The times., 1897-07-11
PARIS FASHIONS.
Marie Antoinette Modes In vapor-
Gus Summer Gowns.

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after any historical epoch not their own,
but since this sort Of Christening is the
mode. they are supposed TO he inspired
by the memory OF the royal milkmaid OF
Little Trianon.
The fasirion for soft draperies is CON
firmed. Definite outlines have disap-
pedred in a vague frou-frou OF ruffles
tiat lose themselves III borders Of lace,
needlework. criss-crossed in confounded
lines, and transparencies that shift and
vary like the cloudsin the sky
Taffetas, therefore, have been thrown
into the shade aIG a considerable draft
is being E.ade ON foulard. The greater
number OF the foulards being Worn have
plain grounds covered with great mean.
dels of white. They are trimmed with
ruffles Oh the skirt, that either overlap
round the foot or else zg-Zag separately
higher up, and cluster ofruffles 10 omatcn
runs over the top of each sleeve.
III the ground isnavy blue the ruffles Will
be edged with narrow Valenciennes; If the
ground S black the Tuffies will have the
Falenciennes insertion set up little from
the edge and the edges viii possibly be
bound with black silk ribbon; il the ground
Is red, SO that the white pattern upon it
gives it an effect of pink it will be
trimmed with Iuffles OF plain red. Set
the red ruffles at intervals apart from
the foot to the belt, setthem round the arm
holes and put one at the top of the neck
band. Complete the dress with narrow
belt of white or of almond green leather
set with gilt filagree and false stones; a
white tulle bow under the chin, and hat
OF black trimmed with black, or of red
trimmed with black, or Of all white.
White gauZe parasol. These are exam
pies out OF many. Sometimes the ruffie
that rans iregularly over the skirt is
the border in reality of an overskirt, hut
this overskirt is not looped or perceived,
ana exists only for the sake of the bur-
der, To give 1t that movement that ebb
and now CT lines that is so necessary To
the beauty OF summer dress.
Figured lawns and other cottons are
trimmed with rurfles edged with lace
The rufrles overlap and may reach tue
knee. The top OF the sleeve recalls the
skirt, and tie bloase is gathered onto a
Yoke to make what is sometimes called
baby waist, the yoke trimmed cross
ways with tucks and lace Or the gath
cred waist uay be cut down pointed
over a lace guifnpe The skirt, though
gored, has Some fullness round the ton,
ana is sometimes tucked vertically all
round 20 the depth Of some inches
model In plain pink has the skirt thus
tucked, aid the ruffles instead of being
bias are cut straightways OF the cloth
This skirt, therefore, does not flare but
hangs straight and full, and takes form
only by the petticoats underneath, a
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TIE blouse has loose yoke that extends
out over the sleeves, tucked to match the
skirt
But the novelty OF the season in thin
materials is an unprecedented elabora-
tion with needlework Last year the ecru
linens were spread smoothly over coIoref
SILK and the effect of a TRANSPARENCY
was all that was asked: but this wear the
linen Is tucked and ruffled nd set with
Insertions, and the idea OF a ira anSpareucy
Eds taken second place. A model has the
skirt all in fine vertical tucks. with
uhlrteen luches left at the bottom to fall
as Ilounce, the flounce elaborated with
tuc&s and insertions running round. The
blouse is in vertical tucks like the skirt
and the sleeves have tucks and insertions
running round. like the flounce ! have
seen pale blue lawn with the blouse and
skirt completely latticed over with yalen-
ciennes Insertions
All these gowns have the skirt mad,
loose from the lining skirt, and in geu.
eral have little more fullness at the
G"p. The blouse remains in form what
1t Was when / wrote last, loose and
droopir all round; it is for the most
part closed invisibly, and whatever
trimming it has does not take a dis
unctIye shape. but is rather an enrich
ment of the material Tucks, OF tucks
and lace alternating, running up and
down or across or both at once. en-
broidery or lace, are employed to give
an aH-nver effect. and this absence of
positive forms in the trimming is a re-
markable peculiar;ty of the summer dress.
The sleeves in spite of everything.
even of the invocation of Trianon. have
remained long, and elbow len gtls NAV
try again next year. They are close all
tie way up, and the top is marked only
by ruffles, or a small puff set in the
seam, or ruche. This shoulder orna.
Inent, destined to appear, is now
utilized TO give an accent to the gown
Ihus, for example, q gown of pink gauze
has band of flat ruching Of the same
over the arm holes, and through the midst
OF each band runs a ruche of deep red
a touch OF the same red is round the foot
of the skirt.
The general tendency is to tints of the
primary colors, red, yellow and blue,
and In diSfavOr of the secondary and de.
based colors that have heen in vogue 20
long, ard 1t is probable that this move
ment will .ccentuafa toward fau IT,,
combination of these tints is exquisitely
delicate. Thus a white oreandie is mad,
up over lining just blue enough to give
1T the tone of skinned milk, and To this
contrast of yellow is added in the shane
of incrustaticns Of old guipure. Blue that
has been mixed so long with green and
with red is now chosen in simple baby
blue. Pink has come back into favor. and
good Geal of pale yellow is worn This
use OF the simple colors is one OF the dis.
dnctive marks of the season.
The demand for black, made on the
fIrstdass dreSsmakers by the disaster of
the Charity bazaar, has had for result the
deVelopmentfnth the midst of warm weather
OF all the resources OF blackinto fashionable
forms. There is an enormous distinction
In black and precious economy. If one
cannot do the watering places with n
single black gown and few details. and
make oneself remarked for chic, then the
reason is that ones dresSmaker is bad or
that one stays toe long in a risce.
wardrobe for such an enterprise should in
clude gown of black yelling, a blouse of
scarlet gauZe, short boa of black os-
trich feathers or OF black lace, and hats
ad libitun.