The times., 1897-11-26
New Styles Revealed by the
Great Show in New York.
MAGNIFICENT DRESS PARADE
The Victorian and the Pheasant
Hats Garry Off the Palm Tor
Beauty and Smartness-Richw Win
ter Shirt Waists Are Seen in the
iorninr-NoveIties in Furs.


portant dress parades in the month of
November. Women continue to come
from all parts of the country, presun-
ably TO see the horses, but, in reality,
each one to show her cwn pretty feathers.
and see what the other women are Wear
Ing. Therefore, it is yet safe 10 pre-
dct that whatever is seen at this equine
fete is apt rc become the established mode
ftI tie winter.
For example, anyone who has been to
tho show VIII come away convinced that
thc victorian bonnet is one of The most
important types of headgear, SO many
were the women VINO wore them. They
appeared in TIE morning, afternoon, and
In tie cycumC, with the sort of gown
that adorna he theater. There Were sOnc
small eict0rmns, chiefly OF beaver, and
SpEl,c very large ones, made all of vel
vet. tilat j. called pIisse, beca use it is
eivtI & SHRED surfaCe III the manufacture
ODe and all these bonnet shapes were
trimmed, inside OF the brim and out on
the crown, with crushes of bright silk,
TusIn OF velvet roses, and an abundance
or bows and kuots OF satin ribbon \
victorian bonnet is never minus exc eedingly
long satin strings. cut with forked ends
and tying directly under the center Of
the chin.
To woman whose looks lean in the
least toward the picturesque these ilonnets
are essentially becoming, and especially are
they to he recommended for the ease with
which the least artful hand can, with
handful OF roses and a little ribbon, trI.n
"a beaver shape most bceominGly. Hats
made entirely OF uliSSe velvet or felt hats
faced with this material were nearly all.
as seen at the show. very wide, turned up
rather sharply 10 one side, tn b-im fastened
back with an ornamental piu and the dec
0ration Eiaiuly Of ostrich feathers.
An interesting oddity, many examples
OF which were seen, was the hat trimmed
on one side wholly in green and exactly
the remaining half in black, or one-hali
IA violel velvet and bouquets or the fIov
ers, tbe other half in white wings aud
pure white silk. Sharp as this contrast
may sound, the effect was not in toe
least uupieasing.
In placp Of binding the plain felt hats
with velvet, a narrow band of fur was
Used, nct only Astrakhan, Persian laIlb
and Thihet, hut beaver plucked and Uu-
plucked, Alaska sable, shiny black lynx,
blue fox, ermine, mink and chinchilla,
all were pressed into service, and, though
the binding is the very ughtest roll of
skin adjusted To the very edge Of the hat,
il eJinss soft, becoming frame 10 thC
face, so that 4 ny woman should t. : il.
Except for tie binding, fur was Sparingly
use5 in EaG decoration at this years 5 show,
while the dominant bird Of the season is tie
pheasant. his complete plumage, from till
TO tailBp and from wing to wing, on a wire
frame, forms q complete hat, ana a lovely
one, Uso, for the lTown, gold and green tOI.es
Of his p!ufuGge exactly harnIonize with wiz
ter costumes.
The pleasant hat, owing to the taxider-
Inist's art and the facility with which these
birds are now raised fl America, is not an
expensive luxury Any shrewd woman can
buy bird, Wire frame, and bitof dark
bliss vclyeU with which to lay a fold as a
basis for mounting the bird against her
hair. and III a trice can be possessed If q
smart q chapelu az heartcouid wish. Very
luxuriously dressed women Wear gorgeously
colsred crested pheasants, brought from
Europe, and pin a blazing star OF colored
imitation jewels amid the sheeuy breast
feathers just over the right temple. There
wear these hats as 10 the length Of their
birds tails. The smsrtest hat has the long
est tail feathers. some Of them failing FAR
Gown on the shoulder
IN the ma tier OF furs tie horse show
made Z gallant display Of big muffs and
maIy of these We're worn slung about
the neck ~ single chains Of pretty imi-
tation pearls, indeed nothing more thau
II -
cords. Silver fox and chilchilla are the
furs stni adopted by the wealthy nsuffs
were noticed with heads mounted thereon
but Ia, small fur animal no longer clasps
fair tur0ats.
Cape-like collars, with tufts Of tails in
front made 2 brave show, while quite as
mauy women wore straight round collars
about three inches wide, made of two
narrow bands Of fur at top and bottom
edges, with row OF close set heads, hay
iPg open Jaws and flashing eyes. plac I'll
between the fHT bands. Their technical
name IS dog collar, for such a contnvance
* loose, perfectly round, made on very
stir fouEda ton aR1 arranged to hook ex-
exactly Under the chin. a noticeable fact
at the show was that every woman, after
she had put Oh her fur coat, cape or collar,
then tied about her neck long scarf Of
silk, lace or net, edged with lace. made
a big bow of it under her chin and let
loops and ends fan out S a jabUt ia font
over her fur covered chest.
No cozt, the show made clear this season
is T. Dc worn taiilesS. Some coats, indeed
are very, veiy long. A tan beaver c!ot.
walking coat trimmed with brown braid, is
s5etched this week as typical OF some oftbe
styles in wraps conspicuous at this horsf
fair The skirts Of this fall half way TO the
ankle ard on both sides are slit up gen.
erously 70 allow Of free stride in walking
Tic woman who had waist short, douhle
breasted coat last winter, can bring it quite
into fashion rev by adding Of cloth or ful
OF six, finEel-long ruffle tail al about
the hips; eEcirciing the waist by ribbon
belt, tc hide the seam at junctCre of coat
and tails, aud fastening the belt in fron
by as big anG ornamental a buckle as sh.
can find or afford
Shirt waists spring eternal, winter 81
summer, at breakfast tables and diunel
parties, and in every goods but gauze an,
lace. TLcy almost controlled the situation
at every :.our Of the day during the show
The two sketcheJ from an inexhaustibl
array were of blue and pink satin rhadames
Fine perpendicular tucks and a quaint ar
rangement Of black ribbon bows, held Wit
wee cut steel buckles, gave one simple littI
garment All its charm.
TIE second waist, tucked on the bias
both on sleeve and bosom, had. abou
its black silk collar and cuffs and dow
the front rows Of the very narr owest whit
Iibbon laid OF with one edge gathered
On fine needlework and dainty contra:
Of colors the beauty OF shese skirts depend.
Their na,erial costs very much less tina