The Monitor-register., 1897-10-15
COSTUMES.

lovely woman. If some of these cloak
manufacturers should see this and mend
their ways, then l should feel that ]
have not lived in vain.
The new cloaks and wraps destined
for the comfort and adornment of the
before mentioned lovely woman this
fall and the coming winter have engaged
my attention for the last two days. l
think l have never seen so great a va
riety of garments for out of doors, nor a |
variety where the variations were so
marked. We find tight fitting jackets,
scarcely more than basques in some
cases, and i'll others three-quarter
lengths. listers reaching the ground
are shown, some with draped fronts
and others half and still others full fit
ting and cut in princess shape. Some
have pressed and stitched seams, some
strap seams and others ordinary ones.
There is nc special style for the stitch
ing other than a proper regard for the
kind of material. For instance, kersey
looks best strap stitched, so does covert.
All the rest look best with the seams
pressed. 1t is optional whether one
stitches down each side of the seam or
not. 1t looks ''mannish," like mems
overcoats. and is suitable for cheviots
and other woolly goods. Some of the
ulsters are braided, some stitched, some
have applications of thick broadcloth in
large scroll designs and many have semi
military trimming of braid or cord. The
blouse tailor costume is braided more or
less deliberately and according to the
taste of the wearer. Silk frogs and
breloques and piquets are all worn.
Fur will be worn on almost every out
door garment after the LIST of Novem-
Der. Collars, bands and borders, also
deep cuffs, are already made for the
market. These are mostly of krimmer,
~astrakhan, Persian and electric seal.
Capes in all lengths are exhibited.
Plush in black and seal are fur border
ed, richly beaded and embroidered and
lined with handsome brocade. Kersey,
melton, heavy cloth, beaver and astrak-
han weave are all used to make capes, |
and so is rich black velvet. The collars
vary in style, some being quite small
and some very large in m~erovingian
shape. Some of the kersey jackets are
% and 80 inches deep. They are stitch
ed around the bottom and have straps
over the shoulders and to the waist line
front and back, and these straps are
braided very closely with black silk SOU
tache. Across the bust are loops of mil
itary braid held by rosettes made of the
braid. When this is in dark blue with
black silk braid, the effect is fine and
rich. There are both single and double
breasted jackets, and nc end to differ
ent fancies in empire shapes. All these
fine coats are lined with handsome Ro-
man striped silks or fancy taffeta bro
cades or iridescent taffetas. Refers are
made for young folks Of rough cloth
and they are usually in double breast
effect. Dark woolly plaid is the f~avorite
stuff for these, finished with three large
smoke pearl buttons. There are also
many gretchen shaped coats for small
girls, these being mostly in the new
rough plaids.
The shawl capes are very stylish.
They are made of twilled plaids in the
regular blanket shawl weave and are
trimmed with fringe or straps of plain
cloth stitched on. The blanket shawl
also under the head of this sea-
sons wraps and will be worn by the
"smart set" for it's undeniable style.
There are so many ways of adjusting a
shawl that it is no wonder these are to
be favorites.
In the making and trimming OF gowns
there is no end to the new designs.
Every one differs from the others. One