New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-12-12

aford-a profuson Of uncommon, foreign-iooA-
Ing eatables. among which any one SO inclined
may explore and experiment almost ihGehhite'y'
without being obliged to try the same thins
twice unless he likes it-have developed ne"
function, which still further establishes theni
In the regard OF the community. The Key 10
It may be found in the following attractive no.
tice displayed conspicuously outside the VIII
dows of several OF the shops:
"ROAST SUCKING PIGS TO ORDER"
.......'..'''''.
This is enough in itself to make the casual
passerby stop a,.1 indulge in thoughts OF saVory
dinners but if he will merely take the troupie
to step in and inquire about the matter he
will Gnd that the sucking pig is simply type
Of class. The fact is that the delicatessen
shops have gradually come to fill the place OK
the famous English bakeshops and will roast
any desired article for their patrons. from
small bird TO boar's head elaborately deco-
rated, or the aforementioned little pig. luf-
KEYS. chickens geese ducks. all kinds of game,
Joints of meat. including venison. when mat ~
in season-in short. any of the dishes which
serve as the principal pieces Of most peoples
dinners may be had cooked to turn at the
'delcateseen shops. A few Of these things. such
as chickens chicken pates, roast pork ana pigs
feet are always kept cooked on hand. the de-
mand for them being steady enough TO warrant
this; but most OF the larger and more expensive
dishes are cooked only by special order IL is
open to the customers choice whether the
meats to be roasted shall be provided by him
self or by the shopkecper.
There is a regular scale OF charges for the
cooking alone. varying not only according 10 inc
article but according. also. 70 the style III
which il is turned out. To have a turkey roast
ed plain, for instance. with the ordinary ODD
fashioned stuTing OF bread crumbs seasoned
with herbs, costs 30 cents at one OF the pet'cr
shops while to have the same fowl stuffed with
chestnuts or truIlcs would cost two or three
dollars This Of course. would be simply the
payment for the work and the stuiling; II the
shopkeeper provided the turkey. also, he would
charge tor it at the regular market price per
pound 1t is impossible for the dealers always
10 have the roast reach its destination smoking
hot This is particularly true in winter, when
Il has to be carried any distance But the Gus
toner knows at what time il will be ready, and
IL il Is sent for promptly II does not get really
cold in its journey and can easily be warmed
again IL desired. Some dealers send the orders
home by their own men. but in many cases the
carrying is left for the buyer to look after.
The chief difficulty which the dehcatessen
cooks experience Is I'm getting their patrons
trained to allow them a reasonable time in which
70 do their work. Amateur housekeepers. who
have no idea whether ii takes fifteen minutes or
three hours to cook any given article will send
in great haste at $3.50 p. IN to have turkey
roasted for dinner at g. The cooks. who are
usually French or German hold up their hands
In horror protesting volubly that the feat is i'm
possible Nevertheless. the customer usually
leaves the fowl. in a blind sort OF faith that
II will be done somewhere near the desired time.
The cooks shrug their shoulders and go to work
without delay, but they wisely make no prom
ises At the time when he or she fondy trusts
that the turkey will be cooked. the customer
a deputy, is likely to put In an appearance. Re
ceiving no encouragement however, from those
in charge Of the simmering bird the unhappy
messenger is obliged to linger outside the door.
solacing himself perhaps, as did tie two young
Cratchits In the christmas Carol" with the
conviction that in the mixture OF appetizing
odors which floats up to him he clearly dis
tinguish the savory smell Of his own turkey.
There are still other dishes besides those men
toned which the delicatessen shops cook to or
der Among them are pies OF all kinds-game
pies being a speciaty-pates Of every dcscrlp
tion and baked beans. Little pans Of the beans
are constantly hand. II Is true. but.
clerk said with pride the other day. I'VE make
zem as beeg as you Iike-so beegi" and by
tending his arms he indicated circle about a
foot and half In diameter.
Aside from the cooking department. the stock
Of a delicatessen shop Is pretty well known.
The chief attraction about II to the ordinary
housekeeper is the variety Of food which 1t af-
fords OF kinds which could never be prepared
at home Smoked beef shoulders. smoked jowls.