The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-03-01
A Woman Should Walk Little
and Sleep Much and
Often.
MUST ALSO WEAR NIGHTCAPs.
Evolution of the Women's Suppers.
Substitution of Brandy and Soda
for Champagne.

stamp of the Beardsley school, are falling
back on that old, if somewhat trite, say
ing, ga thing of beauty is Joy forever"
There must be a demand for beauty, or
rather a demand for the means tending
toward beauty. In one bookshop I dis
covered many books, wise ones, that told
how to care for the complexion; many
others that explained how angles could
be come curves, how dull eyes could be
made bright, and how inferior brains
could be developed into brains far beyond
the average. Then there are innumerable
pamphlets of the olden day, in which the
seeker after the beautiful, as depicted IN
her own person, is advised to get up early
and breathe the first air of the newborn
day If she wishes to be ''sweet OF face,
sweet of breath and sweet of skin" This
may answer for August, but any wOuld-be
beauty who attem pied it in March would
be apt to get the cnilblains, red nose and
violent cold Of the order that SHOWS it
self in its demand for ten handkerchlefs
day. Hence, it would seem as If the
pamphlet of yesterday or the day before
is not always suited to general use.
Two are before me at present; one Is
paper bound, brown of color, has "f's Tor
s's,' and is altogether homelv looking.
The other is quite new; bound in spring
like tint In cloth, with disagreeable look
ing young woman for frontispiece. It
tells, Notwithstanding its modern binding,
much that is true, but it doesn't tell all
that the pamphlet of the olden days sets
forth as necessary to the increase OF
beauty. The old-timer says that If a
woman wishes to be beautiful she should
have dainty food beautifully served, that
she should be unacouainted with grease or
vinegar, and that she should learn the
value of rich dish that is at the
same time not heavy dish. This
wisdom boiled down means that one
should live well and take care of
ones digestion. Then 1t goes on to say
that she who aims at beauty should sleep
lish, signifies that the mind should be free
from care. She is not advised to walk
much, which, to all intents and purposes,
is equivalent to saying that something
masculine should love her we'll enough to
earn for her fine coach and pair, In
which to take her walks abroad. For she
is to have fresh air without exertion. To
keep her hair beautiful-now don't raise
your hands up in horror-she must braid
IL smoothly before going to BED and over
it she must put nightcap. GU may rot
fancy this, but it is we'll known that most
of the women of to-day who have beautiful
hair wore nightcaps made of fine null
Wnen tQey were Tiny Cnlluren.
Let US see what the book OF to-day says.
Not very much in the way of helping the
plain woman to become beautiful
woman. A good bit is said about the sort
of clothes that should be worn, and this is
sensible: "No properly understood hat or
bonnet can afford to be anything but SIM
pie and singe-mlnded in the impression it
produces. Over-abundance is the abomin-
alton of desolation and confusion of ideas
ho of
blameless bonnet. For, consider: The OBJ
ject OF its existence is to surmount, to
crown and frame human countenance.
And if that face be beautiful already,
what possible collection of beads, straw,
fur, moss, plovers eggs, pink roses and
plumage is likely to draw closer attention
to the lovely and delicate lines beneath?
And if the face be irregular in shape,
faded or muddy in color, unfortunate in
length or size or breadth. what concatena-
ton of the animal mineral and vegetable
kingdom is calculated to lead away the
critical eye to some happier point in the
wearers anatomy?" If this only teach
one woman how to buy the right sort of
hat! But no, until the end of the world
a cartwheel hat such as Nell Gwvnne wore,
laden down with plumes, heavy with flow
ers and tricked out with ribbon bows,
while the large, stately matron will crown
herself with two rosettes OF lace connected
by band of pink velvet, in the center of
which is small forget-me. not In rhine
stones. AS if one could forget that bonnet
on that woman! The dotlet on the eye is
large beside it. If |. were learned / should
say, 80 TEN pore! o Mores!' but, as am
not, simply say, Goodness, gracious!"
and wonder when the right bonnet and
the right woman will meet, and what the
result will be.
To return to the book of to-day 1t
makes another truthful statement 1t
says: "English women are, as a race,
smitten with strange passion for tying
on things" That this is true nobody who
has ever seen the English woman abroad
can doubt. She buys piece of ribbon at
the bargain counter and manages to pin it
at her waist she possesses a BIT OF lace,
and it appears at her throat. Flowers and
ribbons and lace meander at their own
sweet Will over her bonnet and she is
never satisfied to leave her gown as it
was when 1t came from the hands of an
artist. She puts some tags of tinery on it
and thinks she has improved it. The
English idea OF dressing can be damned
with faint praise by reminding you of one
thing: 1t was the English milliner who
first put trimming on sailor hat The
hat that of all others should be either
E pluribus unum or in puris naturalibus,
WHICH is III F.! L liz SILL, SOIueWuaL COQuet-
fish straw hat which emanded nothing
but the straight band about the crown,
had flowers and buckles, lace frills and stiff
feathers tied on it by the English milliner
and lost it's individuality, and became a
hat without reason for existence, which
is, 1 can assure you, much worse than a
man without a country.
1t may also be added, on my own hook,
that in addition to her fancy for tying
things on herself, the English woman has
the greatest yearning for hanging things
on herself. She iingles with chatelaine,
she is doubtfully decorated with neck
lace sufficiently long to permit its locket
hear!-shaped, 20 rest upon her heaving
bosom, and then she wears bangle brace
let's, Chain bracelets, watch bracelets and
every other sort of bracelet that can be
got at reasonable price at what she
calls the shops Her brooch is sufficiently
large to announce it as thing of use,
even if it isn't one of beauty, and yet, and
yet, here's where this nice little house of
cards tum over, the English woman
looks the handsomest and dresses the best
for ball or for dinner of any woman in
the world.
OF lis own free will that book turned
over page as if to exploit this bit of
wisdom: 1.-THE wife does not exist in order
to contribute to mans happiness, yet she