davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30

A handsome model affects this style. 1t
is made of silver-gray cloth, with the yoke
richly embroidered with steel beads and
gold and silver spangles. and is lined
throughout with gray squirrel The yoke
is defined by large, wide shoulder pieces
of blue fox fur, which form a kind of col
iarette and stand out well over the shoulder
OF the wide dOlman sleeve.
The high Medici collar is cut in one with
the yoke, and embroidered In continue ton
OF the design on the same 1t is also lined
with blue fox
The empire shape is also obvious In
many new designs for evening wraps.
A very simple form and one which NAV
De easily and inexpensively initiated is an
empire cloak of tan cloth, with square
yoke and spangled cream-colored lace The
sleeve is bishop, cut very wide to nc-
commodatc the dainty puff or arm drapery
OF the gown underneath. The cuff as well
as the inevitable Medici collar, is of mink
and the whole garment is lined with the
SILK, brocadeI in large designs on a large
soft ground.
a large bow of cream -colored ribbon Is
fastened at the back of the collar and an
Otner is at the throat, where it falls in
long ends.
The plain, circular form for evening
cloaks has survived many years of favor
1tisn, although It sacrifices beauty and
style to practicability One of white cider
down cloth Is lined throughout with pale
rose-colored quilted surah, and the collar.
as well as the narrow border which ex-
tends along both sides Of the closing in
front consists of long haired white Angora
fur.
Furs for Winter.
And thus we have reached the subject of
1urs, which are to be worn In great album
dance, variety and combinations This COM
ing winter
The ever-fashionable seal is becoming
such a rarity that it's soft dark iuster is
set on by trimming consisting of some
other fur, as chinchilla, sable or ermine.
A new design, which may very conyen-
1ently be made of old material CONSISTS of
a snort, t1Sht-ht-inS sealskln Sacuue with
the vest and high collar of ermine The
sleeves are almost tight-fitt;ng, and a Ia
bot OF real lace is attached at the throat
with a diamond agraffe
Jabots and ties of lace or embroidered
white silk, are very fashionable OF the
front of the fur jacket. cloak or cape, par
ucuiariy when attached with a jeweled
pin.
Cray Persian lamb is another favorite.
particularly when combined in cape or
collarette, with black lace elaborately en-
bToidered with gray silk, silver threads and
spangles. Ernline will be worn on outdoor.
as well as indoor, garments, and follows
the universal tendency for combination in
cc.larettes, boas and capes decorated with
sable tails.
An interesting feature Of many new bell
shaped capes is the flounce or fiounces OF
fur which eIcircle the shoulders and add
10 their breadth. The muff is worn very
large, and its new plain shape is "a copy of
those worn by our grandmothers century
ago The more fancy shapes are very full!
drawn at the sides and opening over the
wrist with large, stiff ruff1es.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
Of Interest to Women Who Would Be
Well Dressed.
DESIGN FOR AN EVENING COSTUME
A Cloak of Tan Cloth in the En-
pre- Style.
FURS IN GREAT VARIETY
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
THE HAGUE. October IS 1897.
The new garnitures which lend color and
brightness to the simple street gown of
today also characterize the makeup of the
evening dress. or toilette de ceremonie as
our design shows.
The model consists of a princesse over
dress and train of canary yellow velvet
over g. petticoat of yellow satin, draped
with black mousseline de sole This
mcusseline de soie which also forms the
front of the low-cut bodice, is knife-pleated
and richly studded with jet spangles; an
elaborate border of jet and gold bead en-
brcidery extends along the hem
The yellow velvet princesse overdress is
also bordered with rich jet and bead en-
broidery, and is edged with a narrow band
of ermlne, the small black tails of which
extend downward at short intervals A
tiny octave jacket of thickly jetted yellow
velvet follows the line of the decollete at
the back and of the nlousseline vest at the
front.
Inc glrdIe is beautiful combination of
jet ard god beads, ard forms three down
ward points, finishing in cut jet pendants
The ornament at the bust is also of iet
and gold, and large let beads act as
shcuider straps, while the sleeve consists
o. a graceful, novel arrangement of canary
yellow velvet. embroidered with jet and
gold beads and trimmed with jet pendants
ans surmounted by a loose drapery of
1etted black mousseline de sole
A jet diadem is worn in the hair. and
the feet are inclosed in slippers of canary
;SHow velvet embroidered with jet, and
black silk stockings, and long black sue1e
gloves cover the hands and arms
ms toilet Is admirably suited to a
blonde with pale yellow hair and ROSY com
PleAloh' or to brunette whose pale olive
ekin Is set off by the luster of fiacL, 80
and hair - eS
me question Of evening dress includes
the fashion for evening wraps
The Fashionable Dolman.
b The newest form of these articles of
oress SO necessary to the fashionable
woman is the dolman, the back fitting close
10 The figure, while the large sleeves form
Two pieats, facing each other at the waist
line at the back, and fall loosely in fro,.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
By NJ. A. VoGELs (The Haguel
HE SAVES LITTLE,
What 1t Costs n Certain College Pro-
fess0r to Live.


