Evening star., 1896-12-26

and Nice used to be the rallying points of
winter travel and fashion. Then the tide
set eastward past Monaco to Mentone and
San Reno and Savona.
This winter the English and Germans are
tiring little of the old places and spread
ing themselves past Genoa, the boundary
of the western Riviera, into the Riviera di
levdnte, the beautiful eastern Riviera.
Ihere are gay winter colonies at Nervi, at
LeriCi, near which town Shelley lived, at
Massa and other places Genoa, the cap
ital. geographically, of the Riviera,. feels
the influence of this migration, and II and
out Of the Via oegli Orefici, the street of
the jewellers, gay with coral work and gold
and silver fligree, and the cafes with their
orange gardens and olive trees, and the
enormous theaters, the beauty and the
fashion of Europe hutter for space, if
they make no delay.
There are Americans, too. Mrs. Maude
Howe Eliot. Julia Ward Howe's daughter,
Travelled with US for a time on her way to
Rome. Miss Amy Bend, the New York
beauty, aired costumes from Paris in COM
pany with her younger and even prettier
sister, Miss Beatrice Bend. Then there is
the ever-present American bride. She sail
ed with US over the Mediterranean and
served afternoon tea on deck to the captain
and the ships doctor out of her wedding
china. There were three of her en- voyage
from Spain, and more of her are smiling
with blue lips at theiE husbands as they do
the tourists duty and listen to the band in
the Aquasola Park at Genoa this bitter af-
ternoon.
A Pretty Costume.
One of the prettest costumes 1 have seen
hereahouts was In this same AquasoIa Park
a day or two ago. 1t was warmer then and
the sun shone. The Tramontane wind was
not blowing, and the date palms and the fig
trees did not seem such vegetable absurd-
ties. The woman who wore IL was young
and trim OF ngure: not pretty, but chic,
French woman, evidently The material
was a nrm repped cloth of deep warm
Nenetian red, with a novel cape-Iike ar
rangement in yet deeper and warmer vel
vet covering the shoulders. The skirt was
OF rather severe cut. scant, rather than
full, and fell in long stately folds, as befits
a gown that spends Us brief hour Of beauty
among palaces of the doges.
a wide band of sable at the hem gave II
weight and distinction The bodice was
notable only for the original arrangement
OF its narrow silk braces. which passed
over the shoulders outside of the cape,
holding 1t IN position Large gold filigree
buttons OF Genoase design fastened these
braces at bust and at waist, and fastened
also a smart silk bow at the throat as well
as the odd twists OF red velvet which orna-
mented the little toque that crowned a
head of dark hair The shoulder cape al
ready mentioned was shoulder cape liter
ally. IL covered the shoulders only, and
was cut up in deep scaliops over the droop-
Ing puns of the sleeves 1t was overlaid
edged about with sable
The toque with the red velvet bows held
out foT admiration so soft black feather
a-grette cIasped by a dark rose large
red velvet muf with red silk futings COM
pleted the ;e-,iEROny that Italy, sunny Italy
has winter Of its own.
The Princesse Mode.
In Il group near the Parisienne in red a
tall girl stood in a graceful princesse gown.
The princesse mode is in greater favor here
than III America. and so a good example of
II Is well worth describing. The dress In
question was of heavy gros grain silk, not
quite youthful enough in look for its wear
er. but admirably suited for Young
matron- In coior I was a very dark green.
with delicate tracery IN silver and black
embroidery DOWN the front and back Of the
bodice and down the side darts, and so on
Gown the skirt draper.es. These beautiful
cmbroideries somehow just fled the oneness
OF waist and skirt TO eyes that through all
changes OF fashion continue 20 demand a
break at the waist line. a vest of marten
fur filled in the front of the bodice and ran
down 10 the robes hem. The .Ieeyes were
slightly putfed at the shnIlfers. banded
with fur at the elbows and embroidered
thence TO the wrists Yellow velvet roses
encircled the large, dark green felt hat.
One other outdoor dress needs a word n,
ention- 1t is a model costume for export
TO Paris Of the rich silk stuffs for whict
the looms OF Genoa are famous. The sof.
gray moire is shot with dark purple, givina
the hue of a pigeons breast In the sun
The skirt is rather full so full that French
modtstes may decree some alteration before
the style meets approval at their hands. /
has : band Of fur eight inches wide at the