New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-09-06

lie rather than strike a different chord. Mon
danes will probably ask for an extra length OF
dress-trmming this fall to send to the milliner-a
state OF affairs that the modste does generally
IKE The customer is apt to assume that with
her yard OF brocade or velvet she has furnished
the greater part OF the hat and the milliner re-
members the weeks she has given to preparing her
,nmnd when legitimate expense she Is accus-
'o T1s 70 charge to materials furnished
:, This brings up the subject to why few
parisian couturieres have included a millinery de
many OF them provide jupons, negllgees and lin
gerie but ! can only think Of Felix now as dress
e ~ H. does not suggest hat including portion
NOM Ne in Sams maI to it should all be in har
10 'a axe milliner sample of gown helps her
Dut niue. Tor the cut and general tone of the
gown Is OF quite as much Importance as the colors
=. In choosing hat. color and becomingness to
the face are sometimes small things in relation
to the tout ensemble. Many women buy hats view
covered with modification when they catch a full
H iShs iil view afterward When one wants hat to
90 DUTY with several toilettcs. by far the safest
way Is to have several trimmed hats sent home to
,uItiVate respect for the opinion concerning cos
,ume OF the average masculine relative. especially
prothefs ana husbands out of the honeymoon stage.
Gu. WIFI lfeSe gentlemen come TO think they can
design mats and gowns cease to consult them for
the most frank Opinion concorme voTr app @l1
amc ' is a wonderfully keen ally in choosing cos
hard tug meanwhile Somebody once said that
any any woman could dress another woman better
saw herself The same is much more true Of
brothers OF course the subject of this criticism
ar relief from the hattcry of the milliner and the
the other has the sole object of selling hats
one must not give the idea that felt shapes will
NOT be worn AT all this winter, for there several
charming models in felix's IA certain shade of golden
brown being particularly popular However. they
trimmings Of at velvet Rands and OR s, Sf brd w on
wngs-all of which suggest mourning wear. Some
smart hats OF this description have brims of beaver
VIII VII crowns OF velvet; plain or fancy. The combi-
nation OF two naterials in hat is the cachet Of
be "A great deal spoken of this autumn in describing
the modes 1t is a novelty land not "A becoming
onel mat has not been for several years and it
Is doubtful II one summers of il will exhaust
IT'S possibilities In the way of trimming Yet Nirot
does not show single bird # Paradise on a new
brought out this style of garniture in the early sum
er ana me mousse Is nauraIly rot using it the fol-
II Is always 4 little more dicui; to define rules
TOT mats than for gowns. The dressmakers seem
models; but each prominent nliner has his own
IDEAS; The safest hat to buy I'm carly September
would be- either on" OF tn" tOques here described
with RULED front brm lined with a bright color
or straight broad -brmmcd hat with peaked crown.
Elmer shape should be in velvet.
II H. hard to say anything about wraps yet.
one finds dozens Of new models. most of which
There are. perhaps, more Jackets with slightly
smaller sleeves. but one is forced conclude that
the sleeve as seriously have the couturieres.
The couiureres say that velvet Jackets fitted and
will be largely worn These s,ir, ST rich Trimmings
Of fiirs and appliqued embroidery. The dealers in
deep tabs often edged by a ruching of velvet that
holds the garment well over the shoulders withou,
sleeve has entirely ont in Paris II has trace
In the modes Of the moment: but the narrow Shout
sleev" il emphasized in the jackets at this. the
shoulder point Indications point toward the carry
according 10 present ndica lions so very much less
In fuln"ss than the capcs Of last winter.