Omaha daily bee., 1896-08-30
EnShiOn Notes.

II N"s>'r
Alpaca retains its popularity for summer
riding.
Skirts are changing considerably, both in
the manner of making and in the dimen-
sions.
A pretty morning dress of blue and white
striped linen de sole has three bias pipings
of the stripe on the skirt.
White muslin is far prettier lined with fine
white organdy than with silk, for 1t has a
much more transparent and fluffy appear
ance.
In London shirt waists of fine cloth in
pretty monochromes or French flannel In
fancy stripes and checks are finished with
linen collars and cuffs.
Loosely draped sashes are charming with
muslin gowns on very slight figures for
youthful wearers, and are now almost a
necessity for a complete toilet.
The daintiest summer bolero jackets are
turned back with white embroidery or hand
| some appliques cut from net-top Russian
! laces and laid on ecru muslin or linen lawn
of exquisite texture.
Yokes of velvet or l~ustrous silk laid in
deep tucks across the chest from shoulder
to shoulder are a feature of fall fashions In
waists, and In some instances the forearm
OF the sleeves matches the yoke material.
Skirts made of silk or woollen fabric are
SCARCELY ever lined now, but II necessary are
mounted on a foundation skirt cut much the
! same, though not quite SO full, as the out
side skirt, and Joined to 1t only at the
belt.
A new invention called the zouave skirt,
has Just shown itself. It has a simple
device by which boomers can be at once
| changed into a divided skirt when required,
and so the rider is always ready for any
emergency.
Belts and sashes are all-important features
of costumes. Closely folded belts as deep as
a corselet are very graceful and must nj
the wearer like a glove. When MADE OF SIX
or satin such a belt can be worn with any
gown.
A pretty thin cycling suit can be made OF
heavy linen with pique facing to the coat
and worn with a colored skirt. For long
rides a very useful suit is a tweed skirt, a
thin flannel shirt and a Norfolk jacket made
| with a yoke.
One of the most fashionable bodices now
worn is the short bolero or zouave jacket, OF
which there are many types. one MADE OF
embroidered grass linen, edged with a tiny
pIeating of cream silk muslin. Is a delight
full finish to a light silk or muslin gown.
A white pique costume made in the fashion
has a large sailor collar of ecru linen EN-
broidered in white and edged with a tiny
lace-edged frill of linen, which gives a
quaint effect to the jacket, that opens over d
blouse front of the linen laid in three EN-
broidered box pleats,
As the fall season advances velvet ribbon
in black and pretty autumn foliage coiors
will be in great use both with dressmakers
and milliners. Every width manufactured
will be utilized and the ribbon will decorate
gowns and waists both for day and evening
wear.
Among the novelties in evening sleeves
are those of Victoria silk trimmed. with
chiffon frills. The lower portion flares out In
a gauntlet cuff, is then tight fitting to the
armhole, and has a puff at the top so draped
in the center that 1t reveals the entire upper
portion of the coat sleeve.
A sleeve with a close forearm has a wrist
frill OF accordion pleated mousselaine de
sole and is topped off at the shoulder with a
pun daintily finished with many rows OF hne
French stirring in 1880 style. The pun is
shirred again above the elbow, but the
shirring is turned under, with no frill left
as a finish.
A stylish gown for early autumn wear is
formed of sheer grass linen, made up over
cerise satin ribbons, including shoulder bows
and a belt with many loops and ends. The
side below a pointed yoke OF embroidered
linen finished with a twist of the ribbon
ending on either side OF the yoke In a small
rosette.
The majority of the most fashionable cor
sages are either seamless and drawn over
glove-htting Innings or merely fitted with
side forms, with the immediate front and
back shirred or pleated. II is of less conse-
quence, however. than formerly how per-
fectly they are adjusted after the lining has
been fitted, since the actual bodice Is now
merely a foundation for elaborate decoration,
under which 1t is nearly hidden from sight.
In jacket shapes for the autumn both
loose and fitted forms will be favored. The
collars will be high standing bands finished
with rufus, falling frills, tabs, Vandyke
points, wing piece. crenelated bands Of
velvet and other fancy shapes formed and
decorated to conform with the rest OF the
coat. The sleeves as a rule are OF the modi-
fled mutton-leg shape, finished either with a