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The Norfolk Virginian. [volume] (Norfolk, Va.) 186?-189?, 1896-03-31

Take laxative Bromo Quinine Tablets.
All druggists refund the money II 1t fails
to cure. Csc
The Norfolk Virginian. [volume] (Norfolk, Va.) 186?-189?, 1896-03-31
Hold Your Money

oo ioof ssiOHGy
In your pocket or keep it in bank till the
PORTSMOUTH Water Front Land Com
pany puts its lots ut Primers Point adj
joining the Southern Railway, on the
market.
Lots Will be on Sale April list.
This This is the most desirable invest
mont yet put on the market
Land is now being put in excellent con-
dltion and streets graded. Land high
and we'll drained. 'S
For thirty days only, prices will range
from $3.50 to $3.50 per lot.
See Real Estate Agents, or any Of the
Directors for terms, and be ready to get
in on the ground floor. ~
To investors we would say keep your
eyes open to this chance, and be ready
when the sale begins 1t is a chance you
Will not have again soon. Remember, It
adjons the Southern. and is on the River
Front. Information to agents and buy
ers given by JOHN l.. WATSON,
Secretary.
mr1S-1m 500 High St. Portsmouth,. va.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

tied Ia the front. The sleeves. of this
bodice are of a shade of fancy silk, half a
shade darker than the chiffon. 1t is soft
and rich and has acioudy pattern over it.
The outstanding collar opens in front to
reveal double frill of the lace and
chiffon.
In pale rose silk velvet is bodice for
slender matron. It is set in pleats from
the bust to the waist and shows a chemi-
settle of the finest guipure, lined with rose
pink taffetas. The short sleeves are OF the
guipure over silk. We will shortly see an
other in cut velvet; the ground Is OF
white satin and the colors are cerise,
mauvre and yellow. The back hangs sac
fashion in a pleat and the front is
fashioned also to set away from the figure
slightly and turns back with one revers,
ruched with white chiffon, while the
under bodice is of white-silk embr- idered
chiffon, with broad pale-green velvet
ribbon crossed at the back TO fasten to one
side in the front
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Neat Velvet Jacket.
)mDlpteS IT.

The third creation that excited my en-
thusiastic admiration was more conserva-
tive, but not less worthy of considera-
ton, for the smart jacket OF steel-gray vel
vet is embroidered in black with rare skill
and indisputable taste. Itis cut short and
can be worn either closed or open, but is
most effective when open, as the gray chif-
fon ruffies. edged with black lace over
gray silk, make a stylish waist. The skirt
of black satin cloth, when gracefully
raised, reveals a petticoat of gray taffeta
exactly matching the jacket. 1t has three
narrow ruffies, each edged with black
valenciennes lace and beaded with black
velvet. The jacket is lined with black
silk and the sleeves are the regular coat
sleeves, with just suspicion of fullness
They are covered with the embroidery. A
stylish high-crowned French hat of black
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

The demand for the latest designs and
models increases daily, and it is quite i'm
possible to give too much information on
such subjects, for those who cannot order
more than two or three gowns are quite as
anxious concerning their cut and style as
the matron who expects home a score of
toilets before the beginning of next month.
so I have condensed the latest information
for your benefit and describe only such
gowns and bodices a. are worthy of your
special consideration.
Redfern is sending home daily costumes
we all may well sigh for, as behind their
air of stern simplicity is an indescriDable
chic, as difficult to copy as it is to de-
scribe.
For instance. dark blue cloth dress is
traced with design in a narrow black
silk cord, and is made with q short jacket,
cut in one with epaulets, showing mar
row revers OF orange-colored velvet.
which turn back to reveal a pouched
waistcoat of caracule; open to the bust to
show a cravat OF cream -colored lace. The
combination is delightful. Of tabac-
brown cloth is fashioned a second cos
tune.
The bodice fastens over at one side with
a narrow band of Astrachan. Gold and sill
yer and jet adorn this in front, and round
the armholes and beading the fur, while
the belt and collar band are of geranium
red velvet. However, Mauby's creations,
which have caused the great sensation in
Paris and London, are certainly the der
nier cri. He makes the skirts of his tailor
gowns of the finest black cloth separate
from the silk lining, which is united at
the waist only, and for the boleros he uses
a fine cloth Off brilliant red or blue shade
which is covered by braiding, so applied
that the color can barely show through.
The result is charming and the skirt is al
ways lined according to the latest method)
with silk matching the bolero il color.
All the latest tailor sleeves are most mod
crate in size. almost but not quite like the
old coat sleeve.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Combinations of Materials.

