davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1896-11-23
WASHINGTON LETTER.
WASHINGTON. Noyemher 20. l,

Washington, November 20, 1896.
Some of the friends of Mckinley are
not talking as wisely as they might
about the possible relations of the Silver
Republican senators to the proposed
protection bill which is to be put through
at the extra session of congress expected
to be called. For instance, Representa-
tive Grout, of Vermont, after expressing
the belief that the constituents of these
senators would compel them to support
protection tariff bill, goes step
further and makes the threat that if
they do not vote for it they will be
ignored in the distribution of federal
patronage in their states. While this
threat would almost surely be carried
out, it is certainly impolitic, not to call
it absolutely foolish, to publicly make it
before the senators have indicated their
intentions. High-spirited men are
seldom controlled by threats, and if the
foolfriends of protection are not careful
they will drive away votes they might
have got had no threats been made.
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03
Bah RAILS At THE HEAT
She Says No Woman Can
Reconcile Pleasure With
Perspiration.
How Ladies and Babies Should Be
Dressed to Insure Warm Weather
Comfort.

NEW YORK, n. Y, April 27.-On very
cold days in winter we sing hymn de-
scribing the joys of heaven as consisting
principally of never-ending music and
summer weather. The writer of that hvmn
never lived in New York Sum mer weather
in New York means sun on both sides of
the street; it means absolutely no getting
away from the rays, aud it means general
depravity. The only reason why every
one of us doesn't kill his neighbor during
the hot days is because some exertion
would be required, and then, too, the
blood would look hot. That is the only
why-for. When the thermometer is at
ninety-five in the shade every man is every
mans enemy, and every woman hates
every woman with an intensity that can
only be appreciated by Satan.
The messenger-boy who answers your
call has his cap cooked on the back of his
head, and exudes heat. He quarrels with
you about the tariff, and presents of
oranges or apples have no effect OH him.
The book may say one thing, but he saws
another; and he is grumpy and disagree
able, doubts your being perfect lady,
and fully believes that the place of pun
ishm ent intended for people who want er-
rands run is Hot, spelled with capital II.
The elderly lady who walks Broadway,
with tiny black silk parasol between her
and the sunshine, wonders that she feels
SO wicked. Her broad back is covered
with black alpaca and all black ma
terials absolutely seduce sun rays to come
and rest upon them. She wears mitts,
and going into the big shops retires to the
ladies' parlor, so that she may have an
opportunity to use her starch bag.
She does not believe in ''boughten pow
der" Her mode of preparing the cooling
stuff is to bang the starch with potato
masher until it is fine powder, and pour
Florida water over it, and then when it is
dry put it in flannel bag. This is her
refuge in trouble. When the perspiratien
streams down her face she stops the liquid
warmth by dabs with the starch bag, and
she looks, after she has used the starch
bag without mirror like study in red
and white, the red underlying the white,
while the white rapidly becomes lumpy.
She would lose her complexion altogether.
but when she gets home limp. and with no
faith In anything, with doubt even as to
the truth of the Westminster Catechism,
she takes cup of hot tea to brace her up;
this brings about profuse perspiration,
a perspiration which amounts to a rain
storm, and the dear old soul is saved men
tally and morally while she drips.
Weather affects the temper of the ele-
vator-boy. Yesterday he was deeply in
terested in a novel called THE Queen of
Rubies. or Who Was She?' But to-day
he does not care continental dam O
spell 1t without the n, he spells it with)
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

A. T the Presidio hop were many of
~ our very prettiest girls, and as
~ usual they thoroughly enjoyed
x N every moment of the time. One
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

