The herald., 1896-01-05

Jackets cut rather short and of the same
length all around are made with very baggy
loose fronts, there being no shaping to the
figure apparent from the front, the line SEEM
ing to be a straight one from under the arms,
As a matter of fact, the entire front is set
on like a box plait and from the back the
fitting into the figure under the arms is seem
Sleeves are all of the melon oTder-that is,
they hang loose and are so full that they
groove themselves in oblong folds that re-
mind one somewhat of the long cantaloups,
while the whole sleeve is in outline like a very
big and long water melon.
really undemonstrative hat may be made
picturesque enough to satisfy the most tri-
umphant belle by putting a flaring double
rufle along the edge made by the joining Of
the sides and top of the hat This rutfe may
extend all around the edge of the top. or it
may flare gloriously right in front and narrow
promptly to nothing at the sides, giving a
helmet effect to the front. This addition OF
fare makes a hat lend itself at once to the
droop of plumes and the array of audacities
that makes picture hat worthy of the name.
The same effect in even greater degree is at
tanned by setting a false top of velvet or
brocade over the top of the hat and allowing
the former to extend in a faring ruffie be-
yond the real top. This rufe is then pushed
up to accommodate the noddng heads of
heavy plumes or the glittering arch of jew
eled buckle, the edge of the brim is extended
false top and the whole brm is bent out Of
shape. The hat is set on head band o..
bright color. in which is tucked a knot OF
pendant flowers. under it all is set girl who
is, of course, just the right sort, and behold!
the hat is at once lost sight Of. One only
realizes that she is looking at the prettiest gin
in the world, who is wearing a something or
other that makes her look very pretty.
The fashionable woman fairly revels in
luxury this season, for all the modes are
decidedly luxurious, and very poorly suited
to slim purses. Vevets and furs, furs and
vevets, seem to be the beginning and end
of fashions dictums, and, oh, such costly
furs. Ermine never was cheap possibly be-
cause 1t is the fur of royalty, possibly be-
cause Of its own WORTH but it was always
beautiful, and is so now; a fact most wo-
men realize and utilize to the best of their
ability. An altogether charming CAPE with
long stole ends, is among the fur wraps OF
one OF New York's beauties, and a very re-
gal appearance she makes In its snowy
beauty. The body of the cape is of rich
olive green velvet, extremely full and edged
broadly with rich embroidery placed fatty
on it.
Over this futters a deep butterfly cape
or ermine with a jaunty collar standing
| up about the face. One end Of the cape is
drawn over the bust. surplice fashion. OF
| rather, in the style of the favorite fichus
and from the waist fall two long tails o1
the fur, finished with a row of tails. A
dainty ermine muff completes the set.
Richly brocaded satin, with peachy pinl
groundwork, lines the garment throughout
while the same shade of pink is seen in thu
smart head-dress of roses. topped off by 1
single black plume.
So many fetching affairs are made fo
theater wear, in which ermine is combined
One very pretty one, and one easily copied
has for a foundation an ermine collarett
with small head and tail.
Full jabots CT webby lace were arrange
softly at the front; in the folds We're nestle