The record-union., 1896-03-19
HAWAII, THE PEARL OF THE
PACIFIC
The Tenth Of a Series Of Letters by
John R. MuSlGk.
A Visit to Kauai-The Spouting Horn
and Other Natural Curiosities-
An Ostrich Farm.

Copyright 1885, by Funk & Wagnalls
Company, New York;
The island of Kauai is sometimes
called the Garden Island of the group.
1t is one vast flower garden between
ninety and one hundred miles in cir
cumference. Vegetables, however, are
not grown very successfully there. The
island is said by geologists to be the
Oldest of the group. One thing is GER
tain, Kauai has better roads than any
of the other islands, and after wander
ing through the stony, painless forests
of Hawaii. one finds the roads of Kauai
delightful garden paths.
On January 6, 1896, the little steamer
AIikahola lay at her dock in Honolulu
Harbor At 4 p. m. l alighted from the
carriage, walked up the gangway and
took my position on the Captains
bridge to watch the process of loading
mules.
This is an interesting sight. The yes
sci has a derrick rigged on the deck,
and a broad belt is passed under the
mule to which is attached hook above
his back. AS the engine starts, the mule
is lifted from his feet and landed on
deck. much to his disgust. One of the
most amusing incidents / have ever
witnessed was getting vicious mule
on board this vessel.
This mule was brimful of his Satanic
majesty, and flashed more birthstone
from his eyes than the great volcano
is doing to-day His heels were light
and played with the rapidity of light
ming about among the natives, and
when they began to put the belt under
his body, he smiled in his sardonic way,
and semeed to be saying: Just watch
me buck when they tighten that
cinch!" He seemed to labor under the
delusion that a saddle was being placed
on him. AT last the belt was fixed
the hook inserted in the ring, and the
mate blew his whistle to start the en-
gine.
Puff, puff-rattle, rattle the belt be-
gan to tighten and the mule thought it
time to buck" He elevated his back
until it grew round, and all four of his
feet left the ground at the same moment
Now came the surprise. He expected to
land fiat-footed in such a way as to
completely paralyze everything, but the
cinch frightened and his muleship swung
high in the air, until such a look Of dis
gust and amazement came over his
countenance as would make a fortune
for farce comedian. His gyrations,
kicks and struggles in midair soon
ceased, and he was gently lowered to
the deck. He seemed to have it in for
the mate, for every time that parsonage
came in sight the mules heels flew out
like springs toward him.
Before we reached Diamond Head the
supper gong sounded, and the passen-
gers hurried down to finish the meal be-
for we entered the channel, as the
chances were we would not enjoy it an
hour later. The channels between the
islands are never smooth, and seem to
be more dreaded by the inhabitants of
the islands than voyage to Japan or
san Francisco. The vessels which ply
between the islands are small, the sea
"choppy," and if one can make the tour
OF the islands in them without getting
seasick, he is proof against that NAL
ady. 1 had made seven ocean voyages
without feeling any of the disagreeable
effects of seasickness, and had begun to
boast myself a born sailor, but, alas,
the channel between Kauai and Oahu
took the conceit out of me.
At o'clock in the morning the stew
ard raped on the door of my stateroom
and said we were entering the. port of
Nawiliwili. I had not the slightest
idea where was to land, but somehow
instinctively felt that this must be my
destination. I awoke sleepy and cross
dressed hurriedly, seized my travelling
bag and artists portfolio, and left the
stateroom just as the anchor was
dropped.
Three ladies, myself, seven japanese
and fourteen Cinnamon were the pas
sengers to disembark. The harbor was
rot very rough, though the water was
slightly undulating. We were COM
PEELED to climb down a rope ladder and
enter boat manned by a crew of dusky