davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

a flap just the same way. The sleeves,
however, are decidedly smaller, The box
coats, which are also light colored, are of
the smooth cloth, have a let-in velvet collar
rule are double-breasted, fastened with big
fancy bone Of pearl buttons. They are
made with strapped seams, full back
that is, full skirts to the baek-and the
these coats are not intended for hard wear
the white satin is not so inappropriate as it
sounds. The covert coats, on the contrary,
which do not receive hard usage have fancy
safer to have these coats made by some
tailor, but occasionally they can be bought
ready made and with considerable style to
them. There is again an attempt to intro
duce the shapeless coat, which hangs ap-
parently from the shoulders without any
fit whatever Three or four of the swell
houses have these coats on exhibition, but
the style is too exaggerated and extreme to
suit a refined taste and is unbecoming to
everybody. The shapeless long box coats
which are occasionally seen at the open-air
horse shows in the autumn look rather
smart, and on top Of coach such a coat
seems appropriate; but when any one is
buying one garment to suit several occa-
sions anything in the least conspicuous
should be carefully avoided.
There are many styles of black Jackets
for the autumn which are extremely pretty.
One double-breasted and quite short resem-
Dies closely a riding habit. This is made of
smooth cloth, lined with bright satin. The
| sleeves are quite small and the seams are
| strapped. It is severe but chic. There are
some in rough cloths also tight fitting and
| bound all around with broad braid above
which narrow braid is put on in scalIoped
design. These Jackets are fastened with
black frogs and are always becoming and
| look well with any style of skirt They are
perhaps the best investment possible, for an
interining of flannel makes them warm
enough for winter wear with fur boa OF
collar,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

extensively on the gowns fastened in
this way. The pretty princess gown
for young lady which is illustrated
is of pale blue, and the effective tabs
about the belt and yoke are of black
velvet, fastened with silver buttons.
The yoke is of guipure lace over blue,
and the tight shirred sleeves. with very
moderate puffs, are surmounted by par
ticularly pretty epaulets, which are
quite the feature of the gown. The
sleeves are trimmed to match the feet
of the gown with narrow black velvet.
The next model is Of chine silk The
skirt is without lining. The two f1oun-
ces are cut on the bias and are made
of two tones of satin, the darkest and
the lightest found in the dress. The
seamless bodice fastened on the left
side is of light satin, and is covered
with lace. The tight sleeves are of the
same light satin as the bodice and are
covered with lace while the full
shoulder fiounceS are of darker
shade of the satin. A broad ribbon of
the darker satin Grapes the bodice with
bows at the shoulder and waist The
collar is of pale satin, with full frill
OF lace.
The tea gowns or morning gowns are
surely among the best beloved gar
ments of women, and nowadays they
are made so deliberately that many OF
them rival the dinner or ball costumes.
Those in the group are particularly
beautiful both in style and texture.
They are made Of soft creponS, foule
cloths, and merinoes. Some are made
with loosely hanging drapery, both
back and front, though the outline Of
the figure is suggested by a tightly
drawn sash underneath. Others have
the flowing Vatican train as a back
ground for the tight-fitting gown in
front. The first gown in the picture is
of soft, rich silk in a pale shade of
pink The loose folds show a deeper
shade of roster hue in the front of
the gowns. 1t is ornamented with
opalescent embroidery about the foot
of the gown, heading a full pleated
frill, and is confined about the waist
by a black satin Waistband with long
ends and a bow, The finely pleated
chiffon on the neck and sleeves is in
the two shades of pink, and is trimmed
with opalescent embroidery The re-
clining figure has on a pretty morning
gown Of soft light blue crepon. The
long, full draperies are lined with the
softest red. The gown falls from
square velvet collar The blue under
gown Is fastened across the bust with
bands of black velvet. From the back
of the collar the gown falls in soft
ing a less stiff effect than the Vatican.
Creamy lace edges the frilled epaulets
and trims the wrists.
The front of the next gown is of fine
~ pleated pale mauVe crepe de chine
combined with dark red The over
skirt and bolero Jacket are trimmed
with an applique of string colard lace
studded with jewels. The shirred
sleeves are of the mauve crepe. The
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

