The record-union., 1897-01-31

The small, snug Russian toque is a
comfortable and well favored head
covering this winter, and it is worn
alike with skating, driving, walking
and handsome dress" costumes, ac-
cording to the quality and quantity OF
materials and garnitures which COM
pose 1T Popular and becoming toques
OF beautiful shade Of Russian blue or
golden brown velvet, have soft crowns
of very moderate hight the bTims bor-
dered narrowly with sable, mink or OF
ter fur, with a small animals head in
front and as a trimming an aigrette
of fur tails resting on a full pompon
of brown marabout feathers.
The general plan of spring gowning
IS most attractive, especially in tie
realm of costumes designed for gem
eral uses. The advance models are ar
tfstic and stylish. with but few eXag-
gerations or grOtesque effects and with
great scope for selection, both in fab
rics and styles. Skirts are still in Sc
we're tailor style, or trimmed to suit
personal preference, individual forms,
and special occasions. They are in cir
cular form or shaped, with few or many
cores, as the case requires, one of the
new models having a single gored front
breadth and two very wide ones that
reach to the back and join there on u
bias seam Regarding bodices a few
are simple in outline and effect, but the
majority are intricate in design and
elaborately decorated.
Many indeed are the false prophets
that have arisen and sounded forth the
extinction and doom of the fancy waist,
the separate waist, the blouse the sur
plice and any of the rest of the cor
5ages not made en- suite with the dress
skirt. We heard and trembled. for is
It not a universal favorite, a most trim,
convenient and faithful friend? Verify
it is all these and much more, but it's
merits need not be enlarged upon; they
are known and thoroughly appreciated
by all except the very limited minority
whose business it is, for their profit TO
invent new and not always desirable
fashions. OF course there are waists
and waists, and Of course the most
high class modistes or importers, and
the range from these special elegant
garments down to the cashmere waists
sold for less than a dressmai1er would
lit and finish one for, is something won
derful. one cannot cordially praise
many of the models offered even at
frst-class retail houses that are made
of flimsy mulIs and other perisha-
ble materials, and 50 gathered and puff
fed. and p,eated, and tucked, that not
q few look rumpled and Wilted while
still in The hands of the seller. yet they
are marked at what seems an absurd
" high price. The waist may be silk
lined and the outer material chiffon
and it may possibly bear the name of
some famed designer. and yet woman
of taste would quickly pass it by for
one of palmer and more durable style.
If one would be economical and at the
same time gain in appearance by the
choice. she would better select a good
quality of, say, fancy satin. in dark
blue, dotted or hair-lired with gold. or
if more becoming, a deep Jacqueminot
red, barred lightly or dotted with black
or green; adding to the collar, belt and
sleeves narrow but handsome gimp
trimming, plain or "jeweIed." After
wearing the waist many times. it will
be found very little the worse for its
use. The posses eSsOr Of the more ephe-
neral waists. necessary. Of course. for
full-dreSS occasions, can but regard
fheir condition with dismay even after
a few hours wear. The weight OF an
opera cloak has a most demoralizing ef-
feet on chiffon. The traditional butter
fiy's wing is not more easily brushed to
destruction. Rrocaded silk is now fash
ionably used for fitted bl0uses and fan
cy waists. and IS likewise requisitioned
for parts Of the bodice formed Of faced
cloth, wool canvas, boucle textiles. silk
and Wool goods etc, to which the bro
cade imparts 4 distinctly dressy ap-
pearance.
Many Of the latest wedding gowns
have little bolero jacket fronts. made Of
very rich Venetian point, Honiton. or
duchesse lace, and the satin striped
ceinture is fastened with liu.le buckles
set with French briliants and points
finished with an applique trimming Of
the lace. Other Partisan models are
en- princesse, with slashed corsages and
sleeve puffs. the slashings draped with
pearl-dctted mousselaine de sole over
are high. haring queen Bess repllcas.
covered with a dense network of pearl
and crystal beads.
\ very marked feature Of present
modes IS the existence everywhere on
every style of gown of the square
fronted Russian jackets the bolero, the
Eton. or the rounded zouave style. and
also the abundance of decoration about
the neck-Stuart ruehes, Queen Bess
ruifs Josephine fraises. Marie Antoi-
nette hchus. Vandyke, Rubens and
charies y. collarettes, battlemented col
iarS' and outstanding frills. Medici and
Rooespierre collars and cravats. ruches
ana oo"s Of immense size are worn in
The most becoming manner. and the art
oi making up fur into tiny fanciful
points, collets. borderings of jacket
fronts, and yokes, as if it were velvet,
brocade' or cloth. has developed scores
OF novelties during the season.
Shirts of handsome dove -colored Mel
ton cloth are stylishly worn under the