New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-10-10
TRAVEL IN THE DESERT.
TRIALS OF THE CAMEL CORPS PATROL
IN THE SOI,DAN

Weird stories are told Of the Camel Corps Pa
troll in the Soudan In these days. when the
heat Of the sun is intense that marching Is
impossible for either man or beast most OF the
travelling has to be done at night A writer
In BLACK and White describes the start OF
the cavacade in the early evening. when men
and camels are awakened just they have got
fairly to sleep.
THE camels know the word Of command as
we'll as the men" says the writer. and on
hearing the first word, while the rider Is put
ting his right leg the saddle. they start
an extraordinary ccncer. On the second word
each man jumps as quickly as he can into the
saddle while each camel vies with his neighbor
in the effort 10 he first on his legs. Now and
again man is too slow or the camel Is TOO
quick. with the consequence that the man either
falls onto the back of his head. or bangles in a
precarious position. gripping with both hands.
with leg over the saddle. and the rest 81
him hanging down. his efforts to climb up rem
dered abortive by the gradual slipping round
Of the saddle; for the plan on which nature
has built the camel is specially designed to
aggravate man. and the very tightest girthing
will not Keep the saddle In place under the
foregoing circumstances. The camel In the
meanwhile with its mouth open TO the fullest
extent SuOllS out OF the SIodiiHS anu
growing vociferously. 1t is weird scene, this
maroh hing nv night. The shadowy forms Of the
guides in front show but dlmly in the brilliant
starlight or in the last CLEANS Of the setting
moon: the dead stiffness all around is unhroken
save by the soft footballs Of the camels the clank
of a hayonet scabbard. OF the Intermittent rattle
of badly packed load Everything shadowy.
silent and ghostlike Suddenly a loud gurgling.
the British offcers-merely camel being halted
for the readjustment Of his load. And thus hour
after hour slips tedously by Ne men swaying
backward and forward backward and forward.
TO the undulating motion OF the walking camel.
until our backs feel broken and every bone IN
the BODY Of place Al times. when the
ground is good and there is moon. We break
into trot. relief from the walking notion
in the same sense that toothache is a relief from
earache for. whether walking or trotting. the
camels movement is In the highest degree mo-
notonous and wearying TO his rider Sleepy
work. indeed. but no man has yet learned TO
go to sleep on camel
THE BREAK OF DAY
Then. when the East is flushed with the ad-
vent of the rising sun. down leap the Arab
guides and say their prayers. while we continue
our journey. Our Soudanese soldiers. Of course,
cannot dismount for prayers and probably would
not If they could. Soon the guides overtake us.
and, their prisons ended take II In turns 10
favor with a song. and we all jog merrily
along. the men laughing and talking. the camels
stepping out and every one feeling freshened
and invigorated by the cool morning breeze.
One takes out biscuit or two and feels happy.
Even the desert tries 70 look beautiful In the
rosy glow Of dawn and beautiful It Is. too. for
about ten rlinutes-the hills and sand suffused
with the pink radiance Of the rising sun, and
the extreme distance shadowy and blue. melt
ing into the depths Of the brilliant sky. But AS
the sun climbs up. the pink fades and gives
place 10 the ordinary yellowsh white Of the
desert marked and streaked with black: the
distance appears definite and distinct the
foreground. and everything shadowy blue
vanishes. All is glare Higher gets the sun
and hotter, the glare more intense: the mirage
begins quvering over the surface OF the ground.
forming vast lakes all around. lakes with clear
~ defined edges, with rocks and shelving beach,
and In the distance the rocks and hills appear
as vast cities with domes and towers rising.
casting their reflection into the still waters. a
man in the sanity OF a well-flled water bottle
cannot understand how any one could be such
fool as to follow this will-o the-wisp mirage:
TO attract the poor wretch half-rnaddened with
thirst. You know how little girls at the seaside
tuck up their clothes and paddle? Well. camels.
with their riders. at distance have exactly
the appearance Of gigantic ladies engaged in a
like diversion. the mirage lending It's aid TO
heighten this deusion. In the mean time the
sun has got very hot indeed. the men begin to
hang handkerchiefs over their heads. British
of1c bflp nd tha nd
guides put their pet,coats over their heads.
AT last arrive at our hal'ing place,
whether at wells or in the desert The came!s
are unloaded and either tied down or IL at ,
wells where grazing is to be found. hobbled and
allowed to feed: tents are pitched. IL have
them. and a sentry posted if necessary. Some OF
the men rig up little shelters for themselves with
two saddles and a blanket, sticking their heads
under the blanket With their legs outside.
One Is pretty sharp-set by the time everything
necessary is done. and tins OF food pulled
out opened and eaten, there is no lettering over |
lunch. for after marching ALL night sleep seems
quite the most important matter on the face OF
the earth. But sleep won't always come. II
there Is wind. It Is A blazing hot one, and the
sand is flying: It is useless TO block up the tent
to windward with saddles and saddlebags, the |
sand gets in all the same: into your mouth it |
goes. into your eyes. up your nose. down the |
neck Of your shirt. rafting on your face and |
sticking to your pcrspiring skin. II there is no |
wind there Is no sand. and then one lies and |
gasps for breath Some prefer to put up with |
the sand for the benefit Of the wind hot though |
il is others prefer the blazing heat provided
the sand only stops In its proper place.
We had always been struck With the uncom-
dignity Of our Arab guides seat upon
a camel enhanced by the black robe he wore:
but or TIE occasion Of sighting the new wells to
which ne had successfully guided us he be-
came seized with access Of Excitement he
put his camel to speed rode up behind one OF
the other scouts. fired IF hOrrid yell into his |
ear and. dwelling his stick threatened to shoot
him. The surprised scout having pulled him