davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08
MODISH HAIR DRESSING.
The Figure Eight Continues to Be
the Approved Couture.

Women are dressing their hair as
much as ever in the mode of the figure
s, finished with a Psyche knot The
hair about the face is puffed out over
small cOmbS-tO which are sometimes
attached the fluffy ''waddings" which
make a puff look thick and rich. For
women. it, is whispered, are beginning
to augment. their own locks. The
pompadour aureole is worn, provided
it is becoming, and if the shape of the
face forbids it, it is contrived in a
modified form, and soft little rings Of
hair are arranged about the brow and
temples. For most women some kind
of bang" is Indispensable. 1t should
not be forgotten that it softens the
lines so often seen in women past their
girlhood. When cut and curled with
an ARTISTIC sense the outline of the
hair on the brow brings out every
feature of the face to the best advan-
tage. CuriS are much in evidence
curls falling over or beneath fiat
braids and coils at the back of the
head; curls peeping out coquettishly
behind the left ear or dropping low on
one side of the neck; ringlets glossy,
smooth. round like a cylinder and cap
able OF "b0bbing" in enchanting fash
ion with each movement of the oWn-
er's head. Whether for street or even
ing toilette the hair is worn moderate
ly low. In no case does it tower above
the head as formerly ;@far back, on the
crown Of the head, is the center of the
couture. And the tresses must be
waved; waved and crinped all over
the head to give the loose, unstudied,
yet pleasing effect so much sought.
Gloss and smoothness are desirable,
and curling irons are denounced for
constant use, as the heat dries up the
natural oil and renders the hair brit
tie and liable to premature grayness.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08
THE ART OF NEEDLEwoRk.
O1d-Time Rules for Darning and
Mending Now Applied I'm Making
Artistic ErnbrOfderies.

There are comparatively few women
In the present age who laboriouSly
count the threads of the cloth in their
sewing, or sew by rule, as their grand
mothers did, It is true that in some
of the public schools the art of needle
work is taught in the old-fashioned
way. Children are still told to count
their stitches when they gather or
hem. There are many excellent seam
stresses who would be puzzled if asked
the exact rule for hemming or darning.
The cld-fashioned darning stitch for
cloth is not to be COMPOUNDED with the
lattice stitch or the regular stockiner
stitch used in mending stockings. EK-
pert cloth-darning is a most beautiful
and exact piece of work. running
stitch is used. lone thread of the cloth
is taken up and one skipped in the first
row. The, second row, running par
allel to the first, takes up the threads
that have been skipped, and skips
those that, have. been taken up.
These rows are continued hardly
more than a thread apart. They may
be run in either horizontal or vertical
rows, but are always parallel on the
true darnipge stitch Such sewing is
seldom done by the practical seam
stress of today in the precise method
of old. 1t has, however, been revived
by the artistic embroiderers of the As
ISOLATED Artists with the most charm
ing effect.
A loosely woven canvas of soft, dull
surfaced wool is the ground usually
chosen, and silks of various hues are
darned into this canvas. These
'.needle-woven" tapestries, as they are
called, are the most fashionable en-
broidery OF the hour. They are en-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

