The morning times., 1896-05-03
COOL SUMMER WAISTS.
Styles i'm Smart New BodiceS
riade of Airy Fabrics.

New York, May 1.-Direct descendant of
the spencer body, the shirt waist has for
six seasons or more made all wCmankiHd
happy. Nothing so cool aud neat for sum-
mer wear has been found since the spencer
waslaId on the grave of dead grandmothers,
and il is really to this estimabIe old gar
mcnt that we owe the later Invention.
Its t-granddaughter, the shirt waist,
was originally Intended for plain uses, but
some OF the later ones are taking On such
fine airs that shirt waist seems a misuomer.
III general outline, with the exception
that bishop sleeves take the place of
the old gigots, the new shirt bodies diff
fer ~ 40 great degree from those Of last
season. They have tine same pointed yokes
az The back and the fronts slightly gathered
or laid IN three mario W, presse d down plaits
each side of the button hem.
The cuffs, however, are now Of the
same material as the waist and the white
turnover collars are no longer sc wed on.
They are made detachable to admit Of
several changes, the waist OutIdsting, OF
course, the collar in freshness, and are
worn with u narro " mannish bow tie.
With shirt waists strictly for morning
use, those of percaIe, cambric and cheviot.
stylish variation of the white collar is
stiff stock and little boz tie made OF the
waist material. This last detail however
is not Il frequent accompaniment TO the
ready-made article, but is fashioned to
order by the shirt makers.
ParasoI tu match thes-wash waist,
whatever its material, is al lsOin high feather
and by skillful manipulation may be as
easily laundered.
n The cuffs Df all Of the sleeves are less
deep than formerly and are held together
by Ink fastenings, and trim sort in these
are round Pearl buttons to initiate those in
front.
The prettiest and most cocky shirt waist
of the season, though, is the one made Of
some fragile textile
BatlSteS, dinnties and la WINS, striped
plain and figured all over, make some OF
tie most useful OF these and becoming
point with many or them is TO have the
collar and cuffs of a solid color.
For the smarter affairs white cwiss,
figured dotted, plain ur ribbon-striped
Is an effective and elegant material.
Again, the swiss may be in large checks
or small ones, or, perhaps, be seif-stTiped
with "A dainty embroidery OF dots or figures
In colOred silk between
one or the novelty textures used for these
dreSsy waists is a curious linen batiste.
tOweling.
! The background Of this is a pale mahog-
| any-bTown. IN a web as thin as grenading.
The figures, huge leaves or strange flow
| erS, are white and are raised up with all
! the thFcady loops Of the familiar bath
| towel.
| Then it goes without Sa wing that all the
! plain AMI fancy linens and batistes OF the
/ season arcSeen among the new shirtwaists,
flf ar FfF d fFaf
; lace insertions and open work yOkes and
( collars that they seem fine enough for al
/ most any occasion
/ Many OF the Swiss waists have the necEs
/ finished with the usual stiff collar. But
/ Others and the colored novelty textures
aS well. VIII have ribbon stocks or else
made ones OF white, black or tinted satin,
showing white satin pipings at the edges
| aad the proper narrow tie
! Here endeth the chapter of shirt waistsi
! Still let 1T be added that there are gingEams
] left, and the daiBtiest coolest affairs in
swivel silk, and some plain black or white
satin 5lGuses that are the very newest
/ things from London town. Then there
| is dashing new material called sail
| cloth that will be much used for country
| and yachting waists.
With proper supply OF all these neat
| washable articles one may with three skirts
| alone-a black peau de sole, a brow linen
| hOmeSpun, and Il white duck-effect many
changes of costume, and go through sum-
| mer outing with peace and health.
| And since both the skirts and waists
| may he bought ready made, il is never
! too late TO learn and buy.
Another useful and economical sum-
! mer purchase is one of the little Louis
/ Seize hodices. which are now being made
! in airy summer textiles over rich silk
/ Innings. This graceful little model was
/ found too universally becoming and easily
! accomplished TO be dcue away with, and
/ though some of the new coatS-fOT they
/ are still called Coats-are made OF the
| lightcSt summer materials they have the
! general look of those seen in the spring.
| There are the same short. naring tails
and narrow gold belts. but the thin textures
| lend themselves better to the new s!eevs
| with all their tuCks and ShirrinCs.
| A pair of models given are taken from
! two Louise Seize summer coats Just i'm
| ported. In one, black dotted SwiSS-that
| is white with black dots-iS n novel conn
bination with pink and blue striped silk
| This Is shown in the cut with the round
| woke, which is OF plain white Swiss edged
| with a swirl border of yellow valen
| ciennes insertion.
/ \ very fragile eCru linen batistc, called
| linen chiffon. was the foundation Of an
other Louis Seize bodice. This was com
| bined with corn yellow chiffon. on which
| there Were black velvet applications in
slender willow leaf patterns.
With plain, tight sleeves of this, over
| yellow silk lining. there were short puffs
| OF the linen above crimped and crinkletl
In a highly ornamental fashion.
i This curious crosswise and longitudinal
! Crimping. by the way. is feature of many
| of the new sleeves. but beyond its unique
ness there is. little to be said in its favor.