The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1896-08-01
EUROPEAN LETTER,
Travels in Spain and What One Meets
With.
From our Special Correspondent.


As one looks out of the latticed windows
of the Alhambra, the eye falls on group
of low yellow houses across the ravine.
The scene is romantic enough to arouse the
of an Esquimau. The pictu-
rescue city, with its vari~colored buildings
and rosed filled gardens; the hills covered
with grey olive trees, the dazzling snow OF
the Sierra Neyadas beyond. From this
window a princess doubtless leaned to
listen to the song of her lover, in the ravine
below; or perhaps the prisoner watched
anxiously for the signal of those who would
aid his escape. And the effect of the whole
is enhanced when the guide, noticing that
your glance is resting on the cluster of
houses, says 'That is the gypsy settle
ment
Perhaps nowhere better than in Spain
can one find examples of the pure Romany,
that strange people whose origin is I'M
known and who have retained, in spite of
their nomadic life, their own language and
customs. Tramps and vagabonds of all
varieties have chosen to style themselves
gypses; but the genuine race has an
individuality its own, which both Long
fellow and George Eliot have thought
worthy Of immortalizing in poetry.
On the evening of our arrival in Granada
the landlord asked if we wished to see the
gypsy quarters and see their dances the
next day. The Alhambra had so pre-
occupied our minds that we had not given
the gypsies a thought, and were not inter
ested in visiting them. But few days
later, after we had spent hours daily in
the literal castle in the air that was once
the palace of Moorish kings, we remember
ed our hosts suggestion and called a carri-
aye. Some English tourists who were stay
Ing at the same hotel joined us, and we
drove out of the city and up the hill. We
were surrounded ms soon as we stopped by
a crowd of gypsies-heavy hrowed, for
bidding looking men: black eyed girls
Offering to tell fortunes, smiling children
begging for pennies, witch like crones look
ing for something to steal. One man who
seemed to he spokesman at once opened
and asked if we wanted to see
the dances; it would cost us 81 p,sctas s.
for our party We declared that this was
much too expensive. How much would
we give? they asked. Fifteen p,setas, we
said. They declared that it could not be
thought Of every WE'LL" we answered,
and told the driver to return to the city.
But the gypscs hald a consultation, and
came down to thirty. We were inheIible.
Would we give twenty tive?' "No.'
Much haggling and discussion ensued, and
finally we compromised on twenty.
Promptly we were escorted to IA room,
" hich although probably the largest their
house contained, WAS small enough. We
sat around the walls, among friendly gypsy
spectators, and with clicking of castanets
md monotonous clapping of hands the
dances began. Every now and then their
friends would call to the performers as
Though to encourage them; but it seemed
for more animation and grace
have never seen. They danced all to.
Iether, in couple, and Singly: but always
with the same ease and freedom. One of
the best dancers was il young girl OF about
eighteen. | noticed thar in the pa,lses she
pick ed up and cares,td petty baby that
sat on the floor. mi nino", she said, in
answer to my lnquiTing glance. And
your huSband?" | asked, looking at a
young man who had been her partner in
the last dance. ''Oh no; he's in Cuba"
she answer d cheerfully and then, the next
dance being called she went on with as
much spirit as though her husband might
not at thas moment he languishing in
yellow fever hospital. The baby lit was
hardly Il year old clapped its hand and
swayed its tiny body in imitation of the
motion OF the Others. The prettiest dance
of all La ,Juta, they called it, was just
then being given as duo by its
mother and IA young man. 1t was delight
to watch their 1.-the untiring bodies their
that seemed inspired by the
caprice of the moments and the
obvious pleasure that they took in
dancing We paid them and drove away;
but part way down the hill half dozen of
them overlook us, insisting that one of the
. lcseta pieces about equal to a dollar
that we had piven them was false. Now
there is much counterfeit money in Spain,
but we were sure that that particular piece
of coin had nver passed through our fingers.
However, there was no use arguing the
case it was night the road was lonely,
and our driver evidently in sympathy with
the enemy. We gave them another five
pesetas and continued on our way, trying
to console ourselves with the reflection that
the dance was worth s., and that we had
done well to escape from the place with
our lives.
Doctor-l'm sorry to tell you, madam,
your husband will not live twelve hours.
Madam-Mcrcy And you made me