The morning times., 1896-01-26

ergegow n with jacket. The skirt Is ssitched
in parallel rows from the edge up twelve
inches. The jacket In fitted behind a nd hose
and d6ubie-breasted In front, blind fast.
cred. with square revcrs and moderate-
sized collar, and is finished with stitch
ings- A loulard blouse is worn under IL OF
blac it'd green Scotch tartan, made up on
the straight. IL is shirred in front and
back. rat her deeply in the back to keep it
flat. ard there is a pluit down the front.
The sleeves have the close lower part
shirred in the seam The collar is on the
bias. For wear with this a able boa and
muff I'd hlac OK velvet hat of medium size,
turned up behind with black plumes and
mauve flowers, and finished in front with
a sirass and pearl buckle.
This model was recently carried out In
gray cloth for the Inranta Eulalia, with the
jacket garnished with velvet facings and
crocheied buttons.
C.oth, Unlike serge. having a duh, flat
surface, demands a trimming. 1t is i'm
proved by velvet AID fur, and both are
used. A gown of dark blue cloth with
plain skirt has a blouse trimmed with
green and blue plaid velvet. There is
double box plait down back aud front.
with n fold OF the velvet set utder on
each side, and a collar and belt OF the vel
vet drapcd and fastened behind. This gown
was made for young woman for wear
Under a chinchilla cape. / have seen three
cloth gowns of exquisite make, two be-
longing to a SIav princess living in Paris
and the third made for star of Tie
Coincide Francais, that are thus described:
The first is of mauye cloth, mauve velvet
and sable. The cloth skirt is boidered with
fur. The long-sleeved blouse Is entirely
of velvet, and eXte.ds four or five inches
below The waist line. so as 10 form li,tle
basque. The Russian belt is of gold and
silver cloth, with eDameIed clasps. sable
tippet and muff. Large hat, ali black.
The second is OF darH myrtle green cicih
and plush OF the same color. The skirt
is faced some fifteen inches deep with the
plush, and near the top of the plush are sew
eral rows OF narrow green soutache braid.
BODICE DESCRIBED.
The bodice is a bolero with the fronts
draped in plaits, and opening over a bour-
fant of cream lace over yellow. The float
ing reyers and collar are faced 10 match
The skirt. A cape of the plush, with lines
OF soutache near the edge, is very full and
is SO cut as to fall partly by godets and
partly by gathers from the neck. A very
wide turnover collar is faced with chin
chilla. This, with Chinchiila muff, forms
a very handsome visiting dress.
For some guests going down 10 the cha
teau of Dampierre, where the Duchess Of
Luynes has been giving some fetes, one OF
the dressnakers provided the following:
An evening gown of srG y-blue velvet. The
skirt was plain and slightly long round tie
back; The bodice q blouse with three box
plai's in front and back, the front falling
slightly over the belt, and the neck cut
square aud finished with a simple bind
ing; the sleeve a short puff. For all trim
ming a drapery of lace passing over each
shoulder and down 10 the belt in bach and
front. the two draperies being quite sep
arate.
Il dinner gown composed Of black velvet
skirt and yellow satin bodice cat in basque
form, the basque with an irregular siashed
edge. very ornamental, and long double
pointed revers faced with white lace. 1t
opened>oyer cream lace front very much
draped; collar and belt OF orange velvet.
The belt showing only across the front.
Another au-biack gown was OF Jetted
uxile mounted over silk. The bodice had
the lining cut down TO give square