davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-10-05

Having gone to Paris recently - purchase
trousseau. which is to be used In the
late fall bright, observant American girl
las written home concerning some fall
aty-es that have pleased her. ''Some tiny
capes or collarettes that reach barely to the
puff Of the sleeve were shown me the other
day." she says. They are to be worn this
fell and are certainly the sweetest thingr
for Shoulder wear that have eeen for some
time. There are two styles. and. for the
life cf me. l could not decide which
thought the prettier. One is a successo
OF plaitings OF mousselne de sole n
cream or straw color. over light tafreta
foundations. and shows a big bunch CT
pink roses at the back OF the neck be
meath fall OF lace The other is OF hecy7
corded silk. embroidered in arahesques n
combination of tones. and is trimmed CT
the interior with founcngs OF soft lace.
II am ouyins UP lot OF lac,s, for -
things indicate that they will be tho music
Of the future for many moons to CON
Nothing seems to take the place Of lace faf
millinery and dreesn.aking purposes. 1t VII
contr ue to play a prominent part IN ths
winter gown and hat. seemingly without re-
gard to material or color. l have just hal
made dream Of an evening toque, mads
entirely OF bevy Of lace butterfies--ssif-
fened into shape with wire-and a few
French roses. You'll go wild when you ser
1t. Some silk ,waistcoats that are beinr
made for me haye their color softened by
fall OF lace, and. 1t Is to be used lavishli
in all my trcuseeou. The yellow shadoa,
which are so popular, are very becoming to
me, and l shall buy quantity to bring
homo for future use
II must not forget to tell you" cor.
tinues this chatty little writer, chat rc
costume Is considered chic here without
touch Of black. No matter how briIl,en
In color or how somber. 1t must have ,rei
touch, never mind how smell 1t may be
1t may be the belt, the hat the gloves, or
knot Of ribbon. but the Garl. tore must h
there. 1t certainly adds distinction to
costume, even the most commonplace. Bu
these French women have the grand art OF
giving the right touch to whatever they
wear, It seems"
At this season Of the year the need is
frequently felt OF light evening wr,p
which will be uectul and yet not crush
dainty gown nor detract from it's smart
appearance. The sacque coat s most popu-
lar for this purpose. 1t Ia often made of
black silk or brocho or of a light enc,
though the colors should never be too
nashy. If the silk Is good no lining is re-
quired, and the etraieht-cut sacuue only
just comes below the waist. and is cut in
tabs round the bottom, which, when edged
with narrow Jet or other bead t-imm;ng
requires no further establishment. A small
turn-back colla and revers. ceasing iuss
where the first front button comes, can
either be OF the same or contrasting
silk, and they mus; be stiffened with mus
lin and lined with thin sarsenet. as must
the deep cuffs. made wide enough to slip
the hand through. into which is set the
large unlined puff that forms the rest of the
sleeve. The fashion will extend to thin
cloth sacques as the sutumn advances.
chic little fall coat is made up In
The herald., 1896-10-05

tobacco brown broadcloth. with . loose
front and tight-fltting back, the fullness
over the skirt arranged In one big box
plait instead Of two. which gives 1t rather
al odd look.
A jacket to sip on III bed while burning
rhe midnight oil over a book, or while
breai1fasting in bed. is Of pale yellow silk.
lined with thin white wool to give 1t
warmth. 1t Is accordion plated from yoke
OF Russian embroidery in gold and red and
blue silks. The garment ends at the waist,
and all the trimming. consisting Of lace
tour de cou and rosettcs, is punched about
the throat. The sleeves are straight open
Russian ones faced with white silk.
second negiige Is even prettler and
more unique. 1t Is Of softest pink silk
lired with satin, and it has long ends that
cross fichu fashion to fssten the little affair
The herald., 1896-10-05