From Scribner's
Since my object Is not to idealize my ex-
periences, but to tell the TRUTH / may say
frankly that the principal reason why 1
have remained here has been the financial
one. My salary is $1,000 year. 1t is q
small sum for any professional man to
earn, and ii is certainly less than the col
lege would gladly pay if it were able; on
the other hand, 1t comes nearer to coincid-
Ing with the cost of living here than do
the much larger salaries of some friends
of mine who occupy chairs in the great
universities. Most of the people, even the
more prosperous of them, in the commune
~ in which the college is located do not
have so large an income do the profess
sors and we even find ourSelveS-rather
uncomfortably, it must be said-Iooked
Upon by our townsmen as a sort of local
moneyed aristocracy. But the conditions
OF living are PROFESSIONALLY easier and in
many respects, more attractive here than
In many other places. Rents, for example,
are decidedly lower. My house, while not
on the main street. Is centrally and pleas
antly located, with a generous strip of
lawn. Il bit of garden in the rear, and some
1ruit and shade trees. The house is very
plain somewhat old-fashioned, and i'm
perfectly arranged. but 1t is in good repair
and has. unlike the houses of most of my
reighhors, the modern convenfences Of
gas, furnace and bath room. The rent is
$3.50 year. house equally good and as
well located could not be had in any uni
versity town or city that 1 know of for
double that sum. On the other hand, meats
and groceries are not very much cheaper
here than elsewhere; indeed, my wife Of
ten regrets the absence of large city mar
kets and stores. with their lower range Of
prices. 1 have recently been comparing
expense accounts for number of years
back. and find that the annual budget aver
ages about as follows:
Rent Observation-Disclosures. $3.50
Fuel. water and Observation-Disclosures. 200
Table and service. OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES. $50
Insurance Including life) and taxes. 70
Clothing NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.. $50
Contributions 20 church and local OBJ
jects Observation-Disclosures. 40
Books and periodicals. .............. 125
Total. .......................N,S $40
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
A Bodice Too Much.
From Pearson's Weekly.


A funny little story is told Of a certain
lady who was one Of Saturda y-to- Monday
house party in a country house recently.
She took her maid with her. blu. on the first
evening of her visit the hostess sent her
own attendant to help her dress for dinner.
The toilette was almost completed, when
the hostess sent for the maid. The guest
said she could finish dressing alone, and
the maid went away. Then the guest
missed the bodice Of her gown. 1t was
nowhere to be found. Evidently it had
been left behind
The dinner hour arrived. She was keep
ing the others waiting. She is a woman of
resource On the bed lay a white crepe
shawl. She picked it UP. threw it about
her shoulders, pinned 1t here and there,
AMI sailed down to dinner in a tosss-iike
garment-with the bodice of her dinner
gown dangling behind her from the waist
band hooks to which the maid had attached
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
ETHICS OF HOOK BoRnov,xc
HOW TO Take Care of a Volume Len
YOu.

