Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1898-01-22
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Stylish Shirt Waists Intended for Winter
and Early Spring.
Suggestions for Those Who Like To
he n Little Ahead Of the Times
Materials and Colors.
speeial Correspondence Of The Eveninc Star.

subsidized than the shops bring forth the
new linens and cottons, In order that the
thrlay woman who takes time by the fore
iock may begin the summer gowns which
are to be of home manufacture. AS soon
as she has replenished her household linens
The up-to-date woman turns her attention
to the spring sewing.
The new shirt waists appeared this week.
and do not look as summary and unsea-
sonable as they might were it not for the
fact that nearly every woman has worn
cotton shirt waists, more or less during
the winter months. protecting herself from
possible colds by a tight-ftting wooden
waist under the cotton. Nothing is fresher
and more trim-looking for a woman who
has duties to attend to about the house
than clean cotton waist, be II summer or
winter. Cotton waists are especially con-
Venient also when one is to be out all day,
with thick cloth coat and skirt The coat
Clips easily over the cotton, and there is no
buiky, oVerdressed feeling 10 contend with.
although 1t is quite as warm with the little
wcolon underwaist just mentioned
OF course, hefstyles for a whole summer
OF shirt waists can hardly be said to be de-
termined with positive accuracy But those
now on sale arc only at the most exclusive
shops, and it Is certain that all the large
wholesale houses have already manufac-
tured the cotton waists in which SO large a
number of American women spend their
visible summer hours. that we car almost
declare without fear of contradiction that
the typical American garment has been
| produced. If the typical novel has not.
For Slender Women.
One thing is certain in the new garments
They are all on the side of slender women
Everything is bayadere. Women who have
outgrown the time when stripes going
round them like those on the coat of a
| convict are beco ming had best foreswear
| shirt waists, in the latest materials at
| least. Ribbed cottons running round and
| round, tucks large and small all horizon
| tai, pin stripes pursuing the same dizzy
! circle, all point to the triumph of the wo-
| man who has already had everything her
way this winter with the prevalent Russian
| blouse
The sleeves are quite Disappointing One
had almost looked for the return Of the
| next-to-nothing fullless at the top, such
as we had when shirt waists first came
into vogue and only few very smart and
| exclusive people wore them. But the
sleeves are rather large as compared with
| the latest models of bodices from Paris.
| There is no dropping fullness. of course
but they are gathered at the top with ma
| terial enough to keep them standing out
| there, and they do not touch the arm any,
| where. The cuffs are straight and gen
| orally of the material of the waist. The
yCkes are made without points in the back.
simply for chanse,, for it is not as pretty
| as last summers two-pointed effect.
| The collars are all high and do not turn
| over at all. did those of last summer.
They meet in the front, which means that
| they will be very warm when the mercury
| mounts, and will wilt rapidly. few of
| the collars have a linen cord running
| about them TO relieve their plainness. All
the new collars call for a narrow satin tie.
| But 1t is probable that many Of the waists
| will be worn with the separate stocks OF
| satin. silk. etc, which are SO becoming and
SO popular, although yet new.
OF Generous Dimensions.
The encircling stripes take away the
| necessity for making the waists as full as
the reign of the Russian blouse would have
led one to suppose they would be when
first they appeared. They are of generous
dimensions, however. and are a little Ion
ger from the collar 10 the waist than Is
absolutely necessary for a snug At. They
really do droop slightly, but this must ne
said with reserve for they are not bloused,
| and one would not wish to be the innocent
means of spreading such an idea.
| The tucks above referred to both
| wide and narrow. The narrow ones Some
| times reach from wrist to shoulder on the
sleeves and cover the waist from the neck
| to within few inches of the waist line
| These tucks are about half or quarter of
| an inch apart, and are a boon to tall
slender women, but a to the vast
| majority who only reach the height Of
Rosalind. The vile tuclls are even more
| trying. Either four or five. made like box
| pleats, arc PVT on the cnt of a waist, and
| take up a great part of 1T.
| There is an element of frivolity in the
white piQue shirt waists. Many of them
are made with collars and CUTS of white
embroidery and fasten on the right side,
| with ruffie of white embroidery conceal
| irg TIE buttons. Although piQue is always
associated with severe outlines, this de-
parture from its usual tailor-made effect
lie 20 he n
The FRvOrite Materials.
So far none of the f1imsy lawns mulls,
etc, have made their appearance in shirt
| waist domain. and it would be a blessing
| if they would confine themselves to dainty
| little gowns and leave alone the field be-
| longing to heavier cottons, which TO
be worn with cheviot, flannel white
duck skirts. But when summer appears
In her splendor no doubt the very thin
| materials will be rsed for everything al
though it is doubtful whether they will
be as popular for shirt waist manufac-
trre they were last year.
Pin stripes of green and white, green
and lilac, watermelon or blush pink, pale
and Ceep blues, and many smart effects
in white and ecru are the colors most used
so far. The prices are prohibitive, but
those of us who are to be lucky enough
tc seek Florida during the next month or
so cannot stop at that. For in that de-
HSnt1ul cHme, where winter Is forgotten,
ore must have shirt waists to wear during
the middle of the day at least. And by
March they will be needed all day. But
less lucky mortals who expect to stay in
this region of alternating fog and snow
can srap their fingers at the great cost of
the first importatiors. Get patte.n
which you know to be absolutely correcr.
Engage a seamstress who can follow tina;
pattern Implicitly, even though she be
slow and deliberate. and then buy shirt
waist lengths from the exquisite new cot
tons which are a source of envy to every
beholder as soon as January arrives Re-
member during Lent that charity be-
gins at home" sew a few days each week
for yourself, and the first warm days tf
May will find you serene and independent
in the consciousness of being somewhat
ahead of the times.
MABEL BOYD.