Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-04-25

ton jewels and oriental Weaves that can
be mustered together in one costume.
The modern belle takes a very practical
view Of the question, and, says she, IF
lilies are better, bring them on, and We'll
have them too" whereupon she goes to
combining with all the splendor of the an
clients any number CT horticultural beau
ties, either woven in silks and fine linens or
standing up in posy beds on top Of her
head.
The linens are growing finer and more
gorgeous with each Importation. The new
est are almost gauzy in their texture, and
have rose patterns scattered through them.
These are used for fancy waists for after
loon and evening wear. They are made
over tinted silks and trimmed with Dresden
ribbons.
Grass linen waists are the prettiest of
the shirt waists, as well as the coolest.
Plain ones can be bought at very reason
able figure. They are made of plain linen
with collar and cuffs of the same. A little
more elaborate than these are the plain
linen waists with white collar and cuffs.
Then come the linens embroidered in pink
or blue silk sprigs. The most elaborate
shirt waists are made Of embroidered linen
with collars and cuffs of the same. These
are very expensive. being marked $7.25 for
the early spring price, but they will surely
be cheaper little later in the season.
Dainty waists are made of dimity woven
In Persian patterns of pink and green and
lavender tints beautifully blended. The
correct stiff collar is white linen for all
kinds of waists, but if this is not becoming
to the wearer a choker of Dresden ribbon
or any pretty shade Of silk may be sub
stituted.
Sleeves are large enough to be COOL
whatever else the prognosticators may have
to say about them. For shirt waists the
bishop sleeve is the coolest, therefore it is
best and most popular. These sleeves are
quite short, just reaching below the elbow,
where they are gathered into wide band
or turn-back cuff.
About Silk Waists.
Silk waists are being sold very cheap
so cheap that it hardly pays to buy the silk
and make one even when one does the sew
ing herself A plain silk waist of a pale
green tint with fine black stripe cost only
1915. The sleeves were loose and cool, ard
were gathered into a narrow cuff that open
ed at the back of the arm. The collar was
high, but turned over about an inch all
around, opening in front. An ingenious de-
vice to conceal the fastening of the collar
was little band across the front that
hooked underneath the turned down edge.
This waist looks cool and spring-like and
can be worn with comfort until midsum-
mer
Other silk waists that are darker can be
bought cheap, but they haven't the air of
spring about them that is the charm of the
lighter waist.
The fashion of wearing waists and sep
arate skirts has come to be a settled habit
with business women, so much so that +.
Will take more than one season of Louis
XIV and XVI Jackets to displace them.
Probably the Louis waist will be combin-
ed with the others as outside jackets, but
shirt waists end silk waists will stay with
US Tor ordinary wear. The average bust
ness woman does not possess more than
one complete dress in her whole wardrobe.
sometimes she freshens up her costume
with new waist, sometimes with a skirt
or only skirt binding. until it very soon
gets TO be- like the little boys jack-knife
which had had six new blades and seven
new handles, but was still the same jack
knife.
The new skirts are not black except a
stray one Of brilliantine here and there
Black brilliantine is very cool and light and
serviceable, and Is well adapted for sum-
mer weather. Checked cheviots and mixed
weaves are, however, the latest approved
materials for skirts. These admit of out
side Jackets to match, thus making very
stylish suits at small cost A very good
scheme is to buy the skirt ready made then
match 1t in material and have the Jacket
made to tit by ones own dressmaker.
To Soften the Eject.
Fancy fronts of linen embroidery with
collars and cuffs to match finish off a.
Jacket suit very nicely, but any lace front
may be worn with any kind of material
Indeed, a suit is often entirely finished up
with seemingly nothing more needed to
adorn it, when the modiste insists upon
"a little fall Of lace under the chin, lust
to soften the effect little.
A pretty trimming which takes the place
Of and Is g little newer than the lace col
larette, is the Dutch yoke" 1t is made
Of embroidery, chiefly, either white or lin
en-, and consists Of two straps Of insertion
passing over the shoulders to the waist,
something like pair of suspenders, ex-
cept that the ends come closer together at
the waist Straps of insertion join the sus-
penders at the bust and at the waist front
and back. The suspenders and the strap at
the bust form q sort Of square neck that
is edged all around with linen embroidery,
and the outer edges Of the suspenders are
trimmed with double rows Of embroidery
over the shoulders. The insertion is laid
over ribbon, which shows through and is
made into small bows at the waist back
and front. The ribbon can be removed
when tie yoke is done up, and new tint
substituted in its place, according to the
color Of the dress with which it Is worn.
the Dutch yoke Is pretty style for plump,
round damsels, as might be expected from
its name. To make one would require about
three yards Of insertion and of ribbon. and
from two and a half to three of embroid-
cry. One can buy pretty grass linen in
sertion for eighteen cents a yard and the
embroidery need not cost more than TWEEN
ty-fve cents, and at this rate the woke
may be made for about $1.75. To buy 1t
or four dollars.
A white embroidery yoke without ribbon
sells for ntnety-eght cents.
Headgear That Costs.
In the kingdom Of hats and gowns of
ceremony, as the French say, it is almost
dangerous to enter. Here is where all pre-
vio;isly formed resolutions respecting econ
omy are flung to the winds and one
plunges to the very depths of ones purse
for the double eagle that is to be given In
exchange for a-butterfly. Perhaps 1t ia
right and natural that woman should
spend more money on her headgear than
upon any other part Of her costume The
hat Is the frame for the face and it should
be Of style intended to bring out the best
points OF ones face no matter what the
cost may be.
The shapes are In general Of two kinds
the turban and the fiat hat, with broad brim
that turns up in the back. It is a trying
style for girls with round faces because
they can find solace In neither Hats with
Tam O'Shanter crowns are quite common.
Colored straws are very fashionable and the
favorite tints are bright yellow, green and
violet, either in solid colors or In combinae
ton with black.
In trimmings the popular flowers seem to
be roses red and violets blue" only the
roses may be blue and the vfolets red. with.