Omaha daily bee., 1897-05-30
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81 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. -
81 z
90" ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

| when voyaging, as a protection against
drafts that penetrate even TO ones bed.
These are cut blouse shape, too, but there is
no tickling, tearing lace and bowknots- about
them. The low cut neck and straight fronts
as we'll as long sleeve ends, are bound fiat
with bright ribbon. and a pocket In one side
holds the wearer's handkerchief. In adj
ditiOn to these are outing flannel and wool
grenadine bedgowns, that slip over the cot
ton or linen nightdrees, and still more allur-
ing heavy mixed silk and wool crepe bath
robes. The last mentioned are cut like those
men wear, and are made of this rather eX-
ponslve crepe because ii is the only material
that folds into the very smallest compass
for packing, and yet is nearly as warm as
flannel.
On board ship and on trains they are a
JOY to womankind, for on making a way to
the bath or dressing room the long folds,
girded at the waist by a ribbon, cover one
fully, a hood draws up over towseled. hair,
and into pockets in the skirts can be slowed
soap case, comb and brush, sponges, etc,
that must be carried down the car aisle
otherwise awkwardly in ones hands. But
the virtue OF this new bathrobe is not fully
demonstrated until it is folded into a parcel
about one-third the size of an ordinary fan
mel wrapper, and so entities the owner to
double the usual space in her handbag.
MUSLIN TEA GOWNS.
II the term full-dress ~negligee is possible,
then the newest and beautifulest of the tea
/ N'Ai bs"Si nat u
they are all of swiss muslin and lace, or of
silk, glorified with jeweled embroidery, 1t Is
not too much to say that they quite %outrival
any Of the summer gowns yet seen in the
elaborateness of their design and glories of
their decoration. The white swiss tea gown
has come and conquered every woman who
is at home to anybody after 3 o'clock of a
hot afternoon. She wears it cut out in a
small square at the throat, training a little
behind, and depending for decoration wholly
on flounces OF muslin and on edgings of lace,
real valenciennes II she can afford 1t. very
narrow, and whipped on to miles of wide and
narrow ruf1ing.
The smartest of smart muslin tea gowns
sent to a modish inhabitant of Newport was
white over white muslin petticoats, but the
three deep flounces at the foot, with head
ings and the narrow ones on the body, that
were set on to simulate a rufiled bolero, were
edged with black valenclennes just one
fourth of an inch wide. At every nook and
corner were set bows that looked like small
chryeanthemums, made Of the black, mar
rowest French tafeta ribbon, and a tiny
cap with black bows went with it. The
owner Of the gown was not in mourning, but
she follows the prevailing notion that by
touching white with black an air of daintier
ccolness is secured. Though a most crush
able ephemeral creation, this cost a matter
| OF S75, while some of those decorated with
wider white lace come al a larger figure.
The explanation of their makers Is that
tho use of real lace enhances the price,
though just as charming a suit could be had,
using imitation lace, at a fourth of the price
mentioned. Some of these tea gowns are
worn over slips of white taffeta silk and some
Of them have really long trains and the
sleeves to the elbow always, or in many
cases sleeves are lacking entirely, the arm
holes being filled in with straight outstand-
ing muslin rufles. like embryo wings.
From the costly simplicity of muslin to the
frankly displayed elegances of embroidered
tea robes, the women at this moment make
easy transition and for anything like an
afternoon function at home, an almost
royalty beautiful tea gown Is considered in
perfect order. From vatican draperies the
tendency is markedly toward Greek grace
fulness in disposing folds, and for this rea-
son crepe de chine is a goods in great favor.
A sketch given shows how the draperies are
bestowed in strictly classical fashion, with
modern liberties in decoration. Here is
white crepe with a trained under rope and a
peplus falling over that, its edges every
where trimmed with a border of gold skele-
ton embroidery on a foundation Of chiffon.
Upon the bust falls a Greek plestron of white
silk, heavily worked in gold sequins, thread
and little turquoise. while a gold and tur-
quoise girdle gathers in the gowns full
ness :, little at the waist line.
Just as splendid in effect is a mourning
tea gown, made for Mrs. of
black crepe and trimmed about the edges
OF the Greek overdress, on the bust and at
the waist line, with dull Jet and imitation
ash and white pearls, for these last come
under the head of mourning gems. From
Paris have come along with these Greek
gowns an odd combination Of the Greek and
empire fashions. That is, over an under
dress cut or exactly after the
model Of gowns worn by the Empress
Josephine, a peplus is laid. The edges of
the peplus and the front OF the empire robe
arc richly embroidered in sequins, false
stones and bullion thread, and the arms are
bare. while the neck Is opened square and
rather low in front Oply. Then tO tOu off
this combination. a Nine. de Stael nrrban is
assumed. all Of white tulle, with a lcoquet-
fish knot of roses or tinted ostrich tips to
one side. NINA FITCH.