davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02

the shoulders under a strap, stitched down
over th. seams. The skirt is box plated
on. With this is Worn a hat composed OF
straw crown and chiffon ruffle for brim.
Short stockings that leave the leg bare.
Little boys wear alpaca suits made OF
4 sailor blouse, extra long, with sailor
collar also extravagantly long, aud trous-
ers to the knee, either loose or falling as
though loose. A large hat with brim rolling
back from the face. short stockings: long
sailor trousers are Worn also, but these
are usually OF wool.
Very chic women at the races that like
a touch OF the pronounced character 10
their dress get it with p!aids and checks.
and alSOySwith combination OF tsilor
skirt and contrasting Jacket or blouse.
Generally such toilets make sacrifice of
chffous and delicate laces for simpler lines
and a maximum OF style
The sailor hat is a part of such tot
lettcs. but with an ample crown and wide
brim and bearing no relation to the funny
too-little hat that perches on the back
hair OF women across the chanuel. 1t
sets down on the head and forms a dis
Greet battery for the eyes, that may at
their ease flash out coquetry from behind
and retire again.
The following toilets are all in the taste
of the moment.
A skirt of blue and green Scotch plaid
surah shirred round the tips, with fold
e the blue velvet placed at eight inches
from the lotion. A blouse ri the same
covered with ecru, batiste, accordion
plated and forming n transparency. The
sleeves also covered. A plating of the
surah at the neck and wrists. Hat of
MANILA straw with q tand OF gold braid
laid over blue velvet and n knot with black
0uills at the side. Ecru parasol Tan
shoes.
A skirt and loose Jacket Of black and
white checked wool. with a large collar
and revers forming one piece OF white
pique. The Jacket Tails open over a black
chiffon blouse. Sailor hat with yellow
straw brim and black :arpaulin crown.
Scarlet silk parasol White shoes
A skirt Of biege colored serge trimmed
with two clusters of white braid In grad
uated widths, the upper cluster nearly
half way up. A figard Jacket of white
pique, the back fitted and the front plated
and loose, over a blouse OF white barred
with black or green. Large hat, all black.
Green parasol. Tan shoes.
A skirt of black surah entirely side plated:
ablouse of yellow chiffon with flaring collar
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02

aud cuffs Of orange satin on which White
guipure is appliqued. Belt Of orange sailn-
Black hat trimmed with black OH the out
side aud orange flowers GnGer the br;n-
A gown Of ecru hatiste over yellow,
trimmed with narrow black velvet rib
hon. The ribbon is put on the skirt IN
parallel rows. forming an irregular fret
pattern, and the same pattern is carried
out on the blouse. Flaring collar at the
ton Of the neck band lined with black.
Narrow belt of Grange. Yellow straw hat
bound with black, with yellow taffeta
ribbon and yellow 'iird orange flowers
A gown of brown foulard with large
japanese pattern. in white. over II
sleeveless Russian blouse with epaulettes
OF plain brown taffeta. all in tucss and
beltde with brown. Waite leghorn hat.
bound with black velvet, and. trimmed
with shaded green satin ribbon. Under
the brim black velvet bows fastened with
stra W buckles.
A gown of dark blue fouIard. with
sleeveless boiero OF pale blue satin, COW
cred with guipure lace and transparent
muslin. Black tulie bat bound with black
velvet and trimmed with roses.
A checked black and white skirt, trim
ned with rows OF white braid, and
white piQue Jacket. all side plated,
beited behind and loose in front, and
open over a ruffIed white muslin blouse.
Green neCktie. Sailor hat OF ecru MANILA
stra w. with Il black band laid over wider
band OF green velvet, and bow or black
quilts at the side.
A gown Of white fouIard marked with
black. A loose jacket OF black taffeta
made with yoke, all in fine tucks. end
ing in a ruffle that falls over the lower
part aud is bound with velvet. The lower
part is all in slashes, from the bottom
up to the yoke, the sIashes turned under
10 form loops. and al bound on the edges
with velvet. Bishop sleeves A large
double ruche at the neck. Sailor hat.
with ruche OF taffeta ribbon around the
crown, and u large black Quill standing
directly behind.
Ny latest letter described the prevalence
of blue, green or violet. These CoOl colors
have been tie rule for months till the eye
has become habituated to them The con-
ditions are therefore all prepared for the
advent of 4 novelty. The novelty is red
II is astonishing the effect made hy a
single touch of red. 1t draws the aJten-
ton like n jewel. II has the appearance of
a new discovery: and this is why it is
being experimental with by chic women.
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02

