The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-01-04
OVER TIE TEACyPS.
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q 4iie@hitci uSScSllsS u nOiCay gifts
with the various pieces tied with baby
ribbon or inclosed in fancy cases.
II seems almost impossible to discuss
anything new in this line, yet the one
combination of linen, embroidery and
lace is apparently capable of many
changes. Embroidery is particularly
to the fore in these novelties. and con-
sists Of the most delicate tracery of
vine of flower patterns, edging a row
| of tuckin ing or entre-deux or following
the scallop of q ruffle. To be more eff
fective the embroidery has dots or
lines of color worked in it. blue, rose
or even black, when bizarre effect
is desired. The use of lace figures is
the prettiest thing in the new under
wear, and tiny lace entre-deuX ar
/ ranged in a scroll pattern and bordered
/ by line of hand embroidery is a
dainty trimming on the ruffle of a
/ chemise.
Sometimes the lace, or rather q pat
tern in lace, is apparently appliqued
on the fine linen. and the hem OF a
chenise may have clusters of lace
! flowers surrounded by embroidered
/ wreaths.
The fashion of trimming the bottom
! of chemise, although not new. has
! never been so common as now. Even
ready-made garments shown in a
few exclusive shops have a ruffie about
/ the hem and even an extra breadth
of cloth shirred or tucked into the
waist behind to allow of sufficient full
ness to make the chemise serve duty
as corset cover and short petticoat
9 @ g
Among novel cuts is a chemise that
has a yoke fastening with gold studs
to the neck. Remove the two upper
studs and the sides turn over in lapels
for loW-necked costume. The idea
Vpa airing a hisTh undevcya nm emf n
a street gown is no longer novelty;
the carefully gowned woman either
has high chemises or corset covers or
the tiny null scarfs that pass under
the arms. cover the neck and shoulders
and cross over the bust in such cob
web folds that they are never felt.
These are generally worn in addition
| TO cbemise or corset cover.
For midwinter a short petticoat of
soft flannel may be worn under the
more important jupon. This is of white
or some delicate shade and embroid
cred or lace trimmed. A simpler
manner is to line the long petticoat
with a lightweight flannel. and some
times the flannel only forms on inter
lining over q covering of thin silk that
does not cling about the figure in
walking. as flannel does
The long jupOn is as important to
the PariSienne as is her gown. even
more important for the FrenchWOman
on the street while walking would pre-
fer to lift shabby skirt over a smart
underskirt. TO raising an elaborate
gown over a shabby petticoat.
The long jupon is quite rs much a
garment TO be displayed as the gown
itself, and the mondaine who dresses
simply to suit her taste has a stock
of jupons that she may choose one to
Sllir the costume Sba & wearing
The daintily, or shall we say WELL
dressed woman often changes her cor
set when she takes off her tailor
made" for an Ella borate afternoon
gown, or, if not then it is a rare in
stance when the street corset answers
the purpose for the evening. With the
average figure the best evening corset
is an extremely low one, especially
il the decolletage worn be cut in the
"Straight-acroSs-S shoulder" manner in
vogue now. II is the prettiest possible
cut for a plump figure and for dainty
but Well-covered shoulders it is adOr-
able; for the first q low-cut corset is
a necessity. while for the second no
corset at al is often prefera BILE to
bad one. The average low corset IS
built of few AMI slender bones, and the
belle with a full figure that demands a
well-defined waistline naturally COM
plains.
e, o @
Useful chemises to be worn with
decolette gown have no shoulder straps.
They may fasten over the shoulder by
band and bow of ribbon, or may be
arranged with a running string that
passes under the arms and holds the
garment in place over the bust.
g g .,
In nightgowns one sees a number OF
models cut with rounded or square
neck. fastening over the shoulder or
down one side. Some of these gowns
are rather severe. with deep sailor col
lar meeting the sides Of the front yoke.
Almost any recent trosseau includes
a liberal number of white skirts made
of the finest batiste and deliberately
trimmed. 1t is a touch of geutility TO
wear these skirts in the house; their
appearance on the street is a mode not
generally recognized.
Silk underwear. has apparently APP
peared again. but in place of lace
broidery done on sheer lawn and edged
with narrow lace.
a garment robe de mutt or chemise, /
trimmed with embroidery and lace !
edged ruffles of white lawn, has a
dainty effect, although it is doubtful /
if silk underwear ever attains the pop
ularity it had a few years ago.
From lingerie it is natural to step
to teagoWns and charming model in !
this direction is worth describing. The /
gown is of green hrocade, with lines of !
silver in the silk, and the front of the |
skirt opens over a petticOat of green
satin, striped with entre-deuX of yellow /
lace The satin is finely shirred be- /
tween the insertions of lace. and this /
shirring. with the entre-deux makes a /
short yoke about the hips and forms !
the front of the blouse bodice About
the waist passes a scarf of ceriSe silk. ,
crossing in the back and passing un- /
der the arms TO the bust, where the /
two ends pass through Strauss /
buckle and hang down on the skirts !
This gown is entirely fitted: ii is only !
the materials used and the long scarf /
ends that suggest the teagown.
The festive frocks of our little ones |
are dainty affairs, indeed, consisting
Of French nainscok, delicate 1aces and |
fine handstitched tucks. Nearly all
the little dresses have yokes either [
pointed or plain, round. square, deep
Or short. and the little full sleeves
daintily finished at the hand with tiny
and fairy frills are set in
1uite full at the shoulder. Many of
the little party dresses for the holidays
are those of the sheerest. filmiest lawn,
limity and nainsook exquisitely
with finest lace and finished
,ff with bows and loops of softest rib