davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-11

luton, though thoughtful and well-in-
formed people believe that the ex.Queen's
coming to America has great political
signifcance.
1t is thought to mean, at least, that she
comes as special pleader and distin-
guished leader for those who are making
an effort to gain more civil liberties in the
islands. They demand broader govern
ment than they have to-day. They do not
seek to become hostile, yet they think they
have too little to say to-day.
There were many callers on the ex-
Queen last night, among the first being
Frederick Wundenberg, formerly a mem
Der of her Cabinet and Henry Crocker,
who offered her box at the horse show
tonight, which, it is understood, she will
accept.
Colonel Macfarlane denies that he is
familiar with the ex-Queen's plans in de-
tail, yet he would not deny that her mis-
sion is partly of political character. He
even thought it highly probable that she
would call on the President-elect before
her departure from the United States.
The fact tina. her plans EN- brace visits
to men in high places in this country and
England is not denied by any who are
close to the inner circle that has at heart
the welfare of the old royalist faction.
The ex-Queen does not seem to have aged
much during the terrible misfortunes that
have befallen her and her people in the
past three years. Her voice is soft, her
conversation is easy and she does not strike
one as suffering from deep melancholy.
She dresses and demeans herself with
great modesty and her manner is dignifed
and reserved. Her old friends still address
her as Your Majesty"
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-11
She May Visit England and
Pace the Cause OF Hawaii
Before Men of Power.
G BELLIGERENT DESIRES.
The Ex. Queen of the Rainbow Islands
Sees Repor ters, but Declines to
Discuss Her Affairs.

The most distinguished passenger on
the steamer China yesterday was ex-Queen
Liliuokalani o. Hawaii. who came unan-
nounced and as modestly as Oiin of old.
though bent on mission of great import
to her people, whose cause she will advo-
cate in this country and England. She
will see President-elect Mckinley while
here, but Will not visit President Cleye-
land.
The first intimation of the coming of the
ex-Queen was received by Colonel George
Mactarlane of the Hawaiian Commercial
Company, who has been sojourning here
for some weeks. He received a message
as soon as the steamer came to meet the
ex-sovereign at the wharf at once. AS the
colonel had been cham berIain to the late
King Kalakaua, Liliuokalani's brother, he
fastened 10 meet the dethroned ruler.
The ex- Queen aud her party, consisting
of maid and companion. were hastily
is now at home to her old friends and &C.
cessible to the press.
Though freely granting an interview,
the late reigning Queen had little OF I'M
portance to say.
Courteous ard easy in manner, with evil
dences of refinement Lilioukalani is sus-
picious of newspaper men, for which rea-
son she gracefully declines to answer
questions that might divulge her plans. A
bitter experience has sharpened her wits
and taught her great caution.
II have scarcely formulated my plans
yet." said the late Qneen, land l cannot
even say whether | shall go East or to
London. Matters may arise at any mo-
ment to change any plans might make, 5"
The chief topic OF the distinguished
Hawaiian womans conversation was the
voyage and the wonders of her native
land. She speaks eloquently of Hale
maumau's awful fires, tslls of Pele's hair
and of Kilauea's laundering billows of
flame, but knows little OF politics or OF her
own plans.
No pub blic character more deity parries
the interviewer or more successfully dis
tracts attention from the subject at hand,
but in spite of her care the general pur-
pose of the visit is known.
The ex-Queen, so those closest to her
say, comes to America for the purpose of
having long and detailed interview with
Presiaent-elect Mckinley on matters per-
tanning to the Hawaiian people and the
political affairs of the island.
The natives still look upon her as their
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-11
Rebels Loot n Totcn.

