The times., 1898-12-18

ures of Bagdad, and Mecca. and Constan-
tinople, and Cairo; since the galleries re-
sounded with the talk of men who had
come from east and west and south and
north to the famous marts Of Damascus.
The Emperor saw later in the day an
other evidence of those changes under
which Damascus sis waxed feeble" and
is taken from being a great city, He
rode through the Gate of God past the
Moslem cemetery, to Meidan, where tie
pilgrim caravan starts for Mecca In
earlier days, before steamboats, ca led at
Jeddah, all pilgrims from Africa, Persia,
Central Asia and Turkey began their
journey from Meidan. The long street
that leads to the plain, between rows of
quaint houses, shops and ancient mos
ques, depends for its prosperity on these
annual gatherings. and its prosperity $
on the decline. A piors Mussulman of
the old school would no more t. ink of
performing the Hal, or pilgrimage, b.
steamboat than a Christian would thi k
OF praying by machinery. He sill
tramps or rides from Meidan. Bu. the
Mussulman of the old school. who will
have none of these 'infidel' aids to the
sanctity of green turban, is fast dying
out. The Algerian. the Tunisian, the
Persian, and even the Turk have abln-
doned Damascus. Hence, in some meas
ure at any rate. the air of poverty snd
decay in the street OF, the Hal.
1t is none the less most fascinating
street. unlike any within the city bounds.
The houses are fiat-roofed squares OF
white-washed mud, pierced with narrow
windows through which glance yelled
faces. The shops are many, and the
goods displayed on their shelves are va
rious, but grain seems to b. the prime
pal article of merchandise. Their are
scores of warehouses, with heaps of
grain. Today the heaps serve as couchrs,
for women and children crowd every cor
ner and every roof. The ikucd. in his
square cloak of felt, has driven his sheep
into the courtyard: the Bedou,n has halt
ed his solemn procession al camels 10
await the coming of the Emperor His
pilgrimage was short yet triumphant.
The green flag of the prophet was hung
on the wall of the mosque where the
camel that carries the sacred litter Is fed
Riding slowly forward his ma esry reach
ed the plain, with its ruined moSuie and
mud hamlet where for many generations
Moslems have assembled for that Pilgrim
age which is tEeir baptism of faith. He
went as far as the meeting of the two
roads that stretch like sur-scorched rib
bons to the purple hilis-thc road To the
Hauran, full of vague mystet" OF war
and wandering and the road To Mecca.
The Emperor is mystic AID loves The
sights that quicken and color imlginl-
ton. He gazed long and intsrtly at the
path that leads across the Desert to the
Mountain Of Light and the Sacred City
the Pantheon of Moslems. Doubtless he
saw in his minds eye the endless; pro-
cession that tTeads the way to Meccl.
the multitude of the East who endure
toll, and hunger. and thirst even death
in rEp homo lnulStnIs n hI1 ok
stone which the Angel Gabriel gave to
abraham.
There is no more poetic scene on earth
than Damascus viewed at distance unde-
evening light Twice the Emperor rode to
the village of Es-Salahiyeh in order to
saZe upon it's splendor and majesty. Thc
spot ON which he stood Is sacred to Mos
lens. There Abraham WAS taught the
doctrine of the unity Of God. and thither
for many generations have come dreaners
to lay their bones in the shadow of the
tomb OF Muhi-ed-Din ibu el-'Arabi, poet
and mystic. At the Emperor's feet stretch
ed the city-white walls, studded with gar
dens ard domes and giitterins minarets
encircled with an emerald belt. Away TO
the west. over barren plain. rose the
mountains of ARti-Lebanon against a SOL
erHn space Of blue Sky. Their brown sum-
nit was bathed in sea of crimson light
'Hfl fo7A ilseil III lile rent siues ana hfOke
like waves Of blood against rugged peaks
Volcanic Safa grew black and nonstrous
and the mountains OF the Haaran haunted
the horizon like shrouded phantoms. Slow
iy the purple shadows crept across the
plain until the sun descended behind 4
crimson cloud and level line of twi ieht
ran along the hiiitops. \ dark Veil was
drawn over the sky. but the city shona
below, dome and minaret rising strange
and majestic out Of the shining space. And
through the silence of the night rose the
melancholy cry of the Muezz.n-"Allah Is
great. / believe that there is no Coo
but Allah, and Afahomet is the Prophet
of Allah. Come to prayer