The record-union., 1896-10-25

worn with cycling. golf, tennis and
other outdoor costumes, but 1t is now
preferred by great majority of women
to the abnormally long. stiff dress"
corset, which gave an unnatural look
to the figure, and which was formerly
considered Indispensable with all save
neglige or exercise costumes. These
short French corsets are beautifully
shaped, cut low at the top, and rather
short on the hips. They can be bought
of plain or corded coutil, net, satin or
sateen. 1t is considered very smart to
have brocaded corset and petticoat
to match, but all cannot afford these
elegances of the toilet, and palmer cor
sets are made with all the graceful
curves and numberless small valuable
improvements that the very high priced
models show
The new repped fabrics are softer and
richer looking than ever, but the chief
distinguishing feature is found in the
beautiful color-blending effected in the
weaving. In a handsome pattern one
of the cords is delicate Did rose. and
the other a soft silver gray, and the
changing ground that unItes these two
shades with pale blue Colors have be-
come SO delicate and artistic in tint
and shading that dyes once considered
wholly antagonistic are now beauti-
fully harmonized, and nearly every sort
Of color combination rendered possible.
Many of the yokes and chatelaine and
C1aaUaS 0o nh
lish gowns are laid in tucks that are
often an inch and a quarter wide.
Heavy fabrics for day wear even vel
vets. are tucked quite as often as deli
cate textiles for evening dress The
tucks run horizontally, no. perpendic-
ularly. and are laid before the yoke
and sleeves are either cut or lined.
Black costumes are Away, IN style
to certain degree, but they take a
prominent place this season. not how
ever, interfering at all with the elegant
costumes in their endless colorings, but
giving a fine rich contrast and back
ground to the more brilliant attire.
There is notable display this autumn
among the black wcolens, silk and WOOL
fancies the plain satin-faced cloths, or
those figured in small matelasse de-
signs, and also the expensive dress
textiles that closely copy the patterns
of faconne silks and satin brocadeS.
Among the new shades in Elohair,
English serge, and bouretto fabrics for
travelling costumes, touchwool and
nasturtium are the newest SHADES in
brown. Mahogany is another dye that
finds favor, and all browns with Ied-
cish tinge. Pigeon gray is liked on
mohairs, tweedS and French suitiugs
and a rich Russian blue among tailor
cloths, Venetian and ladies' cloths, and
wholly new double warp French
cashmere. This handsome dye re
places the light and dark heliotrOpes
| that were favored at this time last
year.
The rage for the early part of the
| winter season will be for cape collars
oddly shaped collarettes, 1ichus with
| long stole ends, and bolero Zouave, and
Eton Jackets made of furs innumerable
the jackets exactly like those SO ia
n'iliar for seasons past, made Of lace
| net, silk, velvet, paSSementerie, etc
TIE cape-collars serve not oily as
mi-season wraps, but later on, with
! those who regard their health with
care, they Will be worn above the longer
heavier wrap on the promenade or at
| teas, receptions and similar gatherii gs
| when the larger garments will be re-
moved and left in the hall or carriage
| The cape-collar is usually made Of one
| fur edged with another, or Is If rich
silk velvet, with deep round yokr Of
embroidered kid, or Of tre velvet itself
inlaid with elegant passementerie OF
lead arabesques en- applique The cape
covers the top of the corsaga extend
| ing beyond the small, fa!i sleeve cuffs
giving the desired effect Of brea1th to
| the shoulders.