Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-06-27

In any style you please. Absolutely. That
Is something to reflect on. Also, the vege-
tables are not indicated. This Is copied
from menu card Of the first week in june.
when the usual vegetables-asparagus.
pease string beans, egg plant, new pota-
toes, tomatoes and cucumbers-are current
even in the cheap restaurants. Were 1t
December. they would be named on the
card.
Voisin's is exactly another such restaur-
ant. Here Is dinner for two, with the
prices. Cloth and napkin. IS: one Popoff
RUSSIAN vodkD for the gentleman, 20; one
bottle Of Graves Common white Bordeaux,
go: one bottle of Beaune good ordinary
Burgundy, lao; croute-au-pot soup (only
the very best bouillon can make this dish
Distinguished, go: sole la Russo really
a sauce Normande brought Np to date].
1.60; duckling (delicately accented with a
PURGE of young turnips and cream), 5.oo;
asparagus, muslin sauce (delicately mixed
by master-hand), 2.40; glace gaufreS
(best call it an ice cream tart-the Japa-
nese trick of serving ice cream in crisp,
warm pie crusts). LOO; coffee, 80; liqueurs,
go; tip % per cent OF DILL more Ut ieSs''
60 Total, twelve dollars.
A lunch at Durand"s. 1t is always on the
principle of ordering one dish for two per-
sons. Napkins and cloth, IL; one pottle o.
Barsac "a more aromatic sWeeler "hioe
Bordeaux than Graves), 80; putter, 10,
pink shrimps, 30; eggs aux morllies Vhe
morille is a species of mushroom; the eggs
were SCRAMBLED: and the dish was mar
fonds dartichauts, $50; strawberry tart,
20; coffee, 81; tip, 40. Total, five dollars.
The pullet was very young and tender. II
had been cut up while raw and saute-eo IN
an earthen ware pot. Half the success OF
French cookery lies in the use of earthen
ware utensils. The artichoke hearts were
covered with the gravy OF the chicken.
Some remark should be made OF the eggs
Durand has an excellent egg COOK, ana
some of these Partisan egg dishes are Won
ders.. There are scrambled eggs aux crew
cites, the shrimps being served IN tne cen
ter and eggs en- cocotte au JUS which only
the best beef juice can make good call
oeufs brouilles SCRAMBLED only for want
of better word. The Durand strawberry
tart is also something to dream oi-soou'
'small-si1ed strawberries cut in hall just De-
fore wanted, moistened in little slrup
and simply warmed in haky crust before
being served. These tarts are quite re-
freShing.
These are very serious restaurants with
out a suspicion of aiming
to use the word in a good sense That Is
to say, the appeal to wonder by the SPRING
ing of sky-blue sauces, Nile-green ]ellies
ard like proprietary remedies-pleasing
rather 10 those who are just beginning to
dine well rather than to those who have
dined well always-is not conspicuous.
The great feature OF the Tour d Argent
is the Rouen duckling; that is, here, as at
Mares. Joseph's and other fin de steele
establishments the bird is jollied up under
your eyes for theatrical effect. The Rouen
duckling'-l quote very solemn, kno"-lt-
all American gourmet in Paris, who only
began to eat like this a few years ago, and
still takes a keen interest-'ls young
duck that has never laid an esg-a female
of course. 1t is strangled. and not drop
OF blood is let out of its body. 1t is baked
till it is dead juicy in a porcelain pot'-l
hay forgotten what it is baked with-"and
then brought to me to look at. Then the
master takes it away from me- places it on
chatting dish, slices off the best portions,
which he serves me in a sauce concocted
under my eyes'-no one knows what this
sauce is-"after which the carcass of the
unfortunate duck is placed in a steel press
whose force Is gigantic that the body is
reduced to the form and consistency of a
brickbat All the juice marrow and coagu-
lated blood have gushed out as from a
fountain. 1t is with the aid of this that
the wonderful sauce is made
You can also have Rouen duck in any Of