The San Francisco call., 1897-12-26


Marcella, I am truly annoyed
this season, for thus far the
only real novelty I have in
troduced is the Russian blouse.
AS a result numbers Of figures
are spoiled. You, Marcella, are the
onIv one with whom 1 am acquainted
who has condemned this creation. l
assure YOU its failure in the greater
number of instances cannot be charged
TO me. for never did I pretend that it
was suitable for all women, whether
they were slender or stout, broad
backed and wide-hipped; manywill don
the pOuched bodice and then declare,
If their general tout ensemble is criti-
cized, that they are only following my
dictates. But you know perfectly we'll
that 1 have never insisted on anything
which was not becoming to the indi-
viduaI. I indicate what is the mode.
At all times, however, 1 urge all women
to make such variations as their special
styles demand
Every. sort of embroidery is fashion
able now, although the general use of
paillettes has made them no novelty.
Chenille is sharing favor with pail
lettes, and the dernier cri is the appli-
cation of padded flowers composed of
silk. Only an expert can make such
flowers. On one of the latest and most
perfect gowns that has been evolved
this winter are padded flowers of the
same cloth in irregular trails.
Some of the best evening confections
seen for a long time are of net, en-
broidered in steel, jet or silver. Many
are the maids and matrons that have
most skillfully wrought gowns for
themselves that rival in beauty those
to be had in most of the shops.
Several of the prettiest dresses for
young girls are of net striped with
satin ribbons, edged with frills of net
bOrdered again with satin ribbons.
Spotted net or plain net may be equal
ly we'll used for such frocks, and baby
ribbon gathered by means of a thread
through the center trims many bod
ices, the effect being charmingly chic
but the amount of work on such gar
ments is great, as hundreds of yards
Of the ribbon are consumed.
Chinchilla is now the fur. For even
ing cloaks nothing can excel it's
beauty; for other occasions very pop
ular is sable. Some coats are also
made of broad tail with chinchilla col
lar.
l nave just seen an evening cloak of
an oyster white satin brocade of
heavy texture lined with the palest
pink satin. It is shaped like a paletot
with a gorgeous trimming, which ex-
tends over the shoulders and almost
reaches the knees. 1t is composed of
ivory silk cord, gold cord, black pearls
and white and pink pearl Round the
neck is a scarf Of pink chiffon edged
with yellow lace, and at the top Of the
high collar which incloses the scarf is
a small band Of gray mouffon Coats
built of large plaid cloths are exceed
ingly smart looking for girls of from
10 to r. The skirt should hang easily
about the tops of the walking boots
and then be plated into a velveteen
yoke, the plaid material being used in
straight breadths. At the bottom of
the yoke, front and back, are five rows
of black braid strapped across, but
broken in the middle by a chevron, de-
fined by small gilt buttons The vel
veteen collar is trimmed to correspond
and may be raised about the ears or
turned down. The sleeves are the reg
ulation coat sleeve model, the plaid
bias and the same design of braid and
buttons for the wrist finish. A black
felt turban, having a deep band of
Persian lamb around it's brim and a
cluster of short black quilts at the side.
harmonizes delightfully."- with this style
of coat. The best plaids for this pur-
pose are those dull grays, reds or
blues, blocked with broad bands of
black, enlivened with narrow lines of
yellow, scarlet and white.
Bear in mind that whatever will
contribute to slenderness of figure is
the hall mark of smartness this win
ter, and that feature is particularly
emphasized both in the form and
trimming Of the skirts of gowns. They
must cling in graceful lines above the
knee, and below it curve out into
ripping fullness, which must in no
way suggest stiffness, but harmonize
with the whole effect of slenderness of
figure, allowing an accumulation of