davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
NEW YoRK,s WoMAx CoBB1ER.
Mrs. Elizabeth Gill Hcuds shoes-ln Forne'
Days she Used to Make Them.

Mrs. Elisabeth Gill nrcuds shees-an FORMER
Days she Used to Make Them.
Mrs. Elizabeth Gill 10 the woman cobbler Of
New York city. Her little shop Is In the base
ment Of % North Moore street. II was there,
surrounded by tools and hammering away on o
pair Of mons shoes, that she spoke Of her work.
II was born and raised In Northampton, Eng
land, and began to make shoes when i was D
years old. Everybody made shoes In Northamp-
ton and children began at an early ago to sew
on straps. ! began just as other children, but
as I had q taste for the work l learned sooner.
When I was IS I made a pair Of shoes for my
mother. They fitted well, and she wore Thorn for
moro than a year.. But" hero Mrs. Gill shook
her head and heaved q sigh, Two used leather
in those days. All shoes had good. solid. hon
est leather soles at the bottom. They gave
satisfaction to the buyer and the makers could
take pride In every stitch Of the making.
about the time I was grown q friend OF
mine who had come over to this country to
work returned homo on a visit and begged me
to come back with her. I didn't mind. SO
asked her IL l could make a living II ! came.
She laughed and said I could make twice as
good a living here as there. So l came. We
landed in New York July 4, 1858, late Of an
evening, about 8 o'clock. You should have seen
the fireworks they were sending up down at
SAsllC uuIuti. ~ DO BIuHu.
when / first came over made uppers,
first by hand and later by machine. l earned
from $40 to $50 a week in that way; then when
] came home at night l often mended a pair Of
shoes. Those were the days when you go,
made a lot of extra money in the evenings
q week. and when ! made that I thought
was doing remarkably well, for those were the
wages OF frst-class men with trades, such al
carpenters. In 1878. ten years after l came
over. machinery for making shoes was so much
improved that there was no demand for people
to make uppers. SO l hung out my sign as a re
pairer. Ny shop was on Mulberry street and
! had just as much as ! could do. My regular
price for repairing and half selling now is 81
but everybody wants Inc TO do IL cheaper. TheJ
want to heat me down to 80 cents. / Away,
| tell them that at that price my materials cannot
be good nor will my work last. ] hate to do i
because l have no pride in a slovcnly job.
Then, 100. the shoes you wear now are no
half 30 good as they used to be. They hav,
such ugly shapes. Those ones with pointed
toes are horrible. The idea OF any one wanting
q shoe that has to have two inches of the to-
stuffed! While they are not nearly SO goo
they are very much more expensive. Why, IL
my day a lady could buy a beautiful pair o
shoes for 81 and have u pair made to order 70
$l.25; now look what they have 10 pay for then
and see how they wear out. Why, | know
woman who bought a pair OF shoes for her lit
tie girl the other day ut 40 cents, and the frs
time the child wore them out she got them we
and the soles dropped OF. They were pure pa
per: ,shoemakers didn't play such tricks q
that in my day"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
GLOVES FOR NEXT SEASON.
To Blend with the Costumes. as the Day or
Contrast Has Passed.

Contrast Has Passed.
The gloves for next season are tho suedes or
ooft-fnis he'd leather ones. For street wear they
are pique. stitched. and the most stylish have
but one button or clasp. These. of course. are
to be worn with tailor-made gowns and should
match the suit. Gloves Of a contrasting color
are no longer regarded as in good taste.
For cloth gowns the most appropriate gloves
for street wear or shopping are OF castor or soft
finished leather with one button. They are to
be had in all the dark shades OF blue. red. brown,
green and purple. to match the new dresslgoods
brought out for fall wear. When the gloves do
not match in color. English tans, the darker
biscuit shades and mole colors will be worn.
For more formal occasions and for wear with
silk. satin, and velvet gowns. suede gloves only
will be permissible. though they are so thin and
best quality OF glace kio. Pearl. white, yellow.
biscuit, and mole colors will pass as in the best
gloves OF these delicate tints is only a shade
darker The merchants assert that the hest
class Of customers never wear gloves which
some imported novelties in black suedes I'M
broidered on the back in bright cut je. The
R Fs"1s,. T frs et ,,ny IS yin novel w ana 6 6iSsi ,nRs w nnS
the New York women when they learn OF their
popularity in Paris, Other Partisan gloves are
In soft grays and mole colors and are stitched on
the back with steel and iridescent beads. They
are to be worn with elegant gowns on formal
occasions.
Evening, gloves are made longer than usual.
some OF them measuring more than one yard
and q half from the finger tips to the tops. They
for that reason the arms are made somewhat
larger. but not so tapering; Foreyening as well az
street wear the style will be for harmony rather
be had. as well as every con, civtblr shade
Some few are lace trimmed. others dnintily EN-,
s,I,nhin but the maj9rtty hay" no,I plain mach chin
or just one shade darker.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
GOWNS FOR THE FALL.
Cool Weather Costumes Ap-
pear in Many Styles.
SOME TO Be TAILOR MADE.
Others TO Be Loaded with Braid
ing, Frills, and Furbelows.

