davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1896-06-21

rial tho same as the other dresses. Tho little
gown OF white drill shown in the sketch 10
trimmed with narrow white braid. aud the cuffs
and collar are of blue cambric to match the
shirt waist Pink cambria Is used in another
coat and SIX rt costume with a deep. round col
lar, and white piqu6 gowns are made mp in tho
same way with cOlored linen cambria collars,
which, to be effective. must match the little
shirt waist
a short double-breasted REFER coat of pique
or linen. with skirt to match IS a very desirable
dress for small girls under ten; and the dearest
little coats for two-year-od ba bies are made OF
white piqu6 and linen and trimmed with en-
brodery. One pretty frock shown in the illus
tration is OF fiowered wash silk in blue and
white. The skirt is slightly gorcd, and the low,
loose blouse bodice is tucked at intervals and
trimmed with bands OF white satin worked with
blue flowers Under this is q gumpe Of tucked
white silk and the waist is fastened on the
shoulders with knots or white ribbon. The
lower part OF the sleeves Ia of the tucked white
silk with bands of en- broidered satin. A street
dress for n girl of twelve Is Of corn flower blue
canvas. cut with u gored skirt and trimmed
with ecru grass lawn embroidery In bands
stripping the bodice In slanting lines. The belt
and collar are OF ribbon in darker shade. Pale
blue gin CHAM max cs the lastd with pu fed
yoke and frills over the shouders-
The sun., 1896-06-21

colors make pretty youthful gowns for dressy
occasions, and dotted Swiss In yellow. pink.
blue. trimmed with cream valonciennes lace
and insertion. Is much used for the same pur-
pose. They made up very simply with
gored or straight skirts finished with q plain
hem, ono or two rows Of insertion. or q narrow
lace edged ruche at the bottom. Tho waists are
the soft, full blouse shape, always becoming TO
youthful figures, whether they are angular or
too teshy. because the fulness disguises the
outline In either case.
Coat and skirt suits worn with shirt waist
are very fashionable for girls over l2 and they
are made OF linen, pique. and white drill, as
well as wool serge. The sailor blouse and plain
skirt is pretter for smaller girls, and such cos
The sun., 1896-06-21
THE DAINTY TEA GOWN.
Its Eject Largely Depends on the Woman
Who Wears II.

The tea gown OF rich, elegant materials may
flourish more appropriately In winter, but the
summer edition OF that aesthetic garment is a
dream OF daintiness which the heavier gown can
never attain. White batiste. linen lawn. and
china silks In pretty, bright tints are made up
into this negige gown. and rows and rows of
insertion and yards OF hne lace are used for the
flnish. The pretty effect OF tho tea gown de-
pends SO much on the woman VINO wears 1t that
she must be thoroughly conscious OF all her inn
petfcctions TO make any kind OF success
OF her gown and II she is not blessed with a
goodly share OF physical perrections and album
dant grace of manner she had better eschew
this variety OF dress altogether. A "neglig6
soul"-in the Dsthetic sense-is not the gift OF
every woman, and the tea gown which may en-
hance the charms of one woman will bring out
every defei;t In another. However, comfort 10
The sun., 1896-06-21
HINTS FOR TIE HOUSEHOLD.

The great annoyance Of people who are baking
fruit pies comes from the loss OF the rich syrup
of juicy pies. To prevent this take q strip OF
,nusln ono inch wide and long enough to go
around tho pie, and Jap. Wet tho cloth in cold
water and lay It around the edge half upon tho
pie md half upon the plate, pressing II on either
side. When the pie Is taken from the oven ro-
move the cloth. THIS will DO found success.
Black silk or satin which has become shiny
may be cleaned In the following way: Take
clean potato peclings. cover them with water.
and allow thcm to soak twenty-fonr hours.
Then steam them, and well sponge tine material
with the water l.ny the material between clean
cloths. and iron on the wrong side until 1t Is
quito dry.
1t Is said n large bowl of water placed as near
as possible to the head of sick person will in
duce sleep. and healthy people will often sleep
better II shallow vessels hlcd with water arc
placed about the room.
II clothespins are boiled u fow minutes and
quickly dried overy few weeks, IL Will cleanse
them and make them more durable.
Before commencing to soed raisins, after the
stems are removed. cover the fruit with very
The sun., 1896-06-21
4 WOMIN'S HOUR.
Mans Entire Day Could Not he FiIle0
More Completely.

