The San Francisco call., 1896-02-23
at the back and is supported by hand

at the back and is supported by a hand
some aigrette.
is said that light green of the seau de
nile" tone will be one of the most fashion
able coiors In millinery. Quite feature IN
millinery is new soft silk plat, about q
quarter of an inch wide.
IL Is an acknowledged fact that English
women, even of the most exalted rank.
are not in the least "smart" in appear
ance. "Piccadilly." writing from London,
says: The Princess of Wales, who is
perennially pretty and ALWAYS looks well,
could never be described as really well
dressed. Princess Henry of Pless actually
dresses badly" etc. l think this CORE
spondent goes rather far in saying so much
about the Princess of Wales, for not long
since read an article criticizing her for
giving so much care and thought concern
ing personal adornment, and it is a we'll
known TACT that every morning her face is
as carefully touched up as though it were
hne miniature, and her hair is
SO thin that she is compelled to have the
| assistance of an artistic hair-dresser to pro-
duce the desired effect and she always has
to wear false front. This is a most un-
becoming style, which has been blindly
copied by many English women. The
Princess is credited with perfect taste and
desire to be BEAUTIFULLY garbed. Lady
Warwick is so beautiful that she always
attracts attention, which she Graves, and is
never weary of getting up theatrical
ei1ects One night this winter at the opera
she appeared "all in Mephistophelean
scarlet without an ornament of any kind"
Her hair was held up in scarlet net from
which arose vivid aigrette.
omartness Is said to mean neatness, but
1t means that and great deal more, and
know that we have more really "smart"
looking women in America in proportion
to our population than any country in the
fnr d. -
ally attired in either hopeless frumpish or
ioud clothing, the best dressed women
being found among the country gentle
women.
1t is announced Baron d'Euchtritz is
about to marry Miss Crocker of Cleve-
land, who fulfills the Baron's require
ments, that is, she is very wealthy, and,
nate propensity for frizzes, and (lell it not
IN Gath y has been seen to flourish the
ubiquitous toothpick after dinneE the
skillful handling of which, however. is d
mark OF distinction in the West" Now,
this particular Miss Crocker may daily
appear toothpick in hand, and l have
heard OF other people who did likewise,
but we ali mentally even in California,
place such people where they would be
most comfortable.
Last year "Cheiro" interested New York
profoundly in palmistry, and he is again in
New York, charging $5 to every one who
consults him. He is expected to be the
him amuse their guests after lunch or
dinner
AT the present m oment green stones are
the most fashionable, and of course emer-
aids come first under this head, 'green
diamonds and green sapphires being too
small and rare for consideration" 1t is
said that almost every emerald has some
defect without q tiaU 20 m r,IV rrioa-
less.
Next to emeralds come perhdots, by
which name Indian chrysolites are known
in France. These stones are difficult to
cut or polish, being very soft, but are said
to be lovely stones, being of clear leaf
placed beside the blue tone of color OF the
emerald. Both of these stones gain new
beauty when set with diamonds. "About
twenty years ago fashion came in of set
ting peridots with enamel and surround
ing them with pearls. This fashion now
seems to have returned"
Watches, except tiny jeweled or beauti-
fully enameled ones, are never now worn
by women who pay any attention to Dame
Fashions mandates. Pearls are steadily
decreasing in value, being no longer
fashionable.
Now that most of our gowns require
much braiding, embroidery or lacework
and the dressmakers make such absurd
charges for expert handwork, clever girls
everywhere are learning to do these things
for themselves. For example, one ex-
quislte creation has its sleeves of rose pink
satin embroidered with fine black chenille
in coral designs. The effect was excellent
and not difficult of execution. | have just
seen gown from one of our best women,
and owing TO the fact that there was some
little embroidery about it there was an
extra charge of $40, which the owner of
the gown could have saved as easily as
not, being herself skilled needlewoman.
A fancy Of the moment are the exquisite
little bags now carried by smart women.
One of pale blue velvet has the owners
crest embroidered in silver. Fashionable
women now have quite a collection of such
bags, as they are exceedingly useful now
that our skirts have no proper place for q
pocket. These bags must be large enough
to contain a handkerchief, bonbonniere
and vinaigrette. They are usually OF vel
vet and embroidered with crest or mono
gram, q silver or gold tassel finishes the
bag, where the fabric IS drawn together.
The strings are double.
Berkeley is to have golf links, so next
week will give some descriptions of some
good costumes. as the women are taking
quite as much interest as the men.
Mr.. Irving and Miss Terry will shortly
be in Chicago and while here Irving is GO
ing to present a drama which he decided
not to venture on in either London or New
York. for in it Miss Terry takes the part
of a, leper. Positively think this carry
ing the craze for realism too far and am
rather surprised at Mr.. Irving giving such
play his serious consideration. However
/ presume the theater will, under the cir
cumstances. be packed nightly, for many
enjoy extremes liking to either laugh, cry
or have creepy fee ing, and Ellen Terry
as leper will certainly produce that sem
sation. MARCELLA.
FOR MEN,
White evening waistcoats are cut very
low and have no collar Tho hutton c