davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-02-23

full puff. elbow length, with a frill Of lace
falling below the narrow band Of insertion
which confines the gathers, and the one
which is more elaborate than all the others
has first very short pufed sleeve with a
lace frill. and over this a gathered flowing
sleeve. falling Just below the elbow and
trimmed with rows Of lace insertion set in
between bands Of the nansook, and fin
lshed with the lace edge.
One pretty style OF gown with this sort
of sleeve is called the Queen Bess night
gown. 1t is cut square at the neck
trimmed around with lace insertion and
edge, and five rows of insertion about
nine inches long extend down the front
from the neck IN the gathers of lawn. Little
bretelles OF insertion lawn and edgng. cut
in four points on the edge are arranged
over the shoulders. The drawers which
match this are very wide, with a full, deep
ruffie of lawn and lace cut in points on
the edge and everywhere the seams and
insert ons are finished with the tiny en-
brodered beading which is used In ali fine
underwear. A new imitation Valenciennes
which is heavier than the old and much
prettier. is the lace in use Just at present
and it comes in effective patterns of fruit
and flowers.
Dimties, in pale tints Of blue, pink and
lavender, are to be fashionable material for
summer undergarments and these will be
trimmed with rufles Of the same, edged with
The herald., 1896-02-23

home a dressing table like one made for the
Countess de Castellane. 1t is of pale salmon
pink silk, draped with white bridal veil
tulle. The back where the mirror goes is
Of the silk in soft folds. The top drapery
falls gracefully, and the lower part easily
without fullness The tulle is wrought by
hand in the most exquisite arrangement Of
applique work that have ever seen. White
satin ribbon in narrow width, a white satin
cord in finest size and some white sewing
silk, are the only materials. The cord forms
the vines, the ribbon in folded pointed
bits makes the leaves. and the blossoms
are reproduced by small puckered "buttons"
of the ribbon set in circles with a small
center of silk crochetting. | wish l could
give you an idea of the exquisite beauty of
this dressing table, which costs as much as
many of the most expensive and much more
snowy things for the amount of work is
simply enormous. and all hand labor The
ornamentation is in trailing vines running
thicky all about the bottom, and tapering
off slenderly toward the top.
A beautiful bed screen being made for
this same American queen is Of polished
rosewood, with handsome carvings so far
as the frame goes. The screen itself is
one of the magnificent tapestry coored loom
products draped on instead of being smooth
ly mounted. The material is caught at the
top of each of the carved posts, and seem
ingly held there by a. cord with tassels. and
thence falls in graceful folds, shawl fashion.
One piece drapes the whole three divisions
of the frame. A set of furniture that has
already been shipped to New York for this
royal purchaser is of light and dark wood
in wonderful mosaic work, the general
effect being dark rather than light. The
quaintest feature of the set were the bed
steads, two in number. the head and foot
board of each one being of equal height,
that OF the usual brass footpiece.
The outlook is chaotic. Everything is
being worn, and apparently everything is to
be worn. Satin cloths are coming to the
fore, and coats to match their elegant plain
The herald., 1896-02-23
ST. MONANS, FIFE.

There it rests with its back to the brae,
The jumbled. zig-zag, gray old town;
Roofs red and brown-roofs purple and gray.
Blue-dim through reek from the chimneys
Roofs slanting, triform. juttng square.
With skylights yawning wide for air
And Sables-gables everywhere!
Low in the lap of tho land it lies,
On the knees OF the shore serene and gray;
The earth's green arms about it thrown.
Its feet on the rocks where the sea-mew flies,
And ever with mournful monotone,
l1bbng and flowing the sea tides sway
Ebbing and flowing forever and aye.
Dark on the sunsets ruddy gold,
The old church tower on the western height
The sturdy church. six centuries old,
On the edge Of the wave, with the town in
Where pray the living where find repose
The generations whom no man knows.
Boats in the harbor-nets on the brae,
Sunbrowned fishers upon the pier:
Women light ankled, deft handed, gay,
Ready to answer with joke or jeer;
Children who make the old village ring
With the games they play, the songs they sing.
Oh. here Life steps to heartsome strain;
Each for the love of them works for his own
And not for any mans single gain.
For masters profit to sweat and groan;
And blithely the sails with stout ''yo-ho'
To the masthead rise as they onward go.
Come luck come lack one deal to each;
Nor fear nor favor the fisher knows,
AS he sails away from the happy beach,
When the fish are rife and fair wind blows;
And what though a grave in the sea his lot?
Holds it one hollow where God is not?
All! still do l dream of that gray old Shore
Its murmur of waves. its shelterng calm;
The hearty speech and the open door,
And the welcome word that fell like balm
Till over my soul in nood-tide free,
NV long-lost faith flowed back to me;
Yea, the heart of my youth ! found in thee,
oh, gray ST. Monans. beside the sea.
Chambers Journal
The herald., 1896-02-23
rE.LEGi; WOMEN.
rs. higher EducatiOn Does Not
60 wake Them ambitious.

