New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-04-12
RESTlI RANT SECRETS.
PARIsIANs Use ARTIFICIAL HAMBoNES
AND STAMPED COCKsCOMBs.

AND STAMPED cOCKsCOMBs.
From The London Globe.
We o,,ea hear people who have Paid twenty-five,
~ aute visits % Paris tax OF ne Dsaut I, OF
the Parls.ar-. Ike the cockncy coffee house keep.
ors have fouri out how To make coffee without
c1ec so have also the Partisan resiaura,eurs found
oui how TO make honon. or beef Tea, without
beef ~ the sargDt,s. the lowest class OF Paris
r,staurants a species OF very ingenious fraud has
moss been common Tor over hiif a CENTURY ana may
coiorei and Favored with burned on ons tnd cara
mel and INTO which some little grcr4" bubbles nay"
been injected. as soup IL IS true i"At bones "n.ch
Tan,s and secondly by The Inferior class ~ Irateurs
water FOR the mind time IN order that T. may he i'm,
preguatcd. { possible with some particle OF animal
those little greasy bubbles which The French term
these establishments invariably look. In order TO
satisfy themselves that tho broth they drink has
over the difficulty by blowing a spoonful OF ush OIL
which. falling into the oluldron or soup tuTcen
yp. The system so found IT, ans%er -
perfectly that an .mp.oyc aux ycgX dc bouion. as
termed. Is now an indispensable necessity at all
g.rgoifrs Ia q .ars' way ~ business
% ham. Ia fact. almost as many hams are eaten n
Paris could be furnished by all the PIGS killed
Nth French practice The demand used--and may
Sc uow-tc be- Supplied "a this wise. The dealers
Ia cooke! hams bought ny thc old hambones at a
ihcm into pieces OF pcklci pork which they Trim.
med into shape and coated with grated bread
~ lines oyor aStns IN Fact, for ' Years They
would leave tho dealers IN the morning ana fire.
S Sgn thc osa s' a Neverheess 20 the S supply
could hardly keep pace Hith the demand only
fancy the Inconvenience OF having 10 wait for your
ham until your neighbors servant took back the
hamebone which The eharcuiicr relied upon re-;
things that an Ingenious Individual conceived The
ere long he drove thriving trade at ten sous a
dozen; since which time the STOCK OF hams mas
fcut OF attainment. Much In the same way. an
other Ingenious .navidudl knowing the immense
coquilics Of cockscombs and vol-auy vents. and see
NIX the high prices the said cockscombs com
to minister 10 the demand and duly established
hlmsof AZ manufacturer OF cockscombs. 80 ex-
cn-ive vas the trade done 10y him that ne found 1t
necessary 10 set up "A small steam clgne lie vas
: great enthusiast ana was accustonei 10 PRIDE
mated from his atcler being greatly superior to the
ms is the way orr artist TO work. As the
same method Is largely worked at this day In Lon,
Isn a. %s "s an ana nrsan, ,n
for time. He takes the palate OF a bullock. COW.
ccrs the first After having banched II in boiling
water. he macerat,s IT, and deta hes the flesh Of
he palate vault without In me slightest degree de-
ranging Il. ana then places II under a stamping
machine which punches out cockscombs more per
| i"ci IN shape man ,hosr produced ny nature YET
sufficiently resembling them To deceive the connois-
ne al proiuotion-ihe cockscombs OF clumsy nature
! have pnp" on both SIDES, whereas those OF art
have
are sold four sous the dozen In Paris to
pou.;crers. Keepers of restaurants. pastry COOKS.
etc and at six 10 cooks I'm private families.
! Apropos Of our subject. this man In his Inter-
course with ponl,crers got learn that when they
| did not sell their turkeys of at once they were
obliged 10 lower the price about onehfth every sub
scquent day bird remained on hand. and so fire.
qucntly had to submit loss although the turkey
! might present the same appearance OF freshness
that II I'D when first killed. And yet cook could
! be deceived and this solely because the birds legs.
witch were black and shiny on the day of its death.
/ assumed "A more and more grhysh tone "a time
went on. This was quite sufficient for our man Of
genius. The shrewd manufacturer of cockscombs
! hastcncd home and set TO work 20 compound a
varnsh which should defy the attacks OF time. and
render turkrys legs ever fresh ana youthful In
couple Of days he returned triumphant to the
market. and furnished the best proof OF his
| by decevlng the dealers themselves. Trials were
next made upon the public and turkeys with var
nishcd legs were offered TO the cunnngest cooks.
who. deceived by appearances made their pur-
chHscs without demanding the customary abatc-
mcnt, and the conservation OF the brilliant lustre
OF turkeys legs became from that time forward a
regular trade; which certainly says little for the
honesty Of the pouiterers less for the judgment
OF the cooks. and least OF all for the assumed
delicacy Of taste OF the Partisan gourmets