davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1896-02-08

med at all, but left in it's bare ugliness of
outline. i have seen one, however, decked
with three rolls of satin about the brim,
black plumes nodding behind it and high
on one side rich red rose. Shot ribbon
and mirror velvet, sequ;ns and chameleon
gibbon, cut jet and little mounted humming
birds, spangles, fur, velvets, chiffon-such
are the materials of the hat trinmers' art,
and the fabric upon which they disport
themselves tends now to greens, violets
and deep lustrous blues.
There is always the picture hat. A pretty
head in a picturesque pose well calcula ted
to display the last century curls in the
nape of the neck looked charming at an
afternoon reception yesterday, bearing as
1t did drapery of ecru lace hanging from
punches of wood violets at intervals about
the edge of the hat brim. Above, this hat
was of the sheen of fawn silk, beneath was
lining OF deep violet velvet, and big black
plumes waved at the back and at the left
of the high, hard crown.
one hard, high crown, almost like the bell
crown of mans high hat, planted quite in
the middle of fiat velvet and silk brim
looks odd enough at first, but it is season
of bold innovations.
Another swagger hat of unconventional
mode presents body of white cloth TRIM
med with Egyptian blue velvet. Other trim
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Highest Of all in Leayenng Power-Latest u Govt Report
R9&!a!a!!! g! Rs%asgz RRakieg
ABSOLUTELY PURE

Shelomith, the daughter Of Dibri, of the
tribe of Dan' "a 'He
Thts woman is probably named because
me sons character was so disreputable
eua' ne would reflect no luster on his faith
ers family, and so on his maternal ances-
lors rested his disgrace. If there had been
anyIhins good to be told of him reference
moIn au nc ooubt have been made 10 mis-
me credulity of woman, played upon bv
tne cupldlty of man. is signally portrayed
~ tne relation of woman to the priesthood
~. ne nfss nsht equal rights introduced into
'le "r rnineteenth verse of Deuteronomy xii:
Iaae heed to thyself that thou forsake
ioe tb .ne Levite as long as thou Invest upon
N women have been faithful to anv class
oi tnc human family, IL has been the
LeVile. The chief occupation of their lives
Ee1t 10 child-bearing has been to sustain
one Priesthood and the churches. With
communal begging, fairs and donation mar
tes, they have helped to plant religious
temples on every hill top and valley, and
IN the streets Of all our cities, so that the
o,,,' ,eui church @ beil is forever ringing in
our ears. The Levites have not bean an
unqualified blessing; ever tanning the
names OF religious persecution. they havo
been the chief actors in subiuratinS man
kind" oii
The general misfortune of mans eyer
haVing been introduced into the created
order Is made apparent on every page OF
lRe oman's Bible, and the wretchedness
vi ms inevitable presence among US grows
heavier and harder to bear as mage after
page piles up in proof of the utter evil and
hopelessness Of the situation. Here man Ia
at worst a tyrant, at best a nuisance. but
sun, mere he Is, and what is to be done
with MIN Is problem the new Bible does
not undertake to solve. However as vet
Ihe woman's revision has included only the
6entateuch- When the whole volume Of
nacLeu i writ snail have been impregnated
with the seed of female suffrage doubtless
some new Just Providence will be dscov-
ered to judge mankind according to his
que, and that, determining the authority,
Wcmen Will be found with spirit to execute
nus doom, the Woman's Bible up to date
itself bears evidence r Mon n
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Women and Their Lovers.

From the London Realm.
It is easy enough to tell man by his
friends; but 1t is impossible to tell a wo-
man by her lovers. One reason for this is
that a man usually shows himself to his
fellows as he is; but 1t is impossible for his
fellows to know how he shows himself to
a woman, so long as he is in love with her.
In that blissful condition the rude, off-hand
man of business becomes to his mistress
a picture Of clumsy courtesy; the coward
is capable of feats of velor from which a
French cuirassier would shrink; the meap
tradesmanly person will stop before the
shops of jewelers., hesitate, and at last,
ter; the rake will honestly regret the hearts
he believes that he has broken, and, for
the moment, steadfastly purpose 10 lead
new life. But if these men find favor in
the eyes of their respective women, il is
not for their pretty manners, nor their
courage, nor their generosity, nor their
pure-mndedness. The women are not re-
PEELED by their vices: that is all. They
are not attracted by their lately assumed
virtues. Why should they be? They are
not courageous, nor generous, nor espe-
cially pure minded themselves; and. as for
their pretty maEners-perhaps their maids
or their children could tell you something
about those that would astonish you not a.
little
Evening star., 1896-02-08

