The times., 1898-01-23
A Silk sailar Shirt the Very
Latest C0mceif.
RUSSIAN BLOUSE CONDEMNED
The Horoscope of the Hat-The
t,ajfl~aot-ough Must share Honors
With the 0ld-Fashioned Poke
The New wrap Combination OF
Fur, Ribbons and Chiffon.

IfOfn the latl liiel II Is uTeSSy enough
for the matinee or even an informal
dance. The waist proper is made of a
plaid or striped silk, and is merely a
sailor blouse cut V-sllped in front
with silk faced reyers turning back
from it. The rest of the bodice is
nothing more nor less than silk
bosom OF plain silk To harmonic with
the leading tint in the plaid. The shirt
bosom is attached To stock collar OF
folded silk with points turning down
under each ear There is a small bow
tie of plain silk 10 complete the shirt
front effect The sleeves are not the
kind which usually go with shirt
waists. but have a couple OF puffs or
shirrinEs at the top. ard Lave turned
back cuffs OF plain siiS AT the wrist =
This waist is enc of he simplest sar
mentS in the world, and almest any
body could make it. only remembering
TO use plain silk in the shirt bosom AMI
collar, in facing of the revers and on
the cuffs. Pale blue with fine black
crossbars is very pretty for evening.
The heiiotrope plaids are also becoming
Il those who can wear them. One Of
the most stunning in the whole eXhibi-
tion was a black and white stripe wi,h
pale blue facings.
Woman's headgear is always 4 relia-
BILE indication of the exact time of
year She Will wear her winter hat
right UP TO the very last day of the
year and never think of its being shah
by; but the next day IT VIII not be fit
to wear. and she w;ll have il t. pee. s
then and there, changing the arrange
ment of the trimming or substituting
new, and always finishing with j little
bunch of flowers as an indication that
the backbone of winter is about broken,
and that spring viii soon be here.
Milliners do the same thing with the
hats they have in stock. 1t fraShenS
up the shop-worn headgear and looks
pretty in the window. If there Is no
where else TO put the little bunca of
flowers. il can always be tucked under
the brim near the back just over the
hair.
Box parties abound in demure look
ing maidens in poke bonnets-they are
not allowed out of boxes. The daintiest
Priscilla in the theater last night
blushed and smiled from beneath
wide, black velvet poke, with violets
resting against her hair More Violets
leaned over at one side, white feathers
peeped over the top, and the whole
splendid array was fastened in place
by white null ties that knotted in n
big bow under her chin.
Flowers are even more common on
street hats than they are on evening
bonnets A velvet toque with wings is
frightened with a bunch of red roses.
A Gainsbor0ugh with feathers has
sprays of cyclamen.
Breasts Of ducks and other large
birds are used in pairs with a buckle to
join them in front
An exquisite cerise velvet hat for the
-, -. i
white osprey. Yellow roses enter into
much of the after-hcliday millinery.
Many milliners remove the jeweled
buckles which have done duty as ban
deaus on those hats with the Victorian
fare. and substitute wreaths or bunch
es of flowers.
A black velvet toque with wings and
velvet loops looks fresh and spring like
with the addition Of a bunch of clevers.
Flowers as trimming for evening
dresses are still the favorite, and muffs
look less wintry for the addition of the
same bright promises of spring In
short, blossoms pervade all depart
ments of woman's wearing apparel,
and one is not up to date without
them.
Some girls have begun to set wings
at the sides of their Tyrolese hats, just
for variety, but trimming is hardly an
Improvement to such distinctively
knockabout headgear.
Violet and castor is the newest COM
bination. Sarah Bernhardt is said to
be responsible for it, having started
the fashion by appearing in a long cas-
tor cloak with a violet hat. Madame
Bernhardt is fond of making new COM
binations with violet which seems to
be her favorite color. She usually
chooses the most daring combination
possible and by looking perfectly raw
ishing in il herself induces others to
try the same thing. Violet and pale
blue, which she started some years ago,
has now become a too common COM
bination to please her exclusive fancy,
and she has hence branched out in an
other direction.
The Russian blouse, which has been
condemned to die before spring, as an
article Of womans apparel, has found
a refuge as a fashionable garment for
small boys. They have sailor collars
and are given blouse effect by means
of leather belts, and carry out the
leather scheme. Tam O'Shanters to
wear with them are also made of
leather.
The newest coats imported from
Paris are plain, double breasted, and
tight fitting. Perhaps there may be a
reaction from the over-trimming which
is emptyfng purses and driving. dress
makers to the lunatic asylum.
Here is a suggestion for combina-
ton of summer and winter wraps
which may be useful to some one who
happens to have similar articles to
combine. The idea is that Of a young
woman who had an old-fashioned fur
cape, and a chiffon coilarette left over
from last summer. BY turning the fur
ry side in for a lining. and sewing on
the chiffon collarette as trimming, she
produced a wrap which was warm in
side and stylish on the outside The
fur edge turned back to form collar
and lapels that reached below the
waist This left the front open, and
to fill the gap, she made a pouched
vest of black satin, padded with wad-
ding. and trimmed with fiounees of
chiffon. Black satin bows on the lap
els wits a strap of ribbon across the
front to Join them held the cape in
place. and the resplt was combina-
ton of beauty. utility, and economy
that was most gratifying
From winter capes to summer gauZe
is sudden transition, but that is ex-
actly the trend of affairs in most New
York shops. You can buy fur capes at
bargain on one counter then turn
and pay exorbitant prices for the first
importations of nimsy stuffs that look
even more fiinsy by force Of contrast.
THE newest organdie and the prettiest
yet displayed has a purple fleurde-lis
on white. ground. The flower is life
size and almost life color-a most re-
markable feat in the manipulation of
dyes.
YOUTH COMES AGAIN.
Women's Gray Hair to Be Turned
Black and Wrinkles nSanrear