The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-06-28

This very picturesque frock here repro
duced has skirt of exceptionally rich,
soft white silk with bodice OF the same
yelled in fchu of white chiffon. The
| sacque-backed Elton coat is of black satin,
and the folded sash of crimson silk. The
black bonnet has bows of the crimson.
This toilette was worn al large charity
bazaar, and it will doubtless suggest in
various combinations some valuable ideas.
The jaunty Elton jacket model is being
made up for numberless slender women in
various fabrics. The cut must be faultless
to insure an air Of style.
Black mousseline de sole, exquisitely
painted by hand, is in great vogue; also
made over colored or glace silk. One I
am delighted with is covered with grace
full punches of wistaria and is made over
| glace silk which shades and CLEANS like
great opal. The vest has innumerable
rufles of black m ousseline de sole, edged
with real lace of a creamy hue. Shaded
sequlns give the necessary touch. This
is a costly garment and one which will be
chic until the end of summer.
All long sleeves in Paris have a short puff
and are tucked to the waist. The only ex-
ception to this rule is in the coat and
skirt combination; in it the sleeves are
slightly full and dropping. Evening bod
ices have long points in front. No fashion
able woman is now seen wearing white
gloves in the daytime, lemon-colored kids
being in demand, as we'll as all soft shades
in suede kid. The tulle bow is a thing of
the past.
To sum up the fashions of France of the
hour. AS fabric, crepe de Chine is the
idol of the moment; the most popular
color is pale gray; the next moment, l
venture to assert, it will be red; while, as
a combination of colors. blue and violet
hold sway. Skirts are full, sleeves are
small, basques are short, belts are ubiqui-
tous, and even the most captious of critics
could be found to say good word for the
modes of Paris as they are to-day, when
realized by the best artists and worn by
the woman of tact Of course, that there
are other folks who live to caricature
Fashions best laws is an unalterable fact
of existence. 1t is sorry one, but newt
able in free country, where sumptuary
legislation is dead letter.
Truly fetching is tea gown owned by
youthful bride. 1t is composed of a bro
cade having pearl ground, over which
are scattered pale mauve lilacs and green
leaves. Beneath this is worn an empire
dress entirely formed of mauve accordion
pleated silk hanging from yoke of trans
parent lace. Two frills of this accordion
killed silk make the sleeves. Bands OF in
sertion, set transparency, adorn the fronts
of the gown on either side. 1t is mounted
on mauve silk deliberately frilled inside
the hem with mauve and green glace.
This gown is not difficult to make, as the
accordion-kilted silk may be purchased by
the yard. and its great width on woman
of medium height would be found sutfi-
cient to hang from the lace yoke which
just reaches the bust. A few yards of bro
cade will make the back, and the sleeves
are easily mada if the accordion frills are
| used with the narrow uncrushable silk
now to be had. 1t is fact worth noting
that accordion pleating never looks so we'll
on anything as On white, either chiffon or
| silk,
| OF all the dark colors this season. blue,
dark navy, is most worn, and truly attrac-
tive morning gowns are made of this in
| canvas, trimmed with narrow white braid.
! Frequently the bodice has short-tabbed
basque, worn with very narrow white
kid belt or narrow folds of white ribbon.
The ribbon is most effective.
Glace silk continues to enjoy great
vogue, especially in green and white.
Alpaca will soon, predict, be on the
bargain counter, although it has not yet
been given up, as it so perfectly sheds the
dust, and stylish frock of this fabric is of
medium shade of gray. 1t is braided
prettily with white and has front of
white muslin over white silk. With it is
worn, by one of the prettiest girls in the
country, hat of black chip with a grace
full roll of moussellne de sole and a few
black quilts. Very simple you may think,
but it assuredly is charming. wonder
when women will learn the value of a
little soft whiteness near the face. 1t has
such an effect that words cannot do it JUS
tice. Try it if you have not done so al
ready. 1t is most desirable for the women
who have too much color, especially those
who have purplish cast. Positively an
ugly woman may become picturesque if
she will wear soft folds if she is stout, ard
stuff. Dark or dingy tones ali emphasize
an unbecoming amount of color.
| For coat and shirt suits white cam
brio fronts, exquisitely tucked and
| hemstitched, are less expensive than
others, but we must supply ourselves
with at least six of them. The
slight girl looks well with hem
stitched frill down the front and the white
linen collars which turns over each side at
the top seem to have been especially de-
signed for her.
In Vienna white pique riding habits
with white sailor hats are an admired nov
city. The habits are of soft but very thick
pque; the skirt is short, and both jacket
and waistcoat have strapped seams. The
collar of the waistcoat is high and quite