St. Paul daily globe., 1896-04-26


be very plain gown often becomes very
elaborate affair.
Never has there been such variety Of
beautiful effects in batiste embroidery as
there is this season, and the woman who
can resist the temptation of at least one
gown trimmed with this fascinating novelty
deserves the palm for self-denial Every tint
of ecru, from cream to the brown linen color,
is represented in these beautiful trimmings,
and the very latest designs come in the wide
insertions with irregular edges and open pat
terms which makes them very decorative ex-
quisitely embroidered in various colored silks
of subdued shades prettily harmonized. In
sertions are set in across or lengthwise of the
waist, which is usually fulled little on the
shoulders, as we'll as at the belt, and while
every variety Of sleeve is used in thin gowns,
the favorites are the two extremes, close
sleeve trimmed the entire length with in
sertions or tiny ruffies of the material edged
with lace, or one made in the bishop style
with band of ribbon and a bow at the
wrist. The close sleeves are usually three
quarter length with three ruffles overlapping
each other, set on the edge. Narrow yellow
valenciennes is much used in batiste gowns
in combination with the embroidery but
only to finish an edge or trim the ruffles. Ba-
tistes with lace stripes are sometimes trim
med with one or two narrow ruffies, with
narrow heading faced with satin of the same
color as the lining, and plainly hemmed on
the lower edge and skirts with insertion
down either two four seams in front and
at the sides, and simply hemmed at the bot
tom. are quite as good style.
Ribbons of every color, either fancy or plain,
are a feature of these and all other thin gowns,
and black satin is effectually used for belt,
collar and epaulets on very sheer patiste
dresses made over apricot or orange taffeta
silk; cream lace edges the epaulets and the
belt is wide and has bow and long ends on
one side. Sashes are to be worn by young
women with the thin gowns, and Roman
sashes of soft, twiIled silk and subdued colors
have appeared again.
The first gown illustrated is of grass linen,
with a silver brocade pattern all over it. The
skirt, which is plated at the sides, has inser-
tions of batiste embroidery over white satin
down either seam in front. Plaitings of white
chiffon trim the waist down the front with
band of insertion between the points on either
side. Tartan plaid ribbon, in green, white and
black, forms the collar and belt xsx bow,
with long ends in the back.
Organdies are prettier than ever thi5 season,
and, while the tinted grounds are the newest,
the white muslins, with large punches of flow
ers almost covering the surface, are quite as
popular. They are made up elaborately over
silk, or very simply with a white lawn under
a lace-edged ruffle. Narrow edgings and in
sertions of valencennes lace are the trimming
most commonly used but wider laces very
yellow and fine, trim some of the more dressy
gowns. One organdy, white with yellow flow
ers, is made over yellow silk The underskirt
has ruffie of silk on the outside and silk
balayeuse on the inside and the edge of the
muslin skirt has cream lace ruf1e set in a
lace insertion which is pointed on the upper
edge. AS the organdy is cut out underneath
the effect is very novel. All the seams In the
skirt are made with the same tiny insertion Of
embroidery which is seen in all the finely
made lawn undergarments. The sleeves are
wrinkled over the silk lining nearly to the
shoulder, where a short puff is caught dewn
with bow of lavender satin ribbon. The
waist has a chemisette front of lace and a
fchu drapery of the ergandie edged with lace
while the belt and collar are of the lavender
ribbon.
Yellow and lavender are a very pretty
combination when the shtdes are carefully
chosen. Three very narrow rufles edged with
lace are pretty skirt trimming for muslin
gowns, but when long lines are especially
desirable trim the seams of wire-gored
skirt with yalencennes insertion a half
inch wide and frill of the narrow lace set
on either edge. The same bands trim the
waist and sleeves, and are set in around, or
up ana down close sleeve which has lace
edged rufies falling from the shoulder
Yoke waists are fashionable as ever and
one sample dress shown has yoke of al
ternate rows Of valenciennes insertion and
organdy. A lace-edged frill with a heading
to finish it across the back and front and
puffed sleeves striped with the insertion
The bows of ribbon on the shoulder are a
very pretty addition, and fancy ribbons of
ali sorts are the crowning glory Of all thin
dresses.
Piques white serge and duck gowns ere
usually made with a coat of some Sort
which is worn over a skirt waist Of silk
cotton. insertions of white embroidery set
on the edege trim the edges Of pique coats
very prettily, but they are quite as stylish
made plain. Linen canvas, in sort of gray
ecru tint, is also much used for these coat
and skirt gowns. For dressy gowns chine
silks come in for a large share of attention,
and one new model shown has bretelles and
collar of velvet, trimmed on the edge with
lace, which forms scallops. narrow yoke
of velvet extends across the front, and tiny
rufties OF silk, with velvet folds above, trim
the skirt The waist of another chine silk
gown has fchu Of white chiffon edged with
lace, and ruf1es of lace on the close-ftting
sleeves. A wide collar and bands of lace