The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-01-19


from headache for the remainder of
the day Fancy holding Sunday school
in a church not in q separate apartment
and before the last child has vanished adj
hitting the congregation. OF course the
pure air is exhausted, but what OF that?
The furnaces or fires have more coal piled
on, the windows. usually, are not made to
open and the doors are quickly closed ana
then, in this particular case 10 which am
abiding, the edifice Is quickly nlieo;
There are some little ventilators here and
there, but a totally insufficient number.
AS a result l have seen men doze, and
mum bers of both sexes have complained
before me of headaches. It is all very line
to say that we should not dwell on such
topics, that our minds should be liked on
other things, but when your head
is throbbing you begin to wonder
II you can punch hole IN
a window, and while trying to overcome
this desire not long ago fell into a par
TALLY unconscious state and dreamed OF
carrying to church, in future, bags OF fresh
air. Now the rector may have preached
an instructive and interesting sermon, but
1t was all lost on me, for matter trlumphed
over mind. l have heard SO many com
ments lately over this subject that L wish
some attention would be paid to it, as most
OF US are accustomed to fresh air and sun
shine, and will not relinquish them will
ingly for furnace heat and an atmosphere
laden with disease germs of every sort.
1t is rather abrupt to leave this topic
and again speak OF garments, but one OF
our most beautiful young mothers across
the bay was extremely attractive at
dance last week in q toilet of soft pearl
gray brocaded crepe, with sleeves OF Grim
sin velvet. Encircling the low-cut neck
was an odd puffy ruche OF velvet, and
around the waist was a softly wrinkled
band of the same fabric, which tied at the
left side in bow with two long outstanding
looms, the ends of which reached the bot
tom of the skirt.
There is another way of making low
bodice. 1t is constructed with the point
in front, a narrow BASQUE meeting it on
either side, while handsome lace or Jet at
tached to net falls in graceful Fittings from
the neck, longer in the center; the sleeves
remain large. Evening costumes which
are not trimmed around the bottom with
bands or rolls of chinchilla or sable are
given the requisite touch in Paris by
means of q roll of silk, velvet or brocade,
which is very decorative and helps to make
the skirt hang we'll. In London the swell
est fabric for evening wear at the present
moment is white velvet, which must be
trimmed with gold passementerie or pearls
and rhinestone bands and ornaments, or
iridescent bands and vandykes. Ermine
or sable is also used. Such gown costs a
small fortune, as also does truly magnifi-
cent cloak ordered in England by royalty.
1t is described as long seal mantle, with
bishops sleeves made of the same fur. The
large shawl collar, front trimmings and
cuffs are of complete sable (royaD skins.
The tails and little feet are left on as they
give a pretty effect to the trimming. The
lining is of white satin.
1t is TO be hoped that stout women wi
eschew white velvet bodices, even if they
/, %haI- Ri VT of az SatrGc ~, M
be of rich satin, which does not give such
an effect of size.
In most of the latest trousseaux are two
or more tea Jackets, delightful affairs COM
posed of shot and changeable silks or
satins, much trimmed with all sorts of
dainty exquisite laces, and usually they
have vests of contrasting hues.
There is revival in Paris of the once
most fashionable tapestry cloth; il is be-
ing combined with velvet, producing
gowns of exceptional charm, but then
they should be dreams considering that
the cloth is $25 per yard, although to be
sure it is very wide.
Slippers for evening wear are receiving
much attention at present, many of the
leading dressmakers especially designing
them for their fair patrons.
| spoke last week of Miss Tyree's Cor as
we know her better, Miss Tommy's) sue
cess in the Home Secretary" and prom
ised to tell you something about her gowns
in this article, and so quote from Vogue.
Referring to her wardrobe Miss Tyree
said:
81 always dress part with as much fitness to
the woman impersonated as l can. You see,
in the Home Secretary | tried TO wear Just
what this society woman would, who had bit
of diable in her, and who would, you know
affect outre costumes. For instance, such q
woman would never wear chiffons or cinging
materials-severe lines are for her appropriate"
In the first act Miss Tyree wears a reception
toilet of white silk ground with red and
yellow carnation scattered here and there.
The skirt has a front panel, with tiny double
tongues of scarlet outlining it. The bodice,
OF white cloth, has yellow velvet front, with
exquisite Renaissance lace artistically arranged
over it, and the coat back, with its long
tails, is lined with the red. In front it forms
a sort of zouave effect, and the white cloth is
cut out and an applique pattern is done in red
and black. To complete this chic toilet is
a picture hat of white velvet topped with black
plumes and red and yellow orchids. Its far
ing brim, perched so coquettishly on Miss Ty-
ree's pretty head, is lined with black velvet,
and right at the crown, so as 10 be against the
hair is steel ornament.
The style OF gown is very dependent on
the fit. and yet many women expect their
dressmakers to fit them over old or i'll