The Republican journal., 1896-03-26

fvr lDlngs III lne CaHary Islands.
,l correspondence of The journal.
OTTAWA, TENER1FFE, Jan. %, 1896.
rs trgest island of the Canary group is
lar in shape and about 60 miles
santa Cruz, the capital. lies near
southeastern corner of the narrowest
aud the celebrated valley of Orotava
.wlv on the northern coast. \ car
- road connects the two, running d.
aly across the island, distance of
miles.
lrjage>, however, are scarce in these
and most tourists make the trip in
saddle on the lean and lazy horses
the flies poster within an inch of
ives, in spite OF the efforts OF the
Vith his brush of green boughs, who
lie hired to run alongside for the ex-
purpose of ''shooing'' the insects
ty. Immediately after leaving Santa
.a1 The road ascends rapidly and in
pile of hours you are breakfasting at
-Una a quaint little village on the sum-
Of the ridge, 5000 feet above
starting point. Without exception,
guna is the drowsiest and most peace
cooking place | ever beheld-an ideal
at for undisturbed repose of mind and
.ly. 1t used to be the capital OF the is
ad and the abode par elegance of its ar
-4cracy, which included many wealthy
unts and marquses. The first viceroy
The archipelago resided here, and his
ace, built more than four centuries
a, looks little older than most of the
Ises. Grass and weeds grow rankly in
deserted streets and the Canary-eek
urshes among the messy tiles of the
apidated roofs and springs up unhn-
.ed in the crevices Of forgotten jalousies
3tely gateways, with the Castilian coat
arms carved above them, are walled up,
j the spider hath woven her web in
.y palaces of Afrasiab The few re-
lining citizens-most of whom rank
aong the MOBILES of the mother country
I were driven into retirement by their
tics OF misfortunes-live in the utmost
-eusion rarely venturng outside their
'oIs and much less admitting others to
leir households, and their women it is
ii, are kept as closely as in Turkish
.rems. No tuning of guitars is heard
-hind garden walls; no coquettisl OF GU
ms glances are flashed from balconies
non the passer by; scarcely sound tells
nu that the ghostly palace is inhabited
ALL The great plain of Laguna is ex-
emely fertile and produces most OF the
ain of the island Being completely
a1-hmnd, it is frequently inundated by
opical rains to the depth of several feet.
.ttei unusually heavy rains the peasants
se compelled to fly from their huts to
he town, higher up on the edge of the
alley; but in few hours the water runs
If leaving everything greener than before,
his explains the conflicting statements
Il travellers. Those who have visited La
una at certain seasons speak of the town
standing on the brink of a great lake:
tli0 pl4AClNg VIII equal tIutIl. dI Ul1Iel-
mt times describe it as surrounded on
very side with grain fields. One sngu-
Ar and uneAp planned thing about the place
a group of wells, standing near to-
1ether, in some of which the water is
cry salt, in others brackish and in others
-resh. Owing 10 its exceptionally cool,
moist atmosphere, Laguna continues to
BE a faVorite summer resort for the
wealthy citizens of Santa Cruz, where the
heat, though never intense, is so constant
as to become enerating. In these high
lands of Teneritfe rains and breezes are
ather too abundant; but meadow lands
and intervales, surrounded by tall peaks
commanding wonderful prospects over
and and sea afford a delightful change
rom the life of the port. At this time of
year the whole plain is an immense corn
held, unbroken by fences or other en-
ilosures Under a brisk wind il re-
Sembles blllowing sea, over which great
ieecy clouds float, their shadows chasing
each other over the grain like the scatter
ed cohorts OF an army. The peasants of
Laguna still retain one of the ancient
costumes Of the island. White drawers
cover the whole leg, and over these are
worn trousers of blue cloth, coming down
nearly TO the knees. The latter are bound
with scarlet cord, but are so slashed and
cut away over the hips that little is left of
them but flaps in front and rear, resem-
bling cuiaasSes of steel armor Until with
in few years every village in the Canaries
had its own costuming, each distinct from
all the others. On some of the islands
they still prevail in original picturesque
ness; but in more frequently visited Ten
eritfe they have mostly disappeared, ex-
cept in the remote districts of Laguna.
lcod and Chasna. The country women.
however, invariably wear large square
of white cotton cloth, or white knitted
shawl, over their heads and necks.
dangling ungracefully down the back; and
on top of the shawl straw or felt hat.
Probably the use of it is to protect the
spine from the sun, which is believed to