The record-union., 1896-06-28

emectS are Still ehe rage, the snort
pointed bodice is likewise in great use.
The basque Is added to many Of these
bodices, but unless very short and full
the basque-bodice with hip seams GER
tainly adds years to the appearance of
the wearer. Although stylish effects are
achieved in this style of waist, it is
never a ul-looking one even on a
young. slender figure
Double skirts of equal length are noted
among new summer dress models for
day wear. Each skirt is finished with
hem and three or four tucks above the
hem.
There are many beautiful tints of
oiled ina tablespoonful of -four, pepper
sreen among the summer dress fabrics,
and pink is charmingly combined with
these dyes. 1t is question yet to be
solved how these delicate dyes will re-
sist the onslaught Of the American lauh-
dress, but there is no doubt that the
shades are all particularly restful to the
eye in midsummer and as charming as
they are restful.
Grass-linen handkelchiefs are the
latest development of the craze for this
hay-colored material, which, unless re-
lieved with some Complementary trim
ming, is unbecoming to nine-tenthS OF
the women who wear it. Vests OF grass
linen are worn with tailor-made coats
and skirts. The vest is full and loose
and is arranged in q series of tuckS with
lace insertion and narrow edging be-
tween the tuckS. Canvas and etamlne
dresses in the same color as grass-linen
are made to show colored silk Innings
corresponding to the color of the pattern
on the canvas ground.
Very many of the new washable
Gowns are made full all round-a style
known at the dressmaker's as the
housemaids' skirt Sometimes there
is a very deep hem, again two. three
or five narrow frills, one tapping the
other These frills are set on with a
fine cord and serve a double purpose;
they keep the dress from falling In
about the feet and certainly tend to en-
bellish it. With such gown, pething
looks better in the way OF shoulder
covering than a muslin cape With frilled
Of light material, are frequently tucked
from the hem to several inches above
the knees, and on a few gowns there is
a narrow knife-pleated frill of the dress
material below the hem. Skirts thus
tucked are ungored and prove far easier
TO hang and adjust than the gored
skirt with it's frequent tendency to sag
at the sides after the skirt is completed
and worn a few times.
If we are to have a sultry summer,
foretaste of which has already been
ours it is certain that all the musllns,
tulles, chiffons, dimities and the host
OF other diaphanous textiles will prove
most acceptable. The importing and
fancy dry goods houses are crowded
with very lovely, tempting goods OF
this description, and richer, heavier
and far more expensive costumes are
passed by for these cool, fascinating
and smart little gowns. Pink, cream
and ecru dimities or OrgandieS are ideal
summer fabrics, and make up admira-
bly, with the lace and embroidery which
can be purchased anywhere, the cost OF
which is very slight. Plain zephyrs and
monochrome lawns look better than
patterned goods do for dressy wear,
especially when combined with ribbon
and embroidery. This opinion may not
be shared by all. There are, however,
any number Of beautiful printed lawns
for those who are partial to colored
designs.
Very pretty beach and mountain
dresses are made of dark blue etamdne
canvas or mohair, with blouse waist
and revers Of embroidered grass linen
in openwork designs. Cuffs and sailor
collars are added to many Of these cos
tunes. The fancy for collars, plas-
IRONS and other accessories Of ecru or
hax-colored linen grows rapidly and
almost every day some novelty of this
kind appears.
Vandykes in both large and small
points, bands Of insertion, narrow bebe
ribbon in rows, festooned founces,
milliners' folds, tiny ruches, and triple
frills, all appear on the sides, fronts, or
at the hens of the newest dress skirts.
Buttons varied in size for skirt, bod
ice sleeve and vest decoration, with
buckles and shoulder-clasps to match,
form a very important feature Of dressy
gowns for the summer. They are used
severally on morning, afternoon, and
evening dresses, but they look the best
and most appropriate on airy toilets for
full-dress wear, glittering amid folds
Of chiffon or mousselaine de sole, or
cascades and choux Of lace or pleated
tulle.
It is likely that by the time that
heavy cold weather fabrics are again
seasonable, we shall see still greater
change in the contour of sleeves. Just
now the airy summer textiles make the
full puffed style almost necessity, and
the models for the moment are a COM
promise between the extremes of the
old fashioned light unadorned variety
and the monstrosities, which, however,
never became as wholly inflated in
Paris as with us. The present shapes
are really prettier and more becoming
than anything we have had in years,
and the cnoice is almost unlimited as
to the style of arranging the upper por-
ton of the sleeves Three frills, plain
or lined, with eolored silk or satin in
stead of puff at the top, are very
pretty in silks and light woods. and the
bell puff, with nearly all the fullness
above the elbow, is another favored
model. Some of the transparent gowns
have sleeves of alternate Huguenot
putting and lace insertion covering the
ann to the shoulder, where there are
pointed jabot draperies edged with
knife-p -pleated frills or lace. Tulle fichus
with short butterfly shoulder puffs are
worn on airy evening toilets made IN