davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
SUMNER COSTUMES.

quarters of yard long. These are in
tended to curl around the crowns and
droop over the brims. But the largest
number Of ostrich plumes are worn in
the empire style-that is, upright on
the hat and dropping at the ends. There
is no limit to the modes of trimming
the straw hats Rosettes of ribbon or
wreaths of enormous flowers are equally
liked. Some Of the brims are dipped in
front and held down in that position by
oblong buckles of gilt or of fancy jewel
work. Some have plated frills of lace,
either black or white or accordion plait-
ed silk null all around. and a nodding
flower above it all. In few instances
the brim is so bent and twisted as to
give rise to the suspicion that the wear
ers small brother had been using it for
football. In these dented places one
finds punches of flowers cuddled up CO.
zily and matching the larger wreaths or
bouquets on the upper part. As if there
were not enough, there are tufts of
plumes, bows of ribbon and aigrets on
the crown. Others have the brims bent
upward sharply in front and held up
by stiff ribbon bow. Along the edge
next the hair in front is half wreath
of flowers. Another basket full is put
around the crown. Hats are turned up
in front and at the sides, but no longer
at the back.
Dainty capotes are made with tiny
square of chip or straw for a crown or
regular cone, and nothing else.
Around these are twined thick wreaths
of delicate flowers like pink azalias or
pansies or apple or cherry blossoms
with a soft little tuft of plumes above.
Light gray is prettier than black with
the pink flowers. A very beautiful hat
was made of plated gray satin straw,
the whole round brim being in the box
plaits Above the brim was full ruffle
of pink taffeta, with a still fuller ruffle
made of white lace set upon the edge.
This was sewn around the crown, save
small place directly in front where
there was a puff of the silk drawn
through a buckle. On each side the
crown was an outstanding tuft of gray
plumes A capote of white chip. had
wreath of sweet peas in all their beauti
full colors put about the bIim. The
wreath was SO thick and wide that one
had to part the blossoms to see the
crown. On the left side was a little
aigret of gold wheat. Wheat and oats
in gold, silver or jet are very fashionable
just now. The wheat is particularly
pretty with poppies and also the blue
cornfiower. The oats are pretty with
everything
Some of the new wells are odd. In
some cases they are of tulle so fine that
one can scarcely see the mesh. This is
in white, pale pink, gray and black.
There are silk and chenille dots upon
it, Sometimes a chenille dot will show
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24

q CLEAN of iridescent tinsel. This gives
the wearer the appearance of having a
flock of bluebottles buzzing around her,
though perhaps Tennyson would have
called it something more poetical, like
o swarm of frefies tangled in a silver
braid But those wells are very becom-
ing. / think fewer women wear wells
now than year ago. That means that
either their compilations are better now
than they were or that the bicycle makes
them unsafe, as they obstruct the vision,
and everybody rides bicycle now.
For everyday summer frocks there is
an endless line of stuifs. The lawns,
ginghams and the canvases have all
been mentioned before. The printed
jaconets with satin stripes in delicate
colors are very pretty and useful. So are
the printed dimities There are lawns
with openwork stripes in pretty lace
effects, with floral designs printed over
the whole These sell from Az to
cents per yard. The patterns are Of
artistic design, and thanks to- aniline
they wash well. They make very dainty
everyday dresses for hot days. The
most common manner of developing
these thin stuffs is to have full skirt
gathered to a belt and a full waist,
with or without yoke, and bishop
sleeves A little lace at the neck and q
ribbon belt finish it and make pref
ty gown Spanish fiouncas are very pop
ular for these thin goods. One dress
had one full fiounce at the bottom
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
THE HUMAN FIGURE.
How Its Symmetry Is Destroyed by Un-
natural Causes.


