davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning times., 1896-10-25

and white satires on society applied to
the paper tops, and quite as lovely are the
paper fans With marine scenes. These last
show the Outspread wings of some hig
white bird entirely covering the top, and
below, on a blue ground, wander out IL
troup OF fishing girls, fleet of white
yachts, or train Of swallows.
They are painted, Of course, on water
color paper, while the stately big fans
are still done on gauze. 1t is "a close
woven fabric, and whatever the scene may
be it covers nearly all the space. Lace is
now only introduced along the edges. as
a sort of frost-like frame to the charming
pictures of love-makinG. one and ali these
Gauze fans, that now often measure twenty
six inches across when open. are mounted
on plain polished pink pearl sticks.
From the waist they are meant to hang
by sort Of rosary OF gaily cut beads,
and one American maker of fans is mount
ing them on sticks of glass They are not
very practical, though exceedingly lovely.
especially when crescent Of white lace
is stitched over the crystal mounting
Spangling and miniatures, etc, are rightly
Considered far too frivolOusus ornamental
ton for big fauS, and on an occasion re-
quring stately cUstUming and bearing Euge
ostrich feather ones are invariably carried.
Just 4 cluster Of feathers on a single stick
is notIn good taste.
1t must now lie an open and slut fan,
of exactly eighteen broad. plain, pink
pearl sucks and eighteen selected snowy
: plumcS. From tip of plume, to jeweled
clasp Of stick, the fan ought to measure
twenty inches and be carried suspended
by tive delicate gold chains. attached to
gold band on tie right arm. Whatever
extra decoration is applied must be done
/ with ostrich tips, permitting three full
ones to overtop the rest, OF an aisrette
of item 70 fasten ON one of the guard sticks.
FANNY ENDERS.
The morning times., 1896-10-25

fashion, are deeply nOtched along the top.
Into the notches points OF white lace are
set, and the result is sturdiIy useful
but very beautiful little wind raiser.
Sometimes, too, in place OF W hite la &C. TUFTS
of ostrich tips, or clusters of white feather
frods are Inserted in the notchcS ana again
loose petaied white silk roses ill every one
of the open points in the black fan
Whatever else you do this season, tn lugh,
in selecting fan. make q choice of some
thing both startling and unique, not so
much Ill shape as III decoration. Pick out
n fan of which no one is likely to find n
counterpart. and that every woman VIII
crane her neck to examine when you open
II in her neichborhood in the thcatcr. Ec-
Centricties are not, Of course, i'll se.od taste,
and guard sticks. powdered with jewels.
or set Will. little'mrrors, have passed into
the limbo OF articles questionable, but you
can nave a fan with 4 row Of tiny silver
bells down the guard stick.
They are not really bells. hut Wee tubes
of silver. no larger than the inside lead
of a pencil, and attached to the guard
| stick by sIlkcn threads. Naturally when
the fan is waved about these clash together
with IA sweet metallic sound, like fairy
music. a fan of this kind will have perhaps
| only Il line OF smiling. grave Or fearful
| masGues, slung in a row, On ribbon.
/ painted over its black mu.lia folds s--s--a-
| We have not yet done. as the little
| fans for this season show, With the modes
of Bourbon times and the small gaaze evan
tail still has me,iallions on it, three usually,
miniatures of court beauties. with trails
| of tiny painted flowers wreathiug and
festooning from the quaint pictures, Most
of the medallion fans are made of chicken
! skin or tough paper treated TO resemble
| this favuritc fabric of fan painters How
ever, the smartcst small triflcs OF this
sort are now decorated on both sides with
| equal care and elaboration.
| Some of these have C. ID. Gibson black
The morning times., 1896-10-25

For young girls there is still pretense of
some arm protection. Il threc-quarter length
or short puff; hut for the older fry the
sleeves of low bodices are often n mere
continuance of the lace or flower drapery
that decks the dccolletage. AT the shoulder
these are punched to give a little extra
width and fall gracefully Il slight dis
tance over the arm. Underneath again a
narrow velvet band finished with a row
may encircle the arm like a bracelet, but
with many of the imported models. a sioul
der strap of velvet on flowers is the sole
excuse for sleeves in a low evening bodice.
With the paleSt and thinnest, and even
white tulles. spaneled headings will he
used with mink and sable fur for trim
inlngs At the shoulders OF the bodice sew
eral tails will mingie with the light sleeve
drapery, while wide belt of fur may
distinguish some smart model that bears
the name Of a great maker.
Fur, as both lining and trimming, also
appears ON the airest evening wraps.
A waist length cape, stamped by Paquin
and exhibited by 4 smart Fifth avenue
shop, was realized in pink silk muslin
over second cape of Russian sable.
This. however, appeared only in the lin
ing, which was covered closely at the
outside with pink satin; then over this
The morning times., 1896-10-25
FOR COOL. FALL DAYS.
Madame Goes Forth i'm -Cheviots
Designed Artistieally.
Cloth Now Comes in Very Bril-
liant COiors.

