The age-herald., 1898-08-20

NINA G0ODWIN'S
 FASHION LETTER

Paris Aug. 15.-During these warm Au- gust mornings when one is going the rounds of thte shops to keep in close touch with Dame Fashions latest moves, it gives one quite a surprise to get a first glimpse of the windows that contain gowns for fall
 They are all piled high with great bolts of the warmest looking cheviots and tweeds that have a wholesome durable '"fruly British air.
 By way of explanation for this seeming unseaSonableness the bolts of cloth are all placarded flor mountain gowns" The gray brown shades, the red browns and the olive browns are very much in evidence. The gray greens too come in for little share of popularity but blue, the old sub stantial navy blue, is conspicuous by it's absence. It is woven, however, in pretty effective way with brown or green.
 There have ben so many changes in the cut of jackets and coats this summer that women have deferred the making of their mountain gowns to the last moment for fear fthe style being a bit out of date.
 gown made of dark drab cheviot, wov- en with a narrow waving stripe in navy blue aw very chic. The short full gored skirt reached to the shoe tops. It fitted close over the hips and the fullness at the back was laid in two small underlapping plaits.
 The jacket was an Eton affair reaching to the waist line at the back and at the front two rounding points reached several inches below teh narrow leather belt. It had re- vers of blue cloth cut in rounding scallops and bound with narrow strips of pierced leather in the same shade of drab as the cloth. It continued around the edge of the entire jacket. The sleeves were ordinary close fitting jacket sleeves finished at the hand with two straps of the leather ar to &giye the effect of pointed cuff. .9
 Tba- Ittons tora ,,,rob u,orr ara -;t ,,,,,s+ be confessed that they make the figure very youthful.
 A gown of tan and brown checked tweed was very simple. The skirt was arranged with four big fiat box plaits that were stitched down fiat as far as the knees. From there they were allowed to flare, giv- ing ample fitness to the skirt.
 The jacket was built rather on the lines of mans cutaway coat, fitting close into the figure at the back, with a straight dart less front. It buttoned in single breasted fashion with row of big dark brown pearl buttons.
 The rounded revers were a sort of con- tinuation of the high medicis collar that was of plain tan cloth. A narrow strip of the tan cloth outlined the edges of the coat. It was bordered at either side with dark brown braid that continued around the revers and collar. The sleeves were ordinary sized jacket sleeves with a braid- ed band of the tan cloth giving a finish to the bottoms.
 The advantages of leather trimmings are many. Though expensive at first leather used as trimming never wears out. A pair of good tan leather cuffs can be used upon tailor-made gown year after year. Chamois skin is delightful for vests. It is made up open worked and embroidered and ideal. The first cost of leather is, however, such that few purchase it. Women, though who prefer durable articles to showy ones, like to lay in stock of good leather trim mings as they lay in stock of lace.
 A gown of thyme green cheviot was very attractively trimmed with ehamois and narrow leather strips of the same shade of green.
 The skirt was made close fitting over the hips with the fulness at the back gathered into the waist band. It was trimmed around the bottom with strip of chamois that mounted both seams of the apron and ended in points at the knees. Either edge of the channels were trimmed around with narrow bands of pierced green leather.
 The jacket was cut with short close fit- ting pointed basques. It turned back In narrow revers that were faced with cham ols and trimmed with strips of the pierced leather. From under the revers there ex- tended tabs of chamois embroidered with thyme green soutache and strapped down to the belt with narrow strips or green leather. These almost met over the plain chamois vest The sleeves were pialn close fitting jacket sleeves.
 Quite the dressiest mountain gown have seen. was built of tweed in mixed shades ftan and dark brown The skirt was slashed to show an underskrt of solid dark brown cloth At the top of each slash there were short pointed leather straps holding the material in place.
 The corsage had the effect of a short jacket over a shirt waist, though in reali- ty it was all made in one piece. The yoke was of solid tan cloth and the mixed goods turned back from it in pointed revers that were faced with brown cloth an dclosely stitched.
 Over the shoulders there were three mar TOW straps of the mixed goods that seemed to hold the square necked jacket in place. The corsage was cut short and round at the back and at the front 1t fell over the belt in two points. Short straps of leath- CT were attached to the bottom of the cor sage over rows of dark brown buttons. This made 1t possible for the dress to be looped higher required. The sleeves were made of the tweed with tops of the plain tan goods. They turned back from the tops in tiny pointed revers that were faced with the solid brown cloth.