The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-07-22
ideas for dMoanen.

1t is some years now since the Princess
Of Wales set the seal of her approval
upon a style of yachting gown that Is
still considered the very smartest of all
says Harper's Bazaar" Copied as close
~ as possible from the blouse worn by the
men-os-war, the waist Is modified so as
to be becoming either to stout or slender
figures, and the amount of fulness in the
blouse is regulated accordingly. The
fronts hang in true blouse fashion over
the belt, and sometimes the back is ar
ranged in the same way, but generally
IS pulled down tight under the belt. A
broad naiior collar shaped into revers in
front and open far enough to show a
vest piece with high band is the only
trimming. Often a striped jersey is worn
under the sailor blouse, and then the vest
piece is not necessary.
The sailor collar Is made of different
collars and materials, according to indi-
vidual taste-white or red or light blue
flannel or linen. Sometimes there are
two collars. the inside one is white duck,
and so arranged that II is adjustable,
buttoning inside the serge or flannel col
lar. Underneath the linen collar is the
half-handkerchief of black silk. the ends
of which are knotted In a sailor tie.
49,
The sleeves are of medium size, and
just below the elbow, to the wrist, are
shaped into the arm with very narrow
pleats. Between the shoulder and elbow
is an embroidered anchor or some neu-
teal design and three bars. This is in
blue or red silk or gilt. While there is
apparently no ft TO the blouse, 1t is
shaped in at the side seann so that there
shall not be an ugly square look given TO
the figure, and when made for a stout
woman the side pieces must be carefully
fitted.
The skirt for a smart yachting gown
should have no unnecessary fulness,
must fit closely over the hips, and should
not a over four and a half yards.
Sometimes the skirts are made quite fun
all around. but that is SO rarely becoming
that il cannot be advocated as at all
desirable. The best skirt design has the
front breadth narrow at the waist and
wide at the foot, with gored sides, and
the fulness gathered, not pleated, into
MS small a space at the back as possible.
1t is not necessary to have any decided
fare to the skirt. but neither should
there be any decided flare to the skirt,
but neither should there be any .siinky'
scant appearance. A deep hem with
several rows of machine stitching is the
hest finish. but it Is also considered
fashionable to have a band Of some con-
y asting color to match the sailor collar.
of all the materials used for yachting
costumes serge takes the lead and main
tains It's popularity year after year. of
course there are different weayes each
season. hut the ordinary medium weave
and of the waterproof quality is the
hest. Even when said to be waterproof.
bowever. the serge should be well sponged
before II is made up, as nothing is more
ANNOYING thar to nave a gown defaced
nv a sudden shower or salt spray.
Most of the sailor gowns are lined. but
the blouses are large enough to permit OF
wearing a silk shirt If desired.
white duck costumes are made on pre-
cisely the same lines as the serge, but the
band around the skirt and the sailor col
lar Is Of flannel, dark blue or red, with
rows of narrow white soutachebraid, The
colorcd linens are sometimes used instead
of the flannel for trimmings. but are not
considered SO smart. Linen duck is also
preferred to cotton, for although it is
more expensive, It does not shrink SO
badly: but both cotton n linen must
be shrunk before the gown is made, and 1t
is best to- shrink them in piece. White
leather belts are worn with the sailor
blouse, but a band of flannel with rows
of narrow braid at either edge is smarter
and more in keeping with the exceedingly
nautical appearance deemed necessary.
II has been said many times that the
American dish of dishes is pie, and that
to it we as a people owe many of our
bodily ailments, says the HHousekeeper-"
1t seems to me that much of this is true,
for travel where you will over the country
the dessert is generally pie, warm from
the oven, overlooking with richness, and
suggestive of an i~nordinate amount of
lard. / must admit that I have a tooth
particularly susceptible to pie. If it is well
made, and that to me it means a digesti-
BILE as well a paiatable article-that
is, as digestibie as pastry can be made.
To produce a pie that Is wholesome one
must remember two things. One is that
a pie fresh from the oven Is far more IN
digesttbIe than one "a day old, slightly
warmed, and also that a crust as usually
made, of just lard, -four and water, over
flowing with grease, is about the most I'M
wholesome article in the whole line of
cooked foods.
My solution of the problem was evolved
after some experiment, and as the result
has been pleasing to my home and guests
offer to those OF our sisters who are
making a study of wholesome pastry my
recipe for pie crust:-One pint of flour,
one teaspoon of best baking powder. one
half teaspoon of best butter, a little salt;
stft the flour and baking powder together
in a large earthen dish. With the hands
work the butter into the -four until all is
smooth and fine; then add the salt and
enough ice water TO take up all the bat
tered -four. The dough should be thick
enough so no flour need be added except
enough on the kneading board to form
into a ball and to roll it out. Do not
make a lard and water crust and handle
as little and as quickly as possible. This
will be a sufficient amount for three or
binary pies with upper and under crust;
rich enough to be toothsofne, and light
and feathery enough in substance.
Pies should be baked in a slow oven,
and well and thoroughly cooked. To pre-
vent the overflow of the juicy ones with
fits train of evils to the pie. the over and
the temper OF the cook, I would suggest
the following remedy Before placing in
4hc ovc,, f.nifa fhp 1tunpr ana rpdar or,,~t