The record-union., 1897-05-09

In the bloodless war against the
blouse, the shirt-waist, and the separ-
ate fancy waist, this trio have carried
the day and are once again triumphant.
Fresh models are appearing almost
hourly now in new bewildering, be-
witching forms in every domain of
fashion in the city, and word comes
from over the sea that their reign
abroad is not over by any manner or
means, although costumes and toilets
made entirely Of one fabric are now
first choice for most, although not all,
occasions.
Slender women continue to wear the
round Empire sash softly folded around
the waist, the wide ribbon or scarf be-
ing very often carried twice around the
figure. Fuller forms, however, wisely
adopt the girdle, shaped as fatty as
possible; this in many cases rising high
under the arms and narrowing to a
point at the waist in front. This is
decidedly more becoming to any but a
very slender figure than any OF the
belts of uniform width.
The parasols this year are beauti-
full beyond description, and the color
ings, combinations, and new effects are
simply marvellous The richest and
heaviest materials are utilized in strong
contrast to the most diaphanous and
perishable, and scores of fabrics which
in time past were never thought Of in
the creation Of a parasol are now
brought into prominent use. The size
and shape of this seasons models are
varied somewhat from those fashiona-
BILE a year ago, and the handles Of ex-
pensive varieties are exquisite works
of art. There are parasols of satin
brocade, moire. taffeta, foulard, plain
Lyons satin, crepe de Chine, crepe lisse,
chiffon, grass cloth, pongee, silk cam
vas, grenadine, China silk, plain, coin
dotted, spotted, embroidered, and strip
ed. Many of the dressy styles are
trimmed with rows of narrow ribbon,
laid upon accordion-pleated frills So
much fancy and decoration prevail that
the once elegant plain silk parasols are
now relegated to the realms of sun UNI
brellas.
The fashion of wearing chatelaines is
being revived. There are three dis
suspended by chain ten to eighteen
inches in length and fastened at the
waist by a safety pin more or less
elaborate. The very latest effect is
made in gun metal. The short chain
and spread pin is the old and most
popular style. Then there is the regu-
lation chatelaine, with medium lengths
in chains. in sterling or gold. A tiny
mirror. scent bottle, tablet and pencil
are Indispensable necessities as a start
er. The rest follows as a matter of
personal convenience.
Some Of the new Victorian evening
dresses of diaphanous material are
made with low necks and transparent
long sleeves. Others, far prettier, have a
low silk waist-lining and high waist
of the thin textile shirred into a rib
bon neck-band, and again at the waist
Instead of satin or velvet-ribbon bows
at the back and sides of the neck high
class modistes are now adding pretty
fan-pleatings of lace about five inches
wide. Some of these encircle the neck
about two thirds of its circumference;
other dresses show the lace pleated up
very full TO fall over the top of the
waist only on the sides and at the back
of the collar Gold and silver threads
are interviewer with some OF the new
est French laces.
In the array of pretty accessories OF
the toilet are quaint frilly little neck
decorations set upon narrow neck
bands. These are pleated up extremely
full and stand well away from the
throat. The frills are graduated in
size, the outer one much f1uted but
droopy in effect. These are dressy
looking and almost invariably becom-
Ing.
Tzigane. Watteau, Victorian, Jeanne
dare, old Flemish point, and FIoren.
tine arabesque are among the beautiful
fancy laces woven expressly for dec
Grating summer toilets and French lin
gerie.
Many fastidious women wear. with
their low-necked corset covers, a large
kerchief-the word used by our grand
mothers is the only correct one-of the
finest and sheerest linen, hemstitched
crossed over the neck, and brought III
" tiA III lHe throat InlS Is TO protect
the lining of the gowns. One of these
kerchiefs. after once wearing by the
daintiest OF women, shows dusky shad.
ows upon it, which point a hygienic mo-
raj. Sensible Dame Fashion-she is al
the bottom an old lady of much com.
mon sense-has not as yet provided a
covering for the bare arms that are
thrust into elegantly lined gowns. Ny
lady does not realize how much she need.
them. But she would be Mortified al
the thought of wearing another gar.
ment next her skin for two weeks with.
out submitting it to the Iaundress.
Very pretty girdles can be made III
with a box of old-style jewelry. The
''sets" of our grandmothers who wore
pendant earrings and large brooche.
to match are just now the very thing
especially with precious stones set il
pyramid settings. A clever jeweler car
put a small slide on the back, without
destroying its future usefulness. The
brooch can be made to serve as q clasp