davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THE SHIRT WAIST OF roDAY.
1t Is a Striking Example of the Va
riety Fashion Can Furnish.

1t Is a Striking Example of the Va
riety Fashion Can Furnish.
The shirt waist Of the present day
Is striking example of what fashion
can do in the way Of furnishing variety
in even a comparatively small field for
operation. All the early rumors to the
effect that this servfceable article or
dress was to be relegated to the list
of questionable things certainly had
no foundation, II the hundreds OF
waists Of every sort and condition,
which fill every available space In the
shops and appear on every other Wo-
man you meet, are conclusive evidence
of popularity.
The very latest and simplest shirt
waist of cotton Madras, zephyr, or pei
Gale. is made almost like the summer
shirt worn by men, with plat in
front. pointed yoke in the back, and
very little fullness in the sleeves at the
cuff, which is plain and fastens with
link buttons.
The fashionable stock of black OF
some light color or the high turnover
linen collars are worn with this, and
also with silk, batiste and every 'other
kind of waist which can be classed
with the shirt variety.
The genuine tailor-made shirt waist
is generally considered the best style.
for something in the cut, fit and finish
Of it promptly stamps it as not in the
class of ready-n1ade shirts. Yet the
latter have improved wonderfully IN all
the points which go to make them a
success. The fullness in front OF. the
waist made to order is arranged more
on the shoulder, and 1t is fitted more
closely under the arm, both Of which
points help to make it more becoming
to the figure. Cotton waists of ging-
ham in stripes and decided plaids OF
rather vivid colors are prominent in
the display, with many others OF
ribbed linen and French batiste striped
with various colors and patterned over
the rosebuds.
All the varieties of linen batiste are
used for shirt waists, some Of the pref
tiest being those with embroidered
bodies and plain batiste sleeves. The
plain batiste bodice is usually orna-
mented with crosswise tucks forming a.
yoke or in groups over the entire waist,
with narrow lace frills on the edge Of
one tuck in each group.
|. Flowered organdie waists with color
ed silk or dinity Innings are very pref
ty, and corset covers in pale blue,
pink and green can be purchased all
ready to wear under any Of these
thin waists. White dim1ty shirt waists
are to be much worn, and they have
small bishop sleeve and turned over
cuffs The prettiest white waists are
made of wash silk or Liberty satin,
with two rows of narrow lace insertion
down either side Of the box plat and a
group of tiny tucks between.
The first waist illustrated Is Of LOU
isine silk with wide crosswise tucks
piped with white silk and worn with a
stock of white silk. Another shirt
blouse is made with wide box plaits and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

first Of its kind for nearly twenty
years. There was a waist of fancy
checked silk in blue and stone gray
and a dull, murky red. Over this was
the pfnafore. This was cut In princess
style, and the waist part was cut out
at the front and back, nearly to the
waist It was cut away under the
arms so much that the underwaist
showed like a figaro. In fact, there
was but a strap left over the shout
der. This part Of the gown of pearl
white serge. Around the bottom was
a pattern done In black soutache, ten
inches deep. A narrower line was put
around the edges at the waist. It
was pert and pretty frock
The days of chameleon silk have
been heightened, and I saw several
very pretty gowns Of it, sometimes
plain and sometimes yelled with net
or grenadine. One was of green and
crimson. The skirt was ornamented
with applications Of ivory colored Ven
etian lace This was in separate me-
and sewed on the silk in delightfully."-
irregular design, though the largest
pieces were placed near the feet and
one only was on the waist, directly in
front on the chest The waist open
ed down the left side under full
ruffie Of ivory colored lace. There was
an emerald Yelyet pointed belt, and q
toque hat was furnished with the
gown, which is for visiting. This hat
had series Of loops Of velvet all
around the crown, and in the center a
rosette Of ivory lace, topped by an i'm
mense bunch 81 tulips In all their gor-
geous colorng
Among the matters OF minor note I
oSsA
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

