The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-01-22
OVER THE TEACUPS.


oHOuiu YOU WISH 10 De very CiiC tHe
in the latest fashion you must have
4 train to your evening gown.
A new idea in skirt garniture is tC
nave two bias pieces of the material
four inches wide and nine inches lone
across each hip from back to front, the
centre just touching the belt. This
has seven buttons and false button
holes on the upper edge. A bias fold
skirt with the buttons, put on in clus-
tiers of five at intervals of about L
inches. 1t is very new and stylish.
g g g
An effective and new idea developed
by a leading modiSte on a violet camel s
hair gown was to have the vest of the
jacket and the front panel of the skirt
in a plaid silk combining two shades of
green. white and violet The jacket
met at the neck displaying the silk at
point, then gradually widened TO the
bottom Of the skirt, and it seemed as
il IL were all one piece.
For use on plain material the fancy
velvets or silks give the best results,
while for chameleon fabrics plain trim
ming is the most successful.
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Some extremely swell jacket bodices
displayed in one of our large shops had
jaboted bfeteiles and tops edged with
gimp. The sleeves had fiaring cuffs to
match.
Accordion plated pink chiffon over
pink satin is covered with white lace
and striped with narrow rows of mink
fur for an evening cloak; the lining is
of pink and white brocade. Another
dainty wrap is of black velvet lined
=, in nIar.fai n wit n
jet and trimmed with chinchilla fur.
If you hear Milan gimp spoken of
you win know that is a very much
used gimp at the present time, into
which a little gold or silver is intro
duced in the design.
Bebe ribbon, principally in black vel
vet or satin, is being used by miles to
trim gowns this year.
A popular new collar for a bodice is
a military one with an outside fiaring
one cut in tabs stiffened and lined with
silk, then edged with narrow velvet or
silk, or metal cord.
Moderation is the word in regard to
the prevailing modes for skirts and
sleeve. They are both much smaller
than last season and yet not scant
either.
No gown is complete these days with
out the stock beng finished with a fl III
or an additional high fiaring collar
around the back and sides.
A novelty in white skirts for evening
wear is made of fine lawn. with two
wide lace-trimmed fiounces. set one
over the other and a richer one of
silk. which buttons on underneath to
give the skirt body and furnish the
desired rustic. Pretty skirts of book
muslin are made with a 9-inch ruffle
edged with lace set in at the bottom,
a much wider-a full half yard-ruffie
sewn on above TO meet the lower edge
Of the narrow one, but still another
hounce reaching well above the knees.
over all. This has insertions of lace
set in and a frill of lace on the edge.
But the inner ruffie has a lace frill, so
the effect at the bottom is that of three
skirts in one. The fit around the hips
IS very carefully considered in these
lays, and the short under petticoat,
as we'll as the long one, should fit very
smoothly over the hips, with the full
ness well gathered in at the back.
Negligee gowns were never so pretty
u so fascinating in style as they are
low. They are made of fine cashmere,
hin, soft silk, and crepe de chene in
LII the light, delicate colors and elabo-
'ately trimmed with lace and ribbon.
)ne of the seasons models in pink
,repe de chene is made with skirt
With a Spanish flounce headed by two /
narrow rows of valencienneS insertion, !
et in above TO form a bow knot in /
ront and back, and trimmed around 1
he edge with a lace frill. The jacket /
s one Of the loose, straight styles so |
fashionable in street coats and is laid |
II plaits below the yoke ard trimmed /
With the lace insertion, which also (
tripes the bishop sleeves. Morning |
owns of cashmere made with a Wat |
eau back, a pointed belt of velvet to |
raw. the fullness in at the waist in |
ront, and a velvet bolero and collar
dyed with lace, are serviceable and (
ressy as well. The Jacket effect is in !
he front, and frill of lace falls over
he short puff at the top of the sleeves.
% @ g
The finest articles of underwear are
lade of batiste, nainsook, linen lawn,
nd silk, and so daintily trimmed and
tucked and hemstitched that to con-
amplate this outlay, so truly feminine
q all its appointments, is sure to Gre
tie one of those exalted moments in
he fact that she is a woman whether
he can afford to indulge a measure of
MS frivolity or not. The most ethereal
lidal outfits are trimmed with real
lace in new patterns or
ne finest torchon made of such cob
'ebby thread that ii deserves a new
anne; and the most exquisite embroid-
" is not too fine for this purpose of
ecoration. Night gowns are made
18th both the high and the square neck
18th elbow sleeves, lace ruffles. and
collars and epauletts.
anded with lace insertion and finished
4 the edge with lace frilIs. Satin rib
1n in blue, pink. yellow or white,
lree or four. inches wide, ties around
lie waist and forms rosette bows for
lie sleeves and either side of the neck.
he latest fancy in night gowns Is
lied the Bernhardt; it is very full
altered in to form an empire waist,
as voluminous sleeves, and is made
India lawn or China silk. Chiffon
tie, a finer, softer silk, is the perfec-
on of material for this sort of gown.
1t nothing is so satisfactory after all
; the India lawn and fine nainsooks
lat can pass muster in the laundry.
100