New-York tribune., 1896-03-29
NEW DESIGNS IN SILKS.
RECENT IMPORTATIONs FOR SPRING AND
SUMMER.

|
The importation OF summer silks and satins from
| the great French manufacturers shows the promi-
nence Of Marie Antoinette designs There many
bright chene flowers printed white and pale
sat!ns and tanetas. These mark that gay but short
period of the Little Trianon when an affected SIM
plicty and all OF flower -garlanded shep-
herdess fashions were In vogue Pale lavender. rose.
cel blue and strawcolored satins shown printed
with long-stemmed lilies. sprays OF button
or other blossoms. The flower printed satns
often brocaded in fire patterns OF fern leaves.
clusters sprays in the tint Of the ground.
and the flowers then printed a Ia chens over
this ground.
Ombre or shaded effects. which usually intro
duced with chene-printed flowers. a noticeable
part OF the seasons colorng. Great roses other
blossoms printed In many varying tones of the
color shown on taffeta grounds Of harmo-
nizing hues. These silks intended FOR the gay
bodice be with a skirt Of plain color In
design and coorlng these elks closely resemble the
shadow silk recently used in artistic upholstery.
There many satin-strped as well as satin
brocaded grounds. which vary In pattern from n
fire line TO a half-iach stripe. Sometimes the
stripes are graduated across the breadth, from "A
wide stripe d hair line; sometimes they
graduated in groups on each side OF the centre
in what is termed by stretch OF French imaglna-
ton "berceau' or vaulted The stripes sup
posed reproduce the graded shading OF The artist
who sketches a vauted roof or hollowed-out space
Some OF the most effective Silks nave WhNe
grounds and are figured with huge tulips and other
flowers In delft-bue colo'ing. great many OF
the silks are characterized by the OF ceramic
patterns and coioring The iovelest pllm-leaf pat
terms In such color!ng as are seen on old Persian
tiles are shown ivory-tinted satin and tafetas.
Special attention is called in the Importers book
to the ourdissage "warpng" Of the silks. no;
because there has been any special change made
in the warp but 10 distinguish these warp-printed
silks from stamped India silks. Since the tine OF
jacquard and before. al the richer patterns or
satins and other grades OF silk have been printed
In the warp which must be carefully tied In place
for the purpose and united before the warp is
woven in While the new silks especially fas-
cnatlng In pattern, reproducing as they do the
lovely coors and flower patterns OF o.d seVres
china. the clear blue ana white OF delft and the
Oriental patterns Of Indi4 porcelain. there is no
specia. change in the warDing. They are stamped
in the same manner chene-prnted goods must be
made and the term 'ourdissage Is added to the
menclature of the goods 10 call attention 10 the
care necessary in the printing OF these goods In
such perfection OF cooring.
Some Of the lovcliest white damasse satins
printed with irregular al-oVer chains Of small roses
or other flowers; others are striped with bands
Of contrasting hue on which are prntod many tin
rosebuds Large and miniature flowers are both
seen in the new silks.
Stripes Of irregular waving outline are seen on
some OF the sat!ns. Even the threadbare gown
OF .he poor student has escaped the mockery OF
fashion S)rne OF the handsome shot Saline show
irregular lines OF the color under the surface such
Ines as were made by the wear at the multitude
rous folds OF those od-fashonod gowns worn by
students and other men OF learning in the middle
ages whence the satin takes It's Spanish name OF
studiantina or students satin.
The new MORE. which Is entirely diMeren; in
psttern from u MORE antique MORE Francais
PROMISES TO revive MORE effects. 1t is called MORE
nouvelle and vii. be especially rich and effective
l.l..k Cfik
will continue TO be worn with fancy conages.
Black satin and satin brocades, which were never
more popular, shown in many varieties OF weight
and sheen There H. a tendency 10 use satin OF
subdued gloss in place OF the Highly glace satin
duchesse and various STYLES OF dull gloss black
satins are shown under the name of Feur de Eoene.
peau de Norway other terms. Peau De Nor
way il a satin dull enough in surface 10 De used
,n second mourning. 4 black satin or brocade may
worthy quality can be purchased for slN To S
4 large portion of the SILK importation ~ taken
nm with SILK gauZes imported under the general
us mo Of .uousseline de sole. These are broche or
hrocaded usually in self color. In heavy floss SIR
Win miniature roses buds and small designs, or the
game rs imprlme printed with designs IN con-
erastino color They will be used for bodices over
satin to be worn with satin skirtsi ,. -,
Liberty satins In display IN a. variety OF
charming Persian patterns and Will make the hano,
soonest s;lk waists with plain SIN or wool
aLirts Grenadines black gauze brocadcd win
heavy patterns OF various lace designs promise 10 DE
nopuiar for wear summer afternoons