davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
Copyright, 1893, by g. N. Baldwin.

BRUSSELS, Nov. 1.-THE plain skirt
Is now entirely hors de concours, even
the ultra conservative in dress, a class con-
sisting mostly of Americans who have
heretofore worn the untrimmed' skirt and
plain tight jacket with a chic entirely their
own. have laid aside their rigid rules in
favor of some garniture, however slight, to
harmonic with the requirements of mod
ern taste. This applies principally to the
tailor-made gown, the fit of which is as
immaculate as ever and is enhanced only
by the applied trimming in the shape of
~stitchings, straps or cloth applications.
The fashions set during some important
social functions which took place last
spring still hold good, except that the skirt
has become more scant. If possible. over
the hips and back, doing away with any
folds whatever.
OF course the fit of these gowns must
be immaculate. and the material must
needs be of the finest, for the slightest
flaw or inartistic line, which folds miebr
merclfully conceal, stands out in bold re-
lief IN this tight garment. 1t is the acme
OF a tailors skill to fashion the modern
shiIl- ana Inc GfaceS must have layishIv
endowed the fortunate wearer who looks
well in it. ~
One triumph of the taIlor's art is so adj
nlraply set OF by the Junoesque figure of
the wearer that 1t must not forego men
uon; Satin cloth of that new and peculiar
shade OF gray termed nickel" forms the
skirt and jacket. both of which are lined
with ~changeable turquoise blue and gray
taneta. Inc skirt has a short but very
ught yoke. which closes at the back with
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
THE ULTRA LONG SKIRT.
Its Management Is Bad Enough In
the House, hut Hopeless In
the Sfr.

one OF the most remarkable exhibitions of
tie present season is the vain effort of a
wei dressed woman TO hold up her ultra
long skirt. says the New York Sun. OF
course, fashion DEGREES that the skirts shall
not be lifted. that they shall flop and trail
en- the sidewalks. and that the wearers
snail assume an air of bland Indifference
10 their rate. But it Is Il brave woman who
carries out fashions decree. No one who
hasn't tried it can understand the difficulty
OF looking indifferent when one is sweep
ing trailing i1ounces along wet
ard across dirty streets. Even il ones
rank account makes one indifferent to the
ing upon Il front or side breadth of one $
own gown and playing havoc generally
lends a shade of anxiety to a woman's ex-
preston.
The new skirts are bad enough in the
house. for they must be extravagantly long
IN front and at the sides. as well as at the
,%am ~ my d genus can manipulate
laem gracefully and move in q manner
more digniiied than a scramble: but on the
street they are an abomination. Many
women try to effect Il compromise by trail
ing a germ collecting back breadth behind
them. but cutting the skirt short enough
IN front TO assure safety in locomotion. the
er zee not ii disastrous: one must accept all
OF noihlfls-elther wear the skirt uncom-
ICrtabiy long. all around, and be in the
lasnlon, or wear a sensible short walking
skirt, and a defiantly Independent eXpres.
sion.
There rave been many ways of holding
up ones skirts, and a crowd of women, on
a rainy day. has always been pitiful sight.
Not one woman in a thousand knew the
art OF deity raising the skirt Just high
enough to clear the ground. and yet allow
ing 1t to fall in graceful folds. The sturdy,
elderly woman firmly seized her skirt at
both sides and lifted it high and dry. There
was something imposing and t-horoughgoing
about that method. The average woman
grabbed at her skirts. somewhere among
the folds. and determinedly held IN mari
OF 1t. while the rest trailed Imply in the
dirt. Occasionally a girl adopted the Pari-
sian fashion and caught up her skirt to-
ward the front, on the right side, awin
the fullness around to that point. That is
the method most fetching. if cleverly man.
aged. and the Parisians make 1t a fine art,
but 1T demands skill of a high order.
NOW, no amount of practice upon any one
OF those systems is of avail to the fashions
ABLY sowned woman. Even the most skill
fui manipulation fails to rescue the new
skirt. and the futile efforts made by Fifth
avenue promenaders are tremendously en-
PERTAINING to an onlooker. There's nothing
Tor 1t but to allow the skirt to trail reck-
lessly and to resign ones self to fate and
fashion. The woman who can do that with
absolute serenity wrings admiration even
from the critics who are loudest in abuse
OF fashions latest freak.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27

