Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-16
Shirt Waists and Sash Belts Retain
Their Popularity.
PRINCESS GOWNS ARE In high FAVOR
PopIin Weaves for Dressy Co.'S
TUNES and Odd Skirts.
AN AFTERNO ON TOILET
Copyright. 1897, by S. NJ. Baldwin.)

Copyright 1897. by S. NJ Baldwin)
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
VIENNA, October 5. 1897.
1t is a well-known fact to all that a
fashion or a fad originates in so-called
sWelldom, going from there to the middle
classes, ard finally reaching the masses
when the grand dame has ceased to look
approvingly upon it, OF late. however.
since emancipation mas touched all the fair
sex. from the queen of society down to
the laborer's wife, with it's contagious
sweep. infesting fashions realm even, wo-
men of every class of society have COM
promised upon a garment which combines
elegance with comfort and practibility, id
est-the shirt waist
The summer design remains In idea
though in different materials, and seems
destined To- equal popularity. Light or
dark shades CT silk. satin. velveteen, cor
d~roy, cloth and wooden plaids are used
in the makeup of the shirt waist, and the
trimmings consist of soutache, velvet rib j.
bon. til buttons or tucks and knife-pleat
ed ruffies.
Plain colors in satin make very chic
waists. and tie of the same goods is
feature in the really stylish ones. Many
have studholes in front. and cuffs and linen
collars are usually worn. The blouse open
ing in front the side, the surplus
front and the yoke, tucked. plain, are
ali favorite styles
On the plaid designs the yoke is often cut
or the bias Cloth shirt waists gena--
ally made in the loose, Russian style, while
new corduroy, with silk check upon it,
looks Well in Norfolk or blouse patterns.
So much for the practical womens every
day dress, wherein simplicity reigns SUI
p-ene. For dresSy OF house wear, fashion
p,Irsues other maxims. ana rich and costly
stufs and trimmings are the order of the
day
An Afternoon Toilet.
Our elaborate afternoon toilet verifies
this latter statement, and is sample of
the most refined art of the couturier.
tight and narrow foundation skirt of
electric blue satin is covered by a most
intricate drop skirt. consisting of undulat-
iag rows CT black satin, graduating in
width and alternating with insertions of
gathered black point d'esprit. The lowest
band of satin is considerably wider than
the higher ones. and is covered with a
fcunce of point d'esprit, edged with NOUS
seine de sole.
The gathering of the point d esprit Is hid
de3 by a similar ruche, and each band of
blGck satin is likewise bordered on both
sizes with the same little ruche of black
nousseline-
The waist presents the same character
of garniture as the skirt. except that in
the former the stripes run diagonally. Tie
waist and sleeve Innings of electric blue
SdN!I are llSHt, Dul the uldS OHdl <
forms a pouch at the front, where il is
gathered into a belt of black satin, which
closes at the side under a high bow of
black satin The tight sleeve is entirely
ccvered with wrinkied point d'esprit. The
odd. round epaulette is formed of black
mousseline de sole. gathered into close
rl!ches. and. while revealing the tendency
of the sleeve evolution. still obeys the die
ta:es of fashion, which demand bullying
OF some kind at the shoulders. A narrow
rUche of mousseline also edges the wrist
\ Charming feature and one which Lends
chic and color to the gown, is a rolling
revere of black satin. covered with bands
of shirred cerise red mousseline de sole
each band being edged with fulled narrow
real lace. A bard of cerise velvet finished
at the collar by loop. held by a buckle
of strass, and a jaDot of real lace complete
the graceful Sarniture at the front of the
waist The plain. Understanding collar i.
also Of cerise velvet.
The Poplin Weave.
The poplin weave has been well exploited
In plain and figured effects and has prom