The morning times., 1897-02-21
5EJEIlIEIlgI9 llg1g1Qlla@
THE WOrIAN OF FASHION i
Suggested Making
ingOn' Birthday Function.
$500. g.Elag@E1gU1gG

while the order OF mlhonaires has
been disporting itself in the garb OF six
teenth century bloods at The various costume
parties that have been epidemic for the
last three weeks, a few patriotic old
families among the Sons and Daughters OF
the Revolution, mindful of the time OF year
and af the tribute due the father of our
country, have planned some Colonial tea
parties Cor Nashington's birthday. 1t
VIII not he attempted 10 carry them ont
an correct detail, except for the charming
Martha Washington costumes worn by the
hostess ana her assistants and the silver
tray with its handles at each end.
Guests viii not be expected TO come in
costume, nor VIII they be- received in the
s.iff ana pompouS style which prevailed
at the White House during the regime
OF our illustriouS first President. The
father OF his country, who breakfasted in
humble fashion upon coffee, sliced tongue
and day toast, received his guests with
hands dasped behind him, merely bowling
To them as they made their own Ubeisance
and thcn passed on in solemn pageant.
His lady stood beside nIm, her gloved
hands Testing lightly at her side, ready
10 brush aside her pettiCoat as she Cour-
tested low 10 each newly presented guest.
1his was in the days wien the Senators
Of the nation were losing their sleep o
nights over the burning question as to
whether the President of the United States
should be spoken Of rs His Serene High
neSs'' or His Patriotic Majesty" and
when honest George himself profeSSed n
desire 10 be known as His High Might
inesS. Mrs. Washington wore a cap with
a frll around it, and over her plainly made
gown she wore sort OF fichu crossed
at the throat in very small Y. II was
fiChuthatmighthay gone under the name
OF Marie Antonettc if il had been pret-
tier. or if there had been more oft The
sleeves only reached to the elbow with
d f!ounCe at the botuom. That is. the first
lady of the land sometimes wore this
costume. though it is 10 be presumed she
had more than one dress.
Mrs John Adams the first lady to
preside in the White House is said to
have dressed rather more in keeping
with her station than her Immediate
predecessor. but as il is Il Martha Wash
in-ton tea we are to have we must at
least emulate the simplicity Of her dress,
if not the formality OF her hospitality,
IN doing honor to her memory.
The young ladies who assist the hostess
VIII be dressed in a some what earlier Co
lonial style, with Vatican pleat starting
at the back Of the neck and hanging loose
to the bottom of the skirt. This style is
extremely becoming TO very young women.
The more elegant dresses are made of the
brocaded silk with large flowers OF which
there is so much on the market nova
Ef.l g L will
use creton or Dolly Warden goods. The
sleeves are tight and have lace Hounces
falling over the wrists.
The modern street dresses worn by the
guests viii contrast singulariy with these
gowns that were in the height Of fashion
something over a hundred years ago, and
though the old fashioned Costumes look
rather quaint, it must be admitted that
from our point OF view we have con-
sidcrably improved upon the old days in
matters Of dress. Take, for instance, the
picture OF a costume which one of the
guests is going to wear. Il is elaborate
enough for a wedding, but it is not con-
SideTed too fancy to do honor 10 Wash
ington's birthday. II is 4 combination Of
green taffetas with cream colored lace.
The back Of the skirt iS ACCORDION pleated
silk The front is panel of embroidered
trimming tight fitting in the bodice, and
passing under velvet band at the waist
into a skirt panel The panel IS hordered
on the left with a cascade OF plcated silk
LaceStarlingin a rusettc at the right shout
der is drapCd across the front Of the bodice
to the left side just above the waist, where
1t is caught with another rosette. The
sleeves are moderately small and flare
slightly at the hand into a sort Of cuff.
Tho Tat. which is toque-Shaped. is trimmed
with flowers, foliage and aigrettes with "A
knot of green velvet to bring it into
harmony with the dress In spite Of the
eIaborateueSs Of the costume just described,
the formality Of the .accasion Is to bc far
from opprc SSive. as may be Surnised from
Jila fac thar one Of the young ladies in
vircd is going skating afterwards because
she Is a college girl that has holiday.
and she viii wAarthe same c3sturne on both
occasions II is a brown cloth trimmed
with mink fur which runs down the left
side Of the skirt and round the bottom.
The Jacket, which has a high collar edged
with fur. faStens on the left side with -four
mink heads and has a band of fur around
the bottom fur muff With lace flounces
at each end. and round hat trimmed with
velvet and wings, complete very stylish
costume.
I dress at which the real Martha Wash
iICtpn would have heldup her hands inholy
horror because Of its mannish cut. is made
OF blue cloth and trimmed with braid in a