although they are clinging from wrist
to shoulder their shape is wonderfully
relieved by the many devices employed
to ornament the top, such as puffs,
frills, epaulets, points, and other trim
mings to match the bottom Of the
skirt
While the sleeves were SO large, all
women and all gowns looked much
alike; but now more individuality of
form and more taste and skill will be
shown in new effects in the combina-
tons of the silks and woolens which
will be used in the demi-seaSon toi-
lettes. The skirts and bodices will be
very much trimmed with & new coarse
lace, Bulgarian, CrOatian, and other
embroideries, in ivory or a pale cream
tone. The embroidery is protected and
relieved by an edge of colored braid,
gold cord, or narrow black velvet
1ckes of velvet covered with lace Will
be found on many Of the fall gowns
Narrow Valenciennes lace will be just
as popular as it has been all summer
Buttons will take prominent part In
the trimming of fall gowns. Some Of
the skirts will have the front breadth
outlined with buttons on both sides
corresponding with the two rows on the
double-breasted waist. The new but
tons are very artistic, especially those
modelled from the antique.
The odd bodices that are an abso- ate
necessity for young and old are pref
tier than ever. One most tastefully
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

ana change at the same time will have If
they Will, this season the privilege to discard
at their exquisiteIy appointed tables the use
OF napkins: Already in the aristocratic homes
Oh England the movement has gained a foot
hold inspired according to a recent state
ment, as a compliment to the refined table
manners of the guests
While napkins are not likely to be at once
II ever. omitted from many American tables
the discussion of the question is Of value II
only to accentuate the careless and slovenly
way most American children behave at the
table Who can fancy these youngsters ever
trained to a nicely of eating which will pre-
clude their need of napkin Many of them
should have a basin and towel served with
every course. In one family the fve-year-old
only child announces the end of his meal
by calmly sweeping his plate to the floor
and following 1t by the contents Of his cup
or glass. If we don't copy the English napkin
veto, we may with great advantage emulate
the English standard of behavior at table
for children. 1t Is hard to acquire elegant
table manners after the plastic years of child
hood. They show too plainly that they are
acquired, not inherent In many otherwise
well-regulated American families, however,
the behavior Of the fourteen and sixteen year
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

is not exactly handsome, but she is not
plain; and in her later-day toilets
from New York or Paris she is an at
tractive as well as impressive figure.
And she has the power of sincerity. A
great power, this lightning force of
earnestness that is not feigned, and it
is not in the possession of every polit-
1cal speaker. Even the workingman is
beginning to look askance at the fiat
terer. Even the farmer is beginning to
suspect that a candidate for a $50. 1000
a-year job may have something in his
mind besides the securing of higher
prices for farm products. But when
this tall, eager, clarion-voiced woman
rises. her hearers may believe that she
is utterly wrong-headed and be sure
that the very class that she pities
would be the first to be overwhelmed
by the ruin that triumph of her the
cries would insure; yet they never
doubt that she herself is honest.
Once Western nearer, finding moth
ing else at her tongues control, STAN
mered: You seem very much in ear
nest, Mrs. Lease"
The tears rose to Mrs. Leases eyes.
"Oh, my dear woman" she exclaimed.
you can't know how in earnest l am -
Mrs. Diggs and Mrs. Cougar are
slighter creatures, but Of the same ell
oquence and the same sincerity 1t
Is not creditable to the Wanted instinct
Of woman that most women politi-
clans should take to plausible, rotten
social and economic theories as natur-
ally as children take to poison sweets.
but the facts seem to support the
charge. Nor is it difficult to under
co Il I,D
women. They are all self-educated
women. and, previous to their cam
paign experience, women with narrow
lives. They are all women of the SYM
pathetic, l may say the sentimental,
temperament.
The sentimental temperament recoils
from iron truths; it rushes to rene
dies, whether the remedies have the
guarantee OF ever having remedied
anything or not. It is sympathetic, it is
hopeful, 1t is anything but clear
sighted or logical Consequently a
large degree of miscellaneous culture
and many moral beauties may consort
aInicably in the mind OF the sentiment
al temperament with business views
beneath contempt. A sentimentalist
with logic small las the phrenologists
motion. or blue grass, or the immediate
end Of the world, or Christian Science.
or that the more plentiful the supply
Of silver the greater its price, or in
young Mr.. Bryan. Of Nebraska, or In
Mrs. Hewe's bank. He or she, behold
ing that most appalling, most pitiful
spectacle in our times, the man who is
willing to work but cannot get work,
will have the heart wrung (God forgive
the man Or woman whose heart is not
wrung by that sightD, but he will not
patiently consider the cause for this
stagnation in industry, lest the remedy
proposed be worse than the disease.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
THE FEMININE OBSERVER.

