The Indianapolis journal., 1896-04-06
GOWNS OF THE SPRING
THE SUBJECT OF DRESS MUCH DIS
CUsSED BY WOMEN JUST NOW.


over2 is the absorbing question, beside
which all the earlier resolutions Of self
denial become a foggy uncertainty. Fashion
seems to put forth every effort at this par
ticular season to entice all womankind into
her net, and fascinating combinations of
color and materials of every conceivable
kind are displayed in the most tempting
manner. But the conventional new gowns
for Eastern festivities must have some con-
sideration, so women can easily crafty
their vanity without much of struggle
with their conscience.
Silks of every kind, except India and
Surah, head the list of fashionable materi-
ais for dressy gowns, and mohair. alpaca,
canvas and grenadines of silk or wool, or
both mixed. are leading favorites in dress
goods. In fact all transparent fabrics are
desirable in style for the coming season,
and they are made up over black. white or
colored silks. Wool canvas comes in vary
ing degrees of thickness, both loosely and
coarsely woven, and finer quality is some
times called etamine. Other kinds are
still softer, and any Of the grades,
in shades Of tan beige, are sure
to be good style; but not all of them wear
well. as the threads sometimes pun out.
Novelties in canvas have silk flowers on
the surface, and are broken into large
plaids by colored silk stripes beige
or gray ground. Grenadines will be
fowered stripes on a black ground, alter
mated with black satin, are especially eftec-
tive made up over black silk. The tenden-
extend the usefulness of gauze and chiffon,
and the latest novelties IN these are pat
termed all over in Persian or fowered de-
signs in soft oolors. There is long series
of thin fabrics between canvas and gauze.
and any of these open-meshed weaves made
over colored silk has a changeable ERECT
ure of the new in fashions. Old-time flow
cred grenadines and gauze will be the lead
ing fabrics for elaborate gowns. Brown
tunia red makes very stylish gowns, but of
course the silk must be vivid in color TO
get good effect unless the dress Is made
side. For example, one fancy is to show the
silk in narrow band at each seam in the
skirt, and, in combination with the material
in the waist, fowered silks are sometimes
used and one gown of tan canvas has
yoke, and the upper half of the sleeve pun
of fowered silk, A narrow applique Of yell
low lace cOversl the seam and finishes the
edge OF the yoke. Round oval ivory but
tons are an effective trimming on gray or
tan canvas.
FouIard silks have come around into style
again because Of their glossy surface, no
doubt as everything this season is to De stif
and shiny rather than soft and clinging Old
fashioned glace silks, similar to those worn
thirty years ago. and brocaded poult de sole
are both very popular with taffetas striped
flannel, checked and chamelon. OF every de-
gree OF stiffness following. In their train;
Black brocades, plain satins and inquired
black taffetas much used for the early
spring gowns, and the last are especially
serviceable for really hard wear. But these
white satin and lace. or some color in the
waist, green being very effective. This Is
also the case with dark gowns OF wool ma
'e''A' THE COAT BODICE.
The coat bodice is the prevailing STYLE and
in some instances it is cut quite long, but in
nearly every case the basque effect is there,
even though it commences on the hips and
forms a ruff1e across the back only. Fancy
vests of flowered silk, satin or brocade in
light colors, and the elaborate collar bands
which are such a feature of the new gowns,
make the plainest coat waist very dressy.
Vests of accordion-plaited chiffon and net
with lace edgings are quite as popular as
ever, but the collar and belt are the points
which receive most attention just at present.
Collars are cut higher in the back than they
were formerly, and, besides the ribbon band
and bow, there is ruche of plated silk,
chiffon loops of black velvet ribbon or lace
set in the edge. Striking contrasts of color
are another feature OF the new collar, and
bright green with blue is one of the favorite
combinations. Belts are treated in the same
manner as regards color, and they are of all
widths from the inch band to folded pointed
girdle of some considerable width, decorated
back and front with fancy buttons and
trimmed on the edge with applique lace or
rows of narrow ribbon.
equally suitable for silk or wool goods, is
one of tan cloth, with wide collar, tabs, and
square revers of petunfa ve-vet braided
with gold and tan. The full vest of soft
cream white satin is shirred in three little
ruches across the bust. The skirt which
accompanies this is also Of tan cloth. with
band of petunia velvet and braiding at
the bottom. A second coat is pretty for
light silk and evening wear, with dark SILK
skirts. Mauve with a cream-white vest anu
bination, with white feather trimming on
the edge and a jabot of lace at the neck.
A stylish effect is gained In the third model
silk, by revers and vest Of black silk, en-
broidered in soft shades of rose mauve and
green. These dressy coat waists are some
times made with shorter sleeves, which
reach Just below the elbow. and are finished
with fri.l Of lace. Another coat has very
pointed revers, braided around the edge on
a narrow band of cloth in pale shade of
the same color, which is gray, and the vest
is of green silk with lace bow and jabot al
the neck. A Louis XVI coat of black satin
is cut in one with the basque. which has
the usual flutes at the back allowed at the
seams. 1t is lined with white. and the
vest of white satin Is braided with gold
and silver and fastened at one side. TIE
one of white satin, and the effect Is pain
but very striking.
VELVET COATS
Velvet coats will be much worn on the
street as soon as 1t is warm enough to dis
card outside wraps, and one dressy model
i'm dark green has wide shawl-lke revers
which form a full cape over the sleeves,
ending in the armhole at the back. and
covered with wide cream lace. The belt of
black satin ends in three loops at either
side, and the vest of cream white silk has
the usual frill Of lace and bands of black
satin braided with gold are on either side
White pique. trimmed with row of small
brass buttons Is used in the same way.
peeping out in narrow band from either
side of the coat, when the gown is of some
dark wool, and the vest may be of white
satin Just the same. A gown of brown silk
strewn with shirred pink flowers, and made
with plain skirt and coat waist lined with
pink, brown velvet revers, and vest of
cream white satin nearly covered with
among useful and stylish dresses
Mohair and alpaca figure largely on the
list of new gowns for Easter and for wear
later in the season. Alpaca and mohair
are quite different in texture, although the
words are synonymous in the minds OF
some people. Mohair is said to be the fleece
of the Angora goat of the Orient IL is
il can be dyed any color. Alpaca is from
the goat OF South America, and is usu-
ally brown or black or mixed colOrs, with
very little White In its natural state: so
anything lighter than dark gray is sure
to be mohair Many tailor gowns are made