davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

crown is we'll covered with flowers, and bows of striped ribbon, combined with plain, stand jauntily up at tho center. Ties of ribbon form bow under the chin, but many were worn both for evening and afternoon dress occasions that were mere bouquets fastened to the hair with 6 pin. The plain sleeves still held. and tho sleeve bodice. With them only bonnet or small hat was i'll taste Hats had not yet come into style for matrons of mature years. Hats were wern only for the promenade even by the young, and every woman demanded a bonnet for ceremonious occasions at least. But emancipation from the bon net was not to be long delayed. Light, plain sleeves were already giving place to fuller ones, and tendency to aug ment the trimmings for the head and shoulders and to simplify the skirts was apparent. Accordingly the next five years show q wide divergence iii sttyyiie sttyy iie, and we find both bodices and hats great ly changed.
 h 1891 hats had gained q decided vogue, and women of all ages were to be seen, as they have been since, wear ing iaunty and elaborate hats that re tained not so much as the narrowest tie to hint of the bonnet. Strings had by that time come to be regarded both as uncomfortable and, far worse, as adding to the apparent age. Hence strings were fofsVorn and hats gay with flowers and feathers held first place. Bonnets, or headdresscs ,dignified by the name, were, to be sure, worn upon evening oc- easions by many who held them alone to be correct. But the hat had gained
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11
above all things,

height of elegance, and, perchcd upon the huge monstrosity, was worn tiny hat that perforcc was tip tilted until it appeared to be in jeopardy, and certain ly threatened to slip down upon the nose. Tipsy" was the name given to the fayorito shape, and fashion articles of the day speak of it as jaunty, while, small as it was, flowers, ribbon and tulle all went into it's make up.
 Five years later demure bonnets that sat we'll back upon the head, showing the waved hair. and with strings that tied ill bowlinot under the chin, were correct even for young girls. The saucy air of the gypsy had given place to.a quieter style, and no ono thought of be- ing so frivolous as to tilt hat or even to wear one for dress occasions if she had been graduated from the school room. Bonnets were the style. Hats were relegated to children or to misses
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

Straw was given second place. Every one who could aimed to wear chip, which was light i'll weight, varied ill color, soft and pliable. Evening bonnets were often all of flowers, single wreath eneirclingt the head and beld ill place by mass of tulle ill tho form of ties being a favorito style. But throughout all the variations certain demureness was ever apparent. There were no way
 ing plumcs nor Eodding flowers. Every thing was planned to set closely to the head, and the bonnet swas so kept in harmony with the small, tight sleeves
 and the trim, plain bcdices.
 By tho time another five years had passed, ill tho spring of 1881, fashion
 was eager for another change, and the 'Bernhardt poke had appeared. Being named for the great actress, the style was necessarily chic, but, compared with
 the creations that are now being made i'll her name, it is tame i'll the extreme. Chip appears to have still held first place, and flowers. combined with fcath- CTS, to have been Il combination much | in vogue. A typical hat of the period, Ishown i'll the illustration, is described as brown chip, trimmed with yellow Goppies and ostrich tips shading from r F E
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

upon the worn- alf horizon and holds her spell bound, be she @Pse advanced or ever SO ardent an advocate of re- form, and q study ofZsueh as have been presented fer the past quar- ter of il century
 becomes as di- yerting as it is instructive. Only as far back as 1871 tho mon stroas waterfall was held the
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

placed Mayhap we shall yet return to the waterfall and the tilted trific set at all anglo with tho head even as we are now approaching tight sleeves and trim med skirts. But ,leeencracy can surely never reach the depth Of forcing us7 to use crude colcr or rob Us of the lessons WIG have learned Ribbons, silks, flow CTS, straws themselves, arc beautiful simply becauso2of thcir delightful hue
 Let shapes and combillataon change as. they will, the art of the dyer must s!Ees ly remain. {2zs1zk 1z|l{
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

its place, and al-
 ready the shadow
 of that creation which was to call fer drless,islative Z, re- form was cast.
 As yet the hats were modest i'll size. A favorite shape rolled back off the face and turned up at the back, leaving the crown flat. The general style was fer bigger models
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

