New-York tribune., 1897-01-31
| H&555;(E=7 fgE5 T4LK5.
HOMEMADE UNDERWEAR.

| The days of mdwlnter and the long tcdllm Of
Lent are utilized by many women as a season fol
renewing their stores of dainty cotton underwear
| and for making the simple cotton frocks such as
| an ordinary seamstrcss readily fix ND at home
II Is still Tooted question whether IL IS better
10 purchase the convenient and inexpensive goods
OF the shops return to the old fashion OF making
| up underwear at home Where ones time 'hangs
| heavy on ones hands," ii certainly paws TO en-
| poy 1t in this way. Garments made of shrunken
muslin and sewed with the best OF cotton thread
| outwear any that are shopmade. Refined women
| OF to-day do not wear elaboratey tucked and
frilled undergarments, but select the simplest pat
terms. and it Is very difficult to get these in the
shops except among displays of expensive French
underwear.
This change In taste and fashion has materially
reduced the labor of making underwear. The old
fashioned yoke nighgown Is virtually a thing Of
the past. Women OF dainty taste prefer a gar
ment made of fine carnbric or nainsook. trimmed
with lace and GU: In tho ful-sack style Of
French underwear. This has the full French
sleeve often reaching only TO the elbow Whether
the garment is high at the throat or turns back
In wide. picturesque collar, 1t is simple In its
general cut and outlines. dependent for its grace
and daintiness on the fine material Of which II is
made and the fine needlework or lace with which
II Is trimmed.
Chemises corset covers are usuallv exc.ad
ingly simple in cut. The favorte design for n
chemise Is still without sleeves, and the yoke Is
reduced TO narrow band of beading I'm which q
ribbon Is run TO keep the garment snugly around
the shoulders. Sometimes a little bouffant piece OF
linen canbric and lace plastron OF needle
work IL inserted in front. Drawers are quite
broad at the leg. and the trimmings are frequently
carried up three or four inches. strong cambria
or muslin should be chosen for ths purpose. For
the sake OF wear. the drawers should be short
enough 10 escape the knee when the wearer Is
sitting. -
These garments have very little machine work on
mem though The seams and bands should be stitched
by machine, for the sake of strength.
\ great many young women who cannot afford 70
puy the French underwear of the shops prepare
their own garments from samples which they pur-
chase Tor the purpose. In these days simple fash
IONS the task is a comparatively light one IL Is
better TO shrink all cloth by wettne Ii first in boil
ing ana tnen IN cold water and allowing it to dry
outdoors After Ii is dry sprinkle and iron IT, For
Dacks OF nightgowns may be torn on before they
are shrunk IL is much easier handle these than
an entire piece OF muslin. Allow about two inches
lor Shrinking DO not cut out the gown merely tear
OH tne lengths If there Is much feather-stchIng !
used IL Is good plan to shrink thread for this
Sc No spool cotton for this purpose The No 20 J
ana NO 80 cotton about tine proper thread for 4
sewing ordinary muslin. The No. &c cotton is used |
generally In making buttonhoes on mems shirts |
collars ana other linen. 1t is also the right number
lot buttonholes on women's underwear When fine |
hansook. dnity and sheer cambrlcs are used for |
much finer cotton than those
named snohid De chosen. One cannot always fol-
low the Old rule and match the cotton TO the thread