davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
SPONGES.
with Demand Exceeding Supply, Pricea
Have been for Years Advancing.

One effect Of the war in Cuba has been to d.
minish the export of Cuban sponges by fully
one-half. The Cuban sponge fishermen get q
license to fish in Cuban waters only upon con-
dition that they shall serve In the navy II re-
CURED; and so many have been called upon for
materially reduced.
Cuba furnishes less than q third of the sponges
used In this country, but the ourtailment Of
that supply helps TO put up prices that have
been advancing for years. The supply Of
sponges comes from Florida, Cuba, Nassau.
Mexico, and the Mediterranean. Ordinarily
about two-thirds of the supply, in value, comes
from American waters. The demand FOR
spOnges has increased naturally, while tho
worlds supply has not kept pace with II. 1t has
within recent years actually diminished. OWN:
to careless methods of fishing and TO everlasting
to supply the increased demand.
The sponge IL OF slow growth; It takes two
or three years for II To attain commercial size.
In all countries in whose waters sponges grow
there are laws against the pulling of littIs
sponges until they have reached a certain
growth. Just as there hre laws against tho taking
OF Holsters and OF some fishes under specified
sizes. These laws have heen 10 n greater or
less extent ignored. In some waters spongcI
have been fshcd for with rakes and nets Thl-
method has been prohibited In Nassau, IL wat
found not operative In Florida waters, on ao-
count OF the nature Of the bottom.
With the supply not equal To the increasing
demand. prices have steadily advanced. ono
kind Of sponge that sold here less than twenty
years ago At 40 cents a pound now sells at Sn.ID
a pound. The advance in other sponges has not
been proportlonntelY 80 great, but IL has been
large, and the tendency of prices Is still upward.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

and a few mushrooms. On each skewer put
three pieces of lobster and two mushrooms. al
tornatinR them. Place the skewers on q brotler
over "A clear. hot fire and broil eight min
utes; turning, them frequently. Meanwhlle
broil thin slices OF bacon and toast bread
them on a hot platter. When the lobster 10
cooked place each skewer on q piece OF toast,
spread maitre d'h6tel sauce over the lobster and
mushrooms and put the broiled bacon around
the toast. This should be served very hot. 10
make the sauce. rub two tablespoonfuls of but
the same amount of pepper. and one table
spoonful of finely chopped parsley. Stir In
gradually the Juice from half OF a large lemon,
This sauce may be mixed and kept in q cool
place until needed.
To make curry OF lobster, cut into inch pieces
saucepan three tablespoonfuls OF butter and
one onion sliced thin. Put the saucepan over
the fire and stir until the butter is melted and
the onion Drowned; then stir In two tablespoon
fuls of flour and a aSssertspoonful OF curry
powder. When thoroughly blended gradually
add a scant pint of stock. salt and cayenne
pepper to taste. Strain the sauce over the cut
lobster. return to the fire. and let 1t simmer five
minutes. Turn on pieces OF toast and serve.
a delicious sauce may be made OF lobster for
serving with boiled fish or fowls. Rub together
two tablespoonful of butter with two of -four,
and cook for FIVE minutes. stirSing all the while.
Draw VI to one side OF the fire and stir In gradually
one cup of cold milk and one cup of the water in
which the fish was boiled; add more salt and
pepper II needed. Cut into fine pieces the meat
of n small lobster and add to the sauce and serve.
In boiling fish or fowls put into the water half
a dozen cloves, two bay leaves, an onion, n few
whole peppers. and salt. These flavor the fish.
A favorlte salad is made of fresh boiled
lobster and crisp lettuce leaves. with mayon-
naiSe dressing,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
US MANIFESTATIONS.

