Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-06-18


Speciai Correspondence of Gazetteand Journal
New York, June II. --Dressy evening
waiets are of gauze over silk. Plain
gauze may be taken as matter of
course, but beautiful varieties show
floral patterns stamped on the fabric
and equally attractive styles are en-
broidered in sprays. The greater num-
ber, however, are woven in narrow
silken stripes and these are usually
made with the stripes running across,
since thereby they are not lost in the
folds, as would be the case when
placed lengthwise. Greater breadth
is thus given also, which in view of
the many slender society girls, is an
advantage and the sleeves, which still
are chiefly on the balloon order, are
made to extend out advantageously.
Often these dressy waists are made
with entire simplicity, the fulness
reaching from neck to waist in un-
broken lines and the sleeves simple
puffs to the elbow, but again hand
some yokes of heavy lace are laid over
satin or lace shoulder pieces extend
over the sleeves.
In piazza hats there is frequently
little if any difference from those worn
in the city and this for the reason that
ornamentation and size in case of the
latter, can really go no farther. Even
with tailor made dresses that are
strictly severe, the hat may be most
ornate in profusion of flowers and
everywhere the city is rendered gay,
by the lavish displays of floral adorn-
gauze or tulle is equally pronounced
and in the midst of such garnitures,
two heavy and far projecting black
wings, are thought particularly sty-
lish. Long Bird of Paradise plumes
are also distinguished flush. Hats
made entirely of gauze in white pale
pink. blue or yellow, are distinctly for
the country. Tho trimming is in bows,
plaitings or twistings of the same and
the latter may rise high and narrow in
stimulation of high millinery adorn-
ments seen elsewhere. Long loops of
gauze bound by narrow black velvet,
are an entirely new feature in MILL.
merry and sometimes inch wide satin
ribbon having velvet border, is used,
| the velvet portion being employed for
| the binding; and the remainder show
ing as an additional finish. This ia
seen both on country or city hats.
For travelling the choice lies chiefly
between mohair or mixed wool. Mo-
hair is best for stout women, who
should avoid mixed woods, yet the
latter do not readily show soil and do
net crush. But mohair is cool and
sheds dust. Durability is also an i'm
portant consideration in travelling; a
| first-class material becomes cheap, be-
cause it wears we'll and as neatness is
above all imperative, one should avoid
the risk of fraying around the bottom
by selecting high grade binding. In
choosing therefore, ladies should be
careful to note that S. HI. and nj. ia
on the label. Every effort is made
by some dealers to pass off inferior
goods and buyers must be on the alert
against imposition.
The usual style for making is skirt
and Jacket over shirt waist, The
/ jacket is made to close upon occasion
or may be left open when less warmth
is desired and this is certainly an OK.
celent method when one is not in
touch with other garments than those
worn. But extraordinary provision Is
now made for wants in travelling,
The literary individual can write about
as easily on a car as in a library;
others with young children find
baskets and satchels made especially
for them and fashionable women may
make as careful toilet as when in
their boudoirs. Finally, when bedewed
by an atomizer with Murray and Ian
mans Florida water, the most refresh
ing of all perfumes, and one that
should never be missing in any
Travellers outfit. my lady emerges
fresh and dainty amidst dusty sur
roundings.
A leading idea in dressmaking is
that of having the corsage of some
snowy material that contrasts effec-
lively with sleeves and skirt. Some
times heavy white lace is laid over the
bodice and the remainder plain or.
again, material of fancy pattern
fulfils like purpose, but the remain
der Of the gown must invariably be of
plain goods. Rich contrasts IN dress
are also afforded by collars and belts of
| pain velvet or velutina on gowns of
figured material. The last named espe-
cially. has peculiar advantages since by
reason of close, soft pile, it is much
handsomer than low grade velvet and
also because of its great durability. 1t
outwears velvet by far and when
finally worn, can bo more readily re-
newed because comparatively SO
moderate in price. Ribbon collars
and belts in Dresden or Persian pat
terms, are lovely contrast on dresses
of plain material.
Graduating gowns are made OF Or
candle, lawn, Swiss muslin, fine
dimity, taffeta silk or gauze showing
satin stripes. Styles in making follow
those of the same class of goods worn
on other occasions, but simplicity is
always best for the youthful. Lace
trimmed ruflies or ribbons come not
amiss because both are girlish in char
acter. Bridal dresses are perfectly made
in rich ivory satin, though hrooade is
used rather exceptionally and for trim
ming, gauze or fine lace are most usual.
the first named being most suitable to
youthful brides. Orange blossoms and
lilies of tho valley combined, are very
fashionable, but orange blossoms only