New-York tribune., 1896-12-09
THE SEASON OF POULTRY
THE BEST CHICKENS NOW IN MARKET
FOR HOLIDAY TRADE.

From the earliest history OF the markets the 1ah
months have been recognized the season OF
poultry The chickens Of spring have by this time
attained full growth. while the muscles have not
begun to harden. They now in the meridian OF
perfection and In every way superior to the imma-
ture birds which are broiled during the summer
time.
A good chicken in the present condition OF the
market laws is certainly rara avis. The milk sup
ply OF the city is amply protected. but after years
OF agitation In the legislative bodies OF the city and
State. undrawn poultry is still displayed In the
markets IN a condition which renders it utterly
UNIT for food, If not actually poisonous.
1t has been thus far impossible to obtain such
salutary regulations for the markets OF Ncw-fork
as govern Paris and other parts Of the civilized
world. 1t Is the practice OF scaldng the bird
entras and ALL In order to facilitate removing the
feathers. has been partially done awny with THIS
is because customers have learned the superiority
OF dry picked poultry and no longer be deceived
into purchasing the scaded bird. In spite OF Its
.pumpness. Yet Is still the practice to leave the
entras In the body until the bird Is sold. At this
season OF the year an immense amount OF poultry
OF all kinds is refrigerated 10 meet the demands OF
the spring and carly summer markets. when fresh
killed poultry Is scarce and In poor condition
When II Is remembered that these refrigerated
birds are packed away undrawn and thawed out
months afterward with the foul cniras still In
them some idea be obtained OF the extent CT
this abuse. The Tribune has frequently drawn at
tenton to this matter as proper subject for leg
islation. The most distinguished physicians and
hygirnsts have condemned the practice of the
poultry markets In unequlvocal language. yet so
far nothing has been accomplished
RHODE ISLAND CHICKENS.
There Il some excellent poultry sent TO this
city from Rhode Island. This Il exposed In mar
kct drawn. but Is probably prepared directly
after It comes the city. II Is the best market
poultry there IT, being well fattened and dry
fnt ti.xa ha
alive This Is the best way buy them but 1t
Is difficult to secure the best stock In this man
ner Those In market likely to be poor under
fed old hens
A chicken Is in its finest condition for frcasees
saute dishes and currles when 1t is nine months
old A fowl a year and half old that has been
properly fed Is better for roasting boiling. salads
croqucttes and other made dishes than younger
bird Tho meat IL richer.
The complaint is sometimes made that greater
VARIETY In meats is needed There would be no
reason for such a demand IL the proper care were
taken In our market. II IL In Paris TO
present I'm their choicest condition the various
meats II formerly believed that a row.
frozen was n fowl spoiled. Even AZ the height OF
the poultry season there Is an immense quantity
OF last years stock OF refrigerated poultry offered
for sale. No such poultry has the delicate dis-
tinc'ive favor OF fine chickens. freshly killed
Compare II with "A properly fattened and properly
Killed fowl from a good .ar.nyard. and the dulest
palate Will notice the lack or havor
WHEN TO COOK POULTRY
No chicken or any other bird should be cooked
sooner than forty-eight hours after it is killed
This gives abundance OF time for the muscles 10
relax Franklin Is sometimes quoted as saying
that n bird killed by electricity and cooked NJ once
will be deciously tender Had Franklin been an
expert cook he would have known that any bird
cooked as 1t is killed before the muscles
begin to stn~n. Is always tender. This was the
oFt m chicken
Almost before consciousness had left the bird, IL
was puckcd. slnged AM plunged into the iryihs
kettle There Is prejudice now against 'h's
summary way OF proceeding. and most mousse
keepers prefer 20 have their poultry hung a sur
nc-nt time to become tender
HOW TO PREPARE 1T.
Pluck ard draw the bird as soon as convenient
,f,.r I, ,s killed Rinse II of and lay the gblets
inside o. H. In cold weather the bird must hang
longer than in summer. Some persons leave IL"
feathers I'm It to test It's condition by som'umeS
Il will require hanging for three or fo,r GAYS pe-
fore the muscles are relaxed ehou1" 'o' - ~ W
tender. , , ,o,or, y,
food with IN. variety OF the great markers 10
choose from there Is usually fault with the COOK
well with the anay o, 'h in anv var,
e,y Of ways They ring the charges on plain
frcasee ana roasts The art OF cooking chickens
Win various vegetables and with various sauces 70
lmpar to the delica'' flesh dist,nctVe ,,SS naSs !,
apparently unknown or so s"ldom P'"'"''" -
n ghi n well be unknown
CHICKEN SAITE.
c,,,s chicken. az every horsckceper who has
,,,orded cooking lectures knows. is "A chicken cut
nm and Drowned slowly in = buttered frying-pah'
and afterwari finished by simmering IL III som"
rich sauce This Is simple way OF COOKING 'eh"''
young chickens.
Cn, nm two chickens Weighing together about
three mounds Rinse them on ana wip" th"in' ou'
do M, soak them for "A moment Season each piece
,.ub "a, and pepper. When they are all ready lhy
40 mnny a. you can into very not bu,'er'd Try
inp-p,n Fry them golden brown. hrst on one
side then on the other 1t Will take about h''
r,,,ut,s 10 frv n painful. When all the pieces are
dane Law thom in "A bread brasing Kettle ioni
ann ~ rich brown sauce into the pan IN which me
chickens have been fried and hali cup oi Was hns
cnoked for six minutes; pour this over the chicken
and let It simmer slowly Tor httecn m'"'re. 'h .hn
h,sken simmer fifteen minutes longer. or until II
Instead OF browning chickens in butter. use " Two
t.hIespoonfuls OF the incest sweet oil. When they
are browned throw over them half glass OF Ma
dcra and let them simmer al the pack 9' u" atV -;
Wo,sicn the chickens with cup and nan OF
rhItc stock and add three minced mushrooms ~
I, ali simmer fifteen minutes. cooking very s.taus
anc and Tablespoonful of smoked md boiled tonSuc
cut in dice Let II simmer ten minutes iontci 'u,o
taxed tne in the ,mic OF half lemon and the yoks Of
two with haf cup Of mlEhmn some he
Sa, Woor at The back OF the fire. when yon mix In
IN. eggs not let II boll again ie"t ''c "'.N.u,
W. W rs T., thoroughly and. pour the sauce around
the chicken the platter
TIRBAN OF CHICKEN
A turban OF chicken IL not difficult dish 20 pre-
pare Make cup OF chicken forcrmea'' cnop ''ne
, ,de of the breast OF a raw chicken. pound 1t In
a mortar and add an equal quantity OF fresh bread
soaked In milk a teaspoonful OF melted butter ana
the volk Of an egg Season 1t with salt ana pepper.
MoIsten the forcemeat with Tablespoonful OF
cream or white sauce and rub II through puree
sieve II Is not positively necessary 10 put IL
,hroueh m. purse sieve for this purpose. but II
makes II much nicer by doing so. Add TO the
fnrcement three minced mushrooms ana Il taDie-
ssnoorrui Of boiled smoked tongue cut Into dice
Make a small pyramid Of this forcemeat IN iau ,ne
centre OF n silver gratn dish. Have two young.
tender chickens weighing fbout pound ana
half each Singe them. draw them ana wipe tnem
we'll open them at the back and bone them only