four large buttons Of delicate workman
ship. To this yoke is attached the grad
ually widening serpentine skirt, which is
cut very long but without a train. The
hem is decorated with silk s%titchings and
faced on the inside with a dust ruffle OF
The short jacket fits without fold or
wrinkle and closes the double breasted
front with buttons like those at the plaquet
of the skirt. The sleeves are tight to the
shoulder. where a slight and graceful full
ness is formed by an inserted cap attached
The revers and collar of nickel cloth
are also stitched and reveal the high collar
and loose front of the white taffeta blouse,
richly decorated with white ribbon ruch-
ings. The elegance of the gown is further
enhanced by a boa made of a whole blue
foxskin, the long brush and two feet
dangling over one shoulder and the head
and ~forefeet over the other. A plain round
muff is carried with this boa. The head
gear consists of a dainty toque of tucked
gray velvet and crown of gray silk, with
scrolls of white ruched ribbon; a short
white plume is fastened at one side with a
buckle which matches the buttons on the
W
While grays and tans remain the pre-
greens have the lead among dark coIors
in dress materials as we'll as millinery, a
brilliant fieck of color sometimes greets
our eyes in the shape Of a gown or hat
Of bright scarlet.
The variety of beautiful cloths now so
fashionable look particularly well in the
above mentioned vivid reds and made up
jackets.
The costume of our illustration is of
bright red satin cloth and is particularly
suitable for a young lady whose bright
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
Boy Doll. in yariou. Lands.

The percentage Of males in the doll pop
ulation varies considerably in various coun-
tries. A large doll manufacturer, whose
business enables him to keep a pretty care
tuI census OF this part of the population.
believe that in America at present not more
than 5 per cent Of the dolls are made up
as men or boys. In France the percent
in England it is slightly higher. while in
Germany it is frequently as high as Is or
~ per cent. A slight increase in the pro-
portion of male dolls is expected in the
United States owing to the late war. The
center of doll civilization is. of course. Paris
robes and jewels run well into four fig
ures. The most expensive dolls. 1t may not
be generally known. are equipped with pho
n~ographs. which supply them with an elab-
crate vocabulary. With a little skillful ma
nipulation one of these dolls can carry on
quite a varied conversation concerning the
weather. She can also inquire as to the
health of those she meets. compliment
them on their good looks. and send re-
cards to the family. all in the most polite
and adyhke. or, rather. doll-like, manner.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
C0RDING IN MILLINERY.
1t Obtain' Z Great Vogue at the New
> K Horse Show-Fur
TOUues.

Cording is important in the new millin-
cry. Hats. as we'll as toQues, crowns no
less than brims. and both felts and yelyets.
make use of it. Tucks are also popular.
and stitching. US in gowns, is employed
e~xtravagantly. Huge velvet flowers nodded
triumphantly over many pretty faces at
the Horse show. which means, of course,
that their success for the rest of the sea-
son is assured. Velvet violets also have the
stamp of Horse show approval. Next to
all-black hats. or very highly colored hats
topping off al all-biack costume, what are
known as the mode shades hold AN en-
viable place in millinery. With Il neck
piece of the same shade they make an
BILE finish to an all-black. or, in
deed. any colored costume. and impart to
it. upon occasion. 4 pleasing variety. White
fetl Is fashionable for strictly evening hats,
though. as always. there are women who
persist In sporting 1t In midday. Fur
toques are the very latest millinery fancy,
even though the temperature is hardly
equal to them as yet AS i rule, they are
combined with velvet the brim being OF
the fur and the crown of velvet. or vice
versa. while velvet violets supply the chief
trimming. A~strakhan. sable and chinchilla
are the pelts most used for purposes Of
headgear. The quill grows longer as the
season advances. Some of those seen re-
Gently must measure h~alf-yards. If not
yards. instead of inches. and are CORE
spondingly ~inconvenient TO all who may
happen to come in contact with them.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
FOR THIN PEOPLE,
hou are Advised to Ent Before You
Go to Bed If You Wish to
Get Fat.


