davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

any 40 dhspinysa 4 benutifri cnrpstc Of utrange,
flaming pattern, cplorea with nurnbcrlesg bright
tints, 90 beautifully and harmoniously blended
with softer shades % 70 bring an expfosaion o.
delight from everybody. Tho reputation OF the
rough weaving loom was made. The old man
was lodged and pensioned. In the convent end
a weaving school was instituted. among the
pupils. Soon all tho churches Of Umbria had
carpets OF the strange flaming pattern over tho
II things could have gone on as they started,
the story would have ended hero with "and
they all lived happily ever after but they
didn't. In the year 1860 the Italian army In
yadod Perugia and destroyed the convent OF the
Derolftte. The nuns were scattered, the pupils
returned. TO their homes, and the loom, broken
and despised, was tossed away with the useless
things tho soldiers did not want.
Countess Del Mayno and Count Rossi-Scotu
heard this legend from the old wives of Umbria,
and they had tbs old loom brought out from its
hiding place. From tho original they had now
machines made. and with tho help OF SlRnora
Cozianelli, n very old PeruRian woman, who in
her youth had worked at these looms. after
many attempts and many failures. at last they
succeeded in getting thcm TO turn out perfect
patterns, Signora Cozianolli ts at the head Of
the small weaving school which the Count and
Countess have established In the .Palozzo Ma
RIM, and 80 once moro tho beautiful carpets,
with the strange flaming pattern. glow beneath
the faces OF the young weavcrs, intent. on their
work. Only women are employed at tho looms.
Tho woods arc produced and dyed in the neigh
borhood, while tho silks como from Milan.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

vsrT pretty. AmonE ths applique trimsnfnen
u one Of white batiste with hand embroidery.
which Il charming on an teru grnss doth eovrn.
The variations in dress trimmings seem to be
without limit, and about everything possible IL
pressed into service TO decorate the summer
bodice. One very odd waist Of holiotropo chif-
fon over white has q bolero OF duh grocn silk
trimmed with three graduated rows OF hello
trope velvet. valcncienncs lace is greatly in
favor this season, and everything, from lingerie
to the most elaborate gown, is moro or less
decorated with this especial kind Of lace.
Round waists are still the prevailing style for
all dressy gowns, despite the advent Of the little
frilled basque which has shown itself on some
of the latest models, and belts seem to be q fea-
turo Of every bodice, whether 1t has q basque or
not. Sash %effocts, however. are newer than the
Straightforward belts, and these are tied at the
side or at the back, as you fancy.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

without any elastic at ali. Wasn't it AWFUL. |
don't know what we are coming, to! Straight
know, dangling the other way and their clothes
swishing this way and that with every move
ment. Il was a sight. Oh. how the people
end you came right away
Yes, as soon as l could catch my breath I
said to my husband. Are we In America Z And
he said. Yes, right here, in Greater New York.
DID GFip miS gSuF . l61 9 q tsi SRd tb don't a m iS1t ,a But ! !
and he said that they very probably would do Il
pushed, away my glass and hurried out, although
I was thirsty and the breeze out there on the
coming home that although / never had seen
an qevli before to saw his feminine double then.
Why. Tdreamt about III,
You young people don't mind so much. be.
cause SoTns you've been born into this new way Of
and restaurants In shortskirted bicycle suits
thing is a shock. 1t gives me a creepy feeling
even now, with all the summers I've spent at
deliberately go down into a public bath. with all
eyes upon her; and not mind 1t a particle, Just as
day, before New York became so cosmopoiitan. Z
ence were considered fair marks for criticism:
put. whether professional or not, the rest OF her
form, from her waist down. was wrapped in
graceful; half-mermaid mystery. obscurity, Just a
ih"oo VI uiopIihuOus training uTdpcEy. VI course
it was understood that she had legs to get about
on, and her feet were Legitimate objects Of ad-
miration; but seldom. very seldom, in private or
public or in the press. was mention made of
them, and then in a half-apoloeetic way. Now
there seem to be no reservations; people talk
the whole tone. even OF high-class manners and
though = I am nnf 3oid that sef It Is i 10 r @i yet el eDwe; to- to
a higher plane, because rational common sense
has taken the place Of artificial humbug. Well,
those of us OF the old set still cling to the hum
bug. and the common sense. especially as exhib-
iteu last night. f1usters u.s."
sense dictated that you drink the
lemonade you had paid for last night" said the
young matron, laughing
80 ! suppose, but, who could sit calmly and
sip lemonade with those inverted figures culver
Ing on the stage. oh, no! Mine is only one voice
OF course. and won ever be heard. or have any
effect, but / draw the line when things are car
ried too far, and l consider that those pastures
without ~elastics are too far entirely"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
THE GIRLS STOOD ON THEIR HEADS,
An Eidorly Womnn's Impressions or . Scarlet
ClRd Apparition.

