The evening times., 1897-12-22
uRLuKT GOWNS
FOR WINTER
Elaborate Stitching a Feature
of the Newest Dresses.
Chinchilla Is Fashionable. But Fox
Is Now the FavOrite Fur Of FASH
iOnahle Folks.

| Shirfeu velvet Is one OF the latest effects
in the elaborate stitchery which just NOW
| seems to lie 4 feature of the newest and
most expensive gowns. A visiting dress
which p}ay be said to illustrate the most
uE-to.date fashion, is OF black velvet; the
skirt has SIX rows OF shirring, beginning
at the waist ard reac hing half way to the
knees, the rest OF the fullncss having the
effect Of a deep flounce. The sleevea have
| diagonal si.iIIing from the shoulder % the
| waist.
The bodice, being smoot hly fitting
blouse cut down from the right siGe OF the
| neck for several inches, then straight across
| to the left side, and then down to the waist
on the other side OF the blouse, is cut
straight from the left shoulder diagonally
| to the waist, thus leaving a square on the.
left side OF the beck. and q strip to thewaist
showing the white satin, which forms an
underlining, over which the velvet blouse
is fitted and which also shows through the
cut-worE which forms, with embroidery.
an elabeIate pattern over the corsage.
Around the Eeck is a large, fluffy collar
of ehnchilla and a muff of the same com.
pletes this elegant costume. ChinchiIla
is st i'll cpnsiiered fashionable although :il.,
fox ist ,favnrite fur at present hite fox.
silver &C.. blue fox, and last, but not
least, black fox, the latter being the rarest
and consequently the most expensive and
desira bic.
Charming, indeed, are the Marie An
toinette fichus composed entirely OF white
ostrich feathers: these CONSIST Of feather
boa. about a couple OF yards long, to
which is fastened graduated feathers.
forminc u cape in the back and a pelerine
in front. ending at the waist. Lined with
colored silks, these are desirable wraps
for the opera, or any full-dress function
where draughts are possible and protection
is required.
A newly imported dinner gown of great
elegance is a miroir velvet, changing in
color from. Eauve to cream. The skirt Is
trimmed with an insertion. put on zen red
incote," Of .cream-colored mousseline de
sole. nearly covered with incrustations
of black chantilly. embroidered with jet.
The entire front of the low nec,sed cor sageis
covered with blouse-like plastron Of the
cream nuesseline de sole. under the Jet
embroidered black chantilly, and is eds ged
all around with knife pleated ruffle Of
rOse-colnred taffeta, which ends in a deep
pleating OF iiiaIye mousse eline de sole, which
material also forms the sleeves. The back
is conpos ed of a single piece Of the chan
tiily, covered with tie cream mousseline
The plissc ruffie forms a sort Of cape over
the velvet, witch is cut in princess form.
For u dtni:- ,.let nothing could be more
charming than a gown worn recently by a
weli-knovn fashionable woman at the
coming-o out reception OF her daughter. 1t
is OF violet velvet, made half princess form,
that is t. say. the back and front are
princess, TO about six inches below the
waist in front, where thr goods are cut off.
and skirt front OF violet satin. about
shade lighter than the velvet, is gath
cred on to the deep yoke. this is trimmed
with three horizontal rows OF white chan
tilly Insertion. of graduated width ms, the
upper one being three inches, the second
four inches! tand the third five inches
wide. These are put on in the cent ? T OF the
skirt, abSet three inches apart. Where the
satin joins the velvet there is hea ding of
Chenille passementerie. This fIounce like
front extends around the hips, and is
scanned into the back breadths of velvet.
which are cut il train. The neck is cut
and over the princess bodice, is draped a
muslin fichu OF white chiffon. with full.
soft folds, snd finished with a knife
pleated ruffle. edged with chantilly. The
sleeves are Of velvet. long and tight, witt
the usual slight fullness at the top.
most gracious and dignified toilet, and ex-
ceedingiy becoming.
\ walking dress, which has great dis
tinction OF st yle. is made of dark blue cloth.
On the left side OF the front breadth
there is a graduated panel, eight inches
broad at the bottom. and about two at
the top extending from the waist to the hem
of the skirt. Oh which is an embroider I'll
and applied design of green satiulily leaves.
with the strras and outlines In silk. Start
Ing from iuader this. in the center OF the
front edge are three rows or black zibeline
fur. which proceed diagonaHy across the
front breadth. and gradually reach the
bottom. where they continue at equal dis
of the panel. where they, too, disappear
under the seam. The waist is a blouse
opening in an Inverted v over a chemisette
of green satin. the edges or the blouse bein,
trimmed with embroidery to match that
on the paEel the sleeves have epaulets
of the CLOTH edged with the fur over puffs
of greeh s1tin; the rest tight-ritting, with
cuffs edged with fur extending over the
hands. The belt and collar are of white
satin. To &C with this costume there is
a charming toque from Rebony. OF green
velvet, Trimmed with a magnificent bird
of paradise.