davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
Devices Which May Be Found Useful in
Tiding Over the Old Gowns Until
After the Holidays.
RETURN OF THE FLOUNCED SKIRT.
Hints to the Girl Who Aspres to be Greek in Her Style.
An Oriental Touch-.-Empire and Vatican Styles of
House Dresses Hold Their Own

show themselves and we may soon look
for reds and puppies. Economical folks
who want to be in fashion have taken
10 sewing the good parts of old wells
together for these great scarfs that are
nothing less than net nubias. The
seams do not show, because they gen.
orally come where the veil crosses, or
where 1t passes around the neck, or are
tied up tight and invisible in the knot.
The righteousness with which every
bare spot Is filled with trimming and
every edge bound and adorned is no.
where exhibited in so marked a degree
as in the new old-fashioned skirts that
are f'ounced all the way up from the
ground to the waist. One black silk
gown that looked as If 1t might have
been Mrs. Noah's best gown brought
out of the Ark paraded itself on q
pedestal in the show room of one Of
New York's leading importers as the
latest thing in French costumery. 1t
was black gros-grain silk and it's skirt
was flounced with three-inch ruf1les
that were bound with black velvet rib
bon and these velvet edges were in
turn flounced with tiny edges Of mar
row, black Valenciennes lace. There
WtIc dlSO IluIIOW IulllcS vi TIE upper
part of the bodice, but around the
waist the gown was tightly fitted with
out the suspicion of blouse about it.
Another one, which would have suit
ed Mrs. Shem or Japhet perhaps, for
being slightly more in keeping with
present ideas in dress than the forego-
Ing was also black silk, and it's skirt
was banded with yards upon yards of
black velvet ribbon in varying widths,
some of which were two inches wide
others only half an inch. The bodice
brought 1t up to date, for it had a
pouched front and was otherwise quite
modern in it's style.
Everything points toward a return to
the dark age Of ''tilters" and such like
horrors in woman's dress. The silk pet
ticoat with it's ruflle widening up to-
wards the waist in the back is provided
with a tie back and a stiff wire at the
the Elton jacket is refreshingly in keep
ing with the styles to which we are
accustomed,
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
PETAL WORK BASKET
Looks Like q Dahlia and Can Be
Used on the Dresser
for Trinkets.
ONE HOURS WORK.
The Pattern is PentagOn and
Here Are Directions for
Cutting 1t.

The Petal basket is good trinket
holder as well as light work basket,
and is made of circular base card and
three pieces of goods so placed that
when the centre five points are drawn
up they form one capable pocket, which
gives firmness to the whole structure,
with ten convenient petal shaped re-
ceptacles round the centre, the whole
being shaped up for use, or laid fiat in
moment. by the tying or untying Of
one cord or ribbon.
The material is one thickness Of
checked ginghar1, or plain linen, which
may be white or colored; all three
pieces are precisely alike, and their
shape is that of a pentagon, or figure
with five equal sides; each one of the
five points being slightly rounded to
form curved tip to each petal.
To make the pentagon, different
methods can be pursued; the col
lege graduate, or woman with a
mathematical friend of the male per-
suasion who possesses a regular draw
ing board, compasses, paper, ETC.,
etc.. will in person, or by proxy, make a
circle 141s inches in diameter and by
producing" lines from A to B, and
thence to G and so on, finally evolve a
pentagon of the size and shape set
forth in the accompanying table.
The ordinary woman will do nothing
of the kind, although her pattern will
be just as good for all practical pur-
poses. She will so to the sewing table.
or perhaps borrow a corner of the
kitchen table from the cook. and then
do as the ordinary woman did who
made the sample shown.
The method is as follows:
First spread out clean, smooth piece
Of wrapping paper, about Is inches
square, then take a piece of card or
folded paper, about three-fourths of an
inch wide. and or 8 inches long: make
three dots on this card, one being at
one end, the second III inches from the
first dot, the third dot ~ inches from
the first. With a drawing pin, or
tack, pin the end of the strip
through the first hole, down to the
table, in the very middle of the square
/ of paper. Now make a hole in the
end dot, push the point Of the pencil
through the hole, then carry the PEN
Gil all round till you have a circle which
will be 141a inches in diameter. Then
make a hole through the second dot,
push the pencil through, and carry 1t
round, so getting three-inch circle,
which will be a guide for the placing
of the small base card.
To get the side lines: place ruler
on the line of the outer circle 80 that
YOU can measure 81a inches in q
straight line between the points where
the ruler touches the circle; carefully
mark the places; mark a second, third.
+o,r+I oud fifth side SPACE in the same
manner, then when you have the hve
even divisions, draw line between
each two marks till all five sides rcs
drawn and the pentagon is made.
To get the marks for guides as to the
sewing together of the pockets;-marls
the exact middle of each side; now hold
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
The Roman Saturnalia.