How Its Symmetry Is Destroyed by Un-
natural Causes.
The other day lady told me she had
made the discovery that she had been
sitting and standing Incorrectly all her
life. She had lived long enough to have
learned the fact long ago. She is nearly
80, quite plump, and felt convinced
that the unbecoming bunch of fat on
her shoulders and a distressing tenden-
cy to embonpoint were the direct results
of this unfortunate error. And we
might we'll be Mortified if it were re-
vealed to us how many women had sys-
tematieally cultivated hopelessly hid
eous figures by this same fault, and in
nearly every case the primary cause is
tight, dragging, uncomfortable Clothes.
The aching waist is squeezed byajust a
few more tugs at the corset lace until
the organs are forced ont of place,
pressed down and showed up and tor
tured into unnatural positions. while
the heavy skirt, haircloth lined and
sometimes ridiculonsly voluminous,
drags ON the back and hips, and the un-
fortunate, uncomfortable wretch who
serves as lay figure is forced to liter
ally "slump''-yes, slump is the only
word which expresses it-into an un-
graceful attitude, with the abdomen
thrust forward and the back rounded
out, while the whole weight of the
body is thrown on the hips. because she
is absolutely unable to stand any other
way.
But the fat woman will say, ''How
can we help it," She is truly in ter
ribly bad position, but it is not hope
less Exercise will keep down her flesh
to a great extent, but most women are
too indolent to apply this remedy. Even
those who possess slim, trim figures and
do not need a corset any more than a
dog needs two tails will pull the strings
till they cannot draw long breath any
more than the sphinx, to the everlasting
danger of their health and hapEsness
and the utter destruction of the SYM
metry and classical proportions of that
most beautiful of nature S creations, the
human form. Try health waist. There
are numerous makes. Among all of
them you will surely be suited. If you
are stout, have a number of buttons
sewed to the bottom of the waist. and
to these fasten ali your clothes. Then,
have your skirt securely fastened to the
waist. Two hooks at the back of the
waist belt, ~ inches apart, and CORE
spending eyes attached to the belt of
the dress, will make all secure and com
Portable. Use the hghtest weight lin
ings possible and avoid voluminous
skirts. You will be astonished to find
how much more comfort you will be
able to get out Of life and, as natural
sequence, how much more comfort your
family and friends will be able to get
out of it. M. E. CRossKILL
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
SIGNALING FROM MARS.
Possibility of Communications fropA
the Planet.

Possibility of Communications froDa
the Planet.
Any citizen who is tired of mundane
concerns, and wants to fix his mind on
something higher, is invited to consider
the allegation of Sir Francis Galton,
made in the London Fortnightly Re-
view, that tsome one on Mars is signalling
TO earth. The information seems not
as yet to be very gepertlly confirmed
by astronomical observers, but Sir
Francis is quoted as authority for the
report that in one of the European OBJ
servatories an apparatus has been de-
vised for recording the Martian flashes,
and that the record shows that three
signals and no more are made, and that
they differ, as all fash-light signals do,
in the length of the flashes and OF the
intervals between, so that If we had the
key they might read like telegraphic
messages.
OF course this is not yarn to be swal-
lowed whole, but the association of the
name of Sir Francis Galton with it is
enough to entitle it to consideration.
There seems to be no intrinsic impossi-
bility of our having relations with peo-
pie in Mars. It sounds preposterous, of
course, but, like. other marveis, it
seems preposterous chiefly because it is
unusual. We have to nudge ourselves
from time to time in this age of swift
surprises, and remind ourselves that
nothing that is new to us can possibly
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
DON'T TROUGH Up"

