New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-02-09
THE NEW CLOTHS.
.,ro,.rc ron SPRING GOWNS.

MATERIALS FOR SPRING doNN''
RI, ,o,, tailor cloths for street gowns. seen In
Nev-York repeat the soft mixtures anu "''''s
~ color wh IA have been popular ior TIE '"A' 49,"
...,s There are no strik.ngy ne" co.oiS u
,,.av.s In the spring cloths. but WISE oohse''a-
.,. t,- governed he choice Of patterns. Manu-
,,....,,-s are beginning 90 realize that IL - 10
....r ,...a.,rv q on.r cloths % eccentric weave
and bizarre color ng to eaten the favor OF Amer
,au shoppers The taste Of tie pubic I" oe"e
...r, lay educated beyond the need OF s'a''''' 8
novelties.
There seems 10 b. a demand this season for the
smooth ughi-we.sht chcviots. which are firm In
,.,,ur. and rot loosely woven Ike the Scotch
hone.ouns Trey VII make charming summer
travelling dresses because they are sheer and
smooth enough 20 shed the dust All these goods
OF smooth finish Ike an oll-ashloncd ladys cloth.
are called by the ta..ors faced cloths This sea
son these cOins are shown chiefly In those fine
melaus.s OF color whore thc various unts and
shades are dyed In the wool anl lrresulary caried
together before the thread OF the warp and wooi is
woven into cloth.
These melance cloths are sometimes crossed by
an .udls,.nrt plaid. formed OF a slightly heavier
threat OF some Plain color Thus fine faced
cloth ~ pale stone gray mixture IL crossed by In
distinct lines OF wood brown. The prevalence or
brown t.nts "a everywhere noteworthy. A thread
of delicate clcl bue IL part OF great many
mixtures.
In addition to these faced cloths there are
l!ght-we'ght cheylots with a fine diagonal surface
and In the mixtures known among merchants as
"one and one" the fine thread OF the warp being
solid color. and the crossing threads OF a con-
trusting shade. Thus cloth With a pale chestnut
brown warp IL crossed by pale ciel woof. or
cloth whore the warp is composed o. alternate
threads OF tan and red brown Is crossed by a
wool OF alternate threads OF turquoise and crimson
This mixture produces an effect IN no way bizarre
but a soft attractive gloy OF color.
The old tailor coths We're hard and uncompromis-
ing In color This. added to the rigid lines In which
the frs; tailor gowns were cut. made II unbecom-
ing or trying. The tailor c.pths posscsse Of
Just enough blending OF soft tint with tint and
shade to make taem fascinating and this. added to
the superior elegance Of the cut Of these gowns to-
day has kept them In fashion.
scotch homestnns continue popular although they
are No. longer m mrs. chJice. Ihry are SHOWN IN
prevaiIhs tones o' ee.gc. reddish browns Gray5
uaSues az more hrhiIant cGIois mus chestnut
brown warp Is mi>cd with ia hes ~ orange or navy
threads Of white woof: a Havana brown warp
il frightened by the mixture o; n ce.-blue woof
knots OF pale blue over its surface There are a
great many blues among the new homespuns These
with black chcs,uu,-brown or black and white.
and sometimes with III three OF these colors. The
with chrstnut-brown Wi. black and white.
There are many med!um-brown shades
shown In halrlincs and fine herring bone stripes CT
CK or S on r sr from or isiss DasT
inS used Tor mems wear. except that they are
s6@s n w@s. nre shown h
seasons goods mixtures OF color. With raised
ir.se threads figuring taeir surface. mus nlark
duh red viii be figured In an Irregular way IN black
or golden brown The new mohariike w ,,o, ,na NAT
sioc ecru and other shades with indstinct lines OF
pale color.