The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-03-17
ideas tor dMnmem.

upon. The bishop sleeves, which were
h marked characteristic last season, will
no longer be worn. but the ones fitting
loosely to the arm and fulled in at the
armhole.
Yokes. pointed or round, will be fash
icnable again. but will be only on theh
back, not the front, of the waist, and
there will not be so much fullness in front
and more slope at the side seams. The
band at the neck VIII be so finished that
the detachable collars can be worn, and
the collars themselves win not be so wide
nor exaggerated. Blouse waists that
can be worn. outside the skirts will also
be fashionable, modelled after the fur
ones that are so smart and becoming
this winter, and will, of course, look
rather more like waists than shirts.
AS for the materials. there are many
new patterns in the Madras and other
linens, Persian designs in India silk, and
some rather crude colorings in plain silk
and linens. 1t is said plain white wal be
the favorite color. and Judging from the
goods. 1t would seem that such would be
the case. Old-fashioned d.mities, white
cheviots, and even sheer 1nuslfn-all are
among the new goods displayed for sum
mer wear.
There seems to be every reason to be-
1ieve that the smooth plain cloths will be
the favorites for spring costumes. Drap
d'ete, cashmere. ladies. cloth, nave all
been in fashion this winter, and even
more suitable for spring wear. Al the
wood coiors viii be worn, while delicate
shades of gray, a queer currant red, and
bright blues are also to be fashionable;
the smooth finished silks are most ex-
quisite in coloring and texture, and the
choice as to color unlimited.
Some of the smartest gowns made UP
this winter are of the stamped velveteens
and corduroys, and these materials are
not too heavy for spring wear. In these
the wood colors are. beautiful, and the
sheen is indescribably soft and effective,
and shows to great advantage with the
stamped cony~entionalized patterns thai
are the correct thing. Guipure lace and
velvet trim the wood colors most effect
lively, but some of the ,sfnartest gowns
are made severely plain, with a line of
white satin showing at each and every
seam.
Flounced INT ruffled skirts, such as
were worn years ago, are again to be
Fashionable. This is a difficult style for
any but a skilled dressmaker to attempt
or a slender woman to wear, but having
the LOUNGES dropped downward is far
more satisfactory and becoming than
when they are put on straight around
and this is not so difficult to accom-
plish.
Flounces m ruffles galore we may
as well be prepared for, as they will
be seen on every cow of thin material
and cordings and pipings also are to be
used. Everything elaborate and '.fussy''
win be fashionable on the thin gowns,
n lace and embroidery vii AXE a
new lease of life. So much can be
definitely stated as to the spring and
summer fashions of 's7.
OF all the gowns that are difficult to
make satisfactorily as regards fit,
"hang," and becoming effects, the prin-
cesse gowns are certainly the foremost;
but the style, when well carried out, is
SO exceedingly handsome that it must
needs occasionally be in fashion, accord
ing to 'Harper's Bazaar" Just now there
are some exceedingly smart ones worn,
in velvet and brocade and satin MORE.
In pale mauve figured velveteen is a
particularly noticeable model, made with
out any trimming, except in the front of
the waist, which is slashed to show a
full satin blouse, covered with jabots of
white lace.
On either side of the slashing is a mar
row trimming of passementerie. TIL
sleeves are almost tight-atting, with but
terf1y puffs on the shoulders. Anything
more simple than this gown would be
hard to discover, but it was conspicuous
a. -..-.- -l-.. - --a.--
was superb. A wide long pelerine of
Russian sable, and a big purple velvet
hat on the poke order, trimmed heavily
with ostrich feathers. and just a hint of
yellow, added, of course, greatly to the
finish of the costume.
Another princesse gown, Of blue cloth,
was trimmed around the foot of the
skirt with bands of Persian lamb, and a
6chulike trimming of the same fur OPEN
- in front to show a V-shaped piece
of cream satin heavily brocaded in gold.
This gown was somewhat on the polo
naise order. for in front it opened down
near the hem, and shows a lining of
cream satin and a glimpse OF an under
skirt of blue silk. A small bonnet of
rhinestones with ostrich feather tips,
black and white, is worn with this cos
tune, which is the perfection of good
style and artistic lines.
Many of the new evening gowns are
on the princesse model, but about the
waist (not the waist-line) the material is
draped rather than tight-itting, and has
almost the effect of scanty bias folds;
the undermining, of course, fits tight and
plain. When the long line can be given
from the bust to the hem of the skirt,
and the ~fullness of the skirt thrown well
to the back, these gowns do not neces-
sarily accentuate the size of the hips, but
the fullness In the side seams is hard
to do away with, and ever an inch too
much gives a "dowdy'' look that is very
unbecoming.
House gowns in brocade or peau de sole
are exceedingly pretty made in this fash
ion, and some of the newest have a
Vatican pleat in the back, which AXE
them more becoming. In pale pink bro
rade, made on these lines, with full
front of white lace ruffles over rose-pink
satin, the ruffles covering the entire front
from the neck to the hem of the gown,
is a very smart gown, and one that can
easily be made from some a gown that
has ions duty long enough to be passe.
1t will pay to study the characteristics |
md requirements of the various plants in