The San Francisco call., 1897-06-13

| capes are much trimmed with kilt pleated
lisse, and some, for evening and carriage
wear, are covered with lace, Killed, and in
| Its turn overlaid with lace houncings.
Very many of the latest blouses are either
tucked or killed. some suggestion of this
style appearing on the sleeves if not else
where. Even the parasois, which this
year are so much trimmed as to be actu
ally fussy, are covere with accordion
pleating and have frillings at the edge OF
| lace and silk. The latest thing in handles
Tor these additions to the toilet is the
sembiance OF a horse-chestnut bursting
from its prickIy sheath.
we are going to wear barege again, and
1t is really very desirable material in
many ways, although the sort we used tc
nave was noted for its unpleasant ten
dency to split horizontally on the very
slightest provocation, or none at all. The
modern variety, however, is better
woven and many of the newest dresses
are being made of it. The NEST fashion
able color in which the new bareRe is
seen is that very lightest shade of pearl
gray of which our grandmothers were SO
fond and which has not been in favor for
very long time.
A particularly fetching costume is made
OF green and white foulard. with plain
skirt, displaying a gathered founce piped
and set into vandykes. The bodice
which is, perhaps, its most charming
feature, has bolero of plain green satin,
cut into points across the bust and traced
with ecru embroidery threaded with gold.
The loose fronts of the foulard are tied
with careless ends to show q vest of white
chiffon frilled down one side with lace.
The sleeves are quantity suggestive of the
Tudor period, with very snort puffs at the
top and elbow made of the foulard, plain
satin being rucked between these. The
hat that is to be the finishing touch TO
this dainty gown is of green straw, its
brim trimmed with Iceland poppieS IN
shaded pink. There is o white osprey at
| the back with a lace bow outstretched be-
| low it.
A rather striking peculiarity OF the ssea-
son is the very general use ole vivid red,
both for day and evening wear. 1t is
| especially noticed in hats of the ''picture"
variety, which are seen every ywhere, even
on young girls barely out of school. These
hats are mostly of poppy-red straw,
trimmed with the same shade sometimes,
though rarely, relieved by a touch of
black. They are rather daring. but quite
effective with fresh young faces.
Canvas is to be as popular with the
fashionable woman this year as it is with
the masters of sailing vessels. The dress
goods dealers and the dressmakers say it
will be worn as widely as duck. The ma
terials are as varied as the prisms in a
kaleid oscope. There is the wide mesh,
the narrow mesh. cobweb grounds, tiny
| holes arranged to form a square patteI n,
with others like openwork stockings.
These all show the lining through, for
nearly all canvases are lined with bright
silk, shot or plain, and look remarkably
well made up. White is used as lining
for block canvas, which in the fancy for
black and white costumes that now pre-
vail would prove very useful gown for
spring wear.
Corded grenadine is also worth men tion,
the thick black cords of which are divided
by narrow cords in brilliant colors, cerise,
violet green, orange or blue and also
with white cords only. Grenadines are
generally in favor, the more expensive
kinds being very artistic in design and
unusually attractive. One OF the new
fancy grenadines has a black ground
with large arabesque all-over pattern in
white threads which is most effective and
also in harmony with the black and white
idea so much in vogue.
The color combination OF the moment
are new and startling, the brightest of
reds with mauve, violet and purple, q
vivid green being constantly added. Ce-
riSp q hriO hi shade is of ~
in favor as Parma violet, ami the two are
frequently blended. Blue and green,
though by no means new color arrange
ment, is still much worn. Plaids are very
fashionable, blues and green's Dredomi-
mating. They make, in silk, admira Bile
blouses, as do the black-and- white plaids.
These worn with black canvas, summer
serge or grenadine skirts are in excellent
| taste.
! If ii be true that nothing under tie sun
| is new, at least some of the new hats would
seem to refute that statement, for it seem.
J that no shape could be too high, or too
wide, or too eccentric to be worn this year.
| There is a wide, coarse straw greatly
affected which Is bent into all sorts Of Gu
rious twists and p,eats and trimmed in
the most wonderful, not to say extrava-
| CANT, manner. Straws of the m ost brill
liant colors will be most popular-pink,
blue. red, green, yellow, mauve. and of,en
a combination of two or more of these in
one hat, the crown and brim being OF quite
different straws.
The picture" hats are still popular,
and will be much worn this season.
Drawn black lace and chiffon hats are in
favor, as are also the accordion killed
grenadine or crinolire brims, which can
be made becoming TO almost any style oi
face. This will certainly be a season oil
flowers, and among the novelties may be
found many varieties of wild flowers. II
you wish to be Partisan and quite up to
date choose roadside or a hedgerow IA
vorite for the adornment of your hat.
The convolvuli and the little blossom oil
the deadly nightshade are especially new
and quite original.
Belts of the Swiss form company
many OF the boleros, and are made of lace
braid united by silk stitching. But there
arc good many other kinds, and none
are more remarkable than those made in
pIa:ds. some thirty different kinds being
employed for the purpose. These are
made OF a sort of strong Petersham and