The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-07-26

as thick as pasteboard. This has the
satin weave one way and the broeade
thrown over 1t in such a way that it
appears raised. There is also new trip
lie warp India taffeta, brocaded in large,
small and medium sized designs
This is brocaded grosgrain, and long line
of surah twill silks, generally in polka dots
though some have figures and some are
plain. The taffeta with clouded figures is
often used for waist or sleeves, and the pre-
vailing tint matches that in the rest of the
gown. case in point was in a costume
just finished of biscuit taffeta. The skirt was
laid in deep plaits in the back and smooth
across the front. Down each front breadth
was row of brown soutache braiding. The
waist was Of taffeta, with shaded flowers and
faded leaves upon 1t. The sleeves were of
the plain silk, with row Of braiding. There
was plated front to the waist. with a
Swiss girdle Of plain silk edged with the
braid. The stock was Of brown velvet with
a plating above 1t Of the taffeta. The back
of the waist was of the plain taffeta, with
fiat fold piped with tan down the center.
saw this gown copied in mohair.
The zouave jacket has come to stay and is
made in a hundred different shapes and
trimmed in as many different styles. but the
Zouave jacket is so individual that no matter
in what guise it comes We know it for
dear old friend. saw a lady wear a suit
to visit a rival friend. The dress was Of the
dainty shepherds check taffeta, the color
being brown over gray, with faint line OF
green. The waist a full blouse with a
myrtle green band down the front, with
cream lace applique on that and on the stock
and cuffs. The belt was plain myrtle velvet.
The jaunty little zouave was of myrtle vel
vet covered with lace medallions and bor-
der 1t was so cut that there was a wide
collar with fiat revers. Some of these little
Jackets are made with gold embroidery or
thread or little breloques OF gold or silver
jet. These jackets may be purchased
ready made or made to match a costume.
Black velvet is the most useful for all pur-
poses, and black silk or satin comes next.
l have noticed some new and very pleasing
effects wrought with lace and thin stufs.
She who invents new way to combine the
fabrics so as to evolve something new and
pretty certainly deserves as well as the man
who makes two blades of grass to grow where
there had been but one. Well, this dress
was a pretty organdie lawn with corded
stripes and large pattern of leaves on white
ground. The belt was wide and of dark green
grosgrain. The waist was loosely gathered
at the belt and down the front were lines OF
lace and apple green ribbon. The stock was
of apple green crepe lisse over MORE ribbon.
There was collar with epaulets. and each OF
these had sort of bretelle which ended with
a jabot frill of lace Thus there were four
Of those jabots down the front. The sleeves
were plain bishop shape with cuffs of apple
green ribbon sewed over with narrow lace.
I forgot to mention that these lace additions
extended down the front in form of tabs,
and they were passed under the belt and hung
down about twlve inches, the lace bling sewed
around them very full.
There are few designs in Irish dimities,
satin stripe batistes, Persian organizes,
French organizes and Persian cords. l notice
among the samples for fall wear some nun $
yelling in light eolors as we'll as black. Some
of this has a bourette stripe, which though
effective, still looks too heavy for such a DEL
icate-surfaced material nuns yelling. Still,
we shall see so much OF the rough, shaggy ef-
fects in all kinds Of goods for winter that
what seems startling now will have become
familiar by that time.
This week l have seen several more double
skirted dresses. One had the uRderskirt of
brown velutina, with a little ruching of
pinked-out taffeta around the bottom. The
overdress was of tan taffeta sewed all over
with oblong black lace medallons. Around
the bottom 1t was cut out in deep scalIops,
and black lace was applied all the mesh be-,
ing cut away, leaving only the pattern. The
velutina showed but little, but still enough
to prove that 1t was a double skirt The
waist was of the silk the front being laid in
smooth plaits on the bust and having the
lace applique below. The joining was under
ruche of the tan silk. The sleeves were
shirred and had doubled caps. Another skirt
was cut in deep rufies of lace. These were
ten inches deep and fell over a shirred ruff
fe of the taffeta Of the dress. There were
others. but no space is left to speak of them
in. Mat Leroy.