The times., 1897-09-26
AUTUMN HEADGEAR.

liOHb again tiliS season, iney VIII ulNIGe
the honors with the smart little toque and
Gcnteel round hat this winter. Picture hats
are always in favor, and the tip-lifted af-
fairs recently much exploited in certain
periodicals are apt TO give their wearers a
rakish air not at all desirable. This cafe
chanta6t angle viii doubtless find favor
with the soubrette and half world gcner-
ally, but not tolerated by the woman W who is
strictly good form, and Will soon find its
way 10 the mOsic halls, where it properly
belongs Worn at the proper angle, how
ever, and with B happy compromise on It's
too Frcncty features, the Gainsboro is gen
orally becoming, most successful and tre-
mendously effective, as we can see III the
old ivory nariature, when worn with the
supplementary fiChu over the bare neck and
arms.
novel trimming for round hats is the
Japanese dnck the whole bird legs and
feet complete An artistic twiTl of net,
velvet or chiffon around the crown, aud
continued over the top in two pieces, the
whole forming sort Of nest, and on this
the bird s placed. The iridesce Mt tints are
very effective against a soft, light back
giound. The Owls head, with solemn eyes
and fluffy breast, is a smart trimming for
toques PhcasaRts' tails are also a very
81 ylish finish for English round hats
White lace wells, in point applique, VIII be
extensively used 10 soften felt brfns \
very stylish hat is of brown felt. with vel.
vet puff around the crown, ostrich tips at
the side, and large satin bow in the back.
Tie straiGlt briin is bound with velvet,
and a white lace ven is lightly draped fG
front AID caught up in loops and knots
under the irim in the back, On dark and
light hair this thinning is equally dis
tinsuished and relief from themultitudi-
nous flowers of the late season.
4 very handsome toilet is OF armure de
sole, very much trimmed with lace The
skirt is draped with a double box plait
III the back and is flat on the sides and in
front. The lace s in points in front, three
rows forming an apron and continuing
round the back. On eaoh side OF the front
Tie lace forms double point. The body is
tighi-fiitsBg with d little basque coming
from under the bCit. The middle OF the
front ferns a wuisteoat or flat Blaits
with two reyers In cascade effect, lace on
silk opcDins 3ver it andforHing high col
iarfiuiGhcd with a little plisse of rnuu sSeline
dc sole. I he sleeve Is senli-houffant The
black hat Worn with this is a stunning ar
rair the old Valentine, very much turned up
q the left side, and trifleon the right rs
well, very fail plaitings Of mousseline de
sole ard two long ostrich fea Tiers curling
gracefully from the front. One solitary
flower, poppy, for instance. breaks the
rather stiff ontliEe on the left side
pretty gown is of fancy wool The
skirt is IN little flat piaits on the front
and siecs, and fuller in the back The
bodice ia the back and SIDES of front is
tight fitung, ana in the rdddle OF front
IS plated and outlined with embroidery
in diainond-shape comet velvet. The
| neck IL square, over d chenisette OF ba-
tiste trimmed with the same A piece
Of black velvet outlines the square at the
neck above the t,irnming. The sleeve
has little more than the usual fuIlness
above, end epaujettes as well. A saucy
little round hat is worn with this costume,
trimreed with Scotch plaid ribbons and
needle feather.
A pretty frock for autumn weather is
-of navy blue cashmere. The skirt is side
plated all around. The corsage blouse
with basque, is opened in front and back
and braided il small, scroH-like pat
tern. The square yoke is braided, and
OPENS IN a point over a plated plastron,
with high collar, which is trimmed with
lace. Tha yoke is braided like the BASQUE.
in a small scroll. The sleeve is medium
tight, with a very little fuIlness at the
| top. With this is worn a velvet tooue
| trimmed with ostrich feathers. A hand
some toilet is OF dark MORE changeable
silk The skirt is trimmed with a deli
cate outline OF embroidery forming n
/ band The effect of this is quite novel
| and The rrpire makes most effective back
| ground.
The body s a blouse, the back a little
| fun at the waist and fiat above. The
fronts arc full at the top, and open over a
| chcmiselte Gf nlonss cline de sole which has
| a bright, straight collar with lace, plated
very full. and falling over the back: a
! large bow and ends OF Inouss cline de sole
/ is in front. The pointed reyers are en-
| broidered iii the same patterns as the skirt
| The back Is decollette ever the chenisette
| The folded belt IS closed at the side with a
| Stirring over whalcbmes A fancy little
silk rnching finishes the revers and the
| front of the bodice. The Sleeve is tight.
! with a slight fnllness at the top, and is
! cut very long, with fan OF lace over the
! hand. With this is Worn d medium sized
| hat, with pie-crust velvet brin This
is turned up at the sides and back with a
rolling effect in front. 1t has a full beef
eater crown and bird OF paradise for trim
| ming. Velvet roses in the back.
a very stylish gown is of cloth. The
! skirt is plated in the back and trimmed
! on the bottom with little galoons crossed
| and bordered by a bias pique or point
| SurmOunted with a Soutaeha hraid Tho
| basque is round, with a corsagc vest.
the fronts are slightly open and trimmed
! with g6lloons to initiate reYers This
| trimming is continued over the top Of the
sleeve, which s almost tight fitting, and
| long over the hand in two points. A large
bow Of mousseline de sole with jabot makes
! becoming finish. With this is worn an
Ingiish straw hat very simply trimmed
with shaded silk and black wings
handsome gown is OF solid navy blue.
| The skirt gathered In the back The
/ body is n blouse with a turn-dowp collar
| over a standing one. The frock is but
/ toned at the side and has wide rever of
! plated suTah trimmed with lace, fastened
/ to the right. The sleeve mi-bouffant
! pretty frock is in novelty goods in
green. The skirt is trimmed apron-fa sh-
! ion. The bodice has the same trimming
| as the skirt, one strip across the bust and
| large collar extending over the sleeves.
The sleeve is cut in one piece, with n
slight fullness at the top. With this Is
Worn very stylish round hat, with n
wide brim, trimmed with ruching of
gauze and group OF wings arranged fan.
shaped
Women are divided into two distinct