davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

time lowered grenadines and gauze will be
the leading fabrics for elaborate gowns. Brown
canvas over green silk and black over petunia
red make very stylish gowns. but OF course the
silk must be vivid in color to get a good effect,
unless the dress Is made in some way to display
the silk In the outside. For example. one fancy
is to show the silk in a narrow band at each
seam in the skirt, and, in combination with the
material in the waist, lowered silks are some
times used, and one gown OF tan canvas has a
yoke. and the upper halt OF the sleeve pun OF
Powered silk. A narrow applique OF yellow
lace covers the seam and finishes the edge of
the yoke. Round or oval ivory buttons are an
effective trimming on gray or tan canvas.
Foulard silks have come around into style again
because OF their glossy surface, no doubt. as
everything this season Is TO be stiff and shiny
rather than soft and ~clinRing. Old-fashioned
glace silks similar TO those worn thirty years
ago. and brocaied poult do sole are both very
popular with ~tafretas, striped flannel, checked.
and chameleon, OF every degree Of stiffness
following in their train. Black brocades, plain
sAtins. and figured black tatfetas arc much used
for tho early spring gowns, and the last are espe-
cially serviceable for really hard wear. hut
these dresses are all made bright with cream
white satin and lace, or some color In the waist.
green being very effective. This Is also the
case with dark gowns Of wool material.
Ino coat OOdlce Is the prevailing style, ana In
some instances It Is cut quite long. but In nearly
every case the basque effect Is there, even
though II commences on the hips and forms
rufie across the back only. Fancy vests OF
lowered silk. satin. or brocade in light colors.
and the elaborate collar bands which are such
. feature of tho new gowns, make the plaluest
coat waist very dressy. Vests OF accordion
plated chiffon and net with lace edgings are
quito as popular AS ever, but the collar aud belt
are the points which receive most atten-
tion Just at present. Collars are cut higher
In tho back than they were formerly, aud
besides the ribbon band and bow, there
u . ruche OF plated silk, chiffon looOs OF blacE
velvet ribbon or lace set In the edge. Striking
contrasts OF color are another feature OF the new
collar, and bright green with blue Is one OF the
fAyOTite combinations Belts are treated Ia tho
same manner as regards color, and they are of
all widths from the inch band TO a folded
pointed girdle OF some considerable width, dec
GRATED back and front with fancy buttons and
trimmed on the edge with applique lace or rows
OF narrow ribbon.
FiEst Am4HEithe coat models, which are equal
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

points, falling over the hand. Very use
full mohsir dresses are made by the dress
maker, with a round waist fulled slightly at
tho belt both back aud front-a narrow leather
orgold belt being very pretty and cut to turn
back in wide reyers in front. The reyeTs may
be covered with MORO poplin In some contrast
ing shades, heavy cream lace, or silk TO match.
IL the gown Is for ordinary wear, chemisetto
vests and collar bands OF different contrasting
colors may be worn, making a nice variety with
one simple gown, Brown mohair trimmed with
bands of white silk embroidered with dull blue
and gold, and blue and gold enamel buttons and
belt buckle, IL very effective and unusual.
Despite all tho rumors TO the contrary, silk
waists and odd waists OF all sorts seem 10 hold
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

" suitable for silk or wool goods, IL one Of tan
cloth. with wide collar. tabs. and square rsyers
Of pstunia velvet, braided with gold and tan.
Tho full vest Of soft cream white satin II
shirred in three little ruches across the bust.
The skirt which accompanies this Is also OF tan
cloth, with a band of petunia velvet and braid
ing at the bottom. A second coat Is pretty for
light silk and evening wear, with dark silk
skirts. Mauve with a cream-white vest and
collar-shaped rovers 10 a charming combina-
tion, with white feather trimming on the edge
and a jabot Of lace at the neck. A stylish effect
is gained in the third model. which is carried
out in blue chameleon silk. by revers and vest
OF black silk, embroidered In soft shades Of rose
mauve, and green. These drossy coat waists are
sometimes made with shorter sleeves, which
reach just below tho elbow. and are finished
with n frill of lace. Another coat has very
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29
o CROSS BUSS.
How 10 Make the EnEIishmnn's Good
Friday Rolls.

