davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

tailor-built gown. Bands Of jeweled
embroidery. too. may be made to play
their part in the f~ashioning Of sleeves
for tea gowns and evening dresses. In
accordance with the present fashion,
with the happiest results.
From Paris I hear wonderful stories
Of soft satin gowns, covered with ira
ceries OF silver and raised designs Of
with silk embroidery used 10 vein
over the water of entire dresses made
of painted mousseline. trimmed with
little ribbons and bordered with fur.
IL seems strangely homogeneous to COM
bine fine lisse and muslin with fur. but
when did we stop to consider the in
congruous in dress? And. by the way.
the newest cravat Is Of white batiste.
bordered with mauve and edged with
narrow sable.
The fashionable furs of tomorrow
were the fashionable furs of yesterday.
Sable and ~chinchilla for the extrava-
giant. fox and mink for the more econ
omical. The most luxurious OF capes
is made OF sable. lined with chinchilla.
with some old lace about the throat.
Lace would appear to he indispensable
this year TO the fur coat. indeed. to
all our garments, for lace Is again the
idol Of the hour. Should fate prevent
US from possessing II old. then should
we purchase IL new. and appreciate
the art and skill expended in the cause
Of beauty. The manufacturers of i'm
itation lace have really achieved re-
markable effects.
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

terials used are in three parts. EACH
running entirely around the skirt and
cut and fitted into each other, zach
being Joined to the other by embroid-
cry. A beautiful beige dress, shown
this e by one of our best houses,
has the upper section of beige popllD.
the middle one of satin duchesse. and
the lowest. which Is fiared. is of velvet.
All three materials are of the same
shade and the effect is very elegant.
All skirts are long. touching all around
and heightened out INTO something
very near a train at the back.
In a happy hour for the lover and
skillful worker of beautiful embroideries
the decree of fashion has gone forth
that our gowns are to sparkle with
jeweled trimmings. or be adorned with
exquisite needlework. And how love-
ly are the materials for this purpose
which the decree has called into ex-
istence-lustrous spangles. counterfeit
gems, emulating the beauty of their
prototypes i'm brilliance. delicate roc
oco ribbons of every imaginable hue,
and rich, softly tinted chenilles. while
the varieties innumerable of embroid-
cry silks have reached an almost unri-
vailed degree OF perfection both as
to color and texture. To glance at
the stores of such material in any art
needlework repository of the present
day Is, to the worker. Indictment in it.
self to undertake the manipulation.
and the blending Of their soft hues
and glittering sheen into some scheme
of harmonious coloring; and in the
fashion of the hour as regards dress.
lie endless opportunities for turning
her handiwork to satisfactory account.
At the schools of art needlework
much attention has lately been devoted
to the adaptation OF artistic embroid-
cries to purposes of dress with admir-
able results. One of the most success
full achievements was a dress. in which
the skirt OF rich ivory white satin was
embroidered with bouquets of flowers
tied with knots and trails of ribbon,
worked in chenille and silk. accentu-
ated with diamonds and other gems.
Extremely successful also was an opera
or carriage cap OF black satin, entire
ly covered with a scroll design treated
I'm black sequins M diamonds. 4 IA
vorite design of the schools. which has
been applied in many different ways,
Is a feather pattern. which may he
adapted as a powdering or as a Dor
der, worked In either silk or jewel en-
broidery. or in a blending of both.
Here is a description of a beautiful
design for an embroidered skirt. The
piece of work i'm question forms the
entire trimming to a skirt. and exem-
plifes a somewhat 10Y idea-namely,
the execution of large. bold flowers in
ribbon work. Set rather high on one
side of the skirt is a posy of Malmaison
carnations. embroidered i'm shaded pink
China ribbon. intermingled with light
sprays of fern carried out in oval
green spangles. A similar posy rests
just above the hem Of the skirt. a little
to the left, the two clusters being son.
nected by bows and streamers of rib
bon simulated in double outlines of
laid gold thread. enclosing a powdering
of moon stone Jewels. Detached
sprays of carnations and ferns are
lightly thrown on other parts of the
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

