The herald., 1897-09-19

tight. They'll appear rather large and
comfortable, the idea being to make
a man look athletic and rugged. So
when you order a sack coat have your
tailor give you good square shoulders.
loose back and a front fitting nicely,
but not too tight. Trousers a little on
the pegtop order-say averaging 1S
inches at the knee and 16 at the bot
tom-go with the suit.
SWELL ATTIRE FOR AFTERNOON
AND EVENING.
Formal dress for day wear will In
clude a double breasted, three-but--
toned frock of vicuna or undressed
worsted, with lapels faced to the but
ton holes. 1t should fall about to the
knees. Waistcoat the same or fancy.
Trousers striped, pegtop shape; high
hat. patent leather shoes; high stand
ing, lap-front collar; Ascot tie"
And then for evening wear?"
well, the average man will be happy
to know that evening dress changes
very little. The coat is fine twilled
worsted, 81 to 3S inches in length for
the average man; the lapels are
peaked, the collar larger than last
years, the skirts flve inches wide at
the bottom, the edges bind-stitched.
The waistcoat has four buttons and
V-shaped opening; the trousers are
the same cloth, the cut inclining toward
the pegtop. With evening dress avoid
the embroidered shirt, ornaments of all
kinds, and jewelry. A plain white shirt
with three small gold studs and with
link cuffs attached. plain standing
lap collar, and a lawn tie, tied by the
wearer are correct. The tie should fit
the collar. Ties are now made in diff
ferent lengths. Tell your haberdasher
the size of collar you wear. A IA 1-2
collar calls for a tie about 20 inches
long.
"In overcoats, the Chesterfield will be
the most popular of the season. 1t Will
reach just below the bend of the knee
and be made of cheviot, worsted, or
lambs wool-browns, blues and grays.
The centre seam in the back will be
vented. 1t will have the square shoul-
dered, full-backed look.
1.-The negligee overcoat will be the
covert, just long enough to hide sack
coat. Under no circumstances should
this be worn with any but sack suit.
1t Is made of covert cloth. in various
shades, of which tan is most popular,
with vented side seams. fly front, all
seams strapped, heavily stitched edges,
and cut rather loose. In fact, 1t will
have the appearance Of hanging
straight from the shoulders.
Another popular coat will be the
double breasted box coat made Of Ker
sey or smooth faced beaver, falling two
lrvo f,1r-
nished with a velvet collar. 1t has
large peaked lapels and flaps over the
pockets, the seams Tapped, the edges
double stitched.
For driving, a full box coat OF ker-
sey Is appropriate"
What will the man wear who Is
in love with his own shape?"
Probably a paletot, which Is that
tight-fitting frock overcoat, very hard
| for the average man to wear. 1t must
be made to order and fit like a glove.
Unless you can have it made to order
and stand in the posture of soldier,
better leave it alone. 1t is especially
coat for well-shaped, well set up
men. 1t has a velvet collar, peaked
lapels, and is double breasted or fly
front. Material, worsted cheviot, or
| Venetians.
storm coats or ulsters will be made
about on the old lines-massive gar
ments, down to the ankles, double
breasted, with big lapels and great
collar.
1.-THE Inverness is a stylish garment
for evening wear, made long, with a
cape of chevict or lambs wool.
Fur collars on overcoats are not to
be as common this year as they have
BEEN Nice coat for man to wear II
he can afford it and wants to, but men
of wealth don't usually care to use
their clothing as a means of advertis-
ing their bank accounts. Such coat
would be a long half box sack, the
back centre seam with a long vent.
the collar cut shawl fashion and faced
with fur. Persian lamb or Kersey Is
about the best combination.
Fancy waistcoats will be worn with
either formal or business and outing
suits. For formal wear, either light
Marseilles, double breasted, or black
silk self-fgured and double breasted;
for business. fancy worsteds or Tat
tersalls. double breasted; for golf, the
same materials in louder patterns.
"For day and negligee use the fancy
shirt will stay. The best pattern is
a stripe, either running up and down
or crosswise. Cuffs of same, collar
white. The most popular collar for
dav use is a solid front, high-banded
turn down; for formal wear, straight
standing lap front.
"For neckwear the Scottish plaids
will be used very extensively-the but
tertly bow, the two-inch four-in-hand