New-York tribune., 1896-10-25
"LAVENDER'S." "
A LITTLE WEST SIDE RESTAURANT THAT
HAS DEVELOPED FROM A SOAP-BOx.
THERE ARE NO NAPKINS THERE. But THE
OYSTERS AND LOBsTERS AND CRABS

AXE tNFQt NbbEb'
Thirty-hfth-st. at that point where II intersects
Seventh-ave Is not particularly attractive. were
not for the presence of the NewYOrk State Arsenal
which IL rather an irr posing mass OF red brick
there would be nothing to distinguish the locahty
from n great many other OF the worn-out ana
wra ther- beaten sections Of the town just pocK
away from this corner IL Herald square NOISY WIZ"
cabIe-oars elevated trains and hurrying cabs Two
churches of no great age give sort OF sa"c'"s ~
ThIrty-ffth-st. just west OF Seventh-ave. ana al
most under the very shadow OF one OF THESE S'"''''
edlices is "Lavender's.
- Iavenders Is an odd little West Side restaurant
Nv some Of It's patrons Il Il, called THE West Side
Dels" Some five years ago Lavender-that - what
the boys ncknamed the proprietor. because MS real
ma me was unpronornceable sort OF 'omp'ia
t!on-started I'm business with soap-poN an"
bllshel OF oysters Industry and close atteh'ioh "
the tastes Of his customers won him "A large a""
select patronage. One day there was 'ra"Sio' ,"'
tlon. Lavender rented the small basement 'us'
back OF where he had been accustomed 10 10 o"Si
ness with the soap-box as "A curbstone res.auI''
tour and opened a fulI-hedged chophouse only. IN
s,eod of cooking chops he made speciality OF All
kinds OF sea food.
This happened five years ago Fortune has Ia.
vorod Lavender in a certain unpretentons quiet
way and as each succeeding year has rolled arouh"
there has been healthy growth IN business '"-
movements have Deen maue lIOIH t'"' !" ''"',' "
ri I'm its present state the place even sior'es III
paper on the walls and sawdust on the hoor'
one might pass Lavender's n dozen times a "as
and never know that such place existed lhere
are no brilliant signs on the outside ho 'o - -
,,ah,s to ottra. the hungry pedestrian. small
paInted sign dim with the dust or years appear :
on the brick wall Of the building which ihior'nf
him who stops 10 read that iobSt"rs so'''"'''
cr,hs oysters. clans and ham and eggs are served
hoe
,,or,or, and rather obscure section OF the wall a
o,sb, of four or five stone steps leads precipi'ousy
TO the region below
once inside. there are a snughess anu s'o" vi
genial hospitality which are sure 10 warh t"e
heart OF one who has to count the cost Oh ''ie ana
figure how many odd pence he can spare iron" Ms
income for such luxuries as Holsters and softshell
crohs When YOU have filed yourself TO the verge
NJ DESPAIR with fried oysters and big boiled iop-
s,or a, Iavender's YOU are more than made happy
20 lind thar vour bill Is only - cents. Everything
is neat and clean. too spotiessly entcihgy, sc-"-
pulously clean. Each day the sa"dus' WING" GOV
ers up the rough board floor looks as II II had JUST
fallen from the teeth OF round saw making It's
,.a, ,brouph a piece Of white pine. The cafe
,roner from which the kitchen opens without
swinging doors Is so small that 1t will accommo-
,,, only about n dozen eating tables, and these
are NJ all sizes and styles from an oid rouhd
,,niI, dtnng-room table that once did service IN
the home OF some old Knickerbocker 10 niue
aim four-epged table. built just for two. Ihe
chairs too are of an assorted class
When Lavender first took upon himseh 'he re-
.,orshilites of "A tenant his cafe was really "A cell
lar which he lifted up as best he knew how 10
.,,, :, homelIke and attractive to his customers.
,rho s,one walls were treated to "a coat OF white
v,sb and for "A long time this was the only dccora-
,icn until business prospered 10 su'h u" 'N''"'
that recently the whilewa|h has been coV'r'' owe.
with wallpaper. much 20 the hstoh'sh"''' anu
,,,r,,ion NJ the guests OF the house. As there
arc no windows In Layendcrs, three gas J''S al -
kent burning day and night. which furnish nor ohly
.h iyb, but also the heat for the establishments.
s n must be told that the ceiling is so 10" ana 'n
room so small that even In the coidest Gays vi
intcr these are amply sufficient TO Keep the ther
mon,c,.r ND around the eighties. The neat from
,ovo In the kitchen assists the gas-jets In their
duties of heating.
orc. , uotron OF Lavender's always a patron.
,vhv should n man 20 10 the Waldorf or Del
,,onico's for his oysters and softShelI craps whe
ne can have them at lav"nders Tor oh"-'eh'h 'n'
price with all the novelty and change OF SURROUND
lngs thrown In? To be sure. one does not nave
rankin al Iavenders; but when there are abund-
ant Holsters for 10 cents each. with good bread ana
butter and delicious fresh horseradish, or when
,he palat. can be ticked with softshell crabs for
IN, same price why should one stop 10 bother with
ronk,nsq No bill OF fare Is provided. and when
the walter who l. also the bookkeeper and COOK.
asks what YOU Will have. you are expected to be
sufficiently familiar with the dishes served TO have
your order at your tongues end. Then. over IN
tho corner behind little three-by- onc-and half
counter stands Lavender. with broad smile on his
face opening oysters and carrying on converse
tion with his guests He is always jolly and happy.
and IL - better than a cocktail TO hear his warm,
cheerful welcome And 1t Is all so neat and clean.
The tables fairly shine from the polishing and the
kpiv and forks y IL they
M 10 nut before an epicure That Is what makes
Lavender so popular. 1t gives a man an appetite
lust to gaze at the sawdust on the floor
Every morning Lavender Is up before the sun
and down at the fish market. where he buys just
enough TO last him through the day. That is an
other secret OF his success. Everything Is fresh
the day Il is served and nothing is left for the
next day. II you happen In late at night and
there has been unusual run of business In the
afternoon and early evening. you may find that the
Holsters. scallops. or crabs or CLAIMS. or what
ever It Is you want, all gone >S1it Is with the
horscradish II Is made fresh every day. and
every one who cats 1t says IT'S the finest he ever
tasted: but 1t often happens that the horseradsh
gives out before o'clock In the morning. at which
time Lavender closes his place
Famous actors. clever newspaper men, bohe-
mains colorcd people of 1.-The *o and scores OF other
interesting characters go TO lhvender's: but they
are 80 afraid of spelling the place by making 1t too
popular that there Is tacit understanding that
mono of the patrons to bring any OF their
friends there. OF course, once In while II is
done. but the neophyte Is made to swear all sorts OF
oaths as 10 secrecy before he h admitted.
No drinks served at Iavcnders; but when
hearts are glad with feeding the litte crowd whlch
gathers weekly about the old round table which has
seen better days (but none where human nature Ia
more companonable) rises and with significant
tapplngs of wel-fed stomachs. breathes softly a
toast to all good fellows In all the big round world,
even including those who dine elsewhere than at
their own beloved Lavendcrs.
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