The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-07-28
ideas for dMo9aem.


Tho perfect uSnmer weather Of recen
days mas much enhanced the favor show
to the pretty fashion of wearing dresse
slightly open at the neck and Shoulders
8 style which is derived with modihca
tions from the mode which obtained dur
ing the eighteenth century. when bodice
were made witt a sharply pointed Y
back and front. or a very widely Gu
square revealing most of the shoulder,
and all Of the bust. q Y the Paris cor
respondent oIthe Philadelphia Press.
We uncover/ however. no more than III,
neck nowadays. and that only as an al
tentative with the thick Henri II. ruffle:
so much worn. But it is from the middle
ages that we are borrowing the small
narrow square with which a few gowns
are made, imparting 10 their general form
a suggestion of the ideal Marguerite Of
Faust" or OF Isabel OF Bavaria. with
the narrow embroidered or jeweled gallon
with which they are edged.
Nothing could be prettier. more dainty.
or more simple thai this slight decolet-
age which suggests everything and be-
trays nothing. and leaves one only to
surmise hazily about charming shoulders.
It is, Of course, understood that the neck
must be shapely and weli-poised before
anyone should venture upon the style,
which indeed, for all its sudden popu-
larity. is no new thing. Five or six years
ago it was adopted and introduced by
Ia Baronne Deslandes, whose dressmak-
ers thought her beautiful swan-like neck
worthy Of some distinction. Other wo-
men, with perhaps a shade of feminine
Jealousy. then thought and pronounced it
Just a trifie odd But to-day it all
seems perfectly right and natural, and
ill-shaped throats. or the dread of bron-
chitis. are the only reasons that anyone
recognizes against it.
$50
In the same way the present charming,
If somewhat e-xtravagant mania for en-
ploying good pearls and genuine stones
as trimming even upon sue everyday
materials as alpaca or lawn is due 10
la B4cnne D~eslandes. who introduced it
two or three seasons ago. Every woman
with any claims to smartness promptly
followed her example, and at the present
moment the ultimate note of distinction
in any dress IS a starry simmer Of
small brilliants, pearls. torquoises, or any
other unmounted stones. They may be
strewn about singly, like seeds; they may
be gathered into one brilliant mass, or
may be ranged in lines forming a kind
of insertion between the dress collar and
bodice. It is certainly far better taste
TO wear fewer, but real stones, than the
quantity CT sham gauds at one time
adopted, which made some Of the smart
est of Partisan gowns rather like what
ore would imagine the selection Of a
South Sea I~slanasr would be. Moreover.
there is a note of elegance and aristo-
cratic exclusiveness about the genuine
thing.
Muslin is being more and more worn.
White or ecru with spots about the size
Of peas, or else richly embroidered, is
specially admired. Il is, of course. made
up over silk Innings, the colcrs preferred
for his purpose being blue or pink. and a
broad and handsome sash Of black ribbon
is worn round the waist. IN the other
hand. white musl rs painted in bouquets
Of deNcately tinted acwers are made up
over white silk foundations. and the rib
bors match whatever color is predofni-
Grenadine Is bath irmer and warm
err than muslin. n Is very useful ma
teriai for dull days. while If chosen in
= -4k x IL O1EC - - - rSRt att
fer seas de wear. There are two vari-
cites Of the fabric. There is the trans
parent grenadine. OF more or less solid
NY. which involves a SAX inning either 10
or contrast: and there is the thick
g~renadine. which has. so TO speak. woven
in a silk backing to the loose woollen
weaving Of the surface. L is sometimes
quite plain. and partakes then rather of
49, = m p--oz h44& =
is equally often checked. striped OF dot
ted with spots Of silk of its own color.
specially favored colors are gray,
beige cream, natural brown and black
most Of all
Let me, however, describe a very pretty
dress worn by an exceedingly graceful
young married woman. It was IF coarse.
plain ~grenadine in pale grass green. and
made up over taffeta Of a still lighter
shade just shot with rose pink. AT the
foot of the skirt was an insertion Of black
covered with steel paillettes. The
bodice was a Bolero jacket over a vest
of s.Ivery danask strewn with r~osebuds,
and fastened with large steel buttons.
The sash was formed Of a broad scarf Of
black ~grenadine embroidered at the ends
n steel. A black hat. with green ribbons
and black ospreys ard a mass of roses for
trimmings, was the natural corollary of
such a dress. Some dresses of plain black
grenadine have no further trimming than
a jeweled belt, the motive of which is re-
peated in a gallon edgfng, the square
opening at the throat. These gallons, in
gold tissue ribbons. when studded with
small brilliants, turquoises, pearls, topaz,
sarnets, noonstones or aGuamarines, are
undoubtedly the most attractive. But, like
their corresponding belts q la Russo, they
are not every ones wear. Less costly ones
are to be had in gold tissue with silver
or even steel stars, and others again,
which are decidedly heavier, have fish
Ike scales sewn on to a deep velvet corse-
let belt. which outlines very b~econingly
a slender waist.
These belts harmonic equally effective
iy with the taffetas In blue. pink and grey
sunrise blendings, which are a survival
of the styles Of earlier spring, and are
still in great demand for garden party
wear. A charming Louis XVI. glace silk
with mauv and sky bite had gold
paiilettes sewn closely together so as 70
fcrm lines Of scales upon a foundation
OF rich blue velvet. This was deep enough
70 form a c~orselet. beneath the full blouse
bodice Of mauve ganze. Darts Of blue vel
vet covered in like manner with the gold