The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-03-12
KEY WEST A QUEER PLACE.
Few Americans Live There-Great
Market for Fruit.

A man who recently has returned
from Key West, Fla, says the first
impression a stranger gets of that place
at the present time is that the city
has gone on a perpetual holiday spree.
Bunting flies from almost every house
top, and the colors are about evenly
divided between "Old Glory and the
emblem of the Cuban republic. People
of all classes and ages wear pins or
other symbols bearing the motto Gu
ba libre," and if Uncle Sam would only
nod consent or say nothing at all about
it the $4,000 patriotic inhabitants of
this seagirt isle would skip across the
channel and tack the queen of the An
TILES to the star-spangled banner with
out any more fuss Castillo del Nor
TO-" or MORO castle, is only eighty
seven miles from the government dock
at this point, and our swift cruisers
could cover the distance in little more
than four hours. The defenSes of Ha-
vana are absolete and out of date, and
a Cuban colonel, now here, member
of GOmez's staff, openly declares that
any one of our armOred ships could pass
the fort and take the city without diff
Guilty; that is, as far as the land de-
fenseS are concerned.
This far Southern city, lying almost
within the tropics, is the only town Of
Importance below Mason and DiXon'S
line that was never under the stars and
bars of the Confederacy. The popula-
ton is about evenly divided between
white Cubans, colored Cubans and
white Bahanians. There are not more
than a score of real American families
resident on the island, but notwith-
standing this fact the great mass Of
the people are loyal to the Union first
and to Cuba next. 1t is curious, though
true, that of all the houses, dwellings,
stores, hotels and other buildings that
dot the islS<d from one shore to the
other, not Ute of them has a chimney
or anything that will answer the pur-
pose of a chimney. Handsome resi-
dences and loWly novels are alike in
this respect, and from an eminence,
gazing out over acres of roofs on all
sides, one is at once struck with the
want Of something to complete the
symmetry of the picture. Wood and
coal or fuel or any kind are unknown
quantities, as the tropical atmosphere
furnishes at all times Of the year all
the heat required, and for cooking pur-
poses sticks of carbon are used, which
are sold by peddlerS, who hawk their
wares about the streets.
There are few stores, as we understand
such things, and no markets. Signboards in
Spanish will tell you where a barber shop
is located where to buy coral ornaments
There are not more than half dozen real
stores conducted on the American plan in
the whole island.
Instead of a market there Is daily auc-
ton near the government dock, where every
thing in the way of provisions, furniture
and fruit is knocked down to the highest
bidder. Bananas alligator pears and pineap-
pies are the commonest articles of purchase
and here ships from Jamaica, Cuba and Mas
sau in the Bahamas, unload their cargoes
and dispose of them at ruinous rates rather
than risk a voyage at this time of the year
to more northern ports. Quick sales and
small profits seems to be the prevailing idea
with them. AS a consequence Key West is
perhaps. the greatest banana and pineapple
market in the world. On almost any day
one can secure an enormous bunch Of bananas
ripe green, at from 10 cents TO 10 cents
and can cart away all the luscious pineap-
pies he cares to purchase a. l cent, 2 cents
or cents each. Directly opposite to the har-
Dor docks, on the farther side of the island
and facing Cuba, is a large dancing pavilion
called La Rrisa, where Monday and Friday
nights and Saturday afternoons public dances
are held. 1t has large broad verandas over
locking the sea, which make ideal promecades
and a commodous dancing hall within, where
those who desire can trip the light fantastic
to their hearts content upon the payment Of
a small fee. The very best people attend
these dances, and many go simply for the
promenade or to smoke or chat with friends
but should any one step even so much as
toe upon the dancing floor a dark-sIinned
Cuban is Immediately at hand with a profered
hat into which coin must be dropped.
There must be at least 5000 refugees in
Key West, nsn-combatants and exies from
their BONES, who dare not return under the
present Spanish rule. and who must await
the solution Of the problem one way or
the other before they can return and resume
their peaceful occupations.