davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

are no exceptions to the rule. TIL
drawing room is hung with stripe
paper in a lovely shade of yellow
while above it comes a frieze of tn
palest blue-a combination, by the way
of Amaryllis' favorite colors. Old blu
china adorns the white avermantel, an
there is an inlaid cabinet full of curio
and treasures, while cosy armchair
and a restful settee proclaim tn
beauty of shining white chintz pat
termed with pink and yellow roses
There are long curtains. too, of thi
same quantity lovely chintz, thei
iOoped-up folds displaying a lining o
faint blue, while the lattice windows
with their loaded glass panes and shor
frilled curtains of pale yellow silk. ar
thrown open to give a glimpse of tn
yellow and white marguerites which
fill the window boxes.
II fact, these windows are positiv
delight to the eye. and especially tina
one where. on a silver-streWn table,
wealth Of pink roses bloom out from
blue-and-white bowl. for Amarylli
loves flowers, and they are accorded
a place of honor in all her rooms. The!
catch up the white muslin and lac
drapery of her bed, and peep out from
either side of the great round glass o
her Chippendale dressing table, will
its array of silver. only in this cas-
they are the product Of art ard not o
nature, though it takes you some tim
to discover the fact. Nature assert
herself, however, in the window DO,
once more while Amaryllis favorit
blue is represented by the wall paper
with it's narrow stripes of white ant
it's quaint scrolls of tiny pink ant
white flowers tied up by equally dim
inutive blue bows. and there are cur
tains and drapperies of blue and whit
chintZ. MISS UP-TO-DATE-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

black tips, and red and orange velvet
rosettes under the brim.
A fashionable street dress that does
not need to be made by tailor and
reed not cost a great deal, is made of
Scotch plaid wool, which is to be had IN
inexpensive qualities, with a short loose
coat OF dark green or blue velvet or vel
veteen. The coat should have some full
ness in it, say box pladt behind, turned
inside, and side plat on each side the
front This fulnesS in some sort COM
pensates for the lack of good tailor cut
and also for any cheapness in the ma
terial. 1t will be easier for the amateur
to finish the neck with box plated
ruch of the velvet than with a collar A
satin ribbon bow may be placed at the
back of the neck and another with ends
in front. A bishop sleeve will be the
easiest to make, with a turnover cuff.
The skirt may be trimmed with narrow
ruff1es of velvet, say two ait the foot
and one nearly half way up.
Preference seems to be largely for the
loose coat, and this form will certainly
serve as foundation for immovable fam
tastes in velvet and fur for rich winter
dress. Another thing that will tend to
keep 1T in favor is that it is found very
adaptable to bicycle wear. Jacket
sleeves are such modest gigots as to
pass unnoticed. Buttons are rather more
in view than usual and a preoccupation
is shown with their choice. They are in
oxidfzed silver and gilt with chiselled
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

threads of green, red and yellow,
forming a plaid over a plain ground,
or as a damask figure in cashmere col
ors, but mixed and changeable grounds
seem to have disappeared. The char
acter of the patterns may be inferred
from one of a broken scroll in black
on a colored ground, as of red or SAT-
from, the design covering well the
ground with an all-over effect. WOOL
crepons are not being made.
But novelty woods have not now the
fashionable vogue they formerly had,
and it may be useful to say so. They
are more and more neglected for plain
Weaves and plain colors. The hgher
I'D one goes among the dressmakers IN
the scale of authority, the more is re-
marked for street dress an exclusive
use of serge and cloth. The reason
seems to be that such dress TENDS more
and more to tailor forms With the slyle
and beauty in the cut. 1t is inttnded
10 he worn every day throughout a
season. and takes the place of the va
Iietv of changes of other times. II is
a costume as is mans business SUM-
and such dress needs to be OF duraple
and plain material.
Years ago figured woods were mace
nm with a bodice and trimmed, ana
extra wrappingS were put on lor tie
street. and this is true now OF the al
fernoon dress of women of leisure When
they 60 out for ceremonious visit. A
visiting dress may be of wool as Wen
as of silk, and it is just here that these
rovelties find fashionable use, though
II is but truth to say that even mere
Main cloth is for the most part pre-
ferred-
Scotch plaids do not come under TINS
structure. They have been proouc.e s, \, ~
s1e,.1- much worn. They take for the
street jacket of plain material, blue
or green. :. 80
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
IN wOMAN;s WoRID.

