The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-02-08

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with grass, and contained the widest,
djrtiest lot of savages we had ever
seen. There were four men, three
women and three children in the boat.
They came alongside and the men
came aboard. They were large, strong
men, with high cheek bones, low re-
ceding foreheads and mouths that re-
minded you of trap doors when they
opened and shut them. The costumes
or both men and women were very
simple. That Of the men was merely O
coat Of grease and charcoal and a
string Of bone beads The women wore
rude garments made Of skins of ami
mails sewed together with grass. AS
for the children, they wore only what
nature had provided for them.
Although the weather was chilly
enough for us to wear our overcoat3,
the three infants didn't seem to mind
1t bit, although they were sitting in
water three inches deep in the boat
One Of them commenced to cry for
some juniper berries that were in grass
baskets in one end Of the boat. His
mother grabbed him by the nape of the
neck and soused him over the side in
the cold waters Of the bay. The child
stopped crying instantly, quicker, in
fact, than he would had she rocked
MIN in her arms and sang lula byes in
his ear. We rugged each of the savages
out In a full suit Of clothes. One Of
the men we transformed into a regular
dude, hard-boiled shirt, white linen
trousers, low-cut vest, large red neck
tie, stand-up collar tooth-pick shoes
kid gloves, bunch of keys on a big
brass watch chain, and, to crown all, q
big silk stove pipe hat Of ancient style
His hair reached his shoulders and was
cut short in the back. We gave him a
hat full Of hard tack, and he ate it like
O pig would eat out of a trough. We
put some salt pork and hard tack in
their boat, and, after having the men
go through a war dance on the quarter
deck, and when we got tired Of having
their company, we invited them to
leave, babe them goodbye and chased
them over the ships side into their
boat. Our dude was too stuck-up to
pull an oar. He sat in the stern Of the
boat and gave orders like a captain
with four stripes.
We were under way early the next
morning. We steamed out into the
channel we had descended the day be-
fore and continued on our way. We
passed the home Of our visitors of the
day before. 1t was a. large cave at the
foot of a cliff. A large fire burned in
the entrance and they were engaged in
preparing their morning meal, but
when they saw us they put out in their
canoe and tried to come alongside, but
we were travelling too fast, so they
gave us a farewell yell and returned
to their breakfast. They were evident
ly saving their good clothes for Sun
day, as they wore nothing but their
original coat Of grease and dirt
We anchored that night in Molyneux
sound, a large body Of water surround
ed by a low wooded beach, with blue,
snow-capPed mountains in the dis
taEce. We were no sooner anchored
than several large canoes, fairly
swarming with dirty, greasy savages,
showed off from shore and made for
the ship. We gave them several cans
Of hard bread, but would not let them
come aboard. There were too many
OF them, and they were too dirty and
filthy They kept us busy until 9
o clock that night trying to keep them
off the ship Watch them as we would,
some canoe would sneak up under the
bow or stern Of the ship and the next
minute the savages were swarming
over the rail and through the ports.
While we were driving them back into
their canoe another one would slip
up on the other side of the ship. They
kept this up till 8 o'clock. Then, see
ing that there was nothing to be
gained, they went back to their village
ashore.
In the morning we steamed across
the sound and entered another passage
with high cliffs on each side; the seen
cry was very much the same as the
day before, only the mountains were
becoming sterner and trees and flow
ers were disappearing, bare stone and
moss taking their place That night
we anchored in Puerto Bueno, a large
harbor with quite a stretch of sandy
beach on each side. We went ashore
a nr,I ~-%4 -
OF oysters, clans and shell fish The
next day we steamed out of Puerto
Bueno into the main passage again.
down which we steamed all day, the
passage getting wider as we descended
and the mountains on either side be-
coming rougher and bare of vegeta-
ton. We anchored about o'clock i'll
the evening in a large, dreary- looking
hay to the left Of the passage. 1t was
surrounded by low gray hills, with
large mountains covered with snow
far away in the background The name
of this body Of water was Isthmus
bay. Seeing large ffocks Of ducks and
geese at the upper end Of the bay, we
lowered boat and some of the officers
went ashore. They returned with a
large bag Of elder duck, brant and
geese.
The next morning we got under way
early, but the air became misty and
the barometer fell rapidly. After run
ming twelve miles we anchored in a
sung little harbor between three
small islands till the weather should
clear up. We didn't anchor any too
soon, for we had no more than secured
the chain when the wind began to rise
and in less than an hour it was blowing
gale. We sent down our topmast
topgallant and royal yards and dashed
all the chests and loose articles around
the deck and lay head to the wind.
BY the time everything was secure it
began to hail. The stones were not
large, but with the heavy wind they
came with such force that no man
could face them. The storm continued
for two days, but on the third day it
abated and we got under way, and
about noon we passed out of Smyths
st1 ats into the broad Magellan straits
We kept along the left bank of these
straits till nearly shutdown. The left
bank was high and mountainous The
right bank was visible on the horizon
just as the sun was setting we turned
to the left and entered a snug little
harbor nearly surrounded by high
mountains. Right ahead of us was one
OF the largest glaciers in the new world
The whole valley between two lofty
mountains, from their base to their
summit, was one wedge Of solid ice,
which glittered like cut glass in the
last rays Of the setting sun, but grad
ually turned to a dark slate blue as
the suns rays left it, but formed a
pretty contrast between the two snow
capped mountain peaks.
In the morning we attempted to get
up anchor, but the anchor was damned
between the rocks in the rocky bottom
of the bay, and the chain snapped
short off at the hawse pipe, so we
steamed out of the bay, leaving a 1000