The times., 1897-09-12
PARIS FASHIONS
FOR EARLY AUTUMN.
The Blouse Jacket and It's Balaveuse
Novelties in Cloth.


The Blouse jacket and Its Balayeuse
Novelties in Cloth.
Paris, Ang. 20.-The ideas that have
westhered the summer and can be trans
lated into heavy materials for faIl, il few
in number, show steady drift toward an
extreme style. The women look thinner
and thinner, and the latest bulletin an
nounces that it is the fashion to look tail
as well. The bulletin recommends the
adoption Cf sixteenth century Italian stills.
This is where we are.
But If the initiated see tie situation
Clearly il i s more than the world OF dress
commissioners does that at this flag end OF
the hot season is eIamoring at the doors of
the rue de la PaiX, asking for winter
models. They ask for novelties and they get
blouse and gored skirt; they want
something To startle their clients and they
aregiven short jacket and wide flounce.
Clearly il ism t much, and the dress agents
are saying, Was it worth while IT, come
from New York and from st. Petersburg
for things no newer than these?
But look closely. These things are modi
fled in special WAYS. This blouse is
blouse jacket and it viii be one of
4; the mainstays of fashion when winter
begins. 1t has q little basque; IL droops
slightly over the belt; it is open in front
over a plastron, il has revers that may
be cut in thousand different ways, and
1t is principally by the revers that va
riety will be made. Another form is belted
round the back and sides and hangs FUR
and straight from a yoke in front. These
blouse jackets are made in velvet, and
they are made in fur, as, say, in
MORE astrakan, with revers and collar
facing of violet velvet. Jeweled belts
win be Worn with them, and jeweled
button or two may be placed at dis
cretion.
the skirt has something peculiar about
/ IL: there is all oversbirt. Let not the
reader go aStray over this news, for it
does not mean that overskirts are all
1 the fashion, it means only that as skirts
are loose from the lining there is no reason
why they may not be cut up shorter III
! places and leave the lining skirt, faced with
something else. to show for a contrast. 1t
/ is a simple way TO ornament the skirt
/ without adding anything on. i have seen
/ one al Worth S that was cut up rregul&rly
| across the front and hung as long as the
underskirt round the back. 1t was a com
| binarion Of cloth above and figured silk
underneath The bodice was blouse Of
the silk with a fancifully cut sleeveless
! bolero OF the cloth.
The oyerskirt Idea is at this stage to-
! day; where it may be tomorrow the god
| dess of TIE mode only knows. There seems
more chance for its dey elopmeDt than when
| 1t was oestinately tried, two or thre years
/ ago. al least with the narrower skirts it
is no longer an imPOssibility.
Come now to tile jacket proper and the
] tl0unce. The tailors have settled ON n
| little fitted coat with 6ve-inch basque.
the backs with English seams and an open
| and rounded front. It's principal novelty is
a plated ruffle of silk set under he edge
| all round the back and up under the
| fronts, the edge OF the ruffle Coming TO
| the edge of the Jacket, like n SIX irt
| balavouse- A new skirt has the upper part
1 fitted close and the low er part, some two
thirds of the whole, bias or slightly IN
/ gUdets, sewed to 1t in d IIain flat seam
| Ike gusSet. This is hardly a n0unce,
! but il produces a slight flare on the lower
! part 4 model is navy blue serge made
with this jacket and skirt trimmed FROM
| top to bottom with black silk bra III in lines
running found, curving slightly upwards
| toward the back and in this following the
direction Of the skirt join. The jacket has
the lining ard under-p -plaitings Of dark old
rose.
Loose jackets are not abandoned, though
the p-odigality with which they have been
exploited ty the wholesale manufacturers
for the large shops has turned the research
OF the private houses in other directions. 1t
is the law for all fashion. This Jacket is
used almost exclusively by the best tailors
for bicycle costumes. For this wear it is
made rather long, about the length OF a
niaL = round coat, this being found TO be the
most Becoming length on the wheel The
chic finish to this jacket for the bicycle or
elsewhere, Is n linen collar and a gentle.
mans four-in-hand tie.
in the matter of materials, the taste for
plaits has brought out some silk and wool
stIffs woven in pIaits that are suited
to afternoon visiting dress. The dress