The San Francisco call., 1896-03-08

only too often their hnery is limp and
soiled
Fortunately this class of girls shows a
decided tendency to diminish, for most of
them are coming to the conclusion that
there is nothing undigniled in honest
work and that the securing of a wealthy
husband is not the one end and object of a
true woman's existence. But mad no idea
of giving lecture so let US change the
subject and talk about shirtwalsts, which
will be worn as much as last summer,
proving an exception to the rule, that as
style becomes convenient it is no longer
fashionable, but remem Der, there are shirt
waists and shirtwaists. Thousands of
these ready-made ones are sold here dur
ing every month, and for the girl with
the regulation figure they are very
well. but few smart women purchase
them. The up-to-date matron and maiden
usually has hers made to order by one of
the best haberdashers in the City.
While walking up one of our principal
streets a few hours ago, l noticed in the
window of one of the SWEETEST mems storse
here very excellent shirtw aist; it was of
fine piece of goods of a light ecru shade,
through which ran narrow white lines
about an inch apart. The style of this
waist was indisputable, so | entered at
once and made inquiries, and as l know
you may want just such garment l will
tell you what | was informed. You can
have shirt made just like the model for
81 so il you furnish the material, but if
you do not it will cost you between 81 and
S5, according to the grade of material Sc
lected, and you can feel certain that you
will not have your waist duplicated, which
is a real satisfaction IN a small city. 1t
does seem good deal, perhaps, to give
S. for SO simple a garment, but l assure
you that you Will find it cheaper in the
end to have the correct thing, and scarcely
any ready-made waist ever fits properly
around the neck.
| presume, however, that special price
might be made when a dozen waists are
ordered, but under all circumstances do
not imagine that you can go to any fash
ionable summer resort and feel comfort
able in cheap, badly cut, ill-fitting shirt
waist. You will probably look, unless q
regular Venus, like a meal bag, and if
father or husband objects TO the outlay
tell him your shirtwaist must be as care
fully cut and made as one of his shirts,
for such is really the case.
In New York fancy shirtwaists vary in
price from SO cents to $50. The cotton
readymade shirt may be had in good
cotton and we'll sewn here at about the
same figure, but as vet | have not investi-
gated the high-priced new ones which
have doubtless already arrived. East,
shirts, made of plain-colored French cam
brio, are trimmed with fine edging and
raised dots, which match the shirt in
color. These waists are imported and
rank among the novelties. They cost
about $4 %. For an additional quarter
may be had in this same style fine French
ginEhams made upon the bias. These are
gay and pretty. Pwine-colored linen ones
with white cuffs and collars are GOOD, and
are worked in the same color. They are
more blouse-like in styles. Twine-colored
wash batistes are attractive, with collars
ana cuffs of very fine white muslin ed ged
with narrow lace; the front plait may also
be edged with lace, or the collar, cuffs and
front plait can all be covered with very
fine EN- mbroidered muslin, edged with lace.
Some of the expensive waists really do not
come under the head of shirtwaists,
nevertheless they are so classified,
although spoken of as bodices.
Our parasols are to change but little in
style this year. Those with pale or
white grounds over which are scattered
brilliant flowers in conventional and ar
tistic designs will be the favorites, and the
most chic have those delightful Louis XVI
stripes on white surface with tiny
garlands.
Tne ribbons this summer are marvels OF
beauty, for on evening frocks are to be
seen gold ribbons silver ones. and chine
ribbon will be enriched with sequins,
jewels and lace, and the simplest of gowns
COmpOSeu Oi OTBdDQy, ldWI, IHuSllu,
iaconet or batiste will be beautified with
exquisite ribbons.
Wells are always interesting topics in
San Francisco, where they are well nigh
indispensable, especially in the summer,
so it is well to know that plain black tulle,
as previously stated, is correct, and may
be finished with scroll in white-foss
silk around the edge, or with u tiny edging
of very narrow fine real lace. The ends are
tied in full bow upon the brim of the
hat at the back and allowed to follow their
sweet will instead of being tucked away
out of sight. l like to see the ends crossed
at the back and pinned in position with
small ornamental pin much better than
the bow, for after bow has been tied say
hall dozen times the veil Is spoiled.
The grace and beauty of the plain skirt
have laid such hold on the affections of
most women that the trimmed and
tiounced skirts, which are now especially
designed for evening wear, are not being
received with eDthusiasm. A delightful
white satin was lately worn; the corsage
ornamented with large revers. thickly en-
broidered by hand in pearls and silver
thread. These revers fell over the sleeves,
which were of the finest point de Brux-
elles. A large tablier of the same delicate
lace adorned the skirt, which was other
wise plain, much gored, very full at the
hem.
1iOui ali Odll uicSScs buc tTdlfl has Vd0-
ished. White brocade has recently been
used considerably in combination with
white satin, and the results are good. A
white brocade was admired which had a
wide perfectly plain skirt and large folds
of tulle on the bodice, EN- broidered with
pearls in pattern of marguerites.
Hand-painted gowns are growing in fa-
vor, and one of the very handsomest court
dresses worn at the last Dublin drawing
room was of green satin. A huge bunch OF
exquisitely painted maImaisons adorned
the left side of the skirt. They were won
derfully shaded, being the work of an ex-
cellent artist. The bodice was draped with
rare oriental embroidery, in which were
used pearls, emeralds and gold paillettes,
which looked as though held in place by
cluster of malmaisons. The sleeves of
green chiffon terminated in band of SINH
lar oriental embroidery. The train was of
rose -colored velvet lined with green and
draped with green chiffon. The mantle
worn with this creation was of pink velvet,
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