Here is good advice to thin peopIe who
want to grow fat. 1t seems contrary to
all our early training, but is full of good
common sense and comes from q prom
lnent physician. His suggestions follow.
IL You are thin and want to put flesh
Spon YOUR Dones. eat before going to bed
i0r the night. Physiology teaches us thar
tnere Is a wasting away of tissue while n
person Steps as well as when he is awake.
and this being so there should be contin,
uouS nourtshment. Food taken at dinner
or IN the early evening is always digested
az me tlne or retiring. and the activity
OF lhe process of assimilation continues
until long after We are asleep,
IF the tissues are not noiIrisbed they
are pulled down by the wasting process.
and as a result sleeplessness ensues. On
a full stomach. however. or with some food
to sustain the system, there is a building
up of the tissue.
Man is the only reature I know CT
who does not deem it proper to sleep on
a full stomach. The infant. In this re-
Spect. fnStinctively cries to be fed at night.
showing that food is necessary during that
time as well as through the day, and that
left too long without it causes a discomfort
which 1t makes known by crying.
There is no need for rest in the df-
gestive organs. provided the quantity of
food eaten is not above normal during the
twenty-four hours. Too long intervals be-
tween meals are bad for the tomach
from the fact that the cessation and re-
sumption of work of the digestive organs
tend to enfeeble them.
"A moderate working of the organs
through the twenty-four hours is much
more beneficial. / would advise those suf-
fering from insomnia to take something
to eat before going to sleep always. A glass
of milk and bread, meat or any digestible
food will do
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
Home Decorating.

1t would seem that with each year our
ideas change i'm regard to what is dec
orative in the home. 1t is not long since
private rooms: clocks likewise fell into
disrepute. But to-day a timepiece is part
of the furnishing. while photographs are
plentiful. says the Delineator. Frames are
not SO well liked as formerly. The cards
are set up or mantels. bookcases. against
vases and wherever they may stand IN
right, and they add much to the homelike
atmosphere. The impetus photography has
received from the amateurs has been re-
sponsible for many attractive souvenirs for
the library. For the safe keeping of those
pleasant reminders picture albums are now
procurable. three pictures being slipped in
to each leaf. Only recently has a photo
is among the most priced of the belongings.
The maiden's own den Is decorated with
photographs tacked to the walls, the screen.
If there is one. and even the panels of the
door. the pictures being arranged in
CLOUDS.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
skating

Pretty skating costumes have made
their appearance at the shops. The skirts
Just clear the ankle. and the jackets are
wonderfully brief. The prettiest ones are
in the gayest cloths. or are combination
Of cloth and velvet. A graceful costume
that will make an effective showing on
the ice has 4 black velvet jacket with a
wide turn-down collar and revers h
jacket opens in front to a point. to reveal
n vest of sable that continues in a high
collar that hugs the ears The skirt is of
scarlet cloth. with a narrow band of sable
about the foot. The coat is trimmed with
four of the brightest buttons-wonderful
limitations Of the buttons worn by the
Dutch men and maids on the frozen canals
of Holland. says the New York Times.
There is a little turban of velvet. trimmed
with sable heads and tails. and a melon
shaped muf of sable. with just the tinicst
openings through which to slip tbs hands.
made to complete this costume. The skat-
ing costume should be trig and plain. and
wise women do not appear on the ice with
fluttering feather boas and ribbons. A lit
tie jacket designed for wear with different
skirts. that would be very convenient for
skating. Is bloused about the waist. has
short, close-titting basaues and n pointed
hood. the whole resembling a woodcutter's
smOck and hood.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27

