davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

jewels and wear them. They have the
money to buy them, and consequently
they are able to get the largest and
purest gems in the world. IF one Of
our wealthy women wanted a string
of black pearls, rare and expensive as
they are" said dealer who has q life
long experience in the collection and
sale of pearls, lin less than six months
she'd get them. You'd be surprised at
the number of persons who crop up
with these gems to sell at the price
one of our rich women would give If
she took it into her head to wear black
pearls Strange, as 1t is, when women
get these valuable gems he continued,
they are so careless about their
safety"
1t is safe to presume that it is not
fnfrequently the ostentation Of women
which causes them the loss of their
vafuables. Just at present it is a great
fad among the smart set to wear pearls
worth thirty or forty thousand dollars
under their waists. Others wear a
string of diamonds and others have
the satisfaction Of knowing that a col
lar OF precious gems Is hidden under
the ribbon on a duck Jacket. Some
women say they wear their jewels IN
this way for safety. Others will tell
you that pearls will turn color If not
always worn, and as absurd as this
idea may seem, it finds many ready to
believe it.
1t is stated on excellent authority that the
Duchess of Marlborough always wears a
string of pearls and that Mrs. Q. H: P. Bel
mont's famous string of diamonds never
leaves her throat Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt
Is said to wear collar of diamonds con-
stantly and Mrs. William Jay and Mrs.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

One thing there has never been any means
OF carrying with any comfort and which is
almost indispensable to the young woman
who exposes her precious nose to the mid
summer sun. is the bit of powder and tiny
puff with which to cover up the too rudy
glow induced by direct or reflected rays
yer nutshell about the size and shape of an
English walnut, which can be hung on the
chatelaine. It contains, besides the pow
ing salts bottle, with places for five or six
pins around the sides Of It, and tiny mir
ror which forms the partition between the
Two parts, and which also has place for
his photograph" on the other side Of IT, 1t
may, therefore, be used to take the place Of
the separate smelling salts bottle and mir
ror, besides Its own use as a powder box
and by combining three articles in one help
solve the problem Of what to wear on ones
chatelaine.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
GOODS OF AUTUMN
WHAT NEW YORK MERCHANTS
ARE IMPORTING FOR FALL
WEAR.
FACED CLOTHS NOT FAVORED.
COMBINATIONS OF BLUE AND GREEN
ARE STILL MUCH IN
VOGUE.
SILK AND WOOL MIXTURES STAY.
Importers Predict the Revival of
MOire Antique and other Rich
and Heavy Silks.

The autumn importations of our
chief merchants hardly confirm the
rumOr that plain cloths of the variety
known to tailors as faced cloths will
again resume their place in fashion
able favor. There are many notewor-
thy novelties of weave and coloring,
but solid colors are the exception rath-
er than the rule, While smooth cloths
as represented by the zibelines, are
very different from the old-time la
dies cloths of years ago. They are dis
tinguished by their exquisite silken
weight and clinging softness. They are
indeed triumphs of the French manu-
facturers' art, resembling in their
texture the camels hairs of a dozen
years ago which lent themselves so
gracefully to clinging draperies What
does the return of this species of cloth
man in an era of flaring stiff styles?
Will it not tempt dressmakers to re-
turn to drapery and more bouffant
fashions?
Some of the extreme makes of these
new cloths are covered with long silken
hairs Of one color on a contrasting
ground, suggesting it's use in vesting
and for portions of a dress of plain III
beline. Plain colorS and what are
known as heather mixture, where the
colors are carded together in the wool
abound in these new Zibelines or cam
els hairs. The soft grays of many
years ago, rich dahlia shades. and
above all, the new greens and blues in
slate tones are shown in these cloths;
and the combination Of blue and green
seems to be in them a fad of the hour.
1t appears in combination with two or
three other shades in large number
of the patterns. Apricot, pink, moss
green and slate blue are other combin-
ations. These colorings are combined in
dark, subdued shades in even mixtures
in checks and in fine plaids
The new homespuns are shown in
two varieties of weave, a loose, soft
sacking and a flrmer cheviot with a
soft cameFs hair surface. These cam
els hair cheviots are known as Scotch
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13


