Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1897-08-08
Rich Gowns from the Fsmo4:
frankfurt CostumerS.
ULLMANN SSTRAUSS.
NEW DEPARTURES IN LACE AP-
PLICATlONS.
sRnmSr Sleeves tucked and SHRED to
Hit the Arm.

AoaulOuaOl6 blouse, jacket VI bOu4N~f
are the small basque. the epaulette,
and the collar with its bow Of rosette-
trimming Of ribbon, gauze or lace.
Indeed, the neekwear is a very i'm
portant attribute to the general ap-
pearance Of the elegant toilette. The
stiN white collar and the soft ruche
are equally fashionable. provided they
hide the neck completely and reach
to the ears and we'll under the chin.
The skirt form has become more
complicated, and light chnging ma
terials no longer cover the lining
smoothly. but are cut as a full drop
skirt over a narrow siIken underskirt,
which greatly adds to the delicate ap-
pearance Of the goods. Batiste and
other light wash goods make charm
ing skirts when tucked and shirred
over the hips, but women leaning to-
wards embonpoint should not be
tempted into wearing them, as they
enlarge. the form, and are fattering
only to very 1.-the and youthful figures.
A dainty gown Of this description is
worn by a young lady Of our clientele.
It Is Of white mousseline de laine, with
a little blue silk figure. The bodice
follows the bolero in form, being
composed Of wide tucks, one above
the other. which enclrcle the bodice,
and close on the left side under full
Mating Of white mousseline de sole
edged with narrow valenciennes lace.
A tight high belt or girdle of blue
satin confines the fullness OF the
blouse at the waist. The ample
sleeve cut in a straight piece is loose
at the shoulder, and fastened with
small tucks below, to fit the arm
closely. The epaulette consists Of a
rufle Of mousseline de sole edged with
lace like the one on the bodice, and an
other full founce trims the waist.
The blue satin ribbon collar is bor-
dered with narrow rufied lace, and is
finished by full bow Of ribbon at the
back. The drop skirt Of mousseline
de laine is adjusted over the hips to
the smooth white satin underskirt by
narrow tucks running lengthwise to
twelve inches below the waist line.
Foulard gowns are richly decorated
with rufies or pleatings, and taffeta
or poplin show elaborate lace appli-
cations Of Irish point or guipure, ar
tisticaily appliQued in large all over
patterns, or as borders in form OF
Hraceful garlands or arabesques. As
an illustration Of this genre we show
! in our ateliers a rich gown Of linen
batiste over an under-dress Of Nile
green taffeta. The batiste which is
stretched across the close fitting green
silk lining is pouched at the waist and
gathered into a belt Of Nile green taft
feta ribbon, closing at the left side un-
der a large bow Of ribbon and lace.
The whole front Of the batiste blOuse
Is appliqued with arabesQues and de-
signs in point lace, the batiste under
meath being cut away. The close
fitting skirt has the front gore like
wise lace-incrusted and defined by
narrow flounce Of lace over another
.founce Of Nile green gauze, thus form
ing a tablier. The collar of taffeta is
edged with narrow gathered lace and
Nile green gauze, and closes under a
full bow Of taffeta ribbon and lace.
The epaulettes are made Of three mar
row founces OF batiste. each flounce
edged with gathered lace and Nile
green gauze shirred into tiny tucks to
fit the arm closely, a style very well
adapted to slender arms. A cuff Of
lace finishes this novel sleeve at the
WRIT.
The absolutely smooth skirt is worn
only with outing costumes, or dresses
for very ordinary wear. and even the
tailor made gown has the skirt elabO-
rately trimmed with soutache or braid
ing to match the decorations on the
short jacket or the much favored
bolero.
Our illustration represents a street
gown OF the most approved style. It
is to be made Of reddish-brown covert
cloth. The skirt is cut in the newest
form. having but three cores, and fits
closely in front and over the hips,
while all fitness is gathered in pleats
at the back A very slightly stiffened
interlining is placed between the cloth
and the lining of changeable green
and rose taffeta. This interlining, to-
gether with a very pliable fine steel
band inserted in the hem of the skirt,
gives a body to the cloth and greatly
improves the hang OF the garment.
The seams Of the front gore are ma
chine stitched in tailor made style,
and a rich braiding of narrow black
moire ribbon and black silk
soutache extends along the front
seams and around the skirt. Stimulating
a tunic. The natIy jacket Of covert
cloth has rounded corners and it cut
to have the front darts and back
seams meet at the shoulders. 1t is
lined like the skirt, with taffeta. The
deep V shaped trimmings at the back