The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1896-04-14

| fore us IN which wOOlenS Will be neceS
sary, and as there are some new things
to say about the woolens, why, let uf
say them. There is new wool called
| fshwife flannel. 1t is shown in various
weaves, herringbone being one of them,
and very appropriately named. Some
have a sort of canvas or duck weave,
others have homespun twist and others
merge into tweed effect. The stuff is
light, but strong, and the colors are well
chosen. The diagonal weave has three
or four different colored threads in each
twist. There are tweed weaves with ha-
vana brown and light green, golden
brown and deep purple red and dust col
or and SO on. These are excellent for
travelling or for street and specially good
for children's garments. Another pretty
stuff, bound to become popular, is can
vas cloth. The warp and wool Of this
are exactly alike, and the material re-
sembles the old canvas on which little
girls century ago worked their sam
piers. Over the surface of this is thrown
plaid formed of two rows of knots or
"nigger heads" Of the same color. Ba-
varian homespun is another rough but
loose and light wooden stuff and is seen
in claret and very dark reddish browns
and mixtures. Claret is a new color this
season and a rich and becoming one
There is sort Of plushlike stuff called
ratine cloth; rater means to card. The
long pile is set thin on the body Of the
cloth like the cards used for fax.
Amazon cloth is shown in beige, ruby,
claret and all the rich browns and sober
10 h 1oJo
it is lighter than any other of those
smooth surfaced goods. Melton is also
provided in deep, rich coiors, though
never brilliant ones. These two last
mentioned stutfs are made as plainly as
possible and the waists trimmed with
brandenbourgs. All the skirts will have
taffeta or percaline Innings
Sleeves have swollen again to their
last autumn's dimensions Some of
them are extremely ungraceful, espe-
cially those with strapped seams and
fanoiful plating The sleeve with the
pulled upper and straight armpiece,
and the leg O. mutton, and the bishop
are far prettier, and fortunately the
majority of women think SO.
One Of the prettiest dresses I have
seen this season for full dress was of
pink peau de sole, the skirt in paquin
folds. By the way, the paquin skirt is
the most popular now, godet and pipe
organ and trumpet folds having been
found wanting in many ways. This
skirt had very graceful and elegant
pattern all around the bottom done in
black pearl beads, sewed directly on the
skirt. At the sides, starting from the
belt, there were other designs wrought
in the same pearl beads. There was a
fichu of black dotted lace, edged by two
rows of handsome white lace, set on
like bertha, with knot in front, and
a blouse effect, also made of the lace.
The waist was plain and tight and the
elbow sleeves pulled. There was mar
row crush belt of dark rush green vel
vet. I was told that the pattern was
stamped upon the skirt, and the beads
threaded upon fine wire. This was bent
into the required shapes and sewed
snugly down. The finished work was
very beautiful
In one house there was a rich purple
velour du nord waist for dinner or even
ing wear. The sleeves to the elbow were