The morning times., 1896-03-15
PARIS FASHION FLATS
BuStleS and Poke BOnnetS to Be in
Vogue Return of the
Tilter.
Copyright, soe.J

Paris March 5-There is a Lenten
gravity about the costumes now worn for
church and promenade that is very allur-
ing to the passing eye To good folks it
indicates a seenly reverence for the holy
period but 70 true worshipers of fashion
the sudden drop from tue CLINT and glitter
of the winter evidences the fact that pincn-
beck nlagnificenCe is no longer the thing
Textures and trimmings for street use
are still rich, but 1t is their quiet ele-
gance that now attracts
The ieweled buttons and all the gemmed
fronts and galoons, that turned so many
women int" coUnterfeits OF their own
cooks, have almost entirety disappeared.
In their place white satin Is now used
to strike the highest note Of dressiness,
and many winter frocs has been furnished
up with touches OF it into spring-ike
elegance.
The smart little Louis Seize coats OF
velvet cloth, and brocaded silk are stu
in high favor for their usefulness and dash.
These are most becoming TO slight figures.
The short naring tails and big revers
give the required breadth and look OF
extreme smailness TO the waist
They are, however, confined to Occa
sions where little eiabOrdtiyeness Of
toilet is In keeping, AMI tail white satin
stock and q white tucked muslin and lace
front arealmoStinvarjab.e 9Ccomp3niucnts
These dasbine little Jackets. worn with
plain black skirts OF peau de sole or satin.
are often seen on Fifth avenue in the after
noon. and are worn 10 The fashionable eat
ing places for dinner They combine the
requirements of both bodice and wrap,
being usually slightly wadded back and
front down 10 the corset line,
The black aud white checked IdinCs seen
last year arc aeain in the mdrkt and are
being made up with extreme simplicity.
They appear often at LentCn services and
are made commonly with plain skirts and
round, snug bodice with basaues Back
velvet Is the only admitted trimming for
these, though IL may combine harmOniCusly
and elegantly with one of the popular white
satin or muslin fronts. Square side buckles
uf cut steel or jet, also often ornament the
bodice Of the checked wool gowns with
stylish effect. They form the fastening
in front TO narrow velvet crush belts,
appear on the stock and in small sizes may
be slipped over velvet straps to close Il u ight
sleeve at the wrist.
Dressmakers are a little ChaFy of dis
cuSsng final spring and summer styles.
But all are up To the eyes in work for
tohave grown narrower and sleeytSSm1ueT.
a medium bishop sleeve, that hangs with
a snug, dra wn-down look nj the wrist and
is there finished with round flaFing cuff,
is being much used for the Louis Seize
coats.
Bishop sleeves are also seen on the grass
linen and wash cotton summer frOcks Of
fered in the shops and in almost every case
they are found to be vi silly more becoming
than the long-hOnOred gigots.
Fur tipPetS are still worn, but for later
spring use there are some very beautiful
neck fiXings OF black or white chiffon.
These are of a surprising fiufnu5 s.. Using
often in doubled pieatingS or rufflss gcyond
the ears Ike 4 PierTot'S collar.
Sometimes they are in the shape Of a
big. short ruche that ties in front with satin
ribbons, but more decorative ones have
knotted scarf-ends, which. whenthe weather
win permit. viii! he allowed 10 hang loosely
over the shoulders.
Among the new textures for street wear
there are some plaid and figured wools that
are very handsome.
Then there are smart little Spanish Jack
cts on the boler0 order. that not only disguise
passe bodice elegantly. but that will
| he found very useful on discarding heavier
| wraps.
These. as shown In the illustration, are
| sleeveless, and are made of black or col