The San Francisco call., 1896-05-03


pecially good for the matron of so and up
ward.
You would all enjoy seeing dressing
gown worn by a very youthful mother.
III as or the palest blue cashmere, with
very large collar, cut into points of white
silk, striped with lace insertion and edged
Win lace frill. The neck is cut slightly
V, the large collar folding over the figure
anu fastening at one side just below the
waist, with a Partisan diamond button;
tne gown is gathered in at the waist and
Ihe sleeves are of the monk order.
Inc lining is of white silk, and with it is
worn an under-petticoat OF white accor-
dion silk. An extravagant but lovely
garment.
Numerous are the morning gowns made.
a ! Empire, with a lace yoke and a long,
wlde sash tied under the arms in a bow;
In the front fine cashmere III pale tints is
very generally used for such purpose.
The sleeves have high puffs, otherwise
tney Ut snugly; sometimes they fall over
the hands. The sash, if it does not match
the gown, should be black, but l like it to
match, but, of course, one can have belt
In the front beneath the arm or passed
round the waist at the back through the
sloe seams to the front. 1t should be re-
memDered that in the union the becoming
ness OF coiors must be carefully studied.
flnk In delicate tones suits most blonds
ana oeml- bionds, but pale blue crimson is
usually best for the real brunettes.
mat the bicycle and appropriate cos
tunes to wear when on it are keenly in
terestlng topics cannot be doubted, so the
success of 'drhe Gay Parisienne' was as
sured before its production in London,
when it became noised abroad that fetch
ing olcyclette and clim bing costumes were
70 De worn. The costume for the wheel is
only MT for the stage, so l omit descrip-
tlon, as none of US would care to appear
ynrhA Il J, ob.a4 !,
navy blue. They are accordion pleated,
however. The mountaineering costumes
are better, being made with short skirts of
1sncy tweed checked with blush gray,
which allow a view now and then of suede
colored CATERS. The waistcoats are belted
with leather beneath forest-green coats,
and the costume is completed with green
Iyrolean hat.
Riding ha bits should never be made
with bouffant sleeves; indeed, no first
class tailor would think of making them,
ana now only an inferior seamstress or a
thlrd-rate Matchmaker would cut SUCH
sleeves. But, of course, we do occasionally
see absurdities.
Speaking of shirt waists reminds me
that stocks may Ee made of the same ma
terlal as the waist, cor of white cheviot
with black satin tie or of the regulation
black satin stocks and tie under tiny
linen or cheviot turned-over edge. A de-
clded novelty is the stock of heavily
corded white silk, with tie of black satin
crossing high in a point at the back and
narrowing to the usual width in the bow"
Collars and cuffs are made in a dozen diff
ferent styles by the smartest shirtmakers,
so no one fashion can be said to be "the
thing"
Chic results are being produced by the
with great success to ruchings. plastrons
and black wells. On black backgrounds
are used white and yellow beading and on
white appear black ones. Tulle wells are
IN great demand, those OF white or creamy
white being most becoming 10 freshen
young faces or to those who still retain
youthful coloring, but persons who rouge
are candidly advised to avoid them, as l
have observed they have faculty of
drawing attention to such artificial
touches in an oddly emphatic way.
In New York tie swellest calling gowns
have short basque bodices of velvet. They
are seen in browns, grays, few shades of
blue and green, etc.; but for elaborate
affairs white velvet is seen most artistic
ally embroidered in gold or silver and
jewels. One can imagine the delightful
results, but such styles are only of interest
TO those who have their own carriages;
for others who dress well recommend the
beautiful face cloths, in exquisite light
shades. But perhaps one of the best pur-
beautiful new poplins, but no second-rate
woman must touch either of these fabrics.
They require the hand of an artist. Use
always cheaper goods for the cheap dress
maker to experiment with.
Amy number of fashionable girls are
having made skirts of white piQue
with which will be round bodices of pique,
which can be had in the most delicate of
shades of blue, rose pink and buff. They
usually are worn with wide sash of black
or white satin ribbon. Some prefer alpaca
skirts instead of pique, but the latter have
this advantage: they return in perfect con-
dition after being washed, and only too
frequently the alpaca ones are not sent
home in such good shape after passing
through the cleaners hands. The success
ful summer girl is not, of necessity, the
one who has a dozen trunks full of Paris
CONNECTIONS. Her well-groomed sister, with
an abundance of dainty, fresh and pretty
trocks, with becoming and suitable hats,
Will be just as fetching and attractive. Re-
member one thing: be always sweet and
fresh looking, never don a rumpled or a
slightly soiled gown, stay in your room all
day rather than look like a trump, an d
be sure, even for your bedroom, to have
pretty dressing gowns. for If you become
accustomed to surrounding yourself with
lovely things the effect will be extremely
beneficial.
The new opera-glasses fold perfectly fiat
into fat leather pocket, the size of card
case.
An appropriate gift for a bicycle enthu-
siast consists OF "a bicycle bag" 1t has
straps to iasten to the handle-bar of the
machine, and contains a watch, looking
glass, card case and a handkerchief
pocket. There is also room for the little
tools required for tire-repairing. Every
thing is so compact that the so-called bag
is small affair.
Bicycle gloves made of white doeskin,
with tan or white leather palms, are much
liked, and can be had zen mousauetaire" to
go over the cuff, or with a patent-button
fastening, and this reminds me that in
Europe pearl stud buttons have been very
successfully adapted to gloves and are
very stylish and especially pretty on
white gloves, and are said to be great ad-
vance over buttons, as they do not tear the
buttonholes.
Open work stockings having a Crepon-