Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1898-10-13

cles OF the case The hat is of felt or
stiffened frame, covered with velvet or
silk. Even changeable taffeta is used
to cover some of the hats. 1t is not
drawn exactly smooth, nor is it wrin-
killed. or puffed. Often exact squares are
made of velvet Or other material, and
sailor knot is tied in each corner. That
gives a donkey ear point. The center is
thus punched somewhat and is drawn
over the crown, and these little ears are
made into ornaments and trim the
crown, with the addition perhaps of
some fancy feather or other. There are
other shapes like capote with brim
turned up from the ears, rising in the
center and widening to form it's halolike
effect This style is becoming to almost
every one. Hats, toques and cozy little
capotes are now frequently made of
cloth to match costume and trimmed
in the same colors as the gown.
Two such instances will be seen in
the illustration. One is tiny capote of
brown and black striped cheviot, the
edge deeply scalloped and filled i'll with
shaded yellow flowers set in white lace
frills. The bonnet was simply of the
punched up cloth, with one donkey ear.
Black velvet strings started at the back
from under yellow velvet bows. All
capotes and most toques have velvet
strings The other was shaped hat Of
ehangeable heliotrope taffeta silk. The
brim was narrow and loosely covered
and tipped up sharply on the left side,
where there was bunch bow of prune
velvet. There was drapery of this
velvet around the right side and curl
ing over the top were two ostrich tips,
one heliotrope and the other white.
This matched the materials and colors
in the gown, which was model visit
ing gown. The skirt was plain; the
waist open in front to show an under
bodice of white tatfeta wrought i'll lat
ticework by very narrow prune velvet
ribbon, which also bordered the edges to
the waist. All the accessories were of
prune velvet.
There is very pretty new stuff of
silk and wool that makes up into ele-
CANT gowns. 1t is not named that can
find out but the weave is like the silk
warp henriettas, the cross weave is wool
in pale lavender blue and the silk one is
lengthwise and of light pinkish white.
That produces beautiful sort of opal
escent effect. 1t is especially pretty
when made with three or four narrow
bias untrimmed ruffles, the shades of
the stuff being SO very delicate. In the
picture the material mentioned is used
to develop a visiting or home toilet for
young lady 1t is made to close in the
back, and the front fits without darts.
A simple trimming of silk braid to
match in color is put on waist, sleeves
and skirt
Double skirts and all sorts of frills
and fiounces are in vogue One odd com
fiounce OF about ten inches deep. Over
that was an upper skirt of the same
with Dewey founce, which had a
thick black velvet cord to define the
junction. Skirts may be and are made
in dozens of designs. Each lady can
have what she likes and have it as she
likes it and still be in fashion
must return to millinery again to
say that red is to be one of fashion S ia
vorites There will be several shades,
all of a brilliant hue except the mahog
any red. There are cardinal, jacquemi-
not, ruby and crimson among the new
reds. The crimson is much on the pur
pie or plum shade and represents IA
maiden's blush lin Frenchl whenever
her fiance speaks to her. "Elle deyient
cramoisi, " they say, or, in plain Eng
lish, "She became crimson.
Lavender and military blues, prunes
and blush purples, mode, brown and
champagne colors are seen in the silks
and woods, but black takes the lead.
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.