New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-10-11
HOW 1T IS CHANGING INTO =
RESTAURANT.
PLACES OF NEWER SORTS WHERE THE oAf Oh"
DOGS MUST SEEK THEIR BONES.

hunt the Welsh raDpit 70 pe "'"""''
for the purpose. - a..,.s.
Ths s,arm,st who sounded this note OF aespe"
maan mt by II tina. the few choice chophouses OF w.
York were becoming no longer ehopho"s.s
restaurants Back In the years that ne se"e"o,sSs'
when he was only twenty-three there VIZ ~
chophouses In the city that any city m~n' .e"
.,oud NJ Each Of them had its circle OF deso'eS
nar,,r.,. nd attendants They we're comparatively
ANAL nIaces as Lighthouses always ought 10 -
thew were decorated with characteristic AN"
nronriate pictures; the food served was Oh W
that showed that the proprietor was PROUD y. ~
kitchen and that the cook was watchiui Oh w. W.
tere,ts OF his employer: the ales we're put .hte
.a.,,sr ru., and brown tobiss. Everything about
the plaees made the visitor who had any imass-
nation at ali feel that he on classic grouho Az"
brea thing fine and poetic atmosphere. No "oi'"
were admitted. A woman In chophouse - q. '"Ns
out of place as a man not In hoiy orae's -
sewing circle. Any one who had read books. ans
.hrouch them had supped and drunk with Thackerss
and Dickens and DR.. Johnson and Goldsmltn-yes'
md with shaksspeare-could feel glow OF rap'u''
Gus comfort growing upon hin IN sueh P'so..
could people II for himself with snaoo"s io," 49,.
came TO be almost more than shadows AZ ne n,'s"
himself more with the positive liquids and SOLOS,
ond though he might not be a poet In the power
~ exnression he could become enc for the nour 10
the swelling of his heart. and he couid n'aAe 81.
read the poetry there which lacked only the rcco."
and the conveyance to others to place IL WIN '"s
treasured poetry Of the world.
And So a halo lives about
The waters hands, tina, reach
To each his perfect pint OF stoif
His proper chop 10 eaeh
ALL THAT A CHOPHOUsE SHOULD PE
And NOW the charge is made that these places -
Incoming restaurants. Are they So Ana way
Nav, these are the qualifications OF good caop'
house: II must be small, comior.ap'e' pe+@'
The service and things served must both pc OF nis"
oualtv. there must be nothing gorgeous or gal'sn'
everything should look old as possible put ceA"'
:, rust he ou;et and orderly; the bill OF rare must
bo small-no profusion of soups, entrees foa"s s"o
deserts-t,st griIlroom bill OF fare; there mus' 70
no women And this was. generally speakihs' sns
description OF each OF tho ''ie'
have been mentioned. -.
a.. ~ ,hem became overcrowded and the pro-
nrietors head was turned: another got hsh 'de..'
the third was too far downtown 10 Dc o'e'e.'
H. esca ped the high ideas IN measure anu ;. "
los, less of rs old character than either Q. -
others ', Is hard thing TO bear prosperity wl"-
~, ii,,ry When q man who keeps chophouss
eass his tables full every night and men golps
away because they cannot ina places 10 81. "o~'
he naturally begins tn think tnat II ne Ia" ''o
room he could accommodate more people ana ".ss
more money. He may know that such thous"'
q, u,rope hut he gets to breeding on 1t, the tsme~-
,,.r 10 great and at last he enlarges mis- placs'
and then II is no longer a small place ahd I" nss
iost thereby one of the qualifications OF the oes'
ina ginabe place. ,,.>
Than somebody who does not know cnopnouD
from q restaurant asks for something Una. =, o
an the bill of fare. The proprietor thinks htue rs
4, q, 6rst but when things that are not on the OH
~ fare are asked for again and again. ne gets :"
brooding once more and in the emo no en'a.s~
his bill of fare and another qualheaton Is 'oS'.
The men who frequent the place 20 hoi"e anu
tell their wives and sisters about II ana 'ne Wv
and sisters want to see It. The men go TO the pro-
nrietor and ask him TO let them bring their wives
and sisters. II only to look in for a moment ana
see how the place looks. He refuses peeause W
Knows that this would be stem toward the iu"
Of his business but he sroods AGAIN. ar room ne Whers
Women Won could be permitted. And pop goes anotnsr
qualification.
THE DANGER OF THESE THINGS.
Il IL hard to see how enlargng the bill OK faTe
and letting women into an ADJOINING lo'" ness
the chophouse for those who valued 1t IN It's nrst
s,,,o, There ought not to be any adjoining room
f,r women or men, either. The proprietor ana MS
oook ought TO devote all their artistic attention
TO making the small place perfect VINE" '"es
begin to try to get moro customers. instead OF IVY
ing for nothing but tho making OF the customers
thew have supremacy happy, their work VIII sunes'
unIess they are more than human Ineh the ca.
Urging of the bill OF fare brings In crowd OF
people who are looking for restaurant ana VINO
are uncongenial to those who care less ABOUT inc
variety Of the things that they eat man aoout VI"
Mace and the society III WHICH 'noS cav 'S''
The blight that rests the genuine chophouss
in Nsw.York is the same that would ruin an Eng
| ush bar II such an experiment were ever uieo'
| Tha question mas often been asked why there
"a no real English bar in New-fork inc reason
Is simple and plain. The American par ihcuoss
The Enuiish and a good deal more; Every tnnH H
sold at an Apercan bar that Is sold at an Ensl sn
violent Anglomaniacs TO support snop WIN an III
ferior assortment of goods st cav chosen se
English And Just SO only rev OF tne cnosem -
any reason fer going TO place ior s"ppe a ,hers
! thew must choose among few things; wnen tnerc
! are plenty Of places where they may cnoose Among
The The cate OF the hotel or the large restaurant y
| another enemy Of the choph?use. " Is smea.
! room made to look like a real chophouse. ~ tEe
winter It very likely has an open IRE Win pern1 IA
nrin,sNcolored cartoons pictures Of stage coaches
and pictures Of prizefshts-hung al arounn -:
| Only men are admitted 10 the outwdIg ess HcaS
are ali the comforts Of the true chorhouse. anc
YOU can get to eat practically, anything tnas
served in any part OF the hotel u takes oniy
little more maSnation 20 feel poeteai mere tnan
tsmp,ed dat 10 spoil Il because making his
ness and 1t is Just large enough TO accommoosss
The sad fact for the old convivalist TO digess
ia that there Is not much room for the perfect 4a
fashioned chephouse In the city OF New ork
world moves. the new crowns GU. unr S,Hii M
Even poetic ideals must be read1usted someslmes:
| and the man who loves 10 eat his chop or ntS
rabbit in quiet and artists sesIoslS S may na mrS ~
only have a sound English name, with no accent
mark on ii. Probably the gay old dogs ought
to be THANKFUL that the hotelkeeper has been %
nrrovlkSed them With so comfortable a ksansi
| In the place OF their beloved old one.
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