In England tho morning of Good Friday IL
ushercd in with the cry of " Hot Cross Buns!''
Ivy the street bun vender, and these buns are
found upon almost every break fast table in tho
northern counties. There is II superstition that
If hot cross buns are eaten on this day they will
preserve ono from disaster during the year.
They nre said to keep for twelve months with
ont turning mouldy, and some persons hang
them in their homes rs charms against evil.
The following lines are found in Poor Robins
Almanac for 1888:
Cool Friday comes this month. the old woman runs
with one or two a penny hot cross buns.
Whose virtue IL, II you hclIave what's said.
1hcyii not grow mouldy like the common bread.
In several countries n small loaf OF bread 10
baked annually on the morning of Good Friday,
and then put by until the next anniversary.
This bread is not intended to be eaten, but to
be used as u medicine. 1t IL grated into water
before being given to the patient. This medi-
cine ia believed to be good for many disorders.
TO make the English hot cross buns. sift into
large bowl one quart OF flour. half n cup Of
sugar, and halfa teaspoonful of salt; dissolve
"nettGnrtn OF "a Glp or 9utter IN = generous mar
ents. with ~the:yolks OF two beaten eggs: add
half n yeast cake dissolved in u little water, half
Il nutmeg grated. and the whites of the two
very soft dough; cover the bowl with
and let il rise over night, In the morning take
pieces Of the dough, the size OF an egg. and, with
inch in thickness. Place them on a buttered
tin, leaving "A little space between. Cover the
tins and set in n warm place for the buns to
rise; they should be double their original size.
With "A sharp knife cut II cross In the centre of
each ban. l3akethem in II moderate oven about
nalf an hour. When the buns are baked brush
the top with II syrup made OF suga" and water.
Another mode OF making hot cross buns is to
mix one and one-half pints Of sweet milk and
one yeas cake, dissolved in half IA cup of tepid
water, with flour enough 10 make n thick batter.
Set this mixture i'll "A warm place and let 1t rise
over night. IN the morning ada one cup OF
sugar. half n cup of melted butter, one salt
spoonful OF salt. halt a nutmeg grated. and Just
enough flour to make a batter that can be han
died: knend well, and let the dough rise four or
five hours. Roll II out TO thrce-uuarters of an
inch thick and cut into round cakes. Lay them
in rows on a buttered biscuit pan. and when the
buns have stood IN the pans half an hour. make
Il cross with a knife upon the top Of each one.
Place the pans in II moderate oven and bake the
buns II light brown. Beat the white of an egg
stiff and add 10 the egg n little powdered sugar
and lightly cover the tops Of the buns when they
are taken from the oven.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

bands In the "hOulder, and belt are 81 let So
quined trimming, the vest and frills OF Hack
chiffon, and the bands down either side OF tho
front OF turquoise blue velvet. Another ara
more simple gown ~ Loire cloth is trimmed
with bands OF white satin edged with jet, and
cream lace over the shoulders and drApcd
across the front, fastened on either sido Win
brass buckles, The collar IS of lace with lUce
loops at either side. Brown canvas forms tho
next dress, cream satin the vest, and guipUre
lacs over white the collar, Milliners' folds Of
brown silk trim tho skirt. Another model,
easily copied. Is carried out In green lowered
silk. The bodice is simply fulled into a black
velvet belt, The vest is Of pale blue silk, the
frlll on either side Of lace, and the blue collar
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

black tafreta silk. Tho collar is Of black velvet.
high in the back. and has "a ruche of plated silk
with white brocadc, and tho revers are covered
with jet embroidery. The fun front OF silk
ends in tabs OF Jet and fringe.
Chino silks enter into tho construction Of
fancy capes quite n little. and one novelty in
dark shades Of purple and pink has n deep irill
OF black glac6 below tho little cape OF lowered
silk. and a ruche OF silk edged chiffon finishes
both edges. Black satin sash ribbons arranged
down the back and fastened with fancy buttons
outline the figure very %prettily.
Cape NANTES which are half fitted In the back
and loose in front have cane sleeves I'm fan
shape and made OF black silk covered with jet
ted net. They are very elegant. Very pretty
models of black satin are covered with BLACK
lace net, relieved oy applique figures of cream
lace; ana cream lace designs applied directly to
the satin. ut Intervals all over the cape, and out
lined with jet, are almost a. effective.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

