New-York tribune., 1896-11-29
HINTS FOR FISH DAY.
THE LITTLE sMELT AND ALL THE WON
DERFUL QUALITIES THAT MAKE III oO
VALUABLE 4 TABLE DELICACY.

IL
n, all the little fishes that swim in the sea there
"a ono superior to all its fellows Its flesh exuoes
the fragrance of violes. The little smelt Is one OF
tho smallest Of the salmon family. ana one Vi '''
choicest Of all fish for food
II belongs to the winter market. and is not III
prime condition until December or January ""o"
the choicest green" smelts come to market from
the Rhode Island and Massachusetts, coasts. Inc
common frozen smelt, which Is sent from Cahiua
TO this city In great refrigerated blocks Is cheap
but inferior fish, a smet frozen for gourmet Is
n smcIt spoiled The delicious violet fragrance
has disappeared, and the delicate flavor Oh ."o
fish is gone forever. There are few foods "no'
lose more by freezing than smolts. but all LOCUS
lose something OF their delicate distinctive us'e'
The fashion OF rofrigeraing so many Hiirhc'
supplies Is fast reducing the variety on our 'aD'es
to one general flavor, monotonous as aawduSt
Tho green smelt Is so called to Distinguish IL
from the frozen fish. which Is vended In the slree'
at 10 cents a pound. Green smelts are si'e'y'
shining fish. with full eyes. which proclaim them
fresh from tho They are sold generaIly III
80 cents n pound. The sooner they are cooked
after they leave the ocean. the more delicious the
favor Of the flesh and the mole marked tho violet
There are many delicious ways Of cooking this
lltto fish besides tho conventional one OF skewer-
ing their tails In their mouths SO that they form
little rings and then frying them Reject Sroth the
smeits With a keen, slender bladed penknife, split
the fish and loosen the spnes from the flesh ana ana
spoonfuls OF the sweetest olive oil with nall d,,
asPoonlu Of salt and t,s white Prpfbr them S out
Nat on a double broier Tho head and tail are
before S' IT is split open Broii them glowing
Goals for about three minutes turning them &c 1c-
| mandc. lallandaise or Bearnase .,o, a.,
| For the latter sauce chop fine one shallot, add
bowl ard mosten them with two taolespoonru1s ,b oyun
tba xr has
sorbed. Put two tablespoonfuls OF butter In the
warm bowl with the shallot and beat II until us ~ Is
thoroughly and add the Favored butter by desrees
sso SIX hs arsps Of vds STIR It in
bowl that Is set in pan OF boiling water until
s ess Seater Il %i require @ about three minutes
cooking after which strain over the broiled srneIts
| # on a grafin Gich in a rich sauce. Bone twelve
good sized nsh and that they are wiped per
aFGy anl f'1m e Hh ash Ike Is h 0' half
| just IT comes from the ishmongors yet sucn
| cooks on the tables OF mistresses too ignorant OF
culinary mas5s ssa 10 %s the he boSad The
cep,ion is when the 1-h Is stuffed with forcemeat
monger. No use is made OF these eggs by the best
cooks. Close the nsh up after oonng them, Lay
| French dish is Of copper. plated with silver 50
| that the fish can h@ served In II on the table II
gratn dlsh IN ori'r to secure success in the maxi
ing but II l. necessary to have dish Of copper or
| "A conductor of heat should be- used.
Brown on. small minced onion md half a minced
| shalloi IN butter. add three mushrooms chopped
nne season this with salt and pepper and pinch
| o, unralry. Add a ylassfu OF pale sherry and a
half pint cupiul oi rich Spanish sauce. TO which a
| dOz.u mushrooms have been added. Pour the
| sauce over th" tsh. arranged ~ Hat as poSsbl ,
| on the rratiu dish. Add few bits Of melted
| butter and sprinkle hicadcrumhs lightly over all.
when the nsn have been Drowned In hot oven
| for nftcrn twenty minutes they VIII b" done.
| Sprinkle quickly them the juice Of half "A
| lemon. sircw with little minced parsley and
| serve IN tn" dish they were baked In.
10 stun the sm.lts wash and clean them well.
| but do not bone them or split them open Re-
| move the contents -. til" stomach ana rms" ana
| wipe them carefully Prepare n iorccmcat OF a
! pound Of bass which has been freed from
| skin and bones. Found the fish In a mortar. add
| the whites OF three Season the mixture with
| a few minced mushrooms. II you wish. and moistru
| with "A half cupful OF cream. This forcemcat should
| a few moments. Rub II through PURGE sieve and
| MI each Of the FISH. using paper comet 10 do 50.
| Season with salt and pepper. Lay the FISH a
| iuitcrcd gratin dish and pour over them rich
| saIce made as follows:
| Brown a small minced shallot I'm "A tcaspoonful
| Of butter: add four minced mushrooms and toa-
| spoonful of lean boiled ham. cut In dice. Add n
glass OF Madeira and let the vegetables simmer for
| five minutes: then add cup OF rich sauce E--
| pagnoe Let the sauce boil up once and then
| pour the fish. Bake them In hot oven
| ten fifteen minutes. covering them with paper
n there is danger OF their bcing scorched Squeeze
| the Juice OF IA lemon over them and serve tho
| gratin dish tho moment they are done.