The record-union., 1896-10-11


cts in black or dark colors are linet
with plaided taffeta silk either in gray
clan patterns or In paler shades o.
cream and violet, fawn and old rose
gray and brown, etc.
Very beautiful wedding toilets ir
Louis XIV. style are made of heavy
Wnfte MORE brocaded with white satir
flowers and foliage. The gowns are
trlmed with Honiton or point de Venis(
lace and bands of very elegant pear
passementerie, with special pieces Of
the same trimming shaped to form 6
g1rdle, epaulettes, and to cover the
fiaring Valois collar.
Changeable effects still appear amons
silks, velvets. satins. silk and wool mix
lures ETC.. notwithstanding their Ions
limit OF favorftism. Corded surfaces
also appear among very many of the
Iall novelties. these effects extending
even to ribbed velvets.
MD d'Abeille, or beehive, effects arr
SHOWN among new French goods, In al
wool, in black and colors.
The popular finish given to mutton.
leg and other sleeves close to the arm
from the elbow down is very pretty, ant
mas the advantage also of making the
hand look smaller. The sleeve is so cut
tnat at the edge Of the wrist it expand:
IKE the calyx of a flower This ex-
panded part Is finished in many ways
1t is usually Of velvet and is lined witt
pretty contrasting color in silk filIet
IN with lace, cut in tabs or points
braided or piqued with silk or satin.
RococO jewelry, Greek intaglios, Bull
sarlan silver ornaments, Norwegian sill
yer buckles. Louis XIV and XIV. min.
latures, framed in gold set with dia
mondS or pearls, Roman shoulder
clasps, and exquisitely wrought Fran.
cescan girdles and chatelaines are in
consruouSly worn with elegant even.
ing toilets Of any and every description
F'ancy belt slides and jeweled hair
neck and bodice pins are in high vogue
and rich and artistic but wonder
fully medley Of garnitures and orna.
ments are also noticed on hats. tes
gowns and French reception dresses.
New English serge and wide diagona
costumes have tucked sleeve puffs and
tucked bodices, some of the tucks edged
with very fine gold braid. Other gown:
snow the waist and skirt decorated
with rows OF mohair or Hercules braid
the bodice close fitted but seamless ir
the back, the front and back finished
with a graduated box pleat, and ther
the entire waist nearly covered with
rows of the braid out on in variou,
forms. but often Stimulating a bolerc
jacket.
The reps of the new winter yelours
are much softer and richer surfaced
than formerly, but their chief distin
gushing feature is found in the very
beautiful combination of colors eff.
fected in the weaving In notable
specimen, the repped portion is of deer
Mignonette green, the interstices Of
pale old rose. On another pattern the
cords are arranged en- baydere on g
moss ground that unites two shades o1
geranlum pink; again the reps are
Wider apart on a light silky surface
forming pretty shadow or chancellor
stripes
The skirt model cut with seven cores
gains rather than loses in favor in the
fashionable world. Just now it is 6
leading favorite. It's popularity il
largely due to the fact that it is mod
crate style, neither too full of weighty
ripples nor too scant Of breadths, anC
also that in it's general contour and eff
feet 1t proves alike becoming to stout
as to slender figures, to women tall ol
| short, and is an excellent model fol
either light or heavy materials
Many Of the new paSsementeries are
open patterned like the laceinsertions OF
the summer, and are, as a rule, with
straight edges, so that they can be ar.
ranged as insertions over bright satir
ribbon Jacket bodices are trimmed
with these passementeries and ribbons
with charming effect. The short JACKIE
effects still continue to appear, with the
much-liked variation of making then
| double breasted all or a portion Of tht
way down. Many of these jackets are
part of the waist, being attached to il
permanently, and are most often OF
wool over silk, with sometimes a plas-
tron placed at the throat covered with
| velvet