davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
: FASHIONS LhT6ST FhDS. s
Once of he Very and Popular is for ~
Lacea and Trimmings ~

figured material is also used with good
effect.
The sash is very much in evidence on
all the up-to-date summer gowns, and,
if the fashion should be continued in
velvet for fall use, it will enliven many
a wooden gewn-but that of course is
problematic. Certainly all sorts and
kinds appear at present, ranging from
five-inch silk ribbon and foulard to
printed gauze and mousseIne de sole,
but Of whatever material, invariably
having long, broad ends. If the sash
is of foulard, it consists simply of a
long, unlined strip of the silk draped
round the waist and loosely tied, either
at the left side or at the back, and
having long ends reaching almost to
the foot of the skirt.
But whatever else is variable, enc
thing is always certain-the sash must
be of a different shade from that of the
dress with which it is worn. This is
absolutely Indispensable if one wants
to be truly fashionable. A decided
contrast. too, is considered the correct
thing, a black or white dress being
frightened with a pink, blue, green or
49, ~
dress will be either mauve or green.
Embroidered dresses, on all occasions
where a stylish toilette is required, are
greatly in vogue. A very pretty one
was composed of cream white tulle de
sole over a cream white pleated I'M
derskirt the tulle skirt being embroid-
cred with garlands Of delicate pink
with roses and foliage marvelouSly true
to nature. These garlands rose at in
tervals round the skirt from hen! TO
waist. the front width being entirely
covered by the embroidery and framed
on either side by a shell pleating of
cream white English point lace, fornl-
ing tablier.
The special feature in garnitures this
season is a. square yoke. 1t may be
varied in design, but it must remain {,
yoke. Some are very deep, and cover
the dress from one arrnhole to the
other, and then comes a short one,
leaving a deep space between it and
the collar. Still others have tiny
pieces, recalling the bolero of last sea-
son, running under the arms, and yet
another pattern finishes with straight
band running down either side to the
belt.
The real novelty in yokes, however,
is an Irregular effect, where one side
differs from the other in pattern and
length. These yokes are in jet, colored
beads in brilliant red, green and violet
tints, delicate evening colors, such as
corail and crystal turquoise enameled
in gold, black, and SO on indefinitely
Mousseline grounds and burned-out
grounds are equally handsome, and
there is a brilliant silvered four-sided
bead called the diamant.
For the lower grade of Jackets and
nantes the fashion is turning to plain
Innings, mostly merveillevx rhadames
serges and satinS in piece dyed goods,
while very fair demand exists also
for yarn died satins The craze for
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08

linens and musiins and batistes, and are
puffed and frilled with lace and trimmed with
ribbons until the old ladies' of a hundred
years ago would never dream that they were
aprons The finest aprons are made Of real
lace, and are we'll worth passing down from
generation to generation.
An English woman recently ordered an
apron that cost $500. 1t is made of Brussels
rose point in an exquisite floral scroll de-
sign. and has a border of roses. She didn't
get IT to wear when doing up the kitchen
work, but she dens it when serving after
noon tea or doing a dainty piece of fancy
work Some of the lace aprons have pastoral
pictures which figures are introduced and
are very quaint-looking with their floral Dor
ders. Still others are embellished with but
ternies, birds and blossoms.
Men like aprons, it is pretty safe to saw
that the fashion of wearing them will soon
take hold here. Some of the shops are a
ready importing them, and the managers say
they Will go like hot cakes when chatting dish
time comes round again. Nothing domesti-
Gates woman in appearance like an apron
and very frivolous girl can sometimes de-
coy a very clever bachelor with one if she
only knows how to wear it, or at least that
IS what some of the clever bachelors say
themselves There is a great deal in know
ing how 10 wear an apron. The most costly
apron ever made was worn by the Duchess
of Queensberry in the last century. 1t was
made entirely of point lace and was valued at
$4,000.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
August Excursions

