davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
THE wAsTEFUL HOUSEWIFE.
Leakages I'm Household Management
That Mean LOSS of Money

The old adage that "a woman can throw
out OF the window with teaspoon more than
man can bring in on a shovel" contains
more truth than poetry. large income can
be wasted with surprising celebrity by the con-
Lnuance Of little leaks that seem too insig-
nihcant TO be noticed individually. Many a
woman is ignorantly a participant in rearing
and protecting these little foxes that spoil
the household vine partial list of some
of these little wastes is:
Wearing rubbers over new shoes. thereby
making the leather dry and hard and easily
cracked.
Pieces Of lace and ribbons thrown away
Making the sewing women wait in the
house idle or doing fancy work because you
have neglected TO get materials before her
arrival.
Buying articles because they are cheaD
and will come in handy some time
Allowing Whalebones to wear through the
waist, thereby running an elegant gown.
Wearing the same clothing each week as it
comes from the wash.
Leaving silk umbrella in a case, thereby
causing it to split in the folds
turning skirts wrong side out when hang
ing them up.
Placing brushes with the bristlas side IN
Failing to sew glove buttons on before
wearing, or mending them before cleaning
sweeping the house in the usual morning
dress with head uncovered
Pieces Of cake and bread allowed to dry
and mold then thrown away.
Failing TO dry a box of soap for several
days before using it.
Dried fruits left uncovered and consequent
ly allowed to become wormy.
Dish towels used for holders
sheets used for ironing tables.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
FASHIONS New Turp.
Slipping Shoulder Effects to Be Cultivated Now. Il

each side of the fullness In the back
are reyers widening toward the bot
tom and covered with the embroidery.
The vest and the wide draped belt OF
green Indian silk form a pretty con-
trast. Another spring costume OF
drap dete in a similar beige tint is
braided deliberately with white. Three
rows of braid trim the front seams
in the skirt, and end in an intricate de-
sign at the foot, and the bolero Is
covered with white braiding. Bra1ding
is very fashionable, especially for tailor
made gowns, and rows Of braid are
sewn on around the hips in groups OF
three, covering fully twelve inches
down from the belt
fashion which is very popular in
Paris is the checked skirt and jacket
of plain cloth to match the prevailing
color in the plaid; and the array OF
fancy checks shown among the new
materials is sufficient proof that they
will be popular here. Blue and white
check with a jacket Of plain blue, edged
with silver and blue cord, and worn
with a white skirt, makes a cookbook
ing, serviceable costume, which viii
be quite the thing for morning wear on
the first warm days of spring. Another
combination is a black and green
check, with a short, loose bOlero OF
black cloth, lined with green silk, and
cut out in tabs around the bottom, ana
a black glace silk vest finely tucked
The reYers and collar are covered with
ecru lace.
Tailor-made coats and skirts alike,
of cloth, tweed, or cheviOt, are quite as
much worn as ever, and there are no
end Of fancy waists to wear with them,
the most pronounced Of all being those
Of bright plaid silk, made up in the
shirt waist style. Most cloth skirts
are plain, with the exception Of braid
as a trimming, but an occasional one
has three tucks directly at the bottom,
or trimmed with bias satin folds.
Among the pretty models for dressy
gowns Of canvas is one of cream white,
with a bodice and sleeves of soft cream
white silk Powered in pink and a bo-
lero front Of velvet ribbon crossed in
squares. The skirt is lined with pink
silk and the belt is of black velvet.
Byzantine barege forms the next cos
tune, which is made with the fashion
able accordion plated skirt. The yoke
epaulets and sleeves are tucked in
groups, finished with small fancy but
tons up the back. The epaulets and
opening of the bodice up the side are
finished with a killed frill of mauve
chiffon, and the belt is of Nile green
satin ribbon. Pale blue and petunia
and heliotrODe and old rose are new
combinations Of color this season, which
are very effective if the right shades
are chosen, and pale green with brown
is another popular contrast. White
grenadine made over white, or a color,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

