The herald., 1897-08-29
FALL COLORS
Beige and Brown Will Be
the FavOriteS
CLOTH BAND TRIMMING
LIGHT AND DARK CLOTH IN
STRIKING COMBINATIONS
Tailor Made Gowns to Hold Their Own
Silk and Mohair for Trimming
Jackets and Caps

me that beige and. brown are to be the
leading colors this fall. With them,
however, must be classed white, which
became so popular last winter. increased
in public favor during the summer, and
will be noted as an accessory to fall Co.'S
tunes in jacket facings, vests, collars
and belts.
While beige and brown will lead. that
old favorite, purple, has made friends
with fashion. The blue bells of Scotland
will be with us in various shades. There
will be the blue purple and the red pur
pie, and all the others of the purple
family. In addition to these we shall
see the blue and yellow greens, and then
there will be the dark and bright reds,
not to mention the soft greys that every
one likes that is slender, even if they do
show dirt. Tans and browns are always
strong favorites when they are fashion
able at all, and seem to be liked by every
body. They are refined, natural colors,
and harmonize well with other tints.
The fawn and castor shades will lead
especially in millinery, and will be the
colors chosen for handsome hats by
those who know what is what. Hat
shapes will be of greater variety in gen.
ernl finish. Many tasteful schemes of
color contrast will be seen, such as plain
felts with beaver crowns or brims, shad-
ed solid browns, green's or blues, and
dotted effects of spattered color on
plain shades. Velvet grows in import
ance every moment, and in addition to
the millinery craze for 1t in some Of its
forms, the demand for it for dress pur-
poses is steadily increasing. Beige vel
vets or felts trimmed with furs make
rich and effective headwear.
Contrasting cloth bands, cut bias,
with perfectly even edges and stitched
on near each edge will figure promi-
nently as trimming on cloth and heavy
woolen materials. This new idea was
particularly we'll carried out in pretty
brown ladies' cloth, the bands being OF
a lighter weight of the same material
and light tan in shade. The skirt has
four rows of this band trimming around
the bottom, about an inch and half
apart, the lowest band being at about
the height of a good wide hem. The
sleeves are banded from top to bottom
having the effect of horizontal stripes
and give the arms a round appearance
without using much material. The
o -oliee, front has three overlapping rev.
IoM spm aoy .gith the LIGHT banding
h,n, ,,,na Belt and collar wings are
ofH.-crveA.
1nis fancy for light and dark colors in
combination will be widespread this
coming season, and will be used in many
different styles. White in particular will
be favored for relieving otherwise plain
gowns, satin moire, moire velours, serge
and ladies' cloth being the materials
used. A close-fitting white serge or
cloth vest braided in black or gilt, OIL
both, combined with a high collar to
match. will give tone and style to the
plainest dress. White silk vests, COW
cred with black net, elaborately en-
broidered either in jet or colored beads,
will be liked worn with black satin
gowns. Jet bands outline the belt, wrists
and vest.
For street wear, also, the white trim
mings will be very much in favor. A
mineral gray serge trimmed with steel
and black braid and white serge is thor
oughly correct and very serviceable. The
skirt is trimmed with high, narrow Van
dykes of the braid. The bodice is plain
and tight-fitting, opening over a vest
Of the white, which also forms the wide
revers. These are outlined with the
braid, which is applied in such manner
as to divide the white surface into two
inch divisions horizontally. The sleeves
are moderate, with pointed cuff over
the hand, outlined with the braid.
The genuine tailor-made gown has
come back and will be worn extensively
again and with less extra trimming.
Not that 1t will be severely plain, but
other styles promise to be SO elaborate
ly trimmed, that the plain tailor-made
affairs may seem in strong contrast.
Braid trimming is particularly suited
to this prime favorite and will be used
more than any other variety. Occasion
ally one panel Of the skirt will be treated
in this way, while If the braid is used
on the costume at all it invariably ap-
pears on the revers and collar.
In fact, braid, both silk and mohair,
is undoubtedly the trimming which will
be almost universal on fall dresses.
Skirts are decorated at the foot and per-
haps at the hips with three to five rows.
The seams are covered with narrow
width, to give height to a short skirt
and festooned rows are occasionally
seen taking the place of stiffer straight
and lengthwise, and round the epau-
lettes. One row forms belt, or two rows
trim belt of the material Vests ara
trimmed in cross or lengthwise rows,
the narrow widths looking best for this,
or.the vest has gathered frogs or loops
with plain braid rows elsewhere.
Jackets are trimmed on the edge and
up the seams. Braided vests in white,
green and tan cloth, as we'll as brilliant
scarlet, will be very popular. Gilt SOU
tache forms truly elegant trimming
for this purpose and is destined to be
largely used Mixed tweeds and chew
lots are ornamented with mohair braid
the fancier gilt being reserved for finer
materials. Square braided yokes of en-
irregular shape are among the novelties.
Jet, spangles, silk and mohair braid ars
the materials used in the composition
of those new and effective adjuncts.
A Partisan blouse which I had the
pleasure of seeing the other day has a
decided air of originality about it. The
lining is close-fitting and we'll boned,
and the back is snug, but the fronts are