You came back early last evening r. tho
young matron at the summer hotel remarked to
her neighbor at breakfast.
Yes; we couldn't stay" the older woman
answered in q tone calculated to pique curiosity.
Wasn't it breezy on the pierT"
delightful"
Didn't the band play nicelyi I think that
string band is just sweet"
Yes. The music was fairly good"
'dreat crowd. l suppose. and the people who
had their families with them ranged the chill.
aren standing up In front 30 that you couldn't
seeT"
YES; but I don't mind crowds in such n bip
Enclosure, and the people were oil made to sit
down after awhile or else they went away"
Did the man come out dressed as q woman
and singi'
Yes but ! didn't mind that much"
'And did they have those foolish negro min
strels with red patches on tho seats of their
white trousers r.
YES. but / didn't mind them"
well, what -"
III tell you," said the elderly woman. set.
Ting her laces neryously and shutting her fan
with a snap. Il came away because the two
girls who came out TO entertain us stood ON
thor heads"
o their heads P"
'AS't hpoibs " Iuily u mlnutO
or more; and what WIS worse. they got an encore
and they did 1t twice. What do you think OF
thatf l felt real faint. Mr.. S. had paid for the
beer, or whatever 1t is tho" like you to buy, and
l had Just got a glass of lcmonade; but | came
away and left IL nntasied. Wasn't II terrible ~
Inc pair that were there last week were in vel.
low and black; but they used elastic"
elastic, and the effect was something terrible
They had on regular DEVILS scarlet. oh No
decent person could stay. They call me old
say anything; but, indeed. this was more than
human nature. could stand. Whom the girls
4 sympathy with them, thinking how hard they
mad TO work to get those movements. They
were very careful, too. and whenever they did
to keep their skirts down In place, and seemed
70 ihsinuste that II was not their fault
Think the admiration they excited over.elated
them, and the hrst thing / knew, there they
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
PERUGLA,S STRANGE RUGS.
An italian Industry which Was started BY Ono
Woman Revived BY Another.

Much interest has been awakened all over
Italy by the revival at Perugia OF the industry
OF weaving. Mrs. Galleuga, an English journal
list, says that the revival is due to Countess
Simonetta del Mayno, wife of Con. Del Mayno.
lately commander Of the military division of
umbria, and to the Italian artist, Count Lemmo
Rossi-Scotti OF Perugia.
About the sixteenth century wcavers In Peru
gia began to initiate Oriental rugs, and espe-
cially those from India, which were decorated
with a design in waving lines. called to this day
In Italy Ramona They had so much Buccess
that they carried the art to u greater point of
beauty than the originators. Many years ago
the industry was abandoned. Many OF the old
rugs are still treasured in the historic Palazzo
dEste at Ferrara. in the Vatican, and in tho
churches and palaces OF Perugia.
In This poetic region there Is, of course, a ira
ditioh attached to the revived industry. Tho
old women Of Umbria say that once upon a time
an old man appeared at the door OF the convent
OF the Derelitte, in Perugia. lie was ragged
ana half starN I'd, and looked more like "a wizard
IMAM an ordinary human being. He carried with
MN a queer-looking primitive loom, on which
he had woven a rough texture in II Zig-zag, ser.
PTS laughed at the contoTted pattern. but one
sister declared, that the pattern showed ar
tistic taste. She asked that the old man
be sheltered at the convent. and thon
begged him to give her the loom. She spent
hours alone With II in her cell, until finally one
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
APRONS IN FAVOR IN LONDON.
They Arc Made or Fine Linen or Lace and Cost
as Much as $500 Each.

