davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

markable for it's close, fine work than
the size of the beads.
A dress was trimmed with this, and
as feel sure the ladies will not be slow
to recognize the exquisite beauty of this
embroidery, will tell how it was en-
plcyed. The gown was of the new old
directOire green repped silk, almost like
velours for thickness. The bodice was
in the plain gathered French style,
with a belt Of invisible green velvet
fastening, with an upright bow. The
front was open in vest shape, showing
a shirred vest of ivory japanese Grape.
The dog collar was Of the velvet, with
a full ruffie of the embroidered Grape
at the top. There We're revers fronts
made of the Grape in jabot form, to
show the wonder of this fine embroidery
done exactly alike on both sides. Other
ruffies of it were put on the puffs and
at the wrists.
There is a new and very pleasing
trimming now shown Cor handsome
gowns of plain color Indeed, it would
make a plain dress handsome anyhow.
This Is white or very pale tinted
japanese Grape, lightly embroidered in
cOlOrs, with a fine thread of gold fol-
lowing each flower all around like the
gold wire wrought in with the cloisonne
work for which the Japanese are so
famous. One pattern had a convolvulus
vine trailing along it, with tendils and
flowers in their soft natural colors,
though, naturally, much diminished in
size. Another had a conventional green
border, with a row of gold rings scarce
ly larger than pinheads along the edge.
Above was a wreath Of white and pur-
pie flower de-luce, with here and there
a lance shaped leaf. The whole de-
sign was but an inch wide, but every
flower looked as though just plucked,
but as if seen through the wrong end
Of telescope.
Speaking of the embroidered flowers on
this gown reminds me of a very dainty dane
ing frock for a young girl. The whole gown
was Of crepe lisse over white moire, with a
wide girdle sash of white MORE ribbon.
The skirt was plainly hemmed The waist
which was of the baby" style, had a border
Of pale violets around the neck, widening to
a point three inches deep in front. The
short puffed sleeves had narrow lines Of
the violets down the length of the puff and
around the bottom.
The Hungarian braiding is a novelty this
season and is employed on very many
jackets, basGues and coats. There is a new
fancy in that line Of cutaway basque with
a facing sewed with looped braid in semi
military style. This is called the Du Barry
jacket. A full, soft blouse vest of some
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

upon Its favorites. The quiet and demure
hose which hut short time since were pre-
ferred by women of taste have been relegated
to the obseurity of the unused bureau draw
err and their successors are fambOyant as
the costumes with which they will be worn.
In the illustration are pictured a group of
the most interesting patterns, which were
noted among the spring orders just made
ready for a young society in New
York. Nothing more astonishing in the way
of hosiery has been seen in a long time. One
of the most effective was a pattern of dark
stars on a light ground The stocking was
of daintiest white silk. the stars of deep
black. They were designed to be worn with
a chic spring costume of black and white
silk, with which they will accord strikingly.
Another effective design gave a beribboned
effect to the stocking of dark red silk, the
strip of white extending from ankle to top.
A third, which is for wear with a dainty
evening slipper, was a combination Of black
and yellow, in an altogether new design.
Another was especially pretty from being in
alternating shades Of mauve, and fifth new
pattern was what may be called a lightning
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

