davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

Salon namely the fancy capes and "cols' that
have added such dainty touch TO the feminine
toilet for many seasons There were some worn.
to be sure, but the smartest toilets were without
any excuse for an outside wrap.
And this suggests the subject or )achcts' or
rather tacket-gowns The invention of the latter
STYLE of costume probably belongs to the English
tailor; the American woman made 1t popular ana
Insisted on its fitting well, and the Frehch oanio
has evolved from it costume dressy ana iriVoious
enough TO become her style and suitable Tor any
occasion between breakfast and dinner Mn st;r
and Jacket many English taors turn Out touas
and the coouettsh affair affected by the Parslelns
The first with its wide. fiat back. narrow h at
front and funess Of skirt Is thing peIhah, ~ ~
with comfort. but the second Is a 'h'''s u
The pretest gowns at the SAILOR and tno ose
which seemed best suited to the envHOnined
frivolous editions of jachet-gowns IN we aI n,5
bindings Of CLOTH popn Or silk ornanTmIue
de sole There short jackets with Iey eve Ss da
rate blouse fronts and collars tina: made and de a
lcious compromise between stree gowi H. anu enV
cloth Jacket suit with skirt and long, straight
Jacket sides was converted into toilet -. ono.
tune. invented for certain occasions, when, me IN.
mondame wishes TO look well dressed ana az
Ing dressed You may do what you IKE w,sn
jacket suit and yet cera seen, Oh not wise
TO fuss up a jacket suit that was not built Tor tha'
WIZ this beautiful big Salon We are promised IN
CIV fntura things may change but as ii stands To-
day the best hours are before Breakfast me . ar
tjsie tho nress and the invited guests OF the Presl
6ent have of course. an ultra-private view Two
SaWs before, but the public vanishing DAY. even
pennIe 90 10 see other people, Of course-le beau
no6lde renowned artists. the celebrated actresses
mo MOI rnome beauties OF another world-and It
Would seem OF late years that the best place IN
wIinh 10 view this particular spectacle was az
enn,a ono ~ the popuar restaurants in the negh,
borhood during dejeuner hour They nave mhlshGd
Dj,h The salon then and are leisureiy discussing u
A. such a place one may see az the tanles such
Celebrities as the Minister des BeauxrArts. NJ Ce
r3me Mile cleo de Merode. Nine Severihe ana
Comtesse "Gyp."
CHARMING HATS.
uare ara a few hats that remained In memory
A charming affair Of white straw was loaded win
tulle rufies accordion-pleated. white alternating
with red over the crown swung an airy Hass Vi
white aigrettes. with a centre formed Oh '"o ''u
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
THE TRIBUNE PATTERN.
A TJssUE.PAPER PATTERN OF LADIES'
SHIRT WAIST WITH BLOUSE FRONT. NO.
1orn ROD COIrpON AND 4 GENTS

1850 FOR COUPON AND 10 CENTS.
One OF the most becoming OF the many new
styles OF shirt waists introduced this summer. IS
here represented in wash silk. The collar Is
OF white linen. The waist Is encircled by green
leather belt and q soft tie OF green surah COM
pletes the neck. Fitted Innings provided in
the pattern. which can be omitted II not desired
The full fronts are gathered at the shoulders. neck
and lower edges and droop In French pouch or
blouse style over the belt. The back Is gathered
at the neck and waistline where the funess Is
massed In centre The lower edge extends to
basque length and Is worn under the dress skirt
A rundown collar, mounted on high band. An
ishes the neck, which can be made permanent or
removable at pleasure, q fitted neckband being
provided In the pattern to which the collar Is but
toned when made separately. The sleeves are fash
ionaby full, being disposed In gathers at the
upper and lower edges Slashed openings at the
back are finished with laps and the turnback cuffs
in two sections be made permanent or re-
movable as desired. This style Of shirt waist Is
particularly adapted TO the plain and fancy batises
now the vogue, lawn. dimity, orsandie and soft
wash silks developing stylish waists by the mode
To make this shirt vast for a woman OF medium
size will require 3s yards OF thrtysix-inch mate
rial The pattern No 1850. is cut In sizes for
&C. "a, &c. 2s. 40 and 42-nch bust measure
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

