davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Novel Trimmings.

Colored pearls OF all sorts and kinds, cut
in facets, are being lavishlv used, espe-
Cia!ly on evening dresses. A white fabric
called spider net is enjoying high favor
and is worked in silver pearls and gold.
During this week l have specially noted
al three of your leading stores The beauty
OF the gold-run. ieweled black nets which
the merchants have secured to meet the
demands of fashion. One such net had
running through it broken lines of twisted
gold threads at intervals OF every hall
inch. Between these lines were oval
shaped coral ornaments, each in tiny
setting of the golden threads. Another
net had straight lines Of gold between
which were quite lovely turquoises. Either
OF these nets could be purchased for $15
yard, and they ure not wide. Others may
be had sparkled With rubies and emer-
aids or with diamonds and opals so all
tastes have been catered to, but only
weli-lined purses can stand many yards
OF the d delightful ieweled gauze nets.
a Partisan gown affords good example
of one OF the most stylish EN- Droideries
From the foot of the skirt use large
sprays OF tulips and leaves. The flowers
are in bold relief, prod uced by iridescent
seouins piled one over the other.
Chenille is being used in EN- broidery to
represent both fruit and flowers. The
ghtest veIvets form the groundwork of
STEEL gold and silk EN- broldery, amethysts
perhaps being he newest Introduction.
Diamonds, imitation ones of course
ale usually EN- mployed, glisten on every
handsome gown, except ng tailor-made
ones, so effective have they been found.
Artisticaly perfect are some of the finest
makes OF satin, just from Paris, that are
EN- embroidered all over with trailing roses.
Naturally they require but little added
trimming, and fine lace shows to the best
advantage when used on them.
Large revers and collars worked in steel
and jet would make almost any dress
beautiful, while the white lisse embroi-
dered in gold and pearls is employed ex-
tensively for the front OF skirts and bod
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

ideal. Speaking of doll babies l must not
neglect 10 alIude 10 the one dressed by a
small maiden, it was so neatly and
prettily done.
Some of the hats were good, but next
year we shall hope for a more extensive
display.
Every dress l have alluded to, and
many besides, would serve as perfect
models for our irocks.
am certain you will all be delighted
with the illustrations l have procured for
you. One is of particularly smart bodice
OF dahlia-colored velvet, with white satin
revers and epaulettes, richly embroidered
with diamonds and gold, while a narrow
edgIng OF dahlia feather trimming adds a
more finished effect. The brlt which is .
high one, is CON- posed OF The same colored
velvet.
Another is simply charming, OF white
cloth, handsomely EN- mbroidered in gold
and silver, and boasting an elaborate
hussar braid ng.
No less artistic is the delightful gown in
gray cloth. with front and revers OF white
cloth, edged with silver braid.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Costumes Worn at Recent
Functions

l have just heard OF several charming
evening toilets worn at the ball and
cotillon given about three weeks ago by
the Marqui>e de Pleuc. ct which were
several leaders of Parisian society.
The cotillon was led by the hostess, at
tired in pom padour creation, the crea m-
ground broche, with large bouquets Of
"roses and several founces OF pink silk
chiffon, held in place with pearl knots; ;
the low bodice was pink gauze, with
pompadour bretelles and tufts of roses on
the shoulder.; the sleeves extremely
small in fact only twist of gauZe; pearl
and diamond ornaments MaIquise de
Broc was in striped blue and white silk
pekin, with rosebuds on the white stripe !;
round the low bodice was cloud OF blue
gauZe, and the turquoise satin walstband
was fastened with a gold and turquoise
clasp.
Beautiful also was a dress of mauvre
satin. wonderfully wrought with shaded
silks and pearls all down the front. The
bodice was cut square, and next the skin
were soft folds OF pink gauze. 4 diamond
clasp held together the satin belt.
One OF tie notable weddings of the
month in Paris was that of Mile. de
la Bourdonnaye and COME de Mention.
The bride was radiant in a princess dress
posed of heavy white satin. TIE
rarest point d'Ang!eterre adorned the
bodice. This winter white satin will be
almost universally chosen y brides. In
deed, this fabric is 10 have a decided
vogue. as every fashionable woman will
likewise include in her wardrobe at least
one white satin dinner gowr.
The brides mother was gowned in q
bIeu de roi satin. The trained skirt had
on the sides ouilles of velvet that matched
the satin; these were EN- broidered and
headed. The bodice had a short basque,
IN front of which was arranged some
handsome white lace.
One of the latest styles for visiting or
evening dresses is 10 employ two mate
ria OF the same shade. For example,
the upper part of a skirt is Of silk and the
lower portion OF embroidered velvet; the
em mbroIdery ulites the two materials.
The same idea is carried out N the bodice.
The newest sleeves are quite plain. with
only little frill or epauletle, but they
continue to be very long and open over the
hand with an edging OF lace, mousseline
ia sole or chiffon.
Never before have such beautiful waist
belts been so generally seen. Most are
covered with jewels and have pearl or dia-
mond clasps, but for wear during the day
the bands are perfectly plain) merely a
band of velvet, which in some cases are
embroidered and placed on leather so as
to avoid creases. The buckles or clasps
are usually extremely arnale.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
CHARMING NOVEL TIES FOR FASHIONS DEVOTEES

