The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1897-08-28
In and AROUND PARIS.
Seeing the Beauties and Attractions
Of Versailles.

VISIT TO THE NATIONAL sEyREs
PORCELAIN MANDATORY,
Tho Gobeiin Tapestries-A Glance at the
Morgue-An Evening at tho Paris OPP
era House-A Successful Pantomimist
The Arc de Triomphe.
Especial Correspondence of the PREss7
Paris, July 81, 1S97-The evening after
our annoying, yet ludicrous experience
IN the bus, at table d'hote word was
passed among the members of our party,
that carriages would be ready to start
Tor Versailles at nine in the morning -
AS soon as we appeared on the scene, at
the hour named, our eyes fell on one
driver so smiling, and so wonderfully
gotten up, that & and Miss Bruno quick
" secured seats beside him, while W. sat
near. His costume, suit of robins egg
blue cloth, was profusely trimmed with
braid and rows on rows Of silver buttons,
the size of bullets. The jacket, zouave
cut rounded up in the back, and rather
low-crowned broad brimmed hat of black
leather completed one of the most notice
able of liveries, to which tho man 8
weight, of about one hundred and ninety
pounds, added the finishing touch His
good nature was as exceptional as his
clothes, and he proved invaluable as a
guide. The drive was through beautiful
woods. and the rest at St. Cloud made
agreeable variety. Not trace of that old
palace is left, and where now there are
only terraced fower-beds and tree-lined
walks it was difficult to believe that state
ly buildings once stood, the home of
kings and queens. The royal carriages
shown at Great Trianon were clumsy
affairs, resplendent in gold and crimson,
and while Napoleon's coronation equip
age was dazzling, the modern dark blue
one decorated In red and gold and sump-
tuously upholstered, used by the Gar
and Czarina during their late visit to
Paris, was by far the most beautiful
Our visit to Great Trianon, where Napo-
leon and later rulers retired for spac
from cares of state, lost much Of its at
traction because we could not see the Lit
tie Trianon, which was undergoing GER
tain repairs. We have heard over and
over that 1t is every foolish to try to see
everything" but we know that not a
woman lives, who wouldn't rather look
at the thing she couldn't, than anything
else on earth. This disappointment some
what clouded the days brightness and
we felt sombre when the gravelled court
yard utterly barren-save for some start
lingly white statues of noted Frenchmen
and the seemingly low building, of vast
area, Of the Palace of Versailles were in
front of us. But all thought of exterior
vanished when we stood In those mighty
halls, and walked through few of those
looking at eighteen miles of battle pic
turesl 1t was an impossibility even
though they were by the greatest French
painters Of war scenes. The apartments
of Marie Antoinette were opened for us,
and many of her personal belongings
pointed out, but we have been shown such
an unlimited number Of writing desks
and tables, used by that unhappy lady,
that our credulity Is exhausted If the
supply is not. The gardens Of Versailles,
trim and artificial, yet imposing from
their extent, the many fountains made us
long to be there on some fete-day, when
some sort of humanity fills every space,
and music and all forms of entertain
ment, combine to give characteristic
sight of French life. With eyes blinded
I1Sv <lc l>ui1 - Ill l,1
glaces, vistas Of mirrors on both sides APP
parently stretching for miles; with head
swimming from gazing up at pictures,
and down at marbles and bric-a- brac, we
sank into an antique chair for a
moments rest. when, seemingly from
trap door at our feet, Instantly appeared
q gold diverted threescornered- hat official
who politely assisted us to rise, and realiz-
ing that there is no "rest for the weary"
in a palace, we sought the carriage. We
barely succeeded in reaching the National
Sevres Porcelain Mandatory before it
was closed for the day, but it really
proved a better time than earlier, and the
visit was indeed worth the effort it cost,
the guide inducing several workmen to
give exhibitions in moulding. We select
ed some small but unusual specimens of
the beautiful ware, that we had never
seen before, and finally found a young
man able to converse in our favorite Ian,
guage. We enquired infinitely as to price
and packing, and when we supposed all
arrangements were completed our pleas
ure was spoiled by-"But excuse me,
Madame cannot have these, they are not
for sale, they are all being made, new
specimens of our art, for the exhibition
of 1900. If Madame will kindly step into
this room we will show other articles. -
Reluctantly we went, and had exhibited,
as little souvenirs, that we could tuck in
the corners of our trunk, magnificent
blue punch bowl, three feet in diameter.
vases seven feet high, exquisite porcelain
pictures; it lis needless to add that we
made no investment. Perhaps even
greater qualification of our curiosity, was
the forenoon spent in inspecting the
zGobelin Tapestries; these are an exact
reproduction, with needle, woods and silk,
of paintings by the greatest artists; and
the workmen are years completing one
piece of tapestry, SO fine and laborieus
is the work upon it. Carpets of velvety
softness were being made by hand, and
everything manufactured belongs to the
government, the articles being mainly