davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-06-24

Miss Katherine Ross will leave shortl
to spend the summer with friends in Gran
Rapids, Mich.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-06-24
!,

KANSAS CITY, Mo, June "a
Temperature observation-disclosures. 96;
, minimum. So
!. To-day We look for the weather TO be
. fair and warm
The times., 1897-10-31

carry medium length black silk umbrellas
that have stout hrowI-bamboo handles,
with smelling bottle top heads. These
are flat heads OF gold or silver, prcttily
decorated with raised flowers in miniature.
There has no end been found as far as
the making of shell hair ornaments. The
number Of combs allow ed in one feminine
bead increases daily, and for evening useall
are decorated With brillIants. The palest
blonde snelii regarded as far more modish
than the handsmest pieces set from
tortoise back. Blonde shell combs are
treated with pearl and turquoise beading,
and rivals OF the still loveiymercury wings
are combs topped with outspread bats
wings,
Even the little boys, in their corduroy
school suits testify TO our love for Russian
fashions. They, too, wear the blouse.
slightly full trousers, aiIa Russiannilitary
service cap, but the eagle on the visor is
an American bird, and with this graceful
and comfortable suit is Worn corduroy
leggins of the English hostler shape, that
he c;in take off when indoors TO display
his highlacedbrowns shoesand rough Scotch
stockings. n
The times., 1897-10-31

fas.lIons during the coming season. II ne
makes mistake, the fruits OF his error afe
not visited upon him alone, but upon the
whole community as well. So long as
the natives remain at home and 90 not
go outside their own particular hamlet,
there is no harm done. But when they
essay to go TO the city in their finery they
find themselves conspicuous in a species
OF garD v hich failed to impress the city
folks with limitless market dt their
elbows. This has been the result In the
case OF those felt sailor hats in bright
colors. In the city they did not take ut
all, because there Were other things that
outshone Lhem-in good taste, il not in
brilliancy. In certain districts of Ohio,
not far from the homestead Of President
Mckinley, the country fairly glows with
brilliant headgear Of the character de-
scribed. Bright red, patriotic blue, and
even yellow, rival the tinted foliage that
BOW covers the hills in the most picturesque
region or Ohio. Perhaps it is the beauty
of The scenery which spurs the inhabitants
TO emuiation-perhaps it is the bad taste
OF their milliner, but in any case the result
is To be deplored.
The times., 1897-10-31
WOMEN BUYERS.
Nearly One Thousand Employed as
Rnrcl,n irsfr rants

Nearly One Thousand Employed as
Purchasing Agents.
New York, Oct. 30-7A certain little cloth
covered volume. published during tile pres
ent year, contains list Of names signifi-
cant lG the great retail trade of the coun
try, the names of the buyers who select
and purchase goods for various firms in all
parts of the Union There arc over 700
wonelfs names registered in this list, and
those able to judge state that there are
fully goo other women buyers whose naIres
are merely set down rs s. Brown or {.
Jones, without the distinguishing prefix OF
Miss o. Mrs.
You can depend upon 1t that whenever
you FIND woman occup ying tie position OF
buyer tt Is because she is exceptionally
qualified for it" said the manager OF d
big department. store. The post Of buyer
is too responsible, too closely allied with
the heart Of the business, to be bestowed
lightly" SO, with this surety 10 go by.
il is s0fe to infer that there are between
500 aud ,0G0 women in the United States
possessed OF xceptiCnal business capacity
and putting their talents in that line To
every na V use.
There ale at least go per cent more
women buyers in the trade now Than
there Were six years ago" this au-
tharity added. The reason? Wed, be
cause even considcrate merchants are
beginning 10 have confidence in WON
ems judgment, and there is such ample
proof day after cay of their ability that
ONLY preiudieed men flout at it. From
the time that women first entered the
stores at all. even as saleswomen, their
taste and Intuition for style their abilI
Is to Seleot. sas noticed. tie only thing that
held them back FROM the highest position :
and holds them back now, in some houses,
WAS tie fear that hey could not be trusted
with money, could not lie relied On 10 make
1udicions investments. Many women are
Incapable in ihis respect but most of these
The times., 1897-10-31
The FIRST Pullman Car.

