The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1897-02-24
In Ancient Algiers,

We present in this issue another in
stallment OF the interesting letters writ
ten by DIR. Homer G. Brigham to A.
W. Ferrin, and kindly loaned TO US for
publications:
BHKRA, ALGIERs.
Sunday, Jan, II. '97.
This is a rainy day for Algiers, and would
be called so any where. You can easily un.
derstand that weather which keeps me in,
finds me lonesome and the hours long
When the days are fine there is 80 much to
do and so much to see that is full OF interest
the time goes without one knowing when or
where. / left Nice for Marsielles January
8, and went aboard the boat for Algiers at
six P. NJ. 1t was beautiful evening. The
water seemed still, the moon and stars
bright, and looking back at the city, which
one could see SO well, as 1t is above you, we
saw thousands Of lights in the homes and
on the streets, and the cathedrals and pala-
ces, with their spires and domes, were out
lined against beautiful sky. From one of
the towers could be heard the evening
chimes. 1t was a time when one thinks
more of heaven than earth. AT last we
pulled anchor and were piloted out OF the
harbor into the open sea.
1t had been long day with light and
early breakfast, dinner from our basket,
so as soon as possible we were at the table,
twelve in all, hungry and feeling that we
could do justice to ourselves and credit to
the cook. We were not long seated, how
ever, fore one by one the seals were vacat-
ed until only one man and my self remained.
All this time had been conscious of a Gu
rious motion of the boat, and that my
stomach was trying to accommodate itself
to the conditions. L had never been sea
sick and was not expecting 1t, but at last
concluded that my stateroom, which was
near, would be agreeable and l made for il, ,
onto m
mind what was coming. / grew cold and
the sweat stood out all over me. then
threw up the contents of my stomach and
looked for something in my boots l have
heard that people didn't care whether they
lived or died under these circumstances,
but | am weak in faith, and prefer the
known to the unknown even with the bitter
thrown in. Still l was aware Of one thing
and that, that whatever happened would
find me quite unable to offer great resis-
lance. This feeling did not last me seri-
ously for very long, but until we landed at
Algiers, Monday, January II, at about
noon, 1 had to treat my stomach with great
or consideration than ever before.
In coming here we passed among the
Balearic Islands and could see Mrorca at
our east, while at the west we saw Majorca,
Iviza, and Formentera. They looked grand
and imposing, rising up out OF the sea.
When we entered the harbUr Of Algiers 1t
was rough, and instead Of landing us at the
wharf the boat was anchored and ourselves
and luggage conveyed by small boats to the
landing, 1 wish I could give you some
idea of the number aud kind OF boats which
surrounded our steamer, and their occu-
pants are beyond me. Every shade from
white to inky black Is represented. The
negro from the Soudan is here, dressed in
imitation OF the better classes, with COM
mon burlap or sacking. which extends up
over the head like hood. His feet and
legs half way up the thighs are bare. The
costumes of most Of them has seen service
and is repaired layer by layer and by any
color they may find, so they are really q
picture any painter would be proud to have
for subject. The poorer Arabs dress much
as the negro, but a step higher finds them
adopting mixed costume made up from
the Turk and Jew. The Kabyles dress is
made up Of white muslin fastened on a large
round white felt cap, with some goods Of
twisted camel-hair, and a dressing-gOwn of
carpet-like material, one gown lasts life
time, no matter how long that may be.
The Jews, Turks and MOors dress in their
own native costumes, and their gay colors
and artistic draping on figures erect and
commanding presents picture pleasing to
look upon The Arab women are shrouded
from head to foot in white hacks and mus
lin materials, none Of the face being expos
ed to view, with the exception of the eyes.
In the house this is replaced by something
more elegant.
The French government and its people
entertain no prejudice against the negro on
account of his color, in fact he seems quite
popular. The Zouaves, in their bright and
becoming uniforms, 90 arm md arm with
the Tuscos in their picturesque costumes.
Rare pictures unknown in our country
meet you at every street and turn. There
are said to be handsome women here, if SO
they remain at home or behind masks, and
the longer travel and the more see of for
eign women, the more / respect and admire
our own.
Old Algiers is the section which offers
special interest to travellers. 1t is built up
on the side of steep hill in terraces, one
above the other, and still the houses are
joined to each other, making the roofs,
which are flat, the lounging places for the
Arab and Jew women who occupy them.
1t is easy to go from roof to roof, and the
ladies make their calls very largely in this
manner. The houses on the outside are
very plain and uninteresting, but once in.
side things look different. They are mostly
of Moorish style with an open square in
side. The private apartments are up a
flight of stairs. With a guide, it was my
pleasure one day, to go up through these
quarters as it is not considered safe for
strangers to go here alone on account of the
people, as we'll as the danger OF getting lost,
which / should consider very probable.
The streets are lanes, narrow, irregular and
often come to an abrupt end. They cross
each other at all angles, and on either side
in small dens are seen specimens of human
ity your eyes have never seen the like Of
The odors remind one that the relics of CEN
turtles are here.
After a long walk the guide rang at door
and said, ''in here are very fine embroid-
cries" We entered and in the court found
about twenty natives, in age from eight
years to fourteen, engaged in their work
1t was very interesting and the things beau
tiful l bought few and associate some
sentiment with them. The lady took me up
stairs and told me to look from window
which overlooked the roofs. She is a
widow, and as there is no man in the
house, the window had been enlarged
somewhat from its previous small size
The women when on their roofs do not wear
shrouds, and their faces are exposed, stu
alton no man is supposed to look upon.
Later went upon the roof and froin there
could see the streets on the house tops, and
such view of the sea Imagine the Med
iterranean one grand opal, vibrating and re-
tecting the most beautiful colors you can,
and that is the sea here at Algiers.
The country itself seems draped in the
soitest and most harmonious colors From
my window, in the yard are seen oranges
and lemons which pick every day almond