davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1896-04-19

to get thin down me middle. I tear them
down the center, sew the outer edges to-
gether and run a narrow hem down each
side. Sheets should have a two or three
inch hem at the top and half-inch one at
the bottom.
y ~ -
The woman who has a large family will
nnd her pillow cases most satisfactory II
finished at the bottom with a three-inch
hem. Women who have less to do, or have
help. can iuxuriate in befrilled, belaced and
embroidered pillow cases. A tasty woman
will not oyerdo the matter OF trimming
them, but they may be trimmed dsintily
and yet be neat. The wide, coarse lace sold
at and cents yard, called pillow case
lace, will never be used by woman OF taste.
No trimming at all is better than such an
abominstion. A pillow case is pretty With a
threo-inch cambria rufie. not too full with
q very nerrow hem edged in narrow lace.
Fine embroidery, three or four inches wide,
slightly -frilled into hem the same width,
makes q pretty case. but is easily mussed.
The prettiest caseE OF all are thoee with q
half-inch hem edged with fine lace, or with
three-inch hem, the hem cut in two about
an inch below the stitching, and a narrow
inserting Of Hamburg or lace added. A
neat, pretty case has a strip OF novelty
braid set in. or single strip OF serpentine
braid.
have said nothing about pillow shams or
bolster cases, because the only bolster / ap-
prove OF is the kind that goes next the mat
trese. having one thin edge and gradually
getting thicker toward the head-board. This
requires no case
Pillow ehams do not believe in, and when
one does not believe in thing they are not
apt to see its good points. So let the women
who fancy than set forth their advantages,
for to ME the sigh. OF them on bed sug-
gests soiled pillow case underneath.
= - :. --x-
thing is possible. The Elizabethan COL
lar with loops inside of it next the
hair is a fair sample OF some
that will be worn. Some OF the ribbon
stocks have a futing or frl of ribbon sewed
on the upper edge to stand up around the
faca. Te
The latest thing in linen collars is band
that is pinned inside the neck band with
a pointed founce at the top to stand cut
almost straight. These points are bordered
With pink tucls.
These turn dowr or turn out collars are
great favorites with girls who wear black
dresses. Some of the turn-dcwil collars
have rows of valenciennes insertion iun-
ming around. with an edging of lace.
None Of the new lace collarettes hang
loose or faring in front. shape, making
two points, edged with embroidery or lace,
whatever the trimming happens to be-.
More elaborate collarettes are made to ft
the figure in front. Some have yoke with
two points reaching just below the bust, and
two lace founces standing out over the
shoulders.
| A white Swiss collarettc ia made yoke
shape with alternate strips Of fne tucks
and insertion and edged with lace. On the
! shoulders is a strip of Swiss ornam ented
The herald., 1896-04-19

epared better than the whole amount al
once, and woman making use Of this man
ner Of supplying these needed articles viii
ever find her closets In q condition ot
plentifulness.
1t is better to buy the material and make
your sheets, pillow cases and comfortables
February and March are good months II
which to purchase and make up linen sup,
plies. Blankets are cheaper in March anf
April; but print and other material ueet
for comfortables are usually cheaper In the
late summer or early fall months. Sep
tember being the best for making comforta
bes. They are then out Of the way before
the October days bring the winter sewing
for the family. II is wise plan to get lit
tie more than the required pattern OF ma
tcrial. and fit case about twelve inches
deep over each end Of the comfortable Baste
it on. remove and wash when soiled. 1t ID
great saving OF the comfortable and will
recommend itself to all cleanly house
keepers.
There is great diversity Of opinion regard
Ing material for sheets and pollow cases
some people consider it cheaper to buy un-
blcached musli7 or sheeting. sometimes
using the unbleached for pillow cases.
favor a good quality of bleached sheeting
two yards wide, at about 20 cents yard
and the ordinary fine bleached muslin. al
CT cents a yard, for pillow cases. In
our mothers time the seamless eheetlne
was almost unknown. two widths Of muslin
or linen being sewed so carefully together
In an overhem stitch as to almost deny
the fact Of there being any seam. A great
many women follow that custom to-day. II
may be good old way, but I have no pa
tience with the mother Of family, and only
one pair Of hands to work for them, who
will sit and strain eyesight and back. per-
haps temper as well. in the simple overhem-
ming OF a sheet. The seamless sheeting
costs but little more; yet IL that little must
be saved. then save yourself as WELL and
sew the seam by machine. making 1t as
narrow as possible. Ono used to the ma
chine can sew on the very edge Of the
muslin and not run off the cloth. I use
this method in making over my seamless
sheets. as l Invariably do when they begin
The herald., 1896-04-19

