The record-union., 1897-12-05

SACRAMENTO DAILY
with their pretty belt-ribbons or soft
dIrectoire sashes wound twice around
! the waist. There also appear many
pretty waists with circular BASQUE ef-
fectS, With short crenellated or van
dyked skirts, with position backs, or
Russian blouse backs and ooen jacket
fronts. English cutaways with fitted
Waistcoats, elongated Etons with Fe-
dora vests, are also to be seen, and so
on ad libitum. There seems to be an IN
| evitable rule, in obedience to which the
short, dumpy woman passes by the trim
jacket with fiat band trimmings, grad
ually narrowing as they near the waist
| line. that give her length and look OF
! slend erneSs, and seizas the bafrilled cape
that has bison-iike effect when donneo.
! Or she selects a short, round jacket,
With trimming set on horizontally, aCds
wide belt to her waist, While her little
pancake bonnet has full trimmings set
al each side of her round head. That
the wide folded girdle, the gathered pre-
telle, the straight box pleat frilled at the
edge, the blouse, and the yoke waist,
with much fullness below, very percep-
tibly shorten the figure of the tall Wo-
man. and that the V-shaDed vestures
and perpendicular effects of every sort
elongate the short one, should always be
kept in mind no matter what the Vafl-
Gus chances and changes offashlon may
be. or however becoming certain styles
may prove to those women who are SO
finely proportioned that almost any and
every fashion introduced may be fol-
lowed by them.
Among other high-class novelties now
to be had for the enhancing of evening
toilets are lovely lace and net fichus with
sash ends varously trimmed, point ap-
plique scarfs, and collarettes in combi-
| nation Then there are the new twice
around Empire ties, with graduated
tucks and broad pleated ends; the Duse
bow of silk mousseline- brillante fas-
! tened to an accordian oleated coliar,
headed with insertion and edged with
lace; four-in- hand jabots of Venice OF
Valenciennes lace, and countless othel
neck and bodice fancies in net, tulle,
silk. chiffon and lace, especially provided
for theater wear, ball toilets. FOR brides
maids, debutantes and for matrons ol
every ace.
Trimmed skirts are multiplying III
numbers daily, and the liking for them
| begins to increase in proportion. AS ye'
| there has appeared none of the former
intricacies in the adjus ment of arrange
ment of the decorations. as they simply
| include fiat gimDs, braidlng, bands OF
silk cord applique, resembling either EN-
broidery or braidwork in their designs
small ruches, lines of narrow velvet RIB
bon fur edgings, silk-Woven medal
lions or Vandykes. milliner's folds,
beaded ornaments and stitched bands
| each and all appear as decorations OF
the front, sides and around the hens
of new dress skirts for the winter
1t is certain, however. that no matter
how elaborately the toilets Of ceremony
or how tastefully the handsome deml-
dress or house gowns may be trimmed,
all suDerfiuous garnitures will be kept
from the stylish and useful tailor gown.
On French models are noticed many at
| tractive and charming little additions to
| the bodice, with likewise fanciful
] touches to the sleeves, but the general
effect of a smart, elegant tailor-gown
remains, as in the initial season of its
vogue, simple. perfectly fitted, perfect
| ly hung model complete in every detail,
and bearing the unmistakable impress
of a master hand in its entire construc-
ton and finish.
The beautiful tea-rose tints in pink
and yellow will be highly favored for
elegant evening toilets in spite of the
craze for vivid coloring so general both
here and abroad. These more refined
tints appear among the lovely diaphan-
Gus textiles, and also the heavy bro
cades, satins, repped and glace silks, and
sheer woods. The lighter, daintier dyes
appear side by side with the deeper
colors. jonquil. maize, etc, and even
orange is in evidence among the new
yelIews; and Jasque, damask, rose. ger
&nium and carnation will rival the soft
er canary. honeysuckle and lemon tints
| in yellow.
Again have the hardy Scotch tweeds
a favored place among the popular tex
/ tiles of the season. They are much used
/
tunes. Some of the designs in silk and
wool mixtures are very handsome,
showing fine rich melange of heather
coiors glinting here and there with
threads of red and russet. The durabil-
ity of these goods is so well known that
il is unnecessary to further sound their
praises. but merely to say that for gen
| eral utility uses they rank well with
| the wear-defying English cheviots and
the pretty waterproof cravenettes
Corded silks and repped woods, vel
vets. and silk and wool mixtures, in
both large and small ribs, viii be in
/ high vogue all winter in the making
| of handsome gowns, entire street cos
| tunes. and elegant fur-trimmed gar
ments in short, medium and redingote
| lengths.
A charming study in green is a Par
| is model for an autumn travelling cos
| tune, made of ladies' cloth OF a dark
reseda shade. The jacket has a short,
natty back. and opens with square Rus
| sian fronts over very closely fitting
vest of soft gray cloth crossed la
Breton, with green and gold gimp. The
close coat sleeves are banded with this
| trimming with only a Hungarian cap
at the top decorated with the braid.
The gored skirt opens up the left side,
showing a simulated petticoat that
matches the vest. To complete this
costume is a tailor-made cloth cape
lined with Roman plaid, and finished
with very high "Klondike" collar of
| darkest mink.