The morning times., 1896-11-29
The Reason Why Winter Styles
Have Modes for the Tall
and Short-StripeS and
Piaids Tend to Give
Them Variety.
Copyright, 1861

ldlh lldu lDlaA WIN lNo
centurieres who study exclusively the gown
ing of young girls.
And not the least interesting was tn
tale told me by the head OF the estat
lshment Il never realized the in'
portance OF girls gowns" said he, "ur
til and American mother with five girl
came in here one day, and, burying lie
face in her handkerchief, wcpl biUIrIiy
They have no shape said SHE. and IL
waists, and / am worried TO death Il
dress thrIl''
since Inen / have catered to girls
styles"
noticed that lie clasSci al growing
girls under two heads-thUsc that were
tall and had grown up like willow wands
had certain styles allotted them, and
the other type of growing girls that
grow out and up and in all directions 1T
once. with waist line not far removed
from their arm pits. They had alto
g.Uner a different style OF dress for them.
IL was interesting, too, To note the diff
feTent mate ri ais chosen for the two
types. For the slender girls big, rough
plaids were chosen, or perhaps checks
and heavy. solid goods, and the stout
girls had 90 be content with stripes or
smooth, rather light weight clotl.
1t is 50 necessary in gowuing slender
growing siris 10 establish suitable waist
like it" affair, slipping up and down ~ the
coutouriere'S will. After that is astab-
listed then the cloth of gown may be
80 arranged as TO fill out all deficiencies in
all too slender figures.
Its the stout girls who should claim
most thought and sympathy They gcner-
ally have Il waist line all too firmly es-
tabhshed, but il is so ridicu .ouSly short
that it is best to ignore it as much as
npssihlp in lpSipnlnu their II "a
Sound a tit parade xical, but stout girls
have even more need of fluffy effects in
their gowns than their slim sister. But.
Of course, the fluffineSs has to be well
placed.
one of the simple school gowns l saw
that was designed for a stout girl WIS
made of dark bro own ladies' cloth. The
skirt was moderate width godet, With
all the fullness thrown to the back. Tie
Jacket was one of the short new box af-
fairs of this season.
There were two pretty silk waists that
belonged 10 this toilette. One OF soft
brown silk, shot with a thread of pale
yellow, was made up in quite dress;
way. The back was plain and seamless.
al the waist line.
Tie bodice fastened at the under arm
seam and across the front We're two
pieces of draprd silk that started from
the shoulder anu armhn.e seams at the
right Side and were carried across 20 the
left under-arm seam. From the lower
edge OF each piece Of silk fell frlllS 81
deep cream lace. The tail collar was Of
brown satin ribbon, with tiny ruche 1f
pale yellow satin heading 1t. Instead II
ii crush girdle or Ordinary round belt, a
piece OF ribbon two yards long ana Jwn
and half inches wide was taCk,-I at
tire back Of the waist.
lni> was Ia lie tied around the waist
tvIoc aud kHotted with one long lcop and
two ends at the side With littlc trouble
stout girl can arraii-e tins kind Of a
Girile SO that It will b. most brCuuiTg
10y drawing the ribbon down into slight
point AT Tie front and piuuing iI there.
The other tlouSr that was SimucT was
made OF dark hruwu taffcia shot with
green The hack Of the bodice fitt,d
closely aud two bpX plnits came from
the shoulder seams 10 the Eiriir. The
front was dartlrSS and Housed tfifle
over Ia. ilrci- There ", r. three OF the
box plaitS ~ the frout all Of them piped
w:ih citTou green satin Tibhuu. The sleeves
wc.- rather close .ittiug FOR quite a lis
tstuCc ahOve the elbow aud they were
mounted by full balloons that were draped
UP 10 the aTm-hole seams
A dres>luE-g0wn FOR afternoons was made
Of sage green lightweight camcl's hair
4if NhNI was an OTi4flAfl NALll Efltl
with Il bias band Of Tartan tarfell around
the hottom that was three inches wide
The back Of the bodice was plain. with a
ZUuave effect OF the silk wrought 10y bring
ing two pieces of draped silk from the short
dart seams, crossing them AT the back and
gathering them into the un,irr arm seams
At the front the bodice was daruless and
blOused over the girdc- The Zouav. effect
was carried out 10y bringing pieces of the
n ell Frgr Ea
and knOtting them just at the bust line.
The high straight collar was OF the plaid
silk and the pointed cuffs and narru'v girdle
were of the same. There Were >sr,linary
coat sleeves ON this gown that were Just a
trlfle fuller than the usual run Of this
seasons coat sleeves.
For slender, growing girls, who are al
ways in the majority, | notice, there
were no end of pretty model gowns. In
the skirts Of their gowns a difference
was pointed out to me. Instead of the
gOdets being carried to the back, they
commenced at the hips to flare, which
relieves very much the straght-up-and-
down effect OF too slender figure
Then short. ripple basCucs were notice
able on a greater number Of these gowns
one OF the simple tailor gowns is
made OF military blue ladies' cloth. The
skirt is a fiji, plain eodet, with strapped
seams. The short jacket fits closely TO
the figure In the back, and the basques
stand out i'll stiff riprles, SO that a facing
of white EUrah is visible. At the front
the Jacket opens in blazer fashion, to
Show n great eXpanse Of SILK blouse. The
reyers are broad at the top and onted
and diminish as they near the bottom of
the jacket. Short-pointed reyers of white
broadcloth are fastened over the larger
revers They are detachable.
Another school gown, fashioned eX-
pressly for Z long-waisted girl, is built of
dark blue serge. The skirt. is a PLAIN
godet, with a band of blue and red pas
seinenteric around the bottom The bod
ice las the goods gathered full at the
shoulder seams and caught down at the
waist by very perpendicular tucks that form
pointed girdie back and front.
lining of red taffeta is visible where
the short basques form stiff ripnles. The
aleeves are close fitting beyond the elbow
ana are mounted by rather large iaioons.
A band of passementerie in blue and red
follows the bust line and is continued
over the puffs of both sleevse. The tall
crush collar is OF dull red taffeta.
handsome afternoon gown was made
OF rough goods, with a background OF
burnt orange that was almost covered
with a rough brown check. The bodice
had n plain seamless back, with tiny
plaits holding the fullness at the waist line.
The front was plated at the shoulder
seams and was brought down loosely into
the tall girdle. It opened to show a vest
OF yellow satin that was covered full
with pierced ecru batistc. The small
pointed revers, the crush girdle, and col
iar We're all of burnt orange velvet.
A dressy gown Of fawn ladies' cloth
had n fuIl Ondet etjrf that was llonad