The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-12-05
eB1nAH AND lMERIoAE o1sn
The Tive nparod- which IL ths nrors
WhoieaomeV

The Tive Compared which IL che Arors
Whoiesoneb
To THE EDITOR OF THE uH-Str I translate
from the Stats Zeituno this German criticism
OF our American diet and manner of eating;
sixty per cent. OF American business mon. a ply
sSian mas SAG, are dyspeptic, and nobody: SO FAR.
cause; too, Of the spreading OF the mslsdy. The
especially 40 at lunch time. II seems to him n rob.
berry TO take time for lunch. lie runs into the near
hot cake, .corncd beef and cabbage, pork and beans.
s Oh o MS,,, heavy 'o bn mssl nm di 4rsl1ns S az d ,ss s'm sn Sns ssls
and nervous until mis- order is niied aud he is served.
thin. hi s' SS'f ms Sss mSsI an and 7 r &srTy' to sSf his pis SSsr q
business; The result: sixty per cent; dsSpSps,ss.
a restaurant. Every one has Q direreut Iemedy
waters "a isS%'G to 81 suffer- RsPy the most. IN Somes ~
who has TO be In tho ONCE at . o'clock. nm
or. a Rlaas OF boiling water in g hu'rgi" mts
mesn 'i n ne , reads ttnnss c Snn I potstecs and n cones.
He drinks the hot water as quickly as possible be.
enters another man into the restaurant. He has a
5,undle under his arm. He opens IT. an ! takes out OF
salt. Tho bread is baked for hin, to order; He says
fT,' OILY cat" frtcd means without any salt: Here i.
another. the partner to the man with the bread
ali evii.' lie brings a piece of stale bread every
day and ORDERS with his meals ;'als eresd, o ne
This is his supply for The neat day. in contrast TO
a thick layer Of salt. Next comes a CUES, who after
each meal takes IA small paper out or his pocket:
~ SH1saln is d I R6"f fsIier hs I tsis power @E %orss sf IN
place Of tn" ,n stomach InSsT lanai WalG n n Is ,. non thin : s mnn' Win
q yellow face. He comes three times q day into the
s sisss cofes and and ff eass S ssSd Wit, WITH tx Il. c This M man SsfiIi live:
only on coffee uhe drink OF the Levanil and tells
will make you both healthy and happy.
To most American observers It appears al
most incomprehensible that tho German-Amer-
lean residents OF New York who are regular
patrons Of tho "Germsn restaurants" 80 called,
are not chronic sufferers from dyspepsia In ttn
most serious and obstinate phases. Veal. no
toriously the least digestible form OF meat diet.
IL 4 found In every German restaurant as o ptece
de resistance. usually roast veal or veal cutles
Dreaded with lard and Observation-Disclosures
schnitzel. Pork, roast or fried, Is to be founa
usually, and with veal and pork such indi-
Restible accessories as red cabbage. sauerkraut,
or noodles-dough balls. The favorite soup on
the bills Of far. Of German restaurants in New
York are not the Wholesome English beef
broth. the French pot-duteu. or tho Italian
beef or macaroni, but black bean soup with
chopped sausage. Fish, which in American
restaurants is boiled by preference. Is fried In
German restaurants. Instead of heefsteaks.
broiled to retain the most savory juices Of the
meat. there is to be found in German restau-
rants the familiar Hamburger steak of chopped
meat-burned usually on the outside and un-
derdcne within-a fried egg being added for
symmetry. Liver balls. liver sausage, fried
pork snusaGeu, blood pudding hose are the
substitutes in German restaurants in New
York for steaks or prime cut of roast beef.
The pot roast" a restaurant favorite on The
cast side Of town in German restaurants. lie a
variation, less pa,atable and less dlgestible. OF
the French beef q la mode. The regetables
which find most favor in Gerniun Restaurants.
In addition to cabbage. are beans, boiled pota-
toes. and spinach. For dessert there are pud-
N ~ md ~ ~ tANt tNDa Y1F. AnDlafi1naG fna in
cheese of the cheap sort. and invariably coffee.
The bread ser led to customers in herman res
firm and hard-or cake of n wooden variety
ornamented with sugar symbols or car.way
seeds-cake not easy 20 break or to eat. With
meals, in German restaurants in New York.
beer, usually very cold. u deterrent 10 diges-
be generally no compliance with any, OF tho
fundamental rules OF gastronony. Digestion
is embarrassed. not assisted, by everlasting,
unnecessarily. the powers of the stomach, and
the heaviest fare seems to be preferred.
But 1t is at supper time that the German
American bull of fare seems most peculiar to
the American observer. With beer. the cue
tomary drink at all meals except breakfast. are
served hot sausace-. GELS in Jelly. herr.n- salad.
herrirgs picked with cloves, cold potato salad.
picked salmon; ,saucrkraut, tartar Steak. raw
The theory which underlies the practice OF Ger-
man restaurant keepers 0pfrars to be that tina
stomach OF the patron should. 80 :nr as possible,
be Kept cold, while lie notion OF American,
English. French. and Italian restaurant keep
e ena n as ye epnS IS IS Sl ,sHr 5 ~ mn I'D t x' d;ge wafm'
and it is a view " the ease which no physician
will ever s~riousl. DISPUTE.
Field salads Germans do not. in their res
taurants in New YORK. apparently care 'or.
Fish tLcy usunl!y serve without sauce. Rad
iShes. especially large ones. they prefer to
olives: pickles. especially very large ones. they
prefer Ia Mushrooms. and carrots and turnips
to string lean and tomatoes. Goose is pre-
fcrrcd to chicken. and veal and pork chops to
lam or mutton chops. invariably.
The GernH MA mericans of New York are. as
a rule. healthy and hearty. Their restaurants
are ratTon!zed by many, persons who ARE not
Germans. bnt wherein the German method OF
cooking can be defended. as superior in whole
somrness to the American. unless on patriotic
and sentimental grounds by Germans no man