The morning times., 1896-10-18
Dress Now Ordered for the Salon
and Private Entertainments
as for the Opera-The
Effect in Each Is APP
parentiy Simple.
Copyright, 1896.

ttupsIlSut, loSo'
Paris, Oct. 16.-We Americans are GER
tainly strange. We dress sumptuously
every day, then go to the trouble of hiding
our good gowns under a bushel of cape
and cloak.
Particularly is this SO with the shows
of the winter. Madame from New York
orders something rayishing for the horse
SHOW, and tells monsieur, the dressrnaker,
to make a Very tailurlike coat or cape to
wear over il because we shall visit the
horse show after luncheon on foot" Once
there and she VIII throw Off the little cape
and bc reSplcndent in marvellous winter
creation.
The same with the picture shows, of
which there arc SO many i'll Paris and not
a few in our own cities. is bad form
10 90 elegantly attired externally. But
beautiful form TO slip off ones wrap and
bc gorgeous in bodice and neck.
So lovely are ,ne>c dresses that in Paris
no one ever visits tie Salon on the first
days with even Il faint hope of seeing the
pictures. on "Yarnis hing day which
is an invitation affair, such thought would
be ridiculous.
All the stage fayoriteS are there, the
women who Introduce and make popular
the fashions for Paris. Which means for
all the world, too. Sarah Bernhardt.
Yycttc Guilbert, Rcjanc and Jane HadinS
are all pointed out. Sarah Bernhardts
gowns have been for q long time noted for
their charming originality on these occa-
sions for shc herself is enough of an artist
TO thoroughly appreciate an artistic, effcc-
tive creation, and she designs her own
gowns for tie shows every year. As Il
matter of course tney are always changing
andalways SAVIOR of the East.
She was So surrounded 10y an admiring
circle Of friends at a picture gallery re-
Gently that could only catch a glimpse
of a gray velvet princess gown, with 4
long yoke of sequins and tclt of old
gold links set with emeraldS. The sleeves
Were tight from the wrist To quite dis
tance at,ove the elbow, and then there
was dropping scant puff at the shoulders.
she was covered with emerald ornaments.
Another Persian favoritc Wore Il very
chic gown. with the newest, rather scant,
skirt Of fawn canvas over a light green
silk transparency. The bodice was of
white satin, tight fitting. with a covering
OF old English lace. The sleeves and
vaiIing color note OF green. TWO buckles
Of stars held in place the braces.
There was very narrow belt of mauve
velvet and high crush collar Of the
came, surmomted by frills of chiffon. The
hat worn with this gown was OF white
satin straw, with chouN Of white and
green tuIlc and lunches Of deep purple
yiolets bordered with leaves.
whit CT, nS NyHi
sanderson was very effective. The shr,
was a godet, comparatively scant. made OF
striped white and black satin, with all the
fuilncss at the back. The waist was of
brocade. black and white satin, with short
full basque that showed lining of white
satin. There was long yoke OF the white
satin, covered full with white IN ousseiine dt
snie, and the short puff of white satin ant
mousselinc de sole on the sleeve looked al
though 1t We're a continuation OF the YOKE
over the shoulders were braces OF blacl
satin nbbnn extending TO the bottom OF the
woke and ending there In full rosettes
The BASQUE opened at the front 10 show f
narrow vest of plain white satin, cove rec
with mousseline de sole, and the corner
were turned back and faced with whit,
satin.
There was high, stock collar oil plair
black satin, ribbon, with short how at tbs
back, and the crush girdlc was Of the same
From one side Of the girdle there hung ;
fob of black satin, finished with rosctt'
that had a strass center. The hat was {
tiny affair of white satin, with a facini
of black satin and full rOsettes at tn
back, surmuunted with choux of white tulle
and around the crownwasa strass band.
The great charm about this costume wa
that there was absolutely no color intro
duced in It. and il suited so well Miss san
derson's type of beauty.
Another striking gown was fashioned o
peacock blue silk, with broad stripes form
ed of indescent sequins. The dress was
plain princess, with the stripes beginning
at the neck and folio wing the lines Of tn
figure. getting nearer togeth er at the wais