davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

them at a reasonable profit. She must
be able to judge in a moment when q
newly designed article is shown her at
the factory whether or not the price
asked for IL is reasonable. She must
know the wholesale price for the vel
vet, silk or satin that trims the gar
ment; also. the price of the cloth il is
made of. the cost of the making. and
so on, and be able to calculate to a
fraction just what profit she ought to
allow the manufacturer. To good
buyer the manufacturer shows his best
and most unique bargains. II she is not
liberal. wants to jew him down to too
close a margin, or IL she does not buy
enough to make it worth his while 10
cater to her tastes. he shows her only
his slow selling goods and keeps the
rest back for more enterprising GUS
tom.
How much money does a woman buy
er for such an important department
use during the year? II she is a good
worker, she turns her stock money over
two or three times. Certainly she buys
during the year from $500. 900 to $500. 600
worth of goods. Such a buyer will have
been in the business certainly ten years
or more and have familiarized herself
with every detail. Occasionally bright.
keen witted woman with a talent for
comparing values will learn the mar
ket and its possibilities and limitations
in less than three years time.
Up to a few seasons ago woman buy
ers were employed principally in the
women's underwear and infants goods
departments or in the buying of cor
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
Two Woman Architects.

What men have failed TO do two New
York women have accomplished. They
have solved the tenement house ques-
be broken at 2l5 and 217 West Sixty
seventh street. New York. for the erec-
ton of a model dwelling for the poor.
The plans were got up by Miss Mary
Nevan Cannon and Miss Alice J..
Hands. two young architects. Tha
plans have been examined by many ar
chitects and builders and pronounced
| By all 10 be a solution OF the much dis
cussed problem.
months" said Miss Cannon. for well
known architects have examined our
drawings. and there IL no doubt va
shall receive a permit 10 go on with the
building in a few days. When IL .s
reality. when capitalists realize they
can surely save 5 per cent and proba-
bly, per cent on their money. L firmly
believe many similar houses will bs
erected by the New York Model Dwell
ings company. When Miss Hands and Z
made up our minds 70 plan tenement
house. We realized how very little ws
knew OF the life In one. We could de-
sign a home for Ourselves. We havs
built many pretty villas along the Jer-
sey coast and elsewhere. but how ~
provide for people of whose necessities
we knew nothing7 That Was a serious
question. and there WAS but one way 10
answer ito go and get acquainted
with such people and their needs.
we went down % Forsyth street
and hired two rooms Nobody knew us
or the reason for going there. We be.
gan housekeeping under just about the
same conditions as though We were
two poor factory girls. We made our
home as pretty as possible. but that
was due to judgment in buying rather
than expense. We never called uS,on
our neiEhbors unless there Was SENS
reason for doing 80. but We went out Il
the way 10 End a reason. FOR We Wsnt
ed 20 become acquainted with them.
Later We moved 10 ths west AIDE os
toz-n"
For a YEA. these women lived among
the POOR. They suffered from want %
proper ventilation and light. ard
they paid as high as az ton for
coal. which the we'll 20 DO get for a..
Simply because they had no plscs in
their home for more than a bgckstfui
at a tisnc- They know the hsrdshsps
of being cooped Cd In two small. ss11y
rooms. Efthout breathing spot % "a
20 On warm nights. Oat % their sx-
pefleace has grown the plan Outlined.
50 perfect that Jacob RiiE. whose writ
lnzs on tenement sife have WOO for hin
world vide celebrity. szys= Il consiesr
!, an extraordinary and marvellous
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS in IL simple
ify and derooaktrafioE- We have al
been Eroping within reach a ihr soias
flon without hnsinx - ] ara cent~at
20 know that TIE qsssstton judges ~
of solution has been solved att
- -
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

cline to lay aside, giving the people
whom they are visiting an opportunity
to see them in the most picturesque
framing possible.
The skins of animals seem proper for
women to wear, for one can think of
the brave lover risking his life to hunt
wild beasts that they may be laid at
the feet of his iadylove TO form a man
tie for her, which will always remind
her of his temerity. That sounds nice
and sentimental. but nowadays the
bravery usually consists in the man
being willing to pay the bill after my
lady has chosen what she desires to
possess in the way OF furs. Every wo-
man longs for sables-Russian sables-
but unfortunately every woman does
not get them. However. there are
other furs that are wonderfully becom-
ing and which are within the reach OF
the average woman. There is the blue
fox, which is gray. and which brings
out the olive skin Of the brunette in
the most exquisite manner. Then there
are mink and ernline and black fox for
the blond. who. if she has good bank
account. makes herself look handsome
in a Russian blouse of sealSlxin having
high collar of ermine. Almost any
trouble could be borne in such a gar
ment, for the consultations Of religion
would be weak beside 1t. There Is some
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

