davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03

builder with everything about II new and neat
Is always attractive. but TIE Kaiser Wilhelm
der Crosse. being larger than any vessel ever
launched except the Great Eastern and having
bro ken the record for speed on her first trip he
came douby Interesting Thousands OF appf-
cations we're made for permission to inspect inc
palatal ocean flyer
But when it is know that this gigantic float .
ing palace was built at cost Of about So'oo'-
COO and that its constru tors had orders TO pro-
d.ce a ship as nearly perfect d5 POSSIBLE one
need not wonder at the result. The capacity ol
the vessel may be judged by the fact that she
can carry about five thousand tons or coal III
her bunkers. although she reeds less imam one
half that amount on a trip Her worhlhs Gre"
consists Of about four hundred and fifty men. OF
whom seventeen are engineers. eighteen are OIL
ers. scvcnty-Gle coal passers. ninety stoker5.
The vessel is lighted by electricity throughout.
there being sixteen hundred incaadescent lights
Of nty-nve candle power each.
The first cabin passengers have the middle OF
the vessel for themselves. the after part being
tho second cabin ard forward the steeraSe.
Each division Is arranged so that ii does not IN
terfere with the others. The visitor on board
the vessel finds himself confronted at every
turn with something to admire. but the feature
which To the Usual observer Is the most strik-
irC is the great dnint, groom with accomho-
dations for three hundred and fifty persons, ana
the smaller dining rooms With which II con-
n, cts This room is reached by the main stair
case Soft carpets cover the floor, easy chairs
are fixed about the tables. and the entire room
Is decorated in light colors The small dining
rooms are at each end Of the great saloon. They
are four in number. and bear the names BIS
narck. Moltke. Auguste and Luise. Each room
is decorated differently. and each contains Il liie-
size portrait Of the pers IN for whom 1t was
ramed besides other pictures and appropriate
decorations.
Another feature of the vessel one when Is OF
interest To the women. Is q vestibule or con-
versation- ROOM on the upper deck, ABOVE the
dining room, which will be used as ladies'
sitting-room" This space is also artistica'v
decorated. and from the easy chairs anu SOFAS
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03

tory. both to himself and his employees and. so
long as he can obtain free labor. he will employ
no other. His plantation. however. is not one
Of the largest ones, and he expresses some doubt
as to whether. under present conditions. sufll-
cient free labor could be secured for the large
plantations.
The German member Of the Hawaiian Senate
Is VI. w. Schwindt, at one time Consul for
Sweden and Norway. Senator Frank NorthOp.
an American Of long Hawaiian residence. is d
carpenter and builder. w. II. Rice Is farmer
and owns large cattle ranch. He was Gov
ernor Of the island of Kauai under the mon
archy. The two rich men in the Senate. who
would be termed mionares. are ii. i. Bald
win. a sugar planter. and the most prominent
man on the island Of Maui. and Henry Water
house. a wholesale merchant and importer In
spending money on philanthrppies. Mr.. Water
house is the Rockefeller OF Honolulu. Cecil
Brown, who mov-d the adjournment. was a
member Of the Legislature under the monarchy,
and Is prominent lawyer Of Honolulu. His
wife is part Hawaiian, and one Of the most
beautiful and accomplished women on the ISL
ands +. S. Lyman was born on the Islands.
and is a brother OF DR.. Lyman. Of Chicago. the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03

in bulk. paying. II not sufficient for the work
more than Is warranted by their own prohts
and who only continue the business out or CHAR
ity for the poor people Of the district. But this
in many cases does not prevent them from being
accused OF proiiting by the necessities or the
workers. Hence the strike.
Another misfortune for this Industry Is the
new United States tariff. which raises the duty
on worked straw from - to 80 per cent OF us
value Besides. the italian productions nave 10
struggle in America against the competition
increasing day by day. of the japanese and chi
nese straw. The outlook is indeed dark. ior no
matter how the poor Florentine straw-paiters
protest and strike. they have no remedy. IL ~
a question OF oyerproduction for n constantly
diminishing market.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03
A FLORENTINE INDUSTRY DECLIAIAH.
THE SAME SKILL no LONGER REQUIRED IN MAX
ING THE FAMOUS STRAW HATS

