davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03
Gowns of Crimson Cloth.

1t is really deplorabIe fact that many
women insist on choosing bright cardinal
as the color for their costumes under the
impression that it is fashionable, when, in
reality, dark shade of red is the dernier
cri in Paris, and this is charming either
when braided by hand to match, trimmed
with gray chinchilla or braided in black,
and then trimmed with black astrachan.
An English correspondent thus speaks of
a taior-made suit in this tashiona Bile
shade:
Another reason why am very much in
love with dark red is the charm of a cos
tune with a skirt of face cloth, the front
seams braided with fat braid about half
an inch wide, twisted in coils round the
base and narrow up toward the waist,
com pleted with coat covered with lines
of braid, OF the sac shape, but ne'inch be-
low the waist. This has Medioi collar at
the back and facings of chinchllla, while
the sleeves are braided in straight lines,
and the hat, which completes it, is of dark
red felt, somewhat of the boat shape, with
the brlm covered with a full pleating of
violet velvet. shaded violet and red roses
being beneath the brim at either side,
while over the crown waves a double
plume of black. It was an admirable
costume truly, and most admirably worn.
A young girl in this City looks exceed
ingly well in a crimson camas hopsack
material, the skirt of which is trimmed
about the knees with three rows OF black
ribbon velvet. The bolero is of the same
material, edged and braided with exceed
ingly narrow black velvet. The bolero is
fastened from the bust to the waist with
small ornamental fastenings made of vel
vet. 1t is just short enough to show
waistband of black velvet. The revers are
of black velvet, hemmed with astrachan.
a handsome visiting toilette is of one of
the newest reps, dull red in tone, covered
with an overfgure of black brocade the
velvet bodice being trimmed with gallon
and pleated lisse.
Other excellent models are worthy of
our profound consideration, as many ideas
are suggested by them.
One there is in black, the coat faced
with green mcire silk in tucks, with
little frill of lace showing at the top, and
a large collar OF chinchilla. This is elab-
orately braided in a somewhat novel de-
sign, which extends down the seams in
the front OF the skirt, while the skirt
which completes the costume is of green
moire set into groups of triple tucks, the
center box pleat being adorned with oxi-
dised and diamond buttons, and outlined
on either side with killed frill, whlle at
the neck black collar turns over a stock
made of green. A dark cray cloth coat
and skirt are in excellent taste, the coat
cut away in the front at the waist and
L
basque. This has a chinchilla collar Ind
a belt Of white elaborately embroidered.
A dark blue dress exploits braids all over
the coat, which has collar of black as
trachan, and is completed with bodice
of the dark blue cut in one with long
epauIettes and overhanging deep corse-
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03
Styles for Men.

The SWEETEST pocket-books this season
are made OF pigskin, and if there is any
silver used about them it mnst be per-
fectly plain and SOLID, as / am pleased to
say repousse work for such purposes is out
OF date. If monogram or crest is used it
must be engraved.
An unusually good assortment of socks,
gloves and ties is to be had at our leading
haberdashers. The dressing-gowns and
smoking jackets made of bright Scotch
plaid materials are liked.
Speaking OF overcoats, rough cloths are
being much used for them, and melton is
not so we'll liked as beaver. Such a coat
is made moderately loose and has velvet
collar. 1t should be single-breasted, and
the front must be fly one. In length it
comes to just about two inches below the
knee. Only two outside pockets and a
small one additional for change, etc, are
considered necessary. There must not be
any flaps, and the pockets should be one
on each side of the garment, but not a
breast one. a coat of dark brown beaver
is declared to be more useful than black
or blue one.
New Yorkers as yet show no desire to
adopt the fancy waistcoats, which have
been so much discussed of late.
l see that the ties for evening and SEMI
evening wear are wider and broader. OF
course they must be tied by the wearer,
made-up affairs being an abomination.
Him writes to Vogue: II must again
state that never has there been season in
which there were fewer novelties. The
minds of number have become somber,
and the popular taste seems to run to
black. We had very short run of the
brilliant Scotch plaids and tweeds, and to-
day it is rare to see even bright brown
on the streets. Black serges and tweeds
and the REFER (Which has gained unex-
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03

