davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
JHE BRAZEN HEAD- HOW ROGER BACON INVOKED MYSTIC RT7

Roger Bacon. ''the admirable doctor"
born in Somersetshire, England, in 1214
and known as 'the father of experimental
philosophy, +" was also great student of
mysticism. writing several treatises on the
subject and making numerous practical
experiments. One of the experiment IS
ascribed to him, but under the name of
Friar Bacon, was the fabrication of Talk
ing Head of bronze.
This is described in a book entitled
THE Famous Historic of Friar Bacon,
Conteyning the Wonderful Thinges That
Hee Did in His Life" According to this
authority Friar Bacon, in the seclusion of
his cell in monastery, was s'reading one
day OF the many conquests of England
when he bethought hlmselfe how hee
might keepe it hereafter from like con-
quests ana so make himselfe famous here
after to all posterities.
This, after great study, hee found
could be no way so well done as one,
which was to make Head of brasse, and
if he could make this Head to speake, and
beare it when it speakes, then might hee
be able to wall all England about with
brasse"
10 this purpose he got Friar Bungey to
assist him. Bungey was great scholar
and magician, but not to be com pa red
to Friar Bacon. These two, after great
study and pains, SO framed a Head of
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
Matinee Dresses.

The subject of matinees is an interesting
one, for all dainty women naturally wish
to look fresh and bewitching in the morn
ing. As a result many columns are
monthly devoted to the description of
these garments. But there is one serious
fault to be found with most such descrip-
tions. l said all dainty women aspire to
be, etc., and but comparatively few can
afford the elaborate affairs, so pleasantly
written up, for most of them are of the
lightest and most delicate stuffs, all lined,
at best, with the best of lining, and the
greater number of them with silk, so it
naturally follows that after such matinee
has been worn, say at the very most
twenty times (if the wearer is extraordin-
arily carefully off it must go to the cleaners,
and before it is sent it must be almost en-
tirely ripped up. Well, we-most of us
know what that means, and simply cannot
afford such an outlay, and as wrappers
are never supposed to be seen outside of
the bedroom, what shall be done to at
tain the desired resuIts2 at the present
moment Japanese silks are selling for
almost nothing. saw some few weeks
ago which were quite lovely for Is cents
per yard, and I straightway invested in
LWOuty ydIOS, illus cApcuuAuS pOJ lAcH,
as lace must be used as trimming, 1 Sc
lected Valenciennes an inch wide. Thir-
ty-six yards were sufficient, and that
meant $5 40. The silk has white ground
with little line of orange running
through it. / had good grade of cotton,
which had been shrunk, used to line the
skirt, which is composed of three lace
edged rufies. The long jacket is lined
with the same silk, fits tightly in the
back, but loosely in front, a fichu-like
arrangement having lace-edged frill,
and has a pretty effect. The medium
sized sleeves have deep frills, lace edged
that fall over the hand. I had used
orange ribbon, which gave proper finish,
and altogether, this gown for the morn
ing cost but little over $12 and best of all
it can be sent to the French laundry, be
washed and ironed, and look just as fresh
and lovely as when it first came home
from a certain cheap little dressmaker's.
Two such matinees would last a long time,
and 1 have seen another made up very
like mine but in a lavender and white
stripe, which is worthy of much praise, as
it was made at home, and in spite of this
fact, has very Frenchy air, and this re-
| minds me that / have read that "a
matinee" or rather several matinees, are
the first purchase a French woman makes
when she orders her trousseau, and this
| consider good suggestion for our own
brides, as much comfort can be derived
from such garments.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

the six hottest simples the Head should
have motion and in the space of one
month would speak, the time of the month
or day he knew not. Also he told them
that if they heard it not before it had
done speaking their labor should be lost
They then permitted the spirit" to de-
part.
They prepared the simples and made
the fume and were in constant attendance,
waiting for the Head to speak.
Thus they watched for three weeks
without any rest and they became
so weary and sleepy that they had
to seek respite from their watch. Then
Friar Bacon called his man Miles to watch
the Brazen Head and told him to wake
them if it spoke else they would lose all
their labor and England would have a
great loss thereby. Miles promised to
faithfully obey his instructions. Then
Miles, to keep himself from sleeping, got
tabor and pipe and made merry with
music. After some noise the Head spake
these two words, "TIME 49, Miles, hear
ing it speak no more, thought his master
would be angry if ne walked him for that
and, therefore, he let him sleep and began
to mock the Head:
Thou brazen-faced Head, hath my
master tooke all these paines about thee,
and now does thou requite him with these
two words, TIME IS? Had hee watched
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
Redfern's Exquisite Capes.

