The age-herald., 1897-09-26

low, in place of the fam.liar "As you are now, so once was l." in any of its nu- merous variations 'tahsre stands the thrilling poem:
 IA cannon ball upcm this spot,
 Withour design at all,
 From Charles. guns colided with
 Another cannon ball.
 Yes, Heidelberg castel is to be visited and revisited Let. no one who is to travel in Germany omit,it because it lies m the bea.en track, nor thtnk that he can soon exhaust its attractions. But above all, O traveller, take time for the visit, and not be "rushed,' at this place.
 Let the visitor then say long enough to see the mountains under the setting sun, To explore all the delights of the rocks, terrace, courtyards. park, gar den and forest; nor should one fail to take the long walk to the top of the mountain which rises behind the castle. A maze of brown-ca rpeted pal hs go zig zaSing up the steep ialclhne through an unviolated fo7ests with it's messy rocks anu ferns. At the time I was there the woods contained qIanJ.ities of lilies of the valley, the best lowed off all the wild flowers. Just before reaching the sum- unit the path goes through the densest fir forest aginable. The deep gloom of 1ls interior is barely lighted by a, sort of phosphorescent sGl,mmer which st.a. g through the matted branches of the trees and people who walk through these mur- ky shades take on the color of figures in paintings of the new Munich school That is to say. they look Nike they had been immersed in a bath of greenish- black copying ink The city of Heidel- berg is not par;fcularly alluring: It Is stretched out in one fntermanab1e street. Chiefly given up to. shops destined to attract the foreign visLor with wares of questionable value. The American trav- eler is espted in the distance.
 Bishops and Their Seas
 Heidelberg also possesses one of the most tiresonfely formal English churches on earth-ia fact which record with sadness for am devoted to the English service, and attend 1t on all possible oc- caSfons with much cdificaItion, though I ann at times sorely tried by the fondnecs which the English clergy have of im- posing tlhs1r system upon national condi- ttons; speaking blandfy, for instance, of '7lhe bishop of New York; fin exaspanat- ing unconcern of the fact that the bishop of any American state is an anomaly un- der our constitution. Tn St. PauPs ca- thedral London, was given a program on which The Rt Rev. the Lord Bish- op of Cairo, U. $. A." figured as a pat ron of an association for promoting Gre gorian chants Such assump tions may be encouraging to "fthe study and prac- tJce of plain song" but they are very discouraging to tle spirits of a plain American citizen. Across the river are inviting walks With a direct View Of the castle and all it's surroundings. The Philosophers Walk" lies at quite height above the river. and Is a favorJie place of exercise for the Heidelberg pro- fesSors. The gneat Helmholtz said that the germ of most of his epoch-ma king discoveries fell into his mind while walk ing along this shady path. He also said that never did a cren tive theory come to him while he was under the least ef- feet of alcoholic strnulants. If this be campaign material for the prohibition ists let them make the most of it.
 It was with genuine reluctance that I took up nay knapsack for the last stage of the Ncckar "trip, but ''life is series of move cons" as an agreed ble American girl in Heidelberg apothegmatically put it. It is within the limits of the city it. self that the rivsr leaves the. high walls of hills which have guarded 1t fhrough- oup it's long course, and emerges sudden- ly upon the broad, level plain of the Rhine,- through which 1t peacefully me- andeas before entering that stream. The great mountain gateway through which 1t passes stands up in such contrast to the extremely fiat prairie that 1t kould not be more striking if Tt had been anti- fe,ally built as tl,s en,a1nce to the valley