ployed for sofa cushions. for chair
backs and for the upholstery Of entire
sets of drawing room furniture. The
most delightful effects are given by
their use in French" rooms furnished
i'll delicate tints, in Louis XVI. or
Louis XIV. style. A tapestry designed
for this purpose was Of pale sage
green, ''darned" with garlands of wild
roses and leaves tied by floating rib
bon. The design was wrought ir
shadowy tones of rose pink and green.
The tapestry formed the back of the
chairs and sofa and the work was done
in the exquisite effect of a fine oil
painting.
Entire panels of large design are
shown in this darned work in the land
scapes of old Gobelin tapestries. The
pattern first sketched with a pencil on
the canvas is afterward outlined by
the needle and finally darned in with
the various tints and shades Of silk
that go to make the complete picture
Exquisite little wall panels of Algerian
bootblacks and similar genre figures
are shown in this work
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, Nov. 5.-With the bios
soming of the chrysanthemums be-
gin the seasons gayeties and friends
separated during the summer months
get together, and over their teas tell
dainty little secrets about new gowns
and other paraphernalia belonging to
the society belle Perhaps Mrs. Mort
arty and Mrs. McGinty talk on fall and
winter styles. too, though doubtless
'Mayme's and Jamsey's flannins" oc-
cupy the minds of the more humble CO.
teries, while superb costumes designed
to thrill the behouders claim the at
tention of the others. The past week
has been a busy one for the stores and
the swell modistes.
1 have mentioned in detail all the
new stuffs of this fall and winter,
from the magnificent brocaded satins
to calico and to Eng sh merino, through
all the woolens, and nothing is left ex-
cept to tell how the new goods look
when made up, and to give little at
tention to the minor matters. OF those
let me say right here that the tooth.
pick toed shoe has been doomed to a
retirement Of ten or twelve years, and
round-toed Dongola kids are the prop
er things. These may lace or button,
as the buyer may prefer. The end
of the toe is raised quite high, and
made very stiff and strong, and this
leaves a little more room for the tor
tured toes to spread in.
Another minor matter is that fully
one-half of the women wear the most
sensible of underwear, and among them
one finds the eiderdown flannel divided
skirt, somewhat after the fashion OF
Turkish trousers, only these buckle just
below the knees. They are fitted at the
top to yoke belt, and are altogether
the greatest boon a woman can have
in cold weather at least. Eiderdown
flannel comes in several shades of gray
in white, light brown, blue and pink
and also in red and blue, and red and
black stripes. The contest and prettiest
of loungfng robes can be made of 1t
1t comes in 36-inch width, and costs
from 30 to so cents per yard, and five
to six yards make an ample lounging
robe, with bishop sleeves. Another
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

trimmed at the bottom, and there's a
great variety Of things to choose from.
Ruff1es of varying widths are always
pretty but some trouble and care to
keep clean. There is a new trimming,
made of chenille, in colors to match the
gown or form a harmonious contrast
Chenille makes a rich garniture and is
quite as suitable for dresses as for hats,
where up to now the most has been
seen. One very rich armure silk gown
in silver gray had a narrow design in
braided chenille in emerald green, gold
and black all around the bottom of the
skirt The waist was made Of accor-
dion plated black silk muslin, with rich
ornamentation around the waist and
collar Of the chenille garniture, though
more gold and green showed in that
than black. The collar was solid
mass of chenille embroidery and was
edged with black silk muslin ruffie
There were small chenille and gold or
namentS on the wrists.
Gold and silver embroidery and braid
ing are used very largely on all hand
some gowns. One in particular pleased
me. The dress was of a soft old rose
colored satin duchesse. Theree were
three bias folds around the bottom
each an inch and a half wide. The
waist was draped across the bust under
a bolero Of reseda velvet. This was 50
covered with gold braid that there was
scarcely glimpse of velvet to be seen
There was a narrow knife plating Of
the old rose silk all around it and the
fronts, which were loose at the bottom,
were lined with it. There was sim
liar trimming at the wrists The gold
braid and chenille, with the mingled
metal threads, make very rich effects.
Gold over mauve velvet is especially
beautiful, and chenille over silk looks
like carving. Mate Leroy.
A MOdish Combination.
Gold and white are modish combination.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

ten generation ago, eff young girls, from
early life develop the muscles in sweeping,
busting, ironing, rubbing furniture and ali
the multiplied domestic processes which our
grandmothers knew of?' And then adds:
Il will venture to say that our grandmothers
IN week went over every movement that a
gymnast has invented, and went over them
70 some productive purpose, too Here is a
hint that women with thin arms would do
we'll to take 1t is said to be really a fact
that Clara Louise Kellogg, the singer, when
young girl, was much annoyed by the at
tenuated appearance Of her arms when she
began to don evening dress at her crowded
concerts. Some one recommended brisk use
OF the broom, which advice she followed
and soon had round, plump member as the
reward of her labor. If thin, listless girl,
with dull eye and stare, can by any means
be persuaded to try the broom cure" she
aIu lie
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

