The record-union., 1897-02-14

heading for -pleated frills.
These ruches are in chicoree and fam
pleated styles, and are put on the skirt
in marrow widths, or one larger ruche
goes round the hem in crescendo or
diminuendo fashion, to suit the shape
! and style of the train or the particular
fancy of the wearer. Some of the full
rose ruches have a tiny cluster of vio-
lets or half-open buds on the center of
each pleated rose formed of the silk,
tulle, chiffon or other textile.
Some of the spring jacket bodices
worn en- suite with street costumes will
be slightly longer than the bobbed
style now prevalent. Other separate
coats to wear with any gown Will be
made variously of gray or tan Melton,
and even cream-white cloth, the very
dressy sorts elaborately trimmed with
brown or green velvet overlaid with
design in bronze and jet beads and
Spangles in tricolorS. A stylish model
in Russian green cloth is made in En-
pire fashion, the fronts finished with
bands of very elegant Lyons velvet OF
deeper shade made to simulate loose
box -pleats from shoulder to hem, on
each side of the garment. Just in front
is inserted a deep square of cream sat
in, framed with pointed reverS This
satin is almost hidden by an embroid-
cry of green, gold and blue sequins,
beads and spangles. The Medici collar
is of velvet.
Crossed bodices or surplice effects pre-
vail very largely on both day gowns
creations of French genius. Not few
of the corsages for young women and
slender rnatronS are laced up the back;
the front portion, whether high or low
in the neck. draped from side to side,
two different materials often being
used for the surplus folds, like spangled
tulle and velvet on a satin brocaded
gown, or moire and embroidered chiffon
draping a lustrous corded silk or Lyons
satin Added to these folded decora-
tons are rosettes of satin ribbon, jew
eled pins and buckles and jabots of
rich lace.
Before the Lenten season, when
gaiety of every description is at high
tide, and richness and variety in
gowning is such a positive necessity to
the fashionable woman, the artistic
fancies Of fashion are presented with
greatest effect. At receptions at the
opera and theater, ETC., one has beheld
this season all the original colors of
JoSeph's coat and the rainbow united,
with an additional score of modern
novel variations. A general view of all
this magnificence and originality is a
study indeed, and, generally speaking,
the gowning has been most charming
the dresses, fancy bodices, short jack
cts and dress Wraps-but the hats have
proved indeed triumphs of matter over
mind. Head coverings this winter have
been offered for sale at the most ex-
elusive houses, and worn by women Of
hitherto irreproachable taste that
would seemingly be donned by none
but people hereft of their senses. 1t is
to be hoped that even the notable
Easter hat viii be an artistic improve
ment upon those elected for this win
| ter.
A handsome Doucet model that will
| be worn in Washington during the in
| formed princess back. The dress is
made of pinksh gray MORE, the front
cut off at the waist line by the addition
| of alternate stripes of moire ribbon
and fur laid over Venetian lace. The
immense Queen Bess collar is one mass
of scintillating jewel beads, with a
| pleating of the beautiful lace inside
The close sleeves are very long, reach
| ing half over the hand, with lace frills
| as a finish to the pointed portion that
| is covered with the jewel garniture.
! The skirt is untrimmed, but the entire
! gown is lined throughout with pink
| and opal gray shot taffeta silk.
| The class of gowns which are most
needed in the very early spring is the
simple tailor-made type-jacket and
skirt. The very plainest models are the
best, the coat neither tight-fitting nor
at all loose-just easy, but without a
wrinkle. and cut either double
| breasted, turned awry slightly at the
throat to show the linen collar or the
| fancy stock Of the bodice beneath, or
| else open-fronted over a narrow waist
| coat This, with a silk-lined, perfectly
| hanging skirt, is all that can be de-
| sired, and a good sum of money ex-
pended on a first-class quality of ma
| terial, a silk lining that is now not an
extravaganza. is far and away a bet
| ter choice than to fritter twice this
amount away in haphazard purchases
| which in the end bring no such result
/ for the money as the first seemingly
! expensive gown. No other sort of cos
| tune looks at once So neat, sensible,
and it by no means lacks style. Most
women provide themselves with one or
two smart silk or fancy satin blouses
to wear with the skirt indoors, but 1t is
far better If possible TO keep a walking
dress exclusively for that purpose On
the sample cards is new shade in
gray that suggests mauve, and this in
| tweed or cloth will make very becom-
| ing and stylish spring costume.
The Sleeping Disease.