Evening star., 1898-08-27
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dress in as bad a predicament as before.
A beautiful cloth costume finished with
in the week was of q new and soft shade
of tan. The skirt was decorated with three
bards of black lace ribbon put on slightly
waving lines. Bold leaf designs in black
Chantilly were scattered between and
above the lines irregularly. The bodice was
arranged to pouch very slightly. Back
lace ribbons, starting from the shoulders,
from under the arms and from the sides of
the waist, met the BOSOM The leaf
designs were repeated on the upper part
of the bodice and formed small epaulettes
or the shoulders There was a folded belt
of black satin. The picture hat of black
st'aw was trimmed with piumes.
Cloth, Brlid and Fur.
Another dress, which anticipates the sea-
son almost unforgivably, is of a smooth
fine cloth, in color between old rose and
fewn. The skirt is striped down at inter-
walls with lines Of black silk braid, and is
bordered at the bottom with a narrow band
of mink fur. The bodice is of a close-ft-
ting coat type with basques, which round
out half way over the hips and suggest a
mans dress coat-remotely. Crystal but
tons down the front give a finish much in
vogue.
A dress worn this week at a Staten Is
land garden party was of purplish blue
yelling, made over taffeta of the same
color. The cHnging skirt, even exaggerat-
ing the prevailing smoothness and scanti-
ness, f1ared suddenly at the bottom in
bunch Of pointed ruffleS. A black satin
sash tied in large bows at the front of
the waist fell in fringed ends to the ground.
The blouse bodice turned back in large re-
verS, faced with smaller lace triangles,
upon vest of folded green chiffon. The
lower part of the bodice was crossed by
bayadere ruf1les of the dress material.
A more elaborate costume that appeared
on the same occasion was Of harebell blue
cloth, the skirt Stimulating an overdress
open down the front and edged with black
lace on each side. About the hips this
overskirt was incrusted with cream-col
ored lace, marked off by shirred ruffies of
blue ribbon from a lower black lace sec
ton. Below the black lace was more of
cream color and again another division of
black at the bottom. The arrangement of
the bodice was equally complicated black
and white lace bretelles meeting on the
bosom under yellowish velvet knot and
a full, hanging. yellowish lace ruff1e.
The cream-colored serge dress is the most
popular Of early autumn promises. 1t is
worn with one of soft black satin, lined,
Tor instance, with turquOise-blue serge silk
and fastened with turquoise buttons.
There Is as much gray as ever, though
gray usually gets frost nipped along with
blue some time in September. Geranum
req Is making its annual appearance, along
with great variety of plum shades bor-
dering on crimson. Watered and shaded
SILKS are announced as the most fashion
able wear. but are hardly seen as yet ex-
cept, ON sample cards. Solid colors have
much the better of novelty goods the lat
ter being used only as trimmings and
auxiliaries.
Plain Sleeves Not Popular.
The attempt to compel the use OF tho
perfectly plain sleeve is apparently aban-
doned. A few dresses are turned out with
the shoulders uncompromisingly tight and
severe, but the majority of women prefer
little fullness at this point or at least a
Jockey or epaulette, and for once the ma
jority Of women are ruling
The regime of glass buttons is only be-
gun. Certain things belong together. When
We get one of them we are sure to get
more Of the same lot. There is a fashion
group which includes crinoline, founced
dresses, snawls, fichus, fringe, open-work-
ed SILK stockings, sandal shoes, ringlets,
glass buttons and earrings. We have been
getting items out of this list for some time
We have net reached shawls yet, but we
are to wear shawl-shaped wraps this au-
tumn, and, with the exception Of crinoline,
we have about all the other things; notably
the ringlets and earrings; glass earrings,
by the way, go with our glass buttons.
Crystal set in silver is the newest thing IN
jewelry.
Having adopted pretty much everything
out of the hoopskirt group but the hoop
SKIRT, IT is prophesied that that, too, will
come. Let us hope for the variety adver-
tised in the sixties as permitting a lady to
ascend steep stair, lean against table,
throw herself into an arm chair, pass to
her stall at the opera and occupy a fourth
seat in a carriage without inconvenience to
herself or others, or provoking the rude
remarks OF observers, thus modifying in
an important degree all those peculiariti.s
(of the hoopskirD tending to destroy the
modest English women"
But this is wandering a long wav from
glass buttons.