davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
ALL ABOUT WOOL.
pREPARING THE STAPLE FOR
THE MARKET.
s'sortina" the Sheared Wool in the
Mills-Scouring, Drsin and Dye
ing = Blending and Mixing -
What Wool Loses in Weight.

HHE three principal natural
fibers which are used in the
manufacture of fabrics, says
the Chicago Record, are cot
ton, silk and wool, and under mag
nifying glass the three are seen to vary
widely in structure. Cotton is veg
etable fiber, which Aattens and twists
when il dries, for il is tubular in it's
form and this fat twist gives it the
holding quality needed in textile
fibers.
A silk filament is almost dead smooth
on its sur face, but wool is barbed, its
scales form little hooks which catchlin-
to each other, and easily make "felt"
without weaving or twisting.
Wool is classed in two orders-long
staple and short staple. The long
staple wool is less barbed and the
fbers are smoother and longer, and
are Strengthened by comb" and
hence ore called "combing" wools.
The short staple woods are called card.
ing" woods because they cannot be
Strengthened by combing, but are
treated by "cnrds," which are some
thing like curry combs.
Before a sheep has its wool clipped
from its back it is we'll washed, and rs
much dirt as possible is taken from
the wool. This is done by dipping the
sheep in water, either of q running
stream or in large box in which the
men stand waist deep. The sheep is
plunged under the water, and the wool
is squeezed, pressed and rubbed, and
then the washed sheep is kept in a
clean place until the wool is dry.
Sheep shearing is done in tbs barn
or in a shed set apart for thatpurpose,
and the shearers are so expert that,
with their springed sheep shears, they
clip the wool so that it comes off in
one mass, like cotton batting.
The sheep is laid on low table or
on the floor, and the shearer, begin
ming at the breast, clips one side up
to the backbone, and then turning the
sheep on its other side shears that & ide.
The fleece is collected and baled for
market. "Pulled" wool is wool taken
from pelts which are first treated with
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

silk and covered with all.over batiste
embroidery, a frill Of embroidered edg-
ing being wired to stand up around the
neck. The full puffs are arranged over
comfortable sleeve Innings that reach
below the elbow, where they are COM
pleted with cuff bands and deep frlll
OF embroidery to match neck. The
full back is shirred in evenly spaced
rows under the collar IN back, and
hangs in graceful Vatican folds to the
foot OF skirt. Gowns by the mode can
be developed in less expensive mate
rial, or in the costliest brocades, with
shimmering net over satin front.
Stripped and plain batiste, figured
and plain lawn, dimity or other cotton
wash fabrics will make up daintily
with decoration OF lace or embroid-
ery.
The quantity Of material A inches
wide required to make the tea gown
for lady having 36inch bust meas
ure is Ct yards. The hints are by May
Manton.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

Blending and mixing are two dis.
tinct operations. for blending is done
after the wool is dyed to secure plain
colors, and mixing may be done be-
fore the wool is washed.
In blending the woods are spread in
layers on the floor, or "bedded," as it
is called. The blender first expert
ments by taking certain proportions
of the different colors and making an
intimate combination by carding the
wools with hard carder. He weighs
out each color and adds or takes away
until he has the proper blend.
Then, knowing the proper proper
tions, he weighs out the wool in quan
titles and it is bedded on the floor,
each layer of one color. While the
woo'is on the blending floor it is
spra, I'd with oil, for, as the natural
grease were removed in washing the
wool, tLfy must be restored else the
fibers will be wiry and harsh and be
apt to break.
Lard or olive oil is used for oiling
the wool, and then the real blending
is done by the "teaser." The wool is
taken from the edge Of the beds and
fed into the machine, which is q COM
bination of drums and smaller cylin-
ders, thickly studded with pins which
open the wool, pull it apart and thus
mix all the colors together.
A blast of mir which continually
plays upon the wool in the teaser aids
the Intervening spikes and pins to
open the wool, and it is finally deliv-
cred in soft feecv clouds to the stor-
age bin ready to be spun into yarn.
Washing and beating the wool re-
moves the dirt and dust, but does not
take out the burrs and other prickly
seeds which are picked up by the
sheto in its pasture. These must be
removed either mechanically or chem
ically.
In the Satter case the wool is treated
to certain scids which burn out the
vegetable natter, but do not touch
the animal fiber. For removing the
burrs and seeds mechanically the wool
is fed into machine which spreads it
out In thin sheets.
This is done by q drum, studded
with metal points, which spreads the
wool apart 80 that the blades OF the
"knocker-otf' can beat upon every part
Of the sheet aud break the burrs into
pieces that are shaken down into the
dust boz beneath the machine.
Wool loses great deal of its weight
in the processes to which it is subjected d
In preparing it for the spinning mill.
One-third OF its weight is lost when il
il washed on the sleeps back. and an.
other third Il lost In the securing pro.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

