The record-union., 1896-11-08

son than any single hue or combination
of hues, and it will prevail in all 1t:
| varied shades, from orange and colder
yellow to the faintest canary, maize
primrose, or cream tints. Milliners arr
giving special prominence to yellow IL
velvet, laces, rosettes, aigrettes, chiffor
and gold passementeries and ornaments
Black and white effects still find much
favor among full-dress toilets botl
here and abroad
Although black is a marked favoritt
| among autumn and winter gowns ane
costumes, it is as rule i'll combination
or at least frightened on the bodies
portion by gay stock collar, cuffs ant
girdle of folded velvet, or a small yoke
vest, or short plastron of bright cerfse
yellow, green or a mixture of Tartar
colors, the folds of the girdle and col
lar being this season held by buckle
of glittering French brilliants. Some
times the gown is toned with miroir vel
vet, and a border of fur is added. Many
of the handsome black fabrics this fal
have deep, rich color interviewer witt
| the black silk or fine wooden textile, and
| VI
velvet or repped silk to be used as 9
| bodice trimming.
Full medium-length capes of brocade
are still preferred by very many womer
| to the newer enveloping long cloaks, as
| the former do not crush the dress skirt
| or it's garniture. These are interlinec
with fibre chamois for warmth and te
| keep them in shape, and then lined
! throughout with plain or chameleon
satin. The trimmings are narrow bands
Of rich fur and Oriental passementeries
in new jewel effects.
! The newest walking coats are slight
| ly longer than those of last spring, and
all the old ripple on the skirt portion
| has vanished, the basques fitting
smoothly over the front and sides, with
no extra material at the back, only
| just enough to allow the coat skirt to
| fall easily above the dess skirt. Sim
pie English styles are made withou,
| reverS, showing a high standing collar
and medium sleeves. More elaborate
styles have braided vest and revers
era shawl-shaped collar braided and
|
coats have plain finish of a double
row Of buttons.
| Reversible satins of the stand alone
| quality are made use of by high-class
modistes. This season their two-toned
effects are particularly charming
| Green shot with gold, violet with re-
seda or deep rose color palest pink with
aZurine, the new equisite tint in blue
moss green with damask rose, silver
! gray and mauve, and many tints in yell
low with white, sea-green or violet.
| The rage for chiffon. mousselaine de
sole and tulle accessories, and for
waists, sleeves and entire evening toll
| lets. is as great as if this began their
| first notable season of popularity.
|
Some of the new seven -gored skirts
are satin-corded, or covered with a
narrow braid or bead gimp. Even the
| sloped seam at the back is trimmed like
| those on the front and sides. On these
| particular skirts, ruches frills, millin-
ers' folds; in fact, all foot trimmings
| are omitted, to show the unbroken line
Of color on each seam from belt to hem.
| Very elegant Persian embroideries
are imported designed to trim costumes
| of fine wool and corded silks The
| foundation is closely woven canvas
| and the beautiful devices are wrought
| in biack-twisted silks and fine gold and
| bronze threads intermixed with iri-
descent beads
Among the fashionable accessories OF
| the season the short jackets with only
| deep pointed cape take a noticea BILE
place. They are smart looking, and al
the same time very notwithstanding to
freshen and brighten partly worn
toilet, and to provide additional warmth
as the cold weather advances. Most
of these sleeveless bodices are made in
| bright colored materials geranium
rasturtium, and dahlia velvet or cloth
being used. Worn with handsome
| black skirt and with sleeves to match
on the under bodice, the sleeveless
| jacket of brilliant hue cannot be
thought bizarre. Many such small gar
| r,ents are shaped and braid-trimmed
exactly like an officers mess jacket
Dressmakers are using shot velvet
| for the sleeve puffs, bretelles, girdles
centuries and revers which are still a
prominent feature of fashionable cor
sages. These are not very expensive
additions, give q much more dressy ap-
| pearance to woolen gown than it
would otherwise present. There are
patterned velvets designed for the same
purpose; also ribbed iridescent velvets,
| the grounds sprinkled with diamonds,
cubes, dots, etc, in a darker color than
the foundation. Repped woods and
other corded fabrics, whether in self
colors or shot, bid fair to be greatly
| favored among dress fabrics for winter
wear.
Bolero, Figaro, and also short, square
| fronted Russian jackets appear upon
scme of the smartest gowns of the
season. Long enveloping redingotes
and cloaks made up opposite extremes
while short and medium capes, jacket
| hodices, and coats contest for favor in
| the world of fashion. Directoire or
Medici collars complete one and all of
these garments, little or large, and
passementeries. fur edgings, braidings,
| or embroidery compose the various
decorations.
Study for Vocaiists.
For the average singer America Of
| fers most excellent teachers; she can
| find all she needs at home" writes Mad
a n ~