Another waist of white Powered brocade has
e 'front.' and cap pieces over the sleeve of
lne white null with strips of Valenciennes
lace insertion, and is trimmed with lace to
match: The sleeves Of the silk reach only to
the elbow but from the elbow to the wrist
for all the world like those seen in the
FASHION plates of years and years ago. The
combining of this null and lace with the
Drocade Is extremely effective. Another smart
waist Just finished Is of black and white
checked SILK cut in a pointed yoke, or rather
three-pointed yoke which goes away down
over blouse of accordion-pleated black NOUS
seine de sole. The sleeves of this are much
like the other, with the long under sleeve Of
the sh1rred mousseline de sole and the IN
per sleeve of the silk. These under-sleeyes Of
me sheer material are a revival of olden
times, but make the arm look very long and
thin. The more exaggerated ones extend over
the hand. They are made quite separate from
the sleeves to which they are fastened with in
visible buttons and loops. as they must needs
be- fer, like many other attractive fashions
they need constant renewing and freshening.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
English Tea Cozies.

In English country houses the table for
o'clock tea is usually a rather large oval
used to be popular in American parlors 20
years ago as centre tables. On its polished
surface, resting on an embroidered dolly
stands daily bowl Of fresh flowers and
when the tea service is brought in, at 5
O'Clock, it's pretty impedimenta finishes the
setting out. No English tea table is complete
without its cozy, the bishops cap being the
popular shape. pretty coy, made for ser
vice with a dainty tea set of pale, cream
china, fecked with arbutus, was of white
satin. embroidered with the same flower
and edged with band Of pink velvet and lined
with pink silk. To make one, cut two pieces
Of the required size and shape, embroider
or paint them first; then seam together at
the rounded edges, and edge with band Of
velvet of a harmonizlng color, or If pre-
ferred, heavy silk cord. 1t must be thickly
wadded and lined with silk quilted with a
thin layer Of wadding. The silk cord is sewn
over the seam with loop or pompon at the
top, to lift the cozy.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
PIAZZA FITTINGS.
Chairs Should be Strong and of
Various Heights

Chairs Should be Strong and of
Various Heights
Piazza chairs should be strong and
constructed of various heights and
sizes to suit everybody, from the typi-
cal fat man to the tiny tot. Fortunate
~, Americans are divorcing them
selves, in measure, from the ubiqui-
tous rocking chair, 1ured by the variety
of easy, plainly made seats that have
taken the places of their stiff and silt
ed predecessors. OF all things to be re-
jected are those extension chairs that
irvalids seldom used, and lazy people
pre-empted. They take up a deal Of
room, they are ugly, and one is always
stumbling over the occupant, who
would much better go to a couch than
take his ease within its indolent length
In an extremely broad piazza it is
not necessary that there should be a
permanent roof. The posts and skel-
eton must stand, it is true; but six
feet or two of shingled or timed roof
may be supplemented during the warm
season by awning or duck or canvas,
which can be removed in October.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

not due to a malicious design on the part of
the goldsmith, but was made by the direc-
tlon OF the owner, who, as often happens, is
in want of money.
The value of jewels is difficult to ascertain.
ana 1t would be impossible to suppose that
banker who undertakes the care of box
is likely in. case of robbery to pay any value
that may be placed upon 1t by its owner,
1or often jewels supposed to be worth great
sums have not brought one-half when put
under the hammer. This has been proved in
the attempt to value the gems stolen in our
city during the last six months.
Tnere are many women who do possess
great fortunes In Jewels, but who have never
suffered from loss, and this is, perhaps on
account Of the unpretentious way in which
they are cared for One woman Travelled
through Germany with a pair Of black pearl
earrings of great value and a large spray
OF diamonds in candy boz. Another whose
valuable possessions were tightly fastened in
the false bottom of her fathers hat box. An
innocent luncheon basket filled with the
usual adjuncts. under which is large space,
is secure and unsupported place for gems
to lie, and thus is made to do double duty,
both most important on a voyage and may
be used with equal advantage at home. &
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

