The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1896-02-03

flowers and arabesques. The waist was
cut away at the top to allow lace to be
draped down inside straps TO fall in two
little fan shaped friIls. This same idea
was carried out at the wrists, and the lace
formed dropping cuffs that almost hid the
hands. This gown was very handsome,
indeed, but the inexperienced dressmaker
would do well TO avoid attempting the
basque points, which would need an ex-
pert. Otherwise the costume would be
easy to develop. The other dress was very
elegant, though not quite as dressy, but
it is easier to reproduce.
The Persian designs in brocaded woods,
brocaded silks and satins are now printed
in all their marvellous coloriDgs and intrt-
cate designs on soft thin silks for over
-irts and sleeves to make in combina-
ION with other solid color. 1t Is impos-
sinIe to follow one of these designs where
pain and pine are formed and lost q hun
dred times in yard of it. It is like a
puzzle. Velvet and silk plush are also
printed in these patterns. In the Persian
patterns tle g-aTs and duh indigo blues
predominant, but these are inwrought
with indistinct green's and picked out
with yellows and reds, so that one can
scarcely tell which is what This silk
plush and velvet make wonderfully rich
garments no matter what they are. There
is peacock design which is superb. One
imagines that the art of the i:-cas had
been rediscovered and that we see the
tabled feather cloth before us. Bands,
collars, cuffs and other sparing scraps of
this trimming are often used on gowns of
dark foundation, and nearly always there
is little thread of gold woven in and out.
Black velvet dinner gowns are very
fashionable and always elegant, particu-
larly when trimmed with q little or
much real lace. If one has no real lace,
then little fine jet trimming would be
/. suitable. Velvet permits of no liberties.
There is new machine made black silk
lace which is almost why, it is so stiff.
1t has no special name as vet, and 1t ap
pears to have been designed especially for
trimming velvet and plush. In many
cases it is woven in collar patterns, and in
others a sort of stole bertha as we'll as
plain. 1t is very rich and is suitable
lace for velvet or plush. Indeed the first
I saw was on a short silk plush cape, dark
brown, with little flecks of tan colored
mohair upon it. There was a rounding
yoke of plated seal brown velvet. with a
rose plating of the same edging the yoke
This plating formed heading for a stole
bertha of this superb lace, which set up
quite stiff1y upon the shoulders. There
was a f1aring high collar of the plush;
altogether very chic little wrap. The
lace was the chief beauty
There is much Russian embroidery seen
on all sorts of things and much fine ap-
plique embroidery. 1 remember superb
visiting gown made of lead colored velour
du nord. The waist was round and
smooth. There was draped faille belt of
pale sage green. The yoke and forearms
were of the same faille, with an applique
of dark gray cloth, the edges buttonholed
with lead colored saddler's silk. Around
the yoke, collar and cuffs were set tiny os-
trich tips.
Among the latest novelties are the
printed taffeta changeable silks where ths
flowers are printed on in a way to form
bordering or pattern to go around the bot
tom, or on the front and two side breadths
of the skirt and nowhere else. The silks
are changeable all over and with the