They Arc Made or Fine Linen or Lace and Cost
as Much as $500 Each.
Word comes from London that the apron 10
once more in fashion. There was a time in this
country when a woman would not have thought
OF appearing without her apron on. Then it was
a sombrea affair Of black silk or alpaca, some
times set off by a few dainty tucks OF rows Of
herring-bone stitching and a little very fine lace.
Now the very cheapest aprons are made OF the
finest white linens and muslins and batistcs,
and are puffed and frilled with lace and trimmed
with ribbons until the old ladies OF a hundred
aprons. The finest aprons are made Of real lace.
and are well worth passing Town from genera
ton to generation.
An English woman recently ordered an apron
that cost $500. 1t is made of Brussels rose point
IN an exquisite floral scroll design. and hasa
border OF roses. She didn't get 1t TO wear when
doing up the kitchen work, but she dons It when
serving afternoon tea or doing a dainty piece Of
fancy work.. Some OF the lace aprons have pas
loral pictures, in which figures are introduced,
and are very quaint looking with their floral
oorders., Still others are embeliished with but.
ternies, birds, and blossoms.
Men ike aprons, so IL II pretty safe 10 say
hat the fashion of wearing them will sou
take hold here. Some of the shops are Al.
ready importing them. and the managers say
they will go like hot enkes when ,chafngNish
Tune comes round again. Nothing domcN'I'
Gates a woman in appearance like an apron.
ana q very frivolous girl can sometimes deCoy .
very clever bachelor with one II she only knows
how to wear II. or at least that Is what some ot
tho clever bachelors say themselves. There IS
agreat deal in knowing how to wear an apron.
the most costly apron ever made was worn ~
1t was made entirely Of point lace and Was
valued at $4,000.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

the same manner below a yoke OF white chiffon
shirred into fine tucks, and a white chiffon frill
edged with black finishes 1t down the
side where 1t opens. The cuirass bodice
model, SO much liked by young girls with
slender, round figures. is carried out in
red crepe de chine and trimmed with narrow
black velvet ribbon. The skirt and upper part
of the waist are accordion plated. A pretty
bodice Of white muslin, striped with cream lace
insertion. is n part of a muslin gown with many
rows of the same insertion stripping the skirt up
and Town above q rufile Of lace. Black lace in
scrtion trims another white muslin, and tha
bodice has a cream guipure bolero with black
chiffon frills around the edge.
Yachting gowns have a prominent place In
the dress parade at the seaside. and serge. blue
drill, piquG, and a soft white silk are the favor
lite materials. Gowns OF tho latter have wide
collars and belts OF deep blue silk. which mako
them very striking. and the full blouse waist IL
the ruling style in all materials. Braid in black,
white, blue, and red Is the usual trimming on
the serge and drill gowns, and white or red
leather belts are an indispensable addition 10
every yachting costume. One stylish blue serge
gown shown has a guipure yoke over white silk,
lace e~paulets, and white braid trimming. An
other gown of white Is trimmed with red braid,
while the reverse order is the coloring in the
third gown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

are deftly arranged under a few stray locks of
your own hair, and all sorts OF artistically made
coils, puffs, toupees and short curls are mingled
with your trcsses so cunningly that your best
friend never suspects their existence. The maid
who accomplishes so much with so little will tell
you, too, that all these things are very much In
fashion and are sold in fabulous quantities.
especially for wear at the seashore, where any
attempt at legitimate crimping of your own locks
is a wicked waste OF time, since five minutes in
the heat and damp air can turn them into a
straight stringy fringe.
large loose waves are inst as desirable in
summer as in winter. and the extreme high
pompadour, has lost none of its popularity. The
simple little knot, with a coli around IL ar
ranged high on the head, Is a pretty way of
dressing the hair with the pompadour front, or
softer twist.
Evening c%oiffures arc completed by the addi-
tion or some ornament, an aiErette, a loon and
how OF spnngled tulle. a little wreath Of small
roses, with a floral aigrette in the centre, or one
OF all.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

