The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

daisies, pansies and lilies of the valley
have been so i'm approved as to make all those
made in the years gone by look very
ordinary.
One of the new models is black gauze
dress, with narrow satin stripes, tie skirt
plain III front, plisse at the back, edged
with d small gathered founce with pleatei
head; at the top of this skirt a wide
cream lace is laid on fiat, to simulate long
pointed basques; the same lace placed on
the bodice meets it in front and thus SIM
ulates long jacket front, drawn in with
white satin waistband with bow at the
back. The bodice has fiat back, and the
front plisse with yoke of lace. and epau-
lets OF three fiounces plisses oyer moyen-
age sleeves falling over the hand; high
white satin neckband with a small plisse
OF the same at the back. All the gauzs
of this dress is mounted over dark blue
silk. Another pattern dress is pearl gray
taffetas, the skirt plain and round, with
three small godets at the back, the lower
part of the skirt braided in large pat
tern with gold and silver braid, edged
with line OF gray gauze; the taffetas
bodice is covered with this gauze. striped
with gold and silver braid, yoke of the
same braided across with a pattern like
the skirt. Plain sleeves gathered at the
seams, the top formed by bouffant OF
three taffetas flounces edged with doubled
gauze. Neckband and waistband of ce rise
satin with enamel buckle, red and gold,
and two little cerise bows on the left side
in the gauze OF the bouffant.
Extremely dainty is a creation owned
by young woman with golden hair and
a complexion that would delight an ar
fist, so delicate are the tints. 1t is of
lettuce-green shade of mousseleine de
sole and sun pleated. White lace insertions
cut across the pleating, great skill being
shown i'll the particular direction which is
given to these lines, as it is quite possible,
merely by transverse lines of lace, TO &C.
centuare width at the shoulders and slen-
derness al the waist-likewlse to impart
some beautiful curves to the full skirt.
This dress is cut la redingote. By this
mean that it is an overdress with fronts
opening from front TO hem. The under
dress. which is perfectly en- evidence
whenever the wearer moves, is of white
India silk, pleated. At the throat the
green chiffon is turned back in the form
of deep shirred collar of the chiffon.
The waist is encircled with little belt of
white satin shaped TO the figure and
pointed al the back.
Laferriere is an undisputed authority,
so his advice is always valuable. Speak
ing of his firm correspondent states that
ii is busily employed in making up gren-
adine gauzes, light chine silks, and very
fine cashmere, with trimmings of white
EN- broidery in the guipure style, lace and
braided gallons. The skirts are not made
so wide, but always gored and plain at the
top, and are either plain or plisse soleil, or
with hounces according to the material
employ ed. The bodices have immense
revers, also BoIeros separate or inflated
with trim ming; some match the skirt,
others are quite different, but are made
bouffant in front, well drawn in toward
the waist, and finished with silk or velvet
bands OF a contrasting color. AS example,
plain round skirt of light wooden beige
had a vandyked pattern of narrow black
velvet round the hem, the bodice was en-
tirely different, made of orange taffetas
; glace, with white pleated; i'll the middle