The record-union., 1896-08-02


ders, and its adjustment is accomplish
ed by means Of ribbon which passes un-
der the arms and buttons in the CEN
ter Of the shoulders under the cape.
The fronts are turned back, forming
revers revealing a pretty lining of
mauve, pink, old rose or canary yellow
brocade. Some of these collets are no
more than twelve inches in length, but
they are very full.
Piques and linens, both white and col
ored, are made up after the style of the
duck suits and other heavy wash cos
tunes worn In the morning. Soft corn
yellow pique, which proved so popular
last summer, Is again a favorite, and
some of the dresses of this fabric are
made exceedingly elaborate with trim
mings of heavy Russian lace and black
velvet ribbon. Other trimmings used on
pink dresses are rows Of No. bebe vel
vet ribbon in black, five rows being used
as rule. This trimming appears on the
collar band, belt, collarettes, sleeves and
skirt hem White English embroidery
is likewise used for pique and for COL
ored linens, batistes and chambrays.
4
While gay-colored and tinted dress
Innings of many different varieties are
in high vogue this season, there is also
decided leaning toward the very light
and neutral tones, and white i'm satin
or taffeta is used for skirts and bodices
under semi transparent fabrics like or
CANDY, canvas, grass linen and baptiste.
A soft sage-green etamine made up
! over white taffeta is cool and elegant
looking in effect, with its garnitures
on the ribbon. Black grenadines and
etamines over white are made up with
elegant trimmings of jet and pearl
rassementerie and black lace laid over
pieated white chiffon Black and white
striped silks have the bodices draped
with white mousslaine Ge sole, or with
fichu or very large Stuart collar that
nearly hides the entire bodice from
view.
Yellow In evening toilets of diaphan-
Gus nature and yellow in simple day
gowns is a rival to mauve and golden
green this season. Some Of the hand
some white mohair costumes for dress
occasions with yellow silk facings
on the coat, and the skirt is lined
etamines, grenadines, and transparent
grass linens are most effective made up
over yellow satin, with lowcut under
bodice and sleeve puffs of the Satin
draped with the airy fabric. Swiss and
India mulls over yellow taffeta, batiste,
or surah have handsome yellow satin
ribbon trimmings on the shoulders and
at the belt These are for youthful
wearers, and the gowns are designed
for dress wear accompanied by leghorn
hats trimmed with black or green velvet
ribbon, white tulle pleating and yellow
roses and mignonette sprays Plaid
ribbons in new color combinations and
of great width are being used by Paris
milliners ON leghorn and Panama hats
the gay rich tartan loops and Alsatian
bows forming their sole trimming.
Preparing a wardrobe for the yaca-
tion season has become a much ca sier
matter than formerly in these days of
handsome, ready-made, well-cut and
fash1omed costumes, separate skirts and
waists, and these in very many in
stances at prices far below what they
could possibly be purchased for by the
yard and made up by the modiste
Many objections against these gar
ments have been removed-for instance
the inferior work put into them and
the mediocre materials used, and also
the fact that scores of gowns were made
AFTER one single model and of one ma
terial. This summer there appear to
De hardly two alike, and there is a.
great diversity in the manner Of making
crate character. Extremes in either
skirts or sleeves are avoided the heavier
materials for utility uses are neatly
lined with percaline, cambria or taffeta
SILK, and narrowly faced with yelveteen.
In the great variety of suits or sep
arate skirts are those of mohair. serge
glossy alpaca, shepherds check In silk
and wool, Lansdowne cheviot, etc. for
beach, travelling and mountain wear.
and also tan and brown whipcords
covert suitings and lightweight tweeds
and summer tweeds In broken checks
These costumes differ very little indeed
from French models Some have small
box coats, others the Norfolk Jacket.
belted and with fiat box-pleats, or there
are cut-away jackets fastened only by
one button, or Eton styles with tabled
fronts and heightened back reaching
about a quarter of yard below the
waist All the coats are short and
formed to be worn above shirt waists
or waistcoats. The REFER jackets en-
suite with costumes made of tan whip
cord, crash, or Holland are short and
Jaunty. Then come the lighter suits
OF pique, Irish linen striped or dotted
duck, grass cloth, percale, dimity and a.
host more of extremely dainty and
charming gowns, lace and insertion
trimmed, finished simply with rows Of
linen braid, frills of the dress goods. or
merely machine stitched. The range in
these ready-made gowns is large in
deed, extending from imported toilets
| that cost from $40 to S100 and formed
of very ele CANT materials and trimming.
and grading down through the display
of medium and low-priced costumes for
general wear-those for tennis, cycling.
| mountain climbing, golf etc.-to the
| neat little gowns Of dotted or striped
corded cotton, gingham, and like fabrics
that are sold for less than 50 a suit.
/ For thin waists made without lining
pretty model has a yoked back and a
| tucked front, every fifth row of tucks
alternating with a row of lace insertion.
The belt, collar and bands of the bishop
sleeves are covered with insertion, and
the small pearl buttons down the front
are hidden by a band of the trimming.
Fichus with very long ends, that tie
and fall low on the skirt are made of
airy textiles matching the gown and
! edged with frills of Valenciennes lace.
Sleeves of diaphanous ma terial are un-
| lined and the majority this season are