The herald., 1897-08-29

loose and slightly bagged over the belt.
1t opens on the left side with three but
toned scallops. A revived French fancy
is basque piece showing below the pelt.
The close sleeves are pointed.
A double breasted jacket is made of
the finest blue kersey 1t has semi
tight fitting back with strap seams.
There is a tailor pocket at either hip, and
the sleeves are attached al the Wrists IN
a deep scroll design.
The collar is high slashed, inlaid with
black velvet, and the lining is blue and
black shot taffeta, with fancy jacquard
stripes
Another jacket is made Of ox-blood
kersey. with loose fiy-front and tight
fitting back. A narrow lap seam ex-
tends up either side Of front and down
the back
From the edges Of these seams all
around are strips of Ia Inch black braid
(three in a cluster) stitched in point
shape These alternate al a distance of
about two inches and form a decidedly
unique trimming. 1t has regular coat
collar and flap pockets at the hips. The
lining is plain black satin.
A black matelasse cape is made tight
back in mantle effect with a deep collar
of lynx. White lynx bands also trim the
front edges to the sweep. 1t has sort
of double inner vest, to which is at
| tached long satin loop on either side,
| forming a rest for the hands. The gar
ment is lined with quilted black satin.
| Many of the thin fall jackets, COM
| posed of either black or grey cloth, have
front Innings and facings, as also collar
and cuffs, of some light bright colored
velvet, such as cherry, light blue or
lavender These velvet facings are
richly embroidered in narrow black and
| gold braid.
AS a rule this style of jacket does not
close in front, but is allowed to remain
open, displaying the interior embroidery.
Broad turned back Louis XIV cuffs are
much approved of in this line.
A semi-long sort of "visite" is also a
novelty, being cut SO as to fall in loose
folds in front, and having behind box
plaits fastened at the waist on shaped
back. This garment has broad square
yoke falling in broad tabs on the shoul-
| ders over the sleeves and high stand
up collar.
Another cloak (but this is more for
winter wear) is made loose and reaching
| almost to the foot of the dress. In the
back are two plaits, fixed, as in the
preceding one, at the waist. These
plaits gradually widen as they reach the
foot of the cloak, and are richly EN-
broidered or adorned with passemen-
terie. The same decoration is in front
where the cloak falls loose.
This style Of wrap is made either with
or without a yoke. When the latter case
is preferred it is often composed of en-
broidered or beaded velvet.
AS rule it is sleeveless, having
slit on either side of the front through
which the arms can pass, and which are
concealed by tabs similar in materia
and design to the yoke.
A quaint costume in silk and cash
mere is trimmed with buttons, lace col
lar and wrist ruffles, and jaboted era
vat. The silk forms the narrow front oi
tablier, pointed vest, and three circular
ruff1es at the top of the sleeves. The
close sleeves, short waist, and the re-
mainder of the skirt, which Is laid II
two pleats at the back, is Of the cash
mere The silk is MORE, and in some
what strong contrast to the color of tht
wool goods.