The San Francisco call., 1897-02-14
THE JHPHNESE LUNCHEON FFD
--latest Unique Function Of Society-No
Masculine Guests Wanted Brilliant
Effects by Dainty Danes

silver, as the taste of the wearer may
elect or her rank in life warrant.
Over all is worn the ha-o-ri or coat with
large flowing sleeves, which is as much
the pride of Japanese lady as is the bon
net to Q Flfth-avenue dame OF colonial de-
scent. For matrons the only permissible
color OF the ha-o-ri is sedate black, but
unmarried ladies take delight in arraying
them selves in three and sometimes four
or'five ha-o-ris of different colors, and the
com bination is always pleasing.
The ha-o-ri also serves the purpose of
showing the rank OF the wearer. On each
shoulder and at a point directly between
IN the back of the garment three circular
holes are cut out in the fabric, and upon
background of different coiored material
from that of the cloak the heraldic device
OF the lady's family is worked in colored
silks.
! The most difficult part of the costume
for the American imitator to wear ard to
accustom herself to are the curious SAN
dals, which are nothing but thick felt
soles raised from contact with the floor by
small blocks of wood fastened to the lower
side, but even this difficulty has in many
instances been overcome, and more than
one titth-avenue belle can, If the truth
were known, move about as gracefully
upon the little Jap sandals as she can in
| the daintiest ball slippers
Above all is the curious little round
gayly colored skull cap with a single
feather stuck in the very center for no ap-
parent reason except to look ludicrous.
Not single detail is omitted and the
transformation of the society woman into
1oI > a..
Thus ar-ayed and lounging at ease about
the japanese room, the ladies who are in
tent upon following the dictates OF Dame
Fashion are prepared for what is the
crowning feature of the affair.
That is the luncheon. And such a
spread. Sui-mo-no is followed by yaki-
zakana and o'sashimi, or If not very ex-
tensive lunch by chawanmori and then
comes kuchitorl- mono, which being rem
dered into English means sweets, while
all throughout the meal o'cha or 'the
very best tea" is served ad libitum.
The sui-mo-no is the soup, preferably of
chicken and vegetables, chopped very fine
and served in dainty china bowls colo1ed
in fanciful designs. The boiled fish or nj
zakana is not quite so popular as some of
the lighter dishes such as o'sashimi, W hich
is very delicate and palatable, but the dis
Greet hostess does not, as rule, tell her
friends that it is highly spiced and favored
fish, cut in very thin slices, freed from all
bone and served raw.
The only English equivalent for chawan-
mori is patties, the dish itself being a
baked com bination of eggs and the meat
OF shellhsh such as crabs or lobsters,
minced and served as side dish.
For the more elaborate Japanese lunch
cons the wise hostess secures the services
/ of a Japanese cook for the occasion, but
many quiet lunch OF this kind is served
by ladies to select few, where the cook
! ing is done by my lady" herself, who
takes pride in serving the dishes in true
japanese style.
Each guest has one of the tiny four
| legged stands-more like a dolls table
than anything else-placed before her,
and on this the meal is served, the lady
sitting on a mat or cushion, as the indi-
viduaI may fancy.
These Japanese luncheons are decidedly
popular with society ladies who have
wearied of the monotony of afternoon
teas and matinee lunches. 1t is a novel
experience and a new sensation to step
! from the hurly-burly of everyday met
! ropolitan life into the quiet and freedom
of Japanese ception-room, where for-
I mality is banished together with chairs
ard tables and picturesque simplicity
| takes the place, for the time being, of the
everlasting and ever-varying diplomacy
! OF society.