The record-union., 1897-01-17


be varied indefinitely A strap of rib
bon passing over the shoulders forms
short brace on each side, and these
straps are Joined by ribbon that
crosses the figure horizontally. Ro-
settles of ribbon conceal the joining,
and thus the Pompadour collarette Is
formed, and insertions Of ribbon and
lace are added to the yoke part and
frills of chiffon or lace to it's edge.
Drab is one of the seasons favored
colors. The French call it winter
sky, but this is too poetic a title for
its uncompromising dull metallic tone.
1t is not like soft nuns gray, swallow
gray, silver, dove, fawn or anything
as delicate and dainty. Drab is not a
becoming color on it's own merits. We
associate it with the coats and gowns
Of the Quakers, when far stricter in
sectarian and dress matters than they
are now, and with the old Puritan
drivers of the defunct stage coach, with
their many capped long drab coats. But
a French mOdiste can easily make a
gown of beauty out of even drab cloth.
She combines it with black and Dan
ish or Spanish or British red, SO art
istically and deftly that the dowdy
dress of drab becomes in the hands of
this sartOrial prestidigi itator triumph
ant success. Set it against, for exam
pie, one of the black-ribbed gowns of
cloth with a black and white vest, and
brick-red velvet toque en- suite and
rivalry there is none between the two.
The top one is vulgar and provokingly
nc 3,<.;.a
and eminently attractive, but quiet
withal. Another fancy of the French
woman combines the drab material
with cream cloth accessories braided in
gold or striped with the narrowest lines
of red and gold braid laid side by side.
The tailor costumes for utility pur-
poses-shopping, travelling, walking
etc.-are made with skirts that just
clear the ground all around, either in
gored shape or in modified circular form.
Soft but rough surfaced boucle fabrics,
leather-mixed silk and wool tweedS,
wide-wale diagonals, English serges and
cheviots, usually IN black with a color,
are used for these suits. The trim little
coat en- suite looks unequal to the matter
chilling vicissitudes of the wintry
weather, but most of these small inef-
fectual looking garments are thicklyin-
terlined with chamois, wool batting, or
other protective fabric. Many of the
coats show little or no fur trimming.
even on the collar and revers. The en-
tire suit is simply machine stitched or
finished at most with rows of narrow
braid. But accompanying these cos
tunes are large collarettes of some sort
of dark fur, not few having long mar
row stole fronts. This collarette is not
fashioned to the coat, but is independent
of it and to be worn with any other
street suit. The Jackets worn with these
suits are at least degree more protec-
tive in looks than the bolero costumes
mentioned further on.
The long fashionable and serviceable
fawn- brown and pale tan gloves which
accommodated themselves so well to all
sorts and conditions of street costumes
and evening toilets as well-harmoniZ-
ing so agreeably with every tint and
tone of gown-are this season rivalled by
a host of very conspicuous shades and
tints-red in many dyes, green, violet,
orange blue, and garnet for day uses.
with reproductions in much paler shades
of these coIors for evening wear. Most
of the buttons are large and snowy and
the silk machine stitching in striking
contrast to the color of the glove. The
yelvety Suede gloves for evening wear
match the color of the dress trimmings,
nd rpiy, nj hoj n O
worn when deep cream lace is the gar
niture of the dress, flesh and cameo
pink when rose-colOred chiffon is chosen
Spanish yellow gloves with ecru guip-
ure lace, cream hite gloves with white
accessories, etc. This is the general
rule; therefore those who aim to dress
exactly contrary to prevailing modes
now select gloves that match the color
of the gown itself and not it's decora-
tions.
The general tendency Is to discard all
stiff interlinings on the newest gowns.
This does very well where one can afford
a crisp taffeta silk lining in each new
dress, but when this is not possible not
a few women are protesting against the
line lining, with no sort of interlining
added even as a facing. They argue,
and Justly SO, that a skirt so finished has
a lank unstylish appearance especially
if of soft wool fabric) after the SO recent
vogue of interlned undulating skirts
with a crisp flare and a certain cachet
wholly absent in a soft-lined model
whose folds or breadths fall limp around
the feet like those of a Quakeress. There
are a number of fashionable modistes
who have come to the rescue in this
matter. They make an underskfrt near
ly as long as the dress skirt, employing
crinoline, haircloth, moreen, etc, as may
be preferred for the foundation. This
! skirt can be covered with silk of some
dark shades, and If we'll cared for will
last a long time This skirt is gored on
the front and sides, with a deep fiounce
shirred or box plated ruffies at the
back are run through the inch-hem at
their edges with a single band of
featherbone. Worn under the dress, all
the slightly faring effect of an interlined
skirt is given.
This winter an altogether new and
very elegant invoice of dress garnitures
is exhibited, the list including superb
embroideries and galloons in novel de-
vices manufactured in Paris and vi
emma, and among these are shown the
most beautiful jeweled effects in Per-
sian colorings mingled with gold and
bronze trellis patterns and Byzantine
ara Suues in pearl opal gold and
cashmere beads; Greek designs in silk
cord and cut velvet bolero, Russian and
other short Jackets formed of these same