Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1896-10-08
A Visit to the "Queen of the Pacific,
Oahu, Honolulu.

In the busy life of Matron of an
Indian School one gets small leisure for
correspondence, hence my letters are
few and far between though | realize
and appreciate the advantage of writing
to many at one time through the
REPORTER columns instead of individu-
ally to the many whose kindly interest
follows the writer through many
wanderings. The REPORTER is My most
welcome visitor. 1t never fails to bring
me glad news of prosperity of friends,
of happy weddings, reunions and social
gayetles; of sad partings, and deaths,
and losses. OF many things that keep
me in touch with friends of other days.
| have recently received the appoint
ment of field matron over an extended
territory with headquarters at Tacoma,
Washington. 1t is less arduous and
| more remunerative, besides giving me
an opportunity to study Indian life and
| characteristics IN the far west. Will
give you some Of the results of my
| observations IN future letter.
Failing in health and needing rest and
change, | decided to spend my annual
vacation in sea voyage and visit to the
Sandwich Islands, rightly called 1.-The
Queen of the Pacific"
Leaving Tacoma we Miss Toan, a
teacher III the Government school here,
and myself) enjoyed an all day trip up
Puget's Sound and across the straits of
Juan-deFuca to Victoria, B. G.. In a
previous letter to the REPORTER I've
described some of the beautiful scenes
offered by this trip. To the east and to
the west long ranges of mountains
trlnged with primeval forests and
topped with snow covered peaks; rocky
headlands, innumerable islands, broad
stretches of water or narrow passes,
and from hundred different points of
vision Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker rival
each other for supremacy in the artists
eye. In the same letter [ described
Victoria, B. c., where we again spent
four days while waiting for the delayed
steamship "Miowera" bound for China.
At last one evening we boarded the
steamer and after travelling all night as
we supposed, we found ourselves, on
emerging from our cabin, still in the
fog blocking our way. Until 2 .. m. we
waited impatiently, when suddenly the
fog lifted and we got under way. AS we
rounded Cape Flattery some hours later
and realized what were the dangers of
its rocky coast line with its hidden reefs
and history Of ships and lives lost, of
treasure and hopes sacrificed, we were
devoutlv thankful for the waiting. On
that first day out we sighted eight ships,
two big steamers and six sailing vessels,
then for seven days 1--WE sailed the
Ocean blue" with speck to break the
blue of sea and sky. The sea a deep
sapphire hue such as | had never seen,
changing to emerald in every shade and
tint where the prov cut the waves. At
night, leaning over the railing, we
would watch the phosphorescent spar
kles and CLEANS of fire that seemed
veritable gems of purest rays. 1t was
all beautiful, restful, health giving.
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Turn to the biographies for statistics
if you wish them; size, location, popu-
lation, government, are all given in
brlefer sentences than | can coin
Lacking time to visit other places of
interest we reluctantly gave up the
Volcano, the country sights, huge sugar
plantations, &c, &c.
The city of Honolulu is Americanized
i'll habits, customs and architecture.
The government is in the hands of
Americans, the principal offices are
filled by Americans, the schools are
taught by American teachers, American
preachers fill the pulpits and American
audiences listen. There is native
church where we attended and listened |
to native preaching and singing in soft |
musical tones unlike the deep gutterals |
of our native Indian.
The natives seem to be born to the |
saddle no less than to the sea. One of |
the sights we could not tire of was to |
watch the natives in their pointed |
canoes, going out from the beach to
meet The "league-long roller" and |
waiting for big one, turn their boat |
shoreward and fearlessly ride it to |
shore, repeating this play for hours
Sometimes the huge waves would seem
to swallow them, but as they rolled over
and broke, the little boat would rise
triumphant and the shouts of laughter
from fearless sailors would dispeI our
fears. At night little companies ride at
breakneck speed through the principal
streets singing and shouting merrily.
Life to them seems an endless holiday.
All day native women OF the poorer
class sit on the sidewalks and weave
garlands of flowers for sale, happy if
at night they've earned supper of raw
fish and pol. If they have been
prosperous they will perchance spend
the surplus silver to RIDE HOME IN
HACK, the he plus ultra of happiness to
a native Hawaiin. In the early morn
ing the stores are alive with customers
and all buy to the extent of their purse
-anything-calico, or garlands of flow
ers that fade in a day, only so that they
can spend their money. The stores are
all kept by Chinese or Japanese, and
cheap goods are the rule prices ranging
higher than in the L. S.
The restaurants, markets, fruit stalls
also are run by the Chinese. The prin-
cipal labor is performed by them. The
government is under treaty to allow
contracts to be made for Chinese labor,
and thousands are imported under
contract to work for two years for $500,
out of which their masters manage TO
get a big percentage back in charges,
fines and fees. Ralo patches, banana
fields, rice swamps, truck gardens, cane
pineapple patches, all are
worked by deft fingered Cinnamon.
Natives fish, drive hacks, loaf about
and manage to subsist. Many, however
are capitalists by Inheritance
There are free native schools, free
hospitals, free churches and benevolent
homes. The climate is always summer
and life goes on easily. The great charm