New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-09-08
sidge ends the palisade Of gray and black cliffs.

Ridge ends, the pasade Of gray and black cliffs,
background Of sloping hillsides, grassy downs
and lovely woodland II extends beyond Clovelly
TO Hartland Point. Such IL the Devon coast
from Ilfracombe to the borders Of Cornwall. the
cIHs becoming higher and more precipitous
ana the scenery wilder and grander as Lands
End is approached
From llfracombe to Hartland Point the most
prominent object seward is the little granite
island OF Lundy. which stands sentry off the
entrance to Bristol Channel. II is in plain sight
from every headland and combe and is a favor
lite goal for excursion parties under steam or
sail. Its cliffs are rugged and precptous and
on the western side is the wild chasm Of the
Devils Limekiln. with Sir Amyas Leieh's Shut
ter Rock blocking UP Its mouth. over this scene
OF desolation gulls and gannets are constantly
fiuttering and swoopng down upon the troubled
waters The island is in a sea Of darker
blue than is see, inshore and the cooring
of the vegetation is deeper and fresher OF
purple heather there is no lack in the high ia
be-lands used fo- rasturage. and the wild flow
ers are luxurant IN growth and brilliant in hue
The island has miscellaneous stock Of romantic
legends Of pirates buccaneers and smueglers,
and also ruin which Is identified as the cas-
tie of a conspirator who plotted against Henry
III.
Mr.. HEAVENS DOMAIN.
The island. being constantly under observation
from the coast OF North Devon. is a convenient
barometer for the mainland. Tradition has de-
creed that when Lundy Is plain. there Will be
rain; and consequently he disappearance Of
the island from view In the early morning under
a curtain of haze is the accepted augury OF
fine day Lundy also supplies Of the most
Gov {,ka Of :. h
is owned by the Rev Mr. Heaven. who lives in
his demesne all the year round. and directs the
destines of fifty laborers and servants en-
ployed in sheep-raising and lobster-catching
Nothing could be more natural. or possibly more
humorous. than the popular description of as the
Kingdom of Heaven. and on this general theme
played a great variety of fantastic varia-
tons 1T costs five shillings 10 enter the King
dom 81 Heaven and three more TO get out Of II;
and there are no free passes either way" That
is a sample Of the North Devon Wit. which is
not so we'll sailed as is the air. Another is the
propretors own message to the mainland. when
cable communication was opened with Lundy:
The Kingdom Of Heaven rejoiceth." The Rev.
Mr. Heavens appreciation Of this class OF humor
seems to be abating for he rarely sees visitors,
who are taken to the island once a week by
excursion steamer and whose wits sharp
ened by the bracins air. During his reign
on the island he has heard hundreds Of New
Testament texts misa ppied 10 suit the occasion;
and having learned by rote all the stock jokes
based upon the family name. h" now finds 1t dill
Acult 10 force a smile whenever one is repeated
by a stranger.
North Devon is not a good country for wheel
men for the roads are precipitous and the view
from them Is shut in by high hedges over when
little is to be seen. 1t is pre-eminently as
tr,ct for the od-fashoned pastime OF rock
climbing The rock scenery is the characters
tic charm. and this can only be seen by those
who know how 10 use their legs. A finer walk
ing tour can hardly be made in England than
thu, from, the Foreland along the coast to Hart
land Point and thence 10 the Lizard There arc
MAGNIFICENT vistas Of the sea all the way anu
tho con,hes are q constant source OF wonder and
delight: and at every halting-place there are
heautif,1, parjsh churches with Norman lowers
ar.iouated carvings graceful lych-gates. mYs-
,ar,ous tor,bs and Crusaders graves TO be Nlsl'-
al or cliropses to be had of castles on the chhs
or oldtime houses on the hsides. Inc cHNhd'e
& oouahle without being enervating. 1t might
80 dascrihAd as semi-tropcal, II the summer
heat we're not tempered with cool preezes i'oi'i
-, ..,,,ic Devon is a beautiful country even
e., . lang season Of drouth. like the present
u,oroer when the meadows are burned anu
only tho nurple heather is luxur'ant; ana 'ie
~ seer from towering crags and loity h''i-
a,so. g s,orious in splendors of colorng and IN
finite in variety.