The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-05-02
FOR FEMININE READERS
DECORATION CAUSES CHANGE IN
THE TAILOR-MADE GOWN.
what an Expert Cook Says of Eco
nOn.ieaI ~Buying-A Question OF Mon
ey THAT ConfrOnis Young Wives.

Although fashion has definitely declared
itself in the most surprising color har-
monies and elaborate details quite beyond
description. the secret of distraction in dress
at this midseason, when summer novelties
and fur trimmed winter costumes jostle
each other in the street, is found in the
tailor-made gown. says the New York Sun.
It certainly comprises all the much desired
qualities of appropriate attire; and while a
certain severity of style is always de-
manded in this kind of dress, the craze for
decoration has wrought a transformation
in The tailor gowns this season which does
away with any extreme plainness. Braid
ing embroidery. silk and satin folds, vel
vet ribbon, panels of silk and lace. all have
an inning at the t%ailor's, and tucks figure
largely in the fashioning of cloth gowns as
well as in thin muslin dresses.
Cheviots, serges, tWeeds. melton, Vene-
tian and smooth-faced cloths are the popu-
lar materials for this style of gown, but
canvas and other thin wool materials, with
a very loose and open weave, are also made
up by the tailors. In dark blue, brown,
fawn and black they make very cool, light,
travelling dresses, and the Scotch cheviots
mixed with three or four colors are espe-
cially desirable for this simple gown. Vene-
tian cloth in neutral tints, striped with
fine lines of color. and shepherds plaids,
are both on the list of fashionable cloths.
Basket woven cloths in checks of TWO col
ors are very pretty for the dressy tailor
gowns which are so very popular this sea-
son. The coat and skirt is still the pre-
vailing mode of cut, but the Jackets are
very short. in the Elton style, or with a very
short basque minus the flutes in the back,
which were so fashionable last season.
nh m-- %E-I4 - a. ~
loose or close i'm the front, and the Jacket,
which is used for an outside garment over
the shirt waist, has a loose hy front. For
those who prefer the extremely plain and
decidedly masculine style of costume there
are close, tight-fitting coats and round.
tight waists, turned back with a collar and
small revers to form a small V at the neck,
showing a high standing linen collar and
Tour-1n-hand tie. There are great POSSIBLE
round or pointed, long or short. The latest
of all are the long reVers pointing down TO
the waist line. The revers, too, are the
point OF decoration on these plain costumes,
and they are often covered with some con-
trasting color, and deliberately braided in
scroll patterns or striped across in, military
style. Moire silk in black. white and coEors
IS employed on tailor gowns for covering
the collars reVers and cuffs, and for a band
three inches wide around the bottom OF the
skirt, with possibly a small pattern of mar
row braiding on the upper edge.
Every possible variation of the Eton-
shaped coat is in order this season, but the
newest cut points down a little below the
belt on either side of the 'front.', which opens
enough to display the vest or blouse inside.
One cloth costume of this kind can be va
ried a Sreat deal by having a variety of
vests to wesS with 1t. White, colored and
spotted pique, n9de in the plain masculine
style, either single or double breasted, is
we'll lihedf for morning wear, but in more
dfesSy effects there is no limit to the di-
verSity. Velvet and silk vests, embroidered
with Jet, jewels, applique lace and silk
braids are not unusual with tailor gowns,
but the lighter, daintier kinds are more
generally worn. Cream lace net over white
satin, with a jabot frill Of accordion plated
ret down the front is a pretty idea. and
tucked linen lawn trimmed with maltese
lowered satins and linen, covered With
Oriental embroidery, are very striking, and
a two-inch fold of black satin peeping out
on either side of the one of the last ma
terial is very effective. Plain cream white
satin, tucked in groups, forms the vest in
a black cloth gown, and colored batiste, es-
pecially in the violet and -mauVe shades,
makes very pretty vests, with shirred or
plain tucks edged with narrow Valenciennes
lace. White MORE and yellow Liberty satin
on either side of a box plat. edged with
lace, and a stock collar to match, with a
soft bow in front. White chiffon. gathered
full and striped across with colored velvet
baby ribbon and lace, insertion, is always an
attractive vest.
Pique and linen suits made by the tailor,
with jaunty coats and plain skirts, are to be
very much worn later on. Braiding is APP
piled on these dresses very much as 1t is on
cloth gowns, but many of them are made
quite plain, with the reVers faced with some
contrasting color in pique, dull blue or red
on a white gown being very popular. Wash
silk waists are worn with these, and so are
any of the pretty false fronts which can be
easily attached to q plain corset cover that
VIII keep them always in place.. A narrow
belt with a fancy buckle is the finish at the