The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1897-06-06

The quantity or snow on the ridge was
enormous. and the sun had begun 20 tell
on il. We knew TOO much too attempt 10
approach the upper edge and kept at a
distance OF some twelve feet below Il on
the -Aietsch side. Lower down we dared
Lot go owing 20 the sysepness Of the stone
and the danger Of starting an avalanche
With Meichoir in front IL Is unnecessa ~
10 say that we moved with the greatest
caution; no man is more alive than he 10
the danger arising from sncw corrice.
RE sounded with his axe q, every step
ana We went steadily alonS anxious but
with every reason To believe thar we were
giving the cornice wide berth. Suddenly
came startling cry from Melchoir, at
the same instant | felt myself staggered.
and. Instinctiyely swinging ever SO slightly
10 the right, found myself the next moment
sitting astride on the ridge. With u ihun-
cering roar the cornice on our left for
distance OF some 9a yards went crashing
down TO the depths below sending up
clouds of snow dust which completely con-
ceaied my companions from me- Ii was
only by the absence of all strain on the
rope that | knew. though AT the moment
scarcely realized the fact, that they were
sa fc"
Few there are. probably. among active
mountaineers who have not had expert
ences OF one kind or another with glacial
crevasse. Slowly climbing or descending
steep outer mountain face on the back
OF a glacier. with glacial crevasse zig
Tagging through it at intervals. may he
anything but a pleasant sensation, espeG-
tally TO him who is not adequately pro-
Vided with Alpine rope. axe and hobnails
or creepers as part of his footgear. \ fall
slip. and away YOU are hurried. possibly
TO eternity. Some OF these crevasses are
hundreds of feet in depth. and their YER
zf.t .F
from their lower depths impossible II has
not infreauentiy happened that human
bodies, accidentally precipitated into these
rifts. have been recovered only after inter-
walls OF years, when washed out from the
under surface OF the extremity of a glacier.
The passage of the crevasse by means nf
natural snow or ice bridges constitutes
one or the sources OF chief danger 10 the
mountain climber Weakened by melting
through the suns heat they are n treach-
erous pathway and lead the unwary TO
steps that incline To ultimate destruction.
II is in such crossings that the experience
OF good guides becomes a necessity. and
many an ugly plunge that might other
wise have resulted fatally has been turned
TO an adventure of hardly more than
laughahle proportions. Mr. Edwin Swift
Balch. an experienced American noun
taineer. thus describes the sensation OF n
mild crevasae adventure: '"Tumbling into
crevasse If you are roped is a very small
matter, although the sensation. If YOU fall
completely through. is unique. The most
curious part OF the feeling is the inability
10 put your feet anywhere. the sensation
OF utter helplessness that il gives YOU TO
he kicked around trying To get your foot
onto something. From being on the ice
and snow in the light. YOU suddenly find
yourself in mi-darkness. The dark green
blue ice rises in front of YOU a lot OF very
cold snow falls down the back of your
neck. your hat goes down from YOU and
YOU are half crushed by the rope. until
the people who have not gone in haul you
out by main force and you are landed in
a confused heap on top of the glacier"
There are few except those who have
themselves had the experience. who can
conceive of the extreme rapidity with
which mountain storms originate and dis
charge themselves. From a perfectly clear
sky and surroundings an hour. or even a
mere fraction % ii, will frequently suffice
10 plunge the traveller into darkness and
into a region OF the utmost turmoil.
Angry clouds sweep by in mad turmoil
an icecold wind bites deep into the mar
row. and Woe he to him who is caught on
a dividing crest without shelter or cover
ing 10 properly withstand the force OF
natures arms. A personal experience on
the Grimsel. where from an absolute clear
and tranquil sky, August %. on one side
o. the pass We plunged into the darkness
Of night and a tempest like that of the
ocean on the other has been sufficient 70
convince me of the possibilities that lie in
this direction.
Only through the timely assistance Of a
pair of ST. Bernard dogs. whose kindly
fnnistering prevented that silent sleep
which falls to him who lies deep buried
In snow, was on this occasion a rescue
effected. Yet the possibility OF tho con-
ditions that actually presented themselves
were emphatically pointed out 10 us by
friendly guides: but we presuming on SUI
perior knowledge, discarded. nearly TO the
point OF meeting death. the advice bought
by long years of experience. A lesson thus
taught is apt to be lasting in it's effects.