On the very best authority 1 can assure
my readers that gowns "built of one
material mainly" are not the dominant
fashion, for have inform alton from Paris
direct that jaunty jackets, bodices and
blouses of a different fabric from the skirt
are to enjoy great vogue. Theyare COM
posed of velvet, brocade or OF some rich
silk, and, excepting when of brocade, are
usually enriched with embroidery or
beautiful hand braiding. 1 will describe
some of the latest models: An especially
attractive one is short bodice of olive
green. Brocade lace is jaboted down the
front over vest Of canary-yellow taffeta.
Encircling both neck and waist are wide
satin ribbons matching the brocade. At
the waist line in the back they terminate
In a handsome bow.
A bolero, edged with handsome mink
the air of chic. The sleeves fit closely to
just above the elbow. and then expand
into -proportioned puff. With this
CONNECTION is worn skirt of fine ecru-
colored face cloth, which has a petticoat
OF green taffeta, shading from green to
yellow; it Is an altogether delightful pet
tlcoat, and has an accordion pleated
ruf1e, which consumed just five yards of
silk, but without that petticoat half the
style OF the costume would have been
lost. Observe how particular the fair
Partisan is IN relation to details. and
therein lies her style and air, so fire.
quently declared to be indescribable by
those not having the wit to anaiyze the
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Opie Reads DipIomacu.

When Opie Read took charge of the
Little Rock Gazette many wears ago he
was bitterly attacked oy a rival paper in
the neighboring town, Camden, Ark. He
bore this abuse in silence for several
weeks, but finally printed this paragraph
at the head OF the editorial iottings":
when Jim Simmons first settled in
Camden. years ago, he was Door, truthful
and honest. He is still roor."
The next evening tall, gaunt stranger
alighted from the evening train and ac-
costed Opie, who chanced to be at the de-
pot "watchin' of the train come in"
''Do you live here?' he queried.
81 do" was the answer.
"Come and have drink then; 1 want
to talk to you.
The two men adjourned to a wet-goods
store near by, and after emptying their
glasses few times the visitor casually re-
marked:
''I've got to shoot man In this town" :"
''So?" said Read, an infection which
asked for more.
"Yep-got to do it." continued the man
hunter. Know anything about paper
here called the Gayzette?"
'Say, let's have another drink" hastily
interposed Opie. They did. and several
other drinks followed.
"Now, where's the Gayzette Officer
finally inquired the man from Camden.
II want you to go along and see that
get fair play. All you've got to do is to
point out the coyote that edits it, and
stand back out of range"
Together they started uptown toward
the newspaper Office. The visitor never
reached it; there were too many saloons
along the route. And, strangest of all,
Opie several times lost his bearings and
took his belligerent protege through un-
necessary detours and past more grog-
shops than the Camden editor ever had
seen before. An hour later the man who
wanted gore was sleeping off an alcoholic
trance in garbage-box in an alley. He
had lost his gun and the editor of the
Gazette had secured a new paper weight.
1t is unnecessary to add, perhaps, that
Opie was not shot that night. 1t is no
disparagement to him, however, to admit
that he was about half shot.-Chicago
Times-Herald.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
For a Visiting Costume.

An elegant visiting costume has skirt
OF a violet and black silk canvas and a
double breasted bodice of violet velvet
fastened by four most beautifully enam-
eled gold-mounted buttons and bordered
OF the broad revers by light-toned mink
fur. The revers are turned back so as to
show vest of exquisite point d'Angle-
terre.
Princess dresses are daily gaining in
favor, and many leave the great Dress
makers hands now daily, and one of the
latest is made in very light shade of
gray satin cloth, and has around the hem
very broad band of fine Irish lace inser-
ton, bordered on either side with a hem
of black velvet, which in its turn is edged
with a narrow band of marten. At the
neck there is a square of deep red velvet
studded with jewels, and over this, which
can be worn or dispensed with at will, is a
bolero of novel detail, square at the front
and the back, with epaulets, and
trimmed with black velvet and the Irish
lace to match the hem of the skirt.
Charming will one of fashions leaders
look in gown of violet vicuna dark and
rich in tone. The seams of the skirt are
trimmed with four rows of black velvet
baby ribbon, and the bolero is braided on
either side and has vest embroidered in
green, pink, blue and purple harmoni-
ously blended, and the waistcoat is made e
of shirred velvet in shade of dull water
green.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
The Meaning of Daeo.

