Evening star., 1896-07-25
FASHIONS FOR MEN
The Proper Neglige Costumes for Mid
summer.
knfckerbOckers and Scotch Stock.
tfOn Hats and Shirts.
From IIarper's Bazar.


LILY but little about fashions fabrics.
He secured his warm-weather wardrobe
! early in the spring, and he is a bit conserv-
ative about making new investments until
the frost and the nipping air positively
force him. And yet this between-the-
| sons time is often period of perplexity. We
know that summer is an excuse for wearing
all sorts and conditions of garments, SO long
as they are slightly ard comfortable. In
the last few years a slow but sure revolu-
ton has been effected, and the neglige
which was thought proper and fit in the
early nineties would not be tolerated now.
The source of this change has been the
rapid popularity of the transplanted game of
COLL 1t has had also a powerful aid in
the wheel, and both combined have given
| us most rational and smart lounge cos
tune for the season of outing. When golf
was first Introduced 1t was thought neces-
sary TO wear heavy tweeds, Shetland waist
coats. Highland CATERS, sweaters and
thickly lined Norfolk jackets. The severe
climate Of the coast Of Scotland, where golf
| is in its glory, the frequent showers and
| cold winds. made such garments practical
there hut in the temperature which pre-
walls from Bar Harbor to the Chesapeake
| they are decidedly ridiculous and uncomfort-
able. The latest and most popular golf
suits ale made from brown Holland or lin
en-. They come In three pieces-"knicker''
trousers, short sack coat and waistcoat.
discarded. The trousers button below the
knee and are met by Scotch long hose, the
tops OF which are turned over. but not to
show the bare leg, as some golf enthusi-
asts would make you suppose is the cor
rect thing" If linens are not liked then
thin tweed of brown or gray can be worn.
And this suit is not for golf alone, but
| is adaptable for wheeling walking, hunt
| ing and, in fact, for an all-round neglige
The English, borrowing an East Indian
| term, call it ''muft,' and now the word is
| very generally used throughout America.
Morning Costume.
Another very pleasing and fashionable
| morning attire frequently seen at the
| smart watering places consists Of white
| duck flannel trousers and a black serge
| sack coat and waistcoat, or this last arti-
Gle may he also of duck, double breasted.
| The trousers should be turned up at the
| bottoms, and tan or russet shoes worn.
| A narrow -brimmed, rather high-crowncd
| straw hat with a black ribbon completes
| this costume.
If morning or lounge suit must be worn
| then choose a shepherds plaid i'm grays or
| a light brown tweed. These morning sack
| suits have rather short coats-one would
| almost call them jackets-with waistcoa is,
| IL in the same material, cut in the no-collar
| style, and trousers la peg-top. The but
| tons should be of horn. The brown linen
| waistcoats which were imported from Eng
land In the spring have become very pop
ular and give a little touch of picturcsqe-
| ness to the costume if used instead of those
matching the coat and trousers
These three classes of costume comprise
the best character of neglige, and although
man would hesitate possibly at going to
a garden party or a luncheon in knicker-
bockers. he would be very well dressed if
he wore either of the other two, or the
always popular and smart blue serge or
flannel lounge. The frock coat and the
tall hat are out Of place, except at we'd
dings and very formal affairs anywhere i'm
TntV AZ
At Newport, which is the most fashionable
watering place possibly on the Atlantic
coast, the top-hat is becoming a rarity
At all the hotel hops and at the smaller
watering places, except on the occasion of
ball or a fol NAL dinner the Tuxedo or
dinner coat is being worn A narrow black
SILK tie has taken the place Of the satin
rms tie has square ends, and is adjusted
In simple bow. The other novelty of the
summer. and one which will be in vogue
until Thanksgiving. is the double breasted
White pique waistcoat worn on formal
afternoon occasions. with the double
breasted frock coat, and even with lounge
suits. This waistcoat is cut moderately
low. shaped, with a collar, and has q
double row Of smoked pearl buttons.
Shirts.
The carnival of color which was prom
ised in the early spring was perhaps nipped
in the bid by the inclement May and June.
Colcred shirts are almost universal. and
those with unstarched bosoms and large
buttons have become very popular, but the
hues are subdued. The apple greens and
the chrome yellows have disappeared. As
In the cloths of the season, brown seems to
be the favorite color. and stripes are vet
the fashionable pattern. Dark blues and
bright but not too glarng pinks and laven-
deis are also in favor. The collar in vogue
is the all-around turn-down, and a small
bow OF silk or OF cotton remains the fash
ion. Even these are seer much more In
the old favori;e designs, dark blue, black.
rel or green ba ackgr0undS with tiny dots
crescents or figures in white. The lotion
ties are in blues, browns, lavenders and
pinks. TO match the shirts. The Madras
combination is also fashionable but being
trifle glaring, it is not seen Oh very we'll
dressed rien.
The many-ribboned straw hat mas gone,
and with it the straw Alpine A few PAN
anna StrawS were fashionable in the begin
ming of the season, but the straw hat has
black ribbon, is narrow of briln and a
bit high of crown.
The russet shoe holds its own. although
the black leather is seen more in town
Black leather shoes in the country require
too much care, and they are not made for
walking in the sands or on dirt roads
In England very popular lounge suit
has been called the university i'm honor
possibly, of the races. 1t is practicable
the same as is always fashionable i'm this
&C untry.