davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

stun that shows well In gathers, pre-
ferably satin. This Is arranged so that
the waist opens In V shape in front
end IS drawn down to the line in grace
full folds. The Swiss waist Is made 81
darker stuff, often of black velvet and
neatly bordered with some fine trim
ming. 1t flares open at the bust line
about three inches and reaches a point
at the waist line Some finish at the
waist line, but others extend in f1uted
5asQues. Sleeves of any preferred
shape are made of the material of the
irner waist Caps edged with white
lace and bordered with whatever trim
ming Is used upon the Swiss waist
make an agreeable addition. Such a
combination as this was arranged for
cne member of the party mentioned
above, and it was worn over a skirt of
Dresden silk.
Others look better in q snugly fit
ting waist particularly those of fine
figure. There was a lovely afternoon
dress of pale blue taffeta with a dark
blue figure on it. The skirt needed no
trimming, and had none The snug
waist Tapped slightly to the left side.
with wide revers made of mat white
satin, and the plain stock was of the
same. There was an exquisite tur-
quoise buckle at the throat This gown
Is worthy of reproduction in all sorts
of stuffs, and will be one whose popu-
larity will outiast more than one sea-
son.
A pretty frook for a girl of eighteen
came next. It was OF pale blue fou-
lard with cots as large as a quarter of
a dollar outlined IN dark blue. The
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

trimmings, mingled with velvet and
rich satin duchess, will be the pre-
ferred ribbons. These are to be in
many cases made with an Qyerlay Of
rich lace. Emerald velvet covered
with point de venise makes a superb
hat. One of the pattern hats was i'm
,mense and made of brick red plated
felt, and, by the way, brick red will
be one of the fayorite colors of the
coming season, If one may Judge by
Its present appearance. The hat was
wide and fiat in front and lifted sharp
II III the back. The whole hat was
covered with dull chrysanthemums.
with two short, close tufts Of feathers
at the sides.
Another brick red hat was tipped
downward over the forehead and raised
in the back. There were two black
bows and a full wreath of immense
roses. A regular fiat" shaped felt of
a dark brick red had a wide brin,
dipped deeply over the eyes. On the
outside there were eight large empire
plumes and a velvet bow Of the same
color. I mention all these In line to
show how oft.n one must expect to see
brick red the coming season I was
told that brick in all shadec-and there
are several If one notices-will he worn
In ell things. There are already gloves
In that color among the early samples,
and [ saw among some model gowns
just received from Paris one IN brick
fs% c'oth braided with brown soutache
There was the Gaa'est little velvet
figaro - tie same shadn
l think the zouave js cfct and .sfe
fgarowili have an un2ru uee~ent-d vogue
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

Probably the Empress of Austria spends
more than any other woman in Europe on
class hunter commands almost any price tha
owner likes to ask for it, but let it once hest
tate at fence, or show signs of temper. and
~ Is never ridden again by Her Majesty When
the empress is hunting. and the meet hsnnans
10 be far from her residence, she generally
drives to within short distance of 1t in a
Drougham, wearing ordinary carriage attire
with Her Majesty are two ladies in waiting
whose duty 1t is to see that everything re-
CURED for the empress wear on horseback is
brought by the dressers, who follow in an
drive up to any gentleman's house which han
pens to be in the neighborhood of the meet
when the footman alights and requests that a
room may be placed at Her Majesty's disposal
20 dress 1n Naturally good many people
nave been somewhat taken aback at thus be-
Ing suddenly asked to accommodate an i'm
perlai guest, and this was especially the case
In ireland when the empress was hunting thera
q few years ago.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