No single thing has contributed more
To the comfort Of modern life than the Pull
man car. It's Inventor, g Gorge N Pullman.
worked out the details or his invention
IN 1859. Il 1864 be carried his idea to
Chicago and employed u master caTbuuder
Of the Alton road at a salary Of S1OO &
month 10 superintend the construction
0f model car The inventor was de-
terlGined tnat IL should be the hantlsomesi
car in ali respects that had ever been mada
in the cOJntry. He went 70 New York and
there happened To meet the artist VINO had
Just decorated the house OF Samuel ].
Tiidep. He at once closed with this artist
took him West, and set him al WORK decor
ating the car. When the ''Pioneer" waI
finished ii had cost the extraordinary sun
OF 81 5000, large price, even nov, HoI
a sleeping car. 1t was wonder toevery.
hodv. II was just as Mr. Pullman had
expected. The beauty or the finish and
the narieloUs innovation he had made
We're advertised Tar and near by the
newspapers and by railroad men and sous
Of the latter began TO believe that the
idcas OF the inventor. after all, Were prao
ticable.
The Pioneer was in progress Of build.
liAS ANt q " HAlE AEdls 4 ne dSSdSSlIldT TiOf
or Lincoln occurring at this time, il wassug.
gested that tie Pioneer be used in tht
funeral train, and il asrun from Spring
field to Chicago on tie Alton road. Al
had been predicted when the car was built,
it was too wide to ruu on the roads as ther
constructed. II was necessary for the
Alton road To send along its line and cut of
the platforms that projected, and to make
numerous changes at stations so that tht
Car, with its width OF an additional foot
could pass. Thus the railroads had n
make way for the improvements that tht
convenience of the travelling public de
manded. Everywhere the beauty OF thu
Pioneer was talked of, and it was not
stIsnge that soon after, when Gen. Gran
came home, the use OF the car was asketfto
convey the great hero from Detroit te
tlaiena. The Michigan Central Ia Iroat
was Compelled to do precisely what tn,
Alton road did cut its platforms and n
other ways make way for the ar-and from
this time on tie railroads prepared theua
selves for the new palace car,
The times., 1897-10-31

front two rows of painted porcelain Tut
tons are fastened, and over them narrow
ribbons lace and tie.
More practical, and yetexceedingly2r pretty.
are the half shoes for dancing, with patent
leather vamps, tops of back silk or satin,
and wide scarlet ribbon lace, tying in bjg
bows over the instep. Young ladies' with
stern prejudiccs proudly display, as they
dance, their half shoes laced with pr;n. e.
ton yellow ribbons, or have their oxford
ties made of Yale blue satin, and laced
with ribbons 10 match At a swirl Of the
petticoats it is easy to see they are wearing
as well Yale blue stockings, while the sd
nirer OF Princeton satisfies her feelings
in hosiery of bright black and yellow piaid.
So studiously neglected are slippers this
autumn that shGemakers have decided tu
let Wei enough alone and offer only the
conventional French heel and pointed toe
chiefly in bronze Kid to those W no cling
70 this type of evening shoe. A satin bow
with three wings or loops curvIng rather
high onto the foot, give this slipper the
title Princess of Wales, and is earning
for it considerable popularity. All the
black satin slippers are profusely decorated
with jet heads, and in place OF white or
eolored satin slippers, white cream and
tinted suede seem to be materials most
used with delicate evening dresses.
Above the feet OF the well-slod WON en
rustic flutes and flouncings of silkcn petit
coats il possible more elaborate than we
have ever seen before. 1t Seems almost
criminal extravaganza and selfishness .or
women 10 hide such Glones of silk nd
lace and lovely design in decoration und Z r
sober cloth, or the very much palmer SILK
and satin top skirts. Yet, after all, the
owners of these adorable under tlraparias
are not III quite such hopeless spendthrifts
One remarkable pretty skirt, aud most
luxurious In appearance, wasall ma de, even
to the last stitch, by the fair hands OF the
weaver. Over green silk skirt. plain
and rather scant, that had served one en-
tire season as dress lining, she put to
gether ard let fan second and fuller
drapery made all of lengths OF three and
Dnehaif Inch wide taffeta Ibbon In
bright green and yellow plaid, inter
The times., 1897-10-31

