The Saint Paul globe., 1896-11-30
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1.-THE HOUSEHOLD:
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TnE RE1GN oF THE PIE.



1t has been recently declared that the
characteristic dessert, the fruit pie,
was destined soon to disappear from
American tables, giving place to for
eign Gates and less substantial dishes
This would be matter for genuine
regret. A properly made pie is one of
the most excellent of all desserts. 1t is
something that was evolved from the
peculiar conditions surrounding the do
mestic larders of pioneer times, and re-
calls those days when there was abun-
dance of the fresh fruits of the earth
and a lack of dried preparations and
spices from foreign lands. One promi--
nent essayist has commended this char
acteristic dish. Whatever improve
ments are introduced in American food
and whatever methods are adopted
from foreign lands, the greatest effort
should be in the perfection of those
dishes that are already firmly >engraft-
ed in the domestic cuisine of the coun-
try. No land can afford to give up it's
characteristic dishes.
The pot-au-feu of the French peasant
has been a characteristic French dish
for over thousand years. The method
of preparing it. with slight changes,
has been handed down from mother to
daughter. 1t would be impossible to
introduce this excellent broth into such
general use in this country 1t would
mean the overturning of long estab-
liShed domestic customs and prece-
dents. One might as we'll expect the
wild poppies and corn flowers of France
to grow spontaneously in American
wheat fields. The American lupine,
that blossoms on the borders of grain
fields in June. is a lovelier azure than
any corn flower. The brown pot roast.
which New England housekeepers pre-
pare from the same pieces of beef that
the French peasant utilizes in making
a pot-au-feu, is just as rich and eco
nomic a dish Of meat as a foreigner
can make
The American pie, made of the sweet
est and richest favored fruit. baked
between layers of the fakiest puff
paste, is triumph of culinary skill. 1t
is the success of this dish which is
celebrated on the THANKSGIVING table.
ShroVe Tuesday is the day when every
one in England, from the dignified dean
of Oxford to the smallest scapegrace in
the village schools, is expected to eat
pancakes. Christmas is the festival of
Plum pudding. Thanksgiving is the
FESTIVAL when the place of pre-eminent
hoIlor is given to American pastry.
On the properly appointed Thanks
GIVING table gigantic chicken pie.
decorated with wreaths and flowers of
pastry. crowns the feast and divides
the ho1or of piece de resistance with
the turkey. The great brick oven of
oIdeh times yielded for this day fruit
pes OF many kinds, with pies of numn-
KIN SQUASH and mince Let no mud
ulhg De served on this day. At least
thfee Varieties of pies should apnaar
On the Thanksgiving table; old-fash-
.ohed pumpkin pies, apple and nlince.
10 these might be added pies of dried
berries and Of cocoanut.
Inc cocoanut was brought to this
country early in the colonial times
[hfough trade with the West indies
ana the cocoanut pie early received a
place of honor among the .~eu dessartS of q
- laa++fTIsgivfng day. Some authorities in
slst on placing baked Indian pudding
On the Thanksgiving menu. While this
Is typical New England pudding, it
was never regarded as a pudding for
festive occasions. The abundance of
sweet pies on the board makes anv
other sweet dish superf1uous, and it is
not necessary or desirable to initiate
the Wanton abundance which sometimes
characterizes the old festival
PIE PASTE.
There are thousands of kitchens In
the country where the preparation of
paste is the chief question. There Is
no art Of the cook that requires such
deftness of touch as puff paste. TT
should justify its name and be a mass
OF delicate layers separated by air
spaces. The poor dying Indian asked
the French missionary who fold him of
the delights of paradise if there would
be any French pastry there, thereby
showing his appreciation OF the Parf-
sian dessert. American housewives of
o1den times were quite as adept as
French chefs in the preparation of puff
paste. The pastry of today is apt to be
inferior, because inferior fats are SUD-
sttuted for butter. Nothing but the
sweetest butter, free from salt, will
make good paste 1t is hardly necessa-
ry to repeat the familiar rule, which
calls for cup of butter, two cups Of
pastry flour, half teaspoonful of salt
and the same amount of sugar, mixed
together with half G, cup of Ice water
This rule gives no idea Of the secret OF
success. Everything depends upon the
manner in which the ingredients are
mixed together. No one can make puff
paste successfully in O. heated kitchen
sirable, and a porcelain rolling-pin OF
the picturesque blue and white ware,
used so much in German kitchens, is
excellent, though hardly essential US
ing a knife rather than your hands.
Make it into paste with the water, still
using the knife. Roll out the paste ON
a board slightly -dredged with flour. Re
member that every ingredient must be
as cold as you can have it, and that
the work must be done in room where
the temperature is not above 60 de-
grees.
Your movements with the rolling
pin must be rapid, yet light Work
the other half Of the butter In ice
water and form them into thin hard
cakes. Dry them with a towel and cut
them into bits about half an inch
square. Sprinkle these bits OF butter
over the pastry. Dredge lightly with
-four. Trim all the edges of the pastry
to the center and turn the lump thus
formed. Strike it lightly with the roll
ing-pin and roll it out and repeat the
process until all the bits of butter are
used The pastry should not stick
to the rolling pin or board. 1t will
not do so. unless the materials become
too warm or unless your movements
are so heavy that you break open the
air spaces of the tfoIdings'' Of the
paste When the butter has all been
Incorporated into the pastry, roll 1t out.
Lay it in a tin pan. set on the ice TO
become thoroughly stiHened This pas
try, if it is kept on the ice, may be
made the day before 1t is needed. 1t
is not improved by keeping any longer.
Roll it out and fold 1t two or three
times before using it. Roll 1t out thin
the last time, and line the pie plates.
The best pie plates are those OF tin,
with the rim at least an inch high.