From the Philadelphia Record
IN spite of Polonius' fatherly Injunction
I" Laertes, neither a borrower nor a
hhdcr De, most of US borrow a new bool.
no" or then or receive 1t from the generous
owner who insists upon lending it. Some
people take the book carelessly, others do
not rest until 1t is read and returned to the
keeping of it's proprietor.
the first thing to do with a borrowed
book Is to cover 1t with thick paper to pro-
tect the covers from accidental spla shes mr.
from lingering Do not wait q day or so
Dut cover IT at once as soon as you receive
II write the name Of the book plainly on
the paper cover, also the owners name. If
you are one OF large family and the Dor
rowed book is likely to be laid on a table
%here any one can pick it up, write on
cover, This book is not to be left m, tic
library table, for in spite of dainty 6cyen-
port arrangements the library table often
means close association with an inkstand.
VlnalSrette. or flower vase containing
water, or some receptacle of fluid which
may be accidentally overturned and spot
the borrowed book
DO not read little In the borrowed book
ana put 1t aside while you read three or
-FOUR other more interesting books Begin
II ana get through with il, reading as
steadlly as You can until IL is finished and
then return IL promptly Do not wait until
Thursday or Sunday because YOU will s,1re
~ see the owner them return it at once
ard then 1t will be safely OF your hands
IL Is provoking to have a book borrowed
ana Kept for an indefinite time; it prevents
others who may be awaiting the book from
the opportunity of enjoying 1t. If the bor-
rover finds herself not likely to find time
10 read It, she should return 1t at once and
ask for the privilege OF borrowing 1t an
other time.
Never. never. lend to another a book
That You have borrowed Let not tha,
piece OF superficial dishonesty be laid TO
ysur charge. Never permit your pencil TO
make any mark or annexation in a Dor
rowed book If You think a date Is mis-
stated or any piece OF information likely to
be of use in collateral reading recurs to
You. you are at liberty to write it on a slip
OF paper and 10 leave 1t in the book at the
page where IL belongs. No one should ever
score u passage or word in a borrowed
book. This is inexcusable.
Few of US could subscribe to Charles
Lambs suggestion. advising possessors OF
books TO be shy of showing Them but II you
do lend them Let ii be to one who will re-
turn them with usury enriched with an
locations TRIPPING their value"
Return a borrowed book in the condition
In which IL was lent. and as soon as pos
sible.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
She Had Lost Il.
From Pearson's Weekly.

From Pearson's Weekly
An old woman whose husband was i'll
in bed sent for the doctor. who came and
saw the old lady.
Il will send him some medicine" he said
on leaving, which must be taken In a
recumbent posture"
After he had gone the old woman sat
down, greatly puzzled.
The recumDent posture-a recumbent
postureF she kept repeating. II haven't
got one" At last she thought, II will go
and see If old Mrs. Smith has got one to
lend me-
Accordingly she went and said to her
neighbor:
Have you a recumbent posture to lend
me to put some medicine in?'
Mrs. Smith, who was equally as ignorant
as her friend. replied:
Il had one, but to tell you the truth L
have lost it,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
Queer Occupations for Women.
irQm the Chicaro TfrnoS Ha..1i

FROM the Chicago Times Herald.
Mrs. Barotti, Chicago woman. makes
good income by conducting a nut-crack-
Ing establishment. Mrs. Barottis place of
business Is known 20 all confectioners and
street vendors. Her business is now BOOM
ing, and it will increase until after the
holidays. Her establishment consists of a
long, narrow room. Down the center of it
extends long table surrounded by men,
women and children. In front of each per-
son is square iron slab with nuts piled
nigh on one side of It. Each worker has a
hammer and hammers away from morning
until night. Skill is required to extract the
meats without breaking them. A good nut
cracker can crack about sixteen pounds of
nuts day. They are paid about 81 6ay.
In the busy season Mrs. Barotti emLloys
from thirty to fifty hands
An enterprising Philadelphia woman has
novel manner of converting her muscle
into cash. She is an expert in floor clean
ing. Kitchen floors are her specially Eitch-
EN- floors nowadays are made of hard wood
or Tile or they are covered with oilcloth or
linoleUm. An expert can clean them with
great rapidity. This woman can clean the
average floor in half an hour, and her
charges are % cents. She carries her own
TOOLS, soaps and cloths. For each customer
she mas certain half hour on a certain
day. She earns from s. to 81 day. Many
women are now making good incomes as
professional members. Their chief Gus
toners are men. They have regular days
Tor each client They sew on buttons. darn
stockings, brush clothes, and the experts
are able to sponge and press clothes as
well as any tailor, at a reduced price. They
have certain boards and irons for the pur-
pose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30

P r h T T Y DANCE
at Tuxedo a few
evenings ago brought
out a number OF
dresses which may
be regarded as fore
casts of the fashions
Of the gay season.
One in which ] was
especially interested
was worn by a girl of
the English type,
slender a n d very
blonde. 1t was made
0f hllaa cilI< os n,lo
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
A MUTUAL RULE.
Self-Respect of Mistresses and Maids
I'm Housekeeping.

