Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1897-10-21
THE FASHIONS IN new YORK
Some Striking Novelties Seen
in Millinery Ornaments.
A MARKED FEATURE
Fancy Runs Riot Among Birds
and Plumage.
4 Remarkable Craze for Blouses--An En-
tire Dress IN Piuids seen Occasionaliy,
Bnt Usually Separate Waists With Black
Skirts Find Preference.

tlrb DRESS IN PiHIu9 seen occasionally,
Bnt Usually Separate Waists With Black
Skirts Find Preference.
Special Correspondence of Gazette and journal
New York, Oct H. ~ Recent millinery
openings have beun unusually interest
ing, heca use of striking novelties.
Among new materials, miroir and I'M
cut ynlyet are conspicuous, tine first
named being very freely used and by
its peculiar shine that reminds ore of
plush, it contributes largely tn general
effectiveness. Ordinary velvet is sub
nitted to process OF crushing that
imparts to the pile a flattenel, yet
bright appearance and the French have
nansd it miroir, tmirrorl velvet be
cause of the glisten. Uncut velvet is
one Of the most elegant fabrics known
with it's repped surface, resembles
velours and is employed for making
hats and bonnets and is likewise seen
in choice ribbons.
| Millinery ornaments are world in
| themselves In show casea. they uazzle
the on-looker by reason OF numerous
imitation stones that often in huge
dimension, assert themselves in the
most haunting manner. Set in
Cabuchons, buckles or pins, most fire.
| 9uently the former. they glow in hril-
! liant shades Of green, red, purple or
| yellow or in delicate tones of the same
hues or In white offer attractions to
| buyers of comparatively modest tastes
Large insects present special oppor-
| tunity for bright color devices and
accordingly they are noticeable as an
| Illuminating element in women's head
gear, and also 10 jet, appear TO some
extent. Steel ia extremely fashionable
both for ornaments, small theatre hats
and as setting AROUND stones aud for
| these purposes is preferred TO let,
| which will be chosen without OK
traneous additions and always pre-
| ferred by certain class of wearers.
| Fancy runs riot among birds and
| plumage, and there never was time
when single quill feathers were so
freely employed. as many as - being
used on one hat. Not unfrequently
furthermore. these feathers have
rough. undressed appearance and seem
TO have been picked and appropriated
| without any previous preparation,
though on the contrary, there are
single quilts showing careful elabora-
ton as to dye and otherwise. Wings
| seam not SO popular as entire birnH
with outstretched pinions aud in eyi
dence of such Partially, mention may
be made OF large imitation birds in
jet or spangles whose outer wings OK
tend half foot on either side, while
the space within is filled with minor
simulations. Such specimens give somp
ides Ui the general exag9eration preva
lent and in case Of small honnets. the
utmost richness Of metal embroidery
often becomes apparent
III. T. f..
inery. Some small bonnets are Of
velvet shirred throughout and wide
brimmed examples display like fea-
lures. though in such cases, there are
usually alterations of several tucks
between the shirrings. Turks indeed
are markedly new departure in mil
linery, and as such promise to be
greatly in favor. Tbs use of chiffon
or mousseiine has already haen noted
and as an ecceptricity, mention can be
made of black hat entirely covered by
close chiffon shirrings; chiffon shir-
rings also form a favorite finish around
or under brims, but this essentially
summer fabric is oftenest used in
plaitings or puf1ings instead OF lace.
White lace, however, is seen to
limited extent, forming contrast to
fur and in general the idea of extreme
contrasts between very thin ana very
thick materials or garnitures, ia at
present as much in youye as ever.
Stirring is special new feature in
gowns and in view of this. new satins
are brought out in shirrings FOR cor
ssges and seeves. Even velveis are
sbirred and for evening, great run is
expected on mousseinss shirred by
machinery and recalling accordion
plaitings, although the lines run
slanting on the breadth. Fronts OF new
dresses are often formed of this new
fabric and it is used for shoulder trim
mings as we'll.
People returned from the seashore
ard mountains have been busted in
furnishing up gowns damaged by
country wear, for winters campaign
in town. Many dresses by the aid Of
Ivory soap are made new again, while
the convenient fashion by which adults
and children may wear similar ma
terials renders possible freshening
by the same process, of parts of gar
ments for Juveniles Of the family. 10
some cases too, new shirred satins or
mousseiines have replaced worn fronts
and sleeves and thus the gown has IA
look of positive novelty. Az noteworthy
rivals in material both poplin and
gros grain silk can be mentioned and
stylish outfits show skirts of either
fabrics, with velvet.
Tho craze for blouses is indeed most
remarEable; large majority of new
gowns show blouse fronts or tho entire
waist cut in loose, ungraceful outlines
and even tailor made dreaFes have in
most examples lost their character of
trimnese ann are made in blouse style.
independent waists, too, share the
general madness ana perhaps it is in
view OF such fancy, that separate
waists and skirts have come up again
with all or perhaps more of a former
prestige. In this connection, too, more
than passing mention should be made
of plaided waists that are ON high
wave of popularity. The most un.
observant must remark what beautiful
varieties in this line are Offered. All
grades in plaids appear and the higher
types have become delightful studies
in most brilliant uolors Occasionally
an entire dress in plaids is seen, but
usually separate waists with black
skirts find preference. In out door
garments, blouse outlines are con-
spicuous, but Independent garments in
this style are made OF rich materials
such as velvet or velvet and fur and
usually much trimmed. Cloth is pre-
ferabiy in jacket shapes that either
tight fitting or half tight in front and
double breasted, run in langths from
" to BIB inches. New capes are fitted
in at the back or both back and front