davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

Holiday of G1f'si9s' d6eies fab5Iss. f25fsf'ass
On most of the styles ex-
O1IkS> elusive with us-and
not obtainable else
where. A silk dress pattern makes a
Christmas gift that never goes begging
Roman Striped Taffeta Glaze, in the
very newest styles and color effects,
extra heavy qualities at.-...... q ( rs
..............................S5c and , -
Newest Things in Taffeta, Gros
Grain, PopIin and Satin Plaid Silks,
all new designs and the most exquisite
color combinations .............. GOO
ST.oo, SIPS, $3.50, sI.75 and ~
Fancy jacquard Figured Silk-all
the latest novetieS-absolutely new
designs and shadings = unequaled-
values, per yard. GOO
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.. to ~
Black Broesded Satlns and Brocaded
Gros Grain Silks, not an old design in the
lot-extra heavy, rich, lustrous quality.
guaranteed pure Silks 81, ST. 25 and Sl5O
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28
Don't Postpone Christmas Shopping
1t Rains Everything Under One Roof.

lain entrance and shop here in comfort all day. Cafe
wrtngoom, avatories, nursery, emergency hospital
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28


emb edleers
OF
Mems Heavy and ess G9ves with claspnew 80
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-28

Christmas Books for
children, in PASTE
board COUerS, WlUalSo
be found in the Toy
Department, Second
Floor.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

cheaper. But no one goes there any more. Par,
and New York are the musical centres so far az
vocal music Is concerned" Then, correctioy
herself quickly. But when 1 say New We
don't understand me to exclude Boston, for
there are really some fine vocal teachers over
there. The living in Paris is not quite so expcn.
sivc as in New York, but a student is in a much
better atmosphere. know that you have heard
differently. for my pupils who have the craze Ia
study abroad have three words, Atmosphere
'repertoire,' and career The three thing,
they consider secured by studying abroad. IA
all three they are wrong, and. in none further
wrong than in atmosphere For the youny
woman who lives the life OF a music student in
Paris must be steadfast indeed to return home
as spotless as when she left it, and the influence
on the young men is even worse. That Is ons
reason why SO many OF our young people who 90
abroad to study are never heard from.
Way down in the heart OF every student OF
vocal music there is a thought. a hope for grand
opera. But the operatic stars may be counted
on ones fingers. and teachers should be careful
how they encourage that hope unless other qusi.
titles beside a good voice are apparent. When
those other qualities are there then the teacher
and family OF the fortunate one should see that
the groundwork Is laid before they encourage
the idea of going abroad. And while they are
abroad they should be as carefully GUARDED
against the atmosphere as against a plague.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
THE Uses OF CUCUMBER.
II Has Healing and BeaatifyinE Qualities
How to Prepare It.

fSon the Chicago ChroRicle-
Most OF the expensive toilet Injuries will b
found to contain cucumber juice. These hold /.
very important and expensive place. and just
now is the time for the wise housekeeper 10 pre-
serve their cooling and healing qualities. NOS
only for her own and children's use. but for the
comfort OF the pater also.
To make cucumber cream. which not only
clears and cleanses the complexion. but is also
very healing, proceed as follows: Remove ihs
soft part from two or three c~ucumbers. warm
sufficiently to make il squeeze through the col
ander, then squeeze through q hair sieve: 10
half a teacupful OF this add a teaspoontu! OF
glycerine and i've drops OF salicylic acid: both
the latter are preservatives. and If glyce-!ne
does not agree with the skin the salicylAte alone
will be sufficient. Add a few drops OF any per
fume liked and the ointment is ready for use.
While are plentiful II is well 10
have thick slices OF the softest, with the SOAP on
the washstand. and TO use after the former. 10
rub face, hands and throat. rinsing A~fterwArd.
The clean, soft feeling OF the skin will answer
for its future use. While tomatoes are ripe and
plentiful they are excellent to remove freck!es
and muddiness from the skin. A woman with a
pesch-like bloom on her skin declares she has
used nothing else besides soap from her girl
hood. A thorough rubbing of the skin once or
twice daily while the season lasts with a ripe TO-
mato will work wonders, and il this is found 10
be the very thing for certain compilations the
canned may be used occasionally through tie
winter; those canned nearly whole must be
chosen, as they are the least cooked.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