II is a somewhat remarkable TACT tnat
ont Of the upward of 4,0O0 women OF TINS
conntrv who arc physicians, not more tnan
o0S have a college training, according 10
President Thwing of the Western reserve
univensity. OF the 1926 women preachers
and 90S women lawyers in the country put
faw are college bred. Even more surprising
Il the fact that the colleges have contrlp-
ntea very few of the literary women OF inc
cnuntrv. Most of the womens collese
grad,lates become teachers or ornanen.
homes. Many of the preachers, beins soou
takers. do not undertake the reeuiaVior
three years course in theology, put 20
right ahead and discourse from the pulpi's'
learnedly or otherwise. or, N
Women do not, on the whole, seem 10
care to pursue a liberal college cours1
where they have definite professlola,
nurnose in view. They become uoctoIs
through practice as nurses ana stuas ,,ri, VIII
nhysieians. They become preachers lnIousn
feeling what they count as lnsplfa1lon,
and LAWYERS through office service 1, unuur
nrominent jurists. Perhaps existing cohui-
lions will change, but at present IL Is d
fact that outside of the teaching profession
the wonen's colleges furnish a small pro-
nnrtion os those who are gifted and sue
resefnl in the professions.
The herald., 1896-02-23
. Novtl(-y-

ness have plated basques at the back and
sides and are cut off across the front below
the waist to show the waistcoat. Persian
and Indian coloring obtain in everything
and everywhere, and yet they are so un-
becoming to all women of the blowzy type
and so generally initiated in low priced
goods, that there is an inclination on the
part of the exclusive houses, as always, to
maintain strict regard for the materials
that are not so easily initiated.
Almost nothing that you can do that is
striking may now be worn and labeled
Paris. You may even have a blood red hat
and trim it with an immense bow of white
silk used full width, with the selvage show
ing. and nobody will say you nay or dis
pute that it came from Virot or any other
fashionably patronized place, so long as
you carry it off with the air of having re-
ceved it straight from the gods, and of
being fully aware of the distinction that
they have conferred upon you.
The bargain counters are beseged by
mobs of fair shoppers at this unsettled sea-
son of the year, but after all it is only the
foolish virgins" who buy; for these odds
and ends of finery that are laid out as
temptingly as bats, marked in prices re-
markably low, have either seen their best
days on the store shelves or else their
style is quite passe.
The shop dealer realizes procrastinaton
will never do, and takes time by the FORE
lock and offers really fine goods at a low
figure to catch the unwary. But these bar
gains are not the good investment always
that they should be, If the goods are out of
fashion or about to become so, they ore
not cheap at any price, for they are utterly
useless.
Women find the array Of dress trimmings
the most alluring of all and very difficult
fn or nrOo op1pn mt vol
collarettes. etc., styles which have gone
! out Of date for the ultra-fashionable world,
are offered at half-price, anu find q ready
sale. though often enough they are never
, used; that is, those that are noticea5ly
odd. Simple jet bands or borders can be
used with good effect, even when the shops
are not setting them forth as the very
| latest thing out.
Among the laces are often found rare
bargains because even though the styles Of
lace change, really good, genuine lace is
always in fashion. Never has lace formed
so large or so conspicuous a part of dress
decoration as now. The planest Of gowns
are transformed into poems by its aid. 1t
is used on every item of woman's apparel.
Stockings are not exempt. because there
are stockings shown, at fabulous prices,
with tiny medallions of real lace set in at
the ankles. And as for shoes, half the
ball room slippers are made lovely by full
choux of lace or lace edged tulle on the
toes.
An exquisite opera wrap of black satin,
covered thickly with cut jet, has broad
revers across the front, covered with rich
brown tinted lace, a very rare sort and a
family heirloom
The only way in which white lace is not
universally worn is in ruches about the
throat, but it is predicted by spring proph-
cts that 1t will soon become the fad to set
the face off by a neat looking rim of lace
in the neck Of the gown.
The herald., 1896-02-23

