The times., 1897-12-19
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Coat Collars That DO Not Match
Their Coats.


or all the large and flourishirg New
York dry goods houses, there is but one
which refuses 10 turn itself annually INTO
a Christmas bazaar. All the rest have
the general aspect of a church fair from
the beginning Of December to the end
1t is only within the last few years that
merchants have realized how great is tie
profit of the trade ia fancy nothings f)r ne
holidays. The manager of the church ca.r
has known all about it ever since she pre-
sided at the o cent table when she WIS
small girl, But the merchant has ouiy
begun 10 understand Why his business WI
always dull at Christmas. At first he
made 10 attempt to compete in the sale Z.
fancy work. and the only place to buy
such things has always been in the church
bazaar. THIS year, however. Legitimate
dry goods Is hardly tc be seen, and couuteIs
are filled with ali sorts OF handkerchief
cases. pen-wipers and such like articles,
the purchase OF which is likely To preclJGe
the possibility of buying the things one
needs and should buy al such places.
TIE only kind OF wearing apparel that
seems To DE selling is that which is dec';.d
out in holiday form t. be used as Christmas
presents. Fnrs always play an irnportan Mt
and elegant to lie appropriate gifts fro1.
those who can afford them. Indeed, have
seen some fur garments winch suggested
one of the most economical OF pressnts-ssay
from one sister 10 another. This is, OF courss,
supposing Ihat there is u strip or two off II
belonging to the family which is available
for usa in the way am about to suggest
The idea is taken from a eOlIarette which
was exhibited in one of the Roadway win
dows. The fur was chncfiIla and formed
very limited Medici collar with two tatS
hanging eight Or ten inches below the chin.
Inside the fur collar was another, consist
ing Of ceriSe velvet slashed all around in
square scaliops with a fIounce of yellow
lace between il and the fur, and falling
slightly over the edge. More OF the yellow
lace was ce thered around the abs, and in
the back below the collar were some pIeat
ings of cerise velvet veiied with yellow lace.
The fur was not over three inches wide in
any one place. MI there was tartiIya hole
yard of it In the collarette. by careful
piecing, one could make very respectable
wrap for the neck for less than So, even
supposing one had TO buy both fur ana
velvet.
ChinchilIa fur, sufficiently wide, can be
bought for 81 yard, and other furs quite
as pretty for such collarette sell for less.
The Confirmation OF cerise and gray, gener-
ally is a great IA orite with the ultra-fash-
iona ble. very handsome gray cloth
Jacket eiabrrately embroidered vas Consid-
cred corr ectly finished and very Frenchy,
with its cerise TelSet collar OF the MeGici
flare.
4 coat collar, as may he gathered from
q Dr.lfpdiu,~ Il need rut hso of
same material rs the coat proper. one Of
| the most Ella aborate wraps / have seen is
| what might he called a blouse Newmarket.
| The entire wrap consists OF the finest Of
Persian unborn lamb. The upper por-
| ton is pouciied in front, and is also double
| brea sted. II has jeweled girdIe, and the
| buttons are set with large, imitation anne
| thysts-uncut. of Course. 1t is the collar
| however, which wish to emphasize as an
| extremely Convenient arrangement for al
| most any kind of wrap; for it is merely a
| plated ruffof amethyst hued taffeta, which
| Stands out like any Medici collar and gives
| quite as good an effect. The ruff was
I double. one frill being slightly wider than
| the other, and both were bound with velvet
| in deeper hue. Last years coat would
| lend itself TO such treatment very easily,
and be made to serve nicely for ones best
| wrap.
| Another device in the way OF re-making
| old collarettes is one which has actually
been employed by young woman who
| is at once ingenious and economical. Last
| summer she had n brand new, black wool
| grenadne suit made over green silk, and
| a pleated chiffon cape to match. The
wool grenadine looks and is sufficiently
1 for %
| chiffon cape would be a little gauzy for
| cold weather. The present fashion OF
! putting lace and fur together indiscrim.
| inately came to her aid, and with the
SO which she had saved toward the pur
chase of a winter gown she bought enough
Persian lamh to form yoke affd an outer
layer for the Mcdici COLLAR The inner
| layer, next the face. wa 81 green velvet
| Upon this yoke she hung the body Of the
| cape-made partly of wool grenadine-
with its flouLces of green silk and chiffon
| exactly as they Were last summer She
is now waiting for Christmas to bring her
| the Persian lamb muff which would nat
urally go with it, for the green feather
and aigiettcs have already been trans
| ferred from the lace hat of last summer
to the velvet one of the present sea
, Son-audins only some 1oidS OF new Chiffon
and an edge OF futed mousseline around
| the brim.
Fur edges so plentiful that one hardly
| remembers TO mention them in tie de
soTiption OF q dress.
A skating costume is never complete
without its fur edges around neck and
! sleeves and the bottom of the skirt
An artist will hardly consent 20 draw d
picture of a girl on skates witho 1t the
conventional band OF fur to form the
wavy lines that swirl out past her ankles =
and he is right. For whatever may bt
said in favor Of the plain skirt for ortiinary
occasions. the one with an edge aroInt
the bottom is far more graceful for an,
| rythmic or swaying movement, such "A
| that OF either dancing or skating.
One Of the prettiest skating costumes