The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-11-28
RoN VOTES.

Rennoe' has recently contributed to an Eng
llsh technical journal, in relation to tho cooks Of
Paris, some details that have not heretofore
been printed. Ho makes one statement that
will excite surprisc-that almost oil Of the
chefs In Paris arc natives OF that city. 1t
is generally believed that most of them come
from Alsaco or Provence. Under cooks who
rarely attain to a higher grade como from
Savoy and Auvcrgne. The pay Of restaurant
chefs IA from 100 to 1875 francs a month; assist
ants receive from 20 to 90 francs. The chcfs
OF tho Continental Hotel, the Jockey Club, and
similar establishments arc paid 25 francs n day,
tho same amount as Is paid n member Of the
French Assembly. Tho dull season for Paris
cooks is during the winter. Summer is their
busy period. Then their services arc in great
demand in tho suburbs. at country houses. and
at tho seaside. Paris contains. 10000 men
cooks, of oro nr the h pott Tbs siSss sm np nSs remain n tn
abandon cooking as soon as they have accumu..
lated enough money TO become proprietors OF
hotels. In fact, u restaurant cook, when he
f TSS sSnl t | " Condition Il HE; Of Of the kitchens sY IN pSr!;
i IN tGSrnSG%f hot. my They W arc b below ground and
abut the sewers, which .c~ontaminate the water
used for drinking and in cookery. The cooks
are confined I'm these dcns for twelve or four.
teen hours out OF the twenty four. with only an
hour off between 4 and 8 o'clock in the after.
noon. The conditions under which they labor
teric fevers, and tuberculosis.
They are VIGOROUSLY, hard drinkers, although
two meals q day, most OF them become very fat.
Those who escape obesity go to the other ex-
to DO no mean between the two degrees. OF
professional female cooks there are two or three
thousand In Paris; Those Of the first cla s;n re-
n %ss Se6u as they V' arc not dictated to by their
any other duties than to serve the meals with
punctuality and to excel in culinary concoc.
tons. The woman of the Sor house secs ses that dnas the
receive In the kitchen visits from relatives and
friends, otherwise she is absolutely, supreme in
her department and the acknowledged head OF
the domestic service.
Tho prejudice against horseiesh rs food 10
one that time and experience are fast dissi.
pating. In France and other Continental coun-
tries the use of this alimcnt is increasing so
rapidly that great attention is given to the
fattening of horses for the market. European
societies for the prevention OF cruelty to AMI
mails arc interesting themselves in this sub
ject, and are Offering inducements to farmers
to utilize their spare horses for food. 1t Is
conceded that the flesh Of these animals Is most
excellent and nourishing. We all bear witness
to this when we eat Of the famous Saucisson de
Lyons, which is now made almost exclusively
OF horseflesh. Iiebig. Mohschott, and other
ChenllSt6 nnND demonstrated Inut inc muSClBS
of horses contain n greater percentage OF albu:
men than those Of oxen and COWS. Smoked
horse tongues are moro delicate than those of
the now extinct buffalo.
Europeans know their merit and accord them
preference over all Others. Horse tea is rec
commended to invalids as possessing greater
tonic potency than beef tea. It Is moro savory
and nourishing. The broth is OF the color of
chicken bouillon. AS soup stock il has the
quantity Of solid produces a larger quantity of
liquid. Hippic meat REQUIRES a longer time to
roasted it is said to suggest venison. There is
no. part of the horse that cannot be utilized.
n inferior ad pS1ri9}n n m may n be cm n5o1anl n tha raE %Sen
made from corresponding cuts of beef or nut.
ton; The color OF the meat when roasted or
boiled is darker than that Of the OK. As the
grain Is shorter and moro brittle: greater skill
Is required In the carving, The decreasing use
ployment OF mechanical modes Of propulsion,
suggests the value of considering them serious
ly as an article of food. Every year there is
supply of beef. The horse. accorded the same
care in selection and preparation for market
Oleomarearine has kept the price of butter
within reasonable limits. A general use Of
hippic meat would DO an equally effective che =
latter sells for from 20 to 40 cents Q pound
horse meat may be had for from B to g cents
Tho pot.au-feu. which. is no longer boiled II
thousands Of Franch homes on account of I'll,
cost OF beef. through the cheapness of hippi,
tissue has assumed its former Importance II
the domestic economy Of that people.
some doubt prevails among a certain clasl
of French amateurs as to the future of San
tarsiero's Neapolitan restaurant In Paris. i
appears that the proprietor had a daughter,
beautiful woman of the classical Roman type
Mile. Santarsiero was the owner Of a dog whicl
was not'only.t the object OF her devoted affection
but of that of the freauenters of the restaurant
This animal 1t was supposed. went mad ant
communicated the virus, of hydrophobia 7
ta -Dpppr . ~ t,tytr0 nj fngn II 1
more than probable. however, that the dog wa
not mad, but that the death, Of the signorini
the species to lick the face or lips OF n humal
being, a practice which sometimes, it is assert
cd by medical men, causes u fatal disease OF tn
liver. The beauty of the daughter, the wit ant
gayety Of Santarsiero, and the famous triHes
la ]ltOurnuise and mHcaroni. which he serve
better than any one else, in Paris. attracted 4
the restaurant a special. clientele that is nov
mourning with the proprietor, the death OF IN
beautiful woman and only child who acted as hi
dame de compton. Amateurs OF Italian wines
for which Santarsiero's was also noted, arc n
less depressed than those who appreciate tn
merit of his culinary connections.
1t Is asserted that New York above all Of III
cities of the civilized world is tho city O
restaurants. There is n single deficiency t
this title to gastronomicfame, and that is tn
absence of fish soups from the menus Of the day
The Russians andsGermans:cxcel us in this pal
ticular. In order to sustain our reputatio
for cosmopolitan epicurcanism 70 should Civ
moro attention to the use of fish in the concoc
ton of soups. In an old classical, French cul
nary work entitled, Recipes do la Maison d
Madame" there is a formula for n PURGE q
cells that is worthy the attention Of amateur
and professionals: Cut up small carrots, celery
parsley roots and leaves, shallots, and a liberia
number Of mushrooms. with thyme. bay Leaf
sweet basil, pcppercorns, and mace. Fry then
in four ounces OF butter, then add one half pin
OF Sauterne. three pints of white stock. an
two pounds Of cells, cut in small pieces. BoI
for one hour: Then, strain and rub through
sieve. Put the liquid in n stew pan and thicko
with q white rouX to give the proper consistency
Finish with a liaison Of yolks of eggs an
sharpen with t~inctures OF spices and chopDe
parsley.
The Congress and Exhibition OF the VegC
tarians in London has aroused the luminosity q
some OF the carnivorous editors of Englis
journals. One of these proclaims that u vegt
table diet is coincident with the development
of a general 'cussedncss" and II disposition t
take up with every craze, fad, and folly that
going" In confirmation of this assertion h
quotes n vegetarian journal which boasts tina
most of the followers OF the cult arc abstainer