davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

row edge of white in the front of the
bonnet it is still not considered the hest
FORM Tor young women. 1t is thought in
their case to invite more attention than
is consistent with the ethics of unnappi-
ness. SO they are no longer worn by the
SInartest women In elderly bonnets
however, the cap of widowhood is still
seen, and deep turnover cuffs and coll
lars of thin white lawn with a hem
stitched edge. is a frequent accompani-
ment.
In Paris these neat accessories are not
worn by widows alone, but are the priv
lege OF young and old alike. And with
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19
SUMMER MOURNING.
THE ETIQUETTE OF WIDOWS CAPS
AND WELLS.

Half Mourning at Present is COnfin-
ed Strictly TO Black and White
Combinations-BOth Weight and
Density of the Trappings of Woe
Have Been Materially Lightened-
Tiny Bonnets COquettishIy Drap-
ed With Thin Silky Stuffs Are
Worn Even During the Earliest
Stages OF Grief-COrrect Materi-
ais and Trimmings That May Be
Appropriately Used.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

u uncommon fineness and delicacy, and
iery little heavier in weight than the
nousSeline.
Both sorts will be finished around in
he same way, with hemstitclled bor-
Ter an inch and half deep or else with
! hem the same depth of English crepe.
Teiqs of nuns Yelling, though not SO fash
Dnai9le as those of the other materials.
ire less expensive and may still be had.
TINY BONNETS
All bonn5ts which accompany long wells
IRE small and snugly fitting. Except a
bring OF crepe or the veil material about
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

the brim no trimming is used, the veil
covering the rest of the bonnet COM
For elderly widows the adjustment. of
the veil is very simple and plain. One
square end is taken, divided equally IN
the middle and drawn over the bonnet
crown in close, fiat pleats; these then are
pinned at the sides with stick pins or
plain slide brooches of dull jet.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

Crescent. Evangeline, Concordia, Laurel
Alma. Harmonic, Alpha, Delta and Es-
Their rei':' Beacon Light is the name OF the
Staten Island chapter, and Ruth, Soldsn
Rule, Radiant, Rising Star and Bet lits,
various chapters are designated. In all
there are about one hundred chapters,
with nearly 124,OOO members. That quiet
ly and unostentatiously they accomplish
a vast amount of good one cannot doubt,
one of their watc1TWords being Let Wo-
man ever prove herself woman's tTuest
friend y DIANA CROSSWAYS.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

Mourning etiquette changes little from
season to season. but though few. they
are all-important to those who wear the
apparel of grief. The last years marks
pne important reform in the old abuses
Of black wearing, which. however, is
much less common now than even five
years ago. 1t is still a fashionable and
eminently decent custom to put on black
for the dead, and it is one that will
doubtless continue for many years TO
come. But the amenities of life no
longer exact it, and there are those who
consider the custom paganish as well as
unhealthy. They claim, indeed, that in
time it viii be done away with entirely.
Meanwhile such reforms as can, be
forced upon the grief-stricken are going
bn. Fashion and good sense doing all
woe agreeable to the eye and not too
burdensome TO the flesh
THE MOURNING VEIL
The chief change mentioned has been
= shortening of the deep wells worn in
The first stages of application.
These now reach no lower than the
waist line and very often but little below
the shoulders.
Widows bonnet draperies may be a
little deeper than waist length and even
come 10 the knees and below if liked.
The shorter veil, however, is the one
most approved, and instead of the old
heavy crepes and nuns veilings the
dghtest possible materials are used
A thickish quality of black silk muslin
With a dull finish is one texture used by
Widows.
other wells are of a soft silk canvas,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19
SUITABLE MATERIALS.

For the first mourning Henrietta cloth,
cashmere nuns yelling and dull silks are
for gowns Foulard silks and lustreless
Serges follow in the next stage, and for
dreSsy moments among the new ma
terlals there are dull silk grenadines
etamlnes and canvases that may be worn
even for the heaviest mourning. These
are appropriately trimmed with folds of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19
IN BLACK AND WHITE

If you want a glass of the finest ice
cream soda ever produced on earth,
favored with pure crushed fruit, come
to the z. c. M. l. drug store We are
always to the front for everything first
class
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19
DESIGNS FOR GOWNS.

