New-York tribune., 1897-08-29
SUKVIVALS IN CANDIES.
CHI. .DuOOD DELICACIES OF A GENER.
ALTON AGO THAT ARE STILL
TO BE FOUND.
TO BE FOUND.


boxes bought at a high price from some ex-
pensive confectionery would doubtless open their
eyes in contempt if they could look back twenty
thirty years at the penny sweets Oh ina.
period And yet it Is the universal opinion OK
those who remember the delights Of that time
that the modern youngsters are to be pitied De-
cause they have never known the fasciha''ohS
Of some of the od-fashiOned candies Nearly
all Of these are still to be found somewhere IL
Is true. but only after diligent search, as one
would seek other antiquities. This. at least IS
true Of the city. where the newer styles nave
made most rapid progress 1t is necessary 10
hunt up small and long-established shops-Kept
preferably by CHEEKY old ladies-in the Oldest
and quaintest quarters Of the town in order 10
find ones candy acquaintances Of generation
ago In the country fashions have not altered
greatly. and the stock I'm trade of the village
confectioner is much the same now ever
On a recent expedition for the discovery and
recognition OF long forgotten specimens OF the
candy genus the writer ascertained with no
small pleasure that few Of the kinds are wholly
extinct There are still to be found the famous
jackson balls" although they are unknown by
that name in most places now. Made variously
Of lemon. peppermint or wintergreen. they are
as hard to-day as they were. and as
capable of resisting the sucking powers Of the
infantle purchaser Their chief merit lies in
the fact that one will last throughout an en-
tire day. and is thus a highly economical in
vestment, where finances must be considered.
1t seemed to the investigator. jealously watch
ing for any modern changes. that the size OF
the jackson balls had diminished. but 1t may
be that this was only the natural disappont-
n ent which meets all who revisit scenes or OBJ
jects of their youth. Upon reflection. it is prob
HIarlx hal
prove task sufficiently hard for childish
mouth.
Lady apples, candied and fastened upon the
ends OF sticks. have made their appearance
lately, and have been considered novelties by
many persons This is not 50: they merely
revivals. having been popular a quarter of a
century ago.
Long john" in the unwieldy sticks ard
with the identical tasteess gumminess of old.
survives in the country though the city tour
failed to produce it,
The customers for all these confections are
chiefly the children of the quiet, old fashioned
neighborhoods. belonging to families whose
means range from what is vaguely termed mod
crate circumstances down to what is very
nearly poverty. Fifth-ave. youngsters know
! little OF the penny" candy subject.
Then there is another class Of cheap candies
which is distinctly modern. and in many re-
srects lamentably decadent. 1t is to be found in
the lower East Side in abundance. 1t bears
every mark Of being composed of the humblest
grade of sugar and the most evil sort of coloring
matter albeit this latter is perhaps more inno-
cent than il appears. The names of the various
kinds ale characteristic. "Hogans Kid is
cfligy of a fat child in yellow sugar. with a
chocolate head and face "Hinky dinks" are
shapcless Jumps Of some hard substance, re-
markable for the brilliancy Of their red yellow
and green tints Pola~ and grizzly bears are
respectively white and brown. as their names
Indicate and are crusted over with an outer
LAYER Of sparkling sugar. There are chocolate
"darkies" and chocolate mice and jujube-pasts
men Of many colors. Bartlett pears are
rather small for representatives Of that kind OF
fruit but they are Of beautiful yellow sugar
generously tinted with red to indicate theh
ripeness "All nations pasty-loolling con.
fcctions in the shape Of round faces. the feat
ures of which are supposed to portray the dif-
ferent nationallties. The fact that it is some-
what difficult to max the proper distnctions
may be due to a lack Of artistic ability on the
part of the d signer or it may be that in the
melting and hardening Of the candy the find
lines and shadngs unaycidably lost
I.corice comes a the shape If coils of blacA
wire. wound on reels ard fastened at each end
with a huge motto lozenge. But the most inn
nressiye and fearsome candy connection of the
East Side is that known "Old Reliable Beef
steak" This comes in fat slabs about eight
inches long 10y three or four wide. with rounded
corners. or it is sometimes irregular in shape.
more nearly to counterfeit piece If meat 1t
has strcaks Of white. pink and brown running,
through it in artistic confusion. presumably in