New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-04-12

Paris April 2. 1897.
The woman with small dress allowance COM
plains that the present season holds out fewer
possibilities 10 her than ever before. Smaller
sleeves and skirts may do away with yard or
two Of necessary stuff. but they add many yards
of expensive trimmings
LAS we are divide the season between the
eide and the country said a young married wom-
an the other day. II determined to be very modest
in my raiment during the spring and expend my
time and money a lot OF the fluffy light summer
gowns that are 10 be fashionable. These
organdies and figured lawns 10 be so
cheap. and counted on half dozen old evening
gowns for foundations. But my dressmaker says
she will not make thin gown this year over stiff
silk transparency, and that l must provide soft
silks for all Innings
She quite right Whether II IS because the
couturieres tired rehanging old skirts under
"gossamery" stuffs. whether 1t is true that the
new of skirt with its burden Of trimming de-
mands softer lining. the facts are that no stiff
silks or even suggestion of silk at all. 10 be
discovered beneath the present models Of dainty
summer frocks
WHY USE SILK AT ALL?
The question then arises. Why need we use silk
at all? AND I am not that under the present
conditions of fashions obliged TO use IT.
The lines Of the skirts of last summer were de-
cidedly different from those of the present models.
Then were the folds of the silk godets under
the most daphanous of fabrics and sweet sim
plicity held out by wall of stiff taffeta The
idea now is TO have the skirt straight and simple
in lines. if complex in adornment, and the much
trimmed. thin fabric makes the gown and not the
deliberately lining
There is thing to be said always In favor OF
silk foundations: they keep their shape in a way
that the average cleaner must submit to. and. If
we do away with them put ourselves into the
hands of the laundress. whose powers Of destruc-
tion great. AT any rate. want neither stiff
petticoats nor heavy silk foundations over which
build present summer frocks. and little
thought in this direction may lead TO an economi-
cal substitute
AT a prominent place recently. figured
muslin frock made in the most advanced style.
There were two skirts the UNDETERMINED and be-
rufied overskrt lying over full underskirt OF the
same stuff the underskirt being ornamented by
narrow inside and outside rufie about the hem
This made the skirt Of the gown. but worn under
it violating petticoat Of soft white silk
as long the frock. All women love the idea OF
the silk skirt. but there is no reason this year.
while there certainly none last season, why
half dozen carefully cut batiste petticoats with
q pretty ruf1e two about the hem should not
do for the foundation of all summer frocks SO. II
the woman with that modest dress ahowance WIN
think bit she may get "A couple OF country
gowns out Of the price of one Of last season
THE CLEVER HOME DREssMAKER.
This is the time OF year when we have the most
leisure and seriously, do not believe the clever
home dressmaker Of more value than she
spring street gowns, for example. nor the evening
gown with its sweeping train. but the summer
wardrobe may. with her help be finished before
In regard 10 form or ways of trimming there will
ribbon. ruies, tucks and shirrins make these sum
eT ne Methods of Of the and
any novel and happy touch is as convincing as , a
make pretty gowns. and as cut and even mt are
subordinated this year, and novel effects IN garn.
ture are the important things. the home diessmakcr
would seem 10 have a large scope lor taste ana
cleverness.
EMBROIDERED MUsLlNs.
For home evenings or for a small dance young
sir,s are wearing summerlIke frocks OF deliberately
embroidered musns In which entre-deux Is miro
6uced in unique patterns. The square decolietagc
is often effected by the use of a lace yoke and arge
sashes much liked these esh Srebn oos
Of style and complexion as a complement. a ,a,or
made now in the walking sui! ana bicycie habit
but she IL very young eiriy In her evening hr AZ
sashcs soetimes Of tTlle punched about with
reckless disregard OF waistiine are Inc pie'"'''S
touches IN these costumes.
Something was written recently in this column
Ererph ,bea f amdencc but recent repetition
generale" was 30 very brilliant from the s,andara
Of a costume display that ] felt FOR the inome'i,
much inclined modify past statemeni is rars
really the beginning OF me season , ~ are
and these dress rehearsals for winch no Iches. az
sold. dress occasions in more thah one sens ems
Sut here 4e no. i9gpes aye toilets Of black skirts
and even the most elaborate bodlces ne os INC
ina curtain may fall as late O'clock there AR, are
perforce long and interesting between acts. dur-
INK which the audience the foyer appear IKE ,is
guests OF large and successful Icc"pon, o, bph
occasion the gowns with few exceptions WcLc msn
necked. but built Of light silks ana most e"ooi"''
trimmed
TOILET OF WHITE SATIN.
A noticeable toilet rather long and cins'ng IN
effect WAS OF white satin with an embroidery OF
yellow lace entre-deux covering The bodice ana max
ing an apron effect on the skirt. double rune OF
black ana yellow tullc edged the apron and dppeu
again 10 the hem Of the skirt 10 trim IN. bottom
OF ne back Drcadths The same double rifie effect
made the choker and trimmed the Top OF the
sleeves. and the waistband was or the doupe i"i'e'
tied In knot with long ends behind
A gown OF white cloth cut princesse fashion was