The San Francisco call., 1896-11-05
He HAS A Ii
HUNG CHANG COAT
The Latest Creation of the
King of the Dudes
Causes Applause.
A Rare and Radiant Collection
of Ties Brought From
Kansas City.

James Waldere Kirk. the king of the
dudes, oftentimes spoken of as the sue
cessor to Barry Wall, because of the
unique and varied assortment of raiment
that he possesses. is at the Palace. The
king brought along with him from the
East this time three trunks packed to their
utmost with clothing. In the varied col
lection are neckties of such extraordin ary
patterns that they are the wonder of all
who have beheld them. Some are emerald,
cardinal and turquoise in color. Others are
checked and criss-crossed with black and
white, making them look much like the
trousers OF a gambler in a mining camp.
However, Mr.. Kirk is very discree in
the use Of his selection of ties. He knows
when to use one to fit the occasion, so he
says; but probably the greatest thing that
he brought with him here was unique
garment which he calls the Lii Hung
Chang coat. 1t is a brown overcoat and is
big enough for two gentlemen of the size
of Kirk
This coat is my latest creation" said
he last night at the Palace. 1T is made
of beautiful seal-brown material, the
cloth being a special color and finish 1t
is made to fit v efy loose, in fact so loose
that it might be able to contain two or
three men of my size. The shoulders are
butt out two in ches wider than would be
required for an ordinary coat. This is to
carry the immense back or to produce the
Ii Hung Chang effect, as it might be
termed.
There is perfect fit over the shoulder,
but two large folds start middle-ways and
hang in perfect fu.ness to the bottom
of the coat.
Each of the folds in the back contains
about twelve inches of cloth extra above
the amount required for the regular
proportions of the back. The seams OF
the coat are oyerlaid with a strap OF the
same material half an inch wide, which
produces beautiful effect. The bottom of
the sleeves are stitched six times and of
the same width as the strap. This gives
them the appearance OF finished cuff.
You will see I have pockets galore
four outside and four inside, but the out
side pockets are not for use. They are all
put on as patch with flaps. A coat of
this design would look very unfinished
without them. But 10 stuff a lot of things
into them would make the coat hang
The inside pockets can be used, as they
are so made that they hang separate from
the cloth or lining.
1.-THE cloth was made by an English
wooden manufacturer and seat direct to
me and then constructed by my tailor, as
you see.
81 take great pleasure in stating that 1
never had garment made in New York
that was superior to this.
There is no very great change in other
garments, except that the trousers are
about an inch smaller, both on knee and
bottom. The Gu away and sack coats are
about two inches shorter.
''The double breasted waist coat is much
in favor now, especially in sack suits
made of cloth that carries decided stripe.
"ln trousers checks en- shepard plaids
are essentially the thing for afternoon,
worn with frock coat and silk hat.
1.-THE swell travelling suit is q shepard
plaid doub bile breasted coat and waistcoat:
cap to match.
"rhe round-toed shoe is just beginning to
make its appearance out here, although
Predicted and adopted them two years
ago.
About the scarf-ring which brought
into use a year ago. l have several of the
most popular ones. They are set with
rubies and diamonds and emerald and
diamonds. Fancy waistcoats are very
popular, especially for driving or bicy-
cling. usually wear red while cycling.n
Mr.. KirK is only lacking in the yellow
jacket and thrce-eyed peacock feathers OF
the Chinese statesman and diplomat to
make him bear striking resem blance 10
him. The Ii Hung Chang overcoat has
been observed by guests of the Palace
with many outward signs of admiration.
The ties, which have been Iikened unto
the coat OF Joseph because of their numer-
Gus colors, were imported from Kansas
City. The overccat, trouserings and other
clothing are from that city and the East.