which IA It's appearance Is exactly like the
iex;rio w.sps with which flowers are tied
Up.
Tho ecccntriciie. Of straw this season
seem indeed to know no bounds, and we
lave sor:s varieties interviewer with chiffon
and others with silk, while still again some
are Of cobwebby consistency. though one and
ell are alike in being Yelled with cloudy
io:ds cf tuila.
excellence Of ali the emart millinery OF the
season, q proepect which Is not altogether
pleasing olc: for with all the good will
IN thc world We cannot persuade ourselves
to believe that the charms Of tulle cen be
anything but feeting, and liable to disap-
rear promptly and finally before the damp
rens Of the slightest drizzling rain or the
rayaGes OF sumner dust.
However. all this concerns Dame Fashion
not ct all. and go tulle will lie used to ar
enormous extent, and Il must be admitted
its appearance is all that could be desired.
| Picture to yourself fer example. a hat OF
green and black mixed straw, with folds
OF black over white tulie vei,ng the briu,
and with punches of white and mauve yio-
cts and yellow cowsips nesting here and
here as trimming. while a high osprey Of
tne violets adorns the left side. Or again.
| cn hat OF green rush straw white tulle
over green ,ulle produces an exquisite effec.
IN con1unction with punches of lilies Of the
valley.
II You are already provided with a enlar.
cloth gown and are dcsirous Of inaulging in
more elaborate dress. think that you will
pronably find the model OF which you are
IN search In Iew toilette de visite. one OF
the latest creations of famous Parisian
mouse. The original model was made.
must tell you, In mordcre bengaline, the
,oose ,aois eorsago sides caught into tight
SATIN adorned with an elaborate embroidery
| Iii gold. while the revers were Of heliorope
velvet, fastened with two porcelain buttons
Inc sleeves are arranged with a box
plated pelerine effect over perfectly tight
undersleeve, and as to the skirt It Is bor-
dered with deep band of the embroidered
SIX and is also provided with a band and
tabs Of eveque velvet, which give the finish
ing touches to particularly distinguished
toilette which I should advise you to copy
in it's entirety. fer the colorlng is one of ite
greatest charms and could not be improved
upon. GRACE MORROW.
The herald., 1896-04-19
WIND AND SEA.


The sea is jovial comrade;
He laughs wherever he goes;
His merriment shines in the dimpling lines
That wrinkle his hale reposc;
He lays himself down at the feet of the SUM-
And shakes all over with glee.
And the broad-backed pillows fall faint on the
shore.
In the nrth Of the mighty sea!
But the wind Is sad and restless
And cursed with an inward pain;
You may bark at will, by valley or hill,
But you hear him still complain.
He walls on the barren mountains
And shrieks on the wlntry sea;
He sobs in the cedar and means in the pine
And shudders all over the aspen tree.
Welcome are both thsir voices,
And know not which Is best
The laughter that slips from oceans lips
Or the comforticss winds unrest.
There's G. pang in all rejoicing.
4 Joy In TIE aoart Of pain,
md the wind THAI saddens. the sea that glad
dens.
Ara singing he se,f-sa-i, st-a.a.
--Ehycrd Tayinr
The herald., 1896-04-19
bWbiRIr sRlE BUYS

