The herald., 1896-06-14

and spotted IN almost every hue, and so
silky that they we'll rival the best silk
All shades OF violet are much worn, and
In prunes we have an endless range. from
the deepest plum blue picked cabbage
shade to purple-v!olets without a tinge Of
red.
As regards trimmings. flowers OF lace in
deep creams arc applique on black tulle
or silk muelin; in fact. there is tendency
to havs The body OF the trimmings black.
For evening wear colored pearls and dia-
monds or precious stones are sewn on
bands Of tulle, which are either fr!nged
with ostrich feathers or frothy ruchings
Of tulle. There can be no doubt about
tulle "reigning' this season. for the shops
are absolutely filled with It IN every shade.
It Is. OF course, undoubtedly dainty and
exquisite, but, unfortunately, most fragile.
For town wear 1t means bodice being
retrimmed for every different social func-
ton II IS to be worn at. therefore. I ad-
wise the sparing use of tulle where the
purse is limited.
Black velvet. IN conjunction with tiny
steel or diamond buckles, makes an ap-
propriate trimming to use on the new
gowns A 1udicious amount OF steel 1s
being introduced into passementerie. and
lace will, Of course. be worn as much as
ever. Grass lawn embroidery will, how
ever. replace 1t In many cases.
Perforated leather galloons. embroidered
with cannetinne metallic threads. will form
very effective trimming for light cloth
dresses. and a touch Of white about the
collar and wristbands is absolutely 1nds-
peneible for smart gowns, while even an
ordinary cloth dress now requires the addi-
ton CT fancy passementerie and lace TO
make II look anyway smart.
Tho lining of the skirt is much more
complicated than of yore. for many are
made separate from the skirt. which means
double work. Also. as so much OF frou-
frou and ruching Is required at the foot OF
the skirt. deal of silk must perforce en-
ter its composition. Many people shrink
from the expense Of horsehar as an inter-
lining; but If 1t is not used very fine
flexible steel becomes en- absolute neces-
sity, otherwise the godet folds Will assume
very pointed appearance.
An important Introduction into dress
making is the new train-that Is sep
arate train worn over the under dress. OF
which the front breadth is alone visible.
1t is needless to say that this Is purely
Louis XVI. style, and which will therefore
recessitate handsome silks and brocaces.
1t is often made all in one with the bodice.
after the fashion OF a princess dress, or 1t
assumes Watteau plait In the back. With
such gowns the perfectly fat. old-fashioned
sleeve is almost a necessity, and which
ends at the elbow, with a very full fouEce
OF lace, headed by thick ruching OF cut
silk, the bodice being cut square with
deep pointed stomacher.
The craze for imitation diamonds and
jewels sewn on TO iace. tulle or material
bids fair tc become vuleariZed, which seems
pity. Unfortunately the jewels are now
being made il cheap qualities. ard cards
of them at very moderate prices are much
selling in all the shops. Let us hope We do
not end our rage for jewels and beads by
looking like South Sea savages. bu: 1t Is
very difficult to get anything select when
imitation Is SO rife. However. the very
newest vogue for imitation jewelrg is blue
steel; brooches, hat pins, and buckles are
made Of 1t. mixed with diamonds, and the
color is beautiful azure.
Softening effects arc neing introduced
even into the shirts, which are divested Of
the hard collars and crnsmerted with throat