davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

of the back and front wide band of white
embroidery over orange silk going down,
with Il vandyke of black velvet on each
side. The sleeves, gathered at the sea m,
bouffant at the top, waist band of orange
silk with small bow standing up at the
back.
A good gown of black satin-made
here-has on the skirt series of three
frilis of accordion-plaited scarlet tulIe :;
the black bodice is covered with the tulle.
and the square neck is outlined with a
row of the brightest Grim peoples. with
velvety black centers. The belt is of black
satin. Such com binatIon is correct at the
present nom tent when a dash of crimson
Is declared the thing about almost every
costume and hat; indeed so greatly is it
In favor that l hear of one leader of lash
ion who has ordered a complete set OF
crimson lingerie, as that color is most be-
coming to her. / certainly do not care for
such fads IN underwear, preferring white,
the palest blue or delicate pink. Even
gloves are stitched in crimson, entire para
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
HoW to Lift Our Skirts.

AT least dozen times L have wished to
touch on this topic but could not satisfy
myself that had made my explanation
lucid, but Vogue covers the points l de-
sired 10 make clear in these few lines:
Throw the extra back fullness of the
skirt over the back OF the hand (Which
should be closely and placed as handle
at one side of the body and slightly bend
the forearm forward. The fullness of the
skirt will thus be found 20 remain in
place, and will not cause the fatigue to the
nand and wrist that one experiences In the
old way OF holding so much weight of
material in the hand. This is decided
saving on gloves, since it does not stretch
them, or soil them, or cause the hand to
become oyerheated, and skir;s lifted in
this way look much more graceful than
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
Three Periods.

Those who have enjoyed weekly the
bright and witty stories told by A bert ID.
Vandam doubtless were given food for re-
Election when they read this paragraph:
women who have not had the COM
mand of money all their lives, and who
suddenly find themseiv able TO spend
large, or comparatively large, sums on
dress, provided dress appeals to them,
generally traverse three periods. They
begin by ordering extravagantly and in
iscriminatingly, f1inging money broad
cast. Then period of discrimin alton
one might say of deliberate hypercriti-
cism- SETS in. which costs TO the full as
much as the first. They no longer wish
to look like every one else, but aim at ex-
cluslveness of material as well as cut
The third period is the attempt 10 replace
the waning charms by every means the
milliner, dressmaker and nalrdresser can
suggest, and at no matter what cost"
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
DESCRIPTION OF HAT.

with white SATIN, and rested on a thick
ruche of white satin ribbon. The train
was adorned on the left side with a twist
of pink tulle, held in at intervals with
pink ribbons. On the left side was long
trail OF white lilacs and roses that followed
the side seam of the train. The low bodice
was really delightfully."- pretty, being of
pink and white tulls ornamented with
flowers.
Ball dresses are being made in large
numbers of white or colored tulle in Paris.
London and New York. The tulle is
literally covered with spangles, and is
draped or pIeated over white or colored
slips. The skirts are round, and the
bodices lavishly trimmed with tuile and
the most wonderful of artificial flowers;
and this season great advance has been
made in the art of manufacturing flow ers;
indeed, it may be almost said that man
has succeeded in rivaIing nature in the
perfection OF his hanuiworx, for blossoms
never reproduced before are now 10 be had.
and our favorites-the roses, violets,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
Shoe Euelets.

