The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1897-07-25

This week there are some novel shirt
waists of brown linen, with bolero jacket
fronts, set on over full pouching bosoms.
The boleros are a part of the shirt, seWed
in at the shoulder armhole and under
arm seams. They do not extend to the
back, and many of them are daintily
decorated with chainstitch embroidery,
done by machine, but none the less at
sractive and popular for that.
Black point d'esprit silk net is in great
alse, both for making wholly new toilets
and waists and for freshing gowns and
bcdices Of black satin, MORE, taffeta,
India silk and grenadine.
A very picturesque and dainty poke
bonnet recently worn at a fashionable
garden party was made of pale daffodil
yellow tulle: the entire bonnet was
Shirred over fine gold wire, including the
prim little drum crown. At the extreme
edge of the f1aring brim were set very
closely together little pink button roses,
with cluster of the same flowers above
fhe left ear and inside the brim. The
bonnet was further decorated with filmy
loops of the tulle, a buckle of French
brilliants, long scarf ends of the airy
material that were tied under the chin.
This Frenchy creation was worn by
lady with brilliant color and large brown
eyes. 1t made her look ten years older
than her actual years; nevertheless, it
was most becoming and unique in eff
feet 1t had a decidedly Victorian "at-
mosphere," and was more noticed than
any other of the costly and wonderful
headcoverings displayed on that occa-
sion. The bonnet was very short above
the ears, but the poke portion measured
at least eight inches from where it met
the crown to the extreme edge just in
front.
A hat that will wash is also a last
expression of the milliner's genius.
White linen is what it is made of, or
brown linen, if you choose, and the ia
1niliar alpine shape is adopted for this
cool and light headgear, that in both
bTim and crown is only made of two
thicknesses of linen, stitched elaborate
~. 1t is a positive fact that when the
white linen hat grows soiled it can be
given to the laundress, who may soap,
scrub, starch and iron it into an APP
pearance of immaculate newness. The
brown ones are equally adapted to tub
bings, and later the manufacturers
promise the same make and shape in
blue and pink linen. All this is clean
and convenient, but by way of placing
variation from the alpine shape there is
q nice hat just out, woven in fiat cream
colored straw, it's crown running up to
a perfect cone. The rather narrow
crown juts out like that of a sailor, and
women who wear this shape for all out
ing purposes trim the frames with
bright plaid silk handkerchief and one
or two stout silver stickpins. The very
truth is that we are growing desperately
lazy about trimming out hats at all,
so much do the manufacturers do to
solve the question of how or what shall
be done All fresh from the factory
comes straws, with net and tulle brim
facings. plated in by machinery, the
Innings for crowns are matter of course
and for both children and women, lovely
hats of pale green, yellow and rose-col-
ored rice straw are woven with puffings
of white chiffon or narrow Fittings of
silk muslin escaping from beneath every
layer of straw on the brim.
Along with the hats are wells of a
recent invention worth mentioning.
They are literally two wells woven as
one. Against the face lies a fine film of
ivory white tulle, upon which is woven
a coarse mesh of blue, brown, or black
silk net, amply sprinkled with chenille
dots. This is recommended as tan
and freckle-proof face covering and at
the same time not thick and hot as the
chiffon or sewing silk lengths, usually
worn by tender-skinned women.
May be the autumn will bring a
change in this respect, but so far the
small fan proudly waves. Black gauZe
ones, closely sprinkled with bright green
sequins had all the rest for full dress
occasions, and not only is the gauze
mounting, but the sticks, too, resplen-
dent with these sparkling dots of color.
Tt is noticeable that only a few of the
spangled fans are painted, while. for
daylight use, the smart thing is a small
fan, of ivory sticks, mounted with curl
Gus thin bright Japanese silk painted in
Japanese water colors.
New designs in rich silks, woven both
in this country and abroad, show mar
vellous effects of shading flowers and
foliage on opal-tinted and similar beau
tllul bdchSTpuuuSs 6Sld1lllue anu nom
eysuckle orchids, llacs, chrysanthe-
NUNS, geranium and hawthorn bios
SONS. ETC., are reproduced with wonder
full fidelity, even in the minutest de-
tails, with all the skill of hand-paint-
Ing.
Gainesborough hats and Marie An
tionette fichus or Louis Quinze sashes
are worn with many of the haa11tif1lJ
gauZy dress toilets of the season at
various fashionable resorts. Some of
the sashes are made OF embroidered
silk muslin or tulle matching the gown,
or of crepe lie Chine with fringed silk
ends that are often three-eighths of
yard deep; both wide and narrow silk
fringes having recently returned TO
favor. These sashes are very decora-
tive features of fashion, and on slen-
der figures are often carried twice
around the waist, small jewel pins