Fashion seeks to extend her power and rule
the expression of our emotions as well as our
taste in dress. We are informed that real old
fashioned audible laughter is no longer consid-
cred good form. 1t is too boisterous for this
aesthetic age, but what Is worse it causes
wrinkles to appear q little earlier than they
otherwise would. So. IL we would be quite up
to date we must demonstrate our joy in sweet,
brilliant, but lanRuid smiles and leave tho
merry laughter to the uncultured sideof society.
How women should walk. and how they do
walk. ~ is a subject which is continually coming
up for discussion, and It has been decided re-
Gently by q Partisan journalthat French women
deserve the prize for queenly grace of carriage.
The German woman steps heavily; most women
in other countries travel "prancc." roll or
tramp about" as the case may be. but the
French woman walks In the only correct man
ner. Peasant women In France who carry bur-
dens on their heads are special types of grace in
walking. and this exercise, using a book or .
pillow. is specially recommended as a remedy
for an ungraceful walk. Some women contend
that their special gait is natural like the color OF
their eyes and cannot be changed. but that il
entirely a misconception of their own ability to
, tn thins t that e eers9has e eRe dissa1ce Is tnt tEe seem ona
and only, point to be gained by walking. lt
others, any effort Which could add q little srac,
and dignity to their method OF walking would
not DO considered TOO muCn trouble. Beauty
of face and figure Is often almost entirely lost
in an ugly walk.
Fashionable women In London are agitatinG
q new league. which has the worthy motive OF
preventing extravaganza in dress. and even
limiting the number of dresses a woman shall
buy in one year., providing. OF course, she be-
comes a member. So many women dress beyond
their means to keep pace with their moro ia
vored associates that this "anti-dress league
Is proposed as a sort Of mantle of charity to
cover a small dress llowance With fashionable
dress which shall govern the richer as well as the
poorer members of society. The success OF this
enterprise is yet to be seen. but the amusing side
OF II ia that the women who are the most en-
thusiastic workers in the cause keep very clear
OF 1t themselves.
Heavy hats are condemned by the doctors e.
a serious means of producing headaches,
wrinkled foreheads. and gray hair; but the
seasons millinery apparently ignores anU of
these good reasons for the regulation of size
and weight in headgear. and hats arc larger and
more heavily trimmed than ever. "Picture-har
headache" Is a fashionable complaint just at
present
said to be q growing evil among women whose
vanity oversteps the bounds of good sense. but
II they persist in its use blindness is pretty sure
to be the result.
Bicycle dress has brought about a reformation
are worn short enough to clear the ground by
four or hve inches. For women VINO cannot
hold up their skirts neatly and at the same time
efectuallyt this fashion is a blessing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

their dainty Dresden flowers, and dressy gowns
are very, satisfactory made OF this material. with
a little lace and ribbon for "a finish, and 1t an
chine, crepon, and fancy silks are also used for
the little gowns, but with dimity lawn, white
muslin, challie, pique, and wool materials = child
can have a very pretty summer outfit without
any of the more expensive dresses. White mus
lin made over a silk underdress and trimmed
little dress.
Checked wool materials are extremely popu-
lar this season, and plain blue and brown serge
Is as much used as ever. Vests OF ecru b~atiste.
Win narrow Insertions OF embroidery set in
crosswise or. up and down. and wide collars of
the linen edged with hatiste embroidery sewn
on nat make a stylish finish for either blue or
teiles and collar band give them the needed
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

gowns. AT one fashionable wedding the
bridesmaids wore white satin skirts, per-
fectly plain, full white chiffon waists with
. lace-trimmed fchuS turquoise blue satin
ribbon sashes. and large black hats trimmed with
the blue ribb2n ami wtite feathers. If colored
gowns are preferred satin is the most desirable
material just the same. Silver spangled net 10
very effective over the waist of a white satin
dress, with pink velvet collar and belt, and a
black hat with pink trimmings. White glacs
silks Powered In pink are another fancy for tt Q
bridesmaids' gowns. and white chiffon Is used
for tho trimming. These are very pretty with
tho largo white hats adorned with pink roses.
Rough straw hats with wide brims. narrowing
toward the back in some of the pretty light
satin braids, arc the proper shape. and the
flowers are arranged at the back where the brim
turns up Feathers and ribbon or colored tulle
complete the decoration.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

~ h'''hr are, AIhu t. % the grOwn-up
gowns, gradually losing their fulness. Ono
model illustrated shows n vest and revers of
cCru battste with embroidered fTills around the
edge. The waist is plain in Tho back and the fIII
'front.' Is turned back In rcyers. trimmed with
three FANCY buttons, Blue and green plaid ribbon
forms the collar band. Another model has the
full gored skirt trimmed ON Vie seams with
lawn applique embroidery: "a full waist with a
a Cnene ribbon collar and walstband. A pretty
little coat for n small girl Is made Of fAwn-COi-
ored Amazon cloth with two Capes. The upper
one Is Of white silk covered with cream lace. A
navy blue serge gown has n detachable vest
reyers, sailor collar and Guns OF pale blue linen
striped With white insertion, and the belt u %
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
THIS YEARS LINGERIE.
Dainty Fineness aud Exquisite Finish the
Distinguishing Characteristics.