49,
Sunshine Society column to those shut in and the
many who derive pleasure from the perusal or the
contributions Is inestmable tender you my con-
tribl tion trusting the comfort CLEANED from Its
words will remain with many IL VIII aHoro me
much pleasure TO forward The Cosmopolitan. to to
Mrs Mary A. Wills, Of Chelsea VI, the middle Oh
e"'" ''o"''' ANNIE W. sCHOFIELD.
THE SOLITARY WAY.
psalm evil. 10
There is n mystery in human hearts.
And though we be encircled by host ST..
OF those who love well. and are beloved
To every one OF us. from time to time
There comes sense OF utter loneliness;
our dearest friend is stranger to our PAIN
And cannot realize our bitterness.
"There is not one who really understands
Not ore TO enter into all feel!'
Such is the cry Of each of us In turn
we wander IN "a solitary way,
oc m1 heart VIM" myst ol even to Itself
Must live its inner life In solitude
And would you know the reason why this ISL
Il is because the Lord desires our love-
In every heart He wishes to be first i.,,
He therefore keeps the secret key itlmseH
TO open ali its chambers and to bless.
With perfect sympathy and holy p H,a
Each solitary soul which comes 10 HIM.
&c. when we feel this loneliness. 1t is,
voice f Of se7"s s4s GSms %
II Is another call to us 10 come;
For Christ alone can satisfy the, SOUL
And those who walk with Him from day to day
Can never have "a solitary way ,sfE
Then II beneath some great trial you faint,
And say az cannot bear this load alone.
You say the truth-Chrst made 1t purposey
So heavy that you must leave II to Him.
The bitter grief which mo one understands,
CONVEYS a secret message from the Lord.
Entreating you TO come to Him with 1t.
Tho Man OF Sorrows understands II well;
In ali points tempted, He can feel with youi
You cannot come too often, or too near.
The Son Of God ia infinite In grace,
His presence satisfies the longing soul.
And those who walk with Him from day TO day
Can never have "a solitary way
Annie ". Schofeld; Your words OF appreciation
are much enjoyed and your sunny helpfulness
make. YOU a valuable Sunshine member.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
|H 29E5 III ALK5
APPETIZING FRUIT SALADS.

The fruit salad IS IN especially appetizing course
to introduce at spring breakfast. properly SPEAK
ing this dish is not salad because 1t Is not saiteo
as a salad by its derivation shouid DE. Inc hA"o
is given to 1t, however. by popular usage because
1t acts as tonic the appetite. To this END IL Is
often favored with a dash of brandy or marasquino
Perhaps the most successful of these salads Is
prepared from the grape fruit which Is no" ra'Seu
in immense quantities in Florida and elsewhere 10
supply the fashionable demand for IT. The g[a ape
fruit is species OF the shaddock or Which the,e
are many other varieties. It Is also called the bit;
tersweet shaddock The shaddock was n hoav
a curiosity and to decorate forelgn irult stans ~
Is of the largest fruits of the citrus or 0rahse
The The great rose shaddock formerly raised IN
Havana has an MISUNDERSTANDING pulp or pale
rose tint II is too acid in flavor, and not &C.
.ceptable generally on the table The combination TS
Crap fruit has very juicy pulp with something
OF the refreshing flavor of wild grape aodeo 10
This fruit is such valuable Tonic In the spring Ing
that 1t is unfortunate that the Florida supply n ne
has fairly opened.
RED BANANAS.
Luscious red bananas make delicious breakfast
salad While they do not possess the tonic bitter
of the grape fruit, they offer refreshing change
This banana Is the result Of grating the root STOCK
of the common yellow banana, and Is raised chieny
az Raracoa The little Guinea or fig banana with
a flavor sweet "a honey. Is not often prougn, 70
this country, because the entire supply Is used IN
the tropics. These bananas occdsloHdiiy houii"
In the markets Of New-Oreans and other SUBJ
tropic cities. The banana. when served IN me
tropics where It grows IL generally divided length
wise For breakfast, chill the banana and sprinkle
a dash of brandy or marasquno over 1t. The ordi-
nary red banana will need a little sugar unless II IS
dead ripe" but the fig banana. with its melting
honey tinctured pulp. will need no such addition.
STRAWBERRIES
Strawberries with sugar and cream, with lttie
marasouino sprinked them, make good
salad for breakfast.
Prunes stoned carefully soaked, stewed and
sweetened with half cup Of sugar to half a
mound OF fruit may be favored with cup OK
bordeaux wine. They should be stewed very
slowly for three or four hours before adding the
sugar Add the yellow rind OF q lemon with II;
Lei the prunes simmer half an hour longer "a. ana %
add the wine Let them heat up again. and tnen
nut them away in a covered crock. Serve them
cold for reakfast, with q little whipped cream.
PEACHES.
For still another breakfast relish. cut up ripe
neaches stew over canned ones. or soak and stew
| the evaporated fruit. adding sugar: Add wine
glass Of good brandy TO dozen na!t-sllces OF tne
fruit Serve cold, with cream. Cook apricots the
| same way
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

grenadines net built white silk with white
trimmings. and often a coored belt.
BLACK AND WHITE.