they emit fool me on garment. They
have tried 10 pu2zleme sometimes by la ying
out 4 lct Of skins. all Of one sort, and insist
ing that one was better than the one /
preferred, but l have certain rules to go
by, and can tell the feel of fur, seldom
making a mistake. Ont of number Of
sealsNins, with no mark to identify them,
] can tell the exact kind of seal that each
skin came FROM. When took the position
of saleswoman in the fur department l
made up my mind that l would learn all
there 1cs TO know about the trade, al
though, OF course, / could have sold
stock without that Knowledge
This able buyer purchases evening wraps
and fur garments worth $500 and $500
apiece. She is responsible for $3.50, 0uo
worth of goods during season.
notable Illustration of the success of
the wonan buyer is the number Of thirty
ing businesses now conducted by women,
who made their capital in that Way, within
the past nine or ten years.
'I started with 81 500, saved from my
salary as a buyer In the suit department
at O. & G 's,'' said g self-made woman in
New York city Yesterday. II now do a
business o. q half million a year What
do l think of women buyers as contraste d
with men? | think those women who put
their minds on their business and don't look
upon i6 merely as make-tlo until they get
| married are as Shire gd practical buyers
and can make as good thing at the trade
as ncn.''
In Chicago, in New York, in Philadelphia
there are several instances of women who
have retired to life of comfortable ease
on the money made as buyers.
Il have this TO say OF one of my WON.
en- buyers, that when she came To me ten
| vs1rs eeo Taa he highest priced IL.
fant's Or child's cloak / could sell, and
today SEQ is no exceptional value for my
best goods in that line" said the pro,
prietor OF a fashionable store. This
woman has enterprise he added. when
l would hold hack about investments.
afraid that | was riskiDg too much. sire
would represent matters so plainly that
was encouraged TO venture. She keeps
herself iIi touch with our particular run
ct customers. she knows what they want
and what they are willing TO pay for if it
is procured for them. l unhesitatingly say
that size has made the cream of my tIa,ie
what it as today
When you can get woman's naturally
conservative and economical ideas, com
bined with enterprise, you fave an "a
number one buyer said he manager of
long established fonsc in a fashiona biz
shopping center. Il Rave had much ex-
peTienee in business, ard / Ierfer women
buyers fer all departments where taste
and very delicate ,liscrimina ton is neces-
sary Occasionally YOU see a woman buy
ing tDys' clothing successfully, bat she
succeeds lest where she can CRAFTY her
taste for variety.
Yoa never see = woman in thesuit depart
ment buying too many suits of one color
or tne style. She knows human nature
too We'll She knows that, no matter how
pretty, and desirable a garment may be
il Somehniy else has one exactly like il
its charm is lost. Last year, in a neighbor.
ine firni there was a man buyer who
crippled the entire misses department. bv
The times., 1897-10-31

spersed with bands OF rather coarse deep
yellow lace net At the region of the
knees clusters of closely pleated lace
were set betIy cen the ribbon bands and
falling out gave all the effect OF a full
ruffle ANY woman might, for The sake OF
little time and taste, go and do likewise,
suffering no great diminishment uf her
income at the same time.
This arrangement of lace and ribbon is
by the way one of the very newest capers
in petticoat making Really exquisite pet.
ticoats, to wear with dancing dresses, ire
made of any color of taffeta ribbon with
strips Of plain, finely tucked, or ac-
cordian pleated white muslin set in as 5he
Connecting link between every ribbon
length. Last year the printed taffeta skirts
showed ell their stripes running length
wise, but with the revival so lately of the
Roman scarfs. sashes, etc, tile stripes
in the under petticoats run every way but
up and down. A gain we have got back TO
pinking tie edges of nearly all these petit
coat ruffIes, fulling the flounces by laying
them in narrow. close set upstanding tucks.
in place of gathers and setting them, at
the waist line, on yokes that are trimmed
flat.
A model skirt of this most fanciful pat
tern is given in the sketch OF "a bedroorn
toilet" to demonstrate the above argu-
ment. Here the urderdress is of taffetas,
pure white, and decora ted only with mar
row pinked ruff!es. Above it fits blue
satin short skirt, cut in a series Of long
leaf points, ali edged with cream lace
eighteen inches deep. A bit of this lace
is laid over the yoke, and with this is
worn a dressing sacque of blue French
flannel, its pointed fulness edged with
underruffies OF blue silk, over which Ills
white lace. The sleeves hang free, but
the fun pack is caught and held in by two
sashes OF silk, brought round and knotted
in front.
The autumn showers have sent the sum-
Iuer sun-shades into packing trunks, and
it is good to see the new handsome winter
umbrellas unfurling. The smartest nov.
elites are the handles treated solidly or
Or natural wood, with dull red Burmah
gold; the large round sticks of green and
brown bamboo, with covers of silk to
match, and the umbrellas with purse 1T
| tachmehts. The purses are meant TO
hold car-fare only. and can be detached
/! from the handles, that, with few excep-
| tions, have convenient little chains or
| hoops, SO fastened as to permit of fhe
| umbrella being slung on one arm wien
not In use. The hoop takes the pretty 70 II
| of5enest of slender gold or silver ssr.
| pent, passing through eyelets in the hantsis
| AMI knotting his jeweled head around his
| jewel-uipped tail.
Persois who prefer elegant simplicity
The times., 1897-10-31

