New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1896-09-20

EVOLUTION OF A NETWORK DRESS
MAKER

trapping of her trade to mark her shop. 1t was
even more and exclusive in its air than the
most exclusive dwelling the fashionable avenue.
No glimmer OF trade in shape of gown bonnet
through the windows. Only doorplate.
such all NEWCOMERS in those days displayed
on their front doors told her In some cases
this plate trife large. but this was the only
way in which public notice could be attracted to the
house
Madame" as she chose 70 style herself was not
often a French woman. though she was usually CT
Celtic origin II Is necessary TO know something or
her antecedents in order 10 understand thoroughly
her phenomenal business success. She usually be-
gan her n shopgir or an apprentice 10 a
dressmaker in another Of the great drygoods
importing houses Her genuine business ability. her
/ shrewdness. her tact and her pleasant manners
| served TO carry her from one position to another
until she became the head OF her department and
had list OF all the regular customers OF the firm
and these in those days included all the fashionable
in the social world. for thrty-fve years ago
the best dressmaking Undoubtedly was done by
these importers.
Finally Madame became Partisan buyer for the
| firm and acquired a business knowledge OF the
! French market although she knew little or moth
! ing of the French language when she began As
! the buyer for so important firm she had careful
attention. and made many acquaintances that have
remained valuable In her own buciness.
Having secured enough customers. she launched
into business for herself She spent all her accumi-
! lated earnings and the gamut Of her credit TO
secure and TO furnish her house. She began her In
/ dependent career importer of special styles,
and at the same time manufacturer of polite
fiction. She not then. she is not to-day.
lavish buyer. and he goes TO Paris 10 pick up
special bargains
Many Of her models she buys direct OF the great
local importing houses she affects to look down
upon. She usually secures a large part Of the ex-
tensIve display she makes of the choicest French
dressgoods I'm this way The great manufacturers
of ST. Etienne and Lyons would smile at her small
purchases. They do not take orders for single
piece of kind OF goods. She is forced to depend
upon the comparatively small number OF great
American importers who buy the most costly goods
and in the largest quantities. and who supply the
stock of myriad of smaller, self-styled import
ers" who never send buyer abroad and who do
their importing entirely through these large hrms
Madame's trade is quite small in quantity compared
with the smallest Of the general drygoods houses.
who find 1t their advantage TO do their importing
ar second hand.
There are some seas sons when Madame never goes
near Paris but secretes herself in some backwoods
retreat and does all her importing at second hand.
On such occasions she is especially entertaining In
her small talk about Paris and Parisians. AS she is
an astute smuggler. the reports of the Custom
House frequently show. a Partisan trip when she
does take it is usually most remunerative invest
ment.
No one knows better than Madame the gullibility
| If the American woman. one tldS d. h''i
knowledge of her customers weaknesses as IL sne
u,cre 4 veritable Frenchwomln. There is one thing
above All others she detests and that Is the truth
She is wise enough 10 speak the truth. however
IN such customers as she dare not deceive ana she
has a few to whom she exhibits a charming frank
moss on such subjects as are or no special cohse-
ouence Her knowledge Of human nature teaches
her that her best course is to play the Duly with
| the majority OF women who are possessed OF ltte
| nersonal CHARM yet desire TO be attractive ana
.stvlish" She manages to impress the weak minus
among her customers with the fact that they "ouiu
be veritable guys but for her enorts IN '"eNi
! behalf.
| A, tho haoirninr the average fashionable dress
| ,aLsr &c conpeled to make such display OF rare
rugs and handsome furniture TO Keep up 'he APP
noarance Of her establishment, ana her custom Is
| "a limited that she must demand the most eAo'Oi
,ant nrces TO meet these expenses Ihls leaves "er
uith very little money with which 10 pay more
| over French houses with whom moreover she mas
| 49,. y limited credit The mystery deepens Ho" does
| ,bo mako such display of fine goods ana modes :
Tho solution is not far TO seek the Gay peioi'
Madame sends out her dainty cards to her exclusive
| ..onenjngs" she orders ION approDaOon 9
ces of the finest goods to suit her purpose from
number of importing houses, when she Is liPo'
| o,oueb customer to receive attention ny INC
| ,tr,e oil her orders have arrived she can ul'pa'
| ouite a brilliant array OF imported ho'ei'ieS'
Indictment these goods she has regular import
| ers, hook of samples. These goods she asSuies "e'
| customers are In the Custom House. , -
| "It was so unfortunate she explains my
| - 80 l.to " and her finest Lyons novelties, MADE
| rasslv for her which the manufacturers nave
| promised not 10 duplicate, are there IN S"e'e
"onarinrr Madame frequently secures ORDERS
| - purchase all the stock she mas ooilo"eu ~
! annrobation' and make handsome pron' Oh '''e
venture 1t is not an uncommon 'h'ns ~ w
| ,odo, dress in one Of these establishments at 'he
|
! = Iar,o sbon on one OF the avenues. Sometimes II
&c identically the gown. and the shop was '"e
| ir,norter Madame shrewdly argues 10 herse'i '"a'
bor customers will never visit the stores wneh she
| secures models on this side. ana that lheS w no'
know enough OF goods TO recognize the same idDos
! in the stores even when they see them
| short insnection OF one of Madames bills VIII
show how with limited number OF customers she
can meet the enormous expenses she oI'eh iiOui'
for rent and her menage. with It's hverleo servants
and for the costly gowns OF trailing MORE III WHO"
| che arrays her own person in order TO make her-
self more awe-inspiring TO timid customers. "heh
sb obtains cloth AT importing house II is no ex
aegeration 10 say she charges her customers TWO or
three times as much for IL as the merchant does IN
he retail department of his shop; and 1t is assumed
| that ne makes fair profit on ms safes one aLso
arc actually used. This gives her Il proht OF from
300 TO No per cent on what she mas eNperueu: lnen
| itemized except in rare In fashionable
| dressmakers establishment this Will average from
no $40 where SILK llillllbS uooN
he hi for making" which in frst-cass establish
nents Is seldom less than $50 and much higher II
s asv 70 see that with clear gain OF from $40 10
| iin mr. more for a single gown Madame can make
BRETT profit If she furnishes several hundred gowns
during the season. On the other hand II mas Deeh
Estimated that the cost of keeping dressmakins es-
- seldom less than $4,000 year. Then the ac-
counts have long to run. and Fashionable milliners
srd drassmakers often lose their wholesale discount
| nv being unable TO meet their bills In sixty days
,,i;ties who are not obliged sublet the upper
nsrts OF their houses IN order reduce their eN-
nenses Even then their profits are not excessive
sftor ali bills are paid and losses deducted.
! For some unknown reason. American customers