The Roman Saturnalia were held at
the season corresponding to our holiday
period. The Roman festival was char
acterized by extreme license. For the
time being slaves were free to speak
and act as they pleased. and all classes
were on an equality. The evil effects
of the Saturnalia were felt in many
ways. Robbers took advantage of the
season of masquerading to plumber
houses, while many prominent persons
were assaulted and beaten in the
streets, and sometimes murdered bv
their enemies disguised as MASQUERADE
ers. Long before the time Of Christian
ity, the Government Of Rome made eff
forts either to suppress or to regulate
the riotous festival, but with little ef-
feet; and during the time of the EN-
perors the disorders were more marked
than under the republic.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
PETAL BASKET, WITH DIAGRAM.

the ruler with it's edge to the middle
mark of one side, and the other end OF
the ruler to the opposite point, then
draw a line from the edge of the small
circle to the middle of each remaining
side, five in all. Now cut the pentagon
out, round off about one-fourth of an
inch or a little more from one point.
then make the other four exactly to
match, so as to get the tip Of each petal
nicely shaped. This completes the pat
tern. Cut out three pieces of ma
terial exactly the size Of the pattern.
also a three-inch diameter circle Of
card.
Bind each one of the three pieces Of
material with wash ribbon SO that
there is no particular right or wrong
side to the binding, and mark centre
and side lines for sewing.
To make up: lay two pieces exactly
over one another, with the centre card
between them. Tack the card in place;
then machine or brier stitch along each
side line. Now take the two pieces
sewn together, and lay them as if they
were one piece. with each petal tip pro-
iecting over the centre Of a straight
side in the lower piece round the base
card, letting all be perfectly flat. 1t il
we'll at this point to turn the work over,
so that the lower piece is uppermost;
then machine or brler stitch to match
the rest, along the straight line in the
middle of each side in the lower piece.
Joining the lower and intermediate PEN
tagons together. Brier stitch OF sew
around the base card to keep 1t in posi-
ton; turn the work right side up again.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

Such time as the busy and generous
woman is able to spend upon her own
appearance In these days of gift m. =
ing Is devoted chiefly to the tiding over
Of the old gowns until after the holi-
days. Nobody has time to plan new
dresses now, unless 1t is the Paris
gown which is to be presented to the
daughter Of the house. and In that case
no planning is necessary since the
French costumer attends to that him
self.
There is no end to the pretty devices
designed to cover the failings Of last
years left-overs. Some Of these make
pretty evening waists for theater and
'at home gowns. Here Is one, for ex-
ample. which requires about yard
and half of ACCORDION pleated NOUS
seline. The one I have in mind has
white mousseline. with black ribbon
edge. and it is about six inches wide.
Two rows OF this are used to make
capelets or epaulets over the shoulders.
the upper one setting little farther in
on the shoulder than the other and be-
Ing headed with band and bows of
blue and black striped ribbon, which
10 fastened on each side of the front
with Strauss buckles and then hangs
In stoles below the waist. The same
ribbon forms a stock with loops and q
ruff Of mousseline at the back. This
makes a very pretty theatre waist of
the plainest OF waists-in fact, the
palmer, the better. 1t 10 easily trans
ferred from one waist to another, and
II required for an evening waist, can
be worn without the stock.
Long flchus with pleated edges are
great favorites for evening or after
noon wear at home. Null ties in pale
tints are made striking and effective by
the addition of a black pleated or
bows under the chins OF stylish shop
pers. But now the blues and browns
TO match the gowns have begun to
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
Born Christmas Eve,

