The Saint Paul globe., 1896-12-20

| pretended not to think that madame
MADE UP that loss on. the next new
Out of the cupboard she produced a
miracle" just to show you what can
be done with made-over materials, #
was horse-show symphony, composed
OF black moire skirt and a short
Jacket Of dull red cloth, embroidered
with jet. The inside finishing could
not be done in time for the show, so
1t had been sent back for this.
Another made-oyer jacket was in
uragoon blue cloth, remodeled from a
Louis XVI. coat of last winter.
Inc OLD coat had simply been slashed
orr at the waist line in the back, with
two smart little position tails topped
by crush girdle Of black satin sew
ed on afterward; the fronts cut off
into short boleros, turned back with
small revers braided handsomely with
plack. This braiding also covered a
VIDE sailor collar at the back, the
positions and the cuffs of the sleeves.
The sleeves themselves were very
long, nat, and close, much on the Or
der Of those shown in the princess gown
mere Illustrated, and which are the
scft most seen in gowns Of heavy
wool materials
The cuffs were made by braiding the
inside of the sleeve bottoms and turn
ing them over carelessly: and dainty
little vest of white silk muslin and
yellow lace was ravishing feature
This was placed smoothly over a plas-
tron of gold-colored silk with the tucks
and lace put on the cross.
To put your trimmings crosswise Of
your body, it seems, is to round out
your figure, make you seem larger than
yCu are. Then, If your back is very
thin and narrow, remember that 1T
is much improved with all sorts of
deep collar effects hanging loose from
the shoulders and with tails to your
bodice e
The simple, lopped-off Jackets just
now the fashion, are only graceful on
well-proportioned figures, Ali this one
gathers en- passant along with other
valuable suggestions for made-over
materials.
One house showed a stunning dinner
gown quite fine enough even for the
opera, fashioned from another old black
moire silk. This was made entirely
with the waved stripe of the design
running round instead of up and down,
as is most commonly the case, loops Of
black satin ribbon and a soft girdle
trimming it handsomely.
The skirt, cut to form an overskirt
effect, was hung loosely over founda-
ton Of plain black satin, which showed
at the sides a band of the ribbon loops
trimming the bottom of the apron
alone
There were no. seams to the back of
the bodice, which was decolete in front,
and made very elegant with fichu of
white silk muslin. A delicate edge of
jet bordered the fronts, that ended be-.
low the plain satin belt in two little
patteS or tabs.
Sleeves very smallsmutton legs, half
length and trimmed at shoulder and
elbow with loops of the satin ribbon
This effective and easily accomplish
ed toilet would be almost equally hand
some in plain silk If a gayer motif
than black and white is preferred the
silk skirt may be hung over a founda-
ton of cloth or silk in another color
In this case the tint of the silk muslin
-fichu must match and if the gown is
all black the look of it could be much
changed by varying the color of the
neck kerchief wearing a blue one
sometimes, one Of pale pink, pistache
green, or corn yellow. So managed
to go triumphantly through the winter
with all the airs of several.
A very stunning gown of a more
elaborate sort gives delightful sug-
gestions for the using up of two sorts
of materials. Those here employed arc
white ivory satin and black silk mus
lin, the gown proper being of the satin
WIFI Cn04 O1 sUH0 q
jet border heads the three silk frllls
and decks the bodice effectively To
reproduce it an old silk gown in one
color and another of plain or figured
nousseline. would be admirable ma
terials.
Make as follows: Cut the silk skirt
a narToWish bell shape and the muslin
founees four inches wide; kilt them
finely and put on very full In MAX
Ing the bodice the puffed yoke should
be sewed to thee fitted lining, as the
silk lower portion, which Stimulates a
peasant effect, is fitted loosely over
this with two under arm seams To
separate the puffs of the yoke head the
bib of the bodice and the frills of the
skirt, several sorts of trimming could
be used; colored or jet passementeries,
satin or velvet ribbons in narrow
ruches, or lace insertion. The sleeves
must be in one piece with the puffs
divided by a band of whatever trim
ming is elsewhere employed. The sash
is of the muslin, cut on the bias, and
with the ends rounded and one side
edged with narrow killings of the
same
This charming little frock, with it's
frills and puff1ngs, is especially suited
to slender, youthful figures Made of
figured silk with plain trimmings it
would be equally charming.
ana IL only the SILK is on hand II
| could be combined effectively at small
additional expense, with thin delaine
in a plain color.
With all made-over materials it is
wise to remember that plainness is
here not quality to be desired
Elaborate trimming. effects make
the using up of all sorts of odds and
ends possible besides hiding defective
places in the main material and help
ins out short lengths. Chine taffeta