The Roanoke times. (Roanoke, Va.) 1897-1977, 1897-09-28
FASHIONS OF new YORK.
Some Salient Features of the
Autumn Millinery.
A WIDE CHOICE IN TRIMMINGS

putantes - isroaucloth Visiting Gowns
Louis XVI Styles Seen Again-Winter
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES and Gloves.
copyright. 1897 by American Press Asso-
ciationl
There are felt plntoaus again for hats In
all tho pretty new colors, and these, like
those of eight seasons ago. aro pinchcd
into shape in all sorts Of Devices but now
tho effect is low instead of high. and :nc
trimming Is laid on in dropping shapes
Soft crowns arc often 'lct i'm to these
shapes, and they arc shirrcd, plated gath
cred and twisted into u hundred different
styles and FORMS Tho trimming consists
1t seoms, OF anything the millincr hap
pens to havo on hand when shu makes the
INT, for everything goes. Tho turban
drapcry, which is initiated in feather hons.
too, Is usually of light material though
satin, silk and velvet will also DO employ
cd as tho season advances, and, in fact,
the model hints show tho arrangement now
Tho manner of making these turban
draporiCS is to- tuck the material In the
finest plaits possible across tho goods
This is then cut on tho bias and the whole
twisted together in one roll about . inches
In diameter 1t wants tho stuff to be
about 10 inches wide Wide ribbon Is
sometimes used for these turbnn rolls
They arc neither pretty nor graceful and
look like somo sort of now kind of bird
nest Some of these turban rolls have diff
feront kinds of patterns, like zezags, lat
ticework and goometrical designs, put on
tho ground, whatever it Is, silk null, satin
or other tissue. These designs arc done in
worry narrow quillings of satin ribbon
Some OF the felt toquos and plateaus have
turbnn drapery mado of grass linen, with
flno hnnd wrought drawn work-so fine
that one would scarcely look for such on a
hat. noticed among the extreme novel
ties In millinery trimming fine and mar
row chiffon ruchings. These are sowed to
the edges of bright ribbons Some other
ribbons of brilliant oolors have the edges
bound with narrow black chantilly in a
delicate design. The ribbon is toned to
exquisite dolicncy by this process
Lace. black of course. is one of the hand
soonest and will be ono of the most popular
millinery trimmings for fall and winter
Where there is felt or velvet brim, ono
finds full, soft crown of some bright silk
covered with black laco In dolioate design
Some of tho black chantilly, when laid
over silk In this manner, has the design
picked out with fine jet beads Thero will
be quantity of jet used on theater bon
nets and such like millinery, but it will
all be of tho finest and best. Spangles,
too, will be much liked. but all small and
fine.
In millinery trimmings there is q wide
choice, which embraces almost everything
from tho flowers Of the fold to tho old
ROSTERS tail. There nro remarkable wings
where each particular quill stands out
nlono like the "quills upon the fretful por-
oupine. There are dropping plumes,
made of chicken feathers of every tint,
each one after it's own kind, and thero are
stiff little ooronets. The dark and notified
feathers wide and short, have the ends
clipped off square. These are considered
very stylish, and arc arranged In tho most
aggressive fashion imaginable. Some
black feathers, so very black that they are
almost iridescent, are made of tails, ond
these are curled in sharp curves and set on
both singly or in bunohes as is preferred
They arc handsome either way. Whole
birds, panaohes of quill feathers and
wings, are all seen, and they arc massed
in great numbers on the fronts and sides
of hats. Some queer looking birds of
hitherto unknown species are put on some
of tho fall millinery, ono noticed having
four wings--twO Of pigeon and two of
chicken feathers.
There arc somo now felt hats called buff
falo, in form not unlike tho nlpipos There
is no limit t. the colors in these. Some
arc mottled ind many are woven in with II
lighter shade of the same color-for in
stance, dull olive, with light grass green.
Many of these have q drapery made of a
square of grass lawn, in form OF hand
kerchicf, and this is twisted and tied in a
bow with sharp littlo points. The most of
these hats, however, arc trimmed with
great simplicity, n couple of wide, stiff
mottled quilts being best liked.
Some very pretty now fancics are being
displayed in mado up gowns for young la
dies in their first season out. Ono pale
pink silk muslin dress was made in
straight breadths all the way, and this
was tucked from hem to waist. The lower
tuck was about inches wide and the mar
rowest scarcely the sixteenth of an inch
wide, tho whole Of them growing narrower
toward the top. The waist was combi-
nation of lengthwiso tuoks and puffs. A
pretty evening shade of green, pistache,
was made in nearly the same way. The
style is becoming to slender figures. With
these gowns there were sashes made of the
same material with very narrow quillings
of chiffon in the same shade all around
Thorn. These sashes are yards long and
from II to IS inches wide. They are
brought to point in front and tied in
bow with long loops in the back. Some
prefer them tied in front or on the hip.
Tho beautiful now satin faced broad
cloth is employed to make elegant carriage
and visiting gowns, the most elegant be-
ing quite plain In the skirt. But, as that
would not suit every one, there are many
richly embroidered or wrought with braid.
Some have several rows of velvet around
tho bottom, Others band Of astrakhan