was lined with fur. large hat, trimmed
simply with folds OF velvet and siff feath-
ers, COMPLETED the toilet.
Another noted matron gar bed in new
black MORE wooden material was ad-
mired. Over all the dress were ziezag
bands, sewed on crosswise. of black satin.
The bod ce had vest OF true turquoise
blue satin. The toque was OF velvet, ex-
actly ore shade darker. with two short
but very handsome black ostrich plumes
at the side The bodice was very slightly
pouched in front and with it was worn
jeweled belt, turquoises teing the prin-
C pal stones.
The Comtesse de Chev:gne wore
mouse-gray costume rather oddly braided
with black, for the braid was made to
sim ulate bas que OH tie skirt and was
continued on the bodice. Her black vel
vet toque merely had four Straight black
wings.
paratiyely few were the velvet
dresses worn, but one of black MORE vel
vet that had the bodice richly EN- broid-
cred with cut Jet was effective, and
large hat adorned with black and veige
feathers and roll of emerald green vel
VeIveteen costumes are becoming quite
popular, especially in dead-eaf browns
and gray green's, when worn with collar
cites OF rich or bright-hued We vets, and
jeweled BELTS One from leading dress
maker l like. 1t is in brownish shade of
velveteen relieved with all exquisite sap
phire blue velvet, which is merely intro
duced on the bodice. The skirt hangs
freely over a petticoat OF sapphire giace
whic is much rutfted.
A brown cloth completed by an artist
gives another feature in dressmaking, for
it has deep crosswsy tuck OF Oriental
velvet laid under the extreme edge OF the
skirt, above which are rows of black braid.
J The same velvet appeared at the waist
and in perpendicular rows down the
slightly open front of the full bodice. Some
white net spotted with black appeared
through the aperture.
From Redferns London house direct
comes chic and useful creation which
no one can fail to appreciate for it is of a
Wedgwood blue silk. the front of the
skirt b ing traced with silver seauins.
The bodice turns back with round collar
Of white satin, likewise embroidered with
the silver St QulHS, Wnlie Just at me threat
is little soft co lar OF pointed lace hang
ing over a larger collar in a most becom-
, ing fashion, showing the throat. The
sleeves tit closely and are traced with the
sequins, and the tucked belt is made OF
the same colored silk as the gown. In
New York lately was seen dress OF dark
blue cloth, consisting of two pieces, skirt
and blouse Around The bottom OF the
skirt were several straight lines, broken
by diamond crossings, done with an inch
wide black satin ribbon. The blouse was
smart, and did not in front fall into
strai- ht lines, but kept its shape well.
owing TO an odd coupe. The entire front
surface was crossed in diamonds by a
narrower satin r.bb)n, IN effect most
pleasing. 4 high collar was cut IN with
the back and there were short and high
revers, which were lined witt cream
white cloth, the edge bordered with mar
row black SATIN stitched down. There
were very close tailor sleeves, long wrists
slashed and lined with white cloth.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
The ChantiIIy Races

Always attract large number of the most
periec liy turned out women In Paris. At
the last races one fair Princees looked her
best in a simple tailor made costume,
evolved from & oove-colored cashmere
cloth on which were points of chenille
and braid OF the same hue on the skirt.
The bodice had an EN- oroidered yoke and
matched. The sleeves were of the en-
broidery running lengthw1se. Resting
grace fully on her shoulders was cape Of
a darker shade OF satin cloth, covered
with en- broidery. The large open cape
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