One day last week man shouted 'Dago"
at party of men working on the streets
and Immediately there was trouble, an
Italian worker in the group taking the
word as an epithet applied exclusively to
himself. Thirty or forty years ago, the
same cry would have provoked melee
in which Scandinavian, German and sea-
men of other nationalities would have
mingled. In those days ''dago" was
term synonymous with the Objectionable
rat" or one who takes the place of
rience. STILL further back. in the Begin
ming of the century, .dago' meant small
shopkeepers, "hum boat people, who
supply sailors with fruits, bread, butter
and other articles.-Pittsburg Dispatch.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
MEMS
COWES JACKETS.
GLOVES HND TIES

Several smartly dressed men have re-
Gently ordered suits of brown tweed, run
with thread of green, which have proved
highly satisfactory. Him recently an
nounced:
II have seen but few novelties in gloves,
but can mention one which may be used
for afternoon dress. 1t is of thick chev.
rette, of about the consistency of driv-
ing glove. The color is pure white, and it
has certain style, but would really pre-
fer the brown or tan. The undressed kid
or Suede is as popular as ever, vet think
that there will be some change by the
Horse Show. l hear that tnen many men
are going to try to do away with even
ing dress at night sessions of that func-
tion. They aIlege that it is ou of place
alta horse show. 1 disagree with them, but
think that there should be no evening
performance. A man has but one dress
after candlelight-I am going back to the
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Hpt Lawns.

The accompanying illustrations are from
Liberty's. The standing models gown is
made of green velvet hanging from the
shoulders loosely to reveal front of
lighter green tinged with gray. It is
caught just below the bust with laced
belt OF green, traced with green beads,
while it is shocked at the neck with
another shade of green silk; the sleeves
are rucked to the wrist, and frills of the
velvet, lined with green soft satin, fall
over the shoulders, the long yoke-like col
lar, which is ruched with the satin, being
also embroidered with the green beads.
OF creamy white Bengal satin is the even
ing gown illustrated, with an embroidery
of gold beads, amber-hued beads and
pale green beads. There is strong sug-
gestion of the medieval about the shape of
this, the suggestion being further carried
out by the jeweled girdle and pendant ret
icule, while the sleeves, with their short
puffs and long bells, reaching almost to
the knees, are lined with the faintest
green.
A most stylish dress has been created
from a novelty canvas. 1t is bright violet
in shade and it's bodice is of thick
basket-work silk of lighter violet color,
ana is covered with little groups of roses
which are on a white ground. 1t is full
to the waist at the back, with a tabled
basque piped with violet velvet. Violet
velvet also comprises the waistcoat, with
a chiffon and lace cravat falling to the
bust, and violet frills border the front of
the bodice, while straps of violet velvet
buckled with jet extend from the armhole
to the bust
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

brilliant-hued geranium Sicilian silk
is employed for yet another, the yoke
being covered with an unusually good
lace; over the shoulders epaulettes are
formed of black satin loops; they also
trim the front and compose the basque
below the waist.
morning blouse, made of green silk,
bound with velvet and fastening with
velvet buttons, has the fullness so ar
ranged as to open over the embroidery
which is executed in gold-plaided brown
silks. Round the waist the silk is carried
in soft folds and the sleeves are ruffled at
the top. The collar is high and plated
and flares round the throat style becom-
ing only to very long thin necks.
In London lea jackets are declared to be
indispensable, and one just noted at a
fashionable house was of white satin, COW
cred with gold-spangled tuIle and had at
intervals large jet stars EN- broidered on it.
The full back bodice and front were ad-
mirably cut. The sleeves barely reachet
the waist and were rather full
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Featheped TyPants of Wood and Sky and Stream

