The Republican journal., 1896-03-19
rustng Among the Canar1es.

4IrFE, THE MOUNTAIN ISLAM
.r.. 90 BARON HUMBOLDT CHARACTER
. ~ THE GRANDEsT IN THE WORLD
.s.tNY OF ANDALUSIA. THE CITY OF
tlA CRUZ.
correspondence of The Journal.
IRA CRUZ. TENERIFFE. Jan. Goth
one is generally disappointed at
view of Tenerilfe, remembering
luboldt considered its mountain
the grandest in the world. Iu-
ut M immense, spire- like cone
lie skies, which many descrip-
led him to expect the voyager
huge square block of mountain,
lay and unattractiye; and gets only
imposes of that between riffs of
Scientists explain the peculiar
-rberic conditions that prevail here
most OF the year as due to the
- tst winds. which produce a dense
--m of sea-cloud. thousand feet
whose lower surface is two or three
red feet above the water at Teneritfe.
oes not reach up to the mountains,
YER, which have on every side a
eu Of their own, beginning about
et above the sea level. Between
u- TWO distinct strata of clond there
s,s zap, constantly opening and closing,
la which persons on an approach
.ssel obtain fieeting views of the mid
uantain, but scarcely see anything
trI. upper heights There is a light
near Anaga Point at the extreme
Y. east end of the island, whose
.., n is visible 30 OF 40 miles out at sea
.u he steamer rounds the point, the
t.ly ragged and desolate volcanic
the coast are plainly seen, but the
iI loot high mountain is as invisible
never existed. But late in the at
In4.eu having dropped anchor in the
~nta Cruz, to wait discontentedly
corning and permission to land, we
n. ated to a brief but glorious spec
The cl0ud-curtains We're suddenly
-. apart as by invisible hands, dis
iuNtlLliIIlS IISlllS III tNGi dsttHtt-
a.s to the extreme summit OF the
Write cone, clear cut against the
esy The remarkable whiteness OF
k gave to the island its name,
-ai ife, "white woman'' in the
ul Guanche language. They
topmost point Clyde, (meaning
title whose appropriateness is APP
to those who attempt to scale it,
aiern tongues have corrupted the
Teyde. The snow white spire
ior moment rosy red, as the sur
wonderful blaze of glory behind
then the cloud curtains Were
.aH ogether, and no mountain was to
-.A.
so-called harbor of Santa Cruz
Hc southeastern corner of the tri-
M shaped island, is only an oper
-'ead, whose sole protection is the
l.-u AZ character of the winds and the
'e, which can be accurately calculat
niolehand according to the season, and
NATURE Oh JIt anchorage. W llCu Ii
a4p that a vessel cannot drag ashore
ugh perhaps she may be driven on
-el But it is the best they can GIVE
he way of bay anywhere arount
ia. and, whose coast presents an unin
'c pted succession of lofty cliffs, pierre
narrow, precipitous ravines. Time
.Hl. n af "a,
larthwestern side, did very well al
b2 in these volcanic regions; but thu
volcanic eruption of 1906 filled i
". torrents of lava. At Santa Cruz
i7U locky arms outstretched enclose
sIt circular sheet of water, which is al
WAYS more or less agitated by the heav
S"e'lS rolling in from trade winds blow
lng outside. As dense darkness fell, tn
long swells increased, rolling the vesse
1en side to side with greater violenc
Nan is often experienced in a storm O.
The open sea. The great harbor was al
most empty, with no ships but Portu
EueSe man of war close to the mole, an
Ni loohiuS CIdll LllC uSdI "
coast of Africa, which appeared bent upo
Aetpihg as far away as possible, as if it
BUSINESS was not of the best.
le distant town, too, was in darkness
'A8 40 oppressive silence reigned, broke
"t' 10y the thunderous monotone c
"' pjlows. Suddenly number of light
."sAtd up all around us, fitting Xix
''.'Ols over the swollen waters. AS til
i '-4af illumination approached, we sa
1910. IL VAS fleet of fishing boats, in eac
Ntirh fire of Canary pine had bee
l '9hted to attract the fish. The fish
'"'ur IN their pointed scarlet caps an
jackets, with the re-light playin
'"" their smoke -grimed, furrowed face
d I'l sprang into view on the crest of
\ '''"' then as quickly sank from sigl
4 '''" the gulf below, looked like so man
P'i'S OF the mighty deep brewing ten
P'S' or like the ghosts of the aborigin
'NNautants-tall, brave Guanches, who
humboldt called 'sthe Patagonians
"' OId World,'' who fell in defence
eI island, or were sold by their col