Now that the shirt waist days are
over one would naturally suppose that
the pand necktie, so closely associated
with 1t, would also take it's departure.
But this fall this chic little necktie has
taken new lease of life, owing to the
popularity of the changeabIe silk
waists. These waists are the present
substitute of the cotton shirt waist and
are made in exactly the same design.
In addition to this they are worn with
a stiff linen collar and cuffs They do
not button down the front, but are
made to be fastened with studs. The
newest come in a variety of color com
binations. Changeable golden brown
and green silk makes an effective waist,
also deep blue shading into a soft olive
green. The majority Of these silk shirt
waists are made without lining, but
for wear during the cooler autumn days
they may be bought, not only lined,
but as stiffiy boned as an ordinary
cloth bodice. The neckties to be worn
With them come in as great a variety
as the waists themselves. The latest
are of black, dark brown or deep blue
silk, with band of bright color near
the end. Occasionally the band is of
plaid silk instead of plain color. En-
tire plaid silk neckties will also be
much worn with these changeable silk
waists. A novel feature of the new
silk theatre waists is the unique wav
in which they are to be trimmed with
buttons. The latest French models are
made with the wide crush belt, which
is usually of velvet and fastened with
five medium sized buttons, each but
ton differing in color and design. The
effect, though odd, is exceedingly pref
ty if the buttons are well selected.
= p
Having taken his brides name upon
marriage, a Topeka man who is suing
for divorce, wants now to regain the
untarnished name of his heyday.
Among the elaborate pillows for
drawing room decoration there are
some exquisite creations that are
veritable works of art. Cushions made
of beautiful French tapestry of the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

finest texture are among the popul
designs. This tapestry comes
squares. usually of a large size. al
the design is in the Vatican of Lou
XVI style, with fair ladies in beau,
full toilets sporting beneath feathe|
trees with powdered men in elabora.
coats and small clothes. They a
finished of by an immense cord
silk about the edge. Satin printed
French design is also sold ready {
cushion covers. Brocades in elabora
flower designs and pale coIors are use
the brocade being sold by the yard
the interior decoration department
shops. Plain satin cushions. in yellol
white. pale leaf green or old rose. a
made I'D with large cord finish at t
edge, and have immense rosettes
the corners. A very artistic one
made of pale leaf green satin, sha
that blends well with general hou
furnishings. The satin is fitted close
over the down pillow and the edge h
an immense rope-like cord of silk I
finish, while at the four corners a
large rosettes of white satin.
The youthful bride and her pref
home are usually a charming combin
ton, and Amaryllis and her dainty 4
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

There has been an attempt to introduce
colored stockings, but it has had yet no
appreciate success.
The flannel petticoat reaches well be-
low the knee, to a length between the
drawers and the long skirt. and is fin
ished by preference without a hem,
with a six-inch ruffie embroidered on
the edge. or in default Of embroidery
with an edge of wool lace. This skirt
is preferably white.
A long petticoat of black satin, wad-
ded and quilted and lined with colored
flannel. A marrow plaiting Of black
satin ribbon is set in the edge. In
stead of satin. cotton satinet may be
used These skirts are warm, but some
what heavy. a lighter weight and
more ornamental skirt is of colored
taffeta, lined with flannel, but not
wadded. This skirt may be- as orna-
mental as one likes. Among the de-
signs is one of striped blue and black
silk lined with blue flannel with mar
row pinked ruffie of plain blue silk in
the edge. On the outside is a 15-inch
ruffle of the stripe, cut straightwise of
the cloth, the upper half all in vertical
tucks, and pinked on the edge. An
other of lowered silk is lined with rose
flannel and has a blouse of old rose
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
RTTs OF FIN.

