Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-04-09

Fashionable ard Pretty.
specielCorrespondence OF Gazette and Journal
New York, April EFFECTIVE 3. suits
are made with printed velvet, brocade
or taffeta silk coats opening over
satin embroidered waistcoat or full
vest of chiffon or some kindred di-
aphanous fabric. Skirts are of black
satin, brocade, crepon or high grade
wool. More practical, yet stylish out
fits show skirt of mixed wool, with
Norfolk Jacket of serge or cloth, and,
as favorite trimming. on the jacket
are small gilt buttons placed in rows or
otherwise, on the plaits and sometimes
on the large sleeves as we'll; finish
being given by a narrcw gilt belt that
is passed under the plaits at the back.
Akin to the Norfolk jacket is the
blouse coat, which resembles sacque
and is drawn in to the figure by belt.
Some elegant dresses of white alpaca
are made with blouse coat, finished
by white satin and confined by white
leather belt.
In millinery the lavish use of Persian
ribbons has brought out a correspond
ing employment of black ostrich tips.
This is not surprising, since they i'm
part precisely the needful contrast and
give a dressy yet subduing finish. The
constant employment of gayly-colored
Persian ribbons will, moreover, render
hats for general wear much brighter
than has been hitherto practicable,
since ribbon is adapted to so many
occasions for which flowers would be
altogether unsuitable. A case in point
is that of black sailor hat having
soft crown OF Persian silk and three
black ostrich tips at the side. Nothing
more simple, yet jaunty, can be
imagined and for those who object to
ostrich feathers as being liable to in
jury from dampness there is a large
supply of quill feathers in black and
all new colors as well. Tulle, either
white or colored, gives beautifully
softening effect in millinery and is
novel. Rosettes of it, placed under
brims, are delightfully."- refining and set
above combine in exquisite contrast to
other garnitures, especially high velvet
ears that otherwise would look hot and
heavy. So great indeed are the pos
sibilities this season, in truth, that
one is tempted to have more than is
really needful. Opposing styles attract
equally and the ingenious woman can
the more easily indulge taste for the
beautiful, since many trimmings are
inexpensive and require only tasteful
combination. Chiffon is largely en-
ployed in the same way as tulle and
| lovely piazza hats are made entirely of
either material. Toques, made wholly
of flowers, are captivating change
from large hats and admit of endless
variety, according to the different
kinds of flowers. Those composed of
violets are extremely fashionable and
not too gay for persons who might
otherwise hesitate, while charming
ones of roses and kindred blossoms are
precisely the adornment suited to
young beauties. A most iaunty ex-
ample is made of simulated holly
leaves and bright red berries, with
prickly spray extending upwards. Up
right sprays are indeed an all per-
vading feature and some flower toquos
show contrasting blossoms skilfully put
together.
In dressmaking the absence of novelty
must impress the most causual observer.
Economists, therefore, even in this
fashionable place, are by the use of
Ivory soap renewing last seasons
gowns and thus, with peaceful Honls,
have anticipated the coming of Easter.
/ NITtHL use Is uiHtit Vi tIbldh llbbph
stock collars on black dresses Thus
illumined, the gown loses its scmbre
| character, while upon occasion, an en-
tirely black outfit may be obtained by
a change OF belt and collar. The belt
may be of ribbon to match, but the
great popularity of narrow metal,
leather or silk belts causes them to be
often chosen in preference. Skirts of
I wash cotton gowns are trimmed, as
| rule, with greater or less number of
ruffies or flouncea and the latter are at
times of great width and placed singly.
Three flounces of medium width are
seen and "A lace edge seems universal.
A handsome finish is also given by in
sertion let in skirts and for this purpose
black is stylish and in keeping with
the idea OF black as toning factor,
which prevails in every department of
dress.
Spring capes are in unexamplod
exagreration. New ones, in grass
linen, are composed of successive
ruifIes edged with lace and, being set
on a spreading out foundation, the
bouffant contour is excessive. A key
note is thus given to leading idea and,
though not universal, yet very preva-
lent will be shapes that extend to an
unwcnted distance or where the trim
mings complete what has been left un-
done. Thus a cape of green changeable
silk has successive plaitings of black
point esprit embroidered on the edges
and standing forth in most aggressive
fashion. Another example shows bill
lowy waves of chiffon, and in others,
pinl;ed silk ruchings are set on with
most enlarging result Extreme full.
ness about the neck, is marked
feature not only in capes, but in access
sories of diaphanous fabric. Chiffon
or tulle are punched up enormously;
very full lace trimmings repeat the
story and circling ostrich feathers or
tips at the back in finish TO other
garnitures, complete what would seem
| too full without them. The eye rapidly,
however, becomes accustomed TO any
thing labelled "stylish,'' the more so
as full neck trimmings are universally
becoming. Rosalind May.