Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1897-06-27
Musfc and Death.

Music anu Ocatn
kindly watcher by my bed. lift no voice in
Waste not any words on me when the
hour Is Nigh,
Let a stream Of melody but flow from some
And meekiy viii I lay my head and fold
my hands to die.
Sick am 1 of idle words. past all recOncil-
Words that weary and perplex, and pan
Wake the sounds that cannot lie. for all
their sweet beguiling-
The language one need tathom not, but
oay hear and feel.
Let them roll once more to me-, and ripple in
Like waves upon some lonely beach where
no craft anchoreth;
mat cr = may n@sanssRt my nor 9earinS. anu
Drift on through slumber to a dream, and
through q dream to death:
George Du Maurier, after Sully Prud-
homme.
There is a man In our town who. raised
In the Orient, says he can never under
stand why women do not wear as thin
goods the four months of the heated sea-
son as the Oriental women do, for. he de-
clares, our heat is Just as insufferable. and
the women Of this city seem now to be
seeing things in that light.
There is no question that the hot wooden
and tailor gowns are not the proper dress
ing for our climate from the 1st of June to-
the LIST of October. What has brought
about this revolution Of clothes / cannot
tell. 1t is one of those things that have
crept up in the night and is here in all
force. 1 can never remember a season
when thin materials were to be worn on the
street 50 much.
Linens, ginghams, percales and plques
will come in for a large share of attention.
Women kept their white piQue tailor suits
for the country before; now they are TO be
seen on the streets in the sunshine. This
taste for sheer fabrics has brought about
a tremendous sale Of tafetas for street
In truth the brilliant affair, made of
te1eta and lace and ribbons, that our well
dressed women kept for a garden party,
is now seen in all splendor at an after
nCcn call or an informal summer dinner.
The women who have to look out for econ
omy claim that the handsomely made taft
feta gown serves a double purpose. 1t is
excellent for summer and with a little
fIeshening up serves admirably for winter
hours when the candles are lighted.
1t is made high neck and. therefore,
Genes In for all informal social affairs
in cold weather. Right here, let me add
a point, that there never was such a time
when high neck gowns are preferred fer
so many occasions. Up until two years
ago a woman wore her gown slightly decol-
lete for even the least society affair.
IT the house she usually had her bodice
cut a bit low, but to-day, unless at a very
formal affair, it is quite the thing to see
all the guests and the hostess in high neck
English women used to consider that a
low neck gown was to a woman what a
dress suit was to a man; to be worn on
lean women took this idea up for awhile,
but have now dropped into the manners
of the Frenchwoman, who does not con-
slider a decollete gown necessarily artistic
for any function; they cut their gowns low
and fill them in with tulle or make them
WwaEww kH8h nth n 49, - H. -
American women. as French women, do
not consider 1t the thing to always appear
in a low neck gown after s o'clock.
Probably it is because we are not so
conservative a people as the English and
our women hesitate TO uncover their
Threats and bosoms before a gazing mob,
for,our affairs are more public than theirs.
At the opera, even. / have seen some of
appear in a high neck gown, and thu did
not look amiss. II we lived in a royal
country where the fashion of the queen
was the fashion of the many, we would
always wear high neck gowns, and 1 am
not quite sure but what the preference of
Mrs. Cleveland and now of Mrs. Mckinley
for this conservative style of dress is
having a ruling power over the costumes
of American women.
Another reason may be that as a mass
We are not given to beautiful shoulders
and bosoms.
DO you remember the old-fashioned clace
silks, In small, clear checks, such as green
and white, and purple and black. that were
made up for school maidens; that the girls
of IL, and especially In the South, wore at
dances all through the summer? Well,
these silks have come back. / saw a gown
of purple and white silk that served a girl
several seasons ago, taken out of the trunk.
given a good pressing, freshened up with
new ribbons, and. 1 declare. il is in the
latest style. If you can get enough of this
Tor an entire dress you will find II more
serviceable than anything else, provided
you take coed care Of 1t during the hot
weather But Il Is not a cheap dress. no
You cannot make up taneta over dim
ity, and II is certainly spoiled by making
up. over cambria; 1t must have the thin
silk TO go under II. and this doubles the
cost. However. it is not more expensive
the usual best dress for the s,mn1a- 80,
an; but taffeta is likely to soil, and it takes
careful manipulation to keep 1t from the
dust Of the street. However, il makes a
beautiful gown. 1 wonder IL l can de-
scribe to you practically a gown 1 saw at
a dinner in New York the ether evening.
says a writer in the Philadelphia Press.
1t was an old-fashioned giace silk in
lavender and white check with a bar of
black. The skirt was made plain over Law
ender SIX, rather narrow. the fullness
P %hite ts sa tae wS PdSk a f The bI bodice was Of
lace over It. The scallops of the lace touch
ing in the back and In the front. Over
cretan jacket Of the @taffeta. "@ This P y fse
most troublesome affair to make, but it is
exceedingly smart.
The plaits are laid first and basted in
their place. and the pattern laid on il and
cut, then before the hastings are taken
out, at every four inches is stitched a
horizontal band Of purple velvet. which
keeps the plaits in place. This jacket is put
In at the aTmholes with the dress and is
not a separate affair. The one TO which I
refer was cut round in the neck, back and
'front.'. to show a yoke OF finely tucked
green ~taffeta, then the jacket ended back
and front about four inches above the
waist line, showing the fun blouse of white
lace underneath.
A girdle of green silk, caught with a
great cut steel buckle. at the side, finished
the bodice; the sleeves were small and
wrinkled with bands of purple velvet
stitched around them at intervals of four
inches.
With this she wore a dainty chip hat. the
edge bound with black velvet, and the
same covered with great ~rosettes of green
lavender and white Brussels net: a black
aigrette stood at the side and a bunch of
green leaves nestled against her hair under
WAS exquisite