There are many things which are. sold
by the gross and not few that are sold
| by the thousand, but there are not many
| that are sold by the million Among the
things that are so soil, however, are shoe
eyelets.
Shoe evelets are made of brass by ma
chimes, whose operation is almost entirely
automatic Three or four machines are re-
quired to produce the eyelet in the form In
which it is sold the brass being fed into
the first machine in thin, fiat strips. As
sold to the sheen anufacturer the eyelct
Is turned down at one end only. The eye
lets look as much as anything like so many
little hats with narrow brims and without
any tops in the crowns. The upper end
of the crown, which is like the end OF
little cylinder, is put through the eyelet
hole in the shoe. the finished brim or
hange of the eyeiet resting against the
leather upon the outside. After the eye
let has thus been put in place its inner
end is turned down upon the leather by
machine made for that purpose. In the
manufacture of the eyelets mum Der of
very slight vertical indentations are made
at equal distances apart in the outside OF
the eyelet around the smooth, straight
end. When the shoe machine smashes
down the inner side of the eyelet the
metal parts at these Indentetions and is
spread uniformly, thus giving 1t secure
hold.
Eyelets are made of various sizes in di-
ameter and OF various lengths of shank or
cylinder, according to the thickness OF the
material with which they are to be used,
and after they come from the machines
they are finished in great variety. Some
are finished white-these are silver plated;
some are gilt finished aud some are cop
pered. Eyeiets are japanned in black or
In various shades OF russell. They are In
fact made in any size and of any color
that may be desired. Sooner or ter the
iapanning wears off, exposing the brass.
There are now ma lie shoe eyelets that are
covered with celIuloid, which keep their
color, but these are much more expensive
than the kind monty used.
Shoe eyelets are packed in boxes con-
tanning 1000, 10 900, 100000, go, 0O0 and
commonly used are sold, according TO
sizes and styles, at prices ranging from Sc
to $l35 million. Some of the celluloid
eyelets sell for as much as $500 million.
The sale of shoe-ey elets depends, of
course, somewhat upon the prevailing
style OF shoe. When bu:ton-shoes are
more generally worn not so many shoe
eyelets are sold, but the number sold is
always very large.
Eyelets are made for wide variety of
uses. up to the great eyelets that are sewed
into the corners of sails, through which
sail is lashed to the end of the boom or
yard. Taxing them altogether the num-
Der is enormous. OF shoe STYLES alone
there are sold in this country some thou
sands OF millions annually.-New York
Sun,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

1t looks more and more as If EN- broidery
was going 10 play a more important part
than ever in evening dress Plain skirts
will surely look conspicuous. The en-
broiGery is filling up the hiatus between
the absence of any trimming at all and
draped and trimmed skirts which are
coming our way-slowly it may be. but
surely.
The effect OF these long lines of fine
work in velvet, outlined with silver. crys.
tai and brilliants up the seams, is excel
lent. 1t gives height to the figure and i'm
portance to the skirt, part OF our dress
which during the epoch of voluminous
sleeves was somewhat neg lected, save only
so far "a fit and cut were concerned. At
present the balance is much more equal,
and this is greatly to our advantage. 1t
is fashion, too, that is kind to women
who are not tall, and is also not altogether
out of place with those unfortunate per-
sons who are inclined to stoutness, while
they lack in height.
OF course, there is wide range In en-
broidery, and a dress may be made as
costly as one pleases. but the idea is capa-
bic of being utilized by all of us whose
purses are as short as our wants are long.
Then, too. there are many effective sub
stItutes for embroidery. One of these,
which l can recommend, is chine gauZe
ribbon. The design may be outlined and
jeweled at home, and the effect is all that
could be desired. Then there are jetted
and jeweled gallons which may be used
over and over again.
1t is said. too, that before long tapering
sprays OF embroidery will be sold all
ready to apply TO the seams of the even
ing gowns. There are already those in
lace which can he wrought with brilliants
at intervals and thus made exceedingly
effective.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

when they are held in the hand. Ones
anatomy is also less liable to be empba.
sized, and it gives one an ease and GER
tainty that all the fullness is properly
looked after, while at the same time. petit
coat, ankles and shoes are more becom
ingly exposed. Even with care and atten-
tion and the appropriating OF suggestions.
such as the above, in spite OF all some
women return home from walk bedrag-
gled and begrimed, while a companion
does not ~
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
Eastern Novelties.

A bright mind has evolved a new idea
which promises to become very popular,
and deservedly so. 1t is called picture
dressing, and is the result of careful
studies made by modistes of portraits OF
women painted by famous artists.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

A handy sunshade or canopy for drivers
is formed of light metal or wooden
frame, TO be strapped to the body lust
under the arms and extending upward 10
support canvas top attached to a fat
frame over the head.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
The latest importations of plaid and
tartan ties are deserveily popular.

