davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

People who live in Mill Valley say that
more women have climbed TO the top of
Mount Tamalpais this year than all those
put together who have made the ascent in
the last five years. In fact 1t has become
quite popular for ladies to climb the
beautiful peak on the north shore of San
Francisco Bay, and often dozen par
ties can be seen winding up the trail in
order to get the grand view from the top
and also to get the benefit of the fresh air
and exercise incidental to the trip.
Why has the trip suddenly become so
popular? some might ask. The answer is
plain enough to any one who will take the
trouble to even glance at the ladies who
have reached the top. They wear bloom
ers. without bloomers they might have
accomplished the ascent, but it would
have been such hard work. In fact it is
the hard work incidental to skirts that
has kept women from making the ascent
in the past.
Strong, indeed, must the woman be who
can on hot day climb to the top of
Tamalpais while wearing skirt, to say
nothing of the discomfort of the dust and
heat of the garments. They are so heavy
to carry and make the use of an alpen-
stock almost impossible, which is really
dangerous because few women are athletic
enough to get over the rough and uncer-
tain trail without some support.
But with bloomers on, how different it
is. A woman can get over the ground
with an ease she has never known before
and reach the topof the mountain as soon
as most men, except, of course, those men
who are trained to the sport. There is no
exercise equal to a climb to the top of
Tamalpais. 1t is not fatiguing trip and
| is really healthful because the top of the
mountain is not too high above the sea
| level for the atmosphere to be rarefied.
Many women feel certain modesty
about wearing boomers on the public
streets. even when riding bicycle. But
| they need not feel that way about wearing
bloomers to the top of Tamalpais- A
woman without bIoomers on the trail is
an unusual sight. And, indeed, when one
sees a party it is the skirt that seams out
of place. There are no hoodlums on the
trail to pass unpleasant remarks, and the
men that one does meet do not seem to
] even see ones garments. They are nearly
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30
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The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

Fashion continues to expect her follow
ers to have small waists, but the
pinched-in, wasp-like waist is regarded as
thoroughly out of date. However, good
corset-maker never makes a corset which
gives an abnormal appearance, but alas,
the woman who thoroughly understands
the needs of her customers is even harder
to find than the capable dressmaker, for
no woman should allow her figure to be
crushed by stiff, unyielding sort of affair
which will give her an artificial appear
ance. recently heard of prominent So
cial leader being troubled with most un-
becoming and questionable amounts of
color, who decided to consult her physi-
clan on the subject. His prescription
was brief. LET out your corset four
inches" The social autocrat was indig-
nant. MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30
MHRCELLH DISCUSSES
THE HUTUMN FASHIONS

ginning to look old-fashioned and their
adherents rather decidedly passe. LIE roi
est mort, vive lie roi.
If any OF my readers must have gowns
for petite tenue, the most satisfactory are
the white grenadines. An authority saws:
They never seem to get out of order, but
stand all weather and no end of wear and tear,
looking smart to the last. 1 have liked one
built over white silk, the skirt untrimmed and
the bodice round, buB laid in three broad
pleats in front, the back bias and seamless
From under the center pleat in front, quite.
high toward the coIlar-band, are two small
white satin revers, covered with guipure and
embroidered in fine green pailletes. A little
below, from each side pleat, another revers of
the same size and finish is spread out giving
an exceedingly pleasing effect to the figure
The bodice is belted with a green and white
striped ribbon, plisse into fans over the hips.
A green velvet eollar-band, with pointed gui-
pure ruff, was very becoming. The sleeves,
simple modern gigots fitting the lower arm,
had lace trills at the wrist. Such pretty hat
of white satin straw was worn, the crown
rather high and covered almost entirely with
two shades of green tulle. Perched on the top
of the tulle was single American Beauty rose
with foliage.
At reception given here two weeks ago
gown of apricot taffeta shot with white
was worn by an Eastern bride. The most
beautiful jeweled insertion was intro
duced in the skirt within two feet of the
bottom. 1t was about four inches in
width and looked as though composed of
diamonds, emeralds and golden threads.
A sort of little bolero was made of the
same, and the entire gown had lining of
white glace with friIls of the apricot silk.
Shot apricot silk is in high favor, as it is
undoubtedly extremely becoming to
many. As result OF this discovery one of
the prettiest girls I have ever seen was a
picture last week in a sheer organdie frock
richly incrusted with real Valenciennes
| lace made over an apricot taffeta, also
shot with white. She wore wide sash of
taffeta ribbon exactly matching the silk
slip. 1t was tied in two donkey ear loops
and the long ends reached the bottom
of the skirt, and were deeply fringed.
Her simple hat of white leghorn was
simply trimmed with tulle, which matched
her sash, ana three short but very choice
ostrich feathers. This lovely toilet was
worn at country luncheon, on which
occasion was almost equally admired a
| creation of most exquisitely 6ne en-
broidered grass linen over a slip of Nile
green silk. A long sash of plain grass
linen encircled a pretty waist. This sash
was trimmed on the outer edge with lace !;
it measured between sixteen and eighteen
inches at the ends, but tapered off to half
that width at the waist line. The chic
bolero was completely covered with
puckered Valenciennes, front rounding
and back cut up in point. The epau-
lettes were also of puckered lace, laid in
iabot folds over the slightly bouffant
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

