The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-01-16


it was held that simplicity should rule
the attire of all young girls. SO they did
not feel abasIied in the fresh. sheer
white 1ndia-nastin gowns, relieved with
broad sashes, which We're their only
evening wear. These were made with
low, sauafe-cut necks and fall sleeves
gathered into a pun a little above the
elbow.
The so-called Empire styles were then
prevalent, and probably in an e~xaggerat-
ca fSfm, as Is apt to be Che case when
fashions have to be copied at a distance
not only of thousands OF miles but also
OF a year or more of time. The skirts
were short. showing not only the thin
slipper but the clicked silk stockings well
above the ankle ana were so very scant
that II required skffl to dance in them
without rendilg the slight fabric. Mel
ther OF the sisters had a silk dress.
Gowns Of that material were hardly con-
I sidered suitable for unmarried women UNI
der Is years of age.
Gowns of pretty Aewefed chfntz were
worn at home, except In extremely cold
weather, when a heavy but soft mate
| rial known as STUFF was permitted. For
~ FAA-6F ~ WeLIAAAt6 SnSAt NcfslCE lou q
! gown Of dark crimson broadcloth. These
| were made with close sleeves coming a
[ little below the elbow, where, as well
as around h neck. and the bottom of
the skirt, was an edging Of swans down,
| changed later in the season for d border
of marten fur. Long pelisses of crimson
| efofhs lined and trimmed with the Tnarten
Fun. ana the great nauffs and tippets Of
the same were worn in all suitable
| weather. The crimson velvet bonnets
were large and S6oop-ffkN things, adorn-
ed WITH an abundance of white ostrich
| pllmes, but not by any means as exags
| gerated in size as those worn d few years
| later. SIS.
| Shifred~ breadths and flat or box pleats
have in a great degree replaced the godet
effects at the back of dress skirts. In
| many instances Brafding or a pretty vIie
| passementerie Stimulating Braiding is ear
/ ried from the skirt-hem upwards, not
/ only on the front and sides, but fire.
| quently on new French gowns, at the
back, tapertng as it goes. In nearly ev-
cry case, notwithstanding all we hear of
the absence OF stiff interfinings, the back
anu oAdCS O1 tICoC mi II 4 LilOt oo61lty
well set out from the figure. and not a
few of the gowns are SO arranged thai
French dressmakers call them standing
gowns" and certainly some Of the mod
erateIy spreading, elaborately rimmed
models would not be improved by a sit
ting position of its wearer. There are
very many women who never wear their
walking costumes in the house any more
than they would don their robes of cere-
mony for the promenade wise rule
but a gown in which one cannot comforts
ably sit is rather a trial, and the knowi-
edge that the appearances of ones dress
is spelled by this decidedly restful posi-
ton is disagreeable to think of, let alone
endure.
IN Of the amusing qualities belonging
to fair, ffan wernanksnd Is her rather
senseIess tendency to make herself per
feetIy miserable over very small matters.
This of course, IS nothing new.
Men have laughed about It since the
world began. A woman confessed to me
recently that nothing enraged her SO
much as the rustic of another and more
fortunate creatures silk-lined gown.
and the Slam of a door of a private coupe
stirred every rebeMlous, envious feeling in
her nature. She grew positively anarchi-
cal Inc rampant before she finished. The
same woman has the darkest and deepest
Of blues whenever a new gown or a hat
comes aie1he and ddsappoints her IN its
At or style.
She IS d~ncofeofable for a few days over
this trifing trial. A new gown is quite
a thing with her. and consequently She
raises her expectations to a high pitch
only to have them dashed into the depths
by the natural failings of the a1f-too-nu-
man dressmaker.
Yet. In spite of all this, she is d most
adorable woman, who in time of any real
trouble bears it like d heroine.
The Spanish f1ounce. as already noted
in The Record is most becoming to
tail, slender women. A pretty way to ar
range n is to have one about 20 inches
wide beginning at the waist line on the
light SIDE n gather the top edge into a
Knot: let this fulness fall straight down
the width of the ruffle and then continue
the ruffle diagonally on around toward
the back, run ling the other end far
enough across the front to go under the
bias side and make d finish.
49,
For keeping BURNS and scalds from bis.
terfng take common baking soda and
make into a paste with vaseline or any
unsalted grease and spread thickly upon
the burn. Bandage carefully and let it
remain for three or four days. If this
is prepared and put on Immediately there
will be very little pain from the burn,
and it will be found when the bandage
is removed that there will be very little
blistefed surface to heal.
An effective new lunch cloth is made Of
rose-colored liner with a cluster of white
Joined to it in an uneven scallop, over
which are embroidered large roses worked
solidly in five or six shades of rose color
with effectively shaded leaves and tangled
stems. The cloth is edged with a heavy
fall Of linen lace in rose pattern
Brocades and the brooches are in style
just now, and are well liked because they
bring out fully the exquisite fancies of
the style Louis XIV, which has become
popular again. The t~affetas, printed with
flowers, is stiIl utilized. to less extent,
however. than last year. These lowers
are now embroidered and studded WITH
spangles and strass.