davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

shoulders, and there forms a sharp
point on each side the bust, and then
it meets in the middle under a double
bow of ribbon with long ends. The
collar is made in the same way, with
bow at the back. Dropping gigot
sleeves are worn with this tasteful and
graceful gown. The model was made
in ruby cashmere. Some of the print
ed cashmeres and challies make lovely
lounging robes, and so do the outing
fannels. These outing fannels are a
real boon 20 womankind, they are so
useful, Sc pretty and so cheap
There is to be a great-run on wash
silks. The Japan corded wash silks,
and the Japanese checked taffetas are
new and very handsome. There are
among the novelties in silks, jacquard
taffeta and quadrilles, checked taffetas
and taffeta jacquard check. There
are plain Silks in evening and street
shades, any number of creponS, crepeS
and pongees. The black satin dam
ask is rich and heavy, and black taft
feta silks in thick, firm quality will
be much worn. Surah is in again and
is shown in excellent quality. Surah
was always an excellent silk, as it is
rich, flexible, durable and never grows
shiny no matter how much wear it
gets.
Gloves show wide silk embroidered
backs and include all the prettiest
shadeS-English red, tan, black, mode
brown, slate and pearl white They
are made with from two to six buttons
or clasps for DAY wear and to reach the
sleeve in the evening styles, however
long the sleeve is. The moSquetaire
shape for them is the best and most
fashionable. Mate Leroy.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

gray and mixed whipcords, tweeds and
cheViots, all tailor finished, with neat,
snug waists and jaunty REFER jacket to
match, and all these materials we all
know are standard goods and all wool.
They were offered at from $40 to $12 for
the whole suit. There was a choice be-
tween ught-fitting basque waists and
those with norfolk plaits to each suit
These are English style. Then there
were other hundreds of other imported
suits wherein cheviots, cloths, tweeds
and camei's hair were combined with
silk, either in plaid or drenden or pom
padour design. These suits were COM
posed OF three garments-skirt, basque
and some sort OF Jacket. These Jackets
vary in style. Some are regular coats,
with pockets with wide flaps and deep
cuffs TO the sleeves and sharply pointed
reveTs- The revers, cuffs, and vest are
of the coIored silks, and in a. few in
stances the lower front seams of the
skirt are slashed to show an inset of
the silk These costumes are silk-Ened
and beautifully finished and are Offer
ed at $40 fog three garments.
In the spring jackets, where they are
separated from the costume, we find
black beaver boucle short coats, with
full ripple backs and with slashed and
storm collars. There are also box
coats id dozens of styles Of finish and
trina, the new Eskimo cloth being for
the moment the favorite Melton cloth.
beaver cloth, plain black tibet, boucle
and peTsiena, and also fine diagonal
rough cheviots all have immense
sleeves wherein all the seams are strap
ped and stitched. These garments are
all silk-lined, with enormous collars
and cuffs Of inIaid or applique velvet
III have more or less fur trimming
Handsome cloth trimmed with fur is
thought by many to be really more
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

black or brown willow This is orna-
mented with bow of gay satin ribbon
and cluster of flowers fine enough to
be worn on a hat. These baskets are
not confined to the holding of sugar
pluns, but are used for fruit, laces
and jewels even, and also for holding
embroidery and other delicate fancy
work
Among other manifestations of this
rustic freak is the decoration of
coarse clay pottery of the usual brown
or gray tint, with trimmings and appli-
cations of silver in the form of handles.
knobs for the cover and ornamental
patterns on the body OF the article.
Shoe dealers seem to be doing a driv-
ing trade in the immensely high-Iaced
leather boots for women bicyclists
They reach to the knee and may be had
in black and in various shades of tan
How any one can ride comfortably with
them is a wonder, for they seem almost
as rigid as a plaster cast. There is real
ly nothing SO easy for riding footwear
as shoe, which allows the ankle fuIJ
play and confines none Of the muscles
of the leg.
Comparatively few women bicycle in the
winter. although where there are good roads
and no snow winter Is one of the pleasantest
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

