The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1896-05-24
FANCIES FOR SUMNER
UNIQUE AND PRETTY COMBINATIONS
IN THE FASHIONS FOR WOMEN.
All Sorts Of Economics That May he
pearance of Extravaganza.
New York sun.

New York sun.
The most attractive things in fashion this
season are seen in the unique combinations
OF color and materials, and in the varied ac-
cessories of dress which are such con-
spicuous feature OF the week. 1t is all very
suggestive of extravaganza. and yet all sorts
Of economies in dress are brought about with
unusual and fashionable results because of
the mixture OF ooIors and materials used in
one gown. Any combination between gauze
and inexpensive wool serge is permissible,
and odd lengths can be utilized more success
fully than ever. since all the latest Partisan
models have bodices different from
the skirts and sleeves. Fanciful fash
ions always favor economy in dress,
and with white or colored silk or satin
for the foundation waist a garment can be
made very pretty with lace, net, ribbon or
embroidered lawn for the outside, with the
vest and epaulets of still another material, If
desired. while the collar and belt of velvet.
satin or fancy ribbon furnish another use for
odds and ends.
The latest novelty in dress materials is
very ordinary hemp sacking, woven, of
course, with heavy threads and very open
mesh Some Paris dressmaker has introduced
this, ana waile it looks very innocent and
cheap, the gowns are made very expensive
with elegant silk and satin Innings and out
side decorations OF embroidery. Insertions
with colored ribbons underneath are used,
and the whole effect is not at all suggestive
of the low-priced sackcloth. Another ma
terial. called "bure." is very popular, espe-
cially in brown; 1t resembles popln and mo-
hair. or something between them, which is
little like each one.
The Whole tendency in dress materials this
season is 10 produce something transparent
enough to necessitate a silk lining and dis
play the snot effects to good advantage, but
there is a new substitute for silk called
ard most Industrious sort of a rustic for
those who cannot afford the more expensive
lining. Beige coiored canvas over pale blue
makes a charming dress with a plain skirt
and Louis XVI coat finished with band
or black satin around the bottom and 1.-TWO
large pearl buttons at the back The vest
may be of chiffon. lace. or almost anything
you choose, but silk handkerchiefs in SUBJ
dued blue, green and red tints very
pretty for tbs purpose. with two pointed
ends trimmed around with narrow lace fall
These, wide belts of bias satin slightly
draped around the figure are a distinct fea-
ture OF the new gowns, and some of them
three stiff bows of the same satin. An
ether and more striking characters
tic of the latest summer gowns is the long
or with various kinds of fichus and cape
collars. The lining is cut the usual length
on the shoulder, so the bodice has the adj
vantage OF being comfortable and at the
same time quaint in style. Strictly tight
fitting waists with narrow basque frls and
fancy vests without any blouse effect are
Ice Is another revival Of cld-time fashions
which appear among the new evening
dresses. TIE pontsas deep in front and the
hack Is finished With basque. Some of
these waists lace up the back and others
have the embroidered stomacher and fasten
at one side of the front. 1t is safe TO as
sumo. however, that when these pain waists
come into general favor-if they ever do
there will be some modern touch by way of
Improvement on the old style, for history in
fasnlons rarely ever repeats itself literally,
the difference in taste being always an e,e-
ment in any change Of style.
%, FANCY. WAISTS
Fancy waists shovtno sign of waning pop
ularity: on the contrary, the variety in
creases and becomes more attractive all the
time. One model of lowered silk has double
frils of lace over the shoulders and white
chiffon draped to the, front and tied In a
large bow fastened with a gold buckle. An
other buckle fastens the belt, which is of
the silk. and passes through and under the
fullness of the bodice in front. Another ex-
ample carried out in lowered silk has a
vest and close sleeves of pufsed ivory NOUS
seine de sole and Vaiencennes insertion.
and the wide frills of silk over the shoulders
are edged with lace: A striped silk waist
mas bias ruff1es OF silk trimmed with narrow
lace across the front. and the upper one is
cut wide enough to shirr into a tiny yoke
ana neck band, and forms collar across
the back. Grass lawn In ecru, cream and
white Is leading material among the thin
waists Tor wear in warm weather as well as
almost like chiffon are very desirable eI made
over c0lored silk. Insertions of embroidered
cream grass lawn, arranged TO form plaid
on pure white over pale blue form the
ribbon collar and belt. The variety of pat
terms in grass lawn are beyond description,
out the latest novelty is the chine effect,
pretty as they are with coiored flowers and
stripes traced with gold thread All sorts
up a plain silk waist or supply
the finish tor coat and skirt gown. Old
evening dresses are made quite modern by a.
hchu OF chiffon, trimmed around with yellow
ACE, and caught in the shoulders with
rosettes Of the chiffon; and the prettiest
or Powered linen batiste These little
accessories. of dress. which add SO
much TO the appearance, are very expensive
TO buy all mace, but quite the reverse when
made at home. as they require very little
material.
SOME FRENCH MODELS.
One French model, with plain, high
reclxed waist, has tiny belt of satin above
a two-inch basque fri. and sleeves with a
short pun at the top, and slashed from the
waist to the elbow on the inside TO show a
plating of white chiffon, which also forms
the vest fitted down fat Another point in
fashion just at present is the return of
square and bolero jackets. which vary in
length from the waist line and three CT four
inches above. The shorter one seems to be
the more desirable, as 1t displays the wide
a Ia mad IL x.-fsh xx-ff
but is usually deliberately decorated, espe-
c:ally in front, with embroidered or APP
p.ique lace, sprinkled generously with SPAN
giles OF various colors One gown of light
tan canvas has short boiero embroidered
| on the velvet revers and jacket with col
ored silks. This opens over vest of the
same canvas. with two fancy buttons at the
| waist line and a jabot of cream lace at the
| neck. Tan-colored canvas made over shot
green silk Is very pretty. with rows of
bronze spangleS around the waist, fulled a
| little at the belt back and 'front.' and
| trimmed with epaulets aAd basque of
gu.pure lace Among the endless variety of
| gowns for spring and summer wear are
| those OF coarsely grained alpaca, and four
| the skirts. One costume in navy blue has a
| blouse waist and sleeves OF checked silk and
fchu cape like the skirt, with Plated frils
of silk around the edge. The alpaca gown
| is IN biscuit COLOR with ppngs OF
| green glace silk. The fight-fitting under
| sleeves are of Alpaca, with Venetian cuffs
and ruffles OF chiffon. and the oversleeve is
| black satin edged chiffon. The vest is OF
| chiffon. striped with applique lace and the
| tabled basque Is ornamented with fancy
| buttons and frill of chiffons and applique