The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-09-26
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE TIGHT SLEEVE AND RUSSIAN
BLOUSE FEATURES OF FASHION.
What the College Girl Needs for Her
COmfOrt-Respect for Age to Be
Displayed with Care.

Subdued colors among autumn fabrics in
monochromes and also in the display of
figured materials were promised, but a
glance at the exhibits this week at all the
high-class importing houses shows an array
of dress goods that are positively startling
in their color mixtures and brilliant effects.
says a writer in the New York Post.
These effects are pre-eminently gorgeous
among the checked and plaided materials.
The exquisite tinrs in gray in cloth, in
soft, beautiful woods like drap d etc or silky
India cashmere, in corded silk, silk and
wool mixtures and a host of fancy weaves
are a great temptation. 1t is true that in
very many cases these tints are as trying
as they are tempting, but color relief, or
often the addition of cream white Access
SORES to the bodice, will work wonderful
change in its effect upon the wearer.
The double skirt is not becoming to many
women. 1t shortens in appearance figure
to which every inch is distinct advantage,
and, worn by taller woman, one gets at
first sight the impression of school girl
who has outgrown her petticoats. A skirt
that has a second edition, which reaches to
just below or is on line with the knees
will prove decidedly more becoming, if
double skirts are to become general
We might reasonably assume that bodices
would become less ornate as skirts grew
more elaborate, but as yet there has been
no such sign, except, of course, the dimi-
mutton of the sleeves, which bid fair to be-
come as meager in their proportions as
they were many years ago We NAV reach
close-coat shapes wholly unadorned by next
spring, perhaps, but that all decorations on
the the tops OF sleeves are to be quite diminu-
1--WE seems to be inevitable. All the most
1asnlonabfe out-of-door garments are made
with sleeves of extremely MODE ate size, that
decidedly do not allow for dress sleeves that
are the least elaborate. Still there are
some concessions at the tops in the way of
little crescent-shaped puffs decorated cans
ana points, triple frills, bound or lined with
a contrasting color, ETC., and these mitigate
IN no small degree the ultra-severity of a
style that is like mousquetaire glove with
nothing to relieve its stiff outlining contour
= style most trying to an arm either too
thln or TOO plump
Jacket shapes basque bodices. blouses
round waists and pointed corsages of black
satin, fallle, armure royal or brocade will
all be worn this and next season. draped in
various ways, with nets and laces of every
pattern imaginable Also, light textured
grenadines and CLEANLINESS. Every effect will
be IN great favor in black over some heavier
silk or satin material. Point d esprit Cham
lilly, fine limitations of Venetian and point
lace will be highly favored in black nets and
edgingS. insertions and founcings are
displayed in matching patterns. The Rus
sian blouse blossoms out triumphantlv in
this style and next to black velvet a hand
some silk net over satin or MORE is the
most elegant creation in this type of gar
ment. Another pretty and fashionable mod
el has round yoke back and front, and be-
low the yoke, in the back, the figure is
closely defined, although neither seams nor
forms are visible. In front, below the yoke
which fastens on the left shoulder, the waist
material drops slightly in blouse form. A
piping of satin ard a frill of lace finish the
edge OF the bodice where it laps on the
ems invisibly under an odd satin-piped plas-
tron than starts from the collar band. Three
little satin-piped frills finish the sleeve tops.
ANY broadening effect across the shoulders
which can be produced by epaulettes wing
points cut in one with the jacket or pleated
or circular frills, are the height of fash
ION, these diplomatic substitutes being
made great use of by the modistes in lieu
of the hugh sleeve puffs which have finally
vanished altogether