Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-08-21
The Approach Of Autumn Brings
Brilliant Tints and Shades.
The CHANGES In HAT STYLES
Some Striking Costumes Seen at
the Fashionable Resorts.
WHITE IS ALWAYS POPULAR
Copyright, 1897 by the Bachelor Syndicate)
Special Correspondence OF The Evening Star.
10

VopyTlSuI, 1881. Dy tne IeCnelirr SynulcateD
Special Core spoldence Of The Evening Star
NEW YORK, August 10. 1897.
AS midsummer passes insensibly into late
summer, the haze of August blurring the
transition, the pale blues. the rose tints
and the mauves that have filled the pros
pect brighten 10 more vivid shades. There
is certain brilliant yellow that starts into
sight, usually on hats, every year just
about as the goldenrod gets well into bios
som. The crimsons and scarlets that are
due regularly six weeks before the leaves
turn are already in evidence in the shape
of smart red cloth jacket bcdices to be
slipped over thin dresses when a warm
day cools toward night, like the waning of
a summer resort filtration. White does not
cease to be desirable as summer APP
proaches its close, but, instead of delicate
peach tints and pale watery greens, china
blue black. gold. grass green and cherry
are attracted to 1t as its accessories.
There are no very radical changes in cut
or trimming to be noted in the first dresses
for early autumn. but rather an elabora-
ton of already current IDEAS. Gold tnsel
is covering a multitude of sins, but its
charity in that respect could have been
predicted from the first announcements of
the jubilee program in London. The visit
OF eastern potentates to the west leaves
behind always trail of dressmakers' lew
elry and gold. Braiding is very much to
the fore for the decoration of cloth dresses
especially braiding in coarse silk cori
copied from last century materials and
forming a design completely round the
Skirt often of great compleXity.
Changes in Hats.
The newest hats are worn eli back upon
the head. to show the hair and contrast
boldly IN this Respect with the early sum-
mer headgear tilted over the eyes. Bon
nets for early autumn have bell crowns
and are trimmed about the brim with lace
or embroidery. An erect plume of feathers
on one side balances bows on the other.
Taffeta ribbon is still pre-eminent and the
niger width Is enough for bow. For sea-
side or country wear IN late August or Sep
TENDER the Palama hat is driving the sail
or off the field. Flowers or half handker-
chlefs OF Bright silk furnish the trimming
Inc sailor hat. so far as 1t survives has to
abandon its stiff decorum and the severe
simplicity of its plain ribbon band Its
crown, as metamorphoSed, is lost under
puHngs or chiron or dotted net. and it's
brlm is laden with hollyhocks or poppies.
september millinery runs good deal to
leghorns. An extremely quaint and pfctur-
esque hat that 1 saw yesterday was a large
leghorn twineG I'D in the hack with Lore
streGmers of black velvet to loop under the
chin. Spikes of scarlet cardinal flowers
with green leaves stuck out from the curves
OF the plant brim and were laid about the
crown.
For Out of Doors.
Some very pretty late summer frocks ap-
peared at an out-of-doors fee a few DAVIS
ago at Southampton, Long Island. A red
and white striped silk was most effective
The ground was white with narrow per
pendicular bars Of crimson. The skirt was
cut up on the left side to show a simulated
underskfrt covered with narrow white glace
frfllS. There was a bolero bodice with a
horizontally frilled white glace from. and
n ortv
rfed across the back and were arranged IN
give the usual look of width at the should
ers. Perfectly plain coat sleeves were used.
with crimson and white silk vest and
nigh lace collar. The hat was a large soft
white straw trimmed with black ostrich
plumes. The parasol of crimson and white
silk. like the skirt was edged with black
and white lace frflls.
Equally noticeable was a China blue and
white muslin in half-inch stripes running
about the skirt horizontally. On the white
stripe was design of forget-me-nots and
roses. Below the hips on either side were
set side pieces of plain blue muslin in sun
ray killings extending to the ground
These gave a decidedly original touch sto
the costume. The blouse bodice was worn
under a little souare-cornered bolero of
blue glace silk edged with a narrow ruffie
There were the usual tight sleeves shoulder
friils and high neck ruchings The large
nat was OF white straw trimmed with blue
bells and white feathers.
A very beautiful dress was a soft silver
gray cloth, the skirt of which was cut
close-f1tting in 'front.' with all the fullness
thrown into double box pleats behind. A
delicate tracery pattern in silver braid was
carried about the hem and about the basque
OF the moujik jacket which turned over in
a Medici collar and broad revers reaching
the waist line. These were faced with
white satin and covered with silver passe-
menteHe. The vest of white silk was tuck
ed horizontally. and had at the throat that
little touch Of black chiffon without which
In the eyes of many people no summer
dress Is reckoned quite so pretty as 1t might
be. A white lace parasol was carried.
For a Yachting Breakfast.
Open-meshed red canvas draped over red
taffeta was the material Of a quantity
beautiful frock worn at breakfast"
given on board a yacht moored of fine
country place on the banks of the Hudson
Two narrow frills of red moussehne de sole
were set about the skirt, with a consider
able interval between them. The blouse
bodice was gathered to q tiny-pointed yoke
at the throat, Of tucked mousseline de sole
A pointed cape OF red mousseline covered
with embroidery In black fitted about the
shoulders. and its long narrow fronts were
caught under corselet Of red taffeta fas-
tened with diamond buttons. This cape
was edged with an almost microscopic frill.
A Victorian bonnet, not of the extreme
type, was worn, OF red drawn muslin, with