The morning times., 1896-06-21
Batiste, Dimity, Lawn and Nain-
sock Ar. the Eavorite Fab
rics-Smartest Under
wear All Made Up in
Delicate Coiors

In lingerie, the most Conspicuous Oh WHICH
is a development of color in some CT the
underwear. 1t is curious, isn't it, how
fashion vcers about in her notion of tie
fitness of things.
Not So many moons ago, according to
the opinions which make or mar mode,
to wear any tinted undcrgarment-the pet
ticoat eXcepted-w to evidence de-
praviiy in taste if not in morals. All under
trappiDgs needed 10 be of the snowest
white and any elaborate lace trimming
was considered bad form. Then long, long
ago '.shirts abd pctticoats'' of coarse
nankceps in raw colors were worn by the
finest ladies in the land; and one historian
of Queen Elizabeth time chronicles, thatthe
favoritc sleeping sack or night gown"
of tic great danes of that day was plain
affair of red or yellow silk not always
''ovcr Clean"
The underwear of the present moment
has nothing TO fear at the hands of the
future historian. The best lingerie is
distinguished 10y good taste and ele-
gance without parallel in the annals of
fashion. And since Quantity, as well as
quality, is ono of the most stringent laws
of the hour. the charge of not being lover
clean will never be brought against it.
No mere description could do entire
Justice to all the delightful under rig
giug just now being shown in the shops
for summer use.
Fragile textiles are the ores mtst in
favor, baiistes and Indian dimties, and
Persian and India lawns. These are all of
weblike fineDess which ma tes them most
acceptable for hot weather wear, when
even the thinuest nainsook Is often burden
to the flesh.
Trimmings for them are delicate ValeD-
cieuDcs lace. in pure white, or yellow set
between rows Of fine cambric beading
tiIat initiates hcmstitChing.
Whatever the garment there are draw
strings of wide or narrow ribbon, in
white or delicate culors, with here and
there perky bows and rusettes as CO.
quettish heading to lace trimmed flounce.
The Indian diInities in plain oolurs, pink
apple green. canary-y yellow and pale blue,
are made up into sets of four pieces.
Tinted china silk and few of the deli
cately figured and striped appear in these
sets.
Then nightdress. petticoat, dra wers and
cteinise will all be trimmed with the
same lace and ribbon, the uniformity OF
color and decorations adding much TO the
effect and richness of the garments. In
pain lawp. the oolured sets are made
cheaper. of course. than the frazier dimi-
ties, but from a beauty point. at least,
they are also less desirable.
Silk. likewise. is less in favor than the
delicate co,tons. though from its dura-
biiity as well as coulness many buyers
select the china silk underwear.
White dotted muslin and Swiss in plain.
figured stripes and spotted weaves are
much used fer dressy petticoats, such as
accompany urgandie and evening gowns.
They are much be-flounced, one frill
over the Other ani the last one very deep,
with the lace edgings put on plain or finely
knife plated or else the flounces showing
the stout cerding so much in favor for silk
skirts. Those in the fine India and French
lawns have sometimes the deep top flounce
made of horizontal clusters of narrow hand
run tucks between lace entire e-deux. Tie
bottom of this may be left straight and
edged with a deep lace put on plain.
A gain this floInce may be shaped up into
points and finished with n full frill of lace;
shorter lace trimmed frills showing be-
tween the points and giving charming
furbelowed look.
Allpetticnats are ma lie to fit snug,y about
the hips and very wide at the bottom.
Commonly tiietop lows n yoke at the front
and sides. and casing at the back. through
which a ribbon is run. enables the wearer
to draw il in to desired limits.
a Swiss petticnat with the back breadths
covered entirely with corded tlounces is
one device for holding evening skirts out at
this point.
A tiny square called the Marguerite
neck is IL feature of many of the summer
night gowns. These are most becoming to
fine throafs, the round white columns the
poets speak Of. The square, however, is so
shallow that it shows little more than that
first pretty swell of the shoulders each side
of the throat. so that, unless the column
is unconmoniy fat. a Marguerite neck is a
comfortable privilege that may be widely
enjoyed.
Many of III. night dresses have round
or square yokes made separately. Other
yokes are simulated by tucking the garment
itself and inserting entre-deux of lace and
embroidery bet wccn. the whole often being
outlined with n ribbon run beading. or else
with tiny bias of the gown material,
fastened down with an elaborate herring
bOning.
Sleeves are either bishop shapes. three
quarter length, and finished with a lace
edged ruffle, or else are long gigots with
The cuff portion rather close fitting and
frequently made entirely of rows of tucks
and lace.
Some OF the inexpensive nainsook gowns
have puFfed or corded yokes of wtite-dotted
muslin. and n hand finish to the sleeves of
the same. that gives them quite an elegant
air.
Dra wers are all cut very wide and very
short Methods OF trimming tie bottoms,
though vary enormously. SO that in this line
at least. simplicity may be said to be the
fashion as much as elaboraf epess. An ex-
traordiaarily wide shape is called the bal
lcrino, and this is so flounced and ribbon
trimmed that it has quite the air of a short
divided skirt
SQnlc or The dra wers have a deep lace
flounce put on slantingly, shorter at the
outer than I he inner leg.
The bottoms OF another sort are cut in
the shape OF Il huge scallop, also shorter
at one point than the other. but whatever
the trimming below. the heading is COM
monty of some sort OF ribbon-run bead
Ing, with ends OF the ribbon escaping to tie
some where in a bow or rosettes
Corset covers of wash silk and fine lawns
are made in the bolero shape, which ties
gracefully In scarf ends at the bust. and
are trimmed simply all round with mar
row edge of lace.
There are also others in the I'D corset
body shape. With the bust trimmed as OF
yore, with tncks and embroidery; but there
Is every sign that the chernisc will in time
do away with this garment entirely. For
the chemise is back again, praise to the
fashion makers, Danticr. prettier, more
than ever before. this time
hoDorcd garment is seen in vast numbers
in the shons and at prices that run from 80
CENTS to $50.
There is no reason why all the world may
not take to cheIDises again. and il all
women only knew it. there is no article of
more feminine or becoming.
In make and material the new cbeniises |
are OF an exquisite fneness and show a |
tempting variety of design They are al |
most ankle length. and to obviate the need |
of short petticoat the bottoms of many |
VIII he friiicd and tucked skirt-fasl,ion.
i is at the top. howcyer that fashinn and