The San Francisco call., 1896-04-19

pie, though one looks in vain for the
classical style Of beauty he is apt to asso-
ciate with this ancient race. On the con-
trary they seem coarse. blunt-featured
type and do not look over-intelligent,
though they appear gentle and kind
hearted. We speak, of course, of the
poorer people, who have but little educa-
tion.
The dress of one class of soldiers is very
peculiar. 1t consists of an immensely
full short white cotton skirt reaching the
knee, a long close-ftting covering for the
leg, and very pointed heelless shoe
turned up at the toe and finished at the
end with tuft or bali of cotton as an orna-
ment. These curious shoes, which strike
one at first as ridiculous, are an important
feature of their dress
The soldiers in question are renowned
for the rapidity of their march, and so
noiseless is their approach, owing to these
very shoes, that they are upon the enemy
before their presence is even suspected. A
shirt OF white cotton, broad, colored sash
around the waist, a short, gayly embroid-
cred jacket with long, flowing sleeves, ana
red Greek cap complete this odd and
picturesque costume. The officers dresses
are OF finer materials, the Jackets often
very richly embroidered and the sashes of
silk.
These soldiers are specially chosen and
are considered the finest in the army.
They mount guard in front of the King s
palace and are of great service in sur
prises and advance work. AS the sun
dress and the bright coloring of sash,
Jacket and cap produce very pretty effect.
In spite of the full skirt they have manly,
even martial, air.
Our whole route was in sight of the
water, first of the beautiful coast OF the
Saronic gulf and later along the classic
shores of the Gulf of Lepanto. For a long
while after starting we could see the island
of Salamis, where was fought that famous
battle of the allied Greeks against the
mighty hosts of the dreaded Xerxes over
1000 years ago.
AS we crossed the narrow isthmus of
Corinta we could see far below US men at
work on the canal, which is now finished,
uniting the two CULTS. They are said to
have followed traces left by that malig-
nant but undoubtedly clever and enter
prising Emperor Nero.
From here to Pyrgos, where we were to
remain for the night, the ride was the
most pleasant. Nothing can equal the
vivid blue depths of a Grecian sky and the
clearness of the atmosphere is startling.
On one side of US quivered the sparkling
waters of the deep blue bay, relieved now
and then by a dancing white sail. On our
other hand extended miles and miles OF
fair green vineyard bearing the famous
Corinth grape, which, when dried, 10
known as the Zante currant.
We had never seen more beautiful or
fourishing vineyards, and their yield is,
indeed, one of the few sources of wealth
of this poverty-stricken country. Across
the bright gulf we could see the lovely
outlines of the distant mountains, bathed
in the soft liquid atmoshere. We arrived
at the ancient town of Pyrgos about dusk.
and taking carriage rode a few hundred
yards to hotel we had chosen at hap
hazard, where we enjoyed tolerable meal
and fair nights rest.
BY half-past the next morning we were
on the way to Olympia on tie short branch
railroad recently constructed. An hours
ride through lonely and primitive coun-
try and we had reached the famous goal of
our journey. A country road led up
gentle slope and passed simple roadside
tavern and rural blacksmith-sh shop. At
the very summit of this hill stood a mod
ern, well-built museum, that seemed quite
imposing from it's site and solitude.
And this was every trace of life to be
found for miles around. We turned off to
the left before reaching the museum; and