davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19
Novel Fabrics.

The epingline is the latest novelty and
is described as a finely ribbed cachemire
cloth, with the raised lines designed
obliouely instead of perpendicularly.
Numerous have teen the attempts lately
made 10 introduce plaids of all descrip-
tiops for dresses. but they assuredly do
not seem to please the Parisians. for as far
as walking costumes are concerned they
are extremely conservative, and it must
be acknowle ged that they look remark
ably smart and chic in perfectly cul
gowns IN black or dark blue, these being
strictly tailor made.
When a thin cloth is used narrow
f1ounees encircle the skirt from the waist
TO The bottom these are graduated in
size. The bodice is composed of silk that
exactly matches the cloth in shade, and
is inserted with q narrow passementerie.
Long revers of silk upon cloth bolero
com plete the costume, the sleeves OF
which are 1ounced from armhole to wrist,
all the ruffles being small and OF the same
width.
Much admired are the latest Partisan
en- broidered with black peonies.
Plaids in black and green's and in the
! shades known as Zibelines are being
made up by excellent dressmakers, but
they are certainly not admirable pur-
chases for the matron or the maid who
has d limited wardrobe, as they are con-
spicuous and not always chic.
Sleeves are smaller than ever, the least
possible fullnAss only being allowed at the
shoulder. The only fashion OF giving a
little width to the upper portion OF the
bodice, making the waist appear smaller
and rounder, is the arrangement of the
lace collars and revers. These start from
the throat and fail in squares over the
shoulders. The revers are made once
more in the Directoire style, wide, square
and higher, and OF evening gowns are
frequently covered with tiny tulle ruch-
ings or are bordereo with guipure.
The pale chine muslins now worn by
well-gowned women are made over white
taffeias, and are trimmed either with
bands of guipure upon the skirt and
bodice, or with interminable rows of mar
row black velvet. At last the rage for
black velvet lines, vertical, diagonal and
intricate, is dying out, believe, although
there is report that we are threatened
with craze for velvet lines on satin
cloths in place OF the braiding so popula T
this spring.
An evening bodice reported to be pretty
is of black and white silk (the skirt is OF
the same fabric) the black line very mar
row and the white nearly an In ch in width.
The revers are of the lightest blue TX
ompletely covered with tiny frills OF dead
white lace; there is vest of the blue
treated in the same way and round the
waist is a belt of blue silk, the color
scarcely being visible so closely is it jetted.
MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19

no one at all up in fashions would make
the mistake of considering a last autumn :
frock stylish, so different are the cloths
employed. 1t may truly be declared that
cloth is the material OF the day, and many
are the varieties we are called upon to ad-
mire.
Among the loveliest is the Amazon.
which is soft and velvety in texture and
can be obtained in com plete sca,e of blues.
with the exception of the shade known ms
SKY" but the satin cloths and cache
mires will be likewise in demand, the
reds, blnes and green's being much in
vogue. Very fair women will be pleased
to learn that the prune shade so becoming
10 most of them will again be seen this
winter, but it has undergone moditica-
ton, 1 may say, for it has now more
blush cast than red.
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19

ing is stylish that Is generally worn, so
have been wondering how long stripes and
plaids will find favor with welI-gowned
women.
Every store has tempting arrays OF such
fabrics that may be had in fairly good
weaves from 80 cents to SO rs per yard.
wearing striped or plaided (the plaided
are the newest) waists and skirts.
SO although very becoming and beautiful
l think ere long we all will be tired of
them and only the high pricsd ones will
hold their own throughout the season.
Speaking of wooden goods the ''Iand of
brown heath" and shaggy wool" is ready
to furnish large stock of stuffs of charm
Ing designs and color. Many are checked
in brown and white and black and white,
others are of neutral tints with the stripes
crossing and recro sing in color, while
others again are designed of mixed
threads, the whole effect being
neutral tone, till a close inspection
reveal the threads of fine vivid color
that run through it in all directions. The
colors are certainly unique, and owe,
have been informed, their beauty TO the
peat smoke in which these weavers work,
and to the vegetable dyes which they pre-
pare with such rare care and skill.
A gown we'll made of such a material
will certainly be smart and remarkably
serviceabe throughout all the winter, for
but few such weaves will reach our
shores.
Serges OF all the finer grades will be
much worn-for admirable garments
may be made from them by first class
taiIors and in this climate such gowns
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19

