davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
THE WHEEL OF FASHION.
Its Latest Revolutions Have Brought Some Important
Changes In Dress.

New York. Nov. 12-The wheel of
fashion is slowly turning, but already
we have a new cut of skirt improve
ments in the fitting of waist basks,
revolution in capes to record. and some
lately invented arrangements in color.
The dressmakers say that from now
until the spring sewing begins. skirts
must al measure four yards and a
half about the foot and every scrap of
fullness belongs at the back. There it
is pinched in by q series of close, tight
plaits, and no longer is the front width
cut narrowly at the top. In place of
the two front seams running up inside
the hips, two tiny darts. about an inch
and three-Quarters long, belong there,
and The seams far around to the back.
at least two inches and a half to the
outside of the hip line.
Fortunately there is no castiron rule
obliSing every woman in fashions name
to have her skirt made separate from
Its foundation petticOat Either meth
Cd, that is, the two skirts separate or
the foundation one used as a lining for
the goods, is cheerfully permitted, but
the allowance of hair cloth in every
petucoat SroWs smaller and smaller as
time goes on. In a silk-lined skirt only
four or five inches of it are used ana
because all dresses, whether for house
or street, are made very long, novel
finish for skirt edges has been recently
introduced. 1t is a piping of leather set
on a band of braid, easily adjustable
and guaranteed to keep any dress from
flaying at he foot
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

goods goes. Gathers no longer are seen
at the waist line, and the front is al
lowed to fall full, but without an exag-
gerated drop.
SOME COLD WEATHER WRAPS.
The hitherto sober-sided golf cape is
now the gayest garment in show win
dows, and its bravery of Dlaids and
fringeg makes it desired of all wom-
en-. Those that inspire the greatest
amount of envy show inside and out the
most dazzling combinations of colors,
their fronts have long straight revers
turning back over their wearer's chests.
held in place by rows Of big pearl but
tons, and the revers themselves heav-
lily fringed. Over the shoulders of every
new cape falls a long pointed hood of
bright fringed plaid and the lofty roll
ing collar is finished with fringe. These
are the really true Scotch capes. made
from Highlanders' gaudy fringed plaids
and the contagicn of cross barred col
ors and wooden fringe has spread to the
pretty rough weather coats.
Observing these last should give ideas
to the women who have good dark
cloth coats left over from other sea
sons and wish to alter them in a style
that will artfully bring them into har-
mony with the winters fashions The
little jacket sketched shows how it can
re done. The model for this illustration
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

crepe or think it unhealthy are having
their black costumes decorated with
bands of moss trimming, which will
outwear the best crepe, and is not
nearly so expensive 1t is the happy
custom now more and more to relieve
the melancholy gloom of mourning
house gowns bv a judicious use of
white close at the throat. and for this
purpose collarettes are especially made
and sold in the shops. Even on i'm
mediately assuming the suits of woe
the neck decorations of white are
worn, made either of starched linen.
crisply Numbered lawn or plated
white chiffon.
A HOUSE DRESS.
An idea for a graceful mourning
house dress is given this week as suit
able for woman of any age under so.
1t is especially offered to show how
daintily and effectively crepe can still
be used, il one believes in clinging 10
the traditional emblem of grief. Both
skirt and waist are created from plain
black cashmere, and trimmed With
inch wide ruff1es of crepe set on the
skirt in a cluster band of three or five
placed very close together The wide
collar and girdle are made from luster-
less or mourning faille, and about the
collar and edging the side points on
the waist runs double ruffle of crepe.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
BUT WHY ARE you LOOKING so SOBER, DoRAP'

his mouth, but quickly Withdrawing it
when he attempted to kiss it.
How dare your she exclaimed, .af-
ter the way you've been talkingn'
We'll. if you don't want me to say
things, why don't you answer my ques-
tion?"
Must I, Jack?"
I ann afraid you must, my dear
And you won't hate me after 1 tell,
will your
"Well'-
That depends, you are going to say.
You needn't hesitate so long; can
read your thoughts
Can you? That's convenient for
you, I'm sure. | wish l could read
yours, then I'd know the answer to
my question"
would you really like to know?"
''Why, yes; or l shouldn't have asked
it,
We'll, Jack. if it will relieve your
mind any to know it, you have no pre-
decessors.'
Are you sure, Dora?"
Yes, Jack. You are the first and
only"
Thanks, awfully, Dora! I'm glad to
hear it: and now that question is set
tied we will''-
"oh, no, my boy; you don't get off
quite so easy as that! [ want your
confession now. About how many
times have you been in love, pray
ten?"
Jack Vernon WINGED. He hadn't
counted on this, exactly.
Come, young man, you are now on
the witness stand, sworn to tell the
truth, the whole truth and nothing but
the TRUTH she continued, banteringly.
Must -" said Jack, helplessly re-
peating her question of a few moments
before.
L am afraid you must, my dear"
mimicked she.
But 1 am afraid you will hate me
after 1 confess.
rs the record, then, so long?"
NO; it is a very short one. I have
never loved but once-before.
And she-she refused you?"
mo; never asked her
why not? You see, L want the
whole story now
Because of pride. She was a wealthy
heiress; 1 a penniless lawyer, with my
fame and fortune yet to make. / loved
her: l am not ashamed to say it; she
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
THE BRIDAL COLOR.

