davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
Brick Red.
are.

Strange to say, this color is enjoying a
great vogue IN Paris, and not only man.
ties but dresses as well are 10 be seen in
brick red. 10 be sure, the mautles are
trimmed with narrow strips Of black
cloth, set closely together.
Such garments reach well below the
waist line, and in some cases the collars
arc edged with chinchilla.
Extremely smart are applications of
velvet on fur, and equally so are those of
fur on velvet. One especially mentioned
is a cape of black broad tail, which has an
applique in red velvet around the
shoulders. The collar is cut in success
sion Of points that roll back from the
neck.
In jackets those having long basques
are almost unknown in Paris. Only the
most chic and jaunty have been approved
Of These are almost completely covered
with braiding or with applique. All such
Jackets fit clio ely to the figure, outlining
it as sharply as a riding habit. All have
n 10 collars
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
Bpaiding and Tpplique

Was never before carried to such state
of perfection, for not only are almost
every one of the really handsome capes
and jackets covered with either one or the
other but all the elaborate cloth dresses
are completely covered with either silk or
wool braid, some of which is almost half
an inch wide. Narrow puckered black
ribbon Is used to interlace in the design.
Clever women. skillful with their pen
ellis. have in many instances drawn beau
tiful patterns. by which they have had
the braiding applied on their tailor suits
and know of case where one of our
bright rls created quite an exquisite
model, and from it her tailor suit was
successfully built.
Do avoid the bow design, or any such as
YOU have seen much worn, for it Is far
better taste to invest all your capital in
fine cloth than 10 have ordinary cheap
looking braiding sprawling over your
gown. The braiding 10 which have been
alluding was ali handwork,
The increasing popularity of the cling
ing skirt means that plain cloth, CASH
mere, velvet and velyetecn are TO be the
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
MHRCELLT'S MODES.

At recent wedding where numerous
handsome toilets were to be seen on every
side paratively lew were, in the true
sense OF the word cnic. And what is
chic?'' you ask. well, it is as difficult to
analyze as tact. You must grow into a
com prehen sion OF the word, although 10
be sure some will never understand it.
One authority writes of that "nam less
leaven Of fashion and individuality best
described in the French word chic" Style
is in its essence; more of On emotion than
an apprehension.
One tall, slender matron present either
possesses that nameless leaven, or her
dressmaker does for her gown, although
not of a gorgeous fabric, attracted atton-
tion at once. The skirt was of black
and-white strirei silk. the stripes half an
inca vide. They did not run up and
down, nor round and round; they sim ply
all formed VS.. The skirt was hung ,rop-
erly and the high-necked bodice, of some
soft white fabric, which looked like chit
fon, had across the shoulders two narrow
black k-edged ruffles. Encitcling the slen-
der throat was a velvet crush collar of one
of the new shades of pink. The descrip-
tion sounds very simple and the gown was
in no sense of the word elaborate. but an
artist designed it, for Ieproduction worn
by plump woman would have been sim
ply an abominatlon.
A gown also admired was worn by a
very young woman and was of rosy pink
crepe de chine The skirt lining was per-
iectly free from its silken foundation, and
round the bottom was a handsome ap-
plique of lace of a creamy shade. The
bodice had yoke CT the same, and the
half-length sleeves were softly wrinkled
until they met the small caps in which
the applique again figured.
How often we read that ''to touch per-
fection adress must be more than an arti-
Gle of c!othing-it must be a revelation of
the wearer's ndividuality"-and truly
the modern woman seems to elude ex-
preston.
II possible, black promises to enjoy a
greater vogue this winter than ever be-
fore, and not the least objection is mani
tested to somber garments at weddings
nowadays. OF course, all are relieved
bv touch OF white or some gay color
for my part l always say that if you de-
toilet, carelessly introduce splashes of
color.
Really no task is more truly difficult
than the artistic com binaton of black
with color, but an all black will fire.
quentIy add ten years to ones apparent
age. The handsomest and most becom-
ing black dress worn at this particular
wedding was of rich black silk velvet,
made en- traine, just relieved with the
proper amount of white point lace at the
throat. The wearer could not have found
a costume that would have suited her
better, as every outline, every proportion
mad been carefully studied before the cut
or style had been decided upon.
There was quite an epidemic of light
waists with black silk skirts, and must
onfess l am sadly weary of the conf bina-
ton, even though | admit that for many
it is necessary; but 1 think this style
should only be ndulged in the house
not at a church evening wedding.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14

