The morning times., 1897-02-21

FASHION LIGHTENS
gg 81 SOMBER LENT

the top of the hand The points show the
velvet lining, and there is a small velvet
puff at the top The collar, which is
standing, is large and cut in points with
violet lining. The inside trimming CON
sists of chiffon. You might travel a
Sabbath days journey and not see a
pTettier one.
Already dyengagedcoUples, and their friends.
are talking about the Easter and post
Easter weddings, not so much for the
weddings themselves, as what they permit
the young women 10 wear. Taking about
it too soon, you say? If woman ism tprivi-
legged to discuss weeks in advance what
she is going to wear at a wedding, then
she has lost one or her greatest privileges
1t may be that this discussion is helped
along this year by the fact OF the very
numerous and beautiful textures which are
appropriate for costumes that all sorts OF
feHnlnity are supposed To wear on nupti4I
occasions.
Ihe tendency IS markedly toward Marie
Antoinette styles. The exquisitely flow
cred satin bTOcades, the fichus and other
lace decorations, all go to constitute a
custom that with the fIaring collar and the
coiffure must attract attention and adj
the gown ask than this ToiIettes OF the
time Of Queen Elizabeth, pOmpadourgOwns
robes like those worn by the Renaissance
queens, MaTie Stuart Costumes-au these
are talked OF favorahIy. and it seems more
than likely that oId-fashiOned church wed
dfngs during the month of smiles and tears
will take US back to the time OF when our
histories have taught US even more than
the Bradley Martin ball
One OF the features OF fashion just now
cold weather feature-is the brOcaded
wool bodice, and the bodice OF brocaded
silk They are generally worn with plain
skirts OF contrasting color, as when the
mixture IS blue ard black, and the skirt is
blue or green These are usually Y made with
wide cape-iike revers, which are b0rdered
with fur, having a narrow basque below
and belt above. While this is q very
comfortable cold weather substitute for
silk, 1t is probable this style OF bodice will
retain its popularity during the summer,
the fur, OF course. being eliminated from
the material used in the making thereof.
Notice he SifgnI difference wiIcn women
make nowadays in their dress Tor winter
and summer. Nowadays cloth gowns and
tweeds are worn the year round some
Of the smart set have adopted the large
linen embroidered collars edged with a
fTiIl, these being worn with velvet gowns.
With these are Worn the twice around
crlvats, sometimes. There is no one
sort OF size OF basque that has received
the particular Endorsement OF fas hion-
With outdoor coats OF a certain sort. the
baSques are longer, but this is not the
case with the trimmed velvet Jackets,
and it is a source OF pleasure that the
square tabs soften the outlines without
apparently Increasing the size OF the
waist
one OF the prettiest effects Row Is found
in the flower t0queS. A very charming
specimen is made entirely Of pansies
on one side is a chou OF dark velvet,
with one OF violet velvet, while a long
white osprey adds beauty and effect to
the crown. One hat is shaped like a
mushroom. 1t is made OF holland covered
canvas and black velvet ribbon AT the
left side, and just over the ear. are two
pink roses. while two black feathers at
the top add elegance and effectiveness to
the whole. Returning 70 the toque, it
would not be fair 70 dismiss the subject
without saying something OF the very
charming arrangement whose crown is
made up Of plated black tuIIe Its um
is narrow and turned up, and formed of
steel sequins traced on to the tuIle The
trimming is Of black ostrich feathers