davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

laid In shallow plaits folding toward the mid
die, both back and front. OF made quite plain.
An occasional gown had sleeves of different
material from the bodice and skirt, but
It was the rare exception. and in every
case the sleeves matched the rest Of
the gown in color. In colors the soft, dark
shades OF purple reds, violet, plum, and green
seem to be the %favorltes in new gowns and hats,
and there are as many different tInts as there
are compilations to be considered. Some OF the
pink violet shades are made very striking by n
touch Of bright apple green, and all the shaded
of yellow from orange to cream brighten up the
dark cloth dresses when red ia not desired.
Military scarlet Is seen, however, in many n
dark green, blue, or black gown, and there
Is q soft Danish carnation color which
IL very effective for a two.inch fold
down either side of a lace vest when
trimmed with a row of small gilt buttons
or banded across at intervals with three loops
Of black silk cord. One of tho models nlustrat-
ed is a blue-gray cloth gown with bodice and
sleeves of black and white striped velvet, A
bib-shaped piece Of the cloth partially coyers
the back and 'front.' where IL 10 draped In a few
small plaits on the loft side and trimmed ON the
OF embroidery. The collar band is of pale blue
velvet. Another and still moro striking COS
tune was Of changeable silk In dull %petunia red
and white, with q small scroll figure. and made
with q tucked front and two wide bands of
white satin embroidered in silver spangles
across. the upper one forming n yoke, and be-
low this on ono side is a double frili OF white lace.
A band Of the satin trims the sleeves below the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

with large bunch OF violets fastened with q
bow of helhotrope ribbon with ends was recently
seen at n funeral.
Bunches of mountain laurel may be gathered
now. II kept in n cool room In plenty OF fresh
water and occasionally treated to n bath, these
leaves will do good service nearly ali winter in
table decorating. A bunch of laurel leaves, with
half n dozen bright-colored blossoms, makes an
MISUNDERSTANDING centre piece. These leaves
are also very useful for arranging among fruit
for the centre of the table when one does hot
care to buy flowers.
Old black thread or French laces that have
become rusty and need to be freshoned may be
renovated By dipping them into weak green
tea and pressing them between newspapers on a
fiat surface. Pick out each little scallop or
point with the fingers before covering the lace
with the top paper.
Plucking fowls may DO easily and quickly 40
complished in this way: AS soon as the bird is
dead lmnerse II in n pail of very hot water. the
water to cover all the feathers. One minnie Is
usually long enough to keep the fow under hot
water; too long soaking is liable to discolor the
skin, After this hot bath tho feathers arc so
loosened that they can be almost rubbed of.
The bird Ia then rinsed in cold water and wiped
with II soft cloth. II should then DO put into n
cotton bag kept for this purpose. and hung in
acool place. When fowls ARE not to be used at
once they should always be loosely rolled In
cloth OF piper to keep them from turning dark.
Ducks cannot be managed in this way, as their
feathers contain so much oil that the wnter
does not penetrate them.
To clean white ostrich feathers, cut some pure
white soap into small pieces and pour boiling
water on them and add n little mite Of soda.
When the soap is dissolved and the water cool
enough, dip the feathers in and draw them
through the hand. Do this several times until
the lather is dirty: then make q clean lather
and repeat the operation. Afterward rinse the
feathers IN cold water. slightly blued. Pat the
feathers between the hands and shake them
over the fire until they are perfectly dry. Curl
them by drawing each fibre between the thumb
and the dull edge of n silver knife. With n little
care and patience the result will be all that can
be desired.
II metal teapots are not used for some timo
they acquire q peculiar, unpleasant odor. fire.
quently giving q disaRreeable taste to the tea
made In them. II Is said that this may be obvf-
ntcd by dropping \ lump OF sugar into the pot
when It 10 put away.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

