The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-10-03
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE RICHEST COLORs TO BE FA-
VORED IN AUTUMN COSTUMES.
Women Wear Themselves Out with
Needless Hurry-WOmen's Clubs
Should Afford Recreation.

After summer almost unprecedented for
light colors and white wear, a summer dur
ing which it would seem that most women
have run a race with each other to see
which could wear the thinnest and most
fimsy materials and the most delicate
tints. the autumn season opens with colors
gorgeous almost beyond description. says
q writer in the New York Ledger. There
is a large sprinkng of deep and rich col
orings among which brilliant scarlet, car
dinal yellow, orange and the brightest
blues and greens show prominently. After
we have wondered again and again whether
we will have to wear heliotrope another
year we find it in every tint and tone, and
SO attractive that we take it up again not
only without objection, but with positive
pleasure. Underlying all these beautiful
colors we find black as the universal alter
native of the well-dressed woman. Black
silk was never more in demand and great
deal of black satin is called for. The vari-
ETY. in black silks is marvellous. Scores of
qualities and designs are shown, and choos-
ing is not an easy matter unless one is well
grounded in the idea of just what she
wants and precisely what she wants it for.
A few brocades are worn, but these are
less in request than plain-surface fabrics.
Peau de sole and gros grain are preferred
to all other black silks. Fine armure and
seeded silks are much liked and great
deal of glace is called for. During the lat
ter part of the summer the demand for
crepe de Chine increased rapidly and there
is every Indication that it will be one of
the popular fabrics for indoor wear. 1t
comes in black and all colors. and is
nlI-v l.
contrasting color Poplins are to be worn,
and, from all accounts, will be in great fa-
vor before midwinter Some of the new
styles are in plaids, and would, no doubt,
be extremely popular if the fabric had a
better reputation. But the purposes for
which they are most employed demand dur
ability and weather-p roofness, which these
materials are not supposed to possess ALI
wool Dlaids are much more serviceable,
Will come out unscathed through an amount
OF hardship that would scarcely leave
enough of a poplin 10 be recognizable For
strictly indoor wear poplins are very well,
put the woman who cannot have a new
dress every new moon will do well to con-
tent herself simply with admiring them
In black woolens henrietta cloth is one of
the standard textiles. Certain qualities of
It are strictly reserved for mourning wear
but those grades with the satin finish and
the soft luster that makes them the most
beautiful black goods ever turned out of a
loom, are worn by ladies not in mourning,
ana by them looked upon as among their
most reliable and pleasing costumes.
Priestley silkwarp Endora cloth is a super
flne henrietta a material that represents
the highest grade of excellence in dress ma
terials. In fine and novelty cloths the va
rfety is almost endless Hundreds of
weaveS and combinations are shown, and
every taste. condition and purse may be
satiSned. There is nothing more comfort
ing to the average woman than a tailor
costume of broadcloth. Well made and jul
diciously trimmed-and this last expression
means a great deal-the woman who owns
It may feel herself presentable anywhere
she mas occasion to go outside of the most
dressy functions.
The tendency to combine materials ap-
pears to be increasing. Cloth and thick
soft silk are made up together; also two
colors of cloth or two shades of the same
color. The use OF braid is almost universal:
also narrow velvet used in braiding pat
tern or in row upon row. One of the new
est models is dress of cashmere eabo-
rately trimmed with narrow black velvet
ribbon. 1t is safe to say that there is not
a square foot of the skirt without line
OF this garniture. There is square yoke
and black satin tie. Bands of white linen
at throat and wrists make neat and be-
coming finish. A dress of colored hen
rietta cloth has a trimming of narrow bias
bands of the dress material placed on
either side of bands of black lace insertion.
The front of the waist is in almost solid
q yoke is simulated by bands of the bias
goods and insertion. The collar and cuffs
are made up of alternate rows of the trim
ming material
A novel and pretty house dress is made
OF brocaded silk and plain soft-twilled
satin. The dress. is of brocade, and is cut
In princess fashion, with a full-length
front of silk in narrow tucks from collar
to hem The tucks run from side to side.
and are so close together that they overlap.
The sides of the skirt upon either edge.
where the front and sides join are trimmed
with picot-edged ribbon put on in braiding
pattern. double row of this ribbon ex-
tends around the skirt, and the yoke and
waist are trimmed with diamond-shaped
figures of the ribbon. There is high far
ing collar with the same garnture and the
sleeves are finished with ribbon bands
A very rich and effective costume is made
of heliotrope silk and velvet. The waist is
of velvet and is very elaborately trimmed
with jeweled gimp and embroidery The
sleeves are of embroidery the elbows,
and the tops are of full puffs of crepe de
Chine with embroidery bands between
There are epauletteS and a high, f1aring
collar. The skirt is of silk. with a very
wide band of velvet at the hem. At the
extreme lower edge of this band is rich
garniture of the gimp. and the upper edge,
which is in deep scallOps, is similarly fin
ished. The sleeves have deep frills of fine
lace falling over the hands.