The times., 1897-09-19
BRIDES OF '97.

Juliet advances toward their sumner lovers
"a charge which was laid at the door Of
more than one bride or 1896, when un
KIND folk insinuated that the October wed
dinrs OF last year were the product Of leap
wear proposals. in which the woman in the
case, made desperate at the prospect Of
eight years before another leap year. took
matters into her own hand ana secured her
Inan while yet there was time. This year,
however, there is no room TO suppose that
the progress Of the various courtships dir
fers Ia any respect from the oldfashioned
way of doing things.
Indeed. all the new fashions pertaining
10 weddings arc decidedly old, paradox
cal though it may SEEM Wedding invita-
tious arc w0rded exactly as they wee two
years ago, and as for dress, styles have
gone sack to the time Of the Queens mar
rIage in honor OF her jubilee. Americans
should not object 10 British influence IN
this instance, where so remote a cause
rs the wax between China and Japan set
every one to giving japanese teas and Nj
kado parties. For another instance of the
influence Of current events upon matters of
dress. one has bul to visit the furrier and
see how he is hugging himself over the
KIondike exodus as he displays his wares
in the windows with prouigious copy
OF some Alaskan enthusiast, who talks OF
glaciers and snow mountains 20 feelingly
that one shivers ia mild September, and
decides that it's about time to purchase
that winter caIIarette-
In view OF The foregoing facts il is
evident that now is tie time to get out
grandmother wedding finery and See
il there is anything in the collection which
can be pressed into service for the some
thing old IN tie familiar couplet-
Combinations of several different kinds
Of material are allowable in wedding
gowns to greater degree than for years
before. Fer instance, the bridal gown
which appears ia the accompanying Illus
tration has two materials in its composition.
exclusive of the taffeta silk Innings. The
plested petticoat which forms ,he front
Of the skirt is made of white bengaline,
as is alsp the pointed waist with its lace
rufGe from waist TO shoulder The collar
which is made OF white mousSeline, with
q frill OF lace overhanging, gives soft
ening effect about the face which every
tride who wants TO outshine her brides
maid should strive for. The sleeves also
are made Of mousseline in the wrnkled
mouseQuetaire fashion. and are finished
at tie shoulder with draped heading of
white bengaIine The train is made of an
entirely different material, ana is stripe
of satin and hrocade which requires nine
yards Of material. IL has a lace ruffle
running around It's entire edge and form
g.ll s1aaf faI
petticoat front The suggestion for stiff
fleming trains and giving them body was
given me by an experienced modiste.
10 ADDITION to the white haircloth, which
is laid between the brocade and the silk
lining from the end to the place where it
joins the bottom Of the skirt proper, an
terlIniug of outing cloth extends through
out the train. Oc course. If one happens 20
have old lace in ones family chest here
is an excellent opportunity TO give it an
airing la the shape of a Tuffle around ones
train. or merely around the yoke If the sup
ply is hini.Jd.
White failc is a favorite material fo-
wedding gowns, but the very west tring,
and the most 10 be desired on account Of
its weight and voluminousness is white
moire pGpln. TIE latter material is tw IN
ty-two inches wide and varies from S1.50
70 81 per yard. From fifteen to twenty
five yards are required according TO rhesize
OF the train.
Wedding gloves are suede, and mousque-
Uaire ~ cut where elbow sleeves are worn
Some Of the dainuest things in bridal
underwear are The Marguerite petit
coats in various dainty -colored silks.
Pink six ones nave strips Of cream lace in
serti0n running across the cute little waist.
Pale blue ones are trimmed with ivory
white H0niton OF the very richest descrip
tion. A " lite silk one has very little trim
ming on the waist, but is hemstitched to
the rand which forms the dividing line be-
tween The waist and skirt Fine null
skirts trimmed with lace and bands Of in
sertion are laid in the finest OF pIeats, an
arrangement wich is very dainty and n1fry
when cone ia null.
Bridesmaids gowns are dainty andfluffy
as usual and give the touch OF color which
is necessarily absent from the costume Of
the bride Heliotropc and straw color is
one OF the newest combina tons. 4 filrny
yellow rauze with hcliotrope figure is be-
ing prepared for a swell October wedding
IL has "a sUrpiice waist whose sides do not
match; for 9ne, the right, il shirred, and
edged with wide pleated ruffle' and the
other simpl laid in folds with a shorter
ruffle running over the shoulder.
Tie SFplice crosses in such a way as
10 form a small at the neck, which is
left open-a decided change 9f fashion
ir q gown which is worn with hat.
Around tie waist is a broad sa sh OF hello
trope silk which is trimmed at the ends
with two wide, pleated and lace edged
rufaes headed with three rows OF shir
ring. There are also two ruffles around
the bottom OF the skirt. This bridesmaids 5
hat wi. have the Victorian flare away
from the face and VIII be trimmed with
gorgeous stra W colOred feathers and a
heli0Wope bow just over the hair and
underneath the brim. Heliotrope satin
shoes complete the costume.
Fox the brides going away gown moth
lug is pre-iier OF more appropriate than
dove gray. A suit which has the new
Combination Of gray and pale yellow Is
made with Jacket that suggests a man g
evening dress coat.
In front It looks like a close fitting Eton
and has long iapels reaching TO the collar
but It is cut ont with al upward curve
at the side, and ends in long, plain coat
tails in tie back. Tie straw color comes in
in The soft, blouse front, which is trimmed
with d succession OF small black velvet
bows set together as close as buttons and
extending from the neck to the waist
Buckles are in their glory. Never Were
finer ones on the market. Never were
dresses so completely trimmed with them