| leading fabrics for out-of-door toilets,
and although there has been much talk
concerning the careful manipulation and
expert cutting that would be necessary
for the evolution of a successful skirt, thus
far l can only say positively that the
skirts are TO be divested of all stiff lining,
and many are being fitted as closely as
the bodice itself round the hips, and some
of the latest have this part of an entirely
different color from the rest of the skirt
and entirely covered with applique. Slim
ness aud length are fashionable. AS a
result all trim mings are arranged so as to
give this impression. Many cloth skirts
are sill adorned with perpendicular
bands of braiding, but | must say l do
not admire this treatment in the least.
For instance, l had q skirt disfigured in
this manner with four broad lines of fine
black mohair braid. Perhaps had there
been more lines the effect might not
have been so hideOus, but the skirt posi-
lively looked much better and the cloth
(t is true mouse gray) handsomer when
the four lines had been removed.
Experience is expensive. So l give you
the benefit of mine and must say that if
you have fine quality Of cloth you may
obtain the best results, in most cases by
having the skirt and jacket plain, and by
having the vest or bodice as artistically
treated as you please, for the majority of
people cannot afford the really lovely cos
tunes which fashion papers are so fondly
describing. Unless you pay about 5000
or even more in New York the work sell
dom comes up to your expectations, if
you are in the least critical.
The high collars and the long sleeves,
extending almost, if not quite to the
knuckles, are we'll liked. In fact, Lon
don correspondent asserts that "in dresses
and mantles alike there is a feeling for
the Medici fas HONS"
Mixtures, in which blue is com bned
with dark green, and black with green,
are in vogue and are seen in the smart
jackets, concerning which 1 have been
telling you.
Fickle Madame Fashion, in France, has
been frowning upon stripes and plaids,
but now declares that tartans are charm
ing, Just because a green one made by
Felix was pronounced success.
For a considerable time l have not de-
scribed a visiting toilet. but very good is
one of gray rep, the skirt trimmed with
appliques of ecru embroidery in front, the
back cut en- princess, but at the side after
the coat form combined with the boIero;
the bodice is edged with black.feather
trimming carried down the side of the
gown. Flanking the tablier is pleating
of gray corded silk; the front of the
bodice is of gray mousseline de sole, and
Ioo Ill
the semi waistband.
A stuaning brunette has a dress of ex-
tremely handsome crimson cloth with
vest OF white crocodile velvet. Naturally
she will never care 10 wear this costume
downtown. 1t comes from London direct
MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14


WnaN World
pp "a III OGuarnnt eAmerCan n-nd Watch
sG0
% l y a
he may
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
our Society for the Prevention OF Cruelty
to Animals (not birds).

When the Duchess of Teck died the Prince
of Wales was nowhere to be found, and de-
tectives were about TO be sent after him, when
some one suggested Newmarket. A telegram
was imme ediately directed there and reached
him, and. after looking longiugly at the track,
he tore himself away and went TO London. A
private wire has informed me that the Prince
had conversation with Mr.. Vanderbilt i'm
mediately after the young Dukes christening,
and that he busted himself with the million
aires cravat for fully ten minutes. Mr.. Van
derbilt is now well informed on certain mat
tiers relating to personal adornment, and the
Prince was nabled to travel first class 20 New
market and supplement his pocket-money by
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
NI4AT MY LADY
WEAR DURING THE
WINTER SEASON.