The people of this country have been
hearing for several months of Ameri-
can suits of clothes made for Maj. Nc
Kinley to wear on Inauguration day.
Now. however, Mrs. Mckinley comes
forward with French gowns, all made
for the same occasion.
Upon these elaborate gowns Chicago
dressmakers have been at work sOr
several months. 1t is said they VIII
cost in the neighborhOod of $4,000,
being the most costly and elaborate
dresses which the wife of any presi-
dent Of the United States has worn.
1t is stated that in the manufacture
of these gowns for Mrs. Mckinley
French ideas are predominant, but
American theories have Influenced the
creations"
The gown to be worn at the inaugu-
ration is especially handsome. The
material is what is known as cloth
of silver. The groundwork is of white
satin heavily woven with silver thread
in a conventionalized lily design.
The train, which is plain, full and
sweeping, measures two yards and
half in length. On the left side it is
open over a panel of seed pearls en-
brOidered on satin.
Beginning at the bottom is a flounce
of Venetian point lace Of a special and
beautiful design, a half yard in width.
which is cascaded narrow at the bot
tom, and gradually WIdens toward the
top, until 1t is extended it's full width
over the hip and out to the back where
It is partly concealed under the full
train. The right side of the skirt is
also slashed open halfway up, and
under that also is an embroidered pet
ticoat of pearls.
The bodice is tight fitting and slight
ly pointed at front and back. The
lower part is Of silver cloth and the
upper and back of pearls. The same
lace that is used in the flounce is fas-
tened at the waist line into a narrow
point and is draped wider toward the
shoulders in a V-shape From there it
spreads out over the sleeves and I'M
der a strap of silver cloth, two inches
at the top and four inches at the
bottom. This strap is also embroidered
in pearls.
The collar is of pearl embroidered
satin. From it is high Medici collar
of the lace wide out and full, to show
the pattern.
Long and fairly tight are the sleeves,
and they are finished at the wrist with
Nandyke effects, embroidered at the
edge, from which they fall from mar
row lace Of the same design as that
on the skirt.
With this gorgeous gown Mrs. Nc
klnley Will wear a number of diamonds
to fasten the lace, the handsomest be-
ing a diamond star and a sunburst
OF unusual brilliancy. She Will also
wear exquisite side combs.
The fan to be carried for this coca
sion is of the small empire shape, of
lace, the same design as that on the
gown, eXquisitely embroidered in
pearls.
The lining Sor this gown is of white
satin, heavy and rich. Around the bot
tom inside are half a dozen ruffies to
give a full effect particularly to the
train.
a gown to be worn by Mrs. Mckinley
at state receptions is of blue and bro
1iCaded velvet. The background is of
blue satin with a changeable effect. On
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

is of unreiieved black. The foundation is of
some delicate diaphanous stuff, and upon
this are placed a succession Of narrow ruff
fes. of the finest black lace, wrought in ex-
quisite designs, and the whole petticOat be-
ing literally light as air. OF course the cor
set cover worn with this matches it exactly.
Flounce after flounce of lace in graduated
widths hang from the low cut neck and droop
over the shoulders. If this combination ap-
pears to the wearer too dreary in hue, it is
lightened by touches of rose or lilac rib
bon, which are used to draw in both waist
and skirt.
OF course lingerie of black lace cannot ex-
tend much further than this, and yet it would
never do to combine white garments with
these outer ones of black. So it is under
stood that black corsets must accompany
them, being preferably of black satin with
embroidery in delicate colors. Then of course
the tiny undervest must be of black silk,
as must also the daintily embroidered stock
ings In short, nothing could be much
blacker or much daintier than the underwear
of the woman who has set out to follow this
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

until seen. Grenadines are so numerous
that no could mention them all in one
letter, but the wire mesh and iron frame
are the best and most durable. There are
gauze grenadines. These are beautiful over
MORE, The escurial grenadines are among
the handsomest, but the thick thread is liable
to catch on anything with pickering dis
astrous results The seeded bareges are very
pretty and odd, but not apt to wear well if
for active persons.
For the spring weddings there are white
silks in semilustrous qualities, satin, faille
ribbed silks in ivory and cream and We
lours in the same shade. For bridesmaids
there is no end to the dainty printed twills
foulards and light midas and taffetas.
bridesmaids dress must be dainty and
delicate and be so arranged that a defined
color scheme can be carried out-one pink
one lilac, one blue, one green, one yellow
ETC., and for that reason the bridesmaids
are to be congratulated this year.
Mate Leroy.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
Fashions Of New York.
IMITATION JEWELS LARGELY USED FOR
DRESS TRIMMINGS.

