The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-03-15

POl<es and Toaues for EaSter-The
shoulder straps OF Ball Dresses,
the New sleeve and the Salvation
list Bonnets.
New York. March 1.-THE weeds fra
fashions garden bourgeon and bloom
without tending. and the fairest flowers
need most constant care. quite as in ruder
fields.
There was last fail a peculiar box coat
OF English invention so curiously ugly
that il could not fail TO live. as il has
done and thrive. 1t was of the shape
Of a soap box. perfectly square down the
sides and across the bottom. which was
then cut well down by the hips The
soap box coat has begun to adOrn itself,
10 shine ike a parvenu in her diamonds.
1t has grown shorter until now ii barely
clears the waist. II was at first designed
in strong cloths for driving and coach
ing merely. but now it iaunts sleeves
of mOire and epaulets with broidered edges
and a machicolated collar and wide pleats
down the front alternating with perpen-
dicular strips of MORE or novelty vel
vet, or figured lace over satin. or such
gay stuffs, and next il Will take TO it,
self. no doubt, the colors from which it
has thus far refrained, and We may see
it in yellow cloth, with black stripes. or
pink with salmon. or red. with black, or
green. with red.
And the driving coat OF late '95 is thus
become the new spring jacket Of early
's6. with mayhap a career before IT, bless
ed by folly!
This is worth noting by way Of conso-
lation, that it is indeed an ugly gown
or wrap which a pretty woman may not
wear, to the confounding Of seasons.
The Easter tide will have need Of pretty
ball and dinner dresses again and they
are now being fashioned. The shoulder
strap is the badge of all their tribe. Three
out of four of the new evening gowns
have it. generally in dark decision ana
emphasis of color. and at least third
have the new sleeves. whose scant out
lines are for the moment masked by
fuzzy epaulets. One evening bodice or un-
usually theatrical fierceness has a wide
restrained in the very act or siding on
the shoulders by adequate looking strips
OF black velvet. And more of the velvet
is crossed upon the front Of the bodice
ending in huge bow at either side OF
the waist.
A charming frock Of white satin with
round sleeves i'm. the older mode has
short bodice whose loose front Is covered
with sequined net. and whose square
decolletage is outlined with embroidery;
There is a satin band at the waist and
others at the shoulders negative the sug-
gestion that the gown might else slide
off the polished arms of the wearer
Half the gowns have this slipping-off
effect. Hence the shoulder straps, meant
10 reassure the eye-or cheat, accord
ing to the beholder. Let me describe
another gown with no such device;
1t Is made of mauVe glace silk with
bodice of chiffon in the same shade, and
the yoke and the braces and the long
lapels are strongly brought out in black
with big figured cream lace applique
upon il.
Easter week that is not yet There is the
bonnet TO consider.
Modified forms of the poke bonnet are
quite in line with the springs promises
not the long poke through which, down
a tunnel one peered in grandmother S
days at the face beyond, but a shallower
and airier poke with an upward and out
ward spreading front varying from that
of Salvation Army KEPT to the crimDled
outer edge of seashel. Whatever trim
ming of plume and ribbon there be is piled
far back upon the tiny crown, the under
side of the brim is smothered in the lace,
white or black, and the whole contri-
nothing dim or tunnel-like about the poke
of 1896. And the Salvation shape is pretty
enough, give it but the bright colors. En-
terprising modistes are already referring
10 certain of these new shapes the
Booth or the Darlington" names some
what in favor even in fashionable New
York.
But there are others The spring bonnet
is not confined to the shell shapes. There
Is TO be a good cOuntendnculS demand Tor
the picture nat IN moderate sizes, ana
for the bewitching tCque mo bigger than
an agate stone upon the foretinger of an
alderman.
Spring will bring the straw braids, of
course, many of them the rough fancy
straws with which we have in former
seasons been familiar. but in new loops.
fringes, points, patterns and caracoles.
There are plain straws, irridescent colors
and Persian arabesques in weaving. Some
braidmakers have even gone so far as
m Ua tartanE
strong prime colors. These self-assert-
ing patterns in the braid require emphatic
colors in the trimming such as are fur
nished by scores and bands of duchesse
purple, or navy blue which is now known
as matelot blue as if the French word
made IL any finer.
There is compensation in all the uni
verse, hence it is no surprise to lind that
the little hats have bigger crowns than
the big hats; the walking shapes in felt
have narrow brims curling high in the
sides and low at the ends in shape
Somewhat suggestive of the turban, though
the rolled sides do not hug the crown
quite as close as in that model.
Quilted net Will figure prominently in
the list of trimmings, along with chiffon
similarly treated, Malines tulle in white
black and colors. Flowers will be pro-
fuse, and there is great influx of fancy
ribbons from Paris. where they viii
There are ribbons with sombre effects
and ribbons with Dresden roses and Chi.
ma designs, crepon prints, printed vel
silk muslins, plain and bordered. High
novelties are the ribbons in Persian
groundings and Damascus embroidery
Vermicelh figures, velvet FORMATIONS
ombre strips or metal threads; ombr,
grounding with wild variety of stripes
taffeta in narrow glace stripes; glace witt
printed borders or metal patterns, or tat
feta edges; broche figures. Bayadere rib
bons with stripes in the warp damasl
ribbons, plaided ribbons. Palmer ribbon,
in delicate tints will no doubt prove il
better taste, especially for hats or bon
nets with long ribbon ties.
The short basque skirts still survive
according to the universal law limited a
in the beginning of this rambling account
and there will be with the first warn
weather a sudden revival of the rattle
long skirted coat, forming part of a tailo
made costume, opening low and wide t
display a lawn or piQue shirt front TIL
tailor mode will not down. Its blesse
convenience goes far to forgive its col
and somewhat unfeminne outlines. Late
win come the blouse, beloved for the sam
convenience.
Walking gowns will be this spring some