The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1897-11-26
FOR FEMININE READERS
THE TEA GOWN ONE OF THE MOST
BECOMING OF WoMEN's GARMENTS.
Economy That May Make Bad Inn
preston ON Observation-Disclosures
ing an Art-Bits of NeedIewOrk.


reposeful and graceful tea gown. Most
women know the absolute comfort and sat-
isfaction of its easy classic folds, which
hide defects and accentuate graceful out
lines. Although elegant in effect these
gowns are not necessarily expensive, and
can easily and tastefully be made from the
spoiIs of the seasons sales" The gown is
also within the creative powers of an ord-
narily intelligent dressmaker engaged by
the day. The most satisfactory model is
that with princess back and straight
fronts falling in folds from the shoulders.
AT each side of this front the gown fits
the figure easily and smoothly, but it is
not tight. There are women who dislike the
dress, and if they so far unbend as to wear
it. they have it made of some gloomy ma
terial, usually black or zinc-colored cash
mere, so as not to look too cheerful or gay
in 1T. They thus let the best opportunity
they ever have of being artistically and
charmingly dressed pass them, by adopting
material that should really be reserved
for lenten or for ''half mourning" uses,
and forego all the lovely and poetic mater
ials that are now worn even by the mothers
in Israel. While sixty looks ridiculous in
the hues and habiliments of sweet sixteen,
it is well to understand that there are in
these latter days very beautiful and very
appropriate colbrs and clothes for matrons
as well as for maids
when doctors disagree, who shall de-
cider When Partisan autocrats in matters
of dress take decidedly opposite stands
among themselves what shall their satel-
lites do but watch and wait, scissors in
hand, until decisions are finally made and
the fiat goes forth, which shall settle the
controversies for a season at least, and
ease the minds of waiting priests and
priestesses of fashion on both sides of the
water? bloodless war has been waging
for quite a while in some of the great
houses of Paris over certain details of dress
and as neither of the famed powers seems
likely to yield it may come to pass that the
various deVOteeS of each special house may
in turn have their followers who shall be
guided and governed entirely by decisions
rendered officially We may thus behold
during the coming season the very unusual
sight at fashionable gatherings of cham
pionS of the great Monsieur X, of Paris,
wearing sleeves gufltless of ruff puff, or
any drapery from wrist to shoulder. and
devotees of the celebrated Monsieur H., of
Paris, with sleeves decorated with ali sorts
of frills, rills and ct eeteras. Then again we
may behold a disciple of the famed house
of A. SecOnding the masters decision that
the bolero, Elton, the Hussar. and all the
other host of chic and charming little
jackets that have added such style to the
toilet feminine are moi to pass into innocu-
Gus desuetude, but are to flourish anew
over every sort of street gown, house gown
and dress toilet, for one season longer to
say the least Close beside her we may be-
hold follower of the noted establishment
of B., with greatly heightened coat and Sc
we're tailor skirt, minus frill or furbeow
looking askance at her stylish neighbor of
equally high social standing whose skirt
rlnnoS trimming IN
Something New in Napkin Rings.
Philadelphia Press.
Something new in napkin rings has been
lately devised by. a. clever woman. These
rings are made of two thicknesses of med
iIm, or rather heavy weight, round thread,
bleached grass linen. They are cut with
one pointed and one square end close to the
required size, with a button and button
hole, and have small design of an initial
jewel or initial flower letter, or bird, or a
tiny spray embroidered on the outside to-
ward the pointed end.
Jewel initial letters are much in favor.
They ere outlined in gold color or royal
blue and then set with jewels. The initial
of the jewel must be the same, if possible,
as the letter in which it is set. r, for in
stance, calls for rubies; S, for sapphires; A,
for amethyst; b, for beryl or blood stone;
T, turquoise or green tourmaline, and so on.
Flower letters are worked on the same
principle; r, for roses; f, for forget-me-
not; w, for (sweeD William, wall-hower,
wild rose, WiStaria, etc.
If possible, the favorite flower of the in
dividnal for whom the ring Is Intended ed
like roses BEST she is unfortunate in hav-
ing a name that does not begin with r, and
the only thing to do is to take her second
favorite.
A very pretty variety can be obtained in
this manner for a half-dozen or dozen
rings. The linen is cut in strips about two
and one-quarter inches wide and eight
inches long, which allows OF one-quarter-
inch turnings all round. A true half-square
point is made at one end of each eight-tnch
strip before the rings are made up. The
embroidery is also done on the upper piece
before putting together, and the design is
placed near, but not too close to the point
ed end, Sc that when buttOned the design
will be uppermost thus enabling the men,
bers of the family to distinguish their own
rings at a glance. to
The embroidered piece is then sewn to a
plain piece for a lining turned through the
square end, smoothed pulled in shape, the
square end biind-stitched up and a tiny
trail of brier stitch of French dots carried
all around the ring to keep the edges in
shape. A buttonhole is worked in the point
and the ring completed by button at the
This button is very distinctive feature
in fact, where money is no object, 1t is apt
to be made the feature and become rather
expensive This is not necessary, however.
as in all cases where linen is concerned
daintiness is better form than much elabo-
ration. Anything neat will serve, from
linen or pearl to beautiful enamel, but the
buttons should not be too small as most
people, children and men particularly, like
something definite to get hold of.
If buttons with shanks are used, the
shanks can be sewn in place, or an eyelet
hole made at the square end of the linen
and the shank put through and secured by
a ring or small tape tie on the under side.
This plan admits of easy removal for the
laundry, and as no two buttons need be
alike, is a good way of using up odd but
tons too handsome to throw away.
The same kind of ring made larger labout
three inches wide by ten or twelve inches
long) in colored linen. may be used for
music rolls, handkerchief holders, etc. One
dainty matron has several in her piece
basket for holding together various kinds
of patterns, scraps and the like. in their
respective rolls and finds them as conven-
lent as they are decorative
Beautiful Book Covers.
New York Tribune.
Miss Evelyn Hunter Nordhoff is an artist
who develops her fancies in leather. In her
studio at No SO Washington Square many
specimens of her handiwork are on exhibit
ton. and in a talk with a Tribune reporter
she told of her fondness for her speciality.
IT am a bookbnder," she said, land 1
took up the business principally because
of my fondness for books. l love them so.
They are real friends and should be taken
care of with genuine appreciation"