davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1897-09-26
Even Tailor-Made Gowns
Have q Loose Effect
THE CRAZE FOR BRAIDINe
RETURN OF THE BOX PLEAT FOR
SKIRTS AND BODICES
New Capes Have Side Openings for the
Arms Which Add Greatly to
Ones Comfort

NEW YORK, Sept. 20.-(Special Cor.
respondence) The reign of the blouse is
supreme. Even the tailor made gown.
that most fetching contrivance, which
is supposed to show the admirable out
lines of the wearer Is largely affected
and no longer clings to the figure as l.
it had grown there. The blouse is in
everything. 1t is king or queen or what
ever you like to call it, but anyway, If
you wish to be in fashion, do not forget
the blouse for single moment.
Now the question is whether it is COM
fort or vagary of style which has brought
this about. 1t is certainly not economy,
for the blouse takes more cloth than the
tight fitting gown, as every woman
knows. I have set it down as due to two
reasons. The stout women like the blouse
because it is extremely comfortable. The
women who are not stout like 1t because
The herald., 1897-09-26

The photographer must not only be an
artist so far as the appearance Of the
word on his sign Is concerned, but he
must also be a bona flde affair, capable
Of posing and If necessary causing his
sitters to alter the arrangement Of hair
or apparel, in order that the very best re-
suits be secured. 1t Is the advent of per-
sons capable Of these things into pho
Biography that has brought about mat
terS like this new fad, for none but a
photographer and a born artist would
have ever conceived SO quaint and
charming thought as this one is prov
ing to be. Ono has no idea Of the unex
pected beauties which may be developed
in very plain young woman by the use
Of what has come to be known as the
picture hat. The trouble often Is with
feminine whom nature has given ample
proportions, both OF face and body, that
she insists upon wearing a small hat.
close brim and Of shape altogether about
as fitted to her particular style Of hu-
manity as green and blue are to form a
fetching combination.
Now comes the artistic photographer.
The young woman goes to him to have
her likeness immortalized and mourns
the fact that she "never looks we'll In a
picture" The sharp eyed artist needs
no observation glass to discern the rea-
son. The young lady has said she wishes
to be "taken with her hat on" Ye gods,
what hat! This Is where the new hat
comes in, II the artist is really clever.
He tells the sitter that the very latest
way to have ones picture taken Is to
pose In as large hat as one can COM
fortably appear in. 1t takes. The large
hat is secured, and when the young wo-
man sees the proofs Of her pictures she
declares that the photographer is
dear" and is the only man who ever
succeeded in taking picture of her that
resembled her in the least. Victory for
the new hat.
The facts in the case have only just
come out, so far as the general adoption
of the idea Is concerned We have heard
rumors Of the popularity Of the plan for
some time, but the butterfly of beauty
has only just emerged from its chrysalis
so fan as the public is concerned, and
now we may look for lively flight there
of among the flower of the feminine pop
ulation.
Another fact which contributes some
what to the popularity Of the comblna-
The herald., 1897-09-26

once. The development Of the idea
naturally created rev methods and the
picture hat is one of the most charming
of them all. It took 1t will be seen, an
American girl to teach the artistic Old
World what the most artistic of one Of
the greatest of arts really was.
Sometimes the person who sits for a
photograph will take a notion that in
stead Of painting they would like to ap-
pear as the central object of an en-
craving. Modern Photographic meth
DDS make this easy of accomplishment,
and as we look at one of these pictures
it seems as If the friend whom it repre-
sents had suddenly been exalted to that
ambitious height reserved for those who
have won the attention of fame.
And now, IL the young woman, wheth-
er of the four hundred or the sixty mill
lion, wishes to appear to be in touch
with all that is fashionable, she should
have herself photographed in big hat,
evening gown and so posed that 1t will
appear as If she might have just stepped
out of one of thoBe must charming Of
paintings which we know as Gains
boroughs and the flower of the artistic
genius Of Sir Joshua Reynolds
One of the funniest things possible is
to take some old album and see how peo-
pie used to dress when photography first
came into vogue. You will come across
in any old book photographs of dowagers
in rustling silks and huge crinolines, ap-
parently pacing the sands Of the sea-
shore. Unluckily, 1t never used to oc-
cur to the Photographic artist of that day
to blend in the slightest degree the
toilettes Of his sitters with the scenery
he put at the back of them.
Hence some very amusing contradic-
tions were sent down to posterity. The
meekest of men and most unlikely Of
women were discovered leaning against
enormous marble pillars, or on the point
of ascending noble marble staircases. 1t
was only by filtering through a period
when what were known as vignette
photogra phs were the fashion that We
happened upon dresses nnd scenery more
properly artistic.
The herald., 1897-09-26