soon as this is done the face should
be thoroughly but gently wiped off
With a soft cloth dipped in warm wa
ter. Warm water is very cleansing,
as well as the cream, and by means Of
the two together one can get rid Of
all Impurities. At the same time warm
water has tendency to enlarge the
pores, and this must be guarded
against by rinsing the face in cold wa
ter Immediately after the warm bath.
This also makes the flesh firm and the
skin soft. Following these directions
after exercising and at night before
going to bed will keep any woman's
skin in fine condition, no matter how
much she is exposed to the weather.
~~!Y2ur skin is in such state that you
will be compelled to steam it once or
twice week for about two months,
and Immediately after doing so persist
in the treatment described. You may
make a fatal mistake to bathe your
face with bread and milk, potatoes
and milk, oatmeal, or an other vegeta-
BILE preparation, for in hot weather
such things get into the pores and de-
compose. Doctors advise the use of
mineral powders with babies, instead
Of vegetable, for that very reason. Mag
hesia Is the best known mineral pow
der. Many persons have an idea that
rice powder is utterly harmless. There
never was greater mistake. It is in
furious, as are all farinaceous pow
ders"
II couldn't stand it to put almond
cream or anything else the least bit
greasy on my face when I get up in
the morning. interrupted the athletic
girl. Il could rub 1t on at night, but
not after I'd had my bath in the morn
ing"
Many girls and women feel the
same aversion replied the professional.
in that event I always advise the use
of liquid preparation, amula. 1t
should be applied with a soft cloth or
sponge in the morning, and not only
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

this fall If one may judge by the ad-
vance ideas from abroad. In Paris they
are always ready to jump at anything
that looks pretty and piquant, but in
sober, Staid and more conservative Ger
many 1t is quite the other way. They
are slower to adopt a style and slower
to give 1t up If 1t seems a good one,
and the zouave and figaro are seen in
Berlin now as often as in Paris, and
the prettiest of our fashion designs and
the most feasible and artistic ones come
from Berlin. All this is to prove that
these dressy and coquettish little jack
cts will be worn generally. There is
no set style or shape, only that the
figaro has rounded corners and the zou-
ave has round or pointed as one likes.
Some are made entirely without collars
and others have deep collars and often
revers. That is a matter Of taste. One
very taking short zouave was Of rich
brocaded silk in soft rush green and
cream in color. 1t was square in front
and reached but half way from the arm
size to the belt. There was a slashed
collar, which formed wide revers in
front, made Of rich black silk with a
narrow but rich lace application. This
made a jacket suitable for any gown.
Another was Of salmon colored peau
de sole and was very open in front.
he Jacket was cut With quite Q0Sp
points and hung out loosely from the
figure. There was a wide, pointed re-
vers collar. The collar and jacket both
had bands of black lace insertion laid
over grass green ribbon. This was orig
inally designed to wear over a lilac
taffeta gown, but would be equally pret-
ty over almost anything. Some call
these jackets boleros. 1t makes little
difference what they are called, since
they have come and are so pretty.
While Jackets are popular, there are
their way more fit and suitable. ME
lccse blouse and French WHlsts are ex-
ceedingly becoming: I happened in a.
place where . family party were being
htted YIN outing costumes. One very
eainty and suitable dress for slender
le dy was Of silvery gray siciliene. The
skirt was plainly gored, but gathered
in the back. The sleeves had quite
full puffs to the elbows, and from there
they were tight and piped at the wrists
The waist was cut out in deep V shape,
both back and front, over a guinpe Of
white lace laid over pale green taffeta.
| The waist was gathered very full, and
simply bound on the upper edge, and
all the gathers were drawn to a point
in the back, and the same in front
There was soft sash Of green silk
drawn to sharp point at the waist
line and tied in a little bow in the back
The Swiss waist Is an other dainty
style, and is very becoming to some
persons. The inner waist is Of some soft
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
SUMMER GIRLS RUN A FARM.

