davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
in scattered instances and that threatens
soon to sway all sleeves.

In scattered instances and that threatens
soon to sway all sleeves.
The evening gowns at present being worn
at the best theaters have, in the majority
of cases, short puff sleeves, modelled after
those worn during the drectoire PERIOD and
not a great deal larger.
MISS NELSON'S SLEEVES.
In THE Notorious Mrs Ebbsmith," Miss
Nelson wears pair of sleeves that may be
said to have made the hit of the piece.
They form part of a black spangled gauze
gown, such as the stage always associates
with wickedness, and are revelation as to
what simple draping may do for a beautiful
arm.
The bodice of this gown is very decolete
back and front and is kept on the shoulders
by narrow spanSled band.
Another similar to it encircles the bare
arm Just below the elbow like a bracelet.
and through this underneath, goes a long
SCARF OF the spangled gauze, looping loosely
between the bracelet band and the armhole
where II is sewed in. and hanging from the
elbow in long flowing end
The effect is bizarre, Of course, but in
Miss Nelson's case 1t is extremely becoming.
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

more than pair Of bracelet bands above the
elbow, OF geranium pink velvet, and to the
outside Of which was tied big white tulle
bow folded into butterfly wings At the
inside these were held on the arm by a band
three inches wide Of the pink velvet that
extended from the armhole.
With street sleeves point for congratu-
lation Is that the hideous ''melon" affairs,
introduced at the first OF the season, have
been banished to the limbo OF modsh dis
approval. Those with the very short pun
and long cum portion are also not SO much
seen, the cid favcrlte gigot, remodeled, having
almost entirely taken the place of both.
The lower portion of these is now cut
with an inside and an outside seam, instead
OF In one, as formerly. and the pun has
mere bias hang, being longer at the outer
line than the inner one
yhe folds droop heavily, showing there is
no stinening, and In every instance there
Is distinct evidence that much less cloth is
being used. Sleeves OF indoor bodces run
much toward long limp puffs that finish Just
below the elbow in wide cuff band.
Methods OF trimming these vary according TO
taste. but an effective fancy is TO have wide
stripe extending down the outside OF the
pun, OF lace, velvet or embroidery.
MIXED EFFECT.
serge street gown recently sported by a
smart woman had stunning sleeve The
color was one OF the strange, bright blues, at
present In favor. and with the heavy serge
WAS combined wonderful brocaded 81 k In
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

mon army tent, and then, when the plague OF
the east, cholera, was pronounced epidemic
| among the regiments, she settled down to
nurse her charges through it. 1t was only
to be expected that wind of these plucky
doings should reach England and in the
course OF her seven years Of African
duty Miss Gray was formally presented
with four decorations. These are the Zulu
and Egyptian war medals, the Egyptian cross
and the royal red cross, pretty much all the
hcnors In the way OF pretty trinkets skill
ful, courageous hospital nurse can expect to
gain. With this extraordinary record to her
credit Miss Gray. who is Q, pretty spinster on
when her order from the, war office ar
rived, to report on board the Coromandel
with two skillful undernurses, There she
was installed in quarters of, her own, put in
absolute. control Of the Admirably fitted
hospital ward, of the row OF patent padded
berths where delirious patients are to be
placed and In full authority over a competent
corps of trained male nurses. 4iAfter all this
charge is about the highest she has been
required to assume, for the men who have
been fighting the willy Ashantis In the in
terror are more rapidly stricken down by the
seventies OF the climate and hardships they
must endure than by weapons in the hands
or the rapidly capitulating african savages,
and are consequently more difficult to coax
back to health and fighting trim But in
the army hospital ward this able nurse feels
only In her element. She regrets the gov
ernment never sent her Afrltaward at the
time Of the first Boer war and says that in
careful, clever nursing women can do as
much to win victories for their country as IL
they took part in actual conflicts and as
many hazards with genuine endurance and
precious bravery can be shown in following
the flag from the nursing tents as in
shouldering rifle with the fighting corps.
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
PROMOTING FAMILIES.
Significant Features OF the FrencI
Income Tax Lnw.

