davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

and edGings and insertings we are wear
ing boleroS OF lace, even on cotton
gowns, while summer silk can hardly be
said to be complete without one. And
now the very latest thing is to have en-
tire bodiCes made of this dainty fabric
They are usually ecru in color, and are
made in the favorite pouch fashion, fas-
tening at the side. They have simply a
high band and ruffled sleeves. These are
made 10 wear over detached bodices of
any desired color. and are thus econom-
ical as they are pretty, which Is saying a
great deal.
The demand for printed silk muslin of
filmy texture is hardly equal to the sup
ply. 1t comes in so many beautiful col
ors and falls in such soft and becoming
folds that it is extremely popular for
dressy costumes. Nothing could be more
suitable for the warm. balmy days, the
soft green tones being especially attractive
and ool-look ing.
Green and white are greatly In favor,
and saw one such com bination that was
really delightful The gown itself was of
white canvas, trimmed with the ightest
green, iuch-wide gauze ribbon, with a
satin edge. This was applied in the form
of braiding to the skirt in very intricate
pattern and also on the sleeves and the
front of the bodice. The epauiettes for m
long cape-like trimmings above the arms
and the sleeves fall over the hand. The
effect OF the whole was very satisfactory.
Here is an appropriate costume for
those of US who sometimes go to the races
The material is the ever-popular foulard
In soft pearl gray. The skirt is of the
fashionable sun ray pleated variety,
edged with ruche Of black silk muslin
made very full, and striped down the
sides with treble rows of heavy black lace
insertion, connected together for several
Inches at the top, so as to well mold the
hips. The blouse and sleeves are both
tucked, and trimmed with insertions of
the black lace to corresp pond with that on
the skirt. The square fat epaulettes are
OF silver guipure scalloped wita tiny
pleatings OF black lace, the belt and
straight collar being also of the guipure.
The hat to wear with this gown is of fine
gray straw with beret crumpled crown, set
of with bows and draperies in pearl gray
chiffon. 1t has an aigrette of black os-
trich tips at the side. The parasol is of
Pekin silk, edged with silk muslin
flounce.
Accordion pleating is very much in
favor, and appears in almost endless
variety in the matter of the ARRANGEMENT
of the pleats. Perhaps the most fashion
able at present is the sun-ray kilt pleated
skirt, otherwise known as plisse soleil,
but this is only one of many. One of the
newest styles is the cross-way killing
especially suitable for sleeves and house
gowns. Then there are stripes formed OF
some dozen close-set killings, with an
inch of plain material above, while others
form box p eats broken at intervals by
strips of the same material. Another
style falls in waved lines which closely re-
semble cordings and minute undine wav-
lngs IN corded stripes, closely set together
either in lines or vandykes.
Some of tho ordinary killings are
broken by festooned scallops OF the ma
terial and give III. aspsc, OF a single or
double row of founcing. Fashionable
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
Chit-Chat.

Casseroles are generally popular espe-
cialiy the pretty freproof ones which have
silver wire mountIngs. Much liked like
wise are the bowls and jugs of coaIpert
china obtainable in either pure white or a
delicate shade OF apple-green mounted in
gold or silver; the jugs are finished with
lids swung on pivots let into the glass or
china, which cannot come unshipped. For
a man who smokes, the expanding cigar
box which will hold any sized box of any
wellknown brand is acceptable.
Housekeepers Will be glad 10 hear of q
new leather-reviver, which will improve
chair seats, bags. etc. o. course, it will
not restore leather if the surface has been
rubbed, but IN ordinary cases it renews
the gloss and freshness in an extraordi-
nary manner.
Selvyt is being used instead of chamo!s-
leather very extensively, as it polishes
glass, silver and furniture; besides, it is
being used as gripping" for the handles
of golf clubs, bats, racquets and in many
other ways.
Before silver is cleaned it should always
be thoroughly washed with good SOAP
used with boiling water. Then it should
be thoroughly dried. after which the
paste or rouge can be applied. Alter it
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
T5feAlsTIo IohlS;> - FAD S.
AND IA TA|NGIES.

