The San Francisco call., 1896-03-15

velvet ribbon, and this reminds me that
in Paris black velvet ribbon upon lace is
quite the rage, and black velvet trimming
will adorn almost all of our summer gowns,
and will beautify the most fashion
able fchus and in combination with
frills of lace and lace insertions will form
the new sleeve. A correspondent says:
s'The top portion of the new sleeve may be
frilled in this fashion, while the lower por-
ton, which is to commence about six
inches above the elbow, a point not to be
forgotten, can be formed of the lace
wrinkled tightly around the arm. On a
rounded arm the transparent lace sleeve
wrinkied is quite charming. The woman
who is, however, unfortunate in the pos
session of a fat arm should abjure its
attractions. AS waistcoat for the open
coat, which is certain to be as popular as
ever it was, the white lace frills and the
black velvet trimming will be most effec-
tive. Another piece OF fashionable intelli-
gence that have cleaned is that braid is
to be once more in favor. A plain skirt
looks exceedingly well trimmed with gra-
duated lines of braid up to the knees, ana
this may be completed with one OF the new
short boleros, which escape the waist by
three inches, and hang loose and straight
at the back and front"
Stout women should rejoice that the
latest skirt being moderate in dimensions
has a tendency to increase their height
and slenderness by having less fullness at
the sides, the tube-like folds are gone.
All the new fat trimmings are on black,
white or colored nets; thus delightful
effect is gained.
Mohair is said to make stylish and de-
lightfnlly inexpensive dresses. A good
model has a severely simple skirt, well
hung, made walking length. The bodice
should be round with fiat plait in the
back; the fronts are to have about seven
small tucks on each side, as n setting for
a broad chine ribbon with melange Of
orange, browns and blues sifted together
and gliding into half-distinct figure,
which the newest chine ribbons have
way of doing. This forms pretty blouse,
the girdle being a narrow fold of chine
ribbon completed by frisky little bow at
the left side.
Now that many are going to play golf
answer for both may have the skirt cut on
the ordinary principle, which should not
measure over three yards (but two and
half yards are sufficiently round the hem,
and fasten at one side. The usual covert
coat, with medium sleeves and no fullness
in the basque. has been found satisfactory.
An excellent material tor this purpose is a
Venetian cloth of a cedar tone. A Tam
O. Shanter of the same material, with
three or five black quilts at one side, is
suitable. With this can be worn, for
golfng, q scarlet waistcoat fastened with
small gold buttons, which is cut SO as to
show a white shirt and pretty tie. When
cycling a Tattersall vest is good form.
A tailor gown which can be made to
serve on many occasions has a coat of
medium length, made of black cloth,
turning back to the waist on straight
line from the neck, with white satin
braided with narrow black braid. The
vest of this is of white satin, and at the
neck should be worn cravat of fine lace.
The sleeves are of the new style, and
belt of black satin finishes the waistcoat.
With other vests the results are equally
good if the coat is not faced with white
satin.
The warm weather again inclines US to
consider seriously light pretty fabrics.
Chiffon, although an expensive luxury, is
to be more generally used than formerly.
A waist of waved chiffon, accordion
pleated, having a square yoke of cream
colored lace insertion, with satin rosettes,
is charming in any light shade. A blouse
of shot silk, with box pleat down the
back, frilled front and a deep square
collar OF cream -colored muslin and lace
cut into tabs and trimmed with smany
frills of lace and insertion, is useful and
ornamental affair. slender debutante
would be especially fetching in a bodice of
white chiffon made full between rows of