The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1897-10-10
GLIMPSE OF FINLAND.
RUSSIA'S SCANDINAVIAN CON-
QUEST AND ITS RESULTS.
The Northern Gibraltar Built by
Swedish Admiral of the
Eighteenth Century.

The voyage from Stockholm to st.
Petersburg in a Finnish steamer is
pleasant one, for the Baltic is a quiet
sea, and the coast, with it's shallow
fjords and rockbound headlands, while
less bold and impressive than that OF
Norway, does not lack the charm of
picturesque wildness and beauty. Three
nights and two days are spent on
small but fairly comfortable boat, and
the long stops at intermediate points
are not tedious. Glimpses Of towns
like Abo, Hango and Helsingfors are
interesting because they reveal at once
the genuine strain of Scandinavian
character and the intelligence and fex-
Utility displayed by Russia in govern
ing a subject race swayed by progress
i've impulses and an alien religion. Not
only is the coast scenery Of Finland
like that Of Sweden and Norway, but
the people also have the sturdy vir-
tues and progressive tendencies which
characterize the Scandinavian race.
The Finlanders are sincere and devOt-
ed Protestants, who have little in COM
mon with Holy Russia; but they have
been allowed a large measure Of local
independence and religious liberation.
Finland is not Russian Ireland, but is
well governed, prosperous and con-
tented
The approach to Helsingforsi s guard
ed by the historic fortress Of Sveaborg.
with batteries on seven islands, 800
mounted guns and a garrison of 5000
men. This was the northern Gibraltar
built by a Swedish Admiral toward the
end of the eighteenth century. For
centuries Finland had been under
Swedish rule. bat the Russians had set
their hearts upon conquering it, al
though it was a poor and barren coun-
try, often decimated by famine. Svea-
borg was designed to be an impregna-
BILE barrier against invaders from the
Neva, and the High Admiral who for
titled the seven islands was go confident
that it could never be captured that he
proudly directed his body to be buried
there. His monument still stands, with
an inscription In the spirit Of the Wren
epitaph in St. Pauls Cathedral; but
the fortress was mysteriously surren-
dered by a Swedish Admiral in 1oUS.
and the Russian flag is now over It,
Whoever passes the grim fortress,
with its memories of naval lombard
ments and generations of warfare, has
an object lesson in Russian persistence
and patience. The same conquering
race which coveted Finland, persever-
ing in its purpose generation after gen
Grafton until the last rampant was tax
en- by intrigue and treachery has IT'S
aspirations south as well as north, and
awaits with equal confidence and tenac-
itv of mind the fulflment Of its ambl-
. lions. Constantinople is another SVea-
borg fortified by European diplomacy
against Russian assault. For gener-
ations it has been coveted, and every
pfous Russian knows in his heart that
the flag will some day be there, and
also over Jerusalem. 1t is race that
can wait for centuries for what II ar
IDENTIFY desires.
The Russians, having conquered FIN
land early in the present century nave
completely reconcned the Protestant
population to their rule. They nave
succeeded in this policy by adroitly
making concessions to local pride. Inc
Emperor of all the Russias IS the
Grand-duke of Finland, and governs
the country with the consent OF the rs
tates of the Diet, which assemble Pc
riodically at Helsingfors. New taxes
cannot be imposed without the concur
renee Of the four estates, and the 1uh-
damental code of laws is scandinavian
in origin. Recent changes in admin
istration have tended to- Russlanlze
Finland, but the country continues to
enjoy the privileges of representative
institutions. There is separate
Finnish customs line, which has to be
passed even when the traveller is jour
neying from st. Petersburg. Russian
currency does not pass in the shops.
There is a Finnish monetary system
distinct from that Of the Empire. Uni
versal military CONSUMPTION is en-
forced in conformity with the laws Of
the Empire, but Finland is not garri
soned by Russian troops, but by its own
soldiers The Grand duchy, with its
Scandinavian love of independence and
liberty, enjoys exceptional privileges of
local autonomy and religious liberation.
1t is not disaffected province of the
Empire.
ADO AND ITS ABBEY.
The first glimpse of ancient Abo from
the sea is unpromising. A castle on
the bluff, which once witnessed scenes
of revelry in the days of Gustavus Wasa
and the Erics, is a blackened ruin serv-
ing as a prison. A scientific observatory
GROWING a high hill has lost its AGA
demic character with the removal of the
ancient university to Helsingfors, and
with a melancholy air of having seen
better days is now degraded into a nav
igation school. The spire of the Cathe-
draI of St. Henry is a degenerate ex-
ample of clumsy, heavy Gothic, which
does not invite close inspection. The
town has lost much of its distinction as
a center of learning, and has been re-
built after disastrous fires with broad
streets flanked by inartistic frame
buildings: but it has a hourishing trade
and its fortunes have materially i'm
proved since the Russian conquest. The
traveller who perseveres in exploring the
dull and barren streets finds many signs
of thrift and intelligence, and when he
enters the quaint cathedral he is Well
repaid for his long dusty walk, for in an
humble way it is the Westminster Abb
hey of Finland.
For generations the great families
were buried in the vaults of this an
Gent church, the foundations of which
were laid in 1900 Conspicuous places
were found for Bishops, soldiers and he
roes. The chapels are filled with mon
uments, and the pavement is lined with
inscriptions. Protestants and Catholics
who have served their country are
sleeping here side by side and their re-