becoming the woman. But modern taste
DEGREES differently. ''If you want to look
young and natural rather than faded and
artificial" said a woman the other day
stop crimpng your hair. l know of no
surer way of bringing about the effect, ut
least. Just call to mind the-well, not the
elderly, but the no longer youthful women
that you know, and think how ugly, in
mass of frzZes over their faces, and how
soft, natural and becoming straight hair
is to any woman at any age or state Of
health. Not necessarily tightly drawn
streaked-back hair; it may be loose and
puffy, if you choose, and always, of course,
arranged with an eye to artistic and indi-
vidual effect, but uncrimped, uncurled and
unfrzzed."
The herald., 1896-02-23
THE FRIAR OF ORDERS GRAY.

] am friar OF orders gray:
As down the valley take my way.
] null not blackberry, haw, or hip,
Good store of venison does NIL my scrip;
NV long bead-roll | merrily chaunt,
Where'er | walk no money / want;
And why I'm so plump the reason I'll tell
Who leads a good life is sure to live we'll
What baron or squire
Or knight of the shire
Lives half so we'll as holy friar!
After supper of heaven dream.
But that is fat pullet and clouted cream.
Myself, by denial. / mortify
With dainty bit of a warden pie;
Tn clothed in sackcloth for my sin;
With old sack wine I'm lined within:
A chirping cup is my matin song,
And the vesper bell is my bowls ding dong
What baron squire
Or knight of the shire
Lives half SO well as a holy friar!
John O'Keefe.
The herald., 1896-02-23
A VERY Knowing Criminal.

A prisoner escaped on the way to his trial
at Berlin and was not again apprehended.
on the afternoon of his escape a little girl
rang the bell of the Moabit Prison and handed
10 the janitor opening the door q parcel, with
the request to hand it TO the warden of the
prison. Upon opening the parcel it was found
that the escaped prisoner mad therein returned
his prison garb. and letter stating that he
returned the clothes to prevent prosecution
for embezzling clothing belonging to the au-
thorities. 1t is fact that the escaped pris-
oner could have been prosecuted on the ground
of taking along clothes belonging to public
institution.
The herald., 1896-02-23
ricc, Sensible Mntrimony.

4 useful innovation has been introduced b.
the Mayor of tho city of Brussels Each
couple who are married at the City Hall re-
ceive small book bound in leather. contain
ing the marriage certificate on the first two
pages. There are further. extract of the
rights and duties of married people. instru,- =
tions for the hygienic bringing up of chill
dren, and a number of blank pages for en-
tries OF important dates. births. deaths and
other anniversaries. Poor people receive this
book free of charge.
The herald., 1896-02-23
PERSONAL MENTION,

Mrs Sarah F. Dick. cashier OF the First
National Bank of Huntington, Ind. is one OF
the most successful financiers in that State
Mrs. Chiffon, wife of the Texas Senator. is
typical well-bred Southern woman of very
domestic tastes.
Mr. Albert Brassey. NJ. p. son OF Lord
tennis with his son recently losing the sight
of one eye, and, it is feared, perhaps of both.
Anthony Hope, author of "The Prisoner o :,
Zenda," is 81 years of age. and is described a
quiet man of gentle manners, with a soft
voice, which DROPS in a haf-apologetic way
at the end Of each sentence. lie bred
for the bar. but forsook the law for literature
The herald., 1896-02-23
DOn-DOn Valentines.