BEST Way of Taking Ninety-Nine
stitches I'm Time.
I Mending IS something that nearly
everyone has to do great deal of, often
or ENTHUSIASTICALLY as the case may be.
To mend rent neatly, to be good
darner, is an accomplishment that any
woman may be proud Of.
Silk dresses, which are SO apt to get
ugly three-cornered tears where the
skirts have caught on something, are
best mended with their own ravelings.
if made with spool silk, which is diff
feTently twisted from the warp of the
fabric. Carefully ravel out threads
long enough to sew with, draw the tear
together, and darn as neatly as possible;
then press with a heavy iron, not hot
enough to leave an imprint of its shape
or turn the color of the silk.
Never use a silk thread for mending
yroolen garments. 1t is impossible to
get exactly the same shades in silk and
woolen materials, and the silk thread
aresure to show and call attention TO thf
darn. Cotton is much better for the
purpose than silk and the rawlings OF
both. From the surplus pieces left
when the gown was made take one from
which you can ravel threads of about
ten or twelve inches, not longer. or you
will have trouble in pulling them in and
out, as they are sure to "rough-up.'
If the hole is very irregular or large,
haste it into as good shape as possible
with fine thread, it can be withdrawn
after the work is completed more easily
than 9, coarse one would be. A book
cover or piece of rasteboard laid under
the whole viii enable one to bring the
goods together smoothly and fatty. A
small piece of pasteboard held under the
rent while darning is as great help as
darning ball is to the heel of stock.
ing.
If two or more colors, as in mixed
goods, choose the predominating tint;
or two or three of the most prominent
colors, and use first a thread of one,
then another. The most troublesome
part is threading a needle with wool;
but, fortunately, needle holes do not
show in woolens as in silks, so one may
use very large-eyed needle. Weave
in and out, taking in" as deeply into
the sound edges as is needed to make
it firm; then weave across the other
way if 1t does not seem strong. The
ragged edges of hole should not be
trimmed for a darn, but weave the
stitches over and under SO as to hold
down each torn thread. Always darn
with the right side of the work upward,
so as to see that the threads are held
DOWN.. Y. journal
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24

reacn1ng naIT way up, anu from the top
Of that to the waist there were five mar
row ones.
Flounces are very much liked. One
pretty light india silk had three pinked
ruffaes Of plain taffeta matching the
groundwork. These ruffles were deeply
notched and then accordion plated.
The effect was unusually pretty. One
smoke gray etamine dress had II
Aounces, slightly gathered and each a
trif1e narrower than the one below. All
were edged by very narrow silk fringe,
exactly matching the stuff in color. The
waist was full blouse, with tiny
figaro edged with red and gray embroid-
cry. The shawl front overskirt is seen
in quite number of the newest gowns.
It differs from the skirt, which is laid
III folds or plaits. One dress of white
canvas in plaits had the oyerskirt of
fine dotted swiss, with an edging of en-
broidery and insertion The yoke was
made to match. The gingbam and other
cotton gowns are all made as simply as
those mentioned above.
For rather handscmer gowns for more
dressy occasions there is naturally more
elaborateness III the making. Bias folds
of the dress material laid ON skirts,
sleeves and waists are very much liked.
A white serge gown was made with ten
folds around the bottom and on the
sleeves Five were laid across the bust.
Accordion plating is very handsome in
the light colored nlohair brilliantines,
of which many are worn. One of deli
cate Quaker drab was plated all the
way around the skirt and also the whole
blouse waist. The belt and stock were
of plaid velvet
An elegant gown for visiting or car
riage is Of French gray Irish poplin,
with ruffles of china Grape embroidered
In green and gold and beaded with en-
broidery. The waist was draped acress
with china Grape and had full lace epau-
let's. 1t closed at the left side.
One very dressy gown for swell tea
or other function demanding elaborate
toilet was of a lavender and pink de-
sign on a silyery gray ground shot with
frosty green. There was narrow
"pinched'' ruf1e around the bottom.
The waist was of lavender satin en-
broidered with silver and green tinsel.
1t was cut away pinafore style and fill
ed in with white Grape. The sleeves
were of the taffeta.
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
ABOUT THE LAWN.