the shoulders, the edges trimmed with
fur, the collar Medici.
A word about compilations. / notice a
tendency among our shoppers to lunch
altogether too heartily downtown when
noontime overtakes them and they repair
with healthy appetites to a cafe. Now,
rich heavy lunch will work no end of
damage upon clear. sensitive skin. as
well as make poor complexion hun
dred times worse. Ones hunger may be
just as satisfactorily appeased by light,
nourishing repast easily digested and
really more refreshing.
Avoid pickles, sweets, spices and wines
at midday as Zealously as you would
pestilence. Your complexion ought not
10 be tritied with. and nature will always
revenge herself for abuses received.
Velveteen is q serviceable and alto
gether satisfactory material for teagowns.
In the evening a veveleen chosen with
reference to it's effect 0y gas or incandes-
cent light is quite as handsome as velvet.
1t is also more durable and much moro
adaptable in draping. Green, blue and
purple are in use for daylight wear. while
for evening the shades are exhibited IN
turquoise blue, orange and cerise, bru-
nettes being especially fond of employing
the latter color in evening gowning.
Brown and black, once thought quite
inn pos -lble as com mbination, may be very
stylishly used in gowns for street service.
noticed a neat costume the other day of
leaf-brown poplin with a narrow ruff1e
and fold at the hem of black satin, the en-
tire suit being lined with pale green
taffeta. The blouse corsage was fastened
with black satin belt carefully following
the lines of the waist and terminating in
a large, loose double bow in the middle of
the back. A large black satin collar
which might almost be designated
cape came 10 the shoulders of the lego
mutton sleeves and covered the Dust
This collar was finished in deep Vandyke
points, frilled with black satin and out
lined with Jet spangles. The black satin
stock had 4 ruching OF chiffon.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14
WRECKAGE.
BY HOWARD V. SUTHERLAND.

There are some people in this world
who are only kept from numbering their
fellows by lack of opportunity. They
devote their spare time 10 killing off God g
creatures to the wholesale destruction of
song birds and the harmless animals of
the field The majority of these incipient
assassins appear to write articles for the
country papers, wherein opportunity is
given them to preach their pestilential
theories. One such individual, in week
ly letter to the farmers of San Diego
County, tells how linnets may be made
away with. This EN- bryo Durrant, usurp-
ing the editorial we, says: THE only
thing that we have found that lnnets will
continue to take is poisoned water. We
furnish them with pure water for while
and then put strychnine init. By putting
out pure water again when they become
suspicious and by repeating the poison
they will again be slaughtered by hun
dreds.
1 presume that this gentleman lies
awake O. nights thinking of how linnets
can best be removed in large mum bers and
fearful lest some one may think of poisons
more subtle and tempting than his own.
AS he walks along the quiet highways
and fills his lungs with the pure, soft air
that God grants him, lest his murderous
heart cease its wretched beating, he muses.
on traps and such things The Gagged
bird s lot is not an enviable one, but Provi-
dence works in mysterious manner and
proba bly, knows that its feathered vagrants
are sometimes safer in the city than in
their own fields. l only hope that when
this valiant murderer of linnets lies in
Hades and calls on Father Abraham for
Just one drop of water tc cool his burning
tongue, he will be treated to taste of his
own medicine. The Almighty is apt to
pay more attention to such matters than
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14

judicious betting. The death of the Duchess Is
said TO have caused him considerable annoy
ance.
The Society OF American Assassins had bet
ter attend to r. Pitcher Woodward, the Demo-
crat who betted on Bryan and who traversed
the continent sooner than earn the money
wherewith to pay his debt 1 saw the gentle
man and his little party the other day and
could not help admlring the mule, modest
animal upon whose face was marked an in
telligence superior to that OF his master.
There are too many OF these travelling adver-
tisements of the nations lunacy and the
sooner their ranks are thinned out the better
German silver does not contain o par
ticle of real silver.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-14