The choice of white for the wedding
dress is really a modern fashion The
bridal color differs in many countries to-
day and has differed in various centuries.
In many eastern countries the brides are
dressed in pink, and the Greeks and
Romans wore yellow or saffron, probably
derived from Hymen's flaming torch.
During the middle ages and the renais-
sance the bride wore crimson, and most of
the queens of France, England. Germany
and Italy wore this color, a custom which
still survives in Brittany, where the brides
are gay in crimson brocades. No less q
When she was married to Francis II Of
France. in 1853 she appeared before the
doors of Notre Dame in a white broeade
with a train of light blue Persian velvet.
six yards long. This was regarded as a,
most singular innovation. 1t was not till
the end of the 18th century that pure
white became the popular and correct
bridal attire
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

Every spring and fall d few good and
pretty gowns are made with over drap-
cries. There seems to be no promise
that overskirts win become universally
worn yet While. but. as a variation on
the system at present practical of
braiding and ruffiing. a pretty over
dress or two is seen and worn
with pleasure. All those gowns.
showing them at the fall openings. had
pointed overdresses, long points reach
ing TO the toes. rs illustrated in the
group of mourning costumes given this
week. Such d draDery as this Is used
indifferently on silk, grenadine and the
heaviest stuff suits. \ novelty IN skirt
building is the use of bright silk foun-
dation petticoats, separate rom the
goods, and all laid in deep accordion
plaits
No truly careful observer of fashions
viii allow her dress waists to be pouch
ed all about, back as well as front. The
smartest basaues have perfectly plain
backs. so Car as the laying u of the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

AS writer of hymns, Fanny Crosby,
the blind poetess, has a reputation that
is world wide. Her verses are sung by
Christian people everywhere, and have
been translated into almost every
tongue.
Besides her hymns, which number
about 1900, she has composed many
ballads and lyrics and written the
words for several cantatas.
Not only is she a poetess and lecturer,
but philanthropist as WE'LL for scarcely
a day passes that Miss Crosby does not
find time to devote several hours to
work among the sick poor. and in this
she says she finds her greatest joy and
consolation. Her own inflrmity does
not Cypress her as much as the woes
of another.
Her methods of composing are unique,
as she depends neither upon moods nor
inspiration, but hymn written While
you wait" has always been character
istic of her work. About 80 years ago
Fanny Crosby now lacks but three
years of reaching the fOur-score mark
she made an agreement with q must
cal firm in New York to write eXclu-
sively for their house, and TO furnish
three hymns weekly. These are al
ways on time, and always meet with
a ready sale. One of her best known
hymns, Safe in the Arms of Jesus"
was written in 20 minutes. 1t is said
that no modern hymn has been more
popular or translated into more Ian
guages.
AS rule, Miss Crosby composes. at
night After her family has retired,
she seats herself in a comfortable
chair and thinks out or composes a
hymn, or two or three as the case may
be. Perhaps by this time it is 2 or 8
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

tires. In the morning she dictates the
new lines to her companion, who is
amanuensis and secretary as we'll.
Then the verses are read to her, and
she makes any changes which may
suggest themselves One popularity
of the blind poetess is that she never
can think without she is holding an
open book in her hand.
Multitudes of persons have been
aroused to a better life, and multi
tudes more have been comforted in
their time of sorrow through the in
strumentality of her hymns. Thous-
ands who have passed through the
Sunday school during the last 80 years
hold her in the tenderest regard as as
ISOLATED with the bright days of their
childhood. She rarely appears III any
assembly without calling forth wit
nesses to her power for good and some
times the demonstration is dramatic
One evening she was present at a mis-
sion meeting when one OF her hymns
Rescue the Perishing," was sung. A.
young man arose and told the story
of his wanderings; hungry and penni-
less, he was strolling through the
streets one night when he heard the
sound of singing. He caught the words
of this hymn. Il was just ready to per
ISM he said, but that hymn, by the
grace of God, saved me-
Among her other we'll known hymns
are, Pass Ne Not, O Gentle Savior"
Jesus the Water of Life Will Give
Strike the Harp of Zion I'VE Are
Going to g Home Beyond the Skies
Among her secular verses, which be-
long to an earlier generation, are "Ro-
sale the Prairie Flower" The royalty
on this alone amounted to nearly $4,000.
"Hazel Dell" Music in the Air and
Never Forget the Dear Ones"
ELEANOR LEXINGTON.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
THE ART OF DARNING.

