The Appeal. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn. ;) 1889-19??, 1897-11-27
NUREMBERG.
MEDIEVAL CHARMS OF BARAR-
las MOST ARTISTIC GEM;
Nuremburg has odd Attractions None can
Resist-Impsrial Sends, too, for Mrs.
Macomber Attends Big Military Re-
view-The Home of Duerer -@:8
Quaint old town of toll and traffic:.
Quaint old town of art ard song;
Efmories haunt thy pointed gables,

Outside the walls there is nothing to dis
tiaguish this from every other modern city
In the outlying districts are the brand new
factories that mark Germany's present pres
perity; where the whirr OF machinery never
ceases and the furnace fires never die out.
The mills for cotton and wooden fabrics, for
hose, suspenders, and buttons, for pottery
and granite ware. stand side by side; while
the laboratory Cor drugs Is naturally near
neighbor to che distilling-room of the per-
fume-lnakcr.
circle Of narrow parks, or drives, and
then come the villas, surrounded by shrub
berry; then blocks of tenement houses, rec
tangular IN shape, four or five stories high,
with mansard roof and SO like the ordinary
city block that we do not give them a second
glance.
The charm Of Nuremberg is inside the walls
Passing over the moat by wooden bridge,
and through the Frauenthor, we look up ana
down narrow street to see a broken sky
line, house with gables steep and high, the
next with its side turned toward us, and ftS
red roof ornamented with rows of little peep
holes-lunettes they call them. Another
with high hung oricl window, or boldly
projecting dormer. Plate glass is not Affect
ed by the people OF Nuremberg; the case
ments are fitted with tiny panes,, diamond or
loZenge shaped.
The front door opens directly upon tho
street, and, In passing, we catch a whit1 OF
ham and onions, 4Sa'GTkraut and coffee, for
here the kitchen front and the parton
at the rear.
The City sala Dress.
We had reached :IQberg at gala time
There was to be efrnd review of troops
by the German En- >e1nH, The King Of Saxony
and the Duke OF B ~ ftece also guests Of the
Prince Regent of a'4ria When the coali-
aa sR zss rs %s9s eoano Cd
tie army as welt a. T. : direction OF state
affairs; only in t,a- war Is she UNDER
Kaiser Wilhelm's Ts TSs Rlp:s Still occasion
ally he assists at Il 2r}ll.rl maneuvers. !
TIE decorations very fine Out OF
compliment to the c. It. the red, white.
and black Of Prussia alter ated will ne blue
and white Of Bavaria. arlands i. green,
tied with bow knots Of bunting, hum ouva
each window. The important buildings re-.
ceived especial attention. The entire facade
Of the city LaN was ornamented with ropes
OF spruce. frightened by the scarlet berries
VI the mountain ash; the rosette window Of
st. Lawrence church was bordered with elec-
trio lights: large plaster casts OF the four
Princes were in one WINDOW, anu IL a4.~.
bust of the EElferor;s with the royal standard
for q background. Flags everywhere, and
above the doors Of the fortunate possessors
were the freshly painted escutcheons Of the
Bavarian nobility.
The city was in fancy dress, but even in its
everyday clothes 1t cannot help being at
tractive, because it Is about the only town that
has preserved its fifteenth century arctitec-
ture- If "a new house is built 1t is always
after Rheiancient model Of steep roof and mar
row windows.
The wall is solid, and, in unbroken line,
circles about the old town--not a single
breach in it. To be sure, there are more
gates than formerly, but it still shows what
massive fertilization 1t once was. Nowadays
single cannon shot would cut clean through
1t, but in the time Of the battering ram and
the stone ball 1t must have been almost i'm
,tpregnable: In the thirty years war the
'BaNarian General lilly camped before it, but,
seeing the defense, withdrew without at
tempting an assault. At that time Nv:em-
berg was free city and its burghers were in
isy1npathy with the supporters Of the evan
}gelical doctrines. aGustavus Adolphus, the
Snow King of Sweden and Protestant CT am
,pion was received with reclamation. At the
head of 10000 soldiers he marched into the
city, and from thence sailed out to attack
the imperial General, Wallenstein.
In the, seven years war the town was
pillaged by the French; and in the troublous
times which followed its former commerce
with the Orient was nearly ruined. In 1906 it
gave up Its ch:-rter of independence AMI was
incorpo-ated into the kingdom of Bavaria.
The towers are round and square, and onA
is five-sided, and in the narrow slots designed
for arches will stand, perhaps. a pot with q
geranium In full bloom, or a cage with a
canary. The small, square windows ara
draped with muslin, and the rooms that once
resounded to the clash Of arms in war times,
or the clink Of glasses In peaceful periods, ard
now given ,over to the families of humble
artisans.
The bridges which span the River Pegnitz
must be source of joy to the artist-made Of
rough -hewn stone-the piers irregular inl
shape; in one a followed out place for a
shrine, in another a statue in bold relief
One bridge will consist of single span; an
other has two low arches, and above, and as
a part of it, "a dwelling house, with narrow
passage through the center. There Is the
HenAersteg, an old bridge, where the hang,
man lived he not only put his people to death
outright, but killed others by inches for he
was also the torturer. One of the machines
to convince a man of the error,of his ways was
the Iron Virgin" now in the museum. The
victim was given chance to recant. II he
refused he was thrust into this iron case, with
its sharp spikes, fashioned to represent the
blessed Mary, and the door closed upon him;
the cruel iron penetrated his brain and lacer-
ated his flesh, so that death was a welcome
relief. s..
The River Pegnitz flows under these bridges!
and through the town which 1t separates 'utOi
almost two equal parts. Close down to the
waters edge stand the houses with their hay
windows and balconies. -r .l.s. ~
And the calor scheme Of the town is 30 good.
wv, q 1~OAI SAsISAAc .ycAAoW uccPeuAu& UOWu k1CO
brown, and, here and there, patches Of green
so like what we on the antique bronzes.
think 1t must be some kind Of lichen, that,
gets started UP on the old tiles or ON the wall
down by the water. The roofs are dark red
and the chimneys SO high that the smoke has
4ost its SCOT and is only q blush vapor.
Go from the little flower market into the
fruit market, thence where they sell vege-i
tables: see the women in their scant blue
petticoats and loose short sacks, q bright
kerchief tied over the hair. You are offered
cyclamen and asters, cranberries and
grapes, or cabbage and potatoes, according to
the spot where you halt.
When you go to Nuremberg be sure to buy
some spice cake. Nuremberg ginger bread is
famous all over Germany, and hardly 4
Christmas table but has its share Of "Pfeffer-
kuchen," as it is called. In little street near
the market-place may still be found the small
oval watches that once were called "Nurem-
berg eggs" And the toys, the toys!
The twin towers of st. Sebald rival those Of
interest. for here the opening scene OF the
"Mestersinger" is laid. This opera had
Just been given in Dresden. and our first
thought. on reaching Nuremberg, was 20
1ocate the scenes and actors. St. Katerina ia
away. and the pulpit torn down, but Its mem
DRY will ever be perpetuated in Wagner,s
opera.
4, A Famous Fountain. tE. s
| IN thA nhnrnh- i q cast Of tho Paunthrun.