The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-09-12

garments and the substitution of others
made of warmer and heavier material.
Some indications point 10 a preference
for jackets during the coming season. this
change in fashions whims being nat
ural sequence to the coming in OF smaller
sleeves. The past popu arity OF capes has
been due to a great degree to their con-
Yenlence, as they do not crush the corsage
trimmings. and, no matter how extreme
the sleeves worn, are easily assumed and
laid aside; and even if seeved and fitted
wraps do take precedence, there are many
who will not welcome the change.
Collettes will certainly be worn for
early autumn, and several variations are
shown. Some OF the newest forms are
full as to the lower portion and are fitted
to the shoulders by darts. The triple
cape will still be worn and the collars are
10 be high at the back and rolled over at
the front. Velvet is the universal facing
and is chosen OF the same color as the
cloth Used. Fancy collettes are braided
and made elaborate in many ways, but the
three narrow capes are severely plain,
49, raw edges.
HNedici collars are seen on all garments,
fAd are made high. low, square and
round; in fact, in every imaginable shape
10 SUIT the fancy.
The elegance of the cloaking materials
10 be worn this winter does not preclude
. richness of ornamentatIon that seems TO
conservative minds ike over-trimming.
hese elaborate wraps are, however, ex-
cluSively for very dres-y occasions, such
is receptions and calls, and are really
economical, as, with a dainty bonnet or
stylish hat and a comparatively simple
skirt one is elegantly cos lumed.
An effort is being made to revive black
sat n cloaks, and the use OF this fabric Will
IN all probability be a least locally popu-
lar, since many are partial 10 its use for
win er garments-it forms such an effect
i've background for a display of airy chit
fon, rich lace and sparkling jet. The color
mostly chosen for lining these cloaks is
delicate pearl-gray satin.
Fer independent coats elium length
Is preferred extending a tritie more than
midway between the waist and the knee.
These are also much trimmed, fur snd
astrachan being frequently used for the
purpose.
Capes are designed on lines suggestive
OF the old-time vIsite shape, the material
being so arranged as to form graceful
sleeves, and the cape portion being cut
saort IN the back and long in front.
a black silk wrap is always useful to
both young and old, and even quite youn
girls now wear capes Of this material with
l0red gowns. A lovely garment of this
Kind is trimmed with velvet and Jet and
Gu. in TWO parts onlT, with seam down
he center back.
a rlastron of white silk covered with
d k guipure adorns bot back and front,
~ braces and epaulettes OF black velvet,
o-,tH1ed with jet, complete this charm
iAS ana simple creation. The model can
be Kept all black, or copied III colors. In
cloth, with velvet trimming, 1t would be
e>pe cially effective if the center were
braided over, or covered With coarse
euipure, but ii BISCUIT or fawn-colored
clotn is used it is unnecessary to fill the
center up unless an extra smart effect is
- desired.
Another way TO develop this model l.
TO have the center back, braces and
epaulettes of fancy broche material or
velvet, and he full sides of cloth CT silk.
Made slightly longer, in pale co.ored cloth,
with epauettes OF silk or velvet edged
with Jet o. tiny bands of fur, it is most
effective, and sat in with coIored broche
DESIGNS makes UP well with a colored
lining to match.
Another cane, for more mature years, is
made of velvet with bands OF sable fur
fringe Of cut Jet beads dependin ing from the
lower edge of each hand and the neck
finish being a hig ruffle lined with satin.
Most of these short capes are worn inter
lined with a strip of horsehair canvas, to
make them sit out a the edge.
1t is hard to tell what other styles NAV
make their appearance later on, but these
described are being made at the present
time and can be relied upon as being cor
rect.
The prominent feature of autumn MILL
merry will be a profusion of rich trim
ming, with q lavish use of velvet, together
with many feathers and birds
Llrge mats and toques share almost
equally in popular favor, and some few
shapes suggest the poke idea. The m arked
unbecomingness of the Salvation Army
headgear, however, goes far to prove that
the severe outline of the poke does not
suit the average face. even though bonnets
! this shape have been recently worn in
&-iEldlu ny many VI AACl M SStJ . ivy al
ard fashionable subjects.
Even when made of the finest straw
lined with the daintiest tints, and further
beautfied with frills and founces of pretty
lace, with softly clustering ostrich feathers
and masses of pale-hued roses, the
revived poke bonnet must of necessity
prove .rying to airy but very young and
charming face. 1t should therefore COM
mend itself only to those who are still so
youthful that they can afford to add few
years to their apparent ages without
giving the impression that they are en-
tering on the hopeless period of middle
life
Bonnets are small, in pretty shapes, of
such variety as to suit almost any face,
aud have very wide ribbon strings, which
is a becoming style for those who are a
trife too advanced to wear gay hats or
tooues.
The capote, or toque, always has its
place, as there are women who cannot
wear hats and look we'll in close-ftting
beadgear Some of these pretty things
are made of tinsel cloth, draped in high
folds, and have for contrasting trimming