davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

cloth bolero embroidered all over with
narrow silk braid, a high braided col
lar cut in battlement squares, and a
jabot of fine creamy lace falling over
the vest. The skirt and sleeves are
braided, and frills of lace fall over the
hands. Wide collars and revers of
white satin, covered with lace, and vel
vet belts, embroidered with gold, are
seen on the cloth gowns. There are
several different styles of collars for
the tailor coats. One is a sort of Medici,
cut out in squares on the edge and
trimmed around with braid. A close
fitting Zouaye,- cut in squares or slant
ing points on the front edges. Is a
very popular style for cloth, and some
heavily braided.
Among the very dressy tailor gowns
is one of heliotrope cloth, shown in the
illustration. The cuirass bodice Of
white cloth is deliberately braided with
black and gold. The frill at one side
is Of black killed chiffon. and the
vest, collar, and belt are Of turquoise
handsomely trimmed with braid. This
style Of bodice is decidedly new. An
other very new model has the yoke
skirt with plated panels Of white silk
set in either side of the front. The
material is drab Venetian cloth, and
Lie DluuluS uldtCuGS IL III COlOr. Inc
bolero effect Is carried out in white
silk. A simple gown in dark blue soft
serge shows g. crayat and vest Of
stamped Roman satin. The bodice is
tucked on either side Of the vest in
two groups and again on the sleeves.
and the skirt is laid In tucks around
the hips. Three bands OF braid edged
with gold cord and fastened with gold
buttons form the belt. Another gown Of
covert cloth shows new skirt trim
ming of braid pointing down to the
center of the front, much higher in the
back, and either edge Of this band is
outlined with narrow black velvet rib
bon with g. trefoil design at the cor
ners. The street jacket swings out
from the figure a little, is trimmed
with braid, and frill Of Maltese lace
conceals the opening. Turquoise blue
velvet forms the belt and collar. The
plated bolero jacket is very becoming
to slight figures. and epaulette frills
Of cloth are a pretty addition with
braiding on the edge to match the
jacket.
A dressy coat bodice OF petunia cloth
worn with plain skirt has braided
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
AMERICAS FIRST WOMAN SOLDIER.
Deborah Sampson Fought Side by
Side With Men In the Revolutions

Deborah Sampson Fought Side by
Side With Men In the Revolutions
airy War.
Deborah Sampson, known to fame as
the only woman who served in the
Revolutionary army, always has been
an attractive figure in the history OF
that period, says the Boston Evening
Transcript. 1t Is interesting to read
of that brave character, but much more
so to hear an account Of her life from
| the lips of one Of her direct descen-
dants, which was the pleasure given to
a company in Memorial hall, Charles
town, yesterday afternoon. It was the
regular meeting of Bunker Hill Chap
ter, Daughters of the American Reyo-
luton, at which the regent, Miss M.
H. BraZier, presided.
Mrs. Susie A. Jackson, Of Boston, was
the speaker, and. she related facts COM
/ piled from Deborah SIMPSONS own
| statements to one Of her kin and the
records of the United States pension
| office, all of which are Enthusiastically
authentic. Deborah was the twelfth of
a family of thirteen children and was
| directly descended from Gov. William
| Bradford. She was born on Dec. II,
1850. She had no early advantages, but
| by study was able to teach school in
Middleboro. She went to the house Of
| Mr. Leonard there ana possessed ner-
self Of clothing and prepared to enlist
| with a privateer, but abandoned her
| design on learning Of the captains
cruelty. At Bellingham she enlisted as
a Continental soldier from the town Of
i Txbridge under the name Of Robert
i Shirtliffe. Near the end Of. April, 1881,
/ she was mustered into service In Wor-
i cester, and marched with other recruits
4 to West Point.
She was placed in Capt. Webb's COM
| pany of light infantry, Col. Shepard
regiment and Gen. Patterson's brigade.
During the engagements that followed
she suffered less from fear than from
fatigue She shared in all the hard
| ships as well as the glories Of York
| town, labored in the trenches, and, In
| fact, her military career was full OF
| adventures, but she bore herself with
firmness, resolution, and patient en-
durance, which are often thought to
/ belong exclusively to the stronger sex.
| Mrs. Jackson described the several
wounds the brave woman received, and
spoke of the testimonials given her for
| faithful duty and exemplary conduct
from her leaders. On returning home,
| her sex having been, discovered, she
| resumed the customary apparel Of her
| sex. She died in Sharon on April II,
| 1927, aged 81 years. "It may truly be
| said that no parallel to Deborah Samp-
| son is to be found in the annals of any
nation said Mrs. jackson in closing.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
Black Silk Null
RufHes Continue in
Popularity.