hon. Sleeves coat-shaped with cuff, belt
Of the goods. or If preferred, a leather
belt.
Pea-jacket and trousers in navy blue
cloth trimmed with braid makes a natty
suit for the small boy who is not less than
three nor more than ten years old. The
pea-jacket is almost an overcoat. the
fronts being double breasted and the ma
teriaI chinchilla. With it should be worn
trousers OF cashmere, striped MILDLY
suits are made OF serge, trimmed with
hercules braid both wide and narrow, also
machine stitching and buttons.
The plaids CONT pue to come in with
such combinations of criss-cross colorings
as would drive even q 6cotchman wild to
classify according 10 their clan. Nor do
We women have a monopoly as to plaid
ed things. The masculine tie yea, the
masculine suspender, tlaunts itself before
our eyes in all its plaid brightness.
Every woman should noSsess at least
one perfectly made tailor Gown. 1t is the
most satisfactory and useful of invest
ments, and with trifiing additions may be
made to do duty on many different occa-
sions, thus being a positive saving OF
money. A change of hats, gloves. neck
wear and wraps with a tailor gown also
changes the entire appearance of the
toilet, which always preserves its smart
effect because OF its correct lit. The ma
terial in the first place, should be select
ed with specia! reference to the duty it
aI,,1, fOr
or country, for city streets or for travel by
sea or land. for morning calls, shopping
or business pursuits. One will always be
certain of being at least well dressed,
even II not elegantly SO, ii one has good
tailor gown.
OF course, the ultra-fashionable woman
breakfasts, lunches, dimes, calls. drives
shops, receives and otherwise spends her
time n a different gown for each occa-
sion, but the majority OF US are con-
strained to think of utility and expense
when we go a-shopping, and cannot there
fore indulge all OF our mad fancies.
There is tall, slender girl in San Fran
cisco who does not go into fashionable
society for the very good reason that she
is obliged to teach music for livelihood.
She has just one gown in all this world,
but give you my word that she wears it
regalIy. 1t is tailor made and black, but
she carries herself fauItIessly in it, chang
ing c white pique vest from the morning
10 d chiffon front in the evening, and
keeping the skirt Immediately brushed,
Twice has she had the binding at the
hem renewed, and it was made several
months ago, yet nine women out of every
ten who pass her look at her with trace
OF envy that they Ill conceal. 1t is not
always the fine feathers that make the
finest birds, my dears.
From carriage the other day stepped a
woman so handsomely gowned that had l
known I would meet the salty fate of
Lots wife I should have turned to look
second time at her just the same. The
skirt was OF rough goods trimmed with
marten at the foot, the jacket of velvet,
with fur revers. With this was worn a
wrap OF broadclolh, tight at the back,
with jacket fronts, the revers being
Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1897-10-15
800 Reward 500.

The readers Of this paper will be
pleased to learn that there is at least
one dreaded disease that science has
been able to cure in all It's stages,
and that Ii Catarrh. Halls Catarrh
Cure is the only positive cure known
to the medical fraternity. Catarrh
being a constitutional disease, re-
quires constitutional treatment.
Halls Catarrh Cure is taken inter-
nally. acting directly upon the blood
and mucous surfaces Of the system
thereby destroying the foundation of
the disease, and giving the patient
strength by building up the constitu.
ton and assisting nature in doing its
work. The proprietors have 30 much
faith in its curative powers. that they
offer One Hundred Dollars for any
case that it fails to cure. Send for
list Of testimonials.
F. j. CHENEY & co.
Toledo, Ohio
Sold by Druggists, 75c. ..'1
Halls Family Pills are the best.
Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1897-10-15
Senator Steward Speaks.

, The courtroom was comfortably
,flledThursday night by people drawn
thither Ivy the announcement that
Senator Stewart would speak on the
living issue of the day. The meating
was called'to orderib1lJoh1S. May
hugh. chairman of the Silver party
county committee, who made a few
remarks eulogistic of the Senate and
introduced him to the audience.
Asthe Sanator stepped forward, he
was greeted with a hearty round Of
applause. He at once launched into
a discussion of the money question
and for two hours he hello the earnest
affection of the audience. He made
many telling points lis behaf of the
white MEAL and it's speedy restoration
to its place as a money metal. /
In regard to the outlook for a. vic
tory in 1900, the Sen;ior expressed
tie same viewa as those given the IN
DEEPEN oENf in the interview yeeter
day. After thoroughly discussing
the silver question from the free coin.
age standpoint, he closed with. an clio.
quent tribute to the honesty and in.
tegfity Of William J. B,yan, the gal
liant standard bearer of the silver
forces in the last camps;gn.
The meeting closed with three
cheers for Bryan and three more for
Senator Stewart. III
The INDEPENDENT reporter was at
the meeting prepared to take notes
Of the Senator's speech, but the court
room was so COLI: and uncomfortable
that it took all Of his efforts to keep
warm. Suffice it to say that the SEN
ator's speech was a masterfnl pre-.
sentation Of the paramount question
now before the American people.
Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1897-10-15
THE OLD WAY
or treating Dyspepsia and IndiEcS-
ton by DtosiuE, . BarbarouS
and Useless Ono. ~

