Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-10-10

tumn. No woman is
supposed to think in summer time and if
she does, it is the height of bad taste to
say SO In company. Even in the winter
when everybody takes up the serious things
OF life. 1t isn't considered good form to dis
ctss them at social gathering. Hence
the club Is necessity, more so for women
Than men, because women have not the OPP
portunities of the hotel lobby, the billiard
|. and smoking rooms Of mems cafes, and
that ever ready political auditorium, the
corner of the street.
In general, however. unless the club is
organized for political purposes all ques-
tons CT politics are ruled out.
Sorosis, which is the best known woman's
club in the country does not allow any dis
cussion of either religion or politics at its
meetings. This sisterhood meets on the
first Monday Of every month from October
TIL June. inclusive, and discusses some i'm
portaEt theme of public interest at each
meeting.
Last Monday was their first assemblage
OF the season. and the subject was the
broad one Of philanthropy. The ladies he
gan to come in at high noon and devoted
the nrst hour or so to friendly greetings
after the summer separation after which
they ate luncheon together preliminary to
the afternoons discussion.
Stunning Costume.
There seems to be some difference of
opinion as to the proper style of dress for
these occasions, and as this particular
club Is quite cosmopolitan in its member
ship. 1t furnishes a good average of fashion
In costumery. Many of the ladies come in
their ordinary street gowns. An extremely
stunning costume was worn for the first
time this season by young woman who
led the discussion Of philanthropy. 1t was
made of blue cloth with trimmings of vel
vet and braid. The skirt was ornamented
with scroll pattern of the braid running
up IN two lines in front The bodice. which
was tight-htting and made of velvet, had
an overJacket like a short Elton trimmed
with braid. The sleeves were tight. with
very small puffs at the top But the most
stunning part of her costume was the hat
which was of blue felt, with black trim
| mings. The crown was very high, and had
straps Of velvet around it. fastening with
tiny buckles at one side. Six ostrich
feathers stood out like a fan beside the
crown, and dropped over the hair
underneath the brim
The fashion of putting feathers on the
under side of hats is gaining in favor. Os
trich plumes are generally used, but a hat
| with an immense bunch of cock feathers
| hanging over the hair and even brushing
| one side of the face was worn by another
speaker on the topic of the day.
Some ladies, especially those who read
| papers or furnished music, were dressed
| very elegantly, either in their visiting
gowns or in fancy waists. In speaking of
| fancy waists. however. it is necessary to
| say that the newest ones usually have a
| part of the material of the skirt inserted
somewhere as trimming. 1t is. therefore, a
| very good idea in making skirt that is
| to be worn with separate waists to make
| an Elton jacket to match the skirt so that
| 1t can be slipped on over any fancy chiffon
| or silk waist, thus giving the effect of a
whole new suit every time one changes her
skirt.
Lace Pieces In Jacket Form.
Lace pieces to be put on in jacket form
| over any dress are now being sold at very
| moderate prices. One can buy a pretty
| bolero of handsome Russian lace in cream
or black at prices ranging from 1915 to
| 81. These can be worn over dark or light
materials and are very dressy. They are
| also made Of embroidered chiffon, spangled
| net or any decorative material used as
| trimming. Even narrow lace nay be sew
| ed around bodice In bolero form, as the
jacket effect is the essential object
| Jacket fronts of thin material suggest
| the ruff1ed shirt fronts that men used to
| wear in colonial times. Fronts Of chiffon
! have chiffon rutf1es edged with lace running
| crossWise and covering the entire surface.
| These will be worn all winter with cloth
! dresses, to brighten them up
! Whole lace or chiffon bodices are pre-
ferred. however. as the Elton jacket is
more fashionable than the Louis style, and
as it is short in the back there is need of
! an underbodice with presentable back
| as we'll as a front Whether the jacket be
a wide belt worn with it, This belt is
| sometimes fitted velvet girdle that may
be pointed or rounded in front
| Some of them look as II they had been
were then fastened at the left side, running
| up to a point as far as the bust line.
| Wide ribbon Of embossed velvet is being
sold purposely for these belts, and is also
L. xlr Ate.
When it is wide enough it serves very well
| for jacket fronts. Sometimes it Is put on
in bolero effect along with front of
| itself.
Plaid ribbons are still worn, but they
| come In darker tints than last season. A
dark green ribbon has cross streaks of
| faint pink and blue. The bows for stock
collars have four loops and two ends, and
| are quite large.
! For Neck Wear.
Stock collars themselves are very high.
| Indeed, the longer ones neck appears to
be the better, from a fashionable point of
| view. It will not be many months before
| we shall be striving for a willowy, up-and
down effect, Instead OF that fluffy sem
| blance of breadth which has been our CHIEF
pride until recently.
| It Is not a contamination to be desired
| however, for we canont all have necks like
| the swan, as did the beautiful Josephine
| and other beauties of the serpentine order
and there is, great deal of difference be.
| tween being slenderly willowy and positive.
| ly skinny with no fashionable means OF
concealing the fact.
AS l was saying, collars are very high
| and plain ones are not admissible There
must be bit of lace quilted around the
| edge, or a Mary Queen of Scots ruche
standing out around the chin. This ruchine
is pleated white mousseline or lisse, and is
sold by the yard at sixty-five cents for the
| best.
For a ribbon stock collar. the up-to-date
girl takes piece of four-inch lace, doubles
it. and gathers it around the top edge OF
the ribbon, making 1t full width at the
back, but narrowing down to less than ar
| inch in front.
To make last years dress look Timely
to speak in newspaper parlance, rip out the
| large sleeves and cut off about four inche:
all around the puff; this may be used t.
form bolero trimming or wide belt, Of
both. Then take the sleeve in at the insid,
| seam until it fits the arm moderately well
and after you have put ruching or a fril
| of lace in the top of your collar you will b,
surprised to see how much you look lik,
the dummy models of the newest styles
that you see in the downtown store win
| dows.
81 What In Wear on One,s Had