II gives them a fuller appearance tnan
would otherwise be the case.
The stout woman always thinks more
of her comfort and the slight woman OIL
her appearance, because the stout wo-
man has given up all hope OF ever ap-
nearing slight, and the slight woman en-
vies her her composure. So it is not at
all unlikely that the blouse has come to
stay.
A modiste with whom held converse
on the subject the other day said this
to me-which is so true that give 1t
for the benefit of those who care to read:
Madame, we are gradually coming to
that point where comfort is constantly
considered by fashion. The moment you
reach that stage, just that moment what
we people who make dresses call COM
mon sense is also considered. The result
Is the blouse"
If the blouse Is not worn 1t Is replaced
by coat effects or the double-breasted
bodice, which holds its ground, and will
be largely used this winter. These
double- breasted affairs all have the left
hand jabot, and since. heavy woolen
goods is scarcely adaptable to this pur-
pose, the frills will be Of lighter fabrics.
such as silk, chiffon or lace. A little
later on, the jabot will be made of the
bodice material, less full, and edged with
fur to harmonize with the gown. or made
of fluting of fur. While in the depth
of winter these blouses will appear made
entirely of fur, especially sealskln and
astrachan.
| If there is one thing which can compare
with the rage for blouse effects. 1t is the
craze for braid trimmings. Everything
that is susceptible to that treatment-and
some things that would seem not to be as
well-has artistic scrolls and curves and
straight lines of braid thereon. generally
| in rather strongly contrasted color. bu:
braid at all events The figures are ar
! ranged horizontally. vertically. diaRo.
The herald., 1897-09-26

ways think: "What is there about that
picture that gives you such an unfa-
vorable impression? 1t is pretty and
yet it is ugly, as we'll"
Dame Rumor has 1t that 1t Is to
new woman that the development of the
picture hat fad is DUE The lady is Miss
Alice Hughes, a young American who
wert to London, England year or two
ago, with the idea that she would there
find better field for new idea she had
than the United States offered. That
idea was to pay especial attention to
posing, to make every sitter appear in
the photograph as If she was taken from
a painting. The result was delightful,
and fortune smiled on Miss Hughes at
The herald., 1897-09-26
MY WIFE

Who always greets me with kiss,
Who makes me think that life's a bliss
I never could afford to miss?
My wife.
Who chucks me underneath the chin,
Makes me assume the broadest grin,
Then touches me for all my "tin?"
My wife.
Who sits up for me late at night,
Who ofttimes burns the midnight light,
Who's so afraid I'll come home tight ?
My wife.
Who, when chance to celebrate"
And have to be brought homo in state
Calls me a low inebriate?
My wife.
Who tucks me snugly Off to sleep,
Then goes into my pockets deep.
And leaves me not cent to keep?
My wife.
Who writes up to her mother dear
To lay aside home thoughts and care
And come and live with us year?
My wife.
Who makes my shirts two sizes small,
The herald., 1897-09-26

tion Of beauty and photography is that
the best artists Of today are those who
can best pose their patrons. Posing is
as much gift as painting. There are
many photographers who have eyes that
are artistic enough, goodness knows, but
their pictures are always stiff. There is
something that makes the observer al
The herald., 1897-09-26
Who makes my spring ties in the fall.
Makes collars that won't fit at all?
NV wife.

"
Makes collars that won't fit at all?
My wife.
Who loves me, oh, know so well,
Who loves me more than tongue can tell,
Whom do honor and revere,
Whose face is fairest of the fair,
From whom is 1t I'll never part,
Who has the keeping Of my heart?
My wife.
L. Porcher Hext In Savannah Press.
The Stuttgart society for the Promotion
of Art has placed bronze bust Of Rubin
stein over the door of the house, No. /
Augusterstrasse. in that city, where for
many years the great musician dwelt
eking out living as q pianist and not too
well appreciated composer.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
Cures
"Cures talk y in favor -
OF Hoods Sarsaparilla, IL
as for no other medi- IL

