The times., 1897-06-06
FRENCH FASHIONS.
Styles and Models for Midsummer
wardrobes- Novelties in Paris.

Styles and Models for Midsummer
wardrobes-N Novelties in Paris.
Paris, June 5,-Light wool gowns are be-
ing made of yelling. This material has re-
placed tie alpaca of last year and the
crepon OF the years before. L unites their
advantages and is without their defects.
French OF fabrication, where alpaca is
English, it is better adapted To the French
dressmakcr's hands 1t is hard twisted
and durable and yet at the same time it is
thin and soft; it plaits admirably and it
makes a good ground for appiques, both
qualities demanded now by fashion; it is
not pretentious like crepon, nor bald and
ugly like alpaca, butts absorbent surface
has a look Of modesty and quiet elegance
that permits dress of refinement az small
expense.
40 alpaca it has disappeared with
even more celerity than could have been
foreseen This is not saying that it is
no longer worn, but that it is no longer
q material CT first choice and is scarcely
offered for gowns, reserved mainly for
the seashore wardrobes OF small girls
and boys Related to the bouffant period
nearly passed away, it was evident to
the advised from the beginning that ii
could not hold the market, and those that
took my advice last summer will not have
Ii superiluous gownon their hands this year.
With yelling the caseis quite otherwise IL
starts its career together with a style OF
dress TO which it is related AMI 1t is likely,
therefore, to have a long run.
Yelling gowns are made with the skirt
in pIaits and the blouse dropping slightly
over the belt all the way round. The
plaits most used are of the radiating sort
that grow wider to W ard the bottom. These
are not properly plaits, hut only crimbs:
they do not lie flat and do not ta Ike the
width of material that plaits do special
manner OF making them was described In
my last letter; an easier method, giving n
similar effect, is to make a gored skirt
wide enough To allow for plating, that has
all the breadths gcred on both edges alike,
SO that the seams having no straight edges,
but being all exactly the same, have all the
same relation to the top.
This method is particularly used for mar
row width materials, including silks
Some striped silks made in this way, the
stripes meeting TO form VS. In the seams
have a curious and not very agreeable ef.
feet. Accordion plaits are being used also
In this case the yelling being wide is
plated without seams, and the selvedge
when decorative is left, without hem or
facing, 70 finish the bottom. Some of the
selvedges are of silk and two inches wide,
of the same or Of contrasting color
blouse in great favor falls straight
from the armholes down, hanging d little
over the belt, as bolero would do Some
times there is a short basque below the
belt, il the design OF the skirt permits it,
fitted without wrinkles and decoratively
slashed. This is called Russian blouse
When braided or otherwise decorated all
over and fastened invisibly in the shoul-
der and under arm seams, it looks like
piece OF old arnlor, and the square Jockeys
that form an extension of the shoulders
and are trimmed like the blouse add to this
effect
Black and gray are the colors most used
The liking this year for gray is perhaps ex-
planned by the rage last year for ecru tits
a swing back OF the pendulum. The gray
is very pale, almost white, and 50 is best
suited for dress-up gowns, while the black
goes for travelling and other utility wear
In the way of gray vellings is one with |
the blouse made as above described and
trimmed with appliques Of narrow gray
satin ribbon. The ribbon is put ON in
parallel bands running round, and in the
middle OF the front and the middle of the
hack the bands curve upwards with loop |
Where the ribbon is curved il is drawn,ip in
gathers by the cord of the edge and then
sewed down flat and pressed. The jockeys
and the slashes of the basque are rounded
andare trimmedbo correspond. The sleeves
are corded from top to bottom in ridges
running round, at intervals OF an inch apart |
and are thus are made to form contract |
with the blouse and jockeys, point 10 |
which the readers attention is called, Cor |
it is characteristic of many gowns this |
year. The skirt is in sun plaits
The neckband around the back was |
standing collar that flares. The front is |
left comfortably low, and the fashion is
to pass a scarf of tulle, or it might be
of lace, around the neck inside the col