The daily morning journal and courier., 1896-07-17
SECRET OF coon COPPER.
Nothing to be Compared With Pure Java,
 Saws an Expert

sIAe cOIIee expert had finished eating the substantiall part of his dinner, and the waiter had just brought to him the first one of his tnvariable two cups of coffeea The expent poured hot milk into the coh'ee, tested the mixture, and his eyes sllone with delight as he ex- claimed
 "Ah, that's @ fine cup of coffee. It is pure Java, and of the best quality, and l think can guess just how it comes that we havenit got the usual mixture tonight.
 You see," he' continued, "tha coffee we usually get here Is a mixture of half and half Java and Maracaibo--and a very good mixture it is, .too-but there is nothing like the pure Java, Now, what has happened is this: The res taurant man has sent in a. hlarry for coffee at a late hour, and the clerk who was to make the mixture has found the Maracaibo bin empty. So,, rather than get out a fresh supply of Mara caibo, he has filled the order entirely from the Java bin. It was easy for him, but rough om his employer, for this Java is worth seven cents a pound more than the Maraeaibo."
 What is the best coffee in the world, and where does it come from?"Fone of his companions asked.
 'Java," was the laconic answer.
 "But we read in novels about the he roes or heroines sitting down to a cup of the fragrant Mochav and the term is used with an air of assurance as much as to say that when Et came to coffee there was but one kinh, and that was Mocha What is Mocha?"
 Mocha is mostly a tradition and wholly a fraud" declared the expert. There is no coffee grown about Mocha, but there are Indian coffees shipped from Mocha. The peculiarity of the Mocha of the trade is that it is com posed mostly of round berries instead of flat berries of the more perfect cof- fees. These round berries, or peaber- ries, as they are also called, are simply ill-grown, imperfect fruit Most of what is sold for Mocha in the stores is made up from the imperfect berries which have been sorted out from the mild coffee of Mexico and Central America and Santos coffees. In some stores you can buy the genuine Mocha and when you get it you are worse, off than if you have the imitation.
 "How it that?"
 Tt is sure to be full of Quakers.'
 s'And what are ,Quakersc"
 "The next time you go into 8 coffee store take up a handful of roasted cof- fee and spread 1t out. If it looks alike in color it is free from Quakers, but if you find here and there berries which are lighter in color than the rest pick them out. These are the Quakers."
 "When coffee is gathered 1t has about the berries a soft pulp. To get Yid of this the berries are put out on mats and left to ferment. This rots off the outer pulp and it can thea be got rid of. But this process of fermentation sometimes goes too far and affscts the berries. This is more apt to be true with the imperfect berries than with the others. If you will take The Quak- CTS and break them open you will find that they present all the stages of de- cay Some of them are merely dry rot ted and have no flavor of any kind. From this they will vary untii,you come to the worst ones, which smell like rot ten potatoes when they are opened. One bean of this kind will spoil whole grinding of coffee and any coffee with Quakers will be bad. Mocha has more than any other kind"
 But suppose you get rid of the Quak- CTS, how is the Mocha then. z"
 "Stili bad. It has little flavor. and to make up for this lack the dealers give it very dark roasting. Then they recommend it to the people to add strength to the light, mild Java It does add strength to the colo.' of the extract, but that is due entirely to the burnt sugar and starch in tue vegetable matter in the bean. Roast d peas would answer the same purpose.
 "There are two things which peopl1 imagine are guides to the goodness ,. coffee which the really of no conse- luence whatever. These ace: The colol of the decoction and tho aroma of the coffee when 1t is ground or as 1t es- capes from the pot in Grawng. Tho color is due almost entirely tc the roast. ing. This is true also of tea The fin est coffees and teas when properly roasted and prepared to give out theil finest flavor will color the wattr bu little. The reGl essence which gives tho flavor have practically no color.
 "The public seemingly knows but lit tie of what the real taste of coffee ebculd be. It confounds the bitter tastt of the roasted vegetable matter witt the entirely dissimilar flavor of the cof tee, and learns to like this so much tha 1t insists upon having the coffee roast ed so highly that any flavor of coffe, which it might have had is driven off AS to the aroma, that is the true es sence of the coffee. The reason tha this is no guide to the quality of tn berry is that there Is just as much o this essence present in the rankest cof fees as there is in the mild ones. You nose would be as delighted with tn aroma from a lot of fresh roasted Ri coffee as it would with the finest Java 1 un the coarse favored coffees there ar oils present which spoil the extrac, The oils are more or less volatile, an many of these coffees are improved b.
 RnIIGH ON RAIcl