The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-29

quality, while all sorts of rich fabrics
are employed and velvet and fur are
seen quite commonly. The idea now
seems to be to cut the Elton jackets up
little way in the back, so that the
belt line shows perhaps an inch. The
fronts are arranged in a variety of
styles, sometimes the revers turn back
from the waist lines and extend far
out over the sleeves, and there is a cape
collar. When this is used revers and
cape are generally heavily braided,
and white braided in black or gold is
supposed to be the smartest. -
FROGS AND LOOPS USED.
The revers on some of the Jackets
at the horse show were just the least
bit depressing. AS one woman re-
marked, They were made of materials
and quilted to look just like the lin
ings of collins" Heavy white ribbed
corduroy is decidedly more cheerful to
face the reVers than this quilting. There
is style of the Elton jacket the fronts
OF which come directly together with
the edges just meeting; they are fast
eHed by straps of braid and look very
smart, showing a full shirt front of
some bright colOred silk. These have
reVers, which start at the bust and are
faced with velvet of the same shade as
the gown.
Some of the velvet jackets are elab-
crate, and faVorite and most expens-
i've model is of deep heliotrope, elab-
orately braided with two sizes Of black
braid. This has the fronts together
and frogs and loops, while the braiding
on the sleeves extends as far as the
cuffs. When black velvet is used the
braiding is enlivened by jet beads
which, of course, makes it much smart
er and mare elaborate. Fur seems a
strange material to put into SO small
Jacket, but 1t is effective and becOm-
ing. All the varieties of short-haired
furs are used for these garments but
the still-born Persian lamb is the hand
soonest, and looks like a marvellous
quality of satin MORE. Occasionally
the revers of the fur jacket are faced
with another sort Of fur, but when
that is the case they are not so smart
Sealskin is used next to Persian lamb,
While there are even some made up
in chinchilla, and even errnine is used,
this last looking decidedly too conspic-
uOus on a walking gown.
SLEEVELESS FIGAROS.
The figaro jackets are much smaller
than the Eton They are never made
to fasten in front and do not cover the
belt and are generally slashed far I'D
iii the back, besides which they are
sleeveless and look altogether much
more like q, trimming. The figaros diff
fer very little from the boleros. and.
indeed, 1t is difficult to distinguish
between one or the other Those who
profess to be well posted on all dress
subjects say that one is square and
the other is round but just which is
which has not been definitely made
public, Made entirely of open-work
.passementeries, these are handsome
E and fine in fixing over old gowns: One
style has a., sort of velvet applique
with at w in 10 1Joo Oh
lace or black passementerie the jet
covers it entirely. A pretty way of
finishing the jacket in front and at
the side is to have ruche of chiffon
sewed just under the edge or knife
plated white lace, on which are Jet
paillettes. This little soft edge softens
the hard lines and gives the smart
look which is considered fashionable
particularly when the front of the
waist is all soft and full also
Some Of the newest gowns at the
horse show were made with skirts of
poplin, waist covered with white lace
made in bolero and over this again a
shorter jacket still of the poplin to
match the sleeves and skirt Very
smart was the whole affair, and at
tracted no end Of attention. One can
not help thinking of the decree which
took the yellow Jacket from Ii Hung
Chang when one sees the quantities of
these jackets which are put apparent
ly one over the other.
FOUR JACKETS TO ONE GOWN.
For instance, a gown Of bright red
cloth has no less than four jackets, one
overlapping the other and not one
reaching the waist line. 1t was GER
tainly a triumph for the dressmaker' s
skill, and, fortunately, was worn by an
extremely tall and long-waisted young
woman who, strange to say, looked IN
commonly we'll in 1t, or more correctly
speaking, in them
Even the plainest gowns have braid
iT.gs SO arranged as to look like these
Jackets, and an absolutely plain waist
is rarely seen. That material which is
now coming into fashion-stamped vel
veteen-is for this purpose. 1t is edged
around with the. fur and there are gem
orally inside revers or lapels of satin,
which soften the hardness Of the mate
rial itself. Even on the evening waists
the same style Of Jacket is used. 1t is
made of the most gorgeous. pearl passe-
menterie, in which are sewed colored
stones, or else the front and back OF