gown no better than this that was worn the
other day at the LongchaInps race course by
the Baroness Lconino, among others. A
white lawn figured with blue, and scarcely
trimmed with sunic ruffles at the bottom OF
a belt of fame y ribbon.
OFTEN with the smallest amount OF trim
ming, which means also a minimum of first
outlay, are produced the effects OF most
style. For example. it is the fashion to fin
ish colOred lawns, as blue or pink, with
accents of black, in IL plating OF black satin
ribbon a the top of the collar band and at
the wrists. This black where one is ac-
customed to see white is a surprise to the
eye. and therefore so piquant that all other
trimming is superfluous, and II added would
not count. 1t is the fashion also to add to
coiored gowns a small amount OF plaid
silk. THUS blue lawn has blue and green
plaid at the neck, belt and wrists, gray
ctamine has the same details in white silk
barred with black. This gives with small
outlay a great deal OF liveliness and STYLE
1t is permitted, however, to trim thin
gowns to almost any extent. The skirt
to the belt, or ruffles of valenciennes or
ribbon; 1t may have suipure bands running
up and down at intervals all round, or it
may be side plated with a fold OF velvet
sewed down the middle of each plait. Here
may be described certain gown that By
the afrdnSeinenU OF us trimming is Il quite
new creation in point of style. 1t is this
description of plain blue muslin trimmed
with notched ruches of black silk. A ruche
runs from the belt to the bottom down the
middle of the front breadth and runs round
the bottom. Over the blouse is short boleto
Of black lace somewhat pointed in front,
bordered round with the ruche.
The ruche runs up the opening of the collar
band in front, and SO carries up the line OF
the skirt and runs around the top. The long,
close shirred sleeve is made longer in
appearance by the black ruehe running
down the back the whole length from
the small top drapery TO the wrist, which
II circles This reads simple enough, but
the effect is prodigiOus. To complete
the toilette add large hat. all black,
of tulle bound with velvet, and green
parasol; or else a hat Of yellow, bound
with black velvet and trimmed with white
and black. and a white parasol. To the
bow OF the black belt add touch OF red
or else pin a red flower at one corner OF the
bolero.
Come now to the blouse. 1t runs far up
into the hair, where il rolls over in a shelf,
or else shoots outin quilts behind the ears.
Experience has not modified the rage for
these eyebrow scrapers nor has the heat
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02
which will have similar effect, though

which will have similar effect, though
not as pronounced.
To finish the wrist OF thin mater
shirred over silk, slash it open some three
inches up the back an I SCI IN a fine plated
raffle OF the silk. DO not sew this ruffle
To the edge. but make it wide enough to
set under to the depth OF the flash 1t will
then fall out OF the opening and fall slightly
lower than the outside, and have the ease
of an under sleeve. This is only one fini sh
out of many
Though great width across the Shout
ders is not now part OF the style, yet
blouse trimmings continue to show a GER
tain preoccupation with the shoulders. The
eye is carried out over the sleeve with
either a yoke collar or epaulettes sewed
into the armholes, or longer epaulette
that runs from the neck over the shoulder
seam To fall upon the sleeve. This last is
sometimes tackled and may be horde red
with lace or a Iuffle so as to be almost
as large as yoke. As variation tile
popularity OF the wide cnrselet belt has sug-
gested the application of trimming to the
lower half of the blouse. that is worn witha
narrow belt. Thus green etamine blouse
has flax-colored guipure applied to the
lower part in strips running up ana down,
with the upper en!is pointed and narrow
edge OF lace running round and Joining the
points into one outline. The close part of
the sleeve is covered with the lace and the
upper part is left. plain. The effect is
really the same rs that of a yoke aud
epaulettes, only the position OF the trim
ming reversed. An infinity OF changes
are played on the bOlero, which, taken al.
together, is perhaps the most successful
idea of the summer.
An exception to soft materials is made
for white piQue, which is very much worn.
Made up installer fashion with Jacket and
skirt il serves for yachting and othersports,
and fer the morning promenade. Also the
white pique Jacket worn with dark wool
knickerbockfrsjs the favorite bicycle dress.
Usually, buf not always, the Jacket is Of
the loose hOxD sfipe, a little longer than
the waist. A new model in pique has the
skirt laid over down one side only of the
front, In a hena with large pearl buttons
all the waydown. A short bolero of the
rlique is also dou ble-brcasted and carries
h. the line,ef otile skirt. 1t falls over a
kvide black satin belt.
! Alpaca, as IpFedicted, has not had great
success with tParieians, who have pre-
ferred on the whole TO choose for their out
ing gowns .titiier pique or serge. This
material staRted'cu the season with blast
of trumpetss bit must Low be hunted for
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02