latest skirt. 1t is a wonder and glory at
the same time, especially Tor the tall, slen-
der women, for it is flounced from top 10
bottom-nothing but fiounces. 1t is made
in black glace silk-the whole thing.
The dressmaker whom l talked to
about it said, however, that if the greatest
care was not takon when cutting these
founces the skirt would be utterly ruined.
One little slip of the shears and say good
by TO the skirt. From the foot to the belt
of the skirt each founce is shaped with
out any fullness aud Is cut on the cross.
The flounces are piped with white and
edged with lace. Really, though, the new
skirt is pretty enough. In fact, it may be
called elegant without exaggeration.
l am told that the early Victorian period
is responsible for this newest creation and
that the grande danes of that period used
to wear very nearly the same sort of skirt.
The more l investigate the question, how
ever, the more 1 learn that this is not
true. There may have been an occasional
skirt of this sort, but it was never general.
We may be initiative, but in this one in
stance what we have initiated is some
thing that was always exceedingly fash
lonable although very rare.
The woman who numbers among her
possessions some rare old lace is fortunate
indeed. To be sure that is one of the few
things from whose value time does not
detract and which is always desirable.
But this particular summer lace is used so
universally that 1t is more valuable than
ever. Besides the usual frilling and f1ounces
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

day in the last North Bloomfield case has not
been fully understood by many people 1t
directly affects and temporarily stops but one
hydraulic mine in the State, hut it is a high ly
important decision nevertheless. 1t chiefly
affirms two things: First, that the Canine, ii
act is constitutional, Congress having full
power 10 prevent absolutely the obstruction OF
navigabIe waters by debris or other things,
and second, that the control of hydraulic
mining operations on the watersheds of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers by the
Federal engineers composing the California
Debris Commission is absolute.
This is the first time that the constitution
ality of the Caminetti law has been passed
upon. This has never been seriously ques-
toned, but there has always been some doubt
TO the extent OF the jurisdiction of the
Debris commissioners. The suit was really a
friendly one brought to determine this. The
North Bloonfie Company, which once con-
Quoted the biggest hydraulic operations in
the State led the van in that ancient struggle
with the anti-debris forces which resulted in
the Sawyer common law decision which closed
the hydraulic mines.
Some years ago and before the passage of
the Caminetti act the North Bloomfield Com
pany volun ;artly constructed restraining
dams OF its own by creating settling reser-
voirs out of vast pits Jug during its earlier
operations. 1t resumed operations by was b.
Ing us graVel into these art1hclal lakes the
overflow from which was comparatively clear
Another il junction suit was brought, but on
the showing that the company did not wash
debris into The watercourses Circuit Judge
Gilbert allowed the company to proceed.
Then came the Caminetti act, creating a
board OF supervisory engineers and requiring
restraining dams and a license from them for
hydraulic mining in these watersheds The
North Bloomfield Company, having already
built restraining dams, ignored the Federal
engineers and has proceeded without apply
ing for permit, as have all other hydraulic
miners now operating. The question of the
Jurisdiction of the Commissioners in such g
case arose.
There are places, especially in Plumas
County, where streams drain through lakes
and long M arshes, which would act as natural
reservoirs for debris, if hydraulic mining were
begun above, and in many ways the exact
powers OF the Debris Commissioners were i'm
portant. The engineers themselves wanted
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
Good American Mannnrs.

II was in the elevator of the Hotel Con-
tnental in Pdris-one of those slow-going
machines In which this noted hotel de-
lights. Four or five persons were in the
car besides the operator, who had waxed
lat in his laborious occupation of pulling
on rope. One of the company was fresh
from the Ecole des Beaux AIRS. where, in
deed, his whole time was employed when
not engaged in the necessary relaxation
at Versailles, in the Bois, ut the cafe or in
other restful places of the worlds capital.
dis companion was not of this descrip-
tlon Among the others were q lady and
gentleman. to the former of whom the
two Americans had removed their hats.
But the gentleman with her made 10 mo-
ZION to remove his, but regarded the COM
pany with studied indifference.
"Oh said one of the Americans, "it
does not appear to be necessary TO re-
move ones hat here" and thereupon
clapped his on his head. The lady and
gentleman getting out at the next floor.
the guard politely informed the re-
mainder of the company that they were
the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of
Mecklenburg- Schwerin, the latter being
own sister to the then i'm perial autocrat of
all the RussIas, as believe it was stated
Architecture and Building.
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

