Omaha daily bee., 1897-08-01
HINTS ABOUT FALL STYLES.
Elegant simpiicity the Ruie-Cuminr
NcedIework on Clothes.

EIcgnn Simpiicity the
NcedIework on clothes.
PARIS. July 20.-Once 1t pleased a great
queen to dress as a dairy maid, and ~posterity
remembers her better for this travesty than
perhaps for anything else she did, 1t Is a
success that may well inspire the dress ANA
teurs once In a generation or so, and they
have certainly bethought themselves OF 1t
this year. For simplicity Is now the fashion,
and rustic effects are the top notch of chic.
Muslin gowns, hemmed and tucked, and
tied behind with a sash with long ends, are
being worn by the most elegant women in
France. II is delightfully."- naive. One Is re-
minded OF Mary Smith and Jane Davis come
into Jonesville to see the circus. Peanuts,
please, and pink Lemonade.
Somebody asked NJ. Doucet how all this
came about, and here Is what he oracllarly
said: The fashions are thus because they
were not so last year, and they VIII be other
wise In autumn, because they are thus now
and NJ. Doucet is one Of the seven sages of
Paris.
The reader may ravel this enigma to suit
herself; the plain fact remains. A gieat
many white muslins are worn. and the col
ored muslins are in such simple tints as are
to be found at the village store. A straw
berry red Bingham, tied with a white sash,
makes a fashionable dress. This dress may
be tucked or rufied, or have some insertions
of cluny lace. but the trimming must not IN
pose; there must remain always the simple
contrast Of the strawberry red gown and the
big white sash.
RUSTIC AND SIMPLE.
1t is the general effect only that must rig
orously be rustic and simple; the making
may be as difficult as you please. AS | have
said in a former letter, the material may be
tucked and appliqued, and otherwise needle
worked as though 1t were trOusseau under
wear. Thus a gown being worn by the
duchess Dues Is certainly of white muslin
taAI ..tNL - ,aaI I., ,Ln Liz t, H. t,nA nr.r
tapping parts, each one tucked vertically,
with the lower part of each left loose to form
a founce. The blouse is incrusted with lace,
the sash of yellow Grape ends in fringe. and
the neckband of yellow satin is appliqued
over with lace. A white organdie Just made
for Nine. Achille Fould, wife of the rich
banker. is trimmed with ruches Of white
tulle. This trimming is a novelty, and is
used on hats as well as on gowns. The
ruche is box plated and full, and measures
about three inches across.
But plain or elaborated the general idea
Is the same, and there is just as much style
in a tucked gown as in an embroidered one,
II II conforms to the type.
More costly gowns are Of black ~chantilly
lace over white faille or over a color. Very
pretty gowns are made also of black tulle.
One being worn by the Baroness de Barge, of
black tulle over rose, is trimmed with mar
row black satin ribbon. The skirt has clus-
ters of o at intervals all the way up the
Shl u, anu Nlt bloh1t IL. Tau L Ioi NploAlNi
AS a novelty may be cited a gown made
for the Baroness de FriCourt, of i~ron-gray
corded greaadine trimmed with gold galloon.
The color tendencies noticed in my last
letter are confirmed; it is the primary tints
that have most vogue. Yellow is much worn,
and elegance in this direction is exempliied
in a gown of yellow foulard printed with
white palm leaves, with a yellow hat trimmed
with white and black plumes and a white
gauze parasol with yellow stick.
An tho pnatnrio1c and iha fprr,c onI nplprc
above mentioned may be relied upon as sug-
gestions for evening dresa when cool weather
comes. For the first evening gowns are al
ways a modification of summer dress, and
when M. Doucet said that things would
change in the autumu he was speaking hy-
periodically, merely to round out his eng
matte speech. The fashion may go steady by
jerks, but it follows the high road all the
same.
YACHTING COSTUME.
For elegance in this sort Of dress there
are certain conditions that remain always
the same. The materials must stand wear,
and there should be simplicity and charac-
ter in the forms. The problem is special.
The materials being used are English
woods, serges, homespuns and twilled fan
nels. A good many costumes are all white,
a good many are in fine checks, and | have
seen at a great ~ressmaker a masterpiece
in chocolate trimmed with white braid.
The costume may be made with a blouse
vi d Jdchet. IL piouSe uToopS rather low
over the belt all round; it is open down
the front, over a %plastron, and has large
square revers and a standing collar. This
blouse may be tucked or trimmed with
braid. One in chocolate has a ~plastron of
white flannel and the revers and collar
faced with white flannel. 1t is covered all
over with narrow white braid in lines run
ming round, the lines looped at intervals.
The loops coming one under the other, form
a pattern running up and down. The same
pattern in the same white braid rms Oyer