The record-union., 1897-07-18

T. AsSh
The question is not definitely settled
as to whether blue or black serge is the
smartest for bathing suits. rms sea
son there seems to be a preference III
favor of the latter; that is IN READY
made suits. Those made to order are so
far in black. Either may be relied upon
as being in fashion, and 1t really Is
matter of personal choice. TWO klnos OIL
waists are being made this season. one
is a sailor blouse with vest piece Oh
plain material or striped Jersey cloth'
the other is the same style Whlch hdS
been worn for years pasta deep YOKE
with the full lower part of the waist lalo
in side pleats. The yoke follows the pat
tern Of this years shirt-Waists, ana Is
in two points in the back, and very mar
row and square in front. 1t allows OF
sufficient fullness to completely hlde the
figure in front, but is well drawn down
at back, so that it has the appearance OF
fitting tight, and the pleats are so ar
ranged as to give long lines. with
waist cut in this fashion 1t is not ne
cessary to wear even bathing corsets;
for no matter how thin and flexible cor
sets may be, they much impede the heart
action in swimming. Most OF the SUITS
are made high in the throat, with a col
lar that is on band and turned over
very much like a shirt-Walst collar
With this is worn small neck-ue OF
black silk or sailor knot. The sleeves
are short puffs of medium size that come
halfway down the arm They nave
hand of elastic sewed inside, but not sur
ficiently tight to compress the arm III
any way. The belt is of the same ma
terial, and is sewed quite up on the waist
at the back, so as to hold the pieatS
down. 1t is equally fashionable to nave
the skirt and the waist joined together
and this is generally done because most
women wear bathing tights in prefer
ence to Enickerbockers. When knlcker-
bockers are worn they are attached 10
the waist, and the skirt buttoned on
around the band. A canvas belt with a
black buckle-the ordinary bathing belt,
in fact-is used in preference to any
other, although some women VINO IKE
fancy effects wear a knotted sash OF
Turkey-red flannel.
Trimmed skirts increase in favor as
the season advances.
Lovely gowns of cream-white crepe de
Chine or chiffon made by Calraysac are
tucked straight across the bodice front
and back, and at intervals up the entire
length of the sleeve, the tucks oddly
turning upward; or they are shlrred 10
form tiny standing frills about a quarter
of an inch wide. The narrow girdle is
trimmed with fine pearl and golden gal
loon. this garniture also hnlshlng the
flaring Medici collar crenallated at the
edge, with pleated chiffon falling be-
tween each pair of tabs. The bodice fas-
tens on the left shoulder and under the
arm, leaving the tucks unbroken ACROSS
the front. Other waists of this variety
are fastened at the back, and all are
made up over white taffeta silk
Accordion-pleated skirts of black silk.
Erenadine, canvas tulle, black SWISS
muslin dotted in silk, fancy French and
Russian nets, and similar diaphanous
textiles are made up over gored founda-
tions of brilliant Turkish red or golden
yellow satin. Portions of the bodice and
sleeves are likewise pleated and finished
with elegant decorations in cut jet
The dress parasols this year are ex-
tremely beautiful, and the rich and
dainty fabrics and coloring used in their
creation are simply marvellous. Solid
rold and silver handles are no longer
popular. natural ivory, Dresden china OF
the finest, and fancy woods being con-
sidered much smarter. Some of the gar
den-party and 'fete" models are ornate
70 absurdity, and look quite as much
like decorated lamp-shades as they do
FT.I,o toll of
this season exceedingly simple or very
much the reverse. You may correctly
carry an unlined, untrimmed shade with
q very fashionable gown-provided, OF
course, its quality is of the best; other
wise. the parasol may be decorated in
side and out in the most elaborate man
ner that fancy can devise. Many of the
costly transparent styles are unlined,
but layer after layer of chiffon is used
on the outside instead. The pretty grass
cloth and satin foulard parasols are in
strong contrast TO these chiffon fancies,
but they are useful in the extreme.
There Is a rage in Paris for gray in
every tint and tone, and in every ma
terial from serge to satin brocade.
What do with ones tresses at the
seashore is certainly a very serious
problem, this especially with those who
have lank locks that after early June
persistently resist all attempts to pro-
duce waves and tiny curly locks by
artificial means There is a. very large
army of women, indeed, who are per-
picked by this weighty question The
appearance of the hair artifcially cuI1ed
is quite distinct from the soft, graceful,
clinging tendrilS bestowed by Mother
Nature, and those who owe them to art
know that they are a perpetual source
of trouble during the summer season
Heat and damp alike affect these waves
and curls Few women look Well with
plain fat locks brushed away from the
face. They are obliged to dress the
hair about the face, not always to look
beautiful, but simply to look presenta-
bic But if, after an hour or so, the ef-
feet of a heated iron or crimping-pin
vanishes under the influence of summer
atmosphere, and struggling wisps of
hair hang over the face in forlorn dis