very often, too often, they are satisfied
with what they have got and don't dis
cover the difference until their hands
are poisoned by the weeds, their eyes
are hurt and often their hearts are
made to smart. How shall we know?
There is a woman of so. dressed in a
dignified way. whose children honor
her and who today is ready to sympa-
thize with them in their sorrow or their
joy-this is a flower.
There is another woman OF the same
age. and she bore no children; they
were too much trouble. Her hair is
bIeached. her face is painted. and she
dresses like a girl of Is and acts like
the fool that she is-this is a weed.
There is a man who is loving and
tender to his wife, devoted to his chill
dren, honest in his business. kind to his
friends; in fact, a gentleman-thati is a
flower.
There is another man whose manners
are too fine to be true. who can argue
one into believing that wrong is right
and who takes off his best manners as
he does his dress clothes-that is a
weed.
There is young, pretty girl, pleasant
OF manner, pure and honest in speech
and thought, good to be with as well
as to look at-that is flower.
There is a young woman who speaks
as you would not like your sister to,
who dresses very loudly, who may at
tract you. who may even get your love;
look out-that is a weed.
In the garden of life there will be
found plenty Of weeds and plenty Of
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

sets and such articles exclusively fem
mime. Now women are buying shoes.
umbrellas. jewelry. notions. leather
goods and STATIONERY, and a few. those
Of very excellent judgment. are intrust-
ed with the buying of laces and furs.
The fur department. in one OF the
largest houses in a northwestern city
is entirely controlled by a woman.
do you like to buy?' this young wo-
man was asked not long ago. Il love
it," she answered. II buy direct from
the factories. and the men say them
selves that they can't fool me on gar
ment. They have tried TO puzzle me
sometimes by laying out a lot of skins.
all OF one sort. and insisting that ons
was better than the skin I preferred.
but have certain rules 20 20 by. and
can tell the feel OF n fur. seldom making
mistake. Out OF a number of seal
skins. with no mark 10 identify them.
can tell the exact kind Of seal that
each skin came from when took the
position of saieswoman in the fur de-
partment I made up my mind tht, !
would learn all there Was To know
about the trade. although. Of course. 7
could have sold stock without that
knowledge.
This able buyer purchases evening
wraps and fur garments worth 800 AMI
800 apiece. She - responsible for 1Zso.-
Oeo worth of goods during reason
a notable illustration o: the success
of the woman buyer IS the number OF
thriving businesses now condUctsd By
women who made their capital in that
way within the last nine or ten years.
Il started with 81 30. saved from my
salary as Il buyer in the suit Depart
Tneni at o. & q 3 said self made 40
man IN New York city recently. Il
now do a business OF :55S 90 a year
What do I think of women buyers as
contraHted with raen7 I think those
women who put their minds on their
business aaG don't look upon IL merely
"a make do until they get married
are as shrswd. practical bsyers and
can make as good thing al tAs trade
as men
In Chicago. in Se1 York. II Phlia-
dsiphia. there are Seyerai lazfzacss or
women who have retired % a lie %
ease On the Money made
a. buyeTs-
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

