The record-union., 1897-07-04

The skirts of dainty Powered and
2 striped French lawns and cambrlcs Tor
morning wear are tucked half their
length; finished with a deep hem only
or trimmed with many rows OF very
narrow ruff1es headed by bias band'
with a piping each side of plain lawn
the color of the figure in the goods.
, Narrow pleats or tucks forming a deep
yoke or vest front trim the waist, which
is usually completed by large dressy
cape collar of embroidery and linen
lace The sleeves fit the arm very
closely, and are unlined, and little
puff, or else three tucked ruffies, decor
ate the tops. The waist is sewed perma-
nently to the skirt with a ribbon belt
as a finish, with many floating ends at
one side.
Among novelties in jewelry is a very
fine gold chain bracelet, with pendant
disc about the size of a ten-cent piece
set with a stone associated with par
4icular month of the year.
Victorian corsages, glove-fittfng, al
most seamless, and laced up the back
will be very general this season among
elegant evening toilets for slender,
youthful women. These bodices were
very much in evidence at the Queens
recent drawing-rooms, hence their
great popularity. The fronts are very
closely fitted by means of princess
lining Of silk, with an additional deep
ly arched seam down the immdiate
front The waist is cut rounding in
the neck, with a deep fall of rich lace
from the edge. The Lady Spencer"
waist is another fashionable model.
This is cut open in a deep V, with
great spreading bretelles as a finish,
with a heading of narrow pearl gimp.
A narrow girdle is edged with the same
'garniture. The open V reaches al
most to the top of the point of the gir-
die, front and back, and has a very
diaphanous yelling of shirred lisse in
serted to resemble chemisette Russo.
Muslin gowns, being exclusively hot
weather gowns. are cut down in the
neck, sometimes merely in a point, but
oftener in a deep and wide square
shape-a la POmpadour. This opening
is then filled in with some pretty trans
parent net or muslin-plain or accOr-
dion -pleated-and the space framed
with q fall of lace or a narrOw-pleated
ruche. Other muslin gowns are fold
ed in the very popular surplice form,
the waist showing diagonal pleats
sweeping from the right shoulder to the
extreme left of the waist, where is
placed very long narrow loops of satin
or velvet ribbon. Naturally, white or
cream laces appear most often on mus
lin dresses, still there are instances
where handsome black lace is selected,
which is cleverly used to tone down the
very gay effect of the flowered material,
and make at the same time charming,
.dressy toilet for a woman of mature
years: but this is by no means confined
TO such uses. 1t appears with equally
good effect on elaborate gowns for
p youthful women. Black-velvet ribbon
is frequently added, and the lace is
gathered very lightly, to lose none of
its transparency, against the delicate
background, and to show distinctly its
beautiful device. But lace is still so
lavishly used on other materials that il
is an agreeable variety to see it omitted
on sheer-cotton gowns, hence we see
this season India muslins. batistes, and
organdies that are made up in elegant
simplicity with only self-trfmmings
and no laces. Velvet ribbon in shoul-
der-knots, choux points. and rows is
used with great prodigality. Many
dancing toilets of transparent textile
have the entire front and sides formed
of lengthwise rows of ribbon, giving
striped effect to the material. The
handsome opalesque ribbons are very
suitable for the purpose. Very charm
ing. also. are the ribbon braces, COM
bined with lace, that may be worn over
any simple bodice. The ribbon is
formed into a very long V, which ter
inmates in a number of loops and ends
at the waist, with empire bows on the
shoulders. If desired, lace is jaboted
down the outside of the strand, termi-
mating in a point at the belt, under the
ribbons.
x-shaped lace pins, brooches, buckles
and hair ornaments of real diamond
and other rare-gem settings, or formed
of French brilliants and many other
glittering mock gems. are among the
latest bits of fashionable jewelry from
French lapidaries.
All the latest summer hats and bon
nets are more or less transparent, If
of straw, they are of the zephyr variety,
light and cool; and countless new mid
summer models are made of shirred
anu dCCOTulOI- pite1Itu SduZS, luitC, ilSSE,
India null and similar airy textures.
The brims vary in size as do the
crowns, which are high, low and medi
UNI, TO suit all tastes and faces.
Flax-colored linen travelling costumes
are chosen by many fashionable women.
The Holland jacket bodices open in
front over a stylish embroidered vest
The good skirt is about four yards
wide and fits closely on the front and
sides. The material, though it passes
by the name of Holland, differs consid-
erably in substance from the old-time
linen, so called, since there is a wiry
weave suggestive of wool in the newly
named variety. Cool-looking ecru lin
ems will also be in fashionable favor in
coat and short Eton suits of various
kinds. Other ecru linens, almost as
thin as batiste, and SO generally be-