davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

waists of brown linen, with bolero
jacket fronts set on over full pouching
bosoms. The boleros are a part OF the
shirt, sewed in at the shoulder arm
hole and under arm seams. They do
not extend to the back. and many of
them are daintily decorated with chain
stitch embroidery, done by the machine,
but none the less attractive and poDu-
lar for that.
A hat that will wash is also last
expression of the milliner's genius.
White linen is what it is made of. or
brown linen, if you choose, and the IA
miliar alpine shape is adopted for this
cool and light head gear, than i'm both
brim and crown is only made in two
thicknesses of linen, stitched elaborate
ly 1t is a positive fact that when the
white linen hat grows soiled it can be
given to the laundress, who may soap,
scrub, starch and iron it into an ar
pearance of immaculate newness. The
brown ones are equally adapted to tub
bings. and later the manufacturers
promise the same make and shape in
blue and pink linen
All this is clean and convenient, but
by way of placing variation from the
alpine shape there is a nice hat Just
out, woven in fiat cream-colOred straw.
its crown running up to a perfect cone.
The rather narrow crown iutS out like
that of a sailor, and women who wear
this shape for all outing purposes trim
the frames with a bright plaid silk
handkerchief and one or two stout sill
yer stickDins. The very truth is that
we are growing desperately lazy about
trimming our hats at all, so much do
the manufacturers do to solve the
question of how or what shall be done
All fresh from the factory come straws
with net and tulle brim facings, plait-
ed in by machinery, the Innings for
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

which are intended to strengthen the
muscles of chest, shoulders and arms.
The muscles of the thighs, for in
stance, require more attention than
they are wont to receive. if one would
be possessed of graceful gait. Among
the exercises the following are sug-
gested:
No. l. Place the back toward the ap-
phance, and the foot in the loop made
by tying both handles together. Then
move the foot backward and forward.
This will exercise the muscles on the
front of the thigh.
No. ,. Tie the handles together and
place one leg outward until it is at
right angles with the other; then bring
it down over the other and return.
This motion is for the benefit of the
inner side of the thigh and the muscles
of the calf
No. 3. Stand facing the appliance.
gTasDing the blocks with the hands;
put all the weight on one foot and ex-
tend the other d long step diagonally
forward, touching the toe to the
ground Nov. partially transfer the
weight to the forward leg, at the same
time bend that knee as much as posi-
BILE, and raise the heel high from the
ground, keeping the whole of the back
foot on the ground until this position
Of the bent knee and the raised heel
Of the forward leg is firmly taken
Then gradually pull all but the toe Of
the back foot from the ground, while
pressing down fOrcibly. as if overcOm-
ing a strong resistance with the for
ward leg. The outward knee straight
ems, the whole foot comes to the
ground and the weight is entirely
transferred TO the forward leg during
the movement Slowly transfer the
weight of the back leg. forcibly push
ing that foot to the ground as the heel
of the forward foot rises. Repeat these
movements several times, after which
alternately bend the knees and rise on
the balls of the feet rapidly, six or
eight times. Do not strain or push with
the body; il must be easily maintained,
erect and free from tension. Do not
work the arms; the legs only should
be energiZed.
One cannot practice these exercises
which strengthen the muscles Of the
thighs too often if a good poise and
gait is desired. The muscles should do
the greatest work in walking, and in
order to work well they must be exer-
cised and strengthened, that there may
be a free action at the hip joints.
There are several exercises which can
be taken without any appliance, which
are excellent for thigh muscles. One
is to stand erect on slight elevation
from the ground. with the weight on
one leg. Relax the other leg, and with
the power from the thigh first swing
the relaxed leg forward and backward;
then swing it in a circle around the
strong leg.
During these swinging leg movements
keep a steady poise; the body from the
hips upward must be quite motionless.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
PEBEKAH UNDERWOOD.
HOW DISHES GOT TIER NAMES.
The sandwich is called for the earl of

