The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-08

Collar bands, as well as vests. are q pretty.
dourishing feature of the gowns this season.
and they all have some sort of frill extending
all around the neck or across the back, CON-
mencing Just In front of the ears. The latter is
the most generally becoming style. and the
effect is accomplished In various ways. with
knife-plaited frills Of silk auAf lace gathered
inside. with pointed pieces Of velvet wired to
make them stand out: with three little square
tabs on each side, meeting in the back. cut in
one with the collar. lined with silk or velvet,
and wired around the edges. A lace frill falls
over them, beginning at the side with the
tabs. Loops of satin ribbon. velvet, or piece
Saline about three inches wide make a pretty
hnish. and they are more easily man
aged than the wired points. Two short
loops are set in the edge on either side. leaving
a narrow space at the back which Is filled in
with three or four longer loops. Lace Is gath
cred inside of this, and almost every collar has
the touch OF lace. either full or plain, to cover
the haring tabs. A black satin collar band
with pointed pieces OF bright velvet fiaring out
at the side and q short, close bow of the satin at
the bacE Is very becoming and useful. too. when
lace is too dressy, and the velvet pieces can DO
cut in any shape suited to the face. The turn
down linen collars. with deep cuffs. arc also
worn with morning dresses. but the p~rettiest
white collars are made Of embroidered linen
lawn or batiste, with full frills of narrow lace
on the edge. These almost cover the wide col
lar baAd and are not so trying as linen.
Simple silk gowns of changeable and lowered
silk are to be worn all winter for the house, the
theatre. and informal social evenings, aad they
are made'up with the skirt separate from tho
silk lining at the bottom, yet Rored to fit tho
hips closely at tho sides, or cut with moro full
ness, which Is arranged in small plaits or
tucks four or five inches long ana beginning
at either side of the front breadth. Black
velvet ribbon sewn on In scallops or deep
points Is used for a skirt trimming. and
tucks in various widths, either crosswiso
or up and down, seems to be much In
evidence on tho waists, especially those Of
changeable silk. Sleeves are tucked across tho
fulness at the top. up and down tho arm, and
pretty square collars are made OF u hemmed and
tackled straight breadth OF silk, mitrod at the
shoulder, front and back TO give 1t shape. In
%sertions of lace set In between groups of tucks
arc pretty on this, and zouave Jackets of black
and white. or cream lace are also an effective
finish for a simple bodice. fulled In at the belt,
which may be OF black satin.
The gown which has not some touches OF black
or white. or both about 1t, is tho exception this
season! Plaid silk 10 very effectively used for
the bodice OF wool gowns. and one stylish model
of black. covered with O scroll design In gray,
has q scarlet. blue, and yellow plaid wais with
a zouAye OF Persian lamb, and sleeves to match
the skirt. Another very smart gown illustrated
Is Of brown drap d'ete, with q plain skirt and =
tabled zouave and epauleLtes trimmed W it'll
military braid. The vest Is of pale green and
gold brocaded silk. The second. OF double cash
mere. is green. trimmed with black and white
velvet cord and chinchilla fur. The back is cut
princess shane. and the front OF the bodice Is of
heliotrope brocade with chinchilla revers. A
princess dress OF gray cloth is trimmed with
Irish lace. q band of black velvet on either side.
and an edge OF marten. The square bolero and
epaulettes match the skirt trimming, and the
square neck is of red velvet studded with i'm
itation Jewels. Violet velvet and brown cloth is
tho next combination. The under bodice is OF
velvet and the strapped zouaye and skirt are
braided with violet brown and gold mixed