The herald., 1897-08-29

New York, Aug. 1S.-As midsummer
passes insensibly into late summer, the
haze of August blurring the transition,
the pale blues, the rose tints and the
mauves that have filled the prospect
tdSr- auouc uIIv' SJiueIIUu sers wen
into blossom. The crimsons and scar
lets that are due regularly six weeks
before the leaves turn are already in
evidence in the shape of smart red cloth
jacket bodices to be slipped over thin
dresses when warm day cools towards
night, like the waning of summer re-
sort Irritation. White does not cease to
be desirable as summer approaches its
close, but, instead of delicate peach
tints and pale watery green's, china
blue, black, gold, grass green and cher
ry are attracted to it as it's accessories.
There are no very radical changes in
cut or trimming to be noted in the first
dresses for early autumn, but rather
an elaboration of already current ideas.
Gold tinsel is covering a multitude of
sins, but it's charity in that respect
could have been predicted from the first
announcements of the jubilee pro-
gramme in London. The visit of East
ern potentates to the West leaves be-
hind always a trail of dressmakers'
jewelry and gold. Braiding is very
much to the fore for the decoration of
cloth dresses, especially braiding in a
coarse silk cord, copied from last GEN.
tury materials and forming a design
completely round the skirt, often of
great complexity.
The newest hats are worn well back
upon the head, to show the hair, and
contrast boldly in this respect with the
early summer headgear tilted over the
eyes. Bonnets for early autumn have
bell crowns and are trimmed about the
brim with lace or embroidery. An erect
plume of feathers on one side balances
bows on the other. Taffeta ribbon Is
still pre-eminent and the finger-width
is enough for bow. For seaside OF
country wear in late August or Septem-
ber the Panama hat is driving the sail
or off the field. Flowers or half-hand-
kerchiefs of bright silk furnish the
trimming. The sailor hat, so far as il
survives, has to abandon it's stiff de-
corum and the severe simplicity Of its
plain ribbon band. It's crown, as meta
morphosed, is lost under puffings OF
chiffon or dotted net and it's brim is
laden with hollyhocks or poppies. Sep.
tember millinery runs good deal tt
Leghorns. An extremely quaint anc
picturesque hat that 1 saw yesterday
was large Leghorn twined up in the
back with long streamers of black vel
vet to loop under the chin. Spikes o.
scarlet cardinal flowers with greer
| leaves stuck out from the curves of thu
plant brim and were laid about tht
crown.
| Some very pretty late summer frock'
appeared at an out-of-doors fete few
days ago at Southampton, Long Island
| A red and white striped silk was mos
effective. The ground was white will
narrow perpendicular bars of crimson
The skirt was cut up on the left side Il
show a simulated underskirt covered
with narrow white glace frills. Their
was a bolero bodice with horizontal.
friiled white glace front and revers
crimson. The frllings were carried
across the back and were arranged u
give the usual look of width at tn
shoulders. Perfectly plain coat sleeve
were used, with crimson and whit
silk vest and high lace collar. The ma
was a large. soft white straw trimmed
with black ostrich plumes. The paraso
of crimson and white silk. like the skir'
was edged with black and white lac
frills.
Equally noticeable was china-blu
and white muslin in half inch stripe