INC THE FAMOUS STRAW HATS
Rome correspondence Of The Pail Mall Gazette
strike in the gentle, smiling valley OF the
Arno has drawn attention to the straw -plait
industry carried on there. !: IS one that IS
greatly affected by charge in fashions, anu i.'S
its periods Of prosperity and DEPRESSION Inc
days have gone by when the property about
Florence was divided among few manufacture
ers of straw hats (what the English can leg
hOrns). who when marrying their daughters
gave them a dot Of several thousands OF scudl
each scudo being worth four shillings) and
straw hat, the strands Of which. less man
nilIj,netre in width, were made OF straw5 SO
fine that. after being woven. magnfying grass
was needed TO distinguish them. Now rich tray
oilers travelling through Florence go no more
IN the Via POrta Rosa to pay 100 franccsconi
200, for a straw hat 10 take home as a present
Fashion has transformed the Florence straw
industry The profit now comes from the quan.
tity not the guilty: and consequently inc hann
uork AT one time sought after and we'll paid
has gradually decreased IN price uhth ,he 49,
OF the workers are Infamous When the whole
sale price Of a hat all made and sewcu. ~
nonny or two-and there are those at even
lower price-it IS cosy to Imagine what COLI
nonsation the straw-WOrkcrS get for the twenty
five to thirty-five yards OF mace suahuS WIN"
are necessary for one nat. ,,., l.,
The skill formerly required In the piaitihs -
however. no longer required once IL was an ar,
now every one can do 1.-THE boys ana Siris VINO
drive the cattle to pasture. the women AT hoHie'
hegpars all those who have nothing else to 90
In the mountains the men who break stones
have been seen at straw-paiting IN their rev
io,,uro moments and even men VINO dTlNe codi-
oart. This Contamination" and overproductlon
viii IN the end. be the death or the INDUSTRY
There have been immense exportations' eapr r
cjaIIy TO America, and. consequently an W.
stocked market; and untii sonie e"n1 q, u,,i
~ diminishing the production the INDUSTRY WIN
or from had TO worse, with the gra'est cohse
1uences to those who live py IL . olaf,
There are exporters who buy me sua" piAA'
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03

well-known physician and surgeon John a.
McCandless, w. Y. Horner and John n. VIRGIN
are all substantial business men; the 'a''
named is a veteran Union soldier who came 10
;he islands soon after the close OF the 1--WE
War
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03
BAKING PEOPLE THINK.

INVENTIONS TO SUMMON ABSENT ATTENTION.
ALSO FOR DISPENSING WITH ATTENTION.
From The Philadelphia Times.
Inventors arr always ut work deVising con
trivanccs TO summon absent attention. one OF
the latest II these Is bracelet mat has an a''irn
watch attached to IL. The Wcarcr. having an
orD,r.mcuf at "A certain hour. sets the watch.
and when the time arrives a little needle point
pricks her arm and reminds her or the duty TO
be performed. =,
Many ingenious persons have applied their
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-03
A NEW QUEEN OF THE SEA.
MAGNIFICENT EQUIPMENT OF TliH
KAISER WILHELM DER CROSSE.
THE Latest WORD IN RELATION TO COMFORT.
CONVENIENCE. SAFETY AND SPEED IN
OCEAN vOYAGING

When the dimensions Of the North German
I.oyd's new liner Kaiser Wilhelm DER crosse
became known TO the pablo long before she
started on her first voyage across the ocean. all
persons who had followed the development or
modern ocean transportation looked for her ar
rival with great interest, and much speculation
was INDUCED In as to what time she would
make and how n ship which was as long as
three and 4 quarter city blocks. with tonnage OF
fourteen thou: sand and a displacement Of twenty
thousand tons, would ride the autumn seas.
Her builders and owners m DO many promises
as 10 the great ships speed and her steadinesa
These promises have all been fully realized
making the ship the object of great interest
while she remained at her dock in iloboken.
new ship fresh from the hands Of the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27

