Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-01-30
i'm FAIR WONAN'S REALM
The Tailor-made Girl "Not in
1t" at Present.
SHE MAY RETURN NEXT SPRING
The Devotee of FrillS and
FurbeloWs is Queen.
Gay Goods for Easter CORNERSTONE Stun
ming BeIts-Chinchiila the Correct Fur
Increasing Popularity OF the Coilar-The
Latest Novelty in Hats.


Latest Novelty in Hats.
New York. Jan. 25.-To Mrs. j.
Rodney Clayton Dear Louise: The
tailor made girl ia mot in it, evil
identity, fact walk up Fifth avenue
any bright afternoon will illustrate.
The maid devoted TO frills and furbe-
lows is the queen of the hour The
craze for trimmings, laces and gilt is
paramount. But | predict the return
of the tailor-girl' with spring-not
that she will reign supreme, for the
modistes show gayer goods than ever
for Easter gowns, but there are always
some women who, knowing the charm
of well-made, good fitting tailor
gown, will cling to it when they can
and the light weight cloths and serges
shown for spring and summer wear
are especially adapted to the tailor's
cut. Every woman should have at
least one gown of this sort. II fills up
gap in wardrobe nothing else will.
A tailor made gown does not mean a
cloth gown made severely plain and
copied from an English fashion book
by your home or French dressmaker.
1t must be cut by tailor to give it
that unmistakable air that only he can
give. The cut and the pressing are all
important Expressive? Yes, and no,
my dear Louise. You can go TO
well-know swell firm md pay them
800, but there are many tailors who
cut and fit garment for $50, you fur
nishing the cloth and Innings. Then
again you can have the skirt made at
home, or by a dressmaker you know
to be reliable, for small amount and
take it to the tailor who must make
your jacket or waist and have him
press it, Never wear an elaborately.
trimmed hat with your tailor gown.
1t takes all the style away from it. II
you can wear soft felt Alpine hat,
1t is in best style, but a severely
trimmed turban or later sailor hat is
always in good taste. FeathersH Never
A Broadway tailor tells me he predicts
the Norfolk jacket as the leading mode
for tailor made gowns this spring.
This is always becoming to slight
figures and will make a use for the
belt so popular now.
| saw several stunning belts to-day
going home with an ou fit for Ponce
de Leon belle. One oi light leather,
to use with a tan cloth gown, was
studded with brass and nickel studs
after the manner of the mastiiws collar.
1t fastened with brass buckle and
was altogether swagger. Another
made to be worn with blue serge
gown. and probably with the few blue
madras shirtwaists caught glimpse
of, was of dark blue leather, finished
dull, with brass studs in the same
manner as the other one. This one
fastened with brass hook and paddock.
fac simile of the before. mentioned
GnOfd pDllur ,.hi, nd
likely to excite admiration in the fair
sex. So fascinating were all the belts
that | ordered copies with reckless
abandon. The newest belts go to ex
treme. They are either very narrow
or very wide.
One is led to wonder in viewing any
social affair where the women wear
their wraps where all this beautiful
chinchilla comes from. 1t is beyond
doubt the correct fur this season. The
best skins come from Chill and the
difficulty of obtaining them, combined
with the fact that the little animal is
so small as to make great many Of
them necessary for the fashioning of
single garment, accounts for the high
price asked.
When will the day of the collar bo
over? 1t seems to be gaining ground
each hour and its reign is supreme.
The neck adornment of gown makes
or mars its effects according TO its
eccentricity. Fur is extensively used
in the new collafs. A velvet stock
may show little ridge of fur in the
centre and be fastened at the back
with two or three fur tails instead of
the favorite bow. Fur heads appear
on many of the new collars and occa-
sionally the tiny heads alternates with
lace rosettes. A dainty collar is
stock of Dresden ribbon with little
tabs of lace trimmed mousseline de sole |
falling over il. A clever little woman
whose purse is not very full made hor-
self stock collar of her favorite shade
of velvet, and with this she has as
many different styles as her ingenuity
can devise. A band of lace incrusted
with mock jewels, laid on the
stock, makes dressy addition to
her reception gown. Bits of
ostrich feathers, sewed on here and
there, make it a stunning affair for
theatre party. The flower collar is
much noticed now A collar of scarlet
gown. y stock of ribbon or velvet is
made and the flowers sewed on, alter
mating with loops of velvet or lace
The hat | oftenest see on the best
gowned women here IS the broad Tam
O'Shanter crowned French hat The
Tam" is of velvet or figured silk and
in many cases is caught up in the front
with buckle. These hats have straight
brims in a color which contrasts with
the crown. The latest novelty is the
flat, broad turban of changeable braided
felt, with only a quill for adorn-
ment. These will be worn late in the
spring and in fact all summer, with
tailor-made gowns and shirtwaists, by
women who effect English styles.