pie are always adding to their STOCK
Savings from nearly all sources are dc.
posed OF In this way. and these savings
are being constantly made-often at the
expense of clothing. sometimes at the ex-
pense Of greater necessities Of life. The
making and the storing away Of wealth
in this form h the national peculiarity Of
the country.
Jewelry is regarded as tho most stable
kind OF wealth, and fortunes are never
counted without estimating the value Of
the stock OF jewelry. 1t can always bs
pledged or disposed Of. The market for
its sale is never closed and never de-
pressed. The most ignorant native who
wishes to sell a piece OF jewelry knows
It's market value quite well. He can scarce
ly be cheated
Jewelry forms the greatest factor in
matrimony. The most lowly bride has her
stridham. which is occasionally equal In
value to FIVE years. income Of the bride-
Groom. There Is often a scarcity Of cloth
ing. sometimes a scarcity Of cooking pots,
generally not a particle Of furniture. but
nearly always stock Of jewelry. The wife
that has no jewelry possesses nothing else:
che cannot be robbed. The family that does
not have jewelry is absolutely INDECENT.
One Of the greatest boasts Of the yew-
slry owner lis that his boards cannot be
taxed A man may own jewelry, valued
at lakh Of rupees. and pay no Income
tax. This Is a source of great satisfac-
ton. JeweIry yields no recurring income.
hut 1t is priced more than Government
Paper. II 1t never increases, It never d.
rlniehes. is a national eaying. common
cr,ong men and women alike. No native
marriage, except among the most impover-
shed. takes place without transfer Of jew
elry. and very frequently Of new jewelry.
< x *
A woman who does not wish to entirely
nut off mourning. though she will not wear
b1rck on board yacht. has had
white sage dress made. with stripes Of
broad military braid going from the waist
downward and terminating in points about
4 quarter Of yard above the hem. These
ere not more than two inches apart at the
waist, but are very cleverly sloped and
arranged round the wide skirt so that there
s considerable distance between the
points. The blouse, in white silk with
slack spots on it, and the Eton Jacket is
finished with fine rows of narrow black
braid and small black and white enamel
buttons. The yachting cap is black, and
the name OF the yacht is embroidered on It
IN white silk. White doeskin gloves and
shoes and dull white Japanese silk UNI
brella complete very chic costume.
The herald., 1896-10-05
WORLD

are in general shape replices Of the hand
mirrors found on every wealthy woman .
dressing case. The glass. a secondary mat
ter, ID a lens. as q rule. not much larger
than half-dollar. With frame and handle.
the whole thing is not more than three
inches long. But the frame Is Of silver in
most beautiful weddings; Of gold. Of cum
ming and marvellous workmanship; of
mother OF pearl, delicateIy carved and
showing all the hues Of the rainbow: OF
Jade, OF jasper, Of turquoise. Of anything
that is costly. The most accomplished art
lists are engaged In their designs.
It is glittering bauble in itself. but
after all is only an excuse for weaving
long. thin, finely woven golden chain
tnat hangs around the neck and allows
the monocle to dangle at the wast-line.
very few OF the fashionable women will
be content with wearing ne chain Of plain
gold, anu goodness knows they cost enough
even In that shape, but the proper thing
is to have set in the chain a pearl at every
three inches Of its length. The size. brill
ltancy and purity Of the pearls are limited
alone by the wealth OF the owner.
There are some people who believe that
pearls bring tears" For them. rubies,
sapphiree, topazes and emeralds are substi-
tuted in the lorgnette with beautiful effect.
In the window OF one jewelry store q
golden chain Is shown, the meehes Of which
are as delicate as lace The chain is hardly
thicker than thread in it's entirety. and
in it Is artsully set, every three inches. a
resplendent diemond. The effect Of this.
however, is garish. almost barbaric, and it
only serves to show by contrast what de-
lightfully artistic things the slender chains
with pearls are.
The fair weerer is supposed to use the
single lorgnette for critical inspection Of
persons and things At the opera she
raises it to the level Of her eye and holds
1t two or three inches away. She may
also use 1t to minutely examine books, en-
CRAVINGS or dress goods. 1t gives opportu-
nifty for those graceful movements and at
tractive gestures that are called pretty
ways" 1t can be handled as effectively as
fan. and besides that it usually costo
more.
The herald., 1896-10-05

or matinee. In these gowns these fashion
able invalids hold sort Of court. They en-
tertain With delightful little afternoon teas
in their rooms or In their private balcony.
But the rarest treat comes in the afternoon
when the promenade Is gay with the bright
L. colored gowns and brighter parasols and
hats; for the season OF bright colors Ia IN
full blast now.
One fashionable society woman, now on
her way to Wissbaden, had some beautiful
gowns fashioned at one Of the swellest
shops, and had long. lingering look at
them all before they were boxed. For
morning wear there was a simple gown OF
light gray canvas cloth made over a trans
parency Of white taffeta. The skirt was a
plain godet. very full, without an atom Of
stiffening. and 1t touched the floor all
around. At the back the excessive length
amounted almost to a demi-rraIn.
The herald., 1896-10-05

Coming home after a summer campaign,
certainly most women will find their ward
robe needs rejuyenating and retrimming to
look more fal:-like. With judlcious man.
agement and The expenditure of very little
money old gowns can be made to look quite
nice AID to last a good deal longer. A
Zouave Jacket and stock and girdle of
velvet would do for one: another could
have rufies Of very narrow butter-colored
Valenctennes crcsswise from neck to waist
and five strips Of golden-brown velvet put
on lengthwiso over this, finished with stock
and girdle Of velvet to match. Still an
other way is to make a cravat, a bow Of
two loops and knot, with three pendant
ruff1es Of either muslin or lace. With a
lew stock and girdle your waist has a
= er3erFully fresh appearance.
The herald., 1896-10-05
The bodice had a seamless back and .