GOLF AND CYCLING SUITS.
There is to be a distinctive line drawn
this summer between golf aud cycle suits,
and briefly it may be said that golf
knickers will have quarier-cnffs of bod
cloth closing with four or five buttons.
Cycle knickers will not have auarter-cuffs,
but strap buckle at the knee. Many
men, however, will pay but slight atten-
ton to this distinction; not few like the
quarter-top and turned-over-top go'f hose.
and will not make the change at fashions
dictate. C' VI
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
Ginghanns and Examines.

They are. if possible, more dainty than
ever. Some / much admire have wide
pink and white stripes figured in MORE
effect. OF course all colors are obtaina BILE
and make up charminEly. In all the linen
shades are shown the Egyptian ard the
Lappett tissues, as we'll as in every tint
and color. These must all be made over
solid colors, presumably over silk slips,
although l see one writer says on this sub
iect: THE silk underdresses, however,
are no longer considered indispens sable,
and the colored lawns which are used in
stead do not cost nearly so much" Still,
1 advise you all to keep on using silk if
you wish such frocks to be success, for
the saving of few dollars will cause you
more annoyance than enough if you have
the usual experience with lawns.
Etamine in grenadine fleets is in great
vogue, and you can have it in plaids,
stripes, checks and in linen tints with
silken embroidery.
Those in mourning are welcoming, with
feeling of relief. the very handsome eta
mines, which are made over the best tat
feta silk for summer wear. They are de-
ligh.fully cool and comfortable.
So great is the beauty of the new bro
caded silks that both the young and old
will order them in large quantities for
dinner gowns, and the colored Examines
are sim ply bewitching on account of their
possibilities of combin atoms, especially
when ribbons and oriental EN- broideries
are artistically employed.
From Paris has just come a gown in
which lettuce green is used as good con-
trast to dark blue fancy canvas. The
double materials are novelties illustrated
by a pink figured canvas, with black
grenadlne interviewer on its surface. In
another French dress this formed the
skirt, sleeves and back of the bodice, the
full front being OF satin that matched the
canvas, and over it was a black lace
zouave with white lace applique and jet;
extending down the front was plisse OF
chiffon and butter-colored insertion.
which was also carried arount the throat.
Mohair canvas will continue in favor for
all dusty occasions and the kismet suiting
is to be extensively worn for golf and
bicycle suits.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18
Professional Golfers

Will shortly be in great demand as
women are showing more AMI more inter-
est in this most bealihful exercise since
they discovered how greatly it would
beautify their figures. Women who know
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1897-04-18

soils of scarlet silk are shown, but, except.
ing for use at the seaside or in the coun-
try, they are to be most carefully avoided,
being far too gay and conspicuous for gen.
eraI use.
Foulards are justly popular, so excellent
and cheap are they, and SO lovely when
handled carefully. One of our best-known
houses here has been selling them at so
cents per yard, and those offered have
been artistic in design and dainty in col
oring. Imagine how Sevres blue fou-
lard would look made with skirt plain at
the top. having three flounces round the
bottom EDGED with black lace and headed
with band OF white lace put on in seal
lopsl The foulard bodice tits snugly and
is beautitied at the top with wide plisses,
forming deep collar with white lace;
long gathered sleeves, with pleated
fiounces forming epaulets at the shoulders.
Gray is exceedingly fashionable, and
one chic gown of the new satin cloth is
made with "a basqued jacket which has
open fronts. A white satin band sncir.
cles slender waist and is secured in the
back with two rhinestone buttons. The
vest Is of white chiffon crossed jus.
below the neck with latticework of mar
rhinestone buttons. Toe vest is made
over white satin, but the lining of the en-
tire gown is of taffeta silk light green in
shade. Another visiting dress is made of
one OF the new soft corded woolens of tbs
fashionable smoke shade. The front of
the bodice displays lines of drawn thread
intermingling with rows of gold and black
EN- broidery, made up pinafore fashion
over white satin and chiffon. friil of lace
at the throat, and the sleeves arranged
with diagonal tucks in sets OF three. 1t
was accompanied by short cape, like
sacque backed coat with cape sleeves.
The bat was quite charming, black, and
was trimmed with the new brilliant gauZe
and black plumes, but made with doa-
Bile brim, having soft ceriss peoples peep
ing between the two.
Those in mourning are welcoming with
feelings of relief the handsome CLEANLINESS
which are being made over the best tat
feta silk for summer wear. They are re-
ported to make up stylishly and to be de-
| lightfully cool and comfortable.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05

