davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

the bodice, very full and puffy at the top,
like mass of gauze, tulIe, lace, or how-
ers, from which the shoulders and bust
appear.
1.-THE waists are either pointed or round,
and the low necks either round, square or
pointed, and all laced at the back; the
sleeves are short and N much raised, often q
different trimming on each. Felix orna-
ments many of these bodices with che
rusoues of lace, guipure, EN- broidered with
spangles. gold, silver, colored beads, pearls,
diamonds, etc. These cherusques stand
up and out rather high round the back
aud shoulders of the bodice. They seem
to start from mass of lace, chiffon or
gauze. AS example: a pink satin bodice,
made with tight back, was draped in
front into corselet; large cherusque in
cream guipure, studded with diamonds,
starts in point from the back, is high on
the shoulders and diminisi es toward the
corselet, all round the shoulders quantity
of silk, gauZe and lace, with eight tufts of
pale violets falling in the gauze; very short
sleeves of gauze and lace. The skirt was
plain and half long"
Pink moire enters into the composition
of bodice also the work of Felix. 1t fits
closely, and the front is pointed. A, the
back of the waist is chou. The silk is
draped over the bust la Madame Sevigne,
being drawn in with diamond clasp in
the middle. Below these soft folds is in
troduced long, pointed piece of embroi-
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
NEW TO-DAY
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can form the greatest number of words from
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Piurais pronouns, nouns, verbs, adverbs, prefxes,
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Work it out in this manner INSTRUCTION: In,
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The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Styles for Men.

Him declares that he has "come to the
conclusion that there is more in a cravat
than any other article worn by man" and,
continues this versatile writer: In the
first place let us see about the word.
You will observe that use cravat. l do
because know that am right-cravat is
the word-neckwear,t ties, scarfs and neck
ties have been used by Americans. l con-
tend that all these terms are wrong-cravat
denotes the article. Teck (Which is syn
onymous with knot) four.in- hand (which
is synonymous with Derby) Ascot, tie,
bow. imperial, puff and fiat, are the names
of the styles or forms of cravats. We have
q habit of giving an article dozen names
and then fighting about it afterward.
want to set you right on cravats. Let US
indulge in authorities.
PIanche is an authority on dress, the
Century Dictionary is an authority on
words. Planche says. "Cravat is derived
from the French crabbar." 1t is neck
cloth or handkerchief. Planche quotes
the Ladies' Dictionary, which says: THE
word cravat is properly adjective and sig
mites comely, hand some, gracious, but it
is often used suDstantively for a new
fashioned gorget which women wear, or
riding band which men wear."
In the Century we find "Cravat-also
formerly crabbat; Greek, cravate; French,
cravate; Italian, cravatta, crotta; era
vat-so called because adopted, according
to Menage, in 1886 from the Cravales or
Croa:s in the French military service.
A neckcloth. a piece of muslin, silk or
other material worn about the neck by
men,"
Ties of all sorts and kinds will contend
for our favor this spring. For example,
the straight-cut tie is being shown, and it
is one and an eighth inches in width; also
the broad end tie and those with pointed
ends. The broad-end tie ties in bow an
| inch wide, or q fowing-end how measur-
! ing in width two inches. The Windsor
and the Ogee ties are likewise making
bid for popularity.
If the high banded turn-down collar be
| extensively worn, later on, ties will be the
| thing, and the best variety to wear will be
those having broad ends; and, remem-
ber, they must not have long sprawling
ends, and must be carefully selected with
reference to the size of the neck which
they are intended to encircle.
Roman stripes and Tartan plaids are
liked when made up into imperials. Very
pronounced styles or colorings are never
tolerated by well-dressed men.
The De Joinvilles will be as much worn
as they were last winter and are being
shown in the most beautiful and varied
designs. but in the selecIIon OF shirts and
ties remember that you cannot be too
careful in avoiding effeminacy. Your ap-
parei must smack of rugged manliness.
The stout shoes, wearable- looking gloves,
strap-seamed coverts, tweed trousers and
soft hat will impart the tone which char
acterizes the outing mode. You must
dress for all informal occasions as you
would dress for brisk walk or run
about the country. II you are not ath-
letic you are unfortunate. The ideal man
of the period is the clean shaven, broad
shouldered athlete. The day of the care
fully groomed and delicate-looking man
has passed.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
i Chic Organdy

OF the sheerest quality has for founda-
tion white taffeta slip. On the skirt are
eight ruffies, each edged with black satin,
which varies in width. as do the ruffies.
The tout ensemble is charming, and col
cred ribbons are most successful when
used in similar manner.
Zibelline promises to be fairly popular,
and one such frock has the skirt made
with two box pleats on each side, one
toward the front and one toward the back
and the blouse is in clusters of fine tucks
running up and down and is open over a
front of gray tulle spangled with steel.
The blouse droops little all round over
four inch wide belt, so that it has little
the effect of bolero. The belt is of
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Virot's Bicycle Hats.

