The record-union., 1897-03-07

kI&IZ
Shirred breadths and fiat or box
pleats have in a great degree replaced
the godet effects at the back of dress
skirts. In many instances braiding or
q pretty vine passementerie Stimulating
braiding is carried from the skirt hem
upward, not only on the front and
sides, but frequently on new French
gowns, at the back, tapering as it goes.
In nearly every case, Notwithstanding
all that we hear of the absence of stiff
interlinings, the back and sides of these
skirts are thoroughly we'll set out from
the figure, and not a few of the gowns
are so arranged that French dreSsmak-
ers call them standing gowns" and
certainly some of the moderately
spreading. elaborately trimmed models
would not be improved by a sitting
position of the wearer. There are very
many women who never wear their
walking costumes in the house any
more than they would don their robes
of ceremony for the promenade-a wise
rule-but a gown in which one cannot
comfortably sit is rather a trial, and
the knowledge that the appearance Of
ones dress is spoiled by this decidedly
JtSl1ul IbS-llOn Is ulSc5IGGdOlc " lIlA1lIA
of, let alone endure.
Skirts narrowly gored and then
flounced from belt to hem are noted
among fashionable dress models, also
skirts of equal length, each skirt being
finished with a deep hem with three
or four tucks above it.
New shirt waists of plain ecru pink,
or blue linen have tucked and corded
yokes with cords and tucks running
the entire length of the blouse exactly
in front, and also at the back. Some
have plain turn-down collars and deep
cuffs of pain white linen; others have
immense white sailor collars with re-
vers in front, bordered with tiny wash
gimp the color of the shirt waist.
Many of the elegant Lenten costumes
TO be worn at fashionable churches
this year have been copied from gowns
designed by court modistes for the
Princess o. Wales, who in England is
undeniably a leader of becoming, ele-
CANT and sensible fashions The I'rin-
cess has never patronized anything that
could be considered outre, and what
ever mode she adopts has seemed es-
pecially designed for her. She has never
quite left off the semblances of mourn
ing since the death of her eldest son,
and still more recent deaths in the
royal family have necessitated a con-
tinuance of the wearing of colors and
gowns indicative of mourning, and
these robes prove most suitable to COPY
from in making of gowns for the sol
emn Lenten season. Mauve and black
is a mixture that meets with favor
from the Princess, and a model dupli-
Gated from one of her carriage cos
tunes is composed of a superb quality
of black Watered silk, lined with mauve
taffeta, with a balayeuse of the same
on the inside of the skirt hem. The
fitted blouse bodice is of mauve silk
with a bolerO of the moire almost hid
den by its elegant jet garnitures, with
q deep girdle to match. A small toquc
of mauve velvet en- suite is trimmed
with shaded violets and a jetted aig
rette. This year there are innumerable
shades of violet and purple, which are
the generic titles for pansy, petunia,
damson. heliotrope, cyclamen. dahia,
etc The range is wide, and though
strange indeed If one of the shades,
ranging as mauve, purple or violet, he
not found becoming 10 either celestial
blonde or brilliant brunette. FOR in
choosing almost any color in these days
one has any amount of attractive and
enhancing aids in rendering them be-
coming in the way of laces, net draper
ies. couarettes, ffchus, velvet and rib
that tone. soften and render compli-
mentary to the wearer a color that
would otherwise prove most trying.
Pink is a decided favorite for even
ing toilets, and shaded violets afford a
strong contrast when used in conjunc-
ton with pink, a violent blending, per
haps. it may be reckoned, but granite
the right shade of pink and the correct
tint in purple, the contrast is neither
harsh nor inharmonious, and is GER
tainly a very fashionable mixture.
Corsets are wonderfully improved
There is no set wooden method or fixed
style about these garments. They are
made in scores of different shapes and
sizes to suit exactly various forms. and
are designed for all occasions from the
closely laced. many-boned cuirass
shapes, to wear with glove-fitting LOUIS
bodices, to the corset to accompany the
easy gown, the golf and tennis cos
tunes. the blouse suit for physical-cul-
ture exercises, and similar uses. Then
come the very low-cut shortwaisted
corsets to wear with Empire gowns, fol
horseback riding, bowling, etc, and last
of all the soft boned, easy corset de
mutt for invalids. and for those who
take very special care of their figures
for personal or professional reasons.
All women are advised to patronize
the newly popular princesse dress. al
least those who have fair figure and &
first-class dressmaker-for no amateur
can make a success of a gown of this
description. requiring experience, taste
and the tailor's finishing touches. AL
the fashionable accessories are added
to the gown-the bolero effects, the an
tique collars, ruffs, frills, picturesque
sleeves, and fancy narrow girdle OF