davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Nme. Eames
In Wourning
RECEIVES IN A WHITE ROBE OF
CAMEL'S HAIR.
Lady Randolph Churchill's Mod
iste Gradually Carrying Her
From Black to Violet.

What matters it to madame IL the weather
continues cold and raw and nipping? It's
only her little retrousse n ose that is exposed
To the elemeDts-and even that is coated,
coated in powder-white as erInne and
the little glimpse we can get OF mazda mes
face shows that it is as white as any Pier
rots. Q
Fashion DEGREES this year that mad
ame's face shall be colorless, but her lips
must be red, red, red in full Cupid's bows.
IL she wants to paint them that way, but
she must get enough paint on, and paint
OF the crimsonest hue.
Then with hair frizzed and draped even
to her eyebrows, and one of the high "tOurs
de cou'' madame need not fear to drive
against the sbarpest wind-her face is
literally protected from the frosty air.
TO SEE CAPES.
The other day ] had ards to a display
OF the newest creations OF a fashionable
couturier. And because ] had heard that
at the tours de cou there We're always the
newest and da intiest to be seen in all Paris,
] made an especial point of going. But
] purposely planned my visit there very
late in the afternoon, when the rush sh ould
have ceased, and ] would have madame
for a comfortable tete-a-tete after her
busy day ] climbed stairs and stairs OF
hard polished wood in the great building
and arrived at unadam's door just as he was
bidding bon jour" to a group OF her very
swell clientele.
When told madame how mu ch / wanted
to see all of her lovely creations and write
of them to America. she was more than hos
piable. She called n her chic little model
from an adjoining room 10 begin trying on
again all of her newest creations noted
most of all the charming confections Of
chiffon and ribbon and lace. Some were 10
be worn over coats in lieu offur collars, some
were To be worn with low-neck evening
bodices. and some OF these dainty chiffon
-reations were TO be worn with walking
dress to add a n air OF festivity when the oc-
casion demanded and the time for making
toilet was limited.
BLACK AND WHITE.
The little model looked like a veritable
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Chinese "sacredn Phys.

A city magistrate was called upon several
days ago to decide whether the Chinese
play LOO Y9en Pc" is a sacred concert a
comic opera. He couldn't do it. and he
adjourned the case. There were Cinnamon
there prepared TO regard the play as any
thing at all, from an oratorio to a boxing
contest, according to the requirements OF
the law. While Yvette Guilbert dcsecrated
a metropolitan opera EUGse with her ''sa-
cred" songs the other night the minions OF
Mulberry street swooped down on the
Chinese house in Doyer street, and bagged
the whole shooting match for breaking the
Sunday law by giving performance that
was not the least bit sacred. BILLY"
Fales, WHO few years ago wrote some en-
tcrtaining letters from Annoy, China, testi-
fled to the intensely sonibre character of
the piece, which was written by sort of
Chinese Iiisen, but tho court didn't seem to
agrce with him, and the chances are that
there will not be any more Sunday the
atricals In Chinatown until Boss Platt
gives the town new deal.
The morning times., 1896-01-26

In the market than gros grain. but she does
incidentals that neither make nor unmake
the fashion. Her idea is a conservative one;
1t is not to differ, but to conform.
FASHION NOT CONCLUSIVE.
If you go into the shops of Paris that
cater to refined clientele you viii be
astonished at the simplicity of the garments.
1t is not fashion that is conyulsive, 1t is the
pattern sellers, that wish to keep up
steady market for novelties. Tounderstand
this should be to save both the appearance
and the purse.
Made for travel down to Cannes, q navy
blue gown with cape. The skirt is stitched
and the bodice is jacket. several inches
longer than the waist, fitted behind and
loose and very open in front, over a drll
old rose taffeta blouse. Straight revers
begin halfway up the front and run into a
collar of the same width. The edges are all
stitched. The jacket is lined with black
Silk Tne blouse has wide plait, with a
cluster of fine tucks down the middle OF it
and plated ruffic on each edge.
The cape is long enough TO cover the
jacket, Is round, and is in three overlapping
ruffles, the ruffles standing out fuIl at
the edge, and all lined and stitched. There
is n high turnover collar and in front q
large rosette OF blue satin ribbon with long
ends. Not n touch or trimming, not n trace
of fur is about this dress, but its style is in
its cut and its simplicity, and its style is
great. The hat is 4 black velvet sailor with
a rpsette and pompon at one side toward
the 'front.'.
Nade equally FOR wear at Cannes, black
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Fine Embroideries
In the Wash
SOME HINTS ON LAUNDERING
DAINTY LINEN.
Follow These Directions and
Your Treasures Are Safe
From Ruin.

