The record-union., 1897-09-26

it. Very handsome looked some French
round hats, shown this week, formed
of sunburnt straW-much like ecru MI
lans-trimmed with a chaplet of eXqul-
sitely shaded JacQue roses and foliage,
with high loops of wide satin ribbon of
the same rare red color, arranged at
the left side Other hats of the same
color, or of dark reseda straw, We're
bound on the edge and trimmed with
amaranth red velvet, With clusters Of
velvet damask roses devoid of foliage
set on one side.
The "damask" silks of a generation
ago reappear under the name of Lyons
brOcatelles. Stripes of black satin give
a rich tone to these brilliant fabrics.
Much violet, green, red, and pale gold
are blended in elegant peau de sole tex
tiles, with a demi-lustre and a tWillled
surface.
Concerning various skirt models, the
three piece and five-piece skirts will be
favored for making up autumn dress
fabrics. The modified seven and nine
gored shapes viii be used for dark satin
foulards, light woods and soft repped
goods. For very slender figures are
new French skirts with breadths of the
dress goods left their entire width with
the exception of the gored front
breadth. The full breadths are adjust
ed either by pleats or gathers. Other
styles follow a model heralded last
spring, i. e., a skirt with a deep hip
yoke, with kits. folds, accordion pleat-
ings, or alternate wide box pleatings,
and five fiat pleats attached to the low
er edge of the yoke. The model will be
used in plain light woods, and many of
the French fancies and Scotch plaids in
silk and wool or all wool With these
pleated skirts will be worn either a
Russian blouse matching the skirt in
kind, or of velvet, or else one of the
new pretty jerseys or jersey-shaped
bodices.
Among dress trimmings the season
opens with a very beautiful and elabo-
rate exhibit of silk-cord gimps, beaded
galloons in new colorings in mono
chrome, and also tri-color effects; very
handsome applique ornaments, a very
few of which impart great elegance to
the gown; charming sets, comprising
girdle, standing collar, sleeve points
and Etons. There are likewise ex-
tremel yfine jetted garnitures, shaped as
half bodices, braces, fiat and standing
epaulettes, revers, oddly-shaped vests,
and very novel ornaments for the
sleeves, arranged in modified styles To
sui, their reduced shapes. These deco
rations are in every variety of design
and certainly not extravagant in price
when one remembers the future use
that can be made of them.
On French overskfrted gowns, some
have very long sharp shawl points
trimmed with triple frills, sometimes
wide, sometimes very narrow. On such
gowns the underskirt is trimmed tc
match, but the greater portion of the
underskirts are finished with a deer
machine stitched hem
On French overskirted gowns some
have no deep in-and-out curves, ripples
or even tiny wavelets. They are fiat
silk-faced, and fitted smoothly, anC
they may be tabled, cut in short ol
longer Vandyke points, scalloped anC
bound or knitted on the front and sides
with natty button trimmed position
backs. Regarding the arrangement O
bodices, while many of the new gown.
show them fastened directly down The
/ front, with a line of handsome button.
very much in evidence. invisible fast
enings are still much favored, and the,
are set in very odd places and irregular
and one-sided effects prevail extensive
ly. Very few of the youthful Frencf
bodices are trimmed alike on both side.
and in many instances only the lef
side is decorated after the fashion o
the finishing of the new Russian blouse
A very closely fitted sleeve with
crisp little puff that has not the slight
est superluous material under the arms
is one of the favored models both fo
dress and utility wear this fall Quit
as popular also is the much modified
mutton-leg shape, smooth and snus
from wrist to elbow, but generally Will
leaf-point finish or flaring tabled cuf
falling over the hand. A number o
new sleeves in light woods show a yer.
close forearm portion buttoned its en-
tire length on the outside with thre'
( outstanding tucks between the buttons
or three rows of Milan braid are useC
instead of the tucks. This arrange
ment continues until the small shoulde
puff is reached. On demi-dress gowns
| the wrinkled mousquetaire sleeve ap
pears with a diminutive globe-like puf
at the top.
Black silks are again greatly in favo
and are in such great variety that it i
difficult to know what to buy. Th'
plain shiny silks are very smart, bu
not so satisfactory as the gros grain
and peau de sole, which are TO b'
greatly in favor. Small figured pat
terms in brocades and plain satins ar
not tabooed. although not to be PLACED
among the most desira BILE. ColoreC
silks of all kinds and brocaded effects
particularly for older women. are yer!
stunning in design and coloring. Ont
of the newest fashions is to have I;
black silk made with facings, ining
and bows of some bright color Tur