davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
ashiorls Of
NeuJ Y ofk.

Special Correspondence Of the Globe.
NEW YORK, April, 49, Some Of the
prettiest effects Of last seasan were OBJ
tanned by the liberal use Of gathered
black silk null fuffleE and the liking
for them has extended beyond that
one season. The capes. many Of the
gowns and collarettes flihave them. and
they are pretty. To be entirely fash
ionable they should be cut on the
straight and roll hemmed and the up
per edge folded down and gathered
with long stitches I'M Spanish style.
That gives the round, irregular fold
which distinguishes this kind Of ruff
fe. In some cases it is not hemmed.
hand sewed. and one row Of narrow
satin ribbon Is run on just above the
binding.
For trimming cape 1t is sewed
down the openings in front and all
around the lower edge, while around
the neck is triple row, forming a
very full ruff. This black silk null
ruff1ing is also used as trimming upon
waists Of all kinds, except print. and
upon some silk shirt waists It is
put around the bottom of grenadine
and black net skirts, and it is in order
for all the lighter silks in the way of
jabots and ruff1es. Full double and
triple ruff1es are also often seen upon
the finer qualities Of black chip hats.
In fact, it may be worn in so many
ways that 1t is scarcely worth while
to mention them all, though I must
not forget parasols, which are beruff1ed
and pulled to an incredible extent.
Silk null is not so pretty as chiffon or
so light and delicate, but it is trans
parent enough. and it is inclined to
set out rather siff1y when gathered
crosswise of the goods, and dampness
and 1isse fall Imply.
To show how handsome an adjunct
it is / shall have to describe a cos
tune whose chief distinction consist
ed in the silk null ruff1ing. The dress
was Of rich black. armure silk, with
three rows OF black satin ribbon
around the bottom. the ribbon being
Of graduated widths and sewed on fiat.
There was shirt waist Of light gray,
green and pink clan plaid silk. Over
this was a plain military cape Of the
black armufe, with three rows of fiat
ribbon like that on the skirt. Around
the edge of the cape was gathered
ruff1e like that described above. It
was very elegant costume. A black
parasol to match this suit had one
very full and deep ruf1e, with the satin
ribbon trimming.
Many of the new parasols have puff
fings of thin stuffs on the inside, while
the outside is left smooth and plain.
The parasols deserve special mention,
as anything in that line so deserving
of it I have never before seen. Some,
as I said, are puffed underneath and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

Although fashion has definitely de-
clared itself in the most surprising color
harmonies and elaborate details quite
beyond description, the secret OF dis
tinction in dress at this mid-season,
when summer novelties and fur-trim-
med winter costumes jostle each ether
in the street, is found in the tailor
made gown. 1t certainly comprises all
the much desired qualities of approprl-
ate attire; and while a certain severity
of style is always demanded in this
kind of dress, the craze Tor decoration
has wrought a transformation in the
tailor gowns this season, which does
away with any extreme plalnneSs.
Braiding embroidery, silk ana satin
folds. velvet ribbon, panels of silk and
lace. all have an inning ut the tallor's,
and tucks figure largely III the fashion,
ing of cloth gowns as we'll as in thin
muslin dresses.
Cheviots serges, tweeds, melton, We
netian, and smooth-faced cloths are the
popular materials for this style Ct gcWn,
but canvas and other thin wool ma
terials, with a very loose and open
weave. are also made up by the tailors.
= In dark blue, brown, fawn and black
they make very cool, light travelling
dresses, and the Scotch cheviots mixed
with three or four colors are especially
desirable for this simple gown. VeDe-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
FEET AND CHARACTER.
What the Pedal Extremtties Reveal
to One Who Knows.

