davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-02-02

and matrons of the court we're accustomed
upon retiring for the night to carefully tie
up their heads in great strips OF white
cloth in order that they might not have TO
undergo the task of hairdressing each day.
Perfumed snuff was habitually used by
Prince de Conde, and it was in this noble
mans presence that the Marechale d'Aumoat
composed the celebrated powder which made
her famous and is still known under the
name of 'poudre a la Marechale"
Louis XV.'s court was indeed the hey
day OF perfumes. To such an extent was
the art of seeming the person carried tina;
it was part Of the imperial programme each
day to name the particular odor to be
adopted by the courtiers and great ladies',
in order that mixture of scents might not
result. The revolution killed. of course.
this gentle art, but under the influence Of
Josephine, it was given a fresh impetus i'll
Directory days, for the Empress creole ori-
gin and temperament made her jealousy
and passionately devoted to every sweet
cdor that could be devised.
The frs perfume with alcohol for its
base was the noted "eau de la refine de
Hongrie." A trife later Was invented the
eau de cologne. and ever since the making
of perfumes has been an important part in
the commerce of the world. Chemistry has
advanced so far that scents can be made
without flowers quite as well as with them,
The herald., 1896-02-02

form of birds and they were burned at ban
quecs. No description of their compost
tion has come down through the ages, but
the supposition is to-day that they were
very much the same as the "seraglfo pas
TILES which street venders, disguised as
Turks. sell on the highways of the conti-
mental capitals.
Charles V. of France had among his most
treasured possessions, as is well known
hollow golden pomegranate to hold his per-
fumes. Louis XVI. of France was given by
the Queen of Sicily a rosary of musk. Odor-
Gus chaplets were quite the fashion in
those days, and they exist even now in
some parts of Spain and in some quarters
of the Orient.
In 1920 or tne1eaoouts the age OF powder
and cosmetics began and the use of per-
fumes became widely spread. every courtier
of every kingdom having his pet scent. 1t
was Catherine de Medicis, "the bourgeose
Florentine,' as she was known at that day,
who brought perfumes to their greatest
popularity and their highest art. To ac-
\ compish this she imported from Italy the
chief scentmaker of the world. Rene lie
Florontine, set him up in a shop at the
Pont all Change and constituted herself his
patron making him the perfumer Of the
court. Rene was chiefly celebrated for
his perfumed gloves and there is Il strange
romance hanging over his memory which
tells that. in addition to the science of
odors. he had the art of poisoning at the
ends of his skilled fingers, and was finally
accused of having encompassed the death
6 the mother of Henry W
The or. that Catherine de Medicis had
placed upon its feet grew and expanded
until. during the reign of Louis XIV. Ver-
saiiles was known through the world as
the perfumed court" century and i
half before that powdered heads had come
in, and this custom became so universal that
1PPOpSt
greatest mark of sorrow was to go un-
powdered. The powder used was OF starch
and it seldom happened that it Was left
unperfumed. So great. during it's popu-
larity, was the smount Of labor required to
J construct woman's coiffure that the maids
The herald., 1896-02-02
AN IDEAL.

What should woman be?
At the first all leal and truet
When the song OF love sing two.
What should woman be
When her love is pledged to theef
All purity.
What should woman he
When the two to one have grown;
When each heart has found its ownl
What should a woman be
When her life Is linked to thee?
Sincerity.
What should a woman be?
tStill more love the angels bring;
Still the song of love they sing.)
What should woman be
When the song of love sing thresf
Maternity. D..
SO should woman be;
And whatever may befail
Let the song OF love sing all,
So should a woman be:
So, love. am / to thee
Fidelity. T-~'--
The herald., 1896-02-02
THE HISHOP SLEEVE.
1t Is Put Into the ArmhOlc With ST.
Rows OF Shirriug.

While runners float i'll the air as to the
possible narrowing of sleeves. the bishop
sleeve has come in by the side door with
no one to announce it.
A few outer Jackets were first brought
out with the sleeve cut in this style; few
more weeks and then the velves-coated wo-
men mad adopted it. Now the house podices
of heavy figured satin have the full, becom-
ing sleeve 20 the wrist.
There are few women who cannot afford
to wear sleeve SO made. The slender arm
looks larger and the stout one Is hidden.
Very little stiffening is placed in them, and
the sleeve dropping from it toward the ell
bow.
Do YOU know how the new sleeves OF
all patterns are put into the armhole? They
have four or six rows of shirring to hold
the fulness.
The plan is far more attractive than the
pleats to which we clung so fondly not
longer than few months ago.
The herald., 1896-02-02
SuachteI Lnce.

