The San Francisco call., 1896-04-05

toilette can be considered complete with
out one of the delightful short mantles
which are enjoying such great popularity.
one | greatly admired is of black velvet
with cores of white satin, with an ap-
plque of white lace flowers traced with Jet
and steel. A white satin lining peeps be-
meath the hem of this, elaborately frilled
with white silk-edged chiffon. Another
little mantle has yoke and vest cut in
one, and tight-titting, OF green miroir
velvet, and beneath ruche Of black sa tin
riopon IS gathered cape OF glace silk COW
cred with black lace, embroidered in many
colors with tam bour stitch, interspersed
with flowers formed of narrow ribbons
This mantle is of an especially good shape
pointing as it does over the elbows.
A novel material is used in the compost
tlon of one of the latest spring cloaks,
which extends to the hem of the dress.
The material is named "chine brocatelle,' -
and is in mary colors on a black ground.
The yoke lis of mulbe rry-hue velvet over
which there is chine fowery design
traced with jet and colored beads. A vel
vet collar turns down at the neck and dis
plays facing of guipure em broidery.
A chic coat of glace silk, shot with green,
dark red and dull gold, is accordion
pleated, with epaulettes of gold thread
traced with jet and outlined with silk
edged killed frill of black chiffon.
Slender women who are fond of close
fitting gowns will do we'll to consider one
of brown face cloth, which has bodice of
brown velvet relieved by an open waist
coat composed of white cloth embroidered
in shades of violet. A hat of a darker
shade of brown in a fancy straw should be
trimmed with scarfs of creamy white and
light brown tulle Flags in two shades
OF violet give the necessary color.
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cloth in any of the new shades will make
a stylish gown with a sacquelike coat with
simple black satin bands and tabs. A
smart tailor gown is of a fine green Melton,
which is run with tiny under thread of
white. 1t has triple collar, and turned
back cuffs are OF white cloth, covered with
an applique design in green silks.
For young girl very simple and styl-
lsh gown is OF fine, soft, gray cloth. tailor
made, over a changeable silk, with waist
coat OF drab cloth embroidered in small
blue or red figures. This costume will be
useful on SO many occasions that it pays to
have it made by the best tailor in the city
of the finest goods. Dark blue or brown
cloth would be also stylish, but neither of
these colors is SO youthful or becoming as
gray, provided the maiden has clear skin
and good color; besides, dark shades look
very untidy if in the least dusty.
Now we all feel a keen interest once
more In evening toilettes, so | am sure we
will like to hear how one of light lavender
satin was made. The back breadth was
kllt-pleated, and over its entire length fell
kllt-pleated tulle, scarfs of the same drap-
ing 1T from the back to the side breadth.
The low bodice of lavender satin had
deep ruche of chiffon, embroidered in tiny
beads in design of wistaria. The sleeves
were were OF the satin covered with the kllted
tuiIe, and consisted of long puff which
started from the shoulders and covered
the point of the elbow. They were fin
lshed with a twist of pearl white satin
ribbon, over which was wistaria vine.
This ended in small bow. A large and
remarkably pretty bow Of this with long
wide ends adornad the back Of the waist and
fell to within two or three inches of the
bottom of the skirt.
Felix has just completed very salts
factory frock. The skirt is of pink MORE
fauconnee, striped with blue. The blouse
waist is low and has a full round basque
founce in pink silk muslin. The sleeves
are double bouillonne. The pink muslin
is seen through the opening of the corselet,
which has deep pointed fronts fastened
with graduated bows in blue satin. Bows
also appear on each shoulder One of
Worth's latest would suit bride very
nicely, although there is nothing espe-
clally new in the style. The skirt is as
usual godeted; it is OF white tulle over a
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with two sets of fire rows of satin ribbon.
The tablier drapery is looped up on either
side lth a tuft and trail of roses. The
same flowers adorn the low-pointed bodice
and rest on the left reveres in the soft
folds OF the tulle, which is also used for
baretta and for the short sleeves, "a mass
OF diaphanous futings." On the should
ers are loops of the satin ribbon.
Speaking of simple summer dresses for
young girls, have seen as good results
produced by having for mulls, organdies,
ETC., well-ftted silk foundation. The
waist must be most carefully fitted and
lined, and the skirt should have several
ruffies OF silk and laces. one of which
should be wired, as though each dress was
made over its own lining, which would oe
very expensive. There is no reason why
ones maid should not tack the thin
dresses to the silk slips in such way that
they would set perfectly. 1t is we'll to
have several silk shirts and waists of be-
coming shades, if you expect to spend
your summer, or even a few weeks, at any
fashionable resort, as you will want to be
cool and comfortable, as well as correctly
clad.
A creation for a matron is composed of a
soft gray miroir satin, with black velvet
1or trimmings, over which are bands of
Honiton insertion. These bands begin on
the shoulders and are carried down the
fronts, and finish with bow, which is
placed slightly below tie waist line. The
skirt is full and absolutely plain, and with
a shot violet silk.
For young girl in light mourning lisa
costume OF black and white striped glace
SILK, the skirt, as usual, plain. full. and
we'll hung. The low cut bodice has a
garniture of deep black lace bertha,
heavily sequined in pearls and silver
This is caught up in the front and falls
artlstlcally over the short puff sleeves.