Significant Features of the French
Income Tax L1w.
Harold Frederic cables to the New York
Times that the first genuine test of the
stability of the Bourgeois ministry in France
will come on the income tax proposal in the
annual budget. The scheme differs in a re-
markable way from all previous attempts
to apply a graduated scale to income taxa
ton in that 1t separates into different classes
each individual income. Thus, man with
$4,000 a year pays per cent on $4,000, 4
per cent on $4,000, 3 per cent on $4,000, 2
per cent on $1,000, l per cent on $500 and
the remaining sum of $500 is to be exempt.
To this extraordinary complication is added
the intricacy Of system by which deduc-
tions are to be made on account of the num-
ber Of children a man has. which, in the
case of large family, might wipe off half
OF his taxation.
This putting of premium on population
is only too excusable in France, where peo-
pie look forward with positive dread to the
results of the quinquennial census in the
coming spring, but II makes the budget
easier for the opponents Of the tax to assail
Their campaign is to be based broadly on
the fact that the proposed change, by its
concurrent abolition of the house tax, will
relieve of all taxation $500, 900 present tax
payers, reduce the taxes now collected from
another million and put on the shoulders of
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
CLEVELAND MoFFET.
THE ART of WALKING WELL.
To DO 1t Gracefully Calls for Careful
Training.

Have you ever noticed how few women
walk well? Nowadays, when the streets are
full Of all sorts and conditions of women,
you have a good chance to watch the varie-
ties of gait. Very few walk gracefully,
says the Philadelphia Ledger. One gives
you the idea her feet are too heavy, 80 un-
elastic is her tread; another walks as IL she
is pursued. Yet another walks as II every
step would jolt her to pieces, and there are
some students of Delsarte who are thinking
all the time just how they must do 1t. and
the result is an affectation worse than any
awkwardness. French women have a special
style OF walking, pretty enough In its way,
and which makes their dresses hang better
than they do in America. They throw their
whole bodies forward, keeping them quite
erect all the while. SO that a line dropped
from the chin would touch the bosom and
then fall sheer to the toes. The difference
Is 80 marked that American women are
known at once In Paris Most of the girls
who stay long enough In Paris, however,
ADAPT themselves to the French manner.
English girls have a distinctive walk. and
such walk! They have a stride which is
Detter adapted to flowing Greek draperes
than to gored skirts. and the result moves
10 amazement rather than to admiration.
walking is an art that deserves to be cul-
tivated, especially In these athletic days
In the old-fashioned novel the aesthetic
heroine never walked. She always "moved'
or "hoated airily" or "glded."
IL Is strange that woman doesn't realize
that II is her mission TO be graceful. We
cannot all be pretty; but the charm OF
grace. even more potent than that Of
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
Feminine Notes.

Poet Lore is edited and published by two
women, Miss Clarke and Miss Porter
The Crown Princess Stephanie Of Austria
Is mountain climber, talented artist, and
shows more or less skill in writing.
The little town of Manellus, Mich, has
two women on the school board woman
undertaken and a woman barber.
Miss Agnes Zimmerman has completed
the edition Of Schumann's pianoforte works,
upon which she has been engaged for the
last twelve years.
Mary A. Wisby. who was a schoolmate OF
General Grant, died in Seattle recently at
the residence Of her daughter. Mrs. Jacob
Miller. She was over SO years old.
Princess Marie, wife of Prince Waldemar
OF Denmark, has just startled her relatives
by having her photograph taken in fire.
mans uniform, helmet and ALL
Nine Jeanne Hugo the granddaughter of
Victor Hugo, who was recently divorced
from her husband, Alphonse Daudets son, is
about to marry young doctor Of Paris.
Mrs. Oliphant is out with a vigorous de-
nunciation OF Hardys latest novel, Grant
Aliens recent work, and all the productions
OF what she calls the anti-marriage league.
Rose Hartwick Thorpe, who wrote Cur
few Must Not Ring Tonight" lives In San
Diego county. California. Her famous poem
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

changing greens anl puppies. The new
mutton leg was the model Of the sleeve, which
was made OF tie serge, slashed openings
being made in the lower portion TO show an
undersleeve of the brocade.
Apropos OF this model sleeve there was
very dainty little pin worn with the bodice
that is Just now the thing with up-to-date
maids and smart young NATIONS.
This was a brooch. made OF big round
topaz cut with the smooth cabochon surface
and set deep in narrow gypsy setting OF
very yellow gold
These charming little brooches make very
stylish finish to the throat of bodice, end
compared to other ornaments now being
worn, their expense is a mere ,ritle
NINA FITCH,
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

