The Republican journal., 1896-01-30

.F - THE EASTERNMOST ISLAND OF
'Et HIPELAG0. BALLS AND Burr
Ala PORTUGUESE.
correspondence of The Journal
eA DELGApA, SAN MIGUEL, Dec.
We have been improving our last
the Azores by a flying visit to
Maria. the smallest island of the
and the one that lies nearest to
Though only A miles southeast
lbs big island of san Miguel, the
TRANCE to say, remained undiscov-
~ wears after Gonzalo Cabral had
at first tiny speck in id-ocean, I'm
nd named it in honor of the Blessed
. st MarY's is not often visited
.u SITS, because there is no harbol in
c.-trous reefs that surround it. and
.ri-. most ocean steamers give it
.I.l-A Its trade is conducted through
adi4m of san Miguel, as that of Pico
oh Fayal and of Corvo through
and many small native boats ply
tuuy between in favorable weather
opened that the Portuguese Royal
~ As sailing that way on her monthly
4ld We determined to risk it, trust
Providence to get back somehow
So The channel in time for the steamer
I'd four days later, upon which We
tiken passage for another journey.
Pee Royal Mall sounds well, but fair
-l was right when she remarked.
WHAT'S in a nance The Portuguese
.aa0n,I is low-lying affair, broad, squat
la inconceivably dirty, emitting from
uuuel the blacklist smoke that ever
tl tine atmosphere. AS she was to
-. a daybreak we went aboard betimes:
uQt too early to miss many Boa
-en. good voyage), shouted after us
ye -kHfried down the narrow street.
kindly folk among whom we had
many friends. Not 50 early either.
-Aat the harbor was an astir: with
-aL boats setting out for the day s
ships bound seward with all sails
th-Ish barques, waiting for their
IftIs and several from our own
L-F lying the flag SO doubly dear to
Niles when seen in ''foreign parts
The latter Was a Boston packet of
Aims line. which has been doing
siness with these islands for many
aud sends a vessel about once a
90 make the round of Azoren
- There was also a New Bedford
onc Of those storm-detYing craft
ae The watery globe in search Of
apa blubber, generally getting back
uoine-purt after two or three wears
u0e and another rakish- looking New
a craft, suspected of being one Of
accommodating vessels that still
di~Cleetly around the Azores.
lh- for signal fires by night which
ate cargoes OF runaway Portuguese,
lretel t. become New Bedford and
.Ueester fishermen until SO years of age
tle doubtful glory of island military
'Oe. A queer schooner rugged ship,
f-llN deck and poop, followed us closely
Lob Sea-her crew hairy lot, all arm
N.h savage OK goads, like the pixies of
llah Iicadores in the bull-ring. Were
pirates, about to step on board pres
and invite us to walk the plank? Oh.
only harmless carniceiros, (butchers(
"H Ponta Delgada, going over TO St.
Nary for another load of the fine, sleek
ttte for which the island is famous. The
est craft of all was met midway: a
f'r between Havanese lighter and a
No." York North River scow, with high,
e-storY cabins overhanging stern and
low, above double Understanding
Ee ihe ancient galleons of the dim old
hts. 1t was rugged with single sail,
tltly Of patched canvas and partly of
,h- mating, which tapped idly above
a.orher brown faced, hairy breasted crew,
ng about in the picturesque attitudes
q the ope ratio stage on a cargo COM
Used entirely of pottery from St. Mary S.
his native pottery is a coarse kind, fit
ny for common domestic purposes: but
shaped in quantity artistic designs and
punted before baking in bright reddish
cure which gives the jars the gay APP
trudnce So becoming to the island Rebec-
Is who carry them on their heads to the
7lrQgs and wells. 1t is made only in ST.
l} s, and is exported in large quanti-
.'> not only to San Miguel and the other
e'ds, but even to Spain, Brittany and
'' West Indies; and is always taken in
'A loads, just as we saw it in the craft,
lacked, but without danger of break
'a So well is it made.
santa Maria is only ID miles long by
SIS than 9 miles wide, with volcanic
ocks strewn all about. alternated with
s"is Of limestone, the whole honey comb
'i beneath with innumerable stalactic
ems, in whose labyrinthian passages
lS said that a boatman may lose him
self and never find the light of day. Its
Adustrious people, some 5000 strong,
manage to raise everything for their own
assumption, and to export considerable
wheat, besides the cattle and pottery be-
'ore mentioned. l am not going to weary