The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-02-14
~GAs7RoNOMIC NOTES.

The rastronomic taste Of mooarchs 10 q sub
ject that has engaged the attention Of histori-
cal writers supposed 10 be abov" the considera-
tion Of the frivolities OF life. The Erentno
Standard OF London has recently culicd from
many sources a large number u facts In re-
lnti0n to The pecullarities OF royal and i'm
perlal eplcures. Carlyle. In bis Lie NJ Fred
erick the Great" fails to record that his.hero
was n %elutton. a weakness. tempered. how
ever. by a high appreciation Of superior cook
cry. Charles V. OF Spain was OF n similar
type. He invariably commenced the day with
q very early morning repast of potted oapons,
prepared with sugar, milk. and spices. With
this meal he drank iced beer. Almost all
the Bourbons were gross feeders. Louis NV.
XVI, and XVIII. notably 20. The first and
last were accomplished cooks and Inventors OF
dishes. Louis XVII. was tho originator of
%trufies a la pu-ee d'orsolans. Hardicanuto
one Of the carly Danish Kings. was also a gross
feeder. so much so that he was known rs
SWINGS Mouth" He partook OF four daily
meals, and at each the table was loaded with
fsh. meat. and 10 81. Stansilaus LuIinski of
Poland caused geese 20 be plucked alive. then
whipped to death before lie considered them
At to be cooked. The Prince lie soubIse was
IN cpicurc mar excellence. He provided his
cook with Nifty hams Of which the essence, for
u lbui-'Ahllbn VI NuNTf. Hlltu fUlN ~ tUlhl
bottle Peter the Great had q gross taste. His
favcrite dinner consisted of q soup composed
OF iGHr co esSGsse;' piS; with q ,, sayss OF cnc s0nr
bers., lemons and lAmprey cells. salt meat. ham.
and Limburscr cheese. OF the House OF Han
were eluttons. George III, was an enforced
nscetic from fear OF govt and corpulency. Tho
TO d,iicate yinnds. on a certain occasion
when on n visit TO Belvoir Castle, the menu,
IN him Ia uaa nat oil ~ fhDr0 xgoA anvfhtnn
elss he fanciad. II promptly answered.
Roast pig and an apple dumplins," or the
pies the fret rank as an ~cpicurc. He possesses
genuine Rsstronomic taste. the outcome OF a
siGys, G Ss snllnS5y art as exc np wHfo In i ass
German poses as, n bon %yivant. hut this is
only in a line with his claim to the posses-
ments. We're he n Viennese instead of .
Berliner he might be taken more seriously
In the role OF epicure.
The recent Paris Cookery Exhibition WIS
not a complete success. II was organized by .
culinary association uuder the Presidency of ".
Marquee y, proprietor OF the famous restaurant
OF that name on the Boulevard Bonno Noorvelle.
the last survivor OF the group Of cafes for which
Paris was once 50 noted. NJ. Marguery 10 not
only n great caterer. he Is also a philanthropist.
He Is the founder and Presidect OF q society de-
voted to the interests OF restaurant servants and
walters. lie Is President octhc Society OF ALI
mentation. composed exclusively OF dealers In
food supplies. and Chevalier Of tho Legion Of
Honor. Tho only piece exhibited that was at all
noticeable was that OF the veteran cook Emile
Bernard. for twenty-four years chef de cut.
sine TO Emperor William I. of.Germany. His
composition WAS a sturgeon q Ia rasse. which
Was dished on a stand representing an Ice
berg rHrnished with slices Of salmon and a
Ware. Large crawnsh thanked the sturgeon.
and the whole was ornamentcd with aspio
Jelly in,esmixcd With large ;rufics and seal:
OF the Partisan cook of to-day, There are a
who would feel themselves humiliated did theJ
oNer a composition or so small orirlnality for
sS pSor exhi rasI,.:, Al'hG pSSl. the cui, I'm, THs
play Of delloatessen. pastry, and rontection-
cry, The most remarkable performance was
guery's. He showed the breast OF a duck d..
dided into hfty-eight slices. each. as thin as
S.r Shss, w Ht p rs snrae rh's with rghms a slIssr f %sss 81
Among tho cookery COMPETITIONS was ono be-
tween forty girls. between six and sixteen years
II age. pupils OF the 81. Denis school OF cook
cry. Another was a trial Of skill between half
a dozen well-snown chefs, who prepared and
Tho exhibition closed with 4 dinner Of l30
covers at Marguerv's restaurant. VI. Mar
query, who presided, prides himself upon the
lcugth Of service Of those in his employ. among
them are 'our cellar men. a class whose merits
receive but littln recognition. yet NJ Mar.
query took occasion to pRy that OF all his sub.
ordinat"s the services OF none were more i'm.
portnnt and valuable to him, inasmuch as ro
post In y good restaurant required greater 40
briefly. tact, judgment. md intelligence, com
bined with y thorough knowledge OF winos
and liquors. than that OF cellar man.
Our rastronomic habits and tastes offor q
wide field OF criticism to European.observers.
When our cookery and elibles fail. our man
nara nj fha tnhIe md nrnnnnaas-fo dyanonaia
afford a never. failing topic. Among the later
criticisms OF this character Is one printed In a
recent issue, OF u journal devoted exclusively
to tho culinary instruction OF the English
middle class, who are always In sympathy
with ans hing that vii. emphasize the I'M
preston thar we are In n coalition OF rapid
degeneration. On this occasion the journal
In question sails attention 10 what IL Is
pleased u designate our "'Gnrgantuan spreads"
at the early morning meal. when chops. steaks.
fish, fruit, potatoes, hOminy, mush, buck
wheat cakes and molaSses, ew bread, and
must alarming rate II to This is added the
use Of the pla ed knife, we have In The Wow
pcpsis WHEN martyrs the Whole nation" The
plated knife. II IL asserted, 10 adopt-d in our
anxiety TO save time. Unlike y steel blade,
meat; hence our marty rdom to dyspopLia and
rapid degeneration as a-neople,
The opening of the Siberian Railway will
have the effect OF over turning entirely the pre-
conceived idea that Siberia is a land In which
gastronomiC rohnerlonts are entirely unknown.
In many OF the larger towns luxury IL tho rule
rather then tho exception, From Ry Kros Rya
n recent visitor reports that meals we're served
to him that could not he exCelled any where in
EUROPE. from tho Joint OF view OF perfection
OF service and cookery. Apart from native
delicauies all chose procurable In the capitals
or Europe ale oDtainable In the larger Slber-
ian towns. The sterlet. q fish that Sir Edwin
Arnold says combines the delicaoy OF the trout,
the c~rlspness OF the turbot, and the digestibil.
Ivy OF the sole, is q native product tame Of