bodice The sash is of white silk. tying In a
square bow.
For an older CIR! is embroidered white SILK
showing sprays Of small rosebuds. HAIR n dozen
rufies of the same stun ornament the skirt Inc
bodice has a vest Of heavy cream lace. edged by
Marie Antoinette nchu Of pink mousseline de sole
The rufes edg.ng the fchu fall over the top OF the
sleeves and the ends tucked into the belt
little on one side under the rosette that finishes
the draped wastband of the Powered silk.
A silk null barred off by lines of navy blue and
red to make plaid on the ecru ground offers an In
teresting summer gown for a girl Of fifteen. The
skirt is made Of two scant deep founces. each
edged by line OF guipure laid over red ribbon
The blouse is trimmed by yoke o. lace descend
ing in bands down each side of the vest. the outer
edge being finished by ruffe Of red ribbon. A
turnover collar OF lace and red cravat nnish
the costume.
AN EFFECTIVE COSTUME.
For a grown-up maiden comes pretty costume
in mauve liberty gauze the skirt showing band
of insertion arranged In points some distance above
the hem the space being filed in by many ruffes
The bodice is the popular form Of blouse. running
over the hips and with chemisette outlined by lace
revers Clusters Of tucks the lower tuck or every
group edged by rune OF the same stun. make a
cross-way trimming about the bodice, and the belt
IS a scarf Of mauve silk.
Summer gowns seem to grow more elaborate
each week and trimming begins and ends with
choker and hem Of skirt Perhaps. as contrast to
the full circular effects prevalent on many gowns
of thin stuff some dressmakers are arranging
garniture In sharp diamond points This is done
both In entire deux and ribbon and more effectively
when both are combined There is little sweet
simplicity about the coming seaside gowns. but the
trimming used need not be expensive. Rufhes OF
the same stuff or ruffes Of white lawn on colored
frocks are pretty and popular, and ribbon-well,
ribbon is everywhere,
pretty tennis suit is OF blue serge. with unlined
Skin, made sufficiently heavy by three deep pleats
about the bottom. To explain better. these are not
tucks but attached pieces OF the cloth, giving the
idea OF triple skirt. The Jacket tucks under the
belt behind and on the sides. but Is cut into two
little sharp points in front just long enough TO
cover the belt, a pretty shape. Only narrow bit
~ the shirt waist shows. The revers are covered
by grass linen with embroidered edges, and narrow
turnover cuffs Of the same. About the throat
is a cravat tie OF red and white checked SILK
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27
FETE DIES FLEURS FROCKS.
PARIS DESIGNS REvEL IN GAUZE. LACE
AND EMBROIDERY.

SOME EFFECTIVE COSTUMES DESCRIBED IN DE-
TAIL-PRETrY GOWNS FOR YOUNG GIRLS
Paris. June IS
The Fete des Fleurs this year was blessed Win
good weather and 1t was not necessary to repeat
the unlcvely sight of dripping black umbrellas
raised over the muslin gowns OF the occupants Oh
the howerbedecked carriages that marred the fes-
tival last year and threatened 1t the year before
One always goes to the Fete des Fleurs. yet
1t is hard TO be enthusiastic over It, The Bots de
Bouogne is not improved by the addition OF
band and festoops of flowers over the tops and the
carriages are all smart traps designed for city
driving and i-suited to floral decorations An oc-
cssional carriage load OF children or rompng girls
gives a minutes zest 10 the spectacle Out inc
Battle OF Flowers is merely farce. and the Gay Is
merely parade OF the fashionable beauties snow
ing the latest millinery IN hower-adorned carriages.
But such gowns and hats and fairy parasos'
Nothing like II is ever displayed on any other open
air occasion in Paris. Some costumes nave All
the dash and richness OF evening gowns ana
others are marvellous blendngs OF soft coiors'
rich lace and airy gauze impossible to CLASSIFY.
They simply Fete des Fleurs toilets Designed
and made for this occasion.
GAUZE is POPULAR.
Some coiored liberty gauzes made charming
frocks the skirts built evidently second skirts
of the same stuff light and foamke as possible.
with pillows of rufies about the hem. "A costume
of this material in rose color had an ACCORDION
pleated skirt with overskrt Of white guipure, the
overskirt open in front panier-fashion and draped
I'D a trfe behind. The blouse bodice had Jaoot-
like revers Of lace edged with tiny Fittings OF the
pink and the parasol was OF white lace, over PINK
with edge OF pufs and rufies.
green mousseline de sole was hung over pink
elk which showed only family through the meshes
OF the thin stun. The front Of the skirt was
trimmed by a panel widening toward the hem OF
thread gupure. and this was edged by bouillonnes
of pink gauzo BEYOND this embroidery OF
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27
THE TRIBUNE PATTERN.
A TISSUE-PAPER PATTERN OF AN EroN
JACKET, NO. 7,lo3. FOR COUPON
AND TEN CENTS

