The Portland daily press., 1896-11-21
THE HON
Fashion Notes

Storm collars are study. They have
been growing higher and higher all he
fall, and now as they are lined with fluffy
furs they are special feature of 1856
fashions. They are smart and most be-
coming. They hide wrinkles and poorly
shaped heads. They make elaborate
ooitfures secondary consid Grafton.
Even the girl of twelve looks at you
from out refuge of fur and velvet, her
glossy. curly looks peeping here and
there each side of her ears.
The latest Partisan fashion of dressing
the hair shows the chignon quite high on
the head, SO much so, In f., ct, that it en-
tirely disappears beneath the crown of
the hat. Waving the hair is an popular
as ever. and 1t is arranged so as to be
very loose and fluffy about the face. and
is held in place at the back with pretty
curved combs. The pompadour front is
worn, and can be made becoming to al
most every face with few curling looks
to fall on the forehead. But IL there Is
one thing more than another in which
woman shows her individuality, 1t Is in
the way she does her hair, no two wom-
en- exhibiting exactly the same ooiffurs.
1t is wise to study out q style that suits
your face. that is in every way becom-
ing. and then cling to 1t. for fashion, so
arbitrary in other directions, allows
great latitude In this.
Very few absolutely plain coats are
seen; the plainest are exceedingly
smart, of the most expensive grades Of
cloth, and what is known as the mill
tary style of braiding is the trimming.
Some few are trimmed with very hand
some frogs The long cloaks Of velvet
and cloth are exceedingly handsome, and
while they are always expensive, they
are like charity, in that they cover a
multitude of shortcomings for the gown
worn underneath door not show, and
consequently may be of two or three
years agone.
Every possible effort Is being made to
introduce elAborateness in skirts. ORA
peries, full-length fronts, panels, over.
skirt folds, ruffles and all sorts Of en-
broi6ezed sections are to be used.
Bunchiness and paniers are looming up
in the near future, and the day of dainty,
graceful and comfortable plain skirts,
with all of their style and elegance, is
rapidly drawing to close. The double
skirt is again coming into fashion. An
imported costume of black bYoadcloth is
made with a double skirt. The lower
one is elaborate!y en- broidered; the up
per one is raised at intervals, and so
draped that the embio d,ry is visible.
Embroideries of all sorts and kinds
are ecidedly the fashion this season,
and cloth gowns as we'll as the more
dressy materials show elaborate use Of
them.
A stylish street costume Is made of
fine black cloth. The front breadth, vest
and sleeves are of black armure silk.
Bows and loops Of ribbon are used as
additional decoration.
Jeweled buttons and enameled buttons
SO carefully done that they resemble
Floretlno moaaics. are used on both af-
ternoon and evening dresses. Added to
these are some novelties in celluloid, i'm
itation gold and silver in 100000 designs.
Tea Cloths.
A pretty tea cloth or white center piece
of plain, white linen may b. made with
narrow hemstitched hem, around which
a handsome cluny lace Is sewed plain,
with the exception of the CORNERS,
L. to f,,IJo 10 IL - r
About four inches inside of the hem
draw threads to make narrow hem
stitch, making 1t alike on all sides.
Two inches inside of this row draw an
other set Of threads and make another
row OF hemstitching. In this way there
is band two inches wids on each side
Of the cloth, and crossing each other at
the corners. On these bands small scat
tered blossoms or leaves may be en-
broidered.
Sprays of hop vines are especially
effective for small tea cloths, a. the dell
cate shades of the hop plant include
some Of the prettisst greens. The leaves
are done in deep long and short stitch.
the tendrils of the vine in stem stitch
and the hops in solid work.
If you buy stamped piece which you
would like to duplicate, pin a sheet Of
transparent paper onto pillow and then
fasten the stamped article on top Of that.
Take fine needle and prick rows Of fine
holes through the pattern; you will then
have n stamping pattern to use any num-
TO of times, provided you are supplied
with stamping powder.
An embroidery hoop should be used
for working and the edge of white silk
buttonhole work should be reserved I'M
til the the last. Make serious business
of such piece of embroidery for 1t will
never bs done we'll az "catch up work. -
The hands should be thoroughly clean,
dry and not roughened, else the silks
will be injured and the finished work
have ragged appearance. Delft de-
signs are popular yet, but do not always
harmonic with their surroundings. Jewel
work adapts itself to everything and