The morning times., 1896-10-18


lar that turns up about the ears in coldest
weather, and the majority of Innings with
these are in black or sensible wearing Col
ors.
The fancy capes are extremely Inagnifi-
cent where their Innings are concerned,
these running to pale broCades in superb
weights, and often finished at the bottom
with narrow quilting of the same or
else one OF rich lace Where the tail OF
the garment is slashed. in gothic points
or squares, as is frequently the case,
fringe OF soft, oid-loDking lace under
meath, or chiffon Killed and doubled, Will
often peep out through the openings.
At the neck the high collar OF the fur
will be ruffled again with chiffon. and
the front will show tabs of rich lace and
knots of Russian violets One daShng
little cape, so designed, was of broad
tail, the delicate baby lamb with a tiny
quilting Of black tulle edging the bottom
OF the white brocade lining.
Another of the curled lamb itself had n
! gored yoke OF white kid, each gore pointed
at the bottom and outlined narrowly with
| the lamb.
A few OF the short capes are adjusted
| gracefully buck and front to the figure.
| u wide belt of beaded galoon or white EN-
broidered kid being used for this purpose.
| And no matter how heavy the fur of these
| elegant shoulder wrappiDgs. for they are
scarcely more-tUle, chiffon and lace will
! appear ON them somewhere. the combina-
| tiUn giving look OF coquettish softness in
| valuable 10 the sex, and impossible to fur
| alone.
When in the shape of jackets the new
| furs are mainly without trimming.
| though soIne will be ornamented with a
! contrasting skin and few will show
vests of white kid on the embroidered
| leather mentioned. AN imported model
| in sealskin. which by the way is again
in fashionable favor, had wide revers.
| collar. and pointed cuffs of the brown kid
| beautifully perforated and embroidered.
| Two or three big jewcled buttons, fast
> ening 4 loose double-ureasted sacque. or
| holding a close one at the waist over q
| vest. will appear on other imported models.
| Then II there Is q brown or white kid vest,
there may be a little jabot at the throat.
| though for the most part the fur Jackets
are designed toward an eye for real USE
fulness more than folderoi effect
Sealskin is most frequently used alone,
but many of the Jackets in Persian lamb
and broad-taii will have handsome vests
| and perhaps other trimmings of ermine.
A coat with an ermine vest, illustrated,
! is of silken Persian, Which is that beau
tiful waved skin Of the very young ami
nal. Moirc antique, or watered silk, is
said to have been copied from this rare
and expensive skin, and which is one of
the most expensive Of the Persian lamb
family Broad-tail is taken from tile still
younger animal, and though delightful to
| wear and look at, is a expensive as perish.
able.
In design the newest of the fur Jackets
are fitted at the back and half loose at
tue front with a vest. The sleeves are
small ggots, and instead of tue old rip
pied effect of the tail, the fullness at the
back is generally distributed In two in
turning plaits. One handsome Persian
jacket seen at smart place had scarcely
any fullness in tie basque, slight flare
at tue hips and back, giving the required
ease at these points. AT the furriers' it
was learned that this method of cutting was
approved by the swell set. In other words
to have much fullness at the back Of your
fur coat was TO tell the world that you had
bought 1t at cheap place and were not
up to snuff and fur etiquette. SO subtle and
damning are tue ways Of fashion
Many of the cloth Jackets are fur-trim.
med, and among the imported novelties there
are some ravtshing combinations in fur and
velvet. 4s
A splendid model in chinchilla had a
loose, short sacque o,the fur and draped
sleeves, fitting closely at the forearm, oil
black velvet. A visite of extreme elegance
was In a brilliant shade of marine blue
velvet, With bands OF imperial Russian sa
BILE, that noble and priceless skin once
reserved for royal ladies alone. This
is also here pictured.
Loose cape sleeves distinguish many Of
OF the coats. and here and there some
dainty odd model In seal or broad-tail v III
have a vest of velvet or kid In a gray
color, sNathed at the waist with a broad
belt OF black moire. But these are only
novelties, ornaments for show cases. ant
conspicuous things to keep away from Il
one Is Emitsd In wardrobe q I'D funds.
In other materials Jackets will be thi
wraps more worn than capss. but because
i OF the clunlsiness OF an all-fsr coat, a!