than those that had gone before. Shout ders had been broadened by full sleeves and bodices amplified ill many ways. With them came also the hat which gave an air of youthfulness to the wear CT and defied the observer to mark the passage of time. Few women, except those ill mourning aud the unquestion- ably elderly danes, wore bonnets for promenade. Chic little affairs, all lace and nonsense, with nodding flowers and tantalizing aigrets, were indeed affected by many for evening wear, but even these showed no strings and were mere fancy bits made as decorative as could be. The hat Of the season was q hat--a hat of generous size, of unlimited pos abilities and ono that asserted it's claim net into deepest shade.
 For this present Easter NC lave flow CTS such as never were seen before-- flowers true to nature and fascinating i'll the extreme. Roses 5cll nlassc mako the garniture of one importation, peoples erect and assertiye of another, and such delicious chrysanthemums cf q third as seem to hayc been pluckcd but all hour before. The feature of the season IS massed flowers. Whether they be roses or what not, they are hunchcd together | ill profusion and seem to De almost crushed so closely are they packed.
 h other matters we may not have i'm proved, but i'll color we are assuredly asl nearly perfect as can Bc. The lovely tints of the roso and the delicious grada-
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

from Nirot CT to exclainl ever tkc loveliness of q dream ill tipts of rose executed by some other Pa risian authority on bonnets, it be- comes peculiarly instructive to re- view the past and [. ponder upon the eeneeits and faneies that clio ited s i'm il a T 2" o hs and Ans P from our own lips a decade
 back and from
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11
Sports at Easter Time.

NICE the begin ming of the c Il Il rc Ii sports and games have characterized the E q s t CT observ- ance. In this country we are familiar with the egg gg ro1lin g g. games on Easter Monday on the White H Q Il SC grounds in Wash lngtcn, but i'll
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

under IS and were not seen again upon na- ture heads for a decade or more. L ace, flowers, fe a t Il ers- all went into the make up of one geod specimen, and blossoms of all sorts were
 made to cluster round the face. Iii fact, chip, the fayoritc materi- al, and those s . m c flowers made the feature of the time.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11
The Present. Easter Hat.
[Copyris sht, 1891, by the Author. ]

ICopyrisht, loJl, by the Author.I
 It is doubtful if there be any one ex- perience better calculated to impress the feminine rind with it's own capacity sor folly han areview of past fashions. At this season, when, one and all, we are ready te admire the latest creation
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

tions of tone shown ill all tho flowers are in themselves fea- lures of which to boast. A review of the bonnets of the past might well teach us hu- mility, if nothing more. But, let the future devel- RYiliiU IL may, it seems difficult to imagine tho tints of 1897 i'm proved o1. dis
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11
THE EASTER BONNET.
ITS MUTATIONS AND ITS MARvELS
 FOR TWENTY-FIVE YEARS PAST.

Glance Backward to the Days of the "waterfall"- The yagaries ofstyle-How Shapes and Combinations Have Changed. The Present Faster flat.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

ing liko old friends Hc had lived here G0 years, he told me--ever since he had run away from an English ship-and had never left his homo fer a single night. His little farm had cost him al- most not!iing. his vents were few, and from the soil he had obtained aa easy though frugal living
 IL did not ts..ke ne len2 to detect be- heath his rude cs,tclier enc of nature s nohlemel, md, warmed ly tho kindly glcam of his eyes seen had told him of my present tlyable He locked mo
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

jonquil yellow to pale brown.' It is noticeable that face trirslaings had dis appeared. Bigger hats-hats that were. head eeverings-had come i'll, and the trimming was placed upon the outside of the crown.
 In 1886 there came . revival of the flower hat True to the adage claims that fashions run in cycles, the year saw a return to the styles of ten years pre- vious, with always such variations as modistes know how to incorporate Be ing shrewd folk, they never permit an exact replica, but there is nevertheless a similarity between the bonnets of 1876 and those of 1886. Less of the demure element is to be found, to be sure, and
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

the ribbons and flowers had as- sumed 8 more pert and jaunty air. But flowers were the feature of both, and drcss bonnets, m a q 0 entirely of yio- lets or other bios sons, were again ill vogue. Tho one chosen for il- lustratien is of straw..Ghip had fallen into disuse and has not since ttaa taken klsen any pronli- ncn .nIacn Tho
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1897-04-11

Q RELIGIOUS fes-
 tival has gained so much ill favor with
 the c Il s t i a Il
 churches this
Birmingham state herald., 1897-05-30

not be duplicated anywhere at the same price. It w.1 pay you to look at our Childfen's Suits I~,-,rr'
Birmingham state herald., 1897-05-30

Mems roc colored border Handker- chiefs, 3 cents.
 Men 15c colored border Handker- chiefs, cents.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
BIo HAWIEY. TINE BIAoKMAnER
Trial OF the Netorious Crook Tor His Attempt
on Samuel w. Hridrbnm.