for house wear, but now one sees il
great many of them on the street.
~ handsome one which | saw on a
chic woman several days ago was made
with many godets and dared out smart
ly all about the bottom. 1t was lined
with olive green silk
With it was worn a cream-colored
brcadcloth jacket. very natty and styl-
ish, with strapped seams and huge gigot
sleeves. 1t fitted the figure snugly and
was short and full about the hips.
sealskin collarette with a very high
standing collar was worn about the
shoulders, and a large sealskin muff
was carried in the woman's white
gloVed hands.
The hat was an unusual looking af-
fair smothered in great rosettes of va
rious colored Velvets; one was of deep
cerise, one of green, one OF deep laVen-
der and another of rich prune color
they were crowded together into q
brilliant beautiful mass out of which
sprang two iridescent wings and a
tall, thick aigrette of black satin ribbon.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
SMART OPERA WRAPS.
The Empire style IL Favored by
Women Of Good Taste.

Opera wraps in the Empire style are
very popular. Something new and
striking was an Empire wrap with con
spicuously large bishop sleeves. 1t was
made of brocade, delicate green in col
or, wrought with conventional de-
sign in gold. The brocade hung in
graceful, loose folds, and from a bril-
Hantly jeweled band, which outlined
the yoke. This band was of gold
woven cloth, studded with varying
shades of green stones. The short yoke
and large bishop sleeves were of black
velvet. The cuff which finished the
sleeve was a novelty well worth de-
scribing. 1t consisted of a large far
ing gauntlet, cut in tabs, which were
Joined together with tiny gold clasps.
A very high Medici collar of Black
ostrich tips completed this novel wrap.
Many of the fashionable opera coats and
capes are made this year with the historical
Marie Antoinette hood. This hood is sure
to attract attention wherever it appears. A
charming little opera wrap of old rose and
white matelasse cloth is made with three
hood lined with a becoming shade of rose
satin. Opera capes. which hang perfectly
square in Henry II. fashion are also much
in vogue. Both ermine and chinchilla are
costly wraps. In fact, nothing is too luxu-
rious in the way CT an evening cloak to wrap
around the shoulders of the society woman Of
today.
When she wears her opera coat she covers
her head with Spanish lace shawl or some
flrly affair of chiffon exquisitely embroid-
cred. or perhaps she pulls the spacious Marie
Antoinette hood up over her well-dressed
coiffure. In any case her head is but little
protected. The carriage shoes should be made
CT the same material as her wrap and edged
with fur. The soles are Of soft lambs wool
and the shoes reach triie higher than the
ordinary walking boot.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

elegant than an all fur garment, and
1T is certainly more durable. In capes
there is positively no limit to the va
riety. The velour plush is probably
the richest; next to that comes the
silk velour, with deep sailor collars
all stiffiy trimmed with jet and lined
with Swallowed silk, for all these We
lour capes are intended to look quite
as sumptuous from the inside as the
outside. All these are heavily trimmed
with Alaska sable, black opossum, or
black tibet, or zibeline fur, or black
marten. The fur capes have already
been reduced in price, and handsome
Persian lamb capes and Alaska sable
80 inches long, with wide, full sweep
and i'll extra quality, have been of
fered at S45, where at the beginning OF
the season they We're at $40.
There was cape made for evening
wear of myrtle green velvet, quite long
for one OF that style. There were
branches Of pale green snowbalis en-
broidered upon it, the branches run
hing lengthwise. 1t was lined with a
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

