davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-03-22
'COLLARETTE WH|MS.
ITS MANY CHANGES IN RECENT
YEARS.
"A PEEP AT OLD STYLES.
The Generously PrOportioned Womn Il
Should Avoid the Exaggerated
SILK Affairs of the Present.

NEW YORK, March 13.-The collarette,
scarf or necktie is one Of the minor whims,
but We may treat it as one which possesses
considerable Importance and is capable OF
much comment thereon. The necktie or
scarf should be a dainty trife to discuss,
lalthough. to speak In very truth, 1t has
never attained throughout its various
phases that degree Of perfection which
should characterize every article OF raiment
worn by lovely woman.
Looking at this whim as carefully as we
may. 1t must be considered a distinctly
modern, or perhaps we should say fin de
jsiecle creation. Prior to that era. the
rufle, the collar, the jabot had taken posi-
tions Of grace and beauty in fashions book
but Of the bona flde necktie, the thing OF
loops and ends, we seem to hear small
mention as a whim until the crinoline had
died and the chignon craze was strongly
upon US.
The necktie or scarf is, or was, a whim
which seldom emerged from the common
place, although curiously 1t possessed but
few attributes Of usefulness; 1t was a
superfuity without beauty, and we can
only think Of 1t as a creation evolved from
true to her name. longed for frippery, but,
weighted with the stiff propriety of the
time, could not help designing even the
Iairiest whim with mathematical precision
Iand stiffness; and the necktie. cumbersome,
ugly and inartistic, was a typical product
of her prudish phase.
We may call to mind the necktie and scarf
in it's early stages very accurately by peru
sal Of the family album, which will un-
Idoubtedly contain the faded portrait Of more
than one slmpering feminine relative at
The herald., 1896-03-22
A VERY CURIOUS FAD.
Grandma Would Never Have 3
With Her Kneea Cr0szeN!

Grandma Would Never Have Sat
With Her Knees Crossed!
There wa~ a time when woman who had
tho temerity to cross her knees In public
was considered as quite too bold to be
within the pale Of good society Fashions
kinks have taken another twist now, and the
woman who is In good society shows it by
crossing her feet. obviously. That Is. she
not only crosses them in the privacy Of her
own room, and when she seats herself In her
favorite wide. low chair in her reception
room. but she crosses them in the stree.
cars and the cabs, in the railway stations
and in church, She does, indeed!
nal in the habit. though our grandmothers
thought so, nor is 1t improper, as our moth
ers thought, and would like to think yet
IL they were not bewildered by the awful
overturning given to their previously con-
ceived ideas Of what is right and proper,
but It is certainly ,inelegant outside Of one S
own home. s Ia ~. .-
In ones own boudoir. where the frou-
frou Of lace rufles and silk plaitings, the
amplitude Of skirts and abundant drape-
ries cover all crude outlines, the crossing OF
the feet Is not exactly ungraceful. Then.
too, It gives opportunity for the display OF
q well-shod foot, a daintily turned ankle,
half displayed and half concealed by the
clouds Of trimming that women pile on
the bottom Of their skirts. and quite suits
the abandon Of the exquisite tea gowns and
the hour.
But awav from ones home! Well. that
is another story, especially IL 1t Ii told on a
street car-in pantomime.
The herald., 1896-03-22
ALWAYS LOOK YOUR BEST.
That IN Fashions Golden Rule an,
Should Never De EOrGOtten.