Redfern supplied all the Prin cess Maud's
tailor-built capes and gowns. Quite charm
ing is one costume of canvas, of grayish-
blue, exactly the tint of the old Wedg-
wood china. 1t is lined with pale rose
China silk and has short coat with large
pointed revers, faced with black satin and
edged with navy-blue and black guipure.
The front is of white silk, with a pale
pink Chine design on it, and folded band
of black satin encircles the waist. From
the same house was ordered a sample coat
and skirt of the handsomest navy blue
serge obtainabie. The coat is a double
breasted REFER fastened with large pearl
buttons. Just such a dress would be a
welcome addition to any wardrobe.
Excellent are two Redfern capes. One of
fine black cloth is lined with old rose
broche and trimmed with black silk
crochet passementerie, and the other is of
a fawn-colored cloth with a roll collar of
royal blue velvet. Fanciful tabs of the
same are introduced down the front and
all around the edge at intervals.
Truly fit for a princess is deep, wide
and perfectly circular seal cape. which
contains six or seven complete and beau
IAluI IL LIDS q OOl1dI Ludt Will cAJucI
stand up or turn over of the most exquis.
ite chinchilla. The lining is of black and
old-rose broche. No more becoming gar
ment could be devised, and very beautiful
is carriage cloak of Simla cloth.
On the outside it is of deep violet tint
and on the inside OF harmonious shade
of mauve. A wide band of beaver trims
it and forms large collar. A most artistic
Celtic clasp of bronze fastens the cloak.
This trousseau abounds in useful and
beautiful garments for every possible oc-
casion, and cannot in the space allotted
me give but the vaguest ideas concerning
the perfection and care exercised in the
choice OF even the most unimportant artl-
cles, showing throughout the care exer-
cised also by the Princess oi
Wales. who is we'll known to
be one of the most perfectly dressed
women in Europe. For instance, she per-
sonally selected some rarely exquisite
Honiton point lace handkerchiefs which
have distinctly natural design, as on an
extremely fine background can be seen
roses and shamrocks, which are inter
mingled with groups and wresths oi
smaller flowers.
Some of the dressing gowns are not only
extremely comfortable, but very artistic
and dainty as well. One is of flannel just
about two shades darker than Malmaison
carnahon. 1t has the yoke and cuffs COM
,,osed of very narrow tucks; cream white
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
Fashions for Men.

On Derby Day the Prince of Wales ap-
peared in lounge suit. Needless to
say, this style has been quickly followed
in America, as in warm weather a frock-
coat and top hat are far from comforta ole,
and il is relief to know that until the fall
we will not be expected to don them if not
guests at wedding.
In England the four-in-hand tie is uni
versally worn, but in this country the club
tie and simple bow are preferred, and the
double-breasted waistcoat so generally
worn in England is seen comparatively
seldom here. In London black seems to
be coming back and the four-in-hands are
all a somber hue, q natural reaction after
the gay colors so much INDUCED in of late.
Some of the most fashionable tailors are
giving the frock coats slightly short
WASTED effect the skirts are long, but
shorter than last year and are cut straight
and have not the absurd George " eff
feet noted last season. Such coats are
double-breasted, have square shoulders
and peaked lapels with roll silk faced to
the button holes. The waistcoat worn
with it should have four buttons, and the
lapels must be well notched, and on all
occasions light gray trousers are worn.
Him's remarks concerning his servants
are worthy of consideration. He writes ::
81 allow my servants-and l have kept
what is known as bachelor hall, and
know of what speak-Hberty enough, but
/ demand certain things of them. They
are told my conditions when they come
into my employ, and they must comply
with them or leave the place. 1 make
no concessions. Consequently, am al
ways well served. My men servants must
always be spotless in attire, and / would
turn a man away at moments notice if
1 found that he had even as much as a
spot on his shirt bosom. Consequently, 1
nave excellent service, as | remarked be-
fore always pay the very best wages.
"My men must be dressed also without
any ornaments whatever. 1t is very bad
form to allow a servant to wear iewelry,
and would not let groom wear tie pin
-as 1 see some very rich but
very vulgar people permit-in his white
lawn scarf. 1t must be perfectly plain,
like a hunt Ascot. If there are female
servants in the house they must, while at
my domicile, dress in black. The women
servants should only be allowed upstairs
or above the servants hall at certain
times during the day, and this they
should understand. Of course where there
is hostess rules differ, but in any case
they should be made to know their duties
thoroughly. Nothing is more vulgar and
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
New Lantern-Shaped Shades.

