The San Francisco call., 1898-10-09

72 7 EW YORK, Oct. 1.-Two women
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 The Vanderbflts are back in town again and l am so glad"
 The other one glanced at her. Are you on intimate terms with them?' she asked.
 The first speaker laughed. No. in fact I am only just on their calling list but l am glad from a fashionable standpoint. Mrs. Gertrude Vanderbilt-W hitney leads the fashions for the younger set. you know and she is always very early to put on fGrs-
 Continuing. the speaker said: "Furs are becoming to every woman, l think, and all the fashionable world rejoices when it is again time to don them. l am sure a woman never looks so well as when hud- died up in a deep fur collar with her eyes sparkling and her cheeks red with the winters glow"
 But about Mrs. Vanderbnt-Whitney, '" persisted the questioner, lis it fact that she is so addicted to furs?"
 Yes" replied the first speaker. she is more so than any other woman in the world. On her tour around the WOfiu ShS gathered furs from every nation, TOT there is rot country which haS not US IurS; Even the Chinese have peculiar DlrQ breast which they make inlo capes ana furS While Mrs. Whitney is no beauty, you know. being fairly good looking, she makes the most of herself by dressing be- comingly. l dare say were we to meet her now we would find her riFged out in the very first fur cape of autumn"
 Her words were prophetic, for a lew blocks further on turning into Delm0n- icos came this self-same matron- She wore a gown of rich plaid goods of many gay colOrs Around her neck was hooked a dark green cOllarette with edges Of grebe breasts They were gray with a touch of green along their edges. The collar was particularly high. and was lined with green satin. She wore big gray hat with bands of green velvet around it, and on one side was a variety of bird of paradise with long trailing tail feathers. Two ostrich tips helped
 Her huff was new variety of huff. It was made of green velvet edged with very deep lace. In front was small but very pretty fOX's head.
 Women of fashion are quick to put on winter garments. Summer clothes look sadly faded in the Indian summer sun, and feminine eyes look for fresh. bright goods. The challies and the thin cot ton stuffs of summer are thrown aside. for it is true that after the season IS over they are mere rags ana m theI place come the brilliant fall plaids;
 i very pretty autumn toilet without particle of fur upon 1t had for its most distinguishing feature huff Of brown velvet curiously laid in great loops. The sides of the huff consisted ot brocaded velvet cut into points, and wired Ike star. The same velvet was employed dl the neck where 1t was tied in a very large bow with two brilliantly lined ends The hat was turban of brown velvet and on one side stood a handsome bird.
 Birds and fur are used a great deal to- gether this fall; and it is astonishing to note in how many ways they can be com bined. Fur muffs with birds upon them, collarettes fastened with birds heads, and fur toques trimmed with plumage are no novelty.
 White ermine will be fashionable, but alas, it will also be expensive. There Is this year pretty substitute for ermine which will be considerably worn. It can best be explained by describing a short pretty collar which was made of this ma terial
 The collar which was deep enough to