary these skirts were.
The writer, with the actor stood in the
doorway OF one Of the immense parlors
q paiace motel. while the elegantly
dressed women passed through on their
way to- the dining room.
Look at that skirt" exclaimed Mr..
thompson d.3l. ssf, pointing to long dress of
navy bIue satin which swept the floor
py half yard That IS not intended for
an; evening dress nor even house dress:
II II Is Is a street dress and if you will notice
- - ,coEered with dust a finger deep from
!l ne, Fem Mark my words, that fashion
VIII not last long. Bustes went out be-
ifo 1850 my were irrational, so Will the
~ like natural things" continued he.
oudI IS the secret Of my pIaying-it Is
II .3 III Look at the skirts" pointing to
~9Ihers there were sweeping into the room
also duSt-covered. They gather ali ~
hlIn 90, OF the streets; they cannot be fash
1T thought Of the words of the veteran
e eoI ana philosopher the following sea
So. TnSn the skirts were cut off and
anu l, woH9ered II women were convinced
as &c SAID they We're, of the irre tioyoi
qga 1f n0 OF the oi long trailing costume.
IN again The skirt miladv Vs. i - -
tafnly does sweep the street If does rSi+
train by a foot as 1t did four wears 90
but 1t is long enough to gather all ~!
dust:of the paVements and the mud Of The
crossings. N VI Ihe
Paris mOdfstes, when taxed ,1non +bo
subject OF setting the fashions by display
4 .hs Iong skirts In their windows defended
themselves by saying that these long
SKIRTS are meant only for carriage coeo
tunes. They add that all their Customers
ana patrons are carriage people" and
display carriage dresses in the windows.
But" asked the questioner to whom
9 ms was explained, what do you advise
TOT the rest of the World?"
4 advise the short skirt" said the mo-
G us, unhesitatingly,. for the street. No
woman Of taste VIII ever consent to
sweep the. street with her dress"
ce many Of the new dresses, however, do
SO long that they touch all the way
around, and, more's the pity, very nice
expensive trimming surrounds the foot.
saw one dress which was certainly
was very lovely. 1t was worn on one
Oh the frosty days of September. It's
material, was a very light broadcloth,
almost light enough to be called ladies'
was made in polonaise shape with the
'front.' slit almost TO the waist. Around
the border there was a broad band Of
steel gray silk which combined very
Drettiiy with the blue. The rest of the
polonaise was trimmed in the same way,
with bands of the steel gray silk reach
ING almost UP to the waist.
This polonaise was worn over a skirt