The person who had his character read by
the palmist must now go to the first cousin
Of the chiropodist in order to learn whether
the markings on the foot agree with the
representations of the hand.
According to the adopts, small instep de-
notes religious temperament, while. II 1t is
arched, 1t indicates love of luxury, while,
If 1t is thin in addition, it not only demon
strates the desire for appreciation and ap-
plause but the possession Of honor and and lofty
bootmaker would describe as rather high,
is the mark of the individual who is capable
Of great exertion continued over a long time,
the instep. in fact, of the worker
i The heel Is another OF the. great diagnostic
points. If it is smooth and round. and with
out any prominent outlines, it declares the
der. which never achieves distinction. and
who. though pleasant enough in his or her
way to live with, is yet devoid of any special
talent. If it is small, it shows that the
owner Is capable Of going heart and soul into
any work that he undertakes.
Long toes suggest artistic capacity, just
as do long fingers OF certain shape, while
short toes indicate selfshness. II they are
crooked well as long, they demonstrate the
possession of good common sense and no
little business capacity, while toes separated
by distinct interval. in spite Of the COM
preston in which fashionable boots compel
them, are Indicative Of emotion. II they
curve downwards, they indicate an amiable
turn OF mind. and different portions Of them
denote different characteristics as do the So
called mountains and valleys" on the
palm.
In addition to all these characteristics. the
markings on the sole must be carefully con-
sidered for they may modify certain other
peculiarities. 1t Is impossible. however. to
lay down any laws for self-guidance in these
minutiae, but the broad facts will no doubt
furnish sufficient stimulus for further in
yestigation at the hands of the wise women
Of the world. for they must be indeed wise
who can read, as in an open book. character
which may be formed by the constructions
Of q fashionable boot.
Whatever else may be DONE however, it is
safe to say that great toes which are pressed
out of the straight line. and which are there
fore in hideous contrast with the beautiful
feet Of Trilby, bespeak an egregious vanity
in their possessor, and proclaim belief In
the proverb. which states that ito be beauti-
full one must suffer-" This however, was
the old-fashioned idea, which 1t is hoped the
vogue of Mr.. Du Mauriers heroine will have
done great deal to counterfeit.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

others have a silk Or surah outside,
with q dozen little rufHes of some light
material beneath, always Of differ
ent color, black being the favorite An
other novelty is pink silk figured
with moss rose buds. The handle was
long and slender with mother Of pearl
end A fancy pink bow was tied on 1T
near the end. There was a pale blue
parasol, lined with white chiffon rufffes,
though none showed, save when 1t was
opened. Around the edge of the para
sol was a wreath OF hazy blossoms and
leaves exquisitely painted and by hand.
The end was of one piece of coral, while
the handle was enameled pale blue.
A rosette bow was put on the handle.
One parasol was very curiously made,
vet effective when open or closed. The
foundation was of dark red silk.
Over this was netted mesh of black
chenille, interpersed with white che
nille. The netted mesh Joined the white
zigzags with an amber bead at each
point. At the edge there was deep
fringe made of white silk braid over a
soft ruffle of white chiffon. While the
parasol was closed the netted cover
looked pretty, but it's full beauty did
not become apparent until 1T was
opened There was q double puff of
the red silk at the top and bow OF
req ana White IlUUOA OF CAAS OOSSOAAA'
The end Of the handle was of ivory.
The rich pompadour silks have been
utilized in many other parasols, being
arranged SO that the strips go around.
Fancy chased or inlafd handles and
ribbon bows to match finish them. Plaid
silk also is seen, and few Of moirs,
The handles are Very finely wrought,
some Of them being almost grotesque.
One was like ducks head. The plain
black parasols and umbrellas are made
to roll very tightly, and their handles
resemble those Of canes,
A very handsome gown was shown In
one place, and, as it was both braided
and tailor finished. / Will describe 1t.
The material was light drab covert
cloth, in rather lighter weight than
is usual, but still firm enough to bear
the severe strain put upon it in the
tailor finish. Down each front seam
was very close bratdfng in brown
soutache, ending in quite an elaborate
pattern at the foot. There was snug
vest Of the same and white chemt-
settle front with a wide rundown col
lar and black satin four-in-hand. Over
these was q short Jacket reaching but
one inch below the waist line. This
had fiat black velvet coat collar and
lapels of the covert cloth. The Jacket
opened on the left side and was daint-
lily braided with brown soutache. There
was flare at the bottom that was
scarcely perceptfble. but yet 1t was
enough to change the style OF the gar
mesit from an Elton to q hussar. By
the way, h,,ssar and other military
and semi-military coata bdsques, capes
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
LITTLE CApEs.
They Are Not for Protection, bu

