The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1896-12-25

VI SYN udy SOWHS ullu CulSdSGS
formed usually of soft, pliable materi-
ais.
The Russian silks or Muscoyltes, as
they are called by the modiste, show
many beautiful effects, especially when
metal threads, whether gold. silver or
bronze, are made use of. The artistic
and beautifully woven peau de sole is a
great faVorite this winter, and 1t APP
pears in all the varied and tempting
colors of the season. Examples of this
choice material show shaded effects in
two colors, either defined or vaguely
blended. In the domain of faconne or
fancy fabrics are included all sorts of
corded, striped, watered, notified, dot
ted, plaided, boucled, changeable and
checked effects, The rich Oriental dyes
are noted in many of these fabrics, and
among expensive and effective winter
stuffs are India woolens figured in rare
Persian designs showing applique pat
terms in high and low relief. These de-
vices are repeated in luxurious carriage
and opera cloakings and in the list of
stamped velvets manufactured in Ly-
ons
redingote of seasons past has multi
piled its one deep fur-edged cape by
three, thereby losing none of its smart
ness, for each Of the graduated capes
is very full at the lower edge, revealing
in its undulations glimpses of bright
Tartan lining or one of plain brilliant
cerise. A stylish expression of the red
ingote style, made up on the other side,
is of rough-fi finished cloth in black, the
capes edged with black Persian lamb
and lined with cerise silk, showing a
fine repped surface. The high stand
ing collar is wholly of the fur. Other
long wraps, less expensive in price,
come in plain bourettes or invisible
checked tweeds, Harris cloths and
Scotch cheviots, and the capes are silk
lined. The edges are simply machine
stitched, but the cut and finish are
above reproach.
1t is still observed that at full-dress
entertainments the low slipper or Gren-
ell sandals more frequently match the
gloves in color than the gown. The
newest russell, gray, and pale tan shoes
are in pointed high-arched Louis XIV.
style The Cleopatra sandal of I'M
dressed kid of dark serpent green
color, that is almost black, has the di-
minutive toe covered with an Egyp-
tan design in jet, ruby and dark olive
beads. These sandals are made to or
der A graceful low-cut shoe very
much worn with Spanish toilets in red
and black or yellow and black, is made
of black undressed kid strapped over
the instep and fastened with small gold
buckles set with brilliants. A dainty
sharp pointed Chinese slipper to be
worn with elegant neutral tinted even
ing gowns, is made of softest dove-gray
Swedish kid, deftly wrought with cut
steel beads and lined with rose-colored
silk. The Richelieu shoe, beautifully
arched and half-low, is not a novelty,
but it is prime favorite for general
evening wear and is made of the softest
French kid ever produced. The silk
stockings more generally match the
shoe or slipper and not the gown, ex-
cepting in the case of a bridal toilet,
when everything is white save the in
evitable something blue"-for good
fortune.
Some of the new very smartest even
ing bodices are called the Queen Eliz-
abeth" models, and these are made
with extremely long points, the gradu-
alton from the waist to the end of the
points being unusually long and sharp
they are even more extreme than
those shaped long years ago on the
original bodice, and as regards the jew
ell decorations applied to this particular
corsage, they are not to be outnum-
bered by Englands one-time queen
herself Jewelled corsages and jew
elled collars and girdles appear among
large portion of the most expensive
and fashionable gowns of the winter
and on these toilets the spurious gems
are careful copies Of real stones and as
rule do not err on the side of undue
proportion, therefore look far less mer-
etricious and are in better taste thar
more obtrusive jewel garnitures.
Skunk fur is exceedingly popular this
winter 1t Is now wholly deodorized
and is extensively used under a far
more elegant title to decorate garments
both light and dark in color. Black
lynx is now to be obtained in a fast
dye-the color does not rub off in the
least, and this with black fox is one OF
the most dressy and effective of the
! long lustrous furs. The badger natu-
raj lynx, and fox pelts in blue, silver
and gray, with chinchilla at the head
are among the stylish light furs. Very
! dark mink is highly favored as deco
ration, and, like otter, never loses
caste. Russian sable bands and tails
! and the American sables brought from
Hudsons Bay are in steady demand
Beaver is still used both plucked and
unplucked in It's natural color, and also
dyed. Caracal, grebe skin, and soft
| full moufflon are all novel favorites
T Sealskin capes, redingotes and jackets
| have, like real laees, a standard value
| that never diminishes. The seal coat
with it's addition of modified sleeves
spreading or Understanding collar and
| reyers of the same-the coat beautiful.
| ly shaped and lined, is more than ever
an ideal garment devoutly to be de-
sired by.all women.
| Among an array of fascinating even
| ing toilets lately exhibited was an i'm
ported model of white India tulle ovel
a demi- trained foundation of MORE ir
small waves The effect of the sustrous
| watered silk under the lovely diapha-
nous textile was most beautiful, and
the tulle itself was given additiona
! beauty by the effect of the waved fab.
ric beneath it. But the browning ele-
| gance and novel charm of the gowr