SeIf-Respect of Mistresses and Maids
in housekeeping
From Harper's Bazaar.
The best rule for managing servants is a
twofold one, simple in idea-complex
enough, but still possible in practice: Teach
your servant self-respect, and keep your
own.
For instance, a pleasant room to sleep in,
nice kitchen with plenty of serviceable
cooking utensils, good brooms ample tow
els and busters, fixed duties and egIlar
hours; these give and keep up self-respect
IN a willing handmade, he she cock or
waitress. She learns to call your house her
home, truly, and to take a pride in her
work.
On your own side an even temper a
pleasant but firm oversight of necessary
matters, systematic plan Of housekeep-
lng-all these keep up the mistress self
respect in dealing with her household staff
AS soon as you feel that you have been
careless, OF that you have lost your temper
IN trying moment, you realize that a
false position exists, that endangers your
self-respecting relation with your maid;
just as she feels, when her room is wretch
ed. her tools out of order. her hours of
work irregular and her training neglected
that her standard is confused and de,
graded.
The ideal mistress is always seIf-respect-
ing: and, having provided the essentials of
seif-respecting service, may reasonably ex-
pect the ideal maid to live up to the en-
portunlty. Ideals are perhaps never fully
realized, but this especial ideal Must be
Kept in view if Improvement, however
gradual, in household service is desired
1t is easy to remember; try it, and see if it
does not oil the wheels of your home ma
chinery.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
Give a Fair Forecast of the Coming
Winter Styles.
VELVET WILL BBAFAVORITE MATERIAL
Chiffon-Covered Blouses Intended
for Semi-Dress Affairs.
WRAPS FOR EVENING WEAR

Copyright. 1897, by Bachelor Syndicate)
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK October 81 1907
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-30
Human Hair Goods

Emporium in America. Established since ISIS
My stock In fine quality Of HUMAN HAIR
GOODS. the high-grade OF workmanship the i'm
mense variety OF stylish designs in various Colr-
frres. cfnnot be equaied anywherei
The Novelty for the Season Of 1897 and '9s q
the MARIE ANTOINETTE COIFFURE, 90
very becoming and stylish, and with the aid OF the
famous patented NEWPORT COIL, any lady
without any trouble. will accomplish q perfect
Couture.
ELUSIVE WIGS, Of my make, are the
standard Of perfection. as to fine and superior
workmanship.
Our HAIR DRESSING PARLOR d q per
feet Bijou! Numerous artists and experts for hair
colorinx On various shades) are constantly In at
tendance.
An exQuisite assortment q HAIR OREA.
MENTS. speciality.
ooLoRTD uLusr. F. CATALOGUE FREE
A. SIAOSSON.
a3s BROADWAY. NSr AND 22D sr2
oc2-sSt
The advocate., 1897-01-20
KANSAS REFORM PRESS.
The Annual Meeting Held at Topeka and New
Officers Elected.