While dilating on the subject OF trimming
blouges, i might mention that the new Plauen
epachtel lace with India null ground makes
excellent garniture. Very little is as yet seen
of this computation. but the delicate motifs l
saw in laces, smooth edged insertings and
bands pointed on both edges. won my high
attention of dealers and manufacturers The
lace can readily be worked into yoke volant,
the inserting is well adapted for the long and
the bands are excellent for chemlsettes blends,
belts and collars. These null spachtals are also
The herald., 1896-02-02
shining Finger TipS.

Polishing the finger nails until they resen-
BILE an advertisement for stove or silver polish
ss a crime against good taste. 1t ranks with
the wearing of diamond earrings to market and
other barbarities. The finger nails need suf-
fcient rubbing with the chamois brush after
he hands have been washed to revive them
from the dinginess impaired by water. But
The rhinestone-lhe glow which was the pride
nj the ell-manicured few years ago is con-
SHARED atrocious now. The use of paste and OF
cojoring matter to increase the luster is ut
terly abolished.
The herald., 1896-02-02
The Cycle In England.

The clever English girl, who wishes to go
to dinner party or dance and does not own
that luxury, a carriage, mounts her wheel. in
wheeling costume, her evening dress neatly
folded up in box or bag being secured to the
bicycle in some ingenious way, and off my
lady goes, with her father or her brother as an
escort, and upon her arrival at the scene OF
festivities she slips into her gown as easily
as yOu please
The herald., 1896-02-02
Soft White Null.

thoroughly chic appearance is impaired to
the otherwise simple white batiste blouse by
trimming 1t with white and butter colored
,alenciennes laces and white insertngs. This
effect is enhanced by adding to the blouse
revers of hollow embroidered India null. which
is the very latest novelty.
By the way, France employs this fabric
largely as mousselne des Indies ground
for laces embroidery and plaitings for collars.
fichus. etc.
These India mulls differ from the ordinary
known qualities by their supple. finish. Whom
to be used for bouses. 1t receives an elastic
finish especially when embroidered with hol-
low effects to be used for revers These revers
are made go that they can be taken of.
Colored chiffons are used for SILK blouses.
The herald., 1896-02-02
Received "A French Medal.

Tho heroic act of Miss Emma c.. S:ckles. a
young American girl, has brought her geld
medal and position on the roll or nor honor oi
La Savateur Society of France. In 1886 MISS
Sickles, who was teacher at the Pine Ridge
Indian Agency. entered the Indian camp alone
and succeeded in persuading the angry chleis
to consent to peace with General Miles sol,
States Government appointed Miss Slckles
Commissioner in. charge of the indian ex-
hibit at the Columbian Exposition.
The herald., 1896-02-02

and al much less. expense Still. however.
in Roumania and in Asia Minor the world
famed altar or roses continues to be made,
a liter approximately quarI) costing 1905
francs (S600) at Constantinople; at retail, IN
this country, the cost is nearly $500
quart. There is an imitation of this oS-
eence in a distillation from the geranium
that lis cultivated in immense fields in Al.
geria but it's spuriousness can be easily de-
tected.
The herald., 1896-02-02
Not theirs the knowledge that is Guilt a,
An OId NcvSrnner1yo.,nn.

Miss Frances Power Cobbe, who has just
celebrated her seventy-third birthday. was the
first woman to do regular office work on the
editorial staff of a London daily. When the
Echo was first started Miss Cobbe attended
every other day to write leaders and notes.
generally on social subjects. She was known
as an author long before she journalist.
1t is now over forty years ago since she called
at Longmans and asked them to issue her
book on Kantian ethics. Mr.. Longman at first
smiled ncredulousy at the idea of such a
work from young lady. but. after listening
to his visitor, said: Very well. l will publish
your book"
The herald., 1896-02-02
A Dainty Hook Cover.

A novelty that is both attractive and use1ui
is an adjustable book cover of burnt leather,
bearing a simple design. accompanied by the
suggestive words. "A book TO beguile the
time" BY means of two strips, tackled inside
the cover. any medium-size book may !, be
slipped inside and its cleanliness ana oalntl-
ness preserved while reading it. y bone paper
cutter, tucked in little pocket. is suitable
The herald., 1896-02-02

ing l saw two girl cyclists on the platform OF
a country station One wore short skirt, the
other knckerbockers. The contrast was re-
markable the latter looking conspicuous and
far from graceful. She could not even walk
about without initiating masculine swagger
and thrusting her hands in her pockets
The herald., 1896-02-02
A Feminine wire-PuIIer.