through the forests. but they have never
been known to pull the leg away from the
relentless teeth.
The deadfalls are made both for large
and small animals. In the small horse
shoe Enclosure tempting bait is fastened
on delicate trigger, which, when slightly
moved, let's down upon the animals back
a number of heavy logs. Thes' fall
squareIy upon the back or shoulders OF
the hungry creature, and either break II
or crush ont the life. The animal caught
in deadfall rarely lives to tell the tale.
The wary animals, like the fox, can sell
dom be induced to enter dead all, for
their instincts make them suspicious.
Snares are used for catching variety OF
small animals, and they are arranged In
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03

in style, see that your collar fits. sets and
suits you perfectly. MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03
The Refer.

In Paris the reversible REFER is enjoying
q great vogue, being smart as well as
practical jacket. 1t is short, light in
weight, with a touch of color in the collar,
revers and hood. These jackets are in
dark blue, some with gray and white lin
ings, some with red and black checks; in
golden brown, with light fawn checks; in
dark green, with plaid lining. The neat
little strap shaping the waist and gold
buttons give an effective touch. They are
worn over black velvet or cloth skirts,
with small toque, with wing to match
the color of the hood, etc. East such cos
tunes will be much worn for skating, and
the gowns OF fine black cloth, having per-
fectly plain skirts with boleros composed
of bright cloth, covered completely with
fine black silk braid, are most popular in
New York, as are also suits in dark green
and Bishop violet, with numberless rows
Of black silk braid from the waist to the
hem of the skirt. The jackets have
beautiful cut, which can only be given by
first-clasS tailor.
Tartans are going to be most extensively
worn, one frock of a dark green plaid
being especially chic, and the lining of
such creations must always repeat the
color of one of the stripes. In the case of
The reeler suits the skirts are always lined
with silk which matches the lining ofthe
hood, etc., and the black cloth skirts have
Innings that are OF the exact tone of the
boIeros, and speaking OF skirts reminds
me that balayeuses are things of the past,
as they have proved in many cases ex-
ceedingly unsatisfactory. They are quite
superseded by box pleating of satin rib
bon couple of inches in width. What
relief after our pinched out founcings in
taffetas that were always snaggi9g and
frnrrirnr
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03
Creations Noted in Paris.

Nine. Legrand resides in Paris, but she
dresses with so much taste and originality
that now and then one of her toilettes is
described for our benefit. For example,
she recently wore toilette consisting OF
light-gray cloth skirt, accordion pleated,
and round the foot ran wide band of
braiding. The braid was not sewed on
evenly, being irregular at the edge; the
bodice matched and had an arrangement
in front of gray velvet, enhanced with
spangles. Over this was collet of black
astrachan, EN- embroidered with spangles
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03

great variety of ways, the most common
of which is with the springpole.
The trapper visits these snares, dead.
falls and steel traps every morning, tray-
cling through the woods in the bitterest
cold weather and often returning without
pelt OF any great value. Hard work,
rough fare and little pay are his rewards,
ana there is little wonder that he COM
plains. He sees his industry shrinking
year by year, and without any possible i'm.
provement in the fdture he realizes that
doom of his class has been sounded.
Another generation and he will be gone,
along with the Indian-fghter, the prairie
scout and the buffalo-hunter.
There are 300 women BARRIERS and hair.
dressers in this country.
The San Francisco call., 1897-01-03

let of miroir green velvet. Quite delight
full is bodice, which might be allowed 10
pose as coat; it reaches but to the waist,
is made of turquoise blue miroir velvet,
with large stripes of handmade lace over
the shoulders, and it has draped revers
ard sleeves of mink
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
UouEy's nirs 100 rEiRs AGO.
Then, "a Now. n Cause or Complaint Mt The
ntrc- because OF Their sire.

