Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1896-10-11

to form ground over which network of dark blue was woven.
 "This piece" said madame, twill be used to make skirt which is not yet cut. The skirt will have five gores-a narrow front, two wide side gores and two narrow back gores. Haireloth will stilfcn it about 13 inches up, and it will be lined throughout with gold and blue taffeta The skirt will fit smooth ly across the front, but the side and the back gores will be laid in four stiff plaits The plaits will retain their shape down the entire length of the skirt.
 "So much for the skirt. Now let me show you the bodice.'
 She showed it. 1t was nearly finished and it's beauty fascinated me.
 The back ended at the waistline and was plain, save for a soft, blue velvet girdle that was laid from one side seam to the other. In front, band of broad, yellow lace, over white mousseline de soie, formed a yoke. The mousseline continued to the waistline, turning un- der at the belt with a blouse effect. At the sides were double jacket fronts, those underneath being of blue velvet, while the top pieces were of the dress material. Toward the center the jacket fronts ended in sharp points that fell seven inches below the belt, but fin ished on the waistlne at the sides.
 The sleeves had small puffs above the elbow ,and fell over the hands in points that were filled in with mousseline de soie.
 begged madame to tell mesthe cost of this gown, and she gave me the follow ing prices. Seven yards of material at $1 .S5 per yard; one-half yard of lace, at 60 cents per yard; IA yards of velvet. $2.5O; lining, SIP; making, $27.75. The entire cost of this costume was there fore but S36.35.
 Bodices are now made with seamless backs. the proper sit of which it is most difficult to secure. dpessmaler con siders it the highest art to be able to turn out seamless back without the sign of wrinkle, although the backs are, of course, fitted over many scanned Enings.
 I6U nldmA DOtfiCtss. 1dl llCHidIi OliOoC of thin materials, are still softly gath cred at the waist. Such garment has just been turned out by one of New York's fashionable modistes, and al though very simple. is worthy of men, tion.
 Green taffeta is used as foundation. Over it. gathered both front and back, is warp-printed black silk grenadine. Since the owner of the bodice is rather stout, it extends slightly below the waist, where it finishes with narrow fold of green velvet. A large bow of the velvet in the back and small one in front beautify the waistline.
 A ieweled band crosses the bust. Here. again, a slight modification is made in the original design to over come the objectionable stoutness. The ieweled band is not laid straight across, but forms iii the center a very blunt angle, hardly perceptible to the casual observer. The band ends in very full bows of velvet.
 The sleeves are mousquetaire to the shoulder, and have scant puffs at the shoulder seams. An immense bow at the back of the stock collar is entirely made of ends of ribbon.
 Another charming bodice, this time with seamless back, is intended for street wear by more slender person. Snuff brown cloth. criss-crossed with dark brown silk threads. is used in it's designing The neck ruche vest and lower sleeves are of mousseline de soie, matching the ground color. Brown silk. dotted here and there with span gles, forms the upper sleeve puffs. and