davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26

COTTAGE on Beretania street, near
corner of Alapai in the yard OF Mrs.
Damon and formerly occupied as a
Child's kindergarten. Would make
an excellent Studio or Bachelors
quarters. Large Room and Lanai.
Inquire on premises or at my Office.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26
{. D. CHASE.
Real Estate Agent
IN .-
Notary Public.
407 Fort Street Telephone 1874
FOR REM T.:

STORE on Beretania street. next door
to the City Feed Company. This is
a very desirable place for a Grocery
Store, being in an excellent locality
to draw trade from. Will lease for
a term of years. Building new.
Inquire at City Feed Store, or at my
office.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26

STORE on Fort street, suitable for
almost any business. Store new;
Location excellent. Rent very rea-
sonable For further information,
apply.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26
OUR GOODS

For the after Christmas
season partake Of the same
excellence Of quality as that
for the holidays, and as is
usual everywhere the price
goes down. We are now
offering handsome bed room
sets in hard wood at redicu-
lOuSly
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26
NIGHT WI BURNS

Continued from First Page.)
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26
Prices.

We have furniture coming
on nearly every vessel from
the Coast and we sell it
quickly at a small profit,
rather than have it acCum-
mulate and become shop
worn. Our present stock
comprises:
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1897-01-26

Adapted for Dwellings,, Offices and Pub
lie Buildings or any other place where
KALSOMINE is used. 1t will not rub,
iiscolor or scale off.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

three straps of black satin ribbon, made
somewhat in zouaye form, with revers
faced with biscuit-colored cloth braided
IN black, showing a pieated waistcoat of
black satin, which fastens double -breasted
at the waist, while sash of black satin
hangs to the hem. Taken all in all, this
is most satisfactory creation, as is like
wise quaint little Eton jacket of black
velvet, which has every seam outlined
with black and silver braid. Silver but
tons of beautiful workmanship hold it
together at the waist.
The mousquetaire sleeve. about which 1
wrote last week. has created no little COM
ment, and ] have been urged to give an
illustration, so l have procured one, and
for the benefit of those who did not see
the paragraph to which l allude / repeat.
"a novelty in ball-gown sleeves is
boon always. This seasons creation is a
long lace mousquetaire sleeve falling well
over the hand. The lace. for instance,
will be black, palette in bright or dead
silver, the spangles of the smallest size.
The sleeve will reach above the elbow
only on the top of the arm, but will pass
underneath and attach itself 10 lace
epaulette. The effect of the ellipse of
bare arm is charming, and the sleeve
most graceful, giving that length of
arm which adds so much to ones
height. There has been disposition to
discard these long sleeves on evening (full
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

covered with diamonds formed the low
bodice. The sleeves, OF gauze plisse,
reached the elbow.
A Princess who was present, wore a
rarely beautiful white MORE. which had a
flowing pattern of mauve and pink leaves
lightly EN- broidered with tiny spangles of
gold and silver. The skirt was cut accord
ing to the very latest mode, being plain
on the hips with three small pleats at the
back, but they did not form godets. Il
was demi. trained and lined with mauve
satin. The bodice was low and pointed,
and had most artistic spangled plastron
of mauve. Round the neck was full
ruche of the same, roses and vlolets
mingled with the gauze.
iaThe sleeves were short and slightly
pulled. Another pretty woman wore over
sea-green silk simply ravishingly beautl-
Jul net EN- broidered in real opals. with
ruches of lace. And here let me remark
that ruches are enjoying great amount
OF popularity, and the old. fas hioned idea
OF wearing band of black velvet around
the throat, held in place by jewel or
jeweled ornament, threatens to be the
style again.
On another festive occasion leader of
fashion was gowned in a vert d'eau bro
cade; the long skirt had ouile in front
and many flowers were employed about
the bodice, but flowers are never out of
fashion and always lovely. The slippers
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
London Cloth Models.

The English tailors certainly make a
great success of cloth gowns. About some
of the latest am sure you will be glad to
hear when you know that they emanate
from a celebrated Oxford street house
Imagine how appropriate for a handsome
brunette would be costume made of a
bright shade OF blue cloth-almo Prus-
sian blue 1t is braided in black, and in
form the coat is suggestive OF very
smart mess jacket. The neck band and
cuffs are of dark red, covered most effect
lively with black braidlng. The skirt is
absolutely plain.
Mushroom-tinted cloth Is employed in
the composition of gown made with a
bodice bolero set into tucks showing a
yoke of the new shade of bright grassy
green velvet covered with cream colored
lace. Narrower lace of the same tone
forms a little frill down the side, caught
here and there with two tiny bows of the
green velvet. The waistband is made OF
black satin.
OF black and buff material is q good
dress. On the hips are two narrow straps
OF black satin, apparently held in place
with buttons at the back. 1t is caught
into two little puffings. The bodice is
made with sort of corselet formed O.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

