St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1897-03-12


building, bright saying which quickly
went the rounds of the dlnng'rooh'
After hurried breakfast we were al
low ed an hour on land.
The city gave us our first glimpse OF
oriental life. Here was the dark-skinned
Moor ready to skin the American tour
ist who ventured in his bazaar; the cruel
Turk with his baggy blue trousers and
red head scarf; the East Indian merchant,
and nothing to remind one OF the tact
that he was in an English city where, as
nv free silver Vermont friend found
chance to note in his diary, the remark
of store keeper, that American silver
was as good as British gold Later
when he tried to pass three Spanish
silver dollars he found that there is silver
and silver, and that it makes quite
difference whether a country is on gold
or silver standard.
Pages could be written on the interest
ing street scenes noticed in one hours
drive. In front of the postoffice, large
and palatial structure, saw a dog
catching a live mouse. On one OF the
many crooked side streets one OF our
party saw some monkeys. These are
allowed the freedom of the city and here
is the only place in Spain where they can
be found. In one corner of the street
native was herding turkeys and in an
other corner we saw the little donkeys
loaded with live geese and hens. The
flowers were all in bloom in the park,
narcissus, heliotrope, callas and many
others, while right out of bower OF
blossoms would be seen the nose OF an
80 or even an 100 ton gun.
OF course it is the military side OF the
rock that is most interesting and there
is so much concealed that little can be
said along these lines. The neutral
ground interested me the most. On the
side towards the rock it is patroled
night and day by English soldiers, A
Scotch Highlander regiment is now do
ing this duty and they are magnlhcently
formed soldiers whose striking uniforms
and bare legs add wonderful pictur'
esqueuess to the scene. On the other
side of the campus is the Spanish sentry
who are just as faithful in their patrol
duty. Between the two is neutral
ground, and lest it should ever be in
vaded by hostile foe it is all under
mined with torpedoes and other eXplo-
sives, ready to be fired by an electic
spark. The people Of Gibrater utilize
the neutral ground for smuggling in a
very novel way. They train the dogs to
run from the Spanish sentry and when
they are well trained they tie about six
pounds of tobacco around their neck and
send them over the line. After the Span
ish merchants get the tobacco the dogs
run the gauntlet OF the Spanish picket:
and are ready for another trip.
As probably everyone knows the rocl
is honeycombed with tunnels and cannon
hid in every part of the place. Lest any
nation should ever try to take the plac
by a siege, there are provisions burieC
underground sufficient to sustain TIL
garrison OF 5000 soldiers for ten years
But with the greatest navy in the worlr
there is no danger that this miitar.
fortress, which England stole $50 year
ago from Spain, will ever pass from Eus
lands grasp.
, The ride from Gibraltar to Naples wa
? devoid of sceiic interest except from til
beauty OF color Of this greatest OF milan
seas. The water was as smooth as glas
t with no ground swell to affect II
D.. motion of the ship aud for two days W
r rode as smoothly as if we were on
c big western river boat. The blue of Il
r sky was reflected on the waves so thu
;, the ripples of our ship made waves
s velvet of the most beautiful deep Bit
II shade. At one time we counted nil
d boats in sight and several times v
l. passed very close to ship under II
&c sail.
y On Wednesday night we had the ga
tains dinner so-called, an extra fl
, repast with the tables loaded wi
- flowers. Ice cream was served with {
" the lights out, illumination being #
nished by transp arancies on the
" cream platters. Led by the band al
- the flags of all nations the waite
~ brought in these frozen lights and t
. passengers kept up continuous applau
~ until the procession had marched tw
~ around the dining room. After the biz
" ing plum pudding was served, Cal
~ Petermanu's health was proposed a
=" the veteran German captain respond
. very gracefully to the toast. The ne
~ night the captain gave ball on de
~ and led the grand march with the be
=" OF the ship as his partner.
- After the ball was over sleep was G
OF question for we were only three no,
~ from Naples and who would miss sect
Vesuvius and the beautiful city under
light OF full moon. AS one pa
i. phrased Scott,
at "lf thou woulds't view fair Naples arig
, GO visit IL by the onln M nnnlipht -