New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-09-13

sometimes called by milliners 'moire astraNhah
These fur hats are trimmed with rch' creamy
laces and twists and bows OF white MORE antique
and gorgeous-h ued velvet: and in place Oh ostrich
tips there is often at the side cluster OF hu"y
sable tails wired so that they stand upright lhese
combinations might seem incongruous II they were
not handled by such artists in millinery as caro-
line Ribeau and Nirot.
The predominance Of that most stately fabric
moire aftique velvet and satin antique, Is ho'e-
worthy; and the stiff and splendid unsel en-
broderies that suggest the ceremonial robes OF 'he
Greek Church are now much used in elaborate
millinery All the chief Partisan mllliners SEM
over the most fascinating capes OF fur ana more
antique or Of some other rich fabric ana huse
direc toire muff TO wear with these elaborate hats
These capes are only little scanter than those
worn last winter, but they are not so pouhah':
being held quite close to the figure. back ana
front in large stiff box-pleats and in knife pieat-
ings 4 few o. these graceful little wraps nave
tablke fronts, but they are the exception.
The PREDOMINANT coors of the season are the nat
ural vegetable huos used by japanese dyers OF SILK
Japanese rose is the variety Of osepink so COM
monty seen in Japanese embroideries. Japanese
groom Is clear emerald color and is perhaps the
most popular color OF the season. IL Il used Win
excellent effect in relief with black. Women return
ing from Paris display little Of this color on their
black gowns Sometimes it is merely used as
lining to the scanty little ripple collar and Guns
that oftens the edge of the high stock collar ana
the long close, wrinkled sleeves. These>seeVes IAN
over the hand. and are extended into an agrees
sive but diminished puff half way above the eibow
A combination of green satin antique ana pIack
MORE astrakhan Is shown in wrap from Caroline
Ribcau The yoke and high. harng. Dut siasheo
collar was Of the soft. close. black lamb which was
as fine in wave as watered silk; vide Knfe-pea'eo
fall of the green satin antique completed tho
length of the wrap. 1t was lined with chehe SILK
in delicate shades Of green and was an exception
in this use of colored Innings White MORE antiquei
employed as the lining for the majority OF these
elaborate garments.
LARGO hats with soft velvet crowns and WOE
hrtms woven of chenille and silk cord. completed by
a garniture of lace and fur or plumos ana lace:
elaborate Russian turbans OF fur and rich-hued
velvets and lace; an coronet-brimmod mats gar
rished with let embroidery. all worn with these
caues There are other bonnets with the soiI wave
ing hrims which are so generally becoming
The multiplying OF shapes Is necessary TO sun
tho bonncts TO the varied types Of the American
face The best miners have learned the necessity
Of ating and adapting bonnes and hats 10 the ind'
,idual: they do not attempt. as too many dress'
makers do 70 fit all their customers from a few
rrrorted models without regard 10 the individual
requirements OF face and figure. The new coronet.
trimmed bonnets which called "directoire."
though the shape is probably copied from the jews
euad .Kokoshaks" worn by Russian women. are
ro, likely 10 be becoming. The style demands
facial outlines not common among our sprighty
ffnf a
Ieetroot red Is new red of somewhat "bricky'
tones but one that harmonizes better than terra.
Gotta with the tints OF the complexion, II Is used
chiefly In various tones without the Juxtaposition
Of any relieving shade Royal purple. which Is
again revived is used In many tones, the lightest
shading into violet. The popular mixture OF royal
hlue and green is shown in braids OF felt and silk
cord and other materials. Black is more often en-
ploycd I'm millinery than any color and IL II more
often relieved 10y white MORE antique than by amp
bright color. but there many hats with huge
soft crowns of japanese green or japanese
rose velvet Ostrich pompons In clusters. vita
standing sable tails trim some OF these
hats other hats with rather wide. siraighl
brims and low. nat crowns n are " ca,cb.
ing IN the brim al the back. but noddinS towara
the front cluster OF silk roses IN cohNcn,iota.
color or some similar trimming. Is arfanseu uhus
the brim so that the hat may AT properly over ths
hair -, iol ,..r sae,rs "a,
s,,rad I'm, me hat IL no more worn 10 harmonlze
in coior with the costume unless ~ mace OF tne
material IL Is me desire 0t rrei a. protes,
against the trouble and loss or making mats from
material provided by me customer 4 nc ~ ie,u
are shown In beptroot rods, IN Foyal purpe an9
other cOiors and then are trimmed Win frushel
silk roses pumes and tips and velvet In me same
tones These monotone hats are worn WIN taiof
gowns and are by means As emphatic In effect.
The colors being subdued, harmonious shades.
There wide ties or moro rlbhon on some OF
the large hats. hut narrow ties OF velvet rbbol
will be used bonnets and will be tied under the
chin Wide hat strings are sometimes tied cccen'
The mlners have sent ever many fine collars a
the haring Mcdici shape combined with velvet and
MORE A. wen Pc capes 10 wear with Donnets and
hats
Violets have taken a fresh lease OF favor They
vet. and re frequently combined with grapes 10,
trimming pufple hats Green and violet or Nal
purple is fashionable combination ci colcr.