The daily morning journal and courier., 1897-02-17
LAND OF THE PHARA0HS
PROFESSOR D. CIDY EATON'S LEG
 TURF ON EGYPT.

the Streets of Ancient Cairo-Among
 the Tombs of the Pharaohs-Wonders
 Which Excite the Amusement of the
 Traveller.
 The first of the lectures in the Shelf field course was given by Prof. D. Cady Eaton last evening at North Sheffield hall. The lecture, which was on Egypt, Cairo and the Pyramids of Gizeh" was finely illustrated and very interesting It was in part as follows:
 Cairo is the largest city in Africa and next to Constantinople the largest city under the direct or indirect rule of the sultan. Three-quarters of the city towards the east is still Mahom- medan city of the middle ages. Houses built thickly together on narrow twist ing lanes; no paving; no sidewalks; public and private filth; intolerable smells; not sign of modern civiliza- ton. Here and there a large space is occupied by palace or a mosque. Most of the mosques are deserted. As it was the custom of each king of an cient Egypt to build himself pyramid, so the caliphs each built himself a mosque. That is each one. During his life his mosque was the fashionable place of worship. After his death it was deserted for that of the assassin, his successor. The new part of Cairo is to the west, and near the river From the Exbekiyeh place down to the bridge over the Nile are modern hotels, shops, restaurants, fine residences and all the other evidences and requirements of modern civilization. Shephard's hotel near the Exbekiyeh place is from De- cember to April the center of modern life and movement It is crowded full of visitors from all the world over, and is the central point of the commercial, social and political interests which such crowd eXcites. To sit on the piazza of Shephards hotel with some American bey by your side, who has been long enough in the khedive's service to know everybody of note, and to know the
 nationality and the occupation of each passer-by by his dress, is as far more
 entertaining than Barnum's procession of nations, as the real is superior to the show of it.
 That's a Greek. You can tell him by the cut of his fez. Here comes a Turk
 of the old regime, who will not adopt
 modern costume. Here's an Armenian, the only people the Jews fear with the exception of the Scotch. There are no Jews in Armenia or in Scotland. Ob serve the slow, elastic tread of that six footer. He's a berber from the noun tains of west Africa. No prouder men on the earth's surface than the berber. Here comes a string of camels, bearing bales of cotton, followed by buffalo yoked to carts as primitive as in the time of the second Rameses. Here i comes a carriage preceded by runners and bearing ladies from the kedive's harem. And so on and on all the day long and every day.
 Mingled with throngs from over the east and south are German counts, Rus sian princes, Spanish grandees, Portu-
 gese scamps, English dudes and Amer l ican beauties. Last, but by no means | least the omnipresent and ever patient | donkey, infinitely superior to his driver l in intelligence, docility and honesty. He | is by far the most interesting and | the most reliable creature In the whole reach of the Nile valley. He is as far | superior to the donkeys of other ma | tlons as the people of other nations are
 superior to the Egyptians. It is re-
 ported that thirty years ago the Egyp-
 tians were honest hospitable, gentle | 4,,o o.ol,
 erous and cruel, without morals or con-
 science Fortunately they are towards l and can be kept in order by clubbing
 But don't trust yourself alone with a
 number of them for they are robbers
 and murderers. If it were not for the
 armed police stationed at every landing
 place, landing would be impossible
 Residents will tell you that the Egyp- tians are becoming all the while more
 insolent, more tricky, more dangerous | If England were to leave the country
 there would be no safety to life or prop
 erty. The country would relapse into i barbarism.
 "If not on your guard you may be-
 come as fascinated with Arabic archi-
 lecture, so fascinated in imagining the 1 erect edCH dIcu1leCl Iuttiueu Ip pIO-
 duce, and in observing just how far he 1 succeeded so as to forget the object ot
 your journey, which, of course must be | to explore old Egypt, the Egypt ot
 Menes, Cheops and Rameses; the Egypt 1 of the Pharaohs and of the Ptolomies So turn your face away from these at | tractive but unfortunately compara- | lively modern objects and look the py- 1 ramids sternly in the face. To visit 1 Egypt comfortably and securely you
 need by your side, whenever you leave 1 your hotel, a trusty guide, strong of 1 limb, stout of heart, acquainted with ! the country, who can address the ma
 lives in their lingo; who knows wher l and how to cudgel, and who will not permit extortions except for his owr exclusive benefit. If the expense be toe ! great then you, perforce, must attach | yourself to one of Cooks crowds anG expect to have all happiness, comfort l and self-respect crowded out of you
 From Shephards hotel to the bridge | which crosses the Nile is about halt | a. mile. The road on the other side | leads about two miles up the Nile i There begins the causeway leading straight away about four miles to the southwest, till it strikes the platform ot hills which marks the beginning of the 1 desert, and upon which the Pyramids
 are built More than seventy pyramids | are strung along for twenty odd miles 4l,.. 3I,, 4.