How TO Destroy Ants ts-SprinkIing and
Clipping.
The best thing to destroy ants is a
weak solution of carbon bisulphide.
Saturate sponge or piece of cotton
with it. bury it in the ground two or
three inches below the surface where
the ants are the most numerous The
gases from this will spread out in all
directions, and the odor is not only dis
tasteful to the insects, but poisonous.
The fumes will spread for a distance
of three or four feet in all directions,
and in short while an ant could not
be hired to inhabit the lawn.
Many people are not successful with
their lawns because they allow the clip
pings to remain on the ground.
This dead grass soon forms mat and
chokes off the growing grass-that is,
it keeps the sun from getting down to
the roots of the grass plants, and it gets
so much shade that it weakens the grass
and eventually thins it out so that in
awhile it becomes unsightly. The grass
should be caught in trailer while
being cut and carried away.
There is considerable danger in wa
tering the lawn too much, but the
greater danger lies in not giving suffi-
cient water and that at the right time.
The lawn should be watered either in
the morning or evening-eyening pre-
ferred. The water should be sprinkled
as nearly Ike natural rain as possible.
When applied with a hose without a
spraying apparatus, it is likely to come
with so much force as to tear the grass
out by its roots and stunt its growth.
Many people do not water their lawns
till the grass begins to die out. Then il
is too late for best results. The lawn
should be watered once every day. Care
should be taken not to drown the
grass, and yet it should be given suff-
cient water. There is no way of telling
just the right amount, and the person
will have to use his good common SENSE
in determining when there has beer
enough applied.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24

Many lawyers nowadays utterly dis
regard honor and honesty in the means
by which they elicit evidence or invah-
date the testimony of those opposed to
them, in illustration of which we need
only adduce the following specimen OF
cross-questioning:
Lawyer-Mr. Jenkins, will you have
the goodness to answer me, directly and
categorically, few plain questions2
Witness Certainly, sir.
''Well, Mr.. Jenkins, is there a female
living with you who is known in the
neighborhood as Mrs. Jenkins" ?"
There is
rs she under your protection?"
Yes
do you support herg"
II do."
Have you ever been married to her %
'tI have not" {Iere several jurors
scowled gloonily at Mr.. Jenkins.)
''That is all, Mr.. Jenkins"
Opposing Counsel-Stop moment,
Mr.. Jenkins. Is the female in question
your mother?
''She il. Boston Post.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
HE LIKED SAUSAGE.

A Tribute to the PalatabIenesS of
Mascerated Donkey.
One of the glories of the city Of
Lyons, which claims the attention and
admiration of every visitor, is an ar
tistic product of the butcher known as
saucisson de Lyon, or In English Lyon
sausage. 1t is made of donkey-raw
donkey-and no writer has celebrated
the astronomical excellence of this pa
tient, vexatious and often ill-used beast
with more delicate appreciation than
the late Philip Gilbert Hamerton, in
"Chapters on Animals"
"Of tie ass. when living, could not
say much that is wholly favorable, but
when he appears in the state of sau-
cisson he may be praised without the
slightest restriction.
I'm sections like dark-red marble
dashed with white, it may be cut to an
infnitesimal thinness, leaving a surface
smoother than the finest veneers. In
the mass it is closely wrapped in silvery
foil, to guard against the influences of
the air.
"In the sweetest associations of the
memory the saucisson has its place.
Weary after the mornings march, the
tourist takes it from his knapsack, and
lays upon his bread those dainty disks
which are its slices. The strength of
his youth comes back to him, and the
Alpine SHOWS no longer seem inacces-
sible.
''At the stateliest imperial banquet
the saucisson is not disdained. At the
pleasant picnic by the shady river it is
found in the welcome baskets. The
angler has it in his bag. the shooter in
his capacious pocket, the canoeist in his
Lilliputian cabin of stores.
"O-saucisson de Lyon. sad is the mo-
ment when we cast the skinny remnant
OF thee into the stream, but the little
fishes eongregate eagerly to the ban
qs.et. and ask each other what noble
Animal has yielded his flesh for their
fessting. Youths Companion.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24

