Evening journal., 1897-10-11
EoR uP.To.pAIE WOMEN.
Cutting Down the sleeves of Last
Years Shirt Waists.


Years Shirt Waists.
The up-to-date woman with her mod
crate income has been struggling with
her Inst summers wardrobe and has
emerged triumphantly. but exhausted,
after soIae excessively disagreeablc
hours To cut the collar off last years
shirt waist, make a buttonhole in the
collar band and wear the latest collar
and tie is an easy matter. But when it
comes to ripping out a starched sleeve
and taking off a starched cuff, life as
sumes serious aspect. It must be
done, however If one would be strictly
en- regle. The shirt waist sleeve is cut
in one piece, and after taking it out
has been accomplished, il is easy to cut
IL off at the top and little at the Sides
taking care to slope it properly and
10 make IL no smaller at the cuff end
Then IL must be tucked into the cuff
with three tucks instead of being gath
cred. The difficult matter of putting
the cuff on comes next, and it is wiser
to sonlx the starch out of this obstreper-
GUS piece of linen before attempting it.
When all this is accomplished the waist
may be worn with q proud conscious
ness on the part of the wearer that she
Is not behind the timNs.
There IS no article CT dress which
requires more attention than the shirt
waist, If one does not wish to look like
dowdy. The ordinary dumpy gar
ment, with untidy belt and vague tie,
is enough to make the smart woman
forever forswear this most useful gar
ment Properly made and worn, how
ever, they are delight, and give look
of trimness and neatness to most
women.
This year shirt waists are made of
thinner material. Organdics, lawns
and dimities vie in favor with each 9th
er. The detachable collar of white
linen is worn in almost every case, and
the favorite tie is of black satin, tied by
the wearer, as the edict against made
ties for women was issued some time
ago. This black satin tie is n com
plicafkd affair, and it must go twice
around the collar before tying. Satin
ribbon, double faced and an inch and
three quarters wide will be found more
satisfactory than the made tie, and not
as expensive.
With the ned Roman-strip silk shirt
waists piece of the material is made
into scarf and worn as a four-in-
| hand. With shirt waists of washable
material a tie to match the ribbon in
! the hat is often worn. Weare going back
60 the old days of matching things" in
spite of the glaring combinations we
meet on the streets.
The hunting stock is much in favor
for bicycling, golf or travelling wear.
As ordinarily tied 1t gives the neck an
unfinished look. But an English wom-
an assures me that carefully and neat
ly tied they can be so worn that the abb
sence of a stiff linen collar is not de-
tected.
The favorite collar is very high, with a
narrow band turned over at the top.
| This band does not meet in the back
Il There are cuffs TO match these collars
and many Of the shirt waists are made
with detachable cuffs, but still moro
chic looking effect is TO have cuffs oi
the same material as the waist, not
starched, but soft and turned bach
3 carelessly. This IS particularly fetch
ing effect in dimity.
! The daintiest collars are q modifica
2 tion of the round, embroidered one
p worn last winter over the necks of win
ter gowns. This spring they have sof
band of lawn 10 go inside the dress o
ribbon collar, outside there are two mar
row pieces of embroidered null, like tn
turned-over linen collars, but so mucl
softer and more feminine. They are de
3 signed to be worn over high, plain rib
, bon collars or stocks, having a smal
, made bow in front. All bows, by III
way, have shifted from the back o
f the collar to the front Of it.
;. Another fetching collar and exceed
t ingly smart, also, is a narrow knit
= plating OF lawn falling over the stoc
e or high collar. This is.fnished by a
Z enormous bow of null, with knife-plait
r. cd ends, which take up large part c
the front of the chest.
il Narrow girdles of silver or gold link
s studded with precious stones, are of
: EN- worn with silk waists, but the COZ
= ton shirt waists should have a plai
j leather belt, either white or of leathe
!, colored to match the gown.-Washinl