The herald., 1897-10-31

to the wrist and having one row more in
each set. Every group of braid rows
has in the center an olive-shaped silk
button proportioned in each case to the
width of the row which it is-fntendee
| to decorate. Sleeves treated in this way
are finished with a cuff which is entire
ly covered with braid to match the rest
but the button is not used thereon.
Another style is to- have the sleeve
buttoned down the outer side, in which
case the cuff is generally cut in one with
the sleeve proper, and by stitching the
material the effect of frill is obtained
Still another arrangement is to have a
band of different material from the
sleeve itself running from top to bot
tom, with bands of braid or narrow
velvet put on crossways, giving some
what the appearance of q plaid. Some
times puffs for the top of the sleeves
| are formed of embroidered velvet, while
the tight-fitting portion of the sleeve
| is made of the dress material, braided
| llengthWise.
! Coat and jacket sleeves are still plain
with a few shallow pleats at the top,
but they show a tendency to grow small
er and smaller. The pelerine sleeve
promises to be well liked for jaunty
wraps, but is used very little on cloth,
tight fitting jackets. Some of the new
est between season jackets have rather
wide sleeves, gathered at the wrists.
The cuffs are of gauntlet shape and turn
back over the sleeves. This particular
style of sleeve is used principally for the
blouse effects, in which the back and
sides are confined by belt, while the
front is practically straight and ends in
tabs Bishop sleeves are again in favor
for evening and carriage wraps, made
very wide and of the same width all
the way down, gathered into the wrist
with a narrow band.
Bodices intended for wear with odd
skirts are distinctly a fashion of the
season. Small-patterned silks in con-
ventional designs or the plaids now so
much worn are chosen for this purpose,
and vest or chemsette effects are con-
sidered the correct thing. Silk tucked
shirt waists in all valors will be eXten-
sively worn under our heavy winter
wraps and jackets. The new notion in
this regard is that light shades will be
favored. We used to think that only
the medium and dark shades were ap-
propriate for winter wear, but to be of
that opinion now is to be considered old
fashioned This applies to the wooden
waists as we'll as silk. some of the plaid
designs being especially liked, and these
light and bright -colored waists are to
be worn with dark skirts of any descrip-
ton. This new idea has at least the ad-
vantage of being economical, as some
of our odds and ends can be thus util-
lied.
1t is truly astonishing how much a
stylish and becoming collar band can
do toward redeeming an otherwise Or
binary gown. 1t is this fact which makes
that article of dress so important. A
good illustration of this | found in a
collar band that was made to wear
with a plain dark-brown cloth. 1t was
formed of a fold of white satin and an
other of gold galoon, cut straight in the
front, and having little shaped bands
standing up around the throat at the
back A collar made in this fashion
could easily be arranged so that it could
be worn with more than one dress, q
point in it's favor which will readily be
recognized.