The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-07-10
ideas fnr dMo1nen.

The sunshine at the races and other
outdoor gatherings his week showed
the many dainty Summer costumes at
their best. says the Paris correspondent
Of the "PhtladeiDr;a Press In the
gowns seen generally we are carried
back twenty-five years ago, and find wo-
men wearing printed muslins and en-
bvoidered lawns with large hats covered
with flowers. Indeed, light materials and
fairly astonishing hats are the prevailing
notes of the feast Of bright color and
eiry draperies suddenly revealed to US.
Balloon sleeves are notably disappearing,
and q more artistic shape finds favor in
skirts, which are close enough below the
waist 10 dot justice to the figure. and
spread out toward the hem in handsome
folds, OF else are soft and rNlowy. gath
cred or accordion pleated' under a sash
These latter have always a full bodice
and chsnisette. and the soft silk or rib
bon sash is swathed high. round the
waist.
Grass lawns, whether in deep ecru or
white. with tiny. perforations and Swiss
embroidery. are invariably made up over
plain or sho silk, the colors equally and
chiefly employed for this purpose being
a clear lettuce green, mauves corn
flower blue, and pink Of either the PIN
pernel or Rubens tints. this latter being
the very bright rose which was so much
admired by the beauties of the last CEN
fury. IN crepe de Chine this tone is
somewhat softened IN the technicalities
OF the weaving, and is then very charm
Eng for young girls wear, whom il seems
70 suit equally wen whether they are
fair or dark. Natural roses are worn in
the bodice. and the favor Just now ex-
tended TO this form of garniture is largely
due TO the pretty and useful Elysee pin,
invented by a very welI-known countess
In society. for fastening floral trimmings.
The usual finish 10 these crepe dresses
IS a Marie Anloinette fchu, edged with
cream lace, or else small frills of NOUS
seine de sole, which reappear at the foot
of the skirt. The flowers then are sex at
the waist, q little to one side.
Lawn gowns. on the other hand, almost
invariably have the bodice made with q
deep chenisette, forming a yoke or a
large collar. In either case it is more or
less elaborately embroidered and has in
sertions and quIliings of yalenciennes
lace. Sometimes, too. it has a tiny coat
Of ouave with embroideries in high re-
lief Of flowers and foliage. AS q rule, a
lawn skirt to match is worn, but with a
very elaborate lawn blouse. a skirt Of
mousseline de sole is sometimes seen. A
folded neckband and a very deep sash of
a contrasting and generally bright shade
always go with them. Printed muslins
are to be had in all colors, but in the en-
broidered. descriptions white cream or
saffron yellow are most favored. In
make they follow a marked Louis XVI
style, while the large hats which accom-
pany them with their masses of tulle,
ribbons and flowers. for trimmings are
derived In idea from the Trianon. So
also are the little straw toques, with their
wreathings and loops of tulle. fastened
by outstanding aigrettes or combined
flowers and feathers. This period is sug-
gested, too, in the pretty capes OF shot
tafTeta, pinked and ruched at the edges,
with their rounded collars and ruffs of
tulle or lace, all pieated and finished in
front with 5abot-iike bows. while shot
taseta itself was. as we all know, the
distinctive fabric OF the eighteenth CEN
-.tf4 9Guy-1
rury. With them there are the pretty
striped silks, as well as those dainrily-
Powered and sprdgged with roses. Most
black and white striped Pekins. figured
with rose-buds. forget-me-pots, pinks and
violets. and in perfect taste. too, are those
which have somewhat larger blossoms
hazily into the warp. Such gowns
can of course. be much elaborated by
lace or mousseline de sole: and Very short
capes of black fasi1e. lined with white
satin. and much trimmed with lace, har-
monte delightfully."- with all costumes in
which black and white are dominant
features.
Very much worn are closeiy-striped tat
fetas in ali combinations, as blu and
white. mauve and white, pink and white.
either trimmed with mousseiine de sole
or Venetian guipure laid over white satin.
Sleeves and skirt should match, and the
collar band and waist belt should be of
the prevailing color Of the stripes. AT the
Grand Prfx the dress of the Princess de
Croy was very much noticed. It was a
heiiotrope and white-strtped Pekin. with
trimmings Of pink mousseifne de sole
and white lace. La Barronne eslandes
had a very effective gown also of the
narrowest black and white stripes made
perfectly plain and fitting exquisitely.
La Marquise de Bauvoir wore a lovely
dress Of white silk with mauve flowers
and white lace, and a sash Of buttercup-
yellow satin. Another lady well known
IN society had selected a saffron-yeIlow,
muslin dotted with blue floral sprays, and
trimmed with turquoise ribbons. Very
successful. 100. was a corn-colored linen
trimmed With black lace, and another
that I remarked was a very clear Indian
muslin mad up over pink silk and turned
back with appiiques d'Argentan. An
other noticeable dress was Of white taft
feta. showing glimpses and ruchings of
a lining Of sea-green satin. In quite
a different style, again, was a cream
gaze de sole with beautiful hand-painted
clusters Of flowers upon 1t. The skirt
was gathered, and the very full bodice
was trimmed with cascades of lace. and
drawn in at the waist under an extreme
~ wide sash Of skyblue satin. White
costumes are very numerous everywhere.
One finds them in pique, which is taking
the place Of the older duck or drill. and
trimmed with embroidery or turned back
with oyerhang.ngs Of yaienciannes. White
accordeon pleated gaze de sole also finds
favor. On the other hand. black is also
~.--. - .-A "