The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-06-07
RESTAURANT SECRETS.
Parfsians Use Artificial Ham Bones
and stamped COclsscombs.


From the London Globe
We often hear people who have paid
twenty-five minutes visit to Paris talk
Of the beauties of Partisan cuisine. Here
are a few of them. Just as the Parisians,
like the cockney conee-house keepers.
have found out how to make coffee without
coffee, 50 have also the Parisiaa restau-
ranteurs found out how to make bouilon,
or beef tea, without beef. 1T the gargOtes,
the lowest class of Partisan restaurants.
a species OF very ingenious fraud has
ana maybe more IL consists IN passing
Off warm water cOlOred and favored with
burned onions ana caramel, and into which
some little grease bubbles have been in
Iected, as soup. It is true that bones
which have been twice steWed, first by
the larger restaurants, ana secondly, by
the interior class Of traiteurs, and cast
away as done with, are SteWed IN TINS
water for the third time, in order that
II may be 1mpregnated, if possible, with
some particle of animal substance, but
as tbs operation fails 20 1mpart to 1t
those little greasy bubbles which the
French term eyes" ami for which the
shrewd frequenters of these establish
ments invariably look, in order to sat
tsty themselves that the broth they drink
has been actually made from meat, cleV-
er cook got over the difficulty by blow
ing a spoonful of fish oil, which, falling
into the caldron, or soup tureen formed
the eyes SO dear to epicures of certain
type. The system was found to answer
so perfectly mat an emplOye euX yeuX
de bOuillon, as the individual who per-
forms this operation is termed, is now
an Indispensable necessity at all gargot-
Ter in a large way OF business.
PariS3ans of a certain class are inOrdi-
nate caters OF manu- N fact, almost as
many hams are eaten in Paris as could
be furnished by all the pigs Killed through
out the whole of France even allowing
for both shoulder and leg being cured in
accordance with French practice.
don Iaf11 IN a mo .
to be supplied in this wise: The dealers
in cooked hams bought up the old ham
bones at couple Of sous apiece, and IN
geuiously inserted them into pieces or
picked pork which they trimmed into
shapes and coated with graaed bread
crusts. In this way many bones did duty
hundreds of times over. lasting, IN tact,
for years. They would leave the dealers
in the morning and frequently return to
them the same night. TO quit them again
the following day. Nevertheless, the sup
ply could hardly keep pace with the de-
mand. Only fancy the inconvenience Of
having to wait for your ham until your
bones which the charcutier relied upon
receiving yesterday. It was to obViate
such a state Of things that an ingenious
individual conceived the idea of manu-
featuring ham bones Wholesale, and ere
long he drove a thriving trade at 10 sous
a dozen; since which time the stock of
hams has augmented, and the delicaCy
has become less difficult of attainment.
Much in the same way, another ingenious
individual, knowing the immense con-
sumption of cClcksqombs in Pagis for
ragouts, coQuilles of cockscombs and vol
auVents, and seeing the high price the
said cockscombs demanded, owing to the
limited supply, set to work to administer
to the demand, and duly established him
self as a manufacturer of cockscombs.
So extensive was the trade done by him
that he found it necessary to set up
small steam engine. He was great
enthusiast, and was accustomed to pride
himself upon the artificial cockscombs
which emanated from his atelier, being
greatly superior to the natural article.
This is the way our artist went to work:
As the same method is largely worked at
this day in London as well as in Paris
aye, and in New York and New Orleans
we purpOsely use the present tense for
time. He takes the palate of a bullock,
sow, calf, sheep or goat-either will 90,
though he prefers the first. After
having blanched. it in boiling water he
macerates it and detaches the flesh of
the paltc vault without in the slightest
degree deranging it, and then places. it
under stamping machine, which
pNnches out cockscombs more perfect in
shape than those produced by nature, yet
sufficiently resembling them to deceive
the cOnnOisseurs. Still. there is a way OF
detecting the artificial productiOnr-the
cOckscombs of clumsy nature have pa
pillae on both sides, whereas those of art
have them only on one. Counterfeit cocks
combs are sold as low as 4 sous the dozen
in Paris to pOulterers, keepers of reStau-
rants, pastry cooks, etc, and at 6 SOUS to
ApropOs of our subject, this man, in his
intercourse with poulterers got to learn
that when they did not sell their turkeys
off at once, they were Obliged to lower the
price One-ffth every subsequent day
bird remained on hand and so frequently
had TO submit to a loss, although the tur-
key might present the same appearance
of freshness that it did when first killed
And yet no cook could be deceived and
this solely because the birds legs which
were black and shiny on the day of ,ts
death, assumed a more and more grayisn
tone as time went on This was quite
sufficient for our man of genius The
shreWd manufacturer of cOckscOmbs
FASTENED home to set to work to conn
attacks of time and render turkeys legs
ever fresh and youthful In a couple
of days he returned triumphant to The
market and furnished the best proof, of
his success by deceiving the dealers them
selves. Trials were next made upon the
public and turkeys with vanished EGGS
were offered to the cunningest cooks
who, deceived by appearances, made their
purchases without demanding the custom
airy abatement, and the conservation of
the brilliant luster of turkeys legs he
came from that time forward a regular
trade; which certainly says little for the
honesty of the poulterers, less for the
| judgment of the cooks, and, least of all
for the assumed delicacy of taste of The
Partisan gourmand.
Trademarks pasted on glassware are Of
ten washed off. To protect YOU against
all mistakes, see that the name Iibbev
with a sword under it, is cut on the glass
ware you propose to buy.-ad.
DR., J. w. Watts, mayor of Lafay-