An excellent remedy for a cough is made By
slicing two lemons thin and adding to them ten
cents worth of whole iaxseed. ten cents worth
of licor!C" root. one GIL Of water. and n little
sugar. Boil until quite thick and strain.
Ink may be taken out Of paper in the follow
ing way if the stain is not too old: Take a tcs-
spoonful OF chlorinated lime and pour over 1t
just enough water to cover 1t. Take a piece of old
linen ard mO!sten il with this mixture, and do
not rub, bur pat the stain, and il will slowly
disappear. lf one application does not remove
the stain let the paper dry and then apply again.
for Il month tho wart will entirely disappear.
In many cases il will not require 50 long u time.
~ liece OF camphor gum is placed in tho
drawer where are kept dress waists that are
trimmed with steel it will prevent the steel
from furnishing.
NORWOOD boiled In vinegar and applied az
hot as can be borne on n sprain or bruise. Is an
invaluable remedy. The affected member should
after"ard be rolled in fiannelst to retain the heat
4 small piece Of candle may be made to burn
all night By putting finely powdered salt on 10
small even light may be kept in this way.
1t is said that IL parsley is eaten with onions
or a salad containing. onions the odor OF the
onion will not affect the breath. The sprigs OF
parsley should be eaten as you would celery.
To stain wood TO look like ebony. take q solu-
tion Of ~sulphute of iron and wash the wood over
twice. When the wood becomes dry apply two
or hrce coats Of n strong detection of logwoDd,
Wipe the wood dry and polish with a flannel
wet In linseed oil.
To set the color and prevent delicate colored
cambrics and dimities from fading when
washed. dissolve five cents worth of sugar Of
lead in a pail of cold water and soak the gar.
ment in II two hours: then rinse and wash.
When baking cake, on removing 1t from the
oven place tho tin containing the cake on .
readily he taken from the tin without sticking.
Glover tea is excellent for purifying the blood,
clearing the com pleXion. and removing pimplea.
Dried clover may be Used for the tea.
DO not wash oilcloths or linoleum In hot SOAP
suds. Wash them with tepid water and wipe
with a cloth dampened In equal parts OF cold
milk and water.
salt added to new milk will curdle II; there
fore, in preparing p%Orridge. Custards. or RravieA.
do not add the suit until the last thing.
To prevent a bruise from discoloring apply
Immediately hot water, or, II that is not az
hand, moisten some dry starch with cold water
and cover the bruised place,
In filling cracks In plaster mix plaster of Paris
with vinegar instead Of water. II will be like
mass OF putty. Push 1t into the cracks and
smooth of with an old case knife. The plaster
Will not become hard for half an hour ifmixed
to pso 1t,
To remove the finger marks from vanished
furniture rub them with "a cloth dampened with
sweet oil, To remove them from oiled furni-
ture use Kerosene oil,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29
THE SUBJECT OF DRESS.
Easter Costumes the Topic
with Women at Present.
COAT BODICES IN FAVOR.
The Fashionable Materials OF the
Season for Dressy Gowns.

silks nt the Head or the List, with An
Transparent Fabrics in Favor Also -
Csnva. in Great Variety Very Popular
and Made Up .. Many S~tyio.-Fouinrd
Siikr In style Again Notifications OF
the Coat B~odice-CoHt Models Suitable
for silk or Wool G~oods-veivet Coats TO
ne Much worn-Cses or Mohair and
Aipacn SILK Waists and Odd Waists OF
All Sorts Holding Their Own-Tho New
skirts. Not Materially Changed In Cut.
The subject Of dress assumes fresh iinpUr-
tance as tho final days OF the I.enten season
come around, and What shall u woman wear
when the days of penitence are over ? Is the alb
sorbing question beside which all the earlier
resolutions of self-denial become n foggy uncer-
tainty. Fashion seems TO put forth every effort
At this particular season TO entice all woman
kind into her net, and fascinating combinations
of color and materials OF every conceivable kind
arc displayed In the most tempting manner.
Rut the conventional new gowns for Easter fes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

