New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-11-14
BEAUTIFUL VELVET GOWNS.
PURPLE OF REDDISH AND TAWNY
SHADES THE SEASONS FANCY

sUsrLEs DOUBLE SKIRTS IN THEIR UGLEsT
FORMS AND "pUIL-RAcKs" ARE THREAT
ENED A RETURN TO-. THE
MODES OF THE SEVENTIES.
Paris November g. 1897.
u seems almost impossible to cease writing OF
velvets in some form other, they are not only
the most conspicuous Of fabrics but have been
responsible FOR a large proportion OF the novel
Affects presented this season The two most re
uarkabie gowns seen this week are both OF velvet,
but how vastly different IN style OF treatment the
one depending the beauty OF the stun FOR It's
effectiveness and the other on the odd arrange
r1ent into which the velvet is tortured.
"velours glacier is perhaps the most magnificent
fabric OF the and its name hardly suggests
It's curious texture. The surface Is crushed IN
such q way that the light seems sometimes 10 roll
over 1t in large waves. and again TO appear Ike a
Cender snakelike thread running through the
stun As one shakes out the folds one effect fol-
lows another with marvellous rapidly. Il has
been admired millinery and for dress trim
mngs not!csaby in the case CT sleeves, but an en-
tire gown Of IL is a veritable surprise. The color
chosen Is purple the reddish shade OF purple that
fashion ha. revived this very pale yellow
satin and magnificent point d'Aencon constitute
the trimmings The gown is cut with redingote
and q large lace collar narrows TO four jabot
revers, over the satin-faced revers OF the coat
front The waistcoat Is OF satin, arranged IN
many regular. circular folds. that bag a trihe.
The skirt drags. as do ali elaborate gowns now.
and the effect of the red!ngote falling over the
long skirt Is not considered al all
The other velvet dress alluded 70 Is deliberately
pleatsG and corded in fashion known as eper-
vier, word meaning kind Of hshnet. Il would
be tedious and impossible 10 explain the process.
more than 10 say that the breadths Of velvet are
sewed together and cut into large circle with
an opening for the waist. The whole Is then
pIeated and the pleats drawn together at intervals
by clusters OF cords. The Comtesse de Castellane
appeared at Longchamps one day recently In
gown OF black velvet. with the entire skirt bodice
and sleeves arranged in this manner. TIL. orig
inal facon is not confined 10 velvet. although It
made its appearance in that material We see 1t
In silk. already and the coutur!e-es promise It in
crepes and mousselincs. Dress certainly prom
son II the present craze for handwork continues.
BY November one naturally expect. 70 And me
fact can hardly be accepted this year Lovers OF
s9SS has Pd W0 m & Sere ney s
and save one from even the POSSIBILITY OF adopting
Souid b. be futile 10 deny s that there is threaten
Ing not only Of the hustle and the ugiest form Of
sf' Seu sows ss Shown Sas IF hoi yet TOO
suggest the modes Of the seventies Here Is
Sense OF Paris ar and described By then, as ,hef
latest chef d'auvre
PRINCESS GOWN.
The material. cloth in shades Of light gray, has
an elaborate embroidery Of black and gray braid.
done In a foliage pattern. outlined by scallop and
this trimming IL very important in bringing out
the character OF the gown. There Is q yoke OF
white lace mounted over black velvet that de-
scend, In tight caps over the sleeves. Below the
caps scant rufres Of the stuff trimmed
with the scalloped embroidery. Thus the long,
sloping shoulder effect is given above the tight
sleeve. The gown is really cut after the princess
model closed on one eide with the scalloped trim;
ming: when aIso eoseg scaht Hya" 49, Pa "a
rising to point foot higher In the back Inc
skirt Is tight above this founce and much fuller
tsrnsre nserted in the gown bring oat
q bs sTrs s oIt 10 ToSer al skirt en In the
founce produces an effect that is TO say the least.
The double skirt or dcuble-skirt effect suggested
by some arrangement of trimming Is not aIways
of a full upper skirt and scant underskirt, that
really "wobbes' about the feet IL 3itG IN the re-
suit Another model that IS REGARDED by us design
ers as lie SUPREME du chic consists . Of below 9ol 5s
knees wn with viii scsn sk From the
snce Of the two skirts when on one wouic con,
shSs more aboa ' lhan did the bottom Of the
skirt. Cloth is generally used tor the sleeves anu
eray a Trimmed med With Nh '' lat band Of
broidery down the front and is cut TO blouse a.,
70 Besnty but T. must be- admitted that some tall.
slender women have worn IL with a certain All Vi
pQuancy.
PRETTY BLOUSE BoDJcEs.
II is a relief TO turn from these gowns to some
examples Of pretty blouse bodies and graceful
skirts. which II must be admitted, are Tar more
prevalent than the eccenr!cties that nave Deeh oe
scribed. The Skin. that most women are wearing
now and, in all probability. will continue to wear
during the winter IL the same graceful anair that
described In the early autumn. We have De-
come accustomed 10 the slight drag on az! mouse
gowns, and the best arrangement OF inc Udch lu!-
has proved TO be the single. fan-shAped pIeAt
On the average hguTe no tonrhure - I,ne ~ &c
pleat Is decidedly graceful AS these sKlrts are
prettiest with fat trimmings. II - not strange tdt
Into use. and that the dressmakers nave revived
the OF perforated cloths. This is styIe ll.at
came out just three years ago, and for INC winter
was as popular in America. !! think. as II was ~
favor before spring toilets appeared ] sho uai
add. perhaps, that the dressmakers claim now maj
the manufacturers are not making perioratedd
tbat the open-work designs that appear are
stamped and cut out by hand. The designs seen seen
are simple. perhaps pattern Of clover leaves ao ai
rises high on the back breadths. and showing tle
SILK lining. that contrasts with the color OF tie
cloth.
A pattern that 90 not remember seeing before
has cut out parallel strips OF different widths:
street OF heavy reddish-brown cloth has about
the hem a border OF this trimming laid over wnite
tiny line Of gold braid. No OF the perforated
cloth Is used the suit: for bodice Is used tne
brown cloth. goid-embrodered. and worn with fitted
"alstcoat OF plush.
Tomato color is one OF the many shades OF red
popular this season. and It makes fortunate com
somatlon with reseda green II may prove trine
lying but touches OF IL In the way or belt ana
yohs nave both pleasant and novel effect. Inc
.ssseoa green gown which II was used presents
ne much-iiked blouse bodice In this case the
Stos front is carried over to faster with fancy