The Canton times. (Canton, Miss.) 1893-1906, 1896-11-27
FEMININE FASHIONS.
| New Styles and Materials for the LnAc
| Autumn.

4
Comparing the costumes and models
that are now arriving in the best shops
with the statements of many OF those
who are supposed to know what is what
in the fashionable world, is rather
amusing business. Assurances have
been given that very tight sleeves Will
be worn, and that skirts are to be
much more elaborate than heretofore
Looking over the ground, we find very
large sleeves, not perhaps containing
quite as much cloth in the sleeve proper
as those of six or eight months ago, but
still large enough to disprove the state
ments of many of the prophets and en-
tirely relieve the mind of any apprehen-
sion lest an entire reconstTuctlng Oh
last years dresses will be necessary
The important change in sleeves con-
sists in slight contraction at the tops
and faring cuffs, with great deal of
trimming of various sorts. One dressy
costume has the cuffs cut in leaf-shaped
points, lined with satin and stiffened
with very thin whalebone, which has
been pressed SO that the sleeve-points
curve back almost in the shape of an
Easter lily. Inside of these points
there are rlff1es and ruffles of
crepe lisse or lace. In one dress
seven yards of lace edging were
sewed in the sleeves at the wrists.
A more simple style had fine side plait-
ing of taffeta, made double, with very
narrow lace at the edge.
A favorite fashion for new sleeves is
a velvet sleeve, rather close, with, a
drapery of brocade or other material
of which the costume is made. A dress
of this sort is of large-fowered brocade.
The waist is in coat basque fashion.
There is very wide turned-over collar
and lapel of velvet, velvet corselet
with large rosette bow with long ends,
and velvet standing collar with bow
at the back. The velvet sleeves are
moderately close-ftting, and there are
voluminous d1aperies of the brocade
caught up front and back and falling
over the arms to the elbows.
Another bodice for dressy costume
has very deep yoke Of velvet with
satin lapels edged with elaborate en-
broidery. The sleeve tops have some
what the effect of enormous soft bows.
the loops being nearly half yard
across their outer edges. The gathered
part comes Immediately at the top of
the sleeve, the fullness falling eitherway.
A very stylish autumn street costume
of Priestley camel's-hair has moderate
sized leg-o'-mutton sleeves, over the
tops of which are long pointed sections
of velvet sewed down to the camePs
hair. These are put on before the
sleeve is made. There are three of
these sections, and they occupy the en-
tire upper half of the sleeve at the
shoulder, then separate into points that
go over the tullness of the sleeve to
the elbows. The tops are gathered in
as usual, making nearly as much full
ness as dressmakers have been in the
habit of using.
As to skirts, while there are trim
mings used to some extent, they are by
no means universal, nor are they likely
to be during the coming winter. There
is little doubt but that spring styles
will show elaborate skirt trimmings,
but just now such garnitures are con-
spicuous by their absence. Especially
is this notable in view of the announce
ments that have been made.
The separate waist is quite as much
q feature as heretofore. With the ex-
ception of dresses of ceremony, few
princess costumes and some tailor
made suits, the rule of difference pre-
walls. Skirts of wooden material, vel
vet, velveteen, corduroy, bengaline and
heavy silks are standard articles. With
these are worn waists of every degree
Of elaborateness and almost every i'm
aginable combination. 1t is a fact
worthy of remark that black skirts are
more universally worn than ever be-
lore. Out of so costumes noted on
public thoroughfare, about seven were
If other than black material. This. of
course, applies to the autumn styles.
Many ladies cling to their late sum-
ner fabrics, and a thick linen skirt
S occasionally seen. The early winter
models are shown in extremely pretty
tyles. A dress of biscuit-coIored
10th is made up with olive velvet and
ATTN matching the cloth in color.
there is plain flaring skirt without
The waist is of the cloth,
With wide corselet belt made of folds
# the velvet. An Eton jacket of the
elvet has wide lapels that run to the
oints of the jacket at the waist-line.
inside of these lapels are cutaway
ronts trimmed with gold braid. These
ronts close at the throat, and are very
lightly open over the bust; the sleeves
re of the cloth and close-fitting.
)raperies of velvet fastened with
osettes at the front and back entire