Omaha daily bee., 1898-06-19
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON.
Details of Correct Mourning-Dnm-
asked Linens Popular.

mourning TO n state WHcTt COuIhoh SNh"N
and beauty unite to rob the black garments
OF half their injury and ugliness. Except IN
the first weeks of their bereavement a wife
or mother can, especially in this summer
time, almost brighten into cheerfulness the
heaviest black. merely by the amount oil
white now permitted about the suits OF woe
A white lisse cap and white net veil, a white
muslin tucker and folded collar and shirred
white cuffs to the elbow give even a widow
grief a pleasing background.
Taleta silk. with what is called a dead
finish, Is the most modlsh fabric for a sum
mer mourning dress. English crepe has alb
solutely been relegated to winter wear
among mourners, the long face veil is worn
only at a funeral and the broad crepe border
has been removed from the small black net
masque that is sometimes adopted with a
bonnet. A rather heavy net was at one time
tho customary material for these little face
protectors. but with the coming of warm
weather no small veil at all is worn.
Milliners have been trying the effect OF a
very light silky tclle bordered by a double
row of chenille dots, and women whose hair
cannot be controlled without a veil wear
such a protector. AS to the long rear veil,
for summer time, black Brussels net Is the
thing. 1t is cut to fall clear to the dress
hem, rounded UP on the sides and bordered
with English crepe for an inch, having a
narrow fold of crepe inside of that.
Such a drapery is cool. light in weight
and very impressive, and the bonnets from
which these wells hang are tall, small and
nearly always touched with white. This
change in custom has come about through
the promulgation of an edict in favor of
young unmarried women wearing yelled
b%onnets. A woman over Is now wears a
bonnet and veil for a parent, or sister, or
brother.
In case OF the loss of a parent the crepe
bordered veil of net falls behind clear to
the dress hem. For a sister or brother the
veil is not crepe bordered, and hangs only
to the knees The little bonnet from which
1t depends is usually just a tuft of black
and white roses having bird wings or wired
net pieces outstanding and delicately pow
dered with the new lusterless ~paiettes that
are scarcely larger than pin heads. There
is a tone of cheerful resignation about all
these young women bonnets that recon-
mends them highly, and as few faces can
quite endure the dull black browning of silk
and crepe, the widows have lately adopted
more white than ever in their yelled caps.
Silk crepe de chine, a handsome material
called unburnished black poplin, black
caucasienne and black linen and duck are
prime favorites in the list of novel mourn
Ing BOOuS. lneSe are one anu All IL very
airy texture or are woven loosely, and for
the second stage Of mourning are made
over white underdresses.
Second Mourning.
Smart second mourning tailor suits are
made of black poplin and decorated with a
braid in which black and white threads
show in sharp contrasts Braid is used
largely in place of beading. and the usual
crepe bands on suits for full mourning, while
the tea gowns, dressing sacques. under pet
ticoats and muslins for women to wear in
doors are ~prettily trimmed with a pure
white footing in place of lace.
Latterly there has come into the market
q hideous but none the less highly estimated
creped leather used in the makeup OF purses
and card cases for the bereaved. 1t is hand,
somely mounted with gun metal, and is
actually a fine kid skin put through a pro-
cess that gives it the appearance of English
crepe.
Something to be unreservedly recon-
mended is the mourning parasol of deat
finished taffeta, tucked in fantastic lines ant
fitted with a rather long stick of prettil!
carved lakewood. No frills and furbelow.
appear on these correct sunshades. though
number of them are lined with black or
soft tone OF gray chiffon that softens then
as a background for the face.
1t is always with the woman in mourning
a serious problem how most comfortably an'
tastefuily to prepare her wardrobe of wasl
gowns,
Black linen, that washes safely as a tel
cup, black linen grenodine and black piqu
are all at her disposal, besides black lawn
and muslins. There is in addition to thes
goods a black cotton crepe on the marke
that ought to receive a great deal of en-
thustaafic attention and the mourning rib
bons in both black and white are a tempta
ton to any woman. Those woven on wha
is called the crumb grain are rough sur
faced, dull finished, and thick and rich a
leather. They are meant for belts, etc.
There is no passing without remark tn
white armure saw-edged millinery ribbo
This has a waving border that appears to b
finished with an embroidery but on hol
stitch and if a new importation.
The whims of Fashion.
Over in Paris. where the needle Of fashio
is never true to any one pole. the hats &c
one season pitched dow well over the fac
are about to be rolled up and back. In du
course we will naturally follow this lea'
and forewarned Is forearmed; but for tt
next six months every woman can wear hs
wide-eayed straw with an easy mind, for
takes that loag for a new fashion to get ov'
TO US.
Now that the first great rush Of wardrot
replenishing is over, one has time to no
the pretty whims Of this mode. some
which are striking and coquettishly becon
ing. For example, at the ends OF the ril
Of the carriage parasols the wires there
put forth markedly a full inch, are silyer'
or gilded. and each rib tip Is completed wi
. tiny ball OF Venetian glass. carved ivor
or enameled metal. The balls are no bigg
than bread pills; still they add greatly
the lively beauty OF the little sunshad
There are also quaint conceits in the handl
of many. A very great many have rath
long shafts of polished wood. cut in thr
sides, colored a warm sealing wax red a
topped by a big turquoise. A tassei is fiou
ishing for straight shafts OF highly polish
precious woods. The polish is given
bring out the wood grain bright and Gle;
and some OF the mahogany handles a
lovely in the extreme as mere examples
the cabinet makers art.
There is a curious fashion worth tell