The San Francisco call., 1896-04-12
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| The trimming is entirely feathers with an
osprey on one side. Lace or tule and
ribbons may also be used, but the feathers,
having a softening effect, are most be-
coming.
Straw of pink shade interplaited with
narrow stra W -colored beading is used for
a youthful hat which is turned mp at the
side, trimmed in the front and back with
honeysuckle and has on either side black
velvet rosettes an osprey standing directly
in the center in front This hat is an
English model, for in France foliage is
used only at the back OF hats, and in Lon
don, as usual, many floral toques will be
seen this year for at the leading milliners
already toques com posed of tulle and flow
ers are in great demand, and ivy has been
introduced into many of the spring models
with good results. Cowslips are in demand
for the time being. Bonnets having a
ones are seen of black and white straw.
A rich little sackcOat in black poult de
sole is possessed by one of last seasons
debutantes. 1t has tiny, artistic sleeves, a
| yoke richly embroidered in let, which de-
scends in strips to a front of black ac-
Gordon pleated chiffon, through which is
seen the silk, which lines this odd gar
ment, and it is pink shot glace. SIM
pie cape for this season looks we'll on a
bright schoolgirl. 1t is of a fine fawn-col-
ored cloth. edged with knife plea tings of
changeable green glace silk, which forms
ruche around the neck. The lining is of
the same silk. The whalebacked short
Goa: has again appeared and a good one
from celebrated house is of pale-green
cloth, trimmed and braided front and
back with black braid, and has we'll
shaped collar and cuffs OF white kid.
Fer bride what could be prettier for
evening wear than a cape of miroir velvet
h ~r.at, =
lace put on with a ruching of black chiffon
and further beautified with a wonderful
embroidery of various colors literally
dlamante? The once well-liked pelisse is
coming again into style. One hand some
model just com pleted for a stvlish woman
is OF pale yellow and old rose brocade with
stolellke ends of rose colored velvet with
an applique of yellow guipure. Another of
gray brocade was designed by the same
firm and is trimmed down the front with
treble ruchings of accordion pleated gray
Chiffon, and over each shoulder is a stri pc
of grebe feathers caught with a bunch of
vlolets in front and frill of soft lace. The
collar is la Marie Antoinette and has
frills OF tiny gray feathers.
Grebe makes beautiful trimming and
am sure you would all admire cloak for
evening wear OF gray satin, with a scroll
design on violet velvet. Grebe also edges
this garment: The sleeves are of the vlo-
quaint little coat of pearl gray satin, COW
cred with large floral design in yellow
and green. The bodice is formed of piece
OF black lace over yellow satin.
A stately grandmother is picture in a
handsome mantle, In cape form, of black
poult de sole, which is covered with bead
EN- broidery and an applique of exquisite
guipure. A ruff of black chiffon completes
1t, and this is edged with creamy Vaen-
ciennes.
For this same grandmother has been de-
signed theater wrap of black brocade,
with bold figures in violet velvet. The
reveres, of the same material, are orna-
mented. Two more revereS are of richly
beautiful lace and passementerie. This
entire wrap is lined with a ch angeable
mauve satin.
One of the simplest and prettiest of
little capes was in one of our store win
dows to-day. 1t consists of two pinked
rutties by changeable blue taffeta silk,
over which were ruff1es of knife-pleated
grass cloth, edged with white Valenci-
ennes. The grass cloth used was the 81 so
| per yard quality. Down the front the
grass cloth was laid in small pleats, two
small buckles apparently holding them in
place on each side. A lace edge ruche OF
| the grass cloth completed it. Such a cape
can very easily be made at home bv any
woman at all clever with her needle.
A very excellent gown from the estab-
llshment of a welIknown English tailor is
made of an olive green face cloth, trimmed
and piped with turquoise blue under
waistcoat. The front of the bodice is
traced with black and gold braid. The
same design appears on the skirt. The
initiated can understand the perfect sue
cess of this toilet when carried out by an
artist and the fearful looking affair most
tailors would make of it, for alas, artists
are few in number and hard to discover.
/ c~~
be gown from the same establishment of
drab Scotch tweed which has touch of
blue in it. The waistcoat is blue and
white check which repeats the tone of the
! tweed.
From Redferns comes delightful
model of coarse-grained blue alpaca. The
coat is piped with white suede, a belt of
the same being round the waist, the revers
displaying front OF lilac-tinted silk
fiorally patterned in a Louis Seize design
and striped down the center with band
of the white suede embroidered in Jet and
| steel.
Canvas cloths are increasing in popu-
larity. A dark blue one has been made
up with an unusually good bodice in the
Russian style of full, loose, low bodice
over high one. This one was worked all
over with minute horizontal rows of gray
cord, interspersed with pailettes and beads
in front; at the top of this was a straight
iouT-lncn DanQ or ecru lace, ana inside the
! neck, forming also the collar-ba was a
brilliant orange and white chine glace
silk; over this the skirt fastened with a
| jeweled band. The sleeves are unusually
graceful. Many dressmakers say that the
Russian blouse will shortly be much worn.
Numerous pretty bodices are being
| trimmed with the new silk run lace.
Basques are sma all and most of the little
frills are edged with narrow black velvet
| or ribbon.
The gown I have had our artist copy for
you to-day is made of apple-green glace
silk with bodice pointed just below the
| waist over basque of cream-colored lace
of superior detail the front embroidered
in wondrous way with pale pink, blue
| and green, with the leaves and flowers of
| lace. Each side Of the skirt is cascade Of