davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28

can make some really pretty little things
patience, but let the dressmaker handle
The foundations, unless you have had
considerable amount of experience.
Last summer l was much amused at
one young woman who was constantly
telling her friends about how she had
made all her light dresses. Well, she is
regular beanpOle, so she had all the silk
slips most carefully fitted and padded by
one of the best women here, and then she
really did make the little confections of
muslin and lace, for which she received
mum berless pliments, but she never
told who made those lovely slips, and we
can all take leaf from her book and 60
and do likewise, and thus have a ward
robe full of really charming garment at
the smallest possible outlay, but the sum
absolutely necessary for our girls 10 ex-
pend for their frocKs will be considerable
during the next few weeks if they have
aspirations to be smartly robed, as a great
deal more trimming must be used on all
dresses this summer, and therein lies
the expense, for example, from 200 to
400 yards OF lace and almost the same
number OF yards of insertion, figure, on
one simple little organdy, which has a
creamy gown covered with natural seized
Duchess de Brabant rosebuds, made over
a rose pink glace silk foundation.
Almost as pretty was one of pure white
over pale-green silk. It had mum berless
frills, on every one of which were three
rows of narrow green satin ribbon. Such
dainty belongings cannot be owned by us
I
afford several such dresses-of course. l
am most all the while thinking of those
who go out great deal or entertain con-
iderably-should instead seIecttwo pretty
light taffeta silks and have them made
perfectly, with different vests or tichus of
mousseline or chiffon, and they will give
an immense amount of satisfaction at the
smallest possible expenditure, for GER
tain outlay is absolutely necessary for any
one who has any ambition ITO keep up
with the procession" otherwise take my
advice stay at home and only see your
intimate friends.
know true story about a very fash
ionablc New York matron who had two
beautiful daughters, who had Just made
their debut most successfully in the ap-
proacbing spring. She informed her hus-
band what sum would be necessary to
supply their wardrobes for Newport and
lie promptly told her that such an amount
he could not afford. having ust suffered
financial loss. This wife did not weep.
but calmly thought about the situation,
and arrived at this inclusion that to go to
Newport without certain frocks was not
10 be thought OF, to stay in the baking
city would cause remarks, which would
lead to explanations which might affect
her daughters prospects. So remember
ing that her uspand had lost an aunt in
London, she calmly said: "My dear, we
will 60 into mourning for Aunt Sarah,
and that will be our excuse for spending a
delightful summer in some quiet place. "
In every way was this worldly-wIse
parents idea a success, for her girls re-
turned for the next winters campaign
thoroughly rested and refreshed and-but
the next thing know l will be telling
you a love story and that would not be-
long TO this page.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28

tailors, never look especially well. Natur
ally the way garments are put on has a
good deal to do with this effect, but man
when giving his orders for q new suit
should Know exactly what he wants and
not allow the tailor to make it as he
pleases. Apropos of this one authority says:
Your clothes must be right. How to get
them right is indeed a hard problem to
solve. When l go to tailor and he
marches me up to ridiculous old chrome
that shows off some men in dowdy clothes
l protest. When be tells me that the old
chrome is an authentic and reliable fash.
ion plate, from the very best authorities,
sir boil.
"Do not let any tailor show you fashion
plate. There is not one that is correct,
up-to-date or proper. Mems fashion plates
usually represent the idea of some poor
cutter and designer, who was brought up
in the tenement district or some other
plebeian quarter. He gets so much a year
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Our Petticoats

Now demand as much attention as our
gloves or shoes, and for street wear none
are so stylish as those of the very best
quality of black taffeta, made with corded
ruffies. Frequently two or three are sewn
on together, thus giving the appearance
around the bottom of three distinct
skirts. The cords are usually set in clus-
ters OF five or three. Through some of
them are run featherbone of the lightest
and most flexible quality. but stiff cord
is preferred b. most women. 1 have
heard of one especially handsome skirt,
which had a triple-foot founce. On the
top one was appliqued heavy pattern of
guipure lace set in quite fatty.
1t is the greatest possible mistake to put
lace on petticoats to be worn on the
street, as it collects dust, germs and mi
crobes, and is not only untidy but dan
gerous as we'll, for it tears easily, and so
has te endency to trip up the wearer.
Truly gorgeous are many of the petit
coats designed for house wear, the most
beautiful and costly of silks and laces be-
ing lavishly consumed in their compost
ton. One such garment for a bride is of
rich heavy white silk covered with
punches of pale pink roses; round the bot
tom is lace-edged friIl of rose pink taf-
ieta covered with one of fine white lace,
which has as heading quilting of the
taffsta. Indeed, no woman having any
preientions to dressing well would think
her wardrobe complete without at least
half dozen of silken shirts, many of
which owe their charms to the fact that
madame is an excellent shopper and un-
derstands how charmingly odds and ends
can be put together at ascomparatively
small outlay.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
The Turban

