The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1896-08-18

CHEESE.

vision, has a valuable article On The
Manufacture and Consumption of
Cheese" in the Year Book OF the De
partment of Agriculture for 1895, from
which the following is copied:
"'Filled cheese which is regarded
as having so iDjuriously affected the
cheese interests of this country within
very recent years, and especially our
foreign trade, is by no mean a new
article, although this is a comparative
ly new name. Very cor after cleo
margarine began to disturb the max
ers, merchants, and consumers Of but
ter In America, Oleo oil came into use
in the manufacture Of cheese. Com
bining this oil with skinned milk, as
an emulsion, it was found that an Or
ticle could be made havirg, when fresh,
the appearance of a good, rich cheese.
Patents were issued upon the process
and mixing machinery about the year
1871, and the making Of 'oleomargarine
cheese was begun at Ridge Mills, near
Rome, n. Y. One Of the oldest and
most reputable dairy apparatus estab-
lishments In the country secured con
troll of the special machinery required,
advertised it extensively, and a good
many factories were fitted up to pro-
duce the new cheese. Tue same firm
still controls the patents.
In writing upon the subject in 1881,
Prof. J. ?. Sheldon, one OF toe first
dairy authorities Of England, expressed
these views:
"'There has been much discussion
and controversy on the other side of
the Atlantic as to the merits Of cleo
margarine cheese. 1t has its friends
and its enemies. It has been vigorous
ly attacked and vigorously defended,
and now awaits the decision Of that
final court of appeals il such cases,
public opinion. Controversy seems to
be useless. This kind of cheese seems
to be a perfectly wholesome Al ticle Of
food, and, 50 long as it is honestly
made and as honestly sold, it is a legiti-
mate addition to our food supply that
may justly claim to stand or fall on it's
merits; but if it comes to be palmed off
on the pure milk Gull cream cheese,
it at once forfeits its claim to be treated
with fair play.
1.-The forfeiture thus suggested has
certainly been made. As already
oE,EoJ +b;5 oIoo oboozo lid obocoo = -
filled cheese, comes into market under
every name except it's OVID. It's rue
character and proper designation are
recogniz d only while in the hands of
the manufacturers agents, and when
it moves from the principal distribut-
ing point the various brands upon it
give ample evidence Of the intent 70
deceive and defraud. The appeal to
public opinion has been made, and the
response is emphatic. Reputable mer-
chants and exporters generally refuse
to handle the article. New York and
Wisconsin absolutely prohibit its
manufacture and sole. Other States
have followed aad are following in the
same cougse, or at least establishing
restrictions and providing for identi
flying marks. The only legislative
contests in which lied cheese tri
umphed were IN Indiana and Illinois.
Chicago has become the chief depot
and Distributing point for this com
modify. Even filed Ljmburger and
brick cheese Of American manutac
ture can now DE found in that market.
The materials FROM which this
cheese is made are very cheap. It's
base is skim milk, which is so abund-
ant in the creamery districts as to be a
waste product, with hardly auy value,
being, unfortun &tely, neglected by
farmers, who fail to appreciate its real
worth. The fats added may be cleo
oil, or neutral lard, or butter Of lowest
grade which has been put through
questionable processes for renovation.
Still cheaper fats may be used. 1t is
claimed that the cheesa can be placed
IN market at a cost of 1 or 5 cen 5 per
pound. In large lots it is freely offered
at three-fourth8 the price of first class
cheese, or less, and yields a large profit
at this rate. Like the butter gub8ti
tutes and limitations, the manufacture
Of filled chess has greatly improved.
A good grade of neutral lard is gener-
ally used, aud the product now comes
into market appearing 80 fine in quail
ity and with so clean a taste as TO be
very deceptive and hard 20 detect by
ordinary sampling. But there is an
absPnCa of flavor or aroma aud ito