New-York tribune., 1896-09-27

ming display the long. slim waist Of which the
English woman is proud. Among the stufs is
n heavy material called make Of serge. 1t
is heavier than face-cloth with rough surface
that suggests felt. II is well pretty.
and will stand good deal Of wettng, useful
quality in English climate. A costume of this
in gray has pointed braided pattern done on the
skirt in a dull shade OF green. The iacket-basque
has fiat jacket sides also braided. and fiat waist
coat of red velvet unbroken even by a line of but
tons. The fiat wastcoat closing invsiby
is in several models.
A more elaborate gown is OF face-cloth of royal
blue-that bright shade of blue so popular here
Indeed royal blue and bright red the popular
colors In the smooth goods. The coarse canvas
woods In plum and a reddish shade OF brown.
both OF which coors nice trimmed with black
This blue gown is made with Figaro Jacket Tn
der the Jacket is a blouse waistcoat of black
cuc, which turns over the Jacket in little revers
faced with orange velvet. The Directoire belt is
OF the bright velvet There is lace front over the
caraculc and bits of arranged In the choker
There are really moro fitted basques than jacket
suits shown this home Of the tailor made
1t is difficult to discover anything novel In the
way Of jacket and skirt arrangement. II except
an ella borate costume of fawn cloth trimmed with
an embroidery OF gray braid and set in pieces OF
white satin. The embroidery is used both on skirt
and Jacket The Jacket is fitted in the back and is
loose and straight in front. fastening with one
of gold hlgree buttons. 1here ~ nat cOilar
making short in front of the cloth over a
deeper one of white satin The choker and fiat
chemisettc are of green velvet.
At Jays there some elaborate creations in
the shape of capcs and jackets. There is ten
dency to have the elaborate capes fitted II not
entirely at least behind and the full cape sleeves
have under straps through which the arms pass
They are real;j mantlcs than capes although
they are short and elaborate.
The coming winter will doubtless show us a
number Of velvet and fur-trmmed Jackets. The
Jacket in London is no longer tho smart. severe
garment for morning wholly, but the proper
thing for visiting toilets One elaborate
ent has sleeves OF black velvet in the ggot shape,
with several rows OF heavy cordng arranged in
cluster half way between tho shoulder and elbow
The body part OF the JACKIE IL fitted and extends
in moderately rufe1 skirts over the hips. This
and the high rolling collar OF black Persian
lamb There is narrow and fiat circular
collar Gu: into tabs of ermne. There are tabots
of yellow lace in the slashings and down the sides
OF the vest. The garment Is nicely lined with
white satin and the London price OF II Is 30 guineas
"A LOT of money for jacket which. lovely as II is
Is too conspicuous TO remain long In favor.
One can hardly enter hgh-class London shop
without noting only the height and air OF dis
tnction the attendants possess, but their refined
voices and manner Referring TO this one day the
manager of a large establishment said that the
girls in their dressmaking department are required
"a have ALI these qualifications and for the most
nart they come from good families. preferring this
10 the overcrowded occupations OF nursery gov
erness or companion. There Is hardly much to
choose from In point OF freedom. for all the girls
are Obliged TO live in a building provided by and
under the SUPERVISION OF the management These
homes are doubtless comfortable. but the rules
are extremely strict. No masculine callers are ever
allowed and the house is closed promptly at TO-
If girl misses the closing hour on three occasions
AFnn n
agement claim that these rules necessitate their
attendants taking proper amount Of rest and
nrobably customers find 1t to their advantage not
to be Obliged to listen to account OF the last
dance or what "he said" and 'she said when
they wish to be waited on
AT the furriers there are some novel ''cois. cut
with a point in the back reaching half way to the
waist high over the shoulders. and with long ends
IN front touching the hem OF the skirt, The col
lars are high and rolling. but turn over with deep
no,nts I'm front instead OF the rounded edges OF
last season These are often elaborately trimmed
one of mink has embroidery Of brown SILK
passemenere about the carmen ed WIN iba colIar dhse
The long ends finished by fringe OF iur tais
and another rosette .
Some are very gay in color A Louis XIV coat Is
Of brown seal with blouse waistcoat OF red velvet
A sash of black more Is draped about the gar
nent passing through the jacket sides ana tying
ON one side Of the blouse. with long ends hanging
Fancy buttons are used on fur Jackets and coats
even when there is no other trimming; seq sraisRn an
or two rows OF gold hlgree buttons mover coat
seal has vest nd on ~he fanr from the eun The
sscoue- ped garment appears in velvet ana tur:
One OF brown velvet has rong colar T n'a jke,
| canning under the arms made or seal The lacket
is emf up in a point In the back and the yeVet is
gathered FUN at The pon snggesns a Ins yske soar
,nasine epatletes over the shoulders Of sable The
sable Is cut out Cshow a pattern on the lining OF