The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-01-19

eiderdown, and princess dresses are more
than ever in demand, some being made
entirely of fur, finished with a roll Of sable
at the bottom and around the neck. How
ever, not only are these costumes ex-
tremely expensive, but they weigh ire
mendously on account OF the wide skirts,
so Will not continue to be worn unless the
skirts diminish in width very rapidly.
They usually have epaulets composed of
1. pleated sable, and are only perfectly sue
cessful when made by an expert furrier.
Among the most unusual of evening
gowns are those having points OF fur,
preferably sable or chinchilla. Where the
fronts join the silk or brocade the seams
are outlined with prec lous stones. Such
toilets are seldom seen, but deep bands
of chinchilla or sable border most of the
handsomest skirts Many fronts are of
plain silk or satin in these princess gowns,
the train being OF MORE or the rarest OF
brocades, and never have richer fabrics
been on the counters. Most artistic speci-
many frocks, rare laces are in vogue, and
wonderful are the results produced with
precious stones and golden threads.
What do you think of an opera cloak
composed of black satin embroidered su-
perbly in cut jet and lined with jonquil
satin? The bonnet worn with it consists
of a tiny jet crown. In the front arise two
large black butterfly wings, and [ almost
forgot to tell you that the cloak has huge
collar of black ostrich feathers.
a pretty, plump matron received her
guests last week in dress which admira-
bly, suited her. The plain skirt was of a
changeable velvet, green, turning to odd
shades of rose. The corsage was likewise
absolutely plain, of a dark green brocade
covered with dull, pinkish flowers. 1t had
a square.cut neck, not at all low. The
n6 IA m
tres ben.
One of the most stylish of young women
wears dress of a fine mauve-colored
cloth, made absolutely plain, excepting
for an odd piece on the right side, which
looks like great rever, as 1t extends
from, the neck to the waist, being com
posed OF petunia velvet covered with
guipure lace; the waistband and cuffs are
OF the same. The wearer's throat is en-
circled with a ribbon of petunia satin,
ending in bow with many ends.
A bright girl, noted for her tasteful cos
tunes, wore one evening at home pretty
Dresden Powered skirt, pink ground
covered with yellow roses and green
sprigs; the waist was of green taffeta,
with deep collar of old yellow lace; the
vest and stock were OF yellow silk, covered
with the lace.
Absolutely absurd in most cases are the
huge bows of mousseline de sole or chiffon,
the ends trimmed with real lace. They
are tied under the chin, and for girls with
long slender threats the effect is very chic,
when in other ways the maiden fultills the
demands of the bow. This is an expensive
fad, as bow of either chiffon or mousse
line can only be worn two or three times.
Quite number of articles were written
not long ago on the subject of how inap-
propriately most women dressed for
church. Now, of course, tailor gown or
rich but quiet fabric is most appropriate,
but / must say that as far as can see the
women here cannot be accused Of over
dressing. There are some exceptions, how
ever, but few criticisms can be made on
this score. When people wonder why
more of their neighbors and acquaintances
do not attend church / never do, for | am
surprised at the mum Der who go regularly
as some churches are known to be so
badly ventilated that half who 60 suffer