The San Francisco call., 1896-05-10

and beautiful is the result when gold or sill
yer are skillfully employed. The designs of
such valuable laces as Brussels or antique
point have been detached from the ground,
laid on silk or satin and allowed to form
part of the embroidery, often powdered
with paillettes. Expense certainly is sell
dom considered by the smart woman now
adays. Honiton lace is again in favor.
We will be glad to see it once more.
On the fronts of some of the newest
evening bodices are strings OF pearls which
are caught up on the front with hand
some ornament and jewel a la Tudor.
Satin is much used at present ana many
of the latest gowns have their seams out
lined with steel and jet beads, the bodice
invariably showing similar treatment.
The most fashionable of the MORE vel
vatin and MORE mou1le have beautiful
silvery sheen, and numerous are the deli
cate shades in which they are to be had.
Many artificial flowers are used on ball
gowns; they are usually yelled in tulle.
Chatelaines of flowers are frequently
seen, and roses without foliage are u fad.
Never before has straw been so much
employed as an embroidery; for instance, a
Paris dress, from one of the most noted
houses is of black satin combined with
black velvet trimmed with straw, worked
with mother-of-pearl. The result may be
excellent, it certainly is novel if nothing
else. Shot and chameleon effects appear
III DOkQ HldteIldIS anu JTlIn HlDSS ana now
form the groundwork of many floral
chimes.
Purchase no red fabrics unless you must
have one luncheon gown, then have a serge
for the house, otherwise you will be the re-
verse of smart, red having been completely
banished, and right GLAD | am that it no
longer is worn in the evening, as delicate
lovely gowns are faded looking affairs
when brought in contact with so strong
hue. Crimson is used with good results
occasionally, as u cravat, and punches of
red popp1es are seen on numerous fans
and hats.
Now that the sleeves are decreasing in
size we may expect, by fall, to consider
skirt four yards in circumference ample,
and as the sleeves diminish, so are the
reSers shrinking and the collars are like
wise affected.
The principal difference between our
skirts this season and last is to be found
tight over the hips, the fullness being all
at the back, more becoming arrange
IN ent than formerly.
In Paris blue serge is being much used
and in England the light drab cloths so
much liked by French women is quite ''the
thing" cannot understand the hold
alpaca and mohair has obtained on the
fashionable world, as for my part l would
prefer the simplest little cloth gown to the
handsomest mohair or alpaca one that
could be made. However, this season is
likely to see the last of these materials.
There has just been placed on the market
delightful new weave of canvas of q crepe
like texture. 1t is extremely thin and
very expensive, so it will never become
common, strong recommendation to
many.
For those who do not care for 1attersall
walstcoats, and vet do not wish to make
the extravagant outlay necessary for the
tulle and mousseline de sole ones, would
sugges that they should have waistcoat
made by good woman of an excellent quail
lty of white silk or satin, for with this as
a foundation they can readily arrange
themselves ruffies of hemstitched or
tucked muslin, which will wash perfectly
and nable the economical to always be
well supplied with effective and pretty
waistcoats. Pale blue, white, pink ana
lavender muslin can be used, and fre-
quently the frills are edged with lace.
When a straight loose front is more be-
coming the muslin can be tucked or in
crusted with lace, producing an excellent
effect. The foundation must, of course,
fasten down the back or at one side and
must he well boned.
The new shade of hyacinth blue is GER
tainly stylish, but becoming to but few.
Many shirt waists are being made up in |
silk and linen of this color, and with white
linen collars and cuffs, are great favorites. |
Some manufacturers are trying to intro |
duce rep, but l trust without success, as
it had never been favorlte of mine |
When mentioning my dislike to alpaca |
and mohair l should have added that it |
does make excellent petticoats for the |
country and a good lining for skirts.
From France have been sent out the |
latest novelties in gloves. The backs are I
elaborately sewn with double twist of |
purse silk, intermixed with small beads. |
In many cases these are gold, but some
times the three stripes each display a
different color-brown, blue and ruby, |
tinted iridescent beads. They are to be |
had in such variety that one need never
have a pair that does not harmonic with
their gowns in coloring. Highly colored
gloves in many of the so-called --latest
summer shades should be let severely
alone.
Those who are about to furnish their
homes should remember that for dining
room beautiful real old English oak is
never out OF style, and now antiouated
old oak Welsh "dressers, which take the
place of buffets or sideboards, are the rage
in London. They make admirable back
grounds for blue china, and old brass and
copper jugs and plates. Sometimes in
such rooms are placed "gate tables" which
are valued possessions. Rarely are more
th an two seen in such room, as they are
of goodiy size. Many halls also are fitted
in oak, and great is the variety to be
had in hall chairs and tables. The latest
tables are round, and have places for
china and books.
When oak is considered too dark and
heavy, either Chlppendale or Sheraton are
usually selected. Much bedroom furniture
is also made up in these styles. The toilet
tables having heart-shaped glasses are
much liked. Houses should be furnished
in harmony, but aasl how many are ?
Avoid pretentious shams and purchase
good things when starting out to keep
i
handsome chairs and tables at first.
Those living in small houses are fire..
quently at a loss to know how best to en-
tertain their friends, so now East buffet