Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1896-10-04
WILL BEWAlL IT.
TIGHT SLEEVES AND TIGHTER
SKIRTS COMING IN.
PRINCESS GOWNS REVIVED.
oid-Fa.hioned FIounces, Running
Half Way Up the Skirt, Are Also
Among the Autumn Fsshso"s-
Notes
lcorresponaenee Of ths DIspatch)

CORRESPONDENCE OF tue D'rP@A~"v
NEW YORK. October 2.-There is no
doubt about It; the slender woman WI"
be at & disadvantage this winter The
sodet skirts and huge sleeves are surely
among the rapidly departing styles. and
fashion threatens to go TO the other ex-
IRENE and return TO close clinging skirts.
The new gowns are reduced to almost
,ne-balf OF the fulness that formerly
prevailed. and they fit so closely about
he hips that they viii be exceedingly
irving n very slight figures. The tight
sleeves are equally trying. and many
women are moaning over the lost fui-
ness that has been so becoming to their
extreme slenderness. The sleeves In this
transition period are o very important
part OF the dress. and although they are
chnging from wrist 10 shoulder. their
shape is wonderfully relieved by the
many devices employed TO ornament the
top. such as puffs, frills, epaulets, points,
and other trimming 10 match the bottom
Of the skirt.
while the sleeves were SO large all
women and all gowns looked much alike;
but now more individuality OF form and
more taste and skill viii be shown in new
effects in the combinations Of the silks
and woollens which will be used In the
demiseason toilets.
The skirts and bodices will be very
much trimmed with a new coarse lace,
Bulgarian. Croatian, and other embroi-
deries. in ivory or a pale cream tone. The
embroidery IL protected and relieved by
an edge Of colored braid, gold cord, or
narrow black velvet.
Yokes OF velvet covered with lace viii
be found on many Of the fall gowns. Mar
row Valenciennes lace Will be just as
popular as It has been all summer. But
tons will take a prominent part In the
trimming of the fall gowns. Some of the
skirts will have the front breadth out
lined with buttons on both sides, cores
ponding with the two rows on the dou-
ble-breasted waist. The new buttons are
very artistic, especially those modelled
from the antique.
The old bodices, that are an absolute
necessity for young and old, are pretuer
than ever. One most tastefully made is
Of black chiffon over q black or colored
silk lining. and has a chemisette and
vest Of white net. 1t has black sequin
trimming and unlined, shirred sleeves OF
black chiffon with plated frills. Deeper
frills are used for the bertha and epau-
lettes and for the basque, and gradu-
ated frill serves for the front Of the bo-
dice. The collar and belt take the tone
Of the lining Of the bodice.
Old fashioned founces are coming
back-even hounces half way up the
skirt-and they supply very graceful
way 10 renovate a black silk by fiouncing
It with silk muslin, covering the waist
and shirrng the muslin over the close,
black sleeves. using deep flounces Of the
muslin for bertha and epaulettes.
The princess gown bids fair to be ex-
ceedingly fashionable this fall and win
ter for outdoor, house, and evening wear
Some of these gowns button down each
side Of the front breadth, or are fastened
under "A belt across the front; but, as Il
rule, they are fastened under the left
arm and on the shoulder. Lace or braid
ed boleros viii be worn extensively on
the gowns fastened in this way.
A pretty princess gown for a young lad"
IS Of pale blue. and the effective tabs
about the belt and yoke a'e OF black vel
vet. fastened with silver buttons. The
yoke is OF guipure lace over blue, and
the tight shirred sleeves, with very mode
rate puffs are surmounted by particularly
pretty epaulettes, which are quite the
feature Of the gown
The sleeves are trimmed to match the
foot OF the gown with narrow black vel
vet The hat is OF black chip. with fan
o. yellowish lace on the brim, and Is
tummed with pink roses and black
bid of paradise plume.
Another princess gown is of dark gray
cltth relieved by insertions of white
cloth. The gown and sleeves are slashed
TO show the white cloth. and there are
inaumerabe loops and buttons Of black
braid.