. The bodice had a seamless back and a
full blouse front, with wide box plait
formed of white embroidered batis:e with a
narrow edging of deep cream valenciennes.
The collar was high stock collar Of white
satin with a narrow ruffle of the batiste
at the top and base. There was a narrow
belt of white suede and clasps Of rare old
silver OF Venetian design. The sleeves OF
this gown. 100. noticed were moderately
full coat sleeves. and had not that pinched.
withered look that the ultra fashionable
gowns boast.
A dressy afternoon gown was built Of
corn-cclored taffeta with ligh: pattern in
deep orange. The skirt was full godet.
tigh.-fltting at the hips. with the fullness
thrown we'll TO the back. The left eide OF
the skirt had trimming Of black velvet
rlbbcn with cravat bows. The front OF tao
bodice was Of plain yellow satin with
covering Of white mousseline de sole and
trimming Of the black velvet ribbon. There
was a broad collar of white satin with
pattern traced il geld threads that extended
quite over the rather short sleeves. and the
standing crush collar was Of white satin.
=, Never during its existence has India
been go rich In jewelry as now. The peo-
The herald., 1896-10-05

Of tortoise e..si naot1ts T. .e9r,. ebony,
silver. geld or .s.;lninUn. a very charm
ing appendage in its way to lovely
woman's scheme OF decoration when on full
parade, has always had the drawback Of
being cumbersome. II has never been held
that the lorgnette is OF any real utility; tina,
1t is any aid whatever to woman. Some
women can. of course. handle them grace
fully and effectively. They offer a glorious
opportunity to assume q pose of disdainful
or critical inspection.
But the single lorgnette is even better
for this purpose. What Is more to the
idea of the fair spender Of fortunes. 1t can
be made a most extravcgant appurtenance
10 the full-dress example.
However. there are limits placed by
good taste to the layishnesa of ornamental
tfon OF tie handle OF the regulation lorgn-
cite. No matter how large the fortune
Of the fashionable dame. she cannot carry
around with her mass of gold that is
unwieldly. Sailors on returning from long
voyages have been known to wear three
and four watches. and Madagascar's Queen
wears brilliant rings on all her fingers and
both thumbs.
| There is no more limit. however, to the
! valuable ornamentation of the single orgr-
cite than there ts to yatchc.Fs '-I,--'
The herald., 1896-10-05
OrauCe Jelly.

Into q clean pan put half pint Of water,
three ounces OF loaf sugar. and thinly-pared
gelatine. Let all this cook slowly on the fire
Till the gelatine is melted. and the color and
flavor Is well out of the orange rinds. Then
pour in half a pint of orange Juice and the
Juice of two lemons. Rinse out mold with
cold water. strain In the jelly and put to get
cold While 1t is setting give :. stir now AMI
then, otherwise the thick part Is apt to settle
at the top Of the mold. This jelly is usually
not cleared as 1t loses its flavor.
The herald., 1896-10-05
Lace Jacket for the Garden.

a loose jacket made OF lace can be worn to
advantage over old and somewhat worn
dresses. Such a costume will do particularly
good service in the house or garden, il visitors
call unexpectedly. 1t Is made OF black
lace. preferably wide Chantilly lace, and
is allowed to hang loosely in front,
while at the back 1t is taken In by means OF
a black belt Of either leather or velvet, which
is drawn through slits under the sleeves. The
and borders are edged with narrow
satin ribbon,
The herald., 1896-10-05
SINGLE LORGNETTE.
EuU SMART WOMEN HAD DIS
CARDED THE DOUBLE AFFAIR.
II LOOKS LIKE A MONOCLE.
e Attacked to . Long Chain of Gold
Set with Pearls-A Costly Trick of
Fashion.

