davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

becoming to the face that women who study their good looks have several of them.
 The red riding hood hat is one that is made of any thin material lined with a bright color. A ruffle or ruching Is ut around the edge. and there is a little cape around the neck. The hat is capable ot a great variety of treatment and some Cf the results are truly surprising.
 At an open air performance of 'As You Like It. at summer resort recently, a very pretty woman gowned in gray sat under a green tree, wearing hood of leaf green satin, lined with bright cerise edge of the hood of gray chiffon. The three colors harmonized delicately and beautifully and gave very nice touch side lining makes pretty contrast of color.
 Hats of this kind are also made out of null and lawn of all coors. They are lined with taffeta and are bordered with a little null ruffle or a ruffie of silk. The hood is tied under the chin with a very bright ribbon.
 The woman who is fitting herself out with summer hats will do well to select odd ones. That is, hats that are little out of the ordinary without being too conspicuous. In summer, the odd hat Is preferable to the conventional one Two or three poke hats. a null toque and two straws will carry one fairly well during used for travelling, the poke hat for croquet and other lawn games and the hats for day and evening
 Of course for bicycling and golf there must be another style of hat, but for these there Is nothing equal to the sail or, which is becoming to all ages and con- ditions of women.
 The sailor hat this year Is trimmed Bands of ribbon with quills, sashes with fringes. yelling with flowers, silk with punches of feathers. all are worn on sailor hats.
 A year ago a fashionable woman ere ated a sensation In society at an after noon luncheon by announcing that al- though she had fifteen hats that sum mer, not one of them contained an inch of silk. satin. velvet or straw. They were entirely of paper. This was ques- toned until she had a maid produce from the cloak room a very natty black tur- ban, trimmed apparently with bands of silk. On investigation 1t was found that the turban was covered with dull black silk paper and banded with the same ma terial. On a wager she produced all her hats and proved that they were trimmed in the same way.
 In a certain very large city there Is to- day an immense millinery emporium filled from entrance to exit with trimmed hats made entirely out of paper French tissue, Japanese tissue and silk paper are
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

S9HE question as to whether or not
 soap should be used upon the face
 can bring up more opinions than
 S can the discussion as to whether
 Schley or Sampson deserves the credit of Nthe latest achievement of the American navy.
 Some one wrote me last week and said that when she used soap on her face the skin felt stretched and uncomfortable. and vet when she did not use 1t she could not make herself believe that her face was really clean. One cannot make a cast-iron rule for all womankfnd and say, Thou shalt not use soap" What Is good for one complexion is not good for an- other. If you find that soap does not agree with your skin shun it as you would a poison; if 1t does agree with 1t then give the face gentle scrubbing every night, being. careful to rinse away every particle of the soap.
 Be sure that your soap is of the very best kind. A large number of toilet soaps are made of rancid or half-putrid fat combined with strong alkalles, which cause inestimable damage to the skin by dissolving minute portion of the cuticle, as well as much of the secretions that impart to 1t its softness and suppleness. Soaps containing a preponderance or oily matter, which most of the milder toi- let soaps now do, mechanically soften the skin and promote its smoothness. The former possesses greater cleansing power than the latter. but it's frequent use Is injurious rendering the skin rough, harsh, disposed to crack and easily AaI-
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

fected by exposure to wind and cold. Do not use colored soap. Many of the highly scented and colored toilet soaps contain a considerable amount of lime. chalk or gypsum and owe their attractive tints to noxious mineral matters I hate to recommend anything Spanish, but the real imported castle soap which is made of olive oil and soda is all right. However. the problem is best solved by manufacturing your own toilet soaps. and this Is not difficult to do. Here is the formula for soap which is particularly nice for the hands on account of the oils which it contains. It is called:
 JUNIATA TOILET SOAP.
 To one good-sized bar of castillo
 soap add sufficient water to dis
 solve it thoroughly. Stir in one
 tablespoonful of bicarbonate of
 soda. Let boil. Remove from fire
 each of the following oils (mixed):
 Cocoanut, sweet almond and olive.
 Add one tablespoonful of mixture
 of equal parts of spirits of cam
 phor, nitre, and ammonia and stir
 slightly. Put In mods and let
 stand for some time before using. If scented soap Is preferred, here is straight from the meadows:
 White castle soap, ounces
 Honey, 1 ounce.
 Spermaceti, l ounce.
 Oil of sweet almonds, IF ounces.
 White wax, ounce.
 Shave the castle soap very fine Put the honey in a double boiler and when hot add the soap. In another double boiler put the oil of almonds and tho spermaceti and the wax, which have been grated fine. When the soap is entirely
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

