New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1898-02-02
THE COOKS AND THEIR ART
MANY WONDERFUL THINGS MADE OF
MUTTON FAT.


GOOD THINGS TO EAT MAsQUERADING IN ALL
KINDS OF wAYs-DoNATIoNs TO CHARITIES.
The Culinary Exhibition OF the societe cunairs
Philanthropque-wh has from an initial MEM
bership OF sixteen on April T. 1870, steadily grown to
its present commanding and influential proportions
presented yesterday a commngling or many won
derful things The odor Of peppermint, rose ana
mutton-fat: a long vista OF columns twined with
green. ovcrhung with bunting. blue and white and
red and bounded either side by rows and rows
Of French and American flags, three long tables.
draped with white bordered By greens and laden
with culinary triumphs worthy poets dream:
strains OF gay waltz music. the soft murmur of
Gallic voices saying appreciatively, TRES bieni
C'est joli. Quel bonheur" interpolated now ard
then by unmstakabe American voices and
phrases.
From IT'S inception this society has maintained .
culinary exhibition which has always succeeded In
securing a more than ordinary patronage w1lls
furtherng the interests and disseminating tho
knowledge Of gastronomic art. large crowd ~
spectators thronged the halls OF the Grand Central
Palace where the exhibit was held An the big
restaurants and clubs. well every private
chef OF note. represented. The most ornate
pieces were made OF mu,,on-ta,. which holds is
own better than lard
But even the good things that were 20 be eaten
later the cooks ball wonderful 10 a degrea
There were juicy hams Incorporating AZ violins
pastoral scenes. enormous samons. ba-llng IN arti
fetal lakes. their plump sides miracles % decora-
ton. There quails snugly eusconced among
flowers confections ~ Strawberries that would
have deceived the elect. gaoes OF every fruit and
flower. and vegetables OF all sorts In aspic.
While Delmonicos veteran chef. Charles Ran
hofer was as usual most largely and artistcsliy
represented, he closely pressed by 4. ShuDsch.
chef OF the Buckingham: Jean Roth. chef ot the
Hotel Netherand; Edouard Lapcrrrique OF Cate
Savarn F. Rassat chef OF Hotel vendons.
and s Stein chef at the Savoy. Two pieces
by the latter constantly surrounded by ad-
miring crowds. lie Tunnel de St Gothard" and
The Yukon River. Klondike" In tho latter lone
and eafess pine tree. white with snow kept watch
and ward over a number OF cheerful prospectorv
advancing gayy by boat 20 seek their fortunes An
office with scales already In evidence. whore
the yields could be accurately determined
The Arkwright Club has evidently chef Of
merry mind. II his creation stands in evidence. II
was entitled "Fantaisie. Pig. Funeral style"
tender sucking pig lay upon hts back In a white
coffin. with candles head and feet. a wreath Of
flowers around his neck. broken pipe above his
br east. and series Of mourning doves seated
doorousy about the edge Of his bier.
SherTys late chef Ernest Deshayes. contributed
avant courier OF 81. Valentines Day. entitled
"L'Amour Nous Guide" while Sherry was royalty
represented by an exquisite Gothic tower in pink
glace royale-all done by hand
A pink and white parssol from Maresis much
admired, also a Norwegian chalet. twelfth CEN
tury from the Cafe Savarin.
The New-York Athletic Club had beautiful crc-
alton Of pure white glace representing lie Trt-
omphe de Mercury" In tho centre o. tho arch OF
triumph were two gadiators engaged In combat
while on the top beautifully modelled hsurea
representing wrestlers, fencers. runners. oarsmen
and ball-players.
one OF the most ambitious pieces, demonstrating
an accurate historic knowledge Of costumes arms
and events was steele EIistorque les Tros Repub-
liQues' by T.. Shubach, chef OF tho Buckingham.
This gave the story OF William Tell In detail.
Among other exhibitors whose contributions wefo
much admired the Grand Union Hotol. y.
Roster chef; Aston House. Charles Percival. Hon.
man club 81. Marc Hotel, Schall and Co, Maroor-
ough Hotel New York club, University Club II. II.
Cook A. Coder. Albemarle Hotel. Hotel Gerard.
Windsor Hotel, Brevoort House Hotel Martin.
Nadorf-As 2. G. Mazetti. A. Cahassud. J.
Wanamaker and FRANCOIS Coriier
In its thirty-fve years OF usefulness tho socictc
Culinare Phi anthrOpique's record In dispensing all
has been q commeudahle one. and. while it, Held j.
defined and limited to It's membership and their
for the support OF the French Hospital, the French
Orphan Asylum and the Little Sisters OF the Poor,
the latter receiving whatever OF the culinary prepa-
rations remain unsod after the ball supper each
]