davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

should appear under the edges of the
blue twill killed skirt and the head can
be topped off or not, as preference may
decide, with plaid silk white cap
ornamented with a huge scarlet silk
tassel. Watch caps are frankly adopted
this season by all young women who
do not in the least mind the heaviest
coats of sunburn and who know what
is eminently becoming to a young and
piquant type of face. Older and more
careful women are clinging valiantly
to the round sailor hat of rough straw
higher than usual in the crown, of or
binary width in brim and decorated
directly in front of the brim or bright
with red and white ribbon. drawn
into a small neat bow on one side. To
the trimmed REFER another branch of
young mermaids have given consider
able attention, wearing those made of
pure white suede, the head band orna-
mented with three gold stars and per-
haps a bouquet of white and scarlet
gull wings fastened to the head band
and outstanding to one side. These
women's REFERS as often as not are
made of ribbed scarlet silk, or serge to
match some part of the red costumes
worn, and over their broad tops pass
ribbon bands, that in breezy moments
can be drawn down and fastened under
the chin, in order to make everything
taut and secure.
A large number of women neverthe-
less make no concessions to the winds
and their wavy environment whatso-
ever and wear on board their husbands
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

A little zone of silk or satin with the
fewest possible bones is the new corset.
For this decrease in the size and
strength of stays" says an amiable
French corsetiere, who boasts that she
imports and makes only for ladies of
very high degree, your new American
passion for sport is directly respon-
sible, madame. and the same thing is
becoming the case in Paris, l find.
Why, 1 should say the wheel and the
golf club ought TO bear what we might
call the blame. for let me tell you a
little secret. The ladies who come into
my shop for fitting and measures de-
mand less and less whalebone, fewer
steels than ever before, and some Of
them wish they needed to wear no cor
set at all.
Par example, look here, if you
please, and here" and the plump little
woman laid two pair of stays side by
side. The first was a shaDely affair,
measuring II inches from top to bottom
of the front steel, compounded of the
stiffest coutille and so choice whale
bones, six side steels and 10 steel bust
braces; three strips Of satin ribbon and
10 whalebone about six inches long
composed the second.
A BABY OF A CORSET.
This indicated the French woman,
was the approved corset, according to
the pattern of which we made thou
sands two years ago, and this is what
we are making for 81. Let me tell you,
it is sad, but the old corset is done for.
Your wretched sport in which you
American women find so much pleasure
is running our trade. There are just
half the number of stout women to
make for that we used to have. With
golf and bicycling they are reducing
themselves, and you see what they now
demand. The perfect corset for this
spring must be cool and short, very
light, have few bones. and, above all.
give freedom in the waist Here is what
we make. For the golf course, a per-
feet baby of a corset, in which you
count just II bones, and the length nine
inches. Instead of coutille, silk or satin,
a cotton net doubled is the material we
use. You would hardly call that a hand
of steel in a glove of velvet. would you,
especially as there are only two steels,
instead of six, any longer used in our
best corsets, and those must be very
thin and very flexible. The idea of this
mere belt, as you can see, is but to give
the figure slight support, and leave
hips, waist and arm free for the grand
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

than knitted silk adaptations of Vene-
tan gondoiier sashes. that are pic
turesque and useful, nevertheless.
When not needed for warmth, it is
proper to knot ones silk muller SASH
wise about the waist, and, for after
noon tea on deck, either linen or
checked silk dicky can be slipped out
and a lace or chiffon front introduced.
By this means the question of dressing
for dinner at the seaside is promptly
and comfortably settled, which in a
measure accounts for the many open
fronIed yachting suits.
IMPORTANT DETAILS.
In the afternoon, too, on deck, heavy
leather ties are exchanged for low
heeled, round-toed slippers, made of
white, or clear navy blue glace kid,
having tiny gold anchor buckles on the
step, or for shippers quite as pretty
made of snow white canvas cloth, hav-
ing a small steel cromwell buckle hold
ing big flap of whitewash leather on
the insteD- All these deck boots have
the thinneSt slice of rubber placed be-
tween the layers of leather and their
bottoms carefully roughened, in order
TO prevent slipping. The one jewel
worn with any OF the water costumes
above described is a bracelet that one
can have in silver or gold, for good
taste does not approve of the yachting
chatelains, hatpins of special nautical
design, jewel beaded chains to which
tiny binoculars are attached, or ultra
marine breaches literally begemmed,
for which there is a strong effort being
made.
Occasionally carefully costumed
woman wears a little silver pulley
block, or tiny white enamel and gold
round life buoy brooch, but her only
special ornament is thick, flexible
silver cord bracelet, on which is strung
a tiny watch and a silver barometer
and compass of the sizes of the watch
This fastens rather closely about the
high wrist, or in place of the cord a
white wash leather strap is used,
snapped together with a silver button
in place of a clumsy buckle. On all the
little pieces of yachting jewelry, inside
her various deck hats, her shoes and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