know what the new hats are to be.
They are 10 range all the way from the
pert toque to the mountainous contriv-
ance for evening wear. l find, however,
that the majority of the new hats are
round, not very high, but broad, and re-
call highly ornamented beret. A Gu
rious fact is that in many cases the velvet
has been gathered and then the stitches
removed, go that the material has all the
appearance of being puckered despite the
absence OF the thread, just as the thread
made it
we are TO have novelty this year, toe,
IN the colors of the felts, for they appear
IN al the bright shades, such as the very
hghtest pink, Nile green, brilliant reds
and biscuit color. 1t is, OF course, in
tended that these bright felt shapes
should be trimmed with black velvet and
tlack feathers, plumes being the best
liked, although owl and eco feathers will
also be used TO a considerable extent.
Light blue velvet is one OF the favor
lite trimmings, and one charming little
bonnet in this shade and material was
trimmed in a most UNIQUE fashion. Black
SSN-ASA 4SdlASlS were 1OTIOeu INTO very
tiny tips, turned downward, overlapping
each other and put completely around the
crown, with couple OF ram s. horn tips
at the side.
The new ribbons are well worth seeing,
the most striking novelty being black and
colored velours. Then there are Oriental
brocades. which are very effective, and
shot glace with borders OF conventional
pattern. Almost all the new ribbons are
shaded into three colors, and silk plains
and striped velvets are also to be seen.
The very latest in boleros-wh hich are
still with US and seem likely to remain
Tor some time yet-are those made of kid
This seems at first thought a queer ma
terlal 10 use for dress purposes; but its
great virtue is that it holds EN- broidery
extremely well and shows it 10 advantage
which, in the present craze for handwork
OF all kinds, IS great point gained. The
foundation of kid is almost entirely hid
den by the mass of silk and gold thread
put upon it IN some of the many beautiful
designs made for the purpose, while the
co!ored gems scattered in profusion over
the whole make a very splendid-lookiug
affair altogether.
black velvet yoke with three-inch
wide black velvet ribbons attached forms
a most effective finish to a silk blouse,
and may be sewed on or made separate, in
which latter case it may be worn with dif.
ferent blouses. The ribbons are sewn fast
10 the yoke, four on the chest and the
same number at the back. They are then
crossed over each other. forming squares
over the blouse and fastened to band at
the waist, both back and front, while the
sleeves are similarly decora ted.
Far from being old style the blouse and
shirt waists are more in favor than ever
and bid fair TO be universally worn. the
only change from past fashion being that
ali are now worn tucked into the skirt. A
recent adaptation of the blouse has /
a short bolero with a deep valance OF |
plated taffeta put on the lower edge This |
is drawn into the belt and bags slightly /
over it. Blouse vests in black faille or !
peau de sole Will be worn with various
kinds of skirts this fall, and as soon as the
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19

acquainted with. That to which I allude
is as fine as cashmere, and it is lined with
white striped silk, blue and white cerise
and white, with narrow tlacK line here
and there, and braided either all white or
white and black iii most rer.ect floral de-
signs Here can be manifested the wearer's
taste, and it has been found that large,
full carnations, with their thin stems, are
far more effective in fiat braiding than
violets or daisies, however we'll they may
be reproduced. Most of these new braided
costumes are ornamented with poppies,
roses and other pronounced flowers that
lend thems selves to broad treatment, in
preference to the merely pretty designs.
Where the black braid is introduced it
is chiefly in the ccnters of the floral de-
signs.
Very success 'ul, likewise, are two cos.
tunes, just completed, which are braided
entirely with black and shaded grays for
centers.
Most OF the braided white confections
are with loose blouse jackets and basque;
large revers, either crossing in front or
fastening with loops and long buttons,
down the center. The skirts are trimmed
around the bottom or down the two seams
of what is called the apron. These slants
are brought much nearer together than
they were during the spring, for it has
been ascertained that a narrow apron
takes away from the appearance of width,
and as most women naturally desire to
look small below the waist the discovery
will be widely welcomed.
The descriptions of the coats and skirts
now being worn read very much like those
written last year. However, IN reality,
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19
Her Con clusion.

There's one thing, however, that
can't quite understand" said the Rev. Mr..
Choker.
Whats that?" Mrs. Van Scadds in
quired.
why, it is this: Every time get back
to nv church after being away upon a va
cation the members of the congI egation
seem to be even better than they were be-
fore left"
"Well," the thoughtless lady said, "I
suppose il is only natural that the rest
should benefit them as well as you."-
Cleveland Lsader.
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19
Wapcella's Mode.

