The times., 1897-06-20
WATERING PLACE CLOTHES.
Novelties for Shirt Waist and Sal
Tor Hat Weather.


to sleep their long sleep in camphor ind
newspapers But at last wash goods, shirt
waist and sailor hat weather has arrived,
and the importers, who track fashionable
women to their most secret Businesses, are
setting off for the watering places to
display exquisite novelties in French cot
ton gowns, along with special makeups Of
their own.
Now. TO the Partisan mind, the term
gingham does not necessarily suggest a
costume that can suffer u Tubing
Gallo taste insists that on cotton
foundation any material may be grated,
and that a gingham is neither truly
smart nor equal to long, arduous wear
unless it is based ON silk; therefore,
when really pretty French cotton
is purchased a gown suitable for use ON
the most safely occasions is the result
1t can be worn to calls, luncheons, lawn
parties, country weddings, when coach
ing, driving and attending church, and
at the end of the season it will probably
require q cleaning, and not a visit TO the
laundrcs5.
In consequence of this notion the
Partisan dressmaker can get up some very
elegant little toilets. She gives them all
thin taffeta undersSirts and docs not
hesitate to trim them with lace, velvet,
the most eccentrically pretty silk gimps
and spanglcs Of hsse neck decorations.
MANY are shown with accordion plated
skirts and a favorite fancy is TO Initiate,
with VARYING widths of satin ribbon, the
braiding now so popular on all pctticoats
But whatever else the scheme OF decoration
displays it must not fail to accentuate great
brilhancy of coloring.
This early in the season was the solemn
trade from Paris, and the mandate has
been successfully carried out on our side.
To aid the good cause the manufacturers
have turned out the majority OF the per-
Gales ginghams, lappets and prints IN
handsome vivid backgrounds OF radish red,
army and Alsatian blue puppies, ranging
from the deepest iris to the palest violet;
Chinese yellow and peacock green, bearing
wide and narrow stripes and checks in
white and black, big and little polka dots
or clusters of crescentS, darts, ribbon fig-
Cring, rings and sprays, all in some sharply
contrasting tint
On such foundations are heaped the gay
est of ribbons, an abundance of embroidery
and, in consequence, something like close
relationship S ma ntained with tie frVo-
Gus sun mer hat. a fine departure in the
way Of cotton novelties has been made
by the changeable gingham. andit is TO DE
recorded that very little lace is seen on
the strictly wash dresses. Embroidery is
all-pcrvadng the white lawn and brown
batiste edging and inserting taking prece-
dence, worked in two, three or as many as
five different coIors Naturally the greater
number of oolors emplo yed the more ex-
pensive the material, but none the less it is
lovely and desirable
But to turn to the practical side of
things, which is the making of these suits.
Where French examples in the use OF six
are followed, the skirts are usually made
on separate foundation. and something
near the proportions of a fad has arisen
FOR cutting out the neck OF the waist, TO
show yoke of contrasting color. Hereand
there very pretty overskirt appears.
RuffleS up to the waist and Vandyke points
on the hip are still in good grace, and a
last introduction is that Of running tiny
ruffles up the back widths only from waist
TO hem.
Now an oyerskirt is no inconvenience
when cut after the fashion showed in the
sketch of the striped red and white gown.
This is a gingham in the new hard bright
coat is solidly tinged as the skin Of a
freshly-pIicked radish, and the top drapery
falling in three points, two in front and
one behind, is widely barred with white
bands The sleeves Illustrate a new In
terpreta ton of the mousquetaire, fol
they are of solid red, above the elbow
with striped puffs falling over what look'
quite like the wrinkled length of a pair q
radish-colored gloves. pouched bodic'
of the striped goods is gathered about &
yoke of the solid color, and this constitute
almost an ideal was suit 1t is adapted
almost exclusively to the slenderlyhlIil
woman, but there is not whalebone used
the skirts need no sham, and on thcs
sensihlelinesth the strictly American CHAN
is made up.
Equally rrodish and suitable is the car
blue and white checked cotton. Very truth
fully king, this is a skirt and coat, {
be worn with a shirt waist. The tripl
collars, belt and pocket flaps on the skin
are made Of white linen, and big pear
buttons set off what is an irIeproachablt
suggestion for any out-of-doorS functiD
or for water parties.
What a French woman means by {
gingham is displayed in the cut Of th
Tuffled costume Its underskirt is CHI
nese yellow taffeta, and on to this ar
set graduated ruffles Of alsatian blu'
cotton, frightened with polka cots of Chi
nese yellow silk. Chain stitching of yel
low silk is what holds the polka dots in plac
and bias bands Of silk, in the same colo
form the giIdle and collar. Again a yok
is to the fore, a yoke of yellow silk EN-
broidery, and this pretty suit, woin witt
hat Of blue straw, trimmed with yeilo'
roses and blue plumes, testifies o the Frencl
woman's assertion that gingham, whe
rightly treated, is worth as much as a 81
gown any day
OF course, it is worth a deal more
the feruinine entity in short skirts, who's
natural summer plumageis gingham, thoug
it must not be SO garish an effect of col'
as she could wear Were her years and he
skirts both longer. As it is, however, in
solid, rosy red cotton, she shows yokel lik
her elder sister, made of alternate puff
of white lawn and bands of white CT
bro6sry. Her basque ruffles are Of whit
lawn necdlework, and four bands OF II
serting on her skirt match the enbroider
OF her yoke. This emInently is was
dress, adaptable TO girl of eight or eleve
years, who wears her curls after the FrenC
fashion. with noeuds Of taffeta ribbon,
match her gown, catching two curls t
gether just above either ear.
With the changeable cotton costum'
which is perfectly washable, even IL
Is in two colors, is worn, both the sail