The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-31

10 uilllO'lb I htcD niShls buiioiiS' "ii'h' -
not worn so enthusiastically as formerly. Kan
CARGO hide. bright dongola. stout American kid,
and what is dignitlcd by the title Russia leather,
and scalskin, are all regarded ms more desirable.
Rather on II venture the bOotmakcrs. at the
beginning NJ the autumn, brought out laced
street shoes OF what they described as rough
surfaced Russian gontskin, dyed a very rich
mahogany red. Over the toes, instcps. and up
the fronts they laid trimmings of duh black
%dongola, and so soon did these find purchasers
that the bootmakcrs have followed their first
inspiration by putting ont dark fawn shoes
similarly trimmed, and by decorating severe
ly plain black shoes with heavy stitch
ing in twlnc brown threads. Their excuse
for doing all this is that by placing
stitchings and leather applications with eau
tious taste a thick ankle can be helped to slcn-
derness OF appearance. a low instop archod. or
width over tho ball robbed of half of its ugly
extent. To such arguments women arc not im-
pcrvious, and so they are also turning over with
a curiosity not unmiNcd with interest the high
laced. corrugatod-solcd. very dark brown pig.
skin shoes for wear when the streets are well
coated with snow and ice.
Perhaps not so long us there are pretty
clothes to wear and smart occasions on which
to don them will women resign their high heels.
Nearly all dress shoes show them now-trle
French heels Mt that. Undoubtedly the great.
est novelty OF this sort to be seen is the calling
shoe, all OF black satin, or with n vamp OF pat
cnt leather and an upper of black satin. To be
explicit, these new arrivals in tho show of foot
wear are cut on the pattern Of any pretty high.
buttoned shoe, but only the posscssors of model
feet should presume to use them. They can be
tastcfully worn only in a carriage or drawing
room. Far more practical and Just as pretty
are Kid high.hccled calling shoes, trimmed on
tnp and heel and huttpn fan with nnipnt
leather. Sometimes the leather is applied in
three narrow stripes across the toe, the whole of
the button flap is made of it, and the heel is
covered with it. As a rule good taste prevails.
and the simple decorations are in vogue.
Never put a badly shaped foot into a slipper
for the evening; cling 20 the Oxford tie Is the
| advice OF an elderly and experienced
who also rcjoiccs in great fame earned by his
wares, and shows tho last fashionable decision
in evening shoes. ut is an Oxford tic of any
heel or toe that is preferred. Both on top and
toe ii is embroidered and beaded and laced with
silk ribbons to match the satin" Now and then.
by special order, he makes ties of very pale
tinted satin and sends them TO n watcr-color al.
list to be decorated with Vatican designs over
the toes, while up the front two rows OF painted
porcelain buttons arc fastened, and over them
| narrow ribbons lace and tie.
More practical and yet exceedingly pretty
are the half shoes for dancing. with patent
leather vamps, tops of black silk or satin, and
the instcp. Young women with stern prcJu.
diccs proudly display as they dance their half
have their Oxford ties made OF Yale blue satin
and laced with ribbons to match. At II swirl Of
the pettiCoatS il is easy 10 see they are wearing
as well Yale blue stockings. while the admircr
of Princeton satisfies her feelings in hosiery OF
bright black and yellow plaid.
So studiousiy neglected are slippers this au.
tumn that the shocma kers have decided TO let
well enough alone anu offer, only the convcn-
t!onal French heel and pointed toe; chiefly il,
bronze kid, TO those who cling to this type OF
evening shoe. A satin. bow with three wings or
slipper the title OF Princess of Wales. All tho
black satin slippers are profusely decorated with
Jet beads, ana in place OF white or colorcd satin
slippers white cream and tinted suede seem to
be most used with delicate evening dresses.
Above the feet Of the wcllshod women rustic
flutes and tiouncings of silken pctticoats il pos
sible more elaborate than have been seen before.
II. seems almost criminal extravaganza and
selfshness for women TO hide such glorics ofsilk
and lace and lovely design in decoration under
sober cloth or the very much palmer silk and
satin top skirts.
THE NEW UMBRELLA.
The autumn showers have sent the summer
sunshndcs into packing trunks, and it is good
to see the new handsome winter umbrellas I'M
furlinR. The sinartCSt novelties arc the handles
treated solidly or on natural wood with dull
red Burmoh gold; the large round sticks OF
match. and the umbrellas with purse at.
tachments. The purses arc meant to hold
car car fare hpnai Gmly' tb ana y wi,b 0g few %e'n "Y%spti ,T0m
have convenient little chains or hoops SO fast
enrd MS to permit of an umbrella being stun
on ones arm. The hoop takes the pretty form
oftencst OF a slender. gold or silver serpent. pass.
ing through eyclcts in the handle and knotling
its jewel head round its icwel'tipped tail.
Persons who prefer elegant simplicity carry
medium length black silk umbrellas that have
stout brown bamboo handles with smelling.
bottle heads. These are fiat heads of gold or
silver. prcttily decorated with raised flowers in
miniature.
No end has been found to the making of
shell hair ornaments. The number of combs
allowed in one feminine head increases daily,
and for evening use all are decorated with hrii.
liants. The palest blond shell IL regarded rs
far more modish than the handsoInest pieces set
from n tortoise back. BlOnI smell combs are
treated with pearl and turquoise headings. and
rivals of the stll lovely Mercury wings are
combs topped with outspread bats wings.
Even thc little boys, in their corduroy sehoo'
They, too, wear he blouse. slightly full Trousers
and n Russian military service cap, but tn,
eagle on tho visor is an American bird, and viii
this graceful and comfortable suit are worn
corduroy ~lcggings Of the. English. h~ostler SHAPE
that the boy can take or when indoors TO dis
play his high.laced brown shoes and rougl
Scotch stockings.