i'll the dark corners OF the shops. The manu-:
facturers counted without their host. 1;
has a quality too poor; it is inflexible and
refuses an intimate relation with tie
figured, and the women have very gen
orally rejected il for gowns.
Nevertheless, precisely because OF lis
negative qualities 1t has its place for
trave.ing cioaks, and particularly for chill
drens dresses, where II serves with distinC-
sion. Al the French beaches little girls OF
from six to twelve are wearing garment
OF alpaca made with long blouse and
short skirt, tied around with a wide
taffeta sash. Tie blouse is gathered on
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02
MODISH FROCKS
FOR CHILDREN
Some of the French Midsummer
FancieS in Dress

Paris, July Unmarked preference is
shown for soft materials that must be
sustained on carefully cut Innings, and
part cularly for their cottoDs. Foulam
and suTah serve for more common wear
than taffeta, which is kept for times of
greatest ceremony. An old contradiction
makes it necessary to mount these other
silks and also cottOns over taffeta, and
thus base and summit or present dress
may be said To be taffeta.
Lawns and batisteS are almost n dog
day madness. They are considered elc-
giant enough for any wear. AT the same
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02

wilted them. The same is TO be said OF
the long sleeve. ana these two are the es-
pecial marks OF the style. To cxagEeratc
the height OF the neck the collar band is
made no longer Of a ribbon or a velvet
that contrasts, but il is made ike the
blouse. and the contrasting ribbon or vel
vet Is added on a ruffle al the top. The re-
suit is that where before the blouse seemed
To stop al the lower edge of the collar band,
it now runs clear up 70 the top. This
is n refinen and a subtlety in design
that may be rondered. II. however, you
will have the band to contrast you may
add on above il plating like the blouse.
The morning times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1897, 1896-08-02
Summers Gre en- and
Yellow Begin to Waiver
Toward the Red and
, Crimson of the Fall
Picture Dire sses and
Hats.

Paris, July ga man in Dahoon
would have no trouble deciding the most
popular social function of the season: for
- :, a. IN, Ut ,vould he evident
..' -; y ,,,,.s W.. s,va.n ~ his t.,esrore
49, Ear,h Erorn paris IN Lon
A., 60, ondon to BERLIN from Berlin
- :. pata-chnrg and thence home To New
NJ. vi, perin and San Francisco YOU see
.,,. b., tho Lawn marty II
on. aan,ad nsose of summer entertain
s sne NJ nere rothcrins and shaking
nthaads I'm, a reax, under the trees hooks
-. $500 "a rur,otion and all the fea-
~. -. p -, m afternoop an rho Grounds
ia, 60. ,,.;,,ht SncyoSt
VI 'A'"''.'
a FUTURE 1o"N
2 With the women la wn parties fill a long
felt want. They have just the tairest
chance In the WORTH 10 uoh 'nosc 10
picture gowns anu picture Ea'H 'h,' '"
hear so mucn OF from the cou'urefes anu
modistes.
In picture hat modlste assures you
that you have only to study your sly
Don't let the absurd size or shape Oh u Iaae
disturb you at all, nor the yividness OF the
coIoring, II 1t is becoming-it all goes.
And in your choice OF picture gown tue
same rule holds good.
The dresses worn at garden party
m American affair-given out at Neriliy,
the other day were charming. \ tall,
striking looking brunette Wore a gown OF
cream fouard, with design in bright
.~a,;os Iira s;z, Tho waist or solid
crearn roriord. had n broad vest OF scarlet
SIN and n short sop,re woke of the scarlet
s;Ir covered with lace
Tha not ,,,orn with this toilette was a
.,,,gh rad straw NAT with a great cluster
- r,on,r hlosso,ns resting ON the coil CT dark
Y popPy 80 eno,,,n &c n mass Of ,onpies
man oAAN 'AA>
s sa,, "a =, ,,,,S trrned mn at the back
and worn unite over the forehead.
dress of white canvas cloth was
trimmed with a chain stitch ofgold threads
The waist was seamless except LOT inc
under-arn seams ana covering IL was
network OF gold tiireaos-
GOWN OF GOLD.
At the front the rivers OF white satin
o,va the effect nj a short holero. The
skirt was a full godet. close-fitting at
the hips. with the design iii gold threads
reaching about three inches below the
white satin girdlie.
Around the bottom Of the skirt there
was a fold OF the canvas about four
inches wide, worked with the pattern IN
chain stitch. broken occasionally by queer
rocco points III the goiu ellDroiueiy reaeh
ing nearly 10 the knees ine .h' "as y.
white satin straw. win paret.a cioeh III
embroidered chifIon- "Iea'h VI POI
yellow roses ana vows vi "hi'' 'h"
taffeta at the DICK -,,,
young hiatioh wore -, 80,
alpaca. Down the slue oi .he iu,i go.
skirt there was oids t III 80 Of
and PINK piaia taiie.d IN Lotto,
the alpaca was 'efy iuli' W., ,;,tad 20
hreteles OF the taii1 IT, Oh" bic, rmcbs and
Nefs VI VIM ,,,,a,s ,,raen ,noussaline
roseIIes we t u ~, a' ,,.aS er almond green
ne soie- hne nc. na,,a,,;as md white
straw WIN p'nA
talie'a riopon
NEW SLEEVES.
The Coconino weekly sun., 1896-07-16
JOHN R. MEAN.