pointed rcvers. braided around the edge on a
narrow band OF cloth in n pale shade OF the
same color, which Is gray, and the vest is OF
green silk with lace bow and jabOt at the neck.
A Louis WI. coat OF black satin IL cut in one
with the basque, which has the usual flutes mt
the back allowed at the seams. II Is lined with
white, and the vest Of white satin Is braided
with gold and silver and fastened at one side.
The under rever is of black velvet, the upper
one of white satin, and the effect Is plain but
very striking.
Velvet coats will be much WORN on the street
as soon as 1t Is warm enough to discard outside
wraps. and one dressy model in dark green has
wide shawl.like revers which form a full cape
over the sleeves, ending in the armhole at the
back, and covered with wide cream lace. The
belt OF black satin ends in three loops at either
side. and the vest Of cream white silk has the
usual frill of lace, and bands OF black satin
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

tivities must have some consideration, so
women can easily crafty their vanity without
much of a struggle with their conscience.
Silks of every kind, except India and Surah.
head the list of fashionable materials for dressy
gowns. and mohair. alpaca. canvas. and grena-
dimes Of silk or wool, or both mixed. are leading
favorites in dress goods. In fact all transparent
fabrics are desirable In style for the coming sea-
son. and they are made up over black, white, or
colored silks. Wool canvas comes in varying
degrees of thickness, both loosely and coarsely
woven. and n finer quality is sometimes called
etamine. Other kinds are still softer, and
any of the grades. in shades OF tan or
beige, are sure to be good style; but
not all of them wear well, as the
threads sometimes pull out. Novelties in can
vas have silk flowers on the surface, and are
broken into large plaids By colored silk stripes
on q beige or gray ground. Grenadines will be
much worn this season. and those with lowered
stripes on a black ground, alternated with black
satin, are especially effective made up over
black silk. The tendency to light, transparent
materials serves to extend the usefulness of
gauze and chiffon, and the latest novelties In
these are patterned all over in Persian or flow
cred designs in soft colors. There is a long
series Of thin fabrics between canvas and gauze,
and any Of these open-meshed weaves made
over colored silk has a changeable effect
which Is very pretty, and decidedly O
feature Of the new in fashions. Old
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29
a Tiny Silver Novelty.

For years American women havo been taking
lessons in holding up their skirts from the
ground, but they have not succeeded in doing
this gracefully. Watch any woman on Broad
way on u wet, sloppy day; with one haud she
grabs the goods in the back into a bunch, pulls
the folds tight, and makes a scant limo at the
tops OF her boots, while the fulness drops In
front. Nothing could he more unbecominV.
Tho Partisan woman is wiser. She has a pocket
for her purse, 90 with each hand she gathers a
few loose folds, one hand on the right side and
the other toward the back ON the left, raising
the whole skirt slightly from the wet.
There Is now "a device in the shape Of a silver
clasp about nu inch In size. which securely
gathers the folds VI the skirt, and Is held by the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

ont very thin, and buttered and spread With
almonds, walnuts, or pecan nut meats pounded
TO a paste with n little salt.
IL may well be said of sand witches that their
name ia legion.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

straps OF cloth button over, this and the mock Is
deliberately RULED in truly Partisan style.
Black satin capes trimmed down from the neck
in points and finished with a full ruche OF black
chiffon. which has boa-like ends. are very good
style and easily made by those who are not ex-
pert in the art. Old-fashioned grebe is revived
for cape collars, and, In short, n little bit Of
everything seems to be admissible In some of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

fashioned appearance, which is very attractive.
Short, round capes OF black or colOred satin are
covered with closely plated black chiffon and
trimmed with bows and Tuches of gauge ribbon.
A very novel coat OF blaCk satin, illustrated,
has tightly fitting sides cut in ZOuaNo shape and
covered with medallion insertions ~ pale green
mirOir velvet and guipuro decorated with jet.
The sleeves OF satin are covered with nnely
plated black net, over which fall loops OF. wide
black satin ribbon. The vest Is OF finely plated
net with frills of lace.
A cape OF green MORE. brocaded with brown
and black shadowy DESIGNS, las applique
hcells lace embroidered with beads In the same
colOrs and set on In points, and two long ends
Of black velvet ribbon hang down the back.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

hand with an invisible loop of silver chain. u
Is secure, vet lOOsened in a'moment by one move
inent of the fingers. Its q pretty Easter gift.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

II a piece OF camphor gum is placed in the
drawer where are kept dress waists that are
trimmed with steel it will prevent the steel
from furnishing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

NORWOOD boiled in vinegar and applied az
hot as can be borne on a sprain or bruise. Is an
invaluable remedy. The affected member should
afterward be rolled in fiannels to retain the heat.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

