The herald., 1897-03-14
She Promises to Be as Charm.
ing as Gentle Spring
BLO0MERs WITH SKIRT ONLY
Do 10 Date Tailor Made Bodices Are
Braided
New and Smart Spring Coats Appssr-cash-
mere Gowns Are to BE Very Popular.
WooIen Yields to SILK


not only In our minds eye, but In the
face of the eyes we have about us. NOW
that It has come to pass that everybody
rides a wheel. we must think JUST az
much about what we are going 10 wear
when out for a spin as when we go TOT
n drive or to the theater or TO walk OF
any other place. Let us confess, tneh,
and say that we are thinking about what
we are going to wear all the time. Thai
,s the woman of 1t. Just so we are think
ing about bicycle costumes. Are we
going to wear Just what we DID iast
year or not? To wear or not to wear
that Is the question.
1t Is an unquestioned fact. and there
is no use trying to deny 1t, that bloom
ers are never seen in this country OIL
smartly dressed women. Indeed, So
ciety Of various degrees considers them
bad form. Why, even In Paris they are
beginning to taboo them and are adopt
ing the short skirt. oh. yes. They are
really superior to tights, and most OF
us think who wear them in that way
that they are better than knickerbock-
ers. There are more designs for bicycle
costumes than would fill the biggest
box that anybody ever thought Of. The
best way to express the idea Is to say
that there have been just as many i'm
provements in bicycle costumes for wo-
men as there have been in the wheels
themselves.
1t has been the lot of a chosen few
to take a peep at what will be consid-
cred the smart bicycle costume for
1897 spring and summer. One of the
smartest of these styles Is an almost
circular skirt which fits tightly at the
hip and the stomach. Let the slight
rider remember that In this costume
there should be no fullness whatever
not even at the back For the stout
woman, however, 1t Is different. She
should have two side plaits and these
should be laid in a box plait under
meath. In this instance the fullness
begins just below the hips. and thus
there is around the hem of the skirt
all the width required and enough flare
to stand out well. If 1t Is three and
half yards wide that will be plenty. AS
excellent a cloth as can be found for this
purpose is the heavy double-faced tex
tile of the sort which has been popular
for golf capes. The chief beauty OF
these is that they do not require a lin
ing, but it must be admitted that some
of the tailors put on as a facing
straight band of the same material
Others have facing of a circular band
cut In one piece. This is fitted with alb
solute precision about the bottom of the
skirt i 4 {. -
As to the arrangement of the front,
there is ample opportunity for variety.
The opening Is naturally on either side
of the front breadth. This is narrow
at the top, f1aring at the foot, or almost
the same size all the way down. This
is when the skirt Is cut circular. The
waists to some of the bicycle costumes
are made along in the line Of the rid
ing habit coat. The basque extends
slightly below the waist. The sleeves
are small The waists open at the
throat with narrow revers, these latter
to show the mannish style of neckwear
60 much cultivated by the bicycle girl.
The skirt may be, with this costume.
whatever the rider desires. A very
pretty costume Is skirt of plaid and
q waist OF dark plain cloth. The hat
which goes with this costume should
be made of material similar to the skirt.
or alpine hat, heavily stitched. Che
vlot and covert cloths are popular, and
the colorings from which to choose are
almost innumerable.
The latest things in tailor built dresses
are by far the most suitable for wear in
to bicycle costumes, but to those gowns
with which we strive to make ourselves
beautiful at times other than those
which find us awheel. 1t is very notice.
able that braiding. which came into
vogue so strongly last year is equally
favorite this season, or rather prom
1seS to be for the coming season. Many
of the newest things are deliberately or
namented after this fashion. To the
possessor of good figure braided cos
tune is exceedingly becoming and it
gives skillful tailor every opportunity
to emphasize the points of excellence
and slur over those which are less desir-
able.
One of the newest ideas Is to have the
backs of tailor-built bodices braided.
They must fit the figure tightly and the
front should be loose from the bust to
slightly below the waist. The particu-
lar advantage of this costume lies in the
fact that 1t is equally becoming to the
woman who is tall and her compeer who
is short. One Of these costumes pre-
pared by celebrated ladies' tailor Is
. dark blue gray rough surface tweed
fecked with orange and having pretty
twill in 1t. The skirt is perfectly cut,
fitting tightly over the hips and with
fnlitess at the hem, though absolutely
neat and tidy In front and at either side.
This IL contrived by means of two
further new fdea is exemplined by
three rows Of fancy braiding around the
top Of the skirt at intervals below the
waist. The design Is quite fiat and the
effect becoming to the figure. The back
Of the bodice, which flts perfectly, is
braided In similar lines, the last form
ing q sirdle at the waist. In front there
II z shaped flap. also braided and lined
with pale blue silk, which falls loosely
but not with any fullness to the waist
or Z couple Of inches below It, The col
lar IL braided and 50 are the cuffs,
The same idea Ii being carried out In
smart little spring coats In various ways.
One Of these Is of BLACK velvet, the
back wrought with lines OF Jet, and tho
sleeves to correspond. The loose front,
which In this case IL q little full, Is OF
white mirior moire embroidered with
Jet and silver The toseves are finished
with narrow turned back cuffs Of white
mifior moire, similarly embroidered.
and under the rolled back collar Of vel
vet, faced with moire and finished to
correspond, there IL carelessly knotted
handkerchief In a bright red and gold
Paisley design. which gives a charming
and coQuettish touch Of color to the
whole.
And now we are going back to the old
style Of hair dressing. The fervor tho
professional hair dresser has developed
Tor the antique is simply amasing and
there is every probability that the same
adjective applies to the coifKures thet
are likely 70 result. We are In fact q
hava 4 VfotArinn qfviA of hair dreaalnfr