Great Falls weekly tribune., 1896-10-09
CUISINE SECRETS.
TRICKS OF THE COOKS AND THE
MARkETMEN OF PARIS.

| MARkETMEN OF PARIS.
Counterfeit Bubbles on Bouillon, Artificial
Ham Bones, Stamped Cocks Combs and
Vanished Turkey Legs Are Some of the
Partisan Deceptions.
We often hear people who have paid
25 minute visits to Paris talk Of the
beauties of Partisan cuisine. Here are
few of them. just as tho Parisians,
like tho cockncy coffcehouse keepers,
have found out how to make coffee
without coffec so have also the Partisan
restauratcurs found out how to make
bouillon, Or beef tea, without beef. At
the gargotes, tho lowest class of Paris
restaurants, o species Of very ingenious
fraud has now been common for over
half century and maybe more. 1t con-
sists in passing off warm water, colored
and favored with burned onions and
caramel and into which somo little
grease bubbles havo been injected, as
soup. 1t is true that bones which have
been twice stcwod, first by tho larger
restaurants and secondly by the inferior
class OF traitcurs and cast away as done
with, are stcwcd in this water for the
third time, i'll order that it may be i'm
pregnated if possible, with somo parti-
Gle Of animal substance; but, as this op-
Grafton fails to impart to it those little
greasy bubbles which tho French term
"eyes," and for which tho shrewd fre-
qucnters of these establishments invaria-
bly, look i'll order to satisfy themselves
that the broth thew drink has been act
ually made from meat, clever cook
got over tho difficulty by blowing
spoonful Of fish oil, which, falling into
the caldron or soup tureen, formed the
eyes SO dear to cpicurcs.
Parisians Ct certain class are inordi-
nate eaters of ham-in fact, almost as
many hams are eaten in Paris as could
be furnished by all tho pigs killed
throughout tho whole of Franco, even
allowing for both shoulder and leg be-
ing cured in accordance with French
practice. The demand uscd-and may
be now-to be supplied in this wise.
The dealers in cooked hams bought up
the old ham bones at a couple Of sous
piece and irgcniously inserted them into
pieces Of picked pork, which they trim.
med into shape and coated with grated
crusts. In this way many bones did duty
hundreds Of times over. lasting, in fact
for years They would leave tho dealers
in the morning and frequently return
to them the same night, to quit them
again tho following day. Nevertheless
the supply could hardly keep pace with
tho demand. Only fancy the inconvcn-
ience Of having to wait for your ham
until your neighbor's servant took back
the ham bone which tho charcutier re-
lied upon receiving yesterday! It was to
obviate such state Of things that an
ingenious individual conceived the idea
of manufacturing ham bones wholesale,
and ere long he drove a thriving trade
at 10 sous q dozen, since which time
the stock Of hams has augmented and
the delicacy has become less difficult of
attainment Much in the same way an
other ingenious individual, knowing the
immense consumption of cocks combs in
Paris for ragouts, coquillcs of cocks
combs and vol-au-vcnts and seeing the
high prices the said cocks combs COM
manded owing to the limited supply,
set to work to minister to the demand
and duly established himself as man
ufacturCr of cocks combs So extensive
was the trade done by him that he
found it necessary to set up small
steam engine. He was great enthusiast
and was accustomed to prido himself
= %l,n
emanated from his atelicr being great
ly superior to tho natural article.
This is the way our artist went to
work. AS the same method is largely
worked at this day in London as well
as in Paris-ay, and in New York and
New Orlcans-we purposcly use the
present tense for u time. He takes the
goat-either will do, though he prefers
tho first. After having blanched it in
boiling water he macerates it and de-
taches the flesh Of the palatic vault
without in the slightest degree dcrang-
ing it and then places it under stamp
ing machine which punches out cocks
combs more perfect in shape than those
produced by nature, yet sufficiently re-
sembling them to deceive the connois-
seurs. Still, there is u way of detecting
the artificial production--the cocks
combs of clumsy nature have papillH on
both sides, whereas those Of art have
them only on one. Counterfeit cocks
combs arc sold as low as sous the
dozen in Paris to poultercrs, keepers Of
restaurants, pastry cooks, etc, and at
sous to cooks in private families.
Apropos Of our subject, this man, in
his intercourse with poultcrcrs, got to
learn that when they did not sell their
turkeys off at once they We're obliged
to lower the price about one-tifth every
subsequent day or submit to IA loss, al
though the turkey might present the
same appearance of freshness that it did
when first killed And yet no cook could
be deceived, and this solely because the
birds legs, which We're black and shiny
on the day of its death, assumed a more