The herald., 1897-05-02
HAIR DRESSING
To Be High and Above
Back of Head
A RIVAL TO THE BoLER0
WHAT BICYCLE GIRLS SHOULD
WEAR
A RIVAL TO THE soLERo
A Charming idea in Parasols-Droop-
ing Brims for the Latest Hats.
Various Shapes in Bonnets

true that the fashionable style of hair
dressing Is to be modification Of that
which prevailed previous to 1887. There
will be q high dressing Of hair above
the head. especially for the house and for
the evening, but not a severe division
down the center Of the front with monot-
onous straightness on either side. There
will still be loose tendrils Of hair over the
forehead. as well as undulations
This being so. the high loops, or even
properly defined bows Of hair at the back
OF the head, prove distinguished looking
and becoming to most faces, and make
q very pleasant change from the some
what loose, careless-looking erections
which have for some time past been in
vogue. We may also be prepared for the
wearing Of colored ribbons and ostrich
plumes in the coiffure. For some time
past this method of weaving line of
eclor into chic coiffure has been gain
ing ground, and I hear that quite the
smartest thing for the coming season
will be strings OF pearls and diamonds
cieverly woven in and out through the
hair, while plumes will be worn at the
top Of the head. But though our hair ar
Irangements may be less fluffy, they will
lAOI US udIu VI bCtCIC, dA0 1OI ouCA OA
US az the new style does not entirely suit
It may be modified sufficiently to suit
the Individual, and yet preserve the char
acteristcs Of the prevailing mode.
The moujik as a spring coat bodice is
as much q fact accomplished as the bo-
'lero. Eton and mess Jackets, 1t Is really
a clever adaptation of q Russian mou-
,jik's tunic, and Is. when well cut, one of
the most becoming Of garments, espe-
cially to slight figure. AS rule 1t
matches the costume. but when made Of
velvet 1t looks remarkably we'll with any
kind Of skirt. One made Of purple velvet
and finished with design Of black lace
braid applique, the belt of black moirc
drawn into Jet buckle, and with a high
collar also braided. and pretty. soft
jabot Of silk muslin and lace, was worn
over q violet cashmere skirt and the ef-
feet was excellent
Another whole dress was made Of
pigeon breast gray cashmere, the skirt
being finished round the hem with a de-
sign in cream colored satin ribbon, the
edges crimped outward in a particularly
pretty way The moujik was of the same
material, trimmed with ribbon applied
in q like manner. 1t was beautifully cut.
giving the idea of looseness by dropping
q tiny bit over the tight belt at the back
while the basque below the belt fell quite
fatty. Some of the moujiks are made to
show vests and others have the basque
tabs, but these Of course are not the gar
ments proper.
Some of the smartest cycling costumes
have braided skirts. The braiding Is ap-
piled In tapering points from the waist
downward, rather than from the hem
upward, as this looks much better on
The machine. Such skirt has just been
made for lady who rides green enam-
hled bicycle bearing her monogram and
motto emblazoned on the tube OF the
handle bar, which is the smart thing to
have done Her costume is green cloth.
light and smooth surfaced 1t is braided
in black and gold in long tapering points
in trefoils above the knees.
The coat is Of similar cloth and Eton
shaped, with lines Of black and gold up
the sides as If in continuation of those
on the skirt. The cuffs are braided and
the lapels edged with braiding, while
the collar Is faced with velvet. A tightly
fitting white pique vest is worn with
pearl buttons, and wide brimmed.
rather high crowned hat Of green rush
rtraw, trimmed with green shot moire
ribbon and chiffon and large cluster Of
mignonette and white carnations at one
side completes the charming whole.
The new parasols are in better style
than those Of last year and charm by
their simplicity. Striped chine silks on
white grounds with pink interviewer vel
vet striped are lined inside with thin
pink silk, and have double frillings Of
butter tinted lace. The handles are most
original, some taking the form of small
metal or china painted balls, while 9TH
ers have green painted handles with gold
tops Many Of the newest models are re-
turning to the early Victorian style and
have deep fringe. Bright poppy red silk
will be much worn and will give pref
ty dash Of color In the promenades. Quite
new departure Is the use Of applique
in sets Of four rows starting
from the top Of the parasol close togeth-
er, and then widening and radiating
toward the edge, the ground being shot
glace silk. From Vienna come the new
est notions ae to handles and these in
clude we'll modelled, rosy checked ap-
pie. Gimp buttons Of large size, with
cord. are now used to keep the ribs to-
gether, and tops in well modelled ele-
plants heads and snakes are among the
novelties. Tassels are also employed.
The newest hats have the brims
dropping over the ears. The effect is
quaint and very becoming. the straws
to which this style is most applicable
being those of Leghorn or Panama.
There are groups of flowers under the
brim at the back, and the crown is
trimmed either with chiffon and ostrich
feathers, or with flowers. or with both.
One in particular had black chiffon
folded around the crown, a high aigrette |
of black ostrich feathers on one side.
with a great group of gaily hued tulips !
at the base, while behind. under the |
brim, were punches Of primroses and |
violets.
Bonnets are again Of sensible size,
and Of their shape 1t can indeed be said
that 1t has the charm of infinite variety. |
There are several very large straw |
shapes which. are. .bewitchingly becom-
ing to some faces, especially young
ones. but this style Will be the exception
rather than the rule.
Buckles are very much in evidence
this season, and the novelties this spring
take the general form of the buckle
used in harnesses. This variety of
buckle II very simple In construction.
but it, possibilities In the way Of ar