Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-04-25
FASHIONS DICTATES.
sILKEN rOPLry SUDDENLY STEPS
INTO THE FRONT RANK.
!OUAYE JACKET IN A NEW GUISE.
Four Popular styles of CoiIars-uow
10 Make tho Sun-PIcatcd skirt-The
Latest for Dress Fronts and Trim
minGs. la fyyY4St.I
Correspondence OF tho DIsnatoh1

W. &C iNttNAilNN VI INC lllc1AtfH.1
NEW YORK, April 2L-Our old friend,
The silkcn poplin. has become popular
again. il is many "a year since Il occu-
pied this position IN the fashionable
world. but now II seems TO be. as the the
strcal people say. in for a run. a
watcrod six poRin cut into small checks
in cream and brown. white and black.
gray and white. and in other colors. such
As dark blue and red or mauve and cream.
is extremely smart. 1t will furnish very
natty dresses, when trimmed with vel
vet and embroidery, or. more novel still,
with the metallic embroidery.
IL has also come 10 pass that linen
dresses are very Fashionable. These are
trimmed with incrustauons Of guipure
over a transparent lining Of contrasting
Colorc1 silks. notice that with the ccru
or ripe corn colorcd lnon. Nile green,
pale blue. or deep rose color look ex-
trcmc,y we'll The waist and collar band
Ihoud be tied with similar colorcd tat
,ctas giace.
a novel feature Of tho tailor-made cos
Gmes this spring is a smart little Zouave
hcket worn over a fancy silk blouse or
perfectiy-ftung waistcoat. These Zou-
ives arc cut in several ways, but the new
)st Sc very tight-htting. and the front
).eccs are cut in slantug points. They
ire edged with fancy nch-wide braid. the
Ceeyes and color being ornameniod 10
match. Another style has very wide re-
tcrs OF q contrasting colored CLOTH Ciabo-
ntely braided with an inch-wide band Of
velvet. This latter looks very we'll in
decd and a corresponding trimming on
the pockets Of the skirt is an improve
mcnt 4 smart Zouave has collar, cuffs.
and tho deep wide point reaching TO the
waist both back and front Of white cloth.
braided with blue. the rest OF the jacket
being OF Royal blue cloth. Another pref
o. Zouave jacket forms n part of
cycling suit. The material IS Of cinna-
mon cloth Of light make. This IS not un-
like the Elton jacket and shows the neat
white cloth waistcoat with its close set
hue Of gilt stud buttons.
NEW WALKING SKIRTS.
All the new walking skirts are Jnel
with q now material called moirette. 1t
comes Ga all coors. from palest 20 dark
est shade. Another new feature IS the
beautiful fancy checked silks i'm all cOlors
Tor coat and jacket Innings, being taste
fully chosen TO correspond with the tone
Of tho material. A very new material
consists of striped Venetian cloth. the
stripes being only a broad stripe of color.
such AS chocolate with q hehOtrope line,
p dark green with the light or Royal
tlue with black. The face cloths are In
new shades with n sort OF granite effect.
Then there are tweeds with dimly marked
checks I'm various colors and some light
cashmere cloth for travelling or cool sum-
dark 20 light. These latter are TO take the
Place Of tho alpacas Of last season. There
are some pretty white and colored bro
Caded piques for summer waistcoats, as
well as some warmer twills
The modistcs say that the "Jupe SOlcil"
or sun-ploated skirt, Will be all the rage
the coming season. II is a relief TO know,
however. that no pattern whatever IS re-
Quired for this expand ng style. As a mat
Ter of fact. this skirt is an old friend. /
which was introduced AZ the same time as I.
ACCORDION pleating OF which IL is clever /
adaptation. No one liked it at first and it !
has been forgotten by the public but since /
then the or ginal diagram Of the inven-
ton, showing a circle Of radiating lines on
n square with a plain space in the centre
has remained IN the mind Of the modiste
a mcdium-sized skirt made In this fash
ION takes a length Of material of about
two and fiye-siXths yards by two and six
seventies yards, folded into an exact
square. 1t is almost instantaneously
stroaked with formal and tapering stripes
by means Of q special ACCORDION pleating
machine. heated either by gas or steam, !
and thus describes the ribbed circle or |
wheel compared 10 the rays OF the sun. |
When this pressing has been satisfactO- |
rily accomplished the little mound in the !
centre is cut off for the waist opening. |
Each corner Of the square is gently round |
Cd and then the work. thus recalling a |
carefully mounted This sort Of pleating |
q utilized for Princess gowns. long wraps,
and bodicfs. ACCORDION pleating will be |
moro than ever in vogue this spring and
the coming summer.
RICH EMBROIDERY.
a great many materials covered with
rlch embroidery are being prepared for
tn fronts Of skirts and for dress trim
uings generally. Guipure worked in CO.
lorel cotton will be much used and many
of tho transparent glass cloths with pref
~ Pompadour bouquets will add their (
quota 20 dress ornamentatiOn. ACCORDION
: Gated lisses are 10 be plentfuly employ
&c as cascades on the skirts and bodices,
and coarse white canvases of various J
kinds worked in the faded coorings of
long ago. cannot fail to be greatly in de-
mard as hOunccs, boleros, and other trim
mines. There IS a beautiful range OF trim
ming worked in panlettos which closely
resemble the believing garnishes, and
black scqu.ns laid closely over one an