The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-05-19
adeas for JMo1nen.

Our Old friend, the silken poplin has
become popular again. 1t is many a wear
since it occupied this position in the
fashionable world. but now it seems to
pe, as the theatrical people say, in for a
run.
A watered silk poplin cut into small
checks in cream and brown. white and
black. gray and white and in other col
ors. such as dark blue and red or mauve
and cream, is extremely smart. 1t will
furnish very natty dresses when trimmed
with velvet and embroidery. or, more
novel still, with the metallic embroidery.
1t saw its brilliant service at the war
days, and the bellies of those days danced
virginia reels owned in its sheeny folds.
1t has corne to pass that linen dresses
are very fashionable. These are trimmed
With demonstrations of guipure over a
transparent lining of contrasting colored
silk l notice that with the ecru or
rip corn colored linen Nile green, pale
blue or deep rose color look extremely
WELL The waist and collar band should
be tied with similar colored taffeta
glace.
A novel feature of the tailor-made cos
tune this spring is a smart little zouave
jacket worn over a fancy silk blouse or
a perfectly fitting waistcoat. These
zouaves are cut in several ways, but the
newest is very tight fitting, and the
front pieces are cut in ~slanting points.
They are edged with fancy inch-wide
braid. the sleeves and collar being or
namented to match. Another style has
very wild revers of a contrasting colored
cloth, deliberately braided with an inch
wide band of velvet. This latter looks
very wen. indeed. and a corresponding
trimming on the pockets of the skirt
is an improvement.
So
A smart zouave has collar, cuffs and
the deep, wide point reaching to the
waist, both back and front of white
cloth. braided with blue, the rest of
the jacket being of royal blue cloth.
Another pretty zouave jacket forms a
part of a cycling suit. The material
is of cinnamon cloth of light make. This
the neat white cloth waistcoat with its
close-set hue of gilt stud buttons.
A great many materials covered with
rich embroidery are being prepared for
the fronts of skirts and for dress trim
mings generally. Guipure worked in col
ored cotton will be much used, and many
VI IN d1AoPoACAA las G4OllS, WIKI
pretty pompadour bouquets, will add
their quota to dress ornamentation.
Accordion-plaited lisses are to be plen-
tifully employed as cascades on the skirts
and bodices, and coarse white canvases
of various kinds worked in the faded
colorings of long ago cannot fail to be
greatly in demand as %founces, boleros
and other trimmings.
Th - Sc a hoarfif111 ramon 0f trimming
worked in paillettes, which closely re-
semble the beetle wing garnishes, and
black sequins laid closely over one an
other and black and steel trimming play
an all-important part in the shape of
bodice trimmings and boleros, which are
almost universally used. The dress
maker has really only to decide what
form her trimming will take, and she
will find it ready to her hand.
The modistes say that the 'tJupe
Soleil," or sun-plaited skirt, win be all
the rage for the coming season. 1t is a
relief to know, however, that no pattern
whatever is required for this expanding
style
AS a matter of fact this skirt is an old
friend which was introduced at the same
time as accordion plating. of which it is
a clever adaptation. No one liked it at
frst, ana II mas peen Forgotten py the
public. but since then the original ala-
gram OF the invention, showing a circle
OF radiating lines on a square with a
PLAIN space in the centre, mas renamed
! In the mind OF the modiste.
A medium sized skirt made IN this
yfashlon takes a lengtn OF materlai OF
about two and Hve-sixfhs yards by two
and six-sevenths yards, folded IN an
exact square. II is almost lnstantane-
ously streaked with formal and tapering
stripes by means OF a special accordion
plating machine heated either by water
or steam, and thus describes the ribbed
circle of wheel compared to the rays of
the sun.
When this pressing has been satisfac-
torily accomplished, the little mound in
the centre is cut off for the waist OPEN
ing. Each corner of the square is gently
rounded and then the work, thus recall
ing a dropping lampshade, is passed on
and carefully Mounted This sort of
plating is utilized for princess gowns,
long wraps and bodices. Accordion plait-
ing will be more than ever in vogue this
spring and the coming summer.
Under the most propitious circum-
stances. training a child is hard, uphill
--@-1 49, the h-cf efna fcA alyAx r-lA-