The morning times., 1896-03-08
But Ball Gowns and Deckings
Still Occupy the Femi-
nine Mind.

Also a brooch that fastens nothing being
sUperfluOus is out.of taste. In England,
where white linen cuffs are worn with
day gowns, sleeve buttons are a part OF
dress. but French fashion does not toler-
ate linen cuffs and so sleeve buttons as a
rule are not seen. Bracelets cannot be
worn with long sleeves, and thus there
is very little left but finger rings and the
watch.
Fashionable watches are very small; the
ordinary size is about an inch In diameter.
They are carved with decorations. either
crusted with diamonds or covered with
colored enamels. II there is a fob or
q pin il is decorated To match. There are
also plain gold cases perfectly smooth. The
old Geneva patterns OF engraved coucen-
trio lines seems TO have disappeared.
There is an awkwardnes5 in placing a
watch ON feminine dress. If it is pinned
on one side Of the bodice it looks foOlshly
like a society decoration, and II il is
worn on a long chain dangling from the
neck the chain is too conspicuous, be-
cause it is out OF harmony with the
dress. Both these fashions are seen, the
last one the preferable. The chain in
vogue is Of five links, interspersed with
pea rls. Better than either OF these is
the fob chain or chatelaine clasp, and it
is the only method that taste can justify
for a watch worn out in sight.
In spite of the temporary cloud upon
them breastpins continue to be made.
and perhaps il is because of the cloud
that the jewellers have piqUed them
selves on making some unusually inter
esting designs. They are flat discs OF gold
that by a processes known to jewellers
have had the surface purified of alloy
and made a dun, rich yellow. They imi-
tate ancient designs, GaUliSh, Etruscan,
old seals Of the middle ages. or japanese
sword guards Thus a dragon swallow
ing its tail. / have seen one where a
gold dragon in bas-relef coils itself upon
a ground OF green mosaic that for simplicity
and beauty of color contrast is rarely sur
passed. Sometimes one or more gems are
set in TO heighten the design.
The side combs worn in the daytime are Of
simple tortoise shell, or with reception
dress they may be backed with gold. The
hairdresser il asked, VIII contradict this,
and say that paste diamond combs are all
the rage. The good sense OF the reader
will decide whether women OF taste are
likely todecorate the head withdiamonds for
the street.
But evening dress lends itself as much
as ever 10 jewel decorations. The low
neck calls for q necklace and the short
sleeves for bracelets; with evening dress
one may sttlI wear brooch, and with
the blouse bodice in fashion, buckles. par
ttcularIy diamond enes, have attained some
Importance.
The vogue continues for cOlCred stones.
They are set with diamonds or pearls,
which, being col0rleSs, form a neutral
background and a means Of keeping
them apart. Thus necklaces and brace
lets are made OF rubics in alienation
with diamonds or emeTalds, turn about
with pearls. each stone set separately.
and the settings linked together. Pearl
dog collars, which are stiH the favorite
necklace, have slides set with coiOred
stones, bedded in diamonds.
This passion for color has led to the
combining OF transparent light ON the
pearl. II should be set with diamond;
also it may be set with an opal, for the
crimson of one seems to find an echo in
the red flames OF the other, with re-
suit that is exquisite. The emerald and
the amethyst combine perfectly with
pearls.
OpaIs continue very fashionable. as do
turquoises and other translucent and opaque
stones. These can be combined for color
without the disadvantage that pertains to
the brilIiants, and some Ofthe most beautiful
Jewels of this year are formed Of such
stones in contrast. Thus a necklace Of cut
coral and black pearls in aIteruationi is sepa-
rated by n space Of three or four smaller
diamonds. This is delicious. Another sim
uar arrangement is of turquoises and moon
stones.
The same rules OF combination hold good
for rings.
There is q great deal of ColOred enamel
ing, and as the French are past masters
in this art, some wonderful work IS to be
seen. II is particularly applied to watches