It is necessary before the real work OF
washing commences to have the embrOid-
cries themselves finished according TO GER
tain rules OF neediework, if the former is
to be a success. Tbe.few following hints
will be OF assistance to any one who not
only iaunders lfer own embroiderles, but
does the needlework also:
Many ladies prefer to wash and press
their own pieces for table decoration, for
unless the work is done by IA skillful laun-
dress they are apt TO be ruined In color
or stretched out of shape in the ironing.
First, only the best wash silks should
be used, and il is a mistake TO use very
strong coiUring on pure white linen, as
even the palest shades show darker than
one thinks after being massed IN solid on
the white background.
Never use knot, as each one viii show
plainly after the piece is pressed, no mat
ter how well IL may be disguised while
working.
Also lever cross from one part of a
design TO another, leaving a connecting
thread; rather break 1t Off ard COM
mence again. This may seem an un-
necessary precaution. as with fine 800
silk and rather heavy material it would
not be liable to show on the right side:
but The habit once formed is hard TO
overcome, and III sheer lawn or any other
transparent material is used, the effect
will be very bad. There is also another
reason for avoiding this method OF work
ing, aud that is that it gives very
careless appearance to the wrong side of
the designs, and really artistic and
skillful worker will take pride in seeing
how difficult it is TO distinguish the two
sides. This may sound incredible. but there
are maDrpieces which require close handling
TO determine the difference.
When the embroidery is complete, put the
whole piece right into a suds formed of
tepid water and the purest white soap and
wash carefully, rubbing the soap on the
parts of the design where the stamping
stiIi remains distinct, and work it between
the fingers till all trace of the pattern is
gone from the linen, treating in the same
way any parts of the linen which have be-
come especially soiled. Use care not to
have the water very hot, as even the best
silks, in some shades, will run a little If
put into anything like boiling water.
Rinse thoroughly OF the soap and wiring
out gently as much of the water possible.
stretch into shape, fold evenly and roll
up ready for pressing. This should be
done at once, before it has time 10 dry,
as If ironed when wet, the dressing OF the
linen is preserved, and the stitches are set
in place, so that any number of subsequent
washings viii not destroy the effect.
On a perfectly clean cloth over a thin
The morning times., 1896-01-26

with a great Marie Antoinette fichu OF
white chiffon that falls to the hem OF her
skirt.
A sleeveless jacket OF black chiffon.
with q long. square yoke OF Jetted lace
and fur, full ruffies of black chiffon at
the arm-bOles can be worn over q passe
silk waist. and win be sure to lend an
air OF wonderful festivity. The fuied
chiffon is-gathered in baby waist fash
ion at the waist-line with girdIe of
black satin, and high black satin stock
collar finishes this dainty little affair ut
the throat.
LADY CHURCHILL'S GAYETY.
Lady Randolph Churchill affects pur-
pie now. His iordship has been dead
just a year. and already her iadyship
is reported engaged" and TO an Ameri-
can, none other Than w. Waldorf Astor.
I hear.
the purples and vio!eis. There is q mar
row borderiand between the two coiors,
and over this border the French nodiste
carries her patrons go deiicaieiy and de-
liciously that none suspect it except she.
Her Iadyship OF Churchill will be in
the pinks by Easter, am sure.
The other day at fashionable mat
iDee musicar' Mrs. -, OF Chicago,
who was stopping only a few days in
Paris on her way to Nice, was seen III
a most becoming gown 1t was made
after a model or Raudnilz, and was the
most charming morning gown 1 have
seen. the short jacket, with enormous
braided revers and great coat sleeves,
barely touched the waist-line.
The skirt lifted tiSnt at the hips, but
fIared, so as TO make ten-yaTd around
skirt at the bottom. For everyday
occasions there was a richly braided vest
Of the same material. at the musicale
Mrs. lghtened up her rather somber
gown with a most exquisite Chiffon front
1t was opaiescent Chiffon, pislted IN very
fine accordion plaits and confined to the
waist with a narrow belt OF paillete rides
cent and high, straight collar OF the same.
Falling over this coiar was a ruff OF ex-
quisite old lace, and two lace jabots fell at
the edge of the jacket TO the waist hne. The
stout French women appreciate tue becoin-
ingness OF the loose, full bodice, that can be
worn, too, with such advantage 10 their
taller, thinner sisters.
The Marie Louise reticuies adorn the
windows now or all the smart shops. They
are made of dainty light silk for evening
wear, and for shopping they are often OF
the same material as the gown But there
were more of the black silk ones TO be found
everywhere.
The tendency of the sleeves Is to droop
lower still. The fullDess at the armhole.
that is confined with four or five rows OF
shirring or sometimes tiny plaits, is made
to flare tremendously at the elbow.
The skirts are stili ten or twelve yards
around but are not burdened with stiffen-
ing The middle width is wired up as far
as the knee to preserve a box-plait-hke
effect at the 'front.'
The morning times., 1896-01-26