and Jackets are all fashionable The
most OF them have little ornament.
but others are loaded with gold braid
and pendent frogs and other gilt con-
trivances. They look well on some
people, but not on all. The heavy
ready to'apply looks better and is suit
able for any wooden dress, while the
gold is not.
IL saw such q pretty frock for a
young lady today. It was Of cream
colored challie with delicate figuring,
representing punches Of pinkish lilacs.
The skirt was gathered at the waist
and hung straight to the bottom with
out cores. At the bottom were two mar
row bias ruff1es of the same, simply
hemmed. The waist was laid in q
surplice. leaving v shape at the
neck. It belted in with a pale pur-
pie velvet belt, with a gold buckle. 1t
was very girlish and pretty.if trifle
old fashioned. These old fashions are
new ones now.
A gown Of black grosgrain was laid
in three-inch bias folds the whole
length of the skirt. These might be
taken for narrow fiounces. but are sim
ply folds. They are decidedly ugly, but
also very novel. The waist was gather
ed in French fashion in the back. One
side Of the front was laid in folds to the
belt from the shoulder. The other side
had six bias folds, like those in the
skirt. The tight sleeves had high puffed
caps The waist and sleeves were of
black MORE.
Though printed, striped, plaid and
brocaded silks are all among the fash
ionable ones there are still many hand
some new gowns made Of plain and
figured black grosgrain, armure, peau
de sole and MORE, and there are many
black satin skirts. There Is a new
quality of black grosgrain called cache
mire. This is soft and exceedingly
1ustrous and I believe will wear well.
Black MORE velour Is also very popu-
lar for skirts to wear with fancy waists.
Foulards are unusually pretty. One
pattern I saw was a rich chestnut
brown with clusters of green dots.
Plain surahs are much liked for shirt
waists, and, generally speaking, they
are prettier for that purpose than the
figured sorts.
The Mexican linens, the hammock
nets, the Egyptian cottons and the
CLEANLINESS, as well as the corded gaines
and iridescent tinsel cloths, are all
among the seasons novelties and are
very well liked. Among the woods. the
nuns serge, surah serge, Jacquard
weaves, lezards, brilliant broche mo-
hairs, all wool checks, cheviots, tweeds
and coverts appear to be most in de-
mand. The fine cloths are always de-
manded by those able to afford them.
The lacelike grenadines in wooden
threads are very good value, as they
are strong. They are shown in all the
bright colors Of this season. Grena-
dimes of all kinds and mixtures con-
tinue- IL II, nigh favor, though no one has
worn one yet. They are for summer,
but as summer is close at hand we shall
soon see the pretty gowns made OF
sgrenadine.
I saw pinafore gown today the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THREE PALATABLB DISHES.
Housewife in Search Of Novelty Will
BE Pleased With These.

caunfower. with white sauce. is a dish At
to set before king. To prepare it take off
all outside leaves; wash thoroughly. Put In
bag and boil gently half an hour in sailed
water Pour over melted butter with
spoonful Of cream, or make this white sauce:
Cook together one ounce of flour and two
ounces of butter. add one pint Of sweet
cream or milk. simmer five minutes. Season
to taste with salt and pepper.
The joyous days of watermelon will soon DO
here. When plain watermelon tires, try
watermelon ice. Make 1t as follows: Cut
watermelon in halves. SCOOP out the entire
center. taking out the seeds. Chop IA tray;
add cup Of sugar. Pack the freezer, turn q
few minutes. 1t will be like soft snow and
delicious.
Fig pudding is dish not to be despised.
There are several ways Of making It, but
this one Is about the best: Mince very fine q
half pound Of suet and the same quantity OF
figs; then mix with them half pound OF
finely grated breadcrumbs. with little cas-
ter sugar and enough golden syrup to make
nice paste. Butter mold, fill 1t with the
mixture and boil or steam it for one and a
half hours. Turn it out and serve eiether
plain or with whipped cream or treacle sauce.
The latter is made by favoring little white
sauce with some lemon rind and spoonful
of golden syrup.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
WHERE SHE GETS STYLE.
Fashion Writer Goes to Big Stores
Instead of Spencer and Steven

