Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1896-09-10
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Fail and Winter Millinery - Featiiers =
Ribbons Shapes New Materials styles
In Masking -)ackets-wraps-


In Making -,ackets-Nraps-
Special tcrre 'pondonr NJ ,sazeite andJoiira
New York, Sept. AIN fall millinery,
the exaggcration of summer is quite
equalled or perhaps exceeded, SINCE a
massing of heavy trimmings must be more
pronounced than when garnitures are light
in character. Wings extend outwards and
upwards in grotesque style and are often
rendered most unnatural in appearance,
because attached to the bodies of cora
paratively small birds. Sometimes, how
ever. birds are markedly large and both
are frequently dyed in colors unknown to
dcnizens of the forest. Bird of Paradise
plumage is In great demand and is seen
not only in the long, waving styles, but
made INTO In'rnpons ,'y rlcd over in groups
Of three. In general, birds and their
plumage form an important part of mil
linery trimmings, nor must ostrich feath-
ers be omitted from the list, since they
give in many examples, the refined finish
peculiarly their own. Velvet ribbons five
inches wide and tastefuliy sha.cd, are con
spicuous and equally wide and elegant
styles show n border of MORE ON either
side of a central velvet stripe. Other new
ribbons are woven throughout in MORE
patterns and compete with those that on
satin surface, display leaves and flowers
in velvet brocadc. Plain taffeta ribbons
in old Dutch colOrs, are thereby rendered
novel and all the varieties named, grad
uate from five inches to one in width.
Velvet costing $21 the yard, is richly en-
broidered in beads or silk and used for
soft crowns, while for stiff ones, circular
shapes come heavily worked in gilt beads
or silk.
Shapes in millinery are of necessity
bread brimmed, in order to support masses
of trimming. Modified sailor shapes
turned up at the back, are in favor; NUM-
erous others are still wider and choice is
given in crowns, since although some re-
main low, others rise five inches in height.
Felt is "A necessity, yet more dressy eX-
amplcs initiate the fancy straws of the
summer, by weavings of satin. felt and
chenille and marked varieties have
smooth, high HEAVIER crowns, while inter-
lacngs of open work in the brims. Small
shapes for elderly persons or theatre hats
are seen aud some of rather small size,
lose all identity by masses of bold garnit-
ure piled upon them.
New wool materials shown by Lord &
Taylor, are extremely attractive and of
course. stylish as we'll Canvas woods fol-
low summer ideas in weave, but as may
he supposed colorings are dark; patterns
being rich assemblage of flower and leaf
designs nlassed together. Equally hand
some woods are woven In red cords that
traverse the breadth and broken rep cords
also running across, give variety. These
woods also, show dark hued leaf and floral
designs set close. Loosely woven checks
in indistinct shades, are more conven-
tional and less in price, yet will be freely
worn by stylish women and II may be
added that preference will he shown en-
| tire dresses, rather than black skirts and
independent waists. A great run on the
| last named styles, has at last caused
some WEAKNESS and they have certainly
therefore, lost prestige.
New designs, while not markedly diff
| ferent from those hitherto fashionable,
| show decided moderation in the size of
| sleeves. In majority of examples, they
are tight to the elbow or above it and the
| puff at the top is i'm no case exaggerated
unduly. An appearance of length below
the elbow is given by cuffs that overhang
the hand and in case of too long an arm
| which indeed is not infrequent, some ex.
| aggeration here, is noticeable. At the
same time, as the cuffs just mentioned
tend to conceal defects in the hand, theiI
general use may be safely reckoned upon
Skirts remain much the same as hitherto
and should innovations be made, they will
be deferred until later in the season.
Among new features, braiding may be
noted ms effective. Quite elegant gowns
of plain cloth, are to be set OFF by braided
| sleeves, vests. rcvers and touches on the
skirt and favorite style will be to hav,
the close portion of the sleeve braided ant
the pulled portion plain. In such gowns
u pointed vest heavily braided, is espec
tally in favor, with revers to correspond
If desired. Sometimes corsages only, will
he braided and in this may he observed
continuation of the idea which at present
is popular-that of n fancy cOrsage witt
plain sleeves. Combinations of different
materials will also remain in favor and il
can hardly be otherwise, since they hav,
been productive of so much that is hand
some and also contributed so Largely Il
economy, that they are almost necessity
Short braided jackets seen at leadn,
summer resorts, are the prelude to VIVA
may he expected this fall. Covered heav
lily, they are rendered very dressy and con
sidrrcd choice when worn over light sum
mer gowns. As matter of course. fal
capes will show braiding as marked feat
lrc nnd this the more 50. since every idra
in the way of trimming, seems to hav,
been exhausted. the result having Otter
been promiscuous heaping together Of
garnitnre which has produced only til,
bizarre.
Mrs. Rim fall millinery, green |,
A
tint in tinged by red, but yellows are s.
handsome that they hold their own. ,ira,
is also to be conspicuous and colors ar,
combined with the utmost freedom. AL
however, take on new shadings and hav,
therefore Il peculiar appearance. thes,
novel hues being called ''old Dutch
colors. Rosalind Nav.
Worth Knowing.
Strong nitric acid has rot pine ano
sawdust afire in loss than three min