The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-05-23
Warsaw.

From Moscow to Warsaw Is about $50 miles
through an agricultural country, with Villages
built to lodge the agricultural farm laborers, and
with forests covering moro land than is cult.
vatod. 1t Is n rather commonplace region In
itself, but tho travelling Is quito delightful.
Thorc Is no hurry, the stops are frequent enough.
tho toa Is always good, and tho porvading peace
OF tho landscape is most rcstful. There Is no
limo to mark the difference between the country
on tho two sides of tho frontiers; yet there
is q charm. IN indcscribnble something, a
Rcntle poesy that scoms to dwell over the Polish
farms and chatcaux, and is somehow wanting
on tho Russian sido. This charm continues
as the Journey ends and you are in Warsaw. This
ancient capital of Poland / should call the most
poetic city In Europe. Its situation Is exceedingly
beautiful. There are no very high hills nor any
very deep valleys, but the low land on the north
of the Vistula and the high land on the south of
1t, and in fact, the Investigation cvcrywhere ia
picturesque to tho last degree, and keeps tho
imagination busy at every turn. There arc
plenty Of interesting buildings in Warsaw, both
ancient and modern, and they are fully described
in the guidcbooks. To one that Is just out OF tho
city l made two studious visits, and this was the
old chateau of John Sobicski. built by that IA
nous warrior after his campaigns against the
Turks were done, and he came back to Poland
loaded with spoils and with the gratitude Of
Vienna and OF Austria, which he had saved
from being added to the Turkish dominions.
The Sobicski house now belongs to the Coun-
tess Potocka, il she is still living: II not, I sup
pose 1t has gono to her son. Count Potocki, a
graceful and handsome young fellow of genuine
Polish beauty, who is thirty odd years old, and
is known among his friends as the richest man
In Poland. 1t Is a spacious country house, an
Italian villa in form, its wings on either sido
crowded with objects of art, with old armor,
with pictures. and with historical souvenirs Of
every nature. A portrait Of the original Countess
Potocka. a Circassian lady who came to Poland
by way of Turkey, and whose romantic tale is
the glory Of many novels, is one OF the pictures,
showing that her loneliness was not merely an
effect of features and complexion, but of wit
and intelligence as we'll.
In driving back to the city We passed into
the Lazicnski park, and went through the palace
built by King Stanislas Poniatowski. and bought
by Car Alexander L. eighty years ago. A more
charming house, or one more beautifully dccorat-
ed, cannot be found. The park which surrounds
1t Is very admirable. and tho whole establish
mcnt can crow loud and high over the gen.
eral ruck Of royal chatcaux in the other coun.
tries OF Europe.
spent an afternoon in the Jewish quarter Of
the city and came away full of admiration for
'eS''>So WI ohN q Jus
perity of the respected Scmites. Warsaw con.
tains about 100000 people, and one-third Of
them are Jews. As men Of business, they are
shrewd. energetic, judicious, and successful; as
scholars. they arc learned, profound. accurate.
and indefatigable as men of religion, they ad.
here conscientiously and faithfully to the doc
trine Of their fathers. Tho quarter of the city
which they occupy is certainly not tho most
beautiful. but 1t is reasonably clean and wonder
fully Industrious. There is progress in them.
But it is time to turn our faces toward the
West. A brief railway ride to Berlin and Bre-
men brings us to the steamer. and after a few
days on the steamer we are ut home again. Our
summer journey has lasted n little less than
three months. all without n single mishap. or
even n day OF stormy weather. 1t has shown
us some OF the most interesting things in the
world; hut what part OF this mundane sphere
Is better than Long Island, with the waters OF the
Sound breaking gently upon It's beaches. and the
Stars and Stripes keeping guard over ALI
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