The San Francisco call., 1896-08-23

During the next five weeks we will read
a great deal about novelties ana the
changes in fashions and can gradually
make up our minds concerning What 1ao-
RIGS and styles will best become US Tor the
autumn and winter seasons. Even the
least frivolous of women are wise TO give
such subjects their grave consloeratlon'
unless they are so situated financially tnat
they can give the best dressmakers, tallors
and milliners carte blanche.
But in most cases much thought must
he bestowed upon our wardrobes before
the desired results are obtained, One OF
tine first gowns we should consider is q
taiIor-made one. Now, take my advice
and spend no lucre experimenting with
tailoresses who are said to do just as salts
factory work as men, for have made the
experiment and have come to the conclu-
sion that unless one can afford tailor
dress from one of the best makers 1t is far
wiser to have good dressmaker design
simple little cloth frock and make it do
duty for tailor gown, for botched tailor
suit is such conspicuous and, as nat
ural result, an utterly useless affair.
When possible have the entire garment
made over silk, but if that is rather more
than you can afford have the skirt made
over the very best mohair obtainable, and
if you have a Jacket see that the lining is
of avery superior grade of silk, and if the
material is somber in character you can
frequently by selecting novelty silk give
the garment an indescribable cachet.
After the cloth frock or the tailor-made
gown is completed to your entire satis-
faction it is well to see that your hat,
gloves and shoes leave nothing to be de-
sired. / know of more than one stylish
girl in this City who has made a smart
tailor dress do duty all through the win
ter for calling and tor the swellest of teas,
merely substituting for the severe little
waistcoat or vest dressy vest, or a dainty
waist which can be worn with such ad-
vantage under iaunty coat. On such
occasions lighter gloves are also DOM ed.
For those who already have purcha sed
their cloth let me say there are three
tailors in the City who stand well, whom
| know of, who will accept and make up
your own materials, and only one, l be-
lieve, who declines to do so-at least, he
will take all you send him, but Will make
no allowance whatever for your goods.
For instance, if your gown is to be ordered
entirely from him and is to cost $96 or
$3.50, he will charge you exactly the same
If you send to him every inch of silk and
cloth you wish used but by purchasing
your fabrics, even if you pay $40 for the
making of a skirt vest Tor waistcoat) and
jacket you can save considerable. There is
a well-founded rumor that all tailor suits
are to be very elaborately braided. The
finest of such work is now figuring in sew
eral exquisite suits from Paris and every
stitch OF the braiding was done by hand.
Crepe de chine is held in great favor,
and dress of shade of softest pink was
worn a few evenings ago by one of our fair
matrons. Round the hem and up each
seam of the skirt was exquisite Brussels
lace applique. The lace on the low-cut
bodice was much beauti6ed by the addi-
ton of many opals, and threads OF gold
appeared to be interviewer. The skirt fell
over slip of pink glace silk OF one shade
darker pink. Another lovely conception
worn the same evening was a glace silk of
lime-green and white. The yoke of green
was introduced in the front only, and
bands depended from it to the waist COW
cred with seed pearls and bordered with
lace.
The sleeves were small and puffy, the
green completely covered with pearl stud
ded lace. The skirt of white glace had
three small and very full pinked out