Evening star., 1896-11-14

control the fashions of women and he would
control their nerves.
That doctor was wise, but there is greater
wisdom And women possess it; or the
instinct which leads to the same goal. Clip
the sleeve wings upon which they rise above
earth's troubles and they have no time to
lament the bruises of tumble. for, since
one must walk, shall ones neighbor get
ahead in the scramble for embroidered
stockings and new shoes2 And flying is so
diSagreeable when walking is the style. Big
sleeves would give any woman nervous
prostration when small sleeves are the
thing.
And so We turn in better spirits than
usual from docked sleeves to overgrown
muffs and hats that soar into heaven. Size
is maintained always somewhere.
Would it not be a joke upon the doctor
If it were maintained in crinoline? Hoop
skirts would make q woman buOyant
enough in all conscience to set the physi-
clan quite at ease about her nerves. And
the exchange is not so impossible. Since
Sarah Bernhardt has staged Camille with
the dress of the time when it was written
everybody French is talking starch end
hoops, and it's never a long step from the
stage to the drawing room Already we
have scuttle bonnets for young girls. To
be sure they are small, not TO obscure the
1reSh faces too much, and to be sure thew
are dainty things of gray or violet velvet
with lace ruchings and strings. Cut scuttle
they are. and Scuttles and starch are closely
associated
High StOve-Pipe Crown.
But were not yet so nearly UP to date
in our fashions as the crinoline of the sec
ond empire. The aforementioned high
hats and overgrown muffs go back, like
most of this seasons novelties, to the Marie
Antoinette period AS the days go on and
the church steeples and the hotel-plaited
napkins get eliminated from millinery. the
new things that also good things get a
chance of notice and appreciation.
One of the smartest and at the same time
least exaggerated models TUNED out by q
9th avenue establishment has q high stove
pipe crown. Now. stove-pipes are not grace
full. but they offend the eye less than cones.
To be inoffenSive is the most one can exact
of this seasons millinery. The hat de-
scribed is or black velvet with q fiounce of
renaissance lace encircling the crown and
resting upon the broad brim. A bunch of
yellow roses touched with pink lies on the
.isht sue OF the brlm, while another bunch
Is tucked in beneath on the left side above
the hair. great cluster of pl.;mes gives
the esprit sought in all hat trimming
Theater headsear at last is SMALL def
nitely and decidedly small. An Instructive
example-one cannot call it hat, nor yet
Is 1t bonnet-has tiny crown of jeweled
cabochons with dusky bats wings spread
Ing at either side theater hat has
Tam OShanter crown of pale yellow velvet
touched here and there with golden brown
1t is trimmed with a white paradise bird.
The best length for the theater opera
wrap is just to the knees: not the best
length intrinsically, or the most graceful
but the approved and most novel On,
such wrap is a capes of silver white yelyf.
with a lining of silver blue satin The cans
is not fun one. but it is meant to he
worn open to show the thick ruchings of
blue chiffon that edge the lining under th.
border of sable fur that runs about the
outside hanging from the shoulders is a
large directory hood of old lace the strings
OF which are brought to the front and tied
over the bosom with a bunch of sable
tails.
Luxurious Long ClOaks.
shown is of dark green velvet, coming to
the feet and with the full sleeves not vet
renounced for outdoor wear 1t has a
deep, fancifully shaped yoke of a delicate
green-white satin embroidered with let and
edged with ermine. The same fantastic
design runs down the front and finishes the
sleeve cuffs. The standing collar flares and
is FILED it about the throat with lace end
ermine.
Short capes are but little altered. except
that by way of compensation for the late
over the shoulders and fiounced, very pos
sibly A pretty girl wore at the horse
Show an ermine cape SO full mat ii Law in
plaits. Two deep ruf1es of black velvet
EDGED 1t at the bottom, thread of lace
peepng from below each of them A
faring ermine collar rolled back from the
face, showing knots of velvet and lace
against the skin. Velvet bows with lace
ends were perched upon the shoulders
The capped girl had a muff, big baggy
Marie Antoinette mufr, of ermine and vel
vet, trimmed with bows.
Ihe season Is yet young for evening