Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-16
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
The Separate Waist Popular and Pretty as
- Ever.
From Corduroy and Flannel to Silk
md Lace and Always
Proper.
Written fer The Evening Star.

Written fer The Evening Star.
The tailor-made gown has only added TO
the demand for separate waists, and SO
from season to season the popularity of
the fancy bodice is assured by each new
turn Of Dame Fashions wheel
Separate waists are divided into two
classes, shirt waists for ordinary occa-
sions and outdoor sports and fancy waists
for the theater, little dinners ana all fes-
tivitieS of a minor nature. For visiting
gowns one is supposed to have a whole
costume, without The frivolity of a sepa-
rate waist, but as this may often consist
of a tailor-made coat and skirt, shirt
waist will be necessary with it, although
the coat is not supposed to be DOTTED while
making calls. Smart women are having
house gowns made of checked taffeta silk
or of cheviot, thus doing away with shirt
waists for indoor wear to some extent
The shirt waists made up for wear
this winter differ very slightly from last
summers models. They droop slightly over
the belt, as did those made late in Au-
gust; they nave smaller sleeves, which
stand up instead OF falling from the Shout
der: they have the same yoke, with two
points, which has been found to fit SO well,
and they are worn with white collars or
with fancy stocks, according to the taste
of the wearer.
The flannel shirt waist, which is SO
dainty in summer made of material light
In color, delicately striped, is another mat
ter when one sees it reduced to dark col
ors and heavier stuffs. Frankly. it is ugly.
Yet 1t Is very popular, and can be made
a very smart garment. Plaids are most
used, and are made with three wide bias
tuckS on each side of the front, slanIing
from shoulder toward waist line, or reliev-
ed by narrow tuckS below each shoulder.
But some of the best houses follow the
English model in making flannel shirt
waists. making the sleeve a little larger
than the French model for the season, and
SIMPLY full the flannel On the yoke at the
shoulder seams, putting oiaS band of
the flannel down the front for the studs,
and turning out garment which may be
very simple, but which is also clumsy and
generally unbecoming.
Velvet, velveteen and cordurov shirt
waists are quite as popular as though br and
lew, and the heaviness of the material
makes much trimming inadmissible. Plaid
velvet Is very becoming and soft, and may
be made either severe or dressy by a change
in the collar Corduroy waists are especial
ly well adapted for wear a bicycle and
yet are very becoming when worn with a
smart, tailor-made skirt of some gay plaid
This praise applies only to castor and gray
shades Of corduroy. In the darker shades
1t is so much like velvet velveteen tina.
1t makes little difference which material is
used for shirt waist. the effect will be
the same.
Tie silk shirt waists are legion and are
made with so many d ferent little tucks and
w
the line and scarcely knows where the silk
shirt waist leaves off and the separate bod-
ice-elaborate enough fer evening wear
begins. Taffetas of delicate shades of gray
or brown, showing designs of flowers and
leaves woven in like a brocade are very
lovely. Nothing prettier has been seen this
season. Plain taffetas in all colors are
worn they were last year. but generally
they are relieved by tucks rufes. Gay
plaids of soft silks, made up with bias eff
fects, are seen on every side, while the
Roman STRIP es, which babe fair to be most
popular of all, are seldom seen.
Stylish and Handy.
Separate waists for wear on ordinary oc-
casions are OF taffeta silk. ruffled and
tucked and trimmed deliberately, or Of soft
liberty velvet combined with silk Quite
fetching was ole on exhibition this week,
made of blue taffeta, which had pin stripes
of black running through it. The waist was
fastened on the left side and the beauty
came from the way in which the pin strips
had been made to show in the tiny tucks
which ran up and down the front, and in
the pleated, narrow ruffies which concealed
the hooks which fastened the bodice.
Yokes either narrow or wide, usually Of
white or cream satin. covered with en-
broidery or lace, are much worn. Half the
elaborate waists made are to have them,
if one can believe the signs of the season.
waist of black and white striped satin,
opening over yoke of tucked cream satin,
is very smart The model shown looked as
IL tight fitting waist, tucked from the top
of the neck to the waist line, with sleeves
also tucked the whole way, had first been
made, and then a loose, bloused, low,