The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1897-08-28


VIENNA, Austria, Aug. lS.-Slnce my
last letter from Venice we have travel
led over quite an extent of territory,
have crossed the countries of switzer-
land and Germany, and are now COM
sortably located for a short stay in
Vienna, one of the most beautiful cities
of the world, and one of the large cap
itals. It has a population of one mill
ion, three hundred and sixty-hve thou
sand
From Venice we went to Milan, the
largest and most active city In Italy 1t
Is a prosperous place and seemed to us
more like a arst class American city
than any we have yet visited. The cell
ebrated cathedral OF Milan is certainly
most beautiful. The windows could not
be surpassed in beauty and richness
counted one hundred and sixty distinct
figures in one OF the windows. Mrs,
Scott and / were fortunate enough TO
be in the cathedral while high mass
was celebrated. never in my life
heard such solemn and beautiful music
as rolled out from the big organ. In
Milan we also saw the original paint
ing OF 1.-THE Last supper" the one you
see so many copies and reprints from,
In which Judas has upset the salt eel
lar. II was quite dim In places, for 1t
was painted by Leonardo de Vinei on
the wall of a dining room In a convent,
In 1896, so this picture Is Just as old as
America.
From Milan we came TO Como and
took the boat up Lake Como to town
called Menaggio. where was spent the
sabbath. II is a beautiful place and a
lovely lake. From Menaggio we cross
ed over low range OF the Alps and
came to another one OF the beautiful
Italian lakes. Lugano, on which we
took boat ride as far as the town OF
Lugano, where we found the train that
would take us over the Alps into SwftE-
erland. through the famous St Gothatd
Tunnel, the longest one in the world,
over nine miles and quarter. This
was delightful trip, over piece OF
railroad work that required the high
est engineering skill probably ever ex-
erted. The views were magnificent 1
could not help thinking OF Napoleon's
adventures in this part OF the world.
and OF the difficulties he must have ov-
ercome when he crossed the Alps.
When we emerged from ST. Gothard
tunnel we were In Switzerland and the
country showed much more prosperity
and thrift. The land was cultivated,
every inch OF 1t, even clear up to the
mountain tops OF snow. We took a
steamer at Fluellen. at the end OF Lake
Lucerne and steamed down that oeauti-
full sheet of water TO the town OF the
same name, where we met more Amer
leans than we had yet seen since land
Ing on foreign shore.
Lucerne is not a very interesting city.
but / was much entertained by TWO OF
the sights, which are quite close TO-
qether the Lion OF Lucerne and the
GIncter Gardens. The Lion is the most
wonderful and impressive piece or
sculpture / ever saw. II represents
dying lion, twenty-elght feet long.
transflxod with broken spear, and ly-
ing in a large grotto. The grotto and
lion are carved out OF the natural lime
stone rock. and down below In front Is
little pool OF crystal water, Into which
small stream flows over the rock
which is covered with vines and creep
ers, This work was done In 1921 to the
memory OF twenty-six officers and sew
en- hundred and sixty soldiers OF the
Swiss Guard, who fell in defense OF the
Palace of the Tullleries In 1872. the
other interesting thing in Lucerneisthe
GLACIER Gardens, the entrance being
lust near the Lion. This place was
discovered about twenty years ago,and
IS n wonderful and curious example OF
the action OF water and ice on the stones
and boulders of the glacial period.
with Or. Hildreth, of Cambridge,
Massachusetts, Mrs. Scott and went
UP the lake and took a conveyance up
into the mountains, where we visited
a village and saw something OF the
people and their customs. j shall not
order Swiss cheese hereafter as l
found much to my surprise, that the
Swiss are not cleanly people. They
store their hay and grain In the loft,
and live In n part OF the same house
where their COWS are stabbed, and they
seemed generally slovenlY and dirty
They carry a peculiar basket with
straps on II, that they put their arms
through like straps on an army KNAPP
sack, and half circle OF wood that flts
above the hips and rests on Them and
In this basket they carry down their
products to market and carry back ma
nure for fertllizing In the self same bas-
kets.
From Lucerne we travelled 10 Zurich
and we found Il very active, lively
town, and has the great advantage OF a
splendid water power which Is largely
used for manufacturing purposes From
Zurich wo crossed into Germany and
before long were in tho old Bavarlan
capital of Munich. was disappointed
in this old city and really did not see n
good thing in the place. 1 did not even
like the beer II was too sweet, md
was not so good as our own Rcymann
or Schmulbach beer The city, like all
other European cities, is ovcrrun with
soldiers and priests. and the rulers are
taking the life blood out Of the people
by taxation 20 support their armies.
From Munich we cumc to & little city
called Linz, In Austria, on the Danube
river. Linz Ia about the size OF Wheel
ing, and seemed to be an interesting
place. Here we took the boat for vlcn-
ma, and to say was disappointed In
the Beautiful Blue Danube" would be