cine. Its great cures recorded in trut hful,
convincing language OF grateful men and
women, constitute its most effective adj
vertlslng. Many of these cures are mar.
0elous. They have won the confidence of
the people; have given Hoods Sarsapa.
r1lla the largest sales in the world, and
have made necessary for its manufacture
the greatest laboratory on earth. Hoods
Sarsaparilla is known by the cures it has
made-cures of scrofula, salt rheum and
eczema, cures OF rheumatism, neuralgis
and weak nerves, cures of dyspepsia, live,
and kidney troub les, catarrh and malaria
Such Cures as This Prove Merit.
My little nephew was a plump and
healthy baby until year and a half old,
then sores broke out behind his ears and
spread rapidly over his head, hands and
body. physician said the trouble WAS
scrofula humor in the blood. The child
became one complete sore. We had to
restrain his hands to keep him from
scratching the sores. We were induced
to try Hoods Sarsaparilla, and in a short
time he had more life. He improved rap
IDLY, his skin became entirely clear of
sores and he is now healthy child" MRS.
FLORENCE ANDREWS, Clearfield. Iowa.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
THE EX.QUEEN.

/, Some exception is taken to our
. statement made yesterday regard
the morals of the eX-Queen. He
is an arrant fool who believes that
; the westward movement of the
american Star of Empire" can
be affected by the morals Of Il
ruler. He who believes that he
can lassO that star, with string,
and pull it out of its course hasn't
dealt largely in astronomical
forces.
AS to the eX-Queen, her poiiti-
cal conduct was more than stiff
cient to justify the action OF the
men who had the courage to over
turn the Monarchy. Her conduct,
in its political aspect only. was
Merely part of the general drift
of things. inevitably working to-
wards construction and chang
es. Jt is story that has been re-
peated a thousand times In his
tory, and there is nothing unus-
nal or strange about it.
For ourselves, we have an abid-
ing faith in the necessity for
truth, politically or otherwise. AS
for the eX-Queen's morals" i'm the
sense in which it is used, the evi-
dence against her rested on sus
piciOn only. There was no evi
dence which any court would en-
terrain as conclusive or even pre-
sumtive. So the late Charles L.
Carter told us. He had examined
the matter carefully. The issue
raised in that direction was of &c
consequence, when there was an
abundance of the most convincing
testimony that she was ready, had
tried, and would again try, to de
strOy stable Government here
She had committed political sins
enough to warrant the events CT
'93, and it was not necessary to
suggest other matters which
might be true, but the legal Droof
of which was lacking.
1t is precisely this kind of IT.
responsible testimony, based Gu
rnmOrs, that leads Il large number
of influential American papers to
affirm constantly that the present
Government of Hawaii is compos-
ed of "missi0nary thieves and pi-
rates"
Errors about facts make poor
cement in the foundations of a
moral structure. They are sure to
dissolve and endanger its stabil-
ity.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
HOW TO PREVENT PNEUMONIA

At this time of the year a cold is
very easily contracted, and if left to
run its course without the aid of some
reliable cough medicine is liable to re-
suit in that dread disease, pneumonia
We know Of no better remedy to cure a
cough or cold than Chamberlain s
Cough Remedy. We have used it quite
extensively and it has always given en-
tire sfaction-Olagah, Ind. Ter.
Chief
This is the only remedy that is
known to be certain preventive of
pneumonia. Among the many thou
sands who have used it for colds and
la grippe, we have never yet learned
of a single case having resulted in
pneumonia. Persons who have weak
lungs or have reason to fear an attack
of pneumonia, should keep the remedy
at hand. For sale by all druggists and
| dealers, Benson, Smith and Co., agents
for Hawaiian Islands.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
OPIUM.

The case of Estate of Chun
Lung VS.. =. Ahmi, involves the
opium license granted in January
1887, to Chun Lung for the eXclu-
sive sale of opium in the Islands.
The license was capitalized at
500, 1000 and the shares taken by
several Chinese. The evidence
before the Court was that the pro
fits of the business, during Ii
months of its continuance were
ITO per cent. or $4,000.
This judicial finding of fact is
extremely interesting. 1t puts at
rest all rumOrs about the real
value of the traffic.
The Importation of opium is
now forbidden, although it is per-
mitted in the country to which, so
far as we can do so, we have an
nexed ourselves. In spite of the
vigilance of the Customs officers,
the article is here, and in "moder-
ate" price. The Legislature might
as we'll have enacted a law forbid
ding water to run through a sieve.
The demOralizing effect of a law
which gives to the 'informer" or
captor, a part of the fine, or value
of a Struggled article, appears
here in certain quarters among
the lesser officials. as it has ap-
peared in other countries. This
general decentralization in other
countries leads to the repeal of
laws giving captors any special
reward.
The average citizen does not ap-
preciate the effect of a reward on
an official who is earning small
wages. 1t tends TO convert his du-
ties into a lottery. and fix his
mind on handsome rewards. rath-
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
er than on the dull routine of
duty.