goods, though of French manufacture
having all the witchery Of French COL
oring in their soft, hairy surface Some
of these cloths show a refined mixture
of grays with black and white. Still
others combine violet and moss green,
with black threads softening the entire
cloth. Sometimes the popular bourette
figures of closely curled hairs or a. reg
ular brocaded figure partly cover the
ground, and look like a pattern of I'M
cut velvet.
Venetian cloths with their indistinct
diagonal weave are shown in plain
colors and heather mixtures. as well
as in checks and crossbars. There are
also many Ottoman cords. These differ
from the Bedford and imperial cords
In having the cord run from selvage
to selvage, instead of up and down.
The varieties of this material, where a
fine cord alternates with :. much,
heavier one, making a raised stripe, is
known as wool SiciEenne" It is
shown this season in several shades
Of brown, in greens, mode and slate
blue, as well as marine blue, a brighter
shade than navy and almost as intense
Ia coloring as old-fashioned royal blue.
There are also some velours which
differ from the goods of several years
ago in having an irregular cord
Some of the new mixed cloths in rich
tones Of many colors are subdued by
Irregular velours in black crossing their
surface. Still others are brocaded in an
arabesque Of black lines, giving the
effect Of a braided pattern over gay
ground These rich, warm goods are
intended especially for heavy winter
wear, though, in spite of some elab-
oration in weave, they are notably light
In weight.
The efforts Of manufacturers have
been turned toward securing a thick.
warm, yet soft and light, cloth for win
ter wear. The weight Of tailor gowns
since the era Of the faring fashions
has been a serious drawback to the
comfort Of well-dressed women. 1t will
be impossible for those who have be-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

conle accustomed to the weight of the
fashionable summer mohair to adopt
again the heavy woods of the last few
years. Manufacturers have been COM
PEELED to use every means to secure g.
warm, soft goods with a featherlike
weight. This is only possible In a cloth
of rough or soft surface The revival
of the glace-finished ladies' cloths
seems to be set back In the eyer-re-
velyiTg cycle of styles. It seems i'm
possible to make such a material warm
as we'll as light In weight.
The first goods to be worn in autumn
will probably be the mixtures of blue
and green and other fashionable shades
in the soft, hairy canePs-hair already
described. Silk and wool mixtures.
which have been popular all summer.
win remain In use. A great many
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
Lady Henry and the queen.

Washington Post
Here is a little story concerning Lady
henry Somerset, which will interest the
many friends and admirers that distinguished
temperance advocate made during her visit
10 Washington. 1t also illustrates the won
derful memory Of England's queen. When
Lady Henry was four or five w ars old ball
was. given at Buckingham palace to be at
tended by none except the first born Of peers
She went with her parents, the Earl and
Countess Somers. Being an independent lit
tie thing, she strayed off from her guardians
and went on tour of observation through
the great hall, and finally, when Queen Vic
toria and Prince Albert left to 60 to the
banquet table. she seated herself on the
cushioned seat the queen had vacated She
had on q white dress with real daisies fas-
tened to it, and a wreath Of the same flowers
rested on her hair. When Victoria returned
she was much amused, and patting the girl
on the head. said, This is little Isabel"
With a toss of her head, the child answered.
This is Lady Isabel" When Lady Somerset
was eighteen years old she was presented at
court, and wore a white dress covered with
natural flowers as before. AS the queen bent
down to kiss her cheek a custom with the
daughters of peers when they are presented,
she said: Daisies again, little Isabel-Lsdy.
Isabel, | mean" She had remembered the
circumstance of the ballroom all those years
in the midst Of her preoccupied life.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
lighter weaves of taffeta and other

lighter weaves Of taffeta and other
goods.
Pale aprocot grosgrains are figured
with uncut velvet in an all-over pat
tern. Some Of the richest of these bro
cades have chene grounds in a medley
OF iridescent celors, and are covered
by an open pattern of white frise or
uncut velvet. Dark brocaded velvets
are figured with gay tulips and other
jardiniere designs and subdued by ara
besques of black velvet. Such materials
are used for court trains, petticoat
fronts and other combinations with
rich silk in plain colors or with MORE
antique. The success of the effort to
revive these splendid materials is still
a matter Of doubt. 1t is the revolt of
the manufacturer against the eeonomi-
cal silks now in fashion and the bait
offered to customers and dressmakers
to revive the old-time splendor or bro
cades and moire antiques.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
SEPTEMBER PICNICs.
They Are Ideal, Especially When You
Make Your Own Tea.

