The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-02-07

far from touching it's end. It will have
! developments in the spring and an
enormous amount of black velvet rib
bon is in preparation at Lyons. There
! is a great deal Of applique. The Worths
are making ball gowns of mousseline
de sole appliqued with mousseline of
| another color or tone, as deep violet on
pale violet, orange on yellow, etc.
Cloth gowns have the boleros covered
over with applique in silk, tone on
tone. This sort of ornamental ton is so
difficult to make as to be hardly within
reach of the ordinary purse; at the
same time it must be taken account of
because ii is fashion that has pro-
duced a revolution in the making of
lace. Lace is now made specially for
appliques. Formerly, in choosing lace,
one bought an edge or an insertion, or
even a length by the piece, but these
old boundaries have now disappeared,
and it is to be had in all imaginable
forms. Pieces are made to fit any
where and everywhere on the gown.
The taste for this sort of thing is on
the increase, and will grow into flower
next spring.
SOME NEW GOWNS.
The gowns described below have just
been made for Biarritz. They embody
reader may unhesitatingly take them
as models for the demi-season ahead.
The first one is of smoke brown velvet
and cloth. The skirt has the upper
part of cloth and the lower part of vel
vet. The velvet has the upper edge in
a curve that sweeps upwards toward
the back; it is slightly gathered, but
scarcely enough so to be called a ruff
fie the width being given by godets,
and it is sewed on with a cord of the
cloth. This division of the skirt per-
mits the upper part to be fitted close
while the lower part fares, thus giving
an extremely fashionable silhouette.
The blouse and sleeves are of cloth
and there is a bolero of the velvet. The
bolero has square jockeys that fall out
over the sleeves, and a collar that will
stand high or may be turned over at
will; it is open in front and runs up
shorter behind to form a parallel with
the curved line in the skirt.
A notable creation is of black cloth
trimmed with violet velvet. AT the top
of the skirt is a cluster of velvet pip
ings running round. The bands dip a
little round the front and reach quite
to the belt behind. 1t should be re-
marked that skirts that permit this
treatment have no gathers at all be-
hind, but two fiat plaits only, one on
each side, which turn under and meet
The bodice of this gown'is partly COW
cred with belerO in three stages with
jockeys trimmed with pipings running
round to match the skirt. The bolero
is double breasted and fastened down
the left side, and in the edge from the
neck down is a crimpled ruffie of black
chiffon. This dress is eXquisitely COM
pleted with a black hat covered with
parma violets and a neck rUche and
muff made of black chiffon ruffies
mingled with knots of violet velvet.
1t viii be useful to observe that
where there are so many bands of
trimming there must be care, that the
lines do not make a discord. They
should not run uD and down on. the
bodice, for example, and run round
on the skirt, but they should keep the
same general direction. The care to be
taken in this regard is illustrated in
the following model The blouse IS of
elephant-gray velvet, striped up and
down with bands of gray-blue cloth
The bands are cut bias, are of grad
uated widths, and are stitched down
On both edges. The velvet sleeves are
left plain. The skirt with this blouse
is of gray cloth, and is without any
trimming at all. The blouse is fast
ened down one side. with plated taf-
feta ruffles, blue and gray set in the
edge, an idea in great vogue, and the
same rufffes are at the top of the neck
band and in the sleeves. A very origi-
nal hat goes with this dress. 1t is
all black, and is made of satin, with
a wide velvet binding round the edge
The binding is an inch wide These
wide bindings are the latest cry. A
velvet scarf is drawn loosely around
the crown, and some enormous black
peoples are at one side toward the
back.
FLOUNCES HAVE REAPPEARED. |
It is perhaps a little premature to
recommend flounced skirts. Several |
have been made, but it seems not yet |
quite certain whether the idea will |
take, or whether it viii remain one |
the many experiments tried and !
dropped every spring. This is word
to the prudent. and having spoken it
the conscientious writer may go on to
describe what the dressmakers say will
be the great rage in the spring.
The fiounced skirt is in three stages
or it may be in five. If the material
is thick the founces are cut in godets,
that is to say, in curve, as capes
used to be cut, which, when straight
ened out, gives fulneSs without gath
ers. Lay the pattern On the cloth so
that the texture will run straight in
the front, and bias on the sides. The
founces are lined with thin silk be-
fore mounting on the skirt. Thus a
model is made with the skirt of beige
cloth in three fiounces. 1t has q blouse
of beige mousseline de sole, brocaded
with a little meander in white and