davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

ture of her husband; to another a tiny
Jeweled watch; yet another has her
silver purse, and SO on indefinitely, not
forgetting the lorgnette. The various
articles that hang from the chains are
alternately tucked into the belt or the
front Of the dress.
Just how to wear watch Is some
what Of question now. One woman
wears it attached to jeweled fob and
put outside the collar of her gown. The
fob hanging down in front of the waist
Is quite effective, and really the watch
is safer than when so prominently dis
played on the front of the gown, which
has been the case for some time.
The novelties in hosiery are this
year quite distinctive. The golf stock
ingS now come woven in finer yarn,
and the same effect can be had, so far
as cOlOring is concerned, in cotton, or
even Isle or silk. The regular golf
stockings are. too heavy for most
women's feet, and they gladly welcome
the new style. Exceedingly effective
and pretty are the plaid stockings, and,
worn with patent leather slippers or
Oxford ties, these stockings are ex-
tremely effective. For house wear the
openwork silk in black or brown are
still fashionable, while those embroid-
cred in bows or flowers are quite the
thing.
MANY STOCKINGS NEEDED.
The number of stockings and shoes
which are necessary to a fashionable
outfit is certainly to be wondered at.
Every gown must have it's stockings to
match, and as every pair Of shoes or
boots must be kept on it's own last, 1t
is not remarkable the amount of lug
gage that every well turned-out wo-
man finds it obligatory to travel with.
But, after all, we'll dressed foot does
tune, and even with a long gown feet
have way Of showing that is quite
surprising.
For wear with a black silk or satin
gown the bright red stockings and slip
pers are still in favor while the en-
broidered brown slippers with light
colored gowns are very smart. For
evening wear the slippers made Of the
material Of the gown itself and en-
broidered in rhinestones and pearls are
the daintiest things ina ginable, while
on the plain kid slippers of light col
ors the wee little buckle of rhinestones
gives a very dainty finish.
These kid slippers, by the way, are
not at all expensive, and, besides, clean
well; so that they are not out of the
reach Of women who have to consult
economy. Sensible and matter of-fact
are all the walking boots, and it is con-
sidered very bad style to have a high
heel on them. That is only used on
slippers, and not always then.
The Rage for AmuIets
Amulets are the rage at many of the sum
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
A CHURCH OF HER OWN.
Mrs. Celia Parker WOOlley Installed
Leader of "a New Sect.

Mrs. Celia Parker WOOlley Installed
as Leader of "a New Sect.
Mrs. Celia Parker woolley, of Chi
caeO, formerly a Unitarian preacher,
has been ordained a minister and in
stalled as pastor of the Independent
Liberal church in Chicago.
The name of the denomination she
has Joined describes it. 1t Is broad and
liberal in its tenets, and aims to do the
greatest good to the greatest number
in religious way. The Independent
Liberal church has no permanent home
Of It's own. The congregation, num-
bering about $50, worslhips in Marines
academy, Hampden court, Lakeview,
where dancing lessons are given and
social functions are held on week days.
The hall has a seating capacity of 500.
The purposes of the church are set
forth in this brief statement:
This society is formed for the follow
ing and other kindred purposes:
1. To establish reason and conscience
as final authorities in matters Of re-
ligious belief.
2. To revere as religious prophets all
persons who have taught their fellow
beings truth, Righteousness and love-
3. To foster the growing nobility of
mankind.
4. To promote the social, moral and
intellectual welfare of it's members and
to aid and encourage philanthropic and
humanitarian efforts.
The church was founded about three
years ago by the Rev. Il. G. Milsted.
formerly pastor of Unity church Rob-
ert Collyer's old church), at Dearborn
avenue and Oak street, VINO gathered
into his liberal flock over 100 people,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
STYLES IN WAISTS, BELTS AND SLEEVES.

