The herald., 1896-10-25
GOTHAM GOSSIP.

Spr,ne.tme AID flowers. They arr bloom
ing m soundaIce On tie new spring hats
ss well Sz In The gardens. Velvet and silk
flowers On hats, though fer naturalness one
can scarcely tel! the difference between
them and the garden cosics. Crest velvet
roses. 10 the most beautiful Of gorgeous
shades, huge chrysenthsmums IN velvet
s.sc, big enough to fill ell one side Of the
aa,. are wonderfully swagser.
A charming little hat ! must tell you
about is perfectly Iat as to brim, with a
cw, oval cyH1n, naade OF twisted yellow
Tuscan straw. Acout the fancy edge is
Sc. a narrow piping OF white satin. with an
outstanding friil Of straw lace as q finish.
At each asar are hugh ohrysanthemums Of
brilliant yollow. shading to rose pink.
Folds Of sxtin trim the crown whare the
big fiowcrs do not cover, and a twisted
nsndeau OF ross pink velvet Tits the hat
up q. one side. FIower3 are lavished upon
tho hats by the dozen; even the biggest OF
rosns are used in this way.
chic little Easter hat has rather high
oval crown Of course black straw, with q
parrow rolling brin. faced with rosy violet
velvet, laid on very smoothly. A wreath
OF velvet morning giories, in all their va
riety of colors, spreads around the hat, and
liz punched into heaps at the sides. Two
.sll, spiky. wings OF black stand bolt up
ngh. at one side.
Scarcely a hat but has bandeau OF
greater or less width. to givo the air Of
jauntiness SO much desired. Sometimes
this is made Of twisted velvet, sometimes Of
lace, with knot to droop on tho hair. and
often Of flowers.
Lace Is feature Of much of the new
millinery. Never pure white lace, but the
soft tints Ia gray and brown, looking 80
much like rare old heirlooms. Blacl lace
Is less in evidence. Feathers are but little
,ised at present. Probably they arc held
In reserve for the later summer headgcar.
by way Of change. The only way in which
feathers are used is 10 the form Of feather
borders, to be used On the edges Of the hat
brtm.
Floral EarnitureS arc very much In evi-
denco on all the hats. They are perfect
gardens OF bloom, all alive with color. The
flowers arc SO genuinely natural looking
it seems odd to think they are really arti-
fetal. But such they are. Paste gems are
used to large extent, and are very clever
limitations. Emeralds, rubiee, pearls, tur-
quoise and rhinestones abound in all sorts
of shapes, and afford splendid flush to
millinery.
A mcst chic hat Of white Neapolitan
tossed up at the back, has for its trim
ming a full scarf of yellow lace. drawn
toward the back, and there fastened in q
big bow, with ends to trail over the hair
A big bunch Of deep pink roses lies fatty
on tlre brim toward the front, and another
smaller bunch is under the brim on the rose
velvet bandeau. fitting the hat little
at one side. Ribbon ties and scarfs of lace
are seen on many of the daintiest hats
Their wearing is optional, but they are
really an addition, and usually very be-
coming, especially the broad. fluffy strings
Broad ties will be a feature of the com
ing sumer hats when made of shirred null
as so many are to be. null In pale colors
as we'll as white.
A fetching gown Of plum colored broad
cloth Is we'll worth describing. The skirt
Is immensely wide and full Of plaits and
flutes. 1t has lining Of crisp moss green
silk finished by lot of dust ruffles at the
foot. The jacket bodice is made to fit
perfectly tight, and Is covered smoothly
with coarse web lace in a soft gray tint
Ripples Of lace set out atop of ripples Of
moss green velvet. and narrow belt Of
green velvet finishes it at the belt.
There are big revers Of lace and droop-
ing blouse vest Of lace. caught down at
the sides by big jeweled buttons. A far
ing collar of green velvet finishes the
throat. The sleeves are of plum color In
wrinkled mousquetaire style, very much
pointed at the waist ana edged with .
deep frill Of lace. oTs'~ss'
Every cne is full of the delights of the
uCWuCo6 VI CNSIythih6 az 1IoSeSA SAAASs uo
freshness Of the spring air, the newly bios
somed flowers. the budding trees. and laAt
but not least, the new hats and gowns.
There is no use in denying it, every genuine
woman's heart Is open to the influences Of
pretty new clothes. logged out In her
dainty Easter finery, the whole world seems
O much brighter place to her than 1t did
when wearing her old gown and passe hat.
She is full of the delights of being
well gowned. and full of the anticipations
Of lovely things to be worn all summer. It
II hard to know just where to begin to tell
about oil the fascinating new things shown
for Easter wear. To begin with hats. that
all important item Of the Easter costume.
Never before were there so many exceeding
~ lovely designs, such delicacy and airi-
neea. The Gtraws are bewilderment OF
daintiness in all the shades of yellow, rang
ing from the palest cream to the deepest
burnt tint.
There are two varieties of straw very
much In favor, one with a satin-smcoth sur
face. in which can hardly be seen an In
dentation. The other Is in great loose
punches Of loops an inch long, caught into
clusters. In black and dark-colored straws
quite open work and extremely pretty.
With a colored facing Of silk or velvet the
effect is very fetching.
As Is always the case early In the season,
small hats obtain very generally; toQues.
turbans and rolling brimmed shapes OF
many different sorts are in vogue. Later
on We shall have the much beloved and
always picturesque picture" hat. but for
the present We must be content with the
small chapeau. A smart little turban of
stsm green straw = tossed up ct both aides
with clusters Of violets and knots Of yellow
Lace failing In soft ends on the hair. 4
landau q violet velvet tilts the hat ct one
elds. and = run through numbse q smsr-