The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-17
LIVERPOOL TO GLASGOW
INTERESTING MOTIF OF TRAVEL
FLOW rBes-lssoR PAUL
A Region That is Under High
State of Observation-Disclosures OF
the Farm Hoases-Evidences OF
ContentE,ent.
NO the editor Of The Herald:

Exchange station in Liverpool my
luggage" as they term it in England,
was seized by railway porter in uni
form and promptly taken to the
baggage-car. They give you no
checks for your trunks, as they do
in America, and I fancied that there
might be danger of losing some of the
articles. But the officials saw to it
that l made no mistake. They took
me to the train, put me into the car,
and locked me, along with five others,
in small compartment of the car.
! The passenger-cars are much inferior
/ in appearance to those in America,
and somewhat resemble freight-cars;
but they run smoothly and swiftly, and
I there was no smoke or dust on the
whole trip. Each car is divided into
number of accommodating Sec
/ tions, each compartment having ca
pacity for about six persons. Except
/ for the locking in" feature-which,
/ however occaSioned no Inconvenience
I rather like this division into sections,
/ for / soon became acquainted with my
/ five fellow travellers and derived much
| information from them. Contrary to
the reputation of English people, these
were exceedingly courteous and un-
reserved in speech. One was typical
English farmer of so years, large, ro-
bust, good-natured and of thrifty APP
| pearance. Another was a Scotch ma
iron of 49, A third was an English
teacher in women'S training schoolS-a
I lady of %. The two others were pro-
fessional gymnasts-a young man of %
and his sister of 17-who were on their
way to Glasgow to give performances
on the flying trapeze. For five hours
my questions were cordially answered,
and 1 was pleasantly entertained by
these chance companions with in
structive remarks upon nearly every
thing that attracted my attention dur
ing the journey Of about 220 miles from
/ Liverpool to Glasgow
Viewed from the window of a
smooth-riding railway car, the scenery
of English country places is exceeding
ly attractive. There is q sort of SOM
bre loneliness about this scenery on a
clear day in September. At the first
sight of the open country, as we sped
from the smoky, noisy foggy limits
of the great city of Liverpool, uttered
an exclamation of surprise and Won
/ der. Level fields newly plowed or crop
/ bearing, intersected by dark green
/ hedges (fences), like an irregular
/ checker board, into rectangles of va
respect pleasing to contemplate, not to
say beautiful. The level fields are
crossed here and there by clean, hard,
! convex turnpike roads, which are lined
with a hedge on each side; and with
4 occasional winding canals, on which
ply small, good-looking steamboats,
bearing portions of the freight of the
immense inland traffic. The turnpike
roads go above both the canals and
railroads, over bridges of arched ma
sorry, beneath which the train dashes
on with uniform speed, and above
which the heavy English carts and
wagons drawn by one or more huge
horses, slowly pass, carrying the pro-
duce of the English farms into the
great emporiums of trade These
stone arch bridges are picturesque and
break the monotony of the level land
scape.
1t was day of sunshine-a day
somewhat unusual at this season in
England, and unusual, too, for the
clearness of the atmosphere. Clouds
piled up in black and white banks on
the horizon: and it showered twice,
clearing away each time, before we
reached Glasgow. The air was cool
and there was no dust. The meadows
were green. the grain fields brown, the
plowed land black, the growing crops
(turnips, cabbages, etc., green. Groves
of oak, ash, elm and walnut were
passed at intervals and stood in state
" gloom, dark-green and black. Sheer
We're numerous in the fields chiefly oil
the long, Straightforward variety, an6
there many horses and cattle also
grazed. Thev were all fat and con-
tented-looking. Many of the animals
were lying down. Ducks, geese ant
chickens were numerous about the
fields and near the houses. The house:
are neat, but ancient in appearance
with curious tile chimneys placed or
top of the ordinary ones. Many of the
houses are built of dressed stone; 9th
ers, especially as we proceeded north
2 ward, of less expensive materials, anS
whitewashed. None were shabby o
dirty in appearance, but all had an al
l of neatness about them. The stack
l of hay and grain were small, cOnica
2 structures, often raised on short post
and always covered with a sort o
woven straw mating to protect. then
from the rain. Large pools of surfac
: water, like lakes, from recent rains
$ were to be seen in places on the grass
E meadows; otherwise every foot of tn
4 land appeared to be under close cul
e tivation. Lucern is not raised here.
f AS we passed into a more billy country
S | observed sheep grazing on the hlghes
o hills, as well as in the meadows below
: Hills and meadows. close-cropped by tn
animals, resernbled Millions dry, smooth
y shaver green" with hedge-row elm
T about. For awhile we spin along besid
t a clear stream descending from tn
G mountains, with patches of pine, fir an
: iarch, suggesting our Rocky nountai
n scenery, and suggesting Millions lines:
Meadows trim with DAISIES pied,
{ Shallow brooks and rivers wide
Il As we proceeded northward, the mount
e aims We're partly covered with dull purpi
: patches-the heather in bloon-and wit
yellowish-br spots of bracken foiiag
while some of the shrubs were turrin
red with the early froStS
: Inquiry among my companions eliclte
u from them the statement that IN the
e opinion the country we had passe
n through is a good average type of Ent
n lish scenery in general, and this fact II
n duced me to make these notes of it, b.
r. lieving that they might be of interest
= our young people at home.
q Thus far 1 am favorably impressed vii
e what | have seen of the "foggy island
IS and its people. There was look
j. peace, quietness and tranquility on ever
ar side There was also an appearance
a solidity in the buildings, roads ar
~ bridges. and of permanence in the house
y Everything looked duller than at hon
a, yet also more durable Human life a
N pears less active, but also less resti'
than with us. Every action seems slow
IT but also steadier. What may lie benea
=, this pleasant exterior am. of course,
- learn But l already find in the COUNT
20 of my ancestors much that interests, j
III structs and impresses me on every nan
re Even the lack of picturesque variety
Ig the scenery thus far visited find pa
!. TALLY compensated for in the quiet
"a loneliness of fields made beautiful by t
~ patient toll of many generations and nc
< richly laden with the bounties of natur
Dr. And speeding over the quiet fields, whe
De all things suggested peace and every Il
ing thing breathed in apparent confer
te ment, I was already beginning TO cnan
:, various Uniformed opinions and ancie
y prejud:ces. which l had derived at Sc
Il ond hand from superficial Observers al
lie thoughtless travellers, when the wins
10 anncuncad that we had arrived at Ola