The San Francisco call., 1896-11-22

should never be stretched either to the
right or to the left.
In some cases the sleeves will be found
difficult to handle, unless they have cloth
strappings. In that case q seam can be
put down the center to disguise the fact
beneath a strapping. The fullness of the
basque may be allowed to remain, al
though it is not according, exactly, to the
latest of fashions DEGREES. Dresses COM
| posed of a coat and skirt are still easier to
make over, as they all have vests, and
such smart, chic little affairs as some of
them arel They really make a most or
dinary little gown dressy, as nowadays no
ella alteration scarcely is considered too
great for them. / lately admired one of
patterned Indian velvet. 1t had an odd
cerise ground, which appeared to be in
terwoven with a turquoise blue thread,
and over it was a raised Oriental figure in
black velvet; the effect was admira bic.
Vests of chiffon are cf great service. One
of black chiffon striped with grass-gre
velvet baby ribbon liked. 1t had a foun-
dation of black taffeta glace and soft
crush collar of the same shade OF green
velvet. This vest made a fine black serge
remarkably becoming to dainty matron
who has fair hair and blue eyes and col
| oring that is ruined by immediate con-
tact with black.
/ have heard of another vest which is
said to be very swell; it is of white cor
duroy velvet, bordered from neck to waist
with band of colored velvet edged with
! sable; and from Paris are some novelty
fronts of alternate bands of fine broad in
sertion and tucks of chiffon, edged with
narrow bands of sable. The way such
vests should be finished at the neck varies
according to the size and length of the
| wearer's throat. The woman with the
long throat should carry out a sort of
stockllke effect with the chiffon, but her
| short, plump sister must content herself
with few soft folds. The most univer-
sally becoming of vests are of some soft
! fabric in white or cream, but for econom-
| ical winter wear / recommend that shades
of periwinkle blue, mauve. turquoise in
chiffon or mousseline de sole be selected.
| also excellent are many of the handsome
| plaided silks; the green plaid is, for the
| moment, the most stylish. With her
blue serge dress stylish school girl wears
green plaid silk front with white linen
collar and green stock of brighter
shade than that which appears in the
check, but / have for this week given sus-
fcient suggestions for vests Sleeves con-
| tinue to be a subject of warm interest.
| For evening wear fashionable women
are coming back to the small empire puff
as far as size is concerned, but the simple
| piece of material gathered at either edge
is a thing of the past. There is generally
| close-ftting band beneath, which pre-
vents the under arm being unduly seen.
Above this are small double hounces of
| thin material, or puff which is gathered
| at intervals perpendicularly. The upper
puffs, by means of swansdown stuffing or
being gathered over wire or whalebone, or
crossway folds in the thicker stuffs, as
sumo breadth which permits them to
support as they should the cape trim
mings of the bodice. Some are using wire
to support bows, sleeves, aouncings, but
| it needs the most careful usage or it gives
| hard, unnatural stiffness.
But few will object to the return of the
tuck. as it has the merit of being both
simple and inexpensive. Tucks are seen
covering the lower portion of sleeves, and
they also border the hens of skirts and
are carried across, horizontally, the front
OF morning gowns, and they entirely
cover the front of many full evening
bodlces, when of gossamer fabrics, they
are then drawn together and much puck
| cred.
Small tounces have appeared on the up-
| per portion of numerous sleeves Thew
almost, or quite, cover many skirts. and
a large number of the latest fronts arc
adorned with them. As natural respIt
the question arises. how should tbev he
bordered2 The most effective and FASH
| ionabie bordering thus far discovered is
narrow black velvet put Just above the
edge, or slightly wide- bordering of