The San Francisco call., 1896-03-22

made to conform through change of ma
terial, color and trimming to desirable
toilette for a woman OF mature years,
either in black or colored silks, plum color
mohair or foulards in mixed colors.
During the past week several good dresses
were noted at Del Monte. One of black
mohair, made with plain skirt, had an
Eton jacket with deep collar OF revers OF
embroidered grass linen, of which the
blouse was also composed; deep cuffs
matched the revers. A black satin ribbon
encircled q pretty waist and ended in
well-tied bow.
A gray serge dress, with collars, cuffs
and waistcoat of cadet blue cloth, was well
made The coat was rather long; belt
crossed the back and then vanished. A
stylish English walking hat of dark blue,
with two dark blue qullls, was worn. A
tourist appeared in a tailor suit of new
weave of cloth, dark blue in color, relieved
only with a thread-like braid of gold, six
rows of which were in the collar,
and the little waistcoat was very
prettily embroidered with it. The
smallest gold buttons imaginable gave
the finishing touch. The dress was
around the bottom of the skirt were trim.
mings OF silk which changed from blue
to orange. Such simple frock, but one
that cost Just $15O. Indeed we have to pay
well for style and finish. At last there is
marked tendency to do away with the odd
waist for street and travelling wear,
although very numerous are the fancy
ones worn at home and in the evening.
A chestnut haired girl last evening was
picture good to look at in a bodice of
pale-gray silk, which was crossed with the
gayest of plaid stripes in green, red, blue
and yellow; her skirt was of the same
shade of gray as the ground of the waist.
A soft collar of crimson velvet finished the
neck, and the elbow sleeves had small
roll of velvet around them.
Easter is coming, so may remark for
the benefit of those who intend to purchase
new dancing or full-dress slippers that the
insteps are to be trimmed with rather
small bows, prettily beaded. In patent
leather the Butcher tie has wide ribbon
bow. Oxhide is being used for house shoes
and they are lined with curled lambs
wool.
In Paris wells of rose pink with peach
dots are to be seen and also dotted colored
net yelling in brown, yellow and blue.
White wells of all sorts and kinds are in
demand, and all Paris has become en-
thusi astic over the big hats trimmed with
white and colored tulle. Alas, we shall
only be able to wear such hats out OF San
Francisco unless we can afford fresh tulle
every time we encounter fog or cloud
of dust, so for those who remain in the
City much during our windy season l al
wavs recommend smart, chic, compact
hats, which cannot act as dust traps, and
eschew feathers. Those who attended the
first openings of the most fashionable mil
liners were, as the boys say, "in luck" for
an unusually excellent collection of hats
were in view. / saw sufficient to be able
to say that the hats selected showed on
the whole good taste, all styles having
been consulted for one dream of a chapeau
worthy of Virot was gay with exquisite
flowers, and choux OF tulle nestled here
and there. Its next door neighbor was a
quaint Quakerish hat in an entirely new
weave OF straw, and on 1t were flowers OF
the softest mauvre shades; the osprey
gave the necessary tone of color, being
black And speaking of subdued shades
reminds me that it is conceded this season
is to be Quakerish one, as numerous are
to be the gowns in grays, tans and browns.
To return to my subject, have observed
that bonnets will be very broad round the
face, for we are to wear our hair la POM
padour, and wreaths of roses minus their
foliage are among the novelties, and violets
are seen as much as ever by themselves,
nesting among their cool green leaves, and
also com bined with roses.
The fancy straws are very numerous,
and are woven or run with gay-colored
ribbons or chenille, and be sure, girls, to
SeleCb your udtS uTSI, tuSu your SONHS
that are to go with them, as they are really
the first consideration. and if you can only
afford to spend $lS or $25 in headgear, Sc
cure one good hat, instead OF two or three
| nondescript affairs. There has been an
idea out here that in New York hats can
be had much more reasonably than out
here. This is positively absurd, for a sim
pie stylish hat of brown straw, with two
bows of soft brown satin RIB and good
cocks feather in shaded browns and
blacks. is considered very reasonable in
New York for SIG, and Of course this hat is
suitable for unceremonious occasions only.
| More dressy ones cost from $26 upward.
| This l quickly discovered when last in
New York, for on pricing simple black
chip hat with large bow OF black satin
| and little good lace, l was promptly in
formed by the milliner. who. by the way,
was not quite one of the sweIlest in that
city, that she could let me have it for $24,
and absolutely could not even trim me
plain white sailor with q blue ribbon and
two quills for less than $16. SO since then l
have fully believed the Eastern woman
who declared that she could purchase i'm