davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1897-08-31
MORE THINKING WANTED.

When man accepts office, he
agrees to stand out in the light,
and expose his weakness, as well as
his strength. But it is a part of his
contract with the public that he
shall be fairly and honestly treated.
The miserable, cruel and even ma
licious slandering of public men
keeps some of the best moral and
mental power out of public life.
The community suffers from its
own ''cussedness."
At the same time free, and even
strong criticism of officials, is the
safeguard of democratic Govern
ment. If an official doesn't like
lit, he has no business to hold office.
He is the agent of the people, and
only puts on lordly and foolish airs,
if he can't take the tonic of whole
some discussion. He has no bust
ness to take a position when his
I''feeling are hurt" He does not
pay for the damage done by his I'M
wise acts. The people behind him
foot the bills.
|. We say this is advance of our
criticism on the general work of
the members of the Cabinet. These
men are, in our opinion, doing al
together too much detail work, and
not enough of that higher and more
exacting brain work, which is the
crying need of these transition
days. The Republic suffers from
it. The Attorney General, over
worked for four years, still has the
details of the Health department
to attend to. The Minister of For
eign Affairs attends to many nu-
merous details of the Educational
department. The other Ministers
are more or less involved in admin
istrative detail.
Our political condition involves
us in complicated relations with the
United States. We have been, for
some years, ON the eve of comph-
cations with Japan, and now we are
in them. We have had to deal
with the most embarrassing ques-
ton of labor. 1t concerned our in
ternal affairs, and went to the ex-
Iistence of civilization here. 1t con
cerned our relations with America,
and seriously touched the question
Of reciprocity and political union.
These questions, numerous, intri-
cate and even dangerous, called fol-
the best thinking" the best study
i We had no men trained on these
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
New Wood Pulp Silks.
Their Beauty, Durability Similarity

Artificial silk, made mostly of wood
pulp, is being sold as natural silk in
many New York dry goods stores It
is said by an expert in silks that the
merchants selling artificial silks do not
know that the fabrics in question are
not the produce of the silkworm. The
same expert says that but for a lack
of tensile strength when wet, the wood
pulp fibre is in no way to be distin-
guished from. natural silk, except per-
haps by a slight superiority in lustre.
Generally speaking, the cost of produc-
ton Of the wood pulp fabric is just one
third that of natural silk.
The artificial silk now on the market
is manufactured at Besancon, France
under the Chardonet patent process
which for the present is secret. AS in
numerous similar processes heretofore
tried, wood pulp is the main material
used in its manufacture. The pulp is
made from spruce wood by the usual
methods of maceration. When it is in
/ a condition like lukewarm gelatine it
is run off through faucets that have
4 openings little larger than pin point
The fibre issues in a fine continuous
drum, on which it is dried After this
it is treated in every way as if it were
real silk that had been wound off from
cocoons. In fact, the intent of the pro-
! cess is to reproduce, as closely as can
be done by machinery, the methods of
the silkworm in spinning its own sleep
/ ing blanket. All previous experiments
calculated to make artificial silk from
I wood pulp have ended with the dis
/ coVery that fibres obtained from that
material return to a pulp condition
when wet, and, therefore, fabrics made
from them are unwashable. Chardonet
has avoided this fault by the addition
OF a substance supposed to be of the
nature of glucose. His fibres may be
boiled in water for any length of time
without change of form or loss Of lus-
ire, though they. soften perceptibly and
lose, temporarily, great deal of their
tensile strength, which, however. re-
turns to them when thew are dry again.
Another fault of wood pulp silks hereto
fore has been that they were found to
/ be exceedingly infammable, and. in
fact, almost explosives. Chardonet
/ fibres burn no more rapidly than ordi-
/ nary wooden cloth e-l
In the fabrics into which wood pulp
fibres have been woven so far 40 per
/ cent of real silk of low grade has been
used in combination with the artificial
/ silk. In mixing the. two the artificial
! tibres are used for filling In weaving
/ silk the crosswise threads are called
/ the filling and the "lengthwise threads
the warp. The filling therefore is cub
/ iected to-less strain than the WARP. and
/ is protected by it. The resultant fabric
has the resiliency and the body of a
/ cloth-made altogether of natural silk
/ and is somewhat more glossy. AS far
/ as it's wearing qualities have been test
4 ed the wood pulp fabric has shown no
| inferiority. 1t takes dyes In lukewarm
water, while natural silk must be boil
! ed in the dyeing fluid before assuming
satisfactory colors. Artificial silk has
] no greasy surface that attracts dust.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
THE BOARDING HOUSE LUNCH.
How One Landlady Varies the Daily
Ration AcceDtnbIy

