The herald., 1896-09-17
FASHIONABLE FALL FABRICS
Checks Have Supplanted Stripes-The
Beautiful Brocaded Moires

be one of the most successful of autumn
Woolen goods-it combines usefulness
with elegance and in some way reminds
one of Java canvas on much larger
scale, in fact 1t more closely resembles
basket plating, the coarse strands OF
wool passed in and out in simple fash
ion. Some of these canvases are cheq-
uered; others are in two colors only,
dark blue and black, crimson and black.
the last named particularly ladylike and
charming, being amongst the prettiest
sa mples shown. The material is slight
ly satin-faced, and I am told gowns of
this fabric. made up with trimmings of
velvet, similar to the tone of the mate
rial. will be simply "ravissantes." Then
there are thickly ribbed cloths in rich
tones-purples, blues, greens and mag
nif1cent dark crimson. Zibeline cloths
are also figured prominently among the
seasons goods, with their smooth, silky
surfaces, so pleasant to the touch. Other
stuffs, in pretty shades of drab, gray
cigar and cedar brown, Havana and q
curious grayish brown shade, denomi-
mated 'moineaux." or sparrow colored,
are sort, loosely woven canvases of the
grape bag class, intermixed with goat
or camel hair, and accordingly dubbed
poll de chevre."
Then, again, there are multifarious
samples of grantees" and "boucles."
the later notched and flecked with white,
H.,
according to taste, on a light or dark
ground. The always useful heather mix
lures, too, are prettier than ever this
year,while Scotch plaids and shepherds
plaids, in various colors-the usual small
white check replaced by drab, gray or
black, as less conspicuous for winter
days, and with a contrasting and more
brilliant color-will make neat little
morning dresses, trimmed with cloth or
velvet, or velours epingle,a sort of Terry
velvet, that is not quite so dressy as the
Lyons fabric, and more SO than uni
form Melton cloth. Stripes have had
their day, and will not figure in coming
autumn and wint = fashions. Mattel
asse cloths, with raised design woven
upon them in soft silk, somewhat re-
sembling foulard, are also new and very
pretty In black they are particularly
effective. One having a raised design
of oak leaves cleverly defined in shiny
silk on dull background, struck me as
particularly neat and pleasing. This
material is produced in double widths
only. Large patterns and very small
ones will be equally set aside this sea-
son. good medium-sized pattern being
looked upon by various couturers as
the proper thing for draping the female
form this autumn.
To recapitulate, therefore. checks,
plaids, medium sized floral or convon-
tional designs and coarscly woven soft
materials. flecked with silk or finer WOOL
satin cloths and ribbed materials, either
plain or peppered in two colors. will he
most popular for winter wear, while
printed velvets. in the loveliest colors
imaginable, silk-faced, cotton backed,
will form entire corsages or Jackets
Some of these velvets are printed with
artistic olditimo designs of the Louis
QuinZe and Louis Seize periods. Others
have punches of roses thrown carelessly
m n n hn Ia
heliotrope ground. the floral design re-
assembled by ribbons tied in the true
lovers knot bows Posies of gold and
copper-colored marigolds. tiny bouquets
this time. stand out radiantly from a
ground Of royal blue. Lincoln green. or
mahogany brown velvet. Scarlet peo-
ny pink, Sevres blue and aqua marine
velvets are fascinatingly printed with
strange Japanesque design. su~~eet-
Ing palm leaves, in white. most effect
i've and original while a series of shawl
and carpet patterned short-haired
plushes remind one of Persia and the
marvelously harmonious conceptions of
its skillful weavers and embroiderers
In more expensive and dressy mater
ials we find the beautiful moires. that
appear to have a fruit-like bloom upon
their watered surface: nor does his suf-
flee for richness. for in some instances
the more is decorated with medieval
dpllion or design of foliage in brocaded
upon the silllen fabric. Moire- velours
for evening dresses especially for young
Girls. will also form part of the seasons
novelties. in white, pale blue. golden
yellow and pale green. This material
Is most fetching. Then there is a series
of tinely-ribbed silks, woven with a No.
raj design in posies ton sur ton. or of
that exact shade of the foundation These
silks are particularly pleasing for ladies
who appreciate quiet and rather Quak-
irish garb; the faint old time shades or
"nuances etientes," such as puce, dove
gray, vieuX bleu. vieuX rouge ard
quaint faded green, having a soothing
effect on the nerves. after the aggress-
i've coloring adopted by the masses Cur
ing the past few months. Personally. T
Tancy reaction will set in ard
lhe vogue will favor soft. faint
thades so much more becoming
10 the generality of feminine com
bleXions. Brocaded silks, or rather silks
brocaded with a raised velvet design
in Louis luatorze style viii be en-
ployed by one of the leading houses for
gala and evening dresses, while silver
and gold woven brocades will be used
as orramentation in conjunction with
plain satin on moire gowns. AS to trim
mings. embroidery will again be largely
employed, intermixed with narrow lines
or tuf outlining the design. suede and
glace kid will be much used also, in
bands or cut out in fretwork designs
and worked around with silken cord,
metal beads, and at times with lines
of colored chenille in Renaissance stvlc.
Entire cuirasses of this cut out kid
am told. will be forthcoming later on,
reminding one singularly of the "buffle-
terie" worn by the courtiers of the mid
die ages. One of the favorite styles of
trimming autumn dresses will be with
narrow velvet ribbon, generally black,
and set on in rows of seven. five or three
around the skirt, the corsage similarly
ornamented. These velvets vary in
widt.. from two inches to the fifth of an
inch, and may be employed in gradu-
ated manner or each row may be of sim.
liar width. The effect is neat and ex.
tremely pretty, and the expense thereof
is not great.-Paris letter to London
TaJa =