7 have this to say OF one Of my NO.
men buyers-that when she came 10 me
ten years ago s4S was the highest pric.
ed infants or child's cloak I could sell.
and today $50 is no exceptional valus
for my best goods in that line" said the
proprietor OF a fashionable store This
woman has enterprise" he added.
When I would hold back about in
vestments. afraid that I was riskine
too much. she would represent matters
so plainly that / was encouraged to
venture. She keeps herself in touch
with our particular run OF customers.
She knows what they want and what
they are willing TO pay for IL II IL is
procured for them. I unheSitatinsly
say that she has made the cream OF
my trade what IL is today
When You can set woman's nat.
urally conservative and economical
ideas. combined with enterprise. YOU
have No. l buyer said the manager
OF a long established house in a fash
ionable shopping center. Il have had
much experience In business and I pre-
fer women buyers for all department.
where taste and very delicate discrimi-
nation are necessary. Occasionally you
see woman buying boys clothing
successfully, but she succeeds best
where she can crafty her taste for
variety. You never see woman in
the suit department buying too many
suits OF one color or one style She
knows human nature too we'll She
knows that. no matter how pretty and
desirable a garment may be. 10 souae-
/ body else has one exactly like II its
charm is lost. Last year In a neighbor-
| ing firm there was a man buyer who
crippled the entire misses department.
by buying too many goods OF one pat
tern. Women buyers. too. are near.y
always in the store. They seem to love
their work. and they watch the trade
better than men. A man. when his ex-
act work is over at his counter. goes
I off to pass the time pleasantly, but the
woman stays. and her employer gets
all OF her time and attention"
In glancing over the classified list Of
buyers IL is noticeable that the prefix
Miss is as 10 10 l compared with Mrs.
For some reason women buyers are not
often married women-pernaps because
they are too much engrossed in ths
work or because IL Is work that viii
not stand any rival interest Be that
as ii may. woman's growing CONNER
cial efficiency is plainly evidenced by
the testimony of figures. facts and her
own expressed preference for business
| life.
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

heaven that there are a great many
| fools still in existence.
However, there is an occasional mil
| liner who tells the truth. She said to
me the other morning: Big hats were
, bought early in the season by the very
smart women, who wore them when
they were driving and while they were
still in the country, but now they are
the women who have the close fitting
little toques oftenest made of a piece
left from their gowns. Don't misun-
derstand me. These toques are not
cheap. The less they have on the more
they cost. because under much trim
ming you can hide bad work, but a SIM
pie hat must be perfect in its develop
ment"
The well dressed woman is without
doubt that woman who understands
the eternal fitness of things. When the
beautiful Duchess of Devonshire was
painted and the artist made her ia
nous nobody dreamed that such a hat
as hers would be worn except in the
daytime In those days magnificence
was the keynote of all dress, and un-
doubtedly her ladyship had just come
from a walk in the garden the day her
dressed in a brocaded petticoat and a
satin jacket for her morning stroll.
But when she went to the theater to
laugh at Nell Gwynn or to the opera
to hear the French singers her beau
tiful hair was deliberately dressed with
feathers and jewels. and she took off
after she entered her box the quilted
hood that protected her head from
drafts as she travelled through the
streets in her sedan chair.
Nowadays hats and gowns suited to
the street are worn in the evening.
laceS and jewels proper only for even
ing wear are conspicuous in the morn
ing and the law of good taste seems
forgotten. But there are some women
who dress Well. Occasionally one does
meet a woman who in the morning is
Sowned in the simplest of cloth frocks.
who in the afternoon goes visitin, in a
rich silk and velvet and a tiny bonnet
and who in the evening is fine and gay
in bright colors and lace rich Jewels
and rustling silks and all the furbe-
lows specially permitted to lovely wo-
man.
by the bye, fur is on everything from
the ball 10 the dressing gown and from,
men always feel luxurious when they
have on furs. They c2ress one. They
make the skin look whittier. the eyes
brighter and clearer. and given warm
room. wherein there are plenty of flow
ers and some sweet perfumes the wo-
man who goes in from the cold wrap
ped up in furs suddenly feels a sense
of great luxury as she pulls the soft,
warm wrappingS about her. even il she
does not need them I remember three
beautiful actresses who always looked
their best in fur lined cloaks-Liilie
Lanstry, in a sapphire velvet cloak.
lined with the skins OF 500 chinchillas:
Olga Nethersole. in an orange velvet
wrap. lined with ermine. and Mrs.
Brown Potter. in a green velvet wrap.
lined with mink. Ouida. that artist in
dress. always covers her heroines with
furs. which TOR time they always de-
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
The Odors Of Home.

