The herald., 1896-03-13
FOR LENT.

| There II more than one reason why we
should abstain from meat in Lent. the
churches which observe Lent only demand
abstinence from meat on two days OF the
week: and evan q semi-invalid would be
i benefited by a chance OF diet twice in seven
days. The second reason the churchgcsr's
conscience will supply. "and. thirdly" Lent
was instituted TO discipline and benefit the
body as we'll as the soul. Coming. as It
docs, In the spring. when light food is al
ways recommended. a Lenten fast is an
excellent idea.
Fish Is the next object for our consider
alton. and there is perhaps no more useful
article Of food, for. unlike many others. 1t
can be utilized in almost every course,
sweets excepted bien entendu Delicious
soups. dainty hors d'oeuvre. excellent re-
leves. cold and hot entrees, important dish
cs OF all kinds, and savouries without num-
Der can be produced by Its help. besides
which It is invaluable for quenelles, farce or
stufflngs: and whether it be fresh salted,
smoked or picked. it IS both nourishing
and welcome at our table Obviously, too,
It may by some be considered as more gen.
orally useful even than meat, as it is per-
mitted on fast as well as feast days, and
not objected to by some vegetarians.
q ~ x
As concerns the choice of fish, there is
much to be said of which the average
housewife may be ignorant; The question
portant one; indeed. disregard of the same
often leads to disastrous results In the way
OF serious indisposition; then, again. 1t
must not be eaten out Of season, even
though 1t may be on sale and very appe-
tizing in appearance. In chooEing fish the
principal points to be observed are these:
The eyes and scales should be clear and
bright, the inside of the gills of bright or
vivid red. and the fish itself must re Arm
to the touch; pale glls and a fabby body
are to be avoided like poison. With one or
two exceptions in the case OF larger kinds.
very little time should be allowed to elapse
between killing and cooking. whereas IN
some instances (as with eels, trout, etc.),
they must he purchased alive in order to be
in proper condition. The following list,
which it is hardly possible to give here in
the most exhaustive manner, will be- ct
any rate. some guide to our readers as to
the season at which the principal kinds of
fish are at their hest:
Barbel. from October TO January: bass,
April 10 August; Dream. September to Feb
ruary. brill, September to March; carp, ex-
cept during its close time (Which is April
and May). is eaten more or less all the
year round, but the best time Is from Oc
toher to March; cod, October to April. dace,
October to February: dory, almost all the
year round. but principally from March TO
the New Year; eels, except in June and
July. are very edible at any time. but are
IN their prime from October to April; CUR
net. September to February; herring. April
TO December mackerel, May to August.
Though this fish may be obtained during the
colder months. it should be chosen with
care; 1t should be bright. and have a silver
hue: when 1t is red about the head 1t e not
in good condition. Pike October to Feb
ruary. but is also to be had from the be-
ginning of August. Salmon. from February
to August. The close time is from Septem-
her IN &c f-gt
October to April. Smelt October to April;
sole is edible at almost any time of the
year. but the best time is from June to
February; sturgeon. from September 10
March; trout where 1t Is obtainable. is not
to be eaten in April or May; the best month
is August; turbot may be had during the
larger part of the year; it Is excellent from
October to March. and hardly ob;ainable
in June; whitehall, March to August whit
ing, from September to March at is best,
but to be had nearly all the year round.
Oysters, as every one knows by the popular
saying, are not to be eaten during the
months in which there is no ''r''; in buying
them. 1t is well not to be anxious for great
economy especially since certain diseases
have been said to result from the poor con-
dition of tris shefish. Grabs are good
from May to August. Lobster is in season
from September to March.
x X X
Now, as II is my object to emphasize
dainty cooking 1t may be well to observe
at this point that boiling fish in plain water
is almost an unknown thing with the foreign
cook even in the most modest househ olds
to relieve the monotony which must result
from such q proceeding, a special broth is
made and kept In stock as a matter Of
course. and varies for fresh and saltwater
fish This is called court bouillon, while
another expression is cooking the fish "au
bleu." The court bouillon for fresh water
fish can be prepared with white cooking
wine or vinegar as most convenient. For
Instance, put three pnts of water over the
fire, with two carrots, two onions, roughly
cut In pieces; garlic root. two or three
cloves, a bay leaf a small handful OF
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste; let it
boil for one hour, strain 1t and put the
liquor back over the fire with the same
quantity of white wine (or half the quantity
of good white vinegar) and let it boil. II
can be kept free1 for several days. In
winter for longer time. by boiling it up
every two or three days. adding each time
a small tumblerful OF water. Where fish is
eaten every day. or two or three times q
week, this liquor can be used over and over
again; it is merely question of getting
into the habit Of having a fish stock pot
ais we'll cne for meat, and it should be
the business of the housewife to ex-
act that this should be done as a mater
OF course. when it will not be looked upon
as an extra and 'faddy' piece Of work.
Tow oil a1f Ecn {ta arofi ioy,