New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-02-28
THE ELABORATE PETTICOAT.
PINK SATIN GREEN SILK AND BLACK
LACE ITEMS IN ITS MAKE UP.
MorssELINE DE Sole AND CHANTILLY TRIMMINGS
LINGERIE RIBBON BEDECKED-THE GlGoT

LINGERIE RIBBON REPRESENTATIVE GlGoT
SLEEVE AND PoMPADouR STYLES
Paris Feb. 2O--If We to have many founda-
ton skirts the silk petticoat will hardly remain 80
important a feature of Partisan wardrobe as IL Is
now With lined skirt. the petticoat Is not
thing to be concealed. and cannot be 100 much
trimmed or hardly too full about the bottom III
shape too, ii follows the form OF the skir', anu
during the days OF the vouminous jupe the upon
hung IN almost as MANY godets. Now that skirts
are much smaller the petticoat well seems 10
have quite changed its form.
A recent model made evidently to be worn under
a closely fitting street skirt. is OF black sa'',,
closely fitting about the hips. apron nat ana d'i
the fulness thrown in the back and arranged there
with an elastic At the knees tho satin ends III
Van Dyke points that hang over series OF iuil
narrow rufies. made alternately OF green siiN anu
black lace. The silk ruffles give the delshtlui
nufiness and rustic that are so fascinating. Inc
satin makes the best possible iouhdauo" o'e'
which to slip tight skirt
A moro elaborate pettcoat is of pink SATIN ush'
In front and the sides, and gathered pehiiu'
The very hem is finished by hounce OF piacA
lace: above this is a puff OF black mousseline oe
Sole headed by another rufie of the Chantliy ar
ranged in points Heading the pointed rufie Is a
row of black entredeux that runs up on the PINK
satin to form Greek pattern
CHEMIsE WITHOUT SLEEVES.
At recent exhibition OF lingerie were ho'eu
some hne elaborate chemises with rather deep
yoke front and back. the soft linen baiiste pelhs
fuled onto the yoke. They were decidedly more
graceful than the usual form. and the yokes were
made with lace end entredeux through which lid
bon was run ending in series Of little BOWS uow sn
side. The chemises intended io oil being held
over the shoulders by length OF rDooh ana hane Of
this 66Nn may 6T m the TINY ribbon used
a drawing strng holding the garment over 'he
The modest dimension ascribed to sleeves TO-:
day has by no means done do%Sff il the balloon
sleeve ever suggested the possibilities 1or oun a.,
M of ,be sleeve of today does They little dra-
perry but great amount OF trimming, AM
sleeve gigot in form with the smaes. stan amo om
fIlness at The top AT the TTn, the Shoulder
hangs a wing OF the same material.
ODD DRESS SLEEVES
On a reception gown Of pale yellow SILK ana
bronze velvet the top Of the sleeve IS some s'A
inches deep Con the outside Of the arm) OF tucked
velvet = slopes I'D in the under-arm seam as
we'll and is sprinkled with gold paillettes From
this cap the hangs double f1unGe OF a ar
yellow lace to ha on fS Ss ns snS charm
sleeve Of the small gigot shape, and made OF
silk. is cut to form points over the hand S %,6
the outside seam opened to the elbow ana i eaT
in with a puff Of white gauze that eRds IN ian
pretty elbow sleeve is of satin Wrlnked eG o.
over the upper arm Two satin ruies ,sm , IL al
the shoulders. and two Of lace fall from the elDow e
The tight eeow sleeye rs snd the full res at
the elbow. after the pompadour fashlon seem ~
Sonr eects now besides the tight elbow
sleeve ending with full founces.
THE POMPADOUR STYLES.
There Is the pompadour style of hairdressing
the broad squarecut decolletage that has some
what taken the place of the becoming straight cut
that showed so prettiy the tops Of the shoulders;
the bouffant effect of the hips and ponteu poo iU
and trimmed aprons skirts with deml-taliS,
wv he periOd again in SHOES. WITH
high. much-trimmed vamps, big rcsettes ana u!h,
so Sme instances the shoes are Of red kid dainty
house slipper certainly is OF black satn' win rea
are ruthlessy cut into and curiosity shops ran
sacked for bits Of old brocade to cover shoe cut
in this quaint fashion.
TRIMMED CHECKERS.
One might imagine that the possibilities Of trim
ming choker were exhausted. but new devices
constantly appear. particularly on cloth or wool
costumes, where chokers take their cue from tho
masculine cravat.
There are few prettier fashions than the cravat
Of soft satin or ribbon wound twice ABOUT me
fourth hand knot with tiny turnover collar of
embroidered null or stiff linen over It, A recent
necktie effect. There is high rolling collar lined
win on 'he T6boS aRd be through the
sashings and tied in large. square. lace-trmmed
on another taor-made gown have loose
figaro opening to show waistcoat OF ecru cioIn'
steel buttons. In this there is no linen collar
the choker being covered by scarf OF black satln
ending in four stiff loops under the chln, ana
separated by steel buckle.
CHARMING SPRING HATS.
Some charming hats to be worn with the first
spring days are made of finely shrred tulle.
becoming one has crown and broad brim haring
I'd on one side Of violet tulle deliberately shrred.
On the other side IS trimming OF violet Liberty
satin and a white bird with sweeping tail
A beautiful chapeau much the same shape. Is
made OF fancy gray straw In that SOFT. slNery
shade one generally expects to find only In satin
ments. and a white bird with long tail feathers
tipped with yellow. ~,
almost any costume. is built Of silvery white straw
The rows are separated by lines OF black veiVe
white straw-one OF the novelties OF the season
and the high trimming is punched on one ne, s i,a
low and black dwarf sunfowers
ELABORATE EVENING TOILETS.
Evening toilets are elaborate TO the point Of so
bewdering the observer that detailed description
seems impossible. Here is a white MORE silk with
DRAINED bodice OF white velvet. worn with a bolero
OF cloth OF gold incrusted with lace figures and
edged with lace From the sides Of the jacket faii
lace pieces that pass under belt OF violet velvet
and ornament the skirt From one shoulder faIls
a heavy spray Of purple and lilac orchids me
short sleeves covered by the lapels and lace OF
The dem-train Is growing more and more IN favor
for important occasions. and good proportion or
evening gowns made in this fashion. An ei-
a,sborateIy trimmed with lace incrustations and
gold sequins. The soft bodice Is draped very low
in front hut shows behind narrow belt and large
how ~ mink velvet rose effect Of pink tulle
makes the sleeves Drapery or the same. ootte1
Wnnn Soeee with velvet leaves falling from
Shoulder finishes the costume.
"ALICE ~ WONDERLAND"
Tho play of "Aiice in Wonderland IS to be given