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Feb. 25.-I have never
seen such really artistic work in the
way of beading and imitation jewels
wrought on dresses as there is now
Some Of it is very costly, as the imita-
lions are so close to the real that it
must take much patient labor to pro-
duce them. L speak most particularly
of the limitations Of rubies, emeralds.
diamonds and pearls, not to mention
turquoises, opals and sappnires. All
these have place among the dress
trimmings now. Besides these there are
the real cut jet and steel. Garnets
are also frequently employed. They are
not counterfeited, but real, as their
price is comparatively small.
Pearls are used with exquisite eff
feet upon the silk nets and lisses. The
all silk Brussels net shows them to the
best advantage, and they are seWed
Singly or in clusters of three or five
or in some cases in designs Of more
or less elabOrateneSS. One lovely pale
pink TOsca net dress for a young girl
was made beautiful by the trimming OF
pearl beads. These were arranged
around the low neck in the shape
of a bertha, with the larger parts
placed so as to fall in front like a
stOmacher and on the shoulders like
a cap over the sleeve. The three larg-
est lozenges had fringe made Of small
er pearls, with larger ones at the ends.
The pearls in the IOzenges and those
forming the upright trimming around
the neck were large and surrounded by
smaller ones. The effect was rich and
tasteful, two things that do not al
ways go together.
There are wide Swiss girdles made
of the large and small pearls, set as
artistically as If they were genuine
and made for royalty. One collar was
made up on wire, which was twisted
into beautiful design, with pearls of
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

different sizes and shapes. The ini-
tatiOn pearls are as lustrOus and, as
lar as appearance goes, quite as hand
some as the genuine. There are two
kinds Of imitation pearls. One is made
OF wax and thin glass, and these break
easily L do not know what the others
are made Of, but they are almost if
not quite as heavy as the true pearls
Ihere was ribbon collar band in one
place of soft, Yelvety dark green.
On this. with it's wings outstretched
was what was fondly supposed to rep
resent butterfly made entirely of
garnets. 1t was about five inches
from tip to tip as the hunters saw.
ana was SO arranged that it came di-
rectly under the chin.
One handsome dress of gray and
green Velours had gathered vest front
OF ivory white silk null The stock
was also of the null, draped. and had
a full bow around the back portion
or It OF white null and green veIvet
ribbon. The front Of the bodice. vest
and all. was nearly covered bv an
elaborate piece Of jeweled passemen-
ter1e, done in Bohemian garnets. The
eHect was most beautiful Another
bodice, where the princess gown was
or black grosgrain silk, had the whole
upper part Of the front of white ciIte
muslin shirred, with two narrow r11f-
fies sewed in. From the arm size there
started a sort of open corseIet made
OF one mass of emeralds and cut Jet.
rms opened down in a graceful slope
to the center of the front. IT is nos
sible to purchase the passementerie all
seWed into it's form for jacket, corselet
or other set trimmings, but the best
dressmakers prefer to buy the long
trimming and arrange it themselves,
as they may in that manner achieve
results entirely different from any
thing else. Beaded and jeweled mas
sementerie has always been considered
handsome, and there is no diminution
in the demand for it. In fact, it is
said that it has never been so much
liked, but that worn now is more re-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
Mrs. MCKiQley's Inauguration Gowqs.

it are raised flowers in velvet of two
shades of old blue.
The design for this gown of the
presidents wife is princess" the
waist being made with plait wide on
the shoulders and narrow on the waist
line. From there 1t extends in a
double box plait into a full spreading
train.
On the bodice point lace follows this
plat. being fastened with two small
cut steel buckles at the bottom of the
waist and back. On the shoulder the
lace is drawn through similar buckles.
Again in front the same effect in
buckles is shown, and at the bottom of
the waist in front is a large cut steel
buckle. From this the lace falls II.
fan-shaped pieces to the skirt.
In front is .petticoat of blue satin
yelled with white mOusseline de sole.
This is embroidered in cut steel and
pearls in special pattern. Edging
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

this petticoat is Venetian point lace
tiounce finished at the top with very
narrow shtrrings Of null.
The same lace Is brought UP each
side of the petticoat to the waist line.
where the full train falls over it. The
front of the bodice is also of mousse
line de sole, embroidered in cut steel
and pearls in smaller design than that
used on the skirt.
The collar is of cut steel and 1t part
ly holds up a separate collar of lace,
which is brought through cut steel
buckles at the back and fastened. The
sleeves are Of velvet, small. slashed
at the top and lined with satin, ana
filled in with embroidered mousseline
de sole.
Some of the point lace also appears
in these slashings and is caught in
with the same kind of cut steel buckles
that are used on the outer part of the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
JeWeled Collars.