II the wool is to be dyed black it is
first treated for two hours to bath Of
vitriol, potash and red tartar. After
this preliminary bath the wool is
rinsed off in clear water and dried in the
air and il is then ready for the black
dye, which is made of logwood and
fustic.
The chips of these woods are packed
in bags and boiled in water for some
time. The mixture is allowed to cool
before the wool is plunged in and then
the steam is turned on again, and the
wool is kept in the boiling dye until
the proper depth OF black has been at
tanned.
The dyer, by squeezing sample
and holding 1t to the light, tells when
the color is just right. Then the dye
liquor is run of and clear water is sent
through the wool until it is well rinsed.
The wool is next sent back to the cen
trifugal dryer and aIterward thoroughly
dried by hot air or steam heat.
Woods are mixed because, to secure
desired quality of cloth, it is neces-
sary to combine different "staples. "
American woods are mixed with foreign
woods, and with cotton and silk and
shoddy, and this mixing requires great
skill and thorough knowledge OF the
business.
Woods OF different colors are blended
to make mixed color, and browns,
grays and other plain colors are secured
by blending together woods OF different
dyes.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
FASHIONS REALM.
NEW AND DAINTY DEVICES FOR
WUSlEN's APPAREL.
Latest Collars, Ruffs and Collarettes--
Pretty Tea Gowns of Persian
Silk - Felt Hats for
Gair Cyciers.

T7HE collars, ruffs, collarettes
and short capes this season
are very elaborate. Even the
simplest of them have some
new addition. The white satin stock
now has upright wings OF accordion
plated lace that rise from the inside
of the collar. White satin loops fin.
ish it on the back and sides. One OF
the boas that is becoming TO slight
neck is made of very full, loose plait.
ings of black chiffon. 1t stands WY
out beyond the ears. and is finished in
front, where IL ends in long, full
strings, with punches Of violets. An
other variation of these dainty novel;
ties is the Eliznbethan ruff in chiffon,
which is very high in the back and
very low in the front. 1t is finished
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

cess. Some wools lose so much weight
that less than twenty-five per cent. OF
the original weight remains when the
wool is fed into the last storage bin.
In q modern mill the washing,
securing and rinsing, which follow the
opening of the bale OF wool in the
sorting-room, are oil done in one ma.
chine, which takes in the wool on a
travelling carrier and delivers IL clean
and nearly dry at the other end.
But the sorting, dyeing, mixing and
blending must be done by hand, for
in those four stages manual skill and
individual Judgment are recessary to
secure satisfactory results.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
0nsze@szo:.:&s&
So
Japan's Ancient Banking Huusc.
4. The rest is silence.

Commercial houses which have ex.
listed for over 100 years are by no
means common in Europe. and quite
rare in this country. 1t is curious to
note that commercial houses q hun
dred or more years old are quite fre.
quent in China and japan, where a
great many firm, have for centuries
been handed down from father to SOD,
and remained in tie family. The old.
est existing business il probably q
japanese banking house, at Kobe,
which has for more than $50 years
been in the hands OF one and the same
family, the style OF the firm not hav-
ing changed once in this long period.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

fronts are fitted with single bust darts,
under.arm and side hack CORES COM
pleting the smooth adjustment at the
sides. The full fronts are faced in centre
with yellow silk and covered with the
batiste, closing at the left side under
the revere or collar. The top is shirred
in evenly spaced rows Of gathers with
q heading. Three rows OF insertion
trim the foot, one on each side mark.
Ing the edge OF the different material.
The broad sailor collar il made Of the
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
TEA GOWN OF PERSIAN SILK.

