davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning times., 1896-01-12

In the most approved models, tie velrst
skirts measure T1ve a nd cue-half yards round
and these have circular fronts that m
closely over the hips and hang in ccde,.
below. Generally these fall in frcnt in
! great box plcat, and with this wide sham
there are commonly only two organ gors
I at the back.
Back velvet is more seen than colonel
and the skirts are usually plain and lined
with silk 10 some dainty hue or else pzrs
white.
i HARMONIOUS DECORATIONS.
The outside decoration is confined enfir,y
20 the bodice, and If thisis in a Jacket sbape
there are sometimes chinchiIla revers thst
iirn back from u white satin front. en-
proidered With tinsel threads and paste
gems. P'-s'e
Again this front may be yelled with nlain
chiffon, or chiffon appliareti with dssiorz
I'D rich lace, this last arrangement be,ng
one OF the most elegant methods Of the
SEASON Tor the trimming of dressy hHcex
\ charming finish at the waist. for either.
is narrow belt of tinsel braid that fas,eps
Id front with jewel buckle
jet is much in favor with both bia OK and
colored velvet, and there are some yerT
beautiful yokes and long cuff pieces for
The bottoms OF the sleeves seen in it, Sple,-
and others Of filagree gold and Rhine
stones and ooiored gems, are also used;
the two last. however, only in discreet
numbers, three at the utmost each side Of
the Jacket, or pair like jeweled brooche,
at the throat.
AN ELEGANT MODEL.
The velvet gown illustrated is becoming
and manageable model to follow. IL is
Oh black with lining throughout of white
SILK, and yoke, girdle, and. cuffs Of je,.
The jet yoke finishes at the throat in A
tail band that curves slightly outward
at the top to give ease to the head and the
round bodice fastens at the left side. 1t
hangs loosely over the yoke in a somewhat
blouse effect, slight gathering. back and
'front.', jet holding it trinity to the waist
The skirt is the circular model deScrfhed.
but the Sleeves, though cut all in on sigo,.
FASHION, are entirely new in their cffetf.
The closely fitted bottoms are hcaviir
3etted Ill the elaborate pattern OF the woke.
and novel look is given the puff by drag
glng up all the fGiiness at the inside scam
almost to the arrnIIole. This gives the
sleeve the effect of the puff being separate
from the cuff portion, and lends i grace
ful slimneSs to the figure.
The chinchilla collar pictures a modish
wrap Tor such a costume, further warmth
being supplied on hitterest weather by
an uBderwaist of perforated chamois.
The lining of this is gray silk, and the
cape portion is made so full that il folds
over at the shoulders in pleats The long
stole ends, which in this case are tied with
niS rosettes of black chiffon, are nOTd
and becoming finish to the front
CHIFFON'S POPULARITY
Apropos OF black chiffon. it is said at
he shops that there is now niore de-
nand for it than ever. No matter what
he color or texture OF the gown. the
fashionable bodice is almost sure u havSs
ouch OF this silky stuff somewhere, and
'ains thereby in distinction.
Three stunning hodices for afternoon Tc.
'eption wear follow:
All shown have skirts OF the same ma
The morning times., 1896-01-12

TO my American eye. At home 1t would
have been of white leather or white
enainei. but here IL was the suoothest
shiniest white satin. spOtless and as i'm
inaculate as though it had never before
been worn. Ifancy that the little seanstress.
who is part OF every Partisan household,
sponges 1T daily with one or the self-made
preparations with which the French are SO
clever. 1t had certainly never appeared
before this o1ting in its present Immaculate
state The buckle was silver. Paris has
the silver craze worse than New York ever
had IT. In New York you mingie gold and
silver and oxidized things In rare pro
fusion, as you happen TO own handsome
pieces OF them; bat here you see only silver,
and the whitest shade OF it at that.
Little beaver hats are certainly becom-
ing to pretty young women. An elderly
woman is not at her best in them unless
she lays many flowers around their brim
and softens its hardness with yelling and
tips. But the girls wear them constantly,
tipped at almost any angle, and trimmed
with stiff little ribbon bows. But, of
course, there is a flower upon them. Who
ever saw French woman's hat without a
flower upon it, winter or summer.
Skaters upon the Seine are fond of the
toque. / saw one such beautiful one 1t
was OF sealskin, with the seal set down close
to the head, not high and stiff, but soft and
The morning times., 1896-01-12

