The herald., 1897-05-16
PLAIN. FULL BoDrCEs PoPULAR.
eHEpHERD'e pLAIDs
The New "Bsatrios" Coat-A Brand
New Da&in-oueer shapes IN Hats.
Latest Wash Materials

cobweb grounds, tiny holes arranged to
form . square pattern. with others like
open-work stockings. These all show
the lining through, for nearly all can
vases are lined with bright silk. shot or
plain, and look remarkably well made
up. White Ii used as lining for black
canvas. which, in the fancy for black
and white costumes that now prevails.
would prove . very useful gown for
spring wear.
Corded erenadine IL also worth men
Bion, the thick. black cords Of which are
divided by narrower cords In brilliant
colors--cerise. violet, green. orange or
blus-and also with white cords only.
Grenadines are generally in favor. the
more expensive kinds being very artistic
In design and unusually attractive. Ona
Of the new fancy grenadines has black
ground. with large arabesque all-over
pattern In white threads, which is most
effective. and also In harmony with the
black and white idea so much In vogue.
The color combinations are new and
startling: the brightest Of reds, with
mauve, violet and purple, vivid green
being constantly added. Cerise, a very
bright shade, ID almost as much in favor
a. Parma violet, and the two are frc-
Quently blended. Blue and green, though
by no means q new color arrangement.
is still much worn. Plaids are very FASH
lonable, blues and greens predominant
ing. They make, In silk, admirable
blouses, as do the black and white plaids.
These, worn with black canvas, summer
serge or grenadIne skirts. are in excel
lent taste. ~
One good model has the bodice
trimmed with narrow frillings-three-
carried across It in front: these are
lined with black silk and edged with mar
row lace. The epaulettes are also lined
with plain silk and lace-edged the
wrists having frills to match or ruffies.
Nearly all the newest sleeves are so fin-
ished Lace insertion Is the trimming
chiefly employed for sleeves-either
black or white lace---the strips OF inser-
tion being let into the material. not
merely laid on 1t, with very often colored
silk or ribbon showing through the lace
Plain. full bodices are more seen than
any other style, the fullness being at the
back az well as In front, the collars high,
ana the sleeves with epaulettes-which
have quite superseded the wide, coat
like lapels which have been worn so long.
A shepherds plaid gown has the fulled
bodice drawn into black velvet yoke,
of which material the collar and waist
band are also made, the full skirt having
a velvet line at the edge and being silk
lined. Another gown Of the same mate
rial. which Is just now greatly worn.
has the skirt braided up on each side
with black braid, the front and back
left plain, which gives length to the fig
ure. the bolero Jacket worn over 1t braid
ed to match, and worn over tucked vest
Of white satin. Braiding on plain cloths
and tailor-made gowns is very much in
favor. and especially in military effects,
with frogs and gilt mess buttons.
Some of the new models in wraps are
very smart and attractive. One Of the
very newest is long, black satin coat
named the Beatrice" with loose stole
fronts above tight-ftting under-bod-
ice gauged to the figure. The sleeves
are loosely gauged below the shoulder
for depth Of several inches, escaping
from the gatherings in kind of deep
frill to the elbow, and the trimmings
are Of cut jet. This graceful design
can also be carried out in black silk
grenadine over shot taffeta silk. The
"picture" hat worn with 1t is Of accor-
dion pleated chiffon, the brim covered
by tulle frill, caught to the crown
with q bandeau Of jet. while black
ostrich plume Is set at one side.
ght-bodiced visites-which will be
much patronized this season-when
made with full. wing-like sleeves. are
particularly dressy looking, and far
more becoming to short figures than the
white capes now in favor. The short
sack coat lately introduced is a rather
odd looking garment, yet not without
becoming Quaintness. It IL, however,
only suited to tall. slight figures. A good
model in this style is Of gray-green,
faced cloth, cut short, only just covering
the waist line. It hangs square and
plain, both at the back and In front,
where It is fastened at the left side with
three old silver buttons, set high up, the
topmost almost on the shoulder line.
The collar is quite small and turns over
all around, fitting the neck closely. The
skirt is of the same material.
A new black satin diamant. the inven-
tion Of well-known Lyons manufac-
turer, has Just made Its appearance, and
promises to take high place, even among
the unusually beautiful productions in
silks and satins for the present season.
The porte bonheur," as 1t is called, Is
manufactured with an invisible tie
thread, which adds greatly to the
strength Of the fabric. In appearance it
resembles peau de sole on one side,
and on the other has the brilliancy. of
= satin duchesse. 1t drapes admirably,
and has pleasing richness and softness
Of effect. bespeaking excellence of An
ish, while 1t is guaranteed. to be poe-
sessed Of good wearing qualities.
II 1t be true that nothing under the
sun Ii new, at least some Of the new hats
would seem to refute that statement.
Tor It seems A. Il no shape. could be too
high, or too wide, or too eccentric, to
BE worn this year. There is a wide,
eqarse straw. greatly affected. which ID
bent into III sorts Of curious twists aud