Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-02-15
Renaissance Of the Straight Choker
in Slightly Modified Form.
LAUNDRY LOSSES ARE LESSENED
Pointed Toes in Footwear Gradu-
ally Getting Blunt.
THE RDUROY VEST


as collars. He nearly always wears a new
enc on occasions of dress, and then again
he tries every new style that comes out
until he has enough collars to supply his
valet and the butler and all the other male
help below stairs and to equip the necks
of a regiment beside. 1t makes no differ
ence to him whether ends are turned down
and consequently cracked and broken in the
polishing rollers of steam laundries Or
whether they are straight standing affairs,
that invite no friction when passing through
the mysteries of the modern wash.
To the careful and economical man, how
ever who Is fond of clean linen. the expense
of collars is an important item, and he re-
CARDS 1t serious matter when frayed
or broken collar rubs his neck till it looks
as If he had the BARRIERS itch. To SUCH and
they all want to be in the procession so far
as style is concerned, the collar which is now
all the rage has many attractions and the
probabilities are that ii will long remain in
favor.
Straight and Standing.
The present style is the straight, high
standing collar in several varieties 1t can
te purchased with front slightly higher
than the back, with points that should be
given the slightest sort of a bend when
about to be put on. This style is particular
ly graceful, and is especially adapted to men
with long necks and possessed of prominent
protuberances, Familiarity known as Adams
apples. The points are high and cover
this part Of the neck, but are bent forward
sufficiently to take them out of the "choker'
category.
The choker however, that was so greatly
favored dozen years ago and was then de-
serted for the collar with squarely turned
ENDS, is coming into vogue again and is alb
solutely the thing with full dress. These
varieties are mostly in demand, but the
squarely turned collars are still popular with
men who have thick, short necks and are
stout of figure.
Something About Shoes.
With most men the other end of the body
receives as much attention as the one just
treated, but, OF course, to be properly dress
ed cap-a-pie is the object of all who are
careful and neat. The styles in shoes are
undergoing a gradual but none the less de-
cided change. The pointed toe Is going out
of favor, except with those who are proud
of their narrow and delicate feet. No shoe
has ever created the misery and suffering
that the pointed ton tas and 1t was all
unnecessary, too. The men with broad
soles and flat insteps, who had been ac-
customed to wear say No. So in the round
or broad-toed articles that fitted their feet,
insisted on wearing the same sizes in the
narrow and pointed styles, and underwent
the agony of constantly pinched toes ard
vise-held joints. because they were oppased
to wearing any S.ze larger than they had
always been accustomed TO. Every reader
of The Star probably has seen a big heavy
man mincing along with feet broad at the
middle pinched TO point at the toe, and
knew what allied him. And he would have
walked erect and easily if he had only
gotten his pointed shoes a size longer than
those he had formerly worn. The round
toe is superseding the points, but is still
nearly too sharp for perfect comfort IL
the wearers insist on calling for their
steady sizes instead of instructing the clerk
in the shoe shop to fit his feet. The now
popular style in this variety Is called the
opera" and is a graceful article Of foot
wear. In patent feathers it is almost uni
versaIiy worn with afternoon dress-the
long cutaWay or frock coat and the rest of
it. There is an abominaton making head
way called the French plain" This shoe
curves as If 1t We're going to end in a semi
circle, and is then suddenly cut off square.
Still, it is considered fashionable, esDe-
cially in patent leather and in the north
the Boston and other New England swells
think it nobby.
SOles Are Heavier.
In shoes for daily wear the sole is heavier
and the whole article more solid in build
than ever before. Russet and tan are still
in general demand for morning and loung
ing wear, and black enamel leather is
equally popular. Cork soles are more num-
erous this year than formerly, but the
favorite sole has an extended edge, making
what used to be known as the Scotch sole
with heavy stitching in thread almost as
thick as wrapping Irvine. This sort of sole
is also found in black leather shoes, which
are known to the trade as college" shoes,
and are particularly affected by young men.
They come in moderately sharp toes.
The CordurOy Vest.
1t has come to be generally recognized Of
late that a pair of black shoes should not
sports corduroy or leather vest, and con-
sequently the acceptance of this fact is
sufficiently widespread to make 1t dictum
of fashion
These vests, however are much abused
articles of apparel. They were simply in
tended in the first place to afford more
warmth than the ordinary waistcoat sup
plies Observers who had worn bicycle
sweaters. and found how comfortable they
We're, conceived the idea of having some
thing that could be worn with street
clothes, and the thick vest was manufac-
tured Corduroy happened to be selected
as the material and the style came IN with
: a rush. AS in all other styles which strike
the fancy very strongly, the material soon
became VarieSated, so to speak, and
leather and close plush even are seen in
Such habiiments. These vests should never
be Worn with a black coat or trousers, no
matter whether the coat is long or tailless.
coat ana trousers Of rough material; the
soft felt or derby hat and tan or russell
shoes.
G