The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1896-11-15

takes the lead. Silk and wool mixed
moires are quite as popular as any
other dress material, and are especially
pretty for the untrimmed skirts The
bodice may have all the decoration you
fancy. Black gowns Of this material
are very stylish. and the skirts with
short black velvet coats are decidedly
pretty for the street. The most ele-
CANT gowns this season are Of silk vel
vet, and black with white accessories,
has the most striking effect, but color
ed Velvets in the dark, rich shades of
red and green are very much used.
These gowns, however, are too expen-
sive for the many, and a very good
substitute is found in the new fine vel
veteens, which come in pretty colors
and are made with sable trimmings,
lace, and various kinds of embroidery
on the waist, quite as elaborate as
though they were silk. Any sort of
excessive decoration is not considered
too much for the little vest which
seems to be a necessary part Of every
gown, whether it is made with a jacket
or not. Lace and chiffon figure largely
in these little fronts, and alternate
bands of wide lace insertion and tuck
ed chiffon, with any bands of sable
covering the seams, make very pretty
vests Black or oolored velvet baby rib
bOnS sewn in rows an inch apart on
white mousseline de sole is one fancy,
and crosSwise rows of yellow lace In
sertion on white chiffon, with a row
Of narrow black velvet ribbon between,
is another. Vests Of cream lace over
white satin are quite as fashionable
as they were last season, and a pretty
addition is a two-inch band Of velvet,
which forms a pretty contrast with
the material Of the dress, down either
side, coming out from under the edge
of the bodice and fastened down by
three fancy buttons above the bust on
each side. Pretty servicable fronts are
made Of plaid silks, striped and plain
V0lVetS, and crepe de chine in various
coNors, finely tucked and trimmed on
the middle p1ait with small enamelled
buttons makes a very effective vest
Collar bands, as we'll as vests, are a
pretty, flourishing feature of the gowns
this season, and they all have some
sort Of frill extending all around the
neck or across the back, commencing
just in front of the ears. The latter Is
the most generally becoming style, and
the effect is accomplished in various
ways, with anticipated frills Of silk
and lace gathered inside, with pointed
pieces of velvet wired to make them
stand out; with three little square tabs
on each side, meeting in the back, cut
in one with the collar, lined with silk
or velvet, and wired around the edges.
A lace frill falls over them, beginning
at the side with the tabs. Loops of
satin ribbon, velvet. or pieces of satine
about three inches wide make q pretty
finish, and they are more easily man
aged than the wired points Two short
loops are set in the edge on either
side, leaving narrow space at the
back which is filled in with three Oh
four longer loops. Lace is gathered
inside of this, and almost every collar
has the touch Of lace, either full or
plain, to cover the f1aring tabs. A
black satin collar band with pointed
pieces Of bright velvet flaring out at
the side and short, close bow Of the
satin at the back Is very becoming and
useful, too, when lace is too dressy
and the velvet pieces can be cut in any
shape suited to the face. The turn
down linen collars, with deep cuffs,
are also worn with morning dresses
but the prettiest white collars are made
of embroidered linen lawn OF batiste,
with full frills Of narrow lace ON the