The article on "a Butcher in Feathers"
which recently appeared in THE CALL,
gave one view of a common Californian
bird, and a view little likely to endear him
to the casual observer.
The butcher bird is not, in reality, the
coId-blooded assassin that many writers
have made him out to be. Like all other
creatures OF wood and sky and stream, he
is absorbed in the common struggle for
existence. and really does more good than
evil in the way OF keeping down the con-
suming hordes of small life that would
otherwise prove serious detriment to
the farmers crops. The bird derives his
name, not, as is generally assumed, from
a murderous and wanton disposition, but
from his habit of HANGING his victims
upon convenient thorns, twigs and
hooked branches. His food consists prin-
cipally of mice, the larger insects, small
snakes and slugs, and. while he does at
times attack other birds, his enmity for
his own kind seems largely directed to-
ward the English sparrow. The butcher
bird belongs TO the shrike family. He
may be readily recognized by his colors,
sort of bluish-gray above, with black wings
and tail, the latter being tipped with
black, and having white patch at the
base, from which he has gained his other
name of uninterrupted shrike" He has
characteristic fight, near the ground,
propelling himself straight forward with
rapid fiapping OFT wings until near
home, when he makes a sort of quick. up
ward spring, and climb bs the air to his in
tended perch.
Those who know him only as fierce,
SAM uinary feathered assassin may be sur
prised to learn that in the early SPRING
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

time, when mating is in order, the butcher.
bird develops musical talents of no mean
sort. Perched nigh in some tall tree, he
will sing by the hour to his ladylove, in
clear musical notes, something like the
song of the catbird of the Eastern woods
John Burroughs declares that his voice is
that OF savage, strldent and disagree
able, but the genial naturalist has, like
most OF US, small love for the shrike
whose song has been admired of many
poets. Even Thoreau. that forest seer
whose ear was so sensitive to every dis
cordant note, speaks of the shrike with
needless and unfrozen melody, bringing
sum mer back again.
Out here in this gopher and ground
squirrel infested country, the butcher-bir
is really worth protecting. He makes
meal now and then off small bird,
but oftener the denizens of the ground
are his prey. John Muir told me, some
time ago, of seeing a butcher bird fol-
low young ground squirrel into its
hole. Mr.. Muir watched in amazement to
see what the proceedings meant and
presently saw the bird reappear, driving
before him half dozen young ground
squirrels, which he dispatched and then
carried off one at time. Doubtless he
impaled them somewhere, to return for
them when his family demanded fresh
meat. for the bushes whereon he hangs
his spoils are to him storehouses for
future need.
For all | is such fierce hunter, so that
one might suppose him able wellnigh to
exterminate the whole bird tribe were he
so minded, the shrike. as compared with
other birds, is comparatively rare. AL.
though always keeping sharp eye out for
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

ligent as they are, recognized that fenca
as boundary-line, yet on no other
hypothesis can account for their evident
satisfaction with the work they had done
and the immediate cessation OF hos
tilities.
The Arkansas fycatcher, called ont
here the 'bee Bird" and sometimes =,
though wrongly. the "bee martin is or
1IheI quarreisome and destructive bird.
ne uoes vast amount of mischief among
'he Dees' ana should be driven out OF the
neigh oorhood of hives, but he is usefnl
ieilo" In ms way, inasmuch as, when he
cannot get bees, he destroys great 1.um-
oers OF otner and noxious insects. Tho
nycatcners are very noisy and seem to be
ai"ays nghtlng, circumstance of which
certain Oh the smaller and more inoffan-
siVe oirds take advantage by building in
the vicinity OF fycatcher's nest trnstin.
10 MS pugnacity 10 keep awav Ali dan,sr
Gus lntruders. Most birds. however, d;s
ike constant wrangling, and avoid tho
great nycatcher's neighborhood nnless
nuntlng for trouble, as even birds sor,a-
times seem to be. This love of tbe b;rds
ior peace is the secret of the Enplish sn.r
row success in getting the exclusive
occupancy of any locality which it in
vaoes. SO far as strength and courage 90
one robin is the equal of two sparrows
!. uus the robin gets tired of perpetual wrane.
ing and takes himself off rather than be-
come party to it. His WINGS
are brown, with grayish marsins.
ms tail black and slightly forked. His
disposition, however, is chara acteristic Of
MS Tribe, and he maintains the reputation
tnat ne has won for the clan, the family
name of Tyrannus. UJ
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Us to the Debutante.