! to pay a great deal for summer hat. ! Summer straws are so varied and summer materials are so chear that 1t seems al most a pity to eXDend s25 upon a single hat, when for that sum any woman who is handy with her fingers can easily get dozen hats.
 In making her own hats the home mill liner should be careful to select something which she can trim. It is very good the shapes that are much worn and to se lect one which she admires Then comes the question of trimming.
 Too often the home milliner depends upon odds and ends in the house. These are wrfnkled, faded and soiled, and cut into inconvenient lengths. Not even For home millinerv purchase new ribbons, new flowers, new feathers and new lin- you want a good effect. The professional milliner may be able to work with odds and ends, but the amateur requires the best of goods. Put on your trimming with lavish hand and trust to pins as well as thread for fastening your trimming. Mfl- liners often employ pins, as will be seen by ripping hat apart, and the home mil liner can do the same.
 One great error in home millinery cc- the trimming down. If you will notice the store hat you will see that irs loops stand smartly erect, that its feathers are pointed in an aggressive way, that its vel vet is put on in great rolls, without any f. attempt to fiatten the trimming down. The home milliner, on the other hand.
 IOHS the VelNel nat, lays the feathers
 down upon the hat, and by various flat touches gives it the amateur look so easily detected.
 Ribbon stiffening costs little Wire + comes in all colors for sewing along the edges of ribbon. Rolls of velvet can easily be made large without using a great deal of material. little crinoline should be used underneath the velvet. If chiffon is used, the foundation should be null. The chiffon is twisted over the null and is stiffened by it.
 Such delightful hood hats are made for
 nice day and evening occasions. These are veritable red riding hoods and are So
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

must have touch of the 'miltngtary" in her make un. and this has been furnished Americans are war crazy, the fashions, of course, must follow the trend of the public mind. With this idea in view the gilded sword handle. It matters little to the swell girl that these umbrellas are hard to carry, and with the present style of full skirts, which must be held up with both hands, almost an impossibilitv to hold open, still, all this must be put to one side, and a sword handle she must have to her sunshade.
 These sword handles are not confined to the plain silk sun umbrella, but extend to the thousand and one pretty coneeits of auctions of tucks. hemstitching, ruch- ings, plaitings and insertions of lace Swiss muslin, mule pongee. foulard and every conceivable material on the market to-day
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

made of beautifying paste, until they fade out A paste is easily made by mixing three ounces of ground barley, Cor fresh rye meaD with one ounce of honey and the white of an egg. Use at night and wash off in the morning. Wear during the day as much as possible. After this treatment you will have to take great care when going out to protect the face with veil or parasol.
 H. H. H.-I have seen in the East a patent contrivance of some sort, which, placed over the mouth at night, forces one to breathe through the nose, and so does away with the snoring. Whether or not the article can be found here I do not know
 I have never known of any such opera ton as you mention. Such a one, should think, would be largely in the nature of an experiment. and I fear could not be undergone without taking grave chances.
 MIME HYGEIA
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31
liars FOR TRAVELLING.
Paris Letter to Sunday Call.

Here are descriptions of hats seen at certain millinery houses: At Rue de Ia Paix 1 have seen the fol- lowing:
 l. A boating hat of navy blue Manila straw, with brim of the same, mixed with white straw; tartan bow and elaborate strass buckle.
 2 Boating hat of red Manila straw, with white and red straw border, trimmed with pink spotted taTetas and fancy white spotted feathers.
 3. Miller's hat of soft red felt trimmed with striped blue and white ribbon dra b and white fancy feathers and !band of straw around the edge on the under side of the brim.
 g. Miller's hat of soft red felt, with band of straw on the under side of the brim This hat is trimmed with red satin and white feathers
 Seen at the Maison Nouvelle
 4. Boating hat of red Italian straw, with tartan bow and black feathers.
 6. White straw hat, trimmed with white feathers and black velvet.
 8. Three-cornered hat of beige straw, trimmed with snuff-colored taffetas and a mixture of light and dark feathers.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

