Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1897-09-09
TEE FASHIONS IN new YORK
Large Hats Contributing to Pic
turesque Millinery.
BIRDS AND PLUMAGE EMPLOYED
Golden PheaSants Peculiarly
Acceptable.


Special Correspondence Of Gazette and Journal
New York, Sept :. Large hats again
contribute to that picturesquenes5 IN
millinery, which has hesn SO agreeable.
Their expanded brims ara vantage
ground for a display OF wide ribbons.
feathers and mammoth Bingeiiowers
which show forth among rich Hurroud-
iDgs, while as a notable feature OF the
season, may be remarked the use OF
chiffon or mousseline that imparts
softened appearance to garnitures In
general. Birds and birds plumage were
never moro freely employed and in new
importations, high position is accorded
tu plumage that shows brownish or
grayish tints. aincs both hues, especially
the latter, arc to be popular. Long
| Amazon ostrich plumee in natural gray,
will therefore be in great demand on
| the mart OF wealthy buyers. though
plumes of like dimension in black, TO-
tain all their usual prestige.
Golden pheasants seem incredibly
| large for use on ladies' headgear, but
their yellowish brown tints render them
peculiarly acceptable and the milliner
| twists them in such fashion that they
almost form tho examples which they
ornament and between these extreme.
specimens and little white Java spar
rows not much larger than large in
sects, all sizes and numerous colors ure
shown. Entire BIRDS or parts Of them
arc dyed in green, red or purple, thus
giving evidence that these three huea
so noticeable during summer, are now
10 renew their youth, while as vel
come addition, comes bluet blue In
three tones.
Satin auil pompons are special eT-
ponenta of handsomely dyed feathers,
nor must coq's plumage he omitted from
tho list of winter garnitures, since II 10
seen in many combinations. Ribbons
run in width from four and half to
six inches ard arc chiefly in tatfeia,
MORO or hasket weave, satin ribbons
being quite out of date. Velyets are
matter Of course and importers show q
large supply OF velvet crowns more
or less richly adorned, which are ex-
pected to form Tam O'Shanter bats for
young people, Flowers so far shown,
are very large and mammoth roses in
silk and velvet are truly elegant.
Dress materials shown by Lord &
Taylor, prove that novelties came chiefly
with rough surfaces and many different
fancy weaves. Velours cordings are a
; leading feature and apart from solid
oolored goods in which they are FREE
auenr, produce many effective designs
according TO the manner of placing
them and this is most varied, COM
hinations of stripes. dots and fancy de-
signs being seen in addition. The
same blistered appearance noticeable
formerly in Crepon weaves ia seen again,
though this ia an exceptional feature
. that appears only in high class goods
I | and ,,anarnliy IL 10 1nitaI with phunUa-
able effects that are not frequent how
over, hut considered choice when
brought forward. Basket woven w0ols
deserve more than passing consldera-
> tion. Tho weave is so loose as to he
almost open and warp and wool so large
: as to rival basket straw in width. The
cclors are usually quite gay and such
hues as red, blue, yellow or purple ars
2 mixed freely, with motlioum of black
s 10 set them off. But as the appearance
is that of small checks, they are not
loud and basket woven ribbons 60 to
show that this style OF material Is Inn
n portant.
Oame'e hair cloth having the charac-
y teristic long hairs lying loose over n solid
IT colored surface, is now reckoned most
" stylish and elegant woods display cn
10 solid groundworks, tleecy stripes and
rank high among leading importations.
tt Cancels hair borders in different Widths
q are brought out for the lower edges oil
d skirts and are shown oil additionally
'r ny plain upper portion. Importers
y would not invest in those garnitures
unless sure of selling them, No that VT
" may look for considerable skirt trim
!, ming, the mnre So an new solid colOrot
10 woods arc also woven with rows OF
10 satin in the skirt portion, that simulate
g. the ribbon trimmings OF the summer
T. Fashions in general are in truth fal
I, better adapted TO tall anil slender
figures than to women of medium o.
low stature and become even diaastroni
when assumed by stout persons. ThesI
in latter classes must never forget thei
deficiencies or too great amplitude. !
al will be difficult To Withstand the raall,
Ia beautiful novelties in rough weave bu
n the wearer must take precedence owe
+. what ia worn. Unequal surfaces o
RS course add breadth and skirt trimmings
ID datract from height In the midst o
). temptation moreover, there are at
* tractire goods in Tine. close weave AM
ye for general wear, narrow indl6tlnc
stripes in dark COlors, whlle plain clutl
SO serge, cashmere or fine cameIs hal
IS. cloth ii not too pronounced, form al
important part of fall and winter offer
ings
Many untrimmed skirts will be Wort
and though corsagss will still he elabo
- rated unoE, yet it il quite pu6Sibe 1
- make selsction of designs which do no
" add breadth or even by deit placing Q
10 ornamentation, to bring about subtrac
~ ton rather than the contrary. Tigh
sleeves which have been anticipate
y with apprehension by thin arme
:. women, are yet in the disIanc
~, o. and perhaps by a. better under
'rss standing of aesthetic lave, ma
- not appear. Strictly speaking, {
course we have even now, some tigt
sleeves, but no one is compelled TO wea
al them; all are modified at the shoulder
az by pulls or added, overlapping ornt
''i5,, mentation that is improving to ever
10 one, since increased breadth ahov'
10 causes the waist to look smaller an
10 thin girls by aid of bows. soft belts
i ~ loose vests and the like, can easily oil
TO- tain counterarting effects. For the ia
10 and slender, the coming season will
~ indeed joy, since with elegant, roug
80 dress materials and broad picture hat
they can readily themselves becon
M pictures. Rosalind May.
at
Int RNEERgE@ m ACC