The San Francisco call., 1896-07-05

with bouquets interspersed with lines of
light blue. The bodices to such dresses
are usually mass of the finest embroidery
with frilled basques. but lace jackets are
also liked in the bolero shape, and the
prettiest of corselets are made of glace silk,
which is usually OF red and white pink
and white or blue and white.
Most of the styles about which we
read are designed for those blessed if not
with perfect at least with fairly good fig
ures; the plump maid and matron are
usually quite forgotten, when in reality
they should be shown the greatest consid-
Grafton, and more models should be cre-
ated especially with view to making un-
becoming curves vanish. So with pleasure
make the following quotation, which
may prove useful:
Zone word about the special style of
bodice which never fails to be the most
becoming and helpful for figures which
nature has made too abundant for grace
or beauty. This is the basque bodice, with
the basque cut deeper than usual The
outer material of fronts must be draped
tightly and separately from neck-band to
bottom of the waist or points. 1t matters
not whether the material is wool, silk
or batiste. The front may be open to bust
line, dropping into point. A chemisette
OF lace or lawn, according to gown ma
terial, with ribbon or lace choker. Deep
square collar revers turn back from this
opening. If of silk they are to be COW
cred with fine lace, but if of lawn needle
work is most effective. A plisse lace
drapery should fall from the bottom of
chemisette to the basque ends or points in
perfectly straight line with square finish.
When the gown is of lawn, the same ma
terial tucked or pissed, or an all-over fall
of needlework to match collar revers, will
answer capitally.
"By this style of front the very pro-
nounced lines of the figure appear to
vanish, and the size of the waist is not
made so evident, hence the figure for that
reason is greatly improved and is far more
pleasing to the eye"
For young woman with a beautiful
figure nothing is more stylish than the
Louis XIII bodice; whether built in silk.
tissue, velvet, batiste, it carries its effect
wonderfully. Imagine gauffered straw
colored tissue, with a corded velvet
Bayadere stripe to match as the chosen
material with which to drape crossways
the decollete carre silk under-bodice, OF
the same shade, to be fastened at the side.
The tissue sleeves fall over the hand in
crenated edges, while the upper parts are
very houffant and we'll pushed up. A
picturesque lace collar gives the needed
cachet. An oval of net has rather wide
fiounce of Point de Flandre gathered on
quite full, and is caught in the back by
two diamond buckles. The collar lies
across the shoulders, the drapery arranged
over the sleeves. A ieweled collar or
diamond buckle and velvet is a necessary
neck ornament to wear with this style of
corsage.
One of the hats here given is OF gray
straw draped with gray tulle. over which
ostrich plumes nod gracefully.
/ like the simple Leghorn chapeau.
Around the brim is tulle ruche, and
wide velvet band encircles the crown. A
pair of good white ostrich tips beautify
one side, and bunch of pink roses nestle
at the base of the feathers.
The hat with the queer "jam-pot crown"
has brim formed of drawn black net, the
crown being of white lace. A great bow
of ribbon and cluster of roses give it the
true Partisan air.
For the Fete des Fleurs has been de