The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-03-29
OVER THE TEACUPS. 5
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Some of the new untrimmed hats of
very openwork straw look far more
like fancy-work baskets than like any
sort of covering or protection for a
woman's head.
Among the new spring goods are
stylish Cathcart cheviots. silk-threaded.
all-wool English tweeds in various
rich color schemes; very pretty ex-
hibit of pin-checked silk and wool
fabrics in beautiful color mixtures,
French and English mOhairs in maaE
new weaves and colorings; rough
finished boucles, soft and silky to the
touch; a special line of Csniche cloths
and another of new stylish color mix
lures in silk and wool Tartans in
blendings never before introduced:
also IA distinct varieties of French and
English lightweight woolens in plain
and fancy effects-all exhibited by
various importers in i the tn city.
Many of the elegant dress toilets of
figured India gauze. tulle. or French
organdie, made UP over taffeta or
watered silk, have the skirt arrangeG
in a crescendo and diminuendO Span-
lsh fiounce that varies from or"-h~fs
to three-quarters of a yard in depth,
Its greatest depth being on each side
OF the skirt The fiounces set on III
very fine shirrings, with a small, full
frill at the too.
There is no limit to the variety of
bodice decoration. but among the lead
ing modes are surplice effects, many
OF the folded corsageS ending in grace
full scarf ends that are finished with
lace and insertion when of delicate
textiles. Smart little jacket bodices
ard boleros are also as popular as if
this was the initial season OF their
vogue.
1t will be acceptable news to MANY
who admire them to hear that the rich.
deep yellow lace straws and other
fancy braids so popular two years ago
are revived among the other more
startling modes for the dress season
following Easter. Trimmed with black
lace and tulle, or velvet ribbon and
rich bisc lace. they are seen at their
best. but milliners have now an ire
pressible craze for color, mixed color
OF the most heterogeneous description.
ana are not at all content with the
eHectlve and elegant simplicity of a
yellow straw, with it's fine contrasting
garniture of black, with a handsome
color-note in the way of a deep damask
rose cluster or a delicate spray of
trailing blooms. Masses of color a
small conservatory of pink, green, red.
blue, bronze, violet, yellow-in close
conjunction, are everyday sights and
though occasionally the crudity devel-
oped is startling, the commingling. as
a rule, is achieved in a manner that.
though IT may surprise, certainly can
not be said to offend good taste as reg
ulated by existing canons with regard
to fashionable millinery.
g g g
It is rarely that fashion remains so
long pleased with one fabric as she has
been with French organdie, but when
one remembers the immense and con-
stantly increasing variety of exquisite
patterns and the very beautiful color
lngs In this particular product of the
loom, its great popularity year after
year is not at all to be wondered at.
There is hardly q textile among sum-
mer fabrics that is as tempting to a
woman as sheer, daintily figured and
tinted French organdies Their silk
Innings, costing very much more than
the gown itself, have in past times
been the great objection to their more
general wear; but now we have so
many pretty and effective duplicates
for taffeta or Surah in the watered per
calines, silk finished surah silks. etc.
dyed IN all the delicate summer tints,
that using these, and with the addition
of simple ribbon garnitures. one of the
most charming and becoming styles for
gowns is thus obtained at a
very small expense. OF course there
are double width silk organizes that
are quite beyond the reach of those
who count their dollars while doing
their shopping, but even if these have
a lustrous surface and are as soft and
sheer as cobweb, the patterns are no
more dainty than the less costly de-
signs; on the contrary, some of the or
CANDIES costing 81 a yard or more are
woven in large, bold devices that do
not at all please the taste of MANY
fashionable women, and then it seems
hardly worth it to pay a large price
for so ephemeral a material
Some of the new French millinery
show very oddly shaped hats formed Of
gilt straw tulle and green, violet. or
brilliant red Milan braid Light. airv =
Lulles will be greatly favored on Easter :
hats as well as for models for the en-
tire summer, and the most suitable
and satisfactory qualities are the tuIle
laces, with applique patterns. which
are well adapted for the effects now
required bv fashion. Odd and very
striking colors are still used on all
fashionable headwear, and flowers, rib
bons, laces, tulle pom-pons and fancy
clasps and slides are heaDed in bewil-
4
creations.
Very rich and beautiful ribbons, in
plain and fancy patterns and colorings,
appear upon some of the richest and
most beautiful Partisan models now
exhibited by leading city houses. The
uses of ribbon this season are mani
'old, and there is hardly a dressy toilet
without some touch of ribbon on the
bodice at least. No matter what shir-
ring, pleating, cording, milIiner's folds,
ace or Dassementerie are used else
where on the gown; gathered girdles.
braces. bow-knOts, plastrous, blouse eff
'ects, bOlero fronts, stripes, ruches in
serted DuffS and bands-all these and
'ar more does ribbon supply. In Paris.
vide oddly plated and pOmpadOur rib
Dons are in great use. White and vio-
ct and white and vivid green plaids
Ire used on silk, liberty satin, organdie
)r challie gowns, in colOrs to match.
One word more respecting ribbons: 1t
5 very fashionable to wear a sash go
ng over one shoulder from the belt.
rhe sash disappears under the folded
but a very large butter
iy box with outstanding loops marks its
The ribbon reappears he
ow the belt, and then falls low on the
skirt under the huge bow The So
allied 'Trilby" bow covers the shoulder
or several inches front and back; and
n many cases. on full-dress evening
oilets, the satin or MORE ribbon falls
n three ends on each side. nearly to
he waist.
Ivory white, cream, butter-colored
md black accordiOn-pleated chiffon or