The herald., 1897-06-27
This Popular Material on
Every Occasion
LONG CL0AKS AGAIN IN FAVOR
MUST BE VERY SUMMERY AND
OF LIGHT MATERIAL
Bows Of Hair Are to Be Worn-The
Return to Ancient Styles in
Coiffures-New Hats

no question about muslin being "the
thing" 1t is the idol of the day. Spotted
and sprigged and plain, in light and dark
colors, in every imaginable variety Of
quality and pattern, muslin is the ma
terial Of the season. In delicate shades
for the maid and more sornbre ones for
the matron. it suits all ages and COM
plexions.
We are going to wear it everywhere,
too. For morning gowns, we have it In
cambria designs, simply made, so that
acquaintance with the laundry will not
be too difficult or too destructive. Moth
ing could be prettier or more seasonable
than this same muslin, daintily made up
with lace and ribbons, for afternoons.
While for dress wear, made up over
glace silk, it Is not only beautiful but
presents very elegant appearance, and
is quite nice enough for any ordinary
occasion.
I am afraid we too often overlook our
younger generation in our desire to in
| terest their elders, but here at least is
one gown especially intended for young
girl 1t is made of blue and white mus
lin, the pattern consisting of undulating
lines of white on a pale blue ground.
The bodice is simplicity itself, being Of
the ordinary blouse variety. Over this
| Is bolero of coarse white Irish lace, cut
| a little square at the throat, hanging in
square tabs, and outlined with a littla
frilling Of plain white muslin. The
sleeves are tight fitting, widening trif1e
at the top, and are trimmed with lace at
the hand. The skirt Is plain, trimmed
with aounce of the material headed by
a rather full ruching, also Of plain white.
The belt is of white watered ribbon
loosely tied in bow at one side, the
ends falling almost to the bottom Of the
skirt.
The reason for the immense and in
creasing demand for the finer quality
of muslin is obvious, when we consider
its wonderful utility. One Of the very
prettiest and most elegant tea gowns
I saw was made Of this same popular
material. The ground was pure white,
with wavy lines of Nile green upon it,
varied at intervals with little bouquets
of pink roses. This was mounted over
rose pink glace silk, and trimmed with
frills of pale pink chiffon killed. The
skirt was Joined on to the waist, the
bodice overhanging back and front.
Around the waist, forming the belt, was
q lace sash with long ends, and around
the shoulders a lace collar was crossed
on the bust. In this particular case, thu
lace was that known as duchesse, but
| less expensive variety could be made
effective.
The idea of wearing long cloaks in
summer is certainly brand new, but we
are going to wear them just the same,
| ;o1J of k6o
ion says so, and 1t is case Of she speaks
and we obey. This season has seen 80
many remarkable things and such strik-
ing novelties that nothing can surprise
us now. Most Of the new long wraps ara
very light in weight, and really, when
one comes to think Of it, there are many
summer evenings along the sea coast
when a long and also warm cloak 10
not to be despised. The most stylish and
altogether fetching one that have seen
is Of black satin covered with jet SPAN
giles and arranged in the new sun pleat-
ing, unlined Of course. The yoke is en-
broidered with jet sequins and finished
with full frill of embroidered chiffon
about twelve inches deep. 1t has full
sun pleated sleeves, trimmed with two
rows Of black chiffon ruching, which
hat is of black chiffon, killed, and trim
med with jet sequins and black ostrich
feathers.
Among other novelties the startling
change which Is about to descend upon
US in the matter Of coiffures is not the
least remarkable. We have borrowed
our fashions this year from almost all
sources, but chiefly from the early days
| oF fha G, art n in 1vr
from those good old days that the revival
of bows of hair has come back to US.
The loops generally stand upright, but
may lie more fatty. We hear something
about side curls, but this is only rumor
as yet. It is, however, a fact that jew
els looped over the hair will be worn
again, just as they used to be, only they
do not hang over the forehead, but are
set further back on the head.
The summer girl must on no account
be neglected, and so we have some new
hats especially for her to wear in the
country or at the seaside. They are OF
plaid straw, or rather of colored straw
plated so as to form a plaid. They
have moderate brims and rather high
crowns, and are generally trimmed with
tartan ribbon. They are quite novel and
particularly stylish. Another novelty
was Louis XXI hat Of grey straw. with
the brim turned up. 1t was trimmed with
a twist of black and white tulle, with a
large black and white bird set directly
in front.
We all know how very convenient 10
is to have some dressy trifle or other
with which to make plain bodice bit
smart ON occasions. Here Is something
which all can have, and which answers
the purpose to perfection. 1t appears
to be simply piece of yellow ribbon
trimmed with lace, but when on it COM
pletely dresses the bodice. 1t forms
high ruff at the back by means of the
lace and black embroidery, and falls
down the front in straight ends trimme0
i'm the same way. Another clever ide2
for neckwear is an ecru lace scarf which
comes from the back around the neck
and falls in front. Over the shoulders
are two large armholes formed Of q
couple of straps of ribbon, which are
fully trimmed with lace. This arrange
men is very ingenious and gives dressy
appearance to the plainest bodice. 1t
is slightly wired on the shoulders and
forms itself into square In front.
It is rather too early yet for us to de-
termine whether white shoes for walk
ing will be as popular this summer -
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