The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1897-06-20

The new bell skirt is mucn used for
summer gowns of silk, cotton ana Wool
materials. 1t is cut in three pieces-a
front gore and one bell breadth each
side of this gore which is very wide, ana
has a bias seam down the back. Ihe
skirt measures about four and One-halt
wards at its greatest circumference, ana
it can be used as a drop skirt under a
draped skirt or overdress. All the Varl-
GUS French models fit smoothly around
the hips. the fuIlness at the back either
gathered or Dleated in compact form,
and with lust an easy graceful flare
around the lower portion of the skirt.
For the summer are new semi-trans-
parent materials for mourning gowns
initiating India textiles in their pat
terms, also handsome foulards ana emma
silks, grenadines, and Examines IN plack
and white effects for light mourning
soft liberty silks with black grounds
sprinkled with various delicate white
devices and white grounds with black
bars. vine stripes and all-over designs
and add geometrical figures. Whlte
and black batistes, challies and French
organizes follow very closely the newest
handsomest patterns in summer silks.
Most of the shirt waists designed Tor
general wear are finished with pure
white linen collars and cuffs, but there
are not a few women who cannot wear
these stiff1y starched additions, and it is
an easy matter to remove these ADJUST
able articles, and to substitute IN their
place the pretty and becoming httle
Paquin points that are sold by the
dozen, more or less, in all the fancy dry
goods houses. There are also waists OF
undressed China silk with turn-doWn
collars, the pleated front fastened with
small pearl studs, and soft-hnlshed
striped and dotted percale, chambray,
dimity, zephyr goods, and fine French
fannels briar-stitched and finished with
a ribbon stock and bow. The smart lit
tie Etons to be worn with these waists
are variously priced according to the
material and amount of elaboration be-
slowed upon them.
To those who find the Elton or bolero
Jacket becoming, this little shape can be
utilized in cutting over coat or basque
bodice that one has tired of or that has
become slightly worn below the waist
and on the fronts The basque portion
may be cut off and the hooked front also
removed, leaving enough only for the
Elton fronts. If these are at all solled,
they may be quickly cleaned with naph-
tina, and then covered with revers-fronts
Joined to a square collar that falls over
the shoulders in the back. The points OF
the revers may reach to the extreme
edge of the jacket-front, or end some
inches above the waistline.
Very beautiful black lace insertions,
varying from one to four inches in
width, are used with elegant effect on
summer toilets of silk or diaphanous
textiles. Pleated ruches of black NOUS
seline de sole finish the skirt hem and
decorate the neck of the bodice.
Princesse dresses and princesse effects
prevail among fashionable summer
,oilets, but the new models are so
hanged by their bolero fronts, surplice
lraperies, odd revers and large pictur-
asuue collars, as to be hardly recog-
nizable. On not few of these gowns
the bodice portion is cut low in the
neck and this, when desired, is made
high in effect by the addition of a tucked
guimpe, the tucks alternating with rows
of lace insertion. This guimpe or yoke
is arranged to veil or wholly cover the
open portion. The guimpe is the easiest
method of adjustment, as it is fastened
to an invisible very thin silk corset
cover that is put on before the dress is.
If the yoke is preferred, it is adjusted
after the gown is fastened. Wide lace is
added to the extreme edge of the entire
yoke, front and back. When completed,
the yoke is hooked invisibly to the top
of the low-cut bodice of the princesse
dress. On slender figures a guimpe
and sleeve-puffs of ACCORDION pleated
silk muslin is a cool and pretty arrange
ment.
Many of the hot-weather gowns are
made with surplice bodies most grace
fully arranged. The skirts are gar
nished with ruches, frilling, flounces,
ribbon in rows or fancy devices, accor-
dion pleatings, and lace edgings and
insertions put on in every manner that
modern taste and ingenuity can de-
wise.
Creamy Indian null waists for dressy
afternoon wear viii in many instances
take the place of white chiffon for
blouses and surplice waists this sum-
mer, for the reason that while India
null has all the soft transparent effect
of chiffon, it is very much more dur
able. The new white null waists from
Paris follow the conventional lines of
the fascinating models of silk and Lib
erty silk. but they can be fashioned by
various deft modistes in a pretty and
simple style suggested by each indi-
vidua1 wearer. A very pretty model
from Paris of exquisitely fine, sheer
null is laid in tiny tucks, with rows
of lace insertion alternating, then gath
cred full about the neck into folded
satin collar. Elegant lace caps fall
over the short sleeve-puffs. and the
insertion shows on the closely-fitted
sleeve from wrist TO puff. This waist
has separate short sleeve under bod