The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1896-04-04
R0MES GRANDEST OBJECT.
AT STANDS ON 4 SORT or Il PIVop
RIGHT ON THE CORSO.

Originally Erected to Marcus AurelIus by
the Roman Senato-The Whole Cam
paign of That Leader Is Pictured in Bas
heliefs.
Dresden, Feb, 90, 1896.
To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
When a person pays his first visit to
Rome he should regard it as very ne
cessary to walk very carefully about
the chief thorouShGares of the city and
visit the principal piazzas and places of
special interest in order to obtain ia
miliar impression of the city as a city;
he should impress upon his mind q sort
OF physical or geographical imprint of
the great city as composed Of streets,
avenues, piazzas, hills, &C., &C., and in
fact of everything which contributes to
build up large metropolis The strue-
tural details can be studied carefully
afterwards when one has in way IA
miliarized himself with the general fea-
lures of this grand and interesting CEN
ter. Let us suppose such one re-
turning from a morning walk on the
Pincian Hill; as he proceeds along the
Via Sistina past the ''Trinita di Montt,
which stands high above the Scala
d 'Espagna;" after ten minutes the Pr
azza Barberini is reached and a quick
turn to the right leads directly into one
of the arteries of Rome; we must pause
a moment to detail few of the Singu-
lar sights to be met with in this pictur
eSque thoroughfare; the crowds of peo-
pie from many countries, the innumer-
able Roman peasants clad in their null
ticolored and pleasing costumes, the
many artists models of all ages and
sizes, from wee toddling infants to
bowed and aged men and women who
seem about ready to lay down their
weary burdens of unsuccessful life, the
magnificent equipages of princes and
the long narrow two wheeled pictur-
esque wine wagons from Tivoli and SUI
biaco do in truth make up a pretty
water color which charms, nay even
allures the visitor to this attractive
city, binding him with willing letters
in such a strange manner that words
appear too weak to describe the de-
lightful Imprisonment. Why, the love-
ly flowers and luscious fruits from
Frascati offered for sale by the beauti-
full dark eyed, dark haired maidens
from the Alban Hills would alone fur
nish a picture glowing with unrivalled
coloring.
The Via di Tritone takes it's name
from the great Triton fountain which
Bernini designed and placed right at
the head of the street in the Piazza
Barberini. This Triton perched upon
the backs of huge dolphins. holds a
large sea shell in his hands and right
through this he spouts with distended
cheeks a jet of water over forty feet
high. In the days of the emperors and
even before their day, probably before
the time of RomuluS, this was a
crooked foot path running between the
Pincian and Quirinal Hills, later it was
as it is to-day, a short cut along the
slopes Of the Qairinal down to the great
Flaminion Way or Corso of our own
time. Oh! for the genius of a Cana
letto to portray on telling canvas the
sights which one sees along the pictur-
esque Via di Tritone." Fat, red-hat-
ted cardinals in elegant equipages
drawn along by snowy horses are jos
tied by rude Sabine and Alban peasant
carts filled with chestnuts and yellow
MELONS. Grimy cook shops send forth
crammed with musty maccaroni and
spaghetti and bitter polenti swimming
in rancid OIL mixed with fish and bad
vegetables, perfect "olla podrida;"
enc would verify suppose the denizens
of these mal-odorous cook shops and
their poverty stricken patrons who fat
ten upon this vile food, had perpetrated
dreadful deeds and were DESTROYS of APP
peasing all the gods of ancient mythol-
ogy, so dense are the fumes of the evil
swelling black smoke and so free are
the libations of sickening oil. Elegant
ly apparelled ladies step quickly along
cheek by jowl with the lazzaroni of TIA
ly, the latter leaning upon crooked rude
staffs and their bodies and legs bound
up with old clouts and filthy rags,
worse even than the ''clouts and rags
with which Ebel Melech, the Ethiopian,
drew forth the Prophet Jeremiah from
the dungeon of Malciah, the son of
Hammlech. Pretty rosy checked for
eign babes pushed along by prettier
and fairer checked maidens mingIe,
with the children of paupers as they
pass along the narrow paVements of
this narrow street; long robes priests,
tourists with guide book in hand, gen.
tlemen and loafers, foot sore and weary
old men, are met as they trudge all the
way from Rocca di Papa and Paolom-
brine, with soles (only) of rough bulls
hide such as the old Etruscans used to
wear. Then there are butcher stalls
where scores Of lambkins, which at
sunrise We're gambolling on the Cam
pagna, hang ready for the flesh pots,
and shops where the italian govern
ment monopolize the sale of postage
stamps, salt and tobacco, and countless
wine shops grooming with glorious Chi
anti slowed away in pretty straw cov-
cred "faschetti'' All the above
items" indeed make a singular and az
the same time pleasing picture. Do
you ask why are there so many "Oste-
rie'' or wine shops in Italy? 1t is be-
cause every one drinks wine and it is
delivered daily to all housekeepers in
little beakers Of five gallons, and yet
YOU will not meet an intoxicated person
in Rome.
If passing rain cloud discharges its
dripping burden then appear the
shades and umbrellas of wondrous and
ANTICIPATED patterns, from the prehis-
toric protector with its ponderous brass
handle large enough for door kuocker
and with capacity sufficient to cover
Roman family through all grades and
evolutions down to the modern and
trim Florentine silk rain shade. When