That great artist has really condascended
to design appropriate hats for the wheel.
They are in the form of straw sailors and
are trimmed with narrow velvet ribbon,
which is twisted like o rope and passed
twice rodnd the crown and looped at the
side with bunch of quills. Under the
brim is set a plating of the riboon near
the edge, and the top of the crown is COW
cred with regular bed of loops forming
a fiat rosette. This idea is carried out IN
all brown or blue, or in gray with black,
etc.
Red will certainly be popular all sum-
mer. and truly pretty is red straw hat
with three pipings OF black velvet on the
under side OF the brim, two pipings round
the crown with rosette at one side, from
which rise quills and a bunch of violets
with their leaves. This chapeau is in
tended for young girl. MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Designs From Felix.

Felix, however, has been allowing few
special correspondents to view some oi
his latest triumphants. One writes:
81 have been able to see some of the ball
dresses that Felix is making for the
spring. They are of two kinds, either
rich silks. miroir velvet, satin glace.
moire, damas, all made with plain skirts,
or else embroidery on the materials; the
second series are of light material very
much trimmed with small founces gauze,
chiffon, embroidered tulle. fancy china
crepes, and white lace. The under skirts
call trimmed underneath with ruches,
plisses founces, and what not, forming a
support to the edge of the dress. The
skirts are close fitting at the top, and
round for the light materials, and rather
longer for the silks and richer strffs. All
the taste and wealth are concentrated on
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

9%.HE leading dressmakers and the
SES principal firms of Paris are only
JASS now beginning to exhibit their ex-
elusive models for spring, for all are in
league not to let them be seen until quite
the last moment, as the foreign buyers are
on the qui yive for ideas, and will return
home and endeayor to have the most
chic and beautiful modes reproduced at
lower figures, inferior fabrics will be util-
lied, and such garments quickly become
utterly commonplace, the markets being
flooded with them.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

appliqued as bands put on crosswise. Al
the neck appears some rich lace, and this
also is draped at one side Of the vest. The
lace is of deep creamy hue. For an
elderly matron has been designed light
gray mohair of a most superior quality,
the plain silk-iined skirt measure in width
four and half yards, the full vest is COM
posed of alternate stripes OF black velvet
and white lace insertion. The revers are
edged with the velvet. Under the turn OF
the revers peep knife pleated black and
gray chiffon, one over the other. This
arrangement OF chiffon also falls over the
hands. The dainty gray bonnet for this
dress has a touch of Hack and white.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

looked charming, with every frill hemmed
with a narrow black velvet ribbon, the
lining OF pale pink glace, with three frills
on the hem treated in the same fashion,
and ruff1e Of the pink and blue frills
finished it round the neck where it was
tied into pointed ends in quaint, old
fashioned stylen
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
The Prodigal Father

That bright little play by our gifted
countryman. Glen Macdonough, is now on
the boards in London, and in it the lead
ing actresses wear toilets from the
famous Maison Jay, all of which are
more than satisfactory. One is of pink
crepe de chine, covered with a most
lovely embroidery done in steel and
coral-an unusual com mbination, but. coral
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

teresting, 80 let US hasten to tell you that
great velvet girdle of most exquisite
shade OF pink gives lovely touch of color.
The neck Is cut round and displays a
neck of great beauty, but the still rounded
shapely arms were partially concealed by
long mousquctaire sleeves that extended
to the knuckles of snowy hand. Pink
ostrich tips increased the effectiveness OF
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

nection with the perfect cut imparts an un-
mistakable cachet to the entire dress.
The hat worn with it is of fine black
straw, and has folds and loops OF satin
ribbon OF reseda and white velvet and q
cluster of black ostrich tins.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

derry wrought in silver, steel spangles
and diamonds in black gauze. OF the
same embroidery is demi-cherusoue
which starts from the back in point and
extends high over the shoulder, and ends
at the corner of the arms. The short
sleeves are made of coquille of MORE
and aAfrilling OF pIeated white net. The
skirt hangs faultlessly. and is absolutely
without ornamentation. But little imagi-
nation is requisite to comprehend the
charms of such a creation.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Fit for a Queen.

