The herald., 1897-06-20
keturning to the Dress Of
Catherine OF Russia
rHE EARLY VICTORIAN STYLE
4 NEW COSTUME OF CANVAS
MADE OVER SILK
Muslin Gowns to Be Worn Over
Changeablo Silk Linings-White
Serge Again in Favor

Special Correspondence to The Herald.
NEW YORK, June 14.-It seems as II
the idea of going back to other days for
our fashions was never to end. 1t is al
ways the old that is new now. The frocks
that our grandmothers wore are not In
favor, but those Of our great-grand-
mothers are ultra-fashionable. Here ie
an example that noticed the other day:
A white muslin dress In the style once
endorsed by Catherine the Great Of Rus
sia. Think Of going back to the time
of that woman!
This gown, which was made especially
to be worn at a garden party, had a
foundation of modern spotted muslin,
the fiounces and embroidery having his
torical interest The tablier had alter
nate rows Of Valenciennes insertion aud
narrow flounceS OF embroidery. At the
back were two wide. flounces of embrol-
dered muslin coming about halfway up
and descending to the tablier. A frill
of embroidery went down one side OF the
bodice and continued down the opposite
eide Of the tablier. On the other side
was trimming of mauve ribbon, COM
ing across in the same way and falling
on the skirt. The whole was made up
to wear over white silk.
One Of the prettiest ideas in the re-
turn to the early victorian period, of
which we hear SO much Just al present
is very elegant cloak. 1t Is made Of
fuchsia-colored velvet in cape fashion.
short in the back and having long ends
In fr0nf The Va1Vof ia 0OVarpd with
black chiffon frilling through which the
tints of the velvet CLEAN in the most fas-
cinating way. The lining Is of rich
brocads. harmonizing in color with the
material. For evening and general dress
wear nothing handsomer could be even
imagined.
Among other new hate for summer 1
saw some very effective ones for those
of US who are In half mourning. 1t Is
not particularly easy to find something
desirable In this line, so these merit 4
word or two. One in particular was es-
pecially attractive. 1t was trimmed with
number of tulle rosettes, white ones
on one side and black ones on the other.
From the center Of these comes
straight osprey with curled piece wav-
ing toward the back over a white ostrich
feather. Beneath the brim was bunch
Of white carnations tipped with mauve.
Another style, with more color In -it,
was hat OF violet straw draped with
mauve tulle and trimmed with masses
Of many-hued convolvuli.
A great consideration at this time of
the year is a gown that will stand the
wear and tear inseparable from the
gayeties of the season, and, at the same
time, present a smart and dressy ap-
pearance. One such costume is of ecru
canvas made up over blue. the canvas
allowing the color beneath to show
through. The bodice is trimmed with
embroidered lisse, the bolder flowers in
the design being also of the blue. Blue
chiffon, In deep, double frill, finishes
the front Of the bodice. The skirt Is
formed Of the canvas, entirely distinct
from the silk beneath and, is embroid-
cred all around the bottom. Another
frock, also very durable. is very open
check gauze of pale green, made up over
blue. and very handsomely trimmed
with guipure laid over emerald green
velvet.
Here is something quite original in
design. The material Is a soft silk,
printed In pompadour pattern Of pink
and blue. The bodice has basque effect
in front. but at the back is continued into
the center back breadth of the skirt, and
bordered with applique embroidery of
valenciennes lace worked with sequins
and beads. The sleeves are tight fitting
but widen slightly at the top, and the
bodice opens in front over light blue
chiffon. This is quite out Of the ordi-
nary and the effect is excellent.
If we have to be fashionable and want
to be economical at the same time, one
OF the incest ways to accomplish our end
Is to have gowns of thin material to be
worn over different silk Innings. One
charming summer gown of white muslin
which I saw had stripes of embroidery
and lace insertion let in at intervals,
and was made up over shot rose and yell
low silk. But It was quite distinct and
detachable. and could be worn over
changeable Innings. Another one, ar
ranged IN the same way, was Of black
satin spotted grenadine, with four or five
lttie frills at the hem. This was de.
signed to wear over black or white, alter
nately, at the owners pleasure. This
last IDEA is especially good, and practi-
cally provides two handsome costumes
at little more than the cost of one.
Some OF the gowns for evening wear
are very tempting-more so than soma
of US wish they were. White. alwavs
beautiful and suitable, is particularly
in favor for summer wear, and will be
extensively worn. A particularly pret-
ty evening dress Is of chine thrown on
a white ground, on which is a white bro
cade as we'll as chine design. It Is
made with bolero of silk lined with
satin and turned back, so that the sides
Of the Jacket almost form large, bold re-
veres Round the hem at one side the
skirt Is trimmed with white, cerise and
green satin bows, with ribbon intro
duced here and there. The sleeyes are
made Of single puff covered with kilted
chiffon.
For yachting and boating parties and
for general outing wear, white serge
holds it's own against all rivals. 1t is
worn both plain and striped, and the
ribbed serges, with pronounced diagonal
weaving, are especially recommended
for wear We will wear it in plain white, |
In white with hair lines Of color ard ~ !
dark shades, and any and all of them
are both stylish and serviceable. Tar
we have the white flannels shrunss ara
and many Of the NJ
outing costumes are being order q 80
pure wool. Some Of the new crear
ored stuffs have very silky surfaces "a ia +
brocadad designs. and heavy corder cot 4