Most effective was costume which carried out
the black and white scheme. The material was a
figured grenadine built white silk. the black
overskirt being quite full About the hem were
two narrow ruffles of the material edged by line
of narrow white satin ribbon. On the bodice the
thin stuff was gathered in line OF shirring up the
middle OF the front and back. and terminating at
the hem In points. The space remaining was filled
In by a tucked yoke OF white satin. and tucks also
formed the choker. over which at the back fell
double fril of finely pleated black and white NOUS
seine de soie The hat rather large and was
made of alternate strips Of white straw and tiny
black moussene de sole rufiies. On one side was
n bunch of yellow and black sunfowers. the dwarfed
and ragged kind. The crown of the hat encirI
cled by attempt at the same flowers, with petals
of white straw and centres consisting of yellow
dot In pun of black chiffon.
A black and white checked silk made dainty
costume, with skirt ruiiled in apron fashion and
blouse of cream lace over yellow silk Sleeves and
odd jacket pieces were of the silk and scarf of
violet satin made the waist band.
APRON EFFECTS.
Apron effects seemed TO trim half of the best
gowns displayed. Tailor-made cloth skirts had
of braid arranged in deep circles in front and
rising high behind, and gowns of silk or thin
stufs ruffes took the place of the fiat trimming.
These rufies were sometimes continued over the
back breadth, the top one reaching to within
few inches of the waist line else they disap-
cloth behind. either fashion giving slight bouffant
effect to the gown.
canvas material. drawn In small openwork
squares formed the motif for several gowns. One
of ecru, mounted over green silk, had bodice
trimmed with lattice work of green velvet bands.
The soliel pleated skirts were less in number than
would a.. winch the Sklrt was
only half pleated was novel and agreeable. The
material IA green MORE six colnolned with a
lightweight wool of the same color. The SILK
made the apron which reached TO the hem OF the
front breadth and continued up the sides of the
skirt in steps, the last steps uniting In tab be-
hind about foot deep. deep and elaborate
trimming Of lace embroidery edged the SILK and
the rest Of the skirt OF the finely pleated WOOL
Tne bodice blouse of the WOOL with a. SNORT
Jacket of the silk crossing to one side and held
under a bunch of black and white gauze. This
Jacket was opened In the back and edCed about
with lace. Accordon-pleated rufes of black and
white gauze made the chokcr and trimmed the top
of the long shirred sleeves.
POPULAR GAUZE.
Gauze seems quite popular ever wrapped
about the throat and tied in huge bows. either be-
hind or under the chin. Gauze wells also worn.
gathered in soft folds about the hat-brim and
crossed and brought about to tie under the chin.
There was one thing missed at this years
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
IN "VARNISHING DAY"
r,JANPs ELYsEES SALON FULL OF
PEOPLE WHO GO TO SEE
OTHER PEOPLE
-,,yrrNT FASHIONS OF PARIs-DAINTY NOV
ELITES. EMRSoiDERIEs. PAssEMENTERiES
AND FLOWER EFFECTS.

ur,rs EMReoIpERIEs. PAssEMENTERIEs
AND FLOWER EFFECTS.
Paris. April %. 1897
r,s hrst vernissage OF the season. WHEN nap
ms this year be the opening day OF the
Champs Elysees Salon, Is supposed TO really deme
~, ,s being worn. As costumes appear en-
.as.e instead of in isolated instances. one OBJ
..,rs an excellent general idea Of what new whims
"a turns Of the wheel have become popular
oot,ng down from the balcony on the kaieido-
..or,c mass Of bonnets on the main floor there
.. always TO be discovered some predom'nating
- and the Salon color may be said to be the
rccessful one OF the season. Two years ago IL
vas buet. last year green. and to-day pr>sht
.bade Of coral pink. Therefore. coral is the shade
,o-aav and very pretty 1t IL unless too violently
combined with red.
r, must be admitted that the Salon as costume
a,sn,av Is not what IT was and as the vernissage
-ovd is TOO dense TO allow one TO have any Idea
~ the pictures. save that the walls are covered
NTH them and that 'skyed' canvas has its
,,,ur,nh on this occasion. Il Is little wonder that
,be visitors. including many who hurry to Paris
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
srRPOLETTE EMBROIDERY.