There Is an excellent lady In whose family
boards young man of domestic tastes and
unassaifabfe appetite. She puts up a lunch
for him every day and he carries il with him
to his business. In so far this story does not
differ in any wise from the experience Of
thousands of other young men who board in
excellent families and carry their lunches
But this young man claims that for an in
finite variety of luncheOns that custom cannot
stale his landlady has the call. Now. a
luncheon, in the parlance Of the life of him
who boards, is a sandwich or several Of
them.
1t takes considerable art to conceal the fact
that he is eating something that he had yes
terday and expects to get again tomorrow
To vary the ration taxes the resources of the
commisary of subsistence, but it can be done
The young man in question has kept a
journal, or commonplace book in which he
1ots down, among other things, what he had
to eat each day. From these items he has
made partial list of sandwiches, including
those which had the following ingredients:
Fig paste, fried egg, grape butter, roast
goose. honey, rabbit, gooseberry, chicken.
jelly, roast beef, lemon marmalade wiener
wurst, sugar, ham, tongue, turkey sausage.
deviled ham and caviar. 1t is always a mo
ment of suspense with him when he sits
down before his lunch for he knows not
what pleasant surprise it may have in store
for him. Just now he is taking a course of
preserved ginger sandwiches with the best of
results. The daily meal has its entrees of pie,
pudding or fruit, but ii is the composition Of
the material lying between the two lids of the
sandwich that most concerns him who dis
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
Ar GERMAN COURT BALLS.
The Late kaiserin Objected to the
Waltz, but 1t Is Danced at the
Court of Stuttgart.

A few years ago the mnuet and the ga
vote were the special dances Of the Berlin
court, the kaiser himself having taken a
special fancy to them Somehow they did
not find much favor in society and after
ALL the oId-fashioned habits are all very
well when the actors are dressed In the
clothes of the period and resemble in mode Of
thought and carragce of body their great
grandparents. But few young people are like
their forefathers. There was some reason for
the introduction of fanciful and picturesque
dance at the grand festivals of an imperial
court, especially as very special rules pre-
vailed there.
1t is we'll known that the late Kaiserin
Augusta strongly objected to Waiting. and 50
does the court of B erlin. The consequence
is that a kind of gallop was invented for
Berln-a two-timed movement, danced to the
music of the waltz, but not at all resembling
In Mecklenburg the waltz is never danced
at all at court, the reason for this being, as
it is said that the Grand Duchess Marie does
not like dancing. Moreover, almost every
where at German courts the slow waltz was
looked down upon bad style. Good style
depends upon the leaders of fashion, and so
the slow waltz has been pronounced as the
correct kind to be danced at the court of
Stuttgart this winter. Both the queen and her
stepdaughter very fond of Waiting. Her
majesty has ordered that the waltz is to
be danced slowly at the court balls now, as
is the custom in Vienna.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
SAVING IMPERFECT TEETH.
Siml lie Rules Which All Can Easily
Follow.