In the second large illustration soft
striped Persian silk is stylishly united
with sheer linen batiste. over yellow
s,lR, and decorated with fine batiste
.ll-over embroidery and insertion to
match. The handsome gown, although
Elaborate in effect. is so simple in de-
tail that the most inexperienced will
find no difficulty in realizing gown
iust like the picture. The lining
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
trimmed with black ribbon and spec.
kled feathers.
JEwELIY THAT IS WORN.

vEWEIisl THAT 10 WUIN'
Jewelry was never more exquisite
than now. Turquoises and garnets and
blue, white, yellow, pink and green
enamel are used in many silver arti.
oles with dainty effect. Sleeve but
tons and studs of silver have on en-.
ameled square or oirols OF white en-
amel. with tiny colored flower.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

Of moicture from the fleece. The dry
Ing is completed by spreading the
Rool over frames OF wire net in the
Eaught OF warm-air blast, or else
breading the wool on the Stats of q
hveling carrier which moves slowly
Pr steam pipes.
Wool 10 oolored by boiling it in the
stun for several hours. The dye.
room II full Of great watts from
oh stsam and queer smelling va
constantly riss. The men who
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

CANVAS TRAVELLING GOWN.
A travelling gown OF string colored
canvas, designed for coming bride,
is shown by fashionable modiste.
The skirt is trimmed at the hem with
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
Remarkable Case Of Manslaughter.

Nune Mack, soulptress in Paris.
had boy for model. She put wet
plaster on HIM to make o mold, and
he took cold and died. She was
charged with manslaughter, but, be.
ing acquitted, his father Is suing her
for $4,000 damages,
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
HOT.wATER HEATING.
The Ideal System of Warming Resi-
dences in Town and Country.

dences in Town and Country.
Hot-water heating for dwellings has
some prominent advantages that have
done much to establish IL firmly in
favor. 1t is the safest, for one thing,
and it provides the most equable tenn
perature, as IL can be carried long
distance horizontally. II is very
easily regulated, and the matter of at
tendance is reduced to q minimum,
which is no small consideration. There
is no circulation of dust, which is the
inevitable concomitant of hot-air heat
ing. To get the very best results a
hot water plant should be installed in
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

Interior Finish: Hard white plas-
ter; cellar ceiling plastered one heavy
coat. Soft wood flooring throughout.
Trim in hall and bedroom, oak; in
library and dining-room, cherry /;
elsewhere, soft wood. Main staircase,
oak. Picture molding in principal
rooms and hall OF first story. Panel
backs under windows in psrlors, Ii
brsry and dining-room, bathroom
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

three rows of braid of the same color;
the coat has Norfolk plaits at the back.
opening in front over vest of Persian
silk, with taffeta frills edged with lace
jaboted down either side.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

The two hats sketched are examples Of
the most popular shapes for cyclers.
The one is of drab with rosette Of
ribbon placed at the base of o group
of pheasants' quills, the other Of
brown, lined with black felt and
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27
FELT HATS FOR CYcLsBs.

The plain felt hat is pre-eminently
suited to her who wheels, says the
New York Commercial Advertiser.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1896-05-27

work in this room do SO at great
sacrifice to personal appearance, for
their hands and arms are stained with
the dyes and their boards and hair do
uot escape the coloring matter.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Local Department.
r. w. Broughton is in Chicago.

r. w. Broughton is in Chicago.
Harry Showerman was in Chicago
last week.
Frank Young has returned to the
university.
Franc Grannis is home from Red
Bluff, Mont.
DR.. Cronin of Bangor was in town
one day last week.
H. M. Olney of Hartford was in town
on business, Thursday.
Attorney j. w. Adams of Kalamazoo
was in town the latter part of last week.
The glee club will sing at the repub-
lican rally in Almena Saturday even
ing.
Col. and Mrs. j. q. Todd of Bangor
were guests at Emory Balls over Sun
day.
Editor Lewis of the Lawton Leader
was caller at the NoRTHERNER office
Monday.
Regular meeting of Paw Paw Lodge,
No 25, +. and A. M, Tuesday evening,
Oct. Goth
Married, by Justice Mason, Felix
Rassett to Mrs. Carrie Goss, both OF
Hartford.
H.C. Waters has so far recovered as
to be able to be at the store portion
of the time.
MIR. Leo Fluette, former resident Of
this place, has returned to his home at
Charlevoix, Mich.
j. 1. Breck of Jackson was in town
over Sunday. Mrs. Breck has been
here for several days.
Rev. NJ. s, Waller was called to Cass
County, Sunday, to attend the funeral
of former parishoner.
A council meeting was held Monday
evening. No business was transacted
except the auditing of bills.
The w. G. T. u will meet at the
home of Mrs. Lena Pritchard, Thursday
afternoon Oct. 18th, at 2;30.
VIM. Pugsley went to Ann Arbor last
week, to have an operation performed
Mrs. Pugsley accompanied him.
The Coterie will meet with Mrs
Emma T. Rooms, Wednesday, Oct. a.
Roll call, Housekeeping helps"
jeff Chaffee displays Mckinley and
Hobart streamer at the top of 6O-foot
pole, at his home north of town.
Prof. 5. b. Harvey of Hillsdale col
lege filled the Free Baptist pulpit last
Sunday, in the absence of the pastor.
II. j Loveland has left at this Office
some samples of Nebraska corn that
will be of interest to our farmer friends
II. G.. Waters e. Co. intended tC
change their adv. this week. but die
not get around to do so. Watch for ;
large stove adv. next week.
Ed. Coy was surprised on Wednes
day evening last by visit from large
number of his friends, TO celebrate hi
21st birthday. Supper was served.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
q. f. THOMPSON. NJ. D.. G. M.
Physician and Surreon.

