The times., 1897-09-05
u The Woman
W of Fashion.

the gown are as long as it is white, with
some one Distinguishing feature 10 give it
character. White moire, Tor Instance, trim
with ecru- And the whole category Of white
muslins, with belts of Uulle, salmon, citron,
mandarin, etc.
The fichu in al its varieties continues
popular despite the fac5 that precious few
women know hcw to wear it. 1t is a com
posite accessory TO toilet, equally suited
TO extrenle youth, tignlfied age, and all
the friyolou9 and sedate stages between
The sole distraction is in the adjustment,
aud the artistic taste of the wearer is ut
once eyinced. So, don't wear one, girls,
unless you perfectly understand its pessi-
biliUies, ser, donned in ignorance, it will
suraightway add tea years 90 the unsuspect
ing an1 innocent victim.
Though red IN all it's phases has been
with us s:nce the spring and through the
summer, It's proper season is only lust ar
irving. It is a distinctly fally' color,
aud is only seasonabe when the leaves be
gin 70 turn and a certain degree of warmth
is necessary in color, ii not in texture
A handsome gown for early autumn is of
red cloth, the skirt flariug and about four
yards wide IL is trimmed with bayedere
strips Of black velvet on the upper part.
A simple bodice, trimmed with velvet opens
over a blouse front of white satin. EN-
broidered with gold.
Skimpy, skiInpier, skimp;est! And the
superlatiye degree is the order of the day
in sleeves. In this particular red gown is
is skiHight, without any pretense Of full
ness at the shoulder. The only relief is
three scanty, square. uncompromising little
tabs. trimmed with velvet. Drop the cpau-
iettes and the climax is reached.
Few, however, adopt this extremity, and
the saving grace OF slight fuiness or puff
@ilicoutnue to be indulged in by the many
while the adventurous few viii agoniZe
themselves for awhile in the throes of
fashion 'slatest freak. The dame will tarry
! at this stage long enough for her victims to
become thoroughly aware OF the discom-
fort OF the tight sleeves, strained muscles
and the excessive stupidity OF meek sub
mission. 4 general revolt VIII result, anG
m rcign of reason viii change places with
! fCIiy, for 81 BRIEF period at least.
New autumn hats are chiefly remar kable
for the huge birds poised, as it Were, with
all sells set, as though in the very act OF
flying, and very often forms the only trim
ming. The Ird Of paradise continues its
vogue, and, IL nything, is more III demand
than ever
Ii seems very simple matter at the
iirst glance to arrange {, chiffon veil over
! a sailor lat, but It's nUt So by any means.
| And as everybody, almost, wears sailor
Lat and the chiffon veil is a very necessary
adjunct In these late summer and early
! autumn days when the tender youth OF
| sunrier is dead, and the straight rays OF
| Old Sol are unmista kabie in their Intensity
and their ability to tan with telling effect,
, a yard and quarter Is the usual length,
and ii / s curious 10 see how many women
| VIII ecoEUmize on that eXtTa quarter. Fold
! il ia half ard tie a slip knot in the middle
of top, there II must be caught up loosely
| in the back, and herein lies the art, to
nave the veil hang loUSe from the faces
| 50 as to be lifted easily when desired.
| The soft masses make an effective trim
1 ming to the briu Of the sailor, and are
most beenminG in cream white and the
new blue, large dotted chiffon yelling,
| relieving the hard stiff outlines Of the
conventional sailor. The ends hang in
the back ara the general effect looks as
free from design on the part Of the weurer
| as though ii simply 1loatec through space
and dropped there.
The new straight front corset is es
peciaIly adapted TO conceal surplus adipose
and too buantiful outlines generally
Stout women the world over do well II
try II, FOR in these enlightened days, toe
many curves are a wrath provoking as arc
straight unc5upromising lines without q
single redeeming curve. For these women
10 whom even the qualifying adjective
slim cannot truthfuIly be applied, the
very short, or even the empire corset is a
saving grace. The object is simply to keeI
the waist within reasonably Small dimen
sions, leaving the bust and hips absolute
freedom, unhampered by artificial aidi
OF any kind, free translation of whict
means only a chance to grow.