The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1896-10-11
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Skirts and sleeves.


The general outline of dress is toned
down to n moderate degree of fulness as
to skirts and sleeves, which is a decided
Improvement, unless we look upon the new
sleeve. so nearly tight, as the Inauguration
of ugly uncomfortable fashion. 1t is
not here yet, however, for there is at least
enough fGllnesS at the top to suggest the
abnormal structure recently discarded
and, as old fashions are rarely ever re-
vived without some modern Improvement
there is hope for the tight sleeve which
seems so imminent The fact that the
close sleeve accentuates every defect ir a
dlSproportioned arm will tend to strengthen
womans protest against it, and so the
cape and draped effects, short puffs of
continue to decorate the tops of our sleeves
for some time to come The muskmel0n
puff and the short puff slashed once on the
top to show the tight sleeve underneath
are both popular styles, while the plain
mutton leg, very much smaller In size is
still worn.
Another sleeve which Is quite new shows
n small puff at the elbow, and another
puff a trihe larger at the shoulder, and
sleeve are made with three half-circular
pieces which are set in without gathers at
the armhole. flute on the edges. and taper
to q point underneath the arm. One wide
Trtfl is also very good style. made in two
pieces with the opening on top ami trimmed
ribbon. The perfectly tight sleeves with
a snort cape effect at the top are perhaps
the latest design but the best selection is
always the one which is most becoming
All the sleeves seem to be extreme in
length and cut and shaped to flare well
over the hand This effect is often made
by an added cuff, and in either case it IS
lined with some pretty colored silk and
nlled In with lace or plated chiffon.
As usual 1t is the details of dress which
demand our special attention III we would
be quite up to date. and the wide folded
belts OF black satin are stu a conspicuous
feature of fashion, although the newest
belts are quite little narrow er than those
worn in the summer. They are made of
ribbon or bias satin. which is better be-
cause 1t is more easily fitted TO the figure,
sash end, sci a little way apart at the back
are novel finish Rosettes of black lace
with fancy button in the center are al
so very effective. and other belts open at
edge tapping over the fastening to- to-
inch and a half wide double friIl and dec
on rated with two ieweled buttons. The wide
slender women only. and while the short
WASTED women may use the wide belt II
must be of the same color and. if possible
the same material as the rest of the bod
ice. One of the pretty faEcies this season
is TO trim the belts with narrow black vel
Vet ribbon and make them much wider in
font than at the back.
The semi-annual cry that waists unlike
the skirts are not to be worn this season
is heard again, and it is true that many of
the new gowns have waists like the skirts
but there is almost invariably another
three colors. with possibly lace or jet COM
bined with this. so that it requires a Sec
ond glance to discover any resemblance to
the skirt except in the sleeves.
Chameleon silk waists with wide linen
collars. and waists of soft lowered silks
made full above the wide satin belt are
very much in evidence. and the Louis
t2uinze coats Of light brocaded silks are
shown among the new styles to be worn
with light cloth skirts
Skirts. in general, have been prlIned
down TO four and a half and five yards of |
fuliness at the bottom. fit closely over the |
hips. and are deeidedIy GRACEFUL in shane |