combinations would once ha,-a hee,, cor.,.,-
cred preposterous. The truth Of the n,,t,a-
Is that both dressmakers and milliners \ re
gradually realizing that there is. after an
no guide like nature. She makes no mis-,
lakes, and the closer the dabblers in arti-
iiciai . color can come to her marvellous tricks
.ne net.er. All the sartorial tints this wear
are .er,' taken straight from natures dyepot.
loo, neae ~ are eeranium reds, petunia pinks,
nlas sns, nehotrope and amethyst pur-
h;. anu goid yellows- They are com
pined, too, In the way that na tlIre COM.
o,1es them, a way that runs oounter 70
an previous ideas upon the subiect but
,sl;a ws,.ca never falls OF a wonderfuily sat,s.
The morning times., 1896-01-12
Talk With
mIIe. caIve
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE
GREAT FRENCH DIVA.
The Prina Donna Has Had Hon.
ors Heaped Upon Her by the
Whole World.

In room whose atmosphere is heavy
with the perfume of luscious roses and
fragrant violcts. visitors to Mile CaIve
are received by charming and distin-
guished woman, Nine. d'Hardelot, the
composer and confidential friend of the
diva. Nine. d'Hardelot, who accoinpa-
MED Calve to America. and will remain
with her throughout the season, is part
English. and acts as Interpreter for the
singer, who speaks English scarcely at all.
Mile. Calve was gowned in a skirt of
black satin, with a bodice of sea rlet cre-
pom, which was vastly becoming to her
The morning times., 1896-01-12

quest to show me the few interesting
souvenirs of her brilliant career which
she has ventured 10 transport across the
ocean. Whenever she is in England she
always sings for tile queen, WHO is very
fond of her, and never fails to present
Calve with some Jewel. Among them is
a beautiful brooch OF pearls and dia-
monds in the form of the queens mon
ogram, topped by q crown studded with
rubies. Another of her majesty's gifts is
O big butterfly with diamond wings and
emerald body. Then there is the figure
OF Fame, with outspread Jeweled pinions
a large diamond in the foot, and the let
-~- u-r-c-T o-RI.A r. /. IN sapphires
The morning times., 1896-01-12

terial, but they viii serve as excellent ut,
signs for bodices in odd stuffs TO De WSl" W..
with a black silk, satin or velvet shn,. ~,
A handsome and useful coTsase, "
eishcr a Young fnatron or mala' u n
thin, black novelty crepon, with H., Tss
trimming of white renaissance lace, In IN
bodice portion is OF heavy saull, .or
a curious glitiering green veiled III ,ad o'aed
chiffon, kilt Plated. Through a,lss sn"r
opening at Tie top OF the orepon s'eJ tsow
this brilliant lining is allowed 10 NY ia
uncovered, and the narrow foideu u nsabt
also made of IL. The collar is stra,sIa. I.
band that does rot meet in mont l;1s II
Covered with the lace and finished -.
with q narrow ruffle OF white ehiioA
The morning times., 1896-01-12
CYCLING cHAPERoNAGE.
A New Occupation for Poor Gentle
wnnpnn

A New Occupation for Poor Gentle
women.
A new occupation is looming up on the
lmptc'inious woman's horizon. 1t is q
significant fact, says an English news
paper, that mothers who advertise for
governesses require knowledge, upon
the mstructress' part, OF cycling, In
order that she may accompany her young
charges when they go a. wheeling. IL seems
hKeiy thata new, ,renlunerative employment
may open up for women in the form of eye
Ling chaperorago.
In regard to the much discussed ques-
tioh OF dress, skirt long enough to reach
SIX or seven inches below the knees, this be-
ing short enough TO render pedaIing easy,
seems to find many advocates. Few people
are really decided about knickerbockers.
The other morning / saw two girl cyclists
on the platform of country sta ton. one
The morning times., 1896-01-12
EOr Thick Hnir

A very pretty arrangement for thick hair
IS done in this way: Tie the hair securely
about half way from the neck 10 the crown
OF the head. Then take strand at the ton
about e-ual to one-sourth of the hair. tie a
Knot at the end and roll it up, making q
horizontal aii-PPpff. Then twist the remainder
of the hair infd >an equine knot. and the
ceiffure is arranged. Add Jeweied comb
and the effect is very Pyetty. A more eiab-
,.a crate style can be obtaiSsd 2 by adding more
The morning times., 1896-01-12
EaShions
OF midula,,,
VELVET AND CHINCHlLL, m.
HIGH IN FEMININE FAVOR
Pale Tinted and White. s;,,
Used for Lining Heavy Vim
ter Gowns-Suggestiou.