On the evening Of December "a sew
aral noted historical characters were
born.-among them Galba. John of Enc
land William Warburton, the critic
George Crabbe, the poet, and Eugene
Scribe, the French dramatist. On the
same day died Vasco da Cana, the
great explorer, Nine. de Genlis, and
Hugh Miller. the geologist.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

and artistic loneliness by putting Ter
self into such a gown as the one Just
described. The experiment is cheap.
and II there even is a possibility Of be-
ing beautiful only in the seclusion OF
ones own home. that should be suffi-
Gent satisfaction to be worth the trial.
ANNE LAURIE WOODS.
Copyright, 1897. by Bachelor Syndicate.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

but 1t Is quite as we'll suited to the fes-
ttvities of Christmas evening.
The method of arrangement is as fol-
lows: All the gifts for each member OF
the party are carefully packed and
labeled before giving them to the two
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

bottom, which together give that
dandling swing to the feminine walk SO
much affected by our grandmothers.
The gown in the illustration has
more modern appearance than some OF
the other late French importations. It
the bodice. with ts soft. puffed front
and its velvet straps and buckles on
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19
Bees and Christmas.

In Devonshire. England, messenger
is sent from the house of the farmer to
tell the bees that Christmas Day has
come. and they are supposed to greet
the glad tiding with joyful hum.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

member Of the household finds on his
plate card bearing his name, to
which is attached a long cord OF ribbon
leading. he knows not whittier, but he
is told that if he follows up the clue
thus given he will. at the other end Of
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1897-12-19

AS a rule the cobweb method of dis
tributing gifts takes place on Christ
mas morning, at the breakfast table,
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15

FORAGE CROPS.
What Crops to Grow For Feeding Next
Fall and Winter.


Indian corn, when properly planted
and cultivated gives the largest yield
Of forage Fer acre Of any Of our ordinary
crors. Therefore corn should furnish the
foundation for fall and winter feeding.
Plant in drills, kernels eight inches In
the row, the largest or most rapid grow
ing variety of corn, which will. pass the
milk stage before the first frost usu-
ally occurs. Before the corn comes up
cultivate and harrow, thereby stealing
a march" on the weeds. In ten days to
two weeks cultivate, or if on sandy, light
land harrow instead. Every ten days
thereafter until the corn has all tasseled
out cultivate with an implement which
has more and smaller teeth than those
in common use, taking care to cultivate
deeply at the beginning and more shall
low as the season progresses. DO not
hill the corn Thus writes an eastern
correspondent Of Country Gentleman,
authority for the following:
In addition to this, prepare Ill the best
manner possible one Or more acres OF
clay loan land and give dressing OF
from 20 to 60 bushels per acre of quick
lime on the surface after it is plowed
Plant mangels carly in drills 80 to "a
inches apart. Run hand cultlvator
through one or more times when the
| plants are large enough to bear it. After
| that cultivate with the horse hoe thin
and dress UP with the hand hoe. From
| this time Oh mangels are as easily raised
as corn, provided the preliminary work
has been done well. 1t may be well to
run the hand cultivator through just be-
| fore the plants appear above ground II
| the seeds have been planted SO that the
rows can be readily followed Thirty
tons Of mangcls per acre should be Sc
cured Forty tons is il large yield. Since
more or less hand labor is required i'll
raising roots it is economy to raise the
40 tons on one acre instead OF two
If there is any vacant ground unseed-
| ed, cat, wheat stubble and the like,
pillow it as soon as the crop has been re-
moved, cultivate occasionally until Aug.
to 10 and SOW mixture Of one bushel
Of peas, one Of barley and OnC of rye
Der acre. The aim should be to keep the
land covered during the entire season
with young, vigorous plants of some
| kind.
If the corn is used for cnsilage, it will
naturally come off early, and it is wise
to start second crop Of some kind at
the time the last cultivation is perform
ed Here may be used turnip seed, GRIM
son clover or barley and peas sown from
horseback ahead Of the cultivator. This
last cultivation should be at least two
weeks later than the time usually Sc
lectod for Laying by" the corn. If the
corn has not been planted too thickly
and the land is kept i'll proper filth and
is fairly fertile, a large quantity of val
| liable fall feed may be secured from the
| same land that grew the corn.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15
The Infamous Wool Schedule.

