The San Francisco call., 1896-08-16

But Jew PrinceSseS have hao SO satis-
factory trousseau as the Princess MAUD,
and this is largely owing to the TACT tna'
she is a Young woman gifted with an
unusuaI amount of taste, individually,
and that very necessary possession, 1mag-
ination. Naturally her Highness' weo-
ding dress and the costume she went away
in were made in London, but very
numerous were the frocks ordered IN
Paris, and for many years the Prlncess
of Wales has had most OF her gar
ments made in the French capital.
AS some of my readers may like one OF
these days 20 patronize the dressmaker OF
the Princess of Wales, who has certainly
marvellous TASTE let me tell them that
Mime. Froment, rue de la Paix, designs
manv of her handsomest gowns. As her
Highness is at present wearing second
mourning, she has recently received sew
eraI in shades of mauve. One is lilac
mousseline de sole, over silk OF
the same shade, trimmed with cream lace
and silver embroidery, the bodice being
slightly open, but not cut low, sort OF
demi-toilette. Another suggests charm
ing possibilities. 1t is of pearl-gray silk
muslin, over MORE of the same tint.
Beautiful embroidery on white satin rib
bon in black and steel spangles is used
as band, collar, etc. Many more cos
tunes from this excellent woman might
be mentioned, but before taking
leave of Nine. Froment, let me tell
YOU that all these dresses have the
skirts made extremely plain, all ornamen-
tation being on the bodices. and it is to be
noticed that their materials are no longer
lined with silk, but worn separately over
what in days long past was called silk
slip.
But to return to the wedding. On
that occasion the mother of the bride
wore a toilette of pearl-white satin, veiled
in gIittering tulle, which suited her ad-
mirably.
The royal bride wisely decided not to
have too great number of gowns, we'll
knowing how rapidly styles change, caus-
ing the most exquisite of creations to be-
come de mode within three months at the
most. All her frocks, without exception,
have plain gored skirts without godets,
there being no fullness whatever at the
waist One much admired has white
satin skirt and a low bodice covered with
silk muslin, embroidered with soft raised
Louis Seize bows IN white silk and silver
thread, with good-sized pearl in the cen
ter of each.
The sleeves are all friIls of snowy white
chiffon, and over the berthe is turned q
yelling of black tulle. sprinkled with dia-
monds; and the deep folded black is not
merely outlined with diamonds-it is
simply covered with them.
A primrose satin toilet is draped with
pale green net with punches of small
silver berries on it, and the drapery is
drawn into a deep satin waistband. The
skirt is cut with train and has panel of
the silver r-studded green net terminating
in large bow at the edge. A dress of the
lovely material called "moire velours" in
pale blue is richly embroidered with
silver and turquoises, and the skirt is
cut in tabs that allow founce of pale
blue chiffon to show itself. Still another
evening gown is of geranium pink silk, the
bodice draperies being wrought with sill
yer, pearls and coral. and finished by
bretelies OF pale green velvet. A pretty
blue dress has white stripes and broche
white flowers and the bodice is gracefully
arranged with blue tulle and white lace.
From Paris was all exquisite evening
dress of the richest creamy white peau de
sole. the skirt veiled with gauze. on which
lace flowers were laid. These flowers had
large, open centers, beautifully filled in
and embroidered with gold thread and
turquoises; the gauZe skirt was finished
with small founce of point d d'Angleterre,
and hung loosely over the rich silk under
skirt. The bodice was lovely, veiled with
this same gauze and lace flowers, and the
neck surrounded with large chrysanthe-
NUNS, worked with turquoises and gold
of various shades; sleeves to match, and
waistband of two folds of velvet, one lemon
color and the other turquoise.
The Queen presented the bride with
four dress lengths of Irish poplin in the
very beautiful new weaves, which are and
Will be all through next winter very
fashionable and equally expensive. Those
selected for the trousseau were of four diff
ferent shades-a handsome deep carnelian
red imperial poplin, fine ribbed black,
pale blue known as faience blue Fran
cais, and shaded black and silver thick
ribbed poplin. A few yards of corn
colored fancy Irish poplin were selected
by the bride herself for a bodice. It
has narrow lines and small black de-
sign, and is made with wide box pleat
in front with three buttons of fine cut Jet
on it. Over the shoulders is a flmiike
arrangement of lace, and around the
throat and waist are soft bands of black
satin. A black broche skirt is to be worn
with it. So, after all there are numer-
Gus indications that as yet the black
81 nd
been done away, but they are frasse and
the most fashionable dressmakers so
thoroughly disapprove of the combina-
ion, which is certainly disastrous for
many figures, especially for the short,
plump woman. to whom it imparts short
and dumpy appearance, if the skirt is
dark and the bodice light in color.
MARcELLA.