pun. and dark red velvet forms the collar and
belt This is q very pretty style for q black
chiffon waist with jet bands instead of the
white. and a frill of black and white chiffon
combined down the side. The narrow yoke of
trimming extends across the back. and tho
chiffon is set on the edge in three tiny shirs
and drawn down plain and full into the belt.
A green velvet bodice. with green cloth skirt
and sleeves. is plain in the back and open in
front. where it Is cut out in square tabs over a
cream satin and lace vest. The entire front is
embroidered with gold and bronze beads. and
the velvet forms q rather iaring collar. begin
ming on either side over one OF lace and
satin. Blue and green changeable silk with a
vermicelli pattern In black al! over 1t 10 the
material of one OF the stylish gowns worn at
the Horse Show In the evening. The skirt is
plain, and the bodice has . very narrow yoke
back and front and q collar of cream satin COW
cred with lace. The fulness In tho back Is
gathered in three heavy cords where It fastens
on to the yoke. and tho full front opens on one
side. where 1t loops across the frill Of lace.
which begins with two full ends in the pun of
the right sleeve, and is carried across the edge
and down tho side. A plum-cloth gown shows
an odd rever turning away from the front in o
straight line. faced with plum-and-white
checkered silk, and another rever of en-
broidered plum velvet falling over tho loft
side. A gray-and-white striped silk has
q yellow chiffon vest. with a yellow satin
belt and rosette bow. The sides are tucked
crosswise In groups OF three with a band of lace
insertion between. and tiny jewelled buttons
fasten the tucks down on the front edge, while
tucks and one row OF insertion form the yoke
effect at the back. A novel bib front. back. and
epaulets OF cloth embroidered on tho edges. is
q stylish model. and one of tho very smart
gowns worn in the afternoon is Of dark blue
cloth with three graduated bands Of blue vel
vet on the skirt. The odd bolero Is also of vel
vet, the sleeves Of cloth. and the under bodice
of green chiffon. held In by q band and tapering
points OF jet. Pale gray cloth, which. like black.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

The little bonnets and toques with the high,
small crowns are very popular, and some OF
them have fluted brims. which are very becom-
Ing. One curious little hat OF black velvet with
the high crown has II brim made entirely of
square tabs OF green velvet on one Side and
The trimming Is cream lace. cream white
aigrettes. and paradise plume. White ostrich
feathers ars very much worn in evening hats
and hornets. and combined WIN line lace and
black velvet the effect is decidedly more ele-
CANT than any color.
Embroidered colured Nelvets and satins are
used for tho crowns of the small evening hats,
with feathers, bows OF ribbon, and fancy orna-
ments for the finish. Huge buckles are set In
front Of the high-crowned. wide rir.med hats,
and one of these in black velvet has u turquoise
and rhinestone buckle. and a stylish bow of
blue and black striped ribbon with some black
tips. A pretty little togue for afternoon wear
is Of violet and rose red velvet. mingled in soft
plated frills. and has u bunch uf violet feathers
standing up on one side of the front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15
HATS AT THE HORSE SHOW.
Breadth, Height. and Audacity Added tc
Their style Since Last Season.

Breadth, Height. and Audacity Added to
Their Style Since Last Season.
The most striking feature of fashion at the
Horse Show was seen In the hats, which have
added breadth. height, and audacity to their
style since last season. When the hat is large
It is very large, and the toques are anything but
small. Breadth seems to be the effect most
sought after. and the Gainsborough hat is here
again with its abundant feathers and becoming
shape. Other large hats are rolled on one side
or both sides alike, and trimmed with plumes or
cocks feathers, spreading out on either side
like rams horns. Hats for morning wear were
OF felt in green. brown. blue, or black. and
trimmed with a band and bow ofchauge-
able MORE ribbon and stiff wings.
The more glorifed felt hat Is bright red with
red ribbon and ostrich feathers to match, and
appears in the evening. Dressy felt hats. too,
have soft crowns OF embroidered satin or velvet,
and are trimmed very deliberately with lace and
feathers. Black velvet and cream lace make
the most useful combination for n hat or q
toque. as 1t is sure to look nice II the lace is fine
and not too dressy.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

