Omaha daily bee., 1896-08-23

may fashion them at home.
For dressier bodices, for evening house
and carriage use a few fresh breadths from
an old summer gown will do wonders
toward helping out a slim autumn ward
robe. II Is not necessary to have stun
enough for the entire bodice, as lace, SILK,
gauZc and velvet may all appear In one
corsage, and with the deep girdles now
being worn many a short length may be
hidden at the waist in a cunning way the
world little dreams OF.
In Paris this summer deep centuries OF
all sorts have been the rage, whether Tor
short bodices or for those with basques.
Sometimes the belt was in the shape OF a
wide velvet bias that met slanting at the
left side and fastened perhaps with a Strass
buckle or a great grasshopper bow. Again
several rows of narrow velvet ribbon or
gilt braid, would form the wide Ceinture, or
an airy gown would have a deep belt of
silk elastic the same shade as the costume,
or else one sewn thick with spangles or
rich with embroidery.
These wide girdle effects will doubtless
be used for many of the new autumn and
winter bodices. Some of the late summer
gowns worn here by ultra-fashionables have
already shown them, and on slight figures
they proved very becoming. For bodices
of made-over materials they VIII be round
invaluable. as besides eking out a shortness
Of stuff they provide excuse for the strong
contrast in color a once used material re-
quires.
SILK MUSLIN EVENING DRESS.
One of the ~prettiest in the groups OF
bodices illustrated gives an idea OF what
may be done with an old silk muslin even
ing dress. Muslin in several other tlnts
may combine with the same SHADE OF velvet,
but in this instance a tender corn yellow is
blended with a rich violine. The bodice
of the yellow muslin is laid in fine plaits
and huns in a seamless blouse over a lin
ing of violine silk, which gives violet shad-
ings to the plated outside. Inc VeiVet is
used for a slashed blouse effect over the
killed muslin, the cutting out of the neck
giving a full lifted look to the chest, and
a long, slender point running down TO the
waist, back and front, increasing It's small
ness. Sleeves, close coat AFFAIRS OF the Vio,
line silk, covered with shirred muslin and
finished at the shoulder with two Killed
frills of the same. The folded girdle is OF
the velvet and at the throat, instead OF the
ribbon stock so long seen, a narrow Vloilne
velvet plating finishes the top of the tai
neck band, which is covered with the folded
mousseline.
The sleeve bottoms, slashed in scallop at
the outside. come low over the hand in the
present approved fashion. They are also
edged with a narrow velvet quilting.
These little quillings are made OF velvet
! on the bias, doubled and then side or box
plated. Lately they have been the neck
finish to several handsome imported gowns
seen. and fashion authorities predict that
in the winter they will entirely take the
| place of the ribbon stocks. Like the VIDE
| girdles the velvet neck quillings have the
merit of novelty, but one trusts VIII stay
with us just a little longer. And even II
popular favor has vulgarized narrow beits
it is better in many cases to have the waist
look small If a shade behind the times,
though strictly up to date and thick. Nest
ce pass; .,u. 49,, T., van have q hig
| waist stick to a narraw belt for your new
bodices.
GLACE SILK WITH TURKISH JACKET.
Glace silk, changeable or striped, is an
excellent combination material for the model
with the Turkish jacket, and which is an
excellent evening design for a young lady.
Say the silk is white, with opaline shadlnSs,
blue. green or pink, and showing no pattern.
If for strictly evening use the jacket may
be one of the imported oriental affairs, but
it will be Just as effective, less expensive
and II anything, in better taste, II made
of velvet and appliQued with guipure.
Since it Is to be so covered up the velvet
used could be even defaced and not show
1t, and il the pattern is ca refully CHOSEN
the lace might be of a most Inexpensive
quality. Short, loose jacket effects OF all
sorts have lately given dash to some OF the
choicest imported gowns and nowhere could
be found a freak of fashion that lends itself
better to bodices of scanty or made-over
materials. With sleeves and basques OF
striped or figured silk there could be a short
square bolero, hung in box plaits from the
shoulders, of soft plain silk or satin. Heavy
lace in black or white, separate gulpure
applications, or narrow tinsel braius, are
handsome additions to the bolero, ard may
| appear in trim collar effects and smart little
revers. These last. however, must be very
small indeed for the proper effect, as the
old stiff, wide-shouldered look Is giving way
to lines with dropping tendencies.
Last, a corsage on this order may have a
wide belt of dark velvet and an entire front
of white tucked silk muslin; and 10! out of
these many pieces" realizes something that
| street fashion not only put her stamp upon,
but that is considered very cocky indeed.
CORSAGES o MAID OR MATRON.
For either maid or young matron a be-
coming little corsage is demonstrated In
pale blue shot silk and blue silk muslin.
The bodice is of the muslin, in fine kits,
and overhung back and front with an &C.
centric blouse effect of the silk with a fin
ish of narrow black lace. Insertions of this
also show in the sleeves, which are made
in three puffs at the shoulder and go in
close cuffs 20 the elbow, where they are
finished with ribbon w .sts.
The same ribbon, a black and white striped
design in this instance, is used for belt and
stock.
Made in this way black-dotted Swiss and
yellow Valencienpes lace would be most
effective over a silk lining in a rich color.
For the yoke blouse and sleeves, a figured
silk In the tones of the Innings and the
same black and white ribbon inishings.
| Inc fOurtn ureSSy DOulce Is OF Dutter
white tambour muslin over stem green silk.
Ribbons pale green, patterned with raised
white flowers. This model is especially
suited to slight, youthful figures, and slop-
ing shoulders, and the materials here EN-
ployed are sufficiently elegant for almost
any evening occasion. Less expensive mate
rails for the same design could be white or
coloIed mulls, chiffon or silk muslin; If
foulard or plain surah are liked, they could
also be used. and the same model serve for
practical wear.
For evening bodices the possibilities of a
hchu drapery are endless. Though chronicled
as no longer the thing, all summer many
of the smartest dance frocks have shown
hchu kerchief effects in soft laces and mus
Inns, that are not only charningly becoming
to young cheeks, but seem to soften old
ones. Several jeweled buttons OF uncom-
mon beauty also sometimes appear on the
low cut corsage, catching the lace down
like a real gem, holding up a billow of
the sleeve or keeping a little belt tight
together. For very young ladies, however,
these buttons are not considered in eX-
actly good taste, though they come under
the head OF legitimate fasteners.
Sleeves are growing every day smaller and
there is no probability that they will stop
doing 1t for the next six months. Those
OF all of the latest gowns have shown a lean
ing toward the quaint old time models
that wrinkled over the arms like a glove
and half covered the hand. At the shout
der the breadth that one is not yet quite
/ ~ n do nNpau IA IL. N