The Houma courier. (Houma, La.) 1878-1939, 1896-11-21

to form a ground over which a network
of dark blue was woven.
"This piece" said madame, will be
used to make a skirt which is not yet
cut. The skirt will have five gores-a-
narrow front, two wide side cores and
two narrow back cores. Haircloth will
stifcn it about 10 inches up. and it will
be lined throughout with a gold and
blue tafeta. The skirt will fit smooth
lyacross the front. but the side and the
laaek pores XIII .h&aaidesn four stiff
platts. The plaitS VIII TeUpfn-Ls-
shape down the entire length of the
skirt.
$50 much for the skirt. Now let me
show you the bodice"
She showed it It was nearly finished
and its beauty fascinated me.
The back ended at the waistline and
was plain, save for a soft, blue velvet
girdle that was laid from one side seam
to the other. In front, a band of broad,
yellow lace, over white mousseline de
sole, formed a yoke. The mousseline
continued to the waistline, turning un-
der at the belt with a blouse effect. At
the sides were double jacket fronts,
those underneath being of blue velvet,
while the top pieces were of the dress
material. Toward the center the Jacket
fronts ended in sharp points that fell
seven inches below the belt, but fin
ished on the waistline at the sides.
The sleeves had small puffs above the
elbow land fell over the hands in points
that were filed in with m~ousseline de
sole.
begged madame to tell meAthe cost Of
this gown, and she gave me the follow
ing prices. Seven yards of material, at
$1.s5 per yard; one-half yard of lace, at
90 cents per yard; ~ yards of velvet.
$3.50; lining, $12; making, $27.75. The
entire cost of this costume was there
fore but s36.35.
Bodices are now made with seamless
backs, the proper sit of which it is most
difficult to secure. A dressmaker con-
siders it the highest art to be able to
turn out a seamless back without the
sign of a wrinkle, although the backs
are, of course, fitted over many scanned
Innings.
Yet many bodices, particularly those
OF thin materials, r still softly gath
cred at the waist. Such q garment has
just been turned out by n of New
Ycrk's fashionable modistes, and, al
though very simple, is worthy of men
ton.
Green tafEeta is used as a foundation.
Over it, gathered both front and back,
Is warp-printed black silk g~renadine.
Since the owner of the bodice is rather
stout, it extends slightly below the
waist, where it finishes with a narrow
fold Of green velvet A large bow Of
the velvet in the back and asmall onein
front beautify the waistline.
A jeweled band crosses the bust.
Here, again, a slight modification is
made in the original design t over
come the Objectionable stoutness. The
Jeweled band is not laid straight r
but forms i'll the center q very blunt
angle, hardly perceptible to the casual
observer. The band ends in very full
bows of velvet.
The sleeves are mousquetaire to the
shoulder, and have scant pufs at the
shoulder seams. An immense bow ut
the back of the stock collar is entirely
made of ends of ribbon.
Another charming bodice, this time
with q seamless back, is intended for
street wear by a more slender person.
Snuif-brown cloth. criss-crossed with
d~ark-brown silk threads. is used in it's
designing. The neck ruche vest and
lower sleeves are Of mousseline de sole.
matching the ground color. Brown
silk. dotted here and there with span
giles, forms the upper slocye pufs. and