Wesan's Choice 70 Lie Between tho Severely
Piain and the Very Eiabo~rate-sieeVes to
ne Tighter stiIi. bat Vet Vet Carried TO the
Himits or Possibility-A Suggestion OF the
Overskirt-CIoths, Colors. Hats and Houses
a. They Have Been Decreed By Fashion.
The days are growing cool enough TO cause
enc to think Of the cloth gowns, and some gowns
that are already displayed In tho tailor.mado
style of light woollens give in advance some idea
Of next winters styles. The plain gown will be
seen only In the close-atting garments; all othor
gowns viii DO deliberately trimmed on the skirts,
and there are strong suggestions Of the double
or overskirt
The sleeves will not reach perfect tightness.
Ut least during tho winter. There will be some
thing at the top Of tho sleeves in tho shape Of
caps or other trimming. The Norfolk or Russian
blouse will DO very fashionable, too. with braid
ings in all styles, and some patterns will consist
Of three widths Of the braid or velvet Buttons
also will be a prominent feature. Narrow fringes
and laces will DO used profusely on silks and
woods for house gowns. Some Of the gowns show
On both sides q breadth entirely braided from
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
she Knew the Same. Too.
From III. Drtrrn frcs Press.

From the DSfrrif Fres Press.
Tho o. her day a Detroit youth who had come
home from college for vacation took his younger
sister out to sea a baseball game. She Is a
quiet, demure little lass. with blue eyes and a
timid manner. and she slipped into her seat in
the gran stand ns STATELY AS IS she were enter
ing the family pew nj church.
As the game progr sset he kindly underr onk
to exp in to her something about the points an
she "oul. underst nd at lie st a little about il.
Now the young man is ~ out to throw The
ball he snil. II Is snl!cd the pitcher. Til"
man with the stick ~ his hand is the batter lie
will try to hill the ball. and ii he dos he will rim
to that little bag. VIII, h j. calico a b. sc" '
The Young mans sister seemed to 10 uuitc in.
terrsted, aud listened ,ttentiycly to his explana-
ti0ns.
Presently somebody hit out a two.bapper Tint
went clear through the short stop, and lit nut
for first like It wild turkey.
The Young man began TO explain,
"Now," he said, "if the felder throws ,ho
ball to the man on III" BAG efOro-" '
The young man ceased sud emily.
His sister had sprung upon the bench. Rra bhed
his hat, ant thrown II into the crowd nni
shrieked at the tOn o Yer voice: ~
"N,h. yah. yah! WASH that a hot t,m,le,
Ss-ss'ss sZ-?Z-ZzZ-gct IA I short sion n seine.
Go II. Dempsey, you're u peach! Oh. lordy
what n iaisy %ruttor! Get him a basket
WWhoopge' don't that make your whiskers curl
,,,'sii down, Sis said the young man in a
slightly aEgrievcd tone. why didn't Won teii
me you were II ro0terf'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
THE NET DRESS TRIMMINGs.
Elaborate ana striking Effects In let ana
Braid TO Decorate the New Gowns.

Elaborate ana Striking ETrcts In Jet ana
BRAID TO Decorate the New Gowns.
The new dress trimmings for the coming sea-
son are gorgeous in color and design. Jet will
be used on both skirts and waists. but on silks
and velvets exclusively. while for handsome
cloth gowns braids. both silk and wool. will be
extensively employed.
The boIcro and Eton effects in Jet so popular
last season will he replaced by Jet hlouses or
low necked jacket effects. The designs of these
Jet trimmings are more elaborate thI any used
heretofore and the beads much larger. One Jet
blouse, designed for n coiored silk OF satin. was
made in a clover-leaf pattern. and the centre OF
each leaf WAS rormei by u tiat jet be q as large
as the first ,oint of = mans thumb, or course,
even the tiniesl piece used In this trimming
was cut ana highly polished. There WIS =
jet panel which covered the entire front
gore Of the skirt, and two narrow pieces
1ntlined he back seams Of, thc two side bro d,hs.
Thee all. carried out the Clovcr.le1f design.
Another similar set. in which even larger pieces
OF ct w re used, was OF howknots. This had a
low.ntcked hlou Sc, held In place on the should
ers by howknots with ends as wide as ones
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

