The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1896-01-19

Il Cruise IN A CANOE ON FUCA STRAIT
g. swan
.NN~
BIZ JAMES G. SWAN.

80
- IN which intended taking pas
- port Townsend; but day after day
- vrsts no signs Of a sail, and as VIII
| a. SET In uncommonly early. vita
- uro<yect OF continued cold, and as
- acre no steamers running 70 the cape
: ,soss early days. ! finally decided 70
- VOYAGE IN a canoe, and succeeded
- ,~-s1a1lng a party OF Makah Indians
:. 40 ne up the strait 10 Port Town
- EnoyIng the difficulties I might en-
se~-ssr I prepared myself for the journey
- sienty OF provisions cooked, so that,
!. esse We could not land 20 make FIRE.
:. could s2pease the cravings OF hunger
.s.soat having to resort 10 the raw ma
ry:aL
m tie 18th OF November, 1888. I left
go Paw in a canoe with FIVE Indians
- 81 whom was an old rquaw. Only
~ Of the party could talk the Chinook
s.rvon and he was a young fellow named
fsouk-shie or Boston Tom, who had
s.~naIly lived with some OF the white set
.srs. and could speak little English
r. day was dark and lowering, with a
txhf head wind and indications OF a storm.
~ kept close IN toward the shore, for
- double purpose OF avoiding the strong
- current OF the strait, and that we
rsrht land In case OF an emergency.
IA not object TO this. "a II gave me bet
.sr oopOrtunity 10 examine the shore than
Eve had kept further of. ] should have
sssoyed Il exceedingly had II been sum-
rsr time. with long days: but. as II was.
managed to get a better idea Of the shore
tar had before.
person sailing up or down the Strait
a. Fgca In the track usually kept by YES
ss !magines himself close in-shore whsa
he may be four or five miles off. The
great sierra OF the Olympic range appears
10 cone down quite 10 the waters edge
ard presents a wild and forbidding aspect;
b. as the land is neared We see
he foothills, before dimly visible
nrough the mist, now assume their proper
form. disclosing deep ravines, with fertile
valleys lying between them and reaching
saie % the base OF the great mountains
q TIE Coast range. AS soon as the canoe
frts close in with the beach we find. at
Intervals along the shore, fine meadows.
Covered with luxuriant grass I'm summer,
Or gently Endulating ground. bearing the
sturdy giants OF the forest, Offering In
easements OF various kinds 10 settlers
70 come and locate and build up towns
snd villages that are destined to line the
shores OF the bays and eoves and gladden.
fe sight OF the mariner with the pleasant
~sw Of white cottages sending up blue
sn8kB from hospitaole hearths. The head
lasts Of the bays and points are bold.
prsc.piious and rocky. The water at these
tshss with tremendous force upon the
eA1s making a passage around them at
tines difficult and dangerous matter.
Although the weather was cold, II was
ni Intense cold such as the inhabitants
&c he New England coast experience II
xu damp. cold atmosphere that chilled
= very marrow In ones bones. and 1
fEsi il difficult TO keep comfortable. al
fhossh wrapped up in several blankets
- fnH 2ffff raj oil
saich were wet with the spray from their
paddles. and some one or other OF the
party vas constantly stopping TO thrash
rs hands or blow his fingers TO get
itla warmth, consequently our progress
was slow Ny Indians were in great fear
Of the Elvha tribe, who resided on the
strait near Edfz hook, now Port Angeles.
They had good reason for their fears.
which | VIII presently relate.
The first day We reaced Clallam Bay.
about twenty miles up from the cape. and
eamped at shutdown IN an old deserted
lodse, where We built rousing FIRE, cooked
cur supper and went to sleep. I was
awakened long before daylight by one OF
TIE Indians throwing fresh fuel on the
tlbeTs, which soon blaZed up. covering
ne with smoke and a shower OF sparks
Not wishing 10 have my blankets scorched, /
rolled them up. and calling the other
la9ians. l told them to get breakfast and
Start. After the Indians had finished their
sorning meal OF dried halbat and whale
81 and roasted pototaes. and had finished
Nne cold sausage and part OF a cold roast
tack. We packed our traps into the canoe
an left.
Tom had a gun. and as ducks were pen
y, be occasionally shot one and soon had
enough for the days supply. AS We were
crossing Clallam bay "a whale rose TO the
surface close 20 our canoe and blew. This
sAked the Indians up. and. forgetting all
Else, they were eager TO give chase: but.
foriunately for me. they had no whale
scar with them. so they were obliged 10
saandon their design OF making a greasy
conquest We proceeded on our course
III We came 20 a ledge OF rock. where
We saw several seals lying. The Indians
Immediately padded in and Tom Jumped
tshora and after creeping FOR some time
Aaind the rocks fired at a seal and hit
hri, but his shot were too small and thu
sai escaped The Indians, however, were
eeterm.ned 10 ind him. and ran the canoe
s@ous the rocks. over which the surf vas
tfeak.ng, showing as much. unconceTn IS
u they were padding about a miilpond.
/ knew the coasummate skill with which
te Aakah Indians handled their canoes.
sad felt perfectly safe under their guild
aace. stll. ! was IN no way anxious TO
1aAe quite 50 close an examination or the
seology OF the reef bat concluded It was
Best 20 Lex the Indians have their own
way and see all the FUN I could.
From Clailam bay 10 the5next hcadlani, /
eal.ed lysht, or pillar point. IS about
we've miles The shore the-Whola distance /
very precipitous. the mountain coming
e'Sa directly 20 the water. This IS at
taaes dangerous place from the tide rips
az heavy swelIs. but We Passed Il in
t4lftys aul farming Pillar point came Into
aso;aer hay or iudentaton IN the coast.
Were a good anchorage FOR small vessels /
"a * had IN westerly winds. There Is a /
aas prairie Immediately inside Pillar point. /
- On u were the charrei remains OF al /
- N village where. IN .1S5S, the Nitinat /
4l4-AAS of Vancouver, island had Killed +
49, twenty OF the Inhabitants and burned /
SsF village. making slaves OF their wo-
-. The AaAahs were thought 20 have +
sand Ia th.s masascTe. but nothing was F
RIVED against them. For a long time 1
ssete aad been ~ feeling Between the Clal- /
- arc the Mak3hs. which this massacre +
r.-7s-ned Toward night having passed /
-ss4A river, We reached q Little stream 4
- tsshoh or Tyre river. Here the (
lars decided 30 stop FOR the aigat. so
pa@d.t3 up The stream about a mile i
= 'aen went into The woods and made +
:. camp under tho spreading branches /.
great spruce tree The ground was
-, -. ron receat -aau. aHi. fearing 70 take I.
made "a tl.CA bed 81 cedar houghs 4
"a taem spread nay Blankets. making /
e*' aad fragrant couch. ca WhlcA ! /
= Sean4iy Xii morning. ri
IS indians had come thus FAR Up ths
. iaat the smoke OF. oar campfire I
49,. Io' be seen by a1y o. the Elwha I
s1rs MO - ,gas he roaming round in +
:, s@eoss etter game They had plenty /.
"a - g tell of aerce SattlSs fought. T
- ~ sst s.al