The record-union., 1897-06-13

shoulder to half way to the elbow. The
butterfly and bow-knot draperies are
! still used on sleeves for evening wear.
/
Very cool and attractive is a grass
| linen gown made up over apple-green
satin, the upper and under skirts join
| ed at the waist only by one belt The
| lined is Scalloped at the lower edge, and
| the satin is finished at the hem with an
| accordion pleated ruche. The short
| jacket bodice is scalloped also, and in
front is a full vest of silk muslin the
shape of the linen. shirred full over an
under-vest on pink and green fancy
satin. The sleeVe-puffs are of the linen,
| the green satin glimmering through the
semi transparent material with dainty,
| artistic effect. Green in endless shades
| is used on summer toilets both for lin
| ings under transparents and for entire
| toilets, foundations under short capes
of chiffon, silk muslin, grenadine, etc,
and in millinery the color is used to eX-
| cess.
| In no point whatever is fashion sub
| jected to any sort of rule in the shape
of bodices. OF pointed waists, shirred,
-pleated waists. yoke waists,
blouse, Norfolk bebe, pompadour jack
ct bodices, round surplice, 'or Jersey
styles there is no end; they may be
either in habit, cuirass, frivoously
French or quaint Quaker fashion, may
be as long as a Joan dare bodice, or
the natural waist-line may be relegated
to the armpits and yet be equally the
vogue. The only vital question to be
( Wpi0ha6 in tn hQ ic
which of them is the most becoming
| But the very unaccountable manner in
which SO many women decide this real
! ly important question passes human
understanding; SO many of the weighty
ones with no length of waist, selecting
the short round bodice, with often a
J belt and buckle en- suite: so many frail.
| slender ones choosing the long, plain,
| scanned, uncompromising basque with
no blouse-like draperies, no full frilly
effects anywhere, only up and down
| fatness of the most positive type.
|
Very many of the new shirt-waists
in lawn, batiste, linen, chambray, etc,
are still made with starched collars
and cuffs, very pretty styles being
formed of repped cottons patterned
with Oriental designs in beautiful col
orings Etons and zouaves are worn
| over shirt waists of every description,
| from lace and silk to plain and fancy
| gingham. Very often the Eton is black
| and the stock collar and neck-bo
match the jacket in color, giving a tom
| ing effect to the waist and modifying
considerably its severe outlines. Black
EtOns and stock collars over pink and
| white waists are always becoming and
! dreSsy. There are few garments how
| ever, that a woman wears that require
so much nicely of cut and finish as
| an Eton or any other of the short jack
! cts that merely reach the waist-line.
| Great care is necessary in arranging
the belt below these garments, but
| this care seems not uncommonly to be
disregarded, and the result is anything
| but attractive.
Berthas and Marie Antoinette fichus
of silk muslin with pleated frills of the
same, one falling partly over the other,
are always useful in imparting a fresh,
| dainty effect TO a gown at small ex-
pense. Net is easy of adjustment, and
may be edged with narrow lace. Book
| muslin is too wiry to look easy and
graceful. but India null drapes we'll
and is not costly. as it is very wide,
! requiring but a few yards for an en-
| tire toilet. fichu included Very fine
| dotted Swiss muslin of excellent quail
| ity can be purchased for 19 cents a
yard, and fourteen yards will make a
cool and pretty toilet, this quantity be-
| ing quite sufficient to make flounces
and frils for both gown and bertha.
The Marie Antoinette tichu is most fa-
vored. but all styles need careful ad-
| justmert. and the manner of arrange
ment differs according to the form of
the wearer. or should do so. When
the waist is short the fchu ends should
come down we'll below the waist-line
China effects are still the keynote of
very many elegant and pretty fancies
| in the world of dress the patterns ap-
pearinc among silks, satins, muslns,
| and silk- and-wool fabrics, and instead
of the crisp frou-frouish taffeta silk
dress lining pretty chine brocades are
much Used. Then 70 nee of the same,
cut bias pirked on both edges, and
placed irside the hem. is imperative.
These fancy silks look we'll for a
/ change. but the shct patterns, or bet
ter still. tie plain lustrous taffetas in
monochrome. are really the most ele-
CANT and refined choice.
The checi-ed. broca6ed. striped and
barred 81 k-and-wool materials imported
| this season are suitably for any or
dinary occasion. and if tailor-made and
| handsomely trimmed. they form ele-
giant church. visiting and carriage cos
tunes. Scme of the mohair Siciliennes
are likewise as handsome in appear
| ance as a rich silk, and the white and
cream patterns for evening, brides
maids and graduation dresses are as
elegantly decorated and deicately silk
lined as white satin CT taffeta silk.
/ Maufed Iimelfn Tell