Omaha daily bee., 1896-12-27
Fashion Notes.

| feathers, with the breast feathers for the
| yoke,
Long coaks of brocaded silk, cloth and un-
cut velvet, made with bishop sleeves and
| trimmed with fur, are worn with evening
| dress,
Concession to the prevailing craze for
| elaboration is apparent only in the stylish
vests which accompany bansome tailor
| gowns.
The fashionable fan is a veritable toy,
| II is so small. The empire is the approved
| style in the tiniest size. and 1t is more beau
ttfully ornamented than ever.
The dress skirt bids fair to more than rival
the bodice in excess of elaboration, and the
elegant simplicity which not long ago was
conspicuous in woman's attire has now al
most entirely vanished.
One of the special features of the seasons
modes is the use of velvet for entire gowns,
wraps, waists, bolero jackets, bodice trim
mings and countless modes of combination
which make it so popular
The sleeve which was worn in the early
part of the century is the latest model shown
just at present. 1t is closeflttin from the
wrist, where it flares over the hand to the
elbow, and above this is a pun which gathers
full into the armhole.
Silks, moires and brocades are in highest
vogue and most active demand. and furs
of every elegant grade and quality have
developed capabilities of elegance and style
in shape, cut and adjustment which have
never prevailed before.
The latest idea in bodices shows a tendency
TO make the sides of the front and back
different. A fan-shaped plating of satin
like the skirt covers one-half of the front of
an evening dress, and tule and coored vel
vet are artistically combined in the other
Empire muffs of velvet, lined with fur, are
made up this season. and the latest style Of
fur mum has lining of the same fur. Other
novelties in fur are the bolero Jackets,
trimmed around with cream lace or other
wise decorated with applique designs in
beads.
Chest protectors OF brocaded silk in bright.
dainty colors are made for women to wear
with evening dress. They are shaped some
what on the plan of a bolero jacket without
armholes, meet at the neck in front where
they tie across with ribbon. and are finished
with little standing collar.
blouse bodice of black velvet covered
back and front with lattice trimming OF
gold cord, and turquoise beads set in at in
tervals, so that there is a head at each
crossing, is very effective with wide corslet
belt of black satin black satin collar, and
plain sleeves of velvet with a small puff
at the top.
Distinction in dress is difficult matter
with the variety of colored embroideres,
laces, and diversity OF materials in use this
season. but a successful way to attain ii
is to have a plain costume of some soft color
like gray or brown, and put the note Of
color in the hat and muff, with an umbrella
to match.
Dancing slippers are made to match the
gown, and rhinestone and pearl embroidery
is the finish, but when this style of shoe
is not practicable bronze and black kid
embroidered with brown and jet beads are
quite as good style Slippers to match the
gloves are frequently worn, and the half-low
cbp pf
A smart little Paris gown of sage-gray
cloth has seven-gored skirt and a charming
oat-bodice cut with bolero fronts, and ar
ranged with pleated and cascaded jabot of
Danish red and green checked silk. This
jabot parts, revealing narrow white repped
silk vest covered with iridescent bead
gimp. The bodice is finished with pointed
girde made entirely of the glittering trim
ming.
The tailors happily are returning to that
severity of cut characteristic of their ear
liest achievements as wOman's tailors. The
coat and skirt are now as they used to be-
plain and simple the sleeves reduced al
most to the dimensions OF the close-ftting
coat shapes of long ago. There is no re-
dundancy OF basque. II fits close. 1t is
neither very long nor absurdly short; its
frillinCss has quite disappeared; the revers
are neatly shaped. The skirts are moderate
in width, with the fullness kept well to the
back.
"picture hat" although most becom-
ing, and grown more and more fashion
able, has its responsibilities. The woman
who wears it with a box coat, REFER
jacket or an English cutaway, finished with
a manly necktie and scarfpln, is guilty of
a heinous offense The graceful lines of
the picture hat with its soft, sweeping
plumes and dainty velvet flowers. cannot
properly be worn with anything masculine
or even severe in its effect. To thus treat
this beautiful head covering would be a
crime against the laws of art. good taste
and consistency.
Among demi-dress toilets coat bodces with
jacket fronts and pleated belted Russian
backs. are worn with vests Of some rich bro
cade or of a diaphanous textile, accordion
pleated and draped over plain satin of some
becoming tint. Long, slender tabs lined
with contrasting color are cut at the back of
many of the cloth bodices. while others are
battlemented both back and front. Flat bre-
telles are tabled and deeply pointed, stand !
ing out well on the shoulders and often con
tinuing on in a taperng form to the waist
line. AS a rule, the high faring collar is
tabled and lined to correspond
1t is not necessary for the woman of mod |
est means, who loves, for instance, dainty |
laces to select a poor imitation OF a real |
handmade design. The stores everywhere |
provide her with beautiful fancy laces that |
initiate nothing, but appear upon their own |
X,
by almost miraculous intricate machine pro |
of pattern, dainty as a cob |
web and beautiful enough in effect to satisfy |
any but a critic lavish of means and so prod |
igal OF money and the rarities it can pro- |
vide that nothing in the world is quite right |
or quite good enough for satiated tastes.
Feminine Notes.
Mary Cowden Clarke spent sixteen years |
on the Concordance to Shakespeare"
Mrs w. II. Vanderbilt has bequeathed |
$3.50, 900 to enlarge the work of the st. Bar
tholomew Mission Of New York City.
Gladstone's little granddaughter Dorothy |
Drew, never wears shoes and stockngs |
either in the house or out Of doors, except |
when she is in town
The wife Of william Black. the novelist |
is taller than her husband, and In one OF his
books he makes laughing reference to the
fact, calling her Queen Tltania.
Miss Ruth Cleveland, the presidents 1T
tie daughter, has named pair of her favor
ite ponies "Arabella" and "Aramnta," after
a couple of little girls in a story book she
has been reading,
Miss Laura Wyle Phi. d.. has been made
associate professor OF English at Vessar col,
lege. Other teachers added to the faculty
at this time are Miss Rogers, Miss Hubbell,