The herald., 1896-04-05

it is we'll to remember in the purchase
of materials for spring and summer
gowns. Skirts are just a shade narrow
er than they were last season. Five
yards around is a very good width.
Round waists continue to be worn bu
they are in the minority and will grow
more and more so as the season adj
y;,nces Nearlx eSerytbins. .iiss. III ,vade ,yYjjffl
waist. a Ia Olga Nethersole, is lamentinp
The advent of 'those horrid basdues,
but there are too many tall girls in the
fashionable world to keep the basques
and jackets out.
Some of the most fascinating jackets
with vest fronts are made of velvet
An old rose pink is a favorite shade, and
thus. combined with tinsel brocade in
the vest, and a. silk brocade i'm the skirt
makes an exquisite costume This is the
sort of costume that admits of the jew
elled belt which is so much the rage. ex-
cept that in place of the tinsel vest there
is full front of lace or embroidered
chiffon which is gathered in at the waist,
Many wear these belts over outside jack
cts A lambs wool coat that was quite
loose was belted in little below the
waists with an ornamental belt that
frightened UP an otherwise sombre Co.'S
tune.
Revers have returned to us along with
the jackets, and we shall be all ready FOR
the shirt front and necktie Of the summer
girl when June comes around again.
The jacket, however, is with us now, as
can be seen any day by taking a promo
made up Fifth avenue, New York. Here
is the place where one sees the woman
OF fashion as she is-Dot as she is pic
tulcd in the fashion sheets that come
from London or Paris. Here is where
eccentricities and extravagances are
toned down to something that real people
can wear without fear Of being taken
for living circus posters.
The jacket costume can be worn with
out an outside wrap, a great advantage
in the early spring when it is too cold to
wear the ordinary dress on the street
There is opportunity for the addition of
a chamois jacket underneath the vest
front. and this is sufficient protection
against ordinary blasts at this time of
year. One Of the most striking costumes
pictured in our daily scene on Fifth ave
niue was one that shaded OH the terra
Gotta. 1t was trimmed on both jacket
and skirt with applique embroidery
The jacket was rather short. and had Il
high collar which added greatly 10 its
warmth. From the neck hung volum-
inous jabot of white lace, which by the
way is one of the characteristics of the
spring styles. Make your gown any way
you please, with round waist or jacket.
big sleeves OF little, and then when it is
done stick Il fluff of lace under your chin
and you are in fashion. This costume
had also lace flounces at the wrists and
q cascade of lace around the muff.
A charming girl who walked beside the
wearer of the costume just described
wore one of the new box jackets that
tit at the neck and at the wrists but no.
where clse-and yet they are pretty. This
particular jacket was trimmed to sirnu-
late a narrow yoke with gimp passemen-
terie which also extended around the
bottom of the coat. There were epaulets
over the shoulders that looked like long
revers pushed up from the waist and
away from the front. Revers and epaul-
cts are almost necessities to the spring
costume.
Ready made revers are sold, all ready
spangled Or embroidered for sewing to
the jacket with which they are to be
worn. Many of these revers are made of
satin and embroidered with gold or sill
yer tinsel. The white satin ones are
very rich. looked for some made of
grass linen and l found them. 1t makes
no difference what sort Of thing you are
looking for you are sure to find at least
,ne sample of grass linen.