The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-07-04

and down every waist they have. An
! ether popular idea with them is tc
make a sunburst back. This is, with
ribbons or beading. to run ray-like
| lines, of varying lengths. from the
waist lire I'D as high as the shoulder
/ blades.
! But remember that the wee frills are
first in the hearts of our countrywom-
/ en- and that next in their affection is a
material called grenadine, but made of
! silk and wool interviewer and invari-
ably colored in medium checks of two
shades of brown, or two Of green.
! Then. too, a word as to sashes. There
is always a last word to be said of
these pretty streamers, that now are
made often Of chiffon and knotted ex-
actly on the high hip. In fact all waist
bands, except leather belts, must fasten
there, and, to know the exact spot on
which to adjust the knot, you must
let your left arm hang by your side.
Then set the knot exactly opposite your
elbow on the jut of the hipbone and go
your way rejoicing.
BLACK SWISS.
If there is any one material that is
scoring more triuTnpfs this hot weather
than any other it is black swiss mus
lin. They tell you in the shops that this
has becomes the fashion since the ter
rible Paris fire. and that all the ladies
of quality in France are wearing it for
summer mourning, with yards and
yards of crepe de chine ribbon. But
our aristocracy is happily not in uni
versal mourning, so they are wearing
black swiss over white silk slips, and
sashes of crepe ribbon, which looks
very like creped chiffon. Of course the
muslin is tortured into ruffles, and is
very much plated, and one and all
these skirts are Shirred about the hips.
One dressmaker of taste gave il out for
the benefit of customer that the best
way 10 hang a summer skirt is TO cut
il out in three, four or five perfectly
straight widths. These must be sewed
up, sewage to selvage, and then rows
of shirring. or cording. or clusters of
perpendicular tucks introduced at one
end
BY this simple means the skirt, from
the hips down, hangs full and even,
and no goring is necessary. Another
fantasy of the dressmakers this late
in the day is that of tucking silk
waists on the bias. Tucks behind and
before, tucked yokes and tucked sleeves
we have had ad nauseam. and now,
by way OF relief, the needlewccnan
either lays tucks in a waist front from
the right shoulder to left side of the
waist all across the bust. or she lays
her goods on the bias and proceeds |
then to tuck it. The effect is surely
pleasing, but the last named method
must be done by hand, else the goods +
viii pull and the work be spoiled. The |
tucks can be as wide or narrow as !
dictates, and the whim now |
is TO tuck the back in the opposite di- |
rection, that is, from the left shoulder |
down to the right hip-"coTkscrew |
tucking." This is very appropriately |
called.
We never know what time may bring
forth and what contradictions we may
be guilty Of in the name of fashion.
This moralizatfon is inspired by the
sight os many lovely women. whose
taste is above reproach, wearing their I
morning ginghams open Just a little
II the throat. a year ago We would
nave said. How shocking. how I'M
SMART" SO today we are saying. How
sweet! how becOming," and it is both.
Now. by open IS not meant decollete.
out just opening in a point beneath
he chin q half a fingers length, to
show the pretty neck and where il
crows into the shoulders. The opening
S only in front, and il is either % tiny
quare, into which could be hardly fit
ed 4 visiting card Or V. about as
vide as can be made by opening two
myers.
At back and sides the neck is fin
shed fat and some women wear neck
cts of soft chiffon with gowns cut
his way. In the dog days a delightful
ense CT cool ease is enjoyed in these
morning suits. and the open throat is
perfectly natural reaction from the
everaI seasons of choking collars, pro-
igious ruffs and such like enormities.
But If the women are sust learning
0 be cool and comfortable they have
ever denied that right to the chill ,
rem. See the sketch, for example. of
little boys travelling cloak 1t is u