Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-04-04
MORE RAMPANT THAN EVER.
Gossip About Capes and Some of the
New Styles.


New Styles.
cape made Of linen recently seen was
composed Of a series of founces-hve-each
edged with valenciennes lace. Another
lace-edged founce stood up to form the
neck ruche and was supported by band
of white velvet ribbon orrarented with two
fancy buttons in front.
Speaking of capes, they have come at
last They are more rampant than ever,
as II to compensate for the small-sized
sleeve. which Is not yet q reality, however,
except on the stage, and stage people are
bound to exaggerate such things, else they
might be considered too realistic, ana tnat
is what people most dislike in spite OF their
the new costumes are not small by any
means-merely notifications OF the fidlcu-
lousy large one that was too extreme to
have g. long life.
But to return to capes. They are made OF
many different materials, chief among
which are velvet, velutina, silk. MORE pop
lin, with any amount OF lace ana net ana
chiffon to form a cloud OF mist sA round
newest material and will doubtless be worn
great deal. because it Is Of light weight
and therefore preferable to velvet Tor
summer cape. It comes in figured patterns,
which suggest the Dresden and Persian ma
terials. The material is accordion pleated.
and Is edged with trimming of lace or ch11-
fon. or both. which is nearly half the width
of the whole cape.
ionable, especially when the lace has sug-
gestion of antiquity about 1t. A brown SILK
cape that is accordion pleated and pinked at
the edge has broad collar Of lace covering
the upper half. with high rue che OF brown
tulle standing up around the face.
A plain black velvet cape with very de-
cided flare is trimmed with steel beads and
applique lace in small embroidered patterns.
1,Ia ell nyJ a
price is s14.ipdecinedly cheap as those
things go. A black cape that Is easily made
has a yoke Of black velvet, with folds OF
green laid about two inches apart. Inc
edge Is trimmed with nounce upon hounce
of wide-meshed net, almost like yelling.
Many of the capss have straps OF ribbon
or passementerie or any hanG trimming run
ming from each side OF the neck to the bot
tom Of the cape, back and front. Some
wraps are made to fit and belt in at the mid
die Of the back like the once fashionable dol
man. Others are provided with long tabs
in front, which always have clerical look
about them to me. All have very high neck
ruffs, to compensate for the amount Of I'M
protected femininity below. But summer
capes are only for ornament, anyway and
when worn in the spring there is chamois
Jacket concealed somewhere beneath the
f1ufFness.
These are for very dressy occasions For
knockabout wear, we still cling to the
jacket. The jacket comes In two or three
or more varieties. Ihero Is the DoX coat,
which Is just like the one we nave beep
wearing, only more so: the Louis XIV and
XVI jackets, which are not outside wraps,
but part of ones dress. and the English
sack coat, which fits in the back like Louis
jacket, but has round loose edges in front.
A suit with a jacket Of the latter variety has
skirt of green and fawn -colored checks.
The jacket which is Of plain green cloth,
has very small lapels, four pockets, enc
above the other on each side, and four but
tons on one side with corresponding button
holes on the other. The lower corners are
rounded off like a mans sack coat, and the
whole is quite short.
The skirt is a good example Of the sep
arate skirts that are being sold now. Black
skirts, unless they are silk or satin, will lot
be worn much The correct thing is a check
or fine plaid In the light fawn and gray t;nts
shot with some bright color. All the spring
goods run to the notified effects. Cheviots
and tweeds are the regulation street ma
tertal. according to the English idea. Paris
ians tell us to wear mohair, and there are
certainly many things to be said in it's favor
1t is cooler, for one thing, and that will be
an advantage when we want the gown for
travelling dress next summer.
Persian patterns in silk and wool are
lighter than either of the others and are
very fascinating.