davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
three or four blades and two or three han


Green is a very good color for water
dress, either for seashore wear or in the
country. and sailcloth is a good material.
Duck and drilling are the most service
able stuffs for the hottest of the weather.
A very successful dress completed lately
had skirt of sea green duck turned up
at the bottom with white linen edged with
braid of a much darker green. The blouse
was of fine white cambria with a broad
flat sailor collar edged with green ribbon.
1t opened in front upon vest of white
net run with green ribbons. 1t was worn
with a broad white ribbon belt and a white
sailor hat trimmed with wings. Such a
costume is not mealt for wear ship
board when shes snortin' under bonnets
for breath of open sea-" but for an after
noon fete On a yacht or for a water picnic
1t Is cool, pretty and has sufficient trail
of seaweed.
Blue linen makes up we'll also. 1t can
be had this summer very fine and sheer
and combines exceliently fo- the purposes
OF the water gown with ecru linen OF with
white. White flannel with no touch Of
color but small blue cord at the seams
is finding great favor in highly influential
quarters. made with an Elton jacket usu-
ally l have seen the colors reversed in
Importance once or twice and recall a par
ticularly effective dress of bright blue flan-
mel corded with white silk very sparingly.
ELLEN OSBORN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

blossom pictures did no, start the fashion
hersef and we get 1t from her.
VI course, the up-to-date woman must
nave each and all these accessories to her
toilet. Yet, If her income be small. she
can economic as to variety, get a good
quality which will last long time. and
not try to have the design Used only by
those who can afford TO follow the passing
Whlm OF an hour. A well-selected para
sol VIII keep its freshness more than one
season. A GOOD leather belt will be fresh
next year, while a pocket book of real
leather will be unworn at the end of a
years continuous service, both summer
and winter. Chatelaine bags are only
worn by those who have much to carry
or who have no pockets at all, and il PAYS
to get good bag in the first place. as IL
Will last for year. The life of a good silk
umbrella is not of the longest yet even
they should stand two winters down.
pours If of good quality, and one will have
the satisfaction of good articles, though
few in number. If one feels a little envy
of those who are able to vary with every
nod of Dame Fashions head ii should be
remembered that certain royal families
never think of altering their beautiful and
expensive garments to conform to the
within of the hour, but wear from one
generation to another their costly furs and
heavy silks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

board and lodging. both excellent of their
Kind. A thrifty woman in service needs to
spend very little on herself beyond what
1t costs for her clothing, her car fare and,
In case of illness. her Doctors bills and
medicines.
AS against domestic service the chief
objection, SO far as intelligent women are
concerned, does not lie in the amount of
the wages: it is probably due to two con-
siderations that 1t finds so little favor in
the eyes Of native-born Americans. One
objection, and strong one, is that it in
wolves a loss of caste of social standing:
that women of fair education and respect
able position in the community feel that
they descend step when they become
household assistants in any paid capacity.
second objection which servants urge
with much reason is the lack of personal
freedom which their work entails. They
nave no clearly defined hours in the small
household where one maid, or at most two
may constitute the force, and their work
Is never done. 1t is always overlapping
and In ore way or another its loose ends
are being unraveled. They must ask leave
10 go out; they must return at a certain
four. The saleswoman, the factory opera
tive the dressmakers apprentice, the
skilled needle-woman, even the charwoman
ana the !aundress. are privileged to go
nome at the end of the day, and may en-
ploy their evenings as they choose
1t would seem that there is a measure of
reason In this complaint Of insufficient in
dependence, and the remedy is in the hands
VI .ne ns.resS- Where there are several
maids there should be an understanding
that one or two Of them shall be on dutT
in the evening, but that they may arrange
among themselves the manner of their 90
ing out. Where there is only one, the
mistress ought to tighten for her the bur
den of restraint
"A housekeeper owes to fellow-residents
IN her town and in her immediate neigh
pornooa certain degree of unselfish con-
sheraton. If the scale of wages for the
maids on her street is at the rate, saw. of
$l2, $l4 and SIG per month, she must not
raise 1t In her household to SO much higher
an amount that comparison will cause dis
satisfaction. AS rule. the wage-payer
must consult the convenience of other
wage-paying people around him. and the
MaSe-earner must accept the conditions of
wage-earning in the locality where he y.
she works. This applies to maids as to
every one else. 90 ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
Paper ClOthfnr.

