The San Francisco call., 1896-10-04
Princess
Walking
Costume
QQQQQaQQQQQ0QQQQQQQQQQQl


The second costume is of coarse canvas
in light shade of gendarme blue, with
frilled vest and strappings of black satin,
finished with paste buckles. The sleeves
of this gown are of particularly original
design, while the neck has alternately
ruffles of black satin and cream-colored
embroidered Iisse.
Almost equally interesting are the mod
els for blouse suitable either for afternoon
or theater wear. One boasts a particu-
larly original development of the rucned
chiffon sleeve, with insertions of gold
detailed embroidery and a triple frill in
place of the usual shoulder puff. A fchu-
like drapery is drawn up from the side
seams to the left shoulder and there
caught with paste buckle.
Black and white striped silk forms the
material for the second design, of which
the V-shaped neck is bordered by three
rows of embroidered lisse, the same lisse
forming full double frill at the elbow.
No. 8 is noticeable for a aZouave-like yoke
of sequin-embroidered grass lawn, the
same embroidery appearing on the chiffon
sleeves. Brocads forms the lower part of
the bodice and the smart shoulder knots.
Some lovely and very smart cloth gowns
viii soon be sent home by an excellent
tailor. One, consisting of coat and skirt,
is com posed of the finest purple beaver
cloth, the collar being faced and the cuffs
trimmed with rich dahlia-colored velvet.
Such q Animation is indeed daring but
really most effective. a chic row of tiny
black cords and barrels finishes the loose
fitting fronts and the sleeves as well.
Mink borders the epaulettes and collar,
and also extends down the fronts. The
lining is shot-dahlia taffeta. A great
black velvet picture hat with seven beau
tiful ostrich pIumes completes q fetching
toilette-and make mental note of the
fact that all such chapeaux must have at
least seven plumes Of the choicest descrip-
ton. More may be worn, if you are tall
enough, but not less, even if you are only
five feet in height, for this is one of
fashion S imperative mandates.
There is revival in the fancy for serge
in London, Paris and New York, so we
may shortly expect to see very stylish
bride arrayed in one of the most exquis-
itely fine navy blue serges ever made with
reveres faced with white moire, edged by
q fine hair-Ike cord of mixed dark blue
and silver. The coat is lined with the
white moire, but the skirt has a sensible
lining of blue taffeta. Such a costume
would be excellent for a matron if black
moire were used instead of the white.
Smart is also costume. just completed,
of black cloth, which has very narrow
white stripe and fxings of white velvet.
The short, neat, little basque buttons up
(slantingIy) the left side with eighteen
small tailor.buttons. A medium sized
black velvet hat with a touch of white
velvet and nodding plumes is in keeping.
A lovely dark-eyed schoolgirl who will
make her debut ere long is a fetching
picture in a costume of brown heather
mixture tweed. The coat has semi-loose
back held by one of the stylish belts of
crimson leather. The front is loose, and
when open reveals a vest of dark crimson
cloth embroidered in a darker brown and
crimson, and thread of gold. Just tint
of red runs through the tweed. The braid
ing is wonderfully effective and a crimson
glace taffeta lines it. A brown felt hat is
trimmed with wide bows of brown taffeta.
A knot OF crimson velvet rests next the
ausky hair.
Very recently an unusually handsome
woman wore pale green silk covered
with striped rather light blue canvas, the
bodice being Of blue and green brocade
adorned with gold gallon as girdle, soft
grayish chiffon with ruched ends was
worn very gracefully. 1t was about three
yards and three-quarters in length.
A young woman on the same occasion
appeared in stylish gown of pretty COL
ored face cloth. The loose jacket lined with
kr1r1 I've %affa hoJ
beautiful buttons of turquoise blue set
in silver down the front. Worn under the
swell coat was blouse of turquoise blue
taffeta with yoke of fine silver embroid-
cry. This also formed cuffs, and the slen-
der, graceful figure might have passed for
Paris fashion plate, for the hat of pretty
colored straw was braided with turquoise
lined chinelle. AT the left side was a
large aigrette of white and gray, the crown
being encircled with loose twist of blue
and gray velvet. The gray gloves had
blue stitch, the gray parasol had great
ruche of blue and gray and a lining OF
blue. Every detail was complete and
beautifully carried out and naturally the
skirts lining matched that of the jacket.
Very recently the Princess de Sagan
gave an elaborate and beautiful dinner
party in Paris, and naturally some of the
gowns worn were very pretty. In almost
every case the materials used were light
and the bodices were almost without ex-
ceptioD richly trimmed with lace. None
of the sleeves were large. The materials
were principally gauze, tulle or muslin,
and there were some lace skirts over silk.
A charming dress was of soft silk, the
color of rose petal; on each seam was
ruche of pinked-out tarlatane, the same
carried round the foot OF the skirt and on
the corselet forming bretelles; elbow
sleeves of tarlatane over silk, fulled at the
seams and drawn in with band of pink
MORE. A dress of white tarlatane over
white silk was striped with Valenciennes
lace; the bodice trimmed V-shape with
lace; waistbelt and bows of soft cerise silk
draped round the waist.
Americans will be interested in learning
that at Deauville the Princess de Sagau has
been dethroned, socially and the young
Count and Countess CasteIlane (nee Gouid)
reign in her stead. Their yellow liveries
and attelage la Danmont attract univer-
sal attention. The Countess is said to act
4, a xy;r,pino aud orocafuI roonoar The