Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-10-10

through The haZy air upon 1t, CLOVIS ana
flashes in such a triumph of color as al
most to redeem its formess uSiiness.
The jacket Idea.
There is almost no limit to the use OF
the jacket idea in autumn gown design
ing. The jacket is seldom a real one, dis
ISOLATED from its gown, but merely pair
of wings stitched into the side seams and
rounded or pointed to jacket shape in
front. AS pretty a model as any is a gem
in the cigar-brown tint which has been
yogued by the latest royal trousseau in
Great Britain. The skirt is simply cut
and the vest Is muslin confined by wide
black satin belt and collar. The bolero is
silk covered with crffee colored lace and.
instead of being rounded off at the corners,
it is brought down to two points IN front.
Another pointed bolero is shown in a
gown OF the very latest Paris cut. 1t also
is red. rich crimson China crepe, gathered
over darker silk at f, ont and sides. The
skirt is cut with an apron, trimmed with
black insertion confined by ruchings of
black mousSelne de sole, running from the
waist down to a panel gore on the left and
continued around the apron as a border.
The bodice is gathered black mOusseiine
under iolero of the crepe, cut to point
ard trimmed like the skirt. The belt is q
wide satin ribbon, and the cuffs are cylin-
ceis OF the Chantilly with mousseline
edges.
Perhaps the prettiest fabrics of the au-
tUmn are those reddish brown mixtures
which present a warm appearance tenn
pered with threads of black. and trimmed
and faced with black. If the complexion
will stand it, that is the chic cOmbiuatio
of the moment.
The new sleeve is in a bad way In its
present form it consists of tight, wrin-
killed. Pipe up nearly to the shoulder where
ridiculous little puff conceaIs or accentu-
ates it. As it is. it IS ugler than the lego
mutton sleeves of two years age and inf
nitely inferior to the plain, old-fashioned
sleeves that swept round the shoulder
clinging close all the way.
Much use Is made of fiuted crepe You
see 1t upon the epaulets of gowns, trimmed
with edges of lace. The backs of bodices
are made of lines of it. in which case it is
generally confined by a broad satin belt.
The New Hats.
Hats are higher crowned than ever. Some
of the new crowns are also smaller in cir
cumference, suggesting the contour of a
dice box.
There are cunning little toques which
have for all decoration pert ribbon bows.
SIX and satin of gay tint, tortured ND into
twin cathedral SPIRES where the bias-cut
ends of the ribbon come to lofty points
The wearer of one of these charming heac
coverings l noted on 23d street today was
further clad in a magnificent blouse waist
in silver-gray silk, wherein was placed
snowy ornamentation of black velvet rib
pom IhlS Was crisS-crossed at waist and
belt like lattice work, and was otherwise
sewn UP the bust and along the shoulders
IN panels inclosing exquisite embroidery
The toque was as fragile as the waist, but
that is nothing.
There has been little Cloak weather
thus far, but some time there shall be-
and meantime 1t is well to remember tina:
the very elegant and dressy effects of las
year Will be again seen. Smart little capss
worked all over with white embroidery in
patterns and hung with the furry tails OF
animals are one variety. Another has gor-
gon-hke heads of impossible beasts as boss
es upon the bust, and huge festoons of Jet
suspended from them. There are British
! capes of box cloth, double-breasted, with
| large buttons, revers and high collars. and
heavily stitched seams. There are cloaks
and jackets which make a pretty use OF
! leather garniture.
Some of the more fanciful models have
wide frontal flap. opening away over on
the left shoulder, with huge arabesques 81
braid worked thereon and big rosettes OF
futed chiffon what not.
Altogether, one can hardly be more BIZ
zarre than the modes of the season.
ELLEN OSBORN.