The morning times., 1896-09-27
STUNNING NOVELTIES
In DESIGN AND COLOR
Newest Winter Weaves Are
Striking in Effect.


faced cloths. as the tailors call them, are
seen. but they no longer have the first
place, as last winter, in fashionable favor.
| The ne W stuffs are lowered. ribbed. striped.
weayes. some showing changeaole colpr
! effects that are very handsome. The ze-
belize Novelties are especially beautiful.
| The new makes in these cloths are even
| lighter In weight and more silky to the
touch than those Of last year; indeed all u
| the ne W stuffs look asif manufacturers had
| this lightness OF weight in mind as web
AS thickness and warmth.
| The reform was badly needed, for since
the era Of crinoliDe aud wide skirts, with
the old heavy stuffs, the weight of a
| modish winter gown has been a serious
| drawback to the peaee and health OF many
| women There is one reason perhaps that
| plain cloths are going out. They could
not be made as light weight as rough or
1 clingiDg textures, ard SO are to he put
On liie sliei' wlt-I the Stout ndirciotns lno
| linen canyasses once used for stiffening,
| and cried down by doctors and sensible
folk.
| One of the nouveautes in the zebeIines
is covered with long silky black hairs on
Il colored ground, in the making IIain
| weave being often used in combination
with this
! There are also many itch plain colors,
| superb dahlia reds and puppies, and
heather mixtures in these camel's hair
woods. for. Of course, zebeline is only an
other name for camei's hair. A com
biDation OF the strange metallic blues and
greens that distinguished the summer in
also much seen; and. indeed. this curious
green and blue coloring. first confined
to hat trimmings and taffeta shirt waists,
threatens to be marked feature of many
OF the winter modes.
In numbers OF the wool materials IL liz
even seen in combination with several her
shades, as background for checks or
piaids, or showing in even mixtures.
Inc result Is fascinatingly novel and. as
rule. extremely uBbecoming.
Many handsome erays and Combinations
oI black and white are seen in these soft
wo"ts. ard still others combine bright
violet moss green. and waIIflower Wei.
low with web of black threads. black
stripes. or nbs. softening the whole.
Inc new boucle cloths have also much Of
The camel's hair softDess and fineness OF
the zeheiines. but the little loops OF cIoscIy-
CURED hair which cover these areno longer
scattered irregulariy. but are arranged
IN set patterns. like the figures of brocade
On design OF a deep purple back
ground covered with great black punches
OF grapes and leaves. the hair loops were
inas>ed so closely together that they had,
The effect OF velvet. Black velvet OF
course. would be the trimming for This
nu' toucie wool. because Of it, furry
look alone. is more suited to winter tina,
autumn Use.
n'ik lines. cords or waved creponaIed
figures of silk, with the raised effect of
broc'ide, are seen in some of the lighter
WOODS Tor autumn use, but there are ALI
wool hrccddes with only "a contrast i'm
color that are less expensive and verv
effective.
Many of the old basket weavcs are seen
III PLAIN and notified hornespuu and in
plain SOFT woods on the op-sackinr order
Wide and barrow ottoman cords dis,ip-
Guish Others, and silks as well. and some
or the basket woods are so loosely woven
that they are open as lattic,. work
these. however, are only shown in short
lengths and are not intended to be used
Tor ~ entire gown
They are imported as vesting. In N.
placed over silks in a contrasting co,or
The tint of the gown material matchin,
the lattice
smart yestings for tailor gowns Of
plain material are the same smooth En,-
hsh cloths. known at the taiIors as Tat
tersaHs. that appeared in the spripp
lhey are also in about the same DESIGNS
pinhead dots or stars of tan. white.
black or red on other color grounds. or
else bold plads and checks that are m
horsey as can be.
WIN the TattersalI vest 4 stand-up linen
collar and narrow bow-tie will no i'm
order. and 1t is claimed by dress,nar.r,
that this neat neck finish will often an
pear with the dressy gowns as well eve,
with those of rich materials and mpcb
fGrbciowed
d! way OF illustration of the Imminent
possibility of this. one faiSeuse Of repp.
tation showed two ravishing promeuoJ.
toilets with stiff linen Collars and Chemi-
se''e attachments The latter were
iihely tucked and dciieatciy embroidered
between in vines and around the high
eollars-with bent points at the 'front.'
We're arranged the Harlow black satin
ties which have beer SO important a fea-
ture or dress this summer
The gowns were respectively Of yerc-
tian cloth. showing in the diagonal wear
a rich plum under black and q soft
black and white maggie" wool. The
design of this last was rarrowish gnred
skirt trimmed with fine relied folds OF
black velvet and q loose scc-iacket with
small velvet revers. The chapeau in its
train was equally ravishing and carried
out the black and white effect OF the
gown.
little turban of folded black velvet
was the shape. from one iaunty side of
which fioated a white paradise aigrettr.
held down by Il round let ornament. The
whole thing was too sedusant' to quote
the faseuse
The Venetian cloth had a close habit
bodice. V-shaped ut the neck to show the
linen chemisette. and was niagnificcutIy
braided with black
Wool Sicilienne.'' a glossy material.
with raised cord is the name OF one OF
the new gown sttuffs for street wear
''velours brocade" is the title of another,
which is sort Of mixed cloth in rich
tones OF several colors, subdued by irreg-
ular designs or eccentric arabesques Of
black velvet over the surface. Some
times this black velvet over-pattcrn will
have the designs formed by narrow lines
which gives the look of a soft braiding
over the rich background.
As to new colors along with the mad
greens and blues mentioned there is new
blue that Is almost as intense as the old
fashioned royal tint. 1t is softer than
mazasine withoutany OF the black or purple
OF the many shades and is known as marine
hlue