Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-07-04
THE HIGHLANDERs OF SCOTLAND.
by Ex-Dcan of Guild David Mac
donald, Aberdeen

donald, ADcEuech
Both the truis and the philibeg, piaid
and bonnet. formed the dress or the
Highlander at n very early period. Inc
truis, II is said by some authorities, was
used chiefly by the upper classes when
journeying on horse back; but the kilt was
the national costume. and dates from the
earliest period. 1t was composed OF a
striped or checkered piece Of cloth. about
six yards long and two broad, and was
disposed in plaits round the BODY, 10
which ii was secured by belt, and fas-
tened at the shoulder in such way as
to allow liberty of action to both arms.
In fact. the belted plaid was simply a
piece of cloth gracefully disposed around
the person In order to obviate the neces-
sity for the workmanship OF the lalIo i.
The modern phlibeg is the original dreSs
improved and the alteration Is ainfmed
to have taken place rather more than a
century ago, when an Englishman, md
ing that his Workmen were impeded III
their operations by their dress, suggested
that the belted plaid should be divided
and that jacket should be substituted
for the piece equally arranged round tne
shoulders. Indeed the picturesque Hlgn-
land costume of to-day bears little SINH
larity 10 the dress which prevailed
couple OF centuries ago. The sporran,
which Is now worn in front OF the kllt,
was then simply small pocket usually
made of goats or badgers skin, or some
times leather and was a useful appen-
dage. Now, however, II Is little more
than an ornament. Shoes and stockings
are OF comparatively recent date IN the
Highlands Originally the inhabitants
encased their feet In rivellns, made OF
untanned hide, cut to the size and shape
of the foot, similar to those worm in Shet-
land. Nor was this practice among the
common people. Burt mentions that in
4ha 81. agrf ~ 4fUhfnnnfh century
he visited laird who was both educated
and polite and this was the only covering
he had for his feet. When the first
Highland regiments were embodied hun
dreds OF the Highlanders entered the
Lowlands without either shoes or stock
ings. Nothing in the shape Of neckte
was worn and their shirts were made of
woollen cloth.
THE KILT AN IDEAL DRESS.
General Stewart states that among the
circumstances which Influenced the mill
tary character Of the Highlander, their
peculiar garb was conspicuous, which, by
its freedom and lightness, enabled them
to use their limbs and TO handle their
arms with ease and CELEBRITY, and 10 move
with great speed with either cavalry or
light infantry. In the wars Of Gustavus
Adolphus, In the civil war OF Charles l.,
and on various other occasions they
were often combined with the cavalry,
affording TO detached squadrons the in
fantry, even on their most rapid move
mentS.
CLAN TARTANS.
The tartan OF which the Highland dress
Is composed appears to be Of very ancient
design; but no record, SO far as known,
exists as 90 when it was first introduced.
The shepherds tartan plaid is said 10
have existed from very remote antiquity
amongst the eastern nations OF the
world and classic writer's state that the
same kind of cloth was in common use
among the continental Celts at a very
early date. 1t is somewhat remarkable.
however that, Notwithstanding the inn
perfect knowledge which existed many
centuries ago with regard TO the manu-
facture OF colors, such excellent spsci-
mems of Highland tartan as have come
down TO us should have been manufac-
tured in the Highlands. Stewart, in his
sketches. says that "in dyeing and ar
ranging the various colors Of their tartans
they displayed no small art and taste,
preserving at the same time the distinc-
tive patterns Tor sets as they were call
ed) OF the different clans. tribes, families,
and districts. Thus Macdonald,
Campbell a Mackenzie, etc, was known
by his plaid. and in like manner the
Athole, Glenorchy, and other colors OF
different districts were easily distin-
guishable.