New-York tribune., 1896-12-11
THE TRYING NEW SLEE'E.
MUSHROOM SHAPES NOT so BECOMING AS
THEY ARE STYLISTI-EXQUISITE GOWNS


Sleeves are a very important considera'ioh Ju''
NOW Almos. every one found the large sleeves be-
coming but some Of the present shapes are eNceeu-
irgI, ,rvinp The mushroom shape that dress
makers here frequently make use OF Is hardy ever
seen on French dresses. although IL mas op'a1"eu
considerable vogue In England
II is essentially ugly and Invariably unbecoming'
consisting o. one short puff at the top Of long,
fight sleeve A Frencn dressmaker gives II as
rule that sleeves to be pretty should ether De Vi
the ggot shape else quite tight to the shoudet'
where bows OF ribbon, drapery In cohhecuo" VIVA
the waist or gathered epaulettes or ncnu-iiAe
trimming of the bodice. all pretty. dress cut
low on tho shoulders. with deep revers eN'eh""s
over the arms has very becoming erect
-ovn of great elegance made In this way Is OF
gray ga tin: the sleeves are entirely tiBh'htfs am
come Only TO the elbow. where they are hhiShe"
with a fold Of gray tulle. a "gros noeud on 'ne
side and half circle of lace friil at the back.
The upper bodice IL tight fitting. cut very low en-
occur in the neck. and has large revers. back ana
front Of rose-coored velvet which meet on the
shoulder where they fare GU, over the arms ana
are then graduated TO point just above the ueep-
draped corseet belt of black satin. ON either side
OF the point two disk buttons OF Straus uia-
uonds The back satin belt IL only in front the
sides of the gown being cut princess shape. Tne
second dart runs ur 10 the shoulder and -
covered-as are also the edges OF the bet-with
folds of gray tulle This is fastened just below the
bel, with knot, and then. continuing down the
s,,r, on either side Of the front breadth. knotted
again with a bouilee knot about half way down.
and then hangs loose to the hem OF the skirt
The high necked plasiron inside the ow-cut gray
hodce IL OF rosecolored lin to na ch the velvet
r.v.rs and the neck IL finished with band or
roscoe ored velvet. a cascade OF lace 10 match
that on the sleeves falls the collar AT the back
very chic little frock for young girl Is OF blue
md white check silk Tn. upper part OF the blouse
bodice is made with four pleats, the upper one
forming a short yoke. and the other thres-one
under the other-reachng 10 just below the breast
Across the shoulders short bands OF white satin
rlbhou finished with mouinet bows Il few inches
below the shoulders on the seam or the sleeves.
Th, collar and belt also OF white SATIN, the at-
for having n moullnet bow on the LETT side Inc
skirt has a pretty trimming at the mead OF the he'h
f. consists Of white satin ribbon run in ana out OF
m. buttonhole- stitched sts-cut for the purpose
thc same width the ribbon. The trimming IS
finished, with "A small moulinet bow on each breadth
TAIfOR-MADE GOWNS.
French tailor-made gowns are apt 10 be more be-
coming than the English gowns. as the waists are
nearly always relieved by little imagination,
us they fancfuly term +.
A very pretty costume designed by a Partisan
tailleur des DANES Is of pum-coored cloth. lined
with A yellow-nowered silk on the skirt about
two inches apart long tabs. made or black
mohair braid. about one inch Wide. TWO OF these