The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-10-25
HOW THE DIFFERENT FASHIONS IN
LOVLINESs COME AND
.sih >. "o'
A LONG FACE is ESSENTIAL.
THIS SEASONS BEAUTIES ARE TO
BE TALL, sWAN-NECKED, YET
PLUMP.
ne.
MRS. CLEVELAND IS IN STYLE.
The Changing of the Type of Beauty
Is Said to Take Place Every
Twenty Years.

NEW YORK Oct 22-There has been
change in the type of professional
beauty The Langtry, with its long,
thin face went out some time ago.
The Beresford, plump and blonde, died
away, too. Latterly the professional
beauty type has been the irregular the
piquant. the variable Mrs. Hobart c.
Chatfield-Taylor filed this description
perfectly. But the fashion has changed.
{ The professional beauty this year will
be the regular featured one, and any
thing but the extreme blonde. Titan
hair, auburn, chestnut and brown all
come within the requirement. But the
most fashionable is the extreme black.
This is so deep and glistening that it
is mirror-like, and in some lights looks
a blue 1t is not frizZed, but is ar
ranged in keeping with its glossiness.
The professional beauty type of face
will be long and plump 1t is quite on
the Greek, yet with a touch of piquan-
cy around the eyes. In the galleries of
famous beauties you see many such
faces. But there are few in real life.
Consuelo, duchess of Marlborough, is
in this type and the Louise of picture
gallery fame, stepping down the stair
from her throat, is another type. The
new Mrs. w. c. Whitney is much on
this style, and as Mrs Randolph was
quoted for her length of throat and the
long oval of her face
The Princess of Wales, who holds her
own through all the years, is, unfor-
tunately, not of this style on account
Of her protruding forehead, which she
will not uncover.
1t may sound peculiar to those who
keep no annals of professional beauties
that the style of prettiness should
change and that the woman who was
a beauty yesterday is not even good
looking today. But that is the reason
ing of those who know nothing about
professional beauty and how it is OBJ
tanned.
Almost any woman who has been
professional beauty of any type can
continue to hold her title as long as
she retains her features by adjusting
herself to the style of beauty in vogue.
THE OLD TYPE 6
FIFTY years ago in this country Moth
Ing was so much admired as the broad
Dutch face, the high cheek bones and
the red cheeks of the women who led
society. The mother of Chauncev M.
Depew, the ladies of the Jay and Stuy-
Vesant families, all came under this de-
scription. They were beauties. Today
they would not be considered good
looking unless they adapted themselves
TO the change in beauty ideals, and this
would be hard for them.
The professional beauty Of this sea-
son must have a very long face This
is her first requirement Next she
must have a very long and slender
neck Third, she must have a long
nose Fourth, she must have a plump
contour to her face. Last, the mouth
must be bowed in many curves.
In classifying this style of beauty it
Is difficult to place it, But it started
with a woman well known in London
society, who copied a picture in last
years salon. The head was an ideal
The woman looked at it and did not
think it so very ideal after all. 81 can
look like that" said she to herself. And
she went home and after a few hours
study did manage to look like that. So
successful was she that malicious per-
sons accused her of posing for the
painting in order to make her own sty1e
or beauty the vogue in London and
Paris. In this country she speedily
found followers in Mrs Elisha DYER
mrs. Armour and Mrs. Duncan Elliott
who consciously or unconsciously. mod
eled their style to suit the new type.
The face with these ladies was made
long by parting the hair There are
those who have long face to start
with; and then the most difficult work
or the professional beauty is done for
1t is shape and not features that counts
this year. BY parting the hair and
drawing it down the face lines were
heightened and the face made to re-
semble the long Greek at once
TIGHTENING THE NECK.
The frightening Of the neck is more
difficult. This can only be done by
raising the hair and dressing the neck
low A necklace shortens the neck
and must not be worn unless the neck
is so long as to be ungraceful but that
would be very long, indeed, for necks
that would make a swan sick with
envy are the fashion this season.
The modelling of the nose sounds most
impossible, but even it can be accom-
plished. A nose can be made longer
by touch of powder on each side,
where the nose is too plump, and by the
tiniest touch of red upon the inside of
the nostrils. This last is practiced by
the Partisan beauties and by few Of
the Londoners But American women
think 1T savorS too much Of a red nose
or a sore one. In touching the nostriIs
with red the Parisians are exquisitely
delicate, and the tiniest daub of the
rouge is pronounced enough, while we.
with clumsier fingers, put on the red
until we can see It, Perhaps that Is
one reason the practice of rouging is
not in favor here.
MRS. CLEVELAND.
Mrs. Cleveland conforms cf1armingly
70 the new style of beauty. She parts
her hair, lengthens her neck by round
ed bodices, and sees that her throat
line is not destroyed. She is really a
new beauty. Mrs. Whitney is the same.
and in her wedding robe was superb.
The plump outline Of the face so nee
essary with the slimmest figure is
managed by massage. Seventy-five
strokes of the chin night and morning
are warranted to keep the neck firm
and free from the "brisket'' so dreaded
by beauties past their zenith. Bern
hardt, thin as she is, and old as she
is, has this plump chin, and there are
society women who boast of it while
being too slim for the weight allowed
them for proportions
An absolute need of the professional
beauty of this season is the bowed
mouth. This can be accomplished only
by q touch OF red, IL nature has been