Evening star., 1897-06-05

which adorns silk gowns. often forming
also the tablier or zouave Jacket In black
striking when the black ribbon Is appliqued
on white lace and the latter in it's turn is
lined with black silk.
Accordion and knife pleatings are SO uni
versally becoming that the end of their
reign is not to be predicted in the near fu-
ture. Gauzes, nets and mousseline de sole
lend themselves admirably to this style. A
model foT a black visiting or afternoon toi
let is sure to appeal to our transatlantic
sisters, as 1t combines all the features
which mark the styles of the present sea-
son. The foundation underskirt is of black
satin. narrow and close-fitting in form, and
| Is entirely covered by finely accordion
pleated black mousseline de sole, and black
satin tabs covered with black jetted net
graduating in length, the largest being in
front, the shortest at the back and form
gauze to be seen between the tabs. The
black satin lining of the blouse is also
tight-fitting and is covered by full accor-
dion pleated mousseline de sole. The tab
trimming Is continued at the front and
back of the waist. The tight-fitting black
satin sleeve is also covered with black
mousseline de sole, the upper arm being
entirely concealed by two large eblack
fiounces of black. covered with jetted net
and edged with the jet trimming The sau-
Ger collar and cuffs are of red velvet, edged
with Jet, and belt of red velvet confines
the fullness of the mousseline at the waist,
and closes at the back with q butterfly
bow of red velvet and large, finely pol
tshed jet buckle
TailOr-Made Gowns.
Tailor-made gowns have lost their char
acteristic simplicity. An elegant model is
composed of sand-colored poplin. textile
which, on account of its soft draping quail
ties, combined with dull luster, has be-
come a great favorite. The short jacket,
as well as the hem of the plain narrow
skirt, is trimmed tastefully with rows of
milliners folds. The vest Is Of heavy green
and f1owered Roccoco silk, double breasted
and closing with eight buttons Of gold fill
gree. The decollete of the vest Is filled out
by dickey Of tucked white surah. with
pleated lace-edged jabot, and the stiff linen
collar is encircled by a narrow black satin
mans cravat.
The tailor's imagination is given wide
scope in the manufacture of outdoor gar
ments In which scantiness of form, narrow
sleeves and plain baSQueS are covered with
gaudy trimmings.
A military jacket of blue cloth is evil
IDENTIFY an imitation of the Spanish Por-
tuguese uniforms, with it's dark cerise silk
reveres, round gold buttons and gold hus-
sar brandenbourgs. Another jacket of dark
red cloth seems to have been modelled after
the historical Trilby' coat, but for the per-
fection of fit, and the cloth being cut "a
jour-" to disclose a bronze leather under
lining.
Cape-like wraps for matrons show long
sash ends. and are often made up of silk
of TWO different but harmonizing shades,
like crushed strawberry and Nile green,
the contrast being dampened by covering
of black pleated mousseline de sole. gauze
or black lace embroidered with steel or Jet
beads. For jaunty. youthful toilets. the
unfailing short zouave or Eton jacket, in
bright colors, with darker braiding, is pre-
ferred. However, the styles for outdoor
wraps are too varied and numerous to be
fully described. We seem to live in a fash
ion period in which anything can be worn
with exception. perhaps. of the super
voluminous sleeve.
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