Instead Of Spencer and Steven-
She writes the fashion articles for one Of
the monthly publications and gets more pay
out of 1t than if she were writing financial
editorials. She is young in years and also
young in the work, so she talks much more
about her efforts than she works. All her girl
friends are besieged to show their prettiest
frocks and to the men she talks necessarily
of ruf1es and flounces, boleros and hats until
they dream at night of the Song OF the
Shirt"
Recently new man was presented to her,
and Immediately was claimed by the young
writer as listener of the latest styles or
Jackets and gowns to be worn the coming
season He was politely attentive to every
word, and, having found such a delightful
listener she began to tell him of her hopes
and aspirations for the future. 1t wouldn't
he long. she felt sure, before she would be
recognized as an authority on tules and
mousselne de sole. and she was hoperui tnat
her articles would be recognized and copied
far and wide. The young man assured her
that he thought fame would surely come,
and when she told him that not only was she
anxious to have good fashions, but also she
wished to become a brilliant writer.
Then of course, you read Herbert Spen-
Ger and Louis Robert Stevenson on STYLE.
he responded with laugh. thinking to help
her out
"Oh, no, I haven't. and don't think I will
need to. 1 go to the dry goods stores for
mine"
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
FEET AND CHARACTER.
What the Pedal E1tremities Reveal
to One Who Knows.

TO One ~ no hnOVV1s
The person who had his character read by
Of the chiropodist in order to learn whether
the markings on the foot agree with the
representations Of the hand.
According to the adopts, small tnstep de-
notes religious temperament, while, II 1t Is
high, it suggests self consciousness II
arched, 1t indicates a love Of luxury, while.
II it is thin in addition. 1t not only demon
strates the desire for appreciation and ap-
plause, but the possession Of honor and lofty
ideals. A thick. heavy instep. which the
bootmaker would describe as rather high,
Is the mark of the individual who Is capable
of great exertion continued over long time.
the instep in fact, of the worker.
The heel Is another OF the great diagnostio
points. If 1t is smooth and round. and with
out any prominent outlines, 1t declares the
individual to belong to that commonplace or
der. which never achieves distinction. and
who though pleasant enough In his or her
way to live with, is yet devoid OF any special
talent. If 1t is small. it shows that the
owner is capable Of going heart and soul into.
any work that he undertakes.
Long toes suggest artistic capacity, just
as do long fingers of a certain shape, while
short toes indicate self1shness. II they are
crooked as well as long, they demonstrate the
possession Of good common sense and no
little business capacity, while toes separated
by distinct interval, In spite OF the COM
preston in which fashionable boots compel
them. are indicative Of emotion. If they
curve downwards. they indicate an amiable
turn Of mind, and different portions of them
denote different characteristics as do the So
called "mountains'' and valleys on the
palm.
In addition to all these characteristics, the
| markings on the sole must be carefully con-
| sidered. for they may modify certain other
peculiarities. 1t is impossible. however, to
| lay down any laws for self guidance In these
| minutiae, but the broad facts will no doubt
furnish a sufficient stimulus for further In
| vestigation at the hands of the wise women
| of the world. for they must be indeed wise
| who can read as in open book, character
| which may be formed by the constructions
| of fashionable boot.
| Whatever else may be done. however. it is
| safe to say that great toes which are pressed
| out of the straight line. and which are there
| fore In hideous contrast with the beautiful
| feet Of Trilby, bespeak an egregious vanity
in their possessor and proclaim a belief In
| the proverb, which states that Ito be beautt-
| full one must suffer-" This, however, was
| the old-fashioned idea, which 1t is hoped the
vogue of Mr.. Du Maurier's heroine will have
| done great deal to counterfeit.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

