The Saint Paul globe., 1897-10-31

pear, though, as yet, they are not in
tended for walking toilettes. This style
is accentuated for evening and ball
dresses, the trains being so far mod
crate in size, measuring about three
quarters of a yard in length. The cling
ing draperies combined with the short
trains are very graceful and promise
to be very popular.
The novelty in this seasons sleeve
lies rather in treatment than form. In
other words, the general shape of the
sleeve, when completed, does not differ
widely from those we have been wear
ing this summer, the change lying
rather in the trimming and in the
treatment of thes material. This is
particularly true regarding the sleeves
of dresses for ordinary wear, as more
latitude is allowable, for evening cos
tunes where fancy may roam compar-
atively free. For, day wear, most of
the sleeves are made practically tight
fitting, cut with just a little fuilness
at the top without pleats, or else hav-
ing the outside portion cut little
longer than the arm. and full enough
to make a small putting at the top.
Puffs are also set on the sleeves in
stead of being cut in the material, and
one style seems to be as popular as
the other. q ~
4 fayorite treatment is to have the
entire sleeve tucked. These tucks may
be large or small, varying from nine
or eleven in number up to as many as
twenty-one, the latter, however, being
extremely fine. A moderate number
is about thirteen, which makes the
tucks a good size for nice effects. They
are made to lap over each other just
enough to hide the stitches. The high
est tuck at the top of the sleeve is set
into the armhole, while the lowest one
is usually funnel-shaped and comes
down over the hand a little. Sleeves
which are trimmed with row after row
of braid. gaIoon, bands or velvet rib
bon, have, of course, practically the
effect of tucks and belong to the same
category.
Other braid trimmings, for use on
costumes which are otherwise braided,
have one row of braid on the top Of
the sleeve, then two rows set close to
the first one, then three rows with
sIace between, and SO on, graduating
down to the wrist and having one row
more in each set. Every group Of
braid rows has in the center an olive
shaped silk button, proportioned in
each case to the width Of the row
which it is intended to decorate
Sleeves treated in this way are finish
ed with a cuff, which is entirely COW
cred with braid to match the rest, but
the button is not used thereon.
Another style is to have the sleeve
buttoned down the outer side, in which
case the cuff is generally cut in one
with the sleeve proper. and by stitch
ing the material the effect of frlll is
obtained. Still another arrangement
is to have a band of a different ma
terial from the sleeve itself running
from top to bottom, with bands OF
braid or narrow velvet put on cross
ways. giving somewhat the appear
ance of a plaid Sometimes puffs for
thp top of the sleeves are formed OF
embroidered velvet, while the tight
fitting portion of the sleeve is made OF
the dress material, braided lengthWIse.
Coat and jacket sleeves are still
plain with few shallow pleats at the
top but they show a tendency TO grow
smaller and smaller. The pelerine
sleeve promises to be well-liked for
iaunty wraps but is used very little
on cloth. tight-ftting Jackets. Some
of the newest betWeen-seasons jackets
have rather wide sleeves gathered at
the wrists. The cuffs are of gauntlet
shape and turn back over the sleeves.
This particular style of sleeve IS USED
principally for the blouse effects, IN
which the back and sides are confined
by a belt, while the fronts are practl-
cally straight and end in tabs. Bishop
sleeves are again in favor for evening
wraps, made very wide and of the
same width all the way down, gathered
into the wrist with narrow band.
Bodices intended to wear with odd
skirts are distinctly a fashion Of the
season. Small-patterned silks in con-
ventiona1 designs or the plaids now
so much worn are chosen for this pur-
pose, and vest, and chenisette effects
are considered the correct thing. Silk
tucked skirt waist in all colors will be
extensively worn under our heavy win
ter wraps and jackets. The new no.
ton in this regard is that light shades
will be favored. We used to think that
only the medium and dark shades were
appropriate for winter wear, but to
! be of that opinion now is to be con-
sidered old-fashioned. This applies
to woolen waists as we'll as silk, some
of the plaid designs being especially
liked, and these light and bright-col
ored waists are to be worn with dark
skirts of any description. This new
idea has at least the advantage of