San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-03-22
EUROPEAN LETTER.
TOURISTS SIGHT SEEING IN IT.
ALY's CAPITAL CITY.
Chariot Races - Visit to the Kings
stables-The Beggars Are the
Tourists Worst Enemies.
from Our Special Correspondent. /


stay in Rome has been extremely
pleasant and profitable.
Now / want to mention what
we have seen during the last week /:
The Capitol, the Aventine, the
Pantheon, PauPs prison, the
kings stables, the Jesuit church
of st. Ignazio and Gesu, one of the
most gorgeous churches in Rome.
On Sunday we went to the Villa
Borghese, where they had fitted up
the bed of what was formerly a
large lake as a race course and
were having horse and chariot
races there witnessed by thousands
of people. 1t seemed strange to
me to pay admission and attend
this performance of wild west or
der excepting, of course, the chart
OF races on Sunday afternoon.
But it was for the benefit of the
wounded in Africa. A thousand
more soldiers left here last week
for Africa, to recruit the ranks Of
the wounded. They departed amid
bursts of martial music and great
enthusiasm. But the sensitive ear
detected many minor notes. They
came from the broken hearts
of mothers, wives and sisters,
who were em bracing the loved ones
they might never again see. Oh,
it was terribly sad. 1t makes me
boil with Indignation when think
on what trivial pretexts nations
that call themselves civilized, re-
sort to war. / admire England for
the pacific attitude she took in our
recent little wrangle. She kept a
level head. Until man is ready
to enlist in the first volunteer
regiment, it does not become him
to blow about war.
On the Aventine we saw very
handsome new monastery, a vista
opening upon st. Peters, and st.
Sabina, an old church dating from
the early fifth century. Here we
were followed around by an old
Franciscan monk who took US in
to the monastery gardens and gave
us flowers. This reminds me that
In Rome there are as many uni
formed and official as unofficial
beggars. The former class keep
little gates and doors locked on
public highways or in buildings,
which the visitor has perfect
right to enter free OF charge. But
not so, rule these beggars in brass
buttons. They appoint themselves
custodian Of the key, and you must
ring and wait on their officious SER
vice. They bow around and make
a great pretence OF assistance. Once
away from them you are con-
fronted by the deformed and
wretched looking beggars at every
church door, who often project
themselves in front Of you and all
but catch hold Of your sleeve. II
you refuse them, maledictions are
hurled after you. This is one of
the very disagreeable features of
European travel. l shall never
forget q beggar, this time in the
garb of a priest, whom we en-.
countered in the great cathedral
Of Seville. He asked for money in
every way but in words. 1 did
not mind this so much as / did his
face. It was the most voluptuous,
repuSnant face 1 have ever seen.
Alas, that his lips have ever taken
the vows of holy church. He
might grace the bowery, but his
physical makeup was suggestive
Of every thing but sanctity.
On Thursday we went to the
kings stables, where Paul was
greatly delighted with the $50
horses. They were pleasing to
look at, fine, fat, sleek, intelligent
looking fellows, with nothing to
do but contemplate their fortunate
Cor unfortunately lot in life, for they
looked like they longed for an out
ing and would gladly exchange
places with the cab-horses on the
highway il only they could get
sunshine and exercise. Mean
while, doubtless, their weary cab
brothers long to step into their
SuOtss AL vi WhiCh sOoo w plONO
that happiness is relative and that
horses, like men, are slaves, to i'm
agination.
At the capital we saw the munic-
ipal council rooms, busts OF the
king and prince Of Naples, beau
tiful statue OF Cleopatra by a
Roman sculptor, and number Of
other pictures, all historical.
Near the capitol we went into an
old building and down narrow
winding stairs into a dungen
which is believed to be the identi-
cal one in which Paul was con-
fined.
Walking along a street the other
day / saw a crowd collected in
front Of a house and looking up, l
thought, at 1t. A nearer approach
showed the house to be a Catholic
school or home for young girls.
They were leaning over the high
balconies in pure white garments
which seemed to differ in no re-
u