dress. while here and there hovers a
brilliant butterfly or dragon fly work.
ed in opals, diamonds and m~oOnstones
TIE bodice may be worked to corre-
spond. OF II a softer trimming is wished
for. the design may be reproduced on
gauge or some flmy material with
Charming effect. The work is by no
means tedious. and. by n fairly ex-
perIenced worker, would be speedily
finished.
Less ambitious. but well repaylng the
trouble of working. are the embroidered
Wristbands. For the sake OF the de-
sign a description may well be given
OF one of these-an adaptation of a
delicate Sevres pattern. copied from
a lovely piece OF antique porcelain.
The scrolls are treated in gold or sill
yer thread. sprinkled with Jewels, and
the miniature garlands Of roses n
forget-me-nots in ribbon work on a
background of black. white or family
colored silk OF satin betting. The de-
sign would lend itself charmingly to
embroidery on satin ribbon for a sash.
or as ends only. / have seen a fascin-
ating sash. embroidered on very broad
satin ribbon. with clusters OF corn. and
grass worked In silver on the ends.
which were finished with silver fringe.
Embroidered parasols offer another
"Ahhh AhhA W ~ -
excellent %ccount One l ave seen
was OF white silk. embroidered with a
Louis Seize bow Of narrow. green rib
bon. worked In flo-floss silk. lightly
holding together a handful of field
flowers embroidered with all the del
icacy or miniature painting; another
was worked entirely in ~spangles of diff
ferent colors. I'm a flowing ribbon de-
sign. which glistened with rainbow-like
effect as IL caught the sunlight.
Touches OF n~eedlework. well intro
duced. impart a special charm to a gar
ment. L have seen a long opera cloak
of powder blu velveteen made beau
tiful by the addition Of a yoke and
sleeves of white satin brocade. with
its bold. conventional design worked
out in artistically chosen silks and
jeweled ~spangles. and opportunities
without limit lie in the construction of
the silk IND chiffon fronts which
may be made to add so incidentally to
the taste and smartness of an ordinary
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

TIL danger, the hunter explained. Is
not great. being principally from
snakes. scorpions and centipedes. There
IL a popular error. he says. about ALL
gators being ferocious. He says he has
frequently waded out into a shallow
stream crowded with them and armed
only with a stick: he has shouted at
them and dubbed them over the nose.
when they would get out of the way as
fast as they could. The long. lean kind
are fiercer. still. about the only danger
when one gets into "A school of alliga-
tors Is that they will not move out Of
the way until shot at. and then in their
scramble they may hit the side of the
boat with the tail and splinter II. A
wetting and loss OF provisions follows.
The egret Is a shy bird. Their rook-
cries are in places not easy of access.
but may be approached in a small
launch. The birds roost in high trees
standing in water. The hunter ap-
~proaches cautiously. anchors under the
tree. and then shoots from daylight
until dark. A fowling piece Is the
weapon used. The bird falls near the
canoe and ls picked up by the hunter.
Dogs are not used. because the alli-
gators are very fond OF dogs. These
rookeries contain from 1000 to $4,000
birds. about Is per cent of which may
be taken, as only the old birds are
shot. and then not until the young mes
are able to take care of themselves,
which Is when they are about six weeks
old.
The season varies. In central Amer
lea and Mexico II is from February to
October. The best time Is in March.
April and May. After that h plumes
become a little ragged. ON the Grin
oco the season Is from about Sept. l to
Jan. 1. There are big rookeries on
Aprene, a tributary OF the Orinoco.
Two steam launches are now on the
river and have made considerable
money. Rookeries are on big cattle
ranches, owned by natives who jeal-
ously guard them. A privilege costs
about s.. 900 and so per cent OF the pro-
ceeds. Each bird Is worth about SIS.
The feathers for which they are hunted
grow on the back and hang down over
a short. stubby tail. about 5000 ounces
were shipped from the Aprene region
to New York last year. This would APP
proximate about cocoon birds. The
shipped TO Paris and London
are larger. but the figures are not OBJ
tainable.
There are known 20 be immense rock
cries on other tributaries Of the Orin-
oco which have not yet been ap-
preached because the launches draw IS
for six month In the year during the
dry season there Is only "a inches Of
water.
Feathers are plucked. and after be-
ing assorted into grades /. . m 3. are
dried and Theoretically sealed In tin
boxes for shipment. They are used for
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

