The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-12-19
TEACHING COOKS TO COOK.
1rRa sEELY sTARTS a SCHOOL FoR
DOMESTIC sERTAVTS.

practice or the Culinary Art In All Hts
rrnpohes-PracttcAi nnstructiou That VIII
R-abie The= 70 Oct ana Hole Places.
There IA a cooking school at 90 West Twenty
second street worth visiting. It 10 exclusively
for cooks, tho first OF the kind New York has
ever had. and was started by Mrs. X. La Seely.
For over twenty years Mrs. Seely has conducted
n bureau for the employment Of domestic ser
yants. and 1t is for the sake OF both employer
and employoo that she has set this schomo on
foot. Most housskeepcrs will doubtless no
pleased to loarn that tho cooks are taking to the
cooking lessons as ducks to water. This will be
good news indeed. for everybody who has had
any dealing with cooks at all knows that they
arc tho proudest creatures that hhunt the earth
in petticoats, and while they do not express 1t
that way, as . class, they believe that there is
nothing that they do not know in the way Of
preparing plain food or fancy dishes.
Something has set the cooks to thinking.
however. Perhaps 1t 10 tho fact that 30 many
families have given up housekeeping and are
living in apartment houses, where there nre
restaurants, or In hotels, leaving many cooks
minus good places; or 1t may DO that cooks have
caught tho spirit Of the times from their mis-
trcssos, and their higher selves are crying out
for Advancement. Be that as It may. Mrs.
seely's cooking classes for cooks have started
of with q boom.
"Two things put Il into my head to start this
school," said Mrs. Seely when asked about 1t.
Ladies' who secure their cooks through mo
often como back with complaints like this:
my cook 10 O very fine cook. but she can't make
soups, and we are such believers in SOUP or
tho cook you sent me 10 O jewel. but. dear me.
she can't make puff paste that an ostrich would
eat or my cook can make all kinds Of fancy
dishes, but when it comes to broiling a steak to
I.l IL
ing an egg properly she is out of It,
and cooks arc often discharged because they
cannot make certain dishes or cook certain
meats we'll. On the other hand. there was an
unconscious demand for thorough training from
the cooks themselves. They realize that lack Of
knowledge in any branch of cookery often
Causes them to lose o good place or keeps them
from commanding higher wages. and recently
they've come to me by the dozen and asked for
tho address Of q cooking school.
"of course, my school IL experimental, but I
am willing to go to considerable expense to get
It In good running order. and II 1 find that
cooks arc anxious to improve their methods in
cookery and to learn how to mako dishes In
which they are deficient, as we'll as new ones.
/ shall establish q training school for domsstics.
where cooking 10 taught at any hour OF the day,
and where women arc trained in laundry work,
chamber work. and. indeed, in every depart.
ueuL y QOubcuOlu "OIk. 1nGE0 lS CeTJh lnly n
for a school OF this kind in this city, for
the cry against poor cooks and for good ones 10
"Miss Lemcke. daughter of Mrs. Geslno
schools. 10 teaching the classos. and goes about
mott s sapiahai how ,1 a v dish s shouid Be sp pyeps snS G Snd
then merely permit her pupils to see hor do It.
ing like handling the materials yourself to learn
BY psshsp. you'd me T. yIsis a Class 9Sno I;
. small but well appointed Kitchen. Miss
tiating a GLASS of three into the mysteries of
pun paste. or rather two OF them. for the third
ratse 3 fe sn irrs aufnsss COOK on thg in sna abe 81 sh e oeoa Fl or
time, and declared that nobody living would
pound Of paste" explained the teacher. Mix
Really, I'm such . poor hand with put
the people I cooked for last always sent out for
pasties, and SO I determined, as soon as I heard
Of a place where 1 could learn to como and
That's right" said Miss Lemcko. for the
Be- one. Now. .yoa've both got your sSH. p pa to
mixed, each put 1t on the board in front Of you
hard Sna S sSe, i bo mith b your sfra lisali, ~ eP Psasii ses your IT
While the two beat and banged the paste like
recipes Of the Waldorf Chef and Deimonico's
with so ine o scorn that one could almost inn
o otaoS t 80 of ten Tat Tat safety h had dn made pisi he 81 ta lhs
Now. roll your paste out this way" said Miss
Lemcko when 1t had been pounded until 1t could
square and then cash wash a quarter Of a pound
the centre q your square. That's the way.
NOW fold the EGGS OF paste over 1t and roll 1t
NeGt fol ( it 'G up. and Il i must n s1Sn BE- g II placed laced
rolled again Puff paste should be- rolled in
very least, twenty minutes after each rolling,
1t should rest altogether at least an hour. I
and roll It whenever 1 think about it. But re-
member this, we roll pun paste in this way to
% When ahS you Sut leil f Il se Ias P tims. P e 5estEys, to and nd
back. Never roll it moro than six tines
When tho paste had been put on tho Ice the
was = SO % painful snG for T her to % Do SO t iUa'e the Other IL
two were plainly embarrassed. Perhaps they
one was as frank as she was fat and owned up
70 wanting to take q r guisr course Of lessons.
r rsDosS Mira ins. s sSa /. h sa .SH S' 4 sU soof an % b sss
~ want to know how TO make Hollandalse
%ss Se ion sp oi i. Fhs COOK ot Efls shsy i hsa TSs ofofe na
mSaG a q 10 sf but sa hat t SSs s MI she Z ,O Gould tin, eoo OK
fit to cat. I've noticed these fine cooks that can
make soups and sauces French style can't do
much else. As for baking"
y all means you must learn to make Hol-
!andaiso sauce" interrupted Miss Lemcke.
Come now and do Just as 1 say. Break the
yolks OF three eggs into q small saucepan and
stir them to a cream. mixing In One-fourtho of n
teasDoonful OF salt and the same of grated nut
meg. Now place tn 3 saucepan in a larger ono
OF hot water. but do not put 1t over the hro yet.
Add four ounces of butter in small pieces. stir.
ring all the time, and when it has thoroughly
melted place the saucepan over the fire and stir
the sauce until 1t 10 thick like mayonhaise.'
amazement.
why. noi' exclaimed the other two cooks,
who were up on this dish. $780,
Mo- said Miss Lemcke. 1.-THE reason 1t is so
rich Is because 1t is nothing but egg and butter.
when II is done, after you take 1t of I q tre a
short time, add q Ia blespoonful OF lemon juice,
and II makes tho color lighter and improves It
to add q tablespoonful Of whipped cream"
That's where / fell down on this sauce" ex-
claimed the cook. II always put in soup stock,
and ] never cooked It in a vessel OF hot water.
80. Of course. It cracked. Butt can cook lobster
herself straight before her fellow workers.
in the meantime the other two were giving
their pun paste Its third rolling. do you
said the fat cook, plenty of people,
rich people l mean. wouldn't have this made at
hnnA ThaU tIlA 1ipA N nnzly H. -