The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1898-09-14
FASHION NOTES.

Engli,h whipcord suitings in Rus
sian, stem and laurel green, dark Gu
ban red, army, navy and Russian blue,
gray, brown, and black, will be highly
favored for fall and winter tailor cos
tunes.
For those who do not find the nu-
merous new round-waisted costumes
becoming, there are basque-5odice and
jacket styles, also skirts of broadcloth
or ladies' cloth, with long, three quar-
ter coats en- suite, the fronts very much
rounded and cut away, arching well
toward the hips, and showing very
much of the vest, which is elaborate or
extremely plain and simpl, according
to the style of the costume itself.
These curved fronts are features of
many-indeed, most-of the fashion,
able capes and coats and also of some
of the open-fronted Directoire over
dresses.
Salambo is the new shade of rasp-
berry red, much like old rose tints,
that combines handsomely with Rus
sian green, certain shades of blue, and
also with the gray and beige dyes.
1t is urged in behalf of the street.
sweeping skirt, that the new lengthen-
ed jackets and coats are responsible
for it, A very much elongated out
of-door coat would certainly look odd
above short, all-round walking-skirt.
One fashion gives rise to others, hence
the general frightening of skirts; but
it would be far better to shorten the
street wrap or jacket than to add inches
TO the street skirt.
Regarding the matter of assisting,
gratis, the STRENGTHENING departments
OF our cities, it rests entirely with the
women leaders who control, In de-
gree at least, the fashions in this free
country of ours, whether we shall again
choose this most disgusting style of out
of.door attire. 1t is true that to be ex-
actly in the latest Partisan style there
must be street skirts longer than have
been worn.
The substitution of transpare Mt
sleeves for those Of heavier material, or
the supplying sleeves to an evening
toilet that one may suddenly wish to
render somewhat less dressy for after
noon use, is not uncommon, and GER
tainly economical practice. White satin
sleeves, covered with cream or black
! ce or figured silk net, transform
waist whose sleeves were originally
plain black. Surprising color is intro
duced on the bodice, that same color
will supply foundation for the under
81 .eves of chiffon net or lace, and now
that we cannot count on the perma-
nence Of any fashion, it is absurd to
purchase many gowns at one time for,
by little trouble and attention to de-
tail-remembering that trifles make as
well as mar matters sartorial-one can
always compass that variety which every
dainty woman likes to introduce into
her attire.
Some of the new French sleeves are
absolutely plain and tight fitting, with
not even braid motif, tiny cap, frill,
or slight pouf at the top, others have
fl 1t folds, five or six in number, as
finish to the sleeves, or portion of the
slight fullness is shirred or tucked, the
rest left as very small puff. Fat
epaulets, covering the tops of the
sleeves, are used in lieu of any other
sort of decoration for giving additional
breadth to the shoulders. Crescent
shaped pieces, formed of the dress
goods or velvet, or other trimming, are
shirred at the edges, forming little
half-inch ruff, at the edge, and this is
set upon the shoulders, the widest por-
ton at the top, the pointed ends going
under the arms. This semi-puff covers
the seam which joins the sleeve to the
bodice. For women who have rather
large arms, or those with very thin
ones-who do not look we'll in the very
outlining, tight coat shapes-the best
selection by far is the sleeve of the
modified mutton-leg shape, 80 graceful
in its present modes of adjustment, and
so easily fashioned. If desired, it can
be made to fit the arm very closely
from elbow TO wrist, but above the ell
bow there is ease and freedom.
The usual yearly, also semi. annual,
question again presents itself regard
ing the adoption of the separate waist
for both day and evening gowns.
There are invariably changes and ru-
mors of changes about this garment,
which for many seasons has proved
saving grace with women of modest
means and a dainty Unborn taste for
dressing well, and no end of comfort
and satisfaction to those who delight
in varied, easy changes of the toilet.
In some respects waists of this sort are
an absolute necessity to women of this
class, and their name is legion. No
doubt the very smartest, most recherche
tailor. made and other elegantly finish
ed "dress" gowns have waists match
ing the skirts, and these will constitute
the costumes par excellence for two
seasons to come; but there will, let all
women be assured, be no wholly COM
plete fem nine outfit prepared by any
noted dressmaker in this country, or
sent out from any celebrated import
ing house OF this city, which does not
include among its elegancies, waists
for both day and evening wear which
do not match any one skirt, but which
can be worn with any.-New York
Post.