The San Francisco call., 1896-04-05
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white shirt waists, having little figures or

In every possible shade. They will be
trimmed with lace, and all and every kind
of lace, provided it is good, is in demand.
Irish point is a great favorlte, as is also
Honiton. Paillettes and sequins play an
important part in the newest embroideries.
East and in Europe gauZes are in great
demand, being of most unusual beauty.
Transparent materials over silks will be
universally seen, and loose-fitting fronts
are no longer considered the latest for
bodces.
The latest innovations in silks are the
shaded effects, in which the blurred color
lngs fade into one another, as in rain
bow. There is a novelty in moires-
''moire velours' comes in white,
with green, pink and white blended, or any
other coloring, and is sometimes accom-
panied by white stripes. Matrons con-
tinue to use stamped velvets for dinner
gowns, the colors now being spring-like
and delicate.
A deeper cream, tones of green, many
of them revived from the forties, rich and
pale violet, royal blues, the beautiful
geranium pink, a new shade of vieux rose
and straw-yellow, are all fashionable
colors, and in everything do we see an un-
expected touch of black.
Matrons will use for some of their new
est gowns many yards of the black lisse
now i'll such vogue, which has white lace
sprays let in at intervals and uniting into
consecutive patterns by deep gold pail
lettes, which are also introduced onto the
lace; but newer is white lisse ground
with alternate black stripes, both worked
in tambour stitch, with pretty running
SPRAYS The contrast of black and white
EN- mbellished with soft EN- broldery makes a
beautiful skirt front TO the seasons silks
and in this case the black embroidery is
emphasized by white paste stones scat
tered over it with a liberal hand" Very
effective also is a trellis work of silver
thrown on black.
A few days ago observed pretty slen-
der woman attired in gown made of
cornfower blue facecloth, which had
bodice of silk to match it and belt of
gold galoon on which Jet motifs were
shown at intervals. A toque of corn
flowers was made very attractive with
bow of green and white tulle.
The Partisan evening gown 1 illustrate
to-day is "made in one of the new and
beautiful chine moire veloutines, with a
short lace bolero jacket. embroidered with
paillettes and forming two battlemented
tabs over the large sleeves, which are
caught up with a bunch OF flowers. This
gown is laced at the back and a beautiful
piece of jeweled embroidery borders the
top of the bodice and the front"
The other design should be carefully
noted, as the sleeve is an original design
well worthy of reproduction. 1t completes
fetching" gown.
A princess costume fresh from the hands
of leading dressmaker is in q diagonal
cloth of the new blue gros; it has the
fronts outlined with black silk ruching
and small barrel buttons with little chains
attached to them. The sleeves have the
pulled part striped with the ruching.
A costume of canvas cloth of a warm
cinnamon tan which highly commends it.
self to me is described as having plain
skirt finished on the bottom with q wire
round bodice entering the skirt has a
back of canvas cloth, drawn smoothly over
tight lining. while the front is a blouse
of accordion-pleated cerise and green
changeabe taffeta and fastens on the side
Three half-pointed oval bands of canvas
cloth, fitted over the blouse, SO as to show
the silk IN spaces between, are sewed into
the bodice seams on the right and hook
across to the opposite side. On the upper
end of each band, close to the bodice, six
small pearl buttons are sewed close to-
gether, for ornament. Gigot sleeves long
In the arm of canvas cloth with a
small crescent cut out of the mate
rial of the upper arm, near the
waist, showing a bit of the silk under
meath. AT the end. near the seam, there
is finish OF three small pearl buttons
The pointed canvas girdle has row of six
small buttons on each side, In front. The
with two square tabs twinlng over and un-
der the ear, where the band ends. and is
finished with an upright row of five but
tons. Fine white silk cord laces these but
tons together over a white batiste and lace
bow, formed Of two plisse fans, edged with
lace. These tabs are covered with batiste,
edged with narrow lace. Batste and lace
Vogue advises an ivy-green straw hat,
trimmed with scarfs of gauze, one of
brown ana one of lighter shade of tan.
lovely la France rose is to "upstand
above this bow with foliage" Tan suede
glove and parasol of taffeta silk of two
shades of green complete one of
the most artistic and charming toilettes
imaginable for stylish young woman.
AT most of the large balls given this sea-
son in Paris the dresses have had low bod
ices held up with shoulder straps of dia-
mOnds, flowers, spangled galore, or ribbon
bows. Balloon sleeves appear to have
been given up for such occasions, being re-
placed with cascades of jet falling from
the shoulder-straps or loops of satin rib
cut round and have godets at the back.
Flowers are much used on evening confec-
tions and are gracefully arranged round
the low neck, as shoulder straps or
bretelles, and also round the bottom of
skirts, they are put on straight or fes-
toOned, or spray may start from bow
and extend down the sides Of the tablier
and fall artistically on to the hem of the
skirt.
Pompadour silks and satins are being
used by Felix for ball and evening toilettes.
and for bodices he frequently utlizes tulle
or velvet, and almost without exception
they are made pointed. The dressmakers
may prevail on US to let them trim the
skirts of our evening dresses. but they will
not succeed yet awhile in persuading us to
have our street and calling dress skirts
adorned (0, as our leaders Of fashion have
pronounced ideas Of their own, and are as
independent as their forefathers, and, as
one writer says, at is becoming somewhat
difficult to predict what the American
woman will accept in the way of Styles"
as she fully realizes that she has quite as
much taste as her Partisan sister, although
as yet doubt if she can utilize every scrap
of lace and every bit of silk with quite as
good results, but we are not dependent
on the French any longer for our
fashions-the New York women set the
styles in this country. / have just read an
article which states that great dressmak-
ers are great personages in Paris and are
recognized as having great talent The
press extols them and discusses their crea-
tions,' but in this country no such fuss is
made over them and our press does not
con Stantly relate their trilmphs How