New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-02-04
JANE HADING'S. GOWNS.
ARTISTIC DRESS EFFECTS IN "LIDYLLE
TRAGIQCE"-HOW LACE AND EN-
BROIDERY ARE USED.

| Paris. Jan. 23-Mme. Jane Hading wears some
charming gowns in "L'Idylle Tragique' nj the
| Gymnase. In the first act she appears gowned In
white cloth. but cloth embroidered and perfo-
rated that Il becomes almost lace In its effect The
bodice is entirely composed of this elaborate en-
broldery. and hooks on the left side under bou-
quet Of and orchids. The sleeves of the
same embroidered and ked cloth. and ter
inmate AT the wrists In a couple Of crcets OF mar
black MORE ribbon, below which a frill of lace
falls over the hands. The collar and belt arc of
white futile. the former having wings OF lace franz
Ing the face The upper part OF the skirt Is OF the
plain white cloth. the open work embroidery be-
ginning irregularly about twelve inches below the
hips. and then, like the bodice. the cloth is trans
formed into an elaborate and opcn-worked pattern,
which continues To the bottom. This is finished
with edge Her next change Is TO lavender
mousseline de Sole worn white satin. Wide
black lace insertion Is let into the silk muslin on
either side OF the front breadth continuing around
the skirt like an open skirt. Another piece Of the
same insertion borders the hem. The bodice has an
empiecement OF white satin. over which the NOUS
seine de sole is little low in the neck, where
it is bordcred with the black Insertion which also
continues down the left side. where II closes. 10 the
waist. There a large bunch of neurs de sorbler
gives finish The waist is enCircled with scarf
of white satin bordcred with lace at each end. \
lovely hat is with this costume. consisting of
exceptionally long and full white ostrich feather
encrcng the brim a large black bird of paradise
and trimming of neurs de sorhcr.
In the next act Mime. Hading wears a superb robe
OF red velvet embroidered with clair de lune beads
This Is made with great severity. cut prncesse.
with a train: the bodice low. with large scoop
over each breast finished merely with fold OF the
velvet the sleeves consisting Of frill Of red tule
embroidered with gold paillettcs, from whic. hang,
in front, long scarfs of the tulle. reaching 10
the hem of the skirt.
In the last act of all she wears a graceful tea
gown Of white crepe embroidered with a Byzantine
pattern of large flowers. the folds caught In at the
waist by a half-belt. with rocco buckle at either
end In front where 1t does not meet over this is
worn sort of loose boero embroidered in excess
sively glitterng paillettes. ard above are wide
shoulder pieces Of rose-color, ID velvet embroidered
with Ialettes. These end either side in two long
scarfs OF moussellne de sole and guipurc. cmbroid
cred with paillettes and fastened to the shoulder
pieces with CarbuChOns OF rococo work. An en-
placement of the rose-colored velvet marks the
square of the neck, across which the crepe Is gath
Other very pretty gowns in the same play are
worn by Mesdanes Sorel, Gerard and Yahne. The
toilets Of the two latter in the first act are effective
6sse"e M sole over S satin the skirt
quite plain: with graduated accordion peats, so
bodice is made en- blouse accordion pcatcd only
across the shoulders and neck, extending over
like square epauettes The blouse fastcns on one
side with a runie Of rose-colored pinked taffeta.
with a satin ribbon of the same shade run In and
out Of the material near the edge the sleeves alone
being Of the rose-coored satin.
Nine. Yahne's Is exquisite CONNECTION of rose
colored mousseline do sole over a taneta petit
coat Of the same shade. The skirt Is accordion
by insertion OF Naencennes. repeated at regular
intervals. five bands IN ALL the accordion pleats at
the bottom forming sort Of short hounc". over
the underhOdy OF mousseline de sole, gathered
low is a short embroidered jacket which extends
plainly across the front without an apparent open
ing with bow OF accordiOn-pleated mousSeline
the left side. the top shaped to the neck by a
tiny ruche Two frlls Of the embroiders cover
the tops of the sleeves. which. except for the fu-
at the extreme top. are wrinkled and tight
TO the wrist over which they extend The pictur,
poppy with 4 black velvet bow at the back.
Still another diaphanous toilette Is a Nile green
mousseline de sole worn over white tafeta UNDER
dress. The skirt is cut at the bottom in points.
bordered with two rufiies Of Malignes lace. The
corsage has little open bolerO of the green NOUS
seine de sole. over gathered bodice ana
edged with Malignes lace. and the sleeves are
gathered tight to the arm by circlets of narrow
Satin ribbon The draped belt IS Of green velvet on
the left side OF which is large bouquet of violets
A stylish gown by Nine Sorel In the last
inserted bands of ecru. crossing the front breadth
and also the bodice with small ruffie AZ the lower
edge OF each Insertion band.
The latest mot" from Paris Is that the next
modes of Loui- XIII. Worth has recently provided
Miss Sybil Sanderson with some lovely creations
after the times Of this monarch for her season in
St Petersburg In the meanwhile the indications
dresses will be the tight fitting bolero, made with
revers I'm front. like skirtless Jacket, for slight
figures These iaunty little garments are made
with a skirt to match and worn over silk shirt