The sandwich is called for the earl OF
Sandwich
Mulligatawney is from an East In
dia word, meaning pepper water.
Waffle is from wafel, a word of Teu-
tonic origin, meaning hOneycomb.
Hominy is from auhuminea, the
North American Indian word for
parched corn.
Gooseberry fool is a corruption Of
gooseberry foule, milled or pressed
goOseberries.
Forcemeat is a corruption OF farce
meat, from the French farce, sruft1ng,
l. e, meat for stuffing.
Blanc-mange means literally white
food, hence chocolate blanc-mange is
something of a nlisnOmer-
Succotash is a dish borrowed from
the Narragansett Indians and called by
them m'sick-quatash-
Charlotte is a corruption of the old
English word charlyte, which means q
dish of custard, and chocolate russo Is
Russian charlotte.
Gumbo is simply Okra- soup, gunbo
being the name by which oSra is often
known in the south. Chicken sumbo
is a soup of oBra and chicken
Macaroni is taken from a Greek deri-
walton, which means the blessed
dead" in allusion to the ancient Gus
tom Of eating it at feasts for the dead
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
Reducing the eirth of the Hips.

A chest weight can be made easily at
home at an outside cost of say %
cents. Find two pieces of wood and
shape them TO fit the hand: around
each of them tie stout piece of Irvine
about one yard long; then take six rub
bel. bands, each one inch wide, and by
means of slip knots secure three to-
gether; fasten two screw hooks, one a
little above the floor and the other
above the head. You can then slip the
ends of the two sets of rubbers over
them, and prestol your improvised
chest weight is ready to use, and it will
do as good service as one that cost sew
eral dollars.
Having set up the chest weight
there are any number of exercises for
which it can be utilized, besides those
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

the neck finish and the skirts are but
toned nearly to the hem. Back and
front the easy box cut is used. for on
drawing up to a door in a trap the
wearer merely rises, hastily detaches
the buttons and leaves the dust ulster
on the vehicles seat. While she steps
forth Immaculate in her dainty organ
die: OF. just before the train rushes
into the station that marks her des-
tination. she shakes off the silken
chrysahs, folds il to fit exactly into a
tiny silk bag made to contain it, and.
escaping a threshing at the hands OF
the parlor car porter, energies from
the coach as crisp and clean as when
she set out.
ORNAMENTAL WRAPS.
But all these are summer wraps for
utility. Those for ornament, purely, de-
serve a chapter to themselves It is
safe to say they are more bizarre and
rich in ornament than ever before.
This is because there are really only
two Shapes adopted, and in the effort
TO arrive at individuality the cape and
holero have cut wonderful capers.
Their gymnastics are performed from
the waist line up for to let either fall
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

OF color. 1t is noticeable that only a
lew OF the spangied fans are painted,
while, for daylight use. the smart thing
Is small fan. OF ivory. sticks, mount
ed with curious thin bright japanese
six painted in japanese water-coIors.
Little girls fall heir TO the lately
imported straw fans from Japan. fan
cifuily painted in scenes from eastern
nurseries, schools, etc. Not as clever
an idea on the part of mothers Is that
OF putting their short skirted daughters
INTO bright plaid stockings and pointed
toed shoes. This last fashion is a pity,
as American children. in spite of their
shortcomings. are usually the most SEN
sibly and gracefully dressed little pso-
pie of any nation Witness for exam
pie the nice suit in the sketch. of oak
green canvas cloth. trimmed with frills
OF shot green silk in lighter shade, the
waist opening at the neck to show a
yoke of cream-colored Irish lace
NINA FITCH.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

mine will stripe a black muslin cape.
for example, and frankly bright grass
green taffeta one, yelled in white lace.
has an edging scarce a fourth of an
inch wide of sable that embellishes
every pert little flounce that falls over
the shoulders. And after all, whv
should this not be? for fur is surely
decorative. and so used there is no heat
in it. One of the prettiest small shoul-
der wraps. and a serviceable one, too.
as those things go. was worn by a
maid of honor at a wedding. Her gown
was white dotted Swiss over light blue
silk; her hat burnt straw, wreathed
in two shades of cornflowers. and her
cape of cornflower blue MORE benga-
line, lined with pale blue silk. and
bearing a border and falling collar of
chinchilla.
If some of these capes descend so far
as the waist line. the majority reach
only to the elbows. as the black one,
for instance. in the Illustration. The
model for this sketch was a smart
mourning wrap. The foundation light.
weight black silk. its yoke of dull JET
beads. below which f1uffed out ruffle
after ruffie of finely plated black silk
muslin. Full, beautiful, black ostrich
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

The sketch of a new bolero gives
some idea of how far this little gar
ment is being distorted from its orig
inal outlines. However. the original of
the sober black and white as it appears
on paper. is a bijou of a wrap. The
foundation is black satin, on which,
back and front, are worked out grace
full arabesques in gold and steel and
jet beads. The epaulettes and high
neck ruff are of cherry red silk mus
lin. There is nothing even to be
winked at in the combination of colors
or goods. On the backs of women,
whose taste IS regarded as a standard.
one sees little EtOn coats of white silk,
slit UP to the shoulder blades behind,
edged with a lovely fringe of ivory
beads and the sleeves of dandelion
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
Commercial Use of Garnets.