whether she was typewriter or mani
cure, but he knows he hates everybody.
He wonders if there is a hereafter. He
thinks he is getting his taste of it now,
riding up and down in hall room by the
power of steam. Civility and he are un-
known quantities. He wonders why he
was ever born. and why if he had to be
born, he was fool enough to be born in
country where the weather man gives YOU
August heat in April and March winds in
July. You can't tip him into pleasant
ness. The heat has affected him so that
all he hopes for is sudden disappearance
OF himself into the poetical wave that
washes the shores and makes one ac-
quainted with the dirt that comes from
New York to Coney Island.
He despises the girl that went up in the
elevator a little while ago. She looked
cool. He heard her telling her sister her
method for keeping cool, and he wondered
how it would work if she had to wear
heavy blue cloth clothes with gold braid
and gold buttons on them. She said: s'I
first rake very hot bath, and then, after
the usual drying process, powder myself
well with the very best French powder
No, no starch for me. Then / put on the
llghtest of underwear, a silk skirt and
shirt waist. | am wise enough to have
sensible waist measurement; it is twenty
four, by the by, and so l am not drawing a
belt in and making my face as red as pos
slble. 1t always amuses me to think about
the women who lace; the judgment is so
certain and so sure. They not only get
red faces, but they get red noses, and the
red of their nose is the kind that comes to
stay. Oh, anybody can be cool If they
want to-" 1t was only the electrocution,
that beastly effect, that prevented the
elevator boy from killing her outright, for
every body cannot be cool
Talk about women being slaves of fash
ion-that's nonsense. Poor, benlghted
man doesn't dare put on straw hat, no
matter how hot the weather is, until
certain date has come about and the con-
sequence is that poor, benighted man is
hot. Hot with vengeance. Hot as the
honest worker in melodrama. Hot in
such way that he makes every BODY in
his home more uncomfortable. The family
wonder what is the matter with father.
This is the matter: As father is fool,
like most other men, he does not suit his
clothes to the thermometer, and he is
wearing a stiff shirt, heavy waistcoat,
equally heavy trousers, an ordinary win
ter coat and high silk hat. And that he
doesn't turn into grease spot is only be-
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

tracted by their reputation. 1t is true a
few years ago our smart men got their
clothes from London, and some, from
force of habit, like Hamilton Cary, con-
tinue to do so, but the bon ton of the
ieunesse doree, who devote study to the
subject. now find the American tailor
better in every respect than his London
rival. There is no disputing this state
ment. All the best turned-out men on
the avenue are the products of American
tailors."
Pajamas made of Chinese or Japanese
silks are more comfortable than those of
flannel or linen for both summer and win
ter wear, besides they stand rough hand
ling from the laundrymen very success
fully.
Hemstitched handkerchiefs with very
narrow borders are much liked. 1t is
positive fact that in the provinces in Eng
land scarlet evening coats are being worn
to informal little dances and dinners. At
times it looks as though conservative Eng
land would be the first to champion a
change in evening dress.
There is a move being made to Danish
brown kid walking boots, and doubtless
with this end in view a London boot
maker, recognizing also the craze for green,
is trying Ito rush." dark-green kid. laced
walking boots.
A firm of three popular lawyers in New
York recently gave an afternoon 'tea" in
their spacious apartments, which proved
to be tremendous success. The idea is an
excellent one from one point of view.
c. c.
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

cause the gentleman who relgns In tne
regions down below has other little terrorS.
waiting for him. 2
The woman of fashion doesn't have an
easy time when the hot days come. She
must live up to her reputation for hne
dressing, and 1T doesn't please her when-,
she realizes that drops of water, those lit
tie drops so aft sctionatelv sung about, are
slowly but surely travelling over her
cheeks, and making rather q confused
mess of the rouge and the powder and the
blue lines that she has so carefully ar
ranged. She doesn't look well unless size
has few soft curls on her forehead. and
no matter now closely they are curled;
this peculiar weather (decencv compels me
to call it by no stronger name) knocks out
all curls except those that nature has ar.
ranged.
| will tell you who are to be pitied these
hot days-the babies. TIE poor little
mites are swathed in flannel and folded in
huge cloaks. not allowed to hear because
of thick silk caps, and not allowed to
breathe because of thick lace wells. Those
baby lips would so like a sip of water, and
they cannot ask for it, If they cry, nine
times out of ten they are banged on the
back and jolted up and down until they
are almost ready for infantine insane
asylums. If they fairly yell in their de-.
sire for a cooling drink, nine more times
out of the proyerbial ten the end of g.
lOHS DldCk IuUc Is pOkSQ III tuSlI
and they suck up a liquid that is half
warm and half sour. and bound to bring
pains where pains are most unpleasant to
baby. .
Nobody ever thinks baby is thirsty
except for food; nobody ever thinks that,
when the thermometer is at 80, three flan=:
mel petticoats are too much for even a
baby. Do you suppose that a baby likes.
to have its lower flannel petticoat Tapped.
over and buttoned so that 1t doesn't cons
troll its legs? 1 wish society for the
proper dressing of babies in warm weather
could be started such a society would be
OF great deal more Importance than one.
that lends pictures or gives flowers to the,
dwellers in tenement-houses.
Who invented thermometers Satan, !.
am sure. Nobody would have had the art
when you feel uncomfortable, mussy,
warm, cross, and certain that it is huns
dred and two, to have that horrid thing
mark it only eighty-seven. 1t is hard to
pray in summer time, but here is fervent
prayer: "From too much heat and all its
attendant evils. good Lord, deliver -
BAB."
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