There are a good many abandoned farms
on Long Island. The former occupants have
been lured away by the glare of the city, and
have permitted rank weeds to overrun fertile
acres that were once the pride of the agri-
culturist. Four young women of Brooklyn Qt
is now called East New York; thought of the
cultivation of one of these abandoned farms
as means of recreation and profit and acted
upon this idea. The maids who ere DoalS--.- as
farmers are Misses LIME tuIGsssr Grace Van
Slse, May Evans and ioesie Warwick. All are
Es-- vs--s.iH- mad been taken up, discussed and
-sDandoned before Miss Eldert thought of the
abandoned farm. AS soon as she suggested
the idea 1t made hit. In most instances the
hardest thing to find is the farm but here it
was the easiest, and parental consent was
the greatest obstacle.
John F. Eldert. the father of Miss Eidert.
owns farm in the old South road. near
Aqueduct- For several years the homestead
mad been vacant because it had the reputa-
ton OF being haunted" The reputation only
adventure. The farm Is lonely and spooky
, enough In broad daylight, but at night the
situation is warranted to make the bravest
OF young ladies' shiver with fright.
1t is situated on the edge of the meadows
that skirt Jamaica bay. Uncle john Eldert
once owned them. He lived the life of a re-
cluse and died among his books. His library
contained 5000 books at his DEATH ''UncIe
John s. ghost Is the specter of the house on
How the girls got the consent of their par-
ents Is a mystery to all but themselves They
wheedled and coaxed as only pretty girls
girls know how and when she wants anything
IL took week to make the house habitable
AS soon as they took possession they began
to make their nest comfortable. They sue
ceeded In transforming the old farmhouse
into cozy retreat.
AT first all young men were barred, but
tnat ruling has become practically dead
letter. The progress Of the callers was like
the march of the army worm. First the
renee was passed, then a line just within
the gate, until finally the last resting place on
the porch was reached. Agriculture, pure
and simple, was to be the object Of the girls,
but finally they compromised on raising
weeds In the front garden. Now that they
are settled and having such a jolly time
OF It In their retreat, they intend to remain
until their crops are harvested In the fall
The girls are near neighbors in the Cy-
press Hills section of the city. The Elderts
i've at Jamaica avenue and Dresden street.
the Warwicks on the opposite corner and the
Evanses and Van Sises at Jamaica avenue
and Logan street. The girls deny that they
are new women. They are just plain, old
Iasnloned lovable girls out for good time,
and are having it.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

waist was blouse style with deep
pointed girdle Of white cloth, with a
sprung basque skirt attached. This
as well as the belt was tailor stitched
The V vest and wide revers collar
were also of white cloth, trimmed with
white buttons. The blouse waist was
Of the foulard. The sleeves were small
puffs, with white cuffs and lace frills
all ending at the elbow
A little girl of twelve belonging to the
party had a charming frock of tufted
etamine, cream and chocolate brown
The skirt was full blouse opening in
front over a plated silk vest. Lace in
sertion across the top and fiat lace
bands over the shoulders brought 1t
square across the throat. It looked
cool and dainty. The sash Of brown
surah was tied in wide bow in the
back and had fringed ends.
All the lovely linens, batistes and
lawns are down next to nothing in
price. There are several new designs in
grass cloths plaided and corded, and
there are some very dainty and new
ripple batistes. There are blue and
white and blue on blue organdies on
purpose for those who like to have
fresh new thin gowns in the last days
of summer. Mate Leroy.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
softens and nourishes the skin, but

softens and nourishes the skin, but
whitens IT,"
well, I won't use that, then" put
in the young woman. 'sThe idea of any
woman trying to bleach her com
plexion when brown skins and ruddy
cheeks are all the rage"
''Oh, IL you won't, you won't, that's
all there is about that" answered the
professional, "but you would attain
the result you desire sooner if you
would do all that I tell you. Whatever
you do, avoid washing your face in cold
or very hot water after exercising, and
never let anyone prevail on you to use
vegetable balm or powder. Avoid
vaseline, cold cream and such things
as you would the plague. They contain
vegetable matter. Cold cream clogs
the pores Of the skin until they are
practically hermetically sealed and it is
impossible for any impurities to escape
Vase1ine produces a growth OF down
Here comes an athletic girl now who
came to me seven weeks ago. Her
skin was in just the condition that
yours Is and from the very same
causes"
do you see that I've done anything
for her?" she concluded as tall girl
entered.
Why, your complexion is simply per-
feet" exclaimed she who was seeking
treatment to the one who had taken it.
in 2 burst Of enthusiasm.
Yes. and only to think" answered
the other with a pleased smile, 1T was
so dreadful from exposure to the wind.
sun. rain and surf when 1 came here
that I was ashamed to wear rarty
gown. Now, she added, with a
triumphant smile. 81 delight to wear
the daintiest and most trying full dress
gowns. Are you going to be treated ?''
We'll. I guess am. Your face set
ties my case. III take the first treat
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
GOTHAM FASHIONS
MATE LEROY DESCRIBES SOME
HATS OF MOST WONDERFUL
DESIGN.
NEW PATTERNS FROM PARIS.
LARGE AND ELAB0RATELY TRIM
MED HEADGEAR WILL PRE-
VAIL.
NEW PATTERNS FROM PARIS.
zoUAvE AND FIGARO JACKETS.
Popular notwithstanding Outing
COstumes-FaII and Winter
Styles.