| stage to make personal explanation. "I rise
 on question of state privilege" he began, and reminded the southern members that they knew what that meant Some gentleman, he com plained. had last session. during the absence of tho delegation for consultation. stolen the state colors and joined in the Bryan parade and he wished to put the record right by hay ing it understood that we trailed not the Wis cOnSin badger behind the candidate of the ma. jority of this convention
 Kisses and few cheers followed this defiant stand and the chairman declared that he would entertain no factional questions, and intro-
 duced Gov. Stone, of Missouri.
 "The work so far done by this convention has been so well done that it will meet the en-
 thusiastic and instant approval of this nation,' he began. A very important work was yet to be done, he continued. and in order that no mistake should be made in the selection of a
 vice president he moved an adjournment until
 F o'clock to-day. This was changed to ten,
 and with great confusion on the floor roll cali was demanded and begun.
 When it became apparent the motion would carry. the thousands of spectators began to scramble .out, filling the hall with mighty roar. and the chairman grew red in the face hammering with his mallet and yelling Sit | down"' "Sit down." It became impossible to hear responses, and Col Nat Wall, a gentle. | man with a fierce mustache and long curly black hair who calls himself the original Flor. l ida cracker" and who was calling the roll in l . voice like a steam calliope, announced "Ok. 1 lahoma votes aye: District Of Columbia votes
 aye" and so on down the roll. The spectators
 were appeased by the information that theii
 tickets would be good for the morrow, and a, 9:3O the convention was adjourned
The Coconino weekly sun., 1896-07-16
WILLIAM J. BRYAN.
The Young Nebraskan Chosen by the Democrats for President.
It Was Done on the Fifth Ballot, State Dell egations Eagerly Changing Their Votes to Make the Nomination Unani.
 mous-Other Proceedings.

CHICAGO. July ll.-At 10:57 yesterday Chair man White, who had recovered the use of his voice. stepped to the front of the stage. Run ming his eye for a couple of seconds over the crowd, he glanced down at the pit and with Q blow of the gayel called the democratic na- tional convention to order. With shu1iing feet the vast audience arose and listened when Rev. Dr. Green, the chaplain, prayed for righteous ness and peace.
 Chairman White then announced that the convention was still on the call of states for nominations and Mr. Harrity, of Pennsylvania chairman of the national committee. mounted his chair and placed in nomination ex-Gov. Robert F. Pattison. This evidence tha. Penn- sylvania would stand by the platform and par ticipate in the nomination drew a cry of de- light from the silver men and Pattisons name got swinging round of applause from the gall leries
 MT. Mattingly, of the District of Columbia, seconded the nomination of that peerless champion of free silver, that firm friend of the farmer and laborer, John R. Mclean, Of Ohio. "
 Delegate Miller, of Oregon, added to the list of nominations the name of Sylvester Pen noyer, of Oregon.
 Thus the names of Bland, Bryan, Boies. Blackburn. Matthews, Mclean, Pattison and Pennoyer were before the convention.
 Balloting by states then began. It remained for New Jersey to cause the first really sensa-
The Coconino weekly sun., 1896-07-16

