The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-29
sUBJUeArEp a1rErr.
The Leading Feature or Gentleu,en's Attire
for the Coming winter.

tor In gaining for the Scotch goods tho preoe.
dence that otherwise might not have been at
tained. SubjuGated gayety, as n result, will
most APPLY designate the colorful. tendency
that imbueJ and accehtuatcs the fabrics for
gentlemen in the autumn and winter OF 1896.
Certain is IL, however-and surely welcome
wtthel-that there Is an overweeninE radiance
about the comminglod color jottinEs OF tie
scots" that even tho black background and
sombre dominant colors in innovation shades
of brown, gray, and green cannot completely
ouell. The Scotch goods are in n series of
stripe effects In plaids-rormed by 1s.inch stripes
crossing at w inches interspace. The back
grounds, while sombre In tone, arc punctured
AZ intervals, more or less, apart, by miniature
inIuse the requisite enlivenment.
There are perhaps fifty differing designs
generally in unbelievable, plaids from which
-FOUR In markedly diversified patternings have
been selected for description. The first is a
havana brown background, upon the surface
whereof is an Understanding OF buttercupy yell
low in delicate ~tracery; the plaid-etfecting
sIripe IN a one(linE shade of deep blue. The
sss"1 % is in black nsIIr Sa S6ig ora.n With a proiS-
ing a rare innovation shade of Rray.rreen. H.
( luninsd with pin,point %iottings Of brownish
heather background, with dark brown-plaid-
Snecting stripe, enhanced By %jottings Of deep
is a reddish brown background; with CHINA
mon-red-t pe.eaectinE plaid, and wide
spaced pinhead jottings Of topaz and amethyat.
me two last mentioned designs radiated pal
pably.
The Irish stripe rlaldinR effects are really
Scotch goods. The plaid is 234 inches in width
and well defined. There are backgrounds in
r aiIISy" Of Rre Ss9wa; Eypy; f9 Of t 1lee :'.o %ith s q P'u-
consorting with n 'ommingling OF stripes and
color i%ottines in dark blue, topaz. heliotrope:
WINE color, and cayenne red. The surface OF
this texture. is BY all odds the rougher.-on
which the enlivening hues disport themselves
| a matter of fact, it may be said that the Irish
plaids In every way are. than the Scots"
will vouchsafe that the individualistic four
button double breasted waistcoat will play o
very Important part in the ensemble. 1t will
~ings,,with the double-breasted frock coat. 1t
will DO worn also with the black cutawsy.
such a wide range of variability in the tex
lures that only a selection from the positive
this texture prevails with few, executions.
Black backgrounds are in the lead. with n
blue, and green. While many of the ducora-
ton colcrs employed in the suitings are seen In
the waistcoatinEs, there is a goodlv modicum of
their first appearance on this occasion.
lic dher Slu is a s,, So io,ttp color 9n SasEff % St se T NTH
apart, and n smarter tan covert waistcoating
with miniature l%pttinGs, halved in bright red
patternings each in two phaser. The first, a
black background, having a raised. waffle
pinpoint-like j]otting,. traversing the inter
stices. The second phase is a blue background,
the interstices traversed with canary silk pin:
Is in a raised. crinkled, worsted sur,
face IN the first .phase;;a black ackground
inches apart. The second phase is in a wine
brown background, enliyened at the same
lilac and cardinal. The last ma ned a chef
d'Guvere Of the art of color blending. There
are two score more of these purchase-incitinR
neckwear. Among the variations in bright
ployed in the %suitings and waistcoatings.
The fabrics are APPLY titled. There is a fab:
e eOioss. aaaii sGafded IN for re eeniarIss. and 4aGk lsSirea
laudably-one may adjudge-to ameliorate the
brilliancy OF the decorative colo fgurings.
ment that outRlitter all the others on this
high novelty textures; Egyptian tulip, a lus-
Etrurian n deep reddish orange. which but
Tor its lustre Is an exact replica of the deco
ling with dark blue, deen wine, and other com.
Elementary tgurinHs. Tissue de Persia is in
q woven semblance OF the costly India shawl,
covering the fabric. This is in a score of pat
ternings,. and just half that number of the
are puzzlingly artistic. and might as well have
been transcribed from the ooelisk., However
erTISto 1es f iasa n6 msi a sedie e]ire et dlet color Ia 5ieS oP.
ings. The plaits de Paris are dominantly the
Scotch t~artans, three-inch plaids in all the
Highlanders' colors-with n l-6-inch Jagged
edge stripe forming n connective series OF dla-
mond shaped designs, two inches in length
black shimmerinR silk, serving, in the strong
contrast. to accentuate the brightness OF the
pla laid with a dash Of harisiaa volatility.
that will be thoroughly. en- ra pport-if rightly
chosen-with the Scotch and Irish suitings. The
sack suitings will be made with peaked lapsls
in cOnsonau e with the double-breasted waist
coats that will cross ~just.bclo y the upper shirt
button that it will be worn with. The length
OF the coat will be three-Quarters over tn hip.
There will be slit pockets in the sack suitings,
as no decoration is necessary. They will be
The English walking suits. The coats will
be long in the waist and short in frock within
over the pocket. ana in length coming Just
down over the hip. The lapels viii. I've peaked.
suiting. II an individua!istie waistcoat is
worn with either the sack of English walking
suit the design, must be chosen IN n comport.
the mixed suitinGs.
Observation-Disclosures frock coat will be about
one.third longer in the lower thanfupper portion.
which will bring 1t down u just above the
knee. IT will, be in contradistinction TO the
sack and English walking coats made To fit
countr, In 1926, when high collars We're worn
much hell-crowned hat that was doffed with
an ALMOST ground touching sweep of defer.
cllte. Inc UOuDIc- breasted IrOck coat IS now
the rec, gnized garment for semi formal wear.
The trousers are going TO be conservative In
shane. which is neither loose nor tight, but,
you KNOW" lust right.
The dress coat with wide silk-covered peaked
lapels, the double breasted, four-button white
waistcoat, showing a wide exposure of shirt
front and three shirt studs or buttons-for this
Is u set complete -will continue to prevail.
Tho fashionblc collar will be os, inches at
maximum height. The cuffs will be linked.
he calendar OF belongings for gentlemen in tho
autumn and winter Of 1896, because with
the .neckwcar and ~suitings there will be an
ample snffirinncy of co.oring, and the colored
shirt VIII constitute an OVERRIDING that would
endangcr its future. TINS would be a matter
OF regret. for worn at the right time and in the
right way II Is an acceptable attribute of at.
tire.
The hats are in a conservative trend for the
iirst time IN several seasons, and therefore be-
coming. Happily the abnormal toothpick-
pointed shoes are on the wane, and best OF
all, there is "a strong likelihood Of the oblitera-
ton of the DE- collar, by which IL meant
that that parndoXical neck circlet that is a
stand-up-turnOvc or a turnover stand-up col
lar whichever the disordered intellect OF the
designer wishes To convey. However, II leaves
an nncomely vacuum on the band; ii Is un-
comfortable. far-fetched; there is no reason
me- q IA nEn in - has 80. H. IN II