The San Francisco call., 1897-10-24

Gently was on the Giinsborough order, OF
gray beaver, the brim draped with velvet
to match, while three handsome ostrich
tips rose over knot of the velvet, which
was also shirred around the crown. A
rhinestone buckle under the fare, where
pink and gray velvet were prettily twisted
together, and a round greensboro orna-
mentt,at 1.-The base OF the feathers CON-
pleted this specimen of millinery achieve
ment in choice of colors and treatment
For morning wear. whether ono goes to
business pursuits or shopping, felt beavers
are most suita BILE. They come in shapes
that will adapt themselves to facial needs,
and may be prettily trimmed with cocks
feathers at the left, banded with gros-
grain ribbon, or loops OF ribbon with
iaunty quill or two. The quilts 1 fancy
very much for travelling. All the brims
OF walking hats are rolling and are bound
with gros-graia ribbon or a galloon that
matches it.
Feathers do not by any means have to
match. They are to be much used in sew
eral tones or two, and also in contrasting
colors
Toques are somewhat like the shapes
worn last winter, but the beaver felt has
entirely superseded the dull black felts
We wore year ago, and they have in con-
sequence of their glossy surface much
dressier and more expensive appearance
Twists and folds of velvet, knotted with
steel or other buckles or ornaments,
around the low crown, meet at the left
side and closely 10 the font IN upright
,r m innings of birds aigrettes, quills, velvet
loops or ribbons, as the choice may be.
loP aiNr ipfn "a
trimmings. Head dresses-they can
scarcely be dignifed by the name of
bonnets-are glittering and effective.
Wings, heavily spangied, r.se aggres-
s.vely from them, and rosettes and orna-
ments Of an ornate kind further EN- beIlish
these small but important accessories to
the evening portion of the up-to.date
WON ans wardrobe. Toques made of vel
vet are very chic. One that 1 saw the
other day was of hunters green velvet,
shaded green cocks feathers rising from
the crown, where rosettes of velvet and
shaded pink roses formed the trimming,
together with a handsome rhinestone
ornament of odd pattern. Steel butter
flies, their wings quivering on wires until
they fairly sparkle, are also pretty
novelty.
And this reminds me that I have not
told you about the most stunning hat
which has crossed my vision within the
week. 1t graced the charming head and
pretty face of debutante who is par
tIcuiarly stylish dresser-Miss Marie Mes
ser. / saw her on Montgomery street as
she left the Occidental with Miss Polhe-
mus, where they had been guests al Miss
Gertrude Forman's luncheon. The hat was
a black siik-velvet. on the brim OF which
curIed a magnificent. pure white ostrich
plume. Miss Messers gown was Russian
bloused as to bodice and the entire
toilette, though somber, was an excellent
setting for the brunette olive of her CON-
plexion, and her petite figure. Her COM
panion, Miss Polhemus, IS a blonde OF
strikingly fair appearance.
MISS Hoffman, who affects nat y tai or
gowns, is one of society's distinguished
looking bellies. Her gowns are noticeable
for their faultless fit on her rather tail,
slender figure. Miss Alice Hoffman, her
sister. who made her de but last season, is
stylish dresser, as are also NJ iss Forman,
Miss Bessie Ames, Miss Marie Wells and