According to a French paper Journal, the
japanese have for a long time been making
underclothing Of their finely crisped or
grained paper by FASTING the sheets to-
gether at the edges so as to form large
pieces. After the paper has been cut to a
gether and hemn}ed. and the places where
the buttonholes are to be formed are
strengthened with calico Or linen, explains
the American Manufacturer. The material
Is very strong and at the same time very
nexible: After garment has been worn
a. Few hours 1t interferes with the move
ments of the body no more than do gar
ments made of fabric. The stuff is not
sized nor Is 1t impermeable, but even after
1t has become wet the paper is difficult to
tear. When an endeavor is made to tear
1t by hand 1t presents almost as much
resistance as thin skin used for making
gloves
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
Getting Sunday Dinners In the Sum
mcr.


mcr.
From Good Housekeeping.
There are any number. of things which
may be prepared Saturday. Usually
the baking is done then. and there Is fresh
bread with biscuits and cakes. pot of
beans Is prepared on Saturday afternoon
and warmed for Sunday breakfast. The
desserts for Sunday nay also be made en-
Saturday. and a few are easily prepared
and are good cold When fresh fruit is to
he obtained, nothing makes nicer dessert
rich cream and sugar. any of the berries.
peaches or bananas are delicious. Potatoes
may be served In a number of ways which
only take short time If partially prep ,red
on Saturday. 1t is customary to have a
roast of some kind for Sunday but this
requires hours of attention If cold meat
Is not relished. some kind which may be
fried viii only take a shcrt time to pre-
pare Chickens may be partially fried on
Saturday, so that ten or fifteen minu-es
on Sunday will finish them. Saturday
roast may be SLICED cold for Sunday even
ing. and the chicken or turkey for a salad
may be chopped on Saturday, ready for the
dressing on Sunday. There are canned lob
ster and salmon, which may also be en-
toyed on Sunday. and which are always
ready. Soups may he cooked on SarurdI y
also and relocated for dinner on Sunday.
AS for fresh vegetables. nothing is so cast
ly prepared as lettuce salad. The Lettuce
may be washed and picked over In the
morning and left in cold water to keep
bles require only ten or fifteen inmates to
cook. Fresh asparagus. II tender. requires
but fifteen minutes. and radishes may be
cleaned the day before or in the morning.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
KEEPING THE HOUSE COOL.
by a Little Care Intense summer Heat
Can Be Greatly Modified.

Dy q Little Care Intense summer Heat
Can Be Greatly Modified.
How best to keep the house cool in sum-
j mer is a grave problem" writes Mrs. S. T.
Rorer in the Ladies' Home Journal. Dur
ing the hot months the house is much
more livable if artificial heat can. be cut
down to the minimum. Use the stove early
In the morning, prepare certain foods that
will keep well, and avoid the necessity OF a
big fire during the rest of the day. Bare
floors are very much more pleasant in
summer than straw mating, although the
latter is preferable to carpets or rugs.
Where one can command a water supply
the house is measuraby cooled by reducing
the temperature of the pavement and
grounds around by copious sprinklings. A
goodly stream of new air should be allowed
to sweep through the entire house morning
and evening The hot air of midday will
condense quickly on cold walls and cause
mold or dampness, consequently Ii should
not be allowed TO enter any portion of the
house. All the rooms in the house should
be kept scrupulously clean and neat.
If the outside temperature is not appre-
clably lower at night than during the day
1T is almost impossible to keep sufficiently
comfortable to obtain necessary rest. The
sleeping rooms may be cooled by placing
in the center of each tub two-thirds full
OF cool, or better, icewater. This will alb
SorD the neat OF the room IN "A Few hours
and will be found particularly helpful
where there are children. If the heat con-
tinues during the night the changing of the
water will preserve an even temperature in
the room. Air your cellars at night when
1t is possible. Close them at nine in the
morning and they will be cool and dry the
entire summer. Exceptions to this rule are
on windy days, as the rapid motion Of the
air does not allow condensation. Keep the
cellar perfectly clean and fresh Frequent
coats OF whitewash with plenty of lime are
OF the greatest value in summer"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
Parisiennes for the Nonce Are Quiet
in Their Tastes.
RESULT OF THE RECENT DISASTER
A Tea Gown Designed by Felix,
the Famous Costumer.
DARK BLUE IS POPULAR
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
Copyright, 1897, by WIN. Du I;ois.)

