The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-11-01
IN HOLsTEIy FASHION.
A New Sauce Invented for tho Wiener
schnitzeI. AustrIa's National Dish.

A New Sauce Invented for tho Wiener
schnitzei. AustrIA's National Dish.
In Chapter 10 Of the "Physiologie du Govt"
by Brillat-Savarin, appears the following def
milton by that standard authority of what are
called gastronomlc tests:
BY gastronomic tests or gauges we mean dishes OF
acknowledged tavor. and OF such indisputable eI-
cellencc that the mere sight OF them, to a man OF
healthy organization, moves every faculty OF taste.
In German restaurants OF tho better class. or
rather of the more ex expensive variety for in tho
science of gastronomy. taste, not expense, rules
the stew rs well as the roast-HolsteiH sauce Is
quite popular nowadays. and the national dish
of Austria, 50 TO speak, wiener schnitzel, when
served 4 la Holstein, has n most appetizing
flavor. though Holstcin is many miles from the
beautiful blue Danube Of song and poetry. II not
OF cold fact, and tho Nienncse COOKS. in the So
lection OF titles for fancy dishes. are more In
clined to turn Franceward us the region OF cult
nary art than toward the fiat, agricultural
lands of goose-and. grain Holstein. Sauce d 10
Holstein has for it's primary element, so to
speak, a rich. brown gravy. Then there are two
anchovies in Difference, perhaps, TO Holstein's
Distinction rs n rendezvous Tor i-hsrlhen-ahu
young lettuce chopped fine. and tho outlet of
Dreaded veal has upon II one egg, such Is Hoi-
stein sauce. and tins description OF II may recall
The 0 pIsy te" "Tho old home.te " Wien the
New Hampshire farmer, Joshua Uhtt"omb. left
tlS ilbIlc Hl h'NIt NV hi'o " ~" va W
look for his Maynard son, he missed very much
some OF, the familiar and traditional New Eng
land dishes. ana he yearned ut times for Boston
baked beans. Entering q prcionttous New
York restaurant Uncle Joshua scrut'nized tho
list printed in French rntii his eye fell upon
''Heansh la Boston" He says IN thr play that
he took them. the beans being all right. but the
"a la Boston" not being up 20 the New England
standard. IL was in fact u culinary innovation
OF which he was not able Ia approve.
In like manner. wiener sChnltzel 4 la Hol.
stein Is something OF u rarity, for almost from
time i"minrmorial Vienna cooks have served
veal outlets. Dreaded, with tomato sauce, the
combination of the two being regarded as indis-
soluble. and In fact Indispensable, The appear
hnCe OF the Holstcin sauce may he said, ihere-
fore, TO be somewhat OF an lnnoyation. and he
II an adventurous man Indeed who seeks To e-
tAhliSh any innovations in the cooking rules
which relate 10 national dishes or dishes which
have come TO he accepted as national. Wiener
schnitzel Is rs thoroughly Austrian ns beef d Ia
mode is French, roast beef English, pot roast
German. and Dublin stew Irish. One Of the
Emperors of Rome some say Nero-miIed
grated cheese with his C.aret, and set at deli
AnCe thereby many Of the culinary rules of tho
Romans. But the mixture Of cheese and wine
never became accepted as a national one, even
In the Roman emuire. whereas wiener schnitzel
Ia az much u part OF Austrian national cooking
as the arms OF the house OF HapsbuTg are rep.
resentative Of tho imperial family at Vienna.
Whether the innovation, sRyOry and vaTiegated,
OF weinGr schnitZel a In HOlstein Will be endur-
ing IA II question which, perhaps. may be best
answered by those who have tasted It.