father that he would call on q certain day for
my final answer. when the day anne | made It
Q. point to be away from home, and Lincoln
didn't get over the way l treated him. Ny father
lectured me about it and told me / had made a
Ounce OF myself, but my mother took my part.
and said that II ! did not love him / ought not TO
marry him.
While Lincoln was counting me we were one
night at a little party where the young folks
were trying their fortunes with q Bible and a
door key. Mr.. Lincoln was always very much
interested In such things and at once he wanted
to know all about the game. 1t was explained
TO him that the key would be placed on q verse
In the open Bible and when questions were
asked the key was supposed to turn by super
natural power. Lincoln asked. Will Susie
marry a man whose name begins with L Z and
the key did not move. The he asked. viii she
marry a man whose namc begins with BIZ
and the key whirled. A young man named
Brooks was then paying me some attention.
whenever Lincoln gave any opportunity. and he
of Mr.. Boyce, whom 1 afterward married.
Il never heard Mr.. Lincoln make a speech.
and i never saw him after 1887. My father
scolded me 50 much for refusing his offer that 1
married rather sooner than / might otherwise
have done, in order to escape being lectured.
Ny husband was q friend OF 1ncoln's, and they
fought side by side in the Black Hawk war. I
draw a pension now by reason OF the injuries he
My husband and I went to Texas in 1s4a.
where l knew sam Houston well, and in 1852
we came to California"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
MI LADTS PARAsoLs.
she should Have n Dosen-How she Can cet
Along with Three.

AlonE with Three.
Parasols have blossomed out into a variety
and fresh importance in the realm Of fashion
which is really disheartening to all women e1.
cept the few who are blessed with unlimited in.
comes or a mind above the frivolous things o,
life. Fashion DEGREES that the up-to-date woman
must have from six to a dozen Of these expensive
trifies to harmonic respectively with her rari.
GUS costumes. but with three well selected shs
can meet all the requirements of fashionable
dress One should be of ~changeable or foulard
silk, or ecru batiste, another OF brocaded six,
and a third one of chi6o on or lace TO carry with
thin gowns.
The chiffon parssol is a thing of trills and
nun. which. is a puzzle to any one except tbs
ingenious designer who fashioned it In this
class OF. parasols there are various kinds simi.
larry elaborate, made of net, lace. and gauze,
and the handles are of gold set with jewels, with
rock crystal and enamelled heads OF tortoise
shell or some choice wood
Elegant brocaded and moire silks are used to-
covering. but there are all sorts Of less erI.en-
sive silk parasols in plain colors, plaids, and
stripes without limit 10 the variety. EcrQ
hatiste parasols lined with a color and trimmed
with narrow ecru lace are extremely pretty and
useful as well as good style. and a lacquered
wood handle is sure 10 be a desirable choice.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
ABRAHAM LINOOLN,s FIRST LOVE.
Mr- Boyee's story OF How she Refused q
Chance to BE the WHO Of q Preaident.

finance 10 be tue WIG OF q Preatdent.
CAIlsToGA. Cal, May o6.-The woman who
was Abraham Lincoln's first love, and refused
to marry him. has been long a resident Of this
town. Now she is Mrs. Susan Boyce, but when
she was Lincoln's sweetheart she was Miss
Susan Reid OF New Salem, on the Sangamon
River, in Illinois.
My father was one OF Lincoln's best friends"
she said in speaking OF her acquaintance with
President Lincoln. He was Lewis c. Reid. and
II was he who took Lincoln TO Springfield and
introduced him to William E. Seward, from
whom he borrowed the first law books he ever
read. Mr.. Lincoln and my father belonged to
the same political party, and they used TO talk
politics by the hour. l first met him in 1885
at the house OF a neighbor named Able. There
was quite a party OF young people there, and
/ remember that he seemed very bashful.
He soon began to pay me q good deal
Of attention, which pleased my father
more than il did me. for my father liked him
very much and had great faith in Il him. Mr.. Lin.
coin often took me out horseback riding and 10
singing school and church. He was a Spiritual
list and he believed in dreams. He often told me
his dreams were prophetic. He also talked OF
the stars a great deal, and l remember l thought
him a queer kind OF fellow. Still, he was very
entertaining, and he studied hard all the time.
"He was not as ardent n lover as I've seen
since. but he kept his case going pretty lively.
and pressed me hard for an answer. He told
me ! was the first woman he ever loved. and
that he was sure he could navcr love any one
else as he did me, and l believe he meant what
he said. I did not want to marry him, because 1
didn't love him. and so | invented n story about
being engaged 10, a, young man back in Ken.
his ardor for a little while. but he soon began
coming to see me again, and finally he told my
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
THE STUDY OF FOCAL MUSIC.
No Necessity Tor Going Abroad Except to Per
feet Advanced Opera Students.