Thirty years of expert work as telegraph
operator is the record of Mrs. Fannie M.
Merryfeld. For the last twelve years Mrs.
Merryfeld has been in Cheyenne. holding The
position of night wire chief. and having in
charge eight duplex and two quad sets. be-
sides the Wheatstone repeaters and Morse re-
Seaters.
The herald., 1896-02-02
A CycIist COsfum e.

In regard to the much discussed question OF
dress, skirt long enough to reach six or
seven inches below the knees, this being short
enough to render pedang easy, seems TO find
many advocates Few people are really de-
cided about knickerbockers. The other morn
The herald., 1896-02-02
Jet AppIigues.

Not in years have. the beautiful Jet garni-
! tures been as varied ard attractive as they
| are this season.. They range from the narrow
glittering gimp or simple cord to the most
elaborate and elegant applique bands and
| suecial pieces for bodice, skirt and wrap.
The herald., 1896-02-02

Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson will hereafter
live in San Francisco, her former home:
She has gone, accompanied by her son and
daughter for a brief visit TO Samoa, in order
to arrange the affairs Of the deceased novelist.
The herald., 1896-02-02

Quite brisk demand exists for pale cU1ored
cashmere, foule and crepe blouses. Some very
muti-colored crepe lisse embroidery and again
bedecked with paillettes.
The herald., 1896-02-02

Cunso-Mrs. barley has presented her
husband with twins.
Cawker-Those are duplicate presents
which he will have to keep.
The herald., 1896-02-02

Tacoma claims that the output of its lum-
her mills will be fully 115, 000. 600 feet this
year. or more than that of any other point on
the Pacific Coast.
The herald., 1896-02-02
The AnGelus.
10 peasants. homeward from the fields Of

Two peasants. homeward from the fields Of
toll
Hear holy music in their hasty quest;
Their longings leave the sorrows of the soil,
And sweety wander IN the wales OF rest.
Not theirs the knowledge that is Guilt and
Grief;
Not theirs the Doubt that drives their God
away;
Behold In trustfulness of fond Belief
They bow their heads and lift their hearts to
pray!
Freeman E. Miller in the New Bohemian.
The herald., 1896-02-02

would not she have been counted Just as
addressed had she appeared in the same
rig on Fifth avenue?
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
John DAILY MAY RECOVER.
NOBODY ELSE BLAMED FOR THE DEATH
OF JOHN HALL ON THE ELEVATED
RAILROAD

John DAILY OF No POI West Twenteth-st. whose
drunken violence led to the loss OF his own arm ana
tho killing OF John Hall. the ticket-chopper' AT tho
elevated railroad station at Eghth-ave. ana ohe-
bundred-a nd thirty -nfthst. on Tuesday evening,
u,as suffering greatly at the Manhattan Hospitai
Yesterday After an operation. the surgeons saiu'
ne was in fair way 10 recovery. but ne ieit pauiy
about the loss of his and still worse about the
death of the tcket-chopper who had tried TO save
him from injury. BY permission OF coroner the
body OF John Hall removed from the ponce
station in West One-hundred- and-twenty-lith-s'
n ar undertaker's shop. 1t was said that inc Man.
haitian Elevated Railway Company would pay the
funeral expenses
Alexander Ieaton and Henry Maney, the con-
auctor and engineer of the elevated railroad train
nat ran over Hall and Daily were arraigned Defore
Mspistrate Brann in the Harlem court ana COM
r,,tted 70 the custody OF the Coroner Heaton SAID
no WAS on the first OF the train when the acci-
don, bappened and knew nothing about H. Nancy
said that he first saw the men scuihne al t'le euso
sun 80 30 Ma form only a dozen feet away from him
"a mai as they fell from tho platform 70 the track
81 Ala his hest 10 stop the train. but the distance
~ ms ZOO short AS 1t was he stopped the tran III
Wtance Of fifteen feet, but still not quickly enough
90 nraven, the men from being run over
roroner Uoeber discharged Heaton anu .naney.
rhe trainmaster Eugene A. Wise, toid the C9'vlei
~, he had investigated the accident, anu .'au
tnnnd that the conductor and engineer were MOI ~
~ mo
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
THE 9TH REGIMENT REVIEW.