superb quality Of cream MORE figured.
Around the storm collar and down
the front was border of Alaska sable.
This fur lends itself beautifully to
trimming, as it combines with every
thing, and the fur is long and silky
This special cape was irtened to wear
with a heavy salmon peau de sole
gown. Speaking of peau de sole re-
minds NE that this superb silk is now
produced as printed fabric. Here
tofore il has not been. | saw hand
some gown made of it for opera, re-
ception or dinner The body Of the
silk was a sort of slate, with a tangie
Of red, purple and blue flowers, with
foliage over it. The skirt was plain,
but had one large bow of green vel
vet at the bottom. The waist was
plain and round in the back and front.
The front of the waist opened over
vest Of green velvet, with a lace up
per portion. There was a sailor col
lar Of the silk across the back, bound
with the velvet. The sleeves had chat
elaine points down over the hands.
This gown was deliciously quaint.
While very few dresses have waist
and skirt differing, there are still some
made in this way, particularly for
young ladies, and l think there will be
more as the season advances. One was
very odd. 1t had full front of figured
tan SILK. Ihe pack was Oh mOfQOre
brown velvet, with the velvet extending
out on the shoulders in form of a
square figaro, and out under the arms,
something like q swiss waist, leaving
an open space between. The velvet
portions were bordered by two rows OF
fiat gold braid. The dog collar was of
the velvet, with braid. The sleeves to
this bodice were like that in the skirt,
and there was a velvet draped belt
There was still odder one, intended
more for dress occasion than the
other. This was Of a delicate old rose
taffeta, with shell-like glints in it. The
sleeves were puffed to the elbows, and
the front parts were very snug. The
waist itself was plated blouse fashion
to a narrow belt of ribbon, which end
ed in a bow with long ends. Across
the upper part of the bust there was
laid fiat yoke of lace. and upon this
was set a beautiful ornamental ar
rangement of jet. from which depended
fringe. The collar was Of black satin
ribbon, tied in q bow at the back On
each shoulder there was laid a rich
black ostrich plume, studded with jet
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
BEAUTIFUL WOMEN.
marvellous Influence Welded by
Them In All Ages.

Emerson long ago apprchended the
truth when he said: Beauty reaches
ITS perfection in the human form. All
men are its lovers. Wherever it goes
II creates joy and hiIarity. 1t reaches
its height in women"
Our "reminiscences are. therefore.
only the recognition of the tributes
men pay to beauty and when we re-
call the stories Of Pauline de Viguiere.
that virtuous and ACCOMPLISHED maid,
en- of the fifteenth century, who so
Ilfed the enthusiasm Of the people with
heF enchanting face and form that the
civil authorities compelled her by edict
TO appear publicly twice week on
a balcony to allay the excitement, and
the accounts of that other lovely WON
an, Elizabeth Dunning, the duchess
Of Hamilton, Of whom WalpoIe saws
that when she was presented at court
the noble crowd clambered on the ia
bles and chairs to look at her-when
we recall this madness of the world.
1t is not difficult to perceive how the
theater can become the pedestal and
the wand of a beautiful woman.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
FOR TEA DRINKERS.
Some Truths About the Beverage
and the Way 1t Is Used in Russfn.


Russians are great tea consumers,
and the Russian assorters and grad
ers are the most expert in the world.
The grocers of Russia not being ex-
perts sell tea only in sealed packages
and have nothing whatever to do with
Its merits CT dement's. Tea is a deli
cate article, and in Russia it is in the
hands only of those who have thor
oughly studied and mastered it, Rus
STA may be said to be the great-grand-
mother of tea drinking She consumes
ninety pounds of tea to only ten pounds
OF coffee. Coffee is used only by for
elgn-born people. Russia was the first,
and up to date is the only country
which, by botanical training and long
experience, has proven that no tea can
be perfect in hoalthfulness unless the
leaves are separated as near as pos
slble and assorted into different grades.
A tea tree may produce from three to
nine different varieties of leaves, which,
II together, make poor tea of rough
flavor, while. if assorted, each kind
gives certain quality And so Rus
STA has produced skillful tea sorters
1t was also Russia that first pro-
lined chests. Chemical analysis has
demonstrated that tea absorbs the poi
sonous salts of the lead lining. Rus
STA, by devoting so much attention to
her teas, has made them world famous.
The average Russian drinks from
eight to twelve glasses of tea, and yet
the Russians are the healthiest peo-
pie in the world. Tea in Russia is
associated with the refinement and joys
of the home life.
a contented Russian family around
large table with a rich table cloth
Of our own linen, with the steamins
samoVar Cor self-boiler) in the middle.
and crystal glasses with glistening
porcelain saucers around, presents a
picture the home-like effect and charm
ing beauty of which must be seen to
be fully appreciated. In the fall and
WINTER our evening teas last several
hours. the time being passed in play
ing, singing, reading, embroidery, pleas
ant converse ton, etc, while the half
cooled cup of tea waits for each guest
and member of the happy family to
give new strength, livelness and
humor
IN the best tea-growing districts and
takes the first crop only. This crop
IS picked and cured in the early sea
son, when the most intelligent natives
are at leisure. The laborers are di-
v1ded into small groups and are I'M
der the immediate supervision of Rus
sian officials, appointed especially for
that purpose by our government
The division of the laborers into
small groups is that the product OF
each group may be inspected separate
ly to the end that the tea may be
kept clean and it's strength preserved.
And this supervision is exercised with
the eXactness and rigor that character
ICES all the acts of our Russian gov
eminent.
After the crop has been gathered and
packed in cases lined with moisture
proof paper and covered with leather
1t is conveyed to Iliakhta by caravan.
Kiakhta is a small Siberian town in
the state of Irkutsk, 400 yards from
the Chinese frontier. A majority of
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

