The herald., 1897-05-23
The Color Will Figure Ia
All Trimmings
CANVAS AND GREEN SILK
TURQUOISE TO BE A FEATURE or
BELTS-EMBRoIDERIEs
Green Birds Wings for the Hair.
Moire Coming Into Favor-Re-
turn Of the Turban

turn OF the 1UIU00
NEW YORK, May 18.-This Is going
to be gold year. I have no reference
to politics whatever, for we that court
Dame Fashion don't care a cent who 10
elected. What mean is that gold IL to
figure largely in all trimmings for gowns
this year. II you have dress that you
are going to have silver and gold braid
put on. see to 1t that there is more gold
than silver. or you will be questionable.
Woman has long been credited with
an overweening fondness for uniform,
the result of the gold lace that makes 1t
gorgeous. Now woman is to wear that
which she most admires, and we may ex-
|pect to see semi-military and semi-nauti-
cal costumes on all sides. This will par
ticularly be the case In REFER suits.
which are bound to be very popular. For
tailor made dresses, there are many pat
terms in black braid edged with gold
cord. There are zouaves of every shape.
kind and design. Some of these are cut
in a point In the center of the back with
gold fringe appended which reaches to
the waist. There are gallons with gol1
cloth down the center, and bead. en-
broidery of gold on either side.
When gold is not in favor. steel Is. It
is not only employed as embroidery, but
cut steel brooches and buttons and steel
clasps and slides figure on everything
dresses, dress bodices, dress belts, hats
and toques. and many of the new fash
ioned outstanding coronet combs are
made Of the same. while steerornamenta
are supplanting diamonds There is only
one thing about this steel craze. 1t Is
absolutely necessary to preserve the or
namentation that rust be religiously
prevented. ts
The very latest gown, the one which
the truly fashionable have endorsed. IL
of string colored canvas made up over
green silk, the foundation and the skirt
being quite distinct. This opens to show
a narrow front formed Of three fiounces
of the canvas with deep green ribbon
hemmed in. and the entire depth closely
Killed, three In the depth. The skirt III
also hemmed In with green while the full
bodice is draped across and fastened on
the left side, two shades of mauve and
pale green mingling with the collar band
and the waist band. s4
Green glace silk is covered with black
check canvas with a roleau in the hem.
This Is accompanied by cape Of the
same left with an open square In front.
held together by two bias bands Of black
velvet. box pleat at the back and the
high collar cut In ons,with the cape. 1t
reaches only to the elbow and has ro-
leau about two inches from the waist.
The bodice Is the most original feature
of all. 1t is composed of printed NOUS
seline de sole, the ground cream but lit
tie seen and almost every color appear
ing in the pattern. 1t is made up over
pink silk and this very thin filmy fabric
forms enormous puffinss to the ruffled
sleeves. Round the waist are three
bands of black velvet. held In by very
ornamental buttons set in with some
pretty but not costly ornementations.
something that will take the blue of the
silk muslin.
A much simpler gown than the one
described is of fawn canvas made UP
on. the foundation and bordered On the
foot with scroll work of narrow silver
braid. The body shows open-work
squares, worked in gold to match. A
high bodice in.the fashionable deep rose
glace shot with white. has series Of
waved, converging lines of narrow white
| insertion, starting from the shoulders
and forming points down the front only
few inches apart, embroidered at each
end with black and pink silk-certainiy
a most original bodice. The coloring of
this is rather newer than the old pink.
| for it has a dash of fame in 1t. 'o
| Although many Of the new dresses
have narrow, all-round basques. these
are generally surmounted by belt.
either of gold or silver gallon worked
with tensel thread or turquoise, or some
of the many paste gems. more literally
used juet now than is altogether con-
sistent with godd taste. The attention
of the fashionable woman must be d.
rected this year to turquoises and beau
tifuI boleros, and waist belts of grassy
green coloring are studded cloeely with
them. In the case in question tits most
difficult to tell whether the stone Is green
or blue, the green foundation intensity
ing that color in 1t.
One of the most effective ornaments
for the hair that promises to be popular
this seaeon, is made out of two out
stretched birds wings of irideCcent
green, with a small cluster Of roses at
| their DdSt. huIiOI udS ~ tHdt tuC III
ban is to be revived. Although this
species of headgear is not generally be-
looming, it is delightfully."- convenient to
wear. So l think 1 can safely say the
turban is to be with us, at least to q
Limited extent.
Moire is again to be in universal favor.
The silken fringe which was wont TO
decorate the black silk dresses IN the
olden daye Is also to be worn. Tnis
fringe, which is half an inch In width
made of silk, appears on many OF the
newest models, in triple rows around
the skirt and in trimming the sleeves
It Is also to be seen in decorative COM
bination with crepe du chine and crepe
du chine makes many Of the prettiest
eashes when 1t bears knotted silk
fringe at the ends. -
The embroideries for the fronts of
gowns this coming season are beaf- '
some on lisse and net are worked 9imat
corners with light floral patterns, Y me
are made right and left SO that oi ~.
two can be used. In these greenonv
mink tinsel and paillettes Of fainpieau.
mingle with gold, silver and pealquite
something Of that nature. The arctic
trimmings for evening are nearlt She
the stomacher shape, continued2 goes
TOP as far as the shoulders. TdS ss 40
worked also In paillettes, .jey are on
tinsel thread, SO that the mxs. ..-Lon-