Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1896-1899, 1896-01-03

ward winter they will become mor
marked and distinct. Tho now loos'
waists have the bishop sleeves droopinc
from the shoulder and having cuffs deoT
or narrow as one may prefer.
Some Of the new separate waists cost 81
and $50, and yet they appear extremely
simple One was made OF fine white mo-
hair and embroidered by hand in Bulga
rian stitch In dull blue and red washable
oolors Ono Wide band was worked around
the middle of the sleeves. The cuffs were
covered with it, and so was the collar.
Two narrow rows were worked down each
side of the front. Across the upper part
OF the bust were cords and silver buttons
mention this In detail because this
Bulgarian embroidery Is going TO be seen
on everything where It Is possible to put
Il, oven on black wooden goods where the
surface Is smooth. To mako It ono must
get some loose moshed canvas and basto 1t
TO the goods or garment and work the
stitches through both. When 1t is all done,
the uanvas threads are TO be pulled out
and this leaves the pattern directly ON the
goods or tho made up garment. This Is
work that cannot be done by machine,
and therefore 1t will never be common or
cheap.
There are new silks In some Of these now
pattern waists copied after old, old time
goods, mostly patterns OF printed delaines.
Tho minRling OF oolors IL very artistic, but
tho patterns themselves are superlatively
ugly. There was one pattern waist plaited
from the shoulder and punched up at the
bottom In a slight blouse effect. There
were draped belt and stock collar of the
material, with a soft bow at the back of
the neck. Down the front and on the
shoulders were straps OF black velvet rib
bon, held by silver frosted buttons. This
IL calculated for the young ladies, though
the same form has been exactly followed In
dark prune and heliotrope peau dc sole and
satin duchess for moro elderly persons.
It is certain that tho "waist" has an
other winter before II. saw a delicate
shrimp pink and moss green striped taife
70 waist In blouse fashion, with six stripes
OF moss green taffeta each edged with mar
row butter colOred lace These were
brought down the front. There was q
squAre collar Of the moss green silk, edged
with lace. Frosted silver buttons fastened
the front. The belt was made like the
stripes. Tho sleeves had cuffs Of the green,
with square pointed ohatelaine cuffs fall
ing over the hand. These, also, We're edged
with plat val In butter color.
There was among these new gowns a suit
Of brilliant lilac rough cropon. The skirt
was plain. The waist and sleeves were OF
green surah, just the color Of lilac leaves
Over the shoulders was an immense peler-
inc Of yellow point do venise. Down the
front OF the waist there was double jabot
OF lilac silk null, and there was fancy
sash bow OF green. Tho sleeves were quito
large glgots. Tho importer told me that
Sho expected to SEQ sleeves made quite
smooth on the upper part OF the arm before
winter set In, but that the large sleeves
were too cool and comfortable TO give up
while hot weather lasted. She also thinks
that there viii DO considerable OF the deep
orinkle crcpon worn tho coming season,
though it win not take rank as high
novelty. There arc somo new ideas In
these crepons now being wrought out and
one will be those with loops OF wool thrown
up on the surface Of the upper crinklo.
That will bring II In the limit OF the new
frise fashions, which viii he seen ON al
most eyeryNhlng I'm wool and mixtures.
There was a costume complete for gar
den party, which / will describe, partly for
its own beauty and partly because tho gen.
sral style will be reproduced Immediately
for many handsome fall dresses. one Is
70 be made 20 order in ashes OF roses ar
nure, with black lace trimmings. This Is
Of a delicate salmca pink taffet1 with
cream shades, The skirt Is full all around,
though cut with fine CORES. The CORES are
not very sharp. and that leaves ample