The herald., 1897-05-09
The Same Shapes as the
Beauty of 1880
A NEW AND CHARMING SACQUE
A NOVEL AND FASHIONABLE
SKIRT-RED LINGERIE
A Costume for the Classical-F1owers
Used for Trimming Brides Dress
es-Puzzle Lock Bracelet
Special Correspondence to The Herald.


Special Correspondence to The Herald.
NEW YORK, May 2.-We are going
back to the fashions of our grandmoth-
ers in hats; that is, the fashions that
were popular with them when they were
girls. The date of the particular style
of headgear which we must cultivate Is
1880, and really these arrangements Of
the old time milliners are so pretty It
quite reconciles us to forget that they
are not the latest ideas of the milliners
OF Paris.
In modified forms these hats are being
made with colored straw jam pot crowns
and brims of white or black drawn tulle
which affect the Empire shape, and are
finished off with ruche at the edge. The
quaintness they give to youthful faces
is only rivaled by the elegance of their
appearance for elderly women. AS yet
the princess bonnet is as little seen as
the princess dress, but solemn assurances
are given that it is only being held
back for the time being.
The new shaded millinery is delicious.
There are crowns of violet velvet with
brims of fancy mauve straw trimmed
of lilac. The freshest of green's coquette
with each other in many of the hats,
toned by gerbes of shaking black velvet
oats on fine green stems. Rose, coral and
poppy reds would give fascinating effect
II one were only sure that they would
not grow common in time. Coarse yell
low and burnt" straws, show quaint
little Louis-Seize knots of wired narrow
,,;l1 al IF
while the Leghorns continue to be re-
srlendent with nodding white plumes and
half wreaths of roses resting on the
hair. In a more sedate style might be
me entioned an Empire ,ghorn hat lined
with black satin and trimmed with black
ostrich plumes and variegated roses.
Black and white mixtures are pronli-.
nent, and many of the new tailor-made
dresses have waistcoats of white velvet
eeen spotted with black. A practical
front" may be made of white accordion
China silk trimmed with narrow Valen-
ciennes lace. If a jeweled belt Is worn
with this, any colored ribbon may form
stock or bow Of cream lace may
replace it when a change is desirable.
Very narrow black lace is often seen on
the white, pink or lemon accordion vests,
| anu very pTtLly lhSy lOOh. hS JS SVSAS
zones must be really good to look any
thing but vulgar. The best way Is to
have a special design made and properly
carried out by a good firm of jewelers..
In Paris coats are much worn, willis
here the mantle struggles for suprem-
acy. AS a compromise between the two.
there is the sacque, and one recently seen
is we'll worthy of description in detail.
Jxyx bod on a q mr. dr0r q
black broche dress, which was confined
TO her waist by a flaming red ribbon
belt. The note was repeated in the
sleeves, which had frills of red nsse
pleating under the funnel-shaped cuffs.
The hat was miracle of good taste in
the new cerise-colored straw, having q
full crown of red horsshair muslin, with
quantity Of lovely leafiess roses and
two bold black ostrich tips, gartered by
band Of black velvet ribbon.
The sacque itself was composed Of
black satin, and the armholes were made
particularly large. The front hung loose
and revealed the bodice beneath. A
Medici collar, thickly embroidered with
emeralds, formed a frame for the back OF
the neck. The fronts of the sacque were
edged. with the narrow emerald trim
ming. From the shoulder seams the
back of the sacque was superbly en-
broidered in emeraldS and metallic
threads; a V-space left room for two
Watteau p!eats at the back. The eacque
was lined with dark green shot silk and
could be worn with almost any Dress
1t would be quite easy to copy. but care
must be taken to make the fronts rather
long and pointed and the armholes very
wide and V-shaped toward the waist.
Here is a brand-new skirt which bids
fair to be extremely fashionable. 1t Is
cut in two pieces, with a narrow front
piece, and then the selvedge Is used for
the side seam. There is, besides, only one
seam at the back. The skirt can be, made
| of any material, and is trimmed with
five rows of cross bands, plain or edged
with tiny silk cord. Care must be takens
however, not to buy any but double-
width goods for these skirts, for the mar
row widths spoil the appearance Of the
gown. For this reason the narrower
materials are very reasonable in price
They are also practically useless for the
purpose of making princess dresses.
Red is so much in favor this year that
sets of lingerie are being prepared all in
red, such as under-petticoats of red
surah and over-petticoats of red taffetag
or satinette. There are also chemisee
and drawers of red coral or surah. A
pattern underskirt is of red surah, with
small pleats, the over-petticoat of taf-
fetas pelisse soleil, with four small
founces scalloped. This. of course, is q
fantastic novelty, as it is difficult to i'm.
agine any refined and elegant woman
discarding her fine baptiste and lace
garments.
At this season of the year, with the
merry tinkle of the wedding bells so
close at hand, the brides must not be
forgotten. A very pretty idea for bridal
costumes is to have the wedding dress
trimmed with festoons of beautiful flow
ers, which are allowed to droop from the
waist, like the garlands Of long ago,
pansies and rosies and forget-me -nots
being very often blended together. Then
the whole costume is yelled with one Of
the new gossamers, so delicate and dia-
phanous as to show the daintiness be-
meath, and the effect is simply charm-
ing.
Most people would be apt to suffer
qualms of anxiety in leaving it as .
lock to a bicycle. but for the makers
assurance that these bracelets, which
are made in a variety of designs, are
so strong as to render the length of time
xoo,,;rod for f1ipo then, through n risk