The herald., 1897-08-22
FeltS Will Not Be So Pop
uIar as Before
BRAND NEW STYLE OF CAPE
BRAIDING IN HEAVY SILK CORD
FOR DRESS GOWNS
Short Fitted Jackets and Blouse Vests
Are to Be Favorites Among
Early Fall Styles

NEW YORK, Aug. 17.-(Special Cor
respondence to The Herald.) l am told
upon the very best of authority that
there will be no ironclad rules for long
time regarding the shape of hats. Inc
stiff felt is no longer ruler. In its place
is the material known as mauchou,
which is really sort of cylinder of felt,
which can be transformed into almost
any shape which the milliner may de-
sire.
And there's the rub-the milliner. She
is responsible for the decadence of the
stiff and authoritative felt pattern or
shape 1t was too much Of one thing,
and if there is anything the milliner
loves it is to be able to stamp her wares
with some of her own individual taste,
which she had very hard work to do with
the stiff felt shape. Undoubtedly there
will be a sort of general uniformity, but
there will be always difference and
with decided distinction.
AS to the colors we are going to wear
on our heads this fall, different shades of
gray or mixture of gray and white will
be largely in evidence. Then there are
harmonies in violet, mixtures of green
and black, gray and other dull tones
frightened up with rose color, and beige
combined with black. Beige usually ap-
pears in the foundation and is extended
less frequently to the trimming For
travelling and morning hats this color
will be used as much as gray. The shape
most fancied for these hats is the soft
Tyrolean, with wide band of gros
grain round the crown which is squeezed
into a deep ridge at the top. A bunch
of Quill feathers or a handsome buckle
may be added by way of decoration, but
these hats will be frequently worn with
out.
The new models are considered smaller
than those in vogue at present, but they
still have decided brims Low crowns
seem to be most in favor, and toques are
slightly smaller than they were last
year. and are almost invariably cooked
up over the left ear. For fabric hats
drawn arrangements obtained by gaug-
ing are better liked than smoothly
stretched material. Velvet will be used
for this purpose, but will share popular
favor with silk, especially plain, glace
and moire taffetas. For puffed toques
and hat crowns silk will also be used as
much as velvet. Fancy woven material,
including lace and net, made up over silk,
will be in demand
In trimmings, velvet plays an i'm
portant part. Velours, miroir, plain and
glace, made up into fringes and puffs,
will be preferred to ribbons for hats of
all shapes, while some fancy velvets
with very small dottings or tiny checked
effects are also seen. Flowers will be
very little used during the coming sea-
son, plumage taking it's place at the
head. Every sort of plumage will be in
great demand, ostrich and gaura taking
the lead for the more expensive trim
mings. Jet will also be very popular,
and black lace will be most extensively
used. This latter is the inevitable re-
suit of the present fancy there is now for
1t as decoration for dresses.
The new capes are longer than hereto
fore, and quite little fuller, the up
standing collar being cut in one with the
garment, the last being a decided inno-
walton. Braiding is used extensively as
decoration for these graceful and be-
coming garments, and has much to rec
ommend it, as it is serviceable suitab BILE
for almost any material, and is capable
of good artistic effects. A very dainty
cape cut in this brand new style was of
a soft indistinct grey, trimmed with
braiding of little darker shade in a
simple but effective pattern, and lined
with rose colored taffeta. No better be-
tween season wrap can be had than one
of these pretty capes.
Another style of braiding is also in
favor for full dress gowns. This is quite
new as far as we are concerned, though
the custom dates back as far as a CEN
tury ago. 1t is braiding in cord made
of silk and somewhat coarse, and will be
much used this coming season for labor
ate evening dresses. Still another kind
of braidng is to be used on the short,
jaunty looking Jackets that will be
much worn for late summer One of
these is made of bright red cloth, closed
half way down the front, and opening
to show the shirt or blouse beneath The
collar is small, but close fitting, and. the
sleeves have only an almost imper-
ceptible fullness at the shoulder 1t
comes down to within a couple of inches
of the waist, and is slashed up on the
side seams. The only trimming is the
narrow gold braiding which borders it
all round, and is carried around the
double row of brass buttons which adorn
the side seams and the cuffs.
We are going to wear spangles again,
both in jet and colors, although the
former will be especially fashionable
jet bands in spangles and colored Jewels
are very effective, and jet edgngs and
passementeries will appear on many
costumes. Steel and jet in com bination
Is one of the new garnitures. and blouse
fronts of black net embroidered in let
and colors Will also be much worn. silk
is to be the material this coming fall.
black heading the list in popular favor.
While black fancy silks are coming
prominently to the front. These latter
Will be in entirely new patterns. the
floral and foliage effects being now con-
sidered little out of date. The com
bination of Jet and steel on these silks
cannot fail to be productive of good re-
suits as far as effect is concerned
The popular styles for early fall cos-
tunes will be the blouse vest with a
basque belted around the waist. and
the short fitted Jacket Among the lat
ter are to be found some open in front
with rounded basques and broad collar
continued in lapels. a Triangular notch
being cut out to divide the two. Others
also open in front, have no lapels. but
curve gently I'm tO finish in u ;rrl, oa,,---