NEW YORK, Aug. 6.-I have just
come from a place where / saw a new
model hat, with flowers upon it stand
ing just twelve inches above the crown
The crown was a sugar loaf peak with
narrow turn up brim. These flowers
were velvet clover blossoms and leaves
In their purple beauty. The hat was
between red and purple, and there was
a drapery of light purple velvet around
the crown, held in by smaller tufts of
glover
Another model hat was of dark pur-
pie felt, the brim fiat and round The
edge was crimped all the way around.
The crown was fiat, but all around that
there was an outstanding plating of
purple and black striped taffeta In
the front there was a twisted bow Of
shell pink velvet, and on the left side
there was bunch of eglantine roses in
velvet, the shadings of the leaves being
exquisite. This bunch stood over a
foot above the brim. Mingled with the
plating were small sprays of the roses
and leaves. 1t is a new departure to
take spring flowers to decorate fall
hats. The sugar loaf shape is as ugly
a thing in itself as can be imagined.
The brim curls up closely, and the hat
of the head.
There was another one, also in dark
red crimped felt. In the front and on
each side was little silk pompon in
the same shade. On the right side of
the front was an immense bow Of
maize satin duchesse Three loops
eight inches high stood up and two
five inches high stood out There was
a nf ho oil
and plating fastened in the center
in form of a bow. This was all the
trimming, but, dear knows, 1t was
enough.
The model hats, as a rule. are re-
1larkable for their height and brilliant
Solors. The mob cap shape seems to
OBTAIN among these new importatiOns
The models are brought over thus
early, and are copied with and without
variations to be ready for the Septem-
Der openings. The hats Of history have
been despoiled of their prettiest fancies
and will soon fill the show windows.
L asked the importer what he
thought the prevailing styles would be,
and he replied that no one could tell
with certainty, but he thought large
and picturesque hats of velvet, with
many feathers, would take the lead.
The soft beaver felt, with wide and
flexible brins will be seen, topped with
many plumes. These will follow the
Gainsborough and cavalier styles. ar.Ss
will be in black, white and brosTn So
far those are all the COLES produced,
Besides them the English walking hat
In felt, beaver End silk beaver viii be
a styIsh, and doubtless popular hat.
AS~eS a becoming shape for elderly or
middle-aged ladies as well as for young
faces, which will add to it's popularity.
said fa ell
modes these walking hats Will be quite
elaborately trimmed. Ostrich plumes
will be the feathers Of the season, with
few quills and few marabout
plumes for evening wear The aigret
will be there, too, to raise its delicate
f1bers above the rest of the trimming.
to give it lightness and grace Taffeta
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
Fruit Salads.

Fruit salads are delicious when they are
properly made. They are one of those dIshea
whose apparent simplicity invites the anna
teur with disastrous results. They should
In the first place, be very cold. This does
not mean cutting up bananas fresh from the
fruiterer's stall with oranges, lines, pires
ETC.. that have displayed themselves for hours
in the heated air at the same place. tossine
them together, deluging with wine or liquof
clapping them on ice for fifteen minutes, and
then serving as a salad. The fruit should
be thoroughly chilled by being kept long
time in the icebox. The spirits should be
used sparingly to bring out the flavor Of the
fruit rather than dominate 1t. At this mo-
ment the markets present a tempting array
Of fruits that combine well into salads. One
made from slices Of pineapple, big oxheart
cherries, stoned and divided once, two BAN
anas. three pears, peeled and sliced, the
whole dressed with orange juice, into which
the juice Of j, lime has been squeezed and
sprinBlsd with a Tablespoon ful of Jamaica
rum, is especially appetizing.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
After Sea Bathing
Use
cuticura Soap.
For Summer Rashes
IrritatiOnS
Ci1afings and
Inflammations
Nothing
So Cooling
So Soothing
and
So Refreshing.

