The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-04-18
SU NJ Err JOURNEY.


Re Odessa by way OF the Mediterranean
u was q beautiful afternoon in May wher
our ship steamed out OF tho harbor of Mar
%seilles. We had laid out an interesting scheme o
travel. and we were now beginning Its rcaliza
lion. We were going through the Meditsrran
can. stopping at two places in Greece. thence Il
salonica and C~onstant!nople. and from there tc
odessa in Russia. From there by ship the whole
length OF the BLACK Sea to- Batoum, thencn bS
rail to Tihis and Baku on the CASPIAN Sea. then
again BY rail To Samarcand IA Turkestan. and
finally back from Central Asia through Euro
pean Russia. Poland. and Germany to the At
lantic again. and 40 TO New York, making In
all from the commencement 10 the end q Jour
ney of perhaps 5000 miles.
II began most pleasantly. and so IL continued
to the close. Not n single storm of any impor.
tance. not q mishap of any kind came to inter-
fere with our comfort. II is true we were not
able to get beyond the boundaries OF trans-C eau.
casia; but that was due TO tho.temporary brt ak
ing up Of the mountain railway between Ilhis
and Baku: but apart from tuat we were able To
carry out our full plan. and In duo time we
found ourselves safely at home again on the
delightful borders of Long Island Sound.
We had the luck to pass through the Strait
of Bonifacio. which separates Corsica from
Sardinia. Ia full day light. 90 that we could
see fairly the extreme points nj each of those
famous islands. They are billy and wooded
near the STRAIT. and one could not help wishing
TO 20 ashore on each and explore The whole In
terior. Next day we passed among the Lipari
Islands and saw both the crater of Etna and
the smoking con, of Strombo!i. Tho Strait Of
Messina. between Italy aud Silly. we reached
Just as the twilight was coming on. and the
only Idea we could gain of the scenery was
from the vague outlines Of the heights, and the
masp OF twinkling lights in the streets and
houses Rleaming through the darkness and
showing the position OF Messina.
Charybdis and Scylla are passed almost
without noticing either. Yet, we reflected. a
whirlpool which could make a great disturb
apce and danger to NAVIGATION In the time OF
Ul"sses. might only prove o triae TO q modern
pteamer Of 5000 tons.
The plan OF our voyage included two land
inEs in Greece. one at Kalainata in the ancient
Pelo oonn and the other at SYRIA. an island
among tho Cyclades. We were very glad Of this
opportunity to see something more Of the mod
ern Greeks and of the cities they live IN. Kala-
mata Is at the head of the Gulf of Koron,
some thirty or forty miles north of Cape Mata-
pan. 1t is q busy, manufacturing, modern
place OF 5000 to 8 5000 inhabitants. The prin.
cipal Industry appears to be the manufacture of
silk. Dur anchor was hardly thrown out be-
fore peddlers Of silk things were on board, sell
Ing what they could to tho passengers. The
goods seemed to be hand-woven. solid and sub
stantial. and OF only two or three simple colors.
Handkerchief worth from ono to two francs
each. and pretty scarfs. thin and xauzy, formed
the principal articles Of these dealers traflc,
They also had white and drab materials for wo-
mems dresses. but l saw no printed stufrs.
From Kalamata to syria occupied q whole
hiaht. taking Us around the southern AK
tremiv Of Greece and TO a considerable dis
fance eastward from the coast. syria,
with its 10000 or 10000 people. 10 a very
Attractive place. entirely European In ap-
bearance. with fine residences. churches. mon
asteries. and other pablo buildings on the
slopes Of q high hill. while the commercial
quarter Is spread out on the lower land, along
the shore. The people In both these towns
seem to have q great deal In con mon with tho
Greeks OF classical times. Activity, energy.
quick wit, and ability TO take care of them
selves form conspicuous traits of the popula-
tion. syria 10 said to be the most important
town in the kingdom after Athens. and a walk
among It's streets and shops confirmed the I'M
preston formei in other t~owns--where the
Greeks evidently predominant. that no people
are better able 10 manage their own business
than those intellectual, practical. energetic.
ana descendants OF the ANTIQUE
Achaians- They are surely among the most USE
ful and efficient citizens OF the modern world.
The next morning as we were moving north
ward along the coasto Macedonia. the Thrac an
Olympus. with snowy summits, lowered be.
Iore our eyes In the west. 1t Is O noble and