The Dupuyer acantha. [volume] (Dupuyer, Mont.) 1894-1904, 1897-08-05

ness is desirable,
its convenience a matter of Importance,
its ideal that it may be a Safeguard
without imposing n superftious dis
comforts: 1t should, therefore, com
press no one part of the body: How
much less then, should 1t deform it!
If, therefore, after having consid-
cred clothing as a necessity; we look
upon 1t as an ornament, it Is evident
that it can only beautify the body on
condition that it respects its contours
and does not break the harmonious
unity of. the whole. The materials en-
ployed for clothing are principally
women fabrics, which are I'M them
selves graceful. This must be respect
ed also and in consequeL these It's
sues must not be wrapped around the
body. These principles are carried out
perfectly in arc'ent costume, as can
be seen by a study of the figures in
Grecian and Roman vases.
The costume was the same in it's
principle for both men and women. 1t
did not dissimulate the difference of
the sexes, but it did not attempt to ac-
centuate it. The tunic was d shorter
'stoia.' h mems garment was draped
as profusely as the women's and was
Tor both sexes floating and ornamental.
T turn O to the toilet Of our
contemporaries.
w see at once that it is at variance
with n known principle. Two things
stand out prominently. First, the gar
ment Is always more or less elaborate
~ adjusted; second, it differs very ma
terlaliy according to the sex.
Doubtless the adjusted garment
might In the first instance be explain
ed by the climate, against which it is
was necessary to take precautions.
But 1t is certainly clear to the most
casual observer that this utility Is at
present only an accessory in the minds
or our tailors and dressmakers.
None of the rules is observed today
IN feminine attire. The corset is no
longer worn as a protector; it com
presses and deforms. The materials
are stretched over a rigid framework,
winch notably modifes the form of
the breast, and for the last ten years
the skirts have been either too ample
or too narrow, spreading out over ar
tl1cial and proportionless contours
or displaying as much as possible of
the real figure by their scantiness-two
perfectly opposite fashions destined to
convey the same impression"
What impression"
"The modern fashionmaker has
taken pains to exaggerate all the parts
which nature has made most promi-
nent in the body. All the little arti-
fees of detail have been brought into
play to complete this first a%rtiice.
THE curves of the body have been
brought into bolder relief by the COR
set; and, following the fashion of the
times, by paniers and bustles; the
enormous sleeves have a tendency to
ac%centuate the waist and the high
Louis XIV. heels throw the bust more
prominently forward and impose on
the movements of the body a restraint
which reveals it's formation more
clearly. In a general way the femi-
nine figure is considerably amplified-
and cut in the middle.
"You can see for yourself the effects
of this division. The unity of form
being broken, one glance no longer
embraces it easily; our eyes are separ-
ately attracted by the two parts which
compose it, and in each part by its
protuberances. In fact, the waist as
understood by u contemporaries is
no longer large and supple, as it was
in women of ancient times, but it is
a reformation of the body, and in the
disarrangement of the thoracic cage
divides the women in two-to local
ize our attention.
'In a few words, the feminine dress
has become essentially expressive OF
sex.
"The actual dress of women today is
the irreconcilable enemy to their nat
ural duties. These are the sad but true
facts of the case"
The publication of this interview
naturally made some sensation ir
Paris, and some of the famous dress.
makers were interviewed upon the
subject. The greatest of them said:
There is a great deal of truth in
what these critics say, but we are no
responsible for the fashions any NOR,
than are the fashionable women witt
enjoy the credit of creating them"
but who, then, does set the fash
ions?" asked the interviewer.
mo one. Neither myself nor m,
confreres. Fashion is a chain of vari
atoms which drags along in an unrea
soning logic and a fatal caprice whicl
ordains that we should unceasingl,
hunt for a change of any kind from tn
fashion which was in vogue yesterday
) Lace is worn today because it was no
} worn yesterday; it will be worn les
) tomorrow because it is worn so mucl
today. The sleeve is large today 70
change; tomorrow it will be smaller TO
the same reason and will finally dis
appear altogether.
And all this happens imperceptibly
without much thought in advance, be
cause we follow, or, rather, foresee
the taste of u customers"