The record-union., 1896-10-04

goods are warranted to look better af-
ter two years wear than linen
back velvet will look after one season
There is not the least decline in the
fashion for basque bodices, with vests
both wide and narrow, and moder-
ately fiaring collar in very many in
tances takes the place of the folded
stock so long in vogue.
Some natty costumes made Of ladies'
cloth and designed for slender young
women are made of two shades of the
cloth, the fronts of the waist arranged
in straps completely covered with rows
of braid or handsome passementerie
The arrangement of trimmed or ma
chne-stitched straps and tabs of the
dress material is greatlyvaried this sea-
son, and in great USE Some of them
simulate a girdle, high ceinture, a
chatelaine, Breton corsage with lines
running horizontally across the waist
front. Again the bands go round the
figure from under the arms, and over
the arm from the shoulder are laid
similar straps. On gowns mentioned
above the darker shades are used fo1
the straps. the skirt is one shade opened
up each seam on the front and sides
with stitched bands of the other shade
inserted. The small muttonleg sleeves
are very closely fitted with stitched
bands at the wrists.
Handsome lattice-patterned passe-
menterie bands are used on tailor
gowns, with the addition of small silk
cord sequins or tailor buttons Expen-
sive arabesque bands manufactured in
Vienna are laid over waistcoats OF
ripped silk to form stripes on handsome
visiting gowns Of faced cloth. The fine
cloth bodice has a Medici collar and
deep turn back cuffs overlaid with the
arabesque devices.
Fashion is changing from some of hel
extreme moods just now, but is max
ing no radical moves. Many styles are
settled for the ensuing season, bu
| changes will be developed gradually
and much variety in detail will be shoWr
| adapted to diversified needs and pur.
poses for the coming winter.
| Changeable and fancy plaided ant
| checked velvets in Oriental color mix.
| lures are in great use with tailors and
! high-class modistes in the formation O.
| autumn and winter costumes of ladies
cloth.
| Smooth-faced cloths are conspicuou!
among the autumn novelties, and brown
green and rich shades in blue seem to b,
equally fashionable colors.
| The soft satin foulards will probabl,
lose the popularity they gained during
the spring and summer, and their plac'
be taken by the crisp taffetas again
Some Of the new printed taffetas have
peculiar sheen that is neither moir,
nor an iridescent effect, but something
quite new and lovely.
=
| English tailors make some of thei
gowns with two pockets on the sides o
the front gore of the skirt, the opening:
covered with machine-s stitched tabs. Al
excellent idea, as it prevents one poke
being filled with purse, handkerchief
keys, ETC., to the detriment of the hans
Of the drapery, and the eventual saggin&
of one side of the skirt, and it will be &
great matter for woman for once IL
her life to find her dress-pocket without
a general search for it.
| Handsome princesse dresses appear
among imported French models for day
and evening wear alike, and these art
made Of velvet, cloth, corduroy, bro
cade, plain and fancy silks and satins
sheer woods and regal moires, brocadet
with raised satin figures, deeper shade
| than the Watered background.
Paris milliners are sending ovel
round crowned toques in contrast to the
oval-shaped models Of a year ago. Fash
ionable women first adopted these head
coverings to wear simply with tailor
costumes, for walking, travelling and the
like, but they will now wear them made
of pearl and Persian bead-wrought vel
vets, sequined satins and other rich ma
terials en- suite, with the most elaborate
| and expensive opera, theater and recep
ton costumes. Cream and pinkish-vio
let velvets with a crown of pearl-dotteC
satin, with band Of the garniture edg
ing the brim, are among the autumn
models from Regent street. Another i:
a toque of cream velvet trimmed will
shaded pink velvet roses, with aigrette:
to match.
Sage-gray cloth repped wool costume:
| are made with vests of fawn-colore(
drap d'ete laid in tiny pleats edged will
very fine gold braid, with narrow panel:
of the drap d'ete showing between
slashed portions of the skirt. These
panels are crossed all the way dowr
| the length of the skirt with rows of GOLD
braid set in clusters, about five inches O.
plain fawn-colored cloth showing be-
tween each cluster.
| IYEI nRYYY AYY11m nGAnU