in cooking the tomatoes separately is that
the pulp breaks UP more thoroughly than
when it is distributed in the stock, When
the bones are boiled clean strain the stock.
add the tomatoes and half a teacup OF
boiled rice. or the same quantity of cold
boiled macaroni. cut in minute rings; Pep
per. salt. q dash of Worcestershire sauce
and, if liked, a very little thickening.
Or some of the turkey can be dressed for
a hot dish in this way: Pick some Of the
scraps and smaller pieces. Make a dress
heaped dessertspoonfuls of flour, which has
first been blended smooth in a little cold
water, a full desSertspoonful of butter, pep
per, salt, and a fourth of a ~teaSpoonful Of
mustard, with a white stick of celery
minced fine. Put the turkey and celery into
the dressing as soon as ii has thickeneG,
and when they are quite heated dish on
a platter. Poach some eggs carefully and
lay them on the minced turkey to be served
with it. The nicer bits of turkey can be
used for tea, as 4 relish, in this case. Serve
stewed turnips and mashed potatoes.
Drowned in the oven. with the minced tur-
key
grated as a relish, and some can be grated
and dressed as a salad. Always keep the
hambone. for If it is not convenient to
back upon bean soup: and to bean soup a
hambone is Indispensable. Grated or finely
chopped ham. laid between buttered bis
cult. is very nice for the chiidren's lunch.
With the stray stalks of celery that have
been left you can make an appetizing addi-
ton TO your vegetables. If you should have
cold beef or cold meats of any kind. Cut
the stalks across in half-inch pieces, and
boil tender in a very little water. When the
celery is strained do not throw out the
water. for it will have a fine flavor and can
be added 10 the mex days soup. Make
dressing In the same way as for the minced
turkey. only using a gill of milk and pros
portionately less -four. with a pinch of
powdered mace and q few drops of lemon
juice: 1t is best to set aside the mince pie
that Is left over and substitute some simple
dessert for the following day; then by re-
heating the pie when 1t is served later II
Will be quite as appetizing as when first
served. Also put away the nuts. for while
a nut remains in sight someone will eat 1t,
n nuts are not to be trified with.
The richest cakes. especially the fruit
cakes, which will keep Indefinitely, may be
kept for the future relishes and only the
palmer kinds and. the cut pieces that will
quickly dry: be served the days following
the special feasting. and If an accumulation
of slices should become dry they may be
steamed and served in the form Of pudding
with some tempting sauce.
If there is gravy left. but no fowl. turn
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
Fall ElOMerN.

In present offerings of swell retail millin-
cry departments. flowers are not neglected.
They may be seen in combination with
dainty lace. winter fur and soft, rich many
hued velvet. Foliage is used rather spar
;ngly. Gorgeous velvet roses with violet
leaves find very general favor. as do roses
combined with the lighter shades of silk.
The larger the flowers themselves. the more
satisfactory they seem to be from the wear
er's viewpoint. In fact. not a few of the
present offerings out-nature nature. both in
size and b~rilliancy of hue. Other flowers
are popular. yet none so much so as the
rose. The widespread of veivets for
all sorts and descriptions of hat trimming
has forced flowers toward the background
somewhat. although a good assortment of
the counterfeit blossoms is an essential
feature of all well regulated stocks.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
Louis Nnpoleon.s Bride.

From the London Chronicle.
The French government Is proposing to
sell for building purposes the chateau and
park of Villeneuve rEtang, near Saint
Cloud. The ParisianS do not like the idea.
Since they fear hat other and more inter
esting portions of the beautifully wooded
country which surrounds Paris may be
dealt with in Il similar way. But, although
there is nothing really historical about the
chateau, it has at least one curious remin-
iscence. 1t was at Villeneuve rEtang that
Napoleon Ill, snatched Il brief and almost
clandestine honeymoon with the Empress
Eugene. With absolute secrecy the cha
teau was got ready. and In the evening of
the wedding the emperor took his bride
thither in 4 phaeton which he drove him.
self: So quietly was the whole thing man
aged. indeed. that most of the inhabitants
of Saint-Cloud had no idea that their i'm
perial master and mistress had flown.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
CLEANING UP.
A Necessary Preliminary to Maxim
the Kitchen an Attract
i've Place.

