The record-union., 1896-09-27
RAIMENT FOR MEN.
What the Fashionable Ones Will Wear
This Fall.
Brown Will be the Favorite Color
Among Well Dressed Men
This Year.

anu upper Broadway OutftterS' WIN
dcws during the last week The au-
tumn fashions in mems wear have in
the main been decided upon by the rep
reSentatlve artist merchant tailorS of
the metropolis, and it is the opinion that
the approaching season will be produc-
tive OF a greater variety of fabrics and
novel colorings than for many years.
This fall is especially notable for the
richness of shades in browns, brown
green's and other hues of the latter color.
blues, blacks, grays, etc., will, of course,
find their devotees, but the real swell
dresser will guide his tendency of favor
toward brown and green tint fabrics.
In overcoatings and plain coatings
there is practically no end to the choice
Of materials, the assortment being
larger than for decade of years. AS
for fancy suitings and trouserings the
variety, intricacy of design, boldness of
effect and uniQueneSs of the stripes,
checks, plaids and combinations of the
three features would require page of
the Herald for adequate description.
There will be but few blacks used in
overcoatings, these staples being super
Seded by blues, browns, green's, brown
green's, grays, silvers and bronze mix
lures. Moderately rough fabrics in
lambs woods and cheviots are pre-
ferred. Ingenious weaves in lambs wool
fancy diagonals are shown. Twill worst
ed-clear cut and fairly wide-vicunas,
worsteds vicunas and worsted cheviots
in plain twill, basket leaves, mayo, dia-
mond and barothea weaves and coverts,
Venetians and light weight meltons also
figure in the favored class. For great
coats, which are called in requisitiOn
about midwinter, close finished fur bea-
vers, mixed sables, paletots and frosty
beavers, curl finished furs, pushes and
astrakhans, pinhead and small, curl ely
slams, Be1gravias and eiderdoWns are
the fabrics most employed.
For ulsterS or storm coats Irish frie-
zes and rough Shetlands are in excel
lent demand, and for riding and driving
patent beavers and kerSeys, meltons,
buckskins, waterproofs and tweeds
show active inquiry.
In evening dress fabrics finer, softer
and more beautiful blacks are diStin-
gushing features. Favorite materials
are twills, plain, sharp raised, dress,
corkscrew and whipcord in the finest of
worsteds, some of which are dull or
dead faced; undressed worsted twills,
Worsted broadcloths, dress vicunas, vi
cuna hopsacks, Thibets, dress GRANTEES,
dress crepes-all of which are used for
the complete suit, although the trouser-
ings are generally a trifie heavier than
coat and vest.
White silk and Marseilles vestings
are favored to such a degree that it has
come to be considered to be old fogyish
to wear the black waistcoat with even
ing dress, except on certain occasions,
when the white vest would be obviously
out of order.
The most popular fabrics for double
breasted and cutaway frocks and their
accompanying vests, for day and half
dress, are lambs wool, worsted cheviot
and their combinations, as, for instance,
worsted cheviots and worsted vicunas,
which in weave, finish and coloring
seem infinite in variety. Swell weaves
are distinct and indistinct, narrow, me-
dunn and wide twill and diagonals, chain
diagonals, basket, diamond, hopsack,
whipcord, fine herringbone, bird's-eye,
pin check and granite.
The principal colorings comprise
browns in many dark shades, brown
green mixtures, novel effects in pea
cock green combinations, and the usual
blacks, blues and grays. Cheviots, in
bold and neat diagonal patterns, fine
wool, but rough homespuns, undressed
worSteds, botany naturals, demi-nat-
urals and demi-vicunas, Thibets, lau-
rels, azaleas and heather mixtures
command unusual attention this sea-
son.
English and Scotch novelties of posi-
tive inclination will occupy prominent
position in popular Suitings during aut-
umn. Throughout the lines offered by
the best houses extravaganza in color
and design is in view, but there are
also shown many quiet mixtures of
softly blended colors, modest stripes,
checks and plaids, which contrast most
strikingly when placed in comparison
with the positive styles.
Blarneys, tweeds, Scotch woods, home
spuns and serges are the predominant
fabrics used for suitings.
In trouserings stripes, checks. plaids
and fancy designs will share about
equal popularity. The range is from
the neat to the broad and decided in
pattern, and their color tones, which
are chiefly shades Of blue and brown,
artistic contrast of bright colors. Broad,
subdued stripes and checks, with over
plaids, also made unobtrusive by the
coloring, are the vogue.
Although the swell tailors adhere al
most exclusively to foreign manufac-
tured fabrics, there is a growing re-
quest for domestic woolens. The best
grade are made from imported wool
(on which raw material there is now no
tariff duty, are soft, mellow, elastic,
fine and fast Of color, and of almost
similar designs to the foreign made
FABRICS, than which, at relative prices,
they are considered of superior value
American manufacturers particularly
excel in lambs wool and cheviots, spe-
clally adapted for overcoats. Domestic
beavers, kerseys and meltons, of all
grades, whether Of native or foreign
raw material, are steadily gaining in
popular favor among the better classes
OF society. The finish is what gives
them headway
There is really no end to the assort-
ment of trimmings offered to-day in
the metropolitan market. The covered
buttons are rich and dressy. Popular
hard buttons this season are perfectly
finished ivories, buckhorns, in notified
ana other effects; buffalo horns, in
marble and agate, suitable for corduroy
and leather vests: conch shells and
white pearls for driving coats. Silver
buttons are used for dress, white and
fancy vests.
"A synopsis Of the seasons leading
features shows: In coats, moderately
broad and square shoulders, rolls of
liberal width and medium length; in
vests, moderately wide collars; in trou-
sers, narrow legs, with no perceptible