The ocCultation OF the stage in theatres by the
big hats Of women is rs much a matter OF com-
plant in France as in this country. The com.
plant il over a century old. As long ago a. 1875
the frequcntcrs Of the pit in tho Comedie
FRANCHISE complained that their view of the
stage was cut Off by tho big bonnets and high
hats OF the women who sat in the front OF the
theatre. They dared not complain openly, and
they avenged themselves in lampoons and cpl
grains. Here is one which appeared that year:
The hcad-drcss Of our women becomes higher
and higher. and what was looked upon some
months ago ~ ridiculoGsly high. iinow no longer
high. even for IN" bourgeois. Women Of quality
wear ptun's two or three feet tall. and the Queen
has set the EXAMPLE
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
Avoid Distressing ana Irritating SUBJECTS Mt
the Dinner Fable.
From the Haadeilhm pr,,,.


why II 1t that In most households the dinner table
becomes - dumping -ruuni Tor the wholesale plants
Of t.. mcmrer,3 Probably because ,A!s is the only
meal ut tho iay wLcL tlroutirr family meet together
each one feels Il aGuty 10 ar q few personal gr,cv.
ance- ia or!,r - geek ro"-oiitlon from the oth"rs.
out II Go'crCuec To- digestion. Y Tor no other reason,
dinner table conversation should be- u he spiricst.
but this fact - lost sight u In the general desire II
everybody, from rnpu huNn 10 Tie youngsters. u
serve up only those topics which have married rather
than ma.o the day happiness.
Hardly has the man ~ tie house Gai,hcd his carv.
Ing duties tcror' he falls into an animated nlaariaI
discussion with hs vie. Household expenses are
rehashcd, biz, grumr.gd over, aud the cost OF living
recaIrUIated with tedious regularity.
Mother, IN her turn, eagerly yous- into any listening
ear her domestic WOES. The day 8 errors below stairs
are infinitely recorded, she si1la over Briigrt's but.
ter waste, declares that the butchers indifference to
her order is ! becoming intoterahle, aud So On,
Then the small boy poor At;.c target FOR family nav
picking comes lH ;or his share utvrircisn. His failures
at school are rrIentlcSsly rGkri up anil all sorts or
panlshments threatened uHicsy turrc Is speedy re.
form.
II there are guests present this talk NJ the inner cir.
Gle II, for cuurtosy's sake, given a less persona! llvor.
but only then, GOOD cheer ANA plenty OF IT. Is not
the motto OF the average Family dinner,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
GEoRGIA's ToMiN GoLD HUNTER.
She Has Grrn one firty Years and Has n
stocLing IulI or cold nl.t.

