The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-09-03
for Juoamen

The first OF September may mean the
end OF the summer SO far as the season
is concerned, but from the point OF VIEW
Of clothes there are still several weeks
when summer costumes must De worn,
and many smart frocEs that have evil
IDENTITY just been taken from their boxes
are now to be ~scea-gowrs of wash ma
terial as well as those of thin wool or
silk. Among these rev costumes are to
be noticed quite distinctive styles as TO
the width of the skirts 9nd che size of
the sleeves and the trimmings; these
Points are all worth noticing, for they
are certain to be reproduced in the win
ter gowns-indeed. It is a mooted ques-
ton as to whether they are not set
forth somewhat as an experiment. Fash
ion is said to be a most arbitrary despot,
but American good taste does not blind
ly accept all her mandates, and always
finds some way to modify the starting
and outre effects that are becoming TO
few women. Individuality is desirable,
but must not be COMPOUNDED with con-
spicuousness; one is smart, the other
loud.
Brighter oolors are fashionable on
gowns and hats now. and satisfactory re-
suits can be secured by some bright
ribbons or trimming on a gown that has
done duty all summer. Dark vests in
place of the white chiffon and lace will
make a light colored gown sufficiently
sombre for autumn wear. while substitute
ing red flowers in place of white feathers
will completely transform a straw hat
that has too summary an appearance.
Bingham gowns made with lining are
quite warm enough to wear until really
- -. -; a-I Tf rnnIa of AarE
coloring are as useful as and much more
comfortable than serge or cheviot. This
seasons ginghams are to be had in
plaids. checks. and stripes, and of most
suitable and effective colors- In red and
white check a charming gown is made.
trimmed around the foot of the skirt
with full narrow ruffles, edged with yell
low Valenciennes lace. The waist has a
full front. trimmed also with narrow lace
edged ruffles, but much narrower and
palmer than those on the skirt, accord
ing 10 'tHarper's Bazar.'i The sleeves
are snirred, and around the wrist are
again the ruffles. A soft collar and belt
are of red foulard. edged with lace. This
gown is lined throughout with red silk
the skirt. however, being separate from
the lining-and the silk adds greatly to
the effect.
Another pretty gown, which is rather
smarter if perhaps more conspicuous, is
of red and white plaid. not check, over
which are rough white threads that give
a raised look. This also is made up over
red silk, but there is no trimming on
the underskirt. On the silk petticoat.
however, are fiounces and %ruffles, which
max it stand out, and also give a flare
to the gingham skirt. The waist is de-
cidedly warm, having first the tight-ht-
ting lining of red silk, then the gingham.
and over this a sleeveless lace jacket of
bands of guipure lace alternating with
bands of ribbon. This lace jacket is
somewhat On the plan of the new style
of waist that the French call casaque,
with a little frilI below the waist, which
makes it look smarter and newer than
the ordinary blouse
The sleeves are plain, almost tight
fitting, but just at the top there are
ruffles of the Bingham edged with lace.
With this gown is worn a sash of red
crepe de Chine the full width of the ma
terial. tied around the waist, with the
loose ends knotted in front and falling
to the hem of the skirt. There is a small
vest of red crepe de Chine and a white
satin collar, with a ruff of red chiffon
at the back of the neck. Still another
ginglhm gown which is distinctive and
noticeable is of blue and white stripe; on
each seam are sewed strips of lace ap-
pliQue put over black satin ribbon, and
the waist is made of strips of the inser-
ton over the ribbon, will only a little
of the Bingham showing between each
strip.
A black satin stock collar and a broad
sash Of black satin ribbon complete the
=
blue taffeta silk.
1t might be stated in parenthesis that
the cost of the Bingham itself is the very
least consideration of these gowns which
are SO extensively lined and trimmed.
49,.
A bright red denim, which also is eff
f~ective. is trimmed with black braid. four
rows of which outline each seam of the
fve-gored skirt. The waist is tight
fitting in the back, but in front has the
usual blouse effect, and is trimmed with
rows of black braid put on from shoulder
to belt. HnA black satin collar and mar
row black satin belt with steel buckle are
the finishing touches of this smart gown.
A pale green denim is made with no
trimming whatever on the underskirt.
The waist. a sailor blouse, has the usual
sailor collar made of white duck, but
edged around with a pale green satin rib
bon. In front. where the collar grows
narrower, there is a wide bow of satin
ribbon. The vest-piece is of white India
silk tucked and pleated like a shirt front
tnd finished with little stud buttons The
belt is a pale green leather with a gilt
buckle. This costume is almost exagger-
atedly plain, but the lines are so good
that it is exceedingly smart.
''Our grandmothers did without baking
powder, and We're not sensible of any
difficulty in preparing quick dough-"
writes Ella Morris kretschmar in the
September .Wonan's Home Companion"
But one wonders if results were not
oftentimes. crude. because of the nice care
necessary in using soda. In fact, there
are certain legends respecting greenish-
yellow or spotted biscuit. at which the
present generation of housekeepers smile,
thanks to -baking-powder. Soda. an alkali
very Injurious to the stomach. should
never be used without an acid to render
it a neutral salt. as cream of tartar, mu-
riatic'acid or sour milk, and the proper
ton must be exact or the mixture will be
either acid or alkaline.
Pure baking powders are simply a