davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07
Timely Suggestions for Gowns From
Frankfurt Costumers.
new IDEAS IN THE use OF Lace
Summer Sleeves Tucked and SHRED
to Fit the Arm,
A DRESS OF COVERT CLOTH

Special Corr, spoLdence Of The Evening Star.
FRANKFURT. AM, July %, 1897.
The characteristic features of the fash
ionable blouse, jacket bodice are the
small basque, the epaulet and the collar
with its bow or rosette trimming of ribbon,
gauze or lace. Indeed, the neckwear is
very important attribute to the general
appearance of the elegant toilet. The
stiff white collar and the soft ruche are
equally fashionable. provided they hide the
neck completely and reach to the ears and
well under the chin.
The skirt form has become more compli-
Gated ard light, clinging materials no
longer cover the lining smoothly, but are
cut as a full drop skirt over a narrow
siiken underskirt winch greatly adds to the
delicate appearance of the goods. Batiste
and other light wash goods make charming
skirts when tucked and shirred over the
lips. but women leaning toward embon
point should not be tempted into wearing
them, as they enlarge the form and are
fiattering only to very 1.-THE and youthful
figures. A dainty gown of this description
is worn by young lady of our clientele.
Ii is of white mouSSeline de laine, with
little blue silk figure. The bodice follows
the bolero in form, being composed of wide
tucks, one above the other. which encircle
the bodice, and close on the left side under
a fun plating of white mousseline de sole
eOSeQ Win narrow talenclenneS lace N
tight high belt or girdle of blue satin con-
fines the fullness of the blouse at the waist
The ample sleeve cut in a straight piece is
loose at the shoulder, and fastened with
small tucks below. 10 fit the arm closely.
The epaulet consists of a ruffie of mousse
line de sole edged with lace like the one on
the bodice, and another full fiounce trims
the waist. The blue satin ribbon collar is
bordered with narrow ruffied lace. and is
finished by full bow of ribbon at the back
The drop skirt of mousseline de laine is ad-
justed over the hips to the smooth white
satin underskirt by narrow tucks running
lengthwise to twelve inches below the waist
line.
Richly Decorated.
Foulard gowns are richly decorated with
ruffies or pleatings. and taffeta and poplin
show elaborate lace applications of Irish
point or guipure. artistically appliqued in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07
An Appropriate Casket.

From the Chicago Record.
Admiral Lord Charles Beresford is moth
ing II not original, and Is determined to be
SO. even in death. He has resolved to be
buried, not in an ordinary coffin, but in a
casket fashioned in the form of a boat.
which has just been constructed for him by
Liverpool firm. The build of the boat is
OF the style known as "caravel," the ma
terial being of pine, West African mahog-
any, oak and elm. 1t is seven feet long;
and looks like double-ended Hfeboat.
without, perhaps, quite as much shear as
usually is found in such craft. She is pro-
vfded with wooden deck or cover, extend
Ing fore and aft. and fitted lid fashion TO
go over the gunwale. Life lines are fixed
around her. and she is supplied with a
couple of oars, a rudder and tiller The
inside, upholstered by leading London un-
dertaker. is very inviting, and altogether the
beat Is one OF the most attractive coffias
that 1t Is possible to conceive.
Lord Charles does not propose to follow
the example of Sarah Bernhardt and Of
other notoriety-orazed actors and actresses
who carry their collins about with them:
but has resolved to leave it in the care Of
his undertaken, with whom 1t Is to remain
until the time comes for the gallant and
popular sailor to ''slip his cables" Then
his queer lifeboat will be placed in the
family vault of the noble house of Beres-
ford at Curi aghmore, in County Water
ford, Ireland.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07
From the Atlanta Constitution.

From the Atlanta Constitution.
When, a few years ago. some of the Rus
sian grand dufes honored Baker, a town
on the Caspian, with their presence, the
governor had naphtha thinly poured over
the surface Of the sea for a very consider
able distance.
About o o'clock In tie evening the in
1ammatory substance was ignited and a
BLUSH conf1agration spread itself over the
waves of the mighty deep.
To increase the splendor Of the scene a
slight breeze srose. the sea became agi-
tated and the pillows majestically heaved
without any too violent commotjon. Such
a matrimonial alliance IL I may use the
term. of fire and water, was perhaps never
before witnessed.
The flames literally danced on the waves.
blending all their magic beauty with the
splashing restlessness OF their lmpid an
tagonist
The dark green color of the Caspian
shone by the reflection OF the subdued
light riding bodily on the very foam Of the
surface. At length the gale Increased the
naphtha covering became more and more
broken and the glowing carpet extended
over q great distance OF the sea, gradually
assuming the aspect Of SO many jack-o'-
lanterns
A may ballet of gradually extingaisn-
Ing will-o'-the-wisps closed the wonderful
spectacle.
One hour after Its commencement the
watery element had resumed its sway and
the sea again lay enveloped in darkness.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07
H O U S EHOLD HINTS