They Are Not for Protection, but
Are Deemed Very Cute.
Little capes of all kinds will be the order
of the day, but these fascinating little gar
ments are not intended for protection; they
are merely decorative. April is treacherous
month The sun shines brightly and 1t gives
forth heat, but there is dampness in the air,
and colds are contracted almost without
knowledge. Consequently the wise woman will
not remove her winter jacket simply because
it is Easter. If the coat is not worn an extra
flannel or silk undervest should be placed
under the dress waist Collar handsssand
their decoration play an important spaft in
the finish Of frocks, and everything fkpm
ribbon collar and bow to an elaborate fchu
can be found ready made in the shops. In
fact, entire fronts of waists with collars are
made so that they can be adjusted to any cos
tune. They are made Of muslin, silk and
linen batiste, lace and Ribbon and Of silk and
lace. Little frills are composed Of chiffon,
net and lace. all plated into band ready
to haste inside the collar. A short ruche,
wider q tbs hssA than q the sides appears
used on the backs of collars, with the lace
ruche falling between. An effective neck
trimming is composed of a white satin choker;
points Of lace stand up and meet the ears,
and at each side Of The CHECKER are black vel
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

tan cloth IN neutral tfnts, striped With
fine lines of color. and shepherds p}aids
are both on the list Of fashionable
cloths. Basket woven cloths III checks
of two colors are very pretty for tie
dressy tailor gowns which are so very
popular this season. The coat and skirt
is till the prevailing mode OF cut, but
the Jackets are very short, in the Elton
style, or with a very short basque min
US the flutes in the back, which were so
fashionable last season. They are tight
fitting in the back, either loose or close
in the front, and the Jacket, which Is
used for an outside garment over the
shirt waist, has a loose fly front. For
those who prefer the extremely plain
and decidedly masculine style of cos
tune there are close, tight-dtting coats
and round, tight waists, turned back
with a collar and small reverS to form
a small at the neck, showing a high
standing linen collar and eour-fn-hand
tie. There are great possibilities in the
revers. for they can be square, round,
or pointed, long or short. The latest Of
all are the long revers pointing Gown
to the waist line. The revers, too, are
the point OF QecOrdllCH Oh THESE EldfI
costumes, and they are often covered
with some contrasting color and elab-
orately braided in scroll patterns Or
striped across in military style. Moire
silk in black, white and rolors is en-
ployed on tailor gowns for covering the
collars, revers and cuffs, and for a.
band three inches wide around the bot
tom of the skirt, with possibly small
pattern of narrow braiding On the up
p per edge.
Every possible variation of the Eton-
shaped coat is in order this season,
but the newest cut points down a lit
tie below the belt on either side of
the front, which opens enough to dis
play the vest or blouse inside. One
cloth costume of this kind can be var
led a great deal by having a variety
of vests to wear with it. White, col
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
AMERICAS FIRST WOMAN SOLDIER
Deborah Sampson Fought Side by
Side With Men in the Revolution

