New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-02-14
PARIS AND THE DRESSMAKER
SUGGESTIONS WORTH NOTING BY THE
AMERICAN BUYER
AMUSING; INCIDENTS IN SHOPPING soNrE WITH
PLEASANT AND SOME WITH IN

VIC shall see any elaborate simplicity" this season
or simplicity OF any kind--nothins but genera
business" and frivolity from the top Of ounchy
neck ruche 10 the hem of a much rufied sKr''
Stately bellies and Gibson girls" have had 'heH
day at least for time, wouli seem to say the
first instalment OF spring models which you kno"
always designed for the American Market
This would imply that we know what is 10 De worn
in America before have any reason FOR olscoV-
sring what the Parisienne is going 10 adopt WHICH
is largely true although the couturiere is not the
sole autocrat IN the matter. Between her ana the
defined modes of the spring stands the buyer; gen
orally man or woman OF such long experience
that one wonders where his apprenticeship was
passed and perhaps. after all, successfui 'ouyefs
are born. made. and know instincuvely what
their feminine public will choose. like a success1ui
manager OF foreign stars and music hall noveiues.
The buyer is the only person before whom the
Paris couturiere crnges: while she may he naughty
10 a countess and snub millionaire, she is ANA
hility itself 10 the breezy person who comes 10
Paris twice year. and perhaps then only carries
of two or three models from each important house
THE PRIVATE DREssMAKEP.
But the small private dressmaker to whom the
annual Paris visit and the purchasing or nail
dozen models at eXorbitant price Uo which duty
must be added does not have so easy time
amcnS her French confreres. To be sure, hotel
lists are scanned even by tho !arges, houses for
even this small fish and she is waited upon and
invited most irnpressvely TO survey their models
But woe unto Ter II shs leaves without purchas-
ing for at s rank dishonesty. they intimate, ITO
see Al their latest models and no. buy even one
and when her order is finally reluctantly given
they are prone 10 take any too much pains
with it, This fac: explains their eagerneSs 10 oe
the first with newcomer, for they know that ac-
Cordng business methods here. her lists or plr-
ohases will be exhausted during her first few visits
With experience she learns the better way when
applies quite strongly to private buyers that
come over intending TO purchase three or nan a
dozen gowns for their use. This Is 10 hrmIY
say she IS to spend day looking about, ana
under no conditions will give order until she
has made her rounds II they accept her cond-
lions they can only press her to purchase, buy IL
IS unwsc 20 break the rule for. If she leaves even
one order assistant or model Is sure 10 Tell j
another in a rival house. which. in consequence
feels agcreved. not to say cheated II is the pest
rule for any doing any extensive shopping al
Paris to say at tho start-out that they Will not huy
until d, second visit II Is quite true that some
houses will no. show things under these conditions
hut there are Others that wiz and, as there Is 10
such thing picking up bargains IN the III"
season the gown hat. which is. after all, only a
model. is always there TO be duphcated inc heN'
day.
Much the Same system exists In the smaller shops
the " orst examples IN this line having the aston
ishinc .fnpldence TO hang out a sign OF 'ehtree
lbr.." TO look I'm the windows generally means
that ,hc shopkceper or assistant comes out ana
,,vite- one 10 enter and 10 do 30 is 10 fall into
irap as ala q gentleman passing through PARIS
lst summer Alter an invitation 10 look over
lot OF ola books and engravings on leaving he was
told by ;he keeper that If he didn: purchase ne
rust pay FOR his time Not knowing the customs
,ba 1ansuace nor even the money very WELL this
s,reyd. acute American business man actually gave
40 = gold piece-si-to CO. away without trouble.
AMUSING INCIDENTS.
4 similar incident. with a peasanter ending, &C.
CURED 70 an American resident in Paris, who en-
,oroo 2 large shop on the Boulevard and simply
asked ,or a certain style OF hat. They hadn't what
he asked for and knew II, but insisted Oh showing
other things When he finally nAnaged to get
away the commits got very angry ana said; "Ihat
nav be American. but in France YOU can't take
n mans time and leave without buying something.
The man got in return for rudeness very en-
rhatic opinion CT himself and his methods. TINS
Kind Of bullying is by no means an exception. and
French shopkeepers do not seem TO improve In this
respect. II it is unpleasant for customer now ue-
grading for the other party, for imagine an Amer
lean or London merchant countenancng such
Frglish girls brought over as interpreters have
Iod me that this forcing of purchases upon clehlS
was most difficult and Illuminating thlilg lOI tHein
10 learn. but that they were loudly banned II a
customer escaped them 1t nigh, be aqded N tns
connection that the Louvre ana Bon M-Ic!le nav
iha methods Of our shops Everything - pIalh.f
marked. has price and there is noErgns 10
buy. ,., -. 81, hr,noboe
a. English firms are also bameess tut with hardy
an exception the French places are sinners IN
exercise of viii power 10 shop 10 advantage. FOR
ei.;neIs have been known 10 admit mat, diter a.
experience or Two, they qnite ENJOY te IN
deed IL would seem 50 10 near some Wcll-hiioMIl
erande dame chatting and famiharly oeatlng down
her Paris dressmaker.