Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-04

SlS rs \Eh from. Pointed or V
EEhXT necks keep up the
%t) struggle, but the
SXAS is generally cut off
y Y front and back as a
concession to the claims Of the square
A pretty variant on prevailing styles is
| effected by throwing not too vouminous
| fichu Of mcusseine de sole ruifIed with
| lace over the shoulders, crossing the ends
and carrying them round the waist to hide
under the sash somewhere. The crossing
should be made low enough to leave a
triangle of lace or of the bodice material
above, as if a square deco!lete We're par
TALLY covered by the fichu. This suggestion
should be utilized for Slender figures only
Another possible variant was Illustrated
at dinner dance few nights ago, when
a bodice of turquoise blue gauze embroi-
dered with silver and cut very much Off
the shoulders, was worn with straps of
turquoise velvet: these started from the
lace fIill that finished tie square front and
ran. like the sides OF broken v up to
puify bows tied above the arms and doing
duty for sleeves. A narrow sash gave a
repeat Of color and material
The usual modification of the straight
front is brought about by pulling it down
bit in the middle with a bow, flower
or a jewel.
Back and Front.
The low-cut hack is not in fashion. There
have been winters when decollete was a
euphemism as applied to the display of
shoulder blades
The pouched bodice is almost as dom
inant in the evening as by daylight. When
it does not obtain. form of the en-
pire gown can be looked for more or less
confidently.
The holero is applied to party gowns &C.
casionally. 1t is not recommended except
Tor special purposes Of color decoration
Sleeves CT some sort usual, though
rosettes of lace ribbon can be construed
as supplying the deficiency.
Lace, mousseline and chiffon are used in
almost Incredible quantities for bodice dec
Grafton Ribbon is applied literally but it
does not hold first position.
Snshes Arc Popular.
The sash is of supreme importance. 1t
may end directly in front, behind or on the
side. The use of the sash with short end
is confined mostly to the empire gown. A
very pretty result was obtained recently OH
pale yellow silk frock by passing draped
folds of white velvet about the waist, cross
ing them In front and fastening them, in
deftly tied bows, higher up upon the bosom.
Inc ureSS SO arranged gave modified en-
pirc effect fer a young and quite slender
girl. Sash ends reaching the hem of the
gown are quite usual; they may be of some
width and deliberately ornamented. One of
the newest sashes takes the form of scarf
knotted on the left shoulder knotted again
at the left side OF the waist and hanging to
about the level of the knees. A folded
belt without sash ends is preferable for
many figures.
Velvet in rich and delicate shades is used
even more extensively for evening wear
than in the daytime. Velvet skirts are
commonly nest effective If 'untrimmed or
edged simply with fur. When embroidery
is used. or lace, the ornament must be rich
enough to add to the material. Gray vel
vet combined with violet chiffon and royal
purple velvet, trimmed with white satin
and ermine, are examples or costly toilets
seen within the last week or two. Wine
colored velvet threaded with pale yellow
was quite as successful: the bodice of this
last gown was crossed with old rose chiffon.
Handsome Materials.
Brocades of great beauty rival the vel
vets. Plain brocade skirts and skirts with
panels of lace or accordion pleating are
equally desirable. Jeweled brocades are
probably the tosthePt materials of the
season.
Stately gownst for evening receptions are
cut with trains. II banding dresses are long
er than last season. 81
Many of theh dancing skirts. for the
younger set particularly, are covered with
rufies to the waist. nan odd fancy is for
mousseline or chiffon, accordion pleated,
draped over silk and edged at the hem with
fur. The best that can be said for this
notion Is that the accordion folds, which
should be, very fine, hang WELL
Not much that is really new can be said
about dancing slippers. The prettiest are
made to order OF SILK or satin to match
the evening gown. Rosettes of lace, rib
bon or velvet are the standard trimmings.
Fewer buckles are seen.
Genuine novelties In gloves are equally
scarce, though the ease with which even
the most rare and delicate tint can be
matched in any style has become some
thing to wonder over.
A few women always follow the compli-
Gated and usually unbecoming English
fashions In hair dressing, with their es-
sentially improbable frizzes and 'undula-
tions;" but In general people who are Wise
arrange the hair in the simplest method
that Is becoming
At Cottillion.
At pretty cotillion danced few even
ings ago one Of New York's fashion leaders
wore a dress that serves as an excellent
example of the ball gown as it Ia worn.
The design was a modification Of the en-
pire mode, carried out in white and gold.
On the skirt panels of white accordion
pleated mousseline de sole over yellow
silk alternated with narrow panels Of gold
and white brocade; the glittering figures
on the white ground were brought out in
5eWel-iike brslliancy and sparkle by