Hollands youthful Queen has recently
received three charming ball costumes
which are not quite as simple as those
worn by most debutantes, owing to her
exalted position. One of these must be
especially becoming to this very blonde
young maiden, as it is of the shade known
to the French as water green, and is a
handsome satin merveilleux. Around the
bottom OF the beautifully cut skirt is a
founce Of white lace applique OF m edium
width which is beaded with a narrow
white satin ribbon. The bodice is cut low
and is completely covered with lace, and
has berthe composed of the narrow
white satin ribbon and insertions of the
lace fastened at each shoulder. Like most
we'll made frocks. each ana every ono is
most exquisitely finished both inside and
out, frills of lace ana silk always being
sewn around the inside of all the skirts.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

white, striped with lines of steel braid,
and is fastened with bow of velvet.
Spangled tulle is in,the neck and wrists.
A heart-sha ped piece of white lace. with
steel, is appliqued on the front of the
neckband and falls slightly down over the
tulle. The sleeve is cut in one piece, with
puff at the top, and the lower part of
the puff is in tucks running round. The
skirt is finished separate from the lining
and is slightly gathered on the sides, the
pleats being included in the gathers.
Openwork steel passementerie is apphaued
on the sleeves and down the skirt but is
not necessary to the effect. The gown
embodies the latest ideas in all its de-
tails"
A gray zibelline owned bv a belle is
trimmed with velvet of the same hue;
this composes the belt, which has a deep
point in front; bolero of the velvet is
pointed in front and runs up high behind.
The velvet band in the skirt begins long
in front and extends up high in the back.
All the lines being parallel give the figure
the appearance OF being cut in three dag
onal sections, and to carry out the effect
there is high pleating in the back of the
Several Original CONNECTIONS
Merit our consideration and admiration,
so from the varied models I have care
fully selected those most likely to profit
my readers. To begin with, it is long
time since we have had any news from
Doucet, and hear that his latest cloth
dress is of pale brown cloth. the skirt and
bolero being ornamented with a soft fluffy
silken trimming; with it was worn q
cbemisette of white chiffon and draped
belt of white Japanese silk. lace cravat
and ruffles. A simple little dress. is it
not?
White and cream white is so becoming
to most women that Doucet is using such
chemisettes for even serges and. cheviots.
His idea of again using white cloth (usu-
ally broadcloth) for home dresses has
been favorably received, and one such
which has come 10 this country has ap-
plications of beautiful guipure on both
the skirt and bodice. The epaulets are of
the guipure frilled with chiffon. Maize
satin forms the belt, neckband and vest.
So numerous are to be the smart cloth
costumes that it is well to remembe that
If you have close-fitting cloth bodice it
should be cut on the cross so as to avoid
any back seams or darts. Blouses are
Icing made to fit smoothly over the
shoulders and are as much liked as ever.
Many schoolgirls wear plaided ones with
velvet collars and cuffs. In some cases q
broad pIeat extends down the front OF the
velvet. on which are sewn five pretty but
tons.
in Etamine
OF a tan shade is much admired. The lin
ing is of light blue silk. The skirt is abb
solutely plain, but the bodice has blue
silk vest embroidered in tones of brown
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Redfepn's Latest Design

Is an extremely smart walking gown.
made Of a very fine b-oadcloth Of light
CEDAR tint. The coat has long, narrow re-
vers OF equal width throughout, faced
with black satin and relieved with reseda
MORE velours under a fine network of
gold and jet embroidery, Suggestive OF an
Oriental applique. On the cuffs this also
appears. The close-itting vest OF reseda
moire velours has small revers OF white
MORE, shot with gold, and it is fastened
with exquisite gold buttons. The lining
throughout is Of reseda satin. and in con-
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Hn Ophelia Satin.