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
Copyright, 1891, by VIM Du I;ois)
PARIS, July .. 1897.
Even the late sporting festivities have
not been able to lift Paris out of its de-
lection over the fearful catastrophe OF
the Bazaar de Charlie. Bright colors. W hich
had reigned before in joyous anticipations
of the gay flower corso. for which exten-
tive prepa1 atoms had already been made,
and which instead changed to doleful
funeral professions. were suppressed, and
silver gray gowns trimmed with black pas
sementerie or jet, or black dresses with
jet ornaments and get boleros, indicate the
concessions made to the general mourning.
1t is not surprising that even her garb of
sorrow the Parisienne wears with CO.
quettishness which is all her own. This is
shown in the graceful little black capotes,
jet trimmed and adorned with black plume
aigreties folded bands of black velvet
fastened with antique oxidized silver
buckles Ruches of black silk gauze and
neck trimmings of black ribbon are worn
with white batiste summer gowns. Black
and white. therefore, come anew to the
fore. particularly for the demitoiette. A
white MORE gown with black silk bolero,
with jet embroideries, jet buttons and
shoulder garnitures of jet and black tulIe.
proved so charming combination, ard
cOnD!nc0 lrODrlety Win chic IN Such a
becoming manner. as worn by beautiful
blonde at recent grande monde recep-
ton. that it created due furore and ad-
miration.
Among the silks which are likely to take
the fancy of the public are black and white
striped noires. white silk reps sreckled with
black, white and black Pekins, linon either
black or ecru crossbarred with lines of
black, and grenadines with large black and
white checks Closely woven taffeta with
designs N velvet pile is shown as novel,
ty. AS costume materials of various de-
grees OF usefulness must be reckoned-fine
white cloth. cashmere serge, nuns yelling
and etamine among wooleDs, and among
washing materials, white pique reps and
soft India muslin.
Color Combinations.
Other color combinations, novel as well
as subdued are found in the use of lilac
and silver gray. dainty cape in these
colors she VS. a cloth application silk.
decorated leaf designs in white, white
MORE lining and full neck-frill with bow
and long ends of ''poudre de riz'' tulle.
Dark blue also ascends in public favor
since its use is no longer confined to outing
costumes.
A beautiful gown of dark blue cashmere
veloute has just left our ateliers to be worn
by woman whose typical beauty is in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
The Rage for Jewelry.
From the London Truth.

IrOm INC LoDNcn Truth.
What rage there is for jewelry, mock
and otherwise. We know a girl who wears
diamond combs in her hair at tennis. Our
chsrwoman arrived in diamond earrings
(price probably, something like farthings)
the other morning: and a retired charwo-
man Of our acquaintance. whose husband
10 postman, had a row of pearls sewn on
the edge Of the white frilling round her
black cloth jacket when last she called tor
9ood advice and broken victuals. But she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

ton than all the rest of her trousseau. The
most serviceable of these dresses is at the
same time the smartest. 1t was chosen
for wear when good byes were said on
board ship before the anchor was up and
the sailor boys proceeding to walk her
down to Mother Carey when she feeds her
chicks at sea-" 1t is not necessary to con-
clude that there is nothing new under the
sun If 1t be stated that this preferred gown
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
Written for The Evening Star.
"Tra

