Evening star., 1896-11-27
FOR MEMS w "a r
Some Of the Features, of the Present
Styles.
Various Details of q Mans Dress and
Judgment Passed as to the
Correct Thing.

/ Furnishings for the well-dressed man Of
the world are, Of course, In these days Of
severe fun dress attire necessarily of the
pfainest character. and, although innova-
tions may come and go, and be worn by
few or many, the representative man of
society, the wel-groomed individual you
see in an opera or In a horse show box, in
our swell cafes at Newport or at a city
evening affair, or in short at any time or
place when dress suit should be worn
is always attired in severely plain, con-
ventional garb; his peculiar fitness for be-
irg considered well groomed depending al
most entirely on the excellence Of the fit
and style of his clothes. his linen. his hat.
bis gloves and his shoes, and the consid-
ton given to the due proportion Of one
article of attire toward the other.
Few men appreciate the Importance Of
correct costume, or have accurate ideas
about 1t. The majority of them do not give
that careful consideration to the matter
that they should. The average man places
himself unreservedly III the hands of his
haberdasher, his halter, ar his bootmaker.
ana an. we might almost say that the glaring
incongruftfes in dress which we see any
day In this or any other city. are faults
that might have been corrected by a deal
er, II ne had not been anxious to sell some
thing outre, because some manufacturer
told him it would go.
To be sure, the wise, we!l-groomed man,
safe in the knowledge that he possesses,
steers conservative course and rarely
makes mistakes; but the average Ameri-
can, as we said before, leaves the style of
his haberdashery to those who are sup
posed to know most about it, and the result
oftentimes is something frightful to con-
one is compelled to use excellent Judgment
In distinguishing between guests, musi-
clans, detectives and walters. Furnishings
for full dress do not differ materially from
year to year. but however small the
changes that are rung in upon the stage
OF IA shion they are interesting and worthy
OF being recorded.
Shirts and Collars.
This fall there are some interesting in
novations to mention and We will begin
with
Shirts.-The plain wide bosom linen shirt
with two or three holes for studs is of
course the leader under this head, and we
can safely reiterate our former statements
that it will not, from present Indications
be soon supplanted by any article of diff
ferent style for similar use. Figured pique
and ribbed pique in very modest designs
are being shown, and will probably be
worn some. The plated shirt has reap
peared, but to what extent 1t will be worn
caniot be foretold. as the haberdashcrs
VINO have them are experiencing only a
small demand for them as yet.
Shirts are wider in the BOSOM and but
tonholes seem to be coming into more gen.
eral use than eyelets; which may or may
not be good thing, as the ordinarily
skfllful man appreciates the patented hack
stud which requires not nearly the skill in
afffxing as the plain article, which has to
be forced through the buttonholes. There
Is no question about the latter being the
most simple and consequently the swellest
arrangement, however
Collars.-There is nothing particularly
new to say of collars beyond what we
stated last month. The straight standing
article which laps over one-eighth to one
quarter Of an inch Is perhaps the most
sought after now. but 1t does not mater
tally affect the sale Of the straight stand
Swell collars for evening dress run from
2N to inches in height at the ends and
one-eighth Of an inch shorter at the back.
Details Of Dress.
Ties.-The straight lawn tie running from
1 to IL inch in width Is very popular. but
the same shape In stin starched linen is
said to sell well. The same shape again
with wide ends, which, when tied. re-
semble somewhat the butterfly. Is selling.
and the butterfly itself, tied In a very small
knot, Is becoming popular. Figured and
checked piques are materials sought after.
Other shapes which are seen are Of the
pointed end variety.
In affairs calling for the use of the din
ner or Tuxedo coat. black silk in the va
rious shapes is the proper material for q
tie, and for public occasions the black satin
should be worn with the dress coat
Gloves.-White kids with self-stitching on
the backs. with or without ailk In between
the fingers to prevent perspiration, are cor