Another conception is carried out
triumphantly in rich Ophelia satin.
The bodice, plain 10 the back, is laced; a
bow finishes it. The fronJ terminates in .
point, fits snugly and opens with TWO wide
revers that extend to the waistline, being
edged with very fine narrow lace and
diamond nail beads. Directly in the
middle of the front is bow. The sleeves
are novel. as they are not at all alike.
White bobbin-net coquille with tuft OF
turquoise blue feather tips and orchids
placed toward the front formed the right
sleeve; the left sleeve is of bobbin-net and
Ophelia ribbons. The skirt is plain, in
deed; so many of Felix's skirts are un-
trimmed that it is to be hoped his ideas
may have restraining effect upon those
who are now sadly overlooking with
founces, ribbons, braidr etc., otherwise
lovely skirts.
Toilets at the Partisan Opera.
The Comtesse de Castries was gowned
in rose Ophelia damas, over which were
scattered innumerable paste diamonds Of
wonderful brilliancy; the bodice, made In
the Renaissance style, had long point;
the neck was boIdered with beautiful
large pearls. A pearl fastening caught up
the short bouillonne sleeves. The skirt
was long and plain. Pearls adorned the
hair with an aigrette of white ostrich tips;
the large fan was of the same feathers.
The white silk stockings had an entire
deux of white lace, and the shoes were OF
the same fabric as the dress; long ivory
white kid gloves with cuff Of rare lace
were held in place with row of choice
pearls.
| A fascinating Marquise looked her pref
tiest IN semi-trained skirt of satin glace
nacre, pink and white, beautifed with a
tablier of rarest old Alencon lace edged
with pink feathers powdered with dia-
mond dust. The low-cut bodice had a
round waist and was draped crosswise
with soft folds 1t was headed with q
quilting of the Alencon lace and violets.
The collarette spread out like cherusque
OF diamond-worked lace. The sleeves
were short ana of lace and violets. and the
high marabout aigrette was fastened with
bow OF diamonds. Her empire fan of
pink crepe sparkled with silver.
The Countess de Bryas wore silver.
striped Nile green brocade made with
double berthe of old lace, apparently held
in place by the corselet or brocade.
Nine. Losseline appeared in craquelle
velvet glace of silver finish. The entire
skirt was spangled with silver and the
low bodice. which was bordered with sa-
bic, was finished with quantity of lace.
The wide-foIded cincture was of white
satin beautifed with black and silver
spangles. From the left shoulder to the
right hip extended Gordon of blush roses
Il Dinner Gown
Worn last week by a handsome grand
mother is of the most beautiful qualify OF
Jet black satin. The skirt is completely
velIed with pelissed chiffon in fan effect.
The short round bodice is also covered
with the chiffon. Now thus far the de-
scription of the dress sounds rather unin.
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14

the lovely SNOWY hair. This delightful
robe was lined throughout with pink silk.
Absurd as it certainly is for elderly
women to try to dress quite as gayly as
their daughters, it is a great mistake for
them to wear nothing but grays or black,
as they used to do twenty or thirty years
ago, for when becoming, touch OF color
is capable of wonderful results.
A youthful madame at a similar func-
tion created a mild sensation when at
tired in a white moire, interviewer with a
thread of gold; the gauze bodice was most
artistically draped and covered, some
open work gold embroidery of extraor-
dinary beauty.
In "Spiritisms."
How effective is the great actress in q
long. plain skirt Of gorgeous white bro
cade, tho bodice draped with priceless
lace and the oldest imaginable epaulettes
of chinchillal Again does she wear a
great stole, and this time it is OF Ruipure,
bordered with chinchilla. Now the fact
il Sarah's figure 10 vastly improved by
wearing the stole; and it being far newer
than the fichu-indeed az. yet it is nov
elty-women with pronounced stomachs
would do well to Investigate. etanother
creation in lisse and creamy gauze has q
chic stole of crepe de chine of q pale-yel-
low tone on which are embroideries in
white chenille. Quite good idea it would
be to have such stole in delicate lines TO
wear with the dainty muslins, chiffons
and organdies about which we will hear
more every week now for the next few
months.
For some considerable time we have
realized the fact that no more charming
gowns for evening could be devised than
those OF chiffon elaborately gathered,
tucked and embroidered, and now we
know that they, although extremely ex-
pensive, are to form part Of the wardrobe
of our smartest and swellest girls. Only
chiffon OF the best quality can be seriously
considered, and mo home dressmaker can
handle this fabric with any hope of sue
cess, SO very difficult is it to manipulate
with success. Chiffon looks its best
mounted over plain glace :affeta, and
many now line it with net; and apro-
pos of net. much-admired dress is of
black mounted over white; has medal
lions OF lace let in round the hips, and
from there the lace is gathered into vo-
luminous founces, which extend to the
hem. With it was worn an
Ideal Theater Cloak,
Composed entirely of frills of violets of
different shades, from the brightest purple
to the palest mauve. s'These ffills were
in antique satin and miroir velvet. The
length of the cape extended but to the
hips. The neck was finished with rufae
OF flowers. These frilled capes are likely
to be the most popular form of theater
wrap when We doff our fur garments.
They may be very effectively and econ
omically made with glace silk. One, in
deed. which has come my way in pale blue
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
i'm Etanine

ing is OF light blue silk. The skirt is abb
solutely plain, but the bodice has blue
silk vest embroidered in tones of brown
outlined with gold. The embroidery is
The San Francisco call., 1897-03-14
Il Dinner Gown

Worn last week by a handsome grand
mother is of the most beautiful qualify OF
Jet black satin. The skirt is completely
velled with pelissed chiffon in fan effect.
The short round bodice is also covered
with the chiffon. Now thus far the de-
scription of the dress sounds rather unin.