After the sea bath. cycling golf, tennis.
riding. or ath etics, bath with CUTiCURA
SOAP Is Indispensable. IL prevents chatins,
redness and roiighnrss OF the skin, sootheS
inflammation aiiays irritat tons. and when
fol wed ~ geutle amounting with CUTI-
CnltA tolntmentl. the great skin cure, proves
nlnSt brnehtiai In relieving tired. lamed, in
2 tanned. strained muscles.
Sold throughout the world. British depot:
F Newhe.y K Sons. !. X in, Edward-st., Lon
don fI,ter Drug ami Chem. Corp. Sole
l'rurs. Boston. u. 5. A.
AN About the Skln." "a pages. post
tree.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

For afternoon tea many hostesses dress
most eiaborately and. On top OF all they tie
daIntily trimmed with ribbon and rufies.
The lawn apron depends much for its
beauty upon its fullness. ANY attempt to
skimp' the cloth will be rewarded by the
scant appearance common to kitchen aprons.
The lawn should be gathered upon the band
and scratched" after the old process, until
1t is hat, even and regular as dress woke
pretty way to trim an apron is with
small ruffles set up and down the apron
At the head of each can be a bow of black
velvet ribbon or pink or green. A band of
the same, with e bow upon the front and
ends in the back adds to the appearances
Of the apron. So. too, the small rufied ends.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
LATEST FAD I'M DANCING, \,
Said to BE Most Bewitchine- Moved
1aent for waI<zor.

.,1as.1.s,--. 1sH Ma4szsTss iA
Ulmer Park. N, T., h showing the
latest novelty In dances-the tanden1
waltz. There is no more slow, ianguofs
GUS dancing on 81 hapdkerchtsfs spaces
The young man who held his paftnel
date The tandem craze has struck
the waltz. The TANDEM, has it's adj
vantages. In II both the girl and
young man move In the same directioa
man holding put hts hands and the Riri
tucking her head under has chin, She
gives him the cold shouIdeN For tha
girl whose only charm ts the e4opine
lines OF the back Of the nsclf and the
fetching little looks tickling ths white
nape this is especially comfortable.
The girl stands back to her partner
who holds her right hard extended The
girls left hand is put behind her. This
does away with what prtm people have
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09
ment right now." turning to the pro@
fessional, and so she did.
Her Furniture Built for weigh,

Washington Post.
moons given by Mrs. cleveland al her residenc
in Madison avenue, New York, shortly after
she had stepped temporarily from her position
as nrst lady OF the land. Among the furni-
ture in that puritanical-looking drawing-roo-
where Mrs. Cleveland dispensed a charmiI ,
hospitality and won the favor Of the exclusi !.
set In New York society, was q specimen Il
those tiny gold-painted chairs that are ever
warning you they are not meant to be s.
upon, but which are dear to the feminiI
heart: A friend OF mine tells me that on til )
occasion In question he was about to sit upon
this one, when, as his avoirdupois was &C
siderable, he looked around for chair M Z
suitable to his dimensions. Mrs. CleveIa !
command, said: "Oh, don't be afraid All
the furniture in this house is made for hes n
people" This good-natured reference to i sI
husbands adiposity evoked smile from iht
gentleman. and, as every stout man thinks tnt
other man is stouter than himself he felt q
sense Of security in accepting the proferel
seat.
The Saint Paul globe., 1896-08-09

called unmitigated temptations of the
waltz. There is no chance for the
young man to clasp a girls slender
waist. Races are not dangerously
close, and eyes-oh! eyes can't look in
to other eyes any kind of tender looks.
The tandem" takes all the flavor out
or Strauss waltzing. However, 1t is one
OF the distinct novelties. Here's one ad-
vantage-the tandem waltz Will never
ruin the back Of the waist Of girls
dress.
The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1896-10-27
FAIR HAVEN NEWS.

An attempt was made early Sunday
morning to burglarize the residence of
Fred H. Hemingway on Center street.
Thieves forced open the cellar door,
but were heard and frightened away.
No property was stolen.
Smith T. Bradley, the florist, is pre-
pairing to open his new office build
ing on Atwater street with a flower
show, to be held in about two weeks.
He will display about 500 chrysanthe-
mum plants and many roses.
A private letter received by Fair
Havener from friend in Chicago, con-
tains the following concerning the po-
lftical outlook in the middle west:
"Hurrah for Mckinley! Illinois as
solid as rock-100,000 sure. Chicago
is simply coverd by flags old glory
and everywhere you read Sound money
and prosperity The pictures of McKin-
ley and Hobart greet one at every step,
both in business districts and residence
parts of the city One never sees a
Bryan picture or the motto, free sill
YER All middle western states sure;
as in so, so in SO. The honor of our
country will be protected and preserv-
ed"
1t is stated that as result of much
correspondence between eastern and
western pisci-culturists on the subject
of oyster yielding and particularly re-
garding the yield and flavor of eastern
oysters the United States fish conn
mission will, in a few days, have con-