New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-02-11
HALF A DOZEN MATERIALS
USED IN ONE GOWN AND MADE ON THE
LATEST OF FRENCH DESIGNS.
CARE NEEDED TO BLEND CoIORs SATISFACTORILY
so THAT TIE GENERAL EFFECT
MAY ZEE HARMONIOUS.

MAY ZEE HARMONIOUS.
Some OF the newest French gowns have half
dozen different materials let into the bodice. and II
these are all well blended. the effect Is pretty. one
of Laferrieres latest productions is gown Of blue
velvet having a narrow front OF white satin COW
cred with point lace. Next to this appears n vest
OF pale yellow. covered with black velvet passe-
menterie and then another vest overlapping that
one. Of lavender velvet covered with Jet tracery.
few gathered folds OF the velvet are followed
by shirring of black satin. commencing several
inches under the arms and extending over the hips
In a sort Of tab TO which the gathers OF the skirt
are attached. The black satin shirring Is con-
tlnued around the back. above belt OF yellow
satin. making bolero effect. and also extends al
most UP to the back OF the neck In square. The
collar consists Of small ruff of velvet. The
sleeves are long and tight. They have pointed
cuffs at the wrist. extending well over the hand
with gathered puffs at the tops, over which are
loops OF black satin ribbons about four inches
wide
The bottom Of the skirt is finished with wide
band of black satin. The hat worn with this cos
tune is covered with ostrich feathers and has
punches Of violets in front.
A RECENT FELIX MODEL.
Az recent Felix model. which is quito effective Is
of pale green MORE The bodice consists OF
figaro OF black passemen.ere. bordered on the IN
side edge with black fur. This opens In 'front.'
OF lace, draped over white satin. with draped Dei'
of black satin. The bolero has epaulettes OF black
passementerie. which extend over the puns on the
shoulders OF the green sleeves being held upby bands
Of the fur put sort Of deep loop from shoulder
TO shoulder The rest OF the sleeves Is long ana
tight-fttng to the wrist. There the sleeves are
ended with bands OF the fur and inner GUNS OF
black satin, extending over the hands. The sKir'
Is full and straight, and has six ends or back
satin ribbon hanging from the waist. On each o..
t,tith m
ton OF black and green in this gown Is exceed
ingy striking. a black satin bow and pale green
ostrich tip worn In the hair
NAVY BLUE WAISTS.
Dark navy blue tulle waists are becoming TOT
luncheon parties and other day functions. one Oh
these has a round. deep yoke OF navy blue veivet
from the draped collar Of which extend radia'ihg
bands OF white cloth. thickly embroidered with
gold paillettes bits OF coral and urquoises These
have three scallops at the ends. which hang over
n gathered bodice OF navy blue tulle. This has a
narrow heading OF the tue covering the edge OF
the woke which encrces the entire neck Beio"
the woke are inserted the sleeves, each consisting
of frill and n puff and many close gathers 10
the elbow where 1t is ended by wide friii OF the
tnlle
Tho earIe., full dress on pictorial record belongs to
II. sixteenth century and 1t is that Of Queen Claude
wife of Francis Of France The skirt OF IS some r
rich material is EXTENDED over hoop d ann ,s Gu n
odpnnfv rich netticoat in the middle of which
hangs. from jeweed belt, a long jewelled chain
reaching nearly 10 the hem and ending In pendant
Of great beauty. The waist ~ apparently mace
without darts. Nat and straight. and cut low ana
square in the neck with small epauiet'es apoue ,l
sleeves These are org and flowing. and nearly
cover undersleeyes which the nsht-n.dihs 6,,ean
the picture which has been preserved queen
C'laude's hair Is parted and combed down smoothly
on each side and she wears coli ana veil
THE FIRST LONG WAISTS.
This tyne OF dress seems TO have covered long
period. and not until 1870 are We shown any I'M
nortont changes But in a picture OF the wife OF
Charles TX although the squared neck, moving
sleeves and extended skirts are still TO be seen, TO-
sether with the jewelled chain In front. the bodice
assumes a shapely appearance, darts are i' Tp
duced and the waist is long and pointed the
square neck Is filed In with rich emproiGe.y. ~
riff encrces the throat, and the hair rolcd pacK
M the side is covered with small leweIied cap
to which Is suspended veil Je"els ueNVi"'O wv
body in the greatest profus!oh ,.,,,.,.. -,r
few wears later. however. the Elizabethan run
comes into favor the flowing sleeves are abandoned
and nuns take their places while the skirts puled
out AT the hips Topped over petticoats OF con,
trasting color Hoops and ruffs and stun pointed
waists continue until the time OF LOUIS NIL III
169 the ladies' OF the period cut open the necks or
their gowns and turned their RI rs INTO nroau cor
lars shortened their waists ana wore men nan
I'm the pretty fashion familiar TO artists in the
pctures of Henrietta Maria, the queen OF Charies
| Of England. . ., -, NJ, 4. :,
Vallicrc shown In picture or 1901 NOT uhIiKe that
NJ American beauties of forty years ago. There
are ooped-up curs at the side OF the hGad low
necks cut down on the shoulder Trains anu " 1
teau waist and overskrt. This continues until the
nowdered hair and grotesque 'panlers OF the
court OF Louis Nv with the bowneitu mar ama
the beautiful toilets OF the f0mpadour perlou,
IIoouskirts and powdered hair both went down WIN
the French Revolution. having had IA STEADY reign
for three centuries.