New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-03-20
LENTEN FASHIONS IN PARIS
THE MoNDAINE PAYS VISITS AND AT
TENDS CONFERENCES AT THE
BODINIERE.
AN ERROR TO SUPPOSE THAT FRENCH WOMEN
PRESS sHowILY-FOR DAY FUNCTIONS
THEY ARE THE oUIETEST
GOWNED OF THE AGE.


THEY ARE THE oUIETEsT
GowNED OF THE AGE.
Paris, March Il
Il Is during Lent tina: the general public sees the
most Of the fashionable world Of Paris for balls.
formal dinners and the round Of large receptions
being interrupted. the mondaine turns her atten-
ton 10 informal visiting. afternoon musicals, the
fashionable conferences al the Bodiriere and even
10 church going. Il IS strange how we'll IN super
scial way. many foreigners know Paris without
being the least able 20 recognize the true type OF
the French elegante. and IN zine cases ont OF ten
what tho average foreigner assumes 20 DC true
Par.sienas Is simply a Parisenne OF the declasse
,ypc Yet there is no capital in the world where
the lines OF dress and department are so carefully
drawn. and this time Of the social year perhaps
this fact IS more than usually apparent.
TIE true grande dame, although she may blaze
Oh, IN the most marvellous OF toilets at night Is
the quletest gownsd Of women during the day. her
costume Is characterized by nothing save elegance
O. material At. and certain style peculiarly It's
own She Is absolutely irreproachabe, from the
small toque resting her glossy and not too elab-
ora,ely cofeured hair to the soles Of her patent
leather boots and in almost every case the entlre
costume will be OF black. and yet not black that
In the leas, suggests mourning. She is never alone
child servant at least accompanying her on
Ire slightest errand.
VIA. seems be costume much fancied py
French women now is a skirt OF black MORE. with
some slight touches OF fiat trimming and worn
with cloth or velvet Jacket These latter are
lifted In the back. but often with blouse front
shorter than were the winter Jackets, and WIFE
revers and collars faced with shirred mousseline de
SOLE oven IN the afternoon the dress OF tho
French woman OF distinction IS quiet and In such
unobtrusive style that one can only wonder at the
accounts that one so often reads and sometime
hears Of the dress display in the fashionable quar-
ter Of Paris.
Just at the moment the favori.e touch Of color
with the black costume Is purple-not the volel
that We expect in the spring matter OF course,
but true rich purple. A smart toQue is made OF
the shrred nloussellne de cole in black. with trim
m!ngs Of purple IN the way OF velvet bow ana pur-
Die flowers. Panses in this color suggest the ma
iron. and a young woman would 90 better 10
choose the tina; are so stylish this
spring var1egated bunch OF these running from
blue the proper shade OF purple IS charming
trimming to a black ha; or toque
A dress noted az the Bodinere the other AFTER
noon was bla ok MORE with the lower part Of the
skirt OF purple panne, the TWO materials met in a
series OF scallops that grew wider toward the back
the two sides meeting IN a point hallway up me
back breadth. An embroidery Of black passe'nen-
,e-.e was laid the joining and half-covercd the
panne On The bodice were only some slight touches
Of tie purple in The shape Of d lining 10 perfo-
rated empiecement and glimpses Of purple velvet
among the chiffon rufles formed the collar.
AMETHYsrs AND TURQUOlsEs.
A lovely watch or lorgnette chain is made OF
loops Of purple velvet ribbon separated each oy an
inch 0. gold chain IN which IS Sc; an amethyst !
and by the way. amethysts are the most fashcn- |
able % the senl.-precious stones now. IN another
watch ribbon of purple velvet are set tur4uo'ses'
the Two colors making IN the case Of the forget
me-rots, an agreeable combination The same COM
bins.on appears in belts trimmed With elaborate /
buckles and many slides, and dog collar 10 |
mach the belt is often worn outside the cho&er.
4 wel-known corsec-Inaker. when asked II the !
new s'yle OF dressing and the prevalence Of the /
close skirt and princess effects had neccSS.ated the
dcy!sng % new style Of corset affirmed that it !
mad ana proceeded 10 explain the advantages OF |
hsr rev nodes What the corset-nGkers are Try |
Ing do now is 10 make corset tina; vii spring |
OF; well In the back below the wais; lire ana Z" |
certain degree they have succeeded. IN no 'ther
res2ec. has the French corset changed, although 1t
would naturally occur 10 many women that the
clinging skirt demands longer corset ;han did the
style Of year ago The French woman approves
Of but style OF fgure-low ana not too iuI4
DUST. swelling hips and a waist that curves more
OIL The sides and IN he back than in froni-and as
The bust o. her corset gives plenty or ROOM she
rarely makes herself uncomfortable Win ushi lac
ing She may adopt the English jacket ana pFih-
cess form. but never the lons-vsisied English
asurs.
COSTUMES SEEN IN PAMELA"
II there were any place or opportunity in the
modes fo- revival Of the DIrectoire gowns 1t
would certainly be seen. for the costumes worn IN
Pamela" are absolutely bewtching. and show a I
'ar greater variety than IS expected OF that period
Nine Rejane. The "marchaate de fHvohte'
wears some delicious frocks ono IL litte working
orets % accordion pleated black silk almost covered
with apron OF accordion-plcate white mousseine
CO soie. and fchu OF the Marie Antonette fashion
ihh made without sleeves and decollete.
Another is toilet OF green velvet, with mag