The Republican journal., 1896-02-20
~i0ht-Seeing in Madeira.

...... tspondence of The Journal. I
.. MADEIRA, Jan. /, 1896 We
botel among the several in
iey on account of its name
sal edinburgh. - Though com
rough, it turned out to be not
Ul as its high sounding title
.u one To imagine. 1t is more
ntY cottage in ''Merrie Eng
he leading hotel in city of
ple-s standing in the middle of
tu, which, like all other island
surrounded 10y enormously
e. L feet high and topped by all
L-- BOTTLES which its English fire.
.. Have been emptyng during the
-r a3e-and that is saying a great
M he quantity of glass on top.
T- -arden is rooted with bowery
r work., overgrown with passion vines
.luatis beneath which wonderful
u.- am, and cape jasamine and other
ualiume the air. The low ceiled
m with its wide open folding
ncTiooks a paved courtyard ex-
. dong the back of the house to
r. lNulI against which the Atlantic
r4eS. Like the garden, the court :
VT perfect bower, formed by skill
rllcing the branches of the trees,
-. .IeA hang cages of tropical birds.
t little lizards, like living jewels,
r.. the sunny walls, and wicker
4... r Il shaded places amid clumps
4- invite the l0unger. The air is
delightful; never hot, though
o summer reignS, but like early
l4. ur Middle States. This is the
U- uf tlc season, which begins in Oc-
u.t ld ends in May. The house is full
t.- Ssh guests bcefy men who talk of
.ol sandwiches and alf and 'alf,
lrf angular, Hat footed, but re-
n.. lair compleXloned spouses.
d. nN .Iings fresh recruits of inva-
#- .H is delightful to watch the
l. 4-+etmation which takes place
wrought upon them by this
ilte eonsumptive whom you see
'a le,ehed out on a recliuing chair,
ieless to do more than breathe,
WGiow be carried about in Il
.. ae day after he will try sled
9"- 3rAt week you may meet him
..A.yu hill like a gale of wind, OF
....- over the heights on donkey
. .ues ne longer colorless, eyes
- uugh forgotten.
picturesque as Funchal ap-
r~t Sight, it improves surpris-
Hiuaintance. As one becomes
with its labyrinthine cow-path
winding steeplv up hill and down,
-..,eIs many objects of interest that
n.e a torget its lack of architectural
he. Nowhere else in the world is
''- .ltF SO well built and beautiful
ted, so clean and prosperous, in
"tl auAitectural art has been SO en-
tul square, generally two-storied
s r and whitewashed outside. with
.puses behind which the Portu
n., sit tanning themselves and
le ul at passersby. Many of the
@ have queer little balconies in the
y" TORY, where the families and their
-"e- pit in the evenings, and the pedes
Tap 90 he street below hears their light
'o-avi and gay conversation, Portu-
-'vs~ songs and the tinkle of guitars
4s Nt has accomplished little in Fun
tN4 lature has done her best to atone
-' tar omission. Many of the dreary-
sing casas contain rare attractions
@.au their solid walls, and the visitor
Nu" steps within unprepared for the
'sh' thinks of enchantment as it's ter
L''ed gardens are revealed to him, over
'-'h1H9 the ocean and the mountains and
'''' Rrd with the profuse vegetation of
'"N 1uues. Here the palm and the pine,
t1e cypress and the magnolia, the pome-
Siaaaie and the banana, the walnut and
IT." snaH- the apple and the coffee tree,
Nlne their various shades of peren-
1a| 'efdure, while flowers of every hue
"A 'picr odcr, growing wild III untold
"l4Sion and clambering over every wall
"N ,eilis, blend their fragrance from
A'' season to another
~ 9Ieasant to go out before breakfast
-'" stroll IN the market-place. Entering
+'T @dltd and well-shaded enclosure
'Ab great stone gateway, you find
HH sanding behind stalls and women
i0AS on the pavement beside enor-
'7 baskets of home woven cane, and
'''"F ol lmportunate intinerantS beg
'7 ''' aims or clamoring to sell you
'tlved wood work, monstrosities in
/ way OF feather flowers and other
wares. Most noticeable is the
'"'ahce OF fruit, of all zones and sea-
Sfapes of every kind and color, figs,
N"eS, apples, peaches, nectarines,
'' strawberries, the latter bigger and
than our very best, and lasting
a'll The year around in Madeira. Inside
""fket-place is a circular building
'''' as circus, an institution greatly
''0eo IN Funchal. There is no theatre