Any one acquainted with the
working of political machines of
a low order, sees the great value
of such an arrangement as the
Opium matter in practical politics
We make no allusiOn or reference
to it in connection with our own
Customs and Police administra
ton.
If Mr.. Richard Croker of y. Y.
were induced, for health reasons,
to settle here, he would promptly
say: Boys don't let the mission
aries repeal the opium law. 1t is
too valuable to lose. Make those
people believe as we make them
believe in New York, that sin
must be suppressed by the Police,
and then we can tax sin in our
own way, and make it support the
boys while they run the machine"
In the event of annexation our
own law prohibiting the impOrta-
ton of opium must give way,
under the constitutional provis-
ions of the United States, al
though prohibition of it's sale
would be legal under territorial
law. But the matter should be
taken out of politics, for it can be.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31

WHICH tney may not reign.
The door nail in earlier times was
the plate Of the door upon which the
old fashioned knocker struck to arouse
the inmates of the house. As the plate
or nail was struck many more times
than any other, it was assumed TO be
more dead than any other nails. Hence
the phrase: Dead as door nail" If
old ideas are to be revived, as now
seems possible, the phrase may soon
have present application-Har
Acadia University, Wolfville, n S.
is making an effort for the payment Of
its debt and the further equipment Of
the institution. The amount needed is
$4,000, and John D. Rockefeller has
agreed to give $4,000 on condition that
the remainder-$60,0 00-shall be SUBJ
scribed by November /, 1898.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31
PERSONAL AND PECULIAR.

One man who escaped from the ill
fated Tasmania had a unique expert
ence, says the Sydney Bulletin. When
he arrived at his home in Osborne he
found all his luggage placidly await
ing him. 1t had been washed ashore
at Osborne, 25 miles from the scene
of the wreck, and sent up to his home
President Kruger of the South Afri-
can Republic states that Cecil Rhodes
lis trying to undermine that nation.
Rhodes is considered by Stead as the
greatest man since Napoleon
The conductors and mOtOrmen on the
Hartford Comm street railway lines
have been ordered not to chew tobacco
while on duty.
Kink Humbert of Italy carries seven
and half millions life insurance and
hoe L
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31

We have a full assortment
of Horse Goods, including
Whips, Sponges, Rugs, etc.,
etc., and a visit to our store
will repay you.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-12-31

very substantially for a rainy day in
which they may not reign.
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
COUNTY WARRANTS REDEEMED /

COUNTY WARRANTS REDEEMED
Notice is hereby given th9t*he follow
ne County warrants will bePaid empress
entation to theEounty Treasurer at his
Office in Mt Idaho, Idxho County, state
of Idaho, and that sEterest on said war
rants will cease o9p<he fourth, day Of Oc-
tobcr, 1897, to wSt: warrants Nos 204
and POS Cur-sEsx. Fund 1892. warrants
Nos III to lS0inclusive, Gen. Road Fund
1897. Warrants Nos 253 and 254 Cur. FIX.
Fund 1897. Dated September gath 1897.
GEO. NJ. ROBERTSON Co. Treas.
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
County Warrants Redeemed.

Notice is hereby given that the
following county warrapts will be
paid on presentation t9fthe county
treasurer at his Office il Mt. Idaho,
Idaho and that Interest on said
warrants will cease 6nNthe End. day
of Nov. 1897, to VIII
Warrants No. 255 to 266 Inclusive,
Current expense fund, Anfil 1897,
warrants No. 106 to 107 inclusive.
General road fund January 1897.
warrants Noy191 inclusive General
road fund April 1897.
warrants No. 1872 to 1873 inclusive,
General road fund July 1897.
warrantsiNo. 206 to 210inclusive
Current Expense fund, Octo Der
1892.
Dated, October 22nd. 1897.
Geo. NJ. Robertson,
Co. Treasurer
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
Card of Thanks.

