The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-12-19
o

HAS ~ n,.oa aa AZ uoanv nnnos,te ssoh dish
The nsm S'o - no on IN so n menu nro OpSUsii Il. In these
and nv m. n,on naoh ons e. ossured that his
work shall receive praise IL It be of exceptional
merit. The system inspires and encourages
effort, and appeals to the amour propre with
which these gifted beings arc so largely en-
dowed. II ia not probable that this fashion
iii or,- -. sss..a,s q. ,ht. oorn,rr
with us, even in the larger households, a sin
srr,an .asnSaaas o...aahan nr.,.s =, tb,s
functionary 10 carefully avoided, as recognition
OF culinary merit is followed promptly by q do
mand for an increase Of wages. It is not wise,
therefore, for the appreciative amateur who
dimes out to m audibly any particular
dish that may appeal to bis gastronomic In
s~tincts, unless no be inspired by q malevolent
Rnrpose' MS praise VIII only cause consIerna-
other knows that bebind the Observation-Disclosures
stalks the spectre Of a request for higher pay
ron the COOK. Formerly. appreciatlye IecoE-
sential 70 the Observation-Disclosures cooi. some coots
were 80 sensitive on this point that they could
nn3t 40 yustice 70 themseIves II it was Tiunneio.
Of This In r FAR a notcd chef 81 Nh time ;This
artist was in the employ Of Lord Seaford, who
was ooi,eed 70 dispense with his services Tor
ecenomical reasons.
some months atterward a aisI,ngnlshed con
fore the first course was half over he detected
S sres n1h nr or r res h,. "a en-, mhd fS INQUIRY o SnS
hin 70 the Duke Of Weilink ton: After a brief
991 npS iSnecs WIN ing ,au,sr ne naa reuu hne -
Loru SsaIoru anu oeRReu 10 20 tnkem PUCK ~
determined not to remain at APsley House. He
most liberal OF masters. but that when he served
Frnnc q eIHne Sur .aat ri WSu, nry nave th maze net oue ea n
nothing. When Felix went out and left the
DDuSe 70 oaI u o'nner rrepareu ny .he maia. inS
ErHHkEe made no complain. THAT, my lord
NJ
A writer In an English technical journal is
contributing a series of articles on the various BUS
COURSES OF q ainher. ne mas no" reaehea INC
obominably in England than any where else on
the Rlope. He evidently knows his audience.
for he says that in small English households
there prevails an idea that anything will do for
an entree. provided It Is highly seasoned. In
these establishments, even If the cook be compe-
tent, his or her repertoire of entrees may not
| consist of moro than a dozen dishes. This
paueity OF resource leads to monotonous and
, wearlsome repetiton. Inc exceptional COOK Is
that one who Is familiar with between 200 and
3oo entrees one VINO mover ioses the original
flavor Or the basis Of the preparation. who pre-
pc ce tbat snpor and Who sar SJ a ces
neither inc CTlspnebS NOT Inc warmth OF an en-
tree IN favor OF elaborate Arrangement or dec.
sbbauid aim a. = Sistdnetion in he entrsss sn ra fhe
than variety.
The writer OF the article quoted accentuates this
Of the AZ, nniiinery nindp 20 En9land IN IN thie
there are but two entrees, flet do bRuf bou.
q~uetiere, and ris d'agneau r6gence. The first
R %risss Condemns sse xeF Gynd taui The T hasS 81 re eve anEltse
ration. The meat, which, through previous
treatment, has acquired q distinctive flavor, Is
i parnished with meaningless caaeS of yepetables.
roses cut from turnips. and carrots; and other
1%ant sntise combinations annssssssr OF s siss' islly S / trp Was Con- Ss;.
s sSssttrs with f" sauce re IS ss Which & no ain :
but o brown espagnole sa ace with white wine.
trufies, &C. This sauce derives its name from
The Regent Of France during the minority of
hands at the petits soupers of the Palais. Royal.
The English writer closes his article with q
Bsoi d.si for T y snt As = HSll no e sii% oPs s snsr ssv shi ba.
fore appeared in print. 1t is q preparation of
breast Of pigeons. q all the winged species
cry. It is certainly not to England at the close
Of the nineteenth century that we should look
~" =
Since the simplifcation of menus for public
ava nr,v,t. dirnora haa haoorn. nn;vsr,.I ~.
task OF feedlng a large NUMBER OF people at one
time ID much less complicated man formerly.
Our pupho dinners are noteo TOT their perfec-
ton OF oetaii ana OF service. Inc french,
however, aie d eiose seconu- Attn oanuues
given recently 10 M. feh3 faure oy the Cham
oer OF commerce OF farls tnere were present
100 persons. Inc oinner was served IN the
largo meeIine room Oh inc Onamoer' wnich is
occupied until o r. M. Inc members de-
clined to cut short tho hours Of business. SO that
the caterers could begin, operations only after
tho adjournment of the day. They had, there
fore. only two hours or unit. z F, M, to COM
plete all the arrangements for the banquet.
In that space Of time eighteen tables were laid
] out with all their e0ulDment, This, In part
consisted OF 1000 plates, $500 knives, 1000
glasses. $500 spoons. and 5000 forks. In add.
ton, there were 80 baskets OF fruit, as many Of
flowers, 800 sets Of petits Jours. about 300
yards Of damask tablecloths, and go candle.
labra. The service was in charge of four head
under his control. The culinary ,department
~ r. es cHcts Sya baIners pwo ico msGnrs any
a number Of others, making q total of 40 ner.
sons to each section. The provisions consisted
e Sc St and S 6o Ak tpopt a IN Sun 0UUaSratss cas-
about, Of sauce francaise-a white sauce In
which, with other ingredients, crawfsh butter