shape like an hourglass the two of them;
two huge sleeves, each in itself like a big
cape of black velvet with sable or box
trimming and then for the body of the
garment ard for the big undersleeves a
brocade bearing upon soft, pale green
ground huge figures in black There are
black feur-de-lis nearly foot tall, black
arabeSques like deer's horns, circles, ovals,
crescents. Down the front runs a wide
stole of black velvet with fluffy trimming
of the same regal fur A tall and queen
~ woman looks well in such wrap, but
less commanding figure would be better
| housed in something less violent.
For an opera wrap of lighter weight
there is something quite to the wrist, sthe
inner edge being sewn fast to the tiny body
OF the wrap, whose front is mere corse-
let of white embroidery upon black velvet,
with ribbon edges knotted at the waist
and hanging well below it, The jacket back
is short and close fitting.
dancing skirts are mercifully short, and
with them are worn ballet underskirts
quite as long, with profusion of founces
of fluffy lace. The skirts are apt to be
pleated on the hips, but there is no abso-
lutte rule; and trimming is still barred, in
most cases, below the corsage.
Scarlet velvet, ermine and diamonds;
purple silk in princess shape with point
lace upon tie square corsage opening and
sweeping train; pearl gray satin skirt
with green chiffon bodice, green shoes and
emeraldS; these are combinations which
which would reconcile one to the edict that
SKIRT must De plain Ihe nneSt enectS
are after all, produced with sweeping lines
in form, with solid masses in color.
In tea gowns there is certainly variety
Black accordion plaits in extremely thin
silk with yoke and straps of jet and chiffon
sleeves; white Zenona with big white chiffon
sleeves, Medici collar and huge white fur
epaulets; pale blue silk with more than a
touch of bright red; orange yellow with
black. are presentable "permutations and
combinations"
There is chorus which says or sings
that sleeves must be smaller; there is one
which repeats within the year trimmed
skirts will certainly be worn.
The infinite varieties of ribbons makes
the trimming of gowns an easy task. Plain
ribbon Is almost outvoted at the polls Of
feminine favor by shot, moire, Dresden and
China ribbons.
Shopping for spring and even summer
gowns is now in progress, Lent being so
convenient an opportunity for making up.
Flowered silk and printed velvet appeal
to the prevalent taste for brilliant color.
Dotted muslin will be in favor during the
coming season for little girls dresses
Black Is very smart color and black and
white striped velvet is put to myriad of
uses.
Linens, ducks and g:nghams for summer
use will all be cool and light in tint and
texture. ELLEN OSBORN.
Evening star., 1896-02-08

shaped, and are decorated with jet or
jewels according to ones patience and
length of purse.
So much for the bonnet that is entirely
home made. Not many women would be
satisfied with such simple headgear. The
eled frame. This will not cost more than
$l5O or $500. An aigrette can be bought
for s1.I5. and velvet enough foF few loops
and ends will not cost more than 75 cents.
for really handsome bennete The velvet
loops should be wired and set parallel to
the face at about the middle Of the crown
of the head. The ends rof velvet can be
of the knot of hair. There is always
something to define the1 coiffHre, whether
the bonnet be bit of jet or a Tam
O'Shanter hat.
Evening star., 1896-02-08

in front with an agrette standing up be-
tween them. Anybody can have a bonnet
like this, and therefore it has become SO
common that it is undesirable. However,
1t is better than broad-brimmed hat. ''
Another simply constructed bonnet that
will do very well for an unpretentious
mortal is made Of four simulated loops Of
velvet They look like pair of miniature
double-bladed canoe paddles, crossed at an
angle of thirty degrees, with jet or jew
eled buckle at the point of juncture. This
may be set as far back on the head as IS
becoming. and fastened in place by a
couple of hairpins. The velvet loops or
paddles are sometimes diamond or leaf
Evening star., 1896-02-08
ECONOMY IN BONNETs.