bodices, unless we possess some real lace
founces, for in that case they can be
utilized to great advantage, as you see in
the models presented this week. 1t is well
to have not more than three or
four evening dresses made during Oc-
tober, for numerous little fads and
caprices will obtain during December.
But few words concerning the passing
season at the present moment: "Muslins,
and that of the sheerest. gauzes, crepes,
elk canvases, 'yeilings,' lace over thin
glace silks, painted etamine. embroidered
tulles, are the order of the day, adorned
with founces upon founces of lace, and
with ribbons galore, in tints so soft, so
fiower-like, and so brilliant withaI that one
ends py resembling some of those bonbon
bags W hich our great tontiseurs have the
secret to make so perfectly beautiful"
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

Numerous will be the autumn brides,
and already they have ordered some very
delightful gowns. One I have heard about
is quite exquisite. 1t is bridal dress OF
rich, white satin. The corsage is draped
softly with white silk chiffon, which is
to be caught up on the shoulders with
sprays of orange blossoms. 1t droops
over the top of the crinkled, tigA-ftting
chiffon sleeve in double puff. The top
OF the bodice and shaped panel IN
the skirt are beautifully embroidered III
tiny seed pearls. Sprays of orange BIOS
SONS are to be arrayed at each end and IN
the center OF the embroidery. Equally
interesting are other frocks in this trous-
seau, which are far enough advanced for
me to give you some idea of their novel
features. A smart little gray chevlot
serge has loose-fronted bodice with an
unusually handsome yoke of cut Jet, down
the front of which are three jet buttons.
Another sensible frock has a well-hung
skirt, absolutely plain, of moderate width.
The jaunty open-fronted coat has roll
collar and fanciful small revers. The cor
ners are rounded and there are two pock-
cts. Homespun is the material employed
in shade Of chocolate-brown.
A reception toilet of pink and gray shot
silk had a folded cincture extending high
under the arms: it is pointed in front
and bordered along the top with lovely
silver passementerie, as is also the top edge
of the corsage, which has yoke and col
lar of pale gray crepe de chine over rose
pink satin. With it is to be worn cape
Of pale pink satin, covered with the finest
hroi orod h1oalr chiffon. tho fritlS are
of white chiffon.
Many of the creations of this brides
bright modiste for evening wear are quite
charming-for instance, one is OF pale
green satin, run with thread of gold.
The bodice has the appearance of being
swathed round the pretty wearer (who is,
of course, a slender maiden) in folds;
across the decolletage is a broad piece OF
creamy lace; over one shoulder are carried
soft folds of golden-hued tulle; over the
other extend some half-opened Marechal
Mel buds. The sleeves consist of many
frills Of the tulle sewed over the green
satin. The skirt is without adornment,
but is completed inside with pinked frills
of golden -colored taffeta.
dinner gown of turquoise blue silk has
pointed belt of embroidery done in sill
yer, Jet and emerald green sequins. A
narrow strip of the same outlines the
corselet at the top and waist and forms
braces over the shoulders. The chemi-
settle and sleeves are of black net, on
which appear the same sequins with good
effect. These also outline every seam ol
the skirt.
For bridesmaids dresses yellow and
pinR pronoise tn he the most popular as
The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

