The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-08-09
BELM0NT'S INVENTION.
UNsTARCHED WHITE SHIRTS At
NEWPORT.
Walter HObarrs Deep Turnover
COlIar-Depew brings 'sNew Gray"
60 America, silver shade That
shines In the Dark-Noung Pal
mer's Invention I'm Sweaters.

You see many soft-fronted shirts upon
the street Not only upon rural visitors.
to town. whose amateur stimening melts
away before the sun, but upon people
you know-men who follow the fashions
closely and would sooner go undressed
than badly dressed.
The scft-bosomed shirt originated, Il Is
declared. with that well dressed man. o.
II. =. Belmont, who either was the father
to the style or its importer At all events.
he was the first man to wear II In this
country He introduced II at Newport.
and the hasty way II was taken up by
a Boston furnisher and made popular
shows that it has in 1t that grain Of sense
necessary TO any style that is going to
be much In vogue.
The soft-fronted shirt Is as carefully
Numbered as it's predecessor. but IL has
no bosom" The front is laid In plaits
or is perfectly plain and rather full 1t
buttons down the front with the finest
white pearl buttons of quite large size.
The bow cravat is worn with II, and
sometimes you see the black stock. The
collar is the regulation white one, tail
and turned over. These soft white come
in fine batlste and in plain white The
latter are very dressy.
Every man who has not abandoned a
boiled shirt for the negligee, with its
sef-made collar, has been Impressed with
the style of the new turn over collars.
They are as high as the standing ones,
and from a distance look very much like
them. The front is, however. different,
being smaller in it's opening. This new
high turn over turns down In the back
much further than the old style, and can
be worn without a coat, with fancy shirt
and belt.
This collar was first worn by Walter
Hobart the young Californian who par
alyzed an eastern college with his racing
string last year. and surprised society
this year with his brilliant Pacific coast
marriage. Young Hobart had his collars
built this way to please himself The
turn over part was made deep in the back
to cover the gold button. The front be-
ing tail, opened only little at the points,
just enough for the smallest black tie
to be visible.
The correct golfing suit for late sum
mer is the russell and white. The russell
is combination Of the c0lors of the first
falling leaf The Duke of York, who will
make a very dressy Prince Of Wales, or
dered one for golf game to be played
with some Of the Danish princes in Eng
land for Maud of Wales wedding. Get
something for fall-like this" and he
inclosed a leaf that came fluttering into
the windows of York cottage at Sandrlng-
ham.
The tailor's order when executed showed
a russell and white plaid suit, with cap to
match. Stockings and tie were bright
scarlet, and the gaiter tops of white doe
skin--to be cleaned with pipe clay The
color Is called york russell"
Chauncey Depew's steamer suit, when
he came back from Europe by cable des-
patch in Mr.. Vanderbilt's Illness was a
symphony in new gray" This color is
now beginning 10 be seen, It has silver
threads In It, ana the peculiar quality Of
shining i'm the dark. A new gray visor,
new gray spats and black silk handker-
chief made our Chauncey look particular
ly "peachy" in view of the fact that this
shade of gray brings out every vestige Of
pink that Is in the complexion.
Young Mr.. Potter Palmer who Is con-
sidered one of the summers best "catca-
es, is said to have invented a new sweat
err. 1t is Of two-sided cotton and wool.
The inside is white cotton, the outside OF
colored wool. The cotton keeps away the
creepy feeling of the sweater and provided
wool for warmth and absorption. The best
color, to be in the fashion, Is a poppy
red with touch of the white lining
showing under the chin. Pale lilac sweat
ers are worn for full dress"
In these days Of bicycling the young
man who wheels from town to town to
attend an evening entertainment must
be provided with way OF being dressy
and showing proper respect to his hostess
With the thermometer at 80 and the air
at humidity's excess point he canpd
wheel in a Numbered shirt. The sweater
must be worn. And for these occasions
lilac mauVe, shrimp cerise and turquoise
blue are provided. The material Is very
fine and the garment very becoming
The Kaiser Wilhelm has been astonish-
ing mer-Germany with his lounging
and yachting suits, and, though reiuct-
g.-ar1 sl,.
copies Of them. That they are "good''
none OF the great houses that are dress
authorities can deny.
one of these lounging suits was a fawn
color, with shirt of blush yellow, and tie
to match. out of the pocket stuck a
bright yellow silk handkerchief. The
band upon the straw hat was bright yell
low and the hat almost a fawn shade.
When yachting for pleasure the emperor
wore a greenish blue yachting suit, q
white cap and tan shoes. An Alpine hat
of snow-white he wore with suit Of gray
linen duck.
The Duke of Marlborough Is RESPONSE
BILE for a new style this summer. This
is the undressed kid glove. He wears
them in a new shade called coffee yellow,
which is really a red brown. 1t Is the
color of coffee when 1t comes out of the
pot rich, strong, red brown. The seams
OF these gloves are heavily stitched In
self color and the stitching upon the back
is OF the same. The Duke wears no 9TH
of Manchester, who comes to America
soon.
The high shoe is but little worn by men
cyclers. The low shoe, fitted with elastic
at the sides and tall at front and hack,
is liked by many men with well-shaped
feet But, as the majority of masoulinity
are a little sensitive about their insteps,
and as this shape increases the number
of inches from heel to toe. the low tie Is
liked better. There is buckled tie which
gives the foot a graceful look, and
plain tie which makes 1t trifie stubby,
but is very comfortable. The fancier the
stockings the better, and If black stock
ings are insisted upon, for any reason.
like uneven calves, then the tops may
bloom like the rose, every color being
combined.
Knockers are not quite so full as they
were, but are baggier at the knees. Their
bottoms are very broad.
1t Is said that Ii Hung Chang has writ
ten ahead to a New York tailor to have
certain dress and promenade suits ready
for him upon his arrival. and that the tail
or is torn between conflicting emotions.
Shall he have the clothes in the height Of
style or shall he consult LIS complexion
apd probable taste? One of the suits is
pear yellow. almost green.
To originate a fashion Is the hight OF
London mans ambition. An American, on
the contrary, is a little abashed at so much
noforiety. But il isn't so bad, after all,
a. rr..a Il NHa.T rtarIa