The San Francisco call., 1896-03-22

i Y N all our bellies, as a result, are
anticipating an exceedingly
bright Eastertide, and l sincerely trust
they may not be disappointed, and that
the various resorts will be unusually gay
this summer is a safe prediction. The
meeting of the Fortnightly during the
past week was very successful, as were
also the card parties and the pretty but
small tea at which about twenty guests
were entertained.
1t is quite the thing to discuss trous-
seaux, and one lovely girl, soon to become
bride, has rarely perfect taste, which she
has always exhibited even as bud. All
her gowns are to be models of simplicity;
but even the most Insignificant are to be
lined with exquisitely tinted silks. and
her house gowns are revelations of what
dressmakers can accomplish, and make it
very apparent that it is not necessary to
send across the continent or to Europe for
satisfactory clothing. 1t is no longer the
style, for those who can afford it, to wear
anything even at home not composed of
the richest fabrics. which are truly ad-
mirable when made without ornamental
tion with long flowing draperies. Two or
three materials are not lnfrequently used
in com mbination.
Cashmere is again to be worn in the
house, and is of very superior weave, and
may be had in every shade imaginable.
A mohair crepon is a fabric being much
asked for, as it is correctly considered
more satisfactory than cashmere, and Tor
evening wear great will be the demand for
all sorts and kinds of fancy gauZes, which
viii be made up over silks or satins into
ideal dresses.
The rumor that black and white is to be
the rage for spring wear IS now confirmed,
Z. IL |. De- -
are not black and white are white and
black. while frequently black is seen faced
with white, and some especially fetching
models are made of black and white check.
The small black and white check, COM
mercially known as shepherds S plaid. is a
delightful fabric IN its way, and should be
bought in tweed and not in material of
a light texture. Undoubtedly it is most
effective when faced with black, and worn
over white shirts, or those which have
broken line of black on white ground.
There are many varieties of detached
motifs in the grass cloth guipure in jet en-
broidery and in broderie anglaise. Many
are sold in sets of three-graduated. The
most artistic results in muslin are pro-
duced by light guipure effects. The Bre-
ton laces are again coming in. Great
quantities appear in a single frock, as they
are gathered and very full. Spotted Va
lenciennes, Brussels, Chantilly and appli-
que are to be used in the same way, and as
butter lace is found to be more adaptable
than dead white it will be first choice
Tambour laces are also revived. Many old
patternS-are to be Seen-such as the Etrus-
can and Swiss em6roideries of several
kinds. Many laces appear on new foun-
dations, among which are the wire grounds
and the cherry ones, and one OF the latest
novelties reported are the Astrakan laces
disks in the pattern representing the fur
These, hear, are almost all carried out in
geometrical designs. Very lovely are the
laces embroidered in the many colored
silks. Some have out one color to outline
the pattern.
At present in Paris there is sad lack of
good plays on the boards, even at the prin-
cipal theaters, so the feminine portion of
the audiences have to content themselves
with criticizing what is worn, as what is
supposed to constitute the plot of say
M. Meilhac's new play, "Grosse Fortune
Is not worthy of much thought and even
Mile. Bartet, the leading lady, is said not
to exhibit her usual excellent taste in the
selection of the materials which compose
her costumes. However, they are all
handsome dresses, worthy of description.
The one worn in the first sct is very simple, !,
being of rose pink crepon over beautiful
quality of glace of the same shade. Lace
adorns the neck and wrists and
ribbon of satin the waist. The Sec
ond toilette is of white and gold
over pleated mousseline de sole. The
sleeves are of mandarine velvet richly en-
hroidered in gold, and are very mnch ad-
rnired. Miss Bartet shows fancy for odd
sleeves in strong contrast to her gowns,
and in many cases the results are not
happy. A gorgeous evening robe is next
exili bited. 1t consists of alternate stripes
of yellow moire and pink roses upon a
white ground. The bodice is of pink satin
covered with lace. The sleeves are of
double fall of lace. The tea gown worn by
this actress justified the price charged for
it-S600-ihe front being OF mousseline de
soie literally covered with Partisan dia-
monds. The back is of bright yellow satin
embroidered with scarlet and red roses.
The sleeves are of the mousseline de sole
caught up with roses and choux of ribbon.
Critics remark concerning this robe that
ANYTHING more vast would be difficult to
In the same play Vile. Brandes appeared
in an exceedingly tasteful frock of Nile
green mirror velvet exquisitely cut, but
simply made. The skirt was perfectly
plain, just sweeping the ground at the
back The bodice was cut in low square
back and front, and the sleeves reached the
wrists Pale pink roses and white lace
encircIed the decolletage, and at the left
side was large bunch of Parma violets.
Her ball dress also excited admiration,
being of satin of crevette shade embroi-
deled with branches Of dropping glycine
worked in gold. The sleeves were of lace.
Over this was worn an opera cape of white
mousseline de sole, with three bands of
EN- broidery inserted within half yard of
the hem The upper part was composed
Of deep fall of lace from the shoulders in
the form of pelerine sewn upon square
empiecement OF pearl embroidery. White
ostrich feathers completed the collar.
have just heard OF delightful gown
hU DnrhaSS q
Vendone (nee Princess Henriette).. 1t
was brcche silk IN rose color and silver,
had a pointed court bodice artistically
draped with embroidered lisse laid over
nale-blue satin, the sleeves being of the
same, with insertion bands of the lisse and
silver ribbon. Panels OF the blue satin
yejIed with the lisses are let into the skirt
Annthor Of her dresses in which the ceru-