The San Francisco call., 1897-10-10

vor, is largely usei in the EN- belhshment
OF clasps and chatelaine purses, set in
the center and contrasting effectively
with the shading that is peculiar to
oxidized gold. Amethysts as ring
stones have had their day. Their
color does not harmonic with other
stones now in feminine favor for hand
adornment, but thew serve with handsome
effect elsewhere. Women of tawny COM
piexion should beware of placing them
near the skin; they are meant for the
blonde ana are not becoming to the bru-
nette.
Apropos of complexIons. 1 think they
play game of their own with woman's
destiny. OF paramount importance is
clear, healthy skin. The two prime neces-
stiles for acquiring this ad djunct to beauty
are obtainable by every woman in the
land, unless indeed she happens 10 be
struggling toward the Klondike with
baggage lost in the Arctic shuttle, pocket
less bloomers and an berg for bed.
These essentials 10 skin perfection are:
Soap.
Sleep.
Then see to it that you have an abund-
ance OF each, and don't undo the miracle
that they have wrought with your cuticle
by indulging your appetite for sweets in
either edible or drinkable form. Remem-
Der that wine is mocker OF good looks,
and that strong drink is raging foe to
the texture and tirmness of your precious
epidermis
This advise is not new, butit is the kind
OF gospel that you and l and all the rest
OF the petticoated half of humanity should
nave preached to us until We practice it
the gospel OF cleanliness and rest.
One of the girls in society here whom
delight in feastlne mine eyes npon has a
dream of a com plexion-all lilies and
roses Of satiny smoothness. And why
not? She is tucked within her neglige
every afternoon and sleeps between
couch-covers for a good hour, and her
best friend couldn't bribe her maid TO
awaken her during those sixty precious
minutes, which take six wears from her
age with magic sureness, for at noon she
looks her twenty-four summers at night
she has recorded but eighteen of them.
"Shirt waists gravely declareth a
fashion prophet from the Gotham perch
of authority, "hold their own" To be
sure, TO be sure-when a masculine arm
isn't relieving them of that duty.
The shirt waist is thing of utility; it
may be wrought into thing of beauty; it
is Joy forever. To be emancipated from
the stufty upholstery of tightly cIinging
bodices into the freedom of this sensible,
restful garment is indeed Joy unspeaka BILE
10 the weary wearer, who b,esses its ex-
istence when she exchanges it for the
whaleboDed article in which she has been
stlftiy sausaged for the street. While silken
and other materials are replacing washable
goods, the thinner waists of the past sea-
son are not yet off duty for the year. San
Francisco has way of reserving a few hot
days for October distribution-left- overs
of the summer, as it were-and one must
be prepared for such vagaries. 1t is a mis-
take, though, to have ones shirt waists
starched until they are less piiable than
bar of railroad iron. Freshness does not
depend upon the quantity of starch used,
but upon the care and frequency with
which the N q terial is laundered.
l hail with approval the appearance of
corduroy amid the dry goods aspirants
to shirt waist favor. Corduroy is becom-
ing to the complexion. softening its color
or heightening it according to the shade
chosen, while for economy it has no
equal. Cloth and wool plalds, velveteens
and silks are to be chiefly worn, the pop-
uIar trimmings being tucks of the same,
lengthwise. diagonal or bias, and fine
fril!ings; while for decorative purposes
velvet ribbons will be largely used, also
soutache and other braids, small metal
buttons and fancy gimps While the COL
ors are countless, l predict that plaids
particularly in silk, will prevail. They
are effective with plain wool skirts and
extremely becoming to slender figures
while those of too generous girth have a
choice of plain browns, reds, navy blues,
greens and blacks. Satin waists are
modish, and should have studs instead of
buttons on the cuffs and fronts. Linen
collars will be worn by those who prefer
them, but the removable stock is likely 10
be adopted almost entirely, it being less
trying to ones style. She mus. be very
sure of her facial outlines who does affect
linen collar.
Blocks and checks. modified forms of
the plaid designs, also stripes, are correct
for waist wear. A yoke and pleated back
are the invariable rule. Plaids, however
olO " III iiOt OfoE -BOOuS COuUISTS TO
the shoulders of womankind this winter
and no one must be without some sort of
plaid, unless it be her fate to be fat. Tie
stout woman must bant vigorously if she
would gown herself in plaid. She will be
sorely tempted by the infinite varieties
suitable for house and street wear, while
ribbons. wraps, hat trim mings and even
chenilles are beginning to plaid the hori-
zon.
Despair is destined to overtake the
short-statured woman who makes up in
bread tn what she lacks in height, for the
winter coat is to be half length, and to
don it means 10 be grotesque. Bones are
certainly having their inning these DAYS.
Safely concealed beneath bewiIdering
plaids and misleading outer garb the
scrawniest of the sex may deIude the
gazer as to her avoirdupois without re-
course to uncomfortable padding.
Then, too, jackets have jumped from
Quaker plainness to elaborate trim miugs
and the shorter garments are quite as i'm.
possible for Nine. Embonpoint as are the