davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
A Lassie S Wav.

O. down in the me adow the air was sweet
with breath of blooming clover
The blre-eyed grasses were kissing her feet
And an azure sky bent over;
But Mary's heart had a burden OF woe,
A burden she sought to cover
With a smile ard song, lest the world should
know
She had loved and lost, her lover.
Each daisy was nodding her snowy head,
And a zephyr stirred the grasses.
Sir boboliuk, saucily laughing, SAID:
"'Tis ever the way with lassies,
They think that a q larreI when once begun
Can be as easily ended;
But laddies are lost as laddies are won,
Sometimes when tits least intended"
But down through the meadow young Arthur
came
And the laughing skies bent over;
The zephyrs whispered maiden's name
And q trenor stirred the clover.
Though he spoke no word, yet he kissed her
brow
In spite of the chiding grasses,
And bobolink whistled: "Just see her now,
IT'S ever the way with lassies.''
The Peterson Magazine.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

| "show tendency to chine patterns IN the
grounds. and some of the patterns In the
grenadines recall quilting"
But newer than any of these are the
semi-transparent materials intended for
founcings that show an interviewer bor-
der, says an authority. "a large range OF
bareges are thus bordeTed, and plain col
ored voiIes with silk borders. some OF a
two-inch solid stripe, others about four
inches deep, formed of a narrow stripe in
peach and white, cerise and white, brown
and blue and other colorings. and occa-
sionally graduated. Some Of the latest
tweeds also display such torders.
printing has been applied to grena-
dimes, both as checked and foraIly, and
there are many varieties Of crepe de chine,
which, to be fashionable, must be dull,
with no luster." Some Of the quaintest o:
the bareges Of the most expensive varie-
ties are covered with twisted scroll
formed of outstanding loops like bath
towe!ing. Those considered stylish
twenty or thirty years ago are again en-
joying great vogue. Occasionally these
display pattern that looks as though it
was brocaded, produced in what seems to
be bubble of silk, and it partakes Of the
nature of matelasse. The smaller pat
terms are often thrown on check ground.
Shepherds plaids will be much worn,
and are seen in silk, in wool and in mix
lures that combine the two.
In the fancy grenadines We will shortly
observe considerable variety of small
lined checks in relief-"generally black
TIL s., lck
effective are black checks on grass-green
and blue on green. The fawn-checked
grenadines of black pattern are sure to be
worn with an admixture OF scarlet in the
togue or bonnet"
You will be surprised at the great beauty
of the grass lawns and all kindred weaves
some will have horizontal stripes OF
ValencienDes lace, interviewer on colored
stripe, sCc.. as Holland tinted ground, q
bright green stripe, subdued with a row OF
creamy lace. Blendings are to be had in
peach color, bright pink and pale blue.
No more delightful stuffs have we seen
for many long day. and besides their
manifest attractions they wear we'll and
have sufficient body not to become limp
like rags, and do not crease readily. The
diversity OF the checks on grass lawn
grounds is so great that every one will be
fully satisfied, and the colors that are
found in ombination are seldom inartis-
tic. For example, in one case, fawn, brown,
green and red figured with excellent re-
| suits.
The intermixture of tinsel thread in
woolen goods this winter was so much
liked that in several OF the mixed woolens
just uncased, this idea is again carried out
successfully. / must not forget to add
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

There will be neither frills nor iurbelows
this season about the well-groomed,
easy-going American man of business.
who has respect, but not veneration, for
Dame Fashion, and who pays his tailor,
his haberdasher and his shoemaker to see
that be is attired in accordance with her
reasonable edicts.
The ultra may 60 to extremes this
springtide as they do every season, but
the man who regards his attire from the
same point of view that he regards his
daily bath will dress this year comfort
ably and as becomes man OF business.
If he be of solid and athletic mold the
fashion in dress that will prevail will suit
him all the better.
The fashions for every day men this
season do not approach rakishness, but
provide for comfortable looking and feel
ing attire.
Scotch goods will be 'ths thing" this
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