a few handsome models here shown
will give further ideas as to modish
mourning wear.
All the totlets for first black are trim
med with English crepe which handsome
and melancholy material is in high favor
once more as a garniture. In many
cases it may even form quite half of the
costumes as may be seen with one gown
is of Henrietta, cloth with the skirt heavily
trimmed from waist to hem with gore
shaped bands Of the crepe. This is also
lavlshly displayed on the bodice, the chief
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

No lustrous texture. or cut jet hat or
nament $ considered good taste for the
first stuffs, hat ribobns and jet orna-
extreme plainness is thought the best
form. For light mourning black quilts,
wings and simple silk flowers may trim
The hats. and for polite or second black
both gown and hat is an allowed elegance
Lavender and all the attendant shades of
violet, however, are no longer mourning
tlnts. Purple in all its tones has become
IaSnio'a pie color, and so has lost the
sad Significance If once bod
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19
WIDOWS CAPS.

After a year the long veil may be dis
carded and a short face one of Brussels
net, edged with fold of crepe, worn in
stead.
As to the widows cap Itself, that mar
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

the inconsistency of fashion they do ex-
acty what the cap has been abandoned
the pretty wearer are broken and that
she IS presumably once more in the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

feature of which is stylish cape effect
at the top of the snug sleeves
A charming second black dress is
realized in silk canvas and black and
Whlte striped taffeta. This forms the
sleeves and bodice proper over which is
hung a loW-necked sleeveless blouse of
the canvas. The skirt plain and made
loose from the foundation, is slashed at
the hips to show the striped silk lining
80 comblned these materials are es-
peclally handsome but others could be
used with equally good effect For ex-
ample bodice Of shot or checked silk
'etamine grenadine, or plain black silk.
Again the gown could be of the figured.
snot or striped stuff, and the under bodice
OF pam black or white. The simplicity
OF lhe model recommends it to both fat
and lean.
AN ALL BLACK COSTUME.
In the costume with. the tucked skirt
and balloon sleeves may be recognized
something very dressy indeed, but quite
suitable Tor young lady in the middle
stages of black This is of plain Indian
foulard with the bodice arranged with a
jacket effect in white embroidery batiste
over crisp lining. Inside the jacket is a
vest of the plain batiste with quilting of
the black foulard which in crimped frills
also finishes the wrists of the sleeves
The chapeau for this pretty and elegant
costume seems on the other hand very
simple
1t is OF dull rough chip with very low
round crown. Over this the trimming a
single big bow of taffeta ribbon edged with
a narrow reching of black silk muslin, is
put on to create an even hatter effect.
IN BLACK AND WHITE
For the very hot weather gowns of pure
white with black trimmings are admissible
for even the deepest mourning.
Charming gowns for home and hotel are
made of null and plain white batiste.
with the skirts only deeply hemmed or
trimmed at most with three wide tucks.
Not under any circumstances are frills
of any sort on these thin gowns con-
sidered consistent with mourning This
plainness, and a black ribbon stock and
belt are all that divide the white frock
of grief from the white one of joy.
NINA FITCH.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1896-07-19

Younger women may have the veil
draped with a more coquettish effect on
a trimmed bonnet, but it is only in the
first weeks of grief that it is now ever
allowed to hang on the face.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
ghe aahia Daily gae1e onaae goruine September 1886

to Burton, Kan. Through Pullman
sleepers Burton, Kan, to Pueblo. Den
yer, FL Paso. Lon Angeles. San Diego and
San Francisco Connects at Burton.
Kan, with A. T & S. F. for points in
Colorado, Wyoming. Utah. Nevada, Ida
no, Montana, Oregon, Washington, New
and Old Mexico. Arizona and Cahfor-
mia
No. log. St Louis limited-Has re-
Ginning chair cars (seats free) and Pull
man buffet drawing room sleepers TO St
Louis. Reclining chair cars (seats free
and Pullman Palace Sleeper Monett TO
Dallas, Tex, via Paris Connects at
Monet with No for points in Arkansas
and Texas. Connects at Monet with
No S which connects at st. Louis Union
Station with all lines for the east, north
and southeast.
Through tickets on sale to all points
For further information call on or
address W. ". TAGG,
City Ticket Agent.
Or. W. TORREY. Depot Agent.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
NEW BICYCLE LOCK.
No Losing of Keys Associated with Thh
One.


