The record-union., 1897-09-12

Certainly, if there had been any
doubt of Henry of Navarro being for
gotten it would be dissipated by the
fact that on the head of almost every
thing feminine there waves, this aut-
umn, his historic white plume. 1t
stands UP as bravely as possible. In
addition, feathers of all shades OBJ
tain, although they have not driven
either flowers, ribbons, velvet or span
giles out of the field.
The shape preferred is the one most
becoming to the individual. Furs, es-
pecially sable and chinchilla, are fash
iona BILE garnitures, and rich velvets and
silks are draped over soft frames, pro-
ducing wonderfully effective results.
Purple is still holding the imperial sway
it has for three years, although a Won
derful deep red is a close rival to it,
while royal blue, silver-gray, black
and white, white and black, all black
and all white obtain. Brilliant buck
les and pins are used to fasten flowers
and plumes to position. Indeed, wher
ever an effective bit of color or bright
ness can be artistically arranged, there
it is in evidence.
Silky English serge is again holding
out its claims as a strong rival to the
mohairs, etamines, canvas goods, and
similar utility fabrics so widely pop
ular this summer; and already some
extremely attractive and stylish cos
tunes have been made of the darker
shades of serge of superior quality
A very stylish visiting dress for an
autumn bride, modelled after a gown
made by Hentenaar, is of mignonette-
green cloth, the skirt tapped on each
side with a simulated fastening, fin
ished with small gold buttons and mock
buttonholes A band of cream white
cloth is stitched on at the left side
and all around the foot of the skirt,
this band finished With a single line of
fine gold cord. The jacket bodice of
the green material opens over a white
cloth vest, trimmed with little gold but
tons, and gold cord, and the jacket
bodice is finished with stitched straps
white kid belt. and a fancy gold
buckle
An autumn tailor gown of Russian
green English serge has a jacket bod
ice finished with short flat basques. 1t
opens over a vest of soft old rose col
ored ladies' cloth, a pale tan and gold
braiding nearly covering it's surface
The skirt hem is braided in the same
design, and the revers and standing
collar are made of green velvet An
other model has the back of the jacket
cut into short position basques. the
fronts in bOlerO shape, opening on a
vest of soft corded silk, under the belt
of which is an added basque cut in
circular form. This can be sewed per-
manent!y to a belt or pointed girdle.
or it can be made adjustable. and
when added, convert a house dress into
a street costume
To the majority of people a wedding
gown is always merely an elegant dress
of white satin with the conventional
train, high-cut. pointed bodice and an
airy veil. To those who more fully
understand the shibbOleth of fashion,
there IS considerable difference made
each year. and often each season. Just
now the trimmed skirts of bridal gowns
are not so wide; they are fitted with
unusual care on the front and sides,
with much fullness, maSsed as compact
ly at the back as possible. Special de-
signs are modelled for these skirts,
either in gored. circular or modified bell
shape. and not a few of the latest
styles are trimmed with rows of mar
row ruchings or puffings, but even at
the most fashionable weddings brides,
both here and abroad. have adhered
from choice to the simple. elegant. un-
decorated satin skirt. Next in popu-
larity 10 the traditional satin gowns
are those of the peau de sole. Victoria
silk. and other finely repped white
silks under chiffon draperies Where
| economy is considered and the wedding
is 1uet and transformations, white In
dia silk null over taffeta is very
charming, and the bridesmaids gowns
are OF white organdie trimmed with
white lace edged bodices or horizontal
| bands of lace insertion, alternating
with rows of tucking. the close sleeves
matching the bodice trimming. the tops
| finished with triple lace edged frills.
Other transparent white gowns have
surpliee waists, satin ribbon trimming
and skirts decorated with ruches edged
silk makes a pretty wedding gown. the
waists and sleeves tucked and the
neck and sleeves finished with hand
/ some lace frills. On elegant wedding
models we see Victorian cOrsages. glove
| fitting almost seamless. and for very
| youthful brides the bodice is some
times laced at the back The fronts
are closely fitted over a princesse lin
ing that has a very deeply arched dart
down the exact front The satin skirt
has bias putting of the same at the
| edge. the bodice is draped on the front
with r1ousselaine de sole in surplice
| fashion, with frills of costly lace ar
ranged en- coquille down the left side
from the shoulder to the skirt hem, a
spray Of orange blossoms following the
trimming as it descends. Other bod
ICES and bridal gowns en- princesSe
fast9n on the left shoulder and under
the ,efs arm. and are similarly trim
med. Marie Antoinette and Josephine
styles appear among very elaborate
French models. and the introduction of
picturesque and historical costumes is
still q popular and interesting phase
Of alaoanf bridal eyounipC tho SlyirfS