The morning times., 1897-03-07

The general trend of fashion for the
season To come is now so definite that
It is POSSIBLE to begin ones summer ward
rohe with considerable confidence OF its
being correct when summer arrives.
Spring costumes for Easter are al
ready being made by the leading nod
istcS for fashionable Christians, and by
Mary OF oole for her own personal use
when she goes cut in her figger" for
ptou.enade on Easter SmCay afternoon.
Between these tH extremes ali grades
OF 2ownS are being rushed through 10y
every description of dressmaker. The
Bradley Martin ball isn't a circumstance
10 Easter as a iocmer OF business. Folks
wIo cannot afford 10 hne their clothes
made are making theiI own, or employ
dIcssmaker 10y tie day TO cone in and
help them over snaes of cutting and fitting
lOlices, boIeros and such.
Although i'll has been predicted that
Jackets VIII Supersede capes for spring
wear, as they did to a certain extent
during the winter, the cape has fluttered
up as seIcnely, with all its fnlls and fur
beIows, as if nothing had ever been said.
The only change in its style is the addition
the place OF the full ruche OF ribbon and
chiffon Worn last year. This collar is so
sensible and so generally becoming that
home dressmakers viii do we'll to learn
The knack of making it, as it is likely To
stay with us for a long time hence.
Those who have capes left over from last
summer viii find it easy TO make them
look ur-to-date by the addition of
iS l,lacE
problem is easy for a black silk collar is all
that ) necessary. If it be some odd shade
il may he difficult to match it, but the
same general tone OF silk may sometimes
he used and veilea with ntousseline or lace.
Capes OF more poplin with high collars
wsll probably be useful for ordinary wear.
They Inay he black and lined with silk
to match Cloth capes are all braided or
headed. sometimes both at once. 1t re-
quires q great deal OF patience to do~this
hy hand. and the result is hardly worth
tire trouble. Ia fact, although few Of
them viii he worn, they are very un-
satisfactory wraps. They cannot be
anything else huJ stiff and they have
VERY little advantage Of warmth TO recon-
rierd them, and are never dressy, there is
no economy in buying them. The prettieSt
shape. hut The sides curve in andthecOrners
are sharp. Many are trimmed with scrolls
a. velvet around the bottom and on the
collar.
Beaded silk or satin capes are always
dre,sy. and generally Serviceable. They
admit OF great variation in neck Trim
ming and can be made over many times.
J. Nedici collar with little beading and
%
with hooks TO rasten it together, and rib
bon ends To finish il under the chin, will
make last year cape look very fresh and
Rew.
blue cIoth cape With applique lace
trimming which was worn last season
with a blue ruche. will be glonfied with
TINS same flaring collar made Of blue faille
six TO match. with "A little white lace ruche
pround the edge to bring il into harmony
with the rest OF the garment. OF course,
all such wraps are much fTesher for new
hiring and stifrening
For a cape that IS worn merely for
ornament and a a slight protect ion TO
tHe throat there is none better than
the black silk yoke and cellar with a
ftounce of accordion pleated ch iff On
around the edge The yoke should lie
made slightly longer in the front and
tack than it is on the shoulders, and
may be scaEOpcd or pointed and trim
ned with beads or silk bIaid. The nigh
collar is softcned with a chiffon ruche,
and the head OF the ACCORDION pleated
flounce is also bordered with ruching.
Stiff net Should be sewed on under the
Chiffon ruffle to make it stand out
properly, or the black silk flouncing
that is sometimes sewed on the inside