The record-union., 1897-10-03

Gray gowns and gray skirts of hand
some material, with pretty silk fancy
waists en- suite, viii be worn all the
season by both matron and maiden.
Many of these gray gowns are relieved
by trimmings of white or soft daffodil
yellow but little deeper than cream col
or Canvas, Henrietta cloth, etamine,
drap d'ete, and similar light flexible
woolens in these neutral tones are
made use of, and gimps, narrow frills,
braiding, and rows of ribbon, either
satin, faille, or velvet, are the chosen
trimmings
The first autumn hats and bonnets in
colors are darker tones of the oddly
braided gay-hued styles that have been
so popular all summer. The iris vio-
let, and periwinkle shades are repeated,
the various dyes in green and brown
straw, and these and other snowy col
ors will rival the black models that are
to usurp no small portion of the domain
of autumn fashions in millinery, and
wholly black trimmings will rule very
largely to the exclusion of the mass of
color that has so predominated for sea-
sons past. There will be great use Of
large, broad, fluffy ostrich plumes, with
little or no use on hats of real elegance
of the little stark, stiff, stuffed, tri-
colored efIigies with dyed beaks and
legs. bead eyes. and wired wings that
have so long been looked upon as an
essential decoration of all fashionable
hats.
New York modistes affirm that in
taking early autumn orders for new
costumes they find great difficulty in
persuadlng their patrons to select mod
els made with overskirts either short
or long, round or pointed. The major
ity of women who have either sent or
personally given orders have declared
in favor of the seven -gored or modified
circular styles they elected for the past
summer. These models We're so salts
factory in every way-in comfort, style,
finish, etc.-that they are content 10
let we'll enough alone until one more
season at least has passed; and, there
fore. notwithstanding the fact that
overskirts of every form, real or sim
ulated by trimming, are lin" there
seems. as vet to be considerable uncer-
tainty as to whether they are to prove
a general success or not. For demi-
dress wear, etamines, canvas, textiles,
in silk and wool, in many new colors
and effects. and plain and fancy gren-
adines. made up over black, white, or
colored taffeta silks, from some of the
most stylish and desirable gowns for
the autumn Silk warp etamines in new
shades of reseda, Marquise brown, sage
green. or blush gray, are much used
for brides travelling costumes; and
other pretty suits of the fabric show
silk-lined seven -gOred skirts elegantly
huns. the waist trimmed with rows of
handsome gimp, the lower portion near
the darts slashed, showing a dropping
arrangement of plaided taffeta silk of
the very best quality, in clan colors or
In black and white. The plaid appears
again on the gagged collar and at the
wrists of the very small mutton-leg
sleeves.
The Recamier bodice made by French
modistes has a seamless back, a bias
front, and is cut in a low rounding
shape, the edge exquisitely draped. 1t
is quite long wasted, but this effect is
is wound twice around the waist. falling
in long ends at the left side.
Plaided and shot silk Russian blouses
Will be worn with English serge skirts
throughout the autumn season.
French coats of smooth-fnished satin
cloth. to wear with various dresses.
come in dark shades of russet brown.
Russian green, several handsome
shades of blue. many tints in light neu
tral cloths. and the always fashionable
black. Among the models is one or
Russian green cloth, with the upper
portion trimmed with velvet and rich
" jetted applique ornaments. broad
bias band of black velvet encircles the
waist. Another detail of many of the
new coats is the oddly shaped revers
collar and also the fastening Of the
garment up the left side from neck 20
Jacket edge, with narrow fur bands as
a finish, with braiding or passemen-
terie beyond the fur. and sometimes
this trimming is repeated on the oppo-
site side, but more frequently one side
is left undecorated.
New cloth redfngotes are trimmed
with bands of embroidered velvet.
The newest basque bodices are still
short and very dressy in effect. with
odd, fancy fronts innumerable and
jaunty basque or position backs, the
lower edges tabled, slashed, Vandyked
or cut in circular shape 10 suit various
tastes and figures.
Soft beautiful tints in reseda or mi
gnonette green. in rossignol or nightin-
gale, marmotte. a pretty ashes-of-roses
shade, in doe color and reindeer, are
among the fashionable colors in autumn
fabrics for tailor gowns in ladies' cloth.
camels hair goods, Fionas, silk and
wool reps, and costume cloths. A few
dyes are in metallic tones. but the
greater number have a suggestion of
mellow autumn sunshine in the wool.
Still others are brilliant with a glow of
beautifully interviewer Persian color
mixtures-smal Oriental patterns fig