Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-12-19

Sing holly now and mlStletOe.
And all resentment from your heart.
Sing the accessories which show,
And in this joyous day have part:
Sing help to him you fain would wrong,
And good to him you would deride:
Lift up YOU heart in JOY and song
And sing the Christ back to your side.
Frank H. Sweet.
Last week I saw some exquisite Partisan
importations of lace dresses and chenille
robes, of trimmings and velvets that are
at the very top notch. of smartness.
Chenille takes the first place, for TO be
without a gown trimmed or made entirely
of this sumptuous acework is 10 be count
cd in the rear, and not in the vanguard
of the fashions, says the Boston Herald.
Whole clinging trailing robes of this vel
yety lace in delicate rose. ciel. or gray,
come from the manufacturers with a
shaped skirt and pieces for the bodice,
and are extremely rich over lustrous satin
OF the same shade or Of white.
a pale violet robe OF this chenille lace
over white satin was recently designed
by n Partisan couturiere, the bodice pouch
ing over a tightly folded Sirdle of white
null. the long sash ends of which We're
tucked in line cords in quadrilles. as the
French say, that is, in oblique clusters
running il two directions to form small
squares. A diminutive white satin sleeve
was strapped with black velvet ribbons
to form "A wheel, a small rosette in the
center. and the white satin draped across
the top of the square corsage was twisted
Oh the opposite shoulder into a fiower-like
mass Of bows. A Louis Philippe bow of
black velvet, with a diamond buckle. was
10 be placed on the side of the coiled hair
just back of the pompadour as a base for
two violet tips-a very fashionable head
dress. one of which every smart designer
now sends home with evening dress or
theater bodice.
Shaped skirts of silk null are embroid-
cred with chenille. with bodice pieces of
various shapes to match, these pattern
gowns coming in a great variety Of eX-
pensiye materials. There are white silk
m~uslins. for instance. the skirts of which
are sprayed deliberately down one side and
about the hem with black chantilly lace
conforming to the design upon the shaped
skirt White null applique with cream
lace is pretty. and d black silk muslin
with white lace flowers is especially charm
ing built over a white silk foundation.
These pattern gowns range in price from
81 TO So. and really make inexpensive
they need only a bit of velvet about the
waist and shoulders to trim them sufii-
GENTLY.
Chenille dresses also come in the shape of
polka dotted black net. and are especially
soft and ciinEing. The handsomest pattern
is the sunburst. which is a soft black
net lavishly sprinkled with large black
chenille polka dots. a cluster of large suns
appearing at intervals upon the skirt and
bodice. these balls formed of a mass of
small polka dots. With sleeves and girdle
of brilliant crimped velvet and n lining
Of white ~taffeta- nothing i more disIin-
guished. ! believe these are less in price
than the applique muslins. and distinctly
the smarteSt thing Of the year for in
formal evening gowns and high necked
thcater tOilettes.
Last summer we built whole gowns of
null covered with u latticework of broad
lace insertions reaching from waist to hem,
each crossing having to be most pains
takingly treated in order to join the laces
neatly, the favorite way being TO use in,
serted diamonds of a coiored silk or of the
same null of the foundation. This same
effect can now be bought OF a pattern
frock, although II is still of hand work
Hdvantag" is that these pattern robes
make it poSsibele TO get such CONNECTIONS
OF American d~ressImakers, who can import
them thus half scwed cheaper than they
cal, have them sewed in this country
where labor is so high priced.
LattIces of narrow fur bands are user
a great dead. and of tiny null ruches
in fact OF every conceivable trimming III
vogue.
Plain nets can be bought in soft weaves
and are very faShionably built with ap
plications of these black Chantilly lac,
~lattices and of bands of lace Nandyk'
points, the effect being. even more fash
loldile lNdl lnt SIpil'itIOlS cl ldt' spray
upon net and muSlins. The plain net
are also used to partly form the bodicas o.
the chenille net skirts.
Every frock of any of these light it's
cues Is made up witt a chiffon lining be
tween ii. and the silk foundation both Il
give a fluffy 2irineSS TO the sheath-!ikt
foundation and to achieve charming colo
schemes. LAYERS of white chiffon be
tween a black chiffon lace and a blacl
lining. or a layer of black between tw'
wtite skirts. are both delicious, and eX
tremcly popular among the best designers
and colored Innings are softened and in
tenSified in splaSheS 10y these many float
ing draperies OF transparent tissues.
Evening cloaks and fur wraps have beer
lined for one season already. with count
less tiny null frills from throat to hem
an amount of handwork in the hemming
that has been leSsencd this winter h,
the appearance among the importers sam
pies of narrow scarfS of chiffon, with selv
age edges. of tuIle or of net. which ar
ruffled or plisse into these fashionabl
frilly Innings.
\ newer couceit. however, IS to line al
evening cloak with satin, and then vel
this 10y a second separate lining of chiffol