The herald., 1896-01-18
A FRENCHY GOWN.

A combination gown of crepor and silk
shows the colors of brown and heliotrope,
the crepon being brown and the silk in
changeable effects in heliotrope and brown,
brown velvet and brown pasementerie COM
pleting the decoration Of the gown.
1t was made with full godet skirt, meas
uring twelve yards about the bottom. 1t
was Of the brown crepon, lined throughout
with changeable glace silk in brown and
heliotrope.
The bodice was very oddly fashioned,
having the yoke and girde of cloth, and
the blouse fullness between Of silk. Tho
yoke and girdle were fitted smoothly, and
bordered by the delicate passementerie.
The sleeves were large to the elbow, and
close fitting, with wrists bordered by passe-
menterie.
Below the girdle was set a very narrow
little basque piece of silk, that stuck
straight out all round the hips, while the
large bow at the back.
The hat was of heliotrope felt, trimmed
with a plated ruche Of brown and hello
trope changeable gauze, with bunch of
brown quills standing up at one side.
Black velvet capes are very much in
vogue, and appear in numerous designs,
from the little, short ripple shoulder cape
to the deep pelerine reaching to the tips
of the fingers.
A beautiful cape was made Of medium
length, in triple fashion and enormously
full. Each collarette was in circular style,
interlined with fiber chamois for warmth
and stiffness, and lined with white satin.
The throat was finished by large rucho
of black ostrich feathers setting up about
the ears and with two long, straight stole
ends Of black satin ribbon hanging down in
front.
The hat was of yellow felt with broad
bri The hack bQnt
up ever so slightly to show a mass OF
purple violets and leaves. while the crown
was trimmed with pleated ruche of yell
low gauze and four great, waving black
ostrich plumes.
It is popularity supposed that a knowledge
of the art of shopping come by nature.
But it doesn't. 1t is the result of much
experience and many mistakes, and not
few bitter tears bedew the things that were
not all wool and a yard wide as one had
been foundy led to believe, or that looked
in the light quite a different color from what
they did in the dim obscurity Of the shop.
The spending of the family income de-
wolves mostly on the wife, The comfort,
the appearance, the health of the house,
hold depends largely on the wisdom she
uses In her purchases. Why, then, should
she not give the subject serious thought
and make shopping the fine art 1t really is?
1t is the absence of a knowledge or now
to buy that makes one woman look
sloven, while another, with no more money,
is always we'll dressed. To know how to
shop we'll women should be familiar with
the products of many countries: she should
have an idea of correct proportions and
know that to be well dressed an entire out
fit should be of the same degree OF costli-
ness. She knows that an elaborate nat Is
out of place with a plain gown, ana
shabby shoes and gloves Will SPOIL the
effect of the richest frock ever made.
A great mistake. too frequently made Is TO
crafty the eye BY buying some garment
simply because it is pretty, without consid-
erng whether it will harmonize with the
rest of ones belongings.
Now that the school curriculums are be-
ing enlarged to take in ell the ologes and
isms. why shouldn't shopping department
be added where girls could be taught to
distinguish between "all wooP' and "cot-
ton one way" and to learn the relative
value of nainsook and Hamburg, and the
wearing qualities Of torchon and Valen-
ciennes?
miss Jones, e. s." (expert shopper),
might not look as fine on a diploma as
Miss Jones, Ph. D., but there would be a
deal of comfort in such woman. She
would be the jewel Of wife and mother to
whom Solomon referred when he said:
s'She seeth that her merchandise is good"