The bon-bon boxes of this season are the
most charming things imaginable. They have
departed from the old conventional designs
and one may send to ones sweetheart nova
days the daintiest confectionery in baskets
fairly riotous with summer flowers 30 like
the real thing that one can scarcely believe
them artificial. Lovers of more ingenious de-
vices may send their almonds and nougat and
chocolate creams IN grand pianos or in the
heart Of q melon, according to their taste.
The herald., 1896-02-23

and artificial flowers on the skirt as we'll
bodice. A dinner gown trimmed in this way
appeared at the opera few nights ago and Is
Of black velvet, with scarf decoration o.
scarlet tulle shadowed with black figure
This drapes the neck of the bodice and crusscs
the bust diagonally 10 the waist great seat
let chrysanthemum catching it in front ana AT
each shoulder. The same flowers hold doan
the sash pieces on the skirt and show at the
outside of the short puff sleeves.
The herald., 1896-02-23
VERY DAINTY LINGERIE
SPRING STYLES SHOW AN ABSENCE
OF MANNISHNESS.
SOFT, FLUFFY, WOMANLY.
The Reaction Has Set in and the
KnickerbOcl<er Maid Has Failed
in Her Reform Efforts.


The new woman. with her knickerbockers
and varied assortment of trousers, and
her frantic efforts to reform the entire
department of underclothes. has brought
about reaction which is decidedly opposed
to masculine methods of construction, and
the spring novelties in lingerie are as
elaborate and dainty as the most womanly
woman could desire.
The most novel feature of the new night
gowns is the sleeve. which is invariably a
The herald., 1896-02-23
Eat Pines Like Don-Bons.

Our North American Indians eat the seeds
them and making them into Cruel. Their
fondness for the seeds of some pines is we'll
known. these "pinions' being to them what
sugar plums are to us.
The herald., 1896-02-23

narrow lace or with pretty, dainty edges
of embroidery. Petticoats of dimity are
especially nice to wear under thin summer
gowns and they can be made very ef
fective with the inexpensive edges on the
rufiles.
Among the new shapes in night gowns is
a circular cut at the neck, trimmed around
The herald., 1896-02-23
THE uBIQUIToUs WRINKLE.

Eriyzes bring 1t Into startling From
inence and should BE Avoided
Tho majority of women make great
mistake in crimping their hair. For somo
reason or other an oVerhdnging CLOUD OF
curIs or frizzies has way of bringing out
ali The little lines and defects that nature
or time have stamped in a woman's face.
This is quite contrary to the old-time no
tion. Then it was taken for granted that
;he tighter the curls the prettier and more
The herald., 1896-02-23
A Wise Cynic.

Inquirer-I seq it stated some philosopher
says that the way TO cure yourself of a love
affair is to run away, DO you believe it,"
Cyncus-Ceytainl you run away with
tha girl
The herald., 1896-02-23
Seeds as Food.

Seeds of many kinds have been found in
the ruins of the homes of the ancient cliff
dwecrs of Utah. who evidently used them
for food. The ciff-dwellers ate the seed OF
tho ordinary pig weed Indians to this DAY
consume the seeds of many grasses, which
are ground into -four.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Old Lady Ito niece who is portionless)-
How is it, my dear, that you have never kin
died flame in the bosom of a man?
Niece-The reason. dear aunt. is that am
not a good match.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Fashionable people of to-day do not seem to
desire to be accounted well bred in public
1t has been well said, ordinary civility among
them Is one of the lost arts and graces.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Those who are close observers declare great
many society women of to-day wear wigs
which are SO naturally and beautifully made
that ones own hair is absolutely forgotten.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Less elaborate boxes containing a larger
quantity of cake would make people happier
at many modern wedding reception. There
is no sentiment in big pasteboard box.
The herald., 1896-02-23

The only minor peer who will come of age
during 1886 is the Marquis of Waterford, who
will reach his majority on April 26.
The herald., 1896-02-23

White and black ostrich feather boas are in
high favor among living pictures in boxes at
the opera. 1t is tradition that they at leAs!
keep the throat, neck and shoulders warm.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Country house holiday parties were never
numerous as this year. but hostesses who have
10 employ professional entertainers have not
sumcleut conQdepce IN themselves.
The herald., 1896-02-23

Blue and white ware is positively china
craze this winter.
The herald., 1896-02-23

The new bordered piques are chic and mex
pensiye.
The herald., 1896-02-23
It Is a Sin to he Envious.

