Evening star., 1896-04-11

way a novel and in
expensive opportunity is presented to study
the people and their characteristics, as
well as the sights that every tourist, be-
fore and after them, has seen or will see.
1t was with some misgivings that two
Washington cyclists started from home
last spring to do foreign lands, with
modest amount OF baggage, consisting
merely Of the most necessary garments,
compactly tucked away in a small bag,
which was fastened on each wheel. One
thing only was certain, and that was we
would not be handicapped by any super
fuous weight for the wheels were light,
our hearts lighter, and our cash account
lghtest Of all, necessitating strict ad-
herence to the Bohemian program mapped
out.
John-my better half-had been oyer be-
fore, in his bachelor days, and therefore
had some idea of how inexpensively a man
could see the sights and live comfortably.
But taking a wife along brought an un-
known quantity into the equation that
caused some apprehension.
Remember, no trunk! No dressing! No
shopping! No high living!' he warned
again and again before the start was made,
some lingering doubts of his bicycle chum
still troubling him, knowing she was only
a woman, and liable to the failings that
are always credited to the entire sex, no
| matter how justly or unjustly.
One bright morning last spring, as the
tender steamed up to the Southwark, ly-
ing in the Mersey river, off Liverpool. we
as few belongings, that were ready
packed in the small bags and fastened to
the wheels. The bicycles had not been
Grated for the ocean journey. but had been
diVested of handle bars and pedals, and
made the voyage in the hold in safety, and
were now ready, like ourselves, for the
cycling jaunt, three thousand miles from
home.
We lost no time in the custom house, the
| queens stamp of approval, in the shape of
a small slip of paper bearing the royal
crown. being at once smilingiy affixed by
the officer, after one glimpse into our bags,
| and hearing We had mo boxes" By 4
O'Clock in the afternoon We had thoroughly
seen the sights of Liverpool-St. Georges
Hall, Lime Street Station and the Art Gal
lery and other public buildings, and with
out delay took the penny steamer for Bir-
kenhead across the river. and made our
first run of sixteen miles in good time,
without any effort, notwithstanding our
twelve days without exercise on the voy-
age over, reaching the quaint old town of
Chester in the best of spirits, and quite
ready for our dinner at the inn.
Interest In American Wheels.
Quite unintentionally we ranked as one
Of the Sights Our wheels, with their
wooden rims and guards, were something
entirely new in England, and in Chester, as
in Liverpool, we were the center of an ad-
miring throng as often as we dismounted
A tiny 'old glory pinned on my cap and
a bunch of the national colors waving from
the handlebarS gave rise to the astute re-
mark, Them is Hamericans!' uttered in a
very audible aside, which reached our ears
frequently as we bowled leisurely along the
English highways.
We read in every article on foreign cycling
of the universal use of boomers abroad In
our journey from north to south in England
although number Of feminine cyclists
were encountered, not single blcomer girl
was seen. In London more women ride
than in all the rest of the country put to-
gether, and are met in the parks in smart
costumes of all kinds and descriptions; but
the balance of the women riders, it must he
confessed, seem to don the most absurdly
long and full skirts for wear on the wheel
and look very awkward and ungainly in
consequence. The English wheels, uniyer-
sally met with, are old style and heavy and
with saddles low. The riders seemed to be
all knees, and no one but a stury young
Briton would find pleasure in propelIing
forty odd pounds of iron and steel around
the country.
No praise is too strong to do justice to the
uniformly perfect English roads, which are
nade of hard bluestone, crushed and roll
ed, and are similar to our macadamized
reads, and are kept in magnificent condi-
ticn. No ruts, no hills and hollows, no mud
holes or loose stones to give a header to the
unWary, but mile after mile Of smooth high
blossoming hawthorne hedge, and the tall
old elms and chestnut trees about the quaint
old-fashioned manor houses and peeping
over the high walls all reminding us that
we are IN old England, the haven Of cyclists.
Even Good Bye Ronds.
The way leads through tiny hamlets and
small villages and under the green canopv
of rustling boughs in shady lanes, as we'll
as through the larger cities busy streets
and over the well-traveled highways You
cannot go astray, for all the roads are good
and even in a cut across-country to visit
the ruins of Kenilworth Castle, on a road
but little used, we were surprised to find it,
although out of the way, in as good condt-
tion as our best American roads.
Another delightful feature of English
cycling is the inn. They are found at fire.
quent intervals. There the weary wheelman
may rest and refresh himself at one-half
the price asked at home for like accommo-
dation. The English taverns are the rem
nants of the good old coaching days, as
their enormous stables, now silent and ten
antless, mutely prove; but in these vast old
rambling hostelries the good-natured buxom
landlady and the rosy-cheeked barmaid still
remain. The latter will draw for you in
bright pewter mug, English ale, and serve
you good substantial meal on the old oak
table, black with age, in the CHEEKY coffee
room"
ouS lHlNS tIidI greatly lmDreSSeS the
American in England is the modesty and
humbleness of the middle and lower
classes. 1t was amusing to me- in my
travel-stained GARLAND pleasant, too, I
confess-to have our hostess declare her
best room "a great, roomy chamber, con-
tanning a huge four-poster bed and furni-
ture that would have delighted q collector
of antiques) mot good enough for real
lady. like you be!' At the easement win
dows futtered fresh chintz curtains, and
outside on the broad sills blossomed num-
Der of fragrant flowers. Every cottage, no
matter how small, has it's array of flower
pots or boxes of bloom, and the luxuriance
of growth must be owing to the moist air,
for they seemed to need no particular care
to make them blossom like the rose"
AS far as our experience goes, the En-
glish innkeeper is an honest fellow and his
wife a pleasant body" as they would say
The rooms were always clean and sweet
and while the cooking was not as highly
seasoned as we like it at home still it was
good, and the accommodation all that could
be desired, and for the very modest outlay
of from two to three shillings a night for
two.
Women Riders in Europe.
There Is no reason why 1t would not be
perfectly admissible for party Of Ameri-
can ladies to take run through England
alone. No ore need fear any disrespect be-