White tulle tied In IA large bow in front Is ono
OF the popular decorations for the neck. and
among the Lew collar bands arranged to wear
with different dresses is one OF white satin rib
bon, with a scalloped frill OF 6cru embroidery
satin ribbon.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

II castor oil Is applied to n wart once a day
for n month tho wart will entirely disappear.
In many cases il will not require SO long u time.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

and whether you like it or not IL is the proper
thing to wear. Time will doubtless modify and
improve 1t in shape, or. what will
serve the same purpose, accustom our eyes to
the ungraceful outline. Tan, gray. blue, and
black cloths are used for these coats. and dressy
ones are made OF black velvet. black satin. and
chameleon silks. and both cloth and silk conts
are often lined with white satin. which is consid-
cred very chic.
Capes are shorter than those worn In the win
ter and excessively wide, They are made OF all
sorts OF materials. such as smooth-faced cloth,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

An excellent remedy for a cough is made BY
slicing two lemons thin and adding to them ten
cents worth of whole faXseed. ten cents worth
of lic0riC" root. one GIL of water. and a little
sugar. Boil until quite thick and strain.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29
A. SIMONSON,
9JJ BROADWAY,
'ctW con east and eed So

Hair goods ae tnis sA on a sp Of ATTY OF my estab-
lshment' the qua ity Is matches, tho shading. OF .
pure siIvcy tone, is unsurpassed, the designs are
artistic, anu the assortment Is enprmousl You make
a mlsraEs IN not looking at my s;ocs nrst, before yoa
order or purchase e,sowhora. lean show you the haiE
In It's natural state before SANG IS ma = up Ia AAy
style you may Desire.
f0- The above argument can ne safely applied to all
other rare and beautiful shades Of human hair "
A beautiful colored, illustrated treatise on the ara
of Hair Dressing sent gratis on application.
A. SIMONSON.
$50 BROADWAY. 2lsr AND asD sra.
r--HH#--- A. A~EHkN
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

II is said that if parsley IL eaten with onions
or a salad containing onions the Odor OF the
onion will not affect the breath. The sprigs OF
parsley should be eaten as you would celery.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

Very novel and elegant dress trimmings are
em embroidered bands, in various widths, OF black
chiffon done in silk OF soft coiors with a mixture
of gold and silver thread, lace, and spangles.
Hontton and Venetian lace over velvet bands is
sun nnOther.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

these dressy garments. Cloth capes, with deep
fan ~plaitings OF checked Taffeta silk set In be-
tween the folds, to add color and fulness TO the
effect. are one Of the successes Of tho season.
Palmer light cloth capcs nr0 finished with rows
of stitching for their only trimming. and those In
dark blue ara effectively decorated with narrow
gold braid sewn in rows around the edge.
Variety In shape is q feature of dressy black
wraps. and some of them are in the form Of II
fchu or pelerine. which is much sought after by
elderly ladies. such n wrap, made of silk and
trimmed with lace frills, has u quaint, old
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

To prevent a bruise from discolOrinR apply
Immediately hot water, or, II that is not az
hand. moisten some dry starch with cold water
and cover the bruised place.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

To stain wood 10 look like ebony. take q solu-
tion of %sulphate of iron and wash the wood over
twice. When the wood becomes dry apply two
or three coats Of n strong decOction of logwond,
Wipe the wood dry and polish with a flannel
Mct In linsnnu oil
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

Ink may he taken out Of paper in the follow
ing way If the stain is not too old: Take a tcs-
spoonful of chlorinated lime and pour over 1t
just enough water to cover II. Take a piece of old
linen ard mu!sten it with this mixture, and do
not rub, bur pat the stain, and il will slowly
disappear. lf one application does not remove
the stain let the paper dry and then apply again.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

Salt added to new milk will curdle II; there
fore, in preparing porrdge, custards, or RravieA.
do not add the salt until the last thing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

Do not wash oilcloths or linoleum In hot soap
suds. Wash them with tepid water and wipe
with a cloth dampened In equal parts of cold
milk and water.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

When baking cake, on removing it from the
oven place tho tin containing the cake on .
towel for n moment and the cake may
he taken from tho tin without sticking.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-03-29

To set the color and prevent delicate colored
cambrics and dimities from fading when
washed. dissolve five cents worth of sugar OF
lead in Il pail of cold water and soak the gar.
ment in II two hours; then rinse and wash.