Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-18
MEMS WINTER FASHIONS
Rules and Regulations for Proper Dress Com
binations
The Three Kinds Of Tics That Are
Some Timely ..Don'ts.
From Harpcr's B.lzar.

From Harpcrs Bazar.
The New York horse show. with it's nj
tendant cycle OF similar exhibitions in other
cities the Thanksgiving college games and
the holidays generally. are the most potent
influences Oh mems fashions Ii Is only at
ter horse show week in New York that
tailors and haberdash ers are actually s,,ra
Of results The ''horsy'' and colIege-hov
clements are apt to be a bit flamboyant in
style. hut these characteristics are soon
merged into more conservative methods,
and the dress Of the winter Is practically
resolved before a fortnight
Ties are the first consideration The ties
OF this season may be divided into three
dominant styles. The first rs the always
popular four-in-hand This winter solid
colors are the favorites. With frock coat,
ana for afternoon calling. teas and church,
white is greatly in vogue. The ties are OF
pIaln white or China silk. and the knot or
bow Is made right under the collar, small
with the long ends narrow. Black dark
red and marine blue are other fashiona olt.
tints. a species of four-in-hand OF a very
light silk, tied with small bow or knot ana
with flowing ends, is Yet another variation
Some of these are in deep blue. with small
while figures of the usual design-squar,s
dots. large and small circles and tiny flow
ers-whlch are associated with foulards and
I'll
may be described as ''crinkly."
The Ascot.
The fashionable waistcoat in these days
is cut almost in clerical style and so high
as TO give but little glimpse of the shir.
and tie. This is a complete revolution
from last year In consequence the far
Ascot, the second of the prevailing scarfs
OF the year, has taken new lease of life
White is worn on seTi-dreSs casions, vet
the English solid blues, green's dark reds
and heliotropeS, with the conventional
white figure very small are chic and smart
AT lhe horse show several men who have
The reputation of being well dressed aired
these in rather bright reds, and Others
again in pure white, the material duck and
stiIly starched The aprons as the two
v ide ends Of the Ascot are called, are fas-
tened with tie or cravat pm very near
the neck of the collar, 50 as to leave a very
small of silk. The puff is "A variation of
the Ascot, and is to be seen sometimes
The Butterfly.
The third tie is the small club bow some
times called the butterfly These this win
ter are proper with the highland turn
down collars, and the bow or knot is made
so very small. tight and compact as to
a rumor that the wcarers adjust
them with tweeZers. IL requires no mean
skill to be able to make tie look as If IL
were ready made and not done by ones
self, and then rejoice in the consciousness
that it is your own work-a double salts
faction, mental and physical
The evening white lawn tie is a little
larger. but on the butterfly plan. The col
creu ties for evening wear promised have
hot seen their fulhllment. Black satin for
Tuxedo. white lawn for evening drcss-thIs
is the established rule and AN inversion of
it is an absolute infraction of the canons of
good taste.
Fashionable wafstcoats.
And so much for neckwear. Waistcoats
these days have become a matter OF some
attention. The waistcoat for evening wear
is bit higher, and the U-shape is the one
in vogue. White duck, pique and Marseilles
waistcoats are seen in great profusion at
dances. They are double-breasted with
plain buttons. The metal and ieweled af-
Fairs affected by some men are loud and in
wretched form. They should he relepatei
TO the obscurity now enveloping velvet COL
Jared and cuffed evening and frock coats
Fawn and brown wastcoats, with small
figures. cut very high, u shape are favor
ties with frock coats, and white ones are
even worn, cut in the same fashion, and
seem to be the speciality of the Londoner
and his imitator in dress from Paris
Gloves are comparatively unchanged in
style. The brown kid and dog skin are now
more in favor than a year ago but the
gray undressed kid is still worn by many
Well-dressed men. For the evening white
KIDS with black stitching are in vogue and
also at afternoon weddings and receptions
This is ar Importation from London.
In collars, as in scarfs, three styles pre-
vail. For morning the high-band turn
down. with which is worn either the small
butterfly bow or the narrow solid-colorei
tour-in-h hand; for the afternoon or with
trock coat a straight standing collar with
ends little turned, to form a small
opening at the neck; and in the evening a
tall straight standing collar.
a Few Don.ts
few don'ts with this new order of things
are necessary. Don't, Il rule. wear a
butterfly bow, unless it is the white lawn
one to be used in the evening with your
evening suit, with a standing collar 1t is
the one to be seen with the turn-down high
band. Don't wear Ascots with turn-down
collars. Don't wear a turn-down collar
with frock coat. and consequently the
Ascot and four-in-hand, and not the butter
fly bow, are the proper ties with that gar
ment. In concluding these don'ts. from the
transsressing of many axioms of good
dressing witnessed at the horse show, il is
not amiss 10 call attention to the fact that
under no circumstances should "A white
waistcoat be worn with dinner jacket or
Tuxedo, that black shirt buttons with either
IuNedo or evening dress are lugubrious and
hldeous, that watch chains are not to be
seen with evening dress, and that a covert
coat is TO be worn over a sack suit, and
not over a frock coat or cutaway.
Attention TO very small details makes the
difference between the elegantly dressed
man, who is always prepared for an occa-
sion. and the addressed person whose