The San Francisco call., 1896-02-09

Luke's, the informal Preside hop,
the delightful private dance for
young people, given at that most hos
uitable home on one of the corners of
Laguna and California streets, and the
very enjoyable euchre party Friday even
ing on Washington street, near Franklin.
The coming days, preceding Ash Wednes-
6ay, will be more than full of engage
ments of a most delightful character; in
deed, many are wishing that there were
more than seven days in a week. 1t is
really q pity that so much is always
crowded into the last of the season. If
people would only entertain more inform
ally there would not be many complaints
about dullness, though indeed this
seasons debutantes have had gay winter,
for numerous have been the quiet
luncheons, dinners and teas. which have
been far more appreciated than the great
crushes. Not many years ago the buds
were supposed to care for nothing but
dancing and lunch parties, now not a few
of even the youngest of them confess
that theV like dinner parties quite
as well. AS a result 1 have heard
of several dinners given exclusively to
young people, at which several of the
bellies and beaux proved themselves clever,
in TACT, almost brilliant, conversationists.
Some writers maintain that converse
tion Is becoming lost art, and that most
people indulge in monologues if they exert
themselves at all. This is bad state of
affairs, for every one appreciates bright
man or woman, and the brilliant story
teller's name heads many dinner list.
Great has been my surprise on more than
one occasion on being expected to listen to
long dissertations concerning the children's s
illnesses, their mischievous tendencies and
the inferiority of servants by hostesses
who, owing to many advantages, should
be brilliant women intellectually. How
ever, all sorts and kinds of people enter
into the composition of what is known as
society, but those who have the ability
should endeavor to make themselves
agreeable to entertaining on all occasions.
Now and then one hears of case where
some one tries to appear witty at the eX
pense of a guest who is either presumably
too dull to comprehend the illusions or
too well-bred to resent them publicly. Such
persons should be tabooed socially until
they can obtain at least the necessary
veneer.
The first benefit concert o. the Saturday
Morning Orchestra will take place on the
18th inst, and it promises to be social
success, as it will be under the patronage
of several of our most prominent citizens.
Many predict that the Mardi Gras ball
will be poorly attended by dancing men,
as by the time ticket is purchased and the
carriage and flowers paid for there is not
much left of $40, and nowadays even such
small sums are worthy of consideration.
The favors at the recent cotillon remind
one of some favors lately given East which
were unique, consisting OF ''curb-chain"
bracelets, odd silver perfume bottles, sill
ver-embossed cigar boxes, water-color
drawings, dolls (richly attired in national
costumes), cycling hose and golf caps.
1t is needless to say that our society
women are on most occasions beautifully
gowned, and for the moment dinner and
dancing gowns are being principally dis
cussed, as at this date no one is having
visiting gowns made up, for all too soon
must begin the preparation for spring and
summer. Indeed, the seasons fly past
with alarming rapidity.
Most women will welcome with delight
the news that the predicted diminutlon in
the width of our skirts is now an estab-
lished fact and at the present moment
skirt five yards wide is the limit of good
taste IN Paris, many not exceeding four,
and all cores are cut on the straight
of the material, after Doucets beautiful
model. Now the line is straight and trim,
the folds stand "heel to heel, as it were"
Our friends who belong to the smart set
East have been paying their calls and
going to coming-out teas in gowns of
white face cloth fine as satin.
Let me describe a model gown of this
fabric. The skirt has five godets and has
a lace Jet design worked on the bottom
The lining is of yellow silk with a ripping
stripe of white satin. A corded ruf1e COM
pletes it. The bodice is seamless and
round, of white cloth, slightly blouse, and
girded with white satin ribbon fastened by
two huge Strass ornaments-a copy of old
buttons, l dare say. From the collar
band in front fall two white cloth tabs,
appliqued in yellow velvet, wonderfully
pretty design touched up here and there
with fine jet. The ends are scalloped
with jet and the sides are trimmed
with narrow sable. They hang to within
an inch or two of tie brilliant girdle
clasps. White cloth gigot sleeves ap-
pliqued in velvet to match, but in design
quite different, with Jet finish on the
velvet edges. The wrists are bordered
with sable and the ensemble is a modern
lied Venetian bodice and most charming"
A yellow velvet rolling collar with tufts of
yellow lace under the ears and a white
satin ribbon tying in frisky bow in
back completes an exceedingly chic and
most eXtravagant costume, which, of
course. can only be worn in ones own
perfectly appointed carriage l have no
expectation OF seeing any such costumes
here, but / quoted the elaborated descrip-
zion as it abounds in good suggestions.
a ball gown of rare charm is thus de-
scribed: at was of red satin, geranium
red-a beautiful evening color. The skirt
Doucet, perfectly plain, lined with red
taffeta glace. Red will not stand skilt
lining in contrast. 1t was draped with
tulle matching exactly. but very scantily
draped as la mode directs, and finished at
the bottom by full tulle ruching. The
decollete bodice was slightly pointed,
tight fitting, with bias douts and laced in
the back. The decolletage was finished by
an empire bertha of tulle, which consists
of several folds OF tulle in several thick
nesses draped across the bust and caught
up in the center. Very short sleeves with
tulle wings. small affairs, wired, and
punches of red poppies and foliage fastened
to the shoulders.
Doubtless this winter will see the last of
the prettv Iouis XIV and XVI Jackets as