this fact are often inclined to draw
false conclusions from IL. IL IL not by
any means to be assumed that the
wearing OF false jewelry Is an evidence
OF vulgarity; that women who adorn
themselves with paste desire to impose
by a fictitious display of wealth. on
the contrary. the jewelry worn by a
woman OF limited means is more likely
to be genuine than that which adorns
her weather. sister. "A poor woman
dare not appear bedecked with a mag
nihcent tiara of false diamonds. for
every one would know at once that they
were paste.
with the wife Of a millionaire IL Is
different. The public knows that she
can AFFORD real gems and consequently
do not question the genuineness OF
those which she may be pleased To
wear. and these are usually false. Few
women care to run the risk of having
their valuable Jewelry stolen. so wear
the counterfeit in public. while he
genuine reposes in safety in the bank
vault.
This custom is now more general
even I'm countries where there IL a
hereditary aristocracy. The family
Jewels. which have been handed down
from generation to generation. n the
value OF which is by historic
association. are not taken from the safe
half "A dozen times In a generation
There is a very large demand for
artificial jewelry nowadays. Provi-
dence. II. l.. is the center of the indus
try in this country. and the articles
produced are highly admirable as evil
dences of careful and skilful work.
The average jeweler. let alone the lay
man. is quite unable. without the aid
Of chemicals. to distinguish h false
from the true. Jewelry buying Is al
Why's done by experts. who take the
greatest possible precautions. Among
the most difficult stones to judge are
sapphires. The examination is always
made in the open air. as indeed Is the
case with many gems. and only at a
particular hour and under particular
atmospheric conditions. all OF course
regulated by the amount. direction and
quality of the light. The afternoon of
a cloudy day is the usual time chosen.
Diamonds are not so difficult to judge
as some other gems. There are some
simple tests which may generally be
relied upon.
Take a card and bore a small round
hole in IL. and then look at the hole
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16
MOURNS FOR ITS ROYAL MATCHMAKER

Written for the Sunday Standard.
Peacefully there has just passed
away a queen among queens, a royal
parsonage who held another title be-
sides that Of which she became pos
sessed by tight of birth. Louise. queen
Of Denmark, has been dubbed the
Royal Matchmaker of Europe" for
the reason that she has made more
marriages in the circles where kings,
move and have their being. than any
other parsonage that ever lived. The
late queen of Denmark was admitted
ly one of the cleverest of women, one
of the most determined. and one of
the most scheming when she entered
the calm i'm which the rule of an or
binary monarch Is supposed to give
place to that of Cupid. Before her per-
sonal comfort. her throne. or her peo-
ple, came her children. Louise was
the mother first and the queen after.
1t was in the carrying out of his prin-
chile that she unconsciously acquired
the title of THE hoyal Matchmaker
Of Europe"
The passion for marrying off others
was confined to her own family, and
we'll did she provide for them. When
she died her right hand was held by
her eldest daughter. Alexandria, prin-
cess of Wales, who In the usual line
of succession will one day be queen
of England; the other hand was claps-
ID by King George OF Greece. the son
Of the dying queen, who had her TO
thank for his throne, and the wealth
It had enabled him to amass. a fortune
that has been estimated at $25,Ooo.-
900.
This son and daughter were only
two OF a large family that has been
placed so advantageously by the late
queen in the royal circles of Europe.
that to-day the throne of Denmark.
which was once of little Importance
in the councils of Europe, is consid-
cred to WELD more influence h any
other In the European concert. BY
means of the ties obtained through
her marriage arrangements. Queer
Louise was enabled to exercise a po-
tent influence over Russia, Greece.
the Balkan States. Norway and Swe-
den. Great Britain. and even some
OF the courts OF Germany. The indu-
nee she thus welded was enormous.
So much 30 that Prince Bismarck fire.
quently had occasion 10 gnash his
teeth and pray for come n TO take
out Of his path this terrible DID wo-
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