its inhabitants are Chinese. Whole
sale tea houses are numerous and
owned by Moscow tea kings. In Kiakh-
ia the tea is carefully graded and as
sorted by trained assorters. Some of
these assorters are paid from 5000 to
1900 rubles per year They are ex-
pected never to drink any liquor nor
to smoke in order to well preserve
their palate for the tasting of tea
leaves. After being assorted the tea
is packed in one-half pound and
pound packages, sealed and exported
to all parts of European Russia and
other countries.
The greatest care is taken to avoid
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

the brass bedsteads sold If polished
with anything except a soft cloth the
Lacquer, which is put on to keep the
brass from the action of the air, is
broken. Handles and ornaments on
which the lacquer is worn away may be
restored at slight expense.
A housewife who has suffered from
backache caused by leaning over the
cook stove. which usually stands
several inches too low for comfort in
working, has had her stove placed
upon small platform, a little larger
than the stove, and about nine inches
high, so that the cooking utensils on
the stove will be within easy reach
without STOPPING. Those who are
planning houses would do well TO in
Guide such a platform in their ideal
kitchen. The cost would be slight.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

blister the most sensitive skin: Two
tablespoonfuls mustard, two teaspoon
fuls Hour, two teaspoonfuls ground
ginger. Do not mix too dry Place
between two pieces of old muslin and
apply. If it burns too much at first
lay an extra pteoeIof muslin between it
and the skin;5as the skin becomes ac-
customed to the heat take the extra
piece of muslin away.
Very few of The brass trimmings used
about fireplaeesI and as furniture
handles require polishing with powders
or liquids, as they are nearly all
covered with a laQuer. as are most of
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
NEW YORK FASHIONS
a MULTITUDE OF NOVELTIES IN
LATEST FABRICS AND
STYLES.
CHEAP TAILOR-MADE GOWNS.
SURPRISING BARGAINS WHICH
MATE LEROY FINDS ~ HER
TOURS.
NEXT SEASONS SHIRT WAISTS.
Popularity Of Pearl Buttons as a
Trimming-BeautifuI New
Wash Silks.
CHEAP -AILoR-MADE GOWNS.
NEXT SEASONS SHIRT WAISTS.
Special Correspondence to the Globe.

Special Correspondence to the Globe.
NEW YORK, Jan. 16.-At the present
moment there is almost an embarrass-
ment of choice in things devoted to
women's needs, and one scarcely
knows whether to devote ones pen to
describing the new wash goods, the
woolens which will be worn well into
warm weather, or the spring silks. The
advent of the spring and summer fab
RIGS does not prove that there is moth
ing to be said about the coZy, warm
woods, for it is indeed rare to see such
a variety of these necessary fabrics
But the most Of these are shown in
made-up garments.
These made-up clothes are a great
convenience to nearly all classes of
women, and particularly so to those
who have little time or strength, or
perhaps knowledge of dressmaking.
They are always stylish and generally
we'll and substantially made | no
ticed hundreds of tailor-made gowns
in one place in brown, black, tan, snuff,
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

