The times., 1897-04-11

1T is called picture dressing and is the re-
suit of careful studies made 10y modistes Of
portraits of women painted by Famous
artists There is no particular style that
governs this newest method of selecting
costumes. except the individuality OF Ohe
person who is TO wear what is sought
The effect is invariably successful. a
recent instance of this was the case OF
very graceful young woman, VINO wore
dress copied from one seen ia palhllhs
by Sir Joshua Reynolds This dress was
in veiIed lace. and boasted or uail
cleverly disposed like regal man'ie ol
red velvet, a deep Venetian royal RED, thdo
matched the liquid light oil ruhles. one
very pleasant feature of this idea is thhu
il enables the use OF costumes worn ever
so long ago. and which the owners had
nossibly believed TO be so thoroughly out
of style that it would be hopeless TO Try
to utilize them. 1t is a fact that any
style. if il is only a picture dress, VIII
do. always provided il is becoming, ana
has resulted in many fashionable wo-
man saving half her usual wardrobe eN-
penSes.
There is nothing difficult about follow
ing this fashion. All that one neeu TO 90
is to visit the portrait section OF SOME arl
gaIlpry ana there find the picture OF some
lady OF loag ago robed IN fashion WHICH
will be truly becoming to the VISITOR
Then she can say when she dons her new
gown, even though it be an old one IiNeu
over. that she had it made after the
stvle of the dress worn by one OF heladies
whom Sir Joshua Reynolds had painted,
or that it was an exact copy OF the ature
of a Gainsborough beauty. Certainly III
is a very clever fad, and as TINS Is lhe
season Of economy, or rather the year ol
it, every woman should hail the idea Win
extreme satisfaction.
II looks more and more as IL embroidery
was going to play more important part
than ever in evening dress. Plain skirts
will surely look conspicuous. The en-
broidery is filling up the hiatus between
the absence of any trimming at all ana
draped and trimmed skirts which are
coming our way, slowly II may be, buI
surely. The effect of these long lines OF
fine work in velvet outlined with silver,
crystal and brilliants up the seams, Is
excellent 1t gives height 10 the ngure
and inheritance to the skirt, part OF our
dress which, during the epoch ofYolumlnous
sleeves was somewhat neglected, save
oulv SO far as fit and cut were concerned.
At uresence the balance is much more
equal, nd this is greatly to our a advantage
mis- fashion, too, thatis kind to women
who are not tall, and is also not altogether
out of place with those unfortunate persons
vho are inclined to stoutneSs, while they
lack in height. OF course, there is wide
range in embroidery and dress may oe
made as costly as one pleaSeS, but the idea
Is canable of being utilized by all OF us
whose purses are as short as our wants are
long.
Then. too. there are many effective sub
stitutes for embroidery. One of these,
which can recommend, is chene gauze
ribbon The design may be outlined ana
5eweled at home, and the effect is all
that could be desired. Then there are
1etted and ieweled gallons, which may be
used over and over again 1t is said, too
that before long tapering sprays of EN-
broidery will be sold all ready TO apply TO
the seams Of the evening gowns. There
are already these in lace which can be
wrought with brilliants at intervals, and
thus made exceedingly effective.
The bolero coat has really become eX-
tremely fashionable. 1t may be that tins
popularity VIII prove its death, but just
at present it promises 10 be worn as gen
orally the Eton Jacket was in its palnlest
davs. Every where it is in evidence, made
in the cheapest as well as the most costly
materials While it is not strictly rev
as an article of wear, it is quite so as q
fashion. which, a. have said, amounts at
the present time almost to a craze. IL is
in fact one of the curiosities OF clothes
because il is something exceedingly Tying
to anv but the neatest and dainiest OF
figures.
For the woman who wants TO wear what
is called a smart coat, there is one Just
beginning to be worn of the Chesterfield
shane, that is exceedingly comfortable
and stylish at the same time. The skirts
are not Iiued, SO that while warm, they are
not heavy The top portion does not fit
tightly. for it Just follows the lines of the
figure Tie seams are all strapped, and
that around the waist is not straight,
but curved upward over thehips andpointed
down ward under two buttons at the back,
and again toward the pockets in front.
This is a clever device to give due APP
nearance of length and slendeness 10 he
figure The skirts are wide, and there is
thus plenty of room for the dress ben 'ath
The collar is strapped and faced with
and piped with velvet. The garment can
be either single or double breasted, tie
former being perhaps newer and smarter,
The body portion is lined with very fine
wooden Kersey.
Among the new spring mantles is a
mantelet in black MORE, with a pat
tern of silk grenadne applique and edged
with sequns Large volants form the
sleeves, edged with Lace falling over
puffed cream chiffon. The hat should be
of straw with bouquets Of primulas and
foliage, as well high bows in green and
maUve. A very smart cape is in black
poult de sole, the tght-fitting bodice
with the fine guipure embroidery on
linen The volants are of k:'teG black
lace and grass lawn The collar is nigh,
and made of plisse and lace. The jabot is
OF black lisSe with cream gUipurc applique
The hat which accompanies this cape
should be of mauve satin straw, the crown
encircled by roSettes in velvet and satin
noire ribbons in harmonious colors. High
bows and eucalyptus leaves add to its
charm. At the back there should be
clusters Of roses In shaded pink
One of the most fashionable jackets is
the satin Sultane, 1t has box pleat
down the back, and the braces are of fine
jet. The zouave waistband is of folded
silk, and the sleeves are with fulled ep-
aulettes. The appropriate dress for the
head with this Jacket S toque in rale
green braid, with sequins and beads. The
crown is formed Of mercury, richly stud
ded with beads and seQuins. A handsome
osprey feather is over all.