The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1897-01-14


For the wander thirst Is on me
And my soul is in Cathay.
There's schooner In the ofling.
With her topsails shot with fire.
And my heart has gone aboard her
For the Islands Of Desire.
1mnst forth again tomorrow,
With the sunset must be
Hul-down on the trail of rapture,
In the wonder of the sea.
Richard Horey in The Daily Taller.
**
would do what pleased, and, doing what
pleased. I should have my will. and, having
my will, / should be contented and, when one
is contented, there is no moro to be desired |;
and when there is no more to be desired, there
is an end Of it.-Cerrantes.
Apropos of the New Year and our resolutions,
it is we'll to remember George Eliots What
should we do without the calendar when we
want to put off q disagreeable duty?" The
admirable arrangements of the solar system by
which our time is measured always supply us
with a term before which it is hardly worth
while to set about anything to which We are
disinclined.
M
Twenty working women of New York have
organized q successful Business Women's
Gymnasium Club" Most of the members are
typewriters, bookkeepers or clerks, who have
little chance for exercise.
80
Tke question has been asked: If woman had
her choice between naturally curly hair" and
the Suffrage. which blessing would she take?
x*x
With the black velvet coat, the quaint dam.
eel wears a black satin skirt, bright below
cred waist and big black velvet hat all mid.
nodding with feathers.
Now York beauties are now affecting the
black lace mantilla that the Spanish girls wear
SO gracefully, and surely it is pretty fashion
and most becoming.
II
The city shops are even now beginning to
show organizes, dimities aud lawns.
~
The black.and. white dimities and batistes
with fine. close patterns are exceedingly neat
and pretty when made up with black ribbons
and white lace.
It is just as we'll to take advantage of any
bargains in pretty ribbons, for they will be
needed for the Summer frocks. A new scheme
for trimming is to use ribbon knots and bands
and bows OF two shades of color, or to use
white with color. Lavender shades are
especially pretty, or green and white ribbons
knotted together.
-
January is the usual month for planning
Summer frocks. and it is not out of place to
suggest that fine tncks (either up and down or
crosswise) will be much used in fashioning
gowns for the Summer Of 1897.
~
Indeed, tucks, though as old Is tho hills, are
as stylish as stylish, as kipling would say if he
were writing fashion notes. Black satin blouses
tucked across the full front aud right across
the sleeves are quite the "swaggerest" of black
satin blouses..
~
One can be very glad of smaller sleeves and
narrower skirts, but when it comes to tight
sleeves and draped skirts, then it's fitting for
woman to rebel.
x**
Artificial flowers are used good deal for
trimming for evening frocks.
49,
In the Century for December we get glimpse
of girls and their gowns, some half century
ago, and it is so unlike to-day that it seems we'll
to reprint it here:
In general all was rose-colored to the two
~. IT -
launched into society with every advantage
which youth, cultivation, beauty, and high
connections can bestow. Riches they did not
possess, but they were too happy to care for
that. Their wardrobe strikes one as having
been decidedly limited, but at that time it was
held that simplicity should rule the attire of
all young girls. SO they did not feel abashed in
the fresh, sheer white India muslin gowns re.
lieved with broad sashes which we're their only
evening wear. These were made with low,
squarec necks and full sleeves gathered into
puff little above the elbow.
The so-calied Empire styles were then preva.
lent. and probably in an exaggerated form.
as is apt to be the case when fashions have to
be copied at distance not only of thousands
OF miles. but also of year or more of time.
The skirts were short. showing not only the
thin slipper, but the clocked silk stockings well
above the ankle, aud were very scant that
it required skill to dance in them without
rending the slight fabric Neither of the sis.
tiers had silk dress. Gowns Of that material
were hardly considered suitable for unmarried
women under 25 years of age.
Gowns Of pretty lowered chintz were worn
| at home, except in extremely cold weather.
when heavy but soft material known "a
"stuff" was permitted. For driving or walk.
| ing each sister had gown of dark. crimson
| broadcloth. These were made with close
sleeves coming little below the elbow, where.
as well as around the neck and the bottom of
the skirt, was an edging of swans down.
changed later in the season for border Of
marten fur. Long pelisses Of crimson cloth.
lined and trimmed with the marten fur, and
the great mufs end tippets Of the same, were
worn i'll all suitable weather. The crimson
velvet bOnnets were large and SCOOP. like
things, adorned with an abundance of white
ostrich plumes, but not by any means as ex-
aggerated in size a. those worn q few years
later.
x%*
Edward Atkinson, in q recent article. claims
that woman is the obstacle to progress in max.
ing the home as comfortable and economical "a
it should be in these days of invention. For
dozen or so years Mr.. Atkinson has been per.
fecting his Aladdin oven." and has now given
the invention to the public, SO that the cost Of
the oven is only in the actual price of its mate
| rails aud its making-from SIS to $50, be-
lieve This oven is generally conceded to cook
foods in the easiest, cheapest way. and to rem.