The herald., 1896-03-29

ecrse wrinkles sewed upon tight lin
fng-or the shape of the shoulder itself
Is left nobly defined. while succession
of three or four flounces seem to have
chased each other down half way to the
elbow and to have stuck in mid arm. OF
the two, the latter is least new, being
but an extreme form of the long shoul-
o the Eye a9a aaas Y hpRS fesye om Hgapsh S
lines long held conventional, and it is
consequently rather the favorite. Even
in the sleeves, most nearly like the old
models. there is usually an evident in
tent to cut close to the under side of the
arm and pile the drapery up on the out
side. leaving the shape of the arm well
defined. when seen from the front.
A third device of the new might be
mentioned. 1t has the example of Mrs.
I.angtry and. before her, of London
society beauty, to commend it. In this
form the sleevc-of an evening frock, of
course--consists of but a swirl of mus
lin. silk or chiffon. fastened at the front
of the shoulder and draped loosely un-
der the arms as far down as the elbow.
1t may be added that the dress distin-
guished by this device in the actress
case has down the skirt front two huge
panels of embroidered blue cornflowers,
with conventional leaf scrolls surround
ing them. tied at three points with true
lovers knots worked out in golden Sc
Quins.
Many Of the new spring dresses, even
for afternoon wear, show panels of
black velvet over gray and tiorid bro
caded and figured designs, or conversely,
with riotous display of brocade panels
enlivening the sober goods. So long as
this is not usual. however. good taste
but pshaw! "A pretty woman fiinging
the wanton colors to the sun or electric
light. sheening in all her plumage like n
bird of Paradise, is the best of taste.
Madam, you can break no laws, you can
only make them!
The teagown, to which indeed they
came first and are not appropriate will
probably longest cling to the simple
sleeves if ii give them up at all. A very
smart teagown i'll pale heliotrope silk
with loose soft sleeves of the same tint
and with bands of embroidery down the
front and across the square yoke is Il
good example of the old that is yet new
enough. And there are others with the
hatefully mathematical accordion
plated puffs which we get with other
ugly ideas from London.
Loose bands of tulle will go on many
of the hats this sprng-lke the pug
garees that one reads about In the stor-
les of East Indian life. There is new
horse hair braidng tnat will be much
used for trimming purposes; there are
t2que crowns composed entirely of iri-
descent sequins, red and yellow, sewn
upon lace OF net; there are plenty Of lit
tie Princess bonnets-full of charm
there are coarse French straws in pale
green with green chiffon bows for be-
deckment; there will be great demand
for small white flowers, such as valley
lilies and white violets, for sunny wea-
ther hats; there will be theatrical hats
of black straw, trimmed with white and
black ribbon and white and black plumes;
there will be white velvet hat crowns
sewn all over with jet and gold-in q
word, riot of color and sheen of metals
like the purple and gold of the cohorts
of the Assyrlans. Assuredly gay sea-
son.
1t is written in the book of life that
all changes shall be development Even
tricky fashion obeys the immutable
laws; the beef-eater hat Of autumn will
merge itself this spring into several
quaint seeming headgear, the dlstin-
gushing characteristic of each being a
high, square and emphatic crown. These
square crowns are especially pronounced
In the rough, coarse straws which will
he SO popular. The butterfly toque of
last season will literally take to itself