The San Francisco call., 1896-12-25

great city wants arc plenty of pleasant
and handsome buildings where the luxu-
rious appointments of good establish
ment can be had, gracing really scientific
cookery and well-chosen edibles, and to be
able to command these, not as matter of
everyday habit, but at choice of occasions,
and with the certainty of getting the best
entertainment possible for the expendi-
ture. There is universally acknowledged
charm experienced very often in nice
dinner eaten away from home with agreea-
Bile company. This is such an established
fact that everybody will accept it. The ap-
petite jaded and Ianguid at the family ma
hogany returns by magic amid the bright
surroundings. pretty dresses and cheerful
chatter of the public dining-room. Cares
are forgotten, friendships are cemented or
renewed, business is well settled and plans
happily formed under the magic wand of
good caterers and skillful cooks, with none
of the trouble and confusion of an elabor-
ate entertainment in the house. So all
important is it to the welfare OF great
city for it's inhabitants to be able at will
to dine we'll that those capitalists are
positive benefactors to their time and
kind whose enterprise takes the course OF
improving the machinery and the ma
terial for furnishing good dinners to all
| and sundry.
The recently built restaurants have be-
gun to make it possible to dine decently
outside club or private mansion. One
| wants a little splendor at dinner away
| from home, as well as pretty crystal and
| snowy linen and swift, tranquil attend
ance. Music. too, is welcome at such a
time, for it dignIfies even plain fare, as
the poet sings. ITO eat roast mutton to
the sound of trumpets." Certainly the
opening of fresh establishments of this
| kind is good news to the Londoner. Apart
| from the successful Inauguration OF new
| place of pleasure and rejection, where
he car break the monotony of his
| old-accustomed haunts, and perhaps
| find new ideas in the old-fashioned
| menus, the uprise of the Trocadero
| from the deplorable ashes of the by-gone
dancing and music saloon will put exist
| ing establishments on their mettle and in
| eyitabiy raise the standard of public en-
| tertainment The Trocadero in turn if it
fourishes as may be expected will have
rivals striving to outdo its excellence in
viands and festaI surroundings. We well
| come this emulation.
1t is most legitimate and useful form
| of modern luxury, for the science of right
| cooking and proper use of the dietetic
| gifts of nature spreads around downward
| and the watchful wife, who dined well aud
| wisely in the com pany of her lord in such
| a sumptuous palace, will never again
scare him from the domestic board with
| cold mutton or careless pudding:
also the multiplication of such we'll
equipped and handsomely endowed places
| of pleasure and refreshment for the mid
| die classes makes London more and more
| attractive AM agreeable as q city of resi-
dence, which is what should be steadfastly
aimed at. We are only as yet at the be-
| ginning of the art of ameliorating the life
| of her swarming citizens. For all classes
| in their turns there is much to do, and
much that may and should be done. We
| are on the right road when private capital
seeks profit by first gaining pubic appro-
baton and flavor. That programme is,
| we believe almost boundless, for, in pro-
portion as caterers and managers study
to please and to serve Londoners, there
| is almost nothing too large or remunera-
tive to expect from the exhautless re-
sources of a metropolitan public well
| treated and we'll satished.-London Tele-
| o,~h