The morning times., 1896-06-28
Charming Breakfast Frock OF
Mandarin Yellow Dimity.
= Matinee Jackets, Silk
Wraps and Elaborate
Petticoats Worn.

wrinkle and shows flouncing petticoats
at every ement. At the bottom
there were i've narrow kilt -plaitings
surmounted by little quilting OF yellow
footing nesting in one of white.
The fronts OF the surplice bodice, which
ended in long scarf ends, were to cross at
the bust. making a y-shaped neck and
tie at the waist in the back in a f.4t
bow. Tie white and yellow quilting also
edged these completely, but with this ex-
ception there was 10 other trimming
on the bodice itself. On the other hand,
the tbree-quarter bishop sleeves were
nothing but trimming. At the top a close
fitting cap six inches deep was shirred
in the puff between tiny rows or tie
footing quilting. Below this the puff was
crossed in great squares by footing in
sertions, and at the bottom OF this ag.-a
and just below the elbow there were
snug cuffs to match the cap at the top
OF the sleeves.
white taffeta ribbon rosette at each
shoulder seam of the bodice, and al the
outer line of the cuffs, was the final finish.
Many very fetching negiiges may be
found ready made In the shops ut prices
astonishingiy low. Pretty wrappers of
American lawn, trimmed at the collar and
cuffs with lace and belted with ribbon, can
be had as low as 81.
Others of wash silk and white and col
ored pongee sell from 50 up. the more ex-
pensive pOngee affairs ofteD showing drawn
threads and delicate needlework in white
or cOlored silk. At the back of the silk or
pOnsee wrapper or gown there may he
yoke, shirrcd or plain, or a Vatican effect
in double plaits.
The front hangs loose from the shoulders
and is tied at the neck with ribbons and
perhaps giriied at the waist, then there are
soft turn over collars and square turn back
cuffs TO the bishop sleeves, on which the
needework will appear. in drawn threads.
felther-stitcfI herringbone and dots.
The bottom OF the gown may be plainly
hemmcd or else show several wide tucks.
Made In this way the English silk house,
Iiberty's, yearly send over silk, crepe and
pongce gowns that are as beautiful as
| durable.
They make no pretense of following the
prevailing stylps but have 4 picturesque
| ness all their own. All are made with an
eve to becomineness. and many OF the
| more elaborate designs have that ciinging
| sentimai air that ever since the aesthetic
| craze has distinguished English house
| gowns. But it is a vastly becoming air
| il all women would only know it,
A TRIMMED silk peJticoaI iI gay nlors
1
| cottOns is charming and quickly accom-
plished neglige.
l ' French women % so attired even TO the
| luncheon table-the fork breakfast as
| this meal is called. Even il sudden visitors
| should appear there is no embarrassment
! over the g L up: in her elaborate SILK petit
| coat and trinity girded matinee, madame Is
wearing the most becoming clothes in her
| wardrobe, and so sets the fashion for the
| world.
| Many of the silk wrappers and lourgnG
| gowns have wide loose sleeves imitation
/ OF the japanese kimonas. re looped
\ sleeve is made of one long slapelesS length
| OF silk put in without fullness. KimoBa
| fashion: and. OF course the fronts are
folded black a Ia Japonais-
| For yoGrg matrons neat compromise
| for easy lines Will BE- found in the maiinees
| that have jacket fronts
| A fichu vest, with lorg scarf ends. that
hang loose from the figure, may be inside,
hut the back eau be rittedto the waist with
seams or else he girIIied with ribbon
Numbers OF the gowns. wrappers aud
| jackets for the hottest weather have the
necks slightly Gecollete. cut round or else
in the little Marguerite square.
| Among the trimmings fine cambric bead
| ings run with ribbons are extensively used
Several nIatiuces seen. one OF fine white
| null and another of sheerest nainsook, had
| big ornamental collars made in alternate
rows OF Dresden ribbon and footing nf lace
| Other ribbons seen are plain satin ard
figured and striped taffetas, and glitter
ing wash ribbon in white and rale Colors.
Along wi;hthc uegligees ma Y he INC ntioncd
the shirt waists which are being made wi=l
| soft tara back cellars and cuffs. These are
seen in The grass linens and many dainty
diInities. In 1wns and batistes. and may be
plain or lace trimmed. simple or elegant.
| as the buyer chooses. Worn with scarf
ties they are delightfully."- cool and will
be found wise purchases for midsummer.
| NINA FITCH