The age-herald., 1897-10-10
 IN GERNANY'S OUTER POST heligoland, the Queen IsIet in the Rough North Sea, : WHERE ALI IS DlMINuTIVE -. Save the Cliffs, Stairways and Cannon, and Girls Slide Down One Hundred
 and Ninety Feet
From the Hartford caurlainlt.

| dibt uOuDI 7aflS6S as 10 Wneuner 1alprl,
 with all dts. beauty, is really the faireclt
 dsfand in Europe.
 At l.ha waters edge, elsarcely to be dis
 tanguSsbed from the lime of surf, is to be
 seen a marrow strip eff snowy beach, A few yards back from ithe sea, r.sang ab-
 ruptly to a height of some 200 feet, '.ower | cliffs of a dull red color ssreakej wfi.h
 white. Nor are there any vines or grasses
 to take from the impresssop of boldnsxs
 and ruggednesa which the massive walls
 produce. Above Ghe cliffs is an almost
 perfectly fiau table5ant of vivid gIlsen,
 and i'm one corner iIhe listls village. just
 ready to tum'ble over the brink eff ihe
 preclraces into the surf below. One is
 struck at once by uhe sharpness and
 regularity of the islands outlines-once
 more like a gem in its perfect cutting
 and finish. The cliffs rise 10 an appar-
 entity equal height ail round the place;
 and, as far as one can judge, are ex- | aatly pertpendiculalT. Again, the plain l above them is as lsvel ats lamd ever can | be, only the irregular group of build 1 ings at the elaltsern extremity com ng in | to break i.s even surface. And you can l remember from the map how nearly the l ground plan of Heligolsnd, so to caal 1t, | approximates al triangle drawn by a
 mathematician on the blackboard. l Unless he has been told the con:rary | by traveled friends, tibe stranger to HeE- | goland is prone to thInx of it as a barren | and rather quaint little place, with a fine
 balbhing beach, and probably rickety l barracks of a summer hotel. But tha,. | first glimpse of the brightly cclored l island goes far to dtspel ones precon- | ceived gloomy ideas. What is more, a l walk on the breezy summtt of the cliffs, or through the odd q l'eets cf the town l itself, turns thcse mistaken notions Isito of 7o1f cnf | faction over oneis cleverness in pGaEm ng 1 the Heligoland t;rip in ltlle first place. The SIteamer is met by a swarm of row boats with artist models disguised as | fishermen for the propellhng force; and | in these crafts you are ferried to the | shore. LAS you go, you have time to mo- | tee the sandy islet opposite your dsgti-
 nation, called "The Duen, with Its be- 1 flagg'ed pavilion and rows of green bath | ing machines. You also may wonder at 1 the oars The men are using-mere strips | sawed from pine trees, with mot much more distinction between blade and han | dle than existed when the cars wore
 bark alnId were grwoing dn the woods. | In five minutes tine landing Is reaohed, | your light hand luggage is lifted out, small boy is engaged as guide and porter, | and in a moment more you find yourself | in lthe midst of that part of Heligoland's | capital which lies bs,-ween the sea and | the cliffs.
 | Tn local pal1ance tf1l,s strip of beach is
 caAled the "Unterland.'' Here are little | shops with queer stuffed fishes and birds | for sale, restaurants where the linen is | ypeckless amid flowers adorn each table, 1 and postoffice-once "a cottag age-the | modest low gable of which is adorned | with an Imperial eagle, all soar1et and
 black on a gold ground, which is furlny | for a1l its Eplendor, because it is so enor- | nous and ilhe house which 1t embell shes
 so very tiny. At every turn you meet men from the garrison-''nBaririe art,llery"
 thsy are callled-who wear sailors
 uniform With added rows of gold buttons
 on the sleeves and fron'rs of eheir jack | cts. Not 50 frequensl1 you may see a l wcmarl in the strange shape and enor- | mous size of whose hsaddress irs to be | seem a trace of the local distinctive CO.'S | isune, now reserved for gala days.
 The street leading up from the ca-Nd.ng | ends abruptly agailf=,t the face of the
 cliff. In some apprehension for your
 baggage, you look for the diminhtive 1 guide and discover him half way up an 1 immense staircase inclinang up to the l righS, which hitherto has been entirely | hidden, as you come up the marrow street. Thsn you remember that a great part of the villages a,ttractions lie on the | high land above, and ',herfore climb is | inevitable. If ore chooses to be luxur- l ious, a steam lift is near at hand to l carry one up in a few seconds, but the wiser plan is ito walk leisureFy up the | staircase proper. A double row of large 1 trees growing in some mys. erious way | out of what is apparently bare rock, l shades the staircase half way up to the l first landing. continuous sItream of | humanity iS pouring up and down the l broad steps-sailors, tourists and natives, | the latter scramlbling up att pace kill | ang to the stranger, and sliding down | again on the railing, with one foot for a
 brake You cam stand that kind of per l formance in any one mot yet in long l trousers, but when you sec an aTicient | mariner or a young lady going to fhe | dressmaker's slidirg down the banister
 of staircase 190 feet high, you can 1 only wonder.
 | While that part of Hel.gcland sitra.ed
 at high water mark on the beach is very
 attractive, he who naglects 10 scala the | cliffs and visit what is locally called the seeing on the is5and Tt is sometimes said that water views are much the l same the world over, but the intense | green of Ithe turf, the red of the cliffs,
 and the blue-gray of the sea present picture worthy "a place in memory's | most crowded gallery. And if one does | not care for scenery there will be found 1 a great deal of inderesi, in looking at the | great dormed barbettes, half under | ground, each carrying in the sight of all
 am immense lcannon, bright yellow in
 color, and of perhaps ten inches bore Here, too, may be seen the drill of the | marine ar'illery," who are always busy | with a row of asSorted guns-two ordi-
 
 | or similar repeating machine guns
 If you wish to see the military side of
 Heligoland in peace have your camera at
 home, or you may find out that all un- l willingly you are what the frequent
 sigfs denomsnate, "a betrayer of mili-
 tary secrets" and itherfore a. case for
 ransom by the nearest American consul. This is tine advice of one who innocenltly
 carried his kodak with him On Stroll | along the sea wall, under the turf slopes | of the notifications. He was immediate | Iy halted by an imposing gendarme, who l remarked that ''the right ito make photo | graphs in that place under lawful fine and tmprisonmept forbidden was" and
 so warmed, was dogged all the afternoon
 by that kings sword bearer" as we'll | as scrutnized ard questioned by an ar l tilfery officer on whose sensib7lities the | black leather case had an effect akin to I fhat or the fraditsonal red rag on the I bull,
 1b is curious 10 note how slowly the | traces of England's suzeranjty over Helf-