On the trial yesterday Of William Carroll
woodward, alias big Hawlcy, a notorious crook
indicted on a charge Of attempting to black
mail samuel w. BRIGHAM. son.in.law Of VII.
liam Z. Schermerhorn, the banker, three experts
IN handwriting testified In the criminal branch
or the supreme Court yesterday that a black
mailing letter which had been written to Mr..
lridgham was written by the same person who
wrote the letter from the Tombs prison TO Mrs.
l'riuRham. Bis Hnwloy admitted having writ
ten the Tombs letter.
lie was indicted in May last with q woman
who posed as an injured wife and with a myth
cal James Ward, who. as her husband. brought
a suit against Mr.. Brigham for 100000.
Big Haw!cy, 1t is alleged. is the only James
Ward in the case.
Tho legal papers in tho suit brought by the
alleged blackmailcrs against Mr.. Brigham
were introduced In evidence.
james Darg, who had been employed as n
clerk in the Office of James l.. Brown, the law
yer under indictment with Hawley, was called
To- tne witness stand. and TESTIFIED th na1 LAW y
go West Twcnty-thlrd street.
oo,Mar,; Brown spent very, little -, u me az drr n,s
brigham he disappeared. and never heard
the tai about indictinG Brown was on that
Brown disappeared
The witness remembered seeing James WS.ch,
mailers. Wclch was n frequent visitor to
Browns office with Big. Hawley.
Bridgham's counsel, Franklin Bartlett was
tho next witness called. He told how, Mr..
Pridgham had visited his office and spoke to
him about tho civil suit.
II told Lawyer Brown" said Mr.. Bartlett,
that l believed tho case to be one OF black.
mail and conspiracy, and added that my client
| snid: Brown, these people, Ward and his wife,
will find Themselves in state, prison
The witness. continuing. said that Brown said
he was much alarmed by the answer put In in
tho suit. On Muy 20. Mr.. Bartlett continued,
Brown visited his office and asked for money,
agreeing to settle the case for $25 200, and
then dropping to $4,000
When / asked him where his client lived"
said Mr.. Bartlett, "he said he did not know,
but ho believed he lived in Buffalo"
Lawyer Atchison; who appeared for Big Haw-
ley, cross-examined Mr.. Bartlett, hut his cross
examination brought out nothing new. He
asked questions which Mr.. Bartlett replied to
by saying. they were insulting and asked in an
unprofessional manner.
The trial will be continued to-day.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
COMMERCIAL CLUE DIMES
And Appiauds Mr.. King na Ho Tells what the
Merchnnts' Associntion Has Done.

And AppIauds Mr.. King ms Ho Tells what the
Merchnnts' Association Has Done.
The members of the Commercial Club gave
at their clubhouse at 30 West Broadway last
night a dinner in honor Of tho governors that
was marked by the jolliest Of good fellowship.
Covers were laid for $50. H. A. Dickie pre-.
sided and was a witty toastmaster. The fca-
ture of the evening was n speech made by w.
F. King, President OF the Merchants Associa.
tion of New York. Mr.. King was interrupted
about every other minute by applause as he
told how the association had labored and
would continue to labor for the advancement
of the commerce of the metropolis. He said
that 5000 merchants in all the States already
possessed certificates of membership in the
Merchants Association of the Greater New
that membership increased to $4,000. The
merchants of the city, he declared, proposed to
build up the Greater New York without dis
eliminating against any other city, and had
planned at Il cost of $75, 900 TO issue 100000 cop
les of n book to be circulated throughout the
Union telling the merchants OF the country all
about New York, and proving that here was the
greatest buying market OF the country. and
that with the development of the metropolis
was involved the development of all the States
and cities.
want to help our sister cities" he said,
"and our interest in thus doing Is first. patriot.
ism, then the best good of all the people, and
after that dollars dollars which will represent
the profit that will flow from the advancement
Of the commercial interests of the cities"
Guide, {. H.. Fancher, +. l.. Mooney, President
Floyd, j. II. McPikc, John T. Cutting, $. f
Taylor and Clarence Sandford.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
ARTILLERrMEN FOR THE FORTS.
Plan for unstructinG the New Men In the Use
md Cnre Of Modern Guns.

