Indian chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1882-1902, 1897-05-06
nEw skIars ARr oLINoINo.
sun Flares and Outlines Have Gone with
Mig sleeves.

sun FLARES and Outlines Have Gone with
Blg sleeves.
All rich, heavy stuffs, such as velvet
or thick brocadcs, have the six under
tlirt quite narrow, usually not more
than three yards wide, while the upper
skirt Is allowed four or five yards In
width and is tackled TO the under one In
several places. No stiffness whatever
Is seen in the skirts of imported gowns,
except when intended for walking pur-
poses, aud then very little, says fash
Ion letter from New York.
The effect Of the clinging skirts is In
sharp contrast to those still worn by
many wcll-dresscd women, having the
old-time flare with great width. The
new mode Is infinitely more graceful,
since Il gives some idea Of the grace OF
the figure, and one does not look like
an animated tin can. as some one ex-
pressed II.
We might have been prepared for
these clinging petticoats when the big
sleeve collapsed, and many to an extent
were, still the actual wearing of them
Is somewhat OF a shock.
IL is not n day Of rejoicing for any
save the most clever modistes, because
these skirts require clever handling, OF
the grace Is gone, and n perfectly fiat,
dowdy back is the result, instead of the
beautiful fare we admire so much.
How do they accomplish it,
Well, there are secrets connected
with it-whisperings Of whalebonc,
haircloth, wire tape, etc, besides "ty-
ing back" strings galore.
A side view must represent the
front and sides perfectly fiat to the
form, with the back starting at the
waist line and standing crisply out
more and more pronouncedly until the
foot Is reached.
The outside skirt is mounted in vari-
Gus ways on the silken lining, but each
must be perfectly suited to the general
design Of the gown.
A French frock Of clel blue drap d'ete,
trimmed with broche silk In oriental
oolors, and bands Of gray moufflon fur,
has the outer skirt set on silken lining
In tiny tucks all around the hips,
forming n point over the stomach and
gradually shortening toward the back,
where they are hidden under a loose
knot OF silk.
Similar tucks run through the blouse
bodice, so the effect is continuous.
The number OF buttons set on the
smartest gowns Is a matter OF surprise
20 everyone, for II had seemed as
though the button craze was over.
Buttons are everywhere In the most
ubiquitous manner, and the only npol-
ogy for their appearance at all is the
tiny buttonhole opposite in the most
impossible places, where its use Is most
uncertain. Still, they form pretty
finish, and under such consideration
there Is nothing to complain of,
The round bodice obtains ON all but
the genuine tailor-made gowns, where
Il gives way to the short-tailed coat OF
bolero. All the lines OF the figure are
shown much mere prominently this
year than has been the cnse for n long
time, as the blouse fronts in the old
dropping style are quite things OF the
past; iudech, have entirely disappeared
and In their place only a very slight
| blouse TO the vest Is permitted.
The high corselet or girdle worn SC
generally gives n graceful outline to the
form and hides any droopiness OF the
vest. Snug-ftting vests are quite gen
eral, often made OF material like the
tailor gown. or Of sntin velvet or lisse
and worn with every conception Of
gown. Tucked vests are extremely pop
ular, and indeed tucks are used in any
way on the gown, even in the heavies
OF materials. / have in mind nn exam
pie Of this tucking on gown of Lincolr
green velvet. which appealed to my
fancy at once.
The rather narrow skirt Is only mod
erately gored, and has a deep band o.
narrow tucks set along the foot, eac,
made over round cord, so as TO caus,
them to stand outright, instead Of lyinl
fiat.-St. Louis Republic.