The Monte Vista journal., 1897-05-29

tts convenience matter OF importance,
Its ideal that II may be safeguard
without imposing any supernuous dis
comforts. 1t should. therefore. COM
press no one part Of the body. How
much less then, should 1t deform 1t!
If. therefore. after having consid-
cred clothing as a necessity. We look
upoa II as an ornament, It Is evident
that 1t can only beautify the body on
condition that 1t respects its contours
and does not break the harmonious
unity Of the whole. The materials en-
ployed for clothing are principally
women fabrics. which are in them
selves graceful. This must be respect
ed also and in consequences these It's
sues must not be wrapped around the
body. These principles are carried out
perfectly In ancient costume. as can
be seen by study Of the figures in
Grecian and Roman vases.
The costume was the same In its
principle for both men and women. II
did not dissimula,e the difference of
the sexes. but II did not attempt to ac-
centunte II. The tunic was q shorter
stola.' The mems garment was draped
as profusely as the women's and was
Tor both sexes floating and ornamental.
TO turn now to the toilet Of our
contemporaries.
We see at once that II is at variance
with any known principle. Two things
stand out prominently. First. the gar
ment Is always more or less elaborate
~ adjusted; second. 1t differs very ma
terially according to the sex.
Doubtless the adjusted garment
might In the first instance be explain
ID by the climate. against which II Is
was necessary to take precautions.
But II Is certainly clear to the most
casual observer that this utility Is at
present only an accessory In the minds
u our tailors and drnssmakers.
None OF the rules is observed today
in feminine attire. The corset Ia no
longer worn as protector: II COM
presses and deforms. The materials
are stretched over n rigid framework.
which notably modifies the form Of
he breast. and for the last ten years
he skirts have been either too ample
or too narrow. spreading out over ar
ihcial and proportionlcss contours
or displaying as much as possible OF
he real hsure by their sc,ntiness-two
perfectly opposite fashions destined to
convey the same Impression
What Impression"
THE modern fashionmaker has
AIKEN pains to exaggera,c all the parts
which nature has made most promi-
,ent In the body. All the little arti-
Ices Of detail have been brought into
)lay TO complete this frs; art!nce.
THE curves Of the body have been
brought Into bolder relief by the cor
,et: and. following the fashion OF the
lines. by pan!crx Ind busties: tho
.normous sleeves have n tendency to
lccentuate the waist and the high
Louis XIV. heels throw the bus, more
prominently forward and Impose on
he movements OF the body restraint
which reveals Its formation more
clearly. In a general way the femi-
,ine figure Is considerably amplined-
md cut In the middle.
"You can see for yourself the effects
II this division. The unity OF form
being broken. one glance no longer
embraces It easily: our eyes are separ-
itely attracted by the two parts which
compose II. and In each part by It's
protuberances. In fact. the waist n
understood by our contemporaries is
no longer large and supple. a. II was
In women Of ancient times. but II Ia
4 reformation of the body. and In the
disarrsnEement Of the thoracic cage
divides the women In two-to local
Ire our attention.
In \ few words. the feminine drcsa
has become essentially expressive Of
sex.
"The actual dress Of women today IL
the irrcconciinble enemy to their nat
urai duties. These are the sad but true
facs Of tho case
The publication Of this Interview
naturally made some sensation In
Paris. and some Of the famous dress.
makers were interviewed upon the
subject. The greatest OF them said:
There is = great deal Of truth In
what these critics say. but We are not
responsible for the fashions any more
than are the fashionable women who
enjoy the credit Of creating them"
But who. then. does set tho fash
tonS7" asked the interviewer.
NO one. Neither myself nor my
confrcrcs. Fashion Is u chain Of vari-
ntions which draks along In an unrea-
Soning logic and fatal caprice which
ordains that we should INCREASINGLY
hunt for change Of any kind from tho
fashion which wns In vogue yesterday
Lace Is worn today because Il was no,
worr yesterday: II will be worn less
tomorrow because Il II worn no much
today. The sleeve IL large today for
change: tomorrow II will he smaller for
the same reason and will finally dis.
appear altogether.
And all this happens imperceptibly
without much thought In advance. BE-.
cause We follow. or. rather. forcsec
the taste Of our castomers."