New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-03-14

LATEST HINTS FROM PARIS.
THE GREAT POPULARITY OF JACKETS
FOR SPRING WEAR.


Paris March g. 1891
Jacket. seem always to be popular IN the splns.
They do not blow about as a. short cape Oh ien.
weight is prone to do. and the same ht'eu s'' No.
worn over a cloth gown In March ana -Ap.,' "
useful later with a summer frock. There VIII DO
undoubtedly more than the usual numper OF 'heo
,rIp rarments worn the coming season. TOT ING
modiste woman is now quito Independent Oh hep ~
regard 10 tucking away her sleeves lhero a'o Nv"
girls so good-natured as to enjoy helping aho s,,
cir. on with her jacket, and propapiy 10 o'io ~
,,rret the non-exs,ence OF the necessity ior Sucn
,,ca ,,,,.ss I, &c some enamoured cavalier who
has become an expert in the duties OF mooern
knight .-rc
SMART NEW JACKETS.
TIL. nav Jackets are smart. many Of them very
elaborate and there are great many mooeis from
~hich TO choose Black cloth Jackets with waist
coats OF colored cloth or fancy SILK are popular
and ultra-chic and sufficiently dressy Tor almost
any occasion 1t Is doubtful II we snail see any.
thing more OF the sacque shape or even the oe''eo
. blouse Jacket certainly not OF coth, ana even INC
loose front Is not as well hked as Is me en'ii0''
o.,oa Garment recent Redfern model Is snort
o,sr the hips with side and back seams BRAIDED
and slashed to the Waist line. The
front follows the figure and Is fastened oy oi"u
frogs arranged one side. An odd erect Is give"
~ another fitted Jacket by cluster OF pieats SGT
into the back seam. Watteau fashion Beginning
with the choker-for the peats run up the collar
there are straps of trplming that hold the ioose
folds in place halfway 10 the waist line Muoi-
trimmed cape-like breelles are seem ana oeep COL
lars made like the waistcoat, or another coor UT
material add pretty touch to severe garment
Some places especially the English houses snow
models with almost coat sleeves. These sleeves are
.o much smaller than the dress-seeves worn that
separate bodice made TO be used under this par
ticular jacket. would seem TO be necessary But
these are exceptions, for the average garment is
cut 10 allow Of any sleeve being worn comfortably
fhaX
elaborate and need some amount OF space the
tsilors say that q great deal depends on the way
the sleeve Is cut and fashioned, and that one which
appears TO be comparatively small may slip COM
foriaby one apparently larger
Smart" is the adjective best descriptive OF
Jacket and it is doubtful If it can be made eao-
crate without losing its distinction The ten
dency this spring seems 10 be to do away with all
capes and coils except those designed to pc worn
as part OF an extravagan,ly elaborate toilette For
ordinary the Jacket will be the proper thing dur
ing the spring days.
THE "TAILOR-MADE."
The spring is really the season OF the tailor
made" for there is the cloth gown to be consid-
cred which must be quite fresh and set up In a
workmanlike manner 10 be worn the street
minus any outside covering. A handsome wrap may
cover any multitude of sins during the winter and
has possibilities in the way Of economy when one
considers the well-htted skirts tina. turned out
by hundreds IN the Dig shops. Accepting uio iaO'
that there IS distinction In ready-made gar
ment there is certainly a great amour. Of COM
fort and little money expended in the purchasing OF
f. Can any one explain why we must stand for
hours In tho tryng-on room OF fashionab.e DRESS
maker with two assistants pinning up and letting
down and rechangng skirt. feeling conscious all
the while that our hips don't match, when we may
choose skirt in five minutes from pile OF ready
made" and almost walk of in 1t?
What wonderful patterns and skilled cutters
those shops must possess But originality Is not
among their merits. and they fit all bodices on the
same ready-made principle of their skirts. winch
does not seem TO work well.
In shop controls any exclusive or very
artistic line Of goods. For some reason. the manu-
facturers all these for the private places,
and it is TO these hgh-priced emporums that one
must turn for at least the spring suit
A PRUNE-COLORED BROADCLOTH.
walking suit, which. while it has particu-
larly novel features is attractive and suited to
many PURPOSES Is built Of prune-colored CLOTH a
color particularly pretty in the sansurfaced
broadcloths. The skirt has seven deep circular
tucks the lower about eight inches from the
hem and five more above the hips. The top Of
the sleeves are tucked. The choker and straight
yoke are covered with ecru lace. The lace is fat
over the yoke. but arranged as scarf about the
choker. with q knot on one side, from which falls
long, ruffied scarf of lace. Four more tucks are
fashioned below the yoke The rest Of the bodice
is fitted and closed on one side with four fancy
buttons. There is no belt. the waist being cut in
1t can hardly be said that we have survived
braidng, and if there not. many other
forms OF trimming in vogue now IL would seem 10
be quite conspicuous as II was year ago.
o o e s s Of BACK 2l making
deep psns sb Ths Jacket sS6Ge Of s ea
cloth fastened with small gold buttons.
SMALL CHECKS POPULAR.
Small checks rival the smooth-face cloths. and
have the advantage Of novelty and requiring little
trimming These checked stuns favored by the
tailors cloth. not wool. for wool with Its
looser. softer weaving is not practical for their
models. .
There is something very smart in a. suit OF
checked cloth In huntsmans green and black OF
dark RED snd 6aGh sna c sny are generally made
Carnival time has Commenced at Nice and is near
Snfashionable event, and no one bothers about q
dress on the CONTRARY along ,Es the Rvera Kns
festivities Of the season and ncIaentsly for the
and early vegetables. Paris is one big dressmakine
Of That snsr rss0r d
Indeed. If 1t were not for Nice the couturieres
they might s % close aorns se} "a S
pushed more and more into the spring. after the
London custom
BEST TIME IN WHICH TO SHOP.
February and March 10 really the best time Of
the year In which to shop in Paris. and visitors
who only know 1t during tho summer months
would be astonished not only at the things dis
played. but ct the bargains to be obtained.
Lingerie II always cheap and nice in France; In
TACT, It IL the one thing above all others with
which the home-returnng traveller should paci
her trunks In midwnter there always bargain
aales Well-ntting chemises. trimmed tastefully
with Imitation lace. sold for 60 to 70 cents, anc
linen ones. hand en-. embroidered rather coarse 1t +
batiste trimmed with one row OF real Valen