SuEgestfOns us to How These Dainties
Can He Made.
Evening bonnets are not such impossible
luXuries as many people think. To be sure,
II woman depends entirely upon her mil
liner for the bit of finery which has been
the cause of so many domestic upheavals,
she might as well rule it out of her band
box, and go bareheaded to the opera, un-
less she is prepared to brave bill OF sew
eral guineas. But if one have a little nat
ural taste and deftness, coupled with a fac
ulty Of close observation, the milliner's bill
Evening star., 1896-02-08

need no longer be source of domestic in
felicity The prottlest bonnets are nearly
always the simplest, and when one really
settles down to analyZe the impertinent
little topknots there isn't much Of any,
thing to them but fluff and a loop or two Of
velvet. Whether the bonnet is becomiEg e
or not depends upon the angle at which the
loops are set.
The easiest bonnet to make is the one
with straight band around the crown OF
the head. 1t is the shape Of a circle comb
set on top Of the head. II is wound with
satin or ribbon and has two loops Of velvet
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Some Practical Hints to Unsophis-
ticated Debutantes.
LEARNED BY EIPERIEN C E
What to Do or Not to Do to Make
Smooth Sailing.
A PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATION
Written for The Evening Star.

HAVE s P E N T A
large portion of sew
eral gay seasons in
observing the ways,
follies and mistakes
of that hapless and
much-enduring body
of persons known as
debutantes, and have
arrived at the conclu-
sion that they need
advice as much as
they need assurance.
And no one is better
fitted to give advice
Evening star., 1896-02-08

ming is of black tips, white ospreys and
rosettes of white velvet, all pointing for
ward except where longer plumes rise at
the back.
And another would be almost Quaker-like
"a coal scuttle bonnet with gathered
crown, and curved brim of dove colored
velvet-but for the snowy trimming of
black Dlumes and white violets and the
glitteTing star of paste brilliants.
Still of hats, perhaps the favorite toque
is formed by gathered folds of crinkled
velvet, thrust well back upon the head
and with an aigrette rising from the folds
at the rear. Much more rare is form
have seen, wherein the edge of toque is
made of plated white ribbon edged with
black. three of the plaits themselves plait-
ed to form a band of mingling disappear
ing and reappearing black and white bands
quite about the head. The crown is filed
in with polka dot silk, the upright bows
are the same and a huge white satin
rosette nestles at the back.
Enough of hats? Let me only add some
thing utterly different and expensive
enough to be pretty; 4 toque of accordion
pleated gauze. heavily jetted, decked with
pink and black, shaded and huge black
osprey. With this is worn a collarette of
Evening star., 1896-02-08

often trimmed quite in harmony with gown
and cloak, so that the milliner must be, as
well, furrier and martuamaker.
Return to the peacock plume. for
'tfrstly' Take a toque of peacock green
velvet. with green ribbon caught fanwisa
on the front with a silver buckle. A tall
black and white aigrette is part of the
trimming anG two sable tails keep X COM
pany. More brilliant fans are covered over
with small peacock's eyes, the brim pre-
senting the sheen of the peacock's breast
head and neck brooding over this strange
world.
The Jam pot hat may be fixture for
the early spring. 1t ought not to be trim
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Not Very Consistent.

From Pearson's Weekly.
IF you don't see what you want, ask for
it, is the sign displayed over a grocer's
counter. And when a man went in and
asked payment on bill that had been
running for six months he was shown out
through the front door. He is now of the
opinion that grocers are not consistent.
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Not i'm Style.

From the Chicago Post.
THAT was a pretty little bonnet that Mrs.
Blank wore at the reception" he said.
"Prettyv" she exclaimed. why, it was
in outrageous taste"
What was the matter with it?'
1T was large enough to be seen with the
naked eye"
Evening star., 1896-02-08

The EQUALITY OF WOMAl
THE INTELLECTUAL EVE
Written for The Evening Star.

