The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1896-02-15
EUROPEAN LETTER.
A Newspaper Woman Ascends Mount
VesuviuS and Writes Entertain
ingly of Her Trip.
Special Correspondence WING.


We went to the crater in rain thai
was sufficient to have put out the vol
cano. We have jolted miles in spring
less wagon, we have ridden springless don
keys, waded in ashes to our ankles, and all
this in the interest Of pleasure.
We left Naples about nine o'clock in the
morning under the supervision of Cook and
in one Of Cook wagons. The morning was
not altogether promising but 'hope springs
eternal" and we thought the day would
probably be clear-Naples was just begin
ming to really wake up for the day, for the
dolce far niente Of the people begins by ly-
ing in bed in the morning. At last we
reached the open country and while the
clouds gathered overhead our spirits were
kept up by a band OF strolling musicians
who walked along by the carriage and sang
"Santa Lucia" and other delightful Italian
songs varying them occasionally with
"Daisy Bell" in honor OF our nationality
and seeming disappointed when we failed
to look appreciative. We stopped at little
mountain inn where our honest driver who
probably shared profits with the proprie-
tor, told US we could get the best wine in
all Italy. At the next stop we left the
carriage and mounted donkeys to cross the
lava fields At this moment natures feel
ings oveIcame her and as if in anticipation
Of the fate that awaited us, began to weep.
Everyone commented gleefully on the fact
and we mounted the diabolcal beasts. as
premier oliver said when the French
started to Berlin with eight hearts.
When we reached that spot on our return
we had seen Nesuvius but strange silence
had fallen on all the party, and those who
found voice at all lifted it in declaring that
| henceforth their mission would be to dis
suade Others from the ascelt Of the volcano
An incompatibilty bad sprung up between
all the members of the company, and eyes
that looked love at the beginning of the
trip were now singularly inexpensive he
hind Strengthened bangs and under dripping
hats.
Probably the donkeys were no worse
than other donkeys, but the road they had
to travel was but a rough path and it
seemed to me that any self-respecting don
! key would not have taken advantage OF so
many rocks in the road for purpose Of
stumbling as these innocent looking ami
mails did The saddles were not fastened
securely and the guides, one of whom ac-
companied each rider and shouted dreadful
threats to the donkeys were expected to
hold the saddles on. When the donkey
fell down. the saddle slipped forward and
cuffed the animal on the head. When he
went up hill it settled insecurity on his
tail and finally when the guide had grown
tired Of holding it on it tumbled off alto
gether.
The rain at last began to pour and the
wind rushed violently down the mountain.
1t was impossible to hold umbrellas and
cold, wet and disheartened the party
reached the station Of the funiculaire road
that leads up the steep, yielding ashy cone
to within few hundred yards of the cra-
ter OF the volcano
The only fire in the restaurant was in the
kitchen and the head-waiter who speaks
five languages and probably gets about $50
a month, invited us to warm ourselves, an
invitation we gladly accepted. When the
world had assumed brighter hue through
the medium Of an omelette and steak we
started up the mountain again. The road
is almost perpendicular and one feels much
more as il the ascent were being made
in an elevator than on rail track. 1t is
called funiculaire, but is really cable
with double tracks and the cars are balanced
so they pass each other midway OF the dis.
lance. On either side are the great fields
of lava and ashes the former OF course, now
cooled and in the most fantastic shapes, in
which, as in clouds, one sees most clearly
what his fancy suggests. Perhaps it was
the influence Of the donkey ride and the
weather but it seemed to me Dore's illus
trations Of Dantes Inferno might have
been photographs of these formations.
At the top OF the funiculaire we were met
by new relay Of guides who took off their
big coats and wrapped them about the
drenched women in the party. Chairs car
ried by four men were to be had for those
unable to walk to the crater. A guide went
ahead Of each Of us and throwing q strap
over his shoulder told us to hold it tight
and lean back. Ones sympathy for the
guide prevents him leaning back very far at
first, but latter sympathy is lost in fatigue
and one resigns himself to being pulled
bodily up the hill through the deep ashes.
The crater was pointed out to us and we
were warned not to 60 too close, but we saw
nothing but place little more foggy than
the dense mist covering the mountain, we
saw the running lava which looked temp
tingly warm, and the sulphur which was a
bright yellow and smelled like match
factory Descending the hill again to the
funculaire the ladies hung Imply on the
arms Of the guides and regardless OF best
shoes, and silk underskirts suffered them
selves to be dragged through the fine, grey
ashes, too weary and wet to protest.