davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
THE GREAT DRESS REFORMER.
How WOman's Garments Have Coz
formed to the Love of the Wheel.

How WOman's Garments Have Con-
formed to the Love of the Wheel.
Helen Watterson Moody in Scribner's.
1t is hardly to be supposed that the dress
reforming spirit is a product of modern
times, since we find the necessity of 1t en-
joined upon women as far back as Bible
times; but for present purposes 1t is suffi-
Client to go back to forty years ago. when
the women of this country began to look
timidly and tentatively (much as the little
fish In the fable looked at the fly on the
hook toward the mere possibility of such
changes in the garments they wore as
should conform them, in some degree at
least, to the demands of beauty or health
or convenience or adequate bodily protec-
ton. A few women looking at the mat
ter quite simply and directly, and conceiv-
ing, therefore, that dress reform was
matter solely of individual and private
concern. shut themselves into the privacy
of their homes, shipped and sheared and
stitched industriously, coming forth at last
to shock the gaze of a waiting world with
a curious hybrid garment, neither male
nor female, lacking the stern practicability
OF the masculine garb lacking also all the
sweet appeal Of the flowing feminine line,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
SLEEPING WITH BABY.
The Many Exciting Exigencies He
hnE tnconsciously Bring About.
From Tit-Biu


From Tit-BiH
The free-from-care and ease-taking old
bachelor. who in his momentary lapse OF
wisdom contemplates matrimony. should 1t
the same time reflect on the remote but
contingent possibility of his having 20
some time sleep with a baby should he
narry. Years of experience of this martyr-
dem make me feel 1t to be my duty TO set
forth the misery arising from a contiu.
gency of this kind
The baby, if he happen to be a lus,y
little fellow Of eight or ten months. will
decline to stay covered, and will also de-
cline to allow you to keep yourself COW
eied. he indicates his wishes in this direc-
tlon by keeping his little pink heels co.
your back
lie Will also insist on lying .'crosswise."
ehd"lSe, cat-a-corncred." bias" or I'm
any other position. but changes each after
rev minutes sleep. His infantile needs
VIII begin to manifest themselves al about
O'Clock in the morning. at which wit-hiny
nour you will go laundering round in the
dark for drink Of water.
he VIII howl steadily and checrfullv from
until 5 o'clock, and will kick Won ci.rj,us
~ between the shoulder blades with every
howl 1t will not be Of any use for Won
to pat him tenderly and coo out, There
there" He is there and knows - ara
intends that you shall know it.
1t Is OF no use to say, coaXirgly "N.hat
does para's baby want?"
Papa's baby doesn't want anything but
10 howl, and he is gratifying that amiabIe
desire to the utmost
ii Is of no use 10 AID to your list of
cnornities by strong language And IL
your Wife has been calmly passive through
ii all, she VIII develop an amazing degree
CT spirit If you dare to lay the weight of
your finger in anger on that poor dear
little, innocent darling sweetness"
He will squirm all night as though he
were first cousin to an angel worm He
Will journey around all over the bed, both
under and on the top of the coverings.
You are no sooner asleep than one of
his moist little heels is planted firmly on
your nose, or in your mouth. and, later
on, he will sit astride your neck, and grow
green and purple with rage when gently
made to sill elsewhere.
Should he fall out of bed and yell loud
enough to be heard all over your aarfsh
your wife Will say she firmly believes that
you pushed him out, and that you are not
fat TO be a father ANYHOW. An animated
dialogue of a purely personal and private
nature will follow this remark.
But when the registering little chap
hnally Struggles up" to you, and goes to
sleep with one of his vclvety little cheeks
close to your own, and one of his warm,
soft arms around you neck, you find your
heart growing very soft and tender to-
wards him, and you would single-handed
wage war against a host or Law down
your life for love of him.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
Earned His Annual Treat.

