davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

ture and simulated petticoat gave the appearance of an under robe complete of white moire, very rich and glistening. The draped skirt, the elbow sleeves, cape epaulette and upper part of the bodice were of white velvet printed all over with a lace design in new gold and royal blue, bands of blue velvet being used for borders, and the flare collar above the close band. The hat was Of white velvet, with white feathers, white satin ribbons and diamond buckle.
 The cape in which the duchess drove to the precious infants naming party was of sable for the lower third of its depth, with tails pendant at intervals all around. The upper two-thirds were of velvet, brocaded upon a satin ground white upon blue, with great clasps across the front, two sets of them, rhine stones and sapphires. The cape had no fullness about the shoulders, but set out like half moon in every direction at the bottom. The flare collar was of the fur.
 Speaking of little people, their clothes are perfecting bewitching. Such a de- licious little frock for a 5 or year old as I saw today, made of delicate gold colored stuff. one of the accordion plis- ses' from Parize's rue de la Chausse d'Antin, for guess. for they have there the most wonderfully pretty fabrics. The frock had a little full waist and full skirt, and over the waist a harness made of rich golden brown velvet in bands, piped with the light gold. The straps went across the waist and around the sleeves, and the effect was that of a vel vet bodice cut away to mere skeleton of one with the soft poufs of the feath- cry yellow stuff coming through every where. The neck was tiny double puff. sleeves ditto. For child's party what could be prettier than one of the dainty, delicate Dresden silks, with minute rose buds on an ivory ground, made up-in the same fashion, with straps of pale blue cashmere, piped with ivory silk? I'll answer my own uuestion-nothing, for saw one such, and it was charming.
 Fichus on everything The beautiful velvet cloaks of the children are protect ed for the very young youngsters with fichus of fine muslin lace trimmed, which can be laundered and kept fresh or re- p1aced Inv paw opoe
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

was the American method agaln. Just Imagine Parisian designers a few years ago giving as much time and thought to getting up adorable toilets for mammas to be as ever did an apostle of reformed dress. but they are doing it today.
 A Charming Calling Gown.
 "Toilettes de vile, de soiree ct d'inte- rieur," said madame, and when she said. t'Charming, is it not so?" said Yes" very emphatically. The calling toilet was of putty-colored cloth in princess shape, close fitting at the back and under the arms, with, of course, fluted skirt. The front was wide box plait from neck to hem, growing wider, toward the bottom with narrow box plaits, one on each side which ended at the knees. Between these and the center wide plait were fans of plaited black silk muslin,g which began on the bust and ended a little way above the bottom of the side plaits.s The latter are apparently buttoned upon the foun- dation with five buttons from the shoul- der to belowsthe bust and onsthe lower end to the skirt. The sleeves are covered with self-colored embroidery. There is collar of blue fox, a large huff to match, and a black velvet toque ornamented with quills and red roses. Simply an ideally becoming and chic toilet for pay ing visits. There is another street dress of beige cloth with flare skirt and soft blouse waist of some sort, over which is to be worn a huted cape of the cloth like the skirt. The cape IS en- broidered round the bottom. Over this is a shoulder cape collar of fox, which in front falls in long, stole ends to the knees, ending in four tails on each side. The stole ends are separated hands breadth or more in front, displaying a Louis XIV front of white lace. This is tied in a bow knot under the chin and falls longer than the cape, but shorter than the fur, in straight waistcoat ef- feet. Large picture hat of aubergine vel vet, with black feathers and red roses.
 The sleeves of the bodice, I should add, are also of aubergne velvet.
 For Evening Wear.
 An evening gown that is very lovely for this young matron has been evolved from her wedding gown of white satin duch- esse. Down the front from the low round
 neck fall three plaits of brocaded satin,
 with two slender panels of accordion plaited chiffon between them. The neck of the decollette bodice is slightly pointed yoke of pearl embroidery, and on each side falls a jabot of lace continued to the foot. On the outside of the elbow sleeves, which grow wider toward the elbow, are wide plaits of the brocade. A necklace of pearls is the sole vestige of jewelry needed to complete the charm of this gown. There was nothing espe- cially striking about an informal dinner bodice of white satin brocade with a rip pie back, loose straight front of plaited mousseline with ribbons across the bot tom plaited in and straps across the bust of velvet ribbon, lace falling from under the ripple sides and back. But there
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
@fesxs..ss'ss NY <. v PARIS. y

