Herald and news. [volume] (West Randolph, Vt.) 1878-1943, 1898-09-29
My Dear Kate:

Somebody has said that it IN just as
well to have friends as 1t is to be rich,
and find it so in my profession of teach
ing the young women how TO cook
had several applications Tor recipes for
cooking game and also several sug-
gestions and pointers. when along comes
a letter from my friend Role and fur
nishes just what you and others asked
for l send it along in full, and lnall
with you wait impatiently for the second
chapter which he promises.
Yours culinarily,
Comfort Jones,
Doctor of Cookery.
My Dear Doctor:
This is the season of game in New
England and the east. OF course you
can get game in the big cities all win
ter, but just now is when husband and
father takes down his gun and goes out
to destroy the wearers Of fur and feath
ers. You, in the house, should be able
to second the efforts OF the masculine
members of the family by serving up
the game in an appetizing manner.
Novices in game cooking otter make
a sad mess of their first attempt largely
because they try to do too much. Let
us begin at the beginning and work up
TO the more elaborate dishes First take
the birds you are likely to have to deal
with. The most common northern game
birds are the duck, partridge, or ruffied
grouse quail and woodcock. When
they, either of them, reach the kitchen
the first question to be solved Is whether
they are young or old BIRDS for If old
they must be parboiled. This is par
ticularly true of partridge and ducks.
We will assume that you have brace
of old cartridges and will try and aid
you in preparing them for the table in
one of the simplest and best ways
known. Your dish is known as Par
fridge. Hunters Style" and this is the
recipe:
Place the birds in a kettle of lukewarm
water in which you also put an onion
and two or three potatoes, pared and
cut in quarters. Place the kettle over
a slow fire, so 1t will boil slowly. and at
the end of half an hour remove the po-
tatoes. Continue to slowly boil the par
fridge until tender and then remove and
place in hot spider with little butter
and brown quickly. For sauce shake
some flour into the butter remaining in
the spider after the game is removed,
and gradually, as it browns, add enough
of the liquor in which the birds were
boiled TO give 1t the required thickness
Pour sauce over the meat, garnish with
chopped parsley and serve very hot.
Woodcock and quail may be cooked in
the same way with the best of results
Professional cooks sometimes use olive
oil instead of butter in the spider but
you will use butter with better success
at first
Now one word of explanation. You
will probably ask: Why do you put
potatoes and onions in the pot when
parboiling? AS this is often done with
all kinds of game one explanation will
cover the entire subject. Some birds
notably wild ducks. geese, coot and
looms, have a strong taste, wild game
taste that is sometimes objectionable
The same is true of venison, bear, coon
squirrels and other wild meat. If you
parboil with potatoes and onions the
strong flavor goes largely into the vege-
tables, which you remove and throw
away, and only the delicate and pleas
ing "gamey'' taste is left.
If you have young game that you do not
wish to parDOil and it has been kept I'M
til 1t is too ''gamey," good way to make
ii sweet is to thoroughly rinse it in water
in which you have dissolved saleratus
in the ratio of a teaspoonful OF salera-
tus to quart of water. While on Hunt
ers' style OF cooking may as we'll give
you a recipe for the onion" stuffing
used in preparing game for roasting.
Parboil medium sized onions for 10 min
utes; take out in a colander and drain
thoroughly. Then season well with salt
and pepper and liberal pieces of butter,
and stun the game as with bread stufing.
You may add sage to the onions or not,
as your taste dictates.
II roasting game that has been par
boiled be careful and have a quick or
hot oven. as long cooking win make the
roast dry and tasteless Always lard
partridges when intended for roasting,
as otherwise they will be too dry even
when cooked quickly.
But am spinning this out to too great
a length, and must leave the treatment
OF venison, rabbits and other four-foot-
ed game for another letter We will then
try and make a game stew, the finest Of |
all game dishes Finest because you can
snclude variety of game. and like all
dishes Of that kind it is better when
warmed over. as the saying goes.
Respectfully vourS