The record-union., 1897-06-27

gowned in dark blue were, TO the
writer's taste, the most becomlngly
and handsomely attired Some of the
dresses were silk-lined throughout, with
a contrasting color, but the most re-
fined had a dark-blue taffeta lining.
One beautiful blonde matron with
brown eyes wore a braided costume OF
blue ladies' cloth, and with the open
jacket she wore a soft loose vest OF
cream white India silk draped with
cream net, and a narrow belt of solid
silver, with an embossed silver buckle.
She carried a blue silk sunshade and
wore a white sailor hat, banded with
blue ribbon, blue dotted veil of very
fine mesh, and her slender hands were
encased in white Suede gloves.
Hats in variation of cornf1ower blue,
running to white, are newer than the
red ones. Bachelors buttons usually
are the flowers, and the blossoms often
cover the brim completely. Green hats,
petunia-c -colored ones, and all the gay
twillings have black or white touches
of color Hats for half-dress use con-
tinue to be broad -brimmed, rather
high-crowned, and turned up at the
back. For special use toques IN tan
shape, with edges turned here and
there, are jaunty One in petunia color
has three high feathers and para
disc aigrettes at the left side. A jew
eled buckle and swirl of shaded petunia
chiffon under the brim finish it.
Surplice effects or crossed bodices con-
tinue to appear on both day gowns and
evening toilets sent from over the sea.
On the shoulders some of the bOdices
have the fullness shirred with fine silk
threads; again it is tucked in yoke form
with handsome lace insertion between,
and again it is gathered on fine cords,
the fullness below the cordings carried
in a graceful sweep to the belt on the
left side. ending in long slender lace
edged scarfs that are lightly knotted.
The majority of the smart summer
gowns of diaphanous material have the
skirts trimmed variously with lace
edged ruff1es, tiny 'frills overlapping
each other from belt to hem, accordion
pleated f1ounces of graduated width, set
upon closely gored foundation skirts.
Spanish f1ounces Of various depths, Van
Dyke points and fan pleatings set into
the cores on the front and sides, pan
els of various widths alternating with
five or seven fiat killings; skirts with
first a. fiuted frill about five inches wide
set at the hem, then five narrow tucks,
then a second frill, then the tucks, and
so on until three-quarters of the skirt
is thusstrimmed The rest is plain, and
above this is arranged a rounded apron
overskirt with sash ends at the back.
II
The fashion of using dress Innings and
silk slips. often handsomer than the
fabric lined suffers not the least di-
minution. On the contrary, the vogue
of elegant finishings was never greater
than now-no doubt for the reason that
never were silks of every description
sold at such remarkably low prices as
at the present.
Loosely arranged Louis Quinze sashes
are charming with muslin gowns, and
when so put on the soft pliable SILK
STYLES are chosen instead of those of
crisper weave. These lightly folded
sashes are, of course, to be worn only
by very slender youthful girls, and are
now almost a necessity for complete
toilet of accordion-p -pleated muslin or a
gown made with plain untrimmed
skirt. If only the collar and bows to
are we'll selected and styl-
ishly made up by a master hand-not
an amateur-this little display of taste
and elegance will convert a simple
dress into one fit for almost any occa-
sion of the vacation season. Large
quantities of new and beautiful drapery
nets are USED, not alone fer making
fancy waists, cOllarettes, and fichus,
but also for entire gowns Dainty and
tempting creations in silk. chiffon, and
fancy net are now exhibited. In some
instances the full waisr is made of silk
covered with pleatings or soft folds of
chiffon. while in others the employ
ment of these materials is reversed. All
styles of f-ncy laces with insertions to
match in Plauen or St.-Gall made
goods. are used to decorate sheer sum-
mer textiles-India and tafeta silks,
Examines, and other f. shionable mater
ials. In blgsck laces. among hand
some Calais products. popular tendency
is towards the delicate Chantilly de-
Signs. E-nSIlSI anu OSd u
tiful limitations of V;ennese point.
AT the last drawing of the
Queen, there was q noticeable liking
shown for the very beautiful combina-
tion of mignnnerte green and the soft
violet shadin;ss of heliotrope There
are extremely lovely tintings this sea-
son in an the ma I'VE. dahlia. violet and
wistaria 1yes, and likewise most ex
quisite tins of green among the sum-
mer dress textiles; and pink is again
combined with both pale
Nile. myrtle. and golden shades of this
color. 1t is i question yet to be solved
how these delica4e tintings among dain-
ty wash materials VIII resist the de-
predations of the American Jaundress
at the various summer resorts. But
there is no doubt that the shades are
all particularly restful to the eye in
and as charming as they
are restful.
Nearly every stylish costume or dress
toilet has a girSle. either very deep or
very narrow, and in some one or other
i'm