The herald., 1896-01-09

/ ries off the heroine of an Autonym. or a
Pseudonym, or a Zeitgeist Novel, or in
deed Of any modern novel in whatever
shape it may be brought out. Even on the
stage the heroines of modern plays do not
die by inches, as they were in the habit
of doing in pieces written for the last gen
Grafton. They have now a shorter shrift
and a more effective exit.
We have not arrived at the point of per-
fecton aimed at by the leaders of fashion
in the French Court before the Revolution
Of whom 1t has been written by a con-
temporary (Aurore de Saxe) that the art of
living and dying was thoroughly under
stood by them. She goes on to say: "No
one owned to disabling infirmities L
you had the gout you walked all the same
and made no grimaces. You dissembled
your sufferings from good breeding. When
half dead man would still be carried out
hunting and would have thought it better
to die at ball or a play than in his bed
with tapers at the head. and black priests
about him."
But If we are not so philosophical as those
lighthearted Gauls, we have certainly
| ceased to find anything particularly at
tractive In bad health! we pity those who
are afflicted. but we do not initiate them.
~ ~ x
The girl who can neither afford a sealskin
coat nor a chinchilla cape because of their
indeed with one of the lovely velvet coats,
of which there are such variety. A very
girlish jacket Of black velvet is cut in the
Norfolk style, and falls below the waist
to the dept hof several inches.
1t fits the graceful form easily without
being at all snug, and has broad box pleate
down both back and front.
The front of the coat is cut away to dis
play smoothly fitted vest of heavy white
satin, fastened under the left side with in
visible hooks and eyes.
A broad sailor collar Of white satin,
overlad with costly point de Venise lace
finishes the shoulders prettily. belt of
stiffened velvet encircles the waist, draw
ing the slight fullness in gracefully to the
form.
The cost OF a velvet coat is more than
one would imagine at first thought, until
one goes on hunting expedition through
the shops in search OF one, and finds the
prices ranging from $50 to SIS for the
cheapest.
Some very fetching cloth coats are being
put up for sale In a few of the most ex-
elusive shops; mostly of light, pale tan, in
heavy melton, with trimming of Russian
sable, silver fox or beaver.
They are In the REFER form, and extreme
ly short, with cute little ripples at the back
made go stiff that fattenng is impossible.
There is broad collar of the sable, and
narrow facing OF the same all down the
front, giving 1t the effect of being fur lined.
A coat OF this sort cannot be had for less
than $4O, but they are we'll worth the price,
because they do look so very easy, and so
very becoming.
Little girls were not valued very highly
IN the time Of Louis XIV. And as we are
going back to that age in our dresses. it
may not be unnteresting to freshen our
oil
OF woman Of fashion of that day Not
much Joy over her coming into the world,
to begin with All the mothers hopes
are concentrated on a son, who shall
Keep up the family name and inherit the
estates. daughter Is sent away to the
unuer the care OF a governess, she comes
nome to live, but in separate rooms, in
quite different part of the house from her
mother. whom she sees only once day in
ceremonious visit, says a writer in "Har-
pers Bazar." courtesy kiss from her
motner's lips on her forehead, and often a
reprimand, are all that she knows of a
mothers love in her childhood The old
pictures and engravings of the period repre-
sent the little girls as quaint bits of hui
man1ty in long gowns, loaded with ribbons,
ornaments, bows and bouquets Their
toilette Is the miniature of the luxury and
superb dress Of their mothers" wrote Nine.
the morning that little neglge called the
Savoyard habit-that pretty straight gar
ment in brown taffetas, with short skirt
OIL the same stuff, trimmed with two or three
rows OF ribbon couleur de rose sewed on
nat, and that simple but pretty headdress
consisting of a gauze fchu knotted under
the chin-charmng toilette in which child
hood is at its ease. where its grace has so
much liberty. Most frequently, so soon as
the little girl can walk alone, she has a
body, robe OF state, she is given a dane
ing master, and engravings have handed
down to us the attitude of this little per-
sonags with her arms held stiffiy rounded
out, the tips Of her fingers catching her
paniered gown with the serious air Of a
great lady. while her master repeats:
Keep time! Hold yourself straight! Arms
limp, head erect! Head a little sitter,
mademoisele. More assurance in your ex-
preston And the child is not yet five
years old!'
If the little girl is sent to play in the
Tuileries, she is told not to jump, to walk
with an air grave, as If her attire her
paniers, didn't do away with the necessity
for any such caution; IL they take her to
children's ball. they first place on her
head an enormous cushion called toaue
and on the top of this, held up by an i'm
mense scaffoldage made of pins and false
hair, a moLstrous hedgehog crowned with
heavy hat; they dress her in a new body;
heavy panier stuffed with hair and dis
tended with irons on top Of this habit
covered with garlands, and then they con-
duct her to the ball, saying: "Take care
not to rub off your rouge, not to spoil your
colffure, or muss up your habit, and amuse
yourself!"