The San Francisco call., 1896-09-27

lops A charming finish. The yellow silk de-
eollete bodice was draped with yellow mousse
line with inlett1ng of white satin ribbons,
quite narrow Ones embroidered vertically in
diamonds and emeralds, ending in a waved
decolletage. Straps, which were jeweled to
match. held the wings of plisse yellow mousse
line across the shoulders and left the line of
arm unbroken. Some of the tuIle dancing
trocks worn by the youthful contingent are
trimmed to the knee with tuile hounces plisse
or tulle ruches graduated in width. The silk
transparencles have a plain tulle skirt over
them and these trimmings added afterward.
They are the sweetest, freshest, most girlish of
froeks, with their round bodiees and empire
belts, long sashes and winged, tulle sleeves
that ever were seen.
One now hears daily questions concern
ing what styles of jackets are to be worn
during the winter. 1 quote the reply OF
European authority: ''The coats are
long and the coats are short; they are
tight fitting and they are loose fitting,
Several OF the latest created models hang
loosely from the shoulders and are OF very
limited dimensions, reaching but to the
hips. These are sometimes cut to set in
pleats, sometimes to hang, but straightly,
and at Dieppe some lovely ones have just
been noted composed of shot silks with
huge ruf1es round the neck. However,
these dainty confections will vanish at
the first breath of winter.
The modish maiden will certainly in
clude In her purchases about the first Of
November smart cape, which will prob
ably be of some beautiful fur or rich
velvet exqulsitely embroidered. The de-
signs now being shown for coaching and
carriage cloaks will probably undergo
change, but the choicest jackets and the
most chic of capes will not be seen here
until about the middle of next month.
However, Redfern has just completed
jacket which may truly be described as an
altogether unique conception. Built of
soft, smoke-gray cloth its quaker sobriety
is deliciously relieved by tabs of miroir
velvet IN gray-green, peapod hue, sur
mounted by geometrical design in fine
mixed cord. These tabs are everywhere
bound by narrow hem of sable, and the
same beautiful fur forms the Tudoresque
collar. The coat, while extremely elegant,
is thoroughly practical, a desideratum
in these days of outdoor exercise, and a
final cachet is given to it by the charming
old silver buttons with which it is adorned.
The illustration will give you an idea of
AOo ShoInos AAC Ic1su VI Glo JuTueu-OOWu
collar is said to be over for jackets, but
speaking of coaching and carriage coats
reminds me that a short carriage cloak
made of a handsome brown and white
checked tweed, crossed by a larger check
in blue, having a lining of sapphire blue
silk and a collar of the same tone, is a
sensible and stylish garment, as Is also
one which reaches the knees, composed of
tweed. 1t has a shadowy check on
dust-colored ground, 3 lining of amber
silk and a storm-collar lined with tan
leather strapped with tweed. Five odd
leather buttons fasten it down the 'front.'
The leathern buttons and collar of the
same produce a novel effect and have Just
been introduced. They are of an immense
depth and when turned up completely
cover the ears.
cloaks and mantles are pelerines and
mantles covered with founces, ruches and
bows, covering the bust and filling up the
neck. The latest fad is collet of rather
dark -colored chamois, lined with white doe
skin, which appears at the edge and shows
through the cuttings and is richly en-
broidered with gold thread. Some of these
are very much abbreviated, but others are
made Ike long pelerines, and these afford
real protection from the chilly evening
air and are much liked, being very be-
coming. MARCELLA.
The volcanoes of Vesuvius and Etna are
never both active at the same time.