Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-10-15

Ihi 8Cly. OhC AC0SuFc 10 lHc DAstCAuS Va tAC
feeling between the sound money dsDpr.
Gratis and the silver democrats. All the
meetings of the state cemuatttee .hsHat tp7,
tensified this feeling. -. ?.
AUTUMN RAIMENT. FOR MEN.
They Mny Choose Garments From a
Lmrger variety of Cloths Than Usual
From the New York Henld.-.l. Xmi r-r 81, tro--
Advance styles in 8entlemen's attire for
the fall and winter season were displayed
In some of the leading avenue and upper
broadway outfftters' windows during the
last week. The autumn fashions in mems
wear, have in the main been. decided. upnn
by the representative artist merchant tall
ors or the metropolis, and II is the opinion
that the approaching season will be PROS.
ductive Of greater variety Of fabrics and
Novel colorinss than for many years. r4--~
. This fall Is especially notable for the RICH
ness of shades In browns brown green's
And-otiler hues Of the latter colon 1.Bluess
blacks. grays, ETC., will. Of course. find
II cir dev0tees: but the READ swell dresser
will guide his tendency Of favor toward
brown and green tint fabrics.
. In oyercoatfngs and plain coatipgs there
is prac -ically no end to the choice OF ma
terials. the assortment being larger than
for a decade of years. AS for fancy suit
inss- and trouserings. the variety. intrisacE
of design. bofdness of effect and unique
ness Of the stripes, checks. plsid&, and
combinations of the three features would
require 7s1 page OF the Herald 5or' adequate
description.
: There wilfbe but few blacks used, IN .oxerp
oatings. these staples being superseded by
blues. srowns7 greens. brown green's. -srays,
silvers and bronze mixtures Moderately
rough fabrics in lambs woods and 'cheviots
are preferred. Ingenious weaves in lambs
wool fancy diagonals are shown: Twill
worsted-clear cut and fairly wide-vicu-
mas. worsted vicunas and worsted cheviots
in plain twill. basket leaves mayo. -.dia-
mond and barothea weaves and coverts.
Veastians and lightweight meltons.. also
figure in the favored class For great
coats, which are called in requisitiopc "a bout,
midwlnter close finished fur beavers, mix
ed sables, paletats and frosty beavers. curl
finished furs, pushes and astrakhans, pin
head and small, curl elysians, Belgravias
and e!derdowns are the fabrics most en-
ployed.
For listers and storm coats Irish friezes
and rough Shetlands are in excellent de-
beavers and kerseys. meltons. buckskins,
waterproofs and tweeds show active in
Quiry.
. For E~eninR, Dress
: In evening dress fabrics inner, softer and
mere abasHtifM blacks are Distinguishing
features. Favorite materials are twills.
plain. sharp raiseds dress, corkscrew and
which are duh or dead faced: undressed
wcrsted twills woEstett broadcloths. dress
vicunas. vicuna hopsaeks. Thfbets, dress
GRANTEES, dress crepes+-all Of which are
used for the complete ssuit, although the
trorserings are generally a tTffle heavier
ttan coat and vest.
White silk and Mar1eilles 'vestfn So are
favored to such degree that 1t has come
black waistcoat with evening dress. except
on certain occasions! when the white vast
would be obviously out Of order.
The most popular fabrics for double
breasted and cutaways frocks and their ac-
companying vests, for day and half dress,
are lambs. wool, woEsted. ehesiot aud their
combinations, as, for instance. worsted
chsyiots and WorSted svicunas, (which. in.
vaE.ety, ny tSw-ell" -weaves are distinct and.
ir distinct, narrow, medium and wide twill
and diagonafs, chain diagonals. baskcts dia-
mord, hopsack, whipcord, fine herring
bore. bir,i's-eye, pin check and granite. =.
The principal colorings comprise browns
in many dark shades. brown green mix
lures. novel effects in peacock green COM
binetions. and the usual blacks, blues and
grays. Cheviots, in bold and neat dag
onal patterns, fine wool, but rough home
SPINS, undressed worsteda botany nat
ursls, demi-naturals and demi-vicunas.
Thibats, IauFels, a1aleas and heather, mix
tures command unusual attention this sea-
son.
English and Scotch novelties Of positive
inclination will occupy prominent position
in popular suitings during autumn.
Throughout the lines offered"'b y the best
houses extravaganza in color and design
Is In view, but there are also SHOWN many
quiet mixtures Of softly blended colors,
modest stripes, checks and plaids,' winch
contrast most strikingly when placed in
comparison with the positive styles.
Blarneys, tweeds. Sec tch wools home
t'sprns and serges are the predominant fab
RIGS used for suitings
In trouserin&s stripes. checks, p1aids and
fancy designs will share about equal popu-
iarity The range is from the neat to the
! color tones, which are chiefly shades of
blue and. brown, are rendered" beautifully
| effective by the artistic contrast of bright
cclers.-, Broad; subdued stripes and checke,
| with overplaids, also made unobtrusive by
the coloring, are the vogue %" '''''"'''
Domextic WOosena. Demanded.
| Although the swell tailors adhere almost
exclusively to foreign manufactured fab.
RIGS there Ia a. growing request for domes.
tic woolens The best grades are made
from imported wool ION which raw 'nnatura
| there is now no tariff duty, are soft, mel
low, elastic. fine and fast Of color, and Of
almost similar designs to the foreign made
| fabrics, than which. at relative prices
| they are considered OF superior value.
American manufacturers particularly ex
eel In lambs. wool and 'oheyiots. specially
! adapted for overcoats. Domestic beavers
| kSTS0YSx auQ ,WSlAUuS ~ Gil 8GA4SS, -WHetuG
| Of native or foreign raw material. ar,
steadily. gaining In popular favor, .ament
| the better classes Of society. The finisl
| is what gives them 'headway.' r='-t- s~.
There is really no end to the assortment
of trimmings offered today in thsn metro
politan market. The covered buttons ar
| rich and ,rdressy. Popular hard button
this season are perfectly finished ivories
buclshofns, in mottled and other effects
buffalo horns, in marble and agate, suita
BILE for corduroy and leather vests; concl
shells and white pearls, for driving coats
Silver buttons are used for dress, whit
and fancy vests.
A. synopsis Of the seasons LEADING
fea lures shows: In COATS moderately broa,
and square shoulders, rolls of liberal widtl
/ and medium length: In veets.. smoderatel.
| vide collars; in tronsersE narrow legs, witt
no perceptible botAoQn pprtng.m ...---~--
! The Inverness iF. the universally &C
copied overcoat,, for wear over evening
Dress Next In popular order are tn
Chesterfield, the coverty the surtout;i. tn
paletot, the box the ulster and the fur
trimmed oversack ~'~ -H-''''' 's.''t
The fall Chesterfield orhyfront oversack
will not be close-httingi to the back, an
will show a vented back center seam, an
the shoulder seamstl will be high at "th
sleeve. There will be no outside breas
pocket, the sleeves moderately wide, an
the average length will bh about thirty min
| to- 81 ho oil