A new bicycle-locking device has just
been patented by Mr.. W. A. Martin, o
locksmith of No. 195 South Halste5
street, Chicago. Mr.. Martin is a coi'
ored man, who has given his attentica
to electrical devices for some time.
This last invention promises TO work
needed reform In the field of safety
checking machines. Everyone who has
ever had anything to do with the al
legged safety" bicycle and umbrella
stands which Turk for the unwary in
al parts of Chicago, viii partially real
ize the extent of the field that lies open
tor some really practical device.
The principle of all the machines now
on the market is about the same. You
place your wheel in the rack. get key,
which is supposed to unlock it. aad
fake your chances on getting it out
II the key is lost, or for any reason re-
iases TO work, the lock must be broken
to release the wheel. 1t is about the
esme with the umbrella holders.
Martins device is based on an entire
" different principle. Placing a ma
chine in the holder locks it. To release
It all that is necessary is to press
button at the counter and the lock flies
open There are 70 keys TO becoms
lost or 20 become clogged and refuse &c
work.
Technically, the key Is held In by
spring clasp, which is held by a lstcha
Prmature. By turning light current
through a magnet in the hack of the
lock, the armature is released and the
lock opened.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
MISSOURI PACIFIC RAILWAY co.
Time Card. Effective June Is. 1886.
Jeave-East Bound

MISSOURI PACIFIC RAILWAY co.
Time Card. Effective June Is. 1886.
Leave-East Bound.
Train No 10. kansas and Ne
braska Limited" for Fort Scott
Train 10. 6. Kansa. City and st.
Louis Express. $40 D. m.
Leave for South and West.
Train No. s, for Clearwater. Con-
way Springs. Anthony. Kiowa.
Rins%an: No Nor E,na., Oxford
Train No. 81. for Conway 80 O. H.
Springs and Anthony. $40 D. m.
Leave for North and West.
Train No 9. kansas and Ne
braska Limited" for Hutohtn-
son. Pueblo. Colorado Springs
r aaa So s. iexcept Sunday OLD p M
for Mount Hope and Hutchin-
son ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. TN a. m.
Arrive at wichita from the East.
Train No. 9, kansas and Ne
braska Limited" from Fort
Scott and St Louis Ks,.as c,tv l2:55 p m.
and st. Louis. ..-:-..-...-::.. 7:lo A. m.
Arrive at Wichita from South and West
Train No g. from Kiowa, An
thony. Conway Springs and D.
NJ and A. points...........-...... sos p. m
Train No. As. from Anthony and
Conway Springs. loss a. m
Arrive at wichita from North and West.
Train No TO- from Denver, Col
orado Springs. Pueblo and
Hutchinson 10 a. n.
Train No. 4s4. from Hutchinson
and Mt. Hope. $50 D. m
For further information call on or ad-
dress City Ticket office. Mo. Pac. Ry., ia
n. Main St, Wichita, Kan.
e r. BLECKLEY, p. and T. A.
Depot corner Wichita and 2nd st.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
FREE TO CYCLIST READERS OF THE
EAGLE.
Valuable Handbook on the Wheel Sent
to BicxcIists with Our Com plimeuts

to Bicycl with Our Compliments.
A book which may be read to great
advantage by all cycling devotees, has
recently been published by the Cyclist
Companion Publishing Co. 1t contains
useful information for everyone inter-
ested in the wheel, including hints and
instructions for the beginner, the lady
rider and the tourist. Many pages are
devoted to points on the care and repair
Of a wheel so that the average rider
may learn to keep and mend his wheel
without frequent visits to a repair shop.
Suggestions on training and racing by
such riders as Zimmerman and Bald
are among the interesting articles,
records is also included. Points on
touring, both in L. S. and Europe with
a number of choice routes, suggestions
on dress, medical advice on healthful
cycling, and a, wealth of useful and in
teresting information, with a collection
of half-tone photographs of famous
racing men and prominent riders. max
ing altogether a vaiuable acquisition to
any cyclists library.
Arrangements have been made so
that all readers of the Eagle who are
interested in bicycling can have copy
of the Cyclists Companion Publishing
Co, 1913 y. 10Th Street, Philadelphia,
Pa, with three two-cent stamps TO de-
fray the postage and incidental ex-
penses. In writing state our paper as
there are a special edition published for
our readers.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
The Yenu, De MILO.

