The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-09-06
For the
Princess
Of Wales

The dress illustrated with the long coat
has Just been completed for the Princess
OF Wales by leading London tailor and
Is a model we'll worthy of the considera-
ton OF every slender woman, as the style
leaves nothing to be desired, being perfect
IN every detail. Among the points to be
noted are the very small revers, the three
buttons at long intervals, the small cuffs,
with two medium sized buttons, the posi-
ton and size of the pocket, the very mod
crate sleeves and the comparatively mar
row skirt. The material employed is a
superfine steel gray cloth. This style re-
calls the mode of three years ago, and yet
1t differs in several radical points. The
other tailor gown is a combination of dark
brown melton, with a vest OF creamy
white cloth embroidered in three shades
of brown silk intermixed with gold. The
lining is of a brownish golden silk. All
such gowns will have this winter much
rich braiding, not only on the vests, but
on the skirts as well and the vests are to
be of velvet; heavy brocade cloth will
never be seen excepting when very eiab-
orately and beautifully adorned with en-
broidery or braid as the plain skirt and
jacket can only now be donned when
the wearer starts on a shopping tour. The
elaboration and Identification of the tailor
suit was anticipated by those who keenly
watch fashion changes, as the moment it
became quite the thing to wear handsome
hats and toques with such costumes it
naturally followed that to be strictly in
keeping they must become more orna-
mental. Let US hope that foolish exag-
gerations will not drive one of the most
satisfactory of gowns out of existence, for
if discretion is exercised there is no reason
why the results should not be quite de-
lightful, as its usefulness can be greatly
increased by the use of not only the most
lovely of vests, but also of those as simple
and monumental as possible, and for
the slender and the plump woman as well
no more desirable style has ever been
evolved.
The other design conveys an excellent
idea OF one of the latest Partisan crea-
tions. 1t is decidedly chic, being of
black crepe de sole over rich black
taffeta silk. The bodice is covered with
palette black tulIe and with organisations
of white lace.
The chapeau with the lofty plumes is
from one of the best known milliners in
France, and we are assured that this ar
rangement OF feathers is to be much seen
in the immediate future. can but won
der if our fashions will ever appear as abb
surd to US as those of 1882 now do.
One of the SWEETEST tailor gowns de-
signed for some time makes a da1k-eyed
belle a trihe more charming than ever.
1t is composed of a dark green melton
cloth. The bodice has vest of tomato
red cloth, covered with the finest black
braiding, and from this vest arises an
Of creorou white cloth ovar
which turns a pretty collar OF red cloth
edged with black braid. The costume is
lined with glece tomato red silk.
Every one wants a tailor dress for win
ter, so have no fear of describing too
many, and travelling toilette of blue and
green shot homespun, having latter
sail vest IN vicuna color, with appliques
of green leather outlined by gold braid, is
especially successful, as is also hand
some one of boxcloth IN Hussar blue.
The cuffs and waistcoat are of light blue
gray cloth covered by braidings in blue,
gold and fawn and bordered by a narrow
line of brown mink fur, the braiding and
fur trimming being repeated on the skirt
by little godets inserted at either side OF
the skirt The lining throughout is of
white chine silk striped with blue.
Blue cloth in every dark SHADE is to be
stylish this season, especially when richly
braided and used in combination with
gray or white cloth. Unquestionably
braiding is to be q great feature of all
cloth dresses, sewn on in straight rows or
in rows put on in fanciful design.
Also extremely chic are the tailor frocks
which have Just appeared in London,
made in jacket and skirt form of smooth
cloth to be worn with smart little plaid
waistcoats.
With tailor gowns belts of both green
and red feathers are to be worn during the
early autumn, red being the most fashion
able The green must be of bright shade.
Yachting dresses continue to be an in
teresting topic of conversation and dark
blue flannel with a lighter blue line run
ming through it is enjoying great vogue,
and is certainly welcome change after
plain dark blue serge, and besides 1t will
look we'll for quite as long a time and has
a smart appearance when worn with shirts
and belts of almost every color. During
Cowes week many were the excellent
yachting costumes commented on. One
fair Archduchess wore white serge and
white sailor hat. The Countess of Annes-
lev is said to have looked charming in
cream serge gown with short dress coat,
the collar revers of which were outlined
with cream and gold braid, which was
carried up the seams at the back of the
bodice; vest of pale green silk and a bat
of white MANILA straw trimmed with
cream ribbons mpleted this costume.
Much liked was dress of navy blue
serge; the short coatee, uniquely cut, has
the revers outlined in gold cord, showing
a sash of pale dull green silk, of which the
vest was also made.
A creation of royal blue canvas had
zouave bodice which was embroidered in
waved lines of white cable stitch and re-
vealed a soft blouse of white silk encrusted
with lace. With it was worn a sailor hat
of white straw with blue burgee ribbon.
A pretty French woman wore cream serge
with a vest of soft rose pink silk and hat
of cream rush straw, and trimmed with
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