New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-05
A PANORAMA OF TRAVEL.
SCENERY OF Eco-
LAND.


4 GRAY SUNDAY IN LoNDoN-BEAUTlEU' EN-
y1KoNMENT or ENGLISH LGFE-MEMotA-
BILE PI-AcEs-MALYERN AND HERE
FoRD-rHE wYNDcLlrE AND
TlNTERN ABBEY.
rysoM A STAFF CORRESPONDENT oy THE 1hiBcNE'I
London, august ).
Il Is Sunday night. III The heart OF LONDON
Rain has fallen many times to-day ana as the
Sloaming deepcns the SKY IS gray and. gloomy
-.,,h drifting clouds The music Of the clouds
has ,ust died away end IN the hush that foi-
Iovs hear the twitterlng Of many birds and
the rustic % leaves and branches in the strong
COO, fragrant wind a: most tines. IN 'his vast
and ponderous capital, the seAse that Expresses
\ thoughtful mind is that OK the overwhelming
surge and stress OF human life: in this serene
hour the dominant consciousness is that Of opu-
lent. prodigious diversified and al-encirchng
mace and beauty. One month ago,-a pilgrim.
rev!siting hallowed shrnes 70 say fareWell'-4
landed on the south shore Of England and, until
this moment. drifting from place 10 place nave
known little bu; action and wearing excite
ment Tonight there is pause, and the old
,aeIing OF genuine composure comes back upon
eDirlt, l
home. the land OF my youthful longings. the
land that was the fufment of all my early
dreams.
4 sunptuous and beautiful environment nat
orally tends 10 genuine composure-but ii must
cease 10 be novel before il will begin to soothe.
As review the long interval since that lovely
summer morning when the golden rocks Of the
scu,v Islands just gmmered into view-with
how he
ing SUM- remember mass Of things, which
only now have crystallized into harmonious
nictures. There Is a grand strain of organ
music. and the gray spaces Of st. Pauls Cathe-
drsI seem peopIed with angel forms that float
inward IN The rrotted vault and vanish into
heaven The sunlight streams upon the sacred
memorials IN the Poets Corner OF the great
Abbey. and all the glores of English literature.
from Chaucer 10 Tennyson. throng into the mind
and overwhelm 1t with equal gratitude and
wonder II IS night upon the black and silent
Thames and under the cold light of stars, rise.
grim and ghastly. the sinister bastions Of the
haunted Tower. Midnight is broodinS over the
plains and hedgerows and copses Of beautiful
warwickshire and as sit upon the old white
stone bench, by the riverside. IN Stratford
Churchyard a chill wind stirs the leaves. and,
beneath a Gibbous moon. the great elms that en-
circle the ancient church are reflected In the
still Avon far below. and all the world is turned
10 memory end dream.
It is a glorious summer morning. and beneath
a sky Of blue and gold. and snowy drifting fleece
I watch the gray spire OF the Shakespeare
Church TIL It fades in the distance, and is gone
while all around me green and yellow helcs
that seem 10 bask in warm sunshine. and are
sweetlv peaceful with recunlbent sheep. and
drovsv cattle and indolent rocks. little later
the crag Of Neon vanishes. the ancient town OF
Fyeshan with us noble tower, its breezy Nanes'
ora ,,s hroad reaches OF sparkling river. recedes
and disappears. and am speeding through the
gardens and apple orchard % Evesham Vale
and Pershore and melting away from my VISION
Ike rifted clouds Of fairyland. the lovely Cots
void hills dwindle into silver haze. The blaze OF
noon is brilliant on the red roofs OF Worcester
and the great gray cathedral, with It's massive.
ornate tower and cone-shaped pinnacles. comes
unon the soul like a benedictiOn, saying that
beautv Is immortal and that grandeur has not
vet left the world Soon the lonely heights or
Malvern glide into the picture and | see the
charming breezy crescent city. where IL sleeps
upon the mountainside--its sober villas draped
with tn green and pink and scarlet Of geraniuin'
the white petunia. the dropping spiendcr OF the
fuchs!a the clinging clusters Of purple ciemau''
roses that yet linger. although summer has al
most ended and great wells Of emerald IVY 'ha'
tremble in tie perfumed wind Storm and sun
shine are glorious in their giant strife upon the
windy sumrlits OF the Worcestershire Beacon
and Of the ancient British camp that fro"ns
over the beautiful vale % the Severn, but the
wonderful prospect.-perhaps the most WONDER
>ul in all England-is spread before me- al inter-
walls. for many witching hours, while. looking
down upon distant Gloucester and Cheltenha'h
and Tewkesbury, and over toward WhchcohN
and Sudeley-where lie the old kings 81 Mercla
and across the Welsh hills toward stored Here
ford. with all the beauties around me OF "ha'
u,.s once Malvern Chase. muse upon the Wars
Of the Roses. and see. as in a vision. the whole
vast and splendid pageant Of the history OF Eng
land
So the days pass, and so the scene changes
"a o,,.r, change is fraught with meaning. The
roa, s,ooas Of distant Bredon Hill are left be-
Sta ard through the great tunnel beneath the
mountains 81 Malvern the wanderer hashes INTO
Tho sunnv fields and smiling valleys Of Wales
7, o. : naaceful afternoon al Hereford. anI IN
Tho LADY Chanel Of its venerable CathedraI
-, Cor = long time and gaze upon the lovely
larce, windows while 20 smau group Oh "or
SINNERS kindly clergyman with patent spirit
ord ,oeditative voice. expounds an eplSue Vi
paul. and by his benignant and simple manner
makes the solemnity Of the solemn place SUI
more impressive Ny thoughts however. ar
more with sinners than with saints IN mere
ford. Cor It is a memory Of Nell G"yhhe ah'
David Garrick. and not entirely the Ca'heuiai
that has iured me here; ard soon am s'ahuih'
In Widemsrsh-st and looking upon me rave
Inn. where Garrlck was born.--'he greats
comedian. perhaps the greatest actor IN ever
field. tina. ever nlumined the English stage.
is a. little brick baildins. upon corhe'' III
busy neighborhood. and it ia not in any way d's
tinc,ive. No doubt II has undergone chahse :
but I. was tavern when GarrlcKs paie"0
STAYED In Il and a tavern Il still remains. I'VE