The times., 1897-11-21
New Styles Revealed by the
Great Show in New York.
MAGNIFICENT DRESS PARADE
The victorian and the Pheasant
Haas Garry OFF the Palm lar
Beauty and Smartness-RichW Win
ter shirt Waists Are seen IN the
Morning Novelties in FuIs.


horse show is siAI one Of the most inf
pqlaut dress parades in the month OF
November. Women continue to come
from. all parts Of the country, presume
abs TO see the horses, but, in reality,
,.l.a nc 10 show her own pretty feathers.
and see what the other women are wear
iug. Therefore, 1t is yet safe 20 pre-
d:ct that whatever is seen at this equine
f,ae is apt tc become the established mode
f,T q winter.
For example, anyone who has been to
tht show viii come away convinced that
tie victorian bonnet is one OF The most
important types OF headgear, 50 many
were the women VINO wore them. They
appeared in tie morning, afternoon and
IN tie eveEne, with the sort OF gown
that ad0rns the theateT. There We're some
snail Victorans, chiefly Of beaver, and
snIi.,. very large ones, made al Of Vel
Nei ulat is called plsse, bec;s use IL Is
pigtI & sbirred surface M the nlanufectuTe
Ore and all these bonnet shapes were
trimmed, inside Of the brim and out oE
the crown with cruShes OF bright silk.
Iusim ol velvet roEes. and an abundance
Of bows and Knots of satin ribbon \
victorian bonnet is never minus exc eedingly
long satin strings, cut with forked ends
and tyluc directly under the center Of
the chin.
To woman whose looks lean III the
least toward the picturesque these iOnnets
are seutiaiIy becoming, and especially are
they t. he recommended for the ease with
which the least artful hand can, with
handful OF roses and a little ribbon, trLn
"a beaver shape most hccomingly. Hats
made entirely OF pliSSe velvet or felt hat
faced with this material were nearly all,
Bs seen at tie show. very wide. turned up
rather sharply 10 ore side, tn brim fastened
hack with an ornamental piu and the dec
oration mainly Of ostrich feathers.
An Interesting oddity- many examples
uf winch We're seen, was the hat trimmed
on one side wh holly IN green and eXactly
the remaining half in black, or oue-haIf
in vfoleI velvet and bouquets or the flo "
ers, tie other half in white wings aud
pure white silk. Sharp as tins contrast
may sound. the effect was not th toe
least unlieasing.
Ia ulace or tInding the plain felt hats
win velvet, narrow tand OF fur was
,.sea. MT only Astrakhan, Persian laIlD
and Thii'et, tut heaver placked end un-
plucked. Alaska sable shiny black lynx
hiup fox. ermine, mink and chnchilla,
sil were pressed intn service. and. taougt.
tbe mHdiaE is Tie very ughtest ron Uf
fhin ad j,.sued 10 tie very edge Of the hat,
il saiIma soft, becoming frame a. tn
lace, 80 that ny woman should IL it,
ENceDt i0r tiIe hinuinc. fur was Sparin-ly
usee in D.: decoration ar this years show,
lChl. the dominant hirG of the Sea~5n is . 2
pheasant. liz complete pIumage from till
Il tailtip and from wing TO wing. On a wire
frame, forms complete hat, ana q lovely
on. To, for the brown, gold and gr-ea .Ui.es
~ M piumaEe exactly harnlBHize with viii
tel cosiu'Ges-
The pheasant hat, owing To tie taXider-
mist art ana Uh1 facility with whici, these
birds are now raised il America, is not an
expensive luxury Any shrewd w3iasn can
buy a bird wire frame. and bis II dark
hiss velvet WITH which 10 lay il fold .Is a
bssiA for mounting the bird against Eer
hair, and II a triCe can be possessed II =
sInaTt chapeau a. heart could wish. VERY
luNuriguSlg dressed women N-ear "orgeoIsly Y
colorrd crested pheasants. brought from
Europe, aud pin a blazing star OF colore,l
imitation Jewels amid the sheeuy breast
feathers Just over the right temple There
is considerable RI airy among women who
wear tfese hats as ~ the length Of then
birds taIIs The smsrtest hat has the long
est tail feathers some of them Falling faI
Gown on the shoulder
In the matter OF furs-the horse show
made q gallant display of big muffs and
HIahy Of these We're worn slung abOE
the neck ~ single chains Of pretty imi
tation pearls, indeed nothing more tIau
well-tinted wax beads strung on heavy siA
cords. SILVER fox and chnchilia he the
furs still adopted by the wealthy mmfs
We're noticed with heads mounted thereon
but the small fur animal no longer clasps
fair turOats.
Cape-like collars, with tufts Of tails il
front made brave show. while quite as
mauy women wore straight round collars
about three inches wide, made ~ tive
narrow bands Of fur at top and bottom
edges, with a row OF close set heads, Ia V
iPg open jaws and flashing eyes. pl4r Il
between the fur bands Their technical
name Is dog collar, Tor such a cmtnvancs
ta loose, perfectly round, made on a veT5
stiff fouEda tion ana arranged to hook ex-
exactly ;.ndeT the chin A noticeable "a y
at the show was that every woman, after
she had put OF her fur coat, cape or collar
ilttn Alttl datghL AtI uEth a lUllE bG1l4 NI
E1lk, lace or net, edged with lace, made
a big bow Of it Under her chin aid le
loops and ends fall out as a jabot in fl ont
over her fur covered chest.
No cost, the show made clear this season
iE u Dc worn tailIess. Some coats, indeed
are very, vel long. a tan beaver clot
walking ooat, trimmed with brown braid il
sketched this week as typical OF some ofthe
IN,
fair The skirts OF this ali halrw way to thi
ankle ard on both sides are slit up gen
erously 70 allow OF free stride in walking
The woman who had waist short, douhl
breasted coat last winter, can bring il quilt,
into fashion fuw by adding of cloth OF fu
OF silk, fingeI-long ruffIe tail all abou
the hips; encircling the waist by a rlbbol
belt, to hide the seam at juncture Of Goa
and tolls, and fastening the belt in frou
by as big ano ornamental buckle as sii
can find or afford
Shirt waists spring eternal, winter .
summer, at breakfast tables and dime
parties, aud IN every goods but gauze an
lace. They almost controlled the situation
DIT every ::our Of the day during the show
The two skerched from an inexhaustibl
array we're of blue and pink satin IN danes
Fine perpen 1icular tucks and quaint ar
rsngement Of black ribbon bows, held wiu!
wee cut steel buckles, gave one simple littI
garment all its charm.
The second waist, tucked on the bial
both on sleeve and bosom, had, abuu
its black SILK collar and cuffs and dow
the front r,iw Of the very narr west whit
nbhon laid or with one edge gathered
on fine needlework and dainty eontzas
Of colOrs the beauty o these skirts depend
Their material @ SITS very much less ths
q dnIlar Va I'd II Is fhn c1lstn1ll NV :.