The record-union., 1897-01-31

lOES DTOlecllNe RUSSIAN TeQlIlSOleS VI
deep Danish red, Napoleon blue, Rus
sian green, or dovegray cloth, that are
made with medium sized muttOn-leg
sleeves and velvet cape collars edged
with fur. The majority of these gar
ments are open down the skirt front;
others are double breasted, with semi
loose fronts and closely fitted backs. The
skirts flare considerably, and some are
open up the back to the waist. They are
so heavy of themselves that they are
merely finished inside with lining satin
plain or fancy, and there are two rows
Of handsome buttons in front.
Among some very elegant and very
fashionable reception gowns opened just
before New Year week were Il number of
handsome models in dark Russian
green satin brocade, the bodice trimmed
With wide picturesque shoulder epaulets
and neck draperies of cream -colored
Honiton lace The waists of some of the
gowns in deep damask-red brOcade
were sharply pointed front and back
laced behind, and finished all around the
lower edge with a satin putting, and odd
attractive putting is arranged at the top
Of the half-low bodice, the soft folds
caught here and there with scintillating
jewel ornaments. The tops Of the close
ly fitted laced sleeves are similarly
draped. This model is called the Henri
II" It looks particularly elegant in vel
vets and rich brocades, there being a
certain air of severity about it that is
particularly attractive just now amid
the confusion of colors. ornate styles,
and the general tendency toward excess
and exaggeration in decoration.
Petunia continues to be very popular
color, the pinkish rather than the pur-
pie ones of the flower being Favored. a
cloth gown of this color has the skirt
ornamented with rows of stitching in
saddler's silk of the same shade, the
front of the bodice formed of pleated
corded silk dotted with gold. There is a
collar and pointed girdle of dark green
velvet, and the slashed puffings on the
close Queen Anne sleeves are Of the vel
vet With ghmpses of the dotted silk
showing between. A stylish skating
costume of petunia cloth has a chamois
lined bolero jacket of the cloth with
high collar and edgings of black Per-
sian lamb fur. The sleeves and skirt
border are likewise of the fur
The element of Savagery still mani
tests itself in the headgear of American
Womankind. The modern ornaments are
refined, deftly handled, and much more
gracefully combined than in war-paint
days but the beads and the feathers
are still prominent. The manner in
which fur, feathers, flowers, and SNOWY
ornaments are used together this VIM
ter on hats and bonnets, ds not admir-
able. The small geological gardens one
sees everywhere are decidedly bar"baric
III effect. and the conglomeration Of os-
trich tips, birds beaks and breasts
quiH feathers, sable tails, animals
heads and pelts, is not the outcome of
good taste, but a decided violation of the
fitness OF things material. AS for the
Wholesale slaughter of innocent birds. it
has at last been decided that ii is abso-
lutely no use to cry out further against
this brutal, inhuman sacrifice to fash
ion. Fashion is a Moloch who lives in
Vanity Fair, possessed of a vain head
and an obdurate heart, and therefore
protestatiorls and entrea ties on the score
Of cruelty are worse than useless.
n pretty little gown for child. called
the Tot" dress, is formed of a rich
shade Of French cashmere. The front
ot the rather short waist is trimmed
with large fat creamy white cashmere
revers edged with narrow dark red
gimp laid in two straight rows. The
reVeTs form large sailor collar at the
back and in front border a pointed
plastron Of the white cashmere striped
horizontally all the way down with the
gimp. The sleeves, full to several
inches below the elbow, are gathered
into deep white cuffs bcrdered with the
gimp. The Killed skirt has a wide hem
briar stitched at the top with cream
white silk
Lapped dress skirts. buttoned at the
top, with real or simulated buttonholes
on the silklined flaps. VIII be a feature
of many Of the new spring walking cos
tunes.
Some Of the handsome Russian blue
costumes are made up with bolero
jacket, girdle, and cape collar. edged
with mink fur, with a blouse vest of
blue, cream, gold, and green plaided
silk barred with satin, whose soft folds
are held by the high celnture. The
sides of the front breadth and the hem
are bordered with the fur
Satchels Of plated cane or reed ex-
actly like the Gladstone travelling bags
are shown. They are admirably light
for shopping.
They Never CnnD1,ix,ad