Deborah Sampson Fought Side by
Side With Men in the Revolution
airy War.
Deborah Sampson, known to fame as
the only woman who served in the
Revolutionary army always has been
an attractive figure in the history of
that period, says the Boston Evening
Transcript. 1t is interesting to read
of that brave character, but much more
SO to hear an account of her life from
the lips of one of her direct descen-
dants, which was the pleasure given to
a company in Memorial hall, Charles
town, yesterday afternoon. 1t was the
regular meeting Of Bunker Hill Chap
ter, Daughters of the American Revo-
luton, at which the regent, Miss M.
II. Brazier, presided.
Mrs Susie A. Jackson, of Boston, was
the speaker, and she related facts COM
piled from Deborah SIMPSONS own
statements to one Of her kin and the
records of the United States pension
office, all Of which are Enthusiastically
authentic. Deborah was the twelfth OF
family Of thirteen children and was
directly descended from Gov. William
Bradford. She was born on Dec. II,
1760 She had no early advantages, but
by study was able to teach school In
Middleboro. She went to the house Of
Mr. Leonard there and possessed her
self Of clothing and prepared to enlist
with privateer, but abandoned her
design on learning Of the captains
cruelty. At Bellingham she enlisted as
Continental soldier from the town of
Uxbridge under the name1aef Robert
Shirtliffe. Near the end. of April, 1871,
she was mustered into service in Wor-
cester, and marched with other recruits
to West Point.
She was placed in Capt. Webb's COM
pany of light infantry, Col. Shepard
regiment and Gen. Patterson,s brigade.
During the engagements that followed
she suffered less from fear than from
fatigue. She shared in all the hard
ships as well as the glories Of York
town, Iabored in the trenches, and, in
fact, her military career was full Of
adventures, but she bore herself with
firmness, resolution, and patient en-
durance, which are often thought to
belong exclusively to the stronger SEX
Mrs. Jackson described the several
wounds the brave woman received. and
spoke of the testimonials given her for
faithful duty and exemplary conduct
from her leaders. On returning home,
her sex having been discovered, she
resumed the customary apparel Of her
sex. She died in Sharon on April q,
1927, aged 81 years. ut may truly be
said that no parallel to Deborah Samp-
son Is to be found in the annals of any
nation" said Mrs. Jackson in closing.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

cloth bolero embroidered all over with
narrow silk braid a high braided col
lar cut in battlement- squares, and a
jabot of fine creamy lace falling over
the vest. The skirt and sleeves are
braided, and frills of lace fall over the
hands. Wide collars and revers Of
white satin, covered with lace, and vel
vet belts, embroidered with gold, are
seen on the cloth gowns. There are
several different styles of collars for
the tailor coats. One is a sort of Medici,
cut out Isin squares on the edge and
trimmed around with braid. A close
fitting Zouaye cut inasquares or slant
ing points on the front edges, is a
very popular style for cloth, and some
of these little jackets have wide revers
heavily braided.
Among the very dressy tailor gowns
Is one of heliotrope cloth, shown in the
illustration. The cuirass bodice Of
white cloth is deliberately braided with
black and gold. The frill at one side
is Of black killed chiffon. and the
vest, collar, and belt are of turquoise
blue velvet. The shirt and sleeves are
handsomely trimmed with braid. This
style of bodice is decidedly new. An
other very new model has the yoke
skirt with plated panels Of white silk
set in either side Of the front. The
material is drab Venetian cloth. and
the binding matches it in color. The
bolero effect Is carried out in white
silk. A simple gown in dark blue soft
serge shows cravat and vest Of
stamped Roman satin. The bodice is
tucked on either side of the vest in
two groups and again on the sleeves.
and the skirt is laid in tucks around
the hips. Three bands OF braid edged
with gold cord and fastened with gold
buttons fornnsthe belt. Another gown Of
covert cloth shows new skirt trim
ming Of braid pointing down to the
center of the front much higher in the
back, and either edge of this band is
outlined with narrow black velvet rib
bon with q trefoil design at the cor
riers. The street jacket swings out
from the figure little, is trimmed
with braid, and a frill OF Maltese lace
eonceals the opening. Turquoise blue
velvet forms the belt and collar. The
plated boiero jacket Is very becoming
to- slight figures. and epaulette frius
of cloth are q pretty addition with
braiding on the edge to match the
Jacket. t..-s4
A dressy coat bodice Of petunia cloth
worn with plain skirt has braided
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
Black Silk Null
Rufaes Continue in
Popularity.

