The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1896-03-15
ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
1 Jacket Fashion 50 Ugly That II Could
Not Die.
POKES and TOQUES FOR EASTER.
The Shoulder Straps OF Ball Dresses
The New sleeve and the SALIVA
ZIONIST Bonnets-Pretty
Gowns.


Copyright, 1890, 1Or Inc AiiheSi
The weeds in Fashions garden bour-
seon and bloom without tending, and the
fairest flowers need most constant care'
quite as in ruder elds.
There was last fall a peculiar box coat
of English invention, so cuiiously ugly
that IL could not fail 10 live. as 1t mas
done. and thrive II was or the shape
of a soap box. perfectly square down
the sides and across The bottom whlcn
was then cut well down by the hlps'
The soap box coat has begun To adorn
Itself, to shine like a parvenu in her oia-
monds. 1t has grown shorter. until now
{. barely clears the waist II was at
first designed in strong cloths for driving
and coaching merely, but now IL Hauhts
sleeves Of MORE. and epaulets with
broidered edges, and a machicolated col
lar and wide pleats down the front al
ternating with perpendicular STRIPS OF
MORE or novelty velvet, or figured lace
over satin. or such gay stufis; and next
II will take TO itself. no doubt, the colors
from which IT has thus far refrained
and we may see Ii in yellow cloth with
black stripes or pink with salmon, or red
with black. or green with red.
And the driving coat Of late 'so is thus
become the new spring jacket OF early
SO. with mayhap a career before IL, bless
ed be folly.
This Is worth noting by way OF conso-
Iation. that IT is indeed an ugly gown
or wrap which a pretty woman may not
wear, to the confounding Of seasons.
The Easter tide will have need Of pref
ty ball and dinner dresses again. and
they are now being fashioned. The
shoulder strap is the badge OF all their
tribe. Three out Of four Of the new
evening gowns have IT, generally In dark
decision and emphasis of color; and at
least a third have the new sleeves. whose
scant outlines are for the moment mask
cd by fluffy epaulets. One evening bod
ice Of unusually theatrical herceness mas
a wide collarette over double chiffon
founce, restrained in the very act OF
sliding off the shoulders by adequate
looking strips Of black velvet. And more
OF the velvet Is crossed upon the front
OF the bodice. en1i.g in a huge bow at
either side of the waist
charming frock OF white satin with
round sleeves in the older mode has
short bodice whose loose front Is cover
ed with sequined net, and whose square
decolletage is outlined with embroidery.
There is a satin band at the waist and
others at the shoulders negative the sug-
gestion that the gown might else slide
off the polished arms Of the wearer.
Half the gowns have this slipping-off
effect Hence the shoulder straps, meant
to reassure the eye-or cheat 1T, accord
ing to the beholder. Let me describe an
other gown with no such device:
1t is made of mauve glace silk with a
bodice of chiffon in the same shade. and
the yoke and the braces and the long In
pels are strongly brought out in black,
with big figured cream lace applique upon
It,
Enough, perhaps. Of the gowning OF
an Easter week that is not yet There
IS the bonnet to consider.
ModfGoI If hOnnaf
quite in line with the springs promises
not the long poke through which as
down a tunnel one peered in grandma
Tiers days at tho face beyond, but
shallower and airier poke with an up
ward and outward spreading front. vary
ing from that Of a Salvation Army kept
10 the crimpled outer edge of seasheil.
Whatever trimming Of plume and rib
bon there be is piled far back upon the
tiny crown, the underside Of the br'm is
smothered In lace. white or black. and
the whole contriyance is pushed well
back; no. there is nothing dim or tunnel
like about tho poke OF 1896. And the
Salvation shape Is pretty enough. give
II but the bright colors. Enterprising
modistes are already referring to certain
Of these new shapes as the Booth" or
the 'Balllngton." names somewhat in
favor even In fashionable New York.
But there are others. The spring bon
net Is not confined 10 the shell shapes.
There is to be q good countenancing de-
mand for the picture hat in moderate
sizes. and for the bewitchlng toque mo
bigger than an agate stone upon tho fore
finger OF an alderman"
Spring will bring the straw braids, of
course. msry Of them the rough fancy
stra~s With which we have In former
seasons been familiar, but In new loops,
frirges. points. patterns. and caracoles.
There are plain straws. iridescent col
ers. and Persian arabesqucs In weaving.
Some braidmakers have even gone so
far as 10 weave Scotch clan tartans In
straw Of strong prime colOrs. These
self-asserting patterns In the braid re-
Quire emphatic colors In the trimming
such as are furnished by scores and
bands OF duchesse purple. or navy blue
which is now known as matelot blue, as
II the French word made IL any finer.
There is compensation in. all the uni
verse. hence IT Is no surprise to find
hat the little hats have bigger crowns
than the big hats; the walking shapes in
felt have narrow brims curling high in
the sides and low at the ends in q shape
some what suggestive OF the turban
though the rolled sides do not hug the
crown quite as close as In that model.
Quilted net will figure prominently in
the list Of trimmings. along with chiffon
titAttS1 oidIiltS tune IN Wllte.
black and colors. Flowers will be pro-
fuse. and there is a great influx OF fancy
ribbons from Paris-where they will wear
plain ones themselves, be II added.
There are ribbons with sombre effects.
and ribbons with Dresden roses and Chi
"a designs. crepon prints. printed vel.
vets. mirror velvets. Japanese plisse and
nlk muslins plain and bordered High
novelties" are the ribbons In Persian
grounding. and Damascus embroidery.
rermicelll fgures. velvet FORMATIONS, ON
bre stripes OF metal threads; ornbre
r~unsins sith Wild variety % stripes.
SifetA in narrow Giacs stripes: siace
With printed borders or metal patterns
" taffeta edges: broche figures. Bayadere
gibbons with stripes In the warp da-
mask ribbons. plaided ribbonA Palmer
1bbons In delicate tints will no doubt
rove In better taste, especially for hats
" bonnets with long ribbon ties.
The short basque skirts still survive.
according to the universal law limited al
the beginning OF this rambling &C.
count: and there will be with tho FIRST
vsrm weather Z sudden revival Of the
nAhnD ie~S $4,000 s>-A l>.~slHe 49,