The herald., 1897-04-04
WHATTOWEAR
Green a Popular Color
This Month
GRAY AND DARK DRESSES
MILLINERY IS EXTREMELY
BRILLIANT
Lawns, Grenadines and Colored Tafs
fetas to Be Worn--A New Use
for Old Neckties

NEW YORK, March 30.-It is the
wearing of the green in earnest. Jackets
capes, dresses, hats al things that wo-
men count among their exterior cloth~
ing, are akin to the Emerald isle at
least in color. 1t is the gray green OF
the sheathed bud that contains the
flower ready to bloom, the delicate tint
of the bud itself and the brighter color
ing of the expanded leaf. Violet shades,
particularly Parma velvet, rank second
only to green in point Of popularity.
Very light tones of stone color are often
worn, as are chestnut, russet and cinna-
mon crown.
One OF the popular costumes in gray
green cloth is trimmed with emeralds on
limitations thereof. The bolero-shaped
short bodice is fastened with one large
alleged emerald and steel button over a
full vest of pale Parma violet silk. The
revers are edged with gallon and the
sleeves are finished off with the same at
the wrists and frills of lace, the high
| tabled collar being treated in similar
manner A hat of coarse gray green
| straw which completes the costume has
| a twist of violet silk around the crown
and bunch of shaded ostrich feathers
starting from an emerald and steel
| square buckle.
| Really, however, the topic of the hour
is the coat and skirt. Are they to be
! light, dark plain or braided? Must the
| jacket be long or short? The genius who
| answers these questions must consider
| herself mainstay of fashion. The
| diplomatic one says, have coat and
| skirt of both kinds. If you can have
| but one, however, take gray or drab
cloth. This is positively fashionable, no
matter who says it is not. The people
| -1,4 Ia Co c1f fNt, fran ha q foc
of the tickle dame say it so. Then a
dark cloth dress is very excellent There
| is no use trying to deny the fact that the
skirts of the hour are trimmed. Plain
| rows of braiding will meet the demand
| of fashion for decoration, and an ex-
cellent way of treating these is to permit
them to extend their influence around
the back and terminate in small curl
| design on either side of the front seams.
A model costume is evolved from the
decoration of plain skirt of dark blue
| with rows of machine stitching up to
the knees, the coat of this being cut into
square tabs reaching the waist, not tight
fitting yet scarcely deserving the title
of sack. This coat fastens over at one
| side with pointed revers faced With gui-
pure and is worn over a boaice or blue
and green plaid glace showing waist
coat of guipure mounted on iisse. The
| hat to this Is made of blue and green
| shot straw, trimmed with large rosettes
of glace ribbon anu bunch Of blue
poppies with green centers.
A remarkably pretty cloth dress Is Of
black, with trimmings of graduated
| black velvet around the front, terminat-
| ing at the side seams with rosettes Of
| velvet ribbon. Then there is another
grey cloth dress which has lines Of braid
around the back, these terminating
each side of the front seam. More and
more it is coming in evidence, too, that
t,Ic cd foo
evening wear will make up with
nounces on scallop lines or straight with
! occasional dippings to the front and
back. The up-to-date founce is hem
med with narrow ribbon. Still another
revival of the early forties is barege.
There is no question but that the thin
stuffs are to be the popular textiles this
season.
Any one who cares to go where the
| children of fashion congregate cannot
avoid being impressed with the amount
of red that is visible. For this fad the
! present season, we must thank our
| friends from France. The woman who
| follows the French fashion prophet will
undoubtedly be pleased to learn that the
| older folks may wear reds of all shades.
The wearer of dark red dress should
wear bright red hat, trimmed with va
| rious shades of pink and crimson, the
| blouse being yet another shade OF red,
and the cravat still another shade. Me-
cessarily all these shades must harmon-
| ize.
After carefully observing those who
| dress in the height of fashion, inter-
viewing the most enterprising modistes.
| and studying the foreign fashion plates
until 1 could see stars had it borne in
upon me that in all cases skirts are con-
siderably narrower. Indeed, they grow
small by degrees and beautifully less.
Every skirt of novel detail fits quite
tightly around the hips, but has little
fullness at the hem, and for the most
part, lacks stiffness. There may be per.
haps two or three inches of this to in
duce the machine stitching or braiding
to set with rectitude. But we no longer
bear the burden of yards of horse-hair or
it's like. 1 have observed in some of the
new models the tinieSt of bustles in the
back of the waist. This is by no means
indicative that we are again to bestoW
our affections on the improver under ito
most unimproving aspect, but merely
that the authorities have discovered
that woman's figure, when the skirt
is absolutely tight Just below the waist
needs little artificial assistance to rem
der it elegant.
This is to be a year of brilliant mill
linery. The combination of color II
something to be remembered. and not
always because it is pretty. For In
stance. one model is of bright blue and
| GREEN StIdW, Will ldl sc AAooNC ~ 10 -
ranged in aigrette form and twists Of
all colors in silk, fastened with large
paste ornaments. The crown is high
and the brim broad. And the milliner
says that hats will be larger yet. YER
ily,if we are ultra fashionable this sea-
son, we will have to suffer for 1t. Straw
hats are decorated with bands Of fold
ed ribbon, set on the top of the crown
with huge punches of violets or prim-
luas on each side. The coloring OF the
new straws is vivid in the extreme In
cluding the brightest of blues, greens
and pinks. The hat crowns now rival
rival the brims in shape, they are be-
coming so wide. Large wings start out
each side of the velvet or satin fronts
making them wider still. Masses OF
flowers of all colors and sorts, three or
four different kinds on one hat, are also
feature of the latest models- Spangle0
net, lisse, net and ribbons, chiefly striped
gauze are all pressed into the services
and ostrich plumes stand aggreesiveV
erect. 81 III
Partisan women are using their ol4
necklets as shoulder straps with goo4
effect. Indeed. we are all Intent "a
breaking up our jewels. For now that
long diamond chain has become ues
lcessity to really smart women, ~
diamondbraceIets. necklets, rivlQfoo ana
40 c~o. ~ knauo donrofled fdF <6n u11mn