That old-fashioned edible, "salt-rising''
bread, is seldom seen on a dinner table any
more, and yet it was once the bread of the
world, the civilized portion of it, anyhow.
The recipe that follows is one that Mrs.
T. r. Stockdale, wife of the former repre-
sentative from Mississippi, always used be-
fore yeast bread got to be the fashionable
diet. Fill quart cup with equal parts of
milk and water Pour into large pitcher
and stir in flour enough to make a good
batter. that will drop from a spoon in
chunks" Into this stir one heaping tea
spoonful of salt and set in a warm place.
If at the end of four hours the water rises
to the top stir in more flour. After the
mass rises make into dough, as for yeast
bread, adding about gill of warm milk
or water and little more salt; also piece
of lard the size of an egg. Knead it ten
minutes: then make into loaves and put to
rising, FOR that will make 1t heavy It
may be safa right here that salt-rising
bread is'thes crankiest stuff to do anything
with you, ever saw. If 1t gets too hot or too
cold, II sther9sis too much salt or not quite
enough, VT rises like the ebb tide, by sink
ing bacR. and the odor>of 1t is something
awful. IT is a toothsome dainty when it
comes to the table, however.
This is the time of year that ruins table
linen and ttSJoWnerS temper. Fruit stains!
How they de- torment the careful house,
wifei Soap. I've. ammonia, borax, all these
things set the stains, SO the spots should
be treated before the linen is put into the
wash tub. For most fruit stains put a
small teaspoanful of tartaric acid or salts
Of lemon in q tablespoonful of water Stir
till dissolved. and wet the stained spot and
place In the hot sun. After an hour rinse
out with cold water. and then 1t Is ready
to wash. If 1t does not come out the first
trial, try again. Most fruit stains will
yield to quart of scalding water. Hold
the cloth over a bowl and pour the hot
water through it, For iron rust use lemon
juice. thickened with equal quantities Of
soap and salt and corn starch. Paste over
the rust and place in the hot sun. When
dry pour water. on 1t, and keep 1t up till
the rust is gone. 1t is safe and nearly
always sure remedy.
A distinguished bearing Is the most use-
full possession woman can have She
may be absolutely plain of face and feat
ure, and yet II she has a presence" make
a pretty woman feel insignificant by con-
trast. She may be as poor as a church
mouse, and yet make her richer sisters
most envious. The first requisite for q
woman who desires a presence Is back
bone. In other words. she must know how
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07


the hot, sweet earth breath and the brood
ing of .fhe sky. But these things never
meet till summer is touched with instinct
OF its end. Summer is yellowish muslins
but yellowish muslns wait for bathing
dresses, and when girl Is able to spend
nall the day in the surf and the rest in
Inusnns loan then the days are growing
shorter with warning of future chill. Tais
Table teachesthat to get a thing especially
ysiloYtsh puslin or a bathing dress. is
warning to make ready to let it CO. Too
bad 1t isn't fable
Choky linen collars and stiff shirt
fronts a r. NJ subject to this rule. Its ap-
plicatiCniis ID things desirable Sailor hats
seem 20 escape also. On what ground,
there may be argument.
BIt carpe diem: Enjoy the white silk
while tits worn out of DOORS 1t took up a
good part Of the beach room yesterday not
given ever to yellowish muslin. It was
sashed nth green by preference and cas-
cstded with lace in complex ways. Spotted
muSlih spotted the sands made I'D over
white and frilled till the turning I'D of the
RULES was like the blowing of the leaves
Oh tree in the wind. Tambour muslins
and organizes were in the running with
much draped fchus of chiffon or lace or
mousseiine' re sole. The English express
sion Of gayety is to hang ribbon bunting
..oAi NchslNaH HldStSs l. e., nag STATS.
from the depths Of that burroW Yesterday
the quantities of ribbon fiut er from
pique, not poles made Narragansett tumuI-
tuously gay. Rose pink and pale green
ribbons We're first favorites but every sort
OF dress stree med with any sort of ribbon.
Follow Your Leader.
Hats were in the streaming business. too.
for with the docility of sheep over a wall
every beach gill in the east has Joined the
follow your leader game started by the
first beach girl who tied her veil about the
crown Of her sailor hat, instead of over
her face and let the ends wave behind
There are long ends and short ends tulle
ends. Brussels and Russian mesh ends,
wide ends and narrow ends, spotted ends
and plain white. but always waving wells.
In which fact is warrant for mere moral
izing. The trimmed skirt conditions the
flowing veil. do not suppose that the
beach girl has reasoned with herself say
ing, Because my dress is all dancing ruff
fes. therefore my hat must compromise
with its too demure ways" but without
any whereas or therefore straight brim
and hard crown have yielded to graceful
Generalization. Fashions that last always
harmcnize with their environments. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07

