The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-04-12
NOTES.

what amusing tuatements In ~reSation to Amer
lean Rnstronom h and culinary methods. II Is
difficult TO divine fiom what sources they Gull
thCr informant on. one Of the latest reports
from abroad Is chat the club men Of Boston,
Washington, md New York now'import cooked
food. such as entrees. from Paris. Why Phil
adelphhl and Baltimore should be eliminated
from this list II Is difficult to surmise. unless
II be tn at the Philadelphia Club and'the Va y
land Clib OF Baltimore are so far above tho
! others in gastronomic excellence That they
need NIT search beyond their,own limits for
superior culinary productions. II Is asserted
in the journal quoted. tho Table, that the trssV
atlantic sSrvice Is so %punctual that club mon
invite PEG pie q week OF more In advance too
Joy on a certain day tho dishes that are ITO ,r-
rive from Paris by a particular steamer. 1ynis
fashion IS pot approved OF by the foreign cry.ic,
who says THAT IL has u depressing effect upon
local cooks. All Of this is pure inventio,L In
the first. place the raw material, here u, the
way Ut fOd is far more varied than hut OF
Europe, un d, in the second. Americans / awe at
their dispo sal as good cooks as may he found
n1E IeS here. t hilni ars fnlb th0 in S Sf ETa%t . . S some
Of the most accomplished culinary al lists Of
the entire world, 1t is due to the al hlity Of
these Oriental cooks that in many tow his west
of the Mississippi River as good cook Fry may
be obtained as in any part OF Eurone, II Amer
merely for The sake Of What the Fr Inch cali
bLdJue. There are here material. C oks, ser
1rhere on the globe. To assert that members
a representative clubs import coo ked food
J III airy resources OF those organization As.
Gdsssu's Saturday Journal. in q re rent issue.
| reca rds the gastronomic tastes of { Dme Of the
reigI ing sovereigns of Europe. Queen Vic.
| toris, It appears. Is devoted to GA tmeal soup.
She kkes pickled ~cucumbers. and l past beef Is
alwaN served. She drinks white sherry out
| OF a sil liver cup. According to a custom insti-
trtaJ Law GanrCs TT tbn mama of fIk. cook wbn
prepared q dish is announced when, 1t is placed
upon the table. The King and Gu cen of Italy,
/ when TIN, royal guests are exclusively italian,
revel I'm. spaghetti, garlic. oniorrs, and oil.
Fritto is~another favorite dish. II is made Of
artichokes. chickens iivers. calves brains.
and cocks combs. The Grand .Dudhess,of Ba.
den makes her own coffee, while her husband
Ngrows his own wine and is his'own headcellar-
man. Both delight In lentl soup, seasoned
with vinegar. and Frankfort sausages The
lnse is very simple in his tastes. His break
f. ,st consists Of II roll and cafe, au lait. For
d. u ner. which is eaten at l o'clock. he has
so, ap. meat, pastry, and fried pc tatoes.or other
vel '%etables,, Al this repast he Kinks a single
q z, ass OF claret and bouillon. and atthalf-past
10 ! supper COMPOSED Of cold meat and an
King oscar OF Sweden likes the national
dish Of raw SALMON nc hd preserved rs siaI in S earth and =
eTeara. IIf IN case - he is dePosed. lie is'V We'll
trained 70 conduct = boarding house: as ali
1 1Hs Efs inslrde Of q In r4@S.S likes hSe m spa, ife, a h sindi
of macaroni. and apple wine;, white the food
Of the Empress consists Of cold nrSts, fruits.
the juice of raw beefstcak. and tea. She Is
! to preserve her figure. The pre;,Pt Emperor
x AZ firch nc Dt eSai. who F ranks sl as csiSnsi H IN the
OF uted, an has under his comm md at court
ba uquets ABOUT 200, subordinatts. On ordi-
fom: sub, inJendants, thirty four llckeys. sixty
bun, t mouths, two chefs. and four'under chefs
are iA service.
In New York restaurants fre'Iuented by
people IN sea rich OF late suppers lar 90 numbers
of WelshNraNbits are ordered. The popularity
OF this d Ssh. apart from its cheapn .ss. is din.
cult to Jude stand, as 1t is certa fly trying
to persons of'weak digestion. Not many who
enjoy the conc cotton are aware that the term
Welsh appAled to IL Is a misnomer. 1t Is
of Swiss origin, and is made there OF eggs and
cheese. 1t is now universally eaten with u
fork, but at ons time, through the ignorance
or inadvertence of n French prelate, IT became
the fashion to use a spoon. Brillat-Savarin
relates how this innovation came into being.
NJ. de Madot. town the end OF the seventeenth
century, was appointed to the bishoprio of
his diocese u great feast was prepared in his
honor. and among the dishes WAS an enormous
all, sse ed'S "a spoon instead Of a Tor foPk sI in esstn nj
it. This violation Of convention caused great
sst9ntSnmsa s,a and . wnhan TIN three sn,d months oi En aspcs
as to the proper implement TO employ, In
and since that time II has been generally used.
The recipe for Swiss raEebit is different from
Traiiet. BaiIif Of the Canton de Berne: Take
as many eggs ss you wish, according to the
taxe q piece OF ciAese u third OF the weight OF
the eggs, and a sliss Of butter weighing a sixth.
p nSs' in a"' the butter and Cheese, the lat.
Ter either grated or cut up in small pieces;
s ri4eS with The a T Sat sSoop ON antlIl tfSSsd mi itSi r Ssl
comes sufficiently thit& and smooth. Add q
serve serve ' IN a "n hot '" dlsR. '| The A M pispRsr recipe sRs
omits the eggs, except a single one poached
S H.IIs placed d. Oh ,bs top S Of the ,l sSrG = sx,. Il r Is The oF !;
best cooked In u hot water bath.
EnglIshmen, with their usual obstinacy, for
"A long time after they anne into possession OF
India chung To the.heavy. dishes OF their ma
tive land. East Indians are excellent cooks,
and particularly skilled In the preparation OF
hashes. stews. and haricots, which are essen
TALLY suited TO the hot climate OF India. All
the early bnoKs relating to life IN that country
describe the quality and quantity of food
which Englishmen consumed at their meals.
\ regular dinner In the old times consisted ot
Il hehNy soup, Il tufkey' Il nam, II slrloln or
round Of beef. u saddle of mutton, legs OF the
same boiled or roasted, fowls, a goose. ducks,
tongues, turnips, pigeon pies, curry and rice,
mutton chops, and chicken outlets. THE was
the tirst course, The second was composed OF
heefstcaks, various sorts of game, and fruit.
Fish were eaten only at breakfast. The table
cloths were ot cotton made in India, and
formed AN homogeneous contrast with splendid
appointments Of silver, The glasses were MT
ted with covers to keep out files. and were
| never changed. No decantrrs were used. In
stead, the bottles were wrapped In Wetted
cloths, red for port, claret, and burgundy, and
white for sherry and Madeira. Within the
past half century all that has been changed.
.AnglO-I Indians have discovered, at consider
tiye dishes ia essential 10 health Nforeovrr
many Fast indian sauces now prime f~Gvorites
with AnglO-lndlans have become known to OC-
cidental %epigures. AmonR them Is ono OF
supreme excellence which is highly recon.
meuded for cold meats. fowl, or game1 II Is
made as follows; Take d half handful Of green
mint leaves, and reduce them to a paste with
lemon Juice III n stone mortar; when thor
oughly reduced remove with a wooden spoon
TO a clean, dry saucer. Then. take one large