The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1897-04-11


Oue of the greatest blessings a woman
can have in this life, to my way of think
ING is a good dressmaker, and 1 believe
there are not a few who win agree with
me. saws a writer in the Chicago Times
Herald.
am one of the mortals so blest, but
like every other woman l am not going to
tell you who this person is, for you will
all be wanting her and then she will put
m her prices and consequently be as con-
seuuentia as every other typical dress
maker charging unreasonable prices and
at the same time taking the liberty to tell
one as many falsehoods as She pleases. 4
am, however, going to tell you something
she told me, and that something may be
as much use to you, or more, than II 1
should tell her name and address.
was wondering how 1 could economic
in gowns this summer; not exactly in
gowns that isn't what 1 mean, but how 1
could economize in order to have a num-
Der of gowns which l want but can't af-
ford to purchase. We were chatting
away over our sewing, for 1 have her
come to the house sometimes and then
help her with the odds and ends, which 1
find a great saving by the way, and so
put this query to her. Replying, she as
tonished me by asking why I did not make
my skirts myself say astonished ad-
wisely. for l was astonished. She knew
l could not sew and why she should ask
me such question as that 1 couldn't
fathom. yes, make your skirts your
self" she replied with emphasis, and the
result was that I am making all my
skirts and shall have only the expense of
the waists. This is how she arranged it.
First of all, she told me not to purchase
pattern; that she would come on GER
tain day and initiate me into the little
secrets that every first class dressmaker
has which secrets make the difference be-
tween gowns that look homemade and
those which do not, even though every
stitch has been made in the precincts OF
my ladys own sewing room. Her first
step was to draft 4 pattern; that she
made to fit me as near as possible; then
it was ready for use at any future date
when I should make my attempt alone
The next step was to pin the pattern
carefully to whatever lining is going to
be used cutting each width precisely like
the pattern, as the least deviation may
mean just the little thing that spoils the
well-built appearance of the garment
Basic each piece of lining to the goods
being careful to lay your pattern not only
to the best advantage of your material
but in the proper weave of the cloth, mus
lin silk or whatever the stuff you are
using may be. Mind, each piece, each
gore must be basted carefully and sepa-
rately, then cut accurately. Just here
she told me always to begin at the top to
haste and sew towards the hem, thus MAX
ing any unevenness at the bottom, which
may be trimmed off after the skirt has
been put together. In the front width we
put q row of basting down the center and
she advised me to do this In every wide
width when working alone. The several
widths and cores are now ready TO put
together. Join to the front width first one
SIDE width. This accomplished put the
other side gore and so on working toward
the back, having begun each time, as I
sald before, at the top to haste. The skirt
Is now ready to be stitched up. Still be-
s'hnlng at'the top stitch each seam care
4ully, so as none shall be drawn. If there
are blas seams a good plan Is to sew a
hralght bit of selvedge or muslin down
me seam when stitching the skirt up.
ms tdhtll out the DdStlnKS, press
tdch seam open with a moderately hot
ron. A particular caution she gave me
was not TO dampen or lay n wet cloth over
uhe seams, as this is apt to shrink the
eOous ana cause II to appear drawn, no
matter how carefully the seam may have
been stitched
10 Hhlsh the seams is the next thing to
w. Ahey may be bound, just as you would
nave them bound in a waist: the cloth
may be turned in a small seam and the
nlIng stitched down upon It, or they may
simply De overcast. This is simply a mat
WI OF preference and depends upon the
Mount OF time and work you want to put
on the skirt
having next put the facing on the
Jacket and put the pocket in, If one is
Go.e u your skirt is ready for the waist
ganu' CUT your band the length of your
ppaist measure, allowing an inch for lap.
a III TINS around your waist, put the skirt
o1 ana hasten it firmly with pins, just
a. " should hang to the band. Basic on,
.'NpNihg one pin at a time as you pro-
eleas; try on again and IL it hangs prop
t,S, sew Tor good. Put hook and eye to
iIi9t,eh at the top Of band, or two this
~ 5 woman says she prefers, one in the
h.'tiie or the placket length. Then two
large hooks for fastening to the waist.
T.tl out not least is to finish the bottom
I'M evenly, try on TO get the proper
myth then bind with the velveteen bind
~ sewing a strip Of narrow tape on at
e same time. Any silk, RULES or other
hlhg desired having been put on, loops
,5 hanging and another, and this time,
sii,I olgh, pressing being given, ones
Is ready to wear.
o ana II you follow the directions Of this
ea'elul seamstress, l predict you will be
az Iessful beyond your fondest dreams,
W. nave already been.
49,, az is trite advice to tell women to take
10y Gay as II comes to avoid remorse
yer what Is DONE and forebodlngs over
a "Iat 10 to come. but u Is no less valuable
~ we. Nervous prostration Is seldom
result Of present trouble or work, but
work and trouble anticipated. Mental
ustion comes TO those who look
'-y al ana climb mountains before they
1--WE at them. Resolutely build a wall
~ to-day and live within the euclos.
~, me past may have been hard, sad
in "tohs--it Us over. The future may be
~ H. me past but the woman who worries
fut u may not live 10 meet tiff she
' shs WIN bear It. The only thing