The annual muster and inspection OF the s'h nee
iment took place last night in the armory IN west
twenty sixth-st. Inspector-General McLewee' &C
companied by Major Lee. made the Inspection inc
spoke highly OF the showing Oh '"'
regiment. -.
While the regiment being inspected the vet
Grams of the regiment and the old soldiers VINO
fought under it's nag when 1t was the SD New
York Volunteers celebrating with dinner az
Ciark's restaurant the th!rty-ffth anniversary OF
the departure OF the regiment for the seat OF war
in 1861 Dinner was served to about 100 Among the
c. Wehrlm, Colonel H Weed Colonel l + 3 Green een.
u,ap and CAPTAIN Hursey. Colonel Seward and sev-
nr a1 ~ the oficers OF the 9th arrived late.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
THEY FAVOR MKINLEY.

An enthusiastic meeting of the Mckinley League
Of the XVIIth Assembly District was held last night
at No 1872 Ninth-ave A drum corps sgnailed the
fact of the meeting to the entire west Side OF the
city and in response 10 the joyful summons stanch
Renubllcans rocked from all quarters filling the
meeting place to overlooking. c. F. Moore, pres-
dent OF the district organization OF the League,
presided and among the speakers were Dr. f. r.
Duffy and Colonel W. C. Plimmer. of North Dakota
The following resolutions were adopted:
Since the delegates from the N!Nth Congress
District were elected and instructed for Mr. Morton
the sentiment for Mckinley has become 50 over
wheming and 1t has become so plain that the
ton therefore be IL -, ,,x,,,
Resolved. That we. the members OF me Mcklniey
meeting assembled do hereby request the delegates
from the XIVth Congress District.-emuei r.
nUiag and Abraham Gruber-to vote for Mr.. Nc
Ein1ev and 10 use all honorable methods to secure
his nomination: and furthermore De IL
Resolved That a copy Of these resolutions be sent
70 Mr. Mckinley, Mr. Quigg and Mr. Gruber.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
,,,,c,,,. DEMOCRATS FOR SILVER.

wash,neton. May q SpecaD.-From ngures re-
..,od nv Representative Otey, or the Lyhchou's
D,str,ct who Is at once the chairman OF the Deno
NC state Committee OF Virginia and the i~auer
80 .he free-siIyer coinage faction OF the Democratic
nartv in that State II appears that the souhu-ho'eS
n on will have only a meagre representation IN inc
stanton Convention on June a. MI otey. VINO
will GO TO Lynchburg tomorrow 10 take part !" 'o
election for delegates in his home county mas pre-
nared table showing the results OF the canvas.
80 o. Nav 2s II is as follows: The NUMBER OF
counties cities and towns in the state Is no. oi
which 100 have already elected delegates 10 the
Staunton Convention The total number OF ueie-
oates IN the convention will be 1893 or THIS NUM-
her 125l have been elected. The number or SILVER
0eIegates so far elected is loO2 gold delegates 20.
un,nstructed. ST. OF the 2ss delegates to be elected
Mr. Otey estimates that the silver faction VIII get
I and the gold faction lo3 This vii ma 9ze yn
Stanton Convention stand l,H for silver SU LOT
SoId and ~ unclassifed. Five counties nave ~ -
a. eiven a solid yote-siXtyone deegates-io soo ois
a"ar+Snine counties have given soma Vole-ooiio
6aiegates-fOr silver; twenty-six counties nave III
v,de3N2lS for gold and 1856 for silver III,
The eilyer managers say that the unit ruiz WIN
~. adoned nj Stanton and that the soiid ueieSa-
H. 81 the State TO Chicago Will be Tor silver n9
TnntIon NJ the unit rule Will be vigorously oppoSeu
hv he gold men and its enforcement IL eApec'eu "
rsssn liz IN n serious breach in the party.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
GOLD DEMOCRATS NOT WANTED.
FREE SILVER WING OF THE PARTY IN INDIANA
DIsTRt'sTs ITS LEADERS

u-prr SILVER WING OF THE PARTY IN INDIANA
DrsTRusTs IT'S LEADERS.
Indianapolis May 1.-THE Democratic free
,t,.or conference was held yesterday at the State
t,ous. with about one hundred members OF the
Marty present The important action OF the gath
erine was the adoption OF resolution calling for
an exclamation OF his position from Chairman
Sterling X Holt Of tho State Committee This
resoIution was offered by Judge McNutt OF the With
Dls,rict and was passed by reclamation. Judge
NcNutt prefaced the resolution by a little talk, In
which he declared that 30 cent OF the Democracy
NJ Indiana were for free silver. and 1t was known
that Chairman Holt was for the gold standard and
had entered into tho sound money conference held
here Saturday night. He was. therefore. out OF
harmony with the party and ought TO step down
and out.
Mr. Holt will probably not resign until after the
STATE Convention has been held. In case free
silver blank appears In the platform he may volin-
tarily retire.
The resolution was followed by offered by j. l.
Strouse of Rockville demanding the resignation
OF s T. Sheerin, Of Logansport, "a a member OF the
National Committee from Indiana, on the same
ground II did not carry. however. largely because
sh.erln has been 80 active in pushing the Matthews
Presidnntial boom The conference listened to re-
norts from each district, and all except the Win
reported that free silver would win In the deiega-
,ions 10 the state Convention Judge Buskrk. who
taknd for the With District, which included Ind
ananolis said he thought they would probably be
beaten there.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
A RIVER AND HARBOR VETO LIKELY.
THE PRESIDENT SAID TO BE WORKING NOW o!