In fact to speak literally ; S summer hats are greater than
 winter ones, much greater in point of size, and far exceeding them in cost.
 The newest hat of the summer of '9S is the Maud Muller. which is part hat and part sunbonnet. It is made upon a wire frame with poke bonnet crown. It is in truth an immense poke hat with flaring front, and a big, round back. It is worn well over the face, which gives it a sun bonnet look.
 To make one of these hats you get wire frame and cover it with null. Set an edge of chiffon around the frame so that 1t will fall oyer the hair, and fasten 1t with large. white ribbon strings. The only other decoration needed on your Maud Muller hat is a band of ribbon which is tied into double loops and ends, at the side. Fumes may be set in the band of ribbon so as to fall far forward.
 These pokes come in white straw and are very decorative. They are faced with rosy silk and bOrdered with a double chif- ion puff. They may be trimmed with large bows of ribbon and punches of flowers and white plumes. A hat like this is not worn for warmth, but for decora- ton and as a sunshade. The sunshade hat may be a fat hat, of course, but the poke bonnet Is much more decorative l.
 The summer toque Is to be worn to sum mer entertainments TheatricaIs at. sum mer resorts and concerts and other pub lie affairs call for hat and for these there comes a straw toque, which this summer is very pretty.
 Many of these toques come in rough straw which requires little trimming Some of them are of white straw with trimmings of green straw. On such a toQue as this the only decoration that is required is handful of stiff plumes sew ed at one side of the hat and finished with a knot of yelling. These toques are very easily trimmed and many of them are worn without trimming of any kind except a knot of yelling and twist of the same material.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

GEORGIANA = Blackheads are very hard to get rid of. Buy a camel's hair face brush and scrub the face with tV&, d water and pure castle soap every nigW. Or, you might use the liquid soap that |
 have given the formula for in my talk to-day. Be sure to rinse away all the soap. Then dry and apply good cold
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

Seen in Rue Dannou:
 White straw hat, trimmed with black spangled.
 g. Boating hat of white Panama straw, trimmed with seal-colored velvet spotted with white and fancy feathers.
 Il. Boating hat of white Manila straw, trimmed with blue and white spotted foulard and white feathers.
 12. Boating hat of white paited straw, trimmed with white satin spotted with black and white feathers.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

perfumed soap in glass or earthen jars. and in a cool, dry place, for damp soap loses its perfume quicker than hard, com- pact and moderately dry soap.
 1 wish that my readers, after experi- menting with any of the recipes that l give them, would write to me and let me know how successful they have been. In the case of failure. I may be able to point out where the error was, or per haps give a timely hint that may be the means of redeeming some mixture that seems homeless.
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

One can speak by telephone from Berlin utes @ for for 20 cents; for a conversation 60 with any place outside of Germany the fees range between 50 cents (Prague) and $1 (Budapest).
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31
* SO4P FOR THE COMPLEXION. *

 e d San Francisco
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31
LATEST COMBINATION.

K r oTwITHsTANDING the threat lT>Nl ened boycott of everything Pari- | Il sian in the way of millinery, dress
The San Francisco call., 1898-07-31

EW YORK, July 29.-Summer has its hats no less than win ter. t
 In fact to speak literally, summer hats are greater than
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19
BOARD OF FIRE CoMmIssEoNERs
Ioficial Proceedings.5

Commissioners held at Department Head
quarters Wednesday evening, January 10,
1893. The roll was called at nine o'clock.
Present-President Mills n Commits
sioner Brennan.
Neutrality-suspicious. Con
On motion the reading of minutes of
regular meetings, December is. 2I: special
meeting, December 81, 1884, and adjourned
regular meeting January Z and "A, 1885.
were dispensed with, and they were APP
proved as eHgrossed. .
READING OF COMMUNICATIONS.
From Jefferson Club, inviting the Board
to attend their annual ball on Wednesday
evening, February 2 1898. From Robert
Davis Association, Invitation to attend
the annual ball OF that association on
Wednesday evening, January ~. 1873. Oh
motion the foregoing We're received anH
accepted.
PRESENTATION OF CLAIMS.
Claims were presented, received ana
disposed of as follows ]
yanderbeek s. Sons, $685.; the United
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19
PRESENTATION OF PETITIONS AND
COMMUNICATIONS

