The record-union., 1896-08-09

chief, with a tiny gathered frill of the
rippled material following the outside
seam of the close sleeve from the wrist
to far above the elbow. This model has
a short full puff at the top.
The seven-gore skirt gains rather
than loses in favor in the fashionable
world. Its continued popularity is
largely due to the fact that it is mod
crate style, neither to full of heavy rip
pies nor too scant of breadths, and
also that in it's general contour and eff
feet it proves becoming alike to stout
as to slender figures, to women tall or
short, and is also an excellent model
for light wool as we'll as silk or Gotten
materials.
THE Duchess of Milford is the name
of a new and pretty French gown made
with a pointed bodice, to which the
skirt is gathered in fine, close shir-
rings. The neck of the bodice is cut a
la Pompadour, and the sleeves are
shirred from wrist to elbow, with a
, moderately full puff at the top. The
| front and sides of the skirt are closely
Sored, almost in sheath shape, and the
hack portion is exceedingly full. We
netian or other rich lace is draped on
the shoulders and carried in graceful
cascades down each side of the square
opening of the bodice.
Among the many cool-loOking and
beautiful shades of green that are in
vogue this season, the pale-silver tintS
and those in golden green are most
sought after. These delicate shades are
found among plain and fancy satins,
Chine taffetas, very many of the dia-
phanous summer fabrics, and in the
list of dress and millinery garnitures.
Anemones, hawthorn blossoms, white
| lilacs, valley lilies, and white rOses are
very fashionable on large dress hats of
pliable Neapolitan, chip, or leghorn, the
flowers surrounded with every shade of
foliage, from tenderest lettuce and will
low tints to deepest myrtle.
Added to the revived old time book
muslin" organdie chiffon, grenadine,
India null, and crepon fabrics that are
so much the rage, we have the beauti-
ful textiles known as gaze de sole, In
| dian zephyr, and crepe de Venise
These lovely textiles make up even
more becomingly and daintily than the
d
skirt of frou-frouish taffeta, they are
very charming in appearance. and are
| capable of the greatest variety of
artistic and picturesque manipulation,
at comparatively little cost.
Honiton lace appliques in white or
cream color are very generally used by
| all high-class modists on either gowns,
or fo oic<- ~
yokes, collars, plastrons, and wide
collarettes are made of the Honiton de-
signs, with very often deep Charles TX
| cuffs to match. Honiton devices and
Renaissance Arabesque patterns in ex-
quisite French work cut from net are
laid over velvet bands, cape-collars,
vest-fronts, and revers, and form ele-
CANT borders to sleeve-caps and spread
| ing bretelles on gowns of ceremony.
| Very slight Marie Antoinette draper
les appear upon the gored front
breadths of some of the latest French
toilets formed of supple summer satins
of exquisite texture patterned in small
Oriental or Watteau designs in rare
and lovely colorings. The bodices are
| pointed and cut square in the neck,
and finished with fichu Of mousselaine
de sole bordered with double frills of
| the same weight in Persian or Pompa-
| dour patterns in colored silks.
| The soft cool vest of chiffon or NOUS
| selaine de sole and the very high cein-
| ture of satin are now SO universally
| worn as to have lost all individuality.
| In Paris they have ragged for months
past and are still worn with day and
evening gowns alike, and with or with
out the short bolero jacket. Both the
Princess of Wales and her daughters
have gowns innumerable made with
these additions, some of the newest
short jackets having a position back
| and tabled fronts.
| In spite of all the pretty silver-blues,
tans, grays, beiges and green's put forth
! this season among serges, navy-blue
| serge has retained it's former favor
Well made in tailor style, fine English
serge costume leaves nothing to be de-
sired as regards utility, and by a judi
cfous choice of vests appropriate for va
| rious occasions and various hours of
| the day, it need never lack smartness.
| If, however, the weather is sultry one
may possibly recoil from any sort of
woolen gown, safe wear though it be in
our climate of sudden changes of the
| temperature. Holland or pique Is
| chosen, as a rule as a substitute for
wool. Holland is less hard looking
than pique. 1t is pleasanter wear, es-
| pecially when made up unlined and
worn over a green skirt and under
bodice; the effect is particularly cool
looking. especially if green ribbon trim
mings are added to the gown.
|
Trimmings for summer gowns are
lace, lace and lace, changed only for va
| riety'S sake to insertion and light en-
broideries in very openwork patterns
that resemble lace. Some of the Chine
| silks and muslins show a line of black
among their soft colorings, or they are
| sprinkled with tiny pin dots in black;
| in this case black satin or velvet rib
bon is used for trimming Beautiful
white taffeta silks with cream grounds
striped with satin have garnitures the
| color of the stripe on the skirt, with rib
bon loops and rich lace bretelles on the
| bodice. Less expensive fabrics in cot
| ton, like dimity, French zephyr, cham
berry, batiste and fine Scotch ginghams
in checks, or creped ginghams with bay-
adere stripes, are made up in simple
| fashion, and show full Gretchen skirt
| about four yards and a half around.
with a belted round waist, and full
| bishop sleeves with waist seams only
on the shoulders and under the arms.
These are for youthful wearers For
older persons, the skirts are gored on