The San Francisco call., 1897-08-22

the ends being brought forward and tied
under the chin.
Chiffon wells are still in favor.
This is to be fall season OF the most
original shapes of hats that we have had
for number of years. In fact, am told
on the best of authority that there is to
be no particular shape to be adhered to.
There will be no ironclad rules to guide
the wearer, and she is at liberty to wear
just " hat she pleases. The stiff felt has
gone out almost entirely. and in its place
has come the fascinating, soft material
known as ''mauchou," which is in reality
a thick cloth that can be shaped into al
most any form that may suit the wearer's
fancy. Undoubtedly there will be a sort
of general uniformity OF shape, as such is
likely to come about of its own accord,
and it may be that certain sections of the
country will adopt styles of certain
shape that will suit them. But it Is safe
to say that there will be no two hats
alike. Each will have character of its
own, and most decided distinction.
As 10 the colors we are going to wear on
our heads this fall, different shades of
gray or mixture of gray and white will
be largely in evidence. Then there are
harmonies in violet, mixtures of green
and black, gray and otner dull tones
frightened up with rose color. and beige
combined with black. Beige usually ap-
pears in the foundation and is extended
les frequently to the trim ming. For
travelling and morning hats this color will
be used as much as gray. The shape most
fancied for these hats is the soft Tyrolean,
with wide band OF gros grain round the
crown which is squeezed into deep ridge
at the top. A bunch of quill feathers
or handsome buckle may be added by
way of decoration. but these hats will be
frequently worn without.
In trimmings velvet plays an important
part. Velours, miroir, plain and glace,
made up into frlnges and puffs, will be
preferred to ribbons for hats of all shapes,
while some fancy veIvets with very small
dottings or tiny checked effects are also
seen. Flowers will be very little used dur
ing the coming season, plumage taking
its place at the head. Every sort of
plumage will be in great demand; ostrich
taking the lead for the more ex-
pensive trimmings. Jet will also be
very popular, and black lace will be most
extensively used. This latter is the in
evitable result CT the present fancy there |
is now for it as decoration for dresses.
The new models are considered smaller
than those in vogue at present. out they |
still have decided prims. Low crowns |
seem 10 be most IN favor. and toques are |
slightly smaller than they were last year, |
and are almost Invariably cooked up over
the left ear. For fabric hats, drawn ar.
rangements, obtained by gauging, are
better liked than smoothly stretched ma
terial. Velvet will e used for this pur-
pose, but will share popular favor with
silk, especially plain, glace and MORE tai
fetas. For puffed toques and hat crowns
silk will also be used as much as velvet
Fancy woven materials, including lace
ana net made up over silk, will be in de-
mand.
The new capes are longer than hereto
fore and quite little fuller, the upstand-
ing collar being cut in one with the gar
ment. the last being decided innovation.
Braiding is used extensively as decoration
for these graceful and becoming garments,
and has much TO recommend il, as it is
serviceabIe. suitable for almost any ma
terial, and is capable of good artistic ef-
fects A very dainty cape cut in this
brand new style was of soft. indistinct
gray, trimmed with traiding of little
darker shade in simple but effective pat
tern and linad with rose -colored taffeta.
No better between-season wrap can be had
than one of these pretty capes.
Another style Of braiding is also in favor
for full-dress gowns. This is quite new as
far as we are concerned. though the Gus
tom dates back as far as q century ago.
1t Is braiding in cord made of silk and