Via the Chicago Great Western Rail-
way maple Leaf Route afford low
rates for the tourist, the homeseeker
and the sportsman, while the comfort
ably equipped train service of this
line adds much to the pleasure of the
outing.
For homeseekers, the low rate of two
dollars more than one fare for the
round trip will be made on Tuesdays.
Aug. 3rd and 18th, to all parts of the
country offering inducements TO set
tiers.
Summer tourist tickets to the noun
tain and seashore resorts of the East,
Colorado, etc, are on sale until Sept. 30.
Less than one fare for the round trip
is the rate to Indianapolis for the meet
ing of the Young Peoples Christian
Union, Aug. 18th to 23rd, and the limit
of the tickets can be extended to Sept,
18th.
The "Old Soldiers Route will not
forget it's friends of the Grand Army Of
the Republic, and for the Thirty-frst
annual encamDment at Buffalo, Aug.
% to 26. offers extremely low rates. and
in addition to the splendid regular
trains will run special trains with free
reclining chair cars and sleepers to &C
cGmmodate the old soldier boys and
their friends.
Fare and one-third rate on the certiff-
cate plan will also be made for the
following meetings and conventions:
Supreme Court Foresters of America
Denver, Aug. "a to %; Summer School
of Normal Methods-Dubuque Aug.
2 to %; American Associat ton of Obste-
tricians and GynecoIogists = Niagara
Falls, Aug. II to 20.
Maple Leaf ticket agent, at
Fifth and Robert streets, will take
pleasure in giving more particular in
formation in regard to these reduced
rates on application, or letters of in
Quiry may be addressed to F. H Lord,
general passenger and ticket agent,
Chicago.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
A POWER IN BERLIN.
An American Woman Who Rules So
ciaI and Political Circles,

1t is doubtful If any American woman mar
ried to foreigner enjoys greater social dis
ttnction than the Countess Waldersee. She
would certainly be a brilliant addition to the
Est of American women who are shining in
ofiesal life abroad should the Emperors
choice definitely fall upon her husband to
succeed Prince Hohenlohe, now that the lat
ter refuses to reconsider his petition for with
drawal. Ever since Bismarck's retirement
at each successive change Of ministry So
far the rumors lack the positive eonfrma-
ton OF his appointment to the chancellor
ship. but it is none the less a fact known
TO all connected with the royal household
that few stand in such high favor as the VEN
cradle general and his American wife, The
Kaiser has testified to his dislike of a wo-
mans expressing political views by his re-
preston of the Empress Frederick, but
Countess Waldersee's unusual powers OF
Judgment and discrimination are said to be
greatly esteemed by the imperial couple
Born Miss Lee, of New York daughter of
the wholesale merchant. David Lee. who. at
his death some thirty years ago, left some
thing like half million, the countess is now
handsome middle-aged woman most thor.
oughly identified with her husbands sur
rounoIngS ard sympathieS. Fortunate indeed
IS the incoming ambassador who succeeds
IN winning the prestage of her personal in
tefest To him open as by magic the doors
to the charmed inner circle which other
wise is only to be approached after countless
of German official life. The family of the
late Minister Phelps enjoyed to a great ex-
tent the Intimacy of their influential country
woman and attribute to this happy circlIm-
stances much of the enjoyment of their stay
in Berlin.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
SOMETHING ABOUT HAIRPINs.
Trivial as They Seem, They Are
Really an Important Industry.

