The record-union., 1898-01-02

llSn SeTSeS ana ulagOnalS, ana cEepSO
cloth in colors medium and dark and
in light spring qualities.
Gray, green and black have been
highly favored colors fer seasons past,
and now blue is making a bid for mark
ed favor next season. Blue in many
tones and semi-tones will appear among
every style of plain or fancy dress
goods and jacketings 1t is beautiful
| dye in many of its deeper shades, but
| no color needs more careful selection.
Some of the new hyacinth, iris, sap
phire. lobelia, and similar new tints
are quite as trying as violet or hello
trope, but when a becoming shade is
once found, there are few colOrS that
are more becoming to the wearer, or
that can easily be made so by the
| introduction of a little cream color. a
| mixture of white and blue, or a touch
! of soft pink or ruby red near the face.
| This red must be no half measure but
brilliant, with not a trace OF dull garnet
| in it, Women of the neutral type
should never select dense, decided col
! ors for an entire toilet or costume.
| Very fair and very dark women can
! long as the shops are aglow with such
beautiful color mixtures in all-wool, in
| fine Chine patterns, and shadowed
soft effects in silk, satin, and silk and
| wool blendings, women of no decided
| type can array themselves smartly
and most becomingly. Certain shades
of blue, however, are found that. with
the aid of trif1ing but potent acccesso-
ries, prove becoming in turn to women
Of every type and complexion.
| Caracal is, as most people are aware,
a black fur with bruised looking sur
face and an inky hue. This density of
color is found trying to many wearers
and to remedy this defect this fash
ionable pelt is now dyed blue. green.
and brown, and under it's new London
treatment it presents quite a, novel ap-
pearance, and many Russian blouses
for outdoor wear are now made of it.
|
Regardless of the disfayor with which
fancy waists have been regarded by
| leading foreign and domestic dress
makers and tailors, it comes from the
| highest authorities that they will in
! crease rather than diminshin popula arity
during the coming spring and summer
| season, for the reason that the Rus
sian blouse effects are found to lend
| themselves more appropriately and
gracefully even to light woods and fancy
| goods in silk. satin, and silk and WOO
mixtures, to every kind of dainty dia-
| phanous summer textiles than to the
weighty cloths and furs of the present
| 20 70 icf hoe
been favored by dressmakers, owing
largely to the fact that while a dressy
and often elaborate effect was pro-
duced at small cost to the wearers, il
resulted in loss of business to them
During two seasons past French and
American designers have vainly en-
deavored to popularize other modes OF
dress which would oust a style so in
furious to the dress-malSing business
but opposition has seemed to increase
| the vogue of the separate waist, in al
its wonderfully varied and fascinating
| guises.
| Primrose and pale-cameo pink crepe
| de Chine is much used by hgh-class
nodistes in making dancing, debut
antes', and bridesmaids toilets. This
| lovely fabric is trimmed with pearl
and opal-beaded passementeries and
! beautiful laces in various fashionable
designs. 1t is also made up with del
| icate contrasting fabrics in satin bro
cade, corded silk, plain satin, or moire
Its most charming effect is, however
when combined with lustrous peau de
sole, with draperies of silk net OF the
same tint and bodice garnitures OF
sprays of roses, and cascades of Vene-
| tian lace.
| A great number of the new coats are
made decidedly longer than any worn
| last season. Very tall, slender WON
en- may congratulate themselves on the
change. The serni-fitting English
| walking-coat gives a certain volume
which can well be spared in the case OF
| women of shorter stature. The long
loose coat, which somewhat resembles
the circular Russian model, falling
from a yoke, is made in many hand
somely dyed materials. which look like
| ladies' cloth, with a cashmere weave
There is a lining of heavy shot satin
and the large full ruches OF fringed silk
that trim it are very becoming. These
wraps are, however manifestly not foi
hard wear, as the vicissitudes Of oui
wintry weather would soon wilt these
delicate trimmings irremediably.
|
| Some of the long Bernhadt sleeves
| formed OF chiffon or silk-figured gauze
are made over invisible Innings Of fine
| soft net This gives bit more OF
body to the sleeve, makes it a degree
warmer, and then, If the arms are some
what ruddy or deficient of roundness
the net addition will modify the defect
| In transparent bodices cut with low
silk lining, fashion makes a similar ad-
dition of net under the shirred OF
| tucked material forming the bodice, ii
this addition is deemed necessary.
| Peplums which are added to Russian
blouses, jacket bodices, surplice waists
and similar garments, are shaped in va
rious ways. Some are crenelated, others
cut in oval tabs or sharp Vandykes, and
also in circular form, with or without
pleats at the back.
One of the prevailing fashions in full
dress is the wearing of exceedingly
long wrinkled sleeves, with low cut OF
half-low bodices.
The Colonel Wasn't Vaccinated
The old Colonel was seated before a
south window yesterday at an early
| ta.,y. yv1,ar, ba xraS In of fba