The jeweled collars, so fashionable, are
about IL inches in width and form a close
nttlng band about the neck. Some are set
with pearls, some with diamonds and tur
Quolses and some with diamonds alone.
Equally fashionable are several strings Of
pearls graduated and united at intervals by
little diamond set bars.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
Wells Tied Under the Chin.

The veil Is an important adjunct to the
theater toilet, as hats are not correct for
couture is touched only by this flmy affair.
which must be composed of very finely woven
silk Of embroidered chiffon. An inch wide
edge OF real lace adds greatly to its becoming
ness, and the veil should be long enough to
fall loosely over the face and tie beneath the
chin. 1t should be removed before entering
the STALL
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

design carried out In black and green.
In all the cases the stockings are of coursa
OF SILK or the most exquisite texture. and the
embroidery in handwork of the finest char
acter. Eacn DIT OF hosiery is a tiny work Of
art, and the only marvel is that women who
are so fortunate to own such dainty af-
Ialrs can ever bring themselves to injure the
delicate fabrics by wearing them.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

new fad. It's cost Is another matter, and it
will readily be inferred that this striking fad
is one which is not likely to be promiscuous-
ly INDUCED in. set of garments of solid
lace, which in finish and elegance might cas-
lily be mistaken for ball gown, can neither
be obtained nor replaced for q song.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

home. But If he finds the mistress of the
house in and not her husband, he leaves one
Of his cards in the hall after calling. II
both have been seen, he leaves no card, but If
neither was at home two must be left.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
STOCKINGS of STRANGE DESIGN
Those for This Spring Are Very
Stylish.

Spring novelties in fashions include more
striking patterns than voluminous skirts and
pretty slippers have ever before been per-
mitted to conceal from view. Brilliancy of
color and extravaganza of design are the rule
In the stockings which the arbitrary fashion
OF the coming spring will seek to enforce
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
A BETTER Way.

She (who paints)-Do you ever Ere china?
He-No; | usually use bootjack. l find
it goes straighter and is less expensive.-Ex-
change.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28
siIvervare and Art Goods.

jewelers. Circular.
Silver fruit dishes with solid centers and
pierced borders represent a faVOrite style.
Glass tea caddies, deliberately cut, with sill
yer tops, present change in this direction.
Silver wire work forms the latest edition
Of photograph holders.
Among modern table requisites are silver
sardine trays and sardne forks.
Candles and shades and candelabra are in
cluded in dinner table decorations.
Silver toys for collectors are out in new
designs and are notable for fine workman
ship.
Receptacles for cold cream come in cut
glass and are Of low, round form. The COW
ers are ornate affairs in gold or silver.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-28

"Bibsby sold his wheel"
why? Hard up?"
mo; but his wife kept him doing SO many
errands that he never got time to ride. De
troit Free Press.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
REASONS WHY CHAMBERLAIN'S
COLIC, CHOLERA AND DIAR-
RHOEA REMEDY IS THE


1. Because it affords almost instant
relief in case of pain in the stomach,
collie and cholera morbus.
2. Because it is the only remedy
that never fails in the most severe
eases of dysentery and diarrhoea.
g. Because it is the only remedy
that will cure chronic diarrhoea.
4. Because it is the only remedy
that will prevent bilious collie.
s. Because it is the only remedy
that will cure epidemical dysentery.
6. Because it is the only remedy
that can always be depended upon In
cases of cholera infantum.
T. Because it is the most prompt
and reliable medicine in use for bowel
complaints.
s. Because it produces no bad re-
suits.
9. Because it is pleasant and safe
to take.
10. Because it has saved the lives of
more people than any other medicine
in the world.
The 25 and SOC sizes for sale by all
druggists and dealers, Benson, Smith
& Co., agents for Hawaiian Islands.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
Germans Fear the Tariff.

