The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-19
OUT GOES THE FUR CAPE
AND IN CONES THE BLOUSE As
THE WRAP OF FASHION.

OF fur garments this year, and the styles are
richer. moro beautiful, and moro varied than
ever before. Best OF all, they are convenient
too. for many of the most fetching designs admit
Of the utilization OF old garments.
The fur capes which have been popular so
long have had their inning. They have been
made long and short and broad and narrow and
plain and fluffy, until now 1t seems absolutely
impossible to make a cape that is really u new
style. Loose coats, blouses, and short jackets of
fur have completely ousted the cape.
The advent of the tight sleeve in women's
frocks is largely responsible for the radical re.
form in the cut Of fur coats. Whenever very
large sleeves are worn the tendency is to wear
closely fitting waists, but let the sleeves diminish
In size and Immediately bodices are made to bag
and fall in generous folds. A ~spiteful man has
said: "A woman is bound TO waste material
somewhere"
Fashionable women are on the tip-toe of ex-
pectancy to know just what the styles in fur
will be. for the fashionable furriers never put
their new garments on exhibition before Oct. l.
This among them is an unwritten rule as rigidly
adhered to as the dofiing of straw hats on Change
on Sept. 10. Not only that, these furriers are
very close mouthed and hardly a hint are they
willing to give as to what really is to be worn.
One OF Brooklyn's leading furriers gave a SuN
reporter q peep at the newest things, and talked
about the great revolution in fur garments.
boa. and muffs vorv freely.
sable will be decidedly the most fashionable
fur this winter" he began, and that is well,
for 1t is one Of the richest and most becoming
furs that we have. For a time 1t seemed that
seal and Persian lamb were pdsse in a way, but
a great change in the sentiment regarding these
furs has been wrought owing to the exceedingly
pretty styles in fur blouses and short jaunty
jackets brought from over the seas. The very
newest things OF course are the blouses, and
most Of them are made Of baby lamb, as 1t Is
very soft and flexible and does not look clumsy.
Those made OF seal are equally fashionable.
however. II o person is slight enough 10 carry
one we'll.
The regular Russian blouse promises TO have
a great run. This one is made OF Persian lamb
tho shoulders down and setting out in three box
plaits below the waist line. In front 1t is laid in
ff oosso. O'a TSs 81 sioe sRs n SFs small ana u Dn lf'i ful R0u at fhs
shoulders and waist. where they are finished
with q tiaring cuff. The collar is high and flares
That one he went on. pointing toward a
figure. is a regulation plain blouse waist,
collar and fiaring cuffs. while this one is exactly
like it, except II has a short faring skirt cut In
rather more dignihed. stylish appearance. An.
other design has has q tightly fitting back With a
blouse. 4 short, dumpy woman would only ac-
o~entuate her figure by donning such a gar.
amply proportioncd would not look at ali we'll
in these loose things. For such there is Q moti.
Of the most taking designs fits Snuelly all
around and buttons straight up to the chin. II
r svero Of the lamb and over these smaller
ones OF chinghilla:, The high collar is
also OF sh5nehiiIa, There are several ori Other ,hsr
will be much worn. Many women who
have long Persian lamb or seal capes are having
with a contrasting fur. A very practical coat
for those who do not go in for extreme STYLES is
double-breasted box front, b1ttonine well over
on the side. This coat is twenty-four inches in
length; has a chic collar and q fetching cuff Of
The sleeves Of all fur coats are very much
smaller this season. In fact, the manufacturers
are only waiting for the dressmakers to allow
them to be made very small. indeed. The fur.
riers are in an unfortunate position. not being
than the modistes do. liza woman insists upon
wearing her last years gowns. of course we can.
not make the coat sleeves too small for this TO
be an impossihility. though the chances are that
the sleeves will grow even smaller as the season
lin place Of the cape. we have this winter
that from which the cape really developed, the
wrap. This garment should never have been
used for anything except dress purposes These
wraps will he brought out in n great variety of
styles and lengths. from very short; dressy crea-
tions to a long, loose coat with sleeves which
slips easily over AN evening gown. These wraps
are mostly made Of rich silk brocades or fine
woollen materials, and are lined throughout
with ermine squirrel. mink. long. fluffy Thibet
lamb. and, in some cases, even with hiSh-priced
sables;.
this winter, and with these will he worn neck
pieces of sable or fox. These pieces arc a little
are trimmed with clusters OF tails as before.
Almost any, form Of fur neckwear is admissible,
from a single little band that fits like "A collar
and gives just n touch OF richness and warmth
TO a costume TO the stoles that reach TO the
the entire skin or some animals, 's such as the fox
or sable. promise to be worry fashionable.
One of the most magnificent fur garments
brought out this year reminds one Of the old
time victorine. although the fur runs in a diff.
fercnt direction, This one of sable is made OF
the shoulders and across the back, and a tail
coming between each pair Of points gives an ex.
nearly to the bottom OF the skirt, and each
OF them is composed OF three skins. The
o osG tbe fur US but mT' Il %as MOTT m5th nesess amy to f c%t The
skins In order TO get that effect. The muff to 10
with this wrap Is q huge, fancy affair of black
velvet. IL has tiarlng ends, edged with a quite
broad band OF sable. and Two entire natural
skins are SUSPENDED on the front by means of a
chic bow of satin ribbon.
"stolcs OF the regulation clerical cut are new
Sable Is the favoritc fur for these also. and thcy
A large pouch muff OF sable. einbellished with
four tails and four legs. is carried with such
garments. Chtnchilla also makes u dainty and
dressy stole. and that reminds me that gray is 10
be II very popular color in furs this winter
Chinchilla and the gray and blue foxes will
play n conspicuous part in the fashionable wo,
mans " inter outfit.
"Furriers generally aren't selling ma Y new
collRrettes, hut a great many women are having
their long, lamb, sable. or seal capes made over
into little neck ana shoulder protectors. One
dashinK design Is made OF seal and trimmed in
sable. The body OF the collarette is of seal cut
into four big scallops, slashed clear up to the
neck. These are edged with a band OF sable,
and u high sable collar. fastened with "a bunch
Of, tails and legs, gives tho n fishing, touch,
v on these eollnrsttes are trimmed with a fur
TINT M y 4 wal with thA hnHV nf thA xRv.nE
there is always Il good style about them.
"Muffs are larger and more dressy this year
than they have ever been before. The round
nun will not be altogether neglected, but il il
absolutely necessary for IL To be very large. and
n muff To mattel the fur coat, collarette, neck
piece, or whatever "A woman happens TO have,
will he more used than heretofore.
- II the average woman gets one fur coat In a
season she Is perfectly satisfied and is willing ia
wear IL on every occasion when a heavy wrap IL
necessary. But there are women who can afford
q garment for every purpose. For such, a coat
has been designed especially for driving. II Is d
box coat made Of seal, and the loose front Il
trimmed from the top to the bottom with q
hrnnH Ia nd z ~ lln nrnn m N n trtg a ~ H.