The record-union., 1897-06-06

new tight-fitting sleeve is unbecoming
to women who have long thin arms,
even when frills, tucks, and other dec
! orations are resorted to to conceal the
defects. Sleeves shirred from wrist
to some inches above the elbow, with
puff on the shoulders and a full lace
collarette shaped with Vandyke points
| to partly cover the puffs, give the ef-
feet of roundness as well as any style
now popular among summer toilets,
and in this manner art is made to over
come natures neglect in a very salts
factory manner Thin women, how
ever. have but little more to regret
in this matter of the great change in
sleeves than their heavier sisters, for
while they deplore the departure of full
puffs and voluminous sleeve effects
generally, very stout women whose
huge arms were covered and concealed
| by these draperies have an equally
good reason to regret the invasion of
the tight, outlining coat model.
Fancy duck costumes in white,
cream, ecru, and blue are made with
a short bolero deliberately trimmed with
insertion or rows of white braid, or else
| a blazer that extends about six inches
below the waist line. The Jacket has
no lining neither has the gored skirt,
which is about four yards wide, mar
row on the front and sides, and full at
the back.
In accepting the sacque coat one has
to acknowledge that there are remark
able differences in the cut and adjust
ing of this loose shape. Some wearers
| of it look bulky, undignifed, and bou-
doirish in the garment others again
appear smart and distinguished. Even
though we may not admire them, yet
they are so fashioned and frequently
worn as to compel this admission at
least. and very much depends on the
carriage, figure, and hight of the wear
| er. These coats appear among tailor
made pique and linen duck costumes
| for next season as well as among many
other suits. A certain arching of the
| shoulder and underarm seams renders
some of the models rather attractive.
But in any or in the best of its guises
| the fashion seems unlikely to last, nor
can one conscientiOusly hope otherwise.
The Powered muslins intended for
dresses, blouses, and Marie Antoinette
fichus are particularly fine in quality
and exquisite in design and coloring.
| Surplice or crossed bodices are very
! desira BILE when transparent materials
are used, and Fashion is for once con-
| sistent and favors this graceful form of
| bodice When the figure is high, the
/ ;e. t.,
| this case. while giving apparent length
| to the waist, the airiness of the mater
| ial does not impart an appearance of
| thickness to it.
Very many of the organdy and flow
cred and dotted muslin dresses have
| plain tinted batiste or lawn for the
| foundation skirt and waist lining in
stead of the taffeta on which they were
formerly mounted. The batiste lining
makes a cooler gown, and more dain-
| ty, if a little less rich looking one, and
| this soft lining can be had in all the
pretty shades of pink. lilac. yollow,
green, or other tints that form the
| backgrounds of figured muslins.
The great majority OF fancy straw
| hats in black and vivid colors are ugly
| in shape with heavy waved brims, and
unbecoming double or eccentric crowns,
and when heaped with all the various
| accessories employed in millinery this
season, they look ridiculous and top
| heavy, and are wholly unfit for hot
weather wear The plainest and pref
/ test styles are the sephyr braids. the
| pliable Neapolitans, the always popu-
| lar Leghorns, and the creamy Panamas
| trimmed with orchids, violets, llacs,
lilies-of-th e-valley. and green tulle;
shaded roses, helitrope. mignonette,
and velvet ribbon; hawthorn sprays,
| maiden hair fern, and cream tulle,
and so on. A hat in black and white
| effects with a touch of color in the
form of a cluster of Jaeque roses, or a
spray of creamy gloire de Dijons worn
with a black and white silk gown
trimmed simply with velvet ribbon,
| form a very lady-like and becoming
costume for the summer If one wishes
to freshen the bodice of a good black
silk or satin gown, airy black silk
point d'esprit draperies on the waist
and sleeves will make a cool and pretty
change in the gown. Then have black
point d'esprit trimmings added to the
hat or bonnet. frightened with Grim
son rose and q spray of violets or a
cluster Of soft pink roses. Point d'esprit
wears far better than chiffon or silk
tulle 1t has more dressing and body,
and is thus less affected by dampness.
Some very wonderful imported hats
are in very broad brimmed Rem
brandt and Victorian styles. weighted
variously with chaplets of grasses.
brambles, brier-roses, lilies. magnolia
blossoms. scarlet hibiscus blooms, pale
green foliage, and moss. The crowns
are high. and a still loftier effect is OBJ
tanned by the arrangement of long
loops Of tulle or ribbon and outstanding
flowers and leaves. The most of them
are crazy-looking creations which wom-
en- of taste look al with mingled awe
and disdain, and they soon turn from
them TO inspect the saner untrimmed
models in black or white, or in a mix
ture of pretty colors-models suggesting
variously the old English walking hat,
the medium Sized Rubens shape the
style with a rather low crown and fiat
briln, with no waves or angles in it,