This stylish Eton jacket is developed in navy.
blue serge, neatly decorated with braid IL can b
worn over the regulation shirt waist In wash
fabrics or silk. or with linen chemisette as illus
trated Its smooth seamless back Joins the fronts
In shoulder and underarm seams The Jacket ex-
tends to the waistline. and the closing is effected
invisbly at the centre-front with coat hooks and
eyes. Above the closing the fronts are reversed
10 form lapels that meet the rolling coat collar In
uneven notches. The sleeves, shaped by two seams,
have the slight funess at the top regulated by
gathers. and the wrists decorated with braid.
Braided ornaments adorn the fronts OF the Jacket,
which IS lined throughout with red tafreta silk.
The garment may be appropriately made OF serge.
cloth, canvas weave other seasonable fabrics.
and neatly finished with machine stitching braid
applied in various forms OF decoration. When
carried out In cloth. In hussarblue red. decor
ated with braid In military style the jacket b
worn over a skirt OF white pque making ex-
ceedingly effective costume. The mode Is also
adapted to cycling yachting. shopping, travelling
or general utility wear.
To make this Jacket for woman OF medium
size will require two yards OF forty four-nch ma
ter,al The pattern No. 7iOS Is cut In sizes for
81 a. sS IS and 40-inch bust measure.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27
SHE SHOT TEN TURKS.

A little Greek peasant girl was wounded at the
battle Of Carditza while fighting side by side With
her brother When her brother was called out 10
the war she having nowhere TO GO accompanied
him She thinks she shot about ten Turks before
being wounded herself.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27

bocken Miss Clara Wood Merrman. sister Of tho
bride was maid Of honor The ushers were Fran
cjs r. A. Junkin and Charles l.. Kingsley OF New.
York CITY. John J.. Newbold. OF Washington, and
Mr. Wood OF Conshobocken. DR.. William y Hub
hard of New York. acted az best man. MI: Geller
is connected with the law firm OF Turner Mcclure
q Rolston. At Williams College In 1888 ne was
vaIedictorian of his class, and at the Columbia
Law School three years later ne TOOK the hfs1
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27

the usual strapped seams on the fawn-colored
Jacket lines OF white passementerie. mounted over
white ribbon were used. This same use of passe
menterie occurs bicycle habit OF brown cloth,
the passementerie I'm this being black
.cru ribbon. Apropos Of bicycling suits. the baggy
,gliness OF the culot;e has almost disappeared in
Paris Last summer all smart adopted
skirts and this season those not smart fol-
lowing In train. The pleatcd boomers and short
stockings go together now. and only the common
est little denizen of the Quarter Latin affects them.
A gown which. although il comes from a tailor.
Is rather more Ella borate than generally associated
with a tailor's product Is OF cadet-bue wool, with
woke OF black cloth The Jacket blouse Is bordered
against the yoke by a trimming OF black and white
braid which garni,ure extends down the points that
close the blouse the left side On the left OF the
skirt Is a pocket piece heavily braided, and the
sash is OF black ribbon.
LACE AND EMBROIDERY.
A pretty style used in houses Is deep
ponted woke running down the back of the bodice
This NAV be of lace or embroidery. and the blouse
edged with some trimming. 1t is useful on figures
q trine heavy over the shoulders for II demands
straight slight figure TO look well In the fun
blouses so fashionable now.
The summer fabrics and the berufiing I'm fash
.on now suggest charming gowns for children and
young girls For a little maiden Of twelve blue
linen batiste is shown with skirt laid In wide
pleats In the sunburst fashion AT the hem Is
rufie OF ecru lace. and lines Of entire deux
above The neck is cut In a square. edged with lace
and two more of insertion encrcle the blouse
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27

lace figures making two rows down the skirt, ana
continuing about the hem. On the bodice was
plastron Of lace making yoke and nat vest
the rest Of the bodice being full blouse OF the
soeil-pleated stuff.
one Of the most effective gowns y as RASPBERRY =
colored wool trimmed with many crisp ruines OF
white gauze. and with waistband OF whi'e satin
II was worn with hat of white chip loaded with
green leaves. Some touches OF poppy red were
effective For instance. hat Of ecru straw
trimmed with peoples. over a gown OF grass-hheh
lawn. with sash and choker Of pale-yeiiowish
green silk gown Of some pale pink stun hao
belt of three rows Of black velvet ribbon each
strand passed through a diamond buckle me
rows were distinct In front but gathered INTO d
largo no-end behind The blouse bodice was
fastened on one side Of the choker with Jabot Oh
lace and knot Of black ribbon. These two simple
touches Of black emphasized the black hair OF the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27