AFaumlie0.
Dream Song)
Away with care. Let silence reign,
And DER ne. sweet sleep, steal again;
Let memories of the long ago
Pour through my soul their sunny glow.
Fair foiest flowers,
Cool drops OF rain,
And golden hours
Are come againl
wander down the beechen glade
Where oft in childhood have strayed
On waves OF bliss my senses swim
Into land OF shadows dim;
Each friend OF boyhood DOW appears
And smiles. as in those by gone yean
The misty dawn,
The sunbright noon,
The emerald lawn
Lit by the moon,
Are by remembrance glorified, A
With not a shade nor tint denied
Thus calmly sleeping let me die;
Yea, thus breathe ont my last, deep sigh,
At some bright midnight, when the vale
Low echoes to the nightingale.
The prison bars
Thus drawn away,
Above the stars
Ny childhoods May
Shall come again to bide with me,
In Code own garden sorrow-free.
Adapted from the German by L. s. PERKINS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
"Her M Has, Gets.o

From the London Spectator.
Won Moltke was an early riser and loved
early risers Once, while roaming around
his Silesian estate at daybreak, he found q
peasant woman bearing on her back q
sack. Of potatoes which she had Just dug.
making q load heavy enough for q mule.
Here's a thaler for you" said the great
field marshal; you see. the early bird
catches the worm" Afterward he found
out that she was q night thief who had
ravagcd his fields persistently, but whom
his steward had never got UP early enough
to catch.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
THE WAGES OF THE MAID.
Why Natiye-BOrn Women Object to
Domestic Service.

Domestic Service.
From Harper's Bazaar.
The wages of the maid are larger in some
cities than in others, and in some parts of
the same city they vary according to
the comparative wealth of the residents
But everywhere the wages of women en-
gagged in homework are relatively larger
than the salaries earned by women in
branches of business involving no more
skill or capacity than Is required of the
domestic assistant. 1t must be remember
ed that in addition to her weekly or month
ly stipend the cook and the waitress the
parlor maid and the seamstress have also
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

who was married two
weeks ago with the
scent of roses and OF
clover drifting in at
the church door is by
this time smelling
salt instead of flow
ers. She Is spending
her honeymoon cruis-
ing along the Allan
tic coast in prepara-
ton for which delight
her yachting gowns
claimed moro alton
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

Frank-"Some genius in Birmingham has
invented q buttonless shirt"
Billy-.sWhy, that's old I've worn them
ever since my wife learned to ride bike. !"
-Tid-Bits.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
A Costume Designed for a Yachting
Cruise.
OF EVER-SERVlgEABLE BLUE SERGE
Would Be Quite as Effective at a
Seaside Resort.
GOWNS OF GREEN DUCK

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, July IA, 1897
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
The Temptation Too Great.
From Life.

Ellen-''Why don't you put a couple of
oysters on those black eyes o. yourn?''
Toni did. tried 1t tweed. but some
how / can't never get them no furder nm
than my rnout."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

Want" ads. in The Star pay because
Ihey bring answers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17

IOINHA' July Ie'Vs'
YOUNG WOMAN
~ who was married two
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-17
Accessories to the Toilet.

Fans are so monotonously and uniformly
Of the short length known as Empire"
that even our japanese neighbors are maxi
Ing them in that style, and noted Js pam
ese house in New York shows thousa nds
Of fans, all short. until one wonders wseth-
" the slmond-eyed lady in the cherry
The Florida agriculturist. [volume] (DeLand, Fla.) 1878-1911, 1897-12-15
Transplanting Trees.

In transplanting trees there are
few fundamental principles, that, TO
secure the best success, should be
recognized One of these principles is
that trees obtain their food through
very small rootlets that are thrown
out annually from the roots, and
when these small rootlets are de-
stroyed-as large part OF them nee
essarily are when the nursery trees
are duo-the tree is without any me-
dunn through which to obtain susie
nance from the earth until new root
let's have again formed. The time in
which a tree will supply itself with
a new growth of these feeding root
let's varies considerably according to
the species to which the tree belongs,
and also to time of year, weather,
and environments of the newly plant
ed tree.
In the extreme South, the growth
of these feeding rootlets is almost
continuous, and although the tops OF
the trees are at some seasons practi-
The Florida agriculturist. [volume] (DeLand, Fla.) 1878-1911, 1897-12-15