1t was not until 1878 that the manufacture
OF hafrpins begun in the United States.
Previous to that time those used in this coun-
try were brought from England or France
There are now several large factories IN the
United States that turn out an article equal
If not superior to the best finished foreign
made pin. The trade is such a large one that
1t takes no less than $4,000 packages, each
containing from twelve to twenty pins. to
supply the wholesale demand daily in New
York alone.
The machinery used is OF a delicate and
intricate character the small prices at
which the pins are at present sold neces'sitata
the most rapid and cheapest process, which
can only be secured by automatic machines.
The wire is made expressly for the purpose.
and is put up in large coils, which are placed
on reels. The end of the wire is put in
clamp, which carries it to machine which
cuts, binds and, by delicate and instantan-
eous process, sharpens the pins. These ma
chimes will turn out from 500 to $50 ha1rpns
every minute. To economic 1t is often nee
essary to keep them working night and day.
The most difficult part of the work is the
enameling. which is done by dipping the pin
in preparation and baking it in an oven.
Here is where the most constant and careful
attention is required. as the pin must be
perfectly smooth and the enamel have fault
less polish. The slightest particles of dust
cause imperfections and roughness, which
are Objectionable and spoil the pin for the
market.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Aug. 4.-The latest fad
OF fashion is both sensible and eco
nomical as we'll as very charming. 1t
is lace and ribbon trimming. Not that
this sort of trimming is in use for the
first time, but it is the initial occasion
when it has been declared the thing to
use. Such dainty effects are obtained
with it and it can be carried out to ad
vantage by people whose purses are
either long or short. For the summer
girl it is particularly excellent, mas
much as when properly contrived it
imparts exactly that fluffy effect so
dear to her heart.
In spite of the fact that the tariff on
silks has been raised-it is the one
thing that the women know about the
new tariff bill-siIks have never been
cheaper than they are now, and par
ticularly the plain and figured silks
known as Chinese, Japanese and In
dian. 1t is to these perhaps that the
lace and ribbon trimming forms the
most charming garniture. 1t is well to
remember also when speaking of this
combination that both are as appro-
pirate for winter as for summer, and
therefore exceedingly economical, espe-
cially in the form of a tea gown. Its
style does not change, and so a summer
bargain in silk and trimming is just
as good for midwinter as for the time
of purchase.
Fifteen yards of twenty-five inch silk
will suffice for a tea gown having a
Vatican back and full 'front.' and
yard and a half less will do when this
broadly plated back is not used. The
first Of two very pretty gowns in this
style is simply a close princess with a
demi-train, and the upper part of the
front shirred at the neck and again
at a point below the waist line A
bertha formed of six square tabs,
wider over the shoulders, is edged with
lace and insertion, and the collar cor
responds. Collar band and belt are of
ribbon. The sleeves have a puff at the
top. an elbow ruff1e, and are trimmed
with lace at the wrist,
Soft wooden goods, such as cashmere,
would also be very effective for this
purpose, particularly with lace and
ribbon or velvet trimmings. The second
tea gown Of China silk has a separate
Vatican back or train and loose prin-
cess fronts, shirred in a tiny square
yoke at the neck. This is outlined with
a larger yoke effect of lace inserting,
and edged with lace forming scarfs,
extending to the belt of satin ribbon.
There is a full ruche of lace around the
throat and at the wrists. The sleeves
are full at the top and have deep cuffs
of the lace to correspond. Both the
gowns described are of plain silk, but
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08

toward the center of the cloth. covering it
with blossoms and buds on their own grace
ful stems. The napkins and doylies to match
this cloth have border of intertwined long
stemmed peoples with an uprooted blossom
ing plant in the center. Another beautiful
pattern has the golden rod arranged in
similar style on the cloth, while on the doy-
lies and napkins, from a bunch of roots in
the center the long, feathery blossoms reach
toward the hem. In lilac design the borders
OF the cloth and napkins are formed by four
long branches laden with blossoms and leaves,
the stems crossing in the corners.
On cloths especially arranged for round ia
bles the cosmos and pansy appear to be the
fashionable flowers. Sometimes entire plants
are used to form a double border, with plain
linen center and plain strip between them.
IN other patterns the blossoms are used with
their stems and leaves to form festoons
above the hem or are scattered loosely over
the entire cloth. All table linen, when not
iaee-trlmmed. must be marked with en-
brotdered initials. For napkins the letters
should be one and one-quarter inches long
while for cloths the accepted size is two and
half inches. These initials should be in
tertwined, but should not be in the oId-fash-
toned monogram.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08

bright colored Innings is falling off, and
the demand for black is increasing,
and as novelty, tan is being asked
for. The finer nantes still require
fancy Innings in ali silk.
For millinery velvet seems to have
been taken up principally as velours
miroir and velours soieil, in which form
it will be used extensively for ladies'
hats. This is shown by the early
Paris models. Regarding the fashion
able shade in this article, a change
seems to have taken place. While red
is failing off considerably, and light
g1eerS and kluets remain in favor, Their
is an unexpected demand fer beige, TAM
castor and grays, which, however, can
only be obtained in small quantities.
Fancy velvets will make their appear
ance again this season.
The prevailing style in bodices is a
loose banded blouse, which opens IN
the front to show vest. This fashion
has been very generally approved of,
but the very newest is a bodice cut up
on either side, discovering a silk un-
derbodice, and united by gold buttons
A very pretty white one was thus
mingled with blue and had horizontal
band on the shirt, the sleeves being
tucked at intervals all the way down.
Many blue drills are made in this style
and many more take the form of a full
blouse opening down the side and mid
die.
An innovation in the employment of
white silk is all important. Until Of
late white satin and white silk were
not at all considered suitable for morn
ing wear, but this is no longer the case
The parasols are made to match, gen
orally unlined, but all the dresses are
lined, or have distinct Innings, and gen
orally embroidered with cord or cover
ed with guipure. Black lace over white
silk is very much in favor, Chantilly
being the most popular lace for the
purpose, and sash scarfs of soft silk or
black ribbon are worn with such COS
tunes.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08