with jeweled bands The high, scant coat
sleeves We're of the dahlla Satln,. and dahlia
satin was employed for the high drapcd
collar.
The short. lcCSr iacket that went with
this visiting toilette was made OF Won
drSuS cIIDuss-L velvet ia dahiid ANA green.
The jacket had "A lining OF citron green
lace mounted by Il tall black chiffon ruff
gave a finish 10 the neck of The garment.
THE NEW TOQUES.
toque fashioned expressly for this
toilette and hcrctta crown Of gold braid,
guarded 10y a broad. 1ull puff of dablia
velvet. II was trimmed with bird Of
paradise plumes
\ striking early winter street teicttC is
made of Scotch cbcviot in a big blue and
green plaid. The skirt is a full godct.
made on the bias and trimmed at the
front seams with straps ana large smoked
pearl buttons. The bodice is built of dark
green ladies' cloth, II hit severe in its cX-
Cessive painness. II faStens at the under
arm seams, and instead OF being dotted
the fuIlness i $ disposed of in tiny plaits,
back and front. The collar was high and
straight. and the sleeves the regulation
coat sleeves.
. a short straight bolcro of the plaid
goods was detachable.
The small blue felt hat made for this
street gown was trimmed around the
The morning times., 1896-10-25
FASHIONABLE FANS.
Silver Bells on the Guarl Stick the
Latest ECCentricity,

Fans this season are divided into the
useful and the beautiful, or, in ether
Words, fans for ball rooms and theaters
and those for receptions, dinners, the opera
and Weddings. The first are small strong
scarkiing With oruamentation and mostly
made of close woven gauze, on carved wood
or White bonesticks.
The second tpye are grand feathercd af-
fairs, the biggnrthe better. and mounted on
pink pearl. Some of the prettiest of the
little fellows are black muslin, and Instead
~ the spanglrS. of which we are, by the
way. growing bit tired, yividly y-colored
beetles wing are usedindecoration. These
are snowy and resplendent and the newest
fans. of black gauze and treated after this
Taffeta ribbons, with black velvet
edge, may be had very cheap, and make
pretty trimmings for chldren's and misses
frocks.
The morning times., 1896-10-25

hung loosely the muslin cape itself. Here
a little dwelling, for that bit of muslin
frivolity was something to make the mouth
water. 1t was made entirely OF tiny puffs.
running around, and divided between with
narrow edges of sable, headed by rows
Of single spangles in scales. \ vast fur
collar finished the neck, and inside this
there We're big quiilings of the muslin
that muffled the throat softly and ended
at the chin in a vast bow with long ends
that came almost to the bottom OF the
skirt.
An evening cape somewhat longer anu
fuller was made Of Grebe. which is Il bird
skin OF satin softness and delicacy, now
in high feather with the furriers. This
was the usual gray, or, rather, black and
white of this skin, with Il lining of old
yellow brOcalle. -
The morning times., 1896-10-25

are disguised, as 1T Were. You see little
open coat OF embossed velvet with n col
lar of lace and standing ruff of Clifton.
How different from tie straight -neckcd
velvet coats we used to know.
The fancy runs toward little items of
toilette. Plain, smooth cloth is deliberately
trimmed.
A Young American woman. whose hus-
band, although in the oil business, is feel
ing the times visited her Paris dress
maker. II want" said she, something
very drcssy for carriage wear, and very
cheap. You know. Celeste, have always
been good customer OF yours. Now, he
friend me, and tell ne how to get some
thing beautiful and cheap"
a CHEAP CAPE.
Celeste, in her heSs mood, took "A pencil
from table. This said she, sketch
ing little round cape upon a piece of paper,
lis OF snow white cloth. See, how gor-
gCous! 1t costs little per yard a mere
nothing. tits not even broadciGth. no, nor
doeskin; just plain, smooth cloth.
This, rapidly skctchng design around
the edge, lis a peacock feather trimming.
blue, touched with green. Cheap also.
This is more of the same" touching up the
high collar. And this "A great paste but
ton To lasten Ill front Elegant! Your
friends Will say. and it costs you nothing.
Celeste Will make it, and YOU will wonder
at the small price. Shall Celeste make it.
Madame?"
Celeste made it, and when you read the
descriptions OF IA Paris fete in the near fu
turc. look for the American woman who
wears a white wrap and peacock feathers.
ilcr skirt is To be Chaugeable blue and
green silk Her hat tOquc. with one big
bIr,i upon it. Her gloves SHOW white. with
out stitching.
There has never been time when the
woman with left-overs could fit herself out
so prettily. The old-fashioned vclvets
do over" admirably. if one has only had
the wisdom to preserve them. And, so.
though the heavy season is upon us all.
FAR and wide, we shall rejoice in the fash
Ions that allow us so much latitude and
offer SO much prettiness.
NINA GOODWIN.
The morning times., 1896-10-25

