The herald., 1897-03-21
WILLBESMART
The Attire of Those Who
Worship Fashion
IN TAIL0R.MADE COSTUMES
Some Radical and Startling Changes Are
Contemplated
IN TAILOR. MADE COSTUMES
Long Transparent Sleeves to Be Worn. A
Charming BIouse-Somethlng New
in Accordion Pleated Skirts
Regular Correspondence to The Herald.

NEW YORK, Marcn lD.-IHe tallor-
made gown Is to lose its primness this
season. The modistes say that only per-
sons who live ever SO far from the mad
dening crowd will wear the plain sort
except the women who have to work for
their living. These latter, fashion says,
may wear the tailor-made contrivance
In any way they please, because, l sup
pose, of the fact that the majority of
them look well In whatever they wear.
From this fact 1t will be seen that the
woman of fashion who wears tailor
made costume must be sure that 1t is
smart. Elegant, indeed, are some or the
new styles. One Is of dark green ma
terial, the skirt cut on a new and admir-
able principle. Tubular braid is intro
duced on the front, forming handsome
knot on either side. 1t would be dill
cult to find a more becoming fashion. X
fits the back and in front describes a
couple of points. Without being close
fitting, 1t indicates the figure as well as
II 1t were A little gold brightens up the
braiding and the waist coat and collar
are bright red. This is particularly be
coming to a slender woman. Persons
short and stout, and already inclined 20
embonpoint should avoid it. This is
one of the penalties the woman with
plenty of avoldupois must pay for the
possession of the flesh that is here.
Among the other pretty dresses that
are to be popular, / notice dark green
cloth embroidered around the front ana
at the back of the skirt with Renais-
sance design formed of braid and lace
stitches in black. This is carried up the
front at the side seams, and the mauve
velvet cross-cut slightly pleated waist
band and collar brighten the dress con-
siderably. The bolero is edged with the
same black embroidery and the vest is
of black chiffon. The tailor-made skirts
are no fuller than they have been, but
this remark does not apply to other
styles. A rough broche cloth, in which
many colors are blended, presents an
attractive appearance when made up in
this fashion: Handsome braiding down
the skirt and on the front of the bodice,
the latter cut in the new, prevailing
style, with the wide shoulder cape, over
which the lapels are carried on to the
shoulders. These are not of the usual
form, but are rounded at the tips and
the full vest of silk or suitable material
comes beneath.
see constantly more proof of what
have said about brocade. There is no
question but what black velvet brocade
Is marked feature in the new seasons
stuff. In many of the familiar tartans
in which red, yellow, green and violet
are. all interblended, there are. on the
surface, close set stripes of black velvet
interviewer. Tiny pin spots in white
form an outstanding surface on many
pretty checks In simple glace, such as
pink and white. Pink Is certainly prom
inent this season. Some small pink
and black checks display white satin
stripes at intervals and this design is
repeated in many colorings.
With all these varieties, however. the
more beautifC of the brocades hold
their own. Floral scrolls in two color5
are thrown on satin grounds and these
in turn discover also species of shadow
scrollwork. Very beautiful are some
of the shadow patterns in which tones
mingle, such as green, blue and gold.
Another uncommon pattern is ground
work of a conventional floral design,
covered with corded effect running
through flowers and ground alike, and
produced in white and blue and In white
with either green, brown. peach or car
dinal red. Some of the large white pin
spots are thrown on a design of reeds
in satin, and both flowers, ribbons,
clouds and seaweeds appear to be treat
ed as a ribbon scroll. The basket work
weavings in which many bold checks
are carried out, give great richness.
These the generally in white, black or
some solid color.
The long transparent sleeves for our
swellest dresses will reign throughout
the season, there is no doubt. Another
certainty in connection with this Is the
fact that 1t will cause reintroduction
of silk openwork and lace mitts Short
gloves with the long sleeves look patchy
and the long ones are practically out
OF the question with the transparent
sleeve. So you see there seems to be
nothing to do but to wear silk mitts, even
though the skins of some of US enter
vigorous protest and give positive proof
that that protest is well grounded.
Some of the new bodices are so del
icate, the top portions beirn principally
composed of flowers, that 1t will be al
most impossible to wear wraps of any
kind over them. The smartest way out
of the dilemma is little pelerine of
brocade, just big enough to fit around
the neck and shoulders, not to fall down
over the floral berthe. One or two
have seen are trimmed with swans
down. than which few things are pref
tier and none more becoming to young
fresh, fair face. Those of us who have
left those charms behind have to be
wary of this snowy whiteness.
Long wraps for evening wear are still
the favorites. and will be much worn ex-
cept when bodices are unusually crush
able. A particularly lovely one is In
pale bright green brocade with design
Of conventional roses in pink and black,
% well as q curious sort of shadowed
lily design in the green itself. There is
q deep collar and revers faced with
white satin and embroidered with
emerald jeweling and golds There Is
also a high collar filed In with fine
pleatings of pale green chiffon. The
sleeves are long and finished with chif-
fon at the cuffs.
Accordion pleated skirts in graduated
width Of pleat are indeed smart. The
pleating is prettily called "sun-ray"
since It widens out from waist to hem as
che genial rays of King Sol do from
their birth until their disappearance
from our ken. In a new black silk dress
Of this kind the idea Is emphasized by
lines Of small black sequins in gradual
ed length down. the center OF each pleat,
but not continued to the hem. only about
half way down the skirt. The bodice Is
of sunset pink shot silk, veiled in black
net, the front having cunningly devised
revers Of Jet and steel embroidery. The
shaped and folded waistband is of the
sunset pink silk and a small bow to
correspond appears on the collar.
Some variations on the bow-knot
theme in jewelry are very curious. A
novel pattern shows two bows In the
shape of q figure 8 seen sideways, of
different sizes, overlapping each other,
70 that the smaller one rises partly above
the larger one It Is q pretty hair-comb
head and at its top short aigrette
shoots upward. Another design exhib-
It's q narrow diamond ribbon arranged
Into three loops, vaguely reproducing
The ou&Iinss ora heur-de-lik Tkste II \