Birmingham state herald., 1896-10-25
NEW STYLE OF BEAUTY.
The Coming Queen Must Have Oval Face and
 Swanlke Neck-Types of Feminine Loyeliness Change Often.

dts long, thin face, went out some time ago. The Beresford, plump and blonde, died away, too. Latterly the professional beauty type has been the irregular, the piquant, the variable. Mrs. Hobart c. Chatfeld-Taylor filled this description perfectly. But the fashion has changed. l. The professional beauty of this year will be the regular featured one, and any lining but the extreme blonde. Titan hair, auburn, chestnut and brown all come within the requirement. But the most fashionable is the extreme black. This Is 80 deep and glistening that it is mirror like, and in some lights looks a blue. It Is not frizzled, but is arranged in keeping with its glossfness.
 The professional beauty type of face Will be long and plump. It is quite on the Greek, yet with a touch of piquancy mous beauties you see many such faces. But there are few in real life. Consuela, Duchess of Marlborough, is in this type, and the Louise of picture gallery fame, stepping down the staircase of the palace with scarf fioat ting from her throat, is another type The new Mrs w. c. Whit ney is much on this style, and, as Mrs. Randolph, was quoted for the length of throat and the long oval of her face
 The Princess of Wales, who holds her own through all the years. is, unfortu- nately, not of this style, on account of her protruding forehead, which she will not uncover.
 It may sound peculiar to those who keep no annals of professional beauties that the style of prettiness should change, and that the woman who was a beauty yesterday is not even good-looking today. But that is the reasoning of those who know nothing about professional beauty ism and how it is obtained.
 Almost any woman who has been professional beauty of any type can con- tinue to hold her title as long as she re- fains her features by adjusting herself to the style of beauty in vogue.
 Fifty years ago in this country nothing was so much admired as the broad Dutch 1 face, the high cheek bones and the red cheeks of the women who led society. The mother of Chauncey M. Depew, the la dies of the Jay and Stuyvesant families, all came under this description They were beauties. Today they would not be considered good-looling unless they adapted themselves to the changes in beauty ideals, and this would be hard for them.
 The professional beauty of this season must have a very long face. This Is her first requirement.. Next she must have a very long and slender neck. Third, she must have long nose. Fourth, she must have plump contour to her face. Last, the mouth must be bowed in many curves.
 In classifying this style of beauty 1t is difficult to place it. But it started With a woman we'll known in London society, Wn0 cODleQ a picture III fdSl year SdiOl. The head was an ideal. The woman looked at it. and did not think it so very ideal after all. T can look like that,' she said to herself. And she went home. and. after few hours study, did manage to look like that. So successful was she that malicious persons accused her of posing for the painting in order to make her own style of beauty the vogue in London and Paris. In this country she speedily found followers in Mrs. Elisha HeG AIIn 0 n HsI- liott, who consciously or unconsciously modeled their styles to suit the new type.
 The face with these ladies was made long by parting the hair. There are those who have long face to start with; ana then the most difficult work of the pro- fessonal beauty is done, for 1t is shape and not features that count this year. By parting the hair and drawing 1t down the face lines were heightened ana the face made to resemble the long Greek at once.
 The lengthening of the neck is more difficult. This can only be done by rais- dng the hair and dressing the neck low. "A necklace shortens the neck, ana must mot be worn unless the neck is so long as ito be ungraceful, but that would be very long, indeed, for necks that would make a swan sick with envy are the fashion this season.
 The modelling of the nose sounds most impossible, but even 1t can be accom- piished. A nose can be made longer by a touch of powder upon each side, where the nose is too plump, and by the tinlest toich of red upon the inside of the nos 1rils. The last is practiced by the Paris ion beauties and by a few Londoners.
 ut American women think it savers too ;aut n of red nose or sore one. Tn { ue.ling the nostrils with red the Paris i as are exquisitely delicate, and the tiniest daub of the rouge is pronounced enous n, while we, with clumsier fingers, put oa the red until we can see it. Per haps that is one reason the practice or reugeng is not in favor here.
 And here word about the use Of paint nd powder upon the face. The profess Sioaal beauty in style this year uses al- mos. none of either paint or powder, be- cause her color must be creamy. and her eyes bright instead of being treated ex- formally. But when necessary there are many who contend that Its use Is more than justifable; nay, obligatory. They say it is as necessary to a woman's deli cacy in some cases. where blemishes are to be hidden. as the perfume that per vades her garments, or the gloss upon her hair, or the kayes upon her temples. That is their argument, and 1t isn't such a bad one. The overuse is what has brought them into disfavor; never their proper use. A gentleman who had al- ways inveighed against the use of pow der said to his wife, after talking to Mrs. Cleveland at white house reception: "Why can't you powder like that?" He referred to the exquisite smoothness of the skin of the presidents wife, ana in- ferred that it was done by treatment.
 Mrs. Cleveland conforms charmingly to the new style of beauty. She parts her hair, lengthens her neck by rounded bod ices and sees that her throat line Is not destroyed. She is really new beauty. Mrs. Whitney is the same, and In ner- wedding robe was superb.
 The plump outline of the face so neces-- sary with the slimest figure Is managed by massage. Seventy-five strokes of the chin night and morning are warranted to keep the neck firm and free from the "brisket'' so dreaded by beauties past their zenith. Bernhardt, thin as she is, and old as she is, has this plump chin. and there are society women who boast of it while being too slim for the weight allowed them for proportions.
 An absolute need of the professional beauty of this season is the bowed mouth. This can be accomplished only by touch of red, if nature has been unkind in the matter of Cupid-bow mouths. The Japa-