New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-19
THE RUSSIAN CAPITAL.
yAsTNESs AND EMPTINESS OF ST. Pc
TERSRURG-THE HERMITAGE AND
THE WINTER PALACE-1NSCPER-
ABLE DIFFICULTIES OF AN
UNPICTURESQUE SITE.

ABLE DIFFICULTIES OF AN
UNPICTURESQUE SITE.
St Petersburg August 81.
An indehnable sense Of vastness is the char
icteristic feature Of the Russian capital Peter
he Great planned city for one OF the fortN
stands OF the marshy delta Of the Neva, and
quilt fortress on a smaller island to command
:. Basil Island is the commercial quarter
With the custom house and exchange opposite
he fortress. and with long line Of granite and
gtucco structures-the Academy of Sciences. the
University the Academy Of Art the Military
School. the School Of Marine Cadets and the
School OF Mines-facing the river on a massive
stone quay. Only one OF these huge buildings
he School OF Marine Cadets-remains from the
line OF Peter the Great. It was the palace OF
his favorite Minister. Mentchikoff. and was
marvel OF splendor in old ST. Petersburg two
centuries ago The forty islands behind the
'ortress have been converted into struggling
suburbs and parks dotted over with villas and
cottages 10 the shores OF the Gulf Of Finland
an immense district with an endless network OF
good roads and shady alleys, where wealth and
fashion disport themselves during the summer
Beyond the fortress 10 the east is the popuious
quarter OF Viborg. with its arsenals. barracks
railway stations and factories-the manufactur-
ing centre OF the capital Beyond the NeVa, 10
the south in one OrDTOkeN ItNt., Win a. I44i' ~
nalaces along the outer quay. IS the Great Side
Of St Petersburg, pierced by four semi-circular
canals. and with broad streets radiating mile
upon mile from the Admiralty. until they end in
remote suburbs In magnitude and endless COM
nlnxIfv II Is an imperial capital worthy Of all
the Russias.
To this sense OF vastness is added a singular
impression OF emptiness. London is human
universe. with a System Of self-centred worlds
swarming with population and throbbing with
vital energy In ST. Petersburg everything is or
q tremendous scale but whatever may be the
record OF the census. the city seems TO be only
half populated. The arms Of the Neva are al
most as broad as the fjords Of Stockholm. so
that there are few bridges: the cathedrals and
ralaces have open ground around them on every
SIDE; the thoroughfares are broad and the
SQUARES are spacious: and wherever one may be-
Ear and away opens vista % roof lines and
s,rargllng streets. All these vast spaces seem 70
he teuantless on the river there is only slug
gish movement Of traffic; the quays and bridges
are without signs OF hustle and activity; the put
,ic SQUARES are empty. and the streets at a.
hours appear deserted. Even the NevsM Pros
rect. the chief thoroughfare OF the town, IS sin
gulr-ly quiet and empty 81. Petersburg has
been built upon 80 grand a scale that generations
must pass before the streets can present the SPEC
a
and energy In this respect. too. Il is represen-
tative capital for empire Of vast territorial
area, every section OF which is thinly populated
A CAPITAL. WITHOUT ANIMATION.
Ny glimpse. It is true s. OF St Petersburg in
midsummer when the weil-to-do classes have
taken refuge IN the islands. and when there are
few private Carriages trund..ng In the roadways
There is another S. Petersburg. which l have
.gr,~. III.
glare q summer heat. Il is tho capital in De
ceruber and January. when there II barely more
than seven hours OF day, - and the icebound
%eya II crowded high - and market. nd
the xevsN Prospect IL blocked with sledges and
estlr vi,h gayety. when bonHres are lighted IN
froft of great houses where guests are enter
talrot AZ lanrucf- and balls. and when impres-
,lye ceremonies Ike The bencdicon Of the waters
a. Eptphany draw immenfe thrones 20 the Jor-
dan Temple. opposite The Winter Palace. That
s., Petersburg In the height Of the winter season
n Ear more brilliant capital than II = In Au-
gust when the sOmbrc grays and pale yeliows
ma pfus seem 70 De almost coloress In the rich
ga!sts @, vivid sunlight can well believe; brt
IMAGINATION falls FOR filing these arid squares
and endless thoroughfareg with the Joyous move
roent and anlr-tion y; Partisan or Viennese
crowd ST. Petersburg NUT be az all times
an empty and sombre capital The spaces are
roo vas, % be adequately occupied by the popu'
lace TIE Russian character is TOO deeply hinged
with melancholy end seriousness to admit of pro-
ionged periods q; reasurable excitement ana
hghf-hearied gayety.
What S. Petersburg lacks az an imperial capl-
tsi Is ar air O; distinction and refine nent one
may admire the inezhaustlbie resources u cour-
age. patience ara labor required for building a
grsst city In swamp delta whore every great
structure needs q costly foundation Of pies. and
where there IL a constant danger % inundaiion
from rger or gglf J. - not Without reason that
TIE SeYa Is annually Diessed ln The most solemn
eeremoniaiz o; the Russian Church. or That vigil
saes IL never relaxed BY the watcnmen In the
circular towers o. tn islands and On the upper
banks Of the figef. The %eya has remained for
VIC centuries source ~ terror, win th' rlSk1
VI breakup u the fec H. The spring or ~ a
H'shsi in The autumn when westerly WING u
ss'hs'ianeousy setting bsck high water from
ps "hf Peter the Great chose an nsaniiary
''f On tpcnss soil for his capital. aud al UNI
p"lIfsslae oDf also on account Of the tow level
s hs Successors have continued with more
s'@ishce than success the battle against na-
"fitticeliY ~. Petersburg leaves much
S's'fta admirable as s the nergy with
'"s'aeies apparently inFupcfablc have
-" overcome Ths effect o. the long lines Of
u SS'SFss On the main water front Is mo-