Numbers Of women and girls who value
their personal appearance would dauLtless
avoid doing certain things, which, by slow
degrees, injure the teeth i ihoy onlv knew
cases imperfect teeth result from a daliclte
constitution, but that rarely h Ids good with
our society women ior they athletic
ana pay so much attention to physical Gull
ture that their constitutions are as rugged
as AmaZOns, and their imperfect teeth must
be laid to something else. rh9re are things
which should always be avoided, and ny DO
ing so teeth would ram IN in rrrd1T IN years
longer. The habit of taking beverages SO
not That you can just sip tnom, -. n the
other hand, iced drinks, have 4 distinctly
deleterious effect on the .eeth. The process
OF drawing a medicine through Il tube instead
OF taking it with spoon is not alone suffl-
Client to insure the tee,h being ininjured:
they should be brushed Immediately afterwdrd
and the mouth thocJCElhy rnsed with tepid
water
Women who are addicted 10 The bon bon
habit and who consume large .Iuantit .es Of
expensive candies would ~ wise to never
indulge without bru-hing their tech nnIne-
diately after. In the care IF the teeth merely
brushing them is not sufficient far when the
teeth are close together it is advisable to
draw a piece # silk thread several tunes
between them,. so as to make certain that all
the little creyices are quite clear, and then
the brush may ne uSC'l advaniagcSuSlv
Twice or three times a davis not too often
to brush the teasn; 4 long hrlstinI brush Of
medium hardness Is host adam, ed 10 the lur-
pose anu lepld- water should always be used,
as cold is always injurious. 1t is always a.
good plan to rinse the mouth after eating
but water alone is not always sufficient to
sweeten and freshen the breath and an ex-
cellent mouth WASH Which any pne can easily
prepare is as follows , an q, cologne III
ounces; powdered h0raX | dram. dissolN ed in
little lot water, tincture of myrrh, l
dram; orange flower water, ounces. When
using add small qua i4y ( HE hduiI to
half tumbler of water Oi course it is IT.
| necessary for one ID add that one should
pay regular visits to a god dentist and that
day -
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
dshiOnS of New York.
Attractive Raiment For the Springtime Weddings

deep lisse frills, headed by a very narrow
pufing. The draped belt was of white faille,
fastened at the left side with q small wind
mill bow. There were no orange blossoms on
any part Of the costume, except a small half
wreath over the hair, from under which the
long tulle veil depended. This fell backward
and had an inch and half hem.
The present fancy for the bridal bouquet
is to have white half-opened roses, with their
foliage mingled with smilax and I1aidenhair
fern, and tho whole tied with a tulle bow
with long ends. In one instance there was a
spray of fern sewed upon a large ribbon
bow, mingled with tulle, and this depended
from the main bouquet by two white ribbons.
With a bridal gown is always furnished a
wreath and bouquet of artificial flowers,
which may or may not be copied in real ones.
This is good idea, for there are times and
places where it would be impossible to obtain
the real flowers. They are preferable in all
cases, though they fade soon.
There is not now second day. dress.
1t is supposed that the young couple &c
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
X trik iDg MilIiDery.
Fashions Paroxysm of Shape and Color.

NEW YORK, April S.-The Easter
bonnet, and incidentally the hat, too,
will decidedly outshine itself this year
in many ways. The shapes are remark
able, some of them having crowns a
foot high and but six inches in diane
ter. There are two shapes of these
crowns. One is bell crowned, and the
other .narrows as it reaches the top.
The brims are the same size all around,
forming thus a complete circle. The
brims are undulated, sometimes sing
~ and at other times having a double
one, or perhaps one might call it a
ruff1e of straw. These high crowned
hats are of coarse straw and Of all
colors of the AUTOMATICALLY so,
though each one is in one color only.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
CONCERNING SCREENS.
They Should Not Be Placed, but Al
lowed to Occur

1t was a long time ago that a celebrated
decorator insisted that screens should not be
placed-they should occur" No article of
furniture is so useful for filing up odd
or ugly corner and for cutting off draft.
The screen may be made of anything that is
decorative, and it can be tackled upon a
frame. from bit Of pasted Japanese paper
to a rare old scrap of Spanish leather. In
some hints on home decoration the Puritan
has the following to say on screens:
1t should always be borne IN mind that a
screen is properly a decoration, and, except
in the case where 1t is door screen, which
fits tightly into its frame and stays in one
place it should not be a picture. A finished,
ambitious picture deserves a good light. II
is undignified if 1t is not in appropriate sur
roundings and these cannot alweys be had
for the movable screen. The screen, should
Itself be of the character of a background
Its colors must be soft, It's design purely dec
orative and at any angle it should be a
pleasing object for the eye to rest upon.
The Japanese know the art of screen-mak-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
Where daughters Dress Alike.