PARIS, FRANCE, Dec. 10.-Advices from
Antananarivo, Madagascar, say that on
the night of November Is the rebels
looted the town of Am bohimunga, ten
miles from the capital, capturing forty
prisoners and all the cattle. The English
residents made their escape.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Il Dancing Frock

For debutante OF unusual charm is OF
q pinkish mauve mousseline de sole COM
bined with point d'esprit. 1t is made over
an under slip of taffetas, which matches
10 perfection. A deep Spanish flounce OF
white point d'esprit with pretty design
and scalloped finish hangs over the nous
seine skirt; second one directly above it,
OF less width and gathered in SO as to rise
in the back and droop in front. A round
bodice of mauve taftetas is draped with
the mousseiine and has a square decoller-
age, TO which is added pompadour yoke,
half low, of mauve mousseIine, covered
with open embroidery in white silk. Two
shades nf mauve MORE ribbon form the
ceinture, with upright twin bows and
pointed ends in the back. Mauve NOUS
seine sleeves gathered prettily TO the
arms with puffs at the top have founces
of point d'esprit wired, the fans exceed
lngly full and standing out to give that
width which is still very smart across the
shoulders. A lovely bouquet of violets
completes the charm of this pretty frock,
which will be equally becoming TO blonde.
brunette or chataigne.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

round and meeting at the waist. The
tight sleeves had epaulets Of lace and puffs
OF chiffon. A star OF diamonds held the
vouminous tuIle veil. The six elder
bridesmaids on this occasion appeared in
frocks of very white Irish poplin, made
with plain skirts. The hcdices had
sashes of cherry -colored velvet swathed
round the figure, fastened with graduated
paste buttons, and fichus of the sheerest
white mousseline de sole, edged with lace.
The younger maids appeared in empire
dresses of the same material, covered with
mousseline de sole, with hchus to match.
The long sashes OF crimson velvet were
tied in great bows in the back. All wore
becoming cavalier hats of SHRED crimson
velvet, with a long black feather falling on
the hair at the side. A bow of black MORE
ribbon gave the finishing touch.
Apropos OF gowns for bridesmaids. there
is nothing so fashionable as white OF
cream color, trimmed with fur and worn
with large velvet picture hats. Baskets
of flowers are now frequently carried in
stead of bouquets, or tall Empire canes
with bouquets at the top. All accordion
pleated materials have been and are still
in high favor Tor such dresses. Bright
lines are in vogue, if any color is INDUCED
in pink and crimson being most fashiona-
BILE, although yellow or green may be used
with most satisfactory results.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Beautiful Silks

Are always good investment. and what
do you think of soft, heavy, very rich
silk watered in new and charming way,
which has at intervals of about an inch
stripes Of white satin. with odd little
points all along the edges. This silk
comes in rarely beautiful lilac and in
gray. Fancy either of them made with q
white satin vest or bolero. In width they
are twenty-five inches, in price only 81 %
and certainly they are worth at least So 80.
For visiting toilets are some silks that l
do not see how can in any way describe
so as to do them justice, as to be appre-
ciated they must be seen. and If seen they
are sure to be either purchased or sorely
coveted. The colorings are unusual;
about them l can give you some idea-a
cafe al lait has some large pinhead dots
of black and touch of Sevres blue; an
old rose pink has similar dots'and touch
of myrtle green. and on beautiful let
tuce. green ground appear wavy lines
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Novel Fabrics.

Mousseline de sole, chiffon, crepe llsse
tuile or the new pineapple fabric enters
into the composition of IS per cent at
now being sent out by the great houses
and dressmakers. AS result. the de-
mands being so great for such fabrics, the
designers and manufacturers realized last
winter that they must create some novel;
ties. AS result of their ingenuity lovely
are the fancies in these delicious stuffs.
From far and near have sent for SAM pies
Of them that I might write only OF those
obtainable by us all. You would most OF
you appreciate a dainty chiffon embroid-
cred with medium sized raised dots done
in silk of the same shade as the founda-
ton. This you can have in delicate blue,
pink or buff, or you may have white
chiffon EN- broidcred with white rosebud,
or with pink one with green leaves, and
a lovely shade of Nile green has small
rose also. Those who prefer black may
order it adorned with lavender or pink
bud.
The silk and pineapple weaves are un-
disputably beautiful and cost but ~ 70 per
yard. They are forty-seven inches wide
and have siIvery sheen most lovely after
"candle- light" besides they have the
merit of lasting twice as long as either
mousseline, chiffon or tu!le. You may order
them run with either blue, green. pink,
buff or pinkish magent lines OF silk-as the
poet said it is I'm, site, wonderful
stuff. Then you have several mousselines
de sole to choose from. Some, for instance,
have soft blue tone. There is nearly an
inch of the plain mousseline, then mar
row stripe of silk, about an eighth OF an
inch wide, then another piece Of the plain
and half inch stri pc of the plain, then
after like interval an insertion of quar-
ter inch wide of Valenciennes lace, on
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Mosaic. Age Highly Literary.

