The Republican journal., 1897-09-16
New York Fashions.
Fall and Winter Millinery. "Tam O'shanter',
Crowns. New Wool Fabrics. styles in Making.

CO0rS.
Correspondence of The journal.
In looking over fall and winter millinery,
one is Immediately impressed with the
predominence of velvet and chenille; and
the latter, interviewer with "satin Braid
straw in hundreds of different designs
from one to four inches wide to be sewn
together in fancy shapes, forms the basis
of many stylish hats. Another lovely
millinery material is os inch and a half
three rows of chenille concealing the
seam, and being very pliable it is readily
fashioned into any desired style. 1t comes
in two crown pieces or braids; and still
more beautiful is the combination of
mousseline- de- sole and chenille, usually
of one color. "Tam O'Shanters'' made
of either material, and drawn high on one
side with jaunty feather, will heighten
the loneliness Of fair faces, and moditica-
lions of this style with brims constitute
the irregular outlines so becoming to
older persons.
SOFT CROWNS
will be almost universal, if the number
and variety of spangled velvet crowns now
exhibited are any criterion, and tasteful
contrasts are the prevailing idea Plain
velvet enjoys immense favor supplemented
by ostrich feathers and plumage of
every kind, especially ecru and brown
combined, as in pheasant or owl feathers.
and the same fancy is carried out in beads
and spangles on black velvet crowns. Felt
hats bear the proportion to velvet of about
one to twenty. and those few are weighed
down with velvet and plumes. Large
or small steel buckles are equally useful,
and in the way of flowers only the largest
roses or orchids are in demand
THE MOST ATTRACTIVE NOVELTY
in wool dress fabrics is bordered dress
lengths of seven yards, having either satin
stripes or gay Scotch plaid borders, the
latter so wide as to suggest the possibility
of waist being made of the plaid with
skirt of the plain material. As is usual at
this season plaids are up again, and al
though lovely combinations of crimson
and black attract ones fancy, or those in
other colors shaded by black camel's hair
yet the prudent shopper will remember to
how few plaids are really suitable and how
pronounced plaid costume always is:
but even if new fashions are aluring the
garments belonging to waning season
should be looked after, and soon now all
good managers will have their colored
embroidered batiste or organdy dresses
and waists washed with ivory soap and
laid away, thus ensuring their bright col
ors or pale shades for another season.
PLAIN MATERIALS
enjoy renewed prestige, and broadcloth,
camels hair, wool surahs with satin
tinish) cheviot serges, and in fact all plain
colored stuffs, are in such beauty and va
riety that scarcely doubt can be felt as
to their firm footing for this season at
least.
Much is expected of fancy black passe-
menteries, or braiding as it is called this
season, and certainly nothing can be more
appropriate for plain fabrics, vet it was
not success last spring. New illustra-
tons show braiding even on plaids. with
skirts and sleeves just about as they now
are, but in dresses made of bordered fab
RIGS in several cases the border runs up
the side, sometimes to the shoulder, and
also trims the sleeve cap and lower sleeve.
great many loose fronts are noticeable
in these illustrations, but it is still too
early to be absolutely sure as to Fashion
caprices.
THE OLD FASHIONED
shade of blue has been revived, which
should be good news for everybody, as it
is so generally becoming, and the only
color which can lay any claim to novelty
is light shade of "Jockey Club, - the
blush purple introduced last spring. The
brown shades are prominent, crimson
holds its own, cerise is always welcome,
and green occupies large territory.
Brunettes would be in despair without
pink, and this charming color enlivens
new gray. Black and white placed to-
gether are particularly stylish in millin-
cry, where the range of color is always
widest, and sharp contrasts as rule
have given place to several shades of one
color, or delicate combinations,