The morning times., 1897-01-17

says of the fashionable skirts there. They
have to be fitted, she says, more care
fully than ever-''fancyr'-a must stand
out W ell at the back, although they are not
nearly SO full at the sides or front, and
it appears that there are many cunning
devises to secure this much desired re
suit.
Very flexible steels find place at the
hem of the skirts, and sometimes about
quarter of yard below the waist. In
deed, wire and steel have many unaccus
toned uses now. Not only are most Of the
outstanding collars wired, and a great deal
OF the lace and many of the bows, but not
few Of the silk bolero jackets are thus
treated. Cording has come back to Us
once again, and great many of the new
est skirts have three cordings on the hips,
which makes them set very fiat below the
waist, and stand out gracefully beyond.
Perhaps the most expensive and import
ant part OF dress in Paris this season is the
opera cloaks.
I'VE have had for some time says our
correspondent, "a reproduction of the We
that is passing away a s far as the high
fashion is concerned. The newest, though
they reach from the neck To the feet in an
unbroken line, and are wide at the hem,
are cut most carefully to the figure, retain
ing ali the grace and style which good
carriage entails, the heavy folds and box
pleatings are attached To yokes, which were
in favorin the middle ages. The redundancy
OF ornament, the masses of lace and fur
introduced upon them, have given place in
the newest make to light but graceful en-
broidery, carried down in front. also under
the arms and down the center of the
flowing Watteau. which starts between
the shoulders in point instead of a thick
box x-pIeat, and it is SO contrived that il
blends into the material and does not stand
out from il too boldly TO detract from the
beauty OF the dominant fabric, which is gen
orally the softcst Of moires, lined with some
color that asserts itself either in the front
or through its outer covering. All the col
lars are high, but they are filled in with
soft bouillonnes: this is most becoming TO
the chin and neck.
The undoubted good taste displayed in
me OF an innovation which is gaining foot
hold in New York and for which tremble.
The fronts and backs of many of the fash
ionable dresses seen are entirely different
For instance, a black satin-the front to
the waist and skirt handsomely covered
with diamonds, while the back oT both
skirt and bodice is pink satin.
/ have been surprised to note how SPAN
giles and tinsels have kept their hold ON
the students OF dress. Verify some of us
especially the young women-look as if
one Were prepared for entry into the circus
ring who's we are bedecked in our glowing
colOrs and glittering gems. The hollow
spangle' is now all the rage 1t is, OF
course, intended for ball or evening dresses
but between ourselves | have seen one or
two OF the -Four Hundred wearing the little
variety on the street.
Tile bah spangle is placed in the center
Of a large cabuchon, over an ordinary
spangle, thus redoubling its brilhancy. a
young gentleman, describing tile effect to
me the other day, said that from his point
of view the hollow spangle made a woman
look like searchlight, but one cannot ac-
count for mans taste, though il is not
wise to say too much against them in
public.
/ nave very little that is new from Lon
don. Several Of my friends tell me that
everything there is much the same. and one
Of nay correspondents limited something
about the whole season being very dull
I'VE women she says, ARE debarrcd
Of lots OF amusement enjoyed by our Ameri-
can sisters i'm many Instances IscauS,, v-a
cannot adopt befitting costume. 1t is so
awful here, dear, To be considered for
ward. The young people have to wait for
their elders to take the lead, and so we are
always behind
we have some hope OF fun, however. i'm
the spread or Hockey" The sport has
been taken upbythe school girls, and every
one expects It viii meet with general adop-
ton, though suppose we will have TO play Y
1t in the same beastiy old long skirts
Ny London friend tells me- that the
greatest attention is being paid there to
stockings and Garters. Hitherto these
have been OF the plaincst description. but
now ] am informed tina 10 b. of the stylish
IL Is necessary 10 wear the most fancy
kind of stockings. Soma Of them are made
OF shot silk, and in every case the garters
are covered with sils, of the same color
as the hosiery.
In this country great attention has al
ways been given TO hosiery, and the latest
designs this season are really most be-
wildering, especially in price. New
York friend of mine a few days a go bought
pair of white silk stockings, with real
lace insertion, beautifully arranged, and
this is entreZ-nouS, they cost her $50.
ETINCELLE.