The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-07-17
ideas for dWnmen.

from experience. Take only half the
clothing you think you win need is the
first pointer of Importance. Most new
voyagers. in fear of being without some
needed requisite, burden themselves with
useless luggage.
Among the essentials for an ocean voy-
age are a warm wrap-a golf cape Is the
most popular-a comfortable dress OF
good design. rubbers and a simple fianne
wrapper to be used as a nightgown. Some
protest against the bother Of the steamer
trunk, declaring tina a large bag is suffi-
Gent for all the underwear and toilet ar
ticles needed for the trip. Others prefer
the trunk. packing in 1t at the end of the
trip the dress and wrap worn on board
ship, together with cushions and rug, TO
be kept at the Office of the ships company
until the return voyage.
For long car trips an easy fitting cap
to take the place of the suit, hat and veil
will be found a great comfort. The jacket
suit. with shirt waist of silk or cotton, is
the preferred style of costume. The
leather belt and chatelaine provide a
place for keys. smelling salts, purse and
other small indispensable articles and
change of understanding need not be dis
turbed from morning until night. To
AafSl L Es NV A@NA 49, O@%~ -
Z one of the secrets of comfort on the cars
in hot weather. A simple wrapper of
silk or flannel is the accepted night robe.
Serge, cheviot and mohair are the fab
RIGS par excellencn for travelling suits,
though linen and crash are quite fashion
able this season. These are made, like
the heavier materials, with tailor jackets
finished with pockets and reyers. A mixed
black and White linen crash suit has a
perfectly plain skirt. with a jaunty blazer
jacket, made with revers and turnover
collar, faced with black velvet.
These jackets may be worn with blouse
fronts, not to be removed, or with shirt
waists. Jacket suits are so very common
that those who like to be exclusive have
tailor-made bodices to match dress skirt
dispensing with the inevitable shirt
waist, though they are forced to allow
that the latter is the ideal style for tray
cling, which accounts for its prolonged
popularity, season after season.
One such suit of tan checked wool has
the tight fitting bodice made with a row
of straps each side of front fastening,
the pointed ENDS being held with fancy
buttons. The plated Norfolk waist is
also still seen among models intended for
travelling purposes.
Flat braid is about the only trimming
permissible for travelling dresses. 1t is
durable, stylish and easily brushed and
hence is allowable where fussy trim
mings would not be. A very noticeable
and at the same time a very lady like
looking gown from a we'll known Paris
ian house is of biege cloth, with the
skirt trimmed with numerous bands of
graduated brown mohair braid, the lower
one at hem being above two inches wide
and the last one being a. mere line. The
bodice is almost entirely covered with
the braid. The sleeves are quite plain.
So
Gray. brown and blue are the prevail
ing shades for tourists suits, but green
is also decidedly stylish this season, and
there are mixed green and black silk
parasols and other accessories to match,
as in case of belts and chatelaines, so
that one choosing this new color will
have no trouble to find all the needed
accomplishments
A rather dressy travelling costume is
of green mixed cheviot, trimmed witt
black mohair braid having a tiny gold
edge. The jacket opens at throat over a
plated linen chemisette-
Stout, middle-aged women will have
no difficulty this season, so great is the
variety, in finding styles of jacket suits
which are not only becoming, but fire.
ouently make them look smaller than
the usual bodice. A fine black diagona
suit. with blazer several inches longer
than those worn by slender women, and
with front bias seams in Jacket slightly
holding the jacket in to the figure, VIII
be found a neat design for even a very
stout woman. For those who dislike
black in hot weather there are gray mix
lures and dark blues.
If there is any one material that is
scoring more triumphs this hot weather
than any other it is black Swiss muslin.
They tell you in the shops that this has
become the fashion since the terrible
Paris fire. and that all the women OF
quality in France are wearing it for
summer mourning. with yards and yards
of crepe de chine ribbon.
But American aristocracy is happily
NOT in universal mourning, so our women
are wearing black Swiss over white SIX
slips and sashes of crepe ribbon, when
looks very like creped chiffon. OF course
the muslin is tortured into ruffles, and is
very much pldlleQ, one anu al AS
skirts being shirred about the hips.
One dressmaker of taste gave it out for
the benefit of a customer that the best
way to hang a summer skirt is to cut 1t
in three. four or FIVE perfectly straight
widths. These must be sewed up. sewage
to sewage, and then rows of shirring or
cordjng. or clusters of perpendicular
tucks introduced at one end. BY this
simple means the skirt, from the hip
down. hangs full and even and no goring
is necessary. Another fantasy of the
dressmakers thus late In the day Is thai
of tucking silk waists on the bias.
Tucks behind and before. tucked yokes
and tucked sleeves we have had ad nau-
seam. and now, by way of relief, the
needlewoman either lays tucks in a
waist front from the right shoulder to
the left side of the waist, all across the
bust. or she lays her goods on the bias
and proceeds then to tuck 1t. The effect
is surely pleasing, but the last named
method must be lone by hand, else the
goods will pull and the work be spoiled.
The tucks can be as wide or narrow as
preference dictates, and the whim now is
to tuck the back in the opposite direc-
ton. that is, from the left shoulder down
to the right hip-corkserew tueking, as
it is very appropriately called.
Il, ~nort;fv;u1 10 NOTE how many per-