davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-03-13
A H|SORY OF HATS.
ODD. CHANGES WORKED IN RECENT
YEARS BY FASHION.
TIE PRESENT MODE,
During the Past Ten Years All of
the Evo1utiOns Have Been in
Favor of Beauty and Elegance.

When, We wonder, did Fashion first turn
the necessity of headgear into feature of
lornament? We can hardly say; for as far
back as leisure permits US to trace, head
coverings have always been distinguished
by their endless variety Of form and de-
sign. The history Of the hat and bonnet
would be subject of magnitude indeed
for perhaps there has never been an item
or feminine dress upon which fashion has
been more whimsical or arbitrary.
! In our grandmothers days, and in some
OF our mothers. too. 1t was the bonne;
that was comme IL faut for select wear: it
was not a small but a large bonnet, and
with curious contrariness. large hats
were voted bold and loud, for it was the
age of shrinking modesty, the era of slop-
ing shawled shoulders, dropping ringlets
and the shady poke bonnet of drawn silk
or Dunstable straw formed the most fitting
headgear for the woman of that hour.
We remember well how the harmless
novelist OF the period ever depicted the
youthful heroine with the bonnet adorned
with single feather shading her bushing
and timid features; 1t was a little monoton-
Gus. perhaps. but, alas! in modern fiction
the youthful heroine has forgotten how to
blush. and her timidity is replaced by
stern emancipation in mind and attire.
But 1t Is our duty to critcise the hat
large. versus the hat and bonnet small;
to consider it's merits and demerits. its
suitability and otherwise: and put reminis-
cences OF all but modern data sternly
aside.
Fashion on the whole should, we consider,
be congratulated on the evolution of fem
mime headgear during the last ten years
she has strayed through many phases Of
ugliness and discomfort, but at the present
moment has achieved beauty and elegance
IN millinery. glance at any fashion
plates from. we will say 1885 to 1889
will show plainly how hideous were the
coverings we wore with such complacency
The chief characteristics of the millinery
at this date were heaviness and inartistic
blending Of colors; a tendency to overload
without due respect to balance; and a
general unbecomingness caused by the un-
happy method of placing the hat or bonnet
20 far down on the head that all the
delicate lines Of the brow and hair we're
quite lost.
And yet we found delight in these earlier
modes. One much beloved was it will be
remembered. a revived pork-pie shape
trimmed heavily with lace and flowers !;
followed was this by the first glimmering of
the toque. an erection of velvet or plush
also much adorned with stiff rosettes of
lace and bands of ribbon.
These hats but seldom were happily we'd
6ed to the head. and are remembered by
US as a grand inducer of frontal head
ache. Fashion at this time was conserva-
tive in her method Of millinery trimmings.
and decided that if the adornment was in
the front OF the hat or bonnet the back
must go bare as the proverbial robin. And,
I vice versa. did her decree become later
when the simple sailor hat was metamor-
phosed out of all recognition by back
turned right up and fastened by a multi
The herald., 1896-03-13

millinery was made little later, when the
bun, satlrized an immoralized coif1ure,
dawned upon us. To match the bun
was the hat, an entire antithesis to its
former companions-the hat, shallow to
plate-like flatness, trimmed scantily but
with grace, and worn as far back upon the
head as 1t is now tilted forward but ex-
aggeration Is fashions greatest falling
and ere long We were balancing our head
gear in such way as to give a look OF
absolute deformity, But with the disap-
pearance of the bun from smart circles
a general tone Of beauty and art crept into
our millinery. and despite exaggeration.
wild blendings of color, and incongruous
mixture Of materials, our headgear has
never been more lovely than now.
Fashions lates' whms in this. perhaps
are width and heighth. and she shows them
in the picture hat, surely one of the love
lest of revived creations; it has our warm
est affections, and must be justly considered
the setting par excellence for beautiful
face But the pictute-hat to be a success,
must be worn with discretion: it is the
property of youth and beauty. and features
lined with Times footprints should never
be shadowed beneath It, 1t must be. too,
of farest fabrics and costly plumage, and
The herald., 1896-03-13

