The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-04-01

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ing efforts in those directions which
ought to be employed in the solution OF
matters nearer home. Women can solve
this domestic problem if they viii. But
they must get together and work unitedly
If they do I venture to say that in a year
or two there will be no suck thing as the
~servant-girl problem, for it will have beer
solved"
When cur New Woman Is not proposing
to herself and her readers a reversion
to the ancient system of ~polyandry con
which consult McLennan. Westermarck
Morgan and Bachofen), she is apt to dis
dain and shrink from the atrocfous and
oppressive male sex. says Andrew Lang
in the North American Review" She
is not so New but that Mrs. Mary Astell
was before her. in 1709. Mrs. Mary 'spro-
posed a sort of female college, in which
ladies nauseating the parade of the
world might find "a happy retirement. 2
Queen Anne meant to endow this estab-
iishn1ent, but Bishop Burnet persuaded
her that it savored of Popery. Sir Wal
ter Scott who had nothing New about
him) speaks of Mrs Mary as a Precieuse,
who is anxious to confound the bound
aries which nature has liked for the en-
pigments and studies of the two sexes.
Swift laughed at Mrs. Mary in the Tat
ler'' (No. xXXII.. But the New woman
who spurns the degrading coarseness of
matrimory mas closer patterns in Mo
Heres Cathos and Madelon Les Preci-
euses R~idicules, 1850. These aides express
themselves with such virtuous freedom
that r could not quote them unless l were
a New lady novelist. writing in a new
Key-Hole Series. The student is, there
fore, b~lushingly referred to the original
drama by the u~nprincipled Poquelin. For
Moliere, too, had nothing New about
him; he laughed at these original deli
cacies of sentiment.
The New young lady in society is re-
marked for the generous breadth of her
language and the large frolic of her wit.
But, alas. even this is not so very new.
In the correspondence of Lady Suffolk
Q714-17e0), we find the maids of honor,
led by the Oldest n most prudish, Miss
Meadows, larking about on a winter
night, outside Kensington Palace, knock
ing on the panes and throwing open the
windows of the inmates. Nothing can be
more in the modern taste. 1 read in
d pGTlOQlCdl utfOIcQ " II
needs of women, The Lady's Realm"
that the most popular and most justly
popular lady in England excels in the
confection of apple. Pie Beds" | don't
believe it, of course. but this news is of
the kind that women love.
80
The choice of a color for a gown or
ribbon is more important h is gem
orally assumed.
In looking over an assemblage of ex-
pensively dressed women recently it was
noticed that a very small percentage
wore the colors which suited them. A
woman reads or is told that shades OF
magenta or tints of green are fashionably
worn, and she forthwith selects them.
often with most trying results to her good
looks.
Colors matching the hair tint in some
shade are safe. A red haired woman,
one with the bronze red hair, looks her
best in sables and reddish browns; a
golden haired blonde with blue eyes
should select a gown of some shade OF
her hair with a bit of her eye blue at
her throat. This intensifying the color
of the eye a throat bow of its pre-
dominating shade, is a hint to be re-
membered, particularly by women whose
eyes nave lost some of the youthful
depths of color.
Edmund Russell gives his formula for
artistic dressing to be match the hair
as nearly as possible for day and the
eyes for evening wear rench women,
it may be added, wear white in the even
ing. after 40, almost invariably.
80
Among the recent fashionable REVEALS
noted in the English journals is that
Of the Duchess d-'Angouleme couture,
which attained so tremendous a vogue
in the early part of the century, when
the lovely duchess was exiled to Eng
land.
Seldom have end-of-the-century wom-
en- encountered a fashion that was more
difficult to revive. 1t is probably the
most complicated method of hair-dress-
ing that prevails today, but perhaps for
that reason it is likely to be the most
popular. To accomplish it bunch the
hair up straight from the nap of the
neck. firmly tie it on top of the head and
then arrange it to initiate bows.
There must be a parting from ear to
ear, but it must not be far back from
the forehead. All the hair behind this
division should be brushed back and tied
together with the back hair. The front
hair has a central parting. There is an
arrangement of short curls brought into
a bunch at each side by means of a side
comb, or there may be a group Of
coques to right and left of the parting.
These coques were originally called
comb curls,' because they were not al
lowed to fall, but were stiffly arranged
and held in place by small combs or
hairpins.
A very taking style of couture is that
in which several curls are caught up
loosely at the pack of the head and hang
from a gathered knot of hair on the
crown.
This may be excessively pretty and
stylish, or it may be old maidish and
prim. 1t all depends upon the length
and degree of the curl. If it is very
short n wavy, rather tina twisted, it
will look modish and cute. If it is quite
long and curls hard it will look like
nothing SO much as a country school
teachers favorite hair dressing.
It is not an easy matter to have the
hair In precisely the right state of curl
since 1t must almost invariably be arti-
fcially done. but it is requisite to a nice
effect. Not more than two or three such
love-locks should be essayed for any one