enough to establish them In favor for at least
one moro short season. but the really up-to-
date gown had sleeves. or n part of the bodice,
or both Of the Same material as the skirt. Vel
vet waists with cloth skirts are worn. but they
match the skirts In color. which Is usually dark,
and the universal cream lace over white satin
forms tho vest. Revers appear in various
shapes. tiny and narrow. short and wide. on the
full bodices and coat waists alike. hut those Of
the latest cut have SQUARE or curved corners
and the sharp pointed triangle Is rarely seen.
One striking costume OF dark red cloth has an
entire bodice and sleeves of cream white silk
dotted here and there with steel beads and fin
iphed with one red velvet revere tapping over
the left side, and . red velvet collar. Cream
lace draped over white satin forms another
waist worn with q black velvet skirt, and tho
sleeves are slightly shirred over the white lin
ing and finished with three lace frills at the
top. Black and white combinations make up
some of the most elegant gowns of fashion this
season, and they are worn by young women
IS we'll as the more matronly wo-
mon Of uncertain ages. Telvets. MORO
poplins, MORE silks with satin btocade figures,
and plain smooth-faced cloths are the prevailing
fabrics used in black. and one of the most strik-
ing gowns at the Horse Show was of black
cloth. with q wide full vest Of white satin. wide
square-shaped revers, and belt OF white en-
broidered with jet and silver beads. while an
other gown Of black velvet had a full vest Of
cream lace over white. n fall OF wide lace edge
on either side giving the effect of draped revers,
and two circular frills of velvet. lined with
white satin. at the top Of the close
sleeve. Colored v~elvets. embroidered all
over in Jet and gold or silver are decid-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15
FRILLS OF

Violets reigned supreme for corsage bouquets
1T the Horse Show. and huge punches OF these
modest little blossoms were fastened on MANY
a handsome gown. There 10 q fragrance and
a subtle refinement about violets which no
other flower possesses. and they are worn I'm the
afternoon and evening with equally good taste.
No one style of hairdressing prevailed among
the fashionably dressed women. but the pompa-
dour effect in front. with u soft knot fitting up
close to the hat in the back. seemed to lead.
Tucks of various widths. crosswlse or up and
down. decorate some of the bodices, cover the
lower portion of the sleeve. and are set In n
Tucks form the yoke OF simple silk waists. and
bodices of thin material. as well as those OF
Liberty velvet, are covered with tiny tucks.
Beaded and embroidered trimmings In shades
of light blue, pink, mauve, gold, and green are
In greater variety than ever. and appear In
various degrees of elegance and extravaganza
in evening, afternoon, and morning gowns. One
of the recent reviyhls IL tho buRle bead. which
comes In every color, and 10 a very e1octive ele-
ment of the new trimmings. Old-tashioned
China ribbon IN the narrow width has come
back again, and Is used for embroidering sprays
with gold and silver thread and Roman pearls.
Fancy velvets and fine velveteens with small
crushed patterns are used for blouse waists.
sleeves, and bodice trimmings generally. and a
novelty In fancy velvet has . chine silk ground
covered with IL scant velvet pile, or scattered
which produce a lovely sheen and wonderful
blending of cOlors.
MORE effects in silk, wool, and velvet, are
decidedly the thing this season. and all the new
Powered silks have a MORE ground. Faills in
o.d-time patterns with stripes and broche
pompadonr bouquets. Is very much worn, and
brocadc silks woven with II msta llic thread are
revived, for evening clOaks especially.
Among the new pettlcoats Is ono Of shot silk,
with q wide tlounce striped with black Ruipnre
iRSsrttsA. ank bralding In . contrasting SS1Or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15
HINTS FOR TIE household.

When making down pillows, wax the inner
covering, and then the down will not be able TO
work through the two covers. To do this. iron
the wrong side of tho tick with Il hot latirou
rubbed with beeswax. rubbing the iror. over the
wax each time before putting IL on the cloth.
A French cook says that when raw potatoes
are TO be cut into long strips to be fried In boil
ing fat. II the potatoes are cut u quarter of an
inch In thickness and slantingwlse they will
cook better and be more pufy.
A beautiful and unusual table decoration at a
recent dinner was antique silver candelabra
resting upon large mats made OF hcllotrope
satin covered with waves of tulle. .Bunches of
English viOlets nestled here and there in the
tulIe and the edges OF the SATIN were hidden
with u wreath OF ylolets and their green leaves.
III fragrant carnations are again q favorite
flower for decorations. but they are not ar
ranged In a close mass as formerly. Quantities
or their own spikelike leaves arc now mixed
with the blossoms, giving an entirely different
effect. The pink carnations are particularly
handsome with their own gray-grccn foliage.
The unusual seems to be desired for funeral
emOlems AS well as table decorations. Wreaths
and CROSSES made OF tho spiky carnatlon leaves
ma the Drlght-hued blossoms put loosely In
Iero and there are much used. a wreath made
OF beautiful gray lichen and finished At one side
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

edly o popular dress decoration. and they are
arranged in all sorts OF bolero designs. odd
revers, bands, and belts, In pretty contrast with
the rest Of the gown, or quite matching II in
color. Bodices with the pouch in front are
quite as popular as ever. but there is only a
slight fulness, and not enough to overhang the
belt. The crossed-over or ~surplice effect is seen
on some o: the gowns. folded to lap just q little
at the belt over q fancy vest. or fastened at one
side from the narrow yoke down, and finished
with frills OF lace or chiffon. or with folds Of
bright velvet showing between the edges.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

