Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-03-18
NEW THINGS TO WEAR
A DECIDED MOVEMENT TOWARD
TRIMMED AND DRAPED SKIRTS.
Accordion Plating Is Again Popular.
Handsome Tea Gowns-Choice Black
Goods Hammock and Cable Cords and
why They Are Popular.

Accordion Plating Is Again Popular.
Handsome Tea Gowns-Choice Black
Goods-Hammock and Cable Cords and
why They Are Popular.
copyright, 1897. by the Author.l
There is certainly a decided movement
toward trimmed and draped skirts
Flounces of many widths and varieties
are seen, even those reaching up to the
knees. Some Of these are set upon mar.
row and clese upper skirt, while others
are made in such q way as to suggest
overskirts and even triple skirts. Cere-
monious gowns often have the front and
two side breadths set with three deep
flcunces, while the rest of the skirt lies
in heavy folds. Dancing and other even
ing gowns for young ladies frequently
have narrow fiounces reaching quite to
the waist and usually made of thin ma
terial, which is accordion plated. In
deed it is quite remarkable how much
accordion plating is seen just now. Ita
use is not confined to thin goods, for the
mohair, siciliennes and brilliantines
and several stiff poplins are plated SO.
But the draped skirt is the newest
thing, There must of necessity be
real or simulated underskirt for these,
as the gathering of the skirt at the
hips leaves a part of the underslzirt
exposed In one instance the front
breadth was slashed at the left side and
"pinched up at the waist line in
manner which allowed rich folds to
form all across the front in diagonal
line. Beneath this was a breadth of
pearl gray bengaline. The gown was of
the rich new cecilia cloth in dull,
smoky gray. Where the edge Of the
draped skira drew across 4 narrow plait-
ed ruffie of the bengaline cut lengthwise
was sewed,
This Is only one Of many fanciful
ways Of draping the skirts. Others have
little puffed pannier bunohes all along
each hip, but none has any draping in
the back. The full fluted effects hold
sway In that respect. Most of these
plaits fall naturally from the gathers at
the top, but some are made over queer,
round contrivances intended to hold
them in regular funnel shape. Only
three of these can be applied ON any
dreas skirt, and the wearer must stand
up or kneel down while wearing one. It
Is impossible to sit down without de-
stroying the form Of the folds
But all gowns are not so silly. Some
of them are marked by an unusual de-
gree Of quiet elegance and common
sense. I saw two dresses just finished
for two young daughters of one Of our
millionaires. One was of the new bur-
lap canvas cloth in fax color. The
meshes were very open, allowing the silk
lining to show dimly through. This was
Of the new ruddy red. The skirt was en-
tirely simple and bad seven breadths.
The waist was q plain, round French
style gathered to q belt A thick ribbed
gray six belt was worn with it. There
were dropping revers, outlining vest
of pearl gray surah with red dots. This
vest closed in front inyisibly, and there
were two sharp revers and turn
down collar; also plain cuffs of the silk
over stiff buclran. The sleeves were
slightly puffed gigots. roomy enough
for comfort and snug enough for style.
1t was a very pleasing gown.
The other was of cream white cheviot
fine and closely woven. The skirt had
four rows of brown and gold soutache
around the bottom, crossing in a basket
weave, with loops in front. The same
woven design was wrought ON the sleeves
and on the collar, as well as ON the
short Eton jacket. There was blouse
vest Of pale straw colored moire with
crushed corselet of the same moire This
was intended for handsome reception
dress, and it is worthy of the intention
During Lent the tea gown is a neces-
Eity, and we find a number Of novel
ideas for these graceful garments. Gem
orally speaking, the tea gowns of this
season are not SO big and unwieldy as
they have been. Nor are they quite so
perishable in material. One very elegant
and novel tea gown was of the rich di-
recteur green, In soft velvety cashmere.
The front Of the gown was laid in a
double box plait from top to bottom,
forming blouselike loop at the waist.
AucIo was d uouDle Wdtttdu pldit III tno
back. The waist was very odd. 1t was
slashed and all the open spaces were
filed in with violet silk. There was a
stiffish band around the sleeves, which
cut them into two puffs, and this was
laced with black silk cord, and SO were
the two slashes across the bust. The dog
collar was of violet silk, with double
bows in the back. The belt was of very
rich violet satin ribbon and passed under