Henry Bpest, through whom ths
Venus de MILO came into the hands o.
the French in ISIS, has just died. owe,
'e0 years old, on the Island of Milo
where he had married Greek woman
de happened TO be on the spot wher:
TIE peasants first dug up the statue
aud, struck by its beauty, induced then
20 keep its discovery secret, notified th'
French consul and arranged for the de
livery Of the statue 10 the Grew of the
French rnan-of-war that came to Mile
to carry IL away.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
CONNECTIONS

No 101. Kansas mail-Has reclining
chair cars lseats free and Pullman
drawing room sleeper 10 Wichita and
Burton. Kan. Connects at Wichita
Kan. with >. 7. a ;. F. for points IN
Cherokee strip and Oklahoma Con
meets al Burton. Kan. With A T. &
8 r. for points in Kansas
No. Zoe. St Louis mAil-Has reclining
chair cars lseats free) 10 St Louis and
Pullman drawing-rooEn sleeper 20 Mo-
natf Connects az Pierce City. No. with
n, EOS for points in Indian Territory via
Neasho. at MoletI with No. ;. the Tex
as limited Ivestieu1ed) which has re-
cifning chair cars tseais fneel. Pullman
drawing room sleepers 70 Galveston VIA
paris and Dallas. has dining car Tall
h,na TO Dallas; connects ct Monet with
No . which connects at Union Station
ST. Louis. with az lines for the east.
north and southeast
No. los. Colorado and California lin
;ted-Has reclining chair cars seats
free TO Burton and Anthony. Kan.
Pullman buffet drawing room slee,e-s
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
The Season

s I1cTC 80.
Calling is now the order of
the day. You can't do it
properly unless you are equip
ped with engraved cards.
They are artistic; all others
have been relegated to days
of barbarism. If you haven't
the proper thing, we will get
them for you. They cost no
more than the the cheap
printed or poorly written ones
and besides, you are up with
the times.
If you have a plate we will
get you 100 latest cards for
$1.oo, or have your name en-
graved at $3.50 per hundred.
We have samples and de-
signs in handsome Wedding
Invitations, At Home Cards
at prices that will get your
trade.
THE EAGLE PRESS
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
Studied In Prison.

Louis XII. when duke of Orleans wa
long imprisoned in the tower OF
Bourges, applying himself to hin
studies, which he had hitherto neg
lected: he became, in consequence, az
enlightened monarch.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
The
Greatest
Medium.
THE WICHITA WEEKLY EAGLE

Established in 1872 and for twenty-four
years has stood at the head of all Week
lies in the state. There are people in
this county who nave read IL from It's
first issue and are readers today. Why
dc they read it? Simply because they
are after the reliable and latest news
and Can only get IT through this medium
1t has more columns of live reading
than all the Weeklies IN the county.
Business men are approached daily by
representatives and even propristors Of
these local papers with the stereotyped
expression tina. they nave the largest
circulation in the county. Well. We pay
the postage They do not II they
are the local papers they claim they are
hard to locate There nave been hun
dreds Of them in the twenty-four years
that the Eagle has been in the field and
have died Is many more must do IN
der their false representation You
want a good medium 10 do your adver-
Using in; you want
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
VALUE FOR YOUR MONEY.

want 70 patronize those who are cspa-
bic Of patronizing you You receive
the benefits from the seventy employees
OF the Eagle; you get more circulation
from the Weekly Eagle than you can
anywhere else. The readers OF tn.
Weekly get four times as much live
news for soc as they get from the other
weeklies for 800 and Sl-5o- This % the
time when price and quantity tell You
get ali you can and pay as Httle =. you
can. Therefore the Weekly Eagle g
the paper for the advertiser and reader
alike.
Rates made known on application.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22