Although the new skirts are decidedly dlmin-
isned In proportions, the godet plaits are s,ill
seen al the back, but not at all in front. The
smaller skirt brings trimmings In Its wake. and
bands of fur and velvet ribbon are set on In
rows diagonally across The front, or to form .
deep point In front commencing on the hips.
Bands OF fur and velvet trim other skirts
around the bottom. but one OF the latest novel;
Ties in skirts is made separate from the silk lin
Ing. except at the top, gathered IN at the band
slightly all around with more fullness at the
hack. and again about two inches below on a
\large cord. 1t is hemmed at the bottom. and
kne pretty gray gown made in this way has u
llustre of tucks above the hern edged with mar
dow cream lace. The silk lining 10 sIifensd .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15
A. Simonson,
1913 BROADWAY, N. Y.
bet. eIsT d aeD SIS.
For the opera and Theatre your
RIG NAT WILL GO

For tho Opern and Theatre your
BIG HAT WILL GO
for your comiort aud for those who Sit behind you:
but a handsome
COIFFURE
Will, aud must take It's place. You cannot AFFORD TO
look like the year one. Your hair ought 10 be ar.
ranged In tho latest style, and a few beautiful
HAIR OR Ta
taitefully arranged upon your head VIII mora than
compcnsateN YOU for your big hat.
Can at my establishment and we Will he sbl. m
show you an exquisite assortment for the above
couture. same viii be a pleasure to you and n COM.
fort TO others,
a. SIMONsON.
0ao 2lST N 2sD SITS.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15
SOME OLD KENTUCKY PEOPLE.
Mrs. Hancock Buried with Her Pipe mt the
Age OF IO6-AC oupl. Married 40 Years.

LEXINGTON, ny, Nov. l4.-Mrs. Alkaline
Hancock, the oldest resident of Mercer county.
is dead at her home near Cove Springs. She
was born in Virginia on Christmas Day. 1900.
and was therefore in her lO6th year. She had
lived in Mercer county more than ninety years.
She was an invctcrate smoker, and a few mo-
ments before passing away enjoyed a smoke.
The pipe ST." used Was buried with her. She
had lived Tor many years with her daughter,
Mrs. Gallagher. who Is 40.
Near III" hradwaters of Rockhouse Branch. in
Knott county, llvts james Arden WalfenhergeR
and mis- wife Dolly. Uncle Jimmie as he Is
called. was born in Culpeprr county. Va. on
Nov. =. 100. and aunt Dolly WAS born in Hall
fax county. Va. on Dec. ~. 1906; consequently
Uncle jimmie Viii bc lOl and Aunt Dolly 100
years old this year. Iney were married in lSl7
and emtGratrd to Knott county in 1890. Nine
Teen children, ton boys and nine girls, have been
born to them, but ali are dead, Two OF the boys
were killed in the Union army and two In the
Confederate army. They have twenty grand
children, hfty grcut-grandrhildren, and seventy
five great great grandchildren living. Nearly
all lLeir descendants llveln Virginia, Tennessee,
and kCntucky within u radius of fifty miles. and
AN EFFORT viii be made to have "A reunion OF this
remarkably large family on Christmas Day.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

small collet of sealskin. and all of them lave
high Medici collars. ExtravaRant decorations
OF cream lRce-which must be- fine to be- effective
and beaded passementeries are added to some
of these elegant CONNECTIONS. Very fancy little
edge and finished all around with lace.
The NSgdntes Of Paris have taken to washing
their hair with parafine, which Is u splendid
cleanser and takes the place of water, but pre-
cautions are necessary on account OF its infam-
mable nature.
The season for church soclables in country
towns is here again. and the search after some
unique and orthodox method of attracting the
members into this moneymaking scheme has
begun. The Photographic social seems to be the
latest, and every lady Is requested TO bring u
photograph of herself taken in childhood. These
are all shufiied together. and rs each gentleman
draws one he is expected To guess the original,
aud rejoice in paying for her supper.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

