New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-20
BLOUSE EFFECTS IN PARIS,
NOVELTIES OF EARLY SUMMER SEEN
ON THE BOULEvARDS.
A WORD ABOUT coRsErs AND HOW FRENCH
FASHION is PREFERABLE TO ENGLISH
SOME NEW DESIGNS

"Elouse" has come to mean almost any top
showing a little fulness and ending at the waist.
but we see now a number of real blouses. as well
as the waists styled so by courtesy. A favorite
model for costume "trotteur.' for bicycling
yachting or gowns with more pretension
10 elaborateness has q blouse full all about, beted
snugy about the waist. with three or four inches
showing below the belt. These hip pieces are not
ruffes for they only represent the amount OF 1ui-
ness that is in the cloth In the upper part OF the
blouse This has the appearance OF an uhtheo
blouse belted about the figure.
WORD ABOUT CORsETs.
It's unnecessary to state that the Partisan does
not tuck away all that unnecessary cloth under
her belt The waist generally finished at the belt
and the rufle added to the skirt In the case OF
blouse intended TO be worn with various skirts. If
made In this fashion 1t must. Of course. have the
hip pieces as part Of the garment.
There is generally fitted under lining, although
this same shape is used for cool. comfortable
rner blouses that hardly pretty except on a
slender figure.
How small-waisted women are now, with full
skirts and full bodices strapped in by leather
belt. Tight lacing" one is inclined to say. but
really the trimness Of the waist is largely sug-
gested by contrast 10 the funess about 1t. and If
the Parisenne does pull her stays in trife too
much she does 1t at the most comfortable and
least dangerous spot-the very waist line.
The corset affected by the Englishwoman-per-
haps not by the best class although they are all
more or less sinners in this respect. much to the
despair Of their Paris dressmakers-may pinch the
figure IN iron frame for Its whole distance OF
twelve TO fifteen inches, but the style Of stays
approved of in Paris is only fashioned with the
idea OF nipping in the waist.
THE IDEAL IN STAYS.
The ideal corset from French standpoint. is
the one that can do this the best, with the least
discomfort and has generally a straight busk in
front which must be renewed when It loses Its
shape and the pinching-in is done on the Sides
Such a corset gives small waist full hips and
natural bust which Is the style of figure the
Parsienne reaches for; and these full blouses the
fad G the II make n the fs sPe or
garment. This certainly promises to be season
o"h de 81 Example of this blouse style is shown
In a gown of coarse navyblue fanny, built over
white silk. the white showing through the loose
mesbes of the stuff The blouse bodice hangs
a trine sailor fashion, over the high belt OF folded
coIisp OF heavy white lace mounted over bright
red From a French standpoint the gown is better
Promenade. but navy blue white and red are easy
Combinations that can hardly fail to be effective
VISITING FROCK
A gown sufficiently elaborate for visiting frock
In the city Is of pearlgray damage. combined with
a silk OF Scotch plaid. A braided pattern on the
wool skirt is carried out In the colors shown in the
plaid and the fancy silk makes the blouse and hip
rufes. over the shoulders is deep double bertha
collar Of the gray. edged with the bright prading:
II is a mistake 10 affirm that brading has gone
out" in Paris To be sure. II has been appearing
for months on shop costumes, which Is pretty good
testimony against H. but smart tailors ana uress-
makers are SIN using it, Brading 10 be at all de-
sirabe now must not only be hand~dohe put III
some novel. artistic pattern.
Taor-nade jacket suits are palmer In regard 10
trimming than they were during the winter h G
often have garniture at all, save the wlGe
straps the seams although the severely pam
suits generally built of notified or checkeu
cloths. Outside OF tailor made suits, II Is a DIT
original to untrimmed gown.
CASHMERES POPULAR.
The embroidered cloths and cashmeres remain
popular for heavy gowns: that is, popular In an ex-
elusive sense, for as all the work is by hand. the
price Of these dainty gowns Is not a small one.
There is a strong feeling this season against ma,
crime work ana pattern lengths whether prsioeu
OF embroidered best avoided.
A charming frock is embroidered and perfo,
rated white cloth made up over foundation OF duii
yellow sik The skirt has row OF emproiGery
and perforation some eight inches deep making
the fevorite apron curve added 10 by a hounce or
yellow lace the hem of the skirt being quite plan
The entire blouse-bodice is embroidered with sum
Gent openwork 10 show the yellow lining, and Is
hung from q square yoke of lace laid over yellow
silk hounce Of lace edging the yoke. The sleeves
the elbow have odd little puff of lace. showing
the brighter lining
DOLI-LIKE EFFECTS.
What doll-like women we are TO see this summer
X the summer models are reproduced in exact
form. Sloping shoulders. tiny waists and puffs
tucks and rufies make up these gowns
There are any amount of sashes TO be worn by
quite grown-up girls-sashes with wide bows and
long ends behind and soft belts pulled down into
point the front OF the skirt The long waist line
In front is liked now and the pointed manner Of
arranging belt carries out this idea; nut this