From the Detroit Free Press
"As long as my employer lives" said the
big workman, I'm sure of just as fine a
dinner for Thanksgiving as the market at
for s."
Invited to his house?'
mo, of course not. He has too much
sense to set me down to a table with a lot
of the upper crust. I'd feel like crawling
under the board, and could no more eat
than If I was gagged and handcuffed He
sends the stuff to the house, and we never
get 1t all closed out much before Christ
mas"
Does he treat all his men that way?"
Couldn't afford it. He has hundreds of
them, you know. But me and him had
what ne calls an escapade a good many
years ago You know, 1 was a coachman
Tor old Grinder. He had daughter, the
prettiest woman in the state and with
spirit enough to lead an army My present
boss fell in love with her and she with him.
Grinder fairly kicked the roof off the
house, and told me to do the same with the
Young boss if 1 ever caught him on the
premises. But, to begin with. I'd do any
, 1nlng on earth Tor my young mistress.
told me mighty plain that If l took sides
with old Grinder against his daughter I'd
nave to go away from home to do my
courtln II was a warm Thanksgiving day
when the young folks planned to elope
The mistress wanted me to drive them but
l told her, in meanin' way like. that l
better drive the old gentleman when he
took up the chase. She saw the point, and
told me not to hurt him serious
sure enough, when Grinder heard the
girl had slipped away after dinner, he was
cyclone. Away We went in light buggy
with a fast horse. On the creek-bottom
road I managed an upset. and dragged him
through SluSh ard mud for uuarter Of q
mile. He was mad enough to murder some
one. but he was too proud to own he was
beaten, so he forgave the young folks and
set the boss up in business"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
Royal Martyr TO Etiquette,
From tho Inndna

In Spain the etiquette to be observed in
the royal palaces was carried to such
length as 10 make martyrs of their kings
There is an historic instance. Philip III
was gravely seated by the fire; the fire.
maker of the court had kindled great a
quantity OF wood that the monarch was
nearly suffccated with heat and his gram
deur would not suffer him to rise from the
chair; the domestics could not presume to
enter the apartment, because it was agains.
the equitt,e At leueth the Marq.Is de
Totat appeared, and the king ordered him
to damp the fires; but he excused himself
alleging that he was forbidden by The ETH
quette TO perform such a function, for
which the Due d'Usseda ought TO be called
upon, as IL was his business. The duke was
gone out: the fire burned fiercer, and the
king endured it rather than derogate from
his dignity. But his blood was heated TO
such degree that he was seriously Ill the
next day. A violent fever succeeded which
carried him off in the twenty-fourth year of
his age.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
Elegance Posing in the Guise Of Quiet
Simplicity.
GRAY Is STILL IN HIGH FAVOR
Stylish BIouses That Arein Contrast
to the Skirts.
PLA1DS AND PLAID EFFECTS

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star
FRANkFORT-ON-M December IA.
Nine la Mode is pleased just now to dis
play the richest elegance under the g,ise of
quiet simplicity, as our model bears proof
1t was designed for an American lady of
great wealth and social position, and we
hope it will therefore be of particular in
terest to our fair American readers whose
taste in dress is unquestionable.
The gown still adheres to the favoritism
for gray, which has justly outlived several
seasons and still shows no signs of decIIn-
ing
The skirt is composed of an overskirt of
silver-gray cloth, lined with mauve taffeta
and opening in front over a petticoat of
White cloth edged at the hem with chin
chilla- The decoration of the overskirt con-
sists of a border of white Maline insertion.
from under which the gray cloth is cut
away. as to disclose the mauve silk un-
derneath. The insertions are stitched on
with narrow white silk soutache braid. The
cloth blocks formed by the lace decorations
are embroidered with gray silk, chenille
and strass.
A Modified Blouse.
The bodice, though blouse shaped does
not show the baggy arrangement of the
popular Russian blouse. The loose full
front of gray cloth is attached to a yoke
and is very elaborate with insertions and
embroidery running vertically, and giving
the appearance of added length to the
waist The tasty jabot consists of wide
Maline lace matching the insertion and
plated mauve mousseline de sole.
The very high plain standing collar of
gray cloth has band of insertion and a
neck full of Maline lace at the back The
sleeves of white cloth follow the fashion
able fancy for sleeves of different color yet
harmonizing with the gown. Maline inser-
ton is sewn on the sleeves In diagonal
lines, surrounding the arm and crossing
each other so as to form carreaux of white
cloth. The insertion like that on the skirt
shows the mauve lining underneath, and is
likewise attached with white soutache
braid.
A narrow fla ring cuff filled out with a
founce of Maline lace finishes the wrist
and a very original wide collar of white
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
THE UNDERWEAR PROBLEM.
The English Fad of TabOOinS Thicker
Clothes for Winter.
From the Chicago Int.r-Ocean.

