The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-12-23
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IDEAS for d5Mnrnen.

.svive the styles Of 1S45 in the tight
Sleeves and straight lines from bust to
waist that characterized her models.
They scarcely met with any favor at
the time; the comfort of The big sleeve
and loose blouse had too tight a hold
over even women who closely study the
fashions TO be ~relinquished lightly, says
the New York Herald But the house
of Paquin is persistent, and what it
cannot accomplish in one way it Will
in another.
When Mime. Bernhard decided to re-
vive Camille and went to Paquin for
her gowns that astute person said
w win give you the straight. stiff
bodices. the small sleeves and full skirts
of 1916; only the bodices shall be s%tiffen-
ed as they never were before. Theismall
sleeves shall be wrinkled and tucked, and
the fullnesss of the skirts h be ar
ranged to be becoming.
Bernhard lent herself to the idea, and
now small sleeves, tight, stiff bodices
and full skirts are un fait accompli.
Indeed, the tight sleeves ARRIVED" with
the initiated in fashions mysteries some
little time ago but the straight lines
from bust to waist are yet little worn.
Nine. Paquin. when she attempted to
make this style the fashion last year,
got the straight, stiff effect by having "
shaped pads Of hair worn between ones
gown and stays, the bottom of the ty,"
OF course, pointing toward the waist line
and the top part rising to the level of
the bust. These pads are almost univer-
sally worn, or should be, in all day
-@-~~- Att -n->- Ln+ e.. - r~~x-x,&
they have developed into three slender
boards. almost to Observation-Disclosures,
Nine. Paquin calls them. They are three
to four inches wide at the top and taper
ing to a point at the waist line.
*.s
These planchettes are firmly inserted
a the middle and front sides of the cor
sage, after the fashion of whalebones, and
satin or velvet of which the corsage
formed can be drawn tightly over them
that their surface is absolutely un-
fred BY the slightest crease or wrinkle,
id the stiff, straight line from bust to
kaist is maintained In a manner that
would have moved the women of 1916 to
he deepest envy. The divisions made by
the ~planchettes are sometimes merely
dti III dHAu SOiiiEAtiltGS JO{ihGA ny AAiG
lacing, the facing being a trife smarter.
Some of the corsages built on plan
chettess nave the panels formed by them
embroidered in seed pearls and silver
thread, or fine cut Jets, when the cor
sage is black satin or velvet.
The sleeves worn with these corsages
are an elaboration of the old fashioned
baby sleeves, and the bust is outlined
with soft folds of mousseline de sole or
Z chiffon.
The newest skirts to wear with these
corsages are accordion pleated, and are
made of mousseline de sole, chiffon or
net, perfectly plain or embroidered in a
design, from the bottom to the knee, to
correspond with that on the corsage.
These skirts are cut so that there is no
bulky fulness about the hips. They are
mounted over a taffeta silk slip, COW
cred with one or two slips of chiffon the
same color as theg gown
49,.
Two very stunning gowns recently worn
built on the same model as the one de-
scribed, were totally different in coloring
and effect Ore had a. black satin cor
sage, with the planchette panels en-
- A1kC bta(h R&l4lCltC-s lie
baby sleeves were of black satin, also
embroidered in paillettes. The accordion
pleated skirt was of black chiffon, en-
tireiy covered with tiny black paillettes
Sewn closely together.
The other gown was yellow. The cor
sage was a canary satin, embroidered in
pearls. gold thread and topaz. The ac-
Gordon pleated skirt was of canary yell
low mousseline de sole, embroidered in
the same design. The accordion pleated
skirt was mounted over a canary yell
low silk taffeta skirt and a double slip
of yellow chiffon.
Apropos OF accordion pleated skirts, one
woman the other day gave another wom-
an a clever description of how the OBJ
jectionable fullness above the hips was
dispensed with in the up-to-date aecor-
dion pleated skirt.
You see, my DEAR she said to her
uninformed listener, they take a square
ef stuff and pleat it star fashion toward
Che centre. When they get enough
pleated they cut a hole in the middle and
put you in it, trim it off round and even
lat the bottom and there you are. That
is about all there is to it."
Accordion pleated skirts are very pref
~, and there is something distractingly
Tharming about the way they swish and
swirl and fall away from one, yet Gins
as one moves. Nevertheless, their reign
has always been of necessity too short
whenever they have swayed the fashions.
They are n of the things that can and
are quickly to be found among the
.ready-mades.% and that is always the
death knen to anything that aspires to
be very stylish.
If onel does not care to wear an ac-
'ordion Pleated skirt with this newest of
'odices. q very smart model from Paquin
also has a null skirt of tulle. with a sim
slated talblier formed of two or three
uffles Of tulle, edged with tiny narrow
fbbons This tabIier dips to the knees
q 'front.' and arises to within six inches
the waist line In the back.
Skirts need not of necessity be of dia-
famous material TO be good style for
II dress. Skirts of satin made full and
ounted on a cord about the hips are
~ nar They, too, swing loose from
ir underslip. which should be of
ieta. feather boned about the bottom.
nc one af niir we'll knovn xuriters hos