davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Tho New Fashion started by Congregations
Women I'm Kansas.

TOPEKA, Kan, Oct. 3O.-Thc fashion started
by women in the towns of northeastern Kansas
TO take off their hats in church is confined prin-
cipally to the Congregational Church. For sew
cral years women delegates to meetings of tho
congregational Church Association have advo-
Gated this fashion, but until the recent session
held at the little town OF Ccntralia no special
effort was made to test tho sentiment of the
members.
1t was argued that to show proper reverence
all persons entering a place where religious SER
vices were held should remove their hats, and
that the custom observed by men should be fol-
lowed by women also. The discussion was car
ried on by the women of the association chiefly.
The men. while in hearty accord with the move
mcnt. declined TO participate in the debate for
the reason that il was n matter that the women
should settle in their own way.
The married women only participated in the
discussion. An effort was made TO get tho
views If the young women in attendance, but
they declined to give their opinions. Their
silence was taken as an indication of their op-
position to the movement. and several men at
the meeting suggested that their position was
influenced by the fact that the reform would
put a stop t. the display OF fine millinery in tho
churches. If this reform should be observed
gene ally, it would be a blow Mt the millinery
trade Of this country of "A most serious char.
actcr. for. rs advocates o. the plan in Klnsas
contend, next to the theatre the hurch is tho
BE- I place for the display OF fashion.
On Thursday night of last week. the regular
prayer meeting night, tho women of IIiawntha.
Frankfort. Centralia, Sohctha. and Horton APP
pcarcd without hats in church. Many did not
wear hats nj all, using a shawl or wrap to cover
the head, while others who did wear hats
stopped in the vcstihules of the churches and
removed them, carrying them in their hands to
their pcws and holding them in theirlaps during
the services. Many of the women in The same
churches repeated this practiC &c last Sunday. The
new custom created very little discussion, and
il was generally commented by the attendants
ut the various churches. II was received so
fnvorably that members of other religious de.
nominations are talking about il, and II will 10
no surprise If the approaching conferences Of
other denominations take UP the question.
Kansas men and women believe in adopting
customs and attending TO their religious and
political duties in their own way. Sometimes
the way is original and pictureSQue; but it goes
Just the same.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Of braid put together with an open.work stitch.
This can DO purchased all ready for use, which
will assure Its being common. and It certainly
is not pretty. Fur is used on the tailor.mado
garments. Astrachan especially makes a very
pretty finish in a narrow band, with n piping Of
orange or some bright-colored velvet peeping up
from underneath tho upper edge.
The announcement which came carly in the
season, that all skirts were to be trimmed. has
not been wholly verified in the display of new
models, for at least among the tailor gowns we
find some plain skirts. The skirt worn with tho
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

coat bodice is often plain or very narrowly
trimmed at the bottom with braid. This Is for
street wear, Of course. as all tho more drcssy
cloth gowns have very deliberately trimmed
skirts. Tho newest cut is tho skirt with the
wide circular tlounce from the knee down
stitched in plain or trimmed with bands of
braid or satin of the same color. This divides
the skirt, but it flares prcttily around the feet.
In very dressy gowns, this lower part is some.
times made of velvet of the same color rs the
cloth or silk above. Other cloth skirt models
have a seam down tho front and back, but 1t re-
mains to be seen whether this meets with favor.
The most elegant, as well as plain, cloth gowns
are made of one material. except perhaps the
sleeves. which are made of velvet in some light.
er contrasting color or OF silk embroidered in
tiny sprays. The tailor gown with n street coat
requires q waist OF some sort, and when tho
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
GIRLS ORDERED 10 marry.
John Burkhnrt's novel solution OF sae Mar
riage Question AT 81. Louis.

This marriage question is e~ternolly boh'tng
up in u new light. 1t has assumed 3 strange
phase in Il st. Louis family. According TO the
GIobc- DcniOcrGt. j. lurkhart, AN engineer OF
that city. has some novel ideas on the subject Of
matrimony. likewise three single daughters and
"A widowed one. He has n theory that every girl
should be married by the lime she is of age. If
she has not So made hay while the sun shonc, so
to speak, and gathered in her harvest in The
shape of n husband by that Time, Mr.. Burkhart
thinks that it is entirely her fault, and that she
is no longer entitled to be supported by her
parents or relatives.
One of Mr.. Burkhurt's daughters, Ella, has
Just come of age, and She alleges that her father
has issued a decree 10 tho effect that II she is
not married before the end of December she
must leave home aud support herself. Ella says
furth i that her father has arranged to dispose
of some Of the rest Oi his children. LOttie. the
eldest daughter, has been the housewife OF the
family siucr her ',n'h = di" seven years ago.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

