New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-01-24
FUR REdGNS IN PARIS.
FAVORITE TRIMMING, EVEN FOR GOWNS
ON SPRING MODELS
EFFECTIVE USE OF SABLE AND BLACK KID-PIAIN
SKIRTS IN FAvoR-CREATIONs OF
THE MILllNER.


modste effected now with, ar eye to the early
spring season. there is still lavishness of fur dis
played in trimming for gowns that are intended to
he worn without wrap with only a
small col or shoulder cape.
The Paris winter Is short one, and when the
daylight begins to lengthon wraps begin to
shorten. Before long there will be days when they
may be dispensed with entirely to display a heavy
fur-trimmed cloth costume. with close-ftted bod
ice and habit-lke skirts. There indications of
these severe lines already. as the following descrip-
;ons Of some late designs will show:
One is OF navy blue serge. with trimming on
the skirt row of sable. headed by narrow
fold of black kid, embroidered wi,h small gold
heads and Daillates. The skirt is tight and close
fitting that instead of being passed over the head
il fastens. apron fashion, down the back seam
The round bodice is fitted to the figure. showing
only few Fuckers in front, that drawn down
under two fancy pearl buttons placed at the waist
line each side OF the vest. The basque shows
only under-arm seams. the stuff being drawn over
q fitted lining and is finished 10 he worn without
belt deep circular collar mat forms short rvvers
70 the bust is added 10 the basque. and Is edged
with fur and embroidered kid Dark red cloth
makes the narrow vest and short yoke between the
collar and choxer. The choker t. also of red, but
almost covered by the fur edging II and the little
bunch of sable tails behind each ear
more elaborate street costume is OF tabac
brown CLOTH trimmed with zibene fur and
frightened by sprnkling Of paillettes and beads.
The gown cut princess fashion and perfectly fit
ting. the embroidery almost covering the bodice
and extending down the sides Of the skirt A lire
OF fur edges the choker and another line outlines
pointed yoke. From this yoke hangs a deep cape
IKE collar that is part of the gown and yet sug
gess an extra wrap. This little cape reaches hardly
the elbows fastens invsiby so there is no open
Ing shown, and is trimmed by the embroidery and
edged with fur. There is more fur about the bot
tom Of the skirt. This costume, of course. is only
10 be worn on the street. In these two gowns de-
scribed the sleeves perfectly tight and plain
with only the smallest amount Of drapery at the
top.
OPPOSITION TO TIGHT SLEEVES
The ccuturieres here say that their American
customers have not taken kindly to small
sleeve and close skirt the French models
show. and that most of the gowns exported have
been extremely moderate IN these respects. As
Americans are supposed to eagerly demand the
treme of any mode. IL is gratifying to hear that
they reluctant TO give dp a becoming fashion.
Only recently fashionable painter of woman's por-
traits bemoaned the dminution Of the sleeves worn
by his sitters His theory seemed be that the
big sleeves make tiny woman dignifed. and a
pretty woman OF the right size only prettier. by
giving becoming frame 70 the face; but. alas the
large sleeve to-day in Paris is only memory and
there il little need to speak of 1t in discussing the
modes for the coming months
Some attractive cloth and wool gowns are shown
designed for the next few months One of a felt
like cloth in olive green. is trimmed with the same
Kind of cloth in lighter shade. glossy black cara
Guile. and jet. About the hem of the skirt bias
fsds of The two shades Of green edged by racery
exception Of narrow vest. covered by caracue
daon Of the light green emu corh Two little t tabs S"t Of
ne same cloth. trimmed with jet and fur. hang
of the bodice. The choker and narrow line of vest
a He of no liQnfe clO
very pretty fancy. The under rufe is tetted. and
the tabs are outlined by tiny edge of fur
A PLAIN SKIRT
An odd wool. with black furry surface woven
on foundation OF red makes a perfectly plain
skirt. lined and showing dust rufles Of crisp red
silk The front OF the bodice is covered by an en-
placement OF red cloth made In several parts
each being embroidered with jet and edged with
black caracule. Where the two sides Of the en-
placement NEE; in front they blouse a trife
otherwise the bodice fits the figure Side pieces OF
the cloth. edged with fur. come from the back
over the shoulders and button onto the front part
with wit large JET buttons The back Of he choker is
making stin little pointed ends that stand up be-
For those who do not care for the plain skirts a
gown or ecru cloth may suggest good model !
ell about the waist with the exception Of space |
OF about five inches In the back. The bodice has |
at the waist. and the sleeves are tucked at the
very top. the fulness that escapes making the top
rate vest Of yellow lace and white crepe. mounted |
over white satin. with square bow Of tcru satin |
Sc soft band of the same ribbon. combining lot |
Of crepe and lace RULES. and tying in a square !
are edged with sable. with embroidery of a |
white satin pattern. and gold threads and beads
sides blouse trihe. and are cut 10 fasten in 1
at the waist and then form small tabs down on |
the skirt. The skirt Is trimmed about the bottom |
with fur and an an embroidery matching that used
under these tabs and makes large bow behind.
Among some silk house dresses shown is a prin- |
brodery Of silver spanges on White nS, som i f,n
with lace figures that trim the front Of ne waist.
ask ,Is m 6o saends DOWN on the ssr about
the bodice to the little woke of heavy lace mounted
revers covered by en- embi oidery Of lace and sill
and at the bust. between the rcvcrs is an |
gown is laced in the back under .he ennbroidarv "
apparently showing no Fastening, and its odd effect
Is increased by the short draped sleeves that barely
reach the elbows
a PRETTY BELT EFFECT
There is a pretty belt effect shown on gown Of
fancy black and cerise silk The skirt IS trimmed
with several rows 81 rufes edged with a
ruching of black net that arranged to form
shallow points or the skirt. The bodice has a
Jetted yoke Of cerisc velvet; with blouse front OF
black me-, The belt ! q the s.sd bright ysys
emphasizing the curve 81 the waist
n @ Mat ss sprnp psa5 M nsw
though some plain straws are being made fancy
not only for foundations. but for trimming with
Tsbs sI IKE loops Ssa apa sira s pompons ,r M
81 ihe frns mes real n9sey I'm IN the ew way
while the yioet color is conspicuous. more large
Violet poppes are used than Nole,s. These large. |
tho shape and character OF mos; of the forms in
vogue.
4 ha. ,ha, remains in ones memory is an antique