The Republican journal., 1896-03-26

"Ay, Wy lHe way, is becoming exceed
1ngly scarce in these islands from which
IL took its name. Its true plumage in its
native wildness is green, the yellow coat
oy which we know it being the result of
cultivation. The black-bird of the Ma.
delras, known as the Tinto Negro. is also
found here, but its original habitat was
Africa. The red-legged partridges are rs
common here as robins at home. and
hundreds OF hawks balance themselves
upon the wing, ready to pounce upon the
lizards which form their food.
BY and by we came down into country
OF date palms, growing in clusters, which
give an Oriental aspect to the scene.
heightened by troops of camels encounter
ed upon the road. Now the way lies along
the sea, but 5000 feet above it, sometimes
on the edge of slope that runs steeplv to
the surf; again separated from the blue
expanse by valley studded with hamlets.
One OF the stopping places is Matanzas,
the word from mataz, ito kill.'O sjgni-
tying ''slaughter'' and referring to the
greatest battle ever fought on the island
1t was that of the Guanches against the
Norman lord, Jean de Belancourt who
having heard of the distant Canaries set
out to conquer them. Finding no French
men willing to accompany him he went to
Spain. where he was joined by a cousin.
who induced few Spanish adventures
to embark on Belancourt's galleys: and
they it was, and their descendants, who,
after y years hard fighting, gained the
Canaries for the Spanish crown. The his
tory of the singular people they found on
the island and the war of conquest is full
of romantic interest.
Humboldt said that he considered
the vale of Orotava the most beau
tiful spot on earth, and every travel
er is inclined to echo the opinion. when,
having gained the heights that environ it,
he looks down upon vineyard far below.
pierced here and there by tall dragon
trees and waving palms. 1t is more prop
erly long slope than valley. A central
ridge called the Cumbre runs from the
where it is continued across the island bv
ridge of another formation. From this
latter ridge, where it meets the Canadas,
a magnificent bastion, named Mount Ii
gayga, stretches for several miles like
stupendoHs wall, forming one side of the
valley and throwing out buttresses of
astonishing grandeur, often nearly verti-
cal for thousands of feet. On the other
side of the long slope another mountain
of different formation rearS its vast bulk
The space between the two, sloping gradu-
ally from the sea to an elevation of 1000
feet is the celebrated Vale of Orotava. The
city of the same name stands in the mid
die of the valley, three miles from its
port. Near the sea two tall mounds rise
up like pillars-volcanic cones of so recent
origin that they are not yet clothed with
vegetation. On their right the ocean, roll
ling in measured swells to the wild coast,
breaks in tremendous surf; on the left the
shore terminates in abrupt precipices of
lava and basalt, beat upon by ceaseless
surges. Time was when Orotava bay was
the best along the shores of Tenertfe,
until the last volcanic eruption filled it
with lava. Now vessels must anchor sew
eral miles out and communicate with the
port by means of lighters and canoes
o-day the city of Orotava contains not
more than Is, 900 Inhabitants 1t is an an
Gent looking place, whose dilapidated
houses wear a musty air of down-at heel
gentiity. 1t is still the residence OF many
Spanish Counts, Marquises and 'Dons''
of high degree. A handsome church,
never completed but evidently old, occu-
pies prominent position; and dominating
all is the Pico de Teyde, the lower ranges
that form the steps to its cloud canopied
throne draped from base to summit with
the Canary pine-a tree of great beauty
and value. On their upper heights is
dense underground of heath, laurel and
arbutus, and below the vine riots every
where, laden with purple clusters. Tener-
itfe's once famous botanical gardens are
located at Orotava; but judging from their
present appearance they have been neg
lected of late. Much more interesting are
the remains of the great dragon tree in
the private grounds of the Marquis de
Sausal 1t was said on high authority to
have been the oldest known tree in the
world, and 5000 years was the least age
assigned to it. 1t stood so feet high and
of enormous circumference, but for many
years had been reduced to mere shell,
though still green at the top. The Mar
quis failed to appreciate his treasure and
left it entirely without support; and on a
wild night, not long ago, when hurri-
cane swept the island, the old dragon
tree, that had survived the fall of empires
and earthquake shocks and the fiery tor
rents of volcanoes, went down with
mighty crash. Relic hunters and fuel
seekers, with sorrow be it said, have left
little of the venerable patriarch but
heap of red bark. The dragon tree of the
I