The daily morning journal and courier., 1896-08-13
SOME ADVANCE HINTS ON AU-
 TIIMN FASHIONS

It is too early yet to predict with cer- tainty what all the styles for next au- tumn and winter are to be, but there are some straWs to show which way the autumn winds will blow, and women of keen observation already are noting some of the signs. Braiding will be one of the new fashions, and even now is seen on the summer gowns. A gown of pale yellow pique has the broad col lar of the Eton jacket a mass of white soutache braid put on in a most intri- cate pattern, and sewed only on one side, so that 1t stands up in a distinct line Among the smartest gowns in a trousseau that one of the summer brides is displaying is a gown of dark blue butchers linen with the body of the waist covered with this same braid- ing The blouse front Is exceedingly graceful in the way it hangs, and the pattern of bralding is so cleverly ar ranged that it gives a long line, and does not cut the figure as an ordinary braided waist sometimes does. On the more elaborate cloth costumes broader braid is laid on in rows an inch apart. sometimes entirely around the skirt, elSahi OliIy Oi tuC SluC llil- ished with small cricket buttons at either end. This braid Is sewed on to the sides and is laid flat on the mate- rial.
 Braiding is pleasant work and it is possible for a woman to braid a waist, gown or jacket so that it will look as though turned out by professional, if she has the pattern carefully stamped. Black cloth costumes braided in the front breadth, or with front breadth plain and side breadths braided, are to be among the winter gowns, while brown with green braiding will again be fashionable.
 The Turkish jackets, heavily braided in gold and finished with ball fringe, are occasionally worn with summer gowns, and, over the full blouses of white chiffon, are exceedingly smart. These jackets are sleeveless and the soft folds of the chiffon or mousseline de sole are in pretty contrast to the heavy cloth and the gilt braid, The Turkish braiding is, of course, very much more elaborate than any other, and Is sewed so that flat effect is pre- sented
 The cloth waists next winter are to have the body of the waist braided and the sleeves plain. This will give much the same effect that having the waist of lace or chiffon has done, and cannot be called an absolutely new idea; but 1t is becoming style. and so is bound to be popular, although many women prefer the pointed braided vests, with collar and cuffs to match; when the latter style is chosen, the braid is put on velvet and gives q much richer look. The odd contrasts of color will die out by this means, it is said, but that remains to be seen.
 Cut work and applique always are in fashion when braiding is. and lace is now appliqued on the most incongru- ous of materials. Laid on satin, the rare pieces of old point show to great advantage, but 1t does seem like van- dalism to see lace on some tawdry cot ton gown laid over bit of odd-colored silk, without any apparent reason. For instance, an apple-green muslin made up over white taffeta, smart looking, to be sure, but of quite inex- pensive quality, has trimming on the waist of real Valenciennes lace ap- plidued on green silk in long points sewed down to outline the figure most becomingly. Lace is always so beau- tiful it seems pity to use it in such a fashion, and to cut it so ruthlessly as must needs be done to make the jacket effect---Harper's Bazaar.