lawyer, as they have as much right 10 the prop
crty as their father. Their claim appears TO 10
just, for il seems that eight years ago Mr.. Burk-
hart left his family and moved to Kansas City.
y thing was heard of him for six years. Tho
daughter LOttic assumed the care OF her little
sisters amt by hard work and economy the girls
succeeded in paying the interest on the mort
gage on the family property. Two years ago
the father returned and was warmly welcomed
pE nlS children. Now ne wants 10 GUST iilcln.
West, where men are plentiful. His idea would
win him few sOns.in-law indeed in good old New
England. where the last census shows the
women To be far in excess OF the men. or even in
New York. whCrC bachelor life combines all tho
joys of freedom and all the comforts of marriage.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
HERE Is TIE BUTCHER GIRL.


Father In His shop.
A sixtcen-yearold girl in San Francisco has
hit on a novel way of earning her living. Sho
has gone into the butcher business and is max.
ing n great success Of it. Her name is I.illie
kanitz, and her customers say that 1t is a real
pleasure TO have n steak or n roast cut Off and
served by q brown-eyCd slip of IA girl in a spot
less print gown and apron instead of u man in
IA spotted jacket and apron.
Miss kanitz's father. Otto Kanitz. conducts
the Log Cabin Market In san Francisco. She is
IA full partner in the business and her fathers
only assistant. The father. according to the
San Francisco CdH, is ms proud of his daughter
as possible. The girl has so mastered her trade
that when her father Is away she Is left in
charge of tho shop. She runs it like Il veteran,
too, filling orders from n quarter of hcof to a It'd.
bit for somebody's pet dog. \ girl butcher
might not be expected TO be attractive
in person and manner. This ono is.
She is said 10 be straight and 1.-the
and active, and the arm that wic!ds the clcaver
THY rounded, with a supple illlIc wrist aud Ia.
pcring fingers. Miss K;miiz has rosy checks,
brown eyes and hair. and dresses hccoIniugly''
she has a gentle manner, ald, while business
lie has made her alert and keen, il has not
taken away her girlish modrsty and simplicity.
licr parents are industrious ,icrmnu-, who, by
Years OF steady labor ana tTugnln}, haye
acquired considerable property, Tho girl
estate valued at several thousand dol,
iars.. TINS was decided to them by MIR.
KANT, but the possession o. II hn- not been a
cnG,k to the daughter ambition TO earn
lloncy for herself. She Keeps the books Of the
irin. makes out. collects, and uuys all nils, and
lcliN'fs orders TO customers In their own
homes EARLY any morning she 10 TO ho seen
with her horse and cart whisking brisl.ly from
street to street.
Miss knnitz was graduated at one of tho
grammar schools two years ago. and is. n fine
hoGsckeeper. She bought and hus paid for out
vi llfI onn NllnlINa II ann M IRA Ia ".
mcnt she made on il was SEQ, which she had
saved put Of commissions allowed by her father
rs a Olil collector, Mr. KanitI expects 10 go to
Dawson CITY next spring, leaving his daughter
TO Chrry ON thOir Joint hMsinc-s-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

gathered ruhics to hold out the cloth skirt.
which of course is quite separate at tho bottom.
street costumes of velvet in black and The
dark rich oolors arc the most elegant gowns on
the list, and they arc trimmed with fur and jet
and braid. but a pretty compromise on this ex-
travepance is the gown with a velvet bodice
and cloth skirt and sleeves, or, II you fancy, you
can have a cloth skirt and bodice with a guimpe
neck and sleeves of velvet in decided contrast.
which ia one of the newest things in fashion.
A combination OF cloth and velvet and b~raidlng
ia shown in the first illustration, which is car
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
Tender Plants sian nloOm outdoors.

An interesting evidence Of tho remarkably
mild weather of this fall was found last week In
q garden at Red Bank, n. j., where in beds
which have only the shelter OF a picket fence
there were sim 1ourishing a number Of
den plants. One of these is a large
coleus. The coleus is 30 tender that 10
Is not at all unusual TO sec 1t blncken and die
early in september, but this plant is as bright az
in summer. Tho tomato i, another very tnedeR
plant, and weeks ago It's usual season was over,
ct in this garden are half a dozen plants boar
ing fruit and putting out new blossoms. HelioAl
trope is another OF the tonder garden plants, ana
there Is heliotrope. too. in this garden still GrON6
ing and putting forth now bloom.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
where Lovers Are scarce.
Lrom IN. rhNndeIphla Pre0..