@NHIC costumes always provide US
AE with ideas if we will but try to critic
IlJ ally analyze their indescribable
charms, even if we cannot have them re-
produced. in equally elegant materials.
Among numerous corrections there has of
late been made a lovely skirt of the palest
shade of Nile green, and with it goes a
bodice of green crepe, which has high
corselet that decreases in width in the GEN.
ter of the waist in front, and is of mauve
velvet. The low bodice is edged with
mauve velvet, covered with lace attached
with diamond ornaments. Fine lace is
used for epaulets.
Quite effective is a gown of pale rose
pink brocade. The bodice is exquisitely
cut, and down one side extend undulating
revers of the finest Alencon, and it al
most entirely composes the dainty sleeves.
Truly delightful we must all admit is an
embroidered crepe of delicate shell pink
inserted with motifs of lace embroidered
In silver. This silvered lace forms the en-
tire bodice. attached at the back and in
front with three straps of black velvet in
the shape of calice. The train is of
maize velvet of just the tone to blend
with the delicious pink. Black feathers
were worn in the hair.
The same pretty woman owns black
crepe de chine of the most superior quail
ity. 1t is closely embroidered in jet and
is handled so as to convey clinging
effect, and is made over royal purple
foundation.
white toilette greatly admire has q
bolero of real Irish point lined with pink.
Irish point is IN great demand at present,
especially for boleros, and when lined
with soft-coIored silk or satin lining the
result is excellent. Doubtless many such
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

that canvas of all sorts and kinds will be
worn. Last SUNNI only one OF our le ad-
ing houses imported the heavy, coarsely
woven variety, so fashionable East. In
appearance it is not unlike handsome
cloth and in color, the regular Holland.
1t can only be made up successfully by q
firstclass tailor, but when completed, nm.
der such circumstances, no more stylish
gown for evening or afternoon wear could
be desired, but of course it will not be IN
expensive. The same fabric is being ex-
tensively orGered by many leading mer.
chants for their summer trade.
There is nothing more novel than the
mousselines de sole painted in pale colors,
in imitation of old brocades. Dresses
made out OF these gauzy stuffs are
trimmed with tiounces cut bias, alternated
with lace. The bodices are adorned in
the same way and finished at the waist
with wide pleated bands of bright color
in mirror velvet OF a strongly contrast
ing shade. with three rhinestone buckles
upon one side.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

The correct collar to wear with this dress
is one moderately high and turned down.
1t should be encircled by plain Club
bow. For semi-dress straight high col
lar should be worn and the cravat should
be an imperial.
There is no need to write about fashions
in male undergarments. There are people
who wear hand-painted silk socks that
cost $50 pair and silk underwear that
costs $l00 suit, but the solid going every
day business man will continue to wear
well-made Isle thread hose in black or
tan and underclothing of the same a.
terial, or of wool, in their original colors.
A man who wishes to dress according to
this fashion can purchase a suit of clothes
for $40, his hats for 81 or SIS each, his shirts
for 81 so, his collars for 20 and 25 cents
zach, his neckties for IS cents and 81. his
underwear for 81 garment and his SOCKS
for so cents pair.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

When you have an accumulation OF
remnants and do not know exactly what
to have the home dressmaker work on,
allow me to suggest that many fascinat-
Ing tea jacket has been evolved under just
such circumstances.
Zone of the prettiest lately seen was
pink brocade with a pink chiffon front,
having quite narrow basque, all sewn at
the edge with pearls, strip OF white satin
descending from the shoulder to the bust,
on either side edged with pearls, and the
puff to the top of the sleeve having the
same strappings carried down at intervals.
Next to pink in favor comes dark green,
and for quiet tea jackets worn in London,
where the hostess receives her friends on
her return from her daily drive, DARK
green chiffon bodices with red and green
shot ruffled sleeves and pleated bolero
are very fashionable indeed. These sleeves
are continued over the hand in points.
with deep ruff1e at the wrist and a roll
collar of red satin supplemented by lace"
No longer are dainty women content
with the regulation bed jackets of flannel
or of EN- broid red Japanese silk. Instead
they have chic little affairs of silk and
null, or silk in combination with either
chiffon or mousseline de sole. These gar
ments are lined with a very lightweight
flannel or with nuns yelling. Many are
made up during this Lenten season that
would serve as models of elegance. By
these trivial things the naturally refined
woman shows her taste. MARoELLA.
Mrs. Abner Mckinley. while visiting
New York just before the Inauguration,
purchased handsome empire cloak of
brocaded velvet that shades from crimson
to violet. The colors blend perfectly, and
scattered over it are most gorgeous chrys-
anthemums. At the bottom is valance
of violet velvet, and up the front is grad
uated velvet ruff1e, with an inner one of
black chiffon. The high collar of violet
velvet has an inner one of point lace, and
the entire garment is lined with violet
satin.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