place as lady in waiting, but OF the influence
she might hope TO exercise over himself
Her persistent refusal was really the
cause Of her husbands bankruptcy, for the
Bank Of France refused him assistance IN
his straits. She was not an intimate friend
of Nine de Stael. although the latter, when
banished from Paris, had visited her at
ST. Ecouen. but many Of those who had
freQuented her parlors were. Necker's
great daughter. that 'raacally Nine. de
Stael" as Napoleon called her in letter
to Fouche Rad since her retirement to
Switzerland played the role Of exile SO we'll
that she had rendered herself almost G.
divinity TO her friends. They made an
nual p!lgrlmages to Coppet, returning to
Nine. Recamiers pdrlors with new arrows
of spite and wit to discharge against the
empire. In the end both the hostess lV'self
and the frequenters of her husbands house
were therefore visited with condlgn punish
ment. on the charge that they had excited
public alarm and discredited the Bank of
France With several Of her friends The
great lady was banished from Paris, and
later was sent into exile.
That Carlyle was not alwaye the agressor
is vouched for b. lady who was a witness
of a fracas in Chelsea. This lady, calling
ore day in Cheyne row met CARLYLE on his
own doorstep his head bent and perplexity
and annoyance wrinkling the philosophic
brow. Somewhat to her surpriss--for she
was an intimate OF the hcuse--the Sage only
bowed, and went on his way down the dis
nal little street The servant showed the
visitor into darkened room. where were
to be seen the debris of tea and the pros
trate form of Mrs. Carlyle on the sofa.
did you meet Thomas" demanded the
wife, in a voice which showed unmistaka-
BILE traces of a recent domestic storm.
Yes. He was going out. ! met him on
the doorstep, looking very sad. What's the
matter. my dear?" THE matter"" cried
Mrs. Carlyle from the sofa. with sparkling
eyes. i've been two days on this sofa. with
a sick headache and he's only this instant
come in and asked me what ails me! And
we'll, I've just thrown my tea cup at him.
Porcelalns made into the shape of shells
but in colors resembling rare marbles and
fine stones are new departure in lamp
shades They cannot compare in beauty
with those where the real shells are used.
Opaescent porcelains ornamented In the
forms peculiar to Japanese art are I'M
The herald., 1896-03-13

still, paradoxical as 1t may seem. 1t is
worn on the street constantly by women of
unquestionabe taste, and it is wonderfully
fetching and becoming, TOO. little of it,
well applied. goes far toward Frightening
Up a somber gown. Broad bcas and big
muffs. or more often the muifs alone. are
commonly seen. and that not with carriage
tolettes either.
At this stook-taking season the wide
awake housewife is on the lookout for
the small but gorgeous remnants, which
are so temptingly offered in the furnish
ing departments of our large stores. And
any one interested in fancy work dis
covers endless possibilities Of beauty in
their rather meager proportions. What
IL there is only a small square Of each
design, contrasting pieces of these silk
damask beauties are selected and quickly
transformed into a fluffy, durable and
exquisitely pretty sofa pillow, with
rufIie of china silk to break the effect
where the contrasting edges join. Many OF
these remnants, which prove to be veritable
I art squares, are used as centers of table
covers, headrests and pillow-backs for
lounging corners, and even for dainty
couch and crib spreads.
And then the wonderful possibilities in
the way Of chair decoration with these
damask and cretonne and other attrac-
tive remnants. A very handsome chair
may be made from an ordinary splint
rocker, and worn and unsightly one at
that. by home upholstering. This consists
first in stuffng the seat and back with
curled-hair in sufficient quantities to make
it luxurious. The hair is covered first
with a very stout sheeting or ticking, then
with a handsome monte cretonne, to be
tackled to the chair frame first with ordl-
nary furniture tacks: then its edges should
be covered with silk furniture braid the
color Of the groundwork. the braid work
| to be tackled down at intervals with small
| polished brass headed nails. Another
| trea atment is to upholster the chair in a
richer stuff of a single color, and then to
gld it's frame and decorate the four seat
corners and the top with silk cord. ending
in pompon tassels A third treatment is
to paint in enamel colors and gold. and
upholster with movable cushion and head
rest made from heavy remnants Of pret-
tily colored damask
The most famous and clever society ot
the consulate and early empire was accus-
toned to gather In the drawing rooms Of
Nine. Recamier. wife Of the great banker.
The wealth Of her husband and the dis-
tinction Of her own manners made her a
parsonage OF great importance among the
| returned emigrants. who dattered and CO.
ressed her. She was one Of the most In
sidioua. and Consequently one Of the most
dangerous, Of Napoleon's foes. He tried to
buy her silence, through Pouches inter-
mediation. by the offer not merely Of 4
The herald., 1896-03-13

the tocue which We can ever adapt to OIL
personal appearance without forfeiting OF
OF Its charms: It may be simple and nea
elaborate and costly. coquettish and digni
fed. and worn with grace and becoming
hess by every woman who is not absolutel,
in eere natronhood. The toque possessss
too, the virtue of comfort. and is more uni.
versally becoming to our features than the
hat, either large or small. At present.
Fashion shows no sign Of deprving us OF
this valuable acquisition to our wardrobe.
and we hope cordially that Its reign may
extend unto jubilee.
The herald., 1896-03-13

