The herald., 1896-02-23
&ssx1ssE' 4
" PARIS. y


Paris is all a-shimmer. The sun rides
In the heavens, and on earth there is sucn
reign of glitter as history fails to record
as ever having taken place in the previous
| history of clothes. In the pauses between
some dull after-dinner speaking at a pan
quet'' the other night, CoQuelin said, quite
seriously. after looking around upon the
toilets of the women present: isn't IL
theatrical?" And fashion has surely pe-
come tremendously theatrical.
cIoth Of gold and precious stones are ell
bowed right and left by paste and shams
of various other sorts. Real gems are IN
great favor for Jewels for necks and arms.
but for gowns and millinery. coiffure orna-
ments and the like, the spangles wnich tor,
merly were the property of the stage ana
circus ring are sparkling riotously all over
smart society women. The effects are strik-
ingly radiant and splendid. but very mar
row line divides the permissible from tne
outre, and there's great danger OIL getting
upon the wrong side of that line
| At the dinner | speak OF a woman VINO
was beautiful enough to know better mad
allowed her dressmaker to spoil a superb
dress of ivory satin and apple green VeiVet
and rose point by draping the bodice with
so much spangle wrought tulle that the
| superior beauty of the satin. lace and
velvet was quite eclipsed. Nine. Pelletier-
| Vidal, on the other hand, showed me
gown yesterday, If which l will send you a
sketch, in which nice sense of discrimina-
! ton prevailed. 1t was a blue velvet, with
deep, soft, rich tones, made with superla-
| lively plain skirt, and a curious bodice
| From the back the bodice looked to be a
straight sacque untitled. In the front it
| hung loose as far as the first bias lines
| thence the fronts were fitted to the figure
for the width of one dart, and cut away
to show a waistcoat in the form of jersey
fitting under bodice. This was of black
| satin, picked out with leaves of gold made
with minute spangles The skirt of the
| dress and the coat throughout were lined
with pale gold silk, and there was just
enough gold all told to produce an inde-
ecribably rich effect, with no suggestion of
tawdriness. The small round hat was OF
blue ribbon and black chenille plated, with
black satin bows, agrette and a gola
buckle. ,~... x.
Buttons are omnipresent. Nine Eames
story wore an attractive gown the other
morning at a private view that is worthy
OF description fer it's distinction and sim
plicity-not always found together. The
material was a gauffer crepe in black, made
with skirt and blouse; the skirt opened
down the left side over a puckered panel,
very narrow, IF black mousseline de sole
lined with white, the lower edges being
held by some dull j"t buttons. The sleeves
were cut oddly the mass of plaits being
held by smooth plat carried past the arm
seam onto the shoulder. The blouse was
smooth across the front and full on the
sides and under the arms, the effect being
to quite hide the arm seam, the disposal of
the trimming being such as to produce a
double breasted effect in front. The trim
ming was a narrow band of black niarabout,
which is suddenly coming into favor The
way In which the sleeves tlared over the
hands is especially liked by Partisan
women. The collar was abnormally high
and tri1e faring. The belt was
smooth strap of dull jetted cloth, Tapped
and fastened with a button. Jet buttons
are exempt from dissatisfaction If they are
handled carefully, but the steel and silver
and especially the gilt ones, need to be
prayed over and tended as carefully as an
infant If one hasn't maid, one had better
eschew them. for in this rustic scuttle life
one cant herself take time to twist each
one of several dozen buttons in tissue paper
every time gown is taL-n off.
Everything is glitterlng; buttons are
upon everything; 1eckwear is mountainous
and maddeningly expensive unless, again.
one has quick fingered, clever maid, or
Is herself past mistress and present master
OF the needle; everything is slashed to let
something else show through; and there is
rage for all the soft, fluffy, floating fab
rics, chiffons and tulles and mousseline
de soies, and all the thousand and one vari-
ations upon these Of course, all the airy
fairy-Lillian sort of stuffs are reserved for
evening wear, when it comes to gowns, but
for day wear they are fuffed about the
throat, or show as fans or fine flutings in
the slashings of velvet capes, etc. The
mousselne de sole gowns are mounted upon
silken robes, and instead of being lined
with silk are simply draped over it with
softer and more graceful effect.
Paquin has a pale blue mousselne de sole
that has the unusual features of a long
wide sash, and the pretty additions of some
violet flower garnitures. The mousseline
is draped over the white taffetas and the
bottom of the skirt, as you will see in the
sketch, is finished off with crushed band
This is of pale blue velvet with a white
lace edging at the top and bottom. The
sash is Of the velvet, and the bodice is of
the mousseline embroidered with violets
The puffed sleeves end in ruffles of lace
and the low corslge, which is lower on the
sides than just in front, shows an edging
Of lace. The tout ensemble is very charm
ing. because the airy effect has not been
spoiled by overlooking the gown with trim
ming.
Some Of the new silk muslins that show
al-over embroderies are made into Won
erfully pretty dancing frocks in accordion
plated models. Paqun has a gown under
| way for rich American matron sojournng
! here for few days on her way to Genoa.
1t is of black satin, made with flare skirt.
and coat bodice, the lc ter with a decided
basque after the manner of the Louis XIV
period; the waistcoat lis of white satin, show
/ ing below and above the waistline where
/ the black satin meets Ito make Mrs. IS
waist look more slender. Below it shows
as the lower edge of the waistcoat. Above
/ the meeting point of the black satin forms
there are wide revers of the white satin
turning away; over them are frill revers of
cream Bruges lace and down the middle
is wide plait Of the white satin, with a
number of very slender rhinestone buckles
/ Of course, there are lace frills about the
wrists. This same wealthy American has
0 penchant for lovely house furnishings, and
has ordered duplicated for her Murray Hill