At first the Tel.el-Amarna ia blets were
declared to be forgeries, and Renan gave
expression tc the critical skepticism on
the subject in his annual address on ORR
entail discovery. Very soon, however. the
most stout-hearted champion OF the if1it-
eracy of the ancient East was Obliged to
yield, and the 'cri,ics" were forced to ad-
mitthat on this point, at all events, they
had been in the wrong. But it was with a
bad grace that the admission was made,
for it did not require much penetration to
see that the discovery deprived them Of
what / may term their base of operations.
Just as Volts skepticism in regard to the
age and authorship OF Homer rested on
his belief i'll the late date of the use of
writing for literary purposes in Greece, so
the really strong arguments of ''the crit
les" against the Mosaic age and author
ship of the Pentateuch was that neither
Moses nor his contemporaries could read
or write. The Tel-el-Amarna tablets have
come to upset this supposed fact and to
show that the Mosaic age was highly
literary one. 1t is amusing 10 watch the
undisguised reluctance with which "the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

apparently held in place by two more
buttons. The pleats fare out in very
graceful manner. and the sleeves, IN spite
of all TIE verdicts to the contrary, are
very large and full. The collar is ex-
tremely high and equally full. Recently
in the Avenue des Acacias was noted a
coat of mastic cloth lined throughout and
trimmed with bison. The collar and
toque were OF seal. 1t was made very full
in the back, the fullness starting from a
deeply pointed plain yoke. Lined with
silk this model would make a useful gar
ment for milder climates.
One of the new theater cloaks is
a luxurious but most sensible garment,
being OF beautiful quality OF black satin
lined with an ivory tinted brocade over
which are great Marechal Mel roses with
their foliage. The draped revers are
trimmed with fresh lace and hemmed
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Preparing Bridal Trousseaux.

trousseau now in preparation con-
tains several interesting costumes The
wedding dress Is of ivory satin, made en-
princesse, the skirt perfectly plain, the
sole ornament being string of orange
blossoms knotted loosely around the
waist and falling to the feet. The bodice
is draped from the shoulder with old
point d 'alencon. The travelling dress is of
channels CLOTH the skirt made with the
numerous seams that are now so fashion
able. Each seam is outlined with a
double row of cord. The bodice has the
corded sleeves and a bolero of channels
velvet over narrow plastron OF gold en-
broidery, studded with Turkish turquoises
You would all be delighted with gray
cloth gown of that real silvery shade so
difficult to find. Tie skirt is q perfect
m odel and is absolutely plain. The bod
ice is made with small basque below the
waist, anc is completely covered with
beautiful gray silk EN- broiderv of an ex-
quusite design over white satin. The effect
is charming. at a recent wedding the
brides mother was CARRIED in a corded
pearl-gray silk. The bodice had zouave
of steel and Jet passementerie, lined with
the gray silk and having long, pointed
hanging fronts and q folded vest with bows
of black satin.
The front of the skirt was ornamented
with two vandykes OF the same passemen-
terie, most artistically applied. Over the
close-fittlng sleeves fell two capelike folds
Of the silk. Completing this toilet was
smart bonnet of black velvet sequins, with
black wings in front, black paradise
piumes and punches of violets at the
back. A December bride, whose wedding
created quite social stir, wore the richest
white duchesse satin. The skirt was en-
broidered up the front and side seams in
ribbon design, terminating at the hem
with true-lover's knots delicateiy worked
IN silver and unusually fine rhinestones.
The swathed bodice was ornamented with
lovers knot of the same EN- broidery on
pne shoulder, both ends being wound
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
The CZarina's Fancy