Cut some yellow lisse or fine silk mus
lin into strips; one wide strip for the top
of the lantern and narrow ones for the
ruches. Cut out one edge of the wide
strip into plain round scallops. Outline
these with lozenges of black velvet gradu-
ated in size, or they may all be of equal
dimensions.
Three-eighths of an inch is good size.
Gum these firmly to the material, then
powder the remainder of it with small
crescents, stars and lozengeS. These
should not be used too freely, or the effect
will be heavy. Scallop the narrow strips
on both sides and outline with small
lozenges. Quite a thin make of velvet
should be chosen for this purpose.
Cover the top of the lantern with silk
and over this gather on the lisse rather
scantily, draw it in tightly at the collar,
leaving the wide frill with its scalloped
edge outstanding. Down each perpendicu-
lar wire of the frame carry full ruching
of lisse. add ruche round the top OF the
completes the shade.
l must not forget my promise to de-
scribe the tailor made bicycle suit and the
riding habit which naturally figure in the
trousseau of a princess so fond of all out
door exercises. The bicycle suit is of fine
fawnVenetian cloth. The skirt is just wide
enough for comfort, and has pleats at the
back that arrange themselves on either
side of the saddle when the rider mounts
her machine. 1t is lined all through with
silk serge, and has a most curious ar
rangement for windy weather, in
the shape of little bags along the
hem with flaps to button over. Tiny bags
of shot are inserted in these to prevent
the skirt from blowing out of place. The
single-breasted coat fits like glove; it has
iapels and collar like riding habit and
fastens with fancy brown and white but
tons. Holland iapels and cuffs are made
to nearly cover the cloth ones and are re-
movable, and there is close-fitting basque
and half-moon pockets.
Concerning the habits quote: "A very
useful dark rough skirt, cut with all the
latest improvements, is perfectly safe, and
cannot in any way catch on to the saddle
in the event of the rider losing her seat.
The single coat bodice fits per-
fectly, and has rather long plain basque.
1t fastens with three buttons, and
shows white drill waistcoat be-
low them. A second skirt OF equally
perfect make is provided with tan Mel
ton covert coat with strapped seams; 1t is
made so that it can be worn open or closed
in front. The collar is faced with velvet
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
Latest Calling Gowns.

For those who are expecting shortly to
select their gowns for calling, and for the
numerous teas to which they will be bid
den ere long, brief description of three
of the visiting toilettes will not be without
interest:
"a Roman satin dress is of pale delicate
pink, and the back of the bodice is all in
one, though it has well-ftted lining un-
derneath.
This and the sleeves are crossed from
left to right with rather narrow black
Valenciennes insertion, put on aslant.
The collar is pink chiffon, and has little
vandykes edged with narrow black Valen-
ciennes turned down over 1t. There are
black lace ruff1es at the wrists, and black
satin waistband. A beautiful blacg broche
dress has white satin bodice, overIaid
first by white silk muslin and then by
black silk muslin worked with fine Jet and
little steel.
The long sleeves are full at the top, and
in lieu OF cuffs have long, tapering points
of white satin outlined with steel and
jet; the deep pointed band is embroidered
to correspond. A warmer dress is made
of mauve Venetian cloth with a most
beautifully hung skirt, and velvet bodice
shade darker, showing mauve silk vest
EN- broidered all over with lace applique,
gold seauins and separate amethysts and
brilliants, and here and there topaz, in
which the gold seemed reflected. On
either side of the velvet fronts are Tudor
rose medailions of mauve silk worked
with gold thread and ieweling; the velvet
waistband matches, and is secured by a
gold buckle on one side.
was almost forgetting to tell you that
perfectly new material made its debut
on Ascot Heath, viz. black moire, with
the watering in the opalescent green of a
ducks breast. It had certain element of
tinsel introduced, which did not assert it.
self. but served TO brighten the whole eff
fectually. 1t was made up with trans
parent mousseline de sole sleeves and
yoke, the latter literally embroidered with
Jet and garnets.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

vandyke guipure trims it, and or the left
side hangs smart little pocket covered
with guipure. 1t is attached to a pink
satin ribbon that terminates in great ro-
sette.
Another gown, also pink, is in a lighter
weight fabric through which runs narrow
stripes of white, and has square collar
overlaid with q muslin one, and lace and
muslin cuffs, smart little pocket. q
pinked-out founce round the edge, and q
silk girdle and tassels
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
Beautiful Blouses.

