The times., 1897-06-27

1 sbtH niut VI Soijlt tlidt every
pert little flounce that falls over tie shoul-
| ders. And after ali, why should this not
be? For fur is surely decorative. and so
| used there is nc heat in il. One of the
/ prettiest small shoulder wraps, ard a
serviceable one, too, as those things go,
wa worn by a maid of honor ata wedding
| Her gown waslight dotted Swiss over light
| blue silk: her hat a burnt straw, wreathe1
| in two shdes of corn flowers. and her cape
OF cornflower blue MORE bengaline, lined
| with pale blue silk, and bearing border
| and falling collar OF chinchilla.
IL some of these capes descend so far
as the waist line, the majority reach
only to the elbows, as the black one, for
| instance, In the illustration. The model
for this sketch was smart mourning
wrap. The foundation lightweight black
silk, its yoke of duh Jet beads, below
| which fiuffed out ruffle after ruffle Of
| finely plated black silk muslin. Full,
beautiful, black ostrich plumes contrib
| uted the collar. A copy had been made in
white plumes, silk muslin and steel beading
and alongside lay quaint carriage cape
of more stable material-pale gray cloth,
beaded in steel, lined with white and
bearing about It's edge a fine plating of
white silk. This was the ground plan,
SO TO speak, on which fell q De collar
that at a distance seemed made of ie-
markable new fur. In reality it was
entirely covered with numberless half
inch deep plaitings of white silk muslin,
set close together and standing straight
up.
So much for the corrections and vani-
ties. Now for the realities of dress. This
week there are some novel skirt waists
of brown linen, with bolero Jacket fronts,
set on over full pouching bosoms. The
boleros are a part OF the shirt, sewed in
the shoulder armhole and un der arm seams.
They do not extend to the back, and man of
them are daintily decorated with chain
stitch embroidery, done by machine, but
none the less attractive and popular for
that.
hat that will wash is also last ex
preston of the mlliner's genius. White
linen is what it is IN ade- of, or brown linen,
IL you choose, and the familiar Alpine
shape is adopted for this cool and light
headgear. that in both brim and crown is
only made of two thicknesses of linen,
stitched deliberately. 1t is positive fact
that when the white linen hat grows soiled
IL oan be given to the laundress, who may
soap, scrub, starch and iron 1t into an
appearance of immaculate newness The
brown ones are equally adapted to tub
bings, and later the manufacturers promise
the same make and shape in blue an pink
linen.
All this is clean and convenient, but by
way of placing variation from the Alpine
shape, there is a nice hat just out, woven
in flat, creaIn-coloIed straw, its crown
running up to perfect cone. The rather
narrow crown juts out like that of sailor,
aud women who wear this shape for all
outing purposes trim the frames with a
bright plaid silk han ndkerchief and one or
two stout silver stickpns. The very truth
is that we are growing desperately lazy
about trimming our hats at all, SO much Go
the manufacturers do to solve the question
of how or what shall be done. All fresh
from the factory come straws, with net and
tulle brim facings. plated In by machinery,
the Innings for crowns are matter OF
course, and, for both women and children,
lovely hats of pale green, yellow and rose
colored rice straw are woven with puffings
Of white chiffon or narrow frillings Of silk
muslin escaping from beneath every layer
Of straw on the brim.
Along with the hats are wells of recent
invention worth mentioning. They are lit .
orally two wells woven as one. Against the
face lies a fine film of ivory-white tulle,
upon whichis woven a coarse mesh of blue,
brown or black silk net, amply sprinkled
with chenlle dots. This is recommended as
tan and freekle proof face covering and
at the same time not thick and hot as the
chiffon of sewing silk lengths, usually
worn by tender-skinned women.
Maybe the autumn will bring change
In this respect, but SO far the small fan
proudly waves. Black gauze ones, close
ly sprinkIed with bright green sequins
had all the rest for full dress occasions,
and not only is the gauze mounting, but
the sticks, too, resplendent with these
sparkling dots of color. 1t is noticeable
that only a few of the spangled fans are