The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-18

BONNGTS,

The new fashions in headWear for
women are in immense variety, all
governed, however, by a few general
rules.
Noticeable even to a careless observ-
er is the scarcity Of hats that are
plainly intended for dressy occasions.
This is because the tendency to discard
headdress at such times is now marked.
The hair is done deliberately, and fire.
quently tying a soft coil with a rich
bow Of ribbon offers an establishment,
though it is part of the Golf and in
no way a headdress.
Among the hats that make no at
tempt at dressiness sailors are pIenti-
full. The untrimmed sorts show wide
brims, fairly low crowns and wide rib
bon bands. 1t is pleasant to note, too,
that such Of these hats as are suitable
for wear with yachting rigs, etc, will
be large enough to do without elastic
The great trouble has each season been
that these sailors have all been in
small head size. With trimmed sailors
the brims are higher than ever.
Gewgaws are no longer admissible on
millinery. Artistic buckles and orna-
n2ents are often employed to add to the
beauty Of handsome hats, but common
substitutes never. Little soft tams Of
velvet, finished with a single upstand-
ing plume held in place by rich jewel,
may be worn with a costume to match
late in the season and if there is a
soft folding of rich lace against the
hair all around such a hat will serve
for the entire season. We are no longer
as absolute as we used to be about
straw for summer and felt or velvet for
winter.
Wells will be worn with all hats. The
big spot veil is out of style all of a
sudden. You see it worn a great deal,
but that is one proof that it is gone by
The correct veil now is a delicate mesh
that really offers a protection to the
skin. White chiffon spotted in black IS
becoming and is to be much worn, and
there are shown very delicate Weavps
for wells showing a mixture of black
and white threads.
The straws for early wear are very
rough and are trimmed for the most
part with velvet. The velvet trimmed
straw is an appropriate compromise
between the heavy felts of winter and
the airy millinery of summer.
Purple violets will be more popular
than ever, if such a thing can be pos
sible, and white violets appear as a
novelty of the season.
CamelliaS are a new flower for mil
linery use, and so are reproductions of
delicate orchids. The latter are almost
as expensive at first cost as the genuine
orchid, though naturally they last
longer.
All flowers will be much used, and it
seems likely that feathers will as the
season advances be less and less en-
ployed in millinery effects, though
among the early flower toques, which
are hardly more than series of flow
er knots, fastened together in the cir
cling folds of ribbon, are many that are
ornamented by a single outstanding os-
trich plume. For these pIumes white
or black is the color without reference
to the hues of flowers or ribbon.
Pink will be a shade most highly IA
Vored in the millinery world this sum-
mer. Pink roses-nOt the dull, sicklY
looking kind that seem to be afraid to
be too bright, but roses that look OK
actly like natures own-Will grace any
number of straw hats for young maids
and matrOns alike.
An old fashioned quilting shows on
the underside of the crown of rose
colOred satin or gauze, and the bonnet
is trimmed with a careless tossing of
wild roses on the brim and a knot of
dull green ribbon. The ties should be
soft, rose colored silk or chiffon if you
are prepared to change the scarfs often
enough to keep them perfectly fresh.
A great many women buy their hats
for two years, a new spring hat one
year and a new winter hat the next
year.
For such extended use just now a
bonnet must by all means be chosen
something, for instance, in a softly
woven dull green chip the crown small
and high, the brim spreading in front