The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-06-13


the few things from whose value time
does not detract, and which is always
desirable. But this particular summer
lace is used so universally that it is
more valuable than ever Beside the
usual frilling and fiounces and edgings
and insertings, we are wearing boleros
OF lace-even on cotton gowns, while
summer silk can hardly be said to
De complete without one. And now the
very latest thing is to have entire
bod1ces made of this dainty fabric
Trey are usually ecru in color and are
made in the fayOrite pouch fashion
fastening at the side They have sim
ply high band and ruffled sleeves
These are made to wear over detached
bcdices Of any desired color, and are
thus as economical as they are pref
(which is saying a great deal.
The demand for printed silk muslin
of filmy texture is hardly equal to
the supply. 1t comes in so many beau
tiful colors and falls in such soft and
becoming folds that it is extremely
popular for dressy costumes. Nothing
could be more suitable for the warm,
balmy days, the soft green tones being
especially attractive and cool looking.
Green and white are greatly in favor
ana L saw one such combination that
was really delightful. The gown itself
was OF white canvas, trimmed with the
lightest green, inch wide gauze ribbon
with a satin edge. This was applied in
the form Of braiding to the skirt in a
very intricate pattern. and also on
the sleeves and the front Of the bodice.
The epaulettes formed long cape-iike
trimmings above the arms and the
sleeves fell over the hand. The effect
of the whole was very satisfactory.
Here is an appropriate costume for
those of us who sometimes go to the
Nhn ioJ &c thn
lar foulard in a soft pearl gray. The
skirt is of the fashionable sun-ray
pleated variety, edged with ruche Of
black silk muslin made very full, and
striped down the sides with treble
rows of heavy black lace insertion, con-
nected together for several inches at
the top, so as to we'll mould the hips.
The blouse and sleeves are both tuck
ed, and trimmed with insertions Of the
black lace to correspond with that on
the skirt. The square fat epaulettes
are of silver guipure scalloped with
tiny pleatings of black lace, the felt and
straight collar being also of the gui-
pure. The hat to wear with this gown
is of fine gray straw with beret crum-
pied crown set off with bows and drap-
cries in pearl gray chiffon. 1t has IN
aigrette of black ostrich tips at the
side. The parasol if of Peking silk edged
with a silk muslin f1ounce.
Accordion pleating is very much In
favor, and appears in almost endless
variety in the matter Of the arrange
nIents of the plea.ts Perhaps the most
fashionable at present is the sun-ray
kilt pleated skirt, otherwise known as
plisse soleil. but this is only one of
many. One of the newest styles is the
croSs-way killing, especially suitable
for sleeves and house gowns. Then
there are stripes formed of some dozen
close set killings, with an inch of plain
material above, while others form box
pleats broken at intervals by strips
of the same material Another style
falls in waved lines, which closely re-
Semble cordingS and minute undine
WaVings in corded stripes, closely set
together either in lines or Vandykes.
Some of the ordinary killings are
broken by festooned scallCps of the
material. and give the aspect of d
single or double row of founcing.
Fashionable Capes are much trimmed
with kilt pleated Hsse, and some, for
evening and carriage wear, are cover
ed with lace, killed, ard in it's turn
Overlaid with lace flouncings. Very
many of the latest blouses are either
tucked or killed, some suggestion Of
this style appearing on the sleeves if
not elsewhere. Even the parasols.
which this year are so much trimmed
as to be actually fussy, are covered
| with accordion pleating, and have fril-
lings at the edge of lace and silk. The
latest thing in handles for these addi
lions to the toilette is the Semblance
of horse chestnut bursting from it's
prickly sheath.
We are going to wear 1barege again
ard it is really a very desirable ma
terial in many ways, although the sort
we used to have was noted for it's I'M
pleasant tendency to split horizontally
he lic-l,+ fil0-o
none at ALL The modern variety, how
ever. IS better woven, and many Of
the newest dresses are being made Of
it. The most fashionable color in which
the new barege is seen is that very
lig hteSt shade of pearl grey. Of which
our grandmothers were SO fond and
which has not been in favor for
very long time.
A particular fetching costume is
made Of green and white foulard. with
q plain skirt displaying a gathered
hounce piped and set into Vandykes.
The bodice, which is. perhaps, its most
charming feature, has a boleTo d plain
green satin cut into points across the
bust and traced with ecru embroidery
threaded with gold. The loose fronts
of the foulard are tied with careless
ends to show vest Of white chiffon
frilled down one side With lace. The
sleeves are quantity suggestive of the
Tudor period with very short puffS at
the top and elbow made of the foulard
plain satin being ruched between those
The hat that is to he the finishing
touch to this dainty gown, is of green
straw, it's brim trimmed with Iceland
peoples in shaded pink. There is
white osprey at the back with a lace
bow outstretched below it.
A rather striking popularity of the
season is the very general use of vivid
red, both for day and evening wear
1t is especially noticed in hats of the
picture" variety, which are seen
everywhere, even on young girls barely
out of school. These hats are mostly
of poppy-red straw, trimmed with the
same shade sometimes, though rarely,
relieved by a touch of black. They are
rather daring. but quite effective with
fresh young faces.