Omaha daily bee., 1897-03-21

80 ~ =" VIII lANNAAAs hhhAta bA1Sh 1Ai
muslin, edged by a fine quilting OF blacl
silk muslin ribbon, that has a narrow satli
edge. By the use OF this band the skirt Il
so divided as to give the lower half all tn
appearance of a deep scant %nounce, growing
full and airy at the back. The upper por
ton fits the hips rather snugly, and on some
OF the new gowns this band ia replaced by
rows Of corded gathers, over which the uppeI
half Of the skirt pouches a little. One very
pretty p%etticoat has several rows of lace
beading inserted where the satin band Il
laid and narrow ribbons. to exactly match
the various colors in the foulard, run through
the beading and are tied in full rosettes al
the side.
Not yet have we lone with the pouchinr
waist front, as plainly showed by bodice oil
this gown. In common with so many of tht
last Paris fabrications, the front Of the waist
is all Of cream white aatin, fitting over the
bust without a wrinkle, hooking up under
the arm and on the left shoulder. Upon this
Is draped a pinafore front, made of foulard
with three narrow, long crescents cut from
1t across the bust and filled In with figured
black silk muslin. Slightly pouching in
front a folded scarf belt of white satin gives
the waist line finish, while over the slightly
pulled tops of the close-ftting sleeves fall
handkerchief points of silk muslin, edged
with quillings. Over the foulard back of the
waist, from the handkerchief points, a sim
pie drapery of muslin folds down to the bot
tom of the basque and then let's fall upon the
skirt, two short leaf-shaped sash tabs. edged
all about by the pretty quilting. Such short
tabs, on the very smart costumes, have taken
the place of long, orthodox sashes, that
promise to be early vulgarized by too gem
eral and enthusiastic adoption. and this suit
Is an exemplifcation of the fact that white
lace, In an abundance, is to be used in all
neck decorations.
NECK DECORATIONS.
So far there Is nothing actually novel
to chronicle of collars. The dressmaker
rather leaves this point to the taste of her
customer, insisting on nothing and giving
this one an old-fashioned stock, that one
a stern high plain tailors' band, turning
lace tabs, but only allowing a slender WIS.,
age to endure the delicate lace or silk mus
lin boiulloues under either ear and full at
the back. Though it is perfectly true that
the bell-shaped skirt is our destiny through
out the summer, and in behalf of the light
goods that so lend thems selves 10 spreading
bouffante grace, a modified umbrella pat
tern is going to be used by women who led
in fashion.
A case in point is the black silk null
gown displayed. 1t illustrates two laws of
spring dressmaking, that every skirt, in a
goods, must be flOunced, and that a
founce laying any claim to modtrnity must
be cut on the bias. Thig lovely toilet is
built of a perfectly new null, checked with
a black silk line, and every flounce edged
with an inch wide footing of black silk mus
All this cool, stately beauty is draped
over q eolden-brown %taffe.a, the mousque-
taire sleeves banded with narrow bronze
brown velvet ribbon ad miroir velvet, of the
shade, forming the girdle and collar.
On the simple waist a band of figured silk
appears and a touch of cream point
d'Alencon ut the throat relieves the airy
gloom of this very delicate suit, meant to
be worn with the very gayest of hats.
CHARMING HATS.
1t is on the hat where color, and plenty of
1t, shall com in this season, for in tailor
suits one of the leading combinations is
black and white. The trying severity, yet
effectiveness, of this arrangement
appears in the spring walking suit, that will
serve only as a snare and a false friend to
any but the most SHINY built woman. I'm
fortunately stout, short individuals will fall
a prey to it, for the tailor looks aghast If he
is asked to make a coat with the least
Of a shade of tail. BY way of i'm
mense concession, he will, If driven into a
corner, give one a short, or very long, pos
tillion tabs behind, but 1t Is rank heresy to
on a blessed bit of curtaining over the
and hips. The walking suit sketched
the new tailor-made accordion skirt,
Of rich satiny-surfaced black ladies' cloth.
skirt Is laid In sunray plaits. That is,
ieep and close at the top and broad and shall
at the bottom. 1t Is hung separately
IN a silk sham, and Is topped off by a jacket
If white ladies' cloth decorated a lie mill
ARE. with black silk braid. while a full
.abot of lace falls from the throat. Exceed
ngly smart variations on this are made in
skirts OF black worn with green cloth coats.
heavily braided in brown, or black skirts and
,oats of Ophelia purple ladies' cloth, braided
n black and tinsel. The sleeves of the new
'st coats are cut with a most infnitesimal
ullness at the shoulder, and later on coats
ike this will be thrown open In front, to
'Xhibit shirts Of scarlet percale and linen
will. frightened by wee black or white
dots and showing broad box plaits
own the bosom. White turnover collars
nd white cuffs distinguish this rather vivid
inen.
POPLINS AND LACE.
So far the only direct use we will appar-
ntly have for lace is to decorate the molred
oplina referred to before. 1t seems to be
ecided that lace is their one affinity in the
iay Of trimmings and heavy ecru batiste
ace, now made with wonderful ineness and
eauty of design, Is the appropriate species.
IN a clever little toilet complete for a
pring trousseau the watered poplin was in
ne of the novelty shades called silver blue,
deep, almost sapphire, tint in the folds,
to silver white on top OF the creases.
n ecru batiste lace flounce was, by bou-
uets OF blue baby velvet ribbon, caught
D the skirt ten inches below the hip line,
nd the waist. unrelieyed save by a shoulder
ertha formed of three falls OF lace, had
IS front done on a Paris mode, than which
here is nothing more recent. That is gath
red and drawn in full horizontal wrinkles
cross the bust to fasten under the left
rm. These wrinkled fronts are invariably
ccompanied by full gathered mousquetaire
eeves that now frequently have a narrow
ill of lace gathered the length Of the out
de seam. NINA FITCH.
LONGEVITY AMONG WOMEN