The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-13
NOTES.

LIIC /.
GAsTRoNoMIo VOTES.
Tho capacity Of the human stomach has never
boon accurately determined. Public interest is
occasionally aroused in eating contests, but
these are confined chiefly to specialists who are
seeking to establish records as consumers OF pie,
cake. watcrmelons, &C. What we lack Is an all
round performer, ono who will lift himself to
the same ominence in ~gluttony that Kipling, for
example, occupies as n writer. A comparison OF
the averages of many noted professional and
amateur caters reveals that mono has reached
that OF Oakley Stanton OF Dcrbyshirc, England, |
who lived In the last century. Mr.. Stanton on
u certain occasion, in ono hour, ate a single meal
Of four dishes, composed rs follows: The first
dish was an amalgam Of two quarts OF milk,
thirty eggs, half a pound Of butter, half a pound
of sugar, three penny loaves. a quantity OF ginger
and nutmeg and an ounce OF mustard, all
boiled together. The second dish was a pound Of
cheese and a pound loaf OF bread; the third, half
n pound OF bacon, a penny loaf OF broad, q quart
OF ale, three halfpennios' worth Of gingerbread.
and n pint OF ale; tho fourth, q custard OF two
pounds, an ounce Of mustard. some black
pepper, a pint Of milk, and three pints Of ale.
As a proof that Mr.. Stanton suffered no incon-
venience from this repast, 1t is stated that he
passed the balance Of the evening drinking
copiously OF alo and liquor. This feat WINS for
some time considered unapproachablc, until a
porter of Truro on a bot Of r shillings ate two
pairs of worstcd stockings fried in train oil and
half n pound OF yellow soap. Success inspired
this man to another effort. The wager on this
tripe as would make him a jacket
with sleeves. He took the bet and was regu-
into the exact size and shape OF tho garment.
Tho porter ate 1t nll In twenty minutes. asa
dee 70 not without distinction. He consumed
nine large twopenny pies In fourteen and q half
and Induced betting men to lay odds against
him that he could not devour twelve pies Of the
same dimensions in Twenty-Five minutes, The
He offered TO occupy the remaining. marTin OF
time BY eating halfa dozen more. It. is alleged
that this establishes tho record on pies. but 1T
lie safe to say that It has heen surpassed by some
professionals of the east sida.
Some years ago a San Francisco banker main
tanned a country house upon what were sup
posed to be entirely original lines. Il was, how.
ever. a poor imitation Of the establishment OF
Mr.. Mathew of Thomaston, Ireland, who livcd
in the earlier years Of the last century. Mr..
Mathew inherited an annual income OF about
$l25 600. For many years no lived abroad in n
very frugal manner In order to accumulate an
amount that would enable him to indulge in e
form OF hospitality in his own country in har-
mony with the plan he had devised. His house
In Ireland might be compared in size with n
modern hotel. Each of those he wanted 10 visit
him had a suite of apartments and or
dcred his meals at the hour that best
suited him. He could eat alone or no could in.
vite others TO join him. All the visitors hunted,
shot. fshed, played billiards or cards at will, and
all brought their own horses. There was n reg
ular bar where drinks were served without stint.
Mr.. Mathew as host completely effaced himself.
He mingled with his visitors as ono whose stay
was as definitely hxcd as theirs. In fact he CON
Quoted his house MS IL 1t were a hotel with the
exception that all was without charge. No ser;
i SsH' T ruio "'i Sss e toi hssssi a By Up he S'0'f insss% Ss
dismissal Of the offender. This estAb.
Ih rei"nd or t Sei period S.R was e eonhaef pS with per- Tt
feet order and method and without waste. His
S MsthbeM al OF he la moSe famous sn% si mem Of the 20 time me.
The great sum that he had put aside during his
residence abroad enabled him to indulge his
OF the vicissitudes OF life the estate passed into
tho hands of descendant who was a ~fanatical
with which the cellars OF the house were filled
when he took possession rem maine a untouched namra he'd
occupancy Of the property.
A short marinade. so called. composed of oil,
vinegar. spices and herbs. in which meat. fowl
and fish are immersed for several hours previous
to cooking. is supposed to impart a distinct flavor
to the tissuec. 1t is impossible for a bath of this
description to accomplish that purpose. Its
effect may be realized only IL q portion or the
whole OF the marinade be incorporated in the
sauce that accompanies the dish when 1t Is
served. When meat, hsh or fowl remains in such
an emulsion for q few hours, the bulk Of the
marinade will be increased by just so much Of
the juices Of the food as seep into IL. This clearly
proves that there is no absorption but quito
the contrary. II meat, fowl. or fish could be
preserved In a short marinade for several weeks
1t would without question assimilate the flavor
OF the ingredients OF the bath but n marinadc
OF this nature possesses no preventative quail
tiles such rs one composed exclusively OF salt in
which beef and pork are immersed. The Daily
MAI of London. in an account of a dinner given
by Joseph. the proprietor and chef Of the some
what noted Restaurant Marivaux OF Paris, eN-
tolls a preparation OF chicken served. In this
instance It's supreme SAVIOR is accounted for by
tho fact that the fowl was first wrapped in the
belly b \! c Of q Lamb Ph and t nfter ,rsafm sw%tG i%p IN Ssi1 nv
absorption a special aroma to the bird. This is
pure plague: !, was also stated that, the fowl
was sGutGd in the steam of n bottle of whiskey
and one OF port wine. This would confer no dis.
tinct flavor unless the whiskcy and wing were
chicken. It is alleged that Joseph is an English,
man. whose merit Is considered to be enhanced
by the circumstance TINT nc was for u time In
Inc service OF a rich American from whom he re-
ceived u salary at the rate OF $4,000 u year.
The names bestowed upon certain dishes have
often an origin chtlrc!y uiHtlhct from techhl'al
consideration. This ID true Of the well-knowr
epigrammcs d'aRncau a Ia Michele or D la Tou'
louise, rs II is more frequently called. Michelet
was the cook of n young French Marquise OF Tie
last century, who was noted for her lack OF edu
cation. On n certain occasion she gave q dinner
to the officers of the regiment Choiseul-Cava
lerie. During the function her guests spoke Of
banquet that they had attended on the previous
evening, at which the host had entertained then
with many new and brilliant programmes. Tit
Marquesc supposed that "epigrams" referred
to culinary surprises; consequently she sum
mond Michelet, her cook. and. ordered him Z
prepare some epiGram4 for dinner on the fol
lowing day. Michelet was greatly troubled a
10 how he was to obey the order. lie recol
iected, however. that lac had in tho larder SOM
very superior lamb. llc praised the breast, re
moved the bones. cut the meat into pieces, an,
Predetermined and fried them, He then cooked
the outlets, arranged them on a dish alternate
ly with the praised breast, and served them witt