The San Francisco call., 1896-03-15


in such com binations as green and Parma
Violets.
The newest chimes are remarkably lovely.
Many of them are thrown on shot taffetas
and shaded grounds, as ombre effects are
among the latest novelties this year;
some of them have stripes that shade into
one another. One unusual chine effect is
on shaded ground, which appears to be
covered with minute white network, and
the chimes are thrown on pink shaded
stripes and on carmele stripes. The best
OF the chine effects are printed on the
warp; 1t is only the less expensive class in
which the pattern is printed after the silk
is woven, but this is so cleverlv done that
it exactly initiates the results obtained by
the superior methods. Chimes are also to
be had i'll a watered pattern, and numer
Gus are the Cashmerian figures. For maid
ems and youthful matrons these silks are
obtainable in coors and designs that recall
the Vatican period.
Brocades have not lost their hold on
popular favor; indeed they are much
sought for, although the best are very
costly, having become more elaborate and
complicated than ever. In white they are
thrown on chine grounds, when the flower
petals overlap each other. Satin still takes
front rank and will continue to be much
worn.
Plain colors will be favorites for walking
costumes, for unceremonious occasions,
but there are a number OF new fancy
woolens so beautiful in designs and shad
lngS that they are sure to enjoy great
favor. The thick sackcloth in blue and
the natural color will be much used for
tailor costumes and as the buttons and
waistcoats are extremely chic they will be
considerably worn. The material is thick,
although made of cotton or linen thread,
and is well suited to the style of skirt and
Ill. A Al-1
to be noted among the spring materials
are the mohairs and alpacas, with woven
silk patterns in many shades. | hear also
of kind of snowflake upon a canvas
ground that is destined to be much liked,
as the flake is always white, while the
ground may be had in any color. The
white fakes on a gray surface is very de-
sirable, but think inappropriate for sum-
mer.
Examines of totally new style are going
to be favorites. They are of a much coarser
texture than those worn last year and will
be used only by those who can afford silk
lining, the weave being so transparent.
The novelty in these etamines consists in a
tiny colored bead being dotted over the
material. They are gold, silver, blue, red
and occasionally green in color.
A new make of woolen canvas is also to
be had with silK brocade of a well covering
renaissance pattern, and the silk grena-
dimes with satin stripes or chine patterns
give the promise of pretty gowns. Many
of the colorings are less vivid than they
were, and the combinations are wonderful
and the treatment original. One of the
newest tones of green is malachite, a de-
cided coloring, for indeed we are return
ing both in patterns and tones to the fash
ions OF the early part of the century.
The revivals are vivid coquelicot, the rich
plum violet which of late we have called
eminence and glowing yellow green's: The
diagonal coating serges are sold in all the
new bright colors, and fancy woolens of all
sorts and kinds are so excellent that choice
is more than usually difficult.
1 thoroughly recommend the grass
linens. Those with silk stripes are charm
ing, but you will find the best quality
obtainable in the plain fabric more eco
nomical, if money is a consideration, for
the smart New York girl has hers made
a gold belt. This is a gown worthy of
our admiration, and very numerous
are the changes which can be made by
having an extra waist to which can be at
tached bright-hued ribbons, making an
apparently new frock every time they are
changed, but be sure TO have one at least
with gold lace and insertions.
A queer, new garment has appeared and
been received with favor, it is between a
jacket and blouse. and is said to have "a
narrow ruffie effect over the hips, and the
fullness is belted in with narrow gilt belt.
In front the fullness hangs down over the
belt" Brown and black are the two
favorite colors for this odd creation. The
gilt belt will become common all too
quickly, and black ribbon will soon displace
it, as black is being used great deal. giving
as it does, when artistically used, certain
air and touch truly Frenchy. White will
be much seen, but will not become general.
as it is expensive, having to be constantly
either washed or cleaned.
If golf is generally taken up this summer
red coats and capes will be ordered, as they
have met with approval East, being
picturesque and appropriate on the golf
field. Golf capes are to be slightly wider
this season. otherwise the cut remains the
same, and they are now in demand for
country wear as when driving no more
useful garment can be had. Double-faced
cloth is always used, and dark colors are
preferable.
1t is safe to predict that our skirts will
be less volumthous this spring, but will be
quite as graceful. The godet proper will
vanish and the fullness placed IN pleats or
gaug ngs at the back; the sides will be
fatter The jackets will all repeat the
Louis XIV and the Louis XVI form of the
winter, and the waistcoats will be prettier
than ever. walking costume is all that
good quality with a jaunty short coat and
a dear little waistcoat, perfectly fitted, just
a trihe longer than the veste. In short
time we shall most probably be wearing
sleeve of moderate width from shoulder to
wrist, sleeve which has narrow revers
over the top of the arm. or putting or
pleating OF silk or lace something like
the epaulet once worn and the au-
tumn will probably bring the severe
coat sleeve. and that will mean the Wal
teau style of gown, and, indeed, if the
fichu continues to flourish their effect
should be completed by paniers, as they
are their indispensable adiuncts, and by
those who remember their charms, and
certainly the fichu is one Of the most be-
coming articles of attire ever invented,
but it must be arranged with much care
and real art to suit the individual figure.
Some require it to be fixed SO as to form a
V, others a square, or round. as the case
may be. Most of the light gowns are to
have a ficIu, and very charming they are
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