The Portland daily press., 1897-08-07

poet Burns preferred? "Of course Won
know" she said, addressing us non
chalantly, Hthat Burns was in love with
Highland Mary Queen of Scots; it is such
a pity they could not have been mar
ried!' and she gave sympathetic sigh.
II don't know what / should have done
on this trip" she continued, eff it hadn +
been for those Stoddard lectures last win
ter" Mentally bordering if many tourists
were thus afflicted, we continued our
sightseeing.
While driving through Canonsgate we
| noticed that the jewellers on both sides of
the street had flung their banners to the
outer wall'' in the shape of the weeks
| washing. Poles were thrust through the
open windows of the different stories, and
| for the entire length of the way waved
row on row Of fiuttering signals, while
children swarmed IN every doorway OF
all the sights Of Edinburgh, the one
| which we recall with greatest satisfac-
ton is "The CASTLE" Standing as it has
| for ages on that lofty massive rock, look
ing down on broad Princess street, with
| its graceful monument to Scott, its build
| ing after building of stone and marble,
what city can produce its like? AS we
SO named because she mapped the entire
way through the Trossachs, exclaimed
9 Are you really going to Dryburgh Alb
hey There's Melrose and one ruin is just
the same as another" With feelings too
deep for utterance, we merely answered
Eyes" lone ruin like another!" we re-
peated to ourselves Indignantly; could we
exquisite carvings of curly kale and this
ties, its symbolical window of the Cruel
fixion, with Dryburgh Abbey where
Scott Is buried wholly lacking the orna-
mentation of the first, yet surprising it,
we think, in charm of foliage and flower
3d. 49,
we saw about the Abbey grounds, be-
seeching visitors not to carve their names
on the ancient tombs, were of course in
tended for other nationalities than ours.
No American, we are morally certain,
would ever be guilty of such an act of
vandalism. We were equally positive we
were not concerned with the following
restriotion-' Picnic parties absolutely
forbidden in the graveyard
We found 1t hard to leave the "banks
and braes" of Scotland, and even Cam
bridge, with its broad college walks,
shaded by many elins, its noted build
ings. among them grand Kings Chapel,
could scarcely compensate us for making
SO hurried visit to the North. It was
while at Cambridge we recalled friend S
experience. A story of mutual misunder-
standing, which serves we'll to illustrate
American courtesy and fine feeling. A
tourist, personal acquaintance, while
looking at the curios of old Cambridge,
| saw in one case some paper money of the
United States, In his Baedecker, it SO
happened, he had momentarily placed a
twenty dollar bill. The man in charge, a
thorough gentleman and student, whose
pride In the collection was unmistakable,
explaining different currencies, at length
came to the bills which our friend had
previously noticed. "We have only the
low values ones-twos and fves, - he said,
To,
one, which, by the way, I've never seen"
Is that sop was our friends rejoinder,
"here is one," drawing forth the twenty,
merely for inspection, without the re-
hottest intention Of making donation.
.'Thank you! thank you very much in
deed" were the unexpected words, in
joyous tones. I shall be delighted to add
1t to the collectiono;" and before our
friend with the guide book had fairly
grasped the situation the crisp new bill
was resting placidly beside it's fellows of
less value. 1t is with pride and pleasure
we make known tale which testifies
most forcibly to a generous kindly ma
ture, which could better bear pecuniary
loss than infiict one single moment of
embarrassment and disappointment even
upon stranger.
Seeing three Cathedrals in as many
days made us most devoutly wish we had
been reared on "Rchitecture' as we'll
as Reading, Riting and Rithmetic."
For our lack of knowledge, however, con-
corning Norman, EARLY English and later
Gothic styles, we could in some measure
compensate by reverential admiration.
Certain travel-wOrn tourists have foretold
that in q month no power on earth can
induce us to look through even the door
ways of the multiplicity of cathedrals
that will fall to our appointed lot as
stght-seers. All we can answer is, now
we are eager for more, and SO far each one
has. in our mind, its distinct individual
ity. The castle and cathedral of Durham.
"haf house of God, half castle 'gainst
the Scot how high they stand on that
bold rocky precipice, whose hoary side
bearing all shades of green, with the river
feet instantaneous Impression. Inside
the walls, the heavy pillars with their
varied marking, the blending of the
earlier and later styles SO clearly mani
fest even to our sense, these cannot be
forgotten. York has it's own peculiar
charm; quiet as all cathedral towns. our
Sunday there seemed like a benediction.
We walked slowly to the Minister, our
S Its SO near the lectern and pulpit that
service and sermon were new delight.
1t did indeed seem good for us to be
there, and rested and refreshed in mind
and body we turned away, pausing beside
the great stained window, through which
oAo nuu Ildu6 qulVofluS Pauhe VI llguu
from side to side above our heads. "This
is my noblest work. the record reads of
one, who lying on his back, suspended
high in air, carved day by day the figure
of the gentle Virgin, and as we gazed far
up those tender eyes looked down, and
seemed to say, ''He labored long for
love-" "Thereii there it isi'' we cried,
with one accord, as we drew near to Lin
coin. We had been looking eagerly from
our railway carriage window for sight
of the cathedarl, and before the city came
into view we saw the hill crowned with
its large carved tower, and bearing small
Ter ones on either side. We walked about
it later lost in wonder, thinking of the
years on years of patient toll that
chiselled out of senseless stone those tiny
leaves, those noble mullioned windows;
and then we stood silent by ourselves to
fix in mind the lofty arches, the sculp-
tured forms that make 'the Angel
Choir" In many hidden place, in
many secret corner of those old cathe-
drals, the choicest carvings lie. Those
priests and laymen worked for love of
Christ and labored not as unto man, but
unto God