New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-02-02

mondaino7 VII have llt,le noel Of gowns until
there is a hnt OF approaching sprng in the world
OF fashion
Just FOR the moment tho drossmakors are show
ing what they term "milw'rier c3sturn.s"-heavy.
rather severely made gowns or SUITS to be- worn
the street. with the addition ~ q flr wrap or
col" For This purpose PLAID velve's ~. pretty
and modish. but the heavy "solda' cloths" ar.
much liked They come In all dark shades bu, the
military blue is used great dea'. have seen
very smart gown OF this combined with white
Goth
Tho skirt rs unlnel. COR this heavy cloth needs 70
lining. ana Is cut with many scans clch seam
being Outlined with piping % white The TWO side
seams on each Side are cut almost straight ana
shirred over TIE hips You understand that n,tl
hv little We are getting ava~ from the universal
use OF the goiet or pure umbrella" skirt
change must come and the houfrant appearance
over the hips has become most Fashionable AMI
commonly socn-that Is commonly seen a. the dress
makers. FOR n IS universally admitted that Paris
is the last city in the world for important
display OF toilets. Tho bodice OF this gown Is
"gnar;' and simple !, is fitted wl.s, finished
with narrow belt Of back ribbon. PASSED through
a white pearl buckle with no bow or ends. Tho
front OF the waist "a OF white cloth and l. covered
by plastron OF blue CLOTH trimmed with clusters ot
rather small white pearl buttons. The plastron is
chapel to the figure and of a little above the
bust. with straps going Mp the shoulders. This
leaves small yoke OF white ard the pastron is
narrow enough % show some white the sides
The chokcr is Of blue with wings % white under tie
ears. The back Of the bodice is OF bue and
trimmed. The blue cloth sleeves have golet Of
white cloth on the outside OF the arms running to
a point at TIE elbows.
saw Interesting gowns at Redfern's yestcr
day and noted the difference between the character
Of his Paris models and those at the London
house. The former quite Partisan the
latter are English. gown OF green cloth nicely
combined with fancy pink velvet with tiny sprays
Of flowers scattered It, over the velvet bodice
Is p.astror OF green. trimmed with irdescent but
plnksh buttons and edged with black fur This
plastron Is opened In front show a narrow runle
OF white ribbon which corresponds n vest: and
the strape that run up on the shoulders broaden
to form fiat. pointed wings over the sleeves There
| are white wings over the pink velvet choker. The
skirt is unrimmed. for a band Of fur about the
bottom This model. with the pastron covering a
fitted bodice and the ruffle down the front is a
favorlte at this house.
Another pretty gown is Of tabac- brown cloth the
skirt handsomely trimmed with black braid The
braiding up the AMI side seams for about
a foot and black is always very effective this
shade Of brown. The vest is a double runie OF
white ribbon and yellow lace. very thckly gath
cred on each side OF the rufile the brown cloth Is
arranged in a loose fold held TO the figure near the
waist by four large fancy buttons Above a jacket
| effect 10 given 10 the bodice by wnglike revers
| These OF black satin. trimmed with an en-
bro1ery Of green beads and pallettes and edged by
a thick double ruchng Of green ribbon. these
| are much smaller wings Of white satin covered with
| yellow lace and also edged with the green ruch-
| ing Belt and choker OF black satin The color
| idea Of the gown is very fetching"
4 black satin gown is simply but effectively
| trimmed with breteles OF lace and embroidery,
| which pass under the belt and fall few inches
down on the There ir soft front Of yell
| low lace. and the belt is OF black jets.
There certain shops II the Rue de la Pax
| which make a specially OF the many dainty tribes
| that form such important part In a Partisan
toilet. \ pretty lttl 'co is Of pink satin covered
| with rows and OF very narrow and much-ruied
yellow Valenciennes. 1t Is cut 10 touch the tip Of
the shoulders and with a high. rolling collar faced
| with white ostrich tips that curl the edge
| This little rihe is very useful for 1t converts a low
necked gown into the demi-oilet. The dainty turn
over collar and cuffs OF lace insertion and en-
| broidered null still in favor here.
| A very Partisan cravat is OF white null with a
| pun under each ear. 1t closes in front with two
| wines which turn back fiat on the cravat. These
| wings are OF yellow velvet edged with very mar
| row black lace The color idea Is very chic and
Thoroughly Partisan. but II could be carried out In
| any other shade that might prove more becoming
! TO the wearer.
There are many pretty novelties In nuns They
are apt to be rather large, but made OF anos' any
| material have seen charming affair made OF
! black ostrich feathers. with three long ostrich
feather ends hanging from It. There are others OF
,s,ve ARRANGED in a large double rufie and trimmed