Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1897-12-31

have seen the Bayou Teche country in
Louisiana, the Shenandoah valley in
Virginia, the Cumbres de Maltrata and
the glades and mountain sides OF Cor
dova. in Mexico, but nothing compare
bile to the districts between Hayana
AMI PIMA del Rio city, considered with
reference to its adaptability to agricul-
turc, has ever met my eye. | passed
through fields of sorgbum-which they
use here for feed-through plantations
of corn, tobacco, pineapples, with here
and there a spread of sugar cane. Every
mile or TWO there was running stream
of clear water, babbllng over rocks.
Then there would come long stretches
OF royal palms, shooting up bare and
ing out into prodigious buncLeS of del
icate feathery foliage, producing the
effect of gigantic ostrich plumes.
These palms, in many instances had
been planted Systematically, making
gorgeous avenues that led to sugar
planters houses, now in ruins by the
insurgents torches. Occasionally l
would see residences and factories in
the distance, still unframed. These be-
long TO persons who have seen fit to
pay tribute to the Cuban patriots. )"
This for 40 miles or so, almost to Arte-
mIsa, which is near the boundary line
between Havana and Plnar del Rio
provinces
After passing Artemisa. there is a
stretch of country which has not been
, cultivated for years, except in widely
scattering patches. These are rich pas
ture lands where herds of cattle were
fatlened on the lush grasses that there
abound. Large numbers of the beeves
have been driven of or wantonly de-
stroyed by the insurgents, but there
are hundreds left, and now they Craze
in peace. Then we came into the to-
bacco lands of Pinar del Rio-the
orld-temed Nuelta Abajo--- where In
clan, Gener, and hundred other re.
nouned merchants and manufacturers
of cigars have their plantations or buy
their raw material. Here, excepting
the occasional ruins of some hut or
more pretentious dwelling, there is not
vestige of war. Every valley and
hillside, as far as you can Sc, smiles
with harvests, and all the land bustles
with peaceful and civilized activity.
The burned hamlets and villages haye
been renewed, aud one can with diff.
Guilty realize that there has been war
there within the generation.
SMART CITY.
Pinar del Rio, the end of the line, is
about the smartest little city have
seen in many a day. 1t boasts about
5000 inhabitants, it has three or four
excellent hotels fine electric plant,
splendid government building, hand
some residences. charming plaza, eX-
cellent hospitals, and the most amable
ight-hearted, we'll behaved population
have encountered IN my various tray
els. The Hotel Ricardo, where put
up, has thoroughly delightful host
and an admirable chef de cuisine, at
| tcntive walters, and a completely equip
ped bar. | ran against no eXtortion, |
was held up for no tips, got iirst-class
entertainment and paid tirSt-class prices
for it. There were high-grade wines
OF every kind, French brandy, Scotch
whiskey, German beer, etc, to drink,
and | had for dinner a chateaubriand
with trufIles, Bordelaise that Boldt or
D,lmonco would have been proud to
serve. After dinner louuged about
the plaza, and heard an admirable
band discoursng most delightful Span
ish music-more dainty and delicate
even, than the now notorious Zum Zum
DANA which Reginald De koven heard
at the Abb club in Washington, and
afterward remembered. All around me
were throngs of people, old men and
children. young men and madens,
laughing, flirting, gossiping, Idle, hap
py, free of care, and if there were in
surgents in that neighborhood they
must have been hiding far away in the
hills that made the sky line to the west,
waiting for honest folk to 90 to sleep 50
That they might steal pig.
MUCH SUFFERING.
This is no fancy picture. 1t is the
solemn truth. The country through
which ! passed is exactly as represent
1t. As I have already said, saw evil
/ 4. 800 .