Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1896-04-23

E this country Of employing
- saleswomen IN the dry goods
business, hoping that the re-
duction in wages would enable them to
undersell their rival, a T. Stewart. The
cunning ScOtchman slyly allowed them
to continue without seeming to notice un-
I'll the Frenchmen proved their innova-
tion success, when he simply followed
suit, and even went further il their ex-
pertinent by sending women on the
road as drummers. In this branch they
failed, not from incapacity, but because
the newness Of the idea made country
dealers shy and awkward in bartering
with women, but the novelty and en-
barrassment have long been relegated TO
the past, and ''lady drummers" are now
as plentiful az successful
When women first entered the bust
ness, they were considered capable Of
selling only insignificant articles, such
as those On the motion" counter. and
handkerchiefs and stockings. The high
est weekly pay Of the ordinary pioneer
shopgirl was SIS. That is the lowest sum
a saleswoman now receives. The scale
ascends to $40, but this sum includes
other duties beyond that Of selling, such
as those, for example, belonging to the
head Of a department.
Men only We're iutrusted with the
buying Of goods until the shrewd Stew
art conceived the idea of introducing
ready made dresses into his establish
ment He placed young modiste at
the head Of this department and sent
her twice a year to Paris to buy goods.
This was the first woman buyer She is
still alive, and we'll known to New
Workers as Mime. Connolly.
From the small beginning at the
thread and thimble counter woman has
penetrated into almost every ramifica-
tion Of this great business, and Of all
the multitudinous positions held by her
that Of buyer is the most responsible
and the best paid It is also the most
secure, for. while the mere saleswoman
is liable to be discharged at any moment,
or at best to have her pay reduced il
dull seasons, the buyer, as rule, has a
contract Of one, two or even three years,
duration.
This is made more in the interest Of
the employer than of the employee, be-
cause women buyers are scarce. and in
such general demand that they can al
ways command situations. The smallest
annual salary paid to wOma. buyer il
81, 800, the largest $40, 600, but this is
exceptional, the average being So, 900.
She receives no commissions, but all her
expenses are paid.
The pay CT the male buyer is invari-
ably in excess of that Of the woman, for
no discerniblc reason beyond the acci
dental one Of sex, since the qualities
that 20 to make the successful buyer
must be identical i'll both persons, as are
also the duties and responsibilities. A
number Of qualities are Indispensable
TO the buyer. Ii addition to natural
ability i'll that peculiar direction, a
woman must have long experience, good
judgment, excellent taste and great tact
in dealing with people. She must be
bold and self confident enough to seize
upon any and every novel article that
she fancies viii prove "quick seller. "
She must possess a perfect knowledge Of
the value Of the goods submitted to her,
and be quick witted and shIewd in bar
gaining for them. Every firm expects
certain rate IF profit upon the money
buyer has invested. This must be deter
mined at the period of ''stock taking
which usually occurs twice year-in
January and July-when the buyer must
show the amount of profit for the season
Of six months If less than expected, it
proves that the goods have not been ju-
diciously purchased or too many for the
demand, and they have to be reduced
and worked off at bargain sales at q
loss to the house.
A buyer must be on the constant look
out for novelties and eternally vigilant
lest some other establishment gets ahead
Of the one she represents. She must be
diligent and perscvering, and, unlike the
male buyer, absolute sobriety is demand
ed Of her.
She, however, outnumbers him, in
proof of which it viii be sufficient to
quote but one great metropolitan house
with q staff of 81 buyers. 26 Of whom
Rre women. In all establishments they
buy the clothing worn by women and
by children Of both sexes They buy
the fancy goods, jewelry, bric-a brac,
laces, glassware, house furnishing
goods, millinery, cloaks, wraps, perfum
cry, books, stationery and frequently
silks and velvets. In short, women buy
everything except mems clothing and
such goods as require no taste in selec-
tion, such as cloths, shirtings, sheetings,
muslins, fiannels and other woolens.
The sale Of such cumbersome goods is
also made wholly by men.
As made up goods are purchased from
four to six months befsre they are placed
on sale, buyer must be able almost to
feel what the styles Of the future will
be when selecting samples AS the
models are called. after which are made
the gowns and other garments TO be sold
the ensuing season. The risk is espe-
cially great in the buying of furs, as it is
hardly possible to foresee on even to
conjecture just what kind Of fur may
take the feminine fancy half year
after purchases are made, or what freak
of some foreign leader Of fashion may
cause totally unexpected changes in the
shape or material Of fur garments, there
by throwing ON the dealers hands a
quantity of expensive and out of date
stock, which is too valuable and too un-
salable to be worked off at loss ut
the bargain counters and by Especial
sales All that can be done is to hold
over the stock till the fashion swings
around to it again, which it is sure to
do if one can but wait long enough.
II buyer thinks shat certain style