The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-11-10
for 1Momen

The greatness of the Russian blouse
bids fair 10 be lessened by a new rival
Which has made its appearance IN Pans
and In this country simultaneously. II
is known as the Partisan blouse and
really is a very pretty affair The sleeves
are small and the bodice, of course. fuu
and slightly pouched in front, but not at
the back, while the centre is quite dis
tinct from the remainder. s
One specimen of this sort of blouse
which attracted me was a blue popIin. the
strip down the middle being of a lighter
shade than the remainder of the gar
ment. This strip was covered with an
other and tapering strip of the richest
embroidery on fine white lawn. This mar
rowed at the top so that on either side
the lace cascade was shown to the best
advantage, soft falling lace appearing
over the very deep collar-band.
While it does not seem as If anything
could to any extent replace a fashion so
generally popular as the Russian blouse,
people who ought TO know say that this
Partisan fancy has taken an instantan-
eous and astonishing hold upon the minds
of those who devote much time and
thought to their apparel.
"
The late season fancy for red seems to
have taken shape this fall in the popular
iy of brick red for street wear. 1t is
seen in Paris for mantles and costumes,
as We'll as for eapes and Jackets. and IS
usually trimmed with black. either braid
ed in designs, trimmed with rows OF nat
black braid, or else with black fur. Some
times a combination of the three is no.
ticed. as ii seems almost impossible to
have any article of attire too much
trimmed to be Fashionable this year.
A particularly stylish and jaunfy cape
was of this bright red color in a rather
heavy cloth. coming well below the waist
in length. 1t was trimmed with narrow
strips of black cloth, Somewhat lighter in
weight. set close together, covering the
red with the effect of stripes. This is a
~favorite treatment when trimming colored
materials with black. The collar of this
cape was edged with chinchilla. An
other and quite different combination of
the same colors was found in a black
broad tail cape which was appliqued in
red velvet about the shoulders. and a coll
lar treated in the same way, cut in a sue
cession of points that rolled back from
the neck.
The jackets of the year nave very high
collars. There is no exception to this
rule. and Mediei effects are seen in al
most all of the new styles. The smartest
and trimmest tight fitting coats are
moulded to the figure like a habit, and
are covered entirely with appliqued or
braided designs. Buttons to match the
trimming are often used, and when this is
the case the buttons are small. On the
other hand large buttons are utilized
quite considerably for decorative purposes
some of them being very handsome I'M
deed, but the distinctive feature about
these indispensable articles this year is
that medium sized ones are out of date.
They must either be very tiny or very
large.
One of the most distinct novelties of the
season, and one which is considered most
promising by authorities on the subject,
is the tartan cape. The plaid may be
either single or double faced, although
the latter is preferable, and is made loose
in front. fitted to the figure in the back
with a belt strap. The collar is high and
quite aarihg and the epaulettes are mod
erately full and edged with fringe in
shawl style. The buttons used on these
wraps are either pearl or bone, and are of
good size. The tartan capes are designed
for travelling or general wear, when
warmth is a requisite.
"
The absence of basques in reception
gowns is noticeable. Sashes appear more
frequently, not only the silk gauze drap-
cries. but also the Pinch satin ribbons
figured with enormous floral designs, says
the Dry Goods Economist
GAUGES for gowns are also figured. Free
quently embroidery is combined with the
colorings, so that branches of trees and
the outlines and views of caves will be
developed by chenille, spangIes or metal
beads. Transparent goods over colored
silks are very much in vogue.
For the neck large ties of plated mater
ial, held in the centre by a wire are used.
Traverse trimmings are seen on %obliquely
arranged grounds. Oblique ruffles as
trimmings on blouses are much favored.
Pointed designs in braid are also set on
obliquely.
Very luxurious trimmings are provided
for plain materials. Designs outlined in
metal beads and spangles on tulle grounds
placed some distance apart or the skirt
and closer together on the sleeves and
waist, are among the handsomest trim
mings shown. Openwork Chantilly lace
bands, falling from the belt nearly to the
hem of he skirt. are often used with
good effect. Cats eyes and colored iris
designs are made in bead passementeries
for applications.
F1ounced skirts are rarely seen, but
where they do appear the simplest fiounce
Gs seldom used. Complicated effects are
sought, such as a light lace ~f1ounce, edged
with black gauze puffs or ruches. Dimin-
ishing ruff1es sometimes outline a sort of
apron effect on a skirt. AS a rule, a
fchu-like arrangement of lace, with long
ends, is used on the waist, to correspond
with the apron trimming on skirt.
Traverse trimmings of braid are set on
Jackets in relief effect in the same or con-
trasting color marked by the centre line
and disappearing beneath a passementerie
button. AS Topped and round trimmings
of wide silk braid are sought, by an ar
rangement Of the surface threads. the
scope of this material is greatly widened.
Sets of brandenburgs in tubular military
braid with ornamental pieces for the back
and sleeves. epaulettes with aiguillettes
and festooned cords for one shoulder,
plain gimp executed in rose designs, and
short curved pieces, the two used alter
nately, making a handsome bordering; ar