That IN Fashions Golden Rule and
Should Never De Forgotten.
When as a people We learn that the
chief end and aim Of fashion is to make
one look ones best we shall be on the high
road to being the best dressed nation under
the sun. Partisan women will have what
Is most becoming to them IL they can get it.
American women want what somebody else
has. There's the chief difference If the
Partisan fashionable woman looks best in
a round waiet she never wears anything
else, but follows the styles by adopting all
their elegancies OF decoration. coloring, etc.
1t Is a liberal education in the art Of dress
making to get in behind the scenes and see
how the masters and mistresses of dress
work. Ask Paquin to make you a dress, and
say What shall have?" Does this clever
artist recall gown worn by Empress this
or Queen that. or Actress So-and-So, and
say such and such thing would be
pretty" Not a. all. Your figure is taken
into consideration in selecting rough or
smooth, large pattern or plain goods. Your
eyes, hair and skin are considered in select
Ing the chief color. Then with a roll of the
warp printed silk for a cue. Paquin will
coil twist OF ono color about 1t. and then
another, and the harmony and contrast are
decided upon, and when you are clothed in
the result of this cogitation you go forth in
the nearest degree to a right mind on the
subject Of dress that you have ever had
llkely.
The herald., 1896-03-22
#,s::.s::..' ~ J
Il PARIS

PARIS. Feb. :i.-Pnris and Loadua aNA
America me. and shock handc and nmiiNl
and Crank innunerable cups of tea Aerk
the other day quite a. II wars and -umuH
of wars had never been Heard Of T. va q
tho fair at the British Embassy (of couus
they called 1t q '.bazAar'). PLANNED tax
charity by Lady Duferir, with the assists'
anco Of the other ladies' OF tho Embassy. and
the E1EiIsA quarter in Paris assisted By
great many OF their friends across th5.
Channel. Parls society patronised the tay
zoa- handsomely, going quite into raptursM
over the exhibition Of tho Oriental treasures
which arc owned BY Lord Dufferiu, having
been collected by him while in the East.
or Presented to him By magnates Of sil
degrees Of m0gnifceace both al TO their
persons and their prexents .h
Lady Duffern h-rCcf prcsIdsd over the
Embassy's specia! s,ali. and very. graciously
indeed. On the second day Of the fair she
looked especially well III an odd gown hf
paleisn blue silk. braided with black, silk
soutache and 1etted silk cord. The entire
bodice. as you will see in the sketch. was
covered with braiding, which had thu effect
Of raised embroidery. and the skirt which
seemed to button upon the waist with short
sharp points. fastened by Jet buttons, had
foot trimming OF the braid and cord ar
ranged in vanjyked band, with the points
toward the top. Her hat was Of black vel
The herald., 1896-03-22
|'WFlNr sllE BUNS| !
y3Y =

The slipshod housekeeper is the exac,
opposite of the fussy one. She is deficient
in what, for lack of better name. one may
call mental giue," and has absolutely nc
method; everything Is done at random
and the whole establishment, literally and
fguratively, tumbles to pieces in all direc
tions. To Use her own expression, she ha.
no head" and continually forgets things
or remembers them too late to be of an,
use The servants do pretty much as they
please in this sort of house, and partakt
Of the general slipshoddedness, both ir
manners and appearance This state O.
things is to be found in all grades Of So
ciety. from the highest to the lowest.
Ihere is the would-be smart woman
who tries to keep up a big establishment
and makes en- imposing appearance on &
limited income; and there is the woman
who makes no pretensions of any sort. bu
pieaos a large FAMILY and small exchequel
as an excuse for her slipshod household
In the first case the smart housewife Z?
spends all her money. or, at any rate, ia,
too large share OF 1t on dress and pieas
ure. She lives beyond her means. ws.t,
ard extravaganza are the order Of tho dav
debt and disaster too often the result
hiihs she looks upon as so much waste paper
to be thrown away with lofty dledain
unless sne is absolutely dunned for tn,
>'' ~"N CVtoiAe Q1SdEreeablo IL
consequence; then she begins to borrow
takes to secretly pawning any avoilabl,
Jewels or plate perhaps. even worse ah,
is tempted to bet or gamble. do anvtbin,
In fact to got out Of her difficulties ali ~,
time only plunglng deeper into the mIre.
x y "
Once this kind of thing beeins n 10 I'm
possible to say where it may end II sh,
has any children, woe betide them fo
their mother takes little or no heed of III orr
babies arc bore. and the nursery a terr,
ncognito to her; the nurse or goyerneas
as the case may be, is chosen without an,
discrimination. and the unfortunate chii
dren are left in the charge Of careless n
ignorant people. and suffer untold miser,e
in body and mind. too often to be reyeneet
in after years.
The Smart" slipshod housewife ia se,
dom visible till midday and then-unles
shopping or pleasure calls her out-sh
appears with dishevelled coiffure and ar
rayed in untidy teagown and slippers. tn
afternoon and evening see her in ali he
glory, but until then she is rarely pre-
sentable. The servants in this house ar
always in scramble, bells are rung per
petually on the smallest provocation at al
hours and under all circumstances: thei
meals are snatched at odd times, and wor]
done by fits and starts. always liable to in
terruptions; they seldom get to bed til
the small hours, and are expected to be vi
early.
X < x
On the other hard, all kinds OF petit.
The herald., 1896-03-22

