New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-08-22
PARIS AND OUR "DOUANE"
QNAsPYN1 CoUrURIEREs BBRATB THE
= TARIFE-YANKEE DRESSMAK-
-. ERs SMILE,

AN 1NCREAsxp MARKET FOR GOWNS NOT MADE
ny sxw1Na oyRys UNDER PAUrER WAGES
We ADVANTAGES OF THE DINGHY LAW
q Paris, August H.
4 well Informed American women IN ra''s ea"no'
s...>,,. .vstr.a at New-york has thrown the
Sx~arA c.vturferea who seem TO have SUDDEN.
A>oorsA avarN that their business AZ eSore'"n'
ns&c~s Nn~y b. threatened, "Regarues' "a.s'"",
Ss,,A cets~ belle roee demand OF YOU eeu'' ! asH
r.. man mo- for Nv' Considering the faot Una.
-. .,uSr ana tri,nraiuss at tho manufacturers
kr,s,.a are about half less costly IN France Una"
K. n. American importer, and that madamc pays
4 rod third hess rent than her New-fork poo'o"
x cnieaso rfvaL and oniy three francs Z" Genus
n day to skilled sewers and tr'mmers ore ."'"~,
that perhaps she could. put s"e9Ce ~ 0''""' "
Nh> answer expected.
.S1f oovrse> with the danes OF the srande mohue'
m. upra cs,-tAts skiiful fahrieator or rtuns ana
tn~craeA ut viii make little difference 'o' ."..
must b well attircd, whatever the cost l aunl.'
frankly that Americans, by our help ana 'he'r ow'
NEouderful tsste and style. are to-day tho pest
har.>ea x,amen Of the world, But under these con-
\atious can this prestige endure? No; II IS ho' 'os
NAs Nine Astor or the Nine. Nanderp'H '""'
Aecsr> but for the others with less OF Purse-"ias
u dlstinxue. 81 belle. who come to me ea'h s"'"e
and say, Madame. have only m'seraoie '"ou-
ssand dollars to expend my toilet, and what can
csou do for me- Mon Dieu.' have said. 1t VIII
ounce for only two. three. perhaps four ropes'
madame And then ! have made II hve or eve"
nix. And even then. did ask but the word Oh my
good clients. and could they not pay wheh 'ney
chose. But now. how can they face the h"soaHo
at the douane?'
At q largo establishment where they depend Tor
their summer business on tho American dress
makers and shops that import large quantities OF
Kowus to serve models the superintendent said;
1--WE have hurried along our next seasons moceis
that We might AL the orders Of our regular clients
beforc the bill became law, but during August
which Is our best month. we expect our American
orders amount to much less than previously.
GOOD FOR AMERICAN DRESSMAKERS.
Chance proyided a chat a few hours afterward
with well-known Fifih-ave. drsssmaker. who
said: My dealers here seem very much excited
over the bill and very plying in their attitude
toward me. but am far from sure that accept
their point Of view. 1t is not a question or politics
with me, for l know nothing OF economic subjects
beyond my own business: but that is undoubtedly
10 be benefited by tho clause preventing women
importing what has been termed personal ward
robe. Our customers bring home trunkfuls or
Paris gowns every summer only to be dissaushen
with them. All French gowns are fitted In hurr!
and scrambled together. and We are expected 10
make them 1T to wear. over and over again
have determined TO refuse to touch an imported
gown. and of course never do handle one that mas
been at all worm but it IS hard to refuse regular
client. II Is always the same story; never. never
again will they buy another gown abroad; but each
summer comes the same boatload of thrown
together trash. II gowns were cheaper In Paris, |
would not so much blame them; but for the retail
customer they are not. and when the price foi
femodeng the gown and freight is PAID ii
amounts TO moro than exactly the same gown
would cost at home. Moreover. they often buy What
are really last seasons models and imagine for
q while that supposed bargain is lie dernier cri'
and again they are mortified 10 discover That what
they bought as an exclusive design Is owned by
half their friends. 1t IS my business not TO make
mistakes Of that kind. and not only do | go to
Paris and Vienna every year, but receive monthly
udyices from both places
AMERICAN SILKS THE BEST.
Another American dressmaker not only agreed
with all this. but presented another view Of the
subject. II come abroad every summer, not be-
cause feel the need of it, but because my GUS
ton, srs demand that I shall do Practically,
quiet rest would prepare me much better for the
coming season. and have often felt tempted TO
let the steamer go. with my name on the passen-
ger list and give myself the time TO devise my
own French models in the seclusion OF my deserted
workshop. ! confident that could do better.