The Bryan daily eagle. (Bryan, Tex.) 1895-1898, 1897-06-08

f,sW3htskgA against cold and,
S-y.XslTI ai,erward, to orna-
-ZtlASyN ment H. It's useful
ness 81 desirable,
ita convenience a matter OF importance,
iis ideal that u may be a safeguard
without Imposing any EuporAuous dis
comforts. Il should. therefore. COM
press no one part OF the body. How
much less then, should q deform Il!
TT, therefore. af.or having consid-
cred clothing 40 a necessity. we lool,
upon IL aB an ornament. 70 o. evident
thnt 70 can only boagtlgy the body on
condition that Il respects lts contours
and does not break the harmonious
unity Of the whole. The materials cm-
ployed for clothing are principally
women fabrics. which are in them
selves graceful This must Dee respect
cd also and In consequence these tls-
sues must not be wrapped around the
body. These principles are carried ont
perfectly In ancient costume. as can
be seen by a study OF the figures IN
Grecian and Roman vases
The costume was the same IN So
principle Tor both men and women. II
did not dIssimulate Tho difference ~
the sexes. but e did not attcmpt 10 nc
centuate a. The tunlc was a shorter
'stola The mems garment was drap,d
as profusoly as the womcns and was
Tor both sexes floating and ornamental
TO turn now 10 the toilet Of our
contemporaries
We see az once that Il is a. variance
with any known principle. Two things
stand out prominently First. the gar
ment Is always moro or loss elaborate
ly adjusted: second. q differs very ma
tcrlally according o. the sex.
Doubtless the adjusted garment
might In The FIRST lnstauc, be- explain
cd by the climate. against which IL ls
was necessary to take precautions
bu' u IS certainly clear 90 the most
casual observer that This utility is NJ
present only an accessory lr the miulr
Of our tail0ry and lrcs makers.
None Of tho rules Is observed today
10 feminine attire. Tho correct Us mo-
longer worn as a protector. Il COM
presses and dcforms Tho materials
are stretched over n rlgld framework.
which notably mobiles the form of
The breast and Tor the last ten years
the skirts have been either too ample
pr too narrow, spreading ont over ar-
llacial and proportionlcss contours
NJ displaying as much OF possible of
NE real figure hy their fclutucss two
Perfectly opposite fashions destined 90
convey the nmo imprcf l0u."
what impression"
"Thc uoinrn ashlrrw-ror has
aiken pains to ry1-rHr.fa af' fho par,
which rl'ure has waIr most prom
1ort in tfa body AN .br UJ'e srU-
ices ~ detail have beer brought Iut1
''av io complete This frr' 1Tur.e.
"Tho curves of thr body hfyo boon
1-0urht lu'0 tr'lHr relief bv tho grr-
af. and. following iho fashion uf thr
limos. hy mn.c-s and uusUas. tha
. norm1us sleeves have o. tendency t1
.lccrntu1'o che waist ami tho h.eh
Louis Nv. heels throw the bust NOR,
prominently forward and Impose on
he movements OF the body a restraint
which reveals lts formation. moro
clearly. In a general way the fcmi-
nine figure is considerably ampllacl-
and cut In the middle.
"You can see for yourself the effects
u this division. The unity % form
being broken. ono glance no longer
embraces q easily, our eyes are scpar-
ltely attracted by the two parts which
compose 70. and IN each part hy its
protubcrancos In fact. the waist as
understood by our contemporaries Is
no longer largc and supple. as % was
In women % aroIeu' times. but % Q.
a reformation 90 the body and ln che
lIsarranremeut 81 the th0Dglc Gag.
divides the women in tWo-t0 local
ize our attention.
"ln fcw vorss. tho feminine drcs.
has become essentially expressive of
sex
THE actual dress 90 women today &.
the irrccoucllahle enemy 10 their nat.
IRA! dutlcs These are the sad but tru,
facts Of the case"
The publication % this interview
naturally made some sensation IL
Paris. and some Of the famous dress
makers we're interviewed upon N,
subject The greatest Of them said:
There Is a great deal Of truth II
what these critics say. but We are no
responsible for the fashions any NOR
than are the fashionable women VII,
enjoy the credit Of creating them"
"nut who, then. does set the fash
lonsg" asked the interviewer
NO one. Neither myself nor M
contrcrcs. Fashion Is a chain Of yarI
atlons which drags along In an unrca
soning logic and a fatal caprice whic
ordalns that We should unccasingl
hunt Tor a change 90 any kind from ih
fashion which was in vogue yesterday
Lace o. worn today because % was uo
worn yesterday. Il viii be- worn los
tomorrow because % is worn go niue
today. The sleeve g. large today o.
change. tomorrow &c viii bo smaller %
the same reason and will dgally as
. appear altogether.
and an this happens impCrccptIhll
without much thought IN advance. Do
cause We follow. or. rather toroac
the taste OF our customers"