The San Francisco call., 1896-09-13

several weeks, but already the discussion
OF evening gowns is becoming an interest
ing topic OF conversation, especially to the
debutantes, who will, almost without ex-
ception, dance their first cotilIon garbed
IN snowy white, and wise is the maiden
who wears nothing else during her first
season, provided, of course, that 1t is be-
coming to her style of beauty. The great
European dressmakers intend to make
tulle over white satin again the most
fashionable combination, and one youth
ful belle will wear tulle and satin at her
first dance, and mousseIine de sole over the
palest willow-green satin at her next, and
besides has selected several quite lovely
light figured silks which are to be made
up with charming simplicity for less
ceremonious functions.
Time and thought must both be de-
voted ungrudgingly to the successful
evolution OF the debutantes wardrobe.
even when ducats are plentiful, and it is a
great mistake to postpone until the last
minute the choice of frocks, etc., for.
unless the young girl is unusually strong,
she cannot be expected to dance until the
wee small hours with pleasure if the
greater part of the day has been spent
having her gown tried on.' The thought
ful mother will see TO all the little things
that are such necessary adiuncts to q
satisfactory toilette, for her dainty bud
does not have TO compete with debutantes
alone, she must also show the seasoned
bellies that she can hold her own and is
not to be overlooked. There would be
fewer sad little wall-fowers were all neces-
sary points of success more carefully and
deliberately studied, for the sweetest,
brightest and most beautiful bud ever seen
Is very likely to blush unseen if her gown
is fail ure and her hair not arranged to
the best advantage. Many teas Will be
given to introduce our future bellies, al
though such an authority as Julien Sar-
dou declares that to launch girl al a tea
is sufficient to mark her a social failure,
and advocates instead dinners, even if
small ones only are given. Her opinions
are held by many sensible mothers who
prefer that their daughters should thus
quietly make their social entree among
their special friends. But to return to
evening gowns. One for dear little ma
tron is well worthy of our admiration
The skirt is of a heavy blush rose duchesse
satin, and has two panels of pleated
chiffon confined at the foot by bands of
gold passementerie. They are completed by
full ruching of chiffon. Chiffon grace
fully drapes the bodice, the handsome
passementerie being introduced here and
there. Two scarfs of chiffon lie in grace
full fat bows on the shoulders, over which
are carried exquisite clusters of damask
roses. Pink taffeta lines the entire gown
Alternate rufies of pinked silk and lace
make the inside almost as fetching as the
exterior.
That matrons understand the charms of
fuTle he Il.
from Newport correspondent these few
lines concerning tulIe narvels:
Such wondrous work is done in tullel What
beauty OF design and what effects in this new
embroidery in jewels which we are now so IA
miliar with, done those web-hke transpa-
Teneies. Oyerdresses are like fairy things
sparkling and glittering as if the wand had
but just touched them. There is danger in
OVERRIDING, however, and mingIing too many
colors in stones as wen as in anything else.
1t is safer 10 keep design in jewels as near to
one color, supported largely by diamonds as
it is possible TO do. AS an instance, the superb
gown worn by Mrs. Ms at one of the big
balls built OF white satin duchesse, with over
dress OF white tulle, hanging apart below the
knee. The design was carried out in lace
pattern with rubies and diamonds, the latter
defining scrolls and arabesques, the former
garlands and flowers; satin pointed decollete
corsage, with designed empiecement, artisti-
cally forming part OF the OOQlce, ana the
sleeves merely wings of tulle, held together
by scintillating jeweled band over the bare
arms. With diamond tiara and necklace no
sun at midday could be more brilliant than a
toilette Of this kind in the evening.
Quite stunning is the Redfern gown l
present this week and it may be said to
fill long-felt want, for, while the skirt
and bodice are of soft black well wearing
material, the panels and tabs are of red
moire. Upon this moire design OF black
braid and cords is worked over a thin
white cloth, which, in its turn, is cut
away, and thus leaves merely the most
dainty design of white with black border
ing wherever the pattern is applied. The
tabs and every edge of the black cloth that
lie upon the red MORE are bound with a
tight, narrow hem Of real Persian lamb,
and buttons of black and white are en-
ployed to complete this eminently useful
as we'll as beautiful gown. This toilette
will be sure to obtain great favor, for the
correct shade of the Danish national red
has been employed, and this is becom-
ing note of color to most women.
The French conception can be worn in
such places as San Mateo until almost the
end of next month; the skirt of silver-gray
cloth is adorned with scallops and lovers
knots on white lace. The zouaye pocket Is
OF a truly beautiful shade of pinkish
amethyst taffeta beantified with frills of
embroidery, and three Strass buttons
set in silver appear on each sleeve The
blouse OF white satin is yelled with NOUS
seline de sole.
The sleeves should be noted and the
smart bow with the buckle in the center
The hat is a model which will be much
affected all autumn.
Very sensible is the mountaineering COS
tune for long pants, being made of either
cheviot or unshrinkable cloth set off with
revers, cuffs, belt and turned-down collar
in blue or black velvet. Ornamental but
tons appear on the front box pleat and on
that of the left hip, which is apparently
raised 10 disnlaY skirt in blue skirtinp