The proper darning of a rent in cloth
is an art that cannot be easily picked up
and should be taught to girls as an es-
sentias part of their practical home train
ing. The expert darner of wooden cloth
will make a rent practically invisible by
weaving together torn edges matching
them as carefully as possible, and after
ward pressing the rent. a fine sewing
silk is used to darn wooden cloth in prefer
ence TO any WOOL which would not be
strong enough unless the thread or rayel-
ling was too coarse. Where the cloth is
thick enough, endeavor to conceal the silk
thread between the face and back of the
cloth. Begin about half an inch from the
edge of one side of the tear, and run
the needle the same distance from the
other edge, concealing the thread carefully
and drawing the edges closely together
but not so that they overlap. If there is
any nap on the cloth, brush it back while
you are darning and then brush it down
again. Lay u damp cloth on the wrong
side of the cloth. over the darn, and press
ii down once. then remove the cotton
cloth and press next the wooden surface
being careful that YOU do not press it
perfectly dry, but that a very little steam
arises after the iron IS removed. If the
cloth is pressed perfectly dry the work of
the iron will be shown on the right side
A piece of cloth is usually darned with
vertical and diagonal surface, running
with the threads of the cloth. The .'un-
and-down'' thread is usually the strongest
way of mending a bias darn. Use no
piece of cloth under the darning unless the
material darned is Thin. In that case a
piece of silk of the same color is less
clumsy as a backing to darn the wool
unless the wool is sheer.
Tableclotlhs generally wear out first in
the folds. 1t is true that these are not
always made in the same place, even by
the same laundress, but they generally
are, and there is invariably one in the cen
ter. BY cutting off a few inches from one
end and one side, all the folds will be al
tered, thus giving the cloth a fresh start.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

She had whispered, yes, Jack, love
you!" in response to his question; his
kisses were still warm on her lips;
their hearts were beating in unison,
though not so unanimously aus before,
and now that the first rapture and
thrill were over, they were asking ques-
tons ard making their little confess
sions, after the manner of lovers on
the threshold of an engagement.
How many times have l been in
love before? Now, Jack. do you think
that is a fair question:" she asked,
meeting his look with a, roguish glance.
why, certainly it is, Dora he re-
piled, earnestly. You say you love
me, so it doesn't really make any diff
ference about the others: they're done
for now; but / think I ought to know.
Still. If there are SO many of them
Please stop, Jack! 1 won't have
you saying such dreadful things, and,
with that look on your facer' she inter
rupted, playfully placing her hand over
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

u months or one year, when it marks ri
pounds.
The reverse side of the chart is also
arranged to give valuable information re-
garding the PHYSICAL career of the baby;
a space at the right being reserved for
the dates uDon which his teeth appear.
Charts Tor the second year OF the child's
life are also prepared and as regards
teeth are Of more value.
If the baloy is a bottle baby space is
left on the chart for mis- menu" For in
stance. referring to 4 chart which hap
pens 70 be that of Il bottle baby and one
whose weight. as his chart indicated, was
above the average baby's, it records that
at three months he was taking cow S milk
diluted two-thirds; at five months. cows
milk diluted One-haf with cream and six
ounces of sugar; at seven months he was
taking bread, with his milk, diluted one
third; at ten months milk and orange
juice. with whole wheat roll; al II months.
in addition to milk, farina and beef juice,
and at the mature age of one wear. besides
milk he was being RECALLED on hard boiled
eggs every other day, with beef juice and
farina.
Hard boiled eggs, by the way. require
exactly q minutes boiling in order TO ar
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
AN ANGEL in PETTICOATS.


scarcely recognized.
Why, do you know her?" he ex-
claimed, in surprise.
II used to room with her at board
ing school," answered Dora. She had
regained control of her voice now. She
is a good, noble woman, far better than
| am, and [ don't wonder that you
You mean loved" corrected Jack.
My love for her is in the past tense,
not the present"
True love can never die" quoted
Dora, gravely. Wasn't it the divine
William who said that? But there
Jack, we have talked enough of love
for one evening. Don't you think so?'
But you haven't promised to marry
me yet
You didn't ask me that question
You simply asked me if I loved you
and you got your answer, believe"
And l am to take the rest for grant
ed, eh?''
We'll, no; nothing should be taken
for granted in this world. I'll give you
your answer, but not now. 1 think I'd
better send it to you in writing"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
A GROUP AT WORK.

homes. 1t was at that exhibit that
this patron saint showed her heroism
by arduous la.bors, from the results of
which she has never recovered.
AT first these workers used only the
PAM, or cotton material of the coun-
try, for their artistic designs. Then,
as the work increased, a device was
laid for the using of French materials.
Nine. Zacaroff, the leading spirit in
Paris, made arrangements with Mrs.
Hanson for the French satins, silks
and mousseline de soies, believing all
would go well with those whose eyes
could count threads in a cobweb or
work gold into a butterfiys wing
MRS. OLIVER BELL BUNCE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
FIBROID TUMOR
Expelled by Lydia E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound.
Interview With Mrs. B. A. Lombard.

