The Columbian. [volume] (Bloomsburg, Pa.) 1866-1910, 1896-07-30


knickers. They are immensely smart
and, with the laced canvas boot, form
much cooler footgear than the heavy
leggings.
Bicycling is to be more the fashion
than ever at the watering places, anC
at least two bicycle costumes mus
needs be provided for summer wear
one of serge, cheviot, or covert clotf
for cool days, and one Of linen, Rus
sian crash, or the wiry material tha
looks like hair cloth, or perhaps white
duck, for the hot weather. The skirts
must not be too wide, for unnecessary
fullness Is not only annoying, as II
blows back into the wheel IL there Is
the slightest wind, but also is very
ugly and ungraceful. The fullness
must be quite at the back, and ovei
the hips the skirt must fit closely. The
fare must be around the bottom of the
skirt only, and in the wash materials
this is gained not only by the cut, bu'
also by turning up deep hem on the
outside, and stitching 1t through with
several rows of machine stitching. ThC
short Jackets either with loose fronts
or tight fitting like waists, opening al
the neck with narrow revers, are the
prettiest patterns, after all. But the
Eton Jacket is the most useful, on ac'
count of being so light and small that
it can be carried on the handle-bar If II
is not desired to wear It. When the
EtCn Jacket is used the back must be
cut long enough to almost hide the
belt OF the skirt, and must be fitted in
at the side seams so that it has neat
trim look
The fashionable girl these days lets
her purse swing from a chain whict
she wears about her neck. The chair
must be very fine and the purse of sill
yer or gold mesh, with a gate top
This idea is more for novelty than con
yenisnce, for a purse dangling from
ones waist is apt to be trfle annoy.
ing. But it is the fashion, and so the
girls are doing It, A few of the fail
maids tuck part of the purse within
the belt, as If IL were a watch.
There are many beautiful tlnts Of
green among the summer dress fabrics
and pink is charmingly combined wit.
these dyes. 1t is a question yet to be
solved how these delicate dyes will re.
sist the onslaught of the American
laundress, but there is no doubt that
the shades are all particularly restfu
to the eye in midsummer, and as
charming as they are restful.
Very many of the new washable
gowns are made full all round-a style
known at the dressmaker's as "the
housemaids' skirt" Sometimes there
is very deep hem, again two, three
or five narrow frills, one tapping the
other. These frills are set on with @
fine cord and serve a double purpose
they keep the dress from falling in
about the feet and certainly tend to
embellish It. With such a gown, moth
ing looks better in the way Of shoulder
covering than a muslin cape with
frilled edges. Summer dress skirts. II
made of light material, are frequently
tucked from the hem to several inches
above the knees, and on a few gowns
there is narrow knife-plaited frill OF
the dress material below the hem
Skirts thus tucked are ungored, and
prove far easier to hang and adjust
than the gored skirt with its frequent
tendency to sag at the sides after the
skirt is completed and worn a few
times.
The stores are full Of convenient con-
trivances in the way Of purses and bags
for women shoppers and women who
ride bicycle. No woman will be full
ly equipped without one of these USE
full and pretty things. They are made
OF leather, chosen for its durability
rather than beauty, although many OF
them are very handsome. A double
pocket, made with strap long enough
to slip through the belt and having
one bag higher than the other, Is a
most convenient one. One Is used as q
change purse, another for handker-
chief, cards, keys and other small nec-
essities, and so on. Morocco, calfskin,
alligator, and monkey skins are fash
ionable just at present, the latter skin
being very much the rage for bags and
is very handsome. A monkey skin
bag, silver mounted. with a watch in
one end, will cost $S or $40. Others
may be bought for prices which vary
from $3.50 to IS.
Costumes of pure white, from the
plain taffeta silk or crepon parasol to
the tip of the shoes, will be one of the
dress and they will be worn morning,
noon and night in all the varying
grades Of elegance or simplicity.
A new China crepe" has made its
appearance for smart dresses. It is
something like the lovely crepe de
Chine which is so costly, and which
rarely runs to whole dress. This new
China Grape is a French product, and
is rougher of texture than It's delicious
namesake. 1t is uneven of surface,
something like crepon, but 1t retains
the sickness and beautiful softness of
crepe de Chine, though heavier and
thicker, and it is as amenable to beau
ty of color.
The old linen busters" masculine
and feminine, of hideous memory have
sprung to life again, serving a real
convenience under the name of dust
cloaks. These are made most appro-
priately perhaps of the ever present
grass-linen-oYer-silk combination. But
expensive substitutes are Chine silks
and shot silks. They are made usually
with long, wide skirts and very flowing
sleeves TO avoid injury under the pre-
tense OF protection to the gowns be-
meath. They have ribbon ties at the
waist and some have cute hoods. Bic