"IndivlduaIity is desirable, but must not
be confounded with onspicuousness-one
is smart, the other loud, - writes q WELL
known authority on fashions, and as she
voices my opinions l give you the benefit
of remark which, if thorou, hly compre-
hended. would prevent many mistakes
from being made.
To be smart and chic is the ambition of
every fashionable woman, and only the
initiated fully realize the amount OF sense
and taste that involves.
Also, as have frequently remarked, moth
The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19
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The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19
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The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19


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The San Francisco call., 1897-09-19

may be worn throughout the entire year
with perfect comfort.
With surprise and strong disapproval /
have heard of the advent OF the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17
By SEA TO SIB IBERIA.
A Successful Expedition or Twelve Steamers to
the Yenisei ana the Obi.

The attempt to reach the Siberian markets by
sea from England proved very successful and
profitable this year, though Capt. Virgins. tho
pioneer of the route, took no part In the expedi-
ton. Last summer, after delivering his cargo
safely at the Yenisei, Capt Virgins lost his
steamer. the North Star. by stranding in the fog
on the Yugor Strait, but brought his ships
company home without harm after a long
journey through the Samoyed country.
Tho expedition this year was on a moro am
bilious scale than any sent out previously. A
fleet OF twelve steamers left England at the end
of July. The vessels made their way separate
" across the White Sea to Chabarowa, on the
iugor strait. to which a coaling ship had been
sent In advance, andsthen proceeded together in
the mainland. with the Bleucathra, the strong.
est vessel. as an ice breaker in the lead. The
the season happened to be unusually open.
The Kara Sea and the straits were free from
returning. Nevertheless. the lead had to be
used constantly. as the charts proved worthless.
After rounding White leland in safety the
Meet separated, four steamers working their
while the others followed Capt. Wiggins's usual
route TO the ienisei River. where their cargoes,
consisting in part OF supplies and material for
the, Trans-Siberian railroad, were discharged,
and three of the vessels, intended for service on
Siberian rivers and on Lake Baikai, were ieft,
Little or no return cargo. save specimens of
the Obi River, where u fiotilla OF tugs and large
barges met, it. and a fortnight was spent in ex.
feet long and carried each 900 tons of grain.
Wheat, oats. -four Of a high grade, horsehair
and hemp were loaded on the British ships.
The cargo taken out by this fleet is interest
ing. 1t consisted in main part of tea pressed
into bricks, which was all disposed of at high
prices. Until the railroad is completed II has
been proved that it is cheaper to ship tea from
China around the world TO London and to trans
port 1t thence by sea to within IA comparatively
short distance of its starting point than to use
the primitive methods of caravan transporta-
tion, on which Siberia still depends for its trade
with China. The Trans.Sibcrian Railroad will
change all this. 1t is OF interest, too, that some
OF the steamers towed freight barges with them
from Nardde. The fleet assembled for the ro-
turf. at White Island; it was out Of the Yugor
strait by the middle Of September, and though
England it encountered no peculiarly Arctic
adventures.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17
THE DUM-DUM BULLET.
Experiments That Are Said TO Prove tho Stop
ping Power OF the New Rifles.

WASHINGTON. Oct. 16.-Dum-dum is tho name
Of a new bullet tried by the British Govern.
ment recently. The experiments were made to
demonstrate the amount OF set-up" and "stop-
ping" power in tho bullet, and were conducted
on tho carcasses Of freshly killed sheep. tied UP
in various positions, some with the fleece on
and others with the outer fleece and skin re-
moved. Except in one instance the range was
200 yards and the sheep were fired at broad
side on, diagonally, ana facing the shooter.
The most remarkable result, of the expert
mcnts was the large size of the wound Of exit as
compared with the smallness OF the wound Of
entrance. One bullet fred at an unskinned
sheep broadside on, passed between two ribs.
making an entrance wound no larger than a
big pea; but, after shattering one OF the yerte-
bra-, II smashed two ribs. and produced an exit
wound as largo NJ u hnlf-dOllar piece. Experts
say that such wounds II inflicted upon o human
being must necessarily be fatal, as well as
efficacy OF the Dum.dum bullet is declared to he
proved by the nature OF tho wounds, and IL il
believed by medical men that the set.up is
s9ihclcht 70 cause n severe wound, and the
erect OF tho bullet quito enough to stop the
progress of the man or horse struck. The ex-
p%criments are said by tho experts here TO prove
beyond rea sohable doubt the superiority OF the
new bullet over the old. aud to scttlc tho con.
troycrsy raised as to the stopping effect of a
bullet OF such small calibrc as that of tho now
small arm now In general use.
INC Iests gre regarded as settling finally tho
ana the new small arm bullet, 1t having been
alleged that the terrific penetrating power OF
the modern arm did not make up for tho dis.
aoiihs erect OF the old bullet Of slower velocity.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17