tude Of stiff ribbon bows. leaving the front
quite plain. and further completed by a
fully gathered brim of silk or velvet. And
OF these lined brims We are constrained to
speak moment. What works Of elabora-
ton and over-much material they were and
how many hours Of agony did they not
cause the amateur and aspiring dressmaker,
for brim minus its lining was an un-
parionable crime in the eyes Of fashion
The bonnet at this period was much worn
Its shape resembled the Princess" made
the rage by a certain royal lady; and al
though possessing neatness and some
charm to frame certain faces, it was, with
out doubt, one of the most uncomfortable
of head coverings, unless the coiffure was
carefully considered. Its tendency to slip
backward in our most dignihed moments
was humilating, and We did not mourn
much over the death Of the Princess"
bonnet.
The most notable move Of fashion In
The herald., 1896-03-13

A good deal Of nonsense is sometimes pub
lished about sending children to bed with full
stomachs This Is well enough so long as a ,
babe Is an animal and has not awakened to
much use Of the brain. but as soon a {
child has come TO an age of active thought he
should have chance for light exercise and
sport after his meals never however. allow
ing him to go to bed excited. Above all things
to be deprecated Is tbs stormy season so fire.
quently indulged in just at retiring. The chil1
prefers to sit up. and Invariably retires in a
storm OF passion added to by the storm Of
nurse or parent He should bo calmly and
firmly restrained from all such outbreaks.
There is great difference In children about
retiring. Some very active brains grow sleepy
and desire to retire early; others equally
nctiNe grOW Eakefni ANd eNciteG.
The herald., 1896-03-13
ALL ABOUT FRILLS.

There is tendency this season in favor Of
pointed-toe shoes, with patent leather vamps
and cloth uppers to match the gown.
Chine taffeta or faille silks of dark grounds,
covered with lighter pompadour effects are
the thing for street. while the same skirt may
be utilized with a more delicate shaded bodice
for evening
Collarettes are and will remain fashionable.
Some Of them are perfect dreams Of beauty.
The pointed and square are very much In
demand. but collars with epaulets will no
doubt be the prevailing style.
Very new are the Louis" coats of black
and dark green velvet, made with wide revers
attached to broad appliqued white satin col
lars. The fronts Of many are finished by q
Iabot Of white or cream lace.
The herald., 1896-03-13
An yden for Dyspeptic. q.

dear old lady who is just 80 years old says
that che has throughout that immensely long
life been remarkably free from anything
like dyspepsia She attributes this good health
entirely to habit formed in youthT-and never
She is very fond OF both coffee
and tea and always has been, by the way
drinking either one or the other at every meal.
But she never drinks either with the meals
She always waits until she has finished eating
and then drinks the contents of the cup beside
her plate. And I Is TO this course Of pro-
ceiure that she believes she owes her eman-
cipation from tho rational Indigestion.
The herald., 1896-03-13
THE GUARDIANS OF TRUTH.

What secrets strange might be revealed:
What plans for future deeds;
What mysteries could be unsealed
To all The world that reads,
II, ss the fables say men do
A skillful scribe would go
And delicately interview
The ducks at Quantico.
Our prophets into error pass.
"'These things are thus" they say,
But, ere week. we find, alas,
They're quito another way.
In vain you'll search the country
For some who really know
Tho facts, unless you interview
The ducks at Quantico.
Washington Star
The herald., 1896-03-13
Three DelishtfuI Facts.

white brocade with chine flowers makes
up we'll with a bouice Of white chiffon, red
ribbon showing at the bust opening and upon
the shoulders.
dark blue frock looks pretty with blue
and white striped collar, cuffs and waistband
and full white chiffon front
A pretty white satin gown, with very long
shoulder seams supporting lace elbow sleeves
over tho white satin is we'll decked with fes-
toons Of pearls looped upon sleeves and cor
HaEe.
The herald., 1896-03-13

Skirts for travelling will be built of plaid
wooden crepons with plain silk blouses to slide
easily beneath the long wrap These crepons
are very handsome the plaids being incon-
spicuous and chiefly Of one general color--a
dark blue has faint markings of pale yellow
a gold brown is plaided with pale blue.
other dark blue has light blue and red in it,
and. handsomer than ALL reseda green
crepon is barred with pale rose and pale
blue. Thee are only $l.Il yard.
The herald., 1896-03-13
VOICE OF THE WESTERN WIND.

