The San Francisco call., 1897-10-17

grows apace, our women OF fashion revel
in the possession of furs as costly and
luxurious as those which adorn their
Eastern sisters.
Aud this is to be a furry season. Fashion
DEGREES it, and her devotees forthwith
obey. The little word so hateful TO the
ear feminine at the marriage altar is never
disputed when fashion speaks. Were
woman 10 obey her husband as blindly as
she does her modiste, he would think the
millennium had arrived ahead of time.
Meanwhile he must be content to rank
second in authority and pay the bills.
But must turn from the interesting
subject of man and his cheCkbook sphere
of usefulness TO the more fascinating
topic of furs in their present variety. 1t
is theme to enthuse over, for l have
feasted mine eyes upon such garments
this week as might have been fashion ed
for princess of blood royal, instead of
which they were designed for that queen
of society, the American girl. She will be
seen on our streets this winter in fur
array beautiful enough to be a worthy
setting for her own beauty. And if her
bank account permit she will choose seal
skin or sable, either alone or combined.
effect will hold preferred place and the
result will not be cum bersome. Sealskin
in the expert hands of the garment
builder lends itself gracefully to the new
order of things and is stylish to a degree
in the pouched shape so prevalent in
bodices. The coat length is scarcely a
length at all below the waist line, the fur
ripping into ruthe below it.
IL.
local society belle has a blouse-like front,
with collar, buttons and cuffs of chin
chilla, and siIver-mouated belt of liz ard
skin. Indeed, chjnchilla is in for hid to
popular favor and several charming cares
have been shown me for evening wear
made with yoke and ripple. It's delicate
tones combine effectively with the rich
color peculiar to sealskin, and the two
will be used together frequently. Lined
with ermine chipchilla is a most becom-
ing fur for opera wear, made into three
quarter lengths. For either blonde or
brunette nothing could be more becom-
ing.
Sealskin hath charms TO sooth ths
breast. be it never so savage-of woman
the civilized world over, and none of us l
fancy will admit that we do not long to
own one, some time and somew here, be-
fore we get into angel habiliments Even
then l can picture sorrowfuI seraph, on
the edge of coudlet in the ether blue.
regretting that she went unsealskinned 10
that bourne whence no seraph may return
New York girl who will winter in
California has brought hither a garment
that is the envy OF all her acQuaintances.
1t will be the despair of those who long
for yet cannot afford its counterpart. 'Tis
a coat of dark green cloth lined with
sat BILE, the fronts of course 1aring back.
ward and the rolling collar being of the
same handsome fur. The revers, into
which the collar widens, are square
shaped, and give a particularly smart ef-
feet to the front, while the back, close
fitting, is banded by Il half belt OF the
cloth, piped with fur, disappearing into
the seams under the arms. Deep cuffs OF
sable complete garment as disting he'd
in appearance as anything 1 have ever
seen, and 1 would advise those of my
readers who can happily indulge their
tastes for what is chic, costly and elegant
10 have just such a creation in cloth and
fur evolved for them.
Sabes that have left their tails behind
them have provided women of wealth
with suitable finish for capes. These
may ornament the skirt of the cape and
form epauIets. Occasionally they form
the trim ming of long stoles depending g
from the collar in front. Silks for the
lining of fur garments are bewilderingIy
lovely in variety. and may be had al
steeple prices if one desires them of the
best. Apropos of top-7tory prices Persian
lamb will vie with sable and seal for su-
premacy on feminine shoulders, although
it does not compare with its rivals in
point of dura bility. She who has money
to cremate at the shrine of fashion,
however, will waive the absence of this
virtue and incase herself IN a smart little
coat of the lamb that is Persian. She
will order it blouse. shaped az to the back
and 'front.' faced with ermine or chin
chilla to contrast strikingy with its jet
blackness, and will girdle it with as hand
some a belt as it deserves.
Previous to the setting in OF our So
called winter season, which is really not a
winter worthy of the name when one
thinks OF Alaskan and Atlantic shores,
fur co!larettes, collars ard boas are seen
on the streets and in the park, where our
most smartlY gowned women take their
daily walks and drives when abroad. The
collarettes are especially fetching, made
beautiful by the blending of fur, lace and
ribbon. ruched aggressively around the
wearer's neck.
They are an excellent compromise on
wrap when heavy outer garment is not
necessary, and impart finish of their
own TO any outdoor toilet. Some of them
extend to the shoulders, and they are in
/ variably dainty and becoming. She who
cannot afford a coat or cape of the costIier
furs may mpromise on a collarette with
much satisfaction in a climate like onrs
where day after day in winter will mass
when the colIarette is sufficient for outside
protection.
Boas retain their popularity, and are
within financial reach of all womenkind
many of them appearing in the cheaper
furs. 1t is in the collarette, however. that
ones fancy can run riot in a mass of flmv
lace. soft fur and satinv rIbbon-a yerita.
BILE CONNECTION in its way. Squirrel fur is
utilized for the lining of cloth coats, but