hand. These trimminas come IN all the newest
oha dea and In Almost ns many designs ne there
are flowers in the fields. For evening veal, cut
steel, pearls, and sets jewelled in colors will be
used. harmoniEinR rather than contrasting with
the material and color Of the gown.
Tho braid sets used on cloth gowns are as elab.
crate and often quite rs expensive as those. OF
let and Jewels. The blouses, which are either
low or high necked. are Of braid woven back and
forth 60 as to show the goods beneath. In somo
patterns the little squares and diamonds thus
wheels or other simple patterns worked In silk
TO match the braid. The effect Is very like Mex.
lean drawn work. The skirts o. these gowns
ar" to he trimmed with panels OF braid In the
same pattern taperinR from the foot OF the
skirt to the waist limo, or with row after row OF
braid OF tho same width. On some OF tho more
deliberately trimmed cloth gowns there will be,
SO the tailors say. more than two hundred yards
of braid uacd
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
OLD GLORY OF THE r. r. US.
Virginia w~omanhood 10 Unchanged. but the
Men Are DeEenerating
Horn the 81. Loufs Globe-Deno

From the 81. Louis Globe Democrat.
On a night the past week the annual ball, the
season event. was given at White Sulphur
Springs. Virginia womanhood was on exhibi.
ton. and q magnificent display 1t was. Pow.
dered, court plastered, CARRIED In the styles Of
colonial days, these daughters OF Virginia
trooped In from the cottages till they filled the
spacious ballroom. The floor was cleared. and
measures OF a minuet. The sight was one to
warm the blood Of a Puritan. There is no do
nine side the F. F. =. Is a living reaiity' 'ne 'en'
a corner Of the room and following with KIND:
the lo oSss lines line 'e o1er the IL 1oG s.ase are s srseP sn d
trained just as carefully as they were when vir-
Zeal health. their education. their manners, arc
developed with that same scrupulous attention
20 eeir asi"ii T5 se" srs shs,5 Sss f,sr hm u soT re,
from mother TO daughter. II has undergone no
change II Is preserved in all OF its purity. We
whole country could view this scene tonight 1t
would be conceded that we have occasion to
Once more the long lines formed and swept
down the room; The gentleman Of the old
eehool forgot to nnish his sentence as he Joined
What is the matter with the Virginia men r
was asked Of a lady in whose veins flow the
long enough to have grown blunt OF speech.
"Whiskey," she replied without hesitation or
CuNllHCntiOn.
The gentleman Of the old school shook his
- ad regrettully as he added:
ginia."
While virginia wornanhood is as glorious AZ
ever. Virginia manhood is to q degree disap-
pointing. But the explanation Is not altogether
just; One nee not be long a traveller in this
land to discover that, go where he will. North,
West, or South, he will and the male virginian
nlling positions OF mark in the community.
Perhaps no other Stale in the Union has sus.
tanned such a drain of its best blood in the thirty
years since the war. Certainly no Stale has %
grow mp In other parts Of the country. In bust.
ness. in the professions. in the management; Of
transportation inter- SITS. Virginians are prom.
inent from New York TO San Francisco. from
Duluth 10 Galveston. By this drain the State
has gained in fame abroad. but suffered at homs.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

This is fastened closely in at the waist with q
narrow gray leather belt. The little gray toque
Of COARSE straw is finished with q broad bow and
dark red feathers.
Gown No. 4 is Of mauve cloth, a trife moro on
the red than the purple tint. The trimming Of
the skirt is in one deep vandyke on the front.
and Is Of an elaborate braid, quito new In pat.
tern. and Of the same shade Of the cloth. The
bodice is trimmed with tho same braid about
the open v neck and covering the seams. An
interlacing of the braid shows on the should ors.
Tho white satin vest 10 covered with guipuro
and has a collar band covered with the lace.
above which o full frill stands high in the neck.
No. 8 Ia a strictly tailor-made gown. 1t Is q
neat sack coat costume of light cloth Of almost
any Of tho modern tints. the bright touch of
Color being In some OF the silks used for the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