The man who thinks that he drinks be
cause he likes company is apt to take
something when alone in order to avoi(
feeling lonesome. Milwaukee Journal
Mrs. Ferry-Don't you feel ashamed Of
wasting your time the way you do?
Perry Patettic-I don's see how you kir
call it wasted, mum. How kin you waste
ANYTHING that amt worth nothin?-Cin-
cinnati Enquirer.
CITY Young Man (watching the skirt
dancers gyrdtions on the stage)-Grace-
full. isn't IT, Aunt Emiline2
Aunt Emiline (fresh from Wayback)-
Graceful? Disgraceful 1 should say
Somerville Journal.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

A gown of black satin has a low
necked blouse with sleeves of the satin,
slashed open down the front, over a
high necked bodice of black Brussels
net. On the blouse are appliques of
net. On the skirt is a plat or ruffle
of the net.
A novelty among the materials for
black gowns is a mixture of silk and
wool SO woven as to throw the silk up
onto the surface loose and wrinkled in
such patterns as crossbars, polka dots
and stripes, the contrast in relief with
the dead wool ground. Some of them
are striped with velvet, and the effect
is particularly good. This material is
rather dead but it needs no trimming
beyond little velvet 1t is made up
with a blouse. The same material is
produced in colors.
NEW FRENCH UNDERWEAR
A few words may be useful on I'M
derclothing. The change from warm
to cold weather wear is not so radical
with French women as with Anleri-
cans and is principally confined to the
addition of warm skirts. The pieces
as being worn may be described as fol-
lows:
A chemise of fine batiste, without
sleeves, with a minimum Of material in
Tie WlQlu. IL is DlduO narrower DSninQ
than in front, and the latest design
has the back all in tucks from the neck
to the bottom of the waist. The chem
Use to wear with ball gowns has no
straps over the shoulders but is cut
straight round. Ribbons hold it up
while the corset is being put on and
are then united.
The drawers of batiste or thicker
cotton end just below or above the
knee. 1t is the fashion to have them
very short, so that the knee is barely
| covered by the ruff1e. They are also
/, very wide, measuring twenty-six inches
which is gathered into a band measur-
ing twenty-four. The lower edge is
rounded up towards the outside giving
the effect of a slight festoon. 1t is
then gathered into the narrow band
and a ruffle added on. The top is not
sewed into yoke but is fitted by short
cores.
The corset is oftenest but not always
black, and from it depend black garter
straps that attach to black stockings
| There is talk of a change in the form of
the corsets, which will be low and loose
| at the top and close only over the alb
domen, permitting not a small but a
| long waist. This relates to the change
! to a slender effect mentioned above
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

The jacket is rather short and has a. GER
tain bobbed-off look, as though it were a
pendant to the collar. 1t hangs from
the neck and so effaces the bust, as it
is as wide as the hips, these last are
Swallowed and practically annihilated.
The skirt, by refinement in its cut
still further effaces the hips. Instead of
being convex at the top and 50 follow
irg the natural form, the outline runs
from the belt to the foot in line nearly
straight on even slightly faring out
wards. Besides the gigot used by the
tailors there are other sleeves close
at the top and wide at the elbows, that
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
nose as nne shame is nreferred or the

loose, as one shape is preferred or the
other.
A dress of black serge just made has
the front breadth Tapped over with a
double row of stitching and three large
smoked pearl buttons on each seam near
The top. Short loose coat, double breast
ed. with two rows of buttons carrying
IN the lines of those on the skirt.
Standing turnover collar. Blouse of In
dia, fculard in which red and yellow pre-
dominate. Red felt hat trimmed with
black velvet, a rhine stone buckle and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

PARIS. Sept. 2S.-French fancy woods
are this year rather simple in design
and show, as did summer materials, a
study of Oriental patterns. They are
mainly formed of plain ground and
a superposed clear-cut pattern in
either damask or boucle weave. The
pattern may have more than one color.
as boucle lines of black with mingled
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

or repousse pattern, and also in fine
mother-of-pe and colored enamels. :
Skirts of wool costumes promise to be
a little shorter than usual. 1t is tiresome
and nearly impossible to hold up the
weight of an English serge of the quail
ity in use, and tailors say they should
clear the ground.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

it is too early to say what develop
ment jackets may take when cold
weather sets in. The fashion for the
demi-season consists in copying sum-
mer forms in warmer material. What
was in pique is now in serge or cloth
or velvet, and the form is fitted or
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
NEW NECK DECORATIONS.

silk covered with transparency of
ecru linen. A delicate one of yellow
silk lined with white flannel has Over
tapping ruff1es of the same, with waved
edges bound with black velvet.
Cheaper and more durable skirts are
IN MORE mohair in all the delicate
SHADES. ADA CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
FRENCH FASHIONS.
a LETTER FROM PARIS REFLECT
ING EARLY WINTER SIN les.

