Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-06-19


would lose their effect completely ard blur
into one smoky smooch under the dark
skies of London. The patriotic young
English woman in this June of the queens
jubilee takes her daily walk in tailor
gown of dark blue face cloth, the skirt OF
which differs from the corresponding thing
in New York only in that it Is considerably
shorter. From the corresponding thing in
Paris 1t differs also in that no English
woman ever yet learned to lift 1t as a
French woman lifts her skirt, SO as to at
ford free view of all the laces and ribbons
Of her underwear, while You would swear
she had not raised it from the ground. The
young Briton pulls UP her skirt frankly,
even brutally, for her ankles are not apt
to be nice to see.
1t Is only as to the skirt that one can
institute comparisons, for one cannot put
an English gentle woman against a French
demi -mondaine, and III Franco nobody but
the commemorative would be seen in the
scarlet and gold of the bodice that in Lon
don finishes the fashionable jubilee cos
tune. Scarlet Is dubious color in France,
yellow is almost a confession of immoral
ity, but in London the daintiest and most
modest of maidens look upon the royal red
waistcoat and the gold OF the braid upon
her trim Elton jacket as the fittest colors
to proclaim her up-to-dateness and her
loyalty to the queen.
An English Combine ton.
Red. blue and yellow; that Is the English
combination, strong and self-assertive. Yes,
and white, for tall and choky stock COL
lar goes with the tailor costume These
are primary colors. Anybody can put them
together and they pound in their impress
sion. 1t takes no study to see what they
mean. hard sailor hat of red and white
mixed straw, with a red and black ribbon
band, is the recognized headgear for this
dress. Add white washing VEIL
A frenchWoman of the same position has
horror of primary colors. Her promenade
gown might be mauve, rather a pale mauve
braided delicately with white silk, with
white chiffon bodice front and mauve hat
with white flowers. Just as conspicuous?
Heaven forbid that Should accuse any
woman Of any nationality of hiding her
light under bushel. but the French meth
cd is the more complex; it goes around cor
ners to reach its mark, while the English
takes hedges and bitches straight away.
The newest color both in Paris and Lon
don this summer is called 'cerise," but is
much more delicate tint than any hither-
to known by that maine. lit is the red
cerise softened with something like hint
OF fawn. Paris wears II indoors. London
covers hats with II andI so calls attention
to another difference between the fashions
OF the two capitals; London hat has its
flowers on one side only; Paris hats are
wreathed with flowers an the way around.
Pretty and Eraesful.
There is only one department in which
English fashions have any prettiness or
grace. certain stiff smar9ness is aimed
at with every fabric except Imuslin. but in
the making up of the light printed muslins
SO much IN favor this season, London dress
makers rival Parisians. This seems to be
because Londoners feel II DUTY at present
to be early Victorian. and the full skirts
ana nchus OF the days when the widow Of
WlnosQr was young 60 as well in art mus
I'm as they go Ill In all sttnfs less filmy.
me state balls and other functions Of
the jubilee season have given the hair
dressers chance to introduce early Vic
Iorian coinnres, which ere about as success
tul as could be expected. the punches Ct
cherries which are accepted as the hall
marx OF the style dropping behind the ears
eMo upon the neck with no stronger sugges-
Ton OF masquerade than IL inevitable For
the rest court costumes are richer and more
eounosnt than usual, for everybody who
mas the right to appear before the holder of
the record In reigning nocks to do SO with
true sporting enthusiasm. Mrs. Hay and Miss
day. the wife and daughter Of the Ameri-
can minister. have established their POSI-
uon aiready as mistresses Of the art OF
costumery. Mrs. Hay attended state ball
lew evenings ago In gown of opAline
end pale mauve brocade, embroidered with
saives ana mauve ssQuins and diamonds.