Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1896-03-27

of mourning since the. world was young
and in every nation and race after its
kind. AS long as the world still rolls ON
bereaved hearts turn to mourning garb
not for show, but for sort of sOlace and
an Offering of respect for the departed.
What mother whose child, the dearest
part of her being, is torn from her could
feel right in the frivolous world of coiorsf
What daughter would consent to omit ths
mark of respect to her father or mother,
or what wife could bear her sorrow in 9TH
er attire than that which is in accordance
with her feelings? 1t is all well enough
for men to preach about what women
should do in the promises, but if they had
to see their own wives putting on pink
blue, green or yellow gowns Immediately
after the funeral | fancy they would think
differently.
The true lady preserves her dignity in
her sorrow. She never makes her black
ana somber garb obtrusive. She wears her
Grape for her own self and not for Others
to see. There is a time in bereavement
when to wear the garb set aside by custom
is almost balm for the crushed spirit.
and it would be n cruelty to deprive ono
of it. | do not apprehend, however, that
the custom of wearing black garments and
at the present time there are no signs Of
it, The only difference can notice is that
young persons may wear hats without wells
and widows and elderly ladies may wear
shorter wells for ordinary occasions The
reason Of this is that the long wells are
very heavy and drag ones head back, I'M
less goodly portion of the veil is brought
down in 'front.' and that is not always
comforts "a mr. ret
mourning or for church the very long veil
is the only proper one. There is now
English Grape made in some way which
renders it waterproof and proof against
dampness of all kinds, and, curiousy
enough, this Grape is lighter than the o:h-
er, and therefore better for everyday wear
and for trimming.
The wooden goods suitable for first
mourning are but two, and are eudora
and henrietta cloths-not the all wool
henrietta, but the priestly silk warp.
The eudora also has silk warp with an
overweave of the finest Australian wool
These two stutfs are nearly as thick and
firm as broadcloth, and have a soft frosty
bloom that blends perfectly with the Grape
trimmings. For those who cannot afford
either of those fabrics camel's hair and
cashmere sublime are the next best for full
mourning. For half mourning there are
several novelties in silk and wool, some of
them in discreet and quiet brocaded pat.
terms without luster. Others have an ad-
mixture of mohair on an Australian wool
surface. There is n maladif cloth which
is new and u Malice cloth. Both of these
have dull surfaces with faint brocade or
striped designs, the whole pattern being
worked by cross threads in tho same WOOL
thrown up something like the jacquard
weaves, The herringbone and cheVron are
prominent patterns in the stripes and
small geometrical and floral designs in the
plain. Some Of these have the body in wool
and the pattern in stripes or figures Of
silk.
Hats are made of stiff foundation, Gov
cred with English Grape, generally smooth
around the brim, with full pulled crown
of Grape and several stiff bows and ends of
doubled Grape In some cases "a little jet
trimming is added and in others some
flowers of black satin, such rs yiolets, tu-
lips hyacinths and roses. These, however,
are never used upon first mourning, even
for the young.
More now than formerly the shape Of
the dresses and wraps conform to the fash
ion of tho day. In one store devoted en-
tirely to mourning attire l noticed this
week IA dress for home wear. 1t was of silk
warp henrietta and was cut in princess
shape, the skirt being very ample in tho
back and having "A demitrain Around