New-York tribune., 1896-11-01
still Then. In the midst Of the luxurious a,s..- =
a little group OF chophouses class BY therusssv,
me dney are not luxurious; but they are comfortSb,s
conducted. than any OF the others arc ven
GOOD FOR REGULAR GUESTS ONLY

cOnuucte0, tnan any OF the others. "~s
GOOD FOR REGULAR GUESTS ONLY
There is restaurant in this region about v,..A
there is a strange difference of opnion =, 49,
many devotees, who are to be found in It evsr,
day, and sometimes several times day. rbev -. ~.
find fault sometimes but the place seems to h.v.
fascination for them. and they continue TO coma .,
1t year after year. There Is one man who ho...
that he has taken luncheon there every wort,.
day for fourteen years. But let stranger yenturs
into 1t and the proverbial cat In strange 9arr.. -
In the enjoyment Of all the comforts of hom. -
comparison. Nothing ever goes right with a str.r
ger In that house The bill Of fare Is meagre tbou.
1t has everything on 1t that the regular freouen,s
want; the walters are slow, the food is IN cook.a
the desired drinks cannot be had and the prices az
high Persons who have been there only one. ana
nave gone away full Of wrath declare that new cu.
toners are not wanted and that the intention !,
.n INA. newcomer shall never come again. Yet ths
place gets along and does good trade with nson, s
VINO Know what good things are. and they cone
:. One class Of restaurant It is sad to touch u,o,
IL Is me one that pretends TO be luxurious ana q:
not There many Of them that there viii viii ~
no neeI 20 suppose that any particular Is mean,
the place There faded flowers on the taS,ss Cysr
me display OF plated platers Is overpowerins Ths
bin Of fare has prcdsious amount Of French an ~
mere IS an orchestra. The prices may look low an A.
them for The food and enSpSfes %nes serysS SO wsi;
oI the cheapest sort that be called Respectfully
nOrnlng H.
saddest thing about II is that keepers Of the nlaa
have estimated the tastes Of their customers as ~
curately as any Of the others have. The cistomsxc
come here because however much they NAV COW.
plain on the whole. they like this sort OF thin HIM
Tney are persons who prefer the appearance AZ imx
ward. ~ '''er ~
But most horrible Of all Is the restaurant which
has no character at all. Now and then the .H mnss
sklful diner VIII stray into such place Its wa:s
are bare. Its ia bles are in long. tresome rows =,
has all the appearance OF shop. the last look n
tne world that place should have whore one 4 "a
dine In comfort. The linen ia not much soisd r%
neither Is it perfectly clean. The walter is no, na .s
,ualIy diiatory, but he shows no interest whatevs,
N serving or pleasing thesguest. Nobody can a.
.nat any OF the dishes are bad. but nobody eve,
says How good this is Everything that is e.,sn
seems to be turned out OF factory. The wines sra
marked Bordeaux, Burgundy. Hochheimer. ana
they are genuine but every one OF them is just an
average Bordeaux or Burgundy Hochheirrer T.
Is impossible TO hit any thing about ths
place and say that IL Is decidedly bad There is aim,
ply nothing that Is conspicuousy good There is 4
genera! oppression of dulness and dissatisfaction
but nothing that can be made the ground of com
paint or all restaurants this Is the worst In :
restaurant with character. matter how bad 4
person of taste could tell what ought TO be change
but restaurant without character Is hopeless