The record-union., 1897-02-14

among Har1S1d1l IdIlcleS W NedI with
elegant street and visiting costumes
during the early spring, are small Rus
sian jackets Of fur or velvet, no longer
than a bolero, but square-fronted, that
are almost covered with heavy beaded
and sequined arabesques, sunken in the
rich pile These costly little confections
are furnished with Understanding Robe
sphere collars.
The newest evening toilets show the
skirts and upper portions of the bodice
decorated with one billowy mass of ac-
cordion-pleated frills of chiffon or
mousselaine de sole, plain or en-
broidered, black, white or delicately
tinted These frills are arranged in
single double and triple rows. They
form huge ruffs and rucheS, they outline
the edge of the Pompadour corsage, or
decorate in airy undulations the entire
top of the low-necked bodice. They
form the sleeves-such as they are-and
simulate bolero jackets and overskirts;
in short, they garnish entire toilets,
sometimes to the exclusion of any other
decoration.
Chameleon effects in silks, fancy
satins, woods and silk-and-wool mix
lures will continue to be largely repre-
sented among spring 1mpOrtationS; and
to correspond with these will be made
superb display of entirely new Persian
and iridescent gimps, galloons, elaborate
passementerie, bands, points and appA-
ques for dress garnitures.
The Shop-windows are already aglOw
with not only spring temptations in the
way of light woods innumerable, and
fancy silks galore, but the most sum-
mer-like diaphanous gauzes, muslins
and tuIles that one must go inside where
it is comfortably warm even to look at
without chill. And now come also the
inevitable mark-down sales, and here
the greatest discretion is needed. AS a
rule deliberate choice and bargain sales
have very little in common. There are
wise, clever shoppers, many of them
women of wealth, who plan to wait each
season for these sales. They are aware
by past experience that many elegant
trimmings, fabrics, wraps, etc, are at
this time sold very often for half their
original price because the heads of vari-
Gus departments are aware that by an
ials will be wholly out of fashion or re-
quest, and will then go for song, and
they are thus sold for far less than they
cost the merchant. But great discrimi-
nation is needed. and this countless
women lack. AT sight of some pretty
bargain, away goes all prudence, and
money in a moment OF impulse is ex-
pended for something that is not needed
and in the end may never be used. An
experienced buyer knows the standard
value of velvets, cloth, tweed, light
weight woods. laces. passementeries,
etc. If she perceives that the importers
or merchants are giving their customers
the benefit Of a sale of valuable fabrics
likely, for some reason, in the near fu-
ture to lose their present value, or if they
wish the room they are occupying for
more seasonable fabrics, she is a wise
woman who takes the benefit Of this
passing opportunity But the happy
hunting ground of the rabid bargain
seeker is no place for her, where any
thing and everything is purchased that
is offered; and as a rule bargains" of
any actual worth are only found in first
class business houses.
In these days, when the changes Of
fashion are so frequent, and often 50
diametrically opposed to those preced-
ing what is the latest, economy sug-
gests the purchase of a few very hand
some rather than many articles of
dress. and also the exercise of consid-
erable ingenuity in adapting these
gowns effectively to special and varied
occasions. Here are a few practical
suggestions to women whose positions
in life. even If they are not wealthy,
oblige them to be well gowned. In the
first place. make 1t a rule TO be in
yariahly well supplied with the best OF
gloves. boots, and at least one hand
some dress bonnet. which in these days
of wonderfully reasonable shapes and
garnitures, need not be at all extrav-
agant. Always have fresh pair OF
black or dark gloves to save the wear
of your lighter ones, and take special
care of both in removing them. Never
roH them up: always pull them into
shape while warm from the hands. A
rich black silk, satin or brocaded gown
of small design, stylishly made. is a
background for endless changes in
dress. Creamy laces caught here and
there with pretty jeweled lace pins;
little velvet bolerO jackets stamped
and wrought with silks or beads and
spangles: fanciful collars of colored
velvet with lace. jet or chiffon trim
nings; a pair Of deep lace cuffs, with
a bertha to match: fichu of black
point d'esprft, with ruffles OF the same
caught here and there with cherry sat
iu ribbons: graceful braces formed OF
Persian passementerie, with a girdle
corresponding; pretty garnitures OF
heads and embroidery in the form OF
vokes: square necked plastrons, Breton
breteIles. banded across the front. full
peck-ruches of lisse, mousselaine de
sole or net, with wrist frills to match
with all these and many more charm
ing confections, a plain dark or black
gown is multiplied constantly as well
as transformed.
Pleated rrucheS appear among lhe
earnitures to be used on the trimmed
skirts of evening toilets, alone or as q