The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-21

simply trailed across the front Of the
skirt. Another design had pale Pink
silk null, and this had sprays of al pie
branches over it, with clusters of the
pink flowers apparently lying loose
upon 1t. Still another was Of PALE
green crepe lisse over silk of 'he same
delicate shade. There were two broken
branches of wild plum wrought upon
the lisse in chenille of the natural
shades of the branches, leaves and
blossoms Of the cherry. The waists
have little or none of the chenille en-
broidery and are finished off in a diff
ferent style.
1 think have seen today 100 dresses
with the entire skirts accordion plait-
ed. Some of them are of thin stuffs
intended for party dresses, but others
are of mOhair sicilien and light silks,
and there were also a few pOplinS.
Most Of them had the plaitings from
the top down to the bottom. Others
had double skirts, and still others
were made with three flOunces, all ac-
Gordon plated. Lace is laid on some
of them, and ribbon is sewed fiat upon
others at the edges and plated in
with them. Accordion plating always
was a pretty fancy.
The mohair brilliantines are shown
now in the same scroll and vermicelli
patterns of old, which grace the new
OF brOcaded design of black upon
black. There are also numbers Of rich
and elegant black brOcadeS of soft
wool, where the body of the stuff is
like farmer satin, with the figures
done over 1t in mOhair, which gives
them a very glossy and brilliant sur
face. The figures represented are
ISl3llV those shown in the sons
output. There is always a number
of people who like brocaded goods and
figured stuffs better than plain, but.
as a general rule, the smooth surfaced
goods are more refined. But this sea-
son nothing seems rich enough unless
it is combined with something else
equally fine, like the MORE velour that
i saw today. This was in several very
brilliant shades, such as bright royal
purple, crimson and the greenest green
I ever saw. There were other pieces
in the softer and more velvety direc-
tOire green, and one could also find
smoky grays and one lovely Quaker
drab, which was really beautiful.
Bengaline appears to be a favOrite
silk though really it should be called
a poplin. as 1t is made Of silk and
heavy linen threads. Still, it has al
ways been called a silk. It takes en-
brOidery and beaded trimming well,
better than any other silk and there
fore has always been a favorite for fine
mantles and such like garments, and
it has been liked for children's cloaks
and hoods and picture hats.
The new foulards have immense
flowers and look more like furniture
coverings than dress goods but they
look much better made up than one
would suppose from seeing them in
the piece. I was rather surprised to
find that the blue and white scroll
and vermicelli designs, so plentiful q
week ago, had disappeared. On in
quiring why, 1 was told that the en-
tire supply had been exhausted, and,
though more is on the way, 1t is very
scarce just now. 1t was SO novel and
looked so clean and cool that it is little
wonder 1t was bought up so soon.
| saw some very original plaid woods today.
The ground was red, yellow, blue or green,
as the case might be, and the plaids were
formed on 1t by lines made of little round
black balls nearly as big as peas These made
the plaid, and it was rich and handsome.
One gown was exhibited made of the red and
black, and the plaid figures were brought on
the bias. Thick this material looks, it Is
light and comfortable. 1t requires very little
trimming velvet belt and collar and a few
black velvet buttons set upon the waist in
Breton style, which, l may add, is in clus-
ters of three or four sewed closely together
and with en- interval between the next clus-
ter. few buttons made an effective trim
ming.
In the same place I saw a few of the new
pattern hats and bonnets for Easter. One
was made of stiffened lustring ribbon in
blush white. This was braided in manner
to look like dish Of vol au vent It was In
the orthodox sailor shape, but had quantity
o. heterodox trimming on it in the shape OF
masses Of roses and other flowers mingled
with point lace. strass buckles and Door little
barn swallows with wings outstretched But
whatever is put on it looks we'll altogether.
There was one very handsome hat. The
crown was in the Tudor shape and en-
broidered with gold threads. The brim was
made Of dark green ribbon braided like tie
other brim Just mentioned. There were three
Fbort curled black tips and two resplendent
Strass buckles, with emerald eenters
One hat for early spring had rolling brim
and high bell crown. Around this was
wide piece of ruby velvet laid in FIVE folds
80 wide that scarcely any of the crown showed
directly in front was immense gold buckle,
set wirh imitation diamonds, On the left side