From the Chicago Inter-Ocea
The British maid or matron, and in less
degree the British boy or man, is agitating
his or her mind in solution of what the
society journals calls the great underwear
problem. That pestferous person, the fad
dist. is crying aloud in the coteries and is
warning men, women and children of the
danger of changing their clothing with the
changing seasons. He will not much as
add a tunic of camers hair to his raiment
when winter comes; the light garb of sum-
mer snail be sufficient unto him when the
range of the mercury is below freezing
point.
10. the poor Indian, rapturously eX-
claims the faddist. When he is asked how
he can go naked through ice and snow, he
answers. The white man does not clothe
lis face: 1 am all face" But he she
who should undertake to walk through
London or Chicago. clad on" as Tenny-
son has 1t of Lady GUdiva, I'm purity and
nothing else, would need to have face
that is all cheek But leaving the ethics,
which does not trouble the faddst, and 60
Ing straight to the physics upon which he
rests his case, the truth is that the Indian
who is all vIgor and "all face" at twenty
two, is apt to be all dead at forty-five.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
4 Girl station Keeper.


Kentucky Is the home of many business
women, but L think no one of them is pref
tier or more energetic than the iovable
girl who is station agent at Rowland, in
the bluegrass" said a Stanford friend. Il
refer to Miss Susie Lasley, who is perhaps
the youngest station agent and ticket seller
in the country. Two years ago, when her
brother, who had been the agent at Row.
land, died. Miss SUSIE was given the ap-
pointment, and though less than twenty,
she has earned a deserved reputation for
capacity and faithfuiness. Her home is a
mile from her post, but she is always at the
little ticket window TO sell tickets for every
train and is on the platform, lantern in
hand, to sign for all the baggage and eX-
press, 1t matters not how cold and dis
agreeable the night in winter. She rides a
wheel, but is fin de steele In no other re-
spect, there being too much of the matter
of fact about her for any fooiishness. She
is a brunette, with nut-brogn hair. hazel
eyes. and is attractive as she Is cour-
ageous and independent. Everybody at
Rowland knows and loves the sweet-tem-
pered station agent. who will earn e. better
place in the companys employ before many
months have elapsed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
CIeveIand'S
Baking Powder

OF 81. Adams has in his possession a
coat trimmed with royal Stuart tartan
wien Charles III wore at his wedding In
Iooi the acts OF parliament OF Scotland had
mentioned tartan as A quite familiar conn
modify, which sold at 80 shillinss an ell
ana upon al accounts the Highland clans
were wearing their several patterns well
before 1000 Broadly speaking. tartans may
be divided, as the Duke of Argyll sistin.
CUISINES them, into red and green The
campbell, of green and blue is perhaps
the best known instance of the latter
~hile the red Is to be seen eNempliiied
IN the favorite royal Stuart and in the
Kit OF the Cameron Highlanders Lord
Archibald Campbell somewhere quotes the
materials of the old dyes Blackberry was
used Tor making scarlet. hyacinth for red
aioer toi olack, willow for flesh color and
Logan has recorded his approval of a mix-
ture OF bullock blood and lime
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

which. as the acuteitMr. Hepys observed.
nobody could take them for women" It
is not strange that the reform received a
blow then and there from which it stag
gered along unsteadily. upheld only by the
occasional enthusiasm of a business-like
prophet, or a rainy-day club or a woman's
congress (where it crept in with other
more popular and less necessary reforms)
until about three years ago. Then without
any seeming movement, without declaring
itself at all. suddenly, like light at the ere
alive fiat, it was. And it was, not through
any tempest of organization or any whirl
small wheels of the BICYCLE bringing forth
the one thing that was necessary and had
been lacking all the time-reason enough
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
A Great Bird,
From Tit-Bits

