New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-03-01

In front 10 the top Of the choker, OF !elio" coth
covered with a braidng OF black and green ms
| vest Is buttonei into the jacket by TWO rows OF
small cloth buttons The whole OF the basque is
! finished by narrow braided pattern
A dressy gown has brown cloth skirt IN a
pretty tabac shade. with jacket Of fancy gold
and peace ck-blue brocade The sides OF the jacket
fall from the shoulder seams in soft, fanlike pieces.
and round away under the arms over vest OF ell
broidered white silk mu. A belt Of sable holds the
soft vest and sable edges the bottom OF the JACKET
but not the sides. These peculiar corloihatohs Oh
fur and the th!nnest OF fabrics are characteristic OF
the present season. either giving warm touches to
spring gowns. airy ones 10 winter toilets
In looking at the spring models, which are be-
ginning to appear gradually In the showrooms OF the
various ssnaking establishments, am struck py
the wide latitude shown IN the cut OF bodices.
year ago there was little except the rouhd
waist with the pouch front. and last autumn many
OF the couturieres declined show any models eH-
cept those built the basque or jacket pan Iney
are much more catholic now and basque jacket
ana blouse. all three appear, ana one mas silal
pretensons TO favor beyond the other IN sh i -
have been Introduced. None of them strike me a.
being particularly pretty or any improvement upon
the graceful umbrella skirt , 49,,
Undoubtedly new cut Of skirt wil. prevail THIS ms
spring. and the dressmakers are all eager ioF the
honor Of being It's originator, but 1t Is really 700
early yet to assert with confidence JUST wnat FORM
those Of fancy silk are conspicuous. The patterns
are lovely and rich that great deal 81 Trim
ming seems quite unnecessary +N''A hHiDH"t va a.
is used. A pretty frock OF fancy pink ana green
six. Arranged in hair stripes with embroidered
trimmed about the bottom by fans OF white chiffon,
starting from under bows OF lavender ana green
In little full eolets which are lined With a deeper
shade Of green than occurs IN ne SIX ne lnot'
ing out soft scarf belt Of the sk which Is
confined on each SIDE by series OF It,e ra%are
while they practically almost ush'-for hey
81 m eik hay a
terny Of chiffon. stifened probably, anu arranged
with bows Ind and 9o!s Of r sdSI an evening con-
lection OF lavender brocadei silk and Of velvet IN
%hch sn cn with sa7 snS a is Entirely built Of
tho SIX with unique Louis Ky trimming on one
side alone This begins at the hem, covering the
point some nf,ocn inches above. This trimming Is
made by appliquAi figures OF ths velvet, dyed
with gold embroidery and SURROUNDED BY frame
bodice is Of the velvet slashed into tabs about the
bottom over full hip nounce Of white lac. In
ne back the 4ecoe,ar is cut in dep point and
In the front Is vest OF the satin richly I'm
sro saare !" dt so Tha enr dtcoetase is
edged by ruche 81 lace which fai.s IN sott Janots
is s,l1ened 10 stand ulrish, in iny fans mat form
becoming franz 10 the face Inc t9p OF me arm
narrow shoulder strap. but large lace RULES are
fixed into the armho.cs ana fa d,"n On the rms
his gown is an odd and frivolous adaptation OF me
Louis Ky Jacket.
white y-lyet They may be, either hasqu" or blouse
shaped White velvet is charm. ns when en-
broiiered in silver. The same aea Is shown
In a cloth costume which has a skirt # smooth
faced cloth OF reseda green. The waist is Of white
velvet with over 1t iablike collar Of pearly
white ana pale pink paie''es. The collar Is mount.
Cd on resada-srcen satin. There j. high belt OF
tno satin which ends at the sie darts The re-
maiader OF tho bolt Is formed T strips o. ne
paileiies Buttons prominent on all smart
street gowns. brt their elaborate use On evening
gowns Will probably not De continued beyond the
present point. \ pretty frock for Nee Is OF whit,
mohar trimmed with turquo.se-bluc velvet, AZ.
made KAY by IN OF small gold buttons. Little
fans % velvet IAN from the shoulder seams over
the bust. and disappear IN the armho."s. Ihes"
aye trimmed on ne inside "dse win buttons
There Is a high bDilce-like belt and Aigh Guns OF
the velvet. apparently closed by the buttons.
Dn some - tho new skirts the yoke effect Is
use! This yoke Is generally pointed IN front. ana
NAV continue about %" back or disappear under
tho back gllc's l. is sometimes OF the same stun
used ln tic l,-f o, the skirt AMI untr.mmei but
o,,en.r - Is deliberately braided ami mad" u az
entirely different ro.or II certainly has t"nI'ncy
20 cut 4 wontr on 80 au unpleasant Way, or not
only docs ~ l-rrrls" fhe az parent height tii de-
cr.ase- = below me waist .n". whei" few women
can stand much lp--.
\ rather effective gown Illustrating this idea IS
bul,' ~ a fa"n-coi'r'i stun c2i's'y woven
mohar. the seasons novelty which has been iuliy