The times., 1897-07-25
ROOF GARDEN GOWNS.

threeciasses: Those who come in shirt waists
and sailor hats, those who pose in picture
hats and warnl-looking, conventional al dress
es, asd those who wear their thin summer
clothes with leghoIn hats with flower
trimmings. Doubtless, The choice lies be-
tween the gih of the sailor hat and the
cool looking fairy OF the thin dress. No
where else is 70 much freedom permitted
in the matter of epParel-a condition OF
things which is without doubt due 10 the
fact that the place is managed entirely in
The interests OF those Inen whose families
lave sought cool places in the country,
leaving them TO sizzle in the hot city.
These men, not having their wives, 10 look
after them, dress as they please, casting
conventionaIity 10 the winds and seeking
mere personal comfort and amusement.
Most OF the men wear suits in which
they have been transacting business all
day. A few even wear their bicycle
suits. Then there are the .chappies''
that come down from Newport in white
duck trousers and blue serge coats, with
.0lf Stockings that were Enthusiastically
purchased at the woman's counter. For.
though they don't exactly Ike TO have
il known. these same cllappies are get
ting even for past incursions on their
sock OF neclties and searfpins 10y pur-
l0ining their sisters hose. The raison
d'etre il their superior tlinness, and the
nlodus operandi is this: After having Sc
ques,rated the hose, the theying rascal
ships off the feet and puts on the tops
over Ills thin socks. One OF the most
attractive youths at the most popular
garden the other night was hailed with
delight by some of his pals as "Beri,
odd hoy from New Bedford He wore
white duck trousers tucked under golf
stockings at the knees The stockings
were black With red plaid tops one OF
he most noticeable accessories about his
costume was the miniature scarfpin that
held his white pique scarf in place The
face in The miniature was evidently that
Of his sweetheart or OF his newly-wedded
wife. aud it was very pretty AT any
rate, his friends made it interesting TO the
folks al the surrounding tables by their
anxious inquiries after her health
Several Of ihe boys Wore those narrow
brimnled coarse straw hats which are
easlIianafi bic along the beach at Buzzard's
Bay
With so much freedom Of dress among
tie men it is not surprising that young
women follow their example, and aim at
convenience and comfort by the same
methods. The pretty typewriter slipping
lemonade with her elderly escort may very
possibly have come directly fIom the office
without any alteration Of her business COS
tune. A. any Iate, she wears striped
shirt ,vaist yvith crash skirt and Panama
sailor trimmed simply with Wreath of
flowers.
.sniit waists and crash skirts have come
TO be the business woman's s summer uni
foIn. just az the jacket suit Of serge is
worn in winter White waists iroop along
Broadway of morning IL numbers suffl-
cient to produce a laundry trust if some
nan were found with the enterprise 20
esta llish one. They ale worn with skirts
OF era vhichis whittier and PIetiier than
lincn-snd white belts. The whole cumbin-
alton with white sailor hat has nee COOL
tffect THAI IS good to look upon these mid
summer DAYS Of so in the shade Never
WAS wlute 80 generally seen On the city
streets a , ha = been for the pa few weeks.
Dealers in shirt waists say there is more
call for white than any other kind. White
l,atis-e is the most common, but white or
gandie il rather pTetter, and OF COURSE
thinner Instead OF being made in reg
rlsr shiri waist style, hOW eyer, it Is bet |
tel To make thin waists open in The iarh |
with fullness Just at the edges 10 |
prevent them from gaping. II can then
l,e fastened at the neck and waist with /
out any hooks or buttons in between
The front should be 'pcuched''-that is, /
II should be cut longer than a tight-fitting |
waist. an d then gathered in at the belt IL 4
Is very popular device to run three or /
-four lsce-edged rufrIes around the blouse,
and as it is d trimming very easily manip-
ulated ii is worth trying by the amateur
The ruffles are prettiest when cut bias and
may be Scwed all amund the bodice or
merely oa the front For the neck, folded
ribbon stock is sufficient The sleeves may
be made to fit tight and stop at the elbow,
with puffs and bands of narrow insertion
alternating The easiest sleeve to make.
however.is tie mutton leg, which reaches
the wrist. where it is finished with several
hands OF lace insertion put on straight or
b;as to suit the weaTer's fancy 4 ruffle Of
se;ne kiR.l usually finishes the sleeve at the
shoaldcr. hut 1T may he made very narrow
II desired
Several az the roof garden girls who come
I'm UheiT sumner dresses to sip lemonade
while the tumbler balances himself in i'm
possible positions and his appendaged pro-
t0ttpe SiaadS on his hesd OF rides his long
cared charger the educated donkey-in
obedience to his keepers commands. sev-
eral Of these are themselves living results
~ training more strict and coercive than
any which has ever been applied to the
man OF the monkey who seem to do such
ma rvelt.us things with so great ease
IL is auirc as wonderful to observe how
a woman OF small cash win evolve some
ihing oHt OF nothing and actually con-
trirc TO lock pretty in It, Such women
rs these strike at the Keynote OF fashion
by grasring the essentials and Inolding
them according to individual tastes ami |
with the restrictions OF old or cheap ma
tersls. leaving the side issues entirely !
out OF the question. The roof garden
girl Is usually one of these. She Is as n
general rule one Of the women W no earn
heir own. and perhaps somebody's else.
living. and she hasn't much cash for
lothes. A few fashionable young ladies'
run Uf from the nearby summer resorts
q get little variety from the rllonoionous
lop and hammock which are the night and
iaT recreations ofmany umnaer girls. Such
as these wear pretty, thin dresses. not
Aiahorate but rather striking. One sun