The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-04-11
NOTES.

p%ropriate title are frequently made to masquer-
nde in a disguise suggested by the momentary
within OF the cook or the maker Of a menu. DIR.
Thudichum In 1.-THE Spirit of Cookery" gives the
proper designations of dishes, each significant
OF its origin or quality. 4 rAngidise means
that It is roasted or boiled in the plainest man
ner, or prepared in n form peculiar to that coun-
try without necessarily being plain. AFHdtfenns
indicates that II dish ia garnished with savory
macaroni or ravioli or that Parma cheese is used
rs an ingredient. la Prorencdie is a dish that
is cooked in olive oil and favored with garlic.
Ala Pc,iOord is applied to one In which Iuf!eS
arc largely used: a Ia Normande to n fish
ragout or to ono in which apples enter as an in
%grcdient; a Ia Dauphinoisr TO ono praised, COW
orod with n thic; sauce, rolled In bread crumbs
and fried; u Ia SourOuignottc to one cooked
with the addition OF red wine, while n Ia Borde-
ldisc means one prepared with white wine.
Those titles which should bc specially retained
arc - hn id1riinierc, n typical collection OF cooked
vegetables used In soups. rarouts. aud remoyes;
with a somewhat wider application. ia ,ancc-
doiae is applied to green vegetables in white
snucc., also TO = salad made of 2 variety
Of cooked rcgc' ohlCs or fruits. 4 Ia mdifF'e
d'hotei generally signifies q dish prepared
IN n homcly manner or TO a sauce q melted hut.
ter. Il Ia sonbisc Is generally applied to dishes
garnishcd or favored with them. A IN Crccp is
in " tho form SS OF p@,ee. w iHIerUas Is in allni-
sion to German provincial pccullaritics of the
or a sweet sancc for vcnison. 4 Ia poionoise is
employed whero hcots or rcd, c~abbnges nre used,
as in the national disl, called horsch. 4 Il Chip
0'dtn IL annlicd to dishes which contain STRONGLY
which they. nro filed. ITO t,ynmarde is q namo
rivcn TO dishes containing Brussels sprouts: n
IFspdnnoir 10 those made sovory. with. the
brown, typical sauce, and a Ia those
typical of Nicnncsc cookery.
d.. Drinkwatcr. q well.known specialist, con-
siders in some recent lectures on the chemistry
OF the Kitchen. the subject from q standpoint
other than that generally accepted. For exam
pie. II is asserted that, by the modern processes of
milling, most OF the nitrogen is eliminated from
flour. DIR. Drinkwatcr agrees that that is
the case. He maintains, however, that the OK
cess OF nitrogen contained in -four millcd by the
old methods IL not in n form assimilable in
the body. and that n large portion is not used.
SO that there IL more waste in w~holc.mcal bread
than in fine white bread. He also dcnounccs
starchy food. Starch itself. he asserts, is not a food.
and no doubt hundreds OF children are starved
to death by giving them fare of this character
Such food Is casil" nrcparr1. nrd therefore pop
ular with the workingman,s wife. rs 1t fills the
child's stomach and stops its CRYING for n time.
II i.n carho.hvdratc pure and simple. and in
itself Ia not n food. Cornmeal 10 not n food. DIR.
starch used in the laundry and that in potatoes
from u chemical point OF vicw. CornIncal and sago
rOn'NlN - per cent. o. Stnrcn anu rice ana pearl
hurley 90 n"r cent; In order to render stHrchy
fools digcstihlc they. must he well boiled. Sa-
Iva contains something which hos the power OF
s,archy fools should nc tl,orouph,y masticatcd,
Dir. Drinkwatcr considers IL nothing less than n
crime" TO feed Young children upon starChv food.
ms with them the saliva Glands do not net. He
suggests how IN cooking the drawback 10 the use
OF starchv foods may he overcome. He cites toast
ms an example. A bread 1t il n starrhv food:
but in t24sting the starch is turned into dnx;
trinc. which IL soluble and partly diVes'"d
starch. He would aDply the same method IN tho
making OF n tapioca pudding. He would first
put the ~tnpioca into = dry dish and bake it for
trinc. and then pour on the milk. DR.. Drink
water is an ardent advocate. OF the use Of mnlt
power o! turning starch into sugar. just as the
sSiivn has and dH when a tsaspo2Hfnl Is PIT into
sult Is GeNtrine and sugar.
