The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-03-08
ELLEN oSBORNS LETTER.
THE BATTLE OF THE NEW SLEEVE
AND THE OLD At ITS HIGHT.
Surrender or Compromise sure.
short Gloves Nay he Worn Again.
strap Adjournment for Spring jack
efS-FamfIfar Hat Forms.

short Gloves Way he Worn Again.
strap Adjournment for Spring jack
etS-FamiIiar Hat Forms.
New York, March The battle royal
OF the sleeves is a battle between the
Originators Of styles and their unwilling
followers. The mOdistes Of far Paris are
making every endeavOr to introduce the
close sleeve; and everything favors them.
except the Unborn conservatism of wO-
men, few of whom enjoy being the first BY
whom the new is tried. There can be but
one Of two results. victory or compromise.
The biggest big sleeves are seeing their
last days. that is certain.
There are sleeves, as I have written
weeks ago. that do compromise, and some
Of these are not TO be known at care
less glance. The most Of them have the
tight wrinkled sleeve very nearly up to
the shoulder. where ID is hidden by small
puffs at the top. A very beautiful gown Of
ms order has a plain skirt Of pale yellow
satin, a narrow belt Of orange velvet, a
bodice Of pale yellow chiffon over a fold
ca corselet Of yellow satin, while the yell
low sleeves are arranged a la mousque-
taire-I know not why the term may not
nj them as well as gloves. The little
round shoulder puffs Of creamy lace are
quite high, an elegant reminder of the
LAaislilg orapery We saw not three months
50, Whlch used TO suggest the idea that
y nan sllpped half way from the shoulder
10 the elbow. So change the fashions and
we in theml
No suggestion of compromise mends or
nIidts the ugliness of a huge balloon
siseNe which lady has just had made
a. sort of mailing flag to the mast
asdlIsl al invading mode. 1t is a flag
u sleeve, made all of superimposed tucks
OF RULES from shoulder TO elbow, the
GoIsase opening framed with wide black
Iace nounce with white lace applique.
ioy me time Lent is over this gown will
look older than IL does now while the
9ehoW costume / have described will be
IN correct cut for months to come. There
- WISDOM IN compromises.
II the average woman shows a will
Ingness TO compromise upon the small
sieeVe, or even to adopt it outright, since
II IS mode that suits her well enough,
on another point she is more firm-she
VIII not take kindly to the draped skirt
anu rightly because it does not suit her
wen enough. The average woman is neith-
" so tail nor so slender as the tailor's
model, and has no mind to draw across
her moderate stature the modest lines of
SeH-eHacement. No mode was ever so
becoming to the average, lovable plump
ntte woman as the plain long skirt, and
~ - sun nor only the rule but almost
me unNafylng rule. The whole history
OF fashion seems to be an unending strug-
gle or tai, slim women trying to force
modes suitable to themselves upon short
plump women. And you can never tell
When the latter are about to submit
meekly, and when to rebel.
Some OF the dressrnakers are drawing
IN the seams of their sleeves by degrees,
tearing lest some future wave of fancy
may beat back the advancing tide. Per-
haps they are wise, especially in the mat
Ter or outdoor garments Spring raiment
like the flowers that brave the snow,
makes most frequent use of sharp color
contrasts and conservative cut. The
newest velvet coat falls but to the hips
where it turns out jauntily Its sleeves
are OF modest size and made of light
loose cloth to match the gown. And there
are straps of the velvet upon the cloth
sleeves and-to be perfectly fair-straps
of cloth down the velvet front and about
the collar. The straps of sharply diff
ferent tone are most distinctive of the
season. In evening gowns of the filmiest
texture we have had them of velvet or
even of feathers or fur. They are now
to be dragged outdoors, where they are
quite as appropriate
Another device of the velvet worship
pers is to make broad ones phylactery Of
it. 10 hang upon Jacket front two huge
round-bottcmed lapels, looking combined
like big black lung shield. This effect
is relieved by elaborate embroidery uDon
the velvet, but the net result Is not re-
assuring. Bodces of spring gowns have
often bell-muzzled sleeves. belching a
smoke of lace, high ruff collars and
a profusion of tabs and straps down the
front most martial to behold.
Some OF the spring hats are hints to re-
collection. one shape recalls the turban
of hateful memory, disguised though it be
with great black velvet rosette and
black plume on the side Another more CO.
quettish shape, with veil and lace and
egret, has almost the form of a derby with
a much curved briIn tilted well over the
eyes, but 1 do not know how to give it a
name.
The strapped skirt has its dangers. Give
the enemy an inch for strapping and he
may take an ell for drapery. For the mo-
ment, however. ii is very smart A stitch
ed strap runs down the seams of many an
outing skirt, especially in the canvas
weaves, and at it's bottom imps of "trip
perry design that bows of black satin shall
peep out A curious variation is the skirt
hem cut away in alternate squares like the
dainty lace and silk beneath.
The shoulder cape, either the large one
entirely surrounding the figure or the tiny
epaulet Disgusting but one shoulder is in
the top of the mode. They are made of
chiffon or lace-edged silk and sometimes
have answering frills at elbow and wrist
each repetition a trif1e smaller, like the
diminduendo of an echo.
White duck or canvas, even white al
paca or serge will be much worn in the
outdoor season. now not so far away.
The medium sized hat will be in the
spirit if not the letter of the SO mode Ex-
treme size is discouraged, but is always
admissible, except when worn at theater,
if the wearer choose.
A new wrinkle in hat braids is a fiber of
wood known as wood silk not unlike
rough tissue paper. Ellen Osborn.