Kansas City daily journal., 1897-02-07
TAILOR MADE SPRING GOWNS.
A Tendency Toward BustIes-Let 1t
Remnin n Tendency.

For a woman's wardrobe a tailor made
| costume is now as necessary as business
suit is for mans.
The new gowns this spring do not show
any radical points of difference from the
| styles of last year.
OF course, the tailor made gowns, which
are never extreme, do not show all the diff
ferences so much as the more trimmed and
| elaborate costumes and they still have
strapped, as preferred and as the strapped
are more expensive they are preferred by
most women.
All walking skirts are long enough to
clear the ground, and are of an even
length all around, with still enough flare to
keep them well out from the feet. Hair
not extend up so far in the skirt, while
there is evident disposition to use the
though it may be to thus expose the secrets
of the prison house.
Covert cloths are again to be the fashion
this spring, according to the New fork
Press, and just as smart as ever do these
costumes look. with the jacket quite short,
extremely jaunty and single-breasted, with
the buttons on an invisible flap, and mar
row, high revers, and narrow turned
down collar. Sleeves are much smaller
than last year, but in the same shape, and
gathered, not plated. into the armhole,
with here and there rows of gathering to
hold the sleeve in place. The back OF the
jacket is tight fitting, with full, but not
fiaring, skirt, but the points are loose, with
| just one dart to give pretty curve in at
tha waist.
The Eton Jackets are not to be discarded.
Checked and striped cheviot suits are to be
worn with the black jackets, and, while this
most useful one. The jackets are double
| breasted, but in all other points are the
| fac SMILES of the single-breasted ones. In
all black are some smart gowns. The coat
| is tight fitting and high in the neck. Ia
militaire, as has been fashionable this
winter.
| tailors make up gowns for less price than
at the height of the season, and as the
| styles for the spring and summer are al
| ready known, it is by no means Dad
| scheme for the really economically dis
posed woman to order her spring costume
now, as a tailor gown does not go out
| of fashion nearly SO soon as more elab-
orately trimmed one does. The black and
white stripes. which give such n slender
| air to the figure, are to be greatly IN Ia
yor. and while they are certainly exceed
! ingly plain, have n decidedly smart look.
A plain skirt, with narrow front breadth
and well gored sides, and the fullness IN
| small space at the back; tight lifting
waist, with laDels opening just bit to
show a glimpse of the mannish shirt and
necktie, the whole costume made of the
| black and white. is about as becoming
warm fur wrap can be worn now, and
yet be appropriate for warmer weather
| when no wrap will be needed.
Marvellous are some of the ready made
suits costing of course, much less than
when made to order, all finished with the
greatest care and attention to every de-
tail. Inc style OIL coat ana SRlrJ Is tine
best in these, and then the inevitable shirt
waist can take a new lease of life. In
rough tweeds and cheviots and in the diff
ferent grades of serge and cheviot there
are numberless costumes of this descrip-
tion to be had, while in more fancy styles
with braiding galore are many. many
more.
Machine braiding is Just a trifie over
done, and there is a decided reaction in
favor of just a little done by hand or none
at all Soutache and the different widths
of Hercules braid are the kinds generally
used when braiding is seen.
Large waists are said to be coming in
fashion again. but. curiously enough, it
seems to be the aim of all dressmakers
and tailors TO give the long, slender lines
and as small a waist as is possible with
any breathing power, and the lines of
braid on some of the new jackets are
most cleverly arranged TO taper in at the
waist and broaden out over the shoulders.
To be tightly screwed into a waist,
Jacket does not make the figure any
smaller, a fact it would be well for all
women to know, and a good fit, which
makes anyone look smart, always gives
plenty of room over the bust, and is only
tight at and below the true waist line.