The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1897-08-19

Paris correspondence of New York
Press, Autumn's first hats are in the
windows. BY autumn is not meant the
last days OF fall. when the leaves drop
from the trees, but the between-season
when summer hats are too light and too
faded, and the feminine soul longs for
something new,
The first hats Of autumn viii be dis
tinctly Gainsborough. The most decld-
eddy picturesque of them all is the Es-
sex Gainsborough. which has a little
English walkins-hat crown, with a
broad. sweeping brim. upturned at one
side and slightly curling at the other.
This hat is velvet or fine straw one
absolutely covered with white plumes
Another Gainsborough turns up In
the back. II Is white, with load OF
black piumes that curl over the temple
and fall over the hair
A modified Galnsborough Is up-tllted
at the back and curling In front. The
sides are broad and the trimming
consists Of ribbon with few feathers
10 give softness to the top, back and
sides.
A pretty little hat that is called the
widow Galnsborough" has brim
slashed in front, into which lace and
flowers are set This gives an admirable
opportunity for chiffon. The top is trim
med with soft flowers, delicate tulle and
a single black ostrich feather that gives
the note OF black. The hat Is turned up
at the back. and under the rear OF the
brim Is set lace and flowers, or tulle ro-
settes.
The waists that are 20 be worn with
these hats are called Jackets" II they
have the slightest approach to the boil
ero effector II the outside can be slipped
off. Most Of the Waists have removable
yokes that look and act as little capes.
A delightful waist, also To be worn
with the Gainsborough. is OF dotted In
dia silk with vest OF solid passemen-
terIe surrounded by rufiie OF India
silk.
Glrdles will be much worn, and they
will be made OF silk OF all colors.
There are many styles of jackets to
choose from this season. The bolero Is
trimmed in such divers ways as to In
sure 1t against becoming monotonous
while its extraordinary popularity lasts.
The little sack coat Is not as popular
as II has been. The jacket with the
straight ny front that fits close into the
figure at the back is the smart Jacket
OF the moment, especially for cloth
gowns designed for travelling or shop
ping, OF outing gowns that are to be
worn with shirt waists.
Dressy gowns and even evening
gowns are made often with boleros, OF
the trimming is put on the gown to give
the effect OF a bOlero Jacket.
The extra drcssy little jackets that
are to be slipped on over gown to
add an air Of festivity are exhibited IN
the most astonishing numbers at the
shops
The black grenadlne gowns that are
so popular now lend themselves so pref
tily to this new plan OF Frightening NJ
with bright silk Jackets.
One OF the smartest OF these little
Jackets Is made OF white taneta. The
tafteta forms narrow bias folds that
cover the pale hetiotrope satin lining tn
perpendicular strips. The jacket does
not TT into the curves Of the figure. hui
files loose and fastens to the left side
where there is cascade OF white NOUS
Hellne de sole. There are no sleeves &c
this Jacket. but broad epaulettes are
formed with three folds OF the taffeta
that extend far over the sleeve OF the
gown. The collar IL q high, straight
one, OF violet velvet, mounted by frll
OF white mOussellne de sole.