The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-05-24
Many CONNECTIONS in Nantes and Capes.
No More Somber Co!ors.


Very numerous are the new mantles and
capes, and one with a decided air OF shot
silk has a sacque back and handsome
guipure applique down the front, which
| opens to show an inner front of black silk
accordion pleating. The full-neck ruffle
is of the pleating also, completed by a
bow of black satin. The sleeves are ex-
tremely graceful and of goodly proper.
tons. Shot silk is quite a favorite for
these garments, as another worthy of re-
mark is in shot green and petunia, with
jetted design, and cape ard collar of ac-
Gordon pleated net, which is striped with
tiny roses, thus also forms a ruche down
the front.
Numerous charming little capes made
and designed at home have been worn by
several of our best-dressed matrons here.
They are usually composed of jetted or of
sequin embroidered lace over ehaneeable
silk. Black and white mousseline de sole
has been used with equally good results.
Dowagers are charmed with the broche
grenadines with bright satin flowers, en-
framed in scrolls of velours. They are cor
| rectly spoken of as extremely elegant and
| are always made up over changeable tai
fetas. Young W omen are using large ouan-
titles of colored Brussels net in combina-
ton with the white instead of tulle. The
results are all that can be desired. as ONLY
fine quality of the silk net is patronized
am quite delighted to note that our
grandmothers are urged to no longer con-
hne themselves to similar stuffy colors
and for the house, except when in mourn
ing, black should never be worn. Delicate
dainty colors should be selected bv them
or bright figures in light ground Thew
should no longer wear their laces on
special occasions only, for grandmothers
have discovered how becoming they are
for daily wear and nowadays every old
lady should possess number of pretty
and comfortable negIiges.
As one writer says, and unfortunately
with truth, that "the grandmothers Of
this generation are generally one of two
Enthusiastically youthful exhibits be-
fiounced, beribboned and betrimmed to
excess. or careless and frumpy and shock
ingly dowdy at all times. In old age the
cultivation of coquetry in both sexes
should be assiduouslv fostered by every
member of the family A sweet. dainty
and fresh-looking old lady is a real pleasure
merely to contemplate. May we all be
permitted to grow old gracefully.
SILK mohairs in every fashionable shade
are on the market. Such mixtures as
mauve and green, green and black are
much liked, and the chine alpacas with
cashmerlan figure and satin stripes are in
great demand, as are also cheviots, tweed
and homespuns. Checked velyeteens of
superior qualities are used for the most
stylish OF waistcoats and blouses
Hop sacking has been so much liked bv
many that they will be glad to hear that
the French have greatly improved on it.
and as result offer US ''sac a raisin." II
can be had in such dark shades as brown
and petunia. Simple tweed gowns are be-
ing seen with handkerchief bodices, the
revers being made of the checked linen
handkerchiefs such as are used by French
peasants. They are laid in light yellow
cloth and bordered with extremely mr.
row black velvet. One such bodice had n
front of white cloth and over this the
! reyers were united by large bow of black
satin ribbon. An odd crinkled grenadine
which looks something like crepon has
the ground of transparent black with
stripes of diminutive Dresden roses. This
fabric is used in the composition OF some
exceptionally handsome reception dresses.
Frocks of somber hue are not consid-
cred stylish unless lined with gayly col
ored silk, as we must now have bright