The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1897-08-22

material known as maUchou. which IS
really a sort OF felt which can IA trans
formed into almost any shape which the
miiliner may desire.
And there's the rub--the nllliner. Sha
Is responsible fer the decadence Of the stiI
and authoritative felt pattern or shape,
II was too much Of one thing. and IL
there is anything the milliner loves II Is
20 be able 10 stamp her wares with some
OF her own individual taste, which she had
very hard work to do with the stiff felt
shape. Undoubtedly there viii be a SOFT
OF general uniformity, hut there viii be
always difference and with decided
distinction.
As TO the colors we are golng 10 wear
on our heads this fail, different shades OF
gray or mixture OF gray and white
viii be largely in evidence. Then there
are harnonies in violet. mixtures ~
green and black. gray and other dull tones
frightened up with rose color. and beige
combined with black. Beige usually az
pears in the foundation. and IS extended
less frequently 10 the trimming. For
travelling and morning hats this color wlll
be used much as gray. Tho shape
most fancied for these hats is the soft
TSrolean, with wide hand OF gros gram
round the crown which is squeezed into
a deep ridge at the top. A bunch OF gull
feathers or a handsome buckle may 90
added by way OF decoration, but these
hats viii be- frequently worn without
The new models are considered smaller
than those IN vogue at present. bat they
stu have decided hrims. Low crowns seem
10 be most in favor, and toques are slight
ly smaller than they were last year. and
are almost invariably cooked up over the
left ear. For fabric hats drawn arrange
ments obtained by gauging are better liked
than smoothly stretched material. Velvet
will be used Tor this purpose. but viii
-f.z-s
plain, glace and MORE taffetas For pulled
toques and hat crowns silk Viii also DO
used as much as velvet. Fancy woven
materials including lace and net, made up
over silk. will be In demand
In trimmings. velvet plays an important
part. Nalours mIroir. plain and glace.
made up into fringes and puffs viii be pre-
ferred to ribbons for hats OF all shapes.
while fancy veIvets with very small dot
tings or tiny checked effects are also seen.
Flowers viii be very little used during tho
coming season, plUmage taking its place
at the head. Every sort OF plumage will
be In great demand. ostrich and gaura
taking the lead for the more expensive
trimmings. Jet win also be very popular,
and black lace will be most extensively
used This latter Is the inevitable result
OF the present fancy there is now for ii as
a decoration for dresses.
The new capes are longer than hereto
fore, and quite a little fuller the up
standing collar being cut In one with the
garment. the last being decided inuova-
tien. Braiding Is used extensively as
decoration for these graceful and becom-
ing garments, and has much to recon-
mend II, as 1t Is servieeahle. suitable for
almost any material. and is capable OF
good artistic effects. very dainty cape
cut In this brand new style was Of a soft.
indistinct gray. trimmed with braidIng OF
little darker shade, in a simple bur Cf-
fective pattern. and lined with roSe-col-
ored taffeta. No better between season
wrap can be had than one OF these pretty
capes.
Another style Of braidlng Is also in
favor for fun dress gowns. This is quite
new as far as we are concerned. though
the custom dates back as far as "a
century ago. II IS hraiding In cord made
OF silk and somewhat coarse. and Will be
much used this coming season for Ella bOr-
ate evening dresses. Still another kind
OF braiding IS 10 be used on the short
taunty-lookiug Jackets that win be much
worn for late summer. one Of these IL
made Of bright red cloth. closed half way
down the front. and opening 10 show thu
shirt or blouse beneath. The collar Is
small but close ftting and the sleeves
have only an almost irnDerceptible full
ness az the shoulder. II comes down 10
within a couple OF inches Of the waist.
and Is slashed up on the side seams The
only trimming is the narrow gold braid
ing which borders II all round. and is
carried around the double row % brass
buttons which adorn the side seams and
the cuffs.
We are going 70 wear srangies again.
both in Jet and eolors. although the former
viii be especially fashionable. jet hands
IN spangIas and coloreG Jewels are very
effective, and Set passenenferies VIII ap-
pear on many costumes Steel and Jet in
combination 81 orc 81 the new sernitures.
and blouse fronts % net embroidered IN
Set and colors will also be much worn.
SILK is 20 be- the material this corning fan,
black heading the list in popular favor.
whle black fancy silks are coming prom
insntIY 10 the front These latter VIII he
IN entirely new patterns. the floral and
foliage effects being now considered IT.
Tie out Of date. The combination q Jet
and steel on these silks cannot fail 10 he
Productive OF good results as far effect
Is concerned.
The popular styles for early fan cos
TUNES will BE the blouse vest, with a
basque bel,ed around the waist and tho
short fitted Jacket Among the latter are
10 De found some open IN front. with round
cd haEques and broad collar continued IN
iapels. a triangular notch being cut out 20
divide the two Others. also opsn IA front.
have no iapels hat curve gently Up. to fin-
lsh in = high collar.
Many q the newest blouse vests are also
made open in front 80 8s 10 show 81 chem
isette. TIE beIt being fastened over tho
two. An elegant white serge costume IL
thus made IL has frfiled oeeHnisetfe ~
brown taTfsta showing tn front. the belt
being % the same material Straps %
white inohalr braid with pearl buttons AZ
their extrernlfies. trim the skirt basaues
ard fronts o. the blouse and the shaped
spauietteH-
Both ga texture and construction thS
rev fashions are decidedly more b@oorn-
Ing thau FOR some time past. Soft plait-
INKS drspertes ard folds are tire order ~
the day. and the variety 81 material 70
endless The colors atso are mitch nsofs
soft and harmonious. the neutral tints BE-
inz greatly in favor. the brighter ttnss
being merely employed to relieve shat
fnl&nt otherwise ~ dglln@ss q sSsct-
The new yoke skirt vas employed IA
sfr4kinEly aT8ganal way IN a costume nat
saw receafly. Tire body - tbs skirt was
IN ssfver~gray cashmere, sun pEeated. ins
blouse 1.slrazee. with shoulder strar# sd
shaped hasaae hand coming down over tas
woke OF the skirt was % gray velvet etao-
oratefy embroidered Eith steel beads asi
spanEies. Tae yoke - ~ blouse was II
gray x,leased vefvst. ard the sl@sFes were
Of sha cashmere. ard Snail leg-0s-nautson
In share. Ths neskhana and s2isthsn9
4vere 81 aaoke-eolored gray velvet. TIE
entire costume belnT thus % unrsheged
g-sv rNe gIssfeatBg steel % the e.Esoro4d-
e~-y forming the 0nsy bright fnfsrh.