the tea becoming tainted in the pro-
cess of asserting and packing. The
rooms in which the Worl. is done are
kept scrupulously clean, and nothing
that could impart the slightest taint
to the tea is permitted to be brought
into the rooms. The assorters and
packers are strictly forbidden the use
of tobacco in any form, and are re-
CURED to be clothed in clean white
linen suits. When you consider. the
Importance of these precautions and
all this care, you Will really compre-
bend why Russia excels the world in
the perfection of its teas, and why
the Russian teas retain their strength,
flavor and delicious aroma
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
LILLIAN RUssELLs BICYCLE SUIT.
The Fair Actress Has Originated
One That She Considers Perfect

Miss Lillian Russell, the comic opera
diva, is great bicycle enthusiast. She
advocates the wheel as a health-giver,
complexion-improver weight-reducer
and temper-soother, all of which rea-
sons contain innate elements of candor,
as well as of sense. And, as might have
been expected, the fair Lillian has in
vented bicycle costume which would
seem to combine all the desirable feat
ures of modesty, beauty, comfort, and
convenience. 1t consists of a short
cloth skirt, falling just below the knees,
a loose flannel waist, little cloth Jacket
to match the skirt and soft Alpine
hat. Beneath the skirt Miss Russell
wears full knickerbockers of black silk.
which are met at the knees by specially
made boots, laced on the inside and
strapped with a buckle at the top. Miss
Russell rides twenty miles day in this
tasty rig" on confection of a wheel.
done in silver and blue enamel. and
claims to have derived no end of benefit
as well as a lot Of fun from the exercise.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19

times for the exercise-certainly much better
than the dog days, when everybody rides.
Since neat and pretty sweaters have been
made specially for women the problem OF the
best bicycle dress has been partially solved
ana that without sacrificing appearances. The
white sweaters and those having dark stripes
on white ground are becoming and comforta-
bic and are much worn for all out-of- door
sports
An Illustration is given of bicycle costume
or gray cloth 1t has a half-length skirt
the seams Of which are covered with stitched
straps: The jacket has a plastron front
fastening under wide-stitched straps on each
side with light horn buttons. The sleeves
which are OF the fashionable shape have mar
row lengthwlse stitched straps. The collar
ana pocket flaps are also stitched. The
sailor hat is Of black felt trimmed with gray
ribbon and two gray feathers.
-,Judic ChoIlnt
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
Mrs. winsIow,. Soothing syrup.

for over FIFTY YEARS has been used nv
millions Of mothers for their CHILDREN
while CUTTING TEETH with perfect success
duces Inflammation allays ali pain curs,
wind collie, Is very pleasant TO the taste and
is the best remedy for diarrhoea. Sold bv
DRUGGISTS In every part OF the world PRICE
TWENTY-FIVE CENTS A BOTTLE Re
sure and ask for MRS. WINSLOW's SOOTH
ING SYRUP and take no other kind, as
mothers will ind 1t the Best Medicine 10 uss
during the teething period.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
AROUND THE HOUSE,
Some Odds and Ends of Useful Infor-
nation for the Housewife

Clear black coffee, diluted with water
and containing little ammonia, will
clean and restore black clothes.
A sponge large enough to expand and
fill the chimney after having been
squeezed in, tied to a slender stick,
is the best thing with which to clean
a lamp chimney
mustard plaster made according
to the following directions will not
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
RUSTIC FANCIES.
Willow Baskets FancifuIiyTrimmed
Bicycle Boots and Shoes.

There is a revival just now of the
vatican fancy for a mixture of refine
ment and rusticity. In Paris the favor
ite bOnbonniere for holding the finest
confectionery is little rustic basket of
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-19
A VERY SWELL COSTUME.
A Black Satin Skirt, Light Cloth Goa,
and Fine Fur Collar.

Black satin skirts, although they have
been worn so long, grow in favor every
day, and no fashionable wardrobe is
without one. At first they were only