The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1896-03-16
ON H INSIDE
LIFE OF THE DOwN-TRODDEN
PEOPLE OUTSIDE TqiE CITIES.
An Unenlightened. Priest-Ridden and
Primitive SOciety-At "a Cuban
Health Resort.

otACSpouucHCc bOSlCD lTdnScrlDt.
Poor unfortunate Cubar' is the exclama-
ton of one who knows the island and its
people; and. meditating for an instant on
the unprosperity of the one and the hapless
careers of the other. he begins in his next
breath to tell you OF its charming people, SO
gay and lighthearted in the midst of mis-
fortune. He describes the heavenly beauty
Of the place and it's great resources in for
ests, mines and plantations, which have not
yet been developed or appropriated. while it
remains encountered with an ever-increasing
debt. With all the advantages favoring new
world prosperity. its life and wealth are stag
nant with old world domination.
The government of the island is a misno-
mer. and resembles a Roman province in the
decayed season of the empire. 1t is SPANS
last hold upon the new world, and she would
extort sums therefrom to support the treas
ury of the home government. But such is
the state Of affairs that while the poor Gu
bans are taxed to the uttermost little reve-
nue. reaches the old world, but slips through
the fingers of the Spanish officials. In short.
the island is a hunting field, where politicians
grow rich by plumber and blackmaii. The
present instruction is the fifth. Ii is on ac-
count Of the continued fear Of rebellion that
her trade has decreased; for the crops have
been reduced when the creoles or planters
have deserted to the United States or to the
Spanish republics. To meet this deficiency
Spain trebled the taxes and added to the
floating debt. Under these circumstances,
and in a climate fostering inactivity, the
people have had no Ambitions 10 sur them
from their listlessness.
But if the business interests of Cuba are
torpid, the life of the people is not less
SO. Backward in everything, they are most
SO in intelligence. Ignorance is the general
condition and even among the higher classes
education is sadly wanting: They lead a
forts are secured they are satisfied.
During my stay IN Cuba, it was In the
interior. in the farming districts that
obtained the best knowledge of the people.
In the cities there is more or less conven-
t~ionality and life in Havana is pretty
thourb h its n nnss III an are of Course rsp'i Inn,
tied. But the rural life of the island. onerei
some strange experiences, and In the peo-
pie themselves took special interest
WOMEN SMOKE LIKE THE MEN.
The 'quajiros." or country people,, are
naturally indolent. amiable and kindly:
they are more refined in appearance than
the same class of Spaniards, though very
much on a par with the latter in want OF
education. The women, who resemble pref
ty Jewesses, usually smoke as much as the
men, but they lessen their beauty in plas-
lLS nC AahCtt SNa w
ders until one is forcibly reminded of
Humpty-dumpty.
Social life among the well-to-do consists
mostly in visits and dinner parties. where
they indulge In gossip to their hearts con-
tent. In the whole circle the village doc
tor Is generally the only educated person,
and he therefore commands Much respect.
There are no libraries and few books. and
the few newspapers are not generally read.
The Roman Catholic Church Is the only
-l..--l Ls- 4. <.l4.afa hv Tho 0NQrn
ment, but the religion Of the Cubans is
merely nominal. They seldom attend cnurch
unless they live near one. and the congre,
CATION is composed mostly of women and
dogs. The priest never calls on MS PARISH
toner's except when he is summoned In case
u uIar a f mstie dsv - with bull and cock fights
for amusements, and the padre Is usu-
ally an interested attendant.
In the western province of Pinar del hio,
where the insurgents now hold power, is
the famous watering place OF San Diego de
los Banos. which ! remember visiting; The
ings are hotels, which a fine view
of the mountains. The latter are wonder
fully high, and so rugged as TO give a WHO
sight Of which one cannot weary. But my
most delightful experience there was listen
ing to the nightinga.es they mace night
those surroundings u was sublime. The
nightingales are abundant there, and be-
sides them are myriads Of other birds, sucnl
and "cabYeras.' which sing in the daytime.
We STAYED at the best hotel, where we
Spaniards. The table was good and clean.
but otherwise the place was dirty, ana as
consequence the fieas were festive. the
sulphur baths are built along the edge or
the river. which lows with a swift current
at the foot of the mountains. Ii was a
narrow stream then, but in the wet sea-
son wide and rapid; sulphur springs How
into II on both sides, and the banks are en-
crusted with the mineral. To get TO the
baths we had to pay a consultation lee 70
the doctor who has an office at the entrance,
besides 40 cents for the privilege of dipping
into the nasty-smelling water. They say IL
has benefited many people, and so VISITORS
with all kinds of chronic diseases come
there from different parts of the world.
The place was crowded when l was there,
for the season was we'll advanced Ihe ma
jority of the people are men. Old, honey,
paralytic. mi Rheumatic. equity and
generally used-up looking. They spend most
of their time playing cards, and more gam
bling goes on there than seems possible for
so small a place. The Cuban women there
go about during the day looking like witches,
constantly smoking: but they all dress for
dinner. and gorgeously array themselves on
Sunday. There were a few gay and festive
young men. and these followel the pretty
sencritas, who are continually watched by
ruch horseback riding, and IL was q pleas
ure just to watch these skillful Cubans pass
on their spirited horses, which pranced and
curvetted. while we reclined on the ~verandas,
ENJOYING the fresh breeze and beautiful aft
ernoon skies of the tropics.
A BANDIT-INFESTED PARADISE.
Yet in this paradise Spanish mismanage-
ment and injustice have made life almost
uncomfortable. Bands Of robbers infest the
country, and levy blackmail i'm the very
faces OF the authorities. so that there is Sc
curity for neither life nor property. An ex-
tract from my diary is a common instance
of these precarious conditions: have
been living at the 'inca,' or country house.
since the dry season began, in November.
and Ii is hard to realize that this Is the
month Of December when one looks about
out Of doors. for a more delicious day never
il is balmy, and the sunshine Is brilliant.
though just OF the right degree or warmth.
Such a perfect atmosphere makes existence
A real pleasure
Las; night, when all the household had
assembled in the saloon. a servant brought
in a letter for our host and withdrew. Don
VI. read the letter quietly. then arose, and.
Leading his eldest daughter into an inner
room. barred the door and called the men
from about the farm. giving them hurried
orders to summon the neighDorS. The rest
OF us sat watching him, silent AM fright
ened. for a warning had come that the
young girl would be carried away unless a
great sum was paid 10 certain bandits. In a
short time gentlemen armed and spurred
gathered about our host, who stood sword i'm
hand by his daughters threshold. until she
WIS escorted by the numerous body guard
out to the courtyard. where the horses were
waiting, and then thew all departed as quiet
ly as ghosts. Ma one knew where the girl
had been taken except her mother and gov
--al 49, L.