The herald., 1896-10-11
THIN WOMEN'S WOES
TI0HT yL@UvNS AND TIGHTER
SKIRTS COMING IN.
PRINCESS GOWNS REVIVED.
ma r.shfoned F1ounces Running
Half Way Up the Skirt Are Also
Among the Autumn Fashions.

NEW YORK, Oct. 2.-There Is no doubt
nauut IL: the elender woman will be at 9
6sa6yantage this winter. The godet skirts
md huge sleeves are surely among the rap
idYy departing styles. and fashion tnreatens
10 no to the other extreme and return to
dose, clinging skirts. ~
The new GOWNS are reduced to almost one
Aslf Of the fullness that formerly prevailed
and they At so closely about the hips that
they will be exceedingly trying to very
slight figures. The tight sleeves are equal
ly trying and many women are moaning
over the host fullness that has been 50 pc
coming to their extreme slenderness. Tne
sleeves in this transition period are very
in1portant part Of the dress, and although
thew are clineing from wrist to shoulder
their shape is wonderfully relieved by the
many devices employed to ornament the
ton such as puffs, frtlls. epaulets. points
and other trimming to match the bottom OF
the skirt. :,
While the sleeves were SO large all
women and all gowns looked much alike
hut now more individuality Of form and
.nnre taste and skill will be shown in new
effects in the combinations Of the silks and
woollens which will be used in the demi-
season toilets.
The skirts and bodices will be very much
4 trimmed with a new coarse lace, Bulgarian,
Croatian and other embroideries, in ivory
or q pale cream tone. The embroidery Is
protected and relieved by an edge of col.
ored braid. gold cord. or narrow black
velvet.
Yokes of velvet covered with lace will be
found on many Of the fall gowns. Narrow
Valenciennes lace will be just as popular as
It has been all summer. Buttons will take
q prominent part In the trimming Of the fall
gowns. Some Of the skirts will have the
front breadth outlined with buttons on
both sides corresponding with the two rows
on the double-breasted waist The new
buttons are very artistic. especially those
modelled from the antique.
The old bodices that are an absolute ne
cessity for young and old are prettier than
,yer. One most tastefully made is Of black
chiffon over a black or colored silk lining,
and has a chemisette and vest of white
net. It has black sequin trimming and un-
lined shirred sleeves Of black chiffon with
plated trflls. Deeper frills are used for the
bertha and epeulets and for the basque and
4 graduated frill serves for the front OF the
bodice. The collar and belt take the tone
Of the lining Of the bodice.
Old fashioned founces are coming back
eyen fiounces half way up the skirt; and
thew supply a very graceful way to renovate
4 black silk by flouncing 1t with silk mus
lin. covering the waist and shirring the
muslin over the close black sleeves, using
.d9Gp QOunCeS OIL Iue IiuS1iu AoT uerLQa ana
epaulets.
The princess gown bids fair to be ex-
oeedingly fashionable this fall and winter
for outdoor. house and evening wear. Some
of these gowns button down each side of
the front breadth or are fastened under a
belt across the front; but as rule they are
fastened under the left arm and on the
shoulder. Lace or braided boleros will be
worn extensively on the gowns fastened in
this way.
A pretty princess gown for young lady
n Of pale blue, and the effective tabs about
the belt and yoke are Of black velvet,
fastened with silver buttons The yoke is
Of guipure lace over blue. and the tight
shirred sleeves, with very moderate puffs.
are surmounted by particularly pretty epau-
lettes. which are quite the feature of the
GOWN.
; The sleeves are trimmed to match the foot
Of the gown with narrow black velvet
The hat is Of black chip, with fall Of vel
lowish lace on the brim. and is trimmed
with pink roses and black bird Of para
disc plume.
Another princess gown is Of dark gray
cloth relieved by insertions OF white CLOTH
The gown and sleeves are slashed TO show
the white cloth. and there are innumerable
loops and buttons of black braid.