The senate computations of the equiv
alents for Dingley bill rates on WOODEN
goods OILY need to be stated They
make opposing argument unnecessary
III the mere reading. For example. tho
rate Is % per cent on second class wool,
2S9 per cent on garnetttd Waste, $50
per cent on shoddy, Ill per cent on
woOlcn cloths valued at not more than
so cents per pound, l67 per cent on
blankets more than three yards IL
length and valued ut not more than 90
cents per pound, 2l2 per cent on shawls
valued 1T net exceeding 40 cents per
pound, Isl per cent on knit fabrics val
ued at not oxcCt ding 80 cents per
pound, 2JI per cent Gil hats Of wool val
ued at not more than 80 cents per
pound. 4l9 per cent on fclts Of the
same value. III per cent on pushes
valued 1t not over 40 cents per pound,
and ia per cent on the aggregate Of
woolen carpets.
The people Of the United States could
better afford to buy every sheep III the
country and to put every shepherd ca
the pension list than to submit them
selves to such shameless plundering -
Philadelphia Record
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15
~ license to steal"

That must have been embarrassing
Information to the United states senate
which StLtlstlcl;.n Carroll d. Wright fur-
nlsIlcd that body last week concerning
the Labor cost Of lumber III this country
and IN Canada. Ills ti9ul"# showed that,
while the average wages il Canadian
sawnllls is 81 i ANA ::l.1l pr day
here, IL" average labor cost OF 1000
feet Ct luE.t,r is s.. - IN Car.t.a and
only 81 COTS =. Il lie deer .-cd cost
CT pICuUe ton ii this country l. ,.ttrib-
uted to the superior machinery used
OF couIS" the figures prove the free
trade contention that the rate OF wages
paid does not Indicate the cost Of pro
dUCtlon-ttat low wages are very often
more expensive to employers, and vice
versa. But these hard facts furnished
by an officer Of the government will not
dlssuade the lumber barons from their
purpose TO get Il tariff Oh Canadian lurn-
Der SO that they can the more etfectually
rob American consumers pr0tcctionists
care nothing for facts What thew want
Is license to steal. -NatiCnal Single
Taxer.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15
+. - \, A.. {.

....;..: {. .-';:... ref &c.. ...,-I.. Ail,
is L:..,.i4 ;.~n,:'! TIC :. i;..!. j lll y.
rrop~..,t ~ :l5, $50 ia 4 l"T'lt.NlcH
fish !lat5Ae-S IL t:l,>t Este.
Tie thorough ucclilu:;tizaticn Ct t."
Mcn1oli;n pheasant i'll Massachusetts, is
reported by a correspondent who recent
" visited one Of the fish and game
commission - of that state, 1T hi! home,
il Winchester.
Massachusetts is the first state that
has arranged to spend a large amount OF
money in stamping out tuberculosis i'll
cattle, $3.50, 900 having been appropri
ated The National Stock1nan says,
"Thcre is no danger Of Massachusetts
or any other state being able to stamp
out tuberculosis, no matter how much
money is appropriated for that purpose. y
4 ViGr ire l,ill is before the Massa
chlisctts legislature.
The Massachusetts Horticultural SOci
city Off, Is for 1897 prizes for school gar
lcns Of So, 3l2 and $40; for school her
bariums, II from 81 to $! III q number
Of different Glasses, aud for childrcn's
herbariu,ms, about 40 different prizes
varying from 90 cents to IS. Special
prizes are also offered. ". +. &. Rich,
secretary, 50 Moreland street, Roxbury.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15

