The morning times., 1896-09-06
HIGH COLLARS.
All the New Neckwear Rises Above
the Ear.

the Ear.
BY her collar you may know her. If it
is a stock OF ribbon or silk, cfinkled am
ply round her throat and TIED into n,
more or less. Topped and winged bow be-
hind, you may he sure that some honest
but provincial seainstress controls the
destiuies of her wardrobe. AS long ago
as last spring that neat but monotonous
methods OF neck decoration was emphatic
ally called in by fashionable modistes aud
it may surprise the wearer of the ribbon
throat band to find there are something like
IL dozen styles OF new collars she might
adopt.
Now and henceforth, or as far as we
can see into future fashions, all neck
finishings will be Just as high or higher
and just as tight or tighter than before.
The autumn tailor suits are not cut off
fiat at the base of the throat and then a
band set on, but the collar is part Of
the cloth bodice. It shapes right up from
the fronts and back, as high almost as
the lobe OF the ears. is knicked and fitted
in, to clasp ones neck without a wrinkle.
shows a continuation Of the shoulder
seams and looks as tight as one can bear
it, under the chin. At the top it falls In
as narrow or deep a roll over as indf-
vidual taste demands, or the upper fuilness
is slit into a pretty braided ruff Of tabs.
If a woman does possess what the French
call a con de cygne and good shoulder
line this glove fitting collar is the most
becoming thing in the world, but il is Just
a little cruel OH the individual whose head
rests nearly evenly On he shoulders.
There never was, however, a greater
mistake than for u short-necked woman
to cut her collar very low. She only en-
phasizes her detect, and the clever dress
maker VIII give her very fully wrinkled
stock with ear bunches- Her stock must
hook neither behind nor before, but under
her left ear. be made of bias silk satin
and where the fastening is made a very
big satin or chiffon rose bow must be set
This, and its companion on the other side,
ought to stand up high enough TO cover
all the lobe OF the ear.
Even on tailor suits such ear punches
and OF ruby red azalea pink, or black,
by way OF dainty contrast To the stately
severity OF the rest Of the gown. But Of
course il your conservative soul demands
a ribbon throatiet and rear bow, make the
three OF four wedce-shaped tabs, with
lace or beading round the edges. They
have such n good effect.
Just as many smart walking gowns
and house suits have glove fitting collars
as the tailor's products, but the greatest
number are garnished off with ruffs- The
proper ruff is deeply gophered, stands ont
ahout au inch and a half and is made Of
silk. or ribbon, or stiffened lace, but just
as the rear bow swept the country like
an epidemic SO do the ear bows threaten
to prevail.
From under the cars now sprout on
model gowns double or single butterfly
wings. The first are of wired lace, the
second OF satin or muslin and lace is con-
sidered an agreeable combination. The
wings must stand up, not droop, and
be fastened to high wrinkled silk band.
Quite as imposing are the various uses
of starched lace. As much as two yards
are often plated into one collar. Only
an edge appears under the chin, but from
under the ears a great frill begins to
stand out widening, until, at the back,
it falls like draped veil. A conserva-
tive adaptation of this fashion is ex
ceedingly pretty when a length OF really
fine lace is used and the frilling only
just touches the shoulder seam. But
prettier still are the white muslin col
lars. They are OF two types, the Gen.