The times., 1897-09-12
AUTUMN JACKETS.

s7tpANt4- aAfNiG dtE illdAu WtlDltur Will
silk cross stripes nieia silks for full skirt,
waists. plain stockings ana petticpats, al
OF (which WILDE worn from now until Thanks-
giving, ana after that we shall get out the
mixed c1iaieI's hairs and cheviots That are
already 20 be seen If one looks close enough
Plaid wo3iens with SIX stripes are made
up diagOnally, whereby they can be cut to
suit any figure, whether stout or slim.
These are generally considered sufficient
unto themselves without further trimming.
but black gimp braid may be used To ad-
vantage Is soine cases.
Some Of The plaid patterns have the APP
pearance OF being fornied by running rib
hons in aud cut through the goods itself
A green silk plaid has . red satin ribtson
stripe that is decidedly deceptive.
Plaid slirt waists are made up very sim
ply Tor autumn wear, with three plaits in
front, rather SMALL shirt sleeves. with plaif,
straight cuff not turned back-and era
vat Of plaid 10 match. The suIallness OF
tile sleevesis not eXa egerated. White linen
collars turned halfway down are worn,
Ss usual.
There L. a new inohair, woven IN checks,
but pot plaid in color, which viii make
very pretty autumn dresses. The material
Requires very Hide trimming and has
nice. dressy appearance Ia itself. one gown
made or gHs goods was of d reddish plum
oolor The y ;sist buitosed TO The lef shoul-
der ard was orLanrented with three dia-
moi,d-shapcd velvet pieces to simulate large
l,rsfa,e I'll. ,fffar ,s--.1 ~ c.ato.r9
and very ideh. and above it flared the same
cheeE-aroieoiors that we wore with such
comfort last year The beIt was wide and
hish, with large toa at the right side at
its upper edge The sleeves We're the most
attra, tive part Of the sown end were espe-
cialIy recommended by the fact that they
woulu be 80 easily made. Being rather
sinsn EfItt9n-Icg sleeves. they were merely
broadened at tine top by the addition Of
three ruifles, one Il the material and the
Cther two OF silk.
The various. large New YORK houses
seem 10 differ widely on the subject OF
tie correct bcdice for the winter suit
One large establishment IS making
nearly all its show costumes with the
blouse, belt and basque. This is de-
cidrdly newer than the boiero, but is
not generally becolmng. The hlouses
inEaria;1iy faSten up the side, some starting
from the middle II the front at ;he waist
and si0piag up 70 the shoulder, Others
running from the shoulder straight down
70 tlse " aist. a stunning blue cloth suit
which was mar ked $50 had this style o.
basque shat is tie blouse fastened iiag-
oHaliy- II WIS trimmed with five tucks
that formed u yoke around tie collar, or
beii- The laouse was fastened at the
waist with handsome steel buckle.
ones wardrobe will hardly be COM
plete without at least one OF the beau
Gfui steel buckles that are now being
sold - trim iaiior-uiade dresses. They
come in plain steel but the prettiest
ones are set with an sorts Of make
believe gems in lteliotr0pe, green, blue,
and Ted hues- These are very expen-
sive, fsut when one considers that one
buckle j. al the trimming necessary for
a Whole dress that n0diTies the natter
considerably.
AT extremely serTicea hle tailor suit is
made With the blouse, as described, with
q circular basque that is not fun but
merely cut 10 fit The hips and sewed on
separately. II has a Pocket with pointed
flap un the left side. With this. one can
weaf a pigSkin belt, or belt OF the ma
teral fastened with ere. Of the orna mental
bgciiea mentioned above. For business
FJat his could hardly be improved upon.
The blouse, instead Of reaching to the
neck turns away in a slightly ooat-like
fashion with narrow Iapels, and above
is The cheLlisette 81 white linen, SIX or
whatever one cares to wear. 4 shirt waist
may tee WON underneath rs the business
FvomaR who likes TO remove her blouse
Jacket when she reaches her place Of bust
ness
a bit of silk pleating sewed along the
edge Of the diagonal fastening OF one OF
these houses relieves the severity Of
the tailor sGIt and H., chemisette may he
Of the same six laid ~ five tucks.
If one has a dress left over from last
Writer Il can easily be converted into a
blouse costume OF the present style, by
putting in new back pieces and adding a
oircuias basque 10 the lower edge of the
belt 1t may then he cut ont around the
neck To admit the chemisette, aud If it
II necessary 10 piece it 10 make it fasten
70 tie side the seam can easily be covered
with gimp trimming. or course this pre-.
suppoaes that about d yard OF rnaterial
las i'eeH left over-a circumstance which
every one shouId remember when plIr-
chasing a new dress.
Any round yoke effect. with the rest Of
the bodice bloused win be correct this
season I noticed black velvet blouse
with three folds OF turquoise blue velvet
forming narrow rnund yoke that followed
the line Of the collar, which was so simple
that IL hardly seen,s worth mentioning
Vel tie most soniber gown could be easily
frightened up in this manner without the
aid OF a dressniaker, aud it is a very good
thing To remember WHOM one s trying t.
REMODEL an old dress.
Sleeves are made Of the same materia
from wrist % ShaHlder bHt may be very
small aad then buoadened, with ruffles
or trimmed caps at the top. Nosleeve puff:
OF separate material are admissible Th,
cuffs tli.rt turn down and nearly cover
the haRd are gain fashionable. They ar
usually cut in two parts and trimmed with
braid or whatever Ornafnentation is use,
On tie rest of the dress
SOrise Of the new materials have trim
ming woven in All all-over pattern. TO gc
with them. This usually forms the sleeves
ana the bottom Of the skirt as indicated
In the accompanying illustration The
loose hanging Jacket has a border at the
bottofn Of the same trimming as well al
tie square lapelS. The plain silk waiS
here shown is very good example oi
those In which most yoang girls VIII re
turn u college, and which most busines,
women VIII wear to their offices and school
MONS rs September calls them back Il
their varings tasks.