The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1896-09-29

Sleeves. Alas for the future that rele-
gates them TO the past. I love the big
sleeve-the sleeve that falls in gener-
Gus outlines like those that Gibson pic
lures so tellingly, something between
a full leg O mutton and the long puff
over this say my benediction: May |
your shadow never grow less."
Yes. 1 love the big sleeve. Not the
huge, sim balloon, nor yet the fat NUT
toa-leg that looks as solid as its name
sake. l must confess. however, to lit
tie love for the clinging armful of gath
ers that droop dejectedly over the
hand like a collapsed balloon. Such a
sleeve does not fit the modern woman.
II should be worn by the lackadaisical
fainting female OF the early novelists,
the incarnation of the elinging vine.
No, l prefer the sleeve with charac-
ter-one not 100 severe in its lines,
nor TOO ornate. The breadth is better
AT the shoulders, or little below, than
al the elbows. Wide elbows are wholly
incongruous. They suggest the narrow
shoulders of the ivy type of woman
Joined to arms akimbo of the athletic
new bachelor maid, determined to
make her way through the crowd or
die in the attempt.
The dropping bishop sleeve must be
attached TO a stiff cuff, to be strong,
90 quote the one word now the fad in
art criticism). Otherwise it seems
gasping for starch, and will call for the
tightening of the belt. If a full sleeve
is left to fall from shoulder TO wrist
with no cuff or band, the Objectionable
droop is avoided, and you have art,
pure and simple.
The big sleeve that l admire has
certain harmony, mystery. an artistic
carelessness that is not sloyenliness,
and a comfort for the wearer no coat
sleeve can afford.
1t is said that the fashion-makers,
comic-newspaper men and storekeep-
ers have been the only ones to profit
by the large sleeves. Not only these.
Every woman over-blessed with aver
dupoise has been glad TO adopt the
wrinkled corsage and the kindly folds
of the big sleeve. Every woman who
has sighed in vain for additional flesh
has blessed the big sleeves which con-
ceaI the suggested bones, though they
be beautiful as Trilby's. Most of ali
has the big sleeve been a luxury to the
women who have adopted the Jenness-
Miller system of rational dress. Those
who would not construct their waists
have been nobly supported by the arm
drapery. and they will be the last to
Law aside this custom. Will they, can
they ever go back to the long, plain,
tight old coat-sleeve? Rather let it be
consigned TO fashion plates for men,
there to stay as long as women wear
skirts!
As a basis for artistic gowning the
big sleeve has no rival. Effects can
be secured in the form. not merely in
senseless trimmings The big sleeves
have often been hideous, I admit, but
generally when propped up by un-
wieldy Innings. when worn in smooth,
tight bodice, or when accompanied
by diminuJive waist-measure. They
have been mangled in the making by
unskilled hands. They have been most
uncomfortable when one needed TO
wear an outside garment with other
big sleeves, but they have permitted
greater freedom in dress, greater va
riety OF style, and greater freedom OF
movement.
Their chief moral value lies in the
encouragement they give to the nat
uraI figure. Do you think it merely an
accident that the great waist came
into the Paris fashions after a long
run of big sleeves? 1 tell you it was a
logical outcome of big sleeves, and the
sanast mode ever adopted. 1t makes
for health, for comfort, for the up
building of women, and through them
of civilized races. Thanks to the big
sleeve. the woman with the normal
waist-measure may be comfortably and
eharmingly attired With the tight
coat-sleeves, on the contrary, which
implies fat trimmings and close fitting
bodfces. common sense women were
always poorly gowned.
In his How to Live on the Hawaiian
Islands" Dr. Russell speaks wisely
about dress. He praises the holoku
none too highly, nor does he condemn
too strongly the prevalent tight dress
ing. | find it more than uncomfortable
and unhygenic; in this climate at least
it is atrociously inartistic, because it is
not adapted to existing conditions
What reason can there be in the tight
thick tailor-made gown, its rows and
rows of steels, its skirt that stands
alone? How differently people look al
the human body Physicians find nc
need in il for three or four spinal col
umns. but consider their absence III
front and at the sides as a provision
for expansion of organ freedom of mo-
ton and unimpeded circulation. The
stay maker, on the contrary, finds a
providential call for his trade! Fran
ces Power Cobbe says she believes in