Evening star., 1897-05-08
A Visiting Gown Suitable for Sum-
mer Wear.
FROM A FAMOUS BRUSSELS DESIGNER
Striking Popularity Of P|eatings
and kits.
A S SHION'S LATEST FADS
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star
BRUSSELS, April "a, 1897.
We are pleased to note that our predic-
tions in reference to the use of laces have
been realized. Whole costumes are now be-
ing made up of Chantilly laces and are un-
equaled for their elegance, taste and rich
ness. e.
We place today before the American pub
lie visiting gown composed of silver en-
broidered Chantilly lace over turquoise blue
and white changeable taffeta. The narrow
close-fitting silk foundation skirt is covered
entirely by four deep full flounces of black
lace over taffeta, each fiounce being edged
with a narrow accordion pleating of black
chiffon. The pattern on the lace is outlined
with silver thread and small silver spangles.
The bodice consists of a short, square bo-
lero at the back, which lengthens in front
into two tabs opening over a high black
satin girdle laced in front. The bolero is
edged with pleating of embroidered law
ender chiffon, of which there is also full
ruche around the neck. A pleating of the
silver spangled lace also surrounds the
neck above the lavender chiffon and forms
jabot down the front of the bolero. The
close-fitting lace-covered silk sleeve has
epaulettes of four silver-spangled lace
fOunces.
Sunray Skirts.
Pleatings and kits vie in public favor
with lace dresses. A foundation skirt of
silver gray taffeta neigeuse "a novelty hav-
ing white sheen, giving a semblance of
snow, therefore called "neigeuSe," or
snowy has a pleated or sunray skirt,
striped with rows Of ribbon graduating in
width and of three shades Of rose color,
gray and silver. These pleated skirts are
called "soleil," or "sunray," dresses, be-
cause they cut in form resembling
bell, all the pleats being closely pressed at
the waist and then flowing out like rays,
widening as they lengthen down to the
tinue on the pleated loose blouse waist,
which closes on one side with two large
enameled silver buttons and a jabot of
real lace. silver gray velvet Waistband
with large strass buckle confines the blouse
at the waist line. The folded collar is also
of gray velvet. The sleeves of gray vel
vet and embroidered with silver thread are
quite close fitting except for a slight
puff at the shoulder. where they are ad-
dftionally trimmed by dalmatic epau-
lettes. The latter are SO named on account
OF their resemblance to the ecclesiastical
vestment of that name. worn by deacons
and subdeacons or by celebrant at the
altar. Dressmakers have made 1t a combi
naticn Of collar and epauiettes and Its
merit appears to lie III the fact that it
does Lot conceal the flexible motion of
the arm between neck and shoulders. No
body had thought of this motion before
dalmat1cs came in, and as to shoulders,
they have been nowhere since prodigious
bulge at the top of them positively ami
hilated every line admired in statuary. The
moderate puff now again adapted to the
upper part Of the closely fitting sleeves
tends to prove that when fashion reaches
the climax Of rridicule. 1t has either to
leIve the field centirely or to undergo re-
form, and considering all the pretty things
that are introduced for the top of sum-