The San Francisco call., 1896-09-27

the pattern for which is cut out and laid
over cloth-of-gold. A great deal of silver
embroidery will probably be seen this
season, especially on the vests of chic
cloth gowns, and for such there are an
Infinite number of coats. The tight-fttlng
coat with the loose double-breasted front
will still be worn, but the newest models
from both London and Paris are loose
both in back and front. One very popular
model is built like mans driving coat,
and another recalls sack coat; it has a
yoke, from which falls the side pleating
in which the material is laid in the front
and the back, the sides being plain. The
collar should be great ruff OF pleated
Liberty satin fur or chiffon, as one likes.
The sleeves recall the bishop mode, con-
siderably modified. Equally in favor is
the coat having tight-htting back and
blouse front. 1t usually is belted in with
a narrow ribbon of Russian gold. The
sleeves are the regular coat sleeves. With
all varieties of coats may be worn waists
OF blue white satin made very severely with
many pleats, like q mans outing shirt,
and they should be worn with a stock of
black satin.
The latest information concerning skirts
is noteworthy:
Skirts will not be any wider the coming
season. and where trimming is used, as it
promises to be very generally, they will be
considerably narrower Wherever the weight
OF the material will permit, the skirt should
be mounted separately from the lining, as a
soft clinging effect is the conspicuous feature
OF the newest French models. In every case
the stifening is confined to good hair-cloth
n 70, \
and feather bone sewn around the entire
width of the skirt.
Some pretty bridesmaids costumes are
being made for next month of white silks.
The skirts are quite plain, the bodices
have boleros only in front of striped white
satin and silk; round the edges is broad
thick guipure, from under which falls a
frill Of soft silk lace of creamy yellow.
This lace extends down the back in a
double frlll made to be perfectly fat; it
is met by strip of the same guipure. The
guipure also encircles the waist and the
wrists. The tight sleeves are completely
covered with white chiffon drawn over
them in narrow pufings; it is draped
softly from the shoulders.
Dresses for evening wear are beginning
to demand our serious attention, and in
Paris diaphanous textures are numbered
among the most modish and deliceuse
toilets, with laces and entredeux the
main trimming, as they are all worn over
brilliant transparencies of taffeta. Satin
striped gauze, painted muslins as they are
called, ideally lovely tissues, mousseline
de sole and grass lawns are the founda-
tions for every pretty frock this summer.
Writes Partisan CORES pondent:
Many Of such fairy fabrics will be used for
the next six months and from them will be
evolved frocks worthy of the blushing debu-
tante, the radiant belle and the chic matron
Imagine, if you can. anything prettier than
white mousseline de sole sprayed over with
yellow laburnum blossoms and built over yell
low silk. The skirt was draped with the silk
under 1t about the waist and hips, as all such
light materials generally are, while below
they hang separately. On the bottom of the
skirt were three rows of yellow mousseline
plisse in narrow RUTHLESS put on in close scoI-