In Yucatan Central America. sisters dress
precisely alike. even to the tying of bow,
the turn of a button or the flower in the
hair. In the tropics large families are the
rule, and any day you may see in that coun-
try girls in groups of from three to bakers
dozen who belong to the same family, as
distinguish the members Of a family any
where, and not nfreauentiy sisters are called
by their favoFite howerSor color. In Anam
men and women. wearsthetr shaiTE in the same
finger rings are worn byswoReH only. Lapp
men and women. dress alike.saThe men and
women of the Cree tribe of Indians dress
alike but can be distinguished by the orna-
mentation Of their leggings, that of the men
being vertical, and that of the women hori-
Zontal.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11

ornament, two aigrets and five cocoa
colored ostrich plumes.
Very many straw hats are OF green
IN one shade or another, and often OF
two or three mixed. No other color
makes such a background for the How
ers, or indeed any other trimming.
Panama straw has come again, and
when trimmed like one L saw today
with drapery of grasscloth and an
upright plating of the same, forming
relief to the odd arrangement OF
purple pokeberries and their tender
green leaves. they are very pleasing
Soft green null or lace or crepe lisst
is shirred onto pretty forms, and these
hold punches of delicate flowers, most
ly lilacs. Lilacs and pink roses are
put together to trim some IF these del
icate and delicious little hats and ton-
nets
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
NEW DESIGNS IN WEDDING GOWNS.

away on trip long or short and travelling
does not demand anything more elaborate
than a nice tailor-made gown of cloth. che
viot Venetian or serge in any of the seasons
colors. In short, brides travelling dress is
and should be of the least ob,rusive sort.
For complete outfit for a bride 50 much
depends upon her financial position that one
can scarcely give a good general idea but no
makes up great quantities of unde3inen or
even buys many gowns. A couple of
early morning wrappers, a coupe Of pretty
dressing sacks, one tailor suit one visiting
costume as costly as her purse can buy one
nice afternoon dress, one tea gown, one or
two dresses for dinner and evening
Mate Leroy.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11

nos With innocent coquetry, Caroline, her
faithful servitress Of thirty years standing,
has tied up the beautiful sets of sheets and
pillowcases and towels and tabecloths and
napkins in pink and blue ribbon, with little
outstanding bows, so the cupboard, when
opened resembles a flower garden. Patti
might we'll make the same reply that Nine.
Roland made when one Of h,r friends said
wonderingly: How your servants love you'll
Nine Patti, indeed, is literally adored by
her servants, and is even CONTRARY to the old
adage that no man is a hero to his valeO q
heroine to her maid.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
The sympathetic Woman.

The truly sympathetic woman is Just az
ready to laugh as to weep with US on oc-
casion. She is never tired with our troubles
nor envious Of our good fortune. She has
the knack of making men feel that their
concerns are her concerns, though they tend
but to the football field and are bounded by
the smoke of the favorite meerschaum. This
is an art in itself. and its reward tarries not,
for such woman is never without an attend
ant swain. When men are scarce, when
there are not enough Of them to go around,
she has them to spare. She make any
man feel very fine fellow indeed in his own
world.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
right to testify without eliminating themselves

right to testify without eliminating themselves
as to who sold or gave them cigarettes.
Woman's Temperance Union of Baltimore
has been appointed by the mayor of the
city a member of the board of visitors to
the city jail. This board, composed Of men,
with the exception of Mrs. Robinson, has
made her chairman of the committee on dis
cipiine in the Jail, and her influence, says
Miss Willard is already felt in numerous
phases of its management The mayor has
also appointed one OF Baltmore's leading
women on the board of the city almshouse and
female house Of refuge, and the physician
in charge of the women's college is the only
woman member of the new board of school
comm. ss.oners. of the city Of baltimore
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
W0MAN's PROGRESS.
She Is Forging to the Front and Fill
ling Many Offices in Alabama and
Arkansas.

Miss Frances E. Willard states that great
signs and tokens of progress in reforms
come from the South and she is exceeding
ly happy. The governor of Arkansas has
appointed two women notaries public. The
governor of Missouri has declared every Of
fee in the state open to women, unless they
are especially debarred by statute. Alabama
has made women eligible as county superin-
tendents Of schools
The senate Of North Carolina has passed
by a vote Of Il to the bill aprpopriating
$50, 000 for a state reformatory. This bill
was brought before the state legislature by
the Womans Christian Temperance Union.
Another bill, which the "waite-ribboners'' OF
North Carolina designate as "our bill, .
has passed the senate, forbidding the sale or
giving Of cigarettes to minors and prohibit
smoking cigarettes. This gives minors the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
The New Ten.

