The copper country evening news. [volume] (Calumet, Mich.) 18??-1907, 1897-12-11
GHETTO OF VENICE.
ON THE SIDE CANALS OF THE QUEEN
OF THE ADRlATIc.
quarter Given Up to the Race That Was
Recalled to Lend Money to the vene-
tians When They Were Dead Broke"
Palaces Amid squaior.

'i"" Sduuis anu torUuOuS StreetS-ln |
short, the Venice Of the poorer classes with
which we should make ourselves familiar
And this many tourists fail to do.
Prompted by the above reflections, we
selected bright morning for an early ex-
fursion to the ghetto, the home of the i'm
mortal Shylock and the bewitching Jes-
sica. Our gondolier, Giovanni fine
looking man Of graceful bearing and frank
manners, had already upon more than one
occasion shown himself well versed in the
topography of Venice, and we could there
fore let him paddle his own canoe" with
out the slightest misgiying of not reach
Ing our destination.
Upon this morning we followed for
short distance the windings of the Grand |
canal and then dived suddenly into one of |
those narrow canals that form an almost |
inextricable network through the city. 1t |
is like stepping from the bright sun into |
the shade
AS we glided on we observed that we |
were entering region of yet narrower |
canals and darker streets, and when, a
little farther, we again crossed one of the
serpentine windings of the Grand canal to
turn into the Cannareggio indications OF
| poverty and want met our eye everywhere
The streets on either hand were swarming
with motley, i'll nourished and scantily
clad population, who, unlike the usually
civil Venetian, followed our gondola with
an inquisitive stare. Impure odors and
unhealthy surroundings were evidently no
strangers here, and the benefcent effects
of fresh air and bright sunshine seemed
almost unattainable in the tortuous pas
| sages and i'll ventilated courts.
In a moment more our gondolier stopped
at stone landing and pointed to sign
over low doorway We were In the ghet-
to. A voluble little Hebrew met us as we
debarked and offered his services as cice-
rome, at the same time assuring us OF the
variety of interest In store and Of the ease
with which he could lead the way. 40
companied therefore, by him and our gon-
dolier, we began our pilgrimage afoot into
, the very heart Of the abodes OF the chosen
people. Guidebooks and personal inquiry
had warned us not to expect to find much
of interest in the ghetto as 1t Is today.
and, in fact, it has lost many of the pic
turesque and characteristic features that
made 1t famous 90 years ago
The Venetian Jews OF today are any
thing but suppressed and prosecuted peo-
: pie, and the fact that Christian and Israel
' tie live contentedly side by side proves
conclusively how little the differences OF
race and religion affect their daily inter-
i course. At present more than one OF the
: handsomer palaces are owned by Hebrews,
who can peacefully enjoy the privileges of
their wealth and citizenship 1t Is there
fore surprising that the majority OF the
: Jews Of Venice should still choose to dwell
e amid their squalid surroundings, and the
a only reason for their choice can be traced
I. a l.,,, .,,.1 In
=" tions of their forefathers And what a
J home The farther we penetrated the more
J. we were struck by the poverty stricken APP
a pearance of the place The atmosphere
seemed heavy and close between the high,
dingy houses, and the pavements were
anything but clearly, while the air was
q filled with the shrill voices of men and
!. women calling to each other, many OF
;, whom lounged before their doorways OF
= leaned lazily out of the windows. Every
where one met Syrian eyes and hooked
n noses, which, coupled with the cheap, care
" less aspect of the dwellings, and shops, re
minded one unpleasantly of pawnbrokers
establishments.
1t was evident from appearances ina
u the Jews Of the ghetto had not forgotten
p the purpose for which they were Gale.
" back to Venice from their exile in the III
= tenth century. At that time-a perio'
- of great luxury and cxpenditure-the mel
8. and women Of fashion found 1t an imper
alive necessity to have some means OF rails
ID ing money for paying off their debts. WIZ
m this end I'm view the banished lsraelite
, were recalled to become the pawnbroker
- and money lenders Of the city The url
In happy people did not light upon bed @
roses. Their return was the signal 10
fresh persecution and tyranny.
,o They were not only forced to live In TN
most unhealthy part of Venice, an exi
IL being prohibited by law and rendered III
~ possible by five iron gates, but they wer
otherwise distinguished from the Chris
tians by the wearing Of yellow DauR
i upon their breasts, not to speak or dile'
- ent shades and styles of headgear. ~
~ sides these arbitrary restrictions they wer
IL allowed no profession but medicine Ano
although all this has changed, IL Is nc
strange that, from mere force OF nap
through many centuries. the Jews Oh III
, ghetto should still bear the stamp OF tho'
pu occupations that were forced upon chei
Ike in the middle ages.
Az we advanced our guide kept up
steady flow of conversation, internihgne
n with countless extravaganza gestures
. that lt WAS al tllllcS uih'Su'e w
W his meaning At all events, there W.
es- nlepty TO observe More than one possip
Shylock and dark eyed Jessica crossed oil
path and for the moment distracted OF
DC attention from their noisy brethren
70. was in vain, however, that we glance
- into the air and upon the pavements L
the feathery remains OF geese the tat
which was formerly substituted by u
as Jews for lard. The devoted birds we
- evidently extinct in these quarters i.
Owing to the extreme simplicity OF q
- uhetto's topography 1t Is easy to onta
an exact idea Of Its limits during the TIN
IN that the Jews were kept under lock ar
on Iev. the cavities In the stone walls for q
TT hoits and hinges Of the five iron doors 0
ell inc still plainly visible
lly al that time there were no bridges col
m. municating with the outside world,
re- that the ghetto enjoyed complete 1901
ton. And both the erection OF bridges o.
.ha Anal adjustment Of the gates ga
sa- rom the italian independence after
1t battle Of Solferino ~.
fiji How greatly since then has the lou
Mo Venetian Jews improved when,
VIZ -, ...,,rod ma the chosen peOI