A RIVER AND HARBOR VETO LIKELY.
THE PRESIDENT SAID TO BE WORKING NOW ON
MESSAGE.
Washington May n (SpeciaD-'"The STAR says
this evening: ut Is open secret that the Presi-
dent has fully decided to veto the River and Harbor
Appropriation bill. and that he is even now engaged
In the preparation of a message returning the Dill
10 Congress with a full statement OF his objections
to It's becoming law. The officials Of the War
Department. including the officers OF the Corps OF
Engineers have been called upon 10 furnish a mass
Of data for the Presidents information on the sub
iect There is a possibility that the veto message
may be sent in before the close Of the present week.
bun II not II will undoubtedly In early next week
The constitutional time limit in which this measure
may be returned will expire next Wednesday even
ing but it Is not believed that the President VIII
need more than few days longer lie is saio 10
favor an early adjournment. and is not liable 10 90
ANYTHING to interfere with that result 1t Is under
stood that he bases his objection to the River ana
Harbor bill on the general ground that the Govern
ment finances do not warrant such expenditures 40
Il carries regardless Of the merits or the WORKS ~
Is also asserted that he holds that the measure car
r1es TO dangerous extreme the plan OF committing
the Government to large expenditures through con-
tinuous contracts.
members OF the Senate and House interested IN
the bill are certain that the bill can be promptly
passed over a veto The time consumed IN tiie MAJ
ter II It becomes necessary to pass the Dill over
Veto will depend upon whether there IS any ns
said In the veto message which will compel congress
TO make defence OF It's action. The accep tsa
theory is that the veto. II II comes, WIZ tate Of
the Treasury will warrant II this proposio oica 81
made in veto message 1t VIII leaa 10 oil he
treated as an Acknowledgement that the statement OF
tha President in his annual message ana OF Nai
Isle in his report that the Treasury was no.
troubled by a deficiency OF revenue. was mlseau ,
that revenue legislation was not what was neeueu
bars the President from plea OF lack OF O. ,or
Of the Republicans correct. In spite OF ms II, Ior
80 decIaratIons 10 the contrary. There VIII pe
d 1ittinn on the part OF Republicans TO make the
moet 81 This 10 show the country that tar1r reg
islation is what is most needed 10 rehe'e '"e
ury."
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28

- This NJ course II no news TO veteran hsher-
men who clean their own hsh' pu' '"e'e -
.v IN everything The best way to overcome o' proven"
..-,a 70 conquer ncipient rheumatism or kinney "''
n. and TO relieve dyspepsia bousness' co"S'P'''''
.. IL N begin without delay. and to pursue
steadily and regularly. the use OF hoS'e''e'
ters a standard medicine indorsed oy meu''' "
where 1t strengthens the system ana improves ~ ~
lite and sleep Of those who employ 1t as res'o "
accomplishes health-givins results when ia"'' "'
,bo.. previously unacquanted with It's emcae'
Of all sorts testify In It's behalf It 10 the ieA'"S
this era,
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-05-28
vxprCrED TO INDORsE CARLISLE.

Washington May q (speciaD. -Notwi'hs'anuihs
the unexpected strength shown by the iree-sn,e
coinage wing of the Democratic party IN heh'uchy
in the elections now In progress for Delegates u Wv.
State Convention. Representative 'ioC' "a
go. u,,nd r,onev leaders here still express conf
A. 80. IN their ability to hold the State In line win
the Administrators financial policy. Mr. McCreary
said to-day before starting for Kentucky 10 TAKE
part in the nsnt Fro nave these and
What know will say that 1t looks 10 me IN son md
State Convention the Sd VIII ,o deG presdent
Represcntative Berry will also 90 10 IN, go
take hand in the fight against free-shVtec cratarv
He also strongly favors the nomination VI
Carlisle for the Presidency.