The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1896-03-23

most eXacted the wearing of the sym bols
OF mourning since the world was young,
and i'm every nation and race after it's
kind. Z AS long as the world still rolls on
bereayed hearts turn to mourning garb,
not for show, but for a sort of solace and
an Offering of respect for the departed.
What mother whose child, the dearest
part of her being, Is torn from her could
feel right in the frivolous world of colors?
What daughter would consent to omit the
mark of respect to her father or mother
or what wife could bear her sorrow in 9TH
or attire than that which Is in accordance
with her feelings? 1t is all well enough
for men to preach about what women
should do in the premises, but If they had
TO see their own wives putting on pink,
blue, green or yellow gowns Immediately
after the funeral fancy they would think
differently.
The true lady preserves her dignity in
her sorrow. She never makes her black
and somber garb obtrusive. She wears her
Grape for her own self and not for others
to see. There Is time in bereavement
when TO wear the garb set aside by custom
is almost balm for the crushed spirit,
and it would be cruelty to deprive one
of 1t. I do not apprehend, however, that
the custom of wearing black garments and
Grape will ever be abolished, and certainly
vt the present time there are no signs Of
:. The only difference can notice Is that
5ung persons may wear hats without wells
ad widows and elderly ladies may wear
sbrter wells for ordinary occasions. The
reson of this is that the long wells are
ve7 heavy and drag ones head back, IN
lesa goodly portion of the veil is brought
dow in front, and that is not always
conorta BILE or convenient But for first
mounting or for church the very long veil
Is ts only proper one. There Is new
Engih Grape made In some way which
rendes it waterproof and proof against
dampess of all kinds, and, curiously
enoug this Grape is lighter than the 9TH
or, an'therefore better for everyday wear
and fotrimming.
The WOODEN goods suitable for first
mourning are but two, and are eudora
and h0rietta oloths-not the all wool
henrietl, but the priestly silk warp.
The euDra also has silk warp with an
overweae of the finest Australian wool.
These to stuffs are nearly as thick and
firm as hoadcloth and have a soft frosty
bloom TIT blends perfectly with the Grape
trimming. For those who cannot afford
either ofthose fabrics camel's hair and
cashmere ublime are the next best for full
mourning For half mourning there are
several noslties in silk and wool, some of
them in (screet and quiet brocaded pat
terms wtthdt luster. Others have an ad-
mixture OF nohair on an Australian wool
surface. Iere is a maladif cloth which
Is new and malieze cloth. Both Of these
have dull srfaces with faint brocade or
striped desins, the whole pattern being
worked by oDss threads In the same wool,
thrown up Omething like the jacquard
weaves. Theherringbone and chevron are
prominent ptterns In the stripes and
small geometical and floral designs in the
plain. Some @. these have the body in wool
and the patten IN stripes or figures OF
silk.
Hats are msle Of stiff foundation, COW
cred with English Grape, generally smooth
around the brin, with full pulled crown
of Grape and seNral stiff bows and ends OF
doubled Grape In some cases little jet
trimming is aided and in others some
flowers of blacksatin. such as violets, tu-
lips, hyacinths aid roses. These, however,
are never used ulon first mourning, even
for the young.
More now thai formerly the shape of
the dresses and wraps conform to the fash
ion OF the day. IN one store devoted en-
tirely to mourning attire 1 noticed this
week dress for home wear. 1t was OF silk
warp henrietta ard was cut in princess
shape, the skirt bling very ample in the
back and having demitrain. Around