The record-union., 1898-11-20

AT ali the leading importing houses
are now exhibited a great variety OF
winter coats, eapes, Jackets and cloaKs
differing greatly both in make ana
style of trimming. Although many
quaint and pretty little shoulder wraps
are still very fashionable, interest con-
centrates chiefly upon the newer ana
much more pretentious models, which
are shaped in a deeply curving. outward
sweep from the neck, sometimes to the
hem of the dress skirt. These have
decidedly old d-fashioned appearance,
and well they may, for many of them
are modelled exactly after garments
worn during the early years Of Vic
toria's reign. From various noted
French designers are shown models or
short, medium, three-quarter and full
length wraps, including redingotes,
Russian circulars, very much cut away
on the fronts and fiounced at the edges;
Muscovite coats, English walking jack
cts, Louis XIII. and XIV. styles with
long coat tail backs; tweed and broad
cloth surtouts and natty rench shapes
cloth surtouts and natty French shapes
vogue and presenting a choice more
varied in style than has appeared in
any one season within recollection.
Fringe in jet, silk, beads, cords and
chenille has come into fashion if not
into general favor. In spite of their
familiar drawbacks, fringes. of every
make are used by high-class dressmak-
erS.
-
show of small fur neck pieces, and a
few boas in all the long feeced furs,
such as black fox, marten, lynx, Alaska
sable. etc, with fair sized muffs to
match. Boas are rather stiff looking
when made of fur that has short fleece,
but they are to be. had in seal, otter
and black Persian lamb. OF the peler-
ines, the shorter the cape or shoulder
portion and the longer the stole fronts
the more stylish the garment.
Many of the small pelerines and other
shoulder capes of last winter are mod
ishly changed into very attractive
styles with a frill at the edge and long
slender stole fronts. Sometimes these
additions are of brown, dark green or
other deep toned silk or velvet. or
again, the yoke piece is of velvet, over
laid with rich yoke design in silk or
bead passementerie, and the frill at
the edge is made of fur with matching
panel ends finished with number of
sable, fox or mink tails at the throat
and a fringe of the same at the ends
of the panels.
Herewith is given a description of an
elaborate coat made by Pingat, which
could be copied at much less cost than
the original. A very soft, beautiful
shade of gray, smooth surfaced cloth
forms the fabric. 1t is close fitting in
the back, with a very slight spring
and fullness on the short skirt portion.
The semi-fitting fronts flare to display
a tight fitting vest of white cloth,
braided in gold and silver in very mar
row lines set side by side, and closed
with small gold and silver buttons.
There is an open, standing collar trim
med with the braid, short revers on
each side of the chest nearly covered
with straight lines of alternate gold
and silver braids in straight horizon
tai rows with a button at each outer
end. Below the chest begin other rev
ers narrowly pointed at the top. and
widening greatly as they near the
waist. These are merely of the white
cloth edged with a narrow line of dark
brown fur. The sleeves are very small
OF the gray cloth, and striped from
shoulder to wrist with lines of the
BRAID ending in fiaring cuffs of plain
white cloth, edged with fur. The high.
naring collar, which is cut in one with
q frIN
no braid trimming With this wrap is
a nat OF soft gray French felt, the
prlm edged with sable fur. the hat
trimmed with gray and white wings.
ana large, curving and yellow aig-
rette.
High coloring in millinery is further
enlivened by conspicuous ornaments in
novel and unique devices First of ali
are heraldic designs, old Greek and
Roman buckles, and warlike weapons Of
various shapes, set with gems that are
IN all tints and more or less valuable
There are handsome opal pins in cir
cles OF French brilliants, and medals
and cameo medallions linked together
with glittering paste clasps, not to men,
ton immense jeweled dragon-flies but
~StA AtSS anu tiny reptile designs in real
gold and French enamel, bronze, Jet
emerald stones, rubies, and cut-steel
the range of ornamentation extending
from hay-rakes and harpoons tc
crowns and coronets, from a pearl sand
piper to an owl with onyx beak and
diamond eyes.
1nere are now so many beautifully
dyed and exceedingly fine varieties OF
Wooien materials manufactured that II
IS not surprising that they have taken
the lead and now form so great a part
or the dress fabrics used throughout the
year. There was a time when the
pest dresses must be of silk. and
many a woman before the days of tailor
gowns OF wool has sllivered in an mad
equate, inappropriate silk dress wher
sne might have been warm and com
Iortaple IN cloth one at half the cost
Dix, satin and Drocade will naturally
Always be in demand for those who
can AFFORD rich variety of toilets an6
costumes, but for those whose circum-
stances, surroundings. and health re-