my yeArs sz> t<ay Xt Jas H.
rgf mn Mr. k4iz2t,ss ~ I>.a1
rFfe sbitsf IN m.fsjszs. n ~ re.
tvh N Gs,fojItm W. D@azs mr.
W ,s4rs IN afl kz mlis IL Tae,.
bSZh besn INN ~ tia sr2gp3A ~ es.i,
. nine n otacb ar saB Bgtnz en-,
jt'doz dlvi IN tsear ID'asey Tas IN
- MID, Nlss rsnsl4 u oe,eze .,
Hs/sssff'fz . ~ ysss. ,Ll, sss;,
j>lazsts VI J W D~ays, n 7Aw,,
t,t/, II N y'ars IN T>,s s,s N
RIM Esll1,aa bsvibz he. Pm, nm.
fag gifa. g,aaaeblb4,ss ni.a tls,,
t'atostAs am nlyss, ne i.yisDl y,
etaesrmth tNsy " Sis.sz, n III
f%sN SASH tssfs pD.M IN ~, mn
trTfs s+sss1 q. me- ,slj. s1ss,s Vi,
SD9 1fs SzaHt IDnh1myealss
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05
oELISkAcZ 10 50
Z: ?':a!s.. 7;:s.i z...z AZ! L.rs.n,.

80. !. h. 5, ordained W the ,aayor .nd
r1tg9 n s.fsfHen u lie IOWA Of Macon.
'l&t u .hsI he unlawful i1r anY person 10
.tSD ssspglzbls agg.e ~ nome Of Dr0.
EililDB 70 .a5I town. Or ~ permit an.
sygss O1afl by amp q or nbder hi. her
~ ihstr csriFDi 10 be sept FOR The purpose
~ pDttitui01, ~ 10 -r-ut Or aes.e auy
2plts- room Or tenement to any per.0n or
lef.Dn., sbOHiBe Or having reason 70 be.
Iefs mat .ufb psr.rH or persons will
nee '1ea bouss pr r01m Or teusuen,
f1f '5s pGTpJ.s 81 prostitution. Or gLo will
PERM: others 70 do ~.
see 2 p. 1t i1rhei orl1ineJ tina, I,
.a1r BE- nnisHl8i s1r sny per-on % pe an
Inmate 81 arr bJus~ Dfii.faae. or ero.,itu.
t.bH of 70 be ionld 10 -ueh a house for
serd ~purposes
Zee. D. BE- 1t further ofdained thai, it
'tzi De uuiasfai Tor aHy wOtnan 'or .ald
ngn ~ pro.tiiuie H. vail ihf street. Of
.si1 own a'ter Zine g'eiOck At night. or at
any time 10 solicit any'per.on on the streets
o. iH any public place, 70 accompany her Or
70 meet her At any place for the purpose.
o. pY%0.titutIDn.
-sc. 4. Be ii further ordained. that If
mall BE- unlawful for any man 10 a--g.is,e
With any female known to he Or reptted to
be a prostitute.
See. 3 10 IL further ordai led that il
shsil be unlawful Tor any person 10 carry
any note, message. or 10 any way ard and
tssist any man VI wogIln 10 meet at any
plare for the purposes Of prostitution,
see. o BE II further 0ri1incI. that any
person U0lstlbg any oi the provision. Of
To-. ordinance .hs!I. upon ronyirtion he.
fore he mayor o. ,aid iovn. he fined IN
any sum not lees than one dollar nor more
than one hundred dollars or imprisoned in
The jail not more than thirty days. or BY
both such fine and Imprisonment.
See. I. Re II further ordained. that The
occasion bein. urgent this ordinance take
effect and be in force from ami after its
passage.
Approved by me this 4th day OF Nay. 1897
X. HAUESsTgrN,-
Mayor.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05
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Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05
~aczs [~sfs

