The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1896-03-19

of arms, and talk OF America. L am
never 50 happy as when | find myself
in the presence Of an American cltl-
zen."
On the afternoon Of my arrival the
doctor, his wife, DR.. Crane, and my
self went TO the Spouting Horn, which
is not more than mile and hall
from Koloa. This is one Of the won
ders of Kanai. The ledge of lava-llke
rock which extends over acres along
the seashore, is penetrated by many
caverns into which the waves Of the sea
rush with wonderful force. There is
an orifce in the rock large enough for
an ordinary man to crawl through, and
the water, driven in by the surf, is
forced through this hole, sometimes to
the height of sixty feet. The expulsion
of water is accompanied by hollow
roar as the air is forced through an APP
perlure near the horn. Near the horn
is a large rock known as The Pulpit,
and about one hundred PAGES in an
opposite direction is the Boiling Ket-
tie, which is simply large hole in
which the water is continually rush
ing in and out, just like boiling water.
Next day we visited the Golgotha,
or "Place OF Skulls" about two miles
from Koloa and almost north Of the
village. This is great sandy beach
on which, according to Professor Alex
ander, the acknowledged authority on
Hawaiian history, severe battle was
fought in the fourteenth century. The
beach is strewn with human bones, and
many perfect skeletons have been taken
fom the sands With the aid of DR..
Goodhue | was enabled to discover one
of the skeletons, and dug out skull
with all the parts perfect. The re-
mainder of the skeleton | turned over
to DR.. Crane. Tho this skull had
lain in the sands five hundred years it
was perfect, except that the teeth were
gone. 1t was the Uranium of large
man, and in places quite thin. He
had had blow on the top of his head
during his life, for there was an linden
taton in the skull which was strongly
suggestive of trepanning. Two skele
tons were exhumed by our party that
day. The next day we were to start
for the Hanapepe Falls.
Our road led over beautiful Coun
try. We crossed the Laval and Kali
ahao valleys, and at about eleven
O'Clock reached the Hanapepe valley
following it for five or six miles when
we came to the end of the carriage
road. Our party, consisting OF DR..
Goodhue and wife, DR.. Crane, Mr..
X. Farley, myself, and two servants,
then mounted horses and started up
one of the most picturesque valleys 1t
has ever been my pleasure to see. The
path wound along the bottom of the
valley, crossing the stream number
of times. The water, in places, came
quite to the saddle glrths, the bottom
covered with stones slippery and dan
| gerous to all horses not very sure
| footed. On either side rose perpen
Gcular bluffs to the height of several
! hundred feet.
| The scenery along the valley, like
all scenery in Hawaii, is picturesque
and varied, constantly changing like
the views in a kaleidoscope. The
rugged hills and cliffs are ever chang
ing in form, and adding new beauty
TO the scene. Mr.. Farley, who was
posted in the traditions of the coun-
Try, pointed out the Devils Slide on
| koalalanul Maui to Us. According 10
tradition here lived one OF the great
gods or devils of the ancient Hawaii
ans. He had sled on which he used
to coast down the steep mountain side,
at the only place possible for such a
| feat. Tho the natives never knew
what snow was, Coastlng was popular
sport. A place was prepared tor the
chiefs to coast down, and short slip
perry grass allowed to grow over it.
This demon or god, for he is called
both, used to glide down at night,
commit depredations, and then return
to his stronghold.
We reached the Hanapepe Falls at
noon. The water rusnes over a prec-
ipiCe about three hundred feet high,
and falls into great basin worn in
the rocks below. The scene is sub
lime and inspiring. Miniature rain
bows may be seen on the fine spray
cast off from the dashing waters. The
whole is enclosed by precipitous cliffs
clothed with dark green moss. The
shadows of the rock overhang the clear,
cold pool of water which lies beneath.
From this pool the plantation hume
starts, carrying the water at Il fall of
only one foot to the thousand, to irri-
gate the valley below.
Among the most beautiful scenery
in Kauai is the valley of Houalei, which
we visited two days later. The j,ur-
ney was one continuous picnic. 1t was
made by the same party in carriages
and on horseback. The crossing of the
ferry at Houalei was made all the
more romantic by the tradition that
our ferryman had been Chinese pi-
rate; he certainly looked enough like
one.
One Of the wonders of Kauai is the
mirage. This wonderful optical delu-
sion will occasionally greet the trav-
eler three miles beyond Waiwea. The
sandy tract that stretches along the
road seems transformed into a lake of
water, where the images of cattle are
reflected as they appear TO iced upon
submerged vegetation, while the trunks
of trees seem to rise out Of the wafer.
| The natives have a tradition that a,
certain seasons, just before dawn, the