The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-09-14
4 IDEAS for Juo1nen


TO Judge from the first exhibition of
autumn materials. one would infer mat
the designers were all Scotch. There are
plaid woolens with silk cross stripes, PLAID
silks for full skirt, waists, plain stockings
and pettieoats. all of which will be worn
from now on until Thanksgiving. and
after that we shall get out the mixed
camers hairs and cheviots that are al
ready to be seen if one looks close enough.
Plaid woolens with silk stripes are
made up diagonaIly. whereby they can
be cut to suit any figure whether stout
or slim. These are generally considered
sufficient unto themselves without fur
Their trimming, but black gimp braid
may be used to advantage in some
cases.
Some of the plaid patterns have the APP
pearance of being formed by running rib
bons in and out through the goods Itself.
A green silk plaid has a red satin ribbon
stripe that is decidedly deceptive.
Plaid shirt waists are made up very
simply for autumn wear, with three
pleats in front, rather small shirt sleeves
with plain, straight cuff-not turned
Oakland a cravat of plaid to match.
The smallnessl of the sleeves is not ex-
aggerated. White linen collars turned
half way down.. are worn .as> usual.
There is a new mohair, woven in
checks, but not plaid in color, which will
make very pretty autumn dresses. the
material requires very little immin
and has a nice dressy appearance IN
itself one gown made of this goods was
of a reddish plum color. The waist but
toned to the left shoulder was orna-
mented with three diamond-shaped vel
vet pieces. to simulate large buttons. The
collar was of folded taffeta and very
high. and above it flared the same
cheek-protectors that we wore with such
comfort last year. The belt was wide
and high, with a large boa at the right
side of its upper edge. The sleeves
were the most attractive part of the gown
and were especially recommended by the
fact that they would be so easily mace.
Being rather small mutton-leg sleeves
they were merely broadened at the Top
by the addition of three ruffles, one OF
the material and the other two OF SILK.
The various large New York houses
seem to differ widely on the SUBJECT OF
the correct bodice for the winter SUIT.
One large establishment is making
nearly all its show costumes with the
blouse. belt and basque. This is decided
iY newer IflIH Lie oiS 80
generally becoming. The blouses inyari-
AZ, fasten I'D the side, some starting
from the middle of The front at the waist
and sloping up to the shoulder, others
running from the shoulder straight down
TO the waist. A stunning blue cloth suit
which was marked $50 had this style OF
basoue-that is, the blouse fastened dag
onallv. 1t was trimmed with five tuckS
that formed a yoke around the collar, or
belt. The blouse was fastened at the
waist with a handsome steel buckle.
ones wardrobe will hardly be complete
without at least one of the beautiIui
steel buckles that are now being sofa
to trim tailor-made dresses. They come
ns plain steel, but the prettiest ones are
set with all sorts of make-believe gems
in heliotrope, green, blue, and red hues.
These are very expensive, but when one
considers that one buckle is all the trim
ming necessary for a whole dress that
modifes the matter considerably.
An extremely serviceable tailor suit is
made with the blouse, as described, with
a circular basque that is not full, but
merely cut to fit the hips and sewed on
separately. 1t has a pocket with a point
ed flap at the left side. With TINS, one
can wear a pig-skin belt, or a belt OF the
material fastened with one of the orna-
mental buckles mentioned above. For a
business or shopping suit this could hard
w be improved upon. The blouse, instead
of reaching to the neck, turns away IN
a slightly coat-like fashion with narrow
lapels and above is the chemisette of
white linen, silk, or whatever one cares
to wear. A shirt waist may be worn UNI
derneath by the woman who likes to re-
move her blouse jacket in the house.
A bit of silk pleating sewed along
the edge of the diagonal fastening of
one of these blopses relieves the sever
-ity of the tailor suit, and the chemisette
may be of the same silk laid in five
tucks.
If one has a dress left over from last
winter it can easily be converted into
a blouse costume of the present style by
putting in new back pieces and adding a
circular basque to the lower edge of the
belt. 1t may then be cut out around
the neck to admit the chemisette, and If
it is necessary to piece it to make it fas-
ten to the side the seam can easily be
covered with gimp trimming. OF course
this p~resupposes that about a yard OF
material has been left oyer-a circum-
stance which every one should remember
when purchasing a new QreSS-
Any round yoke effect, with the rest
of the bodice bloused will be correct this
season. l noticed a black velvet blouse
with three folds of turquoise blue velvet
forming a narrow. round yoke that fol-
lowed the line of the collar. which was
SO simple that it hardly seems worth
mentioning, yet the most somber gown
could be easily frightened up in this
manner without the aid of a dressmaker,
and it is q very good thing to remember
when one is trying to remodel an old
dress.
Sleeves are made of the same mate
rial from wrist to shoulder, but may be
very small and then broadened with
ruffles or trimmed caps at the top. No
sleeve puffs or separate material are adj
missable. The cuffs that turn down and
nearly cover the HAND are again fashion
able. They are usually cut in two parts
and trimmed with braid or whatever or
amentation is used on the rest Of the
dress.
Some of the new materials have a
trimming woven in an all-oyer pattern,
to go with them. This usually forms
the sleeves and the bottom of the skirt.
The loose hanging jacket has a border
at the bottom of the same trimming as
well as the square lapels. The plain silk