Keep the lips dry if you wish to have them
pretty.
Bright red hats are quite the rage at At
lantic City.
The Elton and Bolero jackets in velvet will
be used on many smart gowns this autumn
Rugs, easy chairs palms and porch cur
tains convert the piazza into a delightful
outdoor parlor.
To keep Jackets and bodices in good shane
they. should be suspended on hangers when
not in use.
A true lovers knot Of smilax suspended
from the ceiling was the novel decoration
seen at recent wedding.
TO De quite up to date the veil must hang
loosely, instead OF being gathered neatly al
the back as was the former decree
why does the laundress always put tbe
greatest amount Of starch where it is sure
to make narrowing scratches in the skin?
1t is said that a likes a woman for
what ne sees in her; woman loves a man
Tor what she tmagines some other woman
sees in him.
There Is not as much talk as usual OF the
dearth OF young men at summer resorts
The bicycle has made the girls care less for
masculine society.
married woman should never sign her
self Mrs. Blank, except to her tradespeople
Her name must appear Mary L. Blank 10 ali
other communications.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

Many mothers entertain the notion that II
Is good thing for children to have measles,
Wnooplng cough and some ether Childish dis.
eases Whlle they are children. They have IN
tdTa mat the system is bstter qualified te
ailments. Some mothers 20 so far in this he.
f net as to expose their children to CONTRACTOR
a LOT tne purpose OF getting it over while theJ
are young" recent bulletin Of the lows
state board OF health frowns upon the practice
eu.nreserVedly No good reason,'' It saws
can De rendered for desiring any child to HI
SICK with any disease, and what NAV ~
oeemed right and safe in one case may bt
wrong and fatal in another. Because on,
child is rugged enough to throw Of Gisa AZ
Easily Is no reason why he should be turned
d nbpS ana attend school or mingle with othel
cniioren and be the means of Communicates.
y, disease to those less vigorous and thut
innicc pam expense and possible death. Al
ounce ounce OF preventive Is worth pound of cure
Measles Is preventable disease, Statistict
sn9" q large percentage OF deaths from IL
ana TINS Is abundant reason FOR the EFFORT
being made to prevent its spread and ezter.
inmate 1t wherever it makes it appearsnne' u
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
CHANGE OF STYLES
INDICATIONS OF THE FEATURES
OF THE AUTUMN
FASHIONS.
PRINCESS GOWNS FAVORED.
MODELS OF TEA GOWNS THAT ARE
PARTICULARLY BEAUTI-
Full.
INDIVIDUALITY IN ORNAMENT.
Coarse Lace, VaIenciennes, Velvet
and Buttons Will Be Much Used
as Trimmings

The crowds of pleasure seekers who
are flocking back to the city every day
are hunting industriously for the
changes in fashion The godet skirts
and huge sleeves are surely among
the rapidly departing styles, and fash
ion threatens to go to the other ex-
treme and return to close, clinging
skirts. The new gowns are reduced
20 almost one-half of the fulness that
formerly prevailed, and they fit closely
about the hips that they will be ex-
ceedingly trying to very slight figures.
The tight sleeves are equally trying,
and many women are moauing over the
lost fullness that has been so beeom-
ing TO their Extreme slenderness. The
sleeves in this transition period are a
very important part Of the dress. and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
WOMEN In POLITICS
OCTAVE THANET WRITES ABOUT
THE FEMININE POLITICIANS
OF THE WEST.
1v
THREE P0PULISTS ARE THEY.
SEI4F-EDUCATED WOMEN WITH
THE SENTIMENTAL. TEMPER
AMENT.
NEsDAMEs LEASE, COUGAR, DIGGs.
They Select the Remedies Which
Promise the Most, Regardless
of FuIlIlment.
New York Tribune.

