davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

chiefest recommendation is its coat
waist with cape sleeves, that slips on
under anything you may please to
wear, from a board bosom shirt to
chiffon bodice. AS it is the first of the
bolero jackets to come over accom-
panied by sleeves it can easily be
guaranteed a most affectionate popu-
larity, for first of all it is a realization
of supreme convenience and comfort.
MODEL TOURING TOILETS.
BY such wraps as these the golf cape
long cherished by the travelling woman
has almost, if not quite. disappeared.
No capes at all are carried any longer,
and when this little bolero is taken off
It may as frequently as not reveal a
delicately elaborate waist underneath.
That is because the very modern trav-
cling suit consists of four pieces, a
skirt, a waist for morning wear, one
for evening use and a bolero coat. The
morning waist is flannel, percale. linen
or what you may select, while with the
original of this sketch was sold a waist
meant to be donned with the skirt of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

ing of old rose or heliotrope glace taft
of a large puff at the shoulder, close
fitting upperarm decorated with two
rows of insertion, and deep flounce
edged with lace. Wide white satin rib
bon encircles the waist twice, forming
a graceful folded belt, and finishes at
the back with high standing loop
and ends that fall almost to the end of
the skirt. This gown looks equally well
made of Bingham and embroidery or
torchion lace, or of lawn trimmed with
machine-made lace. 1t may also be
made cooler by leaving out the little
vest or making it detachable, in which
case ruff1ed lace should run all around
the square decollete.
Another suggestion for a useful as
well as pretty and easily laundried
warm weather gown is as follows: A
fine lawn with millefieurs design on
white ground. twining around a mar
row black stripe, has a full skirt
trimmed with three ruffies in which the
stripes run horizontally, which are
edged by narrow black machine made
valenciennes of fast color. The blouse
has an unlined yoke of white lace. cut
V shape. and the sleeves are unlined,
reaching to the elbow. where they
terminate in a fiounce like those on
the skirt. The browning feature of
the whole gown, however, is a detach-
able tunic and fichu drapery of
coarse black silk lace. 1t consists of
a black satin belt to which are at
tached two satin straps forming a deep
ending in narrow points at front and
back at the junction of the straps with
the belt. The same wide black lace
also forms the tunic which falls over
the skirt from the belt and which is
long at front and back and shorter and
full over the hips. Two black satin ro-
settes in front and two at the back of
the belt and long sash-like streamers
of wide black satin ribbon complete
this novel accessory to the summer
toilette.
Beautiful textiles grace the shop
windows this season. Grenadines are
revived and stand in high favor, al
though their expensiveness does not
place them within the reach of every
purse. One of the daintiest novelties,
a very filmy gauze is striped with a
very narrow colored ribbon and valen-
ciennes insertion. In light grey. fash
ions favorite color this year, this ma
terial is particularly fascinating, as
the white insertion harmonizes so well
with the soft grey and daintily shaded
ribbon, and when made up over a lin
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

Berlin, April %, 1S97.-If fashion has
her headquarters in Europe and there
conceives of her creations. she finds
her most responsive followers in the
new world That the Americana is
excelled by the Parisienne only in chic
and elegance is an acknowledged and
established fact, and we costumiers
generally feel assured of the success of
our gowns when the wearer is an
American.
We know that summer arrives earli-
er in America than here, and light airy
toilettes are worn there long before we
lay off our warm clothes. Our design
today, therefore, is made in advance
10 meet American requirements. 1t is
intended TO be made of pale blue and
white striped organdie velours Gan or
candle with an openwork white stripe.)
The simplicity of its makeup Will per-
NIT of its being handed over with i'm
punity 10 the tender mercies of the
laundress. The skirt has three ruff1es,
each edged with cream colored real
valenciennes lace, an inch and half
in width. The blouse is made loose
over q close-fitting lining. which closes
in front, while the blouse drapery is
fastened in the underarm seam. The
yoke has two rows of the ruffled lace
running lengthwise over the shoulders
and terminates over the chest by a
band of cream colored valenciennes in
sertion. The little inserted vest is OF
organdie velours with the stripes run
ming horizontally; it is also decorated
at the neck with a strip of insertion,
and a ruffie of lace forms comfort
able collar The elbow sleeve consists
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