capital city of the great State OF Washington
for on this date the ladies OF that city or
ganized what will hereafter be known as the
Si.ton Whist Club, named in honor of Mrs. L.
w. Sitton. president Of the Kate Wheeiock
Club OF Portland, Or. Whether the club or
Mrs Sitton is to be congratulated we are too
far away to Judge. One thing we do know
Mrs Sitton has done much il not more GOOD
N the whist vineyard than any other woman
on the Pacific Coast.
She has induced great many hundred
ladies to take up the game as scientific
study-not as a mere amusement or pastlme
She founded and is now president OF the
largest womau's whist club in this country
She was specially invited to Olympia TO give
the ladies whist talk, and the outcome was
the formation CT this club.
The officers elected were: Mrs. ]. c. Horr,
president: Miss Marion Patten, vice president;
Mrs T. Macleay, secretary and treasurer.
Events at the Whist Clubs.
THE SACRAMENTO WHIST CLUB.
TOP scores at the Sacramento " hist Club dur
Ing the pas week were mads as follows:
Monday evening-Duplicate OF Teams OF four,
under the Howell system. Team composed Of
George Nj. Mott Mrs. b. Z. Miller, F. II. Kiefer
and Mrs C. T. Mouser succeeded in accommodating
the highest p us score yet made at the cluo by a
mixed team-1S plus.
Tuesday afternoon-Drive whist, Mrs ]. Fl
Hughes and Mrs. ]. N Blair, average 631a per
cent.
Wednesday evenng-Compass whist Mrs. ".
A. Briggs Mrs H. A. Farbank sitting north
and south, scored p'us while east and west two
teams-Mrs C. B. Pead and Miss Carrie Estes
and Mr. and Mrs. George NJ. Moti-made plus.
In cutting OFF the prizes ell to Miss Estes and Mrs
Mott.
Friday afternoon-Compass whist north and
south honors tell TO Mrs. A. A. Remington and
Mrs c. 7. Mouser, score 10 plus. while three
teams-Mrs. j NJ. Anderson and Mrs. c. B. Mar
lin Mrs. 4. A. Van Voorhies and Mrs C. NJ
Beckwith, and Mrs. r. NJ Lynn and Miss Louise
Mliken-div.ded the glory and west, with
plus 7.
Saturday evening-Drive whist, Mrs. r. c. Ir-
vine and Mrs IL. A. Wells: average, IS per cent
THE TRIsr DUPLICATE WHIST CLUB
In the ladies' afternoon game the honors were
carried off by Mrs. A. b. Woodward and Mrs.
Palmer having the highest score orth and south,
above the average, and Mrs. T. X. Myers and
Mrs f. Irtdericks the highest east and west
score, above the average.
LINDA VISTA WHIST CLUB.
The fif season of this fou rishng little whist
club ope ed its ia and winter play November
l6 at the sidence OF one of its founders, Il. B.
Galley. The election of officers too< place this
evening and resulted in the sc ection of he follow
ing: President E. NJ. Walsh; vice-president,
Mrs E. L. Down; secretary and treasurer 5. J.
Taylor
The active mem bers of this club are: Mr.. and
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Whist Partner Wanted.

Whist Editor Of the Call: Can you furnish me
with whist partner? one that can play with
during the fourth annual tournament: OF The Pa
cifc Coast Whist Association, TO be held in your
city on January IA and j B next. One on whose
whist play ca fully rely.
am one of the Old bows OF the Milptas team.
In iact, am the only one left. The balance Of
the team caught # and went OF to the klondike
TO cure my lonesomeneas L set out 10 find a whist
partner.
have had Standing ad in the Milpitas Ca
z tie for two or three months with success
Now, in my hour of trouble appeal you. L
want to get into that tournament au fully lad. L
not very particular who l play with or who
L get. and won't expect him to know every hing,
such all the d fferent systems of whist play now
in vogue, bu: do want him to know a few things
Al least for instance,the American leads as formu
lated by n. h. Trist. These 1 want him to know
beyond the shadow of q doubt If he wants to lead
ourth best from ace and tour small (Which Mr..
Trst has adoptedJ, and then he leads the
ok, from king. queen. Jack and two three
others and having 1t deny the holding OF the ace,
and lie ID the lowest from five small trnmps to
show no plain suit in hand-trump p strength only
and Two or three little innovations like this, 1
won't mind. They must be good when they win
so many tricks
A few things do want him to know are when
l am the rginal leader and open good, strong
suit want him to try and establish that suit and
help me to bring it in ter, and not to monk, Y
with one of his own ] also want him to tell me
how many caids he holds of my suit-in other
words 10 show cumbersome players call il '.un-
booking" l want him TO know that there Is n
vide ference between 'unblocking and SHOW
Ing number" want him to know that hen he
cannot block a suit he cannot unblock-but he can
show number.
IL / am the original leader and open with any
card showing many AS four or more in hand, 1
want TO know the number partner holds II he
holds i've Of a suit In which proclaim four then
i'm his hand shou this snit be established II posi-
BILE and should get ou: of his way. L don't want
him To call this and several other plays might
mention an echo" There is only one play that
In nv opinion Is entitled to that honor 1t Is this:
If my partner ''cais for trumps" if have a GER
lain number, four or three, whichever we agree
upop. 1 aEcno." Didn't the Queen of the Gods +"
limo pass sentence ibis beautiful nymph
(Echo), deprivng her Of the use of her tongue ex-
cqpt for the one purpose of reply and power TO
speak tirs@
1 believe the "echo" should be a reply to some
play tn I has been made. ike the name high
ow" when you play higher than lower card
for any other purpose than to call fer trumps or
.echo" the call.
1 want my partner to know by the fai, of the
cards when TO lead trump without my asking
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

