davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

and the "beefy' bicycle rider who has
developed bullying calves NAV make
quite an impressive appearance, even in
his business clothes Some Of the men
who belong to the swell sporting clubs
had their trousers cut that way last
spring, and the innovation gained many
admirers among the good dressers whd
haunt Fifth avenue; so this fall the
scant, clinging trousers appear on the
fashion plates and will soon be made by
tallors all over the country.
The coat furnishes another index as
to the age Of the suit. If it is of this
seasons construction, it will have no
outside breast pocket.
Just what has happened to cause this
particular pocket to be abolished is not
apparent 1t was of no particular util.
lty, for the practice Of using it as a re-
ceptacle for half concealed handl1er.
chief was long ago tabooed by the stick.
Iers for small points in STYLE. But in
some way it interfered with the sym
metry of the new suit, and 50 it had to
go.
Among other details concerning the
stylish coat may be mentioned the fact
that it is somewhat shorter In cut
always, for instance, the tails should
not come within four Or five inches of
the knee break in the trousers Then.
while plenty of room is left for the ex-
pansion of the manly chest, it should fit
close about the hips In other words, the
coat tapers, too, something as the trou-
sers do.
Getaways made Of Scotch goods for
business wear sometimes have side pock-
cts with flaps. Coats of this sort should
always be worn with trousers and vest
OF the same material.
The rage for fancy vests is somewhat
abating The secret Of it is that the
fancy vest business has been run into
the ground. They were made too cheap
Iy, OF all sorts Of stulfs and being COM
mon they lost caste. There is, however,
a great demand for them, and this has
been met by the production of some
novelties for fall and winter wear.
Those which are expected to be most
POPNi'eA c-O 0CNCAN4J DIdIl InSy dI6
made Of lightweight meltons and Eng
lish fiannels. Of course the figured ones,
those with startling designs, will be
worn in some places-on the Bowery
perhaps While the fancy vest may be
cut high or low, according to fancy the
suit vest will show less shirt front than
ever this year, being cut rather high.
When the fashionable man dons his
new evening clothes, he will have a de-
cidedly military bearing This is be-
cause the new full dress trousers have
a strip of black silk braid, from one to
three-quarters of an inch wide, down
the outside seams of the leg The' tails
of the clawhammer are an inch or two
shorter and do not reach the knee break
by several inches. The lapel should be
faced clear to the edge with dull fin
ished silk and the collar should be
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03
90 YouWa9ta8iogole?

Now is the time to go to work for
that bicycle.
The offer is open to all.
Remember it will be a high grade,
'9S model, 500 wheel-no cheap de-
vice to deceive the contestants.
Here's the plan:
The person bringing in the largest
number of paid subscriptions to The
TIMES between now and December "a,
1897, will be awarded a bicycle, such
as the one described above.
The person bringing in the second
largest number Will get a costly prize,
to be announced later; so will the
third.
By paid subscriptions are meant
those which are accompanied by the
cash. Credit subscriptions will not
be counted.
Paid subscriptions may be for any
length of time. A subscription for
one month, with so cents, Will entltle
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

