The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-03-01
ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
STRING MILLINERY AND THE LAT
EST TIDINGS FROM FRANCE.
ings of Net and Lisse-The RumOr
OF the New SIeeVe-PaFasol Talk.

1nEs or net ana Ltsse-Ihe RumOr
of the New sIeeVe-PaFasol Talk.
Copyright. 1895
New York. Feb. 29.-Pity the sorrows of
poor picture play" man,
There is one such in this town to-day.
most unhappy. He is producing play or
story to be read by himself and iIustrat-
ed by pictures thrown upon a lantern
screen. Those pictures he gets by pho
tographing real people in real costumes
against real backgrounds II is a tremcn-
dOus task, and only one man in the
country has yet found the energy or de-
veloped the many-sided genius necessary
TO accomplish it. Him / have thrown
ito an agony of apprehension by my ar
ticle of last week, limiting at the pOssi-
bility Of the new sleeve. And him have
Mr. Kaufmans sketches further democrat
lied. You can't redress a photographed
woman like a live one.
If a mere man with n camera can be
agitated by the menace of the new sleeve,
consider what must be the soulwaves of
uncertainty surging through the bosoms
of the half million professional and TWEEN
ty million amateur millinerS OF the land!
What a waste OF emotion! For so often
the apprehension is unfounded, or the APP
pearance of the new mode premature or
tentative. For my part, II l were man
needle I'd still make the sleeves big; and
sleep sound O nights. The new sleeve
may be coming; ii certainly looks that
way. But 1t doesn't take long TO wear
out a DRESS and the present mode will
die hard.
There is less uncertainty about hats, be-
cause the record-making ana pace-setung
hats come all ready made from Paris, and
they are now nearly all made or planned,
both for spring and summer. rogue, shade
and picture hat-much II has been, the
hat will hp a hngufifnl lmnOTtp0
called the butterfly, 10 translate It's trench
name, is toque of Jet and gpapgleS,
trimmed in front on the prlm WIN SIX
back is a large black silk how, divided
by a high quilting OF cream-colored lace.
Before the bows on either side are arrahs-
ed rays of odd end-tufted feathers. n
buckle of emeralds and rhlnestones CLEANS
and flashes in front, and there are TWO
more roses on either side
a fancy straw hat bears ABOUT the pflm
a decoration of quilted drapery of apple
green silk and emerald-green tulle. Ihere
is spray-somehoW the WORD uoesi
seem quite appropriate--of tiny red apples
with their clustering leaves, tied with a
bow of black velvet, and there's Il Dig
bunch Of voets at the back. These hor-
ticultural and pomOloglcA eNhlDluohs
sometimes cause one 10 dilate with the
wrong emotion. And much do l prefer
to them Partisan though they be,
simple wide shade hat with bow OF lace
and a net veil. An worn above pretty
face 'twera pretty hat enough.
The prevailing tendencies in hats, the
Zeit Geist thereof. are from me Farlslan
standpoint easily stated. The use Of
the aigrette is strongly in favor ana II
will continue to be as much OF FAVOR
tie as the past. Black viii be much
used-and this is true of the making or
gowns as well-but there VIII be alleVi-
ating circumstances, and cMet among
these gold Gold embroidery, or black
gauZe Veined with streaks of gold, plum
age powdered with gold dust ana the
sheer barbarism of gold buckles and
crescents will prove that silver calhoS
have things all its own way Much OF
the new ribbon trimming for hais ana
gowns alike VIII be woven with threads
or strands of gold and the same device
will eb introduced into the plating OF
straws The frilled and quilted arrange
ments of gauze or net, the pouis anu
aigrettes viii be eminenty suitable 70
the spring and summer season. Even
quite heavy stuifs will be so treated,
| gossamer, lisse muslin, crepe, chiffon,
tulle or net, for Instance. Wide lace bow
ties fastened at one sidey are likely 10
be popular, but 1t is less easy to prophe-
! sy upon this dubious ground Ribbons
so narrow are used for bows so big that
they are sometimes wired, ike bargain
sale roses A better device Is to provide
a bow of muslin or net with sewn-on
edge of marrow ribbon 70 keep II from
woven with two faces by way OF contrast
and gauze ribbons are now made striped
with satin or silk, or with lines IN gold
pattern interviewer. Small patterned
| oriental and Dresden designs are com
monty used and there is a tendency to tilt
hats down over the eyes Of the fair wear
! 1t is not a new discovery that a pretty
| girl looks pretty in black, or anything
/ else. If she be a pretty young WIDOW
| with a face a trifie saddened or soDered
/ by a glimpse at the stern realities, black
| has a new meaning, Of course. one OF
| the prettiest mourning dresses | nave
seen is a perfectly plain black skirt or
| lusterless silk, a bodice covered with dot
! ted black net and big sleeves covered al
| so with net. Big sleeves look somehow
| incongruous with the idea of bitter GRIEF,
| but such is life! And did no more than
| note the incongruity, for the young Wild
| owls companion was pretty girl in a
! very curious and snowy gown, also black,
/ with a plain skirt, a velvet belt, square
| low corsage, narrow shoulder straps ana
! below them, after an appreciate ana ap-
! preciated CLINT Of white firm flesh, a
| hanging sleeves of black satin, figured ana
/ dotted with jet and silver ornaments in
snaky lines similar to those which wound
| their sinuous way and down the bodice.
! And here were long narrow N-points OF
| velvet reaching down toward the waist,
the points bordered with rows Of close
| basque of highly ornamented velvet, shot
at the sides, went down at front into two
These short-skirted basquee, by the way,
| have lost little of their popularity. Prob
| ably at least a third of the street gowns
made with them, and they Influence to
/ their own jounty shape a respectable pro-
| portion of the street jackets.
Curious indeed is spring opening of
| parasols held during snowstorm, but
/ stranger sights are seen nowadays. The
/ fiounced parasol is in high favor. 1t may
| be draped with chiffon, caught back at
the alternate ribs to reveal the silk be-
| meath. 1t may be covered and double
| bounced with silk and bear a bunch of vi
| Diets at the end of each rib. Sometimes
square of dotted muslin IS overlaid up
| on it. and sometimes each rib is outlin-
! ed with a roll of lace houncing. Many of
these parasols of the season seem too
fussy and elaborate, but we shall all
| get used to them: never fear.
| Meanwhile the cloak is still comforta-
] ble: and it is sti1 made of velvet and fur
| if one can get them.
| And the tailor made girl with the mas
| culine shirt front, displayed with greater
| abandon than is ever the shirt front mas
cuine, is preparing to burst again upon