The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-01-19

NF HIS week l give illustrations of q
girls frock, morning dress and
ball gown. The girl is clad IN
II dark blue poplin, trimmed with
velvet one shade darker, over
which is a cape collar of beautiful
silk guipure. Poplins of most superior
quality are now in vogue, and come in
every imaginable shade, making excellent
dresses for schoolgirls. The matinee is
composed of pale gray flannel combined
with dark crimson surah. The ribbon is OF
the same shade. This is very becoming for q
brunette or a demi- blonde, but the blue
eyed, fair-haired young mistress should
substitute pale blue or rose color.
The ball gown is a Partisan creation, the
simple godeted skirt being light blue
satin, adorned only with three bows OF
ribbon velvet placed at regular intervals
down the left side; the bows increase in
size as they descend. The blouse corsage
is OF mousseline de sole over satin of the
same shade. 1t is beautified around the
neck with white satin exquisitely embroid-
cred with gold; this embroidery extends
in V-shaped vest down the front. Around
the waist is a waistband of the black rib
bon velvet. The balloon sleeves are of the
satin, studded with what looks like black
pearls, and ribbon velvet Is run through
slashings in the satin and terminate in
sprightly four-looped bows.
The CONNECTION is delightful and abounds
in good ideas. With it go slippers of the
blue satin, and long gloves OF undressed
white suede stitched with white; they
reach the elbow and are worn in a thou
sand wrinkles from wrist TO elbow. also
desire to pay particular attention to the
fact that this corsage IS cut square in
front and V-shaped III the back, and the
latest style imperatlvely demands that this
Y should be cut extremely low, thus neCes-
stating very low eorsets for evening wear.
a correspondent in Paris while giving
an order to one of the most distinguished
costumers there, saw an evening gown
intended for our new American Duchess.
1t was a white satin, the skirt OF which had
Dutfs OF white silk gauze, between which
we're more than thirty BIRDS OF paradise.
The skirt had a border of the heads OF
these rare birds buried in rose leaves. 1t
is to be hoped that Consuelo will not be
seen by Queen Victoria when so attired, as
at a recent reception her Majesty saw
fair Countess arrayed in crimson velvet
over the skirt OF which were many BIRDS OF
paradise, and at once expressed dis
pleasure by remarking to her: 1--WE
would think more highly of your character
did you not cover yourself with dead
birds" as result, birds are not at all
used In England for such purposes, but
are the rage in Paris and Vienna. Speak
ing of Vienna reminds me that visiting
costume there has been called the Noel
dress" 1t is of rich crimson velvet,
trimmed with sable. On the iaunty coat
are rosettes OF the fur, and velvet toque
has fur brim. 1t is completed by muff,
which looks as though two fur cuffs had
been Joined together. 1t is lined with
crimson satin.
In all gowns more vivid colors are seen
IN com bination. Among the favorite con-
Irasts are carmine req with green, gold
Ghamois, nile green with Steel gray and
Bordeau with light blue.
.L IN farls and Vienna capes win soon be
on!Igs OF the past to be had for a song
shyWhere. As a :esult the cloaks aye of
marvellous elegance some have Innings Of