The Republican., 1896-03-19
EUROPEAN LETTER.
Our Special Correspondent Writes
From Italy.

(trom our speciai correspondent.)
ROME, ITALY, March z, 1896.
Our stay in Rome has been ex-
tremely pleasant and profitable.
Now | want to mention that we
have seen during the last week,
the Capitol, the Aventine, the
Pantheon, Paul's prison, the Kings
Stables, the Jesuit Church of St.
Ignazio and Gesu, one of the most
gorgeous churches in Rome.
On Sunday we went to the Villa
Borghese, where they had fitted up
the bed of what was formerly large
lake as a race course and we're hav-
ing horse and chariot races there
witnessed by thousands Of people.
1t seemed strange to me to pay ad-
mission and attend this performance
of wild west order excepting Of
course, the chariot races) on a Sun
day afternoon. But it was for the
benefit Of the wounded in Africa.
A thousand more soldiers left here
last week for Africa, to recruit the
ranks of the wounded. They de-
parted amid bursts of martial music
and great enthusiasm. But the SEN
satlve ear detected many minor
notes. They came from the broken
hearts of mothers, wives and sisters
who were embracing the loved they
might never see again. Oh, it was
terribly sad. 1t makes me boil with
indignation when | think on what
trivial preteXts nations that call
themselves civilized, resort to war.
| admire England for the pacific
attitude she took in our recent
little wrangle. She kept a level
head. Until man is ready to en-
list in the first volunteer regiment,
it does not become him to blow about
war.
On the AyenUine we saw very
handsome new monastery, a vista
opening upon st. Peters, and St.Sa-
bina, an old church dating from the
early fifth century. Here we were
followed around by an old Francis
can monk who took us into the
monastery gardens and gave us
flowers. This reminds me that in
Rome there are as many uniformed
and official as unofficial beggars.
The former class kept little gates
and doors locked on public highways
or in buildings, which the visitor
has a perfect right to enter free of
charge. But not so, rule these beg
gars in brass buttons. They ap-
point themselves Custodian of the
Key, and you must ring and wait
in their officious service. They bow
around and make great pretence
Of assistance. Once away from
them you are confronted by the de-
formed and wretched looking beg
gars at every church door who often
project themselves in front of you
and all but catch hold of your sleeve.
If you refuse them, maledlctions
are hurled after you. This is one
of the very disagreeable features of
European travel. | shall never
forget beggar, this time in the
garb of priest, whom we encount-
cred in the great Cathedral of Sc
yille. He asked for money in every
way but in words. | did not mind
this so much as | did his face. 1t
was the most voluptuous, ,repugnant
face | lave ever seen. Alas, that
his lips have ever taken the VOWS of
Holy Church. lie might grace the
Bowery, but his physical make up
was suggestive of every thing but
sanctity.
On Thursday we went to the
Kings stables, where Paul was greatly
delighted with the $50 horses. They
were pleasing to look at, fine, tat,
sleek, intelligent-looking fellows,
with nothing to do but contemplate
their fortunate (or unfortunately lot
in life; for they looked like they
longed for an outing and would
gladly exchange places with the cab