New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-17
PARIS LIKES LONG SKIRTS.
sorr. cL1NGING EFFECTS SOUGHT AFTER
IN RECENT GOWN MODELS
srvznA. coIORs THAT APPEAR THIS SEASON
FOR THE FIRST TINE THE Use OF PEAU DE
GANT-EFFEC-T or MILLINERY
on COIFFURES.

GANT-EItECI MlLi>lSERE
on CoIFFUREs.
Paris October s. 1897
peau 1e CANT appears 10 be the most popular
wool fabric OF the season. and II certainly seems
,rvellously adapted to the lorrg clinging effects
most OF the models show. Whether it is this
,,oty material that Is res ponslble for the revival
~ TIE Princess gown whether tho popularity
NJ the Princess form suggested 10 some manu-
facf,rer the new kind Of stun ii is difficult 20 say.
bur both pesu de giant and tho Princess form are
aportant clements IN the seasons modes. and
,hcir marriage as the French dressmaker some
tines terms combination. is most happy.
The modes for the coming Se2son are fairly well
defined now. ana il 10 rather interesting - note
iust how nany and how important are the
changes Many OF them. to he sure, were talked
OF during the summer, and there were indications
Of them In some OF the spring models. but what
has only been conJectural for the last six months
&c now an assured fact.
Sleeves and skirts longer diminishing:
.bey have reached a point Where ;hev are likely 10
remain for time. The close. clinglnS tupon
With IT'S trailing length that appeared as an uncx-
pected novelty al the Grand PriX one sees now as
o matter CT course, and the fitted basque that WAS
syn.,ted with the fail months heightened It's skirts
and became rcdingote or Princess form
These things were indicated beforr. for fashion
does rot make decided jumps. but they neverthc-
less appear now with the force OF novelty. outside
Of the conturere's establishments.
BLOUSE BODICES
7. not so popular the blouse bodice Is quite as
fashionable as II was in the days when all hodces
were blcuses II is al that IS left 10 recall the
modes Of a year ago. The shape OF tho bodice
Itself has hardly changed. but with chnsing skirts
and close sleeves the tout ensemble. of which 1t is
a mart Is new. The blouse to-day seems excess
,,ye,y full in comparison with thu rest CT the
costume.
There are two new features to the blouse bodice.
II may quite properly have basque pieces on the
s,;l1 and il may be worn with the narrowest sug-
ros,lon OF belt In the latter case 1t Is wiser TO
}asten or sew the belt ribbon TO the waist binding
II tho skirt for inch wide ribbon will not com
bire skirt and waist with overmuch security. Inc
narrow belts are generally OF velvet, IN a prlSht
color and are pretty on some figures For eN-
annie house gown OF cashmere In ono OF the
shades OF beiges so fashionable now has trim
ming Of lace and geranium color velvet on the
blouse bodice, line OF the velvet without DO"
or fastening making the belt.
To return to the popular peau de CANT 1t comes
IN A wide variety OF colors that includes the oId
favor..es what the dealers refer TO as OMNIBUS
shades" and the new and popular shaoes OF the
season as we'll. Among the latter. are some oeauu-
.ul tints OF cream. ecru and beiges. as well as
oIrtisb shade that might be called ecru blush
inc for the French seem to have found as yet
no proper name for It.
COLORs OF THE SEASON.
Aiming the other colors distinctive OF the season
Is peacock blue called here pheasant blue there is
also yyrian purple, the new shade OF vloiet caneo
Marguerite Refine, and several brilliant shaaes OF
red such as geranium and emnence. the iatter
suggesting the Cardinals hat. These prisht shaoes
are embroidered sometimes in white. sometimes In
black braid or with the black and white mixed.
which gives often a softer prettier eject BLACK
and white braid used together are lovely on some
of the light cloths.
Very chic IS a jacket OF white cloth covered
with an application Of black velvet figures done on
tribe crayish. and 10 make the design more elab-
S Sissse the Sh ats '@ ., aHs eo
the high half-colar faced with black velvet ana
finished with a cravat OF coral mousseiine DO sole
Three coral buttons close i on one side The The
skirts very short and nat In 'front.' ana over
petit souvenir de rien."
THE DOWAGER PROVIDED FOR.
The dowager is we'll provided for this season;
the Princess FORM with Its trailing skirts becomes
her we'll and. with the rich materials In use. her
robes de ceremonie should be marve!s o, luxury
and beauty.
There are some strlkingly handsome MORE silks.
among them the MORE MAGNITUDE" which is
description well name gown intended
for an october wedding is o: this in that magniii-
royalty OF mothers OF "n1ariees' The gown is
s With pnssis bsf bS ans e in SIX Son or
TGe Jacket opens over a blouse OF gray satin, with
satin sleeves ncrns,ed with lace gurss the Wh he
skirt opens in front to show narrow panel OF the
m and ee Baa rs Back OF
the gown rises to form Medicis collar that is
lined With white lace.
LOVELY GOWNS ON THE STAGE.
There is lovely house gown worn by actress
IN piece at the Palais Royal. The material
Is crepe-l!ke silk in cel blue. and the trimming
black S,,r nd Tha Cd
Including the sleeves is OF lace with drapery OF
NIX about the armholes ana over the sleeves
one sde The skrt IS bordered by row Of lace
and fur. and IS cut close and trailing. Princess
ment Of f the fur Two lines o. this star: at The
bottom CT the skirt in front. break of at the
W bes 10 spfsr Ssa sD9ve a ' over g he belt
behind making orc unbroAen lins to the hem not Of
ms @ by ns DaES panel s Of '
An effective evening toilet Of rich yellow bro
makes a train and is unframed. the beauty of the
material seeming 10 forbid any garniture. The
scSet cr, sNor ' mHder the arms and Hopping in
shsrp point p the wa!stne OF god 81, em6 STdd;
Of the c5rsase Is a large butterfly OF Jet and an
% 4y but r Lis 81 coo 2"f the
scarf Of blue velvet abou; The waist.
AN EVENING TOILET
For the evening comes 'tulle craquele." which.
1s It's suggests, looks Ike cracked glass
ard sometimes there figures embroidered over
this cracked surface 1t comes in all colora but
Is particularly effective In black with trimmings
CT jets and flowers There will be lot OF jet
used evening gowns this season In the form OF
ornaments and trimming.
4 white "tulle craquale" on which tiny eoId
slois embroidered makes charming damcins
frock. with full skirt and blouse corsaSe. there
are long unlined sleeves. held TO n shoulder-strap
OF rose velvet, which fastens 10 the corsage WIN
the velvet straps make It possible TO wear com
for;ably long sleeves with such decohe,age. -.
The sash Is OF rose velvet, fastening on 10 the
left side with bunch Of roses that trail down on
the skirt These fall over the bodice from the
left shoulder - -, -
A pretty arrangement OF ribbon is shown on
debutante's frock of white tulle. The blouse cor
sage IS cut wi'h long sleeves. and with decol-
letase as rounded as possible finished by a deep
fchu os point d'AuCletcrre. On the left slde OF
the decoetsse IL large bow OF white satin rio3on
Aa..- L.. lcl lI.