Flatulence is cured by Beecham's
Pills.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16
SMALL SUMMER STAYS.

swing and the great twist necessary in
using the clubs.
Sometimes instead of net we employ
kind of flat basket work, made of
narrow bObbin, and again we build the
same sort of little corset out of strips
of ribbon half an inch wide and run
ming round and round the waist. Such
stays are considered by ladies of ex-
perience quite as nice for the wheel, for
tennis and for riding as the golf course.
They are cool and light and pliable, yet
we have patrons who catch cold easy
and adopt these, the new wooden cor
sets. They have no laceS in the back,
you see, and are woven of pure wool,
in one piece, that measures only II
inches across the waist line. That u
inches, through the elasticity of the
wool, is easilv drawn out to fold close
about a % or 25-inch waist, and this
wooden girdle hooks up in front in a
perfectly orthodox fashion.
THE women like them because they
are so easily put off and on. When off
they spring back into the smallest
compass, and they really do keep one
cooler, as wooden underwear always
does on a warm day. Besides, for deli
cate persons of course they are much
safer than the openwork ones All the
corsetS I've been showing you here,
however, are meant for stout women
explained the voluble little corsetiere.
Here is a satin dress corset, eight
inches long, cut in a deep in front
and so sliced away on the hips that just
a handful of bones and satin remains.
There are one or two hooks in front,
and If you will kindly observe the big
hook we fasten low down in front, I'M
der which the belts of petticoats catch,
you will see it is made of gold, with
tiny Jewels set in it. Now for evening
wear we have still another STAY. 1t
opens but once in the back, and there
it laces, you see, like the bodice Of a
ball dress. Only the long pointed front
is boned and that heavily, While on the
hips, by slashing what we call the
skirts of the corset, no combining pres
sure is made there. By means of the
laces behind this corset can be made to
fit every curve of the figure, and they
have been introduced in behalf of the
summer ball gowns that are cut on the
early Victorian models.
These all are the STAYS for occasions
when more or less ceremony of dress
must be observed. When at home in
morning suit. or a simple afternoon re-
ception toilet, still less bone and lacing
is resorted to, and ordinarily slim
women use the little zone supporters
entirely See herei" and the prOprie-
tress of the shop so full of dainty
wares, drew down a square box and
took out a contrivance of three rose
colored satin ribbons, caught together
at intervals with clusters of two whale
bones, about 612 inches long. By clasps
hidden under rOsettes of narrow ribbon,
this zone of ribbons passing about the
body clasps in front. Still more lovely
were the zones made of white lace,
braced with a few bones, and hooking
together in the same way, while to
wear over either of these delicate stays
were corset covers made of alternate
bands of lace and ribbon, sleeveless.
cut in a deep surplice in front, and
gathered in to a ribbon belt at the
waist line.
MILLICENT ARROWPOINT.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16
Copyright. 1897. by VIM. Du Bots.

