The times., 1897-08-29
FRENCH NOVELTIES.

LA1&tGA% 49, A<-~ a ~~-N-
New York. Aug 2T.-The French manu-
facturers fearful of American enterprise.
are growing chary of their models, aid
with very good reason, too Last year
theytlispla yed their wares with great eclat'
under Ihe impression, OF course, that the
Yankees had come over TO buy. But The
American looked at his watch and concluded
that he bad just time TO catch boat
which would bring him home soon enough
10 make some French novelties OF ms
own just as good as The Partisan s. ana
as there wasn't any copyright, or patent.
or any sorl OF string ON the creations
heratl..r got the best of the Frenchman.
Ilss summer he went over again, hoping
70 d. the same thing, but by this time
the willy Gaul had learned thing or two,
and when the American asked TO see his
STYLES, h. pulled his waxed mustache and
said. .-Je ne sails rien de nouveau." and
tile American had 10 come back and study
thcln ur for himself.
Now, nov ever, tine secrets are beginning
TO leak ont, because II Is too late for the
manufacturers 10 start new models and
get them on the market
tits known that skirts VIII be narrow at
theUop ana rlaring a. the bottom, andthere
are eEea dark hints OF the tie-hac& within
which women viii walk Chinese for lack OF
space. and Compensate between these
fashionable sentences 10 the stocks and the
pillory ~ gymnasium exercises for linn
bering purposes.
1t IS suggested, also, that there VIII be
A. s..l-r. lara1f laQF
there viii i,e considerable freedom OF choice
in tine matter One model of this KIND has
already been displa yed in a large New York
store lt starts out TO be a blouse one OF
the kind thar is made with frogs TO fasten
il up IN fI0nt, bat which is alw avs allowed
70 stand open from neck &c waist THIS
one decided to De Jacket when it reached
tire waist. aud flared out into basques from
beaeath a belt OF two inch braid. 1t hadthe
SAM trick u gapin = open in front andevea
al tie waist il was allowed To hang as it
would with ats braid fasteaings unused.
TIC waist line IS not 10 be ignored,
even If l,asgues do become popular, and.
My the sanle token, belts are stiIl in
(. vor A pigskin beIt for a dollar and a
quartc- is really the correct thing to
y rcar-iliat is, il you cannot afford TO
v ear one Of the hand-carved Mexican
leather belts, which are the extreme Cf
elegance
have said before, and I say it again,
with an earnestness born OF conviction,
that gray is TO be the September color,
ard the girls who are too sallow 10
wear Il would best look TO their complex
ions II they wish 10 be IA ashinaable
TEe.e was d typical September costume
ai the roof garden the other night 10
lie sure, il was August yet, but it hap
pened 10 be d cool evening, and since the
new September gown was finished, why
not wear it7
The material was a silyer-gray, so ar
tisticaiiy combined with watermelon PM
silk aud white mousseIine that it is well
worth considering by any young woman
who l. planning ler new September gown
Il is Sufficiently light in color and texture
10 be worn new, and yet VIII serve very
nicely for a street dress all through ths
autumn months You viii find an eXac
reproduction OF the dress in the accom-
panying Illus ration, and with this and Z
b-ief description, it ought 10 be easy 10
any woman 10 copy it very accurately.
The kirt was plain except for three rows
OF heavy cUrding over each hip. This
effect was produced by inserting piece,
OF feather bone about twelve inches long
and al eighth Of an inch thick, and gath
ering the material around il. The wais
had yOkeOf deep pink taffeta, veiled witt
white lE3ussrlale, reaching almost TO th.
bust line. and from there the pouche,
front was a succession of fine tucks o
the gray material alternating with band
of lace Insertion. AZ each side OF th'
pouched front, reaching from the bottom
OF the yUize TO the waist. was d ruffle o.
pleated whItr niousseline Tacks an,
lace peeped out from beneath the ruffle
on the bodice between the edge OF tn
pouch front and the sleeve The bacl
was m3de OF alternating tucks and lac
In the same way, but il was not quite 81
full and die not have the ruffles. Tn
klery@s were gathered in both upper On
under seams in the most approved mou:
Quetaire fashion, and just under th
suian puff at the shoulder were thre
rows OF shiuing suggestive of those o
the hips except that. instead OF beinl
corded, they were merely gathered wit
small headings. over the shoulders wer
epaulettes or knife pleated gray taffet.
and at lie waist was ruffle Of hit
Inousseline The pink ribbon around I'll
neck was not veiled with white like tn
yoke. but had fluff Of pleated whit
moU,.elme standing up over the bow q
the b;,cS-
Around the waist was a gray taffet
ribbon folded quite narrow, but the DO
at the back had wide loops and long end
that grew wider toward the end in ths
uar-slape which is the favorite for sas
ends these days. All around the edges
The sash was a narrow ruffle OF taffet'
gathered SO full that it looked as if
were pleated.
To Crown this beautiful costume was
magnificent, big, black, poke" Of fiji
straw, trimmed with clusters OF black Q
tfich and osprey plumes. Underneath Il
bIim and close To the hair was a sms
black bow held in place by an exquisit
pearl huckle.
A. whole, it was one of the mo
tasterGl and altogether stunning costum
which have yet made their appearance.
A