The Annual Meeting Held at Topeka and New
Officers Elected.
The association was called to order by
Vice President Laura l.. Lowe, Presl-
dent Steinberger not being present.
DIR. McLsllln offered the following
resolution:
WHEREAS, The state Historical Society and
the State Library are both State institutions
and sustained by State appropriations, and
WHEREAS, The purchase OF miscellaneous
books from the State appropriation by the
State Librarian and by the Secretary Of the
state Historical Society results frequently in
the duplication Of books OF the expense Of the
State; therefore,
Resolued, That 1t Is the sense Of this assOcia'
tiOn that the miscellaneous department OF the
State Library ought to be transferred TO the
State Historical Society, leaving the law and
the medical library in charge OF the State
Librarian.
The resolution was laid on the table.
The Chair laid before the association a
communication from President Stein.
berger. 1t was laid on the table without
reading.
New members wee elected as follows:
j. G. Lohnes, Ness City Echo, M. l..
Hsrter, Harvey County Banner, Alfred
Finger, Girard Independent NesOs,
Grant W. Harrington, Hiswatha Demo.
CrGt, W. t. Logan, Colby Free Press.
The next order OF business being cleo
tion OF officers, j. p. Essterly, Eureka
Union, and George Harmon, Osksloosa
Times, were placed in nomination for
President. A ballot resulted in the
election Of Mr.. Harmon by a vote Of 10
to IL.
Laura L. Lowe was unanimously re-
elected as Vice President.
For Secretary Treasurer, E. Martin
dale, Lawrence JeferSoDiGD, and j. w.
Morphy, Topeka ADVOCATE, were nom
mated. Secretary Naugle declined to
accept q reelection. The vote resulted,
Morphy II, Msrtindale IL, Naugle 8.
The following we're made members OF
the Executive committee: J. p. Basterly,
Eureka linton, Z. Martindsle, Lawrence
JeferSontan, and d. P. HodgdOn, Lyons
Eagle. J. r. Lane, Abilene Monitor,
was placed in nomination, but declined
to serve.
President Harmon was then conducted
to the chair. A vote Of thanks was ex-
tended to Mr.. NRugle, the retiring Sec
retsry- Treasurer.
DIR. McLallin moved that the Secre-
tary be instructed to strike the name OF
the associations late President, A.
Steinberger, from the roll Of member
ship. The motion was passed unani-
mously.
Anna Chsmpe, Garnett AgitGt0r, and
D. w. Hull, Norton LiberatOr, were
elected to membership.
:. The resolution introduced by DR.. Nc
Lallin relative to the Historical Society
was taken from the table and adopted.
On motion Of Mr.. Naugle, Mrs. Annie
l.. Diggs was elected as an honorary
member.
On motion tho following bills were
allowed; Lyman Nauglc, job printing
The advocate., 1897-01-20
Topeka, KANSAS, JANUARY 20, 1897.

and Commissioner OF Forestry.-Jumper
To employ idle labor on roads and issue
notes in payment therefor. Campbell.
Nothing of Importance was accom-.
plished in the House except the seating
of members. This was done by lot, the
Republican members taking seats to-
gether on the south side Of the House,
the members Of the majority occupying
the seats on the north side and in the
center.
THURSDAY.
The following were among the bills Of
general interest introduced in the Senate;
To limit the borrowing power Of coun
ties, townships and municipalities. 49,
Cooke.
To regulate telegraph charges. Titus.
To establish county high schools and
provide for their maintenance Cole
man.
Senator Householder introduced a
maximum freight bill. The rates fixed
average 5 per cent. more than those fixed
by the Iowa law. The bill provides that
the State shall be- divided into three
Railroad Commissioner districts, the
commissioners to be elected by the
people.
Senator King introduced a bill reduc-
ing the charges for handling stock in the
Kansas City STOCK yards. Commission
firms are required to secure license
from the Executive Council before doing
business.
A bill revising the manner OF organiz-
ing corporations was introduced by Sen
stor Harris. The purpose Of the bill is
to discourage the organization OF wild
cat corporations and to protect investors
in the stock of corporations.
Senator Forney introduced bill max
ing general cut in the salaries Of State
officers and members Of the Legislature
The following were among the more
important bills introduced in the House
BY Trueblood-To fix the maximum
rate of taxation, to assess property at itf
real valuation, and to abolish the oficG
Of State Accountant. Mr.. TrueblooC
also introduced good roads bill.
Jackson Of Harvey introduced q bill
abolishing the Board Of Pardons anC
making the duties Of the board devolvG
upon the Attorney General; also one rs
ducing the compensation of the Clerk oi
the Supreme Court fixing the salary al
&3, 800 and requiring all fees to be turned
into the treasury. Mr.. Jackson also
introduced bill for State uniformity Of
xt-books.
Representatives Hackney and Arm
strong introduced bills TO prevent black
listing Of employees and to provide fol
regular payments Of wages by corpora.
tions
A bill by Representative Keefer re-
duces the charges Of express companies
and makes the companies subject to the
control Of the Board OF Railroad Com
missioners.
Representative Hackbush introduced
an act TO repeal the metropolitan police
law.
Representative FairChild introduced a
lCbnt'n1sd on page s.l