The Norfolk Virginian. [volume] (Norfolk, Va.) 186?-189?, 1896-07-05
The Knlekerhockar is Still the Choice with
French Whaelmen In General.
SOME RAvlsHISG suanER TOILETS.
Suitable for the Mountains. Sea-
shore. bicycling and bathing
Caps ana Fichu Effects Are Dcci-
dedly Out ofDute-yelvet Used as
Trimming is thc General Favoritc.

Alpine dress VIII this year, II is salu,
show great modification over the past
Times are changed since a woman
tucked her petticoat up to her ankles
and was thus dressed to climb Mount
Blanc. Hundreds of women are now
pedaling the Swiss vailayS in knicker-
bockers and it is not supposable that
they will change them for skirts to
span dizzy foot bridges In the clouds.
For note that, however much the fash
ion of a skirt for the bicycle Is spread
elsewhere, with French women in gen.
eral is 1t the knickerbocker that remains
the choice.
There have in fact been some cos
tunes made for Swiss expeditions that
are masterpieces of tailoring art and
the last word of chic. One of these in
as follows: 1t is of navy blue serge
made with u loose box coat and knick-
erbockers, and trimmed with black
braid and BrandDourgS. The Jacket has
no seam behind, and the under arm
seams are straight and are left open at
the bottom like tie seams Of q shirt.
The length from the neck down i'll the
back is about twenty inches. II is dou-
BILE breasted in front with the Brand
bourgs over. The collar is so cut that
1t stands high behind and flares over on
the edge, an effect that to produce re-
quires pressns iron and skillful hand.
Braid edges the collar and the front:
braid also runs in several lines down
the sleeves and down the knicilerbock
erS. These last have special cut
Some OF the fullness is gOred out round
the top, which gives an elegant outline
to the ficue. Under this dress is worn
q combination flannel. and Il tricot
woclen blouse that slips on over the
head. and the effect is completed with
tarpauln sailor hat. high black gal
ordered OF the mountain shoe
makers on the spot. however,
strong, are not adapted TO climbing.
They must be not only stout but broad
l,.aN-
died with nails. And the elegant grace
of the costume in contrast with the
heavy clumSnesS of the shoes furnishes
the greatest element of piquancy TO the
dress.
EXCURSION COSTUMES.
II one is not going TO the high Alps.
where tt Is likely to rain every day. bu:
say TO Mount Washington or to the
Rockies, there is possibly more latitude
in the choice of material and design
and there exists in ihc fashions already
being worn a number of elements tina;
can be utilized to make rav!shing noun
tain Gowns or that can nj the game time
be adopted for the bicycle. There is one
observation that may be made on the
adapt!bility of the following costumes.
Bicycle skirt: are usually plain or at
most are trimmed with lines running up
and down; they ave nCa; trimmed round
the bottom; but the intelligent reader
will know how to compromise Ion the de-
sign.
~ model for wool excursion gowns in
great favor with young women is 4
bodice rthaf !: both blouse and jacket.
Imagine q blouse cut low round the
neck and cut open down the front 10 the
belt over high inner bodice or guimpc
of another color. with below the belt u
little round basque some four inches
wide. The neck that runs low IN front
runs high behind, runs up TO form a
ni,,,. IN, = lao ,,f y
reaches clear to the top Of the neck band.
This pointed back, 1t may be said. is on
gowns of all sorts, ana Is one of the nov
elites OF the season. Instead Of being
cut down low IL front sometimes rhe
iron! edges run up 10 the cOihlr band
and meet, and from here curved outline
Is cut round to the point behind, leaving
the under bodice TO show over the .houl-
ders like 4 thin crescent moon. The
inner and outer bodice are of course
made on the same lining and II is only in
effect that they are two.
Made upon this model Is a gown OF
baize colored wool trimmed with white.
braid, over 4 guinpe Of white silk. The
brtlfd Is in four rows straight round the
skirt. with a hfth row above in loops.
and the same pattern Il car ried out
round the neck and down The fronts and
round the basque. This combination of
baiZe or dust color with white is very
effective is of navy blue serge trimmed
with black braid over Il guimpc OF deep
yellow The collar band IL of black ga tin
with ai yellow plaihinG round the top
Navy blue sailor With rlatings of yell
low !ibbon and black wings
Among the most felic!tous new cos
TUNES made especially for the bicycle
may be counted one that has a skirt of
striped hhiZe color and white. a figure
JACKIE. with rounded fronts and very
open, of plain ba!ze color. and a skirt
of white silk. Straw sat!Or with whit .
band. a knot of colored rIbbon at the
throat. And also another which if less
delic.ously delicate has Ind compensa ton
more effect. 1t is all of plain ba:ze
cloth. finished with Stitching. and IS
made with a figaro like the above and
knickerbockers. The jacket opens over
a shirt OF dark brown silk. and the shirt
cuffs turn up cI the outside over tine
3aeketl sleeve. Knot of almond green
ribbon ait the throat. Brown stockings
OF invisible plagd. and low tan shoes.
NOVELTIES FOR THE SEASHoRE.
A new idea is to contrast diaphanous
materials with black velvet. Every
fhing, chsffon. ribbon, lace. is bound with
velvet. What was vague in outline and
merely ceased like drifting vapor has
now as distinct an edge as "a COW on a
close hoNZon. The butterflies used on
0oques, even, have their wings oil bound
with velvet. 1T is not a tremendous dn-
ventson, but ideas are so scarce this