chine. bengaline moire "a decided novelty
and many mixtures of silk and wool
glaces. Mohair dresses are being trimmed
with lace and embroidery on the bodice.
Shirt waists hold their own so success
fully that novelties are being eagerly
sought in this department.
A very stylish waist will shortly be worn
by one of the prettiest girls here. 1t is of
fine batiste canary yellow in color,
trimmed with fine black embroidery. 1t
has detachable collar, and any one who
has once worn this style will decline in
future to wear any other. The same
maiden has shirt also of turquoise blue
batiste; narrow black laces edge its frills
and tucks. These smart shirts look ex-
ceedingly well when worn with coat and
skirt of black face cloth.
A fashionable matron in this City has a
shirt of oriental pique which has both
standup and rundown collars, and q
creamy-tinted batiste one with front
pleat, tucks and collar and cuffs of pale
blue. This is very dainty, but none are so
chic or quite such novelties as those of the
finest French muslin with exquisitely en-
broidered bands and fine linen collar and
cuffs. In Paris even these cost nearly So.
Some fetching toilets will shortly be
seen composed of chamoise cloth and
linen. The skirts are absolutely plain,
only the bodices affording the dressmaker
an opportunity of displaying some origin
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

atty. The collars are made of a wide
plain or chine ribbon passed round the
throat, and from each side extend two
pointed wings of lace finished off with a
tiny frilI of Valenciennes. These are some
times wired with thread-like wire so as
to make them stay in position.
connection of diagonal mohair, in the
new shade called cinderella" is worthy
OF admiration, as silvery light glints 10 and
fro among the folds of the ample skirt.
1t has Louie Quinze jacket, with large
revers OF white poult de sole, opening
over waistcoat of this same silk, which
is encrusted with rows of very narrow
Valenciennes. These rows are sewn next
to one another and the waist is but
toned with turquoise buttons, mounted in
gold, having round them pink enamel.
a dark blue canvas dress, having a mar.
row front of blue and white silk, is sem
sible costume. The foundation should be
distinct from the canvas and must be of
good silk-shot silk is the proper kind TO
use. A vest OF ecru, not figured, is more
generally becoming. 1t should be almost
covered with gathered tucks.
An Easter bride will be quite lovely in a
Paris gown of fine twill cloth of palest
fawn. 1t has beautiful vest and wrinkled
sleeves in olive brocade. patterned with an
amber green satin stripe and covered with
pink rosebuds ana their leaves. Cascades
of soft hlmy Limerick lace falls between
the cloth and brocade. Small tabs over
lap the vest and are finished with enam-
eled buttons, having q green ground on
which is a tiny but perfect rosebud.
l have had depicted an unusually hand
some toilette, com posed entirely of black
and white silk. The Zouave Jacket effect
is carried out in black velvet, and the vest,
cravat, epaulets and sleeve rnffs are of fine
lace. The zouave is outlined in ore-inch-
wide white ribbon, daintily embroidered
The arrangement of creamy lace over the
shoulders is especially good.
The early spring costume is a reproduc-
ton from French model, and consists of
"a close-fitting jacket bodice in plum
colored velvet, extending at the back as a
shawl-shaped basque, enhanced with gold
and spangied embroidery; waistcoat with
turned-down collar in biscuit-colored cloth
outlined with braiding pattern in two
shades fan-shaped jabot in cream pleated
lace; skirt in Peking peau-de-soie, crossed
down the front tablier breadth with robing
of plum velvet; Directoire hat in jetted
net. trimmed with shot ribbon and clusters
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