Again. French chanteuse, who lately en-
raptured and astonished New York, wore no
sleeves at all. and then. also. charming
arm got the benefit of the innovation.
few Of the newest evening gowns shown
by the smart dressmakers are also without
sleeves, graceful little fall of lace or arti-
hciai flowers at the shoulder taking their
place. Even where there are sleeves there
is an evident desire to show as much of a
pretty arm as possible.
10 accomplish this the bodice is often
made very low at the shoulders, or is held
on only with strap, the short pun sleeve
hanging away below on the arm.
DECORATING SLEEVES.
"A charming short sleeve recently worn by
Mrs. John Jacob Astor at the opera had the
upper inside OF the pun cut away in a big
haif moon to show very white and pretty
arm, indeed.
Another sleeve seen at the opera was as
simple as effective. The corsage Of this
was OF white satin but the sleeves were no
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
A SOLDIER NURSE.
Deserved Rewards nnd New HonOrs
for an English WOnian. -
ceives.

Deserved Rewards and New Honors
for an English WOmnn. .-
Miss j. A. Gray is an English woman with
an unusual record as hospital nurse and
four handsome decorations to bear witness
to- some of her gallant athievsments. At
home, that is in London, she occupies the
position of experimenting nurse of :he COLI
stream Guards hospital, but when the English
government decided to fit up the steamer
Coromandel as floating hospital, to cruise
along the Gold coast and receive sick soldiers
from the regiments fighting down in Ashanti,
Miss Gray was selected to- take full charge
of all the nursing facilities. Her appoint
ment was decided upon not Only. because of
her especial cleverness as experimenting
nurse, but owing to her exceptional record
on various occasions and dangerous relief
expeditions. In 1879, when the Zulu war
broke out, she was, in military form, ordered
to the front, and promptly obeyed. There
she stayed through the war and In 1882 sailed
again for Africa, this time to nurse the men
through the contest in Egypt. Four years
in all were spent in this last expedition to
Africa, for at the end she was sent up the
Nile in the Gordon relief boats to Wady
Halfa at the second cataract. Twelve
months of this period she lived under a COM
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
SLEEVES AND SKIRTS.
Some Radical Changes shown In the
Surinn

spring styles.
NEW YORK, Feb. eff the present ten
dencics Of modes may be regarded ms indca-
tons Of what the future will bring forth,
then spring sleeves will run tc actual small
ness and skirts be wider than ever
tcagown sleeve named for Miss Olga
Nethersole. the English actress, wrinkles
over the arms like loose glove and is 90
long that it covers the hand to the knuciles.
AT the outside seam Of this a frill OF lace
or plated chiffon is inserted, TO hang and
hutter like the fringe Of an Indians leggn
The wrist portion is bell shaped, which Is
capital arrangement for Disgusting a too
thin hand. and the floating lace at the outside
seam takes away from the severity OF the
sleeves snuGnezs.
But speaking Of actresses. Il is really to
their influence we owe tie reform now shown
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

ems the feelings. You may not think to-
hacco hurts you but how are You ever 60
ing to tell how much better, YOU would
feel without II unless you follow the adj
vice of Postmaster Holbrook:
CURED ~ CASES Ol'T or 80.
HOLBROOk, New, June 1S
Conference.-The effects OF No To-Bac are truly
wonderful. | had used tobacco FOR forty-thrce
years, pound plug week. used two boxes
of Nu-To-Bnc and have had no desire for to-
bacc, since. | gave two boxes OF No-'ro- l,ac to
a named West. who had used tobacco for
forty-seyen years, and two boxes TO Mr.. White
man. and neither Of them have used tobacco
since and say they have no desire Tor II. over
fifty that know OF have used No-To-rac
through my influence, and l only know OF one
case where II did not cure, and then II was the
fault of the patient
I was CA years old last week. have gained
seventeen pounds in flesh since quit the use OF
'Nbacco. You this letter, or amy part
+ H., as YOU wish Yours respectfully.
G. Il, HOLBROOK, Il. NJ.
You say II is wonderful Indeed, II is.
! to.To-Bac cured over 100000 cases just as
Dad. You can be made well ana strong by
NoTo- Bac Your own druggist guarantees
cure. Get our booklet, Don't Tobacco
Spit and Smoke Your Life Away" written
guarantee of cure and free sample, mailed
for the asking. Address, The Sterling REM
,dy Co., Chicago or New York.
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

