The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-06-28
Modish Gowns
Worn by Women On and
Off the Stage

short jackets in lowered silks or elabo-
rately trimmed taffetas, and mousseline
de sole capes opening over lace, or fancy
bodices encircled with golden or jeweled
Wristbands. Many Wristbands worn were
made OF heavy gallon, embroidered in
the Russian style with large cabochons
or with compact masses of golden BEADS
dividing the belt into compartments.
Some were composed of bronze and steel
spangles, sewn upon an elastic foundation
so ingeniously fastened as to remind one
of the scales OF fish, and almost equally
brilliant and beautiful. Others were in
leather covered with a sort of mother-of-
pearl tissue, with blue or pinky tints.
Cheap limitations of these are abominable
and not to be tolerated. The simple belts
of the best white or cream kid, with a
queer head as a fastening, are in good
taste.
We are all interested in cravats and the
"Cravate Guizot" is the latest, 1t has
been so called as it resem bles slightly the
old-fashioned stock worn by Monsieur
Guizot. 1t is really too warm for summer
and is composed of either black or white
MORE, showing at the top narrow line of
turned over linen collar. 1t is scarf.like
in form, passed from front to back and
then brought forward and knotted in
sailor knot with long ends. We are in
structed to wear it with either ecru or
colored silk batiste blouses. Blouses are
now to be had of great elegance and per-
fectly cut. In price they are extraordi-
narily extravagant.
The fchu bravely holds its own, and the
latest is of lowered taffeta. The large
Powered silk paletot-sec is built quite
short with deep lounce of plisse NOUS
seine de sole, usually black, at the bottom.
The sleeves are enormously wide, so as to
slip easily over those belonging to the
bodice, and the main trimmings are loops
and bows of black satin ribbon, generously
disposed back and front. The taffeta
fichus have black and white gauze plisses
on their edges very often, showing charm
ing plsstrons, which should harmonic
with the colors of the silk. Wide satin belts
are frequently worn, of course black is
preferred, which enfold the back and front
ends of the tichu. The fchu will not
have the necessary air of style without
belt as it gives the pretty waist line.
Black satin corselets of ribbon are seen on
colored nfuslins, orgendies and ind eed on
every description of light transparent ma
terials, and also upon the favorite white
taffetas with the porcelaine-b ara
besques and the crepe de Chine dresses,
when the entire costume is of one color.
The ten-gored skirt most worn in the
evening on cersmonious occasions meas
ures exactly six and a hall yards round;
for simple skirts nine cores are all-sufi-
cient. For those who have dressmaking
done at home l strongly advise using pat
terms that are not only correct and re-
liable. but those which are easily followed,
because accompanied by full size model,
neatly put together.
The very latest evening dresses have no
sleeves, but our low-cut bodices would in
deed have a very unfinished appearance
were this remark to be taken literally;
but no sleeves in this case means that
there is neither a long nor short sleeve,
nor in fact any kind of sleeve of the ma
terial of the frock, either silk or satin
only billowy mass of tuIla finishes the
bodice at the shoulder. Layers upon
layers of unhemmed tulle, like a ballet
dancers skirt, start from the armhole and
just cover the top of the arm. This tulle |
can be of any color harmonizing with the |
IoIet, DuJ Wn1te, PINK OF Nile green are |
usually employed. The effect is ravish-
ing, as nothing is so softening and becom-
ing TO the complexion as tulle, and the !
neck of such a bodice is usually finished /
with soft folds of the tulle. Truly, how
quickly we lay aside our most cherished |
modes for the --latest" which we fall in |
love with promptly and declare to be the
most beautiful ever devised.
At the present moment Frenchwomen |
are raving over crepe de Chine, and writes |
a correspondent: Every good gown 1 |
meet displays this most charming fobric, |
the palest shade of pavement gray and |
Tuscan tone being unquestionably the |
most favored hues, while the trimming is |
mostly embroidered lawn, traced with a
little gold thread, and the belt may be |
formed of glace silk, and belts are details |
to which the Frenchwoman is much de-
voted. She prefers these In corselet form
folded round her waist, extending almost !
TO her bust, where some soft muslin or
chiffon will overhang them. Black silk |
and Chine silk make these corselets as
rule, and the bodice usually boasts small
frilIed basque BENEATH them.