The record-union., 1897-07-04

! coming, are made with a belted waist,
crossed with guipure insertion of an
elaborate pattern, the belt and folded
collar of colored satin. The two
| founce or double skirt is finished with
! tucks and insertions of the guipure.
| The coat sleeves have Wristbands OF
the satin and turn-back cuffs of the
| lace
| A fabric imported for tailor gowns
for demi-dress wear is a new variety
of pure wool much like homespun, but
woven as thin and light as grenadine
in quarter-inch stripes of white and a
color-lilac, tan, reseda, blue, etc. This
soft sheer wool is made up over crisp
taffeta silk, and neat little model
formed of the goods has a seven-gored
skirt, a belted bodice with girdle, vest,
revers-collar, and sleeve puffs made
of satin the color of the stripe.
Cobwebby Indian-silk muslins are
| figured with shady leaves, vines and
flowers in natural colors, and even the
stamped organdies and Swiss muslins
are as charming in effect as some of
silk once worn by the beautiful Marie
Antoinette.
It is most gratifying to note how en-
tirely the former idea that any sort of
a gown was good enough to travel in
has vanished. Now, some Of the very
smartest costumes are seen in our cars
and steamers. The throngs of both
men and women tourists have almost
without exception a trim, taut and tail
or-fnished air, and this is a most
agreeable sight; indeed, it is now al
most a necessity. French women owe
more than half their prestige in the
matter of attire to the fact that their
! appearance is always pre- -eminently
suited to the occasion, and beyond this
is perfect as regards fit, finish and ex-
tremely careful attention to detail.
The newest and perhaps the ugliest
variety in millinery yet thrust upon
our eyes is the round hat with a mod
crate crown, but so fashioned that it
tits decidedly over the left ear, the
brim being considerably raised on the
opposite side, not alone by reason of
the tilt of the hat, but because espe-
cially designed to produce the reckless
! looking effect that is neither smart nor
| lady-lke-even though affected by roy
| atty, or because III is a replica of the
| Duchess of DevonShire' model so fa-
miliar in pictures of that lovely looking
woman. What might look extremely
! charming and picturesque on a beauti-
full model posed for her likeness might
look and would look pre- eminently rid
| iculouS on the beach or a fashionable
/ promenade on everybody in general or
nobody in particular. Both above the
brim and below it on the raised side are
masses of tulle and frequently the
/ hight is further accentuated by means
of an outstanding arrangement of rib
/ bon tied in stiff bows set one above the
| other and little apart If tulle were
not of almost imperceptible weight,
many hats piled, billowed and ruched
with it would be too heavy for tolera-
tion. But the new tilted hat, spite Of
artistic and sartorial objections, is
| likely to have a fashionable inning, for
! it is no more absurd than the immense
/ hats worn tilted over the nose during
| the past winter.
The beautiful shades of green appear
! this summer in great variety. Some of
/ the new tints are exquisitely delicate
| and beautiful, and combinations of
green with certain shades of blue, vio
| let, amber brown and many shades of
red are noted among Paris gowns and
millinery.
The jaunty, dressy, little bolero and
Eton jackets appear to be a special
! temptation to rather stout women. and
many of this type recklessly insist on
wearing them. The jacket bodice
closely fitted and not at all full in the
! skirt portion. is for these. certainly an
| Improvement on the Eton shape, or
any of the very abbreviated styles, but
a pointed bodice giving length and a
| slender effect is the best possible choice
| for the stout woman as long as she
| lives It never goes entirely out Of
! fashion. and even when at the lowest
ebb of its vogue it is by far the most
suitable and becoming model for her
/ to cling to. Trimmed in the prevail
! ing styles, it viii never look an unfash-
ionable garment.
!
A host Of beautiful gowns are await
! ing the slow coming of genuine summer
weather. Hitherto, it has been so
chilly that the pretty muslins and other
thin textiles intended for wear some
weeks ago are still hanging in the
wardrobes. So cold have been the June
breezes that even those most reckless of
health have not been tempted TO run
counter to Poor Richards advice in re-
lation to May and the garment.
Delicate Irony.
Once upon a time man who needed
! the aid of Fontenelle went to the great