The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1896-01-16

IN January, 1895, "nen inc leoeis
attempted to overthrow the young
republic. Koko Head, an extinct VOL
cano, was passed and, beyond, Dia-
mond Head lay in plain view. We
were told that when we had passed
that we would be able to see the Bay
of Honolulu.
Diamond Head is also an extinct
volcano. 1t has crater or hollow
basin, and projects out to sea in way
that makes it valuable point to for
tify. Properly entrenched, Diamond
Head would be impregnable. This
mountain has historic interest. In
January, 1895, the rebels, having been
driven from the valley below, took a
position in this stronghold, which they
held until forced out by the soldiers of
the republic. From there they fled to
the mountains.
At last our vessel glided around Dia-
mond Head, and the Pearl of the Pa
cifc burst on our view,-Honolulu,
the capitol of the Hawaiin Islands.
What Havana is to the West Idies, and
New York is to the United Statesl
Honolulu is of the little republic ofthe
Pacific. At last this city of which l
had read so much but had never seen
save in my dreams, lay before me.
Smuggling at the foot of wondrously
picturesque hills, which rise abruptly
into continuous range OF dark
blue background, Tapped by the waves
of perpetual summer sea, the city, as
seen from the outside the reef, is very
beautiful in its setting. Diamond
Head or Leahi seems like some mighty
sphinx or lion couchant, guarding in
grim silence the approach to an earth
ly paradise. The balmy air, the dark
outlying hills, the abundant vegetation,
the emerald green at the harbor bar,
the softness and depth Of the blue
skies, and the gorgeous sunshine bath
ing all the landscape, greeted us with
a tropical welcome. Palms waved be-
fore US, and the air was fragrant with
magnolia and stephanotis.
The long, low shore, extending from
Diamond Head to the city, lay on our
right. Tall cocoanuts and waving
palms, date trees and banana planta-
tons, with the far receding hills of
fadefess green, formed an enchanting
scene. The pilot boat, mere speck
at first, was coming toward US, and
growing larger each moment. In ad-
dition to the pilot, it brought DR..
Wood, Of the Board of Health. Since
the cholera in September last, the
Board of Health has been more than
usually careful about incoming ships.
Great caution is taken with vessels
from China and Japan especially. One
ship from Japan was detained forty
eight hours in quarantine before she
was permitted to land single passcn-
ger or any part of her cargo.
The United States man-ofwar Ben
nington lay in the harbor, at the time
the only warship at the islands. There
were number of other vessels, how
ever, which gave to the city quite the
appearance of seaport town. Native
canoes were darling all over the har-
Dor. These canoes are long slender
boats with small runner Ike keel at
tached to the side to balance them, the
two connected by strips of wood or
iron. Many Of the natives were anus
ing themselves with toy ships, which,
with sails set, were gliding over the
harbor, while their proud owners
watched them from their little boats.
The Australia is an old acquaint-
anCe in Honolulu, and her advent was
greeted with glad cheers and shouts.
Some of the little boats of the kanaka
boys ran along side of US, their owners
giving cheer after cheer. The simple
fellows often leaped from their canoes
to the ladder suspended over the yes
sells side and came on board.
At last we came alongside the dock,
and it seemed as if the whole town
had turned out to meet us; the dock
was literally lined with people; a sea
of faces, most of them of the dark.
skined kanaka, were upturned toward
US. Continuous shouts and yells came
from below, and when the gang plank
was thrown out, the people came rush
ing on board to greet relatives and
| friends.
Those who expected to 60 ashore a
once were doomed to disappointment
The tide of humanity rushed on board
| and we were driven back to our state
rooms. Then came long worry over
baggage. Three or four expressmer
were on board, taking up checks anc
the numbers of berths, and instructins
everybody to wait patiently until thu
uproar had subsidized, and then make
our way to the dock where the custom
| house officials would 60 through GU
luggage.
When the excitement which followed
our arrival had somewhat subsidized,
determined to try to make my way or
shore. With my arctic overcoat on my
arm l descended from the gang plank
wiping the perspiration from my face
and approached the overworked Gus
tom house officials. There were {
hundred or more people present, eacl
anxious to have his or her trunk, hal
bag, or valse inspected first. The of
fcers were busy opening every sort O
satchel and travelling convenience, ane