The San Francisco call., 1897-11-07

and cerise aigrettes.
Never have the imported nets for crowns
been so elaborately bejeweled. They are
in nets of various hues. black and gold
predominating for groundwork. Oce that
| admired is a black net studded with tur-
quoises rninestones and steel. Another
is gold net embroidered fancifuliy in
pearls and iridescent beads. Still another
OF gold-e m bossed net, embroi idered richly
ard heavily in beautiful design. with
pink and white pearls, row of white
| pearls surrounding the large pink ones.
These are only hints of what are displayed
this season in crown material.
Let me give a bit of advice to those who
| contemplate box-plaited backs in your
new skirts. See to it, if you would have
them hang properly and preserve their
shane, that the back breadths have per-
feclly straight centers for the middle of
the plaits, and that on both sides the
edges are gored precisely alike. Should
your back breadths be straight on one
edge and bias on the other. the plaits will
swing askew almost as soon as they have
escaped the restraint of the pressing irons.
Now that skirts are fve-gored, seven
gored, three pieced and circular, every
woman. no matter what her physical &C.
centricties may be, can choose from these
styles one that is adapted 10 her needs, be
she petite or over-tall, proportioneu like
tub or as lacking in curves broom
stick. Skirts must tit their wearers, else
is the desirable effect wholly lost.
Remem Der, too, oh We whose necks are
too full or too slender in outline, TO govern
the cut of your evening gowns accord
ingly. V or a square may render you
idiculous or presen table as the case may
be, so make no fatal mistake with the
scissors, nor let any one influence you by
declaring that you must wear style,
merely because it chances to prevail that
is foe to your appearance. a. an even
ing gathering not long s:nce saw sight
that would make angels weep-a pair of
collar bones like cameIs' humps, fenced
about by square corsagc, whereas they
could have been mercifully enshrined by
V. and nobody the wiser.
If you intend to buy furs this winter
do not get cheap grades. Have the best
quality-the real thing-or none at ALL
and deal with responsible firms There
are no bargains" in furs. A good article
| always commands its price and is worth
it. For those who can indulge in fancy
shapes with the coming of each season il
is all very we'll to invest IN novelties of
fur but she who buys for utility as we'll as
beauty and who expects 10 wear her fur
garme Mt for some time to come without
alteration should contne her purchase to
the long cape, the shoulder cape or the
coat which measures about twenty-seven
inches. these are always in vogue and do
not suffer the caprices of fashion. The
furrier tells me that women make a ser-
Gus mistake in packing their fur garments
in boxes or laying them away in drawers
or trunks. They are easily wrinkled and
should always be hung up, and, if not
taken care OF at the iurriers when put
aside, snou!d be carefully looked after
every few days, airing. shaking and comb
ing them. In this way they retain their
freshness and beauty. Fur that is wet by
rain should be hung TO dry In a room
without a fire, and when dry gently
beaten into fiutfiness by means or small,
smooth stick.
A dinner gown for one of our brunette
matrons in society is a very rich affair OF
yellow faille trimmed with orange velvet
and delicate gold and white EN- broidery.
The girdle is of velvet and faille, tue
sleeves of jeweled net. the square bodice
frjlled with the em mbroidery.
Effective for the evening is pale blue
crepe de chine with very full skirt,
trim med on skirt and bodice with rutf1es
OF plated chiffon.
One of the handsomest capss seen at the
opera this week was gray Henrietta
cloth en- prircesse. A full ruching of
black feathers finished each side of the
fronts. The yoke of embroidered white
satin terminated in an EN- broidered stole
and the cape had a feather edge. A
noticeably beautiful wrap was of creamy
cloth, reaching TO the feet, with deep yoke
O. blue velvet with black ostrich neck
ruching. Cream braid finished the hem.
Another wrap of beige cashmere had
woke of cream lace aud was trimmed with
sable. the yoke being outlined with
ieweled ribbon trimming, heading q lace
ruffie.
The opera without its complem ent
of gowning would be like heaven with the
seraphs left out. DOROTHY QUILL.