to hold the sacred habiliments of the wheel.
d ms Is a 1alrly large affair, not unlike the
dress suit cases for men, The women who huv
these all wear short skirts, with boomers
underneath, and there is little contrivauce
IN the bottom of the bag to hold three or four
pairs OF boomers in place and crease them
at the same time o1-
we have what we call the combination
annette Valise. This is large affair." as big
sticks, a place for a tennis racket. a connsrt-
ment for bicycle odds and ends and different
receptacles for the particular clothing which
goes with each sport. This isn't as popular
as the others, because it is too big and also
Ior the reason that it serves the purpose Of
half dozen small affairs
fhe small bags this year are largely made
OF sealskin, with clasps of silver and gold.
Lizard skin, with it's dainty covering, is as
popular as ever, and those of snakeskin. with
IT'S cool-looking, delicate gray, makes an ad-
mirable summer bag"
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
THE SUMMER GIRLS GRIP.
1t Is Called the Athletic VaIise and
1t Is q Novelty.

The dealer in all kinds of travelling bags is
very gleeful person this season.. One who
supplies his trade with every article in that
line of goods was heard to remark the other
day:
Prosperity has come our way in great Big
hunks 1t may not have hit other people yet,
but am not complaining. l am riding right
alo"g in the front seat of the band wagon,
blowing the trumpet in honor of the summer
girl Of 81 She's the cause of it, and l only
wish there was enough OF her to go around
for all hands. Nowadays the girl who is
going away for the summer isn't satisfied
with enc bag, as her grandmother was, or her
mother for that matter. She wants at least
half a dozen of all kinds, and sometimes a
dozen. She wants bag for days visit and
another kind for a three-day's trip, a third
for weeks stay, and for longer periods she
wants complete assortment. Then some of
them want certain kind to match a par
ticular gown. and if she has three or four
particular gowns she wants exactly that
number of bags.
Then there's the girl who has pet dog.
and she wants a valise to pack the buds of
the dog in. Oh. yes. the fashionable dog
wears clothes just as you do, only they cost
more.
''The true bicycle girl also has a valise
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
UP-To-DATE TABLE LINEN.
II Must Have a Large Floral Pattern
TO BE Deemed Modish.

Floral designs are now marked as the lat
est thing in table linen and the figures are
larger and more pronounced than ever
Instead of the single bud medum-sized
blossom, with an occasional leaf or sprig of
foliage, found the table linen heretofore.
damasks for the coming season display en-
tire plants or huge branches laden with both
leaves and flowers.
The newest and most stylish cloths have
plain centers, not satin damask, but plain
linen, with deep floral borders. extending
from the hem. In one design of this sort,
which is especially artistic and beautiful, great
punches of peoples. apparently pulled up by
the roots. spring from their bed of leaves
and grasses just above the hem and extend
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
F0RTY-SIX KILLED.
Explosion in a Cartridge Factory
in Bulgaria.

SOFIA, Bulgaria, Aug. IA disas-
trous explosion occurred yesterday at
the cartridge factory of Rustchuk, on
the Danube, 139 miles northwest of
Varna. Forty-six persons We're killed
outright and very many others were
injured. The lives of sixty OF the
latter are despaired Of Prince Ferdf-
nand, of Bulgaria, ON receipt of the
news of the disaster, visited the suf-
ferers from the explosion, who had been
taken to the hospital, and caused money
to be distributed among families of the
victims.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
APRONS AGAIN I'm FAVOR.
Their Quaint Primness Has Re-
vivaI in Society Circles.

Aprons. for so rnanyeyears regarded as the
distinguishing mark of serving women, prom
Use to be the rage in the smart set in Lon
don. The apron Of the, future. however, will
differ from that of the past which our grand
mothers used to wear In the days gone by
it was somber affair of black silk or ala
paca, sometimes i2set off by few dainty
tucks or rows of3herfing- bone stitching and
little very fine tlace.s Now the very cheap
est aprons are made of the finest white
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-08-08
SuIe Confirmed.