"ct Ao'Aucea opefo student1-
rs 1t necessary for a singer to go abroad TO
complete her musical education r. The CUES.
ton was asked one Of New Works best.known
music teachers. Her reply was:
mo. IL Is not necessary, and, Furthermore in.
stead OF being necessary or a benefit, IL Is a posi-
tive drawback in many instances. When a singer
has been thoroughly grounded In music and has
gone a good little distance toward grand opera.
then it is necessary, and she should go abroad TO
perfect herself. An opera, to be perfectly sung
should be studied in the country where the
scene Is laid and the language spoken. There.
and only there. can one obtain the local color.
By local color l mean the same thing that you
do in writing the proper conception, expression
&c. Then. too. II the singer is for the concert
stage and is ambitious 10 sing songs in languages
other than her own tongue, she may go abroad
and study those songs in the songs country.
For a church singer or n teacher l not only
consider 1t unnecessary. but an absolute hin.
drance, to success. Whyi Because in Europe
opera is the only thing q singer is taught. And
why does a church singer want TO spend her
time and money learning how to scream a few
operas ! There are very, very few persons suited
to grand opera-lt takes SO many qualifications.
But there arc hundreds OF voices suited for
church singing and for the concert stage. I
have never seen q church singer benefited by 90.
s"e -. w u UtAlllInl
voices ruined by q year or two lessons with
teachers on the other side. "HN
have had pupils leave me and go to Paris
because i told them they were unsuited for opera
for FIRST one reason or another, and after a two
or three years, stay come back with beautiful
voices hopelessly ruined, and. what is worse
they would be SO discouraged as to have almost
lost their ambition. They had spent their
money; in many instances borrowed, for. I'M.
fortunately. IL Is, not often that a beautiful voice
i accompanied by a full pocket book; worked
ly come home feeling that they were not only a
source of modification TO themselves. hut IN
their families and friends. ="
1T was only a short time since one OF my pupiIs
returned to me with n voice hopelessly broEen
after two years stay in Paris under a reputable
teacher. Every time ! fancy l have pieced that
girls voice together in one place it breaks in
another. ] do not believe 1t can ever be cured
and ] advise her to become "a teacher, for 1 think
the hest vocal teachers are those who do not
sing themselves, having only the power 10 i'm.
part. Then there Is no temptation Tor the puniIs
to become mimics. and lose their ndiyiduaIity"
How about music lessons being more az.
pensIye IN this country than abroad T.
That Is all a mistake. Good teachers in ParIa
charge exactly the same that they do in New
York. OF course, In Italy or Germany they are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

but they are extremely stylish. To be quite
elegant there must be a skirt Of chiffon be-
tween the gauze and the silk lining. lnser-
tons Of lace or tiny ruches Of gauZe trim the
skirts. A gown OF this gauZc, in a peculiar dull
blue, patterned with white. has q white silk
ruche dress, and white chiffon between and is
trimmed on the skirt with three narrow ruches
of the same set on at some distance apart. The
same ruches trim the bodice crosswise to form a
yoke, and the shirred sleeves have frills OF white
chiffon at the top. White satin forms the belt
and collar. which. like the wrist, is finished with
pretty points OF Venetian lace.
In the new wool gowns the use Of checked silk
is very noticeable. and it appears in plated pan
els, vests, and sashes. For example. a dark blue
yelling has q vest and sash Of blue and white
checked silk. panels in the two front seams OF
the skirt. and slashes of silk in the sleeves faced
across with gold and fastened with tiny buttons.
A waist model shown is carried out in cashmere
d'EcosSc and a pale green cloth which forms the
under bodice. Thin black braid. closely inter
woven with iridescent threads of green Is the
trimming and tucked chiffon forms the vest.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
GOOD STYLE IN DRESS.
Charming Gowns to Be De-
vised for All This Season.
VARIETY IS THE FEATURE.
Harmonies in Gray and White
Very Popular Summer Fashions.

