The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1897-02-17
80 -<s-----
RESTAURANTS IN RUSSIA.
A Great Gastronomic Luxury-"Ster-
let" Which Has the Delicacy of
front

One of the most fashionable restaurants
in Moscow is the Hermitage, and another
is the Moskoyski TraktIr, or Grand Hotel
de Moscow, near the entrance of the
Khitagorod. At both of these ii is much
the custom to begin dinner at the table
itself with two or three commanded
dishes of the zatouska. tablespoonful
of the shining. appetiZing caviar. with
slice of lemon. and corner twisted from
the hot kalatsch, accompanied by
radiSh and an olive. or. perhaps. picked
plum: and with the inevitable little
glass; leads to the cold dishes and
sauces." for the Muscovite chef serves
his fish in the middle.-not beginning of
the repast. Among dishes of game the
gelinotte is noticeable (the Russian
ryabehik); but this bird is more welcome
in the disguise of an okrochka than
cooked whole. In mayonnaise. also.
the ryabehik is highly popular, remarks
writer in the London Telegraph This
gennotte. or double snipe-' has been
very truly described as a bird partaking
of the characteristics both of the grouse
and the partridge with slight under
flavor-in which it resembles the caDer-
cailzie-of turpentine. Such a popularity
is, no doubt due to its habit of feeding
upon the tender topmOst shoots of the
fir tree. The Russian peasants have
legends about every bird and beast and
they say that the gelinotte had once the
finest breast OF all birds. but il vexed its
creator who took this away and gave ii
to the ryper. There. is preparation of
mutton STYLED schashlik. which might be
worth importing hither. and beef is cur
iously metamorphosed from its British
forms into the zrazi. the shtofTade. and
the azu tatarsk.- Kidneys. potchki, with
truffies, may appear. along with ONE
lettes: and cretes de cog mingled with
sweetbreads in rogout; or pojarski de
poularde aux legumes, a plate named
after the hero who delivered holy Russia
from the tyrannies of Poland. The
zarkoe. or roasts. VIII include telyatin.
l. e.. veal. and turkey. which IS called
indyk the duck. ootka. the cock
of the woods. teterev. as well as. waen
in season. the quail. perepel, the dvoDer.
and the teal. cherok.
The dish par excellence. however. of the
Russian bill of fare is certainly sterlet.
which. whether served en- anneau Ia
Russo, or made into an oOka. or blended
with slices of sturgeon in a solyanka, I
must be recognized as notable discovery
for all travellers. The sterlet is gelatin
Gus, semi-sturgeon-like fish, but much
smaller than the sturgeon, having a long.
ugly nose. and no bones but very nice
as a matelotte when. however. a single (
portion will cost the guest at least 81
rubles. a solyanka ties sterlets is charged
ruhles the portion. while the finest
fried sturgeon is not more than third
of that price. This speciality of the Volga
river is. past all question. a great CASTRO
nomic luxury: the white, dissolving, nu-
tritious flesh has all the delicacy OF the
trout. all the crispness of the turbot. |
in a manner to make many a foreign I
sea and stream jealous. with very good
cause. of the cold and turbid Volga- The |
pleasant hot dinner cakes, already spoken /
of as kalatsch, should be eaten along
with sterlet