Rather odd is debutante's bodice made
of the new brocaded ribbons in green and
white. They are stretched across the
figure up to the top of the arms, and it
reveals corselet, basque and chemisette of
black chiffon richly incrusted with jewels.
Useful on many occasions is bodice
having yoke of tucked black satin and a
deep. quantity shaped collar of chine
patterned velvet with lnfnitesimai stripes.
The sleeves are entirely made of the velvet,
and are trimmed with a border of mink !;
it likewise edges the collar, which rests on
thick frill of lace, lace again appearing
inside the high neckb band.
Quite elaborate is theater bodice of
aprle-green MORE, covered with desig n
in white. The yoke of white satin is almost
concealed by an incrustation OF pearl and
gold beads. The bodice is made of the
moire.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

was presented in 1852, has not been cor
rectly staged of late years. She declares
that it was the wish of the late Alexander
Dumas that the play should be mounted
in the costumes of the time in which the
Dame aux Camelias" first fronted the
footlights. As result Mile. Saylor makes
her appearance in the first act with q
truly marvellous pink and green poke
bonnet, and Nine. Grandet is an amusing
figure in organdy muslin, an antiquated
shawl and corkscrew curls.
Sarah's robe d'opera excited the en-
thusiastic admiration of all the women in
the audience. 1t was composed of pink
silk gauze with Fashioned flounces, at
tached with pink feathers frosted with
diamonds. The mantle worn with this
lovely dress was kind of stole of yellow
satin with large sleeves of zibeline.
The gown worn by her in the country is
delightful. being of watered velvet of the
lightest tone of Nile green, shaded with
silver, and over this is thrown a mantelet
of pink gauze. This manteiet, / assure
you, will enjoy a great vogue, as it is
strikingly becoming, especially to women
of Bernhardt's style of figure. In the
fourth act her balldress of exquisite lace
spangled with gold is caught mp with
great bunches of white cameliias, and in
the death scene long, trailing robe of In
dia muslin is graceful and effective.
Sarah never wearies of telling every one
who asks that Doucet originated all her
costumes and she is almost equally
pleased with the sensation created by the
remarkable bonnets worn throughout.
One is in Italian straw, trimmed with
waving branches of lilac and Marechai
Mel roses, with bonnet strings of lowered
taffetas made sixty years ago. Another
"cabriolet" in heliotrope velvet with a
lopohore feather and heliotrope bow is,
strange to say, very fetching. Naturally
these extraordinary bonnets. which are
asserted to be reproductions from en-
cravings and portraits of that period, will
affect the fashions, and unique, odd
chapeaux will be the mode.
The last time Nine. Bernhardt was seen
| on the Bois she wore strange structure
on her head, which had, apparently, seven
! brims. AS usual, her garments clung
| about her, and her gown had a funny
little train. MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Some Queer Superstitions.

In Irel and a belt of a woman's hair is
placed about child to keep harm away.
and garlic, salt. bread and steak are put
into the cradle of newborn baby in Hol-
land. Roumanlan mothers tie red rib
bons around the ankles of their children
to preserve them from harm, while Es-
thonian mothers attach bits of asafetida
to the necks of their offspring.
Welsh mothers put pair of tongs or a
knife in the cradle to insure the safety OF
their children. The knife Is also used
for the same purpose In some parts of
England. Among Vosges peasants chill
dren born at the new moon are sup
posed to have tongues better hung than
others, while those born at the last quar-
ter better reasoning powers. A daug h ter
born during the waxing moon is always
precocious At the birth of a child in
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01

Lower Brittany the neighboring women
lake it in charge, wash it, crack its joints
and rub its head with oil to solder the
Uranium bones. IL is then wrapped in
hight bundle and its lips are anointed with
brandy to make it full Breton.
Inc Grecian mother before putting her
child in its cradle turns three times around
before the fire while singing her favorite
song to ward off evil spirits. The Turkish
mother loads her child with amulets as
soon as IL Is born, and small bit OF mud,
steepeo In hot water prepared by previous
charms, Is stuck on its forehead. In
spain the infants face is swept with q
pine tree bough to bring good luck.
The San Francisco call., 1896-11-01
Bodices of Chiffon Lace.

Several of the evening bodices sent home
during the past week reflect credit on the
skillful designers, whose work certainly
compares favorably with any. done in New
York. One dainty evening bodice is of
hghtest yellow chiffon. with an abbrevi-
ated bolero of pale-yellow velvet, en-
broidered in jet, Jet ornaments being
crossed at the bust and brought into the
waist. The basque is very full ana made
OF the chiffon, which has the appearance
of having been sprinkled with jet.
Ivory chiffon and black-thread lace
enter into the composition of bodice
evolved for bride who fully understands
how well she looks in black and white