vet choux. For small post-Eastsr dances
young girlA will wear summer-like frocks OF
deliberately embroidered muslins, in which
entra-deux is introduced In graceful patterns.
The square deeolletage Is often relieved by .
yoke of lace All Of these dainty frocks have
ssawa. Tho rs SUI h,,,;,s ,sf
ices which fasten at one side of the front.
and almost any crossed-over effect Is good
style. Unlined silk and cotton blouse waists
are made in this manner, with groups of
tucks running around or up or down. The
frill which finishes the edge where the bodice
fastens Is of the same stuff, accordion plated
and edged with narrow lace. The Elton jacket
continues to be a favorite model for cloth
gowns. The newest cut is longer in the front.
and under the waist line at the back Is set q
circular piece Of cloth. About the waist II
worn belt or sash.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
WHERE SHE GETS STYLE.
Fashion Writer Goes to Big Stores
Instead of Spencer and Steven

EaSn1On ttTkteF UOeS 10 Dig SsOfes
Instead of Spencer and Steven
son.
She writes the fashion articles for one of
the monthly publications and gets more pay
out of it than if she were writing financial
editorials. She is young in years and also
young in the work, she talks much more
about her efforts than she works. All her girl
friends are besieged to show their prettiest
frocks and to the men she talks necessarily
of ruffles and lounces, boeros and hats until
they dream at night OF the Song Of the
Shirt"
and Immediately was claimed by the young
writer as listener of the latest styles of
Jackets and gowns to be worn the coming
season. He was politely attentive to every
word, and, having found such delightful
listener, she began to tell him Of her hopes
and aspirations for the future. 1t wouldn't
be long, she felt sure, before she would be
recognized as an authority on tulles and
mousseline de sole, and she was hopeful that
her articles would be recognized and copied
far and wide. The young man assured her
that he thought fame would surely come,
and when she told him that not only was she
anxious to have good fashions, but also she
wished to become brilliant writer.
'sThep of course, you read Herbert Spen-
Ger and Louis Robert Stevenson on STYLE,
he responded with laugh, thinking to help
her out.
"Oh, no, I haven't. and don't think I will
need to. / go to the dry goods stores for
mine"
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THE GUIMpE WAIST.
1t Is Very Conspicuous i'm the New
Spring Gowns.

Spring Gowns.
An up-to-date chronicler of modes states
that pretty style which is. conspicuous
among the new thin gowns is the guimpe
waist, which furnishes another opportunity
for tucks. In dainty sheer lawn, with mar
row lace insertions between the tucks.
which, by the way, must run crosswise In
in the new guimpe, 1t Is desirable addi-
ton to an organdie or batiste gown cut out
in pretty square or round shape at the back.
But these guimpes are to be worn with silk
and crepe de chine bodices as well, and
then they are made Of white silk or NOUS
seine de sole, and the neck Of the bodice
is finished round, with lace put on fat
pretty material for the popular fancy waist,
which still holds it's own in fashions fancy.
is Liberty gauze, in oriental colors and all
over indescribable patterns. Narrow accordion
plated frills of the same material edged
with lace, are the trimming, with sometimes
a vest of fine cream net with rows Of mar
row edging gathered on crosswise. Chiffon
matching some light color in the silk and
trimmed across with rows of black lace
edging makes another pretty vest, with
black edging on the silk frills which finish
either edge Of the opening. Watered silks in
tiny checks Of two colors are popular for
the fancy waist, and one model in violet
and white has white mousseline de sole
vest over mauye silk with ,jabot Of cream
lace down either side. Violet velvet In a
deeper shade laid in fine tucks forms the
belt and collar.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

midsummer that the best dressed
woman is the one IA plain tailor
made gown; but the productions of this
season are not confined to the simple
coat and skirt models. The English
women are especially addicted to the
severe style in tailor-built gowns, but
the French woman's tailor dress is a
thing of beauty. embracing every OPP
pertunity for decoration. One striking
example is a green cloth dress with a
yellow and green brocaded silk vest, a
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

