New-York tribune., 1896-05-14

savish imitation or fattery of extreme modes. nor
the sinking OF individuality or what Is personally
becoming 10 them. but simply drifting with the
natural current and appropratng what Is best
suited to one personal characteristic.
The seems long way from the subject or Yer
nssage bu is suggested by It and by the arrogance
OF many women who pride themselves on dressing
no; with but outside OF the moles. one could more
easily forgive them II their attempts were more sue
cessful even Judged from their own point OF view
but Il !s too prone 10 mean Il general "sioppness.
regard for comfort. ard mistaken idea 81 what
they think they look their best nand don't
But this does not mean that there were not many
handsome and mCdish costumes this day,
and great many pretty women and goody
sprinkling OF smart women were present. The
group from the theatrical world Is always interest
Ing: and indeed many people 20 TO NernSsagc 20 see
Bernhardt She IL never absent II she Is In Paris.
and her place this year partly filled In point
OF public interest by Madame Rejane. whose plquant.
gamine-ike face looked well beneath modlsh
capote OF flowers. and her svelte figure remarkably
fine in a gown OF rich dark red chine silk which
unfortunately was too carelessly put on TO fasten
neatly in the treacherous joining or bodice ana
skirt in the back.
The National Theatre represented by Madame
Beaudes Bartct and Mile Reichenberg. Sybil San
derson looked stately in a black walking costume
with trimmings OF white and Ia belle Otero much
pretter than her portrait in dancing costume on
the line in a nuny black net costume trimmed by
a quantity OF irdescent embroidery.
There were many black lace gowns made over
colored silks mohairs and etamne stuffs which are
only trinc coarser and heavier than the old
fashioned grenadines. Etamnes are set up over
both plain and shot silks. one OF navy blue built
over a transparency Of the same color was very
smart with a trimming OF back. Three bands OF
inch wide black satin ribbon encircled the bottom
Of the skirt and there high Drectolre belt
ade OF soft folds OF black satin Above this, on the
front OF the bodice short jacket sides trimmed
with bands of ribbon. The back breadths OF the
bodice rose TO form two very high wings back OF
the head which stifened 10 turn gracefully
away The front OF the choker was OF soft Per
so n SILK tying in a square bow under the chin, and
the soft blouse vest showing between the jacket
sides was OF the same stuff
some OF tho most successful gowns were OF the
soft foula rd silks In navy blue and white that have
reappeared this season novelty one had
short sleeveless jacket OF navy blue cloth. trimmed
with cream lace and a successful, II ODD. touch or
color was added by the choker or pale green Vevet
Some pretty gowns were OF MORE SILK, which mas
sprung suddenly into favor. One OF purple was es-
pecialIv effective with a blouse vest OF ecru lace
fastened by old silver chains he'd by clasps set with
turquoises. ,..,
Hats and neck ruches were large and conspicuous,
as of a garden OF flowers. Among the pretty toques
was one Of black gauze trimmed with an enormous
bow OF black and white straw. In front was pcrched
ono light blue ostrich tip, surrounded ny White
aigrettes A charming hat Of black and white gauze
fris was mounted on a band OF bright rose velvet
Some curling black and white feathers shot UP
smartly on one side.