New-York tribune., 1896-10-08

A MOVEMENT IN THE DIRECTION OF
IMPLiCITY-SHAPES AND STYLES
TO BE MODERATE.

The dutocrats Of fashion in Paris seem 10 have
agreed 10 hold their vagaries in check just now
Possibly they are calling a halt only Tor some
future desperate measure Whatever the motive
may be 1t seems certain that the coming season
will be- of moderation in dress. and that there
will be comparatively little change. Sleeves are
no longer huge balloons skirts not excessively
wide, and hats are not overloaded with flowers ana
feathers Of yore
ON the contrary. everything is bf modest FORM
and simplicity the rule rather tending. perhaps
10 severity These STYLES are becoming 10 youth
and beauty: age and faulty forms must accept
their fate. Happily portly mat irons take refuge
in lace trimmings which lovely nowadays
and which can be made float in bov'y softness,
concealiag anything short Of actual deformity. It
Is pretty when IT j. "A little vague says the
Partisan dressmaker with her infinite tact. Her
real satisfaction and true pleasure. however. viii
be in arraying Venus ana Hebe in garments so
trtful that they artess. and cleveriy in
tricate 10 defy criticism.
How pleased 1 hear all this"' exclaimed
the husband OF fashionable young woman when
she came in from her tour OF the Paris shops and
great dre-smakng establishments with her ami
mated descriptions Of the narrowing skirts. dimin-
ishng sleeves and general modesty and refinement
OF all the gowns she bad been shown.
why. you will need no luggage 10 speak o. 1t
will be like the good old times when women travel
led with only one trunk
Oh my dear" calculated mady. you forget
every gown and the silk blouses and all the other
chffons that absolutely necessary. Besides,
all the skirts be trimmed this year so
that I will require a great deal more room than
ever"
Yes it is quite true; skirts are TO be trimmed. in
creasing thereby the work and difficulties OF the
amateur dressmaker fourfod The tiny ruilies and
small lace edgings must Doe daintily arranged 10y
skful fingers, and the pretty ribbon 50 often seen
running down each side must be tied by ar
istic hand. 50 that altogether tho dressmakers
have the best of IT, despite their assumption OF
simplicity
The bodices 10 be horizontal In design. tucks
and trimmings Of all kinds being placed with this
end in view. Az has already been said IN these
columns. bolero effects are prevailing. An extreme
ly pretty bodice from he Maison Worth. which was
much admired al Hamburg this summer OF
green and blue chang"able silk. with smart
zouave jacket in plain green 70 be H.
There have been many reports that bouscs are
going out II this is true they die hard. Mean
while they seem TO have taken a new lease OF life.
II one may judge by the great number 10 be- seen
in Paris Their usefulness % too apparent 20 al
low them 20 be- lightly reinguished The woman
Of to-day has large a sphere OF OcruVi ion.
and is too busy - be limited 10 a costume suited
condemn an article which eWIncipitcs hrr from
the tedious toll OF constant dressing and redress
every rank of life 70 uphold The blouse against fS
OF an the radical change. during .b- last year
or two, the fashion Of universal hag-wraring is one
OF the greatest This kind OF head-covering used
10 BE- called round nat. In contrad!stinctioI to
bonnet. and round hat on a grandma NINA would
have called forth a plying smi.- Now a large
hat trimmed with feathers and plumes posed on
Inc gray pr whit" hair H. considered highly dig
nified and becoming. especially with q black rib
bon tied under the cnin. Their" - q great deal Of
common sense underlying this fashion. Hair j. apt
10 be- hin on TOP of the head. which ia of cour-.
concealed the eyes protected. and the veil kept
IN position hy me brim of Tie hIt instead of being
drawn usht over the face. which is meyer be
coming
To sum np 'h" whole subject Of prevailing fash
IONS Tor ihr ensuing season. there are Doc NO
dSeer"ii"nS. and no "crrntric.ti--. hgf extreme
d1Intlnrss Last winters dresses need not b" eu-
ana leng l'n"d. and sVlrte rI1 h" frr~lrncd ly i
little trimming round r1r rer rrd a black or Wfli.,.
lace boierO viii -mtr'ru Ip bodice L. fict DO .-
desirable 20 wear out ~t~rt thing II possible. TOR
probably the near future VIII brink about some
tremendous revolution after This prolonged season
OF calm.