From the Chicago Chronicie-
"Please state to the Court exactly what you
did between s and 0 o'clock Wednesday
morning." said lawyer to a delicate-looking
little woman on the witness stand.
"Well," she said. after a moments reflection,
II washed my two children and got them ready
for school and eewed button on Johnny's coat.
and mended rent In Nelle's dress. Then I
tidied MP my sitting room and made two beds
and watered my house plants and glanced over
the morning paper. Then I busted my par
lor and set things to rights in II, and washed
some lamp chimpeys and comhed my baby's
hair and Srwcd button one of her little
shoes. and then swept ont my front entry and
brushed and put away the children's Sunday
clothes and wrote u note to Johnnys teacher.
asking her to excuse him for not being at school
on Friday. Then fed my canary bird and gave
tho grocery man an order. and swept Off tho
back porch. and then sat iOwn and restcd for
II few minutes before the clock struck o. That's
all"
AM" said the dazed lawyer. Excuse me.
Judge; must get my breath before call the
next witness"
The sun., 1896-06-21

silks, make the most exquisite gowns Of all
trimming but white glace silks with tiny
stripe and spots OF color are decidedly pretty.
gown of this striped and spotted with green
and pink is made with Vatican back and full
loose front of white silk muslin striped cross
wise with Nalenciennes lace insertion. The
sleeves are close to the elbow. where they are
finished with little frils OF green and hite silk.
and the same rutties trim the bottom OF the
skirt. Another pretty design carried out in white
at the waist in the back. and pink starting in
rosettes on either side ties across the front over
the points of n lace trimmed flchu OF crepe.
This Is cut cape shape in the bacK TO avoid extra
fulness and crosses in front with short points,
while the neck is fitted UP high with pink
satin ribbon collar.
The sun., 1896-06-21

fNdm the Tnu Mall Gnsc,ts
At the moment 1t seems certain that color ia
of" A fiat has gone forth to tho effect that
the exquisitely subtle shades approved by the
omnipotent powers who arrange such matters
demand skins OF cream unmingled with rose.
or at any rate with any color deeper than the
heart OF an opening blush-rose bud. II is gen.
orally safe 10 accept the statement that in sums
mer less rouge is necessary than in winter for
with elicatey tinted musins and fragile silks
run color is suggestive OF bucolc tend encies
ana there Is always fear that a fatal in
crease or red might accrue beneath the too
pressing attentions OF King Sol; but this season
II has come 10 be regarded as little short of a
crime TO walk abroad with cheeks clad in the
flame OF poppies or blood red roses. A complexion
OF pure cream, with faintest chickering's OF pink
on checks and chin. and lips of LIQUID crimson
these are ordained adornments for ordinary
wear, butin each individual case n hundre aud
one variations will he found necessary for MANY
OF the newest veiings demand n pcrceptihle
amount OF rouge. and of course for special oo-
cas'ons 1t may be found expedent to add TO or
take from the general ingredients mentioned.
The sun., 1896-06-21

