New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-07-03
{ ES?ssE5SS!']TALK2:'
THE FRYINa-PAN AND THE oRTLk
An old rhyme says:


THE frying-pan came before the grill.
And the dish Jagged after the spoon"
The frying pan has always furnished o metho9
Of cooking popular In pioneer semi-civlised life
The grill or grioiron Is properly considered - rsps
rcsenting civilized species Of cookery. yry.
Ing has also been a method OF cookery more popu.
lar among nations Of the Latin races than among
Anglo-saxons. Whatever sins the stalwart Briton
may have committed In the way OF Drawn ana
beer. he has never preferred fried meats. but has
fed upon roasted and grillcd or broled flesh. He
has left fried meat 10 the Spaniard. whose sallow
starved visage suggests generations OF ancestors
fed upon such food. and the inevitable deteriors-
ton OF mind and morals that comes with this diet.
How much OF the revengeful nature and cadaver.
look o. the modern Italian peasant Is due 70
his being underfed on indgestibic fried messss
with superabundance Of fine wheat -four? The
Frenchman has a penchant for fried food. But
with the natural power which the French possess
OF adapting everything TO their needs they have
revolutionized the process OF frying and made u
a wholesome one.
Frenchman rejects at once the frying pan. BE-
cause II IS not deep enough for the article fried -
be submerged In fat. In the shallow frying-paa
about half the food frying Is above the fat, and
this soaks It up The French invariably use a deep
kettle OF fat. In this the food be fried Is Inn
mersed, so that every portion OF Its surface 70
hardened over instantly and the fat cannot pens-
trate within.
Inere Is no Objection 10 1000 properly cooked IN
this way. except that II the process Is continued
too long the article cooked becomes hard and dry.
Such cookery also requires considerable "judg.
ment." II Is necessary to know just when to Inn
merse FIXTURE" OF meat or any other article to
be fried In the heating fat. The fat be smok.
Ing In the centre well at the sides. II must
be intensely hot for a moist article like potato
croquettes and not so hot for doughnuts. All such
cooking requires that nice care in which French
people excel
1t follows that cook fries successfully a. q
French enc. A properly fried and drained French
'frture' can be handled with the fingers without
soiling them. We all know how few articles of
fried meat or croQuettes fulfil this requirement The
secret OF success Is to have the fat exactly the
proper temperature ard immense the article to b
cooked so quickly that II browns on the instant Of
immersion. Most articles cool the fat a little.
Bread cools the fat less than almost anything
else; therefore the usual test OF immersing a small
square of bread in hot fat to try 1t Is not salts
factory one. fat that will cook square Of bread
dar!, brown in an instant is about the proper tenn
perature to cook a number OF croquettes.
Dreaded meats and raw articles In general ned
to be cooked ten minutes. Croquettes and all
Dreaded articles OF cooked materials should be Inn
There is still another method OF frying which 70
shaking" process. BY this method small amount
Of butter or some wholesome IA, like olive oil .
other articles TO be cooked tossed with II until
they Drowned.
Omelattes and many other dishes are properly
cooked In this way. There IL no other method Of
frying that is not barbarous. A strong man, living
In a cold country may survive II he takes abundant
exercise diet OF tallow. but individuals who
take moderate degree OF exercise and live In Q
temperate country require only d moderate amount
OF fat. and could not live on such 4 greasy diet.
Less fat is required In summer than In winter.
The butter Of the able and that used in cooking
food supply this need. together with milk and
cream. Most delicate women have "A distaste for
greasy food. This is founded on commons and
that instructive knowledge OF what is good for
them which human beings possess In common with
creatures OF the field and air. This instructive
knowledge Is too often ignored.
In summer ice-cream II made OF cream, supplies
the need Of fats far better than tho fat OF meat.
which well-neanng people often insist upon {
wholesome, necessary article OF food. Desserts OF
cream sauces Of cream and even the unsubstantaj
syllabub all wholesome articles OF food In warm
weather and supply all the fats necessary TO SUM
| mer diet in agreeable. delicate manner.