New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-25
ACROSS RUSSIA.
cprrvANcEs OF TRAvELLERs-THE FOR
rsr SCENERY AND ITS INFLU-
ENCE GLIMPsEs OF RUS
SIAN TOWNS-POLAND AND
DREAMS OF EMPIRE.

DREAMS OF EMPIRE.
Warsaw, August 70.
v,batever else may be lacking in Russia, the
traveller enjoys ample leisure for deliberate re-
soction The distances 10 be traversed are ioi7'
and the trains .rundlc along at Low speed Wl'"-
MI. tolting or noise and with little discoi'',0'
,roent from the clouds OF dust with WHO" ''>'
ar. cnveloped in the dry season. Inc i'''"O
orous scenery with clearings for whea' "'''
among gloomy forests of fir ana pic4''
neither surprises for the eyes nor di''fA. ''V'
The mind one dusty village, win us GU.
49, ,u,s and frame cabins is Ike another III
-.ro,ness and desolation and there - llt'ie th1'
q. either novel or characteristic OF 'iie 'o"''' "
,ho .cenos at the railway stations. the uaNeheF
TOYS along in peace and quiet Win 'i'i'c "s "
and TO spare for anticipating the sisn'S Vi MS
destination with adventurous aid from MS suiu'-
book or still better. for broodng over WHAT iio
has already seen in Russian cities VIC" '"e,'
anomalies. Of architecture their hdeiuos0opi0
.nects of color and their starting contrasts "a
sn,endid ritual and degrading supeTSt''ioh' iuN-
.'m,oro weaIth and abject beggary. absolute
nower and human helplessness. lie also mas time
- catalogue his grievances and possibly to mag
nifty them.
Crateful IS the retirement OF the noiseless rail-
train after the ceaseless uproar OF Moscow ana
,s doafening droskies. The long drive over the
oohh,es,ones 70 the Smolensk station has ended;
.hs last bargain with the contentious drosky
driver has been made and the guide, with oDse-
,u,ous snlirk has pocketed his gains and wished
tho ,rnpoverished traveller pleasant journey.
A sense OF relief from the nerve-rending clangor
of the nosiest streets in Europe and from the
evactions OF drivers and guides will certainly
rrhten the tedlum Of the long Journey to the
tron,,er Tho English or American tourist mas
the bun,iliating consciousness Of being pundered
wherever he goes in Russia With street names
and shop signs In script which he cannot read
he cannot find his way about the cities. even
with the help Of map and there are few places
10 which he can go unaccompanied by guide
capable Of translating the explanations OF the
attendants. He Is at the mercy OF those whose
honesty he suspects yet with whose services ne
cannot dispense and although he resigns him.
self to his fate in submissive spirit, he enjoys
a sense Of exhilaration when he finds himself at
last In a railway carriage where he cannot be
cheated.
There is a current belief that travel In Russia
IS cheap. The railway fares may be low II the
mileage be averaged. but since the distances are
great the aggregate expense Is high from one
frontier to another. The hotel rates are eXtor-
tonete for rooms which are seldom clean and Tor
meals and service which are equally bad. The
ordinary charge Of a guide with a smattering OF
English Is five rubes day, and this is doubled
whenever there Is an unusual influx Of tourists
There IS no settled schedule for droskes The
drivers demand whatever they choose. and have
10 be beaten down stage by stage. and While the
services Of the gesticulating guide are lndispen-
sable to these negotiations. there Is no check
upon his own duplicity. for he may be in league
with the man whom he makes pretence OF OUT
mannuvring. The most treacherous guide whom
/ have ever employed was Frenchman IN St
Petersburg. He had charming manners. and
never failed to invoke a good appetite Tor my
luncheon. but he doubled every drosky fare for
hts own benefit, and ran UP the most mysterious
scores for incidental expenses. To the plumber
of guides and drivers must he added an unceas-
ing outlay for tips and perquisites to attendants
in palaces churches and monasteries The tour
lat paws heavily for his pleasure IN Russian cit
iss.~ In going from Scandinavia to Russia his
travelling expenses will be doubled certainly and
possibly trebled.
PASSPORT REGULATIONS.
To the annoyance caused by all these raiding
operations openly conducted for the purpose OF
0!unOerlnG VlSltOrS Is dQUtu tHc eAdspcidt ioh va
the passport regulations. Before entering the
country the traveller has to take the precaution
of visiting a Russian consulate and obtaining
visa. after furnishing satisfactory evidence that
he IS neither a priest Of the Roman communion
nor an alien Jew. When he arrives at ST. Peters
burg his passport is critically examined and
countersigned after long delay at railway sta
ton or landing quay. At the hotel It is at once
Tow b,, ofpot al md IN ha n
two or three days It is returned with several in
dorsements and stamps. and the traveller Is duly
authorized to remain in the country for six
months. Wherever he goes for nights lodging
his passport must be produced and registered.
and before he cross the frontier II must be
submitted anew to the police and an additional
visa obtained to the effect that he Is not an alb
scondng debtor party In q criminal or
civil action. and that there Is no impeachment to
his departure. Warned by advice from Russian
friend In London, I attempted TO simplify the
procedure by applying for a permit to cross the
frontier as soon as l reached St. Petersburg.
but when the passport was returned 1t did not
contain the second visa. At Moscow promptly
applied for the permit. but there was a deliberate
attempt on the part Of the hotel manager to de-
lay my departure. In the end 1 received my pass
port from his hands without the permit. and was
compelled 10 make FOUR visits 10 police headquar-
tiers before was at liberty to start for the from
tier with the assurance that would not be de-
tanned there. In these circumstances the most
self-respecting traveller begins TO suspect that
he may be bold. bad man.
The passport regulations are adjusted to the
general system Of police registration enforced in
Russian cities. No resident can change his lodg-
Ing or move from one town or suburb TO another
vxtth1, 10 he a,I
he travels for business or pleasure his tempo
rary dornice is registered. The police with their
lists know where everybody sleeps. and maintain
a rigid surveillance over the movements Of
strangers. Travellers are naturally exasperated