The daily morning journal and courier., 1897-12-22

in his ears, and wore three mems liv- ings in the shape of a seal ring on his thumb" His hair "he had knit up in silken strings with twenty odd-conceit- ed true-loVe knots" "The spruce silk en-faced courtier" fastened his mis- tress favor-a little three or four inch square laced-edged handkerohief-with fair jewel in his beaver felt, and would stand every morning two or three hours learning how to look by his glass, how to speak by his glass, how to court his mistress by his glass;" He was "a mincing marmoset made all of clothes and face . one who dares not smile beyond point for fear to , unstarch his look; that hath travelled to make legs" and who would "lie ten nights awake, carving the fashion of new doublet." The barber's ingenuity, like the tailors, ran mad in the inVen- tion of fashions for wearing the beard. They were worn twisted like rope, hammer cut, spade or fork cut circular or pointed stilletto fashion:
 That nights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round
 | And rules geometrical in boards are | found.
 Still more were women subjected to scathing satire and abuse on the dress ing of the hair and the tiring of the head. Lyly in "Mydas" G p says of ] the head "purtenances:"
 It is impossible to reckon them up, much Jesse to tell the nature of them. | Hoods, frontlets, wires, caules, curling irons, perriwigs, bodlins, f1llets, hair faces, ribbons, roles, knot-strings, | glasses, combs, caps, hats, coifes, ker- chers, clothes, earerings, borders, crip- | pins shadowes, spots, and so many oth- 1 CT trifies as both I want the words of arte to name them. time to utter them. and wit to remember them; these be 1 but a few notes.
 1 Mems hats were made of silk, wool. velvet, taffeta or of fine hair. They were highly wrought and bound with gorgeous bands of gold or silver work or twisted silk, and mounted with l feathers, fastened with jewels or crystal | buttons. A hat of Henry VIII. was of 1 green embroidered velvet, ornamented with silk lace and lined with green sar- | cenet. In 1571 statute was enacted | commanding all persons above the age | Of six yearS-except the nobility and gentry-to wear woolen caps of home production on Sabbath and holy days and it was strictly enfarced among the l citizens, mechanics and laborers, "or 1 the forfeiture of three shillings and | four pence for every day so neglected l to be worn" This was done to secure 8 monopoly of the woolen manufactures ] against felt on an appeal to Parliament | by the knit-capmakers of England. Feathers of the rarest and most ex- pensive kind were used on the heads of | both sexes and also as horses plumes, though not to the same extent as earlier in the century. In an inventory of the wardrobe of Henry VIII. are
 l "plumes of feathers for helmets, of white ostrich feathers richly garnished l with passemayne. and frnges of Ven | ice gold, and gold spangles intermixed with small copper ones, and either of the plumes having toppet of heron's feathers: large plumes of feathers for horses, of all colours chiefly heron's ] feathers, garnished with spangles and toppets.''
 I The most conspicuous article of ap- parel of both sexes at this period was the ruff, which was worn round the neck and the cuffs of the sleeves. 1 When low and small they were gene rally becoming; but when high, fan or wheel shaped, they were justly the sub ject of satire and ridicue Neither law, satire nor censure could control the ruff; it expanded with every breeze of scorn, and spread its wings with every
 blast of sarcasm for many years after
 Elizabeth's reign. Mrs. Turner, who
 was the inventor of the yellow starch 1 so largely used in the dressing of ruffs, rabatos and collars of all kinds, was ex- ecuted for the murder of Sir Thomas
 Overbury at Tyburn in 1915, wearing a
 "cobweb lawn ruff of that color" It
 was expected that the ruff would then
 receive it's funeral:" but five years af- | terWard we find the dean of Westmins- ter giving orders that no one of either
 sex wearing ruffs should be permitted
 to enter any pew in his church, but, finding he had displeased the king, he | withdrew the order and apologized for
 the mistake" The fashion died soon l afterward, however, but the recently
 introduced Medici collar may perhaps | be the sign of it's resurrection. The | gowns were equally magnificent and costly for both sexes, and were made of
 
 or forty shillings a yard. They were
 richly embroidered, overlaid with fine l lace or guarded with broad strips of
 velvet fringed with lace. The sleeves
 were variously worn some long, cast
 over the shoulders and tracing the | ground, or short and divided and tied
 with true-love knots. Strutt quotes the following description from an inventory , following description from an inventor ry of Henry WILLS wardrobe:
 A gowne with 8 square cape of crim- 1 son veIlat and crimson satten, all over embraudered with pirles of damaske,
 golde, and silver; having a riche bor- der and gaurde of crimson vellat, em- 1 broudered with damaske, golde and
 perles, faced with crimson satten, also alover embraudered with the same damaske, golde and perles, with like
 border cut the length of the said fac ing; being upon the sleeves of the same gowne twenty-six diamonds set in but tons of gOlde the same gOWne is lined