lin M" OICOAA' business train
ing. But | insisted that there must be
some tangible points Of distinction by
which he drew his comparison. WANTED
to know those points, so that |, too, could
draw comparisons-could lay the rule, so
to speak, over the men who thrCngcd the
west side of upper Broadway at the
time when the afternoon parade was on
and apply an infallible test to preten-
tious male apparel wherever it should
appear
He was an unwilling witness this
fashionable tailor He did not relish at
all the idea Of coldly dissecting the
principles which govern the we'll
dressed man Of the fag end of 1897,
but he compromised by talking long
and eloquently about the details of the
new modes for men, and in this way
found out what wanted to know.
The fashionably dressed man of today
looks like an athlete.
He tapers-that is, his shoulders are
broad and square, for his tailor sees to
that if nature has not done the work
and his outlines from his shoulders
down are almost those of an elongated "
The trousers make the change They
are cut tighter than they have been for
a decade
This is one Of the most radical
changes we have had in male attire for
some time. Understand, we have not
got back to the skin tights" of dozen
years ago. Not so bad as that, but we
are drifting in that direction. The re-
ductiOn i'll the width of the trousers leg
since the exaggerated bags were fash
ionable has been so gradual as hardly
to be noticed from year to year until
now. The reason is that the tailors have
been taking off little each season I'M
til the trousers leg got down to normal
size and could not stand another cut
without the reduction being noticed.
That's the way most fashions origi
nate after all The masculine mind does
not look favorably upon radical changes
in clothes. They have to be made so
gradual as not to excite opposition.
There is no all powerful dictator who
sends out in midsummer an edict as to
what men should wear. Mr. Poole of
London, with all his Wanted reputa-
ton, could not do it. Perhaps some
people think that Mr.. Mitchell Of New
York, who publishes the fashion plates,
is the arbiter, but he isn't. He merely
sees which way the tide is setting and
sends out all illustrated bulletin. He
serves as a sort of fashion observer and
his bulletins are read by the tailors
with the same interest that the sailors
read the reports of the weather observ-
er; only the fashion observer seems to
be far more successful.
But the origin of a fashion is some
thing that can seldom be traced as can
the beginning of an epidemic. Undoubt
edly a score or more New Yorkers who
spend much thought, time and money
on their clothes have more to do with
setting the fashions than any other in
dividuals, and even in their cases their
tailors, their Wallets, or still more OBJ
scure persons may deserve the credit
But once started style spreads If it
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

the contestant to one vote for the BIZ
cycle; two months and 81 to two votes
three months and $1.25 to three votes;
six months and $3.50 to six votes; one
year and $500 to twelve votes. One
vote for the bicycle for each month.
The offer is open to all. Either a
gentleman's or lady's wheel will be
given, as may be desired. The second
and third prizes Will be we'll worth
trying for.
The award Will be made on next
Christmas day, and the prizes given
at once. Costly Christmas gifts for
little work.
Let the bright boys and girls OF
Brunswick go to work at once to win
this wheel. All the information,
sample copies ETC., necessary for can
vassers will be furnished at the TIMES
office.
Contestants can enter at any time.
Don't let such good chance slip.
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

less bag at the knee is done away with.
Some novelties in fall haberdashery
are worth mentioning had thought
the madras outing shirts in Scotch
checks and plaids of lurid colors the
most unquiet articles of male apparel
which could possibly be devised, but
was mistaken A Broadway dealer
showed me some shirts of French fan
mel the other day in comparison with
which the others seemed positively sub
dued. These new offenses were Scotch
plaids of large design and the most vivid
colors. Blue, green, scarlet, orange and
violet ran riot in crisscross lines Worst
of all, they are made with white linen
bands so that hunting stock and col
lar may be worn with them. These
hunting stocks, by the way, are OF
equally glazing designs. If we could be
sure that they would be worn only Oh
the golf links, no one would mind them,
but the bicyclist penetrates everywhere
in his outing clothes, and so we must
be prepared to meet at any corner plaids
which would make Scotchman deny
his native heath and set Sioux Indian
wild with envy.
One of the novelties in neckwear is
the bat wing tie. 1t is an improvement
on the narrow club or string tie, for it
is so shaped that when tied the knot is
small, but the ends have fare which
has long been desired. A new four-in-
hand only an inch and half or an inch
and quarter wide is another novelty.
These, with the long knot tecks, the
ascots and the puffs, will be most worn.
The colors and the designs are more
subdued than they were last year, for
the rage for glaring, striking colors has
reached its limit.
New driving gloves are made with
ribbed palms and some of them have
narrow grips Of rubber sewed to the
palms.
Lisle thread and silk golf stockings
for men are novelties too. The leg is
made plain, but the cuff shows either a
figured or a plaid design.
The new fall derby has f1atter crown
than that Of last year and it is frac-
ton of an inch lower. the brim is
really no narrower, but is curled more
tightly and that has the same effect 1t
has what is known as the three-quarter
round curl
But the silk hat has undergone a
still more decided change. It is mile
shorter than last year. At any rate it is
not SO high by fully three-quarters of
an inch. The crown has an increased
bell, but it is not the Prince of Wales
hat by long shot. His royal highness
may have a hat made of pigskin and
painted green if he wishes, but the
American halter makes his own styles.
The silk band has been discarded for
a cloth one, and men Of middle age
wear black cloth band as wide as an
inch and quarter if they wish, al
though young men should wear narrow
er bands
For afternoon wear the Homburg al
pine pearl gray soft hat with white
band is considered very dressy and is
about the only style of soft hat which
is generally worn by men who pay
much attention to their clothes.
There are a few other minor canons
which are recognized by earnest devo-
tees of style, but these are the chief
ones, and when you have thoroughly
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

