The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-06-21

- - NouoAIlS Hucn IaVOraDle crItl-
clSm' SO Laferriere is to be complimented
on MS creations, as he designed all the
artistic costumes
one Is OF rich turquoise blue velvet,
en- Oroldered with white and yellow silk
popples. In front is an Alencon lace scarf.
WIN red poppies, ana at the back is tuft
VI olack peoples. In the ballroom scene
11aolng wears pistache-green satin made
Ia Louis XIII. The tablier is embroid-
eteu with pearls, cosaque of coral velvet
eln orol' cred with gold and silver. Simple i
oue very charming is another toilet of |
"nlte India muslin with applications of |
point de Bruges, which opens over an I'M
uersklrt Of cream satin trimmed with |
bruges. A bunch of cornflower is grace !
luAy arranged at the waist in front and a |
paste buckle in the back.
The evening dresses are fascinatinglv
pretty. Pale hues and tones prevail
among women of taste. One pretty
duchess lately wore a light-yellow satin.
EN- oroldered with seed pearls and tulle
round the low bodice. Tufts of pink roses
gave the finishing touch. Another Paris
Ian belle wore at large ball a CONNECTION
OF white MORE, run with silver threads.
Inc front OF her bodice was completely
covered with diamonds. At the same
affair costume much liked was of pink
satin, was trimmed with silver, all the
seams being outlined with pearls. An
other had pom padour silk skirt, the tulle
bodice being adorned with guilder roses.
frlncess gowns are admired when well
made but we should never attempt to
have such a style unless one of the best of
iS to
1t must be absolutely perfect or it will be a
dismal failure. 1t is long time since
have seen a properly made Princess dress,
out this fall many will be in evidence. One
Eastern authority announces, very posi-
AVely, that almost all skirts are being
trimmed, but a Partisan correspondent
states that, generally speaking, the skirts
remain plain; however, the bodices are be-
ing fairly loaded with lace, embroidery,
jewels and trimmings of all descriptions
and boieros of all styles and shapes
are in great vogue. They are usually
OF a material different from the
bodices. For day wear the sleeves fit
Ike long suede glove to the elbow, but
they still have little effect of fullness at
the top. Great varieties of materials are
used in the composition of the jackets and
boleros but the ew-fowered satins of the
Louis XVI period are most fashionable.
Pekih stuffed silks also figure, as do also
light weight WOODEN fabrics and liberty
satins.
Numerous questions are being asked
concerning appropriate gowns for golfng,
SO to settle this point it would be as we'll
TO read an answer from headquarters:
The points of go,fng suit are very
much like those of any tailor-made gown,
simplicity and neatness of finish. ANY
startling effect is bad form and unsports-
manllke. The things to be striyen for are
a perfectly hanging skirt and a well-ftting
jacket These may be of any material
which is heavy enough to hang we'll
tweed, homespun, cheviot, heavy linen,
cotton duck or Russian duck. Most golf
ers have linen or crash for warm weather
and cloth for cooler times. The skirt
should clear the ankles as, in playing
over rough ground, when the ball is
off the course, in bushes and BRAN bles a !,
long skirt is most inconvenient and I'M /
tidy. To protect the ankles either leggings |
should be worn or high-laced golf boots. |
The jacket may be Of the same stuff as the |
skirt or of hunting red. Most members of
clubs wear red coats with white lapels and
collar, the club device being embroidered
on the collar. Otherwise the jacket usu-
ally matches the skirt, and may be cut
away or double-breasted as one prefers.
The Norfolk jacket is not now considered
very smart The jacket is taken off while
playing, and there may be any number of
pretty shirts of silk, linen or cotton, with
smart collars and ties, arranged to go with
the gown and give 1t variety"
We are told that every week there is a
modification, or decided change in Paris
IN almost every style, and of course at the
present moment the most the greatest
seer can do is to predict the modes that
will be in greatest vogue this season, as we
are to have surprise, so many correspond
ents state, in the fall and winter gowns.
As usual there will, in all likelihood, be
some radical change, as every three years
everything undergoes transformation, so
it is quite time for the exit of our present
skirts and sleeves. In fact fashions lead
ers may be said to be experimenting upon
US at present, 90 as to ascertain what will
take best later on, but for the active, busy
woman, who cannot afford carriage, the
present style of our skirts is perfectly
ridiculous. They are always cutting out
around the bottom, and, well-most OF US
will be glad once more to wear the we'll
cut correctly hung skirt, not measuring
in circumference more than four or, at the
most, FIVE yards. For my own part three
or four would please me best.
Three delightful blouses can be repro
duced in many dainty fabric most salts
factorily. The first l admired was OF grass
lawn, trimmed simply with a collar OF
ecru duchesse applique. Made over a
lining of kingcup yellow, this is becom-
ing shade to many, but if made so as to be
worn over Innings of different colors the
results are extremely pretty. The second
IS a creation from an excellent house, and
is composed of beautiful quality of black
mousseline de sole most artistically
trimmed with ecru duchesse applique.
The mousseline IS drawn over glace silk.
Such a blouse would Ge a great addition
to anv ones wardrobe, as on many occa-
sions it will prove to be very useful and
The third hlOusa for