The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-03-22
ELLEN osBoRNS LETTER.
THE "NEW SLEEVE" Is sELF-As-
SERTIVE AND RATHER ODD.
PnneIed skirts and BrOcadc-The
New White Crowned Hats of
SprinG-Green Straw and Chiffon.
Fresh Millinery Ideas.

New White Crowned Hats of
sprinE-Green Straw and Chiffon.
Fresh Millinery Ideas.
New York. March 21.-It would be use
less to write of anything except the new
sleeve and the new gown of which it is
the chief feature.
The new sleeves, one might say; for
there is no order or agreement in the
advancing host. Hardly shall one see six
women together without a freak or two,
in the way of queer sleeved gowns, wheth-
err at high tea or ball or in the shops
where the exclusives most do congre-
gate. Freaks, one calls them, speaking
in all honesty. for so they seem, so long
as they are comparatively few; but when
majority surrender to a freak it be-
comes at once most tasteful and classic.
Let us utter no rash words for memory
to prick us withal
The new sleeves are various, but may
be classified. Either the inner sleeve
follow the shape of the arm, so franti-
cally close clinging that 1t seems to be
climbing up in panic to hide under the
epaulet at the shoulder-an effect which
is aided by the arrangement in trans
verse wrinkles sewed upon a tight lin
ing-or the shape of the shoulder itself
is left nobly defined, while a succession
or three or four flounces seem to have
chased each other down half way TO the
eipOW ana TO nave stuck in mid arm. OF
the two, the latter is least new, being
but an extreme form of the long Shout
der seam and low hung sleeve drapery
so long familiar; but the former seems
70 the eye least of departure from the
INES long held conventional and it is
consequently rather the faVorite Even
IN the sleeves, most nearly like the ola
models, there is usually an evident in
tent TO cut close to the under side of the
arm and pile the drapery up on the OUT
slde, leaving the shape of the arm well
dehned, when seen from the front
A third device of the new might be men
TONED. 1t has the example of Mrs. Lang
try, and before her. of a London society
beauty, TO commend it. In this form the
sIeeVe-of an evening frock, of course
consists OF but swirl of muslin. silk or
clinton, fastened at the front of the Shout
ger ana draped loosely under the arms as
that the dress distinguished by this de-
wee In the actress case has down the skirt
'front.' Two huge panels of embroidered blue
cornnoWers, with conventional leaf scrolls
surrounding them, tied at three Ioints
with true lovers knots worked out in gold
en- SequinS.
Many of the new spring dress. even for
afternoon wear, show panels of black vel
vet over gray and horid brocaded and
figured designs. or conversely, with riot
Gus display of brocade panels enlivenino
the sober goods. So long as this is nof
usual, however, good taste-but pshawi
pretty woman titnging the wanton COL
ors 10 the sun or electric light sheening
IN all her plumage like a bird of paradise
is the best of taste Madam Won car
break no laws, you can only make them
The teagown, to which indeed thew came
nrst ana are most appropriate, will prob
ably longest cling to the simple sleeves
II II give them up at all. A very smart
teagown IN pale heliotrope silk, with
loose soft sleeves of the same tint. and
with bands of embroidery down the front
ana across the square yoke is a GOOD
example OF the old that is yet new enough.
ana there are others with the hateflIllv
mathematical ACCORDION plated puffS
which we get with other ugly IDEAS from
London.
Loose bands of tuIle will go on nanv
OF the hats this spring-like the pug
gareeS that one reads about in the stories
OF East indian life. There is a new horse
hair braiding that will be much used for
trimming purposes; there are tooue
crowns composed entirely of iridescent
sequins, red and yellow, sewn upon lace
or net; there are plenty of little Princess
bonnets-fuA of charm; there are coarse
French straws in pale green with green
chlnon bows for bedeckment; there will
be great demand for small white flow
ers, such as valley lilies and white vio-
lets, for sunny weather hats; there will
be theatrical hats of black straw. trim
med with white and black ribbon and
white and black plumes; there will he
white velvet hat crowns sewn all over
with jet and gold-in a word, a riot of
and gold of the cohorts of the Assyrians
Assuredly a gay Aseason.
1t is written in the book of life that all
changes shall be development Even tricky
fashion obeys, the immutable lawsi the
beef-eater hat of autumn will merge it.
self this, spring into several quaint seem
ing headgear, the distinguishing charac-
teristic of each being high SQUARE and
emphatic crown. These square crowns are
especially pronounced in the rough, coarse
straws which win be so popular The but
terfy toque of last season will literally
take to itself wings, a peculiar and novel
effect being produced by six or eight bril-
liant quilts arranged to right and left in
the form of a bow and fastened in the mid
die by a cleaning buckle of metal or paste
The shallow crowned fiat hat is being
evoluted out of existence. At best If was
a nuisance to women with visible fore
heads. The new hat with an appreciahle
crown has a moderate brim, not fiat hllt
freakishly bent. tortured and twisted into
fantastic shapes. And in hat and on gown
and even futtering upon the ribbed dome
of the seasonal parasol. the ribbon reigns
supreme. 1t will be a ribbon year. to The
Replacement of little women There will
even be entire bodices built up of ribbons