The times., 1897-11-14

New York. Nov. I3.--Whatever cause of
Thanksgiving may occur TO the American
man az this season of gratitude-whether
financial. political or sentimental the heart
OF the a merican girl thrills with thankful
hess for the pretty gowns in her wardrobe
and the picture hats in her bandboxes
There are gallant gentlemen VINO have
been quoted as saying that their greatest
source OF tbankf fulness is the American gir!
herself, but onc tremhles to think what
that same winsome maiden would be with
out tie art Of the nlaliner and modiste
IL might, therefore, be more correct for
both tie adnirer and the admired 10 turn
tueir thoughts in grateful mood toward
the makers anG designers OF fine clothes,
for here.a lies tie very source OF joy TO
both.
II L were 10 choose what I'd rather be
than a football champion on Thanksgiving
Day / should say fairly good looking
American girl with lots OF cash and good
nhlliner. What creations / should
wear Yes, il would without doubt, De bet
teT uhan the Kicking hero's broken nose
and chrysanthenWm wig, with all his glory
Thrown il L. boot
I'm, things that woman can buy In
the shops for cash cause many pang To
the heart of ifer who has IL not, yet, such
Is the consideration as Well as the wisdom
OF tie dealer, that he has provided manyde-
sirabie dainlies that are within the reach
Of the average purse.
A tat, TOT instance, which would other
wise cost $15, may be modified by the use
AZ nome oT The material OF the dress WIKI
which It is worn and last yeai Tea tlie;a
unul its price is less than So Soft silE
crowns with velvet brims are extremely
popular. and there are thrifty women wl;a
have had their hats mace with rci.ovatle
Crowns TWO or three u match each dress.
TEis Is easily managed witha Tam o Shan
ter crown over one of those mats with tie
narrow sOove-f'ipe tops. The soft crown
II shnlly snpred over the stuff one ana
faslenc,t ia place with black pins No one
has learnd the art OF millinery, by the
way. agLo does not understand the use
OF pins. For hnocEabout wear, plaid silk
crowus and felt frims are very service
able. bicycle mats consist merely OF a
plaid crown sewed To q land. WIN GUN
standing up 1T the left side.
While we are On Tie subject Of millinery,
here ls q good suggestion for Tying q bow
In the sirst place, no bow is complete with
oct q wire tape 10 k eep he loops in place.
One also requires some fine wire for the
process Of tying an artistic bow. Seize
the nbDon near the end-I SAY seize advised
lA, Tor i-lthing bat firm grasp is equiaite
10 the Iy-inE OF q how-ieaying enough 10
form an end Gf proper length. The rib
bon should tie laid il tiny pIeats al The
point where The fingers lay hold On both
sides OF tie loop. Having formed one loop
OF the desired length, wind it tightly just
al the edge Cf the fingers with the tire
wire aforementioned. Then make an
other loop, anu secure II with wire in ,he
same way. and as many more as may be
desired. after which they may be ali tied
together with d knot formed by the two
ends.
ThC loops may afterwards be cut open
II mole ends are desired. In making he
bow, strip Of narrow Wire tape sburld
be heid in the center of the ribbon, carried
through the loops on the inside, and
wound with the Iine wire in the sa ne
manner as the outer nbbon- When loops
az cW open, the wire can be cut off
Close 10 the base, where the ends viii
not show.
g-eat deal OF jet and other jeweled
materials are used in blessing hats. one
very stunning piece of headgear mas a
wide turned up hrim, faced with scales
of leaf jet and trimmed with large Jet
balls poised all around the edge of the
bIIn.. Jetued and Jeweied velvet crowns
are also used Tiny. velvet-cUvered tur
bans have been provided for those who
dr. no. look well in the Gainsborough.
set on the front OF the crown are suf-
ficient trimming OF some velvet loops may
be used with lack digrettes, where fearh-
ers might be found troublesome on damp
DAYS. Such a LAT with a lambs wool s3ton
jacket makes pretty combination. The
prettiest Etous fasten al the side with two
large frogs, and have either one reyer or
else TWO Of different sizes. The single
rever is a verypCpuiaI trimming especial
Is the one that stands straight out in a sort
OF ripple from shoulder u waist.
Cossack jackets with high fur collar
and one eOod-sizec fur lapel are warm
and servicesble winter wraps. velvet
tOque with q bird IL the front goes nicely
with them. BRAID. stripes, aud tucks are
almost Invariably laid horizontally, and no
exception is made IN the case OF the blouse
Jacket. A very pretty jacket has rows II
braid fesHooned around bodice, basque, and
sleeves. II fastens at the left side, and has
a long fur lapel and Medici collar.
The dancing and reception girl has
taken Il he plastrOn- The bodice under
Leath is usually pleated gauze. and the
pleTron, which may be merely q plain
breastplate, or may be slashed ia any sort
OF scailops and tabs is made OF heavily
embroidered velvet. These bluuses make
pretty theater waists one that glittered
from the front seat OF d box the other night
had a blue chiffon under bodice, with q
black velvet plastron heavily embroidered
IN gold braid TIE sleeves were black
velvet, with blue chiffon at the wrists
Black and white is having its usual run
OF popularity. There was a black and white
stripe waist in the box beside the one Just
described 1t was trimmed with collar OF
duchesse lace. There was a black velvet
bonne' toniatcli with white feathers,
Muffs are heavily trimmed with tai.s
There are some made Of tile Whole skin,
which look al il the animal had oblig-
ingly rolled himself into a ball around
the HANDS of the owner, and one begins
20 imagine what sort Of muff her lady
ships terrier would make rolled up in a
tall with his tail in his mouth
German Servant Girls.
There is an organization in Germany
known as the Housewives Union,
which deeOtes itself % the servant girl
nueetion IL has nlac.ss for the train