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Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05

I'm esst 81 ypgr mir, ssh see,
bN>b Tsls boDeiy ueyerb atssz d.
" ,sb@asf yery ylgDtDysly IN a,e I'm,
~ me Ams,pe@1 D1v,pie Tsey ass nj
hfSlIy ssDgsjoe AMI h4XfaL He,eA,.
me h'Fy have fr,n1 II Dauvsseya,
sa,t W t"Aks q ~gaasrttaL5s Hying. A,
" fssalt NJ this fva n.sy have fallen IN
" s~stfMysxsnt babix, spsDdlng iyAi,
W. delIsr tsasy hsys sad that they ba.
" Hst Hsrssftsr ts conditions sra
KoiDg 10 be more dinscDit. Thnft il bs
esidng u necessity, Thu f4et may 4.
well bs recognized. This msn ary1 won
~ WIN despdss economy W somstbins
small sDd mean ARR bound N no h III.
Wal Wa wish 10 my especially N TN
'o''bd folks who are just starting IN IN,
fli1a " they sxpect 10 be comfortabl.
and happy In their old ags. Tiny must
learn betimss tis hard lesson Of seIf do.
uis'. Not for ons moment would WI
encourage them 10 bs niggardly or stin
ny, hnt W. box tbefn ~ bs prudent and
p~Fovldsnt. This rainy Day Ia sure 10
come - ashviIls Christian Advocate.
Macon beacon. [volume] (Macon, Miss.) 1859-1995, 1897-06-05
Bylaw. " the Business LsaQue.

J. Tn Dfyl%rs n sDs I<4zss shall bs
sffseds1s, tpo VIZ Presidents, h.
p9sf!Dg s%c,@&yy. CorresyoD1inz eAr.
rA&sy ~I Tfeaxgssr.
Tn sstsss ~ uge Presdsn. shall h,
" wtsSe ~ I'll mss4sDzs n the <agas,
"As@n yfssehs ssd ttca1s I'll q,sz,iDr,
n W1er, All " Ziys sfs cast,ng yo.e In
All e@+a Dten shsss IL w.. H. the al.
s%ss<, m 1iDqpA4GeSt3Dm, N t5s PREM
fest, aas fret ys4 pfesgisat sisIl dis.
,ASygs h< fetiss N ptss31tnt, and the
s1,sst1s N nm hss mi yie1 President
mail tl1hAsys sanb dn,iss,
III TLS fgtssa N thf Iu1uffing Hec
,ssary sbaH ~ " relBd ali ths uDceed
iazs N Ms Leaz1s, ssf Ilkswise n the
osffiAj I,mm1.t@, NJ whlch h. shaII
~ RI otkt5D sserstAsY H. shall re-
eAys MI non<ys pzsf by members N
>ns1n1tf ks@ps ,rnt szz,ant m the
sAtss, ssa bAy tb<m mn " ms Treas
WsH, hslBk HE fs<%3Ds I'm he sams
" The 1sAts N tiss Curssr1bdipV
S]eyAsyy sbsji Ia " elhdaet tbe e1y
rexrMdS11e N tss I<ax,iA aa1 N ksep q
rss~rd N VII s,ststses ami dsts, propsr.
iy ssbui&t~1 sS1 indsxs1, furnished by
committees, N otbTrwtss, ssd that
shsii ~ VI vi times Dpsn W ths insDsc.
nm N si nistsbsrs, and hs shall make
rsrtlhsf ~,piss frDa ths bDoks snd 70.
@,rds IN hls pfftcS VI request NJ sny per.
I'm, atd h@ may charge mi collect res.
s'hstle fsss I'm masking such certified
t~rsn%stptS,
V, Ths duties Of tbS Treasurer sbslI
bs " rscstys vi moi,sys dus ths League
st1 NY thsm out upon ths oydsr and
approval n tS President sa1 the treas,
ufsr may Nv repaired " 1ys hind On
security, Through . security company,
-h-n required w ne roYern.ng Con
mites,
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