Mrs. f. d. Flint. Mr. and Mrs A. F. Coffin, Mr. and
Mrs K. B. Galley MIR an1 Mrs b. s. Hubbard
MIR and Mrs J. Taylor, Mr.. and Mrs (. a
Heron Mr. and Mrs J. f Eby, Mr. and Mrs f.
L. Dow, Messrs. C. ~ Cooks, K. NJ. Price T. f.
Murdock r. G. Zahn. +. j. Cotton. The next
meeting takes place at the home OF f. A Heron
Friday. Decembrr 3.
The weekly prizes that given in the Linda
ista Club were carried off last week by Mrs L.
a. Heron and r. B. Galley.
P. ]. ToRMEY
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

work, and it is ornamented with gold and
pearl beads. Such bodices can be worn
with almost any kind of skirt with the
happiest results.
Still more novel is bodice for day
wear, made with iuil effect that is COM
posed Of the breast feathers OF the
Implyan pheasant. They are silky and
most beautiful. For very sleuder figure
such bodice would be veritable
treasure.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Chit-Chat.

For morning wear very narrow turn
down linen collars placed on high neck
bands are most fashionable, but lace of a
simple good quality is used also.
Many fair Parisians wear their hats
tilted up quite on one side by means of
the wreath of roses placed underneath.
Covert cloth is now considered most
fashionable in fawn and especially IL
prune shades.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Sutton.

On Thursday evening last the members of
the Trist Duplicate Whist Club gave recep-
ZION to their newly elected president, John g.
Sutton which was largely attended.
The decor alton OF the rooms was in keeping
with the season, manzanita, madrone and
holly berries, with the wild black berry vine
predominating, with huge punches OF chry-
santhemums these. with the pretty light
d.esses of the ladies, who were arrayed in all
the colors OF the rainbow. and few dashes
of black harmonizing all, presented very
pleasing and gay appearance
After the greetings were over, the game pro-
ceeded, the prizes for the highest score north
and south being won by A. Moreton and Mrs.
Jonathan Curtis, and Mrs. ID. w. Guptill and
J. u. Haley. These two pairs tied, who cut.
the latter winning. The east and west prizes
fell to the lot OF Mrs. A. B. Woodward and
Jonathan Curtis. Refreshments were served
later.
new feature has been introduced INTO the
Friday afternoon play by the Trist Club ladies,
Mrs. z. K Myers directress, which admits out
side ladies TO the club on paymentot small
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
a.; .hNI:ll!s: hN{Ia!s:j sj:!a = :, :.

monthly due, but 10 initiation fee.
The Friday game is preceded by whist
talk, and the monthly prize is awarded to the
highest average. there being small handicap
applied TO the stronger players.
Those desirous of joining can apply to Mrs.
F. Fredericks, secretary and treasurer, Hotel
Belle Vista.
What Is the Proper Lead and
Follow?
Our whist editor will give prize to the
one who sends us the correct original lead and
proper follow, with the best notes explaining
same, a copy of Kate Wheeiock's Second edi-
ton, Just ouO whist Rules" which is, with
out doubt, one OF the most instructive books
for Whist students ever written on The game.
The system known as the american leads 10
govern Mark the first lead First" the fol-
low. or second from the suit, second" and
sign your name.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

