The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1896-03-22
THE NEW SLEEVE"
SELF-ASsERTIyEdND RATHER ODD.
SAYS Hmm os6URy. ~
PaDelled skirt. and Brocade white
Crowned Spring Hats Green Straw and
Chinon-Tresh Ideas in Millinery.


N~OPy i4Ellli 1870 Tor Inc IlmeS.D
! 1t would be useless to write of anything
] except the new sleeve and the new gown
OF which it is the chief feature.
The new sleeves. one might say: for
there Is no order or agreement i'm the adj
vancing host Hardly shall one see six
Women together without freak or two.
IN the way OF queor-sleeved gowns. wheth-
/ er al high tea or bail. or in the shops
where the exclusives most do congregate.
, Freaks one calls them. speaking in all
+ honesty. for 50 they seem, so long as they
J. are comparatively few: but when ma
jority surrender to a freak, It becomes at
once most tasteful and cassie. Let us
utter no rash words for memory 10 prick
US withal.
The new sleeves are various. but may
be classified Either the inner sleeves fol-
low the shape Of the arm, 50 frantcally
close clinging cat II seems to be climbing
up in panic 70 hide under the epaulct al
the shouldor-an effect which is aided by
the arrangement I'm transverse wrinkles
sewcd upon a tight lining-or the shape OF
the shoulder itself is left nobly defined,
while a succession Of three or four fiounces
seem 10 have chased each other down half
way to the elbow and 10 have stuck I'm
mid-arm OF the two. the latter is least
new. being but an extreme form of the
long shoulder seam and low-hung sleeve
drapery so long familiar. but the former
seems TO the eye least OF a departure from
the lines long held conventional, and 10 is
consequently rather the favoFite Even
in the sleeves most nearly like the old
models. there is usually an evident in
tent 20 cut close 20 the under side OF the
arm and pile the drapery up on the out
side leaving the shape Of the arm well
defined, when seen from the front
A third device Of the new might be
mentioned IL has the example of Mrs
Langtry and. before her. of a London
society beauty, to commend H. In this
form the sleeve-Of an evening frock, OF
course-consists Of but a swirl OF mus
lin, silk. or chiffon. fastened at the frOnr
of the shoulder and draped loosely un-
der the arms as FAR down as the elbow.
II may be added that the dress distin
guished by this device IN the actress
cast has down the skirt front two huge
panels OF embroidered blue cornfowers
with conventional leaf scrolls surround
ing them. tied at three points with true
lovers knots worked out IN golden Sc
quins.
Many OF the new spring dresses. even
for afternoon wear, show panels OF DiacA
velvet over gray and ford brocaded ana
figured leSlgISs OF tAAAFtlo Wy N-N+' A-"N
Gus display OF brocade panels enlivenins
the sober goods. SO long as this Is not
usual. however goodt taste-but pshaw'
A pretty woman hinging the wdnton coicIs
~ the sun or electric Hight. sheening IN all
her plumage like bird Of Paradise IS
the best OF taste. Madam. you can nreaN
no laws. you can only make them
The tea-gown.t to which indeed they came
first and are most appropriate. viii prop
ably longest cling TO the simple s'eeFes,
A. /, give them up AT all. \ very smart
,ea-gown IN pale hel otrope silk with l'csa
soft sleeves OF the same tint, ana win
hands OF embroidery down the 'front.' anu
across the square yoke is good example
~ tho old that is yet new enough. Ana
,bere are others with the hatefully math-
ematical accordion plated puhs wnieh
we get with other ugly ideas from London.
loose bands OF tulle viii go on many OF
,he hats this spring-lke the pusgarees
hat one reads about In the stories OF
est Indian life. There Is a new horse
hair braiding that will be much used for
trimming PURPOSES. there are toqus