Some one has wisely said: There Is no
luck in housekeeping. Everything works
by exact rule. A place for everything. and
everything in Its place; time for every
thing. and everything in it's time" 1t
is all very true; but how few house
keepers properly manage the exact
places and times, says the Homo
Queen" To be sure. many are very
methodical as to wash day, ironing day,
baking day. and SO on through the week;
even then they hnd that something has
gono wrong with the household machinery.
The sheets get thin, the pillow cases slit
across and the table linen shows the raw
ages Of time and laundry. all at once.
* Z x
This state OF things is apt to appall the
family purse az well az the housekeeper::
And this is o state OF things that would
never be were tho "time for everything.
remembered in replenishing the household
stores. Al
* -x- x
The buying and making of articles which
will wear out in spite OF the best care
should be divided between the seasons
spring and fall. A portion from the house,
hold purse should be laid aside each month
during the year. Each housekoeper can best
estimate the amount needed for year, but
to the inexperienced ones / would suggest
that each spring, quite carly, before the fam
lily sewing for summer is begun, the house.
wife invest in two tablecloths. half or a
dozen napkins, a half-dozen dish towels.
half-dozeu hand towels. three sheets and
two pairs of pillow cases for each bed IN
constant Use. This estimate I give for the
women whose husbands get modest eaiary.
If one dollar be laid aside each month.
It wiz fully cover this expenditure and
leave enough over for fine table cloth,
some fine towels, scarfs or tray cloths.
ha1, apof1ar 6filar y sh ho11H ha laid oGs1n oh
month for the fall replenishing. which re-
quires one or two warm. new covers for
each bed. and possibly new spread or
counterpane once in two years. l have
allowed this amount for e family rcquirlng g
three beds. Two dollars each nlcntn can be
The herald., 1896-04-19

galoons ana passemente.lcs which are des-
tined to trim them.
Embroideries are becoming more clabo-
rate every day, and even tailor-inade gowns
are not escaping. as witness a dress Of bis
cult colored cloth which I met the other
day, and which impressed itself upon me by
the beauty Of the embroidery which bor-
dered the skirt and entirely covered the
bodice.
Carried out IN white silk braid-sewed
on edgeways. please note, and therefore
giving a bold raised effect-and intermixed
with white chenille, the design was con-
ventional foliage and storks of goodly size
with outspread wings. OF course the smart
coat bodice was provided with a cravat
bow of lace and foamy tulle. and the beauty
of the dress was so great that 1t made one
for the moment forget its inevitably heavy
cost; but then pretty things always have
knack of doing this.
J. In this case the sleeves, though stiff with
embroidery, were most moderate in size.
but the new sleeve proper can only exist
in transparent chiffon, lisse or lace; and
ss tho weather is hardly suitable for such
airy arm coverings at present, the sleeves
of our day gowns are not very noticeably
different Just at present, save that there
ia a marked tendency to outline the
shoulders closely before any puGanS is al
lowed to put In an appearance.
The smart bodice, for instance, which at
the moment will do evening duty for thea
ters and the like. and later in the season
can be utilized for day wear and the adorn-
ment of our friends "at homes" garden
parties. etc., would look at its best with
the closely drawn fichu drapery at the top
carried out in a bright shade Of pnkish
nauve chiffon, bordered with soft frill-
ing, which is edged with narrow baby
ribbon in pale shade of yellow, while the
glace silk corsage and sleeve puffs might
be either in mauve or yellow. The bow
which catches in the chiffon frills and holds
in the bodice at the waist must be of satin.
I think that with a view to it's double
uses you might allow yourselves to have
long. transparent sleeves of chiffon, fin
ished with little plated wrist frill. and
you must refuse to be parted from the
pretty little basque drapery into which the
frill Of chiffon which outlines the central
piait of the bodice Is continued, for I can
assure you that Dame Fashion is not 60
ing to forsake the basque.
Indeed, II all our little frivolous frillings
and puffings werc 10 be taken from us at
once, We should be rather CORY objects.
fear.
If you wish. when summer comes, to rro-
vide some fitting headgear for wear with
this bodice. you will Re safe in choosing
wide tocuc composed entirely Of many
roses. in various tones of pink or yellow.
any tlssr.ns CT srase baing atonod for by
c Gsrias of h.gh l7a!1s of the rrcsn straw.
The herald., 1896-04-19

