Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-06-06
Song of the Beggar Mind.

DoDB VI ~
The moon is a king with a silver crown
in the blue, blue sky,
Ha~ppy-gO-lucky and low-he-doWn-
FaVored by Fortunes every iroWn,
Btggariy maid am l-beGSarIy MILO am 1.
What is his wand with the starry tip?
A pale mOOnbeam:
lie lays il gently upon my lip;
Kings may quarrel, ana Kingdoms SIP
Happy l lie and d~ream-happy 1 lie ana
dream.
Here I lie through the dear, dear night
May II linger long:
Every goblin and every sprlte,
H-appy-go-heavy and h~appy-go-HgaI NV
dreamland song.
Kings may quarrel and kings may groan
With a long, long sigh; ~
Queens may languish and make their
Begrarly maiden and all alone
Happiest queen am l-happlest queen
A. G. Herbertson. in Black and White.
Now that summer with all its varied
amusements. fashionable sports. and con-
sequent demands for appropriate costumes
is very near. dress assumes a fresh i'm
p~ortance to the up-tO-date summer girl.
She must be well supplied with the pretty
flmy things of lace and lawn, and the dis
f~inctive gowns suited 10 the conventional
requirements of outdoor life, or she can
have no especial place in the procession.
However; she mas one satIsIaGOon 70 en-
ing her summer outfit, even though the al
lowance is limited, in the fact that simple
inexpensive gowns are quite as good form
as the more elaborate CONNECTIONS. provided
they are made in the latest fashion and
Supplemented by all the details as TO belts.
stocks. and vests which give them the APP
proved stamp of style. II Is the nItle
touches and artistic manner Q Mem :
fashionable success.
The expression so often heard, that some
women have a superior way OF wearing
their clothes, has a significance which IS
we'll worth Considering, since the accom-
pIishment can make a plain gown appear
elegant. Change, too, is a vital thing IN
the fashionable world, says the New YORK
Sun. particularly in summer, and the more
variety we can give to the outfit the more
successfully it will fulfill its mission. The
coat and skirt gowns of pique, linen duck
and various wool materials help out this
scheme to an unlimited extent, for no end
of changes may be made with a variety OF
in the form of a yoke with narrow velvet
ribbon, make pretty and serviceable vests.
structed out Of any old bit of lace, silk, or
chiffon which may be at hand.
For light weight wool costumes there is a
new style of coat with a blouse back ana
close fitting front, well covered with a
large collar, rather narrow in the back, but
wide and extending to the bottom in front:
Wide collars of some sort are a special
feature of the new coats and many of the
very latest gowns, whether they are made
with a coat or a round waist, quite regard
less Of the kline Of material very pretty
groups or closely all over, and to be cor
rect the tucks must be in the ~narrowest
possible width, with a finish on the edge OF
tiny plaitings. The collar. which is mar
row front and back, meeting at the neck
band and extending out over the sleeves in
the form Of an epaulette, is especially good
style.
Blouse bodices are quite as popular as the
coat in any sort of material, and very pref
~ pique gowns are made in this way, open
ing IN 'front.' over a cnennlsette ana NARROW
vest of embroidery. Tit wide fancy collar
is a feature of the rev thin bodices Of
gauze or chiffon5 as well as the heavier ma
terials. and II is sometimes made OF the
same thin fabric, shirred full of tiny tucks
or of tulle in some contrasting color, lined
with silk of the color, of the bodice. -Batiste
and muslin gowns of the daintiest descrip-
ton have the same style of collar, made OF
alternate rows OF tucks and insertion I'm
ished around the edge with a lace frill, or
entirely of lace over colored silk. An eN-
ample of this i'm the new shape is a charm
ing model Tor a colored or white organdle
or an ecrue batiste. White organdie Is the
material employed in this case, and the
new fine Swiss embroidery so popular this
season is the mmin set in two rows of
insertion down either side of the skirt and
II the bodice and sleeves. Two ruftles of
edging trim the bottom. and the collar of
pale green and white shot taffeta is covered
with the embroidery. The silk also forms
the belt. and the underdress is Of pale green
lawn, fine and sheer.
Lace jackets worn with very thin gowns
are one of the latest novelties, and the
newest form shows a position back. Cluny,
HCniton. Lierre, imitation Venetian and
Naleuciennes seem to be the popular laces
fo- trimming thin gowns. but Ciuny rather
has the lead as the latest revival. 1t Is
employed on all sorts of gowns, both silk
ard wool, for full vests. entire sleeves, |
Jabots, Jokes. and in any other way in
which lace can be arranged one of the
pretty and fashionable waist models among
the latest gowns has a narrow round yoke
back and front extending into a loose full
vest. A piping of satin or velvet or "A
marrow fIill of lace finishes the edge of the
ICdica where it laps up on the yoke and
down either side Of the front. Any broad
effect across the shoulders which can be
produced by the use of epaulettes or frills
diplomatic substitute for the large sleeves
t. Is a great success.
The sleeves of thin dresses are either
shirred or trimmed round with rows of
tucks and lace insertion, and three lace
edged frills are the p~retttest finish for the
top. The skirts have less fullness than
those of last season, but they are cut either
with seven cores and fitted carefully
around the hips or made with plain
breadths shirred i'm tiny cords below the
waist and trimmed with lace insertion set
in various forms above the hem. diamond
points being one Of the favorite designs.
1aco-edgcd douHCings are the usual trim
ning on the gored muslin skirts. There
may be one, two or three at the bottom. }
flounces all the way from the hem to the
waist, or narrow ruChCS set in clusters or
at wide intervals the entire length, but
TRIMMING Of some sort is a necessity on the !
ECred skirt The underdTeSseS also of or
candle or very sheer lawn. are trimmed
with ruftles at the bottom, which make the
skirts stand out and preserve the lightness
in effect much better than the silk Innings. |
Nuns veilinEs, very thin in quality. gain
in favor as the season advances. and a |
very novel effect is produced by lining |
them with plaid silks. or large broken
pads, with a decided line of some bright |
color. White nuns yelling over white silk. |
trimmed with inch-wide green gauze rib
bon set in a pattern like braiding on the
skirt. sleeves and bodice, is one of the
novelties in summer dress. Bands of mar
row satin ribbon also Trim these light
gowns.
The coat and skirt style of summer dress.
SO much worn for tennis, yachting. golf
and all outdoor reCreatiOns. is shown in
greater variety than ever. There are Eton /
and bolero jackets and fitted coats with
hasques of varying lengths. so whichever /
IS most becoming TO the figure is the one
10 choose. A pretty model in gray cloth
with a zouaVe jacket is trimmed with a /
fiat gray braid. edged around with fancy
cord. The necessary contrast of color is /
I'm the vest OF yellow lace and a belt of pale
green silk. White kid is the finish on an
other coat Of mixed cloth, With black satin
rovers and collar. The plated bolero
trimmed with embroidery. is a pretty fancy
for "a pique gown. and still another nioue
coat has insertions of embroidery set in