has dried all the powder must be removed
with good firm silver brush ana lastly
each article thoroughly polished with
chamois leather or selvyt cloth. Even
when the silver is daily washed with care
this process should be gone through wItn
every two weeks if the plate is to be kept
in any sort OF condition.
Gloves.
Gloves are always an interesting topic
to write about, and for years Queen Vic
toria has been wearing eight button
length black suede mou quetaire and the
same in kid. The Princess of Wales is in
The habit of ordering for evening wear
twelve-button mousquetaire in 10th suede
or kid. These are either pale gray or
white, and are usually stitched with mar
row black. During the DAYTIME she pre-
iers pale tan or a delicate shade OF mouse
gray. The latest kids for evening wear
have glove fitting lace sleeves that fasten
just q bove the elbow with ribbon.
Very fashionable are tans, grays ana
BLACK, made OF beautifully fine and elastic
kid, stitched with mixed back and white.
Some of the finest kid known to the most
exclusive trade comes in shades OF deli
cate drab and the stitching is self-colored.
For cycling are some white gloves with
lambskin backs and canvas palms and
finge-s; also in tan dogskin with tan
colored silk canvas. This canvas is cool.
but has fine fancy m esh.
A useful and pretty tailor gown worn by
a stylish woman is built of dove-gray
cloth. With it is worn a chic bolero COM
posed of black velvet edged with white
cloth handsomely braided by hand with
gray silk cord. A large collar, square of
cut, is of while cloth EN- broidered with the
gray cord. II has the appearance of being
made over a wider collar OF black velvet.
The cuffs and pockets carry out The same
idea. The draped belt is of black velvet.
A lace cravat has its ends carried under
the flaps OF the collar. This toilet can
only be worn successfully by an extremely
tall and very slender woman.
The very latest capes are being made of
gathered chine glace silk in a many tinted
tartan. One such was edged with fawn
cloth, which turned d up quantity as a hood
with long ends in front that were lined
with the silk. ruche of silk and lace
finishes the neck.
A fetching little coat is composed of
green glace closely covered with stripes of
very narrow black rib bon velvet. The
collar of this can be worn turn ND or
down, according to the wearer's fancy.
The toque is fourishing exceedingly
and may be had in a variety of straws in
green, in mauve. in red. etc, but the
straw is always crumpled. For special
occasions have the black straw tooues
been created. These are beaded and
spangled in a heavy design, and trim med
with either a white feather, standin q
boldly upright in the form of an aicrette,
or with batch of green watts tipped with
black, tied with a knot of colored velvet
For the Auteuil races the miliiners
are making toques of frosted tulle with
great sprays OF black and white osprey.
The feathers are called yet deaf"
MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
Poplin

Is again being employed by several of the
beat houses. The quality costing SO per
yard is good and wears excellently well.
chic young belle lately appeared in a
navy blue poplin. The lower part OF the
skirt was andsomely braided. Quite
novel was the Introduction OF two large
imitation POCKETS on the hips. Like the
skirt, they were braided with black silk
braid. The bolero bodice was braided
with black and gold and opened over a
beige MORE waistcoat, which had light
blue velvet revers. Long sleeves edged
with Valenciennes lace extended over the
hands, and the beige gloves were stitched
with black
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
For a MiddIe-Hged Gentle
woman.

You can realize the charms of a dress
having bodice of soft black SILK, which
feels like thin cham oise leather. This is
beaded (by HANDY all over with fine Jet.
To obtain the necessary straight lines in
places part Of the jet is attached to cords,
SO that the design can be made becoming
10 stout and slender figures alike.
The basque is cut into two shaped tabs
at the sides, rich jet ornaments and
fringe being attached to them. The soft
silk is used for epaulettes. being han l.
somely embroidered on the edge. Black
ribbon velvet is arranged so as 20 narrow
TO a long deep point in front of the bodice
to the bottom of the vest, and is then car
ried through embroidered slashes in the
epaulettes, and tied in bows and ends
which fall over the sleeves. a similar
bow appears at the back of the basque.
The sleeves may be of ruched silk or
chiffon. The vest may be varied, tut one
of white or ecru is in all cases most be-
coming. One we'll liked is of ecru chiffon
over white satin, a fringe of Jet falling
over it gracefully. The skirt is OF the
black chamoIse silk.
1t NAV De made perfectly plain or with
five rufties. narrow ones, OF course, that ex-
tend higher up in the back than in front.
They may be Of the silk, or if chiffon is
used for the sleeves il would look well on
the skirt. At all events the first ruffle
should have heading of black ve.vet rib
bon. Violet silk makes a good lining that
will not readily soil, and bunch of vIolets
is usually becoming.
A most dIstingu guished-Iooking matron
lately received many glances of approval
when arraYed i'll princess gown OF black
chiffon. 1t is MADE over white silk, the
belt of which is OF white lace run with sill
yer threads. The skirt is accordion pIeated
and run around the bottom with bout fif-
teen narrow threads of silver From the
narrow belt of white lace extend, both up
ward and downward, points of the same
lace. The sleeves are likewise adorned
with it.
A young girl who would have made her
debut last winter had she not gone into
mourning has an exquisite grenadine
sprayed with violets, which she wears
over a pale violet slip. Her neck and
waistband are of violet velvet which is
softly wrinkled. 1t is a youthful frock on
which are innumerabls tiny lace edged
rutt1es, which well suit her very slender
figure,
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

