Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-12-05

!
dons and frequently we had food In ma
five houses. Removing our shoes, we
souatted on the floor, sitting tailof~iasn-
! ION A big tray, piled with rice, would be
| In the centre. Knives, forks, ana spoons
| are not used there, so everybody eats
! with his fingers. 1t is hard at first TO eau
| rico without making a hash OF yourseiI
| and the floor. But after awhile you sue
! cee5 IN kneading a little BALL This Is
rested on the forepart Of the fingers. rails
ed to the mouth. and finally shot IN WIN
the thumb. After you have mad iot Oh
rice, green, shiny stews are placed before
you, and you dive in your fingers ana pun
| 10 your plate what you want. bowl or
sherhet stands by. and you all drink from
the same spoon. 1t IS quite the proper
hing for the hest to pick something
from your plate. which Is an indication
there is no poison. Indeed. at the house
OF one Persian gentleman, he always took
something from my plate before L COM
menced eating myself. The greatest marx
OF honor 10 when the host discovers TIT
bit on his own plate, and, holding 1t be-
tween his finger and thumb, pops II INTO
your mouth.
There were some singular experiences
on the road. At Tabriz we were pursued
by a bowling mob right through the ba-
zaars We saw a couple OF poicemen' or
guards. or soldiers, or ruffians, and re-
quested them to show Us the way How
much will you give us?" was the first
thing they asked. And there we had 10
stand. bargaining what was the price OF
their civlllty, Perhrps, after all, there
was nothing strange in this. Every office
in Persia goes 10 the highest bidder, and
the town guards must pay for their posi-
lions.
We rather expected trouble leaving the
town so we got a couple of mounted SOL
diers to see us safe beyond the gates.
one rode on In front. bawlng for way
to be cleared, slicing at piople with his
whip. and turning camels, donkeys, ana
their drivers up side streets. -Four or nVe
hundred people tumbled after US, making
a fearful din. We took no notice. But
our rear guard would, every now and
then, swing round hts horse charge
where the throng was thickest. slash
wildly at anybody and everybody, ana
allow us TO slip ahead.
At one place the news OF our Journey
preceded US, and when we approached
the town about twenty OF the wealthy
Persians turned out on horseback After
the customary salaams. we rode In front,
and the troop danced and careered about
us-a demented escort. The lanes were
hacked with men, and tho housetops
crowded with women A feast had been
prepared, and there was much bowling
and exchanging of compliments. drinking
Of tea smoking of kalians, and general
norizing. The governor OF the town walt
ed on US, and asked, on behalf or the
Inhabitants, who had never before seen
a bicycle, that we should give an exhibit
ton. We said we would ride in an open
space at noon next day.
I well recollect the Autter Of excitement
I was always In when a travelling circus
came to the little town OF my rchool-
days. 1 think the folks Of that Persian
town experienced something of the same
sensation. Five hours before noon
crowd collected before the house where
we were staying, and, as time went on.
the gossiping gave way to yells OF impa-
tience Casually i strolled to the roof TO
smoke q cigar. and the tumultuous shout
that arose has only been equalled In my
memory by the pandemonium-like roar
on the posting Of the figures at presi- |
dental election.
When we sailed out, half dozen far |
ashes, armed with long switches cleared |
the way. Never was there anywhere such |
confusion. There was jamb or the pop |
ulace in tho narrow ways, followed by |
struggling. fighting. We feit
nervous. But two soldiers kept near each
OF US. There were quite 5000 Persians |
about, and, as we rode In circles on our
wheels and did stunts" the delight or \
the folks was tremendous.
The halt for a couple OF days gave
horssmen travelling south the opportunity |
OF carrying TIE news of our coming. so
our reception In every mud village and
struggling hamlet was noisy. At brst we
enjoyed the novelty. but soon II became
q nuisance. Then we would make
circle round the place. But the lookouts
saw the trio. and there was a race be-
tween the villagers across the fields TO
intercept us. and we cycled for all we
we're worth to give them the go-by.