The Republican journal., 1897-10-14

500 feet long by 40 wide, while graceful
shafts of quibrahacha, (the hardest wood
in the world, which abounds in the for
ests OF Central America, the name itself
signifying the Breaker" branching off
from the arches, support the roof These
lofty pillars are painted white like the
walls, with creamy veins running through
them; but the arches in which they termi-
nate, as well as the steeply slanting inner
roof, are darkly colored in arabesque,
producing singular effect Handsome
chandeliers are suspended from the cell
ing by chains of FURNISHED metal, and
several crimson banners, gold-lettered in
Spanish text, float between them. Stretch
ing across the nave above the high altar
rises the organ gallery, supported by
slender columns painted in imitation OF
Sienna marble, delicate screen of white
painted lattice work concealing choir and
organst. The floor is of light colored
tiles, laid in patterns the side aisles are
decorated with huge paintings of g the
stages of Christi and inside the altar
railing, amid CLEANS of white and gold,
are chairs of state for the President and
Bishop. Military mass ona Sunday mo m
ing in this cathedral is an occasion of
picturesqueness. All the garrison are
obliged to attend in full force and clean
apparel.
First come the band, 40 instrumental
lists, in blue coats and red trousers, and
are stationed in the chancel to accompany
the service with martial music. Then
tramp, tramp come the soldiers in blue,
with glittering bayonents, and a still more
imposing array of officers in elaborate
uniforms. They stand throughout the
service, an officer at the head of each
detachment, and the lines of motionless
bayOnents seem to culver like streaks of
light in the reflected blaze of chandeliers
and innumerable candles. few ma
hogany benches at O1e side accommodate
/ the aIistOcracy- men in English made
suits of dark cloth and bonnetless women
in many-hued skirts and black mantillas:
but the bare-headed, bare footed masses,
the women in petticoats and chemises, the
men ia white cotton drawers and calico
shirts, kueel on the floor, as everywhere
else in the churches of Spanish America.
ton from some grand opera-Il Trova-
tore, Lucia, Les Huguenots; tine organ
alternately threatens and cajoles; the
priests intone, the people respond Then
the Host is elevated, and the whole vast
building shakes with pealine trumpets
and the ring of saluting arms while Won
stand spell bound entlanced When all
is over the military depart to tie tap of
the drum and march gaily down the street
to the strains of the Barber of Seville or
La File de Madame Angot; the aristo-
Gratis remain upon their benches until the
bare footed populace has shuf1led out;
and presently the great sanctuary is de-
serted, except for here and there kneel-
ing woman whispering into confessional
window, OF some grief stricken soul, upon
whom bereavement has lately laid a heavy
hand, PROSTATE before the plying mother
of sorrows.
In front and on both sides of the
cathedral are pretty gardens. Back of
one of these gardens stands the sacristy,
and behind another, the handsome two
story dwelling of the Bishop. On Sunday
! in San Jose the banks and government
offices are closed, but most of the shop,
remain open, and the afternoons and
evenings are given up to the paseo, balls
and other diversions. There are several
smaller churches-Dolores, La Carmen,
Soledad, Mercedes and others, but they
are all shabby, sorrowful, humble look
ing structures, like the penitentes of arch
itecture, walls of adobe, roofs of rough
red tiles, floors of hardened clay and
skeleton belfries suggesting gibbets. A
notable exception is the Protestant place
of worship-a beautiful little Gothic
chapel set in tree shaded garden over
flowing with rose bushes constantly in
bloom. With eternal blue above and the
fragrant breath of eternal summer blow
ing softly through the open windows, it is
the most restfui spot ever found by the
wearied traveller in strange lands.
One hot Sunday morning, not long ago,
| went to the church of La Carmen. No
benches are provided therein for lazy
worshippers, but rich and poor, saints
and sinners, kneel upon the floor together.
Having gone early, / soon found myself
in the thick of the crowd, sandwiched
between the Scylla and Charybdes of a
case of mouldy bones on one side and the
n-infected locks of an odoriferous
Indian on the other. The heat was in
tense; but the strange scene, the earnest
devotion of the worshippers, and the
wierd music of the flute, cornet and some
reed instrument, more than made up for
all discomforts. On table near the
door, rosaries, prayer books and the
usual relics were offered for sale, Among
the latter, long bits of ribbon of gorgeous
hueS each warranted TO he the ayaot