Birmingham state herald., 1896-09-13
NEWPORT, OLD AND NEW Mystical ard Romantic Back # ground of the Past. BRIGHT PICTURE OF TODAY Mrs. A C. Lowrey Writes in Charming h.
 teresting Strain of the Beautiful City
 $ by the Sea.

tHdl lie HdS reached the most famous summer resort upon the western conti- nent. Instead of the famed Newport cottages those palatial structures made beautiful with all that wealth and taste can devise, his eye rests upon old and weather-worn buildings, which are all that remain to tell the history of spot where once "a worldwide commerce found it's home.''
 The oldest wharf in the city is Long wharf, north of which light rowboats pass. today over submerged capstones, which, could they speak, would tell us many a tale of departed commerce. and if we could have vision of other days we should see many a great ship riding at anchor, bringing to this port the rich products of far off lands. Upon the southern side of the Long wharf of the present day is a row of boat builders shops, and the historian tells us that the many intricate byways among them re- call the days when vessels of doubtful anteeedents lay at anchor in the outer harbor. Many wild story of smugglers and dark browed pirates hang about these old wharves. There are smaller .wharves to the southward, where are 10 be seen the old warehouses of bygone days; and it is said that one of these was used as a slave pen many years ago, and through the iron bars looked despairlngly the dark faces of those for whom liberty had ceased.
 Today the harbor is filled with light craft and the beautiful pleasure y3cntS of the money kings of America; and the Newport of this day, though beautiIui, is not the great commerclal center that its founders dreamed 1t would become. The steamboats from Providence pfhg each day to these old wharves eroWds or gay excursionists and line or electric cars and beach wagons wait to hll With messengers and are off for Eastons beach or for a drive to the many Interesting places in which the city abounds:
 As we drive through the beautlfui ave nues past some of the most magnificent and costly summer residences In the world we think of the days of long ago, and have feeting vision of lovely 1ofms That have long since passed away the daughter of Abraham Redwood, or whom it was said that when she walked the streets of the town even the rough sail ors involuntarily raised their mats Ill homage: the beautiful Miss Cnampiin, whom Washington selected for ms part ner at ball given in honor of ms Vlsit pTo the Allies. and the gallant French offi- cers taking the instruments rom the shands of the musicians and themseiVes furnishing the music for the distinguish ed couple as they stepped through the stately minuet; the two Misses 1un.es' of noble aspect and spiritual race, anu most lovely of all that galaxy or beauties, Hhe Quaker vestal, Polly Lawton. put ,these beautiful phantoms of the ola coio- nial days vanish, and we awaken 10 the realities of tine Newport Of the nlneteelsn 1T. II !. century. and behold the beauties of the nresent time mounted On bicycles or drlv- ] ing blooded horses through the snauy l streets of the old town. ana we re'liAs that we are in place where weatn apu fashion hold sway during the suiiiiie'
 There are some changes in Newport duiing the past few years. Six or seven wears ago there were no street cars 10 pc ,aen. but the electrics are there m Iuil force now and that in spite of the deter 7nined onnosition of the exclusive sum- . 1nar residents The so-called common ipople can now ride in the electrlcs 10 Easton's beach. one of the hnest patn, it,g beaches on the Atlantic coast, ana .ihere enjoy the ocean preezes and ton,es ua n dip in the surf, returning to thelr homes s6n Providence at night, the better TOT q Ndav bv the great sea- There IS every ac- conomodation at this beach for eXcurslon- ssts, Shore dinners, for Whlcn hhone o,,e TsIand is so famous, are served ID the nest style. Comfortable carriages are ready to take the visitor for the ,iesls ueiisn sn. fnI ocean drive, stopping at dinerent noints of interest all at price within the reach of most peopier .,xa- ,,,a
 cnea,sinp of shore dinners remlnds Hie of an account which appeared Tn the Newnort column of the Providence Jour nal of clam bake enjoyed by the high society of Newport recently, ana Whlch was so amusing that quote IL here.
 "The old saying that fingers were maoe before forks is, so far as known, an uh- f1isnuted fact but ordinarily all well reg ,,lated households protest agalnst liie re turn to the old custom. Ine horueo oi necple who go to the snore resoIts anu tackle A clam bake with the perfect apaIl- don which is customary are, however, a,o longer looked upon with contempt ,,,han they take the delicious clam from a'is shell and. after dipping him into cup of drawn butter, dangie nm osel M their gaping mouths and quickly let nm dron, its This is Plebian style, bur It ,,,as never expected that refined society n.tired in silks would descend to such methods. and yet if one could only nave gazed in upon the score or weaitny ohes, 5alf of whom were ladies, at private hslxa at the Clam Bake club, he would have remarked that human nature VIII nron out in all mankind. There were no Enrlish table manners for the gathering followed the example set by the req man when he was found in possession or these
 The attractions of this great watering n,are this lovely "City by the Sea-, are .nanifold. The antiquarian will ma ms heart and imagination thrilled as ne looks upon the interesting relic Tn Aouro mark known IS the Old Stone mill. None have yet pierced the mystery of the cree tion of this quaint structure; many his, ,, torians suppose 1t to be a relic or the ola Vilxinrs and the mind is carried back through the mists of nine centuries, when the ship of fair-haired Northmen came onwards leaping from pillow to pillow to- wards these shores. and fierce eyes gleamed under shaggy brows at sight Of a strange, new land. Others have thought it a Martello tower of the years between Guanahani and Plymouth ROCK; but the very uncertainty which shrouds inc old ruin in mystery holds the imag- ination better than any certainty.
 A building which recalls colonial, days is the Redwood Library, founded by Abraham Redwood, in the days when books were rare luxury in America. Il is beautiful Doric structure, designed by Peter Harrison who was the assist ant architect of Blenheim House, the magnificent residence which Englano erected as a token of it's esteem for the Duke of Marlborough. Harrison was fol many years a resident of Newport. and was architect of the ancient state house from the balcony of which the election of the governor of Rhode Island and