The record-union., 1897-03-28

I but a scientific study. And for this
reason we continue to look to the Par
isian for our most novel, varied, and
original modes, and to copy-even II IN
some cases we modify in outline and
effect-their wonderful creations.
AS there is to be a great demand for
lawn, batiste India muslin and organ
die toilets next season, the dressmakers
are already piled with questions con-
cerning pretty materials for slips and
Innings for these goods that will take
the place if one is having several
dresses Of this sort made-of tafeta
silk, which costs more than the dress
material itself. An economical French
woman would dispense with num-
Der of these gowns and have two made
up over silk Innings: or a white or PINK
princess slip is another effective mode
of economy, the Slip to be worn in turn
under each of a number Of transparent
gowns. Pink is a good choice, as it
would look charming under, for in
stance, white organdie figured with
pink flowers and leaves a pink ba-
tiste pale blue India muslin sprin-
brocaded with small Marie Antoirette
designs. Under sheer textiles a very
beautifully tinted material is frequent
ly used by the dressmakers, called dau-
phine. This is simply new name for
corded lawn of firm quality, and the
fine reps give the material a slight
stiffness and body and make it very
desirable fabric for underskirts and
slips.
Upon some imported gowns for very
special wear appear skirts with deep
hip y0kes, fastened the designers only
knows where. The yoke has the effect
of simply encircling the hips without
break, or a seam showing, but it is,
of course, hooked invisibly A very
elegant model of darkest green repped
silk, with a very lustrous finish, has a
deep sldrt-yoke of Persian satin bro
cade, showing a blending of exquisite
Oriental colorings. The bodice is of
the corded silk, with an indescribable
decoration combining the silk with the
brocade, a sIashed effect predominating
both front and back. The Florentine
sleeves also show a similar deft and
work of trained artistic Partisan. The
green skirt is finished simply with a
deep hem and is unlined, but en- suite
is a CRED petticoat of plain Lyons taf-
feta silk made of one Of the colors in
the brocade and trimmed with one wide
flounce, with vine embroidery at the
hem in exquisite shades of PALE me-
dunn and darkest green.
Just at present the sleeve question is
one of absorbing interest to all woman
kind, and to the home dressmaker it is
more or less of a difficulty unless she is
properly enlightened.
OF course, everybody recognizes the
fact that the large sleeve is a thing of
the past, and that a gown is no longer
really stylish that is encumbered with
them. 1t is an easy matter, however,
to cut them over if one only under
stands how, and pattern is not needed
in many cases. With the sleeves made
smaller a last years gown takes a new
| lease Of life and comes out fresh and
smart, for in other ways gowns have
not changed in any striking manner
The new small sleeves are so varied
that all tastes can easily be pleased
and one has fine opportunity to use up
scraps of silk, velvet and ribbon, for
many of the more fancy models have a
combination Of materials in their make
up.
Very little stifening is used, and it is
confined entirely to the top of the puff
straight piece of stiffening three
inches long being gathered into the
armsiZe along with the sleeve; this sets
out sufficiently to keep the puff from
dropping.
Very stylish and becoming gowns of
gray ana white wool are shown by
various leading importers. They are
made variously of serge, mofair doub-
le-wrap cashmere, canvas goods, cam
els hair, ladies' cloth, basket patterned
grenadine. and Sultana cloth. and ali
are made over silk foundations. slips
or Innings.
There is a perfect furore for accor-
deon-pleated rufiles for the neck, bodice
and sleeves. and also for the entire dec
Grafton of evening toilets.