For French clothing has always been very
marked, and her orders have been numer.
GUS during the past year. One of the very
latest has just been completed in Paris.
It is Breitschwanz jacket, the skins
composing it being of rare beauty and per-
lection. The collar and cuffs are OF
ermine. The front of this jacket is made
with q wide pleat down the center, fin
ished with buttons, very handsome ones,
by either side near the throat. From be-
tween the shoulders in the back extend
three small bo1-pleats, two OF which are
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

either side of which are thread-like lines
of the silk. This is to be had either in
pink or blue. 1t measures in width forty
four inches and costs but 81, also in NOUS
seine de sole. l like dead white one,
sprayed in white with snowdrop. This
is much less expensive. being but 81 %
per yard-width forty-fve inches. An
other sample IS more like visible
gauze, and l believe can only be
had in blue or buff. 1t recalls
well-known Algerian production made
in Algiers for the past century, believe.
One inch is PLAIN and the next inch go.-
fered. This is also 81 25 per yard and
measures IS inches. OF the same order is
dainty pink fabric, but still it IS so very
different that you will all like descrln-
ton. First come seven little quarter OF an
inch wide crinkied silk lines, divided from
one another by threads of golden tinsel;
then comes an inch wide of tulle run with
five lines of the tinsel. This IS the most
expensive OF any / have thus far men-
toned, the price being $3.50, and the
width is but AZ inches. 1t is, however, not
so perishabie as the chiffons and mousse
lines de sole. Really chic are some other
gauzy samples. First comes narrow
line of the plain open stuff; then heav-
Ter line, down the center of which extends
bright and rlittering line of tinsel OF the
same shade as the foundation. l have
only seen this in pink and black. The
black is run with bright line OF blush
violet.
The very newest mousselines are some
that have just arrived by the last mall.
Two are black, run with color. One is
ornamented with clusters of lines. regu-
Iarly spaced between which are oval
figures in raised EN- broidery. These are
done in apricot silk in the first instance,
and in the second in a beautiful shade OF
mauve. A smoky one IS patterned In with
silky stripes, only in pink, and gray ono
embroidered in mauve has lines and the
oval figure as we'll. These measure forty
four inches. ana cost but 81 so. l regret
to say that for one not better in any way,
with only blue rose, l foolishly paid
81 So However, wisdom comes only with
experience, so can sincerely recommend
the 81 so ones as far as price goes.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
sitter qualities, costing a third more at
least.
Black Goods.

have just seen some unusually effective
loosely woven black goods, which look as
though lined with brilliant satin this
result is produced by the introduction OF
amber threads of tinse!, bright blue, cherry
or a lettuce green; these are very stylish,
measure forty-six inches and cost 81 As;
not much, all things considered. Some
woolens from Scotland are woven in
basket pattern. l like the blue and black
and the dark brown and black, and when
made with black satin by good woman
they would. either of them, be eminently
satisfactory, useful and fashionable.
Some light woolens run with frills are
being shown, and for house dress they can
be utilized satisfactorily, as almost any
shade can be had; for schoolgirls they
are simple and pretty; they cost from 81
to 81 IS, but those for 81 IS being wider
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27
Il Triple Skirt Costume

Is so excellent that l give you Vogue
correspondents description of 1t:
A walking costume as you may have
guessed, and of that soft pretty shade
called beige. The upper skirt fits the
figure without crease or wrinkle and
opens a little to the left of the center,
falling down to within twelve inches or
more from the bottom, and bound beauti-
fully in the finest of black satin. A Sec
ond skirt springs seemingly from the side
and falls seven inches below this one, and
third repeats the second, all bound alike
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

