The herald., 1897-04-25
LIFE ON A DESERT ISLAND IN
THE PACIFIC DESCRIBED
Skeletons by the Dozen and curios
by the Bushel Unearthed-How
the Dead Are Buried


And bogies and serpents and crows.
He buried his dead with their toes
Tucked up-an original plan
TIL their knees came right under tneir nose
Twas the manner OF primitive man!
On q bright morning In the early part
of November the writer and one COM
panion left Avalon on board the yacht
HNellie'' for voluntary exile OF two
months on the uninhabited island of
San Nicolas which Is some twenty
miles southwest of Catalina. Our object
was to collect relics of a by-gone race
which peopled all the islands In the Santa
Barbara archipelago up to the early
part Of the present century. The whole
Of this group Is rich in anthropological
interest, but San Nicolas Is especially
attractive to the relic hunter on account
Of Its distance from the mainland, and
also because Its reputation for stormy
weather and rocky, dangerous coast
causes the prudent navigator to give 1t
. wide berth. For this reason it is never
visited by any except the very few who
60 there on the same quest as ourselves.
After getting our provisions on board
We set sail about IL o'clock with light
breeze in the hope OF making Redondo
that night, where we had to call in order
to take on board some lumber and pro-
visions, which were to be landed some
eighteen miles west of that point. We
had light winds most OF the trip until
fine breeze struck us about dusk, giving
the yacht chance to show her sailing
qualities, which she did to our satisfac-
tion and delight.
The setting sun glded the western
Sky. and l wondered If those who have
never seen a sunset on the ocean would
believe 1t possible to crowd so many
colors in perfect harmony, were some
gifted artist to reproduce the scene as
1t actually appeared.
The wind continued fair and we sight
ed the lights of Redondo about 1880 pm.
The moon, being young, had already
set, and as there is only an open road
stead we had some difficulty in making
FAST to buoy. After getting the cargo
on board we set sail for the point where
we were to land II, passing Santa Monica
and the Malibu ranch in plain view.
On Sunday, the 18th of November, we
started on the final stage of our voyage
some sixty miles to San Nicolas. We
made good headway, and when we went
to bed at o'clock, were running ten
knots an hour with even our stay-sail
set. This was nothing to what we made
about II o'clock. We were awakened by
the man at the wheel yelling for assist
ance. The wind had freshened so much
that We were rushing through the water
At steamer speed, and 1t became neces-
eary to shorten SAIL the Nellie giving us
warning, that II we continued to crowd
her, she would shorten sail herself. The
wind continued to increase and the cap
tain was compelled to take in the flying
Sib and finally the foresail. Still the
vessel was flying through the water at
racing speed. The sea, lashed by the
strong wind, presented a magnificent
appearance, and as the Nellie buoyant-
ly rose to the top of each wave, we Won
dered what sort of a shore it was we
caught fitful glimpses of, as it seemed
q barren mass in the deceptive moon
light. We had, as the captain expected,
struck the east end of San Nicolas, and
as the coast was not familiar to him, he
determined to lay to until daylight so
rs to choose the best anchorage, espec-
tally as 1t was his intention to land ue
near the west end, where we were told
there was shanty Of some description,
which We hoped would afford us some
protection from wind and rain, and
what we dreaded most of all, the driving
sand.
The fresh sea air had sharpened our
appetites. so we did ample justice to
our breakfast, after which, it became
necessary to gather together our belong
ings, which during the trip had become
somewhat scattered. Indeed, I expected
to nnd the coffee already mixed with the
sugar, and the beans and potatoes play
ing hide and seek with each other, after
the tossing about they had been SUBJ
5ected to for the past six days. We were
pleasantly surprised, however. to find
everything intact. Besides provisions
We took with us the usual camp equip
age. as well as books and tobacco to So
lace our leisure moments and rainy
days.
A BARREN ISLE
A. soon as daylight appeared the
0eptain anchored just inside the lSelp,
Which surrounds the coast on one side
o. the island, at any rate. On closer in
epection the island does not belle its
reputation for barrenness Looking to-
ward the west end one can see nothing
ct all but white sand, the same as on
the seashore above high water mark
Xne nils, which rise apparently some
go rect, are covered with It; seem. in
1act, to be made Of 1t. How any water
can be found on such desert is a prob
ZEN wnlcn somewhat staggers us. There
ID no sign of life on shore nor. indeed.
90 we expect any, as 1t is chiefly for the
sake OF the relics of dead people that
We are come. 1t Is, however. d rather
unique sensation to feel that we two
are to be the only human beings on the
island for period of two months. II
may be, we shall find several dead In
dams. and, as the dead Indian is said
to be the good Indian, 1t may be prefer
able to see them that way. Still, thev
will hardly be company that we shall
feel like inviting to join us in our even
tng's amusement.
The captain intends staying for a
couple OF days to see us settled, when he
viii return to the main land. We have
instructed him not to come for us until |
after the first Of January. so we stand !
little show of seeing any human face |
except our OWL until then.
We were rowed ashore and found, as |
We had been told, a good landing at |
Coral harber. Although this refuge from |
the ocean has such pretentious name |
1t 10 by no means capable OF holding a |
man. -of-war. The entrance has appa- |
rently been cut by the friction of the |
waves through the ledge Of rocks that |
line the beach. and Is only about ten
feet in width. The channel between the |
rocks Is about fifty feet long, terminate |
ing In tiny bay. just the place to land !
from q boat, although the breakers do |
.ssqns sA 20 6IIBuoIsBooo slsV VI emoo
Quently discovered.
Diesmbarksd. we found ourselves at
the foot Of stsep bank Of sAnd up |