Next 10 having a clean range and a gooo
fire, it is most important that all pots
pans. saucepans and other cooking utansiI.
should he scrupuious!y clean. As success.
III cooking often depends on this point i
is well thar the mistresa of the house
should know something OF sculIery work
Tor unframed servants never seem TO have
any idea OF The, proper methods OF clean.
ing. even when they can cook Il little.
l. cannot but.think that q few practica
directions may prove useful 10 my readers
Ject.
Whether in s~cuIlery work or cookery the
ilrst thing 10 do is 10 collect all the Utsnz
sis and ingredients that may be required
1t Is most annoying have to stop in the
MIDST or making a cake, Tor instance. whei'
ones hands are toury. in order to go ano
search for baking powder. perhaps nndinp
uhs supply run short. ana then waitnr
that little store around the corner. tbas
losing time and patience.
10 clean an iron saucepan a pail of hot
water. SOFA. flannel and sand are required
III there be any SCOT adhering 10 the eX
terror. scrape it off with an Old knife. theI
put the saucepan into the water. soap tht
flannel. sprinkle i little fine sand on il. anC
wash the utersil both inside and out. re-
moving all grease and remnants of food
oughly with a dry dishcloth. as II put away
damp the saucepan will rust The outside
but rot the handle. may be biack-leadeds
putting on the black lead with u smais
brush. rubbing it in with u second. and
polishing vita 4 third The saucepan may
now be busted inside. and placed upside
down on the pot-board. so that the aiT.
but no dust. may enter.
Some people when they desire to clean
a saucepan. rut it OF the fire to boil with
soda and water. but this is unwise. us The
bottom is liable to burn. If any vegetable.
etc, has adhered TO it.
To clean the lie. first wash 1t in a similar
manner to the saucepan with soap. soda
and a little sand, then apply whitening
mixed with water TO the consistency of
cream: let this dry on the tin. then polish
off. taking out the whitening from the
sary.
Tin saucepans are cleaned in the same
and dried, and then frightened with whit
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
A Golf Corner,

The latest craze among young women
TO the popular sport Is the golf corner. One
corner of the room occupied by the fair
enthusiast Is entirely filled with sticks and
other Implements employed in the game. II
the young woman Is an expert and has
been fortunate enough to win several med
ais and other trophies. these are tastefully
arranged upon a three-cornered table which
sets closely into a wall. Dangling from the
gas jet are the balls used in the victorious
games and the wall IS decorated with pho
toS of famous golfers. Those who are fond
of extremes have golf sticks shortened and
inserted in the spoke holes of small recep-
ton chairs as backs. The sticks are firmly
glued to the foundation and the crooked
ends show off very prettily when gilded
and turned in different directions in imita-
ton of the different positions in which they
are held to strike the ball.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27
FRENCH BLUE CLOTH GOWN FROM nARpeR.s BAZAAR

and with fullness at the waist If pre-
ferred.
The coat. like many of the later modeIs.
Is worn with u velvet belt slipped th4 ougn
ornamental buckles at each side. confirming
which Is made of geranium rose velvet.
Velvet bands trim one side OF the bust
TO the shoulder. where the coat. fastening
with silver buttons, curves away into i
cutaway form with rounded Louis XIV.
coat tails.
The sleeve is the newest two piece model
for tailor wear.
A rolling turban of rich blue velvet has
only one jeweied quill for a decoration.
Quantity of material-Cloth, 81 inches
wide. S yards: blue velvet, So yards; gera-
mum velvet. Il yard.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1898-11-27

A French blue cloth gown, with a trim
ming of rolled velvet bands>in a rich dark
shade, has the latest variation of the
seamless skirt, which reaches almost to
the knees. while the rest is n graceful
shaped %flounce. extending up the front Of
the skirt in the form of an apron panel.
The looped bands of velvet decorate the
apron in popular redingote effect, and the
of the fold indicates the out
line of the %fiounce, whose width at the
hem is four and a quarter yards. The
pattern furnished by Harper's Bazaar.
where the gown appears. gives directions
for making with j bias seam in the back