The morning times., 1896-11-22
New Fabrics Used for Elaborate
Dancing Costumes-Sugges-
tions for Evening Bodices
and COIors that Conn
bine at Night.

| Everything Is Trimmed with fur this
season, ana however delicate the color or
| materials OF an evening gown il il Sr.
| quentiy emphasized by "a note. .,f f,Ia,l-
! The ways and means OF ernplnyinp, inns
| dashing note are manifold low bodice
| In pale pink, blue. green, or yellow nous
| seline may have tiny Jacket fronts Of black
satin Oyerlaid with tnIck white lace
| pf ttt dissn Oi -i-cN las. ;iI.car inIv
| in a flight of slender swallows across one
shoulderOf another Tow frocs; while ano,her
In white or Some rich flower tint may bay,.
the slender waist girdied up as high as the
law allows, with a crus h belt OF black satin
or velvet.
Tie iurs are used in narrow edges on
Doth bodices and skirts, and may even
appear ON tulles and tInseled gauZes
But to return TO economies and the
aiEround dinner frOck which must serve
other functions and occasions as well
10 ne really practical 1T must begin with
| a b!ick skirt, but 1T can have as many AS
lree distinct colOred waists, one Of velvet
| II the skirt is of siIk-One OF silk and one
OF some gauzy material, tulle, chiffon or
| silk muslin
some OF the snartest OF the new black
| skirts are made Of ziberIine canvas over
| c0iored silk Innings, which show prettiIv
| through the Heshes- With these a silk
| or chiffon bodice is in keeping- hut ~
| course either must match the SILK skirt
| lining in color.
| An excellent quality of the zibeIine
| canvas. 80 inches wide, can he had at
| 81 yard, and with one OF the new bell
| models Ouly TWO yards and a half Of this
| will he needed Tor a skirt For Innings
| there arc charming taffeta silks in pale
| cOI"rs AT 0o cents a yard; quantity neeyist
| Tor boil skirt and medium height figure.
| eebt yards IN 22-Incb width. II silk Is
| preferred for the black skirt faiHe raiu
| de sole and Inpire, which is even more n sh-
\ 81 Z Ns O. = a..T
In very effective grades from SS cents
| 10 Sl.25 yard.
| These are all about % inches wide and
in a bell model, according TO fisure, from
| 10 10 yards are required for a smart
| jupe.
lie bodice may have the neck cut round
| or slightly square. Sleeves must be
| small Il tiny gathered puff OF the SAM.
| material. or lace, or still smaller affairs
SIMULATED by huEching the neck trimmings
| At the shoulders
| Long sleeves with a low neck is on.
! OF The latest French fads for velvet even
| ing todices. The smart PariSieunes arr.
| famous for their bad arms, so the long
| sleeve FASHION was originated TO hide this
defect. while giving the neck-which is
| usually handsome-a chance 10 be seen
For the rest the new evening boflice
may nave baSqueS OF not though tbOs4.
| finished at the waist with a hish. folded
| belt are most in favor
WITH tins Il snort jacket effect is the
thing alone a bolerO look of anv sort
oeihS desirable. and giving a jaunty youth
fulness to the figure
For made over materials it is also an
especially economical fashion as several
sorts may be used
y Zlbsllne canvas skirt and pretty chiffon
bo'iice Illustrated ON this page, is the first
economical suggestion
A pretty yandIneNpenSiyee evening dress for
m no frSr
sign with l lie accOrds on plated skirt Here
the material used Is pale green surah silk
and white guipure lace. but the same Of
feet may be gained with less expensive
inateriaiS anu even prove more suitable to
Il u"ihol>'he. ANY sort OF thin lIine hs:resp
wool, crepe. or cashmere would reproduce
tins little toilette delightfully."-. indeed If it
We're made IN France il would be in wool
French mothers dressing their young daugh-
ters with correct simplicity. Pine clothes
Ior the French glrl come only with mar
riage vows.
For trimming, narrow black velvet in
prettieSt Tor silk, and satin ribbon for
wool. Several rows may be placed at
the bottom OF the skirt, as illustrated
ana one or more outline the edge Of the
Jacket which is same as skirt, and tucked
narrowly all over down to within four
Inches Of the bottom. where 1t hangs loose,
with frili effect.
IL the gown is of wool, a Killed silk
blouse, the same color, may be worn un-
derneath. black velvet girtile and crush
collar finishing neck and waist.
In this case the close sleeves must be
also of the silk, with qullings of wool;
but il the gown is silk the sleeves will
he very effective if made OF the same
lace as the under bodice.
Made AZ home, a blue. white. pink or
yellow delaine, or barege frock, made
after this model, and with velvet or rib
min and sill
cost as much as SIS.
Where the Costume is to he of silk,
| much trouble may be saved by buying the
| skirt ready made. At several Of the large
| fr0IiWay shops killed skirts of surah,
| IN black. white and few of the delicate
\ culorS, can lie had made up. 10 putting en-
| a hand. for SO. Material for the bodice
Is easily matched, and in adjusting the
| skirt it is wise to drape it over a gored
petticuat. attaching the two TO the same
belt, thus assuring good hang.
| very elaborate dinner gown, indeed,
| may be copied for Il young NATION from the
| design with the striped skirt
| For this liDerty velvetecn and good
| quality Of taffeta silk would lie suitable,
| and not too extravagant materials. Say
| the cClurs Uf the skirt are to be dahlil 5nd
| white. purple and white, or any other color;
| the velvet of the bodice must match in
| tint. hut the feathers of the shoulder knot
| are haHdsOmcst in black, and black satin
under the suipure cmpieccments will give
| further tone.
As To the prices of materials a very
| good quality of the .velvcteen may be had
| i'll the purple and dahlia coIors for SO cents
| a yard This has Il genuine velvet bloom
| which. however, it is sorrowful to relate
| disappears entirely in the cheap, black
varieties.
For this reason. one should only in
| dnlge in oolored velveteens, and choose
| them carefully at that, for even at the
| same price some tints seem to produce 4
| better texture than oi hers
| Among the Louis XVI. designs of the
| evening taffetas. which include many
| beautiful effects in stripes. the skirt may
| be found.
| 1t may cost no more than 9S cents the
| yard, though a silk at $50 would be a
| better investment. and in cutting the skirt
| to make tnc handsome effect UI tne
! stripes.
Here a word about skirts. One OF the
most graceful and becoming of the new
| evening models is slightly trained at
the back and hangs long and soft about
| the feet all around, demonstrated by
| the striped silk and Zibeline designs. A
little more material is needed for this
than for the shorter bell affairs, but the
| improvement in the wearer's looks mort
| than balances the extra expense. Unless
| exceptionally graceful. nothing.i is more
| trying than a Short stiff skirt; they max,
comic pen wipers of little women.