Omaha daily bee., 1897-06-20

Charming Fnncics for shirt Waist ana
SnIInr In Mcniher.

NEW YORK, June 17.-It is really time
to talk Of ginghame, though two weeks ago
women with the best stocked wardrobes
were yearning after the contents OF their
safely stored winter trunks, laid away to
sleep their long sleep In camphor and news
papers. But al last wash goods shirt waist
and sailor hat weather has arrived, and the
importers, who track fashionable women to
their most secret fastnesses, are setting on
for the watering places to display exquisite
novelties in French cotton gowns, along
fSith special makeupe OF their own.
Il Now, to the parisian mind the term ging-
ham does not necessarily suggest costume
that can suffer tubing. Gallo taste in
eists that ON a cotton foundation any ma
terIal may be grated, and that gingham
Ia neither truly smart nor equal to long,
arduous wear unless 1t is based on silk;
therefore, when really pretty French cotton
h purchased a gown suitable for Use on
the most stately occasions is the result.
1t can be worn to balls. luncheons lawn
parties, country weddings, when coaching,
driving and attending church, and at I'll"
end OF the season 1t will probably require
a cleaning, and not visit to the laundress
In consequence OF this notion the Partisan
dressmaker can get up some very elegant
little toilets She gives them all thin
tafreta underskirts and does not hesitate
10 trim them with lace, velvet, the most
eccontrcally pretty silk gmps and spangles
of lisse neck decorations. Many are shown
with accordion plated skirts. and favorite
fancy Is to initiate with varying widths oil
satin ribbon the braiding now so popular
on all petticoats. But whatever else the
scheme of decoration displays, it must not
fail to accentuate great brilliancy OF color
ing.
This early In the season was the solemn
trade from Paris and the mandate has been
successfully carried out on our side. TO ald
the good cause the manufacturers have
turned out the majority of percales, glng-
hams, lappets and prints in handsome vivid
back grounds of radish red army and ASA
tian blue puppies ranging from the deepest
iris to the pllest violet Chinese yellow and
peacock green. bearing wide and narrow
stripes and checks in white and black, big
and little polka dots or clusters OF crescents;,
darts ribbon figuring, rings and sprays, all
In some sharply contrasting tint
On such foundations are heaped the gaNest
OF ribbons, an abundance OF embroidery and,
In consequence, some thing IKE CLOSE re-
lationshp is maintained with the frivolous
summer hat. fine departure in the way
OF cotton novelties has been made by the
changeabe gingham, and 1t is to be re-
corded that very little lace is seen on the
y strictly wash dresses. Embroidery is all
Npervading. the white lawn and brown batiste
edging and inserting taking precedence,
worked in two three or as as many nrsstsr as mTe
ber OF coors employed the more expensive
the material but none the less it is lovely
and desirable.
MAKING COTTON DRESSES.
But to turn to the practical side OF things,
which is the making OF these suits. Where
Frepch examples in the use OF SILK are lol-
lowed the skirts are usually made on a sep
arated foundation, and some thing near tne
proportions OF fad has arisen for cutting
out the neck of the waist to show yoke
of constrasting color. Here and there
very pretty overskirt appears. Ruhies up 10
l,,ly amt IN
are still in good grace, and a last INTRO
duction is that of running tiny rufiles up the
back widths only from waist to hem.
Now an overskirt is no inconvenience wneh
cut after the fashion shown in the sketch
of the striped red and white gown. This Is
gingham in the hard bright color
called radish red The under petticoat is
solidly tinged as the skin of freshly
pIucked radish and the top drapery, falling
in three points, two in front and one be-
hind. is widely barred with white bands.
The sleeves illustrate new interpretauon
Of the mousquetaire, for they are of solid
red above the elbow, with striped puifs
failing over what looks quite like the
wrinked length OF a pair OF radish coiored
gloves. pouched bodice OF the striped
goods is gathered about yoke of the solid
color and THO constitutes almost an ideal
wash suit. 1t is adapted almost exclusively
to the slenderly built woman but there Is
not a whalebone used, the skirts need no
sham. and on these sensible lines the
strictly American gngham Is made up.
Equally modish and suitable is the dark
blue and white checked cotton. Very truth
fully speaking this is skirt and coat, to
be worn with shirt waist. The triple
collars belt and pocket flaps on the skirt
are made of white linen and big pearl
buttons set off what is an irreproachabe
suggestion for any out-of-doors function or
for water parties.
A TIMELY MODEL.
What French woman means by a ging
ham is displayed in the cut of the rufed
costume, Its underskirt is Chinese yellow
taffeta and to thie set graduated
ruiiles OF alsatian blue cotton, frightened
with polka dots of Chinese yellow silk.
Chain stitching of yellow silk is what holds
the polka dots in place and bias bands OF
silk in the same color. form the girdle and
collar, Again a yoke Is to the fore, a yoke
of yellow silk embroidery, and this pretty
suit, worn with hat of blue straw trim.
med with yellow roses and blue plumes,
testifes to the French woman's assertion
that a gingham when rightly treated, is
worth as much as a silk gown any day.
or course it is worth deal more to the
feminine entity in short skirts, whose nat
ural summer plumage Is gingham, though
Il must not be so garlsh effect OF color
as she could wear were her years and her
skirts both longer. AS 1t is however, In
solid. rosy red cotton, she shows n yoke
like her elder sister. made of alternate pufrs
OF white lawn and bands OF white embroid-
cry. Her basque ruiles OF white
lawn needlework, and four bands OF in
cry of her yoke. This emnently Is wash
dress, adaptable to a girl OF or II yeas
who wears her curs after the French fash
Ion with noeuds of taffeta ribbon, to match
her gown. catching two curls together, just
above either ear
MIDSUMMER HATS
With the changeable cotton costume which
ts perfectly washable. even If it Is In two
colors, Is worn both the sailor and trimmeI
beefeater crown hat, in changeable straw.
This is among the tempting odds and end;
OF novelties that the shopkeepers alwayG
bring out at the tail end OF the season, Just
\ TO prove, as 1t We're. that there are stin
Nsmail trumps of fashion to be played even
at the flag end of things 1t is undeniable
that these gay straws make excellent out
ing hats and the most attractive sailor so
far as seen, has brim OF fiat straw and a
crown that is slightly puffy, of soft basket
straw. Around the crown is folded a broad
bias band OF changeable red and green silk
with two big jeweled buttons holding down
large rosette of silk on the left side. An
other refreshing way OF treating a sailor, and
q white one at that, is to draw about the
crown narrow velvet ribbon bands, black
hrn hat ag,l.