heavy creamy white lace. This is to be
used as an applique over silk for toilette
that promises to be quite delightful, and
nc woman with the least artistic ideas
could have failed this summer to have
procured lovely pieces of silk crepe
lace and mousseline de sole, from
which later can be evolved charming
dresses for receptions, dinners. dances
and theater parties, provided they can Sc
cure the clever dressmaker or the little
woman who sews so well by the day, and
this reminds me that that rara avis has
not yet been discovered by me, in spite of
much diligent search. Little compare
lively is now required of the dressmaker,
as skirts will, for the most part, be but
slightly ornamented, the charm of the
gown consisting in a perfectly fitted bodice
and skirt that is beyond criticism, as for
some time yet most of the trimming is to
consist of that which appears on our
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

J. ]. Coleman of Middletown, N. Y,
is certainly victim of misplaced con-
fidence. A short time ago he fell in
love with very beautiful young lady
and married her. Soon after the knot
was tied the bride induced him to deed
all of his property to her. Everything
went lovely till the other day when he
complained to his wife about visitor
she had, whereupon the young bride
became so angry that she ordered Mr.
Coleman out Of the house bag and
baggage. Poor Coleman had to go, and
at last accounts was still out in the
cold world, wishing he had his life to
live over.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

The postoffice department has called
upon the secretary Of agriculture for
assistance. Under instructions from
congress Mr.. Morton has purchased an
enormous quantity of seed for gratui-
tous distribution by senator's and rep
resentatives. He was late In placing
the contract, and as the season for gar
.dening has arrived in many districts
he is daily besieged by congressman
clamoring for their quotas. The deal
ers were slow in sending out the seeds,
SO the congressman have ordered the
entire lot forwarded to Washington so
that they can give it their personal at
tention. AS result, the Washington
postoffice is submerged in garden seeds.
The condition IF the service choked
with tons of seed caused the postmas-
ter-general to ask Secretary Morton for
relief by some arrangement whereby
the seeds may be distributed directly
from the dealers.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

For eight years the mileage of an
nual railway construction in the United
From nearly $4,000 miles of track )s,--
in the wonderful year of 1887, the tot:1-
have gone down by thousands and hun.
dreds, until 1895 touched the lowest
round for twenty years by adding only
1903 miles to our railway system. But
this does not mean that the demand for
railways is nearly supplied and that
construction will continue to decrease.
On the contrary, there is room and will
be need for additions far greater than
the entire present mileage of the coun-
try.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

A deputation of farmers and graziers
from Norfolk and Suffolk, Thursday,
waited upon the president of the British
Board of Agriculture, to urge the gov
ernment to abandon the Cattle diseases
bill, which aims to regulate the impor-
tation of cattle from Canada. The dep
utation contended that there is no di-
sease in Canadian cattle and no danger
in their importation. The presidents
reply was unpromising. He said it was
useless to send commission to Canada.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

New York's legislature passed the
Greater New York bill over the vetoes
of the mayors Of Brooklyn and the City
of New York. This is something like
having greatness thrust on town.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Ephraim Brick, of South Bend, Ind,
mas been sent to the penitentiary for
two years for the murder of Adam Wun-
derlich. 1t seems appropriate that a
brick should be put inside wall.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

A scientific exchange saya that "the
woman with blue eyes is always to be
trusted" 1t is different with the man
who has a red nose.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

