The sun., 1897-01-31


fore tho eye, AMI with the effort to breathe at
this tremendous alt!tud. and the fear Of . mis-
step. creates = condition Of mental sIaitation
which must be experienced 70 be appreciated.
A tiresome jorrney by rail from tho City OF
Mexico over the mopotonous though fertile
pln,n OF the valley brings one 10 the town OF
Ameca. .meca about thirty mies from the City
Of Mexico. and at the base Of the range Of foot
hills from which tho volcano rises.
Al Amecn.m mecA We procured horses, provi-
sions, and servants and after . night
spent at tho Hotel Americana, which 10
purely Mexican. Notwithstanding its pame.
made Q start for the Rancho TlamAcas,
tvouty.four miles away. Tho ranch con-
sists Of three small wooden buildings, which
are used as o shelter for men and horses
gagged in gathering sulphur from tho noun
tain. and Il presents to the weary traveller no
h.,,s, .oconnoa.t,on than four .l.b wall. A
'o.so' sooo''oN"t'H '."A 80
well-ventilatod roof. ana moor OF volcanic
ash. Camp was IN ade there and q nro lighted,
ior Hw" eo'a ~ 'n's A'I'uuo VI i''ooo i'e"
The Rancho T!amaca, Ia situated on q 100.
AFRO b.s of vo,c.nic ash. broken law. and
score. between two deep barancas. as the earth
d,,ure. ara called The ono on the south IN tho
Baranca Grande de, Frall.. which separate. til.
the north divides tho Tlamacas Mountain into
Two unequa' paris
A night on tho moor. with blanket Tor COW
srs sAaaio ior pn'o~. sna ss'p'ns M eno.u' .s'
irom 'ho eoIo'os s'ounu 'ne rsuen "Hs no' 'no
oest prepara.ion ,or the "ork OF inc Gay 70 come,
welcome. After We had had e0ilse and light
On for ,ho ,rd,,, a.v,, vork of our live,
-. r,....n, "a. =, iii. ,hror., 81.
pine. brought us to the edge Of the Grand Bar
anoa, which is st this point about 1000 feet
wide BY 400 deep. The trail led us diagonally
sSr.e mS. and a Ja place. so ...p u that our
leggihgs were scrn'ened ana torn oy the rough
lava on one side. while from the other side q
steep slant ,s reached "s,..S'S away 10 the % bot
tom' hNer inc Iunuus was reAeheu.
prayer D sss that oar lars. Sad found s
crossed a plata OF due ash aud cindar two miles
deep, and went up n gentle ascent until we
reached the Cross or La Cruz almost Al the line
Of perpetual snow. The monument OF lava was
erected by Padre Alzate In 1920 to commemo-
rate his ascent to that point; beyond that point.
epess lava and upos his reeuTn aenonnssd
to Cortez that It mark ed the limit TO which man
could 60, The altitude at this point is $4,000
feet. or about the altitude Of tho summit OF
Mount Blanc. Think Of reaching the level Of
Mount Blanc on horseback
At tho cross horses were left to be re-
turned TO the ranch. and preparations for the
real work OF tho day were made. These con.
sisted OF removing boots aud swathing tho feet
and legs with wocllen cloths, over which the
native sandal was strapped. The face was COW
cred with two thickhesses Of black sllk. perfor-
ated for the blue glasses worn over the eyes.
walk OF quarter OF = mile brought us to the
edge Of the snow. and the real work OF the as
From the Cross to the crater. who can de-
scribe tho Journey II was toiltnS through end
less snow, now up to tho knees, again up to the
waist, facing frequent vusts Of wind laden with
rleet and snow and proceed Ing from dense mist
into the blazing light Of tropical sun. Its rays
intensified thousand fold by the reflection of
tho dazziing snow. One takes ouly ten or
twelve eteps between pauses for rest, and Is
blinded, Notwithstanding tho deep blue OF tho
eyeglasses. The naked eye could no more look
sunlight than on the sun at midday
We left tho Cross at 4 A. NJ. and reached tho
lower lip at 3 p. NJ, and all OF this time we
most aimIessiy. for , every storm oSIiterstss the
trail OF n previous trip My heart was beating
l20 to the minute at this altitude. Forty-four
breath; blood appeared at my nustrils as went
on. and an overpowering sense OF nausea
gnawed at my stomach. As we nea.ed the crest
l wept, not as q man weeps. bet as n woman
weeps, aloud and hystericAlly. IL was q won't
for Dent. up emotions which gave relief. Then,
| when despair had come and tho inter impossi-
biiIty Of further effort seemed final. q cry from
tho guide recalled my wandering senses, and
his sAs. assisted ne up the last six feet. The
ascent to the lower lip lad been accom- plished,
One glance over the crest into tho Abyss below
thrills the heart with new life and with q rush
OF Joy every sense acquires new energy
Nothing remained to be done save to follow
tho narrow crest OF tho crater around to the
summit,e matter Of only a mile ana twelve
less, but the risk was Increased thousa nd fold: