The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1897-08-05
ideas for dMo1men.

So many black and white costumes are
to be seen at the watering places that at
first sight it might appear as though
every one were wearing light mourning;
but colored collars and sashes soon re-
move that Impression. For evening
gowns, bluck and white striped silks are
very popular, and when the waists are
trimmed with big chiffon ichus are ex-
tremely becoming. A marrow stripe gown
has the skirt trimmed with bands of
black velvet ribbon put on In points.
The waist has a Marie Antoinette fichu
edged with valenciennes lace ruffles, and
caught up on one shoulder with a black
velvet bow, while the ends of the hchu
are left to fall at full length down on TO
the skirt. A belt Of black velvet ribbon
has long ends which are trimmed with
Jet fringe. Another black n white silk,
this with broader stripe, has no trimming
on the skirt, and the waist is trimmed
with ruffles edged with black velvet rib
bon, put on to form q bertha A pointed
belt of black velvet is fastened with
rhinestone or steel buckles.
For morning wear the black and white
striped dimities, enliyened with bright
collars and sashes. v a distinctively
smart look that insures their popularity.
One model has a iounced skirt and a
very full waist, well drawn in at the
belt. The sleeves are shirred. and have
three rufles at the top. Belt n collar
are of red velvet, and the gown, while
not expensive, has all the effect of a silk.
A black and white striped g~renadine Is
made with the rows of cording on the
hips-three deep cords. from which the
skirt hangs plain. The waist is full, and
the fronts open to show a white lace
jabot- Rows of cording in a pun at the
top of the sleeve are put over narrow
cords. A collar of pale blue MORE ribbon,
with belt and sash ends of the same. the
ends trimmed around with narrow Vail
enciennes lace. look particularly well
againt the black and white.
-.
For light mourning wear the black and
white gown are made up more simply.
and in the material itself the black
stripes are more conspicuous than the
white, while In the others the white pre-
dominates. Lace is allowable for trim
ming either the black or the white, and
the narrower Is preferred to the. wider.
White evening gowns of last winter
can be remodeled this summer to be very
satisfactory under the present rules of
fashion. A white satin brocade that was
well cut, but had lost Its freshness, was
sent to be made over, and came back
from the dressmaker's looking quite Xix
new. Skirt and waist were covered with
sheer white Brussels net, put on to hang
loose and full, according to "Harper's
Bazaar" Over this was black figured net,
the skirt having three f~iounees. the waist
covered with the net laid in pleats. A
sash of black satin with narrow belt
fastened with a rhinestone buckle finish
ed the waist, which was cut low, and had
rufies of black and white lace around
the shoulders, fastened at regular inter-
walls with black velvet rosettes and tiny
rhinestone buckles.
Tafeta silks of last year that were
not too defaeed to do duty in tina late
spring and early summer are now be-
ing utilized as, trimmings for the flow
cred grenadines. A well-cut and fitted
silk costume can be used as a lining
most satisfactorily, and even an anna
teur dressmaker will find 1t possible to
drape over the g~renadine or net; a low-
cred taffeta covered with black grena-
dine. or a check pattern. shows to great
advantage. The skirt has numberless
small ruffles, each edged with narrow
black satin ribbon ;the waist has ruffles
to match put On across the front of the
waist, which is full and hangs down
over the belt. The hack of the waist is
plain, but has some little fulness which
is pulled down under the sash. The
sleeves are shirred, and between the
shirrings are bands of the ribbon. A
belt and broad sash are of black satin
sash ribbon. and the collar is of the
same, with a high ruche at the back of
white lace.
A bright blue and white taffeta forms
the foundation for a, lowered black
grenadine made in much the same style,
but with sash and collar of blue in
stead of black satin. All these grena-
dine skirts are quite separate from the
Innings.
Light gray own are considered ex-
tremely smart, and are worn not only
by young girls, but by married women
The favorite and most becoming shade
is a light pearl gray, which, relieved by
trimmings of white, has none of the
trying qualities of the stone or purple
gray CANVAS dAia SIdIaiu6, pOpfll
gauge, mousseline de sole, and several
ether thin materials are used, smart
gown is made up over white taffeta
silk.
b skirt Ia tucked over the hips In
i've rows Of tucks, and the lower part
Of the waist is also tucked; the upper
part Is a yoke of yellow guipure lace
which extends over the puffed sleeves
In epauiettes. There are also deep cuffs
Of the same lace. A high collar with
white lace ruche and a 1ace-trimmed
white sash help TO tighten the effect
of the gray, and make the gown more
han ever becoming.
Another charming gray gown is OF net.
tucked from waist to hem, and with a
long white lace scarf, which is pu on
the waist. crossing over the bust, and
the ends falling down on the back of
the skirt. the front OF the waist is
flied in with tucked iaca-edged chiffon.
white, and is exceedingly soft and be-
coming in effect.
A pale gray cashmere Is made with
skirt trimmed with bias folds of black
and yellow satin A yoke Of yellow vel
vet shows above the uble-breasted
blouse front. which is trimmed with an
applique pattern of black and yellow
satin folds. On the yellow velvet yoke
II white lace applique.