New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-09-22

and Deborah. David's combat with Goliath ana
Solomon's coronation. and The syenite naro''
are richly decorated with gold. In this cnufC"
there are The same splcndors Of ritual as III -
Isaac's and there are annual services OF thalhS-
giving for the retreat Of the French troops from
Moscow. Possibly these services VIII ne Hlod'-
fled. since France is now a compani"n-ih-ar'hS
and a faithful ally OF Russia. but they have been
since Napolcon's retreat a conspicuous feature %
the religious year in Moscow.
There is also the famous group OF cathedrals IN
the centre of the Kremlln. one OF which have
already described as the mausolcum OF the early
Cars The little Annunciation Church, with
It's many golden domes. stands close to the
palace and Is remarkable chiefly FOR It's
agate ard Jasper pavement and It's gi!ded
decorations. 1t is the church where the
Cars are baptized and buried. Back o'
Il IL the coronation Church OF the Assump-
ton which Is also small and crowned with hNe
domes The interior is as brilliant as profuse
gliding can render II: tho walls are covered with
frcscos: upon the screen are three OF the most
sacred icons OF the Russian Church. one 81 them
being attributed TO ST. Luke. and all being heaV-
ily incrusted with magnificent diamonds and
emeralds: behind the altar IS a Mount Sinai o'
solid gold; and in the chapels many sacred
4
splendent as is the church. with It's golden dec
orations 1t Is small. unimprcssve and unworthy
OF It's fame as the scene OF every coronation since
| the time of Ivan the Terrible Outside the Krern-
| lin there are hundreds OF fantasticslly designed
and strangely painted churches but most Of
them have a coarse and tawdry aspect.
The visitor who has travelled thousands ~
miles to see picturesque Moscow cannot b" put
OF with gmpscS or antique dwellings Ike the
RomanoT House. nor with distant Views Of the
city from so remote point as the Sparrow HIS.
nor with aimless wanderings in the noisy quar-
ters OF Kitai Gorod and Belo! Gorod nor with
cobblestone excursions to suburbs Ike the Pc
tro.skl Park with its tragic memories OF panic
terror He returns again and again TO the krein-
lin. and Invariably finds It disappointing in de-
tall 1t is an AcropoIs without A Parthenon-a
great dusty area filed in the main with unln-
pressive structures and miniature churches ana
without those startling contrasts of form and
combinations Of color which one expects 10 see.
The high walls are there. with their five gate
WAYS. but as the circuit is nearly two miles per-
spective is lacking and the kremlin has to be
taken little by little. The Treasury command
ants Offices artillery house and arsenal MI UP
one side and are ordinary barracks. The senate
and the two monasteres form an nconsruous
group on another side. The palace. the three
TOW cathcdras, the synod-house ana ivan
Tower are In the centre with tiny chapel
among the trees close 10 the river. The last IS
the main group Of the Krcmn. and with the ex-
| ception Of the sombre palace every structure IS
small and Ineffective when seen close at hand
THE POINT OF VIEW.
Tbera Is indeed, a glorious view from the stone
bridge over the river. which does much to re-
deem the reputation OF the Kremlin FOR pciur-
esoue beauty With the true perspective OBJ
tanned the unimportant structures are hidden IN
! rho BACKGROUND. The massive palace. the bulk
| Of which is modern and commonplace. becomes
| foil for the tumble OF Tartar domes and towers
| in the centre and VANS famous b"lfry looms up
| with a dignity and beauty which are lacking
| when one is standing beside the broken bell.
With blue sky above and the hieh wall ana
| fringe of turf and trees below as setting Tor
! ,hn nic,ure the golden domes fash and sparkle.
| and the fantastic contrasts Of red yellow. green
and blue are subdued into something ike har-
| ,oonious color scheme. The Kremlln. with It's
| n1inarets and dome, has radaft beauty OF
| colorinc when seen rom tine bridge below even
| urdAr the fun blaze Of the MONDAY sun, and
| with lcngfhening shadows by moonlight mere IS
| enchartment ike that produced 10y distance Tor
| the miniature churches expand into dignity OF
| nroporfIons the strong colors fade. ana IN" oId
| fortress is Ike a floating mirage OF Guy win
| oo,dcp towsrs This Is the supreme moment OF
| rho niIcrimagc IN quest Of The picturesque. Win
| chic beoutoous vision before ;he eyes. all that is
| renu,eIvc in the historical associations and re-
| ,ie,oua practices Of Moscow is momentarily for
| co,,en and the Krcmlin becomes radiant mem
cry and a joy forever
,rbere are certain associations which are
,riouc in interest even in Moscow. one IS re-
minded # them 1T the Treasury in the midst 81
N. enIondors Of coronation robes ana coacnes
| and the rcgala ard relics Of Russian soycF-
! oiqrtv for al the end e Of the halls there
| IL q statue. # Napoleon. it Is poor ok 81
s,u,ntrre lut il faycin3tcs the visitor ana Ill
vc.ts his attention from the remainder of the
| sock in This old curiosity shop. SO also IN me
| n,l,ca vb.n in, visitor has seen the Alexdn-
| dor :, George and -. Andrew halls and the
imperial 1,artrents. and has passed from the
| modern structure into what remains or that
| scene of tragcGier the ancient Granite faia'e
| and the Telem he letters In the Golden hooi"
| Of Jonah and the vladimir Hall and, hating on
the Red staircase. thinks Of Napoleon. Wh't
! matter il whether Ivan the Terrible was hIsht-
| ened 10y a comet after his reign Of insane
frenzy. or whether usurpne boyars murcereu
| their wives ard children in the I ,-rtar hareh'
| The one Azure With which the Imagination con-
| jures is the Man Of Destiny. whose sun set here
over the Kremlin after h. had seen from 'hr
| Sparrow Hills Moscow with its thousand low
|
| The guido. pcrceiving that tales OF Ivan are
| failing upon lisiess ears. points out bedsteau
! above the Red Staircase. and asserts that Ma