The National tribune., 1897-12-16
A JHCUHR HUNT.
BY DIR. j. II. PORTER.

We had been caught in southeastern
Mexico by the war between .luareZ and
Porlirio DiaZ Ii was impossible to leave
the country by sea while its ports were
closed and was fitting in such a land
neutrals suffered at the hands OF both par
ties.
Perhaps the saints saved us, but 50 far
as could be seen it was that talismanic
title of Doctor, which - potent among bar
barians wherever one may go. Even our
native factotum Ortiz became disguised
with his countrymen'S5 behavior, and he
was a scoundrel after fashion TO which
only the great Spanish humoristS have
done Justice He said: Que SIM erguen
zasi" (what blackguards they arch Be
hold gentlemen, / am your most devoted /;
even TO crossing these mountains as you
propose. Let us go and see their won
ders."
So we started, while yet some posses
eions remained to us, on long land Jour
ney towards California. Ii was a march
repIete with interest 10 all who pursue the
natural sciences, and our way was beauti-
full and grand exceedingly. Climbing the
magnificent Sierra Madre rampartS through
those dark coniferouS forests that belt
the eastern side of the Selvas bravas,
primeVal woods of pecan, walnut and hlck-
ory. we won at last the ultimate grassy
uplands, that pays de ninguno, nobody's
country, which stretches along these lofty
nights
Before this we had looked down upon
the fair Val de Perote, all northern Vera
Cruz and those mountains OF Loreto where
the fierce and i'm lacab Amozoes made
their last stand before determination. Now
by way OF the San Inez and San Rafael
ranges. and often through an ocean Of roll
ing fog, the crest was gained two oceans
we're in sight, and an unreasonable land
ward view.
Being chiefly concerned here with a mys-
ferrous wild beast, there is no time TO tell
of our biVouacS in ruined Spanish castles,
every one OF them haunted; to describe
nights spent amidst tropical iungles,
strange experiences at camp fires or in
casuchas-herdsmen's huts.
Here singular specimens OF the human
face who did not al all belong 10 this age
poured forth local legend, ancient folk lore,
and tales OF enchantment. They told grim
and tragic stories of present and past mis-
deeds; and often when these great forests
were thrilling with the winds many ca
Gences, they said Of some wilder and more
mournful blast, that it was the warning
voice OF wall OF that night lamia who is
called Llorona.
We prescribed for this population, and
may heaven forgive US our quackerieS
though the medicines were sound enough
But what can one do among people who
believe every physician 10 be a wizard and
would Cespise and renounce him il ne be
haved in a civilized way2
From the cold land, our route lay down
ward into a tropical country again. and
having seen the temple ruins of Mayapan
with its quenched fire affairs and bloody
stones OF sacrifice now washed clean by
rai:;sa, nc entered the mountain delta of
Jalisco.
Less than degree of latitude north OF
Acapulco, the Rocky Mountains, whose
main chains pass into Mexico ECO miles
70 .f
the Rio LeTma. Whether or not any an
cestors of those free ard heather Jaliscans
who from their mac cessible neaks st II bid
defiance 10 Christianity and governmental
control, have looked upon the sources of
that great stream. no one knows: but IL not
them, then not anybody
As for the 5000 square miles OF tropic
forest Enclosed at their yertex by the con
vergng chains no human being ever en-
tered its depths, and but few white men
have even visited the outskirts of this
wilderness.