Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, 1896-10-25

not so fashionable as the other materials
| entire gowns are still sometimes made of
| them.
Some of the fancy nets have very large
holes through which ribbons of several
widths may be run to form the decoration
| on both bodice and skirt. This simple
trimming, however is confined usually to
the dance frocks Of misses and very young
girls.
Handsome is a mild word for the new
| evening silks. They are OF superb texture.
| many Of the richer ones made heavier still
| with gold and silver thread and a number
! of the brocades showing the dim soft colors
of antique stuffs. Several of the designs,
| indeed, are exact copies of the brocades
| worn during the Louis Quinze and Louis
| Seize periods. one charming Marie An
| toinette pattern in dim pink and blue with
| prim baskets OF flowers tied with knots of
| ribbon.
A gown of this sort was made with a
short full skirt falling open in front over
a pettcoat of yellow lace. The low bodice,
also OF the brocade. has a V-shaped vest
| or the lace and tiny ruche of blue rib
| bon heading simply the decolletage. The
sleeves also closely followed the Louis
| XVI. idea in cut and trimming. They
were little shorter than elbow length
| fitting the arm closely and finished at the
bottom with shaped founce OF lace.
EFFECTIVE TRIMMINGS.
Brocades of all sorts are much used both
| for trimming and entire gowns. Small
| bits OF genuine old weaves are in great de-
| mand. and whenever in sufficiently good
condition are used for hat crowns belts
vests and ether dress trimmings.
Gace silks, somewhat heavier than the
| cid taffetas, and often figured, are also
| conspicuous gown trimmings, and moires
are seen in profusion, though they are not
In favor for very young women.
An evening gown of pale gray MORE
wi Nh I'M 10 nd fplg
| rosebuds was very charming Again other
MORE gowns were hung entirely with thin
| stuffs, tulle and silk gauze, the glttering
wave of the foundation showing through.
and folded belt and perhaps tiny puff
| sleeves matching.
Sleeves, by the way. however are very
unimportant affairs in the new dance frocks.
| For young girls there is still pretense of
some arm protection. a three-quarter length
| or short pun, but for the older fry
the sleeves Of low bodices are often a mere
| continuance OF the lace or flower drapery
that decks the decolletage. At the shoulder
| these are punched to give a little extra
width and fall gracefully a slight distance
over the arm. Underneath again a narrow
! velvet band finished with a bow may en-
| circle the arm like bracelet, but with
many OF the imported models a shoulder
strap OF velvet on flowers is the cole ex-
cuse for sleeves in lew evening bodice.
With the palest and thinncst, and even
| white tulles, spangled headings will be
used with mink and sable fur for trim
4 mings. At the shoulders OF the bodice sew
cral tails will mingle with the light sleeve
drapery, while wide belt OF fur may dis
tinguish some smart model that bears the
name of great maker.
EVENING WRAPS.
Fur, as both lining and trimming, also
appears on the ARREST evening wraps. \
waist length cape, stamped by Paquin and
| exhibited nv smart Fifth ShOD
| realized in pink silk muslin over a second
| cape Of Russian sable. This, however APP
| peared only in the lining, which was COW
| cred closely at the outside with pink satin
then over this hung loosely the muslin cape
| itself Here little dwelling, for that bit
! of muslin frivolity was something to make
the mouth water. 1t was made entirely OF
| muslin puffs running round, and divided
| between with narrow edges OF sable, headed
| by rows of single spangles in scales. A
vast fur collar finished the neck and inside
| this there were big quillings of the muslin
| that muiiled the throat softly and ended at
the chin in a vast bow with long ends
that came almost to the bottom of the
| skirt.
An evening cape somewhat longer and
| fuller was made of grebe, which is bird
| skin of satin softness and delicacy now in
! high feather with the furriers. This was
the usual gray, or rather black and white
| of this skin, with a lining of old brocade
yellow.
| DECORATED SKIRTS.
But to return to gowns and above every
thing, skirts. Here fashion has taken a
new tack indeed quite turning up her
nose at the plain skirts so lately adored.
Scarcely an evening jupe is seen now that
| is not trimmed in some way, a few of the
| hip effects suggesting the funny old apron
i overskirts worn twenty-five years ago
These are made through RULES of lace
plain silk. null muslin sewed on the
skirt to give the look of an overjupe
sometimes, indeed, the apron will he made
OF another material, lace or muslin frilled
at the bottom, with perhaps sash ends at
the back. These VIII tie at the waist in a
| big bow, with pretty od-time look, very
becoming to slight figures Many other
models suggest that it is only a question
of time when overskirts themselves will
| DO with us. And il tight sleeves are to
come back, why not?
Some of the trimmed skirt designs are
caught up at one side over a contrasting
pettcoat effect. Again evening gown
will have lace panel at one side, the
brocade or satin top skirt swinging loose
| and giving quite an upper skirt effect.
Many other signs indicate the profitable
and near approach of the overslSirt.
RIBBONS AND GIRDLES.
AS to the bodces OF the new evening
gowns, boeros and figaro effects are seen
on many of them, however low the cut
! The little jackets will be made of black or
be entirely of lace or only simulated with
| trimming. The high corselet girdes arc
also In as great vogue as ever. and for
| slight figures are made of folded velvet on the
| bias. A cunning swathing of the figure with
| ribbon. crossed and recrossed and the glrdle
higher at the back than front, is another
| sort This will appear on tulle bodices, the
ribbon used satin or MORE and the girdle
fastening at the left or back with bow
| and sash ends.
Tatfeta ribbons with black velvet edge
may be had very cheap and make pretty
trimmings for children's and misses frocks
For the gowns themselves dotted and
| figured mulls are materials much In favor.
The little skirts are gored and hung loose
over silk Innings; the ribbon, II narrow,
| Is gathered through the middle and put
on In ruches. Then on the bodice, which is
either high or only slightly cut out TO give
| the tlniest glimpse of q young throat, there
| are all the deep glrdle effects that dstin-
| gush> grown-up frocks. Narrow black vel
vet or narrow ribbons crossed in lattice
work and forming an entire blouse over
| another color Is another pretty fancy for
ehildren's party frocks,
NINA FITCH.
WET WEA THER TOGs.
Passing of the Clumsy Old Fashioned
WutcrprOofs.
All clothed in macintosh the maid OF