"pealzed. Some men who are recog-
nized as authorities on dress have vel
vet collars on the coats of their evening
clothes, but this is a matter Of individ-
ual fancy.
The full dress vest is cut 50 low that
it has barely room for more than three
buttons, and tits fraction of an inch
wider than ever. The collar is outlined
by very narrow soutache braid.
With evening dress the inverness
cape coat is the proper caper. Mr.. Her
bert Kelley, the idol Of the matinee
girls and the living fashion plate for
the younger clubmen, says so, and ev-
cry New Yorker knows that Mr.. Kel-
cey's clothes are just about perfection.
But many men who know just as much
about good dressing as Mr.. Kelley have
Endorsed the inverness overcoat with its
protecting cape as the proper covering
for dress suit.
But this brings us to overcoats in
general, Speaking generally, they are
to be looser and shorter. Some of the
light topcoats for fall wear are very
short indeed. They do not exhibit, how
ever, that wealth Of bone button, strap
seam and rows of stitching which made
them so formidable last year. They are
plain, and the full backs, without seams
at all, show only baggy expanse of
cloth, which should fall from built up,
broadened shoulders, without the sus-
picion Of wrinkle. They are made
with fly fronts, and, like the coats,
have no breast pocket. Combined with
the narrow trousers they give even a
slight man muscular and athletic ap-
pearance.
The heavier winter coats are made
double breasted and should not come
much below the knee They have the
full back, too, and show only the side
seams.
A new surtout is being made for late
fall wear that will give the wearer the
appearance of retired military officer
Its two rows Of buttons are set on at an
angle instead of straight up and down,
the opening being toward the top. This
emphasizes the breadth Of the chest. So,
you see, the general tendency Of the tai
lor is to make US all look like athletes.
In the sporting line there is some
thing new in golf and bicycle trousers.
Instead of having buttoned cuff of
melton below the knee the new trousers
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

fixed them in your mind you can deter
mine whether the man. you meet is we'll
dressed or only extensively attired. Re-
member:
His silk hat should have a bell crown
and cloth band.
His shoulders should be square
His coat should be loose in the back
and snug around the hips.
His trousers should be shaped so az
TO closely follow the curves of the leg
And above all he should taper from
his shoulders to his toes and have the
general appearance Of football player
on dress parade.
If his appearance meets all these re-
quirements, then you can be satisfied
that he has seen both his tailor and hat
ter within the month and you can fall
to wondering how he does it on the sal
airy he gets. SEwELL FORD.
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

have cuff Of the same material as the
rest of the suit, and in place of being
buttoned it is laced. This gives neat
er appearance, and it is said to be far
more comfortable, both Of which fea-
lures will serve to make it popular as
well as fashionable. These new trou-
sers are fash ioned something on the Or
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03
THE WELL DRESSED MAN
His New Fall Clothes Make Him
Look Like an Athlete.
HE IS IN TIGHT TROUSERS AGAIN.

