The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1896-09-20
FOR FEMININE READERS
CHANGING FASHIONS SHOW MAR
ROWING OF SKIRTS AND SLEEVES.
Things Useful and Ornamental in
of BOys-Girls and Their Work.


The crowds of pleasure seekers who are
aecking back to the city every day are
hunting industriously for the changes in
fashion, says a writer in the New York
Sun. The godet skirts and huge sleeves are
surely among the rapidly-departing styles,
and fashion threatens to go to the other
extreme and return to close clinging
skirts. The new gowns are reduced to
almost one-half of the fullness that former
ly prevailed, and they fit so closely about
the hips that they will be exceedingly try
ing to very slight figures The tight
sleeves are equally trying, and many wom-
en- are moaning over the lost fullness that
has been SO becoming to their extreme slen-
derness. The sleeves in this transition pc
Rod are a. very important part of the
dress, and although they are clinging from
wrist to shoulder their shape is wonderful
ly relieved by the many devices employed
to ornament the top, such as puffs, frills,
epaulets, points, and other trimming to
match the bottom of the skirt.
While the sleeves were so large, all women
and all gowns looked much alike: but now
more individuality of form and more taste
and skill will be shown in new effects in
the combinations Of the silks and woolens
which will be used in the demi-season toll
cts. The skirts and bodices will be very
much trimmed with new coarse lace.
Bulgarian, Croatian, and other embroider-
les, in ivory or pale cream tone. The en-
broidery is protected and relieved by an
edge of colored braid. gold cord, or narrow
black velvet. Yokes of velvet covered with
lace will be found on many of the fall
gowns. Narrow Valenciennes lace will be
Just as popular as it has been all summer.
Buttons will take a prominent part in the
trimming of fall gowns. Some of the skirts
will have the front breadth outlined with
buttons both sides corresponding with
the two rows on the double-breasted waist.
The new buttons are very artistic espe-
cially those modelled from the antique.
The odd bodices that are an absolute ne
ceSSity for young and old are prett1er than
ever. One most tastefully made is of black
chiffon over a black or colored silk lining,
and has a. chemisette and vest of white
net. 1t has black sequin trimming and UNI
lined shirred sleeves of black chiffon with
pleated sriI1s. Deeper .frills are used for
the bertha and epaulets and for the
basque and a graduated frill serves for the
take the tone of the lining of the bodice.
Old-fashioned fiounces are coming back to
and they supply a very graceful way to
renovate a black silk by fiouncing it with
six muslin covering the waist and I1d stirring
ing deep hounces of the muslin for bertha
and epaulets.
ceedingly fashionable this fall and winter
for outdoor, house and evening wear. Some
of these gowns button down each side of
the front breadth or ere fastened under a
belt across the front; but rule they
are fastened under the left arm and on
be worn extensively on the gowns fastened
in this way. The pretty princess gown for
q young lady is of pale blue and the eff
fective tabs about the belt and yoke are |
of black velvet. fastened with silver
The Sewing Room.
Philadelphia Times.
A large room is not needed for this pur-
pose Indeed, the smaller one is more de-
sirable. as all the appliances of the work |
can be kept more easily at hand in it. The |
small hall rooms in city houses are good |
for this purpose, and in many homes are
SO used If the house happens to be stove |
heated, one of the advantages Of small i
room Is that it can easily be heated by |
opening the door into an adjoining room. |
When this is impossible tiny gas or oil |
stove will give ample heat.
Carpets on the floor of any room are get |
ting in pretty general disfavor, though |
there are many who think that their abb |
sence gives the apartment sort of I'M
question, however, about the sewing room !
floor. This should decidedly be bare one, |
next best and gives up the threads and lint
without the labor which must be expended |
on the carpet. When the floor is bare 1T is |
easy to brush up the dus.
and scraps and wipe it over with |
dampened mop.
A sewing room needs all the light obtain
able, north light is best to sew by; there
fore, if possible, the room should be on the |
north side of the house. Light should not |
should always be used, and these so ar
ranged that they are able to rise to the
full length of the window.
A low chair is best to sew in, and If it is |
a rocker so much the better. The piazza
so cheaply this summer be used very |
well for this purpose.
The cutting table should be low also. To |
hold up the arm while cutting for even
short while is very fatiguing, but if the |
table allows the arm to fall on a. level with
the waist linz a great amount of cutting |
can be done without disagreeable effects.
Such table should be on casters, that
1t can be removed at will, and it should be
long. These dimensions will permit the cut
ting of cloth of different widths without in
The cutting tables that are
shown in the shops are very handy be-
cause they fold up and can be put aside to
save space when the cutting is over. These
tables have one edge marked off in inches
like a tape measure and are very conven-
lent, indeed.
OF course the important factor in a sew
ing room is the sewing machine, but be-
sides this the room should contain a scrap
basket rag bag, piece and pattern bag,
The basket and bag and even the foot |
stools can be of home manufacture, so need
1OL dOO TO the expense or the room. A dis
carded bureau from one of the bedrooms
Will be well for the drawers.
small covered board for pressing is an
absolute necessity in q. sewing room where
efficient work is done. A flatiron, an iron
holder and rest accompany the board, of
course, and it is well to have one-burner
oil or gas stove in the room, so that the
ron can be heated without frequent trips
% the kitchen. 1t is seen, them that a
separate sewing room can be obtained at
very trif1ing expense, while the comfort |
t gives can be hardly reckoned. The seam
stress who comes to do the family sewing
Knows how to appreciate this nook where
'he may work undisturbed and quietly and
he family itself Is more comfortable when
,ne of its usual rooms is not invaded by
In outsider.
Girls and Boys.
New York Tribune.
And what are little girls made Of. made
of?" says the ancient rhyme. Sugar and
spice and all that's NICE runs the answer.
And the boys? "Snips and snails and pup
py-dog tails" continues this old bit of wis
dom. 81 never realized what difference
lfsre was between girls and boys until last
winter" remarked kindly old lady, when
gave couple of little parties for my
The first was to be exclu-
sively for girls, as the fashion is nova
days. and the second for boys. The party
for my little granddaughters was a pleas
lre from beginning TO end Their delighted
interest In all the preparations, the excite