The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-11-12
IDEAS for m01nen.

paths. The universal patllete has greatly
diminished In importance, but 1t Is so
light, and so effective n brilliant, that
the trimming makers are 10th to resign 1t.
There Is a long range Of gallons made in
lisse, and embroidered with tinsel the
coiorings light and charming. and suited
to the silks. which have never been pref
tier. Into many of the patterns a woolen
cashmerian fabric is introduced, like the
Indian handkerchiefs which have been so
often utilized for embroidery, blended
with an applique OF black lisse on white,
forming the leaves; the flowers are of
the cashmerian fabric. any undue bright
mess being softened by gold stitches. Very
many of these silk and tinsel embroideries
are made by the piece all over" as it
is technically called. so that they can be
used for yokes, Boleros. or entire bodices,
and yet the pattern is so arranged that
It is detachable, and can be applied as
gallons. Except in the case of gossamer-
Ike lisse foundations most of. the more
beautiful embroideries, which are nearly
all foraL take the form Of appliques, the
foundation being cut away. In this style
there are graduated revers for the fronts
of bodices, small at the waist and widen
ing OF the shoulder. worked in gold and
colored silks, and-white satin has been
embroidered in the same way with tones
of gray silk. The fayorite trimming Of
the year for the fronts of bodices Is the
Zouave or Bolero. which is greatly ldi-
unfinished in size. and now Is a mere
circular surrounding of the armhole in
front. This idea is worked out in all
kinds of ways in jet. In beautiful satin
and velvet embroideries, and in all the
light colored silks SO successfully APP
piled to ball gowns. And for these there
are 1ouncings of varying widths worked
in beads and silks. light yellow being one
of the favorites. The colorings are most
diverse. Green blends with pink. blu
with white, and flowers Of all kinds ningle
with sage-green leaves. As a rule the
edges are somewhat widely scalloped. but
there are many straight bands with mer-
ely a little serated edge. Lawn as a
foundation for applique, embroidery Is
most excellent. lending itself to the shape
OF the leaves. Cotton threads have been
brought to such perfection that some
beautiful pieces Of black iisse have been
worked in them with those graceful TEN
dri.s and sparse flowers in vogue in the
reign of the unfortunate Louis XVI,
these having all the appearance of six.
Much thick white embroidery is also
worked in cotton on lawn and silk, and
always in contrast to- the ground.
1t is evident that bodices covered with
lace and embroidery are to accompany
skirts which match the sleeves. and de-
s GINS of Maltese or Cluny lace in broad.
distinct leaves are smong the novelties
far t1a p--x1-1 M .~ -
beautiful; but the most decided departures
from what was worn a few months ago
are these Cluny and Maltese designs, ap-
piled to narrow laces, founces and a
great variety of uses. Needle-run lacesE'
that is, net foundations with a pattern.
having the silk thread all On the surface
are especially employed on satin dresses.
according well with their sheeny surface.
Thousands Of pieces of narroy inser-
tions in the Mechhn make of lace are
ready to be used round skirts and basuues
Tor we are once more returning to the
straight line In. eraanaantatson. These are
not entirely superseding Valenciennes but
they are almost as much needed Even
IEsh laees In the besr and richest patterns
have been Reproduced on the machine. |
are in the market, though the silk |
rounded laces with light effects head
ne fashion. In real laces the cheapest |
and perhaps on that account the most
popular, Is the point de Bruges, which has
a~wonderfui effect for a little money.
But characterization this year Is taking
new and varied shapes. Applique
embroideries In the form of festoons in
white and ecrus are frequently worked on
thick satin of a holland color, and are en-
pioyed for capes and nantles; and there |
are many distinct s~caliepings in thick de- /
signs crochet. of q leather tint, which
produce a great effect. and will without
doubt be In greater demand. One Of the
pezats TO remember is that most of the |
1aoes and embroideries are accompanied by |
to match, and the same patterns 1
are repeated in the piece. In chantiuy
laces thera Is a great deal tina is novel and
uncommon, and new patterns take the
of ribbon -rosettes Those who
are seeking information ON the subject OF
Dress decoration must be prepared for
many new ~treatmentss For example. a net |
gallon with q serrated edge on either side.
made in an applique Of white swans skin
with large circles down the ceatre, all out
alNSu Win tinG6l. InlS is quite novel, and 4
so Is a make of net covered with q new
form of pathetic. which IL attached by
of q centre hole without beads; I'D |
to now 1t has always been necessary to
match a E with the palette IN order |
to sew them on. In the present instant
the pattern was accumulated by a gold
thread. hill the palette was a deep
Royal-hlue. Black velvet applique figures |
IN many of the newest designs ON rsse |
the thick and thin fabrics being a marked |
contrast, especially when P~ompadaur |
flowers are worked upon the velvet.
Amber has ones mere been called into
n lozenges Of amber appear |
on a gold foundation edged with heads.
Braiding In all sorts Of designs is the
coming feature in the of
plain, thick materials. Besides the narrow
Russia braids, which are to be had In all |
cclofe' there are many small waved pat
terms In black, edged with gold and heavy
and tubular braids, and many fine !
and coarse black and gold mixtures. one
OF the most original being a centre check
gold and color with a marrow plated |
braid on either edge. This IL sold in an
endless variety of coloring to match every
tint. There is nothing new in the |
military braids, but many old kinds have |
been reyjxe8-dna and coorea u,hy~1 -