The record-union., 1896-09-13

them most appropriate for jackets and
capes. with gowns matching them in
color, but Of lighter material. Some
of the goods for cold-weather garments
are thus f1eece-woven. They are as
warm and durable as beaver cloth, yet
extremely light and pliable. and Of the
best quality and purest dye. These are
called special German goods" but Ger
man experts manufacture them in this
country.
With many Of the new velvet boleros
and jacket bodices will be worn lovely
broad collars Of Venice point, point
applique, or Of very sheer batiste en-
broidered in quaint and beautiful
Flemish or Renaissance patterns or old
Roman arabesques, with deep cuffs to
match, turned back over the close coat
sleeve, or edging in dainty frills, the
mousquetaire point falling over the
back Of the hand.
Many Of the autumn silks have a
faint mottled ground figured with small
brilliant Persian designs This mottled
effect is very pretty-"flambi," the Par
isian silk manufacturers call it, obtain
ing the name from the technical vOcab-
ulary of the French glassDlOwers.
There is growing favor shown for
rich Oriental designs in place of the
Dresden and POmpadour patterns that
have ragged for two seasons past. These
effective devices will appear among the
early importations, alSo, for tailor cos
tunes, very pretty silk and and mohair
novelty Jacquard yoOos crossed with
black. These fabrics will be trimmed
with black satin or with black velvet
either wide or narrow. Paquin and
Rouff are making great use of these
ribbons, also satin striped patterns on
the large ribbon ruches and centuries,
which they add to gowns of mohair,
canvas, ladies' cloth and repped silk.
Liberty silks and satinS have found
such great favor with French ateliers
on account Of their spliable texture,
light weight, yet rich, lustrous quality,
that they are becoming universally fa-
vored for entire gowns, as we'll as for
the accessories of budices and fancy
wraps for evening wear. They make
lovely dresses for young women and
charming teagOwns for matrons. They
come in exquisite evening tints and in
medium shades in Powered stripes, with
satin bars or glace, with two cOlors
beautifully blended, with crossing satin
lines Of a third shade contrasting with
the background. Many Of the prettiest
fancy woods for autumn are in mix
lures of fawn color with stem green,
brown or blue. Gowns Of soft gray blue
and glowing pansy tints have vest,
revers, and collar Of heavy corded silk
edged with glittering metallic gimps
showing a blending Of rich Persia n
co]ors. Hyde Park woolens are among
the early fabrics designed both for
tailor gowns and coats. They are of
medium weight and show irregularly
brown mixtures with white, or in cream
and chestnut shades woven in wide
GiagonalS. For these who have tired
of the blue and black mOhair costumes
for utility wear, one of the stylish tai
lor gowns for early fall wear will be of
Oxford gray suiting, In which only a
little gray is woven with brown, yet
every atom of the gray is visible. The
autumn covert suitings differ from the
familiar French covert coatings In be-
ing very much less weighty, and there
fore more desirable for making an en-
tire costume. These have tan, gray,
green. and blue grounds, also a warp of
tan and white that is often crossed with
a weft of Russian blue