The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-01-13

anybody any harm. S~elf-denial and
cast-iron principles are essential ele-
rnents in the formation Of d good moth
er; and, as she Is the very best thing
on earth, the game Is always worth the
candle.
without question the French people
are the best aressmakers in the world
writes Mary Katharine Toward in the
January "Woman's Home Companion"
Not because they are By nature any
more capable or smarter thar American
women. but because they make a study
of their profession, materials n style,
and above all, they study zach indi-
vidual customer, at the same time TAX
ing as much pains with the fitting, de-
signing and making Of Inexpensive ma
terials as with fabrics of greater value.
THE American ~dressmaker can by
study. and study alone, attain that high
point of perfection in her art to which
the French have risen. But she must
cultivate originality. Individuality. and
encourage the creative faculties which
most persons possess to some extent in
one line or another. No one can take
a course of Instruction in dressmaking,
and at the end of a certain time declare
herself entirely finished and through
with study. for as long as we have fash
ions so will we have changes in styles
of fabrics and methods of making wear
ing apparel which present constant OPP
~portunity for study. The writer is never
through with study: the doctor is on
the constant ookou for new remedies
49, f,aat-,Anf re <hA x,arfnr.S f5iSAa sec 70
which human flesh is heir, and the law
yer studies law as long as he practices.
ssThen, why should not the dressmaker
study, when her calling is subject to
more frequent changes than ny other
art or profession? She caters to the
tastes and whims of more people than
perhaps any other class OF bread-Wln-
ners, unless it be those who cater TO the
exactions n needs of the inner man.
French dressmakers cannot teach the
dressmakers of our own country y
thing about neat and good sewing. for
right here in America.
But the French woman studies each
Individual customer-her face, her figure,
complexion. carriage and general air
then dresses her with consistency, while
ktiG zAtieflIdA QISSSlfidhCl NOO lI&&
builds a gown to look stylish and pref
ty when on the dummy, but which, alas!
loses its effect entirely when put on
the woman whose style may be just the
reverse of that demanded by the gown.
"A d~ressmaker to be successful must
study the laws of beauty and style in
dress. the adaptation of certain ideas to
certain figures, then she has the secret
- arfss4y1 roer-,otrI~- Aar, a.
adapt the prevailing styles, with neces-
sary alterations, 70 your customer, and
do not try 10 bring your subject to the
styles in vogue. Do not copy strictly
the details shown in the fashion plate,
but take that for your guide as to the
leading thought in style, then modify or
may demand.
Happy is the woman who is possessed
a store of old lacei
The present ashions demand its lib
eral use, and it transforms an ordinary
or even a dowdy costurne into an ele-
CANT one. Brussels and Honiton APP
piique, the needle-run laces that our
grandmother worked, fine Mechlin, Point
Anglais. the rare old Rose Point, Flan-
ders. Spanish and Italian Point, made SO
often by the r~ecinses to deck the beauties
remaining still IN the world-all these are
being worn.
The lighter makes form aigrettes at
the side of toques. mingle with sable and
other furs on mantles and muffs. and
are literally displayed on the fronts of
bodices. But those Who love good~lac
from an artistic point of view will hear
with regret Of the latest adaptation of
some of the Flemish laces that are SO
fine they VIII hardly stand the insertion
of a needle and are among the most per
ishable of the lace heirlooms of old DAYS.
notwithstanding they are now laid on
rich brocades-the thicker portion of the
pattern outlined with stftchery in bold
thread, the thinner spangled with lia-
nonds, while here and there an applique
OF velvet is overlaid on the prominent
portions of the design.
This is used for the fronts of bodices. 4
and is ~singuiarly beautiful; but the lace
thus employed is destroyed forever.
For winter evening cloaks, fur makes
the most delightful of all trimmings,
and 1 recently saw a most exquisite
evening mantle with a trimming of white
Thibet goat, which is well worth describ-
ing, as it is especially typical of tie
moda of the moment. The material en-
ployed was a very beautiful floral bro
cade, with sprays of loose-leaved pink
roses and p~ale-green foliage scattered
over a kind of shot opalescent back
ground, which seemed TO be pink and
green in some lights, and in others pal
est heliotrope family shot with gold.
The mantle was very wide and fun.
covering the gown beneath completely,
and the deep sling sleeves were quite
novel, giving ample space for the sleeves
of an evening gown, and yet being cut
in such a way hat they kept the arms
perfectly warm. They were lined with
white fox, the same dainty fur being
used to line the whole Of the mantle, |
while the deep roll collar was OF white
Thibet goat. Wide bands of white
Thibet also trimmed the front Of this
cloak, reaching like two long
stoles from throat to feet.
Apropos of matters royal, says a writ
er in the Ladies' Pictorial, I happened
the other day upon a quaint little BIT
of information which was news to me.
and will. l doubt not, be news to many
Of my readers. Louis, King of Hum
gary in the fifteenth century. died ana