Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1896-02-01
A VISIT TO vESUviUS.
DiaboIicaI Donkeys Out In the Rain
Then Sentimental.
[From our special correspondent ]


lFrom orr special correspondent
NAPLES, ITALY, jan Io.-We have
returned soaked and disappointedfrom
Vesuvius. Our clothes and our tenn
pers have been ruined; Cook the ex-
cursion fend has fallen in our esti-
nation and Vesuvius is simply be-
meath our notice. We went to the
crater in a rain that was sufficient to
have put out the volcano. We have
jolted miles in springless wagon,
we have ridden springless donkeys,
waded in ashes to our ankles, and all
this in the interest of pleasure
We left Naples about nine O'Clock
in the morning under the supervision
of Cook and in one of Cooks wagons.
The morning was not altogether
promising but hope springs eternal"
and we thought the day would prob
ably be clear. Naples was just begin
ming to really wake up for the day. for
dole far niente of abe people begins
by lying in bed in the morning. At
last we reached the open country and
while the clouds gethered overhead
our spirits were kept up by band Of
strolling musicians who walked along
by the carriage and sang Santa Lu-
cia" and other delightful Italian
songs, varying them occasionally with
Daisy Bell" in honor Of our nation
atty and seeming disappointed when
W failed to look appreciative. We
stopped at little mountain inn where
our honest driver who probably shar-
ed profits with the proprietor. told us
we could get the best wine in all Italy.
At the next stop we LETT the carriage
and mounted donkeys TO cross the
lava fields. At this moment natures
feelings overcame her and as if in an
ticipation Of the fate that awaited us,
began to weep Everyone recommended
gleefully on the fact and we mounted
the diabolical beasts, as premier oliver
said when the French started to Ber-
lin, with Light hearts" When we
reached that spot on our return we
had seen Vesuvius but strange
silence had fallen on all the party,
and those who found voice at all lifted
it in declaring that henceforth their
mission would be to dissuade others
from the ascent of the volcano. An
incompatibility had sprung up be-
tween all the members of the company
and eyes that looked love at the be-
ginning Of the trip where now singu-
larly inexpensive behind Strengthened
bangs, and under dripping hats.
Probably the donkey was no worse
than other donkeys, but the road
they had to travel was but a rough
path and it seemed to me that any
self-respecting donkey would not have
taken advantage of as many rocks in
the road for purpose of stumbling as
these innocent looking animals did.
The saddles were not fastened secure
ly and the guides, one of whom ac-
companied each rider and shouted
dreadful threats to the donkeys were
expected 10 hold the saddles on
When the donkey fell down, the sad
die slipped forward and cuffed the ami
NAL on the head When he went up
a hill it settled insecurity on his tail
and finally when the guide had grown
tired of holding it on it tumbled off al
together.
The rain at last began to pour and
the wind rushed violently down the
mountain. 1t was impossible to hold
umbrellas and cold, wet and disheart-
ened the party reached the station of
the funiculaire road that leads up the
steep, yielding ashy cone to within a
few hundred yards of the crater of the
volcano.
The only fire in the restaurant was
in the kitchen and the head-waiter,
who speaks five languages and prob
ably gets $40 month, invited us to
warm ourselves, an invitation we
gladly accepted. When the world had
assumed brighter hue through the
medium of an omelette and steak we
started up the mountain again. The
road is almost perpendicular and one
feels much more as if the ascent were
being made III an elevator than on
rail track. 1t is called funiculaire,
but it is really a cable with double
tracks and the cars are balanced so
they pass each other midway Of the
distance. On either side are the great
fields of lava and ashes, the former Of
course, now cooled and IN the most
fantastic shapes, in which, as in clouds,
one sees most clearly what his fancy
suggests. Perhaps it was the infiu-
ence Of the donkey ride and the
weather but it seemed to me Dore's
illustrations Of Dantes Inferno
might have been photographs of these
formations.
At the top OF the funiculaire we
were met by new relay of guides
who took off their big coats and wrap
ped them about the drenched women
in the party. Chairs carried by four
men were to be had for those unable
to walk to the crater. A guide went
ahead of each of us and throwing a
strap over his shoulder told us to hold
it tight and lean back. Ones sympa-
thy for the guide prevents him lean
ing back very far at first. but later
sympathy is lost in fatigue and one
resigns himself to being pulled bodily