Alexander Ill. and the union proved
a most happy one. The present cxar
Of Russia's relationship to the dead
queen was that of grandson.
The third daughter Of the Queen
of Denmark. Thyre. was first betroth-
ed to the Prince Imperial. That un-
fortunate scion of the royal French
killed i'm the Zulu war. his body being
found pierced with assegais some
days after the prince had been caught
i'm a reconnaissance with some cav
alryr.en of the British army. The
daughter of the royal matchmaker
was not allowed to grieve her life away
mourning over the untimely taking
off of the dashing young prince. There
were other unmarried princes In Eu-
rope. and to one of these she was unit
ed in the person of the son OF the late
king of Hanover. This prince Is
known as the Duke of Cumberland.
and besides being a prince of Great
Britain. Is a man OF vaS wealth. three
railroad cars being required to carry
his massive collection of gold and sill
yer plate when he travels.
a she chosen to. the Queen of
Denmark could have been sole ruler
of the land. for her %consort. the pres
ent king. was not so near to the line
OF succession as she. She showed
her sterling qualities as a woman
however. by resigning this right in
favor of her husband, and ~elevating
him to the throne she could legally
have occupied. No n has ever had
the slightest doubt. however. as TO
which OF the royal pair was the ruler.
Louise. TIE late queen. ruled not only
her own household and her husbands
subjects. but a great part of the royal
families of Europe.
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

purple Is a close rival to the brown
colorings. Inc on these purple hats os-
trich feathers of the same color are
used. This reddish purple will OBJ
tain later in the season in gowns. 1t
is only becoming. however. to fault
less compilations and should be bought
only by the few.
In tailor-made costumes the latest
development II the cutaway fiounce.
Two or more of these are used. They
are perfectly plain in front. start from
a point i'm the center Of the front and
slope away at the sides to a greater
depth. This idea Is carried into the
skirts of gowns of every description
as well as those of the tailor-made
kind.
A new idea is the combination ~
three materials in one skirt. The ma
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

man at Copenhagen who played such
havoc with his pet designs and smash
ed to flinters the diplomatic struct-
ures he SO laboriously built up.
To begin the family Of the royal
matchmaker with the eldest son. the
crow prince. whom the queen mar
ried to the only child of the late king
of Sweden. Through this Swedish
princess the crown prince came in
to possession of a vast fortune, the
princess being possessed In her own
right of the enormous sum of $50, 000,-
900. No doubt the queen had this
snug little sum in mind when she ar
ranged and saw successfully brought
to the altar-stage the marriage Of
her son to the royal beauty who own
ed such "A. huge bank account.
The second son, William, did not
find a royal road to wealth by way
of the marriage altar, but he Ii prob
ably just as well satisfied, for the
queen-mother provided for him in the
handsomest manner by placing him on
the throne of Greece. which he has
which time has he been in the high
est favor with the people of hat an
cient land. william made hay while
the sun shone. however, and were he
driven from the throne of Greece ny
a popular outburst now he would be
aDle 10 carry away private money
bags to make him many times a mill
~lionairc.
Queen Louise made amends for her
failure to sustain her matchmak-
ing reputation with her second
son by marrying the third, Ad-
miral Prince Waldemar, to Prin-
cess Marie of Orleans. who not
only came in for a large sum of money
through his wife at the time of her
marriage. but under the will OF her rich
grand-uncle. the late Duke of Aumale.
added TO IL to the extent of many
millions.
The eldest daughter of the queen
made the most important marriage
Of them all. Princess Alexandria o.
Denmark became of Princess of Wales
h wife of the future king of Grea.
Britain. emperor of India. etc.
The second daughter. Dagmar. was
first pledged to the C~zarovitch Nicho-
las. eldest son of the Emperor Alexan-
der II. When the death of that prince
occurred, the royal matchmaker. not
TO be beaten when she had set her
heart on p union with the royal czars
of Russia. caused her daughter to be-
come the iancee OF the younger broth
er Of the deceased prince. In due time
DaSmar became the consort OF Gar
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16
ecRET rs A shy BIRD.
How Hunters secure the Feathers for
Millinery Purposes

Nearly six feet high. very dark from
the burning Of a tropical sum-. but sin
envy and strong in appearance, was
Charles H.. Mohrmann a few days ago
as he related his story OF the hunting
of the egret in South America. At first
glance he woul be taken for an officer
in the Spanish or Cuban army. who
had been exposed to the elements In a
campaign. He started in his present
career from the feather and hat district
Of New York city in an endeavor TO
reach the source of supply of this most
valuable millinery decorative finery.
In his quest he hunted through Mexico
and Central America. only TO md that
the game was pretty much hunted out
in those Countries. and travelled on into
Venezuela before he found the birds in
rookeries. for IL is in a gathering OF this
kind that they can be shot with pront,
These rookeries may be sought 70.
years without success.
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16
SINGULAR STATEMENT.
From Mrs. Rank to Mrs. Pinkham.

