The San Francisco call., 1897-06-27

There can be no question about muslin
being "the thing" 1t is the idol of the
day. Spotted and sprigged and plain, in
light and dark colors. in every Imaginable
variety of quality and pattern. muslin is
the material of the season. In delicate
shades for the maid and more somber ones
for the matron it suits all ages and COM
plexions.
We are going to wear it every ywhere, too.
For morning gowns we have it in cambria
designs, simply made so that acquaint-
ance with the laundry Will not be too diff
ficult or destructive. Nothing could be
prettier or more reasonable than this same
muslin, daintily made up with lace and
ribbon for afternoons, while for dress
wear, made up over glaee silk, it is not
only beautiful but presents very elegant
appearance and is quite nice enough Tor
any ordinary occasion.
am afraid We too often overlook our
younger generation in our desire to inter
est their elders, but here at least is one
gown especially intended for young girl
1t is made OF blue and white muslin, the
pattern consisting of undulatIng lines of
white on pale blue ground. The bodice
is simplicity itself, being Of the ordinary
blouse variety. Over this is a bolero of
coarse white Irish lace, cut little square
at the throat, hanging in square tabs, and
outlined with little frilllng of plain
white muslin. The sleeves are tight
fitting, widening a trifie at the top, and
are trimmed with lace at the hand. The
skirt is plain-trimmed, with a founce of
the material headed by a rather full ruch-
ing also of plain white. The belt is of
white watered ribbon, loosely tied in
bow at one side, the ends falling almost to
the bottom of the skirt.
The reason for the immense and incTeas-
ing demand for the finer quality of muslin
is obvious when we consider its wonderful
utility. One of the very prettiest and
most elegant tea gowns l saw was made of
this same popular material. The ground
was pure white with wavy lines of Nile
green upon it, varied at intervals with lit
tie bouquets of pink roses. This was
mounted over rose pink glace silk ano
trimmed with frills of pale pink chiffon
killed. The skirt was joined on to the
waist, the bodice o7erhanging back and
front. Around the waist forming the belt
was a lace sash with long ends, and
around the shoulders a lace collar was
crossed on the bust. In this particular
case the lace was that known as Duche ssp,
but less expensive variety could be made
effective.
The idea of wearing long cloaks in sum
mer is certainly brand-new, but we are
going to wear them just the same, espe-
cialIy at the seashore. Dame Fashion
says so, and it is a case of she speaks and
We obey. This season has seen so many
remarkable things and such striking
novelties that nothing can surprise US
much now. Most of the new long wraps
are very light in weight and really when
one comes to think of it there are many
summer evenings along the seacoast when
long and also a warm cloak is not to be
despised. The most stylish and alto
gether fetching one that l have seen is OF
black satin covered with jet spangles and
arranged in the new sun pleating, un-
lined, of course. The yoke is EN- mbroidered
with Jet sequins and finished with a full
fri!l of embroidered chiffon about twelve
inches deep. 1t has full SUM- pleated sleeves
trimmed with two rows of black chiffon
ruching, which also finishes the bottom
of the cloak. The hat is of black chiffon.
Killed, and trimmed with Jet sequins and
black ostrich feathers.
change which is about to descend upon
Us in the manner o: coiffures is not the
least remarka bic. We have borrowed our
fashions this year from almost all sources.
but chiefly from the early days of the
present century. 1t is certainly from
those good old days that the revival OF
bows OF hair has come back to u.s. The
loops generally stand upright, but NAV
lie more fatty. We hear something about
side curls, but this is only rumor as vet
1t is, however, a fact that jewels Iooped
over the hair will be worn again, lust as
they used TO be, only they do not hang
over the forehead, but are set further back
on the head.
The summer girl must on no account be
neglected, and SO we have some new hats
especially for her TO wear in the country
or at the seaside. They are o. plaid straw,
or rather of colored straw plated, so as to
form plaid. They have moderate brims
and rather high crowns, and are generally
trimmed with tartan ribbon. They are
quite novel and particularly stylish.
Another novelty was Louis XII hat of
gray straw with the brim turned m. tt
was trimmed with a twist of black and
white tulle with large black and white
bird set direct in front.
We all know how very convenient it is
to have some dressy trife or other with
which to make plain bodice biz smart
on occasions. Here is something which
we all can have and which answers the
purpose to perfection. 1t appears 10 be
simply piece of yellow RIBBON trimmed
with lace, but when on it completely
dresses the bodice. 1t forms a high ruff
at the back by means of the lace and
black embroidery. and falls down the
front in straight ends trimmed in the
same wav.
Another clever idea for neckwear is an
ecru lace scarf which comes from the back
around the neck and falls in front. Over
the shoulders are two large armholes
49, --5v=-S@<