The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-02-02
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.


ing 10 Darwin's theory. the connecting link
has always been a hideous creation, ugly
and nightmarish 10 behold. and its only
object in life seemed TO be 10 turn into the
next higher species as quick as possible.
and get itself of the earth for ever. Let
US hope that such is the mission OF some Of
the developing fashions. There is the
missing link sleeve for instance. which
looks like a small sleeve just shedding
its she'll For one thing. such a sleeve is
not honest. It shows that the designer
really wanted to make a small sleeve. and
not having the courage OF his convictions
he tried to hide IL with a sham. This style
looks something like the familiar angel
sleeve"
Then there is the freeze OUT style
which shrinks from removing the pun all
at once. but keeps crowding 1t down far
Their and farther until perhaps
by good luck it will fall off
altogether Such a sleeve is prettiest at
the earliest stage when the puff is only a
couple Of inches below the shoulder This
reveals the outline OF the arm where it is
most beautiful-that is. If there is any
beauty about it, One Of the prettiest styles
for a summer dress has a plain yoke reach
ing two inches below the shoulder points
and fitting perfectly smooth over the up
per arm. The puff is gathered on with
small heading and hangs very fun around
the elbow. The lower part of the bodice
Is gathered on in a line with the sleeve
puffs. giving the dress a decolette effect.
japanese silk makes up pretty this way.
Another sleeve is plain for four inches,
the arm with fiounce falling over the
large bishop puff beneath. The
bishop pun reaches to the wrist where
there is another narrow puff just large
enough TO pass over the hand. This sleeve
belonged to a dress that had a trimmed
skirt which, by the way, is another spe-
cies in the embryonic stage.
Whether they will succeed or not II is
hard to say. but the costumers will make
strenuous efforts to introduce trimming
on the new skirts. A few Partisan skirts
have gore panels with trimming running
up and down besides them. This is an
advantage in remodeling an old dress
Two skirts that harmonic may be put to-
gether by this means. There is no end
to the variety of passamenterie and jew
elled trimming that can be had to give
the refurbished gown an appearance of
newness Speaking of trimming. one can
buy set pieces of IL for Jokes to old waists
for about $500 which give a very dressy
effect Go to the trimming sales and
see what you can get in the way of fes-
toons of jet or jewels and applique pieces
when you are wondering what to do with
out.
A remnant which one buys for three or
four dollars may be made up very cheaply
with the trimmings 1 have been talking
about, and in this way one gets a pref
" spring dress at very little cost-eSpec-
tally since haircloth is no longer an essen
tial. The new lining that is stiff but very
light is much better than haircloth and
much cheaper too. A skirt nowadays
need not be more than four or five yards
wide. II is lined with cheverette, bound
with velveteen, and finished with a rib
bon ruffie around the inside. Some of the
evening skirts have velvet trimming. A
Dresden silk gown with a train had an
immense anonymous blue velvet bow Just
below the right knee. There were three
or four ostrich tips standing out and up
against the skirt. The bodice had large
blue velvet sleeve puffs with ostrich
feathers and blue velvet bows on the
shoulders and at the waist.
Evening waists are made of Dresden
or other silks and figured or dotted chif-
fons Plain chiffon is not worn. Pale
blue figured chiffon makes a pretty waist
TO wear with black silk or satin skirt
Those jeweled belts that fasten rather
loosely about the waist are a great addi-
ton to such an evening toilet. The cut
silver belts which many of us received
for Xmas presents win serve very we'll
for folks that cannot afford jewelled CIR
dies.
Not all of US can wear whole chiffon
waists either, more's the PITY We must
be content with a yoke or front or
bertha of the slimsy, adorable stuff. This
brings us to the subject of collarettes and
fichus.
Inc new cOlldretIeS are Split IN 'front.'
and perhaps on the shoulders too, which
explains why 1t is possible to buy black
neck trimming with white lace applique
yoke and black chiffon bertha for $3.50.
Another exquisite neck piece is a COM
bination of green chiffon and white lace
There is a stock of green chiffon with
three little lace pansies peeping over the
top on each side of the chin. To the
stock is sewed a white lace yoke about
three inches long. beneath which is a
double bertha of ACCORDION pleated green
chiffon with white valeneiennes edge
Its price, ready made, is $3.50, but an in
genious woman ought to make one for
herself at a cost of 50 at most. This is
the style that is beginning to go out
though it is still very much worn. The
new ones that are split in front have
V-shaped opening with the point at the
top A stock with yoke of ribbon and
insertion with lace gathered around it
makes a pretty neck trimming that is
cheap but not especially new.
One variation that can be used to adj
vantage is to make the stock pointed in
front. pretty coHarette with such a
stock of gold colored ribbon had a full
ruching of white ribbon standing an inch
above it around the face.
A suitable collarette for second mourn
ing has a yoke of black chiffon with white
lace applique trimming and a double row
of chiffon with satin edge.
A little later in the season we shall
see embroidery collars out in full force
Many of them have cuffs to match. Most
of them have collar bands of insertion
but a few turn in over the band of the
BILE. This will be a comfortable sum-
mer fashion and it is to be hoped ii will
be popular. A collar like this was made
of white pique with bands of insertion
radiating from the neck, and edged with
three-inch embroidery. The cuffs to match
turn back and are also edged with en-
broidery making them nearly four inches
wide.
Cuffs are the correct thing now. The
Marie Antoinette sleeve that is shorter
on the inside seam than it is on the out
side, has a cuff that flares and is about
four inches wide. A band of trimming
or a puffed piece around the hand is also
admissible.
A new thing in the collar line is made
of black satin. 1t is stock with a small
tie attached that appears to come from
the back of the stock and tie in the small
butterfly bow in front. 1t has a white
satin cording at the top edge so that there
is no necessity for a linen collar, though
one can be worn with it If desired 1t can
be bought for IS cents, but made much
cheaper.
In gloves one of the prettiest evening
shades is a red that Is almost crimson.
Street gloves are not so heavily stitched
as formerly and the stitching matches
the glove. A new white glove has a white
stitching for its middle line with a black
chain stitch all around it, The new gloves