Orange County observer. [volume] (Hillsborough, N.C.) 1880-1918, 1897-03-04

- "ooAt t'NNA o'ci, ~ prevent BulPplDg
seas, with vanished planks, crossed at
the top with little crovning rails OF
gilt carving, very dainty and very
smart. The cradle where / laid nv
Oack AGAINST where the coxswaln would
be seated III an American gig, was
lined with red cushions and white
lamb skins.
There were two boatmen, because
che Sweet Waters where we were to
land, was far up the Bosphorus. and
1t was .tolerably hard wori5, even for
| them, brawny and accustomed to row
ing as they were.
Antonio, nv scoundrcl Of a guide,
held forth on the white minarets look
ing ghostllke II the moonlight and on
| the dark cypress trees throwing their
heavy shaking shadows athwart the
| phosphorescent water. He bade me
! observe hoa the sa;queiee (bontmap)
fastens his oars by leather loop to
peg on the side OF tho boat, which had
no rowlocks-a simple plan, that pre-
vents their ever being lost, unless they
break in some OF the wnirllng and I'M.
pctuous currents ot the Bosphorus.
/ Every tine | looked the boatmcn
! laughed with all their teeth. aud said,
aiiirmatiyely, ''Bono, Johnny, upon
which |. called out authOrItatlvelv
"Chupukn (luick, quickly and OF
which they invariably replied by say
ing. nawash, yawash.' meaning,
"No hurry, all in good time.
Antonio, as we progressed, gradu-
ally transferred his conversation from
myself to the boatmen. At that time
| knew very little of their swcet-sound- d.
jargon, ana naturally feeling unlnter-
estcd, / closed my eyes and sank into
q rcverc, to be arouse thereirom by
one Of the boatmen using q Turkish
phrase. TIE meaning of which was
known to me, III tones Of the deepest
disgust. Their ticrse and furtive
Chances, together with the frequent
use OF that one phrase, which might
be translated thus: "Dog OF an inf
dell confirmed q sudden suspicion
tina: | was in a serious scrape. [ was
80 seated that, although nay face was
not seer by them, could discern their
features and gestures plainly.
"Channkn' - [ cried lmperiouslv,
knowing that it is generally best to
vawash !" returned the boatmen de-
liantly.
"No hurry. sarc,' said Antonio,
lighting his chiboul1 ana Dailing away
complacently.
How regrette having left the Pera
Hotel at that unsecmly hour to see a
parcel Of Circas-lan ragamu.1ins, who
were perhaps not worth seeing! How
roundIy | swore that, if it were per-
mitted me to issue scatheless from that
scrape, I would never be out again
after dark III Turkey. Past the Maiden S
Tower, sort Of legendary lighthouse
that stands on a rock at the entrance
OF the Golden Horn, opposite Scutarl !;
past long lines of vessels and rows OF
dark red woo len houses with broad
brlmnel flat roofs, and cellar-llle
boat houses; past plane trees and cv
, presses, silent c4ilues and coffee
houses, and here and there o dread
lump OF carrion, bobbing like float
IN he moonlight, swollen ami horrible
we reached at last the Sweet Water
meadows, where the caiaues were
gatherc thicl. rs carriages round the
door OF the I1eatre Erancais.
had mind to maze those two
, viilnIaous boatnen row me back again,
because as We were near one OF the
Sultau's tInsclly Italian palaces,
neither tAcv nor the e'>daciou>
Albanian dare attempt violence Just
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