Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-05-23

in their busy mills, that are seen in every
direction. But the one drawback to Zaan
Dam Is the fact that everybody goes, and
consequently the boats are always crowded
with sightseeing tourists. whose English
clatter is not in harmony with the pictur-
esque Holland landscape
Taking our wheels and with second-class
tickets. we boarded the little steamer for
Laan Dam, and had the satisfaction of be-
ing quite at the other end Of the boat from
the crowd.
The shores are fiat as a vast plain, and
in many places We passed the land is from
six to twenty feet below the level of the
water. 1t was no uncommon sight for us
to catch peep into the second-story win
dows of the little houses the shore, or to
see only the roofs and chimneys peeping
over the dyke. The fields were green, and
over them roamed large herds of fine cattle,
that seemed to be grazing at will over the
miles of fiat green pasture below the hill
formed by the thrifty Hollander to protect
the dyke on the inner side-a green slope,
up which some of the more curious bovines
found their way, to gaze at our boat. in
mild-eyed wonder. and with due Holland
gravity and decorum
W!ndmllS We're now seen on every side
their long arms turning over and over, like
a crowd OF athletic giants making endless
handsprings. At first the novel sight de-
lighted us. but, alas for the weakness of
human nature. we soon wearied of their
ceaseless round. and would have given
much to have had them stop a moment and
give our tired eyes a rest.
Zaan Dam proved to be only a dull little
tourist town whore two small hotels thrive
by asking fabulous prices We rejoiced we
had our wheels with us. and in consequence
were quite independent of the old hack
man and his shabby cab, who had the i'm
pudence to ask US 81 to drive us out beyond
the town. along the banks of the canal
where there are some old cottages and
other sights shown to all tourists.
We made the run of eight miles very COM
fortably, and had our wheels safely on
board the boat for the return trip before
the old man, who had secured load of tour
lists, had much more than made start.
Independence of the CycIer.
The advantages of a wheel are many,
and even those who do not feel equal to
pedalng the entire distance will still find
1t reliable adjunct
Short rides in and around the cities WIS.,
tied will not only be much more enjoyable
II made by cycle, but the saving in the ex-
orbitant hack fares demanded of foreign
ers will be found to cover the entire out
lay for the transportation Of the wheel
when not in use. We tarried no longer
than the next morning at Amsterdam, set
ting forth without any plans made as to
where we would stop, but free to suit our
fancy. and on the lookout for some lttl,
Dutch town not crowded and tourist rid
den.
the queerest and quaintest of little villages.
named HilVerZum In southern Holland
the country is high and hilly. totally I'M
like the reclaimed fiat lands of the coast
and the soil being a loose red sandy clay,
we found cycling no easy matter. Our
road from the little railroad station at
Holandziln Rading became a succession
of uphill and down dales, that wearied us
irnn hA
would have done If on a good road but in
the end we were more than repaid for our
labor in reaching the town. for it proved
to be unique and a discovery of our own
Night had already fallen when We dis
mounted from our wheels tired and hun
cry, at the door of a small reStauranter
when. after much laughter and pantomne
we secured something to eat.
Not a soul met in Hilverzum understood
one word Of English and few of those we
encountered could make anything intelH-
gible of johns German, although many Of
the Dutch speak that language as we'll as
their own. They would smile and say
va, va. and look as wise as owls. and
then, with a shake of the head, pass on,
giving up the riddle. But our host under
stood US to desire lodging, and pointed out
small house up the road, after having
brought out his heavy old bicycle for our
inspection, with greatest pride and salts
faction, as much as to say. You foreign
ers are not the only people who rider
we found accommodation in thu small
house to which he had directed us with
out trouble. for he had dispatched small
urchn there before US. to tell what we
wanted.
The Dutch landlady escorted me through
room filled with men eating and drinking.
whose merriment was respectfully silenced
as we passed through, but whose tongues
were at once let loose as soon as we were
safely out of sight
My hostess. large stout woman of mid
die age. swung herself up the steep and
a Stai
dexterity acquired by years Of practice
and with some misgivings l grasped the
brass hand rail and essayed to follow her
The steps were only few inches broad
affording no foothold. except for the tins
Of the toes, and looked as If they must
lead up on deck" they were so like a
steamers stairway.
Surprises of n Dutch Bed Room.
Breathlessly accomplishing the feat of
swinging myself up 1 followed her through