The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-11-30
ideas for dWnnaen

A cleverly dressed woman confided in
me yesterday. Lik all women l am 60
ing to tell.
Her gowns are faultlessly cut, and they
are also faultlessly trimmed. This COM
bination takes money, and yet she does
pay the price for this is her secret.
AT least, it was hers. 1t is now mine
and soon will be yours. She has the
gown made, and then she trims it.
In order TO compass about an elaborate
up-to-date gown. and TO avoid the great
expenditure which, in the ordinary way
It would entail, her excellent plan Is
to nave a dress very well and very
plainly made. and to trim 1t at home, just
as one would a skeleton hat.
Many women have q distinct talent for
detail for whom the construction of a
complete costume would be a most reck-
less undertaking. In having the frock
made it is necessary to have some def
mite end in view.
Say she wants-as she did-a cloth
gown with applied designs OF velvet-a
very new idea.
When the gown arrives at home, fitting
and hanging satisfactorily. she gets
seine prettily contrasting colored velvet
or velveteen and cut out some pretty
foliaGe-like design and embroider 1t on
with silk all around the edges. Say
her dress is black, the design either in
light tulip-leaf green velveteen. in or
ange or in red would look splendid; and
a yet more elaborate effect would be OBJ
tanned by ~studding the leaves with jet.
The appearance will be that of a very
expensive gown.
Further to add to its attractiveness
for outdoor wear, clever fingers could
fashion of lace some fur tails and a
paste buckle, a particular smart cravat.
The same plan can be practiced With
regard to, every style of gown at present
in vogue, only it must be made with a
view to its ultimate home decoration.
This can also be carried out with APP
pllqued designs with Moorish and guipure
lace, beaded, jetted or tinsel-wrought. .
The couturiere will probably regard a
customer adopting this plan as a person.
of peculiar taste until she discover the
plot, when she will be divided between
annoyance and admiration. The taste
for fancy work which so many women
possess in so large degree might be util-
lied in this way for their own dress.
"
know a woman who always en-
broiders the crowns of her own bon
nets, and who makes a very high and
mighty miliiner utilize them In copying
her own models at a considerably abated
price for this enterprising customer.
/ know another woman who can braid
beautifully.
rT~srAA she - r7nf hoxyn lima or In
~elination to follow the close, elaborate
designs of expensive gowns. I believe
she couldn't do that especial trick the
stand on edge. Neither of these, how
ever, is necessary. There are many
striking designs in broad. fat work that
are effective and fashionable.
She saves the ~tailor's extra $40 tor
doing this, and 1t looks equally well with
his work.
a gown to suit the virtues and vices of
their own anatomy far better Than a
ostume It would take SIS off their
gowns If they would take the time to
do I'll
This advice is not for every oma
If 1t was, the ~costurners would have all
reason to disapprove of me. 1t is only for
the women who can do this thing and
have the time to donit
b.
ssTne dominant note of fashion In the
matter Of Jackets and coats is without
doubt the bleusy effects, which in many
garments appear in both back and front"
writes Mary Katharine owar IN
December "woman's Home Companion"
AT the present moment the blouse is the
most conspicuous feature of fashion in
any kind of a waist or jacket, be 1t for
Indoor or outdoor wear
ssYet the rage for the blouse has by
NO means killed the tisht-itting coat.
Women who must make one gown do for
many occasions adhere to the close-htting
tailor-made coat for a w-alking-costume
and have a fancy b1ouse-front with collar
attached. which is worn for dressy day
light affairs where the bonnie is not re-
moved. In most cases a turnover cuff is
made to match, and this transforms the
coat into quite another garment, making
1t quite dressy enough to wear with skirts
OF fancy weave or silken texture. These
fronts may. be made of tinsel or jeweled
trimmings combined with chiffon or lace,
jet, lace. and velvet, or white satin pro-
fusely trimmed with quite creamy and
heavy lace frightened with narrow color
ed or jet passementerie.
Goats single or double breasted are
equality a la mode and made of them
are decidedly longer than they have been.
With allSoutdeor garments the very high
collar is c6nspicuousiy in evidence, which
to the short-neoked woman is a high and
formidable wall to scale. Indeed. in dress
as we'll as in mantle and coats there is a
decided favoring of the Medici collar.
"Colored jackets are having quite a rum,
showing green, violet, red, blue, tan and
gray, though in most cases they are toned
down with fur or black braid, and often
both. It is quite as usual to see the violet
coat with a green skirt. or vice versa. as
TO see it worn with a black skirt. Gray
coats are fashionable either en- costume
much worn with black skirts that are not
tailor-made. A fancifully trimmed skirt,
for some reason or other, looks better
with a light Jacket where skirt and coat
are not of the same color and material.
There are Elton coats. Russian coats.
little coats to the waist-line with big cape
sleeves, long coats to the foot of the gown
and others that reach 70 the knees. each
of which is shown as new and good style,
and each finds a purchaser. All this goes
to prove that one can more easily be in
fashion than out of 1t"