The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-05-24

men would remember that they cannot so
attire themselves when intending to call
on mere acquaintance.
In the East it is considered perfectly cor
rect for q man to appear on the street in a
summer coat without top coat during
summer evenings.
In large cities men seldom call in the
evening. as they find their evenings fully
taken up with dinners. dances. etc. AS q
result their calling is done after O'Clock
and on sunday afternoons.
No man can consider himself strictly
good form who does not dine in evening
dress. The Tuxedo and q black silk tie is
usually worn at home.
No one should ever be seen in a cutaway
coat on any formal occasion. The latest
sack coats are moderately short and much
like those worn last year in dimensions.
Frock coats are worn at all affairs of a
formal nature during the daytime. The
skirts of the frock reach the knee; the
waist must be very pronounced; as re-
suit it has now long-skirted appearance.
Double breasted fancy waistcoats are
worn with frock coats, and are made of
brown Holland linen, of mohair and of
checked materials. Black ones covered
with embroidered dots are no longer fash
breasted waistcoats are preferred.
Club ties and Ascots are much seen.
Green, red or dark blue, with white fig
ures, are the designs of the latest club ties,
and these must be tied by the wearer.
Ascots are considered smart made of pique
or white China silk.
Vogue, in a condensed form, gives sew
eral points concerning mems clothing for
the afternoon that some would do we'll to
remember
I'm the afternoon during the summer
two styles of dress are permissible. The
first is simply survival from the morn
ing. A man can wear ditto suit with
the new cutaway coat during the day, pro-
vlded he does not visit. He may even pay
informal calls in such rig. 1t Will be re-
mem bered that the cutaway in years gone
by was considered almost as much full
afternoon dress as the frock coat, and men
In top hats and black cutaways could be
seen at all the clubs. This is no longer
fashionable and is in fact bad form. Morn
ing or afternoon suits in gray worsteds,
diminished cheviots and vicunas In dark
brown or gray are permissible. Black cut
away coats in vlcunas, but not in diago-
nails, are also smart and should be worn
with shepherds plaid or striped fancy
trousers Garden parties driving and in
formal receptions, however, require the
frock coat. A top hat is de rigueur
with frock coat. The custom of
wearing straws with them is affected at
Newport, but is nevertheless not good
form. The coat has a creased collar
notched. Coat is worn long to just cover
the kneecap. Single breasted waistcoats,
I with notched collars and tifteen-inch open
ing, are worn with this. The trousers
tend toward the pegtop shape, falling
closely around the boot, bullying like a
pyramid as they ascend the hip The
material, stripes in grays and browns,
with wider stripe than last year"
At the Manhattan Club in New York
club sandwiches a la Straine, which is
pronounced to be excellent, and accord
ing to Vanity this delicacy is the usual
ciuo sandwich. but in addition to the
sliced chicken and lettuce leaf it has a
layer OF thin broiled bacon and sweet
Virginia pickles, likewise a taste of sar-
dimes. the delicate piscatorial morceau1 be-
ing dipped in powdered cracker and fr led
In Its own gravy. &C.