The San Francisco call., 1896-04-19


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worn an entire season without having to
be consigned to the laundryman if occa-
sionally pressed.
For seaside hops bright girl is having
a silk glIgham made up into one OF the
most fetching frocks 1 have seen. The
gingham has white ground, with bright
orange stripes and white satin dots. A
little yellow satin, few yards of mousse
line de sole and several yards of white lace
enter into its composition.
! think our girls are generally modest in
their expenditures on summer hats, Tor
New York correspondent writes, from
three to four hats are quite indispensable
Gf one intends to be at all smart) during
the summer season." The same writer
makes good remark. She says:
1t is dangerous thing to have horticul-
tural enthusiasms when ordering or
selecting bat of the new order where
space on crowns and brim afford such
broad sweeps for self-indulgence. The
thing to avoid is this over-trimming,
ner OF la mode itself, to destroy our bon
gout. To the happy mean must one look
for lasting satisfactions and most alluring
appearances. 1t follows then that limi-
tation to our expenditures is a capital safe
guard, hindering US from dishguring our
selves ny UldSScS Oi SOTSeOuSuGSS, anu
wild lncongruities. The expression wild
incongruities exactly expresses the ap-
pearance presented by many of the
chapeauX 10 be seen on all sides. They are
simply wonderful and dreadful, great glar-
ing pink roses perched aggresSively beside
bachelor buttons or the yellowest OF cow
slips next forget-me-nots, and such great
punches of ings. l shudder when | re-
call some of them and sigh whan think
ing of many of the pretty sweet faces that
are under these flower gardens. | say
again, try to avoid top-heavy bats. Exert
your individual taste, if you have any,
and of all things try to find milliner
who values her reputation for chic too
highly to send her customers home
monstrosities.
Parasols are now receiving their share of
consideration, and well worthy are they of
both our admiration and commendation
as we'll, for they are deliciously pretty
and artistic. Silk-covered ones are still
shown with Dresden flowers, but large con-
ventional designs in flowers OF silk having
white or dark ground are newer, and
those having plain or China silk borders
or shaded colors are shown and those COM
posed OF plaided silks are also to be had.
The pure white parasols are sore tempta-
tions for the pretty girls with limited al
lowances, for they must be covered with
fine net or lace frills or with chiffon,
NAlCn CdI NC Willie SOIllN JlHLcQ 10
match the lining. One girl had last sum-
mer white silk foundation covered with
ruffies of a lovely fowered gauze; the
ruties she had frequently changed: first
the parasol was frilled with gauze cov-
cred with wild roses, then with one
sprayed with buttercups. 1t next ap-
peared gorgeous with poppies and l have
no doubt that it will do good service again
this season.
Very effective is parasol of white satin,
covered with heavy white silk net en-
broldered in quaint geometrical designs.
1t has deep ruffie of black chiffon. The
handle is white, with large Dresden knob
painted in black and purple. This is
the property of pretty widow, and this
reminds me that fashion has decreed that
even those in the deepest mourning ca
wear dead white. The Princess of Wales
always does so, and it IS a usual custom in
Europe, and g. very sensible one in all re-
spects, especially in the summer time.
see that novelty in parasol covering
is being well received. 1t is sold apart
from the parasol. and is found in various
sheer fabrics, more or less washable. These
coverings are said to be most useful, and
are made OF white net in series of full
ruffies, or of dotted nets. Perhaps the
most useful are of sheer muslin lace
edged, and deep ruffies of Valenciennes
are much liked.
AmoHB Tue HoSt CHIC gowns TO De seen
are those of mousseline de sole. They
are simply lncrusted with laces and come
in not only plain and solid colors, but in
"chine effects of two shades of the same
color as well"
Black tulle gives a Frenchy touch to
many toilettes and is most extensively
used, being unusually becoming.
Eton and Figaro jackets appear in
many delightful ia brics and com binations.
Black grenadines, in multitude of open
designs, are to be, worn over colored taffe-
tas. One NeLYs tsiiful gown is of cross
barred grssaT aT{S Dyer pale green satin. the
color shows wsNintytkrough the bars. The
skirt and bodice are cut in one at the back,
the front of the waist being crossed upon
one side with large buttons studded with
emeralds. placed artistically below the
wait The bodice is prettily finished at
the neck, being cut away in narrow
square and filled in with cream velvet out
lined with beautiful lophophore embroid-
cry.
Women with any pretensions to style
all possess at least one smart tailor gown,
and as critic remarks, "the tailor cos
tune Is more classical than it has been for
the last few seasons The sleeves are
smaller, the jackets shorter and the godet
has vanished, and the skirts, although
plain, demand the greatest care in the cut,
everything depends on the fit. and the
for ease of movement, and it must be well
shaped to the hips. In spite of the varied
weaves in alpaca and mohair which are to
De had serge holds its own, blue and black
being always in demand, and now dark
shade OF red is much used in Paris. A
gown of this fabric. worthy '6f our admira-
tlon, has an extremely de p hem, which is
quantity braided with fancy black braid
its short coat with full basque, shows an
inner waistcoat of black watered silk.
which in its turn reveals q shirt front OF
tucked lawn. The linen collar turns down
over bandana silk lie, which shades
into green. With this costume is worn a
hat of dark red straw, trimmed with dark
red and green sacarves of tule and a
great bunch of crimson roses With their
leaves. Black suede gloves gave the finish
ing touch.
A most satisfactory gown present this
week of dark green tweed, which comes
from one OF London's best tailors. the cane
and skirt of the tweed, with facings of
white cloth and the small buttons are of
gold. The blouse. which completes the
dress, is of green Irish poplin, with t.
latest sleeves, which fit tightly to the
shoulders, with large. puffy looking