The record-union., 1897-10-17

and aplomb wholly its own, and to be
found in no other style of dress. In
the present exhibit we see many Of
the strictly conventional models, with
fitted untrimmed jacket and plain, un-
decorated skirt. perfect, however, in
all the minor points of a tailor gown
but in close proximity are French cos
tunes showing many fascinating con-
cessions in the way of open jacket ef-
fects, allowing of constant and va
ried change of waistcoat, fanciful
touches on the sleeves, braid trimmed
basque pieces and oddly slashed plas-
tron fronts with arabesques and scroll
patterns at the edges, with matching
garnitures on the skirt. Many of these
braid and galloon decora tions simulate
overskirts. long, short, pointed, rounded
or slashed The trim, familiar tailor
jacket has this season a score Of rivals
in the form of jaunty little basquines,
French guard jackets with military
braiding and novel jacket bodices and
Muscovite shapes, with loose, seamless
fronts and fitted backs. Other models
show a series of tiny fronts like three
French garcon slips in graduated sizes
put on one above the other each sep
arate piece trimmed with wide and
narrow braids and small tailor buttons
Exceedingly smart tailor costumes of
dark military blue habit cloth are dec
Grated with scroll-work designs formed
Of very narrow bias bands of black
satin, stitched at the edges and show
ing black picot finish in fine silk maid
beneath the stitching. Soutache and
Milan braids in rows crossing the waist
and skirt in squares, points, arabesques
or trefoil devices appear on some of
the latest French creations Just re-
ceived.
Regarding sleeves, the latest French
designs show the same funnel-shaped
styles, little mutton leg models. coat
forms with pretty diminutive apologies
for shoulder decorations in the form of
Hungarian caps-covered with silk cord
passementeries enapplique, slashed tops
with interstices of some rich contrast
ing color and mousquetaire shapes for
women with over slender arms-these
wrfnllled from shoulder to wrist The
foundation or basis of most of the
prevailing modes is a closely fitting
shape, encasing the arm like a long,
tight glove. The decorations vary con-
stantly, as each modiste tries her art
at davising new effects for each of her
patrons, SO that no two shall be Just
alike.
Black materials will be greatly fa-
vored during the fall and winter sea-
sons, and a special and very elaborate
display of elegant black fabrics is made
at the various importing houses. Many
fancy weaves are shown, but the stand
ard black textiles brought to such ex-
quislte perection have their own de-
cided attractions. The outlook indi-
Gates an even greater demand for
handsome black textiles than was ex-
perienced year ago, when this color
so widely prevailed. The smooth fin
ished cloths in black and in all the
new fashionable colorings are pre-em-
inently handsome, both in texture and
weave, and the choice as to color is
almost unlimited. Many of the ex-
pensive patterns are deeper In tone
than they have been for several sea-
sons past.
The hair is just now being worn so
high at the back that it disappears un-
der the hat altogether, and very fire.
quently takes the form of loops and
coils of hair, standing up so high that
they are distinctly visible in the front
view of the face. The lower part of
the hair at the back is left quite loose
and kept in position by semicircular
side-combs in tortoise shell for day.
light, and outlined with diamonds for
evening wear.
Basques are slowly but surely coming
in, much to the delight of all women
who do not boast of the figure of a
sylph. And skirts set over the bodice
good half inch below the curve of
the waistline are very becoming to such
A ;sirdle of folded silk rather high
about the waist, buttoned with fancy
buttons down on one side, is of black
taffeta, the skirt of beige crepe de
chine, fulled over cord and dropped a
bit below the waistline The top of
the gown is shirred into the shoulder
seams and tucked inside the high cein-
ture in easy folds, a sort of fichu of the
beige crepe de chine being crossed
knot and bow one one side of the bust
and edged with line of black taffeta
and narrow beige and gold fringe.
The crepe sleeves are rucked and
slightly pouched at their tops, while
deep, tight cuffs Of black taffeta reach
almost to the elbows. This frock is
built over cerise silk, and a great scarf
of eerise tulle covered with tulle ties
in big bow under the chin.
A loose dust cloak, or racing cloak.
Is OF natural colored linen, fitted be-
hind, straight in front, and having a
round collar of this embroidered sack
ing. with two slender bands continu-
ing along the sides of the open fronts.
The collar is edged with pelisse frilI
of white taffeta, and a small rolling
collar turns down upon this of India
red silk, with which the cloak Is lined.
glRn