the chiffon and lace make 1t seem quite
large. The stick is of wfite-wood, with a
handle of enamel in blue corn-howers and
green leaves. which relieves the too SOM
Der effect Of black and white. All-wilite
parasols are always fashionable. and this
season as much so as ever; but the latest
fancy of a full inner lining of some color
Is a great improvement when the parasol
is opeEed. as not only is the thin material
too sheer to be comfortable to the eyes.
burt the effect of the dead white is not be-
coming.
This inside lining is sometimes of thin
silk put on quite plain-pale green. yellow
or Dink-or else is of accordion ted
chiffon SO arranged to be very full, and
consequently more Opaque. A pale pink
chiffon lining is trimmed with row after
row of " hite lace. each ruff1e overlapping
the other, and under the last one a full
ruf;le of pleated chifon-wnite, not pink
Lace parasolS are sometimes made with
alternate ruffies of black and white lace
and these are very smart. One exceedingly
effective style has first pleatings of white
chiffon, then a covering of white mousse
line de sole with entre-deux of Valen-
ciennes. Over this. again, is a covering of
black with bands of black lace. The ham
die of this parasol is a work of art-of
black enamel studded with tiny diamonds
10 accompany a dainty gown of pale
yellow muslin an exquisite parasol is made
of yellow mousselne dc sole, with bands
OF Valenciennes insertion and a double
ruffie of Valenciennes lace There is an in
ner lining fitted tight over the frame CT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07

pale yellow silk and the outside covering
seems to be caught only at the top and
bottom, and droops gracefully over the
lining. The handle is Of carved ivory. such
as was in fashion some years ago.
Ivory handles. by one way, have come in
again, and there are some beautiful pieces
of carving to be seen among them. The
plain ivory also Is in favor. and comes in
odd shapes.
Black chiffon and mousseline de sole
parasols are used with light gowns when
black hats are worn. They are not SO ef-
fective as the light ones. but are exceed
ingly smart Those made with the ma
terial put on very FULL and finished around
the edge with two org three ruffles, are the
smartest There are some that are attract
I'VE which are trimmed with rows of mar
row black ribbon fastened only at one
edge. These are more suitable to carry
with silk gowns than with muslin ones
Bright red chiffon and mousseline de sole
are carried with red gowns and when
lined with white are not at all too vivid.
Some of the red ones are also striped with
black ribbon, but as rule the entire col
oring Is red-not a scarlet. but the cerise
which is still so fashionable.
Parasols Of purple chiffon are only to be
used with purple gowns They are ex-
ceedingiy elaborate. and generally have
folds. The coloring is very dainty and ef
fective, and carries out the color scheme
Ct the purple gowns most charmingiy. A
pretty idea is to have two or three different
shades Of purple in the one parasol. shad-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07

