The times., 1897-04-25

tlStiC frame OF nluL-JusI as ont NAO
has accustomed his eye TO nothing but
good pictures for a season Acquires a
sense of the beautiful IN nature and art
which he would never attain 10y the CON
temptation of bad cinomos or distorted
drawings.
After ti.,, first qualrns Of envy and oevet-
ousness have been conquered it is easy
to see in tie simple materials within our
reach possibilities Of adoption and Vafl-
alton which would never occur 10 the mind
of one who hasnot studied gowns tlat are
hopelessly beyond reach.
IL is with this stdea ia view that present
YOU with description OF scnic gowns tt'at
are being prepared FOR a May han which
isto take place ina nioStanomalous manner
on the 3Cth OF April This anachronism
is due either to tie fact uiat the directors
wished { o combine the celebration of Easter
tide with that Il Tie merry month. or it
Is an at, empt on their part TO welcome the
list of May AT midnight as ii ii weie tie
first day oi TIE year Be that as IT may.
ii is the gowns with which We aSe CON
oerned
Madame displayed them one 10y one, Sc
that the co!ors could not kill each ouher,
and then nut each carefGlly away in its
own particular box. The first was
flaming red geranium red, a cCloT which
has taken everything by storm tins year.
The material was another favorite. ASK
any fashionable dresSmaker what Is the
most stylish material for evening wear and
she will answer unhesitatjngly. point d'es-
r,rit net IL is really sort OF Brussels net
with dot in il, and. being much stoUteT
than either tulle or mOuSselinc and quite
as pretty, 1t easily replaces both with
those who can afford 10 pay for it. This
FED net was pleated in sun pleats' 10
form the skirt and hing over a gernnuIn
red taffeta lining. The bodice was gath
cred fuII around the low corsage andeGgcd
with tiny ostrich tips. There was sllght
mfr at the top OF the arm. and below the
long directoire sleeve Of the net. The di-
reetoire sleeve, 10y the way, Is d new lad,
which is growing very popular for evening
dresses OF The most elaborate type.
This same sleeve appeared again IN an
exquisite violet gown. The violet dress was
part of a complete violet costume, which
was the most unique and original in the
whole collection. The material was NOUS
seine de saie with just the right stiffness
for sun pIeats. The .pleated skirt was, or
c0urse, made over q talfeta lining. Tire
waist was gathered full and cut quite low
in the neck and all around the edge were
tiny ostrich tips Of slightly darker Tint
Down the center Of the bodice, from the
neck TO the waist. was a strip OF pearl trim
ming laid on violet ribbon. \ Jacket ef-
feet is also formed by the pearl trimming.
The sleeves were the most effecJlYe IA
ture Of the costume. At the top was a but
terfly trimming OF knife pleatnG that stood
up like butterfly wings all around the ahoul-
der There was soft knot in the center,
like the body between the two wings. and
below was the direCtoire sleeve. With this
costume the happy poSsessor has planned TO
wear violet gloves and shoes 10 match the
tips. and to carry a violet fan which VIII
he suspended from the waist by a tiny gold
chain.
The spectators gave little gasp When
Madame Krelle announced that the next
gown would be a combination OF PINK
and mahogany. It certainly sounded odd
for an evening dress. but when we saw
it the gasps were those Of admiration
as well as establishment The lining was
mahogany t3ffeta and over this the pink
point d desplit was laid in sun pleats like
the others Tie net was fashioned into
a surDlice both back and front. The ta1feta
lining was cut very low, and the soft folds
of the net made an exquisite draping for
the corsagc Down one edge OF the sur
plice wefe set tiny pink rOsebuds, and
from the waist there dangled chain OF
roSebuds which madame explained was
intended TO carry the fan
II suppose She VIII wear pink gloves
and slippers with this?" ventured some
sne.
..Oh. no: mahogany by all means said
the scandallzed modiste.
She then showed us Two more gowns,
and the exhibition was over. One was
a pale tlue striped chiffon with small
dot in It. The skirt was not pleated and
was edged with three rows of white
valencleRnes lace. The edge Of the bodice
was trimneI with pink roses and vioietS-
p striking combination, hut just the right
tints to harmonic perfectly.
A yellow Chiffon was made with high
neck and long sleeves, but the taffeta
liuirg was cut low underneath the chiffon
and there was no lining in the sleeves.
Following the line Of the low corsage, but
set ON top OF the net was border OF pink
aud pearl trimming. The net was gath
cred at the neck into n small satin collar,
and the effect was exceedingly pretty.
"That is exactly the way III fix my
black silk waist" excl aimed a young
gill, who. by the way, has been fixing that
same black waist in different styles for
the last four years. The silk is growing
a little shabby and worn,'' she admitted
ruefullv, land | was afraid 1 would have
to give It up But now III get some cheap
black net and gather right over it into q
stock collar, and the neck is elready cut
square underneath. 1t VIII be a pretty
waist FOR summer afternoons or to wear to
church on hot sundays"
This idea also suggests a method Cf
Transforming the orEandy evening dress
into an afternoon gown. little tulle
or net may be used for the over bodice.
Bot since the advent Of the thin directoirc
sleeve il is easy to insert a chiffon or
tnousseline yoke and directoire sleeves
IN some harmonious or contrasting tint.
Every indication points TO the fact tha'
piain skirts are going out Of fashion. AT
every exhibition of Paris costumes trim
med skirts arcin the vast majority, and the
most elaborate trimrnin = 1t that. No French
dressmaker pretendS TO put ruffle straight
around the bottom Of the skirt, though that
is quite the correct thing with US. All the
fiounces &c Engaging around as If they
had been Jared out OF place by the ocean
voyage Of which they bear unnliStakable
marks.
The newest thing in shoes is green alliga
tor skin. One young woman who saw them
.,rx n