Evening star., 1896-09-19

!: 7 ! !: ! ] !" : ! !: I.
AM, M,,\r>MM'RL many things in the,
MMDl2AI/ yrs way Of brave adorn-
M E1 i ment, and to wonder
H<N/ ~ we'll for one thing,
HN/ If the new sleeve is
( W in any wise appli-
" A. cable to outer raj
2~ ment, and. for an
other, what m y
prove the prevailing type Of autumn jacket.
Fluff of lace is not yet quite put away, 1or
the bright, futtering creatures that gamer
to watch the boat races on the Stockpridse
Bowl lift their field glasses with hands be-
wristed in white cuffs. and their immacu-
late white sailor collars are edged with
lace, as In real salt water yachting they
would never be.
The smartest and newest golfng suit
here, frankly Influenced by English modes,
adopts tight sleeve with but the slightest
suggestion of fullness at the shoulder. The
skirt bottom and cuffs are heavily stitched
about five inches from the edge; there Is
white strap belt; the bodice Is douoie-
breasted, and in the collar. rather oddly,
there is a panel of black velvet such as one
secs on mems overcoats. The material is
what is called heather mixture, sort
of finely chopped hash of the clan tartan
colors. Fitted with spotless white tam
cap with a GlenGarry In the heather
mixture. the same suit would do finely Tor
bicycling, were the skirt cut somewhat
shorter.
Another combination which stamps itself
as new" at a glance-a walking dress-has
rather quteter mixed colors, a strap belt
and jacket with double pointed lapels OF
white. The jacket front shows strip OF
white embroidery edged with, narrow lines
of blue silk: the collar is white embroidery,
and a white Homturg. or Alpine hat with
r,,illa nd oh hcn {l
The Double Lapels.
These double lapels, the one opening
right over the other as II to say yes, l
quite agreo with you," must be called an
easy distinguishing mark of the season.
One sees them upon quite heavy jackets.
even upon driving coats, and the collar is
| often white. OF at least much lighter than
the cloth. It's Just fad as yet; II It lasts,
it's mode F-.
Hats of ceremony are of moderate brim.
wide and fiat of crown. Gowns OF cere-
mony-let me describe one used at an "au-
tumn leaves frollc The skirt anything
| you like SO that 1t Is figured silk and edged
with a wide double friil Of chiffon. The
| belt wide satin ribbon. The vest and un-
dersleeves are built line upon line and pre-
| cept upon precept of tiny, narrow, close
| fitting frllls of lace. and over the unde--
sleeves at the shoulders are swept two
| folds of the figured silk in the wrea th-llke
| style SO much used just now for eveniE &
gowns: the lapels and collars are satin rib
| bon again. OF course. such a gown belongs
| rather to the passing summer than to the
| autumn that Is here. ,- ...,-.
And oh, the autumn! The frolic of rust
| ling, clean brown leaves in the woods
| aisles the trails of clemat;s bursting into
| it's clouds of winged seed sails the bitter
| sweet showing the red heart under it's yei-
| low coat! If 1t could only stay autumn,
| and If the shortened days need not mean
! that winter time is near, how beautiful 1t
| Uvn hof frn1ina ha crln-
| ries Of the season there Is no wrap finer
than. the little shoulder capes the women
| are wearing, easily dOnned or doffed and
| feather-weight for the attending gallant to
carry. have seen very pretty one made
| to match its gown, trimmed with smallish
round buttons and lined down the side with
| groups Of knife pleats, three in each group,
! to bear out similar lines Of pleating In the
| otherwise plain skirt.
Some Stylish Jackets.
| They are wearing a great deal this fall
those smart Norfolk Jackets, with big but
tons, square. double-breasted fronts and
I wide lapels. And you shall see, also, jack
cts with odd and strange lapels cut in
double scollops and other queer shapes
Jackets are worn square and box-shaped
| for driving, close-backed and open-fronted
for cycling, but the basic idea is the same
! In all. and the length varies little-say
about to the level Of the hip joint. Jackets
| are good from now until snow flies IL IT
flies as soon as is its wont.
There is considerable use made this year
of braiding and stitching. as means of
| marking ana trimming gowns and wraps.
| Braid. when 1t Is used. is apt to be narrow;
| not wide braid such as one sees in white
| upon blue yachting gowns. Three lines OF
fine black braid. for instance, are consid-
cred to have a very horsey look upon the
sleeves and skirt of driving coat of gray
| or tan.
Chiffon is-well. It's convenient, which is
almost as good as being fashionable II
| remains quite a favorite material for the
| shoulder puffs, which are to mask sleeves OF
the new slenderness. Nor will its useful
ness be limited to the coming frost. Pleated
chiffon is still almost If not quite, the best
all-round material for bodice fronts If the
gown be not elaborate. Chiffon might be
dubbed the business woman's friend. From
the hat brim. however, chiffon and crepe
and all such stuff have vanished quite.
About the Waist Line.
One reason why the modistes worry Sc
much about the disposition of the "wals
line" is that "they hain't no such a thing
Dame Nature never made a waist, and Il
the Almighty had meant a woman to bt
corset-shaped, He'd doubtless have made
her So The wide corselet belt, pointed
above and below the waist line. has beer
very popular, but It's only for slender wo
men or those who insist on considerin!
a about which W We heat SO much. seer seems % to b,
fact. 1t is edsily defined.
A Venus waist is one which is about thre
or four inches larger than it was last sea
son. And it really makes the entire figur
look more slender, Because there is no sucl
| bulging Of displaced tissue above and below
it as the disfgprins corset compels. The.
say it is very, seldom, except in England
that one nowadays fees woman in reall,
high society with pinched waist. AS TO
Paris. it was There fhe idea began, and i
succeeds admirably because Of the supper
it receives from the very strong art sent
ment of the estheticsworld's capital
The only honest honest way .S to have smal
waist is to dfyeloR the muscles of tn
same means fight nn fat from under tn
belt. Almost any woman can get fine fig
ure Just as every West Point cadet does
and by similar meat1s
il. + ELLEN OSBORN.
He Proved 1t.
| From It'd Bits.
roor,,lf xuishinr evado servica NO