The times., 1898-07-10
THE REBAOF THE BLACK HAT
Ii Can BE GaiIy Diversified With
Flower Combs.
VELVET THROAT BANIlS
Br4gHre of Bewitcbing Wells That
That Are Deadly to Both Eyes and
skin -tsenexa Stocks of snowy
Muslin Are Captivating Novelties.
Dainty Lingerie.

New York. July S.-What a fascinating
charm there is about a black hat. This
artistic truth and the economy of il is
getting home to the hearts of many wo-
men this Summer. If you are only permit
ted Two hats per season. always let one of
those be black, and if one chapeau is all
your circumstances allow. every oaree or
six months, then be wise and choose it
black A black hat is like charity-it coy
ers such a multitude OF little sins of
omission and commission in dress and 1t
is always distinguished looking and be-
coming The long-headed woman, who
shops with diplomacy, orders her hat all
black and dashes in whatever color she
prefers 10 the comb of flowers underneath
the rear brim. Now, if you drop in at
any progressive millinery studio just now
you viii find for sale many Of these combs
of roses. violets, etc, all prepared, 10
either pin on your hair before your hat
goes on, or tack TO the back OF the hat
with a few stitches.
Here We have great convenience. for
Ii Is not every amateur milllner VINO
knows how 10 work up a floral comb or
cache piegue with the proper neatness
SDG SkiiA. ana II II on LIlt llAAit llllaStliit5
touches that a hat depends for its chic
expression and air of tidy completeness
Let a word be said here with regard
to veilimgs The counters this summer
offer many temptations 10 a woman,
to buy at haste and repent at leisure.
over the ring-str.aked and striped tis-
sues that fiutter before her eyes. There
is really pretty whim in the way Of
shot yelling. that goes right TO the
s1- Er~fafF
showing dots in groups. and smart
twtne brown gauZe, that has a white
waving cord run through its width
from selvage to selYage All these.
however. should be admired from a re-
spectful distance. Only the very young
girls with strong eyes. can wear them
with impuniUy.
After her twenty-fifth birthday a wOm-
an should buy her wells thoughtfully,
and matrous can scarcely be too pains
taking in this respect. Nothing so con-
tributes 10 the weaving Of little wrin-
kles about the eyes as a veil with many
and small spots. A constant though
unconscious efort, is being made by the
human lenses TO get proper focus
through such a speckled mist and by
reason of S.eady contraction of muscles
provoked about the lids the cobwebby
tracings are penciled in.
Put a pair Of the most lustrous eyes
constantly behind a veil of chiffon
thickness. and the result will be slow
but none the less sure extinction Of
that liquid bright quality a healthy
pair Of orbs should possess, even 10 old
age. A woman who persists in wear
ing a dotted net veil under one of chif-
fon. as so many do. is simply running
her complexion. and she who continues
long in this pernicious habit may ward
of few freckles while she is simply
cOur ing pink ruins on her lids. and a
dun glaze on both pupil and iris.
Too many women buy the first good
and inexpensive veil that is offered, with
a reckless indifference as to whether
color spot or mesh Is becoming. face
that smiles delightfully."- from behind a
delicate black gauze. bearing a dot here
and there viii look Old and haggard un-
der a Russian net heavily treated with
chenille balls. This phase Of the veil
situation ought 10 be by every wise soul
studied out before mirror and more
over few women are aware that certain
hats 60 with certain wells and vice versa.
Beware of using your cycling hat veil
with your best bonnet. for by such ma
neUvers IS beauty judged.
As 10 the adjustment Of the little face
uasque. lei IL be known that bow az
rhe back must be avoided. Draw the
tissue terminals into the smallest posi-
bic knot and tuck that neatly out Of
sight Never let fluffy ends of net hang
out behind like signals Of distress, and
as you value your reputation for youth
ful beauty, don't roll your veil up in an
unlOvely band across your brow. Rather
remove il entirely, II you wish to read OF
eat anything, for that band across the
brow. or worse still athwart the nose
ADDS an instant weight of ten moons 20
any age
This Is the time when the willy shop
keepers advertise bargains in underwear
and coax the women into one-day expe-
ditiOns in town The expeditions are
profitable from every point of view. and
there is a deal Of very well dignified fash
ion displayed at these exhibits OF fine
underwear. White lawn. linen and cam
brio unGerskirts are, many Of them made
with quite respectable trains, for wear
under the lOng-tailed dresses now in the
style.
II is noticeable that a quota of the
skirts are trimmed with Spanish fiounces
or cut on the Louis XIV mode and fairly
crimped with tiny ruffies. Some of these
pettcOats have castings set in about the
region Of the pocket hole and through
these long whalebOnes are run. The mis-
sion OF this appliance is obviously thar OF
distending slightly the rear Of the skirt
hustle wise. Skirts set onto very deep
yokes are everywhere in evidence. The
yOkes run down far over the hip and are
often made of solid embroidery.
The unusual length of the night dresses
are impressive. They are as long as the
old-style riding skirts for women used Il
be, but IN this case the superfiuity ot
material adds greatly to the wearer's
comfort. for In a short night dress a wo.
man is as graceless and uncomfortable &
creature as can be found. Occasionally
the foot Of these long gowns is prettHy
embroidered in scallOps and contrary wise
the sleeves of these lengthy robes are
rarely cut below the elbow.
Ii is only by grace OF the slender and
conservative woman that that com.
mendable garment. the chemise is any
thing more than d tradition in lingerie
A deadly blow was dealt at its exist
ence by the introduction or the lawn
combination. low-necked, loose body and
fun drawers There are commendab bic
points about this bit of raiment and il
can be made pretty to the last degree
one OF the most attractive fancies is
that Of joining drawers and waist to-
gether by means of a wide beading
through which a broad ribbon runs. or
yOking the upper and lower parts to-
Eether with a deep embroidery girdle
shaped 10 the figure
No one seems prepared TO say why
but certain it is that the major portion
of fne underwear is mace up of pale
yellow silk and of cambria in the tint
known as rattan yellow. Deeply tinged
lace and gay golden ribbons deck these
expensive trifies, and the mode now /.
10 wear white embroidered stays A
complete bridal set for example include:
pale-yellow stays. of a thin, strong linen
that is powdered over with daisies ol
whatever flower adorns the other gar