The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-01-12

bali clad in rich ivory satin, the neck of
which was outlined with sable, which also
formed girdle. No other trimming APP
peared on the gown which was considered
one of the most beautiful worn.
Another excellent dress was made like
the illustration, and was also of brocade,
the ground OF q grayish green, the roses in
many shades OF pink. The lining was of
rose silk; as you see only small amount
of lace trims the waist. 1t is most difficult
to convey any adequate idea OF the beauty
OF the fabric as the truly wonderful bro
cades of to-day must be seen 10 be appre-
Ciated.
A pretty girl poured tea" one afternoon
last week, attired in one of the newest
silks, which recalled those worn by our
grandmothers, for it had stripes of green
and pink that shaded into gold and violet
/ tones. 1t was made with plain, farng
skirt and full, quaint bodice. There was
no collar and the gown opened in V-shape
for an inch or two at the throat. A fichu
OF the finest chiffon, frilled with lace. was
! knotted at the bust line, the long ends ex-
/ tending to within few inches of the bot
tom OF the skirt. At the throat the fichu
was fastened with brooch Of pale pink
coral, set in green enamel.
A pretty woman quite spoiled the effec-
tlveness. OF her tailor gown the other day,
/ by wearing with it a little French bonnet
and high-heeled shoes. Things should be
IN keeping, and with a tailor gown one
associates sensible walking-shoes, heavy
gloves and proper walking-hat.
The stylish young matron from Baltimore
when attired in tailor gown is a model
which many might copy to their advan-
tage. In the evening she is no less "the
mold OF fashion and the glass of form, J"
! but at present | am speaking of tailor
/ made things, which are worthy of our
/ consideration, for most of US find one such
gown, at least, necessity every winter,
/ as only when so clad can we face the wind
or rain without loss of style
/ l cannot but wonder that more women
are not helpless invalids or in their graves
when | see the number who insist, at all
seasons or the year, on wearing paper
soled shoes. Such soles do not even pro
tect the feet from the cold ground, much
less from dampness. However, physicians
and all the sensible people in the world
might give advice in some cases without a
particle OF effect. l only know this much.
that at one time wore the thinnest OF soles
and had delightful colds and NEURALGIA
now L have neither, but my shoes are never
ugly nor clumsy, for l have not found it
necessary to wear hideous shoes in order
to have proper soles.
This week | give illustration of two
waists. The low cut one is, as you OBJ
serve, made very simple, as it depends on
the beautiful trimming for its air OF nov
city. The trimming consists of a mingling
apparently, OF pink pearls and emeralds
strung on thread of gold. OF course
they are limitations, but very satisfactory
ones indeed, and are very exquisite fall
ing as they 40 over the white satin. The
skirt Is OF ;he satin and absolutely plain.
The other Is of pearl gray satin with a
deep collar effect of red velvet, over which
IS appllqued costly lace, making really
chic waist and very useful one as we'll
1he wearer is a bright-faced demi- blonde
with dancing brown eyes, so the red is a
welcome touch OF color which reminds
me that on Monday evening I went to the
Baldwin Theater and saw Marie Vain
wright. There were any number of
women present attired in light waists, the
usual skirts, and the bonnets and hats
were OF all ykinds-good, bad and indiffer-
/ ent.
One of the SWEETEST bonnets was worn by
a striking brunette, and was OF a rich red
velvet. A narrow band of the velvet stud
! ded with fine rhinestones rested on her
hair; about an inch and a half further
back was the soft velvet crown. In front
arose an admirable white fluffy aigrette.
The pink and pinky-pink hats in the
neighborhood of that bonnet all had an
old faded look. A handsome bonnet, evil
IDENTIFY from Paris, was of very unusually
fine jet, quite the best l have ever seen. A
few choux of lace and two or three exqui-
site yellowish roses prevented it from
being in the least stiff.
There were bonnets with silver crowns
with gold crowns-indeed, with almost
every kind OF crown you can think Of; but
very many of them were far from new.
One refreshingly dainty hat was OF white
chenille with three or four short black os-
trich plumes. Another, worn by girl in
sweet little waist of fluffy blue chiffon,
looked like the wings of some large brown
bird. They were perched on pretty
brown head with excellent effect
AS for the waists, well, several OF them
merited the adjectives frumpy and dowdy.
About those | have nothing to say, except
ing that [ trust they may soon be con-
eral fresh and fashionable. One of corded
white silk was well embroidered in let:
another had the body of pompadour silk OF
greenish hue covered with roses in dull