The herald., 1897-08-15
BUSTLES COMING INTO VOGUE
NOVEL AND ORIGINAL USE FOR
ORIENTAL VESTS
The Very Latest Hat Is Trimmed
With One Enormous Pink Poppy.
Something New in Gloves

away Flat sleeves are unquestionably
coming into fashion. A modiste just
from Paris told me a day or two ago
that the latest creations of the best
dressmakers over there show scarcely
any fullness at all in the shoulders of
the dresses Therefore, it is not too
much to say that another season Will
see US practically back to the old style
OF tight sleeves.
Just at present the most popular
sleeve is that which has little globular
putting at the top, and is plain from
there to the wrist. This putting may be
provided by the sleeve itself, or by AL
additional piece forming short extra
sleeve. Another way is to have 1t
plain, except for few pleats set in on
the shoulder, which style may have an
epaulette or not, as one pleasee. Still
another style is cut and pleated so as to
give the effect of a double puff across
the top of the arm, sometimes very little
fullness being used, ard sometimes a
good deal, the sleeve iteelf being loose
above the elbow.
single piece, though those, with cir
cular putting are generally cut in two.
Sleeves running in tucks across or
gathered lengthwise in tiny puffs and
mounted on tight fittirg Innings are very
fashionable just now, as they suit thin
fabrics particularly we'll, but there is
decided tendency to prefer palmer forms
in the very latest productions.
Dressmakers continue to cut sleeves
fully long, but the points coming down
over the hands are not seen so fre-
quently as of late. Lace ruffles, how
ever cor cealing portion of the hand,
are seen on most of the smart toilettes,
A very small minority of garden party
costumes worn on different occasions
lately have elbows rather wide ano
finished with deep lace ruffles, but this
sort of sleeve is generally reserved for
house dresses and tea gowns. might
add, too, that many low evening dresses
have quite long sleeves.
Jacket and coat sleeves WILL of course,
be diminished in width as dress sleeves
grow smaller, but to accommodate the
inside sleeve certain amount OF
breadth at the top is necessary. There
fore the new coats and jackets which
we will begin to think of presently Will
continue to be mounted in pleats, though
shallow and reduced in number Hang
ing sleeves, reaching to the elbow, will
be adapted, to some of the more fanciful
jackets
Another thing is certain, and we may
as well make up our minds to it-bustles
are coming into vogue again. Not the
monstrosity of which some Of us were
guilty a few years ago, but a modern
affair which will really be quite accept
able The best of the new style bustles
is made in sections; that is, the hip
pieces are cut and padded to fit the nat
ural figure. These up to date affairs are
intended to be worn underneath the cor
set instead of outside, and this means,
of course, that there must be new cor
sets with hip pieces adjustable to cor
respond. In short, the hustle which we
are going to wear now will be just suf-
ficient to give an artistic effect and keep
the skirt from sagging in the back
1t seems very queer to think of wear
ing white silk stockings for other than
evening wear, but 1 am told that that
is what we are coming to, and whoever
else objects, the laundress certainly will
not. Clocks, too, are again in favor, and
enough to please anybody. The designs
are much more elaborate than those we
used to wear, and they are to be had in
white and colors on black and also in
combine ations of colors. Ribbed effects
in black, alternated with colors, and in
some cases combined with embroidery
are also to be had.
In fact all the new hosiery is lovely
c1a ell ,ixtt
being especially attractive. Then there
are some with wide silk stripes with
small sprigs, flowers and other devices
between the stripes. Plain boot patterns
with artistically combined colors for the
uppers are also desirable. Another Of
the new patterns shows medallions filled
with flowers embroidered all over the
stocking, boot as well as leg.
A genuine novelty in gloves is nov
city indeed, but here is one. They con-
sist of white, black or green suede, fas-
tening with four buttons on the suede
portion anG scalloped at the edges. But
to the kid are attached armlets, beauti-
fully embroidered in silk cord net, the
designs being applique butterflies in the
kid, ornamentally outlined with the cord.
The net is worked as a scallop It the top
and drawn in to the size of the arm with
satin ribbon. The black display cream
embroidery, and they are most orna-
mental. The junction of the net and the
kid is defined with silk cable, repeated
on the back of the hand, and an addi-
tional button to fasten the wrist is intro
duced on the lace.
A strikinkly original use of the en-
broidered vest made the success of a
biscuit colored linen gown 1 saw the
other day. The skirt was wrought round
the hem with tall tapering sprays of
white braiding and cording, the mate
rial being sufficiently heavy to hang we'll
and to show the embroidery to good ad-
vantage. A short, tight fitting coat was
drawn closely into the waist It the back,
and also braided and corded with white.
The coat opened slightly in front and
had wide revers. one faced with tucked
white muslin and narrow Valenciennes
the other braided and cords ed with white.
Then there was a chemisette OF finely
tucked white silk muslin, and a vest
which really, so to speak, made the CO.'S
tune. This was of fine red cloth, richly
embroidered in Oriental fashion and was
drawn down under folded waistband
of black satin ribbon. The contrast in