The age-herald., 1897-10-03
And in Comes the Blouse as the @ Wrap of Fashion.
SOME SWEEPING CHANGES
the Styles of Fur Garments for Woman's Wcal-Sable To Be the Mos Favored
 Skin-0ther Coming Styles.

of all, they are convenient too, for many of the most fetching designs admit of the utilization of old garments.
 The fur capes which have been popu- lar so long have had their inning. They have been, made long and short and broad and narrow and plain and fluffy, until now it seems absolutely impossi- ble to make cape that is really new style. Loose coats, blouses, and short jackets of fur have completely busted the cape.sss
 The advent of the tight sleeve in wo- mems frocks is largely responsible for the radical reform in the cut of fur coatstn Whenever very large sleeves are worn the tendency is to wear closely fitting waists, but let the sleeves dimin- ish ip Size and immediately bodices/ are made to bag and fall in generous folds. A .spiteful man has said: "A woman is bound to waste material somewhere"
 Fashionable women are on the tip-toe Of expectancy to know just what the styles in fur will be, for the fashionable furr1ers never put their new garments on exhibition before Oct. 1. This among them is an unwritten rule as rigidly ad- hered to as the doffing of straw hats on Change on Sept. 15. Not only that, these furriers are very close mouthed and hardly a hint are they willing to give as to what really Is to be worn.
 One of Brooklyn's leading furriers gave a Sun reporter peep at the new est things, and talked about the great revolution in fur garments, boas, and muffs very freely.
 Sable will be decidedly the most fashionable fur this winter" he began, and that is well, for 1t is one of the richest and most becoming furs that we a i1f1a and Persian lamb were passe in a. way, but great change in the sentiment re- garding these furs has been wrought owing to the exceedingly pretty styles in fur blouses and short jaunty jackets brought from over the seas The very newest things of course are the blouses, and most of them are made of baby lamb, as it is very soft and flexible and does not Nook clumsy. Those made of seal are equally fashionable, however, if a person is slight enough to carry one we'll.
 "The regular Russian blouse promises to have great run. This one is made of Persian lamb and is gathered at the waist, falling full from the shoulders down and setting out in three box plaits below the waist Nine. In front it is laid in tiny plaits at the neck and it falls perfectly loose. The sleeves are small but full at the shoulders and waist, where they are finished with a faring cuff. The collar is high and flares con siderably.
 !" 'sThat one," he went on, pointing to- ward a figure, lis regulation plain blouse waict, made fbaby lamb and finished with a high collar and faring cuffs, while this one is exactly. like 1t, except it has a short fiaring skirt cut in scallops below the waist, giving the garner mt a rather more dignified, styl- fsh. appearance. Another design has a lightly fitting back with a blouse front; this is particularly dressy in seal. Not every woman, however, can wear fur blouse. A short, dumpy woman would only aecentuate her figure by donning such a garment, and tremendously tall person amply propontioned would not look at all well in these loose things. For such there is, a modification of the Eton jacket in seal or lamb. One of the most taking designs fits snugly all around and buttons straight up to the chin. It is cut off square at the waist line and has broad revers of the lamb and over these smaller ones of chinchil- la. The high collar is also of chinchilla There are several other pretty styles in short jackets, and they will be much worn. Many women who have long Per- sian lamb or seal capes are having them made-into such garments and trimmed with contrasting fur. A very practi- cal coat for those who do not go in for extreme styles is made of seal with
 
 box front, buttoning well over on the side. This coat is twenty-four inches in length, has a. chic collar and a fetching cuff of fancy design.
 ssThe, sleeves cf al1 fur coats are very much smaller this season. In fact, the manufacturens are only waiting for thle dressmakers to allow them to be made very sirtall, indeed The fuTriers are in an unfortunate position, not being able in this case to advance the styles faster than the modistes do.. If a wo- man ingislts upon wearing her last years gowns of course we cannot make the coat sleeves too small for this to be an dmpossibility, though the chances are that the sleeves will grow even smaller as the season advances.
 e Tn place of the cape we have this winter that from which the cape really develpode, the wrap. This garment should never have been used for amy thing except dress purposes. These wraps will be brought out in great va- riety of, styles and lengths, from very short lressy creations to ong, loose coat with sleeves which slips easily over an evening gown. These wraps ara mostly made of rB-h silk brocades or fine woJ3len materials, and are lined throughout with ermine. squirrel, mink, long. fluffy Thibelt lanb ard, dn some cases even with highpriced sables.
 '"TailoT-made gowns will be much in vogue this winter, and with the9e will be worn neck pieces of sable or fox. These pieces are a little larger and longer than they we're last year, and are trimmed with clusters of tails as bsfcre Almost any form of fur neck wear is admissible. from a. single little band that fits like collar and gives just a touch of richness and warmth to a costume to the stoles that reach to the bottom OF the skirt. Boas and tippetls' made of the entire skin of some animals. such as the fox or sable, prom ise to be very fashcionable.
 yutOne of the most magnificent fur gar InefIts brought out this year reminds one of the o,d-time Victorine. although the fur runs in a different direction. This one of sable is made of eleven entire skins. The legs form points over the shoulders and across the back, and Gail coming bs tween each pair of points gives an exceedingly dressy appearance. The fronts reach nearly to the bottom ,of 1thel skirt. and aech of them is com Fbs4d Of three skins The neck Is fin- tshed with a fluffy rucqring of the fur. s>za .r+ss