ana Cnre of Modern Guns.
WASHINGTON, Nov. 1s.-Major-Gen. Miles is
reviewing the report Of the Board OF Army OFF,
GERS, directed to prepare n plan for the disposal
and make stimates OF the number of additional
enlisted men required for furnishing adequate
garrisons for the many now Notifications on the
Atlantic and Pacific coasts. The present artil-
lery force is entirely to small to man tho new
defeuces, and the board recommends that two
additional artillery regiments be authorized by
Congress to supply the increased demand. In
his annual report Gen. Miles earnestly urges
that the number Of artillery regiments be in
creased from five to seven, in accordance with
the provisions Of a bill presented at the extrAor-
binary session of Congress by Senator Hawley
of Connecticut.
among tho several fortified places is explained
in the report of the board, whose members WIS.,
tied the places where modern Qualifications are
being constructed. 1t presents TWO plans Tor
bringing tho force 10 a state of efficiency. Two
new regiments would mean that number of I'M
trained soldiers ignorant ( the care and opera
ton of big guns and disappearing carriages.
One plan Is to erect quarters Tor the full compile
ment OF officers and men ut each new fortified
post. The other, which meets with greater favor
with the military authorities, Is 10 place y small
number of men at each post and place the ma
jority in n camp OF instruction within convenient
distance of 1t. In this way the soldiers in the camp
could be instructed in the use and care of the
guns. having ordnance less valuable than the
new high.powered rifles for that purpose. The
new rifles are 80 delicate that it might be a
dangerous experiment to permit their operation
by recruits. Secretary Alger thinks well of this
second scheme, but he believes It can be Inn
proved. His idea IS To place half the men as
signed to each artillery post in the camp of in
struction, leaving the Others to care for the
Notifications. These details could alternate, so
that both would get the benefit of tho %instruc-
tion ut the camp and the experience at the forti.
t~lCatiOns,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
MRS. sTERNAMAN's DEFENCE.
Wall Produce . Letter written by Her Hus-
band Giving Warning OF His Condition.

TORONTO. Ont, Nov. 1s.-The case against
Mrs. Olive Sternaman for husband poisoning in
oludes the testimony of nearly all the doctors
In Buffalo and Cayuga who had been in attend
ance on George Sternaman during his fatal i'll.
ness. One after another told Of the progress Of
the case until he reached the conclusion Of
arsenical poisoning, The defence attached much
weight to a letter they produced at the trial to-
day. written by Sternaman at Buffalo on June
10, 1896. 1t says:
"To all Lchom It may concern:
81, George II. Sternaman, having had very
peculiar attacks Mt times during the past six
months. and OF which no one but my wife and a
few of her relatives know anything, / write this
10 state that IL l should die while in one Of
them. no person can say, that 1t was by her hands
Z. W. Dewey, agent Of the Metropolitan Life
at Buffalo, swore that when the policy came to
be paid Mrs. Sternaman asked him to keep quiet
about the thousand dollars.
"If 1t gets around said Mrs. SternamRn,
Georges relatives will get 1t all away from
me-"
An interesting precedent In Canadian crimi-
nal Jurisprudence was set In to-day's proceed
tnRs. 1t was the decision of the Judge, for the
Arst time in the history Of criminal law in Can
ada, to admit evidence concerning the prison
er's connection with an entirely separate case.
Tho %evidenc' admitted. in spite of the protests
ofthe defence. was that touching the suspicious
death Of Chapman. the prisoners first husband,
under circumstances very similar to those at
tending Sternaman's death.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
TrumbuIl-Vau Orden.

