New-York tribune., 1897-01-17
PARIS GOWNS OF 1897.
FUR. EMBROIDERY AND vELvETs ON THE
GAY BOULEvARDS
NEW DESIGNS SHOW EVEN MORE GLITTER TIA
THOSE OF THE AUTUMN-NoVELriEs
OF PARTISAN MILLINERY

,,ha "your do ran" Is a most festive occasion In
France where Christmas is celebrated rather as a
religious fe:e and day for the chiidren' vi, Wv
Years Eve there we're host OF dinners iono"."
by dancing masque balls and private thea'r'ca'''
and the first day Of 1897 was a long reception oas'
Before the noondav breakfast 'riends oes" W
arrive generally intimate friends or people OF "A
rank which iustifies them IN calling on o'he's ~
unconventional hours. For the a'ternoo" io
calls are exchanged. New Years hsh' Is '
bratcd with family dinners. and orteh '''sc o'e"
;nr -eccpt,on All these festivities mean new cos
,umes A rrenchwoman IS indeed badly OF without
. rresh gown in which to celebrate the new year.
The frocks that come in with the year snow sew
eral cxaeEerations OF fashion bu no radical depart
ure from the earlier winter models Ho~eNe'' as
In n month or designers Will be puss VIII" '"e
rev snr,re models and these are apt 10 pe
co,na h ..,ba last word OF the preceding season
tho gowns of the moment possess more thar pass
ing interest - L.. law
There is style Of gown on which may .'o "e
,shed more laboratories of trimming anu '.'"
10 small details than Il dressy, h'sh-"e'h'" "
gown This may have the long flowing Ines SUB
.,,,.o ~ tho tea yoXn the elabcrateness or a re-
co,.,o, toilet or the additions OF lace ana preh'
cclors that intimate a costume Tor ii "o"o NM
or the theatre There have b'ch 60" 49,
beautiful gowns OF the richest silks ana io'' "
paui trimming furnished this season tn'' i'"|o ~
oi, high about the throat and with the most eau
- eurs r,b.sa gowns take the place OF the
~. aaco,,e,a which is now regarded as provincial
.xc.n, when worn by young girls ho' io' '''''''
-. and even then. high-necked gown eiaoo-
,a,olv or dairtily trimmed is considered oe''e''
COMPROMISES NOT IN FAVOR
,,u, Cor a formal evening AFFAIR should De
dacollete which means that IN ever!
sh,,ld he a perfectly appointed evening u'ess 49,
other occasions a high-necked gown ~ oe''ei INA"
c,mpromise For this reason. blouses TO De worn
-, Convenient skirt are never cut with anything
o,ce,t the most elaborate neck arrangements 'o'
they are only to be worn on informal occasions.
Among the hgh-necked gowns for young girls IS
. charming one OF white net emoroidereu Ill eo'"
and green silk that forms tiny squares an oNei,'"
o.o-,,l About the hem Of the skirt Is nouhce vi
-, loo. headed by a ruchng of the plain net
-.,,o, tho centre of which Is drawn an emDroiueiy
Of mock emeralds and pearls. The oodice Is soi'
bouse held by a high crushed pei' OF
velvet An odd little figaro OF the same 'eNe' 10
cut very short under the arms ana SLOPES away
over the shoulders 10 make high collar Ine jacket
q odge5 bv frills of white lace that make immense
,ho, behind the ears The front of the throat Is el'
exnosed and the sleeves are long with several rows
=, ,aca rufes at the shoulders and deep fris over
the hands. Ia,
Gowns OF almost every material are arranged WIN
skrts OF violet pleating, and these skirts n''ihs
s,uciv oyer the hips and about the hem, sng-
ees, No more fitness than does the skirt cut In the
ordinary way There are many trimmed ana even
drapea skirts in Paris now. but even these denhe
The figure.
