The San Francisco call., 1896-04-05

of theirs from charitable institutions,
where the sewing and EN- broidering is eX-
quisitely done. This idea is an Excellent
one, as certainly it is more satisfactory to
ave hand work, and, besides, in New
York alone it means bread for many
starving women and young girls; so most
brides are now ordering at least one or
! two sets of underwear to be made by
hand.
Those who imagine they can tuck in q
piece of material in front and have a
lovely vest effect are sadly mistaken and
usually look hopelessly dowdy. One end
OF the stuff is certain to be sticking out,
or the whole arrangement, in spite of de-
tanning pins, slips around and gets
crooked so | have come to the conclusion,
from observation, that to successfully
make vest it must be fitted on a perfectly
tight lining of silk in preference, and the
lining once secure, the variations are
easily managed under skillful amateur di-
rections. A white silk lining fastened
down the back, supplied with small
sleeves, will do TO begin with. The front
can then be adorned with pleated tulle
and the neck may be finished with a stock
of Dresden ribbon or any new and pretty
ribbon, or with soft filling of tuile or lace
used as cravat, and when weary of these
arrangements try grasslawn, striped with
cream colored lace, making the pointed
collar to turn over a broad band of white
satin ribbon. These pointed collars are
extremely narrow, measuring at their
widest poin. only about one and a half
inches. Vests of black tulle, net and
chiffon, with an applique of cream lace,
are excellent. as is also one of white lisse,
with cream lace applique; and sensible
vest l have just seen is of plain white
tucked muslin, overhanging belt and
fastened down the front with tiny pearl
studs.
have been inspecting the newest mo-
hairs and alpacas ana find that they ap-
pear under every IMAGINABLE aspect
plain, shot and EN- broidered-but prefer
the plain ones, finding them the most
economical as well as the most attractive.
More than one stylish girl is going to
have a white motair skirt made over
white glace to take away with her this
summer, with which she will wear, per-
haps, dozen different waists, all of which
will be fashioned out of quaint and charm
ing fabrics composed of silk, most of them,
or of mousseline de sole, or chiffon. For
morning wear. in the country, one belle
has had two creamy skirts of batiste made
up, with which she will have one waist to
match, with bright green ribbons, over
which is arranged some fine French
batiste embroidery; then she has a waist
of palest blue organdy covered with buff
roses and trimmed with creamy lace. A
thick waist OF light.sprigged pale lawn has
match the batiste.
All of these will wash perfectly, and be
fresh and sweet all summer. I know
some of you will say, Why, alpacas, mohair
and batistes have been worn for two
years, SO this is nothing new, for by ma
ture we are critical. However, l am quite
aware of this and only make these sng-
gestions, as among the multitudes of pretty
summer things offered US this season 1t is
no easy matter to decide which are best to
select, and before making purchases ad-
wise you all to carefully examine last sum-
mer's garments, as frequently with little
care and management we can have very
beautiful outfit at trifiing outlay. re-
peat, that grass linens are to be very COM
mon.
Last year they were in such great vogue
that weli-dressed women no longer con-
slider them. Their day is passed for those
who are up to date, but naturally the
market will be flooded with them, the
plain ones, the Dotted the striped and
those adorned with cross lines and squares,
beside there are those that come done up
nicely in boxes with fronts, collars and
cuffs and white embroidery over color.
Do not be tempted by these-they are
not for you-that is, if you wish to be at
tired stylishly. An odd sort of robins
egg blue is to be had in both duck and
denim, but l, for my part, prefer the duck,
as it has an underthread of black, and it
costs just 81 so for a dress pattern OF twelve
yards.
One store here has the best assortment
OF French piques in town; in tact. have
seen none like them elsewhere. They
consist of narrow line of white in COM
bination with one of either pale blue.
light coffee color, pink or lavender,
through which runs tiny thread of
black. This is chic fabric, worth of close
inspection, as otherwise its price might, at
glance, seem rather high, as they are
SO cents per yard. For a skirt and jacket
nothing could be better, and for shirt
waists it is one of the prettest things in
town. Denims of blue and dark blue,
with white pique revers and cuffs, will be
seen at many resorts, ana the only OBJ
lection l have to them is that they are
rather too heavy. They will be worn with