Doctor of Medicine and Master of Sur
gerry, Trinity University, Toronto, Can
ada. Fellow of Trinity Medical School,
Toronto, Canada. Licentiate King and
Queens College of Physicians, Dublin,
Ireland. Late resident physician of
Coombs Hospital, Ireland.
SPECIALITY - All acute and chronic
diseases, and diseases of women.
Residence and Office in the house
formerly occupied by the late DR.. M. h..
whalen, Main st. All calls promptly
attended, day or night. Office consulta-
ton free. Office hours-9 to IL a. M,
to and to 9p. m. soft
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Fine ShOrthOrn Bull
For Service at F. Bilsborrow's. cot

DR.. r. w. Baker, scientific optician
of Benton Harbor, will be at the Clifton
house on Thursday and Friday, Oct Is
and 16. Glasses accurately fitted and
warranted. Eyes examined and tested
without charge. Ample proof as to
reliability furnished.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
The leading fire insurance companies
represented by
2l54tf +. + PARKS.
Painting. Paper Hanging. Etc.

We are now prepared to execute orders
for house and carriage painting, paper
hanging, glazing, &c, &c. Shop in
Mason mill Leave orders at shop or
at Dyckman House.
36tf1 j. A. LEECH q Son.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Cider Making.

For the balance of the season, will
make cider every day except Sundays.
Price one penny per gallon.
56tfl b. w. HIPP, Almena.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
New millinery.

Our new fall stock of millinery has
arrived and we invite the ladies to in
spectit. The new styles are lovely, and
prices were NEVER so Low.
Respectfully,
Mrs. NJ. l.. O'DELL.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

Schedule OF Teachers Examinations
for IS96-'97.
Regular 1915, '96. Bangor.
Specialized. 1920, '97, Decatur.
Regular-March 25-26, '97, Paw Paw.
Regular-.June 1913, '97, Bloomingdale.
Work begins at 8 a. m. Candidates
must be present at that time.
j. A. O'LEARY, Com'r of Schools.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Apples Wanted.

We want to buy 100,0 barrels of
No. apples and will pay the highest
market price therefor. 216Stf
w. A. PRATER q l.. Z. SHEPARD.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Fine Property for sale Cheap.

Ten-room house, large grounds, fruit
and shade in abundance, everything in
good order, splendid location. Long
time on one. half of the purchase money
53tf L. j. CAvANAUGH.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Horses for sale.

Eight or ten good work horses for
sale. Time given to responsible pur-
chasers. Enquire of q. Z. Gilman or
j. w. Free, Paw Paw, Mich. 40tf
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
THOMAS j. CAvANAUGH,

Office over First Natl Bank, Paw Paw.
Money to loan on real estate. 1927
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
George l.. Bruner.

Contractor, Builder, and Building
Moving. All kinds of plain and fancy
stone work done. Will take contracts
for all kinds of building repairing, also
contracts for new work, and furnish
everything. Satisfaction guaranteed.
30tfl GEO. l.. BRUNER.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

The fashionable milliners, have an ell
egant assortment of new fall goods that
they are ready to show TO the trade.
They will have trimmed hats on exhibit
tion Friday and Saturday. Hair work
done to order. Butter and eggs taken
in exchange for goods.
43tfl MARSHALL IL GARDNER.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Buffers City BUS Line.

