The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-07-12
The Man Is
Judged by His
Linen and Tie

For business or morning wear the three
buttoned sack coat is the most popular,
the waistcoat and trousers being of the
same fabric. A waistcoat of brown linen
is preferred by some men and is perfectly
correct. Such waisscoats have bone but
tons. With such suits are worn square
foed, laced, black leather or russell shoes,
and colored shirts. with white, standing
all-around, rundown collar. Pinhead
and birdseye patterns are used with much
satisfaction for such suits. correspon-
dent states that for the next three months
the latest cloth is of an indescribable
mixture, and a few yards away the mate
rial has the appearance of plain cloth.
The trousers are loose and straight at the
top and taper toward the foot.
The correct evening dress has the low
cut U-shaped waistcoat. The suit is of
smooth Vicuna cloth, although Sedan
cloth is increasing in favor. 1t is elastic
and well liked in London. The coat has a
notch collar, silk facing 20 within an inch
of buttonholes. 1t is square cut in front,
the square-cut tails reach to Just above
the knees. The shirt has two buttons
(either pearl or enamel can be used), the
collar is straight stand-up one, the tie
white-of plain white cambria rather
stiffiy starched, the ends are square.
Some prefer white pique, but when so en-
ployed it must be absolutely plain.
The somewhat pointed pumps are of
patent leather and the hose of black silk.
The white gloves, stitched with white,
and the crush hat complete the costume.
The black cape overcoat shown is liked
by many better than the Inverness cape.
1t is comfortable garment and sensible.
| However, the Inverness will never 20 out
| of fashion.
Several young men have lately been
wearing black satin waistcoats with their
! Tuxedo coats. However, this is probably
only passing fad.
A man may have to wear a shabby coat
| but il you want to place him look at his
linen and his tie; they speak more loudly
than words, and it is a fact that many
give too little attention especially to the
selection of ties. Concerning Ascots in
soft white pongee silk and pique, as they
abound, it is we'll to note that they make
a very pretty effect with a straight stand
ing collar and frock coat. They are tied
with slight bouffant puff and the stick
| pin-to-day pearls or plain gold being
most fashionable-is placed little distance
below the meet of the aprons. Narrow
four-in-hands of soft silk or pongee make
also very smart tie, but do not care for
them so much in bows. / have seen
much light brown or buff pongee neck
wear. which looks cool, neat and inviting.
Cotton and linen ties will be in all col
ors and designs and patterns imaginable.
In these days of bright-hued shirts and
waistcoats great care should be taken not
to make too vivid contrast of color.
Walking rain bows or kaleidoscopes are
ridiculous. Many men have their ties
made to match their shirts, and still others
wear dark blues, solid brown, pink or
bluffs. Cotton ties in one color are better
form than those in patterns.
The cotton tie is now worn en- neglige,
with the most informal CT lounge suits,
and in the country. In midsummer one
can wear anything, and then bring out
your cotton tie. Any color, even white, is
allowable. c..