The Republican journal., 1896-09-17
New York Fashions.
Independent Waists; sleeves and Skirts: New
Dress Materials; Checks PIalds Millinery;
Fall Capes OOlOrs.
Correspondence of The journal. |


Correspondence of The Journal |
War has been declared against the in
dependent waist, as its popularity Injuries
dressmakers and manufacturers: but
whether they will be able to dislodge it
is another question. The great superior
ity of suits will be enlarged upon this
fall, and so far new illustrations certainly
tend in that direction. Five yards will
be about the average width of skirts, and
a coat sleeve with large or medium
sized puff at the top is the only fall
style yet introduced Basques with
short skirts are in the majority, and vest
fronts relieve sombre hues, or tone down
bright colors
PLAIN FABRICS
are at great discount among new dress
materials, and broadcloths or covert
suitings stand almost alone; the larger
proportion being combinations and con-
trasts of rich hues. blended in hair-line
stripes, broken checks, Scotch mixtures
VI Ioul-l loHC SuSCkS. W ulCu dIG pIOIul-
nent among novelties shown by the lead
ing house of Lord 4. Taylor More ex-
pensive goods are silk and wool mixtures
and a variety called "Marguerite," show
ing an all-rep velour weave as foundation,
upon which is thrown up in slken threads
very delicate figures of every stylish hue
n com hipotjnO and uhic1, &c ~, n,
attractive from its refined appearance.
ANOTHER DISTINCT STYLE
has fine pin head spots on colored grounds
over which are scattered jacquard fig
ures in silk and mohair The French
always have a name for their fabrics, and
the one Just described they call Ram
bouillet,' and a third with plaid canvas
ground thickly strewn with colored
knots and curled threads, they term
"Savigny" Plaids are in strong de
mand, and certainly no other material is
available in 50 many different ways,
which probably accounts for its popu-
larity,
MEDIUM SIZED CoLoHEn FELT
edged by velvet cord, will be most
judieious purchase this fall and if desir-
ed, it may be almost covered with trim
ming. Small felt shapes are very stylish
as well, and many small hats consist of
velvet folds, touching each other, with
trimming massed high or low. as the CASE
may be.
Niroir, stamped or plain velvet are the
leading millinery materials, and ostrich
or cog feathers may fairly be piled on hats,
with ribbon and a large steel buckle in
addition. Plumage enjoys special favor,
and twenty quilts are sometimes used On
one hat combined with other trimmings.
Velvet striped, changeable, OF satin rib
bons with a surah back are very largely
used in high loops, and as many hats have
high bell crowns such trimmings become a
necessity
SOFT CROWNS
will be even more fashionable than they
were last winter, and embroidered vel
vets are brought out by the piece for this
purpose. Home millinery, however. is
not usually success where soft crowns
are concerned as the folds must be artis-
tically laid or they are worse than moth
ing. Steel buckles rank first in metal
ornamentation, and their size is astonish-
ing to eyes unaccustomed to extremes.
Chine velvet ribbon is very elegant, at the
same time so expensive that it can never
be generally used. 1t comes from four to
seven inches wide, the latter width re-
failing at $50 per yard.
FALL N q aEs