The record-union., 1897-09-19

III
Among autumn skirt models are
many finished with three very deep
flounces. the three wholly covering the
closely gored Foundation, or there are
many rows of tiny frills set on from
belt to hem, and in this case the sleeves
and upper portion of the waist are IKE
wise trimmed. Overdresses appear
caught up at one side, or in regular
pointed-apron style-some very long,
the point reaching to the skirt-hem'
others in laveuse fashion, the lower
edge faced with a bias fabric contrast
ing in kind, and frequently in color
with the material forming the over
skirt.
The hardy Scotch tweeds and chew
lots hold very favored place in the
season before US among popular dress
fabrics designed for travelling, shop
ping. walking, and similar uses. The
patterns Just opened are very pleas
ing both to the eye and the touch
many designs in cream and green, al
mond, green, and brown, biscuit color
and Russian blue, etc; others show a
face looking one faint hue at a short
distance, but showing from three to
five colors on close inspection. These
pretty. indistinct mixtures give the
purchaser an opportunity to select a
favorite color with which to trim or
combine with her costume. The wear
of a genuine Scotch wool is almost end
less, and for general uses it has only
one very strong rival-one very fire.
quently alluded to here-English serge
"a fabric that with any sort of care
VIII last for years.
There will be a great vogue during
the fall and winter seasons of repped
silks of every description and color,
corded silk and wool, and all-wool ma
terials. The new silks have ordinary,
medium. and extra heavy reps, these
appearing in black and a wide range
of handsome dyes, both for day and
evening dresses. These silks will be
used for gowns entire, and also in COM
binatfon with other stylish fabrics.
Fancy cords with shot or jaspered
grounds make more or less elegant and
dressy gowns, with often relief IN
brocade, MORE, or velvet There are
also broche changeable satins shown
among new goods at the importing
houses, some of exceedingly beautiful
quality and luster that have very faint
~ shot grounds in two colors, with
unusually small broche figures of the
one or the other color of the gown
thrown upon the surface; for instance,
a reseda and rose-colored ground, with
a rich damask rosebud design of min
ute size. These Will make lovely toll
cts for all sorts Of occasions, according
to the colors in the silk and the de-
gree of decoration employed. Other
more snowy silks for evening wear are
in larger chine effects, that look very
much like water-color paintings. Pom
padour silks of exceedingly bold pat
tern and vivid coloring are designed
exclusively for very full-dress coca
sions. These silks require to be toned
down rather than the contrary by their
garnitures or combinations.
The latest fat of fashion is that only
when they accompany a toilet or cos
tune in black and white effects are
white gloves stitched with black any
longer indispensable for day wear. Doe
color, biscuit, mushroom, almond, and
pale brown and tan shades are, strict
~ speaking, more fashionable. The
economical, whether from choice or ne
cessity, will be glad at this change of
fashion, for white gloves, even with the
greatest care, soil very quickly, and
nothing looks worse than a dingy white
glove.
The plain, opaque. white linen collars,
with cuffs to match, added this sum-
mer to all cambria, lawn, and muslin
shirt-waists, as we'll as to those of
silk, were very trying to all but fair,
youthful women. When becoming,
they are generally noticeably so, and
look remarkably neat. trim and smart.
Their severity is usually softened by a
muslin tie with lace ends, or a mar
rover silk tie, carried round the throat
and a leather waistband Of correspond
ing color. A simple white dress, made
with full bodice, was worn with a
green leather belt, fastened with an
odd silver buckle of large size. The
silk tie, which was in the same soft
shade of green, had the long ends
brought from the throat and tucked in
the belt, and the white sailor hat was
banded with green repped silk ribbon.
White belts look well only on slender
women, a conclusion one reaches daily
as they are beheld circling the ample
waists of over-stout persons. Neater
and more useful, and at the same time
more expensive, are the Russia leather
belts fastened together with solid silver
links. Spangled belts have gone en-
tirely out of fashion, and rightly so, as
they certainly vulgarized every dress
they accompanied. and were presump-
tive evidence Of the faulty taste of the
wearer. Ribbon belts with loops and
ends are still in high favor, and many
fasten on the left side at the back with
two long. slender standing and falling
loops on the right in front, the standing
ends reaching up well on the waist.
Two ribbons in different shades Of the
same color are artistically arranged on
new pretty French house dresses. This
combination is more novel than that %
combining two or three contrasting coll
ors.