Each succeeding season adds variety and ex-
travagance to the department of fashionable
lingerie. and all the novelties In garments for
negliR6 use, as well as the underwear, are dis
tinguished for their dainty hneness and ex-
quisite finish. Handmade underwear Of fine
nainsook, extensively but not deliberately
trimmed with embroidery and lace. is most de-
sired by women Of refined taste and unlimited
incomes; but the average woman cannot In.
dulge her taste for this sort OF elegance, even II
she possesses II, and the machine-made gar
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
Always Bright, Always
Changing, and Always
Interesting.
THE WEDDING TRoUSSEAU,
Especially Worthy of Considera-
ton at This Season Of
the Year.

Ivory satin the Favorite Material for Wed
disc Gowu.-Ths Attire OF Bridesmaid.
Neat Things In Trnveiing Gowns
Waists and Other Dainty Articles That
Complete the bride. Outnt-The New
E~eits-Fashions for ChiIdren-A Chapter
on Underwear - Tho Latest Novelties
The season Of balls and parties has come to q
temporary standstlll. and weddings are tho
leading variety of fashionable entertainment
Just at present, but the dance OF dress goes on
forever with unceas!ng vigor. whatever may
be the prevailing order OF ~festivity; and as usual
II becomes moro brilliant as summer draws
near TO frame the ball room in shimmerinE
green and gorgeous flowers. All the varying
grades Of materials and designs, from the most
elaborate and expensive to the plainest and
cheapest, hobnob together, without regard to
precedence. In this continuous dance Of fashion
which fades and brightens in such rapidly
shifting scenes. ana IL never ceases TO be at
~tractive even TO the most modern new woman.
Ivory duohesse satin ia the favorite material
for wedding gowns, and white chiffon. Brus-
sells, Flanders, and Honiton lace are used for
trimming, but these gowns are distinguished
this season chiefly for their simplicity. and
many Of them are made without any decoration
whatever. White chiffon Is much employed for
shirred Jokes and q finish for the neck and
sleeves. and tulle wells and orange blossoms are
the correct thing. One Of the elaborate excep-
lions to the simple gowns is made Of white
satin yelled with tulle. which has two fiounces
of Brussels point de Eazo lace headed with
small ruohings of tulle. The waist is d apei
with this handsome lace, which falls in epau-
lottes over the tulle sleeves. rufled at the
cop and wrinkled closely over the satin the en-
tire length Of the arm. White satin gowns with
~ A. M L. - l.l II
lace and insertion. are the most fashionable cos
tunes for the bridesmaids. and the touch OF
color is given In the collar band and wide belt
Of either green. turquoise. blue, or yellow velvet,
and the Same color on the hats. which may be
black or white. Striped white MORE, and
white bengaline with satin spots, which is
less expensive, are both used for these
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
FRILLS OF

In dress goods there is a new poplin. with al
ternate thick and transparent ribs, which make
a charming effect. And the new alpacas, woven
with coarse twills and covered with chino de-
signs, look almost as elegant as silk.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
HINTS FOR THE household,