The button manufacturers, present
and prospective, are unusually greedy
in their demands for tariff duties. Nc
Kinley duties are entirely too slow for
the button infants. The following is
part Of statement made by button i'm
porters:
The proposed duties on buttons, as
per schedule of the finance committee
Of the senate, are as a rule prOhibitory
and would prove a severe hardship on
goods used by the poorer and middle
classes, and also to manufacturers Of
various garments used by the mass Of
our people, such as low priced shirts.
underwear, clothing, etc. The follow
ing data will give some idea Of the in
equalitics of the proposed duties:
Agate Buttons-Prcsent duty, also
Mckinley bill, % per cent proposed
duty Of one-twelfth Of l cent per line
per gross, plus o per cent ad valorcm,
would average from 81 to 16l per cent,
bearing heaviest OH the class of goods
that make up the great bulk of the i'm
portations. The following schedule,
taking the styles that sell, shows the
range proposed:
WHITE LENTILLEs ON CARD SOLD TO JoBBISG
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15

The AntediluYian,

Mrs. Mary Ann Reed, who died at
the Hartford Retreat For the Insane the
Gthcl day at the age Of 90, had been in
the Institution for SO years. She was
the little lady" referred to by Charles
Dickens in his American Notes" The
passage relating to her is as follows:
81 am an antediluvian, sir. I thought
the Lest thing 10 say was that l had sus-
pectlI rs much from the first. There
fore l said SO. 1t is an extremely proud
and pleasant thing, sir, to be an antedi-
luvian,' said the old lady. I should
think it was ma am, rejoined. The
old lady kissed her hand, gave another
skip, smirked and sided down the gal
lery in a most extraordinary manner
Her delusion was a pleasant one, and
she was always amiable and docile.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15
DEAFNESS CAN NOrBE CURED.

by local applications. as they cannot reach
the diseased portion of the ear. There is
only one way to cure deafness, and that is
by constitutional remedies Deafness i.
caused by an intlamed condition OF the
mucous lining of the eustachian tube.
When this tube gets intiamed YOU have a
rnmbling sound or imperfect hearing, and
when 1t is entirely closed deafness is the
result, and unless the inflammation can be
taken out and this tube restored TO its nor
mai condition, hearing will be DESTROYED
forever; nine cases out of ten are caused bd
catarrh, which is nothing but an infancy
condition of the mucus surfaces.
Wewill give One Hundred Dollars for
any case ofdeafness (caused by catarrh that
cannot be cured by Halls Catarrh Cure.
Send for circulars, free.
F. J. CHENY & CO., Toledo, O.
IA sold by Druggists, 15c.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15
The Declaration of independence
Saved by Woman.

In an historical article recalling the
destruction Of our National capital by
the British forces in 1914, Clifford
Howard in the July LADIES HOME
JOURNAL will show that Dolly Madison,
the most beloved and popular woman Of
her day, was courageous and fearless i'll
the face of grave danger. In the mad
stampede from Washington, that pre-
ceded the invasion by the British troops,
Dolly Madison WAS the last to seek
safety in flight, and her final act before
quitting the White House, as the enemy
advanced, was to seize the Declaration
OF Independence and carry it with her to
place Of safety. As the White House
was Immediately afterward looted and
burned by the British, Mr.. Howard
declares that but for brave Dolly Madi-
son the priceless parchment would have
been destroyed.
The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1897-07-15

The steamship th1fhnm VIII b" pIac'u
in service ON tins occasion aud the ser
vice will be fr-t-class in every respect.
Meals and staterOOin berth on steamer,
going and return, will be furnished
holders OF these special excursion tickets,
without extra charge. The capacity OF
the steamer Is of course limited and
application for reservation should be
made as early as possible i'll order to
secure the best accommodation :. y. L..
Ticket Agent at Atlanta, Ga, will make
reservations and furnish number OF
rooms occupied. The Passenger Depart
nent of the SeabOard Air Line at Ports
mouth, Va, has issued an attractive
Itinerary OF this trip, copies OF which
will be furnished upon application to
any :. 4. l.. Agent.