Tho return of Manson from the polar regions
and the interest his personality has aroused in
all parts Of the world arc. for the moment, at
tracing considerable attention to Norwegian
habits and customs. incidentally their CASTRO
monte tastes, IL thcy may be so called. have come
In for n fair share OF notice. From published
accounts It would appear that Norway Is not a
country that the gnstronome will care to visit in
search OF culinary delights. Dinner is served
about . p. NJ. md opens with u glass OF aqua
ritt". favored with anisced. This is supposed TO
assist tho digestion: Fish. game. and hors d'Pu-
vrcs ARE good. Int the meat. particularly beet. is
Amos, UNBEATABLE by foreigners on account OF its
exceeding toughncss. A great variety of wines
is served Mt dinners: sometimes rs many as
fourteen classes arc found at each plate. each Of
liquor before the rcnast is concimdcd. The claret
Is noted for its excellence. OF this the best may
tc procured IN Norway. even At common tHvcrrs.
on account Of the extensive trade carried on he
tween that country and Bordeaux. At the close
OF n dinner there Is served II most i%nsidions bev-
era.c called Swedish punch. As this follows
copious ~lihations OF liquors. tho stranger. unless
iorcwarncd. Is apt nftcr a glass or two to lapse
made OF molasscs and rum with some other in
Eredicnt that enhances its potency.
A very rich Frenchman called "Psrc" Cha
ralIcr made his fortune by utilizing the stale
brcnd Of Paris, not only that which camc d.
rcCtly from households but also that found
among the gnrbapc o; the city. Chapalicr WAS
n manufactures OF broad crumbs. He pulverized
the stale bread collected by a multitude OF
agents, and either sold tho crumbs to restau-
rants for kitchen uso or rcmouldcd and baked
them in the form of loavcs for the poor.
Lord Beaconsfeld described trufles as look
Ing like rotten potatoes and tasting like lucifer
matches" II this were the popular estimate
there would not he at this time tons Of trufios.
worth about $25o.ooO, in one dark cellar in
london. every pound Of which may be sold In
the market for from $3.50 to 80. This cellar is tho
central depot for the storage OF tho fungus for
the supply of London. The host sorts como from
the vicinity OF bordeaux and Marseilles. These
sometimes sell Tor $40 n pound. Tho price de-
ponds entirely urnn whether n severe frost comes
early or late. In 1895 the first condition prevailed
and truffics were costly and scarce. In 1906
frost was late. consequently at the present time
the price H. moderate and the supply ample.
English ~trutlcs found in Hampshire. Wiltshire,
and DOrsrtshire are largely substituted for tho
French sort. They are much inferior both as to
s2c md pungency of flavor. Recently, il Is as
serted. truftlcs of II superior quality have hcen
found in California;. Dogs trained to hunt them
ont nrc to M imported In order that the value of
the discovery may he learned. These animals.
Of the French. poodle variety. arc now used cX-
clnsiyely for this purpose in the place of hogs.
which were formerly employed.
Tho death in England by dclirium tremons Of
a noted tcototallor, through tho excessive use
OF so-callcd non-alcoholic drinks, has caused an
investigation of the subject to he made by tho
Daily Mail. A distinguished physician In an
interview reveals to a reporter OF tho journal
quoted tho outcome OF his experience. ~ am
inclined to Think" no says, that II large pro-
portion of tho drinkers of supposed non-stimu-