is to be very much in evidence later in
the season for dressy gowns, and one
pretty model has a One-sided bodice,
with a lace yoke, a lace frill and a
belt and bow of rose-colored velvet
where it fastens. Three rows of lace
insertion trim the skirt In black
gowns, which are always worn, there
is MORE velour, with plain skirt lined
with pink. The front of the bodice is
of embroidered black Hsse, and the
bolerO of black glace silk, covered with
black net richly jewelled with tur-
quOise, silver and jet. Pale blue vel,
vet finishes the edge of the revers, be-
ing put on in a narrow twist, trims the
collar, and lines the bows on the top
Of the sleeves.
The bodice is becoming more and more
elaborate all the time and the art of making
this tucked and trimmed and shirred COM
binatiOn a distinguished success is quite
beyong the commonplace dressmaker.
Whether the material is gathered or plated,
1t is still good style TO have the blouse effect
in front, the fullness falling a little over
the belt which may be Of any width most
becoming to the figure. design which is
pretty for any color is carried out in black
fOulard laid in plaits and fastened down by
groups Of narrow black velvet ribbon. The
front opens in very novel manner at one
side, where it is filled in with cream lace over
white and gathered quite full The belt is
of black velvet, but touch of color is given
by lining the epaulets with cerise velvet OF
silk and using it at the neck combined with
cream lace. Another waist model for
white organdie or silk muslin is trimmed with
rows of lace insertion, and yellow satin forms
the plated bolero, and is set into the slashes
of the sleeves. White silk patterned with
black forms the next bodice and the rest is
Of white net embroidered with green sequins.
The belt and collar are of green velvet, which
also lines the bolero.
TailOr-built dresses are usually the first
to blossom out in the spring. and here is a
model in a pale tint Of violet cloth. One
handsome jeweled button fastens the bolero
over a full vest of green silk. and dark vel
Vet forms the belt. Applique embroidery Of
iridescent cord on green silk forms the trim
ming on the skirt and jacket. The hat is of
ecru straw with twist Of narcissus green
Another light cloth dress boasts a coat with
black satin revers, covered with Jet gold
and reseda embroidery. The vest of reseda
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

shoulder effects are to be cultivated,
If we can believe the rumors, and it all
means that the shoulder seams in our
summer gowns are to be heightened a
little and the fullness in the sleeves
is to drOOp more toward the elbow.
The really new sleeve is tightly fit
ted, after being either shirred or
tucked, and a small puff or eqaulet
finishes the top We have not yet be-
come accustomed to this close model,
but whether we like it or not we must
have it. So far as the new models in
skirts have put in appearance, they
are distinguished for variety in cut and
decoration; but the popular bell shape,
falling in full godets at the back and
lifting closely over the hips, will not
be dropped from the list
1t Is in thin materials that the
trimmed skirt viii flourish, and as
transparent effects are to reign SD
prenle this season, trimmings will have
wide field of usefulness. Nothing
can be prettier than the new grena-
dimes which are displayed everywhere
in the shops, in all silk, all wool and
silk and wool mixed; and in coloring
and patterns there are some novel and
striking designs. Soft shades Of red,
combined with black, covering almost
entirely a white ground, and shades
Of blue or white in a large convention
al pattern, are peThap7 the most strik-
beg, md then there are ali sorts Of
bla%k effects on color, and grenadines
Yvoven to look like lace. In white and
pale cOlors there is a variety of checks
sith pin dots Of silk, or quite plain
in basket weave. like so many of the
canvas materials. Canvas, in all its
varying weayes, striped, figured and
plain. is decidedly the leading material
in wool for all sorts of plain and dressy
gowns to be worn in the early spring
and all through the summer. They
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

have quite superseded the mohairs,
which were so popular last season, and
the only kind Of mohair which is at
ali fashionable is very fine and silky
Quality. Some of the weaves in can
vas are Very open in checks or oval
spaces, and then there are crinkIed
silk stripes, clearinghouse patterns in
stripes, and the basket weave, which
is extremely pretty, besides the plain
weave Of last season. Other kinds re-
Bemble nuns yelling, are made Of finer
threads more closely woven, and have
hemstitched border over an inch wide
on both edges. Every tint and color i'm
Rginable is to be found in this material,
but pale gray, biscuit color, and vari-
Gus shades Of green are the favorite
hues.
Bareges Of the old-fashioned sort.
thin enough 10 show a CLEAN of color
through the meshes, are shown in great
variety, and Turkish crepe is another
soft, thin stuff which tempts the pur-
chaser. Crepe bengaline, a mixture of
silk and wool, is new material which
is warranted to wear and not to muss.
and yet it has a certain stiffness which
makes it stand out in pretty folds.
Crepe de chine, soft and lustrelesss and
SItONIEQ Will EAlEIllilC QOlS. Will De very
popular for summer gowns, and there
are other thin materials, bordered with
colored silk stripes, which are used es-
pecially for ruffleS. Scotch cheviots
with a cream white ground, plaided on
with line stripes of color and finished
on the edge with a four-inch border. of
plaid in several colors, are among the
novelties. Other cheviots of this order
have narrow stripes of color and they
all suggest yachting dresses; in fact.
it would be long stretch Of the i'm
imagination to fancy their use in any
other sort Of dress. Scotch cheyiot
in q plain beige color makes a very
stylish costume trimmed with an en-
broidery or braiding Of silk cord in
darker or lighter shades Of the same
color. This embroidery finishes the
edge Of the bolero and covers the skirt.
which fits closely over the hips, for
fully nine inches below the waist
around the front and sides; and down
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