the act construed, and as a result of considera-
BILE correspondence the North Bloomfield Com
pany shouldered the small expense involved
and r friendly action was brought in 1895
after conference in Washington between c.
w Cross, attorney for the North Bloomfield
Company, aud the War Department ana Al.
torney General Olney.
The decision declared that the jurisdic.
tion of the d chris Commission and the
requirement OF permit are wholly
irrespective of the question of whether
debris is properly restrained or not. The
North Bloomfield Company must now apply
for permit, and If the Debris Commissioners
fud the impounding works sufficient, as they
probably will, the company can go right
ahead.
The other day some able London barrister,
knocked in the head the sale of Trinity
County hydraulic mining property to Lon.
don company. The attorneys presented an
elaborate report on the legal and other diff
culties of hydraulic mining in California as a
result of the Sawyer decision, the Caminetti
act and so on and advised against risk ing tha
investment. The attorneys did not know that
all these laws and decisions have nothing to
do with hydraulic mining in Trinity County,
where they can wash down hills with absolute
freedom.
Two important investments of English capi.
tai in Mother Lode properties were made dur.
! ing the week. Henry Bratnober, an associate
of Hamilton Smith and representative of the
! Exploration Company of London, bonded two
adjoining mines in Mariposa County Just
] south of the Mariposa grant. The properties
were owned by Mrs. McCreIlish and Alfred
| Waurtonweiler respectively of this City. One
! was bonded for 100000 and The other for
! $125, ,O00 This investment Will, of course be
| followed by extensive development operations
Hamilton Smith and his associates not long
! ago bought Alvinza Haywards one-Sixth in.
terest in the Mariposa grant on a basis OF
! ST 100000 for the entire property and thev
are known 10 be after larger interest which
they will probably get one of these davs
| These purchases show the faith in Maripose
County lodes which some of the biggest ex.
perts and investors in the world possess, ana
they mean large future operations in Mariposa
County.
After making the deal Mr.. Bratnober At
once followed Thomas Mein to Alaska Neip
development work which is to be done on the
sixteen properties sold not long ago by C. D.
Laue and others. Hamilton Smith is expected
to arrive at Butte, Montana, within a montb
and he will later visit Alaska too II ia
! thong at likely that large further investments
OF English capital in Alaska will follow the
visits of these associated experts and many
Californians will be interested in kpOwtng
whether Hamilton Smith, who can get a mil.
! lion dollars of English capital by telegraph bv
asking for it, will visit California during his
western trip
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

How dainty and lovely are many of the
toilets now being worn by fashions s
leaders at our principal summer resorts.
and very great is the admiration ex-
pressed for the skill exhibited by the
dressmakers in America, who nowadays
originate numerous fetching models, we'll
worthy of some of the best-known Partisan
houses.
One young bride wore at a recent
luncheon a soft gray WOODEN grenadine,
round the bottom of which were three
narrow frills of yellow surah. 1t was
made over separate skirt of surah on
which were two inside lace-edged ruff1es.
The slightly pouched bodice folded back
ward with revers, and these formed part
OF the collar. which was cut in a modified
empire style. The sleeves had puffs and
ruff1es.
Gray, By the by, daily increases in
popularity, and is seen frequently in COM
blnation with white or canary color, but
just exactly the right shade must be used
with the yellow or The results will be
most disastrous. These colors were used
together several seasons ago with such ex-
cellent results that we may this year anti
cipate some truly ravishing effects.
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

