The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
A T elk
Croation
Gown Designed
for Princess
Maud
Beautiful Novelties
From Fashionable
Centers Of
Europe

of silk muslin striped with sets of gold tin
sci or silk lines; from below the upper part
of the sleeves to tho elbow the decreasing
fulIness is arranged into spaced tucks
White satin bolero elaborateIy embroid-
cred with gold and edged with lace re-
Iieved with gold threads, and finished off
with smart revers in mordore velvet, each
forming double points divided by taper
ing fluting, and resting on delicate accor-
dion pleatings of pink and green silk
muslin. Long vest fronts in cream lace,
describing close. coquilles round the neck
and down the sides. Velvet belt grace
fully knotted into loops and ear-like ends.
Toque in fluffy lsse or white silk muslin,
composed of masses of fine faille pleatings
outlined with baby ribbon in black velvet,
= which are yelled round the brim with
black tulle. Wide loop to match. White
and black oiseaux,de paradis plu mes. A
tuft of roses and choux of muslin raise the
brim at the back.
The pretty evening frock is model of
simplicity. being made of pale rose
glace taffeta. The bodice is gracefully
draped with white monsseline de sole,
two long scarfs of which extend down
the right side dyed with lace at the ends,
thickly over it. The same lace forms the
very stylish sleeves. An edging of opals is
seen on the mousseline. which is artisti-
cally carried from the right arm to the left
side at the waist line.
The tea gown is one just com pleted for the
trousseau of the Princess Maud. The de-
sign, for slender woman, is very grace
full. 1t is carried out in turquoise blue
, figured silk striped with black. The yoke
Is made OF straps of white guipure over
black satin, alternating with bouillonnes
of the blue silk. The puffs of the sleeves
are trimmed to match. The Vatican back
is drawn in at the waist by girdle of
black ribbon. The gown is lined with
lighter shade of blue silk.
l see that the Duchess of Marlborough
was present at the marriage of Lady
Sophie Cadogan which was the smartest
wedding of the season in London. The
Duchess wore pink and gray shot glace
silk, with -coIlar-band and sash of pink
giace. Her large black hat had ostrich
plumes to match and bow of gray chine
ribbon. The very pretty bride wore an
unusually charming gown. 1t was OF the
richest ivory satin obtainable. Round
the hem of the skirt and the long train
was embroidered beautiful floral design
in silver and small pearls. This was fin
ished at the edge with three tiny ruches of
chiffon The bodice was made with a
chiffon yoke narrowly tucked and bor-
dered with exquisite Brussels lace, over
which softly draped chiffon inserted with
pearl and silver embroidery, was drawn
into high satin sash. The transparent
sleeves, of drawn chiffon, were completed
at the top with bow epaulets of embroid-
cred satin. Lady sophie's "going-away"
dress, of ivory crepe de chine, had SIM
pie but lovely bodice draped with AIencon
lace, caught at one side with the palest
Malmaison carnations.
At the neck a soft touch of this becom-
ing silk was introduced. A quaint little
cravat of lace was very becoming. The
long, tight-fitting sleeves of ruched
mousseIine de sole had epaulets of crepe
de chine, and the full. softly hanging
skirt was edged with a ruching of mousse
line and lace insertions. Her large white
hat was covered with feathers. The seven
bridesmaids were attIred alike in gauzy
and ethereal gowns of ivory mousseline de
sole, the full bodices yelled with founces of
deep cream lace, lightly embroidered with
diamonds. The long sleeves of lace were
transparent from the elbow, and the soft
skirts, the foundations of which were
of accordion-pleated glace, were yelled
with two skirts OF mousseline de sole, the
top one being finished with a narrow tulie
ruche. The long sashes were of white
glace ribbon. with design of garlands of
pale tinted flowers, tied with small true
lovers knots, and were fastened OH ole
side with diamond buttons, the long
ends falling to the edge of the
skirts. Their hats were of white fancy
straw, caught up on one side and softly
draped around the crowns with folds of
white tulle. They were trimmed with
glace ribbon to match the sashes black
tulle and plume of feathers on one side
tied with a DOW of ribbon. The Princess
of Wales was in lovely dress of ivory
silk, brocaded in design of mauve con-
volvulus with folded belt and collar OF
.mauve satin, and the skirt edged with lace
insertion. The Princess wore a white
bonnet wreathed with mauve rulle,
sprinkled with gold sequins with small
tips of the same hue on the left side. The
Princesses Victoria and Maud OF Wales
were dressed alike in grass lawn embroi
dered in pale blue and made up over blue
silk; the fronts of the bodices were prettily
draped with blue chiffon, the sashes and
collars matching, and the skirts were
edged with a narrow blue frill. They wore
toques composed of deep-hued roses anc
foliage, with blue osprey at the side.
II any of my readers secured at the re-
cent silk sales goodIy number of yard,
OF crepe de chine they can at once have &
gown in the very latest style, as there i!
an absolute rage for this fabric in Pari:
and London. One creation of the pales
shade of gray has the hem of the skirt
trimmed with three very narrow frills O.
Valenciennes lace. The bodice overhangs q
corselet, and brace-like paulettes are
made Of creamy lace studded with silver
sequins. Round the waist is twisted &
belt of cherry.colored silk, which again
appears at the neck. Quite as lovely il
one OF pale lavender tone. The simple
skirt hangs perfectly, and the well-cu'
bodice has niched sleeves of white mousse