The age-herald., 1897-10-03


 bones, strings of glass beads and the the celuoid anachrontsm; in the second various adornments i'm gemss lace and linen. Between these extremes, winding into eadg1 and having some of the quaai- ties of each, may be named the collar of mediaeval and modern knigihlhg-d, the knotted neckerchief of the bandit, the chain of servitude and the halter of punishment.
 Humanity has ever shown a strong impulse to bsdeck its neck. Civilization must not claim a regard for the cellar as its peculiar development, for barbarism
 gives Ilhenonaenal preraipenee to the adornment. Informal histhry Rnot yet twenty years old, has recordsd the un- affected surprise of the captive Zulu king to find that the papSr collar in which he was exufting wouh1 not be ac- cepted as a fun presentation da-es at Cape Castle. IA glance at the pictured ruins of Nineveh and Babylon and at Hle carved records of Memphis and Theb$s. shows that circl;ts, rich and fiamboyant, abounded both for neck and arm. The Hebrew Joseph haid a gold chain hung about his neck as the insignia of powSn,. The ornament was probably harmless as far as Joseph was concerned. but 1t set a perilous fashion. Eight centuries Eater we find Isaiah lamenting over tne chains and the bracelets and the muf- fiers'' with which the daughters or Je- ,l1saIem were friyolously adorning tlhefn- selves. As for three famous danes of myth and Poery-Helen, Penelope, Clytemnest trae-they doubtless shone at home in jeweled neck aces, while therr lords gleamed up and down the roagi m collars of mail. It may be here added that necklaces are irtterwovsn with the legendary tragedies elf Queen Guinevsfe and the glossy-throated Isolde, and with the modsrn tra gsidy of Marie Anso.nstte.
 Pictorial representations of Greece Tn its prime show a general scofn Of the coakar-as if statesmen and oratS-S would mot allow any hamper whatever put upon their eloquent throats But Macedon near at hand and Rome not far away, were, even then, forging a chain of servitude for the Hehenc neck.
 When in the fourth century before Christ, Titus Manlius slew gigant e Gaul, and transferred from the neck Of the dead to his own twisted c1nalh called a torque. he was thenceforth sa- luted as Torquatus- Thus we see that Celt and Latin alike gloried in the col- lar. They may have brought the fash aon-both famTie s-from the dim old nome stead Arya The lavish display of the Romans in general-disp1ay in personal aldornment, in banquats, Tn usements-thlroug the last days ct the republic and the ruinous course or the empire is a matter of well-knlown history. How the sword of usurpation- of injigna tion-fiashe3 among JeWeled necklaces and royal decorations through five Christian csntufies-through four teen rather-we have all read and heard.
 Chiva1ry made a man an esquire by investing him with cellar and spurs. ITO these equipments were aided, in the case of the full-grown knight, an entire shell of metal. In the development of hon cray kragllHhood the collar has been conspicuous badge of adoynment. Tire Order of Golden Pieces, founded at Brussels in 1430 by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, conferred upon it's mem bers a collar of steel with a flint sst- ting so bright as to appear to emit flames, Pendent to this framework hung the miniature figure of a sheep a device to suggsst the golden fleece res cued to Europe by Japan.
 Tine right to confer this famous collar has been, since 1700, the equal privilege of Engitand, Austria ard Spain.
 Tine Order of St. Michael preserved Splerl6ld cellar Lhlicugh I.is vic,ssi;uldeLs of Nolitune This order was suppreSS:d during the French revolution was re- stored by Louis XVIII, and, in lSSO, dame to an end. Ancther famous collar
  hhe greater and the lesssr George. The Order of Bath, the Order of the Elephan't and the Order of the Black Eagle all ofotha the neck with rekplendent glory. A collar mulch spaculated upon and rot yet understood as to its full significance, is known 10 history as the Ianeas trian $. $. The knightly orders of today slhlw in their parades and burial services a TegaIa conspacuou5 as to co.Iar.
 Ilhe sixteenth century may be taken as the boundary bei.ween the ancient and the modern collar.
 Catherine de Medfcl ruled as 10 ma tiers bf politics and religion through four reigns, these of lleir husband and three weak s0nis, FIi.ncs IL, Charles K, an1 Henry III.-and with her ruled Inc ruff. It is impc sSGble to think of this woman whether lles. head is lifted to the heav- ems i'm the study of the stars or bent to- wsa3 the earth in tEhe mixing of pcis- Ors-withous an tnvfls lme mt of Ghe N1edl- ci collar Spain adopted he fashion with gravity and aprarenlt mod sla'tioul Eng hani1 eyed it first els a vice. then endured i.-then leG it embrace her
 Tn tifo re.gil of Queen Elizabeth fhe Latin ruff c'Htai1lsd its grealtsst Anl3tfo- Saxon proportions. The gallants and ladies Htno gaihered around Henry III wore wire framed ruffs; ons- third of yard deep, tu. FTzabethIans We're, as a 1file, eont5ent with a spread of one-quar- ter cf a yard. As may be ina giEed courtiers--French and English-Ifound e,anqueting an inconvenient pleasure. Long +handlcd spoons clame into use as a fashionable neeestfity. For a time 'the stately arches of pride" ei,ood up, three or -four deep, supported by what g. sat irist of the age called "a master devil ruff'-ta friM stiffened with gold, silver, dace and jewels. If the satanic supports could nI0. be afforded jhe rufis were fas- tened ito the ears CT allowed to fall over bhe shoulders. like wirid-nill sails "l1verybody will have luh em,' mourns the satirist, "whduher they can afford tllm or net. No people is 90 curious in new fargles." And fhen he adds. more se- riously: fMorstrous ruffs@hree steps and a hIa'lf to dhe devil! God be merc.ful unto us.'
 The fashion, it must be remembered. erisfaved men as we'll as women. We would n.t know Sir Francis Drake or Sir Walter Raleigh if ',hc.r heads dd not rise from @ sea eff ruffs. As for Queen Elizabeth. some one has ssfld flrat half erer reputation mrsS be traced to her allff. At 'ilhe mention eff her name "a fig ure rises before us from oub the year 1S53-a figure with a hgh-sItarld. .ng, lace- edged ruff. spreading i'm o wired wings of