The chamois gloves in white and light shades
which are worn by bicyclists may be washed in
the Glowing manner: Make a lather with Cas-
tile soap and warm water, using a spoonful OF
ammonia to each quart. When the water 10
tepid put the gloves In 1t and let them soak for
n quarter OF an hour. then press them with tho
hands. but do not wiring them. Rinse In fresh
cold water with n little m onia added. Press
the gloves In a towel. Dry them In the open air
after previously blowing to puff them out
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

more than n ni0htgown and quite as comfort
able is the matinee gown. illustrated. IL Is made
Of fine white lawn with a fitted sacGue bodice.
deep cape, and wide flounces on the skirt,
trimmed generously with lace insertion, edging,
and blue ribbon bows.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Fine old lace which is not too soiled may be
cleaned by laying it on a paper thickly sprinkled
with -four and magnesia. Cover with another
a few days and then shake the flour from the
lace. DO not fold fine lace; lay It on strips OF
blue or similar paper and roll the lace and paper
together.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

ments have to satisfy her. and they are not
lacking in daintiness either. They are quite as
ethereal and fascinating as the hand-sewn
pieces, since they are made of the same fine
lawns, null and silk and trimmed with the
same fine ValencieLnes, Maltese. and Cluny
lace, Point de Paris lace is much used, and
torchon is always in order; only II must be very
fine TO be fashionable this season.
Drawers are made so short and full that they
might be more appropriately called twin shirts.
One novel design shows a deep Irlll OF alternate
rows of lace and embroidered insertion and
edging made TO form . square on the outside.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Shot silks. both lowered and plain. are very
popular this season. and the ~prettiest varieties
have three colors woven together. They come
in light and dark shades, with beautiful but sub
dued effects, and make lovely waists.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Remember that wine increases the taste OF
salt. For this reason, where wine is used for
favoring. very little salt should be put in until
after the wine has been used, when more may
be added If necessary.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

other serge dress has q simple trimming of vel
vet straps in u darker shade, ornamented with
small buttons. Norfolk jacket waists are very
much liked for young girls. and bands of em-
brnidery or colored silk set in betweenthe plaits
in front, are o very pretty addition.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

favorite garment, since it combines a corset
cover and under. petticoat in one. One pretty
design has medal ions of lace set in to form q
yoke trimming. In corset covers, the zouave.
prettily trimmed with Nalenciennes lace. is
about the most satisfactory shape. particu-
larly for those who wish to avoid any extra
thickness around d." waist. Another style is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

The wedding trousseau appeals to the interest
OF every woman In more or less degree. as It
supplies her with ideas for immediate use, and
the numerous gowns, which are the most I'm
portant item, furnish an endless list OF models.
A pretty modern idea carried out by some brides
Is TO have their favorite color reign supreme
throughout the entire trousseau. All the gowns
which are not black or white are in some shade
Of this pet color, or 1t is usol in the trimming.
II blue is the choice the color scheme brings
out charming results, for between the dark and
light shades there are the pretty tints OF azure,
turquoise, sapphire, and violet. Thus, one gown
OF white canvas is lined with turquoise blue
silk, and has a vest OF the same blue velvet
prettily embroidered and opening over an in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03
FASHIONS FoR CHILDREN.
No End OF Pretty Designs a.a Materials
Tor Mnthers 20 choose From.

ior Mothers 90 Choose Frcun.
New and original ideas In children's clothes
are not a marked feature of the fashions this
season, but there are no end Of pretty designs
an | materials from which TO choose, and moth.
ers have only IN glance at their own youthful
photographs to be assured of the great improve
ment which Dame Fashion has made In chill
dren's dress during the last twenty-five years.
A child's figure Ia considered In these days,
and. whether she Is angular or over stout, her
gown a. mnde to disguise rather than accentuato
her defects. TX rts are cut either In circular
form, fitting closely around the hips with some
fulness at the beck, or made In straight
breadths shlrred In at tho waist and widely
hemmed at the bottom. The circular skirt re-
qulres q lining, but, ike the full one. 1t Is de-
d.
SS&
~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Tulle is such an inexpensive hat trimming and
is worn SO much by the masses that it has lost
fame with the upper ten; and wide gauze rib
bons, with shadowy effects of color, and very
expensive. are to be its successor.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

void of trimming. Full baby waists gathered
into a belt, with short pulled sleeves and frills
of embroidery on the shoulders, are the usual
style for Rulmpe dresses of lawn. dimity, and
gingham. Blouse waists are as popular as
ever. and then there are all sorts of little coats
with wide collars. These are more especially
for wool and pique dresses.
Sailor dresses for small girls are very popular.
and they are made of serge. linen, and piQue.
in all the pretty light colors. either striped or
plain. White plque with a pale blue stripe Is
very pretty. with the wide collar Of plain blue
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

