The News-Herald. [volume] (Hillsboro, Highland Co., Ohio) 1886-1973, 1896-07-16
EUROPEAN LETTER.
(rrom our Special corrsspondsns.)
Rome, Italy, June 2, 1898.

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Rome, Italy, June 2, 1898.
A French writer has said that an
Englishman listens to music; a French.
man hears II; . German analyses it, and
and italian feels it. However this may
be, no one can be long in the land Of
Verdi and Rossini without realizing
that this is the country Of music; 1t i'm.
presses every visitor with the force Of an
original observation. There is music
every afternoon In the public parks or
squares; music d sthe soldiers march
through the streets, music at almost any
hour In the countless churches, and
what is most striking, the loungers and
beggas lift up their voices land very
good voices they are, as rule) not in
the hope of q few extra pennies, but
just for the Joy of singing. The boys
that stroll along the streets sing in.
stead Of whistling and their selections
denote more classical taste than is
possessed by their brother gamins in
America. One hears the Sicilina from
Cavalleria or the solo from Mignon in.
stead Of "Only One Grip or paradise
Alley" One is liable to be awakened at
any time between midnight and day.
break by resounding duets or choruses,
as citizens roam from the cafe.chantants
no omeward; but instead of arresting them
on the charge of "drunk and disorderly",
ha/gendarmes listen with the air of
/, c6hnoisseurs, and show an inclination
to interfere only when the singers hap.
pen to be off the key. As a matter of
fact, they are not drunk; they merely
with to give expression to the music
with which every Italians soul is filed.
Fur change, one can hear almost
any day the lugubrious chant of funeral
professions. The mourners 90 on foot,
and there is always long line of monks,
carrying lighted candles and singing.
Sometimes they are accompanied by the
Misericordia, and then it is sight worth
seeing. This is a charitable fraternity
which assists in the last offices for the
dead. They wear long white robes
with sort of pillow slip over the
head, holes being cut for the eyes, and
they look more like guests at phantom
party than anything else. 1t is not
soothing to the nerves to meet them for
the first time when you are in lonely
street, or towards dusk. They glide
'-jlently past, their black eyes watching
lou from behind the white masks.
ere are q number of mobiles who be.
Ehg to(the fraternity, but they can be
Vstinduished from their companions
BY the elegant footgear, of which
catches occasional glimpses. Some
Years ago at the funeral of Prince Bar
bsrini, who was member of the
brotherhood, the entire Misericordia
came barefoot, and a lady present told
me that it was amusing to see how
gipgerly some of them walked.
The nomenclature of the streets in
Rome is picturesque and varied. When
one finds oneself unexpectedly in the
street of Purification, the Road of Per.
lection, or the lane of Penitence, one
half believes they have stepped into the
Pilgrims Progress. The streets of the
Silver Tower, the Little Cakes, the
Five Moons, or the Iron Jaw have a
more secular sound. 1t is startling
when you have lost your way in for.
bidding part of the city, and are search.
ing anxiously for the name of the street,
to find that it Is the Broken Head, OF
the Lions Mouth. but at the next
corner you are resssured by finding
yourself in Good Company, and your
footsteps may presently lead you into
the Lane Of the Holy Ghost or the street
iof the Twelve Apostles. The street ol
the Twentieth Of September, fine
bfoad avenue, leads to the gate that was
demolished on that eventful date in
Italian history, when Garibaldi entered
the Eternal City and the temporal
power Of the Pope was overthrown.
The street Of the Mouth of Truth is 80
called from recess In the wall OF q
church, into which olden citizens OF
Rome put their hands when taking an
oath-perhaps more sanitary arrange.
ment than our modern method of kiss.
ing the Bible. Then there is the street
Of the Two Slaughter Houses (now lined
with elegant residences); the street of
the Cruciied, the Alley of the White
Oross; and many streets, avenues, and
arcades of the Queen Margherita.
Among the most striking figures to be
seen In this land of bright colors, are
the nurses employed BY wealthy famil.
ies. Their costumes comprise blue or
pink skirts (often of stiffened satin)
With vide stripe OF contrasting color
around the bottom. On the head is q
large bow Of ribbon, with streamers
.~&>l&~,r. A. <Lo fnok fOhov oa~pv Thai.