The number ot dark-haired girls who
get married greatly exceeds that of the
fair ones, statistician tells US, and in or
der 10 prove this is owing to mans
choice, not the redundancy of brunettes
he proceeds to show that an overwhelm-
ing majority OF those women who "liye
and die unmarried" have fair hair and
blue eyes.
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

lined with chine six. Just at the top
the sleeves were rather wide, the rest of
them fitted closely. A thread-like cord of
gold outlined the revers, the collar and
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
SUPERFLUOUS HAIR

rs REMOVED BY THE PHILADELPHIA
ELECTROLYSIS CO.. ITO Market street. cor
Tay.or, over "rhe Maze" rooms :S and 20 by
means Of the electric needle without pain or scar
Moles, warts, etc, also removed. Permanently
guaranteed. Hours to p NJ
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
New York Notes

The people who think there is nothing
new under the sun should look at the very
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

This movable
concealed the front locks and
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
Il Cashmere Costume

Lately noted. also in Paris, was truly
admirable, being of Parme-coiored CASH
mere, and, says a cores pondent, 1.-The
skirt was cleverly arranged to be quite
plain and fiat around the hips, and yet to
fall in graceful pleats and folds TO the
feet. Two or three rows of silk gallon the
same color, with bars of the same cross
ing at intervals, relieved the pIainness OF
the skirt; the blouse bodice was made
with a small, full basque, attached to a
band that could be removed at will. 1t
struck me very good idea. The front
was EN- bellished with chiffon, edged with
Vslenciennes of yellowish tint. The
sleeves were slightly bouffant at the top,
and had gallon on the lower part. The
underskirt was silk"
Likewise exec lent was an absolutely SIM
pie cloth costume made with weli-huDg
plain skirt lined with soft, rich silk of a
golden hue. The jacket with short basq ue
had high open collar at the back, la
Medici, which gradually decreased in size
and oped into the open front, which did
not close, being open about three inches,
with small straps across. fastening on
either side with very small square gold
buttons; its front and the high collar was
The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13
Plaid Silks.

Those having an infnitesimal check are
quite the thing for skirts that are trimmed
with black ii bbon velvet; these usually take
deep point toward The knee in front, be-
ing raised considerably higher round the
back portion of the skirt. With one such
skirt was bodice OF black glace silk, it
overhung q belt with a short baaoue
the revers turned back, thus revealing
a vest composed of innumerable tinv
frills of creamy Valenciennes lace. Some
of the bodices made in this style with
revers and basQues, have modified Medici
collars, but bow of tulle or lace is AL
ways worn at the throat. All such ar
rangements Of tulle are extremely becom-
ing, but exceedingly warm - lose
their freshness after being worn twice
so that, all things considered, the
tulle bow tied round the neck inside the
high collar at the back is more servlcea bic :;
however, this fad can only be INDUCED in
by women with long and slender throats
The Flagstaff sun-democrat., 1897-09-09

Through Pullman ralace ana Iourist Sleeping cars daily between California and Chicago
 The only line reaching the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.
 Limited trains No. westbound and No. eastb0und run semi weekly.
 No. 3 leaves Uhicago6 6 D. m. Wednesdays and saturdays; passes Albuquerque I206 D. m. Fridays and Mondays; Barstow 1.D pt m. Tuesdays and Saturdays, arriving at Los Angeles D. m Tuesday and Saturdays.
 Passengers for north of MOjave holding tickets reading via Mojave change at Bar stow to No. 6.
 No. leaves Los Angeles Ut 6 .. m. Tues- days and Fridays, passing Barstow l.55 D. m and Needles i.3Qp. m. same days; Albuquer. que 3.55 p. m. Wednesdays and Saturdays. arriving Chicago g.i3 \. m. Fridays and Mon- days.
 Passengers from north of Mojave may take the Limited either at Barstow or the Needles.
 Only drst-class tickets sold at full rates are honored on the Limited trains.
 Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars daily through between Chicago and San Fran cisco and Chicago and Los Angeles.
 Pullman Tourist Sleeping Cars daily through between Chicago and San Francisco and Chicago and Los Angeles.
 The Grand Canyon of the Colorado can be reached only via this line.
 Ask for [ beautifully illustrated ook which will be mailed free. General Passenger Agent. Los Angeles. Cal.