trimmed with white tullc and pink moss
roSchuds, was very ctlGs sming. Again. other
more gowns Were lung entirely with thin
stuffs, tulle and silk gauze, the Glittering
wave of the foundation showing through,
and n folded belt and perhaps tiny puff
sleeves matching.
Sleeves. by The way, however, are very
unimportan Mt affairsin I he new dance frocks.
The morning times., 1896-10-25
Embossed Velvet Is i'm Again,
and Small Fiaring Coats Are
Being Made OF 1t.
Feather Trimming
Popular.
Copyright. | S%G.

Paris, Oct. l5.-PariS has had now five
solid Weeks uf peltinG rain, and instead
OIL sSinG SCorCed and bro wn.I.s IL generally
does at this season, the trees Il nd grass look
positively tropical in their SrecunrSS.
When one grumbles al the inccSSaut rains
somebody invariably chimes in and prp-
phcSlcS an ideal November and December.
'rhelight summer ownShavelonG since been
folded away. even before they had half Il
chance OF proving their usefulness. Our
Trouville belle has brought back a Whole
trunk OF saHZy GOWNS untouched, because
thecuol rainy summer Calledfor alpaca and
Irish puplinS instead Of the thinner ma
terIals. And their faSC mating picture
hats. laden With plumes ana tulle, have
hardly seen the light of day this season.
At home II is good to know that the sea
son Was warm enough. though al top
short. And oh. crimps aud home made
curls.
What = trying time my lady viii have
through tins weather. Beau catchers,
you have hung around her brow limp and
hayward, and have no. helped her score a
noiut,.
The morning times., 1896-10-25
BABY RISGLETS .

Bought cuTl$ made on little wires have
been resortadto. itsouuds = bit vulgar. but
their ral~cueS> was G"vcr discovered for
they We're lunst artisttally arranged aud
gust prrprd from under hats ia soft baby
like Inglct>.
The cool weather. L grthcr wirh lhc great
gala week. has brought all ur lhis sGri-
mcrs dc>rrlrr> back 10 Paris in druyc~.
Wet city sidewalks are 50 u;ucIr more 10
Lac desired than country roads running
inches deep in mud and slush. especially
tf ones feet are clad in The rc2u!utlon
French shoes. which are rid!vuluu>ly tnin.
The ooulurrrcs have evidently Hr'i,iI.atrd
this early r.tJrm of their cArntc~. Tor the
most ravi>hin% model gowns ar on cx-
hihitiou IT aII II The smarter shops. ana
one scc> now moIc pretty ncw gowns than
one can record.
~ private exhibition of model GOWNS
at one uf the shops On Pouieyard Hau>s-
man. there WIS visiting tuicti, OF fl vn
ladies clatE that attracted no end # ~
tcntiun- The skr, was full goHct C Ike
fawn ladies ,lu,E. with a fouriurn :,and
of cream ladies cloth around the bottom
that was edged with q fun plI>>c Of mar
row cream lace. Two bands uf iIaCk
feather trimnin" orHHmcntcd the cream
band. ami just At the left side of The front
Eiore ihcrc Were three disks of the cream
ladies' cloth grouped together and edged
with the black feather trimming.
The bodice WAS a plain dariIc>S affair
faStenu" at the under arm seam. Folds
of the cream ladies cloth Gvcrlappcd each
other To form long square yoke. ANA Il
narrow band of the feather border trim
med the edge. The sleeves We're snug fit
ting coat sleeves. with the fullacss at the
top arranged tu stand straight up.
ceiniUrc of black velvet with double
loops AT the front finished the bottom II
tie bodice.
PRETTY COLLAR CAPE
The oollcit" ihat went with this toilette
waS made of cream ladies' cloth, with u
lining Of Citrnn green taffeta. TliSsrs Of
the narrow cream lace and the fcatlrrtriru-
ming trimmed the cole t. most yi5ti.,rslt.,;v.
and two friIlS of black chiffon gave The
finish to the bottom
great deal has been sad against Tie
fashion of employing different materials
III The hed!ces of tOilettcS. 1t IS still hcing
done u great deal, and by The hc>t houses
liz Paris, too After all. materials are
rather secondary matters. FOR If toilette
is becoming and has a chic air one j. rather
CONSCIOUS "r the ensemble than the especial
materials
rich visiting gown of daft!a satin an!
citron green satin was the pride Of ,,uo
of the Swcllcst couturicrc's fal! exhibition
The skirt was a full. plain godct nf dahl.a
satin and OF such a heavy quality that
the usual stiffening WIS no: employed III Tie
facing around the bottom
The bodice was Of cItrou satin covered
very full with Hack chiffon and banded
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
A sPASM OF SENSE,