Vienna, May 9.-As the spring adj
vances heavy cloths and silks, and
dense dark colors like marine blue,
bottle-green and purple, which have so
Ions stood high in fashions favor,
seem more and more out of place and
have TO make way for lighter fabrics
and daintier shades to harmonic with
the fresh green verdure, the balmy air
and the bright sunshine. Pearl grey,
tan and light browns predominant in
the newest gowns, together with the
fashionable red in various shades toned
down by black braiding or soutache.
Gold braid and darker brown soutache
decorates light brown gowns, and silver
braid enhances pearly grey toilettes
wonderfully. The bolero continues to
hold it's own on the street gowns or in
door dresses and costumers intend that
it shall yet ENJOY great longevity, par
ticularly as it admits of such charming
variations in design, shape and style.
On plain worsted gowns this little
Jacket is generally short and covered
with soutache braiding, while the ele-
CANT velvet bolero worn Independently
of the gown, with hat and belt to
match, is longer. For the soiree and
demi-toilette, it is made of guipure or
embroidered closely with gold or silver
thread, pearls. spangles. or semi
precious stones, and the folded belt of
velvet or silk almost invariably ac
companies the bolero and is matched
in color and material by the folded
collar with its large plating or ruff of
lace or gauze at the back. By tasteful
arrangement Of these little toilette ac-
cessories wonderful effects can be pro-
duced at small expense, and this is
secret which the Parisienne holds
above all women.
A beautiful fabric which we have al
lowed to rest in oblivion during many
years and whose return we welcome
with pleasure, is cashmere or Henriet-
ia cloth. 1t shows off particularly we'll
in soft greys, and our illustration is in
tended to be made up out of this ma
terial of a pearly grey. We hope that
the exquisite and novel color union of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

on the bands of her clothing, the wife
of a yacht owner has engraved and
embroidered, not her own initials only,
but the name of her husbands boat
and the private signal in the colors of
the bunting.
There is a commendable simplicity
observed in the seaside and boating
suits for little girls. Their dressmakers
may utilize all the materials adopted
by the grown-ups, but the favorite
model this summer for a small girls
beach dress is a blue or sand brown
serge, made with killed skirt and a
Russian blouse waist, gathered in by a
wide black vanished or whitewashed
leather belt. A strip of white linen is
slipped inside the straight band collar.
and a wide brimmed checked blue and
white straw hat tops off the sensible
suit Rubber, solid pigskin sand shoes
and scarlet socks or long black stock
ings are the final addenda, when the
youngster wears her shoes at all, for
this year the most fashionable of
mothers are to follow the new cure of
the fresh-air maniacS and improve the
carriage and complexion of our future
debutantes by giving them barefoot
summers NINA FITCH.
Try Aromel, the breath perfume,
five cents.
Flatulence is cured by Beechams
Pills.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

aboard a boat, or an afternoon on deck
is very much more becomingly and
comfortably spent in a Powered head
piece, and dotted veil, than in a cap
and coat of tan.
Wells, CORSETS AND GLOVES.
The coat of tan brings one around
most naturally TO the counters where
yachting gloves and wells are for sale.
The first heavy and in white, navy blue
or pale tan skin, all stitched narrowly
with scarlet silk threads, the ribs on
the back of the gloves ending in tiny
scarlet anchors. White or red celluloid
buttons on these gloves are prettily or
namented to represent capstan top or
compass points, while tho veil that in
sures the tinnid sailor woman against
tan and sunburn is now made of finest
batiste, or what is both cooler and
lighter, of tulle dark blue or green
tint, woven double in mesh.
In this year of invention and adj
vancement the lady of fashion who
goes yachting dresses as carefully for
the occasion without as within. We
have now the yachting corset-very
short on hips and bust, as all new cor
sets are, and its few flexible bones held
in place by network of narrow white
bobbin bands. This corset is worn over
a combination of Isle thread or woven
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16
(CH. DREcoLL, Vienna.)

