The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1896-04-18
EVERY PORTION HISTORIC
GHOSTS or GREAT MEN SEEM TO
HOVER ABOUT CAMPAGNI.


A Traveller Describes His Feelings as He
Moves About the Historic Plaoes-He
Gives Advice to Those Who Make Their
First Visit to Europe-M Magnificent Aque-
duets.
Dresden March 20, 1896,
To tho Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER
Some men are born under an unlucky
star, while others seem to be fortunate
in all their undertakings, ike Midas Of
old. whatever they touch turns to gold,
bu. that old king was at last very I'M
lucky, for even his bread aud butter
changed to yellow gold and he thus
we'll nigh persisted Of sheer starvation.
So it is too with travellers. Some
glide gently along with IL silver spoon
in their mouth aGG are always sure to
find the railway trains on time, ana
meet with no misfortune or disappoirt-
n,ent zen voyage" they are invariably
we'll suited, the hotels at which they
put up, cold beds and indife erent meals,
daunt not heir courage; if they are
obliged to learn many things In many
countries through startling and unfor
seen channels, why they feel it is all a
part and parcel of foreign travel and
thus they remain perfectly content
with their lot. A few fleas in Italy do
not intimidate them, the great bil!oWy
feather beds of Germany are not a
terror to frighten such contented trav-
elers.
The everlasting Southdown mutton
of southern England, which verify
seems to endure not unlike the oil of
the widow of Shunem, does not weary
your interested and tireless traveller
If in an Austrian or German village
one can find no "feisch" on the table
of the pretty little inns, but veal and
pork, and finds the same in every town
in those two German speaking coun-
tries, he must either" take it or leave
it," and I should decidedly advise him
to take it and make the best of it.
If mosquitoes buzz about your ears
in Venice, and if fleas devour you at
Rome, let them bite away if it affords
y
calm, unruffied, undisturbed.
I have met travellers on their way to
the consul to obtain redress for mag
mary injuries, and these same unfor-
tunates are always in a peek of trou-
ble,' they inveigh against the rain, the
cold, the heat of summer; If the rail-
way trains run slowly they are greatly
concerned,if they travel too rapidly
then they are dissatisfied; to grumble
is their normal state; nothing can
please them and thus travelling be-
comes a bore, and advantages which
should accrue from tour through Flu
rope come to no good result in the ex-
perience of such discontinued tourists.
I think I will some tim if that far
off time ever comes to me, write vol
ume about my experiences of traver'
through Europe and the east, and
think some of my recitals might aston
ish those of my readers who have new
er been abroad.
Now my advice to those who go from
home on their first visit to Europe is,
eff it rains let it rain" grumbling will
not remedy it; let it blow high or blow
low, take things easy, keep your
t'pOh&
find your proper bearings, then all will
be right.
I shall not soon forget one bright
morning in Rome; the SUN peeped
through the curtains as he rose above
the charming Villa Malta and awoke
me with his fierce rays.
The butler had forgotten to awaken
me, as had ordered him to do the pre-
vious evening, and when the sun actu-
ally drove me from my bed, found
was actually one-half hour behind
time. ! was greatly annoyed at this,
for had arranged to take a run out to
Ciampino on the Campagna; the cars
would start at nine o'clock and as
was half an hour late feared l should
miss the desired train. / hustled
quickly about and ordered my break
fast, which was late in coming up; af-
forwards / started, stick in hand, for
the elevator; this was damned or rath-
err it's cumbersome gear was, so down
five long flights of stone steps 1 de-
scended and found myself in the Via
Sistina; now there are always plenty
of 'facres'' in front Of the church est.
Trinita de Monte" where the yelled
nuns SlIlS So SWeelly every uety, SlltluS
behind the carved screens.
Upon this particular morning not a
single "fiacre" could be seen, and as
late as $3.50 tool Nothing daunted, I
waited not but turned and walked rap
idly down the Via Sistina as far as the
Piazza Barberini and turned to the left
up Via de Tolentino, and so through
Via Venti Settembre, by the Hotel
Royal and across by the Baths Of Do
cletian. The streets were filled with
countless stone masons' carts, and
fruit carts and all sorts of carts; there
were so many of these that I was
obliged to dodge beneath them, around
them and narrowly missed being
crushed beneath their weight.
I heard the shrill shrek of the en-
CINE whistle and started on a quick
run across the pretty Piazza Cirque
Cento," upon one side of which the
railroad station is built; as 1 passed
the obelisk in the center wretched
fellow clad in yellow and blue, wearing
a very long feather in a very large
sombrero was beating his iaded mule,
which was galloping rapidly along on
its way from Tivoli with it's morning
load of wine; as 1 was escaping from
Scyila in the shape of wagon load of
stone I fell prey to Charybdis, for
the Tivoli Jehu drove his wine cart so
reclzlessly that the tip end of the axle
erazed my leg and sent me flying fiat