Evening journal., 1897-11-04
Fos uP.To.pArE WOVEN.
Cutting Down the Sleeves of Last
Years shirt Waists

Years shirt Waists.
The up.to-date woman with her mod
crate income has been struggling with
her last summers wardrobe and has
emerged triumphantly. but exhausted.
after some excessively disagreeablc
hours. To cut the collar eft last years
shirt waist, make a buttonhole in the
collar band and wear the latest collar
and tie is an easy matter. But when 1t
comes to ripping out starched sleeve
and taking Off n starched cuff, life as
sumes a serious aspect. 1t must be
done. however. IL one would be strictly
en- regle. The shirt waist sleeve is cut
In one piece, and after taking II out
has been accomplished, it is easy to cut
It Off at the top and little at the sides.
taking care to slope it properly and
10 make IL no smaller at the cuff end.
Then it must be tucked into the cuff
with three tucks instead of being gath
cred. The difficult matter Of putting
the cuff on comes next. and IL is wiser
TO soak the starch cut of this obstreper-
Gus piece of linen before attempting IT,.
When all this is accomplished the waist
may be worn with proud conscious
ness on the part of the wearer that she
Is not behind the timSs.
There is no article 81 dress which
requires more attention than the shirt
waist, If one does not wish 10 look like
dowdy. The ordinary dumpy gar
ment, with untidy belt and vague tie,
is enough to make the smart woman
forever forswear this most useful gar
mcnt Properly made and worn, how
ever, they are delight, and give a look
of trimness and neatness TO most
women.
This year shirt waists are made Of
thinner material. Organdies, lawns
and dimitlcs vie in favor with each 9TH
er. The detachable collar of white
linen is worn in almost every case, and
the favorite tie is of black satin, tied by
the wearer, as the edict against made
ties for women was issued some time
ago. This black satin tie Is a com
plicated affair, and IL must go twice
around the collar before tying. Satin
ribbon, double faced and an inch and
three quarters wide will be found more
satisfactory than the made tie, and not
as expensive.
With the ned Roman-strip silk shirt
waists a piece of the material is made
into scarf and worn as a four-in.
hand. With shirt waists of washabl,
material tie TO match'the ribbon IN
the hat is oftenworn. Weare going bacl
90 the old days Of matching things" il
spite of the glaring combinations W,
meet on the streets.
The hunting stock is much in favor
for bicycling, golf or travelling wear
AS ordinarily tied 1t gives the neck az
unfinished look. But an English won
an assures me that carefully and neat
ly tied they can be so worn that the alb
sence of n stiff linen collar is not de
tected.
The favorite collar is very high, with
narrow band turned over at the top
This band does not meet in the back
There are cuffs TO match these collars
and many of the shirt waists are mad
with detachable cuffs, but a still NOR
chic looking effect is TO have cuffs o
the same material as the waist, nc
stnrched, but soft and turned bac
carelessly This is particularly fetch
ing effect in dimity.
The daintiest collars are a modifica
tion Of the round, embroidered one
worn last winter over the necls OF win
ter gowns. This spring they have a sof
band of lawn TO go inside the dress o
ribbon collar, outside there are two mar
row pieces of embroidered null, like tn
turned-over linen collars, but so muc
softer and more feminine. They are de
signed TO be worn over high, plain ril
bon collars or stocks, having q SINAI
made bow in front All bows. by IN
way, have shifted from the back o
the collar TO the front Of il.
Another fetching collar and exceed
ingly smart, also, is a narrow knit
plating of lawn falling over the stoc
or high collar. This is finished by al
enormous bow of null, with knife-plaii
cd ends, which take up large part q
the front of the chest.
Narrow girdles of silver or gold link!
studded with precious stones, are of
en- worn with silk waists. but the col
Ton shirt waists should have a plai
leather belt, either white or-of leWhe
colored TO match the gown.-Washinl
ton Star.
Il
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