New-York tribune., 1897-11-01
GOLF JACKETS AND SKIRTS.
TOMMY ATKINS SCARLET A COLOR DIFF
FICULT TO FIND.
NOT MUCH VARIETY IN COSTUMES. But NEW

NOT MUCH VARIETY IN COSTUMES. But NEW
STYLES MAY APPEAR AT THE HORSE SHOW.
Some OF the observations made At golf tourna-
ment recently where the cool weather had brought
out number Of new outing costumes the
effect that few women look well in the short. tight
fitting Eton Jacket which is so generally this
fall with short golf skirts.
No short-waisted woman, as a matter OF fact
should ever wear Eton jacket: while stout
women for obvious reasons should also avoid them
There are several pretty styles which are much
better suited TO them, being a jacket with
straight loose front and n back made with yoke
from which hangs two pleats. held in the figure
by belt pressing through two openings In the side
seams. 1t is rather noticeable too that woman
inclined 10 stoutness looks better In covert or
black jacket than In that matches her suit The
difference In material and color to lengthen
the appearance OF figure
There is scarlet and scarlet" said one woman.
And many of the golfng coats are not made OF the
true British Tommy Atkins color. The last but
by no means the least. impressive assertion came
from impartial onlooker. and was to the effect
that skirts ;hat comparatively long the most
graceful.
Belted-in backs so popular this season that
the fashion has also extended to capes, peat from
the shoulders either side hiding the opening
through which the belt passes. This undoubtedly
makes the garment much All of the new
shirtwasts. whether silk or flannel, are made
with the pouchlikc blouse front. which Is now seen
every bodice. elaborate and simple alike The
backs however. are Invariably tight.
An essential for ones wardrobe nowadays is
pair OF black woollen knickerbockers 10 IN
wet or rainy weather in lieu OF petticoat. These
most comfortable winter garments may now be
bought at every furnishing store either OF flannel
or OF black taffeia silk lined with canton flannel
PRETTY IMPORTED MODELS
At the autumn openings OF the best-known dress
makers there Is nothing notlceaby new, but some
Of tho new imported models are remarkably pretty.
Perhaps the Horse Show may develop some secrets
hitherto held in the background but It IS doubt
full
A smart-looking French "tallor-made" at Nine
D-s Is OF military blue "peau de gants." The back
of the bodice and the skirt cut in one piece tho
front being the usual plain blouse, fastening the
left side. The chic OF the costume Is found in the
trimming. which is distinctly ODD. consisting Of
broad black mohair braid passing around the neck
about three inches below the collar. and crossing In
from, the two ends then each disappearing In a
slit cut in the cloth. like a pocket. and which IS
trimmed with a braided pattern. About three inch
below the braid rcappcars through another silt
trimmed In similar fashion, and meets In point
under the bells below which X again shows itset.
thls ume IN me skirt; ana crossing once more,
runs into another pockctllko slit just below the
hips The newest skirt trimming seems 70 be pyra-
mlIlkc stripes running up rom We nom. For ~
stance. gray cdchcmre has the skiri trimmed with
TWO groups or stripes OF narrow p.dtk velvet, inc
first pyramdal group OF four bands having the
apex directly IN tho centre Of the front bTcadh h
about twenty inches from the bottom. and the
next group having the apex also directly IA front.
within couple of inches OF the Wast.inc. The
bodice IS cut In "N' from the shoulders and tho
waist and is blrlcrei each side with three
bands Of velvet ribbon. Two points a.so ooriercd
In Ike fashion meet over the top Of the tight
sleeves. the space within the ~" being hled iH
with "Luci.er" red gathered crepe de chine. The
collar IS also Of the crepe and the belt Is = satin
OF tho same shade.
A green clo,h costume Of severe simplicity. bu,
distlnguishc! looking for that very reason f. made
with the plain blouse front hgttoucl ou The let
SIDE from the shoulder WITH three na smoked pearl
buttons. the edge being trimmed from shoulder 20
waist with ftiI of narrow knife-pi"ate-I black
taNcta, the skirt also fastening ON tho side with
IN" same p'aiiug, continuing down 20 tn" hem.
y sash and collar of black taff.-ta ribbon conp.cf"
the costume. S'iN another pretty gown has the
Jacket ~ plain brown popiln. with thc ciEc boz
dorcd with four rows of gilt ana brown braid Tho
jacket is fitted 90 ihe ia X and tle hips whore
II Is cut slightly up. and then down 90 deep point
In front where IL hangs straight ON tho breast
"A couple ~ buttons are fastened together wi'h
a hook. above which are squared rctcrE oS white
elmpure lace over brown satin. Tn" sieevss have
bc.l-shaped top reaching 20 tAc elbow over tho
tight undcrsieoyes. the edge o, tn" bel trimmed
with rows of the same braid ma edge OF the
skirt. and also on The bottom OF the Jacket.