The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-10-05
for d1lornen

When the frosty weather comes the
feminine maid begins 10 dwell Upon APP
propriate frost-defying garments. APP
parently there is no limit to cnoice.
Charming sets, consisting OF cape. mum
and toqua or boa and big hat are made
of fur ana rich materials. and are really
as pretty as they are costly. One OF these
sets is of grebe and castor velvet, the
si.lvery feathers forming q deep collar
over the cape, which consists of several
frflls OF sinely plated velvet. The stand
ing collar has a ruffIe OF cream-tinted
lace in the back and fastens in front with
clasps OF a%methysts and pearls set in fine
cut steel. The muff is of grebe and has
huge wings of plated velvet at each end,
which give ii the appearance of one OF
the muffs that Romney's aides used TO
wear. The toque is a delightfully."- Jaunty
bit of millinery. trimmed with grebe and
cream colored lace. On one side is a knot
of hurnt-orange velvet and a group OF
ospreys held by a jewel of steel and
pearls.
In a stylish black velvet set the hat is
large. the brim edged with a ruche or
black or shirred velvet. The faring brim
turns back with a big steel buckle; four
curly ostrich pluTnes nod over the brim in
front and at the left side, and q long
plume curls around the crown and droops
over the brim in the back. The mum is
Of black velvet, with frills OF shirred
velvet, lined with warm .cerise satin; the
boa is a tube of velvet. tucked at inter
walls of four inches; it is strewn with Sc
gums of fine cut jet.
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Glace velvet. Terry velvet and uncut
velvet in black, beige. castor and gray
are used for the smartest hats. Most of
the large hats are black. trimmed with
plumes and unrelieved by either a touch
of color or a scrap of silk or satin. The
most desirable of all feathers are the UNI
dyed ostrich pIumes. They are considered
in Paris the acme of elegance, and their
beautiful tint of cream and brown are the
fashionable tones for everything this sea-
son. All kinds of odd feathers are worn,
whole pheasants, head, tail and all, breast
of magpies. quilts and heads of owls, and
ospreys of Goura feathers. Some of the
ostrich feathers a one side made fluffy
and soft, like down: then the ostrich tip
is called a "moufflon tip" because of its
resemblance to that woolly fur.
When a feather is required to encircie
the crown of a hat to droop over the brim
in the back the milliner has to resort TO
ingenious strategy. She makes a fluffy,
fiat boa of feathers ard to this attaches
one long plume to droop over the brim,
thus obtaining the desired picturesque
seffect without sending especially to South
Africa for the tail plume of some giant
ostrich.
Among the new fabrics is Liberty satin
in dark tints. 1t can be obi MED in all the
~Iaans Of hI,,a oraan 2 and brown
and is a decided novelty. this is the
first season this soft and Justices material
has beer sold in this country except in
the pale, evening shades. such as pink,
blue and amber. The satin is softer than
ordinary satin and owing to its high
Iustre seems to be of a more beautiful
color. For house gowns and fancy loose
bodices this material Is ideal.
Some of the pretty blouse jackets have
narrow vests of bright coiors. which add
greatly to their smart appearance. A
Jacket of blue has a vest of tan, one of
green has a vest of blue and one of black
looks well with a vest of scarlet. These
so-called vests are merely pieces of
cloth about three inches wide set in the
front of the jacket and extending from
collar to belt. The-braiding or military
frogs seen on most of the jackets cross
over them.
A smart visiting toilet is of beige
camel's hair, made with plain skirt and a
full bodice. The back of the bodice is
tight fitting and a simulated bolefo Jacket
of white satin spangled with jet sequins
and gold thread is outlined by q band of
sable. The blouse front is strewn with
Jet seauins, and the stock and squar
yoke are of white satin, with jet and
gold.
A p-restylwalking costume is of blue
and green checked cheviot cloth, with
rlain skirt and jacket with basque. The
collar and narrow vest are of white
cloth. braided with fancy braid of green,
blue n gold. The jacket is edged with
a narrow border of mink. which also out
lines the vest, collar and cuffs. A wide
ceinture of black satin. berdered with
mink, eneircles the waist.
A handsome wrap is of the now SO pop
ular Russian gray cloth. 1t has a point
ed yoke and fiaring collar of ermine; the
effect is particularly soft and rich, as no
black points or tails appear in the fur.
The yoke is outlined in a rich design of
gray velvet applique in emerald ard gold
cord. The 6aring collar is also lined with
embroidery. The cloak IS lined with
white satin, quilted with threads of
emerald silk, and on the lower corners of
the lining a novel idea is the use of an
applique design of emerald satin, serving
the double purpose of a handsome pocket
and forming an artistic finish when the
cloak falls open. A charming little toque
worn with this mantle is of Russian gray
velvet, with a somewhat loose crown, set
in a square brim, edged with heavy folds
Of the velvet, and a loose scarf of the vel
vet round the crown is fastened by a clus-
tel of feathers of the gray shade, these
being fastened in a clasp of brilliants set
in oxidized metal.
A gown Of rich purple cloth worn by the
fortunate wearer of this lovely cloak. has
. prettily bias folded yoke and vest of
pale lemon silk. showing under a hand
some embroidery of purple and gold braid.
Writing on the subject of "Self-Made
Crosses in the October "Woman's Home
Companion Mary r. baldwin says
'sThe woman with defective insight is
sure to mistake values-to interchange
the meanings of great and little. and to
reverse the positions of means and ends,
She fashions her own crosses, while inn
agining that Providence has ordered
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