Evening star., 1897-02-13

mixed fabrics, or from fabrics whose
str1pes, checks or piaids are SO softly and
harmoniousy colored that, though thew are
bright and lively in appearance they are
so neat and quiet in effect that nearly every
man of good taste will admire them, even
though he prefers palmer goods Vests,
however, will frequently be made from
fancy vestings, the weave, coloring and
general effect Of which are SO different
from those of past seasons that like all
new things, they will probably be ridiculed
and caricatured for some little time But
as the new materials are rich and beautiful
they are likely to become popular before
the end of the season.
There will be nothing extreme in the cut
of any garment. Coats will be neither
loose nor tight, will have shoulders of
about natural width, and will be of mod
crate length; vests will give to the body an
apparent length that is in harmony with
the full height and trousers though they
will be wide enough for comfort and con-
venience. will have sufficient shape to in
dicate that nature gave curves to the legs
of the wearer.
Among the many garments which will be
admirable for their fitness to some special
purpose are the following: The double
breasted sack for business wear, every part
and expression of which indicates comfort,
convenience and utility, and the same gar
ment so changed for wear at a summer
resort or for lounging or for yachting or
some other sport or pastime as not only
to seem perfectly adapted to the purpose
intended but to be inappropriate to any
other. The long waisted, Short-skirted cut
away frock, which has about 1T an unmis-
takably commercial air, it's still longer
wasted and shorter-skirted brother with a
wealth of flap. which as Enthusiastically sug-
gests the race track The about equally
length divided cutaWay frock of dark ma
terlal- neat of roll and tapering of skirt
which proclaims itself emInentIy genteel
but seems too small and unpretentious for
any social Junction. The double-breasted
frock, with its silk richness of roll, it's am
plitude, it's long graceful lines, it's fullness
OF stlrt, and its general dignity, which
proudly asserts its thorough fitness for
every conventional requirement of society
somber evening coat, or in the vernacular
the swallow -tail.'' with its long, graceful
roll, Its never clashfng fronts, it's narrow,
tapering skirts and its general aspect of
elusive right of sartorial entry to any oc-
casion of ceremony after dark. And the
Tuxedo, that graceful useful. much-mis-
understood and abused sack. whose proper
abiding place is the borderIand5 between
evening dress and aristocratic neglige,
which sometimes usurps the place of the
sWallow-taif and has recently conspired
with the fancy vest and the boldly orna-
mented trousers to win for itself the right
of existence Independent of any part of
evening dress.
OvercOats.
1t is hardly necessary to say that the
Chesterfield or 1y-front oversack will be
the most popular overcoat during the in
coming season. No other overgarment ever
became so popular or retained it's popular
ity SO long. There are good reasons for
this. The majority of tailors can make 1t
more successfully than any other overcoat;
those who are unusually skilful and artistic
can satisfactorily devote their best ability
and taste to its production, and it Is as
comfortable, convenient and becoming an
overgarment as was ever designed. For
the incoming season 1t will reach about to
the bend of the knee; will be shapely, but
not close-fitting in the back, and will have
moderately broad shoulders. slightly built
up, with natural round over the droop.
The back will have center seam with u
vent from to inches long: the roll will
be of medium length (about Z inches); the
collar, which will be self-covered, will be
long, and the notch widths will be 1A inch.
The roll will be sik-faced to the edge; the
edges will be single-stitched close; the
seams will be finished plain or be cord
welted to match the edges. and the sleeve
finish will be a two-button vent as a rule,
though either plain vent or a sewed-on
cum closed with two buttons will be equally
correct; 1t will have no outside breast
pocket but the side pockets will have flaps
to go In or out. The materials from which
1t Will generally be made are covert coat
ings. tweed coverts. cheyiots and worsteds
The popularity of the covert coat for
street wear has so greatly increased during
the past few seasons that it may now fairly
De considered rival Of the Chesterfield for
that purpose; but 1t Is so in name only
Ihe covert coat proper Is very different