The San Francisco call., 1896-04-26
N unusually pretty wedding was
solemnized last week. The bride
and her sister. the maid OF honor,
! were both charmingly and be-

"
comingly arrayed. Many are the
regrets expressed that San Francisco will
lose so attractive a member of society.
The girls were more lovely than ever in
"living pictures Indeed, it would hard
to say who was the greatest belle, most of
them being pretty as picture. And how
amiable our bellies are when requested to
assist in any charitable undertaking, but
this one is unusually interesting and ex-
crllent so | Wish 1t every success.
The large tea given last Saturday on
Jackson street was one of the most sue
cessful and delightful of the season. Many
of the most attractive girls in the City
were present and several of them assisted
the debutante in receiving. She was fasci-
natingly lovely in her gown of pale-yellow
satin, the skirt plain and perfectly hung.
The bodice of the satin was yelled
with creamy mousseline de sole, embroid
cred in dots. 1t was given true
Frenchy touch by means of narrow black
lace insertions, which were effectively in
troduced. One of the young girls who
assisted in receiving was, as usual, much
admired; her dress of fine grass linen,
with insertions over silk, was model by
which many summer frocks might well be
made. There is no fear of such becoming
common, but you will not realize how ex-
pensive such dress is until you ask
Madame" what she charges for similar
costume. Several of the organdies worn
were commented on with admiration, and
perhaps never before have San Francisco
women taken quite so much interest in
light gauZy fabrics, for great numbers of
them have been made up during the last
Six weeks for the southern floral fetes,
some of which were really beautiful and
most fetching.
Numerous have been the luncheons of
the week. The large one given at the
University Club was pretty affair, but
those given at two of our spacious homes
deserve weiehtier edjectives.
Speaking of organdies reminds me of
simple dinner dress worn a few evenings
ago by a Gainty little matron. She
looked radiantly pretty, and when l ad-
mired her very successful frock she ex-
planned its evolution. She had a sojled
pink silk which looked quite hopeless, so
she carefully removed all the trimming
and sent 1t to the cleaners, and on its re-
turn found that it would make a good
foundation or lining. A few days later
she saw an organdy which had a creamy
ground sprayed with wild roses and green
leaves. 1t was rather expensive, being
exceptionally sheer and fine. This, richly
lncrusted with lace and insertion, now
aids in the composition of toilette
which cannot fail to be admired whenever
worn. Long chine ribbons, covered with
pink and green flowers, complete It. To
think that in California such gowns can be
worn so constantly, and then to read that
at the battle of flowers just over In Nice,
Italy, the Empress of Austria wore cane
and gown composed entirely of Persian
lamb and smart little toque to match.
To our country cousins and those not we'll
posted concerning the modes of the season
the change is not noticeable, for one must
needs examine closely to detect the slight
notifications in detail and minutiae.
Basques and open Jacket bodices are the
principal styles for outdoor wear, ami they
are made with the new sleeve, which is
really tight one with some drapery at
the shoulder.
Suggestions of Eton and Figaro Jackets
are produced in summer frocks by means
of laces and insertions, ribbons and gauzes
replacing the jaunty winter affairs of vel
vets, satins and silks but for those whose
figures can stand tichus they are the lat
est. most chic and delightfully."- pretty. be-
ing trimmed with lace, chiffon or muslin
frills, which are repeated in the skirt, and
1t should be RENE bered that "drawino
and putting of sleeves wherever the ma :
terial admits is de rigueur, and where tha t
cannot be done folds are resorted to,
turning from wrist to shoulder"
For morning wear there is nothing more
practical than navy serge, especially if a
coed heavy make is selected, for it will
stand all sorts of weathers, and can be
counted upon to last the season. In Paris
there is an absolute craze for this serge.
and the leading Paris tailor, Mauby, has
just completed costume composed of a
well-cut skirt and iaunty little Jacket.
with revers, collar and turned back cuffs
OF cream cloth, and sufficient inner lining
of the same cloth to be seen when the
jacket is open. No one could desire a
smarter morning gown but for those who
nf I,
created new checked cloth in
dark red and green. The shape is
quite new, as is also the cloth, for it is
checked in dark red and green. Black
braidlng appears upon the revers the cuffs
and upon the front seams of the skirt; it
Is introduced with excellent effect AS
usual, all the best dressed women are ap-
pearing in tailor-made gowns, and for the
moment most of the waistcoats seen are
of lace and chiffon, silk and cambria. These
are most becoming but extravagant frivol-
tiles. The substantial TattersalI ones rank
next in favor.
In London the neckties worn with the
suits are of India or of black corded silks,
but the green plaid tie is the latest A
fashionable woman appeared one morning
in the park attired in bicycling costume
of dark blue serge, completed by light
blue shirt, over which were fine hair lines
of black. Her collar was a turn down one
X
She wore black Panama hat with black
ribbon round it.
Among the materials daily being un-
cased are numerous new weaves of mohair
chine gauZes, lawns of an ecru shade
mingled with heliotrope and palette OF
lace of all kinds. A light gray Sicilian
alpaca is in great demand, merchants
finding If impossible almost to supply the
demand, and in most cases it is made ur
with white. Empire chimes and the
ombre-striped fiowered chimes are much
sought for, as are also the empire bro
cades. Silks with the seventeenth century
pompadour stripes are beautiful. Cream
silk blouse waists are frequently bright
ened with bandana handkerchief.
1t is very swell to wear grass lawn over 6
slot silk, but be sure, girls, to avoid the
cheap silk SO temptinglv displayed on every
side. 1t is much like brown paper and will
split and tear almost as readily. East much
ofthis silk was displayed last summer but
its reception was chilling in the extreme
So now we are offered shot silks in firm
excellent fabrics, sometimes shot in two
colors, sometimes in three, and it can be
had in four if desired.
Mousseline de sole is more attractive