pilfering goes on unchecked, waste runs
riot, and, providing they are forthcoming
when a bell rings, their mistress takes
little heed of their comings and goings. OF
of anything that happens below stairs (ae
to her kitchen, she never enters IT., and
so the whole tone OF the household gets
demoralized. All kinds Of faults are un-
noticed or passed over. because it is "toc
much trouble to speak Of them; the cook
may drink as much as she likes, providing
she sends up a good dinner; the maids
may be out at all hours, or take unlimited
holidays, and entertain anybody they choose
downstairs, as long as they do not inter-
fere with their mistress arrangements
and yet, in a sudden fit of temper, she may
one day give them instant dismissal.
Every blessed woman who dares Is wear
ing the wrapless suit on the street. They
are built to show off the figure, and are
ever so much more dashing than the half
fitting jackets worn all winter. A smart
gown of deep reddish purple has accesso-
ries Of smoke gray broadcloth and bands OF
thibet The skirt is the usual faring sort,
we'll set out at the foot and lined with
rustlng purple taffeta, the sort that retains
it's frou-frou. The bodice Is short and
round. confined by vest at the back, and
with deep tabs of gray broadcloth. outlined
A broad shield-shaped vest Of the same is
trimmed across the top with the fur, CIV
ing the appearance of round yoke.
A thckly choued collarette of plum col
ored chiffon finishes the neck, while hat
with a faring brim is Of black, tossed on
carelessly and made elegant by crisp bows
of black satin ribbon and glittering orna-
ments of rhnestones.
Some very stunning new things are seen
In tailor-made suits. This is just the sea-
gon for them, and nothing looks more chic
and dashing than a smartly cut. perfectly
finished gown. such as tailor gowns always
are. One of the most fetching I have seen
and wonderfully becoming to the brown
haired, splendidly groomed woman who
wore il. was of dull Prussian blue, trimmed
with black soutache braid.
The skirt had nine breadths, each one
very sharply cut to point at the waist and
exceedingly wide at the foot. The Jacket is
only moderately short. and full of ripples at
the hips. 1t has sharp, rolling revere. rich
ly braided with black. and O tiny waistcoat
OF richly embossed black satin.
With this natty gown Is worn a swagger
little linen shirt front and standing collar.
which, with a dazzling club tic of ecarlet.
completes the costume.
The herald., 1896-03-22

