Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-06-20
COACHING to- NIAGARA.
Account of q Trip as Viewed From
the Top of n Stage.

Account of a Trip as Viewed From
the Top Ofoa Stage.
Corr. of the Buffalo News,
1 was fortunate. during my recent visit
to Buffalo, to be invited to take a trip on
the road coach. Red Jacket running daily
until August 1 between Buffalo and Mag
ara Falls, on the Canadian side of the
river. So marvellous was the whole enter
tainment that I felt the world outside of
Buffalo should know of this rare opportu-
nifty.
We left the Genesee Hotel at prompt 9:45
on the beautiful coach with which Brew
ster took the first prize at the Columbian
exposition, and which ran later as the
Vivid between New York and Philadelphia.
The guard, a typical Englishman, blew the
first tones of IF you want to know the
time ask a policeman" and we started
down GeneSee street.
The ferry crosses to Fort Erie. just be-
low the site of the old fort, which played
so conspicuous part in the war OF ISL,
and beautiful view Of the green, rushing
river is obtained, from the point where 1t
receives all the waters of the great lakes,
and Itself becomes a river, down past the
city, along the grassy slopes of the Amer
lean and Canadian shores. under the great
International bridge which spans It's broad
expanse to where Grand Island divides its
waters and lies an emerald on its bosom.
The landing made, We sped away. Close
to the rivers edge the road took US, and.
with the enterprise and go of the Amer
leans left behind, we found ourselves in
the quiet, sleepy dullness of the Canadian
country.
"Annie Laurie" notified the first relay.
long in advance of our approach, so that
not more than two minutes were consumed
In taking out our four horses and putting
in the four fresh ones
Our second relay awaited at Black
Creek, near the spot where, seventy years
ago. the one relay was made for the over
land route from Lake Ontario to Lake Erie.
The old lady stands at the gate today to
see the coach go by, reminiscing over the
days when child Of five years she
watched the overland stage. Across the
river lay Grand Island, lined with its
charming summer residences and pleasure
resorts, its slopes green to the waters
edge, and its trees towering in places in
primeval forest. Still below came into view
Navy Island, which also played a part in
the war Of 1872 and again in the patriots
war. Turning from the river, We drove
along Chippewa creek, passing many fine
residences. the relics of former grandeur.
and SO into the village of Chippawa, where
our third relay awaited us.
Leaving Chippawa, we bowled along the
main road. always with the shadow of Gen.
Scott and the patriots war upon u.s. till we
approached the vicinity of the Convent of
the Loretto, when, 10! such a view as
may not find in all the world besides The
broad river in its full magnificence lay be-
fore us. the quiet waters rushing into the
mad frenzy Of the rapids. and whirlng,
swirling and leaping into the air as foun-
tains, or dashing in miniature cascades
over the hidden rock, till engulfed in the
lower shore and American falls. they We're
lost in the gulf below, whose depth we
could not pierce.
l tried to look credulous when the story
was told that at this very point, some fifty
years ago, young girl had walked out
with her cousin on almost dry rocks. My
expression must have betrayed my
thoughts, for the story-teler, Buffalonan
well up on local history, added that the
young girl. then Miss Cornelia Ensign, now
lives in Buffalo. and if l didn't believe the
story he d take me to see its heroine when
we returned. With such proof positive, /
had to believe. though the raging waters
In front of me roared contradiction. The
sto"y-teller added that strong wind up
the river and an ice blockade near Buffalo
had made Miss Ensign's walk possible He
also added that Miss Ensign and her escort
had to scurry back for their lives as the
waters already began to resume their flow
and that in some places the young woman
had to jump streams, which. if not spurred
by desperation, she would have judged i'm
possible to get across
10 one who had never seen the falls be-
fore no finer first view could possibly be
given; 1t is simply beyond the Imagination
to picture, nor could l think the drive held
anything more for US; and yet, as we drove
on. and turned sharply under the Michi-
gan Central railroad track and descended
the gully leading to Dufferin Park there was
framed In, seemingly for our special ben
eft. such a picture of Goat Island and the
fall over the Cave of the Winds that |
felt no one had seen the falls who had not
enjoyed just that view. But the coach does
not stop for views, and on we went till
there seemed no way out except over the
precfpice, when sudden turn to the left
brought us into the Park road and in full
view of the falls the gorge, the thread that
spanned that gorge, which we were told we
We're to cross.
The horses seemed to enjoy their road as
we enjoyed our views and in less time than
1t takes to tell we had passed the Clifton
House and were on the Suspension bridge
The ordinary carriage is protected by a
ballustrade eon this bridge, but one seated
on the top of this extraordinary coach is
above and beyond all consciousness but
that of being In mid-air, with such a view
may not be duplica ted
l must confess that 1 was thrilled with
something besides admiration for the
sublime view all about me. and 1 sympa-
thlZed with the timid man, who asked the
guard II the coach might not be stopped
for moment while he jumped down. He
was persuaded to stay where he was, how
ever, and tried to appear jocular. He
American bank. and as the guard footed
joyously. Comm Thro' the Rye the timid
man exclaimed: That's the way l feel,
only blow louder, can't you Lamb?''
Our course lay through Prospect Park.
which overlooks the American falls. Be
fore this became state property it was
owned by the Porter family. AS the same
family owned Goat Island, young wo-
man member of It, while visiting in Eng
land, was able to answer a native who
asked her if she had ever seen Niagara
Fails: Have l seen Niagara Falls? Why.
/ own them"
Arrived at the Cataract House. orr two
hours and half went quickly enough. and
promptly at $3.50 we started homeward.
The only variation in the return route is
the trip through the Dufferln Islands.
WOman's Position in Pagan T1me.
Prof. Boyesen in the Forum