Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-07-09
NOTES OF TRAVEL.

ehtSh :. A"ftp 6ope' Pannubo oh Nhut
will DO positively the Lust trip from
Philadelphia on the Kensington, as
from her size she draws too much
water for the Delaware river. We ran
aground on the Dan Baker Shoal and
lay for l2 hours with screws turning
In the mud until the morning tide
hoated US of. Toward the end of the
voyage we had the usual concert for
the benefit Of the British seamen, who
should be millionsres by now as they
are given a benefit on every voyage of
every ship flying the British flag, that
crosses the Atlantic, and often large
'sums realized, principally from Ameri-
cans making their first voyage. This
being an international line the proceeds
were ahareli with the ''Sailors' Snug
Harbor," an equally wealthy institu-
tion. Tho cuncort always ends with
God, Save tho Queen" sung stand
ing, by the English passengers, and
Just as inevitably, If the "Star Span
gled Banner Is attempted at all. IL
ends in failure, amid the privately
delivered jeers Of the English pas
sengers at our not knowing our own
national song. 1t is to be hoped those
contemplating transatlantic voyage
will practice IL and the 'Battle Hymn
of the Republic, and redeem them
solves and their compatriots from re-
proach. Whales must be on the in
croase, as. their spouting became
common sight and one great creature
lay on the surface summing his shining
back. and looking like o small black
island.
Added to the joy OF setting one's
feet on some place that did not heave
under them, was the sight of the vii
lagos with red tiled roofs and clustor-
ing gray chimneys, the farm houses
costly grouped, and all the intimate,
homelike character Of English scenery,
as We sped north on the London and
Northwestern, past stations whose
name was SO much less conspicuous
than the great illustrated advertise.
ments of 9 Boovi" or "Epps' Cocoa"
covering their walls, that we usually
failed to read it. We passed tho muddy
flats OF Morocambe bay. with tho tide
out, through Carlisle, ard Gretna
Green, and Ecclefechan, in view Of the
house where Thomas Carlyle was born !;
past miles Of open heath and morass,
with a background of low hills, the
Waste of Cumberland" traversed
by solitary road, stretching beside
the railway, with never traveller
thereon. This waste must have been a
more effectual barrier in the days of
border warfare than, the Cheviot Hills
that stretched to our right.
The ride through the mountains from
Calendar to Oban gives perhaps
the finest railway scenery in the
world; eachl mountain, loch, and brae
famous in poetry, romance, or history.
We passed the Braee of Balquiddher,
through the grim pass Of Brantler,
where cairns of stone mark the graves
of the slain clansmen Of lorn. by
"kilchurn and her towers on the
little island in Loch Awe. Ben-vorlich
was one glowing mass of purple
heather; waterfalls tumbled down the
mountain sides, with roar, and a
swish" like a rocket as the train
swept past them. Far up the noun
tain sides the small Highland sheep
were dotted like mushrooms, ptarInigan
circlcd round the mountain tops, here
and there gray heron rose slowly, or
group OF shaggy Highland cattle
started at the passing train. The few
stations paesed were gay with flowers,
and with the scarlet berries of the
rowan trees tour mountain ash).
AT Oban, choosing a hotel ut ran
dom, or perhaps guided BY the superior
eloquence of its porter at the station,
we came here, and find il very ''swell"
| Indeed, moro 80 than our purses will
be when we have paid our reckoning,
l fear. 1t is right on the Esplande
| with q charming view; close in front
the softly-roundod hills of the island
| of Kerrera behind them across the
Firth OF Lorne, tho purple hcadlands
and lofty mountains Of Null. To the
north tho Morven Hills of Ossian g
poems, their range of peaks broken by
a mountain with broad level top,
| "The Table of Lorn. - At their feet
stretches the low green island of Lis
more, and sheltered by all these, the
lovely bay Of Oban, filled with yachts,
and gay little steamers, and tiny row
boats, the gulls circing over them or
settling in groups to dispute over some
discovered treasure, and the sweet, salt
air blowing in from the Atlantic The
Esplanade, sea wall, with a broad
walk on ton encircles the bay, and the
town stretches from it up the semi
circular hills, each house obtaining u
glimpse of the exquisite view over the
roof of its neighbor. Tho sun set in
splendor, lighting up great banks of
cloud. As it sank behind the Morven
Hills. they looked of translucent
amethyst, changing to sapphire as the
red disk disappeared. Tho little boats
seemed gliding in sea OF molten red
gold. The lights on tho water faded
slowly in the long twilight. We can
see to read till 10 or half past, and go
to bed at II by daylight just as
was dropping off to sleep there came
up from the street tho most blood
cuIdling yells in Gaelic, then a police
mans whistle and the rushing of feet.
Running to the window l saw man
borne off bowling. lie had been
stabbed in a drunken brawl, but was
not seriously hurt. At tho breakfast
table next morning an Engishman re-
marked. haracteristically "He must
have been cad, you know, to halloa
| sop'
All Scotland stands still on Sunday, or
or moves only toward the Kirk. Even tho
little boats in the harbor seem to bob
less gaily at their anchors. We ven
tured to visit our lodgings elect, Ten
gagged from America), to learn il We
were expected. The landlady started
back in horror, with uplifted hands,
exclaiming, What! arrived on the
Sabbath dayr' When we assured her
we had not done such an iniquitous deed
she said we might come on the morrow.
For pound week each we have
a bedroom apiece, and parlor in
common, and attendance, which in
cludes tho cooking and serving of
meals. Ii We prefer, the landlady will