in Florida, when Mexico. was called
upon to supply the shortage in or
anges caused by. that catastrophe.
1t will be remembered that rIorida
buyers were compelled to purchase
hundreds of car loads of the Mexican
fruit to supply contracts, and this
fruit was sold even in the cities of
Florida. Then the worm was dis
covered. Immediately the danger of
this pest became apparent, and the
Department, as soon as it could, be-
gan an investigation of the habits
and localities of the insect. 1t now
has an agent in Mexico, who is con-
Quoting a systematic inquiry to de-
termine just what localities are af-
fected. in order that suitable quar-
antine restrictions may be applied to
fruit therefrom.
At first it was thought that the
orange worm was confined to the
State of Morellos, but reports from
the agent indicate that it is found al
so in Vera Cruz, and the department
scientists are inclined to believe that
it's spread will be found to have been
even wider.
Most persons directly interested ill
orange culture are familiar with the
maggot. 1t has nearly prototype
in this country in the apple maggot,
or railroad worm, of the Northeast
ern sections of the United States. 1t
is about a quarter of an inch i'll
length, and is of precisely the color
of the meat of an orange, so much so
that it requires the closest scrutiny
to detect it. From the worm stage
it turns into a fly, and energies from
the fruit The fly is small, measur>
ing from wing tip to tip about half
an inch, of smoke color, and the
wings notified. A peculiar feature
of the pest is that the infected fruit
bears absolutely no exterior mark OF
the presence Of the worm So far as
known, it affects only oranges.
The danger of the Introduction OF
plant pests and diseases through the
importation of nursery stock caused
the convention of horticulturists,
which met in this city last March, to
draft a national quarantine to cover
such conditions, and bill was form
ed and presented to Congress. The
attention of the convention was
called to the orange worm and sim
liar pests, and the bill was framed
to cover fruits, also. The measure is
pending before Congress, and an ac-
tive effort will be made during the
approaching session to secure action
upon it.
The Florida agriculturist. [volume] (DeLand, Fla.) 1878-1911, 1897-12-15
kumquat.-G l.. Taber in Southern
Ruralist.
The Scuppernong.

neglected.. Men are prone TO overlook
blessings by which they are imme-
diately surrounded while searching
abroad for those less to be desired but
enchanting in the distance.
The scuppernong is the only variety
of this type usually planted, very few
farmers being aware of the fact that
there are others very much it's SUI
perior.
In 1886 eight varieties were planted
twenty feet apart, in rows, along the
margin of branch, and trained upon
a trellis of three wires. The vines
have been annually pruned by spur
ring back the canes of the growth of
the previous season to six inches.
This type must be pruned in Au
tumn, just after the leaves fall. If
pruned later, there is danger of de-
structive bleeding. This method of
training places the crop of fruit in
easy reach, increases the size of the
berries and bunches, and insures a
larger yield of grapes of better quail
ity.
The Thomas commences to ripen
August Is, thus continuing the supply
from the vineyard of the other types.
Other varieties ripen in succession
until the middle of September, and
furnish fruit till October.
The Memory and Mish are especially
desirable, combining the good quail
ties Of vigorous growth, hardness,
productiveness and very superior
quality.
Desiring to secure the verdict of as
large jury as possible, very many
visitors were taken through Ills vim
yard for the purpose Of comparing
the varieties. Without exception the
Memory and Mish were pronounced
superior to the Scuppernong. Of the
ten varieties compared, the Memory is
by far the most vigorous grower.
All are free from disease except an
occasional very slight attack of black
rot. The proximity of diseased vines
of other types may have furnished
the spores for the disease.
To propagate this type use long
cuttings, taken in October or early in
November, or layer the vines at any
time from October to March.
The Scuppernong, James and Jeter
drop so readily from the bunch as to
cause great waste in gathering. The
stem is attached to the berry exter-
nally. The Thomas, Memory and
Scuppernong seedlings do not shed so
readily though attached externally.
The Flowers, Flowers Improved, Mish
and Tenderpulp adhere firmly to the
bunch, having the stem attached in
ternally. These last named varieties
can be gathered and shipped in
punches as readily as Concord or Ives.
The Mish and Memory are both
rated best as to quality, though they
differ in many respects. The Memory
is best in flavor and the Mish best in
sweetness. The Memory produces a
very large berry, while the Mish is
small. Both continue long. i'll season.
The new steamer Miami which Mr.