New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1897-06-06

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THE SOUND OF CRISP SILK.
IT ALWAYS ACCOMPANIES THE WOMAN
IN FASHIONABLE ARRAY.

THE POPULARITY IN PARIS OF THE DRESS
Innings THAT LITERALLY SPEAK FOR THEM
sELvEs-oUEER FADS AND FANCiEs.
Paris May Is.
Paris has been we'll represented lately at the pa
vilion-covered Enclosure in the Tuileries Gardens
where all smart CANNES sitting on their launches
and waiting for prizes. 1t has been pretty scene
with its palms and flowers. with excited mistresses
ard adorers rusting about How mysterious 10 the
masculine comprehension must be that sound OF
crisp silk which comes from a wool or cloth gown
Dainty women in apparently sken array proclaim
It not. but in cloth gown. lining and jupon hum
with luxuriousness. Fashion this season has de-
clared that there is hin. OF vulgarity in silk
Innings which literally speak for themselves. aid
the stffcst and most gorgeous tafretas are hidden
under sombre wools and faced cloths. But the
same devo,ee OF Nine la Mode. in choosing her sum-
mer dimities and lawns. will have them mounted
over the fabric that composes the gown unless, :or
the sake Of It's enduring qualities she prefers an
undermining Of soft surah or Indian twill
PHILOSOPHY NECESSARY.
II takes philosophy to reconcile the average
woman to be contented with even the smarteSt
cloth gown made up over anything but gay SILK
lining. The difference in the first expense Is ittie'
and the philosophy consists in remembering me
ultimate fate Of all silk Innings. They are SO crisp
and pleasant at first so easy to walk In and 10 keep
perfectly clean But n cloth gown is destined for
deal Of use and II is no: long before treacherons
crack o. two appears in the SILK Ihesc may DC
mended at first but a promenade Is thon ATTENDED
with the possibility that sharp little heel may
catch where II should not, with ungracsiu' ana
sometimes dangerous results There is nothing fo'
II but return to the tailcr's for an entire new
lining, for which that master charges pretty
penny Ii seems bit OF sham. ana j. IS 'here-
fore hard 70 countenance the bulldog OF cicth
gown over a strong sateen and adding deep otst
hut hQ
gown and the renewing of the dust rune is an
affair OF little consequences one OF the iish
priced coutureres here told me once that seVera OIL
her wealthest clients would not be bothered win
a silk lining on a gown intended fo- service but
undoubtedly lesser lights on her books hardly dare
10 hint at anything elss.
CLOTH AND WOOL COMBINATION.
Some charming cloth and wool gowns were note1
on the opening day Of the dog show which had
the anpearance at least Of being built over the rich
est kind of silk and of course the silk pettcoat Is
always necessary part Of smart walking gown
An original effect is shown In gown OF mauve
cashmere. Over full blouse Of purple silk. on
which are embroidered tiny gold colored fgures is
a boero Of the CLOTH cut short enough 10 snow
several inches of the blouse. The Jacket sleeves
are only half attached to the armhoes. leaving an
opening at the shoulders through which the SILK
puffs. The top Of the sleeves and revers on the
Jacket are trimmed with black braid and a braided
pattern forms a curved apron the skirt A
simple but effective costume is Of bottle-green Goth
with a trimming OF white soutache braid running
down each seam in the skirt and ending IN cloVer
leaves The back breadths are untrimmed Tne
blouse full all about the figure. closes htt.e 10
one side with four pearl buttons and turns over
about the shoulders in wide revers faced with white
satin covered by interesting pattern done In the
braid. The chemisette is Of poppy red. and a tule
stock Is Of the same color.
We see lot Of this poppy red used and generally
tudicously used. 1t is strangely pretty uhoer
bright sunlight.
The Orchestra Philharmonique Of Berlin held It's
last concer, at the Cirque oliver last Sunday
afternoon. and as a pictorial sight II was worm
mounting to upper gallery TO look down on the
sea Of bonnets IN the big amphtheatre. The sun
light coming through the windows shifted from one
mass Of tue and flowers TO another. and when
raw struck this peculiar shade of red IT made 1t
almost blaze For few moments. during wait,
a tall blond girl was standing probably unaware
that couple of thousand eyes were looking at the
picture she made. She wore a pretty. quiet gown
OF gray and white but shaft of strong sunshine
struck on her hat Of peoples and red tule. Bright
red is warm looking. but 1t has a pleasant and be-
coming way Of taking color from the face. An
actress says that in changing tc red gown 1t is
always necessary 10 add trife moro rouge, and
So following this theory, which seems TO be
true a red hat is not unbeconirg fer the summer
months. In the country red sur is almost always
a charming touch In the landscape. The red sashcs
OF the peasants woulC be sadly missed IN french
country scenes and recollection of last summer
remaining In mind is a picture Of two young French
girls wearing red outing suits In Font anebeau
forest.
CREATIONS OF LINEN.
Among the models for summer gowns are some
delicious creations Of linen ana null, mace up
with two or sometimes three skirts o. the same
min stuff and depending on no other foundatioh
The result is charmingly soft and pretty. am as
the underskirt may be OF different shade some
soft pretty color effects possible. lawn WITH
O green pattern printed on white ground - huhs
over second full skirt Of pink lawn. whle INC INC
pink with lace trimming makes delicious rumes
On The white and green stuff, the color schefne
suggesting the incest kind of ice cream.
Another happy model is of black mui: huhg oVssi
blue the blue in this instance being a sol suran,
The black skirt Is shirred the hips TO hahg IN
full folds and s trimmed about the bottom VIA VIA
two hounces Of blue mousseline de sole edgeG ana
headed with tiny double ruiiles OF cream ana prack
lace The same style Of rules makes a berthe Iim..
ming The bodice and the waistband Is a sash or
blue moussclire de sole pnped down in n point on
the skirt baby fashion.
THE SHIRRED BLOUSE.
on q slight cgure shrred blouses are charming.
rrock Of white null dotted with fine spots OF pink