Exquisite Adhirs or sik, Muslin. and Paper
Which Are Works of Art,


The latest lamp shades aro works of art eK-
quisite affairs covered and trimmed with ruches
OF soft stuff lace frills. delicate flowers, and
ribbons. and this In spite OF the fact that 1t has
been said that fancy globes and shades OF tinted
glass or porcelain are to take tho place or the
fascinating huffs" 30 much admired and COW
eted, all because some prudent woman says they
are lodging place for dust. A soft brush win
take the dust out, and even II the shade cannot
be cleaned with soap ana water. IL Is dainty
work for niTnblc fingers TO recover the frame
with fresh materials and new colorS. One
woman renewS tho flowers upon her lamp
shades according to the season.
One OF the n2veltlGs in shades is mndo the
shape OF a shell and is intended for u corner
lamp, 1t is made OF white iiuted mousseline de
sole over delicate pink silk. Thetrimming con-
terials and tiny white shells mingled with some
sprays OF sea Inosses.
Another shade representa- three-coFnered
Continental hat of soft yellow silk decorated
g. main shoeL-AdU. -
The sun., 1896-06-21

with q profuslon Of fine white lace and rosOttcs
OF yellow satin ribbon.
Many shades are composed entirely of tulle
fiounces, and one could readily imagine them to
be q ballet dancers costumes. Crepe papers
with dainty Dresden figures as well rs with
Delft windmills, and IN plain colors decorated
with flowers, are made up go prettily into lamp
shades for summer homes that ono looks At
them the second time TO SEQ II they are really
paper.
The sun., 1896-06-21
Contradictory Figures.

FTOIH NE thIo1OO Iribuna
Mrs Ferguson-George II should cease TO care for
you nnd fall in love with some handsomer man wbaa
would You dor
Mr. Ferguson with some nerceness)-rd sue tho
scoundrel for 100000.
Mrs. Ferguson applying the corner of han5k.n
chiei to her eyc)-And yet when told you the other
day how dearly ia love you II you would only buv.
mo that $40 vase at spo,cash Co.'S you only said
"H'mphW
The sun., 1896-06-21

fus OF yeast until they are light mix altogether
and let the mixture stand thirty-six hTprs. %Snr
Then strain and put into Jugs .n is. .oe i'm.
proves IL.
The sun., 1896-06-21
HINTS OF JUrEw1DE FASHIONS.

Chiidren,s Gowns More Attractive this Sea-
son than Ever Before.
New and original things in juvenile fashions
are not expected just now, but there are SO
many variations in tho little gowns that few
suggestions may be of some use The materials
for chdren's clothes nre so pretty and varied
this season that their gowns were never 80 at-
The sun., 1896-06-21

the old-fashioned article Cornnower blue.
bright red. and all the shades OF gray. seem to
be favor!te cOlors. and skirts OF these dresses
arc made in tho new way. not so full. shirred
In around the hips over separate silk lining
with less fulness than the outer skirt and made
separate at the bottom. Embroidered lawn
traced with a gold thread Is the usual trimming,
and glRc6 silk is used for the wide folded belt.
which extends almost 70 tho bust. BLACK silk is
effective for this purpose and short basques
OF thu crepe sometimes fall below. Tho
wrinkled sleeve, itting the arm closely.
and finished with a short pun or two
or three not very wide ruiiles at the top,
is the prevailing style for the crepe do chine
dress. And 1t Is only question OF very little
time when this small compromise between bal
The sun., 1896-06-21

Pretty hats and bonnots arc mado OF horse
hair lace. with q decoration of guipuro lRoo
studded with imitation diamonds. Tho latest
straw hats havo high crown and brim which
curves slightly over tho fnco and straight at the
back. Wido black velvet ribbon and feathers,
with bunch of flowers tucked under the brim
form the trimming; but hats and bonncts in
general bloom with gorgeous flowers. filmy
tullo. and resplondont ribbons Violet satin
straw, with green tulle and purple and yellow
pansies, Is one OF the most striking comblna-
tiona.
The sun., 1896-06-21

