The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-09-06

World.

A plain arrangement for the hair, says
a writer in Harper's Bazaar, is no longer
fashionable. Curls and wavy effects are
again paramount, and when smooth glossy
hair is seen II is held out by rats or
combs-cenerally both-until it looks thick
and full To be strictly in fashion II
now must stand out from the head all
around the face for an inch, and at the
back of the head the same way. Psyche
knot laid fiat to the hair IS in the center
of the head at the back, while the ends
of the back air are brought forward ana
hidden under the pompadour roll. Curved
side combs push the hair forward on the
face, and often as many as six are used.
Even when the hair is quite plain and
worn In a most modified fashion, the side
combs are used, and it must be stated,
do help TO give soft look to the profile
that is not attainable with the hair brush
I'D too smoothly and strained back too
tightly from the face. Even young girls
who wear their hair still in braids have
the front rolled back and then pushed for
ward to give a full look, and the style
is one possible for both young and old.
1t is far more difficult to choose a be-
coming bonnet when the hair is arranged
in this fashion, and the bonnets have to
be placed Just back of the roll, or, If 1t
Is a small pompadour just on top. Too
far forward will make the prettiest bon
net ever designed hideous affair. For
elderly women bonnet-strings are great
help with the present way of arranging
the hair, and very new style has rib
bons quite narrow and edged with narrow
ruf1es of lace or chiffon. These strings
are crossed under the chin, and are fas-
tened with a pin instead of being tied.
One good rule fashion has laid down
this season is that hair shall be left its
natural color, and that its beauty shall
come only from the care and attention
II receives. Even when 1t is waved, after
it Is arranged, the glossy look well cared
for hair always has is utterly destroyed,
and as a touch of gray is allowed the
strea.ks of artificial auburn and yellow
that are so ugly. but which have been
so popular, are fortunately rapidly disap-,
pearing.
OF the orders of chivalry for women,
rays the Philadelphia Ledger, the oder
of the Torch was one of the earliest con-
ferred exclusively upon women, and was
created for them in 1149, when, at the
siege of Tortosa by the Moors, the women
fought shoulder to shoulder with the men.
Their bravery and devotion was consider
ed to shine like a torch, and hence the
name of the order.
The Order of the Starry Cross was
founded in 1868, to commemorate the safe
ty of a relic of the true cross from fire.
This order was worn by women on the
left side, suspended by bow Of black
ribbon.
In 1862 the Order of the Ladies' Slaves
of Virtue was instituted by the Empress
Eleanor at Vienna, for the promotion of
piety among the ladies of the court.
For a similar object the Order of the
Deaths Head was instituted by the Duke
of Wurtemburg in 1852. and another order
of the same name fifty years later, es-
pecially for women.
There were also two Orders of st. Anne.
One, for single women only, required six
teen generations of nobility to render the
proposed lady eligible The lady was re-
Quired to live in a convent. under an
abbesss, until her marriage. when one
years pension was allowed her as dow
er.
Lady Habberton is urging that women
servants should dress In knickerbockers
This. she thinks, will do away with skirts
which catch fire from the stove, knock
over hne china and porcelain, interfere
with the movement of the wearer, and
carry dust from the street into the house
This idea, however, is not original. At
different times in France Italy and Spain
the maids of the royal palace have been
attired as pages.
As I was standing at the foot of the
main gangway of one of the Sandy Hook
steamboats, this morning. says a writer in
a letter to the New York Sun, l noticed
that many of the women stopped before
the mirror at its head to look at them
selves and their toilets. Uusually they
stopped long enough to adjust something
in their dress, giving their bonnets a
touch or Strengthening or extending a
bow. 1 observed also that whenever one
of these women turned her face from the
glass and towards me she was sure to be
plain, IL not actually unbeautiful. The
faces at which they looked in the glass
were not pretty. The toilets they scrut-
inized there were not tasteful and at
tractive, yet there were many pretty
faces and trim and handsome toilets on
that gangway. The pretty and prettily
dressed women ignored the mirror. Only
the others were brought to a standstill
by II. Is IL, then. that women are tempted
10 look into a mirror as they chance &c
encounter 1t because they are distrustfu
as to their looks or their toilets than that
they have vanity regarding them? If a
woman looks in the mirror, is II not an in.
ulcatlon OF humillty rather than pride, OF
doubt rather than the consciousness OF
beauty in face and costume? In other
words, is not the woman who passes by
without needing the mirror more likely to
be vain than the woman who consults III
Does not looking in imply a somewhat pa.
thetic consciousness % criticisable dc
fects.
Too Late
o. how could have loved that maid,
My gift would have been too small
II on the altar OF love / laid
~ fortune, my life my all.
j thought / saw in the liquid eve
A dawning of love for me-
gentle breathing of sigh for sigh
From that breast OF sympathy.
How fair this dull world would have
seemed
Had her love made bright the way
Had just that smile on my darkness
cleaned
My night had then been day