Evening star., 1898-09-17
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
The Passing of the Summer Gown and Shirt
Waist
Small Black Hats Are Useful Possess
siOns just NOw-TwO Stylish
Models.
cial Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

| Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star
NEW YORK, September 10, 1898.
In the last week the character of the
gown seen On the streets has changed more
compl ,tely than has the weather. Last
| week shirt waists and sailors were in evil
| dence. as well as linen gowns and cottons
| of all descriptions. Today scarcely shirt
| waist is to be seen. This does not mean
| that shirt waists are simply concealed by
| coats and wraps. 1t means that they have
| been called ill., and the woman who takes
| off her jacket in a public place displays a
waist of silk or wool, usually the former.
| Shirt waists will be worn again later. Many
women wear them all winter under heavy
| coats. as they find them more comfortable
| than woolen waists. But they will only be
worn when there is no possible chance of
| the necessity of removing the coat which
covers them. Outside of the seclusion OF
ones own hreside, the shirt waist has van
ished for the year 1898.
Dark linen and denim gowns will be worn
to some extent for morning errands, espe-
cially if there is fare of hot weather to
tempt one TO find GOODNESS in light mate
rials. And in the country, of course. none
os these rules holds good. There cottons
and shirt waists may be worn as late as
one pleases, and there is no one to say nay
but the weather.
service for travelling all summer now come
to the fore, but in place Of a shirt waist
under them one sees a fancy front of lace
or silk when the coat is thrown open, or
there may be waist of silk, or one of the
waistcoats mentioned in an article of re-
cent date. The silk waists which are worn
under coat are often of a shade contrast
Ing or harmOniZing with the coat and skirt
But If one is inclined to find a coat too
heavy burden until late in autumn, then
the SIX waist must be the same shade as
the skirt to be quite en- regle. For although
the separate waist refuses to be downed,
and all indications point to gay bodices
and dark, serviceable skirts for evening
wear this winter, the fact still remains
that Tor street wear bodices should now
bear no relation to the skirt with which
they are donned.
Some Recent Examples.
Many instances of this are seen among
the smart gowns of travellers just IN town
for few days in shopping, or IN early
autumn travelling gowns being turned out
by modistes. A simple yet admirable gown
OF TINS sort has gray cloth skirt with TIE
fiounce. which is quite wide, tucked IN tiny
tCcks about an inch apart. The waist is
OF gray silk taffeta, of exactly the same
snaue as the skirt. 1t is also tucked with
tlny criss-croSs tUcks, which divide it into
large squares. 1t has d high white taf.cta
STOCK and white taffeta chemisette while
the turn-back lapelS of the waist are also
OF Whlte taffeta. OF course it is nothing
but 4 very pretty and becoming shirt
waist but with a skirt to match it it is a
Glgnlfed and serious gown. A black straw
nat win band of white ribbon and two
large cart wheels of white miroir velvet on
the lett SIDE completed gown which will
| be serv1ceabe-with the addition of a
Jacket for cold dsys-until snow flies s
ale blue silk shirt waist with a hIue clotl,
SKIRT was also noticed the other day at A
holel "here every one stops for a few Gays
a. a. thls season OF the year, although living
q JTrnIrl
| by that portion of our population who he
| lcng to the lilies of the field in their array
not In the fact that they toll not. For
whether we follow Dame Fashion or fo1lo,,,
the ploW, we all toll.
Ii you want to make your spring gown
answer Tor fall get felt hat little earlier
| than you otherwise would. If you have
smart autumn gown the prohabjlitie. orc
that smart straw hat trimmed in moro
serVlceable and less frivolous materials
than thoSe used month ago, will be pre-
scrlped by the maker of the gown. Thus is
the balance preserved The felt hats to he
| worn during the next two months are not
Oh course, heavy and dark; they are usually
tourist and sombrero or military shapes
| ne mlillary Shapes, by the way, should be
CHOSEN with caution. For, although we are
| patriotic and eager to serve those who have
| risked their lives for their country and
| ours, yet there are better ways of showing
| 1t than by adopting their hats shaped Nth
! out modification. Spangled hats. or hats
| trimmed with jet, are very popular They
| were little too heavy to wear during the
summer months, and are therefore quite
fresh now. although most of them were
added to the wardrobes last spring A
| small black hat Is always a safe invest
ment and generally carries off a gown of
| any shade
Modish and Light Weight.
Besides the New York women who don
| lightweight cloth gowns at this season of
| the year and eschew shirt waists, there are
| also other women who also eschew shirt
waists, but who take kindly to gay silks,
| crepons, yelling and wool grenadines.
! These lightweight materials are really
| more suitable for autumn, and gay colors
seem suited to the changing foliage Yet
one can distinctly see in this cosmopolitan
| city the dividing line between the two WAYS
of dressing for this season of the wear
Only yesterday two New York women came
| in town for days shopping. One wore
| taffeta silk with plaid of white and a sort
of magenta pink Qt Is pretty shade. al
though there are no adjectives to make it
| sound so). with cheInisette of white lace
| over white satin. and a black straw hat
trimmed with feathers and faced with
| white straw The other wore black broad
! cloth gown, which she had brought over
from Paris a month ago, to be worn this
autumn. 1t was most simply made, and its
only trimming was tiny steel buttons. Her
| hat was a small affair of jet which turned
| back from her face, and had large jet
| bowknot on the left side. Both gowns
were beautiful and contrasted admirably
Of gowns seen the streets of our metrop-
| oils during the fall Of the year.
| MABEL BOYD.
| Cleaning Laces and Ribbons.
| From Harper's Bazaar