Ihave reason to think that would
not be here now if it had not been for
Lydia E. Pinkhan's Vegetable Com
pound. It cured me of a fbroid tumor
IN my womb.
Doctors could donothing for me, and
they could not cure me at the hospital.
] viii tell you about it:
L had been in my usual health, but
had worked quite hard. When nv
monthly period came on, flowed very
badly The doctor gave me medicine,
but it did me no good. He said the
flow must be stopped if possible, and
he must find the cause of my trouble.
Upon examination, he found there
was Fibroid .Eumor in my womb, and
gave me treatment without any benefit
whatever. About that time a lady
called on me, and recommended Lydia
E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound.
said she owed her life to it. /
said 1 would try it, and did. Soon
after the flow became more natural ana
regular. l still continued taking the
Compound for some time. Then the
doctor made an examination again.
and found everything all right. The
tumer had passed away and that dub
ache was gone.-MRs B. A. LOMBARD.
= AZ
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
WOMEN DOING MEMS WORK.
The Invasion of Mans Domain Not
as Serious as Supposed.

Chicago Tfmes-Herald: Referring to-
the figures of labor bulletin No. SO.
showing the marked increase of women
in mems occupations, Mr.. Carroll D.
Wright is of the opinion that this in
vasion is not likely to encroach upon
the employment Of men. nor hurt their
chances.
In the first place women are in many
cases taking the place of children, not
Of men; in the second place, invention
and discovery, like the railroad, the
telegraph, the telephone and the use
of electricity, are opening many new
occupations to men.
The reasons given by employers for
their employment Of women are that
they are more adaptable to work, are
more reliable, more easily controlled.
heater, faster, more industrious, care
full, polite and dOcile.
One superiority is likely for many
years to give women. where other
things are equal an advantage over
men-that is sObriety. This virtue is
becoming more and more essential to
success and employers are making it
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

more and more an absolute condition
of employment. Women have also the
advantage of willingness to accept
lower pay, but this viii not always
last. Wages, like water, will seek
their level. But in a competition be-
tween soibriety and drunkenness wo-
man will for a long time surpaSS her
male rival. 1t is to he considered, too,
that if women are supplanting men in
some occupations men began it." The
spinning, the knitting, even the weav-
ing, the making of garments, all Of
the cooking and preserving, the prod
ucts of the dairy, were not many years
ago household duties performed almost
entirely by women. These occupations
now give employment to large NUM-
bers Of men as we'll as of women. So
that if he reproaches her with en-
croaching upon his industrial domain
she can truthfully accuse him of first
being an intruder and trespasser upon
hers.
Somerville Journal: A Query--Is 1T real
" true that some girls wear CATERS when
they ride the bicycle rather than keep
their stockings darned?
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14

was a woman that one could not help
loving; she was all to me then that you
are now, and
And more. Go on and say it, Jack,
l want the whole truth
No, I won't say that; but she was
the first, and love was a new sensation
to me then, and if / had been her equal
in wealth and station, [ might-but,
shawl What is the use of telling you
all this? 1t is all over now. Her love
was not for me. l have put it aside
and, besides, l have you. But why are
you looking SO sober, Dora? Have l
confessed too much? You wanted the
whole truth, you know"
Yes, and / am glad you We're brave
enough to tell it. How long ago was
it that-'that this happened?' she
faltered.
Three years"
And her name?" she asked, in low
tones.
Need 1 tell that?"
YES, please said Dora, family
Edith Burton
Doras face grew suddenly pale
Il thought perhaps she was the
one" she said, in a voice that Jack
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
RARE EASTERN NEEDLEWORK

IurAlsh Embrolderers Vino Count this
Stitches in a Cobweb.
1t was during the siege of the Turco-
Russian war that a gigantic charity
was headed by that worthy woman, the
Baroness Burdett- Coutts. as a relief
fund for the Mahomedan victims, who,
homeless and friendless, experienced
the most cruel of hardships in reaching
the city of Constantinople, where sue
cor might be obtained.
The history of that dreadful time has
really never been written. but enough
has been said to insure sympathy for
these workers of the needle.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-11-14
WEIGHT CHART
REyLRSE sIsL
THE CHART.

rive at the proper state for eating without
injury to the digestion.
With the aid of q weight chart, it is a.
comparatively easy matter to regulate
the diet of a child brought up on the
bottle and every mother who has ever
used the chart recognizes in it a most
useful possession. J. c.