1T is Now the Mode to Be slender
Partisan Lingerie Shows "a Novel
Cut of Chemise With Heavy Pet
tjcOats-PIain Cloths Have SUI
perceded WOOIens and Are Used
For AIl-Day Costumes.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

give to the shoulders a narrow effect.
Finally the hat is no longer trimmed on
both sides alike. and SO appears smaller
than 1t did. 1t is less loaded with trim
ming and the crown is more in view
Also high crowns are being tried.
From all this it would seem that fash
ion is tending towards a long slender
figure. The resources of art permit wo-
men to look plump at one time and slim
at another, and we seem to be on the
way towards SUCH metamorphosis.
Winter will tell
FOR THE CHASE.
While street gowns have been pre-
pairing for town, the fortunate world
that possesses chateauX or has friends
that do, and so fingers on in the coun-
try, has been having made for it hunt
ing costumes after English models, in
which it is pretending to fish and shoot.
These gowns are made of heavy En-
glish material and may be finished with
leather facings. The skirt stops be-
tween the knee and ankle; it is fat on
the front and sides, with the fullness
thrown behind, but must have ampli-
tude enough for ease in walking. A
costume in green cloth has a fitted
bodice with plain round basque with
out godets; fastened down the front
with black brandebourgs, with a wide
black silk elastic belt. Black soutache
seams of the skirt, ending in an orna-
ment of three loops. White linen col
lar and black necktie. High black
CATERS and blue and green plaid stock
ings, soft felt hat with peacock
feather Another costume in brown
homespun is made with short double
breasted boxcoat, and the coat and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
THE COMING STYLE.

AS to the style of autumn dress, since
there is no longer any emphasis given
to the sleeves it is not easy to say in
just what it consists. Its tendency may
be inferred from the following details.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

skirt are faced with brown leather
Shirt of blue and green plaid, with
turnover collar of the same and black
tie. Soft brown felt hat with black
quill. Highslaced tan boots and black
stockings, basket with rod or gun
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

a yellow chiffon front The bodice has
a flat basque behind and is short on
the hips, like a figaro, and slightly
pointed toward the front. Revers and
cuffs are of velvet and wide velvet
puff is at the foot of the skirt. But
tons are at the bottom of the waist
behind and on the front and the cuffs.
This is a visiting gown and requires
an extra cloak or furs.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
Chateau TOILETTES.


After tramping across fields in this
severe and boyish costume, evening
finds the same women in the softer
draperies of what is technically known
as a toilette de chateau" At this
time of the year the dressmakers call
every elaborate gown chateau tot
lette. Comes under this head not only
the gown one puts on for the dinner
and evening if staying at country
house. but the dress-up gown as well
that one needs for dinners and other
occasions in town.
Such gowns are long sleeved and high
necked, and the materials are velvet,
cloth or silk, with accessories of chif-
fon, fur, lace and jeweled passemen-
terie. The Foundation fer some of the
prettiest ones is the bolero. Others
have a low necked blouse like the
skirt over a high bodice of chiffon or
lace. A few are made in princess form,
A dress of this sort is composed of
a shirt and short bolero with sleeves
of ivory white cork screw cloth, and
a Russian belt of gold ribbon set with
imitation turquoises. The front of the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11
FOR WALKING WEAR

With regard to street costume proper
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

7Evy77r-F7-yE-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-10-11

Having taken his brides name upon
marriage, a Topeka man who is suing
for divorce, wants now to regain the
untarnished name of his heyday.
Crawford avalanche. (Grayling, Mich.) 1879-19??, 1896-05-14

r. Lucas of Indianapolis, the report of the
Committee on Rules and Permanent Or
ganization was read. Ex-Secretary Of
the Navy Richard w. Thompson was re-
ported for permanent chairman, with a
rousing cheer. and G. X. Stormont was
named for secretary. The report was
unanimously adopted.
When whitc-haired "Uncle Dick"
Thompson assumed the gavel he was
greeted with rousing reception. De-
spite his IS years, the ex-Secretary deliv-
cred stirring speech, which disposed Of
the Democratic party to the entire salts
faction of the crowd, and vigorously pre-
dicted a sweeping victory for Republican
principles in the coming election.
At the conclusion Of Col. Thompson's
speech there were loud cries of "Harri-
son." but the ex-President did not appear,
and the report of the Committee on Gre
dentials was submitted and accepted
without contest. Then came the reading
Of the platform ana resolutions.
Crawford avalanche. (Grayling, Mich.) 1879-19??, 1896-05-14

