The record-union., 1897-09-12

The tendency of the winter jacket is
toward the blouse effect, which IS op-
tanned by darts. Yokes, collars, cuIIs'
pipings in fur whether it be MINK Fer
sian lamb, ermine sable, silver ana
black fox, or monkey, will be popular
Velvet and silk braids of all widths are
much used. Satin cloth is really the
novelty of the day, and obtains IN memo
trOpe. green, mode, golden-broWh' sll-
ver-gray, royal blue, dove and Llhcolh
green. On this are seen, not only Ihe
fur decorations mentioned, but also d
very thick. coarse. black woolen pralu'
and tiny straps of leather matching OF
contrasting with the cloth in color. Col
lars continue high, are gored and uh-
dulating, and may be lined with IuI'
velvet or lace. Vatican effects are
seen. Capes will continue to be Worn
The novelty in their trimming IS
founce of the same material about the
edges. described by the French modlste
as "cut in round"
Black. serge bathing suits are quite
popular this year. making them as tol-
cradle as any of these ugly gowns can
possibly be made. Black stockings ana
a. black oiI-boiled silk cap complete
very quiet-looking bathing costume
worn at Newport this year. On another
beach in New Jersey, a red cap IS worn
bv a fair-haired young woman, ana d
long black cloak, with monks nooo
lined with red, is worn by the bather
down to the waters edge. White bralu
trimmings and white wool belt, collar
and eirdIe appear on other black serge
bathing suits.
Entire costumes of gray in very many
different tones viii be in high favor TINS
fall. and skirts of gray cloth, douple-
faced cashmere-canvas, tweed, moha1r'
and reDped silk will very largely take
the place of the useful and almost UNI
versal black skirt worn so long WIN
fancy waists and jackets. Some Oh the
smartest toilets and costumes worn
abroad this summer have been mace OF
gray. in some rich combination, OF
wholly of one handsome fabric, with
white and gold trimmings, or again
combined with mauve, red, placK' OF
yellow. or adorned with DOW aho
hucl<Ie" garnitures. In very thin ma
terials. gray silk gauZe dotted with rose
buds is made up over rose-colored SIX
and trimmed with jewelled gimp ano
green velvet Gray silk gauze inquired
with tinv rosebuds (made upon sea
green and mauve, short satin, with gray
zrauze pleated friIls, lace insertion, ano
empire bows of heliotrope and mlgnon-
cite satin) forms a very elegant gown
made in Paris. In coarse canvas, eta
mine. Henrietta cloth. etc, gowns 1o1
demidress wear, in pearl, swallow, OF
sand gray. will prevail. and white Will
be much used to soften and tighten the
effect of the gray: or pink, if more be-
coming. will give &. dainty touch OF colol
10 the bodice. Gray tailor-cloth cos
fumes trimmed only with stitching
gray silk gimp, and buttons, are very
elegant in appearance, and the most eX-
pensive are lined with taffeta in coque-
1icot. red. mauve, dark blue, dahlia
color. or plain gray, matching the tailor
cloth in tint or shot with a color in con-
trast. Gray crepe de chine is very
beautiful but very perishable textile
but it viii be used for gowns for Wed
ding guests, for elegant dinners, anc
similar toilets of ceremony.
Double skirts. skirts f1ouHed, frilled
and narrowly ruched models, slightly
draped. killed, panelled, tucked, slash d
boxpleated and severely plain, all appear
in the brilliant autumn procession OF
fashion. Velvet ribbon in rows, points
shoulder-knots. choux, loops anC
xtreamers. is used with lavish prodigal-
ity.
Some of the autumn evening dresses
of transparent textiles have the entire
front and sides of the skirt formed OF
1engthwise rows of ribbon, giving {
striped effect to the material. These
with guimpe and short jacket effects, re
main in favor and all sorts of unsym
rnetrical and opposite arrangements
will be in vogue on the bodice-craVats
couuille effects, jabots on one side, anc
fold of rich velvet on the other, or
large ribbon bow. Often one side of th'
corsage is extremely ornate, while the
other is left entirely unadorned. In this
case. great pains is taken with the fit o.
the waist. This contrasting arrange
ment has resulted from the fashion O
fastening the bodice, blouse, or bolero OF
the left shoulder.
Many of the new blouses. besides
having the usual glove-fitting lining
are made with fitted side forms, who's
seams show on the outside of the gar
ment. These are a decided advantag
TO women at all inclined to stoutness-
AS we enter upon the autumn sea
son. red foulards are becoming NOR
fashionable than the blue patterns s.
universally worn this summer. Red j.
a trying color to view when the SUI
blazes down day after day on ariC
soil, and the eye seeks relief from al
things and colors suggestive of heat
A red foulard on cool autumn da!
or on the gay sea-shore is, however, at
tractive enough. Such a dress, pat
termed in white star blossoms, nov
worn as a beach costume, is greatly
toned by its white garnitures. Th'
bodice slightly pouched over a white
silk vest, a belt and long loops and enc
of white ribbon, and a touch of white
at the throat and wrists. complete {
very effective gown. exceedingly be
coming 10 a tail, slender, brunette
Rearer.