A pretty frock OF mauve watered SILK has Inc en-
tire shr, laid in sunburs; pleatings. The bodice Is
covered by blouse OF peated mauve momsseiine DE
sole with high belt OF dull green velvet me achE.
is edged with lace and cut into points Una, xaye
and confines frill of lace that descends IN rufes,
wrinkled The slight fulness at the top is trimmed
with the lace embroidery that appears on tne
Jacket. and the hands are hall covered oy many iS
VISITING TOILETS
New Years visiting toilets show any amount OF
velvet in fancy and plain coors. Whole costumes
of this material have come into favor again. one
costume OF black velvet is made with Russian
blouse held by jet belt. with gold clasp; ana one
of navy blue velvet has high belt and long. tight
sleeves embroidered with black. and is worn with
n double breasted sleeveless figaro of ermine. with
one lapel turning over ana FACED win suipure
lace mounted black satin.
luxurious costume is of brown velvet siasheu IN
curves about the hem of the skirt, with each curve
outlined with sable The bodice is IA fitted basque
of sable turning away to show a draped waistcoat
of truquoise-blue velvet. The sleeves are OF ue
brown velvet with two rows of fur pipngs trim-
ming but not confning the fulnessat the top
The plaid and fancy velVets make charlhlHs
Jackets. worn with MORE silk or cloth skirts some
fashion of the Norfolk Jacket. only with elaborate
A skirt OF hunisman's green broadcloth, with
smooth. satn-ke surface has ABOUT the mem oi
line of gold embroidery. and half way up the skirt skirt
placed two similar rows Inc basque oouice
has revers and deep fiat collar OF the CLOTH win
second collar and reyers over It Of fur Inc IN
the high rolling collar is of sable.
smart walking suit of dark red serge has on the
skirt trimming of black braid a,ransva IN fash ,To
ION making deep. circular points IN mont ana rsine
ne s" in Da' the middle Of the back The bodice has
blouse front trimmed by crossway liies OF ~idr @
the top Of the sleeves is stole of black caracule;
The sleeves are long and tight Mith cluster t OF
the serge. with line OF fur about the edge ana
the stole fits about the bottom OF the choker IN 'he
back and the sides like a fat-round collar
EMBROIDERY POPULAR
Paquin is using a wealth Of embroidery on elabo-
rate toilets and flower patterns done in silks and
rich with gold silver thread are used on SILK
cloth and even net gowns. Embroidered net and
lace. the embroidery being done in mock jewels or
irdescent pallettes. is extensively worn
Midwinter hats are exceedingly gay. and convey
more than a suggestion OF spring. IL seems trie
10 speak OF the violeis that bloom with such
regularity in the millinery parlors. but the crop.
although extensive. is not as large now as IL WAS
last season and y touch Of novelty Is continually
added by the new combinations effected by the use
OF the purple blush flower with some new color
one milliner has successfully used the violet with
"A new and peculiar shade Of rose that rather sug-
gcsts shrimp pink. though 1t mas less yellow hed
Nclve. gerarirms are liked now black hats. com
hned with LOT OF short. glossy wings
Holly will OF course. 20 ont with the present
month. and it is really at rs pest % on iur ana
toque Of shirred tulle. trimmed with sable head
and a cluster of tails. and with curving cluster
Of scarlet brown feathers waving over the top All
feathers are used but ostrich plumes least OF all
4 curling white aigrctte not entirely stripped of
tho plumage forms a graceful substitute for the
stiff aigrette Woven chenille and ribbon, or mar
row baby satin.a and velvet ribbon form the shapes
OF MANY smart walking hats. and at distance
appear ike straw. few straw hats
have appeared, not on the street. OF course. but
fresh from the designers hands. A smart model
of fancy dull green straw turns up closely on one
SIDE rolls gracefully on the other. and Is rather
scoopcd out I'm front. suggesting "A wide -brfmmed
euuestrenne hat. There Is ruche OF green vel
vet rather deeper than the straw, about the low
crown and a scarf OF lace that ties behind al
lowing the ends TO fall down a trihe on the hair.
On one side Is a large bird OF paradise
THE "ENGLTSH TEA ROOM."
cha IN resiauranf. known = the "Eng-