Miss Aline Marguerite Van Orden and Charles
Gallaudet Trumbull Of Philadelphia were mar.
ried yesterday afternoon in the South Church.
Madison avenue and Thirty.eighth street. Tho
bridegroom's father, the Rev. Henry Clay Trum-
bull of Philadelphia. performed the ceremony.
He was assisted by the Rev. Henry vandyke.
pastor of the Brick Church. Fifth avenue and
Thirty-seventh street. The bride was attended
by her sister, Miss Hattie Van Orden. as maid
OF honor. Tho bridesmaids were Miss Katherine
C. Trumbull Of Philadelphia, a sister of the
bridegroom: Miss Emma Gladys Harding OF
his city, Miss Flora NJ. E~ttinger, and Miss Alice
NJ. Lee OF Orange, n conein of the bride. Philip
in.iaw of the bridegroom, assisted him as best
man. Samuel Scoville, Jr., Edison Gallaudet OF
Washington, q cousin OF the bridegroom; Homer
PHILADELPHIA, and the brides brother. Albert r.
Van Orden. were the ushers. After the church
ceremony Mr.. and Mrs. Edward Van Orden, the
brides parents. gave a reception ut their home,
IS West Fifty-third street.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
TREASURY CLERKS DEBTS.
Creditors Cannot Use the Department as ~
Agency for Their Collection.

Agency for Their Collection.
WASHINGTON. Nov. ls.-Owins to the con-
fusion and embarrassment arising from the
efforts OF bill collectors to ply their vocation in
the Treasury Department Secretary Gage to-
day issued tho following circular:
"In all cases brought to the attention of this
office where clerks or employees of this depart
ment neglect to pay their bills for necessary
family supplies, and creditors seek to enforce
their claims by appeals to the department. the
following rules will be applied:
The Secretary will not make the depart
ment an agency for the collection of debts con-
tracted by its employees, but where a clerk. re-
cciving n stated salary, neglects or pleads in
ability to pay debts contracted after this date
family without presenting satisfactory reasons
for such action, the department will regard
such clerk al guilty OF improper practice, and
ono who ought not to be retained IN the public
service. When charges of such nature are
made and sustained by proper evidence the
Secretary will take action looking to the re-
moval OF the offending person.
This order does not apply to debts contracted
by parties at a time when they were not employed
in this department.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-19
SIR HILFRID BACK At OTTAWA.
Sir Louis Davies Has Hopea That Their Object
Will Vet He Attained.

OTTAWA, Ont. Nov. 1s.-Premier Laurier and
Sir Louis Davies returned from Washington
this afternoon. AS soon rs Sir Louis reached
his Office he was besiegea by inquiries as to the
result OF his visit. He said:
"Ihave Just been reading the report sent out
from Washington last night, and it seems to
cover the matter fairly well. The representa-
tiyes OF the American and Canadian Govern
ferences held. although, Of course, none Of the
vital questions in controversy could then be
brought to a final conclusion. but, as is stated in
the report referred to. q statement OF facts has
been agreed upon which establishes a firm basis
for future operations.
A | have d., we now know exactly where
we stand and will not hereafter be cropping In
the dark. Each party knows its true position.
The Americans arc fully aware OF ours and we
know theirs. After both representative parties
confer with their colleagues in their respective
Administrations statements OF tho demands re-
garGing the proposed reciprocal trade relations
will be presented by each and replies submitted.
81 can add nothing new to my statement at
Washington when / said the American tariff
presses too heavily upon us in respect to the
duties on our lumber coal, and fish exports, and
l think that the United States authorities, a ter
they have uaturely considered the whole situa-
ton in regard to Canada, will agree AS to the
correctness OF our CO %tention which may have
weight with tho joint commission, should one be
agreed to. i'll bringing about such reciprocal ar
ranRements as are most desirable to both coun-
tries. From what Gen. Foster has said we think
that the prospects FOR a Joint commission are
. 1t is stated tonight that the Dominion Gov.
eminent. at a Cabinet meeting held this inter.
noon, has decided to send Il commission to
Washington composed OF men familiar with the
serious questions involved TO meet with n SINH.
lar body of men appointed on hnh.lf OF the
United States. with cX-ScCretary Foster at its
head. Messrs. Laurier and Davies arc greatly
pleased at their reception at Washington.