dotted with green and white lines run
with a real strawberry pink; blush
gray is treated in the same way, but IN.
stead of the pink on white line choco.
late line is introduced on cafe au lalt
ground. The quality OF the silk IS mos'
excellent, firm and soft: nothing could oe
more modisn; they would likewise make
exceptionally handsome dinner dresses.
The truth is they are absurdly cheap, be-
ing the usual width for 81 IS. How such
materials can be put on the market 81
such figure is a mystery to me. A SIM
ply gorgeous soft silk having a greenlsh
brown ground is sprayed with dellcateiy
shaded roses, and over sprayed with q
pretty white vine-like figure slightly
raised. Price 81 IS yard.
The moires are daily becoming more
wonderful in coloring. For example, an
unusually rich one is watered with deer
violet effect; another black one has
merely the watered lines outlined with
color The same idea is carried out In
crimson. Others, also black, are quantity
run here and there with broken and
irregular lines-one with bright green,
another with vivid crimson; regular
width, price 81 IS per yard. A matronly
and very handsome dress could be evolved
from an excellent silk having deep claret
ground, which changes to green Over
it is large, bold figure in black satin
Price 81 As.
The evening silks are OF exceptional ele-
gance, and many Of the latest for matrona
and young women who have been out q
year or so have either q satin ground on
which are gros-grain figures, outlined
with shade of satin one shade deeper
than the ground, or watered gros-grain
backgrounds on which are satin figures.
Blue, pink, yellow and green are the colors
always to be found. and silks quite good
enough for most affairs are to be had fol
50 yard. although some very gorgeous
ones cost SIS and SOS yard, and very fail
qualities come as low as Y5 cents.
Rather expensive are some ribbed goods
for evening wear; the ribs have watereo
effect and are thick and raised. They ars
high novelties, and only as such could
they command 50 80 for thirty-si1 inches
although forty-si1 inches wide have
only seen them in light pink and blue
Liberty satins make inexpensive frockt
for debutantes, and last much longer than
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

cut to better advantage. The quality is
excellent; all the shades are obtainable.
For many purpose are utilized soft creepy
woolens. which are but IS cents and 46
inches wide with ribbons to match. No
young girl could have prettier evening
frock. MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

with ermine. This fastens at the neck
with an elaborate ruff and cravat of pleated
net, which gives delightful finish. An
imported jacket which ranks among the
highest novelties is made OF leather OF the
softest description like suede on the sur
face with watered pattern but in the
brightest shade of chestnut brown; 1t hts
closely in the back and loosely in front
with velvet collar. and loose boa OF
sable at the neck completes it.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

in black satin. In reality the last two are
separate pieces, cut to such perfection that
they keep up this deception. The effect is
admirable, original and tres elegant.
These side pieces decrease by overlapping
toward the waist-line and become very
narrow-the same narrowness manifesting
itself on the cloth bodice which is draped
simply over the tight silk lining. opens on
the side in triple fronts, as lt.were, the
cloth edges being each bound with black
satin. There is belt of cloth, which has
black satin folds put on horizontally, and
is fastened by two large biiouterie buttons
in front. Close-titting sleeves with three
cloth jockeys or epauIets cut bias, with
much spring for fullness, are bound also
with black satin and lined with a pale
emerald-green silk, the long oval wrists
finished with two black satin folds, under
laid by two green silk ones. Emerald
green silk crush choker, trimmed with
rows OF narrow black satin pipings and a
half-ruff of point de France lace. The
gown, altogether, was ravissante.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

This gowns
silk
bias ornamented
cloth
hat trimme dWith
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

critics. have swallowed the unpalatable
fact that, after all, Moses could have
written the Israelitish law.-Contempo-
rary Review.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-12-27

This stylish tea gown princess dress Of velvet in
of inwith
sdrea
OF
eback
he boMs andbe a o sat ibbon.
The Ocala evening star. [volume] (Ocala, Fla.) 1895-1943, 1896-02-14
JACKSONVILLE TO KAN
SAS CITY.

On the Ist inst. the Kansas City
through sleeping car returned to
its "first love-" the Florida Central
and Peninsular, and it will now
come to Jacksonville by way of
Memphis, Holly Springs, Birmlng-
ham, Atlanta, Macon and Everett
over the Kansas City, Fort Scott
and Memphis, the Southern Rail
way, and the Florida Central ana
PeninSular. 1t IS the only through
sleepIng-car line between Jackson
vile aud Kansas City. Leaves
JaCksonvIl at 7 pm. daily, ano
arrives at Jacksonville at $40 a m
The through sleeper between
St. Louis and Jacksonville contin-
ues to run by the "old reliable" viz
Holly Springs, Birmingham. At
lanta, Macon and Everett. This
is known as the "Holly Springs
Route