The morning times., 1896-10-11
1t Is Now the Fashion and Fad to
Be Slender.
Plain Clothes Have Superseded
Fancy Woolens and Are
Used for AII-Day Cos
TUNES - Sleeves Are.
Now Obscured.

While street gowns have been prepar.
ing for town, the fortunate world tnat
possesses chateaux or has friends that
do. and SO fingers on in the country, has
been having made for it hunting costumes
after English models, in which it is pre-
tending To fish aud shoot These gowns
are made OF heavy English material and
may be finished with leather faeings The
skirt stops between the knee and ankle:
it Is fiat on the front and sides with the
fullness thrown behind, but must have am
piitude enough for ease in walking. A
costume in green cloth has fitted Godice
with plain round basque withoHt godets.
fastened down the front with black brande-
bourgs, with a wide black silk elastic
belt. Black soutache on the sleeves ard
down the front seams of the skirt, ending
in an ornament Of three loops White
linen collar and black neck tie. High
biack CATERS and blue and green plaid
stockings. soft felt hat with peacn.,k feather.
Another costume in brown honespun is
made with short double-breasted box
coat, ard the coat and skirt are faced
with brown leather. Shirt OF blue and
green plaid, with turnover collar of the
same and black tie. Soft brown felt bar
with black Quill. High laced tan boots
and black stockings, basket with rcd or
gun.
After tranping across fields in this severe
and boyish costume, evening finds the
same women in the softer ,Iraperies of
what is technically known al i toilette
de chateau At this time of year the
dressmakers call every elaborate after
noon gown chateau toilette Comes un-
der this head not only the gown one puts
ON for tue dinner and evening if staying
at country touse. but the dress-up gown
as Wen, that one needs for dinners and other
occasions in town.
y dress OF this sort is composed Of shirt
and short bolero with sleeves rr ivory
white corkScrew cloth, and "A hloGse Of
blue chiffon, with narrow Russian belt
OF gold ribbon set with Imitation tarqauiSes
TIE front Of the bolero is plated - foIm
an effect OF jabotS, and the top Of the
sleeve is loose from the close part, and is
slashed and plated and falls in the same
way, and all the bolero is stitched round an
incl from the edge, so that it appears
hemmed
princess gown OF white cloth has a
yoke and sleeves Of brown velvet. 1t is
bordered with cable around the foot, round
the yoke and the top of the neck band and.
two straps OF sable run over each sho1f1ter
\ gown of black satin has a Iow-uecked
blouse with sleeves OF the satin. sIashed
open down the front over high-necketl
bodice of black Brussels net. Onthe blouse
are appiiques of net. On the skirt is a
plait or ruffle of the net.
clothing. The change from warm TO cold
weather wear is not so radical with French
women as with Americans, aud is prin-
cpaiiy confined to/the addition of warm
skirts The pieces as being worn may be
described as follows:
chenise or fine batiste without sleeves.
with a minimum OF material in the width.
III Is made narrower behind than in front.
and the latest design has the back all in
tucks from the neck to the bottom of the
waist. The chemise to wear with ball
gowns has no straps over the shoulders
but 1t is cut straight round. Ribbons hold
IL up while the corset is being nut op and
are then united.
Inc drawers of hatiste or thicker cotton
end Just below or above the knee Ir ia
ie fashion 10 have them very SHOT so thar
the knee is barely covered by the rpfrI.
ihey are also very wide, measuringt gtv.ntv-
SIX inches, which is gathered into n md
measuring twenty-four. The lower ed,-e
is rounded up toward the outside giving
the effect OF slight festoou. Itis th,.n
ea1hered into the narrow band and "A rufrIe
ADDED on The top is not sewed into a
yoke but is fitted by short cores.
The corset is oftencst but not ALWAYS
black, and from 1t depend black garter
straps that attach to black stockings. There
is talk or change in the form of the
corsets. which win be low and loose Mt
the top and close only over the abdomen.
permitting not a small but a Ion. waist
ms relates TO the change to a slender
effect mentioned above. There has tecn
an attempt to Introduce coIored Stockings.
but IL has had yet no appreciabie success.
The flannel retticoat reaches well below
the knee, TO length between the dra wers
and the long skirt, and is finished by pref
erencc without hem. with a six-inch
ruffle embroidered on the cdgr or in de-
fault of embrnidcry, with an edge of wool
lace. This skirt is preferably white
long pctticoat OF black satin, waGtIed
and quilted and lined with coloretl fan
mel. A narrow plating of black satin
ribbon is set in the edge Instead of
satin, cotton satinet may be used These
skirts are warm. but somewhat heavy.
A lighter weight and more ornamental skirt
Is of colored taffeta, lined with flannel,
but not waddcd. This skirt may he as
ornamental as one likes Among the designs
is one of striped blue and black silk lined
with blue flannel, with 4 narrow pinked
rufrlc OF plain blue silk in the edge.