The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-04-18

most impressive group of mountains. and no
ono who sees IL in q clear sunrise will con-
denim the early Greeks far making II the sre-
clAl abode of their divinities. Perhaps the
| VI Ssian Olympus. which risvs above The Turkish
city of Brussa. Is RrandeT. and certainly II 10
some thousands Of feet higher; but IL lacks the
majesty and variety Of its Thracian compeer.
We reached Salonica at about noon. and mad
ample time TO drive about the city during the
stay Of the ship. Its appearance IL very gay
and cheerful. considering the amount Of his
tory that attaches TO II. Hero Xerxes had his
camp on his way to ovarwhelm Greece; here
Cassnnder. brother-in-law of Alexander the
Great, gave TO the unconauered town the name
OF his wife. Thessalonica; here Cicero lived
in exile: here was the Church Of the Thessaloni-
ans TO which Saint Paul addressed two Of tho
lost interesting among his e~pistles. The place
has now some 10000 inhabitants. 1t has q
considerable extension along the water front.
and II reaches up the long slope of Mount Kor-
tiarh. quite far inland. l had always heard
that II was rather dirty and Gisroputahle. but
we found IL cheerful and reasonably clean In
the beautiful sunshine Of that lovely spring day.
Among the people In the bustlinR streets tho
European element seemed TO predominate. and
I could not discover that the Turkish owner
ship gave to the city any special difference nj
physioenomy compared with the more pro-
Rressivo towns of Greece.
Our next stopping place was to be.Constanti-
nople. and carly in our stay at Salonica the
Captain told mo that two Turkish domestic
establishments. ono OF them belonging TO q
Pasha, were coming on board rs passengers
Tor that metropolis. Presently the Pasha
appeared, In q high hat and frock coat.
altogether a European-looking Rentleman;
and with him. arrived his ladies. one OF
them u handsome m:ddle-aRed woman.
unveiled, looking like an Itslian. with bright
black eyes and pleasant bearing. She WAS
followed by three others in semi-European
costume all wearing the yashmak or Turkish
veil. which leaves the forehead and eyes I'M
covered. and hides the rest of the features.
But what excited my interest particularly was
the chief Of the household. the principal
eunuch evidently an Important parsonage. quito
stout and with q noble air of dignity, yet
good -natured and friendly looking. For tho
two harems OF our two distinguished passengers
the CAPTAIN opened separate eangways near the
ruddor-post aft, disclosing suites Of cabins
that we had not before suspected. AZ soon as
the ship had started the new inmates with
drew to their quarters. and were.seen no more
until we were In C~onstantinople.
An interesting incident In our passage from
W VOC - pouoO " ~ HOUSE
visitation in the Dardanelles. which this time
occupied perhaps two hours. 1t was varied By
the arrival OF the habitual sboatload of fam
tastic pottery. which is apparently made some
where In that neighoorhood, and II not
only fantastic. but ugly. Yet everybody buys
q specimen and carries II homo as:evideuce of
having been there. There Is some display OF
military life at the Dardanelles, both on the Ash.
alto and European sides: but whether the snowy
forts arc really formidable we could not tell,
and: did not care much. It was far moro en-
gazing to the mind to gaze over the broad
plain that lies toward tho site If ancient Troy,
and to imagine the ships and the fighters and
the scenes that were gathered there In the days
of Achilles and ARamemnon.
We reached Constantinople the next morn
ing. and. instead OF heing anchored out in the
middle Of the harbor, as had happened to us
on former visits. we saw our ship tied to the
wharf and were able TO walk ashore down An
ordinary G&ngway. We had the day before CO,
aud put It In FIRST by . visit TO tho Bazaar.
which we found sadly modernized. The roof.
which used to extend over the narrow and
crooked passage ways which ramify through IL
like streets. was gone. and an air of novelty
and cIoanress had succeeded the dirty and
picturesque antiquity which we had.sesn there
in former times. Our old friends the dealers
in carpets and bric-a A. brac. were still there. how.
ever. and the coffee which they served was
quite as enchanting as ever. Why is It that
Turkish coffee 10 SO much better than all othersp
1t 10 a kind Of potent.alistic and transcendeptaI
preparation that other lands do not know and
very poorly initiate.
From the Bazaar we drove to st. Sophia, the
most noble. most impressive. and most re-
liGious Of religious structures. superior. I think,
in its erect.uDon the soul to every other tenn
pie of worship. 1t is impossible to pass under
its hiKh arches or to cross It's wide :pavements