The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-09-17
ideas for Qdaornen.

the most popular model for a promenade
hat. The fur hat is again fashionable. II
appears in imperial Russian sable and in
fine baby lamb or caracal. sometimes
called by milliners MORE ~astrakhan."
These fur hats are trimmed with rich,
creamy laces and twists and bows OF
white MORE antique and gorgeous-hued
velvet; and in place of ostrich tips there
Is often at the side a cluster of huffy
sable tails wired SO that they stand up
right. These combinations might seem
Homogeneous if they were not handled by
such artists in millinery as Caroline Ri
beau and Virot.
The ~predominance of that most stately
fabric, MORE antique velvet and satin
antique, IS noteworthy; and the stiff ana
splendid tinsel embroideries that suggest
the ceremonial robes of the Greek Church
are now much used In elaborate millinery
All the chief Partisan milliners send over
the most fascinating capes of fur and
MORE antique or Of some other rich fabric
and a huge directoire mun to wear with
these elaborate hats. These capes are only
a little scantier than those worn last Win
ter. but they are not so bouffant, being
held quite close to the figure, back and
front, in large stiff box-pleats and in knife
pleatings. A few of these graceful little
wraps have tablike fronts. but they are
the exception.
The predominant colors Of the season
are the natural vegetable hues used by
Japanese dyers of silk. Japanese rose is
seen in japanese embroideries. japanese
1000 1--c~.19 ~1fo- o-d &, a
haps the most popular color of the season.
II is used with excellent effect in relief
with black. Women returning from Paris
display a little Of this color on their
black gowns. Sometimes 1t is merely used
as a lining TO the scanty little ripple coll
lar and cuffs that soften the edge of the
high stock collar and the long, close,
wrinkled sleeves. These sleeves fall over
the hand, and are extended into an ag-
gressive but diminished puff half way
above the elbow. A combination Of green
satin antique and black MORE astrakhan
is shown in a wrap from Caroline Ribeau.
TIL yoke and high, Aaring, but slashed
collar was of the soft, close, black lamb,
which was as fine in wave as watered
silk; a wide knife-pleated fall of the green
satin antique completed the length Of the
wrap. 1t was lined with a chene silk in
delicate shades of green, and was an ex-
ception in this use of colored Innings.
White MORE antique is employed as the
lining for the majority of these elaborate
garments.
Large hats, with soft velvet crowns
and wide brims woven of chenille and silk
cord, completed by a %garniture of lace
and fur or plumes and lace; elaborate
Russian turbans Of fur and rich-hued
veivets and lace, n coronet-trfmmed
hats garnished with jet embroidery, are
all worn with these capes. There are
other onnet with the soft, waving brims
which are so generally becoming.
The multiplying of shapes is necessary
to suit the bonnets to the varied types of
the american face. The best milliners
adapting bonnets and hats to the indiyid-
ual; they do not attempt, as too many
dress-makers do, to fit all their custom
regard to the individual requirements of
face and figure. The new coronet-brim-
med ~bonnets, which are called tdirec-
copied from fnansa the eh9 jew seaPe ~k K DgSS6ai6lyy
worn by Russian women, are not likely
TO be becoming. The style demands facial
utilities uOl common among our Spr1glt-
~ piquant-featured American Beauties.
Beetroot red Is a new red of somewhat
prlcky tones, but one thai harmonizes
better than terra Gotta with the tints
various tones, without the J-uxtaposition
or any relieving a Royal purple.
which Is again revived, is used in many
tones, the lighter shading into violet. The
popular mixture of royal blue and green
Is shown in braids of felt and silk cord
and other materials. Black is more often
smpio yer IN millinery \ any color, and
antique than by any bright color; but
there are many hats with huge soft
crowns OF japanese green or japanese
with standing sable tails. trim some Of
these hats. Other hats with rather wide
stright orims and low, fiat crowns are
finished with a cluster of six or seven
large piumes catching up the brim at the
back, but nodding toward the from
a cluster OF silk roses, in conventional
color, or some similar ~trii>~.tng. is ar
ranged under the brim, so tnat the hat
may Mt properly over the hair.
-.
Tn revival of felt for general wear
seems assured. but the hat is no more
worn to harmonic in color with the COS
tune unless 1t is made of the same ma
teriaL It is the desire of French niiiin-
ers to introduce a hat in direct contrast
as a protest. against the trouble and loss
OF making hats from material provided
py the customer. The new felts are shown
%15 4A GIDle AIu 0En9r
coioFs, and then are trimmed with crushed
SIX roses, plumes and tips and velvet
IN the same tones. These monotone hats
are worn with tailor gowns. and are bv
no means as emphatic in effect. the col
oTs being subdued, harmonious shades.
There are wide ties of MORE ribbon on
some OF the large hats, but marrow ties
of velvet ribbon will be used on bonnets
and will be tied under the chin. Wide
nat strings are sometimes tied eccentrt-
cally under the ear.
Inc miliiners have sent over MANY fine
coliars Of the fiaring Medici shape, COM
Dlned with velvet and MORE, as well as
capes TO wear with bonnets and hats.
violets have taken a fresh lease of IA
yor. They are used on Russian hats of
fur with lace and velvet, and are fire.
querGtly combined with grapes for trim
ming purple hats. Green n violet or
royal purple Is a fashionable combination
of color.
The fckle tide of fashion has turned
away from the once m~uch-prized pure
white diamond to the colored varieties,
and as diamonds are, after all, only an
article of luxury, fashion to a great ex-
tent regulates their price; hence the
most precious brilliants are NOT worth
what they were before the De Beers and
kimberley mines began TO produce Al
rare intervals the exquisite coiored stones
which are now the rage.
1t must be remembered that these ara
not .sof color" diamonds-that is to saw
stones Of imperfect or cloudy color. On
the contrary, when perfect thew are II
the purest water, and If they are Of any
respectable size they are exceedingly
valuable. In the diamond room al Re
Beers there is a velvet lined case which
contains about a dozen diamonds Of ali
rTiore from %ha nl1rae4 u-t<k-+