Omaha daily bee., 1896-12-20

| has a three-inCh facing OF the fur, with the
upper edge cut in a waved line, beaded by
rows of narrow soutache braid following the
| same line The bodice has the velvet laid on
smooth and covered on the lower part
with a wide belt of black satin. short
| bolcrO falling open in front is thus made.
| The bolero lining Is covered with the fur
| except for space around the edges, includ-
! ing the armholes and ths is covered with
tho velvet. The fur is cut with a waved edge
and sewed down on the velvet and then the
velvet Is covered with lines of soutache,
| to match the skirt. The effect is extremely
rich Sleeves OF the velvet. with the wrists
| open, trimmed to match. and neck band of
the velvet, with the same trimming, and a
piping Of rose velvet on the top.
A handsome gown is of dark blue velvet
and black satin. 1t is made on princess
lining. The velvet covers the skirt and the
waist up to the height of deep corselct and
the upper part of the waist Is covered with
plated black satn, forming a blouse that
passes under the velvet. The edge of the
corseet rounds up high under the arms so
as to touch the armhole and connect with
the top drapery of the sleeves, which Is of
velvet In loops The long clCse sleeve is of
satin. The effect of this gown may be given
with the waist and skirt separate and thus
will be easier to make.
FETCHING PATTERNS.
a gown OF violet and black wool in honey
comb pattern is trimmed with black satin
pipings and violet velvet The skirt has a
cluster of ppingS running down the middle
OF the front breadth. The bodice, which he's
a blouse front. n little bouffant, has the neck
cut down square in front and the space filled
with white openwork embroidery over violet.
From thence down to the belt run a cluster
Of pipings continuing the line of the skirt.
a yoke effect Is given with the violet velvet
that is made 10 run across the front, falling
in deep point on each side, over the should
ers with q point on the sleeves, and acrcSo
the back with a single point in the middle.
Some wool gowns have the bodice trimmed
with rufIlcs or ruShcs of white muslin and
Nalencicnnes lace. II is novel combination
that sounds bizarre, but may be a success.
These ruilles are usually laid under the edge
OF plaits. Thus If the upper half of the
bodice is in plaits a rulle is set under each
the whole giving the effect of a yoke, and
the runlcs are mingled also in the tops of
the sleeves. to include the sleeves fashion
demands in the width of the shoulders.
Among the bodices a good many are plain
fitted. The material taken bias is stretched
smooth over the lining behind, and in the
front it may be bias also, or it may be
drawn down with fiat plaits. No seams
are visible. The lower part Ia covered with
a wide belt that may be a sash ribbon tied
behind with long ends. Such sashes, in
fancy ribbon, part velvet, are worn with
wool afternoon gowns. 1t seems probable
that these plain bodices mean a drawing up
of the corset strings that have been so
comfortably relaxed during the triumph of
the blouse.
THE BLOUSE.
But the blouse has not by any means
finished its days. and may yet prevail over
this routing attempt he plain bodice
is still but a novelty, and the boulfant front
Is yet the general wear.
Como now to the dress with skirt and
jacket alike. Cloth is in great favor for
these ana black. violet and dark blue seem
H., fIa rDFn Hi,n .
jacket liked best by chic young women is
the loose coEt reaching only a little below
the belt. Equally elegant and more quiet
in taste Is the fitted coat. with front open
over the vest, the vest draped with jabot
on a long bow of white lace bordered with
fur. All jackets made with high
collar to stand or turn down.
A. blue cloth skating costume Is trimmed
with astrakan, plated black mOusseline
de sole rutiles and jetted galoon as fol-
lows: On the bottom of the skirt Is a
binding of the fur. on which falls nous
seline ruffie headed by the galoon, and
this trimming is repeated nearly half way
up the skirt. The loose Jacket Is open
down each side the front over panel
set under, equally loose, and this panel is
covered with the mousseline rufiles' running
up and down, alternating with the galoon.
The edges OF the jacket. each side, is bound
with fur. The collar is lined with fur
and inside 1t. attached to the panel of the
front, Is a collar band of the mousselne
and jet
The attention of the reader is called
10 this gown II Is one of the most eXqui-
site designs made in Paris this year.
gown OF violet cloth has facing OF
sable on the bottom and lining OF sable
in the high standing collar. The little
Jacket falls very simply in plaits. Such
n Jacket has the plaits lined with white
or coored satin, and an extra wadded fiat
lining inside. Another violet gown has a
fitted velvet jacket. opening over vest,
and the whole vest is covered by jabot
of cream lace edged with sable.
Black cloth gowns are trimmed with astra-
kan and soutache braid OF satin piplnss.
Some of them have reverse and collar facou
with colored moire silk Then blouse 10
worn underneath of the same color Ihe
sleeves OF all these coats are rather clCse
to the arm and resemble gown sleeves, but
are not too close to prevent blouse sleeve
going inside.
In the category OF cheaper gowns suited
TO skating or tho street is skirt of brown
yelveteen The coat Is double
breasted and fastened with two large fiat
ornamentcd buttons Also pretty gowns are
made OF cheviot, barred with lines of another
color In boucle weave. Thus dark green
with red, etc. These, II trimmed have pip
FUR JACKETS.
Plrsleus are disheartened by the cold sum
mer just past. and expect almost supersti-
tiously that the winter viii be severe, which
explains perhaps the rage for fur coats. Tho
old time sealskin jackets were all OF a pat
tern, but no longer is the cut of fur coat
conventionsly fixed. II is anything you like
and copies all the fantasies going Also
some novel embellishments are allowed.
have Just seen an astrakan jacket made for
a leading actress that has the revers and
collar faced with apple green moire silk.
Over the silk Is laid a coarse toe-colored
netting. and ON The netting are appllqued
chenille flowers In black.
In the manner Of using furs fashionable
dress might study the Russian with profit,
They wear the fur inside the garment and not
outside. aud thus IL serves for warmth and
not for show. 1t Is an arrangement of by
far greater elegance. For illustration such