The herald., 1897-04-18
NEW GOWNS
Now Talked of for FASH
ionable Folk
OF THIN, CLINcINc MATERIAL
BLUE CLOTH COSTUMES WILL BE
LARGELY WORN.
Pink and White Foulard Silk Popular.
A Dainty Style Of Skirt and
Blouse-Covert Coatings.

muSllnS, Open-WOTk muslin, IOuldTu,
nuns yelling, cobweb poplin, and mul-
titude of new and strange materials will
be seen on the counters of the shop
keepers. In fact, 1t has been decided
that we are going to have tropical
summer. Fate Is fate, and Dame Fash
ion is its prophet. The summer. girl,
therefore, to be thoroughly fin de steele,
must be diaphanous in appearance
Everything about the garments that
clothe her must be soft, clinging and
undulating.
This does not mean that blue cloth
and blue serge have been banished. No.
indeed. Among the very prettiest of
the designs for spring and summer Is
blue cloth dress with dash of oriental
ism about it. There is pleat at the left
side of the skirt, braided in long point
of blue and copper braid about foot
WIDE This holds the pleat in place.
The back of the skirt is pleated, but the
last two pleats are rather wide apart
and show a design of braiding from the
top to the bottom of the skirt. The
waist has blouse effect, fastens UP the
hack and is braided in the point on the
front over a very little round yoke OF
lace over blue silk.
very pretty dress is an old-fashioned
wavy affair of pink and white foulard
The skirt is made with wide row of
the silk alternating with narrower row
of yellow India muslin, each edged with
an insertion of thread lace The skirt
is fashioned after being practically made
into the smallest accordion pleats. The
waist is made in the same manner OF
eli 1aA al
felt all around One of the prettiest
blouses have seen has the back smock-
ed in point just under the collar be-
tween the shoulders. The point is about
five inches long. and three and half
inches wide. This point makes little
fullness which is gathered into the belt.
The front of the blouse has two points
of shocking, one on either side of the
pleat The pleat is not more than all
inch in width. and on either side is a
ruffle gathered into the pleat by half an
inch of shocking, the edge of the ruffle
being free. The sleeves have three points
of shocking at the top and directly at
the top of the shoulders, one toward the
frcnt and the other toward the back.
The shocked ruffie on either side of the
front is edged with narrow lace. The
collar band Is shocked and ends in a
standing-up ruffie, with two ruffles of
lace inside. The sleeves are cut in three
points at the hands and finished in lace.
Another dress that pleases is a gay
flowered China silk, fiuted in the tiniest
reed-like flutes possible. This forms a
sort of overdress about eight inches
from blue cloth underdress The blue
cloth comes down over the hips also fit
ting closely, and is cut out in long points,
holding all small pleats in place and ap-
pliques upon them. The bodice was
made of the reed-lilSe pleats with blue
cloth points and finished by a sort of
coat-of mail belt. The sleeves were in
pleats, one over the other, to the hand.
Another blouse, which I have seen is
simple enough. 1t is a bright red silk
crossed-barred with fancy black ribbon
1t is made with a little square neck filled
in with black mousseline de sole, and a
black satin belt completes the whole.
The skirts with which this blouse is
worn are all made separate from the lin
ings and are long all around-as long as
possible in front and within two inches
of the floor on the sides and back.
The new covert coatings are of the
IdlnteSI SIdutSs Will SOlt SufldCe thai
suggests suede. In light gray and in
dove color these make charming frocks
in coat and skirt style, elaborated with
braided trimmings which the fashion
able modistes have now decided to COM
bine with narrow velvet ribbon. One
costume that have seen Is of drab box
cloth, almost cream in tone. The skirt
Is trimmed with three broad strappings
of cloth set at two-inch intervals from
each other. The coat is of the sack type,
reaching just to the waist and cut up at
the side seams, double breasted in front,
with large pearl buttons A black cra-
vat and white linen collar and one of the
new canvas sailor hats sompletes the
whole.
1t Is definitely settled that the style of
parasols known as the "Marquise," that
were popular in 1910 and during the Sec
ond empire, are to be largely carried this
spring. They are very light and ex-
trenely pretty. They are made in all
colors, in all materials. plain or fig
ured, trimmed with very deep fringe Of
lace, have folding handles which are a.
times ornamented with gold and silver.
and form handsome wedding presents.
The folding handles are extremely con-
venient, and the parasols, though small,
are not only quite large enough to shell
ter the face and protect the delicate
shade of ribbon or feathers adorning
the bonnet or hat from the too ardent
rays of the sun, but take up much less
room than sunshades, it being frequent
ly impossible for two ladies sitting side
by side to hold up two of the latter with
out inconveniencing one another.
The very latest in fancy lingerie is
largely of lace and black in color. Black
lace underwear sounds sombre, but
really the effect is charming A typical
set of lace underwear has one of the
prettiest petticoats ever made and 1t is
formed Of absolutely unrelieved black.
The foundation Is of delicate, diaphan-
Gus stuff and i pon this are placed a
succession of narrow rufiies of the finest
black silk wrought in charming de-
signs. The whole petticoat is really as
light as air. Corset covers worn with
this style of lingerie must match 1t ex-
actly. If the wearer really believes. af-
ter trial. that the unrelieved black is
too somber, 1t may be lightened by
touches Of rose or lilac ribbon for the
purpose Of drawing in the waist or skirt.