Omaha daily bee., 1896-11-15


back cut bias and drawn smoothly over the
lining without seams. Bodice trimming is
placed on the upper half and takes the form
OF draped yoke or b0lero. At the back
Of the neck there is not so much display Of
bow as there was. The newest idea Is 20
bind a colored ribbon with black velvet and
sew 1t in three or four loops inside the neck
round the back Very simple sleeves, cut
all 10 one piece are being made by the best
houses. They fan naturally and without
any s'ufluE, though the bodice trimming
may be carried out over them 20 form an
cpauette effect. Butterfly or wing or shiny
drspory is avoided as looking too pro-
nounCcd
The princess form o, gown is being CON
slderably worn. il also is trimmed with
yoke or bolero, and may have trimming
round the foot. One Of dark blue velvet with
a deep rufie put on TO form a yoke with
epaulettes has the edge Of the rufie and the
foot Of the skirt trimmed with band Of
white Culupe borlered each side with sable.
Another one has the baCl, cut down in points
over white lace laid on the lining underneath
and forming a Euimpe The velvet back and
front meet in two points on each shoulder
under jeweled buttons collar bands Of vel
vet This gown was made by Felix.
Among other new models is one with the
skirt OF Leaf brown armure interviewer with
silver threads a bolero Of the same color in
velvet and blouse Of gray chiffon sp8uEled
with silver. gown with skirt Of black
MORE has holero OF black velvet over a
blouse OF black muusselue de sole. There
is a jet on the hulerO An orange cOOred
ribbon peeps out Of the rerkbaud behind
and the blouse druups over a belt Of the
same color. With the same materials an
other gown has the silver arranged iu low
necked blouse over the high blouse mousse
line.
A novelty in bouses for wear with SILK
skirts is all OF silk except the front, which
huU IHF f.F n4. sill ha FFaT TFH
part Of plated mousseliue de sole This is car
rleJ with more or less success in black bro
cade silk sprigced with rose and front OF
rose moussellue. Rose velvet Is
in the neck band behind. one in
dark green velvet has pale
hlue front Another is IN blue and green
chanECablc silk with green Grape front and
another IN white mu.re with pink front
sewn over with imitation pearls. This last
has the neck band of the pink and pearls,
bound with white round the top.
BALL GOWNS.
In evening gowns there is very little nov.
city as yet. The bodice is pointed in front
and round in the back and is laced or
hooked in the back. il is cut straight across
the neck and the sleeves are set on above
the neck to give q square effect NeCks are
only moderately low. Some sleeves fall OF
the shoulders and straps take their place as
a support. These bands give opportunity
to utilize jewels If one has them. The usual
sleeve forms pun. either single or over
tapping ruifles. Some BAH gowns but lot
all, have girdle belts and sash end.
IL is still a question as TO whether there
will be much vogue for fowerel silks
Worth seems 10 count upon ID absolutely.
since his house is well stocked with elabO-
rate brocades, but Worth s custom is largely
among a foreign clientele and in court
gowns where he can dictate himself il is
not so certain that this will be the choice
lF Tn1~ HgfU Vrnv nos ~ "a
leaning toward satin gowns with hand en-
bruidery on the front. Also very beautiful
gowns are made Of blocked or plated silks
in delicate tints, as Of blue and rose, pearl
or pale yellow. These are trimmed simply
with black velvet. These ruffes overlap on
the skirt running close together in front
and spreading toward the back, so as 10
take the outline OF curve The sleeves are
made OF the rufles. A gown OF TINS soH'
In yellow mousseline bound with olhch mas
black velvet on the bodice forming
knnited scarf across the back and holero
in front Jahots OF white lace fall from un-
der the front OF the bolero, ana shaueG
orange velvet forms a knot at the neck ana
at the belt. -. -,
plated mousseline de sole enrlcheu VIZ VIZ
hands OF lace or jewelled passemenierle
running down from the belt at intervals
With this skirt is a velvet bodice Win
cbemisette Of the mOusseline.
For remodeling soiled evening gowns a
useful adjunct is transparent ecru INES
either embroidered or plain pam lIt
rufHes are bound with black velvet IL
harmonizes particularly well with PINK,
Add a belt and shoulder straps OF shaded
velvet running from pale rise down 10 req
THE FASHIONABLE COUTURE.
I have II on the authority OF Lutherlc
Tint in obedience to the change in hats the
hair is being worn higher upon the heaa.
The knot is now carried up lar enough 20
90 under the hat crown which is now hlsh
enough to contain it. This Is natural etort
at adjustment OF lines and was TO nave peeu
avnected The method is TO wave II all
round as heretofore, draw II hlGh INTO d
small knot and set a narrow spanish CONN
behind the knot The ears are uhoo'tItS,
hut the waves cf the back fall loose enough
To FIJI the space behind them, and at each
side the forehead may fall little fringe,
This is called the Louis NN, mode ana VIII
preyau for the winter. The evening colnure
does not differ from that OF the day tActp'
by the addition OF an ornament On account
Of the simplicity of this arrangement even
inr ornaments are small. Diamonds are
SET in q delicate balanced spray 10 be placed
lust in front OF the kLot. Heavy corohels
are not worn. ...,
What becomes then Of the "Boticelli,'
those fluffy ear curtains that for year
past have made the caricaturists JOY !
asked the master coitieurs this and ne re-
piled: "There are at present TWO distinct
modes in hair; that OF the grande monde
and that 81 the demi monde. The mode oi
the first is not the BOtcellL'
NOTES on BICYCLE DRESS.
While the eternal discussion goes on be-
tween the merits OF trousers and pttucoals
DEVELOPMENT seems to run actively along
both lines and it seems certain that bicycle
dress is only at the beginning OF its eyolu-
tiOn. In France no attempt Is maze 10 con
form. since ii is considered that as yet there
is no standard.
Starting with the skirt as an expert
mental basis. il is either long or short. or
wide or narrow according 10 caprice one
OF the most successful skirts seen al Trou-
Vile was in a thousand orimPed plaits that
foated backward and gave the effect OF the
winged wheel OF fortune
AS TO trousers they have been refined by
thousand subtle lines. such as mere men
never dreamed OF.
The preferred upper garment as said
above. appears to ne the short, loose coat.
II dfsguises the width OF the hips and when
all is said and done what fashion IS after