Europe, and to other charitable pur
poses upon the death of his son, still
remain for disbursement In years to
come. The Baron's title was inherited
from his father, not bestowed in recog-
milton of his philanthropy, as many
have supposed. The greater portion Of
his enormous wealth was won by his
own efforts. 1t was while travelling
throughxhe rich countries bordering on
he Black Sen that he conceived the idea
of the vast enterprise which laid tho
foundation for perhaps the greatest in.
dividIal fortune in Europe. This was
the building of a railroad from Varna,
on the Black Sea, to Buda-Pesth.
1t is roughly estimated that Baron
Hirsch died worth $500, 900. In 1853
he retired from the business of money
making and married Miss BischOffs-
helm, the daughter of one of his part
ners, who brought him as dowry 100,-
OOO,OCG francs. This money was in
vested apart from the husbands wealth.
Husband and wife gave themselves up
to the business of distributing tEeir
money among the poor, and We'd with
each other in good deeds. He founded
free schools in Egypt, Asiatic Turkey,
and in the countries of Europe. These
charities were chiefly beneficial to the
poor Of the Jewish race. The Hebrews
of Poland and the country of the Dan
ube were his favorites. Four or five
years ago he gave the Government of
Austria 100000 francs for the estab-
lishment of non-sectarian schools In
that country. About the same time he
donated a similar amount for the edu.
cation and AmericaniZing of Russian
Jews emigrating to the States.
Baron Hirsch lived like n prince. He
maintained in the most elegant fashion
magnificent residences in London, Par
is and Berlin. His country estates were
rich and princely, more especially his
largest estate in Moravia. He resided
chiefly in Paris, and in that city he had
a great office filed with recorders,
clerks and managers, whose only occu-
patton was that of carrying on the
charitable work of the benefactor. Per
sonally the Baron was a very handsome
man. He was of medium height and
gracefully but compactly built Gen.
tleness and intellectually were strong
ly marked in his face. His eyes wero
large, dark and soft as n woman's. His
continental life gave him a thorough
knowledge of most of the languages
Of Europe. He spoke English, French.
German, Italian, Spanish and Russian,
and was familiar with many Of the OBJ
scure tongues of Europe. He was
man Of polish, and his knowledge of pc.
litical, social and economic questions
was broad and deep. 1t is said that his
gifts to charity summed up more than
f12. 100000.
Crawford avalanche. (Grayling, Mich.) 1879-19??, 1896-05-14
Told i'm n Few Lines.

The jewelry store Of NJ. ]. Cohen, Pitts
burg, Pa, was robbed Of $1,000 worth
Of diamonds by three men and woman.
Philip d. Borden, the Oldest active man
ufacturer in Fall River, Mass, and wide
~ known in textile circles, Is dead, aged
80 years.
A letter from Smyrna, Western Tur-
key, says that Armenian relief funds are
diminishing while the number Of destitute
Is increasing.
The. schooner Viking, which left San
Frapciscoion Nov. 10 for the South sea,
Is dmonth overdue and fears are express
ed for her safety. The Viking carried a
crew Of eight men. ws@
1t is said that the Spanish Government
has declined the Pope's mediation in
Cuban affairs, on the ground that the
acceptance would be tantamount to rec
ognizing Americas right to interfere.
Fire destroyed the Adirondack Hotel,
Emerson Bank, the music hall and sew
eral residences and stores at Warrens-
burg, Warren County, N. w entailing a
loss of $4,000. which is partially in
sured.
The Moulton Leather Company, having
factories at Lynn, Mass, assigned to A.
w. Pope & Co., Of Boston, for $135, 900.
Most Of the claims against the corpora
ton are held in New. York and Philadel
phia.
Engineer Tanning Of cattle train was
killed and his fireman, p. Mcclellan, En-
gineer De Groat, Fireman McOlairville,
a sleeping car porter and others were bad.
ly injured in n Northern Pacific wreck
near Livingston, Mont.