Orders for private houses should be
left at the Post Office. We never miss
the train. &. Z. BUTLER, Prop. 52tf.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Bakery and Lunch Re

Bakery and Lunch Room.
Leave your orders for
ICE CREAM
TO be delivered at your home for Sun
day dinner.
Choice Confectionery.
Fresh Baked Goods.
Pure Family Groceries.
f. A. FOSTER.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
BUSINESS NOTICES.
a.. a. CritchIow, NJ. ID.

Homeopathic Physician and Surgeon.
Office over Broughton's store-former
office of Andrews & Woodman. SLY
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
or sale.

or sale.
A farm of 100 acres located one mile
north and onehalf mile east of Bloom
ingdale, Michigan. Will sell cheap for
cash, or will give time on part if de-
sired. THos. CLARAGE ~ Son,
3Stf] Kalamazoo, Mich.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

J.C. Maxwell. Physician a Surgeon.
Special attention to diseases of the
eye. Glasses properly fitted. Office in
rooms formerly occupied by DR.. Dun
ming. Office hours: 10 to l2 a. m, 2 to
and $50 to $50 p m. 2l07ly
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

Two Good Farms
For sale on easy terms by the Paw Paw
Savings Bank. 42tf
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

Money.
Money TO loan on real estate.
13tf. H. l.. Mcneil.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
- w.C.Y. Ferguson. ID. ID. -.
Dental ParlOrs.

All operations, including Crown and
Bridge work. rendered as painless as
possible. Office in Longwell Block,
2O93ly1 Paw Paw, Mich.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

Attorneys at Law. Special attention
given to collections. Mortgages nego.
tiated and money loaned on real estate
Office over Paw Paw Savings Bank. T7S
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

A. Lynn Free. Lawyer
Office over Averys store, Paw Paw.
Michigan. I24tf
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

The ladies of the Coterie will give a
unique campaign supper" at Long.
wells opera house, Friday evening,
Oct. 80.
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
w. l. Johnson. ". d.. ". 4

Graduate Ontario Veterinary College.
Calls promptly attended to. Charges
reasonable Office at Longwell Bros
drug store, Paw Paw, Mich. T2041-ly
The true northerner., 1896-10-14

j. F. Perry, dentist, will visit Paw Paw
every Wednesday. Regulating teeth
and crown and bridge work speciality
Office with DR.. Critchlow. TAT!
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Titus Il Mcneil
Anderson Il Oh ase

Attorneys at Law, Abstract building
Law, insurance and collections. S2lJ
The true northerner., 1896-10-14
Heckert g. Chandler,

Attorneys and Solicitors. Do general
law business Paw Paw. Mich. re
Belding banner. (Belding, Mich.) 1889-1918, 1896-03-19
WOODS CORNERS.

Mr.. Colt is slowly improving.
Mr.. and Mrs. Kinds are in feeble
health.
The Piper school has closed and also
the lyceum.
Miss Ivy Greenop was the guest Of
Miss Loie Wood, Sunday.
The county Changers will meet at
the Woodland Lake Grange, Friday
afternoon.
The masquerade social at Fred Hoyt's
was largely attended and all report an
enjoyable time.
Mrs. Herb Smith and Mrs. F.. Little
took the first degree of the Woodland
Lake Grange, last Friday.
Look out for an early spring as the
humble bees are buzzing around the
house plants Of Woods Corners.
Earl Wood OF Fairplains returned
home, Saturday, after spending few
days with his grandmother, Mrs. II.
Wood.
Belding banner. (Belding, Mich.) 1889-1918, 1896-03-19
SHILOH,

School has closed for a couple OF
weeks.
A. Canovan was in Ionia on business,
Wednesday.
Mrs. J. KATE OF Bedding was in the
city, Monday.
Mr.. and Mrs. Henry Decker called
on G. II. Brown, Sunday.
Mrs. j. j. Anderson spent Saturday
with Mrs. G.. w. Brown.
+. w. Mavnard's brothers have re-
turned home to Hastings.
Miss Nora Closer Of Orleans Centre
is working at Geo. Corners.
j. Moore OF Ionia was in this vicinity
buying cattle, last Saturday.
F. l.. Comstock has returned home.
He has been at Detroit for a few days.
Mrs. f. M. Johnson and son, Mate,
visited in the vicinity of Grattan. last
week.
Miss Julia Hull OF Ionia has been
spending few days with Benz. Com
stock.