The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-19
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
N NOAANS REALM.
1oEaxe0p

The idea of short skirt costume
for rainy-day wear has been smolder-
ing in the minds of many of our prom
inent women for some time, and it
only needs the actual appearance of a
few of our girls in the stylish costume
that has been designed by an east
ern house for the idea to blaze into
enthusiasm. 1t will be a boon especi-
ally to business women who never can
spare time to go home and change
their rain-soaked and Dedraggled
skirts, SO that they often have to sit
all day in their offices with their skirts
wet TO their knees.
The costume is Of black rain-proof
material that resembles broadcloth.
The high bicycle boots lose themselves
under a tailormade skirt that just es-
capes the ankle, short enough to be
graceful. and is three yards in width.
A REFER jacket is worn with high
collar and neclstie, and an Alpine hat
gives the finishing touch of graceful
severity.
The storm cape, with high collar,
reaching to the edge of the skirt, is to
be added in severe weather.
y
Every matron and maid is hunting
and talking coats, wraps and cloaks.
AS the autumn days grow shorter and
colder the mothers and their daugh-
tiers haunt the tailors' and cloak de-
partments of the large shops. The
change in sleeves this season is 20 rad
ical that few of the coats and Jackets
of last winter can be worn. and long
hours are spent by the women in see
ing the effect of this years garments.
There are nearly as many styles as there
are purchasers. Light colored cloth
coats will be as popular this winter as
last spring, but the women who have
to be content with one coat for street
wear will be wise in choosing a black
or dark blue, for a tan jacket is soon
conspicuous if worn constantly. The
jackets are fur trimmed, and although
collars of stone martin are shown on
the most fashionable coats, astrakhan
and chinchilla will be much worn.
Capes will play the same part in the
costume of well dressed woman as
in the past few years, for the ease with
which these wraps can be removed at
lectures, clubs and matinees has made
them dear to the feminine heart.
y b y
There are no better staying gowns
than mohairs and alpacas, as every
one is finding out to the end that we
are besieged with them as winter
gowns. The material is so adaptable
to the various modes of trimming. and
seems made for almost any occasion,
according to the manner of treatment.
A stunning alpaca was made re-
Gently for one of the autumn brides.
1t was of silvery gray, made up ex-
quisitely with peacock blue and green
plaided silk and black silk embroidery.
The wide skirt was perfectly plain,
save for the fluffy interlining, consist
ing of sets of chameleon blue and
green plaid silk frills. 1t fits closely
over the hips and has the fullness
brought we'll toward the back. The
nobby little coat flares out over the
hips and has position back, arranged
in a triple set of small plairs, opened
to show a fan of the silk set in under
meath. At the front 1T opens wide
across the bust, narrowing into a point
at the waist line, to show a soft folded
vest of silvery gray mousSeline de sole,
brought into a stock collar of blue
velvet. The front of the jacket is
slashed sharply to the bust. showing
an underpiece of the plaid. Above
this glares a broad sailor collar of the
silver gray alpaca, all lined over with
narrow rows of the silk braid set at
regular intervals. A small braided de-
sign ornameucs the corners of he
FROM of the Jacket as we'll as the
wrist of the leg-o'mutton sleeve. a
fetching hat to be worn with this gown
had a rather wide brim of black bea-
yer. with a high, bell-shaped crown,
around which was clustered a thick
ruche of chameleon blue and green
taffeta ribbon, edged with the narrow
est black velvet ribbon. A stiff cluster
of loops at the left side finished this
bit of elegance.
Stiff belts are out of fashion. So are
the narrow ones. 1t is the girdle of
velvet or ribbon that reigns. More than
the new gowns this fall are made with
a gird1e. The girdles are wide and
soft, and cling effectively to the figure.
Some of them are finished at the back
in a bow with long sash ends, others
are shaped exactly like a butterfly.
Buttons are much used to trim the
girdles, but they must never be alike.
a novel idea is the girdle of three
folds of velvet, each fold being finished
at the left side with a different button.
Of course, the buttons must be some
thing out of the ordinary or they can
not be used. There are other girdleS
which are finished at the side with
three or four bows, one above the
other.
Inc new trimmings 1Or party gowns
all sparkle with jewels. Not only are
they studded with scfntillating gems,
but there are intricate designs worked
in jewels and spangles. The finest of
the trimmings for evening costumes
have for their foundation silk gauze.
This airy fabric is then embroidered
with silk flowers, the petals of which
CLEAN with tiny jewels. An exquisite
piece of jewelled trimming is Of faint
yellow gauze, with s1naI daisies en-
| broidered in white silk upon it. And
the center of each daisy is a topaz
Nothing could be more beautiful than
this trimming on a white MORE gown
The fluffy collarette of chiffon, lace
and spangles, which is so much the
vogue this year, is not nearly SO frivol-
Gus as it seems. Oftentimes it covers
UP worn spot or a stain most effect
ually, while always it can be relied
upon to give a fresh, new touch to a
bodice a trifle the worse for wear. AS
for the collarettes themselves, their
name is legion. Some are not more
than a collar, with big bow in front
others make a most satisfactory substi-
tute for an entire bodice. But all of
them are prettier this year than they
have ever been before. and, sad to re-
late, twice as expensive.
y \ y
There is a new glove in town. It is
made of glace kid, and has an odd little
pointed cuff of suede. The cuff falls
over the glove in a point just above The
wrist, but it also may be folded back,
adding to the length of the glove. The