The record-union., 1897-08-01

Costumes of pure white, from parasol
TO shoe, are one of the prevailing fash
ions in summer dress, and they are
worn morning, noon and night in all
the varying grades of elegance or sim
plicity.
New and beautiful satin foulards OF
delicate quality and gay coloring are
made into stylish costumes with point
ed bodice and Marie Antoinette fichu
Of the foulard with scarf ends that
either fall on the skirt front or tie at
the back The seven -gored skirts are
trimmed with narrow triple ruches or
frills of the fabric set on about ten
inches apart.
Among the myriad of comfortable
things for the summer girl is the i'm
proved summer corset of silk net, with
soft, elastic cores, simply edged with
feather stitching in silk floss. There
are no fripperies nor extra frills to take
up any room, or become frayed, but
the corset itself is a gem. 1t is the
perfection of shape, and the manufac-
turer claims that it will wear better
than any of the ventilation" corsetss
of heavier fabric. Stout, shortwaisted(
women have quite made up their minds
that the short, graceful tennis or eye
ling corset is a boon for them for con-
stant wear.
In Paris figured lawns and other cOt-t
tons are now trimmed with ruffies
edged with lace. The ruffies overlap
and may reach the knee. The top of
the sleeve recalls the skirt, and the
blouse is gathered onto a yoke to make
what is sometimes called a baby waist,
the yoke trimmed crossways With
tucks and lace Or the gatheredsWaist
may be cut down pointed over a. lace
guimpe. The skirt, though gored, has
some fulneSs round the top, and is
sometimes tucked vertically all ronnd
to the depth of some inches. A model
in plain pink has the skirt thus tucked,
and the ruffies instead of being bias are'
cut straightways of the cloth. This
skirt, therefore, does not flare butt
hangs straight and full, and takes form,
only by the petticoats underneath, as
characteristic of all the skirts of the
season. The blouse has loose yoke
that extends out over the sleeves,
tucked to match the skirt.
The Partisan novelty of the season in .
thin materials is an unprecedented
elaboration with needlework. Last
year the ecru linens were spread
smoothly over colored silk, and the eff
feet of transparency was all that was
asked; but this year the linen is tucked
and ruffled and set with insertions, and
the idea of a transparency has taken
second place. A model has the skirt
all in fine vertical tucks, with thirteen
inches left at the bottom to fall as a
fiounce, the founce elaborated with
tuckS and insertions running round
The blouse is in vertical tucks like the
skirt, and the sleeves have tucks and
insertions running round like the
flounce. l have seen a pale blue lawn
with the blouse and skirt completely
latticed over with valenciennes inseE-
tions
AL these gowns have the skirt madef
loose from the lining skirt, and in gen
eral have a little more fullnesS at the
top. The blouse remains in form what
it was when 1 wrote last, loose and
dropping all around; it is for the most
part closed invisibly, and whatever
trimming it has does not take a dis
tinctive shape, but is rather an enrich
L
and lace alternating, running up and
down or across or both at once, en-,
broidery or lace, are employed to give
an all-over effect, and this absence of
positive forms in the trimming is a re-
narkable peculiarity of the summer
dress.
The sleeves, in spite of everything,
even of the invocation of Trianon, have.
remained long, and elbow lengths may
try again next year. They are close ala
the way up, and the top is marked only
by ruffles, or a small puff set in the
seam, or ruche. This shoulder orna-
ment, destined to disappear, is now
utilized to give an accent to the gown.
Thus, for example, a gown of pink
gauze has a band of fiat ruching of the
same over the armholes, and through
the midst of each band runs a ruche of
deep red. A touch of the same red / is
round the foot of the skirt
Short boleros and Etons made of cut
work and embroidery, lined with thin.
tinted silk of some becoming color, are
considered very smart with any sort
of light summer gown. They give a
pretty finish that is both chic and
dainty.
Batiste 1aces wrought on a delicate
net ground are much used to trim ecru
lawns. linen batistes and similar trans
parent fabrics. With these toilets, late
in the afternoon at the summer re-
sorts. are worn very pretty ruches of
chiffon or batiste, finished with long
scarf ends of the same, bordered with
batiste lace insertion bands
A handsome imported jacket is made
of box cloth, showing a white sailor
collar and revers. The model is open
fronted and extremely short. The
jacket is a pale shade of cream, and is
called the redfern beach jacket, and
other models are in pale green, mauve,
tan, sage gray. silver gray, and also
deep currant red