1t lost, too, its elegance in common fabrics !;
It's companion few years later. and worn.
indeed, but two seasons back, may be called
the last of the necktie after ite earliest de-
sign. We allude now to that fashioned of
moire or plain black satin. trimmed at the
ends with frillings Of cream Of white lace,
and this tie was worn exactly as it's prede-
cessors-that is to say. placed round the
neck and tied In bow, with long ends hang
ing. 1t possessed heaviness becoming
only to the few, and too soon became vul-
CARRIED to extinction.
Then of latest date and worn with the
ldst named scarf We have the necktie in
many and becoming forms in satin, silk and
velvet Of every shade and hue. swethed,
ruched and folded, tied at the side, the
front. the back, and, above all, as the ribbon
band and inevitable bow worn, too, from the
society queen to the serving maid. and still
The herald., 1896-03-22

pies upon the costume. not represented by
dainty twist Of lace or ribbon, but as an
item Of solidity, a large and elaborate affair
Of silk. with heavily fringed ends. upon
which was worked . border In impossible
flowers. Such was the scarf in tts early
stage; in color. white. or else the brightest
purple. pink Or blue glaring hues, for art
was slumbering. and the melting tones Of
color. so familiar to us now, not even
dreamed of by Fashion.
Yet was 1t deemed de rigueur for every
woman to wear 1t over a gown Of simplicity
and elaboration alike, its arrangement being
Of the stffest kind. In this and slightly
differing forms the necktie enjoyed lengthy
popularity of perhaps fve seasons. when,
still existing. 1t altered In character, grow
ing daintier and more fragile in appearance.
and fashioned Of such fabrics as fine musins
and laces put together with skilful fingers,
and like this It was worn more as an addl-
ton to our outdoor attire than before, Yet.
The herald., 1896-03-22
HEAVENLY MESSENGERS.
How many weary hearts.
Tired nf this Hfe's alarms

How many weary hearts.
Tired Of this Hfe's alarms,
Find their sweetest comfort
in the clasp OF childish arms?
Messengers straight from Heaven
Are little children sent,
To teach US to love the Giver
Who our treasures to US hath lent.
God help the sorrowing mothers
And fathers all over our land
Whose children have Joined the chorux
Sung by the heavenly band.
Oh! the little cribs arc empty.
Once SO full OF happy life.
While we are left in this weary world
TO toll in its hurry and strife.
But when our work is over,
And death has brought lis calm
In Heaven. once more around our nacks
Shall We feel the childish arms.
And then how sweet the thought!
How glad we are to know
Once more we'll hear our darling saw:
Mamma, ! love you so!''
Boston Glo5s
The herald., 1896-03-22

than borax or toilet vinegars, and more
Trustworthy than ammonia, which, it is
said. induces a growth Of down on the
skin. The Partisan ladies' maids prepare
many delicate toilet waters. They have
materials on hand for meal baths, starch
baths. flower baths. sea baths and medi-
Gated baths. What is regarded as a lux
urious bath contains as many ingredients
as a Christmas pudding The bath tub is
lined with a linen sheet gored so as to fit
the tub. The bath bag contains perhaps
almond meal or oatmeal, with orris root.
and the contributions OF at least a dozen
bottles The tub being filled almost to the
edge. the bather gets in and stays there
The herald., 1896-03-22

not condemned to obscurity, but possessing,
when put on properly, certain individuality
and feminine grace.
OF the necktie in what may be termed it's
emancipated form We cannot fall to speak,
for has it not passed from a whim to a
feature in our wardrobe?
OF what should We speak now but of the
necktie proper and mannish, that trife
taken from the masculine wardrobe and
worn with such smartness upon our tailor
made costumes and neat summer skirts.
This is perahps the tie we have loved best
Of all, and it may be said with truth to
possess the virtues Of adaptabillty and COM
plete neatness.
OF the wearing Of this necktle, and all
others favored by Fashion to-day, much
might he said. To the woman who looks
well in the severe gown Of tailor make the
ruannish tie is a natural and fitting accom-
paniment to her costume, but it lis probably
she upon whom the band and bow would ap-
pear out OF place. Tho short-necked woman
whose proportions are generous should rig
idly eschew the modern necktie OF swathed
silk with outstanding and exaggerated ends.
and with such details horne In mind the
necktie OF the present should be fair sue
cess.
The herald., 1896-03-22
bit Of the bookworm In her. There Il really
no usa Of making her read"


