The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-12-06

sleeves, ermine vest, and orange velvet belt and
collar, forms one OF the striking combinations
of the season. Liberty velvet In the pretty light
shades is an inexpensive and effective material
for these jackets, and it Is used on gowns of the
fine old. fashioned cashmere. revived again for
house dresses in the pretty shades of gray.
The iucougruous combination Of q chiffon
bodice with cloth 81 irts and sleeves is a special
feature Of the latest gowns, and one very
charming bodice with n gray cloth skirt and
sleeves is Of white chiffon covered with Irish
lace and made over pale blue silk. 1t opens at
one side, where it 10 cut in scallops, and fastens
across a frill OF creamy lace with turquoise but
tons. The narrow belt is of gold and turquoise,
and the collar OF blue velvet with n lace frill at
the back. while the sleeves of cloth are entirely
plain, minus even the little puff at the top. The
bodice which opens at the side in a straight
line from tho shoulder is one of the popu-
lar styles this season, ana 1t may be
treated In much the same manner rs
the vest directly in front. The opening is
filled in with lace over thin silk. with
frills OF lace edginR down either side with a
velvet vest, and embroidery OF various kinds.
but the edges of the bodice usually fasten across
with bands and fancy buttons or buckles. or
with tiny cords and buttons; yet these are not
necessary when the frilis of lace are used.
Tucked silk or cloth waists are very stylish
made in this way opening over n velvet vest.
and one pretty model in green cloth has a vest
of velvet in a lighter shade and q square lace
collar edged around with fur.
Eton jackets and small boleros OF fur are very
much worn, and they add an air of elegance TO
u very simple dress. AID at the same time use up
odd bits of fur which would hardly answer for
any other purpose. Variety In theatre waists.
which are stylish, with the inevitable black
silk skirt which nearly every woman pos
sesses, is the one thing needful Just at
present, and one very novel design is a full
bodice of cream lace, spotted with silver and
jet spangles, made on white silk, and over this
is q bib front and back Of black satin, cut some
what like a child's apron. edged around with
jet, and laced together under the arms with
black satin ribbon. Velvet bodices in light col
ors are pretty for those who can afford them,
but very little velvet can be made to answer the
purpose. since the fronts are usually OF lace or
chiffon over silk. A plain back and bolero front
of velvet is pretty with either velvet or lace
sleeves. which have a velvet pun at the top. and
a collar band of gold and jewelled embroidery,
with n frill of white satin ribbon inside. is a
pretty finish. The ribbon Is two and a half or
three inches wide. arranged very narrow in
front, plated wide and full at the back,
so that 1t falls over In shells. with the lace
gathered inside. Waists which harmonic with
the skirt rather than contrast with it are the
rule this season, and, while two or three colors
are often combined in one bodice. the predomi-
mating tint must either match the skirt or show
a lighter or darker shade of the same color.
Evening gowns OF all kinds are in great demand
at this time of year, and a pretty dress for a
young girl is of white figured taffeta tucked