the other to hold the work together
1t saves many vexatious little incidents
when one is in a hurry
The original hat was of golden-brown
velvet, with felt braid to match. The
ground of the ribbon was royal blue
and the pattern in golden brown. I'm
derneath the back were two large
roses, shading from bright orange to
golden brown. 1t was made to go with
costume Of golden brown that was
trimmed with blue and white plaid
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08
weI1-Rounded Arms.
HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM

The value of homework in developing a
woman's arms and adding that roundness
and beauty to them which Is so much ad-
mired cannot be overestmated. Those who
have studied and tested the matter declare
that 1t Is the very healthiest form of exer-
else. and for the average woman to be far
preferable to the work of the masseurs. who,
even more than thirty years ago, seem to
have found plenty of patients. would 1t
not be quite as cheerful and less expensive a
process" asked Mrs. Stowe. In q book writ
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

= a
Theys Are MS Dainty as Can Well BE
Imagined by Anyone.

Some Of the newest bed rooms are
treated ,in larkspur blue. 1t is a DELI
cate tint Of ipure. clear blue that har-
monies we'll with Delft porcelains.
One of the new denims, which comes in
this tone, is often chosen for the
hangings, also for upholstering the
window seats. In a room recently fur
nished in this color the brass bedstead
is canopied and hung with white linen
decorated with blue embroidery. The
toilet articles are of Canton ware. and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

knots all over 1t make it, after all,
handsome. The canvas Stuffs are all
made over silk of a contrasting color.
The rich emerald green and violet blue
combination is as we'll liked as ever
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

light over the festive scene. Beautiful tea
and dinner gowns are made in white and gold
and II the hostess has golden hair and
pure White complexion she will look like q
fairy princess at a magic banquet.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

lovely table for white and gold tea or a
white and gold dinner, using geld-celored
.chrysanthemums and gold-colored ribbons for
decorations. The ices may be yellow, the
cake icings and trimmings may be of the
same color, and tall banquet lamps, with
yellow shaded, viii throw soft, golden
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08
The omnipresent buster.

Both in the dining room and drawing room
a duster should be kept hidden away IN some
tiny retreat. This will be wanted for SO
many things, as dust flies about in a pro-
voking manner, and always seems to settle
where it is most seen. In arranging the
flowers there is often some water spilled
which ought to be wiped up at once; be-
sides, there may be various delicate pieces
Of china which the housewife should keep
busted herself. The piano keys must come
under her care. too, for servants necessarily
do not always know how to clean them.
This is done by wiping them with milk, but
great care must be taken not to use too
damp cloth. and to polish them at once
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

(The black velvet coat of three-quarter
length. having short round shoulder cape,
outlined with SOFT dark fur, has at the waist
a deep ceinture of shimmerng gold tissue,
yelled by a covering of point d'esprit en-
broidered thickly with jet and with bows of
satin ribbon marking its termination. The
loose fronts are outlined with fur, and from
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

the yoke of glittering jet falls thick fringe
of jet beads connected by links of fine gold
chain. The accompanying hat is of black
velvet with chenille cords drawn around
the high crown and up to where a group of
ostrich feathers adorns the left side. Two
velvet rosettes with diamond centers rest
against the hair.l
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

and is presented in poplin, silk and al.
WOODS.
Tweed has suddenly taken new;
place as q favorite tailor dress ma
terial. and il is nearly as heavy as that
offered for mems wear, but is often
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

accessories of dress and brown coat and
skirt costume is made very attractive by a
red silk vest.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

The latest vagary Of fashion is the addition
of padding around the hips Of dress skirts
and the promise of bustles in the near fut-
ure. A little hustle at the back is generally
an improvement, but let us hope that the
large one of some years ago may never re-
turn.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

Blouse waists of hannelette and silk are
still very much worn, but the color of the
skirt must be repeated in the bodice if you
would be up to date.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08
A Modish Combination.

