The Indianapolis journal., 1898-12-11
FOR FEMININE READERS
HATS AND GOWNS WORN DY FASH
IONABLE MAIDS AND MATRONs.
DressmaIxing in India Causes No Trou-
BILE to the Wearer-Restiesxnes of
Amerfcans~-Odds and Ends.

The French skirts for the winter are ex-
tremely varied in style says the fashion
writer of the New York Post. The circular
f1ounce we have had with us for two sea-
sons, but there are constantly being added
new models cut in three and five as well as
two parts which give particularly pretty
fare to the dip skirt. The circular model
with a tablier or pointed overdress is very
graceful, especially for those who require
the effect of long lines; however, there are
shapes and designs to suit every figure.
The sheath form about the hips is uni
versal, however, and imperative for all
skirts, whatever may be the shape and ar
rangcment below, and every sort of frill,
f1ounce, strap, band and buckle trimming.
point, panel plating or any kind of decora-
ton that can give a frou-frou effect around
the skirt is notably and decidedly en- evil
dence
Louis XIV coats for reception and opera
wear also small jackets with rounded fronts,
and entire overdresses and redingote-shaped
tea gowns are made of woven guipure lace,
forming a single, perfectly shaped and Joined
garment, which is worn over a satin model
its precise shape. Some of the elegant tea
gowns made of this lace are oddly finished
with choux and plaitings of black tule, with
long scarf ends of the same edged with deep
crimped frills. The ends reach to the hem
of the underskirt
In marked contrast to the sweeping cape
models that fall in curving f1ounces over the
dress skirt are the graceful little pelerines,
and stole-fronted or fichu-shaped collets of
sable, sealskin, chinchila Persian lamb,
sea otter and very dark mink, or soft feecy
marten, these of one fur alone, or combined
with a contrasting pelt with fur-tail fringes
to match, and often further enriched with
silk cord and bead appliques points and me-
dallions of very expensive passementerie.
Rosettes of velvet or satin are much used
by French milliners. The newer ones are
oval in shape, and a tiny frilled edge is su-
perimposed. On many of the white or red
felt hats worn in Paris these rosettes are
as a rule the only form of decoration used.
Many OF the dainty sleeves of evening toi-
lets are so short that they look like minia
ture ballet skirts Endless little shoulder
conceits are created with a tiny puff of sat
in, scrap of rich lace, long slender spray
of shaded roses and foliage. a dropping and
standing cluster of satin bows, and often
there are mere shoulder STRAPS covered
with costly jeweled passementerie, glitter
ing with fringes of the same, that fall over
the top of the arm. Again are seen little
sleeves formed of wide velvet ribbon and
lace frillS, accordion-plaited silk muslin
falling in a straight ruffie, or caught butter
fly fashion with a knot of the muslin, in
the heart of which sparkles a quaint orna-
ment set with real gems. A narrow satin
strap, covered with jeweled paSsementerle,
on full-dress gowns encircles the curve of
the shoulders. and is used on dresses cut
low and rounding in the neck, the shoulders
showing plainly between these straps and
the jeweled band which goes up over the
neck quite separate from the straps beyond.
Red in very glowing colors from poppy
to deep "Jacque" rose and Burgundy shades,
Is more than ever worn this season both
here and abroad, in hats, little French bon
nets, fur-trimmed jackets, capes, redin-
goteS, tea gowns, evening toilets, and even
gloves and silk petticoats. There are women
who would render themselves unpleasantly
conspicuous if they ventured to wear even
SO much as cherry tie under their chins.
There are others who would look less con-
spicuOuS than these if they appeared in a
costume entirely red. We cannot say that
1t is only the brunette the blonde who
will look well in red. There are blonde wom-
en- who look badly III a stiff. high, white lin
en- collar; there are brunettes with olive
compilations who look well in them There
are those who look conspicuous in deepest
mourning. When red is becoming and suits
the wearer. it is generally a remarkably
good selection. Therefore, if one is in doubt
this season as to whether it would be best
to get another black coat. or tan, or gray
one to wear with the handsome black gown,
perhaps the very thing to brighten and i'm
prove the appearance would be a ruby-red
jacket. with black Persian lamb revers and
collar, with black braid applique trimmings
elsewhere. 1t must be decided however by
experiment.