The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1896-07-12
Muslin Gowns
With Rosebuds
and in Stripes

on her forehead. As a result of this dis
coyery and large supply of marvellous
frocks, she bids fair ere long to be consid-
cred almost if not quite beauty.
The touch of black in costumes contin-
ues in great vogue, as it does assuredly
give certain peculiar individual charm,
and the black Valenciennes lace, so warm
Iy advocated last year, is in great favor at
the present moment. One of the most
stunning toilets worn at a recent draw
ing-room by a matron had train of dull
black satin trimmed with black tulle and
black peoples. The black MORE bodice
was adorned with peoples. the berthe and
sleeves were of black tulle studded with
diamonds. The black n,oire pettlcoat was
draped with a great scarf of tulle with two
bows of the same and peoples. The veil,
gloves and pIumes all were black.
For those in half-mourning beige and
black is welcome novelty and great re-
lief after the other trying combinations of
gray and black. Beige has another advan-
tage, it is usually becoming to the COM
plexion. Linens and beige batistes with
collars, cuffs, corselets, belts, sashes,
plastrons and bretelles of black taffeta are
stylish for wear until after luncheon.
Sensible travelling dresses escape the
ground all the way round, but there is no
reason that they should be so short as to
make an ugly display of the feet. White
or light embroideries and silk trimming
should be carefully avoided on such gowns;
indeed it would be hard to improve on a
lightweight costume consisting of a skirt
and jacket and separate waist. A silk
shirt waist commends itself warmly to
most of US. Uncrushable silk is employed
in the manufacture of the best.
Golf is now the fashionable outdoor sport
East, but here tennis is better understood
and much liked, as the interest in the San
Rafael match proved. Extremely fetch
ing are many of the tennis dresses de-
signed for pretty girls this season. The
skirts of all of them reach the tops of the
boots, and they must not be too full, for
excessive wlath means that they will flop
around in an absurd and ungraceful man.
ner. Red pique, mohair and duck of the
brightest scarlet are much affected. The
jackets are short and the shirt waist al
ways of some soft fine fabric. usually or
candle or null. Wash materials are far
more used for such suits than serge or mo-
hair.
Even the girls VINO rank as champion
players and pay no attention to style look
well in their lightweight linen skirts and
loose blouses of white India silk, provided
the skirt hangs properly and suitable
belt unites skirt and blouse. Some play
ers like belts of ribbon. In such cases fig
ured ribbons are not worn, MORE taffeta
being the most fashionable.
l strongly recommend it, as all the most
harmonious and artistic shades are to be
had in this new weave. Girls, be sure to
purchase sufficient to pass twice around
your waist as once is not sufficient When
such ribbons become slightly creased they
must be discarded, but if carefully pressed
will make, when quite number have ac-
cumulated, a pretty ruffie for a petticoat
which needs to be done over, and this re-
minds me that alpaca continues to be the
favorite fabric for petticoats to be worn in
the country. They usually have one or
two rufles Of bright silk to relieve their
somber appearance
For white and light dresses the white
underskirts of finest cambria or oreandie
are more dainty than ever, revealing at
| times rows upon rows of lace. embroidery.
or the most exquisite of drawn work.
Many of the most admired are the handi-
work OF the fair wearers, and of course
two silk petticoats at least must accom-
pany her on her summer outing unless she
expects to spend the season "far from the
haunts of men,"
The great dressmakers of the world are
said all to be informing their fair clients
that the Grecian waist is to be the correct
style. The measurements of the Venus of
Milo, the Pallas and Diana are being care
fully studied, and so we are told that
better health among fashions devotees
will be the result. At the present day, in
this part of the world, absurd wasp like
waists are seldom seen. and men long ago
ceased to admire waists which indicated
that all the floating ribs had to be crowded
into an unnatural position.