Delaware gazette and state journal., 1896-05-14
TIE FASHIONS IN new YORK
Stylish Dresses of Pique and
Duck Cotton.
FLOWERS LAVISH IN MILLINERY
Tulle and Chiffon Also FASH
ionable.

The Width and Cut OF Shirts-Collars Less
Severe Than FOrmsriy-Tan and Brouze
Shoes to be In voguo-Softness of Outline
on the Coiffure.
Special Correspondence Of Gazette and Journal
New York, May 7.-Stylish piquo
or duck cotton dresses are made up in
very severe, close fitting outlines and
while SONS show the inevitable short
jacket opening over a waistcoat or
vest, newer ones arc completed by a
shirt waist laid in plaits, stitched at
the top to tho bust, with corresponding
stitchings at the waist line and having
q turn down collar with turned back
cuffs on the bishop sleeves. Tho regu-
lation belt is of white leather and
mans tic is preferred to one more
feminine. New perCale dresses are
similarly made and with shirt and
other waists great run is made on
narrow belts in leather, gilt or silk. A
high priced gilt belt has both style
and individuality, but the market is
crowded with such low priced speci-
mems that i'll dressed people can easily
afford the purchase and this fact will
iniure them Of course in the estimation
of well.to-do buyers. A black silk
bolt is always IA safe choice or for
morning, nice leather one is safe
from the charge OF being cheap iinery.
In millinery much has been said re-
garding the very lavish use OF flowers,
but as time goes on, equally pro
nounced styles are noticeable in tulle
or chiffon masseG upon wide brims and
almost concealing the low crowns. A
very mia ked specimen shown by a ro.
fined house, is of black Neapolitan
straw OF great width and completely
covered by black tulle, except small
aperture in the centre, whore were
placed two medium sized pink roses.
a half circle of roses to correspond
were undor the brim and very long
strings of two.inch wide pink ribbon
gave finish. Strings continue to he
exceptional, but Of late there is an
effort to introduce them very stylish
little capote shown by "a leading eatab-
liahment, had strings OF narrow black
velvet ribbon, and recently young
society leader drove out wearing a
small hat also tied with narrow black
velvet strings Those Of coored or
white ribbon are seen on piazza hats.
while narrow velvet strings are as yet
limited TO small capotes, the large
fancy shapes being designed for young
people who can afford to show their
throats. Wide brimmed hats trimmed
exclusively with chiffon or tulle,
usually have flowers placed under the
brim.
In dressmaking Lord & Taylor an
nounce much variety as to the width
and cut of skirts. The tendency to
width has reached its limit ard tailor
made suits are often not more than
four or five yards around the lower
edge. Certainly this is great im-
provement and due perhaps to bicycle
| influence. No woman should drag
heavy weights when walking either on
| pleasure or business and skirts ranging
from five to seven yards in width are
nov made up in comparatively light
material and designed for dress occa-
aions. In the arrangement of fulneHs
there is liberty, and while plaits or
gathers are usually still massed at the
back, there is no regulation style and
Il modista may consult the individual
peruliarities Of her customer In some
cases even the fulness il brought we'll
| to the front, as where the front
| breadth is laid in overlapping plaits
on either side with plaits following on
the hips, but these examples are in
| frequent.
Collars are often less severe than for
merly. An overlapping inside collar
may relieve stiffness; lace, net or
chiffon placed at the top, gives soft
| finish and in tho way of collarettes,
iabots or tichus, ingenuity finds per-
| petual exercise in al! manner of en-
| o,asPspeV 11uif.au th.,t uhutI a1nrn thu
neck and shoulders, to say nothing of
fancy vests and waistcoats, the latter
usually Of cloth or satin embroidered
and having that touch of the mannish
which, when softened in womanly
way, becomes all tho more attractive.
Tan shoes aru TO be extremely
fashionable this season and there lie a
revival of bronze, IA pleasing announce
ment, since this style has the be-
coming effect Of black, united with its
own peculiar attractions. Black foot
gear, however, must always be more or
less in vogue and the handsome patent
leather tips that give finish to pointed
toes, go far towards continuance OF
popularity. Evening shoes of course
match dresses and are often in satin,
since kid does not take all colors well.
White shoes for watering places bar
monize with white gloves, but are
lamentably out Of place in city, OK
cept for curriago wear Many black
silk, lisle thread or taffeta gloves arc
shown for the reason that black con
tinues so fashionable for glovoA in
general and the styles named in high
grades, arc warranted not 10 stain the
hands, but this can be tested only
when midsummer heats shall arrive.
Tan shades Of course are safe.
"Mrs. l." In hair dressing, the
most delightful liberty is noticeable
and each woman appears TO do what is
right 10 her own eyes. But every
intseful, and it may be added every
fashionable woman has at least some
sottness or irregularity of outline in
! her coiifure. Locks drawn severely
back from the temples, are abhorrcnI
and really ridiculous, since millinery o.
all kinds ia devised with a Wow {,
: some complement Of hair about Tho
face, oven il parted plainly, such style
however, being in general 80 trying
that it in seldom noticeable. Even thu
l'ompadnur roll IL low, soft and Offer
with huliiness ON the brow.
Rosalind May.
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