and in similar one radishes, in another
tomato seed and egg plants Set them
in a sunny window and see that they do
not get cold at night. Give the seeds one
good wetting, and then. unless the room
is very dry, they viii reed no more water
until the little plants are big enough 10
show two little vigorous green leaves,
While they are growing prepare larger
and deeper boxes and mix less sand with
the lear mould, add ordinary soil instead
When the iettgccs and the rest are large
enough transplant them to these bigger
boxes, setting them about three inches
apart. DO not root up the extra plants
'ieft over in the original boxes. Leave
them growing as thick as they like and
let them have plenty OF water and SUM-
Before the transplanted lettuces and rad
ishes have reached their full growth these
left-oyers will be large enough to eat,
though smaller and less perfect than the
ones in the larger boxes when they have
reached their prime.
GOOD GARDENING.
Or course newly transplanted vegetables
require a good watering when first changed
into the fresh soil, and to be protected
from the direct power OF the sun. To get
the best results the soil must be very rich
Some OF the seed men sell excellent fer
tilizers for this purpose, clean and peas
ant to handle Then soon, long before
those who depend on the efforts of a
gardener, there viii be crisp delicious
lettuce and radishes upon the table.
By this time the soil outside viii be
ready for peas, beans, and the tomato
and egg plant settings, which have mean
time been growing strong and vigorous IN
in the boxes. The ground meant for
garden need only be very small place in
deed. If properly enriched, and If the soil
is well cultivated q great many vegetable
crops can succeed each other. Once the
manure-which should have been lying
there all winter is thoroughly foTSed in
(forling is better than spading) then any
woman can easily plant and care for
small garden. The labor is not too heavy
and is very heaitbful. There is no better
cure for nervous prostration in the world
than gardening.
CULTIvATING A SMALL PLOT.
Peas should be plantedin a shallow trench,
the earth being gradually heaped up to
the roots as the vines grow. Three rows
at time is the best plan, as they grow
too quickly, and 1t is better OF to have too
many ripening at once. IN two weeks
another planting should be made and then
repeat this every two weeks until late in
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Early Relishes
Raited in Windows
BOX GARDENING IS AfLEASURE
AND A PROFIT.
Three Feet-of Soil and One Has
Patch of Spring Vege-
tables.

II is unnecessary to have q gardener in
order TO enjoy a garden Many women
realize this as far as flowers are con-
cerned, but many household or women
say regretfully: II wish we could have
our own early vegetables, but of course
having no man 10 attend to them, we
must depend IN the market-or pick our
spring vegetables out OF tin cans"
ALLURING POSSIBILITIES.
This simply means lack of knowledge.
Lei no one woman turn away regretfuIly
from the fascinations OF a seed catalogue.
because she has no gardener, and shut up
the seductive pages fun of pictures Of
fresh lettuce and radishes only because
there is no man in the family 10 plant them
for her.
Great is the capacity OF wooden box
in the way of furnishing spring relishes.
The first one needed is best very shallow.
about three or four inches deep This is
to be filled with sand, and TO have n rich
leaf morld worked into IL until IL is soft
aud pliable. Plant in this lettuce seed,
The morning times., 1896-01-26

tube was excited. He said that he had only
succeeded in this way, and had failed with
Crooke's tubes excited by an ordinary in
duction Coil.
He showed pictures of the skeleton of n
living human hand, a purse containing coins
in which only the coins and the metal clasp
of the purse were reproduced.
The method of procedure was simply TO
place the objec. to be photographed between
Crooke's tube and the usual wooden case
containing the sensitive plate in which the
negative is placed when carried TO and from
the camera The slide is not removed. and
an exposure of froiiifoar to twenty minutes
is required. tai
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Nem Styles
In France
S9ME OF THE LATEST NOVEL
TIES IN PARISIAN COSTUMES.
Princess Jeanne Bonaparte the
Very Mold cf Form-Exclu-
= siye French Women.