EDITOR REPORT: Please permit us
through the columns of your paper
to extend our most grateful thanks
to the good people of Cottonwood,
for their many acts of kindness dur
ing our late unfortunate and serious
illness having as stranger fallen
in their midst and especially do we
Iecognize the skill and care OF Dr.
Turner, the generous and full heart
ed hospitality of Mr.. and Mrs
Rocks, OF the St. Albert, hotel; the
many brotherly kindnesses OF the
Odd Fellows. The remembrances OF
these kind acts will always be to us
like bright flowers strewn along
life's rugged pathway.
Mr.. and Mrs. Pemberton.
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22

Stephen Fem is preparing to
move his feed stable to the opposite
side of the street.
]. w. Gains of Cottonwood was
in this neighborhoodlast week buy
ing hogs.
There will be meeting of the cit
liens of school district No. 10 Oct.
20 to select site for new school
building.
We people of Salmon river are
much in need of Notary Public.
Who will it be?
The feed on the river is unusally
good this fall, and stockmen are re-
joicing, cattle will be in excellent
shape to withstand the winter.
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
ADDITIONAL COUNTY NEWS.
Stuart News.
School started last Monday.

School started last Monday.
j. Williams is filling his livery
barn with choice hay from his
ranch.
III. Chenoweth mahe a flying trip
TO Grangeville on the 9th.
Prof. Vercler moved in Monday
last and now occupvs the Grayson
building on river fronts
An Indian carried off the lucky
humber and won the tea set at
Crosses store greatly to the chargrin
Of the ladies OF Stuart.
F. Turner's family moved into
the Robbins building on the 4th.
Rev. G. Chase delivered very in
terasting sermon to the Stuart peo-
pie the 10th. and will hold service
Ut this place again the End. Sunday
In November we extend a cordial
invitation to ALL
j. l.. Gross is having a new store
built on his lot adjoining the old
one which will be larger and more
eonvience in every way.
VIM. Grant made more desks and
added other convience to the school
house during the last week.
Harry Renshaw passed through
here today en-route to Kamiah with
freight for the Renshaw store at
that place.
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
White Bird Warblings.

Weather very pleasant with cool
frosty nights
The Salmon river people who
have been harvesting in the Palouse
are arriving home daily.
A. Cooper and g. w. Curtis ar
lived home Saturday from the Spo-
kane Fair where they report seeing
the elephant and having a good
time generally.
There will be grand ball at
Whitebird on Thursday eve Oct. %
in honor of the home coming of the
Palouse harvesters.
Mr.. Clark of Spokane is expected
daily to begin devlopement work on
The claims in which he is interested.
A lively day Whitebird last
Sunday Nc. says that barkeeping
Isn't what it is cracked up to be.
Mr.. Whitney is putting up a
Building. go x 30 to be used as a
hlsslsthith shop,
Cottonwood report. [volume] (Cottonwood, Idaho) 1893-1901, 1897-10-22
That Winter Mail Schedule.

Ii is stated that the department
will soon be petitioned to change the
,Uniontown and Mt. Idaho mail SER
vice to the winter schedule. At pre-
sent the eastern mail reache Lewis
ton at 1890 p. m. having connected
with the Spokane train at Union
town the same evening. Under this
schedule the mail for Idaho county
and interior points is ira n sferred to
the 3 a. m. stage. and reaches the
Camas Prairie towns twenty-four
hours after leaving Spokane. By the
proposed new schedule the mail will
be held at Uniontown over night
reaching Lewiston the following
morning. At Lewiston it will be
till afternoon and will not reach
/ IDAHO county till the following day
SIP okane mail to Idaho county will
thus be at least forty-eight hours in
reaching its destination.
The purpose of the post office de
partment is to afford to the public
the most competent service possible
and it is hoped that the i'll adyised
proposed change will not be made.
The change will not benefit Lewis
toms present service, and would be
an injustice to the citizens of every
section of Idaho county. At best it
would but be convenience to the
mail contractors and to the post
master at Lewiston. Mr.. Kress, how
ever, states that he does not sane
ton the proposed change, and that
it would not receive his recommen-
dation. The Idaho county citizens
should make an expression to the
department in this matter which
would meet with the earnest endorse
ment Of the Lewiston people.
Lewiston Tribune.