The morning times., 1896-11-15
FURs AND cLoAks.
Long Garments with the High Crimson
Hats All the Rage.

The mode is more and more fixed for jack
cts, except with evening dress. where, as
always, the wrap needs to be loose. There
are, 1t is true, fashion papers. that continue
to show capes bristling with godets. Pre-
sumably the designers find 1t easier to &c
on making what they have learned how Ia
make. The ract remains, nevertheless, that
such cape Will hardly be found today in
| any first-class private drcss-making house
| IN faris. They are considered Out oi date.
have celebrated in former letters
The short loose coat, and there is little
ne" 10 add Some Of them are trimmed
| round the bottoms 1t is an ancient
idea revived that looks quaint and novel
| To-Day. Thus skating costume OF gray
corduroy has sable facinss round the neck
n sable band round the bottom of the loose
| coat, and another band round the bottom
OF the skirt. Nothing more jaunty and
charming could be imagined. Much in
,he present fashions seems to be Influenced
| by The Elcycle, and certainly if the godet
| cape had not worn its natural days out
the bicycle would have brought about its
| abandon. It's found a convenience to have
ones dress easily adaptable, ,andnothingg goes
better for bicycle dress than the short loose
skirt.
Long cloth redingotes are being made.
This garment is virtually an out.uf-door
princess gown. With a skirt OF the same
IL makes fashionable dress for calls, public
receptions and private views 1t should
give an effect of length and slimness to be
chic, and 10 this end must be nicely fitted
round the hips, the sleeves be nodestly
Small and the collar very high The front
may be single or double breasted and
rtted close or half loose. One Of violet
cioth Is lined with white squirrel and has
facihss of silver fox.
Inc tiont draws across diagonally with
seme wrinkles and is fastened with large
enamelled buttons in imitation of Fioren-
tine Mosaic. a Very notable one made
for an actress in new play, is OF chamois
colored cloth with white bear fur and
exquisite mother-of-pearl buttons engraved
III an open work design. 1t is with such
long siren like garments as this that
The high crowned hat may be worn, and
the hat made for this dress has a high
square crown. with the narrow brim
rolled up on both sides. m UGH like a mans
SIR hat in Beau Brummel's day. 1t Is OF
whlte beaver with u black velvet band
fastened in front with n rhinestone
buckle and high pompon trimming.
Regarding furs, sealskin seems to have
lost some ot its old vogue, if one NAV
Judge by the number of black Astrakhan
Jackets that seem to outnumber, IL to l,
IL Is curly Astrakhan that is used for
these Jackets. They are greatly enriched
TINS year by buttons Of engraved silver
ana other precious materials. These pre-
clous buttons have 80 taken the fancy as to
put the threatened brandcbourgs quite
out of court. Half length capes for re-
ccp'Ions and evening wear are made OF
iuhs' haired lamb. white or black Ermine
Is scarcely used except on cloaks Trim
ihihg turs are sable and silver fox and
their limitations. TIppets with head
ana tail are still worn and are large,
NUTS are small ana are untrimmed.
a hcte!lE III CNcHing Claaks is a long
loose coat with good deal of fulIness
'eHihn prov ided wan large sleeves That
are mol closed In at the wrist but that
TAU as great ruffles the length of the
NAM. Sometimes these rufrles are pro-
ionged and labot down the sides of the
CLOAK IN wings. Some exquisite drapcry
effects are thus obtained III which color
contrast plays part. As for example
with black rnoirc outside and a dull old
rose lining. This same garment may be
cut To half length.
III large number of afternoon and home
evening gowns the belt plays a great part.
and basque bodies are scarcely seen at ALI
Many belts are in pointed girdle form and
some have long sash ends behind. The
hodice With such belts must fit rather clos.
ana mas often the outside material of the
back cut bias and drawn smoothly over the
ihing, without seams. Bodice trimming is