The herald., 1897-08-08
LATEST FADS
Rage for Lace and Ribbon
Trimmings
new STYLES IN TEA GOWNS
SASHES A DIFFERENT SHADE
FROM THE DRESS
NEW STYLES IN TEA GOWNS
Charming Mantles and Jackets-N o
More Bright Colored Innings.
For Morning Wear

ical, as well as very charming. 1t is lace
and ribbon trimming. Not that this
sort of trimming is in use for the first
time, but it is the initial occasion when
1t has been declared the thing to use.
Such dainty effects are obtained with
it, and it can be carried out to advantage
by people whose purses are either long
or short. For the summer girl it is par
ticularly excellent, inasmuch as when
properly contrived it imparts exactly
that fluffy effect SO dear to her heart.
In spite of the fact that the tariff on
silks has been raised-it is the one thing
that the women know about the new
tariff bill-silks have never been cheaper
than they are now, and particularly the
plain and figured silks known as Chin
ese, Japanese and Indian. 1t is to those
perhaps that the lace and ribbon trim
ming forms the most charming garni-
ture. 1t is well to remember also when
speaking of this combina ton that both
are as appropriate for winter as for
summer, and therefore exceedingly eco
nomical, especially in the form of a tea
gown. Its style does not change, and
so a summer bargain in silk and trim
ming is just as good for midwinter as for
the time of purchase.
Fifteen yards of 22-inch silk will suf-
flee for a teagown, having Watteau
back and full front, and yard and half
less will do when this broadly plated
back is not used. The first of two very
pretty gowns in this style is simply a
close princess with semi-train and the
upper part of the front shirred at the
neck and again at point below the waist
line. bertha formed of six square
tabs, wider over the shoulders, is edged
with lace and insertion and the collar
corresponds. Collar band and belt are
of ribbon. The sleeves have a puff at
the top, an elbow ruffle, and are trim
med with lace at the wrist.
Soft wooden goods, suoh as cashmere
would also be very effective for this pur-
pose, particularly with lace and ribbon
or velvet trimmings. The second tea
gown of China silk has a separate Wat
teau back or train, and loose princess
fronts shirred in tiny square yoke at
tnc UeIt VI SdtIn rIUpuil. Inere Is
full ruche of lace around the throat and
at the wrists. The sleeves are full at the
top, and have deep cuffs of the lace to
correspond. Both the gowns described
are of plain silk, but figured material is
also used with good effect.
The sash is very much in evidence on
all up-to-date summer gowns, and if the
fashion should be continued in velvet
for fall use 1t will eniven many a wool
en- gown-but that of course is problem
attic. Certainly all sorts and kinds ap-
pear at present, ranging from five-inch
silk ribbon and foulard to printed gauze
and mousseline de sole, but of whatever
material, invariably having long, broad
ends If the sash is of fouard, it consists
simply of long, unlined strip of the
silk draped round the waist and loosely
tied either at the left side or at the back,
and having long ends almost to the foot
of the skirt.
But whatever else Is variable, ont
thing Is always certain-the sash must
be of different shade from that of the
dress with which it is worn. This is abb
solutely indispensable if one wants to
be truly fashionable. A decided con-
trast, too, is considered the correct
thing, black or white dress being
frightened with pink, blue, green OF
red sash, while that worn on a gray
dress will be either mauve or green.
Embroidered dresses, on all occa-
sions where stylish toilet is required.
are greatly in vogue. A very pretty one
was composed of cream white tulle de
sole over cream white pleated under
skirt, the tulle skirt being embroidered
with garlands of delicate pink wild roses
and foliage marvelously true to nature
These garlands rose at intervals round
the skirt from hem to waist, the front
width being entirely covered by the en-
broidery and framed on either side by
shell pleating of cream white English
point lace, forming a tablier.
The specific feature in garniture this
season is a square yoke II may be va
ried in design but it must remain yoke.
Some are very deep, and cover the dress
from one armhole to the other and then
comes short one, leaving a deep space
between it and the collar. Still others
have tiny pieces recalling the bolero CT
last season, running under the arms,
and yet another pattern finishes with
straight band running down either side
to the belt
The real novelty in yokes, however, is
an irregular effect, where one side differs
from the other in pattern and length.
These yokes are in jet, colored beads in
'-AAAoit' W. s. cSil anu Violet tlItS, CELL
cate evening colors such as coraiI and
crystal, turquoise enameled in gold.
black, and SO on indefinitely. Mousse
line grounds and burned d-out grounds
are equally handsome, and there is a
brilliant, silvered, four sided bead called
the diamant.
For the lower grade of Jackets and
mantles the fashion is turning to plain
Innings, mostly merveilleux. rhadames.
serges and satirs in piece dyed goods
while very fair demand exists also for
yarn dyed satins. The craze for bright
colored Innings is falling Off and the de
man for black is increasing, and as
novelty tan is being asked for. The
finer mantles still require fancy Innings
In all silk
For millinery velvet seems to have
been taken up principally as velours
miroir and velours soliel, in which form
it will be used extensively for ladies'
hats. This is shown by the early Paris
models. Regarding the fashionable
shade in this article, change seems to