and treatment Of our necks, no longer are
we to tie bows at the back, so Paris says
they are to appear under our chins. How
ever, this decree has not been received
with enthusiasm, even by those who have
long, slender throats. Perhaps the reason
is that such bows are difficult to arrange,
but broad ribbon edged with good but
very narrow lace will, II properly handled,
be very fetching.
Ruches, huge affairs of chiffon, tulle,
net or lace, are being persisted in. despite
the fact that they are so generally disfg-
urlng; indeed, it seems to be the idea to
have our necks rival in circum ference our
waists. The result is neither beautiful
nor graceful. Ruffles of flowers are seen
and among the posies protrude colored
tabs; or they may appear over the top OF
the ruffies. Some women look decidedly
their best without any neckbands. Their
house dresses should ways be cut
slightly low and outlined with EN- broidery
of lace.
TuIle has taken the place of mousseline
de sole for ruches around the throat in a
great measure. 1t is used in all shades
and coIors, the black mousseline de sole
ruche being decidedly old-fashioned
Plain or spotted white tulle is principally
used. A great bow of white tulle softens
the hardest face and makes ordinary
people look almost pretty, as it has de-
hghtful effect on the complexion, and of
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

course when wells are worn they match
the tulie ruche or cravat.
Grebe is going to be favorite trimming
ere long, as it is most becoming, so next
winter we will find it in great demand.
One of the loveliest fichus designed for
a long time is of a silk gauze sprayed with
daffodils. 1t has a knife-pleated ruffie
surrounding it and balls of daffodils finish
the long ends.
Almost all bodices in light fabrics have
their fronts entirely covered with lace
sometimes appearing above a broad en-
pire band of black satin. For young girls
many bodices are made to lace up the
back.
For the summer Doucet will dress his
patronesses according to accepted models
OF the eighteenth century. However, he
does not intend to confine himself to the
French styles of that era, as many of his
most exquisite modes recall the gowns
worn by the English beauties who reigned
at this period, and were painted by
Gainsborough and Reynolds. He will
use great quantities of lace and the most
fashionable silks employed by this artist
are OF faded hues, as for the moment he
delights IL pale mauve, soft yellow, gray
and white. From this establishment the
skirts are all fiat and plain in front and
on the hips; at the back are godet pleats
ana the bodices are full, soft and in
definite; however, the waists composed
~ 'AS ~ lapllCo Sudrply outline the waist.
his lalior gowns are close-titting; sleeves
for all gowns are moderate and most of
the necks are finished with ruffs, cravats
or ruches, composed of tuile, gauze or
lace, or OF combination of lace and
gauze or lace and tulle. Doucet is using
Immense quantities of taffetas, moires
and shining mohairs, and his favorite
trimmings are lace, and the most beauti-
full and fantastic buttons of all sizes.
shapes and substances.
Paquln is equally determined that the
styles OF Louis XVI should remain in
vogue, but he also shows a liking os the
modes which existed between 1920 and
1S4O. However, these were not pretty nor
generally becoming, so his customers pre-
Ter his Louis XVI ideas. Skirts seen at
this establishment have scarcely varied It
all, being plain and close-fitting over the
hips for the daytime, but fuller for the
evening. He has diminished the size of
all of the sleeves recently made.
In Paris the materials most in demand
are shot taffetas, lowered silks, crepe de
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03
FOR MEN.

Bicycling and golf are in great vogue
East and quite excellent are the golf
stockings now to be had here. Shades of
brown are most popular. 1t is said in New
York that one out of every fifteen men
who wear golf costumes Knows the game.
The assortment of ties Is good, as far as
1t goes, at our leading stores, but the
variety is not extensive, one window be-
ing decorated with any number OF ties and
scarfs In blue, green and crimson, all of
whlch have white geometrical figure up
on them. The Scotch green will be much
seen all summer, but not the bright glar-
ing shade. The club ties so popular last
season will be even more so this, but they
are to be a trife narrower and will be
striped, Tor striped are also to be the
smartest shirts. White Ascots will be
much worn and Him writes: "One of
the novelties will be Khaki cloth. ] am
only informed of this and it does not come
from the very best of sources. This is a
species OF cotton. out of which the uni
forms OF Tommy Atkins for hot climates
is manufactured. 1t is proposed to have
knlckers and sack coats made of these.
The material is almost buff in color and it
resembles brown holland, which was very
successfully employed IN golf clothes last
summer"
The newest silk hats from London show
tendency toward the revival of the Chin
ney pot and have a gentle curve. Our
mats are said TO be unusually good in
quality and shape, and it is asserted that
they are lighter and more durable than
the English ones. If they hold their color
equally well imported ones will no longer
be In demand.
A writer in Vanity makes good remark
when he says that "There are some good
tallors In London, who fit and cut we'll,
but the majority do not, and especially
the most famous, who are never patronized
by the smart ser. but by foreigners at.
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03
LEAP YEAR.

