The times., 1897-11-14
these schemes of decoration are typical
Of the new ca ling WRAPS.

4
| of the new aIling wraps.
Almost without exception the small
shoulder pieces are made OF velvet instead
Of f1r. The nc longer ripple about the
| shoulders, but stand. two flat circles OF
| unequal width, straight out from the throat,
their edges wired to hold them In place and
! the collar Of fur or velvet, rolling up high
and close tothe chin and ears. Althe short
! fur shoulder pieces of last winters wear are
doing duty again. but this time with five
inch deep friils Of accordion plated satin,
] of some rich. bright Color, gathered on tO
the edge Of the tiny capes.
Every year common sense robs the heavy
mourning garb of one more Of its injurious
{! features. Less crepe decorates the toilets
for first mourning than ever; some of the
prettiest of the designs for widows even
show no crepe at all, and now the crepe bor-
dered net face veil is TO be reIinqnished. In
Its place one OF plain black tulle, and that
very fine, has been adopted, while, 10 bal
| anceevery thing, thereaF vel. Of femstitched
/ lusteriess black liberty silk fails all but
to the floor. Alternating with the new
] liberty silk bonnet wells are equally pretty
! ones OF dull finished black grenadine and
| really beautiful silk nuns yelling, the
| edge of which is either hemstitched or
completed With a line of embroidery. For
! the bonnet these goods are adopted in
! preference 10 the crepe, as, owing TO the
fashionable length of the weeper, only
the lightest weight materials are service
| able.
! WIDOWS bonnets are still severely simple
in decoration, but their shape has changed
radically. at least for young wonen who
are bercaved OF their life partners, They
wear fr9ms bent above tbs. brow in q
tiny peak, This being filled IN with white
lisse. over the bonnet's top the veil only is
arranged IL Ii simple scheme OF pIaits and
puffs, neld by dull-headed pins ana the
sonibcr setting of the face is relieved by
crisp White muslin de sole, Swiss OF Iuster-
less 9hitc ribbon strings knotted In
small bow under one ear.
Elsicrly widows cling 10 their straight
Swiss muslin cuffs and collars, but young
er women appear after the first month of
mourning in cuffs ana collars OF white lace.
laG flat against their black wrist and
neck bah,ls. or they wear Swiss muslin
cuffs a',d collars shaped like those Of older
woIncn, bat with harrow g0phercJ edges
The ist Of what may be easily selected
as mourning goods now Includes black
camsl's hair serge for street wear. church
carncl's hair while in the lighter weight
materials in the Invaluable Henrietta.
empress cl1sh, aud cashmere. Very elegant
gowns are made Of a new ana costly cloth,
narne1 after the Empress Eugene, who
never changes her mourning, aud. On It's
tusterlcss black ground shows large or
small patterns OF flowers and leaves, EN-
bossed IN rough wool.
Women 1Vh1 have > nrafeduf.e ae,air,ef
crepe or think it unhealthy are having
heir black costumes decorated with ba nds
Of moss trimming, which VIII outwear che
best c.epe. and Is not nearly so expensive.
II the happy custom now more amd more
10 relieve the melancholy gloom 0r mourn
Ing hoese gowns by a JudiciJus use of
white Hose at the throat, and for This
purpose cOiltrettes are especially made
and sold nthe shops. Even on immediately
assuming the suits Of woe tue neck deecra
tons u white are worn, made either Jr
Starehed linen, crisply laundered lava, oT
plated white chiffon.
= idea FOR graceful mourning house
dress is given this week as suitable for
woman OF any age under fifty. II is es-
recially offered to show how daintily and
effectively crepe can still be used if one
believes ii ci.Iging t. the traditional EN-
blem OF grief. Both skirt and waist are
created from plain black cashmere. ana.
trimmed With inoh-wide ruffles Of crepe
Set on the SKIRT Ia cluster band OF three
or five, placed very close together The
| wide collar and girdIe are made from
lustafless or mourning fsile, ana atoUt
the collar and edsiEg the side i.oints on
the waist runs . double ruffIe of creme.
Buttons OF dun Jet serve TO fasten tie
waist, and wide sash, win looms or
crepe, falls at the rear or the skirt. Into
the open throat left by the rolling silk
collar tits neck piece or plated white
chiffon.
Han mourning has come To be hardly
Interpreted as meaning black with white.
or black with lavender or mauve with
lavender is theusual acceptation now aClayS.
ansi an exemplification is given in The suitor
@inter wool net, made over a silk founda-
ton the cclor OF a lavender orchid. Law
endes ;':iffon fills the open front of tie
waist sshrough q buckle OF Jet the neckband
is drawn and wide black peau lie s.ic
ribbcn sash forms tie girdle, with side
streamerS. This is a suit designed for call
ing and theater wear. In TIE cheerfuger
realms OF dress it is noticed this week
that with pale blue a great deal Of Ilat;
Is So-iIlheu on evening mats, gowns, tant;Y
waists, ane en- pretty morning wrappers
At the theater it is impossible not to notice
the predcminance of white tuHe Eonnets
over al others, ana that every worlan
wears fancy belt with any gown she
pleases The belts are made OF wide ro-
man ribbon, laid III three plaits, fastened
in front with antique oxydized buckles
holding small cabouehon stones. At the
sides are rarrow jeweied slides, and at the
back pointed hinges Of silver. though OF
Imitation stones aud metal these belts are
decidedly decorative, and not at all ex-
pensive
A Monthly Envelope.
4 clever New no-la1la .,irI lln,irad \