There are" said Mr.. Wingleby. Ger
tain household odors that are insepara-
BILE from true home. Thus wouldnt
give much for a home in which you did
not get regularly every morning the de-
lightfui odor of freshly ground and
freshly made coffee. an appetizer for
breakfast. and / expect one regularly
once a week. on Mondays. the permeat-
ing odor of hot water and soap that
marks the weekly washday-
During period OF a few weeks re-
Gently. when there was temporary va
cancy In the household staff. 1 missed
something. What il was I couldn't
guess. but when the time for 1t came I
was conscious OF something wanting. /
know now what ii was. 1t was the Mon
day morning soap and water.
For time Mrs. Wingleby had put
the washing out. but now that the do
mestic staff is filled again il is once
more done at home Once more on
Monday mornings now. I get the soapy.
steamy smell. and home Is home again" >"
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
WOMEN WHO BUY GOODS
FOR BUSINESS HOUSES,
There Are Over Seven Hundred American Ladies
In This Branch Of CON-
rlerCid Life.

New York, Dec. 1o.-A certain little
cloth covered volume published dur
ing the present year contains a list of
the names significant in the great re-
tail trade of the country, the names
of the buyers who select and purchase
goods for various firms in all parts Of
the Union. There are over 200 women's
names registered in this list. and those
able to judge state that there are fully
200 other women buyers whose names
are merely set down as S. Brown or c..
Jones. without the distinguishing pre-
fix of Miss or Mrs.
You can depend upon it that when
ever you find a woman occupying the
position of buyer it is because she is
exceptionally qualified for it, said the
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

sGsi rgShsd over eaby's cs-rt gives IN
siznt rs.ief IN case Of a eosd ca shs
isnzs o. a cough
Grass stains Ray - removed sru-rs
Hshf sumner sroeks By daup~ni-x ths
soiist PAR II little ascosol ard fals-
bsng seii usfis 10 trace e sh- kfeez 10
left
To remove rzint frorn wsrssz xs.s,
rub little vinegar On the syots
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

manager OF q big department store.
THE post OF the buyer is too response
bic, too closely allied with the heart OF
the business. to be bestowed lightly
So, with this surety TO so by. II is safe
to infer that there are between 500 and
1000 women in the United States pos
sessed of exceptional business capacity
and putting their talents in that line
to everyday use.
There are at least 50 per cent more
women buyers in the trade now than
there were six years ago" this autbori-
ty added. THE reason2 Well. because
even conservative merchants are begin
ming to have confidence in women's
Judgment, and there is such ample
proof day after day Of their ability that
only prejudiced men fout at IT, From
the time that women first entered the
stores at all, even as saleswomen. their
taste and intuition for style. their ab!l-
ity to select. were noticed. The only
thing that held them back from the
highest positions and that holds them
back now in some houses was the fear
that they could not be relied on TO
make jUdicious investments. Many vo-
men are incapable in this respect. but
most OF these buyers VIC are speaking
Of have keen business sense. are con-
servatiye and yet at the same time have
enterprise enough to lay IN supply OF
novelties OF even risky high priced
goods in order TO keep their department
up to the mark"
What salary can woman buyer
make year, For an exclusive house.
where she handles only fine line OF
goods. she is pai6 from 5000 TO 8. .eo9 a
year Such a buyer purchases the
misses and ladies' suits direct from the
factory where they are made. fine.
well cut. veil put up suits Of original
design She must not have too many
OF one size or pattern. yet she must
have enough She must know her line
OF custom from a TO 4 and know sx-
actiy how much she can afford 10 par
apiece for such goods IN order 10 sell
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
When Accidents Occur.

A prominent English shl2buBsIng srrn
has given ou, th@ record from i,s. ss-
ei6sni book for ths sass 'S0 years Ths
figures. or rather fhs cocrirssons.
drawn frcrn fhe record are az follows:
SIX q. N 20 ssis a. m. II Or cent. > a.
m 20 p. m. - per eeots z-is .. IA to
s.Is .. "a. = per cent. Esis .. n 90 q
m. per cent TIE iast Item covers a.
- the sperstacn os nixhi shlfs Ia sxo
cegerfnsatA
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

there are any very bad stains or grease
marks which visi rot yieid 70 Tie sap
aior@ roo little tErpearine oa then.
WSsa fatirons occasionally giih
warm water. 70 every t~ao quarts ~
which hss been aa5ea hzif = table
spoonful of melted la-d. WIPE thor
-sghiy and set IN a warm p.2cs fiIi
perfectly free from moisture.
To clean caryets without taking them
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
THREE PRETTY WOMEN
IN FUR LINED (L0AK6
Bah Writes an Interesting Letter on Tie WefI
Dressed Maid and Fdtron
Of Toddu.