Is the form of hat now to be worn on all
dressy occasions and it will shortly be
seen here in all colors and shades of
velvet and tulle. One turban just noted
in Paris was of turquoise tulle, trimmed
with black velvet cnou and long white
feather. Another was in cerise velvet
with two black. tips fastened, en- aigrette,
with a brooch of diamonds, and third
was of white tulle, trimmed with black
and white feathers. These turbans are
said TO be easily made, only tight-titting
shape being necessary. The crown is
covered WITH plain velvet and the border
is wide piece of either tulle or velvet
very closely twisted and attached at the
side where feathers and ornaments are
placed. Perhaps, after we have seen one
or two such models we might be able to
make one, but should not like to expert
ment, so l advise you all to watch for
the openings of our leading millincrs,
as thus far, excepting the turbans,
there are no distinct novelties in the
market except in hats. and peep at some
of these which have just enjoyed reveals
to me the popularity of glace silk, of
bright-colored straws, and OF black tulle
hats with crowns EN- mbroidered in dia-
monds or sequins. The artificial flowers
are more lovely than ever, and the best
examples of new millinery shows roses of
the brightest pink with a wealth of foli-
age. these being used as the sole decora-
ton to hats of dark red or ceriss- s-colored
straw. These light straws which we
adopted last year are again to have our
favor; the blue. the pink, the green, and
the mauve all reappearing, but at the mo-
ment, perhaps, ii we want to buy new
hat we should eschew the charms of these,
it is too early for their immediate wear,
and choose rather one of the little too ues
elaborateiy tucked and irilled of black
tuile traced with diamonds. turned up at
one side. with a couple OF black feathers
and flowers. Such style as this might
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Adverse Criticism.
What flowers I had in one fair knot were

What flowers I had in one fair knot were
bound,
And so laid them on public stall,
Wondering would any one take note at all,
Or. taking note, TO praise them would Do
found,
A keen-eyed critic turned the nosegay round,
Then cried, mo true flowers, thesel" and
let it fall:
"Mere weeds that grow against the church's
wall
AND what coarse thread about the stalks Is
wound
'Tis true, fear me, dandelions and grass
Iculled, mistaking them for garden bloom,
And half believing that they might so pass;
And now my critic has pronounced my
doom,
Half undeceived, shall not grudge my lot
II friends may find one true forget-me-not.
1, in the Spectator
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
He Won the Bet.

"Howdy, major! 1 want you to answer
question, just to decide a little bet, you
know. Now, sir, be 80 kind as to pay par
ticular attention and think before YOU
speak. Did it rain this IN morningP'
"Why. of course it didI' said the major
much surprised.
Exactly. Much obliged" said the in
quirer, with relieved expression. "You
see, Judge Barker here BET me $40 that you
couldn't tell the truth on any subject and
under any circumstances whatever, and
l took him up. Come out and have
drink. Texas Siftings.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
safely be allowed to accompany any gown
Our Tables.

Table decoration Is undergoing quite a
change. Some ladies who have become
expert at the Honiton lace work have
combin the effect with rich embroidery
on center linen piece surrounded by the
border of Honiton. A recent luncheon
showed the table all in white save the
effect of soft color produced by violet
sprays on the center linen piece of the
Honiton at the center OF the table. Before
each guests place were tiny doilies of the
same style for the glass butteT-piate and
sait-cellar. These latter, by the way,
were imported from Russia and were
enameled little bowls in the quaint silver
smiths designs of the Russian domains
with small ladies' of :he same in each.
The floral center was ferns with fragrant
violets. The whole was veritabiy dream
of beauty. MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Wanted to Wash Like Father.

