The Stark County Democrat. [volume] (Canton, Ohio) 1833-1912, 1897-06-10

any dark trimming will go with this col
or. Some mOdistes apply white or cream
lace, but where this is done 1t must be Of
the richest kind, as light lace would
cheaper the whole. The less trimming
put upon such gown the better.
Mrs. Frank Leslie has had q gown made
in Paris of just such shade Of claret cloth
and as her taste and judgment in matters
of dress are beyond compare / think any
woman would be safe in following them.
The front breadth had on each side at
the seam o thick cord covered with velours
of prune black and white in deep ridges.
The sleeves were made of this, as was
the bias folded belt which fastened in
front with q very handsome copper and
platinum buckle. The back was cut in
one piece. The front was of the velOurs,
laid in bias folds from the neck TO the
belt and on this was sewed q small but
elegant ornament of jet. The rest of the
waist was of the cloth, with reyers starting
from the belt. These were Of doubled
CLOTH with a row Of the covered cord All
around the bottom were two cords, one a
width below the other and both set below
the edge. The whole dress was lined with
black surah and there were ruffles Of
black pinked taffeta set upon each other
until the whole was fiuffed out into de-
licious fullness, which held out the bottom
of the dress in a soft and graceful manner
far more pleasing than the stiffly faced
dresses so often seen.
Ruffies and narrow plaitings, 1ounces
and folds run a close race for popularity
this season. Some gowns are founced
from top to bottom. Some have the
dounces arranged to look like triple or
quadrupled skirts. Some have clusters of
narrow ones and one wide one. There are
Spanish founces and graduated ones, and,
in fact, every conceivable kind. Perhaps
the prettiest of them are the French
rufiles. These are cut bias and have the
rolled hem, which Is like round binding
and which Is known as the French hem.
The upper part of the ruffle is turned In
and gathered. Where these are used there
are generally several, one tapping over the
other and the top one being gathered In
Spanish style. The accordion plated
ruffles and entire skirts are very popular
and very pretty. There Is a new way Of
arranging these called "sun plating" "
The top is arranged so that the plaits lie
very deep on the underside, and they are
brought in very closely at the top, and at
the bottom they spread out widely. The
material is cut on the straight, and the
spreading effect is obtained by having the
top Of the skirt overlaid so closely. This
is very pleasing when done in light silks,
in plain silk muslin, in Russian net, in
plain grenadine and in the mohair fabrics.
These lend themselves to this kind OF plait.
ing very we'll, and, better, the plalts keep
their place unless the garment gets a
regular soaking.
There are a few superb new designs IN
foh brocaded silk where the pattern covers
half the breadth. The patterns In all
these silks are very large and generally OF
q design at once bold and striking. Large
palm leaves show in shaded light and dark
greens over "A lilac ground. There are
other designs Of tules with broken leaves
Of dark green and their brown "oattails'
over a gray surface or watery blue Iris
and in one case great hollyhook pattern
formed other designs One magnificent
gown for very dressy visiting and carriage
had a swamp flag pattern on delicate
tan ground, the leaves being In russei
green and brown. The skirt hung In
massive curves unirimmed. The waist
and sleeves were Of the same superb ma
terial SILK muslin doubled rufiies wert