Paris, Jan. 20.-Do not believe that
extreme fashion consists in novelty. 1t
is not true. Elegapt dress, ignoring the
novel as such coniorms to tie prevail
ing ideal and looks familiar.
The Princess Jeanne Bonararte wore
at a reception the other day a gown
II violet velvet made with the skirt plain,
She blouse in plaits or gathers and the sleeve
in a Simple balloon, reaching nearly To the
elbow, where il WAS met by long, white
glove. On t.iesleeycs asa Jelrassementerie
ribbon that ran from the top down part
way and then turned a right angle and went
toward the front, and these square figures
balanced each other and gave width and
style to the figure. Round the neck was
ruche of black chiffon or was IL OF Jetted
nousseline, and on the head was Spanish
turban, ilat. and all black, with jet trim
ming placed wide at the Sides The whole
composed dress worthy princess and one
that any modesuy placed woman might
wear, and barring the felioitous cut, might
even have been made by the sewing woman
at home. 1t was the most elegant dress
in an assembly of fashionab bles, and yet
itmight have been made last year, or the year
before.
DETAILS OF THE PRINCESS DRESS.
The further details of the princess dress
The morning times., 1896-01-26

Aubrey Beardsley drawing" when she
Slipped over u yelye: coat a high bla OK chif
fon tours de cou. Reaching above the ears
to q 9 me OF her hair was n gTea full bow
# black satin ribbon at the back-ribbon
four inches wide and of n very heavy quail
ity of satin-that stood out beautifully in
six long loops six inches long.
The ends fell over the front of the coat to
the waist liGe and were finished off with
jet ball fastened Ia the shirred ends of the
ribbon. The highest, fullest chiffon ruffs
commenced at The middle OF the bow and
exieuded half way down the ends of the
ribbon. 1t was such n comfortable. seBsi-
BILE thing and So wonderfully becoming and
soflening TO the face. Another very dressy
one was made of opalcscen; taffeta ribbon,
with wonderful quantity OF yellow lace
falling over it, This is mu ch worn by ladies'
who fancy fun front becoming TO them.
For a square-neck bodice OF black tuile
l saw such chic thing TO be worn, on n
<long, thin throat, as madam explained. At
the back, instead of the big bow was big
jet butterfly with goId-spangled wings.
The tIlle was very full and embroidered
with n fine gold thread.
It stood out and up in stiff Pierrot fashiea.
When women get to the "chaperone' age,
where collar bones will assertthemseiyes and
throats get stringy, and ma ssaging won't
do ali it's claimed to do, then these softening
on the hard lines. With the exquisite little
Pierrot ruffS that are worn with SO many
OF thesquare-neck evening bodicesno woman
need grumble at meager throat.
AN AMERICAN COUNTESS.
The Countess Of Craven and her mother,
Mrs. Eradley- Martin, both wear these full
neck rufrles. Both are In mourning and are
in figure much different, but both like
these full, chic, Frenchy things. They fire.
quently shop In Paris, as Newporters run
down to New York.
The Marie Antonette fichus are fashioned
out OF all kinds OF gauzy material that the
market is offering. For short women the
fichus only reach to the waist line, but for
taller women who are slender enough to
stand the style, the fichus come to the hem
OF the dress. Nine. Emma Eames- Story,
who ts wearing mourning this winter for her
husband's father, receives her Intimate
friends In a soft white gown Of camel 3 hair,
The morning times., 1896-01-26
PROF. RoUrGEN's DISCOVERY.
His New Light VIII Best Penetrate
Dense Substances.

Dense Substances.
Cable Special to New York Sun.
The maryels OF Prof Routgens new
photography are even greater than
those VIII ich have described in
recent dispatches. An the professors ex-
periments have been successfully repeated in
London this week. and many OF them were
shown Mt the meeting of the Camera Club
on Thursday. 1t proves that the strange
medium which produces images of hidden
objects on n photograph plate is not light
at all. 1t is equally incorrect to describe
it as electricity.
1t is some force or influence produced
by Crooke's tube when excited in a peculiar
manner. but II Is not the visible light OF
glow which comes from the tube. That
visible light has the same qualities as an
ordinary light The invisible new medium
has not the same qualities. For instance.
it VIII not penetrate clear glass. 1t will
penetrate ground glass. though more feebly
than wood and other organic matter.
Aluminium is far more transparent than
glass. Even copper Is less opaque than
glass.
Mr.. Swinton. the well known electrical
engineer, showed, a large collection OF
these strange photographs which had been
taken TO the CaInera Club He employed "a
half horsepower electric current, and pass
ing 1t through an induction coil, loaded ten
Leyden jars. The discharge from them was
passed through a second induction coil by
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Don't Grimm Yonr Hair.