with a row Of tiny spherical pearl buttons.
A grass linen collar reaches to the waist
In front In alternate strips Of tucks and
lace. Double founces trim the shoulders.
This amounts to nearly whole bodice and
will be a nice addition to plain summer
dress.
A pretty evening collarette to wear In
the ballroom with low bodice Is made en-
tirely Of French Valenciennes in an ecru
tint The lace is gathered on foundation
Of bolting cloth IN rows one above the other
to the neck. From here an Blizabethan
collar made of solid Valenciennes. flares
out around the hair. The collar ties with
mink ribbon.
The herald., 1896-04-19
cuRLs AND WRINKLES.
One VIII Surely Acconpany
Other. SnYa a KuaNiu9 flnn.

One VIII Surely Accompany -
Other, Says a knowing One.
The majority Of women make Gpnat MI
take In crimping their hair. For Sone RI
son or other. an ovcrhanglng clou1 Of curl
and frizzes has a way d bfinglng OF q
the little lines and defects that natuko q
time has stamped in woman's face. Th1
is quite contrary to the oid-time nDt1Oq
Then 1t was taken for granted thett u
tighter the curls the prettier and meEe ~
osming the woman. But modern taske do
crees differently.
'If you want to look young and rntur1l
rather than faded and artificial" said
woman the other day. "stop crimpint yosl
hair. I know Of no surer way Of b6ng1p(
about the effects. at least. Just call
mind the-well. not elderly. but - aongd
youthful women that you knew; epd thin]
how ugly, inaftistic and aStl1play Ghgy 1ool
with that mass Of frizzes over their 0aeo1
and how soft. natural and becoming 9Hale&
hair is to any woman IN any Ueaoo - ~
of health. Not necessarily tiohtly 4rnw9
streaked-back hair: It may be loeoe anl
puffy. If you choose. and always, Of oog1e9
arranged with an eye to artistic and an11v14
Iual effect, but uncrimped, uncusisd aA9 N
frizzed."
The herald., 1896-04-19
THE AMERICAN coFTuRn

French Women Say Our Cereles4 neul
Would Spoil Any Levsly Hat.
When our .anguags grows . little Tichel
it will perhaps supply itself With = NAM
for the hair In = condition OF orderly ar
rangement. Until then there sesms no wal
but to serve ourselves with the French
word "coiffure," which does not asaamilatl
with English ct all. Tho werd henddree1
given by tho dictionaries b an ablurdity1
we have no name for tho thing. Efenc1
milliners say we havs not the thine. Thsg
saw that the carelessness o8 Amsr1can VI
men about arranging their ha1r = liable =
spoil tho effect Of tho most Buecensful hat
I merely repeat what II said.
It ought not to be dimcuit to fdIlcw a.
present French fashion. It q tho same G.
it has been for uome time: = looss wavin0
all round the head and IL sndD drawn int
a small knot behind. Il falls over the eag9
and the extreme Of fashions covers the -
entirely, though It should be said thsl
many elegant women cont1noe to draw ~
hair back to expose tho ear: The halr
not worn high on the head exnept wit1
evening dress. when euifurs. hlsh or1sut
is matter Of choice.
The herald., 1896-04-19
THE WHITE FRAMED 1nnROG
It VIII Tell YoQ Exactly 8gWR Yol
Look to OtheF0,

AOOk4 10 OI06EUs
Let not her to whom nature - ooo1
niggard Of her charms despair.
II she would see herseif In tke 0ooapt1vl
mirror o. others ses her with ~ ~. q
as nearly as possible. let her ha1bsa -
dry goods shop and buy . quantity = 80
pure white material, gauze. II pcd1lhlA. q
not, Swiss OF India muslfn VIII enDWe Xok
we'll.
Be sure ana have It pure white, and afbeI
polishing the surface Of ths m1lFuEs UxAel
the material at the center Of the top. en~
bring 1t down softly at either sidA 1naminC
the glass in folds Of pure white.
When this Ii done TO artistic satiBiActloq
peep in ana SEQ what trans&0Emut10ut
The true tints Of the complex1en. the a.
preston of tho coumtenance and eyes. thl
correct color Of the hair. will BE- very "a.
curately reflected.
This is one Of the milliners' oldest secrets
Many Of them drape the glasses on opening
day In the softest drapery OF pure white
It is done with the view Of giv1ng the faiu
patronesses the best view Of themssavsa
possible, administering In this way Z Mttls
subtle fattery, thereby disposing more 60
ily Of a greater amount of goods.
Then the white-draped mirror. the laDo
covered toilet table. make : dainty spc, 4
any girls room.
The herald., 1896-04-19
O mighty deep!
A FEW PATERNAL QUERIES.

