The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1896-04-08

more usually from the tenth to the last
Of April. In light or sandy soils they
can be planted earlier than in those that
are heavy. Though, as stat ed, the roots
of the plants like cool soil, and the
plant grows best before the weather
gets warm, yet it is plant that delights
in sunshine, and must never be planted
in the shade. The soil should be in
good condition, but it is better that it
should have been left so after removing
the previous crop than TO fertilize di-
rectly for the sweet peas. If the soil is
poor and stable manure is applied, it
should he that which is we'll rotted; and
by no means is it advisable to dig in
fresh stable manure to ferment about
the roots of the plants. If old manure
is not at hand it will be far better TO
use good commercial fertilizer. This
can be scattered on the surface and
worked in when digging. Although
early planting is advised the ground
must not be worked when it is wet and
sticky, otherwise it will be apt to bake
when dry. Having turned the soil and
crumbled it with the spade, rake the
surface smooth and then stretch line,
as long as the rows are intended TO be,
and by the side of which open a trench
four or five inches deep. Sow the seeds
along in this trench about two or three
inches apart, and then cover them two
inches deep with soil. After the plants
come up hoe in little more SOIL and as
they continue to grow work in some
more, and thus continue until the trench
is full. By planting deep the roots are
secured in cool place for the summer,
and experience has shown this to be
good practice.
If more than one row is to be planted
then two rows can be placed ten or
twelve inches apart, and it is better al
ways to run the rows north and south
if it can be so arranged, but this is not
absolutely necessary. Planted in that
way the sun can have better access to
them, which is desirable. Brush of
some kind, such as tree prunings with
the twigs left on, which have been pre-
served for this use, or that have been
cut where conveniently obtained, serve
a good purpose for the plants to climb
in. Latterly great use has been made
of wire netting to train the plants on,
and it is we'll adapted to the service,
not very expensive, and will last a
number of years. If brush is used,
stick it in alternately on each side of
the row, or in the middle of double
row, and do it at once after sowing the
seeds. If delayed until the plants are
up there is danger that it will be too
late, for if there is nothing for the
little plants to cling to they will fall
over, and then there is always trouble
in getting them up. So, also, if wire
netting is used it should be put up at
planting time or just before. When
there is double row the netting is
stretched through the middle between
six inches from the ground, and the
ends are fastened to two posts or stake 8,
one at each end of the row. The posts
can stand about FIVE or six feet high.
Another way of trelising is to nail a
cross-piece about foot long to the top
and bottom of each post, and then nail
wooden slat to the cross-pieces, be-
low and above, and stretch strings up
and down from the Stats, making q
diamond-work, string trells.
Hoe the ground frequently along the
rows while the plants are making their
most rapid growth. If the weather is
very dry at midsummer place some
grass clippings, or straw, along on each
side of the rows to keep the ground
cool and prevent escape of moisture.
Cut the flowers as fast as they de-
velop and do not let them go to seed {;
in this way the strength of the plants
will be conserved, and they will bloom
Monthly Magazine.