The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-09-14

| while the liking is individual. Perhaps
it would be p~leasanter if the distrust were
nonresident. but it is something to feel
that each may do something TO overcome
1t. and to help later travellers by making
the liking more general. 1t is true that
on the continent of Europe English people
are or were apt to appear at disadvan-
tage; to regard themselves as being sheep
in the midst of possible wolves. which,
indeed. the often are. But on their W
! ground this instinct OF personal hospitality
is traditional. and they are especially dis
posed to regard Americans as friends-a
confidence often misplaced. l regret TO
say. among the INSCRIPTIONS or I'M
gracious.
The very fact that such marked dis
tinctions of rank exist among themselves
makes them inclined towards Americans,
who offer no such extreme complications;
indeed, it sometimes happens that an
American lady, like a bride, may be
given precedence over others simply be-
cause. having no dehnite rank, she may
as well be put at the head as at the foot,
especially if she is personally attractive.
In truth. the fixed order of English So
ciety. IL occasionally a social convenience,
ia also a yoke; and there is sometimes a
positive willingness to relax 1t and act
as if there were no such thing. Just as
in English country houses the almost ex-
! cessive formality of the dinner is balanced
by the utter inforrnality of the breakfast,
where the servants are excluded. ana
every man guest jumps up and gets what
ever he pleases from the sideboard, so
English people seem to have rather a
liking for the somewhat novel flavor OF
Americans. and readily pardon it when
the order of precedence proves a matter
too complex for our intellects to fathom.
And it is also to be remembered that the
society which is apt to attract American
visitors the most is that of English au-
thors and artists, who usually have very
little connection with the order of pre-
cedence in any way.
new idea is 10 rave a tailor-made
suit of plain cloth, with practically no
trimming; but either fitted or blouse
vests. ruled closely with braid through
cut their entire length, will be worn with
these. The colors that will be most in
vogue for this purpose will be mixed
GRAY navy blue, crimson and tobacco
brown. with black mohair braid. Hori-
4 ZOntal OAHU lIlAjlllAlS Wt.A
very fashionable for blouse bodices, vests
and small wraps generally.
I,apels on the new garments meet at
the neck so as to close the garment COM
nletely to the throat. Such lapels are
seen on tight fitting jackets and also on
those which only partially fit the figure.
The most distinguishing feature OF the
| coming seasons coats and jackets is that
-, :-- IN In usArp nitnQr omen
or closed, and this applies to the single
breasted ones as we'll as double. Quite
a number also are intended to be worn
| open altogether. Extremely high collars
| eut in one with the body of the garment
| and faced just now with velvet, and later
| on with fur. are to be much IN vogue.
The basques are made fiat and without
f~ullness. Sometimes they are cut up IN
tabs behind, and sometimes merely open
at the seams. Or they may be cut IN
festoons, but this style is only applicable
to the most %fanciful jackets. The
basaues of blouse vests are shaped IN a
| semicircular form and are Joined on at
| the waist. They may also be tapbed,
| and are invariably rather short. The
new models of light jackets and coats
nave basques of moderate length.
Sleeves of outside wraps show little or
no alteration. They are made with sew
| eral shallow pleats at the top, which are
clustered together on the shoulder and
do not extend to the sides of the arm
| hole. Almost all the jackets have cuffs
of some kind, either the material turned
| back a short way, or some form of
trimming adopted which has the effect Of
a cuff.
The rates of wages paid household ser
| wants in England are very much less than
those paid in the United States, writes w.
| f. Curtis, in the Chicago Record" ana
the service is much better.
The official statistics show that The
| general average of wages for all classes
| of domestic servants in London is only
S76.2 5 a year, or Sc. IS a month. Good but
| lers are paid as much as $50 a year.
Ladies maids come next, and those
| who nave accomplishments get very near
ly the same wages. The official statistics
| show that the average for all of London
is s121.7 IS a year.
The average for cooks is $107.75 a year;
for h~ousemaids, $S1.25; nursemaids, S89. 50,
| and laundresses, s94.25. These averages
are drawn from many thousand individual
| cases reported to the Bureau of Labor
| Statistics by the employment agencies in
| London, and MAJ be regarded as accurate
| although they do not refer to the highest
/ class of servants, such as are found in
the houses of the nobility and a~ristoc-
racy.
Pretty matinee jackets appear at house
party and home breakfasts, a the
sDelineator." Nothing ever devised was
more fascinating and becoming at this
hour. Their fullness is now tied m to
the figure. Short matinees are ndZde of
wool batiste, light textured caskEere, fine
h~annels, Indian. Japanese an Chinese
silks, either plain or printed. Many are
also made of striped materials. Their
sleeves are in bishop shape with a waist
band and ruffle, which slips up to near
the elbow with facility when arms are
plump and shapely. Women who habit
ually attend to morning housework wear
matinees of dinity, Scotch zephyr, print
ed linens, outing 1annels and other dam
ty washable materials.
The tea gown, says "Woman's Home
| Companion has never been lost to sight
since it first came into general use, and
this dressy affair is courted by many
women both summer and winter. A
gabrielle front and Vatican back are
inseparable from the regulation tea-gown,
= 49, -, --A-