Evening star., 1896-11-07

the how and why of which are unCuess-
able, such is the cleverness of the cutting
The bodice is Of black tulle accordion-plea:-
ed and draped with silver tissue. 1t is cut
high and with long sleeves tight to the
shoulders, over which run frills of black
tulle sprinkled light with diamonds
To ward off draughts is a theater cape
OF silver and black-striped Silk, figured
with forget-me-nots in blue and pink and
yellow. This bit Of daintiness is edged
with foam of frills in silver and black
chiffon. with ripping neck ruche of blue
chiffon and big fastening bow Of silver
satin.
To crown the costume is a tiny tiara
bonnet Of cut steel and brilliants made
soft to the head by a nest of black chif-
fon. Blue chiffon rosettes are perched one
over each ear
An al black costume just completed for
a blonde OF dazzling coloring is a black
glace silk with one of those whirlins de-
Signs which suggest idealiZed bicycle wheels
The skirt has a broad band of plain satin
at the hem. The bodice is made with a
sleeveless coat which is the acme of smart
ness. with its short full basques held out
at the PACK by voluminous frill of pleated
SILK, while great triple collar of plain
glace silk, frilled ard killed, falls over the
shoulders. The sleeves are slightly fulled
at the top, as yet unfa ied affection for
still permits them to be. From the Shout,
ders they are tight to the wrists where
their career ends in tiny pleated friIl.
The only touch Of color in this toilet is
broche velvet, over which wave male
straW-colored paradise bird plumes.
A Riding Habit.
Simpler than these dresses, but certain
to attract equal attention. is a fine cloth
costume made for the owner of one of the
handsomest hunters ever seen in Manhat-
tan's environs. 1t Is of a dark, beautiful
shade of blue, with a band of silk embroid-
cry sewn with gold and outlined with a
vivid green bordering the skirt circling the
waist and trimming the odd little bolero
bodice. which has an abundance of small
gold buttons and loops for it's further en-
riching. The collar and yoke are Of white
satin and old lace and the elbow sleeves
are OF green silk. covered with blue ac-
this is not simpler than the arrangements
In black. 1t is at all events a convincing
exponent Of the charms of the blue and
green combination, especially when a tiara
toque is added of gold fligree and Jewels
surrounded by blue tulle and backed with a
high circle of iris flags and flowers.
L nave never been persuaded that yellow
is the most alluring color In the calendar:
still 1t is necessary to confess to the har-
mony concluded between that tone ard a
handsome brunette. The gown which es-
tablishes the peace is a magnificent brocade
of soft amber chrysanthemums on white
ground. Down the seams of the skirt run
strips of amber velvet from waist to hem.
partitioning off the draperies into panels
The bodice is finished with a chemisette
Of soft while frilled chiffon, through which
run amber ribbons, tied on the shoulders
in audacious bows.
An evening cloak which may figure at
many of this winters smartest functions is
OF rich black peau de sole, (which vies with
velvet this season in the strife for position
Fitted as carefully as a princess gown, this
luxurious garment shows lining of rose
pink satin and turns back at the throat in
deep pointed revers of e-mine, a band of
which reaches to the ground. The broad
faring collar is ermine-lined, and there are
deep ermine cuffs to the large sleeves Ro-
settes Of white lace and satin are set upon
the front, and blow high, blow low, no wind
can pierce such stout but dainty armor
'gainst the cold.
Novel Eject i'm Fur
For younger woman and one given to
piquancy rather than stateliness is a sable
tie as novel as taking. In the example /
have seen. which has been ordered by a
girl Of the horsey set, it is fashioned with
band Of white velvet to go about the neck,
the wide Standing frll which heads it being
edged with sable, while in front there is a
square bow OF the same rich fur, fastened
with a diamond buckle. The hanging ends
which come Just to the waist are fringed
with little dangling sable tails. To match
1t is sable muff and a sable toque with
furry head and outstanding tail.
A good share Of the fashions which figure
this season will be of the Marie Antoinette
order. An excellent example Of this win