being edged by very narrow green
satin ribbon. A full ruffle encircles the
neck and is caught by loops of narrow
green ribbon. The tight crumpled
sleeve of mousseline de sole is unlined
and finished at the wrist by a ribbon
edged, accordion pleated flounce, and
has a shoulder puff of white moussel-
inc de sole draped with a similar
fiounce. A narrow gathered heading
of mousseline de sole runs lengthwise
along the outside of the arm and is
trimmed and caught by tiny loops of
the narrow green satin ribbon. The
wide belt of taffeta has several rows
of ribbon sewn on it and closed at the
side with a large rosette formed by
loops of the narrow ribbon.
Another decolette gown suitable for
a young matron is exquisite in it's rich
elegance of form and trimming. Heavy
black satin is cut "Princesse" and with
quite a long train. Richest black jet
pasSementerie covers with iridescent
splendor the whole front of the skirt,
ending in two wide straps which pass
from the center of the waist line in
front over the shoulders, meeting again
at the back and ending there in tabs
falling over the back of the skirt. The
arrangement of these shoulder straps
form a deep V-shaped decollete which
is filed in with black pleated NOUS
seine de sole. The unlined sleeves
consist of crumpled black dotted nous
seine de sole and form a small Duff
at the shoulder. Canary colored Lyons
velvet is draped into deep pleated ep-
aulette and silk and velvet French
roses of the same shade as the velvet
trim the left shoulder and one side of
the corsage.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

garments, o. the same thing in mixed
silk and wool and a bright gloria silk
petticoat is cast over that. The whole
arrangement is schemed out for the
sake of avoiding weight, to facilitate
easy movements and to at once keep
the. wearer cool, but also from chill.
On such underwear yachting skirts
of tweed and the heavier cloths are
worn without silk Innings, and the
lightweight serges and cotton are either
lined with silk or made on separate
silk petticoats. All water skirts are cut
on the bell pattern and the red tweed
shown is decorated with a new serge
braid, at once loose and very woody.
The red tweed has its full braided
bolero coat, lined with a. red and white
taffeta silk to match the shirt used I'M
der it, while the owner of the suit when
she finds it desirable to make a change,
can throw off both coat and waist and
draw on a sweater of white silk, bear
ing the yachts name in red across the
chest. The bottom of such a sweater is
usually woven in a series of two-inch
wide tabs, that are about as long, to
fall around the hips and under a belt
of white or red suede that has steel
harness buckle.
The collar rolls UP high and close
about the throat, and in white, blue or
red silk these are to be worn through
the hot weather by fashionable women
in place of the wool ones. Another sub
stitute for boned bodices and coats are
shirt waists of the heaviest white
corded silk worn with white linen cuffs
and collars, and, instead of leather
belts, wide folded girdles of bias silk,
fastened in front with huge skeleton
belts of cut silver, or four pronged bars
of French brillants.
A REVIVAL OF THE DICKEY.
On every hand are for sale, in linen
or silk, small and large dickies, for
which of late women have conceived
great fondness. Among the sketches is
shown one of a white French serge,
round of skirt, and its blouse coat half
unbuttoned and thrown back in revers
to display a dicky shirt front of white
linen. To the eye of the casual OBJ
server an entire shirt waist is suggest
ed, and a big plaid cushion cravat of
silk is crossed upon It. The design in
simple lines most carefully typifes
what is, on the whole, considered
sweetest and best in boating suit. for,
with rare exceptions, the full blouse
waist predominates, and when white
linen is not wished for in the neck
dicky of vivid checked red and white
plaid silk with a turnover neck frill
of white lace. can be substituted. Four
finland, cushion, string and grenadine
ties are all of service in the way Of
neck adornments when dressed for the
sea, while in case of cold weather there
are charming silk scarfs sold to wrap
twice about the neck and tie on one
side, letting tasseled ends fall over the
shoulders. These are nothing more
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16
WATER TOILETS.
SUMMER YACHTING AND BOAT.
ING DRESSES.
Thev Are Made of Fishers Twill,
Pilot and Sailcloth, Serge and
crispine-other New Features For
Sailor Gowns.

New York, May 1S.-Amid the vio-
lence of colors with which we have
been assailed. in all their primary tints'
this spring, it is safe to say that none
is so all-predominating as red. 1t is
correct TO wear red when. where or
howsoever you may please, from
fiorid cardinal and poppy to pale ge-
raniunf. Undoubtedly the latest dash
of carmine adopted by the woman of
many and well chosen toilets is in her
shoes. A year ago she would not have
dared to show the verrnillion-clad feet
outside of her bedroom that she now
proclairns as one of the prettiest at
tributes of her country costumes, and,
above all others, prefers with her
yachting dress.
That, too, is red, at least, it is more
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16

square-crowned roiiing-brimmed straw
walking hats. bright with flowers of as
many colorS as there were hues in Jo-
seph's coat. 1t is really only when
cruising that the sailor watch cap and
REFER are by wise women worn at all,
for if the truth must be told. a day
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-16
SUMNER ZONES.
ELEGANT, COOL AND LIGHT.
WEIGHT STAYS FOR HOT
WEATHER.

