The morning times., 1896-10-18
rlrs. Whitney and Mrs. Cleveland
Conform to the New Stand
ard-Princess of Wales
Cannot-P Plump
PrettineSS.

difficult. This can only be done by raising
the hair and dressing the neck low. A
necklace shortens the neck and must not
be worn unless the neck is so long as to
be ungraceful, but that would be very
long, indeed, for necks that would make
swan sick with envy are the fashion this
season.
The modelling OF the nose sounds moss
impossible, but even 1t can be ACCOMPLISHED.
uose can be made longer by a touch
OF powder upon each side, where the nose
is too plump, and by the tiniest touch OF
red upon the inside OF the nostrns. The
last is practiced by the Parlsiau beauties
and by a few Londoners; but American
women think it savors too much Of a red
nose or a sore one. In touching the nos
trls with red the Parisians are exquisteIy
delicate, aud the tiniest daub OF the rouge
is prouounced enough, while we, with
clumsier fingers, put on the red until we
can see it. Perhaps that is one reason
the practice OF rUugeing s not in favor
here.
Aud here a word about the use OF
paint and powder upon the face Tie
professional beauty in style this year uses
almost none of either paint or powder.
her eyes bright Instead of being treated
externally. But wien necessary there ars
many who contend that its use is more than
juStiiiable-nay, obligatory. They say il
is as necessary to a woman's delicacy in
some cases, where biemisbcs are to lie
hidden, as the perfume that pervades her
garments, or the gloss upon her lair. or
the waves upon her temples That is their
ar NIL iEn"f urf,
The oyeruse is what has brought them iuto
disfavor; never their proper use A gen.
tlemau who bad always inyeighed against
the use OF powder said to his wife. after
talking TO Mrs. Cleveland at a White
House reception, why can't you powder
like that" He referred to the exquisite
smootbness OF the skin OF the Presidents
wIfe aud inferred that it was done by
treatment"
Mrs. Cleveland conforms charmingly to
tine new style Of beauty. She parts her
hair. lengtheus her neck by rounded bUdices
and sees that her threat line is not de-
stroyed. She is really 4 new tcauty. Mrs
Whitney is the same, and il her wedding
rUte was superb.
Tic plump outline OF the face so reces-
saEy with the siinu,eS figure is mana ged
10y massage. Seventy-fiye strokes OF the
chin night and morning are warranted to
keep the neck firm and free from the
''hriSket" so dreaded by beauties past their
zenith Bernhartt. thin as She is and old
as shei is has this plump chin and there ars
society women who boa st Of it while being
too slim for the weight allowed them for
proportions.
ArabsGlutcneed OF the professional beauty
Of this season is the bowed mouth. This
can be accomplished only by touch OF
red. If nature has been uukind in the meter
Of Cupid bow mouths. The Japanese ladies
understand this touching Of the lips, and
carry with them tiny pieces of prepared
red skin which being moist ened and touch
cd to the lips, leaves blush Of red behind.
Those who have pretty mouths-and mose
American women have-can try biting the
! lips or, rather, pressing them between the
teeth gently and observe the effect. II the
mouth looks like bow the work has been
well done, and no more is necessary. II
there is, instead ur n bow, long rcd line,
snmethiug else must be done.
touch OF powder ut each side Of the
mouth makes it smaller. You can make the
mouth into yeritable rosebud by shortening
it at the sides; but rosebud mouths are not in
style, and you must cultivate the bow. This
is done by putting a touch OF red upon the
uuderlip and two touches of color upon the
upperlip. .oneat each sideof therniddle crease
of the lip. This makes true bow,