Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1898-09-18

tiful limitations Of the last century mate
rails. They are not to be worn for who'll
! gowns, however-that Is. those brocade,
In colors-but as coat bodices for smar
| reception gowns, and for facing lapel
and large yoke-like collars covering tn,
| shoulders, and other similar purposes
| Another scheme into which these ma
terials enter is seen on a few Of these
new dresses. The sleeves are of the
plain material down to the elbow and the
lower half of the figure. A small rufiie
is mounted on the join.
TEA GOWNS UP TO DATE.
The general adoption of taior-made
costumes so severe in their simplicity,
caused a bound a few years ago In the
opposite direction. resulting in the tea
gown, the veritable apotheosis of the
former dressing-gown, and link between
the demi-toilette and the ball costume.
The theatre was fits birthplace, for no
style so we'll displays feminine grace or
more wildly recalls the airy adornments
OF the eighteenth century. Sarah Bern
hardt, with her tall. slender figure,
adopted the deshabille. which became.
with the artistic draping Of material and
soft laces, the very acme OF grace. Her
deshabilles In la Dame aux Camelias"
are thing to remember. The snowy
whiteness OF lace. Indian gauze. grape
cashmere. soft eastern silks, interlaced
with gold. enveloped her as in a cloud.
Lighter than eiderdown were these long
draperies Of crepe de chine. festooned
with Jewels. opening on a soft chemisette
OF Venetian point similarly secured AT
neck and waist by insets of diamonds.
Others were in ivory velvet. recalling
mother-of-pearl. bordered with feathers.
ana forming soft coat over the che
misette Of Brussels point.
GAUzE HOUSE DRESSES.
Dresses for the house are made this sea-
son entlrely OF gauze. They are built on
q foundation OF satin OF the same shade.
Ihey are RULED. pleated. stitched. en-
crusted with lace, or covered with Valen-
oiennes. Never have the adornments been
more airy, more snowy. more ideal They
require mousseline de sole in their crea-
ton. and the narrowest of ribbons for
their ornamentation. The result is fairy
like, and resembles the finest web of the
tiny spider whose invisible threads vie
with those of the most complicated en-
broideries A very effective gauze dress
embroidered with large cream spots
covers a transparency of ivory taffetas.
1 wo vide insets of guipure, as stoles. bor-
1er pleated chemisette of plain gauze.
while the hem of the skirt is trimmed
with three gathered fiounces The elbow
sleeves are entirely guipure the neck and
waist are encircled by velvet bands I'm |
turquoise, cerise, or black Another toll
cite is long pleated blouse in cream |
Sauze. encrusted at the edge with circles |
u Chantilly, and opening in front over a |
'hemisette Of pink gauze, encrusted with |
he same lace. The foundation Is pink |
'atin. An embroidered bolero Of mink
'eiVet frames the long-foating sleeve.
ma completes this graceful ensemble.
BEWITCHING COSTUMES IN PINK.
Some bewitching tea-gowns are made in
INK, pale blue, or saffron gauze. encrust-
q or trimmed with Valenciennes. One in |,
INK, and absolutely regency in style. had |
he coat rounded at the sides and trim |
ned with double frill Of gauze and lace:
no chemisette was treated with Valen-
lennes, the sleeve a la Duchesse re Bour-
ogne' with a very deep frill of gauze, /
M lace butterflies and satin comets were |
catered in profusion over the fulled |
ounces. Frequently one sees gem dog
ollars sewn on the material itself or on !
elvet. In small beads held by little |
swelled bars. or simply made in coral. Z
enetian, or other fancy substances.
Killings Of gauze or lace enveloping these
pillars give them somewhat fluffy eff
'ct, but they are especially becoming
here the neck is unduly long: the swan
ke neck so admired by our grand
others.