New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-08-02

can wcar) Is now rcegatcd to a back place. 1t ap.
| pears. to be sure under walking gowns and yacht
Ing suits and is In good taste with tailor made
costume OF heavy linen, but It is OF place with
| dimities and the like.
| Under n spotted white muslin. built a trans
parency" Of blue silk the suitable upon is one OF
! white lawn and lace. with the hounce arranged
over second louncc-whch may be buttoned to
the skrt-of blue silk A frock Of lowered muslin
| lined with pink naturally suggests fluffy skirt OF
pink lawn. Stockings and often shoes match petit
| coat and gown.
The travelling gown Of the French mondaine is
| somewhat more elaborate than that preferred by
| the American and English woman-more elaborate
and more original for she does not cling to- indeed
| rarely uses. the jacket suit for journey. Some
4, so-called travelling gowns shown this week were
| referred to by the drcssmakers as their earliest
autumn models An effective suit is built Of a
| roughly wool In small black and white
checks About the skirt are three deep tucks with
an edge Of white silk peeping below each tuck. The
stun forming the bodice Is stretched over fitted
| lining, and shows only under arm seams II does
not blouse In the least. but there are few
Fuckers where It disappears under the high Direc-
toire belt OF plaid silk. About the throat is an odd
collar of white silk, circular and finely plated
The lower and larger part OF the collar rests on the
gown, the upper part making frill about the
throat held by scarf choker Of plaid silk tying In
a bow behind
Some Princess effects appear again In these early
autumn models. gown Of blue wool has a trim
ming OF appliqued yellow lace. and blue velvet
figures about the bottom. There Is an under blouse
effect OF a fancy blue. gold and white silk. making
the yoke and long. close. wrinked sleeves. over
this the skirt breadths extend In the form OF long
scarfs that cross surpce fashion, and form puns
over the top Of the sleeves The silk waist has a
high choker that turns In severe circular
wings opened trife front and back. The turn
over part of the choker is faced with velvet with
a tiny lace edge. The cuffs roll over and are faced
to match the choker.
The new stufrs for the autumn include great
many plain woods. and navy blue Will remain a
popular color. # Is probable that French women
will adopt 1t in place Of the eternal black Tor street
forms of the heavy mohair The elaborate silks
not ready yet. even In the wholesaie places
quiet designs Combinations Of silk and wool will
be feature of the autumn models.
hardly look for any marked deviations from tho
accepted mode during the coming season, Sk n
take the form of fiat garniture; In the wholesale
bro:dered .ilk figures TO be appiqued to wool gowns
They novel ana pretty enough to become popu-
lar.
But it is really too early yet to say much about
autumn winter gowns, and, although Paris Is
full Of visitors whose chief employment seems 10
be shopping. neither the shops nor private tou,
turieres and milliners have much OF value TO show
as pson muGR b ro TO 5he of the
ing places require fresh summer oilettes In August
ana another relay IN ScpteINp'T !oi 'H'
country visits. The winter social season begins
later than in New York. and the early so-called
winter models secured by the foreign buyers In
late July early August arc not always accepted
by the Parisienne VINO does not think OF winter
frocks until October November
So much ecru linen or lawn has been worn that
il IS be feared our mondaines at Trouville. DepLe
Dnard will know not this stuff month hence.
A week ago d the last of the garden parties that
closed the Paris season, il was conspicuous, but
even then becoming trcsome. The couturieres here
say that their American clients demand their win
tor gowns IN July at the time when the French
woman is considering her second instalment or
summer ones. but that they have no occasion FOR
thin until the Newport season has fairly com
mcrced. Indeed, they even demand sometimes that
The dressr. akcr shall furnish their future winter
warGrcbes and their present summer ones at about
he sarrc time. and the result IS that America Is
cons iaered a steam heated arctic zone.
4 recent frock Of grass linen was embroidered
with colOred flowers and built over A foundation
Of buttercup silk. Another was incrusted with
chol,cr and waisthand of cerisc silk. Some frocks
OF thin white stuff with black sarnitures are GER
tainy effective II trife bizarre.
Felix shows dainty CONNECTION OF white lawn
with skirt ornamcnted by many rows Of ruff1es
c,lred with narrow black lace and beaded by black
Of pufs SCI arated by OF accedged insertions.
The sash Is Empire AFFAIR of fancy cream and
pink ribbon. The neck Is cut square, with a bow
Of narrow ribbon Of the same pattern at every
corner.
profuse garniture of narrow Chantilly lace and
foundation of blue silk certain shade of bright
blue makes charming combination with black
and white. A gown OF silky white mohair has
three rows Of heavy black lace embroidery incrus-
white null is held by belt of three separate rows