Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1897-08-15
TIE FIRST HATS
OF AUTUMN.
They Will Be GainsborOughS PrOfuSely
Trimmed
With Plumes Long and Dropping.
Four Seasons in Millinery--S Spring,
Summer, Autumn and Winter
with Fall and easter" Added.
Waists to Wear With Hats.
Copyright 1897, by Ryman's Interview
Syndicate.)
Paris, August 8

fdIlS, august D
The first hats of autumn are in the
windows. By autumn is not meant
fall, when the leaves drop from the
trees, but the beween season when
summer hats are too light and too fad
ed, and the feminine soul longss for
something new.
The first hats Of autumn will be dis
tinctly Gainsborough. The tidings of
the lost Gainsborough have awakened
interest in this ever popular style, and
the hats ere turning Gainsborough-
fancy the prices attached TO them, for
Gainsboroughs are never very cheap.
The most decidedly picturesque Of
them all is the Essex Gainsborough,
which has little English walking hat
crown, with a broad sweeping brim,
upturned at one side and slightly curl
ing at the other. This hat is velvet
or fine straw one, absolutely covered
with white plumes. Only this and
nothing more!
Another Gainsborough turns up in
the back. il is white with load of
black plumes that curl over the tenn
A modified Gainsborough is up-tilted
ct the back and curling in front. The
sides are broad and the trimming con-
sists of ribbon with a few feathers to
give softness to the top, back and
sides.
WIDOW GAINSBOROUGH."
A pretty little hat that is called the
Widow Gainsborough" has a brim
slashed in front into which lace and
flowers are set. This gives an admira-
BILE opportunity for chiffon. The top is
trimmed with soft flowers, delicate
tulle and single black ostrich feather
that gives the note of black. The hat
is turned up at the back, and under the
rear of the brim is set lace and flow
ers, or tulle rosettes.
The waists that are to be worn with
these hats are called Jackets" if they
have the slightest approach to the bo-
lero effect. Or if the outside can be
slipped off. Most of the waists have
removable yokes that look and act as
little capes.
One of these consists of three ruffles
falling to the waist line. They are of
embroidered silk with passementerie
at one side. There are hooks at the
left side that unfasten.
Another has deep yoke of embroid-
cry with a ruff below it, bordered by
band of passementerie. The sleeves
and vest are Of taffeta. One of the new
waists is the butterfly, so called from
black bow set upon the side with
wings the shape of butterfly. The
waist is of white silk set in.
A delightful waist, also to be worn
with the Gainsboroughs, is of dotted
India sjIk with uoN+ 80 ~~iid ~o~o"
Girdles will be much worn, and they
will be made of silk of all colors.
There are so many styles Of jackets
to choose from this season. The bole-
70 is trimmed in such divers ways as
to insure it against becoming monoto-
nous while its extraordinary popularity
lasts.
The little sack coat is not as popular
as it has been. The jacket with the
straight fly front that fits close into the
figure at the back is the smart jacket
of the moment, especially for cloth
gowns designed for travelling or shop
ping. or outing gowns that are to be
worn with shirt waists.
Dressy gowns and even evening
gowns are made so often with boleros.
or the trimming is put on the gown TO
give the effect of bolero jacket.
The extra dressy little jackets that
are to be slipped on over a gown to add
an air of festivity are exhibited in the
most astonishing numbers at the
shops.
The black grenadine gowns that are
so popular now lend themselves so
prettily to this new plan of Frightening
up with bright silk Jackets.
HALF JACKETS.
One of the smartest of these little
Jackets is made of white taffeta. The
taffeta forms narrow bias folds that
cover the pale heliotrope satin lining
in perpendicular strips. The jacket
does not fit into the curves of the fig
ure, but flies loose and fastens to the
left side where there is a cascade Of
white mousseline de sole. There are
no sleeves to this jacket, but broad