davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

decorated with the American eagle and q blue
border, in Alhambra STYLE" as described in
the catalogue Of tho exhibition. This was,
doubtless. tho china used at the White House
during the Pierce administration the ware hav-
ing been brought from France, as in the case of
the later Lincoln china.
At tho beginning Of Mr.. Lncoln's second term
a duplicate OF the first service was ordered,
which was larger, however, in the number of
pieces. The order was placed this time through
John Vogt & Co. Of New York city, and Edward
Lycett tnow residing in Atlanta, Ga) was COM
missioned to paint it. The decoration of this
second set was more carefully done than that Of
the first, being wholly painted by hand, while
the Haughwout designs were first printed in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
NARY ELLEN LEASE IN sIR1HooD.
Some or Her Old NeiGhbors Remember Her No
. Writer Of Faulty Rhymes.

Some OF Hor OLD Nei9hbors Remember Her as
. Writer Of Faulty Rhymes.
oLEAN, N. Y, May 22.-There are a number
Of people In western New York who remember
Mary Ellen Lease when, as Mary Kline, she
lived in a little valley near Ceres, n. Y, known
as Kings Run. The Klines were natives OF
ireland. and came to this country several years
before the civil war and settled upon a farm
on Kings Run. which was also called Irish Set
Element. The family consisted OF "Old Joe
his wife, and seven children. "Old Joe" q
called to distinguish him from n son OF the same
name. and his eldest boy Patrick went as '"!'
unteers to the defense of the Union. Patri'S
was killed at the battle OF the Wildcrnrss and
his father starved to death in Andcrsonvilc,
Mary was not distinguished in the n%cight"r-
hood or in school for brilliancy. She owes her
success In life largely to two traits which we're
characteristic Of her oven in childhood-niA,,
bition and perseverance. She was a gn"i
reader and an unusually fine speaker. Shs
often attempted vorsitication. but her rhyme
and rhythm were faulty. Her mother and I!
younger sister composed poems which displayed
greater talent than did Mary's rhymes,
Mary is remembered by those who knew her
In childhood as reSolnte, self-reliant. and deNoll
OF timidity. She possessed a pleasant face, Ma
tall, slender, and Of good figure.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

bon Is run, coming out in front to form o rosette.
Accordion. plated lace-edged frills of the muslin
fall over the close sleeves, and a lace-edged rufle
trims the skirt. Rows OF lace insertion around
the skirt and full blouse bodice are a pretty
trimming, and fine tucks above the hem and in
the rufies are very much used. A blouse bodice.
with rows Of tucks between the lace insertion
all tho way around, is a pretty style for lounced
organdie. Dotted muslins trimmed with lace
are seen among the children's gowns made over
colored lawn or silk Innings.
Very serviceable gowns for young girls Of all
ages are made of colored and white piqu6s in
the coat and skirt style. and are trimmed with
plain, with pearl buttons as the only trimming.
Other pique dresses are made with a guimpe
yoke Of embroidery. or finely tucked white
tatiste with rows of insertion between the tucks,
berthas of embroidery, and rows Of insertion set
in the skirt.
The soft cashmeres 80 fashionable this season
make charming gowns for young girls, and in
light colors they are very dressy. Tucks mako
ribbon is also very effective in the cashmere
dresses. A pretty model for India silk 10 car
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
HINTS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.

The time for replenishing an old rose jar or
starting u new potpourri will quickly be here. SO
the following may help some one: Put half u
peck of freshly gathered rose leaves into a Jar
having q cover. Strew salt on the bottom of the
jar and among the leaves, using about a pint of
salt, and leaving a layer upon the top. For ton
days stir the leaves thoroughly twice In the
twenty.four hours. Now add three ounces of
crushed allspioe and one ounce of broken CHINA
mon sticks. and turn the mass over daily for one
cinnamon and cloves, two nutmegs cOarsely
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

