Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-09-19
NEW lDEASIN DRESS
e.,xcrs THIS WINTER IN coLoRs
MATERIALS. AND STYLES.
TIGHT SLEEVES AND NARROW SKIRTS
,nc.e and the Ancient DoIman
,ro,gbt Ont ARnin--The Russian
plou,c and the Mess Jnckct--Ncw
Things That Are Popular.

hs. declared that "auld acquaintance"
shall not be forgotten. and now brings
ort tho tight sleeve. the narrow skirt,
and the ancient dolman. Tho dol
man is cape grated on a jacket.
The back and front fit rather tightly.
while the arms have a cape effect.
qre odd Jacket. so useful in the fall,
vhtn there is a unge OF frost IN the AFR,
IS ye.y much used, too. 1t has the clab-
crate braiding and the little skirt Of
tbs SEQ on. The bolero and Elton jackets
ate antique. Another wrap that is the
ssy latest fashion has short cape
Standing well out over tho shoulder,
ura,.cting waist. and the long skirts
ssa.l on az the belt. as was the custom
several years ago. TWO old India shawls
are a popular combination. when the
pa.r ccntre-parts are made into a
Ja0sCt. with the border about the bottom.
Really The thrifty Scotchman was cor
rs.t when he said: Keep thing ten
yeats an you will hat a use Tor It,"
F.r apes. boas. collars and trimming
$500 have foremost place In the popu-
jar lfIr. Tho mink, sable. ermine. Per-
ral lamb, tae silver fox, and the black,
Dad better look well TO their ways
% tley care 10 live long I'm the land of
their fathers. House dresses for din
Der and parties. at this early date. have
scarcely any place except in the brains
cd heir designers. The tailor-made
gowns. however. are made and are on
exhibition. On them Soulache braid
and heavy mohalr braid braid put on in
strips. and braid made in elaborate and
beautiful designs appear. And the skirts
'0 Che Jackets continue TO grow down
ward. Sleeves are not. yet OF onion-peel
ughtness. but we do not know what the
future has for us The different styles OF
sleeves IRE almost as numerous as the
children Of Abraham: but the make
which has a long, tight-1tting cuff over
the lower part Of the arm, with ruffles,
opau.ettes, and jockeys at the shoulders,
is most popular. The mousquetalre
sleeve. too, is often seen. on ali there
appear fat cuffs or haring cuffs or
ruihes about the hand Collars high, much
trimmed and very becoming, are a fea-
ture OF the winters toilette. The bOlero
and Eton jackets having been banished
the two reigning fayortes among pat
terms are the Russian blouse and the
mess jacket. The waist cut a little long
or than necessary above the gathers In
front and for the slender figure, at the
back and side as well, is the one that
bears the name Of Russian blouse. Square
tabs finish off this waist at the back.
AZ the throat the blouses fasten up.
or they may be cut open and turned
back. so as 10 give a glimpse Of tho
pretty collarette underneath. A very
pretty example Of this lyle Of waist is
made Of white taffeta, with, perhaps, a
faint figure in black. This buttons up
closely at the neck and is trimmed in
black Black and white just now need
bs no badge Of mourning. Rather 1t is a
ivorte combination for dressy gowns
20 be worn at all kinds OF entertain
uents.
70 20 back 10 the Russian blouse-this
hv0rito has a history, more or less true.
When Peter the Great came to the throne
OF Russia the men of all classes
wore coats which came down TO their
heels. and which also had the virtue OF
keeping their heels warm during their
severe winters. Peter, though, was pro-
uessve, like the new woman of to-day.
uv edict ne ordered that ali Of his sub
ects should wear shorter coat, and he
ang up everywhere about the cities
,amples OF the elegant garments which
De- approved. Suppose President Nc
Klnley ordered our dresses for us. we
lhould not "meekly wait and murmei
not" At any rate. the Cars subjects
murmured; for If there was anything a
Russian of the lower classes was fond
,s h was a plenty OF dirt and a plenty
Of length TO his coat. Nevertheless
Peter had his way. If any MuJik OF
povar entered the gates Of city wear
Inc tho condemned cloak, there he toun,
Waiting for him an official with pair Of
e.tseore Aud the servant OF the car
eftar shearing off the victims leg pro
te,tors. added insult to injury by givnt
bis coat above the waist, final jerf
,bat left Il stil shorter and MADE j
blouse over the belt. If this Is I'M
ORIGIN of the dainty Russian blouse @
,Sa7 tho waist must have gone through
a long process of evolution.
Tho mess Jacket fits closely In III
hack and in front fastens only at 'h'
collar. the opening at the waist snow
ing a tight embroidered underVest
Jeweued buttons are stitched on CLOSELY
from the shoulder to the waist at on
aide. In skirts, there has been a stead!
shrinkage. The widest have only nv
cores and measure five yards at I'M
bottom binding. while the upper par
le AS narrow as yokes and cores c'i
make t. Skirts made with the yokes ar
,wt-.,ons 20 The spirit of the thrift,
sr.s-roater as they cannot readily h
. mad. over. However, such patterns ha'
t.ttor he accepted with Thanksgiving b,
Tho very tall girl. The yokes doubl
skirts and hanging Ribbons, ar
Fsehion's afterthoughts In her behalf
at a time when ALL or nearly all, tn
modes have a long effect. a circula
slf,rt Is one of the prettiest OF all
bnt experienced is the dressmake
who attempts this pattern. Tn
reasons color pallet seems TO hav
oeen made up in Spain or Italy. II ha
,uch bright colors as petunia, red,
rreen a shade and a half darker thai
smerald. and grays combined with ever!
.olor that the sun ever dreamed Of. To
ltreet-wear, though. only the darke
shades are shown.
In fabrics. camels-hair cloth and ;
new manufacture called satin-clotb ar
conspicuous. A very smart skirt, 10 ~
worn under the winter coat, Is one mad'
Of camers-cloth with long hair, anC
having a deep figured border. Nearly
An skirt materials that have not a woveI
liaire design have one applqued ii
braid.
Some OF the other cloths much useC
are Cheyiots, English mixed goods
touce cloth with raised figures and Z
Saferated background hop sacking
tried and true, and kind OF checker
boar~ cloth which has alternate squares
d blue and green, red and gray an(
other combinations. on even the heavies