The tea gown illustrated is Of rose pink cr6pon.
maue with the Vatican back. Satin ribbon run
through embroidery Is the trimming. with lace
on the sleeves and collar. White muslin. spot ted
with mauve. made in this way. with q sailo
q delightful gown for hot days. Oriental printed
muslins are especially desirable for morning
gowns, and they should be lined throughout
effect. A rufile of lace Is a pretty trimming
for the bottom and front. A cape col
and muslin, with lace on the edge, is q
finish for the shoulders, and henmed band OF
muslin with lace frill at tho ends ties around
the waist. Breakfast Jackets are a delight on
warm summer mornings, and an ideal one is
made OF pale blue silk so thin that It IL almost
the trimming, with braces of embroidery
threaded through with blue satin ribbon and
The sun., 1896-06-21

Red ia tho accepted color for golf suits, and
red serge made with Norfolk jaoket and skirt,
finished on tho edges with green leather, is very
chic. Brown cloth skirts. with bright red blouse
waists. are very effective, and Russian crash 10
The sun., 1896-06-21

White linen lawn vests, with hemstitchod
tucks and frill down tho front and n turnover
linen collar, arc ono OF tho novelties to wear
with the cont aud skirt gown.
The sun., 1896-06-21

finished Mt the back with satin bows, while in
front they are combined with shoulder frills OF
gown of white nuns yelling over pink silk
showsa cape with deep fiounce OF lace fast
ened on the shoulder with ornaments Of tine
guipure lace, and sleeves with an open cuf and
plating OF satin ribbon.
The sun., 1896-06-21

hot water and let It stand q few momentp
Drain the water Oft and the seeds may thon DO
removed quito easily.
A paste made Of melted India rubber mixed
with shellao vhrnsh is the best thing 70 use TOT
fastening leather trimmings on wood.
To remove mn odor from barrel half f1ll It
with cold wator. Heat half dozen stones the
size of the palm Of tho hand until they are red
hot and throw them into the water, and let the
water remain in tho barrel until cold; then rinse
the barrel with clean cold water.
During the hot weather the bread box requires
special attention to prevent bread from mould
ing. The box should be scnlded twice week
and aired In the sun Tor an hour petore Iresh
bread Is put in ~. a tin box Is much better TO
uso for holding broad than stone crock.
TIA strip of webbing two inches wide is sewed
tightly on the under side of rug, close to the
edge, 1t will prevent the edges from curling.
To polish shell combs rub them with flannel
on which has boen put some finely powdered
charcoal moistened with littlo water. Then
with clean flannel rub the shell vigorously
with whiting or precipitated chalk to which
few drope OF vinegar has been added. Aftor
this polish with the palm of the hand and dry
powder.
In canning fruit use the extra Juice that can
not be put into the jnrs to mako a jelly. Add
enough dissolved gelntine to the Juice to mako
1t mould when cold: serve II with whipped
cream and you have delicious dessert.
Snndpapor will whitcn ivory handled knives
which have become yellow from age usage.
In washing chamois skns use tcpid water to
which little ammonia has been added. Rinse
them thoroughly. stretch. and put them In tho
shade to dry. When partly dry stretch the
skin again. and the skin will be soft and like
now when DONE
Warm bread and cake should be cut with q
knife tho blade OF which has been heated by
standing It in boiling water.
II q tablespoonful OF vinegar Is added to the
water in which tough meats or fowls are boiled
IL will tend to make them tender.
The sun., 1896-06-21
FRILLs OF FASHION.