large all-over patterns, or as borders in
form of graceful garland5 or arabesques.
AS an Illustration of this genre we show
in our ateliers a rich gown of linen batiste
over an underdresS of Nile-green taffeta.
The batiste which is stretched across the
at the waist and gathered into belt of
Nile-green taffeta ribbon, closing at the
left side under a large bow of ribbon and
lace. The whole front of the batiste blouse
Is appliqued with arabesques and designs
in point lace. the batiste underneath being
cut away The cloSe-fitting skirt has the
front gore likewise lace-incrusted and de-
fined by narrow founce of lace over an
other hounee of Nile-green gauZe, thus
forming tablier. The collar of taffeta is
edged with narrow gathered lace and Nile
green gauZe, and closes under a full bow
of taffeta ribbon ard lace. The epaulets
tiste, each founce edged with gathered
lace and Nile-green gauze shrred into
tiny tucks to fit the arm closely, a style
very well adapted to slender arms. A
cuff of lace finishes this novel sleeve at
the wrist.
The absolutely smooth skirt is worn only
with outing costumes dresses for very
ordinary wear, and even the tailor made
gown has the skirt deliberately trimmed
with soutache or braiGing to match the
decorations on the short Jacket or the
much-favored bolero.
Street Costume.
Our illustration represents a street gown
OF the most approved style. 1t is to be
made of reddish-brown covert cloth. The
skirt is cut in the newest form, having but
three cores, and fits closely in front and
over the hips. while all fullness is gath
cred in pleats at the back. very slightly
Stfffened interlining is placed between the
cloth and the lining of changeable green
and rose taffeta. This interlining, together
with very pliable fine steel band inserted
in the hem of the skirt, gives body to
the cloth and greatly improves the hang of
the garment. The seams of the front gore
are machine stitched in tailor-mada STYLE
and rich braiding of narrow black MORE
ribbon and black silk soutachc extends
along the front seams and around the skirt
Stimulating a tunic. The natty Jacket of
covert cloth has rounded corners and is cut
to have the front darts and back seams
meet at the shoulders. 1t is lined like the
skirt, with taffeta. The deep V-shaped
trimmings at the back meet at the points
and consist of narrow black MORE ribbon
sewn on vertically and edging of silk
soutache. The tailor collar is of black
MORE franchise and the reveres. braided to
match the skirt and back of jacket, open
wide over a vest of white moira, trimmed
with full jabot of creamy real lace and
belt of black MORE. The nigh collar Of
white MORE is yelled with lace and IS fin
ished at the back by bow of the same
lace. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves show the
soutache and ribbon garni.ure at the Shout
ders and wrists. The large hat of black
straw '.paille satin accompanying this
costume has the wide brim covered with a
full fiounce of the same lace as trims the
front of the vest. At the back a tuft of
black ostrich tips and black aigrette rises
high above the broad crown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07

one sunny temper and a soul fun of ambi-
ton can conquer worlds. The title Of gen
tieman' belongs of right only to him who
earns II, the title of lady" to her VINO
has made herself fit for it, All honest
work is honorable, though 1t may not all
be alike pleasing to perform, and those
who win laureis from barren fields are the
ores who retain them longest
When plants. roses and other pets suffer
from insect life. sprinkle the leaves with a
1t remain on for few days. 1t can be
rinsed off with cold water. II is almost
sure death to the bugs, but does not harm
the plants.
Powdered soapstone and salt make an
everlasting lining for worn-out stove lire
boxes. Take equal parts of the salt and
scapstone and wet to thick paste with
water, and spread on, then let il dry
Sick headache will sometimes yield to n
cup of strong. clear coffee that has the
juice of half a lemon in it.
II the crackers have got stale. nut them
in baking tin and stand in the oven tn
they brown slightly, and they will be fresh
as ever.
1t takes housekeepers a long time to learn
that asbestos plates such as you can get
Tor nve cents each are the incest thing in
the world to put under the tin In which
you are cooking oatmeal rice milk ar
any OF those other things that burn so
easily. They cannot burn unless they boil
dry, If you use the plate under them.
Never use the cores of ounces in making
Jeiy. Parings may be used, but the
ounces should be treated to a good wash
ing before peeling.
Before repainting. always wash the old
paint to free it from finger marks and
grease. Soda and hot water and a fianneI
cloth Will do the business
Put a teaspoonful of sugar to a mess of
turnips and you will miss the peculiar Bit
ter taste that they SO often have L: is
best to run turnips through a colander. IL
you want them mashed. because they have
hard little Jumps that beater cannot get
cut
1t is said that molasses rubbed on grass
stained clothing will remove the marks of
too energetic acquaintance with the green
sward 1t will hurt nothing to try IT, Rub
the molasses In and let stand in the sun for
few hours.
The juice Of lemon added to the cooking
rice will whiten it wonderfully and not in
jure the flavor.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07

