The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1896-02-16
QUIET WILLIAMSBURG.
4 EEMNINT LETT ~ THE TRACK
or RECEDING YEARS. .
Impressions Of Kichmondcr on Visit to
the Historic Old Town-Wiliiam
and Mary College.

FloINa perhaps excepted, surely no
other par, OF the Atlantic seaboard can
claim more delightful weather than we
enjoy In eastern Virginia, from, say. the
last half OF September to the beginning
of the new year A bracing. but not harsh
Temperature. blue skies. mellow sunshine,
an exceptionally brilliant atmosphere and
ozone. laden AIR. present combination OF
desirable features not surpassed on this
side OF the Mississippi river.
Under just such choice conditions the
writer of this article set out to visit the
old. historical town OF Williamsburg. The
afternoon sun flooded the streets and
squares with warm. yellow radiance as
my cab ratified across the town zen route
10 the Chesapeake and Ohio depot, where
1 boarded the train. that stood tuning
and painting at the platform. a short IN
terval Of waiting, ami then we were
whirlcd past the fringe Of houses that
form @ suburb az that END % the town.
through tho deafening clatter ana utter
darkness Of the tunnel, out 10 the open
counry where the sere. frost-pinched
hcrbagc and donuded trees. though shOrn
of their sisfnruer array. were nevertheless
welcome TO eyes tired OF the city's brick
and mortar monotony.
Although the landscape had discarded
the brilliant colors Of earlier autumn Tor
tbs russell browns. soft srays, and cop
pery tints OF opening winter, IL looked
bright and glacs0me In the mellow NO
vcmber sunshine. nor Wa certain beauty
wanting. "a subduod. saddened beauty to
enhance the attraction OF the scene.
As the train sped onward IT crossed a
bridge thrown over an estuary Of the
Chickahominy river whcreupon wild
duck. alarmed al the rumble and aspect
Of the intruder rose from the black. SIN
water a. a flew swiftly away. As !
watched the pretty creature wing it's
vigorous fight TN out Of sight, thought
what queer juXtaposition OF things
antithetical was thus presented A
locomotive and train Of cars. implements
suggestive OF men and their busiest acuV-
titles. and this wild tenant OF wastes
ana waters. that winged navigator OF
trackless arr twiXt earth and sky How
strangely do We occasionally find thus
grouped things the most diverse ana dis-
connected.
AT WILLIAMSBURG.
After a run of something over two
hours a prolonged shrek from the loco
motive. the hrakemans hoarse call ana
the slowing down of the train announced
our arrival at Williamsburg. As j step
ned from the ears 10 the platform OF the
drowsy n,tlo station. there was little TO
suggest that I was in five minutes walk
Of what was once colonial capital,
where resided the representative oil En-
glands majesty and might, and too, the
whilom seat of the foremost college south
OF Ifason and piXons line. The two or
three scattered houses that ones first
sight Of the place affords look little like
the outpOsts of town or even a petty
village.
No porter or other henchman appearing
TO take my baggage ana guide me town.
ward. j was obliged 10 follow my nose
across an open space or common con-
ticuous TO which IS the main street or
williamsburg. thence a passing citizen
directed me TO the hotel, where | secur-
Ell requisite accommodation. This hotel
By the way. is boon 10 such of the
travelling public as business, curiosity or
other pressure land In Williamsburg. as
otherwise strangers would be reduced 10
the Objectionable necessity Of applying TO
private citizens for shelter and enter
taiumcnt. or else content themselves Win
a aypsy-likc "alprcsco' lodging.
When. next morning. after breakfast. !
emerged upon tho hotel veranda prepared
10 begin my investigation of this ancient
burg. the outlook was rather depressing
on neither hand, up or down the long,
unpaved street. or reading rather, was
there n sign Of life or LIES activities.
Not vehicle rolled past nor was u hu-
man being visible, Sabbath stiffness
relgned around unb-Okcn by the fall of a
human foOtstep. nor enliycned by the
sight OF "A passing pedestrian. II required
indeed. an effort Of imagination, an effort
hardly within scope Of imaginauons range
10 fancy bewigged and bcrufied cavaliers
as having ever strutted along that lone
come grass grown high street. nor indeed
was there aught I'm sight 10 suggest a
past of either civil or social dignity and
grandeur.
n any one idea IS more forcibly sug-
pested than another by the williamsburg
to-day h Is a state of trance OF coma.
And indeed In these feverish. over
stimulated FIN dc steele days this
epoch OF perpetual push off ever goadcd
strain. IL Is grateful and soothing 10 see,
il affords an interest unique and rare.
this ancient town, that for the best part |
of century has neither gained nor lost.
has neither advanced nor refrigerated. but !
remained in "statu quo untouched by
the currents that surgcd around 10, un-
rufiled by storms that elsewhere left |
marks deep and ineffaceable. Indeed there !
seems TO be something sedativc and |
dreamy. a takc-lfc-easy element i'm the I
air of williamsburg. that climate which |
IS exceptionally fine. seems 10 foster and /
promote. Located near enough TO salt |
water 10 get the benefit OF its mOdifying |
effects upon climate. but too far of 10 be- |
prciudiced by tho dampncss that incon- /
Ncnienccs localities. farther seward. ~ !
enjoys all the advantages, hut, BE- Mt /
by Objectionable features III
so q closer proximity. Thus So !
happens that during the major portion
OF each year the temperature IN OF a
bland enjoyable type that facilitates the
comfort and checrness of life.
DUKE OF YORK STREET
Arc not. then. people 50 fayorably
wise in their day and generation.
n practically they say "becone dun /
care and having food and raiinent con-
Ncnient withal. enjoy the goods the gods
Why. should they join in the
struggle and scramble for the dollar that
.nsures its votarics a life of ceaseless
work worry. anxiety. nervous tension
and little elecf It's promises arc no doubt
allurinp. but 10 how many do they ever
prove aueht but promises? when my
ship comes home" Is a saying familiar 10
every ear, but who of us all has ever |
seen that ship iu port.
Stroilng slowly up the high street till |
/ reached its intersection by another, the |
name OF which a signhoard told me. was
''Duke Of York street" 1 could but
smile How English and old World that
sounded. how different from the Madi-
ons and Monrocs the Franklins and JEFF
fergOns tho Cherries. and Pines. with
..ttI.. g.