Chicago Times-Herald: THE average
man. 1 presume, imagines that garnets
are used in our line of business exclu-
sively." remarked a State street jeweler
the other day. whereas. ir fact. the jew
net industry.
About 1900 tons of garnets are used
every year in this country for making
sandpaper. very small portion of the
garnets have any value TO the lapidary.
and the best are only semi-preciops
stones. The costliest come from the Adj
rondaek regions and from Delaware
county. PENNSYLVANIA. Up in Alaska
near the town of Wrangel, is a veritable
garnet mountain, and corporation has
recently been organized to develop it.
The Alaska garnets are said to be un-
usually fine.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

has been made in white piumes. silk
muslin ana steel beading and alongside
lay a quaint carriage cape of more
stable materIal-pale gray cloth. beaded
in steel, lined with white and bearing
about its edge a fine plating of white
silk. This was the ground plan. so to
speak. on which fell wide collar that
at distance seemed made of a re-
markable new fur In reality it was
entirely covered with numberless half
inch deep plaitings of white silk mus
lin, set close together and standing
straight up.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
sWEETENING THE BREATH.
Simple Devices For Filling the Mouth
With a Vague Yet Delicious Per-
fuuie.

The charm of an agreeable breath
consists in the fact that there is Moth
ing noticeable about it, only somehow
there is always a subtle. clean fra
GRANGE in the atmosphere surrounding
the person who pays due attention to
the inward as well as the outward man.
There is nothing that so nearly sug-
gests this atmosphere as the delightful
days tramp in the country one sinks to
sleep under grass bleached sheets, with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
Characteristic.

Cleveland Plain Dealer: Don't you
think Mrs. ClOSefists gown is quite too
lowe"
Eyes, but it's characteristics. She's too
economical, you know, to encourage any
waste
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

New York, June, 1S97.-Certainly the
very refinement of extravaganza is the
Indulgence of a taste for those airy,
fairy. exquisite, impractical yet unde-
niably necessary and becoming details
of dress called summer wraps. Their
excuse for being is to be beautiful and
TO beautify, not TO protect one against
dust, rain, heat or cold. Speaking
from the practical side and the eco
nOmical side, too. q set of summer wraps
should properly. consist of a rain coat
or park coat, dust ulster, a service
able tweed cape and a roadster coat of
covert cloth. a park coat is requisite
as a shield in bad weather, for this
garment is a vast Improvement on all
the summer rain protectors yet brought
out. 1t is in reality a well-cut, long
coat, either of porous rain proof tweed,
or, better still, waterproof silk It is
box cut back and front with coachman
sleeves, has n collar to turn M we'll
around the neck, and its ample outside
pockets have buttoned flaps. The adj
vantage of its full skirts and ample
arm bags is that it affords a free cir
culati0n Of air inside. which prevents
the we4rer from overheating. as in a
heavy macintosh. and provides a per-
feet rain coat for driving or riding
horse or a wheel.
SILK DUST CLOAKS.
The very striking ones in waterproof
silk, are bright prussian blue outside
and crimson within, having every Re
detachable hoods, buttoning one be-,w
the collar. and their front buttCas
made. of big disks of smoked pearl.
This wrap is wholly an evolution of
ultra modern science, as is the excel
lent buster referred to. COrnfower
blue taffeta silk is the dust listers
proper material. though women, who
are. by the way, wearing them extern
sively this summer. have what they
call carriage ulsters, made up in rich
tones Of dahlia, golden brown and
1lorentine red silk CT linen. Mohair is
another goods individuals adapt TO
this purpose, but mohair and alpaca
are hot, even if they are dustproOf
By a carriage ulster is also meant a
travelling ulster; for railway travelling
exclusively. the big wraps being so
artfully made as TO afford perfect pro-
lection TO ones smart travelling suit.
lis bishop sleeves button in close at the
wrist. a silk muslin plated ruff gives
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
We'll Named.