ILL., "A. Sa4ilP0C4l al1Q
Peltloning for the Improvement OF
Eighteenth street, between Grove and
henderson street.
From Isaac p. Vanderbeck and others
Pefi1oning for the Improvement OF
Fairvlew avenue, between Monticello
avenue and Berger avenue.
From John NJ. Hacker and others:=
Petltonlng for the construction of a
sewer in Noble street, from so feet west
OF HuuSon Boulevard to Morris Canal
From Henry Gotthardt and others:-
Petitioning for the construction of a
sewer IN Noble street, Hudson Boulevard
and Girard avenue.
From T. f. Rikeman and others
Fetitioning for the Improvement of Har-
mon street, between a point lS5 feet west
OF Arlington avenue and Crescent avenue.
From Nest Side Land Association per
N G.. Vreeland. President
Petltioning. for the construction of a
sewer in Williams avenue, from 100 feet
west of West Side avenue to Mallory ave-
hue.
from Joseph Blaese and others
PerItionang for the opening, veto, of
Jackson avenue, south of Warner avenue
10 city line.
From 6. P. Howell and others
Petitioningf for change of name of Hoad-
ley avenue to Boyd avenue. from west
erly side of West Sid avenue TO its most
westerly terminus.
From the Ravine Road Sewer Commits
sion, by J. p. Laverty. Secretary.
Transmitting resolution in relation to
sewer in Thirteenth street.
From the Public Improvement Associa-
fion, per Carl Paukoff, Secretary
In The matter of the condition of Lin
coin and Blocker streets, from Boule-
ward down..
Three 80 petitions for signs. etc.
Received and referred to the Committee
on Streets and Sewers.
From the Morris Canal and Banking
Company
In relation to bids for new water supply
received on February .. 1888, from Pat
rick H. Flynn and O'Brien, Sheehan, Nc
Bean & Rodgers
Received and ordered fled
IN-A- w ID ~ ~ n ~ tTAa ~ 4 a 49,
Extending Invitation to members of the
Board TO examine lakes and water shed IN
Warren and Sussex countieS-
Received and ordered filed.
OFFICIAL COMMUNICATIONS.
From the Board of Finance
Transmitting resolution passed by said
Board February %. 1888, and approved by
the Mayor February "A, lS9S:-
Resolved, III the Board of Finance
tion adopted by the Board of Street and
Water Commissioners February Il, 1888,
to wit
Ordering cancelled of record certain wa
ter rents
From the same Board
Transmitting resolution passed by said
Board February %. 1895, and approved by
the Mayor February u, 1875
RESOLVED, Thai the Board of Finance
hereby concurs in the following resolu-
ton, adopted by the Board OF Street and
Water Commissioners February Il, 1873,
TO witt
Awarding to James Coyle the contract
TO furnish and deliver about LOO gross
tons of b.eulninous coal 1T High Service
Pumping station, * so per gross ton'
ne being the lowest bidder, etc.
From the same Board
Transmitting resolution passed by said
Board February %. 1888. and approved Dy
the Mayor February q, 1s9Ss-
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

The amounts estimated by the COM
r~,issioners OF Assessment for the sale OF
these buildings was S2,ssa:
Respectfully submitted.
VIM. A. TOLSON,
Clerk pro tenn.
Received and ordered filed.
From the same officer .ooo
Jersey City, February e, lssS.
no tho Honorable the Board of Street
and Water Commissioners ~
Gentiefnen-The Commissioners OF AS.
sessnlent fled with me under care o.
1Stnr1ary L. final assessment maps ana
rsr6rfs for Improvement of Avenue T.
IMPROVEMENT of Columbia avenue I'M
proyement of oxford avenue and opening,
ETC.. of Rur.yon avenue, all OF WHICH nave
been duly advertised.
Respectfully submitted,
WIN. A. TOLSON.
Clerk pro tenn.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19
Received and ordered filed.

OF CHIEF ENGINEER.
The Chief Engineer reported c~ertIucales
N Henry Byrne, s1ss.25, on account of con-
TIMOTHY Burke, $500, on account of con-
Rchii & Edwards, SAP. retained ct me " per
Joseph II. Jones, $500, retained per-
cen+age- on account of contract No 3D.
Jas. J. Harrington, S652.12, on account u
contract No. l.066.
Vile & Son, Sl4I, on account u =.
~ r Plunkett. s446.5o, retained percent
age, on account Of contract No. w. a..
Thos. +. McCabe, S539:3l, nhal, Oh ac-
count of contract No. l,oSo.
Received and referred to their appro-
pirate committees
From the same officer ssoe
Jersey City, Feb. IS, 1913.
To tbe Honorable Board of Street and
Water Commissioners. -
condemnation attention IS herel,
directed to the condition OF me seTe a1a
been laid, with one exception, no ispsals
nor provisions to make any necessary re-
pairs have been made.
All macadam pavements require occa-
einna1 resurfacing and redressing- The
only ~macadamized street which has peen
properly taken care of is Garfield avenue
from Danforth avenue to Gates avenue,
Danforth to Bayview avenues. also
Arlington avenue, have been laid about ~
years. and no stone or top dressing has
been spread on this portion Of roadway
since it's completion
The early spring is. the best time to
make any. such repairs, and a yearly
contract should be executed at once ior
fhe repairs and maintenance of all ma
cadamized streets and all property owners
should be required to springle macadam-
lied streets in front of their property
without expense to. the city.
Yours respectfully,
c. A. VAN KEUREN,
Chief Engineer pro tenn.
Jersey city. Feb. 2S. 1898.
To the Honorable the Board of Street and
Water commissioners
Gentlemen-The sewer in Gregory street
from Henderson street to York street, Is
in such a condition that repairs are use
less. This9is owing to the settlement OF
the pile foundations, it being in some
places two feet below grade, MAXIM A
impossible to clean the same. The only
remedy is to construct a new sewer: This
should be lone at once. thereby. relieving
the sewerage section from further trou-
Bile.
You have requested and received an APP
propriation to reconstruct the Bay street
sewer. and the existing conditions in maj
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19
Building.