beauty can be acquired by any. one who will
take the trouble. Why should any woman
be willing to make herself ridituloue? II
you want TO walk well, hold yourself erect.
don't throw your shoulders back though
you have probably often heard that piece
OF erroneous advice. Just keep them in a
first. like a dancing master, but Try TO make
both heel and ball OF the foot touch the
ground at once. Hold your body firmly,
your head up, your chin in, and walk a
preat deal with these things In. mind.
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
YALE
HAIR
TONIC
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:
1t affords me great pleasure to call the atten-
tion OF the public to Yale's Excelsior Hair Tonic,
which Is the first and only remedy known to
chemistry which positively turns gray hair back
to its original color without dye It has gone on
chemist-has made this most valuable of all
chemical discoveries; Nine; Yale personally en-
dorses its action and gives the public her solemn
guarantee that II has been tested in every con-
eeiyable way and has proved Itself to be the
ING Immediately and creates a luxurious growth
It contains no injurious ingredient Physicians
sticky or greasy; on the contrary. 1t makes the
mar mar soit, youthIui nuny ana Keeps u IN curl.
streaked gray. entirely gray and with BALD
HEADS, 1t Is specifically recommended.
All druggists sell il II. Price, sI.oO.
II anybody offers substitute. shun them.
NINE NJ. YALE, Health and Complexion
Specialist, Yale Temple OF Beauty. l46 State
Street. Chicago.
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
Fashion Notes.

Marie Antoinette modes will prevail next
summer.
Gray gowns are being ordered for spring
wear.
Engagement cups and saucers in Delft
ware are new.
The Trllby bouquet is one OF white lilies
and VIII be much in vogue at Easter
Not few bridesmaids carry, in addition to
the Indispensable bouquet, muffs made en-
tirely Of flowers
Bees, lizards and dragon nfes as natural as
life will be seen nesting amid flowers and
foliage on our summer hats.
Armure croquette Is exhibited among new
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
SOME FRENCH SLEEVES.

| the remaining well-off half million the bur-
den of not only making good this huge def
cit, but of providing an! extra sum Of
$1,20o,OOO above what the treasury now re-
ceiyes ... ..g
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09
TOBACCO. TWISTED NERVES.
The Unavoidable Result of the
Continued Use of Tobacco.
lis There u Sure, Easy md Quick Why
of Obtaining Permanent Relief
from the Hnbitf

Millions Of men
think they need stim.
ulants, because their
nerves are set on fire
by tobacco. The per-
sistent abuse to
which the tobacco
user subjects his
nerves cannot possi-
bly, fail to make weak
the strongest man.
Chewing aud smok-
ing destroy manhood
ana nerve powcr.
What YOU call a hab-
II is n nervousdisease.
Tobacco In the ma
iOritN of seS dead
Omaha daily bee., 1896-02-09

To insure the perfect hang OF the skirt
it is still necessary to wear either moreen
petticoat beneath the silk lined dress skirt
or to line 1t, at least at the lower portion,
with genuine horse hair cloth to give II the
requisite support without stiffness. which is
otherwise unobtainable. These Innings are
very, pliable and comparatively light, pro-
tecting the silk lining as well as the dress
material itself, and imparting stylish
cachet to the entire toilet. Although severe
in outline the skirt is as much OF test
Of the makers art as the most elaborate
bodice. II is a success only when made by a
professional. Some OF the newest models are
trim med, but as many, and more. are not.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08

Eugen Sandow says he was puny
lad and was inspired when a boy to inn
prove himself physically by a sight Of
the works Of sculpture in the art CALLER
les at Rome. He advises only simple ex-
ercises like dumbbell practice, walking
and bicycle riding. He does not think
much is to be gained by the use of hori-
zontal bars or the usual gymnasium APP
pliances, but advocates plenty of fresh
air and cold baths. Do not use too large
dUmbbolls and exercise regularly. "lf
women also would take more outdoor
exercise, there would be fewer nervous
complaints. The dress Of the average
woman is most harmful" he says. He
eats anything in moderation and drinks
nothing strong beyond an occasional
glass of beer or light wine and says that
almost any man can make himself
strong and vigorous by simple dumbbell
exercises and regular and temperate
habits Of life.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
HOW TO STAIN.