The following letter to Mr.. Pink
East Susquehanna Ave, Philadelphia,
Pa, is a remarkable statement of re-
lief from utter discoursgement She
says:
"Inever can fnd words with which
TO thank you for what Lydia E Pink
hams Vegetable Compound has done
for me.
"Some years ago l had womb trouble
and doctored for . long time, not go
ing any improvement. At times I
would feel well enough. and other
times was miserable. So il went o.
until last October. I felt something
terrible creeping over me, l knew not
what. but kept get&ing worse. I caA
hardly explain my feelings 1t that
time. l was so depressed in spirits
that l did not wish to live. although I
had everything to live for. Had hys-
terra, was very nervous; could NOT
sleep and was not safe to be left
alone.
Indeed. l thought I would lose nv
mind. No one knows what / endured.
Il continued this way until the Lac
of February, when l saw in . paper .
testimonial of . lady whose case We
similar to mine. and who had bsea
cured by Lydia E. Pinkhams veesta.
BILE Compound. I determined 70 try u.
and felt better after the hrst Doe. I
continued taking 1t. and to-day IN .
well woman. and car say iron ny
heart. Thank God for such . nsdi-
cine"
Mrs Pinkham invites al snDsrinR
women to write TO her et LyAn. Ma.
for advice. All such lettsrs sre -
and answered by women onlv.
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

From the Paris POST.
A further hatch of nominations to
the Legion or Honor having been an
onunced for the close of the week. a
Boulevard journal has X the OPP
portunity to give sundry details re-
speeding the minor expenses entailed by
the right to adorn ones buttonhole with
the coveted red ribbon. The cross OF
the order. which Is only worn on great
occasions. f. supplied by the state for
the modest sum of Is francs. The ar
ticle. however Is said to be of inferior
quality. the jeweler who has the mon
opoly OF It's manufacture being Obliged
to have ecourse TO Indifferent material
in order to make a living proht- In
consequence a certain number Of the
newly decorated prefer to purchase
their cross from n jewelers. OF the
Palais Royal. rho make a speciality Of
the trade. and whose charges var
from 20 francs to a maximum of a
louis and a half. The economically
minded may procure second-handed
crosses. but II Is more surprising to
learn tina IL is possible to buy second
hand strips Of ribbon at any of ttz> old
clothes shops In the district OF the
temple. Considering that a brand new
ribbon only involves an expenditure OF
s sous IL Is difficult to understand who
can be the customers for the CASTOR
article at a sou apiece
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16

through the stone. If the diamond b
false. you will see two holes; II IL b
genuine. only one. Again. put your
finger on the other side of a gem and
look through IL. IL you can see the
grain Of the skin your diamond In arti-
ficial: otherwise IL is a genuine. OF
course these tests are not absolutely In
fallible with the best-made d
counterfeits. but they will guide you to
the truth in 80 cases out of 100. Still
IL must always be remembered that
artificial jewels are being improved
every day. and. consequently. rendered
more difficult to detect. Some OF these
sham stones are quite costly. 1t In only
an inferior artificial diamond that you
can purchase for SIS. Indeed. In many
cases. sets are made of genuine and
false stones mixed. IL II no uncommo
thing to see an ornament consisting of
a large artificial diamond surrounded
by small genuine rubies."
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16
written for the Sunday Standard.

New York. Oct. 10.-It is a brown
season. Hats and gowns are displayed
in all the best shops. made up in vary
ing shades of this becoming color. 1t
IL the mixture of the tighter and more
silvery castor with the sober color that
makes the brown hat and gown becom-
ing. Beige. a variety of brown, is
also very popular. Beige velvet with
white embroidered spots is one of the
prettiest materials used for draping
the fall toques. Wings and quilts are
used on all the new hats in place of
birds, but ostrich feathers have not
zone out Of favor. The rich cyrano
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1898-10-16
ARTIFICIAL
1t Is Largely Worn by the wealthy. Both
Here aud Abroad.

THE value of the jeweiry displayed
in the boxes of the Metropolitan opera
house n at private n public enter
tainments. where the wealthy are wont
to meet" said a well-known tewelry
expert, lis usually much overestimated.
AS a matter OF fact. the greater part of
this jewelry Is false. paste, glass or
some modern composition or other.
However. persons who are aware Of