Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-09-11
A Handsome Calling Gown Suitable
for Autumn Wear.
TIE SEASONS FANCIES In PARIS
The Triumphant Reign Of the b.
Iero Still Continues.
INTERESTING NOVELTIES
Copyright, 1897. by s. NJ Baldwin,

Copyright, 1891, by y NJ baldWln)
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS. August %. 1897.
The fashionable world is still enjoying the
country. although social duties enslave it
even there and the delightful afternoons,
warm and sunny, yet penetrated with sug-
gestions of autumn, are most appropriate
for receiving calls; hence our design for an
afternoon dress 1t is composed OF green
taneta, black satin ribbons and white NOUS
seline de sole. The skirt, which is made
with a padding at the hips ard back, Is
lined throughout with white satin, and Is
trimmed below the krees with rows of wide
tucks. alternating with bands embroidered
with white silk and studded with pearls
and green metal spangles. Each band Is
placed over :. strip of black satin ribbon,
which greatly enhances the delicate trim
ming and forms charming contrast with
the green Of the skirt
The back of the pointed bodice is quite
plain. and is made of green taffeta. The
front is formed by pleated white mousse
line de sole, crossed in surplice fashion and
caught into a belt composed of the same
pieated mousseline de sole and pointed
girJ,c of black satin ribbon The small
shaped opening at the back, left by the
crossing of the white mOusseline. is filled
cut by a plastron, composed of embroidered
bands. like thcse on the skirt, and black
satin ribbon. A full jabot of mcusseline de
sole is artistically arranged down the front
o: the bodice, and is caught by a lizard of
emeraldS and diamonds Another graceful
arrangement of black satin ribbon and
white ntousseline de sole decorates the side
OF the oelt and falls in frills and loops al
most to the knees. The quite tight sleeve
Is composed entirely of diagonal tucks of
green taffeta and alternating bands of en-
broidery and black ribbon. The pointed
wrist is finished with frill of white NOUS
seine de sole. and two-pointed winglike
GrIperies make the shoulder appear fuller
Another large frill of mousseline de sole
surrounds the standing collar of the en-
broiiery and black ribbon.
The Latest Fad.
Apropos of the unique ornament which
fastens the jabot of our gown, 1 would
mention a bizarre fad which the fashion
able Parisienne has lately adopted. Hardly
has her love for the little live chameleon
died OFT. when from the ashes of this dead
love rises. like Phoenix, a new pet This
time ii is a tiny live turtle. whose shell
has been polished and set with diamonds
and other precious stones. Two fine gold
chains attached to the shell of the little
creature fasten it with diamond pins to the
lace OF the bodice. These turtles are very
tame. and there is but one man in Paris
VINO mas succeeded in preparing them for
their lie OF luxury, and he sells them at a
price TO pay him well for his trouble.
Inc triumphant reign of the bolero con-
uhues 10 be supported by old as well as
young. and with reason, as there is hardly
toilet accessory which equals this comet
tish little packet in daintiness and practi-
Ca1ili.y. It's shape is so varied that the
whimsical goddess of fashion has as vet
had no CHARGE to exhaust it, II proves
particularly useful for the early fall. when
u forms the medium to later heavier wraps
A beautiful gown of red and black MAZE
Lasse "a heavy goods with a silk brocaded
front surface on a wooden corded founda
tohl mas the skirt and basque trimmed with
heavy black and gold passementerie. A
graceful sleeveless bolero of dark rod vel
Vet Is embroidered with gold and has a
nigh, haring collar, which opens in front
Win reVers, showing blouse front Of
crTam-colored guipure over black satin
Inc waist form, with side fastenings and
clas trimmings, divides honors with the
boiero. The wide front thus attained al
lows opportunities for rich trimmings The
Fancy Tor glitter still asserts itself and
ana sliver soutache or embroideries bright
ehed by coral or turquoises cobochons and
spangles, beads and pearls.
The Seasons Fancfes.
AS black will be the seasons fayorite
color. the black satin or silk shirt waist
with starched white collar and cuffs and
naming red necktie will be greatly worn
by the woman who affects severity. and
who Is handsome enough to bear 1t. The
accompanying skirt may be Of black silk
or cloth with soutache trimming
The sleeve and sleeve trimmings shrink
more and more, although outdoor garments
still show full shoulders to accommodate
the decorated waist sleeve.
Since l have already treated upon the
subject of bizarre fashion alterations 1t
may prove Of interest to mention a few
other caprices which waver daringly upon
the narrow dividing line between elegance
and exaggeration. Thus with the return
of earrings We find that the extreme wo-
nan Of fashion wears such made Of very