The Tailor Builds Up His Shoulders,
Makes His Goat Loose In the Back and
Snug at the Bottom and Shapes His
Trousers So That He Tape-s OF To-
ward the Ground Most SymmetricaIly
"Can you tell at glance whether a
man is dressed i'll clothes of tAe 1897
fall model or whether he is wearing a
suit of last season S mal1e?''
My sartorial friend smiled-one of
those easy, self confident, cocksure
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

is the fashion to have trousers l Z inch
es at the bottom instead Of IS, as they
We're cut the previous season, why
should it not be still more fashionable
to have them reduced to 16 inches?
That is about the average of the new
trousers. This means that the circumfer-
ence of the trousers at the bottom should
be IS inches. From this they increase
until at the knee they are IS or 10 inch'
es. They should be shaped to the leg,
The Brunswick times. [volume] (Brunswick, Ga.) 188?-1900, 1897-10-03

S m l | e S. He
makes clothes for
some Of the men
w h 0 IN N g W
Workers call the
best dressers in
town. - He has a
reputation as a
fashionable tai
| o IA II d he
charges for it in
his bills. So he
smiled.
"Of course I
can, he said.
y ssHoyv9,'
1t required no
little persuasion
to get him to
give a definite
answer. He tried
to d o d g e 10y
claiming that it
was instinct and
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

The Taylor Tribune refers to
the fact that up to twenty years
ago the grand old plantations
throughout the South were the
glory of a great and glorious
people. But unjust legislation
has made it impossible for men
to make money in agricultural
pursuits. Not long ago the
writer made tour through the
South and found many old, his
toric mansions now crumbling
and falling and the land around
them deserted. The driveways
were bleak and the trees along
them blackened and dead with
age, the doors and windows all
decayed and old darkies living in
the once great palaces. The
Tribune would be glad to see the
good times restored, and it can
only be done by honest legisla-
ton that makes it possible for
men who till the soil to receive a
just compensation for their labor.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09
THE FREE PUFF EVIL.

Portland undertakers have
arisen in their might and de-
clared that they will give no
more death notices to the news
papers unless their name ap-
pears as officiating. If this de-
mand is complied with, the doc
tor, liveryman and grave-dig-
ger are all entitled to a free ad.
and notice of a citizen might
read as follows: "The funeral
of John Jones occurred this
morning, and was the culmina-
ting triumph of the medical gen.
Jus. of DR.. Peters. After sharp
competition and a cut in estab-
lished rates the undertaking firm
of Smith & Smith was awarded
the contract of furnishing a
plain pine coffin, stained a rich
mahogany, with silver CD ham
dies and comfortably lined.
Price, 80 dollars, being $3.50
cheaper than any competitor.
(Smith is the place for cheap
coffins-paid local.) Rev. Do
little preached the sermon for
nothing and Bill Brown dug the
grave for a dollar less than the
usual price, because no hard pan
was encountered. The deceased
died in the full odor of sanctity
and cancer of the stomach, was a
good Methodist, politician, hus-
band and father. DR.. Peters
desires to announce to the public
that his patients do not always
to the ravages of dis
ease and his pills. Accidents
will happen" Then might fol-
low couple Of stanzas of tomb
stone poetry and a card of
thanks, and the newspapers
that of eternally putting
somebody or something for
lothing would be fulfilled.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

THE Granbury News, whose
editor has been a straight single
gold standard advocate, gives
his views of the duty of such
democrats in the following Ian
guage: "Free silver is the set
tied policy of the democratic
party until 1900, and no one
familiar with the trend of party
thought expects any change in
the national democratic platform
In 1900. So, whatever may be
the individual views of any
democrat on this question, he
must at least accept free silver
as authoritative party doc
trine. No great party principle
is involved in the question, but
merely one of policy and a man
may be a loyal party man with
out surrendering his individual
views as to its wisdom. How
ever, he cannot be loyal to his
party when he refuses to abide
the action of the majority and
refuses to support the nominees
of the party because a plank he
cannot endorse finds place in the
platform. No fundamental prin-
cipIe of government is involved,
and free silver may prove to he
a right policy. If right, the
democratic party will have won
the gratitude Of the nation by
pushing the question to the
front; If wrong, it will
have been simply mistake. At
least, the adoption of the silver
policy by our country cannot
bring about worse financial con-
ditions than at present exist, and
result in lettering economic
.hons.''
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09
CORN STALKS.
viii Be Worth So Ton or SIS Per Acre to
the Farmer.

