The enterprise. [volume] (Wellington, Ohio) 188?-1899, 1896-08-12
EUROPEAN LETTER.
An Interesting Letter from Our Foreign
Correspondent,

turn from Rome to America is, Have
YOU seen the Pope?" They seem to have
an idea that the head Of the Church is on
exhibition, as it were; and that the
private apartments Of the Vatican are as
accessible as any of the museums OF
galleries of Rome, much with same
feeling as one OF our compatriots VINO
walked with naive confidence
into the Royal Palace Of Belgium and
inquired il the King was in. Now there
is no special difficulty about seeing the
crowned heads Of Europe. Any one who
fingers long enough on Inter den Lin
den, or in st. James Park, or on the
Pincian Hill, is sure to have the salts
faction of saying that their own eyes |
have rested on Royalty. But more for
mality doth hedge the pope, especially
since the loss of his temporal power.
Comparatively few people can boast OF
having seen him, except in the distance
in st. Peters, which is so large that
even across the choir one can hardly dis
tinguish auother's features. Hepractic-
ally never drives out; his walks are con-
fined to the park; his little domain (now
restricted to the Lateran and Vatican)
is jealousy watched by the Swiss guards
of famous memory and fantastic uni
forms; and no Italian soldier or officer
is allowed to enter. He no longer at
Easter delivers the benediction to the
reverential multitude from the EOggia of
st. Peters. It would battle the resources
of even an enterprising American repor-
ter to obtain an interview with him.
Cards Of admission to his presence areob-
tanned only by the use Of whole bolts OF
red tape. Especially strict are they in
respect to the gentler sex which has
been regarded as menace to the race
ever since Ewes indescretion.
So considered it great privilege to
receive permit to witness ceremony
in the Sinistine Chapel. The card con-
tanned foot note stating that ladies
must wear black, with wells or scarfs
on their heads. The chapel was full at
the appointed hour. The Pontifex Max
linus was carried in by eight red-robed
attendants. He was dressed entirely in
white, except a scarlet ermine-bordered
mantel that was thrown over his shOul-
ders. His alabaster-like face was nearly
as cOlorless as the long silken draperies.
Only the eyes shown with yivacity and
animation, following the tremu-
lous motion of his hand from right to
left as he blessed the kneeling spectators.
He conducted the mass, his feeble voice
reaching only those nearest the altar.
At the elevation Of the host the Swiss
guards and other papal soldiers present
ed arms before kneeling.
After the ceremony his Holiness seated
himself with his back to the altar and
allowed those present to advance and
kiss the mavelOus sapphire ring that he
wearson the middlefngerof hisright hand
The sight Of this shadow Of a priest raising
his transparent hands in benedictiOn
while Michael Angeles menacing figures
stood out behind and above him, almost
as life-like as himself, was worth remem
bering.
Let us visit the miles Of parking which
, comprise the beautiful Villa BOrghes,
- grounds. 1t is Just outside the oil
POrta del PopOlO, which was designed ;!
: Michael Angelo, and is the favorite re
=, sort Of the Romans. But alas In sum
- mer when it is lovliest you dare not lin
ger there, lest, deadly fever walk witt
4 you, arm in arm, down the enchanting
q avenues, and death await you at the en-
= of the vista" In short, it is malariOus
Here, DOnatello, giving way to his will
b instincts, swung himself down from
~ treee in front of Merriam.
IS Instead of the throng of gay dancers
n the "cOntadinas" the ''plebian damsels,
n from the campaga, the French soldiers
!, and German artists" who joined Mil
lam and DonatellO in merry-making, tt
- day we meet representatives OF ever
~ phrase of Roman life. The well-tO-dO i
,. their fine carriages, the peasant with tn
. marks of toll on his clothes; English an
"a American tourists who have hired publ
cabs and were bent on apprOpriating tw
a. francs worth Of beauty per hour; romI
I ing, rosy-faced children, in perfect al
y cord with Nature; the Roman matroI
~, who had laid aside her household carr
10 with her apron, for half hour Of fres
in air in the park; a procession Of fifty Ii
90 tie orphan boys taking their daily wal
IN and followed closely and eyed narrowl
'io by three jealous priests. Finally
70. crowd Of young Benedictine monks ST.
# across the road, climbed the fence al
.oO went bounding up green hill toward
n grove of trees. They wore the loOs
IN flowing robes Of their order, which
n entirely white. There was no excepti'
to the invariable beauty Of white as
appeared on these young monks. In fa'
their ruddy faces furnished just I
III, needed contrast. For | have ney
uiV seen a finer set Of young men. TIL
looked more like college team crl