the shirt is wrung dry clap it between
the hands until it IS thoroughly cleared
of the starch It must then be ironed as
quickly as possible. Select the Oldest,
smoothest and cleanest iron you can find.
polish It well with a wax cloth and test
the heat of it on a piece of white paper
before beginning to iron. First the yoke,
then the collar. inside and outside. then
the back front and last of all, the sleeves
and cuffs. A shirt board and a sleeve
board are very helpful. and. indeed, the
latter IS q necessity. II should be half
an inch thick, five inches wide and grad
should be covered all over with flannel
and again covered with white muslin.
sewed on firmly. When the sleeve is
ironed. stroke the gathers with the fin
gers and again smooth the collar and
cuffs and hang the shirt up to dry. If
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

of plated white chiffon over brilliant
red and yellow plaid silk. which last
harmonizes with the plaid collar and
girdle.
A STEAMSHIP DRESS.
This cheerful girlish suit went of on
its wearer's vacation TO the New Eng
land resorts, while the same day there
sailed for Europe a typical costume for
an ocean voyage. since every steamer
dress this season partakes in a greater
or lesser degree of the elements OF the
yachting gown. For the steamer the
skirt was a clear malachite green chal-
lie, figured in blue and white, and
showing a narrow satin stripe. Rolling
over the bust and shoulders fell two
collars, the first of blue silk, the second
of brown batiste, decorated with lace,
and turing back from a sailors vest
of batiste, barred with lace insertion.
4 bit of blue appeared on the sleeve,
and the hat that topped off this almost
ideal little frock was a blue straw.
English walking shape, and decorated
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

ing a tablespoon of dry starch in a quart
of water Thick cambria blouses should
be only starched at the collar and cuffs
and down the front hem To the starch
should be added half teaspoon of gum
arabic dissolved in water with = little
borax. Wiring the shirt dry out of the
rinsing water and hold it by the back
of the neck. Gather u collar. cuffs and
front hem and work in the starch. after
which wiring these parts in a towel and
rub them thoroughly, roll up tightly and
leave them for half an hour, at the end
of which they are ready for ironing. In
the case of bingham or any half-trans-
parent material. dip the entire shirt into
hot starch and wiring it between a towel.
Two tablespoons of raw starch into a
quart rof boiling water, with a dash of
gum arabic for the proper thickness. Use
the starch as hot as possible, and when
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
HOW TO LAUNDER SHIRT WAISTS

The shirt waist is inexpensive enough
and it is within the reach of every wom-
an TO have a variety of them, so that
she may present a tidy, comfortable and
agreeable appearance even in the hottest
days. 1t is difficult to get them properly
washed and ironed. Yet the process is sim
pie enough. Careful attention to a few
details will result in making the shirt a.
frc-h and attractive as ever. If there
are any unwashable buttons or trim
rnings remove them. brush the dust from
the seams and throw the shirt into clear
cold water for an hour. If you are afraid
of the color running add n handful of
salt. After washing in warm suds and
drying T. --~'-~ ------ ~+n-ch by dissolv-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

but with a few folds OF yedda and a
couple of green quilts.
Not again. perhaps. until the other
shores were reached would this toilet.
so delicately limiting of nautical ad-
ventures, probably be worn. SO that
cynical women call them dock or fare
we'll gowns, and some of them frankly
array themselves for the trip down the
bay, prior to sea sickness and ignomin-
i0uS retreat, in costumes breathing of
purely marine sentiment and cut. A
charming steamer gown that accom-
panied the blue challie had it's skirt
and coat of clear red and white tweed,
banded with white braid and the coat
worn over a bodice of gay red taffeta,
while the bright picture was topped
with a red and white sailor hat. show
ing a fin-shaped bow of white ribbon.
But these are liberties taken eX-
clusively by young girls, the more
dignified element clinSing to some such
model as this red cloth suit showed.
it's bolero cut in evening waistcoat
shape over a white board bosom shirt.
This especial red gown is very well
covered in black braiding and the ma
turer women with one accord avoid
this season the untrimmed sailor
With few exceptions, indeed, travelling
hats are trimmed and trimmed elabo-
rately, for at last women have come to
an understanding that it is as easy to
be as comfortable in a trimmed and
becoming hat when en- route as in a
bare and trying one.
TRAVELLING HATS.
Undoubtedly a boon are the travel
ing chapeaux made to order TO suit
special gowns. If, for example, you
have a red. green or blue steamer
dress, the milliner viii weave brim
of straw. build a crown of a bit of
ones material and adjust wings.
flowers and ribbons to coincide with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

