The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1897-04-04

iC
1t is a thing to be thankful for that
the trim, simple, elegant tailor cos
tune never goes out of fashion. Its
minor details and features may vary
from year to year, the skirt grow fuller
or narrower, the coat longer or shorter,
but the general idea remains. Through
all the chances and changes the sensi-
BILE fundamental principle is left unal-
tered This season the coat is very
short and smart in effect, but trifie
longer than those of the past winter,
only in certain materials and for GER
tain figures. The spring and summer
skirt models are almost, if not absolute
perfection in their lengths, varied
shapes and modified widths, and for
utility gowns-shopping, travelling, cy-
cling, etc-serge and mohair remain
the favored materials. If there was
ever a time in the history of dress when
women might be content with what
they have, it is now, when fashion has
reached the acme of all that is grace
full, normal and harmonious in outline,
coloring and effect. All this is beau
tifully illustrated in the great domain
of dress. In millinery We behold al
present the most hideous, startling mo-
dels, exhibited in every shop window
and fashionable emporium, that are
tangible expressions and proofs of de-
plorable and astonishing French de-
mentia worthy the close consideration
and study of brain specialists.
The possibilities of grass linen are not
by any means exhausted, for in either
the plain or fancy varieties it is a val
liable material that can be converted
into simple morning dresses or waists
or into very charming toilets worthy OF
the most dressy occasion. There are
many colors that contrast effectively
with it, and there are also some odd
striking shades employed in making the
foundation skirt and bodice, but the
prettiest choice for silk or lawn under
slips is pink, mauve or green.
Womans browning glory-her Easter
bonnet-is now an engrossing study.
One can hardly be accused Of using
slang in saying that the cartwheel
hats are this season a blooming sue
cess for they look more like a subur-
ban grass plot decoration in full
growth and blossom than anything else
they can well be compared to.
All the pretty spring capes are very
short, very full, and very much trimmed
Many of the charming summer models
are shaped with long Spanish scar
ends, sash ribbons often being substi-
tuted for the material composing the
cape. There are also tulle, net and
IF with deer
hem mad finished with insertion bands
of lace or a fine vine embroidery. Again
they are bordered with an accordion
pleated frill of the airy fabric which
either forms the entire cape or its trim
ming. The lengthening of the cape or
the immediate front renders it far more
becoming to a wearer of low stature
than a simple circular; and moderate
" tall. graceful woman who adopts the
cape with stole ends looks most pictur-
esuue in the airy wrap, provided, OF
course, the rest of her toilet is made tC
accord with it. a very large portion OF
the thin summer gowns will be made
with Marie Antoinette fichu or other
style of cape or bertha en- suite.
The graceful French pelerine with
scarf ends and the picturesque Marie
Antoinette fichu complete very many
of the prettiest models for summer toll
cts received from French designers
They are made of material matching
the gown, as a rule, and dainty Liberty
satins rich of surface but light II
weight, India musIins, Powered surahS
and organizes, plain and Fancy gren-
adines, batistes and grass linens are
among the favored textiles used II
making these tempting, poetic lace
trimmed gowns.
The mohairs, bures. canvas goods
and other gowns of this description are
this season, almost without exception
made with high centuries and short
Eaton or bolero jackets. We rarely
see a fashion so universal as this par
ticIllar one has become, and it Will I'M
doubtedly extend through the entire
summer season. The boleros are fin
ished yariously with braiding, narrow
gimp or ribbons in rows, insertion lace
and edgings, ruches, or tabled edges
Other jackets have very elaborate col
lars of batiste or silky grass-linen en-
broidered in ficelle or finished simply
with fine accordion pleated lace-edgeC
frills.
Sleeves on covert cloth and other
spring jackets are smaller, but shaped
much like those of past seasons. They
are gathered not pleate6, into the
armhole, and the pulled portion is
much broader in effect than it is deep
There are many new sleeve patterns
sent out by various designers that cut
over very successfully the huge shapes
of year ago. The backs of the new
jackets are tight-fitting, with full bu
not fiaring skirts, merely giving &
pretty curve in at the waist.
The black and white striped fabric:
in wool and silk and wool mixtures
which impart length and slenderness L
the figure, are greatly in favor, ant
while they are plain and simple il
style they have smart and lady-1ik'
appearance, showing an untrimmet
skirt with narrow front breadth. well
gored sides, and the fullness in a small
space at the back. A close-fittins