I1H ALI L n "A L
has been said recent
ly for and against
the Woman's Bible,
the book has been
given no opportunity
to speak for itself in
public. This is doubt
less because 1t has
not yet arrived in
Washington. Though
other quite as garish
specimens Cf deca-
dent literature are to
be found on cur book
Evening star., 1896-02-08
A Day Well Spent.

"A Duy WeH EpeHt.
IF We sit down at set of sun,
And count the things that we have done,
And counting find
One self-denying act, one word
That eased the heart of him who heard;
One glance NEST kind,
That fell like sunshine where 1t went,
Then we may count that day well spent.
But IL, through all the livelopg day,
We've eased no heart by yea or nay;
:. If through it all
We've done no thing that we can trace
That brought the sunshine to a face;
No act most small,
mat helped some soul, and nothing cost,
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Why She Objected.

From Truth.
my lips are sore, but camphor ice
I will not have said May.
"Of course 'twould cure them. but, you sex
Twould keep the chaps away
Evening star., 1896-02-08

ABOUT HEADWEAR
Hats, Tcques and Bonnets in the
Latest Partisan Styles.
CALLED JAM POTS and PICTURE RATS
Some Hints in Regard to Summer
Fashions.
7 E A G WN T A L K
CALLED JAM POTS and PICTURE RATS
T E A G WN T A L K
"1O Q U E S !

20 Q U z S A r E
smaller, so runs the
word from Paris;
b o n n e t 8 are not
smaller, mainly be-
cause it would be
impossible; the reign
of the ostrich plume
is unbroken; peacock
shades in ribbons and
velvetS are high in
favor; applique work
ed in lace designs IS
in good demand for
trimmings; hats are
Evening star., 1896-02-08
Shades of Newton!

From Fliegende Batter
Tommy-"Papa, there is large black
bug on the ceiling
Professor very busy)-"step on it and
leave nae alone"
Evening star., 1896-02-08

pink silk covered with jetted gauze and the
cloak must be mostly black, but may be
partly pink.
The cloakmakers rather resent IL when
the nrilliner presumes to prescribe what
sort Of wrap must be worn to set of
particular confection; and the cloakmak-
ers resentment takes the form Of design
ing garments of wonderful eccentricity to
Evening star., 1896-02-08

counters, the Woman's Bible is to be oh
tanned only by special order. Do not un-
derstand from this that it is improper
reading. Dear. no! The young person might
safely be intrusted with 1T, for it is not
only expurgated Of great many en-
barrassing features of the masculine Bible,
but it is peculiarly instructive-a new reve-
lation, a divinely ordained revelation con-
tanning evidence beyond the power CT any
man TO dispute that the new woman is
illogical, inconsistent, irreverent, irrespon-
sible, and above all, ill-natured as sick
baby that won't take its bottle, will hit
its nurse, and makes ugly faces at the
The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1896-03-02