where the crowns are high have the
brims rolled, some on one side only and
some on both. There are others where
the back is turned up sharply, and
some have perfectly fiat brims. The
most curious is a hat with a crown
eight inches high and a round brim
curled all the way around. This is
made of coarse black straw, and the
trimming consists of drapery and bows
of old gold colored satin ribbon of SUI
perb quality, with a fancy curled
plume, half black and half of The cCIor
shown in the ribbon.
Another cUriOusly shaped hat had
very high crown of rough, dark green
straw, with scarcely any brirn. At
each side was large rosette of smoky
gray silk null plated into chrysanthe-
mum shape. Above the rosette on
each side was plated upright fan OF
the same. 1t was a very delicate eff
feet, obtained with very little material
Che nat mad the front Of the brim slight
ly tilted in front, and raised I'D much
higher than the crown in the back
A bakers dozen Of loops of cadet blue
gros grain were placed all around the
back Of the hat, and a band of it sur
rounded the crown The hat was a
rich, dark blue straw.
The straw hats shown until now have
all been Of coarse braid. Much of it
Is IN two colors, or even four are some
times mingled. One taking little toque
had the crown of yellow. green and
black checked straw. There was q
front Of folded nut brown velvet, with
one pert little bow of the same over the
left side. On each side of the toque
were great punches of primroses In
natural colOrs, part Of them standing
upright in a fashion quite remarkable
for flowers of that kind Still it was
necessary that they should stand high
to carry out the idea of the milliner
A girl with brown eyes would look
too lovely to ever forget in such a
tOque. A still prettier hat was of bright
blue rough straw, with a low crown
This was surrounded by crushed loops
of ivory white gros grain ribbon, with
daisies and yellow buttercups twined
in and out among the loops. On each
side there were tufts of black cocks
plumes curled sharply. For those who
do not care for flowers so early in the
season there is a pretty fiat hat with
the front of the brim straight and the
back curling up in Louis XI. shape.
The crown is but rudimentary. The
straw is of fine Milan braid to the edge.
where it changes to a basket like pat
tern. It is In dark green. A plating Of
doubled green gros grain silk is carried
around the crown. On the left side
there Is a bronze green wing with a
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

the costume whenever a dazzling effect is
required.
In accordance with the fashionable ten
dency are mirrors in Louis XVI. frames or
namented with miniatures
Reeded glass jugs with silver lip and cover
are used for claret
Silver lamps designed to serve as corner
pieces on the dinner table are made after
an old French pattern and stand on two
feet.
Seal rings for women come in varieties of
b!oodstone, jasper, onyx etc.
Chocolate spoons with DECORATED Dresden
handles have silver gilt bowls -.- "
Among popular sets, in cases are the
child's spoon, knife. fork and napkin ring
Fascinating beasts are represented in cork
screw handles which employ in their making
stag, boar and rhinOcerous tusks, and gazeIle
and deers' feet.
There are ornaments in diamonds and tur-
quoises which can be worn as a brooch,
pendant or hair ornament. aE 81
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

blue, black. straw and checks. One
black Milan brand was rolled on the
left side, and at the edge of the hair
there was a bunch Of velvet pansies.
The trimming around the crown con-
sisted Of crushed velvet looping in deep
plum. A few curled heron plumes. a
couple Of black ostrich tips curled
down over the brirn, few sharp little
black wings and a fancy steel half
moon made a most beautiful hat. A
garnet straw with wide brim and high
crown was another new one. The brlm
turned up high in the back, where it
sustained three large black empire
tips. Around the crown and up the
right side at the back was a friH Of fine
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
NEW THINGS IN JEwELRY STORES.
Silver Lamps and Reeded Glass
CIaret jugs Are Seen

