Evening star., 1897-02-26

visiting dress is of pale gray drap d'ete
Il new material, which has just been intro
cuced this spring. The skirt is embroidered
around the bottom in a special design, the
workmanship of this being exquisite. as
may be imagined when it is said tha;
twenty-five girls were employed upon il
constantly for more than two weeks. This
same embroidery extends up the two fl ont
seams. growing narrower toward the top
The colors used in the embroidery are steel
blue, shading into a pale gray.
The front breadth is made in narrog
tucks half inch between each tuck On
the bodice is an embroidered yoke back
and front which is cut in graduated points.
To this the material is fulled down in the
front and is faSteEed to the waist line
to produce blouse effect.
High under the arms the cloth is en-
troidered and is brought forward benea, n
the full blouse and into point at the back.
Knots of two shades of gray ribbon are
fastened just below the shoulder in front
and are brought down, disappearing under
the waist line.
The collar is of chiffon and the ribbon is
in two shades of gray, with high full bows
at the back. '%t
The sleeves have an embroidered edge at
the bottom an inch wide. Above this is
group of tucks and so on up to the TOP,
where the cloth spreads out full and is
heavily embroidered.
The lining OF this gown is almost as
charming as the outside. the material for
it being pale gray fsrocaded taffeta
trimmed with Black and white alsrettes
and violets at the back.
A street costume Is of dark apple green
brca dcloth, with a smooth glossy surface
This is braided up and down the four
straight seams in a curious basket de-
sign, being considerably wider at the bot
tom than at the top. On the bodice the.
braid extends across the shoulders and
sleeves all in ore piece. In the front is a
vest of violet velvet tucked horizohtallt,
very fine at the itopiand at the lower part
Of the waist. The collar is braided in
black, finished with full velvet box pait
at the hack. The bonnet is of steel, with
black tips and orchid. saef.
A house gown for afternoons or evenings
at home is gray and black brocaded silk.
cut princeSSe throughout, and lined with
gray taffeta silk, The front and mart of
the back IS of white mousseline de Sole
plated full, and brought in two graduated
plaits over the shoulders. Three bands of
black velvet ribbon hold this in place in
front and finish the waist line. The collar
is of mousseline de sole, with black velvet
bows in the back. The sleeves are of silk
cut with-a flare at the bottom, and turned
back and trimmed with bands of ribbon
velvet. Under these are long sleeves of
soft mousselne de sole, shirred in full in
the wrist and finished with tiny black vel
vet bands and bows.
A gown to be worn on state reception oc
casions is a blue and brocaded velvet the
background is of blue satin with change
able effect. On it are raised flowers in
The design is princess. the waist being
made with a plait, wide on the shoulders
and narrow on the waist line. From there
1t extends in double box plait into full
spreading train.
On the bodice point lace follows this
plait. being fastened with two small cut
steel buckles at the bottom of the waist
and back. On the shoulder the lace is
drawn through similar buckles. Again in
front the same effect in buckles is shown.
and at the bottom of the waist in front
is large cut steel buckle. From this the
lace falls in fan-shaped pieces to the skirt.
In front Is a petticoat of blue satin yelled
with white mousseline de sole. This is en-
broiderei in cut steel and pearls in spe-
cial pattern. Edging this pettieoat is
Venetian point lace ilounce finished at the
top with very narrow Shirrings of null.
The same lace is brought up each side of
the petticoat to the waist line. where the
full train falls over it.
Inc front OF the bodice is also or mousse
line de sole, embroidered in cut steel and
pearls in smaller design than that used on
the skirt.
The collar is of cut steel and partly holds
up a separate collar of lace. which is
| brought through cut steel buckles at the
back and fastened in an indescribable man
ner.
The sleeves are of velvet. small but
siashed at the top and lined with satin and
| filed in with embroidered mousseline de
sole. Some of the point lace also appears
| In these slashings and is caught in with
| used on the other part of the bodice.
This gown is lined with pale blue taffeta
| and finished with three pinked-out heunces
OF the same silk.
Another Is of violet and white brocaded
satin. the color used being soft, delicate
and becoming to all complexions
The skirt Is full and plain, with long
| train, which gives height to the figure. At
the right is anaopsning extending to the
waist. In this BaISan-shaped piece Of vio-
let velvet of "a slightly darker shade Than
| the coior OF thesgswn. This Is made with
three deep tucks a to the bottom and at the
top are three }acen insertions with velvet
| between finished Nsths rhinestone buttons
Around the bottom Of the entire skirt are
two narrow banda OF violet velvet en-
| oroidered In small design.
Ihe bodice isn oferwhite liberty silk soft
and full, and oyer It is bolero jacket of
violet velvet, embroidered in several shades
snort on the shoulders and slightly longer
| Around the waist is a folded sash CT the
brocade, wide htidef the arm aud tapering
| narrow back in front For the extreme f1n-
Ism OF the waist line is the violet velvet
| which is fastened together in the back in
two full straps WHICH extend partly up the
back of the waist and partly down on the
The sleeves are of brocade. made with
fuli ruffed top. They are lined with velvet
The collar is of violet mousseline de sole
! finished at the edge with a narrow velvet
puff; and at the back is bow knot of lace
| fastened with velvet straps.
Another dinner gown is of white moire
| antique, made with absolutely plain skirt.
| iofg and full. The waist is plain and
draped in Grecian effect across the front
Narrow bands of pearl embroidery fasten
this drapery high under the arms and make
a point front and back. Duchesse lace
forms yoke effect In front and is drawn
back toward the arm size. where it falls in
fan-shaped ends. The sleeves are tight,
with short full puffs on top, and finished at
the wrists with an embroidery of pearls
and narrow lace edge.
One of the handsomest but also one of
the most severely plain dresses is a pale