The San Francisco call., 1896-09-20

composed OF it is worthy of serious con
sideration.
Most of US have been attending tbe
openings this week, and 1 have been espe-
cially interested in the displays of hats
and bonnets. Some were good, some were
bad and several Indifferent. However, 1
felt amply repaid for my expenditure of
time after investigating twenty or more of
the most chic of chapeaux that ever left
Paris. Every one showed that they had
been selected with the greatest care by
woman possessed of rare Judgment and
taste, who certainly spent no less than
two months in the gay capital choosing
novelties that will delight even her most
IastldlouS customers. You must see a
frencn hat to apr eciate fully its charms,
as even the most successful word-painters
laII far short of the mark, but 1 will at
tempt the description of few of the mill
ilnery triumphs, each of which found
sore temptation.
one love of a bonnet recalled modified
colonial shape-that is to say, it has a
small orlm and dear little crown about
three inches high. 1t is composed of a
really beautiful shade of rose pink velvet,
narrow edglng of black ostrich feathers
surround it, and three or so good tips
stand up at one side. The long pink taf-
! feta strings are edged with narrow black
Vaienciennes lace. Nearlt reposed in a SUBJ
stantial box bonnet of canary velvet all
wrinkled and crinkled in a marvellous
manner, and every wrinkle and crinkIe
was edged with real Valenciennes lace by
creamy line. A touch of black gave it a
certain indescribable air quite delightful
and charming, and utterly different in
every respect was a third, which showed
how cleverly velvet, chenille and straw
can be handled. In it were blended two
shades of heliotrope, velvet with a touch
OF white and some handsome jet.
An apricot velvet toque was much ad-
mired by almost every one, the rich vel
vet and the truly exquisite-shaded roses
with their leaves will find a proper
resting place, 1 trust, on the head OF q
beautiful brunette with a small oval face.
Another toque of quite a new shade of
crushed strawberry velvet has a beaver
crown, roses matching the velvet, and
roses of a green shade are placed here and
there on the hat with excellent effect.
Chenille and straw are in high favor for
autumn wear and may be seen this winter
as well. A hat having brim of most
picturesque preenish straw mingled with
chenille of darker shade has crown of
fswn-colored felt. At either side are
punches of black bird of paradise feathers
and here and there a small bow of black
watered MORE ribbon.
1 lost my heart to this creation until
l realized the charms OF black one, in
which straw and chenille were mingled,
and the very simple trimming consisted
of outstanding loops of white moire rib
bons with quillings on the edges of black
mousseline de sole, but all put together
in certain way that but few miliners
understand. 1 almost forgot to mention
: unique bonnet which has two little crowns
of lovely oriental mbroidery, done on
| yellowish silk. The crowns are no less
odd than the rest OF the shape, which
looks like two black velvet triangles.
Black velvet and ostrich feathers also
enter into its complicated composition.
Some excellent English hats have also
arrived, which commend themselves
highly for morning wear. MARCELLA.