The times., 1897-05-02


materials conducive TO the Joys OF July.
Grass linen and Iinon batiste have as
sumed their Ole place in our hearts, and
are being made up with iaces and efil-
broideries like other thin materials. 1t
is like getting a glimpse OF summer 10
,eaD intn Ina.,e...ss.:s's show rooin or one
of the large store windows. one can
easily Imagine the scene as 1t VIII be
one or two months hence The many
flounccs will be flutteIing in noun tain and
sea loIeezes. aud parasols and fans viii
once more take their Iightful places in
the hand of the coquette.
The time is flying very fast, and those
who have not attended to the question
Of q summer wardrobe VIII suddenly find
themselves suffering with the seorching
heat, while others are enjoying the thin
IIuIis and e4gandy waists that represent
the Unfit ofearly spring. 1t wih be very
easy matter for such as these 10 purchase
a shirt waist or two ali ready made, but
it will also be very expensive method
compared with whatitmight have been with
little providence and forethought.
The new shirt waists are made or the
thinnest OF materials, dimfdes and batlsteS
being the favorites. These goods are very
cheap, and the amateur will find 1t easy To
make pretty summer waists for herseif,
and the money thus saved will purchase
an extra ribbon To wear around the neck
stiff collars and cuffs are not tredufred m
this seasons waists, and this sifnpiifles
the process of making at the same uffie
that itlessens the laundry bill Shrtwalst
cuffs are made to turn back and may be
either plain or edged with pleatlng or
yalencfernes lace Stiff collars are being
slowly but surely discarded One is
usuaIlv sold with each waist, but is rarely
worn. as a ribbon takes its place so much
more comfortably and is more becoGaing IN
nearly every instance. One should lay in
plentiful supply of ribbons while The sales
are going on, as they will be found exceed
ingiy useful during the summer season.
The stereotyped measure for a ribbon
stock is one yard and q quarter. With a
little skmping one can get along with one
ward and an eighth The bow should be
made cree for all at one end OF the rib
bon and rot tied over and over again every
time hestock isput on. The quickest way,
when one is in a hurry, is TO tie the bow
with two loops and one short end; then
when the stock is fastened together an end
is left on the other side TO finish cut the
bow.
This can be done quite as quickly as
tying the bow with both ends, and the
ribion viii last much lenger Nothing
looks so untidy as a soiied ribbon, and on
the other hand fresh ribbon will make
shabby gown respectable; hence since
ribbons are cheap, it behooves sensible
people to have as large supply as pos
sible One can buy plain ribbons in solid
coIors for / 8 cents yard, and these viii
serve very nicely to wear with shirt waists
on hot days, though, of course, they are
not tie newest, else they would not be SO
cheap.
The new ribbons are either plaid or
striped, ard have so many colors woven
together that they can be worn with
gowns of any hue. These are used for
stocks, for hat trimmings, and FOR sashes.
Saslies are made with long ends and very
small Representatives not any,
In making thin dresses for summer, all
the prevailing fashions are modified. For
instance, if a boIero style is wanted it Is
produced by gathering wide flounee of
the goods into place on the waist. A
dainty little pink organdy made in this
manner has two pleated fIounces running
around the arms eye, looking partly like
extra fuIlness left from the sleeve, and
partly like a bolero.
The bodice underneath fits close to the
figure and has strip of lace insertion
appliqued in festoon form about the waist
The same festoons ornament the skirt
two rows OF them. Below and following
the same lines are three pltated ruffIes
There is a green ribbon girdle and sash,
and lace collar and cuffs. The hat worn
with it is green straw trimmed With pink
roses.
skirt trimmings are becoming more and
more elaborate. and very few OF them are
allowed to take a straight course. One
dress. with a panel front, has rows of in
sertion and lace flo0nees put on in Van
dykes across the panel Everything SLOPES
upward toward the back. If several
rows OF braid or velvet are used TO trim
the top OF skirt, they curve downin front
and slant up at the back, A blue dress
with a braid of pIeated null running mid
way around the skirt exempiifies this
feature of prevailing modes The pieated
band is about five inches wide aud sIants
UP toward the back. Under the bolero
bodice, which, by the way, fastens on the
left shoulder and is trimmed with a band
of pleating like that on the skirt, is
blouse OF saft, thin material, that is beited
in with satin girtile. There are pIeated
fans spread over the sleeve tops.
The idea ola thin under-bodice is carried
out in various ways. Sometimes il shows
below the over-bodice itlst above the waist
In other cases it is inserted in the neoks |
OF thick dresses TO brighten them as well |
as to make them cooler for hot weather
helictTope costume in ma DANES show J
room was provided with a whole bodice |
Of pieated batiste, which gave it o. very |
cool, sUmmery look, notwithstanding the |
Eton Jacket effect of the heiiotrope waist. |
This jacket bad a broad collar that turned |
away from the neck, leaving the shoul-
ders uncovered exceptby the batiste waist.
The collar was trimmed with braid and |
edged with a pieating of batiste. The |
braid trimming was carried down on the |
skirt TO simulate jacket effect.
SurpNce styles and t0aices that fas- |
ten up on the left side are very prevalent /
among the new dresses. A tlress of black |
and pale blue has barrel Eton jacket |