The San Francisco call., 1896-04-12
The Colors and Shades the
Blondes and Brunettes
Should Wear.
PALE BLUE FOR DARK WOMEN.
The Sweet Rose Pink Is for the
Golden.Haired and Gives Them
Lovely Color.

NEW YORK, April 7, 1896. - There
was no doubt about it. She was an
artist in dressma king. But unfortunate
lv for the rest of the world she had in
some way or another inherited millions,
so that she was not dressmaker, and
could only give her friends advice. Most
of them listened and refused to accept it.
1 am among the few who appreciate her.
So, when 1 said "white," she looked at me
and answered: "On you? With your
pale face? Never, unless you have it in
some soft, woolen stuff, which will seem to
drape you and make soft folds, forcing the
white to seem caressing, whereas If it were
in silk or satin you would appear like a
frightened corpse chasing around in search
of your past sins. Women don't consider
fabrics enough; they seem to think that If
they get a color that is becoming all is at
tanned; and yet, take stout woman and
put her in black satin-she looks three
times her 1876 pounds. Put her in black
cashmere, or black cloth, properly made,
and you speak of her as plump, and won
der that anybody ever called her fat.
Then there is blue-people have an
idea that every young girl can wear it. 1t
makes the dainty blonde maiden, who
ought to look like one of Watteau's young
wonderland they are, always excepting
their waists. perfect representatives OF
health-look like frozen lady, a lady who
might have been picked up at the north
pole. Here there is no question OF fabric;
pale blue belongs exclusively to the bru-
nette. 1t has curious way, even If the
brunette has a sailow skin, of making that
skin look less sallow and more olive.
Pink, the veritable sweet rose color, fades
when 1t is put on brunette. From the
color standpoint, she is too strong for it,
while on the blonde it retains all its own
beauty, makes her cheeks glow. brings out
the gold of her hair, while the blue OF her
eyes. by contrast, match the June sky.
You are the type that want red-brilliant,
glowing red. Not crimson, not purplish
red, but the clear, bright red that Is always
the envy of the Quakeress. A bit of it in
your hat makes your eyes brighter, makes
your dull hair glossier, ana sheds, uncon-
sciously, a shadow of itself on your pale
checks. The average woman doesn t value
red as she should. There ought to be a set
of red rosettes in the chest of drawers in
every wOman's dressing-room, for there
always comes day when she needs them.
"Black? Black, like white is the refuge
OF the afflicted, and yet, how smart black
tailor made gown isl How elegant black
velvet dinner dress Isl And how beauti-
ful black tulle, spangled with gold be-
comes when it is worn by the belle of the
ball! l have never been able to agree with
the elder Worth in his dislike of black.
He claimed that black in bringing out
beauties also brought out defects, and
that elderly women who wore it simply
intensified their lack of youth and the
mum ber of their wrinkles.
''Oh, yes; l remember very well when
you wrote and asked him to send you q
black dinner dress. And there arrived a
black satin, elaborate with rosettes and
trim mings, that shaded from rose pink to
deep magenta. And you wept. And wept
bitterly. And wore the frock but once,
and felt the night you wore it th at if it had
been ripping stream. near some town,