Evening star., 1897-06-10

crous. He Is tine u,s rSs right t-hand man and
favorite. He was stnply dressed in q gen.
erals uniform, one decoration and fez.
The Dogs Of stamboul.
Last night the doss baYked and howled
to such an extent that sleeping seemed out
OF the question. The subject of dogs is a
pertinent one in speaking Of Stamboul.
Inere are thousands of Wongrel ours that
live upon the streets Of this city. They
belong to no one buta themselves, and form
as much part of the population as the
citizens themselves. iGn bands and cliques
tney occupy the whole place, each band
having certain street or alley in which
they live and beyond which they dare not
pass; 10 cross the slime generally means
the clique inhabiting the next few squares.
nney are born. live and die In the street.
lhey are the scavengers of the city and are
apparently beloved by. the people. 1t Is
the streets of the nuisance had all the dogs
shipped TO the Asiatic shore, but the natives
revoIted and demanded their return. They
s,een al gay in the middle of the streets,
oa tue SIDEWALKS, in the cutters, every
Wnere. Pedestrians and drivers pass to one
sioe and generally treat them with respect,
II not kindly: They fight and quarrel
able = themselves but they are very ami
cnque stand by each other Loyalty and
pitch upon horse or carriage that hap
pens 70 wound one Of its band. At night
they bark and snarl, making an Internal
din.
About daylight this morning IN army Of
street venders began crying their wares,
reminding one of the noises of Chinese
city.
The morning spent in writing while the
party went mosque hunting with the
dragomen. In the afternoon the general
and the captain proceeded to the house of
the minister OF war, and Dawson and l
look the dragomen for taunt up the
Bosphorus.. We visited a part of Constan
tinople across the water on the Asiatic side.
The Howling Dcrvishes.
1t being the afternoon when unbelievers
are admitted to the Mosque of the Howl
ing Dervishes." to witness their ceremony,
we took 1t in. The priests howl in a man.
ner quite extraordinary. The priests work
themselves into a frenzy of excitement,
swaying the body violently to and fro, and
singing, or rather bowling, in unison. La
ilak lila ilak," their profession Of faith.
This begins slowly in measured time, while
some priests chant a lesson from the
Koran. The music and swaying of the
body proceed in crescendo until finally they
become riot of noise and contortion. The
Idea Is to show devotion to the extent of
extreme physical exhaustion. 1t continues
about two hours and shows remarkable
powers of endurance
The nights in Constantinople are quiet
for the traveller as we'll as the diplomatic
residents. There are no theatcrs worth at
tending, no amusements besides the social
intercourse between the families of the
representatives of foreign POWERS There
are no social relations between the for
eigners and the Turks-or If so women
play no part. This must be unsatisfactory.
Without the presence of Il hostess social
function loses much of is charm. You
know well enough the lives of the Turkish
women. Their religion forces obligations
upon them that crush every human ir.-
mud n1Ia - Il l..
a strange barbarism to witness at this
period Of advancs csm.nt in the worlds civili-
Zation.
At the German Embassy.
Left cards at the British embassy (S;r
Philip Currie) and called upon Baron Won
Saurma at the German embassy The
German embassy Is a Yeritable palace
Gorgeous f1unkeys removed my coat, took
my hat and umbrella and led me through
marble halls and drawing rooms of great
splendor. The young baroness Carmen
Won Saurma received me with the greatest
cordiality and Was impatient to hear all
about Neutrality-suspicious. French Breakfast
Club the RaQuette Lake Camp, etc. etc.
She took me over the house, showing me
the wonders and the Incompatible views Of
the Bosphorus and Scutari from the win
dows. Suddenely the baron ran in, saying
My Dear Mr.. H.. we are having a con-
ference. but your card was brought in. and
could not wait to tell you how delighted
am to see you. You must breakfast with
US tomorrow, and then join us on the
rus to Therapia. Promise me you will
come-now l must rum and he was gone.
Ny call was most delightful one.
The invitation from the German embassy
was extended to the general and to Mr..
Terrell; accordingly we proceeded to the
breakfast at 12:3O, being the only guests
esides the family and secre.artal outfit.
After the repast we wandered about the
o1of ffp1 An
room. state dining room. etc, etc. and
greatly enjoying the view from the piazza
looking out over the BosphOrus and the
sst of Marmora, to the Asiatc shore. and
peak of Mount olympus. In the foreground
Pera, Galata. Stamboul. 1t Is a view worth
coming 5000 miles to see. The sky was
cloudless-a deep blue; the air like crystal,
cool and delightful.
With number of crevass Officers ap-
pointed by the government to accompany
and look after official foreigners. and gaily
uniformed) we drove to the landing at the
Galata bridge-boar1ed the yacht and
steamed away for Therapia- On board
were General Won Goltz, the German gen.
eral who has been planning the Turkish
campaign in Thesssaly "a nephew of Won
Moltke), other distinguished military men
and many ladies'.
The Summer Resort of Therapia.
The residence of the German embassy in
coo marks &75O,OOW. Their summer resi-
dence at Therepia is also a marvel Of beau
ty-a delightful park surrounding the
buildings, which are upon the waters edge
Bosphorus), some thirty or forty acres of
woodland and landscape. all surrounded,
except upon the water side. by a great
wall, nearly hidden with ivy. The dense
vegetation Is kept well in hand by many
gardeners. 1t Is charming beyond words!
All the several diplomatic corps except
our own. have here similar places, where
in summer they live In a veritable paradise,
entertaining themselves and friends who
happen along. All have steam yachts.
1 have never seen SO tempting a place to
spend summer-perfect climate, gorgeous
scenery. the best society Europe can fur
nish, delightful houses for rent at a small
cost. good fishing, etc. 1t was a fete day
for the Germans. and all of the nationality
in town had assembled to do honor to the
vaterland in athletic games, songs, dance
and beer. Our crowd from the yacht was
received in great style. The baroness was
crowned queen and made a graceful little
speech. Then we danced upon the green"
to the tune Of "In Lauterbach Habe tch
Mein Strumph Verloren." We were photo