ArLANrA. Ca. March ll.-Nary Odom. gold
hunter. lives IA a li'.lc cabin On The mountain
side. about q mile from Auriri1. the ancient
mining town " north Georgia, whose best days
were those prior - the discovery OF gold IN Cal.
isornia in l>iD. The cabin was Quilt By a miner
named Odom. amt when tho excitement in Cali.
fornia besln h. babe his witc and daughter
Mar, then 4 gil - years oil. farewell, and
started West. HIS family never heard from
him again.
His wife managed to support herself. ard, hay.
INK some knowledge o.. -p!L mining. taught
MAry how 20 wash IN" golden grains rom Tho
sLnG In the beds ot the mountain streams. The
two We're quite successful and gathered 4 great
deal Of gold dust. W hen Mar was rs years old
her mother died. That wa, IN l~i2. and the
United states mint was stu in operation 80
DahlOncsa. Mar soon grew expert ia Au!IGc
gold, and many Il pcnnywc.Eht did she carry 20
tn" mint. Having dis"osed OF il. she s],cr';c!.
invariably, half her profits IN the cabin at tAe
mouth ot the gulun above Aurnria.
The war came on and the mint was broken MP
AMI FOR four wears Mary Odom had 4 hard Time
of 10. The Confederate Government needles. all
the money II could get and the 'ithe etthorrrs
made FREQ lent visits TO her cabin ia search Of
Aitcr thn war matters, ''ti."4 down a u't'', amt
when she was l-sUrna Ot the projection ut tho
civil. authorities she went about hgr work
boldly .had devoted al ine time thtt she 'gg!t
spare from the cultivation nj be-. llt'ie patch of
cleared land to ID" business OF gold bunting.
The richest deposits blt been worked over so
much that they were uOr so profitable us they
had been when 81, a.-' began 20 wash
gold IN the moanl''p .,rsamm,: she i!yC!
OF corn. cabbage, and potatoes. and spun and
wove her own clothing. She ha. alwpl- kept mp
whether they we've large or amall. sometimes
her ",lsEtnf = would NOT amour. 20 much during
the week, bat n she Hcvprrr only f,tv cents -Lr
would PIT aside a quart " sn- pend ta"
rest, pteriag out her wants by going into lnFf.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
SHE OBEYED ORDERS.
Couldn't he Ria med n son" OF the Callers Re-
fused 10 Give Their Names.
From me Chicago Times. Herald.

''""f nv ''''a' ''"'' '''''f
They had been discussing that everlasting
servant prDbinIn, which can always be- depended
upon 10 furnish n topic for conversation when
three or .oUr women are gathered together.
Each had told Of her experience with her
"hclN," when one Of them said:
My new houscmaid Is The srccncs, girl YOU
ever saw in your life. Her ignorance j. a per.
pctual source OF wonder 20 ne. lL' dav after |
got he wcn' out shopp.n- and Told nnr II any
one called daring nay tb-cur" ia say | was out
and a-k his name, These seemed simple in.
strucrion-, but | thought ,hG would Uord them.
When | returned | asked IL any body had
called.
"'Nns. mum. they did, she replied.
"'WhO were they I
They wouldn't tell their names, she an.
sworcd.
wouldn't tell their James,! I exclaimed in
YES. mum; hut | think one o; them said
"hNnanus' ant the other " rags,
II demanded further particulars.
~ tried 10 tell them you was out and ask
their names. You hadn't been gone very long
when one of them Cnin". II wls the man who
called bananas, ! remembered what You suid.
mum. and | went after him and told him YOU
was out. He asked me II | wanted any btnanas
and | todd him no. that you was ont and asked
what was bis name, But he wouldn't tell me.
Il was the same with the other person who
called, lie jailed rags and only laughed at mo
when | ran after him,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
COrILLON ON SKATES.


In these days when all sorts Of athletics and
sports are the fashion and all women are eager
70 become -kilfUl in all the nmusenents in which
they can iEaul-c, i ]cotulon on skates may be an
item Of interest even though it did take place In
London at the Princes skating Club. Royal
ladies gracod the occasion with their presence.
says the Ldiy's Pictorial, and Lady Ran
dolph Churchill, Lady Caycndish. and other
wcl..known women OF London society were
among the dancers. .As il was given
in rhe Interest 81 a building fund for
u homeopathic hospital. and every one
had 10 subscribe a guinea, such little attractive
accessories a. flowers and fAvOr- were not
allowed, but the ladies frightened the scene by
wearing red gowns. The skirt. were Of cardinal
cloth. he EodicCs OF red chiffon and tullc, and
they we're all made exactly alike, with u band NJ
brown fur AT the bottom of the skirt and one
on the waist IN the form Of a round bOleru back
and front, Their toQues were in two shades OF
red velvet with for tails AMI red osprcys for
trimming. Twelve ladies in tn. bright costume
and as many gentlemen in fun evening dress
must have made a very charming picture.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14
HOBBIES OF RorAL LADIES.
The Pet Fanries THAT Queens and pTinccsse-
Are Able to indulge.


