Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1897-07-03

FABRICS. That Is one way to put 1t. An
other way Is to say that trade demands
change. and that when a seasons out
put OF proposed changes has been intro
duced to the market there follows strug-
gle for existence and survival of the
httest to survive. with corresponding profits
and losses to the lucky or unlucky hackers
Of competing innovations.
Sh1rred sleeves have gone under "DaI-
matte epaulets. reaching from the collar
band down over the shoulder seam and AL
most heraldic in their flash and color are
on top. The Elton jacket has bowed TO the
storm and bobbed up serenely after its
passage as mess jacket 1t has shed
rolling collar. revers and lapels and comes
70 .ne front with a very high collar and a
woe open front curving away at the waist
and humoring the natural desire of the
shlft waist to peacock itself. Accordion
pieatlng has trfumphed. The amount of 1t
IN U.S. increases hourly. 1t won't stand
wear, but this Is point In it's favor from
a trade view. Its multiplication means
money Draped skirts are making a fight
for it. Their fortunes are yet dubious. At
5ne moment SKIRT trimmings figure as
draperies, but the skirt itself clings closer
than ever. Ruftles are enjoying unruttied
prosperity. They can't be too plenty and
there Is no limit to their kinds The cross
ed bodice will last till autumn II has its
season. like the warm weather yaudev1lle
The cape gets no more consideration. For
wear over thin gowns the zouave mantle
with wing sleeves has killed it's rivals and
seen them buried
Changes In Progress.
Some novel gowns prepared for garden
party and lawn wear illustrate changes
that are in progress. For q Fourth of Ju,v
fete on Staten Island has been finished a
silk figured muslin frock of pale yellow
over white silk foundation. Over the
surface of the muslin are scattered honey
suck)e leaves and clusters Of the flowers in
shades OF red. The design is woven into
the muslin in silk threads of soft color.
The skirt is about five yards around, and is
turned up a quarter Of yard at the hem
This deep hem is insisted upon with muslin
dress es, and another point is that the hem
must be thre1fold If there be no founda ton
skirt or skirt trimmings. The soft fuIled
waist is trimmed with frils of the muslin
covering the front under white silk bo-
Zero. which Is worked with Turkish en-
broidery in gold and silver and set with
garnets. The sleeves are drawn in to the
shape Of the arm, with shoulder frills
above. The neckhand and pointed girdIe
are of golden yellow ribbon. matching in
color the roses that trim the white straw
garnet, this little touch of rich color put
ting the stamp of genius on sngularly
charming costume.
AT wild rose fbreakfaSt' given at On
teora in the Catskills few days ago a
cool summary" dress was of very fine
and delicate batiste, with a mauve ground
figure with panSies- The skirt was trim
med with eight narrow founces edged with
lace, the topmost of which was set lust
below the hips. The front of the trim.
cIose-fitting waist was formed of perpen-
dfcular rows IT tucks alternating with lace
and narrow pufings. The opening came at
the left side under double ruche of the
batiste. The sleeves were tucked from
waist to shoulder puff. Mauve ribbon shad-
ing into purple confined neck and waist
and its color was repeated In q fiat hat COW
cred with deep green leaves and crimson
roses.
Radical Killings.
One Of the most successful of the SUM-
pleated dresses. without which no wom-
ans wardrobe is reckoned complete, was
worn by young girl who stepped ashore
from French steamer just in time to be
a guest at one of the last Of the June we'd
dings. Her costume, which hailed from
Paris, the home of such radical killings.
was OF an ivory yellow cashmere upon
which green ribbon an inch wide had been
sewn perpendicularly at regular Intervals
When tie material was pieatsd the ribbon
came below the pleats and was hidden
until breeze, q step. q quick movement
made the folds open and flashed the color
into view. The blouse bodice which wa q
pleated like the skirt, was crossed diaSon
ally by band Of lace Insertion, from which
q deep fold of lace hung. Iyory-tinted siIIr
was used for the belt. neckbarr3 and GOA