The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1897-06-27
AN AMERICAN POMPEII.
visit to the Old City of ST. James,
the Gentleman.

the gentleman.
Fannie B. Ward in the Philadelphia
Record.
Antigua, Guatemala.-We have been
making a horse back pilgrimage to Guate-
mala's Oldest city-the' same which Pedro
de Alvarado founded S73 years ago and
named st James, the Gentleman" 1t
lies only three or four miles from Antigua,
close to the foot of Aqua, or rather. up
on the sloping instep of that great, green
volcano on the site of the much older
aboriginal city which the Spaniards de-
stroyed. The road thereto winds under
beautiful trees, past fine coffee estates and
plantations of cactus covered with CO.
clinical insects, past gardens and cottages
and melancholy ruins draped with flow
ering creepers. A well-known Chicagoan,
who recently traversed this region, pro-
nounced it the loveliest on Gods foot
stool" 1t Is, indeed as near perfection
as one is likely to find-a region of sur
passing beauty and fertility, of eternal
summer tempered by cooling breezes from
two nearby oceans; the air laden with
fragrance and ever-bloomng gardens,
fountains of crystal water flowing contin-
ually and apparently pervaded by the very
spirit of repose, making life a tranquil
dream of dolce far niente. 1t seems a
have remained in this well-watered val
ley. instead of being removed to the safer
but less fertile spot ii now occupies, thirty
miles distant from the destructive vol
canoes and more than a thousand feet
nearer the level of the sea. But this Ar
cadia is not quite paradise, for changes of
temperature are liable to occur with
startling rapidity. While the mornings
and evenings are delightful beyond COM
pare, the afternoons are uhbearably hot,
and 1t may be almost freezing by mid
night Foreigners feel these freaks of
temperature greatly at first, and general
~ suffer with colds and rheumatism until
they learn to go prepared for the whole
gamut of changes between frigid and tor
rid within twenty-four hours.
We rode directly through, or, to speak
more correctly over, the fallen city,
whose ruins have remained untouched for
three centuries, to the cafetal of Senior
Don Jose Sandoval, farther I'D on the
slope of Aqua, where breakfast awaited
us. long avenue of palms leads to the
casa, which is so near to the volcanoes
mouth that from its doorway one can see
where a portion of the lip was blown
off in the last eruption; yet, with ruined
city before them a boiling lake beneath
and yawning crater above, the wealthy,
fair-haired Spaniard and his family live
in peace and comfort undisturbed by
stately portico of carved stone, into the
stone-paved patio surrounded by 'pillared
corridors, we dismounted and cordial
chorus of "Buenos dias, senoritas Sc
noras." And then our host clapped his
hands smartly together to summon
muchacho to the care of our horses. Just
so was it done in the days of Don Quixote
and, indeed, it requires no stretch of
imagination to fancy ourselves in the land
of la Mancha Breakfast was eaten in
the pillared corridor, facing the patio with
its setting of palms, the central fountain
splashing softly in its old stone basin.
The long table was laden with a sur
prising array of plates and platters, but
nothing else. and the host and hostess
sat together at one end, issuing orders to
the barefooted servants.
In front of each guest was a pile of
plates reaching almost 10 his chin, for
among the well-to-do in these countries
each article of food forms a separate
course, to be served on a separate plate, il
1t is only a spoonful Of peas. Caldo Cbroth)
came first. served steaming hot in cups
set upon plates, and after those were
whisked away came huge platters of the
medley known as Eel ola" (the pot)-the
very same that has so puzzled many read
ers of Cervantes' quaint story. In Quix-
ote's adventures, I believe, 1t is called the
rotten pot" though why so stigmatized /
am unable to say, for the ola is merely
the collection Of vegetables, seeds. green
fruits and what not, which have already
wasted their sweetness in the soup Kettle
regathered after the caldo has been dipped
off, TO serve as a second course. l have
observed that the natives, seldom cat
much of It, but poke over the heaped-up
platter with their forks, to pick out here
and there favorite seeds or morceaux. Next
came four or five courses of meats, but no
vegetables at all-if sone may except a
salad sandwiched between the fry and the
stew, and tomato sauce, red-hot with pep
pers, which was continually handed
around In small dishes, and in great de-
mand as a garnish to everything. There
was an abundance Of bread of the kind
known as Frances" in crusty loaVes
the size Of a fist; water was conspicuous
by its absence, but Spanish claret flowed
freely, and frejoles (stewed beans) put the
finishing touch 70 the solid portion of the
repast. Dessert consisted Of a sweet, sticky
"dulcie" which we afterwards learned
was pumpkin steWed In cane Juice; and
then came the GROWING glory-an i'm
mense tray OF fruit-a gorgeous display OF
crimson and gold, green, russell and pur-
pie, gathered In the different zones OF
Central America. from the tropical coast
TO the temperate regions of the noun
tains. Lastly came coffee In the form OF
a black fluid called Essence" contained
IN glass bottles. Each person poured
few spoonfuls in his cup. and the servant.
standing at his elbow with a steaming
pot in each hand, inquired whether he
would have "leche caliente' or aqua ca
llehte"--hot milk or hot water, and n the
first named is chosen a delicious bever-
age results.
Senior sendoval himself acted as our
guide over the ruined city. This Is the
very spot where Alvarado fought the bat
ties which made him conqueror and gov
ernor OF Guatemala. II happened in this
way: The Indian kings Of the south hav-
ing heard OF the exploit Of Cortez In Mex
leo sent an embassy 10 him. Offering their
allegiance 10 the Spanish crown. Cortez
received the embassy with distinction and
sent his faVorlto lieutenant. Pedro de Al
varado, back with the Indians TO take
possession Of their country. Il took AL
varado nearly year. with his 300 Span
lsh soldiers and a large body OF natives.
10 Journey through the painless forests
from the City Of Mexico 10 this place,
which ne reached late IN the year 1882
Here he found a populous city named, like
the volcano. Alrnolonga, meaning In the
aboriginal language spring OF pure wa
ter" Il is said that 232,O00 well-armed In
dams came OUT 20 meet the invaders and
offered vigorous resistance, but the SUI