The San Francisco call., 1897-08-22

somewhat coarse, and will be much used
this coming season Tor elaborate evening
dresses. Still another kind of braiding is
to be used on the short. jaunty- looking
jackets that will be much worn for late
sum mer. One of these is made OF bright
red cloth, closed half way down the front
and opening to show the shirt or blouse
beneath. The collar is small, but close
fitting, and the sleeves have an almost
i'm perceptible fullness at the shoulder. 1t
comes down to within a couple of inches
OF the waist, and is slashed up on the side
seams. The only trimming is the narrow
gold braiding which borders it all round
and Is carried around the double row of
brass buttons which adorn the side seams
and the cuffs.
Many of the newest blouse vests are also
made open in front, so as to show chemi-
settle, the belt being fastened over the
TWO. An elegant white serge costume IS
thus made. 1t has frilled chemisette of
brown taffeta showing in front, the belt
being of the same material. Straps of
white mohair braid, with pearl buttons at
their extremities, trim the skirt, basques
and fronts OF the blouse and the shaped
epaulettes.
We are going to wear spanges again,
both in Jet and colors, although the for
mer will be especially fashionable. Jet
bands in spangles and colored jewels are
very effective, IDd je. edgings and pas
sementeries will appear on many cos
tunes. Steel and jet in mbnation is
one of the new garnitures and blouse
fronts of black net, EN- br oidered in jet and
colors. will also be much worn. Silk is TO
be the material this coming fall, black
black fancy silks are coming prominently
to the front. These latter will be in en-
| tirely new patterns, the floral and foliage
effects being now considered little out of
date. The combination of jet and steel on
these silks cannot fail to be prod of
| good results as far as effect is concerned.
| The popular styles for early fall cos.
tunes will be the blouse vest. with a
basque beIted around the waist, and the
short-titted jacket. Among the latter are
to be found some open in front. with
rounded basques and broad collar contin-
! ued in lapels, a triangular notch being cut
out to divide the two. Others. also open
| IN front, have no lapels, but curve gently
up to finish in high collar.
| Both in texture and construction the
new fashions are decidedly more becoming
! than for some time past. Soft plaitings.
raperies and folds are the orCer OF the
day and the variety OF material is endless.
| The colors also are much more soft and
| harm monious, the neutral tints being greatly
in favor, the brighter tints being merely
employed to relieve what might otherwise
| be dullness OF effect.
| The new yoke skirt was employed in q
strikingy original way in costume that
/ saw recently. The body of the skirt was
| in silver-gray cashmere, sun pleaied. The
blouse cuirasse, with shoulder-sirap ps and
shaped basque-band coming down over
the yoke of the skirt, was of gray velvet
elaborately embroidered with steel beads
and spangles. The yoke of the blouse
was of gray pieated velvet, and the sleeves
were of the cashmere and small leg-of.
mutton in shape. The neck band and
wais.band were OF smoke-colored gray
velvet, the entire costume being thus oil
unrelieved gray, the glistcning steel of the
EN- mbrodery forming the only bright touch.
CYNTHIA.