and entire dresses, and among the Liberty
gauEes thore are two new varieties called Agra
gauze and Dalghali crepe. Tho former has a
soft, silky sheen, and the latter is recommended
as a good substitute for chiffon.
White gowns in any sort Of material will DO
quite as much worn as over despite the craze
for red, violet, and blue. Liberty gauze makes
the d~aintiest sort Of n gown TO wear summer
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

and Of the manufacturers was rapidly pushed
tho beach at Asbury Park, n. j., surrounded by
objects OF natural history, the artist prepared
his drawings. mainly from living models of hsh,
series OF designs, no two alike, which were thor
oughly American in spirit. The soup plates, for
obtusely pointed mountain laurel blossom, the
result being a shallow, bowl.shaped vessel, with
out tho hideous and inartistlc projecting rim
which usually charactorizes this variety OF plate.
On each OF these appeared a distinct, design-a
flock OF Wild ducks, a water view with q green
gunbo, an Indian seated on the beach, with the
body of a deer beside him.
For the hsh plates. tho design was composed
of two scallop shells, the base of one, overlapping
the other to form a circular outline. On the
smaller or under one the design of q fish or she'll
fish was painted, while the. other half wAs left
undecorated to hold the fish.
pirate In form and ornsmentati0n. the most
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

around the skirt. edged with narrow 6cru en-
broidcry and n white mousseline do sole bodice
under a bolero of the sill, trimmed with two lace
edged frills OF silk, the under one boing green.
A novel dress trimming seen on some OF the
light-colored cloth gowns is tho application OF
black Chantilly lace flowers. An example Of
this is a dull rose cloth with lace figures down
either side Of the front. and a pink and white
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

powdered, half an ounce Of aniseed bruised,
two ounces Of powdered orris root, half "A pound
OF lavender flowers. and some bits OF orange and
lemon peel; essential oils and fine cologne arc
frequently added also. Shake and stir the jar
twice q week and open IL only while 1t Is in usr,
This is the stock. A few fresh rose leaves with
the salt and spice should be added each year.
To have q custard pie of an even. nice brown
when baked, sprinkle a little sugar over the top
just before putting IL into the oven.
The best way to clean fine jewelry is to brush
It with gin and put in lockwood sawdust TO drv.
II two pairs Of shoes are kept in use together,
wearing them alternately, the shoes will give
more service and last longer than two pairs
worn ono after the other. Shoes like many other
things become tired and require an occasional
rost to do good work.
When you suspect what you are cooking has
been scorched because you have neglected it for
just one moment too long, lift the vessel holding
the food quickly from the fire and stand it in q
pan of water for q few minutes. In almost every
case the scorched taste will entirely disappear.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
Transparent Effects the Feat
ure of the Season.
CHARMS OF THIN DRESSES.
White Still Popular Despite the
Craze for Red, Violet, and Blue.

AZ Lenst One Gown That shows . CLEAN or Cell
ored LlninE Through Its HHeshes Almost n
Necessity for the Up-to-Date Woman-The
Rauge or overwhelmingly In the Fnncy
Ribbon. Used rs Trimminss-Protty Gowns
or the New Piaues and Gaures-Chcche Tar-
reta n Favorite Material In Paris-The Ne
tails or TrimminE and Combinations or Color
That Give Desirable style 10 . Gown.
Summer fashions multipl y very rapidly as the
season advances, and the charms of light, thin
dresses begin to define their fascinating posi-
bilities in tho feminine mind. They were never
quito so irresistible as they are this season.
Transparent effects stand at the head OF the
list OF specialties in fashion and 1t Is almost o
necessity to have at least one gown which shows
a CLEAN Of colored lining through Its meshes II
you would be quite up to date. Every sort Of
transparent material is in fashion. Canvas
presents q variety in weave and effect which 10
not surpassed by any other fabric. Grenadines
Of every description. both plain and fancy.
are very much worn, and grass lawn, in the
sheer fine silky quality. seems to be quito as
popular as ever, although authorities in
Paris declare that 1t has had its day. Very
elaborate gowns are made Of It, however. and
the colored silk Innings display to perfection
the lovely batiste embroideries with which they
are trimmed. Barege is another very desirable
material, and a new yelling very much like the
old nuns yelling Is one of the most attractive
fabrics of the season. 1t is very soft and cling
ing, an element in its favor which Is highly ap-
preciated by Parisians. and it also. In some in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

