The record-union., 1897-02-28

NJ w 1s>1
over velvet ribbon-a style less gariSh
than it sounds; and green velvet and
cerise satin are oddly and stril1ingly
used upon black velvet and trans parent
black toilets. Any number of new black
nets are brought out and will be used
as tTansparencieS over cerise, mauve,
Spanish yellow, pink, old rose, etc, as
we'll as over black or white moire satin
or taffeta.
Tucks have long been considered a
simple trimming for childish gowns,
but fashion is doing her utmost to in
sist that tucked skirts, tucked bodices,
sleeves, etc, are entirely suitable for
women who have passed their second,
third and even fourth decade. Skirts
for the spring and summer Will be
tucked to above the knees, or otherwise
they will be tucked on the upper in
stead of the lower part of the skirt. If
near the hem, the tucks are moderately
wide. About the hips they are mar
ROVER, and as a rule the pleats are laid
perpendicularly. The horizontally tuck
ed skirt bodice, yoke and slaeves with
which we are now growing familiar
date back to the gowns of 1877 and
1881 and IN histories of dress we see
illustra tions of this style in very early
Victorian fashions. A pretty velvet
sleeve on a model for an Easter gown
is cut in ONE piece throughout, being
sufficiently wide at the top to simulate
small puff on the shoulders. Four
or five graduated longitudinal tucks are
arranged at this part of the sleeve; be-
low, the fullness is sloped to the arm,
and at the wrist fits tightly and then
expands into a pointed calla-shaped
Suff.
Cordings rival tucks in favor and
these are exceedingly popular with
modistes just now. Cordings near the
waist are convenient for regulating the
fullneSs of the skirt at this portion of it.
Say there are three or four cordingls
about two inches apart immediately
below the waist; this insures plainneSs
about the hips the skirt expanding in
umbrella shape below the cordings. The
cord must be fairly thick to insure the
desired effect, and many Gnodistes use
the circular model in making a corded
skirt
Red was never more worn than this
winter; 1t appears as the background
of so many of the embossed goods or
alone braided heavily with black, or
the solid color forms part of the dress
in the form of facings, pipings or puffs.
No one can deny that ruffles of silk
or lace or motnsseline de sole are a very
pretty addition to a skirt worn on
dress occasion; dt is true, they take a
little from the apparent hight, and In
so far are disadvantage TO a short
Woman but they give a charming little
air which makes up even to the short
woman who wants so much to be tall
or at least to look tall.
Many Of the warp printed summer
fabrics already displayed are far pref
tier and more delicate in effect than the
deeply woven patterns This process
appears as well on heavy as ON very
diaphanous textiles, and the vague
shadowy designs are particularly beau
tiful on French 0rgandies, batistes and
semi transparent silks.
There is a good dead said about fanci-
full hosiery, but plaids and such COM
binations are adopted only by extrem-
lists, black continuing to be worn by
well dressed women on most occasions;
with fun evening dress the color of
slippers and of hose viii harmonize
with the gown and other accessories
Quaint little Normandy bonnets with
peaked crowns and shirred brinns ac-
company many of the costly Lenten
gowns. The majority of them are made
of fabrics matching the costume, and
very often a tiny mouchoir muff is ad
ded that is suspended from the neck
by a narrow ribbon or tiny cord of
finest gold.
The very long sleeve whose points
extend we'll over the wrist cannot be
considered altogether comfortable, for
they are really somewhat in the way;
they suggest how easy it must be to
soil them, and how easy to rub their
edges. For dress strictly intended for
the street and made of heavy material,
they seem more appropr'ibe than for a
dress to be worn in the house where al
most every woman has a use for her
hands.
1t seems to be a recognized fact that
a bolero is a desirable addition to a
dress. A jacket OF this shape is often
of the dress material, the vest of color
and fabric differing. or the bolero is
Of passementerie or rich embroidery.
Such jackets are jaunty and are more
suitable to young women than to dow
ayers.
The new skirts are gauged, corded.
tucked, knife pleated, or laid In finer
accordion pleats. They are considerably
less flaring without losing anything of
their attractive cachet, and are much
less cumbersome than the skirts of past
seasons. Some of the new skirts are
shsrred on the hips alone, the back
plain and full, the front forming an
apron that is trimmed down each side.
The butterfly is a favorite decoration
at present; the sleeve of that name is
pretty and is capable of being very be-
coming while the butterfly shape is used
freely in millinery in the form of bows
of ribbon or of tinsel ornaments.