Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1896-05-21
llNOTES FROM THE ITALIAN LAKES.
Close of Two Months Tour In Italy
Glimpses Of Milan, Lakes Como, Lugnno
(From a private letter.


From a private letter.
Frciberg, in Baden, April 2s-Our last
week in Italy was charming finish to our
two months in the italian cities. We had,
as YOU know, weather made to order In
Venice; and our last mornings gondola
ride from the hotel to the station, was
very charming. The day was sunny and
quite warm, and the railroad journey
across the north of Italy took us past
Verona, Lake Garda, and other historic
places, but we did not stop at any of them.
We reached Milan about p. m, and
rushed at once to the Brera Gallery to
see all we could of the pictures before it
closed for the night; and we found much
in them that we liked, after the generally
wearying monotony of the Venetian
school. Next we went to the cathedral
which seemed fitting climax to the other
churches we had seen In Italy. Although
the proportions are not quite satisfactory.
the detail is so lovely that one forgets all
else; and the stained glass was so bcauti-
full, after the plain windows so common
elsewhere in Italy. We saw 1t again by
moonlight, when 1t seemed like piece of
architecture from fairy land. How cold
1t was the last night In Milan! the colder
as compared with our sunny days in
Venice, But because It was the end of
April, tho steam was all let out in tho
hotels, though the mercury was low
enough for January. Why the Italians do
not perish by Wholesale at such times Is
beyond my comprehension: and 1t is re-
lief TO get to country where they are
wise enough to have fires when II Is cold
on Wednesday. the I'd, we went to Como.
The day was much warmer, and we got
warmed through, walking about the town.
Do you remember the unusual facade Of
the church in Como? The interior was
disappointing, but tho priest In the sac
rlsty showed US the most gorgeous EN-
broidered altar cloths. hundreds OF years
Old that l have ever seen. In the after
noon we took steamer ON Lake Como, and
If over one wanted eyes on all sides Of his
head 1t was during the beautiful sail 10
Bellagio. The villas were all masses of
Wisteria In full bloom: many rhododen-
drons made gorgeous bits of color. and the
roses were fuller of blossoms than any
whore We have been. Then when we look
ed up to the snow-clad peaks, the eastern
ones growing pink and mauve in the sun
set Hight, and the fine masses of clouds
over the west gave us pictures We shall
| not soon forget.
! Belagio is a fascinating little town and
we were made very comfortable at the
hotel near the waters edge. Thursday
morning we had time to visit some of the
shops and buy some trfles in carved wood
and shells, before taking boat to Menagro.
There we took tho little railroad-such a
! toy affair!-to Porlezzo and then by boat
I on Lake Lugano, to the town of tho same
4 name. These / ehould never feel tempted
to visit again for all there Is to see on the
lake or of the surrounding country. The
Hotel Splendid there is like one of gu,
l American summer caravan scenes. will
italian notifications, of course We wen
up Mount San Salvatore by the cog rail
way in the afternoon and had fine views
from the top. Friday saw us on our wa,
to Lake >Maggiore; and the latter part oi
our sail there was full of beauty, near ant
far. The sight of snow, blowing in cloud:
off from the high peaks. and then of thu
roses and vines blooming in the gardens a
their feet, gave sufficiently striking con
trast.
l have never seen such maghihcen
mountain scenery, as we saw on our rail
road ride to the north, by the St. GotharC
pass, 1t was cold outside and at ont
station G--got out and made a SNOWFALL
, Still the fruit trees were in bloom anS
grass and grain green. A California cir
who was In our carriage amused us b!
saying at the grandest point of all, Eyes
It's quite pretty-but you ought to see tn
, Reckless At Lucerne we spent quite
, time in the fine old church and had wall
! through the "Glazier Garden" which Is
: wonderful place, with IT'S pots" worn fl
the rock,-one of them the largest know
anywhere--its fossils. the glacier scratche
on the rocks, etc. We saw, of course, thu
famous Lion OF Lucerne." and wen
through the two quaint bridges one o
which has scenes from history, and tn
other the Dance OF Death hung up on tn
. trianslcs between the rafters.
, From Lucerne to Freiburg was sevel
hours ride by the slow train we took. A
yet have not seen much Of this city; bu
have had a look at the famous churc
tower like lace work against the West
ern sky.
NJ. +. B.