The Columbia herald. [volume] (Columbia, Tenn.) 18??-1935, 1897-04-02

smartest costume ever designed is
ly, and all the expensive trimming
in the world cannot give the desired
effect, or rather cover up the defect,
if there is an awkward droop down
at the sides, "hitch up" in the
front breadth or lot of ugly wrink-
les over the hips.
Clever dressmakers have discov-
cred that we'll hung skirt il bound
to give satisfaction, and the success
full establishments make a speciality
of the skirt cutter, who is generally
a different individual from the one
who fits the waist. This position
commands invariably a high salary,
and is considered to be one of the
most responsible.
The changes in skirt fashions from
year to year are sometimes so tritl-
ing as TO appear unessential, but the
inch on mans nose is more con-
spicuous than the inch added to or
taken away from front or side
breadths, and gore more or less
produces revolution in the femi-
nine mind that sometimes works
strange results. To the uninitiated
there is not a marked change in the
style since last season, but those who
know about such things know that
the front breadth is entirely differ
ent. On some skirts it is quite mar
row; on Others narrow at the top and
widening gradually to the bottom
of the skirt. Circular side pieces
and two straight breadths in the
back and all the fullness thrown
we'll back and gathered into small
space are some of the new points to
be noticed.
Four and a half to- five yards is
the popular width, and the material
is not made up with the lining, but
hangs loose, and the lining is faced
and stiffened, while the skirt itself
is only hemmed or faced. Circular
sides require darts on the hips, and
great care must be taken with these
same darts or they will stick out in
most ungraceful and unbecOming
way.
When the fullness at the back is
arranged in plaits, the plaits must
turn over, not under, so as to throw
out the skirt and not drag it in. and
there must also be plenty of ma
terial in the circular sides, so there
will be no ugly draw toward the
back.
Plain and trimmed skirts are both
in fashion, but the trimmed ones are
at present considered the smartest.
In plain cloth costumes the braid is
the favorite trimming, but in other
materials milliner's folds, black
velvet ribbon, ruffles and flounces
are all used-of course, not together.
The black velvet ribbon trimming
adds greatly to the cost of the gown,
for so many yards of it are required
to give the desired effect; but on a
black taffeta, for instance, it does
look so smart that it is bound to be-
come popular. The milliner's folds
also require a great deal of material,
and take a long time to put OH, but
they, too, add to the beauty of q
gown. These folds, like the velvet,
are cleverly arranged so that they
slope upward a little, and the top
ones reach to the belt in the back
but are quite far down in front.
Nine folds are considered necessary
to the welfare of any skirt, but fewer
can be put on, and, of course, will
not make the skirt so heavy, fol
small and light as they look they
add appreciably to the weight.
There is a great effort to introduce
overskirts, but the fashion has not
been adopted as yet. Accordian
plated skirts are very popular at
present.
We may expect many and varied
styles in the trimming of thin DIRE
skirts.
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