Must 7 pretend am a horse, ~.
Because bought sled? At
Mus. succumb to grim remorse
And ever-haunting dread?
Must be driven through the street.
Unless I hide myself3
Must pretend I'm strong and fleet
To please a boyish elif
II he says "Nelgh!" can't say "Nay"
When he would take q drive?
Did /, in buying him sleigh.
But at my woe c0nnive?
Did my good cash but serve to make
A weary slave Of mot
And, though my bones and mu1cles ache.
May be never free:
An. SAD indeed. the day sought
His longings to appcase!
All, sad, indeed, the havoc wrought .,
In my good life Of easel
Around the block we evey 70. iS
But ! can't really SEQ
Just why sled and falling snow
should make . horse Of me.
Chicago Post
The herald., 1896-04-19
EVERY MAN HIS OWN roET.
You build a sonnet about this plan:
Your first line ground out. take the next 0

You build a sonnet about this plan
Your first line ground out. take the next ono
And make It rhyme with this one. Just
below.
Then next, you match tho first line. II you
can.
Don't hurry the machine. The lines must
scan.
With steady motion turn the crank. You
know
'Tis not a sonnet II 1t limps Go slow.
Now find some rhyme for "scan"-for In
stance. man.
As to the last six lines some latitude
May be allowed. Take any word, as
/. Now hunt rhyme for latitude" Try
M shrewd.
This line must end with dove. or love. or
strove.
And this with mood. or prude or crude. OF
dude:
And there's your sonnet Throw It In the
stove.
Chicago Tribune.
The herald., 1896-04-19
TEN TRITE TRUIsnis.

'Tis harder to unlcarn than TO learn,
Wanton kittens may make sober cSts.
We are apt to believe what we wish for.
Zeal without knowledge Is fire without light
You need not get golden pen to write upon
dirt
Unbdden guests are welcomest when they
are gone.
What we cannot help is our misfortune, not
our fault
To lather an asa head is only wasting soap
Spanish.
Pay what you owe. and what. you're worth
you Il know. =
The herald., 1896-04-19

ara VIC wcnlcn win pcs taxo up So much
room In tho world IN general end In trains
and Cthpr travelling convoyances in part,cu-
lar. 1t is only 10 be hoped that we shall
not lose any Of our individual Importance
with the departing purf5 of cur sleeves and
tho vanishing yards Of our skirts, and also
that we shall notice some diminution in our
billa for new dress material; though this
! very much doubt, for what we are likely
to gave in quantity we shall certainly loss
again on tho quality of the e|aborataly
krANt.ful fsbrcs and the differing ieWelel
The herald., 1896-04-19
WISE AND OTHERWISE.

Worth thinking OLA spinster's first offer Of
marriage.
Not satis1ed-Universal humanity. individu-
ally speaking.
Human nature-rhs most inhuman Of ali
natures-in spots.
Inconsistent conslstency-Serving God pub
liciy and the Devil privately.
Not worth . snap (slang)--The promises Of
summer watering place pretty girl
Botwixt and between-Saying prayers on
Sunday. and swears from Monday until Satur-
5ay inclusive.
The herald., 1896-04-19
Her Diuples.