should be is given in the sketch of a
costume having its skirt of blue cloth
with a waist of the same braided in
white, and showing a vest Of checked
scarlet and white taffeta silk.
quickly in a suit on this pattern, and
with it the girl wears a hat of dark
blue panama, bound round the crown
by a scarf of blue yedda or grass rib
bon and showing a scarlet and white
wing TO one side
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
Power of Christian Societies.

This is certainly an age of young peo-
pies societies. In all evangelical churches
the restless energies of the Christian
young people are being united as never
before. and are being guided intelligently
into lines of practical spiritual. intellec-
tual and social work. These societies are
a great power for good. and wherever
they stick to their true purpose they are
exerting no small influence for the bet
terment of humanity. To the public at
large the following figures must seem a
surprising revelation. There IS mighty
army of Christian young people to be
found in these greater or lesser divisions:
Societies. Members.
Christian Endeavo- (40 denorina-
uonSl .-...--..--. =, OU0
Epworth league (Methodist Episco-
Epworth league lMethodist Epis- ''''''''
copal. South Observation-Disclosures. 10000
Baptist Young Peoples union. 100000
United Brethren5. ................ 5000
Luther league dutheran).... 10000
Y. p. c. U. Omitted Presbyterian. 35 LAG
Y. P. c. L. assoc. Reformed -. 2223
Young Peoples Alliance (Evangeli-
cal association ................,. 80 4O7
Westminster league mot yet ma
uonaD --.---.-..--.............- 1924
Total a, 500 600
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
JULES Blister, Berlin-)

feta, it is admirably suited for evening
or best wear.
Moiree canvas is an open-meshed all
wool material. generally made up over
different colored Innings, which then
brings out the watered effect. Nuns
yelling is received as an old friend. it
now comes with a. hemstitched border
and will be much used for young ladies'
toilettes. Irish poplin finds a rival in
Liberty poplin, which is lighter and
more lustrous than the first named
Heavy silks will be banished during
the warm season. and all will tend to
soft. clinging and draDed effects. Soft
surahs and foulards will be worn and
designs are printed instead of warped.
Polka dots familiar to all, are shown
on silks and woolens. Laces have never
been so much used as now. Some
handsome dresses are entirely made of
this becoming material Others of silk,
have deep fiounces of lace trimming
the skirt, while the bodice has rows of
narrower lace as a front or covering
part of the front, and sometimes the
entire bodice. Even the plainness of
tailor made gowns is relieved by lace
iabots and cuffs. Lace is also lavishly
used in trimming hats, and it makes
most becoming collarettes and high
neckwear 1t seems as if we were
transported back to the fifteenth or
sixteenth centuries when we see the
high ruffs and Medici collars gaining
in favor, as they do, and justly, too,
as nothing fiatters the face more and
lends stately dignity to the poise Of
the neck and shoulders than these
dainty feminine conceits. An odd and
pretty collarette is of black mousseline
de sole, accordeon-pleated, and has
tiny white ostrich tips strewn all over
it and bows of satin ribbon at the
back. Black and white continues to be
stylish and striking. as well as digni-
fed. Picture hats in black and white
are very becoming to young faces. Red
survives the winter. as does purple. A
stylish wide brimmed red straw sailor
hat has a full ruche of red mousseline
de sole encircling the crown. upon
which are placed six black Mercury
wings. A bunch of red geraniums is
fitted under the brim at the back with
a small bow of black velvet ribbon.
H. AzI
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
Copyright, 1897. by VIM. Du Bots.

