Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-09-23
IN FASHIONS DOMAIN
FALL AND WINTER HATS, WRAPS AND
MADE UP GOWNS.

MADE UP GOWNS.
Some Startling Combinations of Color.
The Bayadere and Roman Stripes.
Capes and Skirts-Flounces Are More
Than Ever Popular-New Dress Goods.
copyright 1897. by the Author.]
Hats, wraps and made up gowns as
we'll as the new materials for the de-
velopment of gowns and garments for
fall and winter are now literally poured
out before us so rapidly that it almost
takes ones breath away. find among
the very latest arrivals numbers of gray
stuffs, silks, thin goods and woolens of
all grades of thickness These gray
stuffs form an admirable background
for the bayadere stripes SO suddenly
offered us. There are woolen goods Of
all varieties, with stripes of almost
every conceivable width and color, to
say nothing of their weave and design
Some of them are in curled, raised mo-
hair effects, others fat and satiny;
some of velvet, and others of the same
material and color as the dress itself,
only that where that is Of armure, cash
mere, cheviot, serge or other such stuff,
the stripe is woven crosswise and has
besides other designs in swivel weave
upon it, The effect of this is refined
and charming to the artistic eye, par
ticularly so in contrast with the bril-
liant dyes seen on SO many other gar
ments. On some of them we find red
and pink, the pink for the gown itself
and the cherry red in form Of access
ories. The gray comes mostly in the
very lightest shades, except where the
new feather boas are concerned. These,
are III light pearls. and then in dark
stone gray There are no intermediate
shades.
The gray silks, satin and soft wooden
stuffs are trimmed with white or black
chantilly edging and insertion. Chan
tilly is the most fashionable of the
laces, and the white is almost as light
and filmy as the old style blond. All
the light silks and all the thin dresses
intended Tor evening are trimmed more
or less with white chantilly fiouncing
Some of the combinations of colors
are almost startling Others, though
brilliant in contrast. are yet we'll oho-
sen. Black and saffron color are put to-
gether with good effect, particularly
where the black is of lace or other trans
parent stuff. Pearl gray and violet,
gray and crimson, gray and rich apri- /
cot yellow, are all among the new color
schemes, and there are many more.
Among the new colors are apricot.
straw, terra Gotta, seashell pink, spin
ach green, fire red, emerald sapphire,
corn, saffron, sky blue, parma violet,
mauve, lilac and no end to the browns
from the lightest tan to seal. Another
rich color is called "salmon roe. This
when in cash mere is very beautiful.
Where the material Of the gown has no
stripes woven in for trimming, velvet
ribbon in graduated widths is employed.
So is satin ribbon, and it is placed in
clusters from top to bottom.
Certainly not every gown shows the
bayadere stripes, but many do. Some of
the handsomest peau de sole has borders
along i'll Persian or cameo design, and
these borders are to be cut off and sew
ed around as bayadere stripes.
Roman stripes in all their rich colors
are produced in the taffetas and light
silks for home wear Tuscany stripes
are also shown They are rich and bril-
liant without being vulgar This is ow
ing partly to the introduction of fine
white lines between the green, blue,
red and yellow stripes in the designs
The plaid silks are unusually refined !
and elegant, owing also to the admix-
ture of white, which tones them down.
Another thing very noticeable is that |
nearly all the clan plaids are produced |
in miniature. These plaid silks, it is ex-
pected, will be used for the blouses now
so very popular There are besides the
plaids no eno of plain and changeable
taffetas of high luster to be employed /
for the separate waists This makes the
bright figured black woolens almost nee
essary mean the silk warp woods with [
mohair figures. think they call them
signs as those in vogue during the last
year are still in style. as no improve
nent was possible
So far the cape with tabs or long rib |
bon streamers bids fair to be popular,
but the cape is not SO full as formerly,
nor does it hang SO stiffiy. A new
mantle with short, fitted back and
vest front has sleeves in form of two
half capes. fastened on the shoulders
The collar is high. and the trimming
consists Of rich black passementerie and
sometimes feather trimming. Feathers,
by the way, are having quite furore
just now. Not only are hats covered
with plumes, but many of them are
three-quarters of yard long Some I
hats have full boas for sole trimming
laid around the crown. Gray, natural
and black ostrich boas are to be worn
by every one who can afford them. The
ends are tucked into the belt. There /
are also small shoulder capes S0mplete
ly covered with uncnrled ostrich fiues
noticed two of them with the collars
of curled hues
The new woolen goods show several
new effects never before attempted
that is, that covert cloths and craya- /
nettes are produced in every fashion
able color and in all grades of weight
They are also reversible, having one
side of the regular goods and the other
in some rich tartan plaid. These make
fine golfng and bicycling suits and are
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