The San Francisco call., 1896-03-01

lightful gowns to do anything of the sort,
for skillful fingers and a quick apprecia-
ton of beautiful outlines and com binations
Will produce results that cannot be rivaled.
Socially for many OF us there is a lull,
and as much CT our pleasure may depend
soon begin investigating our wardrobes,
for in California our season of bright,
warm days is long one. Every year our
girls are dressing with more taste, al
though, to be sure, even the most admired
and best gowued of our bellies cannot be
said to prepare as elaborate or as extern
sive outfits for the summer as their
Eastern sisters, who, for example, wore
last summer at Newport gowns of the
richest taille simply but exquisitely made,
for afternoon toilets. / hear that many
are weary of serge yachting dresses and
intend to have alpaca instead. | can only
say they will probably regret the change
of fabric. Such costumes have blouse
coat with collar of the best white taffeta
fancifully cut. These are belted with gold
ribbon.
Some will continue to wear white duck,
which is to be had this year il the finest
of qualities, which compare favorably
with Irish linen. Be sure to have the
duck shrunk at home before making it up.
White leather belts will be seen with
such dresses, and they are to be made
with belted coat, which must droop over
the belt all around. All the seams are
strapped, but the collar and revers are
simply stitched.
With white serge, alpaca and duck
gowns are to be worn separate waists of
Japanese silk of natural colors and de-
signs. They are made up very full in ac-
Gordon pleating, with stock and cuffs of
white satin ribbons. Persian crepes will
be used for the same parpose in soft light
| shades. A touch of gold will be one Of
have gold belts, gold insertions, gold lace,
and all the silver buckles are being
| washed with gold.
| Bishop sleeves will be cross barred with
insertion In all cases where it appears on
! the waist.
Summer skirts will not measure over six
! yards and will flare about the feet. Many
are not to measure over five.
The blouse coat will be the thing this
season. 1t is loose affair with but few
seams, usually only those under the
! arms, unless a large bust compels darts in
front 1t extends to about four inches
below the belt and is drawn in shape by
the belt. The front is ornamented by
| shawl reveres and the collar turns down
widely. The sleeves may be either gigot
or bishop.
The fichu is to be favored accompani-
ment of not only evening, but day gowns
as WELL and the corselet will be in vogue.
For evening wear, infnitesimally dotted
muslins fine nets, Russian nets and en-
broidered mousseiines de sole will be in
great demand. Black Russian net is used
effectively on black evening toilet, rs it
forms beautiful transparent sleeves. 1t is
also used with white silk.
Embroideries of the richest description
are to be used. Emeralds, being popular,
are seen in combination with Jet and gold
thread as an insertion on Paris gowns
from celebrated houses.
A sweet-faced belle is having a delight
fully pretty gown made at home. The
skirt is of a pretty torquoise blue French
silk crepon, which looks like accordion
pleating. 1t is made over plain taffeta
silk of the same shade. The waist is lined
with the silk, completely covered in front
with white silk, which in turn Is covered
with fluffy white chiffon, layers upon
LAYERS, which produces a cloudy effect.
The back and sleeves are of the crepon.
Around the waist is narrow white satin
ribbon, which terminates i'll small chow
in front. Extending down the middle OF