him to do so by calling" This is the crucial tes
to the skill of a whs player and where our Mil
ptas team downed the 7 rist Duplicate so badly
before he Brooklyn congress.
1 would also like my partner to be familiar with
the diff rent discard ard adopt one which would
be well TO call 'dtscarding to the situation" But
it takes keen whist perception TO do this and not
mudde it,
want my partner to know when hold the
twelfth or thirteenth card OF lain suit, and
when l know ne has good trump or two il lead
the lower OF the two | want his best trump. If |
lead the higher he is to use his own judgment,
whether he trumps or not.
l also want him TO treat four card pain suit
three and he had cad from IL originally. If he
wants to do tho vaudeville occasionally on Cff
nights won't kick, but he must attend strictly to
business in match play.
There al e Sc veral ether little things like know
ing how 10 play second hand and how FAR he
should go in finessing and wh' n and how to play
false cards. In plain suits false cards play should
be systemized If played al all.
/ fee as though had said too much already and
might scare off an Applicant l won't, though, I
will lake HIM by the hand and say, "Let US pull
together; ! will never kick at you II you don't
at me-"
Mr.. Editor, IL you Will help me to find such a
partner will give you all my tickets for the Owl
ponies
Mlptas, Nov. "a.
Reception to President John g.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

md mthea m % When
: 20 W World a your letter
an fyh ia
n a. % Ionen
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

a17 kn-LADIES CLOTH
DI l.oU SUITS. fly frout or Rus
sian j'ckets, lined with silk,
Iith y braided on front and back
double line skirts, black and
colors. regular price $2j, on
special sale at $17 30.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
.C1c kO-LADI les EXTR4
CIO.CO QUALITY K r S Z

JACK ELS, Uned thrOughOu
with taffe.a silk, new turnover
collar; colors, black. tan anu
Royal blue, on special sale ct
SIG 80.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

l7 SO-LADIES' CHE VIOTI
? |.oU CLOTH SUITS, fly flonlI
jackets, lined with silk serge,
skirts lined and bound; colors,
black and navy, regular price $40.
on special sale at 81 80.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

ACKI
oIU.UU CLOTH SUITS. fly front
ilcke's, lined with silk and nicely
braidsd, iuil finished skirts, reg
uiar prlcs $13 80, on special sale
at $40.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Holiday Bargains !

Although every department of great Holiday
Stock is BRIMMING WITH BARGAINS in New, Fashion
able and Elegant Productions week particularly
desire to attract attention to the MAGNIFICENT COL
LECTIONS of THOROUGHLY UP-TO-DATE STYLrS S AND
NOVELTIES exhibited in great Cloak Department.
and to that end offer the following
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

|. Is rs 4. 8
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-25
FIVE TAKEN TO PEEKSkILL.
ONE OF THEM A CHINAMA". NOT EXPECTED 10
L1vr-sroRY OF THE BAGGAGEMAH-THE
r-sC.pr OF 7 T RYAN

Fockskil, y. Y. Oct. 81 (SpeciaD-Poeksk Is
harboring some 81 the passenger who were IN
tured in the railroad disaster a; Carr.sons this
morning A. the hospital are John T.. Ryan. of
Jersey City, head clerk OF the drug firm Of Stein
{ Co, Of that city. twcnty-six years old. who has
bad decorations OF three fingers OF the right hand.
and Is bruised and suffering from shock; Clarence
Morgan, married. twentyeght years Old. Of New
York City clerk in the Office Of the controller OF
the Sew-York Central Railroad. whose collarbone
is broken and who is cut and suffering from shock
and three Cinnamon. whose names have not been
ascertaned One OF the latter has a severe wound
on the head and Is not expected to live. Tho other
Two arc also badly injured. Two Of the Cinnamon
cannot speak English. ard the third only broken
English There we're twelve Cinnamon IN the
smoker this last man Gays. and only tire. escaped
and they are the ones al the hospital Ore Of them
IS believed to live at No Mott-st. New-York City
The first news OF tho accident reached Pcekskiil
this morning $50 O'clock. when a d;f-
patch came from the railroad authorities at tn.
scene OF the wreck asking for all the Peekskiii
doctors who could be found. AZ 30 O'Clock a
special train OF an engine. a caboose and day
coach was made up. and the following PeeekskIll
physicians reported for duty: DR.. E. De Mott Lyon.
DR.. Charles c. Knight. DR.. Percy c. Snowdor,
Dr. Stephen Frost Horton. DR.. Charles ASHER
Knight and Or. C.. p. T. Greene. DR.. Alexander
O. sno~den missed the train and at once drove
to Garr.sona and Joined the surgeons there Accom-
panying the physicians was a trnin-wyccklng crew
from Peeksk The run TO Highland station was
made IN abor. hfteen minutes. Arriving at High
land station. the physicians learned that the H.
jured passengers had been removed 20 the '1o
sleeping cars OF Train 30. ~. the wrecked train.
which had been left on the track The physicians
at once walked half mile 10 thcse cars and went