worn with this conception were of dark
green satin, embroidered at the tips; the
stockings were mauve Continuing the
subject of evening gowns a correspondent
states that on another occasion a fair
countess wore pink MORE becomingly
fashioned. The sleeves opened on the
side over panel of soft pink gauze plisse,
which simulated an underskirt, and was
bordered with two rows of gold EN- brold-
cry, which sparkled with jewels. At the
left side the bodice had a draperv of pink
gauze, and on the right one of gold lace,
richly ieweled.
The short sleeves were puffs OF gauze
held in at intervals with pink ribbons.
Pink feathers composed the fan and the
necklace and tiara were of pearls. The
pink satin shoes, spangled with gold, were
worn with pink silk stockings having inser-
tons OF Valenciennes lace. The long pink
ish-white gloves had bracelet fastening
With this toilette was worn "a short cloak
and pelerine OF bright pink ottoman, hav-
ing an edging OF chine white silk and
quite an amount of white chenille en-.
broidery and shaded posies. In front were
tulle quilts wrought with gold and sur
rounded with white feathers. Pink gauze
formed double ruche around the neck;
it was plisse and fell on either side of the
Quills.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
Shirt Waists and Ties

Have gained so firm footing that again
will they claim our patronage and be cor
rect to wear during the next six months.
AT present the tailor shirts of silk or
wool figure in the wardrobes of New
York smartest maids and matrons. In
all respects they are made like cot
ton wash shirts. They have narrow
neckband, TO which is attached white
linen collar. Those having long slender
threats now wear their collars with
stock, which may be of either black or
watered silk. Black is preferred. The
latest ties are made on the stocks, and are
of silks of different kinds tied in bow.
Ribbons are now never worn with shirt
without stock.
The cuffs must be of the same material
as the shirt, straight, and in width about
81 inches wide.
The shirts now enjoying as great
vogue as the cotton ones ever did are to be
worn, presumably. beneath the heavy
cloth waiking-jacket, and may match the
suit or be contrast 10 it. Plaid hannels
make very stylish shirts. One having
three broad box-pleats at the front and
back is fastened down the front middle
plest with small gold studs. When made
by tailor such shirt costs in New York
S13 50-a really extrsvagant price should
say. But if you wish one of a changeahle
blue silk poplin MORE, with some tiny
tucks set quite far apart, both back and
front, from the shoulders half way to the
waist with rather bssque-shaped sleeves,
very much gathered along the upper seam
| lengthwise, you will have to pay, if order
ing from an Eastern tailor, $25. Could l
carefully examine such shirt l might
consider it worth the price, but most girls
can have such garments made at far more
reasonable figures by purchasing a good
pattern, IS they are not at all difficult to
make.
Vogue says: Equally simple in make
and much less In price are some flannel
shirts in plain colors and plaids. both
made with yoke back and full-gathered
front, one straight plat down the center.
The sleeves are gathered in toward the
wrist in fine side plaits, about six in num-
ber and end in straight cuff. Price S."
Plain and changeable taffetas are to be
largely used, but l cannot recommend
them to any one, as really they are far
too common and ordinary, and as for
those made of china silk, l consider them
be INDUCED in only in the country.
Skirt and jacket suits will be more popu-
lar than ever all through the summer,
and the smartest coats will either be
rather longer than usual or ve-y short.
With a liberal allowance of shirt waists
such a suit, when the work of one of our
best tailors, and silk-lined. may be worn
with perfect satisfaction on any number
OF occasions. and girls on limited allow
ances should first of all secure one of
these dresses and with what remains OBJ
tain what they can.
When made with an adaptable jacket
such a gown may merit the term chic as
we'll as stylish. quote the description of
such one:
"a jacket that looks equally suitable
whether worn on the street or at a concert
or tea is made with the fronts double. On
the street the jacket hooks straight up the
front, which is braided on either side and
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
The Russian Fatigue Coat.

