The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1897-04-25

The boIero in all it's forms is the par
ticular fad of fashion at present. Here
1t is shown in combination with new
sleeve, which is wrinked below the pun
and is known as the mosquetalre. A
dress of black canvas cloth, with lining
of green and violet taffetas, had jacket
fronts of both, the canvas being cut an
inch smaller to allow the SILK jacket 10
show Both were simply hemmed by
hand, in the neatest manner posslble.
The waist front was of black mousse
line de sole. The belt and collar were
of the silk.
Tailor-made gowns in cloths and
other wooden fabrics are to be more
generally employed than ever before.
This is true not only of New York, but
of all the great cities famous for style
and elegance. London and Paris, Ber-
lin and Vienna, Brussels and st. Pc
tersburg, send the same tidings across
the sea in regard to the apparel sane
toned by fashion for the coming sea-
son.
The grays and browns, the states and
umbers, the blues and blacks of last
season will be in evidence this year, but
at the same time for every one shade
worn then there will be six this spring.
There are new cheviots in the market,
but why they should be called cheviots
battles the comprehension. They are
unlike the old ones in texture, in finish,
in color in smoothness and in effect
They are light, strong, handsome and
durable Some are in solid colors, 9th
ers are in two tones, and still others
are multi toned. They also differ in
the weaving, some being comparative
ly smooth, others basket woven and
still others ribbed. When it comes to
color, the variety is simply endless.
There are tweeds and any number of
mixtures, metons covert cloths, coach
mans cloth, billiard cloth, Venetian
and vicuna cloths. OF the colors hello
trope still holds it's own as queen, but
its reign is getting weak, as is evil
denced by the large number of shades
which are worn under the general head
of that favorite hue. 1t reaches from
japanese purple, and runs through wis
terra lilac, lavendar plum, pale plum.
1aVendar gray lilac brown brown hell
otrope and almost takes in magenta.
This long array of shades enables every
NbiHpIeAlOn 10 De suited, Out lew people
can wear the brilliant upper tones, COM
bined red and blue. which we call pur-
pie and royal purple. while almost any
one can wear brown heliotrope or very
pale lilac Between these limits are
over two hundred different shades, all
of which possess more or less beauty
The general style of tailor gowns is
e-tx, 1snf+ rr-I.s
plies to everything, from the collar
down to the edge of the skirt The col
lars are very simple. the more elaborate
and fantastic creations of the winter
season being left behind A few fash
ionable women keep up the De Medici.
Tudor. Valois, turreted and Standish
collars, but the majority prefer the
simpler styles which heretofore have be-
1onged exclusively to the sterner sex.
The skirts are small, seldom being
larger than four yards around.
They fit closely around the hips, flare
gracefully, neither smooth nor with a
wave. from hip to edge both in front
and on the sides. and what little full
ness they have is either gathered or
pleated at the back
Many costumes go to the limit and
.
the pleat and the gather are unknown.
Regular goring. seven. eight or ten
cores. is still common, but equally com
mon are three-piece skirts. which are
particularly nice when made of faced
cloth or of cheviot or tweed. These
three-piece skirts generally have one
slight gore between two pieces, and are
cut so as to hang with a slight wave
both in front and on tha side
The exquisitely fine silk-warp Hem
rietta cloths and double-warp cash
1neres displayed among new spring
dress goods present a wide range of
1are and beautiful shades not attain
able n any other fabrics of approx
mate price.
The very fine underwear for the
seasons before US is fashioned very
richly and eXtravagantly. Show win
dows and showrooms are just now filed
with the latest importation of costly
French underwear. Taffeta silks. plain.
changeable and lowered. also lustrous
Liberty satins, moires and victorias.
plain or brocaded Marie Antoinette silks
and satin figured failles are among
the rich and elegant materials used in
both white and colors that are soft and
delicate in some instances, in others
bold and extremely conspicuous Dam
~, beautiful underwear is certainly
most desirable, and all refined and fas-
sidious women prefer fine lingerie to
costly clothing if there must be a
choice between the two, but the exces-
sive luxury and elaborateness displayed
upon it are now undeniably absurd and
border on vulgarity. as all excess in
dress does. This is especially notice
able among the latest importations of
French skirts, which are fiounced and
1iligreed, tucked, corded, f1uted, accor-
dion-pleated, ruched and lace-laden to
& ridiculous degree
Liberty silks and satins have found
such marked favor with modistes that
they are now very extensively imported
for accessories and for fancy waists
and elegant tea gowns. These soft,