The record-union., 1897-10-03

ny ~ i I"
uring prominently among some of the
handsomest "faconne" woolens of the
fall season.
| A number of cloth capes for early au-
tumn LAP across the front like dou
lebreasted coat, and fasten with two
or three large handsome buttons. This
style of cape has small revers also, and
is slightly pointed front and back and
rather short on the sides.
Partisan designers seem to be taking
special delight just now in ribbon trim
mings of al kinds, and among other
patterns bright tartans are made use
of on gowns of ecru and flax-col0red
cashmeres and etamines, and gray and
fawn- -cOlored sarges mohairs and silk
and wool reps. Paquin, Doucet and Sara
Meyer have also sent cut some black silk
canvas gowns for elegant autumn wear,
made over costly tartan taffetaS, with
elegant bead garnitures on the bodice
in colors reproducing those in the plaid
ed underdress. These passementeries
are wrought on net, and there are spe-
cial neck, girdle, and sleeve designs.
A black and white checked gown of
costly taffeta silk, with Killed effects on
the sides of the skirt, shows the bodice
in surplice form and the sleeves snug
and wrinkled. Upon the shoulders and
again at the elbows are three double
frills Of the silk, edged with black ac-
cordion-pl pleated chiffon. Many of the
bodices for slender youthful wearers are
made with sharp points, and they fasten
under the arm or else at the back-rows
OF insertion velvet ribbon or passemen-
terie bands covering the darts, or often
the bodice-lining alone has darts, the
outside laid in horizontal tucks or sur
pllce folds coming from the shoulders.
Shot taffeta puffs impart a dainty and
pretty effect under a little sleeve puff
of batiste, mousselaine de sole, or black
or cream net. Bretelles, fichu effects,
epaulets, lace-edged berthas and gath
cred or pleated frilIs, that stand erect on
the shoulders, are seen on many new
French gowns that have only a coat
sleeve, with little or no fullness at the
top.
A very pretty toilet of soft dove-gray
repped silk trimmed with currant-red
velvet and accordion pleatings of gray
mousseline de sole was worn recently by
a very lovely young girl with brown hair
and eyes and a lily-and-rose complex
ion- The little sleevepuffs We're of the
velvet, with frills of the gray silk mus
lin falling above them. There was also
a full front and a neck ruche of the
same, with a cluster of pink roses at one
side
To accompany the new very hand
some black velvet bonnets and hats.
decorated with sable plumes, are black
velvet jackets, capes, p alerines with long
scarf fronts. and costume cloaks made
much like a Drincesse dress, but with
elegant shoulder trimmings that give
it a street air. In all the endless cate
gcry of fabrics, there is none 50 univer-
sally becoming as velvet. Wonderland
their name is legion-who cannot wear
other blacks successfully, choose black
velvet without hesitation for either
wraps, G 3wns or accessor ries. The dresses
Of velvet they relieve with rich creamy
laces if the complexion is forid or sal
low. for to either of these types unre-
lieved lustreless black is far from being
complimentary.
Very pretty models for small shoulder
capes are brought out some of which
have the long graceful stole ends on the
front that fall low on the dress skirt.
Velvet, corded silk, and moire are used
for these little wraps, but fabrics
matching the street gown are likewise
very fashionable. II all depends on the
uses to which the garment is to be put.
in making the selection. OF course, il
is always necessary to have at least one
utility costume-cape, short jacket. or
longer coat included-which viii prove
suitable when a silk or velvet one would
look most inappropriate.
The deep rich Cleopatra" colors will
all be in marked favor this autumn: the
tawny golden browns. russets. and the
ehaudrcn or pinlzish copper tints mixed
with other dark dyes; also many fruit
and foliage shades; and particularly the
velvety reds and yellows of the wall
fiewer and nasturtium.
Some of the very smart fur garments
for the coming season have a frilling of
! rich lace arranged inside of the collar.
with ruffies 10 match at the edge of the
fiaring sleeve-cuffs.
The slashed models, giving the effect
Of long square apron front. reach
quite to the bottom of the second skirt.
and on tailor costumes of cloth. mohair
tweed, cheviot, etc. the slashed edges
are decorated with silk gimps put on
in the verious fanciful designs.