be as short as the bicycle skirt and. OF course
any material can be ~used-tweed. cheviot, or
serge. In No. o the first costume Is admired for
Its severe simplicity. II is made OF brown
mixed tweed with pronounced red spots. ana
1t has q circular skirt. The belted jacket
has a deep yoke and a pleat down the
front. These, with the cuffs. are piped with
red. as is also tho deep. turned up hem about the
bottom OF tn skirt. In No. 10 the gown is or
cheviot. with n deep border OF plain cloth OF the
same tone q out the bottom Of the skirt, The
blouse un err the ] cket is OF the same plain
cloth. The ong Jacket is of the cheviot; Its tiny
shoulder pc. alt ough lose to the FORM Is
fitted over the arm to give full play, and Is but
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

The pouch coated figure 10 in Q bright blue
cloth suit deliberately trimmed with black satin
strappings edged with a fine black and gold
cord. and finished Mt each end In a braided de-
sign Of tho black and gold cord. Hussar strap
pings trim the bodice and form the epaulets;
this opens over a very attractive waistcoat OF
cream canvas, embroidered in gold and silver.
The sleeves open at the outer edge Of the cuff
and button up with two buttons. The hat, of
blue. is covered with black feathers. The more
elaborate gown is gray. with its elaborate ap-
pliqu6d design in black cloth. Tho closely fitted
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

Jacket No. 7 is very much moro elaborate.
and Is Of a bright blue cloth. trimmed with
irregular rows OF black velvet about the waist
The facings of the huge collar and revers are of
Oriental embroidery on a dark red foundation.
and are edged around with pencillings of mar
row. black velvet. The hat is black; the ro-
settes carry out the coloring Of the embroidery.
The three figures in the larger picture are for
the early winter or late fall. Strappings.
braid!ngs. and applique are the three features
Of them all. All are Of cloth. The one with
the three'quarters coat Ia dark green. with a
belt of black, studded with steel, covering the
seam that joins the skirt OF the coat TO the
waist. A trellis Of black braid in different
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

On both edges. Extending down from the waist
ID a short braided design, over the side seams.
which is matched on tho fronts of the jacket.
This jacket opens on a black satin waistcoat
that Is made of an arrangement of folds fitting
the figure. The white linen collar and blue hat
with black plume make a charming finish.
No. 8 Is Of gray cloth, with touches Of dark
rcd. 1t has q plain skirt lined throughout with
. dark red silk. while the pouch hoiice fastens
on the left side in a series of scallops deliberately
braided in gray and finished with barrel but
tons also Of gray. The bodice opens over a rcd
cloth underbodice striped with alternate broad
and narrow gray braid, The tiny b,sque car
Eies out the SAINT effect. being cut into deep
sOallops TO show the broad red cloth beneath.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05
RETIRING FACE CREAM.

N"NNIFNNTLNFD ONLY BY
MARY Sc TT X l"LASD,
l2s FIFTH Az, NEAR lbTu ST. NEW YORK
FOR DALI AT KlKER'S, ii u Az Ann "a III
And Mrs. RuMBALLNs. l6l NEW BoND ST. 10 mon.
Descriptive Booklet mailed scaled for Il, stantn.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

toned over, like revers, with ono button. The
belt is Of the plain cloth that faces the skirt
Tho red golf coats are the favorites, and are
worn with any kind OF skirt The right length
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

waist to hem with Q finished design. Some
have each gore piped with satin to contrast with
che material and to harmonic with the trim
ming. Checks will DO used. and the pretty wool.
lens in shepherds plaid will be fsvorites.
A pretty brown and white check 10 made mp
with q panel of guipure lace over brown satin,
with triple rows Of brown velvet on each edge.
and the same three rows of velvet about the
pouch bodice, while about tho waist In Q bias
belt Of brown velvet.
Another stylish gown 10 made Of light tan.
with nne strappings Of black velvet encircling
the sk.It bslow the hips. contrasting trimming
finishing the bolero bodice. which opens over Q
white front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

coat 10 buttoned up with three hligree silver
buttons. The collar. gauntlet cuffs and pocket
lids are of black cloth edged with white. as well
as the ono revers; these are covered with pieces
Of guipure lace while a full jabot Of the same
lace falls from the throat. The gray straw hat is
trimmed with black feathers and full bows Of
white ribbon.
Illustration No. 8 shows q comfortable mack
intosh skirt and coat. to be worn over an gown
or with a shirt waist. The sleeves are made so
as to button over and at closely about the hands.
and with a hat to match. no one need bother with
any other protection. The next two illustra-
tions are of golf gowns, which are not only very
taking, but in every way useful. The skirt must
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-09-05