Tho wiser modern mother to thoroughly
educate her daughter sparea nothing to
awaken IN her the appreciation OF what fe
most latent In her nature. She Is bound
TO work out her natural bent herself II
she is naturally bookworm her course In
sports" ID severe and Systematic. II shc
has no ear for music, she Is at least thor
oughly grounded in the meaning Of muoic,
hears all there is. and does not herse!i
leave tho piano until she has at loost some
realization Of the works OF tho masters.
and their methods. Her study Of the arts
of painting and sculpturing is equally thor
oush, as far as knowledge Of the princi-
pal sotools. and Of the best work goes It
IL not wtat they can accomplish in the
way OF picturc-making. musical perform
ance, or golf drives-they all may be
markedly mediocre. even inferior. But Il
10 the critical and intellectual view Of life
that they acquire. that is the habit Of all
cultured men and women OF the world. A
dilettante is always charming to know.
however impractically Of use in the world
she may he.
The herald., 1896-03-22
THE PERFECT WAIST.
Venus de Milo Proportions Are En,
Better Than Squeexing.

VenuB ue MIIO FrODOrf1OnH AFe E0r
Better Than Squeezing,
What is a well-proportioned waist? Lady
Harberton says: THE true proportion is a
difference Of ten inches between the cir
cumference of the bust and that of the waist
Thus woman whose bust measures thirty-
six inches should have waist measuring
twenty-s inches. Bust forty inches, waist
thirty inches. and SO on. Very few corsets
are made in this proportion. and ii they
were, still fewer people would buy them.
as fashion DEGREES that the waist should
measure from twelve to fifteen inches less
than the bust"
In the course of time women may come
to realize that true artistic effect is only
attained by proper respect for proper
ton and symmetry. Plenty acknowledge
this trusm in most things but dress, where
they cannot avoid flying to extremes.
The herald., 1896-03-22
crs-ro-DATn FASHIONS.

Whether you are a. lean as Sarah Bern
hardt used to be. or as plump as Nine.
Materna ID no.. don't let any corsetlsre
pretend these, ,two;virtu are not compatl-
bio with your. r',,c since they are resources
at her commanl. Right inside the corset
she can build up or take from the figure
with wonderful effect. II nature has been
chary Of her rounded gifts let her duplicate
them for you by fitting on a padded corset.
Tho old-fashioned prejudices against
pads has lately all but disappeared / can
assure you," hustled on the little dealer In
handmade stays, because nearly all wo-
men use some padding now and because Of
the beautiful French stunning imported for
the purpose. Every corsetiere Is ready to
vouch that only one figure in the dozen is
without what We can call holes and lumps
though the posSeesors thereof may be as
plump us partridges. Down about the hips
| along the shoulder-blades, and under tho
arms, too. many persons are badly filled out
or roughly scooped, and all these short
comings tho corset maker remedies with
clever little French pads. They are made
Of the finest. lightest curled hair. much Of
| 1t human. stitched into linen covers and
all ready to be incorporated into the corset
| In Paris they manufacture and send
ever thousands Of them in all shapes and
sizes. following with absolute perfection the
whole anatomy Of the body. from hips to
can wad in the hips and bust. making them
appear as delicately curved. softly rounded
as II nature had done II herself. and defy
an artist to tell where the simulated flesh
was laid on
"Oh. dear no. madame; we never use cot
ton. and any woman who tries to promote
her own figure by stufhng In layers Of bat
ting. or allows her dressmalxer to sew such
materials in her gowns. can only expect to
promptly lose the charms and fullness she
possesses with amazing celerity. Long ex-
pertinent in amateur and professional pad
ding has proved that cotton and flannel
wads overhead the flesh next to which they
lie, and actually melt away as fire does wax
from dolls fece."
| 4 3 e
Frills and rufIles are to be feature Of
sprirg gowning. They indicate, or, rather,
emphasize. the escape from the severity
OF the winters costumes. Many Of the
materials are frivolity personi1ed. Crepon
and mohair, In all sorts of crinkles and
odd figured weaves, are shown, light and
!, fluffy enough to be combined beautifully
with the lovely stufYs shown In the line OF
trimmings. Skirts. 1t Is said. will grow
even more extended and the sleeves smaller.
the whole effect forming perfect angle
from the shoulders 20 the feet The shoul-
ders must have not one suspicion of erect
ness, but droop artistically to the elbow,
or as nearly so as possible.
One OF the newest sleeve models is in
bishop shape, extremely full to the wrist
and all laid in heavy tucks one and a half
Inches deep from shoulder to elbow. Each
tuck is laid with dozens OF small fiat gilt
buttons put very closely together. The
| trimmed parts Of the gown are the bodice
The herald., 1896-03-22

