The herald., 1898-11-13

NEW YORK, Nov. 7.-(t,pecial Core
spondence to The Herald) The first view
OF the really elegant toilets which have beer
in process of construction in the work room
of first class modistes will be given to tn,
public on the first night of the horse show
The beautiful gowns worm by the womer
in the box in our large illustration are tn,
very latest note of elegance, and will b
copied by those whose business it is to fol
low afar off. The first toilet is composed O
separate bodice and skirt, the latter O
rich black Lyons velvet. The bodice O.
white satin is covered with ecru guipure il
corselet form. A band of black velvet out
lines this corselet, and ruches of black
mousseline de sole cross the white satin
plastron in V shape. A large bow of black
velvet is set beneath the chin. The very
novel sleeves are of guipure over satin and
have band of black velvet lengthwise
This combination of black velvet with white
satin IS one OF the revivals, for thirty years
ago 1t was the very acme of elegance.
The second toilet is of violet cloth, supple
and fine as silk. The bodice closes under
the arm and is embroidered on chenille of
the same tint. In front it is cut out upon Il
square of white satin, tucked and framed
fur has knot of lace falling in u cascade in
the center of the front. Bands of the fur
ornament the tightly-fttng skirt, which is
absolutely without fullness, at the waist
band in the back.
The third gown is of black velvet trimmed
with ermine, another revival The skirt has
q group of tucks surmounted by band of
the fur. Another group of these tucks at
the top OF the skirt forms sort of COM
Dlnatlon of the corsage, which is also tucked
"A shawl collar of ermine passes over the
shoulders and closes in front with the little
head OF the animal. The chemsette is of
tucked white satin, and the velvet sleeves
are also tucked and finished by little head.
Passing from the extreme richness of
these gowns to the attire of "The Horse
Show Girl this year, we find a great con.
tiast. She is the chic young woman who
has good seat, not in the boxes, however.
but occupies it little. She is young and
strong and finds delight in promenadinp
around the ring with an escort who appre
ciates herself and her get-up. Her little
tan coat is perfectly cut and is a little long
er in front than on the sides and at the
back. 1t closes with large glass buttons
sewed on with gold cord, and huge bunch
OF vlolets gives the finishing touches to her
freshness and general charm.
There have been several bonnets pre
pared for this function, which are decorat
ed with strings, some of volets, some of
ribbon, others of straight bands of fur.
and still others of tule
All the novelties will be displayed during
this wonderful week, and then everyone
will proceed to adopt them.
GREEN STONES IN JEWELRY
Inc lad for green stones is growing. First,
Oh course, comes the emcrald-as valuable
as the diamond, and often more so. A flaw.
less emerald is rarely found and is very cost
~. Ihe rich deep color, so beautiful i'm
itseif, however, is not as becoming as that
OF stones OF lesser value. The chrysoprase.
Tor instance, which is lovely apple-green,
or the peridot, called sometimes the even
ing emerald. This last is a transparent leaf
green. The latest idea is to set this stone in
green enamel and surround the whole with
pearls or diamonds. The olivine and chry-
polite are varieties of the peridot. The aqua
marine, pale sea-green semi-precious stone,
is also coming into favor. These ar,
mounted in gold alone, OF with pearls. AL
lovely opal brooch l saw the other day was
surrounded by diamonds and olivines, the
yellowish green of the latter enhancing the
exquisite tints of the opal
Then there are odd charms for the watch
chains OF olivines combined with diamonds
in the forms of tortoises, frogs and scor-
pions. In the new jewelry, stickpins are
prominent, favorite designs being a small
wreath of leaves, large single leaf, coach
horn, mercury wings, flag, leafy branch,
various animals, different flowers, and semi
precious stones set with pearls or diamonds, !
as turquoise or moonstone.
At present a woman of fashion heralds her |
approach with the jingle of charms that |
hang from her watch or the long neck chain |
that is fast becoming an indispensable ad- |
junct to the toilet. For the watch charm
there are, besides the ones mentioned above,
many other designs, as pig, a four-leaf clo-
yer in crystal locket, a fox terrier, banjo,
fiddle, salmon, or lucky bean with small
diamond in the top. New designs in brooches
show, first a triple coil, second butterfly
lowering over a blossom, third heart of