From M IhiIddcLphtd IraSs.
FORT GASES. Ga, oct. lI-IliH thriving littlr town
of 1900 inhabitants has Just celebrated its first mar
riagc In seven years. The brid" was MSS Pearl Brown
and the groom is Mr.. Joseph Cnlpcppcr, The fact
that the young people oil III" village showed no tend
enry 10 wed has been the source OF much uucasIness
for years. and when Mr., Culprircr began counting
Miss Brown tho cntira town was Ia d state of fearful
suspense. At last the engagement was announced,
aud when the InarrIage occurred every store in the
village closed its doors and almost the entire popula,
ton thronccd the church to u Itness the wedding. So
popular Il SIR. CuIpcpper On account or this step that
he viii be a candidate Tor the MayorPIty.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
She has received orders from ber father to leave

She has received orders from her father toleavo
his house by early sprinv.
eff she is married. bv that time" declares Mr..
Burkhnrt, all the better for her; II not, let her
shift for herself and do the bost sho can"
In addition to tho two marriagcable daugh-
tcrs. there is u sister named Laura and the
widow, Emma Fin ma The father has not ye!! an
nonnc9u NJ intenl1V,mS rSs"LulhS tnese. =,
comment in his noighhorhood. and his daugh-
tors arc so indignant that they discuss IL openly.
Some of the gossips have 1t that Ella is engaged
and will take her father ut his word. Others
believe that neither OF the girls will marry with
that they will place tho niinir in the hnnds of q
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

ple dress of cloth shows a velvet vest,
edgings of fur headed BY ~braiding. matching
the cloth and mixed with gold. The use of
tucKs so narrow that they look like cords is
displayed in a cloth dress with tucks down
either side Of the front, around the sleeves. and
up and down the bodice. The model is in tan
colorcd cloth. and the revcrs are of white satin
braided with gold and brown, the belt of brown
velvet, and the vest OF white chiffon. Black
tubular Russian braid trims a fourth gown of
blue cloth. edged on the bodice and epaulcts
with Persian lamb. The little vest is OF black
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
TAILOR MADE GOWNS.
Severe English Styles Altered
by Paris Taste.
NEWEST STREET COSTUMES
Features of the Seasons Fashions
Among Afternoon Dresses.

Yhe French Tailor Gown. Braided and Trimmed
without Limit, In tho OF the
Decoration - Trimmed skirts n Prophecy
Not Altogether verined-Gowns OF One Ma
teriAi-HnIsts Worn with Tailor Gowns
black Cloth Costumes Very Much In Favor
Skirt Innings Einbornteiy Made-strect
Costumes or velvet the Most Elegant
ON the Hist Novel Uses or Braid.
Fashion declares itself from time to time. and
the semi.annual revolution in dress comes with.
out any regard for the expense it involves; but
the tailor-madc gown Bobs up on the top wave
OF favor with every variation. To be sure. it is
affected by tho changes in fashion, but it has an
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Bands of cloth stitched on and finished with
fancy buttons trim q fawn cloth gown. and tho
high faring collar Is lined with turquoise
blue velvet. A Venetian shot :loth in reseda
and primrose is trimmed with horizontal bands
Of the Same down the side panels OF the skirt,
and on the coat and cuffs, giving a very plain
but stylish effect. Braid an inch or half-inch
wide, with a narrow braid on either side. makes
. pretty trimming put on in key pattern. or in
lines up and down the front seams. turning into
curves toward the back at the hem and continu-
ing around the skirt. Braid covers some of the
coats entirely, and an occasional skirt il seen
braided heavily in V shape up the back, begin
ming In a point at the waist and spreading out to
fully twenty inches at the bottom.
Some trimming up tho back of the skirts 10
ono Of the fads of fashion. and again We find
ave or seven straight rows of braid down the
middle OF the front on either side. which turn
and trim the skirt around the bottom. Some OF
the skirts are tucked all around or up and down
the front seams in five half.inch tucks turning
toward the back. Cloth Of white q: some bright
color. covered with b%raiding, is used FOR bands
and vests. and straight around rows OF brniI IN
d "Ne four, or more rows are very popular. Ono
rbrlOth rNwn l1g \ rf.r.ip.i, Ht.r 40 4.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

front. Each coat has a plain skirt Of the same
material, except the velvet blouse. which is
plum.colored trimmed with bands OF plum cloth
stitched on, while tho skirt is Of the cloth.
Very simple street costumes for morning wear
are the checked wool skirts worn with a plain
satin shirt waist, and n short jacket OF plain
cloth to match the dark color in the check.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
FRILLS or

