New-York tribune., 1896-01-19

don IN the region Of Piccadilly and Regen'-s'-l
really have very little TO say.
However it is nice to these workmanike gar
ments again for English jacket suits are as much
superior 10 Paris ones French evening coniec-
tions and millinery to London products
The fayorite Jacket shape with the English is as
It has been for some years a double-breasted REFER
fitting the figure perfectly In the back ioHo"ihS !"
with graceful under the arms ana ia.hhs III
front in one straight line. The Paris houses snow
this same model. but they are rarely successiui
with II. principally because they have 80 niue eN-
perlence with it, The Frenchwoman viii accept
nothing that is not bien tae. and can see neither
beauty grace in straight, loose front; and It's
smartness comfort and convenience she does not APP
preciate. The Englishwoman. on the other hand
never feels as well dressed In anything else and the
consequence is that the secondcass places turn
out very creditable garments al a very moderate
price.
II Is the dull season now. they all say but Red
fern Is very busy In making gowns for the south OF
France where English people. following the example
Of their Sovereign Lady, escape the black and yellow
fogs hanging over England. These suits are the
very earliest spring models for they are made Tor
warmer climate and one model az least that Red
fern shows has some decidedly new features
1t is Of light tan broadcloh, with skirt beautiuy
stitched but plain and decidedly moderate In size
indeed us wearer should have difficulty in hold
ing il up comfortably with one hand. whicn Is GER
tainy something one cannot do win the present
Goth skirts. The whole costume Is lined win "hi'e
silk There Is a hieh wastcOat OF white coth, Dut-
tonng TO the throat with row OF mess buttons anu
daIntjly trimmed with gold braid. The jacket 10
wonderfully convenient. AS II first appeared on the
model II seemed TO be the ordinary. short jacket
turning away with rolling, white-faced reVers ana
showing a rather deep. fiat collar But 10 make 'ne
suit warmer the revers may be turned over anu III"
jacket closed by six cloth straps which button over
tie opening 1t appears then simply closed single
bre, tack wi q Il
gold-cmbrodered choker under 1t. When the jacket
is thrown open the revers roll bacK again Inc
etraps are cleverly hidden. There are three on each
side and the loose ends fall down and fasten on 10
the buttons below under the revers Inc large put-
tons used are OF smoked pearl
The military waistcoat described in fhs costume Is
very fashionable now. 1t is much Ike the officers
wastcoats of white cloth. The mess buttons are
simply a string OF small. round gold buttons set
very close together. and one row outlines the open
ing OF the garment. They are not used to close the
Carmen for there is an invisible line of hooks and
eyes beneath.
The SKIRTS Of this jacket cut with few godets
and the sleeves have the funess disposed in box
pleat falling well away from the shoulders. There
are extreme sleeves seen on tailor gowns
and no sffening Is ever used favorite sleeve Is
the bishop. The fulness is arranged In straight
folds and gathered. or rather pleated into mar
cuff.
Another charming model at the same place Is OF
ecru covert cloth The Jacket opens In front. but
has no reyers. and is edged with sable. Evey seam
in the skirt Jacket and Is strapped and beau
,fuy stitched The wastcoat is OF sable, with two
heads under the chin. The choker is also of the fur
with white silk scarf passing under it and tying
in q SQUARE bow under the heads There Is a fur
collar to the Jacket
Most of the collars jackets now are fiat and
eouare SHAPED, or If not square. very deep, ana
really suggesting the sailor collar. a smart little
double breasted REFER Of dark blue cloth has col
lar Of white cloth in this shape which forms wide
roy.rs win the point the side that laps over
cunning down. The collar and revers are braided
u,,h black end the large buttons are Of white
pearls. ,.x r. +,
| a.,a in ,he back to the figure. with straight.
douh,eh-eas,ed box-front. fastened with two rows
~ aorr buttons Each armhoe Is covered by a
orv large full cape which answers for the sleeve.
~. hoIe garment is lined with brown rabbit. a fur
oh rsed now for such purposes. 1t Is almost as
'h In color as sable and OF course not nearly as
onsive However II should not be confounded In
| nrIce with the white rabbit fur
o. err is using a great deal Of white cloth ior
.,r,rone and noted pretty jacket suit OF Drown
-, ,,,,aad The collar and revers are OF plain
ax hrown cloth, edged with stitched strap Of Of
oain :" neat suit Of dark green covert suii'hS -
cut basque shaped WIN aver showing three-cor-
lront Uace Of the plaid about loot ueep Hsai '"e
hereu Prbe who.e Is finely stitched anu N iau., a
prominen; feature OF az a n@o ~
pa,,s ~ exquisite stitching ..,or,ah,o ,,ran
rows Oh some interesting and comiortapie ~Iaps
lno.e travelling cloak is OF y I1nsn III I'D
Scotch tweed lad a. IN Puft Pbstoned belt The garment
about the We VIZ and smart when buttoned ana there