Evening star., 1897-02-06
Suggestions From Paris for Ultra
Stylish Gowns.
HINTS ABOUT SKIRTS and SLEEVES
A Handsome Velvet Gown is Quite
the Thing.
FOR CALLING AND AT HOME
srecia1 Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Social Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS. January %. 1897.
After a few days in Paris / begin to get
used TO the imperative. Elsewhere it Is.
Would you not like?'' Here it is, You
must have" The superiority of French
taste hes been conceded so long that Pari-
sian dressmakers have become autocratic,
and if of their DEGREES does not be-
gin lit is necessary" the only variation to
be expected is a polite circumlocution for
you ought or you should" 1 am hav-
ing ''vous ayez besoin davoir of
at me so often and SO glibly that 1 feel
the need of passing 1t along. Therefore
You have need Of velvet dress, for a
beginning.
L insist, borrowing my phraseology
from the sources above mentioned. upon
velvet. Black is good. dark blue is good
brown is better, dark green is best of all.
You should line such a dress with white
silk pale blue, yellow or water green
You should show the lining as you lift
it. and. that it may please upon exhibition
you must have unlimited frills inside the
hem. With skirt of this order ''it is
necessary that you wear a silk blouse
matching II in color. over the blouse
there must come bolero of some deli
cate. light coloIed velvet, preferably Of
the same tint the skirt lining. This
bolero requires embroidery in gold and
jewels You need black satin corselet and
some dainty finish of white cream col
ored lace at the throat, and then your
visiting or reception costume is CONNIE
II faut," as il is necessary.
/ cannot talk back to military greatness,
but l can ape the manners of my betters
and play the despot in my turn You are
required, If you care to show yourself well
abreast of the fashions, to wear your
bodice trimmings high upon the shoulders.
PuffinSs or ribbon or velvet and large rib
l.Tara HS~vrr
they refuse to do SO. for they must not
flare at the sides. You will show your
understanding of the situation If you have
an evening bodice with d high wired collar
from the shoulders, but this is not obliga-
tory.
The Proper sleeve.
You must be quick to catch the new
lines of the sleeve. To gather II in at the
shoulder without any rise to II, let 1t hang
almost in a bag to the elbow then tighten
It gradually and not with any pinching
exactness to the wrist and let it flare
broadly over the hand is the mode for
next spring. Look at pictures of 1910 of
the decade that Conan Doyle writes of
in his newest book, If you need a more
detailed description. There Is less full
ness and more droop at the shoulder a
looser cut and with more curve and hexi-
daring outburst at the wrist than you get
In the experimental, transitional sleeve OF
today.
Every bodice. Jacket and cloak has a
most enormously nigh collar of lace or
chiffon. or II the collar is OF silk or velvet
IL is clover. that lace or chiffon can he
introduced between.
The sacque-back coat continues the IA
vorite model in cloth or fur 1t Is better
called Il whole-ba~k coat, for this better
expresses what is really meant-that IL
mas no seam in the back at all. Some
times tie front hangs straight also but for
This there is only silent permission, not ap-
proyaL One box pleat on either side of the
front is according to the letter of the law