The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-06-14
ideas for dMo1nen.

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The new woman, with her knicker-
bockers and varied assortment of
trousers and her frantic efforts to reform
the entire department OF underclothes,
has brought about a reaction which is
decidedly opposed to masculine methods
of construction, and the spring novel;
ties in lingerie are as elaborate and
dainty as the most womanly woman
could desire.
The most novel feature of the new
nightgowns is the sleeve, which Is in
variably a puff. elbow length, with
a frill of lace falling below the narrow
band of insertion which confines the
gathers, and the one which is more
elaborate than all the others has first a
very short, puffed sleeve, with a lace
frill. and over this a gathered flowing
sleeve, falling just below the elbow and
trimmed with rows of lace insertion set
in between bands of the nainsook, and
finished with the lace edge.
One pretty style of gov with this
sort of sleeve is called the Queen Bess
nightgown. 1t is cut square at the neck,
trimmed around with lace insertion and
edge, and five rows of insertion about
nine inches long extend dow the front
from the neck in the gathers OF lawn.
Little bretelles of Insertion, lawn ana
edging, cut in four points on the cage,
are arranged over the shoulders. Inc
drawers which match this are very wloe'
with a full. deep ruffle of lawn ana lace
out in points on the edge and every
where the seams and insertions are nm
fshed with the tiny embroidered Dead
ing which is used in all fine underwear.
a new imitation Valenciennes, which is
heavier than the old and much p~rettier'
is the lace in use just at present, ana
4 it comes in effective patterns OF fruit
and flowers.
Dimities. in pale tints of blue, pink
and lavender, are to be fashionable ma
terial for summer undergarments, and
tbase will be trimmed with ruffles of the
same, edged with narrow lace or with
nretty. dainty edges of embroidery. Pet
ticoats of dimity are especially nice 10
wear under thin summer gowns, ana
they can be made very effective with the
inexpensive edges on the ruffles-
Among the new shapes in nightgowns is
a circular cut at the neck, trimmed
around with lace insertion and edge and
beIted in slightly at the waist with wlde
open insertion, through which ribbon is
run. More elaborate gowns In this style
have tabs of embroidered insertion three
or four inches long and edged around
with lace. falling from the insertion back
a the neck.
Another very pretty style is finely
tucked back and front to form a yoke,
cut in a small V-shape and finished with
pointed revers-shaped pieces formed by
bands of the plain lawn, lace insertion
and edge, and decorated with rosette
bows of ribbons on the shoulders and at
the neck.
The latest chemises have a little bertha
cape, made in points of alternative rows
of insertion and lawn, finished with edg-
ing, falling over the arm, while the sleeve
underneath is simply a frill of lace. There
is a lavish use of ribbon on all the under
garments, and mostly in widths much
greater than the baby ribbon which has
been SO popular.
Some of the most fluffy white petit
coats are cut to flare widely at the bot
tom, which is finished with two narrow
~ruffIes, edged with lace, and over this is
a gored n to the knee. Thu founce
: is<frimmed with wide ruffles of lace or
embroidery, and headed by a band of in
sertion.
But the most d~istracting of all is the
new silk petticoat. of white taffeta silk,
with a narrow pinked ruffle at the bot
tom. and a balayeuse of plain pink taft
feta pinked on the edges and fully nine
inches wide on the inside. Additional
fullness is given by a wide bias founce,
which extends to the knee, and the
special novelty consists of the trimming,
which is two gathered ruffles of Powered
ribbon, five inches. wide.
The colors are shades of pink on a
white ground. and the effect with the
plain pink ~balayeuse Is altogether charm
ing. Another very dainty skirt of white
has a deep ruffle of vertical rows of lace
insertion, alternated with bands of silk
of the same width, trimmed on the edge
with lace four inches wide, and headed
by a pinked ruche of white silk.
Still more elaborate is one of white bro
caded satin, trimmed inside and on the
flounce with wide point de Paris lace of
fine and heavy quality. The upper ruffle
is arranged in scallops. and bow and
loops of white satin ribbon an inch and a
half wide are set on at intervals all the
wa lOAA4ds WAAAO q
ribbon adorns the left side a little above
the ruffles. Extra fullness is given to
some of the skirts by two deep flounces
up the back, trimmed with narrower
founces, with cords run in above the
hem.
Miss Harraden is a very slow and care
full writer. and rarely alters even a word
in her manuscripts after they are once
written. Morning is her favorite time
for work. but she will often sit with the
paper before her for a couple of hours
and not write more than a line; at other
times ideas come more rapidly. She is
over anxious and eager to produce the
best of which she is capable, and
fastidious over every word. 1t is prob
ably the high state of mental tension
at which she works which is perpetually
o~vertaxing her bodily strength and lead
ing to breakdowns in health. / was
much interested in seeing the original
manuscript of Ships That Pass in the
Night" which Miss Harraden has had
bound together, writes a friend. The
writing is small. but legib1e, the altera.
lions very slight, and there is not a
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