Cleveland Plain Dealer: How would
you like this frieZe. Mrs Newbond2"
Freeze. Ell? 1 should think as much,
with that row of naked babies sittin' on
them damp Clouds
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
WASHABLE HATS.

So much for the CONNECTIONS and van
tiles Now for the realities of dress.
This week there are some novel shirt
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
NOVELTIES IN CAPEs.

But if the boleros are remarkable, the
new capes go them one better, and with
the unreasoning but none the less at
tractive coquetry their makes contrive
they shall express. numbers are
wrought from liberty silk, silk muslin
lace and net. with a trimming of fur
Only the very narrowest lines of err
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
FINE SUMNER WRAPS
Charming Little Capes, Bo,eros
and Silk Dust Goats For
Warm Weather.
ALPINES THAT MAY BE WASHED
EVERY WEEK.

There Are Some Wonderful Combina-
tons in Both Long and Short
Wraps This Season, in Which
Cherry Muslin and Changeable
Silks Are Greatly in Evidence.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
A BOLERO WRAP.

below the hip is melancholy error of
taste indeed
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27
A TEETHING BABY.

Advice Given by the Head Nurse of
the Babies Ward of a Great New
York Hospital as to the Proper
Care of a Delicate Child During
Hot Weather.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-06-27

yellow silk muslin in plated frflls that
stretch their wings ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
in the true sense they are not, just
epaulettes, and it is very proper to
wear as tall and snowy ruff collar
behind the ears as possible. This is
true not only of wraps, but gowns as
well. for all occasions and on evening
dresses stiffened lace medici collars,
larger far than ever seen before, spring
out about the shoulders-woman who
cannot afford the lace wear lovely ones
of plated black or white tulle.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29

Third Race-Mile handicap anna
teur. First heat: Fred. Damon,
Joseph Smith, w. Chiffon, w. Lyle,
H. Ludloff, Charles Murray. Second
heat: T. V. King, Arthur GiIes, X.
B. Porter, Nigel Jackson, H. E.
Walker, G.. r. tombstone.
Fourth Race-Two mile handicap,
professional. First heat: John
sylvia, Allan Jones, George Martin,
George Angus. Second heat: D.
E. Whit nan, George Sharrick, Sam
johnson, D. G.. Sylvester.
Fifth STANDARDIZATION one. third
mile. Amateur, flying start Arthur
Giles paced by Damon and Porter,
In the evening handicap races the
position of the men will depend
upon their finish in the afternoon
races.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
The School Board.

Minister Cooper presided over
yesterdays meeting OF the Commits
sioners OF Education.
In the matter of Miss Atkinson's
application for a life certificate it
was decided to issue first class life
certificates to teachers in primary
grades who have been in the service
for ten years and whose average in
the examih ations has been 80 per
cent.
1t was also decided to procure a.
drawing teacher for Honolulu
schools in town instead OF sending
to the East for one.
The Inspector-G Generals PROPOSE
ton to have three examinations a
year was defeated and Eastertide
selected as the date for the annual
examinations.
1t was reported by Secretary
Gibson that there are As pupils in
the Normal School, an increase Of
20 over last year and that an assist
ant would be necessary in short
time. The matter OF an additional
room for the Normal School was
discussed but action was deferred.
An application from the secretary
of the Dramatic Club OF Waialua
for the use of the school house at
that point for an entertainment was
denied
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
FRIDAY, OCT. 30, 1897.
sHoUL DER TO SHOULDER.

The annexationists in Hawaii are
getting more and more desperate as
they see the change of sentiment in
the United States. They have, as a
last resource, invented some wonder
full yarns about a "split" in the
camp of the anti annexationists, and
they prophecy in an off-handed way
that the Hawaiians will shortly
come out as full hedged annexation
lists having found out the treacher-
Gus duplicity Of their "white" friends
and ympsthizers.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
Timely Topics.
Honolulu, Oct. 99, 1897
SUGAR AND RICE

and all that's nice require
cultivation. This being the
season to prepare to cultivate,
we are prepared to cultivate
closer relations with our cul-
tivating friends. To this end
we reintroduce to them last
seasons favorite, the most
beautiful and perfect plow
ever brought here, the Avery
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29

Again the wish is father to the
thought. There has not been and
there is not the slightest 9split"
among the people who stand shoul-
der to shoulder in their struggle to
preserve the autonomy OF Hawaii
and defend their standing as an in
dependent nation against the in
famous encroachm OF nnscrupu-
lous adventurers. No member of
the great Hawaiian societies has for
moment wavered in his allegiance
to the declared patriotic principles
Of the political org anizations. Diff
ference of opinion may have occurred
in regard to the advisability OF send
ing commission to Washington, or
in regard to the choice Of delegates.
All political parties meet with fric-
ton in matters of management and
details; the great principles, which
are the cause OF the existence of po-
litical organizations are not affected
on account OF petty differences OF
opinion in regard to minor points.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
The oyclomere velodrome.

