davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
Correct
Things for Men
to Wear
Sack and Regulation
Lounge Suits or
Morning
Dress

Unless man intends to play lawn
bowls. golf or tennis, or wishes to ride,
drive or sail, he must, if at any fashion
able resort, if N his Office, indeed, if visi-
BILE at all, appear in lounge suit, but he
has one choice; he may wear either the
sack or the regulation lounge, or the morn
ing suit. The most fashionable lounge
coat has three buttons, the waistcoat and
trousers being of the same fabric. or, as !
have previously remarked, waistcoat of
brown Holland or linen with horn but
tons is correct and popular. Such coats
are rounded gradually away in front. In
England the flaps of the pockets even are
rounded and the coat must hang as nearly
straight as possible. I have seen several
excellent lounge suits here this summer,
but many have serious defect; the
shoulders slope entirely too much, when,
in reality, they should have decidedly
square effect.
I saw a New Yorker last Monday who
certainly was curiously attired. He had
on an excellent covert coat, good lounge
suit, an incorrect hat, very pointed shoes,
such as have entirely gone out, and the
latest style gray suede self-stitched gloves.
Truly an odd com bination. Fancy tan
shoes and suede gloves. Well, to. be sure,
this particular man is not known, when at
home, as ever being smartly dressed. 1
only mention these facts to call attention
to the fact that care should be bestowed on
every detail that relates to mans cloth
ing.
For wear. when yachting, nothing has
been found to equal blue serge made with
a REFER or peajacket for stormy weather.
Colored shirts are worn with such suits.
"For dinner or an evening reception, if
not in naval uniform, II simply a civilian
on board yacht, unless the occasion be
extraordinary, the same rules prevail as
at any other afternoon or evening func-
ton. The visitors, OF course, are dressed
as they would be on land. the members
of the yachting party in their yachting
clothes or in uniform, or in informal even.
ing dress. Generally here the Cowes or
dress jacket takes the place of the evening
coat by those who are living on board the
Yacht" G. C.
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
Maltese Lace in Vogue

Maltese lace is again in vogue, and with
chiffon of yellowish hue, it is quite de-
lightful. Entire bodices with filed
basques are being made yet with rare suc-
cess. A plain but beautifully fine, white
muslin frock having motifs of maltese
lace in wreath designs sewn round the
hem is positively charming.
Boleros are being made of all sorts and
kinds of stuffs; for instance, one rather
extravagant but very successful dress
maker utilized, the other day. for this pur-
pose, deep lace flounce with an applique
of bright tinted velvet guipnre round the
top and down the sides. Sac is now at
work on two more. One of these will
show mossy green combination and
another q lovely violet one. American
aud French women take very kindly TO
these smart little affairs and they GER
tainly give certain air and a finish to
any gown; one of lace over white alpaca,
with q touch of color, completely trans
formed it. A dress of white hopsacking
has gone to Lake Tahoe. 1t has bolero
braided in green and fichu outlined with
a quilting of black satin ribbon.
When going on short trip nothing is
more comfortable than one of the very
popular foulard dresses, and although
they have dark grounds when used for
such purposes. they are relieved by white
vests and chokers. Some also wear white
gloves and wells with them, but tan gloves
end black wells are in better taste. A good
model for such gown has round bodice,
A triple box pleat in the back is put on as
drapery, there being no seams, excepting
those under the arms. A leathern belt,
with a quaint and handsome buckle, looks
we'll ss q finish. However, many prefer
girdle of ribbon 10 match the frock,
which term mates in a smart bow
A beautiful woman should do every.
thing possible to increase her charms, and
an ugly woman should do everything pos
sible to hide her defects; in fact, an ugly
woman, dressed with care, has many times
proved serious rival to beautiful woman
carelessiy gowned.
From Newport comes the information
that "nlany young matrons are wearing
dazzling silks. Fer example, Mrs. F. NJ
P is perfect picture in a violet and
white Pekine skirt, jupe unie, the stripes
running straight up and down in front
Corsage of white mousseline de sole over
white silk, entirsly plisse. The sleeves
were particularly pretty, the tops in three
double ruffies plisse, and the lower arm
close-fitting and well draped over the silk
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
a Very Chic Woman


