New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-09-06
THE NEW GOWNS.
WHAT THEY ARE TO BE MADE OF IN
NEW-YORK


The autumn importations of our chief merchants
hardly confirm the rumor that plain cloths OF the
variety known tailors as faced cloths" will
again resume their place in fashionable favor.
There are many noteworthy novelties OF weave ana
cooring. but solid colors the exception rather
than the rule while smooth cloths. as represented
by the Zbelines are very different from the
old-time ladies' cloths of years ago. They are dis
tnguished by their exquisite sken weight and
clingng softness They are indeed trumphs of the
French manufactu 'ers art. resembling IN thelr
texture the camels hairs Of dozen years ago,
Which lert themselves gracefully TO clinging
draperies What does tho return OF this species OF
cloth in an era CT haring stif styles? VIII
1t not tempt dressmakers to return 10 drapery ana
more bouffant fashions?
Some of the extreme makes of these new cloths
are covered with long sllken hairs of one color on
a contrasting ground. suggesting Its use In vesting
and for portions of dress of plain Zibeline Plain
cOlors and what known as heather mixture.
where the coors are carded together in the wool
abound in these Zibclines camels -hairs. The
soft grays of many years ago. rich dahlia shades
and above all. the greens and blues in slate
tones are shown in these cloths; and the combina-
ton of blue and green seems II be In them n rad
OF the hour 1t appears in combination with two or
three other shades in large number OF the pat
terms. Apricot. pink. moss green and slate blue
are other popular combinations. These colorings
are combined in dark subdued shades in even mix
lures in checks and in fine paids.
The new homespuns are shown In two varieties
of weave a loose soft sacking and firmer cheviot
with a soft camels har surface. These camels-
hair cheviots known as Scotch goods. though OF
French manufacture. having all the wichery II
French coloring in their soft, hairy surface. Some
of these cloths show refined mixture of grays
with black and white. Still others combine violet
and moss green. with black threads softening the
entire cloth. Sometimes the popular bourette
figures of closely curled hairs or a regular brocaded
figure partly the ground, and look ike a
pattern of uncut velvet.
Venetian cloths with their indistinct diagonal
weave are shown in plain colors and heather MKT
ures well 40 in checks and crossbars. There are
also many Ottoman cords These differ from the
Bedford and imperial cords in having the cord run
from selvage to selvage. instead Of up and down.
The varieties Of this material where fine cord
alternates with much heavier one. making a
raised stripe, is known wool sicilienne. Ii is
shown this season in several shades OF brown in
green's mode and slate blue, as well marine blue.
"A brighter shade than navy and almost as intense
I'm coloring as od-fashioned royal blue. There
also some velours which differ from the goods of
several years ago in having an irregular cord.
Some of the new mixed cloths in rich tones of
many coors are subdued by irregular velours in
black crossing their surface. Still others bro
caded in an arabesque Of black lines giving the
effect of a braided pattern gay ground.
These rich. warm goods intended especially for
heavy winter wear. though. in spite of some elab-
Grafton in weave. they are notably light in weight
The efforts Of manufacturers have been turned
toward securing a thick. warm. yet soft and light,
cloth for winter wear The weight of tailor gowns
since the OF. the faring fashions has been seri
Gus drawback to the comfort of well-dressed
women. II will be impossible for those who have
become accustomed TO the weight of the fashionable
summer mohair TO adopt again the heavy woods
Of the last few years. Manufacturers have been
compelled to every means to secure a warm,
soft goods with featherlike weight. This is only
possible in a cloth Of rough soft surface. The