The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-01-19
OVER THE TEACUPS.
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AS early as last autumn the fiat went
forth that head-dresses of tulle and
feathers. nearly as large as small bon
nets, were to be worn with evening
gowns The first that appeared looked
altogether too Outre, but these same
head dresses appear quite small in
comparison with the ones that are now
used.
For full dress. the hair is arranged
almost always in pOmpadour style, and
so high is the pOmpadour that the hair
behind it does not come any higher,
but. on the contrary, is fiattened down
on the crown of the head, and around
| the sides and back; as well as in the
front is drawn out to give the full, wide
look. 1t is almost impossible to have
| it of sufficient height without using
cushion or rat underneath, but il
can be done if the hair is very thick
| by pulling the locks forward wetting
them with some tonic, and then tying
fillet of linen very tightly about the
head and leaving it on until the moist
ure of the tonic is died out This, if
the hair be thick soft and fluffy, will
produce wondrous results.
When the hair has been arranged
and the head looks the desired size
there comes the question of what is
to be put in it. OF cOu Je there are al
ready at least three side-combs and
several ornamental shell pins, but these
GO not amount to anything.
Just below the crown of the head, at
the left side, must be placed some or
nament not less than six inches in
height; two marabOut feathers start
ing from q pOmpon of tulle and dia-
mond crescent or star are quite chic:
one ostrich plume or two or three
osprey feathers are also the thing
while quaint dragOn-flies or butterflies
of spangled chiffon are used sometimes
instead Of the tulle. and then, in place
of the feathers. are aigettes. Bows of
twisted velvet ribbon of every conceiv-
able color form the foundation for bird
of-paradise tails, which ornaments are
also put on the left side, just below
the crown of the head. These last il
must be confessed. are more stylish
than becoming. Strangely enough, the
high feathers are becoming. and seem
to give a height that in some degree
mOdifies the too wide look Of the hair.
@ @ 9
The present fashion of lining dark
street dresses with light-colored silk
of some shade that goes well with the
color of the material is one of the IFost
stylish innovations. For a black skirt
rose pink should be used: with gray, a
pretty mauve; with green, ecru or |rn
color. AS the skirt fits backwards
and forwards while walking the lighter
ticularly fetching and dainty. Some
times the silk is merely used for an in
side ruffle for the skirt. The revers
cuffs and ripple are lined TO CORES
pond.
Revers, by the way, are much small
Ter and are as a rule. set higher up,
forming pretty finish to the bolero
jackets worn in the street. AS for
the ripple-it forms quite a new fea-
ture on winter garments. Unlike those
of last season, explains an up-tO-date
dressmaker, this accessory does not
go entirely around the waist, but ex-
tends across the back from the side
seams. thus gracefully filling up the
ugly hollow that most women have
Immediately below the waist line The
ripple is usually stiffened by interim
ing, so that it sets up pertly, fan fash
ion. Sometimes for evening wear it is
made of contrasting colors of fabrics
but for the street it should be of the
same material as the dress.
The use of leather is another fashion
able fad this season. Some OF the more
dressy cloth jackets are trimmed with
leather up the seams and around fle
collar and sleeve edges. The skin en-
ployed is somewhat heavier than suede
kid. and can be stitched by machine as
easily as silk or velvet Other outer
garments of broadcloth or melton have
the portion below the waistline and the
upper part as far as the top Of the bust
braided in fancy patterns. with gold or
copper tinsel occasionally woven in
The sleeves of this kind of Jacket are
braided in the same way, to
simulate deep cuffs.
q
On imported street toilets. doe, cham
OILS or reindeer leather is being extens-
lively used. 1t is either plain or en-
broidered with gold and silver. and
more rarely in brilliant colors 1t Will
hardly become common for a few
months at least, as it is very expensive.
It seems that all kinds of toilets
from tea gowns and Jackets to evening
jacket fronts and bo-
leros. Some of these boleros are ar
ranged TO fasten in double breasted
fashion across to the left shoulder Ne
right side being cut in a curve, and the
left square and coming below the fas-
tening. A novel evening waist has an
overpiece, composed of alternate rows
of black MORE krimmer and white silk
gupure, which is inserted in the right
shoulder seam of the waist and hangs
straight and seamless nearly TO the
the closing being effected in
the left shoulder and under arm seams.
The waist Itself is of cerise taffeta,
with close fitting sleeves. the shoulder
having a small puff. The sleeves are
laid in deep horizontal tucks their en-
tire length, and a folded girdle sets
closely to the figure from the waistline
to Just below the bust. Silk Guipire
finishes the high neck and falls over
the hands from the lower edge Of the