The morning times., 1896-10-04
THE FRILLED HAT.
Smart French Model Seen at New
York Openings.
Peiqn of Fur and Feathers /:
Commencing.

New York Oct 3.-The week just eHucu
has mari ked the "openIDgs OF severai VI
New York's snarteat iiilliners,- Nho, as
usual. are displaying their styles nearly
month later than the big shops This dis
MAY the milIiLers themselves ueciare neces
sary. as new designs are not settled upon
wbrII the geDcraI shops btg.h theii cL
n,ays In this way the choicest secrets OF
Fashions hat box are kept as long as posi-
BILE from the common puDiic eye, anu uulh
all danger OF promIscuous copylpe Is past
The horse show, which occurs III Nofeiu-
nor il, usuaiIy the event chosen by fashion
ables for the first wearing or winter heau-
gear.
As to the styles for the present autumn
and winter, they are legion iEe new
headgear is OF all shapes ana sizes LOT an
types and in a variety of materials. Ihere
are great, romantic-lookingc clapeauN
lords, with soft crowns or rich mirror
reIyet caught down by jet, steel or Jew
led ornaments: other wide brIniicd hdls
wIa stiu Jain-pOt crowns, TIE shape Gov
cred smoothly with velvet and trimmings,
piles of cancIng feathers auu misty para
! disc aigrettes; little French toqaes ana vast
Russian turbaus, round "bOiero hats ior
fresh young faces and other small round
hats w.th the Brims ruiilcd like a Hover
The ruffled brim, perhaps, Is The new
est thing with the small hats ana Is
much affected by Virot. out of variety
of imported models from the atelicrs OF
this well known artist, there We're two
designs that seemed to have becoming
Qualities but only two, no more. one
sat well back on the mead with the snort
| sides fitting close to the temples, tOlue
| fashion The ruffled front reared up
| ward. bat was waved with loose petal
unevenness which brought i'll strong con-
! trast rich facing Of deep purple VeIFet
| with the white felt OF the hat shape.
| other trimming consisted OF black
| bird with white bill and Il PARADISE tail
| at one side Of the crown, and Il square
! Jet ornament at the other. The second
| ruffled brim shape, which was entirely
| OF emerald green velvet, had the edge
| waved all around low puff crown. a
| light sheathiug of white silk muslin and
| a panaChe OF black Prince OF Wales
! weathers Ut the lett front, omdmente ed
| this model, which Is here pictured. me
| rest of the rufrIed hats looked as II NJ.
/ yirot were just trying his hand TO see
| what he could do.
Ihe fashion OF wearing the large hats
| low over the forehead, until they seem
| ready to tumble off milliners say Is going
| out though theTe are some wldeiy-tfimmrh
shapes turned up at the tack, that wili
| need to he adjust I'd III pretty much the old
| way. But other large hats are running y
| a slight hitting Of Lhe LETT hrim. which gives
| them a cCcky side tilt when posed, ana
| even when not turned up ihcFt Is ii ten
| dency to mass the trimming OF the bacS
more toward the left than evenly In th'
middle as formerly.
| Most OF the small round hats and cs
pecially these on the rufiled order WI
! ne worn sguaTeiy on the head or eisc
little back To show an elaborate arrange
neut uf the hair i'll front. But this arrange
mept will be the despair Of women VIII!
high fureheads and straight hair; pom
! paduur with short, soft curis escaping a
he temples is che proper caper, ana thl
| style. though very charming, is fortunatel
becoming only to low forcheads and crisp
wavy locks.
M one period Of history is represented
IN the ne " 70 shuus. The best of many year
has been stolen from old books and tn
result is n happy melange OF many time
that has AN up-todateness all its OWL
Several Of the Louis have donated thei
titles to both large ard small hats, an
| from their Royal days have teen Copie'
rich tinscl enbruideries to serve as tim
nings. Sometimes these emtFoidenes WI
appear in several pieces On a hat or ther
will be 4 rcuEd rolled brinI covered eI
tirely with an open design: or perhaps
stiff tilIycUok velve crown will be band
ed higher with single precious piece.
high tuft Of tobbing feathers at the LEI
size forming the other trimming.
Amung the Louis XIII collection Of smal
hats there are some rufflcd affairs Chat dt
mend entirely for effect on strong contrast
in color. One mad model Cf velvet wa
hail III one tint, half in another; one sid
green. cue blue: the whole thing dente'
and pitched III and out till / looked like
pretty padding that had gone wrong /
the cooking.