Building. Furcnaseu W. AmA
.a- war.o+ nd Summit avenues. Mrs. cMahon....... s30
zEs - rtMs 5yvnas 4raat. .. .........P Harrington .. POI
= 49, $3.50 All ,yavna street. ... ....B osknstock ... 65 90
.aadmv street Il .. .Conlan. ..... 100
= m m - bca \ Acaaerev sreet.. NJ. Aa@r..... 2OW
N Tu es bosa Newark avenue. ......Mr Clnk..... 500
nA1Ip,a Ne Nanark avarre. ..... .......a cha Lahey .. 1901
%os 80 go. ane bas Cour House ace...John wrght @z5O. 30 90
a4uu ~ tma 1o uboken avenue. .......E Klein ........ 20 90
eStss 80 sas. Al TaTerson avenue. Iamha ..... $50 90
$50 49, hoasa Is Ianerson venue K Maym... $50
aSs - $3.50 Al weverv street ......A .Seutken ... 2T
Ns1A .,a 10 vavav street M Mrs. Mcdonald .~.. 300 90
a1tus 80 housoE wavr1v street. ....... Mr. ibe .... Sb 90
eEse" - - 49,, nh and Prospect street.. Martin Shea G13O.. 200 90
1ssos ie go 20 prasnacfs street ...... ....E. Simmons ..... $50
iStos liam o.sa .afI - ... Simmons .... 500
oaea u 80 - uuausrrvs tret 80. Meyer ... 15
..... s4 %
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

On motion the privilege of the floor was
granted TO Messrs. Feeney. Williams.
Board. in matters of break in Thirteenth
street sewers.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

~--a--5-o - 4.es 44iis AA~e --S---~ ~
itself. The evidence given by Ar. Evu-
ter and Assistant Engineer DenIaead and
the condition of the burned building, prove
conclusively that the allegations made are
without foundation. and prove just as
~conclusiveiy that the firernen were not
only prompt in responding to the alarm,
but rendered efficient and effective service
after their arrival.
Respectfully submitted,
Z u MILLS
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

On motion the reading of minutes of
regular meeting held on Monday Feb
ruary q, 1895, and adjourned regular
meeting held on Wednesday,, February 70,
1898, was dispensed. with, and they were
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

Docks and Parks reported on claim of
J. c. Supply Co, S37.70, as correct.
The report was accepted.
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

~ VI ~
The Committee on Streets and Sewers
presented the following
Resolved, That the work under contract
NO. 1,035 for the Improvement of Fourth
street from Newark avenue to MerseIes
be and the same is hereby accepted as
completed, and that the Chief Engineer
be ard is hereby directed to file with the
Commissioners of Assessment a state-
ment showing the entire cost of said I'M
provement, and that thereupon said COM
m~issicners of Assessment shall proceed
to prepare and submit an assessment map
and report for said Improvement con-
formally to the provisions of section .
of Chapter 217 of the Laws of 1885,.
Resolved. That one special Improvement
certificate for one hundred and eighty
three O4-105 dollars he drawn in favor Of
Joseph H. Jones, retained percentage for
work done and materials furnished on
account of contract NO. 917, for conatrne-
ton of an ls-ineh yitriied pipe sewer in
Jackson avenue. and a 24-inch brick oval
sewer ia Walker avenue from Jackson
The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1898-03-19

On : motion, VIM. A. Tolson was APP
pointed Clerk pro tenn.