The record-union., 1897-08-22

points, appliques, etc, upon a fancy
waist and decorated girdles. Vandyke
colIarettes. sleeve-cuffs, etc, cannot be
the least sighted in adjusting carefully
stitch by stitch each particular scallop
point and curve of intricate trimming
A noted uptown modiste recently COM
pleted some pretty waists composed oi
alternate rows of either moire or vel
vet ribbon and lace insertion, with CIR
die and collar to match. These We're
unlined, to be worn over different slip
underbodices with various skirts, fol
the economical plan of making one Oh
two black silk or satin skirts do as a
foundation for any number of separate
waists is likewise eliminated from the
designers methods, which are obvious
ly intended to favor the dressmakers.
Flemish laces wrought on delicate net
grounds are much used to trim mulls
organdies, ecru lawns, and similar
transparent fabrics. With these toilets
late in the afternoon, at various sum
mer resorts, are worn pretty little
pleated ruclres made very full and wide
and formed of silk batiste chiffon OF
stances these are finished with long
medium-wide scarf-like ends edged with
ungathered or very slightly gathered
frills of the Flemish lace.
The French mohairs are finer, softer
and silkier of surface than they have
ever been, but in dark colors or black;
they are no longer considered dressy
GOWNS. to be lined with colored Silks
and decorated in various ways, but are
relegated to the reign of utility fabrics
Last year they had an astonishing in
ming, and were lined with mauve, ce-
rise, green, blue and other rich silks,
and worn by matronly women. 1t Is
very popular stiM for the reason that
it looks cool, it has a silky finish, II
hangs we'll, wears wonderfully, and al
ways appears ladylike. The silk lin
ings, the pretty bodice effects, and the
dainty sleeves now worn, would, how
ever. make even a dress of sackcloth
attractive Just these minor but potent
details of the toilet are what have made
Partisan dress famous the world over
French women are aware that these
ures of a really perfect toilet. 1t is not
always the money spent on costly fab
RIGS and garnitures that proves most
effective, but the numberless little
points of finish which every we'll
dressed woman insists upon in planning
and carrying out the successful and art
istic costumes and toilets of to-day.
Three light puffs of hair deftly ar
ranged around a bunch of short airy
curls-a style chronicled in the Even
ing POST notes early in the spring-is
getting favor both here and abroad
among evening coiffures and also for
fashionable afternoon entertainments.
The rest of the hair is waved and light
ly dressed, a cool loose effect being
the latest expression of Partisan taste
for the summer regarding hair-dress-
ing. This coiffure is arranged in the
center of the head at the back, but
where it is found particularly becom-
ing a soft wide braided coil of hair is
substituted for puffs, and this encir-
cles the light curls, which must number
either three or five, one or two being
considered "dowdy."
The very pronounced taste for linens,
lawns, piques, fancy etamines and can
vas goods has extended even to tailor
gowns, much to the detriment of the
various stylish wooden fabrics which
have served almost exclusively for
them hitherto. Grass linens, dimities,
ducks and English cords in white, blue,
cream, tan and ecru, are all used for
morning tailor costumes for the coun-
try and fashionable watering places,
and the cut is almost precisely the same
as that of any tailor costume of cloth,
cheviot or tweed. The suit comprises a
skirt, with Tapped and stitched seams,
close about the hips, full at the back,
and only moderately expanded towards
the hem, and either a short basque
bodice or bolero or Eton jacket, open
ing on a pretty pleated shirt waist of
some scrt.
White mohair still holds its own
among favored summer textiles. A
white mohair gown worn upon the
beach by a very pretty young lady
from Philadelphia is made with a
blouse bodice. the front in pleats, but
not 1t all baggy Over this is worn a
large sailor collar of white batiste
edged with fine ecru guipure The
sleeves are extremely tight to the ell
bow and fastened up the outside of
the arm with tiny stitched silk straps
and little pearl and gold buttons. The
gored skirt is lined with green taffeta
and stitched pieces of white silk trim
med with the buttons, starting from the
belt ended in points at different points
on each side of the front breadth. A
white sailor hat. banded with ecru rib
bon, a pongee parasol lined with green.
and ecru suede gloves complete this
dainty afternoon costume.
There is a persistent effort in certain
fashionable quarters TO carry on the
rather feeble revival of early Victorian
fashions. In Victorian styles of the
bodice and Of dress skirt trimmings a
few have been taken up; but in these
days Of severe criticism. and the keen
American eye to the ridiculous this
far-reaching poke bonnet has had and
will have a hard time of it with its
huge wired frame, short back and
little Charlotte Russo crown. 1t may
do most charmingly for a beautiful
matron OF fiower-faced girl at a gar