The morning times., 1896-08-09
ARTISTS DESIGN GOWNS
Women Pay Literally for Ar
tiStic Modes.
SOME OF THE DESIGNERS
Portrait Painters Must Know
Millinery in Order. to rlaks
Fetching Lines,

and signing about for years. That is, fol-
lowing the advice of an artist as to the
tones Ind tints and styles with which She
adorns her person. Every woman has in
her complexion, eyes and hair distinct
''color scheme and the portrait painters
her own palette"
There is invariably some one prominent
color tone, as well as a dominant form,
says writer in the New York Advertiser,
which a woman should accept as the basic
principle or suggestion for every dress, hat
or wrap with which she adorns herself.
And IL she is unable to discoverit by intui-
ton, she should consult an authority on the
subject.
Artists are meeting this new demand In
the most cordial spirit, and are willing to
work out individual schemes OF dress for
their patrons. The result of such labors is
"coior card" on which every varying
tint is painted, with sketches or photo
graphs, embodying the general type of
costume suited to the woman who consults
them.
The subject earns that her dominant tone
is yellow, blue'or pink, as the case may be,
and, while she may modify or intensity the
color, she can never afford to ignore or in
fringe upon its dominance.
PAY is LIBERAL.
Women pay literally to secure such ad-
vice, especially from portrait painters, and
follow the direction as closely as they would
q PHYSICIANS prescription. The original
card and sketches are usually pinned on the
dressing table, where they can be scanned
several times a day; copies are sent to the
modiste, who is never permitted to deviate
from the rules laid down. The really wise
woman carries with her a third edition for
reference on shopping tours to avoid being
beguiled into buying exquisite novelties
merely because they appeal to her love Of
the beautiful.
Ii requires no little moral courage for a
woman with q keen love OF artistic COM
-binalions to live up to her color card. She
aust sacrifice many bargain, shut her
eyes TO hornets and hats that are poems
in fact, exercise as much self-denial as
though she were dieting TO reduce her
weight OF to improve her complexion.
Frank Fowler, whose skill as a portrait
painter is shown to the best advantage in
his recently finished portrait of Archbishop
Corrigan. of New York, withits be wildering
luxury of lace, velvet and Jewels, is not;--
bic authority on color.
THE question of won.an's dress is not
an insignificant one" he remarked, when
approached on the subject, land l know
that artists of note would be perfectly will
ing to give their advice upon q matter Of
Sucl, real n rfiStif1 i'm
Mr. Fowler believes there are artistic pos
sibilities in the most modern fashions, and
especially admires the full, soft sleeves
dropping from the shoulder, the lavish
folds in the skirts and the richly colored
materials now in vogue.
COLOR AND FORM.
Mr.. Biashfield, the mural painter who has
wrought out So many beautiful effects by
the use of the female figure in his deco
rative work, said recently, speaking on the
subject: 1T would be difficult to say which
a woman should study ore carefully, color
or form; both are so completely and essen
TALLY tire handmaidens oftaste. A woman
may repeat her color scheme in every gar
ment She wears, and yet by ignoring form
destroy harmonious effect
l. Wells Champney, who has not only
painted some of the most beautiful women
in America, but has copied in pastels all
the famous court beauties OF France and
England, believes that it is the province Of
the artist to dictate in matters of taste
1T is not enough, Mr.. Champney re-
marked. ..that a woman should understand
the meaning of every shade of color to te
found in her .paIlette' She should bs
eaually familiar with the.b,auty lines OF
the figure, which can be either brought out
or entirely hidden by the style of gar
ment
"Periods of artistic dressing" Observed
Mr. Chomppey. (which have occurred in
history ar intervals as the Greek the En-
pire and the venetian. are all practical il
Illustrations of satisfactory results to be
ohtaino, from clothes artisticauv con-
siderad
..Mme soobie- daughter of Iouis XIV.
whose portrait was done in I742 by Nat
tier. the court paipter. is an example OF
the extent IN which costume. however rich
and elaborate. NAV be made subservient
revealing and actually Frightening, the
beauty of the wearer.
..The now famous portrait of Nine Reca-
m;er. in her simple. graceful Empire gown.
10 another illustration Of The excellent Of.
rec,s tn he gained bv following the guidance
of nature in all matters. whether of form
or color
Mr.. Mupzig has painted some lovely por-
traits OF women whom he terms cool
hlondes y women with dim gold bair. dead
white skins. and whose ewes are gray with
doom shadows One of This tyre was Miss
Amy Rend. whom he rain,ed with the up-
,i,ted stirt nj her r,ock filled with roses
IIoo,,,,, ,,a nortr;,, :. i. "a, pe,u.ios ~