The morning times., 1896-08-23
Fancy Bodices, with Black Silk
Skirts, rlore Than Ever to the
FOre-Small QuillingS
of Velvet in Place
of Stocks.
Deep Centuries Are the Rage
in Paris,

At th is period of the season little may be
expected in the way of new fashions. il
is too early for autumn styles and too late
for summer ones, so that neither the dress
making establishments nor the shops have
anything novel to show.
New York, too, as far as the fashionable
world is concerned, is still deserted, the
streets being filled with out-of-town and
business folk, and, in the way of dress, pre-
senting that democratic look that goes with
the tail of summer. The shirtwaist and
plain skirt, of duck serge or linen, is par
excellence the costume OF the moment, hut
here and there, driving in the park or sit
ting in some smart eating place, will be
seen a dressier frock, a damaged summer re-
sort butterfly, with its tumbled gauzes and
laces, that has wandered back to town.
With their attendant tuIle-trimmed hat and
pale. fluttering ribbons, there is a world
OF pathos about these faded summer gowns.
Like kethegrasshopper they have danced their
last dance. and are he-r II tell us that the
chill winds of autumn az Coming.
"Requiescatinpace.'', would be pleased
TO say and see thetn a way in lavcr,.er
as faded souvenirs of Il r;'Eant season: bu,
always to be sentimental, ana thcrcare other
uses for the passe summer frock.
Those who have old nIItcTiI lis that may
be utilized for fancy ho!iCcS will doubtless
be glad to hear that plaia black skirts
with odd bodices will be as much Worn
this autumn as ever.
The combination has proven too practi-
cal and effective To he Gone away with.
have declared themselves, there is moth
Ing safer or more economical to fall back
upon.
ON the cool days that have appeared
here and there through August many taf-
feta silk shirt waists have been seen. in
the streets, worn usually with plain black
Serge skirts and by the smartest women.
The shops are also continually showing
fresh supplies OF them. which wolldindicate
the probability uf their being Worn straight
up to winter.
Only plain iaffctas are used and the
cOlors are thr same strange purpies, blues,
and green's that app ,lrel at the beginning
CT the season.
In design The taCfetl shirt waists copy
exactly the cotton afiairs. There is the
same yoke at the back and moderately
full front with one stud piait. srnallsb
bishop sleeves. straight and square cuffs
A the neck. with Il narrow hos tic. an
adjustable linen collar is Worn, either
turneddown OF ST lnd up shape with bent
points at the trout.
ON a trim figure. bcltcd neatly and with
properly simple accessories. these shirt
waists are very fetching. Some have "A
half-fitted lining, but only the yokes Of
Others are lined, and so simply are they
made that, with a pattern. any woman
who knows how to ha ndle her needle at all
cleverly may fashion them at home.
For dressier bodices. Tor evening house
and carriage use, a few fresh breadths from
an Old summer gown will do Won
ders toward helping out a slim autumn
wardrobe. 1t is not necessary to have stuff
enough Tor the entire bodice. as lace silk,
gauze. and velvet may all appear in one
corsage. and. with the deep girdes now
being worn, many short length may he
hidden at the waist in n cunning way the
world little dreams OF.
In Paris this summer deep centuries OF
ali sorts have been the rage. whether for
short bodices or for those with basques
Sometimes the belt was in The shape OF a
wide velvet bias that met slanting at the
left side, and fastened. perhaps, with a
strass buckle or n great grasShopper bow
Again. several rows OF narrow velvet rib