petunia velvet revers, and q vest OF
black satin embroidered with black and
gold. The special feature of this waist
is the corners Of the revers turned back
on the puffs of the sleeves. The Elton
coat is part of black cloth gown, lin
ed with cerise silk. Black braid COM
mencing at the center of the back
points of on either side Of the front.
where it is fastened with steel but
ton. and the rest Is Of cream white bro
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02
THE BOYS ROOM.
As Artistic in Its Way us the One
Occupied by the Girl.

Occupied by the Girl.
A boys room Is often the dreariest of
places, scantilly furnished with the odds and
ends of the household possessions, but at
least one boy had an attractive kingdom. 1t
was hall bedroom, but in this case large
one with two deep window seats. The walls
were covered with red, gray and gold paper.
The room being 1ow-studded. there was no
frieze, but what was far more effective, there
was frieze of unmounted photographs, Ok
IL inches. These pictures included such sub
lers Of India Heidelberg Castle Wind
sor Castle" Niagara Falls" sGiant Trees
familiar in history and geography. Photo
school or home are especially prepared by
two New York art publishing companies at
size mentioned above, can be had for 60 cents.
This frieze at once lent originality to the
brass trimmings, spread of red and white
chintz exactly matching paper a.: window seat
practically hidden behind ruf1ed white mus
lin curtains An oak chiffonier had been
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

insertions of batiste embroidery show
ing between. Accordion plated frills
Of the silk edged with lace trim the
shoulders. A waist Of checked glace
silk shows tabled trimming on the
front and collar and cuffs of white silk
edged with lace.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

cade, cut V shape to show the linen
chemisette and tie, and is fastened with
one handsome button. A coat with an
open front has revers piped around
with folds Of cloth in contrasting colors.
and fastened back with two handsome
buttons.
Seaside tailor costumes seem to have
a special style all their own, and re-
vers, cuffs, and vest of white, or some
light-colored cloth, trimmed across
with braid, give the desired effect.
White cloth well covered with braid Of
different colors is very much used as
o trimming for cloth gowns, and the
plain white cloth vest fastened with
small gold buttons is very good style
with some of the coats. Many Of the
cloth gowns with the round close lifting
waists are finished with position ends
at the back.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

cred and spotted piaue, made in the
plain masculine style, either single or
double breasted, is well liked for morn
ing wear. but in more dressy effects
there is no limit to the diversity. Vel
vet and silk vests embroidered with
jet, Jewels, applique lace, and silk
braids are not unusual with tailor
gowns, but the tighter, daintier kinds
are more generally worn. Cream lace
net over white satin, with iabot
friIl of accordion plated net down
the front Is a pretty idea, and tucked
linen lawn trimmed with maltese lace
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

stained sealing wax and there was a quaint
arm chair in that same fashionable color.
The bookcase half-cabnet and half-shefves,
was Of bamboo and red mating, the cabinet
holding such curios and souvenirs as the
boy had picked up on HIS summer vacation
tours. An improv:sed wall rack held the
boys first gun and fishing tackle. A red and
white Bokhara rug added warmth to the gray
painted floor, The room was ideal and may
suggest a scheme of decoration to some
mother planning to fx up her OWN boys
room.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1897-05-02

,yfss the Lsng Distance Tsfephonc TO Mime.
seta, No. and So. Dakota cities ana towns
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
MAKEIED

