Evening star., 1897-02-13

sengers in the sleeping car to go to bed
without waiting for the custom house ex-
animation. which is made in the car itself
and can be overseen in 4 hastily impro-
vised toilet while the policemen outside go
over the passports.
1t thus happened that when the officers
of the sultan came to tell me that my
passport lacked the visa of Turkish con-
sui and that 1 must get out of the train
my wife was abed and 1 was rearranging
my travelling bag after it's examination,
clad in the raiment of the night plus
hastily donned pair of trousers My shoes
were on, but united, and my pink-bosomeu
shirt cleaned gaily through the dusk of the
compartment from high hook.
Detained.
While my wife attempted a hasty toilet
l debated the situation with the train con-
ductor ard porter. They were concerned
mainly with getting started again and lied
beautifully, assuring me that Mustapha
Pasha possessed an excellent hotel, near
the station. Finally they got frantic over
the delay and began to assist ne to pack
Up Just rs the train starting some
cne saw my pink-bosomed shirt still aure-
cling the night from on high, pulled It down
end thrust one arm of II under the strap
which held bundle of rugs. In this shape
we entered the police office in the railroad
station, while the train ratified away. Not
house was in sight, and it was midnight
and midwinter-
Until the recent troubles in Turkey the
visa of consul had not been necessary to
a passport Hundreds of American travel
ers have entered the country without this
formality. But times change. and We
thought as We stood blinking and shivering
from the recent warmth and comfort of
sleeping car in bare and cold police sta
tiCn.
happy in knowing the language. OF about
twenty police and custom house officers
hanging around every man Turk.
Not one knew six words of western Euro
pean tongue Most of them were hand
some men. and the feZ is a becoming head
gear. They made fine barbaric picture in
the gloom of the station. pierced by
single lamp; but conversation was not ex-
terssive.
Wnen the police had put cur pedigrees
In the blotter, We were escorted to ram
shackle little socart with one horse and set
OF after midnight to drive six miles, it
proved. to the town of Mustapha Pasha
1t is the pleasing custom of the Turks to
put their railway stations from four to six
miles away from the towns in order not
wholly to deprive carriage drivers of their
business The village, when reached, was
q wretched group of huts in swamp. 1
have since met an American teacher who
was quarantined there four days and con-
tracted a malarial fever from which he
was TWO years in recovering. The streets
are vile and the people densely ignorant
1t was after l am. We were taken to
the police station in Mustapha Pasha it
SELF. and the unvisaed passport was given
TO naughty sergeant. who stacked our
luggage In his room and offered me a Gig
arctic Then We were led away again T
made dumb show of my desire to regain
possession of my shirt. but was repvlsed
with lofty Roman virtue.
In n Turkish Inn.
The khan. or Turkish inn, to which We
were taken. was a huddle of low buildings
around a s.aOle yard. In the middle of
lndescribable filth was the well. necessarily
source of disease. One room was fitted
up for occasional European use. The win
dow had never been opened, the bedding
rad never been changed and was already
sufficiently occupied Sleep was impossible
1t was bitterly cold. The air was vile and
though 1t was already after morning came
slowly. 1t was a night of intense disc1m-
fort
When IL was light, we discovered that in
the main room of the khan the Turkish
guests had fered better. Each man brought
rs own bedding to lay upon one of the
benches about the wall and his own food
The khan supplies only coffee which is
excellent In this main ROOM which was
warmed by stove and ventilated by the
sometimes open door, we sat during the
morning and played euchre with tiny
pack OF cards about an inch long which
had somewhere picked up Half score
VI 1ufhlSn IOUnSerS VINO sat IN the inn
drinking coffee took keen delight in the Sc
little cards and were looking at them over
cur shoulders when an old man came i'm
and addressed US in German. J-ntil then
IL had been impossible to learn what our
captors proposed doing with u.s. which was
most aggrayating.
The newcomer proved to be Pole by
birth. veteran Of the Turkish cavalry.
who had fought on the winning side in the
SriInea and the losing side IN the Balkans.
he took US to his house. where we found
that mis- wife spoke French his son Ger
man. Ills sons wife French, his son-tn-law.
rnnltary surgeon, Turkish 1t was the
only European family within twenty miles
Ihey led us, seemed pleased at the break
our coming made in the mouotony of their
lives and told US about their relatives In
Chicago "
Presently a fine carriage drove up. which
We mad noticed In the courtyard of the
KHAN To IL was attached a good pair of
horses. on the box with the driver sat the
TURK who had been held with us the might
pefore and within IN solitary state was the
police sergeant. Outside was piled the lug.
gage. the pink bosomed shirt on top OF ali
held by one sleeve precisely as II had beer
the night before. and futtering In triumph
over our Departure. Ii continued to fiutter
aIi the way 10 Andrinopis, q four hours
drive, as II was rather chilly 10 attemp.
redreseinx either In or out of the carrIa ~,
II was an interesting drive and do moi
know how We could have seen the country
better. The driver was fine-looking Turie
and as humane and intelligent In his ca r.
ot his horses as any one have ever seen