to stand we'll. Head up shoulders straight.
abdomen In, feet firmly planted that will
FAKE any woman prcsentable. Il you don't
believe 1t, you doubling sister with the
shirt waist that never Is on good terms
with your dress skirt. ami whose collar
insists On creeping up about your ears,
just practice getting into those posturcs
Ior one straight week. ana then report
Fifteen minutes a day for three months
VIII make over any woman VINO is not
AFRAID of getting tired.
Servants were servants away back in
1868, just as varied. in fact, as the woman
Who bossed them. and both were much as
they are in this end of the century year.
servants were fined In those days for each
trivial offense. penny was thought
enough to fine a servant who left open a
Geor that should have bean closed. and
the same fine did service for missing fam
ily prayers, OR leaving The beds OF tie
house unmade later than o'clock in tie
morning! The cook might have a teau.
Tut she had to pay a fine every time he
came OF l penny. II such rules were en-
forced now. madam would find herself
without 'la1y help in short order.
A nice way to cook an egg for a deli
cate stomach is as follows: Heat a cup of
milk to the boiling cint In a perfectly new
tin cup. While at the boiling point. break
and drop into 1t Perfectly sresh egg, then
set the tin back where |: will not let the
milk boil, and let the whit, '.set' for four
minutes. then lift cut and serve with a bit
OF sweet tutter and little salt.
busting is process that few women like
to go through, but 1t IL as necessary as
sweeping. II you use a damp dust rag
have clean.. dry one to follow 1t or YOU
will leave streaks on your shiny furniture
silk handkerchief Is the incest thing for
fine furniture. A stif bristle brush and a
small whisk broom are necessary for up-
hclstered furniture. All Of these should be
shaken and beaten or washed free of dust
and grit as soon as used and before being
put away.
Poverty Is bad enough, but there Is an
abyss that is far deeper, and that is debt,
II you own but one coat, and that IL patch
ed and on your back: but one pair OF hose
and they are dsrned beyond recognition,
you can yet hold your head high as that
of any honest man. But II you owe debt
that you cannot pay. why, then you are
some mans slave till you are freed from
the fncumbrance. Half the unhappiness of
the world comes not from poverty but
from debts incurred that might have been
avoided.
Don't let your respondent feelings get the
better OF you! Life may not be q long
dream Of cakes and ale but Just remem-
Der that II it were. your digestion would
soon be ruined ON such q Diet and no
amount Of wealth could bring happiness
under such circumstances. Two willing
hands. one stout heart, two nimble feet,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-07
SPERM WHALE a FIGHTER.
Defeats SwOrdfsh md Two Kill
lers" I'm Fair Fight.
From the CornhIll Magazine.

II rom the tornni1 Magazine
Two killers" and huge swordfish
(xiphias), desperate with hunger had COM
bined their forces and ventured to attack
a half-grown bull cachalot Nothing. 1
am persuaded, but the direct necessity and
pressure of want could have prompted
them to undertake SO grave a conflict, al
though it must reeds be confessed that
their combination was a powerful one. Ii
fen to the swordfish TO lead or ard he
launched himself at the whale like a
Whitehead torpedo. pointed direct for the
most vital part. But a gentle swerve of
the wary cachalot presented to the attack.
instead of the vulnerable broadside, the
oblique impenetrable mass of his head
The awful blow of the sword impelled by
the furious speed of the mass behind il
struck just above the whales eyes. ripping
a white streak diagonally upward through
but spending its force in the air above
while the great body following glided r.
pentlike right over the whGles head ami
fell heiplessly upon the other side.
With incredible agility for vast a bulk
the cachalot turned, settling slightly with
al. then rising, lower jaw uppermost, he
caught the xiphias in the center between
those mighty shears and cleft him i'm two
halves. A sideway shake of the great head,
a scarce perceptible gup, and the tail of
the swordfish slid down the whales cav
ernous throat with much ease and ra-
pidity as If it had been an oyster. Mean
while the orcas had not bee remiss in
supporting the spirited attack of their i'll
fated coadjEtator. One hung upon each
flank of their giant foe and worried him
as dogs boar. But their time had come
After vainly endeavoring by rolling and
writing TO free himself from them ne
suddenly changed his tactics. Rearing
himself majestically out of the seething
eddies like mighty column of black rock
he fell backward. tearing himself away
from the clinging monsters. Up rose his
enormous tail from the boiling vortex, and
descending like a giant scythe literally
crushed one of his aggresscrs beneath IL.
the sound of the blew reverbcratng ike
thunder. The survivor fed, but the in
furiated Titan pursued. lie aping like a dol
pnin half out Of the sea at every bound,
and although we could Lot see the end Of
the chase we had little doubt that the
gladiator paid the full penalty of his RASH
ness under the lethal sweep of those terri
BILE jaws.