The times., 1898-10-09

tolled for its appropriateness showed
flights of doves, of various sizes, bear
ing pearly sprays of olive in their seed
pearl bills.
There is no use trying to be dogmatic
on the question of lace for the all-impor-
tant toilet. Any lace that is pretty and
good is fashionable though Limerick is
the kind that brides-to-be seem to prefer
This is made in so light and graceful
pattern and in such abundance in Ireland
that II is Of all handmade Iaces the least
expensive.
Perhaps it is as well also to comment
on the brevity of the wedding gown
trains. half dozen yards of white
satin is considered rank and tasteless ex-
travagance in any but a royal parsonage
who dresses according to tradition large
ly. The fair republican orders the back
breadths Of her skirt to curtain out 6 TO
10 inches and that is all, and If YOU turn
up the bottom Of the well-built train Won
will be apt to find it lined. unlike the
front of the skirt, with brilliant silver
tissue
Touching the remaining Topography of
the marriage robe, IL is essential to say
that very high Medici collar is typical
OF all the best examples. Wired lace or
SILK muslin shirred on to a wire frame
Is what every properly costumed woman
requires, and some of these comb-shaped
collars are cut in three gothic points or
rounded just as often as they are squared
on Exceedingly pretty collars are made
all OF silver lace, or the edge of a silk
muslin collar is trimmed with a stiff, mar
row border of this bright decoration.
In sharp contrast TO the Medici ruff at
the rear is the low cut of the collar in
front. 1t was customary. up to the past
spring, to swathe all brides. even to the
ears, in close-fitting satin, and this was
said TO be the consequence of the we'd
ding celebrated by daylight A very few
women did profit by this arrangement,
but the majority of brides appear to
much better effect when their white
gowns open a little at the throat Now
at last, we have the fronts of collars cut
to the base of the neck, while some wo-
men venture TO further soften this by
carving the neck out in very small
point in front. Dressmakers do not hesi-
tate TO say that before the crop of we'd
dings for the spring of 1899 is gathered in
the approved bridal dress will be decol-
lete and brief of sleeve.
Rare and yet more rare every wear IS
the woman who elects to wear TO the all
tar the all-enveloping veil of tulIe. Wells
are almost universally pinned back from
the face, and in a narrow cascade of
tulie or lace, down the shoulders. Brides
have come TO the conclusion that the veil
iuterferes with the well-planned tableau
her gown should present, and that a
shower of tulle prevents appreciative
wcmankind in the congregation from tax
ing in all the best points of the costume:
therefore, at some of the more recent
weddings, only two delicate tabs of lace
fell from the crown of the head TO the
Raistline of the wife-to-be.
Other brides, seen so far, have adopt
ed small narrow tulle streamers with
finely tucked edges, and these diminish
ing wells are fastened TO the head by
coronets of white roses just as often as
by orange blossoms. Sometimes tall,
richly carved ivory combs fasten tulle
wells In place as Spanish women wear
their mantillas, and fl is noticeable. with
the vast amount of silver used on we'd
ding gowns. that slippers of silvered kid
are growing into a distinct vogue. These
are remarkably pretty, and great relief
to the ugly white safcophagus in which
even dainty feet appear to the most
painful disadvantage.
The millinery carnival increases in in
terest every day and the DEVELOPMENT of
the wide felts are TO be watched with
care Not yet have the possibilities of
the Sheperdess shape been exhausted,