economists. Even the healthful emo
tons. such as joy, love, ETC.. she makes
hurtful. The average woman cannot
be trusted to avoid excess even when
her feelings are pleasurable ones If
she is cultivated or has been allowed
to cultivate emotions. she is pretty
certain to exaggerate them almost to
hysteria. You are all trying to become
athletes. You ride and row and swim
and run, practice with foils, and
heaven knows what you don't do to
keep well and strong, and yet. If things
go trifie wrong in the kitchen, in the
nursery or in the parlor you work
yourselves up into a state that leaves
you when the reaction comes as limp
as rags. Tramp all you please in the
air, take sun baths, let the rubber come
every day and work over you, try
electricity buy a bicycle, go camping.
Oh! You may test them all and a
dozen other recipes, but you won't
find them of much use unless you know
how to look after vOIIr Vitality."
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
DELFT NAPERY THE LATEST.
Cozy influence of the Holland Blue
at Well-Appointed s O'clock Tea.

Cozy Influence of the Holland Blue
at Well-Appointed O'clock Tea.
Delft blue is the craze in table linen
as well as china The old-fashioned
Dutch pattern that always looks 50
coy in the afternoons, when the days
are drawing in,, and there is an eager
air sweeping through the streets, has
been seen in tea cups and cake plates
for some time. Now we have it in the
napery, and 1t harmonizes with the
china
If you drop in to o'clock tea now-a-
days you will generally find that your
hostess has procured the delft blue
tablecloth, napkins and tea service, and
that she is as proud of it as if she had
a new pair of opera glasses or the
latest thing in dogs. 1t cannot be said
that delft blue gives a better flavor
to the tea or a greater zest to the chat
in the boudoir, but certainly it Is In
tone with everything that is homeliRe
and gentle and refined. And you can
not tell exactly why it has this effect;
you only know that it is the case.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
LITTLE THINGS FOR wOMEN's
WEAR ARE DEAR AND vARI-
Gus.
HUNG WITH GOLD CHAINS.
FUR CAPEs ARE SHORTER THAN
LAST YEAR AND ARE NOT SO
WIDE.
SOME NOVELTIES IN HOSIERY
Heeled Slippers Are Correct In
Footwear.

Dame Fashion this autumn has set
a most elaborate trap to catch the pin
money of the feminine population The
old lady Gor Dame Fashion must be
old has evidently heard that there
is a rumOr of hard times, and has risen
to the occasion and is Offering such in
ducements to women to bedeck them
selves in gorgeous array that they will
have to give up posing for the New
Woman and acknowledge that they
are just ordinary old-fashioned fe-
males, who find in beautiful gowns
and the various accompanying gauds
and baubles too strong a temptation
to be resisted.
Partisan dressmakers have made up
their minds that the severe and the
mannish effects are to be banished,
and the gowns they are sending over
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
THE THEATER HAT,
1t Appears to Be Doomed to Go Out
of Style.

One thing indubitably shown by the
opening of the matinee season is that
the leaven Of hats off, at the thea
tiers has worked among women very
appreciably. At these autumn mat
inees there are still plenty Of
women in shirt waists and sailor hats
and during the performance it is not
1ceable that even these supposedly un-
Objectionable headgear are more often
held in the lap than left on the head.
While the reform movement is work.
ing 1t may as well be understood by
women that there is practically no
middle-of -the-road scheme in this cam
paign. Almost any head covering is
obstructive. Even a high couture
with spreading puffs and a wide comb
may much impede the view of those
directly behind it. 1t is possible, per-
haps. to wear very fiat bonnet, some
thing after the model of the once
popular Alsacian bow creation. that is
endurable, but the moment that a
nodding pompon, q waving aigrette. or
1laring jet wings or wired fans of lace
is added. the mischief is done. At one
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

