The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-08-01


any change in the actual making Of the
j@eket it can be arranged In seven differ.
."eia't tyles---one for every day of the week.
'i:hlhk OF it those of You who have to
wear. the same Jacket a.. whole: season.
Hh n just exactly like having seven
Jackets in one: :; - =: III.
: This. useful garment is of mediums
length, semi fitting at the back, with a
: pleat caught down by.a strap and buttons
@ at the waist, and loose in front. lit can be
worn as a plain, douhIe.breasted coat, and
IN this: shape forms capital wrap. These
+ transform ations, are effected by the: reeu-
lstron.ot the reyers to different heiehta BY
. means OF straps or buttons, or they can be
thrown. open and worn loose. BY an
other arrangement the revers can be
folded. and strapped at the top 50 as to
form trimming to the front of the coat.
Again.. they can be left open and the
atrapStastened across the front so as to
reveal the vest or blouse worn beneath.
The pulled sleeves are finished with
deep cuffs, which. by the same device Of
Sirapsand buttons, can be worn open OF
closed, turned backot straight. he coll
Tar is: similarly adjnstabl and. may be
made high, turned down or rolled over,
forming an Ed mirabEe. finish in either
style. In plain cloth. this noyeI Jacket
makes an ideal travelling wrap. The
reyers. can: be- either: irimmed; or un-
: Trimmed, and when finished with hand.
some >passemente1ie render ths* garment
.smartenough for visiting and afternoon
wear: Lastly: when made: in silk or yel-
verand effectively lined and trimmed, ii
makes an admirable opera or theater
Jacket Taken altogether it seems to me
the most: lsefuk novelty: of the season,
and, fnf acG. for M any seasons past. 49,
.GaIze> menus are high in favor at pres.
ent, and: really they are: becoming to.
almost: every enc and can be adapted in
style and. materfalto ALMOST any occasion.
Just at present they are worn: both. on
morningand evening gowns, but. they re-
3 quire the exact touch which only=a clever
and artistic dressmdker can. give to rem
der them a perfect success. Oneof th csc
/ saw was worn with a gray satin shot
with black ana trimmed down the front
with q double row OF Brandenb1rgs car:
ried out. in jet with an open work of Jet.
embroidery betweeni united By. narrow
straps. The effect was excellent: ::
= Thin, ;flmy textures: are. certainly: at the
height .:of their popularity this sum mer.
They: appear in al sorts of guises and ars
put to all conceivable uses. T he: latest is
10 have girdFes,of m OH ssai inc lie 4oie, with.
Tong ;sashlike:~ ENDS falfiBg> al ntast to the:
hem of The skirt. Avery pretty one, all
IN white and leila boratelya trim med with
real Nalenciennes, was worn, with q pale
blue gown OF meusseltne:d lie sole hpished
.1yjtha white satin. 6dl1at..* This material /
lsz,also used for the fchUsI spoke. Off one, |
in particular; in: the. Marie An toinette
style: also trim med with Yalenciennes, i
heing. espeeIslly. beautiful andi*I might \
add, delightfully."- xpensiye..~ .: :::@ 4
d. :. There seems TO be no. doubt: that the !:
Victorian: bonnet is to;he the head .ooFef-
ing OF the near future, and really, when
mot EXAGGERATED in style and :trimmfng, it,
pretty White legherp which / saw quite
on M E oyer. 10 the..itea, The .faring
d front was; covered with thtckIy :shfrred
. wiite chiffon 4nrade@tu give. theeffect of:as
small fuohing inst 'att be: brfn. With three:
small ptrfk roees on Ga ep side Of: the BAN
.teau resting OF tn l1air LIT he crown was
.:trim med #ith t~o-ioIded straps Of very
wide white tibboni.: CONS ing. across"thel.
front and back. of.y the: crown and fnishing::
lat the Fight site:cwitt another. rosette Of
I Iree roses to nalQh@ those worn ;iuslde:i
the briH.s: u T.: r: s.. ~. ri: ~ =.
On the Ieft. side was; a. mart bow. OF the
3, wide. ribbon, tIie: psdaupled oyer somes:
!. what and we'll Hired..:: On ~tbe same sid lei
were Two very fyliwhfte ostrich plumes,
one.standIDg G. upt qulte::::;high in 'front.' and i
the other falling oyer the baek.rof. the
. bFim. I he strin ss-==fot " hat WOULD a BON
RET he without strings we're: of;the same |
white ribbon,. and Were. Intended to be
tied under the chin a {ittle to:one. side. III
Tie. day Of. tile ugly4: fofmless "gos.I
safner''}N is over and; the Waterproof gar.
ments of the:pres ent season are. a delight
"to2the' eye as .wek: as a protection from. the
elements. ) Even:lhe. simplest of those:up, |
to-date rainy day wraps is both. stylish
eand becoming, .whife the more. elaborate
ones. are really beautiful One OF the
sim pier ones looks like gray tweed; with a
little collar OF green: velvet: Tie cape has
turned back. revers. fastened with pretty
buttons, and hem necessary the. reyers
can be button ed across, which makes' the
garment double-breasted. i. =. s:
T.. Perhaps the most striking exam fe;of
.dne ADVANCE IN :WaierpIO9IS. iS q aaek=
.bacEe coat " tn dou Bile breasted front
iasrenap. with :pearl: buttons. and having
velye.bopnd collar and: cuffs Il looks
like. n ofhin e so m UGH es:sflky alpaca, and
possesses the double .advantage OF being
y veiryiigst in weight. anitveGy smart in APP.
peaEanGe. THIS: ONE seemed ITO me the
most desiia bic. for general lset but Iisaw
one5whidt h rad been na ade: .to5.arder that
>wIdiss..ex1csedfngly handsome It was: a
Ioint geleak.inr dark blue whioh:.5inside was
all&wnite, and Just, IN: front was squalpfp-.
ously lined :wfth% bite satfni Ii 1.-THE cape,
with. Ills ,sITpnfarts reyefss&and collar, was
white, and: there we're white.
pearl bit tom fo;torn pIete the:sHect.;: 5!
s: Tbe: tea: jacket has evidently come :iof
sttqy: and is euns to :besnloTe p0Pulsr than
eye.t5 which: is perhaps :expEaifed by the
fact. that it is% conf Portable as::well as
dFessg$ he new esl 1aaterial ntilized tartt
these fashi0naBl jackets 'fs SILKY printed
gauge. ..'TIns ISL even9 Rn ore Cog 50 4. ner:l Ike
:tl5an sehiffon;: The pattsrn :.eaveFing The
fabric. .;.Et is zllsed for: the very .prettiest
:G til ese gar rfents; and lis espeeiall " effeo