Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-11-13
CoxLARx AND CRAvArs.


The Proper TAinx FOR MEMS Wear the
Coming iNNintef.
From Harper's Ba1ar.
The taste of MANY Otherwise well-dressed
men seems to fail them utterly when 1t
comes to solving,the question Of collars and
cravats. We daily SEE mon who. to all ap-
pearances, have taken great pains to look
wen wearing collars fof the most hideous
shapes. and ties an ugiiness that fairly
sets ones teeth on edge. One wonders
sometimes how senaible men could bring
themselves to buy the awful combinations
Of color and shape that they wear about
their necks. Perhaps 1t Is because they
have no definite idea Of what will suit
them. and, when they make their pur-
chases, allow a salesman to give them what
he thinks Is the fashion,
The other day I stopped In at a haber-
dasher's with j friend. and the clerk show
ed US, with great pride, what he called the
latest thing that was very fashionable
and assured us that everybody was wear
ing 1t. We thought we had seen some Of
them wearing just such things, and we
asked to be shown something else. IT. is
more question of good taste than Of fash
ion.
In regard to collars. one has quite a vari-
ETY. of shapes from which to choose lust at
present. The collar with the points turned
over like wings seems to be regaining some
of its old popularity. It should be moder-
ately high. and the points. not too large
should be turned over squarely. as IL it
were straight standing collar with the
points ironed back. This is a very good
shape for general wear. It is comfortable
looks we'll and Is suitable on almost all oc-
casions
Then. especially for young men. there ia a
straight standing collar we-h the edges Just
meeting. This should be high in 'front.' two
and half inches or a little more, and the
points should not be bent so as to spoke"
out. Another collar of about the same
height and shape, but with straight edges
that lap over about quarter of an inch
IN 'front.' is perhaps the most popular Of all
standing collars. 1t looks very well esne-
cially with evening dress. Either one Of
these straight standing collars should be
worn in the evening or in the afternoon
with a frock coat.
OF the turned-over collars there are two
that are worn a good deal at present. Both
should be high all around, above two
inches. One of them has edges that lust
meet tn front. the outer and the inner edges
being cut even from the top to where the
collar buttons, leaving very narrow space
open at the throat. The other is a collar of
equal height, but where it buttons in front
there Is wide flap that tucks in under the
opposite edge, completely covering the
throat, and leaving a space Of about half
an inch between the turned-over parts in
front. Neither of these should be worn on
dress or formal occasions.
A suggestion that applies to all collars
might be made. and that is that they
should fit the neck snugly. A badly fitting
shirt is often responsible for an ill-fitting
collar All shirts should be cut quite high
In front. II shirt is cut too low it pulls
the collar down in front and causes the
back to press against the neck, throwing
the head forward tn most uncomfortable
way. si4t
AS for ties. of course they are all to be
yNao rar No
nan ever wears made-up tie In shape
there are the Ascot, the straight bow, the
butterfly bow and the four-in-hand The
Ascot tie is made IN dark shades, black or
dark blue principally. with a small figure
In some brighter color. plain black satin
Ascot Is a very god tie to have 1t NAV be
worn with either morning or afternoon
dress With flock coat for a morning
wedding or other rather formal function a
white silk Ascot is probably the most be
coming tie one dan wear. This, however
should never be worn to business 1t does
not look well with anything but a frock or
q cutaway coat, and. at business ties of
some dark color are always more appropri-
ate and in mucM better taste. The four
fn-hand, of the same ma terials and shades
as the Ascot, isInow made very long and
narrow. 70
With the turnaa-over collars such as de-
scribed above, the best ities-te wear are the
straight and the butterfly bows In fact,
they are the only tiesB that fit these collars
Wei. The others are too bulky These
bow ties are all cut quite narrow, and the
DOW is much smaller than it has been
heretofore. They are made in lengths to
suit the size of collar one wears, and in
buying them zone should always see that he
gets the proper length for his size
With formal evening dress nothing but
white lawn bow Is permissible On the
other hand, with the informal dinner coat
black satin bow is always worn and
white is never permitted These, like the
other bows, are narrower and smaller than
have been worn.