Velvet and satin gowns for those who ara
fond of much trimming have sometimes tulle
The herald., 1896-02-23

There 1t rests with its back to the brae,
The jumbled. zig-zag, gray old town;
Roofs red and brown-roofs purple and gray,
Blue-dim through reek from the chimneys
The record-union., 1896-02-18

streets. The mothers and other relatives
of the girls who were at work in the fac
tory soon learned of the disastrous fire,
and hurried to the scene. They gath
cred around the burning building, dis
tracted with grief and fear, making
anxious inquiries for the loved ones.
Some of them attempted to rush UP into
the burning building, and the officers
and bystanders found it difficult to re-
strain them. A number of women were
soon on their knees, on the fce-eovered
pavements, crying to heaven for assist
ance.
The spread OF the flames was remark
able There was a strong wind blowing
at the time, and in less time than it takes
to tell it. the building was afire from top
tc bottom. Twenty streams of water
seemed to have no effect, and there was
every indication early in the evening
that the entire block would be con-
sumed. The fire extended into the big
structure north. gutted it and the West
ern Union building. 1t was not until
about four hours after the fire started
that it was under control
The loss viii probably reach $500 000
The three women who were killed by
Jumping AiOiiI tie WllQOWSr were dif1OSl
unrecogniZable when picked up, so fear
fully were their heads crushed. Many
of the injured were those caught under
falling walls.
While the fire was raging in the Ken
more restaurant, Thomas Rosso, an
Italian peanut vender who kept a stand
in front of the place and who was inside,
had narrow escape from death One
of the huge timbers fell on him, and he
was imprisoned in the ruins with a fire
on every side. Officers Burke, Watson,
Guy and James Quinn, a boy, went to
his aid. More of the south wall fell in,
and the policemen were each bruised
and cut. Officer Burke was so badly
injured that he was taken to his home.
The other returned to duty. Young
Quinn was struck on the chest by fall
ing tfmbers and quite seriously hurt
The Italian was rescued later and taken
to the hospital The firemen who were
injured were caught under falling walls.
superintendent of Police Willard
made careful investigation this even
ing, and reported shortly after midnight
that it is almost certain that twelve
girls were burned up in the building.
He believes that there were many more
who never escaped alive, and the names
OF any more who perished cannot be
learned until tomorrow
The record-union., 1896-02-18

man Morrison, Commissioners
mans and CIamanfs x.raro procapt

man Morrison, Commissioners Yeo-
mans and Clements were present.
There are five cases of alleged viola
tion of the law for investigation at this
hearing, three of them being against
the Chicago, Milwaukee and st. Paul
road. The complainants allege dis
elimination in the company's system of
making rates on grain and flour, mill
ing in transit, from Wisconsin, South
ern Minnesota and Northern Iowa
points, in favor of the big millers of
Minneapolis and Milwaukee,
There is a complaint against the
Santa Fe road, the charge being the
making of a rate to Colorado points
less than the rate to intermediate
points. This charge does not now hold
good, as it was involved in a rate war
among Colorado roads which had re-
Gently been settled, and it is doubtful if
the commission will hear the case even
il it is pressed.
The case on hearing to-day was that
of the Listam Mills Company of La
Crosse, Wis, against the ST Paul road.
The complaint is based on an arbitrary
rate of 21a cents per 100 pounds on
wheat from Minneapolis to Chicago for
milling in transit at La Crosse.
The railroad was represented by
George r. Peck, general counsel, and
Burton Hanson, general solicitor. The
complainant's counsel was ex-Congress-
man Lind of Minnesota. The witnesses
during the day were F. p. Hickson,
President of the milling company, and
A. c. Bird, General Traffic Manager of
the defendant road.
The railroads defense is that the 212
cents charge is imposed to preserve an
equality in rates between all points.