New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-05
'VWONn/0/TY
SOME HINTS FROM PARIS.
GLIMPSES OF WHAT WILL BE WokN
THIS FALL AND WINTER.
r,,,, MP ,cc1xc INCH so TRAIN A SETTLED
TuING-oDD SHAPES IN FUR CAPEs
AND JACKETS.
Paris, August Is.

AND JACKETS
Paris August Is.
Tho dressmakers are beginning TO give us
rlin1pses Of what will he worn next winter anu
perhaps the most attractive are the handsome oeh'
toilets Of brode silks. on which considerape s"ese
seems 10 be laid The materials themselves are
beautiful brocaled in colors with bits OF goid ahc
,vvor thread cunningly used Brocaded satin mas
been introduced again, with half-delheo hs"e'
maj only show in a certain light and fancy vel
vets which will he used for basques bouses anu
outside Jackets. n
urea stuffs are obtained by mounting embroidered
NET on plain satin One of the elaborate models
displayed this week is of rich glossy green satlh'
with blouse covered by an embroidery OF green
silk gold thread and mock turquoises, the Design
chosen being very light. The blouse is cut out IN
a woke that makes a point In front and this is
Allied in by a scarf Of turquoise blue velvet. the
folds being arranged TO form the points and theh
drawn up high behind to make the bow This ar
rangement comes high about the neck. covering
the choker, and would be clumsy II not per1ecuy
done The upper part OF the sleeve is drapery
of the satin the embroidered lower sleeve meeting
IL in the form of V.
A scarf of blue velvet with a bow on the outside
of the arm makes the cuff. The skirt Is good
example of the new jupe. 1t is close and tight on
the sides with the funess arranged in cluster OF
sharp pleats that spread fan-ke. to drag n trihe,
and the trimming Of net embroidery Is arranged
in a band about the skirt, rising in panel on each
side be lost under the back folds.
UNTRIMMED SKIRTS.
have seen some untrimmed skirts-more than
were 10 be expected this season. If one failed 10
take into account the magnihcence of some Of the
materials provided by the manufacturers.
Stufs really govern styles, and for this reason
we shall have several forms of skirts in vogue this
year. The jupe of rich material Will be fashioned
like the described above, with sufficient godets
TO make it stand a trihe about the feet-really
not so different from the skirt of last year. With
thin clinging materials shall see the close
effects and the dragging inch two of train that
has been seen in the summer lace frocks. while
soft silks and cashmeres will be fashioned In full,
almost straight skirts trimmed with many
ruffles.
The double or sometimes triple skirt
this summer accordion pleated, and the same form.
with scant founces in place of pleats appears in
some of the autumn models.
A gown Of cadet-blue cashmere has trimming
of cut-steel passementere about the hem of the
lower skirt. Above this two draperes, cut
like the halves of handkerchief, the lower one
reaching little below the knees These are slight
ly full In front and on the sides rounded and
much shorter behind. and fit smoothly over the
folds Of the skirt. a narrower line Of the steel
passementerie edges each The bodice is a blouse
of green velvet, with jacket effect fashioned by
the steel embroidery Two small handkerchief
other pieces of the cloth give the effect
the top of the sleeves.
SCARFIIKE YOKEs
The most noticeable effect on blouses at present
are the scarhke yokes Of silk in strong
contrast to the gown. These are as conspicuous
as were the white and colored belts earlier in the
summer. There are many pretty ways OF arrang-
Ing these; they may be pointed and pulled up in
bow behind may end in a choker, appear to be
pulled under straight collar form wings be-
hind the In the latter case. the yoke and
the wings would probably be of the strong colored
silk and the collar of darker velvet that is per
haps used in the trimming of the gown
Fur wraps bid fair to be luxurious this win
ter as mind can devise; and lest the furs them
selves be not sufficiently elaborate. the makers
are covering them with embroderies. generally
consisting of steel beads though cut steel is
be much worn Probably for dressy short gar
ments. caracule and the baby Persian lamb will be
first in favor for these soft. thin skins permit en-
broidery However. little collar of sealskn is
edged by conventional leaf figures done in steel
beads and mock turquoses.
Several odd shapes rather difficult 10 describe
are appearing this year. Many consist of a It,Ie
cape just covering the shoulders. with a vest reach
ing TO the waist and fastened there by belt which
may be of the fur OF broad r.bbon making u
knot behind When capes have yokes the yokes
are not as distinct from the rest of the garment as
they were last year: but are more apt to be OUT
lined upon 1t by trimming or embroidery arranged
Perhaps. 10 put il more plainly. capes last year
had the effect OF being hung from yokes while now
they appear more trimming on the garment
This latter effect naturally is due somewhat to the
fact that outside garments MT rather closely TO
the dress instead of hanging away in full godeis
The fur-makers DO not seem to be using much lace;
but TWO kinds OF fur. and these heavy bead and
stone embroideres are TO be expected in the same
garment 49,, ,,,
The creamy. white caracule Is one Of the lovelest
materials known, and IS most effectively combined
with. or rather. used as trimming for SABLE. III
is not easily obtained but the fur makers prophesy
tina, il will be one Of the fashionable iads OF the