They Are Short, Have Very Few
Bones, and the Corset Makers
Complain That the American
Woman's Love of Sport Is Ruin
ing Their Business.
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1897-06-10
THE suLTAN.S HEIR.
His Eldest Brother, Who Is Little
Known Among the People.

Known Among the People.
The sultan's heir is not his eldest son,
by his eldest brother. The eldest male
succeeds. Such is the law of Islam, and
the fruitful source of dynasty murders
in almost every reign since the Turks
became power, says the London Echo.
The sultan has four brothers; not one,
only as was lately alleged. This eldest
brother is Rechad Effendi; that is to
say. he is the eldest after ex-Sultan
Murad ", who, being insane, is not
counted. The third brother is Waredin,
and the fourth Suliman. The sultan's
eldest son, Prince Selim, has no earthly
chance of succeeding his father. He
has too many uncles and uncles' sons
for that. But Prince Selim is lucky, if
he knows it, for he is not dangerous"
He lives q life of freedom, whereas the
heir is, by the custom of the Ottomans,
kind of life prisoner.
Rechad Effendi is rarely seen. Every
time he drives out he is escorted by
troop. less by way of an escort than as
a guard. The few who do know him
like him, for he is said to be courteous,
humane, well-informed man, acquainted
with current politics and keenly inter-
ested in them. He is a good farmer.
The pretty palace known as the Tcher-
agan is his residence. OF course,
Rechad's visitors are searched before
they are admitted, and when they are
leaving, by the sultans officials. Dur
ing this time of trouble in Armenia,
Constantinople and Crete, Eechad has
been moro narrowly watched than ever,
for the sultan and his clique know that
Rechad is popular. Unlike the sultan,
Rechad is one of the most handsome
men in Constantinople.
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1897-06-10

Prof. E. S. Cox, superintendent of
the public schools of Sidney, Ohio, was
a visitor here on Saturday afternoon
last, while en- route to his home in Bel
pre- TO spend the summer. Prof Cox
was honored by the Sidney board of
education with an election for two
years to the office which he now holds,
which is an ample testimonial of the
high esteem in which he is held.
Mr.. Edward Cox, formerly a resident
OF this city, but whose home is now in
Belpre, was visitor here for few
hours Monday, being en- route to Co.
lumbus to present himself before the
supreme Court Commission TO be ex-
amined for admission to the bar. Mr.
Cox is a graduate of the Chilicothe
High School and a son of Prof. E, S.
Cox, now superintendent of public in
s,ruction at Sidney -Chiilicothe Ga.
-otte.
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1897-06-10
THE TROLLEY BUZZ.

And Something About the Trolley
Cars as n Cure for Headache.
Ever hear of the trolley buzz?' said
a Brooklyn resident whose business is
in New York. They say that some
people who travel regularly on the troll
ley cars get the trolley buzz. You know
the sound of the trolley, the bz-z-z-z
that begins low and rises gradually as
the car increases in speed, keeping a
Uniform tone when the car is running
ut uniform speed, and then declining
again as the car runs slower and stop
ping when the car stops? They say
there are people who travel regularly on
trolleys who hear this sound all the
time wherever they are, except when
they are asleep, They call this having
the trolley buzz,
i never had the trolley buzz. but the
trolley cars sometimes do me great
deal of good. They cure me of head
ache. 1 work here all day, keeping
very busy, and sometimes when I start
home at night 1 have hard headache.
I get into trolley car and take seat
over one OF the axles. They say that no
electricity gets into the car, but l i'm
agine there must be more or less of it in
the air. / know there is something
there that cures my headache. l sit
down in the car with the headache bad;
get down from it after ride of about
three miles, feeling bright and fresh
and with the headache gone"