AnaninE Ability Shown by the Dress Designers
to Provide Diversity In Nodes-Suit the
style or Costume to the Figure IL the Rule
or the D~ay-skIrts and Their TrimminEs-
Tansta silks Very mach worn-Now Com-
binatious Of Colors ana Matertals-Tho
Rsusiins the Most Fascinating Gowns.
The most interesting element in the develop.
ment Of fashion is the fertile imagination of
tho dress designers, who meet the demands for
variety in summer dress with amazing ability.
The results are moro charming than ever this
season, since there are no extreme exaggera-
tions in the outlines, and anything in decoration
which is becoming and in good taste Is in order.
Such a condition in the affairs Of fashion helps
out the scheme Of Individuality in dress. which
70 always one Of tho secrets Of success. 1t is
necessary that the cut and finish Of the skirt
should give 1t the effect Of radiating out from
tho waist, and essential that the sleeves should
DO close fitting. with some sort Of small puff or
narrow frills at the top, but tho bodice will ad.
init OF every possible variation that fancy can
devise and still hold it's own in the ranks Of
fashion. Suit the style Of costume to the figure
Ia q safe rule when fashion furnishes such a
variety in styles.
Skirts mounted on n yoke OF some contrasting
material about ten inches deep are one OF the
latest fsncies carried out very prettily in q
white yelling gown lined with yellow silk. The
yoke 10 of yellow and white shot taffeta and the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
THE TEA GOWS.
Less and Less the Loose Garment II Was-How
The Modern One Looks.

The tea gown, and more especially the sum-
mer tea gown, has an irresistible fascination
for the aesthetic woman, and II she is a success
in this nGgliGG dress she understands the art Of
selecting her gown TO harmonic with her sur
roundings and reflect her individuality, as well
as the air of wearing ii with all the appearance
of never having considered the effect at all.
The modern tea gown has become less and less
n loose garment. until now tho most elaborate
editions OF this style of dress are more like a
fancy princess dress than anything else. How
popular style, and in this, as in every other
branch OF fashion, variety is the rule. Soft.
~clinGing materials are the most satisfactory for
this costume, and Japanese silk is very FASH
ionable this season. Whether this is In some
plain color or figured IL is charming made up in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

ments OF fashion and yet have il durable and
suited for varied and widely different occasions.
This is usually the most difficult thing to nc
so much worn this season help out this scheme
with great success. Another new model In tan
baregc or yelling. lined with mauve. Is trimmed
with narrow black velvet ribbon on the circular
founces which form the skirt and the frills OF
barege which trim the bodice. Tho yoke OF
mauvc silk Is covered with yellow Maltese lace,
and Is arranged in a sort OF reyers folding TO
one side where the bodice opens. Gray grena.
dine lined with yellow is a pretty combination
with a belt and collar Of yellow corded silk, rows
OF narrow black velvet ribbon, and ecru lace.
The most fascinating gowns in the summer
outfit are the muslins. and the daintiest sort of
evening gowns, as we'll as those for afternoon,
are made of organdie, especially in cream white
with plenty Of cream lace for the trimming.
The skirt is usually hung over a second one
of the same muslin cut exactly like the outside
one, and either plainly hemmed or finished with
a lace edged rutiic. The silk undcrslip. which
may be OF color or plain white, Is worn under.
meath this. One rather cnticing advantage
about the organdie gown is that It may be con.
structed on the most girlish and youthful prin-
ciplcs and still be quite suitable for matronly
women. Pale yellow organdie trimmed with
Valenciennes lace and made up over white is a
charming dress for a pretty brunette. II is
sometimes made very striking with q belt and
bows OF black satin ribbon.
Bertha effects are very popular on these thin
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