others have a silk or surah outside,
with dozen little ruff1es of some light
material beneath, always Of a differ
ent color, black being the favorite. An
other novelty is a pink silk figured
with moss rose buds. The handle was
long and slender, with mother OF pearl
end. A fancy pink bow was tied on it
near the end, There was a pale blue
parasol lined with white chiffon ruffies
though none showed, save when it was
opened. Around the edge of the para
sol was wreath OF hazy blossoms ana
leaves exclusively painted and by hand
The end was of one piece Of coral, while
the handle was enameled pale blue.
A rosette bow was put on the handle.
One parasol was very curiously made,
vet effective when open or closed. The
foundation was of dark red silk.
Over this was netted mesh of black
chenille, interpersed, with white che
nile The netted mesh Joined the white
zigzags with an amber bead at each
point. At the edge there was a deep
fringe made Of white silk braid over a
soft ruff1e Of white chiffon. While the
parasol was closed the melted cover
looked pretty, but its full beauty did
not become apparent until 1t was
opened. There was g. double puff of
the red silk at the top and a bow OF
red and white ribbon at the bottom.
The end of the handle was Of ivory.
The rich pompadour silks have been
utilized In many other parasols, being
arranged SO that the strips go around.
Fancy chased orc inlaid handles and
ribbon bows to match finish them. Plaid
silk also is seen, and q few Of MORE.
The handles are very timely wrought,
some Of them being almost grotesque.
One was like ducks head. The plain
black parasols ana umbrellas are made
to roll very tightly, and their handles
resemble those Of canes!
A very handsome gown was shown in
one place, and, as it was both braided
and tailor finished, will describe 1t.
The material was light drab covert
cloth. in a rather lighter weight than
is usual. but still firm enough to bear
the severe strain. put upon 1T In the
tailor finish Down each front seam
was a very close braiding in brown
solltache. ending in quite an elaborate
pattern at the foot. There was snug
vest Of the same and white chemi-
settle front with wide rundown col
lar and black satin four-fn-h hand. Over
these was q short Jacket reaching but
one inch below the waist line. This
had q fiat black velvet coat collar and
lapels Of the covert cloth. The jacket
opened on the left side and was daint-
lily braided with brown soutache. There
was q flare at the bottom that was
scarcely perceptible, but yet 1t was
enough to- change the style or the gar
ment from an Elton 70 q husSaF. by
the way; hussar ana other military
and semivmilitaryi coatAv baaQues. eaRes
=
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THE GUIMpn WAIST.
1t Is Very Conspicuous I'm the New
Spring Gowns.

-
An up-to-date chronicler of modes states
that pretty style which is conspicuous
among the new thin gowns is the guimpe
waist, which furnishes another opportunity
for tucks. In dainty sheer lawn, with mar
row lace insertions between the tucks,
which, by the way, must run crosswise in
in the new guimpe 1t is desirable addi-
ton to an organdie or batiste gown cut out
in pretty square or round shape at the back.
But these guimpes are to be worn with silk
and crepe de chine bodices as well, and
then they are made of white silk or nous
seline de sole. and the neck of the bodice
is finished round. with lace put on fiat. A
pretty material for the popular fancy waist.
which still holds its own in fashions fancy,
is Liberty gauze. in oriental colors and all
over indescribable patterns. Narrow accordion
plated frills Of the same material, edged
with lace, are the trimming, with sometimes
a vest of fine cream net with rows Of mar
row edging gathered on crosswise. Chiffon
matching some light color in the silk and
trimmed across with rows OF black lace
edging makes another pretty vest with
black edging on the silk frills which finish
either edge of the opening. Watered silks In
tiny checks Of two colors are popular for
the fancy waist. and one model in violet
and white has white mousseline de sole
vest over mauve silk, with a .jabot OF cream
lace down either side. Violet velvet in
deeper shade laid in fine tucks forms the
belt and collar,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

vet choux rer small post-lzastsr dance.
young girls will wear eummer-like frockD Of
deliberately embroidered muslins, in which
.entra-deux Is introduced In graceful patterns.
The square decolletage is often relieved by
yoke Of lace All of these dainty frocks have
sashes. All dinner frocks should have long
sleeves. The Parisians are now building bod
ices. which fasten at one side Of the front.
and almost any crossed-over effect Is good
style. Unlined silk and cotton blouse waists
are made in this manner, with groups Of
tucks running around or up or down. The
frill which finishes the edge where the bodice
fastens is of the same stuff. accordion plated
and edged with narrow lace. The Elton jacket
continues to be a favorite model for cloth
gowns. The newest cut is longer in the front,
and under the waist line at the back is set Q
circular piece of cloth. About the waist -
worn q belt or sash.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
LITTLE CAPEs.
They Are Not for Protection, but
| Are Deemed Very Cute.