evenings at a fashionable summer resort. Tho
variety in thin white wool goods is exceedingly
pretty, and there is a great diversity in the
weaves; but the open mesh in basket checks is
perhaps the most fashionable according to the
seasons standard. One novelty has a fine cord
like poplin. but is woven In such a way that It is
partially Transparent. Cream white serge is
still on the list, and it is made up in the coat and
skirt style of costume. trimmed deliberately with
either white or colored braid. The coats are in
tho Elton or blazer style. with a basque six
inches deep. or In the form Of a bolero. White
duck and pique are made up in the same man.
ner. and the more elaborate gowns are trimmed
with rows of white embroidered insertion on the
skirt and around the jacket. Others are trimmed
with braid. and just as many are quito plain.
with o pretty colored shirt waist of silk or lawn.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

The new piqu6s with colored patterns make
pretty dresses, and in pale pink. yellow, and
blue. with satin stripes and dots, the colored
piques are very desirable. The range of cotton
materials is a large one this season, and there
arc pretty fine cr6pons and an assortment of
canvas weaves In Q variety Of colors which
make very stylish dresses, with all the appear
ance of being silk, the material Is 30 glossy.
Then there are crepe cloths in Japanese designs
and o silk and cotton mixed material which Is
used for tennis dresses. Certainly there need
be no scarcity Of pretty gowns this season. for
there arc materials suited to every purse.
Checked taffeta seems to be a favorite fabric
in Paris. and many pretty dresses are made of
these checks in various colors. One in pale gray
and pink is quite plain, with a plated bolero
front opening over q vest of pink gauze
trimmed with yellow lace. The model illus
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
FRUIT PLATE FROM THE Il OF 1879.

terry industry wares are now being produced
which are fully equal in composition and
artistic, treatment to anything made abroad.
What the present Administration vii, do in this
fully suggest the propriety of giving our own pot
ters the opportunity of furnishing to the White
House its official china for the next four years.
Certain lines OF ware are made Of greater excel
lence at some potterics than at others. Would
4 h,n not o DC well to place the meter in the
order from a number Of manufacturers tho
different course services, a set of oyster
requirements, a game set from another. soup
dishes from a third establishment, and so on.
ceramic art be encouraged and recognized In
this country by those In high nuthority3 Such a
service would be characteristic of American In
genuity and ability and would perhaps prove
far moro satisfactory than anything done for us
abroad. This suggestion Is at least worthy Of
careful consideration.
EDWIN ATLEE BARBER.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

such a trife for the materials and so much in
under dresses Of some plain color make the or
CANDIES very effective with the bright ribbon
bows and sash. The skirts arc often plainly
hemmed, except in the case Of the gored skirts
for older girls, which are trimmed with lace
Of lace Insertion and a frili of lawn around the
edge. The pretty model shown is in white. or
candle covered with pink rosebuds. The belt Is Of
white muslin embroidery through which pink rib
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

