The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-06-01
ideas for dMonaem.

Special favor continues to be shown to
complete dresses of striped black and
white taffeta silks, says a Partisan CORE
spoilden tcf the Philadelphia Press" Such
costumes are made with a skirt very much
gored over the hips and very ample be-
hind, with a plain drawn bodice on the
cross to match, or the bodice may be the
popular little Louis XVI. coat, tightly
fitting behind with a full vest of ~s.aceor-
dion" pleated cream crepe, with a cas-
cade of lace. A number of pretty gowns
IN light wooden materials are worn. gray
or blue being the shades most generally
adopted. The loose bodices nave three
large fiat pleats fastened with jeweled
shamrocks. Others again are wearing old
rose serge with a small yoke or revers
OF white cloth thickly worked in gold
thread and colored tones, while the bot
tom of the skirt is narrowly turned up
to match.
Yellow. mauve and green, with an ex-
ceedingly violent and crude pink, were
the dominant notes of the color scales of
the painters of the last century. Modern
decadence is adopting them also, making
a backward step in taste instead of going
forward The large flat hats, with their
bread brims and towering aigrettes, are
following, or, perhaps. rather leading.
this essentially retrograde movement. The
toques are completely formed of flowers.
lilies of the valley, and ~violets, or roses
and iris being among the combinations
most generally seen: while the hats are
simply laden with the most varied bios
SONS. Some few mix ribbon bows in the
trimming, and jeweled arrows or silver
ornaments. are often thrust through
4hhca r,nrffa1IA ao--o- 1-l- rv.4l =,
hats large bows or ruffs are worn. They
are made of lace and chiffon, Indian mus
lin, or tulie point d'esprit. and are a very
graceful and becoming accessory to idemi-
toilettes.
Very much attention just now is paid
TO these demi-toiaettes. The materials
are inclined to stiffness, and alpaca or
canvas for warm days, and serge or
Cloth for colder weather. are in demand,
with a new and useful fabric known as
mohair serge to hold the balance be-
tween the two. Gowns in one or other of
these will be the almost uniform wear
for rne races. until at Chantilly we shall
bring out our attractive reserves which
up to the present have been kept for
matinees and wedding reception wear.
Here. for example, is a charming dress
in silver gray diagonal mefair. The
coat, which matches. has very broad
revers lined with white moire, and opens
over a waistcoat also of white MORE
with a jabot of old point-lace and but
rons OF turquoise. The hat is of burnt
straw, fantastically bent about in front.
and trimmed with masses of hyacinths
and roses, from which rises an immense
bow of glace ribbon. Another dress is
of Ottoman cord. something of the blue
black shade of the crows wing. The
full bodice is made with the three broad
p.eats / have described before. and the
folded sash, collar, and outstanding
epaulets are of a very soft green Lib
enty' satin. An enormous ruff of black
chiffon, in which are nestled pink roses.
harmon:zes well with the hat. This is
of pink straw, with ribbons oil a paler
shade, and very dark red roses with
their foliage for trimming. A full, but
short cape of black faille. with some
green satin friIls upon the shoulders,
completes this costume.
Another good dress is of black Otto
man cord, with the bodice much en-
hroidered in white, and opening with a
full front of clear black gulpure over
white sag. Both coat and skirt are lined
with striped black and white Pekin silk.
A picture hat all in black of Louis
XIV style, trimmed with bird of para
disc pllmes and a cluster of many-hued
carnations set under the brim behind,
is worn with the dress.
A striking costume is blue again. with
a skirt of navy alpaca, accompanied by
a Bolero Jacket of blue taffetas with
small floral sprigs. Under this is worn
a full vest of white crepe, with a coll
lar and ends of vaIenciennes lace and
a neckband and folded waistbelt of or
ange velvet. This last reappears on the
dark blue straw hat, which is further
trimmed with clusters of dark double
wall flowers. Yet another is of black
anvas, much elaborated by Scotch plaid
ribbons, in which dark red prevails. The
front of the bodice is of gaze de sole.
and IT has a long pleated fichu in black
to match, coming from beneath a deep
collar of lawn guipure. The hat is black,
with a wreath of cherries, berries and
flowers.
NUMBERS Oh drab covert coats, num-
bers of black capes, are worn. The one
belongs to walking and morning uses,
the other is appropriate for visiting and
carriage wear, and in general is of black
silk, lavishly enhanced in Importance
with tulle, chiffon and lace. The Jackets
are Of fine cloth, made perfectly plain
and with the tendency of the dress sleeve
to fit closely to the arn. below the much
reduced f~ullness now allowed upon the
shoulders, their own sleeves show a great
dirninution in amplitude, and in some in
stances, indeed, are beginning to approx
innate to the masculine shape. In some
what more elaborate little NANTES there
is a suggestion of Lou XVI. ideas. The
much frilled and trimmed shoulders are |
surmounted by a very high and stiff col
lar, which supports the ruff. Some dress
makers are making with the cape a
dainty waistcoat of embroidered satin.
This forms a complete bodice in itself,
and IS finished with basques cut shortly
away, rendering any other blouse unnec-
essary. Other capes of no less dressy
character are made of coarse tulle.
Never during its existence has India
been SO rich in jewelry as now. The
IEL -