S,,r,,.,,r ,,u, .,ir.. ,,r....
W "'' :" va, y
and plain cloth gowns. They are cut wide and
Ionr rnou-h IN mss tvyi,c ,rourd tho mock and
81, =, 30. ,,H .., 49,. 49,. 49,.
ir,ipih G win " tfil OF iaGe, insertions ana
too. cNccpt for women wi h short necks.
oolIan. 49, rai,, - 49,. . "o t",S w.
wa1n o.,,a,iaii- ton - ,.i,h ,aiIor onn
Thosc = on, J., ada uor ,n1 noir,s ond
- ~, !, ~, !, ~" ~ "a "'u p,,.S on"
IL iLnW "Uu3lc n'his g Ecu VIZ narrow iaCc,
WIFE u MT "r C. SJ Nv on " s'r"iShU o""u II I""h'
-
Collar bands are still a very distinctive point
in the cost ume. and many very sombrc rowns
boroo An ~ ,ri -, ,ara, =, a.. vi. u.;oh
adds wonderfully to the effect. Folds of white
satin with three folds of blue or red satin at tho
upper edcc make an effective collar. as do folds
shared ni"crs stand M nj The side of the back
with a friIl of lace or Chifon. bows at tho back
nC tho mock p mot in rvi6rnrn nm nny of tho
NJ" GOWNS
Roman sash rihhnns ire onnloycd very n%rcttily
for vests, and also for sashes on tea gowns.
Tho I,tcst GOATS In c,,,h ar fur > surn,io5
The he r,n cXrDut at Ito tnn HNt N'''' ~
-
W. ,r,o5 20 h o,onol ill.
so literally displayed in the shops. as they are
quite out of date. Tho fashionable substitute
for these is ANYTHING with "A Bayndcrc stripc.
cross lines at intervals. Or in plain stripes; but
some sort of cross limo is the proper thing.
Velvet ribbon, with silk fringe less than an
in. h wide f,lIjn,, bclow each row forms ono of
III, many modes nf GrrsS trjtn,uiur '''S '"0
way "'"' .,1 ''e
Tr,o ,r,,l,r, ~ ,,r, m otoL
II p'"''oAn u n"" =" oo coh''oF'"o'c III cor
sets seems TO be solved i'll the new model, which
IS straight in front, short on the hips, more ieS-
mo cling it N anoth + form.
-
called moan fo r,yo,c and r,rio 40 soio Oro;a
~ ha," ~ ~ ~, H'' it",. - I'Ni '"'s
annc clotni yer! iiEht IN Wc!Eht anu Almost as
rc with tiny silk loops all over ii.
-
Narrow ruchcs of lace are supcrscding tho
black chiffon frills used to edge collars, epau-
lets and rcvcrs.
Aluminium gray. red plum and ahbcss violet.
which is n mixture Of blue anG violet, are tho
fashionable colors.
one ol the novelties III theatre wraps is n cape
made OF fur on one side and handsome brOcaded
NeINct On Inc other, 50 thht II Is reversible. The
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
THE sHoE OF FASHION.
styles That Fashionable Crtupins Are Intro
ducinH This season.

II 1t is a question of shoes that any woman has
on her mind sho should remember that for street
wear no fiimsy thing can appeal to the critical
eye. l,oundcr. wider toes. lower and broader
heels than ever before arc at present features of
the situation. Thick extension solcs, cricket.
ers' solcs" they are called. arc looked upon as
the acme of fashion, but for the reason that it
heats and stroi,s tender flesh and muscles and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

satin finely tucked. and the belt of black satin
is laid in folds and fastened with a fancy buckle.
Another cloth Gown in green has a green velvet
band at the side and bottom, put underneath
with the effect of an underskirt; the sleeves and
yoke are of tucked iridescent silk, and the revers
is of velvet embroidered with black and gold.
Velvet bands and braid trim still another gown
which opens in front in the new way.
A novel use of braid is shown on a close-ftting
tailor bodice. where the bands point down in
front and up to the collar band in the back.
Four bands, starting on either side Of the front,
extend straight across the back. Black velvet
ribbon trims a gown of plum-colored serge, and
a pretty contrast Is made with the turquoise
blue velvet vest and turquoise buckles which
trim the black belt.
Among the coat bodices worn with plain skirts
Is one OF gree Goth with crmiDe revcrs, and a
mandarin velvet vest. Black braid trims tho
sleeves and outlines the square cut out on tho
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31
Tho Twenty-sIxrh ChId.

