The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-28

satin. The neck was finished with a
high stock, with a plating Of the dress
goods edged with lace at the top and
a bow in the back. A dainty little
figaro Of the dress silk was embroid-
cred in chestnut brown silk. The
sleeves had n high puff and three
narrow plaitings and reached scarcely
to the elbows.
Among the prettiest Of the ideas for
this season, I notice, for afternoons at
home and also abroad, are skirts of
velvet and velutina, with waists made
OF white chiffon, with no end of puffs
ruff1es and plaits. With these in
variably go small, sleeveless fgaros of
velvet, like that in the skirt, trimmed
with jeweled bands and sometimes lit
tie silken acorns or balls, or in some
cases gold ones around the edge. The
bolero is made in many shapes, but is
generally carried up the neck in a col
lar, and often has sleeves. 1t may be
square pointed or rounded off in front,
but it should meet at the throat.
The zOuave jacket is too well known
to require description. The short Elton
is also to be a feature Of the new
gowns, but Of all these short jackets
none is liked as well as the figaro and
none is susceptible of so many tri1ing
ar1atlon which adapt it to every
material and occasion. Some of the
LAY are a Of red serge or cloth
and gayly trimmed with yellow OF
black braid. One handsome gown of
velours in a deep and grassy green
had a small figaro of fine black astrak-
ham,, and it was very handsome.
Shirt waists deserve a special para
graph. What they have been for the
last two seasons is nothing to what
they will be this coming one The same
general styles will prevail, only that
the sleeves will not be quite so large.
and they will have white linen collars
and cuffs, some sewed to the waist,
but the most of them detachable. Cling
hams, percales, lawns, organdies, silks
n VelutinaS are all among the ma
terials used for them, besides several
of the new crash linens n Kicker
qualities of the grass linens. Every
lady Will nave a whole IRA Of these
waists, and that demands also a lot
Of ties. Right here let me tell them
all-the ladies who will wear the ties
that to dip them up and down two or
three times in gasoline will cleanse the
most sOiled tie like new. Hang it over
a line in the air and the smell will
evapOrate in five minutes. Be careful
that there is no fire in the room or any
light.
A new idea this season Is one that
will please many ladies of refined
taste. That is that dresses are entirely
made of chantilly fiounces over black
taffeta or in some instances colored
silk. The founces are for this pur-
pose forty n forty-two inches deep
and are gathered at the waist and left
to fall free over the underskirt. The
sleeves are made of the same lace over
the silken lining and are heldSin ValoIs
puffs from top to bottom by narrow
velvet. The waist is draped in sur
pliced folds or is a plain French waist
with fancy belt. The Valois collar is
usually worn with these lace gowns,
and those 1 saw were opened in front
in V shape at the throat. Other black
lace gowns are made of black Brussels
net in accordian plaits. Every seventh
plat has a row of fine jet beads sewed
along the edge. The waist and sleeves
are trimmed to match. Quite a lot
of jet is thus put upon these net
dresses, and, as it is heavy, the pIaits
where it is sewed have to be tackled
to the lining in places to keep them
from sagging. These lace dresses are
very elegant. Next to them are the
black silk grenadines.
Sleeves do not appear to diminish
in size any more. The jackets require
a rather loose gigot sleeve, and many
ladies still insist upon a medium sized
leg o mutton sleeve to. their gowns.
but all theirs fit the arm snugly at
the top, and variations coming from
whatever Is added to the top in form
Of cap or epaulet or below in shape
of slashes, scallops or cuffs. Gauntlet
cuffs are quite often seen. Some are
still cut straight around, others are
slashed in square tabs or points, and
these are generally filed in with lace.
The caps are Of every conceivable
shape. Some are plain and straight
and gathered in. Others are double
and frilled with whatever may appear
most appropriate to the dressmaker. A
silk puff pushed up high on the shout,
der was edged with a chiffon plating
as full as it could be made. Some have
rfppled caps. Others are sIashed at
the top and filed In with materials
intended to form an ornamental con-
trast. The bishop sleeve to house
gowns Is narrower than it was and has
a self cuff of medium width. with a
fancy little ruffie UP the outside seam
as far as it opens. The Valois sleeve
is quite popular for thin goods. being
shirred all the way down, or else hand.
ed in in small puffs by rows of velvet
ribbon. In some ball and very preteY.-
tious dinner and reception gowns the
sleeves are not alike, one being MAJ he
for instance, ~of-lace, and the other ~
chiffon or silk null or even velvet. If
Is queer, but not so bad as 1t might
seem. Mate LEROY