Lewiston teller. [volume] (Lewiston, North Idaho) 1878-1900, 1896-05-28

undergo, we can
raise an abundant
supply of apples, the next question that
interests us is how to make the most
economical use of the fruit we have
learned to grow. Nearly all the varie-
ties our State Society is. thus far, will
ing to recommend, are fall and early
winter sorts. The only really hard all
winter keeper outside the trial list is
the Malinda. and that is handicapped
with two important failings. First, 1t Is
an extremely tardy bearer, and, second,
1t is of only secondary hardness. very
bad combination for this climate.
Ii our orchards are like most of those
already fruiting, bearing only the fall
varieties. like the Duchess, we still do
not need to be without home grown
apples for good share of the year. il
we live near town where there is
cold storage plant, for we find that II
the fruit is picked with great care, just
as soon as ripe and placed in cold stor-
age. without any bruises or rough hand
ling. it will keep till after mid-winter
in perfect condition. Indeed. the
Duchess makes a far more palatable
eating apple when kept in this manner
than it is when freshly picked from the
tree
We find also that barrel of Duchess
taken from cold storage in January will
keep without decay for several weeks
in an ordinary cool house cellar. We
have paid Is cents per barrel per month
for the small quantities we have had
so stored. and. considering the poor
quality and high price Of the apples
usually found in our markets. we have
generally found it an economical ven
ture. But our people are now begin
ming to have quite little surplus Of
the Wealthy, and are likely to soon
have still larger quantities of the Hi
bernal and Longfield varieties. that in
our latitude may. with proper treat
ment. be kept until February, but with
careless and ignorant handling may be
half spoiled in month after gathering.
None of these rich, mellow varieties will
keep until cold weather If allowed to
drop on the ground before picking. The
same care should be taken in handling,
as with the summer fruit, and all wormy
and diseased apples rejected.
After the apples have been properly
picked, the common mistake is made
of placing them Immediately in the cell
lar. which at this time of year is the
worst possible place. A clean, cool
shed or clubhouse is the best place for
them until there is danger of freezing
weather, when they may be removed to
the cellar for the winter. 1t is probably
best to allow the boxes or barrels to
remain open for few days after plac-
ing in the shed, but they should soon be
closed up tight to prevent too much
drying out and to protect from rats.
mice and the boys.
We have not tried straw shed. but
have been told that such are cooler and
preserve much more even temperature
than a board shed. and we are SO far
convinced of it's merits that we propose
to try a straw shed next season. A moist
cellar is preferable to a dry one for
keeping apples. Indeed. one excellent
Western authority says that d cellar
cannot be too moist for apples. We can
not close without word o. encourage
ment to orchardists IN Southern Mime
sofa. We have within the past few
weeks seen numbers of fine, healthy
trees Of the Duchess. Wealthy and the
better varieties Of crabs on the prairies
more than a hundred miles northwest
Of where we are to-day. Many of these
trees measure two feet in circumfer-
ence of stem and are bearing very
profitable crops.
We found one orchard alone in Yellow
Medicine county from which there was
sold 5000 worth of apples in one season.
If SO much has been accomplished on
the God-forsaken, wind-swept prairies,
intended only Cor the home Of the grass
hopper and buffalo, what shall be said
of the farmer in grand old Mower coun-
ty, who has not sand and sense enough
to raise an orchard for his own comfort,
and for his boys and girls to enjoy and
look back upon in later years as the
pleasantest spot in the dear old nome
stead.-C. Wedge in Farmers Review.
budding and Grating
II the apple trees which C. Andrews
wishes to bud are small ,one inch or less
in diameter at the ground. he can get
trees one year sooner by grating than
by budding. TIE time for budding in
this latitude is July or about the time
when the new growth is completed,
and must be performed before the sap
goes down, so that the bark will not
peel readily. To bud, take a sharp
knife and make a cut with the point
Of the blade downward on the stock.
about one and half inches long, then
make cut across the upright cut,
turning the back Of the blade out SO as
to open the upper ends Of the bark.
II the bark doesn't open readily use
quill to open 1t. Cut bud from a
twig OF the new growth, about one
inch long, cutting down and taking a
very thin slico of ,uaod NTH ths, ia.l.