The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-02-20
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
OVER THE TEACUPS.
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Indications do not promise that we shall
see any elaborate simplicity this season
or simplicity of any kind-nothing but
general business and frivolity from the
top of a bunchy neck ruche to the hem
of a much ruftied skirt.
Stately bellies and Gibson girls have
had their day, at least for a time. so
would seem 20 say the first instalment of
spring models which you know are al
ways designed for. the American market.
This would imply that we knew what is
TO be worn in America before We have
any reason for discovering what the
Parisienne is going to adopt. which is
largely true. although the couteriere is
not the sole autocrat in the matter Be
tween her and the defined modes of the
spring stands the buyer; generally a man
OF woman of such long experiences that
one wonders where his apprenticeship
was passed. and perhaps. after all. sue
cessful buyers are born. not made. and
know instinctively what their feminine
public will choose, like successful man
aver OF foreign stars and music nall
novelties.
The average Salt Lake woman. like the
balance of her sex. does not probably
care about being told now what she is TO
wear next summer. In a general way
there will be a lot of thin stuffs and all
materials that ruffie and fOunce nicely.
Muslins covered with silk embroidery in
rich colors will form basis for captivat-
ing frOcks. and silks in plain colOrs, or
with small patterns. will supersede the
elaborate rich patterns used for the large
untrimmed skirts of the past.
There Will be a deal OF fine tuckinS and
embroidery. shirring. nne rufhes and deep
fiounces. and ribbon bows and sash ends
everything that is dainty and coquettish-
But the average woman. If not IN crying
need of a new frock at this moment.
now. when fashions are supposed in the
hidden atelier of the designer TO be
changing. it is well to look a bit forward
when choosing something that shall end
this season nicely and yet not be out
of place in the coming one
g {. {.
For spring materials serges are the best
or undeniably good for the street. and
the soft cashmeres that come in so many
shades for dressier occasions. The serge
walking suit is certainly the plainest
thing We have, yet even this is elaborate
ly trimmed with folds or applique of vel
vet or cloth in another shade. or by
braiding, which still remains in favor. al
though the pattern should be something
out of the ordinary, and certainly hand
uOne. TO give II any cachet.
Skirts have to be fitted now more care
fully than ever and stand out at the
bacl. well. although they are not nearly
so full at the sides and front. There are
many cunning devices in order to effect
this much-desired result Very flexible
SteelS find Il place at the hem OF the skirt.
and sometimes about quarter of yard
below the waist Indeed. wire and FteeI
have many unaccustomed uses now Not
only are most of the outstanding collars
wired. and a great deal of the lace and
most of the bows. but not few of the
silk bolerO jackets are thus treated. Cord
ing has come back to us once again, and
a great many of the newest skirts have
three cOrdings on the hips. which make
them set very fiat below the waist, and
stand out gracefully beyond.
The STYLES of the vest are endless.
There is barely a fabric. be it batiste.
openwork weave, zephyr, wool or silk.
plain or patterned fabric, which is not
drawn on to serve as vest stuff Nice live
Unlocking Scotch patterns. as well as
chanceable color combinations. are liked
From the multitude of garnitures may
be mentioned DliSSeS and small Duckered
puffs. The vests are either with or with
cut backs.
> garment related to the vest is the
shsrt-blOuse. There is no doubt but that
its popularity will exceed anything known
heretofore. Large squares upon white
ground. narrow and broad striped Eng
lsh and German fancy Stu1S. solid and
-,etterned linens. half wool and atwood
lawn tennis. etc, are utilized equally for
TIE shirt blouse. Collars and GUNS are
r,ostly of white and gray linen. colored
zephyr. etc, and are Starched stir The
blouses are trimmed in an infinity of
styles; buttons. lace. incrustatons.
plisses and embroidery The bOleros also
are decorated at pIeScit Win tASSS var
Gus garnitureS-
Very handsome and really serviceable
waists are of black chiffon. using i've TO
six yards. lined with black or brightly
colored satin or taffeta. These are
trimmed with jeweled passenenterie. jet
o. horsehair lace decorated with jet or
jewel
Il Paris chiffon sleeves are worn with
velvet and silk high-neCked gowns They
ere of the glove or Bernhardt style,
full.r wrinkled over a close silk lining
With two small puffs at the top. over
which hangs frill of the dress material
A ruffie Of chiffon finishes the wrist
An odd silk waist is given a new effect
by cutting it entirely on the bias II re-
CURES yard more. but the effect IS
.o.el. and six yards will answer with
chiffon plating for the neck and sleeves,
half q yard of velvet for belt and bow
ard one large fancy button The glove
sIoa--e has been noticed on many waists.
vrinkled up to a short puff or draped IN
q butterfly bow at the top
The silk and velvet bolerOs have rein
troduced the gauze blouse. of which only
the front and sleeves show under the
Jacket The fronts are usually finished
with a lace jabOt or a band OF JeNeled
passementerie is laid down the center In
narrow belt unless a corselet is preferred.
AID often the collar has a band across
The front Just showing beneath the turn
over frii of lace. yet furnishing the nee
essary bit of glitter
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