The record-union., 1897-06-13

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Some time ago a noted writer an
nounced that scientific physicians had
utterly condemned the large round hats
weighed down with excessive garni-
lures, pronouncing them "a serious and
undeniable means of producing head
ache, wrinkles, and gray hair" one
would suppose that this threat OF a
trio of terrible Affections would nave
had the instantaneous good effect OF
banishing the burdensome cause of
them all but not so. We can almost
affirm that fashions power is more
potent than health or even life itself.
Gray hairs may appear, the picture
hat headache" may become chronic,
and wrinkles deepen, but while the
dominating Queen of Style DEGREES it,
we shall behold the baneful and over
pOwering picture hat.
The woman who wishes to look her
best must never blindly follow any and
every new caprice of fashion, but aim
to adapt fashion to her own special
needs. Take, for instance, the very
large ruches and collarettes now so
popular. Very many women pur-
chase these full frilly neck accessories,
with no thought beyond selecting the
shapes which please their fancy. They
put the huge airy yokes about their
necks, and in not a few cases they
have a bison-like appearance. AS
rule, the all-round collarettes are not
SO becoming to most figures as the
POmpadour style, or, better still, the
shape cut in deep points one on either
shoulder, the other two or three on the
front and back respectively. Some of
the latest collarettes are much elon-
gated, not meeting just in 'front.' but
tapering downward, forming a sort of
border to the wide box-pleat which still
distinguishes the front of many fancy
waists this season.
Very bewitching above young and
piquant faces look the Victorian poke
bonnets tied under the chin with
strings of airy net or gauze, the bon
nets trimmed with ribbons, large paste
buckles, and compact clusters of flow
ers and foliage.
1t would seem that shoulder-capes
or rather the manufacturers of shoul-
der-capes, are rallying all their forces
to enchain the somewhat waVering
preference for this sort of covering, and
il is quite certain that, for a time at
least, we shall continue to wear these
very fascinating confections. One no
ticeable feature is the extreme short
ness of the new cape and the excessive
fullness which gives it the appearance
of a large friIly collar surmounted by
an extremely large ruffie around the
throat. Lace, accordion -pleated mus
lin, brocade, grenadine, velvet or satin
ribbon, and unique jet ornaments COM
pose the majority of the black capes.
In lighter models, grass lawn, etamine,
guipure, all-over nets, and pleated lisse
are used to form the capes. Butter
color and String-color laces and inser-
tions are most approved. Indeed, pure
opaque white finds little favor just now.
These short styles are rivaled by a
pretty little summer garment which
has a zouave effect front and back.
Under the arms it reaches nearly to the
waist, but slopes upwards to form q
long V. This opening unites a little
above the shoulder blades, and the
neck is finished by a large ruffle of
black pleated lisse. The wing sleeves
which do not reach the elbow are COM
posed of wide fiounces of accordion
pleated lisse with pleated lisse epau-
lettes on the shoulders.
Some of the new dress skirts have a
vertical or otherwise circular trimming
carried from the waist downward to
the depth of half a yard or so. Many
women will be glad of this fashion for
perfect figure below the waist-line is
rare, and it is always the study of the
modiste to rectify this trouble, and the
severe uncompromising skirt that has
so long prevailed gave the wearer no
chance of improving upon too great
slenderness, nor of moderating the re-
dundancy of the figure by judicious
trimming. For the first-named defect,
circular decorations are carried quite
around the figure about the hips, and
for the second, vertical garnitures of
unequal length, and slightly radiating
as they descend, greatly modify the
effect of over-br hips.
The transparent materials so greatly
in vogue this season will make most
beautiful and comfortable gowns for
sultry summer wear. Sheer white
dresses and those of tinted batiste, or
CANDY, linen lawn and similar textiles
are ideal hot-weather gowns, and never
We're they made up in a more becoming
and charming manner for now that ex-
aggeration has wholly ceased in the
matter of immense sleeves and absurd
ly extended skirts, all the features of
fashion are most graceful and attrac-
tive, and although there is a pretty and
picturesque fullness left at the top of
the sleeve, they are so fashioned as to
fit the forearm closely with all the be-
coming width distinctly at the upper
part The sleeves of transparent
gowns this season show unlimited va
riety and change almost with each in
dividual wearer. Triple frills and puffs
a single medium width puff tapering TO
almost nothing under the arms inser-
tions of lace embroidery or shirrs and
narrow Duffs alternating. going round,
up and down, or diagonally over the
arm, are favorite styles in summer
sleeves. Another very popular model
is the shape with a seam on the outside
of the arm with fullness let in from the