Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1896-02-06
EUROPEAN LETTER.


We went to the crater in a rain that was
sufficient to have put out the Volcano We
have jOlted miles in a springlsss wagon. We
have ridden springless donkeys. we have
waded in ashes to our ankels. and all this in
the interest Of pleasure.
We left Naples about nine O'Clock in the
morning under the supervision OF Cook and
in one Of Cooks wagons The morning was
not altogether promising but hope springs
eternal and we thought the day would pro-
badly be clear-Naples was Just beginning
to really wake up for the day, for the dolce
far niente of the people begins by lying in
bed in the morning At last we reached the
open country and while the clouds gathered
overhead our spirits were kept up by a
band of stroIing musicians who walked
along by the carriage and sang santa
Lucia and other delightful songs varying
them occasionally with Palsy Eell in hon
or OF oGr nationality and seeming disau-
pointed when we failed to look appreciative
we stopped at little mountain inn where
our honest driver who probably shared pre-
hts with the proprietor told US we could get
the best wine in all Italy. AT the next stop
we left the carriage and mounted donkevs
to cross the lava fields At this moment
Natures feelings overcamc her and as if in
anticipation of the fate that awaited ue be-
gan TO weep. Everyone commented giee-
fully on the fact and we mounted the dia-
bolical beasts, as Premier oliver said when
the French started to Berlin with light
hearts" When we reached that spot on our
return we had seen Vesuvius but a strange
silence had fallen on all the party. and those
who found voice at all lifted it in declaring
that henceforth their mission would he Ia
dissuade others from the ascent of the vol
cano. An incompatibility had sprung up
between all the members OF the company
and eyes that looked love at the beginning
OF the trip were now singular inexpensive
behind Strengthened bangs. and under drip
| ping hats.
/ Probably the donkeys were no worse than
other donkeys, but the road they had to
travel was but rough path and it seemed
to me that and self-respecting donkey would |
not have taken advantage of so many rocks |
in the road for the purpose of stumbling as |
these innocent-looking animals did The I
saddles were not fastened securely and the |
guides, one of whom accompanied each rid
er and shouted dreadful threats to the don
keys were expected to hold the saddles on.
When the donkey fell down the saddle slip
ped forward and cuffed the animal on the
head. When he went up a hill it settled in
securely on his tail and finally when the
outtiS hdO SLONH llIcU Ot H0lulnR II on Il
tumbled off altogether.
The rain at last began to pour and the
wind rushed violently down the mountain
1t was impossible to hold umbrellas. aud
cold. wet and disheartened the party reach
ed the station of the fnniculaire road that
leads up to the steep, yielding, ashy cone to
within few hundred yards of the crater of
the volcano
IT, only fire in the restaurant was in the
kitchen and the head-waiter who speaks
five languages and probably gets about $40 a
month. invited us to warm ourselves. an in
vitation gladly accepted. When the
world had assumed brighter hue through
the medium of an omelette and steak we
started up the mountain again The road is
almost perpendicular and one feels much |
more as if the ascent was being made in an
elevator than on rail track. 1t is called a
funiulaire, but is really cable with double
tracks and the cars are balanced so they
pass each other midway OF the distance. on
either side are the great fields of lava and
ashes, the former. of course. now cooled and
in the most fantastic shapes in which as in
clouds. one sees most clearly what his fancy
suggests. Perh. IS ii was the influence of
the donkey ride and the weather. but ii
seemed to me Dore's illustrations Of Dante's
Inferno" might have been photographs Of
these formations.
At the top of the funic1aire we were met
by new relay of guides who took off their
big coats and wrapped them about the
drenched women of the party Chairs car
ried by four men were to be had for those
unable to walk to the crater. A guide went
ahead of each OF us and throwing a strap
over his shoulder told US to hold on tight
and lean back. Ones sympathy for the
guide prevents his leaning back very far at
first but latter sympathy is lost in fatigue
and one resigns himself to being pulled bod
lily up the hill through the deep ashes The
crater was pointed out to us and we were
warned not to go too close but we saw moth
ing but place a little more foggy than the
dense mist covering the mountain: we saw
the running lava which looked temptingly
warm. and the sulphur which wasa bright
yellow and smelled like match factory.
Descending the hill again to the funiculaire
the ladies hung Imply on the arms OF the
guides and regardless OF best shoes and silk
underskirts suffered themselves to be
dragged through the fine, grey ashes too
weary and wet to protest.
At the lower station a stop of several
hours was made in anticipation OF clear
ing up of the weather. hope that proved
70 be vain. however. During this time the
registry album large blank book in which
tourists may ind place to relieve their
feelings, furnished US diversion We were
called upon to be proud Of our erudite
countrymen and women when we found
these inscriptions after the big black L
) At must be seen to be appreciated
Grand beyond all Description 4 mag
!ned il furnace famed by hot and raging /
goddess to avenge her wrath. Another
I haf Oh
| Chicago; and still another of less prac- |
teal nature. summed up the description OF |
II IN three words. Grand gloomy and pee
uliar," man who had day like ours for
the ascent had written:
The day is dark. and cold and dreary
/ The rain and mists are never weary.
! tits to windy. chill and damp
For ought but TO Snufie. cuSS and stamp.