The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1896-07-12

NEWPORT DOSTUNE WITH CUFFS.
THAT 10 NOR MITcH IN COLON.
How one Can he THE Best Dressed Wo->
five Waists Minor Fashion Tips.


and absurd little notions tylettes." one
may call them-to Haunt and iiuttcr their
brief day IN The sunlight.
II the stage spcctacics are correct. me
diaeval Itanans cf tho Steiner Sex used
TO clotho their legs In different colors.
Not even the gaycst bicycnst OF the pres
ent day has cared attempt the device.
but women boldly adopt the parti-coioTcd
idea. being than men. more brave.
One OF the prctticsi uses of patri-col-
orCd cfcct that have seen this summer
Is the pair OF cuns In different colors. 4
pretty gown IN green silk has. for in
stance, ID bodice partly built OF shot
green silk with turquoise. and spangcd
and glittcrus ali over with green and
turquoise. one Gun is q green silk the
other Of turquoise silk.
have heard from a recent arrival from
New YORK the story of a woman who
has just gone o. Saratoga with The grim
and determined intent Of being one Of
the best dressed women there at q COM
parativcly trining expense. Her dress
maker az command. equipped her with
four skirts. aN black and with twenty
five waists. 1 presume there were other
things, mitigating circumstances. as IL
were. but these are the bold faciS Sorlc.
of the waists were very cheap. some fair
~ expensive. The skirts were an plain.
but capable Of sophistcation by pendantsi
and wrcathings of lace.
The whole OUTFIT Of tho Saratoga wO-
man may not have cost much more than
"a single gown which j have been admir-
Ing II has "a blush gray silk skirt. with
panels ofuamcntcd with cut steel beads
The bodice Is made OF rose silk taffeta
covered IN part with gray chiffon. The
elbow sleeves are made with stiff cuffs
from which depend more cf the gray
chiffon. And 10 get the precise shade
OF gray the modiste took white chiffon
To a dyer and had 10 dyed 10 the exact
tint required. matching the CLINT CT the
cruel little steel beads.
l suppose that the proud owner Of this
gown nattcrs herself that she will not
soon see il copied, and as the gamut OF
dyes is practically unlimited. anyone else
can al the same expense cf time and mo-
ney. also rejoice in gown not likely TO
be copied il it seems worth while.
The newest thing in sieeycs-tO perpe-
trate bulls the same old newest thing
that IL has been for the past few weeks.
only mere so. IL really seems as if the
new sleeve were making its way sue
cossward. II is throwing off disguises.
IL is lessening the fullness of its shoulder
puifs and capcs. Ii is smoothing out its
wrinkles until now one shall see per-
fectly smooth and tight fitting sleeves
from shoulder 10 wrist. needing only the
abandonment Of the shoulder puff 10 be-
come the close sleeve Of more than ten
years ago And then We shall all discoV-
or anew what a beautiful thing is a
sleeve that follows the curve of the arm
and shoulder-that is If there are fine spe-
Cimens OF their sort
Perhaps a foulard gown that has at
tracted some admiration here illustrates
as well as any the newest phase Of smart
La. in a.
rather conspicuous The sleeves are quite
snug up TO the middle Of the upper arm,
where they retain small shoulder pufs.
There is a velvet stock collar with peep
of lace above the ribbon belt is six inch
Is wide ana there is a tiny rufle at the
hem.
The same shape. plus a big bel-muz-
zle expansion at the cuff. distinguishes a
blue and gray shot mOhair which has
other original features. These are the
quaint use of three horizontal lines Of jet
about the hips. three across the bust. a
wide turnover flap attached 10 the col
lar and. oldest of all. two let-bOssed
scarves hanging from either side Of the
yoke for all the world like the ribbons
hung to the brides OF prize winners at
the Horse Show.
| have seen "a boating gown Of dark
blue flannel with a fine white line rum
ming through IT. which has deep braided |
and-buttoned cuffs and sleeves Of the |
leg-of-mutton shape. but 50 small that |
one nigh. call them leg-of-lamb. instead |
The coat Is short I'm front and faced with |
white. and any old waist. or new enc, |
goes with II.
Something newly new I'm driving coats |
IS clever combination Of bodice and !
cape II is In effect clOse-ftting bod |
ice 10 the hips. furnished with tight |
sleeves over these hang fun long cape |
sleeves. so arranged that, seen from the |
side the garment looks like veritable |
cape. but displays the figure from any |
other view point The cloth Is heavy and |
fawn-colored, the lining IS silk brocaded |
in pale rose
For evening dress for summer wear |
II Is almost obligatory that some thin ma
tcrial be- worn over silk. Dotted muslin /
does as well as anything \ pretty gown |
covered with this material is made Of pale /
green six quite plain In the skirt. There |
IS q fan of lace al the wrists. the shoulder |
straps are outlined with velvet ribbon i'm |
n darker green. and the bodice is formed |
almost entirely Of these ribbons banded |
diagonally forward and upward and knot
ted in front In a succession Of bows. The
ornaments are pink roses.
The irregular hat the picture hat. IS
sim the favorite OF the summer girl II
always will be. so dong as summer girls
value the picturesque quality. Perhaps |
the favorite shape is the shallow scuttle
brim falling pretty low i'm front and turn
ed sharply up behind. and with the tit |
hour-glass or hccf-eater crown The quill |
ed chiffon and yelling effects so popular |
a month ago have not gained In favor
perhaps have hardly held their own. An
exception is made in favor OF dotted chif-
fon. which has rather more piquant en-
phasis and illustrates the survival of the |
fttest. a few hats are now seen of the
toadstool shape. the brim falling away
at quite an angle from the crown on all
sides: such hats are generally quite plain
~ trimmed and used for outing purposes.
For the more dressy hats bands OF black
ribbon and black plumes are I'm high
favor An occasional white Leghorn hat
bent down al the sides by a ribbon tie
under the chin has a charming and de-
mure effect A third STYLE Of hat In light
coiors has itself so covered with roses
that II seems 20 have been borrowed from
tho head OF "A Dresden statuette.
There Is a reaction. easy long ago 10
predict. toward simpler shapes in para
soils The bchounced and nuttering tri-
nes Of early spring were well enough for
display then. but FOR use now palmer silk
makes are In more demand. And the oran-
mentation is now lavlshed mainly upon
the handle ELLEN OSBORN.
Goddess of Girl