The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1898-06-10

Record.
Should Columbus and his contemporaries
come on ghosty cruise over the cours,
/ they took more than four centuries agt
they would have no difficulty in recogniz
ing the old city of St. James. Beside /
our Boosted San Augustine is an infant il
arms. and 1t was growing trif1e gray anC
weary when the Pilgrim Fathers frs
sighted Plymouth Rock. What a check
cred career it has had since that autumn
day, in 1914, when Don Diego de Velasquei
christened 1t in honor of Spai's patron
saint! Ponce de Leon lived here before hi
began searshing for the fountain of eter
nal youth Cortez sailed from this place
| to the conquest of Mexico. Juan de
| Grijalva made 1t his base of supple wher
| IN 1913 he started for the conquest Of
Yucatan. Narvaez recruited the 400 mer
here for the first invasion of FLORIDA
| all of whom were lostin the cypress
swamps of that land of promise and mys-
terry: and here De Sotos expedition tar
ried awhile, in 1928. Since in Santiago
the red and yellow flag of Spain was first
raised for the conquest of the two Ameri-
cas- 1t seems in the eternal fitness of
| things" that here the decisive naval bat
tie should be Fought which will forever
Danish the banner of blood and gold from
this side o fthe world
I visited Santiago a few weeks ago
as usual, with notebook and camera. In
previous letter I told you about the
n nxyipt1 al oh IL
the open sea into the harbor, pursuing a
sinuous course past the MORO and other
between low hills and broad meadows,
all the time so close to shore on either side
that you sem tobe navigating an inland
river, till suddenly you turn a sharp angle
Of the hills and enter thebroad and shelf
cred bay which old seamen call one of
themost magnificent in theworld. 1t is
not so big as the bay of Rio Janero, and
not so beautiful in some respects, but
like the Brazilian harbor, it is studded
with islets and mountains are encamped
around it. The water is too shallow for
large vessels to approach it's wharves. and
steamers anchor a mile or more from shore
The weatherbeaten quartermastter in the
forecastie applies the match to his brass
twelve FOUNDER, and hardly have the re-
verebra!tioins died away among the hills
before the steamer is surrounded by a
swarm of boatmen in queer little canoes.
clamoring to land passengers and their
luggage. But unlike other West Indian
ports. there is nobody bathing in the
luminous waters, and not an urchin Of
fers to dive for coins. The harbor is full
Of sharks-big, hungry ones, of the man
eating variety. You may count dozens
Of them from the deck of the vessel es-
pecially at night. So extremely phosphor-
ant is the water that when the wind blows
every ripple makes little sparks of fire
in the darkness. A fish swimming through
it has the same effect as the wind. leav-
ing a trail of fire behind him like the tail
OF comet. Every big stationary spot Of
phosphorescent light you see is caused by
a shark, lazily moving his fins as he lies
in wait for a meal. They are the tigers
of the ocean, the terror of the local boat
men. However good swimmer a man
may be, he has no chance for his life in
these waters. To fall overheard is simply
to be torn limb from limb without rising
once to the surface.
Landing at the wharf you are instantly
beset by the drivers of half a dozen VOL
antes and victorias. whose antiquated We
hicles compose the entire wheel transit
Of Santiago; and they fan to secure a
passenger unless it be an unusually YER
dant "Gringo," because the steep STREETS
are so atrociously paved that everybody
that does not ride a horse or mule prefers
70 trust his own two feet. The hills which
enclose Santiago on three sides. rising in
green terraces from the waters edge TO
the farther mountains, are beautiful %
Ook upon, and afford excellent drainage .
TO the city. but are no end Of a nuisance
for daily climbing. Starting at the surf
inc. the narrow. stony streets run sharply .
up 80 feet or more. and appear TO have
never been repaired since the days Of Va /
azquez. Tropical rains have washed great +
sulhes down them, in some places several .
'eet deep, and the traffic of nearly four
centuries mas uprooted the original cob
ole-stones and worn dangerous pitfalls
md man-traps. The street which our con-
'ul lives in tone Of the principal thorough
ares) is not passab;e a all for vehicles.
Tor for hCrsemen after dark. and to wax
through il at any time IS almost az me
fsk Of your neck. Most OF the narrow
treets are lined with cement sidewalks
rom ten 70 fifteen inches wide; but Others
ave no sidewalk a. az, and In them
PEDESTRIANS are obliged 10 take the road.
.odging donkeys, carts and naked calld-
en- The latter are always to be en-
counterd. without a rag Of clothing on
hem, playing in the streams o. dry
-ater that percolzte through the broken
tones. Il IS no wonder t1at rhis Cd ,
.ty : 50 VIGOROUSLY unhealthy. House ,
lives and servants come 10 their doors
nd throw OUT Sop aud garbage q ali I
OFT into the street. regardless OF passers &
nd playing children; and with al this :
lth fostering n the tropical SIN. and 10 :
rect cleaners but the carTion b.-t-the {
1-p-fse Is not thai yellow fever makes &
4 annual vlsic and carries OF many VIC z
ms. but that & does aot remain TIE year :
co3ad. {
4 more Ezvoratfe fed for TIE STUDY %
zasony could hardy be toa13 man r
zu1sago de Cu5a. where ''liy1nE pictures g
bound II the -7zars-s-e1ra---y - 4
IS soT< 1o- boys and glris 81 ia@ .ovzsr
asses under - or Z yearz = age oasz 2
lought entirely xs1peralaSls- Whea * a
ms n these regions. aid aoE Z, soes :
IN during certain sesspus, re-ulzsl.r s.
= q ;tse o7sEs slzEs ssa2 IKE ~.zs0Es =
heaven we're cpenes.' sfsess na--.~. u
-rpezsigcu3ar slieys becone aae5. wIra 3
-reu-s % such irnpets0sssy sszz 10 ore =
= cross uhs.n o. foot AID svez ho<ss- 8