The record-union., 1897-05-16

the cool airy outside fabric of the skirt
cut separate from it's silk, lawn or dim
ity lining. Many women, however, OBJ
ject to this method on the ground that
a skirt so made rumples and gets out
of shape far sooner than a transparent
material sewed in with each skirt
breadth of the lining This is doubt
less true, but while this is the most
serviceable way of making up a diaph-
anouS gown, it certainly loses very
much of its light and airy effect by this
arrangement.
Occasionally, on some of the newest
gowns appears the overskirt. real or
else simulated by trimming. This week
is exhibited handsome black grena-
dine made up over black MORE the
watered silk showing with peculiarly
rich effect through the meshes of the
semi transparent black material. The
bodice portion is made with short but
sharp points front and back. The
MORE underskirt is closely gored on
the front and sides, and about one third
of the length just here is left plain.
Below this, about seven inches above
the knees, a very deep Spanish flounce
OF the grenadine shirred at the top and
finished with a deep hem. is set upon
the skirt. This flounce is made of
straight breadths of the moire-lined
grenadine covering the entire under
skirt from belt to hem. The chief nov
city Of the gown is the addition of a
pointed overskirt edged with an ac
contemplated chiffon frill bordered
with narrow rows OF. MORE ribbon, that
covers the plain part of the MORE silk
skirt, and disappears at the back under
the full-pleated breadths The bodice
trimming shows a combination Of chif-
fon, black lace and elegant jet Orna-
ments put on to simulate a yoke, a bo-
Zero jacket and a Spanish girdle
II
All sorts of exquisite little neck deco
| rations Will take the place on summer
toilets of the stiff military or stock col
| lars, standing and falling ruches of
India muslin, silk canvas, lisse, chiffon,
etc, and little turnover collars and
Paquin points of white batiste and lace.
which give such a dainty touch to the
gown. One Of the latest neck trim
mings for airy gowns is band of linen
half wide. This is laid in tiny folds
with very narrow Valenciennes lace on
each edge. In the front and just at the
back are points of linen with a medal
lion embroidery in each point and lace
at the edge. Wide white organdy col
lars trimmed with lace are a finish for
French zephyr Bingham and colored
dimity dresses, and Valenciennes lace
and insertion figure largely in the deco
ration of all thin gowns for the coming
season that are made for special wear
or more ordinary uses, very fine Irish
laces and linen insertions are used,
and some of the designs in these trim
mings are exquisitely dainty and
thread-like.
The variety in bodice trimming is be-
yond any complete description, for new
ideas and combinations and deft man
ipulations Of lace, silk, velvet and rib
bon are daily appearing. Sometimes
we see the triple edges of three little
bolerO fronts set in one above the other,
and is a rule, made of three different
materials. The full soft vest is of an
other color and fabric, and perhaps
the girdle and color match neither bo-
leros nor vest On new Paris dress,
soft pink glace silk hecked with
white. is tucked across the back and
front to form a yoke. And an accodi-
duplicated frill frames the entire yoke
There are black velvet ribbon bows on
the shoulders, and a folded girdle and
collar with a bow at the back complete