Now, let's have short spasm Of
common sense. If people who have
been chemically sick are so soon
and so easily cured by WampoIe's
Preparation, why were they not
cured by some of the medicines they
took before I? Because medicines
are like novels and songs; once in
while a good one in tons of tons of
poor ones. That's the reason and
its reason enough. But what is this
preparation made of that it should
do what others cannot The an
swer is simple and straight. 1t is
made from fresh Cod Livers, the
Hypophosphites. and the Extracts
of Malt and Wild Cherry Bark,
combined in q new and scientific
way. 1t isn't lot of homogeneous
ingredients shaken together, but
chemically united, so as to make one
thing of unprecedented potency. 1t
is no Anticipated mixture-ft to
upset the stomach of a Greenlander,
but God Liver Oil ESQ far as that
goes) with the taste and odor COM
pletely taken out of it.
Is pleasant to the palate as spiced wine,
and It cures Fevers, Scrofula, Bowel Com
plants and Wasting Diseases, by expelling
the deadly germs and filling the blood
with rich and healthy elements such as
nature requires. Try 1t and see what a
do for you. Gives results from the first
dose. Sold by all druggists.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
I'LL ALONG THE DOCKS
LONG STAY OF THE GREAT
STEAMSHIP CHINA IN PORT.
Vessels Were Dressed for Christmas
Bark in Distress-Coal Coming-Show-
ing the Mauna Loa--Front Notes.

The Miowera sailed from Sydney on
December 18th.
The he Au Hou arrived Thursday
afternoon from Kauai.
The Mokolii returned this morning
from Mololiai and Lahaina.
The Oakbank got away on time
Thursday afternoon for New York.
The j. c. Glade moved over to Brew
er's wharf this morning to discharge.
The Zealandia will come out next
time on the Mariposa's route, arriving
here January II.
The j. \. Cummins arrived back
from Waimanalo Christmas eve. She
will sail again on Monday.
The Andrew Welch moved over to
the Kinau wharf this morning where
she will take sugar.
The schooner Sarah-and-E Eliza ar
rived Christmas morning from Waia-
lua with 43O bags rice.
The Kaala arrived late Thursday
from West Oahu ports with a light
cargo of paddy and rice. No sugar.
The ship c. f. Sargent and barBen-
tine Geo. c. Perkins have been chart
cred to load coal at Newcastle for Ho-
nolulu.
The Archer sailed from San Fran
cisco on the 18th for Honolulu; the
Mary Dodge left two days earlier for
Kahulu.
The bark Colusa arrived at Nanaimo
on the 10th from Honolulu via the
Sound, where she will load coal for
San Francisco.
All the shipping in port was in holi-
day attire during Christmas. The
Alert gave twenty-four hours liberty
to the off watch.
The Marie Hackfeld moved over to
the railroad wharf this morning to
discharge her shipment of ammonia
for the Fertilizer Works.
The test of the lights of the Mauna
Loa Thursday evening went off in
good shape. A large number of people
were present and looked over the boat.
Capt Campbell superintendent.
The bark spoken Thursday after
noon was the Northbrook, Capt. Law
son, seventy-eight days from Hong
kong for Vancouver. She has malaria
aboard, the result of Hongkong water,
and put in here in distress.
The p. NJ. S. S. China, Capt. Sea-
bury, arrived at IL o'clock Christmas
morning, five days and twenty-three
hours from San Francisco. Had ex-
cellent weather down. She brought
eighteen cabin passengers for Homo
lulu. Four hundred tons of coal is
being taken here. The big liner will
get away at this afternoon for the
Orient.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
Departmental Finance,

Honolulu, III. l., December 18th, 1896.
Under Article 35, Section l of the
Constitution, it is required that each
member of the Cabinet shall make an
annual report of transactions within
his department, during the year end
ing December 31st.
The Minister of Finance takes this
occasion to request all those having
claims against the Government of a
monetary nature, to present them TO
this office, through the proper Depart
ments, not later than liz o'clock noon
on Thursday, January 18th, 1897, after
which date the books of this Depart
ment will be closed.
All persons having moneys on ac-
count of the Government are request
ed to make their returns promptly, in
order that there may be, no delay in
closing the accounts for the year end
ing December 31st, 1896.
S. M. DAMON,
Minister of Finance.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
SEALED TENDERS.

