The herald., 1897-05-30
POPULAR IN THE FIFTIEs
SOME STRIKING NOVELTIES IN
-MANTLES
silk and Chiffon Blouses Strongly In
Evidence-Lace Aprons Once
More-A New Skirt
Special Correspondence to The Herald.

gong 10 ,WedT Tie. .Sdiiie style VI ohii
than was popular from 1850 to 1866
What is more, in doing that we shal
be wearing genuine Partisan gowns, fo
Paris has at last caught the Victorian
era craze and delves into ancient histor!
for modern styles. There is hardly on
gown which has plain skirt. ALL how
ever, are very charmingly arranged, 81
much so, indeed, that one cannot find i
she may be opposed to skirt trimmings
One of the new skirts has a black
satin foundation covered with black
figured net with five rows of pleated
lace ruching about an inch and a hal.
wide carried around the skirt at inter-
walls to the hips, not in straight lines
but in lines that point up~ard at the
back. This same skirt is repeated IN
white silk with satin stripes and some
of the new laces, which are in fact ap-
plique sprays on a net foundation. An
other very pretty dress has blue and
white foulard skirt, arranged in hardly
perceptible soleil pleatings, with fri!l
of lace at the hem and made up over
q distinct silk foundation. 1t has {,
grass green front. The bodice is made
full back and front and trimmed elabor-
ately with lace on the left side.
Skirts are now wide and important
and appear much fuller in the front
than of yore. They require most care
ful handling and arranging. Fine, clear
silk organdie muslins are now printed
all over with white designs. One of these
recently seen is a charming pink made
over white silk with five pleatings OF
lace at intervals carried up the volumi-
nous skirt The bodice of this gown
is trimmed with narrow finely goffered
lace, which is also introduced at both
edges of the wider lace ruching of an
ecru tone. A fichu is worn with this
bodice, just crossing in front and meet
ing pink silk SASH The effect is quain;
and sirgularly becoming.
Now as to the sleeves we are going to
wear. They are so varied in style that it
Is only possible to mention the chief
characteristics of the newer ideas. First
then, they are unusually long, this be-
ing accomplished by carrying th5
sleeves far beyond the wrist in trumpe
form. in tabs, points, or other devices,
these being always supplemented by
deep frills of lace, lisse, chiffon or the
material of the gown. The perfectly
plain sleeve is not worn. There is al
ways puff, an epaulette of some des-
cription, or frills. These latter stand
out in a line with the shoulders, sup
ported by small, rounded piece of can
vas, bordered with whalebone.
acYt inc I'M, n ,,f1
made of white china silk with gay flow
ers scattered all over it. This is draped
with black net trimmed with four or
five rows of black velvet a large collar
of tire same, and very full frill of black
tulle around the throat. Some, for even
ing and carriage wear, are trimmed with
small flowers, such as violets, rosebuds,
forget-me-nots. A very striking one
recently seen was a cape of jet sequins
over violet silk, edged with black net
frill, partly cove,ed with rows of very
marrow violet velvet A large collar en-
crusted with Parma violete fell away
from smaller one edged with violets,
having a lining of gathered cream lace
nesting against the throat. The lace
was carried down the front, cascaded
ON one side and hanging straight and
pldlu uOW IN Tie OlI6I. ut NlOltlS WeT
perfumed.
To be really fashionable one must
wear tucks. They are seen on every
thing, and the work on some of the new
blouses and bodices is enormous. Not
only are quarter-inch tucks closely set
in groups all over the bodice and up the
sleeves, but these are frequently supple
mented by tucked bolero and by
cut evening bodices are arranged with
tucked draperies of lisse. Sometimes
the tuclss are horizontal, but more fire.
quently they are arranged to run around
the figure.
Blouses of every description, but es-
pecially those made of silk or chiffon,
will be largely worn this season. An at
tractive model in white chiffon is trim
med with rows and rows of narrow black
velvet ribbon and butter colored lace
insertions. Colored chiffon blouses in
every conceivable shade are to be seen
in equally pretty styles Some of the
daintiest ones are made in fine spotted
musins trimmed with narrow lace
edgings. A particularly good model is
made of muslin with a pin-striped
ground in white and pale colors, covered
with small, raised white spots. This
blouse is tucked on the sleeves, and trim
med with frlls which are edged with
narrow ecru lace.
Waist and banded bodices are quite
general and are invariably worn under
the skirt. Where the new jeweled and
tinseled belts are used, the skirt is set
into fiat band of silk about one inch in
width, and if this fits we'll the belt pre-
vents it from clipping. Belts, by the way.
are conspicuous feature this season.
For cloth and stuff gowns there are mar
row belts of white, ivory or biscuit col
ored leather, either with buckles covered
to match or of filigree silver. Tineel
bette in Rocco syle have elaborate fast
eringS in clasp or buckle fashion heavily
studded with colored gems. Then there
are jeweled, belts of metal with lozenge
and medallion links, completed by a
clasp or bucgle of larger size. The white
leather belts are charming in conjunc-
tion with white facings and revers and
finished with a white stock make a plain
gown of cloth or eerge extremely smart
Then beside these, there are the palmer
tartan belts with very simple clasps,
and perhaps these last are the mos
fashionable of all.
1t is settled beyond all question that
this is to be a season Of delicate ma