Our first article by this well-known
court costumer of Berlin appears to-
day, and is well worth reading. for
Monsieur Blister is not only "fournis-
seur' TO the imperial court. the ladies
OF honor, and four monarchial courts
of Germany, but is a mOdeler of great
originality of design; in other words,
he is a celebrated creator In many
ways he is not as radical as many of
our European modelers, but devotes
especial care to the combinations Of
color effects and materials. Another
particular forte of his is lingerie" to
which he has contributed many dainty
and practical ideas.
Berlin has now become one of the
opponents of art in dress. and such
great houses as Blister or Gerson of
Berlin furnish their share OF the models
sent to our American establishments
fer display and copying purposes.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
TOURING TOILETS.
SUITABLE COSTUMES FOR BOTH
STEAMSHIPS AND TRAINS.

Exquisite Travelling Costumes Work
ed Out in Sailcloth and Pondi-
cherry-The New Bolero With
Sleeves is Rejoiced Over by
Women Of All Ages, Who Find it
a Delightfully."- Convenient Gar
ment - Batiste Wells Are Worn
This Season With Sailor Hats
Suggestions For Childrens Trav-
cling Dresses.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

Magic little granules-those tiny
sugar-coated Pellets of DR.. Pierce
scarcely larger than mustard seeds. yet
powerful to cure-active. vet mild in
operation. The best Liver Pill ever in
vented. Cure sick headache. dizziness.
constipation. One a dose. Whole vial
25 cents.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
ACCORDING TITLES.
THE ETIQUETTE OF ADDRESS
ING PUBLIC OFFICIALS.

Few People Outside of Strictly OFF,
cial Society Are Familiar With
the Rule Laid Down on This Sub
ject.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

WHY not use Three Crown pure
home-ground spicesP They are
ground fresh daily, thereby retain
ing strength, purity and aroma.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

To make the lightest and most de-
icious biscuits and cakes use Three
Crown Baking Powder.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

these directions are followed the shirt
will look as well as If sent to an expen-
siVe laundresS
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02

1t is rather surprising to find that in
the matter of addressing public officials
the most widespread 10 -orance prevails,
and yet it might, at any moment. be of
the utmost Importance that one should
be conversant with the particular form
upon which custom has set its seal Sup
posing, fo- instance, one wishes to ad-
dress p communication to the president
of the United States. there are two forms
from which he may choose. If the let
ter concerns matters of state or is of a
purely business nature he should use the
superScription:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-05-02
The President,
Eypcilfiva Mansion

The name should not be appended to the
title, and under no circumstances should
the term Nv hite House" be used always
executive mansion.
If the letter is of a personal and
friendly nature:
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1897-12-25
VIVA. Tn. Teacher said.

Two elder boys at the breakfast ia
ble had described their academic ae-
auirements TO their father with the
Just pride which inspires youths in
their teens over Greek verbs and Latin
decIensions. They told Of the surprise
and Joy OF thea respective teachers at
certain brilliant Rotations Of the day
before. Then arose on his high chair
the youngest, the kindergarten stu
dent. aged four, whose Christian name
is Lowell He swung his arms and
began, Ny teacher said then paused.
evidently to let imagination have her
perfect work and keep him in the race.
he swung his arms again and declared
with infantile gravity, MY teacher
said. Lowell. you and all your family
are peaches. BOSTON Transcript
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1897-12-25

A novel proposition was made not long
ago to the Receivers Of the Baltimore &
Ohio Railroad The B. & o has q branch
running from what Is known as Alexandria
junction, near Washington, to Shepherds
on the Potomac River, where car ferry
il operated in connection with the lines
leading south from the Capitol. A pro-
fessor Of an eastern college desired to lease
this short stretch Of track for the purpose
Of educating young men in practical rail-
road work. In his letter he explained that
he thought there was q wide field for bright
and energetic boys who could be thorough
" well grounded in the practical side or
railroading, provided they could be edu-
Gated on q regular line Of road. He be-
Iieved that by the employment Of veteran
railroad men as teachers that the boys
could profitably spend 2 or 8 years work
ing rs trainmen, dremen. engineers, switch
men. station agents, and in other capaci-
ties required in the railroad service As
this branch Of the B. & o. Is Of considera-
BILE value the Receivers were compelled to
decline the offer.
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1897-12-25