feathers surmounting them. are shown
in the shop windows and are sold to
those unsuspecting women who believe
what their milliners tell them. AS the
woman who buys whatever she is ad-
vised to is many in number. you see
the big hat here. there and everywhere.
The tall women look like overgrown
mushrooms and small women look like
candles wearing fire extinguishers. and
the wind plays havoc with the feathers.
and the milliners smile and thank
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

gether equal parts of the yoiks OF eggs
and giycerin. apply il TO the stains and
allow il 10 soak for half an hour or 50
before the article is washed
Few people know how useful oil OF
peppermint is as remedial agent A
little rubbed over a sensitive corn
eliminates the soreness in miraculous
manner.
A dirty macintosh should be spread
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
The Best Blotting Paper.

hiotting paper should be secured either
in white or in gray These are the
pFett.est tints. and. moreover. serve the
purpose most effectively Pink blot
ters. for example. spread the ink and
are spongy. 50 experience has proved
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

out fat on a table and scrubbed all
over with naiibrIIsb- Using cold. soft
water and yellow soap. when All dirt
is OF, dip the cloak n several to;s o.,
clean. cold water. but do not wiring
IL out Shake Well and hang IL ~ in
the open air. II possible. 10 dry. Fai!-
ing In this. let {; hang in = cool room
but on no account pat II near the fire.
Hot water must never be used. aad II
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

some persons find relief by inserting
tabloid Of cocaine into the nostrils and
letting it dissolve and exert its action
on. the nose membrane
Stains on white fam are hard TO
remove. The best way is TO mix to-
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

pp: Frs; thoroughly r~sep the ezr-
pst. then put ;eszssonfBls - ammonia
70 pail q water and scrub sa@ carpet
with medium brush and uis,e With a
cloth e1zcfIy a. yea SoaIa DO IN es~an-
snz an BBfs8nt~d Goo-. ehanzs ib~ ~a-
ter freqasnfiy. leave ;hs wis1gEa c5~n.
and the carpet = 80 peo1 dry
Two OF three drors % osi of pepper
n4zt nsxsc With ss szszl sxnouar of
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12
FACTS WORTH KNOWING,

Hay fever may be treated by inhal-
ing the vapors of pint OF hot water.
TO which ten drops OF creosote have
been added. The nostrils may be
sprayed with a solution of quinine (two
grains 10 the ounce of waterl, while
The Wichita daily eagle., 1897-12-12

flowers. What you and I want to
learn, my friend, is to pick out the
flowers from the weeds. though, God
help us. perhaps we are weeds our
selves. I can't answer for you, and
You can't answer for
Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1897-09-07
A RIVER COLLISION
BETWEEN SoRf6Lk STEAMER AND
ALEXANDRIA FERRY-BOAT.
Crash In n Dense FOg-severnl Per-
sons Badly Hurt-Great Damage to
One of the Craft-To He Court-Mar-
tailed.
tailed.

ALEXANDRIA,. VA, september o.
lsnecial)- collision occurred this morn
ing In the river off this city between the
Norfolk and Washington steamer New
mort News and the ferry-boat Columbia
IN which the latter boat was badly dam
aged and three persons hurt. captain
Folkes. of the Columbia. was severely
Injured about the head and shoulders
and IL is feared that he is hurt internally
Two of the passengers Of the ferry-poat-
Messrs. James Scott and John Rinaido
an itallan--sustained serious cuts ana
bruises. A dense fog prevailed on the
river at the time of the collision, and nc
blame attaches to the captain or crew Oh
either craft. The Columbia. which is
comparatively new boat. and the nnes'
IN the ferry service between this city ano
Washington, Is total wreck on the por'
side amidships, and will have to be en-
tirely rebuilt In that quarter. The only
damage sustained by the Newport News
was n broken Flagstaff on her bow, anC
abe proceeded on her way 10 washington
The Columbia was towed TO Baltimore
this evening for repairs.
CAPTAIN Bryan, OF the Alexandra Ligh
Infantry. says that he intends to court
martial the men who were absent iron
the annual inspection on Friday evening
last. IL is said here tonight that IN
discharge of twenty-one members OF IN
company will be asked foy. This actor
xvill be taken for the best interests
Alexandria's crack military organization