Along with your New Year resolutions I hope you registered disposition to "stick up for America and everything in it worth letting the flag float over it' And how many things there are! Amer ica for Americans" said a Frenchmap to me at breakfast this morning; huh, 1t. ees all ze world for Amee-ree-kans," and
 he seems to have gotten at the facts in the case. I positively giggled yesterday going through Rue du Bac at the thought of the avidity with which American wo- men at home have always striven to get hold of anything, everything of any femi- nine import whatever, so long as 1t had a vestige of Parisian stamp upon it. But do you know that Mime. Male, in Rue du Bac. is making a fortune teaching and practicing "L'Art dEtre Beile;" by what method do you suppose? Par la meth ods Americaine," if you please; and she has a lot of followers, both among her professional rivals and among her pat rons. The "Americaine method" crops out here in lots of ways. I was allowed yesterday as a great favor to peep at some of the toilets just designed and in process of development at perhaps the most exclusive establishment in all Paris for future woman," whose name am net permitted even to whisper to you, hut which you would know very well if I had not sworn to secrecy before l was allowed to gaze upon the creations. Here
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
DOCTOR|NC THE HAHD Different Types Require Many
 Kinds of Treatment. SOME VALUABLE RECIPES Many Women Fail in Their Efforts to Secure Beautiful Hand by Applying the
 Wrong Lotion

One great secret of having a soft kiss able hand is to find out what kind of pomade or cream is suitable to 1t, and to make a point of using that and that only for the future. It may take a weary experimentalizing to find out what is just suitable, but I assure you time and thought are very well spent on 1t.
 Some women are entirely too apt to try a thing just because their dearest friend advises it, or because they hear that a woman they cordially dislike but secretly envy uses it in the mysteries of her toilet. Now, this is just about as foolish thing as they can do, and often an otherwise passable hand Is ruined by the ill-advised use of the worst possible pomade for that particular kind of skin.
 No two skins are just alike. One is fine; the other is course; while a third is mottled and quaint looking. And every kind of skin, be it commonplace or rather eccentric, requires different treat ment Would that people would awaken to this fact and not ruin an otherwise pleasant looking skin by the variety of harmful things they see fit to rub upon it.
 hand is not like kitchen cooking range, that becomes more lovely to be- hold the more it is polished but requires dS uellCdte ndHullIlB as d pllCeleSS SHllld cup, and should have quite as much care bestowed upon it.
 The chief thing to strive after when you want soft, white hands is that you should eat plenty of nourishlng food and drink plenty of liquid, only not with your meals, but between them. Lack of nourishment produces that flabby. wrin- kled kind of hand which you have often to so reluctantly shake. Now, a few words as to the kind of ointments to use. For a smooth. close grained skin, that looks much the same in summer heats, or winter snows, charming pomade may be made as follows: Bitter almond, four ounces honey and glyce- rine four teaspoonfuls; yolks of four eggs; almond oil, one-half pint; eau de cologne and lemon juice, two ounces.
 An easier pomade and obtainable any where can be made of the yolks of two eggs; a tablespoonful of olive oil; glyce- rine one ounce, and oil of almonds, one half ounce. This must be well beaten together and shaken before using.
 For red, rough hands, on the contrary, glycerine should never be used at all. It increases the redness and clogs the pores of the skin up very much. For a hand of this description, which is never @ deslra- ble possession, a pomade can be used which Is made of cucumbers. Cut into
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