A very chic woman looks her best in q
white foulard silk covered with queer little
black scrolls. In this case the nest is COM
posed of black mousseline de sole over
white satin. On the mousseline are appli-
oued lace roses. The sleeves have a very
small puff and are ruched. This gown is
so skillfully arranged that it can also be
worn with q hchu of black mousseline de
sole, round which IS seen knife-pleating
of mousseline, which, in turn, is edged
with little Valenciennes lace. Foulards
are exceedingly fashionable and one hav-
ing white ground with blue pattern
upon it has lately been completed by
good woman. The bodice is scanned in the
center of the back and drawn in narrow
folds to the front, where it is fastened with
rosettes, ornamented with diamond but
tons. A loose rever falls on either side of
the bust to reveal a fichu and collar made
of esprit net, outlined with grass lawn
embroidery frilled with lace.
A skirt of good quality Of black and
white silk may be considered both an
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26

question is, of course, in regard to tying it.
All ignorant ones should know. then, that
the bow, when the sash is OF soft silk,
should be tied directly in the back. The
loop-ends OF the bowknot should be but
three or four inches in length, leaving the
ends to extend nearly to the bottom of the
gown. For a sash tied in this fashion
three yards is a good length, though some
of the newest sashes are only two and n
half in length. However, as the old-fash-
ioned sashes are four or five yards long,
and the length must be disposed of in
some fashion, the oIdtime bowknot, with
loops and ends nearly equal in length,
is still frequently seen. If the beauty of
the sash iustifies this departure from ac-
cepted styles the wearer is not likely to be
criticized
When moderately narrow ribbon is used
il is pretty fashion to tie the bow at one
side of the front in q wide milliner's knot
with several loops and two ends. This. is
becoming. however, only to slim figures.
At present the sash is the most conspic-
uous feature of fashionable dress. It is
we'll that it is being made the most of
while it is here, for it is too charming and
comfortable a fashion to endure long.
Shoulder capes and .mantles are all now
being marked down, and some of them are
certainly to be had at figures which would
not cover TIE cost of the fabrics employed.
Those of grass lawn over silk, much beau
titled with appliques of lace and sequins,
are sore temptations, but those of black
chiffon over black satin, white satin or
glace are well nigh irresistible. An even
ing cape of white cloth. lined with palest
green taffeta, has long scarf of the same
which ties in great bow in front. 1t is
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26

bordered with an odd Paisley pattern and
may be safely purchased and laid aside,
for it will do good service all next winter.
Young girls who dress smartly are quite
fascinating in the latest hats made of
chiffon, alternating with small frills of
lace. They are to be had in shades of
pale pink and delicate green principally,
these being the most becoming colors.
A spray of roses, or a mauvre iris Is the
only trimming. This latter is a flower
now enjoying great favor. but the reign of
flowers is drawing to close, for already
the leading milliners are discussing birds
and wings. The every newest quilts are
of soft texture and curled. Thus far this
novelty has not left Paris, SO such quilts
are extremely expensive. Ordinary cha
peaux having black quilts tipped with
white are in great demand. When used on
hat composed of a straw of iceIle
hue, tied with scarfs OF grass-lawn ribbon,
having narrow silk edge they look very
well. but the latest fad in the most exclu-
sive millinery establishments in Europe is
a ombination of white birds and cherries
or currants on the most chic of hats. There
is a steady demand for a Holland toue of
straw. Very picturesque and becoming
are the imported hats in Manila or Ital-
ian straw, trimmed with white feathers,
birds of paradise and mixtures OF roses
and ribbons beneat h the brim at the side.
They appear TO have been especially de-
signed to wear with the beautiful toilettes
of embroidered lawn. orGandy and muslin
which have so delighted our artistic souls,
and it is true that at Ascot and the Grand
Prix the best of the frocks were certainly
those of embroidered linen and those show
ing lace or lawn bodices allied TO shot silk
skirts.
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
What a Pretty Girl
Took to Santa
Cruz
The Fetching Canvas
Dress Worn BY a
San Rafael
Matron