RACINE, Wis, Aug. Judge Fish today
confirmed the sale of the Bell City street
railway to Frank j. Miller. the purchase
price being $l50,0G0. new company composed
of old bondholders has been organized to take
charge of the road.
Freie Presse fuÌˆr Texas. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1865-1945, 1897-02-11

u,,u binter ibrem gtubf, I'M milf ibr
an,uitoben, ibr eine 8luue uoer einen
2ederbilien 3li briu9en, GILBERT Beti6
l6rieb ibr 3ettelden nit anitteloers
fen, ielblt ber 0rebfauer Materialuaas
renbdnbler serietb iiber ibren anblid
In lDrii@e Stimmuus unb idpdrulte
lie an.
5rau Gielemann binge9en nabm
nidt ben serinsiten s(ntbeil an ben Grs
folgen ibrer an9ebDrigen.
I'm 10 lauter ibr @atte tpurbe, unb
Inn 10 sefeierter ibre 3udter mar, I'm
10 nebr iGien lie ii6 Der allsemeinen
8ea6tuns Su ent5ieben.
Oie arme Srau lttt itdtli9 unter
bem 2drnen Der 2iid9eiellidaft unb
Der Sriidenben S9lpIle bes Raumes,
| lie fab beute alter unb binfdllieer aus
oenn le, llno ibre 9roBe Ioilette. ber
@lana Der 8ilienbers'i6en 6amiliens
biamanten, mabte ibr municipalities
ausIeben nod auffallenoer.
QSdbrenb Der Gafel bate bet Sim<
mel be9onnen, ii9 lansiam 5it triiben,
in rDtbli6zselbem Geuerbranb pers
| idipano Die Sonne binter etner @etter'
pano i'm @eiten unb balo barauf bedte
ben sansen Sinmel elm tnibfarbenes,
eintoni9es 8leigrau. GS ounfelte, unb
in benz 9roben arbeiteridu siinoete
! man nad atfgebobener 2afel bic 2ams
pen an. Die Oorfrnui iifanten auf be'
frdn;ten Sodium riilteten iid uno NIT
pinielnoer 9ultigfeit lOdten 8rumu'
bab unb Sieoel gum Gang.
Das 8rautpaar mubte BEN Gang er'
6ffnen, unb i'm bunteu Tur9einanber
folsten 9erren unb glrbeiter nit ibren
Tdnserinnen.
Die Tan3luft ities INNER b6ber, bic
@eisen ralteu, Stampfen uno Saud;en
beS @rbeiterpulfS erflllte ben &aum,
Die 2uft ipurbe bid, unS in benz r0tb'
li6en 9lebel bon Staub unb Ounit bill.
beten bic 0ampen peri6mommene 2i9t,
freiie.
Simmer mebr itnS mebr idmolsen
bic oeri9iebenen Gleuente oes eroBen
8reiies ineinanoer.
5ortieBuns foIet.
Freie Presse fuÌˆr Texas. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1865-1945, 1897-02-11

bas Meib einen tleinen &Iumpen bers
aus, IdBt i'm in ibrer bobIen 9an5.
fiddle ruben, rolt ibn bann NIT ber
anOeren 9aub gu einer augel unb be,
ginnt i'm raid au ber geb6riseu 9iinne
breitauf@lageu. mObei fe bic Singer
Der l9lagenben 0anb seididt aus
fpreiat, um benz BrDo einen m6gli9t
grOben lmfang au berleibeu. Bon
cine. 9anb sur anoeren tpirft unb met.
tet fe ben Brobtu9en, bis er pieIIei9t
einen 9ur6meRer bon 6 3ou (man9.
mal tuirb er aber aud 10 eroB pie Elm
Suppenteller) unb eine Side Don urs
9efdbr einem N@tel3oq bat. 9ieie
8rDbe perben zines mad benz anberen
auf ben Diem { n8faiero" seuannt) ge.
iGleuoert unb, menn bic eiue Seite
braun gemorfen TT, raid gemenbet.
ST cine partie fertig. 10 tperben bic
oampfenben 8robe, tbereinanber ee.
f6i9tet, in Elm Sud gebiilt. I'm fie
m69li@f lange marm gu baIten. 2ieb.
lid unb berftibrelifd III Der @sruG, Der
einem iol6eu 8rooftoBe entftr6mt.