NEW YORK, go go .--The very smart
woman will not use . lorgnette this year
when she sazes languidly upon plebeian
pedestrians from her handsome park victoria
or brougham. That is. she will not use
an ordinary lorgnette. for new style is in
vogue-a trim affair-called the monocie
Iorgnette. 1t has been in use for some time
on the other side. and is just beginning to
make headway here.
The double lorgust.c. with It's handle
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1896-1899, 1896-07-14

of milk given per day that is rich
enough to show 81 per cent of fat.
To this price add or subtract 81 for
every One-fourth Of per cent OF fat
which Is above or below 81 per cent.
BY this rule COW is bought entirely
on her merits.
The cleanest and cheapest home
made drinking fountain for poultry.
Is constructed as follows: Take an
empty fruit eau, and with wire nail
or sharp end of u file, make a hole
through the tin-can about one-fourth
To one-half inch from the open end:
fill the car with clean fresh water,
place a saucer upside down on the
Iilled can and turn them upside down
on the level ground. This will leave
the can setting upside down in the
saucer, and the saucer will stand fun
OF water up TO the hole in the can.
This is the incest way to clean chick
ems, and is economical. They cannot
get into 1t with their feet, and it runs
out only as fast as they drink It.
Most people have the erroneous be-
lief that 1t is not right 70 water or
sprinkle plants during sunshine. Now
all the plants will suffer more or less
from dry sun heat, especially roses;
therefore they should be sprinkled
III one can afford the time, several
times during the day. The warmer
the day the Oftener they should be
be sprlnkled, no matter If the water
is cold. All the foliage and ground
surface should be well sprinkled, more
so on the sides of houses, etc. This
gives fine humid atmosphere, which
is most essential to plant growth, and
will cure and prevent mildew.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1896-1899, 1896-07-14
OREGON CROPS.

Crop report for the week ending
July 13, 1885, In the hay fields the
greatest activity is found. AS rule
the crops of hay are good and many
are heavy. During the past week the
weather could not have been better to
enable farmers to make progress in
the hay fields. Continuous sunshine
throughout the week cured the hay in
excellent condition, and insuring a
crop Of excellent quality. There have
been no high winds TO tangle the hay
and no rain to damage 1t. There are
many fields Of excellent hay still
standing that should be cut, though
the weather has been entirely favor
able for harvest. Good crops Of alfalfa
Will be harvested In Southern Oregon.
While the weather has been all that
could be wished for progress in hay
fields, it has not been satisfactory for
late sown grain, gardens and potatoes;
early sown grain has also suffered in
some section.
The heat has been excessive, the
temperature recording from S5 to 80
degrees, has caused the late-sown
crops to burn, and though the straw
in many instances has a rank growth,
it is thought that the heads will not
fill unless rain should come. Much Of
the late-sown grain, which is the sub
ject of complaint, was sown after
June /, and, in fact, as late as the 10th
of June.
Fall-sown grain and grain sown In
the winter and early spring will come
through the warm spell without suf-
fering any perceptible injury, and
rarely is there report from any
section of the Willamette valley dep
reclating the recent warm and dry
weather for fear Of the damage it
might do to these crops. Fall-sown
and early-sown spring crops OF grain
are good and there will be many fine
crops harvested in the Willamette
valley. In Southern Oregon the fall
and early-sown grain will make good
crops, but they have been shortened
somewhat by the warm weather, and
the grain has become yellow, showing
that harvest is not far distant. Some
grain aphis is observed, but there is
no general complaint.
Corn looks we'll, having improved
through the warm weather; IL is now
In tassel.
Grapes are making good growth;
they are as large as peas and the pros
poets are bright for good crop.
Where the hops have received
proper cultivation they are looking
exceptionally we'll, but this has not
been done, as rule. Hops have been
neglected, and many fields show irreg-
ular growth. The hop louse is pres
ent, but not In large numbers.
To what extent garden truck and
potatoes have suffered from lack OF
rain remains to be seen. The general
impression is that there will be
material damage unless favorable
weather change occurs.
Small fruit is abundant with the
exception OF strawberries, the
season for them being nearly past.
Cherries are ripe.
The week ends with Sunday and
Monday partly cloudy and cool with
out rain. The cool weather, II 1t con-
tinues, will be relief to limited
extent In assisting the growth OF
vegetation.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1896-1899, 1896-07-14
GLANCE AT THIS MAP.

OF the Chicago, Milwaukee and st. Paul
Railway and note It's connection with all
transcontinental lines at 81. Paul and Omaha.
and remember when going east that lis ir..'ns
are lighted with electricity and heated by
steam. Its equipment is superb. Elegant
Buffet, library, smoking and sleeping cars,
with free reclining chairs. Each sleeping
car beth has an electric reading lamp, and
its dining cars are the best ia the world.
Other lines are longer than this, but none
are shorter, and no other offen the above luz.
urious accommodation. These are sufficient
reasons for the popularity Of "The Milwau-
kee." Coupon ticket agents In every rail.
road Office will give yon further information,
OF address
c. ]. EDDY, General Agent,
J. W. CASEY, Tray. Pass. Agent.
Portland
Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1896-09-11
ASKING FOR AN INJUNCTION.
Judge Lamb Hears Complaints of
First-street Citizens.

