The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1897-09-30

Philadelphia Press-The reign OF the
blouse is supreme Even the tailor
made gown, that most fetching contriv-
anoe, which is supposed TO show the ad-
mirable outlines OF the wearer, Is
largely affected, and no longer cllngs to
the figure as " IL had grown there, The
blouse IS In everything, It is king or
queen or whatever you like to call 1t,
but anyway II you wish to be In fashion
do not forget the blouses for single
moment.
Now, the question is whether 1t Is
comfort or vagary OF style which has
brought this about. 1t Is certainly not
economy, for the blouse tatkes more
cloth than the tight fitting gown, as
every woman knows. j have set II down
as due to two reasons. The stout women
like the blouse because II IL extremely
comfortable. The women who are not
stout like It because II gives them a
fuller appearance than would otherwise
be the case,
The stout woman always thinks more
of her comfort than the slight woman OF
her appearance, because the stout wo-
man has given up all hope of ever APP
pearlng slight. and the slight woman
envies her her composure, So II is not
at all unlikely that the blouse has come
TO stay.
A modiste with whom talked on the
subject the other day, said this to me-
which is SO true that ! give II for the
benefit OF those who care to read; I'VE
are gradually coming to that point
where comfort is constantly considered
by fashion. The moment YOU reach
thai Stage. just at that moment whal
we people who make dresses call com
mon sense is considered. The result Is
the blouse"
II the blouse is not worn, II is replaced
by coat effects or the double-breasted
bodice, which holds its ground. and will
be largely used this winter. These
double breasted affairs have all the
left-hand jabot, and since heavy wooden
goods is scarcely adaptable to this pur-
pose, the frills will be OF lighter fabrics,
such as silk, chiffon or lace. A little
later on the jabot will be made Of the
bodice material. less full and edged with
fur 10 harmonize with the gown, or
made Of a fiuting of fur. While in the
depth OF winter these blouses will ap-
pear made OF fur, especially sealskin or
astrakan,
II there Is nothing which can compare
with the rage for blouse effects II is tho
craze for braid trimmings. Everything
that is susceptible to that tretament-
and some things which would seem not
to be as well-has artistic scrolls and
curves and straight lines OF braid there
on. generally in strongly contrasting
color, but braid at all events. The fig-
tlres are arranged horizontally, vertic-
ally, diagonally, in Van Dykes, and. in
fact, in every way that the mind OF
woman can conceive, and really, 1t Is
wonderful how much 1t adds to the eff
feet OF plain material.
Tucks, too, are much liked. and Will
be seen both on street and evening
gowns. For the heavier goods the tucks
are rather large, and sometimes the up
per tuclSs OF a skirt so treated will be
diagonal. higher on the left side than
on the other. This gives the effect OF n
drapery, and the advantage of being
new. Sleeves are treated In the same
manner but straight. When this treat
ment Is adopted for the light evening
fabrics. the tucks are innumerable
and very fine. standing out like cords.
There Is practically no end to the var
iety OF dress materials this season.
Plain cloths, diagonals. plaids and
checks all seem TO find equal favor. The
one thing necessary In order to be in
The fashion, so far as skirts are con-
cerned, IS to have them tucked, flounced
or braided, the material chosen being
less important
Prominent among the features for the
coming season Is the boX-pleat. which
has returned TO popular favor and since
faahtop poyar docs things half WAY We
are TO have -pleats again, on both
bodlces and skirts. The present fancy Is
TO have the pleat down the front of
skirt and bodice alike, II being wldened
at the neck and feet and diminishing
at the waist Small buttons are largely
used as additional trimming this fall,
and are sometimes employed to fasten
the box-pleat all the way down from top
10 bottom. Occasionally, also. they are
put on in groups at the waist or bust.