The Portland daily press., 1897-07-31

Won time to look about Bit" True to
his word. we often fingered long, but the
race is not Away to the swift and Art
ful'' gave us opportunity to write lndeli-
bly upon our memory pictures of green
fields and ripening wheat, and to listen
Al niphtfall on our return from Stratford
"a the song Of many nightingales. 1t
needs a Walter Scott in the flesh to build
AGAIN to the sight seer's perfect satisfac-
ton. the ruined Castle Of Kenilworth,
though the spot is indicated where the
banquet-hall was, yet the thick carpet
with only fragmentsof ivy -mantled wall
remaining, require most vivid .recollec-
tion of the great romance, to recall Kenil-
Worth's former glory.
Far different is it with lordly Warwick
Castle. whose magnificent grounds and
luxurious interior, give every evidence Of
wealth and unremitting care. We were
specially interested IN the noted French
nainting Of the Countess, hung in the
Castle. and inquired of the condescending
gentleman in gold lace and many medals
IF if was a good likeness? Instantly we
found the question to be fatal mistake
aMadam, was the answer in stern and
surprised tones, there never was, there
never could be, a good likeness of anyone
SO beautiful as the Countess of Warwick;
il is simply impossible to represent with
brush and paint, such loveliness.' This
did not tally accurately with what we had
previously heard outside the castle walls.
but fearing imprisonment for doubt we
bIushed deprecatingly and moved on. by
request. The wonders of the Art gallery
were shown-the king makers historic
mace-and peep given into the dining
room resplendent IN crimson and gold.
same afternoon-after we had sat on the
chimney settle where Shakespeare won
Anne Hathaway and visited the memorial
theatre and church. that 'ArtfuP' with
his best foot foremost, and Thomas with
his whip much frayed at the end, drew
rein before the ''bard of Avon's'' birth
place. Kind reader imagine 1--WE cannot
depict) our disnay when the keeper of
the door, with q gesture of command,
said in most expsperatingly cheerful
voice, "closed for the night ladies'" In
vain we argued, with that sometimes in
sensate being called "man', that if he
would give us the five minutes the law
allowed, instead of consuming 1T in con-
versation, we could see all we wished
even If we lacked time for meditation.
but he was obdurate. Then W. descended
from her chariot with determination in
her step, and fire in her eye, and discov-
cred the custodians of the house, two kind
reasonable women, who on hearing the
case showed us everything, to the evident
discontinue of the disagreeable man.
Now comes the strange incredible part of
the story. With grateful hearts we offered
each of those dear sisters-a shilling-it
was refused our first experience of the
kind since treading British soil. "Think
Eef us kindly they both said . tbs oil we
ask. and indeed we always shall, for we
owed them much.
A great deal of the fascination of travel
consists in giving way to the days fancy,
making plans and changing them at will,
We felt for one brief instant that three
days would give us such q aeeting glimps
of lake and mountain in northern Eng
land, that it would be wiser far to wait
until some future hoped for visit; but
when our train reached Birmingham we
cast wisdom to the winds and saying "a
half lake Is better than no lake," sped
on through more rugged phase of Eng
fish country than we had yet seen. We
shall not soon forget Queen Windermere.
her placid waters stretching far before us,
with thickly wooded shores, the near
green hills, and distant mountains rising
peak on peak, brown, purple, gray, with
soft ud-shadows. Fair Bowness with
its shady walks and quaint old houses,
allured us. and we waited over night be-
fore continuing our sail to Anbleside.
We climbed steep hills, and fairly held
our breath for fear a word or sigh might
weight too heavily a passing cloud and
give us rain, the thing we dreaded most
as spelling views; but fate was kind, and
on our drive by coach to Keswick gave us
clear sights Of Skiddaw and Helvellyn.
Occasionally a shower for several minutes
would send US denser clouds of mists ris-
ing from the valleys; then the sun would
break out gloriously on Wordsworth
stony seat and tiny doye-cote. We saw
them all-calm Rydal waters Grassmere,
80. =
famous poets.
The charm of Keswick; overlooking
Derwent waters tempted us to stay, but
Glasgow must be reached, to meet our
party, so six O'Clock found us at Carlisle
and In our railway carriage, bags slowed,
umbrellas stacked, and we in blissful I'M
consciousness of what awaited us. We
have heard of old, that fall roads lead to
Rome;" we think the modern reading
must be call roads lead to Glasgow" We
started from London by the Northwest
aern," when requested to show our tickets
at Carlisle we were told we were on the
Southwestern" train and therefore wrong.
In vain we pleaded 'does not this train
start from the same stationP By going
now we'll reach our destination at g. 80
p, m. instead of 49, but all to no pur-
pose. why madam there are seven or
eight roads from this very station to Glas-
gov, but it is impossible for me to tell
you whence yours starts or at what
time" We rose in dis1nay and for nearly
three hours made life burden and not
worth living, to those officials. w. took
the right track, E. the left; we scurried
by platforms, we hurried over bridges,
we slid through subways occasionally we
would wave the right hand of fellowship
to cheer each other on, and all the time
we questioned and feed both "great and
small. You see ma'am'' one kind
hearted porter cried--almost in despair
90 it's just this way, one time the Gale
DOMAIN road uses the track land other times
some other road, and you just can't tell
till it's signalled a minute or two before
she comes i'm What should we do, it
was physically impossible for us to be in
eight places at once, and we had decided
to abandon the chase. when one guard,
whom we had piled with coppers at in
tervals for two hours, came to the rescue,
decisively set his lantern on the ground,
and indicating a new spot, said with con-
viction, ''she starts from here" 1t was
then 91O-at midnight we reached Glas-
cow. and waiting friends, to find that
our '.box'' Ca new basket trunk) with
al its precious belongings had gone