Evening star., 1897-03-13
BELTS AND BUCKLES
Adjuncts to Women's Wear That Will Be
Popular.
Girdles of Ribbon and Some Studded
With Jewels-Buckles. OF
Endless Variety.
From Harper's Bazar.


Belts and buckles are most important ad-
juncts to women's costumes in these days,
and judging from the advance fashions for
spring and summer will be more than ever
popular. Certainly a handsome belt and
buckle 90 add greatly to the beauty and
finish Of a waist. and the tiny buckles that
are used on bows and rosettes are also an
added orna ment
Girdles have been in fashion for some
time, but while they no longer be
classed amorg the novelties, they can and
will be in style this season. All sorts and
varieties of ribbon are used III their con-
struction, but at present the black liberty
satin is the most fashionable as it can be
drawn into shape much more easily than
the stiffer materials, and it is still consid
cred necessary to have these girdles fit to
perfection. Girdles look much better on
slender, long-waisted women, but as it is
the fashion, of course, short-waSted women
must also wear them. Clever dressmakers
adopt many devices to make them becom-
ing, some of which are very satisfactory.
The Straightforward look which gives width
is obviated by having the girdle in a point
just at the back and narrowed down at
the side seams and again in a point in
front Thea the lower front of the girde
is so arr3nged as to come below the waist
line in the front and back, and this is
marvellous improvement. Another style
has the girdle in front much lower than in
the back, and again in the center of the
back the ribbon is sometimes divided and
turned under and only a narrow line left
at the waist. Sometimes the high point is
under the arms, and then there is a sharp
bias effect with the ribbon stretched tight
ly down to the waist-line When and where
broad girdle or bodice is becoming it can
be arranged either in broad or narrow
folds, and can be as wide as a quarter of
yard without in any way interfering
with the lines Of the figure. Some of the
waists this winter have appeared to be
all bodice, yards of ribbon or material
wound round and round the figure.
With the short jackets at present the
craze, a line of belt or girdle bodice must
show beneath at the back. This is hard to
arrange for 4 short waist, but can be salts
factorily accomplished by having a bias
belt and pulling ii down the skirt and
fastening with pretty pin. These same
belt pins are most elaborate affairs and
are often set with jewels on a gold bar.
For the benefit of those who do not own
jewels are many pretty designs in gold
and silver The folded bias belt is prettier
than the fitted straight bodice, which has
too stiff a look.
On the very elaborate tea gowns so fash
ionable at present the jeweled girdles are
wondrous things. They do not fit tight.
but are buckled loosely in front and hang
down on the skirt almost to the feet. Fash
ion has set the stamp of her approval upon
imitation Jewels and the passementeries
and girdles which would be worth kings
effective. Seed-pearls, rhinestones and
brightcolored jewels are combined and
present most gorgeous appearance An
exceedingly simple gown-simple as to
color, for there Is no simplicity In the heavy
brocades, satins and laces that are used In
the construction of the gowns-all of white.
will have its only color in the stones on
the girdle.
With the velveteen shirt waists are worn
the gold erd silver belts. with either plain
or jeweled buckles. These belts are almost
invariatiy narrow, and in consequence more
generally becoming. Even when a broad
and elaborate buckle is worn it is attached
to narrow belt, but the buckles them
selves are works of art. The Russian
variety: while in gold and silver. of beau
ttful workmanship, there is no end to the
choice that can be had. Silver with tur
quoises Is for the present the rage; and as
gray gowns are to be the fashion, they
will undoubtedly continue in favor. Some
. times with a satin girdle there will be
buckle OF silver studded with turquoise.
or more often a band of silver passemen-
terie studied with the blue stones will form
the belt.
On one Of two velvet costumes made up
recently there are to be seen broad jeweled
belts. On garnet velvet with short jacket
the belt is OF gold with rubfes and tur
quoise, and the effect is good. and not
garish and theatrical. as might be supposed
while with a green velvet blouse a narrow
belt OF gold studied with turquoise is most
charming.
Peau de sole and the softer qualities of
ribbon are not likely to go out of fashion
for some time. and in the new girdles are
greatly in favor. as they can be pulled
through the buckle without creasing and
looking mussed.
The heavy harness belt to wear with shirt
waists has again made its appearance. but
fortunately is a trif1e modified, as a finer
grade of leather and handsomer gold
buckle is worn In preference to last years
style, which was so emphatically a piece
of harness. Russian enamel belts made I'm
separate pieces and of most artistic color,
look well with all shirt waists. Both dark
and light enamel is to be had, and the diff
ferent designs are manifold. These belts
are not all expensive by any means, and
are always smart looking, both on silk
and crash waists.