tiny pieces pound and half of peeled cucumber, add a pound of highly clarified lard, some new milk and four teaspoon fuls of white honey. Let this gently sim mer over slow fire for twelve hours then squeeze through a muslin bag or fine sieve, then mix well together and press into pot.
 Another very successful pomade is made of lanoline, one ounce; essence of bitter almonds, fifteen minims; dry chlo- ride of lime, one-half ounce; rectified spirit, one ounce, and little honey and lemon juice.
 Lemon juice, honey and eau de cologne in equal parts and the yolk of one egg, beaten together, make capital toilet aid, and should be rubbed on several times a day when the hands are still damp from washing. Plain slices of lemon rubbed on the hands under the same circum- stances help to whiten and soften the skin in a delightful manner. Oat meal made into a paste with almond oil, oil of bergamot and honey is also very good for the hands. White of an egg and alum, beaten to thin paste, is also good in some cases.
 When the pomade is applied care should be taken to see that the hands are perfectly clean or the application will not be of very much use, and I must in- sist again on point upon which too much stress cannot be laid, viZ that the 
 they are washed.
 Cacao butter is also a very good foun- dation to use for one of these pomades. Take equal parts of this with almond oil deer Suet and eau de cologne and mix well. All these pomades require well beating together till they are smooth and even looking.
 Sleeping gloves must be worn at night if there is any redness or roughness seen, as prevention is always much more sat isfactory than cure in these cases.
 These sleeping gloves can be bought at a very trifling outlay and should not only be well ventilated, but should be several times too large, so that there is no nres- sure The pomade should be well rubbed into the hands before the gloves are put on.
 A better plan however, and one adopt ed by many fashionable women, is to turn the gloves inside out and well rub them with cold cream or pomade, and then put the hands into the coverings thus prepared for them.
 A hand soft and white is what every one, especially the members of the softer sex desire to possess; but it is frequently, owing perhaps to constitutional defect or unavoidable use, difficult matter to obtain. In the winter months, too, ones hands, despite every care, are apt to be- come red and unsightly looking. The ladies of ancient days kept their skins dazzling fair by constant applications of milk washes and wonderful cosmetics, in which many curious items were blended one of the most valuable being almond paste marvellous specific for whitening the skin,
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

tionable figure, neither tall nor short, but making up in carriage for any want of length of line which carping criticism might suggest. The cloth of her dress was bluish gray with diagonal lines in black coming to the surface all over it. The skirt had not bit of fullness about the hips. but fell in ripples at the back and sides. What the under bodice may have been don't know; all saw, as you will see in the sketch was tight sleeves above the elbow and a flare cape, with an overlying cape of black lynx; this tapered to a point at the waist line and ended in two long boa-like ends, which were tied carelessly and fell whither they would. There was neck band of the same fur, and the foot and wrist bands matched. The fur on the front of the cape left a narrow wedge-shaped plas- tron visible, which in place of the almost inevitable white lace over satin was, for wonder and prettily so, made of rather pale blue velvet. The hat was a curious Napoleonic model shaped to make 1t very becoming, covered with black vel vet, and having some blued jet tautly drawn under the full crown.
 Another smartly gotten up shopper who dropped into the English pastry
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
Bernhardt at the Seaside,

Mme Bernhardt spent her last holiday in Brittany in quaint little fortress which she had purchased. It stands alone on the top of a rock, surrounded by cliffs and the sea. The walls are hung with mats; the loopholes are enlarged and serve as windows. Bamboo furniture is everywhere and it Is entirely furnished as a summer residence Mime. Bernhardt wore a fisher costume and made the ac- quaintance of the Breton fisherfolk with her usual readiness. The guests of the great actress took their bicycles with
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
THE NEWEST BOWS.
The Marlborough Has Many Loops of Crisp
 Ribbon.


 Bows are blossoming vigorously this season over gowns, hats, wraps, in fact every article pertaining to feminine wear and use.
 The novelty of the present winter is called the Marlborough, named, of course, after the English duke who cap tured one of our American beauties. This charming scheme is simply a revival of the old fashioned bow-favored by our grandmothers long years ago. It has numerous and ample loops; the ribbon, of superfine quality, Is crisply tied with several short straight ends.
 There is another choice now generously used in trimming frocks. It consists of five loops-all crushed together and turn ed the same way. The original departure peeps out from the inside of the sleeve and rests on the bosom, and to make il more of a coquettish novelty it only ap, pears on one side of the body, and that Is the left. Merely a smart bit of dress furnishing, but yet an exceedingly pretty idea.
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
Folly in Hats.