BATES-MCNE EIL-In San Jose, November Is,
1897, Charles Bates and Jennie Mcneil, both OF
Tracy.
DoMINGUES S-SANFORD-At Nipomo, Novem-
her IA, 1897, Frank F. Domingues OF Nipomo
and Minna Luiu Sanford Of Guadalupe.
NGTON-HACKETT-In Salinas, Noyem-
Der II, 1897, by Rev F. B. Hatch, W. w. d.
rington OF san Miguel and Lizzie Hatch of San
Ardo.
FENN-STEW ARr-Near Arroyo Grande, No
venlber 10. 1897, by the Rev. c. H. Lawrence,
A!viA Fem and ktfie Stewart.
GROSS-STERLING--In IAN Luis Obspo, No
vember II, 1897 by l. =. Center, J. P, James
a. Gross and Carrie \. sterling both of Grover
HAMM ND-MONTAGUE-In san Jose No
vember 20, 1897. by Dr. Wakefield. William C.
Hammond and Ella Mont gue both of Oakland
HYDE-YOUNG-Tn this city. November %
1897 at the Howard street NJ. f. Church. bv
the Rev. John a. b wilson. D D., Henry c
HYDE OF Sonoma and G snevieve /. Young o.
Modesto.
WIS-BERNSTEIN-In this city. Novem ber
21 SS7, by the Rev. DR.. J. Nieto Daniel Lewis
anu Flora Bernstein
NEISSER-J co BS-In this city November Fl
1897 By Ia bbl Isidore Myers OF the Bush street
Temple, Edward Neisser and Celia Jacob OF
San Francisco.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
nj AkRIAGE LICENS K 5,

The following marriage licenses have been
issued by the County CLERKS office:
C. b. Middlemiss and Margaret Moyles, 23-2l.
Louie III. King and Ella olsen 20-l9.
Albert Blom and Rebecca Nilsen. 1928.
James w. Gibb and Beatrice Hays, 26-l9.
samuel g. Buck bee and Julia NJ. Crccker, 1923
a: Z Oullahan and atherine v. River, 25-23
Albert A brHms and Jeanne Roth, 35-23.
James NJ Toner and Harriet M keeuan, 27-ZS
Henry Elberiing aud Cresehs + cker 31-21.
Wi liam A. Sinnott and Mary Collins, 36-34.
John III. Larney and Annie Nj. Kirwin. 30-25.
Henry 9. Hyde and Genevieve l. Young 2S-25.
Ernest f. berio and Lizzie Hodge. 26-20.
Thomas +. Du1f and Cofdeia Snodgrass, 33--32.
freI o. Bowden and Helena Zaun, 26-!1.
Timothy Co"rorS and Mary Casey. 2S-23.
4. G. kierulf ana Georgiana Nightingale, 1924
Hugh h. McGlynn ana Margaret oiand 1851.
Emilio Vincentini and Azure la & Garberino, 27-lS.
Albert T. Wailin and ugusta {. OIL 23-20.
Harry l. Hockett and Marie L. Guye, $50.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
BOKN

GOLLY-In this city, November ID, 1897, to the
wife OF Edward V. Golly, daughter.
GRIfFITH-In Live Oak, November 20 1897, to
the wife of j. W. Griffith, daughter.
KNOWLTON-In Arroyo Grande. November 16,
1897, to the wife OF j. j. Knowlton. daughter
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 20, 1897 to the wife OF j.
Mahood, daughter.
NJ ULLEN-Novembe 20, 1897 to the wife OF
John G. Mullen, a son.
RYAN-November %, 1897. to the wife OF j. b.
Ryan, son.
RICHARDS-In Bucksport, Move m ber 10, 1897
to the wife of Mr.. Richards, daughter.
SCHULD1-In Tracy. November 49, 1897, to the
wife OF Jacob Schuldt, a daughter.
SYLVESTER-In San Luis Obispo, November II.
1896, to the W lie of X. J. Sylvester daughter.
SHAFER-Near Selma. November l6, 1897 TO
the wife of w. II. Shafer, daughter
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
-liAHhiiGks-DEATuS

Birth. marriage and death notices sent bv mail
will II OF be inserted. They must be handed in at
either of the publication offices aud be indorsed
with the name and residenceof pers ons authorized
to have the same published
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
ALAMEDA REAL ESTATE.
BERKELEY REAL ESTATE.