Gold and white are modish combination.
White and gold china enables one to set a
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

The tendency in dress just now is to fit
the waists very snug and close, if they
were moulded to the figure. The Greek
sculptor's idea Of a short waist and long
limbs seems to be reversed in the methods
of the modern tailor.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

The early cool days of autumn bring out
many unique shapes in short capes and
collarettes, both with and without stole ends,
fur boas and neckties in various combina-
tons Of lace and velvet. One novelty is
cape of sable cut in deep round scallops on
the bottom and around the high collar and
edged around with cream lace, falling not
more than an inch below.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

White brocaded ribbon traced with floral
paillettes is used for belts and waist trim
mings.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

ALPACA petticoats with ruff1es of the same
bound with satin of a contrasting color, are
very pretty and much more durable than silk
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

Loops of broad black velvet or satin rib
bons are used for epaulet decorations on
evening and dinner gowns.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

Boleros of finely tucked silk in any color
you choose are one of the features of Dress
and black velvet boleros, covered with an
applique of white satin leaves outlined with
cord and steel, are made to wear with differ
ent bodices.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

The sable boa is to be as fashionable as
ever this winter, and fourteen tails is the re-
quired number for the latest model, which
also has the head at one end.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

Jeweled buttons and enamelIed buttons, so
carefully done that they resemble Floren-
tine mosaics, are used on both afternoon and
evening dresses. Added to these are some
novelties in celluloid. initiating old gold and
silver in rocco designs.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-08

A pretty front for red cloth bodice is
made Of ecru lace insertion, held together by
black velvet ribbon.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
JIM WANTS TO WHIP FITZ.

San Francisco, Dec. 10.-Harry Cor
bett is in receipt of long telegram
from Jim Corbett authorizing him to
make every effort to get a match
with FitZsimmons before the Olympic
club for from five to twenty rounds
and for side bet Of from $1,000 to
$4,000, and for any purse offered.
The size of the purse can be $4,000
or $4,000 In order to show his read
mess to fight, Corbett will not insist
on a side bet. I regard to the selec-
ton of referee Corbett is willing to
leave the appointment to w. Greer
Harrison and Maj. Mclaughlin.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
ARMY NEWS.

The death of Lieutenant Barnhart,
United States army, is reported from
North Carolina.
Private Woodruff has been relieved
from extra duty as painter and trans
ferred to the hospital corps.
Colonel Biddel, of the Ninth United
States cavalry, retires from active
service tomorrow on account of limita-
ton Of age.
1t is thought in army circles that
a new site for post near st. Louis
will be asked forth present one be-
ing unhealthy.
The auartermaster has had the tow
er clock repaired to the great conven-
fence Of the garrison and those living
within viusla range of the dial.
The retirement of Colonel Biddel,
promotes Lieutenant Colonel Perry;
Major Baldwin of the Seventh, First
Lieutenant Parker, of the Ninth and
Second Lieutenant Wood of the Tenth
cavalry.
Sergeant Drew, of the Eighteenth
infantry, company G, who recently
failed to pass the examination for APP
pointment TO a commission will take
his discharge from the service as soon
as granted by the authorities.
Lieutenant Colonel Rudlett Of the
Ninth cavalry, retired from active
service Tuesday last. This retire
ment promotes Major Hamilton of the
First. Captain Godfrey of the Sew
enth. and Lieutenant Brewer of the
same regiment.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
A MAN MISSING.
Mysterious Disappearance Of a Bee
County Citizen.