pulpit by two Readers known, ms first Reader
and second Reader, rs q rule Q man and a
woman: The office OF chnrc 81 r rch nllco + : +
refercnces elucidate tho subject and text OF tho
days sermon. and are read without Comment oy
structiye. and interesting discourse Is thus
evolved, and the practical ana spiritual i'm
port OF tho Ssript shHw ' much cIEonsSegrh no 10
tcntion to this form " teaching Than was
over observed under, the 9,u oruSr which
tion. Simplicity, impcrsonality, and instruction
are thus elevated, and the dangers OF listening
10 mere opinion and personal deductions nycrted.
The dc ominatiOn has its own publishing house.
90 Falmouth street, BOSTON, Mass. From this
publishing house y ISSUES ~ IHa n organ
stands in tho foremost rank or The religious
journals of the hour. Tracts and other pub.
First Church of Christ. Scientist" in Bos-
ton. is the Mother Church OF Tho denom-
%inntion. All other ciiarSIS 81 are branches OF
Individual and independent IN tho conduct of
their own affairs, yet all accept the tetets Of the
branch ch1rches to ITO Mother Church closely
osemble thato OF the states Oh ne MON to the
democracy in church, government has been thus
instituted by Mrs. Eddy, and because of the
scientific unity existing among the adhcrents
OF Christian Science there is IA unique and re-
markable unity in all ways. 49,.
In this review of The Movement. In the brief
sketch Of its Founder. and i'll the deductions of
the scientists. physicians, and thinkers will be
seen she evidences of u common need, the need
of demonstrable religion. Divine Science. and u
higher system OF mental therapeutics. Christian
Science stands upon the threshold Of the hour,
bearing the torch OF progress, liberty, health,
holiness, and universal salvation to a race.
In tho words OF a physician who has
recently become an active adherent. AS
tops before the lower hills and plains ever
feel its rcfulgcnt rays. so these truths
nature, but the lower hills and valleys are now
feeling the beneticcnt influence of the rays
which first lighted the Rev. Mary Baker Eddy,
and I do not feel like disputing the profoundest
belief of Christian Scientists that 1t will yet
illumine the entire human race"
Great truths are dearly bought. The common Truth,
Such as men give and take from day to day,
Comes in the common walk OF easy life,
Blown by the careless wind across our way.
Great truths are greatly won. not found by chance,
Nor waited on the breath OF summer dream:
But grasped in the great struggle OF the soul,
Hard .bufeting with adverse wind and stream.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17
PRICES PA1D TO MODERN AUTHORS
itudS"rd HiDiing Leads tho MnrLot-Mor
Money In Hymns Than In Novels.

Rudyard Kipling commands tho highest
price OF any living author, according TO the
ran -hdH Gazette, which says thu; it paid
500 for cnch of his "Darrack Room ballads
ard that 1.-The Seven Seas brought him ST.
Geo. lilo has received 80 cents n word for a
i~"ooo'word story. Anthony Hope charges
$40 for a magazine story, rescrving the copy.
rlhht; Mr.. Gladstono's price for II review is
! 900, Conan boyle received S35, 600 for
600 for Robert E!smerc," ssO,OOO each fnr
David Grieye" and ''Marcellu,f $1,000 for
s noo C 20, r, ..r,I Ian MscIaren has made So.
Lang Syno' Rider Haggard still ASKS from
40 TO 500 a column Of / ,5UO words and VII
not, write for less than $40, 900. NN ""
Ihc highest price ever paid for IA novel il
S2OO,OuO,, which. the Pan Mail iJGrcttc savs
WAS handed over to Alphonse Daudet for his
''H1pho.. Iola's first fourteen hook not. ID
him s22O 600. and In twenty years he has made
a. least S371,''h, Ruskin's siSty-four hnnkI
bring him IN, .b,OO q year, Swinburne W.
writes very little, makes IS 600 N yenr Nv bis
poems. browning, in his later years. drew
Sln,Wo : year from the sale of his work, And
Tcnnyson IL said to have received StiS 0on" "
year from the. Macmillans during The Iast
years of his life. Mr.. Moody is believed TO
have beaten all Others, as more than III I'M.
900 has been paid in royalties for his hymns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17
Snake ana Ihzard Match In n Trsetop.
FTom he GretnWD tKM) Gaeonc.

