The record-union., 1897-02-28

~ NJ 2fS
Centuries, girdles, folded empire belts
and all the short bolero, Figaro, Eton
and Russian jackets will maintain their
hold on public favor. There is indeed
no diminution whatever in the excep-
tional popularity of these items in new
spring gowns. Sleeves are now made
tight fitting from wrist~to armhole,
double butterfly epauleAts giving the
fashionable fullness to the top of the
arm. This arrangement is more novel
and ornate than the simple little puff
or frill which is another means of CIV
ing width to the shoulders, and is far
more becoming to the figure than the
threatened close coat sleeve that out
lines the arm from shoulder to wrist in
severe, unpicturesque, uncompromising 8
fashion. Fer notwithstanding all that
has been said in condemnation of the
separate fancy waist and Of bodices of
various sorts distinct from the skirts
they accompany, the fashion maintains,
and there now seems MO likelihood at
all that these pretty, dressy, most use
full and economical adjuncts to the toi-
let will be reIegated to the limbo de-
scribed as questionable. the name Of
The new fresh and exquisite materials
which compose them render them al
most novelties, and There are so many
unique and beautiful effects among
them in the way of overjackets, new
styles in sleeves, girdles, collars, etc,
that they attract the eye at once. Many
of the best modistes We're extreme
ly opposed to them on the ground that
they hurt their trade, for the reason
that women ordered four and five fancy
waists to one rich black skirt or entire
costume; but they have at last accepted
the inevitable and now charge almost
as much for an ornate waist as for an
out-and-out toilet of a single fabric.
At the importers are shown bewilder-
ing variety of ready-made waists at
most reasonable prices in some in
stances, in others most excessive, yet
not so to those who are able and will
ing to pay generously for model from
French hands that has not its dupli-
cate in the next box opened, or indeed
in any other waist imported. Among
simpler styles are those composed OF
alternate rows of velvet or moire rib
bon, lace insertion and lace edging to
match, with short sleeves and waist
bands en- suite. They are intended to
be worn over slip bodices of silk in
varied tints and with different skirts.
They are cut high or low according to
fancy. Bolero Jackets to wear with
lace, chiffon or fancy net waists are
supplied in endless variety; emerald,
dahlia. nasturtium red and black in
velvets are favored for these jackets,
but, of course, the selection made de-
pends altogether on the color of the
gown with which the bolero will be
worn.
At the opera, at receptions and similar
fashionable functions, the hair is being
dressed quite on the top Of the head
the pompadour style being greatly af
fected, and various arrangements of soft
loops, wavy braids and S-shaped coils
held by glittering jewel-set pins and
combs. This fashion gives length to the
neck, and increases in appearance the
stature of the wearer. There is a de-
cided charm about the coiffures above
alluded to upon many youthful heads,
especially when the wearer is young and
pquantly pretty and is gowned in any
one of the historical toilets with which
1dSAllOAl NOW 8lfdrNSS IiCIdA anu
tractive her countless votaries.
Trimmed skirts will be very much in
evidence among forthcoming gowns
both for day and evening wear. but not
to the exclusion of the plain, elegant,
undecorated models so long favored, and
still preferred by many of fashions
leaders.
The possession of half a dozen pretty
slip waists OF net. chiffon, fancy taffeta
silk, or satin affords TIE wearer any
number of beautiful changes of the
toilet at comparatively small expepse-
as twelve yards of black satin or MORE
viii make the effective background for
all of these various changes. this num-
Der Of yards being all that is required
for a gracefully gored skirt bolero
Jacket or a deep or narrow girdle. as
best suits the wearer.
Black and white continue popular
and when worn should prevail consist
emily throughout the costume. except
that some color may be introduced in
the bonnet or hat. pale pink being
happy addition. Black silk or satin
trimmed with black velvet faced with
white silk vest of white silk. chiffon
or lace, makes a dress suitable for al
most any occasion except shopping or
travelling and for almost any person
except a young girl.
Many persons still cling TO the I'M
trimmed skirt, but There is a growing
tendency toward putting something on
The skirt, indeed in some cases, toward
putting a good deal on the skirt
Black gowns gain in favor for even
Ing wear, and one can hardly lavish too
much Jet garuftIre upon them, esgse-
clally on the bodice and sleeves. Ac-
cordion-pleated black nloIIsselaine de
sole. silk etamine. net, tulle and other
diaphanous textiles are highly popular.
made up over watered silk and black
crepe de Chine, black taffeta silk trim
med with rows of velvet or jet-a very
old style revived-lare all noted among
the newest evening toilets worn. Black
India crepe over moire is made up with
"a very effective and elegant embroidery
of cut jet and French brilliants laid