The times., 1898-06-19
Dangerously Captivating in
Their Fashionable Weeds.
SOMBER Wells ARE Ia 0)ED
The Summer Debutante md Her
FlOHers-A Linen Damask Woven
by Irish Looms Has Caught the
Fancy of the Princess of Wales
Ia All the Co.

ions in mourning TO a state where COM
mon sense aad beauty unite to rob the
black garments of half their injury and
ugliness. Except in the first weeks of
their bereavement a wife or mother can.
especially in this Summer time. almost
brighten into cheerfulness the heaviest
black, merely by the amount of white
now permitted about the suits of woe. A
white lisse cap and white net veil. a white
muslin tucker and folded collar and shir-
red white cuffs to the elbow give even a
widows grief a pleasing background
Taffeta silk. with what is called a dead
finish, is the most modish fabric for
Summer mourning dress. English crepe
has absolutely been relegated to Winter
wear among mourners. the long face veil
is worn only at a funeral, and the broad
crepe border has been removed from the
small black net masque that is some
times adopted with a bonnet. A rather
heavy net was at one time the customary
material for these little face protectors,
but with the coming Of warm weather
no small veil at all is worn
AiiIiners have been trying the effect
n
double row Of chenille dots. and women
whose hair cannot be controlled without
a veil wear such a protector. As to the
long rear veil. for Summer time. black
Brussels net is the thing. Il is cut to fal
clear 20 the dress hem, rounded up on
the sides and bordered with English crepe
for an inch, having a narrow fold Of
crepe inside Of that.
Such drapery IS cool, light in weight
and very impressive. and the bonnets
from which these wells hang are tall
small. and nearly always touched with
white This change in custom has
come about through the PRONUNCIATION
Of an edict in favor Of young unmar-
ried women wearing veiled bonnets. a
woman over eighteen now wears a bon
net and veil for a parent or sister or
brother.
In case Of the loss of a parent the
crepe-bordered veil Of net falls behind
clear 70 the dress hem. For sister or
brother the veil is not crepe-bordered,
and hangs only to the knees. The lit
tie bonnet from which it depends is
usually just a tuft Of black and white
roses. having bird wings or wired net
pieces outstanding and delicately pow
dered with the new lusterless paiettes
that are scarcely larger than pin heads
There is a tone Of cheerful resignation
about all these young lady bonnets thai
recommends them highly, and as few
faces can quite endure the dull black
GROWING Of silk and crepe, the widows
have lately adopted more white thar
ever in their yelled caps.
Silk crepe de chine, a handsome ma
terial called unburnished black poplin
black caucasienne and black linen and
duck are prime favorites in the list ot
novel mourning goods. These are one
and all Of very airy texture, or ar,
woven loosely. and for the second stag,
OF mourning, are made over white IN
derdresses.
Smart second mourning tailor suits ar
made Of black poplin and decorated witt
braid in which black and white thread
show in sharp contrasts. Braid is use,
largely in place of beading, and the usua
crepe bands on suits for fun mourning
der petticoats and muslins for women {
wear indoors are prettily trimmed with
pure white footing in place Of lace.
Latterly there has come into the mar
ket a hide5us but none the 5ess highly e.
timated creped leather used in the max
uD Of purses and card cases for the be
reaved. Il is handsomely mounted Wit
gun metal and is actually a fine ki
skin put through a process that gives
the appearance Of English crepe.
Something 70 be unreseryedly recon
mended is the mourning parasoI Of dea
finished tafle-a. tucked in fantastic line
and fitted with rather long stick Q
prettily carved teak wood. No frills an
fur5el0ws appear on these correct sun
shades though number Of them are lin
ed with black or a soft tone Of gray chi
fDn that s3ftens them as a backgrOun
FOR the face.
L is always with the woman in mourn
ing a serious problem how mos comforta
bly, and tastefulls 10 prepare her ward
reoe Of wash gowns.
Black linen, that washes safely as
tea cup. black linen grenadine and blac
pique are all at her disposal. beside blac
lawns and musliT}s. There Is in additio
TO these goods a black cotton crepe c
the market that ought 10 receive a gre;
deal Of enthusiastic attention. and III
are a temptation to any woman. Thos
woven on what is called the crumb grai
are rough surfaced, dull finished. ar
thick and rich as leather. They are meal
for belts, etc.
There is no passing without remar
the white armure saw edged milliner
ribbon. This has waving border ths
appears TO be finished with an embroiC
cry button hole stitch and is a new in
portation.
over in Paris. where the needle of fasl
ion is never true to any one pole. ii
hats for one season pitched down we
over the face are about to be rolled U
and back In due course we viii natl
rally follow this lead. and forewarned
forearmed; but for the next six montl
every woman can wear her side-eav,
straw with an easy mind. for 1t TAX,
that long for a new fashion to get oy,
10 US.
Now that the first great rush Of ware
robe replenishing is over, one has time
note the pretty whims of the mode. SON
Of which are striking and coquettishI
becoming. For example at the ends of II
ribs of the carriage parasols the wir,
thereof put forth markedly a full inc
are silvered or gilded. and each rib I
is completed with tiny ball of Ven
tan glass, carved ivory, or enamele
metal. The balls are no bigger tha
bread pills; still they add greatly to Il
are also quaint conceits in the handles
lively beauty Of the little sunshade The
are also quaint conceits in the handl
many. very great many have rath,
long shafts OF polished wood. cut in thr,
sides, colored a warm sealing wax n
and topped by big turquoise. A tass
is fiourishing for straight shafts of higl
ly-pOiished precious woods The polls
is given TO bring out the wood grat
bright and clear. and some of the m.
hogany handles are lovely in the extren