NOT having seen one l quote a descrip-
ton from an undisputed authority, which
l advise you to study carefully to begin
with: ut is tight-fttlng, with high,
straight collar. buttons across the shout
der, and from there in a slanting line
down to the bottom of the coat, about five
inches below the waist. The buttonholes
are under fly. and the buttons, which
are OF lasting, do not show. Frogs of
black braid, beginning with a long one,
reach from shoulder to shoulder and grad
ually grow smaller. The collar has sim
gle llue OF braid at the extreme top, which
Joins loop on the top corners in front
and comes down the edge on each side of
the opening, which is directly in front.
The sleeves are moderate coat sleeves and
have single line of braid around the
edge. which runs up about six inches on
the side, forming pattern to match front
braiding. The seam on either side of the
back seam is covered with braid which
forms trefoil pattern top and bottom.
The bottom of the coat is plain and fits.
the figure smoothly over the hips. There
is neither braid nor stitching on it. In
the center of the back is a double box plat
lying Hat" The skirt is absolutely plain,
but perfect in every respect.
rough material of a slate color with a
hairy surface, known as Oxford, is the
most fashionab BILE material for tailor gowns.
The leading tallors put no stiffening in
the basques, as the lining used. an excel
lent quality of satin, is all that is neces-
sary.
Buttonhole flowers are not now a bunch
OF violets, lilies of the valley being the
fashion.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
(Notice this to-day. This ad. may not
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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

in, even the most vivid tones, and we will
all have to accustom ourselves to bright
colors this year if we wish to be up to date,
for not only are our hats, but also our
gowns, parasols, etc., all to be vivid in
hue. Already green and white rustic
plaits, red and black, deep pink and gray
are arriving for the future adornment of
our bellies.
Speaking of novelties reminds me that
among the latest shapes are noted the
Russian crown. The vegetable silk will
be most extensively employed.
Bonnet toques are the new bonnets to
be called, and this makes rs at once think
OF the soft round form. However, these
have quite different shape and all have
some sort of crowns. Many are shaped
like pInnacles, others not unlike jam pots,
and not a few have a brim of pleated
straw. This ruche is also to be seen on
the hats. The latest crowns almost all
widen toward the top and diminish where
they join the brim. l am happy to say
that it is to be fashionable to have both
toques and hats lit the head closely.
Many chapeaux have a double brim,
the underneath one usually contras ting
sharply in color with the exterior brim.
Colored chips are to be often made up as
brlms or crowns. Sailor hats will be much
in evidence, and It has been decided that
the old original shape is the best. Now it
is to be had in navy blue and many shades
of red, with striped ribbon bands, as well
as a narrow binding at the edge.
Not long ago, at church wedding, a
hat OF turquoise blue velvet, having Tam
O. Shanter crown encircled with bands of
white velvet, was much admired. 1t was
richly embroidered in feur-de-lis, worked
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
Styles for Men.


Scaripins are not as fashionable as they
used to be for men, but fine pearl or
smooth ball may be worn.
l heard few DAYS ago of a we'll known
San Franciscan who has recently
returned from his first visit to great city
many miles from here. He has many
things TO relate concerning his travels and
numerous are the curios, ETC., collected by
him, but think his most valuable acqui.
sitions are his shirts with attached cuffs
and properly fitting collars; indeed, he
admits himself that he never knew how
comfortable a good collar was until his
visit to a weIl-known haberdasher's.
wish l could impress it on you all that the
majority of men do not pay a proper
amount of attention to their linen, and
how utterly useless to lavish care on other
garments when their linen stamps them,
In other cities bank clerk would scorn
to be seen with such cuffs as many a capt.
talist wears with serenity, and as far as
collars are concerned all of US have seen
men wearing them too large. too high or
too tight, without the smallest considera-
ton of their style. Short-necked, fat,
puffy men do look so miserable in collars
too high for them, but perhaps not quite
so absurd as do others with great thin
necks disfgured with Adams apple, who
wear the lowest possible neck dressing.
1 positively believe that they would
delight in Byronic collars. Men to look
we'll in the high banded follower collars
must have good necks and perfectly
formed chins.
Concerning these important articles
HIN asks: DO you know how to tie your
scaSfsP If you do. skip this; but, as
matter of fact, few men know how to per-
form this nice operation. They may be
able to adjust the scarf in a fashion, but
to get out of silk all that there is in it
one must know just how to lay out the
scarf before he turns it over for the final
adjustment. In making bow bring the
ends out square and even. In tying an
Ascot be sure that the ends are even and
absolutely true at the top of the center
piece before you cross them. II you do
this the effect will be good. If you are at
all careless in the first moves you will
make failure of your effort"
A critic remarks with much truth: ST
have always noticed that when anything
noticeably radical was introduced, it was
Killed as soon as 1t became popular. Its
pure radicalism killed it. You cannot
afford to wear anything that accentuates
the mode. OVERRIDING dress is worse than
underdoing it. Your personal taste must
mot be allowed to dominate absolutely.
There are standards to conform to, and if
you conform to them with any degree of
judgment or taste, you will be well
dressed. The well-dressed man is he who
is dressed in such exquisite taste that his
apparel does not attract attention.
Peculiar ties, shirts. waistcoats and hats
attract attention. So do diamonds and
massive watch guards. 1 associate all
these things with men who, lacking edu-
cation, wit or refinement. cover them
selves with huge and glittering pieces of
gems and fabrics as their only means of at
tracing attention to themselves" c. C.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