In these last weeks of summer there is a
disposition to take the most possible pleas
ure out of the short time remaining for open
air amusements. Picnics in the woods are the
most delightful form of impromptu recreation
that can be conceived for early September.
The blazing heat of mid-August is tempered
by soft breezes that barely whisper of fall
and yet warn US that summertfde is heetlng.
The leaves are in their full burst of verdure
ere they begin to turn red and yellow, and
the earth is moist and soft, with the scent
of all the flowers and ferns 1t has offered since
winter SHOWS cleared away. Then is the time
for picnic in the woods.
A fad in picnics this year is to have tea
instead of anything solid. When you go
into the country for a picnic you do not
care SO much about heavy food as some
thing tasty. Tea is comforting liquid
whether consumed at home about a coy
4-o'clock table under the murmuring pines
and hemlocks Then the materials for tea
and it's accompaniment not so11trouble-
some to carry as the ordinary picnic impedi-
menta. All you need is tealeettle, to be
set to boil over a fire Of sticks and dried
grass, some sandwiches and a few sweet
things. The best sandwiches for tea pic
mic are OF fresh white bread Tor graham
bread, If it is preferred, or take some Of
both kiDds), spread with butter which has
been beaten to cream and seasoned with
celery salt, pepper and a little French
mustard. These sandwiches are always
moist and tasty. and will keep for almost
any lengthy of time.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

With many French and German ladies'
tie cucumber Is a sovereign cosmetic. They
buy cold cream, beat it in plate until soft
Milk is very valuable cosmetic and NAV
be used freely to battle the face in
Lanoline cream. which is considered ex-
cellent as an emollient for the skin, NAV
he made as follows Obtain half a pint Of
lanoline and half pint of pure OIL Of sweet
almonds. Then, putting tablespoonful on
china plate. add an equal quantity Of Ell
mond oil; mix thoroughly and adG from
half a teaspooDfui to teaspoonful of tineturo
Of benzoin, until the paste drips from the
knife-a steel caseknife is best for the mix
ing process-in about the consistency OF very
thick cream All three OF these ingredi ents
are absolutely harmless. 1t should be rubbed
in at night
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

cloths for winter are lightened by in
Producing cords, lines or waving figures
in silk, with the effect of a brocaded
pattern. These rich goods will be made
up with trimming of sable and other
fine furs. The lighter goods for fall
are woven with a wool Of silk, or with
delicate cross-over lines of Illuminating
color on dark wool ground
The dahlia colors Of the season be-
gin at a rich and almost invisible"
plum color and are found in various
shades. When they do not shade into
the purplsh magenta colors they are
very becoming to compilations past the
first bloom of youth. The slate blues
are more trying when not in a mix
ture with other colors. They are not
SO hard in color or SO unbecoming as
the old-time cadet and telegraphique
colors.
Basket weaves in bouc1e effects are
found in homeSpuns and other cloths
for early fall The new Tattersall
vestings are smooth London cloths dot
ted with pinhead dots Of tan color or
bright hunting red ON various dark
grounds. They are also shown in cross
bars of these two colors on a cream
white or a tan cloth and in other cOlors
Wool lattice cloths are shown in dark
blue, greens, browns and other colors.
They are imported to use over a con-
trastlng color as a Vest1ng or other
trimming for cloth gown Of the color
of the lattice
The revival Of the MORE antiques or
silks in which the watered design ex-
tends from selvage to selvage is the
prediction of importers. Immense
quantities of these materials are sent
over from Lyons in old-fashioned rose,
apple green, corn color, pearl and other
shades familiar in the bathrooms of a
q 90 No crYoiQ off
orally popular for combination with
black and dark-hued silks, are found
in white MORE antique marked with
black satin stripes ranging from half
an inch to a quarter Of an inch in
width. The return of these goods with
velvet brocades of the richest quality is
protest against the popularity of the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
Men, Not women. Fainted.

