Evening star., 1897-06-12

season. 1t is to a republican observer a
striking lesson on the advantages OF a
monarchica: system to see how the con-
seriousness Of noble birth can sustain women
against the misfortune of being unable to
take part In personally conducted dress
making expeditions.
/ have theory that excessive tight lac
ing is more common in London than 1t
would be If blouses were sold in sizes.
However, have not meant to imply that
the time and money lavished on the toilet
are altogether misapplied There are too
many French milliners and modistes here
for that, and, thanks to them, rich stuffs
are cleverly handled even more often than
they are spoiled. A few examples:
An evening dress prepared for these weeks
of jubilee functions is of a soft powder
blue brocade patterned in a quaint de-
larly graceful empire gown with broad
belt Of gray blue velvet. The short bodice
Of yellow brocade embroidered with moon
light beads is cut in simple square at the
neck and has loose elbow sleeves.
For n State Ball.
For a state ball is a dainty dress of sun
pleated white satin with a soft overdress of
white chiffon frilled about the hem. Some
little distance below the waist are two
groups of trimming. made up of silver en-
broidery set with diamonds and bordered
top and bottom with ruches of white chif-
fon. A similar trimming is used as bertha
on the bodice. Into the narrow waistband
at the back there is a very wide sash of
white satin ribbon with broad ends reach
ing to the ground
A smart little garden party frock is of a
petunia tinted foulard patterned with white
In branching sprays. narrow ruche COW
cred with one of lace finishes the hem OF
the round skirt, which is trimmed in front
with two deep apron points of lace gath
cred full and edged with ruffles. The blouse
waist has lace front and the sleeves are
bewilderingly complex affairs of lace and
wheel ruffies. The large white straw hat
has a soft full crown and is trimmed pro-
fusely with lace and roses.
A second dress for a similar occasion is
of red and white printed muslin made up
over white glace silk and made more at
tractive by a kind Of spot embroidery car
ried out in crimson silk. The skirt is al
most covered with lines of cream lace in
sertion set on with a slight dip In front
and bordered throughout with fine lace
frills. The bodice and sleeves are crossed
by a similar Insertion of lace arranged to
form yoke and also serving as epaulectes
on the close sleeves. Round the waist
there is wide soft sash of white chiffon.
The white muslin garden hat is trimmed
with roses and white ostrich plumes.
To Wear ON a HousebOat.
A novel dress for a houseboat entertain
ment Is Of green and white checked can
vas made very full over a separate founda-
ton of green silk and trimmed round the
hens with three narrow frills of cream
lace. The topmost frill Is headed by mar
row white satin baby ribbon drawn up very
closely after the manner of the old French
ribbon embroideries. The bodice Is edged
with the same white ribbon and trimmed
very prettily with cream lace. The white
satin bolero Is cut square and covered with
lace, while in front there are some novel
insertions in the form of diamond-shaped
pieces of white silk tucked and finished
with lace edging. Below the bolero is a
folded belt of cerise satin fastened at the
wi a no oil h,,nly 10 cof xr,;+ h
rconds and rubies. The neck is set with
silk ruffies and bows of cerise satin.
For rather more formal wear is a prin-
cess gown of delicate silvery gray cash
mere elaborately braided with fine silver
ccrd and small silver Sequins. The long
lines of braiding start upon the bodice and
reach half way down the skirt. Between
the rows of braiding are stripes of inch
wide moire ribbon. The sleeves are odd
and original, with puffs at the elbows For
the rest they are quite tight-fitting and are
covered with ribbon and embroidery tc cor
respond with the skirt trimming.
OF Turquoise Blue.
dress Of turquoise blue glace silk shot
with white must come in also for consider
alton. The skirt is lined with pale mauve
and trimmed with a graduated iounce of
accordion-pleated silk beaded with chiffon.
The bodice has loose front of cream net
covered with an applique of pale yellow
lace, the design outlined with small steel
sequlns and Jeweled with large turquoises |
At the throat the bodice is cut in q small |
square edged with a narrow band of mauye
velvet caught with diamonds. The epau-
lettes are of the embroidered net with its |
applique of lace and sequins, while the |
waistband is of the blue glace silk The |
bonnet accompanying this dress Is om-
posed entirely Of pale pink roses.
A visiting dress of pale biscuit-colored
moire is quieter but elegant, with its plain |
skirt and bodice of turquoise chiffon shad-
Ing to green, A TRANSPARENT bolero Of bl,clx
net edged with cream lace and turquoise
giace Is further trimmed with an embroid- |
cry Of jet and steel heads. The de 90 waist |
oand Is OF black satin fastened with tur- |
Quoise and steel buttons on either side Of
q central fold of embossed silk with a |
cream ground This fold starts by forming
the neckband and is then continued down
tne 'front.' OF the bodice. Under the maire |
skirt Is q separate foundation of turnmoise
blue silk. to offer temptations for holding
up the draperies. ELLEN OSRORN