In describing and telling you how TO- 90 w ,raI IS
newest the way of fancy work. aIWays n III inc
which are easily obtainabe. and long praetcal e4 *
many authorities on the subject, has shown me that
often the simplest kinds are the prettest. o,o.s
At most fancy shops you will get d0ilcs, sachets
and many fancy articles ready traced Upon whicI
designs can be rrled out In the Honiton ana
noint -lace bratds to be had equally easily.
You will find this embroidery called by various
names Ideal Tioniton is one, serpolette anotner'
and So on: but serpolette is think, the most &C
curate as the braid is often laid on in serpentlKe
windings crossed a second time by the same; ne
"suai Wav of working this Is to the ordinary
lace stitches between the spaces left by the BRAID
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

20 assis. a. this supposedly important iuho"'s
rerience some disappointment.
Next wear shall Jacket suit ana 20
early IN the morning" said pretty woman VINO
sel, that her dainty toilet had been more crusheu
than apprecated. "And next year said you'ie
r,,s, who had been acting as escort for party OF
friends and relatives. Il shall so--into the cou"
try" 49,. ra
rhsra were many excuses made for the cro"o
-. ,,s ,,ck ~ .'chicness." The space is limited
.h,s yea,,,. "Easter Monday brings out hohoay
oroud who wear their ugly best frocks' ana IN
CONTRAST the smart set dress quietly; AL Far's
came IN the morning in morning Dress ana wen"
"a .bs Ionrcbamps races in the afternoon. and
gowns are not pretty this year. was 'he maj
and masculine verdict o,, 4.
This Of course Is our adieu TO the fa'ais oe
,.Indpstrie Next year are promised d TIC"
Salon where every one will have a foot or space
although the site Of this building Is still IN the
clouds Let us hope 1t will be an appropriate set
tive for dainty costumes. This has been one OF
the few occasions when a visitor could see the
Nnerv Of the wei-bred Parsienne and certainly the
lac. vernissage was no for gay plumage'
The bright and elaborate costumes looked sao!y out
~ ,lace What the differences between this and
nrAv,ous wears consisted In seems too subtle 10
define The horse show had been closed for moro
than a week and yet there was an odor OF sawdust
over the lower floor and there was certainly
thick atmosphere Of dust IN the upper nails anu OH
the wide stairway.
SIMPLE TOILETS.
The toilets which seemed the prettiest we're the
simple ones depending cut and style and some
clever dash Of color for effect and can be described
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

IN few words One simple but beautifully maze
gown of black poplin worn with neck ruche
Of scarlet tulle and straw hat loaded with pop
pies. A gown Of black canvas stun sho"eo a
white lining through the loose meshes and black
and white tue trimmed the bodice, while the SASH
Of pink velvet matched the toque In color Black
and white seemed favorite combination, and
there were several gowns OF thin plain or figured
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
ROCK FOR CLIPPINGS.

pr.s,dent-Ceneral Of the T. g. S.: For long time
7 have been interested in your Woman's Page. and
have been wondering II you know about an ar
rangement to take tho place OF a scrapbook Take
two pieces OF stiff cardboard On one with your
brush and water-colors mark clippings; inside
Mace several ordinary envelopes. each marked
differently viz one art" another Jokes. another
recipes" Tie the pieces OF cover and envelopes
inside with tiny ribbons at the back II is mes,
pensive ard convsnisnt v WOULD in ke 10 become
member OF your l. . D. ''''' F. X. BANTA.
E. X B.: Thanks for your suggestion, about I'll, the
sent you and your name has been placed on the
President General of the T. s. s.: live In the
country and shall be glad to send twlgs. nave
some apple peach and cherry trees leaning out ana
canning into blossom In my window, and they are ex
ceedingly pretty Please let me know who would like
aomA The inclosed lines may be helpful to some
49,, IN member You would have a large subscrp-
Ton list if everybody enjoyed The Tribune as much
o as : do Truly yours CLARA G. WOOD.
TO THE "SHUT-INs."
Do our eyes fail with weeping.
While We vigil keeping,
His promise faileiR never.
10 I am with you ever
All the night.
We shall see them in the morning.
And soon will be the dawnlng
or the day
We shall then forget the fears
All the cares and bitter tears
MRS. v. A. LEWIS.
Found among Mrs LIS papers in penoillins after
"e Clara c. Wood: Send twg, to Mrs. Frances Stod-
dard No Montrose-st.. Roxbury District. Boston
Mass She is eighty years ola and Is c0ssed nn TO W nsl
be posted to YOU
President-General Of the T. g. g.: delighted to
wear the pretty little club PIN and hope 1t Will
nd - "pss II slo had no
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

