The herald., 1897-09-19
Wearing Apparel from Stock
ings to Cravats Comes
in Plain Designs.
THE AUTUMN BUSINESS SUIT.
Velvet Hats with High Crowns to
Be Dressy Head-gear
for Winter.

To Judge from the first exhibition Of
autumn materials, one would infer that
the designers were all Scotch. There
are plaid woolens with silk cross
stripes, plaid silks for full skirt, waists.
plain stockings and petticoats, all of
which will be worn from now until
Thanksgiving, and after that we shall
get out the mixed camel's hairs and
cheviots that are already to be seen II
one looks close enough.
Plaid woolens with silk stripes are
made up diagonally, whereby they can
be cut to suit any figure whether stout
or slim. These are generally consid-
cred sufficient unto themselves without
further trimming, but black gimp
braid may be used to advantage in
some cases.
Some of the plaid patterns have the
appearance of being formed by rum
ming ribbons in and out through the
goods itself. A green silk plaid has a
Ted satin ribbon stripe that is decidedly
deceptive.
Plaid shirt waists are made up very
simply for autumn wear, with three
pleats in 'front.' rather small shirt
sleeves with plain. straight cuff-not
turned back-and a cravat of plaid to
match. The smallness of the sleeves Is
not exaggerated. White linen collars
turned half way down are worn, as u.s.
lual
There is a new mohair, woven in
checks, but not plai.l in color, which
will make very pretty autumn dresses.
The material requires very little trim
ming and has a nice. dressy appear
ance in itself. One gown made of this
goods was of a reddish plum color.
The waist buttoned to the left shoulder
and was ornamented with three dia-
mond-shaped velvet pieces to simulate
large buttons. The collar was of fold
ed taffeta and very high and above
1t f1ared the same cheek k-protectors that
we wore with such comfort last year.
The belt was wide and high, with
large boa at the right side at it's upper
edge. The sleeves were the most at
tractive part of the gown and were es-
lpecially recommended by the fact that
they would be so easily made. Being
rather small mutton-leg sleeves they
were merely broadened at the top by
the addition of three ruffles. one of the
material and the other two of silk
The various, large New York houses
seem to differ widely on the subject Of
the correct bodice for the winter suit
One large establishment is making
nearly all its show costumes with the
blouse, belt and basque. This is de-
cidedly newer than the bolero but is
not so generally becoming. The
blouses invariably fasten up the side,
some starting from the middle of the
front at the waist and sloping up to
the shoulder, others running from the
shoulder straight down to the waist. A
stunning blue cloth suit which was
marked $500 had this style of basque
that is, the blouse fastened diagonally.
1t was trimmed with five tucks that
formed yoke around the collar, or
belt The blouse was fastened at the
waist with handsome steel buckle.
Ones wardrobe will hardly be COM
plete without at least one of the beau
tiful steel buckles that are now being
sold to trim tailor made dresses. They
come in plain steel, but the prettiest
ones are set with all sorts Of make
believe gems in heliotrope, green, blue.
and red hues. These are very expen-
sive, but when one considers that one
buckle is all the trimming necessary
for a whole dress that modifies the
matter considerably.
An extremely serviceable tailor suit
Is made with the blouse, as described,
with circular basque that Is not full,
but merely cut to f1t the hips and sewed
on separately. 1t has a pocket with a
pointed flap at the left side. With this,
one can wear a pig-skin belt, or a belt
Of the material fastened with one of
the ornamental buckles mentioned
above. For business suit this could
hardly be improved upon. The blouse,
instead of reaching to the neck turns
away in a slightly coat-like fashion
with narrow lapels and above is the
chemisette Of white linen, silk, or
whatever one cares to wear. A shirt
waist may be worn underneath by the
business woman who likes to remove