The record-union., 1896-10-18
superior to. the first models Of the kind
that were sent out

superior to. the first models of the kind
that were sent out.
Next to the sumptuous yellow tfnts,
moires, and brocades that will take first
rank among elegant evening toilets this
winter, the beautiful rose tintS stand
supreme. and the lovely dyes that ap-
pear among these exquisite colOrs ex-
haust all the superlative adjectives of
the admirers of this particular tint.
They are certainly very fascinating
among the satins and brocades, the lus-
trOus failles, the soft undressed Liberty
silks and satins, crepes de Chine, Marie
AntOinette, silk gauzes, chiffOns, and
similar diaphanous textiles. In dancing
toilets of repped silk, veiled with lace
and trimmed with satin ribbons. they
impart an exquisite glow to the COM
plexion. Many Of the French toilets in
sea-shell pink are pink alone in chiffon
or mousselaine de sole over taffeta or
faille of a deeper shade. Other toilets
are mixed or delicately toned with
mignonette green, olive. palest mauve,
or hOneysuckle yellow, and also with
certain very lovely and exceedingly
faint shade of fawn color.
Magpie evening toilets of black and
white will be in highest vogue all winter,
and these gowns, if Of elegant materials,
have the merit, when designed, OF CIV
ing most distinguished appearance to
the wearers. Black lace over white
moire is lovely. Black moire is used
this season for the skirt of the dress,
with a white satin bodice as Its accom-
paniment, but there Is no violent con-
trast Of the two, for the cleaning White
satin is subdued by the embroidered
chiffon, mOusselaine de sole, etc. A
pretty dinner gown recently worn was
made of white satin as to the bodice
and skirt, with a bOlerO jacket ana
ceinture of Russian green velvet. There
were deep Vandyke sleeve-caps OF the
velvet, with close coat-sleeves or the
satin beneath, trimmed with pearl and
gold passementerie, the same beautl1ui
garniture showing on the satin bodice
front and ceinture.
Oak-green camel's hair, plain or with
shaggy bars or dots, is combined tor
the early winter with various rich furs,
and looks remarkably well with nearly
every sort. It is extremely stylish and
effective with narrow black fur bands
and black arabesque braiding or with
black Persian lamb, looking richer and
brighter by contrast 1t combines ele-
gantly with mink or sealskin, and is in
equally good taste with beaver or otter.
Golden gray beaver, chinchilla, and
baby lamb fur are used with fawn and
dove-colored cloth by women OF clear
complexion with rich color. The deep
shades of brown are, however, becom-
ing to many types Of faces, made up
unrelieved with other color.
In all the endless category Of mate
rials there is none SO universally be-
coming as velvet. Women who cannot
wear any other black fabric satisfac-
torily choose black velvet without hes
itation, relieving it with jet, fur, or rich
lace If the complexion is florid or SAL
low, for to either of these types black
is not complimentary black
velvet. Although not first choice, the
handsome crepon fabrics still occupy
quite prominent place in the fashion
able world, and many of the novel silk
and wool melanges for autumn and
fects.
Fancy stripes in corded silk and satin
will be much worn in demi-dreS this
season as fancy bOdices with hand
some black skirts, as gored skirts with
velvet blouses or jacket bOdices, or as
entire gowns with satin or velvet ac-
cessories. These fabrics admit Of so
many attractive combina tions of color
and trimming that it is no wonder that
continued favor is shown them.
Faced cloths this autumn appear in
very elegant variety of deep and
beautiful dyes-creSS and oak leaf
greens. deep sumac reds, sage gray.
Several handsome shades in olive and
reseda and innumerable rich, warm
browns are among the most attractive
colors, while for smartness the new
Danish red is certainly the color A
little Of it placed judiciously to tighten
somber costume is very effective.
Among the epaulette trimmings on
French dinner and evening gowns are
those showing numerous long loops Of
broad velvet ribbon or Of piece velvet
lined with satin, that fall over the short
full puffs Of the close coatsleeves.
Bands of the same are then carried
from the shoulders to the belt, rosetted
at the back, and ending in front in a
girdle or in long loops and ends at the
left side II the waist is a round one