The San Francisco call., 1896-03-29


N week observed by all the Chris
tian world, and during it no
large affairs will take place, but we will
probably continue to hear discussed the
latest engagements, the reception which
will follow a certain quiet home wedding,
the last luncheon at the University Club,
the most lovely hats seen at the openings,
the merits OF small sleeves over large ones
and the hang of the most fashionable
skirts; so topics of conversation are not
lacking.
Almost every day in Easter week is
already crowded with engagements, and
on every side we hear OF teas, lunch, card,
dinner and theate- parties and speaking
of theaters reminds me that on Wednes-
day the Century Club gave pretty recep-
ton to Mrs. Royle, who has made many
friends in this City by her charming and
unaffected manners. This same club has
also issued invitations for its annual break
fast, invitations for it being always in
great demand, as they are always for the
D. A. R. receptions.
I hear rumors of more than one stag
dinner which VIII be given in the near fu-
ture, but OF course such things do not in
terest Us. However, the charity concert
Will be so excellent, l hear, that all will
readily part with some of their ducats to
help the good cause. The list of patron
esses makes its success a foregone conclu-
sion.
Gowns for bridesmaids and the sweetly
pretty graduates Will shortly command
our serious attention, ana one lovely New
York maiden will wear at a wedding
which takes place Easter week delightful
French gown, composed of a new silk
gauze wonderfully ethereal in texture. 1t
looks as though the threads composing il
were made OF woven sun and moon beams.
1t is made over lustrous buttercup satin,
the sleeves being composed entirely of
Marechal Mel roses; they are moderately
large and scarcely reach the elbow. Rose
petals and rose leaves trim the bodice, and
they are used with rare artistic results, as
the whole dress is so delicately beautiful
but q word picture does 1t injustice.
With it will be worn slippers of
yellow satin and hat made to go with it,
a dream composed of roses, lace and dew
drops, and when have we ever seen such
artificial flowers as can now be purchased?
They are marvels of artistic beauty and
wonderful are the flagree laces which are
indeed costly novelties, being OF gold or
silver which initiates perfectly the gold
and silver work of the Deccan and also the
filigraine employed by the lovely daugh-
ters of Holland to make their becoming
peasant caps with, and far from being
stiffy it is soft and pliable and falls in grace
ful folds. But to return TO my graduates
the most youthful, those who still have
few years of school before them, they
should wear only simple gauzes, organdies
or muslins made up in youthful
manner, but for those about to leave
college glace taffetas and Dresden
silks are sometimes appropriate with
white or light grounds, as in most
cases after graduation comes the
debut, when bud is truly attractive in
snowy white with just a rose or so. Young
girls make such a mistake in desiring to
dress like young women who were buds
some six or eight years ago. However,
few girls can be made to realize the fact
that the white muslin, so much talked
about, has a rare and mysterious attrac-
ton for almost all men, and I suppose even
the new girls have not ceased TO feel
mild pleasure in being admired by the
masculine sex. | will leave the discussion
OF the style for such frocks for week or
SO. as then l will be ready with the latest
styles.
All of US who have not as yet secured
our hats and bonnets still feel an interest
in millinery, and Vogue, I see, makes this
week valuable suggestion: Gas women
along the fifties have invariably gray if
not white hair, the proper selection of their
bonnets requires great care, without which
they are in danger of looking loud and
conspicuous. a black lace ard Jet bonnet
runs no danger OF going amiss, neither
does one in black and gold, black and steel
or black and white. But as tulle bonnets
are to be the summers rage, there is
further choice in dark blue, cranberry red,
ivy-green and orchid mauves. 1t is under
hoT 4i,nr- ~
lace flowers and ribbons in a way suitable
to mature years"
A good imported hat for young girl is
somewhat OF the mushroom shape of chif-
fon straw OF shot heliotrope. Ribbon bows
and outspreading wings are in the center,
while on either side rests spray of mauve
lilac, and at the back is a bunch of yiolets,
Whether we like it or not we are to wear
our hats well over our foreheads, for the
fashionable cache -peigne across the back
OF all large hats pushes them over the eyes,
completely concealing the front hair.
noted French Dliiliner has Just sent
out a large black hat of sequin covered
crinoline; pleated chiffon edges the brim,
and punches of rose-colored and white
azaleas nestle beneath and upon it. She
also produces a novel effect in a picture
hat by placing black ostrich tips beneath
the brim so as to be visible at the sides.
This hat is adorned with black and cerise
tulle.
Moss green straw blended with black
chenille is becoming to most women, and
the newest toques are so stylish that they
will be much in demand. For a garden
party one made of cream horsehair edge
with Valenciennes lace, trimmed with
small punches OF violet and completed bv
large outstanding bow of maize ribbon, is
said to be very fetching. Great bows of
chine or pompadour ribbon form the
trimming for many a stylish hat in COM
bination with few bunches or sprays of
flowers.
For the ever-useful coat and suit COM
bination the principal materials used are
serge, alpaca and covert coating; however,
blue serge is really the most useful and be-
coming, and those who can afford it are
indulging in the newest and smartest
waistcoats, which are made of pIeated
tulle, hanging from a bow at the neck.
These are delightful affairs, but even with
the greatest care will only last week. if
worn daily. The best London tailors are
trying hard to introduce the close-ftting
coatsIeeves. but one of the swellest reports
that he recently made two coats with
quite tight sleeve. and had them returned
for large ones to be substituted. and it is
only in tailor suits that the really small
sleeve is likely to be tolerated. In other
gowns the sleeve puffed on the top holds
its own, the sole difference in outline con-