Now they can leap,
The maidens dear,
And 90 1t with
Out any fear.
For is it not
The great good year
That most all girls
Now hold so dearf
And those who are
Of proper age
Should now embrace
Their privilege.
For dear leap year
VIII not come more
Till in your date
You see four.
So, Amazons,
Here is "a chance
Do not retreat,
But all advance. -Peck's Sun,
The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03

DIR. JOHN A. MILLER, author of "Femina,"R 8
book for home treatment for women. gives free
consultations to women and children from q
to P M. at his Polytechnic Pharmacy, 101S Va
lencia street, corner Hill. Agents wanted for
"Femina."
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-02-04
CorFEE MARKET

New York. Feb. COFFEE options steady
al bfplJ points decline. ruled active but
weak and regular under bsarish EuTgp-
can cables. closed easy az net decline
OF cya55 points. sales. 400 bags. including
March. 81 10I le.31. and closed 5000 ~ 20.
February. So 30ri29l.
Spot CofTec-itio dull Miit QUA and
nominal; sales. 100 bags Mara"aibo >. @.
Sant0s-Duu. good average santos a.
SiO0: receipts. 500. stock. at2 80 tags.
HamhurE-Quict. unchanged 10 a pfea-
mig decline. sales. 5000 bags
Havre-Cl0sed irregular at 20 81. franc
net decline, sales. 5000 bags.
RiO-Steady. NO. Z RIO -. $40. exchange.
o. I'd: receipts 300 bags. cleared for Eu-
rope. !. ooJ bags. stock. -. go bags
Warehouse deliveries from New YORK
Saturday. 600. New York stock today.
2SS[; United States stock. $3.50 bags.
anoac for the United States. 9G.6O bass;
total visible for the United states, 49, 90
bags, against $3.50 ba4,s last year.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-02-04

slider it superior to the somewhat SINH
lar lecture of Professor w. VI. r.
French, especially in point of humor
while his drawings were certainly as
well executed.
Possessing none of the dryness Of
many lectures, I It's frightened by q
pleasant vein of wit and humor, in fact
the audience is kept laughing from the
beginning to the end; and the easy
agreeable manner of the speaker is
very gratifying. 1 have no hesitancy in
recommending him to all that desire a
first class entertainments
CARL L. COOPER,
President of Newton Lecture Course
Committee.
WHAT THE MARION RECORD SAYS
J. Franklin Caveny entertained our
people Wednesday evening at the NJ. z.
church under the auspices Of the Ep-
worth League, with one Of his inimita-
e chalk talks. He is a young man,
scarcely out Of his teens, but a genius
in his lire. He was certainly made for
a public lecturer. He has the faculty
and the ability in an eminent degree to
amuse entertain and edify an audience.
He is a thorough elocutionist-his hu-
NOR is fine, his elOquence sublime and
his chalk delineations superb. He will
undoubtedly, in the future, rank rank
among the brightest and best popular
characterization Record.
At the First Presbyterian church,
Wednesday, Feb. 5. General admission
10 cents.
OSCAR ELIASON.
Beach and Bowers Minstrels follow
EHason at the Crawford Grand, appear
ing Thursday night. The prices for
their appearance have been made 50
and so cents for reserved seats, not on
account of amp inferiority OF the per-
Torrance but as an experiment to see
if it is on account Of hard times that
business in the state has been bad.
Seats go on sale this morning. We clip
from an exchange the following in re-
gard to the performance:
A Fine Performance-The perform
ance given by Beach & Bowers min
strels at Fosters Opera House last ev-
ening, gave entire satisfaction. The
house was fairly we'll filled with people
who became very enthusiastic before
the evening closed. Were a second per-
Torrance to be given there is no ques-
ton that the opera house would be
packed In part /. Of the program there
was as fine singing as has been heard
on the stage here for several months
The quartette, which rendered especi-
ally fine music. deserves special men
ton. Part II. was opened by one of the
most wonderful contortionists that ever
visited the city. Those who were in at
tendance and Witnessed his marvellous
featS universally concede that he could
by far discount any one they had ever
seen. The musical team amused every
one by playing on all sorts of instru-
mentS, and Lew Tatum. who could on
" stop a short time, convulsed the au-
dience. The champion drill was re-
peatedly encored. The dancing was far
above the rage.-Des Moines Daily
Register