The record-union., 1897-09-19

| But very recently mixture of many
opposite colors in gowning was the
J rule. Parisians, from whom we take
our initiative in fashion, are now de-
| claring in favor of harmonies. To
| these the preference has always been
given by very many of our most fash
! ionable American women, they consid-
ering that a woman never looks as we'll
as when attired in one color selected
with a knowledge of her own partic-
ular coloring and style, the gown toned
or shaded so that there is no effect of
monotony.
| Crepe de Chine in the loveliest tints
| imaginable will have high place
among elegant dress textiles for two
| seasons to come. These fabrics, in
soft, beautiful mOnochromes or exquis-
| itely patterned. are beautiful to view,
but, like the crepons of days past, they
are, say the modistes, very difficult to
make up with success, for there is a
| tendency to sag from the lining even
after the utmost care has been observed
in putting the materials together. Soft
| folds, tucks, and light draperies and
| pleatings are the most satisfactory ar
engagements in any sort of crepe dress.
/ and best results follow where the silk
| lining is loose from the crepe above it.
! Nine women out of ten, however, if we
except an accordiOn-pleated gown, pre-
| fer the outside material of a skirt seWed
| in with the seams of the silk lining. The
| surplice or the tucked waist and the
wrinkled sleeve models are very appro-
pirate styles for making up crepe de
! Chine and fabrics of similar description
| for dress occasions. If any reader
possesses a self-colored silk skirt which
is past its best days. it can just now be
made into a very stylish gown by COW
ering it with any of the fancy nets or
| transparent grenadines. If one is slen-
| der, the breadths which are wide need
not be gored, but allowed to fall loose
| ly from belt that also holds the silk
underskirt; or a deep lace fiounce can
| be set on few inches below the hips
The lace can first be gathered at the
| top, then narrow lace insertion is laid
on the gathers-an insertion which ad-
| mits the threading in and out of very
| narrow bebe velvet ribbon, the line
| broken here and there with smart little
knots of the ribbon. Black and white
| skirts lend themselves very nicely to
| this form of renovation, and a crisp
new frill of silk may be added to the
hem of the skirt if desired, and a small
| quantity of silk will suffice Many
dainty bodices are devised to wear with
such skirts, and black and white chif-
| fon, or the reverse, are now obtainable
at small cost. Lace of nearly every
description is cheaper than it has ever
| been, it has become so universally in
| demand. Common laces-we do not
mean by this the countless designs in
delicate and wonderfully beautiful
fancy" lace-but common laces, like
common artificial flowers, furs, and
| iewelry carry with them always the
unmistakabIe stamp of vulgarity There
are certain minor details of dress which
are as important as the finishing
touches to a picture in the sense that
without these both dress and picture
would be incomplete. A trying shade
of color at the throat or a badly made
or arranged bow has very frequently
! spoiled the good effects of an entire
toilet or costume The stores are lit
orally full of very dressy made-up neck
garnitures, and the more desirable are
finished with Venise. Mechlin, or other
rich lace. In the end, it is always bet
ter to purchase real lace, for it is a
| joy forever. 1t is never out of date,
| and should not be Unfortunately cut
to pieces to meet the demands of any
passing fashion. There are really very
few styles of trimming that cannot be
| simulated without cutting the lace into
bits.
Garden party dresses now being worn
| at the various functions going on all
| over the country are worth noting
Gray, trimmed with yellow, softened
with guipure. seems to be a favorite
mixture. A gray kilt-plaited wolfe had
bolero of this kind fastened on to
| the bodice in such fashion that ii
| formed the entire trimming Many
people going backward and forward 10
the several entertainments, whether il
be garden parties or dances, are wear
| ing ilt-plaited crepOn cloaks to match
their dresses. profusely trimmed with
lace.
The most unique thing that fashion
has recently presented to her votaries
is bevitehing Victorian sunbonnet.
| made of shilred tulle. silk muslin. or
very sheer. lace trimmed India null;
this TO be worn as a useful. as we'll as
| highly ornamental. addition to a golf,
| croquet, or tennis costume during the
| autumn season One can imagine how
| charming a young pretty golfer would
look against a green and russell land
seape. with a white duck skirt. a red
golf jacket. and a coquelicot red null
| sunbonnet. with handful of red pop
pies and spray Of white marguerites.
by way of trimming.
A French designer sends out the fol-
| lowing gown: The material is red
checked canvas over silk. there is
plastron IN front and back of accor-
dion-p plated red silk muslin. adorned
with a banner-like bib. which is fas-
tened down the sides with narrow sat
in loops over enameled buttons The
folded silk belt is tied in the back in
J short loops and long ends, which are