slight concession in favor of soft outing
Fedoras The derbys which will be prin-
cipaily worn this year will have round
crown of medium height and an almost
straight brim. They can be of black or a
light brown to suit the taste of the wearer.
hat with the same crown but with
slightly turned brims will also be con-
sidered good form. The semi-plug, big
crowned, square-cut hat, which has been
worn a. little during the winter, will be
relsgated to oblivion, where it belongs.
1t is monstrosity which should never
have been perpetrated upon the public.
In accordance with the soft Scotch suits
they will wear, well-dressed men will
don looseIyftting shirts in Madras. per-
cale. French flannel and China crepe.
The bosoms of these will be printed
mostly in checks. but stripes have not
been altogether tabo oed. The cuffs should
match the shirt.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
RE in WHICH THE M4N BUSINESS WILL NOW BE SEEM

spring for material for suits for everyday
wear. Softly finished goods that always
make man look well will be the fashion.
Hard-inlshed stuffs-diagonaIs and all
their kind-will find poor market this
year. Even for semi-full dress soft ma
terials will be used.
While the square-cut sack. which has
been so popular, will lose Its prestige it
will still be in vogue. But the cutaway
sack has usurped its place as the cut for
coats in the estimation. Of the man of busi-
ness who dresses well. !
The neatest thing shown by San Fran
cisco tailors for wear during the present
season is four-button cutaway sack OF
solid colored Scotch tweed. The ''cuta-
way" is slight, practically being but the
rounding of the corners of the coat. The
lapels are rolled back from tho collar to
reveal double-b breasted vest that is cut
V-shaped in 'front.' This innovation in
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

the vest was brought about by wise men
who finally succeeded in convincing
tailors that decollete waistcoats and f1aring
shirt bosoms could scarcely be considered
the proper thing for men of business to
wear during the hours they were at work.
The trousers are made of the same
material as the coat and vest. and they are
cut much in the same fashion as those of
last season, except in the bottom of the
legs, which are cut narrower, and in this
the only objection to this otherwise per-
feet business suit is found. Straight-cut
trousers with slight spring at the
bottom will always be the most popular
with business men.
A three-button cutaway sack, made on
the same style, with a wider fare at the
corners, will also be in vogue, but it does
not deserve to be-and probably will not
be-as popular as the four-button sack.
In hats the style will run to derbys, with
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
i kentucky Belle.

The lovely Miss Alice Castleman ap-
peared at the charity ball in New York in
black creation, little yellow about her
low-cut corsage being the only touch OF
color about her otherwise somber gown,
but the black formed an admirable set
ting for Miss Castleman's blonde lowell
ness. On this, her first appearance, her
beauty created profound sensation. and
one of the daily papers sent special cor
respondent down 10 see her in her own
environment, and the frontispiece of the
next Sundays edition was adorned by her
classic features and page was devoted to
the interview with her.
Miss Castleman's beauty deserves the
need of praise it is receiving, for seldom
does one find more perfect face and more
perfect figure united in one person. Her
appearance might be described as fault
lessly faultless. In her Kentucky shows
once again that her fame for fair women is
well deserved.
do not know the age of this new belle,
but as rule black is far to old for young
debutantes. AS paradoxic as it may
seem, all debutantes are not youthful;
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