One lovely blouse bodice of crepe de
Chine is given the true French touch by
means OF sleeves of black and white
striped glace; and waistband of black
satin with handsome rhinestone buckle
at each side. Three broken rows of lace
beauufy the bodice and deep frill of lace
falls over the hands. The high Medici
collar is of the striped silk completely
covered with lace.
Another of rosy taffeta has breast
plate-Iike effect of applique lace and epau-
lettes of the same and transparent yoke
of mousseline de sole. At the waist is an
odd arrangement of two wide taffeta rib
bons pale green in color. which encircle the
waist smoothly, but cross each other
quantity in front; four handsome pink
enameled buttons fecked with gold, ap-
parently, hold the ribbons in place.
Almost equally pretty is third
blouse bodice composed of twine-hued lace
over yellow chiffon on silk foundation
of the same tone. Moss-green velvet rib
bons form the collar, catch up the small
puffs which head the tlght-ftting ruched
sleeves. and a very wide ribbon finishes
the waist. A full friu of lace falls over
the hands. Very ample is blouse bodice
in black and white glace silk. It has
revers of black velvet over which fall some
exquisite lace which completely covers a
vest of white glace.
Three beautiful buttons appear on each
of the revers. Over the black velvet
choker falls tiny collar of the lace. The
sleeves are fitting, with very small
puffs. They extend in pretty points over
the hands. This bodice is the creation of
a celebrated dressmaker, and has an inde-
scribable air and style quite individual
and very chic. "a
dress of black broche has low bodice
with black lisse berthe and the sleeves are
composed of jet em broidery and shoulder
straps. A white satin sash is tied behind
IN large bow.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

in darker tone. The sleeves are as fiat at
the shoulders as they can be made, and
there are several smart drill waitscoats,
plain and spotted. The hard felt riding
hats, black, gray and brown in color"
How really artistic and beautiful it must
have been and quite too costly to ever be-
come ordinary. Equally charming in their
simplicity are the novelties in muslins
which show large white flowers scattered
over colored grounds; for instance, china
blue silk has white design of clematis.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

The Princess Louise ,Oas elegantly attired
IN creation of creams-colored sitk brocade
MousseIine de sole of lace adorned the bodice.
Block silk naousselsne de soie Wds drdped ouer
the bow on the right side of the corsage, from
which radtated rays of steel scqains. She car
ried some exquisite Malmaiso1a roses The
design ON the brocade aeds rosebatds and true
lovers knots, and the lace employed sOas old
point applique laid Over Lisse.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

with lawyer so long as hee hath watched
with thee, he would have given him more
and better words than thou hast yet. If
thou canst speake no wiser, they shall
sleepe till doomsday for me. TIME IS! l
know TIME Is, and that you shall heare,
Goodman Brazen-Face:
Time is for some to cate,
Time is for some TO sleepe,
Time is for some to laugh,
Time is for some to weepe.
Time is for some 10 sing,
Time is for some to pray,
Time is for some to creepe,
That have drunken all tn day.
DO you tell us, copper-nose, when
TINE is l hope we schollers know our
times, when to drink drunke, when to go
on our hostess score, and when to pay it
that time seldom comes"
After half an hour had passed the Head
again spoke two words, "TIME WAS"
Miles respected these words as little as
he did the former, and still did not wake
friar Bacon and his friend, but scoffed at
the Brazen Head that it had learned no
better words, with such tutor as lis
master, and in scorn he sang this song:
Time was when thou, kettle,
Went filled with better matter:
But Friar Bacon did thee spoyle
When he thy sides did batter.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

The bridal robe made of rich ivory san th uery
face SpialfeEds. The plain, ong-troned skirt had
chiffon ruche round the he wch compact rath Of
blossoms myrtle and whe essanne aid and there chiffon
bowS and trails of the bridal owers the finland SIDE of the
train The Iow bodice the satin in folds drawn
OUdrd the right side and ledUg clear for the family and
other the bride entitled The berthe flushed NTH
chiffon folds and trail of the whe ocers and at the back
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

