The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-07-05
sEcREr or eooD coEFEE.
Nothing 20 he Compared With Pure
Java. says an Expert.

From the New York sun.
The coffee expert had finished eating
the substantial part OF his dinner. and
the waiter had just brought % INN The
first one OF his inyariable TWO cups Of
coffee. The expert poured the hot milk
into the coffee. tasted the mixtare. and
. his eyes shone with delight as he ex-
claimed:
"Ah. that's a fine cup OF coffee. It is
pure Java. and OF the best quality. and
think I can guess just how j, comes that
we haven't got the usual mixture to-
night.
we usually get here Is a mixture OF half
and half Java and Maracaibo-lnd a very
good mixture that IS, tOo-hut there is
nothing like the pure Java Now, what
has happened is this; Inc res aurant man
4 has sent IN a hurry fer coffee al late
hour. and the clerk who was Co make the
mixture has found the Maracaibo bin
empty. So rather than get out a fresh
/ supply of MaracaibO, ne has filled the
J order entirely from the Java bin. * was
easy for him, but rough on his employer.
F for this Java is worth cents pound
I more than the Maraca-bo.'
Z What is the best .coffee Ia the world,
and where does IL come from one Of his
/ companions asked.
Java" was the lacon.c answer.
/ "But we read in novels about the he
/ roes or heroines sitting down % a cup OF
/ the fragrant Mocha, and the term is used
! with an air OF assurance as much as 10
say that when II came to coffee there
was but one kind and that was Mocha
I What is MOcha?"
Mocha is mostly a tradition and wholly
I a fraud" declared the expert There IS
| no coffee grown about Mocha, but there
are Indian coffees shipped from Mocha.
] The popularity of the Mocha of the trade
/ is that IL is composed mostly Of round
| berries instead Of fiat berries OF the
more perfect coffees These fat berries.
or peaberries, as they are also called, are
/ simply ill-grOWn, imperfect fruit Most
/ of what is sold for Mocha In the stores
is made up from the imperfect berries
which have been sorted out from the
mild coffees of Mexico and Central Amer
lea and Santos cofrees. In some stores
/ you can buy the genuine Mocha, and
| when you get It you are worse or than if
you have the imitation"
How is that?"
TT is sure to be full Of Quakers."
| And what are Quakers?"
, THE next time you go into a coffee
store take up a handful Of roasted cof-
fee and spread IL out. If II all looks alike
in color it is free from Quakers, but if
you find here and there berries which are
lighter in color than the rest pick them
out. These are the Quakers.
| when coffee is gathered, Il has about
the berries a soft pulp. To get rid of this
! the berries are put on mats and left to
ferment. This rots Off the outer pulp and
| 1t can then be got rid Of But this pro-
cess of fermentation sometimes goes too
| far and affects the berries. This is more
| apt to be true with the imperfect berries
| than with the others. If you will take
the Quakers and break them open. you
| will find that they present all stages Of
decay. Some of them are merely dry
rOtted and have no flavor OF any kind.
| From this they will vary until you come
| to the worst ones, which swell like rot
| ten potatoes when they are opened. One
bean of this kind will spoil whole grind
ing of coffee and any coffee with Quakers
will be bad. Mocha has more than any
| other kind"
But suppose you get rid Of the Qua
kers, how is the Mocha them"
Still bad. 1t has little flavor, and TO
make up for this lack the dealers give
It a very dark roasting. Then they rec
ommend It to people to add strength to
the light mild Java. 1t does add strength
to the color of the extract, but that is
due entirely to the burnt sugar and starch
in the vegetable matter in the bean.
Roasted peas would answer the same pur-
There are two things which people Inn
agine are guides to the goodness of cot
fee which are really Of no consequence
| whatever. These ares: The color of the
| decoction and the arenas of the coffee
| when II is ground or as this escapes
| from the pot in drawing. The color Is
due almost entirely to the roasting. This
| Is true also of tea. The finest coffees and
teas when properly roasted and prepared
to give out their finest haVOrs viii color
the water but little. The real essences
which give the flavor have practically no
| color
1.-The public seemingly knows but little
| Of what the real taste OF coffee should be.
1t confounds the bitter taste of the roast
ed vegetable matter with the entirely dis
| similar flavor of coffee, and learns to like
this so much that ii insists upon having
the coffee roasted so highly that any
| flavor of coffee which 1t might have had
is driven off. AS to the aroma, that is
the true essence of the coffee. The rea-
| son that this is no guide to the quality
of the berry is that there is Just as much
of this essence present in the rankest
| coffees as there is in the mild ones. Your
| nose would be as delighted with the arO-
ma from lot of fresh roasted Rio coffee
as it would with the finest Java. In the
| coarse-havored coffees there are oils more
Or less volatile, and many of these cof-
fees are improved by keeping them stored
lofts for five or six years. Java does not
need this.
Boston and its neighborhood have the
best taste for coffee Of any part OF this
| country and New York is next. Boston
has its coffee roasted the lightest. We
take a medium roast for our ordinary
| sales, but the Germans want their coffee
go to the dealers of the highest repute
| and buy nothing but Java. Good coffees
| are standard as gold, and you needn't
| be disappointed If you don't find fine
Java from a department store or ordin-
! airy grocer for % or 20 cents a pound
| when the standard price is 36 cents. Next
to Javas come the Maracaibo coffees, and
| Santos furnishes some nice mild coffees.
ELECTRIC GUARDS.