The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1897-02-08

gan to rain, until it became quite dark
but finally, not catching up with the
train, we stopped at country house,
the woman permitting US, for a small
cOnsidera ton, to turn our mules in the
pasture and spread blankets on the
floor in a dry room. At 5 o'clock next
morning we were up, and after little
wading in the wet grass after the mule
were off in the rain and darkness. How
ever the light came, but the rain stay
ed We overlook the pack train at
little settlement called La Playas, and
getting something to eat, we pushed on
The road now began to ascend, first
gradually, then doubling back and forth
to make the ascent. My hair was in
clined to rise a little as we would look
right down into canonS of immense
depth but this soon became a common
experience For quite a while we were
going up through a cloud, taking a sort
of vapor bath, then we were clear above
the clouds and looking down on the
silver lining.
Just about dark we reached the top
and began to go down in the darkness
and the chill mountain air. As we went
winding down it almost seemed at
times as if one mule was directly above
the next, and I felt more like praying
than talking, but the sure-footed beasts
seemed more reliable in the dark than
in DAYLIGHT The clocks were striking
10 as we rode into the little village of
San Jose de Chimbo. In coming up
we were constantly meeting trains bear
ing the produce of the country down to
market AS also many poems bearing
heavy burdens suspended from strap
passed acros Stheir foreheads. These
poems are Indians and kalf-breeds.
Understand they were brought into
servitude as far back as Pizzaro. At
present it is a slavery of debt. If one
of this class gets in debt (as they all
are apparently willing to do) the law
compels him to work it out ut cents
a day 1 understand General AlbarO,
Oh, -,
20 cents day. 1t is a common sight
to see women of this class coming into
Quito bearing great loads of wood and
many other things by the strap across
the forehead, one we saw this morning
having babe at the breast.
Il shall not have space to go into the
details of the next five days travel, the
inspiring view of great, snow-capped
mountains and volcanoes, as Chimbo-
razO, COtOpaXi and Tungurahua. The
beautiful valley of Quito, through which
we were travelling three days, having
perhaps the most perfect system OF lr-
rigation in the world. Suffice it to say
that Thursday, the 18th, just one week
from the time of leaving Guayaquil,
we rode into Quito very tired, but re-
ioicing. Our two trunks, dashed to-
gether and placed on either side of
pack mule, came to hand in due time.
The tropical sun and thin mountain air
operated together to blister our noses
and faces completely. I think too. the
high altitude of Quito 10000 feet above
sea leveD was a little trying on US. 1t
took several days to get rested up.
1--WE have been looking around a lit
tie every day Quito and it's valley
are about as secluded from the rest of
the world as Shassa, the capital of
Thibet The people manufacture many
things as mating, furniture and an ex-
cellent article of WOODEN cloth. 1t is a
city of great and costly cathedrals and
churches, many and numerous process
sionals when the people for blocks take
off their hats and many kneel. Mr.. Till
man the American consul, told US to-
day there were perhaps 500 priests here.
Our thoughts were turned much toward
the great province of Oriente, the east
ernmost and largest of Ecuador In a
direct line only about IS miles to Arch
idon. the capital, one writer says there
are about $4,000 Indians The Suichua,
which is the prevailing language, is
largely spoken in Quito"