Omaha daily bee., 1896-10-18

ltdNntI tUlDUtbtu with urpSSeN KID IN
lighter shade. The neck was finished with
one Of the high fuu collars that are a fea-
ture OF all the wraps this season, rufted
higher again with black chiffon and decked
at the back with a stock bow OF black satin
ribbon. The sleeves were loose cape affairs
OF the seal, hanging rather short to show
madiening urdersleeyes OF the leather, fitted
with a band at the wrist Finally at each
side OF the vest there was blouse effect OF
Killed black chiffon. anl hanging over the
whole werc three heavy Jet chains fastened
at each side OF the Eton fronts with hand
some round ornaments. The result was en-
chanting-and suited TO only the slimmest
woman in the world
Plain, full capes short and waist length.
are much seen In Persian lamb, and are
useful purchases where only one fur gar
ment can be afforded.
All have invariably the high Medici collar
that turns UP about the ears In coolest
weather and the majority OF the Innings
with these are in black or sensible wearing
eolors.
FASHIONABLE CAPEs.
The fancy capes are extremely magnificent
where their Innings are concerned these
running 10 pale brocades In superb weights
and often finished at the bottom with a
narrow quilting OF the same or else one of
rich lace. Where the tail of the garment
is sljshed. In gothic points or squares. as
is frequently the case, a fringe of soft odd
looking lace underneath, or chiffon killed
"'N uotoiSu, VIII Olltu peep out through the
openings At the neck the high collar
OF the fur will be rufied again with chiffon.
and the front will show tabs OF rich lace
and knots OF Russian violets. One dashing
little cape so designed was OF broadtail, the
delcate baby lamb, with a tiny quilting
OF black tulle edging the bottom of the
white brocade lining.
Another OF the curled lamb itself had
gored yoke OF white kid each gore pointed
at the bottom and outlined narrowly with
the lamb.
few OF the short capes are adjusted
gracefully back and front to the figure.
wide belt of beaded galoon or white en-
broidered kid being used for this purpose
And no matter how heavy the fur of these
elegant shoulder wrappings, for they ar,
scarcely more, tulle. chiffon and lace will
appear on them somewhere, the combination
giving look OF coquettish softness invalu-
able to the sex, and impossible to fur
alone.
SMART JACKETS.
When In the shape OF Jackets the new furs
are mainly without trimming though some
| Will be ornamented with a contrasting skin
| and few will show vests OF white kid on
the embroidered leather mentioned An i'm
ported model in seaskin, which by the way
| is again in fashionable favor, has wide
| reyers, collar and pointed cuffs OF the brown
| Kid beautifully perforated and embroidered.
| Two or three big jeweled buttons fastening
a ioost uOublt-DTtdSttu SdCQue, or hOlQlng a
| close one at the waist over a vest will ap-
| pear on other imported models. Then IL
/ there is a brown or white kid vest there
may be little jabot OF lace at the throat.
| though for the most part the fur jackets are
designed toward an eye for real usefulness
| more than folderol effect.
Sealskin is most frequently used alone
but many OF the Jackets in Persian lamb
| and broadtail will have handsome vests
and perhaps others trimmings of ermine.
| A coat with an ermine vest. illustrated is
| OF silken Persian, which is that beautiful
waved skin OF the very young animal. Moire
| antique, or watered silk, is said to have
been copied from this rare and expensive
| skin, and which is one OF the most effective
| OF the Persian lamb family. Broadtail Is
taken from the still younger animal, and
| though delightful to wear and look at is as
expensive as perishable.
In design the newest OF the fur Jackets
are fitted at the back and half loose at the
front, with vest. The sleeves are small
gigots, and instead OF the old rippled effect
OF the TAIL the fullness at the back is
generally distributed in two in-turning plaits
One handsome Persian jacket seen at a
smart place had scarcely any fullness in
the basque, slight fare at the hips and
back giving the required ease at these
points. At the furriers' 1t WITS learned
that this method OF cutting was approved
by the swell set. In other words to have
| much fullness at the back OF your fur coat
was TO tell the world that you had bought
1t at cheap place and were not up to snu1
| and fur etiquette. So subtle and damning
! are the ways OF fashion.
TRIMMED WITH FUR.
Many Of the cloth Jackets are fur
| trimmed. and among the imported novelties
| there are some ravishlng combinations in
| fur and velvet.
splendid model in chinchilla had loose
short sacque of the fur and draued sleeves,
. Tim alr IL,
vet. visite OF extreme elegance was in
| a brilliant shade OF marine blue velvet with
| bands of imperial Russian sable that noble
and priceless skin once reserved for royal
| women alone. This is also here pictured
| Loose cape sleevs distinguish many of
| the coats. and here and there some Iaiaty
| odd model in seal or broadtail will have
| a vest of velvet or kid in q gay color,
swathed at the waist with a broad belt of
| black MORE. But these are only novelties,
| ornaments for showcases, and conspicuous
| things to keep away from II one is limited
| in wardrobe and funds.
In other materials jackets will be the
| wraps more worn than capes, but beCause
| OF the clumsiness Of an all-fur coat as well
as its expense, more fur capes are being
| shown than jackets.
Collars abound in a multitude OF shapes
| and tails" are more in evidence than ever
| The short cravattes, worn so much last
| season. are seen again, but instead of being
slhSio Shlh WIN q utduI ldll Ie6t as
| foI merly, they are now finished with a
number OF tails, from three to seven, at
| each side. At the back OF the neck the
| broad band is curved and made to turn
| up in coolest weather; the fronts fasten
without laIping and hang down straight
stole fashion. Some vast Coils" meant to
be worn with plain tailor gowns, are cut
with a point at the back reaching almost
to the waist; an inch covers the shoulders
or else they are quite short there and at
the front there are narrow stole ends that
reach almost TO the bottom of the skirt
| Collars of these are also high and rolling
| but Instead OF the round edges OF last season
| the fronts now turn back in sharp points
| The long stole ends of other fur collets will
| be covered with innumerable tails too
many to be counted and scarcely a dainty
| lace neck fixing is to be seen without its
| complement OF sable or mink tails, mingled
rougishly in the jabot front as outlining
the edges OF gay ribbons
FOR THE HANDS
Nuns have developed to astonishing pro-
portions and are seen in round and fancy
fiat shapes. The newest muff of the seaso.
is vast round affair. designed for carriage
use, and made in all the sables Russian.
Hudson Bay and Alaska. round one for
street use in popular favor is medium sized
between the great big ones and those OF
last winter-and is plainly lined with black
satin. Together with a cravatte to match
fur sets with mum OF this sort may be had
hom SIS up.