The record-union., 1896-11-15
have cups both for. candles and for

d
| themselves to caring for crippled chill
| Cren. They learn of the little unfOr-
tunates through the different hospitals,
| and then, when they are no longer un-
der the physicians care, and go home,
perhaps. invalids for life. each member
of the society takes one of the children
under her wing, to teach, to amuse, to
help in whatever way she can. Certain
| days are given to the visits to ones
| protege, and the work carried on is
systematic if the child is well. II feeble
or i'll, music and games and little talks
take the place of a course of instruc-
| ton. Self-help and development are,
however, always kept in mind.
Black is held in great favor both here
| and abroad. A somewhat eccentric
taste for black cloth, yellow lace and
black silk muslin and fur in combina-
| ton is manifested by certain celebrated
ateliers over the sea. Plain Venetian
and faced" cloth of exquisite f1neness
| is reckoped among the fabrics suitable
| cor very stylish and elegant visiting
and dinner gowns, and its light weight
allows of more delicate colors being
| used for day costumes than 1t would
be possible in less heavy textile. Some
of the wide expensive cloths hold the
same important place in the fashionable
rogramme as moire and velvet.
A city bridesmaid recently wore with
a rose-pink satin gown a picture hat OF
am-white velvet, the brim near the
head showing lining of shell-pink sat
in, the hat rolled somewhat at the left
side, and some soft beautiful white os-
tcich plumes dropped over Its head. On
the right side were standing plumeS ana
wide satin ribbon loops drawn through
q large buckle of French brilliants, and
at the back a cluster of pale-pink velVet
.oses rested ON the beautiful chestnut
brown hair This model would be very
handsome in black and pink.
Danish red is a very popular shade
of that very fashionable color. Many OF
the silks and satin brocades are over
patterned and cOlor-miXed to the extent
CT vulgarity, cost what they may. Inc
tendency to excess of elaboration Is as
marked here as it is in other directions.
We see, for instance, a shot and dotted
silk sufficiently snowy and attractive
without the addition of Wreaths OF flow
els, huge single blossoms or monstrous
bow-knots. tale SatinS with broad
blocks of black satin are sprigged with
leaves, shamrocks, pple-blossoms and
hrysanthemums-in short, the season
motto seems to be Excess"
Many Of the fancy woods are woven IN
two colors, threads of heavy silk out
lining the wool figure. Green wools
have markings and underweaves OF
Danish red, while brown is similarly
woven with blue or dahlia red. Tiny
dots are on new repped goods that are
woven of double cord width in russet,
gray-blue, olive-gray or black CASH
mere effects are also new on nne SoIt
woolens of quite heavy quality. These
excite much inquiry as to the uses tney
are designed for, whether for portions or
gowns, for wrappers, or carriage wraps.
Figured serges are also shown with
stripes of contrasting color Chevlots
and vigognes have two colors, one OF
which is very often brown, as blue
diagonal alternating with chestnut, or
else green with tan or russet brown.
Vigognes and cheviots come in wide
diagonals. sometimes in two colors,
sometimes three, with very rough sur
faces that are shaggy, yet too fine and
too loosely woven to be uncomfortably
heavy
The stylish and rich-looking silk and
wool mixtures will be largely employed
in the making of church, visiting and
promenade costumes for the winter In
its weaving, the silk threads are thrown
,,yfo off
goods and a rich lustrous effect pro-
duced. Some of the fabrics are in hand
some shaded effects; others show mix
ture of Danish red moss-green, and
black amber, brown, violet and reseda,
gray, golden olive, and dahlia red, etc.
Many velvet effects appear on fancy
wool goods in dots, bars and stripes.
Again the ribbon weavers have great
cause for elation. The looms are fly
ing. for ribbons are to be used all winter
and particularly during the holiday sea-
son, when leagues and tons of ribbons
ere utilized Wide ribbons will again
flow from the nape of the neck nearly
to the skirt-bem, a la Vatican, on even
ing toilets Rosettes ruches, choux,
coquille pleatings, frills of ribbon, and
sashes narrow, medium, and wide, tied
in front, a PEmpire, at the side, en-
chateylaine, or at the back, will be the
rage Bows and ends will decorate the
shoulders. and ribbons laid fiat on the
skirt or arranged in rose shapes or
bows are among the new hints in the
direction of trimmed evening skirts.
For theater wear are pretty velvet
capes. with very flaring Medici collars,
trimmed with ostrich feathers and lined
with color like the cape, and a smart
little bonnet matches this lining in hue.
| Among the treasures in dress brought
! from Paris recently is a Henry II. cape
Of black velvet, finished with jetted
| Medici collar of great richness and elab-
Grafton. The cape is lined with jonquil-
| yellow watered silk. En- suite is a
French bonnet of canary-yellow velvet
arranged in such folds and shirrings as
only a Partisan can produce. Novel
| cut Jet bands and ornaments, trio of
| blackbirds, and three black velvet flow
ers of unknown species form the gar
ritures. A very large black velvet muff
| lined with yellow moire is trimmed with
cascades of black chiffon, huge jet
| buckle and a cluster of very handsome
| ostrich tips
| There are few women who will not
! be pleased with the fact that corded
silks and silk and WOODEN reps are once
more in fashionable favor. For dura-
b.lity and handsome appearance few
| materials can compare with the silk
warp repped woods. In black they look
| equal to rich corded silks; they hold
their color better than silk. unless that
| silk costs many dollars yard; they do