Q ACRES AT BERKELEY: FINE VIEW;
y close 10 local train; also acres with improve
ments: easy terms Partiou ars box 2, Call Office,
Oakland.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
INAWA ARE.

TALK ABOUT BARGAINS,
READ THIS:
Dinner sets, 80 pieces light gray decoration
with border per set, e4
Dinner set, 80 pieces, wild flower with pold
trimm mings, per set, Sd SO
Dinner set, So pieces, bellfewer decoration with
gold handles and trimmings. per set. S5 rs.
CHEAPEST PRICES IN AMERICA
CROCkERT, CHINAWARE, GLASSWARE
ELITE CHINAWARE A SPECIALLY
GREAT AMERICAN IMPORTING TEA co.
Stores Everywhere
So Market Street, san Francisco Headquarters
FREE.
BICYCLES.
WAI CHES.
CHINAWARE
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
OAKLAND FURNITURE EoR SALE.

w ANTED-CASH BUYERS FOR FURNI-
at The old store of II. sCHELLhAAS. 40S Eiev-
enth ST.. Oakland.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
CHILDREN BOARDED.

T ADY WISHES CHILD TO BOARD; GOOD
Il home and care. 9l51a Bryant st.
GERMAN LADY WISHES CHILD TO
~ board: good home. 4351e Hayes ST.
W ANTED-CHILD TO BOARD; A MOTH
w er's care. Apply or address z6 Cnattanoo H.
w lDnW WOULD LIKE ORR CHILDREN
w 10 beard; where there are no other children.
1909 Steiner Ut.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
LOST.

DIAMOND AND PEARL BRACELET. RE-
~ turn 10 I'll Folsom 81. reward
CTRAYED OR STOLEN-A LARGE FOX
~ hound black head, tan eyes; body and
legs a speckled gray: return and receive reward.
24l7 Folsom st.
7 OSI-A MINIATURE GOLD CORNET
- pendant. Finder please return TO Kohler x
Chase's store; reward.
A WEEKS NEWS FOR 8 CENTS - THA
q WEEKLY CALL. in wrapper for mailing.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
FURNISHED HOUSES.

HOUSE TO LET FOR 6
the university; a very oeslrab, e
j. j. Ma SON, Real Estate,
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
DIED

DIED
Abbott, D. D., Rev G. 5. Mantel, Mary Z.
Barrow, Mrs Harriet MarrOn, Michael
Becker, Katharine f. Mooney, James
bishop, cord on Moriarity. John
Boy ne, Mary O'Bren, John
Collins Thomas +. O'Toole. Or. Michael C..
Creighton. Oliver William J.
Dorm. Florence Owinss, Allen +.
Dougherty, James Phillips, Matilda
Falkingham, John J. Pot er. Lyman G..
Fehlem elcher Veronica Reg4n. Ttmo.hy
Hail. Henry G. Rey nolds, Mary A.
Hansen, Olga NJ. Robb, James \.
Hess Conrad Rodgers John
Hiester Zula NJ. Russell, James
Hill, Mary r. e. Ryan. Maggie
Hol n berg, George Schnorf Rudolph ].
Holmes, William A. sharp Mrs. Margaret
kipp, Mrs Anna f. Stoddard, David H.
McCord, John sullivan William f.
McEneany, Edward NJ. Taylor, Julia l.
Maher, Bridget Teaie Thomas
MaIlon, John Ward, Thomas NJ.
Williams Jr
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
BERKELEY

| FURNISHED
IL months; near
looa ity. Apply
| Berkeley station.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
Thirteenth Street.

nK. e. {. O'DUNNELG4 1906 MARKET, RES
~ 1854 25th sLi diseases OK women specially.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23

I ACRE AND MPROVkMENrs ONE MILE
L from Haywards, bar gain; $1275. PHILBRICK,
2739 Folsom st.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
0llnna Street

7 4 MCALLTSTER, a. X. BUILDING-RUOMS
/ studios, class rooms, en- suite, etc So mo. up
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
slOckton o5res-.