In addition to the greenhorn races
the following entries have been
made for to-morrow's events at
Cyclomere Park. All marvel at the
scenic views from the grand stand
on fine afternoon, aud this is es-
pecially the opportunity Tor ladies
and children and their budding
matinee escorts:
First Race, (Afternoon)-One mile
novice, open. Nigel Jackson, G. r
Johnstone, T. Treadway, NJ. S. De-
pont, FL. Ludloff.
Second Race-One mile profess
sional handicap. First heat: George
Martin, rs yards; Allen Jones,
scratch; D. E. Whitman, rs yards;
D. G.. Sylvester, 125 yards. Second
heat: John Sylvia, rs yards; Geo.
Sharrick, scratch; Sam johnson, 100
yards; George Angus, 100 yards.
Third Race--Mile open for boys:
Ned Ora 5be, Joe Santos, F. Williams,
Joe Botelho.
Fourth Race-Two mile bandi-
cap for amateurs: Fred Damon,
scratch; T. v. King, scratch; Arthur
Giles, 100 yards; Fl. E. Walker, 100
yards.
Fifth Race-Mile open for green
horns, as published in yesterdays
INDEPENDENT.
Sixth Race -Half-mile handicap
for amateurs. First heat: Fred.
Damon and Willie Chiffon, scratch /;
K. B, Porter, 35 yards; Charles Muir
ray, 25 yards. Second heat: T. V.
King, scratch; Arthur Giles, 25
yards; Fl. E. Walker, 25 yards.
EVENING RACES.
First Race-Mile open. HI. G..
Ubelhoar, G. w. Pfaaf, G.. Rec YES,
A. T. Phillips, B F. Mckay, g. Bib
bat, A. Rutherford (from the York
town.; Banhart, Hayse, Childs,
Scott, (from the Wheeling); Babbin,
Dittin, Decotey Wilson, Madden,
Cbappel, Farrer Ramsay, (from the
Bennington).
Second -One-third of mile
open, professional. First heat: Geo.
Martin, Allan Jones, d. E. Whitman,
George Angus. Second heat: Geo.
Sharrick, John Sylvia, Sam johnson,
D. G. Sylvester.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
LANDS FOR SALE.

I 30 Acres of Land, in three piece, at
i Waialua, Molokai. Good taro and
pasture land. S400.
q 20 Acres of Land at Nahiku, Koolau,
4 Maui. few yards from the harbor Of
Honolulu-iki. A good home for farmer
to raise fruit trees, such as lines. oranges,
coffee, etc. Plenty of water. Only 5000.
Apply to r, w. WILCOX,
,705 IN Konia Street.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
ADVANCE

double furrow, roller Coulter
plow. 1t has been tried,
tested and approved. Then
there is the PERFECT
double mould board plows in
three sizes, II, IA and l6
inch burrows and the Perfect
breaker plow in the same
sizes.
We have also a large as
sortment of Rice plows, in
sizes ranging from a 6-inch
to 15-inch cut, also Cultiva-
tors, Harruws, and . fullline of
AVERY'S SUGAR LAND
IMPLEMENTS, including
stubble diggers, cultivators,
fertilizer distribut ors, etc, etc.
Now they are all practical
workers and never fail to give
satisfaction.
Call or correspond with
Tbs Hawaiian Hardware Co., La
26S Fort STREET,
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29

The reasons of the Hawaiians aud
their friends to oppose annexation
may be Sentimental" only, they are
good enough, however, to support
the unsurmountable barriers which
now and always will stand between
annexation and the People OF Ha-
waii,
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29
Married

MoCANDLEss- s-PAAKAuLA = In this
city, last Sunday, Oct. "a, 1897, by
the Rev. j. Waismau, E. j. McCand-
less to Miss Esthea l.. Paakaula.
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1897-10-29

White Cotton, full yard wide, l6
yards for 81 at N. S. Sachs.