The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-06-27
Fashions OF New York.
The Prevailing Style For Elaborate Skirts
and Bodices.
Special Correspondence of the Globe.

Special Correspondence Of the Globe.
NEW YORK, June 24.-While 1T is
not altogether true that the bodices
make the gowns at this present mo-
ment, they still are potent factors in
the general style, and they are, as a
rule, very much trimmed. Even a
faultless figure Is severely tried in an
entirely untrimmed waist So we find
that the originating powers Of the
designers have been taxed to the ut
most to get up something new. The
Victorian styles are the foremost Just
now, but as fashion has been drifting
that way for some time, one scarcely
notices the point Of difference. These
are mostly in form of deep shoulders,
bretelles and round waists; also the
ruff1eS and ribbons on the skirts Much
cleVerness is exhibited in devising new
ideas as ruff1es and ways Of putting
them on the skirts. One gown had three
narrow gathered ruff1es Of the material,
which was ecru challie, with dark red
figuring. Each ruff1e was bound with
red ribbon and had a heading made Of
the challie twisted into a little rope.
1t was shirred at the top in three rows.
The belt was made Of wide ribbon Of
the same dark red shade, and a twist
Of that and white ribbon was made and
brought up to the bust on the left side.
The round yoke was shirred and had
open spaces at the lower part, where
red ribbon was threaded through. The
dog collar was of the red ribbon. Other
rufffes have round pipings, shell gauf-
fering and reversed plating. This par
ticular style of trimming was in great
vogue some thirty or forty years ago,
and is quite pretty. The goods are cut
bias generally, and both edges are
turned in half an inch and basted.
Narrow plaits all turned to the left
are then seWed in, and then the strip
is turned end for end, and the plaits
are turned still to the left but that
brings twist in the middle and makes
the plaits lie in different directions, and
the effect is really very good.
Fashion finds many things in old
styles worthy of repeating, with var1-
ations,'' as the musicians say There
| was kind of gauffering in vogue, too
| in those Arcadian days, and it is now
| revived and varied and used on many
pretty dresses. The material is usually
d, soft like barege or nuns yelling, and
narrow plaits are laid one beside the
| other. with stitches just half an inch
| long. When these are all in, the ma
| terial is slightly pulled apart, and the
| plaits stand upright in waved lines
| Such gathering was made of blue
yelling and used to trim lovely and
| elegant summer dress of the same ma
| terlal. There was a graduated founce
| Of the same in accordion plating
| around the bottom, headed by the row
| of gauffering, which was about three
| inches wide. Above this there was a
| lace applique design, very rich and in
! ivory shade. The sleeves had four rows
| Of the gauffering and one of lace below
the short puff. The whole front of the
corsage was of the gauffering and in
| SertiOns of the same kind of lace The
| belt and a loose jabOt ruff1e and frills
! at the wrists were all made of ivory
satin ribbon, 1t requires just three
| times the width of the material to
make the gathering; so does accordion
| plating.
Among other of the old things made
new are the pinafore gowns and the
| princess shaped dresses. One famous
house displayed several, and among
| them one of white mOhair sicilienne
| glossy and rich. The skirt was full anG
| had pretty arrangement of brown
| braid in upright lOoped designs. In
| side each loop was another of moss
green chenille. The waist was open
| V shape down the front, and under
! the arms it was cut away so deeply
that the shoulder parts were mere
| straps. The whole of the white had the
trefOil loop in braid around all edges
! and down the front. The under waist,
with it's sleeves, was of fine silk check
in green, brown, pink and white. A
ruff1e of lace finished neck and wrists
and also extended down the opening.
The princess shape gave it an added
grace. Another dainty and elegant