The Press., 1896-03-26
EUROPEAN LETTER.
Rome, Italy, March z, 1896.


 pleasant and profitable.
 Nov want to mention what we have seen during the last week. The capitol the Aventine, the Pantheon, Paul's prison, the Kings Stables, the Jesuit Church of St. 1gnazio and Gesu, one of the most gorgeous churches in Rome
 On Sunday we went to the Villa Bor- ghese, where they had fitted up the bed of what was formerly large lake as a race course and were having horse and chariot races there witnessed by thousands of people. It seemed strange to me to pay admission and attend this performance of wild west Order.( excepting of coulse, the chariot races) on a Sunday afternoon. But it was for the benefit of the wounded in Africa. A thousand more soldiers left here last week for Africa, to recruit the ranks of the wounded. They departed amid bursts of martial music and great enthusiasm. But the sensitive ear de- tected many minor notes. They came from the broken hearts of mothers. wives and sisters who were embracing the loved ones they might never again see. Oh. it was terribly sad. It makes me boil with indignation when think on what trivial preteXts nations that call themselves civilized, resort to war. I admire Eng land for the pacific attitude she took in our recent little wrangle. She kept a level head. Until man is ready to en- list in the first volunteer regiment, it does not become him to blow about war.
 On the Aventine we saw very hand some new monastery, vista opening upon St. Peters, and St. Sabina, and old Church dating from the early fifth century, Here we were followed around by an old Fran ciscan monk who took us into the monas- tery gardene and gave us flowers This reminds me that in Rome there are as many uniformed and official as unofficial beggars. The former class keep little gates and doors locked on public highways or in buildings, which the visitor has perfect right to enter free of charge. But not so, rule these beggars in brass buttons. They appoint themselves Gus todian of the Key, and you must ring and wait on their officious service. They bow around and make great pretencp of as- sistance. Once away from them you are confronted by the deformed and wretched looking beggars at every church door who often project themselves in front of you and all but catch hold of your sleeves. If you refuse them, maledictions are hurl- ed after you. This is one of the very dis agreeable features Of European travel. | shall never forget a beggar, this time, in| thegarb of priest, whom we encounter in theg great Cathedral of Seyille IIe ask ed for money in every wal 5ris: ! did not mind this so much as I did his face. It was the most voluptuous, re- pugnant face have ever seen. Alas that his lips have ever taken the VOWS of the HOlyChurch. He might grace the Bowery, but his physical make up was suggestive of every thing but sanctity. I
 On Thursday we went to the Kings stables, where Paul was greatly delighted with the 150 horses. They were pleasing to look at, fine, fat sleek, intelligent-look- ing fellows, with nothing to do but con- template their fortune Cor unfo rtunate)lot in life; for they looked like they longed | for an outing and would gladly exchange | places with the ab-horses on the h ghway if only they could get sunshine an exer- else. Meanwhile, doubtless, their weary | cab brothers long to step into their shoes. | All of which goes to prove that happiness | is relative and that horses, like men, are | slaves to imagination.
 At the Capitol we saw the Municipal | Council rooms, busts of the King and the | Prince of Naples, a beautiful statue of | Cleopatra by Roman sculptor, and | number of other pictures, all historical. |
 Near the Capitol we went into an old | building and down narrow, winding stairs | into dungeon which is believed to be the | identical one in which Paul was confined. |
 Walking along the street the otLer day | 1 saw crowd collected in front of a house | and looking up, l thought, at it. A nearer approach showed the hous 6 to be | a Catholic school or home foryoung girls. They were leaning over the high balconies | in pure white garments which seemed to differ in no respect from les robes dW mutt. Strange, thought that strict institution | should permit its inmates to appear in their night dresses at the windows as to attract crowd of people. But 1 soon discovered that funeral service was taking place in house on the opposite side of the street and that the girls were entirely proper in appearing in their semi nary uniform.