The Turks seem to have killed every
body in Armenia, and are now begin
ming on Crete. Fifty persons were
killed and wounded on the island last
week in a two days fight.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Chinese naval or marine accidents
are about the only things IN modern
times that are quite as disastrous as
English colliery explosions.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Helen Dauvray is married again, and
the fact naturally suggests the thought
that if actresses changed names when
ever they change husbands it would be
very hard to keep track of them.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Count Won Kotze, who recently killed
Baron Won Schraeder in a ddel, sent
floral wreath to decorate the bier of his
unfortunate antagonist.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

George Gould would better look after
his little brother Howard or the young
innocent will be getting married. before
he's 40.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

This is an age of machinery, Of
science, of law. Law, we are told, gov
erns everything. We live by law, fall
sick by law, are doctored by law and
are pious by law. But law in reality
cannot do anything. Law is as power
less as an old wooden image. For what
ia law? 1t is the principle by which
a thing acts; it Is a method of pro-
cedure. But, observe, somebody must
proceed There must be living agent
behind the law, for laws cannot make
or execute themselves.-Rev. w. C.
Brakeman, Methodist, Brooklyn, N. Y.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Rev. Dr. Watkins of Springfield,
Mass, has a way of his own of filing
his church. This is 1t. He says he is
glad to see young couple come to the
best place in the world, the church GER
vice, to do their c6rstipg. The plan is
said to be WeskifE fuy@ as well as BIZ
cycle ehessltj0 ~
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

It's a good town that can hold it's
own these times. Prescott, Ontario
has exactly the same number of people
1t had fifty years ago-2,7 ,7O2. The world
world "do move" but Prescott don't
seem to be hustling very much.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22
TALMAGE'S SERMON.
bad COMPANY" THE GREAT
EST EVIL OF OUR TIMES.
Golden Text: my Son, Walk Not Thou
in the Way of Them; Refrain Thy
Foot from Their Path" for Their
Feet Run to Evil-Pro-. 1915, 10.

ARDLY any young
man goes to a place
Of dissi / p a tion
alone. Each one Is
accompanied. No
man goes to ruin
alone. He always
takes some one
else with him.
MAY it please the
court" said a con-
yicted criminal.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Holmes last request was for plenty
of rope, and he got it.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

The people of Mexico are very ac-
commodating to try our embezzlers.
We could no do as much for Mexico.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

Buffalo Bill says he is going to leave
the stage, meaning, no doubt, the old
Deadwood stage.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

During the absence OF three months
of TS,v. Mr.. Ccchrane of the Unitarian
church at Bar Harbor, Me-, mis- wife will
attend to all bis ministerial duties.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

When the British gaze upon thous-
ands of approaching Matt oeles, the
prospect is dark.
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

This sin works ruin first, by un-
healthful stimulants. Excitement is
pleasurable. Under every sky and in
every age men have sought it, 'rhe
Chinaman gets it by smoking his
opium; the Persian by chewing hashish {;
the trapper in buffalo-hunt; the sailor
in a squall; the inebriate in the bottle,
and the avaricious at the gaming ta-
BILE. We must at times have excite
ment. A thousand voices in our nature
demand it. 1t is right. 1t is health
full It is inspiring. 1t is desire God
given. But anything that first gratiies
this appetite and hurls it back in n ter
rife reaction is deplorable and wicked.
Look out for the agitation, that, like
q rough musician, in bringing out the
tune, plays SO hard he breaks down the
instrument. God never made man
strong enough TO endure the wear and
tear Of gambling excitement. No Won
der if. after having failed in the game,
men have begun to sweep off ina gin
ary gold from the side of the table. The
man was sharp enough when he start
ed at the game, but maniac at the
close. AT every gaming table sit OF one
side Ecstasy, Enthusiasm, Romance
the frenzy of joy: on the other side,
Fierceness, Rage and Tumult The pro-
fessional gambler schools himself into
apparent quietness. The keepers Of
gaming rooms are generally fat, rollick-
ing and obese; but thorough and pro-
fessional gamblers, in nine cases out Of
ten, are pale, thin, wheezy, tremulous
and exhausted.
Rather than enter the companion
ship Of such, accept the invitation 10 a
better feast. The promise of God are the
fruits. The harps of heaven are the
music. Clusters from the vineyards of
God have been pressed into tankards
The sons and daughters of the Lord
Almighty are the guests. While, stand
ing at the banquet, to fill the cups and
divide the clusters, and command the
harps, and welcome the guests, is a
daughter of God on whose brow are the
blossoms of paradise, and in whose
cheek is the flush of celestial summer
Her name Is Religion.
"Her ways are ways of pleasantness,
And all her paths are peace"
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

