New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-04-19
MODES OF THE MOMENT.
THE MOST PROMINENT FEATURE OF
FASHION TO-DAY Is LACE.
LOVELY GOWNS ONE DELIGHTFUL MASS OF
NET AND INSERTION. FRILI-S AND
TUCKs-ODD COLOR COMBINATIONS.


Paris April g. 1897.
In spite Of or rather account OF. the general
bright tone in most OF the costumes. the black
is much liked Thin black stufs especially striped
and figured grenadines built colored trans
parenc!es. promise 10 be worn even more this
son than they were last and black trimmings in
the way OF finely pissed lace or mcusseline de
sole any number Of hgh-necked silk
gowns Intended for the theatre. reception. any
OF the many functions which may be covered by
that useful and pretty genre Of costume called a
demi-to!lette.
PURPLE BLUE LINING.
AT Gustave Beers atelier they have Just finished
a charming froCk of striped black silk grenadine
made over a lining of purple blue The thin skirt
Is fulled gracefully the silk one and finished
by one full narrow ruffie about the hem. The
trimming OF heavy. fiat, ecru lace is put on the
gown in a manner suggest the princess cut and
a long Jacket effect well. rather II looks as
~ a princess gown were trimmed Jacket fashion.
AT the same time the gown is in two pieces, and
there is no jacket at all. but this roundabout de-
scription may help one in mentally seeing the
effect accomplished. From straight yoke OF lace
two wide bands OF lace pass down the sides of the
bodice under belt of white satin. and
tinued the skirt 10 below the hips. where they
make square corners and are carried around TO
the back. rising trihe. They lose themselves in
the fulness of the back breadths and end about
IS sewed 10 the grenadine Independently of the silk
lining. and therefore the former Is drawn very
smoothly over the hips. Between the two edges
Of the lace behind is a rufle that holds all the back
funess-a little hustle effect, you see, for between
this ruffe and the waist line the stuff is quite fiat
II steels inserted in this ruffe it would really
be a hustle but they not, fortunately for the
beauty Of the contour, and the possibility is only
worth n remark because every one is watching
model gowns now and even punching them. in
the effort TO discover surreptitious irons
III ny a pas de ressort, madame" the model
often remarks. seeing that unspoken question. and
then a trife wlckedly pas encore,"
Pas encore" indeed! VIII we ever get out Of this
state of suspense. suspectins every fold in the
back Of the skirt OF containing a bomb
However there are two moro points TO be
noted IN this gown The bodice is slightly pleated
and the peats in front between the lace garniture
60 curiously ton the pleats making the funess OF
the front skirt breadth that the princess effect Is
egain suggested The Skin: drags trif. behnd-a
wee trine but enough TO give becoming line. and
this suggests another possibility. Are we to drag
our daytime frocks did hall dozen years
past? The choker is OF lace and white mousseline
de soie with the rufies arranged behind. The
Sleeves are long. with the thin black stuff only
trihe fuller than the colored lining. but the black
puns out independently at the elbows and there
are peatings of it the shoulders.
NJ. Beers gowns without being in the least ex-
trerne IN effect. are complicated that snail
only try to describe more In detail
GOWN OF DEEP RED CANVAS.
This IS a dark or rather deep red canvas stuff,
built silk Of the same color and curiously
combined with that lavender shade OF bluet that
ragged so wildly and went out suddenly three
seasons ago. 10 reappear modest part OF
some charming combinations. IT Is one OF the
prettest shades Of blue ever evolved, and II one
has discarded bits OF & II is wise to bring them
out to experiment with 1t is not the ordinary
deep shade OF bluet. but the color the bachelor
buttons when growing under hot sunlight-a
'rihe faded and levenderlike until one puts IT beside
lavender
On this gown the bluet SILK makes low-cut
blouse with square collar over the shoulders. and
epaulette pieces over the slight fulness of the
sleeves. which are Of the red. This is all trimmed
with bowknot pattern, done in white ribbon
with tiny line OF black velvet running through /
the centre. The decoration is a real embroidery. |
and there is everywhere tiny edge OF black lace.
so fine and narrow that IL only comes Into the |
general effect. This silk blouse closes side, |
OF course. az all up-to-date blouses do and the |
Closing is softened by frill Of black null and |
effected by the cleverest thing possible In buttons.
1hese are Of three sizes and are enameled bluets
with brilliant centres. Below the bust the blouse /
opens trihe each side TO show puff OF black |
null and narrow soft belt OF white satin, closing
WIN more buttons, and finishes II at the waist The
oeep sailorlike collar behind has been spoken OF. !
out there is a tiny curved yoke above IT and a !
oeeper square one in front made Of white satin
hheiy tucked Above the choker ruffles OF white
nousseIine de sole edged by the tiniest line OF
black velvet.
The skirt is trimmed with bowknot designs. In
irregular size and pattern made OF the white rib
DON ana edge OF velvet These up the front
ana SIDE seams and sn aler design ornaments
"e sleeve cap that falls over the hands.
DEEP COLLARS FAVORED.
deep collars are on every possible kind OF frock.
from evening gowns to blouse shirt waists. and
''e square ones shaped behind after the sailor
,onsr, are particularly pretty az well as one OF
hi, hi touches tnat distinguish a gown being Of
srn, s.asoh' me fact that Chokers are less elab-
Ts ate IMAM OF yore is not conspicuously apparent
nsaraa ex'rene towers Of lace and null that APP
Seaieo on some model gowns last year were never
ss"eiaiy worn. and neck arrangements are GER