The times., 1897-03-21
IN THE COFFEE COUNTRY.
Queer Customs That Are Firmly Els.
tablished in South America.
lRY MARION nEPEWl

Express companies with their cumbrous
paraphernalia OF offices, horses, wagons,
checks and systems are considered an alto
Sethcrsuperfluou South Ameri-
ca, where, whether you have one or many
pieces of luggage to arrange for, you have
but TO say the word TO one OF the straight
backed, slender, sinewy little natives, an d
he without other conveyance than his head
and heels will serve you with 'neatness
and dispatch"
An American gentleman, whose business
requires his presence in Santos-a city
about midway between Rio Janeiro and
Monte yideo-siX months in the year, has
many interesting things to say of the
tpnishing strength and equilibrium OF
these wiry little crea lures. At one time he
had occasion to occupy a house some little
distance up the base OF n MONTANA
Thousand feet or more above the city
proper-from which the footpath descend
ing TO the sta ton was so nearly perpen-
dicUlar and so rocky that he never trl sted
himself to walk down 1t, but made long
detour around the declivity. This nazar-
dous route, however offered no obstacle
to the sure footed native, who, quite as
matter Of course, frequently made the de-
steamer trunk, weighing 200 pounds CT
more, on his head, and on top of that an
equally well filled telescope 1t IS, in
deed, the very nonChalant manner with
which these Brazilians balance one cnor-
nous bundle on top of another that SO
afnaZes the stranger
The same American tells of having his
attention suddenly aroused one day by a
IL -, II
the window, and upon looking out, saw
good looking little native, dressed In spick
and-span trousers and Prince Albert coat,
but barefooted, and carrying three huge
bundles on his head, while he smoked a
cigarette and dragged by long rope a
most refractory goat The pulling and
hauling OF the reluctant beast seemed TO
not in the least disturb either the mans
mental or physical balance.
This enormous muscular strength Of back,
neck and shoulders comes from their al
most constant occupation of loading and
unloading coffee the raising and exporting
of which may be said to constitute the
only industry of Santon. The coffee is all
exported / n sacks containing each l 25
pounds, and, as the men are paid according
TO amount loaded, they always carry two.
and frequently three, sacks at time on
shoulder and head
These natives bitterly resent all at
tempts at innovation upon their time
honored methods Nothing could induce
them, for instance, to adopt a modern
wagon in place of their accustomed two
wheeled cart, which for centuries has
undergone no change. The wheels OF
this vehicle are cut out of solid piece
of wood, so that the axle revolves with
the wheel. Even the oxen are so de-
voted to the everlasting creak, creak of
this ancient institution that they refuse
to hudge unless accompanied by its ia
miliar music. There is reason enough,
however, for respecting some of their old
landmarks. Notably magnificent aque-
duct that was built in Santos in 1910 by
the Jesults This wonderful piece of ma
sonry, apparently as perfect today as when
completed runs for twenty miles along
superb road deeply emboSomed in the most
luxuriant foliage. A portion OF it has
been utilized as a bridge over which to