The herald., 1897-02-14

| in mind the following facts: There are
| two distinct varieties of the gem-Egyp-
] tian and Persian-and there is as
| much difference between them as sep
arates London fog from a Colorado
| spring day, when 1t comes to question
! of value. The Egyptian turquoise is
much like unto the blossom OF day
1t is OF great beauty and instantly
charms the eye, but it cannot hold its
color. In fact, to give the original color
three months life is exceedingly liberal.
| The stone either becomes entirely color
| less, or else is transformed to disagree
| able green, and it's value becomes MI.
| Furthermore, it cannot be washed at any
| time without running it.
| The Persian turqoise is as reliable as
| the sun. 1t is hard and light will not
penetrate it, Water does not injure it,
| and as the merchants say of all their
! goods of color. the color is fast, and will
not change for years. Naturally, they
are far more expensive than the Egyp-
| tian stones, and this fact is what makes
| it necessary for the buyer to see that she
| does not suffer from the greedfnesS of
the jeweler It takes an expert to dis
| tinguish the difference between the
! stones, and unfortunately the most of us
! are not experts. What we want is to be
| fashionable. We might just as well con-
| there is no denying it. Let us by all
means obey the dictates of our common
mistress, Dame Fashion, and wear the
turqoise, but incidentally, don't forget to
keep an eye on the ieweler.
Several of the large dressmaking es-
Establishments in New York are discuss
ing the idea of having an artist to de-
sign the costumes for those who are will
ing to pay for the genius thus devoted TO
hn; od This ic n
reality. but an Improvement upon the
idea OF Worth, the greatest of all milli-
ners, whose unwearied effort was to
make a. picture of each costume, some
thing different-entirely different-from
any costume that was worn by anyone
else. What delightful thing it would
be to go to a dressmaker and have
young man who, in every detail, showed
himself to be true dYtist, look us over
in that pensive manner so dear to the
heart and SO gratifying to the vanity. 1t
is just as we'll to tell the truth. All of
us are a little bit vain. though We try
our best to conceal it. Then how pleas
ant when the artist has thoroughly ac-
quired correct idea of our various
charms alas. our defects as well, to feel
that we will have costume that will, at
least, largely conceal the latter, While 1t
is sure to enhance the former.
Worth used to say that the lay figure
was his greatest aid. because with his
best customer he would have for each a
figure that would be, so far as the dress
maker considered, an exact reproduction
of the customer. Every one has peculiar
ity of form. for though compliments may
fly thick and fast, the absolute truth is
that the perfect form is as rare as dia-
mond in a coal mine. Forms are like
faces. They often seem to resemble one
another very greatly, and yet there is
always a difference. 1t will be seen that
Worths lay figure, resembling in every
point the customers own form, is but
the forerunner of the artist designer.
We have been led to consider the design
er as one who sits down at his desk with
all sorts of fashion plates in front of
him, and simply forms new combina-
tions or makes history repeat itself. The
new idea will change all this. The de-
signer that is talked of is quite likely to
have gained his taste and method from
the study of Murillo or Corregio. Per-
haps he may have gained a few ideas in
the Louvre, and mayhap, an occasional
memory of that very wicked but exceed
ingly charming locality known as the
Latin QUARTER of always gay Paris, may
help him out bit. An odd combination
for one who is to design dresses, you
say? Not so odd, after all. At least it
gives those ever blase fashionables who
are continually telling us there is moth
ing new under the sun, something to
talk about. Wherever the idea of the
artist designer has been broached among
those who possess wealth and are men,
bers of the court of fashion, nothing but
praise has been heard. 1t seems quite
likely that it may blossom from the bud
of conjecture into the full blown flower
of fashion, by the time that season ar
rives when DR.. Gilbert tells us, the flow
ers bloom that have nothing to do with
the case.