The principle Of producing min by
means 81 powerful disturbances Of the M
per streta u air By means o. explosions
verse prlnclple-that o. dlssIpatlnK rain and
hau storms By means OF explosions IN the
upper currents Of alE-1as proved successful.
Says the Philadelphia Record. Unlike the
FSIn-pr0ducing experiments carried out IN
exposition EXP q ! scientific principle. the sx-
P PED out IN Austria Tor the coIamerciai our
nose OF protecting valuable vineyards from
the devastation Of hall storms which are OF
frsS1sRt 1bert sser b sssea 81 to o
Windische- Frelstritz lower Stelfmark. Aus
rial owns extensive vineyards. situated on
the southern Slopes o. ,. ne 5ecaer noun
haiI storms. According 20 Consul German.
AT Zurich, having expended good deal OF
money ana laeor on the improvement q his
which TO raise his vines, he began 20 expert
nent to protect his crops from their worst
enemy-halL. At frst be purchased galvan-
I've acres OF his best vines. but found the
scheme too expensive for general applicA-
ton. He therefore concluded TO ny the
cIouds and drive away approaching haiI or
heavy rain storms. He erected six stations
on the six most prominent SUBMITS sae-
territory about two miles In extent. These
stations, built OF wood. shelter ten heavy
mortars each. In the Seighborhood Of every
station Is a cabin In which the necessary
poWder Is stored.
A corps Of volunteers consisting Of neigh
bors who are also owners OF small vine
yards, have been trained 20 handle the NOR
fsrs at the slightest indication OF an APP
nroschIug storm. The mOrtars are imme-
diateIy manned and loaded with about four
and a quarter ounces Of powder each, and
Continues regularly out OF the sixty NOR
tars until the clouds have scattered and the
storm has blown over. These experiments
Windisch- Freistritz last summer. At the ap-
proach Of threatening black clouds over the
SUBMITS OF the Bacher mountains signal
was given and ali the mortars were afed on,
and the continuous decorations In q few
moments caused a sudden reaction In the
The broad ax. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1895-19??, 1897-12-25
sEwiTcHED BY a IuooLER.
TrisE. ct IN. Magic Art as Pr.esies4
In India

1r1cEn 81 the Magic Art - Ef1eticeo
IN India
A correspondent Of Scottish Nights,
writing from India regarding the theo-
~ that the iuggiers perform their tricks
by will power" says: During the
course Of the Indian mutiny made the
acquaintance OF one Of these gentlemen
OF India. who tried to instruct me how
TO perform thess tricks. He said Il
was all imaginary on the part Of the
spectators, as he simply willed that
they should see these things. The most
exciting performance that he gave for
my amusement was the converting Of
q bamboo stick into n native servant,
who waited at table and supplied our
wants. Afterward-in his absence-I
tried 1t on and to my surprise the same
man was before me asking for instruc-
uonG ! directed him to MI the chat
ties In the veranda with water from
the well In the compound. This he
proceeded. to do When he had filed
them all to overlooking requested him
TO stop. He, however, took no notice
OF me and went on stolidly bringing
In the water. until, in my excited i'm
aeination, 1t seemed that the bunga-
low would be washed away. Finding
that l could not arrest or stop his
movements, he passing through me as
though did not exist, L drew my sword
ana lay In wait for him. Making a
slash, l apparently cut him in twain,
when, To- there were two men bringing
In the water. neither of whom could
restrain or prevent from doing so.
was completely out Of my depth, when
1 heard a quiet laugh behind me, and
on turning found II was my instruct
or, who held up his right hand and the
two men disappeared, the stick resum-
ing Its place In the veranda, and. to
crown all, there was not the slightest
sign OF any water having been brought
In. ! excitedly appealed to him for
an explanation. He said that he had
been present all the time, having willed
that he should be invisible to me, and
that should imagine myself to see and
DO what l thought had taken place. IN
order to prove 1t, he asked me to step
out into the compound and directed
my attention to a huge cavern, which
l knew was not there before. As
entered a number of huge elephants
and camels issued from 1t In a contin-
uous stream yet could not touch one
Of them. They apparently passed oyei
me as though l did not exist. He
again raised his hand and the cavern
and animals disappeared and there was
no induction of an exodus Of any kind"