The San Francisco call., 1897-08-22
! )hoso Be Queer Innovations in the Realm Where
Fashion Rules Woman With Law as
Firm as the Sun and as FickIe
as the Wind

Cool weather brings with it a hint of
the approaching winter. II will be many
days-weeks, however, before the need of
much heavier material will be felt.
The most striking features of the fall
styles is their uncertainty. Some few
things, however, stand out from the midst
Of the chaos, and most pronounced i, the
continued liking for the blouse waist.
They can be made OF rich material and
superbly trimmed.
In contrast with those OF the past the
trimmings now extend to the back OF the
bodice, thus showing more unity of style
Folds are often placed diagonally and in
deep groups. Sometimes a deep belt is
discarded and the bodice ends in short
point, reaching barely an inch behind the
waist
Then, again, the newer ones are seen
with basques of almost every description.
They are usually close fitting, extending
around the whole corsage. The leg O.
mutton sleeves still remain popular for
heavier materials, but are made much
smaller than usual, and the wrinkled and
trimmed sleeves will be chiefly used in
Iighter-weight fabrics.
Skirts remain almost unchanged. The
front is as usual, and fitted to the figure,
but at the back the form is that of the
bell skirt. Ruff1es at the foot of the skirt
grow deeper; in fact, they are fast grow
ing into dounces, as We have already seen
some very handsome dresses with the
flOunce reaching to the middle OF the
skirt. l saw a very elegant fall dress the
other day of a green mixed material, the
skirt trimmed with rows of green braid
reaching hall way UP the skirt. An en-
tireiy plain skirt is thing of the past, to
the regret OF many.
All the French and Vienna journals
bring extensively trimmed skirts as
models, either with superposed tiounoes
deep all around, futterlngs or pleatings,
or nicely braided loot trimmings.
Rows of bouillonnes. braidings or tiny
fiounces in some cases cover the entire
skirt and are carried TO the waist a regu-
lar intervals, sometimes with the addition
OF galloon or Jeweed braid.
The Eton or Figaro jacket, in spite of
its enemies, has outlived their evil
scheming and still presents an ex-
ample Of united utility and taste.
Those who attire themselves in to-mor-
rows fashions and not in those of to-day
and prefer elegantly trimmed bodces
adorned with Iaces, p!eatings or ruchings.
Lace insertions, however, are the most
intense as a corsage finish.
Referring back to boleros l will say that
the newest have the front entire and
closed, and are either embroidered or
covered with circular rows of velvet or
ribbon. Most of the cloth and serge bo-
Ieros, also the mess jackets, have borders
of white or biscuit cloth; ana the trim
ming lies partially over this a1d the edge
of the skirt is trim in she same fash
ion.
Although the sleeves are much mar
rowed capes are not yet 10 be discarded by
any means. Jackets, of course, are seen
in majority, but [ was told by big furrier
shat they have just as many capes in
preparation rs jackets. Big mantles, such
as we're worn III 1880, with some mooern
touches hitched in, will be popular for
middle-aged ladies. The princess gown is
also said TO be rev we'd, which looks well
on old and young alike.
But the latest way of making them
nowadays is to have the waist and skirt
separate but joining invisiDy below the
waist line, the fas tening being either hid
den by narrow trimming or else fold of
the gooIs around the hips.
This is much more practical than the
old-fashioned gown, as it thus is made
easy TO get into. The practical toulards
ard pongees. with their spotted and fig
ured designs, will yet remain popular.
White canvas weaves are the NEST availa-
BILE for yachting garments, those IN which
The meshes are Irregular being the most
sought liter. Z Trimmed with Scotch plaid