The herald., 1897-02-28

Is done now to produce lightness, and
split straw and split rush help to carry
out this idea. The best looking sailors
with a double brim are still as light as
a feather.
From time to time hats have been
lined in various ways and the Russian
leather was one Of the novelties; but
now velvet has been appliqued into this
leather Just on the forehead, making it
soft and very comfortable wear, for the
insides have to be considered as we'll
as thesout. Not but what there is a good
deal to be thought of with regard to the
outside. Green and white rustic plaits,
red and black, deep pink and other tones
are specially noticeable, and there is a
decided feeling for green of all kinds.
1t will take some educat ton to accustom
ourselves to the bright glow of color,
which Will appear not only in the trim
mings but in the fabrics of which the
spring hats are to be made In the
winter high crowns were brought out,
and there are still good many in the
new models; but medium crowns are
likely to be the fashion.
White satin and other ribbon rosettee
are the favorite trimming, and a great
deal of the finest pedal straw is en-
ployed for cycling hats, for which enor-
nous preparations are being made. One
OF the favorite notions for this popular
10 OIL the
Panama knockabout hats, worn last
year by gentlemen in many colors. Deep
req, rose pink green and purple-all
these colors appear in straw hats. A
new shape, the 1897, has besides the
crown curious bisetu, that is a sort
or rounded channel which unites the
crown and the brim. Broad velvet sur
ROUNDS the crown OF many of the Manila
ana Java cycling hats, but in real truth.
pretty nearly every kind Of fancy straw
Is being employed
one or the newest Of new ideas is the
Astronomical carpet, in which the signs
OF the Zodiac and the signs of the plan
cts take the place of the familiar nursery
rhyme figures. Children are thus en-
apied 10 learn these signs at a glance.
while they form in themselves a quaint
and original scheme of decoration. The
idea has been adapted to door curtains,
table cloths, etc, as well as to carpets.
and may be carried out in applique on
art or serge or cloth, in Turkey twill on
white ground, or cream swansdown on
red ground. A special blue flannel
has been made for the purpose, which is
particularly effective with the pictorial
designs carried out in cream or old gold
applique; this material has the advant-
age of washing beautifully. The work
Is amusing, and by no means difficult to
execute.
Ladies' waists next season are to be
without yokes. the number of styles pre-
vailing being confined to two. The first
of these has one and -eighth-inch
box plait which closes with six pearl
studs, while on each side there are three
seven eighths-inch box plaits. These
plaits do not continue down the back.
In the second style the material is
gathered in many fine plaits in the only
seam on the shoulder az we'll as gather
ed similarly at the waist. The plaits
open out over the bosom, giving the
stouter portion OF the sex that delightful
appearance of being perfectly in propor-
tfon without being squeezed all In a
bunch. One other style has one CEN
ter box plait of one and one-fourth inch,
and one on each side of the same width
The side plaits continue over the shoul-
ders and down the back to the waist. A
new feature Is found in the turned back
cuffs. closed with pearl studs.
The genius who thinks up all the
things that are new in the way Of Ia
dies boots, has evolved variety which
Is of solid white so far as the uppers are
concerned, the soles and heels are
brown, and the button Of that never
come-off variety. One sees them in the
shops Of the fashionable dealers, but
inquiry as to when they are to be worn,
or what particular want they are sup
posed to fill, rails to reveal the facts. It
Is as great mystery as the reason why