pleasing inspirations are the pure white gowns
Of muslin. crepe de chine, glace silk, and chiffon.
White chiffon, exquisitely trimmed with ap-
pliqu6 figures of old Mechlin lace made over
white satin. with ruched transparent sleeves, is
one Of the daintiest white gowns worn. White
muslin gowns trimmed with deep vandykes of
black lace insertion from the hem TO the mock,
and others with innumerable ruffies on the skirts,
each one edged with ono row OF narrow black vel
vet ribbon, stand out in striking contrast among
those OF pure white. Powered muslins and fou.
iArds In both light and dark grounds, trimmed
deliberately with lace insertion, appear in the
morning as well as the afternoon. with tho
ubiquitous shirt waist and tailor.made coat and
skirt. Ono pretty white finely spotted muslin,
rather unusual in finish. has a square trans.
parent yoke Of string colored guipure back and
front and a nockbaud OF the same lace with
VAenciennes edging at the back, and the mus.
lin is tucked all around below the yoke. The
akirt 10 made with q wide dounce edged with
two little frills OF narrow VAlenciennes and two
rows OF guipure insertion set in around the hipS.
White muslins arc very much Morn for even,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
Wv Drsrors ~ oUnrA1na.


fer the Csufns eeaseu.
The stylish lace curtains for noxt season are
elaborateiy decorated with ribbon work. The
designs which, according 10 the dealers, will DO
most popular are floral, and are very pro
nounced. When carried out on cream nets with
white satin ribbons Of various widths the effect
Is very striking.
The newest curtains have centres OF plain
coarse nets, with an edge Of lace and an inner
border of ribbon work. One pair Of curtains
whose design is particularly beautiful has an
edge OF Renaissance lace eight or ten inches
dccp, with an inner border twelve inches wide
OF Marie Antoinette design, showing long
handled baskets filed with flowers and caught
together with bowknots. The baskets, flowers,
and bowknots are all worked in cream satin
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
SIZE WEARS HER CROSS.
wsmnn's New Fancy for n Fashion OF the
Grandmother

The up'todate woman wears her cross II he
is so fortunate az TO possess one. A. an article
OF jewclry, this symbol Of suffering is as pop
ular asst was in the days of the grandmorl,"s,
When the ~Grnndmothers were girls tho poses
sion OF a handsome bojowelled cross that rouli
be worn MS a pin. "A hair ornament. or II lo,ae'
amounted almost to a badge OF nr-'n-
or pearls or both. were highest in fa,,r.
ms they are to-day. Tho fashiopablc ross
must, be antiGne looking. Not evcT.'"o}s
jewellers have come to the rescue OF the woman
who did not fall heir to one and are bringing ut
are studded with precious stones, and w'uT
have backgrounds of black enamel. II IL uy .
means a taking form OF personal ~adoruw'h.,
hut the women like 1t.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
FASHIONS FOE THE HAIR.

Perfection I'm the Art That ConceaIs ITSELF
Shown by the Hnirdresscra.
ut is the perfection of art to conceal art, the
hairdressers are in this sort of deception in ad-
vance of their competitors in ministering to the
needs OF women. Wavy, soft pompadour fronts
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
HINTS FOR THE HOUsEHoID.

Silver sweetmeat and bonbon dishes arc
being laid aside. and odd. fancy-shaped fine
china ones, beautifully decorated, are the
present caprice. This Is because diversity 10
desired, for nothing can eclipse beautiful silver
for elegance. The favorite ice-cream platters
are still the decorated china or ~cut-glass re-
ceptacles which Mt into silver frames with tiny
r upon q tS sU oatsias Sf t thst d Il sH e does %oa' not oo SD% in
contact with the table cloth.
The inventor Of the modern kitchen tables was
Interested In the housekeeper's comfort, for be-
sides supplying the table with the usual two
broad drawers, he put In underneath these ono
largo drawer in the form. of q half circle, the
deepest part measuring about sixteen inches,
f Inas gi %artisls a tbat srs alwa ssse ppssSsa for many
1t is well to know that IL salt fish is wanted
quickly tho fish Is freshened much sooner IL
soaked in milk, milk that is turned being as
good for the purpose as the fresh milk.
flour should be- sifted over the cake and tben,
wiped of with a soft cloth before applying tho
icing.
Small. quantity shaped gilt baskets filed with
S~ee. peas ,v ana G Tith the Sm handles ID n;t Of the baskets
the blossoms in color, were the favors at a re.
cent dinner.
When purchasing q pineapple select one with
its green. spiky leaves in perfect conditions; cut
this top from the fruit and plant 1t In n pot of
earth. 1t will grow and &c a desirable plant,
looking well among other green plants in the
winter season.
II tho tea sleeper contains any cold tea and
soaked leaves, no matter how small an amount,
90 not throw. away, but pour every few days
into the cut-glass water bottles. Shake the bot
Ties well and then thoroughly rinse in clear
bottles will remain bright and clear.
LukewRrm water is far better to use for re-
moving beer stains upon glass than either hot
or cold water. After washing. glasses should be
stood to drain for u moment, and then dried on
one clean towel and polished on another.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

