New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-08-03
SUMMER IN PARIS.
COSTUMES-THIN MA
TERIALS AND LACE

scented In the city Is proclaimed tonight by Few
lighted hotels or apartments, with windows opened
and curtains drawn that the soft glimmer OF cam
dies or shaded lamps may add their lustre TO the
illumination OF the street outside. These are days
when even the Frenchman forgets his 1read OF a
current OF air. There is sprinkling of private
carriages In he throng, but these swiftly make
FOR the Bots to draw up before one o! the nu-
mcrous cafes where their occupants may sip cool
Ing summer drinks at absurd summer prices under
the trees. The Parsienne in these cases has quite
discarded the modishness OF her usual costume
de Vile" and appears In the simplicity OF summer
frocks. often without gloves. with the lightes; Of
chapeaux. and the dainty dmIties and muslfns
that have been provided for her country or seaside
wardrobe Many a mondaine is staying In town
this hot af,er-the-season week simply 10 superin-
tend the making o. these frocks. and she
halls the general Generalization that the weather
brings opportunity OF trying them. One may
get glinpses o. many pretty gowns on these even
ings
A frock OF sheer ecru linen is deliberately trimmed
with black lace. About the bottom OF the skirt
narrow lacs-edgel rufies make proper fufiness,
and above "a bowknot pattern done with narrow
lace Insertion. The fulness In tho bodice IL oddly
arranged with up-and-down folds crossed by cir
cular folds above ending in ruffie that outlines
bolero The boAro Is not separate garment
apparently. but simply a boiero effect given to
the bodice By OF the circular folds OF the
stuff and the ruffed edge. The cboker and sash
are OF dark red silk and the picture-hat OF cream
ricestraw Is loaded with peoples
Another gown OF the ubiquitous tcru lawn has
perforated pattern embroidered In black silk
and Is mounted light blue transparency
The embroidery scalops the bottom of the skirt 10
show narrow blue silk rufie The bodice has
high belt and choker OF plaid silk in light colors
with a band OF vivid red running through IT,
The hat worn is one OF the new sailors OF ecru
Panama straw, with the edge OF the brlm bound
with black, and soft crown held by black veil
vet band.
Why the popularity OF the sailor hat in warm
weather? / suppose it keeps the half tidy. a.
though X IL sure 10 destroy its curl wave. and
straight locks and flushed face appear better
under the severity OF Its straight line than beneath
the ghtes, and coolest OF elaborate hats turn
ing away from the face Certainly the sailor hat
is neither cool comfortable but Il Is safe In
the same way a toque is a dangerous experiment
in warm weather. and the milliners generally wise
ly reserve them for spring use To appear well, a
toque must rest profuson OF carefully waved
hair and unless the hair Is 10 wave nicely
OF its own sweet will this effect IL difficult not only
to accomplish bu; TO feel confident OF during the
summer.
The small sidecombe are more than ever useful
now. and four small can be better arranged
than the two large circular ones that Mt the sides
OF the head Two tiny ones. carefully adjusted over
the temples will pun out the locks from which
every vestige of curl has departed and obviate the
necessity OF torturing them with irons: while the
other two arrange the side hair The jewellers
have introduced a novelty that does away with the
lowe combs 1t Is gold sometimes Jeweled)
safety pin cunningly fastened that there Is no
possibility OF Its slipping. and 1t IL used to pin up
the loose locks at the nape OF the neck
Among other novelties shown by the jewellers
are ornaments copied after flowers In and
original designs spray OF elderblossoms. done in
small diamonds. with leaves Of green enamel is
exquisite: and white enamel lilies Of tine valley.
with brilliant centres come on slender gold stems
to be arranged among the lace trimming OF cor
sage For shirtwaists there are dainty sets In blue
steel. sometimes incrusted with small diamonds.
The set consists OF bet-buckle studs. sleeve
links and scarfpin loop. n wishes TO be quite
consistent such trines umbrella handle may be
added one sometimes string OF good
sized pearls about the choker OF high
necked gown: and the jewellers affirm that this
manner OF wearing pearls Is considered good
form now. and that they are rearrangins many
valuable necklaces In this manner
Among the many enemies of the bicycle are
the proprietors OF the many Paris cafes and open
air resorts. who declare that the machine has car
red ali OF the summer bushes. into the country.
II n trio that cafe-restaurants are springing up
and making thick belt along the river and about
the environs OF Paris; but country trips. II made
easier are more elaborate and expensive on this
account Their season is short one. the rush
is confined TO few days In the week. and TO
cover expenses prices correspondngly high.
Paris promises 10 be one OF the most ex-
pens.ve summer resorts In the world. The many
bicycle clubs private parties organize frequent
runs into the country TO breakfast at some noted
restaurant which must always be In readiness Tor
these arrivals.
The Chalet des Cycles, on the suresnes edge OF
the Bots Is favorte resort. and Is always crowded
after dinner and at unchtime. Even now there IL
A good sprinkling Of the smart set there OF
morning They stop for glass OF iced milk or
for midday breakfast. In the morning there are
more skirts than "culottes, while IN the
evening the reverse is true. and the difference in
costume quite defines the difference in the social
position OF the patrons. Most Of the bicycle skirts
are extremely scant reaching but trihe oelo"
the knees when walking. and have the severity OF
a habit These warm mornings ecru or white
pique jacket is worn over the shirtwast The Iooss
sackcoats are very popular but they rarely look
we'll This Is a favorite resort for equestrians as
well. and the horsewoman looks graceful and dis
tinguished among the crowd Of bicyclists. Summer
riding habits include the ecru or white pique
Jacket The forms fitting setting for the
costumes Iron stands and chairs cover the front,
and under the edging the river are gray tents
under which one may breakfast. The members OF
the Hungarian Band are picturesque In emorold-
cred shirts and spotess vests and trousers. The
whole place is arranged for the comfort and con,
venlence Of the bicycist. Hall a dozen iiveried
mace them in The numbered racks. and there are
rooms both for the repairing OF bicycles and toilet
Other restaurants popular rendezvous Tor
coaching and driving parties. and at these places
many dainty feminine costumes are displayed;
A curious innovation OF the day is the use OF
white thread gloves by well-dressed women. All
the shops are selling these In large quantities Tor
country use FOR the French woman regards nothing
but A white glove as In the least "dressy and
tina, these may be laundered Is In their favor
They come In the mousquetsire shape with TWO
buttons and heavy black stitching, and shape and
fl are excellent =.
The large hotel al 81. German. situated on the
high blun overlooking the river ana green plains
beyond il popular dining spot for coaching
parties The women look "a winsome az a hock
OF birds with never feather ruff1ed by ne long
drive on a recent occasion A costume or ecru
fanny was noticeable The skirt was built over
a foundation OF the same color with scal!ops OF
arrow ruffng edged with ecru lace, about the
foot The long sleeves were novel. with the stun
arranged IN a few loose pufs the outside OF
irsid q sni;e Of The pu1s the sleeNes