Omaha daily bee., 1897-03-07

is made either square or pointed. as best
suits the figure.
Coats and skirts OF tweed and chevlot
are renewing their youth, and instead OF
representing a vogue that is at least a
dozen years old, might, judging by their pres
ent very fashionable attitude, be almost en-
tering on their first season.
In moires the variety In waterings eX-
cseds anything we have ever had before,
in light colors as well as in black and white,
and there are some wonderful designs in
frost effects, which produce variegated
scenes of frost and vegetation altogether
novel.
Black polka dots in small sizes appear
in both watered and changeable grounds of
bright colorlng. Peau de sole in Persian
patterns and checked grounds with an all
over lowered design Is another novelty in
silks, which Is expensive. but very artistic
in colortng. and bengalines are shown again
among fashionable materials.
New dress-skirt models are finished with
fiounces at the hem; with row after row of
tiny frills; with long overskirts caught up
at one side. Some have rows OF gimp or
milliners' folds at the hem or are finished
with horizontal or perpendicular tucks, or
they are corded or shirred at the top all
the width around, or only about the hips.
Among the handsome fabrics now being
used for tailor costumes are faced cloth
In very elegant colorings and qualities;
fancy Oxford suitings. fine boucle effects In
French camels hair, indistinct checks in
silk and wool mixtures, very stylish Paris
woven novelty goods, genuine Scotch chew
lots, English serges and diagonals, and
creped cloths in light spring qualities, which
are in no way to be COMPOUNDED with the
obsolete crepons.
Lusterless silk is rather out OF vogue,
although 1t has its admirers and pur>
chasers still among fashionably-attired
women. Its tendency to shine after short
service Is always a serious drawback to
dull silk. and 1t is no doubt the cause OF
Its lack of more continued favor. The pre-
vailing style Of dress Is eminently suited
to silk with a ~lustrous surface, as it COM
bines admirably with the majority of
dress fabrics and accessories now in vogue.
For many years we have worn our shout
ders UP to our ears. so to speak. Now all Is
to be changed. and the fashionable woman
must assume the virtue of slcQing shoulders,
though she have 1t or not. Seams from neck
to shoulder-point are to be heightened, and
all fulness that remains in the top Of the
sleeve will tend In a downward direction.
The shoulders proper will remain where they
are, but will look as If they had received
direct impetus toward the elbow.
Among the minor additions to spring
gowns imported, or made by high-class
are noted very small pad bustles
and rather morrow graduated dress-ex-
formed variously OF moreen covered
with silk, mohair or rustic percaline. Small
steels are formed to hold tiny wire hoops
about four inches in diameter, and these
keep the extender gracefully curved and in
perfect shape at the back. On the front
he skirt Is fiat and narrow in shape.
Toques. by which are meant bonnets with
,ut strings, are just now more esteemed
han hats for dressy afternoon wear. Many
If the new toques are exceptionally smart
ooking. ona of the models looking very like
he turban of an Asiatic, with the inevitable
ewel ornament in front. Rising above this
ornament are tall ostrich plumes, which.
curling over. describe a rather graceful
lrch, extending from a little to the left
II the face and falling over the top Of the
oque to the brim.
The Gretchen chemise Is the latest variety
n this garment, and it is very nearly like
he Empire in style, except in one feature,
which is the short pulled sleeve, a revival
If an old fashion, which makes a complete
md pretty underbodice to wear under mus
in gowns. 1t is trimmed around the bottom
With a laced-edged frill. six inches wide, and
answers the purpose of an under petticoat.
The neck is finished square with insertion
and a lace frill all around or small revers
made of lace insertion and bands of cam
brio spreading out from a point in front
to a width Of three or four inches at the
armhole.
One of the assured survivals of the past
is the short jacket under all its
shapes and names. the Elton, Zouave, bolero,
patrol. the French guard, with its
gay military decorations. This diminutive
garment is eminently dressy and effective
and will lose none of its elegance under its
warm or hot weather guises. In handsome
lace, 1t is most dainty and graceful with a
full dress toilet; in velvet it will be quite
as popular as during the winter season, and
even more generally worn, for it will accom-
pany many elegant outdoor costumes; and on
toilets 1t is made of countless ricn
and pretty textiles and Is variously trimmed.
1t is quickly adjusted. and. particularly II
of velvet, 1t transforms in a trice a plain,
bodice into a charming and pictur-
esque one, and Is capable also OF infinite
variety, for any number Of separate waists,
bodices and fancy blouses can be worn in
turn with this one rich little garment.
Feminine Notes.