Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-08-08
Nearly All the Official Families Gone
Now.
0MEFAMOUS DIAMONDS AND WEARERS
What Fashion Ordained in the WAY
Of Sleeves.
T n e L A T E vt NEW S

there is no KNOWN z what brand Of de-
lirium may be the outcome of another
| week Of heat such as the past. during
which Washington and old Sol were on
such particularly affectionate terms. The
week witnessed the departure Of those in
the cabinet circle. who have braved the
scorching heat here all summer. The Her.
berts " i'll have q jolly week before setting
sail for Europe. and will be repaid for their
| lorg stay In town. Miss Herbert will enjoy
| few gh,npses Of Newport gay life before
she goes aboard the big American liner. AS
she does not have the same need to hurry
buck as her father. 1t IL r o more than prob
| able that she will remain much longer
and cross the ocean when the great tide of
| travellers tur,, their faces homeward In the
autumn. Postmaster General and Mrs. Will
sen are starting with the idea Of giving
two months to the Journey.
OF the merits or dement's of Washington
as summer residence there Is no couple
better able to speak than Secretary AMI
Mrs. Carlisle. Generally they have nothing
but good words to say. but the past week
tried their fortitude considerably, and the
time seemed long until they could get
away. Secretary Carlisle says that his idea
of summer vacation for a public man is
to go where even the sound of the human
voice would be but seldom heard-deep into
| the wilderness. with creature comforts pos
shle. but no luxuries or frills to disturb
ores mind from peaceful rest. The aver
ege summer hotel, no matter where or
how desrably located. will not fill the bill
for him. for he is a soc!able being wants
to talk. and thereby defeats the very argu-
ment he uses In the necessity for rest.
After little stay at Gray Gables Mrs.
Carlisle win likely visit also at the home
Of the Misses Hamlin.
The death a few days ago in New York
of Mrs. Hicks-Lord recalls the winter that
n o{f yhA, hAv
ance at social events, notably at the White
House levees. always called forth so many
comments on her elaborate toilets, and es-
pecially for the number and magnifcence
or the gems with which she decked herself.
An evening is recalled when her passage
through the state parlors was almost i'm
possible because of the guests crowding
about to catch even feeting glimpse of
her fine lace. as we'll as diamonds. of which
80 much had been written. Probably the
value of her diamonds was overrated, but
certainly the number was not. A splendid
white satin or silk dress, which was the
worn by ler on this occasion. The skirt
was crossed in front by deep falls of ex-
quisite lace, and at intervals a diamond
shone in the heading. She wore all the
earrings and necklace, corsage ornaments
and bi acelets. and to cap the climax the
fan she carried had sparks Of light fash
ing from 1t with every movement On the
"HCir, HeT gorgeous azure was q reveal
ton to those who had not been accust omed
to see New York woman with liberal
tastes and purse array herself. AS most
of her social laurels were won as Mrs.
Hicks. she used that as well as the name
OF her last husband. after the death Of the
latter.
In despair of having people to talk about
the revolution in feminine attire is fire.
quent topic
1t looks as if big sleeves will have to go
All the models in the fashion papers and
especially in those latest from the French
capital. have very mild cases Of pulled
sleeves. while many of the taior-made eff
fects, particularly those intended for rid
ing. driving cycling or other out-of-door
sports. have come back to the old-tine
fashion which exactly follows the contour
of the arm. Tight as 1t looks. however,
and 1t does not seem to have an inch OF
waste material in Its formation. it never
can be like what it was before the glorious
freedom which big sleeves allowed came
to be eE Hyed. The tight sleeve of wretched
memory impeded the circulation and made
any free use of the arm or energetic move
ment OF the body well nigh impossible. It
made the hands look twice large and
the Whitest flesh under thin muslin as
sumed the unesthetic rosiness of a boiled
lobster. The tight sleeve was a nuisance
and yet 1t was endured for while. as were
trained street dresses, big bustles pull
backs and ether forms OF feminine adorn-
ment. The wheel has revolutionized the
ordinary system of women's attire since
sent two features of the new woman's de-
velopment, and it hardly seems possible
that any retrograde movement would go
with this generation. Scarcely any one
thinks OF riding a wheel now without be-
ing appropriately dressed for it, and SO let
1t be hoped that with the decadence of the
| exaggerated big sleeve there will be left a
common-sense medium size which will
drape the feminine arm In proportion to
the rest of the makeup.
The fall model for the sleeves of silk or
| worsted dresses fits the arm closely above
the elbow, either plainly or with wrinkled
folds. The upper part Is q short puff, gen.
orally very much caught up to the shoulder,
or the same short. bunchy effect Ia secured
through two or three tapping frills or lace
sewed round the arm hole or falling from
the shoulder trimming. 1t only takes a
very short examination of the models to
prove that II will not be necessary next fall
| to buy three or four yards extra for the
sleeves In the tabernacle outing cos
tunes the generally accepted style Ia that
Of three years ago in this country-enough
fuiiness at the top to make a stylishly
broad enect across the shoulders
A young lady who is just back from Paris
wore pretty light summer silk one day re-
| Gently. which emphasized the return to
slightly trained skirt and small sleeves
| Ing fnllness over the shoulders, but the
sleeve fitted snugiy. A deep fall Of the lace
Tell over the wrist. The skirt fitted smooth
~ around the hips. had no extra fullness
t.
| ~ rounded train at the back
Mrs. Calvin 8. Brice needed only a few
days rest at Beauiieu, her Newport estab-
! hehment before resuming the elegant style
OF hospitality for which the Brices are now
famous. Senator and Mrs. Brice enjoy the
pleasures and gayeties OF life much more
than the average wealthy folks Their
home. with Its retinue Of secretaries and
servants. is as web managed as a great
hotel. but mainly because Of the executive
ability Mrs. Brice displays in It's superin-
tendence Fresh now from the attractions
OF London season and a presentation at
court. the family has few laurels worth the
winning In the social line. Mrs Brice on
gala occasions wears many and superb d.a-
monds. Her diamond tiaras. for she has
several OF them. would attract attention
anywhere. 1t Is just possible, however.
that the quantity Of fine gems she wears
now does not begin to give her the pleasure
she experienced in the unexpected possess
sion OF Ler first diamond brooch. 1t Is told
| by friend that years ago. when Mr.. Brice
Was a young lawyer. with a small practice.
and that, little as 1t was. only kept I'D by
| the most strenuous exertions, that he was
asked one day by some capitalists who had
| a scheme on hand for which the outlook
was extremely dubious to give them some
| advice how to proceed. The pressure for
Mr.. Brices services was not such but that
tfereauest gave him considerable surprise