The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-29

ming. Not that it will be severely
plain, but other styles promise to be
so deliberately trimmed that the plain
tailor-made affairs may seem in strong
contrast Braid trimming is particu-
larly suited to this prime favorite and
will be used more than any other va
riety. Occasionally one panel of the
skirt will be treated in this way, while
if braid is used on the costume at all
it invariably appears on the revers
and collar. In fact, braid, both SILK
and mohair, is undoubtedly the trim
ming which will be almost universal
on fall dresses. Skirts are decorated
at the foot and perhaps at the hips
with three to five rows. The seams
are covered with a narrow Wldth, 10
give height to a short skirt ana feS-
TONED rows are occasionally seen TAX AK
ing the place of the sitter straight
ones. Sleeves are trimmed with 1t
cross and lengthwise, and round the
epaulettes. One row forms belt, or
two rows trim a belt of the material.
Vests are trimmed in cross or length
wise rows, the narrow widths looking
best for this, or the vest has gradu-
ated frogs or loops with plain braid
rows elsewhere.
up the seams Braided vests in white,
green and tan cloth, as we'll as bril-
liant scarlet, will be very popular
Gilt soutache forms a truly elegant
trimming for this purpose, and is deS-
tined to be largely used. Mixed
tweeds and cheviots are ornamented
with mohair braid, the fancier gilt
being reserved for finer materials.
Square braided yokes of an irregular
shape are among the novelties. Jet,
spangles, silk and mohair braid are
the materials used in the composition
of these new and effective adjuncts.
A Partisan, blouse which had the
pleasure of seeing the other day has
a decided air Of originality about it.
The lining is close fitting and we'll
boned, and the back is snug, but the
over the belt. 1t opens on the left
side with three buttoned scallops. A
revived French fancy is a basque
piece showing below the belt. The
close sleeves are pointed.
A double breasted jacket is made Of
the finest blue kersey. 1t has a semi
tight fitting front with four large
and tight fitting back with strap
seams. There is tailor pocket at
either hip, and the sleeves are stitched
at the wrists in a deep scroll design.
The collar is high slashed, inlaid with
black velvet, and the lining is blue
ana black ShOt tafeta with fancy JAG
guard stripes. Another jacket is made
of ox-blood kersey with loose fly front
and tight fitting back. A narrow lap
seam extends up either side of front
and down the back From the edges
CT these seams all around are stripes
of one and one-fourth inch black braid
Ghree in a clusteD stitched in point
shape. These alternate at distance
OF about two inches and form a de-
cidedly unique trimming. 1t has a
regular coat collar and flap pockets at
the hips. The lining is plain black
satin
A black matelasse cape is made tight
back in mantle effect with a deep col
lar of lynx. White lynx bands also
trim the front edges to the sweep. 1t
has a sort of double inner vest, to
which is attached a long satin loop on
either side, forming rest for the
hands. The garment is lined with quilt
ed black satin.
Many of the thin fall jackets, COM
posed of either black or gray cloth,
have front Innings and facings, as also
celored velvet, such as cherry, light
blue or lavender. These velvet facings
are richly embroidered in narrow black
and gold braid
AS a rule this style of jacket does
not close in front, but is allowed to
remain open, displaying the interior
embroidery. Broad turned-back Louis
XIV cuffs are much approved of iii
this line
A semi-long sort of "visite" is also