| length been restored upon the floor, the chair drected the secretary to call the roll Of the states for the fifth ballot. The roll call prO- ceed without incident until the state of West | Virginia was reached, when that state re- Quested to be passed. The 10 votes from Wis., consin that had been withheld from the first still declined to vote The state of Illinois
 was also passed. as the delegation from Ohio
 marched to their committee room for consulta- tion. The roll call having been completed in regular course, the secretary returned to call the names of the states which had been passed. Upon the second call the state of West Vir- ginia was still not ready to vote. Illinois,
 however, upon the second call, cast IS votes for Bryan, amid the greatest enthusiasm. The Bryan men were now confident At this time John k. Mclean. of Ohio, mounted his
 chair The confusion still being very great, he had some difficulty in securing recognition, but finally succeeded. He said: Ohio withdraws
 the name of John R. Mclean, and casts her 46
 votes for William J. Bryan" This announce ment caused great enthusiasm and was de- | cisive of the result
 After Ohios vote was announced Gov. Stone, of Missouri, read a note from Richard F. Bland, in which the latter stated that if the convention could find man more acceptable | than he, he wished his name withdrawn. Gov. Stone then withdrew Bland's name and
 pumped Missouris 34 votes into the Bryan
 column
 At the close of Gov. Stones remarks the
 convention broke into the widest excitement.
 Delegates and those in the galleries alike
 jumped on their chairs and waved umbrellas
 and flags. In one end of the hall an enthusi-
 asst waved aloft a shoe on the end of long
 stick.
 A delegate from Iowa, A. Van Wagner, then
 addressed the chair. saying he was instructed
 by the Iowa delegation to withdraw the name
 of Horace Boies and to cast Iowa's 26 votes for
 Bryan.
 Gov. Culberson. of Texas-"In view of the fact that the friends of MT. Bland have with
The Coconino weekly sun., 1896-07-16

For temporary secretary Simon F. Sheerin, of Indiana, was chosen and far sergeant-at-arms Col John ]. Mar in, of St. Louis
 National Committeeman Clayton, of Alabama, closed the debate in favor of electing Mir. Daniel. He paid a glow. inc compliment to Senator Hill. "I was here four years ago." said he, "when the anti.snappers were con- demning and denouncing him. At that time was praising him. He was my champion. learned democracy at his feet, and if he had clung to his FL mira declaration in favor of free coin age he would to-day be my candidate for president.
 The vote was then taken, with the following result: Daniel, 556; Hill, 3iQ; not voting, l.
 When Chairman Daniel was escorted 10 the chair he was greeted with mighty cheers. As soon as quiet could be restored he delivered his speech, which was lengthy effort. He said, among other things, that ''an interna- tional agreement for the restoration of the metals to an equality would be a bond of mankind which would enable us to regulate the two metals upon 8 parity
 At 444 D. m., on Senator Jones' mo- ton, the convention adjourned until to-day at ten o'clock.
 The Second Day.
 CHICAGO, July 9.-At exactly 1O:5O o'clock yesterday Senator Daniel rauped for order in the convention. Rev. Francis Edward Green, an Fpis- copal minister, C: Cedar Rapids. sa.. who has the distinction of having prayed for peace and harmony at four previous democratic conventions, was introduced and delivered the invoca- ton.
 The committee on credentials, through it's chairman, J. H. Atwood, Of Kansas, made a partial report, fa- voring seating the silver delegates from Nebraska and giving each of the
The Coconino weekly sun., 1896-07-16
SENATOR DAVID B. HILL.

ohNhiOb bNNib hii'A" territories six delegates. The com mittee asked further time on the Michigan case.
 This announcement was greeted W ith storm of cheers. T. J. Mahoney, one of the gold delegates from Ne braska, made a brief speech of protest
 The report of the committee was adopted by viva yoce vote.
 The convention then adjourned un. tll five o'clock.
 The Afternoon Session.
 CHICAGO, July n-At 5:30 o'clock Chairman Daniel called the convention to order, and announced that the com. mittee on credentials was ready to re- port.
 When the reading clerk read the re. port seating four silver delegates from Michigan, which changed the com plexion of the delegation under the unit rule, from gold to silver, there was considerable applause among the silver men on the floor. Ex-Congress man John C. Crosby. of Massachusetts, on behalf of the minority of the com mittee, took the stage and earnestly protested against the decision of the majority. Many others also spoke and the whole affair gave evil aence of intense feeling. Finally chairman Daniel put the question, nrst, on the adoption of the minority report to con firm the sitting delegates Tn their title to the seats The roll was called and the vote announced: Nays 55S; ayes, 36s; not voting, 8; absent, l.
 When order was restored the major ..'y report which changed the Mich. 'gan delegation from gold to silver was auopted without division.
 Inc report of the committee on per manent organization was called for, and Delegate Finley, of Ohio, its chair man. made his way to the stage and read the list of permanent officers se- ,ee'ed, which was headed by Senator White, of California, for chairman; inomas J. Cogan, of Ohio, for secre- tary.