The sun., 1897-12-05
OUTDOOR GARMENTS.
FASHIONABLE BLOUSES AND LONG
COAT WRAPS.


Carriage Costumes-Furs With Heads and
" Several Tails-A Variety Of Hats The
~ Separate Bodice Still In vogue-some
a New Tea Gowns.
tCopyright, 1897, by American Press Asso-
ciatiOn.l
It seems as though the garments for
Outdoor wear this winter are richer
than any ever before designed. The most
Widespread fancy is for the winter
\ blouses, and these are made of tho most
Il unexpected materials. Thick melton,
1kersey, cloth, velvet and even fur are all
&nsed in these garments that nothing can
over make beautiful from the utter lack
BDf form. The baggier and more shape
less they are the better. The general
plan seems to be to make the waist look
long and thin. The fashionable blouse
Succeeds in its mission.
A The long coat wraps are everything
tthey could be in grace of outline, de-
ssign and the richness Of material. 1t is
mot uncommon to find a regular redin-
Egote made Of fur from top to bottom.
&Moire astrakhan in deep lustrous black
Ills often employed to make the whole
garment. This is then supplemented
with deep cape collar of stone marten
and sometimes even with sable. The
cape collar is usually made detachable,
and there is always mutf to match.
Muffs are large and in some cases Curl
ously shaped and trimmed. Tails and
futed rutlles at the ends of the muff
made of doubled fur are put on the
most of them. The entire garment is
lined with rich satin. The astrakhan
skins in the warehouses cost $40 to $l2
apiece, and not one is over a yard square,
and of that not all is fine enough to use
in really first class redingote So it
must require at least ten first quality
SKINS. to say nothing of lining Or labor,
and the difference between the import
ers' wholesale price and that of the re-
tail manufacturer, and all that makes
the garment cost small fortune. But
it does give the wearcr such satisfaction!
Some carriage costumes have the back
of the coat and skirt portion Of heavy
brocade, moire or velours, or even vel
vet, and the sleeves and all the front Of
moire astrakhan
The furs are now out in force, and
the variety of fancies is greater than
ever, only one general idea being nota-
BILE, and that is the incredible number
of tails put upon each garment. A col
larette will have one little head with
grinning teeth and scintillating eyes
and six to ten tails I think that skunk
fur or Alaska sable is the best liked for
borderings to all sorts of handsome
wraps where the colors are dark. There
are a depth, softness and gloss about the
fur of this despised animal that make
it the most suitable of all furs for bor-
derings, while collarettes of it are
more becoming than any other fur, not
even real sable being SO soft to the face
Contrary to all expectation, the great
shirrod picture hats and poke shaped
velvet and satin bonnets have not
taken. There were not two to be seen
at tho famous horse show, which takes
the place Of the "N crnissage' in Paris,
as tho authoritative decree of what is
and is to be. Instead Of them there were
velvet, satin, cloth and felt toques OF
every color, and no two exactly alike in
shape. The hats of felt and beaver were
in most fantastic fancies. The crowns
are impossible to describe clearly. There
are sugar loaf shapes, pagodas, berets,
beefeater, plain bell crowns aud Others
where there isa decided narrowing inand
sudden widening out of the crown. 1t is
intended to pass IL cord or narrow roll OF
silk or satin around the crown and to
mass the trimming on one side One
has a high chimney pot crown with
widish brim turned pquite high at the
left. Some have brims straight, some
upturncd on one side or the other or
right in front or in the back. There is
one regular pilgrim father shape III
black; also darl, bluo, red, gray, brown
and green beaver. This style has smooth
satin ribbon bands and big buckles, with
stiff quill on two. AS to ostrich
plumes they arc going out and fast,