The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1898-11-20


ecribed it as the Venice Of the East"
but to the Americans with up-to-date
ideas as to santa and order and
regularity, it is neither. 1t is almost
any one of the largest South or Cen
trail American cities done over again
with a dash Of the Oriental. 1t boasts
OF stately edifices, beautiful churc es
imposing dOmlS and spires, handsome
residences and Attractive bridges, yet
its streets are narrow and dirty, its
buildings are nearly all dark and damp.
Decay has laid its hand upon much o
the work of tie mas n, and the uncle2n
Cinnamon ard natives rave worked
their way to the very heart of the
city. The East has progress since the
middle of the century, and boasts hale
q dozen modern, clean, Well-lighte
cities, yet Manila, with a wealth e
resources and boundless natural back
ing, has not kept up with the van.
There are telephones, credftable cleo
tric light works ard an exec, ent sup
ply of water. but they encompass about
all that is modern IN the city.
The Spaniard assures you that he
has rot built sewers because the ealtl-
Quakes would Destroy them, but the IN
clination is to lay the blame TO neglect,
and not to obstacles. Manila III the
hands of a progressive people could
have been made truly beautiful place.
The fertile soil stands ready to III ow
forth every plant that thrives near the
equator. The PaSig river, with its
swift-running current, offers perfect
drainage and excellent transportation.
The branches of the river sweep both
north and south ard extend the oppor-
tun.ty for y Owe. I. The surroUn l.
ings are nearly all attractive, and ne
landscape is backed by a beautiful
range OF mountains. The opportuni-
ties of the city have been bound-e-s,
yet the Spaniard has been content to
go on in his lazy way, and but little
has been accomplished. If all that Is
beautiful, attractive and imposing IN
Manila and its suburbs could be groi p
ed together and the foul-smellng dens
of the Cinnamon and the struggling
nfpa huts of the natives excluded,
streets Widened and strai ghtened and
cleanliness and progIess take the place
of neglect nj C y, this capital would
count among the Interesting cities Oh
the world.
The capital Of the Philippines is not,
however without It's interesting places
and beautiful spots. To the &C nquerlng
American army the ancient walled city
held the greatest inteIe est. To cross an
old moat and enter through a time
honored portculls was like stepping
into another age. Here was con-
Meeting link with medieval days and
feudal lords, and, if a string Of valiant
knights IN mail and armor had come
forth to measure steel with the in
vaders. there would have been but lit
tie room for surprise, The old city is
still the city Of Legaspi The breaches
in the falls made by the onslaughts Of
former invaders, and the destruction
wrought by earthquakes that have
come in the ages since he lived and
built have been repaired. The old
brass cannon, antiquated and aban-
dcned a century ago by nations skilled
In war still peer forth from the bat
Elements Brass mortars that were
cast when Washington was at Valley
Fore still rest in their places on the
rampSrts. In the arsenal are still
the battle axes tHat have been effete
and useless since gunpowder came in.
The city was not without It's modern
Gefenseg. yet Legaspi's old monument
to colonization still stands like the
specS-r Of another age. The metes and
bounds which Legaspi laid down have
long since ceased to meet the needs
of growth and the commercial man
ana trader has been forced outside the
WaIA.
The old city is given over almost ex-
clUsiVely TO official residences and re-
Lglous institutions 1t is entirely wall
ed in with massive heaps of stone that
seem in their strength and solidity able
TO defy many ages to come. Stone en-
Hrs very largely into the construction
OF the entire settlement, for practically
every structure ANllltln II Is or tnat ma
terial. THE observatory. conducted
here by the Jesuit fathers, places the
average earthquakes on this island at
thirteen per annum. Luzon is also the
center Of the typhoon region, and the
builders Of this city had not only to
guard against the commissions in the
earth below, but the fierce disturbances
In the heavens above Earthquakes
have rocked the foundations of the
Surrey old town and the elements have
ragged and Stormed about its roofs, but
ii has held out against them all. The
builders have been forced to make re-
pairs in the wake of tumbler and
storm, and from the experience of the
ages there has grown a renaissance
OF earthquake architecture and with
repairs and changes and improvements
the city is fairly well prepared for the
worst commissions of nature
The narrow streets of the inclosed
city oiter interesting walks TO the stu
dent of history. the artist and the trav-
eler. II the dugeons under the walls
Or the council chambers of state high
up in the palace of the governor gem
Rral could speak, their would be an in
leresting tale. The dishonest agents of
Spain sent here TO rule the lucl1less ma
lives have apparently not scrupled at
my crime to grind money from the I'M
represented taxpayer, to stifle progress
ana TO keen millions OF fairly intelli-
gent people secluded from the world.
Those moss-coVered battlsments have
been stermed before from without, and
there has been intrigue and treason
ard rebellion from within. AS they Of
tered a haven TO the weeping Spanish
women and children two weeks aso.
SC have they offered a haven in the
past to all Spaniards when outraged
natives and Chinese swarmed through
the city, prepared TO murder TO aVenge
their wrongs. The greatest length of
the walks is along the water front, and
they extend there from the banks of
the Pasig TO the suburb of Ermita On
the north side the walls follow the river
to the bridge Of Spain. which spans
the muddy but rapid stream, and con-
meets the Manila of old with the COM
paratively modern Binondo. From the
extreme northeastern corner OF the
walls they slope gradually south and
west TO the southwestern corner, close
tc the water front There are nine or
ten entrances TO the walled city, but all
OF them are not in use.
The most interesting points within
the walls are the palace of the governor
general and the palace of the Roman
Catholic archbishop. The former stands
on Gale del Gahildo, and occupies prac-
tically an entire block. 1t is two sto-
ries in height, and its exterior is I'M
imposing. 1t is upon Its interior that
we alth has been laVished. A small
portico and plain columns mark the
entrance. The immense VeStibule is a
checker board OF black and white mar
BILE. and the main staircase which is OF
teak. rises from the center and rear of
It A dozen broad, wide steps bring
you TO another VeStibule, and the vice