New-York tribune., 1896-12-03
BEAUTIFUL PARIS GOWNS.
WHITE CLOTH ROBE DE CHAMBRE AN
EXQUISITE MAJvE SILK COSTUME AND
THE EvER-FAvORITE ACCORDION
PLEATED SKIRTS

PLEATED SKIRTS
A play at the Theatre de Vaudeville IN
Paris. with Rejane premiere. is sure TO attract
n crowd Of women. who are as eager 10 her
gowns her mpcrsonation Of character.
Dressmakers and great ladies equally inter-
ested in her costumes. which. however simple.
always have that ndescribabe "cachet" which
means much to the feminine mind
In lie Par:age" her toilets rather a di--
appointment, inasmuch they are partcularly
plain but charming desha billie offers an attrac-
tive suggestion.
In the third act she is reclining a sofa
heaped up with great pile OF softly tinted cush-
ions. dressed In n robe de chambre OF white cloth
cut very open in front. and slightly looped at the
waist the left side The front OF this gown
is bordcred with chnchilla fur and leaves exposed
a chemisette and petticoat composed OF narrow
gathered hounces of white moussene de sole.
edged with Russian lace. finished with a large
Robespicrre bow at :he neck The sleeves are
manches religeuses" lined with white surah.
wh'ch turns up in deep loose cum. leaving the
lower half OF the arm covered only with a full
undersleeve Of white mousseline de sole
PRISMATIC COLORED SILK
In the second act she wears a prismatic coored
silk crossing and fastening the left side
with an invisible opening the collar and belt being
Of shaded velvet Of the same colors the silk
The sleeves quite new. the material being
dr. lped horizontally from top to bottom. but other
wise tightly fitting. The hem OF the dress is edged
with zbeline fur.
In Madame rAvocat." at the Athenee Comique.
there really lovely toilets. Madame
Frederic In the first act wears mauve silk with
very full sides: the waist il a blouse of the same
silk. with box pleat extending from either shou-
der to the waist. ornamented with large disk but
tons of cut steel. Covering the front of this Is
white mousseline de sole double jabot forming
Robe spierrc bow at the neck and into the shoulder
seam Is sewn edging of old guipurc. which IL
brought around under the form the efert
Of boero Jacket The sleeves extremely
tight. with slight fulness at the top. and the
waist IL confined by high draped corselet belt or
green liberty velvet
CHARMING FROCK OF MATVE SILK
In the second act Nine. Cnassaine has charm
Ing frock The skirt Is of accordion-peated SILK
light gray cashmere. with a tight-fttng Eton
Jacket of fowered silk which is over. or
rather appears TO he over. another jacket OF
orange -coored velvet embroidered with gold This
has wtie coat regers. which turn over the iowere'
jacket and show below the latter In tabs which
form i small basque. The sleeves OF the flow
cred silk. These jackets-or. rather. Jacket for II
really Is only one-Open upon chemsette OF un
crushable moussene de sole. with square buckle
covering the entire space between the sides OF the
jacket at the waist. Around the neck rs tied
muslin cravat with long jabot end. In the second
act she wears an exquisite toilet Of white brochc
silk. The blouse waist of the same has bolero
jacket composed of three graduated vertical pleats
the larger at the shoulders the next a little
smaller. dNd the third smaller still This Is covered
with crystal and silver beads and has very
brilliant effect. The belt and collar OF green
velvet. and below the latter is worn a necklace OF
emeralds and diamonds. The sleeves Of the
white broche silk. with tabs OF the crystal and sill
which form a OF little sleeve the bolero
The costume OF Mile. Rene Maupin in the second
act Is almost severe in is simplicity. but Is ador-
ably chic; 1t consists OF skirt and blouse OF ac-
6 prey ny SoloTen sss sne
which extend across from shoulder to shoulder AT
under the left arm These are "a jour 10 show
the pale blue satin underneath The collar and
tened on the left side with a large oval gold buckle
The gown OF Madame Dartimon, is well worth a
mere. with a bel, OF plain gold The bodice has
boero effect, What French dress nowadays has
NOT a bolero' 1t is composed Of three overlapping
pleats. under the other. from the shoulder 10
the was he edgs OF the sSero Is 5 s dsn %sn
OF each plea there are three tiny Nat gold buttons
linz de Sole and The neck is nnished with a large
bow OF green taTeta
BOWS FOR THE NECK
very pretty little bow which seems 10 be used
n great deal just a lnlsh 10 French dresses.
both at the belt. either behind the side. and
I'm front a. the neck consists OF couple OF 'rab-
bits ears which are made by folding piece OF
ribbon as TO form point, and then sewing the
edges together; this turned ON The other side
forms the ear" and two gathered together and
covered with fold 81 the ribbon form the bow
above mentioned.
RICHES on THE COLLARS
Ruches and gathers OF lace at the top Of the col
lar on either side OF the face are greatly worn
while III. Jackets nearly all have high. tuTned-up
collars Tho ugly effect at the back may be- coun-
teracied bv bow placed under the collar.
a very pretty and becoming fashion. which II al
ready very popular. IL the Robespierre bow. This
f. full bow OF white muslin. with draped ends.
edged with lace. Il, seems to MI long felt need
namely something in lieu OF a vest TO fill the open
space AT the neck. which Jackets generally leave
uncovered.
WINTER JACKETS
A charming liule winter jacket which has just
com. over Is made OF black caracu fitted to the
figure with a high. faring Medic collar. The frs;
Is cut very open. with couple OF tabs on either
side forming rcvers. and almost the entire front IL
filed with "A vest OF white ermine. which hooks
one side that opening s apparent This has
"A high straight collar OF the ermine: at the waist
black satin ribbon holds the sides of the jacket
together and Is tied with bow with long ends.
'Moufilon' IL all the rage for trimming IN Paris
Just now, and comes IN gray and black and white.
For childrens coats II is particularly pretty.
4 new fur wrap Is the Marie Antoinette cape.
This is fchu-like garment. short on the shoul-
ders and coming down 10 a point az the waist.
crossing and fastening on the left side. with
large bow % black satin ribbon. with long ends