Tho Arst illustration shows ono Of the tailor
made gowns In tho advance fashion. and 10 Q
decided novelty in a three-quarters coat, with Q
long. shaped basque. fitting closely to tho figure.
The skirt of the coat Is set ON Just below tho
waist line. and flares but a trife. About the
bottom and edging the collar Is o narrow band
Of Caracule. above which. as well as down the
waist, Is q braiding in q conventional pattern of
silken cord. This costume Is OF dark blue cloth.
The Copy hat has Q crown Of the blue cloth.
with its frilly brim of blue mousselin de sole and
birds Of paradise plumes at the side. Delicate
bun gloves complete this costume.
The next gown. No. 2, ia q dark gray-blue.
This has q trimmed skirt, but of the stitched
ptrappings of the gray blue cloth. curved above
Tie hem and relieved by q tiny cord Of silver
The Bryan daily eagle. (Bryan, Tex.) 1895-1898, 1897-08-04

Amoag the sensible vacation rigs fui
children are li,tle dresses % stou'
serge or nanneL made with waist anf
skirt an one. a narrow gulmp az ihs
neck. and a little jacket that can &
on In the early morning and az The sur
goes down. This sort OF rig D. showt
Tor tots of , and Tor misses o. &c. somt
mothers carry their notions % seuslbl,
drss'lng much further. and there an
this very minute In back country places
and unfrequented resorts where fash
ionahle yet devoted mothers TAX theh
children many little maids kickln,
their enfranchised heels IN knlcker
lockers. while their sturdy little chests
expand Ia sweaters. They look a. cut
o. can be. and are a 10; more comfort.
able than their little fasalonable rc.
sort sisters Ia musllns and silks 4
summer in that style 90 costume. rea
son .Aese mammas. wili make a Mtili
weakling a sturdy child. and Il certain.
~ doesn't work In the opposite way
afAAAAAAtHH NNNA" NANANNNM NNN - NNAMII'
ant 10 start their little maids In I'D
vance dress reform "a they would be q
take Il up themselves. and 80 such COS
tunes Tor little girls a. those showr
here are In hiEh favor The model al
the lcfi hand was Of a lightweight
dark red stun. It's skirt had thrc,
vide tucks around the bottom. toppe,
by a looped black soltache trimming
The blouse waist had a square yokl
and was hordertd with a bias fold @
the same shade Of silk. one end run
airs, down the left side and bearing
row OF silt buttons The stock cola
was silk. finished by a narrow mousse
line frill. the sleeve pulls were ais
tucked and soutaehed and the belt wa
scarlet gruSgrain tied In a long sasl
IN back. The other dresa was Tor
hi, older child than vas i,s companion
In the picture. Il consisted Of a plaii
skirt Of porcelala blue wooden goods
The Bryan daily eagle. (Bryan, Tex.) 1895-1898, 1897-08-04


Not many womea nv g. on Aisa.sa-
ippl valley farms accustomed 10 the
rigorous econoaf "a hard work done
by their country ssteru In New Eng
land. The latter not oalys do their oyn
work. but they are able and willing 70
milk the COWS and assist with the hay
getting, and IN other ways lend hand
out OF doors In emergencies. Some Of
them even exc out the family income By
little ventures Of their own. such as
raising hens and beesand gathSlnga and
marketing spruce gum, beechnuts and
blueberries There IA no servant girl
problem, because there are no servants.
When sickness or some other real dis
ability neccsaltatea female help In the
household neighbor's daughter 81
called In. She is q course. regs.ded
and In every minuiest particular treat
ed as a member OF the family; II could
not be otherwise. The children are
trained 10 bear their share Of the fam
~ burden. 50 FAR as Il can be done
without interfering with their school
ing. and the very school terms are ar
ranged with a view 10 conflicting al
little as possible with farm work. When
the children grow up many OF then
go out into the world 20 seek their for
tunes chat within reasonable limits :,
a Law o. naturel. bat there Is nothing
like an exodus Of the rising genera
tlons. no approach 10 a depletion. Plen
" OF ambitious. vigorous young mel
stay behind 20 arrange themselves Il
life as their fathers did before them