The record-union., 1897-04-18

| Serpentine null is a good new ma
terial for shirt waists. 1t is cool and
sheer, yet strong enough to endure
much hard wear. Foulard lawn is much
cheaper, selling for Is cents yard,
but it is a good material for shirt
! waists.
The shirt waists show two decidedly
| new collars. The petal collar is eX-
| tremely pretty. 1t is of linen cut in the
| shape of petals. The petals fall away
from the neck. They are white, lined
with a colored linen, which generally
corresponds with the prevailing tint
of a shirt waist.
Another new collar is a straight cler-
ical affair, fastening at the back. 1t is
made with bit of an outstanding edge
! all around the top.
I The backs of the new shirt waists
are a trifle different than those of last
season. The newest is the box-plaited
back. This is made with a double box
plat in the middle and single box plaits
! of either side. Others have merely a
deep yoke. An odd design seen in many
of the latest shirt waists is to have the
! yoke continue over the shoulders, so
that it is seen from the front.
It is a fixed rule with most we'll
/ dressed women to avoid the first in
stallment of styles, and to wait until
! colors and fashions tone down some
what The first color with this season
was red. and red it still stays-a most
| vivid shade of cerise (Which somehow
seems redder than cherry. When be-
! coming, cerise is immensely so, but
when unbecOming, much to be avoided.
! However, the milliners are very clever
/ in arranging it with black, so that the
/ too vivid effect is somewhat done away
with Shaded taffeta silk by the yard,
or taffeta ribbon, is used to make soft
crowns for black straw hats and bon
nets, or is twisted and shirred with
black lace, and has black lace aigrettes
or ostrich plumes; the black with the
! cerise is a most effective combination.
| Cerise- colored straws are also seen,
/ and there are one or two styles, some
/ what in sailor shape, with the straw
/ and the trimmings all of the same vivid
/ hue The smartest of all is in black
chip with white facing. The trimming,
/ knife-pleated mousseline de sole, is
black, but large red bird is perched
at one side with wings outspread. I'm
| der the brim toward the back of the
hat are punches of red pleated chiffon.
Chiffon and mousseline de sole in every
shade of color are as much in favor as
ever, and play an important part in
hat trimmings, while tulle also is ex-
| trennely fashionable.
Theater bonnets in the same coloring
are made Of parts of cerise taffeta rib
! bon, roses Of the same shade and
sprays of leaves. The touch of green in
the leaves is extremely good and makes
| the red more becoming.
! For stylish spring tailor gowns that
will serve as travelling dresses through
out the summer are English stuffs as
openly woven as canvas cloth, also bas-
ket-cloths in light, handsome qualities
| in cool. dark blue brown, green or
black wool These materials are about
forty-six inches wide and cost from
| 81 - to 81 30 a yard. They vie with
! the English serges that have resumed
their former popularity, not only in the
! long-favored marine dyes, the coolest,
| richest-looking of all the dark colors,
/ but in the gray blues, fawn, gray. sage
and brown. Basket-woven clothes of
/ two colors in tiny checks are among the
prettiest soft wool textiles in rose color,
| checked with reSeda, in violet with
/ stem green, fawn with blue, red and
gray. In silk and wool these checks
are expensive, but they are very wide.
| New Scotch cheviots combine two or
/ three colors with white, one stylish
example blending green, blue and white
| together Dappled cheviots show several
shades of one color with cream white,
green being first choice among these,
/ hen violet a touch of English pink,
and all the pretty dyes in brown.
Shirt-waists made of every possible
sort of material will be quite as gen.
| orally worn as ever. There is not the
least diminution in their popularity;
on the contrary, the rage for out-of-
door amusements, which wakes more
/ and more universal, renders this style
of easy, neat, and natty dressing still
more generally adopted. OF course
/ the wearing of shirt waists is no long
er a fad but their usefulness and I'M
deniable comfort have become so thor
oughly well established that every
/ complete summer outfit includes at
1 least haiT a QOZeD III iiiltIl, wash
si1k 6ifnity, lawn, and similar light
i stcs
IN snae of authentic accounts from
tsa most official sources and of endless
aghs from the tailors and dressmak
esss. se Ubiquitous fancy waist makes
/ 10 e aan and fascinating appearance
among the ovely things in spring and
SUI ms - hing. 1t will not down; this
seen aos e. and for the very good
reason Rat is one of the most attrac-
1 tive aad era aful forms of dress ever
| deyise6 or general uses as well as for
/ the most ornate and charming finish
ing touch to an elaborate toilet: and
the temp ing. novel and beautiful crea
tions IL these bodices now exhibited
by noted importers are potent evidences
that they are still at the hight of favor
both here and abroad.
The beautiful. very natural looking
French violets seem to be in greater
favor-if possibae--than ever. and the
great liking for these blossoms will