Ono Of the perennials OF fashion is the
Figaro jacket, which crops up with great reg
ularty. This season 1t is very short. to display
the wide folded belt and made Of Oriental
al einbrOidery
The sun., 1896-06-21

It's rumored that earrings arc coming into
favor again, and the Duchess OF York has re-
ally appeared with diamonds suspended from
her ears. We are threatened, too. with the old
time bracelets Of blnck velvet, with gold and
ieWelled clasps.
The sun., 1896-06-21

one essential of nGRlIE6 dress, and all women
seek this In some sort OF loose gown.
Thin crepon in white and pale colors Is IA
vorito material for these gowns, since IL Is much
reduced in price and does not muss easily.
Cashmere is never quite out of fashion for this
purpose. and foulard and batistes In tho usual
The sun., 1896-06-21

hot water and let It stand q few momente.
Drain the water Oft and the seeds may thon DO
removed quito easily.
The sun., 1896-06-21

Snndpapor will whiton ivory handled knives
which have become yellow from age or usage.
The sun., 1896-06-21

Warm bread and cake should be cut with q
knife tho blade OF which has been heated by
standing IL in boiling water.
The sun., 1896-06-21

A paste made Of melted India rubber mixed
with shellao varnish is the best thing 70 use Tor
fastening leather trimmings on wood.
The sun., 1896-06-21
LIGHT, DAINTY GOWNS.
Summers Fashions as Settled
for the Season.
UNIVERSAL REIGN OF SILK.
New Varieties Which Woman
Must Have for Lining or
for Dresses.

An Exceptional Season for the Variety of
Materials and Designs nnd the suEses-
tions TO Suit Individual Taste and Purses
Virtues OF the Fouinrds md styles In
which They Arc Made-Costumes or tho
New Crepe dc Chine, tho Latest Dress
Material from Pnris-Cnnvns skirts and
Dresses - white Gowns for Day and
Evening Dress, Either Simply or Eie-
Eantiy Made-Trimmings or tho Newest
Costumes - Tea Gowns Which Depend
for Their Eject Upon tho Women who
Wear Them - Suggestions About tho
Fashions for Children.
Tho campaign of summer dress is at last fully
arranged for tho senson, md fashions have
settled down into their pace, leaving no uncer-
tninty as to what is or what is not to be worn
for at least two or three whole months. There
arc some slight changes, and will be some fresh
The sun., 1896-06-21

II tablespoonful of vinegar is added to the
water in which tough meats or fowls are boiled
1t will tend to make them tender.
The sun., 1896-06-21

minR' to give them style. and arc SO cool and
pleasant to the touch. A yoke OF embroidery
or vest OF finely plated mousseline de sole is all
the trimming necessary to make q success of
this sort of gown. and a novelty in trimming
for taffeta silks is very narrow ruche OF tulle.
This must be not more than an inch wide-less
width Is better-very full, and In some dark or
contrasting color to get tho right effect.
Black tulle Is pretty on Bome of the
light plain colors, as well as tho how-
cred silks, and for white silks striped with
a color tho tulle should match the stripe.
Pointed bolero fronts, trimmed with rows Of
tiny ruches OF tulle set on a little distance
apart and falling over white mouseline de
sole vest make very effective bodice COM
pleted by tho wide belt of plain satin. which is
the distinctive feature Of so many new summer
gowns. Tule and chiffon arc permissible on
one gown, SO the vest may be OF the chiffon,
layishly trimmed with yellow lace. Tulle
ruches are a pretty skirt trimming for light
dressy gowns
The new crepe dc chine Is decidedly the very
latest dress material In Paris. and 1t resembles
crepon in its crlnkled surface. thickness and
weight. but has all tho lustre and softness of
The sun., 1896-06-21

Pink 10 the chosen color OF the latest under
woar; bstiste and silk arc the materials. and
The sun., 1896-06-21

trimmed with yalenciennes lace. and the upper
frill on tho sleeves extends across the front,
where 1t is caught with fancy buckle. Many
OF the prettiest gowns made for the Ascot races
this season were Of fowerel muslin or batiste,
generously trimmed with lace, and the lace
trimmed tlchus and shot glac6 silk belts are
their special features. Ono very exclusive de-
sign for q race gown is shown in the first
sketch, and carried out In the new crepe
de chino cerise in colors and figured with
white Tho skirt Is trimmed with bands of
black velvet ribbon from waist to hem. and tho
bodice has the zouave effect turned back with
revers Of shot taffeta. covered with an embroid-
cry Of black fcelle. There is q wide collar of
taffeta, with an edge of embroidery and a grad
uAted run at tho neck. Rosettes of taffeta
The sun., 1896-06-21