be added If necessary.
In making cream or lemon pies, where the
crust requires to be baked before the filling Is
put In, an excellent plan is to lay over the paste
q piece Of strong brown tissue paper. ~pleating II
to fl the pie plate and coming above the, edge.
FIJI this with Hour or meal and bake until the
crust Is done, Then the paper and contents
may he lifted out. II flour is used it can 10
utilized afterward for thickening sauces and
GRAVES.
Blankets washed In the following way are soft
and light as new Dissolve one tablespoonful ~
pulyeri2ed Dorax and one pint OF soft soap; make
a strong suds in cold water; put In the blankets
and lot them remain all night. In the morning
work them up and down with the hands and
put them into another tub OF cold water; rinse
them through three waters and hang them up
without wrlnging, When they have hung II little
while turn them half round. Choose II sunny
day with some breeze.
A well known medical authority says in n re-
cent work that cheese should be eaten at least
once a GHy; oh Ut i the most %yaluG6l" animal
times as nutritiouss as the same money value Of
ordinary meat
To prevent pie Juice from running out In the
oven make a little opening In the upper crust
and insert a straw or little roll Of white paper
perpendicularly, The steam win escape through
IL as through "a chimney ana all the juice Will
be retained In the pie
Gambling eggs IL the one intallible way to test
them. This is done in a dark room with u
candle. gas. or electric tight. When the egg Is
held close To the light II fresh il will appear u
pinkish yellow, and " otherwise II Will be dOtted
with Opaque spots or be entirely dark.
When II Is not convenient to broil fish over an
open Ere It may be nicely broiled in a very hot
oven. Prepare the fish as for the usual method
and lay IL with the skin down on II piece ~
oiled phpes In a roasting pan. Cook on the mp
per CRATE NJ the oven until brOwned, nr,t rub
binR IL with butter aud busting with u little Hour.
II an article that has become rusty Is soaked in
Kerosene oil for some time the rust Will become
lOosened and Come OF very readily.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Chameleon and china silk psrasols. without
any decoration. are the most useful styles in all
the wondrous display OF berutiied lace. chiffon,
and flower trimmed novelties. and they are
equally suitable to carry with a tailor gown or
a thin muslin. A now shape in parasols Is
called the pago6a. The ribs turn up at the ends
outside. and the whole is made very effective
by full chiffon Innings OF n contrasting color. A
hinge chiffon rOsette encircles the handle. so
that when the parasol is closed 1t resembles an
immense bouquet. The newest sticks are very
slender, mounted with Dresden china and paint
ed to correspond with the changeable silks.
White Is to be very much worn this season,
and race and yachting gowns are made Of white
alpaca and serge. Short white capes of silk lace
or chiffon will be a desirable possession at the
fashionable summer resorts, and the only per-
MISSILE black cape is deliberately trimmed with
white.
Flowered liberty silks and satins are made up
into blouse waists for wear with odd skirts, and
they are specially for evening
dresses with lace or chiffon bodices.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Double or single rufnes Of lace or embroidery,
marked by an inch-wide insertion through
which ribbon Is run, is a very usual mode OF
trimming. II ia positively necessary that this
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

The use of belladonna to beautffy the eyes IL
said to be a growing evil among women whose
vanity oversteps the bounds OF good sense. but
to be the result.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

shaped like the Zouave in the back, and has
pointed ends In front which tie at the bust like
q nchu. Other corset covers are made after the
plan Of baby waists, except that The iulness is
laid In groups OF. three tucks instead OF gath
cred. 1t extends below the waist line and has a
belt stitched on the inside. Narrow lace and
beading finish the square o" round neck.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

Bicycle dress has brought about n reformation
for some women in skirts for rainy days. They
are worn short enough to clear The ground by
four or Ave inches. For women. VINO cannot
hold mp their skirts neatly and at the same time
effectually this fashion is q blessing.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1896-05-03

II an article that has become rusty Is soaked in
Kerosene oil for some time the rust Will become
loosened and oom OF very readily.