rufiie of silk are worn with these gowns. Plain
gray taffeta trimmed with Irish point lace,
white chiffon frills, and some pretty. becoming
color at the throat and belt make a charming
dress, and another fancy in glace silk
is navy blue, decorated with open-work en-
broidercd passementerie and a belt and collar of
cerise velvet. Barege in the pale shades OF vio-
let is a favorite material for afternoon gowns,
and one pretty example is lined throughout with
white moire. The bodice is tucked round in
rather deep tucks, but opens down the front and
back over q chemisette vest of gathered white
chiffon. which tapers to a point at the waist.
The belt is OF white chiffon, knottcd at one side
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

Among the pretty little coat models for cloth
and pique gowns is n bolero OF green cloth with
narrow revers of white silk braided with green.
A novel bodice for a pinkish gray cloth gown is
made OF lizard green silk tucked in groups of
three up and down and around the sleeves. Tho
wide collar over this is OF gray cloth with green
and white cloth on the edge, and the jabot and
frills are Of Brussels lace. The blouse bodice,
held in by Il white leather belt. is in pale blue
pique with a white collar trimmed on the edge
with braid. Another model for white pique has
u blue sailor collar, the skirts OF both being plain.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
L. He Entitled TO Divorce,

from The Bosfon EIVNinO Rtc0ri,
A man In a town just outside BoSton's suhgr'. 10
about to brins suit for divorce asains, his w!;c nj u
novel grounds. They have been married oul. i.rs
months. The wife in the case Is an attractive " amaH,
but she was courted ami won by her husband !arst '
on account OF her luSuriant and beautiful hair. -
compliments were showercd upon her hair prn'g>, '
before and after marriage, Now he has discr,'ui
that all but a few strasSling threads OF that hair -, .
purchased In a switch. Iii said that he mai. =
discovery about a week ago aud has NOT been .'..S
with his wife since.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

gowns, but the pretty model shown is trimmed
round with a narrow ruchc Of lace with one row
Of narrow black velvet ribbon in the centre.
Figured gnuzes and silky grenadines are very
desirable materials in these transparent effects,
but they are so much more expensive than mus
lin that they are not available for the average
woman. The patterns are mostly large. indie
Unable, shadowy shapes, which seem TO have no
design except to produce the effect of color. very
much like some OF the modern art in painting.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

band OF Irish lace around tho bottom, edged
with tiny loops OF black velvet ribbon.
Taffcta silks are very much worn, and one Of
the fads Of the season is to have a black taffeta
skirt trimmed with lace-cdged ruffles or rows OF
velvet ribbons. and two or three waists to make
variety. One for evening may be made OF black
net or chiffon over n color. and another OF the
silk trimmed TO match the skirt and frightened
with color at the neck and vest. Soshes Of the
silk finished on the edges with a frill Of lace or a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

Of open work embroidery. Still another gown OF
pale blue cashmere has a bertha collar OF blue
watered silk cut in square tabs and finished with
q lace edge and a narrow applique.
White embroidered muslin, with founces and
insertions OF Valenciennes lace, is the material
OF the next mode, and black and white striped
ribbon with a cerise edge is the finish. Valen:
ciennes lace is used on the cashmere gowns, and
a pretty effect is made by sewing narrow black
velvet ribbon on the wide lace for a finish
around the collar or yandyke yoke like the
model shown. Striped silks, which can be found
oftentimes on the bargain counter at O low price.
make exceedingly pretty tea gowns, and even
grenadines are employed for this purpose. One
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

II is said that buttons are now made from NIX
from which every particle OF cream has been ~.
tracted. Ingredients known only 10 some w,se
inventor are added TO this skim milk. and 81 no
end Of three days II is a solid substance ready ,
be carved into any shape.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06

Wings and flowers in combination are a fash.
ionable mixture in millinery. and white wings,
with yellow chiffon and white lilacs on a yellow
straw hat are wonderfully pretty.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1897-06-06
The Whins or Fashion.

II we would be quite in fashion according 70
the French standard. We must arrange the hair
very high on the head so that not one little bit Of
a coil shall appear below the hat. II must he
waved and putted out very full all around. oIi
the knot Is pcrrhed up on the highest point.