The San Francisco call., 1896-07-19


frocks which can be reproduced IN musline,
batiste. organdie or lawn with delightful
results. The first has the skirt and bodice
of creamy white bengaline, the sleeves
and fchu being of mousseline de sole OF
the same tint The fchu, sleeves and
neck are finished with mousseline deli
catelv embroidered. The hat is of satin
butter-coIored straw, the crown and inner
brim. being composed of coarse guipure
lace. Wild roses with their leaves arise at
the back. The large butterfly wings are
made of white feather ana killed net.
The cream mousseline parasol is beautitied
with guipure lace.
| can highly commend the gown of
grass lawn embroidered in design of
yellow roses and green leaves. The entire
lining is of soft and heavy yellow silk.
About the bodice Is introduced welcome
touch of satin green EN- mbroidered in yell
low roses. The front is of yellow net
studded with gold sequins.
The toilet of white Chine mohair is
blurred all over with wild pink roses.
The bodice is zouave one of white bro
cade, en- broidered richly with gold fow-
ers. The soft vest is of pink, yelled with
gold-dotted mousseline and completed at
the waist with golden ribbon band. The
sleeves have caps of appIe-green silk and
are connected with the fowered sleeve
by gold embroidery. Mousseline frills
are inserted at the elbow and lace ruffles
fall over the hand The same lace, in a
wider width, is arranged around the
shoulders. Several quite unique gowns
are being worn by Miss Johnstone, Miss
Leechman and Miss Sutherland in 'The
Little Genius" now running in London at
the Avenue Theater. Miss Johnstone in
the first act is especially noticeable in a
'Frabard" jacket of white satin antique.
adorned with an applique of cream
guipure. The skirt is of chameleon silk
and has two panels of white satin coy-
cred with guipure, and knots of heliotrope
velvet. The so-called jacket is queer
little garment, as it is not shaped at
all to the figure and consists OF two
pieces of satin, cut so as to pin
on the shoulders, and from the shoulders
it hangs down straight, small flap and
button only holding the sides together,
ano this flap comes about two inches
above the waistline. Any one can cut
such a jacket, as nothing could be more
simple; but TO be success it must be of
the very richest fabric and It should be
trimmed with costly lace or the most ex-
quisite embroidery. Besides, only
slender, stylish woman should venture to
wear anything so conspicuous.
| do not in the least care for Miss
Leechman's frock, which has been espe-
cially admired, for the reason that can see
nothing novel or beautiful in its concep-
ton, as the plaid silk sleeves have the
same old-fashioned lace epaulettes. The
bodice has a box -pleat of a shot blue and
white silk. The skirt is well cut and of
the same silk as the box-pleat. At the
neck is a frill and ribbons, dark blue in
color Bows are dotted about the waist,
giving it a homemade air-far from cred
liable to the well-known house which de-
signed it. The gloves almost reach the
elbow. the sleeves being tight-htting until
met by small shoulder-puff.
Gorgeous and venturesome is the even
ing gown in which Birdie Sutherland
makes her first appearance in this play.
1t has skirt of pale blue satin emil mbroid-
cred in red and silver. Shaded velvet
rises applique, the calyx being formed of
steel passementerie. Deep blue velvet
panels are inserted, aud these are simply
covered with EN- broidery in steel and silver.
just below the waist. The white chiffon
bodice is covered with delicate silver en-
broidery. Four chains of pearls form the
sleeves, to the upper one of which is
attached full frill of lace on the left
shoulder, and on the right the frill is less
than half the size, being attached to the
second row and headed with knots of blue
ribbon velvet. The upper part of the
Il
the creamy lace. The bodice has deep
corselet of the velvet EN- broidered in silver
and edged both top and bottom with large
pearls.
The creamy white suede gloves wrinkle
very slightly on the arm, and only extend
about four inches above the elbow. can
imagine that this will be an effective dress
for the stage, and one that may furnish
few ideas for some of our evening frocks
but oh, what dreams and how exquisite
must be the gowns owned by French
Duchess. All were designed by the great
est artists in Paris.
Zone daffodil-yeIlow damask petticoat
and train is adorned with painted and en-
broldered irises in their natural colors,
while colossal iris serves as coiffure, its
velvety petals being incrusted with dia-
mopds. a long trained gown of willow
green satin is covered with Malmaison
roses, veiled by foods of golden tulle,
moired with silver, rubies and diamonds,
forming regal complement to this poeti-
cal toilet. Yet another is of swan-like
whiteness, the material a rich brocade
scattered all over with tufts of white mara
bouts and showers of pearls. The diadem
worn with this will be of turquoises and
diamonds, making stomacher made of
, the same stones.''
Now that it is correct to have a delicate
perfume linger abont ones belongings
and when, may / ask, has this not
been correct?-I cannot suggest anything
more delightful Than orris root, which is so