The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-06-20

broldery is among the novelties, and
wherever this can be appropriately en-
plOyed for trimming the summer gowns
it is and will be. l saw one blue and
white organdie dress where the f1ounces
were alternately Of Organdie and these
embroidered bands, set on as fiounces.
1t looked quaint enough. The soft
and delicate thin bareges are trimmed
often with the wheel or trefoil work
mentioned above, and quite as often
they have several narrow bias rulings
each edged with half inch Valenciennes
set on straight. Valenciennes is also
used on the fine lawns. Some of the
pareges are shown in regular shepherd
plaid in delicate colors. There is
peculiar beauty about these bareges
that reminds one of the downy soft
ness Of child's face, and they make
very appropriate dresses for young
people. Some are printed in shadowy
designs, others are plain, and the rest
are plaided.
Among the thin gowns for summer
L noticed one today for an up to date
grandmother. The underdress was Of
purple, silk shot in two shades, The
front breadth was gathered from the
throat to the bottom, and there was
pointed black velvet belt Across
the bust were sewed three rows of
black chantilly insertion, laid on fiat,
and near the bottom were six other
rows. This was an inch and a half
wide. The whole outer dress was of
black chantilly gathered on full, and
having full cascades of a narrower
width of the lace down each side in
front There were a stock and ruff1e
Of delicate lilac gauze at the neck.
The inner sleeves were tight and Of
the shot silk. while the outer ones
were OF the black lace and flowing
very loose to the wrists. Lace gowns
always are elegant, and lace as trim
ming is always appropriate and be-
coming.
There was very stylish suit shown
at one house. The skirt was of very
rich black and white striped silk. The
skirt and a draped sash belt were
sewed together. The belt was made
bias, with line of narrow silk fringe
along the ends of the wide bow, which
was placed upon the right side. The
stock was made Of the striped silk
laid In folds, and had a large bow
matching that on the belt set at the
right side. The waist was of white
satin, overlaid with black chantilly,
with lines Of very narrow gathering
of black silk null. These lines ached
from neck to belt all around The
sleeves were Of lace over satin from
top to bottom, with the lines of gauf-
fering in the same style. double
cap was made to the sleeves of accor-
dion plated silk null. The parasol
was of black satin, with white crepe
lisse ruffles, and the hat was of black
and white straw, with black ostrich
tips and white peOnies as trimming
1t was called a magpie costume, and
1t was very stylish as we'll as hand
some.
l must not forget to mention another
new idea, and this was skirt half
full of fiounces. The skirt was built
up like others, but on each side there
were five wide f1ounces. leaving the
front breadth and back one free and
plain. Each fiounce was edged with
a narrow knife plating of black tat
feta. The gown itself was of figured
surah. 1t was very odd. Another dress
of figured india had five f1ounces OF
black silk muslin each three inches
wide, with narrow edge of fulled silk
muslin. These HOunceS were brought
down to the foot of the front breadth
seam in front and up to the waist at
the back, nearly covering the sides with
diagonal f1ouncing. There was a bertha
at the waist with three overlapping
ruff1es of the black silk null There
was sash belt of wide black MORE
ribbon. Ruffies Of all kinds and
flounces of all kinds are most decided
ly in vogue now. vet they are not at
all obligatory, witness some very hand
some new designs and impOrta tons for
summer costumes.
There was one gown of white mo-
hair. The skirt was cut smooth over
the hips and not so very wide at the
bottom. There was an embroidered de-
sign OF vines in shaded greens all
around the skirt near the bottom and
again at the top. There was also a
small, trailing pattern down the
sleeves and around the shoulders On
the shoulders and down the outer seam
there was a doubled fall of white silk
fiph oY.f no
scribed above, edged with the new
lace. And there was a dainty visiting
gown Of blue and white figured taffeta,
the skirt untrimmed and the waist
draped to the left side under 81 crushed
futile bow Of the same. The only
garniture was what was achieved by
several rows Of fat Valenciennes in
sertion on the neck and on the left
shoulder blade in the back, for the
back had diagonal drapery of the
silk from the top of the right shoulder
to the left side. The rest of the back
was of the silk set in on straight, with
the lace laid lengthwise 1t was 'stvl-
1sh,'' but not. particularly pretty.
But there was a gown both stylish
and pretty. and dressy altogether It
was intended for afternoon wear cor
company. The gown was of corded
silk of deep indigo blue. The skirt
was plain all around and opened in
IL OllC " q pulling VI white tUlIe over
pale blue foundation of taffeta This
putting was crossed back and forth
with black velvet ribbon, and down
each side was row Of the heavy new
medallion lace in ecru The narrow
half belt was covered with il. The
waist was of tn pale blue taffeta gath
cred very full both in front and hacl,
There was Swiss girdIe of the dar1
silk, edged with lace and crossed hotb
front and back by the velvet rihho,
and edged with the lace. There wera
bretelles in front, and these ended o,o
the shoulders. The sleeves and AZ
stock carried out the design Of tbe
trimming and made it perfect In The
back Of the stock there were velvet
ribbon loops and lace rosettes NJ
founces were needed on this dress
pretty plaid Irish poplin for vounr
lady IN her teens was complete also
without the f1ounces. The skirt and
sleeves were Of the plaid The blouse
basque was of pale pink silk muslin
gathered extremely full and beIfed ~
SO that there showed a ruff1e below
the belt This belt, by the wav was
of rush green and white louisine rib
bon. 1t was wide and gathered and
tied in large bow in the back. There
was another doubled bow without ends
at the left side in front Of the waist
The pierrot collar was of the pink sill,
null. The sleeves had little draperies
down the outside of the arm-dye of
them, each held by white linen but
ton. There were two rows of very mar
row black velvet ribbon sewed across
the front and back in zigzag lines.
costume was girlish and dainty.
Mate