IL n mistake to imagine that tho royalties or
the world are idle. Tho nre olvy,vs prrupjcd.
10 ,h,.a, 49,. -. a.nhn. 80 ,,,,j
II '"et9 ~ h'I court Cerei'oui"'' ." '''''''
royal visitors TO entertain. there arc costumes 10
supcrintend and scl.,, and all the REGIMEN Of
,ts ,if
i'o u Oph "i'1r' NAN! u inc roIA' ''''' "'V
accomplished musicians, painters, AMI entertain
thCusalv,s in y,ri,ra ,,,y.. aud "A, ia oetnpt4h.
49, - -
mH ~ Hnu no" many OF 'hcih 'N'u' III INC p'''
teal arts OF cooking and ucedlcwOrk. Queen
Victoria vhosc c,-cr,,l hobby il p,usic. b,s
-. -. III -,
uu'"'' nv ""nEh'er' " wv u9''u' ~ W. 's
accomplished women; and they may ali be sAif
70 no ct,cir,, and ,-,is,ir tn have thcir
" -"
laus' ho"''tr' ike lh' oih'' qH''hlN ''''p'''''''
The Queen likes, herself. to study UildustlneC,
and In arn brr f,vY,r;t, l,.z and ,,rf..
r, - -
Inc iTlh''-5 I''iFl'c mas '1H ip' '"lI'''llS
lace and studying the subject. and another
nIea surc ia o. rI,pip.r yvhi,b t,.Ir a., iyhpr,ig
-, -,
Iton the on.'h' IN 'I''r 5'utN "" y. ,it r"!il
children had at Oshurnc, the beautiful home IN
the IsIe nj WIGHT .,rtr,,, u,,,, carbon. Of
.- -, al
fruits anu mowers. lh'7c arc sun N'p'' ohl l''
Princess Beatrice Is the only one who tends her
-.
lIohs anu pllN'o "' 'laSet'' N'A Ut -'l! '!"I
Queen Victori, loves hotter than aI' flowers =
handful NJ fbss, a'1.f n, .lE,.l.I r,ur-. ,ulti.
- g. .t,
NaIcl w hcF 'NuEhi'F ANA i'H' .. udbN! h''Ho-
RIGS. Near this little garden is . huge pack Of
-nhbit. NJ .b. io,,.vy,,'ls,l obi. Ami, variety.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

FROM me chicago Post.
She had Just returned from a visit to Milwaukee.
and something had happened to d~isplease her.
=" The fact OF the matter Is she said, we get swim
died in this town and haven't sense enough to know
IT,"
"You must have run across a bargain somew here"
he suggested. for he knew her failing.
Bargain she exclaimed. why, I tell you, VIII
liam, we don't know where to shop "a make money,
Do YOU remember that last white shirt I bought you ~
He did. HI would have said he did even II he
didn't. but IL so happened hts time that he did, for It
had given him considerable trouble in one way and
another,
"well," she exclaimed, 81 paid Just a dollar for
that shirt In Chicago, and | saw an exact duplicate Of
ft at a marke down sale in Milw akee for o. cents"
why didn't you go on to ST. Paul p" he asked,
YEARLY. " Perhaps you could have got the same
thing for o.. or Winnipeg might have given IL to you
for 81. one has to go after bargains, you know"
She wasn't quite sure whether he was making fun
Of her. hut she felt that II was pussible, and refused
to continue tine subject In consequence.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

