New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-03-07
COUTURE STYLES IN PARIS
THE PoMPADoUR is THE BASIS OF MOST
HAIRDRESsINd THERE.
FALSE CURLs MUCH woRN-soME GOWNS
WORTHY OF ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS SEEN
on THE STAGE THAT ATTRACT
ATTENTION.

Paris. February e.
The halrdresser Leroy supposed TO be an
all-powerful parsonage during the Gays OF .he i''u
Empire. although the photographs OF the oo"'
beauties Of that time show an arrangement "a
couture that appears simple in tho extreme NJ
ono hs;rdresser In Paris to-day can be said 10 DC
pre-eminent but there dozen whose services
are always In demand. for We nave reacheu u
period OF elaborateness in couture tha' mas iio'
been seen before for many years First OF all. the
hair is curled instead of waved, for "ondua'oh
Is almost much out Of favor as are ,ne eai-
covering bandeaux: and good deal OF raise nan
Is used not in the way of switches LOT alhoS' "''
head Of hair II cured Is sufficient for the tw'sN
but in the form OF short corkscrew curis' ihese
are from three to six inches long, and are plhleu
about the face or behind the ears In q dozen be-
witching ways
4 hairlresser while discussing his methods. re-
Gently said he had avoided If possible pul'iNe
any false hair directly against the face, admitting
that no matter how fine and soft the har was
or how well IL matched the live hair, IL was app
10 have an unpleasant effect upon the SKIN
The simplest form Of hairdressing now. and the
one that generally forms the foundation Tor the
more elaborate evening coinures is the curly pom
padour and this style is much preti!er. done with
irregular waved locks escaping into Solt irregular
little curls than II was last year when "ondula-
ton appeared to be arranged with an men ruie
after the most exact and artificial manner possio'e
For ordinary toilet the hair Is diviaeo from
ear to ear back half being arranged IN a loose
twist What remains Is drawn softly from the face
and the curly ends. If short enough. are pinned
over and about the knot. \ circular comb, with
the teeth pushing forward, makes the pompadour
and two much shorter combs puff the hair out not
extravaganty. however. in the neck
USE OF THE POMPADOUR.
This same pompadour is retained for the even
fnr and the short curls are arranged among tho
loose locks. One odd style has bunch OF these
little curl. Of irregular length standing up over the
forehead, with some more arranged BACK OF the
temples. Another has the whole pompadour made
of short curs, turning away from the face. with
the natural hair cut tn form @ suggestion OF an
irregular fringe about the face. In another cofure
We see a suggestion Of the Victorian period in the
side rinslets-very quaint and pretty they are-but
the pompadour is still there, for we rarely sec
parted hair now on young women. parting is
used however in a d!gnifed style OF coiffure that
requires long, thick, even hair to accomplish.
The hair Is simply parted and drawn smoothly. II
tightly. behind the ears. where 1t is arranged IN
two brads that are wound, coronet fashion. about
the head. II Is so long since we have seen any
thing OF this style that IL seems distinct novelty
Here Is a description of a model That has been
designed for some smart daytime function on the
Riviere The material Is a lightweight cream
cloth. the cloth making the skirt and short shout
der cape. with light yellow mousseline de sole
forming the bodice. which is shaped blouse fashion,
with lot Of shrring about the shoulders and long
wrinkled sleeves. Inc skNt MS sEuSS pNci
hips and is cut In one piece. something after the
manner OF the umbrella skirts or some years aSo
mousseiine de sole, the upper one arranged about
at the knees. Each founce is headed by an ei cap,
and appliqued pieces OF gauze and velvet the
same founco and embroidery Tin tho sae shr ad
by high ruche of the thin stun ana Dig Oo"
under the chin.
SUMMER FROCK.
Another charming summer frock Is even more
quaint The material is muslin. the color in the
design suggesting bits OF coral A yoke Is formed
of 1--WE rows OF shrring separated by rufles OF
narrow coral-pnk ribbon. which are In turn edged
with narrow Vaenciennes. The same forms the
short. tight sleeves. edgng ut the elbows with iui
rufies. About the shoulders is hchu OF the stun
finished by double hounce. Inside these founces
is a tiny one Of the lace-edsed ribbon The menu
arrangement does not cross or meet. but Is carried
down each side Of the bodice and continued IN
sash ends on the skirt. The belt of pink ribbon IS
against the fchu The bodice is finished by tiny
on Is r White n six bs Si s Skirt Being hung
and arranged with clusters OF shirring at the hips
creation made for oo one OF the Coming Russian Court
balls. The gown itself is of white satin with apron
gold thread. with side panels rich with an EN-;
brodery Of pink and red flowers Some artificial
the skirt and train The court mantle hangs from
very. pale pink and bordered by thick jabots of
English lace The corsage is tight TO the figure
There are number Of new shades Of pink and
light red in favor now. Orange red-or mandarin
red of The dealers call i'll have seen as
the color motif Of dainty frock in cream chiffon
mounted over yellow silk the bright color being
bow on the hem Of the skirt. Pale yellow silk Is
newer shade much like it called coral. A recent
evening gown is OF pale blue satin covered by a
fine white embroidery that suggests frost work
clear Ice. and is frightened with coral velvet
SOME STAGE GOWNS.
Mile Reichenberg the ingenue OF the Coincide
FRANCHISE is a tiny woman. far from being either
young or pretty but she dresses always with great
taste and recent one-act piece. "Mieux Vaut
pouceur," gave her an opportunity to display two
extremely "chic" and up-to-date costumes. The
street costume is Of blue velvet in a soft shade,
French call 1t bleu pastel. which doesn't explain
It much better The gown is cut Princess ana
satin richly embroidered with jets and yellow gui-
steel and Set buttons. and above the collar is a
yoke OF softly gathered white null the same max
chilla lace and violets is worn with this and vo-
let toque =, ,.,,o,o,a,.. ,.,,,.,,
pretty, Of white tulle with skirt ,haif-oOvered by
rows Of. white ribbon About the hem are several
some inches above the sleeves are long and
fined by a sash Of blue. A lot Of dressing for a
short piece which, after ALL Is only literary curl
osity. and will probably never be played on any
In the main play of the evening Mile de Marny's
get very clear idea of the scheme Of her dinner
toilet The gown IS entirely OF lace mounted
over blue silk with long sleeves. and decolletage
pointed behind and rounded in front. Broad pieces
the back the upper side OF the outlining the
neck. At tho waistline several loops hang down
toilet OF coral satin and fower-eInbroidered wrap
This latter garment ~ novel. and somewhat sug-
Rests a matinee II is half-loose. sacQue- shion
reaching a little less than halfway TO the knees
with the !ace-covered revers making long, sraigh,
ends to the hem of the skirt. The sleeves large
and full Of lace that is tied In at the elbows with
ribbon bows.
1t is strange what almost dowdy dressing one
often at the FRANCHISE during the summer
months, for play there means display OF