The copper country evening news. [volume] (Calumet, Mich.) 18??-1907, 1897-04-29
Pr sTAURANT3 IN RUSSIA.
Thv fishes on which enc Dines-A Gas
tronoinic Luxury.


One of the most fashionable restaurants
in Moscow Is the Hermitage, and another
is the Moskoyski Trak,ir, or Grand Hotel
de Moscow, near 20 the entrance of the
Khitagorod. At both of these it is much
the custom to begin dinner at the table IT.
self with two or three commanded dishes
of the zatuska. A tablespoonful of the
shining, appetizing caviare, with slice of
lemon and "a corner twisted from the hot
kalatsch, accompanied by radish and an
olive or perhaps picked plum ana
with the inevitable little glass" leads to
the cold plates and "sauces," for the
Muscoyite chef serves his fish in the mid
die, not in the beginning of the repast.
| Among dishes of game the gelinotte is no
ticeable (the Russian ryabehik), but this
bird is more welcome in the disguise of an
| okrochka than cooked whole In may
onnaise also the ryabehik is highly pop
ular. This gelinotte, or double snipe,
has been very truly described as bird par
taking of the characteristics both of the
grouse and the partridge, with slight
underflavor-in which it resembles the ca
per cailzie-of turpentine. Such peculiari-
ty is no doubt due TO its habit of feeding
upon the tender topmost shoots of the fir
|
about every bird and beast, and they say
that the gelinotte had once the finest breast
of all birds, but it vexed its Creator, who
took this away and gave it to the ryper.
There is a preparation of mutton, styled
schashlik, which might be worth import
ing hither, and beef is curiously metamor
phosed from its British forms into the
{ zrazi, the shtoffade and the azu tatarsk
Kidneys, potchki, with truffles, may ap
. near along with omelets and cretes d.
COO mingled with sweetbreads in ragou
e or poiarski de poularde aux legumes,
t plate named after the hero who delivered
holy Russia from the tyrannies of Poland
The zarkoe, or roasts will include teJya
l. tin. e., veal and turkey, which is calle
J. indyk, the duck, ootka, the cock of woods
Is teterey, as well as, when in season, tn
;e quail, perepel, the dvoper and the tea
n cherok.
,. The dish par excellence, however, OF III
A. Russian bill of fare Is certainly sterile
n which, whether served en- anneau
O. Russe or made into an ooka or blende
IN with slices of sturgeon in solyanka, mu
or he recognized as notable discovery for a
travellers. The sterlet is a gelatinous, sem
n. stureeonlike fish, but much smaller tina
il. the sturgeon, having long, ugly no
Oh and no bones, but very nice as mat
of lotte, when, however, single portion w
n cost the guest at least ga rubles. A Sol
anka DIES sterlets is charged . rubles
.al portion, while the finest fried sturgeon
,le not more than third of that price. III
l speciality of the Volga river Is, past
1t question, great gastronomic luxury
ill white, dissolving, nutritious hesh mas
the delicacy of the trout, all the crispn'
Isl of the turbot, all the digestibility Oh
ten sole, united in a manner to make man!
at foreign sea and stream jealous, WIN VI
see good cause, of the cold and turbid Voi'
the The pleasant hot dinner cakes, area
the spoken of as kalatsch, should pe ea'
ere along with sterlet.-London Telegraph