''If you want to look young and natural
rather than faded and artificial said a
woman the other day, ''stop crimping
your hair. I know Of no surcr way of
bringing about the effect, at least. Just
call to mind the-weii, not the elderly,
but the no longer youthful women that you
know and think how ugly, ,inartistic andarti-
fcial they look with that mass of frizzes
over their faces. And how soft, natural
and becoming straight hair is to any wo-
man at any age or stage OF health. ."-syra-
cuse Post.
The morning times., 1896-01-26

flannel or cotton batting, spread the en-
broidery wrong side up, and with as hot
an iron as can be used without fear of
scorching begin the pressing from the center
outward, between the iron and the work,
until partly dried. Then press out the
wrinkles towards the edges, which can be
stretched in the finishing. IL care has
been taken in the enbroidering not to draw
the work (hoops are of great value in this
respect), the linen viii be perfectly smooth
and the design raised on the right side
from having sunk into the thickness of the
flannel underneath. Never press any en-
broidcry on the right side, as it is ruined
in this way.
When the niece is ironcd on the wrong side
till thoroughly dry, turn it and run the iron
over the plain surface of the linen and over
the hemstitched edge, il there be such fin
ish.
Fringed edges should be brushed after
thcy dry. Etnhroidercrs viii appreciate the
importance of these hints. for after hours of
work and the expenditure of much eyesight.
1t is distressing TO see beautiful piece of
work ruthlessly handled. and perhaps de-
spoiled OF its beauty after few washings
by the hands of an ninexperienced worker.
The morning times., 1896-01-26

MafdcnS Who Know How to skate.
Away with the girl who's so fond Of the
wheel;
Who boasts of century run.
Her boomers and Jacket no longer appeal
Who caresfor theraces she won?
The weather's suggestive of ice and Of
snow
It's been rather chilly OF late
And homage we pay Just at present, you
know,
To maidens who know how to skate.
way with the girl who would imitateman-
The seasons not suited TO her
And now we want girls of a different plan;
For who would make bloomers OF fur?
The bicycle girl was all right for a while,
But now she is quite out of date;
The bicycle face is eclipsed by tile smile
OF nlaidens who know how to skate.
Oh, here's to the girl whom in winter we
prize;
Whose checks are as red as the rose;
Who captivates all by her bright, sparkling
eyes,
As gracefully gliding she goes.
Oh, here's to the girl who In winter holds
sway,
Who havoc In hearts will create,
Who dresses today in a womanly way
The maiden who knows how TO skate.
Chicago Evening Post.
The morning times., 1896-01-26
Perhaps He DID.

Hooking Hin-Lord To,teringham lover
the album OF views)-Don't yoH-es-love
an ancient ruin, Miss Goldrox?
Miss Goldrox lflutteringly)I-I-thi y
SO xsblen; but you may ask papa!-Pnck.
The morning times., 1896-01-26
WHY the Colonel Rises Early.

why the Colonel Rises Early.
Northern-What time do you get up,
Colonel?
Colonel de Kanter-Five in summer, 6
In winter.
Northern-Do you find early rising agrees
with you?
Colonel de Kanter-No-o; but the bars
don't rS,- re when they shall open.-Nes
York World.
The morning times., 1896-01-26

decollette, leaving the tulle high. The
sleeve reached the elbow. The skirt bor-
der. belt, and collar band were of heavy
glistening cut jet
While peop,e OF taste seek 10 appropriate
what is beautiful in the fashion, there exists
at Paris, as there exists elsewhere, a class
OF women so superlatvely aris,ocratic. so
anxious to differ from the rest of the world.
nat they exclude from their dress not only
novelty. but beauty as well. This phe-
noinenon has its interest. These people
10 not underrate beauty. but they know it
is the end sought by ordinary mortals. and
therefore its value is deprecated for them
STRIVE TO BE EXCLUSIVE.
clusively theirs and so they POSSESS them
selves of tie ugly, of which they are mod
erately sure 10 remain in undsputed pos
session. Everyone to Lis fancy.
This class has this season evolved a fur
Jacket that costs lot of money q nd is O S
far removed from the possibilities fer
beauty in the actual mode as :; wall flower
is from laughing red rose. Mais, cue
voulez vOus? 1t is emiEent!y respectable.
The Jacket in question is of curly as
trakan, cut after the cOnmon model of this
winter, with fitted back and balf-oOse
front, double-brcasted and blind fastened.
A mcager collar and reyers surround the
neck, and the sleeve is cut with a small
dunipy bag at tie top, in such shape that
beside all the beautiful forms now being
made no one would wish to dispute a
patent upon it. But it Goes not do to give
too much pleasure to the eye.