The Van Buren press., 1896-08-29
In THE BAHAMAS,
by wILrRED BENDALI.

which the average Englishman is more
hazy than about the Bahamas-thei isles
of June-of the Pink Pearl-of the
0leander, as they have been variously
styled. Several reasons may account
for this. The islands lie apart from the
other West Indian possessions, and out
of the course of the great steamships;
they are in no direct communication
with England whatever, nor with the
nearest British colony, Jamaica, except
by means of an occasional sailing VS.
sel-and from all local schooners may
heaven preserve the unwary visitor!
Most of the export and import trade
is with the United States, and the only
regular communicate ton with the islands
is furnished by the American steamers
leaving New York fortnightly, calling
at Nassau, and proceeding to Cienfuego
on the south coast of Cuba; and by the
Bahama Shipping company, which runs
a steamer every three weeks between
New York and Nassau.
The islands are largely patronized by
American visitors during the winter
months, who come thither to enjoy the
the superb climate; and as a travelling
Englishman is quite rara avis, every
stranger is assumed to be American un-
til he proclaims his nationality.
The Bahamas consist of a group of
some $50 islands (only 20 inhabited),
widely scattered, the extremes being
something over 400 miles apart. Many
of them are only partially explored, and
some of the smaller ones scarcely
known; the population is, of course,
very scanty, the last census giving only
1900, of which about 90 per cent. are
eolored people.
Nassau, the capital land indeed the
only town worthy the nance, is situated
on New Providence, an island about the
size and shape of Isle of Wight. The
the jail, the hospital and the Royal
Victoria hotel, said to be the best in
the West Indies Ii is only open from
Christmas till the end of April, that be-
ing the times at which visitors come
from the states; although as far as the
in October and the weather is cool and
delightful from the beginning of No
sember. The thermometer during the
winter varies between 10 and so de-
grees.
At other times of the year accommo-
dations can be had at the Curry house
and at various boarding establishments.
The bank, post office and most of the
shops are in Bay street-a long, wide
street, planted with almond trees, run
ming along the coast, east and west.
The roads around the town and indeed
far into the country are excellent. The
island cannot boast of any special
beauty of scenery; with the exception
of very low range of hills, the country
is fat, in some places swampy. The
uncultiyated portions are always COW
cred with vegetation, sometimes by AN
almost impenetrable bush, sometimes
by pine trees, and sometimes by many
miles of beautiful palmettos-plants
without which no London drawing
room is complete nowadays.
At the back of Nassau is limestone
ridge through or over which are roads
leading to the native towns. These
being sheltered from the dry north
wind, and hence being somewhat damp
er and warmer than the capital, exhibit
the most wonderful wealth of tropical
vegetation Each cabin stands in the
midst of garden where such utility
trees as cocoanut palms, oranges, ba-
nanas, guavas, and sometimes bread
fruit, are sure to be seen; the merely
ornamental plants are also not for
gotten; every species of rose seems to
run wild in the gardens, and in this
land of perpetual summer the trees
keep blooming right along" as an
American might express it. There are
four of these native settlements at the
back of Nassau, and to botanist
nothing can he more interesting than a
ramble throush the streets, or, more
properly speaking, lanes.
The list of trees and plants flourish
ing on the island seems almost mex
haustible; besides those before men
toned, some of the oest known are:
Silk. cotton. banyan, mahogany, ebony,
satin-wood trees; pineapples, grape
fruit. shaddocks, mangoes, yams, plan
tains, sugar cane, etc.
The chief and oldest industry of the
place is sponging; an apparently end
less supply of sponge is found on the
reefs which surround the islands. The
&c in ~
to Nassau with their cargoes. and large
heaps may be seen almost any morning
in the exchange. Sponge is sold by auc-
ton, clipped and pressed, packed in
bales, and dispatched to agents in New
York and London. Several species are
found, but none of them are of SO fine
quality as most of the sorts from the
Mediterranean.
Vast quantities of live turtle are con-
tinually being shipped, which figure
later at Delmonico's and the London
restaurants. Another species (the nom
edible) is also abundant, and furnishes
an important industry in Nassau; the
shells are polished whole, and form very
attractive ornaments, or are cut up to
make combs and other small articles.
The two great prizes for which every
fisherman is on the lookout are the
pink pearls and ambergris. The former
are found in the flesh of the large coneh
(strombus gigas), a very abundant
shell which is dived for by the boys,
who are most expert in this exercise.
A pearl of unusually large size was prr-
chased by a dealer in Nassau lately
for { 4O5; as. however, only one shell
-,.1 ar.4os,,r /. voor1 mi 4bnp