The times., 1898-09-11
BUSY Times FOR TAMORS
Sample Styles for Autumn
Elaborately Decorated.
NAUGHTY HIGH HEADGEAR
Early Millinery Importntions Show
Broad. Upturned Brfms and Tow
ering Cresfs of WiDgs-Theater
and Hotel Waists of Various Novel
Construction-GasIi Toilets.


fan season would bring US many novel
ties in the cut and trimming OF our
gowns, but there is nothing very new,
under this September sun at least True
IL is, the tailors are very active and look
very wise but what is 1t all about? When
you come TO inquire the details alone
prove of interest. For instance. great
deal of velvet is going to adorn the
handsomest suits, exceedingly fanciful
braiding will distinguish others, tucks af-
ter running in horizontal lines have fall
en into the perpendicular, and ever SO
many tailor made Princess gowns viii be
seen.
Just suit yourself as to color is the lax
law prevailing with regard TO these stun
dresses. though if it's blue you want,
Royal blue is somewhat more 10 the fore
front than its fellow colors; a peculiarly
soft and becoming tone called Peacock
green is bound TO enjoy long season OF
activity and curious interminglfng of
dull green and cedar brown, appropri-
ately named Autumn foliage, makes up
in truly admirable suits.
To go yet more deeply into this ques-
ton of color we must talk while of
some of the midseason stuff suits. These
the tailors are making up in handsomely
checked haf-weieht serges and strap
ping and barring them with narrow folds
of plain goods, held down at the point of
every small stray with a button. A
brown cloth covered over with quarter
inch wide stripes of green, crossing each
other at right angles, thus leaving
squares two TO three inches broad. Will
be checked inside these squares in a pc
cuIiar tone OF rusty red. The brown,
green and red so commingled creates
display of color that equals the Scotch
plaid, of which this material is a direct
offshoot.
This style of goods is much the mode
for the perfectly simple autumn walking
skirts. and with SUCH a checkerboard
petticoat a smart little coat. of--salij
brown or green cloth. is adopted; its re-
yers faced with checkered silk and a
checked silk skirt front peeping out be-
tween The lappels.
Braiding as an ornamentation for Goth
suits was never in more vigorous use
than at present. There are pretty shot
green and brown and blue and yellow
wool braics, fiat sati-faced braids, silk
braids. silk and mohair braids and braids
that are as rough as the surface of Brus-
sels carpet and as smooth as peau de sole.
In place of braid proper. as We know il,
cords of various sizes are largely applied,
in foriated patterns, 10 smooth cloth sur
faces, and most especially on Princess
dresses is the decoration by braiding re-
quired. About the hips il is massed to run
down the front with a tablier effect
spread upon pointed vests and covers,
with a fine scroll work. nearly the entire
sleeve. Most interesting, in the new
styles of braid weaves, is that which,
woven either wide or narrow, possesses a
surface so rough that Ii looks at a lit
let flya .iefr- nF ffrr
Another exceedingly modish make is call
ed hussar braid.
But because of all these slight devia-
tions from the styles of last year, lei nc
woman lay the fiatering junction to heT
soul that there will be any great oppor-
tunities TO economize on the fall sewing
A last years skirt. for example, can't
pass muster here, and now that the Span
ish fiounce effect has given place to the
Princess and Louis XIV forms, and small
as the Autumn hats are, they require
great brilliancy of velvet, feathers and
jeweled ornament in their make up. II
used TO be a pet plan with women to
wear out their old black skirts with
bright theater waists, but now the author.
titles say that such a scheme is very de-
mode unless the skirt is a black and white
striped silk, a skirt of black lace, or q
evening bodices must come all the rucked
and gathered chiffon sleeves of last Win.
ter, to be replaced by Transparent ones
that are tucked close and fine, either uI
and down or round and round the arm
Very soon also the necks of all the gowns
will be ruthlessly torn out, to make place
for the new buttoned collars and the high
straight satin neck stalls, about which a
little lace scarf winds and knots in front
As to the evening dresses, renovation
cannot cure their hopeless malady OF
Observation-Disclosures. What the Winter oi
'91 saw fit to countenance and applaud is
an abomination in our own eyes now. fol
low necked bodices are cut out altogether
differently, and the skirt that takes your
eye when 1t enters the ballroom displays
an adjustment of lace and jeweled trim
ming about the hips that is almost a fully
developed milkmaid's pannier
Now we are called to render Judgment
upon the first flock of hats in the market.
They are wonders 10 the eye, long sooth-
ed by the gracious slope of wide straw
ewes so becomingly shading eyes and
brow, the sweet Shepherdess back and
the soft fall of plumes. 1t will take some
time for us to accept the new order OF
things of all the wide brims turning up
straight from the face, slit down the
d Rllll6rlnS
brooch. From either side these naughty
crest wings fare out, and the back OF
the hat is very insignificant indeed Ac-
cording to the milliners the rear of your
chapeau does not count. The facade is
the thing, and the only comfort to be
found in this revolution is the fact that
black and white is the smartest combi.
nation the head can show
Another approved and excessively try
Hr-4r -<lrnrw
autumn. is dove gray and turquoise blue
Only the very brave or very fair can ven
ture to adopt it.
A word just here as to the pretty gauzy
goods that the dry goods dealers are lust
about spreading on their counters They
oaf them robes for dancing and dinners
and they are lovely, beyond the reach ci
edmiring adlectives. Also, they come In
just two pieces, a shaped out seamless
piece for the skirt, and a smaller breadth
for the waist. Their weaves first demand
attention, for they are woven to be as
opalescent as a drop of rain through
which The sun is shining, or they are
watered like moire or open of mesh a:
a basket
One particularly taking pattern is 6
black silk muslin, that in the folds give:
of high white lights. as satin does. AL
over this falls a shower of burningly scar.
let poppy petals The petals, of course
are. by some artistic device, dyed i'm ths
muslin. though just as many of ths
gauzes have their decorations brought out
in velvet relief on their surfaces. an6
some beauties show satin stripes. fine as
a hair, woven athwart the fall of the
goods.
Quite regal are the fashion properties
now on exhibition for the dowagers.
Their robes of state are to be satin this
winter, chiefly black satin, but gloriously
embossed In white velvet. II is very rare
ly that a student Of the mode car, ,,.,t 80.