War news from Africa ought to be
accompanied by pronouncing diction-
ary
The Yale expositor., 1896-05-22

plant in our youth. Sow to the wind
and we reap the whirlwlnd. Plant in
early life the right kind of a Christian
character and you will eat luscious
fruit in old age, and gather these har-
vest apples in eternity.
l urge you to avoid the perpetual
pleasure-seeker. I believe in recreation
and amusement. God would not have
made us with the capacity to laugh II
he had not intended us sometimes to
indulge it. God hath hung in sky, and
set in wave, and printed OH grass many
a roundelay; but he who chooses
pleasure-seeking for his life-work does
not understand for what God made him.
Our amusements are intended to help
us in some earnest mission. The thun-
der-cloud hath an edge exquisitely
purpled, but with voice that Jars the
earth it declares, 81 go to water the
green fields" The wild-fowers under
the fence are gay, but they say, 1--WE
stand here to make room for the wheat
field, and to refresh the husbandman
in their nooning." The stream sparkles
and fo.ms and frolics and says, Il go
to baptize the moss. I lave the spots
on the trout. l slake the thirst of the
bird. | turn the wheel of the mill.
rock in my crystal cradle muckshaw
and water-lily." And so. while the
world plays, it works. Look out for the
man who always plays and never
works.
You will do well to avoid those
whose regular business it is to
play ball, skate or go a-boating.
All these sports are grand in
their places. I never derived so much
advantage from any ministerial asso-
citation as from ministerial club that
went out to play ball every Saturday
afternoon in the outskirts of Philadel-
phia. These recreations are grand to
give us muscle and spirits for our regu-
lar toll. believe in muscular Chris
tianity. A man is often not so near
God with weak stomach as when ne
has a strong digestion But shun those
who make it life's occupation to sport.
There are young men whose industry
and usefulness have fallen overheard
from the yacht. There are men whose
business fell through the ice of the
skating pond, and has never since been
heard Of. There is a beauty in the
gliding of boat, in the song of skates,
in the soaring of a well-struck hall,
and l never see one fly but l involun-
tarily throw up my hands to catch it;
and, so far from laying an injunction
upon ball-playing, or any other inno-
cent sport claim them all as belong
the grand industries of church and
state
But the life business of pleasure
seeking always makes in the end,
criminal or a sot. George Brummel vas
smiled upon by all England. and his
life was given to pleasure He danced
with the reeresses, and swung a round
of mirth and wealth and applause, an
til, exhausted of purse, and worn out
Of body, and bankrupt of reputation
and ruined of soul, he begged q biscuit
from grocer, and declared that he
thought a dogs life was better than
mans.
This sin works ruin first, by un-
healthful stimulants. Excitement is
pleasurable. Under every sky and in
every age men have sought it. T'he
Chinaman gets it by smoking his
opium; the Persian by chewing hashish; ;
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1896-01-06

4 Cold Water PANT Especially
Designed for Inside Work on
FACTORIES and Public
Buildings.

II is a dry powder which can be pre-
pared for use by simply stirring in COLD
WATER, and can be applied by any one
AMI will always produce good work.
1t is VERY WHITE, extremely reflec-
tive ana hardens on wall like stone and
will take any tint.
1t will last for years and is unaffected
by gases.
One coat covers better than two coats of
oil paint or whitewash.
Il can be used on any surface and for
all classes of work, even for the finest
decorating.