selecting any OF the stitches already furnished you
This mode OF treating 1t, however is not half SO
pretty as the effect gained by the use or seoulns
and beads in preference, the result Deihs WucH
more OF the common.
A SMALL DOLLY.
The design-an ordinary one-is found upon pale
green satin. The braids used are OF two kinds.
each of the ovals being threequarters OF an inch
deep and over n quarter wide In the widest part.
ana the straight being about a seventh or an inch
wide ~,
Tho braids laid on are tackled down with a few
fine mperceptible stitches and then the beads ana
sequns are put on. , - A., ,,
Use strong waxeG cotton for sewing on the beads
and scouins; silk too quickly gets cut through.
rrho senuins and beads used here are OF 4 lovely
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

quilts while bunch Of red roses fell on the mar;
Anot 1er was a toaue with upright brim faced
with firm of bright red tulle The stray ~ was
Anot 1er of green straw had punches OF lacs "aV,
Ing from it. and band Of purple tulle showed
about the brlm.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

President General Of the L. 3. 81 WISH 10 s"o
the Sunshine members who are doing Fancy worh
,ho bere6, of q suggestion l got out of The
American Queen" 1t is combination OF lacewoiN
and embroidery. | utilize all the stltches lu s
nished I'm the Sunshine column. ana nave Hi MH
some beautiful pillow squares ana toiiet se's' "'
work is called serpolette embroidery. ro,,o>-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
HOW TO SERVE GRAPE FRUIT.

The best way TO grape fruit is the simplest
Peel off all the outer rind, pthy inner skin and
finally the thin membrane covering the pulp
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

. Rev W b Hare Missionary Bishop OF South Da-
kota for whom the guild is now Torkins from me
Rev It. j. Lacey. assistant OF st. Luke,s Pansh,
Brooklyn and from the Rev. j. A.. Gilhan; who
is in Charge OF the White Earth Reservation In
Minnesota.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
ORANGES.


Valencia oranges, freed from their skins. seeds
and as much Of the inner membrane around the
nuIn az can bs removed make an excellent intro
ductory cours> to breakfast Crate off about half
the sweet red-yeow peel. Prepare the pulp ana ,ha
grated pulp OF the orange Serve half an orange
10 an Individual as this course is intended merely
as an introduction to the moro substantial courses
of eggs. outlets or chops.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

has been painted. a dainty little wall-banner Will
be the result? The banner may be swung by "a orass
rod and chain, and the lower end frnged or thin
pencil may put a each end and a narrow ribbon
used 10 hang II by Yours very truly, H. b. l.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

Remove the seeds. Scatter little sugar over
the NUN which should be ice cold. and dash
marasquno over IT, Sometimes a tablespoonful OF
good cognac Is preferred
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

St. Agatha's Guild a progressive society con-
nected with st. Georges Church. Hampstead. Long
Island had meeting in the interest OF missions
on Monday afternoon at the home OF Mrs. E. r.
Cloves Mrs. J. II. Seabury. the vice president.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

Letters have been received from Jean soue'
al. n w." Mrs II. s. NJ" Helen X COOK NJ
A G "a F. D." ID r. A." IS b" and Mrs
y T. I Drnmmond &c. A." NJ. W. Catn. Mary a
Devinc Sara r. Edwards and Mrs. j. G. SHERWOOD
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
IN HONOR OF
MRS. ELIZABETH BoYNroN HARBERr
FROM THE
EVANSTON wOMAN's CLUB.

Mrs Hsrbert has also been honored with the
title Of president emeritus
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09

President General OF the T. g. s.: am delighted 10
wear the pretty little club PIN and hope 1t will
be reminder 10 pass II along" had no idea that
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-05-09
POPULAR GAUZE.

Gauze seems quite popular as ever wrappe
about the throat and tied in huge bows. either be
hind under the chin. Gauze wells are also worr
gathered In soft folds about the hat-brm an
crossed and brought about to tie under the chin.
There was one thing missed at this year