The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1897-04-22

ing the Jersey flats instead of the marshes
piessions OF this journey into Guatemala
are not such as eXalt the mind. On both
sides of the track are the straw -thatched
huts of the wretched little port, scattered
irregularly among the festiferous NOR
asses and muddy pools that succeed each
other with dismal continuity all over the
vast plain. But things turn out better
when the last shallow lagoon is crossed
and the ascent begins. We feel at once
refreshing breeze and inhale the sweet
perfume of flowers. Presently the track
runs into a tangled forest, in which the
most noticeable trees are ceibas of enor-
nous size. A wonderful climbing vine,
with blossoms of hundred varied hues,
runs mp and down and over all the trees
and shrubs in most capricious fashion,
hanging itself in festoons from bough to
Dough, and occasionally leaping across
the track to a tree on the other side. Mon
keys and paroquits scream and chatter in
its shade and myriads of humming birds
and gorgeous butterflies flutter among the
flowers. The name Guatemala signifies
Full Of Trees and all the mountain
sides are clothed with magnificent forests
Two-t thirds of the country is yet I'M
titled and probably looks very much as it
did when the first European saw it-bear-
ing the teeming Indian population. But
there are plenty of Indians left, we are
told-some Of them, especially in the
northern department of Peten, as fierce
and unconquered as before Alvarado's
day. In strange contrast to the butter
flies and humming birds, darling about
like animated jewels, are the great clum-
sy iguanas, summing themselves by the
wayside. Until the ugly creatures move,
the unpraeticed eye can hardly distin-
guish them from the foliage. or the
branches ON which they bask. Like the
chameleon, they change color with en-
vironment, from various shades OF green.
exactly matching the foliage, to the grey
of rocks and tree trunks Fancy making
pet Of one of those loathsome creatures,
ct people do it, and it is said that the
iguana soon learns to know his masters
voice and to show considerable affection.
Certainly he can never become ga ioy for
ever in the way of beauty; mouth like
toad, green, glittering eyes, large pen
dulous dewlap, row of lancet shaped
a long pointed tail However. he is of
much more use in the world than the most
beautiful humming- birds and butterflies.
being an excellent food animal His deli
cate white meat, when broiled. is equal to
the breast of the tenderest turkey that
ever graced New England THANKSGIVING
five OF six dozen, are all yolk and verv de-
licious. Our first taste OF iguana flesh
was sprung upon us unawares, in the
guise OF chicken or perhaps we might not
have taken more kindly to adding them to
our cosmopolitan bill of fare than did
Columbus and his companions, who called
them 'serpentes, and ate them only
when driven to the diet by stern necessity.
No wonder that foreigners find it diff
cult to live in these hot, moist low
lands of Guatemala, where the atmos-
phere is like that of an over heated con
servatory. Up in the higher attitudes the
climate is as near perfection as one is
likely to find on this mundane sphere:
but near the coast region diseases of a
malaria nature attack everybody not to the
manner born, and even brighten away peo-
pie OF native birth but foreign blood. who
might be thought proof against ordinary
caleHturdS. The unwh0lesome generations
from the low lands and marshes, that are
alternately lakes and swamps according
to season, would probably be ended by
judicious draining, filling and planting:
but here again comes in an evidence OF the
uncommercial character of the Guatama-
lans. Since the days when the Spanish
conquerors, building their fleets in the
harbor of Istapa, died of vomito by the
hundreds, nothing has ever been done
toward making the ports habitable, or
utilizing what might become the most
productive part of the country 1t is three
hours ride to Escuintla, the ancient CAPT
tai of the Pipiles, which lies about one
third of the distance between the port and
capital, at an elevation of LOO feet
most of the rise being made near the town,
where the grade is very steep. Emerging
from the woods, we get splendid views of
the volcanoes, and some interesting sights
at wayside hamlets. Finally we roll into
handsome station of wood and iron, and
the train halts for breakfast. No hasty
''20 minutes for refreshments in this
blessed land of to- morrow! Travellers are
given full hour; and after a generous
meal, served in cool patio, under SUI
peru palms-with bar alongside. pre-
sided over by woman-they may saunter
among the adjacent coffee groves and flirt
with willing senoritas, or gather informa-