The San Francisco call., 1896-03-01

All full-dress skirts are finished with
double and triple ruchings of satin, three
or four rows being laced one above the
other, shading or mixing the colors to suit
the gown material. They made dainty
and effective finish and keep the shirts
well out.
1t seems almost an impossibility that
TINS season the gowns are to be more
ethereal and charming than those of last
year, yet l predict that they are to be
more beautiful than ever. What delight
1ul surprises Paris has in store for us can
only be vaguely imagined, and as you may
observe L have only been advocating the
making of simple frocks during the next
SIX weeks, for not until Lent is over shall
we see the gowns which will, of course, be
TOO sweet for anything. and the most be-
wltching of hats and bonnets will figure in
our happiest dreams.
80 strong is the hold Of the fancy bodice
that although it has been laughed to
scorn by many of the best dressmakers
and declared to be entirely out of style
still 1t tiourisbes, but those who desire to
be in style will 70 longer indulge in
startling contrasts, for tue skirt and
waist show tendency to "tone in."
A white and maize striped bodice lately
sleeves, which were apparently long,
square ruff1es, very full, falling from the
shoulders to the elbows.
Vogue gives an account of q club well
worth our consideration, so / will quote:
"a novel form OF club, and one that prom
lses to be in much favor during the COM
ing Lenten season, is the socalled Lunch
con Club. Eight or ten women agree to
read certain works of modern fiction, and
further agree to discuss them at a series of
luncheons given by the members of the
club on any day of the week chosen for the
meetings. 1t is a good way of making
ones self thoroughly acquainted with
some good books, and, provided the
works are fifty chosen, they make pleasant
topics OF discussion. The luncheons are
limited in length. and the introduction of
topics foreign TO the novel under discus
sion is strictly forbidden
At the reception given by President and
Mrs. Cleveland to the officers of the army
and navy Mrs. Cleveland is reported by
all who saw her to have been ''radiantly
beautiful" Her gown was of white flow
cred silk, combined with pink velvet. He
diamonds were excellent, but best of all
was her bright, happy smile, which never
faded, even after being grasped by the
hand by over thousand guests. which, to
say the least, must he wearisome per-
formance; and to most she made some
happy remark, and to all questions replied
with much tact.
The east room must have been beauti-
full sight, the decorations being stars and
anchors, wrought in flowers and lights,
the anchors being in red blossoms and the
stars were produced by electric lights
red, white and blue ones-and some one
who was present writes: Beyond this
room the night was turned into summer,
not on limited scale, but, so great is the
space and so profuse the abundance, that
if one fingered he would forget that there
was ever winter, hyacinths nodding their
perfumed greeting, almost as thickly
strewn as spears of grass; orchids, far
thicker than pitcher plants in summer
lilies and roses of the most delicious fra
GRANGE, as we'll as innumerable blossoms
of less bounteous deicacy; vines fit to
garland fairies dresses, foliage plants in
thickets of charming arrangement in form
and shading. and, towering above all, the
majestic grace of the great palm trees.
ALI around the exclamation was freely
tossed about, WAS ever anything more
beautiful, and did you ever see the White
House as fascinating as it is to-night?"
A well-known English journal states
that this Is the favorite pick-me-up of
American society women nowadays. The
yolks OF two eggs, with teaspoonful of
vinegar, pinch OF pepper and half-tea-