The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-01-12

~ gowns have been notably pretty.
( Y but heard the excellent criti-
cism which was made by a bright
Eastern woman. She remarked that our
young matrons and dehutantes do not ia Ike
advantage of their youthful beauty and
wear enough of the lovely frocks evolved
from airy, filmy, ethereal fabrics They
should leave the superb velvets, satins and
Srocades to older women and stately
matrons. AS 1 wrote weeks ago, gowns of
tulle are the dernier cri in Paris and New
York, so new and wonderful organizes.
exquisiteiy embroidered or hand-painted
GAUGES, such as we were taught in child
hood to believe were worn by fairies
only, now beautify the fairest Of maids
and matrons.
To be sure all are made over silk or
satin and are far more costly in the end
than the gowns worn by their elders, for
the lovely ethereal materials look like
rags in an inconceivably short space of
time.
As actresses, and especially French
ones, will probably for years to
come set the fashions in many ways, |
quote the description of gown worn re-
Gently by a celebrated actress in Paris:
Mile. L. wore white tulle bal-gown over a
pale roSe-pink satin slip. The pink satin skirt
was covered from waist TO hem with pleats OF
tulIe, slightly overlapping each other, to the
number OF thirty. The bodice was decollete
care. or square with tulle drapery en- bebe
oack and front, and broad puff of tulle across
the oecouetage. The elbow sleeves were char
mantle. Two or three thickneSses of tulle
formed large puff draped up well on the
shoulders and then gathered again into sep
arate pun, which was attached 10 black vel
vet bracelet encircling the arm above the
elbow, and barely seen under the voluminous
pufhng. On the left shoulder floral branch
OF huge pink and lilac gauZe peoples draped
the side OF corsage ending III graceful buds
and foliage. Her hair waved and parted, and
quite pulled out around the face. A golden
Ferronniere. with sapphire resting on the
brow, fastened in the hair, revival of the
modes Of 1880 which mentioned some months
ago would be sure TO return. Wide-jeweled
girdle, gold and sapphires
At dance here a young girl was fairly
radiant in dress OF yellOwish satin, fitting
and hanging to perfection. Around her
shoulders was draped film OF pale blue
tulle, with tiny ruftle along the edge. A
great point about the dress was that it
suited the wearer admirably.
Another toilet worthy of more than pass
ing comment was of q silky crepe texture,
with stripes of light blue and white over
blue silk. The skirt was without orna-
mentation and the bodice of blue chiffon
with sleeves matching the skirt. A few
bows OF satin ribbon were on the waist.
IL
but one of our best women here made this
frOck, so you can understand why it had
that Undesirable air, and besides it was
worn by a maiden who is not only stylish
but beautiful as well.
a stunning gown from Paris is cut en-
princess of black velvet, the decolIetage
being finished with three scallops back
and front. The balloon sleeves are OF
ivory satin, beautifully embroidered in
oriental designs with buttercup yellow
silk. The lining is Of the same shade in
glace taffeta.
That the princess gown is ito be much
worn Is an established fact; and if you
possess one, such as was ''the thing" about
i've years ago, do not rip it up, for as the
sleeves probably are TO be different from
the dress, as likely as not panels will be
correct matching the sleeves, SO oe patient
and next fall you can probably have your
modiste do wonders with garment which,
at best, would only make cape or a pair
OF sleeves If utilized now. Great sleeves
are to collapse soon is predicted.
Two gowns were noteworthy at two diff
fe-ent teas, and were worn by young ma
irons who assisted in receiving. One con-
sisted of perfectly charming waist in
light blue pink and green oriental figures
on white ground. 1t had lovely high
collar of white lace and two dear little
revers OF white satin. On either side two
handsome enameled buttons completed
the waist. The sleeves were very long
and had frilIs of the lace. Around the
waist was q soft crinkly band of white
satin, OF which material the skirt was COM
posed.
The other had a long-tailed basque of
the lightest gray brocade, covered with
black figure. 1t was cut square in front
only, and had q vest of gray crepe and
revers of white satin. At the sack of the
neck was large bow of black satin and
lace. Lace also fell over the bands The
skirt was enormously full and of the most
delicate shade of gray crepe. The rippIes
round the basque were lined with white
satin, and three small black ostrich plumes
were perched on the right shoulder
a statuesque girl was lately observed at