Evening star., 1896-12-19
f A SHION IN JEWEL S
Nearly Every Article That Woman Wears
viii Be Studded.
Stones Are the Fnd-Penrls. Real or
False. md How They should
he Worn.
From the New York Hei-ii,l.

From the New York Herail.
This is bejeweled age, Never before
have American women so proiigany adorn-
ed themselves and all their beion yings with
precious and semi-precious stones. Scarcely
an article of dress or dainty accessory of
the toilet has ESCAPED
Purses, card cases, lorgnons lorgnettes
girdles, belts, vinaigrettes large and small
fans. combs. portfolios. powder boxes hair
brushes, harpin boxes. ring boxes-ore and
all. in short, of the innumerable articles
that put the polishing touch to a woman's
toilet and that furnish that intricate thing
her dressing table. are bejeweled to the
last degree. The things with which the
dressing table is strewn are ornamented
with semi-precious stones. The coat OF
arms or initials of the fair owner outlined
III small diamonds, turquoises emeralds
-ol course the color of the stone one a.
fects-is greatly governed by the hanginss
oL one room, as symphony in color is
tne Keynote to success In everything
Enamel:ng is also much in vogue and
toiiet sets are made with the same design
ana coloring repeating itself on each ar
ecie. burmese gold is invariably used now
LOT the mounting of everything, silver be-
ing distinctly out of it, even in a fashion
able sense. Every woman has her string
| or strings of pearls. Often they assume
such proportions that rope is a more de-
sS'AfiiNe Wofu-SO necessary an adjunct
nave tney become to a woman en- grande
toilette that the great Worth himself lust
before his death, advised those of his
chents that could Got through the paucity
OF their purses afford to adorn their white
throats with real pearls to wear clever imi-
tations
His successors have gone further. and II
nladams toilet is incomplete, and a string
fesses she is without pearls and likely to
remain so, 1t is graciously suggested that
madame's toilet is incomplete. and a string
or more of exceptionally clever imitation
pearls fastened, il madam wishes, with
small diamond clasp, will be sent with the
gown II madam is possessed of any
wealth at all she can easily convince her
friends at home that they are lucky
nnd. picked up as great bargain on the
continent. But oftener madam chooses
nowadays to be delciously frank about the
matter. and will declare laughingly it is not
Tor their value. but their becomingness
that she cherishes them. Collars of pearls,
elsht TO twelve strings wide, held in place
py diamond slides, are another necessary
detail III woman's toilet today-necessary
literally, for one must wear something
about ones throat in evening dress to bal.
ance the fiuffiness of the coiffure we have
adopted. along with the rest of the other
fashions. whose origin Is easily traceable to
the time when Marie Antionette was queen
TO be sure, the ladies of lesser fortunes
10 Whom pearls were an impossibiiity were
content to rely upon a simple band of black
velvet. with or without a jeweled clasp, to
lena symmetry to their ensemble. but such
simplicity is. perhaps, q wee bit too much
to ask OF the woman Of today.
Extravasant Collars.
The most extravagant collars are formed
OF solid mass Of diamonds. combined with
pearls, rubies. emeralds or turquoises. En-
circling the throat in a scintillating band
OF many lights This casts a glamor over
the face that makes a plain woman pretty,
and a
With the collar formed of the string OF
pearls 1t Is quite fad to wear a thin
gold chain. slender almost to invisibility
ten inches or so long, and pendant from II
TWO large. pure stones of contrasting
colors. set one above the other in tiny
bands of gold. A diamond and an emerald
is the f,vorite combination.
The Merfe Antoirette coiffure-or rather
what we call the Marie Antonette coif-
fure-makes side and top combs an abso-
lutte necessity, for without their aid the
loose. fluffy look every woman strives for
Is absolutely unattainable. Jeweled side
and top combs have been worn some time
but 1t remained for this season to develop
the three In one. Very like an old fashion
ed child's round comb is this latest thing
In combs. With the exception of 1t being
trife longer on the sides and being fur
nished with graduating teeth, that reach
a greater depth across the top it is iden-
tically the same thing. When it is set with
small brilliants all around 1t is altogether
that 1t accurately fits the head
The most stunning thing for the hair
takes the form of two large branches of
mowers, to be worn on either side Of the
in Gismonda." These flowers are formed
of myriads of brilliants of all sizes. so
lightly set as to have little weight and
to rest comfortably in place. Women who
own tiaraS are bemoaniBg their fate for
tiaras and the coiffure of the moment
are decidedly not on speaking terms, and
it Is the tiara that has to suffer.
The woman with the G:smonda head
season.
This same woman has a pair of gold
opera glasses. which have just been fin
lshed which are studded with diamonds
Enameled opera glasses are very much
used. and are SO wonderfully cheap they
are within the reach of everybody
Of 1eWeled devices for the corsage there
is no end. the most beautiful one on ex-
hibition being briolet valued at $1,000. 1t
is thickly intrusted with small brilliants
in a Louis NV design, and dozen pierced
diamonds dangle from 1T. The art of pierc-
ing these diamonds is most difficult and
often a man will work for three weeks
to make the tiny incision, which is no
larger than the finest needle when finished
The work on this remarkable jewel was
all done here.
est fad, tut they are rarely successfully
cut, and when most successful can scarce
ly be called beautiful, so the fad promises
to be short lived Sapphires are more
easily engraved. and nothing is smarter
for mans ring than a shield sapphire
engraved with a crest or coat of arms, and
mounted In a massive gold setting.
The Empress Eugene is credited with
having possessed the most beautiful Jewels
Of this century. Certainly no others have
served more largely models.
Belts and buckles form the province
which jewels have invaded in full force
Every buckle that is not jeweled is scorn-
ed, and plain belts are merely tolerated,
unless they are of Russian manufacture
Then they are allowed to rank next to
their more luxurious confreres
or the two belts sketched, ore is Rus
sian gold braid, studded with five large
amethysts set in Etruscan gold. The clasp
Is formed of three picked amethysts simi-
larly set, the middle amethyst being a
specimen stone nearly two inches in
length.
Amethysts Fashionable.
Amethysts were brought into fashion less
than year ago, and their vogue has as
sumed tremendous proportions SO much so
that they are threatened with the fate of
-popularity-extnction.
While violet and purple are SO much worn
these jewels are bound to prove of incalcul-