The record-union., 1897-06-27

Rumor saws that the ladies who are
to attend Queen Victoria's Jubilee gar
den party at Buckingham Palace are to
wear Victorian hats and bonnets, the
real old, time-honored poke, but the deft
and exquisite taste of the tTench MILL
ners can work wonders in becoming ef-
feet before the time arrives. A mlnia-
1ure poke bonnet has great possibilities
with a pretty face inside. The gowns
are to be a compromise between the ola
and the modern styles. which shall mar
nonize with the quaint headgear.
Many of the dressy summer Frencn
dress models show the bodices cut IN low
rounding or square shape, to be worn
over pretty Russian guimpes of various
kinds. This is a cOmmendable style Ior
those to whom it is appropriate ana De-
coming for the guimpe can be changed
any number of times, affording a variety
of picturesque effects at very little ex-
pense.
Other bodices are s1ashed, revealing
an undervest either of lace, brilliant
cerise satin accordion pleated muslin, or
let. This is very smart and dressy
fashion, and, like the bolero style, at
fords an opportunity for making very
effective use of small remnants of vari-
Gus elegant dress fabrics. This use of
small handsome pieces of dress goods
has not the least appearance OF
patchy or economical one, for the bod
ices of the most chic and charming OF
the imported models are formed OF just
such beautiful odds and ends of brilliant
brocade costly velvet, elegant silks and
satins. lace points, jewel medallions, and
other beaded pieces, short lengths of rich
lace, etc.
Very fine designs in Cluny and Flem-
ssh lace appear on new summer toilets,
fancy waists and linen lawn and cam
brio underwear.
There has been a great deal said
about cobweb wells, but it is a term
that was in no way descriptive except
as comparatively with the heavy net
veils The newest veil is in reality
cobweb veil, with all the irregularity
and variety of angular joints of a cob
web. and in the center or thereabouts
of each web is a chenille spider with
distance is of stars, but closer inspec-
1ion shows the mesh of the vein, and 1t
becomes apparent without doubt that
the SPIDERS web and spiders are all
there waiting for the traditional fly.
About the borders are figures of the
same shape as the spiders, but without
the chenille.
There is a very wide choice thls
year in graduation dresses, white India
silk made up over crisp taffeta taking
high place among the very recherche
gowns for college girls. FLOWERS and
handsome satin ribbons, but no laces,
are chosen for garniture, and the gowns
are simply but elegantly fashioned
Next comes dresses of sheer white India
null or organdie with gored skirts
trimmed with lace-edged ruff1eS from
belt to hem. The waists are round, and
many fancy jacket effects are added.
Merry charming also are the gowns OF
white batiste with tuckS in cluster al
ternating with single rows of Swiss en-
broidery with fitted blouse or yoke waist
and skirt, with horizontal rows of in
sertion on the waist and sleeves. Other
Swiss muslin dresses are made with
seven gored skirts nearly covered with
narrow ruches or frills, with a
rlain waist decorated with a graceful
Marie Antoinette fichu, with long scarf
ends that cross the figure at the waist
and tie at the back. Very handsome
dresses are made variously of white eta
anime. canvas, mohair, nuns yelling, and
double-faced cashmere. A French toi-
iet for very wealthy sweet girl gradu-
ate is made of silk net over white satin,
and is of very sheer white silk, "gauze
grenadine," made up over moire silk,
the beautiful watered material showing
1nistily through the soft meshes of the
grenadine.
Really the newest and smartest hats
FOR ordinary use are of black or dove
gray straw, turned up at both sides,
and trimmed high and wide all
around, but especially in front, wi IN
swings that contrast or harmonic.
Women who can pay for luxuries and
have no conscience about wearing dead
birds have one or two of them in black.
with jeweled eyes, on their walking
hats. Other women get along with
glass-eyed songsters or turkey wings.
I think the trimmed walking hat will
take the place largely of the old-time,
nndecorated hat this summer.
Some of the new India silks brocad-
ed in small Marie Antoinette patterns.
and other plain Indias, woven so thin
that they are almost like gauze, are
one of the French novelties that can
be accordion -pleated as effectively as
chiffon. They are, however, as fine and
beautiful in quality as they are trans
parent.
The navy-blue etanines, canvas
goods, English serges, Indias, foulards
and lightweight ladies' cloth, each
and all make stylish and really e'e-
CANT tailor costumes that hold their
own against all the endless smart and
novel gowns that the season has pro-
duced. In a parlor-car filed with a
company en- route for gay house party
out of town, it was noticed that among
the various new travelling costumes