The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1896-03-19

VISIT TO KAUAI-NATURAL CURlOSI-
TIES AND AN OSTRICH FARM.
The Island Of Kauai is sometimes
called the Garden Island of the group.
1t is one vast flower garden between
ninety and one hundred miles in cir
conference. Vegetables, however, are
not grown very successfully there. The
Island is said, by biologists, to be the
oldest of the group. One thing is Ger
tain, Kauai has better roads than any
of the other islands, and after wander
ing through the stony, painless forests
of Hawaii, one finds the roads Of Kauai
delightful! garden paths.
On January 6, 1896, the little steamer
Mikahola lay at her dock in Honolulu
Harbor. AT p. IN. aligh,ed from
the carriage, walked up the gangway,
and took my position on the captain S
bridge 10 watch the process Of loading
mules.
This is an interesting sight. The
vessel has derrick rugged on the deck,
and broad belt IS passed under the
mule to which hook is attached above
his back. AS the engine starts, the
mule is lifted from his feet and landed
on deck, much 10 his disgust. One Of
the most amusing incidents | have ever
witnessed was getting vicious mule
on board this vessel.
This mule was brlmiul of his Satanic
majesty, and flashed more birthstone
from his eyes than the great volcano is
doing to-day. His heels were light and
played with the rapidlty of lightning
about among the natives, and when
they began to put the belt under his
body, he smiled in his sardonc way,
and seemed to be saying: "Just watch
me buck when they tighten that cinch.'
He seemed to labor under the deluslon
that saddle was being placed on him.
AT last the belt was fixed, the hook in
serted in the ring, and the mate blew
his whistle to start the engine.
"Puf, puf-rattle, rattle" the belt
began TO tighten and the mule thought
it time to chuck" He elevated his
back until it grew round, and all four
of his feet left the ground at the same
moment. Now came The surprise. He
expected to land flat footed IN such a
way as to completely paralyze every
thing, but the clnch frightened and his
muleship swung high in the air, until
such look of disgust and amaz.m1nl
came over his Countenancc as wouII
make fortune for farce comedian
His gyrations, kicks, and struggles IN
mid-alr soon ceased, and he was gen
thy lowered to the deck He seemed
to "have 1t in ior' the mate, for every
time that parsonage came in sight ihe
mules heels flew out like springs toward
him.
Before we reached Diamond Head
the supper gong sounded, and the pas
sengers hurried down to finish the
meal before we entered The channel, as
SisS ShaLNSS WIN w "''uil HOl ChIJG
it an hour later. The channels between
the islands are never smooth, and seem
to be more dreaded by The inhabitants
of the islands than a voyage to Japan
or San Francisco. The vessels which
ply between the Islands are small, the
sea "choppy," and if one can make the
nf the Sl,nIc ,ha,,, ,;,b
getting seasick, he is proof against that
malady. had made seven ocean voy-
ages without feeling any of the dis
agreeable effects of seasickness, and
had begun to boast myself a born
sailor, but, alas, the channel between
Kauai and Oahu took the Conceit out
of me.
At three o'clock in the morning the
steward called at my state room
and said we were entering the port of
Nawiliwili. had not the slightest idea
where was to land, but somehow in
stinctively felt that this must be my
destination. | awoke sleepy and cross,
dressed hurriedly, seized my travelling
bag and artists portfolio, and left the
stateroom just as the anchor was drop
ped.
Three ladies, myself, seven Japanese,
and fourteen Cinnamon were the pas
sengers to disembark. The harbor was
not very rough tho the water was
slightly undulaling. We were COMPEL
ed to climb down rope ladder and
enter boat manned by crew of dusk y
Hawaiians. This feat in the night, is
not pleasant, especially when boat and
ship are both bobbing in different di-
rections.
AS soon as the mail was brought off
the omnibus took us to the hotel at
Likue, about one and half miles from
the landing. was shown to my room
and informed that Or. E. E. Goodhue,
the government physician at Koloa,
would call for me during the forenoon.
Shortly after breakfast he came to take
me to koloa as his guest.
The ride from Likue to koloa was
delightful. The day was fair, the roads,
but for the red soil, might remind one
Of New England. The kukua trees, or
screw pines, and wild breadiruit grew
on every side. On the way we paused
at the Kauai Industrial School which
was established by DR.. S. S Smith and
his sister. There are sixty bows in at
tendance at this school. where they are
not only given a good English educa-
ton, but are taught useful trades, such
as carpentering, blacksmithing, and
farming.
AS we reached the beautiful village
Of koloa with its great old sugar mill,
l noticed in front of one of the larger
and better houses the glorious "Stars
and Stripes" flying. Surprising it to
be the Office Of an American consul,
asked the doctor and he replied that i,
was his own flag which he raised every