The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-01-09

make the one gown do duty for all
these purposes, so that there should be
one rough-and-ready tailor-made che
Vlot for ordinary occasions, severely
plain, but well fitting The better
gown is of cloth, smooth-faced of a
bright blue, braided with black, this
made with gored skirt, with a decided
flare, but not exaggeratedly wide, and
without any trimming, except, perhaps,
three or four rows of fiat braid. The
waist is, in reality, jacket. tight
fitting and braided in military fashion
with black. Sometimes the back is
braided, as well as the front, with a
deep point between the shoulders; but
the spartest have only the braiding
in front and on the sleeves. With this
costume is worn boa of gray fox,
with large muff of the same and a
soft velvet toque. Only young and
fresh skins can stand gray, fur, but n
them it is intensely becoming, and the
bright blue makes it even more So.
Bright red is also suitable for young
girls, but it is very much toned down
with black satin and black braid. A
new style is of rough goods, the skirt
slit at each seam for perhaps six or
eight inches from the hem and v
shaped pieces of black satin inserted.
There is broad bias belt of black
satin. and the bolero fronts open over
a full black satin blouse. Rows of jet
and gilt buttons are put on at either
side of the bolero and are an effective
trimming against the black and red
and with these red gowns large picture
hats of black velvet, trimmed With
black ostrich tips, are worn.
Costumes of pale gray cloth are also
much in fashion for young girls, and
are certainly exquisite in coloring.
They are made with a plain skirt and
a short, braided jacket, and, worn with
gray furS and a gray felt hat trimmed
with gray ostrich tips, look delightful
ly fresh and youthful In tan cloth
smart gown has the skirt trimmed with
bias folds of the same material. a
bolerO jacket is slit up the back three
inches and laced with gold and brown
cord. A wide belt and full front of
pale roSe-colored silk relieves the dull
ness of the tan and makes it more
youthful. This gown also has a pic
ture hat of warm. brown velvet,
trimmed heavily with ostrich tips of a
lighter brown, with the ends of the
tips a rose pink.
Elton Jackets are more becoming to
young girls than to older women, and
the leading dressmakers have been
clever enough to recognize that fact,
and have made up many costumes with
them. Nelveteen of beautiful texture
and corduroy as well, are becoming
more popular every day for street cos
TUNES. and the favorite and smartest
pattern is the Elton jacket and plain
skirt. In deep red figured velveteen,
which closely resembles corduroy, but
is softer in texture, a very noticeable
gown is made, with the Elton jacket so
long at the back as to show just a
line of the black satin belt, in front
finished with broad pointed revers
Ii nl
or other interlining. and consequently
fall into most graceful folds. With this
gown black hat with feathers is worn
and is most becoming. Dark brown vel
veteen made on the same lines, but
with a tight-fitting waiStcoat and broad
belt of yellow silk. and trimmed with
bands of mink, is another pretty cos
tune, which, with toQue of brown
trimmed with a border of mink, and
three mink tails at the left side, is as
smart a costume as any girl could
possibly wish for.
The short jackets of fur. sealskin or
Persian lamb are very desirable, but
must always be short as the long coats
are only for older women. Besides the
Elton jackets the Russian blouses in
fur, belted in with a narrow gold belt,
are in fashion, and most becoming to
slender figures. None of the fur jack
cts fasten to the throat, but open with
reverS and show the ribbon stock or
white lace bow which is now in fash
ion, and the white or light color against
the dark furs is in charming contrast.
g g 9
Daintiness is or should be the pre-
dominant feature of a young girls
evening gowns. White has from time
immemorial been the color for a de-
butante to wear. but the light shades
of blue, pink and even yellow are also
At the assembly ball given
in the new ball room of the Waldorf
the debutantes of this season made
their first appearance, and almost
without exception wore white ball
gowns. Exquisitely fresh did they
look, and the gowns were apparently
simple, but there was nothing simple
in either the materials used or the
for only the smartest of dress
makers could have fashioned them.
Light. quay fabrics made over
satin or silk under-slips 'vere the rule;
skirts of tulle had satin
waists trimmed with tulle, and often
both waists and skirts were covered
with the same material. One gown of
chiffon had the pattern
Of garlands interspersed with bow
Knots embroidered around the skirt,
which was also trimmed with a very
'ull hounce headed with a double
ruche. All through the ruche were
punches of small pink roses. The |
waist, of plain chiffon, had a girdle |
belt of medium width made of pearls |
md rhinestones. Around the neck of |
he low cut bodice were puffingS of the |
chiffon, and the sleeves were of plisSe /
chiffon, while diagonally across from !
shoulder to belt and extending down /
IN the skirt was a spray of pink roses
md green leaves. For the hair, which I
vas dressed high, was a stiff little |
spray of the same roses.
Billowy skirts of white tulle over
White satin, with bodice of white satin,
another gown, which was
trimmed with marguerites. There were
10 flowers on the skirt, but a short
bertha around the neck of the bodice
vas made of marguerites, softened by
narrow fiounce of very sheer lace.
The effect of the gown was most ar
istic and youthful.
A white satin gown, covered with
,auze so sheer that it looked like the
nerest film, had an extremely odd
waist which had somewhat of a jacket
fleet in front, with narrow revers
opening from a full front of gauze
studded with pearls. The revers were
in pearls and silver, and
nded in a point at the top of the
leeVes. The sleeves were butterfly
tufts with a puff of gauze between, and
he most unique point of the whole cos
ume was the under-sleeves of gauze
which were shirred and fitted tight to
he arm, extending down over the
ands like mitts. Most becoming to
he arm was this under-sleeve, but
here were some criticisms as to
rhether it was more suitable to a