Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1896-02-23
&:ssx<'''A
C, FROM !
II RARIs.;-.y


Paris is all a-shimmer. The SUN rides
in the heavens, and on earth there Is
such a reign of glitter as history falls to
record as ever having taken place In the
previous history OF clothes. In the pauses
between some dull after-dinner speaking
at a banquet" the other night, Coquelin
said. quite seriously. after looking around
upon the toilets Of the women present:
isn't II theatrical?" And fashion has
surely become tremendously theatrical.
The cloth OF gold and precious stones
are elbowed right and left by paste and
shams Of various other sorts. Real gems
are In great favor for jewels for necks
and arms, but for gowns and millinery,
couture ornaments and the like, the
spangles which formerly were the pro-
perty of the stage and circus ring are
sparkling riotously all over smart society
women. The effects are strikingly radiant
and splendid, but very narrow line d.
vides the permissible from the outre, and
there's great danger OF getting upon the
wrong side of that line.
At the dinner / speak OF a woman who
was beautiful enough TO know better had
allowed her dressmaker to spoil superb
dress OF ivory satin and spple-green vel
vet and rose point by draping the bodice
with so much spangle wrought tulle that
the superior beauty OF the satin, lace,
and velvet was quite eclipsed. Nine
Pelletier-Vidal. on the other had showed
me gown yesterday, OF which l will
send you a sketch. In which nice sense
OF discrimination prevailed. II was a blue
velvet, with deep, soft. rich tones, made
with superlativey plain skirt, and a
curious bodice. From the back the bodice
looked TO be straight sacque untitled. In
the front II hung loose as far as the first
bias line: thence the fronts were fitted to
the figure for the width of one dart. and
cut away to show a waistcoat in the form
of n jersey-fitting underbodce. This was
Of black satin. picked out with leaves of
gold made with minute spanges. The
skirt Of the dress and the coat through.
cut were lined with pale gold silk. and
there was just enough gold all told 10
produce an indescribably rich effect, with
no suggestion of tawdriness. The small
round hat was of blue ribbon and black
chenille plated. with black satin bows,
aigrette. and a gold buckle.
Buttons are omnipresent Nine Eames
Story wore an attractive gown the other
morning at private view that Is worthy
plicity-not always found together. The
material was n gauffer crepe In black.
made with q skirt and blouse: the skirt
opened down The left side, over a pucke-
red panel very narrow, OF black mousse
line de sole. lined with white. the lower
edges being held by some dull Jet buttons.
The sleeves were cut oddly, the mass OF
plaits being held by smooth plat car
ried past the axm-seam onto the shout
MT. a .n
front, and full on the sides and under
the arms, the effect being to quite hide
the arm-seam, the disposal OF the trim
ming being such as to produce double
breasted effect in front The trimming
was a narrow band of black marabout,
which Is suddenly coming into favor. Tho
way in which the sleeves fared over the
hands is especially liked by Partisan wo-
men. The collar was abnormally high ana
a trife faring. The belt was a smooth
strap OF dull jetted cloth, Tapped and
fastened with a button. Jet buttons are
exempt from dissatisfaction II they are
handled carefully, but the steel and silver,
and especially the gilt ones, need TO be
prayed over. and tended as carefully as
an infant IL one hasn't maid. one had
better eschew them. for In this rustic
scuttle life one can't herself take time
TO twist each one of several dozen but
tons in tissue paper every time a gown
is taken off.
Everything Is glittering; buttons are
upon everything; neckwear Is mountain
Gus. and maddeningly expensive, unless,
again, one has a quick-hngered, clever |
maid or is herself past-mistress and pres |
ent master of the needle; everything Is
slashed to let something else show
through; and there is rage for all the
soft, fluffy, floating fabrics, chiffons, ana
tulles and mousseline de soies, ana all
the thousand and one variations upon
these. OF course. all the airy-fairy-lAlllan
sort OF stuffs are reserved Tor evening
wear, when IL comes to gowns, out LOT
day wear they are fluffed about the throat |
or show as fans or fine Fittings in the
slashings Of velvet capes, etc. The NOUS
seline de sole gowns are mounted upon
silken robes, and instead OF being nned
with silk are simply draped over 1t with
softer and more graceful effect.
Paquin has a pale-biue moussellne de
sole that has the unusual features OF
long. wide sash, and the pretty auditiohs
of some violet-hower garnitureS Tne
mousseline is draped over the white tar
fetas. and the bottom OF the"skirt. as
Won will see In the sketch. is finished or
with a crushed band. This Is OF pale-blue
velvet with a white-lace edging at the
top and bottom. The sash Is Of the velvet
and the bodice Is Of the mousseline. en-
hroidered with violets. The puffed sleeves
end in ruffles OF lace, and the low corsage,
which Is lower on the sides than just In
front shows an edging OF lace.
The tout ensemble Is very charming,
because the airy effect has not been
spoiled by overlooking the gown with
trimming.
Some Of the new silk muslins that show
all-oyer embroideries are made into won
derfully pretty dancing frocks, In ac-
cordion-piaited models. Paquin has
gown under way for rich American
matron sojourning here for few days,
on her way to Genoa. 1t Is Of black satin,
made with flare skirt and coat bodice,
the latter with decided basque, after
the manner OF the Louis XIV. period;
the waistcoat is OF white satin. showing
below and above the waIst-line where
G6&