They Are Not for Protection, but
Are Deemed Very Cute.
Little capes of all kinds will be the order
of the day, but these fascinating little gar
ments are not intended for protection; they
are merely decorative. April is a treacherous
month The sun shines brightly and 1T gives
forth heat, but there is dampness in the all,
and colds are contracted almost without
knowledge. Consequently the wise woman will
not remove her winter jacket simply because
it is Easter. If the coat is not worn an extra
flannel or silk undervest should be placed
under the dress waist. Collar bands and
their decoration play an important part in
the finish of frocks, and everything from a
ribbon collar and bow to an e1aborate fichu
can be found ready made in the shops. In
fact, entire fronts of waists with collars are
made so that they can be adjusted to any cos
tune. They are made of muslin, silk and
linen batiste, lace and ribbon, and Of silk and
lace. Little frills are composed Of chiffon.
net and lace. all plated into band ready
to haste inside the collar. A short ruche,
wider at the back than at the sides. appears
made Of lace and net. Loops OF ribbon are
used on the backs OF collars, with the lace
ruche falling between. An effective neck
trimming is composed Of a white satin choker;
points Of lace stand up and meet the ears,
and at each side Of the choker are black vel
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THE SHIRT WAIST OF TODAY.
1t Is a Striking Example OF the Va
riety Fashion Can Furnish.

1t Is a Striking Example Of the Va
riety Fashion Can Furnish.
The shirt waist Of the present day
Is striking example Of what fashion
can do in the way Of furnishing variety
In even comparatively small field for
operation. All the early rumors to the
effect that this serviceable article Of
dress was to be relegated to the list
Of questionable things certainly had
no foundation, if the hundreds OF
waists Of every sort and condition,
which fill every available space In the
shops and appear on every other Wo-
man you meet, are conclusive evidence
of popularity.
The very latest and simplest shirt
waist of cotton Madras, zephyr, or pei
GALE Is made almost like the summer
shirt worn by men, with plat in
front, pointed yoke in the back, and
very little fullness in the sleeves at the
cuff, which Is plain and fastens with
link buttons.
The fashionable stock Of black or
some light color or the high turn-ov
liren collars are worn with this, and
also with silk, batiste and every other
kind Of waist which can be classed
with the shirt variety.
The genuine, tailor-made shirt waist
is generally considered the best style.
for something in the cut, fit and finish
Of it promptly stamps 1t as not IN the
class of ready-made shirts. Yet the
latter have improved wonderfully in all
the points which go to make them a
success The fullness in front Of the
waist made to order is arranged more
on the shoulder, and 1t is fitted more
closely under the arm, both Of which
points help to make it more becoming
to the figure Cotton waists of gins-
ham In stripes and decided plaids OF
rather vivid colors are prominent In
the display, with many others OF
ribbed linen and French batiste striped
with various colors and patterned over
the rosebuds.
All the varieties of linen batiste are
used for shirt waists. some Of the pref
test being those with embroidered
bodies and plain batiste sleeves. The
plain batiste bodice is usually orna-
mented with crosswise tucks forming a
yoke or in groups over the entire waist,
with narrow lace frills on the edge Of
one tuck in each group.
Flowered organdie waists with color
ed silk or dimity Innings are very pref
ty. and corset covers in pale blue,
pink and green can be purchased all
ready to wear under any of these
thin waists. White. dimfty shirt waists
are to be much worn, and they have a
small bishop sleeve and turned over
cuffs. The prettiest white waists are
made of wash silk or Liberty satin,
with two rows of narrow lace insertion
down either side of the box plat and a
group Of tiny tucks between.
The first waist illustrated IS of LOU
isine silk with wide crosswise tucks
piped with white silk and worn with a
stock of white silk. Another shirt
blouse Is made with wide box plaits and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

cade, cut V shape to show the linen
chemisette and tie, and is fastened with
one handsome button. A coat with an
open front has revers piped around
with folds Of cloth in contrasting colors,
and fastened back with two handsome
buttons.
Seaside tailor costumes seem to have
a Special style all their own. and re-
vers, cuffs, and vest Of white, or some
light-colored cloth, trimmed across
with braid, give the desired effect:
white cloth we'll covered with braid of
different colors is very much used as
q trimming for cloth gowns, and the
plain white cloth vest fastened with
small gold buttons is very good style
with some of the coats. Many Of the
cloth gowns with the round close-fitting
waists are finished with position ends
at the back