The Republican journal., 1897-07-01
interior Towns of Guatemala.


~. The third night of our leisurely
uoln Antigua, and the last before
d. this place, was spent in Totoni-
..-a city of 10000 souls, which
.ves more than passing mention. 1t
capital of the important depart
of Totonicapam, which is the
est as to area in the Republic, but
most densely populated, containing
inequalities and about 1872, 900 peo-
ur first view of Totonicapam town
ong be remembered. All day the
lad been rough and wild beyond
nrion, constantly ascending and
ding ravines and barrancas, gorges
mons which seemed to stretch be-
leaven and earth like the ladder Of
dream, But there the similitude
for the angels of the patriarch
were not on mule back. clad in
o.ored ulsters and big straw hats,
Jwn Salvation Army style! Some
while toiling up OF down an almost
ulieulaT incline, we looked through
5 in the dense woods that border
,a5h down precipices a thousand
usand feet deep, at the bottom of
al trees looked on a level with the
trent whose raging came to us in
umus. Oftenest we seemed to
some deep crevasses, rent by pre-
earthquakes to the very heart Of
gntan, whose wounded sides.
nee healed and verdure- covered,
~ high on either hand. Late in
uelu0on we came to the end of the
and saw Totonicapam, in the mid
Is magnificent plain-far, far be-
ehind It rises high, green mesa,
iand, from the middle of which
another range of purple noun
sud behind the mountains, the vol
Iuetzaltenango towers darkly
its top hidden in the clouds. The
sell spreads over a wide space, and
.lr eyrie its fiat roof looked like
We covering of dull red, pierced
4 there by church tower or the
If It cocoa palm. We rapidly de-
the hills to the banks of a beauti-
am-the Rio Salama-along which
women We're washing, standing
rep III the water, and naked chill
Ill ages and sizes, were having
oyal good time that the beholders
to Join them. Throwing them
ut on the ground at the head Of
assisted by many merry kick
sA from their companions they roll
and over, till-splash they went
river; then up they swarmed
rgardless of bumps upon the
and slaps with twists of wrung-
III in the hands OF irate mothers.
the performance. Following the
We reached the plaza and the So
tel of Totonicapam at nigAtfalI-
butt contented group OF travel
ar tested its hard beds and harder
1t is a busting town-for His
tmerica, probably owing to the
upply of ozone in its 5000 feet
AS everywhere in Guatemala,
Wdon includes the same superb
of Indians, which constitute
es." They packed the plaza in
.4-, gaudily dressed and chatter
comprehensive lingo; and early
m own start in the morning
Ns earlier 1t was market-day
eapam; and Jogging out of town.
ue sunrise, we met hundreds
Hasket-caIiers bringing in their
onarun, seemingly propelled,
dtons, by their swinging arms
ar hip movement. They go al
roves, the men 10y themselves,
Ivy themselves; and the picka-
Tough only five on six years old,
side as nimbly as their elders,
q basket ON its little bare head.
Ger people are invariably clean
ess, industrious and well-to- do,
,Ioud and reserved. While the
ncs of the Aztecs. q little farther
Inward, are the most polite and
people on earth, always hauling
eyed hats, wherever met, and
YOU with CHEEKY salutation,
.ag to 60 out of their way any
# miles to guide stranger,
ltches give you never look,
- aside to let you pass as if grudging
road to pale face; but among
rs they are merry enough, grin
ehattering like so many mon
nate is cold in this elevated por-
'natemala, and the products are
rotatoes, corn, oats; in short,
IF nose Of Illinois and Ohio, includ-
4.+ If our northern fruits and vege-
hes With the addition of coffee and
' t1e. Sheep, which furnish very
N'9i. are raised i'll large numbers.
4"4strious Inhabitants operate sew
'"e.ories, and make the best pottery
t7 found outside of Guadalaiara.
There are II government free
III the department of Totonicapam
# 'oys and for girls, indicating
'l Qar idea of the relative need of
't4 for the sexes) besides several