Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-04
THE JOURNEY TO ALASKA
The Dangers That Beset the Trip Are
Many.
The Expense and Risk of Traversing
ChflkOOt Pass There IL Another
Way Over the Mountains.
From the London Times.

few months of gold in large quantities has
attracted considerable attention. not only
throughout the United States, but also In
Canada and British Columbia. The aurif-
erous deposits are of extraordinary rich
ness; forty pounds to the pan has been OBJ
tanned on Bonanza creek which Is equal TO
the best records of California or Cariboo;
and although the output of gold throughout
the Yukon district in 1898 amounted to
only 100000, these figures show an in
crease in 1896 of $1,67o,00O while further
important discoveries have been made since
the publication of these statistics 1t is pos
sible that the very favorable report of In
spector Constantine may attract capital
and labor from this country, but although
tie inspector very rightly dweils upon the
possibilities offered by this new Eldorado,
he does not mention the difficulties that at
present attend the journey to tie gold tie DIS
difficulties which Should not be overlook
ed by intending prospectors. The report
concludes, "A route from the south to the
headwaters of the Yukon is required but
this scarcely conveys correct impression
of the hardships, and even perils, that at
p1 esent encompass the voyage into the in
terror of Alaska from the sea.
There are two ways of entering Alaska
one by sea from San Francisco, Vancouver,
Victoria and other southern ports to ST.
Michaels, in Boring sea; the other, which
1 chose, and which is taken by fully 80
per cent of the goldseekers, by crossing the
ICTCner south ana 0eScenQlnR
chain of lakes ard rapids to the headwaters
of the Yukon river. The distance saved by
adopting the overland journey is no less
than 900 miles. The difficulties of this
voyage are only realized at Dyea, 100 miles
from Juneau, where the land journey be-
gins. and where a bad anchorage frequently
compels the traveller to wade knee-deep
for considerable distance before landing.
Dyea consists of rude log store and a
movable town of tents occupied by diggers
bound for the gold fields. A delay of sever
al days occurs here while Indians are
procured to carry tents and baggage to the
lakes. twenty-four miles distant, over the
Chilkoot pass, nearly 1900 feet high. Pro-
visions must be brought from Juneau, for
there Is nothing to be had here, or indeed
anywhere this side of Forty Mile City, GOO
miles away.
The Chilkoot pass is difficult, even dan
gerous, to those not possessed of steady
nerves. Toward the summit there is a
sheer ascent of 1000 feet, where a slip
would certainly be fatal. At this point a
dense mist overlook us, but We reached
Lake Lndemann-the first of series of
iive lakes|n safety, after fatiguing
tramp of fourteen consecutive hours
through half-melted snow. Here we had to
build our own boat. first telling the timber
Tor the purpose. The journey down the
lakes occupied ten days, four of which
were passed in camp on Lake Bennett dur
ing violent storm, which raised heavy
sea. The rapids followed. One of these
latter, the Grand Canyon" is a mile long,
TO 100 feet high; six miles below are the
white Horse rapids" name which many
fatal accidents have converted into the
Miners grave" But snags and rocks are
everywhere fruitful source of danger on
this river, and from this rapid downward
scarcely day passed that one did not see
some cairn or wooden cross marking the
last resting place of some drowned pill
grim to the land of gold.
The above Is a brief sketch of the troubles
that beset the Alaskan gold prospector-
troubles that. although unknown in the
eastern states and Canada, have for many
years past associated the name of Yukon
with an ugly sound in western America.
The journey to the Alaskan gold fields is
a hard one for the well-equipped explorer
who travels in light marching order. The
gold prospector, on the other hand must
carry winters supplies, dearly purchased
at Juneau, to be transported at ruinous
prices over the Chilkoot pass. He must
construct his own beat tofter single han .ed)
on Lake Lindemann. and assuming that he
arrives at his destination, must secure
!Gdgings at a price that would startle
hGps a capital Of 81 900. not including a
ticket to Juneau from the Golden Gate .or
elsewhere. No wonder that the annals of
tne Alaska Commercial Company bear wit
ness to the fact that within the last five
years hundreds of starving miners have
been sent out of the country at the com
pany's expense. and these, as 1 can testify,
are but percentage Of those who have
persisted from actual starvation in the
dreary purlieus of Circle City and Forty
Mile creek.
Z A Brighter Side to the Picture,
There is, however. brighter side to this
gloomy picture, for there are fortunately
other approaches to the Yukon valley be-
sides the dreaded Chilkoot. The chain of
mountains of which the latter forms a part
is cut by three other passes-the Taku, the
Chilkat and the White pass. OF these, the
two former may be dismissed as being, on
account of their length and other difficult
ties, almost as impracticable as the Chill
koot, over which it would be quite i'm
possible to lay a bride path; but the White
pass offers no serious obstacles to the con-
struction of a railway. The White pass Is
at least $50 feet lower than the Chilkoot
ard, unlike the latter, is timbered the en-
tire length. The salt water terminus of
TINS pass Is IN skagway bay, eighty-five
miles from Juneau Here ocean steamers
can run up at all times to a wharf which
has been constructed in sheltered posi-
tion. and there is an excellent town site
with protection from storms The pass lies
through box canyon surrounded by high
granite peaks, and Is comparatively easy
1t has already been used by miners who re-
port favorably upon the trail, and when it
Is considered that the adoption of this route
obv1ates the dangers and expenses of the
Chilkoot, avoids Lakes Lndemann and
Bennett the stormiest and most perilous
OF the whole chain), shortens and greatly
dminishes the expense Of the journey to
the Yukon valley. and, above ALL can be
used throughout the year (the interior of
Alaska Is now completely cut off from the
world for nine months in the year,, there
can be little reasonable doubt that the
White pass is the best and most prac tea
BILE route to the Yukon gold fields
1t Is said that a scheme Is now in pro-
gress to open up the White pass and facili-
tate the transport of miners and stores to
the mining settlements, and this is earnest
ly to be wished for. An English company.
the British Columbia Development Associ-
alton, Limited, has already established a
landing wharf and is erecting wharf and
sawmills at Skagway. whence it is pro-
posed las soon as feasible) to lay down
line of rail some thirty-fve miles long.
striking the Yukon river at branch Of
the Teslin lake, about 100 miles below
Lake Lindemann, which is the debouc hure
of the Chilkoot pass. BY this means the
tedious and difficult navigation between
these two points will be avoided, and the
only dangerous parts of the river below,
namely, the Grand Canyon and White
Horse rapids. will be circumvented by
read or rail portage. Light-draught steam
ers will be put on from Teslin lake to the
canyon. and from the foot of the latter to
ali the towns and camps on the river. Ar
rangemeEts will also be made for direct
communication with Skagway by the exist