A velvet gown for high occasion. =.
chiDchilla fur collar to keep it arm sn
shoulders, are two OF the latest e,..s ~
Of fashion. A carriage may also be a. asssl
to the combination, for the velvet ,os'.a 'a
too fine to go pied, aud it being bears !. !
carry and perisbable quantity ~ !,
it may be accepted as a fashion tb.,
small chance OF becoming loo oconuon 1a'
Some OF the velvet costufnes ~
ing paraded at theater and rerss., o.
and other places OF Occasion y r.e ~.
such a marked decrease In the s,. s
sleeves that It looks really as n ,sa
OF balloons were at last on the decl,,. -!
The morning times., 1896-01-12

There is good run wherever a pond exists.
In the Jardin des Piantes, which in sum-
mer is an admirable floral spot, there is
skating in the winter, and wherever a spot
freezes over the city cleans it. puts IL in
shape. erects little skate-aouse and pro-
claims sport for the young people.
There are other winter sports ,esides
that or skating in Paris. and other chic
winter dresses besides those for skating,
but of that you shall bear some other time
The morning times., 1896-01-12

ton of the hour. DO you ride wheel?,
10 which the beautiful woman replied,
with smile and a shrug of the shoulders:
Mon nom, madame" When she needs
rest from singing she goes to her little
farm at Aveyson, where she loves to
amuse herself with birds and dogs and
flowers. She is, by nature, very dbmes-
tic, and loves books beyond most things"
The morning times., 1896-01-12
Natures Colors

The one point in which the dressnlak kers
SHOW so marked an improvement OF late is
knowledge of color" says the New Yor.,
sun. This enables them Ia make rnuch
more daring contrasts thanin thedays of Old.
Reds and greens. blues and greens. yellows
and purples are now set side by side with
such skill as to make one forget that such
The morning times., 1896-01-12
A Black Ricynlar

The first and only female teacher of
cycling In New York is colored woman.
The management of the school that emDIoys
her thinks that onlya woman can compassai1
the difficulties of a woman ON q wheel.
The morning times., 1896-01-12

SKATERS BELTS.
The belt of this gown was o novel thing
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
DEBTS OF THE WORLD.
FIGURES WHICH SHOW THEY ARE
INCREASING.
Thirty-eight Hundred Millions of
Dollars Added to Them In Twenty
Years.

Whether it be a good or bad thing
for the nations. says the Pail Mall
Gazette, there is no room to doubt
that the debts of the world are grow
ing steadily. In 1875 it was computed
that they stood at "a. $50 0O0, 900, as
compared with a round 1920, Co., GOO
two years earlier On the bases OF fiS-
ures. MANY of which have been OBJ
tanned by US at first hand, and are
likely on that account TO be more ac-
curate than some of the wild guesses
to which certain irresponsible statis-
ticians have treated US, We ourselves
estimate that the Indebtedness of the
world today stands at 95, 100000.
AS probably everyone knows, france
has the doubtful distinction of being
the country which has the largest debt.
The latest figures put the total at
something like Ell, 200, 100000, which is
nearly double the debt $3.50, 600, OO0-of
Great Britain. which ranks as second
on the list. Russia follows with to-
tai of 9575, 900, coo, and insignificant
Italy comes forth with 5O6,OOO,O 900;
that is, if we count as separate items
the joint debt of Austria Hungary
and the individual debts of the two
portions of the nation. The joint debt
stood in 1895 at 9275, 900, while the
debt of Austria alone was 9122, 67S, 900.
and that of Hungary alone 920I, i29, O00,
or e606, 397, 600 in all. The United
States debt amounts to $3.50, 100000,
and that of Spain-exclusive of the
more recent loans in prosecution of the
war in Cuba-at f279, 600, 000 In the
following statement. we give COM
parison for 1895 and 1875 of the indebt-
edness of the nations which now owe,
or did then owe. e1O0 100000 or over:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22

the ground. trim. graceful. powerful;
the sun glittering on the darkly irri--
descent feathers of his back and lower
neck. Now you decide he is in range.
Your 3S-calibre bullet strikes his noble
breast with a muffled thump and the
giant wings wildly beat down the dry
raSweed. while your magazine is emp
tied vainly at the dark forms shooting
off toward the wooded mountain side.
He is a royal creature, this wild tur
key, and you may hope to see an old
gobbler tip the scales at 20 or Is
pounds. Slung over your shoulder by
the foot. his head bangles against
your heels. He is wild monarch, elo-
quent of the woods and mountains and
their innerInost secrets, fed only by
sae most debate wild fruits and
crystal spring water, formed for the
highest beauty and strength known TO
American bird-kind with a flesh more
delicious than his stall-fed cousin, be-
cause of the gamy flavor impaired by
the wild food. To a man who has
killed and eaten a November wild
gobbler, Thanksgiving day has
meaning which must be blank to other
mortals. CHARLES D. LANIER.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
MEN MAY LIVE 4 HUNDRED YEARS.
What Scientists Prescribe In Order
to Proiong the Duration OF Life.

