The herald., 1896-02-10
Fo r Wo N AN KIN D..

J3ey0nd all manner OF doubt, the pretty,
round. rather short-waisted figures are the
fad at present. They are great sight pref
tier and more fascinating than the trim,
long-waisted figures once so much ad-
mired. and so the despair of every naturally
plump woman, who could not force her
pretty. round figure into the stiff, slim
style she so desired. This change has been
brought about by the wearing OF the
empire corset. with it's low bust and its
general quality for revealing all the pretty
curves of the form. A gown made to mt a
figure of these proportions has all the chic
and dash so beloved of the French women.
There is a pretty fad agog, that OF the
skirt Of some pale-tinted mixture or plain
melton, worn instead Of the everlasting
black, with smart bodices. SO trimmed and
elaborated as to seem unsimilar to the
terribly common light silk bodice. A cos
tune of this sort is suitable for theater
wear calling purposes and later on will be
worn for street use.
A most fetching one, the product OF a
Partisan couturiere, has skirt Of creamy
tan, velvet-smooth melton. SO clear and soft
and a snugly fitted blouse. or bodice more
properly speaking. OF inch-wide striped
cerse and white silk, with adjuncts OF white
kid edged with heavy gold cord.
The stripes Of the silk run bias across
the body. The double-breasted front fast
els WIFI TOW Ol tiHy JcWeieu
perfectly round and set thiekly with garnets.
The sleeves are fully pulled and set out
beautifully over the elbows. They are en-
tirelv untrimmed
An odd sailor collar slashed in deep
points is of white kid, all edged with
heavy gold cord. while belt of the same,
with deep points finished in the same way,
set down over the skirt A thick ruching
of white chiffon finishes this at the throat.
With this gown is worn PREDETERMINED
hat of black velvet, with a high square
crown, banded about with heavy patterned
lace laid over a band of cerise satin. Two
long black plumes are caught directly in
the center by huge rhinestone clasp.
"There are more ways to economize than
are known to the general public" said a
young Gotham matron the other day to a
friend, who was marveling at the way in
which she dressed on what was. to her,
rather meager amount of money
my gowns are almost always direct from
Worth or some noted European establish
ment, and l have lot Of them; and yet my
| yearly expenditure for dressing is less than
yours, and your gowns are all New York
| made" she continued, laughing gayly at her
! friends look Of discontinue.
How do l manage it? Why, go every
season to the sales at the Custom House,
and have seldom failed to secure splendid
| imported frock for just what the duty would
all, which sometimes amounts to several
hundreds of dollars. My seamstress makes
them fit me, and l appear at some function
or other in my bit of imported elegance
quite conscious of the ice l am cutting.
do you remember that superb frock
wore last winter, white satin covered with
cloth Of gold? Well bought that frock al
the Custom House sale, and from the out
side OF the box could not tell whether
was buying gown for my grandmother oil
one likely to suit me; but trusted to my
luck, as I always do, and that much ad
mired frock was the result
A remarkably swell frock of navy blue
crepon, the great heavy, wrinkled sort, i:
combined with navy blue and apple greer
| plaid velvet, laid on with beautifully rich
| braiding of gold. The skirt is cut in the
most approved manner in succession OF
big godets, Haunting all around the feet
with foot trimming Of the velvet tapering
from ten inches at the front to less than
three inches at the back. A heavy tracery
OF gold cord outlines the top.
The bodice is slightly pointed to set over
the stomach and hips. and is snugly fitted.
half vest of velvet peeps out from under a
draped front of the crepon. decorated with
an edging of mink fur. A broad stock of
plaid velvet is built up about the throat,
with several huge loops at the back.
With this gown is to be worn a jaunty
hat with a crownlees brim, made of mink
colored beaver turned up at one side, with
huge bow of apple green velvet and a
| rhinestone ornament.
Another swagger gown is made up of
coffee-colored boucle, white kid and sable
fur The wide skirt is perfectly plain, but
stiffened to a startling degree by It's lining
of coffee-colored silk. The jacket bodice is
in Norfolk fashion, having three box plaits
back and 'front.' and belted to the waist
by an inch belt of white kid.
There are immense revers Of sable, edged
with a full rufne of tan-tinted point de
collar of the same fur setting out over the
sleeves. A rather broad shield-shaped vest
of white kid is tucked in under the revers
and fastened to the jacket by rows of tiny
horn buttons. A tiny fiat turbap with a
crown of kid and mite Of brim Of fur
has at the side a tall cluster Of dewy look
ing purple violets.
The fad for having the body of the bodice
of a different material from the sleeves
and skirt is one fact obtaining probably be-
| cause such striking results can be accom-
plished. A tremendously fetching gown is
of reseda green cancels hair all covered
with long black silky hairs, giving il a
| regally rich appearance. The skirt is
| unanimously wide and perfectly plain.
The blouse is made up Of an eighth Of an
| inch checked silk in tints Of apple green
soft violet and pale yellow taffeta. 1t is
| set in smooth folds to mt the back perfectly
but allowed to blouse considerably at the
front over girdle or belt of beaten silver
from which hangs chatelaine of curious
! workmanship. There lie broad stock OF
y, pale yellow velvet, finished by full bow
of the broad velvet at the back. Buttons
! of beaten silver ornament the front Of the
! bodice, as we'll as the lower arm Of the big
sleeves.
A Partisan frock Of pale tan-tinted mo-
hair has blouse bodice of leaf green satin
overlaid with straps of exquisite graysh
| lace. The sleeves are of nohair, with bands
| Of lace all along the lower arm fastened
! with fiat buttons Of gold set with paste
emeralds. The frenzy for black skirts is
very apt, from all forebodings, to change
in the spring to quite the opposite. and
make the wearing of all sorts Of pale tinted
skirts the fad.
Fancy blouses, made from the gorgeous
new Dresden silks, in their enormous pat
terms, running all over the groundwork. are
especially favored, and are given the cachet
of elegance by accessories of fur lace and
sparkling buttons. Some of the new mo,l-
choirs are as novel as they are dainty, al
, together too much so for common use. One
variety shown is of the sheerest of creamy
taffeta. in a small oval, outlined with dou-
BILE frils Of creamy chiffon and tiny script
| initial letter worked in one corner Not
bit of color is seen on any Of them, very
decided improvement upon the bits Of fashy
colors so the rage while ago.
Even for mourning wear the mouchoir
border is perfectly white, the border OF
| black being quite passe.
Archibald Campbell nephew of Burns
'Highland Mary, ;" died recently at the resi-