New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-11-08
WORN IN PARIS.
FASHIONS IN FURs- SOME WINTER
GowNs-IMPOssIBILI IN THE
SHAPE OF HATS AND THE
FLOWERS ADJOINING THEM.

as good investment" thinking that the large sum
Of money expended winter means the providing
o. outside wrap for many seasons to come? II
any does. It is certainly misplaced economy. for
lavish use Of furs Is, more than investments In da-
monds and laces the prerogative Of a large purse.
II Is possible that fashions have changed in this re-
spect and that some years ago even modish women
the same fur wrap unaltered from season TO
season. 1t is quite impossible now. The styles in
furs change as rapidly do those Of chiffons Take
that conservative garment the sealskn Jacket which,
perhaps was purchased less than year ago. Lo! to-
day the sleeves large the short skirt possesses
too many godets. and the garment may perchance De
breasted, while all upo-date jackets fasten on
side II may be made over Of course, but that IS
both an expensive and vexing process. 1t Is so hard
believe the furrier quite honest when In place Oh
the old-styed but apparently voluminous garment
sent him he big BILL tiny IL fashionable.
little wrap. and a few impossible bits Of fur
Some fur places have adopted the rule OF sending
back with the garment Its exact pattern IN crno'
line One OF the reliable places says that as loath as
they are to give away their patterns they founu
this rue necessary a few years ago when clients
were sending them long close capes to be converted
into modish garments. The result the short many
godeed little col" to the professional eye rare
y represented the amount OF fur sent. Nowhowever'
the owners Of valuable fur garments seem to have
the advantage for the full shoulder cape OF season
or two ago makes the incest kind Of fitted Figaro
to-day collar and ALL and with velvet sleeves forms
pretty garment with little expense beyond the
making.
Pnrisians make a skating costume an excuse FOR
even more fancful arrangements of fur than are
permitted walking costume. even though most
OF the skating Is done indoors. These often con-
thin two or even three kinds Of fur, and ermne
vest in dark fur jacket is the smartes thing pos
sible A loose sacque of seal has collar ana YOKE
OF ermlne and band Of sable outlining the yoke ana
finishing the top Of the collar. This combination IS
by no means extraordinary. Mouftion is often USED
to edge caracue seal garments that possibly have
yoke or vest of third fur. Moufhcn Is mucn useu
10 trim velvet capes long. rather close cape OF
green velvet is embroidered in gold and JETS ana
has a lining of rich yellow hrocade. Cohar anu
yoke are Of this soft fluffy gray fur
uppose you are using mouion In America, ana
that It Is called by the same rame. The hair IL
exceedingly fine and thick and is light gray IN
color white almost the roots with spots OF black
over tho surface. 1t sprang into popularity last
season. and Is being even more used now. IL Is not
a. expensive as either chinchia or the American
sable but does not wear so well. inc Ai'ei ,o"'.
or Canadian sable. by the way. Is about thiro
more expensive in France than 1t is In America
The description Of some garments in detail sug-
gests a novel cape of seal brown velvet trimmed
with three rows of brownlsh lace. arranged In
dounc.s headed by rows Of sable Above these
md na ssIng over the shoulders Is founce OF vel
vet covered by of lace. also headed oy me "a
fur This grows deeper and curves DOWN III VIC
back suggesting a hood. and stands up III rui''e
on the shoulders. The effect is novel ana pretty
short cape Of green velvet Is eiapoIateiy EN-
broiderod and reaches to the elbows makes
,rcr. bu, &c slashed over the arms to the snoul-
dars A rufie Of black caracule makes the collar
extends down the fronts OF the garment anu III
about t. including the slashirgs. The velvet part
NJ the cape Is snug the fur rufes making the iui-
ness. , .~,-.
ming The side seams ornamented by oouo'o
| rows OF inch-wide braid. uniting In cioVer-ieai
| trimming along the hem the same Idea beihg OFTEN
| carried out on the Jacket or jacket ooo'ce'
| smart walking costume has severely shapeo '"''
40 close and snug that II Is adjusted 'lhc an ap
| md fastens nvisibly down the pack' utter nc
| manner Of the Redfern skirt described a rev weeks
| opo Tho material is n face-ciotn III cd"e' oue
Tno ,wo side seams are outlined by rows OF proao
,,ocl, braid with tiny tracery OF gold along inc
| odyes These are finished by large clover iea'es
:. ~. bem Tho fitted jacket has revers ana
showI collar faced with white cloth' on "io'. '"e
hlack and gold braid make clover-ieal uesisn'
rho woistcoat is a surpcc affair OF black more
% ,,. ,t,h , double row of fligree gold
s'"' nj, r,va. may be severe dressy. as
buttons. The crd'a' "'"' "
one chooses .o,A m
Tn. shirt waist has taken so nrm ho'u %"
r,r.nch favor that one sees the se'eie -, ~.
form repeated not only In PLAIN or ia''s , 80, 80,
4, veIve, These make charming informal op'
and comfortable working costumes - '"0 %
., ,,, a vok. lining IL sufficient But t'e mas
Is s'''" -, ~ tho shirt waist is preserved In
| 49,, ,r,,, ~ fascinated front fastening WIN TO"
~ studs and cuffs arranged for sleeve h"hs' i"0
| ororer collar Ia a tiny turnover ana'r u VIM
H., under which is soft SILK tie ana Sa"a'0
bow.
hotc GROWING
- ,har we're the Ideas implied In the eariV
.ao,a Smart hats have velvet Shapes Out "e'e'
,,o,ass some fets are appearing. Ihere Is 10 iee.
,arltv shown IN the method oil trimn'ie o'
,,o ,everse seems to he the accepted ho"'' 80
hr,ms are tortured into Impossible shapee' az"
c,no,es need only to he bizarre, ana YET p'e'''' W
-. accon,sd Tulle Is rarely seen. but there are
pe r' Studded with mock Jewels. that al
-. o,,,r,se a frivolous bonnet. Every possio'e
s =, nIunage appears, alone or IN conpiha-
,,or and flowers are worn. excep, on "a'A''s nos
| Az a rule the early winter means oo''eS "
hats adorned with feathers. roseDuos anu e,e.'
'',a,s, orIv appearing after the New Year; out
''.'o' ,ss IA made of almost every possible
s''o 49,, great many impossible ones. fasn-
- ,ro,, silk and velvet and matching or con-
lasting with the general tone OF the chapeau'
| c,o,or and material generally r'ch ana nea's
hut little attempt is made 10 to"o" 'a'''. =.
~. almost as large az roses. anemohes the size "a
asters. and roses as tiny DIS ''9 -. w. ..nad ,,,.
,r,oro &c n dull shade Of red somewhat usen' ou.
! .o hy English women than by Parisians. hat
=, ,h,s color has a sailor brm. with all the trim
ming rs massed on side. the trimming consisting
=, ,,,ooe velvet loops and punches OF vioets'
a.. ~ the flowers being arranged in small clusters
IN high stiff stems. Black-and-sreen Is iaVoI,'e
combination and particularly pre.y ~nen .,, Inv
.o,ch "a effected by the use Of mror velvet.
= oto has n crown OF green twisted chenille
ao,tcd with brllllants. and with a tiny Irregular
rut,,e Of black velvet forms the brm. The trim
"a =, HACK silk roses with diamond and yellow
oan,res and a cluster OF coque feathers. each
| feather being lightly edged by iine OF green