New York Tribune.
A picturesque group of women have
arisen in the West. Their own person.
ality is attractive to social student
but the reasons for their coming on the
stage are of deeper and more vivid in
terest.
The most prominent of Western
women politicians, Mrs Foster, Mrs.
Lease, Mrs. Cougar and Mrs. Diggs
(unpleasantfy suggestive name for a
womam are all of comparatively re-
cent fame, unless it be Mrs. Foster.
But Mrs. Foster is the most conserv-
alive of them ALL and won her spurs
as a temperance worker, not as a pol
itician, drifting gradually into politics.
She is not only an eloquent speaker,
but very adroit politician and an ex-
pert organizer. TO the eye she is a
woman of fine presence, with a win
ming manner. To the ear she depends
as much on the soundness of her logic
as on the persuasion of her appeals.
In fact, judging from her written
speeches, Mrs. Foster would be likely
to say to an audience, gently, mod
estly: Come, now, let us reason to-
getherr'
Mrs Lease would exclaim with a
fiery wave of her long arms: LET me
tell you what the bloodsucking tyrants
of monopoly have done to usv' and
Mrs. Cougar would brush a tear from
her fine eyes and beg the synpathiz-
ing audience to listen to her tale of
woe. Mrs. Diggs. the other member
Of the Populist trio, is younger, a fiery
little woman who sings her oratorical
tomahawk as readily at evil-doers
within the Populists' ranks as at the
hosts Of sin without. She is, at pres
ent, busy trying to chase the antelope
otherwise his excellency, Gov Level
linS) over the plains-and off the ticket
for the sake Of the dear cause that
we all have at heart She is said to
equal Mrs. Lease in impassioned ar
raignment and to be as melodious and
pathetic as Mrs. Gougar-but Mrs
Cougars admirers dispute the latter
claim.
In appearance Mrs. Lease is a tall
woman to whom in middle life has
come the kind of grace that grows out
of composure and f-possession. She
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

made is of black chiffon over a black
or colored silk lining. and has chem
isette and vest of white net. 1t has
black sequin trimming and unIined
shrred sleeves of black chiffon with
pleated friIls. Deeper frills are used
for the bertha and epaulets and for
the basque. and a graduated friIl
serves for the front OF the bodice. The
collar and belt take the tone of the
lining of the bodice.
Old-fashioned hounces are coming
back to uS-eYen founees half way UP
the skirt; and they supply very grace
fui way to fenovate a black silk by
houncing 1t with silk muslin, covering
the waist and shirring the muslin over
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

that?" But do" persisted the girl. Boys
never come out. What Is the reason of It
ALL I should Ike to know lit is really to
announce to the world that we are of mar
riageable age, and that we are upon the mar.
ket And then the way people have of dis
cussing us and our chances, and whether we
are a success or not, 1t is perfectly intol-
cradle. I think we are like victims decked
for the sacrifice. De you for one instance
suppose that papa would pay the enormous
bills for the dressmaker and mifIiner and
allow you to give series of expensiVef din
ners If 1t were not for that7 He does not
say so. and you do not cay so, but ypu both
know It II true. or coursa. II am not 8
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
How to Brace In

=, Women ought not to eat heartily when
dIey are ured unless they are seeking fo1
is said to be the following: rake off OFF, fb bs
street gown, take out the hair pins and taxi
on the shoes Brush the hair for a few mIns
place where it is usually worn. Have read read
q boWl OF very hot water, wash the face and
neck in it. Press the wash cloth as hot as
II can De borne, at the back OF the neck
and over the eyes. When the hot wafer bs =
relaxed the tense, tired muscles somewhat
dash cold water with toilet vinegar Of
cologne In 1t over the face and neck Then
lie down for fifteen minutes. Keen the ewes
closed and the mind as blank as possifle-
Then drink cup of hot water or weak tea.
Put on fresh gown, and unless the weari-
ness is unusual the most rested sensation will
follow and diner will be pleasure
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

rection SO that the sun will not waken the
sleeper too early in the morning Shelves IN
closets are placed so high that a step ladder
Is often necessary to reach them; doors
ara swung in the wrong direction; nreplaces
are in dark corners where 1t is impossible
to get warmth as well light laundries are
too dark for the Iaundrcss to know whether
or not the linen is properly washed: closets
that might well be large and ventilated by
window are small and air-tight; mouidines
about doors and elsewhere are made orna-
mental with grooves that catch the dust
All these things can usually be remedied with
out much extra expense but it Is the expe-.
rience Of most persons that they must be
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

