Evening star., 1896-10-24

has had its day. This year the woman who
looks at furs sees nothing but enormous
muns Of fur with a fluting Of the fur at
each end lined with brilliant shades. She
sees also feather muffs with ruffles of chif
fon Not new at ALL she sees feather boas,
which were fairly common last winter.
Newest OF all she sees capes made entirely
or black or white ostrich plumes, in length
reaching about to the waist. These plumed
capes are. perhaps the highest novelty of
the season. Before the winter Is over we
may reasonably expect to see them made in
harlequin fashion with white and black
plumes intermingled.
Better, should say, at least, more likely
to be permanently modish than the plumej
capes are the long coats lined with fur and
reaching quite to the bottom of the dress,
robed in which a woman of tall and stately
form looks indeed regal. One of the most
beautiful coats which I have seen. Is of
dark blue ladies' cloth with a cape embroid-
cred with black braid. The cape, like the
coat. is edged and lined with Persian lamb.
For tEeater or evening wear there are
very tiny shoulder capes. Some Of them
are extremely short, SO short as to sug-
gest doubt of their possessing any use for
purposes Of warmth, but that's nothing.
Among the prettest of them are those
made In white accordion plated chiffon,
trimmed with tiny bands of black velvet,
two or three, or four On the shoulders of
one OF these l saw three large loops of
heliotrope velvet ribbon, whose long ends
dropped quite to the waist on each side of
the front, and were caught in the middle
with big rhinestone buckles.
In Place of the Bloomer.
Even in Paris the bicycle bloomer has
en- its best days. This Is an item less
interesting than 1t might have been in the
spring, yet why? Surely, the pleasant days
of late fall and early winter are better suit
ed to do out-of-door exercise than the ex-
treme heat of midsummer. The Partisan
hi0h toll fhn rnvo nf
the bloomer, or rather supplements 1t, Is
of truly Gallo levity and brevity. reaching
only about three inches below the knee and
being memorable for its width and full
ness.
From Paris, too comes hints Of the latest
fashion for winter garments. These notes
and hints are all of coats cut with tight
sack-backs, whether the fronts be loose
and Watteauish otherwise
Skirts are not much more than half as
wide as they were. perhaps, couple Of
years ago; 31s yards around the hem at the
bottom and with godet at the side, is
now the correct proportion.
There Is no wane of the popularity of the
Jacket bolero and Eton, still very short
and worn in self colors over vests and
blouses OF feecy texture and light tints.
The wide corselet belt Is as much in favor
as Is the pearl neck chain. only the pearls
are reserved for the few who can afford
them. Any one can have a belt
An odd detail Of the Paris fashions of the
present autumn is the common custom of
wearing drab cloth sack-back coats with
skirts Of entirely different hue, or light
brown coats over dark green, or other
combinations of entirely different tints, of
which the lighter is always reserved for
the coat. A skirt trimming which will not
be reiished by stout women is a heavily
stitched, nine-inch hem with five rows of
braid about the bottom of the skirt.
Except In coats. where the retention of
fairly generous-sized sleeves is desirable,
they are much smaller than they have been.
And from England there comes as a
stylish novelty a white macintosh coat
nom three-quarters to full length, close
hitting In the back. and with full blouse
sleeves to accommodate any form of gar
ment or wrap. ELLEN OSBORN.