The San Francisco call., 1896-04-26

with a black ground. The front extends
in long ends almost to the hem of the
skirt, and is adorned with a pieating of
black chiffon, edged with small black
satin ribbon. AT the throat the ruching
is wide, the chiffon being intervened with
loops of pompadour ribbon. A cape from
London has a fronting black net with ap-
plique of copper-colored velvet traced with
Jet. At the waist there is a belt of the
same. The sleeves are of copper and green
shot silk. the rest outlined with frlll of
black lace and jet, falling in fiounces from
long straps of velvet, which ornament the
front. This is only suitable garment for
a very slender woman, being too fussy and
frilly for her stouter sister.
Of course the style of the time of Marie
Antoinette is the newest in capes, and
very charming it is. The long square ends
reach to the feet, and are beautified with
rucbing and trimming of tulie, net or
chiffon.
The rufies now being worn by fashion
able women round their throats are, gen.
orally speaking, very unbecoming, and
should not be given a moments considera-
ton, if not of good material, and if they do
not suit the style of the woman contem-
plating them. / have seen one huge, hide
Gus, horrid affair MADE of cheap net
which surrounded the throat of q
red-faced short-necked woman. The re-
Sulb Cdu Dc lLudSlucC. IL Is sale 10 say
that fashions leaders will soon drop this
fancy. as already the reproductions of
beautiful models are maddeningly gro
tesaue.
brunette with beautiful coloring has a
blouse bod ice which suits her admirably.
being of cherry silk with an applique of
cream white lace, outlined with Jet beads.
This takes the form of pointed corselet
and sort of ZOuave cut into ia bs," edged
wi th int initnsinaI kIltjno Of hi aplr oh
fon. The sleeves are veiled with the same
chiffon.
A corsage from Felix is cut in Figaro
style with position basque, Directoire
revers and Medicis collar OF white satin,
completed with flounce of silk gauze."
Very picturesque is bodice of blue can
vas, with yoke and braces in one, of red
cloth, traced with gold and silver. This
Is labeled by Redfern "Circassian," and
| Circassian also is deep corseiet of white
cloth braided in gold. which with a
pouched top of white and yellow striped
silk form most delightful waistcoat.
| This excellent tailor has just completed a
costume of Siberia brown cloth, with a
| magenta waistcoat braided in black, show
| ing a white silk shirt front and little lace
cravat.
! There has just been given q very sue
cessful Model Doll Show in New York
| for charity. 1t was held at Sherry's. and
must have been a most interesting and
beautiful sight each dressmaker of prom
lnence being allowed to send one or more
dolls arrayed in model costume. Large
crowds of fashionable women and children
attended this exhibition, and among many
models one of the most admired was a
gown which had white piaue skirt, with
a band of heavy Irish point about one
third way up the skirt. The blouse bodice
was composed of lisse, with insertions o.
lace. With this goes short double cape
of pique, with bands of Irish point. The
hat was made of shirred green satin and
white lace. Grass lawn will find pique g
formidable rival ere the season is over.
l must really quote for you a description
OF beautiful mauve satin: 'The skirt il
] formed in rather wide accordion pleats al
round, two panels of broad Alencon inser.
/ ton jeweied with tiny paste buttons being
| carried down both sides OF the front. The
/ bodice is also pleaied and has a gracefully
| draped garniture of the same yeIlowish
lace powdered in the new way with small
brilliants. A bunch Of the roses and hello
trope catch the lace butterfly low on one
side. Puffed sleeves turned up very high
complete lovely gown"
In Paris it is now the style to wear low
necked dinner gowns, the French, a.
least, having adopted the English idea
One OF the most elaborate of recent din
| ners was given by the Vicomtesse Villain
The table was decorated with true artistic
grace. the centerpiece being composed O
Parma violets and cowslips, which were
also scattered over the entire table. Thi
affair was especially noted in Paris owing