The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1896-01-26
THE TEA THAT CHEERS
FACTS ABOUT THE BEVERAGE AND
THE WAY 1T Is USED IN RUSSIA.
Prof. Boris Tomorsky. in Philadelphia

expert in the world. The grocers of Russia
not being experts sell tea only in sealed
packages and have nothing whatever to do
with its merits or dement's. Tea is a deli
cate article and in Russia 1t is in the hands
only Of those who have thoroughly studied
and mastered 1T. Russia may be said to be
the great-grandmother of tea drinking. She
consumes ninety pounds of tea to only ten
pounds Of coffee. Coffee is used only by for
eign born people. Russia was the first, and
up to date, the only country which, by
botanical training and long experience has
proven that no tea can be perfect in health
fulness unless the leaves are separated as
near as possible and assorted into different
grades. tea tree may produce from three
to nine different varieties of leaves. which,
If together, make poor tea Of rough flavor,
while, If assorted, each kind gives certain
quality. And so Russia has produced skillful
tea assorters.
1t was also Russia that first prohibited
the Importation of tea in lead-lined chests.
Chemical analysis has demonstrated that
tea absorbs the poisonous salts of the lead
lining. Russia. by devoting so much atten-
ton to her teas. has made them world
famous.
The average Russian drinks daily from
eight to twelve glasses of tea, and yet the
Russians are the healthiest people In the
world. Tea in Russia is associated with the
refinement and joys of the home life.
A contented Russian family around large
table with a rich tabecloth of our own linen,
with the steaming ssmovar Tor self-boileD
in the middle, and crystal glasses with glis-
tening porcelain saucers around. presents a
picture the homelike effect and charming
beauty of which must be seen to be fully
appreciated. In the fall and winter our even
ing teas last several hours, the time being
passed In playing. singing, reading, en-
broidery. pleasant conversation, etc., while
the half-cooled cup OF tea waits for each
guest and member of the happy family to
give new strength, liveliness and humor.
Russia owns immense tracts of land in the
best tea-growing districts and takes the
first crop only. This crop Is picked and cured
in the early season, wnen the most intelli-
gent natives are at leisure. The laborers are
divided into small groups and are under the
appointed especially for that purpose by our
government.
The division Of the laborers into small
groups is that the product of each group
may be inspected separately TO the end that
the tea may be kept clean and its strength
preserved And this supervision is exercised
with the exactness and rigor that character
ICES all the acts of our Russian government.
After the crop has been gathered and
packed in cases lined with moisture-proof
paper and covered with leather it is con-
veyed to Kiakhta by caravan.
Kiakhte is a small Siberian town in the
State Of Irkutsk, four hundred yards from
habitants are Chinese. Wholesale tea houses
are numerous and owned by Moscow tea
kings. In Kiakhta the tea is carefully
graded and assorted by trained assorters
Some of these assorters are paid from
5000 to 1900 rubles per year. They are ex-
pected never to drink any liquor nor to
10 In nrdpr tn IL
ate for the tasting OF tea leaves. After
being assorted the tea is packed in one-half
pound and pound packages, sealed and ex-
ported to all parts of European Russia and
other countries.
IT sPoILS EASILY.
The greatest care Is taken TO avoid the
tea becoming tainted in the process of as
sorting and packing. The rooms in which
the work is done are kept scrupulousiy
clean, and nothing that could impart the
tobacco in any form and are required to be
brought into the rooms. The assorters and
packers are strictly forbidden the use of
tobacco in any form and are required to be
clothed in clean white linen suits. When
you consider the Importance Of these pre-
cautions and all this care, you will really
comprehend why Russia excels the world
in the perfection of it's teas, and why the
Russian teas retain their strength; flavor
and delicious aroma. You Will also see
that the skill and knowledge required in
long course of training in the tea houses of
Kiakhta enables the Russian assorter to
produce with the same methods and care
tea of his native land in any other country
There can be no set rules as to the relative
amount OF tea and water, as tastes are
widely different, but few experiments will
teach you how much tea to given quantity
Of water best suits your taste. After hav-
ing determined this, always be particular
about measuring your tea, and the quantity
of water you use. But to prepare the Rus
sian Kiakhta tea follow the Russian style
and be convinced.
We never boil our tea like the English
do but steep or draw Ii in small Quanti-
ty of water, and then dilute 1t with hot
water, making 1t strong or weak, according
to taste.
To prepare rich cup of Kiakhta tea Of
fine flavor and aroma we Russians put one
and a half teaspoonfuls of the Kiakhta tea
in small, warm earthen teapot, pour over
il pint of water, which has been brought
to the boiling point, put over 1t a folded
cious steam (se little cared for in generaD.
for six to ten minutes. After putting sugar
in the cup we pour over IL a small quantity
of the strong tea and fill 1t up with hot
water; Use the tea when freshly made. but
should you be unable to do SO, pour the
clear tea off from the stepped leaves into
another warm dish, cover and keep warm
until used
When we have guests the so-called Gar
ina tea is frequently served. A smooth glass
water; the. strong tea is then added so care
fully that the red liquid remains on the sur
face of the white one-they do not mingle.
After admiring this beautiful sight a
slice Of lemon is added 1t is stirred and
is then ready for use Our iced teas with
sugar Gin the mouth) and lemon are I'M
surpassed. We also make the most de-
licious cold and hot drinks of our Kiakhta
tea, using liquors and wines for different
punches.
We start the day with a hot cup of tea.
usually putting in a thin slice of thin
skinned lemon, slightly squeezed. We sell
dom sweeten the tea, but take a lump of
sugar in the mouth and little by little
wash ii down with the tea This makes a
healthful and pleasant morning drink be-
ing far better than coffee.
1t sharpens the appetite for solid break
fast, strengthens the body and clears the
BRAIN At lunch we use sweet tea with or
without lemon. Very seldom we use cream
or milk in our tea.
THE POOR TEAS.
After the above sketch of the teas OF nv
native country, as a connoisseur / desire
to say that the manipulation of teas by ma
chinery is very deleterious to its delicate
aroma and flavor. Tea Is so very sensitive
to odors and impurities of the air that the
steam, dust oil. etc.. incident to the ma
chinery does seriously injure 1t.
1 feel impelled to say few words about
the tea you intelligent Americans are gen.
orally using. The statistics regarding hu-
man food show that the American people
in general consume the choicest and most
that they use are the poorest and cheap
est.
This is how they are prepared Late in
the season, after the best crop has been
cared for, a gang Of the lowest, dirtiest
and poorest paid natives Is employed 10
nj 10 leaves all he