The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-25
Fashions Of NeU York.
Mohair Sicilienne Used in Fashionable Costumes.

soutache. The entire waist was cut
in one piece like a bag and brought |
around the body and shaped to the
figure by means Of plaits. These left
a. little faring basque effect at the bot
tom, and it was plated in to fit around
the yoke. There were folds laid in on
the sleeves. and at the top and bot
tom were self ruff1es as a finish. A
little white lace finished off the neck.
A hat to match was Of rough braided
black straw with much plated black
lace, a blackbird with outstretched
wings and half a buShel Of double vel
vet petunias.
A black straw English walking hat
had four natural sized American
Beauty roses with black foliage as its
garniture. It needed nothing else, and
think it would have puzzled the mil
liner to find room for anything. This
hat was provided for the completion
of another representative summer
walking and visiting gown. This was
Of stone gray cashmere double, a fine
and beautiful fabric. The waist was
made without a dart and fitted like a
glove. 1t fastened at the back. There
was a sharp point in front, and the low
er edge was piped with narrow cord.
There were sprung caps with a border
Of ivory colored lace. There was q
sprung bertha Of the cashmere with
lace frill. On the skirt were three
fiounces of the ivory colored lace, the
two upper ones being wide and the
bottom one but half the width of the
others. All these are model gowns,
either imported or closely copied from
others that were
Among the few new dress materials
offered this past week one finds cork
screw suiting in all the new soft neu-
trail tints. Particularly pretty it is in a
haZy blue. There is a satin mordante,
|, sxEa Il
satin. This is in wide widths, and is
delicate and bright. but rough on the
surface. Carded cloth is another
scratched or roughened cloth, and it is
fine and pliable. 1t makes UP beauti-
fully and is particularly rich in the
deep blue, petunia and plum shades. A
new all-wOol poplin is a novelty, for
this material was always made of linen
and wool or linen ard silk, the cheap
varieties having been cotton instead
Of tie linen. Aside from these We find
nettinGs of many varieties and de-
greeS of finenSSs farmer satin reps
and chevrOns in mohair wool. These
are very snowy, but good value Some
Of the farmer satins are 50 fine and
are produced in such a great variety
OF design and color that it is almost
impossible to believe them other than
real satin. One new stuff is called AGO.
liam. 1t resembles bengaline and also
china crepe.
Tamise. taminy and hundreds Of
fancies in thin goods are shown until
it would be heartbreaking task TO
choose one from so many Some Of
them are lacelike, and some. those
made of the twisted cord remind one
OF the wire screens put in windows to
give the flies and mosquitoes a cause
for liot0us hilarity. This is called
tamise. The taminy is not so plain
being striped, in lace design. checked
striped or brocaded, or, indeed
wrought into more different devices
than | can mention, all pretty and all
strong. l must not omit to mention
one mere property, and that is, there
are double taminys. where the upper
part is black and the lower one colOred.
These are entirely different and would
te entirely separate but for occasional
threads thrown through each other,
which makes Of it one piece. This is
very odd but effective. Some grenadine
is treated in the same way with good
effect
| tkirk that the fine pinhead and
shepherds Cheeks will be the favorites
for summer wear in light silks in spite
of the sudden dash after printed
taffetas, midas and foulards. Those
Will be made up for rather more cere-
mCniOus occasions, but the checked
silks are so useful and so refined that
they fill requirements when the others
would fall short
Plaids are often seen, and are fire.
quently employed to make travelling
rantles. The wool poplins would be
nice for such purpose, as the cOloring
is generally pleasing and refined. Such
a garment is made in regular ulster
style, with sleeves snug at the wrist
to keep out dust, and with a pretty
semi-military cape, stitched several
times around. The ulster is single
breasted and buttons all the way down
the front.
In dress materials for midsummer
there is little that we have not seen
before, these being new only in the de-
sign. There are many patterns of silk
muslin, with embroidery upon it, some
times in silvery white and sometimes
in pretty COlorS Tul,e, black and
white, is dotted wi. n ali sorts Of dots
square, diamond shaped or round, and
sometimes with all Of these in one de-
sign. They are to be worn over col
ored silks. Some of the Brussels nets
win be plated as they were ten or
twelve years Ggo. And they may be
trimmed with narrow satin or velvet
ribbon around the bottom The tuIles
are better adapted for evening wear.
The soft b2rege is now presented with
dainty pattern of Hamburg en-
broirery, generally in the same shade
as the barege, though sometimes in
Two OF more SHdCSS OF the same color,
or other mixed colors. 1t is pretty
every way.
Many of the white lawns and fine
hatistes have delicate embroidery,
judiciously picked out with bullion
threads. These are most often in flower
designs in the natural colors Silk
muslin IS also embroidered in light
and delicate tracery. with more or less
gold thread. Narrow and wide f1ounces
are wrought in this way TO be sewed
to any of the summer gowns as a
dainty finish. ROuchings Of silk, silk
null, Grape, and, in fact, everything
and also accordion plaitings all pre-
pared for immediate use, are for sale.
These are lovely Chiffon, with mar
row white or yellow Valenciennes edg-
ing, are among the Drettiest OF the
made up trimmings. These are to add
to pretty summer gowns. though they
are already seen on the spring ones
Ruffiings and plaitings are among the
most popular of trimmings for spring
gowns. They may be of taffeta, hem
med and knife plated, and may match +!
or contrast with the material of the
gown. Mate Leroy.