The San Francisco call., 1896-02-23

w. bells rang on Ash wednesday,
N1warning many that gayeties must
@cease; and in the churches numer-
Gus were those arrayed in somber
garments, which will not be laid aside
until the triumphant chants on Easter day
tell all to rejoice and be glad"
The great musician has left behind him
hundreds OF enthusiastic admirers. The
Young Ladies Orchestra played to an ap-
preciative audience. The girls were, most
Of them, very pretty in their gowns Of
white. pink or blue. Indeed, some of them
had many pretty compliments paid them.
This orchestra is an organization which
should be encouraged, as it gives young
musicians many advantages. One OF the
most gifted ex-mem bers, who was for some
time first VIOLIN" is now studying in
Berlin, at the conservatory, and doing
wonderfully well.
We have all heard so much about thu
beautiful decorations at the bal masque,
the gorgeous toiIettes and beautiful
Jewels, that there is but little left for any
bne to say. For my part l think it a pity
more originality was not shown in the
costumes. l thought numerous original
ones would be seen, but originality in this
respect was sadly lacking, but most of the
participants had an enjoyable evening,
and after all that is the chief consider
alton.
The Presidio hop was unusually gay,
there being an abundance OF pretty girls
ana an ample supply of beauX, all of whom
will anticipate an Easter dance at the
Presidio with impatience, as every one has
tuch a good time out there that even the
long trip 10 and fro is not regarded as an
objection.
Already the rose fete at Santa Barbara
Is being discussed with much interest, and
from present indications | should say San
Francisco would be well represented there.
Already quite number of our prominent
people have gone south for rest and change
pf scene, but for those who will not leave
home until the summer, this Is the favorite
SINE TO make up dainty summer things,
Ind how perfectly lovely the new fabrics
Ire. First I lose my heart to dream of
IN organdy and little later to beautfied
srasscloth, Tor now some OF them are run
with silken stripes, and the summer silks
Ire enough to coax the money out OF any
one's purse. I Just wish l expected to
spend the summer IN place where the
temperature would be such as to justify
me in ordering dozen soft fluffy gowns.
must not forget 10 tell you that l saw
three very stylish Eastern women to-day
most appropriately garbed. One wore a
town of dark brown denim, the skirt
teing full and plain, and the waist fitted
10 perfection, and had a deep collar and
cuffs of white linen. The tout ensem BILE
vas all that could be desired. Another
WAS in heavy ecru linen, the skirt, as
usual, with seven cores, the pocket
opened, showing a pretty pale blue shirt
waist, with white turneddown collar,
The cuffs correctly mate ing the shirt.
The third was in a well-made gray home
tpun, tailor style, with white collar and
cuffs relieving it. A black sailor with
suills completed an excellent and sensible
costume.
Redfern has Just completed a good Wis
ting costume for early spring and summer
wear. The bodice, being OF a rich Sicili-
enne silk OF a berge shade is adapted to
sverhang the waist slightly, being held in
place by folds and knotted loops of moi
sette velvet, of which also the folded
tollar is made. A saddle yoke of crevette
pink cloth falls III deep points from the
shoulder, the center point reaching the
waist between the fullness of the silk,
giving becoming line TO the figure. This
treatm ent Is also applied to the back OF
the bodice, excepting, however, that the
eilk is arranged less full at the waist A
handsome design of braiding in mixed
threads of golu, silver and nolsette is
worked at the outline of the yoke and is
also formed in a chevon just below the
soIlar, and the same design is also applied
10 deep gauntlets offhe crevette pink, which
serve to finish the silk sleaves. The skirt
bf plain godet shape is of fine twill cloth in
Ind is lined with crevette pink silk. The
vide brimmed hat Of beige felt has clus-
Ter of crevette pink and beige shaded
blumes on either side of the crown, fast
tned by knots of noisette velvet. The
large parasol is of crevette pink silk COW
lred with beige chiffon, of which a deep
Kill is used at the edge. The gloves are
VI a light shade of beige.
We hear from Paris that at the soiree
siven last mouth by Nine. Aubernon de
Serville many chic toilets were noted.
Dne Vicomtesse was charming in dress
II sky blue satin opening over pale pink
.ablier OF satin, which was richly covered
Nth lace and dotted with diamonds. The
lodlce was ornamented in the same way.
he bodice was low and the lace studied
With diamonds fell over the short full
heeves of pink gauZe. The fan used was
ii feathers of the most delicate shade OF
pink, the mounts being of tortoise shell
Vet with gold and diamonds.
Another gown of pure white tulle bouil-
pune had little bunches of roses and vio-
ets scattered about; the low-cut bodice
lad many OF these flowers arranged in the
hIle which surrounded the neck
Nine. de st. Yictor's dress is said to
lave been out OF the common, so | must
llso tell you that it was of bright pink
hille, trimmed with mistletoe and wide
White lace arranged in quilles. This lace
lppeared also on the bodice as we'll as on
he skirt; sprays of mistletoe nestled in
Ihe lace which took the place of sleeves;
arge bows of pink MORE and mistletoe
ield up the lace here and there
At this affair was also admired a toilet
IF plain black velvet, beautihed with rare
loint d Angleterre, and one of plain, rich
iiEk satin was enriched with silver en-
Iroidery. which appeared on the seams
Ind around the waist, and, says this cor
respondent, all these dresses were made
fith godets, a little long. but not trained
he shoes matched the robe, with en-
sroidered toes, and pale-colored silk stock
hgs matching something in the toilet.
Eery long gloves were seen with all cos
hmes.
Mrs. Morse, wife of our late Consul Gen.
iral, lately gave an "at home" and ap-
feared in a rich MORE broche, the color
Ii ri ho hadino hla,1cad