Fond Mother-Come and let me wash
your face, Johnny; it is time for school.
Johnny-Shan't.
Fond Mothcr-Oh, you naughty boy.
Johnny commences to cry.
Fond Mother-Now come and tell me
what's the matter, Johnny; there's dear.
Johnny-Bo-ho-ho! Wants to wash like
father.
Fond Mother-Well, so you shall. How
does father wash?
Johnny-Puts on lots of soap and scrapes
1t off wifi knife.
Johnny had seen his father shaving
Spare Moments.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
HaiPdressing.

4nlb all-lm pOrI6nt TOPIC deserves mucn
thought, and at the present moment
flowers, such as lilies of tie valley, roses
and violets, are being extensively used,
in combination with gracefully tied MORE
bows. Very youthful debutantes are
wearing little half-wreaths of small
flowers. their older sisters preferring a
rose with two empire tips richly spangled.
Tiny pompons with osprey aigrettes are
liked, as are also ostrich plumes. At a
certain valentine party a beautiful girl
wore rose falling at the nape of the
neck. the color OF the rose matching the
ostrich tips on either shoulder.
The most fashionable coiffures show the
hair waved and tossed lightly back rather
than drawn back, and arranged in artistic
loops and puffs surmoun led by an aigrette
caught with jeweled ornament. A few
curls fal! over the temples. or there may
be no bangs at all If desired, the waved
pom padour being in vogue.
In many instances the hair is waved
from the nape of the neck; after reaching
a certain height upon the head the tiny
waves merge into series of puffs, the one
toward the front forming the pompadour.
A jeweled star, q bandeau of diamond S
and emeralds or of diamonds and olivines,
or two white wings rising from jeweled
ornament, form q pretty finish to an
evening coiffure. The favorite place just
now for the mass of hair is near that part
of the head which is most distant from
the chin. The place has to be varied
slightly in order to be becoming, the rule
being 10 wear it high, and when hat is
worn it must not show below.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
i Model BolePo

Fastening down one de and showing
a little trill of lace or lisse, revealing just
peep OF light under the bodice, is most
popular. The sleeves of this are made
with epaulettes trim ned with velvet rib
bons or with black silk braid, and the cos
tune is generally completed by plain
cloth skirt, either light or dark in color,
which may or may not be braided. When
made of black velvet such a bodice may
be worn for the next two months for in
formal visiting.
Very comfortable are the new bodices
made OF tucked crepe de chine completed
with linen collar and ribbon stock.
1t Is noticeable that the bolero form of
bodice In cloth or velvet, worn over some
light waistcoat of the lace or lisse order,
still has numerous fashionable devotees.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
handkerchief.

Very eiaborateIy embroidered are the
latest and no longer are floral designs in
vogue-birds and insects being now the
most correct orramentations. On one
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Sun-Pleating.

As 1t is to be most fashionable for all
transparent fabrics. let me explain that it
is wide, fiat. -pleating. Two years
ago it was introduced III New York by a
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Two americans in Paris.

A Paris correspondent writes that quite
lately Mrs. Vanderbilt called on the
(American) Countess de CastelIane, and
on that occasion wore an Ophelia green
MORE. At the left eide of the skirt was
panel trimmed with the new vandyked
buttonholed tabs edged with tinsel thread.
Every point was fastened with jeweled
button. Down the left side of the bodice
and on the sleeves were pleatinGs of lace,
the falls OF lace forming large bows, with
a ieweled button in the center of each.
The Countess received her friend at
tired in an at-home gown of cream-tinted
satin. which had q draped front of pink
satin, over which fell gracefully garni-
ture Of rare old lace. The Watteau back
fell in rich folds of satin, covered with
apple blossoms painted by hand.
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
STYLE for Men.

The question is frequently asked why do
some men seem to impart certain air TO
every garment worn by them, and others,
who patronize better and more expensive
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28
Fur on Spring Organdy

