New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-08-16

I MORE nor shot effect. but something quite new and
| lovely.
| A useful gown to purchase IN August is one OF
| these silks in n light shade 1t can do duty now
| and serve afterward for a winter house gown. a
gown of this description just finished. is built Of a
ccrise silk with slight silver sheen over IT, About
the bottom OF the skirt is ru1e Of the stuff head
ed by fat band OF narrow black velvet ribbon and
finished by edge of ecru lace The bodice Is cut
| into the shape of a squar, about the base Of the
! throat and finished by frills Of narrow lace and
| loops Of tiny velvet ribbon. The lace and ribbon
are arranged 10 stand up. fashion that proves 10
be more becoming than the last seasons manner Of
ending the square-cut gowns with fat band.
There is a yoke Of fine tucking. which makes the
funess Of the short blouse The high belt. reach
ing TO under the bust. is of the silk arranged in
crisp folds that form double rufles down each side
Three Of the narrow velvet are placed on
each side Of the belt between the rutfied edges.
The sleeves are long. extending in mass Of lace
ruffles and black velvet loops the hands. They
are shirred in the inside seam although they define
the contour of the The fuiness is all at the
shoulders.
The same material comes in warm shade OF
light gre with the silver sheen and faint
white flowers running over it. The stuff is charm
ing but the gown more interesting novelty
than graceful The novelty consists OF slight sug-
gestion Of display in the skirt. Drared skirts were
tried In Paris two years ago and failed skirts
indeed too full ana heaVy 10 Stanu IL AT tHat
time I doubt II drapery will have any better sue
cess the coming season but there IS an inclination
on the part of the designers TO try IT, This coming
season will bcing few changes in cut and style,
and as the couturieres must produce new models
the tendency will be toward an ultra style of
trimming
The model refer to has scarf-llke drapery cut
into n point the top Of the skirt. II is about
eighteen inches deep in front. and drawn up In a
few folds 10 N amos, smoothly over the hips. At
q distance II might suggest the deep yokes we saw
on some of winters skirts. but it Is drapery
ever the skirt not yoke set into Il. The draperY
ends at the waist line in the back and then falls
in two sash ends down on the skirt. The drapery
and sash are Of stem-greer satin edged by an en-
hrodery of buttcr-coloreG lace. This skirt would
be impossible on any but tall, slender figure, al
though II a lighter color were chosen FOR the drap-
cry IT woud be less trying. The model who dis
nlayed the gown English girl as tall as the
average man. and she certainly displayed TO ad-
vantage The bodice is coat-shaDed, although 1t
de AT .he waist line and the Jacket fits the figure
with short rcvers faced with the green satin. In
the back are short fan coattails that merely cover
the Joining OF the drapery to the sash. Ih'se are
faced with the satin. There is waistcoat OF whits
accordion pleated mousseline de sole that forms
HIGH frilled choker above the coat collar Of the
h.scue Revers and collar on the Jacket basque are
eaqed with the lace embroidery ribbon OK green
cain makes a point on the wastcoat and ends I'M
der the skirt drapery.
1-rtrimmed skirts are made for autumn models
but for elaborate silk or wool gowns they are the
excsn,ion rather than tho rule. This does not
mean that the great proportion OF skirts are ruf-
fed for much Of the trimming takes the form: Of
Fat hands No panels have appeared as yet, bur
some of the sash arrangements give a panel effect
and the dressmakers hint that there may be velvet
panels on winter gowns. panel idea Is certainly
SUGGESTED by an autumn mode! of grayish-blue
wool 1ne gown is lined with aster-purple SILK
There is a fat square bolero Of purple velvet with
q SQUARE Of heavy ecru lace inserted and edge
NJ lace The Jacket is cut short under the arms
but edges the In narrow points that appear 10
continue in the two long sash ends that fall down
the apron Of the skirt The sash ends match the
bolero There is a soft belt of pale yellow. almost
cream, mousseline de Sole. Inc Waistphhd ana
choker are of purple satin
An early autumn model for stree. wear IS OF
smooth faced brown cloth of light weight. About
the hem Of the skirt is narrow band OF foliage
green cloth embroidered in dull red and yellow,
with above 4 pattern done in brown silk braid The
cloth appears 20 be part Of the embroidery rather
than Il separate band There are Jacket sides TO the
bodice covered by the same embroidery that edges
the skirt The Jacket has revers hut IL cut into
square slashngs Belt. full blouse vest ana high
collar are Of black satin. The gown is lined with
plaid silk; indeed the quieter the gown the gayer
appears to be the silk lining.
word should be added about silk Innings. The
Paris dressmaker always lines gown entirely with
silk unless she is ordered 10 do otherwise. but
several Of them admit that the best quality OF cot
ton basque Innings not only wear better bui realy
IN better than does a silk one. Tn" 1T OF gown
dene nds on the strength and rmress OF the basque
lining 4 silk lining makes skirt hhnS ana NJ
better bat the skirt lining has not the strain on IL
that tho waist lining has skirts are maze 80 long
now that they must he wei heId up anu NC u I
rufee adds much to the effectiveness OF street cos,
,,,mc When II is sOiled IL may easily De cNcnhhstu
tor a. fresh one All the Paris shops sell made
up rncs for the inside OF skirts M1nen ~n
,J limo me skirt with the same fancy rulile II Is
@ - me dainty and effective additions to "A toll
winter model IL Of dark blue cloth having
obout The hem OF the skirt a band or fancy nsure9
Iiue and green and gold silk finished by Iihe Oh
III III, bodice has a short yoke and high choker
~ hiack velvet with wings OF yellow lace railing