Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-09-18
FOR WELL-DRESSEO MEN
What They Will Wear During the Coming
Fall Season.
Heavy Tweeds and CheviOts Will BE
Much Used-NO Radical Changes
to BE Made.
From IIarper's Bazaar.

There seems to exist an impression
among the manufacturers and the tailors
that the autumn is to be early and cold,
and that snow may be expected long before
Thanksgiving. At least, this is So If one
may judge from the heavy materials which
are already being shown for the autumn
fashions. Tweeds and cheviots and home
spuus will be worn in business and morning
suitings There is little variation in the
colors, gray mixtures leading and brown
closely following. The rough blue cneviots,
which were quite popular this summer,
make capital autumn sack suits, and with
light overcoats will be worn well into the
winter. The double-breasted REFERS of
this material and in the same color in the
smooth goods are yet very fashionable.
They are dressy and on tall and thin men
are quite slightly, but they accentuate
stoutness and smallness of stature. All
sack suits otherwise will be made single
breasted Men returning from England
seem to have taken to checks, and there is
a disposition to make them popular this
autumn. A very smart suit, fresh from a
London tailor, was of dark gray turning
TO drab homespun with the check bar
black Tho English still cling to the morn
ing or cut-away coat in all rough materials,
but this one was sack, just slightly cut
away at the bottom. In this country it
would be called a three-button sack cut
away. There are many cut-away suits i'll
rough goods for morning and busiEe IS wear
but they only be Worn by the tall man
who seems to have the preference in tailors'
models. But short nen have their innings
in the striped chevots and the dark ma
terials with white stripe pattern which
were so much seen this summer, and which
Will be reproduced in heavier cloths Be
fore dis!niSsing this branch of the subject
1t would be well to give the measurements
Of the American taiors in regard to the
cut-away business coats. The waist length
is put at ~ and the full length at 33 inc h
es. Double-breasted fancy waistcoats will
be much the fashion, especially with men
who can wear these long wasted emf
Always trousers are cut this year 50 as to
taper little more, but neither too tight nor
too loose; at the bottom about 171s inches
and at the knee about 49,
Inc English frock coat is made with silk
iaclngs and fiat braiding. 1t is rather
loose, but not too loose, and reaches ouite
down to the tend Of the knee The skirts
are close-ftting anG Dhe material duII
Nicuna. 1t Is of course double-breas ted
me American is little freer than the
English. but about the same proportions
The coat has a long collar. TWO inches
wide at the ends. and peaked lapels There
is silk roll faced to the button holes
Trousers to be worn with froek coats are
of cashmeres or worsteds, In narrow
striped patterns on dark grounds. Waist
coats with frock coats will be double
breasted, any number of those in fancy
silks being popular.
In evening dress there is some innoya-
ton. The shawl-collars evening coat Is
again being advocated by the tailors. In
England 1t is called the roll collar and the
collar itself and the lapel roll to the waist.
are covered with heavy twilled silk or peau
de sole. The waistcoat has pear-shaped
opening, and is trimmed with narrow
wave braid. 1t has no collar. The maze
rial is dull surface worsted, and the body
and skirt of the coat are lined throughout
with silk. The peaked-lapel evening coats
are much more conservative, and really in
haf fnx frr
tremely long collar, and are silk-faced to
the edge or to the button holes. The Amer
lean coats have waist length of is and
full lergth of from 81 to IS inches In
one of these peaked-lapel coats, with the
SILK facings brought out to the extreme
edge. The skirts were very long, and the
garment was lined with heavy silk The
dcuble-breasted white Marseiiles waistcoat
Is much worn with evening dress, and milf
tary ideas coming greatly into favor. the