The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1897-08-05
WASHINGTON c. THURSDAY

boat we would have been able to keep on,
but our rough and hastily constructed little
skiff was utterly untitled to withstand any
heavy sea. One night while we were thus
weather bound. the gale rose almost to
tornado, our tent was blown down, and
many trees around were uprooted.
TAGIsH LAKE AND WINDY ARM.
On the morning of June % the wind
ceased, and we started at 2 n. m. 1t was
perfect calm and we rowed steadily along
until 8 a. m, when we reached the end OF
Lake Bennett This is known as Cariboo
Crossing, and is broad, shallow stream, two
miles long. 1t forms the connecting link
with Tagsh Lake, and derives It's name
from a very distinct trail which has been
made by bands OF cariboo.
We took hasty break fast here, and then
| resumed our oars, for after our exper lence on
Lake Bennett we were anxious to avail our
selves of this calm weather to get safely
past a certain branch of Tagish Lake known
as Windy Arm, and which is considered to
he the most difficult and dangerous spot in
the lake portion of the country. Tagish
Lake is very irregular in shape, and the
portion we had to traverse Is 10 miles In
length. We had been working at the oars
to be severe strain to row ily-loaded
boat such distance, particularly as we were
not yet accustomed to rowing Soon our
hands were covered with blisters, but still
we pulled on steadily, thankful for a calm
day to pass the mucll-dreaded Windy Arm,
which has been the scene of so many dis
asters.
This famous indentation of Tagish Lake
is long, narrow inlet, curying between lofty
cliffs of limestone and marble. The sides Of
these cliffs are followed out so that the
inlet resembles gigantic trumpet through
which the wind pours down in fury. There
are three tiny-islands situated in a line just
at the mouth of Windy Arm, and few miles
beyond the last one another large opening
comes in view. On some maps this Is erro-
neously marked Big Windy Arm" but in
reality it is the main body of the lake, and
occupies large valley which stretches as
far as the eye can reach. The Tagish Indians
assert that they have gone up three days
journey in their canoes before reaching The
head of this portion of the lake, which must
be distance of 40 miles. They also say
that other lakes lie beyond, and that the
connections have no strong currents. This
will show how difficult it is to realize the
full extent of navigable waters in this remote
and almost unknown group. Taglsh Lake
ends in broad, shallow stream, six miles
long, which connects with Lake Marsh. Just
as we entered it favorable breeze sprang
up which carried us along to the outlet.
where we camped, after having rOwed stead.
lily for 10 hours.
Our camping-place was not far from few
rndely constructed hnts known as the
Tagish houses" These are the only
human habitations in this whole country of
the lakes, and they are occupied only by q
few families. The Indian population here
amounts to almost nothing. Mr.. William
O-ilvie, the Canadian Surveyor, who is prob
ably the best-informed man in respect to
the Northwest Territory of Canada, esti-
mates the total number of Indians in this
portion of the British Dominion at 300.
Our tent was infested by the most ferocous
musketos, and the misery we endured cannot
be described. Shortly after our stop the boa s
of the Geological Survey and of the party
of miners arrived, and while we fought the
musketos We exchanged notes OF our ex-
perences from the time we had been scat
tered by the storm on Lake Bennett.
LAKE MARSH.
The next morning, June 26, we started
down Lake Marsh. The day was calm, and
we had to row. Swarms of musketos ac-
companied US, and their bites diverted our
attention from our blistered, bleeding hands
Lake Marsh is 10 miles long, and for the
most part is very shallow. We rowed all
day, and about p. IL. we reached the out
let. Here the current was SO swift that we
were able to ship our oars, and were free to
devote our whole attention to fighting mus
ketOs while drifting down the stream.
About 10 p. M, as all the boats happened to
come together, we camped for the night and
while sitting around the fire after supper
the main subject of conversation was the
passage of the Grand Canyon, which is the
next formidable obstacle OF our journey.
THE GRAND CANYON.
The next morning we continued down
the river, which was about 900 yards wide.
All along we noticed many high-cut banks.
These seem to be favorte breeding place
for martins. The deep holes excavated by
these birds weaken the banks so that tons
of sand drop into the river. This stretch
of the Lewes is the limit of the salmon's
travels. After their journey from the sea,
the effort TO pass the mighty waters of the
canyon about exhaust their remaining
strength, and few ever enter the expanse of
Lake Marsh.
About noon we began to look out for the
canyon, as we knew that we were getting near
it. There is nothing whatever in the fOrma-
ton Of the river banks or the country around
to indicate the proximity of this great gorge,
the only warning being an increase in the
current. The entrance to the canyon cannot
be seen at any distance, as it is situated Just
around a sudden bend to the right Each
boat carefully Rugged the shore and kept
sharp lookout at every right-hand bend.
About half-past one D. m. we came to one Of
these bends on which some one had erected
notice with the word Danger" This
was the stopping-place, and after hard
struggle with the rapid current we got
our boat ashore. The boat containing the
biologists had already landed, but that
in which the four miners we're happened to
be much farther ahead, and they had not
noticed the friendly warning. They kept
right along around the bend, when they sud-
denly found themselves in a most perious
situation directly in front of the terrible
chasm, through which the foaming waters
were dashing at fearful rate. With the
greatest presence of mind their leader
steered the boat directly across the current
to the opposite shore, where they succeeded
in effeciing a landing, after what might
truly be called hair's-breadth escape from
a most horrible death.
AS soon as we had landed and made sure
that our boat was securely fastened, we set