The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-07-12

are possessed of artistic souls Most
lovely is one of the finest quality OF
the linen, which is quite different from
those usually sold; this is tiounced. OF the
same shade in batiste is the bodice, which
is run with diagonal stripes of white
Valenciennes lace and tucks. The front
is of the same, over rose-pink silk. One
of pink linen and pink batiste is equally
pretty, with a vest and collar of white
muslin and Valenciennes insertion. Never
before have so many muslin ana organdy
gowns been worn, and they are extraya-
CANT purchases, even when batiste lin
ing is substituted for the silken ore, as
unless you are clever with your needle or
have good maid back you have to send
your frock to the dressmaker after each
wash, so that she can replace and freshen
up the ribbons and see that the bones are
properly reinserted. Besides these trities
you Will have laundry bills that will fairly
appall you.
a London correspondent says: Muslin
gowns are much talked about but little
worn; if we all possess them it is certain
that we seldom put them on, although
every day new musilns are arriving from
Paris TO tempt US to their immediate adop-
ton" The latest are covered with chine
rosebuds alternating with colored stripes.
From these are evolved delightful bodices,
but the skirts are failures unless mounted
on gace silk; even then the gown will not
be success unless literally incrusted with
lace and ribbons. One made here of pale
pink organdy sprayed with odd greenish
tiger lilies has down the front nine lines of
creamy white Vaienciennes insertion. The
hfoh hos aSt Of 10 So mi
ton, between each row of which is three
quarterback ribbon of a delightful shade
of green. The sleeves are ruched, the
puffs at the top are very small, and over
them fall epaulettes of the lace and ribbon
edged with lace.
As general rule American women have
rarely perfect taste, and with regard to
their gowns too much praise cannot be
iavished on them, and Vogue with much
satisfaction comments on the Mandatory
remarks Iavished upon the gown worn by
Mrs. Breckenridge at the coronation. The
Gre ation is thus described:
ANNE. Breckenridge, wife of the United
States ambassador to the court of St.
Petersburg, wore an adorable toilette. Its
inspiration was not caught from the ira
ditions which govern court gowns worn on
such occasions, but, for all that, it was not
wanting in royal attributes. This notable
gown was built of ose-pink velvet en-
broidered in beautiful Renaissance design
in silver. The corsage decollete care
was EN- broidered with Jewels and the
sleeves 'ballons ouverts,' which permitted
the arms TO be visible. Attached 10 the
shoulders by superb ieweled buckles were
long draperies of rose velvet plisse, which
hung with peculiar grace. A manteau de
cours was fastened across the shoulders
with elegance souveraine, the writer adds,
and describes 1t built of apple-green mir
ror velvet covered with silver mbroidery
Worn in the hair was superb motif in
diamonds sparkling against a pouf of
white feathers, and clasped around the
throat there was double collier of dia-
monds and pearls. A beautiful toilette in
deed, and worthy of the reputation Ameri-
can women have made for themselves
wherever they go for exquisite taste and
an innate fitness in always wearing their
clothes with grace and charm"
Compared to the way many New York
society girls dress, consider our Califor-
MIA maidens are positively economical, but
of course there is great deal of difference
USLNSSn d New i OIh anu d can 4 francisco
season, for belle must have great num-
Der of frocks, all dainty and pretty, even
if not costly, when night after night she
goes to numberless balls, dinners and
theater parties, to say nothing about cos
tunes for calling. for concerts, lectures,
teas, etc. One undisputed authority states
that for a season at Newport or any
fashionable summer resort a debutante
who wishes 10 be properly CARRIED on al
occasions must have between three and
four dozen dresses and appropriate hats,
gloves, parasols, slippers, ties and shoes in
plenty, TO say nothing of the quantities of
exquisite fairy-like underwear of all de-
scriptions. Many American buds have
outfits that even royal bride would re-