From the Jmdhu Ec".
Mrs. Ole Handy ~ cobb county, Ga. isthe twenty
sixth child born to her parents. Mrs. Handy has
seven brothers who were Baptist preachers and has
six nephews engaged in the same calling. Her de-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

cloth bodice Is not desired, plain satin, matching
the cloth in color. is used for a shirt waist or
made up a little more drcssy in blouse form with
innumerable tucks going around. Black satin
blouse waists are worn with any dark cloth
skirt. and. il prettily made, there is n style about
them far superior to the lowered silks SO fash
ionable last season. A velvet blouse is lovely IL
you can afford tho elegance; il not, there is a
fine velveteen which answers every purpose.
The detachable basque is a feature of these
blouse waists, which quite changes the effect.
1t is cut In tabs, or in n plain round frill without
unnecessary fullness. fitting closely over the
hips, trimmed on the edges and lined with silk.
Black cloth costumes are very much the
fashion this season. and the elaborate braiding
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

ricd out in brown cloth with a vest, collar.
cuffs, and applique trimming of velvet in a
darker shade. Gold and brown braid are tho
finish. and the belt is OF velvet with
q fancy buckle. Still another more sim
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

adds much to their elegant appearance. A
stylish effect, too. is q ned by making the vest
of velvet in some neutral color embroidered
with gold and facing the rims of the coat with
white satin. or reversing the orders and using
embroidered white satin for the vest, and facing
the revors with green or helIotrope velvet finely
tucked crosswise in groups. Another point in
the new tailor coats is the plain satin lining
usually matching the cloth in color. Figured
and striped silks are no longer in fashion for
this purpose.
There arc tight-htting short coats and blouse
coats without end as TO numbers, for they arc
already considered very commonplace by the
best dressmakers. 1t is a style SO easily copied
in cheap materials that It naturally will be
shortlivel. Medium length coats and long coats
TO the knee are shown among the modes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

established place among street costumes which
no other kind of gown can I'LL. The severe Eng
lish style which distinguished 1t some years ago
has been wonderfully transformed by the ar
tistic touch of the Partisan dressmakers. and
now the French tailor gown, braided and
trimmed without limit. rather has the lead. ex-
cept for morning and travelling wear. 1t is
tho correct thing for calling, afternoon teas.
receptions. and lunchcons, and appears at tho
theatre with good effect. as it is sure to have
some touch of bright color, some striking effect
In trimming that makes it very smart.
1t is certainly the decorating and not so much
the material that Classics the gown this season
and makes it fashionable for everyday wear or
perfectly suitable for dressy occasions. Smooth
faced cloths are the favorite materials for the
elaborate tailor gowns. as they are a good back
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

WITH Royal Baking
Powder, your cake is
always a success and
good materials are
never wasted. Low
grade powders besides
containing alum and
lime which make
them unwholesome,
are e~xtravagant, for
they often spoil the
cake, and the materi-
ais Of one spoiled cake
cost more than a
months supply Of alb
solutely pure Royal
Baking Powder.
ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO.. NETWORK.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

ground for any trimming, but there is a great
variety in the mixed fabrics. inv sible checks.
b~ayadere striped wool checks. which are made
up into simple useful gowns with rows of ma
chine stitching for the trimming. And, again.
these same materials are made quite dressy by
the addition of n pretty blouse vest and braided
revers, collars and cuffs, or the use Of a little
fur or velvet. There are pretty wool materials.
too, with crosswise stripes in both straight and
waved lines of different widths. in black on a
colored ground, and corded fabrics of two colors
woven with tucks quite like the real thing,
double and loose on one edge. Covert cloths and
tweeds are both used for the plain tailor dress,
and in the neutral tints they are relieved by
plenty of braiding in white or black. or black
and white mixed, and in tan and gold.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Long bOas are fastened at the neck and belt
with icwelled pins in the form of n clasp.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Bonnots are not worn by women much under
sixty. large hats, tOgucs. and the bOat-shaped
variety are the %favoritc styles. with here and
there n poke for the few who can wear il.
Feathers are put on 10 slant back from tho face
the preference Tor millinery. and g!acc silk and
satin are both used. Anything glossy is in style.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

Tho English brides travelling dress is inva-
riably gray lined with hcliotropc silk.