The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-06-19
Ideas for TWo1uem.


est, but thatAfashion has paid SO much
attention to the throat recently that all
styles have been devised for the choos-
ing.
The day Saas passed when q woman's
decision was between a ribbon band or
a stin collaA Now tufts and rufs and
buckles, and collars Of many kinds and
cut occupy ones attention when the
making of a bodice is in process.
The great rufus are always becoming to
the woman with the thin face. On thing
this woman, however, would do well to
Dear in mind, that too great punching
at the throat serves to make the face
thinner by contrast, as too fluffy a coiff-
ure will.
For shirt waists, even the strict collar
with its narrow tie has given way to the
small turnover that allows the broad
bright colored ribbon to wind about it
twice, before being tied in a fiaring. four
ln-hand in ront. Every one knows that
bows in the back are out, but the bows
In front have grown more elaborate
than ever. Bright plaid ribbon make
the prettiest and can be worn with any
gown.
As if in very defiance of the elaborate
collaring that can be worn. some of the
most modish shirt waists of silk and rib
bons have plain white linen collars.
Nirot sent over a new collar this sea-
son that is quite fetching. 1t is a full
stock and shaped high at the ears. These
high pieces can be turned over or pulled
up.
Collars of ribbon are very fashionable.
They are wound about the neck twice
and tied in a f~eur-in-hand in 'front.'. The
edges are ruffled with lace and the ends
are allowed to fall to the waist.
The pleatings that are worn inside the
high collars are not so wide as formerly.
The rnhar effect is all very well for
women who can wear these striking
things, but all women canno take such
changes. The usual ruff is confined in
width to an inch. probably rising to two
inches in the very middle of the back
One new point about these ruches is
that they must not be allowed to hang
over the collar, but should stand upright.
PIeated chiffon is too limp if left to
itself, so another pIeating of taffeta rib
bon. or the silk itself, is put on the out
side to hold it up.
A snort WlAe ago inUSl VI Tue tfitu-
ming. even the pleating, at the back of
the neck, was Allowed to go downwards
and spread out we'll between the Shout
ders. But the higher and straighter the
collar the better, now, while all the trim
ming stands against the back of the hair.
Every one is wondering whether the
Bernhard bows will return again. They
are being seen here and there on the
--.-x1-& Froolrr ao5 urnap O uaunan has
the chin for them, they are very becom-
ing. But they are exceedingly ugly, un-
less they are very fun. A skinny" af-
fair is quite awkward. A pretty one is
made of white silk muslin, wrapped twice
about a stiff stock collar, then tied in a
narrow bow just under the chin, with
long streameFs to h waist.
These streamerss like sashes, are fin
ished with a deep frin of lace. An air
is given to many by the wearing of a
large medallion, miniature or cameo pin
in the centre of the bow.
Chiffon twisted twice about a colored
satin collar is another modish idea. The
stiff collar Is made of silk, with a high
quilting of ribbon about it. Around this
is wrapped white OF a contrasting color
of chiffon, sometimes simply knotted at
the side.
Old-fashioned stiff, white ruching is
high in favor. And it is a very pretty
setting against a plump throat.
In imagining an English cottage gar
den, says "Harper's Bazaar an Ameri-
can must begin by utterly abandoning all
pictures of trinity divided plots, and of
those Intervals of earth between the
lowers which a lady of my acquaintance
at home tried SO vainly to extinguish in
her beautiful domain that she finally
abandoned the garden itself in despair.
Here around the cottage there are trim
ness and well ordered earth intervals in
the vegetable garden. but the flowers
grow less in beds than in blazing masses,
crowding upon one another in every nook
corner, and filing every bit of their
allotted space; gazing in at the windows
of the house also, and eagerly presenting
themselves to you when you open the
house door in the morning, like excluded
kittens or dogs anxious for a breakfast
Far up the porch there grows a climb
ing rose" as in Tennyson's Gardeners
Daughter; beyond the rose are tossing
clusters of lilac and laurel, and behind
that a tree of pink hawthorn, just coming
into bloom. In the tangled beds and bor-
d~ers-tangled. that Is, by the flowers
themselves, never by weeds or grass
there grows a mass of blue hyacinths,
crimson tulips, yellow zinnias and noun
tain fringe, white narcissi, blue and white
"old mems bears" mammoth bachelors
buttons, pansies, forget-me-nots, wall
flowers, stock gillyfiowers. and a host be-
sides. Flights of rough stone steps lead
downward. hedged by little rockeries with
various ferns. and above these rise rough
and even crunbling walls, covered dense
~ with ivies of different species, includ-
ing the little blossoming vine known in
American as coliseum ivy" and here
growing wild. In the middle there is a
lawn. set closely with the little English
daisies, and with buttercups larger than
Ours. Behind the walls and beyond the
irregular ~neighboring enclosures rise steep
wooded hills; for this is Jean Inge-
low would call " a cottage in a chine
that is, asrapine which is connected with
the world only by d flowing brook, and
by one OF those perfect and Immaculate
English roads which are the wonder and
despair of every travelling American, SO
hard and smooth is their surface.
The woods and hedges n all the slopes
are more crowded with wild lower than
any corresponding region in America, un-