The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1898-10-02
h COOKERY.
Its characteristics and Some Dishes fol
Which 1t IL Fnmouu.

Which It II Fnmous.
So nruohh has been said about the starvation OF
the reconcentrados and the hunger Of the Gu
ban army that the name OF Cuba Is not apt to
awaken In the American mind epicurean Wis
ions Of dainty dishes. 1t should be otherwise.
What 10 really incomprehenstble to people who
have lived In Cuba. Notwithstanding the only
toosstern reality. is that death from starvation
should be possible in n country 80 richly en-
dowed by nature.
The Cubans In normal times live well. per-
paps too we'll they are gournets,and. as q peo-
pie. are lavlshly extravneant on their table.
The inner man Is catered to in preference to
the outer. It seems almost as II the tropical
sun created q craving for food with which to
balance the losses occasioned by the extreme
heat. Meals are served a. they are In Europe.
on the Continent-that ia coffee or chocolate
and rolls in the morning. q substantial break
fast at noon. and dinner In the evening. IA the
drink 4, generally taken at about 3 O'clock.
cessiye e~onsumption Of meat and rich sauces:
but this fault. Ike most others, Is, an inheri;
sSSee f. fso tSs s Io1ndN Wh5sh OF s9 }tS eoete 5Re ; islan Sa
ENGLAND did OF the American cookery. The
Spanish cuisine Ia strong and repplsive TO
onions and red pepper. These ingredients are
by no means, to be despised. but they should
not D0 RDuAeu. ana In. Ino CUBAN klLCl0n LnoY
are employed with moderation.
The markets of Havana are well supplied:
the egesa and the poultry. which Is eoEn.fed. are
renowned for their flavor. and. not being kept
on Ice, are superior to those to be had In New
there Is much to CHOOSE from in Cuba, and fruit
Wealthy Cubans COPY their menus after the
classes are found a number, Of purely creole
dishes. the most 3haractertstic OF which Is the
drids, The Spanish estimSte q this PreparS-
ti9n ia shown By, the adage, After God, the
SllaTn II Is a en aIea Of : i HGHS 81 81 s sssT Int Ehq Te
make it rou require beef. veal, ham. salt pork.
sausage Coh9rizoL onions, garlic. bay le ayes.
and gSrbanSosSaM boiled tosether. 4 word
s s60gS =, th sSo G SSlSs 5ss s 4 y Y tb ba9 9ypIoa II r, shS
sailed the land Of the E~ar6ansoa.%S As for the
i fts,"ffSS erian ancestor, with best and pork. or
chicken, but instead OF the Northern yegeta;
malauGas. hard squash or calabash, corn and
tomatoes, seasoned ,sparingly with Kitchen
thing eaten here, the aiiaco, and especially its
brSStth: Is. as q rule. ESlishsd By ApeEic9 ms.
I. E y soa Is e SssP1 in f im@e6 Hs ,S SSan " dSs;i in % fSet,
a. invariably as bread or potatoes, The rice
10 NulO0 0hu III ~ thoI NNSA Aual III
standIapart from its %neighbors. This would be a
representative breakfast In a family Of the
middle class:
Boiled rice. PicSdiiio (hashl.
Fried P%lantains, green, and ripe.
Fish in escabeche.
Lettuce salad,
GuRva paste and fresh cheese.
daSes.
Escabeohe 10 nsh. preferably bonito, fried
in SLICES and laid several hours before being
ssr. d N Rh Z fag Tie %fiSs n hf lnr e PlRs e Y have
been boiled for q few mi9utea:, Three or four
SloS Ts1llc g hay 3 slI lssf' o = Rinea d S Sal ifh tsasSo e His5ln q
s sS|S5 81 S pSa ie ssT ssp t@sls eIISss ans 81 oIe EHSd
It I y eaten en- 9sS ar w and VIII Keep well covered IN
. & SiEos d 'sP POI PollS Ss ehieGYn with rice. is another
Havana whose owner has made sSsG q reDSta Atom
recipe: IN a large saucepan place some LARD.
an onion chopped ins and two ferne.s Of
garlic. When these are brown. put IN q fresh.
Of eia a pound Of bacon sG' in lD dieee. '0UXSiii Allow = this TO take
large All nk;a;nsSYs; or G miho { cSP' i / iTssR Gnss STe
Into strips. Cover tightly and let the con-
over all a FsneF 1Si pint q wa terra and >4 two e cups
Of large Carolina rice which has beer. thor
0uRnly WaAheu. COSR on q moderate lire III
teen to twenty minutes. by which time the
rice will have absorbed all the liquid. The
saucepan must then be placed OF the back OF
the stove so that the rice may steam until II
10 tender and. quite dry, othe[wise. 1t would
burn or roman raw and wet. Pile In q pyra-
mid on q platter and garnish with French
peas. This is o delicate dish.
The desserts In Cuba are extremely varied.
Psstry Is not 80 extensively used as with Amer
icans. but, as II is the country Of fruit and
sugar. the variety Of sweetmeats. preserves aud
candied fruit Is infinite.
Cuban Iced drinks should become popular
with Americans In summer II you go TO q
cafe and ask the waiter what ~retrescos they
have he will call of Il list OF hewilderipg length.
These cooling beverages are admirably suited
to the torrid climate where alcoholic stlmu-
trqit-lemon9de and ~orangeads being the pro-
totypes Of this class. Pineapple, watermelon.
~muskmelon. Strawberries, raspberrles, and
peaches make excellent TrJresc1s. The fruit,
crushed into Q pulp. Is mixed with cracked ice
and sugar, sufficient water being added to rem
der IL LIQUID. Tanarlnds are largely consumed
inlthis manneri the Juice. being soIpewhatlacid.
quenehes, the thirst very effectively, Another
fayorite drink IL orChdtd. Americans are ia
miliar here with the syrup In soda water foun-
tains, and oallit by its French name 0rOedt! but
the genuine article is made by pounding peeled
almonds In a mortar: when they ore reduced
TO a paste water and sugar are added aud the
LIQUID strained through a napkin.