The morning times., 1897-01-31
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specUing and securing the latest models,
aud iii this way she spent two weeks in
Paris
The skirts of these gowns are in nearly
every case most deliberately trimmed This
latter style is the only fault that | found
with the toiletteS, and this because they
would not show to advantage the figure of
n small woman. And We must consider the
small woman in giving the stamp of ap-
proYal to any lyle that is to reign for there
are quite a number OF them, myself in
cluded.
The first of the gowns l inspected was
OF Venetian cloth in a new shade of grass.
green. 1t had three bands of chinchila
by way of trimming, arranged in deep
Nandyke points, the bands being about a
quarter of yard apart and encirCling the
skirt in a Horizontal direction. The bodice
is not like anything L ever saw before. 1t
has a deep corseIet OF jeweled passemen-
teric on cream satin, small emeralds re-
peating the green of the cloth surrounded
by mass OF tiny brilliants and silver Sc
quins. Sequins, by tie way, are becoming
daily more fashionable But to continue
with the gown. Below the iewcled corse-
let there are some quaint little basques
of cloth bordered with chinchilla. while
above there is a cloth bolero, very trinity
cut and edged with chinchilla. Around the
armholes are bands of soft gray fur. while
epaulcttes OF plain cloth, and very full,
are OF somewhat different shade OF green.
The sleeves fit quite tightly from the shouL
der to the wrist, a sure warning that the
Y fF "a haI 81 iG bp "a ~
ter of the front of the bodice is finished
in the dailties6 manner Imaginable, with q
bow of white satin at the throat and a
jabot OF fine cream lace a second bow OF
the satin being placed where the jabot
ends. Altogether the composition is a
masterpiece and makes a superb toilette
for woman with dignified carriage. L
suppose that 1 should look fright" in
it. and l must confess that / found some
comfort in the thought.
Another gown is made NEST effective by
the graceful use of astrakhan, the skirt
being OF sapphire blue cloth, arrange ed in a
series of graduated panels, each edged with
strips OF fur running from the waist To the
hem. A beep band of dark blue velvet
enciTCleS the waist, the upper part of the
bodice bling Of chine silk. arranged in
deep tuckS, running horizontally, and de
signed 10 have the appearance OF scattered
cornflower blossoms, and green caves, ona
foundation of the palest tCa-Tose yellow.
Strange to say, there is nothing but the
most perfect harmony in these shades.
The dainty bodice is half concealed under
double bnlero of dark blue cloth each
zouave being edged with astrakhan, and
cut into sharp point. The sleeves are
cut in three leaf-lIke epaulettes, cut in
points like the bClero, and edged with
Tiny strip of fur.
The taior-uade gown Of the coll ection
OF nut-brown cloth has u skirt that fits
closely to the figure from the waist to the
knees. II is trimmed Just below the knees
with three bands OF sable the fur encirclng
the skirt, and the bands being about six
inches apart. Below the bottom row of
fur is placed a full deep fIouncc of brown
Cloth, which sets off IA pretty foot in most
charming manner. The bodice is made in
a tight ing shape, with short, full
baSques bOrdercd with sable. and neatly
cut cloth reverS edged with sable, and
turned back To show waistcoat OF Louis
Seize brocade, the floral designs being
worked out in small silver Sequins- This
is u model that VIII suit almost any
kind of figure, and it is a particularly
sInart-looking model.
There Were also two loy ely princess
dresses. Now princess gown is one of
the most perfect styles OF dress, if there
is perfect figure underneath, orif a figure
can be made shapely by judicious padding
but such garment on a woman who is
naturally angular and thin, TO my mind
Is perfect al ominatI0n. We, in America,
am pleased 10 say, are aware of all these
things, and Dame Fashion allows us to
dress accordingly, as long as we keep.
within range OF the leading style. The
styles of princess robe is being carried
over into the summer gowns, and for
those who can wear them cannot recon-
mend anything prettier.
OF the suggesting of fresh fields of femi-
nine activity, there is LowadayS To end |
Almost every week seems TO bring with |
ltthc recommendation of some new employ
ment for women. A yet, however, no one |
has succeeded in proposing anything of the
kind that has threatened the supremacy
which the avocation of the professional
nurse continues to hold in the affections Of |
the woman with a mission
The nursing sister ofthe new dispensation
isubiquItous. Hertrm figure and denurcly