buyers we are speaking of have keen
business sense, are conservative, and yet
at the same time have enterprise enough
to 10y in 2 supply of novelties OF even
riskily high priced goods in order to keep
their department up to the m ark.
What salary can a woman buyer make
a year? For an exclusive house, where she
handles only a fine line of goods, she is
paid from $4,000 to $S, 900 year. Such
a buyer purchases the misses aud ladies'
suits direct from the factory where they
are made. Fine, well-cut, well l-put up suits,
of original design. She must not have too
many OF one size or pa attern, yet she must
have enough. she must know her line of
custom from a to z, aud know exactly how
much she can afford to pay apiece for
such goods in order to sell them at rea-
sonable profit. She must he able to judge
in moment, when newly designed article
Is shown her at the factory whether or
not the price asked for it is rea sonabIe.
She must know the wholesale price for
the velvet, silk or sa till that trims the gar
ment, alsc the price of the cloth it is made
of, the cost or the making, and so on, and
be able to calculate to a fraction inst
what profit She ought to allow the man.
ufacturer, To good buyer the manufac.
turer SHOWS his best and most unique bar
gains. If she is not liberal, wants to jew
him down to a close margin, or if she does
not buy enough to make it worth his while
TO cater to her tastes he shows her only
| his SLOW selling gooos, ard keeps the rest
back for more enterrrising custom.
How much does woman buyer for
such an Important department use during
| the year?' he asked.
II She is a good worker she turns her
stock money over two or three times.
Certainly she buys during the year from
100000 to 100000 worth of goods
| Such a buyer will have been in the business
| Certainly ten years or more, and have
| famiiarized herself witt every detail
| Occasionally bright, keeiiw witted woman,
learn the market and its possibilities and
! limitations in less than three years. tifne.
| Up to few seasons ago women buyers
| were employed principally in the women's
underwear and infants goods departments,
| or in the buying OF corsets and such articles
| exclusively feminine. Now women are
buying SHOES, umbrellas, jewelry, notions,
! leather goods and stationery, and a few,
| those of very excellent judgment, are in
trusted with the buying OF laces and furs.
| The fur department i'll one of the largest
houses in u Northwestern city is entirely
Controlled ~ d woman.
do you like to buy?" this young woman
| was asked, not long ago. 81 love it, She
answered. "I buy direct from the fac
tories. and the men say themselves that
The times., 1897-10-31
Cheap and Pretty.