The champion parrot, named Jacob,
lately exhibited by Mr.. Grant Ridley in a
house in the Holloway road, London, brings
in 1900 every year. Mr.. Ridley has been Of
fered f1,5OO for him, but he is worth more
than that This wonderful bird has per-
feet command over 1900 words, and never
puts sentence together incorrectly: he
can also talk three languages and ten dia-
lects. Whatever language or dialect you
address him in. he will reply to in the
same tongue. Eighty pounds was paid by
the Archduchess Stephanie, widow of the
Austrian Crown Prince. for a parrot which
could recite the Paternoster in six different
iansuages. When the archduchcss got the
Monder1ui bird homcrit could not utter a
arrested for fraud. Il turned out that he
was a ventriloqust, and he had taught the
bird to open his mouth and appear to be
talking while his ventriIoluism lasted. The
sultan of Turkey paid $50 for gray par
words. - b'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
A Christmas Letter.
From the Christmas Puck.

Dearest Phyllis: Pray remember when
you're making up the list of your presents
for December (unless l am to be missedD
that I've slippers, picture brackets, smok-
ing sets of various types, half dozen
smoking jackets, tkirtyseven 1neerschaum
pipes, twenty patent kid glove MEMBERS -
collar boxes by the score Of embroidered
silk suspenders forty-eleven pairs or more
That each year since 1 was twenty I've re-
ceived paper weight, have pcnwipers, ink
stand plenty, paper. ,cutters-twenty EIGHT
That I've Browning and Longfellow by the
hundreds-every kind; Shakespeare-black
and blue and yellow Milton till I'm nearly
blind!
So there's just one present only that I'm
wanting in this year of my Dictatorship so
lonely-that's yourself, my Phyllis dear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
The Value Of Happiness.

From Scribner's. Il
I believe-it is Mr.. Stevenson who says
that the duty of being happy is the most
moderated duty in the world. And in spite
CT all we may wish or assert to the con-
trary, there is induhitable evidence that
happiness. up to date, at least, has basis
in physical well beipg. I. suppose one of
the reasons why the reformers OF the earth
have not been notably delightful persons
to live with is because they were either too
busy or too tired to be happy. And yet a
happy man. and especially happy woman,
is a radiating focus of reform, for such a
person possesses that gentle and diffused
responsiveness which leads us into willing
good endeavor, simply because it displays
to MS the good taste of enjoying fine be-
havior.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

with rows of white silk braid graduating
in width covers the yoke of the blouse and
falls over the shoulders. THIS collar is Dor
dered with chinchilla like the devant of the
petticOat.
Belt and Sash.
Another novel feature of this gown is the
belt and sash of mauve meusseline. The
belt is folded and closes at the side under
a frill of the same material. The very
full sash ends with f1ounce of mousseline
and is trimmed with three rows of inser-
ton. Three short strips of insertion also
decorate the back where the sash ends are
attached.
PlaidS and plaid effects are in great evil
dence everywhere. and will continue to be
favored. since some fOrerunners in spring
models show these popular designs which
are accepted gladly by the tall woman and
reluctantly by the short one.
Also every woman who aspires to being
fashionably clad in the coming season must
b. yoked. There are round yokeS and
square yokes and oblong yokes, and all are
becoming.
One lovely dress of gray popin for out
door wear in early spring is exquisite in its
simple elegance. The skirt is plain, except
for band of beaver at the hem. The
blouse of poplin closes in the shoulder and
under-arm seams and its fullness is gath
eIcd into belt of folded gray satin rib
ben. closing under graceful rosette There
is the inevitable yoke, deep square in
shape, of white silk done into clusters of
narrow tucks and bordcred with beaver.
beautiful embroidery of steel beads, Sc
uuins and strass covers the whole front of
the bodice and runs along the back The
high standing collar of white tucked silk
is also bordered with beaver, as are the
wrists of the long, tight sleeves.
Some Charming Contrasts.
While Independent blouses and bodces
are discarded for elegant wear by ultra
fashionables, blouses are still worn IN con-
t"astng or lighter colors than the skir:
but they must correspond with it, as for
instance, in demi-toilet which consists
of 4 skirt of royal blue tafeta, cut tight
over the hips and finishing below the knees
III deep fOunce of the same silk which
is attached in an undulatng line low in
front and higher in the back with a mar
Tow full ruche of royal blue mousseiine de
sole. The blouse is of dahlia-red taffeta.
covered with royal blue mousseline de sole,
paced on very full, particularly over the
tight sleeve, which it wells loosely, forming
dropping puff at the shoulder
The round yoke and standing collar are
o. white lace embroidered with gold thread
and gold spangles, and an odd garniture is
composed of jet and gold embroidered mar
row bands, which are put on to form large
carreaux all over the bodice and which
also encircle the yoke
Ihls model suggests many accountable
combinations-as black skirt with a red
or blue blouse, yelled with black nous.
seine or net and the present mode of fash
Ion recommends itself to the practical wo-
man no: only for its simplicity and he
comingneSS. but for the possibility of MAX
Ing over old gowns equal to new ones
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