Furniture Tints of All CoIors Now FASH
ionabIs.
Formerly stains were confined to the
colors nearly resembling natural woods,
but of late all colors are used.
The most fashionable stain at present
for furniture is green-not sage green,
but good, old fashioned regular green
which, when rubbed well into the pores
of the wood and then polished, is really
beautiful. The two transparent colors,
prussian blue and raw sienna, make,
when mixed together, an excellent
green, or if brighter tint Is desired
gamboge and prussian blue. A very lit
tie of the latter goes great way. In
staining it should be borne in mind that
it is not paint, but stain, and that a
very little should he used, a pound be-
ing sufficient to stain whole set Of fur
niture.
To get good color the wood must be
light. Oak, yellow or white pine, ma
pie, any of these IL suitable, and the
more grained the better, the moire eff
feet of birdseye maple, the heavy mark
ings Of oak and the picturesque knot so
often seen in yellow pine all coming out
particularly we'll through the translu-
cent color.
By sending a special order to the manu-
facturers it is easy to get sets of furniture
without paint or varnish, but if it is an
old piece that is to be renovated it must
be thoroughly scraped. After staining, q
coat of hard oil finish may be applied
as a filler, and then, after it is dry, il
should be rubbed all over with the pre-
pared beeswax that comes in cans for
floors and then rubbed with flannel
cloth until it is quite shiny and bright.
After the wax is rubbed on it should be
allowed to harden before polishing il.
PIussian blue alone makes very pretty
peacock blue stain, raw sienna yellow
or orange, according to the amount Of
color used, crimson lake lovely red,
and burned sienna an almost exact imi-
tation of new mahogany. All these are
what are called transparent colors and
are, therefore, especially adapted for
stains. But even Opaque colors, if put ON
thin enough to show the grain of the
wood, produce sometimes very pretty eff
fects. White on certain woods has a
milky, opalesque coloring that is very
harmonious with delicate chintzes.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08

Quoth thepreacher to the editor;
you'll Cross the river wide;
But welcome warm awaits you
On the tranquil other side"
Then gasped the dying editor,
A candidate for bliss
"Do you think It's any warmer
On the other side than thisl"
The Ercnjng BulIetin, 70 cents
ncr 1nnntL
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
Lucky Women.

81 do so envy Mary Jasmyn," said
the hostess in that rather high key OF
voice acquired by one who battles daily
with the shrieking of the breeze from
Lake Michigan.
"Mary does seem rather lucky in her
marriages., assented the visitor.
"Yes, this is her sixth. But the re-
mGrkable thing is that she has kept the
same hired girl through all of them. /"
Cincinnati Enquirer
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
How to Make PiccaIiiiI.

Strew salt on a peck Of green toma.
toes and let remain overnight, then
turn off the brine and add q cup horse
radish, 2 cups sugar, teaspoonful Gin
namon, teaspoonful Of black pepper, a
tablespoonful whole cloves, sliced on
ions, 6 bell green peppers and vinegar
to cover the whole. Chop horse radish
and peppers together, slice onions and
tomatoes, mix all together and boil 80
minutes
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
How to Make a Cory Corner.

A cozy corner can be easily devised
from couch, few cushions and sever
al yards OF Chinese Grape. You must
first find the couch, but this is not diff
cult. A couple Of boxes nailed together
and cushioned with "cut down" mat
tress or pieces of carpet padded With
curled hair and covered with chintz OF
denim will make most acceptable one.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
CLAUS CPRECKELs. VIM. G. IRWIN.
CLAUS SpfecksIS & 10.
BANKERS.
San Francisco 4geI,ts-TTE NEVADA BANK OF
SAN FRANCISCO.

DRAW r--or i$Gc or
SAN FRANCIsCo-TAe cvuda DUAL, o. san
Francisco.
LoNDoN-The Union bank OF London, Ltd.
New YoRK--AmCrcan Exchange National
Bank.
CHICAGo-Merchaut National Bank.
PARIS - Compton National dEscompt de
Paris.
BERLIN-Dresdner Bank:
HoNGKoNG AND MISUNDERSTANDING u
Shanghai Banking Corporation.
NEW ZEALAND AND AUsTRALIA-Banko of New
Zealand.
VICTORIA AND VANCoUvER-Bank of Mont
real.
Transact a General Banking and Exchange Business
Term and Ordinary Deposits Received.
Loans made on Approved Security. Com
mercial and Travellers Credits Issued. Bills
of Exchange bought and sold.
COLLECTIONS PROMPTLY ACCOUNTED For.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08

"You know Margaret wanted to get
a man to instruct her in politics.
eyes How did she come outi'
"Well, she got one, and after she had
listened TO him five hours seven other
men came along and told her that he
was on the wrong side of the question. "
Chicago Record.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1896-12-08
A Chionrn Conversation.

Mrs. Livewayte-Have you ever been
to Niagara Falls, Mrs, Hampack?
Mrs. Hampack-Don't | always go
there on my bridal tours?--New York
Sunday World.