New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-08-23

usual straight front and side breadhs In the skirt
The back breadths Of the skirt circular and per-
fecty fiat over the hips and below the waist In the
back. In front the sides of the apron and side
breadths held by three straps OF the stuff fastened
by small cloth buttons. Below the skirt hardly
flares. but simply makes necessary funess The
jacket waist reaches only TO below the bust and Is
cut into points that Joined by buttoned straps
The high belt in this instance IN OF back leather
about eight inches wide. fashioned TO follow the
curves OF the figure and with four buckled straps on
one side The wastcoat IL of white null. much
tucked. and the novel effect is the cravat Of
tucked null that lies about the choker In the man
ner OF four-in-hand tie with handkerchief ends
down the front This novel cravat really consists
Of the handkerchief ends. They are a feature OF
several smart toilets
Though the blouse Of fancy silk and elaborate
design has entirely disappeared feature OF
modish wardrobe the separate bodice In the shape
OF an elaborate Jacket is still made even II
coutureres speak little Of 1t; It may not be out
OF place 70 describe OF brocaded lavender
SILK The Jacket Is Of the period Of Louis XIV revers,
and rufied skirt and. indeed entire jacket are
bound with narrow black velvet. The vest Is
simple affair OF white silk null. The waistband Is
Of black velvet. high the vest passing through
the sides OF the garment and making narrow
ceinture in the back The touch OF black In sash
and bindings makes the novelty of the garment.
Bradings Of silk or mohair are conspicuous; and
although bradlng has been seen for several sea-
sons the present Of It Is heralded as novelty
For instance jacket suit OF huntsman green
cloth lined with pale blue silk. has about the bot
tom Of the skirt and extending up the front side
seams. an elaborate pattern. done In black SIX
braid. The bradlng is really embroidery. for 1t
is all done by hand. and one may feel under the
cloth the thread Of braid passing from one TO the
other knot in the patterns one Is often prone to
feel that there is an undue value put on a Paris
lu. uhan handWOrk
where else is 1t as well done The very irregularity
of an embroidery done by hand has artistic
beauty that Is not possible In manufactured trim
mings.
The Jacket is braided sleeves and all, the pattern
being heavy about the edges. and ending ip twisted
knots. done by the braid. The jacket Is without
revers and IS cut with round sides that fit the
figure 1t ends below the waist In a short ruihe
only full enough TO show glimpses Of the blue I'M
ing The sleeve is tight and plain TO the shoulder,
where it wi1ens to make some funess
Narrow black velvet ribbon Is used extensively at
present for trimming both light SIX and clo'h
gowns In one instance II Is arranged in basket
wea,e, the squares between the ribbon being hiled
in by lacework OF black threads. This trimming Is
used effectively on an autumn suit Of Hight gray
broadcloth. covering the cuffs, revers ana hleh
straight collar OF the boiero jacket The waistoand
made of yellow and whie plaid SIX null me COIL
blnation or materials and colors is charming. me
handkerchief ends described in a previous gown: IN
this case the ends are edged by an em9roi1sy o.
lace figures plain white silk null Inc Skirt y
very ouiS Tu, dorn ,cb edge Of the apron ana
down each edge Of the side breadtAs. THESE pea's
waist iine and lnen left free. They do not fare at
peatS forming the front and sides OF the skirt the
pieats that lie perfectly het the top.
Narrow rows Of back velvet are USED on eVF fs
I've with mlny runles edged with the line Of black
skirt of pink brocaded silk Win llnei OF o H"'T NJ
it has c6rsage OF pink mousseline DE sore I'M dne
stuff il beautifully pleated, not In me usual sharp
Gior12n n sd' been n USED to make peas
The waves go up and down in the blouse ana are are
sleeves are rufs Of plain mous-ene de soe eigGd
with Morrow black velvet and the litte square deGol-
dc sole and upright oops q narrow black veiye' h
Some gowns trimmed with rows OF .atn ~ nap o..
one ~ sIoi an M x,2emeiv pretty and very simple rim
ming and the dres-makors are beginning 10 use II
But 10 return to autumn modes A gown gov. n for
in nice shade Of I'd The front Dr rcru LACE
dr,res and The stuff Is arranged in three rows
OF lcngthwise tncking on eacn ssGe Vi TIE
Exit is dat over the hips and in The back like the
models previously described the b0Hs Of dn
green has wings Of lace under the ears ne STUN
The sleeves are gigot in shape Win the I duJf rb
running around them They ere long ana "s"'
within few inches or me SioNi"'
some "chic" yachting suits have been sent 10
Cnwns this week from Paris. ana even the time
worn blue serge with white braid lace appeared lH
novel effects. IT..
one blue serge has on side Of the skirt a
panel with crossway strips of inch-wide Whlte
braid almost covering IT, An anchor l. emnroidere9
in navy blue silk the apron near ne waist ana
a It'll, on one side. The Jacket Is stralght, aiter
fha eacduc pattern with sailor collar ana reVers
faced with white cloth. The collar meets over
the bust and fastens with soft cravat OF whl'e
SILK The jacket falls open below the collar. show
"a navy blue wool with hair-ines of white in Il
+ trimmed with plain blue cloth embroidered with
narrow white braid The embroidered cloth makes
a band about the bottom OF the skirt; the heh
into deep sh; ~ points in front ana extends over
the sleeves In wings.
The sailor collar seems popular on these gowns,
Redfcrn has a navy blue serge with a rounded
sailor collar of white pique Above the collar Is
dainty chemseftc Of white null The blouse bodice
is laid I'm hngcr-deep tucks all about the hgure.
and four deep tucks added 70 the top OF the
tight sleeves. which finished by turnover Gun
OF pique The skirt l. extremely narrow ana close
ntting with two fiat tucks down each side OF the
front breadth. high belt OF white leather Is
worn.
II Is trife early yet TO speak of outside wraps.
The couturiercs are sending TO the watering
places elaborate capcs Of silk. velvet. lace ana
mousseline de sole. and smart-fitted Jackets for
more practical use The latter are rarely seen
but that fitted Jackets will be popular during the
coming season. and the coutureres hint that as
sleeves are small enough to allow OF fitted over
garment and capes have been worn so long. there
is possibility that many wraps Of velvet and fur
will take the Jacket coat form. Still. at the
fur shops they are making a number Of capes.
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