Argument was heard by Judge Lamb. Of
the Chancery Court yesterday afternoon
on the application OF the First street pro-
PERFORMERS Tor an injunction restrain
Ing thu Richmond Traction Company
from constructing It's Hollywood line
through that thoroughfare. Mr. Z. y.
MunfoTd appeared IN behalf Of the pro-
perry holders. and made the point that
the Council had no right 70 delegate 10
the Street Committee power 10 grant per-
mission for the company 10 use city
streets.
Mr.. Randolph Williams followed Mr..
Munford In behalf OF the company. He
pointed out the fact that the Firgt-street
route would give sreet-car facilities 10
a Iarge district OF the city now without
them. and referred 20 the great advan-
tagss which would accrue % "A large num-
Der OF citizens from the building OF the
new road
Judge l. l.. Lewis was next heard on
behalf OF the property lie dealt
with Mr. Wiiiiams's argument. and held
that the use OF First street by the COM
pany would not only decrease the value
Of property, but greatly annoy residents.
in the afternoon Hon. w. W Henry
argued the case on behalf OF the Trac-
ton Company, and he brought out the
law upon the question Of the company's
right to build tho line.
Judge Lamb, after hearing the argu-
ments OF counsel on both sides reserved
his decision until this morning
This Is the seventh injunction which
has been applied for against the Traction
Company. not one OF which have stood.
Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1896-09-11
NJ: : HaIfsIk:xestsmR.R

SCHEDULE IN EFFECT APRIL 10, 1886.
LEAVE RICHMOND, RYRD-sTREET
STATION.
900 A. NJ. Daily-Richmond and Norfolk
NESTIBULE LIMITED Sc
cond-class tickets not accepted
9O5 A. n. Daily, THE CHICAGO EX-
PRESS" for Lynchburg, Roa-
noke, Columbus. and Chi
cage. Pullman Sleeper. Roa-
noke to Columbus; also, for
Radford. Bristol, Knoxville.
Chattanooga, and intermediate
points.
$50 p. NJ. Daily, for Norfolk, Suffolk
and intermediate stations.
IL 80 T.. NJ. Daily for Lynchburg and
Roanoke. Connects at Roanoke
with Washington and Chatta-
nooga Limited. Pullman Sleep
ers Roanoke TO Memphis and
New Orleans.
PULLMAN SLEEPER between RICH
MOND and LYNCHBURG. ready for oc-
cupancy at . +. NJ. also, Pullman Sleeper
Petersburg to Roanoke.
Trains arrive Richmond from LYNCH
burg and the West daily Gao A NJ ana
Up. NJ. From Norfolk and TIE East II: O5
A. NJ, and Vestibuled Limited, 200 p. NJ.
ONCE. SIS Main street.
r. W. COURTNEY.
District Passenger Agent.
W. b. BEVlLI.
General Passenger Agent.
General Offices: Roanoke. Va. au 70
Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1896-09-11
PROPOSALS.
Commonwealth OF Virginia.
nHoa -

Commonwealth OF Virginia.
Superintendent Of Public Printing.
Richmond, Va, September 3, lSS.
SEALED PROPOSALS WILL BE RE-
ceived at this Office until II VI. of
MONDAY. SEPTEMBER q. 1896.
for the PRINTING. BINDING, RULING,
etc, for the State OF Virginia for one year
from october 1. 1891
Printed schedules, showing in detail the
classifcations, will be furnished on. app!i--
cation to bidders, on which all bids Will
be required to be made.
Contractors will be required to enter
into bond, with security. 10 be approved
By the Secretary OF the Commonwealth,
for the prompt and faithful execution OF
their contracts.
or all bids, and the work will be awarded
in such lots or portions as the Superin-
tendent may deem proper
At the same time and place proposals
will be received for furnishing the follow
ing PAPERS for the use Of the Common
" is5 reams 1sx2s Sc pound, No. Ledger
IS reams isx22, q pound. No. 2 Ledger
III reams 2sxs6. 80 pound. E. S. Flat
Writing.
125 reams l6x2l. q pound. Flat.
1900 xxx, No. l-2. Government En-
Papers. etc. 10 be delivered in stock
room without charge for freight or dray-
age.
The right is reserved TO reject any or
all bids. j. II; q "a nNON,
superintendent for Public Printing