Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1896-04-30
A GREAT STRUGGLE.
CONTEST BETWEEN THE LOUIS XVI
AND EARLY VICTORIAN STYLES.
But Sensible Americans win Adapt the
Best Features Only Of Each-some Hand
some Costumes silks. Woods and MO
hairs-PlaId Suits and Hats.
Copyright, 1885. by The Author. j


Just now there seem to be two dis.
tinct styles struggling for the mastery.
One is the Marie Antoinette-Louis XVI
and the other is the early Victoria. Be
tween them there is also style particu-
larly American. That means that our
own modistes are clever enough to adopt
and adapt all the best and least obtru-
sive features Of both tile others and com
bine them. The English mode Just now
wishes to force the tight sleeve and long,
slopiDg shoulders which Qneen Victoria
wore when she was young. The modistes
do not try to oblige as to wear the
hoops and the horrible festooned skirts
and balmorals, for which. ] suppose, we
should be duly thankful. But they have
presented some veriJable monstrosities
in the way Of sleeves.
Some Of these are tight fitting all the
way down, with ungainly puffs at the
elbows. Some Of them have six or seven
narrow rutfies sewed around the elbow
part and as many more at the shoul-
ders. Ugher or more ungraceful things
could not be imagined. Even when some
Of the London sleeves have any fullness
it is SO tackled to the lining that the
sleeve does not bulge out as the others
from over the water do. Some Of these
fit the arm very tightly up to about half
way above the elbow, and then there il
a moderate puff. No new sleeves are
stiffened, though the gigot style Will
prevail without doubt-at least along
until next winter. The Bernhardt sleeve
is wrinkled all the way down, and is
sprung at the wrist and is very long.
The French sleeves are often shirred
and set Oh outside the shoulder seam.
This throws the fullness downward and
is very pleasing Some few Of the most
pronounced costumes have snug sleeves
with fancy caps over them. but the lat-
est importations show about as many
big sleeves ~ ever. No. not quite ~
big, for even the largest Of them are hot
nearly as large as they We're. Bishops
continue in favor for home and for the
light summer materials.
Basques are seen everywhere. Cotton
goods are frequently made with iauuty
basques to wear over white vests or full
blouse fronts, though these arc not AZ
often seen a. tile snug vest buttoning
over q starched shirt front Silks for
swell receptions and other functions
where evening dress is not necessary
are made with these cntaWay basqaes,
with their Louis Seize distinguishing
marks, Of which the satin vest is one.
These vests are sometimes embroidered
in the corners and are as often quite
plain, but in that case the buttons are
large and to represent jewels. One set
had opal centers and brilliants around
them. Another was Of turquoise and
brilliants, OF, To be more precise, imita-
tions Of diamonds. These paste jewels
are very much worn az trimming. They
are noe intended to deceive any one, but
they are showy and brighten up any
costume wonderfully.
There was an extremely rich costume
received last week, showing tile manner
in which these "star buckles, N as they
are called, are employed. This costume
was intended for visiting or for the
promenade" 1t was Of a rich quality Of
brocade Id shades Of dull green, with a
grayish tint over a ground Of ashes of
roses, which is a very soft gray with a
pink tint in it. The flowers We're the
pale purple iris The skirt was cut ia
nine breadths, each laid in a deep
paquin plait OF fold. Up four Of the
seams there was sewed velvet ribbon of
a deep myrtle green two inches wide.
On each Of these four bows, with ends,
were set, and i'll the center Of each was
q strap buckle Of single stones set i'll
circles, around an amethyst enameled
ground. I'D the center Of this was one
stone Of larger size than the others.
There was a Louis Seize cutaway basque
Of the same brocade, with large revers
Of mauve corded silk. The sleeves were
moderate sized gigots The vest was Of
cream satin, thick and rich. This was
double breasted and ornamented BY six
buttons Of amethyst enamel and imita-
tion diamonds Tie vest had pointed
revers, which laid out over the others.
An immense tie made Of silk null,
with three ruffles Of chiffon at each end,
filed i'll the whole front. The sleeves
were very long and open about five
inches. The opening was faced with the