What Scientists Prescribe In Order
to ProIong the Duration OF Life.
1t is possible, says the New York
Journal, for man to so regulate his
life nowadays that he can easily live
to be 100 years old. 1t depends very
largely on what is eaten after the age
of so years is reached.
The first thing to do is to avoid food
that contains limelike properties. For
swear table d'hote dinners and live
strictly according to the rules of health.
Eat fruit of all varieties. Fruit con-
tains a large amount of acid, and this
neutralizes the effect of those elements
which make old age creep fast upon
us. The next thing to avoid is bread
1t is queer that just the thing the
world eats most of is in a great de-
gree contributory to shortness of hui
man existence, but medical science de-
clares this to be a fact. So we must
cut bread off the bill of fare altogether
Not long ago a German discovered
that all you had to do in order to live
forever was TO eat Sufficiency of
lemons. There was only one objection
to the plan, but that was fatal. You
had to eat daily one lemon daily for
each seven years of your age. When,
therefore, you arrived at the second
or third century your length of life
would be of very little use to you, for
it would take all your time to eat the
prescribed quantity of lemons.
But if you must be careful as to what
you eat you must also be doubly dis
Greet about what you drink. In the
Alps and in the Pyrenees there is a
race OF people where boys become old
men at 10 and die of old age at 80. all
because they drink lime water. That
long-lived race of people, the Chinese,
drink only rain water, if they can pos
sibly obtain it.
1t might seem a simple matter to
keep lime out of the system, but when
you come to examine the matter great
difficulties present themselves. Every
article of food contains lime. All
vegetables gather it up from the earth
The COWS and the sheep get lime from
the vegetables and man gets it from
both. OF course there are some articles
of diet that are freer from lime than
others, and if these only are chosen
then something can be done about
lengthening the ordinary span of life.
Onions, the doctors say, are adj
mirable youth preservers, and next to
them comes the great food of the east
ern races-lentils. Fish is really the
best thing, next to fruit. Rice comes
a little way behind. Then follow eggs
and pork. After these comes the diff
ferent vegetables and then veal, NUT
ton, beef and fowl
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22

side, steering to the sycamore fringed
river; do not dare to go directly down
Side quickly off on a better grade
and then, having circled over a swift.
breathless half-mile, work back 10
where the trail should meet the river
meadow. Take care, Drop at f,,Ii
length, little cautious because of
the haste There they are, strutting
forth from the underground by the
stream after washing down the chest
nut breakfast with cold, clear noun
tain water. They come up the hill
toward you, and you lie like a stricken
man with your rife following eyery
movement of a great black gobbler.
father of the flock, though he
be still 500 yards away. Mota-
erly, mild hammered hens and
young gobblers are in his train
slipping dew drops from the grass.
picking at rag-weed, chasing grass
hopper. with half-open wings or ruff
fling into make-believe combats. But
never for moment are all off their
guard. One. two or three of their tall
necks are always stretched aloft, full
OF eyes and ears, in statuesuue sus-
piclon- Now the old gobbIer straight
ems up his head poised four feet from
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
when the skin Is OILY.

Sufferers from oiliness of skin must.
of course, consider what produces this
complaint, and take active measures to
cure it.
It IS caused either by weakness or
some disorder of the system, and the
diet should be carefully attended to
first of ALL Rich foods OF all kinds
must be given UP, and plain nursery
cooking, with plenty of fruit and vege-
I'd bles, taken instead.
Hot. ill-ventilated rooms must be
avoided, as well as late hours and
heavy bedclothing. Plenty of outdoor
exercise must be a daily item in our
life. A daily bath of tepid water,
douche baths and an occasional Turk
ish bath must be taken. But this last
must never be taken except under med
ical orders.
Aperient medicines should be taken
in the morning and fresh fruit eaten
while dressing. Apples or oranges are
advised at this hour If fresh fruit is
difficult TO obtain, French plums. figs
dipped in oil or prunes may be taken
instead. Salads should be eaten for
breakfast and lunch; watercress and
dandelion can be advantageously used
for this purpose. as we'll as lettuce.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22