1H5 SILVER, NEAR FOURTH SUNNY
-, 80 'front.' rom and kitchen furnished for
housekeeping.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23

81 STOCKTON Mr.. PINE-FLATS OF 8
u uufurhished and furnished rooms; garden.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23

I71S STOCK ToN-2 NICELY FURNISHED
) - rooms complete; water ana sink in
4, chen; $40
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23
Market Street.
0IcA Ulster street.

10OC Markets ROOMS FURNISHED
V-D .ete, S12. sunny front suite, S12.
The San Francisco call., 1897-11-23

I BOAS, $50 MONTGY. ST.-LOANS ON LIFE
u insurance policies and buys bankbooxs
I OANS on real estate, bonds etc. /; lowest rates
l. MCAFEE BROTHERS, los Montgomery st
Arizona republican., 1897-12-16

In justice to man laboring und,e,
 guard against future outbreaks, Mar icopa county should place W. F. Mo Nulty on the retired list as a grand juryman, with half pay for life, on condition that he shall stay retired. A man who has served in this capac- ity as often as MT. McNulty has is liable to become so impregna,.ed with duty that no one will be safe when he is at large. He especially did him self proud during the session of the late grand jury. He has won his spurs, bells and all. Let him retire.
Arizona republican., 1897-12-16

for themselves or going into the American and German markets.
 The strike of tihe engineers in Eng
 land for an eight hour day has
 brought out the announcement sev-
 eral tim:s from the employers that they cannot afford to pay for one
 hours work each day that is not giv- en. nhey have discovered by an am
 pie test that the men are, not able. or
 will not do as much in eight hours aA they did in nine hours; henaa pay for nine hours cannot be given for eight hours. Competition upon the part of the rest of the world is too
 keen to make an increase of wages
 possible. Thsl shrewd FNenchmen proposed to contribute to the support of the striking engineers. on the face through unselfish sympathy. but un- der cover simply to prolong the strike in order to obtain English orders for France. The stril= is still under way. and the men are receiving a mere pittance every week. The strike funds available are running low and the l-mployers have given their u1ti- matum
 It is the pleasure of the democratic pessimists of this country to declare that the United States is a strike ridden country. When compared with England the strikes in this country are of minor consideration Our ter ritory is so extensive, and the fields of operations so far distant each from the other, that thousands of men can strike in one section of the country without affecting any other section In England, however. the trades unions hold the employers by the throat and strikes there are frequent and costly. The engineers strike. for instance, has disturbed business everywhere, and the loss to the man. cannot be estimated. The contend that British trade is slipping away because of the exor- bitant demands of the union, while John Burns, fhe labor leader, blunt charges that inbemperance has dulled the capacity and the intellect of the English wcrkmen.
 Between intemperancs and trades unions the English manufacturer have hard time of it. In the mean time the .thritry Germans and tihe so- Der. skillful and intelligent American workers are toiling and turning ou. goods that are in demand in all parts of the world. America is the haven tor the woraningman and the business is coming our way
Arizona republican., 1897-12-16
ENGLAND'S WANING TRADE.

Out of all the discussion concern ing the loss of British trade the one fact remains that England finds it. self every day losing ground to both the United States and Germany. There is no doubt, whatever, that Great Brit ain is losing it's hold upon the mar kets of the world. Even the British colonies are not buying as much om the mother country as they formerly did. They are either manufacturing
Arizona republican., 1897-12-16

In all the fears expressed for the fu- ture of Greater New York no appre- hension is felt that the head of the street cleaning department will be slaughtered. Having given New York CTS, for once, the luxury of clean strests, Mr. WariAg has become pop ular idol. Won't Nher ambitious of ficials ever take hint and try fear less and conscie discharge ot duty?