gown IL distinguished for its simplicity, plain
hens, tucks, and q fetching sash boing the only
required decoration; but tho muslin gown for
the moro mature young woman Ii lavishly
adorned with lace.
in tho summer fashions 10 tho soft, graceful
effects which characterize the latest gowns, and
Of course the light transparent materials have
contributed much toward this, for they arc
easily adapted to all sorts Of shirrinRs, puffs and
plaitings. Tho fohu, and especially the Marie
Antoinette fchu with n succession Of frills
across the ends, Is worn with great effect by the
right woman, who understands how to arrange
It coquottishly in q soft knot and fasten 1t In
place with jewelled pins. Fichus are decidedly
pretty with the low evening bodice, and they
can DO purchased all made Of various soft ma
~terials, and the ruffles headed with q row Of
spanRles.
Romney's pictures furnish tho models for
some of the quaint summer gowns, but unfor-
tunately picture gowns cannot transform every
woman into a picture. She must have a pecu.
liar type Of beauty in figure and face to repro
duce tho old.time fashion, and express the re-
hnement of taste which this style of dress re-
quires to mako 1t o success, and give 1t that In
describable charm.
A turquoise blue grenadine is made very
pretty with q white chiffon fchu bordc-od with
yalonciennes lace frills, a white moire vest,
and lace-edged frills Of grenadine on the skirt.
Another pretty idea is a pale blue muslin
trimmed on the skirt with broad tucks alternat-
ing with insertions of Valenciennes lace to the
knee. The bodice has a little coat Of lace and .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25
Pure Food for All.


rolls, mullins, dumplings, ETC., can only be
made with the very best and purest baking
powder. Ordinary cream of tartar and soda,
or baking powders containing lime, alum or
phosphates, do not make the finest food, while
they carry deleterious ingredients into it.
The absolute purity and superlative
strength of the Royal Baking Powder make
it the most useful and wholesome 1eavening
agent. 1t contains no lime, alum, phosphate
or other adu1terant, leaves no alkaline or acid
residuuh, in the food, and its use insures pure,
light and sweet bread, biscuit and cake, that
are perfectly digestible and wholesome, whether
hot or cold, fresh or stale. Its work is always
uniform, its food is always good.
The Royal Baking Powder contains no I'M
purities, adulterants or unwholesone ~constitu-
ents whatever. y y y A baking powder
unequalled for purity, strength and wholesome
WILLIS G. TUCKER, MD, Ph.D.,
Mew York State Analyst.
ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

generously fitted out for the season; and clothes.
with all their pretty charm, become a burden
whom you have to wend your way back to town
In July and order four or five new gowns.
Dress at this fashionable seaside resort Is an
interesting medley OF colors and designs, and q
description Of what is not worn is a much
simpler matter than any detailed account OF the
panorama Of fashion as It really appears at the
bathing pavilion in the morning and the Casino
In the evening. A gown of some striking color
n the ono which first meets your eye. 1t may
DO red. pink, blue. or green organdie. silk. or
gauze; but II 1t is in one decided tint 1t is one
OF tho seasons successes. from the point
OF view whore success In dress is meas
ured by the amount of attention it at
tracts. The prevailing colors. however. arc
not aggressive this season. soft. delicate
tints being more generally seen than the glaring
shades. Despite the craze for color, the most
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-07-25

and a belt and bows of pale blue velvet. White
crepe de chine with n white chiffon fchu is an
other charming model. and the pretty white
muslin has three little frills of narrow valen-
ciennes lace on the rufles and between TIN
tucks on the bodice. A bntiste gown with ac-
Gordon plated skirt has applique figures of
lace all around the skirt, and a blouse coat
bodice, one Of the latest Partisan fancies.
The backward tilt-up, SO characteristic of
French gowns, is shown again in the next model
Of Powered muslin, trimmed with insertions Of
lace and narrow frills. Another dress OF mauve
canvas over q darker shade of mauve silk is
scalloped on the bottom over two little frills
and finished round with satin, with a tiny black
silk cord on one edge. Tho bodice is finished In