Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-05-30
TURNS To OLD LOVE.
SKIRTS POPULAR FROM 1850 TO
1890 ARE AGAIN IN HIGH FAVOR.
STRIKING NOVELTIES IN MASTLES.
AImost Everything That Is Suitable
Has Tuciss These Days-siIk md
dencc-Lace Aprons Once More.


NEW YORK. May ave are really
going 10 wear tho same style of skirt
that was popular from 1850 to 1860. What
is moro. In doing that We shall be wear
ing genuine Partisan gowns. for Paris
has at last caught tho Victorian era
craze and deves into ancient history
for modern styles. There is hardly one
gown which has a plain skirt. All.
however. are very charm.ngly arranged.
so much so. indeed. that one cannot IND
II in her heart to orlticise, even though
she may be opposed 10 skirt trimmings.
one OF the new skirts has black
satin foundation, covered with black
figured net. with five rows OF p.eatcd
lace ruching, about an inch and half
wide. carried around the skirt at inter-
yais to the hips. not in straight lines.
but in lines that point upward at the
back. This same skirt is repeated in
white silk. with satin stripes and same
o. tho new laces which are in fact. APP
pliQuc sprays on a net foundation. An
other pretty dress has blue and white
louiard skirt, arranged I'm hardly-per-
cepuble s0leil pleatings, with u frill OF
lace at the hem. and made Up over a
distinct silk foundation 1t has a grass
green front. The bodice IS made fun
back and front and trimmed deliberately
with lace on the left side.
Skirts are now wide and important.
and appear much fuller in tie front than
OF yore. They require most careful
handling and arranging. Fine clear
SILK Organdie muslins are now printed all
over with white designs. One of these
recently seen is a charming pink, made
over white silk. with five pleatings OF
lace al intervals, carried up tile voiumin-
Gus skirt The bodice OF this gown
IS trimmed with narrow, fnely-gomered
lace. which is also Introduced at both
edges OF the wider-lace ruching. Of an
ccTu tone. a fchu is worn with this
bodice. just crossing in front and meet
Ing a pink silk sash. The effect Is quaint
Ind singuiarly becoming.
Now as TO the sleeves we are going
to wear: They are so varied in style
that IL is only possible 10 mention the
chief characteristics of the newer ideas
First then they are unusually long, this
being accomplished by carrying the
sleeves far beyond the wrist IN trumpet
form. in tabs points. or other devices,
these being always supplemented by deep
1rills of lace, lisse chiffon. or the ma
terial Of the gown. The perfectly-plain
sleeve is not worn. There is always a
pun, an epaulette OF some description. or
frills. These latter stand out in line
with the shoulders supported by a small,
rounded piece Of canvas, bOrdered with
whalcbOne.
The very newest things in nantes
are made Of white china silk. with gay
flowers scattered all over it, This is
draped with black net, trimmed with
four or i've rows Of black velvet. q
large collar of the same, and a very
full frill of black tulle round the throat.
Some. for evening and carriage wear,
are trimmed with small flowers, such
as violets. rosebuds. forget-me-nots. \
very striking one. recently seen, was a
cape Of jet sequins over violet silk,
edged with a black net frill, partly
covered with rows Of very narrow violet
velvet. a large collar encrusted with
Parma violets. fell away from q smaller
one. edged with violets having a lining
Of gathered cream lace nesting against
the throat. The lace was carried down
the front cascaded on one side, and
hanging straight and plain down the
other The vioets were perfumed.
To be really fashionable one must
wear tucks. They are seen on every
thing. and the work on some OF the
new blouses and bodices is enormous.
Not only are Quarter-inch tucks set in
groups all over the bodice and up the
sleeves. but these are frequently supple
mented by n tucked bOlero and by groups
OF tucks on the skirt. Even low-cut
evening bodices are arranged with tucked
drapcries Of lisse. Sometimes the tucks
are horizontal, but more frequently
they are arranged 10 run around the
figure.
Blouses Of every description. but es-
peeially those made of silk or chiffon,
will be largely worn this season. An
attractive model in white chiffon is
trimmed with rows and rows of narrow
black velvet ribbon and butter
coored lace insertions. Colored chiffon
bloIses in every conceivable shade are
TO be seen In equally pretty styles. Some
of the daintiest ones are made in fine,
spotted muslins trimmed with narrow
lace edgings. particularly good model
IS made OF muslin, with pin-striped
ground in white and pale coiors. covered
with small. raised white spots. This
blouse is tucked on the sleeves, and
trimmed with frills which are edged with
narrow ecru lace.
Waist and banded bodices are quite
general, and are invariably worn under
the skirt. Where the new jewelled and
finselled belts are used. the skirt is set
into q fat band of silk. about one inch
in width, and IL this fits well the belt
prevents il from slipping Belts, by the
way, are a conspicuous feature this sea-
son. For cloth and stuff gowns there
are narrow belts OF white. ivory, or bis !
cuit-colored leather, either with buckles
covered TO match, or Of filigree silver.
Tlnsel belts I'm rocco style have eabo- |
rate fastenings in clasp or buckle |
fashion, heavily studded with colored |
gems. Then there are jewelled belts |
OF metal with lozenge and medallion
links, completed by a clasp or buckle |
OF larger size. The white leather belts |
are charming in conjunction with white |
facings and revers, and finished with |
white stock. make a plain gown OF cloth
Or serge extremely smart. Then, bcslie !
these. there are the palmer tartan belts |
with very simple clasps, and, perhaps !
these last are the most fashionable OF |
al.
1t IS settled beyond all question that |
this IS 10 be a season Of delicate mate |
rails over silk. and grenadine. chiiton, |
fancy canvas. muslin, and guipure VIII
be used for smart gowns, with Iace'
ribbons. and fancy trimmings galore.
But above all. lace is TO reign supreme
adding its finish to everything from the
delicate bows on hats and toques 10 the
founces on the silken petticoats we are
told that the fashion Of lace aprons IS
20 be revived, and that some very beau
tiful and most expensive ones nave al
ready been ordered Indeed. If report is |
10 be credited. one IN particular, beng
made in Brussels. OF exquisite design
and dciicacy. will cost $500. The size
md shape is not specified. but 1t would
probably tend toward forming tabler
Or the entire front Of a gown.
Here is a skirt which shows the newest
bent Of fashion. 1t is of green canvas
made with en- open-work hem OF drawn
thread work, and trimmed down the
'front.' and on the bodice with ruchings OF