Bow knots OF gold, enrit he'd with gems
are suitable ornaments for lie Marie Antoi-
nette couture. says the jewelers. Circular.
crystal marmalade pots, resting on silver
trays, please the eye.
A rabbits foot, mounted in gold is evil
IDENTIFY popular charm with both sexes.
The wearing OF imitation and semi-pre-
clous jewels is no longer a social crime:
these are freely tolerated in the fashionable
world. Especially is this true Of Roman
pearls, which figure in many necklaces in
company with real diamonds.
The silver chatting dish has been introduced
at the formal dinner and has consequently
increased IN importance
The most popular bracelet is flexible being
in gold chain pattern, with gems set in at
intervals.
Enamel work in the Byzantine style is
used for a variety Of purposes, such as
frames for photographs, handles TO paper
knives, etc.
Pie dishes show antique silver mounts and
china Innings.
The present style in woman's dress de-
mands gorgeous effects, hence the buttons
buckles and other ornaments set with fancy
stones.
Hand engraved trays with pierced borders
are in demand, and come in several sizes
The fashionable woman's collection of
jewels includes in addition to the important
gem collars, tiaras and shoulder pieces, an
assortment Of lesser ornaments mounted as
clasp pin and IN form of stars, crescents
sprays and the like. These are fastened on
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

Ialnuness and peTishability seem to be the
characteristics most sought after in he'd
spreads that bear the mystic stamp i'm
ported" The latest and perhaps the most
iran IS made of fine French swiss over pale
colored silk. pink. blue or yellow fn{sbed
with deep frill about the edge. and with
insertion or honiton lace in delicate pattern
above.
As IN the case with all the best household
furnishings, whether for the table or the
bed, its beauty is made to depend rather
upon exquisite fneness OF material and per-
fecton OF finish than upon elaboration. Sim
plicity is considered essential to true Gle
ganee, but, alas, it is the simplicity that
means greater outlay than do the more ornate
designs. II is only the wealthy who can af-
ford to hide their fine wares, and these
lovely spreads are no exception to the rule
Their lining must be Of the best, and their
simplicity is only a cloak for a more gen
erous expenditure than would be required
for many a more snowy covering.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

Napkins used for dish towels
Towels used for wash rags.
The face Of fiat irons used to crack nuts on
Cold potatoes allowed to sour
Sour milk thrown away.
The kerosene can left open to eyapOrate
Cold fish thrown away.
Cheese permitted TO mold.
Lemons left TO dry.
Fat put in earthen Dishes
The mustard cruise remaining open to dry.
Canned goods left exposed in cans.
Bread pan left with dough sticking to it.
Leftover vegetables thrown away.
Rice and sugar wasted in the handling
Too much starch made and thrown out
Pals and washtubs left dry to fall to
pieces.
Silver spoons and forks used in the kitchen.
Tin dishes improperly dried when washed
Mops and brOoms not hung UP.
Tea and coffee pots neglected.
Corks left out Of vinegar and moIasses Jugs
Preserves opened, forgotten and left to sour
Soap left in dish pans TO dissolve and waste
Orange peel thrown away (save them for
kindling).
Bits of meat thrown away
Carpet brOoms used to scrub with
Throwing away tea leaves (save them for
sweeping dark carpets: coarse table salt
should be used fer light carpetsl.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
NORMANDY BONNET.
A Lenten Fancy of Unusual sChara c.
ter end Beauty.

