St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1896-03-20
HAWAII, THE "PEARL OF THE
PACIFIC"
The Tenth of Series of Letters by
John K. Musick.
copyright, 1896, by Funk & Wagnalls
Company, New York.


Company, New York,
The Island OF Kauai is sometimes
called the Garden Island of the
group. 1t is one vast flower garden
bet ween ninety and one hundred
miles in circumference. Vegetables,
however, are not grown very sue
cesslully there. The island is said,
by biologists, to be the oldest of the
group. One thing is certain, Kauai
has better roads than any of the
other islands, and after wandering
through the stony, painless forests
of Hawaii, one finds the roads of
Kauai delightful garden paths.
On January 6, 1896, the little
steamer Mikahola lay at her dock in
Honolulu Harbor. At 4 p. m. |
aighted from the carriage, walked
up the gangway, and took my posi-
on the captains bridge to watch the
process of loading mules.
This is an interesting sight. The
vessel has derrick rugged on the
deck, and a broad belt is passed
under the mule to which hook is
attached above his back. AS the
engine starts, the mule is lifted from
his feet and landed on deck, much to
his disgust. One of the most anus
ing incidents have ever witnessed
was getting a vicious mule on board
this vessel.
This mule was brimful of his
Satanic majesty, and flashed more
birthstone from his eyes than the
great volcano is doing today. His
heels were light and played with the
rapidity of lightning about among
the natives, and when they began to
put the belt under his body, he smiled
in his sardonic way, and seemed to
be saying: lust watch me buck
when they tighten that cinch!" He
seemed to labor under the delusion
that a saddle was being placed on
him. At last the belt was fixed, the
hook inserted in the ring, and the
mate blew his whistle to start the
engine.
Puff, puff-rattle, rattle" the belt
began to tighten and the mule
thought it time to "buck." He ele-
waited his back until it grew round,
and all four of his feet left the ground
at the same moment. Now came
the surprise. He expected to land
flat-footed in such way as to COM
pletely paralyze everything, but the
cinch frightened and his muleship
swung high in the air, until such a
look of disgust and amazement came
over his countenance as would make
fortune for farce comedian. His
gyrations, kicks, and struggles in
mid-air soon ceased, and he was
gently lowered to the deck. He
seemed to have it in for" the mate,
for every time that parsonage came
in sight the mules heels flew out like
springs toward him.
At three O'Clock in the morning the
steward raped on the door of my
state-room and said we were enter.
ing the port of Nawiiwili. | had
not the slightest idea where was to
land, but somehow instinctively felt
that this must be my destination.
awoke sleepy and cross, dressed hur-
riedly, seized my travelling bag and
artists portfolio, and lett the state
room just as the anchor was
dropped.
Three ladies, myself, seven Japanese
and fourteen Cinnamon were the
passengers to disembark. The har-
Dor was not very rough though the
water was slightly undulating. We
were compelled to climb down a
rope ladderan enter boat manned
by a crew of dusky Hawaiians. This
feat, in the night, is not pleasant
especially when boat and ship are
bobblIng in different directions.
AS soon as the mail was brought
off the omnibus took us to the hote
at Likue, about one and half miles
from the landing. | was shown tC
my room and informed that DR.. E. c
Goodhue, the government physician
at Koloa, would call Tor me during
the forenoon. Shortly after break
fast he came to take me to Kooa as
his guest.
The ride from Likue to Koloa was
delightful. The day was fair, the
roads but for the red soil, might
remind one of New England. The
kukua trees, or screw pines, and wilc
breadiruit grew on every side. Or
the way we paused at the Kaua
Industrial school, which was estab
ished by Dr. J. S. Smith and his sis
ter. There are sixty boys in attend
ance at this school, where they arr
not only given good English educa
ton, but are taught useful trades
such as carpentering, blacksmithinl
and farming.
AS we reached the beautiful villag
of koloa with its great old suga
mill, noticed in front of one of tn
larper and better houses the plnrinn