Evening star., 1896-10-24

\\Nuo24fN iOOh HST DcSl. Ills
I:uUN W9@ is not, es one might
I.bEh W# suppose, the celebra-
I&k' MI Hon Of her marriage,
at which time she is,
OF course anxious to look well; but. at the
wedding, 1t goes without saying that the
conquest has been made, whereas no one
Knows what victim may present himself
to be vanquished at an evening party or
dance Hence. it is at the evening party
tnat she wants to make the most favor
able Impression, and because IL is here that
she can best throw off the trammes of
unnecoming fashions, which are sometimes
ne cessity to the street gown, it is no
tlceabie fact that women do usually appear
at their best in evening dress.
Evening gowns are not nearly SO conven-
tional and SO stiffiy pa termed efter the pre-
vailing features of fashion as are the
gowns which are worn on other occasions,
and, Therefore, Individual taste and natu-
raj outlines can be much more freely con-
suited. 9----i - - 2s,E. -
However, there are q few general lines
htch serve to guide the designer of even
iis dresses. and which mark a dress as a
gown of the present season. One of the
chief difficulties which the designer had
to meet this year was the necessity of
reconcilng the un6raped arm Of the even
ing dress with the small sleeve.
The small puff which is compensated by
trimming below the, elbow in the case of
day gown looks very scant and made
quate by itself, and requires some other
device to supplement its width
Ihe wide erect Is obtained, however, in
various ways. beautiful dress which
vas evidently this years creation, was
vorn by very young girl at a recent col
lege hop.
Green silk tarlalan over nile green silk.
was the beautiful material. and perhaps it
was rather elaborate for so young a girl
but IT was the Freshman reception, and
ner nrst appearances at AN evening fun =
don among her college mates, and she
didn't want to slight Che occasion. The
skirt had no trimming, and the bodice was
simply shirrei, straight across the front
and back, leaving the neck slightly low in
front. and quite low pn The shoulders. I'm
mense revers trimmed with bands of in
sertion, were set JUST in front of each arm,
ano We're wired to stand, out past the arms
reach. These revers were lost at the waist
underneath q, wide Jbels of maure velvet
laid in four folds. ,cTo. s - n
For Evening iwenr. .~e
Another very beautiful evening dress.
which appeared, not. at so small an aft air
as freshman reeepa1on,r but at one Of the
formal fraternity balls which nre another
unique feature Of college life. was made
of salmon-colored antique silk. The skirt
had a wide ffeunseeof accordion plea ting at
the bottom. headed with three rows of silk
bodice Of brocaded silk had ths appearance
Of having been slashet DOWN. the middle
nearly g. the waist, and tu49 9d, back in
small revers at the top, the cofsqEa being
ored mousssetihea Underneakt,the revers
and across the bodice to the Sannder arm
seam were couple of 1ounces of mousse
lnenas line; Two .o .M Wa acunees. Transparent
almost stfatght from the shoulders like
epaulets. The Rack repeated the same
trim ming. With this gown were worn
saln:on-colored gloves and a feather fan.
evening dresses, though more for matrons
than very young girls. A reception gown
or black velvet worn by lady who had
been six years a matron, had a wreath Of
puffs, with a couple more nestled in be-
tween the wing-like lace epaulets at the
shoulder. A drapery Of Brussels lace-not
f1ounce-trimmed the deco1letage and fell
the lower part of the bodice were trimmed
with jet spangles The sleeve puffs were
quite small in comparison with those of
last year, and looked very odd after so
long a season of puffS as large as the body
between them.
The Elizabeth Collar.
The Elizabethan collar makes a very
also adds to ones shoulder circumference
A very unique costume, designed by Fa-
lix for the opening bali of the New York
season, is an artistic combination of dainty
colors which harmonize so we'll that one
does not realize there are so many. The
skirt is made of mauve silk embroidered at
the bottom of the front with design in
the same shades, and finished with a mar
row f1ounce of yellow gauze. The bodice is
tight fitting and made of PLUMB -colored vel
vet. A yellow gauZe sash drapery caught
at each side of the bust with punches of
flowers, passes around the bodice diagon-
ally, is draped in a loop one hip and
then knots loosely across the front of the
skirt, hanging in long ends to the bottom
The EliZabethan, or Stuart collar Is made
of stiffened lace-also the revers that fold
back over the plea ted r1auve and yellow
f1ounces, that form the epaulets.
In general, the skirts of evening dresses
are made of heavy silk or satin. Silk, bro
caded in large figures closely woven, is
very fashionable. and the most elegant
trimmings are velvet and lace, with a little
gauze and jeweled trimming by way of
variety.
A quaint ball dress. made of heavy old
rose 6amasse silk, has very wide skirt
which opens over an apron front Of green
velvet that Is edged with a cascade Of
Brussels lace. The belt, made of folds of
green velvet, is SO wide Ina that It L forms near,
in front with threes large paste buttons.
Above the belt, OF girdfe. the brocade is
draped over the busti being caught in front
by large emerald bNcklRs The back of the
bodice is close fitting green velvet, edged
at the neck with ssirucAtng Of lace that
extends around the top of the velvet sleeve
puffs to the drapery in front. A, second
row Of the ruching. is added on the puffs
to give the long. efecteeon the shoulder
which fashion stil.isanetions. and which
the fashionable woman Is SO 10th to give
up. Is
Fashion NOtes.
Although the empire fan still continues
in favor, nothing is HSufte equal in elegance
to the large. swaying fan, of ostrich plumes.
Feather ernamentsrare also worn in the
hair. 70
One could write addlwh9e chapter on the
new slippers. They are more elaborately
trimmed than ever before.
Evening gloves are longer than they
were last season, owing to the absence Of
large puffs.
The newest gloves for street wear have
tight gauntlets Of q contrasting shade of
kid, which fold down tight around the top
Of the glove when one has on long sleeves
or can be turned back to conceal that bare
strip Of wrist between the ordinary glove
and the shorter sleeve. This is a very
clever invention and Is sure to be popular
W1nn 1u1 More Than n Mama IN. u..