Would not seem so very unreasonable
were 1t applied to wooden or silken fabrics,
but what do you think of a sheer white
organdy being beautiful, not only with a
lace applique, but also with a border of
fine sable, it is SAID TO be simply ravish-
ingly lovely creation and vastly becoming.
However, most of us will content our
selves with the evolution of dainty, fetch
ing frocks for the coming months, adorned
simply with laces and insertions, ribbons
and frills galore, and during the long,
quiet Lenten days much thought can be
expanded in such vanities, but that re-
minds me that I have heard LITTLE tales
concerning events that will take place
during the penitentiaI period, which
makes me wonder whether 1T will be very
strictly Observed however, that is an
other story, and to return to the organdes,
mulls, chiffons, mousselines dc sole and
grenadines, be sure if you cannot have a
silken foundation for each one, to at least
have three perfectly fitted, and then you
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28

receiving more than the handkerchiefs of
'97. which are daintily exquisite in design
and manufacture
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28

naissance sleeves are to be undoubtedly
the model for the coming season, the arm
htted closely, with the tops frilled or
pulled into fullness. That entirely tight
hitting sleeves will be little more general
would not be surprising, for few were
seen last summer, and through the winter
we have met them occasionally. Those
who choose to wear them will be quite on
tie safe side, but the favorite sleeve, the
most becoming one. will be one which
gives the length of arm with long wrists,
clearly defined, end is topped off with q
jockey"
The San Francisco call., 1897-02-28

KaFFAOUSQUETAIRE sleeves are pro-
HN12 claimed 10 be the thing for every
G%S1S up-to-date evening and dinner
dress during the coming season. They
may be evolved from a very transparent
fabric such as beaded tulIe, ChantilIy
lace or mousseline de sole, gouged at the
seams and falling over the hands to the
knuckles.
The latest accordion-pleated skirts ema-
nate from one of the leading dressmakers
in Paris. The new accordion pleating is
alluded to as an Inventory" and it is
declared by fashions votaries that it will
enjoy a great vogue, as it can be applied
TO velvet, satin. or tulle with equal ease
as. the pleats are only formed from the
hips and therefore do not increase the
size of the figure, which was formerly
one of the greatest disadvantages
of accordion pleating. One such model
skirt greatly admired is OF white
taffetas embroidered with bouquets
of jet; the bodice draped and en-
broidered after the same manner. With
it was worn a Marie Antoinette fichu in
mousseline de sole. Make a mental note
of the fact (you may positively depend
upon my prediction) | hat fichus will be
much worn by fashionable women East
all through this summer, for they are
again 20 be the mode. Mile. Sorel few
weeks ago wore one of white mousseline
de sole, edged with two frils, over
bodice of deep blue silk gauze upon a
mauve silk lining. The skirt was of taf-
fetas beautifully en- mbroidered and very
much gouged at the hips. The effect by
the white fichu and the long mousquetaire
sleeves is said to have been most pictur-
esque. The fchus are always worn
slightly open at the throat, being most
becoming when 80 arranged unless the
Wearer is most painfully thin.
Gloves for evening dress are always
either white, cream or a pale shade to
match the dress, and when long are fin
ished at the top with fall-off cuff Of
white lace spangled so as 10 either match
the spangles on the gown or TO repeat
some tone in the colorlng. They are held
in place round the arm with narrow rib
bons-white, mauve or pink, according TO
the dress-and tied with frisky little bows,
which should not have any ends. The
latest gloves have the three seams embroi-
dered with small spangles sewn on so as
to fit over one another like fish scales.
Such spangles may be either red, gold.
silver or of any appropriate color, but lat
urally the mousquetaire sleeve will do
away with long gloves.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21
Exchange of station.

The Secretary of War has practically con-
clrded to order the 9th Regiment of In
fantry, stationed at Fort Thomas, KY, and
the 23d Regiment Of Infantry, stationed at
Fort Clark, Texas. to change stations. 1t
is expected that the orders for the move
ment viii be issued this afternoon. after
the. arrangements for the transportation
and subsistence of the troops have been
completed. The only explanation of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

Consul Barker. at Birmingham, England,
reports that the one marked development
in that district during the year has been
the cycle trade. 1t has been so great that
there has been great overproduction. In
the past two fiscal years the exports from
the, United States to the United Kingdom
of cycles and parts Of cycles was as fol-
lows: For 1896, $613, 392 for 1897, s., 1916 675.
An analysis of the exports from the United
States shows an increase in the trade with
the British colonies. especially in Canada
and Australasia. He says in the matter of
typewriters. the people of the United King
dom are dependent upon the United States
as there are no acceptable machines Of
British make.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21
Homes Are
Putting ON
Winter Attire.

