The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-05-23

| on. each side in the rear wheel, and as
| they are often of a different size from
| those in the front wheel care should be
taken not 10 get the two sets mixed.
To remove the bracket, If the cranks
are keyed on with a cotter pin or key.
/ unscrew the nut which holds the key IN
! place on the side opposite the sprocket,
until it is nearly off, then strike 1t hght-
| ly Will a small hammer, thereby lossen-
ing IL without injuring the threads. Re-
move the nut and drive the key out.
The crank should then slip OF easily
| If it does not, take a short piece OF hard
wood, and, placing ii through the
| sprocket against the crank. close up TO
the shaft. strike the end of the bar
| sharply with the hammer and the crank
will be forced off. Then srepove the
adjusting cone on that side Of the crank
and take out the balls as in the wheels.
Clean and replace in the same man
ner, Ia king care that there is only the
merest trifie Of side play, replace the
crank, and drive in the crank key as
far as possible. Replace chain ION most
chains il makes no difference which side
is up) on the sprocket wheels, bringing
the two ends together on top of the
larger wheel; replace the bolt, making
sure 10 screw it up tight, replace the
nut and screw il on firmly, then with
the screw-dTiyer turn the bolt back
about one-quarter turn, thus locking
the nut and giving an easy working
joint. To adjust the chain loosen the
chain by turning either in or out on
both Of the adjusting screws, which
are generally placed in the inner angle
Of the frame, being careful to keep the
wheel in the center line of the machine.
The wheel is kept true by measuring
the distance from each side of the rear
fork at the rim of the wheel. Loosen
ing one adjusting screw and tightening
the other viii correct the alignment OF
the wheel without affecting the chain
materially. The chain should not be so
tight as not to admit of any lost motion
in the cranks.
To remove the steering head bearings
take off the handle-bar by ioosening
the collar which holds the handle-bar
rigid, then remove this collar and I'M
screw the OctagOn-shaped nut and then
the adjusting case, taking care to catch
the balls as they fall out. Ther turn the
machine on its side and pull out the
front fork, also catching the balls that
are in the lower part of the steering
head. Then replace the front fork, in
vert the machine, pass the shaft almost
through the socket and drop in the balls
generally about twenty on each end of
the steering head, then bring the bear
ings together and right the machine.
taking care TO hold the parts together
so as to keep the balls in place. Next
replace the balls in the upper bearing,
screw the case down until it binds, then
loosen a trifle, replace the check nut,
collar, and handle-bar.
After the machine has been put TO-
gether, oil il thoroughly in the usual
manner, two to three drops in each oil
hole.
It is well in beginning TO clean the
machine first TO remove the chain and
keep it in a bath of kerosene oil until
everything else has been done. This
will remove the grit from between the
links and cleanse il thoroughly
In conclusion, il is well TO know how
TO do all this. and no rider should be
ignorant of the construction of his
wheel; but three or four dismember-
ments in a season is enough for any
good machine, and there is no surer
way Of wasting time than in taking a
bicycle to pieces. Three hours is not an
eXtravagant estimate for most novices. |