Evening star., 1897-06-12
FOR UP-TO-DATE WOMEN
Cutting Down the Sleeves of Last Years
Shirt Waists.
New Ones Are OF Thinner Material
With Detachable COllars-The
Proper Thing fn Ties.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star =
The up-to-date woman with the moderate
| income has been struggling with ner last
| summers wardrobe. and has emerged tri-
rmphant, but exhausted, after some ex-
cessfNely disaereeable hours. To cut the
| collar of last years shirt waist, make a
buttohhole in the collar band and wear the
latest collar and tie is easy matter.
But when 1t comes to ripping out a starch
ed sleeve and taking eff a starchcd cuff,
life assumes serious aspect. 1t must be
Gcne, however. If one would be strictly en-
regle. The shirt waist sleeve is cut in one
piece, and after taking it out has been ac-
complshed it is easy to cut it off at the
top and a little at the sides, taking care
to slope it properly and 10 make II no
smaller at the cuff end. Then it must be
tucked into the CLn with three tucks in
stead of being gathered. The difficult mat
ter of putting The cuff on comes next, and
1t is wiser to soak the starch out of this
obstreperous piece of In en- before attempt-
ing IL. when all this is accomplished The
waist may be worn with a proud conscious
ness on the part of the wearer that she Is
not behind the times.
There is no erticle of dress which re-
quires more attention than the shirt waist,
II one does not wish to look like a dowdy.
The ordinary dumpy garment, with untidy
belt and vague tie, is enough to make tho
useful garment. Properly made and worn,
however, they are a delight and give a look
of trimness and neatIess to most women.
This year shirt waists are made of thin
ner materials Organdies. lawns and dim
tiles vie in favor with each other. The de-
tachable collar of white linen is worn in
almost every case, and the favorite tie Is
OF black satin, tied by the wearer. as the
edict against made ties for women was is
sued some time ago. nhis black satin tie
is complicated affair, as it must go twice
around the collar before tying. Satin rib
bon, doubie-faced md an inch and three
quarters wide will be found more salts.
factory than the made tie. and not ex-
pensive.
Collars and Ties.
With the new Roman-stripe silk shirt
waists a piece of the material is made into
a scarf and worn as a four-in-hand. With
shirt waists of washable material a tie to
match the ribbon in the hat is often worn.
We are going back to the old days of
matching things" In spite of the giaring
combinations to be met with on the streets.
The hunting stock is much In favor for
bicycling, golf or travelling wear. AS or
dinarfly tied it gives the neck al unfinished
look. But an Englishman assures me that
carefully and neatly tied they can be SO
worn that the absence of a stin linen collar
is not detected.
The favorite collar Is very high, with a
narrow band turned over at the top. This
band does not meet In the back. There are
cuffs TO match those collars and many Of
the shirt waists are made with detach-
able cuffs. but q stiil more chic looking ef-
feet Is to have cuffs OF the same material
as the waist. not starched, but soft, and
turned back carelessly. This - Q particular.
ly fetching effect In dimity.
The daintiest collars are q modification
of the round. embroidered ones worn last
winter over the necks Of winter GOWNS
This spring they have q soft band Of lawn
TO 30 inside the dress or ribbon collar, OUT
side there are two narrow pieces Of em-
broidered null. nike the turned-ovcr linen
collars but 90 much softer and more femi-
nine. They are designed to be worn over
high. plain ribbon collars or stocks. having
small made bow in front. All bows, By
the way. have shifted from the back Of the
collar to the front OF II. -
Another very fetching collar. and exceed.
tng1y smart also. 10 q narrow knife pleat-
ing Of lawn falling over the stock or high
collar. This IL finished by an enorJnoug
bow Of null. with knife-pleatei ends. which
takes up large part Of the front Of the
cheEt.
Marrow girdles Of silver or gold links,
studded with precious stones. are often
worn with silk waists. but the cotton shirt
waist should have plain leather bo14
either white or Of teathsr ooloes1 - Ua&ea
the eown.