New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-02-07
IS THE RAGE
PARIS GOWNS REvEL IN sPANGLEs'
MOCK JEWELS AND APPLIQUE WORK.
IDEAS FOR THE WOMAN WHO LIKES TO PLAN
HER SUMMER COSTUMES IN ADVANCE

Paris January 80.
What n wealth OF embroidery is being lavished
ynon the gowns of the moment and what variety
~ materials are used to accomplish these eaporate
designs
DESIGN and execution are combined with hand WORK
of fine silks effective chenille and narrow RIBBON III
e,,k or velvet used like strand OF embroidery SILK.
Foundations Of strong net are covered by orieh'"'
pattcrns blazing with gold thread and mock Jew
Ella 10 trim elaborate creations for the evening VI
afternoon reception when artiicta Ish's eie uSeu'
for these effects at their best then Hea''
trimmings are made of appliqued vevets or cioth IN
O. different shade from that used on the gown anu
surrounded by an embroidered pattern: or. IN place
of the velvet OF cloth. patterns may be ARRANGED VA
thin fur such caracule OF lace neutes uo'''"
NTH pailletes or brilliant beads Per1oratloNs are
moderately in vogue once more, the clo'h Oh '"e
GOWN sometimes being cut out In elaborate patterns
over n CAV contrasting lining, and the whoIe sur
rounded by pattern in colored silks. spangles ana
void thread As rule these trimmings are 81
elaborate and built Of SO many materials 'ia'
close examination is necessary TO oescrioe '"eii'
The effect of almost barbaric spendor IS the ono
snught for. This by means precludes gooo TASTE
- s,,dcmen. for when the garniture IS extremely
elaborate little of It may be used and the cut anu
general style Of gowns are so PLAIN no" ina. az
extrava gance Of trimming may be inouiseo III ',"'
would have seemed absurd on the costumes Vi
year ago 1t is certainly an indication OF an en-
naneive dress allowance. this wealth OF trimnphe'
,,,s, ". many skful fingers that gave up
londonderry when II went out Of favor on su'''ie'
,o,eI n,azzas some years ago. that might easA,
take II I'D again: and certainly goo tnreAo A"oNN
,oue,s and iridescent pailettes make the most at
tractive OF working materials
GREEK AND MALTESE LACE.
=, ,,ooe ~ hraiding, which is now somewhat passe'
no have elaborate patterns. followed py ha.fo"
hon f,,as OF cloth lace laid hatly on 'ne Sui
IL charming IS the Greek Maltese lace with us
.,-t,oa and designs that suggest those we fho
=, ,or,b window-pane Of a winter morning. o"'i
os,,vshons and old chests are being ransacheu no"
for lengths Of this beautiful lace tha' mas oee" ~
Iong disregarded by the collector anu nor
the real Venice point makes so beautiIui '''''e
on a velvet gown ,, .s,ob,,sh-
Tho gowns one sees in the dressmaKins es'Ao.'"
uents appear TO grow more summer-hke eNelS u"s
=, 4, ,osshle that in a week two the dressmakeis
,;l attend 10 our Partisan needs but al the plese
everything Is for the Riviera ana II IS .ei'a.s
..shivery" 10 comment on straw ana tune enap
.uc lace-trimmed gowns Of thin SILKS ih'enueu " "
worn minus a wrap. while the snow Is on 'iie eioN
and we are apparently threatened with an 'hi'a'o"
~ an American blizzard. But, for the wise woman
uh, lkes 70 feel that part OF her summer "a'"0Oe
safelv off her hands while winter is sun raging
some OF these descriptions may be OF value
There Is really no reason why at least proportion
OF the summer wardrobe shoulu not oe Nio"e'
now. certainly new frock INDUCED in at this sea
- sho,,d no made with a certain attention TO the
coming modes that will allow il 10 be OF service !a'er
p,,h the tight habi;-like skirt and tho nnch-
trimmed. rufied and slightly draped one nave neen
more or Jess tentative effects this winter puI oo"
have withstood storm of criticism ane may may Severe
70 have arrived" We are going 10 nave very era
tightly fitting serge gowns ana also l9ci, ,. uhicb
perhaps draped SIX ones dor ns e in the way OF
drapery is an accomplished fact. and moreSxeI; IA a
good pr STan p Paris s HeeT have oun
dalton skirt They difficult 10 hoid up OF cYuise
OF several frocks for the use Of the mondane who
has eye 10 the morrow
A QUAINT DINNER GOWN.
A quaint dinner gown has foundation OF SKY
btie satin covered with mousseline DC sole III the
sans shade. making a blouse. and fnii sKir' Inc
decolletage IS square. with an accordloh-piea.ed
ruf,e falling from the bust and almost covering
the corsage: and second pleating embroidered with
black lace figures, edgng the decolletage and COW
ering the short sleeves. over one shoulder trails
a spray of bright pink and pale green velvet roses
with black and Strauss diamond centres: Inc mar mar
full mousseline de sole skirt has pattern up the
apron and one about the hem done one, IN black lace
this is a shorter skirt, OPEN and sweeping away
iiounce of the same. that is. ornamented by, the
black lace. In this gown therefore we really have
mousseline de sole with it's embroidery of black
lace. and the shorter overskirt that gives novel
From the regular style Of trimming IN vogue a
year ago we seem TO have plunged into extremes
is modish style of garnture whether the line be
carried out on the skirt or not 1t is pretty, and
fuffncss. Then for street costumes. we have loose
short tackfts showing high ,, belt that close on
being carried out in side panel on the skirt We
less smart for all that.
J,r-NTy cTprrT CocTI-,1r
A jaunty street costume Is Of light gray cash.
mere with the skirt opening knee-high
side. TO show a tiny panel Of emerald green velvet.
The hem of the skirt and the sides edged by
guipure lace. laid over pale green ribbon, with
tracery Of gold embroidery. Frogs Of white silk
connect the rows q snail gold buttons on each
derwaist and high-draped belt of green velvet.
over this is a short, straight Jacket, opening on
side. bordered by the lace over the green. and
fastening with the frogs TO carry out the idea of
ed s s SeS hs Nth TEi
and the opening of the jacket finishes at the throat
slight drapery at the top. but are long and light.
making points the hands with ruffed under
The lightweight cashmeres lend themselves TO
pleating in the solid fashions. and are often en-
< skirt Of this sort. in pale green cashmere. EN-;
broidered in a pattern that is deep in front and
cloth. allowing for much-rufiled vest of pink
Black trimmings that suggest black accessories
in the way OF hat and gloves are effective Several
dainty figured silks trimmed either with black
lace. with profusion of black chiffon ruffles.
A dainty silk with a flower pattern running over
pink ground has a shirred cape arrangement OF
black chiffon. ending with a founce embroidered
in pink chenille. Similar rufhes trim the skirt. maxi
ing narrow band OF garniture I'm front and rising
high behind: after the latest mode The cOmbina
tion OF blue and black seems TO be more than COM
monty popular this season. and results in some
clever effects a pale blue cloth gown is arranged
with deep ounces Of black lace on the skirt head
cd gold embroidery,
ct on cOrsage. is edged by frill OF black lace,
and embroidered with the fine plumage OF black
ostrich tips with gold stems. The gown is really
not bizarre, for the embroidery OF black and gold
makes the only trimming. with the exception OF
frill of blue mousscline de sole about the deco-
letage and on the sleeves.
MISS STEWARDS MUSICAL CAREER.
I G.cuart Ararnatic sonrano OF ST Igua-