The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-05-24

me AhFh OF the SeHsWh Aiuc-Suh-
mcr Millinery Bctrnys Its Unquiet
in II Reckless Extravaganza Of
Color.
Copyright, 1896.
New York. May 23.-Diogcnes. II he had
looked with his feeble-rayel lanthorn from
his day even to ours. would never have
flashed light upon a fashion wholly sane.
Honesty. even. is less rare.
Not for long have the hats of the femi-
nine half of humanity been so demure
of shape and in size more modest The
br.ms are not of overweening breadth.
nor yet pinched and tortured into UNI
necessary curves and dips and pillows.
Fairly they seem to serve the purpose
of head covering and face shade which
can alone excuse a hat-untH the mill
liner gets at work with her boxes Of
rainbows and auroras. Then. farewell,
sweet simplicity.
Mainly the object seems to be TO min
gle upon a frame of modest shape the
most homogeneous and contradictory col
ors. There viii be pinks and blues and
lilacs waving upon its narrow vantage
for a mastery of loudness. In such
riot of tulip-garden colOrs 10 IS hard TO
suit taste for things transformations. And
besides all the jangle Of discordant tints
foliage and ferns, until a window show Of
hats suggests the gardens of the Hesper-
!des.
1t must have been by a supreme here
ism of Remuneration that so many co!ors
were left of a little knock about hat Of
wings and white roses on sunburn straw
which | saw yesterday. Yet even this bore
a bunch of purple viOlets In addition The
straw was very rough and heavy-the
weight if not the roughness a fault There
was one Of fine yellow straw with a Tam
o. Shanter brim, rather Wide and covered
with lace, with three ostrich feathers on
the side and a bunch Of pink roses. These
are examples of extreme simplicity,
though there are some small hats OF blue
corn flowers on yellow sunburnt straw
tina; may merit the name. The sailor hats
of the season have higher crowns than In
the past. and there are soft visions of
lace and roses which overflow in stream
ers of white lace to twist beneath the
throat and waken envy.
One whimsical shape-a ver!table grand
fathers hat with curling brim of straw,
a bulging crown of lace and bedeckmcnt
of band and buckle, plume and rose.
each ear a bridge Of 5eweied purple vel
vet between and white dove midway,
its wings upstretched as if for flight.
| There are toques, too, Of close clinglng
sheil-shaped chous of red and black,
surmOunted with black wings. There
are those fashioned of two roses spring
punches Of violets at the Side. one
variant of the fan toque has the two fans
at either side huted from close black
net edged with white point lace;
and with high bows in the middle. And
there are the picture hats of plumes and
the perky little hats whose straight brims
are picketed with sentinel quilts in gay
colors and whose hard crowns are smoth-
cred in masses Of white tulle.
In the riot of cOlOrs upon hats there is
no such coyness as makes grass linen
| Of The sheerest, thinnest sort the medium
of a coquettish display For beneath such
| linen exterior, of imperfect power TO mask
| the glow, CLEANS the warmth of red SILK
! or the fire of yellow; or there are hints
! of pale green or blue, cool as the sea
| depths. This s.l-lined grass linen IS doubt
I less the seasons dearest and best be-
! loved mode. There are wonderful things.
/ though in white and light muslins that
/ NAV well divide allegiance.
! To some extent the harlequin effect Of
the many-colored hats is carried out by
gowns of Joseph's coat magnihcence. Bo-
/ dices differ wholly from the skirts, not
| only in color but in texture, and even in
| the bodice itself two or three different
/ materials may be used. SO that, given a
/ plain skirt, a woman may literally with
shreds and patches complete serviceable
! costume.
/ while seeming to conceal is the coarse
meshed hemp sacking worn over snowy
| silks and satins by way Of foundation.
What with the sacking and the silk lin
/ ing thereof and the sturdier foundation Of
/ that in turn and the more intimate gar
ments concerning Wnlcn inquiry is lndlS-
| Greet a woman seems as many-coated as
Fancy waists show no signs Of becom-
ing nat or stale to the wearers or unprO-
htable to the sellers. They are made in
Powered silks, in huge checks, in gay
stripes They futter with lace, they fling
! ribbon banners to the air, they are barred
with tiny 1ounces, they are grotesque with
huge lapels. Pretty, TOO, are the jackets
worn over real waists or the brave front
| ed semblance Of them; jackets sharp point
ed N front and very short in the back to
display vide belts of satin. Zouave, bolero
and Eton jackets-called not bv these
names, since fashion has much ingenuity
in deVising new OneS-are not perhaps as
common as once they were, but their in
herent fitness for cunning little women"
save them from oblivion.
The new sleeves still hide their upper
inches under collarettes and shoulder
caDes Of lace which fan in folds or Of
muslin which is tortured into frils or Of
the cloth of the costume Not vet shall
one see the sleeve tight from waist to
| shoulder, casting off all DISCUSSES and
standing forth for what il is And nine
times out of ten the old sleeve retains its
hold and proves its usefulness the leg
of-mutton shape rather cOmmoner than
the balloon puff. And Of the lcg-Of-mut-
ton there is a distressing variety whose
sleeves are close from about two inches
above the elbow, but Wrinkied mousQue-
taire like, quite 10 the wrist. Stopping
not even here, they are bell muzzled to
the very knuckles, volleying lace wreaths
even beyond. Very inconvenient, one
would think.
justify eXtravagancies for their fair sake
A certain rich MORE velours shot with
gold or silver is winning its way even
| over the conventional white satin as n
bridal costume. But perhaps this is
freak not likely to be followed for though
set by a princess. No princess need wear
green tweed with silver buttons and a
wastcoat Of checked white and black silk
to have its beauty seen with appreciation