The herald., 1897-03-28
Consultation Free

so that when the day is clear each OF
the rocky monsters can be seen from ev-
cry aspect. The snow belts with which
the submits are crowned extend for
some thousands of feet downward, and
when 1 first saw them a mist obscured
the lower parts, giving the snow caps
the appearance Of large white clouds
glistening In the sun,
A beautiful scene, the impression OF
which shall not soon forget, is that
which l saw in passing from Las Vegas
to Jalapa, a distance of about 36 miles
Las Vegas is 5000 feet and Jalapa 5000
feet above the sea level, so that in ride
of about two hours there is a fall OF
5000 feet. The train winds its way down
ward at an incline of two and a halt
feet in 100 The Line is constructed in
three or four tiers. running now this
way and now that, until three or four
tracks are in sight at one time, making
the same object appear three or four
times. In two places the tracks are only
60 feet apart.
1t was at the hour of sunset when we
passed through this beautiful mountain
scenery. Round and round the hills the
train wound its way. A mist began tc
spread over the valley and plateaus
leaving the peaks prominent in the even
ing cleaning.
In the deep gorges at the left were
clouds banked like mountains of snow
while farther away the tops of the peaks
covered with pines, rose as if out of the
ocean. Above the clouds. dark and
sombre. appeared mimic sky without
speck to mar the clearness of its sur
face. Coming out of the shadows the
rays Of the setting sun were thrown
upon the clouds beneath, tinting them
alternately with emerald. red and brown
producing q seemingly revolving mo-
| ton At least all the colors of the rain
bow were blended into one field of har-
monious beauty, so long and SO wide
that the eye became bewildered.
The somber garments OF night are now
spread over the earth, and in the dis
tance can be seen the lights OF Jalapa
The dream life of the past hour OF
so is now rudeIy broken by sounds Is
suing from human throats. I am In
Jalapa. To step from the train to the
street car requires but a few minutes
and soon am ascending hill SO steeI
that it requires six mules and constant
urging from the driver to take the cal
to the hotel a half mile distant. On the
way, passing the plaza. crowded with
people and brilliantly lighted, / catch
strains of music which come to ME. sofl
and sweet, pure and true.
Dinner over, I repaired to the Plaza,
where I breathed an air loaded with the
odors OF the orange, tropical plants and
| flowers. The stiffness of the scene was
broken only by the liquid tones of con-
versation. I seated myself to rest and
to observe the throng passing and re-
passing In front OF me. The rich and
the poor, the high and the low. met here
upon q common level, Class distinc-
tions apparently were obliterated. Har-
mony prevailed, the people having aims
and aspirations In common.
l. Like q we'll drilled company the peo-
pie, closely, compactly, marched around
the square. There was no confusion;
no hurry; but rhymth and regularity
guided their movements. The women
walked two abreast on the inner and
the men on the outer side of the square.
Each column going in opposite direc-
tions. Contentment and happiness were
pictured on the features Of all. In
scarcely an instance could there be seen
the weary, haggard look or intense anx-
iety SO often met with In the United
States.
Jalapa is but little known to the aver
age tourist. 1t is the capital Of the state
Of Vera Cruz, and contains about 16, 900
Inhabitants. It Is the most curious old
place. perhaps, to be found In the whole
Of Mexico. Built on q hillside. with
steep and irregular streets, which are
remarkable for their picturesque beauty
and scrupulously clean condition. It
commands an excellent view OF the sur
rounding country. From the highest