vey; nor wide enough knowledge to
understand that what Kansas and
Nebraska need is not free silver. but
Irrigation; not reputation, but capital
enough to make their country profit
able; not reform, but horse sense.
But the situation is as natural as it
is deplorable. These hard working.
half-educated women, whose hearts
are aching with lpitys have devoured
the shallow but picturesque arguments
OF the prophets OF a silver-plated mil
1ennium. And, once having accepted
the faith, they are defending it with
woman's headlong zeal, a woman 5
blind devotion and a woman's self
sacrifice.
Oh, the pity of it, the pity Of it, Iago
Octave Thanet
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
CIubs Cor one Country.

Western woman, who is desirous that
country neighbOrhoods should more often unite
their interests and civi1ize their communities
by good schools, good roads, humanity to
animals, a knowledge of the best ways to
carry on their homes and estates, says Of a
visit to club with these objects: almost
every woman I'm it was farmers wife. There
was not even church at the Corners as 1t
was called. but at least fifty women wera
men came with their wives. | was astonished
at their interest and ea,serness for what thew
expected to receive through their club. and
the pleasure with which they looked forward
to the meeting of it."
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
THE COMING OF FALL.

And now comes jolly Autumn, strewfng
leaves.
Like liberal largess round princes path:
sheaves
And all the spilling Golfers that lie hath.
The thud Of falling fruits. too ripe to cling.
About his path blackbird rabbIe sing.
Upon whom aldermanic robins walt
He sprfnkles round him showers OF berry
blce.
And tweaks the generous ears Of stately
corn.
He thumps the answering melons 1esrnediy.
And hatters apples flushing like the morn.
Thus, plods he, chuckiing down In the sun
lit lanes
Assessing what the spring had hoped to
And lcyying ON the summers heavy gains
The general tax collector Of the year.
Rupert Hughes
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
II You Are Building.

II women who have houses built for them
would always go carefully over the plans tt
see that they were adapted to their con-
venience, and insist that all inconvenience
discovered should be altered until they met
their needs, we should have many more
satisfactory homes. One of the evils dis
covered in many houses after they are fin
ished Is that there is no space wide enough
for a bed, SO that it can stand out Of a
corner, and also out of q draught, with the
light entering the room in the proper di-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

the close black sleeves. using deep
ffounces of the muslin for bertha and
epaulets.
The princess gown bids fair to be
exceedingly fashionable this fall and
winter for outdoor house and evening
wear. Some of these gowns button
down each side of the front breadth
or are fastened under a belt across the
front; but as a rule they are fastened
under the left arm and on the shoulder.
Lace or braided boleros will be worn
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

Every mother who has little children that
cannot go to kindergarten will find sand
table one OF the best Investments that she
can make for their continual entertainment
The sand table is a deep, strong box on stout
legs. and should be water tight This Is
flled with sand TO within a few inches OF the
top, and in winter days provides a place To-
dig. make garden-roads, to create hills. noun
tains, and rivers, and valleys, and with the
aid of blocks and the miniature trees to bs
had at the toy store to construct cities, flied
with architectural beauties and lovely parks
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

success-that is. if I do not have attention
and marry of-you will both be kind to me-
and resign yourselves to circumstances, but
/ know you will consider me failure all the
same. Then the criticism a girl is exposed
to is almost as bad-her looks, her dress, her
manners, her powers of conversation are all
discussed and decided upon. Altogether, it's
horrid ordeal, and | wish you would give
me the money it will cost and let me start
in business" concluded this new young
woman. to the undissembled horror OF
mamma.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
women's Autumn Jackets.

F1AIpef BazaS.
This is the season Of the year for covert
and box coats, those smart little garments
stylish. There is not a great deal of change
from year to year in the cut of the covert
coats4 They are two Inches longer this
autumn than they were last spring. but the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20

old children would not be tolerated at the
English nursery board around which gather
the three and five-year-oids Of the house
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-20
The Wees of a Debutante~

II think it so vulgar to come out.' said
one of the coming debutantes to her mosher
half crying as she spoke Why, my dearv'
exclaimed the latter, astonished. What rea-
son have you to say such an absurd thing as