The record-union., 1897-12-25

ed. Another model, with penthouse
front and q short retrousse back, is
made Of two superb shades of dahlia
velvet garniture, with pale mauve
feathers, loops Of the velvet guipure
lace, and a trio of tiny East Indian
birds. A downy felt bonnet of creamy
gray tint is trimmed with sable bands
and tails and a number of green feath-
ers, above which hovers coiored bird
with outstretched wings.
A novelty in wedding dresses worn
last week was q white satin made with
a yoke of chiffon and a cuirass- shaped
drapery of satin embroidered with fine
silver and jewels-a treatment repeated
down the left side Of the skirt, with an
arrangement of orange blossom at the
right, wide at the base and tapering
toward the top, the transparent chiffon
sleeves slashed.
Among the wraps Of the season ap-
pear box coats of soft gray chinchilla,
seal capeS With grebe collars, three
quarter circular capeS of Alaskan sa-
bic, with immense Klondike collars
edged with darker fur. Then there are
Russian blouses of mink, beaver, otter,
chinchilla, or Persian lamb, black vel
vet blouses or jackets with narrow
trimmings of marten, otter, ermine, or
Astrakhan, and loose-fronted English
ulsters of black chinchlla cloth elabo
rately braided on the cape collar and
arched standing collar. Tan-colored
English walking jackets with large
revers collars of mink or plucked
beaver are also very popular as are
beige-colored ladies cloth jackets, with
vest, collar and cuffs trimmed with
straight rows Of brown and gold gimp.
Equally so are miroir velvet capes, and
capes OF velours Russo lined with bro
cade and decorated with jet points and
narrow fur bands; lovely white cloth
double capes lined with pink, yellow,
or mauve moire, and bordered with err
mine two inches wide; and pelerines,
Russian blouses, coats capes and red
ingotes of elegant looking silk plush
exactly like sealskin.
The simplest and perhaps the most
fashionable bodice for evening wear is
the full blouse shape of chiffon, droop-
ing over a fitted silk lining, the top cut
out in square or rounding fashion, with
full tulle ruche, a narrow band of
fur, fall of lace, or beaded revers to
finish the edge. The sleeves consist Of
short, full puffs similarly trimmed This
is basis for any kind of flower trim
ming that taste suggests. Rows Of
shaded pink roses devoid Of foliage are
in great use on evening gowns this
winter, as are maidenhair fern and lilac
sprays. laid upon strands of pink or
orange satin ribbon, not more than an
inch and a half wide.
Among the guests at a wedding was
noticed pretty gown worn by a tall,
slim girl. The gown was of velvet
cloth, with a draped skirt opening at
the side to show a very narrow panel
of darker violet, the panel being bor-
dered from waist to hem with a mar
row edging of mink. The deep brown
of the fur made a most effective con-
trast with the violet Of the cloth, the
harmony of color being carried out still
further in the bodice where the round
yoke Of dark violet velvet was bor-
dered narrowly with mink and the
sleeves finished on the shoulders, with
small pointed epaulets of velvet edged
with fur. The bodice of violet cloth
dropped slightly back and front over
belt Of gold galon and was fastened
over quite loosely on the left side with
frlil OF violet velvet edged with fur
The pleated round waist and the full
Russian blouse waist contest for favor
with the numberless chic little coat
| basques. very short, very smart, and
ri
see the basque portion cut in one with
the waist, and sometimes added on
In other instances, the coat or basque
effect is confined to the back only,
while the front is slightly pointed or
quite round. The back is in one seam
less piece, and is arranged in endless
ways below the belt line Short jacket
fronts made by leading French coat
makers open on full vests of any soft
material that gathers, peats tucks,
or can be arranged in effective sur
plice folds inside square or tiny round
ed Jackets of some heavy textile.
The rage for woven trimmings very
closely copying the most intricate and
dainty hand embroideries in shaded ef-
fects, is increasing rather than dimin-
lSHIIS, anu inventive genius Is COntln-
ually exercised to maintain a variety Of
patterns. Silk, arrascene Persian
beads. cut steel, jet tiny Roman pearls.
and creamy opals, sapphires, and other
glitta.ing mock jewels are each and all
employed. The effect of the new pas
semeEterie bands and elaborate orna-
ments en- applique is dazzling, and
these garnitures in original designs for
special portions of the skirt and bodice
of elegant dress toilets produce a re-
suit that is decidedly Eastern
The exGufsitely fine weaves in drap
d'ete Henrietta cloth, and double faced
cashmere displayed among attractive
| winter fabrics, in the daintier grades.
present wide range of rare and beau
tiful tipts not attainable in any other
fabrics of approximate price.
Six recent English bridesmaids were
gowned in white velvet, trimmed with
ermine. which was rather an innova-
tion-and a costly one.
Silver blue and pale golden russet
colors are combined in demi-dress cos
tumes of drap dete and repped silk.