Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-12-12

Many have the sling sleeve for the sake
of gracefulness only. for on an outside
garment a fairly close and warm under
sleeve very much worn in England, and es-
pecially chosen for tea gowns.
There is little new TO record in bicycle
costumes. the fur blouse jacket and tight
fitting skirt reaching to the ankles being
apparently accepted as the only model.
skirts short. and always a trifle more scant
than one sees in Paris. the English BIZ
cycle suit will do for almost any out-of-
door sport. The blouse IS generally of a
different material from the skirt. and Il
smart model has blouse jacket of plaid
velvet. to be worn with skirt of light gray
cloth. with black fur trimming on both
blouse and skirt.
The first dances of the season make it
evident that evening gowns this winter
will be cut with square necks, almost with
out exception. The round or oval of a wear
or W back is scarcely heard from. Point
ed or V necks keep up the struggle. but the
V Is generally cut off. front and back, as
a concession to the claims of the square.
a pretty variant on prevailing styles is
erected by throwing a not too voluminous
fchu of mousseline de sole rufiied with lace
over the shoulders. crossing the ends and
carrying them round the waist to hide
under the sash The crossing
should be made low enough to leave Il tri-
angle OF lace or of the bodice material
above. as if a square decollete was par
TALLY covered by the fichu. This SuggeS-
ton should be utilized for slender figures
only.
Another possible variant was illustrate
ed at the opera, when a bodice of tur-
quoise blue Eauze, embroidered with sill
Yer and cut very much off the shoulders.
was worn with straps of turquoise vel
vet: these started from the lace frill that
nnished the square front and ran, like
the sides of a broken ", up to the puffy
bows tied above the arms and doing duty
for sleeves. a narrow sash gave a re-
peat of color and material.
| The most usual modification of the
straight front is brought about by pulling
it down a bit in the middle with a bow,
a flower or a jewel.
The low cut neck is not in fashion. There
have been winters when decollete was a
euphemism as applied to the display cf
shoulder blades.
The pouched bodice is almost as DOM
inant in evening as by daylight. When
II does not obtain, some form of the en-
pre-, gown can be looked for more or less
confidently.
At 4 pretty cotillon danced a few ev-
enings ago a fashion leader wore a dress
mat serves as an excellent example of the
bell gown as it is worn. The design was
out i'll white and gold. On the skirt panels
OF Whlte accordion-pleated mousSeline de
sole over yellow silk alternated with mar
row panels of gold and white brocade: the
Slitterlng figures on the white ground We're
brought out in a jewel like brilliancy and
sparkie by n light powdering of minute
80 ttihN NV L "dlSItu tbu1th
was of white silk, crossed on the bosom
by gold. and white ribbons. which edged
the pointed corSelet belt and fell in long
ends from the right side. Above the cross
ing the ribbons ran over the shoulders
through handsome paste buckles. The belt
was OF spanEled gold and white brocade,
as was the deep V between the crossing
bodice ribbons; There were small pointed
epaulettes of brocade on the shoulders
overlapping the little wings of accordion,
pleated monsseline that apologized for the
lack of sleeves. 1t ought to have been
said before this point was reached that
the corSage was cut square aud low bur
not excessively decollete.
A high necked evening gown worn on
the same occasion was exceptionally arts
tic in design. The material was white
satin. showing through a yelling of eS-
quisite lace. patterned with flowers. The
slightly pouched bodice of chiffon and
lace was finished at the neck with n band
of old rose satin and a standing collar of
lace: at the waist it was held in by n dram
ed corselet belt of old rose velvet, bro
caded with cerise and yellow. There were
long white sleeves of white silk woven
with Eold threads, and at the back was a
cieyerly arranged Vatican train of gold
and white hrocade. divided by a fall of
Lice That widened toward the bottom.