with one of the tints In the striped
Marie Antoinette silk used for chair
and sofa coverings.
Pale green burlap Is to be a favored
wall covering. A most artistic room
belonging to a most artistic young
woman has the walls In light green
burlap with a frieze of pale green
under a rope holding. The high, mar
row mantel has a drapery OF greenish
fish net caught from an iron ring.
Fish net ecru is pet fabric in studios.
This is about forty inches wide, and
worth a dollar a yard in good quail
ty. There is also Waban netting,
very similar to fish net, which comes
in several shades and is particularly
effective over plain cloth of contrast
ing shade.
Special fitments, as they are termed,
built in bookcases and coy corners,
to fill certain spaces, are always ef-
fective. They add honey" look to
room and give individuality. Ad-
Unstable window seats are made box
fashion and when space must be econ
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

omized serve to hold various odds and
ends. High backed settees which can
be moved about the fireplace at pleas
ure are less common than built in corr
ners and hooks. An artistic arrange-
ment of shelves in corner is q pretty
convenience for ones bedroom Here
may be kept the favorite authors.
choice dish or so, and any other VAL
ued souvenir.
Interiors are too much alike. because
so many people in furnishing a home
prefer to take their ideas from others,
They deliberately choose the tastes Of
others to being guided by their own.
Lace curtains are a city habit: they
are not particularly graceful even in
the most expensive lines and in the
cheap grades they are not even prets
ty. A great many other softly flow.
Ing, easy hanging fabrics are far rnors
beautiful. Draperies are used too
profuSely altogether. Such a thing az
a vista, especially pleasing when found
IN cramped houses is almost unknown,
The Beardsley style Of fancy work
IS something new. So far it has been
used mostly for cushion covers Cloth
figures Of white on black, or black on
white. are edged and appliqued on
with dash Of red Serpentine trace
or cotton. Women with plenty OF
leisure have taken up as a fad the EN-.
broidering of satin or silk covers for
their down quilts. pretty sample
has the center of the cover of figured
satin. Around this Is a wide band of
plain blue of the same shade as the
ground Of the figured Then comes
band Of figured and again a band OF
plain, the whole being finished with a
four-inch ruff1e Of the figured. OF
course this scheme can be varied to
suit individual fancy. On the plain
borders are worked running vines.
This Is not as laborious as it might
sound, as this work is done In outline
stitch, which can be accomplished very
rapidly.
Duck covered boxes for the toilet
table are also a part Of the seasons
fancy work. These are painted with
little Dutch landscapes in delft shades.
The boxes are without ribbon or lace
and look very compact and neat. They
Will doubtless be feature OF Xmas
fancy articles. The only skill re-
CURED is in drawing the duck smoothly
over the box and cover
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

are the most feminine things magma
BILE, with cascades of laces, yards and
yards of ribbon. any number of flounces
and what is designated as fluff. When
the gown is lifted in the street there
is most fetching display of lace and
embroidery and very distinct frou-
frou of drapery, which is in sharp con-
trast to the tailor-made gowns which
evidently are worn over knickerbock-
ers. The rumor has spread abroad
that pantelettes are coming into fash
ion, but this dread statement probably
came from the fact that women were
now trimming their silk boomers with
frills Of lace, an anachronism which is
appallingly absurd.
OBSTACLE TO MATRIMoNY.
In MORE brocades there are some
beautiful designs; broad satin ribbons
are drawn across the MORE and tied
over oak leaves or flowers. This is
all in the pattern or design, while in
the brocaded velvet the material and
patterns seem quite too handsome to
be worn. The gown not only cost
great deal in the materials to start
with, but the trimmings are exceed
1ngly expensive, and as a jabot Of
lace seems necessary, not to mention
SILK Innings and a few other little
trif1es Of that sort, each and all of
which cost a pretty penny, the girls
might as well make up their minds to
make the most of what 1t left of leap
year, for no thoughtful young man
who reads the fashion articles is go
Ing to raShly embark on the sea of
matrimony in the state in which the
clothing market is at present.
The plain skirts Of the fancy brocade
Silks will be worn with waists of DIFF
ferent material, but the material of
the skirt must be used in some wav
or other on the waist as we'll; for in
stance, the back Of the waist NAV
match the skirt, if possible, be so ar
ranged as to give a princess effect,
WhlIe IN front will be a short bolero
jacket Of yellow opening over ruffies
or white lace. The sleeves will be of
the same material also as the skirt and
the collar. and belt of folded silk or
satin, on the bias. A charming example
or this is in heliotrope and yellow
brocade, the skirt very f1aring and
made without trimming On the front
OF the waist in bolero, and falling in
pleats over the sleeves, is velvet of
mauve color. Under these loose fronts
is tight-ftting lining of white satin
on which Is sewed a succession Of ruff
fes of fine white lace; the folded collar
and belt are of yellow satin, while from
the inside Of the collar fall sheer tabs
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

