The herald., 1897-04-25
Z0UAVE JACKET REM0DELED
SILKEN POPLIN STEPS INTO
THE FRONT RANK
Four Popular Styles of Collars--How
to Make the Sun Pleated Skirt.
Dress Fronts and Trimmings

theatrical people say, in for a run. A
'fftfffhejyOable hit ra do Ii bm gfkwqy
watered silk poplin, cut into small
checks, in cream and brown, white and
black, gray and white, and in other
colors, such as dark blue and red, or
mauve and cream, is extremely smart.
1t will furnish very natty dresses when
trimmed with velvet and embroidery Or
more novel still, with the metallic en-
broidery.
1t has also come to pass that linen
dresses are very fashionable. These are
trimmed with incrustations of guipure
over a transparent lining of contrasting
colored silks. I notice that with the ecru
or ripe corn-colored linen. Nile graeen.
pale blue or deep rose color look extreme
ly well. The waist and collar band should
be tied with similar colored taffetas
glace.
A novel feature of the tailor-made cos
tunes this spring isa smart little Zouave
jacket worn over a fancy silk blouse
or perfectly fitting waistcoat. These
Zouaves are cut in several ways, but
the newest is very tight fitting, and the
front pieces are cut in slanting points.
| They are edged with fancy inch-wide
| braid, the sleeves and collar being orna-
mented to match. Another style has
| very wide revers of contrasting colored
cloth, elaborately braided with an inch
| wide band of velvet. This latter looks
very well indeed, and corresponding
| trimming on the pockets of the ekirt Is
| an improvement. A smart Zouave jack
ct has collars, cuffs and the deep wide
point reaching to the waist, both back
and front, of white cloth, braided
with blue, the rest of the jacket
being OF royal blue cloth. Another pret-
| ty Zouave jacket forms a part of cy-
cling suit. The material is of cinnamon
cloth of light make. This is not unlike
the Elton jacket. and shows the neat
white cloth waistcoat with its close-set
hue Of gilt stud buttons.
| All the new walking skirts are lined
with new material called moirette. It
comes in all colors, from palest to dark
est shades. Another new feature is the
beautiful fancy checked silks in all col
ors for coat and jacket Innings. being
tastefully chosen to correspond with the
tone of the material. A very new materi-
al consists of striped Venetian cloth, the
stripes being only a broad stripe of col
or such as chocolate, with a heliotrope
line, a dark green with the light, or roy
| al blue with black. The face cloths are in
new shades, with sort of granite effect.
| Then there are tweeds, with dimly
marked checks in various colors, and
some light cashmere cloth for travelling
or cool summer wear. in every grade of
color from dark to light. These latter
are to take the place of the alpacas of
last season. There are some pretty
white and colored brocaded piques for
summer waistcoats, as we'll as some
warmer tweeds.
The modistes say that the "Jupe So
| leil," or sun pleated skirt. will be all
the rage the coming season. 1t is re-
| lief to know, however, that no pattern
whatever is required for this expanding
style. AS matter of fact, this skirt
| is an old friend which was introduced
at the same time as ACCORDION pleating.
of which it is a clever adaptation. No
one liked it at first, and it has been for
gotten by the public. but since then the
original diagram of the invention, show
| ing a circle of radiating lines on Z
square, with plain space in the center,
has remained in the mind of the mo-
diste. A medium sized skirt made in
| this fashion takes length of material
of about two and five-sixths yards by
two and six-sevenths yards. folded into
an exact square. 1t is almost instan-
taneously streaked with formal and ta-
pering stripes by means Of special ac-
cordeon pleating machine heated either
| by gas or steam, and thus describes the
ribbed circle of a wheel compared to
the rays of the sun. When this press
ing has been satisfactorily accom-
is cut off from the waist OPEN
| ing Each corner of the square
is gently rounded and then the work.
l&1., f,cr yov, hod ia
| is passed on and carefully mounted
This sort of pleating is utilized for prin-
cess gowns, long wraps and bodices.
ACCORDION pleating will be more than
ever in vogue this spring and the COM
ing summer.
"A great many materials covered with
rich embroidery are being prepared for
the fronts of skirts and for dress trim
mings generally. Guipure worked in
colored cotton will be much used and
many of the transparent grass cloths
with pretty pompadour bouquets will
add their quota to dress ornamentation.
| Accordion pleating lisses are to be
plentifully employed as cascades
| on the skirts and bodices, and coarse
white canvases of various kinds work.
ed in the faded colorings of long ago
cannot fail to be greatly in demand
| as fiounces, boleros and other trim
mings. There is beautiful range OF
trimming work in paillettes. which
closely resemble the beetlewing gar
nishes, and black sequIns laid closely
over one another, and black and steel
trimming play an all-important part
in the shape Of bodice trimmings ana
boleros, which are almost universally
| used. The dressmaker has really only
to decide what form her trimming win
take, and she will find 1t already to
her hand.
The season will witness what to most
people seems return to very an
cient custom, the wearing Of . watch
charm, with two inches or so Of chain
that carries the watch OF course all
the old favorites that are supposed to
bring happiness and good fortune to the
} wearer will be popular. Others, how
ever, and these are in the majority.
are purely fantastic and irrelevant.
Among them are a tiny chicken mod-
eled in gold upon a platinum dustpans
a donkey kicking q turquoise foothoN
and many others are Noticed.
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