woke with the ietted lace. letting the lace
run down IN points at intervals all round
to break the effect of a straight line. Make
the blouse with yoke and cover the yoke
and the top of the sleeves with the lace.
Rnt perhaps the greatest marvel the
times have perfected Is the loose lacKes
that in the beginning was howing ana
wide, and is now metamorphosed oy the
chic tailors into an effect OF slimness and
length. This jacket is the principal eie-
ment in the serge gowns and the bicycle
dress for spring. It is drawn as close to
the figure as keeping it straight will allow,
for it must not curve in anywhere. an apr
parent contradiction that gives rise to an
entirely new effect. hARcELLA'
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

row skirt, covered with founces; now it
is countless pleats or innumerable godets.
that fall over an underskirt, not of silk,
but of flannel, and so drag and cling with
siren grace. These novelties need not
trouble the dressmakers much until after
Easier, as they are intended for thin mate
rials; nevertheless here is a model. The
materials are gray surah, shot with black
and black jetted lace or passem.nterie.
Make a black-lining skirt and cover the
top smoothly with the surah; to this add
plated skirt of the surah, sewing it on
some FIVE or six inches down from the
top so as to leave yoke. Cover the
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
A. You
~ Aware

That James M. Moran & Co.,
1909 1915 Market street, near
Sixth, bet. Sixth and Seventh,
are offering the finest values in
Ladies Gents and Children's
Underwear and Hosiery in all
this big city! Gents Black
and White Striped Overshirts
sold for soc you can get at
Moran'sfor 25c; also soc White
Laundered Dress Shirts for 25c.
Give them a trial. Inspect
their goods. 1t will pay you.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Thought the Judge Hospitable.

At the Durham (England) Assizes an
action was tried which was brought by one
neighbor against another for trifing
matter,
The plaintiff was very deaf old lady.
and after little while the Judge sug-
gested that counsel should get his client
to com promise it, and ask her what she
would take TO settle it.
The counsel shouted out very loud to
his client:
''His lordship wants to know what you
will take?"
She at once said:
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

ribbons the results are charming. White
is the most satisfactory always, as it
washes SO well, but green and pink are
both good colors. Mothers should always
endeavor to have such dresses made in as
childish manner as possible. for therein
lies their great charm. However, Ameri-
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Our Hair

Must now he worn waved behind and
fastened up straight-not twisted-"with
comb that goes across the back of the
head. and is just seen below the edge OF
the hat. Then the hair is made into
loose twist just at the top of the head"
The bow coiffure is well liked and rather
becoming. For it the hair is tied in a
smooth bow quite high on the head and
finished with looped coil which is just
visible in front.
A large number of New York girls have
an absurd fad for gray hair, their idea be-
ing to try and appear very intellectual.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

can mothers excel all others in the beauti-
full dressing OF their children.
For wear with their little summer frocks
are being shown in New York jackets of
fine lightweight broadcloth, stitched in
five rows of white silk thread on the re-
vers and around the hem. The sleeves
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
The Children

Look like little angels in the delicious
dainty frocks many mother has had
fashioned at home under her own watch
full eye. On these wee, garments many
yards OF narrow lace are being used, so
numerous are the irills they must edge,
and when combined with narrow satin
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Emerald Hues.

Green promises to continue in high
favor, and lately a leader of fashion wore
an exquisite dinner gown of two shades of
green. The front petticoat and vest of the
bodice were of seafoam green, embroid-
cred with ferns of the dark natural green
tones. The remainder of the dress at the
back and sweeping train were OF the dark
green in glistening satin. The long sleeves
and low neck were finished in artistic
bands OF the seafoam green, embroidered
in fha natural ferns.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

These maidens are all between Is and II,
and they leave lock of their natural hair
at wigmaker's, with instructions 10
somewhat match it by shades of gray hair,
not at first too far removed from the origi-
nal color. toupee affair is purchased to
be worn la false bangs. The gray hair g
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Radical Changes