witted, with the art of saying the right
thing at the right time. She must De
pretty well up In the scandals OF the hour
and the novels, good player of outdoor
and indoor games and possessed OF ca
pacity for taking trouble in order to pre-
vent herself being bored. Small talk
must, of course, be in her equipment and
she must cultivate the art of being agree
able all round. Indeed, the profession OF
smart woman is a most difficult one to
adopt and a girl should ponder we'll before
going in for IT," MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

has the appearance of plain tailor made
Jacket With chinchilla collar. At tea,
etc., the wearer can UNLOCK the outside
fronts, which turn back, forming narrow
reVers of green velvet, with which the
fronts are lined, and display the inner
fronts. which are made of inch insertion
and fine lace. This jacket is both con-
venient and modish."
The handsomest of such gowns are to be
made OF plain cloths or cheviot, and the
seams must be plainly stitched up. For
Inc skirt, If the fabric is light in weight,
tallor's canvas should be used around the
bottom not DEEPER than six inches. 1t
must be stitched to the lining, not to the
cloth, and all flare and fullness is in the
back, where it is held in place by elastic
bands that extend from plat to plat and
are covered with silk, pieces from the
skirt-lning being utilized. But if hand
some tailor gown is desired the very
newest fashion for basque is known as
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

with fine rhinestones. At the left side
four black ostrich tips were arranged fan
shaped. Underneath the brim there was
also a tuft of feathers, very small ones.
The wearer of this creation wore chic
cape of crepe de chine of the same tur-
quoise hue This was covered with the
most delicate of ChantilIy lace, dotted
with silver spsngles. The oval yoke was
outlined with two fluffy ruches of NOUS
seline de sole, closely pleated. Down the
middle of each ruche was a narrow ribbon
of black velvet; this ribbon formed I'M
mense bows in the front.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
Toilettes at a Partisan Din
ner Party.

Last month the very hospitable Marquise
de Brod gave a dinner, at which the
gowns of her fair guests were veritable
models of Partisan taste and elegance.
The hostess received in a rich black
Lyons velvet dress lined with white SATIN
The skirt was very long, and all the seams
were concealed by a narrow ruching of
black gauze chiffon, and here and there in
the ruche diamonds cleaned. Gauze
chiffon plisse and bretelles of satin literally
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

ALMA E. KETTH.-Mme. Alma E. Keith an
nounces that spring Paris importations in fine
millinery are arriving daily at both stores,
"a Kearny street and 300 Market street. Phe-
Ian building. Owing to the plumbers of the
telephone company had mine taken out.
Send orders by messenger at my expense.
Yours always, ALMA E. KEITH.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21
Shoes and Slippers.

Bronze is again being quite extensively
used for dancing slippers, as it has the
effect of narrowing and making the feet
look small. Satin is liked for these prop
critics also, and has the advantages of
being more comfortable and plant to
dance in; besides, when satin slippers
match the gown nothing can be prettier.
Many are now most gracefully and artis-
tically embroidered with imitation Jewels
by the fair owners. OF course the fronts
only are so adorned. 1t would be we'll 10
remember that only tiny buckles of paste
or steel ornament the best shoes, the huge
affairs being no longer seen, although a
leading shoemaker tried few days ago to
induce me to invest in a pair. A tiny bow
nicely incrusted with jewels, is also in
good taste.
The demand for laced shoes is largely
on the increase, for more women are in
duiging in long walks, and the support
given by laced shoe is considerably
greater than that given by buttoned one.
and since skating has been the vogue East
many who have not strong ankles are
wearing laced boots that also button, as it
is thought that by first of all lacing the
boot beneath and then buttoning a flap
over it an immense amount of support is
afforded. This may be the case, but the
combination arrangement must make the
average ankle look rather clumsy.
30 many cases of illness are traceable to
thin-soled shoes that physicians are uni
versally prescribing, not huge, clumsy
ones, but those having soles that will
afford sufficient protection to the foot
In years gone by no wonder so many
lovely young girls died from consumption,
for it was then the fashion to wear soIes
not thicker than a sheet of paper, and
delicate women would go straight from
their furnace heated, velvet carpeted
homes out into the bitter cold and stand
chatting, perhaps, on the snowy sidewalk,
with results that are not to be wondered
at. The matrons and maldens of this
period show far more common-sense, for
which they are to be commended.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-02-21

dress) gowns on the part OF certain New
York leaders OF fashion; but all Paris
mondaines, on the contrary, noted for
their elegance have adopted them with
the utmost chic. Perhaps the proverbial
six months or year must pass over our
heads before we awaken to the beauty of
them.'