Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-05-22
A French Conception Of a Modified
Tailor-Made Toilet.
WOMEN WHOSTUDY PHYSICAL CULTURE
Show Its Good Effects in Their
Improved Figures.
PONGEE FOR SUMNER WEAR
Copyright. 1897, by VIM. DuBois.)


Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS, May 10, 1897.
The Parisenne rarely confines herself to
the strictly tailor-made costume; it does
not suit her petite figure, which requires
some Misunderstanding more to set off
her individuality-than the severe lines of
the English tailor-made gown. Our de-
sign above shows our conception of a mod
flied tdilor-made toilet. 1t is to be made
of silver gray cashmere. The skirt shows
a new departure in the shape of a slightly
draped front gore-cashmere lending itself
admirably to draperies-while the sides fit
closely and the back is gathered in deep
folds. The cashmere, of course, is cut as
a drop skirt over foundation skirt of sill
yer gray taffeta. The loose blouse bodice
Is gathered in at the waist by novel
pointed girdle of darker gray silk, closing
at one side, and opens in front over a very
narrow white silk vest, draped by a fall
of real lace, which issues from a large
white silk ribbon bow at the throat. The
tight sleeve is surmounted by a full Shout
der pun. and has hounce of lace at the
waist. A graceful trimming consists of
rows of narrow red. gold. silver and green
braid edging the skirt and sleeves and
forming a clover-leaf pattern on the Zouave
jacket and big, flaring collar.
The return of the tailor-made suit and
the rage for the bicycle has ignited new
ambitions in the hearts of female fashion,
ables throughout the continent. Delighted
with the freedom and the invigorating ex-
ercise which the wheel has given her, she
aims at further development through
studying physical culture made popular by
"Detsarte as the aesthetic division of
complete educational gymnastics COM
prised in the Swedish system. Francois
DelSarte created his famous philosophy of
expression through the instrument of the
" T inc OF, 60
benefit and develop not merely the muscles
but even the vital organs through his sys-
tenn Of scientific kinesiology.
Good Effects of Exercise.
We note with pleasure the changes
brought about by such exercises; they ex-
pand the chest and diminish the waist and
give a graceful and erect carriage to the
body. We costumers are often accused of
distorting the female figure. In our de-
Tense be 1t said that we enjoy nothing bet
ter than to fit our creations over a figure
which has attained such natural perfec-
tons, and We consider that our gowns are
never displayed to better advantage than
on a woman who takes sufficient interest
In a graceful poise and artistic motions to
overcome inherent Incidence and put vi
vacity and life into her poses. Madame
Bernhardt is the greatest living demon
strator of these principles of aes -hetic ex-
preston through perfectly trained body
some artistic reason.
Few women can dispense with corsets
for with close-fitting bodice. a corset is
a necessity, but it should be made to fit
the BODY, and should be of firm yet pl:aole
materials. The time is fortunately ever
when the body of the elegante was pressed
into iron vlses, as she stood with arms up
lifted high above her head, to narrow the
muscles. while she laced up By her
maid. Was it astonishing under such cir
cumStanceS that our Observation-Disclosures
tainted at the slightest exerIioa and that
following generations have had to suffer
Ia consequence But at last the curse has
been removed, and the woman of today is
healthy and wholesome, and breathes cas-
lily In low corsets. which give full expanse
70 the lungs and diaphragm.
Made for Comfort.
All underwear also Is made with 2 y;cyv
10 comfort. as well beauty. and the
dainty lingerie of today compares favor
ably with the heavy clumsy linen garments
which were formerly worn. Fine woolens.
Silks and lace are the materials emploved
Many women hesitate to buy or make
Ep silk underclothes, on account of the ex
pense involved. but IL one considers that
\ good silk or ponSee set of underwear
VIII outlast two cotton ones ard besides
needs less trimming, and Is more easily
Numbered, Il will be found that the differ
snce In cost is but small. Pongee once
30 popular FOR summer gowns, is particu-
iarly adapted for cool and pretty summer
lingerie, lounging robes and neglige lack
cts. A model for the last named is made