The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-05-17

! slaves to obtain these results, and spares
neither time nor pains over each dainty
garment. l used to think her most I'M
interesting woman. My opinions have
undergone change since then. But to re-
turn to the graduates; not all of them in
/ tend to be arrayed in vestal white, as
| many prefer the very tempting figured
organizes, and some of them are quite the
most lovely things l have seen for long
time.
Let me describe some of the very latest
which are direct from New York and
originally from Paris that have a white
ground, over which are scattered the most
natural OF bluebells, and one with an
ivory ground is covered with the tiniest
little baskets from which the dearest and
smallest roses appear to be about to
fall. the flowers well cover the creamy
surface, ana this fabric is to be used
IN the composition of a graduation
dress for petite bas bleu," noted
for her tasteful wardrobe, and in her
case such gown will be infinitely more
becoming than the regulation sort. Num-
berless are the yards upon yards of
lace which will be consumed in the beauti-
| tlcatlon OF this conception. But one of the
most expensive and exquisite graduation
gowns have yet seen is a mass of drawn
work, Valenclennes, insertions and frills.
No wonder the bridesmaids who assisted
at the weddings of the week chose
organdy and lace over rose pink glace
They knew perfectly what would be most
becoming, and let me advise those who
announce that they would not be seen in
such cheap little frocks to price the
organdy, lace, ribbons and silk that enter
into the composition of one. and they Will
never again make such remarks. Many of
last winter debutantes are taking with
them to Newport and other fashionable re-
sorts dresses for informal dances of white
dlamante satin ana mousseline de sole.
E1<lr. Il Ill u
and for the moment lilies of the valley are
IN the greatest favor; not infrequently
are sprays of diamonds intermingled with
these simple flowers, although young
women for the most part affect pearls
Tulle skirts now are often seen embroid-
cred with tiny sprays OF flowers, and Hebe
boclceS are worn by all to whom the style
! Is becoming and the butterfly sleeve is
again in favor. Accordion-pleated tulle
and mousseline are much used for all
! sorts OF purposes.
| Belts are so extensively worn of every
description that the latest of untarnish-
able gold gallon, fastened with a beautiful
enameled buckle in oriental colorings
and IN rocco style, will be appreciated
however, the rich buckles of oxidized sill
yer, representing cupids reveling among
roses, are choice and artistically admir-
able. A belt OF dark-green alligator skin
mounted IN gold Is a useful and certainly
ornamental possession, which will be APP
| propriate with many gowns, as Will also
| be those of brown leather; and by the by.
| girls, narrow belts are stylish, but not
those which are so narrow as to give the
effect OF string tied around the waist. l
saw such one the other day.
Speaking of alligators' skin reminds me
that there was scarcity of baby alligators
| caught last year; as a result man made
a corner in the market, so for an alligator
carucase, which takes the entire body
covering OF one OF these animals, we have
| to pay decidedly steep price but thew
are very fashionable and not likely to be-
come common, and besides are warranted
| to wear forever, not a necessary recon-
mendation when we consider that the
styles change In everything with such dis
| tressing rapidity.
Scarcely can we find a single smart
dress about which there is not some en-
| broldery, for even the severe tailor gown
has also vest gayly worked, but naturally
the most beautiful figure on evening
dresses, and there is new tricote material
In gold, thin and transparent, adorned with
bouquets in silk EN- broidery, which faith
fully reproduce natures tints. A straw
called japanese straw, in black, white and
colors, Is seen in both day and evening
dresses. Claw settings for rhinestones
are new, ana Jet steel and iridescent
paillettes are mingled with most sat
isfactory results, as are also pearls
and silver and steel with silver TURQUOISE
blue is seen more with gold than with
silver, and the effect produced by embroid-
ering turquoise blue velvet bodice with
gold is all that can be desired Skirts are
now, especially those intended for evening
wear, made with richly embroidered
fronts. Some white satin skirts have lust
been made (by famous Paris housed with
| perpendicular bands of gold gallon one
inch wide and between these are truly
artistic lunches of flowers. wrought in
silk.
Numerous light satins are adorned with
clusters of flowers done in silver, and
many of the newest brocades have the
portion which forms the front of the skirt
outlined with gold thread and paillettes.
and beautiful are the trimmings that
adorn the bodices which complete such
skirts and "quite new is loose obIone
piece of thin material covered all over
with iridescent sequin embroidery, con-
tinued from the shoulders to the waist,
and sufficiently transparent for the figure
to be seen through it," 1t would indeed
be difficult to surpass in richness and
beauty of design the trimmings and orna-
called simple frocks
Distinct waists are in great demand and
some OF the newest are of the pinafore
shape and are to be seen of tie finest en-
brolderles on muslin, net and mousseline
de sole. One especially attractive is made
wv iOoS pihoi ciih. n JdDOL VI lace or
naments the front and at the back appears
bow enriched with oddly coIored pail
lettes. Those of the finest black and white
striped organdy over white silk are ex-
ceedingly chic. They are usually enriched
with an applique of lace, black being used
on white and white on black with almost
equally good results, and paillettes usually
appear on some part of the garment. The
queer shade of old rose colored shot silk / S
quite the thing and is frequently combined
with white Tor very fetching dinner bod
ices. This same silk is used as a founda-
ton of Arabesque embroidery in which
black velvet is applique and outlined with
gold and tiny jewels. Chintz and floral
colorings prevail and equally attractive
are the colorings and patterns OF the
renaissance period. Renaissance lace
trims many OF the most beautiful fchus.
They are made of the sheerest and most
expensive fabrics
Our bodices are to be pointed and the
points are to be very long. They will not
end at the waist line, for a fold or rouleau
of the same material carries them slightly