Omaha daily bee., 1896-10-11

requires an extra cloak or furs.
FOR WALKING WEAR.
With regard TO street costume proper 1t
Is too early to say what development jackets
may take when cold weather sets in. The
fashion for the demi-scason consists In
copying summer forms in warmer material.
What was in pique is now in serge or cloth
or velvet and the form is fitted loose. as one
shape Is preferred or the other.
A dress OF black serge. Just made, has the
front breadth Tapped over with double row
OF stitching and three large smoked pearl
buttons on each scam near the top Short
loose coat. double. breasted with rows of
buttons carrying up the lines Of those on
the skirt Standing turnover collar. Blouse
OF India foulard in which red and yellow
predominate. Red felt hat trimmed with
black velvet, a rhinestone buckle and black
tips and red and orange velvet iosettes un-
der the brim.
A fashionable street dress that does not
need to be made by tailor and need not
cost great deal, Is made OF Scotch plaid
WOOL which is to be had in inexpensive
qualities, with a short loose coat OF dark
green or blue velvet or velveteen. The
coat should have some fulnoss in It, say a
box plat behind. turned inside, and a side
plat on each side the front. This fullness
in some sort compensates for the lack OF
good tailor cut and also for any cheapness
In the material. 1t will be easier for the
amateur to finish the neck with a box
plated ruche OF the velvet than with collar.
satin ribbon bow may be placed at the
back of the neck and another with ends In
front. a bishop sleeve will be the easiest
to make with turnover cum. The skirt
may be trimmed with narrow runles OF
velvet. say two at the foot and one nearly
half way up.
Preference seems to be largely for the
loose coat and this form will certainly
serve as foundation for immovable Tan
tastes In velvet and fur for rich winter
dress. Another thing that will tend to
keep 1t in favor is that 1t is found very
adaptable to bicycle wear. Jacket sleeves
are such modest gigots as to pass unnoticed.
Buttons are rather more in view than usual
and a preoccupation is shown with their
choice. They are in oxydized silver and
gilt with chiselled or repousse pattern, and
also In fine mother-of pearl and colored
enames.
Skirts OF wool costumes promise to be
little shorter than usual II is tiresome
and nearly impossible to hold up the weight
OF an English serge of the quality in use,
and tailors say they should clear the ground.
THE COMING STYLE.
As to the style Of autumn dress. since
there Is no longer any emphasis given
to the sleeves 1t Is not easy to say
in just wha. 1t consists Its tendency may
be inferred from the following details.
The jacket is rather short and has a certain
bobbed-off look as though 1t were a pendant
to the collar. 1t hangs from the neck and
the hips these last are Swallowed and prac-
tcaly annibilated. The skirt by refine
ment in its cut still further effaces the hips
Instead OF being convex at the top and so
following the natural form. the outline
runs from the belt to the foot in d line
nearly straight and even slightly naring
outwards. Besides the gigot used by the
tailors there are other sleeves close at the
top and wide at the elbows that give to the
shoulders narrow effect. Finally the hat
is no longer trimmed on both sides alike
and so appears smaller than 1t did. 1t
is less loaded with trimmings and the crown
Is more in view. Also high crowns are
being tried.
From ell this It would seem that fashion
Is tending toward a long slender figure.
The resources OF art permit women to look
plump at one time and slim at another
and we seem to be on the way towards such
a metamorphosis. Winter will tell.
While street gowns have been preparing
for town. the fortunate world that pos
sesses chateaux or has friends that do,
an so fingers on in the country, has been
having made for 1t hunting costumes after
English models, in which 1t is pretending
to fish and shoot These gowns are made
OF heavy English material and may be
finished with leather facings. The skirt
stops between TIE knee and ankle; 1t is
fiat on the front and sides, with the full
ness thrown behind, but must have am
plitude enough for in walking A
costume in green cloth has fitted bodice
o.
fastened down the front with black brande-
bourgs, with a wide black silk elastic belt
Black soutache on the sleeves and down
the front seams of the skirt. ending in an
ornament OF three loops. White linen col
lar and black necktie. High black CATERS
and blue and green plaid stockings, soft
felt hat with peacock feather. Another
costume in brown hOmespun is made with
a short double-breasted boX-coat, and the
coat and skirt are saced with brown leather.
Shirt OF blue and green plaid. with turnover
collar OF the same and black tie. Soft
brown felt hat with black quill. High
laced tan boots and black stockings, basket
with IOd or gun.
CHATEAU ToILETTEs.
After tramping across fields in this severe
and boyish costume, evening finds the same
women In the softer draperies of what is
technically known n toilette de chateau"
AT this time of the year the dressmakers
call every elaborate afternoon gown a
chateau toilette Comes under this head not
only the gown one puts on for the dinner
and evening II staying at a country house
but the dressup gown as well, that one needs
for dinners and other occasions in town
such gowns are long sleeved and high
necked, and the materials are velvet cloth
or silk, with accessories of chiffon, fur, lace
and jewelled passementerie The foundation
for some of the prettiest ones is the bolero
Others have a low necked blouse like the
skirt over high bodice OF chiffon or lace
few are made in princess form
A dress OF this sort Is composed of
shirt and short bolero with sleeves OF ivory
white cork screw cloth. and a blouse OF blue
chiffon, with a narrow Russian belt OF geld
ribbon set with imitation turquoises. The
front OF the bolero Is plated to form an
enect OF jabots, and the top OF the sleeve
Is loose from the close part, and is slashed
and plated and falls in the same way and
all the bolero is stitched round an inch from
the edge, so that II appears hemmed
ig NaHa Of
SILK, The blouse but not the sleeves, is
covered with white chiffon, and over the
blouse Is sleeveless boero of blue velvet
The bolero is lined and corded with green.
and has appliques on the corners OF gilt
passementerie, sewn with mock emeralds
Narrow blue velvet knotted In front with a
buckle Of gold and emeralds. These jewelled
passementeries are not necessary to the
dress, but they are considerably worn and
IL may be well to say that they are not at
all out of the reach of the modest purse. In
Paris, at least. they are so cheap as to
tempt to abuse They are In taste only in
the evening, and should then be used with
discretion
princess gown of white cloth has a
yoke and sleeves OF brown velvet. II is
bordered with sable round the foot round
the yoke and the top of the neck band and
two straps OF sable run over each shoulder.
gown Of black satin has low-necked
blouse with sleeves of the satin, slashed
open down the front, over a high-necked
lHaa.NA