The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-09-20

novelty of the hour-the Ii Hung
Chang tea jacket 1t is modelled after
Lis own official yellow jacket, but one
doesn't have to be viceroy to wear it.
A pretty woman will answer the pur-
pose just as we'll
Not only has Worth made fashiona-
bic China's most celebrated decoration,
the yellow jacket, but he has also given
distinction to the Celestial empires
other noted insignia of honor, the three
eyed peacock feather.
The new tea jacket is deliberately en-
broidered with peacock feathers, and
the old superstition of their being I'M
lucky is fast being forgotten.
Some way, just how no one is willing
to say, the Ii Hung Chang tea jacket
has reached New York. One of the best
dressmakers in town has an order for
three of these negligee jackets. Her
customers are prominent society wo-
men.
Now for the jacket itself. which is
such a skilful combination of Chinese
and Partisan ideas. 1t is a oose-fitting
coat reaching a few inches below the
line, and is admirably adapted for
lounging purposes. Gay yellow silk of
a rich quality is the material of which
it is made. The jacket hangs straight
and full from the collar both back and
At the neck is a dashfng yellow silk
bow, which is tied with long ends
reaching below the jacket itself. These
ends are gorgeously embroidered with
three-eyed peacock feathers; the eyes
are formed of glistening jewels. The
idea of the large bow with its flowing
ends is exclusively French. Ii Hung
Chang's Jacket is finished at the neck
with nothing but straight collar band.
I, =. IL
embroidered with peacock feathers,
and a band of these embroidered jewel
studded feathers also edge the flowing
sleeves.
There is nothing French about the
sleeves. They are wholly and entirely
Chinese. They are made of exactly
square pieces of silk and are plain, full
and flowing, the typical Chinese sleeve.
Not only are they finished outside with
an embroidered band Of peacock feath
ers, but the same design is worked on
the inside of the sleeve at the edge.
=
There is a decided change this sea-
son in the newest French night gowns.
In the more costly ones the fluffy effect
of many lace rufies has departed. The
latest novelty is to have the night robe
appliqued with lace designs. Such
laces as Ducfesse, Cluny and real Val
enciennes are used in this new fashion
most effectively.
One of the prettiest of these French
night gowns is made of sheer nainsook
A narrow line Of beading trims the
front as far as the waist line. and also
defines the shape Of a, pointed yoke
back and front. The neck is cut a tribe
low. Conventional designs of Duchesse
lace are apphqued by the yoke. They
also trim the deep frill which falls
over the sleeves and the shoulders. In
addition to this, and adding an extreme
touch of novelty to the gown, the lace
designs are appliqued over the front of
the night robe They appear as if
cdrelessly scattered upon it, and reach
from the yoke to just below the waist
line.
The sleeves of the gown are three
quarter length, and quite full. They
are finished with frill of the nainsook,
upon which more lace designs are ap-
plqued. The frill is tied with blue
satin ribbons caught in a careless bow.
AT the throat the same colored ribbons
form a rosette. Such a night gown
costs $25.
Ribbon rosettes this season are more
in favor than ribbons tied in a bow
with long ends.
The imported silk lingerie was never
more bewilderingly beautiful than this
season. There are night dresses pretty
enough for tea gowns, and dainty
French made matinees which really
would grace a drawing-room.
The best wearing Of the silk night
gowns are made of the softest India
silk. They are trimmed either with
lace or are hand embroidered.
One seen recently, which was a trifle
more simple than the others, was made