2 A reward of $25 is offered by the
New York World for any linguist who
will translate the sugar schedule in the
new tariff bill into English that can be
understood Ii is said that the sugar
men understand it perfectly, and if they
do what business is it of others? The
Sugar trust is running the United
States senate at present, and it is hold
ing up all legislation until it gets what
it wants. If the people of this country
had chance to vote on the election of
United States senators, some Of the old
fossils in the senate would never be
heard Of again, Harrisburg Telegraph.
Republican Criticism of Taxed Hides.
According to the protective theory the
imposition of tax on noncompeting
articles adds to their cost to the con-
sumer This theory would be aptly ex-
emplified in the proposed duties ON
hides. as the people would be compelled
to pay more for their footwear. 1t is es-
timated that the increased cost of boots
and shoes for one year under the pro-
posed duty would amount to $40, 000,-
600. With free hides our manufacturers
of leather goods have been able to build
up great export trade in footwear AS
Mr. Blaine said when it was proposed
to put duty ON hides in the law of
1890, 8 1t will yield profit to the
butcher only-tho last man that needs
it. {" The interests of the tanners and
shoe manufacturers are vastly more
important than the interests of butch
ers and western ranchmen. Chicago
Times Herald, Republican.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-06-24
WAR ON YIYIsECTIoN. Il ON
Friends and Enemies Of the Prac-
tice Are Clashing.
The United states Senate Besieged
by Contending Factions-Emi-
nent Antis Making n yig-
orous Fight.

One of the hardest fights of the cen-
tury between the advocates of vivisec-
ton on the one side and it's opponents
on the other has been going on In the
United States senate committee on the
District of Columbia for two years, and
at present the antis are in the lead.
The bill introduced by Senator McAfil-
Ian restricting vivisection in the Dis
trict has been reported fayorably by the
committee. What the result of the con-
test in the house of representatives will
be remains to be seen.
The Mcmillan bill, after providing
that any person taking part in expert
ments calculated to give pain shall for
the first offense be punished by fine
of $3.50, and for the second offense a fine
of $500 and with Imprisonment for six
months, makes stringent provisions
under which vivisection can be carried
on.
There are to be regular inspections of
the places where the experiments are
held, and the president is required to
appoint the inspection officers.
The testimony taken by the committee
fills large printed book of nearly 200
pages. Arguments for and against the
measure were made by some of the
leading physicians, lawyers and public
men of the country. Reports from for
eign scientists and results of expert
ments also were filed with the commit
tee. Petitions containing the names of
scores of men and women of national
prominence were filed in favor of the
act. while memorials and resolutions
from dozens of medical societies and
medical men were presented In oppo-
sition to it.
Gen. and Mrs. Miles, Bishop Henry Y.
Satterlee, Mrs. q. S. Grant, Justices
Harlan, Brown, Brewer, White and
Peckham, of the United States supreme
court; Comptroller Eekels, Montgom-
cry Blair, Rev. DR.. Dix, the late Bishop
Phillips Brooks and half hundred ply
sicians were among those who sub
scribed to the bill.
These statements from the point OF
view of those who favor vivisection told
of the wonderful achievements result
ant from the practice and the extent to
hich mankind had been benefited by
them.
One of the most persistent forces OPP
Grating against vivisection is the So
ciety for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals. John p. Haines, superintend-
ent of the society, took leading part
in the fight for the bill. He said to
reporter for the World:
"I am opposed to vivsection because
/ do not think it right to torture living
animals, especially when the results
produced are of so doubtful a nature.
/ maintain that all needless expert
ments on living animals ought to be
prohibited; that the use of living ami
mails by students for the purpose Of
acquiring surgical dexterity is unnec-
essary. The repetition of experiments
before classes of students for the mere
purpose of demonstration is likewise
useless and ought to be prohibited.
The use of anaesthetics ought to be
required in every case in which they can
be applied."-N. Y. World.