The Cook County herald. [volume] (Grand Marais, Minn.) 1893-1909, 1897-06-19

1870 W. oil Adx1A6y SOASAu-
cred clothing as a necessity, we look
upon it as an ornament, it is evident
that it can only beautify the body on
condition that it respects its contours
and does not break the harmonious
unity of the whole. The materials en-
ployed for clothing are principally
women fabrics, which are in them
selves graceful. This must be respect
ed also and in consequence these It's
sues must not be wrapped around the
body. These principles are carried out
perfectly in ancient costume, as can
be seen by a study Of the figures in
Grecian and Roman vases. ~, -
The costume was the same in it's
principle for both men and women. It
did not dissimulate the difference of
the sexes, but it did not attempt to &C
centuate it. The tunic was a shorter
'stola: The mems garment was draped
as profusely as the women's and was
Tor both sexes floating and ornamental.
ITO turn now to the toilet Of our
contemporaries. - IT. al
s.. We see at once that it is at variance
with any known principle. Two things
stand out prominently. First, the gar
ment is always more or less elaborate
~ adjusted; second, it differs very ma
terlally according to the sex.
Doubtless the adjusted garment
might in the first instance be explain
ed by the climate, against which it is
was necessary to take precautions.
But 1t is certainly clear to the most
casual observer that this utility is at
present only an accessory in the minds
OF our tailors and dressmakers.
None of the rules is observed today
In feminine attire. The corset is no
longer worn as a protector; it COM
presses and deforms. The materials
are stretched over rigid framework,
which notably modifies the form. of
the breast, and for the last ten years
the skirts have been either too ample
Or too narrow, spreading out over ar
tiicia1 and propo rtionless contours
or displaying as much as possible Of
The real figure by their scantiness- two
perfectly opposite fashions destined to.
convey the same. impression"
What impression
"The modern fashionmaker has
taken pains to exaggerate all the parts
which nature has made most promi-
nent in the body. All the little arti-
fees of detail have been brought into
play to complete this first artiice.
'The curves of the body have been
brought into; holder relief by the cor
set; and, following the fashion of the
times, by paniers and bustles; the
enormous sleeves have tendency to
accentuate the waist and the high
Louis XIV. heels throw the bust more
prominently forward and impose on
The movements of the body a restraint
| which reveals it's formation more
| clearly. In a general way the femi-
nine figure is considerably ampli6ed--
| and cut in the middle.
"You can see for yourself the effects
Of this division. The unity of form
being broken, one glance no longer
! embraces it easily; our eyes are separ-
ately attracted by the two parts which
compose it, and in each part by it's
protuberances. In fact, the waist as
understood by our contemporaries is
no longer large and supple, as it was
in women of ancient times, but it is
reformation of the body, and in the
disarrangement Of the thoracic cage
divides the women in two-to local
| ize our attention. u #a@..s s.,G i. ;E>.4
'.In a few words, the feminine dress
has become essentially expressive of
sex. 4. ..<rl!eg ~, j IA. ssj e gs.ts .szE.. -
| .The actual dress Of women today is
the irreconci1able enemy to their nat
ural duties. These are the sad but true
facts Of the case $s5 Isl. Z f55z
The publication of this interview
naturally made some sensation in
Paris, and some of the famous dress
1 makers were interviewed upon the
subject. The greatest Of them said
s.There is a great deal Of truth il
/ what these critics say, but we are moi
. responsible for the fashions any more
1 than are the fashionable women who
enjoy the credit Of creating them. go s
But VINO, then, does set the fash.
ions? asked the interviewer.
s N one. Neither myself nor ny
confreres. Fashion is a chain Of varl
ations which drags along in an unrea:
soning logic and a fatal caprice which
ordains that we should increasingly
hunt for a change OF any kind from thu
fashion which was in vogue yesterday
I5Laceis worn today because it was no
worn yesterday It will be worn less
tomorrow because It IS worn 50 mucl
today. The sleeve is large today FOL
change; tomorrow it will be smaller FOL
the same reason and will finally dis
appear altogether.
And all this happens imperceptibly
without much thong in advance, be
Il cause we blow O, rather, foresee
The taste of our Gust toners. q