Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-02
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
How the Tea Gown May Be Made Most At.
tractive and Becoming.
Neglige Costumes That Are Designed
for Home Wcar-Dafrty Matfnees
The Latest Models.

Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.
In these days of waists of cotton in sum-
mer and silk in winter for everyday wear
! much is said and written about the import
| ance of a trim appearance at the break
fast table tIfmnesS evidently being cor
| sidered out of the question without a high
collar and a snug belt. The use of the tea
gown is also carefully explained. until that
beautiful garment is rclegated to or.e's
boudoir, or whatever pretentious or UMPIRE
tenticus name is applied to ones private
apartment. The tea gown has been abused
| no doubt, and a neat shirt waist at break
fast table is a refreshing sight, but there
are other garments more alluring
There has been something of a revival of
tea gowns among the fall openings. This
may be due in part TO the possibility of
having tight sleeve once more. For it
! must be confessed that very bouffant
sleeves and very bouffant gown make al
| most too much of a good thing. So every
| tea gown shown has a sleeve fitted to the
arm to the shoulder, where ii is capped by
lace, SILK or whatever scheme of design has
been carried out on the rest of the frock.
Very rich materials and very delicate
colors are the rule, as OF old. One rather
| novel model had a yoke and sleeves of yell
| low satin, covered with heavy lace of a
large pattern. The rest of the gown was
OF striped, pink, yellow and white silk
| The stripes were narrow. The seIvedgc of
| the SILK was used at the top and the silk
was set on to the yoke with wide piece
| standing out, narrow in the middle of the
| front ard back, and growing wider toward
the shoulder. The effect was that of a
| Stin quilting Of silk, standing up on the
yoke. The silk was quite full back and
| 'front.' finished with a short train and only
slightly confined by yellow satin ribbons
coming from under the arms and knotting
| at the waist. The effect of the ouilline
would be better if there ril,
| all, and the gown hung full &c tie hem
Another Model.
! pale blue cashmere had a bias dart,
which made it fit closely to the figure I'M
| der the arms. but it hung full from the
neck to the floor, both back and front. The
Vatican in the back, as is the case with
most OF them this year. was shirred into
the neck and quite concealed the back of
| the gown, being as wide as the shoulders
| of the wearer. This is not quite as grace
full as the double box plat, but one must
have a change.
The shirrings so poular during the sum-
mer still continue in favor. One lovely gown
| OF pale gray cashmere was quite full back
ana front, and shirred from the neck to the
end of the arm socket. This confined 1T
enough in the back, but in front it was
held in place by ribbons of gray satin.
"A great number of gowns are shown
and body OF another. A very handsome
one had yoke and sleeves of lavender satin.
tucked in inch tucks. The tucks began at
the top or the collar and continued to the
ehd OF the yoke, and proper fitting in such
a case is not an easy matter. The sleeves
IKE all the tucked sleeves popular at pres
ent, lifted the arm rather snugly The rest
OF the gown was made of light weight
wool crepon, of the same shade of lavender
To avoid the old Mother Hubbard effect of
shirring on the yoke with a neat little
heading the crepon was cut pointed back
ana 'front.', caught up over the shoulders Of
the satin, and a fall of lace took away the
severity Of the sleeves and added to the
trimming of the yoke. In the back the full
ness was gathered into a double box pIaa.
"hlue crepon tea gown was without a
Doth back ard front. The fullness was
held In place by three rows of stirring and
full ruching of lace filled in the very
modest opening at the back. This was not
cohnned at the waist line.
Decidedly Smart.
pale pink of bengaline silk was cut "
shaped back and front. The back had a
shallow Vatican plait. Coming from this
plat and combining the fullness in front
was wide gtrdle of heavy lace. A mar
rover width Of the same lace finished the
neck, and the whole gown was quite as
journey. '
Matfnees are very dainty and have one
great point in their favor. II one has an
engagement soon after the morning meal
and wishes to be nearly ready and Vet NOT
don the heavy cloth waist at once thew are
dainty and pretty. and quickly doffed I'm
favor Of the more formal bodice
Inc new models are generally tight-ft-
ting with a full 'front.' in imitation OF the
pouch effect. Many of them are of tat
feta or soft thin silk. with insertions of
Vaienciennes or other lace. The full fronts
are 1abots OF the goods. seemingly length
ened fronts. which are allowed 10 drop i'm
careless but graceful folds from the neck
TO the waist line. When purchased they
are extremely expensive, on account of the
novelty OF the models. but good dress
MAKER or woman with clever fingers
could easily fashion one, as they are sim
ply the old-fashioned dressing sacane pat
tern, tight hitting, with insertions of lace
and q generous amount of lace and silk al
lowed for the pouch or jabot. The sleeves
which are alternate rows of silk and lace
are capped with a fall Of lace, and there is
row OF lace around the short basque be-
low the waist line
Breakfast Garment.
An old model. but one which is always
becoming. is a matinee quite &c or 2S inches
long. tight fitting in the back, and the full
ness In the front confined at the waist by
ribbon coming from under the arms.
Round the neck there is a fall OF lace,
which is continued down the front This
ever popular breakfast garment can be had
In all the pale dainty shades. in either
cashmere or silk.
The gay plaids- now SO popular are some
times made up into house gowns, or tea
gowns. but the question then comes to the
mind of the practical woman, why make
them up to-wear In the house alone when
they are quite suitable for out-of door
wear? For matinees and tea gowns both
pale grays, blues, pinks and lavender and
white are the most suitable. not emitting
one can purchase On every hand.
Get suitable colors. remember they are
only to be worn In private houses. and
not then IL one p visiting in formal
manner. and the tea gown will no longer
be sneered altar ridiculed even by the
tailor-made girl. but WIN be source OF