Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1897-05-20
NEW SHIRT WAISTS.
MATERIALS, coLoRs AND HOW THEY
ARE MADE.

Summer Dress Goods = Tucks and Bias
Folds In Slsirts-Bathing Suits Are Out.
New Fancy silks-New Ideas In Wraps.
The Empire Coat.
copyright, 1897. by the Author.l
Shirt waists almost obscure the view
of everything else, so many there are
and so diversified their colors and ma
terials There are waists of simple cal
leo, of percale, madras and Anderson's
ginghams, velutina and silks of dozen
different qualities, and besides all of
those are the lawns and organdies
Some of them are made with yokes
more or less fanciful across the backs,
while the fronts are gathered at the top
and bottom for sole ornament Some
have a regularly shaped yoke like those
on mems shirts, others the old fash
ioned garibaldi strap. but all have some
kind of a yoke across the shoulders in the
back. In one waist noticed that there
was quite deep yoke in 'front.' and this
was laid i'll a series of horizontal tucks.
Another had four clusters of narrow
tucks, five i'll each cluster, arranged in
perpendicular lines. The fullness they
furnished fared out at little above the
bust line and was gathered in at the
belt. One was made of tan colored
surah, the front laid in three norfolk
plaits. The back was gathered to a
pointed yoke. The sleeves We're, like all
those in shirt waists, bishop shape, and
there was high linen rundown col
lar, while the cuffs were Of the surah.
While the sleeves are all bishop shape,
half Of them have the bottom part Of
the sleeve laid in folds and stitched SO.
That gives a pretty slenderness.
All of them have cuffs, most of them
straight and buttoning, while the others
have fiaring cuffs of the same material.
They all have white linen collars, some
with the points slightly turned, but the
majority being the high rundown
shape. Leather belts one inch wide,
with plain metal tongue buckles, finish
them at the waist Small black ties are
the most fashionable. but many affect
colored ones. That is simply matter
of taste. The peculiar new Scotch ging-
ham in astonishing colors known as
the Anderson gingham is in high favor
for these waists. Let me see if can
describe one design. There was one
emerald green stripe half an inch wide,
shading into pea green and from that to
yellow on both sides. The ground was
white. Across the green stripes were
stripes of red, shading into pink, of the
same width as the green ones Across
the whole were fine lines of black. max
ing large plaid above the other, the
black lines crossing in the center of the
white blocks. It was brilliant and yet
toned by the black and white to some-
thing like beauty.
The almost universal use of the shirt
waist calls for skirts made with view
to wear with the waist and entirely
separated from it, that it can borrow
no beauty or grace from the contact.
Therefore we find homespun stuffs in
plaids of immense size and wide stripes
to wear with plain waists The plaid
waists look better when worn with
black or dark plain goods The skirt to
be worn with the shirt waist should al
ways be of quite thick material The
double faced venetian suiting is pretty.
1t is closely woven and yet quite light.
There are always two tones in 1t. Dark
myrtle green with red, brown with red
or yellow, blue and green and deep pur-
pie and green are some of the blendings.
The newest things shown for summer
dresses are the organdie velours This
is organdie with stripes or plaids of
velours weave. Silk warp bareges show
dainty new designs in flowers of the
most perfect appearance. Some of these
lovely goods show satin stripes of the
same color as the ground, and between
these stripes are dainty flowers scattered
profusely. Gauzes are made in plaid
patterns, and the wool gauzes are like
lace, with sometimes a heck of tinsel to
give them brightness The wool gauzes
are shown in every color. One wool fab
ric is called ribbon grenadine. There are
large checks all in solid color, and the
large plaid is of very gauzy and trans
parent stuff This is shown in dull reds
and in all the solid colors of the season
and also black. Much of the beauty of
these depends upon the lining. The
double moire grenadines are very popu-
lar. Another kind of grenadine has a
stifish silk gauze, with stripes of thick
silken weave, puckered like some of the
old style ribbon gauzes or seersucker
ginghams These make light and pretty
dresses. Nuns yelling in light colors is
among the prettiest of the materials Of
this season. This is made with deep
hem, hemstitched with coarse silken
threads This is intended for the finish
at the bottom.
Tncks are to be made ON many light
gowns. They always were favorites, but
were impossible on gored skirts. Some
enterprising genius has invented bias
folds stitched firmly on the upper side,
and these are applied to skirts where
tucks could not be made. They look like
tucks, and that is all right
had not realized that summer was
SO near until today. / came to about
1000, 900, more or less, of new bathing
suits. These were made of black or dark
blue silk, alpaca, mohair, serge, fan
mel or brilliantine and silk warp hen
rietta. The principal difference in style
or shape appeared to be those with
rufies or without The old sailor collar
in white serge over blue or red was
there again.
The skirts were cut with decided
ripple effect and scarcely reached the
knees. The drawers and waist were in
variablv sewed together and the skirt