The record-union., 1897-10-24

dered with rows of white and gold
braid; others are almost hidden by an
intricate arabesque or vermicelli design
in hand-braiding.
It is always the best, if one cannot
afford many rich or elegant gowns and
garments, to get a few of the best, and
turn away the eyes from temptations
in the way of the host of miscellaneous
pretty things that beset the shopper
on erery side, and firmly determine TO
fritter not a single dollar, but to con-
centrate all upon the one or two valu-
able and elegant articles particularly
desired One handsome tailor-made
costume is worth half a dozen bar
gain dresses put together by an indif-
ferent dressmaker. Also it is better to
pay good price for a. genuine all-wool
fabric of stylish pattern or rich self
color, and then silk line it, than to
make a happy 90 purchase at ''spe-
cial SALE" unless the buyer knows by
experience that she is getting valu-
able article at half rates for reason
known only to the business house at
which she is trading. A Silk-Hned skirt
looks better, hangs better, and feels
better than a cotton-lined one, and the
cost of an excellent silk for the pur-
pose is now not at all high or taxing
to one of moderate means, if one fol-
lows the saving plan in other directions.
Many years ago a sensible woman by
relinquishing other temptations in Win
ter dress purchased a very beautiful
fur long coat. This she wore for three
winters, then she had ii transformed
into a graceful coat, not by a furrier
proper, but by a former emplOye, who
did the work reasonably and most sue
cessfuIly. After good wear in its new
form, it was made into an Eton jacket,
with good-sized sleeves and a fiaring
collar and revers. This time the fur
was tipped apart and redyed This
winter the large sleeves have had
reefing, the revers made smaller, and
the short little garment looks wholly
up to date. Another year the best parts
will be cut up, probably into infinitesi-
NAL pieces to form a collar, cuffs and
edgings. So much for the value of a
garment that in price seemed extrava-
CANT when first purchased.
tunes will be worn this winter, partly
as an effective contrast to the very rich
colors that will prevail, and partly be-
cause of the beauty and novelty of the
new black materials and the greatly
! improved appearance of the more fa-
miliar weaves. English woolens are
! handsomer than they have ever been,
and those from the Priestly mills are
shown in exquisite and beautiful varie-
| ties. Beginning with the plain and
fancy camels hair fabrics and passing
on through the countless lines of wool
reps, eudoras, etamines, basket cloths,
| silky serges, crossed with lustrouS friSe
bars and stripes, the cashmeres of va
rious grades, dray d'ete, Henrietta
cloth, ladies cloth and a host of rich
| French and India textiles; something
elegant and attractive in black is pro-
vided for almost every garment and
every possible occasion.
The great rage just now is for the
Russian blouse both for street and
| house wear - for slender, youthful
maidens and matrons. There are also
any number of unique, attractive little
jackets-modificatio of the bolero and
other short, chic models so very ia
miliar for several years past. These are
braided or neatly covered with straight
rows of wide and narrow soutache, with
often a Figaro vest in addition, covered
with horizontal bands of braid and very
| charming and attractive do they look
upon their appropriate wearers, but
| they do not look either of these de-
| IfrrbT c,,1 -l,o
men far past their youth who have
| already elected for their wear. They
are certainly inappropriate, to use a
mild term.
Some of the new fur capes are made
very short and full on the shoulders,
and many models show a fur ruff1e and
standing collar attached to a rounding
yoke Of deep moss green, wine-colored
or golden brown velvet Other peler-
ines have inlaid yokes of jet, bronze, or
vari- -colored Persian beads, or the yoke
is nearly covered with rich, heavy-silk-
cord arabesque patterns en- applique
| In coat shapes for the winter both
semi-loose and fitted shapes are ia
vored. The collars are still the familiar
high standing brands, finished with
braided or braid edged tabs, crenelated
strips of velvet, fur r-bordered points and
other fancy shapes, formed and decor
ated to conform to the rest of the gar
ment. Most of the sleeves are very
small coat shapes, or else very much
reduced mutton-leg styles, finished
either with a flare at the wrists or
al h0o oIy
stitched cuff. The greatest novelty in
wraps, aside from the widely popular
Russian model, is the garment closely
fitted back and front, the jacket slight
ly pointed, and reaching only a trifle
below the waist line on the sides. Over
| the very close coat sleeves fall loose
| open circular bell sleeves, which are
silk-lined and decorated in various
ways to match the jacket trimmings.
| These little garments are designed to
| accompany g calling or church costume
or for other occasions for which a small
wrap is requisite. A few of these
wraps fasten on the left side and are
| trimmed across the front with two
rows OF rather large buttons, giving
the Jacket a double breasted effect.
These wraps are made of various ma
teriais, including velvet brocade. repped
silk, in heavy cording, or fine cloth.
with a handsome trimming of braiding
or passementerie, in conjunction with
fur.
Sac de raisin is a novelty from Paris.
and terms very effective blouses on
casnmeres and vailing skirts. vests for
linen gowns, and collars and revers
for linen and taffeta cloaks. It's col
| nrinu and dasicn iS n,.ior,+n1 "a -,