It has been considered for at least two seasons past that in connection with mill linery "the force of folly could no further go," but this is apparently an error. The way in which many long ostrich feathers are now set on hats and some of the ultra bonnets reminds one of the batter ed looking plumes which adorned the headgear of the half-witted Barnaby Rudge, as seen in the illustrated editions of Dickens novel. It Is quite impossible to do justice to some of the models that are put forth by even the most noted milliners and called stylish
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

was a house gown in the collection of snew gowns for this fortunate young gfande dame that is idyllic. It is of rose | silk accordion, plaited throughout, with a a-inch smooth plait down the front. set s o9 with fhinestone buttons The sleeves ar4 gathered where the arms eye seam would naturally come under q harrow band of Jet and then the velvet IS c9ntin- . a Medici collar, and curves on the bust like jacket front on each side. There is a standing collar of crumpled lace in- eide the velvet, and a fall 6{ ffeam lace eehows below the velvet fri1led Zouave drops to the waist line. Without any ex- ception. this is the jauntiest. most novel house gown I have seen anywhere this season.
 A Brides Jaunty Toilet.
 Apropos of jaunty effects I saw one at Columbin's today in a toilet worn by Mrs. Rollason, a bride of few months. daughter of Sir Frederick, Howard. She is a medium blonde. with an upexeep-
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
RANCHES AND FRILLs.
New Trimmings of Fur-Buttons From Ger
 many-Frenoh Jackets.

White fur is used on some of the new evening gowns with charming effect.
 A very effective border for a shell pin is filagree silver set with a row of dia- monds.
 The most popular ring at the moment is doubtless the hoop, with from three to seven stones.
 A white ermine fur collarette is cut like a deep yoke with points on the shoulder and slightly pointed front and back, a small ermine's head and two little tails finishing each point.
 Some of the new Parisian jackets are very fetching Those who are slender are sure to like the short, full blouse jackets of velvet, satin or of the dress material These are belted into the waist like Russian blouse. 's
 People who have been in southern Ger many or Italy this autumn bring back
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
All ofSnnar

ths of a nnH fish exhibition they had made of ooitred sugars picture of ship on the water, with a man fishing on the coast, the clouds in the sky, and flowers growing on the shores. The wide frame was made of chocolate.
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
Airy Fittings.
,lyt dainty

Dimities look shivery but dainty.
 Frozen mustaches are not objects of beauty.
 Delft embroidery is the most popular fancy work.
 Russian samovars are seen on after noon tea tables
 Orange shortcake is almost as good as strawberry.
 Why is it water tastes so much better out of thin glass?
 Fish net draperies are much in vogue for dens and libraries.
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
Smart Cloth Costume.

Cloth skating costumes, braided hus- sar fashion, are not new, but are highly fashionable. The combinations of fawn- colored cloth, pink silk, and lines of mar row brown fur, forms very chic CO.'S tune just completed. The skirt, bor- dered with fur, opens up either side of the front, showing the pink silk facing. This opening is braided beyond the fur in brown and gold. The revers and cape collar of the jacket are braided and fur edged to match, and a sable boa and bunch of violets complete the costume.
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26
nefused the Kine.

Henry VIII he'd six wives; the most the fair sex in general to obtain the dam
 eerope dietinotfon of being his queen. One instance alone Is quoted of bis ueef- tug with a refusal, apd that was oh the part of witty duchess of Milan. who re- plt9d to hts offer .'that she, unfortunate- ", had but one head, and could not at-
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

cooks place on Rue Cambon had her frock quite enveloped in a long, double breasted cloak with cape, which sug- gested great warmth. It was a rather heavily twlled blue cloth, with @ light "coachman's" shade in the background. The coat and cape were both finished, as you will see, to give the effect of there being three eloaks and three capes, by the introduction of layer of light cloth the tint of that in the background of the blue. Stitching finished the edges and huge buttons of pierced pearl. The chapeau was youthful compilation of feathers and velvet, upon furry beaver of the coachmans drab shade, the feath- CTS being black.
 The Duchess de Luynes was the pret- tiest woman of the younger mondaines whom saw at christening party last week. The sketch gives a good idea of the lines, but nothing at all of the recher- che effect of the gown. The yoke. cein-
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