Z. main sheeL-Adv.
The sun., 1896-06-21

developments from time to time. but these are
all matters of detail which do not affect the
general plan of modes This Is exceptional
season in many respects, since materials and
designs are moro varied and numerous than
ever before, and furnish no end of suggestions
for the exercise of individual taste, especially
in all minor points OF decoration, which give
the crowninG finish to any well-thouRht-out
costume. In all the infinite variety Of dress
materials used for summer gowns, silk can
vas and grenadines are perhaps the most fash
ionable and most expensive. too. since o silk
lining OF good quality is q positive necessity
with these transparent fabrics. But wool can
vas and mohairs are quito as good style; and
then there are batistes galore. and an endless
diversity Of cotton materials adapted to the
most limited purse.
Foulards, too are added to the list of silks
this season, much to the delight of all those
who can afford any sort of silk Hown, as they
SO effective in pattern, require SO little trim
The sun., 1896-06-21

In canning fruit use the extra Juice that can
not be put into the jnrs to make jelly. Add
enough dissolved gelntine to tho Juice to mako
It mould when cold: serve II with whipped
cream and you have delicious dessert.
The sun., 1896-06-21

II q strip of webbing two inches wide is sewed
tightly on the under sidc of rug, close to the
odEe 1t will prevent the edges from curling.
The sun., 1896-06-21

Before commencing to seed raisins. after the
stems are removed, cover the fruit with very
The sun., 1896-06-21

In washing ohamois skins use tepid water to
which little ammonia has been added. Rinse
them thoroughly stretch, and put them In tho
ALL arnin and the skin will be soft and lika
The sun., 1896-06-21

II clothesnins are boiled q fow minutes and
quickly dried overy few weeks. IL will cleanse
them and make them more durable.
The Portland daily press., 1896-04-13
AN IMPORTANT ENTERPRISE.
A Fleet of Coal Vessels to Come to Port
land.

A very important matter has been
decided, and from May 1st until No
vember 1st there will be a feet
of coal schooners between Portland,
largely the port Of distribution, and Sid
ney and Louisburg, CD.
The Dominion Coal Company has char
tered ten of the largest coal schooners
and the feet will go constantly between
hero and the ports named above. One of
the schooners chartered is the Alice B.
Crosby, Capt. Bunker. All of the feet
will be first class and fast sailing sohoon-
ers.
For one item 60, 600 tons of coal for rail
road use viii be brought here. OF this
amount the Grand Trunk will take
about $1,000 tons, and the balance will
be taken by tho Boston & Maine and the
Maine Central.
This means much more than the bring
ing Of CO., 600 tons of coal here. The Do
minion Coal Company has discovered
that Portland, the terminus of the Grand
Trunk, is nearer the provinces of Quebec
and Ottawa than any Canadian port, and
as was stated in the Portland Press some
months ago, the prospect is more than
good for the turning Of a large amount
of coal freight business to this port.
Tho Co. 000 tons of coal to be brought here
will be for railroad use, and in itself
will DO an important itsm.
Saturday, the British coal steamer
Caoonna, arrived from Lcuisburg with
1880 tons of coal for the Maine Central
She is chartered by the Dominion Coal
Company, but her cargo formed no part
of the 60, 900 tons to be brought here for
the railroads.
At time when the steamers of the
great ocean lines are about to cease to
run here until the St. Lawrence is frozen
up next fall. the fact that a fleet of coal
sohooners will come here through the
summer months Will be welcome news
to longshoremen and others. 1t means Il
decided addition to the amount of bust
ness on the water front, and Commercial
street dealers will be greatly helped.
The coal feet will of course obtain their
supplies here.