Sealed tenders will be received at
the Foreign Office until WEDNES-
DAY, December both, 1896, at 10
o'clock noon, for furnishing to the
Commissary Department of the Ma
tional Guard of Hawaii, the following
supplies for the term of twelve
months from January LIST, 1897:
Butter, California kit, per ID, up to
1000 Tbs.
Bacon, per 10, up to 1000 TBS.
Bread, white and brown, per loaf,
up to $4,000 loaves.
Beef-steaks, Round, per ID, up to
$4,000 lbs.
Beef, Rib Roasts, per Id, up to
90 900 TBS.
Beef, Corned, per ID, up to 5000 Tbs.
Beef Hearts, each, up to 1000 Tbs.
Beef Livers, each, up to 1000 Tbs.
Beef Tripes, each, up to 5000 Tbs.
Coffee, Green, Island, per ID, up TO
$500 Tbs.
Eggs, hen, per dozen, up to $500
dozen.
Ham, per 10, up to 5000 lbs.
Milk, per gallon, up to 1000 gallons
Mutton, per carcass, up to 5000 TBS.
Potatoes, per Id, up to $4,000 TBS.
Tea, Powchong, per I'd, up to 500
Tbs.
Bids must be made for each item
separately.
All supplies must be of first class
quality and be delivered at the Bar
racks of the National Guard of Hawaii
in such quantities as may be required
from time to time, subject to the in
spection of the Commissary Officers.
All tenders must be endorsed "Tend-
ers for Commissary Supplies" The
Minister of Foreign Affairs does not
bind himself to accept the lowest or
any bid.
WILLIAM O. SMITH.
Minister of Foreign Affairs ad interim
Foreign Office, December 22nd, 1896.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
PASSENGERS.
Arrived.

From San Francisco, per p. NJ. S. S.
China, Dec. 25.-H. Kruse, wife and
child, c. H. Deskey, wife and child,
Mrs. j. G. Rothwell and two children,
Hon. II. E. Cooper, Alex. Young, B. L.
Marx, w, H. GUNNER, Miss Newcomb,
Miss b. Young, Miss NJ. Young, j. A.
Waite, j. J. Dunn.
From Bremen, per j. C. Glade, Dec.
20.-J. d. Riltmeister
From Molokai, per Mokolii, Dec. 26.
j. X. Kahinu, Mrs. Mary Ailau, Miss
Manoa and two deck.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
CARGOES.

Elk MoRolii, from Molokai, Dec. &c.
90 pigs and 80 packages.
Elk Kaala, from Oahu ports, Dec. "a
-1537 bags paddy, $50 bags rice, 1913
bags taro and Al packages.
From Oahu ports, per stmr j. A.
Cummins, Dec. 24.-30O bags rice and
sundry packages.
From Oahu ports, per stmr Ke Au
Hou-4332 bags paddy, 10 packages
sundries.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
ARRIVALS
Thursday, December q

Thursday, December "a.
Stmr Ke Au Hou Thompson, from
Maui and Hawaii.
Stmr Kaala, Thompson, from West
Oahu.
Br. bar-l Northrop, from Hongkong.
Friday, December 25.
p. M. S. S. China, Seabury, from San
Francisco.
Stmr j. A. Cummins, Searle, from
Waimanalo.
Schooner Sarah-and-Eliza, from Wa
ialua.
Saturday, December &c.
Stmr Mokolii, Hilo, from Molokai
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
HALF AND HALF.

The Royal, Pacific and Cosmopoli-
tan saloons are now serving half and
half for their customers. Two glasses
are sold for a quarter. They still sup
ply Pabst and Buffalo beers at the
same price.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
HOLIDAY PICKINGS

Any
right sort
of neck fixing
is gettable
here.
We've
no hobbies
but
rightness-
Right in quality,
Right in design,
make,
idea.
price.
Our regular customers
know it.
We want a chance
to
open the eyes
of the other fellows.
Once you are here
you won't get away
without picking.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
For SAN FRANCISCO:

Steamers of the above Companies will
call at Honolulu on their way from
Hongkong and Yokohama to the above
port on or about the following dates:
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1896-12-26
DEPARTURES.

Saturday, December 26.
p. NJ. S. S. China, Seabury, for Yo-
kohama and Hongkong.