covering for a small room can be had
than cream mating with a few we'll
selected rugs. Bamboo is a bright, sim
ple-looking furniture for such a room.
L. IS inexpensive, and with. fair usage
wears well. Quaint book cases. seats
and writing tables may be found in
bamboo
Silk-paneled walls are quite the
thing where elegance is desired and
expense does not need to be consid-
cred. These are appropriate only in
a drawing room or the best room. A
deep cream satin brocade, called cl1ry-
sophrase, is very pretty. In one room
where the walls were so covered. the
draperies were made of the same, lined
with delicate rose pink. harmonizing
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
THE GLoBEs' SUNDAY, OCTOBER T. 1885,

ner resorts this fall. but as they take the
form of a pretty gem 1t is an open question
whether the fashion is due to a growing
tendency to superstition or to an inherent
love of jewery. The value of the charm lies
In the choice of the stone and here astrology
comes INFO play; the color of the eyes must
also be taken into consideration. The most
powerful cabalistic properties are the opal,
the amethyst, the turquoise and the topaz.
Once chosen and adopted the charm must
never be laid aside: certain injunctions entail
the necessity Of wearing 1t so that 1t shall
be concealed from view--a rule which is prob
ably more hoEored in the omission.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
CHAFING-DIsH DAINTIEs.
Interest in the Art Of Cookery
Shared by both Sexes.


cit cannot be said that interest in
cookery wanes in the absorbing rush
of modern life writes NJ c. Hunger
ford in the October Ladies Home Com
panion, but it may be asserted that
men are beginning to share with
women the knowledge and practice of
the vital art which once was consider
ed out Of their province. Several of
the most valuable cook books have
been written by men, and among the
most useful Of chafng-dis recipes are
those originated by the sterner SEX
Last winter in New York ten
young girls united to form a chafing-
dish club, meeting once a week at the
members houses for a table-cOOked
luncheon until ten meetings had been
held From the results OF small ini-
tiation fee and one or two collections
two prizes were purchased, which
were awarded for the best recipe for
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

urer. The other members of the board
are Mrs. Andrew Crawford. Mrs. Ellen
". Eaton, Amory Bigelow, Charles E.
Affeld, f. C.. Christy and Nicholas
Buschwah. In October other branches
of work win be taken up. such as
philanthropic endeavDrs, sewing So
ciety, literary Clubs and religious study
classes. y nfsa
Mrs. Woolley twas born In Ohio. Al
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

realized that the presence OF a woman that
woman the leaders, wife, was not Just to the
other members of the hazardous and uncertain
expedition. Fru Nansen, in addition to her
sterner qualities Of physical strength and
pluck, possesses, Is we'll known, a voice of
rare sweetness and power. She has sung fire.
quently In concerts during her husbands abb
sence. There is child, small daughter
Of four or five summers, whose odd name,
Lfv, means life" and who. 1t may be guess
ed, Is the idol of her parents.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

Pretty stands for hot dishes are made OF
wrought iron: The design may be oblong OF
circular, as desired
Handsome porridge bowls are of dark blue
china, OVERLAND with silver ornamentation
Sterling silver corners and medallons have
disappeared from the fashionable purses and
card cases.. which are richly plain and Of
choice quality.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

or two matinees recently an occasions,
woman has been noticed wearing a
soft felt hat. not unlike the Anime
shape worn by men. In one case this
curious headgear topped a dresssv
toilet. 1t was DOTTED. however. as soon
as the audience room was entered. and
was carried to the seat where. It's non
crushable qualities made ifEeasily TAX
en- care OF. In the other Instance the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
A Good Iden

