Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1897-11-27

fronts of the lining, especially if the
figure is full; a small plat in front of
the armhole often insures better fit
The under-arm seams should be left
till the last, and not sewed up until all
of the other seams have been finished
and pressed open with an iron.
Bone castings should be stitched on
loosely, almost gathered in fact, for
TINS allows the necessary spring to the
bone or steel. Whalebone is superior
to anything else, but as an ordinary
waist cannot be boned under a dollar
and half. many people find it too ex-
pensive. Featherbone, which can be
stitched through on the machine, or
| pliable steels are better than the So
| called cheap whalebone, which is moth
ing more than horn scraped until it Is
thin, and which is easily broken
The amateur had better not endeavor
to emulate the tailor and try to bind
her seams with ribbon; seams to set
we'll must be clipped. and to bind
around the clipped portions neatly, ex-
perience is necessary. Many of the
best French dressmakers trim their
seams carefully and then overcast
them neatly; others turn in the raw
edges and run them together. French
modistes contend that the overcast
seam is preferable to the ribbon bound
one. as it adjusts itself more readily
to the lines of the figure.
In facing a short basque or pointed
waist the bias facing should be inter-
lined with crinoline or buckram in or
der to give it body.
Putting on the collar is not an easy
job. 1t should be cut bias and
stretched, in order to shape it to the
neck of the dress; an ill-fitting collar
will ruin the appearance of any waist.
Sewing in the sleeves and finishing
the wrists must be carefully and neat
ly effected; the armhole should not be
stretched out of shape; it looks badly
If followed out too much on the back
of the arm and if not sufficiently large
it apt to be uncomfortable.
The skirt demands exactitude in
measuring and exactitude in the put
ting together. Now that bias seams
are placed together, great care must
be taken not to stretch them.
The facing may be of crinoline linen
canvas, hair cloth, or any of the patent
facings in the market; from a quarter
to three-eighths of a yard is sufficiently
deep; this must be laid on the under
side of the lining and should follow it's
shape; it must be stitched firmly 10
each breadth, then the material should
be basted on top and all scanned UP
together; the lining may be hemmed
down to about the depth of a quarter
of yard on each seam, so as to per-
NIT a neat reverse side when the dress
is lifted. A balayeuse or sweeper of
silk with pinked edges improves it's ap-
pearance. The velveteen binding
should be stitched on the machine and
left out sufficiently to form a cord; it
must then be hemmed down on the
lining, care being taken to prevent the
stitches going through to the right
side.
1t is always well to fit the skirt about
the i3ips and sew it onto the belt before
shaping it around the bottom, which is
difficult thing for the amateur Dress
maker to accomplish. If possible,
some one should trim it off while the
wearer has it on. II this is not prac-
ticable the latter should stand in front
Of long mirror and turn the skirt up
to the required length. 1t is good
plan to measure the front, back and