The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-06-21

| eQgeQ Inc scarf which passed at the Sues
of the buttons and extended round the
basque. The sleeves were cut in the
| latest fashion and closely fitted the arm,
Although pulled all the way up at the
waist, there was ruff of Valenciennes
| lace. The soft neckband was made OF
changeable silk.
The very latest shirt is OF fine white
linen set into broad tucks down the front
with hemstitchlngs; it has rundown
collar and rundown cuffs. Others pos
sessing many attractive features are OF the
sheerest French batiste, every seam hav-
ing narrow beading and true-lover
knots down the front are hand embroid-
cred. the collar and cuffs are of real Val
enciennes, most comfortable for the short
necked, plump woman. However, they
are the most expensive shirts made. The
novelties among less expensive kinds are
of colored batiste in yellow. pink, blue or
mauve, with narrow strappings OF white
at the seams and down the sleeves. Great
favorites are those of grass lawn, with
numberless tucks and frills of lace down
the front With some of these shirts are
worn neckties of muslin having their lit
tie ends tucked and edged with lace.
Plaid ties are also in vogue.
Bandana handkerchief blouses are in
great demand, as the bright colors wash
perfectly and are generally becoming.
Four handkerchiefs only are required.
Ribbons in close set loops frequently
form the basque to blouse, and tight-fitting
bodices set into the waistband, which is
pointed in front.
The lace, mousseline de sole and chiffon
ruffs are becoming positively grotesque in
size. / always feel sorry when a pretty
girl covers her lovely throat with one of
them in the evening, but then, to be sure.
| am equally glad when painfully slen-
der woman uses this article of apparel to
cover personal defect. Many ruches are
being made out of white silk yelling In
stead of chiffon or mousseline.
For the adornment of trains new style
has been discovered. Killings Of tulle have
been arranged round and round like an
old-fashioned bouquet. In the center of
the tulle appeared ribbons and flowers.
Only last year diamonds began to be ex-
tensiyely used on ball dresses. Now skirts
having every seam traced with diamonds
are frequently seen and corselet bodices
are covered with them. Above them is
usually seen a chemisette of rare old lace.
These bright little stones have taken the
place OF sequins in great measure,
although sometimes they are used in COM
bination. Jewels now are to be used in
such profusion that the makers of arti-
fetal gems are fourishing greatly. and so
| perfect are many of the limitations that
some of the wealthiest women are using
| them in preference to their rare stones.
1 A l.. FL
the past among smart women, as when
| limitations are introduced Dame Fashion
shrugs her shoulders in disgust and her
| followers do likewise, so wise matrons
and maidens do not invest in any tawdry
tinery, for you will have many opportuni-
ties to spend your dollars in purchasing
rarely good pieces of silks and other fab
RIGS during the summer sales, which will
do excellent service later on. However,
do not intend to lecture on this subject as
some women will always purchase we'll
and wisely, and others will insist on col
! lecting lot of odds and ends that can never
by any chance.be utilized with any idea of
economy. For instance, we have all heard
/ of the shopper who goes out and discovers
always just exactly the right shade Of vel
vet or whatever is needed to make an old
costume great success. while her sister
| will bring home yards of an expensive ma
terial which will combine with nothing
she wears, and at length she has to leave
| it in her dressmaker's hands to match.
All learn by experience something about
pure hasing wisely, but for my part think
one is naturally good or bad shopper.
And what do you suppose is the latest
ldiosyncrasy of the day? The red hat! 1t
must be simply dreadful according to my
ideas, but it has not vet reached our
shores; however, it is coming. One is de-
scribed as being of the brightest cerise
straw and another of the darkest crimson.
The trimmings are either crimson roses,
shading into pink; punches of cherries
tied with cerise-colored ribbons, or black
feathers in com bination with red tulle
rushes. This fad will be of short duration,
as one quickly wearies of so pronounced
color. The deep crimson hat, however
trimmed with black tulle and black ostrich
tips is not so bad for a decided brunette
Many gowns continue to be made hav-
ing skirts and sleeves alike, the bodice
which ends at the waist line, being IN
marked contrast. Ali skirts are plain and
fat on the hips, moderate godets behind,
quite round, and they show tendency to
become shorter. MARCELLA.