Mysterious Disappearance of a Bee
County Citizen.
Beeville, Tex, Dec. 9.-News comes
from the Mineral City neighborhood,
Is miles northwest of Beeville, that a
man is missing. Mr. w. N. Irwin,
who has lived on Mr. Crafts place,
miles west of Mineral City, this year,
went to that little village on the 26th,
was seen there during the day and
until late in the afternoon, since
which time no trace can be found of
him or the horse he was riding. He
was about As years of age and mar
ried. He was originally from Missis-
sippi, but has resided in this and Live
Oak county about three years.
Livestock shipments were quite
heavy from this point last Saturday.
Merchant & Clare shipped one train
of cattle, Mr.. Cothings a train, John
David five cars. and III. B. Sinner five
cars. over the San Antonio and Aran-
sas Pass. On the same day McCay
Bros. shipped four cars Of horses to
Meridian, Miss, and Malloy one car
to Wharton, over the w. L. & p. F..
o. Skidmore shipped from Skidmore
station last Friday II cars of cattle.
Monday Gathings shipped two more
cars of cattle and DR.. McCormic two
cars to New Orleans Merchant &
Clare have about 1000 more Of the
Geo. West cattle to ship. Lucas &
New will ship train load from Ber-
clair today. Marketable cattle are
getting very scarce.
Among the prominet cattlemen in
Beeville are w. NJ. Fleming, Of Vic
toria: John King, of New Mexico;
Mr.. Ed. East and Capt Allen, Of Vic
toria: Henry Sinner. of San Antonio,
and ]. II. Cage, of Hico.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
Highest of all in Leavening Power-Latest .!4ovt Report
R3H!as!l! R Rsxas&z
ABSOLUTELY PURE
ABSOLUTELY PURE

ton from the freight bureau OF
that city.
Ex-Presideut Harrison is not
among the list of senatorial posi-
bilities. He says so.
Hanna leases a suit of rooms In
Washington for Republican head
quarters.
Cuban Junts establishes branch
es in all the states.
Cubaus in New York think the
report OF Maceo'r dsath fake.
Consul General Lee has not sailed
for Cuba.
Spanish students in Madrid ju-
bilate over the death OF Msceo, as
reported there.
Editor Mcclure, of Philadelphia,
celebrates his tiftieth year in jour.
nslism.
Life saving crew report no loss
of life aboard the steamer of Fire
Island.
Shsrkey's partner, Lynch, denies
the abatement Of bis trainer, says
it is a tissue of lies.
Iron Mountain train held up
within the st. Louis city limits by
six masked meu, but the burglar
proof locks on the through express
matter shut them out.
Five persons drowned in storm
of Frontera, Mexico.
Father Yorke, Catholic priest In
California, charged with criminal
libel.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
CRIMINAL CASE SETTINGS.

The following is the setting of GRIM
inal cases in the Thirty-seventh dis
trict court for the November term
which ends December %:
Monday, December IA:
1878. State of Texas VS.. Robert
Dawson.
1882. Same VS.. Francisco Sanchez.
1929. Same VS.. Edward Wilson.
1870. Same VS.. same.
1919. Same VS.. George Dunn.
1921. Same VS.. same.
1922. Same VS.. same.
1923. Same VS.. same.
1927. Same vs.. same.
Tuesday, December Is:
1917. State of Texas VS.. J. M.Farmer
1924. Same VS.. same.
1925. Same VS.. same.
1926. Same VS.. same.
1928. Same VS.. same.
1918. Same VS.. Sam Stevens.
1920. Same VS.. same.
1909. Same vs. l.. Murray.
1905. Same VS.. same.
1895. Same VS.. same.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-12-10
LEAP YEAR BALL.

Georgetown Young Ladies Do the
Gallant Act.
Georgetown, Tex, Dec. 1O.-lSpe-
eiaD-The society people of George
town gave a Leap Year ball last
night at the X. Of p. hall. The anair
was well managed and gotten up in
metropolitan style. The young ladies
called for their gentlemen friends in
carriages and escorted them home
the same way Dainty refreshments
were served at inervals and the even
ing was spent in dancing and enjoy
ing the splendid concert given by the
Georgetown Philharmonic society.
The occasion was voted the social
event Of the season.