The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-07-12
COSMOPOLITAN Ell PASO
A TOWN THAT DELIGHTED THE SOUL
OF THE LATE JAY GOULD.
Its PecuIiarities, and Those of the
Mexican City Across the River
Legend of the Lost Mime.



of Texas, over deserts of sand intending
with no vegetation save the dwarfed sage
bush, the mosquito and the cactus, and no
animal life save the mastodon of 1t all,
the jack rabbit Out of this barren waste
the train steams into a city of palms and
oleanders. We pass through the Mexican
quarters cross broad canals and at last
come to stop before one of the largest
and best equipped depots of western Texas.
To the south of the city flows the Rio
Grande, and the dreamy Mexicans have
gathered many a melancholy song from the
murmur of its waters. In the distance tow
er the mountains through whose fast
ness goes the trail-Paso del Norte-from
which the city receives its name Ell Paso
is cosmopolitan, and the stranger alone is
curious. Jay Gould, in 1892. discovered this.
In Ell Paso, as in no other place, he was
able to leave his private car, and, inasmuch
as his identity was concerned, to become
lost among its citizens. People did not
consider him a sight worthy a passing
glance, and no one made remarks concern
ing him. 1t was the one admirable charac-
teristic of the city that pleased the mill
lionaire most and his departure was de-
layed, that he might enjoy it.
El Paso was at one time among the wild
est and most lawless towns of western
Texas, but to-day the keenest observer will
fail to detect the slightest hint of this.
There is settled air of industry about it
calmness that not only surprises the visit
or, but skaters as we'll all the preconceived
notions he may have gained from a perusal
of Western novels. To the introduction of
Eastern capital more than anything else
can this change be attributed. The entire
city wears the independent air that is so
peculia1 to Western cities. It's citizens are
independent and utterly devoid of the GU
riosity of the Fastener. In the city proper
are to be found not only Americans, but lit
tie communities of Japanese, Chinese Mex
icans Indians and the typical Southern ne
gro who yet cringes and quakes at the
hardened glance of the whites. 1t Is not
only city of nationalities, but it is also
city OF the South and of the West. In
the parks will be found the date palm and
the orange growing side by side with the
cactus. Upon the street can be seen the
Southern planter and at his side appears
Western miner.
The entire city Is thoroughly irrigated by
a public system that is unsurpassed. When
it is considered that the water thus con-
Quoted through the streets is absolutely in
shade and form a shield against the sand
storms that occasionally sweep over the
city, all wonder that the bitches appear so
free from debris is satisfied The Rio
Grande, which recently oVerf1owed its
banks has left no sign behind of it's de-
Vastatton 1t has returned to it's natural
channels and sings along its course to the
oVerhangng trees a song of tradition of
Aztec and mound builder, of savagery and
civilization of to-day. Old canal beds dug
centuries ago by race lost forever con-
nected with the modern bitches and water
again runs over their courses. On every
hand are to be found the remains of this
prehistoric race. Every curio shop displays
pottery taken from the excavations, uten-
sils of all kinds standing forth in the pres
ent as mute witnesses to us of the ingenuity
and civilization of this forgotten race. They
titled the same valley, they worked the
appearing in the dim distance of centuries
ago, leaving only their rude finger marks
as evidence of their being.
ON THE MEXICAN SIDE.
Across the river lies the little Mexican
city of Jaurez. 1t is reached by mule cars
with Mexican drivers that to every word of
English answer with the invariable mo
sabe, signor, no sabe." A stranger has
poor time indeed in Ell raso and near about
if he is unfamiliar with Spanish. bridge
spans the river, and at the north end stands
the Mexican custom house, while at the
south end is Uncle Sans official station.
When the car approaches the bridge from
the north il is stopped and boarded by the
Mexican official. who investigates the bun
dies of the passengers in search of dutiable
goods. He is dressed in the true Mexican
STYLE and protruding from beneath the red
jacket is the barrel of a very large and
Notwithstanding revolver. Upon the Mexican
side a similar investigation is made by the
United States official, and seldom indeed
do dutiable articles escape the sharp eyes
of this officer.
AS the river is crossed Mexicans of
kIA nln hn
bathing in puris naturalibus along the
banks of the Rio Grande, and further on
when more solid land is reached can be
seen the adobe huts Of these bathers.
Usually one will see a family of ten or
twelve crowded about the door and it is
by no means unusual to behold three gener
ations living in the same adobe, while near
by, waiting to be laughed at stoically
stand blinking as many generations of the
hale the smoke of their cigarettes and
send it calmly curling above their heads
while they dream the day dreams that are
children of the Spanish blood: Over every
door is nailed horseshoe, for the Next
can is a superstitious being and believes
firmly in the luck it brings.
blacklist color Among these is Ell Sub
teraneo. notorious for the record given 1t
by Harden a Texas desperate. Here he
lured unsuspecting Mexicans, shot them
down in cold blood and robbed their bodies
Harden had a record of not less than thirty
of such murders and the man who asSas-
sinated this desperate had himself a record
of twelve 1t is strange incident that
not a month later HardenS slayer was
killed by Il man who. only a fortnight ago
met his fate in the same spot where Harden
fell
Those who visit Juarez find themselves
as much in Mexico as though they were
upon the streets of the capital. A pro-
gressive Yankee introduced the phono-
graph in Juarez The MeXicans had never
heard the talking instrument and their
surprise knew no bounds. Gathered about
the mysterious box listening to the Spanish
songs they would exclaim. Los Ameri-
canos saben mas que dos" and wonder
would be written on their swarthy faces
Mexicans in their national dress with it's
gaudy trimmings, on their heads the tall
sombreros, in their mouths the constant
cigarette lounge upon the street corners
that are SO peculiar to the Spanard. The
women, for the most part remain indoors
during the hotter portions of the day, but
at night appear upon the streets dressed
in the flaring garments of red and scarlet
which they make even more brilliant in
colored beads.
THE OLD CATHEDRAL.
No foreigner entering Juarez for the first
time fails to visit the old cathedral that
stands upon the principal square. 1t is the
Mecca of his searches; about it are gath
cred the traditions and history of 400 years,
the history of wars, the traditions of other
centuries 1t is the first introduction to
ancient Mexico, to Aztec and 10 Spaniard.
People from Maine to California have con-
tributed to the funds for the maintenance
of the church." And the padre himself and
his chubby faced boy have received many a
liberal ''tin" from Americas most illus