not concentrated on too small an area L
sometimes use hardwood ashes, unieaChGI'
two parts to one q halnrtt' az eour nf
kafn9t The ashes cost me nothinS ana
the freight on sufficient quantity Oh lnu-
riate of potash being four times more cDii
contracted is much less than on KANT.
Freight from New Orleans here ana1 ,u
10 more than the first cost OF the ler'ii'zci'
I used prize acre o,o - 4, -
Acid phosphate ...... ...... GU poun1s
Murl1te or d pG.ash 49, " -. 500 pounds
mixed this thoroughly in the neld in
wagons. .. .ia.
ten feet apart each way gives the sreatSSt
number of melons to the acre anu WE'VE
feet apart each way the greatest alhouhl ~
have found that sixteen feet each way
will give the greatest number OF w.
large melons than any otner dlStdiic' s-llu
/ have tried ten feet, twelve Zee, 4o n,i,,
twenty tween ysg fcet = '''n &c.,
wav and Jumbo cross ten feet-ohc-ils'il
i acre of each. My idea was TO raise as ll.'iiS
large melons aus possible and as many IN
number az possible. Lay eff VOWS WIN oiat
hrrow each way the desired dls'lll e api. ,
txteon feet suits me rms VII nt,, -
ground into squares. DIVIDE the aitOliS
rertiIiZcr by the number Of squares anu
have the amount for each hiu. 10
the trouble of we'Shlns +dcu I'M I'M
some vessel that VIII eNactiy loiu
amount and put the fertilizer on
asst putting more in the niddle thah
"a tho sides / next bed up. running
lpIow nine or ten inches deep, taki9G
To mark cauter of hills on ohlStle
81 lota sides of the patch 50 as not
$50 tho center OF the hili when 80
#lant. Plant across tine rows from ono
i, 20 the other and II coufs. YOU piailt
Tao center Of the square laid oil every
#a. Tire turnplows We use ntEe WI Nrl,, my
.tu clear over ground recently bipNSH,
80 ,-,thfr edges Il IN thereby thorough My
mixing tine fertilizer with the SOL one 70
feigEt iucncs deep.
Win sixtceu feet apart each way !
have grown the Jumbo. not Single hItiDh
from the first crop That would UP Tic
beam mt less than fifty pounds.
do rot like small melons. otner peopio
can grow them i want 10 grow a melon
The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1896-03-02
Bulletin No. 31-Gcorgia Experiment
Station.

This pamphlet OF th.rty-two pages IS
n0w ready for distribution. and a copy Niii
r. sent 10 any ore actually snEaE"i "a
farming vino requests che same April
cation should - made To ".ienrsiA EAi'si.-
meur station. Experiment. Ca
We have suace for only . few eNtr-Atis
from this bulletin. and they are EiNen ilr
tuc benefit uf these who may go u atte'N
a COPY can - presumed
on - the most Important factors W
securing a good yield 81 cotton = tiN' A.
fartIi-iu-- with . properly b-iausvd itrt-l-
fzer The general fertilizer test as i.
tailedt confirm iu the main the e'i'ti go =
that have h.-~ltnfnr- hcsn stnnoilic'i 'N p
gard % tha relative proportion in -i+sh 90"
thr.e .alualIe elements SHOUTED enter .f."
tho clmpes itiuu 81 "a fsrtiA-1rr isf e''''''
T-als proportion IS STATED g. follows
ptaspicrie acid tlyf 3 - Ea-r i-.'is
1 r.aa~t- ult-aae.u. part ana N"iitA ~ t'''--
r. q fertilizer thnt would sasl'sls z"-
Av.-1re phosphorus acid : = - --iA r. ~
POTASH .. .- --s-- --- en-. q .-
Iu formula Nc. g. iu iiuiias.n No &. 'stme
- formula Nu- = IE N.-hH nf ir'f,-.-
rsrr. as corrected iu i--ue NJ lah--latE l.ti1
49,. r-.r-.-f#-r az s-.ara sisu.- to sarn'z tn-
above r.ar.te proportions er tNe .i.'r .-
First. a.a u,1aeE..l4-t. I-Hn f.a4.t.s~-
f-1-.... r.lr-atH of pItas. E. -t Ia''i.i- t-.r .,
...-t.u r.l -u palrls Ea-e would ANA
EE.-
Average rlo-raarir acid. y 500 q g.
Nrrl--.a.- - ----'' p- e.
I-stesd 80 u.a-.lt- ~ potash. fe pounds
rarv b. eut-.z.sl-s.l- Ealal-. are ssotus- d
am - r.ts.- ef .l.. -HffHfl u...ll- 80 pounds
r.- le asf r-a rrur.s cf cotton 81. q
ANY desired quantity ~ tut u- stable fHs.i--
se rte IS. r#r varr sHe .tsHe formula
v.-e.ut u.-..-lr.Is ..-aH--a- tae relative
a.
The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1896-03-02
PRIZE MELON CROP.
Mr.. Y. Green, Of Wolfe City, Texas,
Gives His Experience.
A TREMENDOUS MELON YIELD
He Raised 1,193 Melons on One Acre
the Fifty Largest Weighed Ion
and a Ealf.

