The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1896-08-21
SEWING MATERIALS.
a Proper Selection win BE Found o.
Great Advantage.

col
+erials. 1t is not uncommon to see sew
inr women using thread and needles in
orvyyly unsuta BILE for thecloth, while
The cloth is much too heavy or too sheer
Cor tbe purpose chosen. All white cloth
should Ice shrunk for whatever purpose
# is to be used, except possibly sheet
and tablecloth and such large pieces
that are only hemmed at the ends and
have no seams. 1t is not only easier to
eew shrunken cloth, but the seams
stitched in unshrunken draw after the
garment is washed if they are not cut
bv the needle, as they often are when
the stitching is done. This applies es-
: neeially to Il machine-stitched seam,
which is much stronger and better, as
well as more rapidly done. The best
modern seamstresses do not fell the
seams Of their undergarments except
sonetimes the side seams of the
cbemise and the seams of the close-fit-
inc corset covers. Experience has
shown that shrinking the cloth before
using it adds certainly one-third to its
wearing qualities.
The most important matter is to
chose the proper muslin for the pur-
pose. a heavy muslin does not necessar-
ily wear longer than a light one. For
some purposes it will not wear as well.
Where the cloth lies in folds, as j; does
in gathering. or where a loose-fttino
garment is drawn in around the waist
by band Of the skirt, heavy goods will
crack long before a light muslin will
show amy signs Of wear. The fashion of
choosing for most undergarments a
much LIGHTER muslin than was former
ly considered advisable is in every way
better on the score of comfort as we'll
as economy. \ light muslin or cambria
wears better than a heavy muslin for
night garments. These lighter gar
ments are almost as warm as the heavi-
er ones, but where extra warmth is re-
uuired a neat garment of fannelette
NAV be used in the winter or an extra
undergarment OF flannel may be worn.
The latter is the best plan, as fannelette
nightgowns are clumsy and the seams
cannot be as thoroughly washed as the
light cambria gown. 1t was no uncom-
mon thing IN olden times, when heavy
muslins were used and stitf-felled seams
were the rule, TO see thick line of dirt
settled in the muslin that no laundress
could remove without alkali washing
fluids, which invariably rot the FIBER of
the muslin. One advantage of light
muslin is that it is easily washed, and
the dirt has no chance to cling in the
interstices OF the muslin, as 1t does in
the heavier goods. AS rule cambria
Is the best choice for nightgowns,
chemses and skirts. And even lighter
goods, as Victoria lawn, which does not
rattle when it is starched, may be used
for skirts. y good quality of this goods
heavy enough for skirts comes at 121I
and Is cents.
For drawers and corsets that fit close
" an especially strong linen is needed.
Corset covers which are fitted 20 the
figure are frequently made up of linen,
because this cloth bears the necessary
strain better than cotton. Drawers may
be made of amy nice domestic muslin.
They should be short enough to reach
above the knee whom the wearer is seat
ed or they soon crack at the knee. A
simple group Of tucks and a ruf1le of
two or three inches is the best trim
ming. For .mc reason known to fash
ion the corset cover fitting to the figure
Is moi SO much in favor as a baby waist
and various other loose contrivances
that serve To shield the corset The
chemise is com lIetely restored to favor,
and many women adopt this in place Of
the corset cover and avoid the clumsi-
ness oil TOO many garments. Linen laces
are generally preferred to cheap en-
0olderies, as they cost no more and
wear better
The best rule for the choice of thread is
TO chose thread near the, size of the
Unread OF the garment. Where very
line cambria is used this is not prac-
ucal but in general it may be said that
Ior stitching, oyerhanding and running,
NO 50 or 70 thread is the best, and No.
or needle where a needle is used.
FOR hand hemming No. 20 or 80 thread
ana a No. 0 or 10 needle is the best
cholce. No. As thread is generally
CHOSEN for DuttOnholes. Where the gar
aent is very fine No. so may be used.
uathering demands a No. 40 or so size
unread. The old rule of gathering-to
Jake up two threads and skip fcIr-is
70 longer insisted upon, as no one has
sle in these busy days to count every
|IFead, but this is about the proper
n nlg'h for gathering stitches.-N. Y.
Tribune.
Tinted Sandwiches.
although tea tables no longer deco
'ae the draWing-room when not in
use tables are daintier than ever. Be
luS made Of Light wood or bamboo they
sle readily lifted into the presence of
le hostess by the parlor-maid or the
Ouuer when required in the drawing
!.