Evening star., 1896-10-24

woman always looks first at a woman's
hat. The woman who looks will see this
year small and medium sizes in the decided
majority. although she may hear disquiet-
ing rumors of larger sizes and Shower
shapes impending. Three out of five have
the high, square piquant crowns which
above most faces look so charming.
The woman who looks sees the changes
rrng on felt and velvet, plumage ribbons.
chenille, beading, jewelry and bits of en-
broidery. She sees high straight crowns
bell crowns and fiat brims ana dipping and
waving brims. She sees-oh, so many hats
in poll parrot tints of russet and vivid
green, ana notes that green in darker.
soberer shades is certainly the favorite
pece de resistance of midautumn millinery.
The woman who looks has seen some hats
and bOnnetS which are really novel. A
Rembrandtesque model with an old gold
velvet crown and crumpled tobacco tint
brim, falling over the right ear and adorned
with six black ostrich feathers and steel
buckles. was the most ode and effective OF
these.
A toque in vivid red like an oriole, made
OF chenille trimmed with red rosettes with
steel buckle centerS, and further decked
with three tall tulip bows of red velvet,
varied as If by charred Goals showing
through the heart of a fire. by little black
satin rosettes with green hearts-never
mind thc botany-on the right side.
Some Effective Designs.
A black velvet hat was trimmed with two
twists of salmon-coIored silk about the
crown. passing through jet hoops with
rhinestone ornaments. And there were
black ostrich plumes. almost, of course,
to carry out the idea.
Charming enough was a black velvet hat
whose crown was topped with upright
slaves of black quilting and hooped in with
three strips of white silk, caught at the
bows on the left with steel ornaments. Two
white ostrich plumes WED in unequal con-
test with four black ones above 1t, and
cachepeigne of greenery, gallery roses re-
posed beneath the brim.
A gray felt hat bound with slk-two rib
bons encircling the crown and forming
rosettes on the side-one bronze, one spot
ted cream-was adorned with one white
plume and one black and a huge windmill
bow of the contrasting ribbons in front.
Simplest of all. and the only one I men,
tion in whose trimming a bird was en-
ployed, was hat of biege felt bound with
light brown chenille and trimmed with
broad chenille ribbon of the same shade
about the crown. A blackbird writhed in
pain down the left side. The milliners add
insult to his injury by calling him fancy
blackbird.''
I suppose that velvet is after all the IA
vorite material for hats of note. A purple
velvet hat with a wide brim turned slightly
up at the sides. and with a high bell ton
crown trimmed with three bias bands of
the velvet caught in front with small steel
buckles; draped as to its brim with white
duchess lace and marked al its back with
the 'ich dien" crest in black and white
tips, Is one of the "smartest" models
straight from the Paris ateliers.
An Oddly in Millinery.
Another oddity In millinery is shown,
which will be quite general. in a very small
bonnet made of velvet covered with net
work OF tinseled leaves.
But too long have I dwelt upon the ever
interesting topic. to a woman. of millinery
Let me hasten to add that the tiny mufr