The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-10-11
Odd Little Heligoland.
# x
3 Germany's Queer Islet in the Rough
X North Sea.


At little distance Heligoland looks
like a curious smany-colored gem in
the midst of the seas sapphire and sill
yer setting, says the Hartford Courant.
A second look, and the unpleasant doubt
arises as to whether Capri, with all
its beauty, is really the fairest island
in Europe. &c rs
At the waters edge, scarcely to be
distinguished from the line of surf, Is
to be seen a narrow strip of snowy
beach. A few yards back from the
sea, rising abruptly to height of some
200 feet, tower cliffs of a dull red color
streaked with, white. Nor are there
any vines or, grasses to take from the
impression of boldness and ruggedness
which the massive walls produce.
Above the cliffs is IAN almost perfectly
fiat lakeland of vivid green, and in
one corner the little village, just ready
to tumble over the brink Of the preci-
pices into the surf below. One is struck
at once by the sharpness and regular
ity Of the island outlines-once more
like gem in it's perfect cutting and
finish. The cliffs rise to an apparently
equal height all round the place; and.
as far as one can judge, are exactly
perpendicular. Again, the plain above
them Is as level as land ever can be.
only the irregular group Of buildings
at the eastern extremity coming in to
break it's even surface. And you can
remember from the map how nearly
the ground plan of Heligoland, so to
call it, approximates triangle drawn
by a mathematician on the blackboard.
Unless he has been told the contrary
by travelled friends, the stranger to
Heligoland is prone to think of it as
barren, rather quaint little place.
with a fine bathing beach, and proba-
bly, rickety barracks of a summer ho-
tel. But that first glimpse of the
brightly colored island goes far to dis
pei ones preconceived gloomy ideas.
What is more, a walk on the breezy
summit Of the cliffs or through the odd
streets of the town itself turns those
mistaken notions into a feeling of great
delight and dissatisfaction over ones
cleverness in planning the Heligoland
trip in the first place.
The steamer is met by a swarm of
rowboats with artists models disguised
as fishermen for the proDelling force;
and in these craft you are ferried to
the shore. AS you go, you have time
to notice the sandy islet opposite your
destination, called 1.-The Duen." with
its befagged pavilion and rows of
green bathing machines. You also NAV
wonder at the oars the men are using
mere strips sawed from pine trees. with
not much more distinction between
blade and handle. than existed when
the oars were bark and were growing
in the woods. In five minutes the
landing is reached, your light hand
luggage is lifted out, a small boy is
engaged as guide and porter. and in a
moment more you find yourself in the
midst of that part of Heligoland's capt.
tai which lies between the sea and the
cliffs
In local parlance this strip of beach is
called the 'Unterland." Here are lit
tie shops with queer stuffed fishes and
birds for sale, restaurants where the lin
en- is speckless and flowers adorn each
table, and a postoffice-once a cottage
the modest low gable of which is
adorned with an imperial eagle, all
scarlet and black on a gold ground,
which is funny for all it's splendor, be-
cause 1t is so enormous and the house
which it embellishes so very tiny. At
every turn you meet men from the
garrison-"marine artillery they are
called-Who wear a sailors uniform
with added rows of gold buttons on
the sleeves and fronts of their Jackets.
Not so frequently you may see a wo-
man in the strange shape, and enor-
nous size of whose headdress is to be
seen a trace Of the local distinctive
costume, now reserved for gala days
The street leading up from the land
ing ends abruptly against the face of
the cliff. In some apprehension for
your baggage, you look for the dimin-
utive guide and discover him halfway
up an immense staircase inclining up
to the right, which hitherto has been
entirely hidden, as you come up the
narrow street. Then you remember
that great part of the villages at
fractions lie on the high land above,
and therefore a climb is inevitable. If
one chooses to be luxurious, a steam
lift is near at hand to carry one up in
a few seconds, but the wiser plan is to
walk leisurely up the staircase proper.
A double row of large trees, growing in
some mysterious way out Of what is
apparently bare rock, shades the stair
case halfway up to the first landing.
A continuous stream of humanity is
pouring up and down the broad steps