New-York tribune., 1896-10-25
PARIS FASHIONS.
,,,,oprANCE OF TRIAfM1NG-GOwNs
OF CLOTH ARE TUCKED-THE
USE OF FUR.
Paris, October Il.


Paris. October II.
..so, advances. the Importance OF trim
~ ' sized as a salient feature OF the sea-
"'"e -. - The narrowing skirts and tho natural
wv ,,,.,,, cf the sleeves as an accompaniment
,.lrad of for 50 long before they reaiiy arrived
W.. ,,,ay nsro hardly IN the nature OF surprise
, :, e uossble now to quite ignore the TACT 'ha'
y.ar ago we we're wearing odioo'' e'eeNos oi
80. rodo,s in skirts. But compare the op-'o-oate
man! - ,,a moment with the extreme OF tho
- 9 .velve,nonth ago, and the result "ii
fnou U ,o .-oter,ert so often advart &c now ny the
.,,,r,ares that II has been many years SINCE sue"
,oarked difference was possi"ie'
', ,e always difficult 10 soy JUST "ia' Is or Is no'
..r.,a,sh,s The scope Of the modes is really much
ia-'s -. r-orrs ,han is generally assumed and
" ~ lr,vs broad enough TO allow the exercise OF
"a, 10 nor,sl,tv Il his partially IS governed by
.a ,,s.e Anything that has once r"seu - suie
- hscoroe pas see which means IN the worst
.,. and IN this sense crepon as H'a'erla' 10 hot
80 go NV. nor Is eornfower blue as color 10 De
"o''. NV" rxc,ntiny the few things that have |
s 80. ,,,,oorizod by an ovcr-fondness for them, ,
s.,s M co,or OF material that is out OF date
,9ooa there is no longer one centre or dictator
q. =, tbe davs OF the supremacy OF "or'i' anu 'i'e
-;o,,. establishments that ere Ills iia'u'ai He.s
49,, "a diversity their models rs nuch as P0ss'o'e'
Esl;x may give you blouse bodice seer P'i"pa
sr f,,r, or Redfern fitted basque but each re-
~, 49, ,ba ca,het OF the particular house, ana I
..rafre ri style one furrier proclaims chinch'!'a
. ~. ,ha nr.sent rage another has MADE MS res'
models in sable while your dressinskcr may aoN'>e
trimming OF erniine. The Same Is true III 'esa'"
-. coor lor there is really 10 supFeIHei! ias"io'-
sble color If one were to dress iasihon-p,a'e
dol there need be 10 particula? anxiety resa'oihs
tba coior chcsen. Navy blue Is worn now more
-, 1, bas been for several years. but SO is dark
,nor many shades Of purple and rrune, black aad
d,rr red by English women, although hardiy oy
p.rcnch uoondaines. except for purely country Gus
tures. ~ AN,
The ialors may turn cut some plain sk'T's st''''
b,, they arc more apt 10 make braided ones o. 10
,~ir- them with IA. bias bands or rows OF oeep
,rcks: and Jackets va!s,coats ard basGues are all
,rnannooted With couureres the rage Tor trim
ming Is carried much further anl admits Oh con-
siderable scope for originality. This does ava!
roh much Of ihe saneness san in the costumes
of las. wear One may easily choose gown out OF
ree ha!f-dozen models shown BY the dressmakei
aad have /, trimmed in such different manner
iast ore is not easily able 10 classify il as COPY
~ such or such model al wcN-knoWn pace
4t the same time it must te borne in mind that
,he trimming used must suit the general style ana
character of The gown.
