The San Francisco call., 1897-08-15
Limited allowances.

hllIIlOO0 O1llO
We read now and then of women who
declare that they find it quite impossible
to dress on $4,000 a year. However, they
are exceptional cases. and to-day l am
| dealing with the subject OF average allow
ances, on which women dress in such
way that they can go out socially without
! feeling annoyed with their appearance,
! for even the sweetest-tem pered woman is
affected by an unbecoming, badly cut gar
ment. 1t has become almost matter of
course that every one must own q tailor
gown, and these vary greatly in price.
| For example, il the allowance is very
small the tailor dress may have to do
duty as calling costume, and if such is
the case have the c,o!h as handsome as
possible, and only employ the best tailor
to make it up, unless your figure is unus-
ually good, for short, stout, short-waisted
women cannot afford to patronize any but
the best. However, if a calling toilette is
possibility really beautiful quality of
back silk VIII prove most satisfactory, as
it meets so many demands. For example,
have two Frenchy bodices, also OF the
same silk, as coiored waists are not liked
by many for visiting purposes. These are
now Iudut dllIdClifS VIII CHllOn-ldE6 IN
sertions, and for evening dressy low-cut
bodice of black and white will be chic.
Blue and black are likewise very stylish
now.
The present beautiful gauzes, nets,
chiffons and mousseline de soies seem
especially we'll adapted for 1.-THE doing
over" of last winters evening frocks, and
really they will be quite charming if an
adequate amount of taste is expended on
! them.
Still it is imperative that you should
have a fresh dinner-gown each winter,
and from what hear the greatest amount
OF wear and satisfaction may be obtained
| by the purchase of a really exquisitely
/ fine piece OF crepe de chine, for ii light in
shade ii NAV be depended upon to clean
perfectly and later. if you are SO disposed,
it will dye beautifully. Guipure lace and
| the most delicate EN- broideries are used in
such confections, and glace silk or satin
| always nowadays forms their foundations.
a word of advice, if you must save do
not attempt 20 do without proper gloves,
! shoes or a new hat, for these at once stamp
| you as shabby if not quite perfect in their
! way, and, sad to state, hats and bonnets
will be more costly than ever this winter,
and this reminds me of the fact that some
! OF the lost fashiona bic women invariably
! first secure their chapeaux before deciding
| on the fabrics for their winter gowns and
a very excellent idea this is l assure YOU,
| for if you are hard to suit you should not
| hesitate to secure a becoming hat any
/ time you may be 80 lucky as to find one
and have your dresses modelled 10 suit it,
as more toilettes are ruined by the add-
tion of hideous and unbecoming headgear
! than in any other way l know, and being
| observant l can assert that few are the
women who are in the least com petent to
select their own chapeaux. Indeed, be-
lieve the old saying that an absolutely
plain woman can easily rival her sister,
who is beautiful, if she thoroughly under
stands her good and bad points and knows
how to dress and her sister does not, but
graciously deliver me from the woman
who spends hours daily before her mirror
and who tries on every hat In town before
she can be suited.
The autumn goods will soon be here.
but unless your pocket book is well sup
| piled be slow In making selections until
the winter stock is here. Purchase stylish
| but conservative things as novelties are
luxuries. There Is rumor that jaunty
velvet jackets. somber in hue, will be
much liked with cloth and silk skirts for
teas and afternoon receptions. Their col
lars and revers are to be EN- broidered with
gold, silver or jet. but these are only suit
able for those VINO have extensive ward
robes and can make many changes. as
only the handsomest of velvet can be used
in their composition, so we will see more
frequently smart cloth jackets that can be
put to many uses.