Scarcity and baroness may mean
the comfort of summer, but the con-
venience OF plentifulness means cozi-
ness in winter.
What's needed in the fixing up to
suit your ideas-some odd piece of
furniture here and there-a new
Chamber Suite or Sideboard that
you can pick up at surprisingly
small price from that Nelson-Matter
stock we bought up? Or what?
Don't let that old idea of first-of-
the-season prices being high prices
bar you from anything you want.
None of that here Low prices suit
us because they mean a quick turn
ing over of the stock, and so more
benefit in the end.
TIL FLOOR
Handsomely finished Quarter-sawe.i Oak
Siieboars. Nelson Matter Furniture Cos
patent drawer guide with swell iront and
French bsveled plate mirror elegant pat
tern. that would regularly bring CO
500 for ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. 1919
9TH FLOOR
Solid Mahogany Bed Room Suites, made
ho,2Iny. highly polished Nelson Mat ter pat
tented single and double swell cnristruc-
plate mirror. Regular $50 Suites -
Ter pOO.OO
9TH FLOOR
Graceful Beautiful Finished Divaas up-
holstered in Belgium velvet. spring c. 90
seat y special at Y/.1O
Oak School Desks that have
BEEN slightly used for. ........... 9l-/S
4TH FLOOR.
Secretary Book Cases. two patterns to
choose from, CHARTERED oak. shaped beveicd
plate mirrors Regular $27 val cIR 40
special lot of WALL PAPERS. of which
We have only few rolls in each pattern.
to be closed out at 80 per cent. 40 per cent
and 80 per cent less than regular prices
41fI FLOOR. ANNEX.
Genuine Inlaid TableS ipIaid on rim acd
top. highly polished mahogany fin
ish. French legs Regularly $3.50 CT ~
for ...---.-.-.-.... TA'SC
BID FLOOR
Ncn-destruetible Brussels Carpets, ear
pets that will not fade or sprout- Among
the best wearing carpets known --o
Carpets that will sell for 81. For. ~
Other BRUSSELS Carpets. jast what you
want for bed rooms etc., that VIII Orc
sell for 81 %. Price ........... oOC
cd FLOOR
of Smiths Best ST. Administer Carpets
enables to offer you choice of
these newest and prettiest patterns OIL.
at ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. CN2S.
iST FLOOR.
Lace Curtains for Toe. plir up.
Tapestry Portieres. 81. - pair up.
MuSiin< for sash curtains. 1uc up
Silks for drdperies and pillow covers, soc
up
1t W. b. MOSES 4 SONS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21
A Re.cuer Rewaraca

The President has presented handsome
gold watch and chain to Capt. Bernard
Meyer of the Chilean schooner Maria Luisa
in recognition of his humane services ir
enecting the rescue of the captain aud crer.
OF the American bark Momentum, In July
last.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

It matters little what It is that Won
want-whether a situation or q seryant-a
want" ad. in The Star will reach the
person who can fill your need.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

children's striped eider.iown coats
trimmed with Write angora fur-sizcs @
months &c years-sold for mo
sl5o-to go for. ............... VOC.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

IA chidren's navy kersay REFERS. have
Shoulder cape and neatly trimmed with
brafd-szes TO 10 years only CO 40
TO go for. ............... SZ.AS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

fine all-wool novelty black boucIe
linings-Nerc 81 J0-to 20 for. ny .NpS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

All that is left of our all-wool sweat
ers,turtie necks, and sailor collars. navy.
'arh' eafhet-s"Ine fancy striped and some
ll1in coloIs; sold for 81 d.
choice OF the lot for MLC
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

. fancy silk waists in all colors. with
for ss"seto ''a &c rs s"ii....s'la 90
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

~ pairs of mems linen cuffs-sli.',tI,
soiied; nearly all sizes and shars
sold Tor 2ac. pair: choice OH
for ...-.-..................ShC,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

10 pairs mems scarlet flannel drawers.
sizes b 81 ard SO; sold Tor
dollar: TO 10 for. ...m nc
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

If you want anything. try an ad. in The
Star II anybody has what you wish. you
will get an answer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

One lot lace Notwithstanding Brussels
point, tlIny and Irish point eiiccis-siiyht-
iy imperfect-31a yards lo,ls-Go mP
Inches ~ice-to 90 for. WSC.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

handsome art squares. oriental desf,,
ana coiors. double warp, size o TT Mol.
f Tor Worth ss.'o--ro 20 @M az
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-21

boxes toilet soap. 3 cakes in E.
box, 10 go, per box. ... &c