A pretty young girl last week took to
Santa Cruz white grenadine. The bodice
Is tucked from yoke of silk embroidery,
which is outlined with a frill OF the grena-
dine, edged With violet ribbon, bordered
again with a narrow quilting of black
satin ribbon. No lovelier gown can be
conceived for an informal dance; indeed,
it is suitable for even large and formal
affair. The lining is of white taffeta
glace. / like frock she has of white
pique. for it is not only very well made,
but exceedingly useful as weIl 1t has
bodice made with some exceptionally fine
Irish lace, and short jacket as we'll, with
which she wears dainty vests of chiffon
and mousseline de sole as well, as short
waists of many colors, all we'll made and
most becoming, accompany this maiden,
vino is always smartly clad, on very
small allowance.
A stylish matron wore in San Rafael re-
Gently a dark-blue canvas made over
crimson-silk foundation. The bodice had
yoke effect in front made of very open
Persian embroidery. The sleeves were
tight-ftting with cuffs of the embroidery
lined with crimson silk, which extended
well over the hands. Full epaulettes of
the same were very becoming. A simple
black-straw hat with a roll of black chif-
fon and some unusually fine crimson roses
completed stylish costume. Another,
noted the same day, consisted of light
weight cloth skirt of hunters green and
chic jacket of light-tan shade
which fitted most perfectly. I cannot
understand why women will accept from
tailors and dressm akers gowns that simply
disfigu7e them. At present am thinking
Of a friend who has an unusually beautiful
figure, whom lately met attired in per-
fectly new tailor gown, and this garment,
although made TO order, could not have
been worse fit If bought ready made, for
the collar and revers wrinkled and set
simply horribly. Unless a tailor-made
costume fits to perfection about the neck
it is a botch, and even if you have fur
nished the materials it is wiser to leave it
with the tailor, as you will never have
moments satisfaction, If you have proper
pride in your appearance. MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26

economical and desirable purchase, for
it looks extremely we'll with bodice of
black chiffon, over white silk, trimmed
with white lace, or with one of white
chiffon, with here and there touch of
black. One such skirt worn with an ac-
Gordon pleated white chiffon bodice,
having transparent yoke OF fine black
thread all traced with diamonds, was pro-
nounced decided success.
do not presume it will do particle of
good to urge women not to wear their old
black skirts OF silk, satin or brocade with
light bodices, for they-most of them
dearly love the combination. It is far
from effective usually, and in summer de-
cidedly inappropriate. Those who pur-
chase two or three brocade or chine
bodices for this purpose make great mis-
take, for if the skirt must be utilized let
the evening bodices be studies in black
and white.or white and black. A broad
corselet belt of Jet traced with steel is said
to add much to such toilettes. Chiffon
when arrayed picture fashion and crossed
is very becoming to most figures, but
remember, skirts of black canvas, made
over black taffeta silk, are most desirable
10 wear with fancy bodices. They are
made perfectly plain, bur they must be
very we'll cut and hung, otherwise they
lose their .cachet. Bodices made
of silk showing tulle-flled basques of
satin ribbon, either black or coIored, are
said to be coming into fashion, as are also
the tabled basques made with edgings of
Killed ribbons. A bodice lately noted and
much admired was made of cream colored
satin, covered with creamy net of a
deeper tone, the basque and collar being
edged with quilting of satin.
The San Francisco call., 1896-07-26
NEW TO-DAY.
Special Saving Sale
BEER MUGS!

Those quaint old German Blue-deco-
The record-union., 1896-05-11

Money Saving Prices Per Set
$50. $50. 7.s5, 800, 0.So, 1880.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
ON SALE TO-DAY.

Special value in Heavy DAM
ask Table Linens, 24c and 33c
per yard.
An extra good quality of Turkey
Red Table Damask at 25c.
Afl-linen Heavy Unbleached
Towels, fringed ends, sizes d
inches wide, 42 long, for lie. An
elegant Satin Damask Towel,
fringed ends, fancy borders, p
inches wide 42 long, 15C. Same
size in Heavy Linen HuCk Towels,
15c. Satin Damask Towels, fancy
borders, 80 inches long 10 wide,
9Oc per dozen. All-Iinen Fancy
Check Large Size Napkins, 1Sx1S,
Csc per dozen. Linen Doilies, 25c
per dozen. Heavy Russian Bath
Towels, IS inches long Is wide,
zoe each.
The record-union., 1896-05-11

all trunk lines are double-tracked their
whole length. 1t is among the proba-
bilitieS that lines of this class will find
1t to their interest to still further
quicken their schedules, and nothing
is more certain than that their busi-
ness will demand additional trains.
Pending the additional trackage ia
c1l1ties mentioned, it is a logical con-
clusion that the number of wrecks will
increase. Hence the energies and ex-
perience of the department and the
companies must be devoted to the fur
ther consideration of such precaution-
ary measures as will tend to lessen the
destructive character of accidents
Washington Post.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
LOngfelIOw.

