The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-10-17
pyramid.i sections ard vice cores can

pyrami6ai sections and vice gores can
remove these impedinents 10 present
styiishRess and bring their enormous
skirts out collapsed iato fne form.
Most women are taking very kindly to
the new state Of things, moro kindly.
probably, than they will after the fash
ions are more completely settled. The
old model gave . woman precisely the
style that she liked Her head, waist
and hands appeared small. The shoul-
ders and skirt were expanded, and this
according to fashion, is the accepted
standard. But the owners Of the nav
costumes look odd enough with their
largo hands and biggish heads and
waists suggesting = suddenly acquired
amount of adipose that is anything but
becoming. The wiseacres are begin
ming to wonder il this somarsault In
fashion will start a mania for tight
lacing.
Women are going to ret themselves
into symmetrical shape somehow or
other, and it seems pity that volani-
nous sleeves could not have been left
alone, as upon these the entire general
effect Of the costume depends Some
of the new sleeves have great bunche.
Of fullness at the shoulders. and many
of them suggest large elbows from tho
fact that a curve or a puR or an extra
gore Is set in to permit the arm TO bend
easily and gracefully.
Many grumblings are already heard
about the new models. and we may ex-
pect that with the coming in of settled
winter fashions some modification will
be adopted which viii do away with
tho most serious objections to the new
sleeves.
The ornamentation Of waists is Q
natural sequence Of tho decline in
sleeves There must always be an OBJ
jective point in dress, and as this in nc
longer possible. SO far as sleeves 60.
designers are turning their attention to
waists, and seeing how elaborate and
complicated and labored they can make
them In style snd trimming.
Almost solid masses of braiding is
one of the new fads. While 1t is ad-
mitteA that the Paris designs show
work that is not equaled or scarcely sp-
preached by anything yet done here. IL
Is certain that It viii take but . short
time until our maids and rnatrons Will
fashion as dainty ernbroidcries and
braidings "a any of those that come
from the other sale of the water.
A stylish jacket has a high faring
collar elaborately braided and bolero
fronts 20 match The cuffs are also
deliberately braided, and the moderately
full sleeves are slsshed at the toys and
black velvet puffs are set IN. The braid
ing on thu garment Is black. and the
lining of black satin.
Embroidery Il to rival braiding in
the winters decorations. An order has
already been given for dress Of ivory
white broadcloth to be embroidered In
woodbine sprays and leaves IN autumn
eolors of this most heautlfSl vine.
Reversins the ordinary style Of such
work, the larger ends of the stalks
spread At the wasss line IN front, tho
upper portion of the front breadth BE-
ing Q n1ass of almost cold work. and
from this the sprays and ee,drils droop
and sweep around toward the back Of
the skirt. The ends OF the yines ara
concealed by a belt. and above the bel,
q piastron shows tiny sprays that seem
20 shoot up from the general center.
The sleeves are without ornament, save
the GUYS, where there In q little en-
brsidery. The collur II elabornoeiy |
wrought, and Small sprays trad down |
the back Of the Fvzzst ard over the |
shoulders. All IN all this ts one Of the |
MOS. ozqulsite pieoes cf work ever exc
eused for . dress Of this description.
The general tendency Of skirts ia 10
the 80 of very little Of the material a. I
1t Is evSlentthst the import I
ers and manufacturers of elegant gar
nitures arc likely 20 have ttssir innings
Within tho next few seasons. So IT. /
lie Of thess materials La heen u~esi Of /
lsts tnas shn busine>s may Be said 9,
hs practically staanatAd- Bot q new
,tats of things h coming. and jsts Of
ri kinds. oeiored beaAs in every con-
neivabh tsnt, rseh gsilo.or.s, silk en-
bsosdxses and silk and bead combine
ions are shown, and among kisb no~-
sltiss are ths most superb embroideriss
"a leather. Leather t1mrnAnss are
pieroed fall % holee. an doufiinsd asuund
,sch gen spses with ne>dbrwo<k A few
teais and briIlaDss srs I'D In tia
FLass Of gsrn.ture, but they do not seam
20 b - Appropriate 80 t,e krk and
eaShsR by t1enseiyes.-E. Y. LsdTer.