Evening star., 1897-02-06

and gives a much better figure. Great
numbers of bodices have these box pleats
in front. coming below the waist. and they
are becoming more and more the smiled
upon design.
For every evening bodice you must be
prepared to squander material enough for
two, the drapings are becoming so intri-
cate. 1t is now quite according to rule to
combine, sometimes one might better say
piece together. four designs. having the
two fronts different each from each and
from the two backs. which claim the same
privilege. 1t is not easy to do this and
achieVe harmony, and perhaps that is
why she who must be obeyed thinks it
worth trying. .''
Madame Paris otherwise she sticks
10 broad cOrSeletS back and front, but has
at the same time weakness for extremely
narrow metal belts studded with Jewels. J
There are no changes in skirts that are
at all startling. The safest model at pres
ent Is gathered on a thick cord about the
hips. SO as to throw the fullness behind
1t is moderately full at the foot, and is far
more becoming than those of yesterday
which stood out SO formidably at the sides.
Popularity. of Bald.
You can make no mistake in using as
much braidirg as possible. 1t is quite
according to rule at the moment 10 have
iapeis. epaulets, collars and cuffs of light
shade contrasting with the dress and on
these to display black braidIng in verrni-
CELL or much involved arabcsque patterns
Neither can you err, If you desire a cloak
or ground length, in getting one of redin-
cote style. This shows that you fully ap-
pEeciate the subsistence of skirt and sleeve
mere are not many new materials. but a
new idea in materials is exemplifed In a
very pretty evening dress just finished to
figure at the court of SPAIN
A robe of black net glinting with gold
and jewels. is lined with pink chiffon, and
this again Is cleverly draped in the loose
empire style over princess gown of black
satin. A very short black satin bolero is
lined with pink and edged with seuuin
lace; 1t Is so cut as to meet on either side
the opposite points of the fan-shaped epau-
lets IN huted and wire net that springs
from the shoulders. Garlands of pink leaf
less roses cover the short sleeves and out
line the square opening of the bodice A
lew Blossoms are StreWn the skirt
draperies. There Is bertha of finely
pleated net sprinkled with rose petals and
pearls.
Another evening dress that seems to me
among the best now on exhibition is of a
very delicate Old rose brocade, one of the
sInartest colorS of the season. At one side
OF the skirt Is panel edged with gold and
1eweled passementere, and tied across
with straps and bows Of old rose ribbon
The same passementerie edges the fam
shaped bodice in front, which opens on the
left side. A puffed bertha of old rose
mousseline de sole is drawn about the
shoulders. and peeps out from under the
bodice fan and all the way to the ground
from beneath the skirt panel. The short
sleeves are of mousseine de sole. with gar
niture of roses.
A handsome visiting dress of silver pray-
corded silk is just ready for shipment to
America. The bodice has a zouaye of sill
yer and jet pasSementerie lined with silk of
a tawny mandarin yellow and having long.
iong-pointed hanging fronts, coming we'll
down upon the skirt draperies Two van
dykes of the same passententerie ornament
the front of the skirt. which Is otherwise
richly plain. Epaulets in the form of small
double Capes, black satin bows to hold the
zCuave in position in front and a broad
folded belt of black satin are the only ac-
&C SSorieS.
Suitable for Easter.
Altogether different in style is a prone
made dresss for the Riviera, that favored
land of sunshine from which 1 hope to be
writing again very soon. 1t Is warm enough
at San Reno or Mentone to dispense with
wraps very frequently in the early after
Lt on. and Sd winter dress for that climate
Is not unlike what New York will see about
Easter. The gown of which am thinking
has skirt of olive green velvet. This Is
almost entirely covered by an overskirt of
dark viole. cloth which comes to the
ground, but is caught up a bit on the right
side. ArabesQue embroidery In olive green
cord borders IL and covers the narrow belt
of the skirt material The bodice Is a vel
vet crossover blouse. II such a term can be
allowed. 1t opens bit in front to show a
violet cloth vest, and above ii Is q very
she rt violet silk bolerO with olive green en-
broidery. Fluted silk epaulets cover the
t1 ps of the velvet sleeves. The large hat
of olive green straw is trimmed with violet
ribbon and with foliage. A big bow of