Voice of the western wind.
Thou singest from afar.
Rich with the music of a land
Where all my memories are.
But in thy song ! only hear
The echo of a tone
That fell divinely on my ear
IN days forever flown.
Star OF the western sky!
Thou beamest from afar,
With luster caught from eyes l knew,
Whose orbs were each star
But. oh, those orbs-too wildly bright
No more eclipse thine own,
And never shall find the light
OF days forever flown!
e. c, Stedmarl,
The herald., 1896-03-13

differs slightly from the above; 1t 10 made
according to the size OF the fish. with equal
quantities OF milk and water, ana falr
aeasoning of salt and pepper; the milk neips
TO preserve the whteness OF the hesh; some
salt water Ssh require to be boiled In
wine or vinegar court bouilion, but ths
best succeed FAR better with the milk. u
any csse 1t Will be stated when vinegar
should be- used. Besides this process thers
are other general ways Of cooking fish.
viz. en- netelote (of which there are three
kinds) the bourgcoise. the vrge and tie
plariniere en- fr!ture-ie., a common fry
ing rrocess--and. finally. au win Gn wine).
| Each or these preparations ie suited IL
classes OF fish which will be indicated with
each recipe. The mateiote applies to
various kinds of fsh-carp. cells barbel.
pike and hake are all most suitable. Clean.
trim and cut the tish in pieces: put into
saucepan bouquet of parsley, THYME. one
bay lea:. two or three chives. couple oe
cloves. garlic root, ana on this place the
fish; cover With equal quantities cr red
wine and stock, season plept.fully, and set
this over the fire to boil brslsly for about
twenty minutes. moietening with more
stock the while. If necessary.
K y
Proceed with the inatelote bourgeoise rs
follows: Put into large stewpan lump OF
butter and about a score Of onions. toss
them TIL they assume golden color. adj
two tablespoonfuls of -four. and moisten
with the liquor, which should meantime
have been strained off the FISH. Put the
fish aside to keep hot. Stir the matelote
over the fire, put In some chopped mwsh-
rooms or morels and a squeeze OF lemon.
or few drops of vinegar Let the mix
ture simmer and bell gently til reduced
to the desired quantity Gf the onions should
not be qnite tender by this time, add a
little water. and let it boil few minutes
!onger). Arrange the fish ON u suitable dish.
cover It with the natelote. garnish with
fried bread and Gerve very hot.
y x
Matelote a Ia Marinerc.-Prepare the
fish as above; when it is tender put tt aside
to keep hot; strain the liquor; put It back
over the fire with port wine gldssful OF
brandy or plain eau de vie let Il boil for
quarter of an hour, it will then be suf1i-
ciently reduced; thcken the sauce with a
piece of butter worked With flour, and flvs
minutes before serving add some button
onions and chopped mushrooms previously ,
slightly Drowned in butter; serve hot as
before
Matelote Vierge-Bol the fish in pieces
with a bouquet garni, two parts Of white
wine to one Of water and small piece Of
butter Sautez some small onions and
The herald., 1896-03-13

mushrooms with pepper salt, and nutmeg;
add two or three tablespoonfuls of -four.
After these Ingredients have boiled and be-
come thoroughly incorporated with one
another, add, stirring the while, enough OF
the liquor in which the fish has boiled TO
produce the quantity of gravy you will re-
quire; when slightly reduced, thicken it
with the yolks of two or three eggs; ar
range the fish n dish. pour the sauce
over it, Garnsh with any of the following:
Fried bread, fish quenelles. crayfish, small
groups OF shrmps mushrooms or trufies,
as convenient or desired. These are very
characteristic French dishes, and are ex.
cellent euppers during the cold season.
The herald., 1896-03-13
The Bnbx,. Const,tutionn1.

II the baby is even ordinarily healthy he
should have his daily airing, no matter what
the state Of the weather From the first, time
he Is taken out his constitutional should be
reigiousiy observed. To take him out on some
days and keep him homo en- others is to pave
the way for all sorts OF illness. The child
Will be much more liable 10 take cold who IL
kept indoors on some days than the one who
goes out evory day.
The herald., 1896-03-13

monds, or rather, paste, and which has a
most beautiful and brilliant effect. At the re-
cent court balls at The Austrian capital most
Of the guests had their dresses draped with
ths novel trimming and the effect was gor-
geous beyond description. Now tnat diamonds
are SO successfully inflated, only an expert
can distinguish which is real, and the Vienna
evening dresses look like ghttering mass
OF light, the bodices especially being almost
covered with brilliauts.
The herald., 1896-03-13

The old-fashioned bareges have come back
with the mohairs. They are thin and wiry,
with an indEitesimal thread of some color
running through a black ground. A narrow
black satin stripe runs the other way of the
goods. These. ;oo will have colored silk
lining to CLEAN through the transparent tex
IN
The herald., 1896-03-13
A Refreshing CHANGE.

