The San Francisco call., 1896-03-08

I readings, etc., which are consid-
II II cred proper relaxations at this
season, have all been so excellent
that we have not willingly missed one OF
them, and they have taken up every spare
moment during the daytime. This week
l have heard of a highly enjoyable euchre
party which was given i'll the Western
Addition on Thursday evening; numerous
have been the informal little teas and
musicales, at all of which one hears pretty
complimentary remarks concerning the
charming debutante whose engagement
has just been announced. How seldom
does an engagement cause such general
satisfaction and felicitation, for never has
belle had more lovely manners. And
all girls should remember that any one can
be rude and brusque, but that more OF
them would be bellies were they to cultl-
vate unselishness. low, gentle voice-'a
most excellent thing in woman"-and
sweet manners. 1t is delightful to be
beautiful, but in the end other qualifica-
tlons are more necessary.
We all sincerely regretted the cause
which necessitated the postponement of
the reception which was to have been
given on the 29th at the big house quite on
the top Of Pacific avenue.
Not few of US are thinking about Santa
Barbara ana Los Angeles and are planning
to enjoy the fete and festival, and most of
US will soon be flying around attending
openings. l received one milliner's card
announcing her spring exhibition of hats
the day of the snowstorm land if this
weather continues l shall return to a dis
cussion of velvets, furs and perhaps skat
ing costumes, as now the contemplation
of mulls and muslins is not IN the least
to my taste), and here about two weeks
ago we were looking up last years shirt
waists and consuming icecream and sodas
and slerbets, but then | have always said
we have marvellous climate, and / like it
no matter what tricks the elements play US.
As usual / have a few illustrations TO
discuss: The mourning gown has new
make of bodice and sleeves, with a full
skirt admirably adapted to any black ma
terial. Observe the way in which the
folds in the front of the bodice fall; the
graceful bows and buttons at the waist.
The collar cape is formed of ribbons with
Jet buttons, the fronts gracefully falling
over the sleeves and back and front. 1t is
not only distinctive, but original as well.
The dinner dress for matron is, as you
see simple and effective. The skirt is of
the best duchess satin and the bodice of
the same, the blouse effect being produced
with black chiffon, on which are seven fine
ruffies and insertions of rare lace. Any
dark rich satin is effective, but black is by
far the most useful, as the skirt can be
utilized with so many waists.
The last model is from Paris direct, and
is very exquisite, being of plain pink
miroir velvet. The deep lace adorning
the low-cut neck is, in the original, almost
priceless, and the buttons are fit for a
princess, as they are Of picked pearls, one
large pink one being in the center of each.
Pearl-colored glace taffeta lines it through
out, ruches of pearl and pink completing
it around the bottom. Few OF Us can have
such a creation reproduced, but the ex-
duisitely graceful cut and simple arrange
ment OF lace may be profitably carried out
by an expert dressmaker with surprising
ly good results for customer with well
proportioned figure.
AT this season novelties are hard to find,
and what will be accepted styles for the
spring and summer of SO can only be
guessed at. The new designs and confec-
tons now flooding the country will be
carefully scrutinized by fashionable wo-
men, and all good points com bined and
toned down to suit their peculiar styles of
feminine loveliness. The latest budget
from Paris informs US that light suede
gloves are to take the place of white kid
this spring, and l am sincerely thankful
for this expected change, expected firstly
because the white kid has become too
common for the smart woman any longer
to tolerate, and secondly because it looks
soiled after two hours wear. However
this has not prevented some women from
apparently wearing the same pair day in
and day out for two weeks, regardless OF
appearance, but am not again going to
indulge in remarks about soiied gloves, as
YOU may remem Der / said good deal on
the subject not long ago. and two days
after my appeal for clean gloves a woman
sat in front of me with the very worst
gloves have ever gaZed upon. l was SIM
Div fascinated by her hands, which seemed
TO afford her strange satisfaction to con-
template, otherwise she was well turned
ont. That person should be induced TO
always wear black gloves in future.
| RENE m Der a dear old Southern gentle
woman saving to her granddaughter, MY
child, a lady may have to wear shabby
gown. but she always will strive to have
her gloves and shoes of the best quality,
and even if they are old at least they can
he kept in perfect order" There is a little
typewriter in this City who supports her
self and mother entirely by her exertlons.
OF course there may be many such. but
THIS one lDJeTeSlS lOi OhiN - S-'N.
NEST bit OF a woman possible. Her dark
blue serge dress is always well brushed,
the binding around the bottom is invaria-
bly, fresh and clean, and she wears the
neatest collars and cuffs, which are fresh
every morning, and her gloves and shoes
are never minus button, but must not
describe her anv further, because you might
know her if did. However, am certain
if she ever marrles she will marry well, as
men are not slow to appreciate such at
tractive points in woman.
Among the girls who are to be pitied are
those who have to keep up appearances
on little or nothing because they or their
parents onsider it beneath their dignity
10 do anything but try and secure ricn
husbands. They wonder they do not sue
ceed, and fairly shudder when they near
that Jack, on whom they bad all beamed,
had actually married a schoolteacher or a
typewriter, forgetting that the bright lace
and. trim, well-groomed appearance was
far more attractive than their blase beauty,
r. Il. N