A PITCHER FROM THE LINCOLN BET.
outline and afterward filled in with the brush.
Tho difference in workmanship can DO readily
detected on close examination. This, in brief,
is the history Of the Lincoln porcelain. These
interesting facts. some of which are now gath
cred together for the first time, are not gener-
ally known.
Pieces Of both sets have been scattered among
public and private collections throughout this
country and in Europe. The largest series of
Lincoln pieces in private hands. perhaps. is that
in the possession of Commander and Mrs. #. w.
Dickins. which numbers sixty-one, including
examples OF both the 1881 and the 1855 varie-
ties. This valuable group Of historical china
was, OF course, obtained In entirely legitimate
ways, through public sales and private pur-
chase from second hand dealers. The same col
lection also contains many pieces from tho
Grant. Hayes and Harrison services.
The most elaborate and expensive set Of Presi-
1870. As tho story goes, the lady OF the White
House was about to order a new State table set
from France. which was to be decorated with
paintings of choice and rare American plants,
when Theodore n. Davis, an artist employed on
the stan Of Harper's Weekiv, suggested to her
the propriety Of ornamentinR the various pieces
with thoroughly American subjects, illustrating
the flora, fauna, and some of the historical
phases OF this country. The suggestion resulted
In the placing Of an order with Hayiland & Co.
for a service which should be entirely
designed, both shapes and decorations,
by Mr.. Davis. The work Of the artist
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Every sort of bodice is worn this season; yet
tho round waist rather has the lead. You can
have a two-inoh basque effect below the belt or
o bolero bodice ending two inches above, and
wide or narrow belts as they best suit the figure.
In addition to the variety Of round bodices there
are basques three and six inches deep extending
all around or just across the back and sides.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Fancy little bolero Jackets are made Of 6crt
linen. with a sailor collar across the back, ant
deliberately embroidered with gold thread.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Irish lace Is very popular for yokes and epau.
lette effects on foulard gowns. and 10 used In
edging and insertion as well.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Serpent skin Is q new trimming for tailor-mad,
gowns. and II Ia employed for entire revers ans
tiny bands on the cloth reverb
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

stances, has q narrow hemstitched border which
helps out the scheme Of trimming. making q
very simple serviceable gown, or q dressy one,
as you choose, a light or dark color. Satin rib
bon. in narrow widths, trims these dresses very
prettily. and is put in graduated widths on the
skirt, or ribbon four or five inches wide may DO
used as a ruffle down the two front and back
seams, beginning at q point at the bottom and
gradually widening to the full width ut the
hips, where it extends across from the front to
the back. Fancy ribbons, with contrasting
edges, are used in this way. and 1t Is pretty to
have the ribbon match the gown in color. with .
half-inch border of black satin on tho edge.
These wide fancy edged ribbons are also used
for bretelle effects, being gathered over the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

shoulders and tapering to a point at the waist.
back and front. Wide ribbons In checked de-
signs. with contrasting satin edges, are also
used as a skirt trimming, sown on plain q little
above the bottom edge. The variety in these
fancy ribbons covers every imaginable color
and design, and suggests all sorts Of possibilities
for their use az q dress trimming.
Transparent effects are not confined to the
plain materials, for there are pretty novelties
in brocaded designs which are transparent here
and there. A pretty example of the use Of this
is in a blue and green mixture made over green
and white shot silk. Mauve gauze forms the
sash, which has a fringe of gold and silver col
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

edged with narrow velvet ribbon, and worn
with a white guimpe by girls between q and IL
years of age. Figured satin foulards and finely
checked taffetas make fashionable dresses. and
one dressy costume for a girl OF IL 10 Of pink
glace silk combined with pink crepe dc chine
and cream lace insertion. White China silk is
especially pretty for young girls, and is made
up quite simply with skirts either perfectly
plain or with a trimming of lace-edRed frills or
rows OF insertion. The waists have u lace yoke
with u lace.trimmed ruiiie, finishing the edge.
The pongee dresses usually have a deep collar OF
embroidery.
The d~aintiest little dresses Of all are the flow.
cred organizes, dimities, and lawns, which cost
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

ried out in pink, with q white. green, and black
pattern on It. Tho skirt is ahirred in several
cords around the waist. Plaid ribbon forms the
muslin the frills over tho sleeves. Canvas Is q
popular material for tho older girls, and one
simple gown OF tan canvas Is trimmed with
bands OF white satin covered with cream
guipure. Embroidered 6cru batiste and colored
piqu6 arc both used as trimming for these gowns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
1897.

the back. Curls were arranged at either side of
the face, above tho ears, and the coronots worn
for full dress were SO far in front that they rested
ON tho forehead.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
COURT

Victorian Modes or FIFTY Years Ago Revived
ut the Recent Drawing Rooms.
The influence Of the early Victorian modes 10
conspicuously in evidence in the hsirdressins
seen at the recent drawing rooms, says an Eng.
lish paper. Many innovations suggested by the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
FRHLS OF FASHION.