H. choosing gowns for description this week those
have been selected thai show scnne originality IN
trimming stree, gown Tor instance. has smai
hab.;-like skir, OF a p.nksh shade Of tan cIoth'
something q little different from the usual face
cloth, for the surface has a silky gloss wn!ch l.
var; attractive The skirt is embroidered II
scroll paiteir. accomplished Is means or set-ih
figures Of foliage-zreen mrolr velvet. surrounded
hy delicate fo;tern done in black silk braid ne
Tauera extending aiou; the bottom OF the skirt
and in delicate embroidery up The SIDE seams
The fa,-h;tcd wals,coa, is OF the tan and en-
trodered with the black braid alone. over TINS i
worn a fitted jacket OF green velvet. The simple
form Of this jacket IS rather novel There are no
z
meet a, the bust: and then turn sharply away
again to the hips The Jacket fits the figure snug
ly and has short. scanty rufle below the waist
= On each side are three large gold and Jet button
the Top one a, the bust apparently fastening inc
Jacket 10 the waistcoat The choker has ruche of
deep ec.u lace n The back and q scarf cravat of
black satin passing twice about the neck and tying
IN a square bow under tho chin. These cravat
bows with or without tho lace frlls above, are
much used this season. They arc chic, ont
wo.uly unbecoming 20 a short thick neck.
useful idea in t,e Jacket suits 70 be worn IN
winter is 10 have close sleeves Of a thin. warm WOO!
attached TO the waistcoat, both for warmth ana
70 keep the satin lining OF the Jacket nice. No out
side garment except tiny fur neck AFFAIR can
properly be with such a costume. There Is
heat fur collar in vogue Just now which looks well
when untastened. displaying the fancy cravat bow
There is no suggestion Of a cape TO H. about the
throat be.nS simply high straight band turning
In wings about the face, while long stole ends
hang down In front.
An elaborate visiting toilet has skirt OF purple
more cut into squares about foot from the heH'
The squares edged with the fashionable chn
chia. and the lower part OF the skirt is or purp'
velvet in deeper shade than that shown IN th'
Six The sleeves ard shor; figaro JACKET are o.
The purple velvet. and show soft front OF many
ra$lss Of embroidered null In q delicate shade o
yellow. A hgh rolling collar rises from the jacket
and both collar and Jacket sides are edged VIII
FUR. The sides Of the collar are apparently con
nsctsd by a band Of yellow satin arranged IN sol
folds and similar band makes sash at IN
waist line With this Is sometimes worn rufne
boa o. chinchi,la fur, arranged with stinened fan
o. yellow lace This passes about the throat an
hangs almost 10 tie knees in front. Rufiles OF III
are one Of the freaks Of the season but. fortunate
". one Of the happy eccentrcities OF Mihe Id Moo'
An evening gown of white arrnure SILK is u''ni"e
With gold embroidery and rose chihon. mere at
two deep slashings up the front OF the sK'rt an
shorter ones about the sides and back. THESE al
EDGED by thick ruching CT yellow lace. ana III
nashings allied in by accordion ,ern pea1dns dose
yss nois msousseine dc soie hea1y sna White sill
'Hxns nc lines cut IN the i 5Kr sof ic scaTf plec,
oyn Souse M Of the pink chiiom WIrn nointed deco
!ssge About the shoulders y bertha LIZ sne roi
ss ss 0ssD sss fSHpse es s sk eST
@ being edged by fr Of narrow w, laGf ibe 70 ,dcs
svDn' II be 1neso sk. coatsas na are ADDED
gs Of sodembrodersd silk. trimmed, .ik'
eiu Win oi lnCS saoh.s, no
reeves are OF the silk, with only Few incnes sior W
mg below the bertha. At the elbows Is an , en
%eldered cuff with one heavy lace jabot hans,t
rom the outside. This little tabot covering :,
very elbow is useful for few women have pret
sDxs 0xs and yet graceful effect Is n,Tg a,%sys COW "
mst above the elbow. II that little Joint that ~
R % DC red can be prettly covered ,nIv taht ' q
sne clusters OF fiat folds or tucks previously "a
xxped are being used extensively on cloth cow
d. s1ectiye visiting costume has three , 4n '"v m
Ssp ZIP tucks about the bottom OF me skill, skirt az
rsee more arranged In a cluster q little aDove !,
S.s.es The bodice is composed OF four deep tuca
Mst,t2 20 the figure In the back, and extending out
nsxs N.Y. IN front. These short enough 10 snow
NssI NisI ,atted) basque OF satin that makes snG
iuy.e-ike point fro1t and back. The clotn ooai ii