Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-07-16
TRICKS OF FRENCH COOKS.
Artificial Hnmboues and stamped Cooks-
combs Used by PaIi.ians. nq


combs used by PaIisiRns. rl
We often hear people who havo paid
25-minute visits TO Paris talk OF the
beauties of Partisan cuisine, says the
London, Globe. Here aro a few OF
Cockney coffee house keepera, have
coffee, 30 have also tho Partisan res
tauratours found out how TO make
bouillon or bnof tea without beef. At
the gargotes, the lowest class OF Paris
restaurants, q species Of very ingenious
fraud has now boen common for over
half q century aud maybe more. 1t
consists in passing oil warm water,
colored and favored with burned
onions and caramel and into which
some little grease bubbles have been
bones which have been twice slowed,
secondly by tho inferior class of
traiteurs and cast away as done with.
are stewed in this water for the third
mated, IL possible, with some particle
of animal substance; but as this oper-
alton fails to impart to il those little
torn "eyes'' and for which the
shrewd frqeuenters of these establish;
ments invariably look in torder to
satisfy themselves that the broth they
drink has been actually made from
difficulty by blowing spoonful Of fish
| oil, which, falling in to the eaul-
dron, or soup tureen, formed the eyes
I.,nr 30, ,,f fotf ftrf,s
| The system was found to answer so
perfectly that an employe aux yeux dc
| bouillon, as tho individual who per-
forms this operation is termed, is now
an indispensable necessity at all gar
gotiers in large way of business.
Rarisians of a certain class are inor-
dinute eaters of ham; in fact, almost
aa many hams are eaten in Para as
could be furnished by all the pigs
killed throughout the whole of France
even allowing for both shoulder and
leg being cured 10 accordance with
French practice. The demand used
and may iie now--to be supplied in
this wise. Tho dealers in cooked hams
bought up the old ham bones at a
couple OF sous apiece and ingeniously
inserted them into pieces of pickled
pork, which they trimmed into shape
and coated with grated bread crusts.
In this way many bones did duty hun
dreds OF times over lasting, in fact, fer
years. They would leave the dealers
in the morning and frequently return
to them the same night, to quit them
again the following day. NeverthIeHs
the supply could hardly keep pace
with the demand. Only fancy the in
convenience Of having tn wait for your
ham until your noighbor's servant took
back the hambone which tho char
cutler relied upon receiving yesterday
1t was to obviato such state oi
things that an ingenious individual
conceived the idea OF manufacturing
ham bones wholesale and ere long he
drove a thriving trade at 10, eous q
dozen; since which time the stock oi
hams has augmented, and the delieacy
has become less difficult OF d .tainment.
Much in the same way, another Ii
genious individual, knowing tho i'm
mense consumption OF cockscombs IL
Paris for ragouts, coquilles OF cocks
combs and vol-au-vents and seeing tht
high prices the said cockscombs com
manded, owing to the limited supply,
set to work to minister to the domaine
and duly established himself as manu-
facturer Of cockscombs. So extensip,
was the trade done by him that bl
found it necessary 10 set up smal
steam engine. He was great en-
thusiast and was accustomed to prid,
himself upon the artificial cockscombl
which emanated from his atelier beint
greatly superior to the natural article
This is the way our artist went t.
work. As the same method is largel,
worked at this day in London as well al
in Paris-aye, and in New York ant
New Orleans-we purposely use til,
present tense for time. He lakes til,
palate Of bullock, COW, calf. sheep o
goat--either will do, though he. profor
the first After having blanched 1t ii
boiling water he macerates it and de
tachos tho flesh OF tho paiatic yaul
without in the slightest degree derang
ing 1t and then places ii under a staufp
ing machine, which punches out cocks
combs more perfect in shape thar
those produced by nature, 7 ye
sufficiently resembling them t
deceive the connoisseurs. Still, ther.
is a way OF detecting the artificial pro
duction-.the cockscombs of clumsl
nature have papille. on both sides
whereas those OF art have them only on
ono Counterfeit cockscombs arc sole
as low as four SOUS tho dozen in Pari.
to poulterers, Keepers of restaurants
pastry cooks, &c, and at six sous Il
cooks in private families.
Apropos of our subject, this man IL
his intercourse with poulters, got /,
learn that whom they did not sell theil
turkeys at once, they were obliged /,
lower the price about onesfifth ever,
subsequent day bird remained OF
hand, and SO frequently had to submi
to loss, although tho turkey nigh
present the same appearance of fresh
ness that ii did when first killed. Ant
yet no cook could be deceived and thi
solely because the birds legs, whicl
were black and shiny on the day of it
death, assumed more and NOR,
grayish tone as time went ON. Thi
was quite sufficient for our man o
genius. The shrewd manufacturer o
cockscombs hastsned home and set t.
work to compound a varnish whicl
should defy the attacks of time ant
render turkey's legs ever fresh ant
youthful. In couple of days he re
turned triumphant to the market ant
furnished the best proof of his success
by deceiving the dealers themselves
Trials were next made upon the pubi,
and turkeys with varnished legs wer,
offered TO tho cunningost cooks, who
deceived by appearances, made theiI
purchases without demanding tD,
customary abatement, and tho con
seryation OF the brilliant luster o