In biographical sketch of her father.
the poet, Longfellow, in the Cambridge
Magazine" Miss Alice Longfe1low says
that an unpaid bill weighed on him like
nightmare. He was so reserved and
talked so little about himself that some
times a volume of his verses would ap-
pear in print without his family ever
knowing that it was in course of prepa-
ra ton. He was fond of children to the
extent Of permitting them to play mar
bles on carpet having a pattern very
desirable for the purpose.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
A Bright Double Eagle

Is pleasant object to contemplate, par
ticularly if one happens to be its pro-
prietor But the hue of that justly es-
teemed coin is not provocative of admira-
ton when visible in ones complexion.
This indication of biliousneSs, as well
as discomfort in the vicinity of the liver.
fur upon the tongue, sick headache, sour
ness of the breath, nausea, constipation
and dyspepsia are speedily remedable
with the never failing aid of Hostetter' s
Stomach Bitters, the finest Alternative,
carminative and corrective in existence.
AS a preventive and remedy for malarial
complaints it is also thoroughly reliable.
They whose sedentary pursuits tend to
impair the active discharge of active di-
gestion and bilious secretion never seek
its help in vain. 1t is a capital appetizer
and promoter of nerve Quietude
The record-union., 1896-05-11
COME in a aN1 the GIT i,nss a LIS, tss

COME IN AND GET A LIST
OOlVlL IN of the lines that
we are closing out. You can save
more than one-half on the pur-
chase price if you find your sizes.
MEMS WEAR.
Mems Undershirts and Drawers
in merino and Canton flannel,
Mems Light and Heavy Over
shirts, rlen's Suspenders, ITEMS
Socks, ITEMS Fine Heavy Wool
Pants, Mems Suits, sizes "a to 81;
Mems Stiff Hats, ITEMS Vests,
sizes "a to 81; Boys ST Bicycle
Navy Blue Overshirts, SOC;
Whips, Buggy Robes, Shoe Black
ing; ITEMS and Boys Linen Col
lars, ITEMS Plain and Link Linen
Cuffs, ITEMS White Shirts, Silk
Neckwear and other lines, ALL
TO CLOSE.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
MONEY SAVING DISHES

lunch Buckets, Coffee Pots, Cream
Pitchers, Oat Meal Bowls, Custard
Cups, Spooners, Plates, Dairy Pans,
Hand Basins. Be each, or for 25c.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
RAILROAD TIME TABLE.
PACIFIC SYSTEM.l
AVE TRAINS RUN DAILY. ARRIVE
orr (From)

11:OO p Ashland and Portland $40 A
Gao y AICalistoga and Napa........ $40 Z
800 = Calistoga and Napa........ 1l:2O A
b:2O + Deming, Ell Paso ana East 1925 A
4:50 PlColfax 1905 A
T:2O + Knights La Dig * OrOville T:45 A
1925 a Los Angeles 1850 p
500 PILos Angeles and N. Orlns 1925 A
11:4O A Atlantic Express for Og-
den and East-........ 4:5O p
1000 P European Mail for Ogden
and East......,..... ... 6:5o A
3:25 p Oroviile via Rosev lie J'ncl 1915 A
4:3o a Red Bluff via Knights
La'd'g and Marysville.l 6.2O p
*6:45 A Red Bluff Via Woodland $3.50 z
2:25 p Red Bluff via Marysvilie 1O:15 A
1880 A Reddng via Willows. 3:55 z
$40 i San rance via Benica ll:2O A
6:1O A san Franco via Benicia.- $40 p
6:45 A san Franco via Benlcia.I 1885 Z
500 i IAN Fran co via Benlcia.. $40
$1,000 A San Fran co via steamer $500 A
10:25 A San Fran. via Livermore 2:5O p
1O:2O A san Jose. $50 Il
1929 AiSanta Barbara..........~. $3.50 p
6:45 AlSanta ROSa.................-... $40
300 L santa aROSa...................I 11:20 n
1U:25 A Stockton and Gait..-... $50 z
$50 z Stockton and Galt~....-.. 1925 A
11:4O A l'Iruckee and Reno ,..... 4:5O p
1000 PlTruckee and Reno....... $50 A
GAO a ...............---.... $40
800 + lNalleJO. 11:2O A
900 a Folsom and Placerville... $40 2
$50 PIFolsom and PlacervIlle... 9:15 \
f9:40 A Folsom and Placerville.. i4:30 p
SUNDAY ei excepted. 1Monday s'teroeon, e1cepted.
RICHARD GRAY, Gen. Traffic Manager.
I. Il. GOODMAN, Gen. Passenger Agent.
JUDSON EXCURSION TAsr 1Sr 81 Po,pss Esapss
ayers through to Chicago and Boston. Lowest
rate. Call on e. ]. ELLIS, Agent 8. p. Co.,
or address JUDSON & CO., 19
Montgomery street, San Francisco.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
DINNER SETS
DINNER SETS

