The enterprise. [volume] (Wellington, Ohio) 188?-1899, 1896-07-22
EuRoPEANL LETTER.
An Interesting Letter from Our Foreign
Correspondent,

correspondent,
ROME, ITALY, July IA visit to the
Catacombs is one Of the inevitable duties
Of the traveller here, no matter how little
time he may find for anything else. 1t
is indeed of unfailing interest to all sorts
and conditions Of tourists, from the
student Of history or the archeOlOgist to
the man who is 'dOing" Europe in five
weeks, and who decides to give forty
eight hours to the eternal city. The lat
ter, it is true, is disinclined to waste
time on the Catacombs, being under the
impression that we have mines and tun-
nels in America which are as interest
ing and more practical; but he comes
because some one has told him that they
must be seen; nor does he feel that his
time has been wasted when he returns.
First there is drive along the Via APP
pia, where careful eyes may find some Of
the original stones, placed long before
the era of Christianity. Even the un-
imaginative must think of the feet that
have passed over them from triumphalpro-
cessions Of Caesar and Titus to the weary
tramp of fettered slaves, not to mention
the distinct vision that arises Of the
little group of disciples who went to
meet Paul as far as Appii Forum and the
Three Taverns, and came back with him
to Rome. Then when you have reached
the garden that surrounds the entrance
to the Catacombs Of st. Calixtus there
are several rivals, but this is the most
popular) you climb down into the dark
passages, you decipher the Inscriptions
made by the early christians who found
a Kidding place here; you gaze at the
spot where the body of gentle st. Cecilia
was found with its severed neck; you lis
ten with rising hair to the story of the
tourist who was separated from the rest
of his party, and who wandered helpless,
ly in these miles of labyrith for days
and who was never found again, or ac-
cording to some versions, was finally dis
covered in an imbecile condition. This
is always related, and makes you
clutch your waxen taper more tightly
and follow closely the footsteps of the
guide until you emerge blinded into tht
outer light. 1t is a relief to come bach
to safe common places; to buy chocolate
from the Trappist monks and talk to tht
two or three who are allowed to breal
their VOW of silence, and who appar
emily enjoy the privilege, conversing vol
ubly in several languages and on an!
topic. One Of these (he has face tina
might have been model for Carlo Dol
Gil is known as the Beautiful Brother
among the gushing American girls ant
they esteem it a great favor to have hin
for their guide in the subterrannean pas
sages.
On the way back the driver alway
stops at little church and explains tina
this is something that you must not mis-
seeing. You collect your few Italial
words and inquere what is the attract
iOn-the building is small and looks al
most as much like a wayside inn as
, place of worship. This is the church Q
Domino Quo Vadis," and here, accord
ing to ecclesiastical tradition, on one OC
casion when Peters courage failed hir
= and he was fleeing from Rome, Chris
met him on the way. "Where goest tho
, Master?" ask Peter, whence the name {
the cnurh. ITO the city, to be crucife
again, in thy stead" was the answer
The apostle returned at once, to sufft
martyrdom, and the place OF the yisiO
:, is commemOrated by the impress
:. Christ's feet on the stOne-much I'll
same story that is told in other coun
ries of MOhamed and Of the angel Gal
riel. In this case however, incruedulit
"a is excusable. The stone is uncOvert
~ (after you have paid for the privilege
- seeing it)with much fOrmality and reve
ence; there are the two feet. but the o
= servant can distinguish the marks
- - tOenails, leaving one to infer that Il
~ bungling artist designed the nails on Il
-, bottom of the feet.
- Another chapel, further out, on t
" supposed site of Paul's execution,
- called the church of the Three Fountain
- - A bare-fOOted friar explains that as
=, ~ head of the apostle fell from the axe,
~ ~, rebounded three times. At every 81
y. ~ where it touched the earth spring
" water arose. If any skeptic doubts Il
=, piece of history, the ingenious mo
~, ." says, with an expressive gesture, Il
", =" do you not see the springs"