The herald., 1897-09-26
Vietoria's Jubilee Has Set
Brides Rummaging for
Ancient Finery.
Bridal Robes and Bridesmaids
Dresses for October
Weddings.

line DIlQeS OIL o. dIS AASC0 AAOAA sA.~
stigma &" having made. Juliet az
vances toward their summer lovers-a
charge which was laid at the door OF
more than one bride Of 1896 when un-
kind folk insinuated that the OCTOBER
weddings of last year were the proouct
of leap year proposals in whlcn the Wo-
man in the case, made desperate at the
prospect Of eight years before anotner
leap year, took matters into her own
hands and secured her man while yet
there was time. This year, however,
there Is no room to suppose that the
progress Of the various courtships diff
fers in any respect from the old fash
toned way Of doing things.
Indeed. all the new fashions pertain
ing to weddings are decidedly old. par
adoxical though 1t may seem. Wed
ding invitations are worded exactly as
they were two years ago, and as Tor
dress, styles have gone back to the
time of the Queens marriage in honor
Of her jubilee. Americans should not
object to British influence in this in
stance, where SO remote a cause as
the war between China and Japan set
everyone to giving Japanese teas and
Nikado parties. For another instance
Of the influence Of current events upon
matters Of dress one has but to visit
the furrier's and see how he is hugging
himself over the Klondike exodus, as
he displays his wares in the windows
with a prodigious copy Of some Alas
kan enthusiast who talks of glaciers
and snow mountains so feelingly that
one shivers in mild September and de-
cides that it's about time to purchase
that winter collarette.
In view Of the foregoing facts, it is
evident that now is the time to get out
grandmother's wedding finery and see
II there is anything in the collection
which can be pressed into service for
the something old" in the familiar
couplet.
Combinations Of several different
kinds Of material are allowable in we'd
ding gowns to greater degree than
for years before. For instance, the
bridal gown which appears in the ac-
companying illustration has two ma
terials in its composition, exclusive Of
the taffeta silk Innings. The pleated pet
ticoat which forms the front Of the
skirt is made Of white bengaline as is
also the pointed waist with its lace ruff
which Is made Of white mousseline,
with a frill Of lace overhangng, gives
a softening effect about the face which
every bride who wants to outshine her
bridesmaid should strive for. The
sleeves also are made of mousseline in
the wrinkled mousquetaire fashion and
are finished at the shoulder with a
draped heading of white bengaline. The
train is made Of an entirely different
material, and is stripe of satin and
brocade. which requires nine yards Of
material. It has q lace ruffle running
around its entire edge and forming a
trimming which falls over the pleated
petticoat front. A suggestion for stiff
fleming trains and giving them body
was given me by an experienced mo-
diste. In addition to the white hair
cloth, which Is laid between the bro
cade and the silk lining from the end to
the place where it joins the bottom
Of the skirt proper, an interlining of
outing cloth extends throughout the
train. OF course, If one happens
to have old lace in ones family
chest, here is an excellent opportunity
to give it an airing in the shape of a
ruf1e around ones train or merely
around the yoke If the supply is limited
White faille is a favorite material for
wedding gowns, but the very newest
thing, and the most-to- be-desired on
account Of it's weight and voluminous-
ness Is white MORE poplin. The latter
material is twenty-five inches wide and
varies from $1.50 to $500 per yard. From
fifteen to twenty-five yards are re-
quired according to the size of the
train.
Wedding gloves are suede, and NOUS
quetaire in cut where elbow sleeves
are worn.
Some Of the daintiest things in bridal
underwear are the Marguerite" petit
coats in various dainty-colored silks.
Pink silk ones have strips of cream lace
insertion running across the cute lit
tie waist. Pale blue ones are trimmed
with ivory white Honiton of the very
richest description. A white silk one
has very little trimming on the waist
but is hem-stitched to the band which
forms the dividing line between waist
and skirt. Fine null skirts trimmed
with lace and bands Of insertion are
laid in the finest Of pleats, an arrange
ment which is very dainty and fluffy