The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

-LHE sleeves and skirts having so
&sS diminished in size we are not alto
MN gether surprised st the announce
ment that the long, close-fitting redingote
has appeared in Paris lined with either
quilted silks or fur. One OF dark shade
of prune vigogne lined with silvery gray
silk was favorably commented on. 1t
touched the ground all around, was
double breasted, had wide revers, small
cape, and entonnoir collar all composed
of chlncilla. Long and wide were the
sleeves, and inside the wrist was band
of chinchilla. With this garment went u
large muff OF chinchilla, at one side of
which was fastened a great bunch OF
violets. Similar redingotes may be
evolved from black vlgogne and sable, or
petunia cashmere cloth and bison, etc.,
with excellent results.
For young girls there are some pretty
white cloth jackets, made like the summer
ones in pique, but double breasted, with
large nacre buttons; revers and high collar
of chinchilla or marten. With this
Russian toque looks well, made of velvet
the same color as the dress, with band OF
fur round, and small fiat muff 10 match.
The white cloth can easily be cleaned Il OF
the best quality. To wear over cloaks or
other garments, iur shoulder cape with
square ends in front, descending below the
waist is much in vogue, and is called a
dalmatique. The same shape can also be
made in other materials; for instance, a
beautiful long white satin cloak for even
ing wear had over it dalmatique of white
lampas broche with large roses of various
shades, edged with frills of mousseline de
sole, over which fell guipure in gold
Renaissance. The cloak had high col
lar of white eiderdown.
At the great designers are shown a
goodly array of dresses for morning
wear, one being of warm, rich shade OF
blue cloth. The well-hung skirt had a
deep border of black EN- broidery round
the bottom; the bodice was of a really
beautiful quality of rich. soft silk that
exactly matched the cloth. 1t was made
rather full in front, and had three rows CT
openwork black embroidery nearly an
inch and half wide. A band of the same
insertion encircled the wrists. A bolero
was worn over this of the same cloth as
the skirt, handsomely embroidered all
around. Il was cut up at the back IN a
kind of vandyke. Round the waist was
softly folded band of elegant Persian silk,
in which were mingled the harmonious
tones of green, pink and blue with charm
ing results; this tied at one side In a
graceful bow. The lining throughout was
of taffeta glace, which changed from
green to blue, from blue to black.
Equally elegant was house dress of
dove-gray cashmere. the lower part of the
skirt worked in an arabesque pattern in
Jet beads; the back of the bodice was
close fitting, with little beadwork; the
front was slightly fulIed in at the waist,
and seemed to open at the left side, edged
with a narrow row of sealskin, which con-
tinued in sloping direction down the
left size of the skirt and all round the
foot. The sleeves were little full at the
top and then close fitting TO the wrist,
with the same design in beadwork car
ried out on the upper part of the sleeve
round the waist gold MORE band with
bow at the side, and the neck band OF the
same. This dress would look extremely
well in pale lavender or mauye. Collar in
black MORE.