There are many useful as we'll a s orna-
namentai objects that any woman can
make for the home; with the aid OF simple
tools inexpensive materials can easily be,
fa shioned into various articles that will
present a unique and attractive appearance
Mechanical skill and expert workmanship
are not always necessary to obtain good
results, and some very crude attempts are
sometimes surprisingly successful.
An idea for a picture frame is shown IN
the illustra ton, and although it may appear
rather a difficult affair to make, ii is IN
reality quite simple. If you have an oil
painting of medium size and desire to make 4
dainty frame for 1t, obtain flat gilt mold
ing strip about an inch wide and have a
frame maker miter it to fit about the
picture. or thin boards, four or five inches
wide, make a frame to fit about the outside
OF the gilt molding; rabbit can be cut
to insure a snug fitting.
On this frame, light colored denim crepe
cloth or other seryiceable goods of solid
color may be gathered and tackled fast as
shown in the illustration, or it may be
gathered on a stout string and attached
to the wood with liquid glue.
Only the edges should be caught both
edge thin strips should be fastened with
large, oralheaded upholstering tacks hav.
ing the hrass heads painted black. The
wood strips mdy be painted, or if they
are of hard wood they may be stained
/ and vanished.
For water cClors or etchings the cover
ing material may be of figured cretonne.
china silk or other pretty material in light
| colors. The shape and size OF u frame
! made in this manner depend, of course on
the dimensions of the picture to be framed.
| Some very charming little frames can
be made after this suggestion, and the
| goods, of figured or plain colorings, ma y
! he pasted directly to the surface OF the
| smooth wood face of the frame.
On small frames the binding, or outer
wood strip, may be omitted, and in place
of it gimp of silk tape glued fast to
serve the same purpose.
The times., 1897-10-31

considered more desirable materials Rather
ON "A venture the bootmakers, at the begin
ming OF the autumn, broughtout laced street
shoes OF what they described as rough sur
faced Russian goat skin. dyed a very lich
mahogany red. over the toes, insteps md
up the frouls they laid trimmings Of dull
black doHgola and SO soon did these find
purchasers that they have followed their
first inspiration by very dark brown shoes,
similarly trimmed, and by deco rating
severely plain black shoes with besvy
stitching in brown twIne threads.
Their worthy excuse for doing all this
is that by placing stitchings and leather
applications with cautious taste, a thick
ankle can be helped TO senderness OF ap-
pearance, a low instep arched, or width
over the bah robbed Of half its ugly ex-
tent. To such arguments no woman is
inpervious, Just as they are turning over,
with a curiosity not unmixed with inter.
est, the high-laced, corrugated soled, very
dark brown pigskin shoes for wear when
the streets are well coated with snow and
ice.
Perhaps not SO long as there are pretty
clothes 10 wear and smart occasions on
which to don them VIII women resign their
high heels. Nearly all dress shoes show
them now-true French heels, at that.
Undoubtedly the greatest novelty of this
sort TO be seen is the calling shoe, all of
black satin, or with a vanIp of patent
leather and an upper of black satin. To
be explicit, these new arrivals in the show
of foot wear are cut on the pattern OF
any pretty high-buttoned shoe, but only
the possessors of model extremities should
presume to use them. Then only can they
he tastefully worn in carriage and draw
ing-room. Far more practical and just IA
pretty are kid high-heeied calling shoes
trimmed on toe and heel and button flap
with patent leather. Sometimes the
leather is applied in three narrow stripes
across the toe. the whole of the button flap
is made of it, and the heel is covered with
patent leather: As a rule good taste pre-.
walls, and the simple decorations are III
greatest vogue.
Never put a badly shaped foot into q
slipper for the evenin e; cling TO tn,
Oxford tie," is the advice of an elderly and
experienced bootmaker. who also reJoioe'
in ngreatfame earned by his wares, and shows
the last fashionable decision III evening
shoes. IL is an Oxford tie of any heel 0l
toe preferred, and of any color OF saith
| wished. Both on top and toe it is EN-
broideTed and beaded and laced with sill
ribbons TO match the satin. Now and then
by special order, he makes ties OF ,ery
pale tinted satin, and sends them to
water color artist TO decorate with wat
teau designs over the toes, while up The
The times., 1897-10-31
SMART SHOES

The STYLES Fa shionable CobbIerS \ re
Introducing This Season.
New York, Oct. 30.-If It is a ques-
ton OF shoes any woman has it on her ..ln-
science TO bend all her energies upon soly-
ing she should, for her own sake, beaI IN
mind that for street wear no flin.sy thing
can appeal to the critical eye. Rounder,
wider toes, lower ana broader heels than
ever seen are ut present masters of the Sit
Uatlon. Thick extension soles, -'cricket-
ers' soleS'' they are called are by ;he Iiost
dainty-footed women looked upon as the
acme Of fashion but, for the reason tllat it
heats and strains tender flesh ana muscles
and is difficult To keep highly Polished
calf skin is not worn as Enthusiastically
as formerly.
Kangaroo hide, bright dongola, stout
American kid and what is dignified by the
title Russia leather and seal skin, are all