|TTW TWF TTNTEW TWTVNIIT''
on saturday afternoon. lust after Nine. Calv6 had
suus the jewel .oug IA "Fau,t'-and iivinely she
BROUGHT out the Ira matte value As wei! as the musical
beauty OF iE-Mlle. BaIerneist,r, as Martha, in
squeezing between Nine, Ca!v+ and the table on
which the jewel caSket lay, brushed M the mirror.
It :ell with a crash 70 The door, and Marguerite and
Mlrthd's faces tell instantly. oalva ran at once and
picked up the mirror. Closely she examined IL to SEQ
II IL were cracked, and her face broke into i radiant
smile when she discovered that the mirror was intact.
She pressed the bit Of glass loytuly To her bosom
and then replaced Il on the table, Edouari d. Reszke,
who was also on tne stage, aud his fair associates,
some spectators aver, deyoutly crossed themselves.
moreover, when the mirror fell. Nothing Gniurkier
than 20 smash a mirror q. known To the sup"rsritlous
and operate folk believe IL every omen and por,
tent under the sun.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

mand. However. we have some very new things
ulumina.e'! enamel on copper. II has a miniature
OF Paul and Virginia on II AZ the end. and below
that tn effect IL in Dresden figures. The price
IL S25 Just for the handle, and, OF course, IL
would only 20 with a handsome pnTusol.
Handles OF plain gun metal arc exceedingly
ADVANTAGE OF being very light. Plain ones sell as
low as S=.75. while those studded with genuine
pearls cost S35. They are adjustable, so that
one may remove the handle when she vi-hcs 10
check her umbrella. or leave IL where she IS apt
TO forget II. Carved burnt ivory handles
are as fashionable a. ever, and this
season they are embell!shed with a single
large garnet. ~olivine. or amethyst, set in
the centre in a design OF gilded silver. Straight
Jade handles, plain and ;ewelled, are also much
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

ular white bread. The proportions arc these:
Put two cups Of milk into a bowl. and add q tea
spoonful Of butter and half a teaspoonful Of salt.
Turn over these ingredients two cups OF boiling
water and stir them until the butter IL melted.
When the mixture IL Just topid add one quar-
ter of u Yeast cake. dissolved in u little
water, and one egg. Stir in gluten to
mako the mixture n thin batter, and
beat IL together for several minutes. Let this
sponge stand in a warm place TO rise then add
more gluten until the sponge Is made into "A
dough as soft as can be handled. knead IL
lightly for fifteen Or twenty minutes and then
make IL into small iotves. Place them in but
tered tins and let them again rise. Bake in a
moderate oven one hour.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

"Parasolettcs or carriage parpsol5 have kept
pace with other parasols and umbrellas this sea-
son. The latest fad Is for those made OF black
net over colored Innings, and then there are all
trimmed in lace and ribbon, Hpd bespangled.
I'm so bewildered | cant possibly decide on
all | want to-day" said the girl as she selected
three paTasoll and an umbrella.
IL wouldn't advised the clerk. IF | were
In your place, because some more new ones Viii
be brought out before Faster
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

eri,ica! eyes to the quality. harmonious color
Ing. and design OF her protector against heat
and storm.
The parasols are so lovely this year I can't
possibly get on with less than seven or eight.
aIG a young shopper to a woman at the head OF
the umbrella department in a store noted for its
large stock and exclusive designs. How will I
ever be able 70 select so many beauties r.
You ought to be able to pick them out In
shur-y. 7 should think. II you are going to get
so many answered the clerk smilingly. Now,
II you could have only one. it would be a task to
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-03-14

believe thai the hour has come 10 r"vrpl their
genius. one Of them, tie ~iour BrlulLrl. con.
triyti a spring by means ~ which a hat could
again When IL was clear VI TIE obstacle. He said
OF h, tgEcG'0u:
Hat 70 '1 tonne mrDtuH. IS means Of hidden
springs, very ols!lt W1Hl god, can De raised an!
lowered at viii. They are. when one Is az home.
modest ana o.; medium -iz,-if one be- abroad. o.
a large -lIn, a., the spring can Be- .uO-c1. and the
htts tll al the conditions tnAt t-sh.on and good
tat. demand