The evening times., 1896-11-19
TENS FASHIONS.
Difference Accentuated Between the
STYLES for r1aster ard Man.

There will be no excuse this winter for
even the most shurt-sigbted country cousin
| mistaking the immaculate butler for his
host; a great gulf, in the form OF a waist
coat, has lately been set between master
and man. HencefOrth, when the now dem
ocratic evening dress is assumed, the gem
tleman buttons down over his starched
white bosom an elegant underbody of white
silk OF satin, splendidly embroidered
For this last fashion the Prince OF Wales
stands sponsor and the American dandy,
whois a little timid in assuming brocaded
satin waistcuat can, if he likes, cling u
an evening to unStarChed, very fine white
| piuuet, embellished with fine Towering
vines, embroidered in white linen. The
four buttons for this must be plain polished
white pearl, moderately large, but with
the satin waiStcOat he must indulge ia
round, flat, frosted gold studs. II he Is
a club .man, very up-to-date in the best
London fashions, his shirt front will show
itself to he laid in one central box pleat
with two broad single pleats folding toward
il from either side. The armure silk waist
coat over this will have fine hairline dots
or little figures OF satin in it and be cut
in very deep shape.
In one walstcUat pocket lie VIII carry
his watch, and this pocket has small
flap, while his collar will be moderately
high with no turnover points, but nearly
meeting in 'front.' Small narrow lawn
rather expansive bow, as well as the big
square cuffs with very close link buttons
and linen tabs, that button over in the
center with studs.
If details OF the evening toilet are in
vestigated it will be found that the ex-
tremely well dressed man still uses the
same cut of dress suit worn last year,
but his hosiery is as delicate as wo-
mans. black silk or Isle open work, with
fancifully embroidered black silk clocks,
and his handkerchief is a big square of
linen, narrowly hemstitched. In one cor
ner a small script initial is inclosed in a
fine ring of embroidery and all the mas
culine linen, by the way, is daintily sug-
gestive of Lavender.
Until II o'clock gray trousers, rough
blue sack coat, held with three buttons,
brown buttoned shoes and a black derby
hat is the suitable array for gentleman
Of leisure. After he gets into his walking
Coat. 4 black cutaway, at in the afternoon
"A darker shade Of gray trousers. frock coat
and top hat are proper, while after he is
custumed for the evening. His top hat is for
this winter very wide in the brim with an
emphatically bell crown. The morning tie
iSdra awnintua tandem knot, piece OfmiXed
green and brown surah and his long after
noon top coat, called a Chesterfield. is
made Of vicuna cloth and cut To emphasize Il
slender waist and wide shoulders. All Of
q shows that as the American woman.
with certain reservations patterns her style
after that OF the smart Z PariSienne the Ameri-
can club man takes his British brother for a
model.
For example, whiteSpats in the afternoon
are used with patent leather shoes and
laced shoes are ont o II mOmentary popularity,
good with plenty OF paper and pencils,
has been resigned for rather delicate
staff. topped with carved ivory and silver.
This is English. too. and the stick, by the
way. used when turning clubward in the
morning is 4 very different affair from the
elegant wand that accompanies the top hat
and gloves into a lady'S dra wing room.
The stick to be used when calling is n
long, slender, highly lacquered one, sur
mounted by small dull gold knob wherein
initials are engraved, or even a coat of
arms etched in miniature. Nothing ecceu-
tricin shape. or G We elaborate is made, AMI
for afternoon teas the palest of pearl colorcd
suede gloves, stitched in white and caught
with three bullet buttons are only in good
taste
BY men who dress with as ca reful an
eye to dignity us effect, iewelry is most
spariDgly used. Scarf pins have been
almost abolished, and if worn at all, are
-hrust in so that the fancy bead rests any
where but in the center of the knot. A
small star sapphire. N ash pearl, or some
colored jewel, cut cabochOn shape, small
and not surrounded with diamonds, have
the preference
The smartcst OF evening cuff buttons arc
ovals of hard. white enamel. with a white
brilliant set in the center of each oval, and
studs to match. though with the plcated
bosoms studs are not used and no watch chain
ever appears after p. m.
FANNY ENDERs.