Many Others, HENS Minds Run to Sec
tIonaI Antag October 3 Appoint
ed as a Day of Fasting, Confession and
Prayer-D. L. Moody Leads the Call
All Creeds and Parties Invited.
Chicago, H., Sept 21-At a union
meeting of Christian ministers and lay
was called by D. L. Moody, and which
completely filed Central Auditorium
the suggestion was made that in view
of the present political and industrial
crises, it would be desirable to have a
day of humiliation and prayer through
out the whole nation. The suggestion
so manifestly reflected the feelings OF
all present that the following call to the
Christian patriots Of the nation was at
once proposed and unanimously adopt
ed by rising vote:
ITO the Christian Citizens of the Unit
ed States: In common with a large num-
Der of fellow citizens, of every religious
and political creed, we believe that our
nation is in the throes of a great con-
ffct, portending the most serious con-
sequences unless there be the nlerciful
tnterposition of the Divine hand We be
iieve this to be true Independently of
any settlement of the present president
Ial cntest, ne way or the other. On the
other hand, that mysterious factor
known as public confidence" is de-
dining. as illustrated by the depression
In both financial and industrial circles.
-. Ill ,ax,1
even sectional feeling is running unu-
sually high, and likely to become in
tenser as the day of the election draws
near. Not only is it true that questions
requiring the most careful and dispas-
sionate consideration are very likely to
be determined in many sections in the
heat of passion, but after their deter
nination the results may prove baneful
over a wide surface for a heightened
period.
I'VE would not view the situation,
perplexing and forboding as III is, out
side of its relation to the mind Of God.
We believe in His presence and agency
among us. He is the governor among
the nations, and will be entreated of His
people. But we believe this 20 be time
for Christian patriots to follow the ex-
ample of our forefatlers in earlier crises
which have confronted us, and pray I'M
ltedly to Him that keepeth covenant
and mercy for them that love Him and
keep His commandments that He
would visit us with especial grace.
I'VE, therefore, affectionately invite
and earnestly urge our Christian fellow
citizens throughout the length and
breadth of our land, irrespective of de-
nominaltional or political utilization. to
Join with us in observing Thursday, Oct
8, as a day Of fasting, confession and
prayer to Almighty God, that He will al
lay passion and restrain evil among us;
that he will strengthen faith and in
spire hope; that He will part wisdom
and bestow patience, and that He will
for give our iniquities as a nation and
grant us His salvation
I'VE would further respectfully COM
mend that lin addition to the gatherings
held in the usual places of worship on
that day union meetings be arranged
for i'm the afternoon or evening, where
all may come together to unite their
hearts and voices in what, We are per-
suaded, is a common cause"
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
Music of the Turkish Language,

The Turkish language is said by
scholars to be the softest snd mes
musical language of modern times. be
ing better adapted 10 che purposes o;
musical notation and recitation than
even the italian.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22

Elegant free reclining chair cars on all
trains and Pullman Palace sleepers from
Wichita to Chicago and Kansas City with
out change. Also sleepers on all night
trains to Fort Worth, Houston, San An
tonic and New Orleans. Wichita sleeper
for Kansas City on 1850 p. m. train will be
open for occupancy a p. m, and sleeping
car passengers arriving at SIS a m. can
remain in sleeper until a. m. Tickets
sold and baggage checked to all points
north, south, east and west. Steamship
tickets sold to all European points at low
est rates. Passenger station corner Doug
las and Meade avenues. Telephone 100.
HAL S. RAY, D. z. A.
JOHN SEBASTIAN,
G. p. & T. A. Chicago.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22

Tenderf60t-T cont understand the
epitaph or this tombstone It SAYS:
"He Talked Hisself 10 Death" How,
that?
Bronco Pet%That's right. he called
A,Iali Ike a liar.-Chicago Record
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22

Rites Of advertising made known upon
application.
The proprietors reserve the right 10 re-
ject and discontinue any advertisements
contracted for either by themselves or
their agents.
Entered in tn postoff1ce at wichita as
second-cIass matter and entered for trans
mission through tho mails as such.
Eastern Business once. The Tribune
Building, New York City: Western Bust
ness ONCE, ''Ine Cookery" Chicago: The
S. c. Beckwith Special Agency. Sole
Agents Foreign Advertising.
Readers of the Eagle when in New York
City or Chicago, can see copies OF the
paper at the once Of our agent al the ad-
dress given above.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1896-09-22
TRAINS

GOING NORTH AND EAST.
No 9 Kansas City, st. LOuis
and Chicago limited daily
Noe Colorado Springs, Den
yer andPaciflc coast daily
No Kansas City st. Louis
and Cbicagnnight express
daily except Sunday
NoSAccomInodation daily
except Sunday.
GOING SOUTH A nd WEST
No / Fort Worth, Dallas,
Houston and Galveston
express, daily.............
No ! OklahomI, FIT Worth
New Orleans and Pacific
coast, daily............
No 3 Oklahoma, Ft Worth
Dallas and New Orleans
express, daily. except
SUNDAY ................
No 8 Fort Worth, Houston
Galveston and San Anto-
mic express. daily, except
Sunday.................
ko3l Accommodation, ex-I
cept Sunday..