The maid of honor, Princess Victoria, score
dress of ivory- white satin. The seams ,oere
embroidered Nth trails of lilies of the valley
and their leaves u. sitver. The bodice Das
draped with chiffon, the sleeves and berthe
being of rich lace. In her. hair acas worn az.
aigrette, at the base of which was a knot of
scarlet geranilm. Her bouquet a0as composed
of the same fo,oers, small bunch Of which
also appeared on the left side.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

The Princess Mauds goingoay costume of pink
and gold gtac silk with plain skirt of VaIencemes lace
There small embroidered eed Figaro jacket
and full front of nkmduue chiffon elaborated by of
small tucs and Valencnes each group
The eues had pufs at the top but closely gathered from
thence to the cr oher there rue of Vaencenes lace
The double aibamd Of pink and black ribbon fastening
under ro and the thoaet pink ribbon vb Valenciennes
rosettes each side. A little cape match
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

so disagreeable as badly managed house
hold, and must confess that l judge peo-
pie frequently by the kind OF servants they
have, and the way everything is arranged.
Into disorderly household will not
visit twi ice"
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

Time was when conscience dwelled
With men of occupations;
Time was when lawyers did not thrive
SO well by mems vexation.
Time was when kings and beggars
OF one poore stuff had being:
Time was when Office kept no knaves-
That time it was worth seeing
Time was bowie of water
Did give the face reflection:
Time was when women knew no paint,
Which now they call complexion.
"TIME WAS! I know that, brazen-face,
without your telling. l know TINE WAS,
and l know what things there was when
TINE WAS; and if you speake no wiser no
master shall be walked by mee."
Thus Miles talked and sang till another
half hour was gone. Then the Brazen
Head spoke again these words, "TIME is
PAST" and fell to the ground. Then fol-
lowed terrible noise, with strange flashes
of fire, so that Miles was half dead with
fear. At the noise the two Friars awoke,
and wondered to see the room full of
smoke, but when that vanished they per-
ceived the Brazen Head lying broken on
the ground. At this sight they grieved,
and called on Miles for explanation.
Miles, half dead with fear, said it fell
down of itself. Friar Bacon asked him if
it did not speak.
"Yes,' quoth Miles. "it spoke, but TO no
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

Nine. Deschamps, who invented the pop
ular Julienne soup, died in Paris recently,
aged 81 years.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

Only 116 divorces have been granted ir
Canada in the last twenty years.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16
NEW TO-DAY:

A great big buy-12OO pairs Fine Quad
ruple Silver plated Salt and Pepper Shak-
New-York tribune., 1896-10-06
Read Our Market Letter.

t,,t,,.hcd ., er, isy On financial " the NfM
ynpE HFRArD Also Grain Letter published daily
In Inc v ALL STREET News. 80. ~, ,,v-,t,>-,.r.
la rrest esrlusi.e wire system embracing boson '"'
ago washington. Buffalo and Toronto. . ,....
Wr,te us f.r al, Information N St"chS "id4n '''t'h
r..-.-..---a M rrhlLne
New-York tribune., 1896-10-06
"D RTIIpERS

Scaled proposals for furnishing the necessary ma
the labor for erecting and finishing
,rs structure comprising two wings TWO stories high
f,r ,he acromm0daon of 2di patents IN single rooms
on, lining day rooms sections. &c building for
,iur and serving stories high. and kitchen
- ,iiery building STORY high having the necessary
,.ss,rv rooms connected herewith for the Manhattan
go r,snital at Wards Island. y Y. b~ by
,pu ~ 10 'yerpd IN person ap 80 o'clock y NJ. Oc
tchar nm 1896 John McAnerneS Acting President u
ia. poarl ~ Managers. No Madison Avenue. New NOrk
rv Al which time and place the Board of Managers VII
receive and open all PROPOSALS ,,
of he work will bee -iarante@d.
,,.,,',.r,is mus, he the whole work. and be
Gov, ,a,ieJ d., bonds Of suretles. ~ surety
,,-4nfeeig the faithful execution of the offer
a.rc,-at lhe SUCCESSFUL bidder Will be required
,rntsn bonds approved surety company guar
.,t.ainy faithful performance ~ contact
Ths oad Nam gers reserve me tght 10 REJECT any
- ,u mi. As they may for the best
STATE. , .,. d.. ..., ,. 49,.
,i,,l proposas ob9 ned A. the cnce oi l. @. Perry
r.rt,er, IN tho Capitol az Albany. y. y. at the
a. . =, ,hs uoard Il Managers. No. Madison Avenue
~. vi. .lfv JOHN McANERNEY.
NeN ' Acting President Board OF Managers