Staunton spectator and vindicator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1896-1916, 1897-09-16

NEW YORK FASHIONS.
New Picture Hats-Birds -Feathers-Colorl
Ribbons New Woods High Class
Neutrality-suspicious. in General-Fal1
Designs.
Large hats again contribute to thai
picturesqueness in millinery. which has
been so agreeable. Their expanded
brims are vantage ground for q dis
play of wide ribbons, feathers and
mammoth single flowers which show
forth among rich surroundings, while
as a notable feature of the season, may
be remarked the use of chiffon or nous
seline that imparts softened appear
ance to garnitures in general. Birds
and birds plumage were never more
freely employed and in new importa
tions, high position is accorded to
plumage that shows brownish or gray
ish tints, since both hues. especially
the latter, are to be popular. Long
Amazon ostrich plumes in natural gray,
will therefore be in great demand on
the part of wealthy BUYERS, though
plumes of like dimension in black, re-
tain all their usual prestige.
COLLEEN PHEASANTS
seem Incredibly large for use on ladies'
headgear, but their yellowish brown
tints render them peculiarly acceptable
and the milliner twists them in such
fashion that they almost form the ex-
amples which they ornament and be-
tween these extreme specimens and lit
tie white java sparrows not much larg-
or than large insects. all sizes and num-
erous colors are shown. Entice birds
or parts of them are dyed in green, red
or purple, thus giving evidence that
these three hues so noticeable during
are now to renew their youth,
while as q welcome addition, comes
blalet blue in three tones.
SATIN QUILL POMPONS
are special exponents of handsomely
dyed feathers, nor must coos plumage
be omitted from the list of winter gar
nitures, since it is seen in many com
binations. Ribbons run in width from
four and a half to six inches and are
chiefly in taffeta, moire or basket
weave, satin ribbons being quite out
Of date. Velvets are matter of course
and importers show large supply of
velvet crowns more or less richly adorn
ID, which are expected to form Tam
O'Shanter hats for young people.
Flowers SO far shown, are very large
Ind mammoth roses in silk and velvet
Ire truly elegant.
DRESS MATERIALS
'hown by Lord & Taylor, prove that
novelties come chiefly with rough sur
aces and many different fancy weaves.
Velours cordings are leading feature
Ind apart from solid colored goods in
which they are frequent. produce many
affective designs according to the man
1er of placing them and this is most
7aried, combinations of stripes. dots
and fancy designs being seen in addi-
tion. The same blistered appearance
noticeable formerly in crepon weaves,
is seen again, though this is an .excep-
tional feature that appears only in
high class goods aud generally it is
united with changeable effects that
are not frequent however, but eonsid-
cred choice when brought forward.
Basket woven woods deserve more than
passing consideration. The weave is
so loose as to be almost open and warp
and wool so large as to rival basket
straw in width. The colors are usually
quite gay and such hues as red. blue,
yellow or purple are mixed freely, with
a modicum of black to set them off.
But as the appearance is that of small
checks, they are not loud and basket
woven ribbons go to show that this
style of material is important.
CAMEL'S HAIR CLOTH
having the characteristic long hairs ly-
ing loose over solid colored surface.
is now reckoned most stylish and ele
CANT woods display on solid ground
works, fleecy stripes and plaids that
often in alterations of hue, rank high
among leading importations. CameTs
hair borders in different widths are
brought out for the lower edges of
skirts and are shown off additionally
by a plain upper portion. Importers
would not invest in, these garnitures
unless sure of selling them, SO that we
may look for considerable skirt trim
ming, the more SO as new solid colored
woods are also woven with rows of satin
in the skirt portion. that simulate the
ribbon trimmings of the summer.
FASHIONS IN GENERAL
are in truth far better adapted to tall
and slender figures than to women of
medium or low stature and become
even disatrous when assumed by stout
persons. These latter classes must new
Or forget their deficiencies or too great
1t will be difficult to with
stand the really beautiful novelties in
rough weave, but the wearer must take
precedence over what is worn. Unequal
surfaces of course add breadth and
skirt trimmings detract from height.
In the midst of temptation moreover,
there are attractive goods in fine, close
weave and for general wear, narrow
indistinct stripes in dark colors, while
plain cloth serge, cashmere or fine
camel's hair cloth if not too pronounc-
ed form an important part of Fall and
Winter offerings.
MANY UNTRIMMED SKIRTS
will be worn and though corsages will
still be elaborated upon, yet it is quite
possible to make selection of designs
which do not ado breadth or even by
deft placing of fornamentation, to bring
about subtraction rather than the con