The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-22
NeWeSt Fashions in Hats.
Fets Will Not Be So Popular Heretofore But Puma ore
Will Be Queen of the Realm
Special Correspondence of the Globe.

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Aug. 19-I an told
upon the very best of authority that
there will be no ironclad rules for a
long time regarding the shape of hats.
The stiff felt is no longer ruler. In it's
place is the material known as maui
chou, which is really a sort of cylinder
Of felt, which can be transformed into
almost any shape which the milliner
may desire
And there's the rub-the milliner. She
is responsible for the decadence of the
stiff and authoritative felt pattern or
shape. 1t was too much of one thing,
and if there is anything the milliner
loves it is to be able to stamp her
wares With some of her own individual
taste, which she had very hard work
to do with the stiff felt shape. I'm
doubleday there win be a sort of gem
eral uniformity. but there will be al
WAYS a difference and with a decided
distinction.
AS to the colors we are going to
wear on our heads this fall, different
shades of gray or a mixture of gray
and white will be largely in evidence.
mixtures of green and black. gray and
other dull tones frightened up with
rose color. and beige combined with
black. Beige usually appears in the
formation and is extended less fire.
quently to the trimming. For travel
ing and morning hats this color Will
be used as much as gray. The shape
most fancied for these hats is the soft
Tyrolean. with q wide band of gros
grain round the crown which is
squeezed into a deep ridge at the top.
A bunch Of quill feathers or hand
some buckle may be added by way OF
lcoration. but these hats will be ire
uuently worn without.
The new models are considered
smaller than those in vogue at pres
t Int they still have decided brims.
/ crowns seem to be most in favor,
snd todues are slightly smaller than
they were last year, and are almost
invaria bly, cooked up over the leTt ear.
For fabric hats drawn arrangements
obtained by gauging are petler nheu
than smoothly stretched material CeI
VET will be used for this purpose, QUE
,,-iil share popular favor with silk, es-
Deciallv plain. glace and MORE tattetas.
F,o, Duffed toques and hat crowns SILK
will also be used as much as NetFel'
Fancy woven materials, including lace
and net. made up over SILK, VIII pe III
demand. I'm
In trimmings, velvet plays an M
,,.ortanr mart. VelOurS, mlrolr, pam
and place. made up into fringes anu
NUTS will be preferred to ribbons 1or
his of all shapes, while some lahcy
velvets with very small dottlngS or
tiny checked effects are also seen'
Flowers will be very little uSeo utll-
ing the coming season, plumdSe tdh1lS
its place at the head. EVERY 81
plurnage will be in great oenlaiiu,
ostrich and gaura taking the LEAD LOT
tba more extensive trimmings. JET
will also be very popular, and blacK
ace will be most extensively useuc
Fhis latter is the inevitable result OF
the present fancy there is now LOT II
as a decoration for dresses
tofora and quite little fuller, the up
standing collar being cut in one with
+ba Garment. the last being decided
innovation. Braiding is used extern
sivelv as decoration for these gracetul
and becoming garments, ana mas
much to recommend 1t, as II IS service
able suitable for almost any material,
and is capable of good artistic effect.
A very dainty cape cut in this brand
new stvle was of a soft, indlstlnct
ora. trimmed with braiding of a little
darker shade in a simple but effective
nattern. and lined with rose colored
"a 4feta No better between season
yvrap can be had than one OF these
pretty capes.
Another style of braiding is also In
fevor for full dress gowns. This is
unite new as far as we are concerned,
though the custom dates back as far
as a century ago. 1t is brald1ng IN
cord made Of silk and somewhat
coarse, and will be much used this
coming season for elaborate evening
dresses. Still another kind of braid
ing is TO be used on the short, jaunty
looking Jackets that will be much
worn for late summer. One or these
Is made of bright red cloth, closed
half wav down the front, and opening
to show the shirt or blouse beneath.
The collar is small, but close fitting,
and the sleeves have only an almost
imuerceptible fullness at the shoulder.
& 1t comes down to within a couple of
siEChes of the waist, and is slashed up
on the side seams. The only trimming
IS the narrow gold braiding which
borders it all round, and is carried
around the double row of brass but
tons which adorn the side seams and
the cuffs.
We are going to wear spangles
again. both i'll jet and colors, although
the former Will be especially faShlon-
able. Jet bands in spangles and col
Ored jewels are very effective, and jet
edgings and passementeries will ap-
pear on many costumes. Steel and Jet
in combination is one of the new gar
nitures, and blouse fronts Of black net
embroidered in jet and colors will also
be much worn. Silk is to be the ma
terial this coming fall, black heading
the list in popular favor, while black
fancy silks are coming prominently
to the front. These latter will be in