The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-08-08
VOTES.

In the search for something to occupy women
whose minds are not absorbed In the details OF
daily economies, the manuscript cook book, a
necessity to earlier generations, is on the way
to become IA fad. The modern compilations are
encased in costly covers, for which the art Of
the binder is taxed TO devise symbolic variety.
In some instances characteristic head and tail
pieces, done in water color, are employed as u
decorative note. To these collections only
rare, exceptional, and unpublished culinary
formulas are admitted. In former times these
manuscript cook books were Indispensable.
They were handed down from mother to daugh.
ter as hcirloorns of great value. They covered
Il wide range. Not only did they tell how 10
prepare all kinds OF food, but they were also
ency c~lopedias Of domcstir life. The writer has
in his possession one of these ancient compila-
tions, 1t is n quarto volume of 235 pages; the
work is OF many kinds, As the varied calligraphy
nttcsts. Its pages are yellow aud the ink faded.
There IL no system employed IL its records.
Recipes and instructions are mingled in a
a strong punch is followed by one for the cure
Of snake bites or Ito escape the effect OF light
ming, and one for plum Hal p, "n, irsr BY riioTT to
an age when hard drinking was a part OF the
routine Of every day life. this old compilation
Is forciblc concerning the connection OF alec,
holic beverages. In making 'nmhrusia, I'M
apparently innocuou,s compound Of Gg,rrant-.
to u brew of twelve bottles; there Is added one
gallon of brandy. 1t will arouse contempt
raneous envy. ,reKrei. and thirst to state tha, at
ten shilings. English. II gallon. shrub"
which was intended for evening conviviality.
was made of Il doz. lemons. = dohi oranges; :
lbs. OF sugar, " ditto. of candy, and SIX bottles
OF rum or brandy" There Is no mention. Of
water as an adulterant. although it is under
cnt the proportions shall be increased. tndcr
the title OF the best ever eaten L. "A recipe for
plum pudding-"lr ID. rnisins, le do. currauts.
ditto of brown bread. ditto OF sugar, some salt.
some lemon peel. nutmeg, candy lnhc word mat
i brandy to- % your "h' taste. ! egg. bea, ei.' scpsr"tsly
boil 1 hours A Capt. Murray of HE British
army boldly sisns a formula for n milk ,I punch;
minimum of milk. There is a medical prcscrip-
tion for the cure of contraction of the muscles
or joints" that will interest modern practl-
TONERS. Half ID. OF fresh lard and ! pint OF
worms. put in a saucepan, until well simmcrcd
are taken from the earth without being washed.
When melted together strain and bottle for use.
Rub the afflicted parts by the fire = or 3 times
II day"
The Cookery Exhibition held in London was
intended to illustrate the advance made in the
culinary and gastronornic arts during the past
sixty years. Apart from mechanical devices
used in the various processes OF the cuisine.
this end was not attained. In one direction
there was "a signal omission, the display Of cut
glass used in such profusion during the first
decades or the century. The committee in
charge OF this department was unable TO meet
the cost OF special reproduction Of the pieces.
and private owners could not be induced to
risk the loan of their fragile treasures. On tho
other hand. plated wine coolers and hranChcd
silver candclabr with ccntrepieccs with little
dishes for almonds and raisins, in the best
taste OF the period. were many and interesting.
Tho chefs Of the various London clubs con
tributci examples Of their skill. but as the
cooks Of 1887 were all dead. there were no data
for comparison There was no evidence of SUI
pcrior modern creative ability. The Galantinc
de Volatile Of the chef of Morlcy's Hotel and
the Buisson de CrcvetteS of the che. of the
Junior Constitutional Club. two prize winners,
are ancient formulas. susceptible Of the most
technique was tho more noticeable was in the
department OF confectionery. The imitation
of chrysnnthemums and baskets Of misCcllanc-
Gus flowers done in sugar are described by Inc
London journals as very remarkable. Tho
encomiuIns. however. bestowed upon these
pearance OF well-paid Advertising. Where the
English excel IL In the making of raised game
and vcnison pies. The face of an aged and
'oothless amateur of 1897. il IL reported,
'bcamed with delight" at the sight Of these
connections, consequently IL may he assumed
that the pie makers OF England have not in
this particular deteriorated in the past sixty
years. In appliances for the Use OF gas and cleo
triclty In cooking the exhibition contained no
devices superior TO those of American invcn-
gas still maintains the asccndancy.
Edward Conner, who has written quite OK
tcnsively on gastronomic topics, contributes to
an English journal an article on 1.-The Table
Throughout History" He is at variance with
Max Muller, and believes with Joseph Le
Malstre that a rcpast should be considered a