The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-05-30
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE SUMNER FASHIONS IN GOWNS
OFFER INFINITE VARIETY.
A WOmnn's Curious Idea of Economy
The Secret of Strawberry short
cake-CIub Life in London.

Some of the new dress skirts have a verti-
cal or otherwise circular trimming carried
from the waist downward to the depth of
half yard or so, says a writer in the New
York Post. Many women will be glad of
this fashion, for a perfect figure below the
waist line is rare, and it is always the
study of the modiste to rectify this trouble
and the severe uncompromising skirt that
has SO long prevailed gave the wearer no
chance of improving upon too great slen-
derness nor of moderating the redundancy
of the figure by judicious trimming. For
the first named defect circular decorations
are carried quite around the figure about
the hips, and for the second vertical garni-
lures of unequal length and slightly radiat-
ing as they descend greatly modify the
effect of overload hips
The checked brocaded striped and barred
silk and wool materials imported this sea-
son are suitable for any ordinary occasion
and if tailor made and stylishly trimmed
they form elegant church, visiting and car
riage costumes. Some of the mohair ST.
ciliennes are likewise as handsome in APP
pearance as a rich silk and the white and
cream patterns for evening, bridesmaids
and graduation dresses are as elegantly
decorated and delicately silk lined as white
satin or taffeta silk.
The woman who wishes to look her best
must never blindly follow any and every
new caprice of fashion, but aim to adapt
fashion to her own special needs. Take,
for instance, the very large ruches and col
larettes now so popular Very many women
purchase these full frily neck accessories
with no thought beyond selecting the
shapes which please their fancy. They put
the huge airy yokes about their necks, and
in not a few cases they have a bisonlike
appearance. AS a rule the all-round col
larettes are not so becoming to most figures
as the pompadour style or, better still, the
shape cut in deep points one on either
shoulder the other two three on the
front and back, respectively. Some of the
latest collarettes are much elongated not
ward forming q sort of border to the wide
box peat which still distinguishes the front
of many fancy waists this season. 49,, 20
BerthaS and Marie AntOlnette menus OF
silk muslin with pleated frills OF the same
one falling partly over the other are al
ways useful in imparting a fresh. dainty
effect to a gown at small expense. Net
is easy of adjustment, and may be edged
with narrow lace. Book muslin is too why
to look easy and graceful but india null
Grapes we'll and is not costly, as 1t is very
wide, requiring but few yards Tor the
entire toilet, tichu included. Very hne
dotted Swiss muslin of excellent quality
can be purchased for 10 cents a yard, and
fourteen yards will make a cool and pretty
toilet, this quantity being quite suticient to
make fiounceS and frillS for both gown
and bertha. The Marie AntOinette fchu Is
most favored, but all styles need careful
adjustment and the manner of arrange
ment differs according to the form of the
wearer or should do so. When the waist
is short the fichu ends should come down
we'll below the waist line.
The transparent materials so greatly IN
vogue this season will make most beauti-
full and comfortable gowns for sultry sum
mer wear. Sheer white dresses and those
similar textiles are ideal hot weather
gowns, and never were they made up in
a mere becoming and charming manner
for now that exaggeration has wholly
ceased in the matter of immense sleeves
and ansurdly extended skirts, all the feat
ureS of fashion are most graceful and at
tractive, and although there is a pretty
and picturesque fullnesS left at the top of
the sleeves they are so fashioned as to
fit the forearm closely with all the becOm-
ing width distinctly at the upper part. The
sleeves of transparent gowns this season
show unlimited variety and change almost
with each individual wearer. Triple frillS
and puffs, a single medium width puff tap
insertions of lace or embroidery or shirrs
and narrow puffs alternating, going round
up and down, diagonally over the arm,
are faVorite styles in summer sleeves. An
other very popular model is the shape with
a seam on the outside of the arm with full
ness let in from the shoulder to half way
to the elbow. The butterfly and bow knot
draperies are still used on sleeves for even
ing wear.