The Roanoke times. (Roanoke, Va.) 1897-1977, 1897-12-14
FASHIONS OF NEW YORK.
Handsome Designs In Corded
Tailor Gowns.
POPULAR PLAID DRESS GOODS.

Novelties In Various Fabrics-Tho Newest
Colors-Ncw Uses For veIvet-nIodsned
Bustles in Use-Prctty Tee Gowns-Even-
ing Costumes.
copyright. 1897, by American Press Asso-
ciation.l
One of the handsomest designs in tailor
drcssmaking is where the entire skirt and
the full blouse waist arc corded Mt regular
intervals all over tho surface in round
and round pattern. No color save the tan
OF tho tno broadcloth was seen on one cos
tune, but these little ridges, with stiff
cord sewcd in, seemed to give it all it
needed to mako most elegant finish. No
ono but postgraduate in tho art of dress
making should mako an attempt at cord
ing tailor gown. The preferred colors
for fino cloth and venetian and also whip
cord tailor suits arc stone gray, tan, mode,
biscuit and dark helotrope. Some i'm
pcrial and cadet blues aro also seem The
dark, however, does not show UP well
when made, and the light is very delicate
and soils quickly.
Ovcrskirts and drapcd tunics arc among
the latest additions to the decoration of
cisc]y like those in vogue 10 and l years
ago. tho sole difference being in the braid.
ing now put upon them instead of the
Persian bands of old and tho bordering of
velvet or silk. These now are in shawl
shape, in draped tablier and in long tunic
form, caught up on one side in rich, heavy
1oluS. ~ few arc in the shape of pcplum
and are left open at the sides or in front
ana fastened across with, some arrange
mont or other to match the trimming on
the rest Of the gown.
Just now tho plaid dress goods are seen
In unusually large numbers, but tho clan
plaids with their pronounced colors nro for
the most part relcgatcd to children's wear
and very stylish shirt waists. The darker,
softer and moro subdued colors arc pre-
fcrrcd for outdoor costumes, the dark
blues, greens, browns and grays leading
III favor VclourS and poplins arc tho
leading plaids for very smart costumes,
but chcviot, cloth, camcl's hair and bou-
Giles aro better liked by tho conservative
gcntlcwomcn. Tho vclours plaids arc
shown in enormous patterns of green and
blue, with narrow lines OF light silk upon
them, like yellow and white or very palo
blue and dark red or old gold. Velvet is,
ms it always was, tho most suitable combi-
nation and trimming to use with plaid,
but some of the dark and frouzy blouscs
now arc garnishcd with braid IL military
loops and frogs
There arc some novelty wooden stuffs
whcro the solid color is of twill i'll pale
tints, overthrown with raised design in
black wool, which gives it tho appearance
OF vcrmicelli design in braiding. Some
times graduated stripes in bayadere de-
sign arc woven on, and in still other cases
the black pattern is woven i'll chcvron
lines. Still Others are bordcrcd with de-
sign of alternate blocks Of woolly black
and tho dress material. Some new zibcine
and camels hair stuffs have borders of
deep wool cstrakhan Ottoman cloth Is
new to this generation and is q durable
and handsome fabric ana is most ofton
produced in solid color Ottoman of the
best quality Is used for fine tailor costumes
1t has no luster, but u round stiffish cord
cd surface. a few pieces of ottoman cloth
have mixture Of threads in the weaving
like covert suiting. Others again have
knots and tufts of long silky black hairs.
Browns with tho black knots make UP in
to most comfortably looking gowns for the
winter. There are many novelties i'll zibc-
lines, some of tho newest having mottled
foundation in gray and black or gray and
green, etc, but all with the soft nlaments
lying like natural hairs over the surface
Among tho newest colGrs arc purplcs
of every Shade and reds from bright Grim
son to dccp OK blood. Maroon, which has
bcon out OF date many years. and peacock
DUO arc also among the now colors. Navy
blue, yale, cadet and imperial arc among
the fashionable blues, but bluet. violet sky
and baby, besides ultramarinc are seen
russian green, rcscda green, rush and
hunters green are all seen in the cloths
and vclvets, besides the silks and ribbons
Speaking CT ribbons calls to mind a
piece of new taefeta. 1t was three inches
wide and had six stripes of brilliant scar
let and 10 less brilliant emerald green
with u fine limo of cream satin between
tho two colors. 1t was too bright CON
trast for ordinary cyesight, but it was only
ono of thousands of pieces quite rs star
tilng Tor millinery purposes. The roman
stripes fer sasheS and in the silks for
waists have colors quite as raw, but some
how they are arranged so that the general
result is rich without being inhnrmonious
Some of the finest of the new Scotch plaid
silks have the lines marking the outlines
OF the design made of black velvet This
gives an Unusually rich effect, and this
pcpliim absolutely require little artificial
support, and no skirt can be successfully
drapcd without it, Draped skirts are sure
ly returning to MS. Several OF the hand
soonest gowns of this season show decided
attempts to restore the old shawl and
Wrnkluu fronts. The shawl points in
some cases arc bordcrcd with fur and have
IL head and three little fur tails ut tho
point.
Tea gowns are very pretty and as q
general rule not of such sumptuously OK
trnyagant style as they have been have
scen but one of plush. That was of cleo