Omaha daily bee., 1897-06-06

: people who dEue in Byron's dream Of the
| famine. But IL you have il and cannot
! lay it by for a harmonious catastrophe.
then trim il with velvet. Thus the eye
will find on its surface a little repose.
TENDENCIES.
There Is a constant effort TO get away from
the puH at the top Of the sleeve and all
re niniscence OF the giEot form. Many sleeves
are quite fat at the top, and they no longer
look queer. jockey extends out from the
blouse. and quite satisfies the eye. Some
times a rufle or q rosette or Jabut Of lace
is set undef the jockey, with a novel and
pretty effect. The Jockey may be slashed
through the middle 10 allow the lace to pueh
through. At other times instead of Jockey.
there is a cluster Of ruf1Cs over the arm
hole. They are bound with velvet, with a
wire in the velvet. and so are made to stand
out with little stiffness But il should be
added that these novelties are principally
reserved for silk and cotton gowns. and
that wool and other uut-of-door gowns have
the sleeve with the usual puff. made very
small and a. simple as possible.
1t looks now as though the old and the
natural method Of closing the bodice a;
the front OF the neck would come back into
fsshion. The collar has run up SO high
that there is no longer possibility and can
scarcely be a pretense Of a fastening at the
back, The bow so long worn behind has
disappeared. and little by little the front
begins TO be marked. Some Of the dress
makers finish silk and cotton gowns with
q bow at the front OF the neck or with an
oxydized brooch TO match the buckle at the
belt Linen collars with d tie in front have
been worn for some time and tulle bows
have been spoken OF above. Ii will soon
be time 10 take out from Jewel boxes the
hreastpins that have lain idle so long. And
this return to what was once a mat er of
course has all the effect OF a brand new
fAngle
RIBBONS AND RUFFLES.
AS is usual in summer ribbons have taken
on considerable Importance The great
novelty is transp2rencies. On a foundation
OF colorless gauze are woven stripes OF green
rose, blue satin, in widths OF from q hair line
to half inch. and when this ribbon is gath
cred, or rufled or looped in bows the founda-
lion disappears against the gown and the
coiored bands stay airily in plsce without
any visible support Gowns trimmed with
| such ribbon give quite new effects. Thus
| black silk, the skirt ruf1ed with ribbon Of
| green stripes, on a foundation of black
! tulle, and the blouse made entirely OF the
ribbon in stripes running up and down. If
| this ribbon is not al hind, it is very well
| initiated by sewing narrow ribbon on strips
| o. tulle.
These transparent ribbons are used
| equally TO trim evening gowns of gauze
and tulle The idea is adapted also TO cot
tons and foulards by trimming the rufHes Of
| these materials with parallel rowa Of mar
row ribbon. Thus black foulard with a
pattern in rose has ruffies striped with rose
! ribbon.
! Ecru batiste ribbons striped with satin in
| color are used to trim gowns of ecru batiste.
| The ribbon and the ground being alike the
! stripes are thrown up in relief, The same
| ecru ribbon is used TO trim gowns Of silk,
! the silk being the same color as the stripes.
| Both these effects are novel, and are eX-
! tremely good. A model is an old rose taffata
I trimmed with ecru ribbon. striped with rose
urerOHp l-rn1fa 1af- -aA -hn ~
bon trim the skirt. and there is a blouse of
batiste. striped round with the ribbon under
bolero of the silk. The blouse falls low
over the taffeta belt in front. and the belt
rises high behind the pass under the bolero.
| a plating of the ribbon stands round the
back OF the neck, inside the high collar of
! the bolero.
! Organdie ribbons with silk embroidered
| dots and a silk selvedge are provided 10 trim
| orgs ndie gowns. These are best suited to
young girls and children. in whose dress
| they play very useful part.
FLoUNCES.
Flounced skirts have made some headway,
| and appear TO have conquered their place.
! Perhaps one skirt in twenty that one sees is
| hounced. These are in reality only yaria-
! tion of the shirred skirts of last summer
| they are the same skirts. divided into two
| or three parts. They are particularly used
| for veilings and foulards, but they are used
also for cottons and taffetas. Yelling
| founees are bordered with their own selyedga
! II ornamental, with q b2nd of ribbon
| taffeta flounces may have an applique of lace
| near the edge; figured foulard does not need
to be trimmed, but may have ribbon or vel
| vet stripes near the edge. model in foul
! ard is divided into two founces, each one
| shirred several inches deep, the shirring Of
| the upper one beginning at the belt. Dim
| nsr gowns of embroidered grensdine over
/ coored silk also are iounced.
ADA CONE.