Evening star., 1897-01-23

stiffeuinc than in the days of greater am
pIitude Of d-aperies. but dis>ourage the eff
Tort to get along without any in.erlining
whatever The drift toward the double
skirt shows more plainly in house dresses
and in evening frocks than in street cos
tune The evening gown particularly has
grown so used to such arrangement of it's
toUnceS as best Stimulates an overskirt
that the overskirt itself in light trans
parent materials. is taken as no novelty
hut matter of course when used. That
however. is not too frequently. The sleeve
IrSS evening gown. ushered in with such
flourish of trunipetS no long time ago. has
not pushed its popularity very far. One of
fashion : sterneSt eiicts this winter is that
no section Of arm must show between glove
and gown. Set up this decree against the
decree of no sleeves, and one or the other
must Yield. else you have anarchy. The
SlOFeHiakfrs have done their best to
store peace and harmony by Offering longer
gloves tnatn ever Were seen before, but
th"ir good offices count for little since
even with the best intentions possible
glove and q shoulder strap cannot for any
length OF time cohere- They make the eff
tort sometimes: at other times the strap
expands, p"rforce. into sleeve.
The square cut evening corsage appears
cttener tnan any other form II Is framed
with ribbons often. with flowers or a sim
pie edge OF lace occasionally. A broader
ruche Of lace sometimes double or triple
ricnF- faIlins down upon the shoulders in
HOII'eS- stands prime favorite as finish for
the rounded bodice. though the folded ber-
sh1 makes strong claim to that position.
Ih@ \ corsage with draped bertha is used
On some very pretty new costumes but the
'front.' i apt TO be filled in with lace Ieav-
ING the deco!l@tase really square, or nearly
So The butterfly bow with its buckle
"fs- iare-e'iged wings and long streaming
enIs a. the back OF the waist is as pretty
a. any of The belt finishes Young girls in
hteal OF jewels, wear at the throat ribbons
matching the dress garnitures The effect
5isaihst the white skin above the decol-
1etaS" l. usually good. though If the neck
fe pretty any ornament is superfuous But
Tor such Ike conceits it is time one turned
L. examples
Dainty Combs nation
Louis NNI gowns have precedence Out
@ score or more seen here are couple
Of the freshest. A dainty combination of
rcse color and white is for a young girl of
eishfe-f or nineteen. The skirt of white
SIX Is striped perpendicularly with pale
water green. and figured with bouquets of
roses Above the hem Is very wide fiounce
ot wdlte mousseline de sole with a pufYed
4eadrg g. Opening upon this skirt Is an
otaer OF rose pink silk, making the back
ana side dTapertes and seemingly held away
from The front by rows OF rose-colored rib
bon which catch IT 10 the figured silk be-
to" The square bodice is of rose satin en-
7lreiy covered with blouse of white NOUS
With rows Of puffings, below which is ser :,
1uN ruche of pink satin on either side m
rorn1 an epaulet for the shoulder There ~
q bow OF pink ribbon at the bosom and a
folded belt al tn. waist of pink velvet The
short fun sleeves are OF pink satin and the
blows OF IVORY white suede are more than
.ohS enough 10 meet them. A pink ribbon
hair. III 'ie
a much simpler dress with the general
erect OF the Marie Antoinette styIe and
eAlr -nlely pretty when worn is OF white
SIX. dsllcately figured with small dnwers
IN p'ak and blue The skirt has two fuII
narrow ruflles Of white silk at the bottom
s.n"N" which at intervals are set bows of
l'ihN velvet. The low. square bodice of the
sam" Tnateria, has biocse front gathered
mo a pink ribbon belt with a ros4.tte of
p.nk velvet on one side The shoulders are
SCI IN a square frame of pink velvet rihbnp
WITH bows above the arms Full rnfies OF
SIX make a cross between epauIets and
Sit'N~s- hl'e gloves are worn to the
shoulders
For "a Young Matron.
or an altogether different style is a prin-
cess gown of black moire velvet for a
young married woman. The very low bod
ice has rich vest Of gold guipure, which is
qulie snort aud opens upon a front of pleat-
cd black tulle. the folds OF which fail to
the FeT or the gown. making the front
panel OF the skirt For the rest the skirt
Is OF black moire velvet cut straight mar
Tow and demi-train, giving TALL stately
effect 10 the figure. But / didn't finish
with the bodice. This is sleeveless; narrow
bretell-s OF geranium-eOlored velvet cross
the shoulders. are fastened by gold but
x%ohs % at the waist and fall down upon the
skirt quite a distance The result of dis
pensiug with sleeves has been well calcu-
4ated IN this instance. The absence of
puifs upon the shoulders and the long lines
or tins bretelles, harmonizing with the slow
curves OF the prfncesse robe contribute TO
shs general effect OF slenderness and height
aimed at IN the design. The only detail at
Variance with this scheme IS the waist
Hounce OF gold guipure with which the vest