The herald., 1897-08-01
GAUZE FICHUS ARE IN FAVOR
MOUsSELINE DE SOLE GIRDLES
VERY POPULAR
The Victorian. Bonnet and an Up-to-
Date Waterproof Are Among
the Novel Notions

wants any proof that this is year of
economy they should see the new Jacket
that was shown to me the other day.
1t Is so constructed that without any
change in. the actual making of the
jacket it can be arranged in seven diff
ferent styles-one for every day of the
week. Think of it, those Of you who
have to wear the same jacket whole
season. This is just exactly like having
seven Jackets in one.
This useful garment is Of medium
length, semi-fitting at the back with
pleat caught down by strap and but
tons at the waist, and loose in front. 1t
can be worn as a plain, double breasted
coat, and in this shape forms a capital
wrap. Three transforma tions are effect
ed by the regulations of the revers to
different heights by means of straps and
buttons, or they can be thrown open and
worn loose. By another arrangement the
revers can be folded and strapped to the
top, 90 as to form a trimming to the
front of the coat Again, they can be
left open and the straps fastened across
the front so as to reveal the vest or
blouse worn beneath.
The puffed sleeves are finished with
deep cuffs, which, by the same device
Of straps and buttons can be worn open
or closed, turned back or straight. The
collar is similarly adjustable and may
be made high, turned down or rolled
over, forming ah admirable finish in
either style. In plain cloth this novel
jacket makes an ideal travelling wrap.
The revers can be either trimmed or
untrimmed, and when finished with
handsome passementerie render the gar
ment smart enough for visiting and
afternoon wear. Lastly, when made in
silk or velvet and effectively lined and
trimmed, it makes an admirable opera
or theater jacket.
Taken altogether it seems to me the
most useful novelty Of the season, and
in fact for many seasons past.
Gauze fichus are high in favor at pres
ent, and really they are becoming to al
most every one and can be adapted in
style and material to almost any occa-
sion. Just at present they are worn both
on morning and evening gowns, but they
require the exact touch which only a
clever and artistic dressmaker can give
to render them perfect success One
of these I saw was double row of
Brandenburgs carried out in jet, with an
openwork of Jet embroidery between
united by narrow straps. The effect was
excellent.
Thin, filmy textures are certainly at
the height of their popularity this sum-
mer. They appear in all sorts of guises
and are put to all conceivable uses.
The latest is to have girdles of mousse
line do sole, with long sashlike ends fall
ing almost to the hem Of the skirt A
very pretty one, all in white and elabo-
rately trimmed with real Valenciennes.
was worn with pale blue gown of
mousseline de sole, finished with white
satin collar This material is also used
for the fichus I spoke of, one in particu-
lar, in the Marie Antoinette style, also
trimmed with Valenciennes, being es-
pecially beautiful, and, I might add,
delightfully."- expensive.
There seems to be no doubt that the
Victorian bonnet is to be the head COW
ering of the near future, and really,
when not exaggerated in style and
trimming, 1t looks quaint and pretty.
One very pretty white leghorn which 1
saw quite won me over to the idea. The
f1aring front was covered with thickly
shirred white chiffon, made to give the
effect Of small ruching just at the
brim, with three small pink roses on
each side of the bandeau, resting on the
hair. The crown was trimmed with two
folded straps of very wide white rib
bon, coming across the front and back
of the crown and finishing at the right
side with another rosette of three roses.
to match those worn inside the hrim.
On the left side was a smart bow of
the wide ribbon, the loops doubled over
somewhat and we'll wired. On the same
side were two very full white ostrich
plumes, one standing up quite high in
front and the other falling over the
back of the brim. The string ngs-for what
would be bonnet be without strings
were of the same white ribbon, and were
intended to be tied under the chin
little to one side.
The day Of the ugly, formless "gossa-
mer" is over and the waterproof gar
ments of the present season are delight
to the eye as we'll as protection from
the elements. Even the simplest of
these up-to-date rainy wraps is both
stylish and becoming, while the more
elaborate ones are really beautiful One
OF the simpler ones looks like grey tweed
with little collar of green velvet. The
cape has turned back revers with pretty
buttons, and when necessary the revers
Soii NC outloIaeU across, Wnlcn makes the
garment double breasted
Perhaps the most striking example of
the advantage in waterproofs is sack
backed coat with double breasted
front fastened with pearl buttons, and
having velvet bound, collar and cuffs.
1t looks like nothing SO much as silky
alpaca, and possesses the double ad-
vantage of being very light ir4 weight
and very smart in appearance. This one
seemed to me the most desirable for gen.
eral use, but 1 saw one which had been
made to order that was exceedirelv
handsome. 1t was long cloak in dark
blue, which inside was all white, and.
just in front, was sumptuously lined
with white satin. The cape, With its
smart revers and collar, was piped with
white and there were white pearl but
.ons to complete the effect.
The tea jacket has evidently come to
stay, and seems to be more popular than
ever, which is perhaps explained by the
:act that it is comfortable as we'll as
dressy. The newest material utilized
for these fashionable jackets Is silky
printed gauze. This Is even more gos-
samer-like than chiffon, the pattern