The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-04-20
GRATING.
Valuable Suggestions From an Elk
pert EorticuIturist.


necessary, or at least desirable, to do
more or less grating. By this means
a new top may be grown on an old
tree. which, in two or three years, will
be bearing fruit. There are many apple
trees that often prove of little or no ac-
count after they have occupied valuable
space for many years, and yet seem too
large and thrifty to be cut down. They
have been planted, perhaps, through
ignorance of the character of the va
rieties, or, new kinds have recently
come to notice that would take their
places with great profit. 1t may be that
an orchard has been planted with too
many or two few kinds that are suit
able for home use; and n either case
there is opportunity to make q change
for the better. On many places there
are Seeding pear trees, which bear al
most worthless fruit, that might just
as easily produce the delicious Seckel
Bartlett, Anjou or Lawrence. There
may be thrifty vines. which bear grapes
of poor flavor or that do not bear many
of any kind, that if grated to suitable
varieties might become a source of
pleasure and profit. Ornamental trees
such as the elm, beech, linden and ma
pie can be grated in case it is desired
to change undesirable varieties into
those which are especially beautiful in
form or foliage. Nothing is easier to
graft than rose bush. and if there are
growing beside the house those that
have flowers that are not beautiful, try
setting few scions from those that
you admire
But it should not be taken for grant
ed that every kind of tree or vine can
be grated easily or to profit, because
this is not true although with proper
care and appliances almost every plant
or tree from a pink to a pine, may be
grated. However, it is particularly
useless to attempt to graft peach trees
and it is about so with cherry trees,
although I have now and then done
well with both. Nut trees are difficult
10 graft and before attempting it the
matter should be carefully studied, to
learn which species will succeed on
others and just how and when to per-
form the operation. Some experienced
horticulturists prefer budding big trees
as well as small ones, to grating them,
and with the orange. lemon and other
citrus trees this is the common prac-
tee. But when this is done it is neces-
Sady to cut off the branches in the
spring and cause them to throw out
sprouts ia which the buds may be set
during the summer. My own preference
is for grating no trees larger than
one or two-year-old seedlings, because
the wounds are more quickly healed
ever than those ON the old stubs that
result from cutting bark to make
sprouts. If any gratis should fail to
grow, sprouts may be left for budding
as the season advances. Unless a tree
or vine is healthy and vigorous. it is
usually better to spend no time and ex-
pense in grating its branches. 1t would
be cheaper and more satisfactory to
set new trees.
THE TIME TO GRAFT.
The time of year to graft extends
from quite early in the spring until af-
ter the leaves are out, there being a
variability in the character of the
stocks to be worked upon and the
method practiced. The grape is about
the first among the fruits that should
receive attention, or as soon as the
frost is well out of the ground in the
north, and in February and March fur
Their SOUTH the plum and cherry next,
and the apple, pear, ounce and orna-
mental trees after freezing weather is
well over, up to just before the bark
begins to peel. Nut trees should be the
last, and after growth has well started
is the most successful time.
TOOLS AND MATERIAL.
A good keen saw with fine teeth is
essential 1 like one about eighteen
inches long and with a narrow blade in
a steel frame, like a butchers saw. A
stout steel blade four inches long and
one inche wide. made sharp enough to
cut on one edge and one end and the
other firmly fixed into a short, solid,
wooden or buckhorn handle, with which
to do the splitting. This is very
cheap and handy tool, which can be
struck on the back of the blade with
little club-mallet made from a round,
hard stick, about a foot long, and with
a string through a hole bored near one
end Without taking it entirely out of
the split, it can be turned up endwise
ready 20 pry open and allow the inser-
dioa of the scion. A good pruning knife
is quite necessary; also a thin, sharp
knife, as keen as a rasor, to trim the
6cions
Wax is made in various ways and of
different kinds. Liquid wax, diluted
with alcohol l have used, but for the
ordinary farmer in common work I
prefer a cheaper and more solid kind
Ut may be made by melting and boil
ing together four parts resin, three
parts beeswax and two of tallow or
linseed oil. This, when, hot, should be
poured IN a large vessel of water to
cool in a lump, without adhering to
anything, and then worked into balls
of convenient size to use, (about the
size of the fist) and wrapped in greasy
papers. Before pouring the hot wax
out of the pot it is well to put in rolls
of old cotton rags about four inches
wide with small sticks in the center Of
each that are long enough to enable
one to hold the hot rolls by, after they
are well soaked, while another person
unrolls the cloth, spreading it on
bushes to dry. These when torn in
marrow strips are very good to use as
bandages about CRAFTS set in small
stocks, as they hold the parts together
firmly and cover the wound securely.
WHEN AND HOW TO GET THE
SCIONS.
There is no better time to cut the
ecions from the trees than in the fall,
Int any time before the buds start in
The spring will do, provided they have
not been damaged by severe freezing
They should. be healthy and sappy,
and such as have grown to a foot or
more in length if possible, and always
of the last years growth. I like to
take them from bearing trees. because
If we are certain just what. fruit grew
on the tree there is no danger of get
ting the wrong variety, and then some
good Judges think that they will bear
sooner than those cut from younger
trees. However, I have seen no differ
ence between such and those cut from
nursery stock In all cases, the scions
should be kept constantly moist and
cool that they may retain their full
vigor and not start into vegetation.
Burying in, the earth or packing in