Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1896-04-22
Special Correspondence Herald and Tribun
HAWAII, The "PEARL OF
THE PACIFIC"
A Visit to Kauai.-Natural CuriOsIties
and an Ostrich Farm.
Copyright, 1885, by Funk 4 Wagnalls Com
pany, New York.

The Island of Kauai is sometimes
called the Garden leland of the group.
1t is one vast flower garden between
ninety and one hundred miles in cir
cumference. Vegetables, however, are
not grown very successfully there. The
island is said, by geologists, to be the
Oldest of the group. One thing is Ger.
tain, Kauai has better roads than any
of the other islands, and after wander.
ing through the stony, painless forests
of Hawaii, one finds the roads of Kauai
delightful garden paths.
On January 6, 1896, the little steamer
Mikahola lay at her dock in Honolulu
Harbor AT Pm. l alighted from the
carriage, walked up the gangway, and
took my position on the captain 3
bridge to watch the process of loading
mules.
This is an interesting sight. The ves-
sci has a derrick rugged on the deck,
and a broad belt is passed under the
mule to which hook is attached above
his back. AS the engine starts, the
mule is lifted from his feet and landed
on deck, much to his disgust. One of
the most amusing incidents have ever
witnessed was getting vicious mule
on board this vessel.
This mule was brimful of his Satanic
majesty, and flashed more birthstone
from his eyes than the great volcano is
doing today. His heels were light and
played with the rapidity of lightning
about among the natives, and when
they began to put the belt under his
body, he smiled in his sardonic way,
and seemed to be saying: Just watch
me buck when they tighten that cinch. :"
He seemed to labor under the delusion
that saddle was being placed on him.
AT last the belt was fixed, the hook in &.
serted in the ring, and the mate blew
his whistle to start the engine.
Puff, puff-rattle, rattle" the belt
began to tighten and the mule thought
it time to buck" He elevated his
back until it grew round, and all four
of his feet left the ground at the same
moment. Now came the surprise He
expected to land fat footed in such a
way as to completely paralize every
thing, but the cinch frightened and his
muleship swung high in the air until
such look of disgust and amazement t
came over his counteDance as would
make fortune for a farce comedian.
His gyrations, kicks and struggles in
mid air soon ceased, and he was gently
low to the deck. He seemed to
have it in for" the mate. for every
tine that parsonage came in sight the
mules hells flew out like springs to-
ward him.
Before we reached Diamond Head
the supper gong sounded. and the pas
sengers hurried down to finish the meal
before we entered the channel, as the
chances were we would not enjoy it a t
an hour later. The channels between
tue islands are never smooth, and seem
to be more dreaded by the inhabitants
of the islands than a voyage to Japan
or San Francisco. The vessels which
ply between the islands are small, the
sea "choppy," and if one can make
the tour of the islands in them without
getting seasick, he is proof against that
malady. l had made seven ocean voy-
ages without feeling any of the disa-
greeable effects of seasickness, and had
begun to boast myself born sailor,
but, alas, the channel between Kauai
and Oahu took the conceit out of M @.
At three o'clock in the morning the
tau N hn af, 30 -
loom and said we were entering the
port of Nawiliwil. l had not the
slightest idea where l was to land, but
somehow instinctlyely felt that this
must be my destination. l awoke
sleepy and cross, dressed hurriedly
seized my travelling bag and artist g
portfolio, and left the stateroom just
as the anchor was dropped.
Three ladies, myself, seven japanese
and fourteen Cinnamon were the pas
sengers to disembark. The harbor was
not very rough tho the water was
slightly undulating, We were COM
PEELED to climb down a rope ladder and
enter a boat manned by crew of
dusky Hawaiians. This feat, in the
night, is not pleasant, especially when
boat and ship are bobbing in different
direc tions.
AS soon as the mail was brought of
the omnibus took us to the hotel at
Likue, about one and half miles from
the landing. was shown to my room
and informed that DR.. E. q. Goodhue,
the government physician at Koloa,
wonld call for me during the forenoon.
Shortly after breakfast he came to take
me to Koloa as his guest.
The ride from Likue to Koloa was de.
lightful. The day was fair, the roads,
but for the red soil, might remind one
of New England. The kukua trees, OF
screw pines, and wild breadfruit grew
on every side. On the way we paused
at the Kauai Industrial School which
was established by DR.. J. s. Smith and
his sister. There are sixty boys in at
tendance at this school, where they are
not only given good English educa
ton, but are taught useful trades, such
as carpentering, blacksmithing, and
farming.
As we reached the beautiful village
of Koloa with its great old sugar mill
L nObiCOu III iIOHt Vi Ouc Vi tuc luIkcl
and better houses the glorious starr
and Stripes" flying. Supposing it tC
be the office of an American consul,
asked the doctor and he replied that i
was his own flag which he raised every
time an American landed on the island
One will never know how to appreciate
America and our glorious flag until b,
| soiourns in n foreign land
Come to my house and stay as Ions
as you like" said the United State
consul at Hilo. I'VE will feast ou
eyes on the flag and the American Goa
of arms, and talk of America. l an
never so happy as when find mysel
in the presence of an American citi
zen.h
On the afternoon of my arrival tn
doctor, his wife, DR.. Crane, aud mysel
went to the Spouting Horn, which i
not more than a mile and half from
Koloa. This is one of the wonders o
Kauai. The ledge of lava like rocl