The record-union., 1897-03-14

the deep yoke, that is maze eltner
square or pointed, as best suits the fig
ure.
Among the handsome fabrics now be-
ing used for tailor costumes are faced
cloth in very elegant colorings and
qualities; fancy Oxford suitings, fine
bcucle effects in French camel's hair,
indistinct checks in silk and wool mix
lures, very stylish Paris-woven nov
city goods, genuine Scotch cheviote,
English serges and diagonals, and
creped cloths in light spring qualities
which are in no way to be confoundeo
with the obsolete crepons. The present
popularity of MORE silks, taffetas, fall
les; in fact, silks in all makes and OF
all prices is quite unprecedented in the
annaus of fashion, for they are now
used very extensively for lingerie, skirt
and bodice Innings, capes, jackets ana
accordion pleatings, etc. Lusterless
silk is rather out of vogue, although
it has its admirers and purchasers still
among fashionably attired women. Its
tendency to shine afer short service is
always a serious drawback to dull silk,
and is no doubt the cause of its lack
ing style of dress is eminently suited
to silk with a lustrous surface, as 1t
combines admirably with the majority
of dress fabrics and accessories now In
vogue.
New dress skirt models are finished
with f1ounces at the hem; with row at
ter row of tiny frills; with long over
skirts caught up at one side. Some nave
rows of gimps or milliners' folds at the
hem or are finished with horizontal or
perpendicular tucks, or they are corded
or Shirred at the top all the width
around, or only about the hips. Other
styles are arranged with fiat old-style
Scotch killings or five killings alter
nate with wide box pleatings made OF
! similar or contrasting goods. Entire
| skirts are cut in circular shape, then
accordion pleated; other shapes are
| gored or have fancy side panels, and SO
on ad infinitum, and there is neither
| shape, hight, style nor taste that can
not be exactly suited to this season, Tor
the dressmakers' heads are filled with
new ideas and suggestions, and at the
designers there are hardly two skirts
| that are alike
| Many of the newest bodiceS are
draped on the cross and are pctae,cd
| back and front. a lately introduced
| fashion is that of using a wide sash
ribbon of soft lustrous satin for cross
! ing the figure in the same manner as
| the blue ribbon of the "Order of the
Carter is worn. This on youthful
forms is effective and pretty in cream
white satin ribbon or in pale soft dyes.
Ribbans both wide and narrow are
| turned to account most successfully,
and on ornate and expensive toilets
are enriched by beads, sequins and
dangling ornaments wrought upon the
ribbon. The toreador waist-band cut
on the cross and formed of three, five
or seven apparently careless folds, is
most charming finish to a soft full
fronted bodice. The belt mentioned
looks best when made without any very
stiff foundation being simply swathed
around the waist, but of course on only
very slender, long-waisted women is
this arrangement possible. If the fig
ure is not SO shaped, the belt is far bet
ter made to form a point back and
front tapering from the side seam, and
so must be made on a we'll boned foun-
dation. 1t is also quite essential that
the color of the belt should be consid-
erably darker in tone than the bodice
as this lessons, in appearance, the size
| of the waist. On beautiful models de-
signed for summer wear are Louis
| Quinze sashes formed either of plain
| lustrous satin ribbon to be worn with
Powered organizes, India silk muslins,
etc, and of exquisitely dainty and rich
| brocaded Marie Antoinette patterns
accompanying toilets formed of plain
diaphanous textiles made up over crisp
| taffetas the shade of the gown.