I was born in Conecuh county, Aia3ama,
IN October 1868. AS early as | can rcneH-
her my fathers melon patch possesses n
peculiar charm with which no otn. hoy ri
of the farm could compare. l was ,! me
~ on hand during the prcparat isi liz ioae
ground, the planting aud most IN thank
scquent workings, and was | have re-
first to find a bloom or H-tters askin
siduously keeping from poinhey come
for fear it would drop O. l receIN'
and uubellncWn 10 my 70 - ~
was the hrst TO get nrarden q.
patch and nearly as cfts,, so mu
My first experiment wte were
this, to rpcn tho melon, est 60
cutting off the Vnc so ttst, -
Inc iu'l"h iiP1led ~ = bout T.
experiment on tine whole oil At $
tory 10 me. My second ohill w
ten years old. was to Ecio oth'
the patch This. too. waalrch,
Tiers EnowIe3ge. ! lCajet = nal
shotgun with fat meat inste' recor
secretcd myself with guu atlogu
middle of the pitch. Judging res
a party OF thieves got cut OF
% O'Clock, / nearly frightened
their wits. / Thea slipped the rk
In i,s place, one barrel only hay. ,,t1ten
discharged. and went TO bed. Nv. Gay
The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1896-03-02
Watching the Crop.

The season OF 1885 was the liISt year
was ever bothered hy the tplease namcl,
a little striped, some fcw spotted, bugs
that suck the sap of the plants. While
plants are small have known these bugs
10 KIN every one in q hon in few hours.
] sprayed with coal OH emulsion, paris
green ana sUng shot, an iusecticide, none
of which seemed 20 DO amy good. Goins
over the patch soon every morning and
killing an YOU find is efficient, but will
have 10 be repeated every day while the
bugs are bad, til tho plants have begun
60 run, when they are generally strong
enough TO take carc of themselves. An
other efficient way, bat scarcely less trou-
hiCsome. is 10 buy cheese cloth, fold and
sew up like a sack the long way You will
then have sack, ends being omen, as
long as the cloth you have bought. cut
this into small sacks about nine inches
long. stick four sticks around hill, tacn
-lip sacks around the sticks, leaving Ton
open. This will protect plants from The
wind. ami they VIII grow very fast No
bugs ever went into any OF these inclo-
sures fer mo. Why. l do not know, unless
they cannot see under them while fyi'g.
In this country the crow stands in the
The Atlanta constitution. [volume] (Atlanta, Ga.) 1885-19??, 1896-03-02
Fertilizer Formulas.

= T. Odom. Drayton. ia: | have
picc. Of land that " IA 600 pounds of com
imcrciaI ftrtii ger usually produces from
200 10 2.t0 pounds OF seed cotton to the
acre ] think / can increase its produc-
ttous bv using "A compost. VIII you please
llK,. "a formula that will raise its standard
or anuble its production.
= Please give the analysis OF cotton
seed
g. Does cottonsecd meal contain more
potash and ammonia tlau the cotton seed
iu their natural Statc2
J. We gave a long editorial in tho weekly
Of the 10Th instant. aud q correction OF
one error therein contained. in the issue
Of the l-th Please refer 20 g. We could
not give "a formula that We would suarssn-
tee 90 double the production ami do IL
probably. As ritie formula No.
would increase the yield by one and
half 90 Two pounds Of seed cotton for eight
pounds 81 acid phosphate in tho case APP
~ "a up TO n dose OF 800 10 go pounds OF
the acid per acre. As the amount OF
fertilizer IS Increased the rate Of increased
WELD Of cotton does not keep pace with
IL. aad beyond 6l0 or 100 pounds il is doubt
fgl II ID would pay.
g. Cotton meal contains about sos per
cent OF phosphoric acid, ia per cent OF
potash, per cent OF nitrogen. Cotton
seed contains about loo per cent OF phos-
p,oric ac.d, rs per cent Of potash and
3 Uer cent of nitrogen.
{. Answered in -