Omaha daily bee., 1896-08-30

49, NL - 49,
velvet, and at the height OF the knee are
two more, the lower one also Of black velvet.
An accordion plated bolero, closed In front.
falls over n wide belt OF black satin. The
sleeve top is formed OF three overlapping
RULES, draped to cross each other, the
lower one of velvet. Hat of faX-colored
MANILA straw turned up toward one side, in
stead Of directly behind, as has been the
sale fashion. and trimmed with black vel
vet ribbon, black quilts. A large rhine stone
buckle directly in front, and red and orange
flowers.
AUTUMN SUGGESTIONS.
The readers attention is called %particu-
larly to the above toilet. as it has in II
some elements for autumn. Gowns will be
made like this in cloth. and the materials
and colors in the hat are the latest word
in millinery.
A toilet that had much success was OF
black trimmed with bands Of black guipure
laid over orange. The material was
etamine. A wide band of the trimming ran
down the front Of the blouse and down the
front Of the shirt to the foot. Then the
remainder OF the blouse was covered with
narrow bands of the guipure running round.
The top of the sleeve was formed of two
double rufles. one falling over the other
and both striped round like the blouse.
Manila straw hat trimmed with black vel
vet and flowers.
An idea that has been popular all summer
is illustrated In a gown of sevres blue veil
ing trimmed with narrow white soutache
braid. The upper part Of the blouse to the
top Of the neckband and out to the very
edge of the rolling collar, and the skirt to
the knees are covered with bands running
round. The braid does not go directly on
the blouse, but on a yoke collar with
epaulettes attached. the whole making one
rounded outline over the sleeves. / have
seen at one of the a model
like this for autumn carried out In green
cloth and brown soutache.
Plaids and checks continue their trium-
plant career. Nothing is in more favor
with chic women. The checks are in black
and white only; If color is used something
is lost from the style. This something is
simplicity. There is little now to say as to
their makeup. They absorb quantities OF
black velvet ribbon, and black, white and
silver braid. Some in silk made for cere-
monious wear are trimmed with plaitings
of black chiffon. Thus a checked silk skirt
has three nounces of black chiffon and the
blouse Is covered with the chiffon.
Some of the new jackets have faring
cuffs at the wrist. They are not very wide,
but they stand almost straight out, and are
slashed in two places. Very few pointed
revers are seen; they are for the most part
all straight and run down to the edge OF
the jacket.
Very much admired are gowns Of black
foulard Powered with a large pattern. They
are made up without a vestige of trimming,
the pattern being quite decoration enough.
The skirt Is shirred round the hips and
hangs very lull, dnu II piouSS 10 Al
or else has some full yoke drapery. The
idea is to cut the material as little as pos
sible. The style Of these gowns is In their
simplicity. They are considered ceremonl-
Gus enough for dinner and evening wear.
The neck is made high. as is that OF all but
the ball gowns at present, but the sleeves
may stop at the elbow if desired.
MATINEES AND TEA GOWNS.
More things than the long travelling cloak
take their cue from the loose box coat. The
morning gown used to be fitted behind ana
belted in front. but now it touches the figure
nowhere but at the shoulders and hangs
loose all round without suggestion OF belt.
Such gowns either are accordion or sue
plated. or else they have plaits only In the
middle Of the back and front, according to
the material. Thin ones are made OF ecru
batiste and of light woods printed like the
foulards of this season in Japanese manner,
white on blue, white on black, red on white.
Very delicate ones are Of dotted SWISS mus
lin over color. They fall from a yoke and the
loose sleeve reaches over the elbow. Warmer
ones are of flannel. | have seen one OF gray
flannel, side plated, and trimmed with
bands of narrow black velvet ribbon, a clus-
ter of bands near the foot, another part way
up and a third just below the black VelVet
yoke. Square epaulettes Of velvet fall out on
the sleeve. carrying out the line of the yoke.
And another of plaid annel In which there
is much white and yellow, trimmed also
with black velvet.
A more formal style of house dress is
made with a Garibaldi blouse and a full
skirt in plaits or shirs. The blouse Is
gathered on the shoulder under the strap
stitched down over the seam. a stitched
box plat is down the middle and the
blouse droops over the belt all round. IL
should be made in soft material such as
for a simple breakfast gown or for a rich
afternoon recention gown at home, according
to the material used. and there Is considera-
BILE chance to vary the design. For afternoon
n ,,ntty yppn hnc tho glirt nf black liberty
silk printed with a cashmere pattern ana a
blouse Of scarlet chiffon. Over the blouse
may be worn a sleeveless bolero OF black
velvet. Another has the skirt OF red foul
ard and the blouse Of cream chiffon, with
belt and collar band Of black velvet.
Gowns having a similar effect are made
also in one piece on a princesse lining
This permits the addition OF some long
lines running from the shoulders down.
One thus made has the skirt OF brown
China crepe figured with white, and the
blouse OF white crepe. over this are lald
loose fronts running from the shoulders
down to the foot, of the brown lined with
white; and on the back, in order to carry
over the shoulders and complete the line OF
brown made by the loose fronts. is ar
ranged a bolero effect, really a big box plat
of the brown lined with the white. that
falls loose to below the armholes, and rises
high in the neck to form a standing collar.
The effect Of this is exquisite.
Short house jackets are loose also and
straight all around. A pretty one of baize
flannel in side plaits Is trimmed with a
cluster OF black velvet ribbon, running
around, beginning at the depth OF a yoke
and continuing around under the arms, each
band ending behind with a bow, which makes
a row OF bows down the middle OF the back.
The high collar band is clrcled with the
same ribbon, with bows behind. and bands
and bows are at the elbow. Other flannel
jackets are double breasted and plain, and
have an applique on the edge OF flannel, in
a contrasting color, cut in a fanciful pat
tern. Thus, green on dark blue. dark vio-
let on rose. But such trimming is difficult
for the amateur. In another style is a jacket
OF chamois-colored cloth, trimmed with mar
row white ribbon. The fronts are open.
with straight revers all the way down, and
the revers are striped across with the rib
bon, each ribbon ending In a tiny ~rosette.
The same trimming covers the turn down
collar and the lower part OF the sleeves.
Among the jackets in silk faced molleton, an
effective one is made OF gray blue. lined
throughout with black silk. The collar is
faced with the black, and the sleeve. made
in a loose pun to the elbow and ending in
a rufle. has the rufie lined with black.
II is finished with blue ribbons.
CHILDREN'S DRESS.
Following the taste for long lines, chill
dren of both sexes are wearing, as has been