Matrimony has ten commandments.
These were studied out by Theodore Par
ker shortly before the day of his wedding.
They took the form of ten beautiful reso-
lutions, which he inscribed in his journal.
They are as follows:
1. Never except for the best reasons, to
oppose my wifes will.
2. To discharge all duties for her sake
freely.
3. Never 3itoiiseold.
4. Never to look cross at her.
s. Never to worry her with commands.
g. To promotei her piety.
T. To bear her burdens.
s. To overlook her. foibles.
g. To save, cherish and forever defend her.
10. To remember her always in my pray
ers. Thus, God willing, we shall be blessed.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11

ing perfectly, and intelligent decorators OF
all countries have learned valuable lessons
from them. Some of the prettiest of the new
screens are OF tapestry orDamented with
dainty figures in simple soft co.ors and di-
rect frames. Others, more magnificent, are
of rich brocades, or the splendid fooled and
gilded feathers.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11

In the preparation of cocoon silk there
Is always a little Of the animal grease
left in the f1bres. Every woman who
has tried to get the dust off of a bro
cade gown knows the affection which
dust has for this grease A brocade
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-04-11
PATHS Fondness for Linen.

Nine Patti who is wonderful housefrau
has a perfect passion for l.nen Her cup
boards are among the wonders OF raig-y-
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1897-09-03

county coast. The island is owned by
the wealthy Gardner family OF Boston,
of which Mrs. John L. Gardner Is the
most prominent member, and Mrs.
Jack" spends several weeks each sum
mer on the island. The care-taker who
resides here the year round with his
family is Herbert Long, a well known
and hard working farmer. The island
belongs to the town OF Rogue Bluffs
and the people out Of consideration for
the many favOrs the Gardeners have be-
slowed on the town, give Mr.. Long a
term of school all for his own little
flock
The Indian encampment at Campo
bello used to afford novel and interest
ing amusement for the boys during the
summer evenings in those days when
the Passamaauoddy tribe of Indians
was much larger than it is now, and
used to come down from Pleasant
point and tent out on that part of the
island just opposite Gun Rock" The
Indians, especially the squaws, occu-
pied their evenings. trying out porpoise
oil from the fish shot by the men dur
ing the day or early morning in the
bay opposite Lubec. For this purpose
large fires were aglow throughout the
encampment, presenting a weird an
pearance, with the numerous families
of squaws dancing and amusing them
selves about the fires, while here and
there the boys would stroll about and
trade tobacco trinkets, etc, for spruce
gum. baskets, etc.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1897-09-03

future what 1t has done in the past?
viii college presidents regard this act
of Incorporation as warranting them In
espousing and advocating by means OF
letters, speeches and newspapers every
thing from Ingersollism to secession?
If so they have not profited from that
act as Brown University has done.
1t is but fair to say, however. that
the vote of the corporation in request
ing Andrews to remain indirectly, for
we believe the direct purpose was 20
clear the university of an unjust i'm
putation. pays tribute to his efforts in
behalf of the institution in the past;
also that there has been nothing said
or done by any director or trustee of
the institution implying that Andrews
was not sincere. nor anything implying
that he had no right to retain his con-
victions and the presidency at the
same time. The objection was to his
promulgating and PROSECUTING. This he
declares he has not done; but that let
tiers he wrote were published and made
much more of than he expected, that
in this sense he had been UNI
fortunate but not indiscreet. The tone
of his letter read to the meeting indi-
Gated not only that he would try to
avoid indiscretion in the future, bur
profiting from the past would probably
be less unfortunate" also that there
was a probability he would reconsider
if asked. In estimating the value of
his opinion on the currency, though
there is no longer any particular in
terest in that opinion, especially as the
logic of recent events utterly disproves il
it will be we'll not to overlook the fact
that he adheres to the notion that free
coinage of silver 16 to / by the United
States would restore silver from the
depths it has fallen to a parity with
gold. All great men are said to be eN
tremely weak in some respects.