Evening star., 1896-09-19

VIZ sii sn' ess" ssT psts:s 'as:s .~ss ssss
to await remodeling
next year. According to present indica-
tions, there will be plenty for the remod-
elers to do before the winter is over. All
sleeves are smaller. and in many cases
they can be fashioned quite easily by cut
ting down last years sleeves.
The new coats have moderate sleeves
not SO large as last year, but far from
small. They are tight from the wrist to a
point several inches above the elbow, and
from there they bulge out into a good-sized
pun.
There are no cuffs on this years coats
but some of them have a three-cornered
piece stitched down tight to the sleeves
and trimmed with fancy button.
Some of the buttons are very fanciful.
The outside rim has the appearance Of
having been showed over to one side, push
ing 1t completely OF one edge. These are
smoked pearl and are used on coats of
beaver and covert cloth.
A dark green and a mouse color are the
favorite colors In jackets.
Goats are very high in the neck this year,
but not with stand-up collar. The collars
are fiaring, but at the beginning they hook
together snug under the chin, and then
ctand out straight from the neck.
These are all jacket-length, coming about
eight inches below the hips. and there are
no indications of any longer wraps but
cold weather may bring them out.
About the Loose Coat.
The loose coat. which makes no pretense
Of fitting the figure, will be more of a ia
vorite this year than 1t was last. There
was one at the theater the other night, and
though an artist would doubtless consider
| II very ugly because 1t conceals the beauu-
full lines Of the figure, ii cannot be denied
III fQfnhinO a. hx-
stunning girl from the door Of the theater
to her carriage. The coat was made of
gray cloth, and hung loose from the neck
In three godets at the back, with a large
bow Of green satin ribbon, caught with a
buckle at the top.- There was a fiaring col
la: OF green satin, and the fronts hung
loose and straight. The sleeves had good
sized puns al the top, but hit tight below
the elbow. With this wrap was worn a hat
OF mouse-colored straw, trimmed with
black plumes.
! fact the necessary trimming of the season.
They are as Indispensable were flowers
| on the hats of May and June. And when
| one says feathers. that is only the begin
| ming of the story. Not a branch of the
winged family escapes the milliner this
year. The king of the barnyard contrib
uteS quills and cockades that may sit side
| by side with the plumage of the bird Of
paradise and one has to look very close to
recogniZ the particular species to which a
wing or plume belongs.
The most pronounced fashion In the style
of hat trimmings that has already taken
root, as it were is that of placing a clump
| of osprey feathers on each side to
droop over the ears This is a fashion
which was adopted on the late summer
| hats.
-s-- The Big Hat Again.
A ludicrous attempt was recently made
| by some young ladies who had come from
| the seashore to board at country farm
| house In the mountains to introduce the
| Narragansett Pier fashion of wearing hats
| on all occasions. One of them had hat Of
the above description, which she persisted
| in putting on to come to her meals. But
the osprey feathers kept continually get
ting into the chicken-gravy, until the pro-
pEistor.Sto took legislative measures and for
| bade the wearing Of large hats at the table:
:. It 10 such hats as these that the theater
goers will have to contend with this winter;
| and let no one imagine because the plumes
are seemingly transparent and pliable that
| they do not obstruct the vision of those be-
| hind. A conversation which was overheard
| at a recent matinee goes to show that even
| aigrettes are Objectionable in this respect.
| Il should think" said a pretty girl in a
| small blue bonnet, that that girl would
| have more consideration for other people
| than to wear such an immense bow on her
| hat to the theater"
Pardon met said friend who sat be-
hind. but think aigrettes are quite as
| bad"
| blue aigrettes in her tiny bonnet, and was
| silent.
| But notwithstanding the coming popu-
| larity Of the feather. there is nothing airy
| fairy, or unsubstantial, about the hat Of
| the season now opening Its general shape
| is round, and it sits solid on the head. ex-
| cept in the few cases where those very
| small high crowns are worn. 1t turns up
| in the back. and has a little more inclina-
ton to tilt up on the left side than the
right. 1t may be left plain under the brim
| or decorated with lace or teweled trimming
hot flowers or leaves. for everybody is
| tired of them.
Features of the Fall Hats.
The hat that turns up in the back has a
rosette or something on the middle Of the
brim in front Of the crown, and on each
side are clumps of cock feathers or osprey
feathers Their there is some kind OF
pleated trimming at the back made fan
like to hide the turned-up brim This Is
usually made Of silk bound with different
shade Of black velvet. for ribbons are not
SO much in favor as formerly.
1t is characteristic Of the fall hats to
combine two or three colors in some defin-
lite manner. as, for instance, to make q
band for the crown out of three shades OF
satin. such as black, white and green, o,
green, white and pale blue. Wings and
feathers are dyed In this way. In blacks
and whites. purples and yellows, and many
others.
Evening hats are substantial-looking af.
fairs that are not, however, calculated to
| obstruct the view, as some Of the picture
hats do. The most of them have velvet
crowns in a squarish shape, that suggests
but is not the Tam O'Shanter. For brim
they have a pleated ruche of velvet, with 6
little lace edge. The trimming is 1uff OF
lace and a clump Of osprey feathers thai
| droop over the brtm and down over tn,
back hair.
Collarettes Of silk or ribbon and lace ar,
| very fashionable for early autumn, to weal
until the November winds drive us unwill
fngly to furs and jacketed helplessness.
The Result Was the Same.