The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-08-30

lively on an autumn suit of light gray
broadcloth, covering the cuffs revers
and high straight collar of the bolero
Jacket. The Waistband is a crushed
affair of black velvet, and the blouse
is made of yellow and white plaid silk
null. The combination Of materials
and colors is charming The choker
of the blouse is held by the cravat,
with handkerchief ends described in a.
previous gown. In this case the ends
are edged by an embroidery of lace
figures on plain white silk null. The
skirt is very oddly cut There is a
part Of the cloth turned in like a pleat
down each edge of the apron and down
each edge of the side breadths. These
pleats are stitched together for about
a foot below the waist line, and then
left free. They do not flare at ALL but
simply give the effect of three immense
box pleats forming the front and sides
Of the skirt. The fulness of the back
breadths is arranged in sharp pleats
that lie perfectly fat at the top
Narrow rows of black velvet are used
on evening gowns. A gown of blue
mousSeline de sole Is effective with
many ruffies edged with the line of
black. skirt of pink brocade silk
with lines of black in it has a corsage
of pink mousseline de sole. The stuff
is beautifully pleated, not in the usual
sharp ACCORDION pleats, but in soft
round ones, as If large knitting needles
| had been used to make the pleats. The
waves go up and down in the blouse
and are circular in long, tight sleeves.
Over the top of the sleeves are ruffies
of plain mousseline de sole, edged with
! narrow black velvet, 10 and the little
| square decolletaee is finished by a
quaint ruching of mousseline de sole
| and upright loops of narrow black
| velvet.
Some gowns are trimmed with rows
of satin baby ribbon, instead of the vel
vet The ribbon may be of one color
| or two or three may be used alternate
| ly. 1t makes an extremely pretty and
very simple trimming, and the dress
makers are beginning to use 1t a great
| deal.
| But to return to autumn modes A
| gown for the first cool days is built of
a lightweight wool in a nice shade OF
| red. The front breadth is embroidered
with dull green silks and ecru lace fig
| ures, and the stuff is arranged in three
rows of narrow lengthwise tueking on
/ each side of the apron, giving the en-
| broidery a panel effect. The skirt is
| fiat over the hips and in the back, like
the models previously described. The
blouse bodice has an embroidered front
and the choker of dull green has wings
| VI lace uflueT the ears. Inc STUN used
in the sleeves is tucked in clusters OF
| three. The sleeves are gigot in shape
with the tucking running around them
They are long and tight to within a
| few inches of the shoulders
Some ''chic" yachting suits have been
| sent to Cowes this week from Paris
and even the time-worn blue serge
| with white braid lace appeared in novel
effects.
One blue serge has on one side of the
skirt panel with crossway strips OF
| inch-wide white braid almost GOVERNS
| 1t. An anchor Is embroidered in navy
blue silk on the apron near the waist
| and little on one side. The jacket Is
straight, after the sacaue pattern, with
| sailor collar and revers faced with
white cloth. The collar meets over the
bust and fsstens with soft erayat %