is never out OF fashion. forms some of the pref
tiest of the new gowns. and gray chiffon with
white satin hands embroidered with silver like
the model is the dainty waist Of one gown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

is used to trim other r%ufies, and three. four. or
I'VE narrow hounces cut out in SQUARE tnbs.
bound around with black velvet Ribbon. and
overlapping each other, offer another mode OF
trimming petticoats.
Repped fabrics In a mixture OF silk and wool
are among the latest importations OF dresa
goods. and n new material, called poll do chAyre.
which Is very smooth and glossy, 10 being made
up into dressy gowns.
Gold-linked chains are worn around the waist
over sable and Persian lamb jackets.
ShagRy-haired vicuna cloths which resemble
the AngorR shawls of long ago are made uuinto
gowns for midwinterw wear.
A new invention In the way of imitation chin
chilla IL snid to be n great success. especially In
narrow bands for trimming and IN the matter
of price.
The new shades In gloves arc pearl. cham
payne, gray, mushroom, and tan, and very light
tints OF these colors are worn In the evening
Plaid silk stockings arc worn with black house
gowns and low shoes.
Waists of cream white crepe de chine, tucked
crosawise back and front and around the
sleeves, and made full and loose to overhang a
narrow belt OF gold galloon, are very stylish. and
one OF these worn at the Horse SHOW had van
dyke lace pointing up from the belt all around
and was fastened on the shoulder and under
the arm, leaving the tucks unnroken across tho
front. Other waists Of this variety arc fastened
up the back.
All sorts Of collars. pelerines, and small shout
der capes of fur are worn this season. and they
are made of seal. mink. cable, grebe, and chin
chilla alone. or In q combination of any two
kinds. Grebe or chinchilla Is rufled onto q
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

ShagRy-haired vicuna cloths which resembl,
the AngorA shawls of long ago are made up iutC
gowns for mid winter wear.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

Gold-linked chains are worn around the waist
over sable and Persian lamb jackets.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

A new invention In the way of imitation chin
chilla IL said TO be n great success, especially In
marrow bands for trimming and IN the matter
of price.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

Plaid silk stockings arc worn with black house
gowns and low shoes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

about clothes which have been perplexing the
feminine mind for weeks before. Whether or
not there is any truth In tho statement that
the horses are the element Of the show which
has the least attention, 1t Is very evident that
the gorgeous costumes created for this gala
week absorb the greatest amount Of interest.
Women anxious to DO first in the field
with the latest modes in gowns and
hats lead the procession Of elegant at
tire on the outside Of the ring. while the
shining horses. all unconscious of their rivals.
prance about inside for the entertainment Of
tho few who deign to give them q passing
glance. All the isolated cases of Indifference In
regard to dress are stimulated to action BY this
ANIMAL show of new gowns. and 1t may be
encouraging to those who wish to profit by
this display to know that everything In the way
Of materials was represented. Velveta. silks,
velveteens. smooth-faced cloths. and inexpen-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-15

sive wool stuffs. deliberately decorated with
lace-jewelled trimming and embroidery. jostled
each other as they passed. and all the colors of
the rainbow. with possibly red in the ascendant.
added brightness TO this panorama of fashion.
The most noticeable feature Of difference be-
tween this seasons modes and those OF last
year is in the skirts and sleeves. which show
30 much less fullness. The close sleeves with a
short hanging puff or epaulette frills. lined
with satin of a contrasting color. are the pre-
vailing style In the newest gowns. But there
are no end of methods for reducing tho sleeve.
and anything which has some sort of q small
pun at the top and close fitting below Is in or
der. Short ends OF lace euginR are caught in
with the puff in some gowns, and ono very
stylish gown worn at the Horse Show on OPEN
ing night had lace draped in with the right
pun only and carried across tae front to finish
the narrow yoke of lace-covered satin and down
tho left eide in a point where the bodice fast
ened Over 1t with three black cords. Shirred
sleeves are tho rule in chiffon. net. and thin
waists of any kind. but they are always relieved
by tho puff or a series Of lace-edged narrow
frills at the top.