Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1896-11-21

Short collarettes with high collars are
being sold, but the woman of limited means
would do well to avoid them, it Is not
likely they will be fashionable next year.
The short capes of grebe's breast are a
popular novelty and are very dressy, but
they are SO light in color that they are
hardly suitable for anything but evening
wear The black velvet caDes trimmed
with grebe are much more desirable.
In fact, trimmed capes more fash
ionable than the wraps made of one kind
of material Narrow bands of ermine are
used on seal. also sable and stone marten
"A seal cape has a broad. pointed yoke and
an immense haring collar of ermine, with
tiny band Of the same white fur around
the lower edge.
Some of the new capes have yokes of fur
with velvet flounce which is relieved
by white lace All wraps are furnished
with high collars that stand close to the
neck at first and then flare out to a point
almost even with the shoulders.
After all, the most satisfactory wrap of
the season is the loose jacket. Velvet jack
cts that 90 not fit are extremely dressy.
1 say do not fit. which means, of course.
that they have no waist l:ne, Dut hang loose
from the neck Some Of them are made
TO curve in at the sides, but all have the
loose front and Vatican back.
This years cloth coats are nearly all
made of smooth material, and the woman
ture carries the evidence of thrift upon
her back. Most of the new ones are trim
med with scrolls Of the same material
stitched down at the edges. All are lined
with figured taffeta.
Winter suits are being made Of cloth
with fur trimmings. Strips of fur run
down the front seams of skirts, and trim
the edges of jackets. A handsome velvet
skirt has panel of heavy brocade that Is
bordered with a wide band of fur. The
fur also runs around the bottom. An Eton
jacket is bordered all around the edge with
a anll Of fr,r
of the brocade passes under wide velvet
belt. The sleeves are tight-fitting, but flare
out In cone shape over the hand. A mar
row strip of fur runs up the outside seam
from wrist to shoulder, dividing the shoul-
der puff in halves.
Trimmed With Fur.
A street gown of green cloth made with
jacket fronts are faced with Persian lamb.
An elaborate street gown of golden brown
Lyons velvet is made with the Russian
blouse which was in favor some years ago.
1t has vest, collar and belt CT iyory-col-
ored leather embroidered in delicate shades
gold and spangles. The Russian jacket is
trimmed with narrow bands of marten,
which fur also appears on the skirt.
OF all the furs used in the garments
worn this year none is so beautiful as the
soft, gray chinchilla. Even sable is less
expensive. A strip of chinchilla two inch
es wide and one yard long rells for more
than s., while the same amount of sable
is something over 81.
Stone marttn is perhaps next in favor
and is much less expensive.
Hats trimmed with fur did not find favor.
but this was to be expected, for 1t has often
been tried before.
Although many colored felts and velvets
are on the market, the prevailing color for
the foundation of a hat is black and mil
linery in general is characterized rather by
harmony than by glaring contrasts of in
congruous colors.