Birmingham state herald., 1896-10-25
Tile hearths, s275-Mayberry Watson.
MATTER OF DRESS IN LONDON.
American Men Find That Unco-.ven- tional Attire Makes Them
 Consnio1lo11S

COnSplcuOuS.
 Ballard Smith to the New York Herald.
 The London newspapers are making silly season" subject of the problem of how to dress at summer functions. It is not silly subject, however, to him who wishes to be attired convenablement, for that is very serious matter, indeed, for the Londoner of any pretensions He may be suspected of every vice and still be beloved of society, but he may not ap- pear in Piccadilly during the season ex- cept in frock coat and tall hat-whether black silk or gray fet-else his world will repudiate him.
 Let not your readers smile nor sheer at this as unimportant. To the 10000 or more who give backbone to England's greatness here at home the matter Of dress is of momentous concern. The nat tiness of even the private soldier, when in England, at least, Is as Sedulously looked after as Is his discipline. A lounge coat or a derby hat in parliament is still a subject of amazed comment in the news papers. A barrister in unconventional raiment in court a shopman in careless attire behind his counter, would equally lose practice or custom.
 Nor let the proud American fiatter him. self he will be exempt from this obliga- tion when under its influence here. have seen the bold Kansan and South Dakotan reach London in slouch hat and loose coat then stray along Piccadilly on the first day of his arrival. Behold! The next day he will parade there only in the glory of silk hat which he can forthwith buy at any shop, and "Prince Albert" if he chance to have one. If not, he Will stay indoors or not venture beyond the Strand until his tailor can make him one. I dare venture that the sectional MT. Bry- an would undergo the metamorphosis af- ter twenty-four hours in London.
 A leading London newspaper pleads to- day for an authoritative set of rules flor the guidance of gentlemen who wish to appear suitably attired at fashionable race meetings. It is so awkward to be light-suited, brown-booted and billycock- ed when everyone else in the inclosure is in high hat and frock coat. It is equally unpleasant to stand out against the sky in a high hat and a frock coat when everybody else is in straw hat and serge" Listen to this experience of leading American statesman just con- cluding his first visit here. He went down to Ascot the day after his arrival in his customary lounge coat, tanned shoes and straw hat. q would as soon have found myself at the opera in that guise,' he said. There was not another man in the grand stand who was not dressed as if for a garden party"
 A little later he went to Newmarket, this time in full garden party array but every man, from the prince down, was Tn tweeds, billycocks and all. He was in vited to a famous horse sale, with pre- ceding luncheon, at the private country seat of a noted Englishman. Surely, he counseled with himself, lounge dress will be in order here. He found again every man in Ascot garb, the ladies in fullest summer styles, and he and the stud grooms alone in billycocks. He was in- yited to a house boat at Henley; he in- formed himself. that there was to be an elaborate luncheon, with many lady guests, and he complacently donned his frock coat and silk hat. Even the nigger minstrels contemptuously grinned at him as he tried to hide himself there behind the Towering plants on the boat.
 These were but a part of his similar experiences He did not know that Ascot is a royal function" and full afternoon dress. therefore, absolutely necessary. But he could not know why it was equally de rigueur at the horse sale; nor can any one not in "the know" Hence the plea Of the newspaper writer above quoted. It is the mystery of the club autocrats who set such fashions, communicate It to their world, and thus, perhaps, deliberately use their power to make the outsider feel that he is one.
 q am ashamed of myself" said my American, but the pleasure of my visit has been seriously affected by these mis- haps. I feel now the force of that young woman's dinner remark to the bishop. The consciousness of being well dressed was her reply to his protests upon her rich gown and jewels. gives, your lord ship, a satisfaction which religion Is pow erless to grant.