While in the Country last Sunday tho od,,o.
or tho GdrettC saw II blacksnakc trying 10 can.
lure a lizard for It's dinner. Tho lizard had *.
best or the snake in the contest, which tonp
place in a cluster Of saplings. The lizard wo n
run up q sapling clear to the top and patieniity
about half up The sapling, when tho lizard wo,ipi1
ibihn IRON, the tor Of the tree to tho ground, ami
striking the ground about the same Ii linz IN ~
BEFORE me snake could get Itself straighteneii
ON ne lizard which did not have to unCoji
would repeat us effort to procure a dinner IT,
snake, not being tho, rcady climber tho ilznrrbb
n ~fruitless Job. s"'et "p as
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-10-17
WHEY LAWyrRs WERE SCARCE.
Curious Facts shown by N Census or Those
Entitled 10 Practice Taken In 1890.

In the year 1920, under tho authority of the
state OF New York, an enumeration OF tho
lawyers entitled to practice at tho State or
local courts was made. Tho regulations for adj
mission to the bar nj that time were simple AMI
easy TO comply with. Nevertheless there were
found TO be only three lawyers on Staten Island.
thirtoGn in Wcstrhcotcr; sixty in Albany, and
then attained III" distinction which II has had
since the growth Of Rochester into il city and it
had within its borders only seventeen lawyers,
while Columbia county, which has since given
10 the bar of the state many learned jurists. Ia
mlhirtS,tw4. and putchess county ffty-two.
The people Of Long Island were oven less in
Clinod TO litigation then than they arc now
Tor IN the whole of Suffolk county there were
SIX lawyers only, N Queens county there were
but two. and in Kings county Ut is very differ
ent now there were three only.
In Broomo county there we're five lawyers, in
Grctne twenty'one, in Putnam three, in
Steuben twelve, and in TioSa fourtecn; hut
ntslrhaps The lawyer of TINT period, who enjoyed
what might in these days be called an easy
snap was the one member Of the New York bar
who resided in Orleans county. Alter 1890
there was a largo increase of lawyers in New
York state and in 1884 they numbered 2,0s4.
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-03-25
CONNECTIONS

No. I0l Kansas Mail-Has reclining chat,
ears tseats free) and Pullman drawing roor-
sleepers 10 Wichita and Burton, kan. Cor.
narrs ar Wichita, Kan. with A. T SS 2
for points IN Cherokee Strip and Oklahoma
Connects al Burton, Kan. with A T q
: +. for points in Kansas.
No TOs g. Louis Mail-Eas raeH-{,,
chasr cars (seats free) 10 ST Iouis a.;
PuIInsn drawing-Toom sleepers 10 None,
Connects ST Pierce City. Mo. with NJ SsS
for points in Indian Territory via Nsost,,9
8. IIouett with Nc. 5. the Texas Yi,,i.ss :
GN-sst:buled) which has reclining chsi- -
fsasrs f-eaA Pullman GrsEing-rooro slse-
e-s "a Galveston via Paris and Dallas. -
,iiniag ears TaiiTina 20 Dallas: Connects a
Nonsft with No. 2 which cou7acrs :,
I MON station. ST. Louis. with ali unes To-
,ba ssst. north and southeast
No io5. Colorado and California u--s,.s
Has reclining chair cars (seats frsa1 -
burton and Anthony. Kan. Pullman R,,r
fer ara wiug-rooln sleepers 20 Eurrto- Es-
-Tt-oush Pullman sleepers Burton Es-
- Pnsblo. Denver, z Paso. Los srSs;s..'
San n.ego and san Francesca. CorsspS.
a. Eurr,on. Kan. with a T < : -
POINTS in Colorado, Wyoming. Utah. Nsvs.
IA Idaho Montana Oregon. Washs-r-o1
New and Ola Mexico, Arizona ard CaIltor,
No. I0S ST Louis Lin,tsd-FFas ree;spi,~
chair cars seats frse) and Pullman BrTrsss
ira Ning-roon slsepcrs 10 ST Louls Re
cIuinS chair cars fsests freel and p,II-,-.,
Palace Sleeper No1efi 10 Dallas Tex VIA
Paris. Connects AT Nofstt NTH No ! for
points IN Arkansas and Texas Connects
- h"nA'; with No. $ which connects az 81.