The Sauk Centre herald. (Sauk Centre, Stearns County, Minn.) 1886-current, 1897-12-23

Poor.
1t is almost impossible to say when
the custom began of celebrating Christ
mas with sumptuous feast. 1t is GER
tain, however, that the observance has
never lapsed since English history be-
gan. Whistlecraft, writer who delved
deeply among the traditions and records
of the reign of King Arthur of the
Round Table, describes the Christmas
dinner of that day in verse:
They served up salmon venison and wild
By hundreds and by dozens and by scores,
Hogsheads Of honey. kilderkins OF mustard.
Muttons and fatted beeves and bacon swine.
Herons and hitterns. peacock. swans and bus
tard,
1,eal mallard. pigeons, widgeons and, in fine.
Plum buildings. pancakes. apple pies and Gus
tard.
And therew,thal they drank good Gascon wine.
With mead and ale and cider OF our own.
For porter. punch and negus were not known
This bill of fare is doubtless more
poetic than accurate. yet it is not far
out of the way. One notable omission
Is that of the wassail bowl, for wassail
though it was drink of the ancient
Druids of the third century and prob
ably earlier, was for many hundred
years a fayorite British drink and came
to be distinctive feature of Christmas
feasts 1t was first made of ale. Or what
was then considered ale, sweetened with
something that did duty for the more
modern sugar just what that was is
today unknown, but it was sweet. Then
there was toast. aDd there were roasted
crabs, pat kissing hot into the bowl--a
queer drink. but such as it was it was
liked
AS time went by the recipe was va
ried till. perhaps 1000 years or so
later. the wassail bowl was filled with
wine. we'll warmed and splced, with
toasted bread and roasted apples Ii
wine were not obtainable, ale was used,
hut the apples were deemed indispensa
BILE and reilly seem to have been al
Improvement on crabs. Doubtless 1t
was the white pulp of the apples that
gave yyasEail its nickname OF Lamb S
wool, " and it was therefore an anach-
roIism that crept into the account OF
King Arthur's feast when the boy with
the mantle cast spell over the table,
for 1t is told that Oh that occasion only
one knight found his sword sharp
enough to carve the boar's head or his
hand steady enough to lift the lambs
wool without splitting it.
1t will DO noticed that King Arthur
haa neither turkeys nor geese, though
both of them are now distinctive fea-
turcs of the Christmas feast. The tur-
key was not taken TO England from
the east till the sixteenth century, and,
though the goose was known before. his
gaStronOnlic value seems not to have
been discovered
But if Arthur's feast seems gargan-
tgan it was II frugal repast compared
with those that came later Gervase
Markham describes a moderate din
ner'' Of about A. D. 1900 that would
answer FOR Christmas in the following
amazing way:
THE ficSG course should consist Of l6
full dishGs-that is, dishes Of meat that
are of substance and not empty or for
show-aS thus. for example: First, a
shield of braun with mustard; second
~, boyld capon; thirdly, boyl'd
piece Of bee; fourthly, a chine of beef
rested; filthy, IL heats tongue rosted;
sixthly. pig rosted; seventhly, chew
cts baked; eighthfy. q goose rested;
ninthly, a swan rested; tenthly, tur-
kew rosted; the eleventh, haunch of
yenison rested; the twelfth, a pasty of
ye,ison; the thirteenth, kid with a
pudding in the belly; the fourteenth,
AN olive-pye: the fifteenth, couple Of
capons; the sixteenth, custard or dow
sets Now, to these full dishes may be
added sallots fricases, qUelque chooses
and devised paste. as mauy dishes more,
which make the full service no less
than two and thirty dishes, which is as
much as can conveniently stand Oh one
table and in one mess. And after this
manner you may proportion both yoCr
second and third courses, holding full
ness on one half of the dishes and show
in the other, which will be both frugal
in the splendour, contentment to the
guest and much pleasure and delight to
the beholder. "
Surely a moderate dinner" like that
would make lord mayors banquet
seem stingy. yet there is ample evidence
that such feasts were not uncommon
Tin that elder day" Not every one,
however, set such table. even when he
could afford it, for Pepys records din
ner given to the poor by Sir George
Downing one Christmas at which moth
ing was served but beef. porridge. pud-
ding and pork. 1t may have been better
than the recipients usually had for
everyday fare, but they voted it mean
entertainment for Christmas
The boar's head. as is we'll known,
was for hundreds of years the piece de
resistance of every we'll regulated Brit
ish Christmas feast, and it has been
held by some writer's that it became the
favorite because of IA general desire to
protest against the Jewish prohibition
of pork A niore probable reason is that
the boar was the tiercest Of all the wild
beasts of the country. and killing him
was the highest achievement OF the
huntsman. Then, again, his head is
very good to eat.
STL.tcver the reason, the great dish
we se..ed with great pomp. 1t was
sa, yta forgotten poet wrote: