The herald., 1897-08-01
WOMAN Of FASHION.
One Popular Place Of Amuse-
ment Where She Dresses
for Comfort.
THREE TYPES OF GARDEN GIRLS
Some Dainty Summer Gowns That
Are Worn From Nearby
Watering Places.

One is puzzled to decide which of the
fair frequenters of the city roof garden
to choose as a type. The flock of girls
is about evenly divided into three class
es: those who come in shirt waists and
sailor hats, those who pose in picture
hats and warm looking, conventional
dresses, and those who wear their thin
summer clothes with leghorn hats and
flower trimmings. Doubtless the choice
lies between the girl of the sailor hat
and the cool looking fairy of the thin
dress. Nowhere else is so much freedom
permitted in the matter Of apparel-a
condition of things which is without
doubt due to the fact that the place Is
managed entirely in the interests of
those men whose families have sought
cool places in the country, leaving them
to sizzle in the hot city. These men,
not having their wives to look after
them, dress as they please, casting con-
ventionality to the winds and seeking
mere personal comfort and amusement.
Most of the men wear suits in which
they have been transacting business all
day. few even wear their bicycle
suits. Then there are the "chappies"
that come down from Newport in white
duck trousers and blue serge coats with
golf stockings that were Enthusiastically
purchased at the womans counter. For.
though they don't exactly like to have
it known, these same chappies are get
ting even for past incursions on their
stock of neckties and scarfpins by pur-
Joining their sisters hose. The raison
d'etre is their superior thinness and the
modus operandi is this: after having
sequestrated the hose the thieving ras-
cal ships off the feet and puts on the
tops over his thin socks One of the
most attractive youths at the most pop
ular garden the other night was hailed
with delight by some of his pals as
Bert, old boy" from New Bedford, He
wore white duck trousers tucked under
golf stockings at the knees. The stock
ings were black, with red plaid tops
One Of the most noticeable accessories
about his costume was the miniature
scarf pin that held his white piaue
scarf in place. The face in the minia-
ture was evidently that of his sweet
heart or of his newly welded wife, and
it was very pretty. At any rate, his
friends made it interesting to the folks
at the surrounding tables by their anx-
ious inquiries after her" health. Sew
eral of the boys wore those narrow
brimmed, coarse straw hats which are
Yards Bay.
With so much freedom of dress
among the men it is not surprising that
young women follow their example, and
aim at convenience and comfort by
the same methods The pretty type
writer slipping lemonade with her elder
ly escort may very possibly have come
directly from the office without any
alteration of her business costume. At
any rate she wears a striped shirt
waist with crash skirt, and Panama
sailor trimmed simply with a wreath of
flowers.
Shirtwaists and crash skirts have
come to be the business woman's sum-
mer uniform just as the jacket suit of
serge is worn in winter. White waists
troop along Broadway of a morning in
numbers sufficient to produce laun-
dry trust If some man were found with
the enterprise to establish one. They
are worn with skirts of crash-which is
winter and prettier than linen-and
white belts. The whole combination
with a white sailor hat has nice cool
effect that is good to look upon these
midsummer days of ninety in the
shade. Never was white so gener-
ally seen on the city streets as it has
De6I lOE lIle past lew Wceho. DGdl6rS III
shirt waists say there is more call for
white than any other kind. White ba-
tiste is the most common, but white or
candle is rather prettier and, Of course,
thinner. Instead of being made in reg
ular shirt waist style, however,it is bet
ter to make thin waists open in the back
with little fullness just at the edges to
prevent them from gaping. 1t can then
be fastened at the neck and waist with
out any hooks or buttons in between.
The front should be "pouched" is,
it should be cut longer than tight fit
ting waist and then gathered in at the
belt. 1t is very popular device to run
three or four lace-edged ruff1es around
the blouse, and as it is a trimming very
easily manipulated 1t is worth trying
by the amateur. The ruffles are pret-
tiest when cut bias, and may be sew
ed all around the bodice or merely on
the front For the neck, folded rib
bon stock is sufficient. The sleeves may
be made to fit tight and stop at the ell
bow, with puffs and bands of narrow
insertion alternating. The easiest sleeve
to make however, is the mutton Leg"
which reaches the wrist where it is
finished with several bands of lace in
sertion put on straight or bias to suit
kind usually finishes the sleeve at the
shoulder, but it may be made very mar
row if desired.
Several of the roof garden girls who
come in their summer dresses to sin
lemonade while the tumbler balances
himself in impossible positions and his
appendaged prototype stands on his
head or rides his long-eared charger
the educated donkey-in obedience to
his keepers commands-several of these
are themselves living results of train
ing more strict and coercive than any
which has ever been applied to the man
or the monkey who seem to do such
marvellous things with SO great ease
1t is quite as wonderful to observe how
a woman of small cash will evolve some-
thing out OF nothing and actually con-
trive to look pretty In II. Such women