The San Francisco call., 1896-03-01

lAand give dance or some ull-
= usually pleasant party. AS yet
no such an event has been announced, but
we live in hopes.
Some prettv lunches and dinners have
beeu given this week, and not a few card
parties on a small scale. believe that
Paderewski and his friend will receive an
ovation to-day. Sousa's arrival is being
impatiently awaited, and Miss Carrie Duke
has several friends in this City who are
eagerly awaiting her. She is bright and
bonny Southern girl. Two Easter brides
/ know are busily preparing the most
fascinating OF trousseaux, but as yet they
are not on view The H.-H. wedding is
an event OF the past, but the bride and
groom are expected to arrive here soon,
and we may be sure that their numerous
friends and relatives will give them a
warm welcome home.
have been reading about furs, velvets
and skating costumes until L am quite
fatigued, for in this climate at this time OF
the year we are more interested in lighter
fabrics, which are subjects OF especial IN
terest to those who are going southwark
ere long. The fete at Santa Barbara will
be on quite q magnificent sea le, and those
who 90 will never forget the beauty and
variety of California's flowers. All tour
lists and visitors should avail themselves
OF the opportunity which will soon be OF
fered them.
The illustration of the beaded waist
given to-day was successfully carried out
in a pale-green poplin on which IS de-
sign in beaded embroidery extending over
the shoulders. The work is done in shaded
green and bronze beads. The other bodice
is OF rOse-pink satin ana Chiffon with
choux OF yellowish lace overhanging tabs
of seauin-em b-oidered trimming. A plain
skirt OF seven cores completes good
gown. | lately noted another waist OF
rose-colored velvet and accordion pleated
silk elbow sleeves, which were almost as
effective as chiffon ones and have the ad-
vantage of being far more durable and less
expensive than that dearly beloved fabric.
The decolletage was finished with be-
coming ruche and outlined with beaded
cord and pink roses.
The softest anc finest OF muslins are
also to srpplant chiffon in many cases.
They will invariably be accordion-pleated.
The new gray gown for early spring Will
do good service all summer. AS you OBJ
serve the Jacket IS new shape. The skirt
is simply plain and full and there is Just
sufficient spring on the hips in the basque
OF the jacket to give the necessary fullness,
which is becoming to the waist. 1t is
double breasted and the novelty lies in the
collar and lapels, they are faced with vel
vet, which encircles the neck in marked
contrast to a darker velvet vest. 1t Is
singularly becoming to the slope OF the
shoulders and is a thoroughly practical
shape; the sleeves are cut large from the
shoulders 20 the elbow, whence they fit
the arm closely to the wrist. This design
eminated from Redfern.
The rich puilsy geranium color, which
has many names, is lovely either in MORE
poplin Ga beautiful material and one rap
idly increasing in favor or in velvet or
satin, especially when lntermlxed with
white satin lace AMI sable.
Basques are increasing in length for
both evening and morning wear. A fetch
ing cloth gown for young bride is in
white miroir poplin, trimmed with pearl
embroidery anu wreathed with roses.
Velvet Of tomato tint is said to be be-
coming and will be worn by those whose
complexions can stand it. Low bodices
OFF the. shoulders continue to be the fash
ien.-
a skirt called the "Pliante" has recently
been invented, which is said to keep the
organ or godet pleats of our skirts in their
proper fold, thus preserving their graceful
lines and preventing them from falling
inward toward our heels. As | have not
yet seen the Pliante | must quote the de-
some cases to skirt of black silk made
with cores and trimmed around the bottom
with full rutf1e, which stands out, owing
TO a row of fetherbone, which is pllable
and cannot break In the back breadths
there Is an arrangement of thin steel rib
bons, which are adjusted by elastic straps
to which buckles are attached. AS a rule
there are three ribbons in the upper and
three In the lower part OF the petticoat.
The lower ones are longer, of course, and
when they are strapped together form
natural godets which never lose their
shape. There is very little weight to this
arrangement, and the ribbons can be re-
moved or adjusted with ease" The at
tachments for this skirt are TO be had sep
arately and can be put in any skirt. 1t is
SAID to be an economical arrangement
which will give an air of STYLE 10 any we'll
cut skirt, and If all that is said about it is
true no summer outfit will be complete
without one or two such skirts.
The most artistic gowns at present are
being modelled after the fashions of the
Louis XIV period, so we shall see many
Iong-polnted waists, narrow sleeves, with
lace at the elbows and wrist The slight
tendency to the paners is noticed. The
blouse has been superseded by the bodice
and is worn with a skirt. made plainly OF
satin. 1t may be either black or colored.
and is more la Louis XVI than Louis
Az. Otrlped ana nOWered SILK IS used
effectively, as We all know. The revers
are large and open over a chemisette of
pleated lace or tulle. The back is cut like
shot jacket, the front being completed at
the. waist with fold of velvet of corre-
spending shade, the same as that en-
: ployed at the throat. The collar is in
Variably of the modified Medici shape,
faring out from the back of the neck The
inside of the collar must be covered with
fina 1ac h fa lie aif har fd. 49, l.
Sc revers upon the chemisette in iabots.
Before continuing about our frocks, a
few words about hats and bonnets
although to be sure but few OF Us will in
vest in new ones for several weeks, and
one of our first purchases will be sailor
hat, and we may rest assured that some
especially pretty changes will be seen in
this sensible and useful style.
Paul Virot is sending out numberless
models. One of his latest is three