Will Be. Worth 81 Ton or SIS Per Acre t
the Farmer.
Within a short time a man il
Tennessee has invented pro.
cess for making species Of
mating from cornstalks that is
far superior to anything yet dis
covered for packing behind the
armor plates of war ships, and
that can be supplied at handsome
profit to the trade at a lower
price than has been paid hereto
fore for other substances. This
invention set the chemist en-
ployed by the Cramps of Phila-
delphia to experimenting. He
explained that his chemist had
discovered that cornstalks could
be made worth 50 ton, or S. an
acre by mechanism which would
extract from them alcohol, eel
lulose, material for mattings,
carpets, paper, smokeless pow
der, and cattle food superior to
any other. The distinct benefits
to the farmers of the six great
corngrowing States of the west
would be over 1925, 100000 per
annum on an acreage of less than
100000. A few years ago
Southern cotton seeds were con-
sidered worthless. Today, thanks
to inventors and chemists, they
are worth many millions of dol
lars annually to the South, and
the products obtained from them
have been made the basis of new
and profitable industries. These
latter discoveries of what can be
obtained from cornstalks, will
add greatly to the wealth of
western corn growers.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09
Three Weddings.

The Free State metropolis is
second only to Brennan in at
fairs matrimonial, as indicated
by the following special of the
End inst:
Mr.. Ike Broaddus and Miss
Annie Bell were married yester-
day at the residence of Rev.
James, who officiated.
Last night Mr.. Robert Addi-
son was married to Miss Ellen
league, of Giddings, at. the
home of Rev. NJ. c. Taylor here,
who officiated.
Tuesday night Mr.. Julian Hill,
of this place, and Miss Lillian
Wallace were married at the
home of the bride at Quarry.
The New i ork morse show was
a very tame affair until Chicogo
man thumped a companion over
the head with wine bottle. At
ter all it takes something Chica-
goesque to make the mare and
the horse show go.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

REGARDING one point made in
Secretary Bliss report there can
scarcely be any difference of
opinion in Congress. Alaska
must be given an assured and
responsible government without
delay. A hundred thousand
persons may seek shelter within
her borders during the next
spring and summer. They must
be under the rule of law and
order.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

IT is extremely doubtful ii
Congress would consent to the
creation of a new State out of a
part of New York, whatever the
Legislature might say on the
subject. While on some ac-
counts it might be desirable to
divide a great State having a
preponderating influence in close
elections, it might cause greater
evils to create a new State of
which the second greatest city in
the world with all its slum and
other evil influences, should
have control.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09


TEXAS is now making rapid
strides in providing educational
facilities, says the Farmersville
Times. 1t is now spending S4,-
100000 year for schools. This
is quardruple the amount so in
vested in 1872. The amount
paid teachers in 1866, was
1914, 325.47 in excess of the
amount paid in 1912, and
S199, 100.73 more than the entire
for the schools for
the same period.
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

In discussing the existing re-
lations of gold and silver the
National Review says: .'The au-
dacious and unexampled attack
made upon silver twenty FIVE
years ago, the endeavor to revo-
lutionize the worlds measure OF
value in favor Of creditors and
against producers by excluding
that metal from its old place as
the equal colleague of gold, has
created divergence between the
two metals unexampled inmodern
history, from which divergence
endless confusion and suffering
and injustice has arisen. By
halving the supply OF money it
has been sought to double its
so halving of property and
produce, and doubling the weight
Of debts.''
Brenham weekly banner. [volume] (Brenham, Tex.) 1877-1907, 1897-12-09

THE American Woodworking
Machinery company has just
been organized at WilIiamsporty
Pa, and will control fourteen
concerns manufacturing seven
eighths of the woodworking ma
chinery produced in the United
States. The capital of the organ
ization is So, 800, 600.