Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-09-11

ponds on tho first impression, for these
! birds of passage are off after barely touch
| ing the city. Autumn days in the country
are too precious for dallying to deliberate
or bargain, and SO the up-to-date importer
| brightens her rooms and her countenance,
drapes her most taking dresses on the
| handsomest models she can call into re-
| QUESTION, sets out Russian tea or Turkish
| coffee and holds her breath to see how the
! bait is swallowed. Invitations to such an
| opening are dainty bits of stationery, and
| the service and the display of flowers equal
| to what would be seen at smart party or
reception.
Such an opening I attended yesterday
| with little interest 1t was a function
Of Importance, for would it not confirm
officially or deny the rumors that for weeks
| have been afoat of new DEGREES to which
| obedience is demanded by our sovereign
| lords and ladies. the fashion makers of
| Paris and London? When 1 entered the
| colonial parlors gay with asters and gen.
| tians, where neat little maids were tripping
| to and fro with trays, much as if waiting
| at an afternoon tea, the first things
! noticed were sleeves. 1t was impossible
| not to notice them, for all the women pres
| ent were exclaiming over them. Every
| model whose duty 1t was to walk up and
down in French frock like an animated
lay figure had perfect arms. These were
needed. for ircasing the arms were severe
coat sleeves. We have known all summer
| they were coming. 1t would have surprised
| us II there had been any hitch about their
arrival, but the meeting was a shock not
withstanding. The compromise puffs, the
little frills, the Vandyke caps and the lace
draperies of very moderate bulk that for
| months have acted as "avant couriers'' to
| bring down by degrees our notions of arm
coverings, were no preparations.
Trying to Many.
"But I am positively scrawny,'' said a
tall, thin woman, whose face, nevertheless,
was bright and attractive. IN tight
sleeves my long arms will be those of a
| scarecrow or living skeleton
and my short ones,'' broke in a dimpled
woman who was waging a gallant fight
with plumpness that threatened to add too
much to her appearance, my short ones
Will look like sausages, two on a string
divided at the elbow"
In the background lowered the modiste,
anxious and bent on reassuring. 1.-The plain
sleeves are most elegant, ladies'" she re-
peated. Everybody abroad is wearing
Them"
Plain sleeves, without expansion at the
shoulder, are unobjectionable on women of
good figure and a relief after the
enormities of a year ago; but to the ex-
tremes Of thinness or Of stoutness they are
bound to be trying. 1 do not think they
will become universal for months. The re-
bellion against them has gathered force in
the last two or three weeks, but 1t has not
much prospect OF success. To plain, tight
coat sleeves we are coming.
Once past the rock of stumbling. there
are fewer pitfalls than usual in the fashion
vista. Most of the skirt models on exhibit
ton were as narrow as possible in front
and on the sides; but they had all the full
ness they could carry massed in two
three box pleats behind. Bell designs and
gored patterns, usually in three pieces. al
most monopolize favor, though killed and
"sunburst" skirts are in the field
Skirt TrimmfuUn
AS regards skirt trimmings every woman
has free swing. The simplest tailor model,
untouched by ornament is as much in the
mode as the most frilly or fiouncy dress or
the most marvellous model Of tucks, folds
or gimp insertions.
Only one radical departure in waists is
promised. At the private opening referred
to 1 saw two or three women absent
mndedly lingering their threats as they
noticed the absence Of high neck bands.
Instead Of the stocks in which We have
choked all summer, at the first breath of
cool air comes low comfortable band with
out even q mass of ribbon behind. A trifie Of
lace or mist of chiffon is used for its
softening effect, but not enough to obscure
the fact that women have necks. a point
which might have been doubted for many
seasons. The women WING fingered their
threats may not care to show them. High
bands have produced any number of wrin-
kles and discolorations. If we wore them
much longer, we could never leave them
of, for smooth. fair neck would not be
in existence.
Jackets and blouse styles are falling be-
hind guimpa effects, flchu draperies and
cross-Cver arrangements being in favor
The swing of popularity is toward dressy
bodices of the same material as the skirt.
These are trimmed with odd frillings in
laces. and in unique and original devices
for the use of such soft draperics the mod
iste finds tho best outlet for her energies.
Col0rs and Materials.
The colors most In favor for the next few
months will be wood tones. many shades
Of blue. silvery grays, green and a deep. dull
red with lot of suppressed fire in it.
Smooth cloths Jostle shaggy ones on the
counters. The olive gray and opal gray
faced cloths and the deep red and hand
some brown csnvas-patterned woods, silky
and not SO aggressively coarse last sea-
son. are among the most successful novel;
ties.
The newest capes are extremely short
and drowned In q foam Of frills. The new
est Jackets have short. sharp revers franz
ing square Of heavy lace set over silk
or velvet just below the chin. They are
finished with Medici collars usually
In parlor car whose passengers were