The record-union., 1897-09-05

entire list Of browns, and yellow from
cream to deepest ecru.
A novelty recently seen in London
was a white linen dress. strapped with
brown holland. the revers of that coat
being faced with the same.
Regarding dress trimmings, it is posi-
tive that however much the skirts of
toilets of ceremony and handsome house
gowns may be decorated, these puffs,
frills, pleats and founces will be kept
from all tailor gowns that make any
pretensions to elegance and simple art
istic eject The French tailor. how
ever, unlike his English compeer, makes
many attractive concessions in the way
of smart and effective little additions
to the bodices of his stylish tailor gowns,
with also fanciful touches on the
sleeves, these seeming to create more
interest and dispute than any other por-
ton of the gown.
Panels are much worn on evening
gowns, where the rich brocades and vel
vets are particularly effective.
A pretty boating costume worn this
season, and still in fine preservation for
autumn use. is made of Russian blue
honeycomb serge, the five-gored skirt
having the very deep hem and the over
tapping front breadth machine-stitched.
The blouse is slashed. showing russet
cloth insertion between the interstices,
nearly covered with dark-blue soutache
no clo 4 of the
serge. the close forearm of the cloth.
A smart little gold-mounted russell
leather belt, with a small gold and rus
set aumoniere at the side. finishes the
waist The shoes. gloves. and melon
shaped cap are also of russell leather.
A folded stock of geraniumred velvet
imparts a touch of color to the gown.
Red is not seen on the city streets in
any great degree. but it is playing an
important part in the remoter regions
of the country, where youth and beauty
congregate for the gay summer months.
A gown especially designed for mount
ain climbing is of red alpaca, tucked
from hem to waist. while the sleeves
and short open coat are cut from the
material after it has been tucked in
regular horizontal tucks. A white silk
vest fills in the loose front. An Alpine
hat Of black felt or a soft Tam O. Shant-
err completes this decidedly up-to-ate
costume.
Stylish-looking Russian blouses fast
ening at the left side will be very fash
ionable this fall: these made Varlously
of cloth silk-warp serge, Nigogne, or
any of the new autumn fabrics. very
many of these blouses will match the
skirt, but the most elegant styles VIII
be formed of green. black, dark cur
rant-red, pansy-cOlored, or golden
brown velvet. silk-lined, and but very
slightly trimmed. These small garments
impart a rich effect to an entire cos
tune. and they will be worn over skirts
of brocade, satin, corded silk. fine silk
and wool materials. cloth. or, indeed,
any stylish skirt of handsome fabric
cut in fashionable shape and gracefully
The mess jacket. which is sharing
equal honors with the Elton in Eng
land. is much like the Elton, except that
if onens square at the front and may,
if desired. be buttoned uD to the chin.
OF course, it is cut off at the waist
Many of these mess jackets in scarlet,
trimmed with gold, are worn with white
gowns.
odd arrangements of pleated frill-
inc or lace are very much used on bo-
dices fastened at the left side. and
very dressy appearance is impaired to
otherwise simple costumes by the ad-
dition of a frilling or jabot of tinted
silk Joined to the edge of the overlap
ping side of the bodice. Geranium-
colored taffeta or cerise, for instance,
is used for the purpose on gowns of
soft gray etamine; the collar and fold
ed girdle made of the same.
New Jacket models from Paris are
from twenty-five to twentysix inches
long-an effective length-a trife
shorter than those made by London
tailors. They show both single and
double breasted fronts and closely fit
ted backs. The newest shapes omit
the center seam. throwing two forms
into one. and this single FORM after ia
pering to the waist-line, expands below
it. and is folded into a little box-pleat
messed to be very fat. A single side
arms The revers are rather short.
and the points not excessively deep.
\ stylish feature is that of introducing
a square or oblong piece of very rich
heavy guipure lace on the jacket just
under the chin: this laid over velvet
of some deep warm color. In this case
the revers that frame this piece and
the standing collar are likewise made
of velvet.
Colored wood sticks to match the
covering of parasols are one of the
seasons features The green, espec-
tally, are in great demand.
There is now every reason to belive
that Notwithstanding the continued
vogue of repped goods. basket effects,
hoaeycomb serges shaggy tweeds. etc,
some of the smartest autumn gowns
viii be made Of plain smooth cloths
Drap d'ete ladies' cloth. and double
faced cashmere have been used during
the summer season. and these are even