The San Francisco call., 1896-04-26

Jewels on grOundWork OF Wnlte mousse
line. This costs only 81 so per yard in
New York. Many of the black and white
silk dresses enjoying such vogue have ex-
quisite appliques of white lace. Simple
and plain materials will be extensively
used, but sim mplicity will not be the order
of the day, for such fabrics are to be richly
trimmed and ornamented. The latest
and on light gauzy grounds they will also
appear.
Cravats of batiste, lace, chiffon and
tulle will be worn with all costumes.
Model evening dresses at Redfern's have
quite tight sleeves. made plain almost to
the shoulder. where they were either
puffed out themselves or that effect was
produced with softly falling trimming.
So by gradual stages even the American
woman will be lee back to small sleeves.
One of our large stores here is showing
Dresden chiffons. They are marvelously
becoming and not so dreadfully expensive
after all, for two or three yards will give
chic touch to an otherwise uninteresting
bodice.
The higher grade mohairs and alpacas
are on sale in all the leading shops and
many inexpensive lightweight cloths
which make up most satisfactorily for
visiting-dresses. With these costumes l
strongly recommend the newest sailor hat
with Just the ribbon band or a Panama
chapeau. Hats laden with flowers, etc.,
are not suitable for all occasions, and the
woman who desires to be trim, trig and
stylish will give more than one glance at
her faithful mirror before deciding on even
the sim plest details OF her toilette. If some
women would only bear in mind that time
brings changes of form. coloring and COM
pIexion the results would be better.
This morning L have just read the de-
scription of a picture hat which many will
appreciate. 1t is in bebe chip, with fold
of mignonette green velvet under the
brim and bandeau of roses. A plume
of black tips, another band of velvet round
the crown, finished off with strings make
a very stylish hat, which will emph asize
the charms of a youthful face, and / have
had an even prettier one illustrated for
you-it is properly called a VERSAILLES
hat" 1t is made of black chip, with ex-
fine feathers on one side and
bow of broad satin ribbon on the opposite
side, three tips fall over the brim. Wide
strings of beautiful ribbon complete a
chapeau which must be seen to be appre.
ciated.
The handsome house dress is of rich
light gray silk. The skirt is simple and
well cut; the bodice very elaborate. The
sleeves wrinkle to the wrist and over the
hand falls a frill of fine lace. The vest is
OF pale pink chiffon over pale green silk
There are braces of pink vel
vet studded with small, but excellent,
paste buttons, and yelled by cascade of
filmy lace. A belt of unusually fine passe-
menterie completes it. This gown is lined
with rose silk and completed with green
and rose pinked ruffles.
A dear little blonde debutante here will
look sweet!y pretty when she appears in a
dark-blue serge, lined with green shot silk.
1t has biscuit colored embroidered waist
coat, trimmed with a beautiful galoon.
Another stylish girl mas costume OF
rich golden brown cloth, the bodice of
which has tiny golden buttons used as a
trimming. This bodice is cut so as to show
a pouched waistcoat, outlined with ORR
entail trimming, showing at the top small
yoke of cream -colored lace.
[ am delighted with gown of blue can
vas, with the seams of the skirt showing
an under petticoat of accordion-pleated
blue and green shot silk. Braces of blue
canvas, edged with narrow killings of the
silk, appear over the shoulders of the
bodice, which is comprised completely of
the killed silk, and has a deep coTselet
belt round the waist. With this Will be
worn an odd little mantle of a drab gauze
over the green-shot silk. This mantel is
covered with q conventional design out
lined with iridescent beads. handsome
ribbons complete it.
The new canvas is an attractive fabric,
so am sure most of you will be interested
in hearing of a dress of Holland-colored
canvas, which had bodice of the canvas
with a snowy mousseline de sole vest
The bodice was edged with narrow white
silk-kilted frills, which were repeated on
the skirt in three rows round the bottom.
One of the same fabrics is prettily made
up with a waistcoat of grass lawn
embroidered with silks in numerous col
ors. The little jacket has broad revers,
also embroidered.
A coarse purple canvas of an exceed
1ngly stiff texture cannot be more effec-
lively made up than with vest of grass
lawn embroidered in green, gold and vio-
let silks. and distinctly original air may
be given by having the hem on the skirt
scalloped and surrounding the scallops
with q killing of narrow violet satin rib
bon.
An Easter bride has in her troussesu an
evening frock of pink chine silk with a
tiny gray stripe. The bodice is high, with
a pointed yoke of lisse, EN- broidered in
pink roses and finished at neck and cuffs
with a twist of ribbons. The ruff1es at the
wrists are of creamy lace.
This fortunate woman can wear yellow
with delightful results, so, naturally, she
has dinner gown of golden hue. The
foundation is of this rich color, in glace
silk, over which is a skirt of accordion
pleated mousseline de sole, alternating
broidery. The sleeves are a la butterfly.
A frill of black mousselne over one of vel
low completes this conception at the neck
and shoulders.
A good and useful dress is the property
of q youthful matron. 1t is of black and
white striped silk, the stripes graduating
into VS. in front. The bodice has revers
of black lisse, which has white lace ap-
plique upon it, while down the front and
around the neck is a deep rose tinted rib
bon, outlined with the white lace ap-
plique.
At one of the receptions last week OBJ
served costume of chine silk with
mauve predominating in its coloring
and bretelles and collar of mauve miroir
velvet, outlined with lace. The brunette
who wore it had fortunately selected Just
the right mauve, which suited her rich
coloring, SO the result was noticeably
good.
very dressy tailor gown, made in Lon
don, has decidedly Frenchy air about it.
The material used is an exceptionally fine
nut brown" cloth. The basque is very
narrow at the back. continued to the front,
where it falls in deep points. matching the
revers at the neck. On the shoulders are
triple capes, which are lined with white
satin; a pleated band of white satin