Are to be noted in al! spring gowns, and
the most noticeable are those recently
made in our skirts. Such changes have
long predicted. but now they are an estab-
lished fact. The other day it was a mar
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

for example, those who have made their
social entree for three, four or even tve
winters in succession may indulge in
black, but the dear, fresh, starry-eyed,
goIden-haired fairies should wear only
the most delicate of hues-inceed, con-
slider them most lovely when in pure white.
Another handsome toilet reverses the
contrast, as the principal part is of polka
dot brocaded satin, with light pink en-
broidery on the panels. a debutante's
frock at the same dinner carried out the
contrast well, as the dress, OF light-biue
China silk, was crossed by rows OF dark
blue ribbon, as was also the vest. two PAN
els of the skirt and the wide girdle. The
bodice was held together with dark silk
cord in the old hioned way, so becom-
ing to slight graceful figures.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

For practical gowns the white grena.
dimes, thickly covered with spots the
size of pea in silk of some bright color.
promise to be liked almost as well as those
woven to resemble lace,-those that are
dotted on the tussore grenadines with
bright checks thrown over them, or the
gayly colored grounds covered with q
white net, as if coarse lace had been
placed over them.
Numerous are the grenadines and
bareges with black effects in color thai
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

The average value of each of the wax
figures at Madame Tussaud's exhibition
in London is said to be over ESQ.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
are carefully intertwined with the dark
locks, and one is perfectly up to date.
Spring Costume.

One OF the newest is composed OF dark
blue and white shepherds plaid. The
bodice has wide pleat, both back and
front, which narrows toward the belt.
The skirt is plain, with a wide pleat in
front, which spreads out wider at the
front and is fastened down just behind
the waist line. There are few white
pearl buttons on the front pleat in the
bodice about the bust, and dark blue
surah forms the belt and collar.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Hbout Fans.

Strange is it not that but comparatively
few women have ever devoted themselves 8
to fam painting with the smallest degree
of success?
1t is so truly feminine occupation-the
painting and mounting-that one should
imagine that women would excel in it.
However, such is not the case, and one OF
the most beautiful fans over seen is tn Q
work of F. Houghton, the renowned Eng
lish fan-painter. The center delights the
eve by the most charming representation
of the minuet. This gem is surrounded
by q frame OF delicate Honiton lace, the
production of a clever worker and
draughtsman. In this design are COM
bined the rose, thistle and shamrock, sur
rounded by en- appropriate border.
The mountings are of tortoise shell.
Point de gaze is the favorite lace at
present for rare fans, and this exquisite
CO bweb texture is fancifully shaped to
either surround or interlace single, double
or treble medallions in kid or crepe, these
being enriched with rare paintings.
Beautiful empire fans are being shown.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

81 thank his lordshir kindly, and, if it's
no i'll convenience to him, I'll take little
whisky warm. Tit
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

These fans are made in solid gold and
silver and painted in oils. One recently
finished was Millet. The home Of the
present Millet, where "The Angelus" was
painted, appeared on one stick; anoth er
depicted the noted field; another the dis
tant church. the old woman, and so on.
The final stick contained portrait OF
Millet.
Mother of pearl picked out with gold is
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

boleros will be seen in connection with
our spring bodices.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Gloves.

For wear with tailor dresses only heavy
dogskin gloves are correct, and for calling
all delicate shades OF suede that will har.
monize with the gown are worn. For teas
and receptions in the day time some still
prefer white glace kids, black stitched,
with four buttons. However, they are no
longer In demand, and for the evening
white or light-coIored suede are liked.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
White and Gold.

To have an artistic table is the aim of
every hostess, and nothing can be prettier
than white ana gold dinner; besides, it
is easily arranged. Golden-lined flowers
and ribbons of satin that match can read
lily be placed on a handsome damask cloth
with delightful results, cut glass and sill
yer assisting the effect. The ices, punch,
icings of the cakes and bonbons must all
be of the same hue, as we'll as tho shades
of the lamps. If the hostess has golden
hair and wears white and yellow gown
the results can be imagined.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
Tea Jackets.

have six small white pearl buttons or
each of them.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21

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The San Francisco call., 1897-03-21
For Evening Wear.

Mother OF pearl picked out with 6
also favorite mounting.