The herald., 1896-09-13
IN1IlNf slE BUVS|

With the waning Of the summer we md
our affection for big sleeves and overabund-
ant skirts taking wing, and turn with zcst
to the new modes already shown us BY en-
terprising couturieres. Certainly sleeves
are smaller and, oh, very much smarter than
were the balloons we were oil so fond Of
The compression Of the sleeve to tho
shoulder with often big pun to set il of.
ora bit Of fullness there to relieve the plain
ness. 10 vastly becoming to most figures,
and gives an air of lightness and grace
wholly lost by the overgrown big sleeve
A complete study Of sleeves would fll a
good-sfzed volume. and be intensely inter.
esting. Everything that is novel is intro
duced. and many Of the arrangements arc
decidedly novel.
A dainty bodice Of mauve silk covered
with laco OF q yellow tint has a strik-
ing arrangement OF sleeve; tho big, full
pun at the shoulder is made of a gorgeous
brocade. showing white ground with big
splashes OF rich purple fading into dull pink.
This pun = 90 etiffened and stuffed into
shape that there is no possibility Of its
becoming crushed or fiattened.
From the shoulder down the sleeve flts
the arm tightly. and is made Of, the silk
covered with white tulle. shirred in the
smallest OF rows across the arm and
drawn snugly together so as to form a
raised surface all over the arm; the effect
is decidedly rich. At the wrist tho tulle
forms triple ruching extending low over
tho hand.
a great many Of the sleeves in new
cloth gowns are made up in much the
same manner. with soft pufings of the
cloth arranged in irregular fashion. and
interlined with cotton to keep the puffs
in place. A sleeve Of this sort is shown
on gown of hunters green broad
! cloth. with huge butterfly knot of hunt
er's green silk at the top edged with sable
fur. and fastened in the center with big
rhinestone clasps.
All correct sleeves droop we'll over tho
hand, either In curved or pointed effect.
while the under part Is cut out to ft the
palm. Often an artistic knotting of ribbon
is run all along the outer side Of the sleeve,
SO That. after all. though the size is dimin-
fshed. the new sleeve is much more elab-
crate than the old.
So many Of the pretty silk bodices have
the tight part Of the sleeve covered with
wrinkled crepe or chiffon, either in black
or white. even though the material is
used no other place upon the bodice.
Speaking of bodices reminds me o, two
exquisite models saw last week, both Of
which were lovely as dreams and fright
fully expensive: but then, they each bore
the genuine French hallmark. One was in
black and white. heavy black net made in
blouse fashion over foundation of black
tafieta. beautiful patterned black lace.
with the design brought out in white in
bold effect, is artistically draped across the
front to simulate a bolero jacket: this falls
softly and perfectly loose. wide scarf
Of the black and white lace forms broad
girdle at the front, and ties In a full bow
at the back, to hang over the skirt which
In this instance is Of rich white and black
striped silk.
Another charming model for bodice is
made up Of chameleon taffeta in shades Of
silver and dull green; the entire upper
part OF the body and the puff Of tho
sleeves are covered with appliques Of
Honiton lace. set together with tiny jew
els Honitcn lace covers the tight lower
arm to the waist, where big butterfly
knots are set as a finish.
Fur is already seen on many OF the
smart new bodices, and surely there Is no
more effective a trimming. especially on
pale tinted silk, than the dark, rich furs.
Tiny edgings Of chinchilla are given the
preference, while pipings of ermine are as
chic as possible on bodices of dark tint.
q x *
i The woman who Is excessively dainty
can revel to her hearts content in fascin-
ating lingerie for the neck and shoulders
great deal Of batiste embroidery is used
| with good effect upon most gowns. A
sole. pelissed finely. has bands of batiste
embroidery set In as a finish. Tiny frills
Of butter tinted lace hide all the seams.
Buttons are being given a decided rest,
and it's good thing. for every one is sur
feited with them. The only buttons used
are upon tailor made gowns, and then
they are exceedingly large and handsome
ly carved.
Every one is wearing white chiffon wells.
with tiny bordering of some sort: they
are genuine beautifiers Of the complexion,
and are effectively worn over a dark or
light hat.
Black wells are used but little. but when
they are they show enormous spots Of
black chenille quite a distance apart
The latest addition to the silk shirt waist
Is the strap of linen worn down the front
from collar to belt, holding set OF three
small. pearl set studs.
Belts grow in width. and are made Of
every material under the sun from alli-
gator and snake skin to hand painted
ribbons and teweled stuffs.