Omaha daily bee., 1897-06-06

quite otherwise; il starts its career together
with style of dress 10 which II is re-
lated and 1t is likely therefore, to have
long run.
Yelling gowns are made with the skirt
in plaits and the blouse dropping slightly
over the belt all the way round. The plails
most used are OF the radiating sort that
grow wider toward the bottom These are
not properly plaits. but only crimps; they do
not lie fat and do not take the width of
material that plaits do special manner
of making them was described in my last
letter: an easier method giving similar
effect is to make gored skirt wide enough
to allow for plating that has all the
breadths gored on both edges alike, SO that
ths seams, having no straight edges, but
being all exactly the same, have all the same
relation to the top. This method is par
ticularly used for narrow width materials,
including silks. Some striped silks made in
this way the stripes meeting to form VS.
in the seams, have a curious and not very
agreeable effect. Accordion plaits are being
used also In this case the yelling being
wide is plated without seams and the sell
wedge when decorative is left, without hem
or facing, to finish the bottom Some of
the selyedges are of silk and two inches
wide, Of the same or OF a contrasting color.
A blouse in great favor falls straight from
the armholes down, hanging little over
the belt, as a bolero would do. Sometimes
there is a short btsque below the belt If the,
design of the skirt permits 1t, fitted without
wrinkles and decnratiyely slRshed. This is
called a Russian blouse. When braided OF
otherwise decorated all over and fastened
invisibly in the shoulder and under arm
seams II looks like a piece OF old. armor,
and the square jockeys that form an exten-
sion Of the shoulders and are trimmed like
the blouse add to this effect
Black and gray are the colorS most used.
The liking this year for gray is perhaps
explained by the rage last year for ecru.
it is a swing back OF the pendulum. The
gray is very pale, almost white, and so is
best suited for dress-up gowns, while the
black goes for travelling and other utility
wear.
FASHIONABLE MODELS.
In the way of gray yeilings is one with
the blouse made as above described and
trimmed with appliques OF narrow gray satin
ribbon. The ribbon Is put on in parallel
bands running round. and in the middle of
the front and the middle of the back the
hands curve upward with a loop. Where
the ribbon is curved II is drawn up in gath
ems by the cord OF the edge and then sewed
down fiat and pressed. The jockeys and the
slBshes OF the basque are rounded and are
trimmed 10 correspond The sleeves are
corded from top 10 bottom in ridges running
round. at intervals OF an inch apart, and
thus are made 10 form a contrast with the
blouse and jockeys. point 10 which the read
er's attention is called. for IL is character
istic of many gowns this year. The skiIs
is IN plaits. The neckbsnd round the
back WAS q standing collar that flares; the
front is left comfortably low and the fashion
is TO pass a scarf OF tulle, or II might be OF
lace. round the neck inside the collar OF the
back, and TO tie II in big bow under the
chin, Ordinarily this bow is Of white tulle.
but colored tulle is worn also. and a great
effect Is made with q color TO match thS
hat as with a mauve hat mauye bow
under the chin.
A black yelling has the blouse and jock
all in cords running and down
inch apart The sleeves are left plain
The accordion plated skirt has selyedge
OF striped yellow and white. Other black
gowns have the blouse open down the front
over a color red or mauye, with the
5abot reyers down each side faced with the
same color and standing color faced with the
color. For these faeings a novelty is made
OF overlapping rufhes Of narrow ribbon. or
OF narrow ruffles Of doubled rulle that gives
q broken surface OF light and shade more
agreeable than plain silk. In default of
this, cover the facing with coarse black
lace or sppliques Of coarse black embroi-
derry, or else stripe them across with mar
row black braid.
To return q moment 10 alpaca a gown
OF which very possibly every mothers
daughter that reads this has hanging in
her closet; these gowns are best modified
by trimming them with eolored tafeta rib
bon. AS the material Is bald and poor in
effect add thus the beauty Of a con
trasting color. II the alpaca is gray, bind
lht IGits over int sleeve Top Win llhuNSr
trim the skirt with similar rufies, or else
with bands OF the ribbon running around;
open the blouse over mauve tafeta front
and add mauve tafeta belt. II the al
pAca Is eeru, trim il with white ribbon; If
light blue, with white or mauye ribbon; II
navy blue with navy blue velvet ribbon; II
blAck-n black. the soundest advice would
be that II viii make an excellent lining.
Black alpaca certainly harmontzes with
ssmsthins; it would suit 70 Dsrfsctisl The