,OR THE CHRIST
| mas sieighing, for
the "pung" parties
that make SO much of
the sport of holiday
week wherever there
are lively girls: for
the drives and the
out of door merry
making that Cele-
brate the frosty days
of the new year, the
all-fur dress is every
Woman'S favori.e if
Cf,n rln nn,,,tNe- To-,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

was OF the turned-up variety and was trim
med with black velvet and violets.
Skating, In the neiehborhood of New
York. is a most uncertain and provoking
sport; nevertheless, The dressmakers are
originating ice dresses that are at once
novel and attractive. One worn at Tuxedo
was OF deep crimson cloth edged with sable
fur. The sleeves and yoke were infinitely
tucked and neck and wrists were protected
by fur bands. smart toQue in evil
dence, with masses of wings shading from
white to black and completely overshadow-
ing the black velvet foundation.
OF Green Velvet.
A second skating DRESS which Is des-
tined, the gods of ice and snow permitting
to make its debut at New Year house
party on Long Island, is of dark green vel
vet adorned with bands of white cloth and
rows of dark green chenille. The bodice
has white cloth yoke studded with tur-
quoises and emeralds. Ec crown this gown
is a small toque with two very broad green
and white quilts sweeping round the left
side: the arrangement sounds simple, and
is so, but the effect is new and daring.
Though skaters claim the field, blcyclists
rave not abandoned it and frocks for win
ter wheeling are designed every week. The
newest are considerably longer than those
worn last summer and the skirts, as a
rule, are not divided but are made with
saddle plaits, simply Heavy checked
twceds are the best liked materials, cut
with the Norfolk jacket and worn over
blouses of bright fannels, deliberately
braided.
A woman OF fashion who wheels every
day when the city streets are not icy
makes herself warm and smart in a trim
Persian lamb blouse jacket, with a double
collar and bread revcrs of sable. Another
Vcman wheels in costly saD.c cape
and has a large sable muff fastened to her
handle bars. ELLEN OSBORN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
Prina Facie,

From the Cincinnati Enquirer.
1.-THE new boarder," said the Sweetest
Girl, must know good deal about wo-
men. He has been married four times"
A man who was fool enough for that"
said the Savage Bachelor. never knew
anything about women. That's plain"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

= 81 wouldn't marry the best man who
ever lived" she exclaimed.
Poor fellow murmured he; nobody
seems to want that best man. What en-
couragerlent is there, anyway, for a man
to be better than the common herd
ton Transcript.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25
OF CLOTH and FUR
The Mid-Winter Novelty is in the
Cut Of the Skirt.
AND WHEELING

Copyright, 1897, by Bachelor Syndicate)
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, December "a, 1897.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

cloth lined with mauve taffeta and trimmed
With rows of white silk braid graduating
in width covers the yoke of the blouse and
falls over the shoulders. THIS collar is Dor
dered with chinchilla like the devant of the
pettiCnat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

In turning a strap, belt, glove finger OF
narrow bag that has had its seams run
upon the wrong side, bit of Yankee in
gcnuity calls for whalebone, and catch
ing it in one end of the fabric pushes it
along through the narrow aperture until
the whole is reversed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

An excellent suggestion for the baby who
breads its bath and screams when put into
the bathtub is to cover the bath with a
blanket, put the baby on it, and slowly
lower it into the water
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-12-25

The coy "coatee" is used almost as
much as the blouse with street dresses.
Among, the spectators at skating exhibit
ton at Tuxedo few days ago was hand
some woman, who wore one of chinchilla,
combined with a skirt of gray cloth, on
which were set appliques of darker velve.
curving upward to the back. The toquo