The herald., 1897-06-13
FOR FLOUNCES
A Skirt That Ast0nishes
Fashion Extremists
A BODICE ALL OF LACE
PRINTED SILK MUSLIN is IN
GREAT DEMAND
A BODICE ALL OF LACE
A New Racing Costume-Up-to-Date
Styles in Accordion Pleating-A
Fetching Summer Gown
snec,a, correspopaence to The Herald.

InlHk VutTe Is HOtulllS HGW uHutI tlt
sun should look at the very latest skirt.
1t is a wonder and glory at the same
time. especially for the tall, slender
women, for it is flounces from top to bot
tom-nothing but founces. 1t is made in
black glace silk, the whole thing.
The dressmaker whom l talked to
about 1t said, however. that If the great
est care was not taken when cutting
these fiounces, the skirt would be utterly
ruined. One little slip Of the shears and
say goodby to the skirt. From the foot
to the belt Of the skirt each flounce is
shaped without any fullnesis. and Is cut
on the cross. The founces are piped
with white and edged with lace. Really.
though, the new skirt is pretty enough.
In fact, 1t may be called elegant without
exaggeration.
am told that the early VictoSlan pc
riod' is responsible for this newest crea-
ton, and that uhe grande DANES Of that
date used to wear very nearly the same
sort of skirt. The more, investigate
the question, however, the more learn
that this Is not true. There may have
been an occasional skirt of this sort, but
it was never general. We may be imi-
tative, but in this one instance what we
have initiated is something that was
always exceedingly fashionable al
though very rare.
The woman who numbers among her
possessions some rare old lace Is for
tunate, indeed. To be sure that Is one Of
the few things from whose value time
does not detract, and which is always
desirable. But this particular summer
lace is used so universally that 1t Is more
valuable than ever. Beside the usual
frilling and fiounces and edgings and'in-
sertings, we are wearing boleros oflace-
even on cotton gowns, while summer
silk can hardly be said to be complete
without one. And now the very latest
thing is to have bodices made of this
dainty fabric. They are usually ecru in
color. and are made in the favorite pouch
fashion, fastening at the side. They have
simply high band and rufiied sleeves.
These are made to wear over detached
bodices of any desired color, and are
thus as economical as they are pretty
which is saying great deal.
The demand for printed silk muslin Of
a filmy texture is hardly equal to the
supply. 1t comes in so many beautiful
colors and falls in such soft and becom.
ing folds that 1t is extremely popular for
dressy costumes. Nothing could be more
suitable for the warm, balmy days, the
soft green tones being especially at
tractive and cool looking. Green and
white are greatly in favor, and saw one
such combination that was really de-
lightful The gown itself was of white
canvas, trimmed with the lightest green,
inch-wide gauze ribbon with a satin
edge This was applied in the form of
braiding to the skirt in very intricate
pattern, and also on the sleeves and the
front of the bodice The epaulettes form
long cape-like trimmings above the arms
and the sleeves fall over the hand. The
effect of the whole was very satisfac-
tory.
Here Is an appropriate costume for
those of us who sometimes go to the
races. The material is the ever popular
foulard in soft pearl grey. The skirt
is of the fashionable sun-ray pleated
variety, edged with a ruche of black
silk muslin made very full, and striped
down the sides with treble rows of
heavy black lace insertion, connected
together for several inches at the top,
so as to we'll mould the hips. The blouse
anu SLEEVES are UOtH tuChtu anu
trimmed with insertions of the black
lace to correspond with that on the skirt.
The square fiat epaulettes are of silver
guipure scalloped with tiny pleatings
of black lace, the belt and straight collar
being also OF the guipure. The hat to
wear with this gown is of fine grey
straw, with beret crumpled crown set off
with bows and draperies in pearl grey
chiffon. 1t has. an aigrette Of black
ostrich tips at the side. The parasol is
of Pekin silk edged with a silk muslin
founce.
Accordion pleating Is very much in
favor, and appears in almost endless
variety in the matter of the arrangement
of the pleats. Perhaps the most fash
ionable at present is the sun-ray kilt
pleated skirt. otherwise known as plisse
soleil, but this is only one of many One
of the newest styles is the cross-way
killing, especially suitable for sleeves
and house gowns. Then there are stripes
formed of some dozen close set killings,
with an inch of plain material above,
while others form box pleats broken al
intervals by strips of the same material
Another style falls In waved lines which
closely resemble cordings and minute
unAine wavings in corded stripes, close
ly set together either in lines or Van
Dykes.
Some Of the ordinary killings are
broken by festooning scallops of the ma
terial, and give the aspect of a single or
double row of flouncing. Fashionable
capes are much trimmed with kilt
pleated lisse, and some, for evening and
carriage wear, are covered with lace,
killed, and in it's turn overlaid with lace
houncings. Very many of the latest
blouses are either tucked or killed, some
suggestion of this style appearing on the
sleeves If not elsewhere. Even the par
asols, which this year are so much
trimmed as to be actually fussy, are GOV.
cred with accordion pleating and have
frillings at the edge of lace and silk. The
latest thing in handles for these addi-
tions to the toilette is the semblaEce to a
horse chestnut bursting from it's prckly
sheath.
We are going to wear barege again,
and it Is really very desirable material
in many ways, although the sort we
used to have was noted for its unpleas-
ant tendency to split horizontally on the
very slightest provocation, or none at
ALL The modern variety, however, is
better woven and many of the newest
dresses are being made of it. The most