The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-11-07

NEW YORK, Nov. Fur plays an
important part in costumes as the sea-
son advances. Sable is the most fash
ionable fur still, but it is only for the
rich. The Hudson bay variety is more
moderate in price and is very becom-
ing, besides which excellent color can
be given artihcially to the French
sables, and they are soft and glossy of
texture. A new fur which promises to
be popular and is not expensive is
white Siberian fox dyed blue-gray
tone, resembling blue fox. 1t Is not
expensive, but the color is not one suit
able to all compilations. The same fur,
which is fine, long Of hair, handsome,
and soft to the touch, can be had dyed
a darker gray that is kinder to the
complexion if not so striking to the
eye. The name of this fur is the ex-
traordinary one of celestial fox. One
might be pardoned for supposing that
in celestial regions there was no
variety of vixen or vermin.
For q woman of tall, slender figure,
still in her heyday, the fur blouse is
the smartest wrap Of the season. The
broad tail or moired lamb is the hand
soonest material for a blouse, with a
jeweled belt to finish it. The back is
slightly loose and the front very much
so, but the fur is so soft and pliable
that it is not bulky. The fronts usually
turn back when opened, so as to show
a second fur, ermine or chinchilla. This
makes it a very warm garment when
folded over, and all have the storm
collar.
Some are fitted closely at the waist
line, so as to avoid belt, but the lat
ter accessory really belongs to the new
blouse with it's combined Franco-Rus-
sian origin.
Our winter girl, whose portrait we
give you this week, wears a walking
costume of caracule fur and ermine
with white tulle bow and front. This
ermine revers are edged with sable I'd
there are three little rows of sa2!,' at
the foot Of the skirt. Her muff is trim
med with ermine and lace.
There is a quieter and simpler char
acter about the new dress, the ma
terials are rich and the colors somber,
but the trimming is by no means elab-
crate, ard fUSSiness is little in evil
dence. Tucks continue to be used as
trimming, but as tucks in winter IA
brics are necessarily more clumsy than
in muslin, silk, and chiffon, there are
less of them. A skirt trimmed with
four rows of tucks, meeting each other
in a point at intervals down the front
of a skirt, is very good style. The same
idea is repeated on the bodice, the
tucks coming from either side seam and
| meeting both back and front There
are square revers on the bodice faced
with velvet, and the sleeves are finish
| ed with rows of tucks coming at inter
walls.
In order to compass about an elab-
crate up-to-date gown, and to avoid
the great expenditure, which, in the
ordinary way, it would entail, an eX-
| cellent plan is to have @ dress very
we'll and very plainly made, and to
trim it at home, just as one would a
| skeleton hat. Many women have a
| distinct talent for detail, to whom the
construction of a complete costume
would be a most reckless undertaking.
In having the frock made, it is neces-
sary to have some definite end in view.
| If a Russian bodice is desired and the
material decided upon for the skirt be
cloth and for the bodice velvet ard
satin, the plan Of procedure would be
to have the skirt plain with points
| OF satin let in up eaCn seam. Inc
bodice would be of velvet, as regarded
yoke, basque and sleeves, of soft Ro-
! man satin for the body portion.
When the gown arrives at home, fit
ting and hanging satisfactorily, the
owner must get some pretty foliage
like design and embroider it on with
| silk all round the edges. Say he1
dress is black, the design either il
light -leaf-green velYeteen, in or
! ange or in red, would look splendid
| and yet a more elaborate effect woulG
be obtained by studding the leaves
with jet. The appearance will be thai
| of very expensive gown. Further. tt
add to it's attractiveness for Outdoor
wear, clever fingers could fashion o.
lace some fur tails and a paste buckle
q particularly smart cravat. The same
plan can be practiced with regard tt
every style Of dress at present. il
vogue, only it must be made with {
view to it's ultimate homedecoration
This can also be carried out with ap
pliqued designs in Moorish and gui
pure lace, beaded, jetted, or tinsel
wrought The dressmaker will prob
ably regard a customer adopting thi
plan as a person Of peculiar taste I'm
til she discovers the plot, when sh
will be divided between annoyance AM
admiration. The taste for fancy work
which so many women possess in S
long degree, might be utilized in thi
way for their own dress. I know
lady who always embroiders tn