The record-union., 1898-09-29

In moment for the Russians move
quickly when they do move) we were
whirling off to the Hotel d dEurope in
two queer, little vehicles called
'iswoschtschik, driven bys two lit
tie men made enormous by their large
blue flowing robes with pillow-like
paddings, in spite of the warm sum-
mer weather. About their huge waists
We're bright red embroidered belts,
forming a brilliant contrast with the
somber blue of the vast robe. The
scraggly little horses fairly flew, and
on the way we caught sight of church
spires and domes and many an intoxi-
Gated fellow vending his weary way
homeward.
Immediately after taking our hotel
rooms our passports were demanded.
We We're delighted to make use OF
the lumbrous things after the two
years of useless carrying them about
with us into Austria, Italy, France,
Switzerland, Belgium and Holland. The
clerk had no sooner disappeared than
in came a great red apparition, bring
ing with him our luggage His hair
was red, his beard was red, and his
shirt was red silk embroidered in green
ing as he came, and we never saw
him afterwards, except down in the en-
| trance hall guarding trunks and wait
ing for tips with many of his brethren
Since then l have noticed that every
where the laborers wear these bright
| red shirts, extending almost to the
knees, outside their trousers.
Except for the garments of the work
! <tNI nsafN
of the nurse of the boy baby, and the
bright blue of the nurse of the girl
baby, the colors of the Russian Capital
are not happily chosen. Building after
building is of a sickening gray-yellow
tint, and many are red, but the red
is dark and meagerly saturated.
The Newsky Prospect, the corso of
the city, was at first very disappoint-
ing. The fine shops are almost all in
the upper etages, and those on the
ground floor display their goods so
modestly that the street has little of
the attractive brilliancy that makes
those of Paris SO fascinating. But soon
after our arrival the Car and Czarina
returned, followed by the nobility and
| wealthy class, SO beautiful carriages
and handsomely gowned women made
| the Newsby appear at its best again.
One morning after breakfast we
strolled into the Kasanche Kathedrale,
| the half-circular collonade of which is
a miniature copy of that of ST. Peters
at Rome. We found service in pro-
| gress, and nothing but a mass of tire
some gilt and gold catching our haSty
! glance, we decided to postpone our
visit for another time, so we turned
to leave. Just then great crowds of
men, women and children came rush
ing in. their eyes staring wildly and
their faces pale with excitement. We
We're frightened into fright and our
hearts sank as we saw armed officers
| holding the doors closed against the
| crowd.
But we did not stay our steps, and
rushed madly to the entrance to force
| our way out, when, much to our as
| tonishment, the guards opened the
| doors for US, at the same time ordering
back those trying to enter. Not having
noticed that the general striving was to
enter, rather than to go out, we ex-
planned our happy exit by our having
been mistaken for people of import
ance. Fear having been supplanted by
| vanity, we could look about less diZ-
zily.
| AT once everything was explained,
for the large bronze doors of the main
entrance stood open, ana the Car and
| Czar1na We're going into the house of
| worship. On both sides of the entrance
| stood masses of people watching. We
We're soon in the thickest of the crowd.
Just back Of US stood, trembling with
| excitement, the little woman all in
| black whose business it is to stand
and ask for aims at the cathedral en-
trance, but who had left her place to
crafty an earthly curiosity.
Opposite We're three American girls
on tip-toe, gazing with deepest interest,
| their red Murrysr in their hands (Bae-
| decker publishes no English guide
book for Russia). The young Emperor
| and his English German wife passed
in, and in less than two minutes came
out again.
As they walked by we saw them
we'll. He was dressed in a ColonePs
uniform, and she in a plain but beau
tiful tailor gown. He seemed youthful.
affable and kindly, perhaps a little
weak. She was cold and composed.
with a gentle German face and an erect
English carriage. altogether attractive,
but seeming scarcely an Empress AS
they drove away a hearty, rumbling
cheer rose from the Russian crowd.
We lost no time in visiting the
Eremitage. This is one of the most
beautiful galleries we have seem. All
the important schools of painting. with
the exception of the German, are well
represented.
OF the old Italian school there is only
one by Landro Boticelli, but of later
times there are Raphael's Madonna
Alba" his Madonna Connestabili," a
tiny gem perfect in every detail. his
Saint George and several others \
Madonna, supposed to be by Leonardo
da Vinci, is of greatest beauty, the col
ors as brilliantly fresh as if il Were
painted yesterday.
In no other gallery, unless 1t be al
Madrid, could one see Murillo to better
advantage His picture of the holy
family, painted on wood, is a master
piece Of conception and composition
light and shade and mingling of dark
rich colors In it the Madonna is nc
sweet, pretty child as are so many OF
Murillo's Madonnas. but, rather a wo.
man inspired with holy, as we'll as
earthly love
Rubens, as might be expected, ha6
his lion share of pictures in the gallery
One only, ascribed to Van Dyk, but
probably the work of Rubens, a portrait
OF Rubens' first wife is worthy OF
much attention. Here the fair lady i.
dressed in black, with large blacl
hat her head and he loolyc ont ~