The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1897-03-23
MEMS SPRING STYLES.
WHAT Will BE PROPER ron rms
SEASONS WEAR.
Conservatism Apparent In the Cut Of Cars
ments-Hnts. Neckwcar,
and Linen.


ton of the cutaway, or morning cot.
for business wear This, OF course, APP
plies to the coat OF that shape made
from cOlOred tweeds, homespuns and
cheviots, TO be worn with trousers OF tho
same material and waistcoat either OF
ditto or OF some fancy pattern ana dlfler-
ent cOior. The semi-sack, semi-reefer.
isfanother coat which has come into great
popular favor. Neither Of these garments
is strictly new, but they have been dc-
cepted very slowly indeed by well-dreSsed
men. Gray mixtures have taken ths
place Of browns. and the old blue serge
particularly with the REFERS, is again
coming into fashion. If it ever went en-
tirely out. Gray is the color for tire
spring season, and II Will be combined
with blue and not so much with red.
The sack coat is the favorite business
garment Of America. and its popularity
in this season and In the one to come
will never be diminished. This coat has
two side pockets. but no breast pocket.
and fits loosely TO the figure, is usually
worn unbuttoned Ii is single-breasted
The breast pocket IS, IN fact. entirely out
OF fashion. The pocket handserchle-
must be kept out of sight, and IN no
coat. OF whatever style. can there be more
than two outside pockets The froe@
coat. indeed. has none, the inside pocket
being the only receptacle for the hand-
kerchicf or card case.
The London tailors offer what they call
two distinct styles Of morning coats ore
very long in the skirt and sharpely cu
away. and the other shorter, about thirty
inches I'm length. Tall men have takeh 70
the cutawav business suit on this side y
the ocean, but In doing so they nave
adopted a happy medium. The length II
the coats Is about thirty-three c1es.
and they are neither long-waisted nor
full-buttOned.
In frock and evening coats there Is al
solutelv no radical change 10 rd,)rd.
All garments are made as moderately
loose as they are moderately tight. IL -
the absolutely conservative measure TX
aggoration Of any description VIII be
avoided. Trousers are stu in the peg top
STYLE and the cut is loose about the hlps
and tight in moderation on the legs. Very
tigh, trousers are as much ont of fashion
as those which are very loose.
The shirtings are certainly very gor-
geous. and the patterns contain cnecNs
and stripes OF all shades Of pink ana r'l.
The very wide checks and tartans which
are being exhibited by the leading shir.
makers are not being ordered as mucS
as quieter patterns, such as the hau
stripes and the solid blues and lavenI ''7,
I
has come 10 stay As usual. the GUNS W.
be the same material as the shirt itself
and the collars will be tall standing. The
aU-around turndowns have lost much OF
tbeir popularity with well-dressed men,
and as for the half-size turn-downs TO 30
worn with stiff bows they are promises
made by the haberdashers which VIII
not bear fruit with conservative per
sons. They are awkward, ugly and nave
"a cheap look that will hardly take with
| the better class.
In ties and neckwear generally there =
uttle that is new. For the spring the
ehops are showing a line Of pretty silks.
i'm pattern small figures of white on blue
! and black grounds. These are made Up
I'm bows or again I'm four-in-hands. There
/ has been much taking up Of the whlfe
Ascot or puff scarf. The material is whlte
,,arscilles or linen or China SILK, or =
heavier grade OF the same fabric Inc
tfe min Is placed well up I'm the scarf ana
the V formed by the two oyerlappih@
anrons is very narrow. WhiIe lWiilei
| silk has also been "A fayorite materlh ~
the Ascot. and these seem 10 De "ol
almost universally in the afternoons VIII"
| frock coats. - 80
| turn 10 the butterfly form Of tie for the
,orroyv hand Of cambria or lawn when
encircles our collars. The wlhss W.
,,,de eouare and somewhat large ana
tho body stiff and absolutely rectahsular'
Irvoning shirts have three buttons IN
etead OF two and the one shlrt sluu -
not gaining favor.
Never were the collars so high or so
uncompromsng, and the CUTS are aD. $50
! lutolv square I'm shape. Detachep 'uiia
| receive. as usual. the condemnation OF
q. tfa
! lars are allowed.
In England men seem to brave opin-
ton and 10 throw little color into their
| cIothes. This especially applies 10 ties
the murkv atmosphere Of London posi-
| hlv recurring some bright hue. The tar
fans and the plaids. in when the WIN
! .,ou.s az the New York shops are glar-
/ inelv gay just at present. make Fe'y
effective neckwear even for our clear'
| clean-cut atmosphere. In the bhBil II
| ,no.ronolis lust now one hears Of Indian
red. strong bluffs and sage-green, with
white or cOlored designs upon them, as
we'll as Of dark green foulard with stripes
as the most fashionable novelties for
four-in-hands and bows.
GRAY suede gloves have not lost caste
With smartlv dressed men. and have mold
their own as we'll as brown and tan Mos.
The reindeer glove. once such faY)ii-e
IS one Of the has-beens, and the dressy
| white kid has not proved the success cX-
nocted Of Il for afternoon wear. BY the
| time spring comes in earnest the white
kid except for the evening Will have dis
anDoared entirely At many weddings II
IS still worn In place Of pearl-gray but
II Is as vet a novelty OF an exotic charac-
ter which does not agree kindly with our
climate
1t is also from London that the news
| n the popularity OF the felt hat Is wait
ed There the very dressy young men
bove ordered hats 10 match the color5
~ their suits and grays OF several
shades as well as browns are I'm demand.
In ms country the extreme golhsts who
have derided the introduction Of the COM
rlote suitine-cap. Knockers and all-from
the readv-made dealer. are prepared 20
discard the cap and to wear according
10 another person. cotton hose instead
Of tho orthodox wooden. These changes
I'm attire seem 70 be inspired by the Anglo
American combination rather than BY
those 10 the manner born, After all. 1t
is a poor cad indeed who fears that be-
cause the roady-madc dealer has taken
I'D a garment he cannot afford 10 wear II.
There exists always the distinction be-
tween that which Is comnon and that
which Is the hall mark Of a gentleman.
and no vulgarity IS able 20 ehface Ii.
g,alors are discussing the making OF
Tuxedo semi-evening dress in gray cloths
In, innovations OF this kind are too ex-
,reme for the wel-dressed man. The tall
ors also tell US that low circular double
breasted dress waistcoats Of bright silks
yviu accompany the Tuxedo. but gentle
men avoid these very pronounced ideas.