The morning times., 1896-10-11
New Jackets Hide Even the
Hip Line.


cut pattern in either damask or boucle
weave. The pattern may have more than
one color, as boucie lines OF black with
mingled threads of green, red aud yellow,
forming a plaid over a plain ground, or
as a damask figure in cashmere colors,
but mixed and changeable grounds seem
to have disappeared. The character OF
the patterns may be inferred from Que OF
q broken scroll in black on eotored
ground, as OF red or saffron, the design
covering well the ground with an ail-over
effect. Wool crepons are not being made
But novelty woods have not now the
fashionable vogue they formerly had and
more and more neglected for plain weaves
and plain colors. The higher up one goes
among the Gressmakers in tie scale of
authority, the more is remarked for street
dress an exclusive use OF serge and cloth.
The reason seems to be that such dress
tends more and more to tailor forms with
the style and beauty in the cut. II is in-
tended to be worn every day throughout
season, and takes the place OF the va
riety of changes OF other times. 1t is a
such dress needs to be OF durable and
plain material
Years ago figured woods We're made up
with bodice and trimmed, and extra
wrappiDgs were put on for tue street,
and this is true now of the afternoon dress
OF women OF leisure wien they go out for
ceremonious visit. a visiting dress may
be of wool as well as OF silk. and it is
just here that these novelties find fashion
able use, though it is but truth to say
that even here plain cloth is for the most
part preferred.
Scotch plaids do not come under this
structure. They have been produced in
quantities presaging run and Will lie very
much worn. They take for the street 4
jacket of plain material, blue or green.
A model gown in novelty wool is Of SAT
iron and black trimmed with brown velvet
and rcpouSsc gilt buttons. 1t has q fitted
jacket bodice opening over yellow clifton
front. Tie bodice has a flat basque te-
hind and is short on he hips, like figaro,
and Slightly pointed towards the front.
Revers and cuffs are OF velvet and " ide
velvet puff is at the foot of the skirt.
Buttons are at the bottom OF the waist
behind and on the front and the cuffs This
is visiting gown and requires an extra
cloak or furs.
With regard to street costume proper it
is too early to say Acknowledgment Jackets
may take when cold weather sets in. The
fashion for the demi- season consists in copy
ing summer forms in warmer material
What was in pique is now in serge or cloth
or velvet, and the form is fitted or loose.
as ore shape is preferred or the other.
dress OF black serge Just made has
the front breadth Tapped over with a double
row nf Stitching and three large sm okcd
pearl buttons on each seam near the top
Short loose coat double breasted, with two
rows of buttons carrying up the lines OF
those on the skirt. Standing turnover
collar. Flouse OF India foulard in which
red and yellow predominate. Red felt hat
trimmed with black velvet, a rhinestone
buckle, and black tips, and red and orange
velvet rosettcs under the brim.
A fashionable street dress that does
not need To be made by a tailor and need
not cost a great deal, is made OF Scotch
plaid wool. which is to be had in mex
pensive qualities, with short loose coat
of dark green or blue velvet or velveteen.
The coat should have some fulness in It,
say box plait behind, turned inside, and
side plait on each side the front This
fulness In some sort compensstes for the
lack of a good tailOr-cut and also for any
cheapneSs in the material 1t will be
easier for the amateur to finish the neck
with box plated ruch OF the velvet than
with collar. A satin ribbon bow may be
placed at the back of the neck and another
with ends in front, A bishop sleeve will
he the easiest to make, with a turnover
cuff The skirt may be trimmed with
| narrow ruffles of velvet, say two a. the
foot and one nearly half way up.
Preference seems to be largely for the
loose coat, and this form will certainly
serve as foundation for immovablc fan,
tastes in velvet and fur for rich winter
dress. Another thing that viii tend to
keep it in favor is that it is found very
adaptable to bicycle wear. Jacket
sleeves are such modest gigutS as 10 pass
unnoticed. Buttons arc rather more in
view than usual and preoccupation is
shown with their choice. They are in
oXydized silver and gilt with chistlled
or repousse pattern, and also in fine
mother-of-pearl and c6lored enamcls.
Skirts Of wool costumes promise to be
| a little shorter than usual 1t is tircsome
and nearly impossible to hold up the
weight of an English serge of the quail
| ity in use, and tailors say they should
clear the ground.
AS to the style OF autumn dress, since
| there is no longer any emphasis given
! to the sleeves it Is not easy 10 say in
| just what it consists. Its tendency may
be inferred from the following details: The
| jackes is rather short and has a certain
| bobbed-off look, rs though it were Il pen
| dant to the collar. 1t hangs from the
| neck and so cffaces the bust, nd rs 1t is
| as wide as the hips these last are shad-
| owed and practically annihlated The
| skirt by a refinement in its cut still fur
| ther cffaces the hips. Instead of beins
| convex Mt the top and so following the
| natural form, the outline runs from the
belt to the foot in line nearly straight
| on even slightly fiaring oUtwards Be-
sides the gigot used by the tailors there
| are other sleeves close at the top and
wide at the elbows, that give to the
shoulders n narrow effect. Finally the
hat is no longer trimmed on both sides
| alike, and SO appears smaller than 1t
did. 1t is less loaded with trimming and
the crown is more In view. Also high
crowns are being tried.
From all this it would seem that fash
| ion Is tending towards q long slender
figure. The resources of art permit women
| to look plump at one time and slim at
| another, and we seem to be on the way
towards such . nsstamoEphosis Winter
viii tell