The San Francisco call., 1896-11-29


o in proportion l do not consider that
sufficient of any one OF these three
requisites for success is spent on the Sc
lect1ng and ordering of their wraps, there
fore have secured tor them descriptions
OF several models of capes, cloaks and a
new pelerine, which is such q delightful
creation that it makes me feel like keeping
the composition Just for my dearest
friends All these models originated in
either London or Paris. The ur-lined bro
caded cape is not only handsome but
most useful article of apparel-t can be
so easily discarded on entering warm or
overcrowded room. This pattern may be
carried out in a great variety OF fabrics,
but the one which received the highest
commendation in London was of black
velvet sprayed with dull red roses with
their leaves. The lining of fur makes it
most comfortable round the throat, and
q down the front extend trimmings of black
Thibet goat For morning wear only
cloth can be substituted for the brocade.
Sc Velvet is also in vogue, and it is cheaper
this season than ever before. The pelerine
sis com posed OF ermine. and breitschwautz,
most exquisite embroidery, completes it.
The muff matches. The cut is beautiful
how gradually the collar slopes; and at
the waist line is buckle composed of dia-
monds and emeralds set in dull gold in
itself work of art. The lining is of lus-
i: trous white satin. When rare lace ap-
plique,takes the place of the EN- mbroidery,
this innocent little wrap becomes too
costly Tor any not richly endowed with
this worlds goods. However, so perfect
is the shape that it will suggest many de-
o hghtful possibilities to our bright girls.
One of the handsomet opera cloaks re-
Gently remarked in Paris is here depicted,
. for am giving only examples, models OF
garments that have made the critical and
best-dressed of women a trifle more beauti-
full and attractive than ever. This one is
In Ophelie velvet, with an application of
Luxenii lined and trimmed with the love.
liest of chinchilIa, that most deiiciously
becoming and comforteb BILE fur. Note the
'aigrctte in my lady's hair; it springs, ap-
PATIENTLY, from a jeweled ornament con-
-ssting OF a great turquoise surrounded
with diamonds. Each tiny spray of this
aigrette sparkles with gems. Such cicak
o any woman would love to possess but 1
would notbe surprised to hear its praises
sung in some Eastern fashion journal a
little later on, for its destination is New
York. .
A sortie de bal. of white satin lined
. with the. new pinky mauvre shade in
satin was admired recently at the opera
Q Over it was draped a long dalmatic in
white. lampas brocaded with small
fOuncess of mousseline de sole, covered
with a golden guipure. 1t was completed
by high collar and long waistcoat of
elder. An exquisite cloak we all. ad-
mitted.
Girls, the next time you are in England
be sure to secure a Slmla CLOAK. for this
':Simla" fabric, fashioned of two cloths
woven together. is as light as a father.
being of "a soft cashmere wool. The
Tsaritsa ordered a cloak during her re-
cent visit from Scott Adie, who alone
makes the oloth,which may truly be said to
be aofabric de luxe. aud it is as suitable for
day as the evening. Even the cold blasts
D, of aaSt. Petersburg winter will not be suf
ficiently penetrating to pierce the gar
ment ordered by her Majesty, for it also
has lining of padded heliotrope brocade
covered with sprays of heliotrope. The
FUR that forms the collar and extends
down the front Is composed OF the skin OF
an extremely rare Finland fox, end al
though of biscuit color, is called "blue
fox. Very smart is a driving coat of a
good fawn cloth, lined throughout with
gray and white real squirrel fur and
q trimmed with deep collar and large
reyeTs of mink fur. This model was on a
dummy at a Regent-street store, and as.
@ sure you it was very swell, being strictly
tailor-made, and what do you think of the
price, $6O?s
l. must also chronicle the. fact
? that many of the most lovely
evening cioaks are this season made
OF chiffon, which at first seems abb
surd considering the icy winds they are
presumed to shield US from, but on inyes.
ngaslop they prove highly satisfactory as
the chiffon is merely killed over a founda.
tlono cape of satin, which is lined with
ermfne. insertions and laces frequently
stripe the chiffon and add a few more five
dollars to the costly trifles.
Another extravagant but exceedingly
pretty cloak may be made out of chine
brocade with white ground, lined
throughout with white Mongoian goat.
the large collar of this being cut In Medicis
form 10 turn up round the neck. Scarcely
less economical is coat in the empire
style reaching to the hem of the gown.
eomace OF black satin lined with white bro
cade trimmed with real lace, and collar
ofsabie, CUTS OF sable finishing the blouse
sleeves OF this Another suggestion for an
evening cloak is torquise blue-watered
pophh traced with silver sequins. lined
with sable. and boasting sable collar at
the neck. Sable and ermine are the only
furs suitable for wearing in the evening.
and thibet may be cordially recognized
too, but this only looks we'll in white, and
when allowed 10 form the lining as we'll as
the collar.
on the whole. the theater cloaks this
year are prettler than theS have been sfor
many seasons; and as, a last examnIe Of
the truth of this let me quote a coat in
sac shape hanging from the neck. made OF
black satin. covered with a running an
plique OF ecru lace. this lined with azure
blue satin, the collar OF chincilla, and-by
The way 1 have forgot to say chincsilia is
an admissible fur in the evenng-looks
quite lovely.