The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-02-11

mainly because 1t would be impossible,
the reign of the ostrich plume is ua-
broken; peacock shades In ribbons and
velvsts are high in favor; applique work.
ed in lace designs is in good demand for
trimmings; hats are often trimmed quite
in harmony with gov and cloak, SO
thai the milliner must be. as Well. fur
rser and matchmaker
One hard. high crown almost like the
bell crown of a mans high nat, planted
quite in the middle of q fisl velvet and
silk hrim, looks odd enough at first, but
1t is Il season of bold Innovations.
Another swagger hat of uneo sventional
mode presents a body of White clath
Other. trimming is OF black. tips. white
ospreys and r~osettes OF white velves, all
pointing forward except where longer
pluaaes rise4sat the back.
And another wouid-be almost Quaker
lika-a coal scuttle bonnet. with gather
ed crown and curved brim of dove
eolored v~elvet-but for the snowy trim
ming Of black plunes and white violets
and the glittering star of paste bril-
Nants
Perhaps the favorfte toque is formed
by gathered folds of crinkled velvet. thrust
well back on the head and with an
a'greste rising from the folds at the rear.
Mitch more rare is a form have seen,
whc-ein the edge of a toque is made of
plated white ribbon. edged with black.
three of the plaits themselves plated to
form a band of mingling. disappearing end
rsappearing black and white bands quite
about the head. The crown is filled with
polka dot silk, the upright bows are the
same and a huge white satin rosette
nestles at the back.
Enough of hats, Let me only add
something utterly different and expen-
sive enough 10 be pretty; a toque Of
acccrdeon-pleated gauze, heavily jetted,
decked with pink and black shaded and
a huge black osprey. With this is worn
a coaiarette of pink silk, covered with
Jetted gauze, and the cloak must be
mostly black, but may be partly pink.
The cloakmakers rather resent it when
the milliner presumes to prescribe what
sort of wrap. must be worn to set off a
particular CONNECTION; and the cloak
makers resentment takes the form of
designing garments of wonderful eceen-
tricity to fight for their own hand. The
pride of life-that Is an opera wrap; per-
haps a collarette and collar of fur
trimmed velvet, in shape like an hour
glass. the two of them; two huge sleeves,
each in itself like a big cape of black
velvet with able or box trimming. and
then for the body of the garment and
for the big undersleeves a brocade bear
ing upon a soft, pale green ground huge
figures in black. There are black fieur-
de-lis nearly a foot tall, black arabesques
lilo dnat1c hams as-n1A1 1tayc
cents. Down the front runs a wide stole
of black velvet with fluffy trimming of
the same regal fur. A tail and queenly
woman looks well in such a wrap, but a
less commanding figure would be better
housed in something less violent.
Let me tell you of some of the new
swell hats. Take a toque of peacock
green velvet, with green ribbon caught
fanwdse on the front with a silver
buckle. A tall black and white aigrette
IS part of the trimming, and two sable
tails keep it pal More brilliant
fans are covered over with small pea
eyes. the hrim presenting the
sheen Of the peacoek's breast, and On
the middle of the crown the birds head
and neck brooding over this strange
world
The liam pot" hat may be a fixture
for the early Spring. 1t ought not to
be trimmed at all but left in its bare
ugliness of outline. I lave seen one,
however. decked with three rolls of
satin about the brim. black plumes nod
ding behind it, and high on one side a
rich red rose. Shot ribbon and mirror
velvet sequins and chameleon ribbon,
cut jet and little mounted humming
birds. spangles, fur, ~velvets, chiffon
such are the materials of the hat trim
mers' art, and the fabric upon which
they disport themselves tends now to
greens. violets and deep lustrous blues. !
There is always the picture hat. A
pretty head in a picturesque pose well
calculated to display the last century
curts in the nape of the neck ooked
charming at an afternoon reception yes
ferday, bearing as it did a drapery of
ecru lace hanging from punches of wood
violets at intervals about the edge of
the hat brim. Above. this hal was of
tthe sheen of fawn silk; beneath was a
lining of deep violet velvet, and big
black plumes waved at the back and at
the left of the high, hard crown.
1t is Ian McLaren who calls them
purple adjeetives."
He claims that the Scots worry not
with them. Probably there is SO rauch
purple in their geographical conditions: |
in their heather, their mountains and
their rivers, that they feel thai they can
leave the color out of their speech
Honestly. we are SO reckless in our
use of purple adjectives.' 1T is not a
good habit. 1 think, probably. Ameri-
cans are more lavish in their wild use of
those parts Of speech which describe
nouns than others.
Was it-not Oliver Wendell Holmes who
said that we seem to think we must
a noun length, breadth n thick
ness before its worth is described; there
fore, we afiix three adjectives to it.
How often you say, "weal. it's the most
thoroughly delightful, enchanting. fas-
cinating book I've read?1 Referring
back to the Scotch, who have a clear
ness of speech that amounts to cunning,
every one remembers the story of the I
man who praised the sunset before a
s~cotchman. 1T is truly magnificent.
isn't t?. he ased.
81 would not say magnificent man:
word should you then keep for the
twenty-irst of Revelstions?"
His advice is at least worth trying.
It is often told Of the American girl that
she uses the same phrase to describe