The San Francisco call., 1897-07-25

Everything is crepe de chine-that is,
everything in which that material can be
utilized. The newest patterns are re.
sponsible for this and the one which L
think is the best is a pattern which moth
ing else can describe moro clearly than
the word ''lightning." There are two or
three coIors of this pattern. One Is on a
white surface with waved lines OF two
shades of green and black. Another
charming combination of color is In two
shades of red, with black lines on white
ground On a white ground, again, there
are two or three mauves alternating with
a black design.
A pattern crepe de chine is very sue
cessfully used, for the sake of little va
riety, in place of foulard. It makes
charming garden party frock, for instance,
trimmed with vest Of soft white lisse
or lace insertions of either white or black.
In all the years that / have known any
thing about fashions l have never seen
crepe de chine approach anything like its
present popularity. But what is moro, it
seems to be anything but heeting
fashion.
There is q gauze with new title to be
seen. 1t is called ''Gaze Dia abolique." 1t
has q coarse canvas ground with open
work pattern in black and white upon it.
This same pattern is charming in either
blue, red or green. notice that the
gauzes mostly have a canvas foundation
with broken design running over their
surface. A pretty blue with green de-
sign is effective; black and white exer-
cises its perennial charm, and there are
several plaid gauzes of the gayest colors,
with the plaid used as a background and
a design of silk intruding its influence
over this in two or three colors.
The very handsomest gown of crepe de
chine which l have seen thus far this
season was of cream color over pale blush
PINK silk. The bodice had rows of real
Valenciennes insertion let in on each side
OF the front, with putting OF silk muslin
between. The sleeves were slightly fuIled
on the seam, and at the top was q small
bouffant with an epsulette of pink silk,
almost hidden with a Louis XVI knot
made of the Valenciennes insertion. On
each side of the skirt at the top was a
similar but much larger knot, made of
wider insertion, the ends falling toward
the back of the skirt, the crepe of the
to show the pale pink through.
There are some lovely new brocades,
perhaps the best being those with a sug-
gestion of a lace pattern outlined with
dark satin on pale ground. There is one
OF these with pale red and white shaded
ground, pattern in dark red and white
upon it; another in mauve and pearl
color being equally attractive. Then there
is a range of colors showing roses in pale
tints with broad stems. Very pleasing
brocades show carnations all OF one color
on a ground to match. This pattern is at
its happiest on silver gray, and on silver
gray, too. there is 8 capital design in small
lilies.
A design of Guelder roses is delightful
again on pale green ground, with a pat
tern in white. This would be charming
in a tea gown, with lace collar and long
lace ends, q soft crepe de chine vest and
sleeves in white, the high Medici collar
being also of lace. A conventional pattern
in white on ground OF satin looks par
ticularly well in the turquoise tone, and
very lovely striped brocade shows chints-
like design, alternating with black and
white stripes.
Let me say q word about foulard, for
this material continues popular, blue and
white being particularly successful in con-
ventional patterns.
A very pretty foulard that 1 especially
noticed was of pale cafe au lait with
white pattern all over it. The bodice has
a white plastron in front of silk muslin
going across in fine pleats, and white
revers edged with guipure insertion of
yellowish tint, outlined with the mar
rowest brown velvet The sleeves were
plain with a row of the guipure and
velvet going down the whole length. The
skirt had a wide flounce headed with the
same guipure and velvet, ana was worn
over deep rose-colored silk underskirt.
The hat was exquisite, of soft cream
MANILA straw with black ostrich feathers,
some standing up little, some gracefully
shading the side. On the left the straw
was slightly turned up with cluster of
anemones shaded from palest pink to deep
red ana having black centers.
Wonderfully pretty is new material.
having somewhat the appearance of grass
lawn, but of fine texture with a silken
pattern running all over it. called "Linon
Broche." 1t is very wide, forty inches,
and with foundation of natural holland
tint, pattern of bright green or a pattern
of white is equally successful. Another
variety of the same kind has stripes of
shaded silk of two-inch intervals. This is