Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-09
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Fashions First Choice is the Tailor
Made Gown.
No Longer Severely Plain, for the
Russian Blouse is Braided and
Lace-Trimmed.

The phrase ''tailor-made'' used to bring
to the minds eye heavy, plain cloth gown,
constructed at great expense, and only
suitable for travelling or shopping. AS this
entailed another gown for afternoon weaI
and calling or receptions, and as it is tho
practice of many charming women to wear
one gown for both purposes through
whole season, tailor-made gowns were con-
lined to women who did not have to study
economy as we'll as fashion. We have
changed all this, however, and the tailor
made gown of this year of our Lord is the
most economical, least expensive and most
satisfying gown one can purchase.
Head of the list, of course, is the Rus
sian blouse, or pouch jacket. The first
gowns of this sort put on exhibition showed
a jacket dropping heavily, back and front,
over the belt. This was the extreme. Since
then a more moderate idea has come in,
due to the gradual narrowing of sleeves.
skirt and everything in the line of gowns.
If you are still debating what sort of
blouse effect to have, decide upon one only
hanging over slightly in front, still more
slightly both back and front. The last idea
is best OF all. for the belt looks better with
the slight looseness above it. A fitted back
and belt are not particularly artistic.
Black braid is the accepted trimming,
though large buttons are sometimes used,
and a narrow black silk fringe is both new
and popular. Braid, of course, includes
many varieties, frogs and scrolls of every
description.
on gown just finished. The cloth was
brown. The blouse was only slightly over
hanging all around and fastened on the
left side. The skirt of the blouse was
rather fuller than usual. Three rows of
wide, flat braid went around the blouse,
terminating near the fastening on the left
side in large, round. scroll designs. On the
narrow skirt these three rows of braid were
repeated. with the scrolls har
on the front side Seams. thus leaving the
front breadth of the skirt untrimmed.
A Disguised Princess.
The princess gown promised US for some
time has not yet appeared in it's entirety,
but very charming one which concealed
itself behind an overhanging blouse was on
exhibition this week. The cloth was dark
gray, and tght-fitting in the back. There
was slight pouched front, and from under
the plain belt the skirt flowed smoothly,
severely plain. although the jacket was
trimmed with black braid
One Of the chief advantages of the Rus
sian blouse on a tailor-made gown is it's
possibilities. With the old severe models
one Was obliged to have a plain sleeve
plain collar, and if there was any trim
ming at all it must be of the most severe
braid The blouse has no traditions to sus-
tain. In this country at least, and tailor
made gowns can be seen trimmed with lace
even. provided they have the blouse effect.
The blouse admits of any sort of a collar,
plain, haring or trimmed, and sleeves may
be tucked. gathered or braided.
The Russian blouse is distinctly a street
jacket, u fact of which many excellent
tailors seem to be ignorant, and it is neces-
sary to insist that it shall not be fitted
tightly enough to destroy the look of ease
and comfort. well as smartness, which it
is intended to convey, and that it shall be
loose enough to wear over a silk waist.
l1lx a.
gowns either fitted to the figure, or hang
ing loose like short box coat-more often
the former gown of dark blue, trimmed
with black braid, with a fitted Elton Jacket
opening over dark red wastcoat which
is literally nodded to the figure, is especial
ly suited to youthful face.
Box Coat or Blazer.
Box coats with plain, narrow skirts are
worn to some extent. and are especially
desirable in covert cloth. This makes 6
most serviceable but not an elaborate
gown. Box coats part of tailor-made
costume are too desirable to go out, but
they are not as popular as they were last
year.
The blazer, or a modified reproduction Of
| that graceful coat has superseded thcm
| but 1t remains to be seen whether it will
do for the coolest months of winter. A
jacket which can be buttoned across the
chest always looks more comfortabl on a
wintry day even though we know the tailor
! made Jackets are usually reinforced with
| chamois undervest. Still they look warmer
| And that means much. The blazer of
| this fall fits snugly, has lapels faced with
| some contrasting color, and opens over a
| waistcoat of broadcloth. or silk waist
| The former is far the smarter, and must
| fit like glove.
In many cloth gowns the seams Of the
| skirt are covered with braid, either running
| to the waist line, or ending few inches
| below it i'll a scroll or frog. The sleeves of
| all heavy cloth gowns. barring again those
| finished with pouched blouse, are a modi-
| fed leg-of-mutton, standing up smartly on
| the shoulder, ger erous above the elbow
and even at the wrist not fitting too tight
| ly for comfort. No coat sleeve should be
too tight. Collars are either high and
straight, or turned over and low. Skirts are
really much narrower. and it is rumored
that very clever women are again turning
last years gowns to account as they did
| when narrow bell skirts were the rage
| They are constructing two gowns out of
one old one. MABEL BOYD.