The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-06-18

But There Is No Law That Compels Any
One v, Wear Them -P urpIe and Green
the Two Popular Coiors-Ncw Spring
Dresses and the Prevailing Materials.
copyright, 1896, by the Author.l
1t seems as if every succeeding weeks
output shows some new monstrosity in
the way of millinery or gowns, and by
the time the new one arrives we have
become so accustomed to the last that
we accept it uncomplainingly. The new
hats are frightfully ugly, and yet the
wearers manage to look we'll enough
under them. Some of them rival the ex-
travagant headgear of olden days. When
the hat itself is not high enough, queer
looking tulle puffs are added and made
to stand upright, sometimes in the shape
of fans, and oftener something like the
little glasses which hold the carbon
fiber for electric lights, or l might say,
like small balloons to explain it better.
Spangled tulle and dotted lace are also
used to make these puffs, and several
different colors of tulle are frequently
put together and made to form puffs or
draperies around the crowns. The full
Tam O'Shanter crown, made of velvet
and gathered to the straw brim, is a
favorite style. These are usually seen
on the straight sailor brims. Such a
profusion of flowers was never seen on
hats as now, or at least not in my recol-
lection. One very pretty if rather bril-
liantly colored hat had round sailor
brim of coarse straw in natural color.
The crown was of shot green and russell
velvet. Around the crown there was
braiding made of bright purple velvet
ribbon, and on the left side was bow
Of the same. Above it was gilt osprey
plume, and on the left side large clus-
ter of velvet primroses with their
leaves. Another design shows an old
style fiat with dropping brim, made Of
two tinted chip. The low crown was
encircled by plain band of Persian rib
bon. On the right side there was
bunch of pale nasturtiums, and on the
left were four large ostrich plumes set
in empire style. Very many of the hats
are designed to match costumes.
One particularly ugly hat was of pur-
1t had something of a continental shape
and was turned up sharply in the back
The crown was almost hidden by an
enormous fan of white silk null. In
front Of this was triple looped bow of
black velvet ribbon. Between the loops
were two fancy gold pins. On each side
there was a full ruching Of white crepe
lisse, with few bluets set in between,
SO that nothing but the petals showed.
The straw in this hat exactly matched
the shade of purple employed in the
gown and it's trimming This was Of tan
cashmere, with purple dots Of different
sizes. Around the bottom of the skirt
were three rows of purple silk in accor-
dion plaits. The snug, pointed basque
had three rows of the same plating.
The collar was of the same, though
wider. There were reversed revers edged
with the plating and embroidered with
black silk. The sleeves were wrinkled
from above the elbow, though they set
up pretty high above the shoulders.
Some of the newest sleeves are quite as
large as any that we have seen during
the last two seasons, but the most of the
latest importations have them nearly
tight quite to the shoulders or at least
to above the elbows. l remarked one
gown of challie where the sleeves set up
and out in quite novel form. They
were very long over the wrists and quite
tight to the elbow. They were without
doubt the ugliest sleeves of the season.
The whole of the gown aside from that
was neat and pretty. 1t was of old rose
with brown stripes, and these were heck-
ed with red and black. The skirt was
not very wide, and what width there was
was gathered The whole front of the
basque was made of lace, with cherry
velvet belt, stock and bretelles. Two
ridiculous wings Of stiffened lace spread
out over the stock. The hat was made
of stiffened lace and stood up widely
above the face. The crown was Of cherry
velvet, and there were four smoke gray
empire plumes. This special costume is
intended for warm weather.
Purple in every shade from the palest
lavender to the darkest prune is seen
everywhere. Green is the next to it in
popularity. The most tasteful ladies
choose the tints, but there are many
who wear the brightest of the primary
colors. There is pretty novelty in mo-
hair, with fgurings wrought like those
in the cheney silks-that is, by having
the threads printed before the stuff is
woven. This gives it delightfully."-
vague and shadowy outline The pref
tiest of these was light apple green,