The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1897-08-05

early in the season, the Dyea was in n most
gentle mood, and at no place was the water
much over knee-deep.
The day proved to be very warm, and our
party were as yet all new to the work of
carrying heavy loads over steep mountain
trail and very soon we were Struggling along
slowly, each one painting and laboring under
his load. Evening came while we were yet
some two miles from Sheep Camp, and as we
were all worn out we decided to pitch our
tent at the first available spot, which proved
to be near lovely liftle cascade. Here we
spent the night, and the next morning we
soon reached Sheep Camp
This is point just at the timber line,
where the two streams from the glaciers
unite and form the Dyea. We had SPLEEN
did view of these glaciers, and directly be-
tween their gittering expanses, stretched
far above Us the rocky slope of the Chill
coot Pass rising $500 feet above the sea.
Here travellers often bave to wait many days
for fair weather to cross the range; some
times as many rs 200 men have been here
at once waiting for a calm day. The pres
ence of six tents and the prospects of fine
weather gave lively appearance to the
place, and hearty supper of bean soup and
slaplacks, concocted by the young man who
was cooking himself in, - braced us up for
the climb over the summit.
At this noint, however, an unexpected
and most embarrassing incident arose which
threatened to put stop to the further prog
ress of the yukon Mail and Transportation
Co" The Chiicoot Indians, who enjoy the
monopoly of packing goods over the summit
to the lakes demanded Sl4 per hundred
pounds We had in our baggage over 1000
pounds of provisions and baggage, and the
President of the company did not have the
necessary cash to ay for the packing. The
oIly alternative was for us to do the pack
ing ourselves. AS this meant not only a
great delay, which might cause me TO miss
the steamer at Forty Mile, but also many
trips to and fro over the summit, | deter
mined at once to withdraw, and to endeavor
to join one of the other parties. Fortunately,
it happened that Mr.. de Windt was still at
Sheep Camp. His guide had crossed the
summit and was engaged in building boat
over on Lake Lindeman. l therefore went
over TO his tent and stated the predicament
in which / was. He Immediately expressed
himself most willing to accept me as a
travelling companion, and after taking leave
of the others l transferred my vallse and
blankets to his tent.
ChOSSlNt The SUMMII.
As the weather had been rather warm, it
was thought better to make the passage over
the summit by night as then the snow
would be harder. After waiting three days
at Sheep Camp, go as to give time for the
boat to he completed, we left there on the
evening of June IS, and started up the trail.
The Geological Survey party also left at the
same time There were about 20 Indians
with US, carrying packs. Some of these men
carried as much as $50 and IT'S pounds.
Even the squaws assisted in this heavy
labor and trudged patiently along with i'm
mense burdens.
We climbed along steadily until we
reached huge projecting rock, which is
known as Stone House Here we paused to
rest and enjoy another view of the glaciers
from about their own level We then re-
sumed our way, which became more and
more steep as we progressed, and soon we
found ourselves ascending vast snow fields,
and next we became enveloped in a cold,
dense fog. At times we had to wind around
among huge powders tina. blocked the way,
and often the gaps between them were
barely wide enough to creep through. At
times the trail led up the bed of q torrent
which was yet filed with snow, but at places
great masses of it had sunk down into the
rushing water. These snow bridges were
very treacherous and the passage over them
was not particular y agreeable. Soon after
midnight reached the last and hardest
climb, and took short rest before attempt
ing it.
This final crest was not only very steep,
but was all covered with loose stones, which
were very easily disodged, so that ca n one
Of US had TO be particularly careful, as the
slightest nisstep would start small ava
lanche of rocks down upon those behind.
At 2 a. M. a ringing shout from the one
ahead announced that the summit was
gained and the toilsome, dangerous climb
was finished. We rested for short while
to look around. In clear weather Nj. St.
Elias can be seen from here, but on this oc.
casion heavy fog obscured the view.
ARRIVAL AT THE LAKES
We then began the descent. On the inner
side the slope is much less abrupt; in fact,
it is gentle grade compared with the
rugged climb we had just made The en-
tire country was covered with snow, and
with grand whoop we all started together
in one long, wild slide down the mountain
Down we went, helter-skelter over the snow,
and in a short time we brought ourselves
together On the frozen surface of Crater
Lake. This is "a small pool, one mile in
diameter which forms one of the sources of
the Yukon. All the forenoon we travelled
on, following the stream down from Crater
Lake. The snow and ice were rapidly melt
ing, and this rendered the walking very
dangerous. Often while crossing the snow
bridges it was a very uncomfortable sensa-
ton 10 hear the rushing water beneath us.
We had to ford a number of deep side
streams, and often had to make long detours
around places where the ice was too weak to
sustain US. Before reaching Lake Linde-
man we had to cross a high ridge, where
heavy snowstorm came which added greatly
to our discomfort. After IA hours OF toll
some march we finally reached Lake Linde-
man, where We spent the remainder of the
day III resting and drying our clothing.
The Indians who packed our things over did
not appear to be the least fatigued, but at
once SET out to return to Dyea.
As our boat was completed, we made an
early start the next morning across Lake
Lindeman. This is pretty sheet of water
SIX miles in length. On our way down we
saw a pair OF mountain goats on the bank,
but Jailed to secure them. Lake Lindemau
terminates in rapid stream about one mile
long, which connects with Lake Bennett
Near the lower end of this stream there is
very bad place where the wafer PUSHES
violently among high rocks. 1t is customary
to unload boats i'm nm eddy above and maEa