New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-01-26
TONGUES.
FRESH AND SMOKED AND PICKLED-WAYs
OF COOKING THEM

FRESH AND SMOKED AND PlCkLED-NAlS
OF COOKING THEM.
a tongue is not rich piece OF meat II owes the
esteem in which II is held to it's tenderness and
delcacy 1t has been said that there is no piece Of
meat o; the size that requires so long to
cook.
Fresh tongues are somewhat favorless and re-
quire to be boiled. or. more properly praised in
rich stock with abundance Of vegetables and
Gavoring herbs 10 redeem them from insipldlty. y
beef tongue Is more used than any other, and be-
cause IT commands fancy price when smoked 1t
Is always expensive. No piece OF meat Is so likely
to attract the amateur cook fresh tongue,
and none is likely TO be disappointing when
cooked By ordinary methods and treated Ike an
ordinary piece Of meat. Boiled and served in jelly,
as so often recommended. 1t is as inslg.d and ABB
suri a dish desserts Of frozen fruits with all
their flavor extracted by frost.
Properly cooked and seasoned slowly boiled in
rich brown stock seasoned with herbs and VINE a
navorless tongue emerges quite another thing !;
Is thoroughly favored and great delicacy as
the tencerest smoked tongue II requires the skill
OF a good cook accomplish this
The tongue mus; be firm and thick, but with
thick bunch OF fat the under side. The smooth
est tongues are to be preferred TO the rougher,
harsher ones because they are younger. Wash
the tongue well. trim or any surplus fat. Run
strong Irvine through the tip and draw II under so
that the tip meets the root. and tie II hrmly IN
place. Plunge the tongue into well-saled and we'll
seasoned stock. Let It simmer two hours and
then cool 1t In the stock. Remove H. take of the
twlne ard peel the tongue carefully. cutting of
any fat which should be tried for the fat
kettle Skim the stock in which the tongue was
boiled. strain Il and use IL when needed FOR soup
with proper seasoning OF vegetables and herbs
The tongue is ready for seasoning. Take a
pint OF rich brown Espagnole sauce. add glass
Of Madeira six mushrooms minced fine. salt
,,,l Of Ia lcaf spriR of thyme.
two cloves a sprig OF parsley. n branch OF soup
celery and finally a glass OF white stock For thin
Ming the sauce. Let the sauce boil fifteen minutes;
then add two tabeapoonfuls OF smoked tongue cu,
in dice small pickle cut In dice. and few force
meat balls. Let the tongue simmer In this sauce
from ten 10 fifteen minutes. Then serve.
The hest Espagnole sauce is made by reducing
a brown consomme until It ls thick deml-glaze
In orde, do this the stock must be rapidly
boiled down for three hours and then skinned
and the sauce rubbed through a sieve Il VIII Keep
a month or longer In cold weather. poor but
easily made substitute for Espagnole sauce con-
ssis OF two tabl.spoorfuls OF beef extract melted
I'm half pint OF water. This is better than an
ordinary brown gravy. however. but 1t lacks the
vegetable and herb navors found in good con-
somme.
An even more excellent way Of treating the tongue
after boiling 1t In stock Is TO braise H. Pui the
tongue in a kettle. add two tabespooAfu!s OF
minced onions and young carrots fried for a few
moments In a tcaspoonful OF butter with a sprg
OF soup celery. one Of parsley, cut hne
bay leaf and three pepper corns added
Add then glass OF Madeira and pint OF
Espagnole sauce. with two iabespoonfuls OF s;ewed
tomatoes. Let the tongue simmer In this sauce
for twenty-five minutes basting it once during
this time Then serve it. straining the sauce ana
pouring IT around the tongue.
a garnsh OF macaroni spaghetti is excellent
with tongue served in this way; or the tongue mag
.kn cattg tfraH
around Il.
A smoked tongue needs no apology. The process
OF curing has given TO II excellent flavor II
should be soaked for twenty-four hours IN cod
water then thoroughly washed and put IN large
kettle OF cold water and very slowly brought 10
the boiling point. After this II must just simmer
for from three and half 10 four and a half hours
according to the size OF the tongue; four hours is
the average time. The tongue should be an hour
In coming the boiling point. and the water should
never boil in the centre OF the pot put merely
the side.
Let the tongue cool In the water 1t was boiled IN
then skin 1t. II you want It for sIcinS do not lie
the t;p under; but II 1t is to be served In Jelly.
fasten 1t under in the same way with Irvine as the
fresh tongue. 4 cold smoked tongue served IN
richly favored aspc jelly is most ornamental
and most excellent d:sh providing a tartar sauce
accompanies II: but a fresh tongue served In this
way is most Disappointing Aspic Jelly is often In
sipid and combined with the ns.pdlty OF the fresh
tongue a aapjack of cotton-batt.ns would be more
appetizing. -. 80. .,,,
There Is always a large amount Of Ineat around una
the root OF the tongue that does not Size vel put
Is stringy This makes most exceHssntI po.sSa
tongue DO not use anything but smaked tongue
for pottng or the result will be a disappointment
Chop the scraps OF smoked tongue as me as you
can. To a pound Of tongue add about TWO taDle-
spoonfuls Of butter; add also speck OK cayenne
an even teaspoonful OF mustard. ana, II necessary.
n little salt Pound all these ingredients toSethcr
until they paste, and pack IL INTO ear'nei
tars Ike marmalade Jars Set the jars IN a pa>
OF boiling water covering each jar Let the tongue
cook this way for half hour; then cover " win
melted butter quarter of an men IN thickheiI:
Keep il IN very cold place and slice wnen IL IS
cold with a sharp knife cutting 1t into thin slices.
The tongues OF sheep make a most eXcel!snt
braise boiled in stock and served in the same way
as that advised for fresh beers tongue. These
tongues in little demand and can be purchased
for few cents piece. . -. -,
Calves tongues seldom sold apart from I'M,
head. They make good side dish when brassd
in stock served with p!quant sauce AFTER pelhs
boiled tender in stock Lambs tongues may al.
ways be found in abundance picked They should
always be washed and put In cod water and
slowly brought the boiling point ana sin. slmmerea
I'LL tender and then cooled In the water trey We're
boiled In. They then skinned, ana may be
Dreaded and fried and served with tomato or