The San Francisco call., 1896-02-16

coat collar is faced with black velvet, and
handsome buttons hold down the tabs on
the cape-llke epaulets of the cloth.
At this season of silk sale the wise
woman will secure odd lengths of chine
silks, as they are admirable for skirt ruff
ties, and will line effectively the spring
jackets. They will appear in great num-
bers shortly, with their plain tailor skirts,
and will be our standbys during the sum-
mer, and the sleeves of such jackets prom
ise to remain brobdignagian in proper
ton.
The morning gown is of figured French
flannel, the cream-whte ground being
covered with pure hrysanthemums. Wide
white lace makes broad frills at the elbows
and armholes, a pretty scrap of pink
velvet gallon mbroidered III white and a
narrow frlll OF lace make pretty effective
finish for the neck. Satin ribbons match
| ing the flowers appear at the elbows and
around the waist, all terminating in bows.
| W omen cannot be too careful about max
ing themselves attractive at all times, and
we ind many who are usually faultlessly
garbed almost slovenly in the early morn
ing, so am great advocate of pretty
wash gowns. which do good service for
breakfast, and are always sweet and fresh.
For winter dainty fannels are best, and
for summer l have found fiannelettes ex-
! celient; those with even the most delicate
china blue lines or figures wash perfectly,
and now that ribbons are SO inexpensive,
with few exceptions all women can afford
an ABUNDANT supply. Such gowns should
be cut la princesse, and never indulge in
large, baggy affairs a la Mother Hubbard.
In many cases it is we'll to dispense with
the graceful train, for at all times it may
be in the way, but the well-cut gown is
almost as pretty without it.
a model Tor pretty evening gown
lately received from a celebrated Frenc n
house is composed of white satin with
chiffon-covered bodice and immense lovely
sleeves covered by a blllowy mass Of white
chiffon f1ouncings edged by quillings OF
black chiffon; the bodice has braces of
black velvet. Another good gown comes
from the same designers. 1t is of white
chine silk with far-apart black stripes and
blurred punches of pink and blue flowers
The waist and skirt are in the chine, and
| the sleeves consist of huge white lace
sleeves over black chiffon. The under
sleeves also are of black chiffon. This cos
tune is completed by huge bow of green
velvet at the back of the neck.
A charming evening gown, the property
OF bride, Is Of white duchess satin, made
with the sleeves dropping off the shout
ders. Over the shoulders passes a band of
satin with rosettes at the junction of the
bands with the bodice. The sleeves and
full chemisette front are of white spaneled
embroidered eyquisiteIy in silk and pearls.
trellised design of the same EN- broidery
decorates the edge of the skirt with good
effect. Another is of thick corded silk of
the palest yellow. Bands of gold sequin
trimming form shoulder straps, one of
which is continued down to the edge of
the skirt, outlining an apparent opening
skirt over full folds of gold striped net, Of
which material the sleeves are also made
BuncheS of roses ornament the bodice and
skirt at one side, and golden butterfly
holds the opposite shoulder strap in place
Marion Terry is now playing at the
Lyceum Theater, New York, taking the
part OF Mrs. Lesden. and her gowns are
being much discussed and highly com
mended in London. She fascinates the
audience on her first appearance in sum-
mer dress, simply picturesque; beneath
tlmy folds of white silk muslin CLEANS
skirt of rich buttercup satin. The silk
muslin is embroidered here and there with
tall thistle spray. The bodice of the
same muslin is draped and held in place
with. loops of narrow buttercup satin ribbon.
A wide ribbon tied at the side forms the