gay country wedding the following day was
that Of Miss Violet Zcrega. a daughter OF Mr.. and
Mrs Frank 4. Zcrega. to Reginald II. Arnold.
which occurred AZ 800 o'clock I'm 81. Peters Protes
tant Episcopal Church. In West Chester village.
The weather was perfect and the wedding passed
off In the most successful way. The church
Handsomely decorated and crowded the doors
with guests. more than half Of whom went up from
town on a special train. which left the Grand
Central Sttaion N 202 O'Clock and returned late
In the evening. There was II splendid choral SER
vice and slight innovation after the blessing the
signing Of the marriage register I'm the vestry by
the bride and bridegroom. their parents and some
members o. tne hrida, party. Island Han the
country home Of the brides grandmother. Mrs
Augustus Xercga. iorinrd Point three miles
from the church. used for the wedding re-
ception The interior Of the substantial old man
sion decorated with flowers ana plants. clusters
Of American Beauty roses occupying the place Of
honor The welding luncheon was served by Ber-
ger the bridal party being seated AZ large round
table set I'm the east drawing room. The bridal
gifts which were shown in OF the upper rooms
OF tho house. numbered several hundred. Among
them were two antique silver bonhon dishes from
General and Mrs. Daniel Butterfeld. a chest Of
small table silver from Surrogate and Mrs John II
V Arnold parents Of the bridegroom: n Nernls-
Martin cabinet. from Miss Estelle Arnold sister OF
the bridegroom q silver nsh set. from Mr.. and Mrs.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27
RACK HAIR THE RAGE.

Black hair the true glossy black. with no mint OF
brown in H. is the fashionable rage now IN far's'
where compilations and locks seem TO change WIN
will and fashion. If we must see artlnclal iochs
the dyed black are preferable 10 dyed pIoho
ones for II certainly seems easier 10 lower ra'he'
than 10 raise the tone OF complexion.
on a tailor made gown. going-away SUIT TOT d
June bride an odd trimming appeared Instead OF
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-27
THE WEEK IN SOCIETY.

Although the summer heat nearly depopulated
New-York Of its fashionable residents. there were
one or two incidents of sufficient social Importance
TO entice some of the birds OF fashion 10 the CITY
At the running OF the great Suburban Handicap al
Sheepshead Bay Tuesday last every box was
filed and the clubhouse crowded not on.y win
sporting magnates. but their wives sisters ana
sweethearts all daintily gowned and many OF them
perfect fashion plates in appearance Four-in-
hands, both coaches and breaks were present
though not In large numbers. Mr.. and Mrs August
Belmont the latter In a handsome gown or pale
gray cashmere and small round hat OF violets
brought a party with them from Hampstead. Their
guests were Miss Katherine Garrison. Miss May
Bird and Richard T. Wilson. jr. Some OF the others
who witnessed the triumph of Ben Brush In the
great race OF the day were Mr. and Mrs. William
Everard Strong. Miss Alice Strong. in china-blue
silk and a large picture hat who came over from
Seabrght: Mr. and Mrs. James NJ. Waterbury, Mr..
and Mrs J. f. Smith Hadden. Mr.. and Mrs Harry
Alexandra, Mr.. and Mrs Thomas Hitchcock, Jr..
Mr. and Mrs Ernest G. La Montague. Miss Edith
Hail. Mr.. and Mrs Foxhall Keene. Mr. and Mrs
J. s. Curtis. Mr. and Mrs. Frederick II. Benedict.
Mir and Mrs oliver Bird, Mr. and Mrs. Robert J..
Stevens Miss Whitney. Mr.. and Mrs. James iiude
Beekman. Mr.. and Mrs &. Albert Stevens Miss
Bartlett. Harry Page. r.. {. Potter. Royal Pheips
Carroll James /. kernOchan. William H. SANDS
William G. Eustis. W. Aston Chanler. James NJ
Waterbury. jr. and William Butler Duncan. jr;
The display OF toilettes was quite up to the usual
standard Of excellence.