New-York tribune., 1897-01-31
GOWN DESIGNS IN PARIS.
LIGHTWEIGHT CLOTH IS PREFERRED
FOR MOST COSTUMES

THE ADVANTAGES OF BRoADCIOTH-ONE MAIsON
MOVES IN THE INTEREST OF SHORT WOMEN.
Paris January q.
Now that there are through trains to Nice from
almost every direction, visitors longer Paris
as stoppng-over place. and the social life Of the
capital, the theatres and the shops all suffer ac-
cordingy. Although several Partisan modistes
and couturieres have established branch houses at
Nice. there many dainty toilettes being de-
signed for shipment from the capital 1t cannot be
said that these gowns differ much from the winter
models In point OF style and cut but the materials
used are so light and often so gay. and there is
such abundance OF trimming that the effect
produced Is often startlingly novel. Moreover,
there is that peculiar kind of costume known as
"Casino toilette" that season after Illus
trates the extravaganza OF the modes, combining
as 1t does the spendor Of an evening toilette with
the convenience of n daytime gown. and afford
ing opportunity for the ultra combinations Of
cloth. lace silk and furs II may frame the face
IN the most elaborate OF chokers be cut decoete
and in either case is topped with picturesque hat
But there are many more conventional frocks
for the private parties and balls given at Nice
Mention and Monte Carlo. and in these have been
developed some novel combinations and methods
OF trimming. One, with the foundation Of pink
silk. has overskrt of white tule, hand-painted
and embroidered about the bottom in a rose pat
term the flowers painted and the leaves and stems
worked with silks and chenille. yoke apron
fashion. Is outlined about the hips by crisp pink
taffeta ruchng. with pinked edges. The corsage
showing seams has the gauze smoothly drawn
over the silk simply veil its color trife and is
finished with draped belt of pink velvet fasten-
ing with large bow on one side The embroidered
and painted tule is used to form deep yoke
like empiecement, front and back, cut into points
that are finished with the pinked ,ruchng. The
short sleeves have ruin IS of gauze separated
by one OF silk with pinked edges.
A gown Of apricot satin has the skirt cut with
q short train. the whole length Of the train and
the deep border about the skirt being composed
OF a lattice-work trimming Of mock pearls and
emeralds mounted over the material the effect
on the shimmering satin being extremely beaut-
ful. The corsage has drapery Of yellow lace
which makes short butterfly sleeves. The lower
sleeves are quite tight, and made of the jeweled |
lattice-work. There is draped belt of emerald
green velvet. fastening in two knots behind from |
which fall sash ends of velvet and lace jabots
ranged down the skirt each side of the back |
panel.
FLOWER EFFECTS ON BLACK NET.
A gown of black net is laden with velvet poppies.
stiff golden wheat and foliage the flower garniture
being arranged in odd, irregular fashion, with |
jewelled g1rdle Of antique design encircng the
waist.
white null is embroidered with daisies, and
has trimming of artificial daisies on the corsage
and forming shouder-straps. An effective frock
OF blue satin has a skirt trimmed with many crisp
ruf1es of white tulle each edged by line OF black
velvet ribbon. and the draped bodice is haf-covered
by three short rufles Of white. edged in the same
manner.
Cream net mounted yellow satin makes a
charming costume for brunette 1t has short
bolero of orange velvet. slashed and edged with
lace. over the net blouse. The combination of yell
low and orange is clever, softened as it is by the
Lightweight broadcloh in soft delicate shades
makes the most charming demi- toilettes and al
though 10 keep ii perfectly fresh such gown de-
mands frequent trips TO the professional cleaners
there is nothing 10 equal its durability. There is
nothing that well displays the perfection of a
fit as this soft. firm cloth. A Princess gown is of
ecru cloth. with both skirt and bodice fastening
one side in a manner suggestive Of a long fitted .
cloak. The fastening is finished by a iabot of 1
cream lace. passing under the belt and large gold $
fligree buttons placed some distance apart. The !