Were there any new features in your
exhibition of impressionist paintings?'
Yes; we hung half the pictures upside down
and everybody was delighted with the eff
fects. Chicago Record
The herald., 1896-03-13
The Pert Jacket,

A tea Jacket Of black velvet con bs worn
with almost any combination OF silk waist
and cloth skirt. 1t IL smarter and less Ian.
guild looking than full tea gown.
The herald., 1896-03-13
BeEemmed COrsnges.

The most fashionable embroidery for even
ing gowns in Vienna is lace covered with dia-
The herald., 1896-03-13

Dresden figures are especially suitable IT,
children's frocks.
The herald., 1896-03-13

Matelote Vierge.--Boil the fish in pieces
with a bouquet garni two parts OF white
wine to one Of water. and small piece Of
butter. Sautez some small onions and
The herald., 1896-03-13

he most notable move Of fashion in
The Washburn leader. [volume] (Washburn, McLean County, N.D.) 1890-1986, 1896-08-29
Ione considered the most practical With
the immediate surroundings.-R. H. in
Practical Farmer,
sa1t md A.he. for Hogs

Salt and Ashes for Hogs.
Where hogs are not allowed the
range of pastures and where they are
prevented by the useless and cruel
practice of ringing from roofing at their
own sweet will, they are very likely to
be deficient in both quality and
strength Of bone, and then we have the
stereotyped complaint that the breed
is too fine in the bone. How car it be
anything else unless bonemaking mate
rial is furnished? Where the ration is
Of corn, or largely of corn. the evil is
more pronounced, and therefore the
more important it is to provide bone
making material in some ready way.
One Of the readiest is that Of keeping
wood ashes and salt within reach of
the hog at all times. 1t is astonishing
how much they will eat OF it, and aston
ishing also how far it will so to correct
the evils of an unbalanced ration, for
the ration is always unbalanced if it
does not provide ~bonemaking material.
An acute observer has remarked that
hogs whose feed is deficient in bone
making material are irritable, nervous.
have a disposition to nag one another,
and act just like peevish, irritable peo-
pie, whose nerves are .unstrung and
that have dyspepsia, or, as we say, are
historical. We. do not know whether
there is anything in it or not, but we
are quite sure that a balanced ration,
not merely in flesh formers and fat
formers. but bonemaking material, will
tend to that quiet disposition, that
peace of mind, that contentment with
all things around them, that leads to
laying on of flesh, and that happy dis
position that characteriZes the good
citizen. whether in the city, in the
country, or in the hog yard. While all
things go we'll with the hog inside he
is not much disposed to NEEDLE with
things outside, and whether things go
well or ill with him depends more on
the kind Of food he receives than on
anything else. 1t is when people are
not feeling we'll that we have up
hcavals in politics. panics in business,
and general discomfort and an increase
Of bad citizenship. 1t is about the
same way Ill the hog yard. The hogs
| world is not Il wide one mainly con
nected with eating and drinking and
an occasional roofing, and therefore If
he is given q ration we'll balanced on
it's mineral. it's flesh forming and fat
forming side, he becomes a happy,
prosperous citizen of the farm and a
Observation-Disclosures Farmer.
The Washburn leader. [volume] (Washburn, McLean County, N.D.) 1890-1986, 1896-08-29
pntcutH IyHUcG.


List of patents issued last week to
Northwestern inventors:
Walter T.. Burke. st. Paul. Mimi.
banana crate; William X. Flat. Du-
luth. Mimi. bicycle support; Edward
l.. I'ollett. Duluth. Mimi. tailDrS' meal
sure; Erick Johnson, Seattle. Wash.
milling machine: Thomas kerker, st.
Paul, Mimi. proprlling mcchanis II for
bicycles d. similar machines: Otto G.
Macklatt. st. Iaul. Mimi. fish Sciap"r:
NclS II. Nelson. st. Johns. Mimi. draft
equalizer; John l.. Nichols. ST. Paul.
Mimi. ~perforating or scoring attach
meht for printing machines; August G.
Schacfer and II. c. Gray. st. Paul.
Mimi. drive chain and Chain wheel:
George w. Weber. st. Paul. Mimi. col
lapsablc lunch box; Christensen n
Henderson, Madclia. Mimi. GRADE
MARK wheat flour.
r. d. Merwin. Patent Lawyer. 910
Oil and 912, Pioneer Press Bldg. 81.
Paul Mimi.