BERLIN, July 10.-The newspapers
are fuu of dismal forebodings IN re-
gard to the new United States 1ai III
The Liberal newspapers, however, for
instance, the National Zeitung, the
Tageblatt, Boorsen Courier and others
warn the Government against entering
forthwith into a tariff war with the
United States, though they have no
doubt the Dingley bill will become d
law substantially as passed by the sen
ate and that German industry, notaply
woolens. will be gravely injured.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
FOR A xAr1oSAL CEMETERY.

Chinese Secure Valuable Property
in philadelphia.
NEW YORK, July 10.-A special 10
the World from philadelphia says: Ar
rangenents have been completed tor d
national burying-ground for Chinese.
For some time past the Celestials in
this country have had agents in several
of the big cities searching for suit
able place where they could lay at rest
the bodies of their countrymen with
the religious observances pract1ceo IN
the Chinese Empire.
On April 5th they were forbidden TO
observe the customary services over
the graves of their departed relatives
and friends. The knowledge that other
nationaIities and creeds had their own
cemeteries and conducted ceremonies
neculiar to their beliefs prompted the
leading Chinese officials in this coun-
try to purchase land for natlonaI
burying-ground, upon which they could
erect a ioss-house and conduct their
own funeral services without interfer-
ence from municipal or cemetery au-
thoritieS.
meeting of the leading Chinese OF
Now York. Philadelphia, Boston, Chi
caeo Baltimore and other cities was
called, and the organization TOOK Cne
title of the National Chinese Syndicate
It is said to control s60,00O,OOO A tract
of land at Wynnewood, about six miles
from Philadelphia, was selected anu
purchased for $545,00O.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
p,oaged TO Miss Hayes.

CLEVELAND, Ohio, July THE en-
ooement of Miss Frances Hayes, only
daughter of the late President hayes
TO Ensign Harry E. Smith, q. 5. n,
rvas announced last evening at Tea
marty at the Hayes mansion IN Ere,
mont Miss Hayes is beautiful ano
talented young lady, while Ensiss
smith is an instructor on the oniteo
States training ship Constellation al
Newport, r. 1.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23

from Terre Haute today, where they
had been for the past two weeks en-
deavoring TO arrange for a settlement
of the coal miners strike by arbltra-
ton. The Commissioners will attend
the meeting at Pittsburg Monday,
when an effort will be made to end the
dispute.
After a thorough canvass of the In
diana field, the Commissioners express
the belief that a settlement hinges on
the initiative of the operators in the
Pittsburg district.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
r,a Presidents vacation.

WASHINGTON, July 9.-Presloeh'
Mckinley will spend most of his sum
mer vacation on the shores OF Lake
Cbamplain. He will leave Washington
on August 1st and go direct to Lake
CbamnIain. Plattsburg, n. Y, Will De
bis nearest town. His party will con-
siet of the members of the Presiden-
tia1 Family of Vice President and Mrs
Hobart Secretary Alger and family.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
VIII Omen Up a District.

SALT LAKE CITY, Utah, July p
IF now seems certain that a railroad
will be built to the Deep Country, west
of this city. President George Q. Can
ron leaves tomorrow morning for Bos-
- +o confer with President Carr, OF
tho oregon Short Line, regarding de-
tolls in the matter. The line Will prop
ahlv start from a point near T1ntlc, on
the oregon Short Line, and run !zo
miIes west. opening up rich mining
oaction in Utah and Nevada
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
The Helena in Commission.

NEW YORK, July 9.-After a delay
Helena, the first of her type, has been
put into commission at the Brooklyn
Navy Yard. AS soon az the vessel is
equipped she will join the ships of the
Northern Atlantic Squadron and re-
main with them until after the sum-
mer drill, when she will go TO the Chi
ma station for service, relieving the old
wooden sidewheeler Monacacy.
The Pacific commercial advertiser., 1897-07-23
Chfna's Big War Indemnity.

Late papers have it that it is report
ed at Tien-tsin that the indemnity in
stallments due Japan need not be paid
when due, as the japanese Govern
NEST prefers allowing it to be held
over, if China pays per cent, instead
OF per cent interest, and that there is
no occasion for repaying the INSTALL
ments on the gold basis. This arrange
ment, it is reported, suits China better.
1t is said that on account of this ar
rangement the loan with the British
syndicate has not been fixed yet.