The herald., 1897-11-07
Sable for the Rich, Fox for
the Poor
STYLISH BL0USES IN FUR
WHAT THE LOVELY WINTER
GIRL WILL WEAR
The Newest Dresses Ruled by Sim
plicity-Fewer Tucks, Rich Ma
terials and Somber Colors

NEW YORK, Nov 1.-(Special Corre-
spondence to The Herald) Fur plays an
important part in costumes as the sea-
son advances. Sable is the most fash
ionable fur still, but it is only for the
rich. The Hudson bay variety is more
moderate in price and is very becoming,
besides which excellent color can be
given artificially to the French sables.
and they are soft and glossy of texture.
A new fur which promises to be popular
and is not expensive is white Siberian
fox dyed a blue-gray tone, resembling
blue fox. 1t is not expensive, but the
color is not one suitable to all complex
ions. The same fur, which is fine, long
of hair, handsome, and soft to the touch,
can be had dyed darker gray that is
kinder to the complexion if not so strik-
ing to the eye. The name of this fur is
the extraordinary one of celestial fox.
One might be pardoned for supposing
that in CELESTIAL regions there was no
variety of vixen or vermin.
For woman of tall, slender figure,
still in her heyday, the fur blouse is the
smartest wrap of the season. The broad
tail or moired lamb is the handsomest
material for a blouse with a jeweled
belt to finish it. The back is slightly
loose and the front very much so, but
the fur is so soft and pliable that it is
not bulky. The fronts usually turn back
when opened. so as to show second
fur, ermine or chinchilla. This makes
it very warm garment when folded
over and all have the storm collar.
Some are fitted closely at the waist
line, so as to avoid a belt, but the latter
accessory really belongs to the new
blouse, with it's combined Franco Rus
sian origin.
Our winter girl, whose portrait we give
you this week, wears a walking costume
of caracule fur and ermne with white
tulle bow and front. The ermine revers
are edged with sable and there are three
little rows of sable at the foot of the
skirt. Her muff is trimmed with ermine
and lace.
There is a Quieter and simpler char
acter about the new dress, the materials
are rich and the colors somber, but the
trimming is by no means elaborate, and
fussiness Is little in evidence. Tucks
continue to be used as trimming, but
as tucks in winter fabrics are neces-,
sarily more clumsy than in muslin, silk
and chiffon, there are less of them A
skirt trimmed with four rows of tucks.
meeting each other in a point at inter-
walls down the front of skirt, is very
good style. The same idea is repeated on
the bodice. the tucks coming from either
side seam and meeting both back and
front. There are square revers on the
bodice faced with velvet and the sleeves
are finished with rows Of tucks coming
at intervals.
In order to compass about an elaborate
up-to-date gown, and to avoid the great
expenditure which, in the ordinary way,
1t would entail, an excellent plan Is to
have dress very we'll and very plainly
made, and to trim it at home, just as
one would a skeleton hat. Many women
have distinct talent for detail to whom
the construction of a complete costume
would be most reckless undertaking.
In having the frock made it is neces-
sary to have some definite end in view.
IT Russian bodice is desired and the
material decided upon for the skirt be
cloth and for the bodice velvet and satin,
the plan of procedure would be to have
the skirt plain with points let in up each
seam Of satin. The bodice would be of
velvet as regarded yoke, basque and
sleeves, of soft Roman satin for the
body portion.
When the gown arrives at home, fitting
and hanging satisfactorily, the owner
must get some prettily contrasting col
ored velvet or velveteen and cut out
some pretty foliage-like design and en-