The morning times., 1896-03-08
10 PHRlSIENNKS IN SILK WAISTS OK
American Grand Danes Make
Modistes Wealthy.

sleeves were shirred in four rows three
quarters of an inch apart. At the waist
line all the fulineSs of the bodice was
brought down in little plaits and worn
under the skirt very narrow belt OF
brown suede silk topaz clasps held il.
The collar was draped and very high,
with very full rosette effects on each
side. Another sombcr travelling waist
was of dark blue silk with design of
corn flowers worked i'll subdued
colors. on each side OF full, broad
chiffon vest were two strips of dark blue
velvet three inches wide, ornamented with
rows of small blue steel buttons. These
velvet strips extended 10 the bottom of the
short full basqucs.
AT the front the lasqucs Were cut away
to sharp points, and when they flared
showed a lining of corn-ColOred taffcta.
The sleeves were full coat sleeves, tight
from the elbow down to the wrists, and very
long. They were trimmeda the backseams
with pointed strips Of velvet and rows of
blue steel buttons.
The collar was a tail turn-tlown collar of
the blue velvet. The crush girdIe of the
velvet was rather broad, with a pointed
effect at the front, and on the left side flu
ished with a bow and cut steel buckle.
This waist was worn under q short braided
cape Of blue broadCloth with a godct skirt
OF the same material. With a jacket of
cape that is easily slipped off and on, silk
waist is the most comfortable thing one can
choose for travelling.
The very newest things in evening bOdices
are Of white satin, with coverings OF re-
naissance lace.
The dark gossamer texture of this lace,
with its rich designs in white applique ef-
feet lend such a softening air to white satin
that a great many people have adopted II
who were obliged on account of its unbe-
comlngncss to avoid white satin bodices
The most attractive one that was shown
me was a decollete bodice of white satin
with a full blouse covering of the renaiS-
sance lace. Tie sleeves were full short
puffs of the satin, with numberless narrow
ruffles Of black chiffon put on lengthways,
so that the satin was entirely covered.
at The very low w. neck there was finish
of a narrow standing frill of the chiffon
and Il full bow of white satin at the left
side.
The girdle was of crushed white satin.
Long white gloves were to be worn with
this toilet. The bodice was an order
of Mrs. Lorillard Spencer. a rich waist
for the informal family dinner was OF
light yellow mousseline de sole, with
orange velvet trimmings. The mousseline
de sole was put on very full and fastened
across one side to give The effect of q
draped surplCe front. In the back the
Tulncss was gathered down into the girtile.
There was q short, round Bolero jacket
OF orange velvet, embroidered in gold and
studded with amethysts and topaZcs, that
fell about eight inches from the shoulder
The collar was a high turnover collar OF
the embroidered velvet, opened q trifle at
the front to show a iabot of old cream lace.
The sleeves were very fullruffs to the elbow,
with a fall OF lace finishing them.
stiff, narrow girdle of the yelv ct,
slightly pointed in front, finished this bodice
Nearly all these new creations are for
American queens. They pay so extrava.
fantly for them and are SO lavish in their
praise of the dressmaker's taste that the
Partisan modiste eXefts herself stupendous.
ly for them, and is sleepIess until she has
combined color in a way that can be called
new" Looking over an order book Of a
French dressmakc is like studying the list