New-York tribune., 1896-12-27
LATEST PARIS LINGERIE.
EMBROIDERY PARTICULARLY TO THE
FORE IN THE NEW STYLES.
,xDrRGArMrNTs WORN By THE CooUETTIsH
FRENCH MAID OF FASH1oN-SKIRTS TO
SUIT EACH COSTUME.

Paris. December IL.
There is an unusually nice display Of lingerie in
several Of the shops now. and some dainty sets are
arranged in a manner suggestive Of holiday gifts
with the various pieces tied with baby ribbon or IN
closed in fancy cases
1t seems almost impossible 10 discuss anything
new in this line yet the combination of linen.
embroidery and lace Is apparently capable OF many
changes. Embroidery is particularly 10 the fore IN
these novelties and consists of the most deHcate
tracery OF vine flower patterns, edGing a row
Of tuckne entre-deux or following the scailop OF
a rufiie To be more effective the embroidery has
dots or lines of color worked in IT, blue. rose or
even black. when bizarre effect is desired Ihe
OF lace figures is the prettiest thing In the new
underwear. and a tiny lace entre-deuX arranged
IN a scroll pattern and bordered by line Of hand
embroidery Is dainty trimming on the rufie OF
q chemise.
Sometimes the lace. rather pattern in lace. is
apparently appliqued the fine linen. and the
hem Of chemise may have clusters OF lace flowers
surrounded by embroidered wreaths.
Tho fashion Of trimming the bottom of chemise,
although new. has never been so common as
now. Even ready made garments shown in few
exclusive shops have a rufie about the hem ana
even an extra breadth OF cloth shirred or tucked
into the waist behind to allow OF sufficient funess
70 make the chemise serve duty as corset cover
and short petticoat.
NOVEL STYLES IN THE CHEMlsE
Among novel cuts is a chemise that has yoke
fastening with gold studs TO the neck Remove
the two upper studs and the sides turn over IN
lapels for a low-necked costume. The idea Of
wearing g. high undergarment with a street gown
IS no longer a novelty: the carefully gowned woman
either has high chemises or corset covers or 'he
tiny null scarfs that pass under the arms. cover
the neck and shoulders and cross over the Dust IN
such cobweb-like folds that they are never iet
These are generally worn in addition TO chemise
or corset cover.
For the daytime the Frenchwoman wears the
silk knitted vest and loose batiste pantalon Tor
the first two garments, for the winter ~ rarely
sufficiently long severe here to overcome her
coquettish love for linen and lace or to force her
into even the daintiest of fannels. Then comes the
corset and rather a long one not that she wlshes
10 push her bust up. for she rarely laces ughty
enough for that. but she prefers for street cos
tune the support that the long corset gives ~ 'ie
waist and hips
Her garters are fastened to the front of her corset
and pass under over the pantalon. according 10
the cut. and keep the corset well down over the
hips Any who has never tried TINS manner
of arranging the elastic cannot Imagine the COM
fort contained in a garter that is never felt while
sitting but when on arising pulls the stays down
well about the hips. | think ! have written OF
this form of jarreere before, but II has become so
universally used that undeigarments are mace ac
cordinglv and the frst-clasS dressmakers VIII now
object il the we-ntting stays are not united in
front-not on the sides-with the stockings
Over the corset the Frenchwoman wears the
chemse. a dainty. garment of the sofiest ana
sheerest linen even if adorned by one single row
of embroidery lace. The daytime chemise is
generally sufficiently full to answer for an under
petticoat. and if 1t is not high enough to cover the
shoulders a scarf of null is added These scarfs
are the daintiest things imaginable edged by tiny
row Of Valenciennes or often scroll OF me EN-
broidery.
MIDWINTER PETTICOATS.
For midwinter a short petticoat Of soft flannel
NAV be worn under the moro important jupon
This is of white or some delicate shade ana en-
broidered or lace-trimmed. A simpler manner Is TO
line the long petticoat with lightweight flannel.
and sometimes the flannel only forms an inter
lining over covering OF thin SILK that does not
cling about the figure in walking, as flannel does
The long jupon is important TO the Parisienne
as is her gown, even more important ior Inc
Frenchwoman the street while walking wouid
prefer to Eft a shabby skirt over a smart under
skirt to raising an elaborate gown over shabby
petticoat.
The long jupon is quite as much garment 10
be displayed the gown itself. and the mondalhe
who dresses simply TO suit her taste has stock OF
jupons that she may choose one 10 suit the costume
she is wearing -
often changSs her corset when she takes off her
tailor for elaborate afternoon gown, or,
corset answers purpose for the evening With the
average figure the best evening corset is an . eM,
be cut in the "stl aght across shoulder manner in
nl,mp rTre and for dainty but well-covored shoul-
tSers Il is adorable for the first a is
a necessity while for the second no corset at all
corset IS built Of few and slender bones, and the
belle with fun figure that demands Weli-dennea
wastline naturally complains. . - f..
4 made-to-order corset. which is necessary in
this case. be short and at the same time nrin
aud few. even very few. Partisan corset , tnak-
ing corset for the average mondaine shall arrive,
and there Is a fortune for the maker who @ shail
ecliev. it-it will be very short and supple above
the wasiline allowing the dressmdker full scope,
and as evening bodces are made to be worn only only
make the shape Of the corsaee, This VIII show
well-set shoulders and head, poised with no nn-
Tn some mir icuous fashion the slender bones viii
grow extremely strong about the waistliue and fit
snugly into its lowest and smallest curve Below
The waist the corset is long ana , frm: 'ha' 's 'he
THE DECOLLETE GOWN CHEM1SE.
Useful chemises TO be worn with decollete gown
have no shouder-straps. They may fasen over
the shoulder by band and bow OF ribbon. may
be arranged with running string that passes un
der the arms and holds the garment in place over
the bust
In nightgown3 a number OF models cut
with rounded square neck, fastening over the
shoulder or down one side. Some Of these gowns
are rather severe. with deep sailor collar meeting
the sides of the front yoke.
Silk underwear has apparently appeared again,
but in place of lace trimming we have earniture
OF embroidery done on sheer lawn and edged with
4 garment robe de mutt chemise. trimmed with
embroidery and iece-edged rufies OF white lawn,
has dainty effect. although IT is doubtful II silk
underwear ever attains the popularity IL mad lew
years
Among the novelties may be noted pantalons
made OF many of lawn rufing. They are GER
tanly very pretty and easy experiment.
Almost any recent trousseau includes liberal
number of white skirts made or the finest batste
and deliberately trimmed
II is a touch of gentili;y to wear these skirts IN
the house their appearance on the street is
a mode not generally recognized woman who
lifted her dress over a white skirt the other dav
was pursued by a mob down the Boulevard. and in
spite OF linen pettcoat quantity coiffured hair and
certain style OF hat was not de Merode.
I'll
From lingerie II Is natural 10 step TO teagowns and
81 in bie cfiopf