The Republican journal., 1896-03-12
The Republican Journal Thursday Morning March H. 1885,

AHS l\SPuUllNdlI ~
travel to the steepest mountain of all. the
rlco GAS Freires. Hardened as we are to
mountain climbing, at the first sight Of
us perpendicular sides we sat down on
the ground and declared that descent was
impossible. But presently remembering
that what man has done man NAV do
again." and woman, too. if she will.
our courage returned not to the extent of
trying the hammocks, however. Grasp
ing each others hands, half the bearers
holding us back from the rear and tho
rest going in front to stay too rapid de-
scent, we slid down measureless ;nc]ines
into the valley of San Vincente. which is
said to be 5000 feet below, but firmly
believe it is nearer three million San
Nincente is the finest of the cultivated
gorges of Madeira. On the opposite side
of the valley Paul de Sierra rises abont
5000 feet. In the centre of the valley
whose beauty beggars description. rises A
natural terrace, on the edge of which is a
quaint inn. Closely grouped mountains
enclose the idyllic spot on three sides by
a tremendous forest clad wall. MINER
Gus streams dance down to the valley
and on the fourth side, through a gate
way in the mountain. the ocean is seen
surf of the trade winds and chanting n
thunderous monotone. The longer time
permits the traveller to stay in San
Nincente, the better for him. When he
must tear himself away, he proceeds to
the shore through a narrow passage in
the lava cliffs, and for a mile or Two
keeps on level with the sea. Then the
road assumes quite another character
The whole north coast of Madeira is a
series of perpendicular cliffs, divided here
and there by ravines, sometimes present
ing narrow shelf at the base of the
rocks, but nowhere anything like a sandy
beach. Until recently there was no way
from San Vincente to the next important
valley, called Seixal, except by boats in
calm weather OF by perllous goat paths
over the mountains. Now the new road,
which was hewed by pickax and gun
powder out of solid rocks in the YER
tical faces of the cliffs, affords third,
but hardly more desirable method
of communication. The road, at an
average elevation Of $50 feet above the
sea, with precipice towering above it, is
scarcely more than five feet wide, and in
some places hardly yard, and is unpro-
tected by any parapet on the seward
side. We blessed our stars that we were
not on donkey back. 1t gives one a creepy
feeling to come to an angle on the noun
tain side SO abrupt that ones hammock
bearers stand on opposite sides of it, while
one, lying in the frail network of reeds or
rope, is actually suspended in mid-air
over the surf that thunders far below.
Occasionally a waterfall, having a plunge
of a thousand feet or more, disputes the
right of way, and the road is tunnelled
under it. Again romantic gorge crosses
the pathway, and down one goes to the
bottom of it, then up on the other side.
The usual way from San Nincente to
Funchal is by the seward route to Santa
Anna. The road is much like that to
Sexal except that it is never quite so mar
row and in the worst places a low parapet
makes it passable for horses. But ii is a
up to an elevation of 1 900 feet, where
one needs cool head to look over the
parapet into the ocean sureing below, .
From Santa Anna to Funchal, by way Of
the Lamoceiros pass, is another nevel-to-
be-torgotten experience. Having wound
up the steep sides of Mount Courtado at
the summit Of the razor-like bridge you
come without warning to cut, :, 900 feet
deep, with the ocean laundering directly
below. Ahead rises the rock of Penha
d Aguia, eagles Eyry), a cube of vol
canic stone as high as Gibralter, nearly
perpendicular on all sides and projecting
into the sea. On one side of the Penha is
the village of Fayal; on the other side
Porta de Cruz, each on small bay, into
which the long rollers of the Atlantic
tumble with mighty force at all seasons
of the year. Between the two villages is
a zigzag road around the face of the cliff,
very narrow and frightfully steep, and en-
tirely unprotected by anything like a
parapet.
The longer one remains in Madeira the
more reluctant he is to leave it, and the
more convinced that neither language nor
pencil can possibly exaggerate its mex
haustible beauty and variety, its grandeur
OF scenery and perfection of climate. But
all things earthly must have an end, and
to- day we are off for Teneriffe.
FANNIE B. WARD.
Put him on the chool Committee.