The Cook County herald. [volume] (Grand Marais, Minn.) 1893-1909, 1896-03-28

Tom chair, steamer chair with sailors
ma tress on the floor aud Il mesquite
netting over it. I was Informed that
THIS gorgeous apart ment had been rented
TO another party who had kindly consen-
ted to occupy less commodious quarters
for my accommoda ton.
The apartment was supplied with fresh
reading matter in the form Of a copy Of
the Hawaiian Gazette one month and
two days old. Dingy, dark, musty with
odium fumes, the place seemed q ft.
abode for robbers and cutihroats. The
darkness and dinginess Of the apartment
were strongly suggestive Of pitfalls and
assassina alton, while, as if in mockery Of
the surroundings, some one had pinned
to the wall the motto: Nearer my God,
to Thee. !" The aroma OF the pig sty was
highly favored with the odor Of saddles,
freshly oiled harness, and smoky kero
sene lamp, which had not been cleaned
and trimed more than once in its life
time
At last ventured to lie down on the
bed. The apartment next to mine was
occupied by Celestlals, but for what pnr.
pose I never knew, the sounds issuing
from it being sometimes suggestive Of /.
sausage factory, sometimes Of laundry
dyeing works, or planning mill. This
adjoining apartment was certainly no
larger than my own, but, after nineteen
Chinsmen of all ages had entered it, I
became tired of counting, and sought
peace in sleep. IT.
At last the sausage mill ceased, the
laundry grew quiet, the wheels Of The
plan1ng mill ran more smooth, and the
mosquitoes, having satisfied their wants,
at my expense, / slept until rosy morn;
might have slept longer, had not COW
poked her head in at my only window
and awakened me by an unearthly bawl.
My landlord provided me breakfast
from which Washington Square tramp
would turn with contempt, and then
charged me Deimonico prices for his
Recommendations"
To saddle up and leave Pahala was a
luxury. I changed guides here. Taking
a native boy named Harry with me, I
started on three days journey through
Kona to place called Kailua.
At noon we reached the village of
Waiohinu (sparkling waterl where we
met Mr.. Meinecke, German gentleman,
who has store and coffee plantation.
On learning it was our intention to stop
at the kuhuku ranch, the home of Col.
onel Norris, be assured us that it was
very doubtful if that individual would
entertain me, as he was bitterly opposed
to white men. Ten miles beyond his
ranchs however, was deserted house in
which we had better stay. if Colonel
Norris refused to accommodate us. &
We set out for Kuhuku and reached it
at N. By this time dark clouds OBJ
secured the skies and chilling winds,
sweeping down from snow capped Mauna
Loa, portended a coming storm. The
ranch is small village of houses and
barns enclosed in walls of stone. We
soon came upon Chinaman and Kanaka
sklnning n bullock that had just been
slam, while standing near them with a
long stick in his hand was an old man
whose tall form was slightly bent, and
his hair and beard sellowish white.
His eyes we're sunken and sinister, and
there was "never-smiled ex-
! preston on his face. ~. b.
us this Colonel Norris?" I asked, ap-
preaching him and extending my hand.
He made no answer aud only looked at
me. I then remembered the colonel
sometimes feigned deafness, so I wrote
Ion card, asking: >a -. r.
/ "Can myself and guide stay at your
ranch?'
no." he answered, while his eyes
flashed with fire. '.You are mission
airy, a white man, and annexationist,"
Il am neither; I am an author" I
answered.
You can't deceive me-" he cried,
striking his stick on the ground. '.You
are preacher and missionary, a white
man, opposed to royalty and in favor of
annexation. You stole all the land of
the natives
tried to assure him that had never
stolen an inch of Hawaiian soil save what
chung to my boots, that was not mis-
sionary, and being an American citizen,
had no interest in their political wrangle
over annexation, or the queen. But he
was obdarate. in vain Iappealed to his
humanity, to the fact that he was white
man himself, that he had $4,000 acres Of
the natives land, more than all the mis-
sionaries combined, yet it was no uss. 7
had to GO 1,
For ten miles our course lay across the
black lava flow of 1887. This flow is
black as charcoal and hard as flint, with
sharp bristling points on every square
foot, on which not a vestige of vegeLation
can be found. The blackness is relieved
Ionly by the white bleaching bones OF