The record-union., 1897-06-06

Grass lawn seems to have taken a
new lease of life and bids fair to be-
come a greater favorite even than 1t
proved last summer. 1t appears IN
so many beautiful effects that it is GER
tainly hard to pass. by in making a Sc
lection of summer textiles. Fine sheer
grass lawn is to be worn over daintily
coIored glace silks, many of which are
first accordion-pleated.
Although dressmakers and tailors
have condemned the blouse-waist and
all the varieties of separate fancy
bodices that in a great degree save the
expense of a number of complete toll
cts, still it contrives to flourish and to
really gain by its condemnation. 1t
may be ostracized by certain fashion
able ateliers, but it certainly has not
disappeared from the ranks of fash
ion, for at recent high-class exhibits it
was one of the very attractive feat
ures of the elegant and wonderful dis
play of summer garments. Fitted,
draped, SHRED, frilled, and accordion
pleated waists in silk, lace, net, mus
lin, chiffon and brocade were various
" shown. The blouse bodice once
chiefly recommended for its economy is
now q costly and ornate cOnfection.
Formerly it was merely and strictly
used for negligee costumes; then it ap-
peared at all fashionable evening func-
lions, made of the most expensive tex
tiles; and granted that its vogue in this
particular domain will now be short,
and that the waist has really become
too generally worn to be elected for any
longer by the very fastidiOus, still its
trimness, usefulness, freshness, and
adaptability will prevent it from going
wholly out of vogue. Ultra-fashiona-
BILE women may possibly abandon it
this summer, but for cool, dainty wear
in the evening, made of airy fabrics,
for neat and comfortable uses under
the jacket of a travelling costume, for
cycling, boating, golf, tennis, and in
deed for all simple everyday require
ments, we know of no garment that can
possibly take its place in all the end
less list of appropriate, chic, and pref
ty adornings for the daughters of men.
The designers of the latest French
pelerines, fichus, and yoked shoulder
capes show a decided partially for lace
instead of chiffon or mousseline de sole
IN the decorations of these dainty gar
ments.
A wild craze has set in among the
ultra-fashionable for materials heat
pressed in the manner known as SUM-
pleating, accordion killing, ETC. To
quote from a famous French fashion
designer: Every woman who respects
herself must wear the radical pleating
in some form or other This mode OF
manipulating goods both thin and
weighty extends to whole costumes,
waists, capes, frills, collarettes, hats,
fichus, ETC., and in Paris much of the
newest expensive underwear is killed or
accordion-pleated. Some of the fresh
summer toilets so arranged are GER
tainly very charming, but the straight
folds easily mar when one is obliged
to sit upon them, and this is a great
disadvantage to the fashion, but it is
greatly obviated by sash draperies al
the back, and not a few of the pleated
skirts are now half covered by the ov-
erdress, which seems to be persistently
making its way among approved sum-
mer styles. A ribbon belt passed
through a handsome oblong buckle at
the back of the figure, the ribbons tied
either at the side or in front in a
smart-looking Empire bow, is still the
popular finish to the waist of demi-
dress gowns. The most usual method
of tying the ribbon is to form some
what long loops standing upwards, with
corresponding loops below the waist.
These look better when slightly irreg-
ular in length Attention to such de-
tails may appear unnecessary, but in
reality they are not unimportant. Much
more depends on trif1es of this sort in
the general effect of a gown than might
be supposed. 1t is the Frenchwom-
ans attention to the minor details of
her toilet, however trifing, that has
endowed her countrywomen with the
well-merited reputation of being the
beSt-dressed women in the world Be
she parlor maid or marquise, it is all
the same. Alike they are as perfectly
and charmingly dressed as their sew
eral circumstances will allow them to
be.
On some of the French accordion
pleated skirts narrow pleated-frills are
arranged. One skirt with a plain silk
foundation is trimmed with no less
than thirteen pleated frills and the
skirt stood out in a manner decidedly
suggestive of crinoline.
The handsome English serges and
mohair in fine all-wool are still the
best and most appropriate selections
for neat stylish gowns for travelling and
for morning wear on cool days out of
town. A narrow belt and a silver
buckle, an open jacket, and vest or
shirt waist complete more than two
thirds of the costumes of this deserip-
ton. The rest are made with boleros
or Norfolk waists. and seven gored
skirt completes the suit. For the girl
who elects for simple styles, the open
tailor-made jacket bodice, double
breasted pique vest, and courtyard I'M
trimmed skirt are selected as being
close to the regulation masculine sever
ity Of style deemed essential to the
smart utility gowning of the stylish
naidens of the summer of 81.
No one can dispute the fact that the