The record-union., 1897-08-22


etamine in one of the new lavender
blue shades, trimmed with insertions
of black lace laid over white satin.
Black pleated silk muslin over white
forms the frill down the side where the
bodice poems The belt and collar are
of pink silk, and the epaulets are OF
the etamine lace insertion and silk
muslin frills The chief point to be
considered in this odd style of dress
is to make the gown dressy and Str1k-
ing enough to fulfill the present re-
quirements of fashion, and yet have it
suited for various and widely different
occasions. This is usually the most
difficult thing to accomplish in dress.
The dominant note of Partisan fash
ion is the lavish use Of transparent
textiles of every color, weave and de-
sign.
The favor which the new double
faced French cashmere textiles receiv-
ed last spring will be greatly increased
the coming season. This fabric, like
all soft woods, lends itself most admi-
rably to the making Of gowns as they
are now fashioned. Cashmere looks
best in natural colors, and pale fawn,
tan, and all the varied tints in gray
are considered the most elegant and
artistic A stylish French model Of
French cashmere in soft fawn color
is combined with lustrous fawn silk
dotted with damask red satin, and re-
lievad on the bodice with dark damask
velvet. The combination is made with
artistic French taste, and the gown is
exceedingly effective. A handsome
costume formed of the same material
has a simulated underskirt, sleeve
puffs, jewe1ed trimmed yoke, and point
ed vest of olive green faille with arch
ed collar and leaf-shaped cuffs of olive
velvet.
Finest French organdie in Marie
Antoinette devices is decidedly one of
the marked favorites of fashion, and
has this summer a prominent place
among her chosen materials. Batiste
in lace effects and embroidered pa
terms figures largely in combination
with foulard silks for revers, fichus,
collarettes and other portions of the
bodice and sleeves.
Alpines, English walking hats, tur-
bans, and the perennial sailor shapes
all those styles which are always in
fashion for travelling wear and general
utility uses-are more than ever pop
ular this year, golf, tennis, yachting
and cycling costumes being incomplete
without finish Of one or the other
of these practical models. This year
the sailor hat is trying to both men
and women. Like an inch on the end
of a mans nose the small addition to
Of hot a1ysc<
all the vital difference between the be
coming and the reverse. In styles for
men, the crowns, even on sizes usually
fitting the wearer, look bulky and over
broad The sailors for women and
girls are as a rule nearly two inches
too high and an inch too wide to look
well or make their wearers look so in
them. However, they are the rage,
brim and crown, and therefore there is
nothing further that need be said for
or against them. The Alpine shapes
are slightly narrower in the brim than
last year, and the crowns somewhat
higher. They are trimmed with stiff
shades, quill feathers, and a bow and
band of bias velvet The pineapple
straws are much used this year, both
for sailors and Alpines for cycling
wear. The trimmed turbans and
English walking hats are quite too
Weighty for comfortable uses just now,
although they can hardly be surpass-
ed as appropriate shapes for travelling.
For the autumn season these velvet
flower and feather trimmed styles will,
however, be all that could be desired.
Matronly women who are disgusted
with the little toy bonnets -fered in
the shops, and do not think the oval
toques becoming, still find the English
walking hats a most satisfactory model
for general wear.
Sleeves of diaphanous gowns are still
very elaborately frilled, tucked, shir-
red, wrinkled, etc, from wrist to puff,
TO match the decorations of the gown
itself, but the very latest French sleeve
has simply no gaIIliture; it is merely
a plain, well-fitted coat shape, increas-
ing in size and proportion to the arm.
There are neither puffs, frills nor dra-
peries at the top, but the ultra-p plain
effect is relieved by elaborate shoulder
knots and bows of ribbon and by lace
ruff1es falling on the sleeve-top from a
bertha or fichu en- suite with the gown.
Sashes. girdIes, centuries that reach
we'll up under the arms; yokes, chate-
laineS. and all the short Figaro Eton,
Zouave and bolero jackets, still prom
inently maintain their hold upon gen.
eral favor There is as yet no change
whatever in these dressy and pictur-
eSque items of the fashionable gown.
and they are as varied this summer in
their smart little guiSeS as the tops of
dress sleeves. Another article of dress
that seems still to thrive by sheer op-
position is the separate waist, and. not
withstanding renewed rumors and .'au-
thentic'' reports, it is certain that they
VIII continue to be favored next season
in darker colors and richer, heavier
textiles. Modistes have now accepted
them, and, as they involve quite as
much time in their shaping, making and
elaborate trimming as the construction
of a plain, simply trimmed costume en-
tire. they change quite as much for
making the waist as for the quiet cos
tune. Many hours are required TO sew
fine beaded passementeries, net-bands,