The San Francisco call., 1897-08-15

will be a modern hustle that will answer
Dame Fashions call at the present stage
of the game. There is new style of bus
lie that is made IL sections. The hip
pieces are cut and padded to fit the nat
ural figure. And these p-to-date affairs
are designed to go under instead of over
the corset, which means in turn that there
mu be modern corsets instructed, with
adjustable hip pieces. In short, to use the
satisfied remark of a critical New York
modiste 1.-THE hustle which we are going
TO wear now will be Just sufficient to give
an artistic effect and keep the skirt from
sagging in the back which may the
gods bring to pass
The Russian blouse is to be much worn
during the late summer season. One
made for dressy occasions is OF white
cashmere, to be worn over a skirt of the
the same. The coat part has long inser-
tions of guipure lace, deep cream in color,
let in at intervals all round, and lined
with pale-green glace silk which shows
through. The collar has similar deeora-
tions, and in front is pretty lace iabot
over pale-green chiffon. Then there is
basque OF long tabs all finished with lines
af lace insertion. The belt is of green
lizard skin, with buckle of green enamel
studded with small single Partisan dia-
monds.
Lace insertion is very widely used in
various ways, and now appears on skirts
as we'll as bodices and on silk and WOODEN
goods as we'll as the lighter fabrics. When
used on skirts the lace is Let into the
iaI in, in sartiOus fropo hon, n
waist, or else is used as the heading OF
hounce. For bodice decoration the inser-
ton is used in lengthwise st ripes down
the center of a waist, and as a scroll on
either side. Insertions al inch wide are
also formulated into scrolls and bows and
laid on muslins, while lace braid treated
in the same way makes most effective
trimmings. A very handsome bodice re-
Gently seen had the yoke striped with lace,
and the sleeves, which were close fitting,
were made entirely of lace. This would
seem to be coming into general use, as l
have seen quite mum ber OF late.
There is no question but that the bal
loon and even the leg OF mutton sleeves
will fade away. Flat sleeves are unques-
tionablY coming into fashion. A modiste
Just from Paris told me a day or two ago
that the latest creations OF the best dress
makers over there show scarcely any fult-
ness at all in the shoulders of the dresses
Therefore, it is not too much to say that
another season will see US practically back
to the old style OF tight sleeves. Just at
present the most popular sleeve is that
which has little globu,ar putting at the
top and is plain from there to the wrist.
This putting may be provided by the
sleeve itself, or by an additional piece
forming short extra sleeve. Another
way is 10 have it plain. except for few
pieats set in the shoulder, which style
may have an epaulette or not as one
pleases. Still another style is cut and
pleated so as to give the effect OF double
puff across the top of the arm, sometimes
very little fullness being used, and some
times good deal, the sleeve itself being
loose above The elbow.
All the sleeves mentioned may be in
single piece, though those with circular
putting are generally cut in two. Sleeves
running in tucks across or gathered
lengthwise in tiny puffs and mounted on
tight-fittlng Innings are very fashionable
just now, as they suit thin fabrics particu-
Iarly we'll, but there is decided tendency
10 prefer palmer forms III the very latest
productions. Dressmakers continue to
cut sleeves fully long, but the points COM
ing down over the hands are not Sc IN so
frequently as of late. Lace ruffies, how
ever, concealng portion of the hand, are
seen on most OF the smart tollettes. A
very small minority OF garden party cos
urOrp IN a OpnaSions latalu
have elbow rather wide aud finished with
deep lace ruffles, but this sort of sleeve is
generally reserved for house dresses and
teagowns. might add, too, that many
low evening dresses have quite long
sleeves. jacket and coat sleeves will, of
course be diminished in width as dress
sleeves grow smaller. but 10 accom- modate
the inside sleeve certain amount of
bread III at the top is necessary. There
fore the new coats and Jackets which We
will begin 10 think of presently will con-
tinue to be mounted in pleats, though
shallow and reduced in number. Hang
ing sleeves, reaching TO the elbow, will be
adapted to some of the more fanciful
jackets.
A genuine novelty in gloves is novelty
indeed, but mere Is one 4uey ConSISb
of white, black or cream suede fas-
tening with four buttons on the
suede portion and scalloped at the
edges. But 10 the kid are attached arm
lets beautifully embroidered in silk cord
net, the designs being applique butterflies
in the kid ornamentally outlined with the
cord. The net is worked as scallop at
the top and drawn in to the size of the
arm with satin ribbon. The black dis
plays cream EN- broidery, and they are
most ornamental. The junction Of the
net and the kid is defined with silk
cable repeated on the back OF the hand,
and an additional button to fasten the
wrist is introduced on the lace.
A strikingly original use OF the en-
proidered vest made the SUCCESS OF
biscuit colored linen gown / saw the other
day. The skirt was wrought round the
hem with tall tapering sprays OF white
braiding and cording. the material being
sufficiently heavy to hang well and to
show the em broldery to good advantage.
A short tight-ftting coat was drawn down
closely into the waist at the back and also