The morning times., 1896-12-06

curve down perceptibly at the top and
al the lower line descend below the waist
and rest full inch on the skirt. This,
from side view produces ruaning
slant toward the front that is Just the
thing:the waist, too, grows smaller thereby
and the back is made as straight as
board.
Then there are neck fixirgs so eloquent
that they may he said almost to announce
your station in life. and the etiquette OF
the SmartcSt hcadgear now positively for
bids hats turned up at the bark over Il
garden of flowers as was So lately the
capcr.
Tie latest of the brim hats seen are
on the sailor order and are not turned up
anywhere One or two flowers may appear
under the brim at the left side alone, or
at each side of the back: but more com
mouly several loops of ribbon or velvet
will be placed here, or the under brim
decoration may be long, narrow bow put
straight across the back, and sewed in the
old way TO a visor that fits down over
the hair.
a dashing brown felt felt sailor lately
seen had one of these long bows .Inder
the brim at the back.
1t was made of. black velvet on the
bias, folded twice to an inch and a-half
width, and caught down with two tiny
square steel buckles. Another vastly long
bow of the same sort, only slightly wider,
trimmed the outside of the hat straight
across the front; two larger steel buckles
held this down at the sides. and the other
trimming consisted of u sharp black wing
pointing backward over each car, and q
tall. outstanding fr!!i Of black Iuoire hat
encircled the crown.
The effect OF all this, however, was
something too fetching to be described And
anything easier and less expensive to copy
tstn rfnu rs mot hn
found.
a sInall-brInmed trimmed Derby is Il
dashinc conceit in walking headgear. This
hat is exactly the shape OF those Worn
for horse back riding and cycling and the
trimu ng. which is commonly a twist of
coaise silk net about the crown and sheaf
OF cocks plumes at one side, takes away
none of its nattiuess. Sometimes the trim
ming consists only. Of band around the
crown finished at the left with coach
mans cockade. When the derby is cOIored,
blue green or brown felt, and the band and
cocka,le black this effect is very smart.
Both trimmed and untrimmcd, these
hats are worn with plain tailor gowns,
but they seem especially appropriate when
accompanied by Il plain black skirt and
mannish looking top coat of covert or
other brown cloth, q get-up affected for.
morning tramps ON Fifth avenue, and by
u few strapping maids in the swell set.
n specially of the English hatters alone.
They are as neat and sensible as stylish,
and on the right girl no more effective
or inexpensive allaTound street hat could
be recommended. Untrmmed, that is
finished like mans hat with q ribbon
binding and band, they cost from $3.50
to $3.50.
Trimmed in the ways described from
81 to Sc. The one shot wn on this page
is of the Sc variety and is of pale brown
beaver with a black brim and trimmings
of black silk net and cocks plumes.
Headgear for theater wear CONTINUES to
grow beautifully less. Small bonnets are
considered the correct thing ana iu sport
any sort Of view obstructing chapeau is
to announce yourself very mucn behind
the times indeed.
A theater bonnet much in favor is tiny
coronet OF jet or steel. with a bow, q
flower, or two very small feathers fastened
at one side.- A tiny cap of shirred vel
vet with the top crossed by long fiat
bow is another sort called the Bernnartlt
This is massed behind the ears with
flowers la Gismonda, for having gone
into tile business, Nh i,itn. Sate4i sldS sent
over models Of her own headgear to prove
that theater hat may be as becoming as
sensible.
bOdlces for every day street wear may
be said to be unknown Quantities.
skirt and jacket constitute tailor