New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-19


the exteriors are freshened with paint, the walls
are scanned and cracked with frost. WIN no
table exceptions. like the magnificent Cathedral
OF ST Isaac. the architecture lacks originality
and distinction OF style There are few really
fine streets. the Nevski Prospect Itself. when
Kazan Cathedral the Bazaar the Imperial Ii
brary, the Alexander Theatre and the Anitchkof
Palace have been passed. degeneratinc into a
commonplace avenue lined with low frame build
ings Scenic beauty. panoramic effects ana rea4
dignity Of architecture are conspicuously lacking
in the Russian capital.
TREAsURE-HOUsFs OF ART
The interiors OF the churches palaces and
museums are. however. rich and splendid. and
offer ample compensation for external defects
and nonotonous rocco and Byzantine treat
ment The churches, with their magnicence oi
ritual have described in previous letter. anl
I hesitate 10 say anything about the best II the
art palaces. the Hermitage so bewiidering have
been the impressions Of two mornings spent 10
that wonderful treasure-house. Ii is one ~ the
greatest art galleries in the world. riyalling the
Louvre in paintings. If not In sculpture. ana eN-
ceiling the National Gallery in London n mas
terpieces OF the Italian. Spanish and Flemish
SCHOOL, There are Four Raphaels including the
EXQUISITE la Vierce Dc In Malson Able sIlen-
did examples OF Guido Rent. Leonardo da Ninc
and Andrea del sarto; the famous Titians from
the Barbarigo collection; marvellous series %
Spanish pictures. with eighteen Nurilos. IN
Guiding an Incompatible Assumption ~ m
Virgin" and the lovely "Reposc in Egypt ana
important works by Van Dyck. kemofandi
Rubens. Teniers. Wouyerman and Dutch and
Flemish masters. There are 1000 paintings !n
this luxurious art palace Of Catherine H. and as
many more are in other imperial palaces In s.
PETERSBURG In the Hermitage also is mar
yellous collection Of Greek and Etruscan vases.
with the matchless one found at Cumae repre-
senting the mysteries Of Eleusis; an c%iraordI-
nary display Of antiquities from ScEthla ana
the Crimea. with the silver vase Of Nicopol and
the golden vase o: Kertch; a gallery devoted 10
Peter the Great and remarkable collections OF
relics and Jewels and costumes. The Hermit
age is bew.ldering in - variety and luxurious
splendor 1t is a unique treaEure-house, filled
with priceless paintings diamonds. emera.is
vases and relics OF a rich and powerful court
The Winter Palace, which = now used only
for ceremonial occasions and State receptions.
is one OF the largest and most luxurious royal
residences in the world. hours being required
for a rapid tour Of the rooms. The most splen-
ala rooms are s.. Georges Hall adorned win
Corinthlan columns. magnificent cahdeiahra
and an imperial throne; Nicholas hail. win SIX
teen windows fronting on the river. ne grandest
~ the court bathrooms; the KomanOn gallery
with portraits Of all the sovereigns OF the reign
ing house; the Pompeiian room and rotunda,
with portraits OF the last four clnpcrors, the
portrait galleries OF distinguished generals,
Ffnuress Alexardra's draWlnE-roOm. with g!t
ceiling walls decorated with teSc'es hl'eF
p,nbael and lapis-lazuu candelabra the By
t,fI VII g
bs,,lc rictures. and 'he Ambassadors entrance
hall with a fine fight Of marble sieps leading
70 the state apartments. No other palace in
Europe approaches In magn!Accnce 81 appoint
roentg and luxurious furnishings this superb
/ tor,o % the Rorranoffs. nor is there any other
court where equally sumptuous ban1uets ana
/ halls can be arranged J. bears evidence In
/ ricbness Of decoration ana wealth Of art to the
| stately splc,il1r 0f the Russian court 1"e
| most interesting apartments to tn" casuaI 'I''-
! tor are the library and working rooms u the
great Emperor. Alexander II. to whose memory
a magnificent church j. slowly approaching
completion on the scene Of his assassination.
| Thee are shown IN the condition IN which ne
| left them. and bear ord to the simplicity OF
his taste The private rooms Of another great
| KomanoR Nicholas !. including the one Where
| ne died are also OF exceptional interest.
A CAPITAL WITHOUT DlsTINcTIoN.
St Petersburg IL filed with palaces sumptu-
ousy furnished and Identified with various
| members Of the Imperial family fayOrite
| residences. The Anichkon Palace i, now the
/ home Of the Empress mother and vas the chief
residence Of Alexander III. The Taurda and
| Marble palaces were erected by Catherine IL FOR
! Court fayorites The Michael Palace with It's
| traQic memories OF the Emperor Paul, he. been
converted into School Of Engineers. The
! IeuchtcnberR or Marie Palace. built for a
! daughter Of Nicholas 1. Is used by the Imperial
ministers There are twenty other palaces I'm
| variou. quarters Of the capital. which either
| occupIed by members or the Imperial family
mr. have reverted 10 public use. Most o; these
nelec es are sombre and unimpressive In their ex-
| ,ernal aspect and being brick houses coated with
s,ucco. are without dignity and distinction. ST.
! pctcrsbiirg Is a city OF palaces but there ar,
| s.., sirps OF spiendor In the architecture OF tho
/ c.,ttat II has also scores Of monuments in.
! Guiding the famous equestrian statue ~ fetei
| the Great on a huge block OF granite. the Alex.
ander Column, the monument to Catherine III
the suyororn Monument, the statute OF Mich
| Ola, I and two triumphal arches; but whether
| u 10 h.causc these works are with two or three
executions inferior in artistic value. or because
their effect is lost in the great empty spaces
| where they stand. no traveller carries away
with him the impression that 81. petersburg j.
rich In statuary and sculpture
Autocracy has indeed undertaken hopeless