and Jackets are all fashionable. The
most OF them have little ornament.
but others are loaded with gold braid
and pendent frogs and other gilt con-
trivances. They look well on some
people, but not on all. The heavy
soutache in set figures all made up
ready to apply looks better and is suit
able for any wooden dress, while the
gold Is not.
saw such pretty frock for a
young lady today. 1t was Of cream
colored challie with delicate figuring,
representing punches of pinkish lilacs.
The skirt was gathered at the waist
and hung straight to the bottom with
out cores. At the bottom were two mar
row bias ruffles of the same, simply
hemmed. The waist was laid in a
surplice. leaving v shape at the
neck. It belted in with pale pur-
pie velvet belt, with a gold buckle. It
was very girlish and pretty,if trifle
old fashioned. These old fashions are
new ones now.
A gown Of black grosgrain was laid
in three-inch bias folds the whole
length Of the skirt. These might be
taken for narrow flounces. but are sim
ply folds. They are decidedly ugly, but
also very novel. The waist was gather
ed in French fashion in the back. one
side Of the front was laid in folds to the
belt from the shoulder. The other SIDE
had six bias folds, like those In the
skirt. The tight sleeves had high puffed
caps. The waist and sleeves We're OF
black MORE.
Though printed. striped, plaid and
brocaded silks are all among the fash
icnable ones there are still many hand
some new gowns made of plain and
figured black grosgrain, armure, peau
de sole and MORE, and there are many
I ,1xi. L.,
quality Of black grosgrain called cache
mire This is soft and exceedingly
lustrous and believe will wear well.
Black MORE velour is also very popu-
lar for skirts to wear with fancy waists.
Foulards are unusually pretty One
pattern 1 saw was a rich chestnut
brown with clusters of green dots.
Plain surahs are much liked for shirt
waists and, generally speaking. they
are prettier for that purpose than the
figured sorts.
The Mexican linens, the hammock
nets, the Egyptian cottons and the
Examines, as well as the corded gaines
and iridescent tinsel cloths, are all
among the seasons novelties and are
very we'll liked. Among the woods the
nuns serge, surah serge. jacquard
weaves, Lizards, brilliant broche mo-
hairs, all wool checks, cheviots tweeds
and coverts appear to be most in de-
mand. The fine cloths are always de-
manded by those able to afford them.
The lacelike grenadines in wooden
threads are very good value, as they
are strong. They are shown in all the
bright colors of this season. Grena-
dimes of all kinds and mixtures con-
tinue in high favor, though no one has
worn one yet They are for summer,
but as summer is close at hand we shall
soon see the pretty gowns made Of
grenadine.
I saw a pinafore gown today the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THREE PALATABLE DISHES.
Housewife in Search of Novelty Will
BE Pleased With These.

caunaower. with white sauce is a dish At
to set before king. To prepare it take on
all outside leaves; wash thoroughly. Put In
bag and boil gently half an hour in sailed
water. Pour over melted butter with a
spoonful Of cream, or make this white sauce:
Cook together one ounce Of flour and two
ounces Of butter. add one pint Of sweet
cream or milk simmer five minutes. Season
to taste with salt and pepper.
The joyous days of watermelon will SOU Do
here. When plain watermelon tires, try q
watermelon ice. Make 1t as follows: Cut q
watermelon in halves. scoop out the entire
center, taking out the seeds. Chop In tray;
add cup of sugar. Pack the freezer, turn g
few minutes. It will be like soft snow and
delicious.
Fig pudding is a dish not to be despised.
There are several ways Of making 1t, but
this one is about the best: Mince very fine q
half pound Of suet and the same quantity Of
figs; then mix with them half pound OF
finely grated breadcrumbs, with little cas-
ter sugar and enough golden syrup to make a
nice paste. Butter a mold, fill 1t with the
mixture and boil or steam it for one and a
half hours. Turn it out and serve eiether
plain or with whipped cream Or treacle sauce.
The latter is made by flavoring little white
sauce with some lemon rind and spoonful
of golden syrup.