The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1897-02-18

the sleeves, and stops high up on the
bust and front.
embroidered at the wrist in jet, and
from them is a smaller undersleeVe of
net embroidered jet and turquoise.
The collar is of embroidered jet with
a thread lace, fulled in at the back.
The only color used on this costume is a
pale blue, and with it Mrs. Mckinley will
wear some beautiful ornaments of tur-
quoise and diamonds.
The gown which Mrs. Mckinley expects
to wear on her first appearance in the
Senate is a dark blue velvet, in what is
known as royal blue. 1t is lined with
pale blue brocaded silk, finished with
several little ruffles.
The skirt is full and perfectly plain
and touches the floor in the back. The
bodice is of velvet, made over a full
white satin front, embroidered in cross
wise bands in two shades of blue, pale
violet and blue pyotts. These bands are
an inch in width and two inches between,
and the effect is almost Oriental,
The shape of the bodice is peculiar The
velvet is cut out to form points over the
bust and a second two inches below the
waist line and is sharply slashed under
the arm, where the embroidered satin can
show.
In the back is also a wide box plait
brought sharply into the waist line and
plated full out over the back of the skirt
about two inches in depth. This is lined
with white embroidered satin TO match the
front.
The collar is of velvet, with the idea
of the full box plat, standing high in the
back and lined with white embroidered
satin.
The sleeves are perfectly plain, with a
full puff at the top.
With this costume Mrs. Mckinley has
bonnet of blue velvet and a crown of
white net, embroidered with gold. At one
side is a knot of white lace and a black
aigrette.
The gown in which state calls will be
made Is a charming costume of pale gray
drap d'ete, new material which has
just been introduced this spring. The
skirt is embroidered around the bottom
in a special design, the workmanship of
this being exquisite, as may be imagined
when it is said that twenty-five girls were
employed upon 1t constantly for more than
two. weeks This same embroidery ex-
tends up the two front seams, growing
narrower toward the top. The colors used
in the embroidery are steel blue shading
into pale gray.
tucks half an inch between each tuck.
On the bodice is an embroidered yoke
back and front, which is cut in grad
uated points. To this the material is ful6
ed down in the front and is fastened
to the waist line to produce a blouse eff
High under the arms the cloth is en-
broidered and is brought forward beneath
the full blouse and into point at the
back. Knots of two shades of gray rib
bon are fastened just below the shoulder
IN front, and are brought down, disap-
pearing under the waist line.
The collar is of chiffon, and the ribbon
"
bows al the back
The sleeves have an embroidered edge
at the bottom an inch wide. Above this
is a group of tucks, and so on to the
top where the cloth spreads out full, and
is heavily embroidered.
The lining of this gown is almost as
| charming as the outside, the material for
| 1t being pale gray brocaded taffeta.
| The bonnet to be worn is of cut steel,
| trimmed with black and white aigrettes,
| and violets at the back.
| 6 street
| apple green broadcloth, with a smooth.
| glossy surface. This is braided up and
| down the four straight seams in a curious
| basket design, being considerably wider
| at the bottom than at the top. On the bod
| ice the braid extends across the shoulders
| and sleeves all in one piece In front Is
vest of violet velvet tucked horizontally,
| very fine at the top and at the lower part
| of the waist The collar is braided in black,
| finished with a full velvet box plat at the
| back. The bonnet is of steel, with black
| tips and an orchid.
A house gown for afternoons or evenings
! at home is a gray and black brocaded silk
| cut Princesse throughout and lined with
| gray taffeta silk. The front and part of
| the back are of white mousseline de sole.
plated full and brought in two graduated
! plats over the shoulders. Three bands of
| black velvet ribbon hold this in place in
| front and finish the waist line The collar
| is of mousseline de sol, with black velvet
| bows in the back. The sleeves are Of the
| silk, cut with a flare at the bottom, and
turned back and trimmed with bands of
L.
| of soft mousseline de sol, shirred in fun
| at the wrist, and finished with tiny black
| velvet bands and bows.
The amount of thought that has been
! exercised in the making of these costumes
| has been very great, and the labor put
| upon them has been almost unprecedented.
Nearly all the gowns are trimmed with
| lace of exquisite design, and in conse-
| Quence of unusual value. The embroidery
| alone has taken weeks of time, and occu-
pied the fingers of scores of girls who are
skilled in this labor.
All the material used has been of the
best, and in many instances the price
| paid has been from $40 to $50 a yard.
nearly 5000, and is triumph of the
dressmaker's art, supplemented by the
use of gorgeous materials and lace and
hand-wrought embroidery.
OF the other costumes none nave tall-
en- below $500. The aggregate sum will
reach between 5000 and $4,000.
Mrs McKinley's favorite color is blue,
and is shown by the number of blue
gowns in her wardrobe, and 1t Is color
which she has worn from her girlhood up.
A green cloth gown was once suggested
by Mr.. Mckinley, and one which, next
to the inauguration gown, he took spec
The gowns have all been fitted at the
McWilliams house, Miss Arcourt having
made daily visits to this house during
Mrs McKinley's stay there. The great
the arrangements for the costuming Sc
cret at least till inauguration day.
Miss Arcourt, the modist VINO has de-
signed the inaugural gowns, has learned
Europe She has studied the fashions of
Paris in Paris itself, and has learned also
what her American patrons like; 1t is
said that Mrs. Mckinley is highly de-
lighted with her work
NOT A NEW PLAN.