The Saint Paul globe., 1897-06-06
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part of the ruf1ie is turned in and
gathered. Where these are used there
are generally several, one tapping over
the other and the top one being gather
ed III Spanish style. The accordion
plated ruffies and entire skirts are
very popular and very pretty. There is
neW way OF arranging these called
sun D.aitlng" The top is arranged
50 that the plaits lie very dep on the
uEderside, and they are brought in very
closely at the top, and at the bottom
they spread out widely. The material
is cut on the straight, and the spread
ing effect is obtained by having the
top Of the skirt overlaid closely.
This is very pleasing when done in
light silks, IN plain silk muslin, in
Russian net. in plain grenadine and
in the mohair fabrics. These lend them
selves to this kind Of plating very well
and, better, the plaits keep their place
unless the garment gets a regular
soaking.
There are few suburb new designs in ricn
brooaded silk where the pattern covers half
the breadth. The patterns in all these silks
are very large and generally of a design at
once bold and striking. Large PAIN leaves
show in shaded light ard dark greens over a
lilac ground. There are other designs OF tuieS
with broken :eayes of dark green and their
brown 'C1ttai-s' over a gray surface or
Waiery blue. Iris, and in one case great
Eo:;yhock pattern, formed other designs. One
magnificent gown Tor very dreSSy visiting and
carriage had a swamp flag pa tSfn on a dell
Gaze tan ground the leaves being in russet,
green and brown. The skirt hung in MASSIVE
curves uRtrrmed. The waist and sleeves
were of the same superb material. Silk mus
: lin doubled ruffies were seWeda N at the wrist
Sd that they fell over the gioyeS. There was
a. Mare Antoine5te ichu Of black satin duch-
ess wi yoke Of white lace laid over the
b -ack There was immense rufi1e around
the neck CT cream co,ored silk muslin, made
double and bouEd at each edge with narrow
black ye4vet. Til s rufIiing was paced at the
shoulders II lavish profusi0n. l he hchu was
edged with back silk null ruff1e bound with
/ velvet all around. The tabs tied in a loos3
knot at the back and hung down be.ow the
knees. This elegant wrap, however cou.d De
worn with any costume
Serge for some cause continues to be the
preferred material for young girls. probably
on account of its usefulness, and 1t always
looks we'll ON the young. very neat new
way of making it IN into pretty dresses Tor
Young girls of sixtCen or seventeen is 10 have
tile skirt trimmed with bias fo-d of the
same with a riped border set two inches
above The Bottom of the skirt. two tabs reach
ing upward about fl cen inches and finished
with points. with four clusters CT small gilt
buttons sewed in Breton style. ain
blouse waist with few plaits n front and
two c,us ers Of the same buttons is wcrn with
a gilt belt. The sleeves are bishop shape,
with slightly puffed effect a. the top White
linen cuffs and a collar and black sa in tie
complete a costume entirely suited to the
age of the wearer. There are many colers
in serge. but none IS 50 pretty or becoming
to youth as dark blue. There IS a s.ngie
and double vale in serge this season. The
latter has nearly a fat smCo h surface. Ike
the finest d:agonal
that is too handsome to pass by. The skirt
IS OF silvery gray IRISH popln, with five
rows of p:ped bias folds of the same material
set en- the waved lines about as high as the
knees. The bod :ce is in form of an eton
jacket and has jetted lace sewed all over it.
At the arms is a simulated figaro of silver
worked wi a pretty jet design. The bod
ice is of very r.ch green peau de soc. The
high collar is faced with pearl gray satin and
has very narrow pail ing of white lisse,
ard this same extends down both SIDES of
the opening N the bodice. There IS a crepe
Esse cravat how. which adds softness and del
icacy. This same model could be developed
in less expensive material and still make
handsome and stylish gown.
One of the ncw ruffied gowns deserves
more than a passing mention. as It shows
taste in simple material The gown in ques-
ton was CO Of the new moha;r tw.l.s the
prevailing color being light brown. with a
back cast n certain lights. Around the skirt
were five accordion pla ted ruflas The two
Bottom ones being sewed on together and
all the others overlapping SO that they stood
out in a pretty manner.
They were headed by one narrow mi.iiner's
fold OF the same stuff. The bodice had a
pretty surplice front with three very narrow
self rufles all sewed together which caused
pleasing manner. In fact from what have
seen lately. l do not think it would be possi-
be to misplace a rufle or to make one too
wide. too narrow. too straight Or too bias,
or too high. or too low on waist or skirt.
Rufles &C silk muslin. VIII ch is little stiff,
are made nto fui. rufs to wear around the
neCks of gowns, or are added to wraps as
a Ean6scme and universally becoming finish
White cream, pale pink or blue and black
are al employed the weaTer may prefer
but the ali back bound with narrow ve.vet
ribbon and the whitebordered also with black
velvet are the most elegant. There is not
nearly as much ribbon used now on costumes
as there was What there is now IS mostly
for sashes or a bow here or there and not so
very many of them. Moire ribbon is pre-
ferred to any other on the finest millinery and
fer sashes. Taffeta of the crispest kind is
also used as hat trimming but there are
times when a satin ribbon or a groserain or
Pers an appears to be absolutely necessary
for the proper completion of a garment or
hat. and they are TO be found. Velvet ribbon
for trimming in the narrow widths is enjoy
ing popularity long forgotten.
One very sensible use It has been Put to,
and that is to define pla IS up the arms of
easy and nice, but it is always knocking
something down or dipping into ones tea,
and that IS not very pleasant. SO now they
make the sleeves full down to about eight
inches from the wrist. and the rest. as 1
sald is fastened into plaits with the velvet
ribbon. making the sleeve close. The plan
Is good one. Mate Leroy.