Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-10-08
THE OLD FIRST WARD
"West End, "Foggy Bottom, Camp
HiI' and "Round Tops"
FAMILIAR PLACES mold WASHINGTON
Where Fashion and Politics Had
Their First Homes.
ANCIENT HISTORY RECALLED

1t was tn, FIRST ward in the olden
dime. when that portion of the city west
of the executive departments was referred
to by the old Washington people. Fifty
years ago 18th street was the dividing line
of that and the second ward. That portion
south of Pennsylvania avenue was the
fashionable West End in those days,
though there were some localities within
these lines known by other less high-sound-
ing names, such as "Foggy Bottom for
that section west of the observatory, and
Round Tops" for the neighborhood Of
Washington circle. Though not built up so
compactly the lower section of the city,
it was fully as good a portion of the fed
eral city as any other. Indeed, a goodly
portion of the general government was al
ready located in the first ward when it was
removed here. In population it Kept up
well with the lower part of the city, and
possessing no large halls for amusement
purposes. theatricais. nor any surfeit of
public houses. the first warder possessed
many other facilities for the enjoyment of
life. and could toast of hunting and fish
ing grounds at no great distance from his
hCme.
Like the city portion, the market was
the principal pont-tffe business and po-
litical center. The old West Market, erect
ed by the corporation soon after the operi-
Ing of the century. was an interesting old
building. 1t occupied the reservation on
the north side of Pennsylvania avenue fac
ing 20th street, ard thanked by l street
northwest. Probably this was the first of
the triangles formed by the avenues cross
Ing the streets that was put to a useful
purpose Originally the building was
brick structure of two Stories the lower
one fitted up for the market people, and
the other containing a hall. AS the popu-
laticn created demand for enlarged mar
ket accommodations. sheds were erected
and new stalls provided. For some wears
of ol6
Union FIR Company was housed in a
frame shed adjoining the building: but that
company. obtaining the lot at 18th and Fl
streets, erected the building row occupied
by the Veteran Volunteer Fireman's Asso-
Grafton and removed thereto. The Union
company had used the hall for meeting pur-
poses. and the bell in the cupola sounded
the flre alarms for that section. The hall
was literally a town hall, and the market
mouse general rallying point for the citi-
Gems.
A Patriotic People.
Not only were public meetings held
In the hail. but lodges and societies met
there. among them Hiram Lodge of Ma
sens, Friendship Lodge of Odd Fellows.
Marion Division. Sons of Temperance, and
the Brothers of Temperance. In TIL,
neighbcrhood the political meetings were
Eeid, and there poles and stands were
erected. and the claims of candidates pre-
sented. both in national and municipal
campaigns.
Though there had been early settlements
In the vicinity of the market along /
street and below the avenue, the spirit of
street Improvement did not become acrive
Till late in the 40s, ard consequently there
was but little change in the Topography.
indeed, the simple grading of street
WOULD occasion much favorable comment
Ifat this should have been the case when
IL is recalled that the first ward contained
many leading people of the CITY and ma
uch, seems 1nexplicable to the present gem
a. IL
old first warders were a patriotic and nnh
hc-spiritsd set, sustaining military and fire
companies and sending many volunteers
70 70 tne heid during the war with Mexico, to
say nothing of the war of the rebellion
Besides Rock creek (our western bonn
cary. the canal and river Slash r,, VIC
Gllilzed 10 carry off the surface drainage
ms stream entered the city between II,h
ana 18th streets, and. by n serpeutine
course. almost forming a circle flowed a
Iar South as l. street and westward and
northward to its outlet at Rock creek near
tne mead of I'D street. carrying with II the
drainage of numerous slaughter houses
gre OF winch was on Connecticut avenue
between l. and NJ streets. Into Slash RIM
Moved some smaller streams one from -
spring on the Boundary, now Florida ave
lear loth street, and another from
dheIe was much swampy land bordering
Siash run north of Massachusetts avenue
me only cemetery or burial ground" as
they were then called was what was
known popularity ''Holmead's" and off,
clally as The Western Burial Ground y
IRIS occupied the square bounded by 8
street, the boundary, 10Th and Goth streets
II was managed by commissioners for the
corporation of Washington For half :,
century, next to Congressional cemetery. il
, was 'he Leading city of the dead. and thous-
ahds OF bodies found there what was
thought to be their last resting place" 7.
proved, however to be but a temnorar ~
I.st: lor me land became too valuable for
nsortuary purposes, and some years ago the
bodies were removed and the ground went
Into the hands of real estate dealers
Hotels In Those Days.
There were but few hotels, or public
houses. in this section: the most noted was
the Franklin House, of VIM ONeal whose
daughter by her marriage with a cabinet
minister, caused storm in official circles
IL the days of Jackson. This was in the
twenties, located in one of the six build
iRgs on the north side of the avenue above
21st street, and was the leading hostelrv of
that day Lafayette on the occasion Of his
VISIT, was Danqueted here, October 10 1894
subsequently the Franklin House was on
the square east. In what was afterward
known as Gadsby's row on 1 street east Of
2lst street. Benedict Jost conducted the
FHst Ward House, at the southwest corner
OF pennsylvania avenue and 18th street
and he for a generation afterward was in
the same neighbOrhood. On 10Th street
east side. above 1. tavern was conducted
by James Frere. There were some othar
smaller establishments for the entertain
ment OF man and beast, mostly in the
nelghborhood of the market
The churchgoers had. as NAV no SIM
posed. less accommodation in the warl
than now: those of some denominations had
none and II was not unusual for the first
&ard families to walk a mile or two to n
Georgetown or down city church Ol5
St Johns. 18th and III streets. was the
emily Episcopal church, and then. as AZ
present. II had large and inffuentIaI CON
gregation. A plain brick edifce at the so,,h
east corner of 18th and G streets occunied
the site OF the fine edifice of the Germon
Lutheran church, known as the Concordia
Lutheran Church. and at that dav n dro,,.
ITS congregation from far and near. a
brlck building on the north side of I be-
tween 18th and 18th streets was the OuaEer
meeting house. the Church OF the Friends
This was replaced a few years ago nv n
much more imposing ediice. The Cojnrod
BAPTIST Society at 18th and l streets was
III neat brick structure. In the Iottar
part of the decade Union NJ E. Church MA :
built on the west side of 10Th street souIL
OF the avenue: and colored Methodisfs We
IN the Union Bethel Church on NJ h., 80
10th and 18th. now the Metropolitan