Or treating Dyspepsia and IndiH0U-.
ton by DtesiuE, . BarbarouS
and Useless One. 70.
We say the old way. but really It is
very common one at present time
and many dyspeptics and physicians
as well consider the first step 10 take
in attempting to cure Indigestion is,
to diet, either by selecting certain
foods and rejecting others or togreat-
ly diminish the quantity usually TAKE
en-, in other words the starvation
plan is by manyisupposed to be the
first essential. 49, rs-
The almost certain failure Of tho
starvation cupe for dyspepsia has
been proven time and again, but still
the moment Dyspepsia makesitst ap-
pearance a, course Of dieting is an
at once advised.
All this L.. radically wrong. It., is
foolish and unscientific to recommend
dieting or starvation to man suffer
ing from Dyspepsia, because Indi-
gestion itself starves every organ and
every fibre'in the bouy.
What the Dyspeptic wants is
abundant nutrition, which means
plenty of good, wholesome, well-cook-
ed food and something to assist the
weak stomach b. digest it. This is
exactly the purpose for which Stu
arts Dyspepsia Tablets are adapted
and this is tbs method by which they
cure the worst cases Of Dyspepsia, in
other words the patient eats plenty
of wholesome food and Stuart's Dys-
pepsia Tablets digest it for him. In
this way the system is nourished and
tile overworked stomach rested, be-
cause the tablets will digest the food
whether the stomach works or not.
One of these tablets viii digest 5000
grains Of meat or eggs. ,,,~
Your druggist will tell you that
Stuart's Dyspepsia Tablets is the
purest and safest remedy sold for
stomach troubles and every trial
makes one more friend for this excel
ent preparation. Sold at Scots. =, for
full sized package at all drug stores.
A little book on stomach diseases
mailed free by addressing Stuart Co.,
Marshal, Mich.
Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1897-10-15
stephen.J. Field Retires.

[Contin ued fro second pege.
the Circuit. .conrt and 365 prepared
while waS on the Supreme Cou:t Of
California, it win be seen that have
voiced the decision in 1.042. cases AS
l look back over the moro than third
Of a ce0tury that[ have sat on. this
bench, l am more and more impressed
with the immeasura5le Importance OF
this court. Now and then we hear it
spoken of as an sristocratic feature
Of republican government. But it
is the most democratic of all. Sem
ators represent their States and Rep
reseltatives their constituents, but
this court stands for the whole coun-
try, and az such it is truly of the peo-
pie. by the people, and for the people,
with this / give place to my sue
eessor, but ] can never cease TO lin.
ger on the memories Of the past.
Among the compensations for all the
hard work that q seat on this bench
imposes have been the iptimacies and
friendsbl ps that have been formed be-
tween it's nsmbers. Though we have
often differed in our opinions, it has
always been an honest difference,
which did not affect our mutual re-
gard and respect.
with profound respect and regard,
1 am, my dear brethren,
"Very sincerely and slway s yours,
sSTEnREN j. F1eLD."
Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1897-10-15

long the papers said, by the magnates
OF the Union Pacific railroad. It's
duty wgs to reject all compromises.
foreclose the mortgage and recover
as much of the money as possible.
There seemed ever probability that
the Union Pacific matter, which has
dragged on 80 long, would finally be
settled, and that the federal govern
meut would recover some Of the mon
ely it gave to the construction of this
line. '.'
But thesGepublican notices, there
has bean let up of late IN the press
utterances on this subject, a silence
that is most suspicious ard presages
evil. especially as the friends of the
Union Pacific are now advancing var
ious reasons why it would not be
advisable to foreclose, and why it
would be far better to accept the
compromise proposed by the rail-
road. There are indications that the
way is being paved for the admins
tration to enter into a compromise,
and that journals friendly to McKn-
ley are silent on this matter because
they do not care to compromise the
president or interfere with what he
may do. This is all the more aston
ishing when it is remembered that
scarcely paper in the country would
have dared to suggest eyeo two years
ago a compromise Of the governments
claim. .....