100 Pieces, complete for 12 persons.
Pure White, Delicate Blue, Brown
and Rich Gold Spray Decorations.
The record-union., 1896-05-11

A-For morning. P-For afternoon.
SUNDAY excepted. SMonday excepted
fSunday only.
RICHARD GRAY, Gen. Traffic Manager.
I. 81. GOODMAN, Gen. Passenger Agent
The record-union., 1896-05-11

44 Pieces, com plete for 12 persons.
Pure White, Delicate Blue, Brown
and Rich Gold Spray Decorations.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
lU( MONEY SAVERS

Berry Dish, Milk Pals, Meat Dish,
Dish Pans, Mustard Pots, Vegetable
Dish, Salad Dish. 1Oc each, or 8
for csc.
The record-union., 1896-05-11
MORE NEW MILLINERY GOODS.

Saturday last we received five 81 cases Of the cele-
brated Ladies CONSUELO HAT in Saw, Pearl,
Patent Milan and English Milan Braid, wide and
medium brins, 18c and up. X y y - * -
The record-union., 1896-05-11
NEW FIRM.

BERT MARTIN AND WILL H
Young are now ready to receive the pat
ronage of all their friends who wish to
be served with drst-claas meats Of au
kinds. Place Of business northwest corner
Twelfth and Q streets. Give the boys
The Butler weekly times., 1896-09-03
Trustees Sale.

Whereas D W Snyder and Annie NJ snvds,
his wife. by their deed of trust dated Sentsm'.
Der 5th. 1894. and recorded in the recorder.
office within and for Bates county, Missonri
in book No ls7 page l5S conveyed to W sill.
vers. trustee the following described re.,
estate lying and being situate in the county
of Bates and state OF Missouri. to-wit:
East eighty two (S2l feet of lot one () in
block five (5j In Williams first addition to ths
town of Butler, which conveyance was made
in trust to secure the payment of two prom
issory notes in said deed described. and
whereas default has been made in the pay.
ment OF said notes now past due and unpaid,
and whereas it IS In said deed of trust further
provided that in case of the death inability
absence or refusal to act of L w Siiysrs the
then acting sheriff of Bates county, Missouri.
at the request of the legal holder of said notes
shall proceed to sell the same; and whereas
the said L w Silvers refuses to act Now
therefore. at the request of the legal holder OF
said notes and pursuant to the conditions of
said deed of trust l ID A Cclyer. the under.
signed sheriff OF Bates county. Missouri, will
proceed to sell the above described premises
at public tendue to the highest bidder for cash
at the east front door OF the court house In
the city of Butler, county of Bates and state OF
Missouri, on
Saturday September 26, 1896,
between the hours OF nine o'clock in the fore.
noon and five O'Clock IN the afternoon of that
day. for the purposes of satisfying said debt.
interest and costs ID. A. COLfER.
AT Sheriff OF Bates County, Mo,
The Butler weekly times., 1896-09-03

Globe Democrat Republicans will
not be allowed to take part in the
proceedings of the Indianapolis Con
vention, but they can fairly claim
the privilege of referring to it as one
OF the influences in favor of their
party.
That's true. The bawlipg god
bug democrats are nothing more nor
less than Mckinley republicans, and
they should have been honest and
declared themselves accordingly
The Butler weekly times., 1896-09-03

Mckinley in his acceptance says a
high tariff will raise revenue to cup
port the government. John Sherman
says he would tax the shirt off the
poor mans back to sustain the cred
it of the government. Mckinley,
Hanna and Sherman will make thing g
boil if they get in. The poor man 8
shirt will have to 60, with his waist
coat and coat thrown in.
The Butler weekly times., 1896-09-03

The gold bug ticket will get poor
comfort in Bates Co. We have had
an expression from most of the gen
tlemen who espoused the '.sound
mopey' side before the convention
and without exception their views
conform to that aptly expressed by
Ho; L. j. Smith, who said: II am a
democrat aud always bow to the will
of my party expressed in convention.
l will support Mr.. Bryan and the
Chicago platform, and my services
IN the campaign are at the command
of the central committee. Mr..
Smith is one of the best LAWYERS in
this section OF state and his opinions
always command respectful atten-
ton. Those sore head democrats
who held Il rump convention in St
Louis last week and endeavored to
turn the state over TO the republi-
cans, might we'll learn lesson from
the manly utterances of this able
lurist and distinguished democrat.