It Is rather a striking fact that in the av-
animation held at Oxford-the great er-
animation week OF the university year-5be
faint1ng and similar demonstrations suDnosad
TO be peculiarly feminine were eonfinef
entirely to the masculine candidates. The
result, as regards requirement of knowledre
can only be discussed on the publication n
every one gone through the ordeal nohiv
from a physical point of viewuowhfle ons
man collapsed suddenly in a dead yfaint. and
several retired. temporarily Overcome IL
lesser degree by similar weakress.s.-.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
EARLY FALL HATS.
They Have "a Severe, But Stylish
Look.

Look.
The early fall hats have rather seyere
aspect when compared with the fluffy be-
Powered hats OF summer, but there is a
very stylish air about them and they give
the wearer a very distinguished appearance,
Bonnets for elaborate occasions are airy
indeed, being made almost entirely of gath
cred tulle or lace and Jet, and trimmed with
dark velvet, sprays of flowers or feathers,
Some of these tiny affairs have a full osprey
perched upright at the back. Sprays of green
oats and punches of green wheat are showing
themselves among the trimmings of the fail
millinery, in opposition to the bright red
cherries and currants that have been intro
duced for the decoration Of fall hats
All the hats IN the first group are very
plainly trimmed. The low-crowned broad
brimmed hat is OF fine black felt. The curling
cock plumes are black and white. and the
ribbon is of heavy white corded silk. the
loops mingling with the feathers. The high
crowned one, with the bziFn rolling I'D closely
20 the crown, Is of course brown straw The
brim and trimmings are of brown velvet with
one bright yellow quill The third hat has
cream straw, crown, with q coarse black straw
brfr1, and has for ornament bound and
large bow, of narrow BLACK satin ribbon. hold
Ing IN place cream colored quilts
The next ILLUSTRATION shows q novel design
for cyelirg cap. It 10 Of French felt in
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
A Linen Bicycle Costume

Women's bicycling suits after the British
and inevitably inferior models have begun
tc appear. One of these is certainly simple
plain gown of linen in narrow up-and- down
stripes of blush gray and white, with q
white linen collar. There is front piaij
and the gown is simply belted at the waist
This ds light, cool and appropriate enough
except that the skirt comes within six inches
OF the ground, and is, therefore, an emphatic
nuisance. to which masculine exoietiyes
might do Justice, but mine would not
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13

fawn color, and has no trimming save the
two quilts standing up perfectly straight at
the side. The other is Of rough straw and has
for trimming just a soft wrinkled band of
silk and six quilts. three placed at either
side of the crown at the back.
The pretty travelling hat in the next Illus
tration is of brown felt, trimmed very sim
ply with bright tan ribbon. The edge is
bound with the tan ribbon, and a band of
the same ribbon encirc1es the crown. The
wings at the side are mixture of brown and
tan. The last hat is very broad-brimmed,
low-crowned sailor, with a band and full
bow of ribbon to match the coarse straw
which is of bright bronze color.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
An AUTUMN SUIT.

however, it was more sense of their
beauty and brilHancy he enjoyed than
their value. Those who knew him best
say that he carried valuable rubies and
emeralds in his vest pocket, and 1t
was no unusual thing to see him, after
the work Of the day was over, sitting
at his desk admiring the scintillating
lights upon the beautiful stones. He
was an expert judge of the value and
purity of gems.
NOTHING TOO GOOD.
American women possess magnificent
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
Lobster a la Newburg.

Cut the meat Of a boiled lobster into largo
dice, put into bowl then season it highly
with mustard, cayenne. salt, little paprica
blespoonful of butter into nice, clean
saucepan melt 1t and add slowly a pint of
cream in which you have beaten two whole
little cream to blend 1t and cook it until
1t is thick as q mayonnaise. Do not al
low it to boil, for fear Of curdIing. Pour the
lobster pieces In It and let it cook until 1t
is heated through. Too much heating tough
ems lobster meat. Just before serving pour
a glass Of sauterne or sherry over all and
serve hot. The dish may be garnished with
triangular pieces of toast and crisp cheese
sfraWs will be a nice addition
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-09-13
IIe werId &c Hunxry.

A mother was explaining to dininuti-e
Juvenile the meaning Of a picture represent
ing a number Of martyrs who had been
thrown TO some hungry lions.
She tried to impress his infant mind with
the terror of the scene, and thought she had
succeeded. when suddenly he exclaimed:
oh, ma Just look at that poor little lion
behind there. He won't get any,"