Silver pen extractors are a new acces- sorry for the writing desk this season, and, although small, are strong enough to extract the most stubborn pen from its holder and fill long felt want. ss
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

sets of the lovely silver filagree buttons that play such an important part in the national costumes and which are handed down by the peasants as are family jew els by their masters
Birmingham state herald., 1896-01-26

them, and once a week all the party went to Palais to buy their provisions, which they carried back with them.
The Portland daily press., 1896-11-12
Union Vet Gran Legion.

Portland Encampment, No. III OF the
Union Veteran Legion. held It's regular
meeting last evening ut the hali, ana
after the transaction of some routine
business, the mem bsrs and their lnvltea
guests adjourned to Ruby's Gaze Wnere
supper was enjoyed. After tine supper
the company returned to their naii' ana
after the comrades had lighted oisafs'
Fast Colonel Niokerson calico 'ho as
sembly to order. Col. @. +. Mae'aooAs
was introduced as the first speaker anu
after few complimentary woros ~ INC
members upon their successful ofea'iiAN-
ton, he went on to speak OF the saiue III
the organizations that unite tne com
rades of the Civil war Col. Mauoooks
was followed by Senior Vice Oomin"nuel
F. D. Winslow of Bosworth fos'' ras'
Department Commander ". q. useel'
h. R. Sargent and M. A. Hanna u ene
The Portland daily press., 1896-11-12

allowed any man to labor without some
success, and though the pathway OF these
IN issionaries to the good they wish to
reach has been beset with obstacles and
dangers on every hand, they have &C.
oumplished great amount of good. We
hear people says What business 10 1t
of ours whether the Indian is lifted up
or not" 1t is the business Of every true
man as long as the Indians are in need
of any help. The more these Indians
take human life, the more degraded they
are, the more we should labor among
them to lift them up and to better their
condition. There are those who say the
Indian is not capable of being lifted up,
and is not improving in civilization and
morals. No man can be discouraged who
knows anything about the number of
years and centuries 1t took to make the
American people a civilized race OF be-
ings. Seventeen centuries after the
death OF Christ the American people
were selling human beings and bathing
their hands In the blood of slavery.
don't believe it will take half as many
centuries to lift the Indian up and
civilize them. There are whole tribes
of Indians who never have heard of
Christ and 1t should shame the American
PEOPLE, to know that living within the
borders of their own country are pagans
and heathens who might be taught the
true religion and lifted on to the plane
of civilization with little effort. / be-
lisve the American conscience will be
aroused in this matter some day and will
respond nobly to this great work.
Miss Kitto, the Indian girl, then de-
livered brief address telling in simple
language about her people, their life and
customs. She told about her childhood
which was passed in her fathers teepee
in Nebraska. Her father had farm
which he cultivated by the aid of her
mother, and Miss Kitto spoke in an affec-
tionate manner of her home and her par
ents. When five years old she had been
attracted to the Indian mission school
at 6ante, near her home, by the sight OF
other Indian girls whose dresses with
ruffles and whose show hats and shoes
duu 6uUCklukb bo5u0u bNO ulOSu SioA1Ouc
raiment in the world to her childish
mind. She told how hard she worked to
learn English language and afterwards
of nsr being sent to Rockford college
where she passed several years. She is
now an Indian teacher in the reserva-
tion near her home and has charge of the
primary department. OF the school.
Mrs. Woodbury., the field secretary Of
the national association also delivered
an address and told what has been done
and what remains to be accomplished
among the Indians. Her talk was very
instructive and interesting.
| The following resolutions we're then
adopted by the meeting:
| Resolved, That the thanks of the Wom-
| EMS Maine Indian Association be tend
cred Miss Kitto for the special effort she
| has made to ne with us today.
| Resolved, That this association CRATE
| fully appreciate the privilege of listening
| to the speakers who have addressed them
and express their thanks for the cordial
hospitality of the members of the First
Free Baptist church.