The times., 1897-08-08
THE WINTER JACKET.


have had a convention. The object Of til,
meeting has nothing 10 do with stiike
orsweat shops nor anything else Of a philan
thlopie nature. The matter 10 lie dis
cussed was the inch ola The end Of III,
winter sacket. This seemingly trivial sub
ject has assumed an international import
snoe from the fact that The French and the
American manufacturers cannot agree upoi
the measurements.
There are The .sTwenty-four inoh-ers.
who represent extreme conservatism, the
Thirty inch-eTs," or radicals, and the
'sTGenty-seyen inch-e;s,' who incline 10
medium ground, and afe willing 10 com
promise Bot the extremists say they VIII
have no compromise, aGd as result There
viii ie Absolutely no CoTTect criterion 10
&c by in the selection OF winter wrap.
The manufacturers Nlnfe their way very
carefully. testing popular taste until some
accsdent tETns the tide in their favor
AMI mean while a Il lengths val he in vogue
Folks who want something different from
the spring jacket VIII prefer The longer
wTsp, boz those who are compelled TO wear
the sane old coat viii pIay for the con-
lin0anCe Of the bantam jacket until the
purse becomes neplenished sufficiently to
buy a new one.
The French coats, however, VIII have
some sort of uniformity about them and
this may lie enough Of an impetus TO set
the fashion in favor of the short coats,
1or the imported wraps VIII be of the
twenty -four inch sect.
EUt why DO we talk of coats and such
uncomfortable things III these days Of
''sittinE IN the hammock at a hundred
iEl the shade" wi fich Is love, 10y the way,
rs the wizard tells us in his famous song?
. Rettcr suited to the season is the subject OF
loose gowns and fans with their accom-
paninlent OF lemonades and ices. So far as
the gowns are concerned, they are allloose.
A ueht-fitting dress, or at least one that
has the appearance OF being tight would
be a curiosity tiIis sumner. The bodices
are nearly al "pouched" in front and
usually fastened at the side. The fastening
at the side viii be emphasized into a sur
plice in the autumn, and trimmings which
cross in the front OF the bodice are sure
10 be very popular. ! have seen several
models with lace trimmings forming a
perfect X across the front of the blouse.
Eolero trainings cross at the bust line and
Nevertheless The blouse with bands OF in
sertion running around horizontally is still
10 favor, and for 8 cool afternoon gown
nothing is pTettier or more easily made.
An ingenious young woman who makes
al her own clothes has Just finished
silk dress which cost her S175 in cash.
This sounds like a pretty big story and needs
explanation. The cash was spent for some
had been marked down to the astomshingly
low figure Of % cents a yard. Seven yards
was sufficient quantity. for the mate
rial was forty-two inches wide. The stuff
was almost as thin as organdie. and was
purchased to wear over a couple OF old
silk gowns which Lad become shabby
One " these was pale blue and the other
pink. and she had ribbon to match each
Arcund the bottom Of the skirt she sewed
a rufle Of cream colored NaIeuciennes
On inch and half wide, with band OF in
sertion above it. She had this lace on an
old pink muH dress that was too faded TO
wear, and besides trimming the skirt with
1t she put three rows across the front OF
the blot use, and a tiny ruffle OF lace and
insertion over each shoulder. The sleeves
We're shirred down both seams with mar
Aoh NANFNs csAt0 " tlE -ll4lSi4tQ at klt lanU
with bands OF insertion laid over pink or
blue ritbon taccording to the dress she In
tended to wear with in and little bows.
This costume may sound like the woman's
10 cent cake which w as 10 cheap because
she had eyerythingin the house, but every
woman knows the advantage of using up
old materials and bargains when pocket
money IS as scarce as 1T has been for the
= ~.
in It either.
White pique is Stntroduced into all sorts of
summer costumes. The newest combiaa-
tion is with red. Red always picturesque,
and with white it s particularly so, es-
peciaiiy v ben seen in the center OF green
Lawn or stining through the vfn nes Of coun-
try veranda. One such dress has plain.
white pique skirt with a bodice of reddenip.
TneTeis narrow yokc OF white with ii turn
over collar like some of the linen ones worn
now The bodice is gathered on this. and
Is fastened.o one side. Bands of fine white
braid run across TIE frontin military fashion
and end In Loops that project over the edge.
Hats become more and more wfnge dasthe
time approaches when the summers w;iIlo-ys
hnnewari Il :. but the win gsH are far from be-
ing swallows wings. They are immense
white wings with numerous points. inter-
spersed with loops and ends OF ribbon
Some OF the popular actresses at the few
theaters that are kept open all summer ara
making strenuous efforts TO introduce the
arrecle- or flarng hat. It has some roses
under the brim in front, an If 1t did not
nare SO widely would be almost a poke.
Unts1mmed sailors are looked upon as a
necessary evil and even those which ne |
ce~sity compels one TO Wear are Softened |
with white vel, which is merely tied |
around the crown, with the ends faliingover
the Lair a. the back
Biondesin blue out of date NOWADAYS.
The real, fetching blonde wears geraniurp |
pink' which is more brilliant than scarlet.
and pretty generally becoming TO fair /
beauties.
Gray { : also a very smart color for out
door costumes.
Cashmere VIII be farorite material as
the DAYS grow cooler, as it's soft folds
ran In Wen with the present tendency TO
dropping drsperies. Gray cashmere for
street dresses viii therefore be the ex-
tremeiy correct thing I'm early autumn.
Hats with high crowns are aIread y being
for the season of 1893.
1
nT7R n myyEn ~ ~