The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1898-11-29
THE NEW FURS.
Costly Garments-Combina
tions Are Worn.

1 Often a wealthy woman will pay
four prices for a fur garment on con-
lition that il shall not be duplicated.
The dealer may not break faith, but
somehow the secret leaks out, and 4
rival may produce one so very near
the first that it seems difficult to think
it a mere coincidence.
There was a time when to have a
plain jacket. coat or cape was enough.
1t was lined with quilted satin, and
had a small turn-down collar. Not
so now. No self-respecting lady will
even look at fur garment that has
not more Of luxury than plain, simple
fur. There must be rolls and bands
Of other fur set upon the fur garment.
The collar must be a spreading ruff,
fur without and fur within, with per-
haps the edge bound with a different
kind. Jabot fronts are made Of fur,
and serpentine rufiles are seen on
Others.
The fur capes are cut in two distinct
styles, says a New York fashion corre-
spondeut. One is narrow empire
shape, fitted closely to the shoulders
and hanging almost without folds.
The other has the military form, but
is very full, enough so to fall in deep
folds. The military style is the one
having the fur jabot down the front.
Some Of the empire shapes have SER
pentine ruffies reaching to the throat
and all around the bottom. These are
certainly stylish. Some have yokes
with Van Dyked points of different
kind of fur, and really 1t would be
easier to say what is not than what
is to be in the matter of fur trim
mings.
Bands, rolls and all sorts OF applica-
tions of fur will be used on the woolen
gowns for winter more than ever
before. A new effect has been found
in using narrow rolls of close, furlike
beaver and curled astrakhan-like
braid and applying i to skirts and
full costumes in curved and other fan
ciful designs. The new wool coats,
with their close frieze effects, look
remarkably well and rich with such
trimming.
The furs of the next season are,
first and dearest, sable, next seal, then
ermine ard mink, black marten, Per-
sian lamb, beaver, tibet moufon and
chinchilIa. besides all the foxes; and
for trimmings bear, black, gray and
white lynx, and last, but not by any
means least, Alaska sable. This is
one of the handsomest as well as most
satisfactory furs for band trimming.
There are rainbow tints glinting in
the long black hairs and soft browns,
shading to black in the underlying
fur. These qualities seem to adapt
II to any color and any complexion.
Ladies viii scarcely credit it, but cats
and rats and dogs and monkeys are
all laid under contribution for their
furs. as well as the animals mentioned
above.
While combinations Of two or more
styles of fur are made in many of the
most costly garments, those made Of
one fur only are far more elegant
and refined Black or very dark furs
are favorites, and will. in this respect,
fit in admirably with the new depart
ures in dress goods, which are over
black. Some very hand
some blouse jackets for yousg ladies
are made of broadcloth, or perhaps
velvet, and lined throughout with fur.
The revers are so arranged as to show
the fur lining, and on moderate days
the whole front will be rather os-
tentatiously thrown open to show
the fur. The sleeves are much small
ar-St. Lonis Renubic.