From the Century.
When Doras dimples come and CO..
watch them, torn 'twixt bliss and woe
(For at her feet long have sat mel.
Their fitful charm dstracts me so;
Because alssi I never know
Whether she's laughing with or at me!
The herald., 1896-04-19
s,a.hen sleeve. and Jewclcd rrocIss.

ara slashed. showing narrow underpuff Of
some rich contrasting material. These. with
the bodice deeply pointed and the. jeweled gir-
die with hair powdered and heels prepostev
ously high, come IN the list of now, undesr-
able concomitant fashions for 'a6 etyles, which
always follow in the wake Of tho tailor effects,
Al we find in a study OF sartorial history.
The herald., 1896-04-19
FROM TIE HEIGHTS.
q sun-kisssd hills!

q sun-kisssd hills!
That seefn to lift me nearer to His throne.
Whose purer air. from drifting cloud-land.
blown,
With strength anew for effort weary grown
My being thrills;
Sing va together and with glad accord.
The power Of the Lord!
valleys sweet!
In golden haze and purpling shadows drest;
Whose happy homes. like clustering gems.
Your wealth OF iOvO. your store of peace and
rest.
With Joy replete,
cling yo together and with glad accord,
-'AS Tho blessings Of the Lord!
o mighty deep!
ea-s fer out on thy infinity.
DER hsaven-touchea waves ooos spirit moves
SEQ
Ir;s deoths OF love- Ills boundless sympathy.
waves that leap
IT, srset Him. sing with thankful. glad &C,
cord.
Tbs meScies OF our Lord!
-Erao,ot.
The herald., 1896-04-19
He Didn,t Know.

From the Boston Transcript.
Hicks-It would be comforting thing II
the dead could revisit the earth to tell US about
the great beyond"
Wicks-I don't know about that. Why, when
a man returns from few weeks in Europe he
becomes a pestilential bore for years after
wards.
The herald., 1896-04-19
EsTELLE's ASTRONOMY.

Our little Estelle
so Was perplaxed when she found
That this wonderful world
That we 1.-Two on. is round.
How tits held in its place
In its orbit so true
Was q puzzle to her.
With no answer In view.
at must be-" said EstelIs.
Like a ball in the air,
That is hung by string
But the string isn't there,"
Della Hart Stone In March St. Nicholas.
The herald., 1896-04-19

,.m',., Min Msss SS.n T''s,a a.a, =; iala':a asa h'
resided st sonnerviile. Aass.. rh4 ~ dspk
which occurred not lon{ - ~ @sl4.&1
occurred in her childhSod. la4e - = tno4 !,
the Jingle, and was aftsewaS4 lum9eanYe4 T.
q youth who was then cne q ~ e1nooA S11
proud to show bits of the taGnsap ~Ae9oe g
white as snow," In various gteges 3 svo1ue1s1
from the raw wool into . oo0 drGD &8b11A
The herald., 1896-04-19
Ho. Whifa Hanas

insufficient drying is the cause of most
chapped hands. 1t is an excellent idea to keep
on ones dressing table box of almond meal
with a perforated cover. When the hands are
dried with the towel a little almond meal
busted over them will complete the work OF ab-
chan.
The herald., 1896-04-19

An excellent wash for plants ID tobacco
wafer. Take ! handful Of tobacco stsms a5d
them * PGSRss Rs tsnr xssss 1ysr t. tH %Ssu until sss
water has become <col. wipe OF the leaves
and STAINS with. . sponge Or soft cloth. y.
duss ths stssnsth S{ the isiusion w!ts nss2
the ropts.. This Will keep Giants healthy and
rtmove sI insects. ----
The herald., 1896-04-19

Stem green is very fashionable shade both
In dress and millinery. 1t harmonizas beau
tifully with all shades Of rose. violet, dahlia,
petunia,- dauison red and some OF tho blus
dyes. II Is particularly handsome in cloth
and In the new silk and wool mixed fabrics.
The herald., 1896-04-19
Eore,rnern at Bayreuth,

Some of the Germans are objecting to tho
Invasion of foreign artists who are to partici-
pate in the next Bayreuth festival. Among
| the latter will be the De Reszke brothers. tho
Misses MacIntyre, Mme Brema and Susan
strong and several orchestral players from
T dan,
The herald., 1896-04-19

Though South CazolmA gsfssss dlyeces -
any cause she does jugt3eo - Wueno1 II ~
cording them full riShts u rsopssty.