The record-union., 1897-03-21

that is formed into three graduated
flutes kept in expanding shape by La
Pliante' hoops and narrow steels that
come ready made for application. These
offenders are fastened to the skirt by
means of buttons and buttonholes or
tiny buckles and elastic bands. They
are made variously Of silk, mohair, sa-
tine, alpaca, moreen, percaline, or SATIN
faced English twill, and they are in
tended to give certain new flare and
cachet to the back of the fashionable
gowns for spring and summer likewise.
Many of the elegant dress toilets of
figured India gauze, tulle, or French
organdie, made up over taffeta or
watered silk, have the skirt arranged
in a crescendo and diminuendo Spanish
f1ounce that varies from one-half to
three-quarters of a yard in depth, it's
greatest depth being on each side of the
skirt. The fiounces set on in very fine
shirrings, with a small, full frill at the
top.
Bizarre shades in gloves are never
chosen by women Of refinement. WheL
gloves do not match ones dress exact
ly it is safe to carry tan, fawn or gray.
When gloves have been to the cleaners
and come back redolent of benZine and
gasoline, hang them on a line in the
sunshine and air for a day. This will
Danish the odors. White and pale
lemon-colored gloves should be
wrapped in blue tissue paper. White
paper is whitened by a chemical
III irrI@ lit
Very rich and beautiful ribbons, in
plain and fancy patterns and colorings,
appear upon some of the richest and
most beautiful Partisan models now
exhibited by leading city houses. The
uses of ribbon this season are manifold,
and there is hardly a dressy toilet with
out some touch of ribbon on the bodice
at least. No matter what shirring.
cording, milliners' folds, lace or passe-
menterie are used elsewhere on the
gown; gathered girdles, braces, bow
knots, plastrous, blouse effects, bolero
fronts, stripes, ruches, inserted puffs
and bands-all these and far more does
ribbon supply. In Paris, wide oddly
plaided and Pompadour ribbons are in
great use. White and violet and white
and vivid green plaids are used on silk,
liberty satin, organdie or challie gowns
in colors to match. One more word re-
specting ribbons: 1t is very fashionab bic
to wear sash going over one shoulder
from the belt. The sash disappears
under the folded waistband, but very
large butterfly bow with outstanding
loops marks it's Introduction. The rib
hnn ho ho1
falls low on the skirt under the huge
bow. The so-called "Trilby" bow COW
ers the shoulder for several inches
front and back; and in many cases, on
full evening toilets the satin or
MORE ribbon falls in three ends on each
side nearly to the waist.
Some of the new untrimmed hats Of
very openwork straw look far more like
fancywork baskets than like any sort
of covering or protection for a womans
head.
Some of the new French millinery
show very oddly shaped hats formed Of
gilt-straw tulle and green violet or
brilliant red Milan braid. Light, airy
tulles will be greatly favored on Easter
hats as we'll as for models for the en-
tire summer, and the most suitable and
satisfactory qualities are the tulle
laces, with applique patterns, which are
we'll adapted for the effects now re-
quired by fashion. Odd and very strik-
ing colors are still used on all fashion
able headwear, and flowers, ribbons
laces, tulle pom-pons and fancy clasps
and slides are heaped in bewildering
profusion on the latest French crea-
tons.
Red in various tones and semi-tones
will prevail during the entire spring
season among many dress fabrics, fan
cy jackets, trimmings, and in fashiona-
BILE millinery.
1t will be acceptable news to many
who admire them to hear that the rich,
deep yellow lace straws and other fancy
braids so popular two years ago are
revived among the other more start
ling modes for the dress season follow
ing Easter. Trimmed with black lace
and tulle, or velvet ribbon and rich
bisc lace, they are seen at their best,
but milliners have now an irrepressi-
BILE craze for color mixed color of the
most heterogeneous description, and
are not at all content with the effect
i've and elegant simplicity of yellow
straw, with it's fine contrasting garni
ture of black, with handsome color
note in the way of a deep damask rose
cluster or a delicate spray of trailing
blooms. Masses of color-a small con-
servatory of pink, green, red, blue,
bronze, violet, yellow-in close conjunc
ton, are everyday sights, and though
occasionally the crudity developed is
startling, the commingling, as a rule, is
achieved in manner that, though 1t
may surprise, certainly cannot be said
to offend good taste as regulated by ex-
listing canons with regard to fashiona-
bic millinery.
1t iss rarely that fashion remains so
long pleased with one fabric as she
has been with French organdie, but
when one remembers the immense and
constantly increasing variety of ex-
Cuisite patterns and the very beautiful
colorings in this particular product of
tho loom Oroof nop,,lo ~ Nv r+or