under the lowest rail, which admitted
him.
to a blind, when the habits of a par
ticular flock have been studied closely
enough to make it worth while to sit
in ambush from daylight on and wait
for them Thirty feet in front of the
a71,buscade of artistically arranged
cedar boughs, a narrow trough in the
ground is filled to the brim with corn
and grain If all goes well, the birds
come up on the scanty trail and begin
to eat greedily altogether at the trough,
their long necks interlaced, while they
peck away for dear life. If an old four
bore nuzzle loader, stuffed uD with
about three ordinary charges of heavy
shot. is kept trained on the trough I'M
Ill this thrilling moment, there is a
good chance that pull of a trigger
will blow the heads off a large part of
the gang.
These are the ways a turkey ought
not to be hunted, or rather, butchered.
To hear of them one might take the
wild turkey to be an exceedingly fool
ish fowl, and on these particular occa-
siops he undoubtedly is; but they are
only the startling and infrequent
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
Assist Nature

a little now and then, with a gentle
cleansing laxative, thereby removing
offending matter from the stomach
and toning up and invigcrating the liv-
er and quickening its tardy action,
and you thereby remove the cause of a
multitude of distressing diseases. such
as headaches, Indigestion, biliousness,
SKIN diseases, boils. carbuncles, piles.
nseulas and maladies too numerous to
mention.
TO accomplish this purpose DR..
fIercess Pleasant Pellets are unequaled.
Their secondary effort is to keep
the bowels open and regular, not to
furtner constipate, as is the case with
other pills. Hence, their great popu-
iarlty with sufferers from habitual con-
stipatlon, piles and indigestion.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
GIBBONS AND KEANE.
Complimentary Letters Pass Be
tween Them.

Baltimore, Nov. 20-At the meeting Of
the beard of directors of the Catholic
University at Washington last month,
Cardinal Gibbons, president of the board,
was requested TO prepare a letter eX-
pressive Of the sentiments Of the mem
hers for the late rector, Bishop Keane,
This letter his eminence Immediately pre-
pared. 1t spoke of the keen regret felt
Bishop keane, of his long labor in be-
half of the university, of his dsinterest-
edness and of the general sorrow over the
REIMBURSEMENT of his duties by the
bishop. The cardinal said in conclusion:
Your noble soul has grown from your
noble undertaking. You have proven the
efficiency of the university to train young
men TO generous Self-fOrgetfulnesS for the
welfare OF others. in your sublime resig-
nation to the will of the hoy father.
You are the masterpiece of your own
training. When in future we shall have
occasion to point to an exemplar for the
imitation of young men who will reap
the fruit of your labors, we shall feel
an honest pride in setting before them
the first rector of the university, the gen
erous. highminded, much-beloved Bishop
Keane'
The reply of Bishop Keane has just
beer been received; The letter IS dated from
Your Eminence-I most gratefully re
turn thanks to your eminence and the
board of directors of the university for
the exceeding kind sentiments conveyed
70 NE by your eminence'S letter of Oc-
tober 81 l am very far from flattering
myself that deserve 1.-THE of the praise
sympathy of your own generous hearts.
While L did my best for the interests Of
the great work to which obedience has
consecrated my energies, yet 1 was al
ways conscious that my best was far
from being up TO the requirements of the
case; hence I have not fer a moment
questioned the wisdom of the holy
farther in desiring a change OF administra-
ton.
May the blessings of providence and
the loyal co-operat ton of our Catholic
people prosper the university in all of
it's future Gratefully and affectionately,
your eminence's servant in CArist.
s.IOIIN z, ~
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
This Election Bet May Prove Fatal.

Pender, Neb., Nov. 20.-Bernard Gra-
hams faithfuIness in paying an cleo
ton bet may have serious consequences
for him. Before election he agreed
with Sam Carey, a neighbor, to let the
latter kick him if Mckinley was
elected Graham was to do the kicking
if Bryan won. The bet was paid last
Saturday. When Carey planted hii'
boot at the base of Graham's spine the
latter tumbled over in a heap and had
TO be carried into the house His ply
stefan fears that even if he escapes
with his life he will be cripple.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-11-22
A Good Clain, to $50. 900. goo.

Anderson, Ind, Nov. eO.-Attorneys
for the Indiana heirs of the Lord An
chancery, have received word from At
torney Antrim of Joliet, H., who is
there making an investigation. that
he has found the American heirs claim
perfect and that he has instituted pro-
ceedings in their behalf. The estate
is worth about $50 .OO0, 600.