The record-union., 1897-02-07

u l.
a topic that is perennially interesting
cannot be considered hackneyed; there
fore additional discourse concerning
fancy jackets needs no apologies. 1T
IS on the books of fashion that we are
to hear considerable about them for
some time TO come. Motley is the
only wear" says Shakespeare. The
greatly varied fabrics introduced, and
the diversity shown in their application,
render the word motley" as applied to
the boleIo, the Russian, French, guard,
and similar fancy jackets, entirely ap-
propriate, or at least not inapt. Just
now. though looking quite chic and
smart, these little garments for street
wear, as has before been observed. APP
pear quite insufficient as a substitute
for heavy winter coat or cape. Be
ing channels lined, they are, however,
somewhat more protective than they
look The velvet blouses that fashion
still affects cannot exactly be called
street wraps, but when becoming, they
are really a better though a less novel
choice than the bClero Jacket. Dark
E1ued velvet blouscs are still worn With
handsome cloth skirts with both house
and street costumes. Their simple Sc
we're style remains unchanged, elabora-
ttcn being exercised in the case of
blouses Of brocade. satin or similar light
textiles. Modified muttcn-leg sleeves,
costly buttons and a very narrow fur
roll on the fiaring collar and cuffs form
the sole decoration, and frequently the
showy buttons are omitted. On the
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brown ol. black velvet a more ornate
style is observable. Tudor or Queen
Beas rufs are employed with additions
of creamy lace pIeatings or ruches of
mousselaine de sole, some Of these hav-
ing tiny clusters of perfumed violets
in the heart Of each pleat.
Fashionable modistes make a point
of carrying out the details Of a costume
even when the gown is very simple
for instance, in black mohair, serge or
wool armure Dresses made with a
short bolero jacket are furnished with
q house waist, usually Of fancy taffeta
dotted or striped with satin, and this
pretty silk rGappSars as a lining OF
the Jacket and skirt and sometimes
forms a Ia baIayeuse. shimmering
taffeta in dark green, shot with Vio-
let and barred with black satin, is very
effective as a waist ana Innings Of black
or brown gowns. while cherry with
black or rose with silver gray are silks
chosen for gayer tastes. Cherry will
be quite as popular an accessory for
green. blue or black dresses as it has
been for several seasons past. New
H. ,,.kHtf 4
shaded effects, and these are to be lined
with plain taffetas. Mixed tweeds have
grounds showing an over-weaying of
bright or neutral tnts in contrast with
the surface. producing a chameleon ef-
feet New French mOhairs have broche
dots. armure figures. boucle knots and
bair-line stripes.
Drap a etc, French cashmere, in new
double weaveS. and Henrietta cloth bid
fair to be greatly favored among the
smooth-surfaced materials next season.
Either of these three fabrics can be
made up very simply or In combination
with moire. corded silk or taffeta. The
silk accessories may be finished with a
narrow gimp or tiny jet band, or a
more ornate style VIII show a vest Of
folded chiffon over silk. a wide girdle,
a full neck ruche and long mutton-leg
sleeves. This forms q gown equal 10
silk in stylish appearance and one that
is adapted 20 any general wear short
of a gown for utility prposes. Small
checked fabrics viii he even more in
vogue this spring than during the past
year, which is saying great deal. They
q s-it, raHa nj
dressy materials. in thirty. forty and
fifty-two-inch widths, and range in
price from - cents To 81 30 n yard.
They win BE used both for entire suits
and in combination with plain textiles.
Easket-woven woods in two c0lors
crossed with a third in small shepherds 5
checks are among the spring samples.
These are very attractive. particularly
those IN soft old rose checked with
green and crossed with dark green or
brown. gray or fawn. with two shades
Of Roman blue and similar pretty mix
lures.
Roman blue, a superb dark shade Of
color now popular abroad. is making its
way among leading colors on this side
% the water A few costumes Of this
handsome and most becoming color
have apps ared among costly imported
costumes OF rich ladies' cloth trimmed
with sable or mink or chinchilla fur.
and IN the array Of costly dinner and
reception gowns Of the blue in heavy
Lyons brooches with embossed flowers
In white, gold or various artistic color
blenaings. There are also visiting COS
tunes Of Turkish blue corded silk dec
GRATED with fur and Oriental passe-
menteries in the form of special massive
pieces for the bodices and sleeves.
Notwithstanding the rage for the
small elegant Empire fans. the larger
ones made Of gauze and real ostrich
and marabout feathers still maintain
their hold on fashionable favor. The
latest styles i'm the Viennese feather.
following the universal craze for color
effects, show small brilliant mosaic
like design laid against the back
grounds Of black or cream hite mar
about feathers. Ostrich feather fans.
the oval shape dotted here and there
with flashing semi precious gems, are
in delicate colors of pink. cream, yell
low and mauve, and Empire fans OF