The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03


4 N every moment of the time. One
of the most delightful luncheons
of the season was given during the week at
the hostess new home. Now there are
rumors that there is to be very large and
swell reception before we all leave for the
summer, and house parties will be more
numerous than ever before this season.
The young people had very pretty tea on
~ Tuesday. L hope our bench show may be
a success. In Baltimore great interest is
manifested in these shows.
am glad to see that Miss NeTcomb. on
the occasion of her marriage to Assistant
Attorney-General Whitney, had the good
sense to make departure from convention
al mode in the arrangement of her wedding
veil of point lace. AS a result, it was beau
titul and most becoming, and says one of
1.-The guests: sit was arranged in a style
suggestive; OF some of the old European
pictures" Many are the brides who make
perfect guys of themselves by the clumsy.
:. hldeous arrangement of their veils One
OF the most successfully draped wells l
: have ever seen was worn by friend of
mime so ! asked the fair wearer about it,
and: she explained that several days before
:. the wedding she had had her hairdresser
= experiment. with the veil; as a result, it
= was delightfully."- becoming. This is good
idea and worth remembering, and apropos
OF Weddings. | have always supposed
that the bride selected as her
maids: her sisters. her dearest friends or
cousins. However, / find am behind the
times, for, says a gentlewoman who is
thoroughly au fait and worldly wise: ''In
selecting bridesmaids t is not beauty that
:. counts so much as style and carriage In
: particular you want girls who walk well.
The slow march down the aisle is the best
test OF gait L know. 1t should be
: "a glide-then the slowness is stately. The
. bride herself is helped by her long train
her dropping head. and the leaning on her
fathers arm before and her husbands
after the ceremony. a bridesmaid has but
her own grace to depend on. The girl
whorwalks well, whose head is well set on
;: her shoulders, and whose hair arrauges
- well, makes good appearance, even if
she lacks extraordinary beauty" Well
these hints are valuable if, as / say,
: worldly.
-. do wish all our girls walked and held
themselves properly, for ever the prettiest
lose so much by a careless, ungainly wav
::of throwing themselves around, and it
should be impressed on buds the fact that
= once out they Will be severely criticized.
Their schooldays over, Madam Grundy is
ever on. the outlook and will be merciless
;. in her remarks, so thewise maiden fur
.nishes her with no food for remark or
/. GOSSIP.
;. Many dresses for the coronation have
. :OSen NSSISueu anu mdQe IN Inc
trains are the first consideration.
: One was made of Lyons velvet. 1t
is rounded at the bottom; four wards in
length and of a rarely beautiful shade of
pink. All along the edge of this train is
: a drapery OF black tulle which, at regular
=. intervals, forms a bow in the center; in
the center OF each is a small bunch of black
=: roses. At the lower corners are two large
= punches of black feathers. This train is
lined with. pink satin and ruche of the
same assisted in supporting the train.
The skirt which will be worn with this
:: is of white duchesse satin, quantity en-
broldered in aluminium spangles, mixed
r: with cabochons of paste diamonds These
" take the form of arabesques. The low
bodice is of pink velvet, and has a plastron
'of white satin bordered like the skirt; very
:: small. pulls: OF slashed velvet and satin
form the sleeves, which are in the Gabri-
elle;d Estree style. Pink tulle and rose
=. leaves: powdered with diamonds, form
cTuche around the neck, and on the left
shoulder is a bunch of black ostrich
feathers
: SO great is to be the spIendor of gowns
which Will be seen shortly in st. Peters
burg that all fashion papers will have ac-
counts OF gorgeous robes. and this great
event will have much to do with setting
the fashions for another year. All good
:: descriptions OF gowns from noted houses
abound IN valuable suggestions for those
who can read between the iines
quote a description of two more coro-
nation gowns: "The train of the first was
OF, vert d eau brocade striped with silver,
a style Of the Louis XIII period and also
Russian. The round train was bordered
with white feathers powdered with diamond
dust, and large panache OF feathers at
the corner; the lining was white satin,
and -ruche went round underneath like
the 'one described above. The white satin
was richly embroidered with an arabesoue
pattern carried out with silver, seed pearls
and paste, most brilliant IN effect; from
the bust to the foot of the skirt was
marrow band with very large buttons OF
real diamonds. The bodice of green bro
= cade was Slightly pointed, and to white
satin front embroidered like the skirt, the
. green brocade open with small revers
edged with white feather trimming, and
thus continuing the trimming of the
train round the shoulders; on the
lett side large white panache of feathers.
The. brocade sleeves were the Russian
:: shape, open on the arm, and falling
straight halfway down the skirt, showing
:. the bare arm; this sleeve is mounted on
fiat. band placed on the shoulder The
= third seemed still handsomer; it was
white silk damas, with large golden flow
ers, arranged in an elegant light design:
=. the train was bordered with gold-colored
:: feathers; and lined with yellow satin and
.rnches. The skirt is white satin richly
embroidered with gold spangles and paste
CdDOCHOuo, like shower from the
:. hips to. the foot of skirt. The low bodice.
=: pointed Louis XIV, was embroidered like the
:. skirt. -Fhe sleeves were puff of brocade.
. from which fell the long open Russian
sleeve of white tulle, embroidered with
gold and cabochons. The last two trains
were about four yards and half long.
WecaDnot give too much attention to
the becoming arrangement of our necks.
for no matter how perfect a dress if the
collar, or what is substituted for it, is not
perfect the whole effect is lost, and no
matter what style may be proclaimed de
rigueur by fashion the wise woman studies
her individual outlines, making fashion
subservient to obecomingness. Most women
can wear the turn-down white linen collar
which is now correct for morning wear
They can be obtained in various widths
fixed on to straight bands, which makes
them easy to fasten and all the newest of
the plain silk blouses have turn-down
linen cuffs. Such blouses are made on ex-
acty the same principle as the colored
linen shirt fastening down the center OF
the front with studs or buttons, and they