The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-16
MODES OF GOTHAM
MATE LEROY DISCOVERS
NEW IDEA IN DRESS
SKIRTS.
SKIRTS.
TABLIER, OR APRON FRONTS.
a. FRENCH STYLE THAT IS APT
TO FIND SOME VOGUE
HERE.
ELEGANT RECEPTION GOWNS.
The Princess Continues to BE the
FavOrite-Various Minor
Novelties,
TABLIER, OR APRON FRONTS.
ELEGANT RECEPTION GOWNS.
enecial Corresnondence

Special Correspondence
NEW YORK, Aug. 13.-One swallow
does not make a summer, nor does one
gown alone form fashion, but when
the fashion writer in search of some
thing new finds three of the new
models, all bearing the same marked
popularity, she is justified in thinking
new style has been evolved. The fall
model gowns are arriving fast now,
consigned to the best houses in New
York, and here they are being copied
as rapidly as possible, with many minor
changes to adapt them still better to
the needs of the American women.
There is little of everything to be
seen in these advance gowns. Sleeves
are of every dimension and shape, but
all trying by some clever artifice to
hide the fact that the sleeve is tight.
There are surplice folds Of various
shapes, size and lengths, and there
are blouse plaits on very many gowns.
These are generally in one wide plait,
with the narrower ones beneath, and
these hang over in regulation style.
Worn with one Of the jaunty fgaros
this would be a very taking style. 1
need not say would be, for the figaro
will be and already is, but it will be
very generally worn. / find it even for
childrens use.
The new idea in the development of
dress skirts is the open front, with n
breadth of something else set in. Some
TaaI 4oh re
are derived plainly from old styles of
three or four generations ago, but these
are sewed together, not made into the
separate skirts, with the upper one
1ooped back, as in the old days.
There was one of a rich light drab
Irish poplin, almost a cream. 1t was
made with a godet shaped skirt in the
back, the superb quality of the stuff
showing to the best advantage in the
large rolling folds The front breadth
was made of China crepe in a little
lighter shade, embroidered about half
way up with conventionalized blue
flowers and leaves interspersed with
dots. The waist was gathered to a
point front and back and had a full
plastron of the crepe and double caps
to the puffed sleeves. The sleeves
were of the poplin. All around the
skirt and up the two front seams there
was ruching made Of taffeta of the
same shade as the gown. This was 1k
inches wide.
A magnificent reception gown was
made of pink and green printed taffeta
in pompadour design. This, too, was
left open in front to simulate an open
skirt, with tablier Of white and silver
brocade. This skirt also has a mar
row ruching down the seams and all
around the bottom. The corsage was
cut in the Louis Seize style, with a
pointed vest of the silver brocade and
two bertha shaped revers of the bro
cade The back was f1uted high, and
the fronts were cut away in the ap-
proved style. Four fancy silver but
tons were placed on each side. The
basque was of the taffeta. Around the
low neck there was a draped bertha of
pale pink tulle, with jabot fronts. The
sleeves had small puffs arranged so as
to droop over the arms. Where they
Joined there was two shirrings made
of white silk NULL There were crush
ed puffs of this pink tulle directly over
the shoulders. 1 could scarcely tell
how many other elegant evening gowns
are copied from this and developed in
somewhat the same style, the princi-
pal difference being in material and
minor details. In such gown a lady
would look like some dainty little mar
courtly DANES of Little Trianon. This
gown was intended only for evening
wear but it is suitable for dinner.
opera, reception or any place where
full dress is required.
The same new idea in skirts was car
ried out in magnificent satin duchess
silk in ashen gray, with great sprays
of green and purple flowers scattered
over it. The five black cores were of
tnn lin DIM lot iv1
The front Of the skirt, or tablier, as it
Is called, was made of white and green
silk mull-the white, pure mat, and
the green just the color of the breaking
surf, more white than green, yet hold
ing the lights and shadows of the
translucent waves. First there was
gathered front, starting from the width
of inches and widening to 20. This
was gathered at both top and bottom.
then. on each side Of this, there was
panel of puffed green null, the puffings
being made diagonal. These panels
were inches wide at the top and 10
at the bottom. Where it joined the
white there was a very narrow ruching
of va1encienneS. Around the bottom of
this portion of the skirt, save under
the green, there was an irregular
shirred pulling of the white silk null.
This front portion was lined with white
taffeta. The upper part of the waist
was gathered very full to the stock.
There was a Swiss corsage formed by
puffings of the green, edged with lace.
The stock and the pointed belt were
made of pale purple satin duchess to
match the color in the pattern of the
skirt The upper parts Of the sleeves
were puffed slightly and shirred, of the
green null, with a falling ruff1e s
inches deep over the elbow. At the
shoulders there were crisp little draped
~ G@G IL
was of the purple silk, with a darker
bow at the back of the same color. The
stock was of lace, a trif1e wider than
that at the sides. have tried to give
as careful q description of this as pos
sible as there will scarcely be a hand
somer gown designed this season. This
is suitable for garden party, cere-
monieus afternoon reception and also