Lenten chapeaux for 1897 are Of an entirely
distinct type. There is not brilliant flower
or a sweeping feather. or a dropping brm
among them. They are all small. demure in
design and modest in color. But they are ex-
cellently suited. TO the Puritanical costumes
with which they are worn.
The typical chapeau of the present Lent
is the Normandy bonnet This is closely
modelled Upon the Keadgear actually worn
by the picturesque peasants OF Normandy
and is one of the few articles Of peasant attire
winch can bear transplanting. 1t is a most
becoming little bonnet, though it is always
Of unrelieved simplicity. 1t is made Of shirred
silk, usually of a soft gray in color and its
only trimming is a bow of white at the front
Sometimes it is fastened under the chin by
strlngs, also OF white, this fashion forming
the most charming Of frames for a pretty
face.
Another shape considered particularly ap-
propTiate to Lent is that of a toque with a
tiny brim, the crown and brim being q solid
mass Of dark purple violets and the proper
effect of height being given by a group of
hu1y plumes at the side. Niolets are the
only flower that is used in Lenten millinery
a fact which makes this popular flower more
than ever in evidence Tiny black hats are
considered particularly chic this year and
they are made in endless variety TO suit the
styles OF the more or less churchy young
women who have abandoned more pretentious
millinery. DoVe-gray velvet is another ma
terial which has gone to form some of the
most charming Of Lenten toques.
This fashionable preponderance of sober col
ors might suggest that every other woman
one meets has gone into mourning were it
not for pretty device conceived BY certain
clever millnerS. This is the Introduction NJ
a more or less plentiful quantity of white
into the scheme Of every hat or bonnet A very
becoming little hat recently ordered by one
OF the best known young society women in
New York was Of an exquisite shade IF violet
velvet. Its brfm was faced with full shirring
OF mousseline de sole and the same material
was laid In plaits about the crown and gath
E~Ed inv HY,ec-
was supported by a pretty little ostrich plume
White trimming of this particularly delicate
sort is not calculated to resist very many
attacks OF violent weather, but the young
woman who wears it is quite sure that ii is
sufhclently durable to meet the modest de-
mands which she will make upon it,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

This will be a season of conflicting
fashions if the historical revival Of
dress in the victorian style" is
brought about in accordance with the
predictions Of the authorities in Lon
don, but as Paris the hub of all things
fashionable, still takes the lead in mat
tiers Of the mode. we may be sure that
if ever the pages Of time are turned
backward to the ugly skirts and slop-
Eng shoulders it will be a long, grad
ual and laborious process. Women
have learned much about the artistic
effect of dress, and will not adopt I'M
becoming styles with the submissive
grace Of sixty years ago.
However much we may rebel, sloping
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
Ms, LACES. NECKWEAR FANCY GOODS AND MEMS furnish
FASHIONS OF NEW YORK
Survey of the New Hats and BOnnets for Easter

Special Correspondence of the Globe
NEW YORK, March n.-When enc
looks at the straw hats as they are
taken from their cases, griltless of
trimming, one cannot by any stretch
of the imagination think that they ever
could be made pretty. But the kindly
touch Of the deft fingers Of the MILL
ners soon transform them into things
Of beauty and joys as long as their
freshness lasts. The straw shapes are
undeniably ugly, and many Of them ere
simple ''plateaus7 without form and
void. The high bell crown is repro
duced in them. and many shapes Of
brims are presented. Most of the hats
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14

yellow paradise tail. A pale pink coral
ornament is put on the right side and
little bunch of rich lace at the back
just under the brim.
Alpine walking hats in light and
dark felt will be worn TO a great ex-
tent this spring. They have the crown
rounded oftener than crushed in the
center. With tailor-made gowns these
gowns are peculiarly suitable They
may be strictly severe, or they may be
quite ornamental. One of a deep pearl
gray felt had a hehotrope velvet band.
On the right side there was a bunch
Of black quilts, held by little bow Of
coral velvet
The straw hats are in garnet, hell
Otrope, green in several shades, brown,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
Books In the Guest Room.

In preparing a room for a guest. if only
for few days. do not neglect to place a
variety Of books at his or her disposal If
there Is no book shelf in the room, books and
magazines should be placed ION a low table
near the window and care should be taken
TO have the books bright and readable and
the magazines new, and all the better for be-
ing uncut. Many visitor has gone through
tortured, sleepless nights in a strange house
with not line Of reading matter to be got
teR at.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-14
Almond Pudding,

Required-Two pounds of sweet almonds or
or pounded almonds, which are sold in tins,
three bitter almonds. one-quarter Of pint
OF mix, one-hah pound Of mashed potatoes,
one-quarter pound Of butter, three eggs, rind
and juice Of lemon. MethodSBlanch and
pound the almonds. beat them n the milk,
mix in the mashed potatoes butter. eggs, and
lemon rind and Juice. Beat all together and
bake for half an hour in a|Ngreassd pie dish