The record-union., 1897-03-14

large square plaid, is worn with sash
of black grosgrain and trimmed by
bertha of real Irish lace. Cashmere
gowns in delicate shades have elaborate
patterns done in the tiniest of velvet
| ribbons.
| Among the minor additions to spring
| gowns imported, or made by high class
modistes. are noted very small pad bus
ties and rather narrow graduated dress
| extenders. formed variously of moreen
| covered with silk mohair or rustic per-
| caline Small steels are formed TO
| hold tinv wire hoops about four inches
| in diameter and these keep the extend
| err gracefully curved and in perfect
| shane at the back. On the front the
| skirt is flat and narrow in shape.
Touues. by which are meant bonnets
without strings, are just now more es-
teemed than hats for dressy after
! noon wear Many of the new toqueS
are exceptionally smart looking, one
of the models looking very like the tur-
ban of an Asiatic. with the inevitable
this ornament are tall ortrich plumes,
| j
which. curling over describe rather
graceful arch, extending from little
| to the left of the face and falling over
| the top of the toque to the brlm. Other
more fanciful styles are made of col
| ored Velvets-viOlet, sage, moss and
| reseda. green, cerise and black in COM
bination of orange and black Very
| beautiful natural looking violets, with
| leaves and stems apparently trif1e
wilted, exquisirely shaded and very
| family perfumed, are still the great
rage as a garnture for elegant spring
hats and bonnets.
: But milliners must, after all, follow
| the hairdresserS' lead, and toques seem
hardly the sort o. headdress that can
J at all becomingly be worn with the
| hair arranged several inches higher
than the crown of the head-a style
| that gives a quaint old-time look to
| the women who adopt it. Portraits
| painted in the earlier years of this
century give a very good idea of the
| fashionable coiffures as we see them
to-day. The hair is carried to the crown
of the head tieu, or fastened there with
| strong pins and then formed into puffs
and loops Irish diamonds or smaller
French brilliants made into various
shaped combs and ornaments are used
to support and keep the stately Golf
| fure in position.
| And now comes the disagreeable news
| that in foreign fashion centers sloping
shoulders are to reign. 1t is said on
undoubted authority that the leopard
| cannot change his spots nor man add
| one cubit to his stature, yet will the
modern exponent of fashion exercise
her ingenuity IN the alteration of ana
| tony above the shoulders. For many
years We have worn our shoulders up
to our ears, SO to speak. Now all is to
| be changed, and the fashionable wo-
| man must assume the virtue of sloping
| shoulders, though she have it or not
! Seams from neck to shoulder point are
| to be heightened, and all fullness that
remains in the top of the sleeve will
tend in a downward direction. The
| shoulders proper will remain where
| they are, but will look as if they had
received a direct impetus toward tie
elbow.
| Regarding millinery, there is yet much
to learn of what the French designers
have in store for the future, including
the all-important Easter models.
| Enough. however. is assured to make
the statement first, on the practical side,
| that the sailor hat will keep the even
tenor of its way for the spring and sum
mer. 1t is here already in its severe bu,
natty outlines and new colorings, and
| -
spring maiden. with her tailor costumes
of cloth and tweed. any more than ii can
be renounced by the summer girl with
her cycling, tennis and countless other
| outing suits For these who still retain
a preference for the larger picture hats
| there have been presented some very
stylish and novel varieties by exclusive
| milliners When shown, they are
| brought from hidden sources in satin
paper boxes. with Q certain undesirable
flourish which Madame or Monsieur
gives to no other creation in chapeaux
! These elegant head coverings, how
ever. are for special exclusive wear. and
in no way take the place of the smaller.
| less elaborate styles. the toque. the
| French yuroan. and a pretty modifca-
| ton OF the English walking hat being
again on the list of the approved, and
| asserting their position as popular
headwear. The toque is rounder in
style than formerly, and is consequently
more generally becoming than the OBJ
| long shape proved. The medium sized
round hats for general wear are but
slightly changed in outline of either
crown or brim. and are to be found al
ready in both light and dark fancy
straws, or in plain. handsome Milan
braids French felt shapes, exqussitely
| fine, are shown in great variety. The
new spring inp1rtations are velvet-like
in quality and beautifully dyed and fin
ished. The chief features are slightly
heightened crown and the greatly varied
| widths of brim.
There is n rage for tucked bodices of
silk or very light wool materials. and for
the summer organizes. swiss, muslins.
India linons. and other thin textiles. The
upper portion ~ the bodice will he
tucked in groups OF three or five. with
| bands of insertion set between to form