Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-11-27
FOR UP-TO-DATE WON EN-
Stylish Headgear in Evidence at the Recent
Horse Show.
Poke Bonnets-Turquoise IL the Fad
just N0w-Hands0me Gowns
of Black Velvet.


1t did not take great powers of observa-
| ton at the horse show last week to as
certain that poke bonnets had determined
| to vie with picture hats in a bid for pop
| ular favor. Their success, however. must
needs be confined to a more limited field,
| for while the picture hat is becoming 20
| nire out of ten women 1t is exactly the re-
verse with this voluminous revival of the
early days of the century.
/, Most of the poke bonnets one sees are
faced with shirred pink satin or other
| material in the same color. They are In
| nnltely more becoming. however, when
| raced with black muslin de sole or chiffon,
| and are apt to be more admired because
| they are SO seldom seen. In beige or gray
| beaver. faced with satin Of the same color
Win traiiing piumes of the same shade and
VIDE satin strings. they well suit youthful
races Oh. the ostrich plumes! Whence
did they come. L wonder? There are not
enough ostrich farms in all the world 10
supply more than enough plumes to cover
| tae hats thus adorned seen at the show in
a single day. Henry VIII or Francis of
Cloth and Gold fame would have been quite
! thrown INTO the shade with a single ostrich
PHI me curling over the brim of his velvet
| nat Some of the very pretitest hats are
| n ace very much like those seen in paint
lnes OF the merry monarch, who ran to
| variety IN the matter of wives as well as of
| clothes.
Black velvet hats. with a white feather
| curhis over the brim. are not bizarre, but
| soft and becoming.
| Ioques deserve a chapter to themselves
! put all the chapters in the world would not
| make them becoming or satisfying unless
p i,i, made 1t is not every milliner
| VINO can create one of these poetic head
| gears, ard it was not always the woman
| whose attire was the most costly who wore
the most artistic toque. A woman wearing
| a simple suit of broadcloth Of a shade he
i tween wine and ruby was crowned with a
| loque OF ruby velvet, which was quite beau-
| u1il. 1t had the stimulation of peak or
| crown, with a soft suggestion of a brim
Oa the left side were few curling feathers
OF brown and white. which might have
LeeI dropped from the wing of some beau
me hair on the left. The words needed to
| descrlbe 1t take away from the idea of sim
phcity, which was its greatest beauty.
| Not Necessarily Beautiful.
Little turquoise velvet and gold bonnets,
with or without white ostrich tips were
worn by SO many women who do not con-
slider cost IN following Dame Fashion that
| they really must be mentioned, although
they were not beautiful. Turquoise is a
Trying color. especially when the glare of
| hsht makes 1t seem more green than blue
bot becoming or unbecoming it is the fad
OF the hour. and a touch of 1t is used to
hei5hten many dark gowns.
Ii IS often used in the little tucked yokes
| or gumpeS of the French gowns These
Httie tucked Jokes and collars 1 have mcn-
| toned before They are usually of a shade
contrasting with the gown. For example,
one may nave a yoke and collar OF crea n
| or ivory satin on a black velvet gown The
tueks are fine, and at the back OF the col
lar are two fiat, small pieces of satin to
| cover the hooks. The gown is finished with
| beading or braiding where il Joins the woke
| Black velvet. by the way, was one of the
| popular materials for gowns. Young wo-
men wore 1t. hghtened by satin of a con-
trasting shade or by white lace. Older wo-
| men wore 1t severely plain with black
and white lace to give the needed bright
ness. Generally it was made up on severe
| and simple lines. 1t was beautiful and it is
| good to see SO soft and rich fabric again
| on the list of eligibles.
| OF gray 1t seems scarcely necessary to
| speak, for its rank at the head of ponular
| colors has been insisted upon for months
| But the glowing and bright mixtures of
| white and gray, which were all classed un-
| der the head of this one color, could not
| by any means be mistaken for the Quaker
garb.
A gown of satin of narrow stripes of
| black, white and gray, with many touches
of exquisite lace about the throat and
bodice and wide gray hat with gray
plumes curling over the brm will long be
| remembered by dazzled beholders as a
| symphony which suggested snow and
moonlight and all things poetic, and made
enc quite forget the cunning art which
fashioned it or the large outlay of pro-
| saic dollars and cents which made it Dos
! sible Gray cashmere was the material of
Waists and Skirts.
So great is the rule of the tailor-made
gowns that they were worn morning, noon
and night, and in many cases supplanted
the more elaborate creations worn in for
ner years. Even the boxes were quiet
and dark at night when one thought of
the bright and gay masks of color which
| lined them in previous years. Careful OBJ
servers point to this fact as a sure indi-
cation or the passing Of the separate waist
as an article of toilet.
Trimmed skirts Stimulating overskirts.
even the overskirt itself, were made in such
a way that the mind was filled with sad
forebodings Of the approaching time when
the material We have taken out of our
sleeves Will be put into our draperies All
SKIRTS are very narrow on the hips and
flare suddenly toward the bottom. This
too, is considered a sure forerunner of the
time when they will be made narrow in
order that they may serve to hold yolu-
minous over draperies. Tournures can no
longer be ignored. Only tiny packs of
horse hair or hair cloth inserted by the
leading modistes SO far. Let us hone thew
will go no farther.
The sleeves. curiously enough had many
OF them, something approaching a stiffen-
ing. Ihey htted snugly from the wrist to
the elbow. Above that they were not ex-
tremely large, but were held out from the
arm by little stiffening in manner re-
minding one of a tournure
The velvet sleeves, as a rule, fitted tight
ly three-quarters of the way up There
they began to wrinkle like a mousauetaire
glove, and at the top were slightly pulled
into the armhole.
The tight sleeve without adornment or
establishment of any sort did not appear.
But its forerunner, the tight sleeve with a
cap or with wings at the top. was enough
IN evidence to make one fear that by the
time the horses which gladdened the ewes
OF SO many with their beauty tread the tan
bark again next November we shall he
looking at them and at the passers-by
without lorgnette or opera glass. And IL
man. freed from the thraldom of tight gar
ments, seeks to know why we have dis
carded these aids to vision, we will give
every reason but the right one. For the
right one VIII be that our sleeves are SO
tight that we cannot raise our arms.
MABEL BLYD.