New Ulm review. (New Ulm, Brown County, Minn.) 1892-1961, 1897-05-12

are the most freQuenCeQ. EaCn year Cno
restaurant frequented by the ''swells"
changes. Two years ago it was Du-
rand's, last year it was Paillard's and
this year it is Voisin's.
Americans are generally disappointed
IN the appearance Of these places be-
cause they are frequently small and by
no means gorgeous in their equipments.
They are all arranged in about the same
way-a row of cushioned seats or d.
vans running around the wall, with ia
bles placed next to them. The guests
nearly always ensconce themselves on
the seats next to the wall and are served
from the other side of the tables by the
walters. Occasionally, when the place
is crowded, people will seat themselves
on the outside, but ordinarily they are
found on only one side Of the table AS
for the table linen, the china, the knives
and forks, they are by no means as fine
as we find in many Of the American
hotels and restaurants. The cooking,
however, is hard to excel. The reason
that the Paris restaurants obtain such
high prices is owing to their popularity
Of getting what they call primeurs.
Their Paris epicurean guests seem to
want to eat things out of season. For
example, they are fond Of serving you
peas in January. Then, they will give
you pheasants and birdnest soup and
other exotic dishes.
Here is a sample dinner and a very
plain one for two at a Paris restaurant.
oho NV no
times, or 10 CENTS to sit down. There
| fore for the two places, or converts, put
| down 1 franc; an aperitif, the substi-
tute for our American cocktail, another
franc; bottle of ordinary white wine,
francs; bottle Of ordinary burgundy,
francs; tureen of bouillon, another
franc; sole with normandy sauce, 8
francs; a duckling with turnips and
cream, 10 francs; asparagus with de-
licate sauce, 10 francs; ice cream tart,
5 francs; coffee, half france; liqueurs,
franc; tip, half franc; total, about
| 80 francs, or about $12.
The French have many ways Of cook
ing eggs most deliciously. For exam
pie, eggs with shrimps, scrambled eggs
with chicken gravy, and scrambled eggs
with almost everything, much better,
you find, than in America. They also
cook many things in covered saucepans
which are most appetizing. Their sauce
pans are earthenware, of the kind call
ed casseroles, and by keeping them COW
cred they can cook chicken Ell casse-
role which will make your mouth wa
ter. The average American chicken is
baked in an oven-although the cook
thinks she is roasting it when she is
only baking it-and, as rule, it is dry
and tasteless and unfit to eat.
You can get a lunch, or what the
French call a breakfast, at any of these
restaurants, including bottle of ordi-
nary wine, butter, shrimps, eggs and
mushrooms, chicken with artichoke
hearts, straw berry tart, coffee and
cheese for about rs francs, say S.. But
all of these bills that am giving you
are the dinners and breakfasts ordered
by people who are careful. The average
American is apt to take things which
are suggested to him by the waiter, and
when he has eaten with his table com
panion say four dishes and finds that it
costs $40 apiece it makes him very tired.
IF you will notice, have put on the
bills of fare above only ordinary wines.
If you place yourself in the hands Of
the sommeiller, or wine steward, and
tell him you want something very good,
he will bring you up an old cobwebby
bottle of burgundy without any tag on
: it and will tell you that it is good Sc
: it is. It will generally cost you more
3 than champagne, and by the same token
it is better than champagne. Americans
: soon find out the places where they have
good burgundy and bordeaux, but they
have to pay for them. I would advise
, these Americans always to trust in the
sommeiller rather than attempt to fine
things themselves from the wine list
because the wine list is meaningless
& All it can tell you is vintage and prices
and sometimes not even that. Parii
Cor. San Francisco Argonaut.