A quaint bodice made by Felix for din
ner gown is Of ribbon plated in and out
after the manner of sofa pillow covers.
The ribbon is jeweled, and the effect good
ON the first gown Of the kind. When 1t
has been copied a few times It will be
cheap and commonplace.
The herald., 1896-03-22
1T IS LENT.
She has a dress OF Dublin green,

She has dress OF Dublin green,
And many glowing colors blent.
She longs to have the costume seen,
But she must wait awhile, ween,
To show the garb-for 1t Is Leat.
She wears upon her heart her sleeve,
With coquetry OF mild intent;
And yet. her many suitors Krieve:
Because, alas! they must believe,
In spite of all. that 1t Is Lent.
So. everywhere we turn to-day
Our dearest hopes In twain are rent.
And. though our. bills We long to pay.
TO creditors We have to say:
mo cash to-day; for 1t is Lent"
Chicago Record
The herald., 1896-03-22

gill was IL unbeautlful to the eye. for its
. wear bestowed a neatness to which dowdi-
ness was twin sister.
Yet did the muslin tie become a craze as
beloved as the glorious collar Of to-day,
worn by all, while it was, too, one Of the
continual Joys OF the home dressmeklng
maiden. But thea, as with every whm.
came the season Of surfeit. Fashion placed
the neckte in the category Of the post for
the time being, and the plain high neck
band and linen collar reigned supreme, but
only for short time, and very soon we well
coined the scarf, fashioned, not OF silk or
muslin, but in the airiest Of fabrics.
This Was the black or white lace tie,
reminiscent Of the mantilla Of Spain, though
never. alas! to be donned with such euc-
cess; net by any means a triflng item
either, but an article Of length and width
which, we are bound to admit. POSSESSED
certain charms Of grace and becomingness,
and we admired 1t. es We could still, II
worn with discretion.
To be a success this necktie OF half a
dozen or more seasons back required a
wearer Of stately proportions. and looked ito
best upon dignifiod matronhood, and as ali
| accompaniment to handsome outdoor attire
The herald., 1896-03-22
4 Royal Apnrtmcnt uou...

Hampton Court Palace is divided into flf.y
two suites Of apartments, the accommodation
Of which varies very much in size some
having as many as forty rooms. These apart
ments are solely at the Queens disposal. and
are granted often to tine widows o. officers or
those who have served the State
The herald., 1896-03-22

Turquoise coloring is greatly in evi-
dence, and by this is not meant the familiar
deep blue Of the blue turquoises, but the
pink and yellow tones of the turquoises
of those tints which are less known, and
very lovely.
The herald., 1896-03-22
A New England Anecdote.

| A Dexter (Aie.) clergyman. while making a
call the other day accidentally broke the glass
| in his hosts door. kind old lady started a
subscription to settle the damages. She sue
ceeded so well that there was enough left
after paying for the. glass to buy the clergy
| man pair Of trousers.
The herald., 1896-03-22

Fashionable people OF to-day do not seem
to desire to be accounted we'll bred in public
1t has been woll said ordinary civility among
them Is one OF the lost arts and graces.