It 10 said that Paris has o society for the aid
OF dressmakers. and M. CASTOR Worth III the
Secretary. The object Is to assist dressmakers
10 tide over the dull season, when so often they
have no work ct all. Money 10 lent them with
out interest in case of illness.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

havo O Snare, are supposed TO have suitable cos
tunes for each and every one.
One very sensible difference between the small
and the large gowns is the general use Of mex
pensive materials, and although silk is very
much worn by children of all ages, this year
China silk. pongec. and taffeta are usually en-
ployed. Accordion plated India silk, with q
white ground and Persian pattern in soft colors,
Is very pretty for the little frocks. which arc
mado with a short. low-necked waist finished
around the shoulders with q lace-trimmed
bertha of white batiste or with frills Of the silk
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

shot silk bodice made In bands Joined together
with open feather stitching of black silk, and
oblong pieces of the cloth trimmed with the lace
arranged over the shoulders. The use of color
Is a very important consideration in the world
of fashion, and one very stylish but striking con-
trast is the use of dark blue and mandarin yell
low. Wherever white satin can be combined
with this yellow the effect Is greatly improved.
The elaborate use OF black velvet ribbon Is
shown In the foulard gown illustrated, and bows
Of wider ribbon are the only decoration at the
top of the close, puffed sleeves. A simple dress
of ecru batiste is made over green silk, with two
rows of insertion around the skirt, a green silk
vest striped crosswise with insertion, and a col
lar of batiste edged with a frill Of embroidery.
The sash Is of green taffeta ribbon. Another
model. pretty for a variety Of fabrics, Is carried
out In the soft, open.meshed, ribbed material
patterned in heliotrope, black and white. Rows
Of cream lace insertion trim the ruffle and skirt.
and the bolero Is Of tucked heliotrope, taffeta
silk finished on the edge, with a hem Of white
mousseline de sole Joined with a narrow beading.
A collar of the muslin and silk turns down
around the shoulders, and the vest and belt
showing above and below the bolero are made
OF three shades Of green taffeta ribbon. A blue
and white foulard in the next cut shows q very
peculiar style of bodice made of finely tucked
bands Of the silk. between pufflngs of white net,
which are outlined with narrow frills Of net.
edged with a tiny hem OF the blue and white
silk. Insertions of net with the Same little
frills trim the skirt. and white ribbon finishes
the waist. This gown is certainly one good ex-
ample Of tho immense amount Of hand work
there is on the most fashionable costumes this
season. The applications Of lace, the frills, puff
fngs and tucks are all done by hand, SO it Is
labor, rather than the price OF materials. which
increases the cost OF our gowns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Pretty p~arasols are made of silk patterned
with peacock feathers.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Belts of plaid silk fastened with a metal buckle
are popular with English women. and belts of
every sort are a particular feature of dress.
Leather Of various tints forms a background for
signs. Agreen one dotted over with turquoise
10 especially good style.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

Gauge made of vegetable silk Is one of the sea.
sons specialties employed largely In millinery,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

RUFUS of chiffon lace and ribbon are very fash
ionable In Paris, and they are made high at the
back. with long ends In front and a deep iounce
of chiffon around the shoulders.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

The best way to clean fine jewelry is to brush
It with gin and put in lockwood sawdust TO drv,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

styles Of fifty years ago have crept into this
speciality of dress. Three has been the regula-
ton number Of feathers worn. but now the NUN.
Der is increased at will. making some variety in
this elaborate headdress. The Illustrations
show one variety of the modern court hair
dressing and the old fashion of feathers sur.
mounting O triple bow of hair, a jewelled com.
and o line of jewels dropping on the forehead.
The hair in those days was fastened Town tho
middle and around the head from ear to ear.
and twisted into o funny little coil at the back,
or arranged in hoops, with short curls falling a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23

The craze for Victorian souvenirs extends to
the gloves and purses in London. Gloves have
buttons with the Queens portrait on their sur
face. and pocketbooks arc ornamented with the
rose, shamrock, and thistle.