In Bavaria woman cannot ride on the
public highway on a bicycle unless she has
a certificate for efficiency.
Which is all good enough in its way, but
why make distinction in the sexes? In
efficient male riders ARE every whit ae aan-
gerous as their wives, daughters and sis
tiers, and need to be controlled with quite
as much statutory vigilance.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

Mrs. Dorothy Tenant Stanley, wife Of
the explorer, has peculiar fad. She. COL
1ects parasols, and has unique collection
from miladys sunshade no larger than a
small fan, popular with the bellies of long
ago, to the carriage parasols of the present
day. with jeweled handles of priceless value
and canopies of rare old lace.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

talents to the law, and until Mrs. Wool
ley came, the church was without an
active pastor.
Donald L. Morrill, is president of the
board Of trustees. A. w. Strong is
secretary, and H. G. Crittenden treas
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
women In the ROYAL Academv,

One fact before all others is apparent
from the criticism Of the exhibition now be-
ing held by the Royal Academy. The paint
ings contributed by women have created un-
usual comment, and are beyond the average.
in spite Of the fact that the honor OF the
line is dealt out according to name and pre-
vious recognition in place of being awarded
to special merit.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

The wife OF DR.. hansen, the distinguished
expiorer-Fru hansen, as is her Norwegian
title-is woman of splendid health ana in
o0mftaoie courage. 1t was her dearest wish
to accompany her husband to the frozen re-
gions. and he would have had no personal
fear OF her danger In permitting It, but both
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
WOMAN IN CHAINS.

Everything now hangs from a chain
worn around theneck. A chain of fine
gold. studded with Jewels. is exceed
ingly pretty and 1t is a fad to wear
two or three at time. One woman.
who rather overdoes things. is at pres
ent wearing seven. each with different
stones. To one is attached the minia-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

rhinestones OF the finest sort are to be
much worn as
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

representing many Of the best families
Of Lakeview, and the society has since
grown. Last fall, however, Mr.. Mil
sted gave UP the pulpit to devote his
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04
of white linen trimmed with fine lace
like that used in the ruffie.
SHORTER FUR CAPES.

OF white linen trimmed with fine lace
ike that used in the ruffie
SHORTER FUR CAPES.
Most women are, to a great extent
guided by the illustrations which APP
pear in magazines. OF course, the
French designs predominant, but it is
point to be remembered that very
often the descriptions and the drawing
itself cannot be followed exactly For
instance, gown will be represented
as finished around the skirt with a
ruche of mousseline de sole or of some
light coiored cloth. Such thing would
look extremely well for perhaps one
quarter of an hour-no longer, and 1t
Is worse than folly to put any light
or delicate material around the bottom
of the gown. Curiously enough, the
white lace or, ruff1es that are on the
inside of the gown and form the bala-
yeuse, do not seem to get the dirt
nearly so quick as the trimming on the
outside.
Fur capes are shorter than those of
last year and not so wide in conse-
ouence of the sleeves being narrower;
but the very short ones, which are
really collars. are wider than ever.
These short capes are not becoming
to short-necked women. who, curiously
enough, have a mad fancy for them.
hC IoAiS DoStS nave lOt yet dpptdTGu,
but there are some short little neck
trimmings which can be worn now on
cool days that are extremely pretty.
Judging from present appearances, it
will not be considered necessary, in
order to be fashionably attired, to wear
more than six tails attached to col
lar. On the muffs, both heads and
tails are ensconced and some of the
big muffs will prove weighty, for large
in themselves, they have the addition
of these tails and heads.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-04

The Rage for AmuIets.
Amulets are the rage at many of the sum-