The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-04-12


though never inconstant. takes I'D with
delight the Persian patterns in dressgoods.
just as sterner and not less variable
man, having for long used such airy
and beautiful designs in his neckwear, dis
cards them for the paler and more inef-
fectual drabs and sickly hues Of that
sort.
1t is a popularity which the philosophers
have long noticed that, when women will,
man will not. A famous caricature in
the old days of "a represented two con-
trasting styles; in one a woman with
scanty skirts, hugely distended sleeves
and gainesborough hat of monumental
area. stood beside a thin shoulderer gal
liant with voluminous unmentionables. In
another picture, my lady of the Jent-shap-
ed hoop skirts was flirting desperately
with another gallant, or perhaps the same,
whose legs were tightly clothed but whose
rough coat was padded at the shoulders
to an immense size. This principle is TO
rule in 1896, it would seem, for alongside
of the simple browns and grays of mems
suitings for April, 96, unmarked as they
are by such large checks and eXtrava-
gances as past years have seen, womans
garb shines more rainbOw-like than ever.
The republic is opportunity" its chief
justice says; and the fashion opportunity
widens its horizon every month, for every
month fairly pretty fabrics are cheaper
and more plentiful, and every month, too,
brilliant colOrs, more cunning weaves and
especially more fabulous prices are spread
before the bewildered gaze of the woman
who hesitates, and, hesitatng, is lost. The
evolution of the flOwer-tint and cobweb
hlament garbing of to-day out of the dun
cold webs of even ten years ago is like
the bursting of the butterfly from its
The rainbow glory Of the April streets
when the sun glints warm against the
brown stone walls impresses the beholder
somewhat as a waving field of flowers.
There are in it, seen in the mass, the bril-
Nancv of the tulips, the delicacy of violets,
the grace of lilies, even the lines Of cool
ferns and frontage, all swaying, changing,
passing, re-passing until the street be-
comes like Kaleidoscope which Is never
at rest and IN whose magic mirrors each
tone picture breaks, even as 1t is FORM
ing. into another as beautiful and as eva
nesCeut.
Shall we try to pluck from his garden
a tiny handful of blossoms?
There is the emphasis Of cardinal flow
or in August in short red cloth jacket,
its seams outlined IN gllt braid ana
buttoned with five gilt buttons.
There is the tint Of Violets IN a pnr-
brim, narrower behind than in front, is
covered all with purple and lavender
tulle. and culled from the garden OF the
mOdiste, JacqueminOt roses peep from
their green leaves and from big pufts OF
tulle.
There is the greenish yellow or yellowish
green of the grass of sunshine study
by Chase in the material Of grass
linen costume. whose plain full SKIRT
fails like gossamer over an old rose SILK
foundation. The waist Is embroidered
in old rose, the sleeves are full and stop
AT the elbow, decked at the shoulder Wfth
old rose taffeta silk in such form that
one would think butterfly had nSnted
upon the roses in the greenish yellow
grass; and the silk combined with passe-
menterie of white and gold, forms the
yoke. Need one add that grass linen
gowns over silk foundations of each hue
Of the rainbow are foremost IN IaVor.
There are flowers again of delicate
pink, scattered over a white gown OF
Persian silk where from one dainty tea
gown is fashioned with its vatican
back ending in a demi tram, anu WIN
its sleeves finished with wide cream lace,
which is brought over the shoulders ana
falls full to the knees. l.,
There is the tint seen only in some
ewes that are fair to look upon, ana IN
the tiny duets which dot the dry sac
hills Of summer in a blue brilliantlne
with a full skirt and short jacket whose
wide revers open over white vest EN-
broidered in gold, and whose wide rolling
cuffs are brave with the same gilt prettl-
There are again the purple violets and
again the pink roses and green leaves,
the former on the brim and the latter on
me crown of a medium sized hat which,
like many of the hats OF the sprlilg'
shades well over the face and rising be-
hind let's the sun kiss the Wearef 5 mar:
Over the Violets of the brlm Is ven OF
green tulle, and at the back there are
soft loops of it with white tulle SHINING
T6eTe is a nasturtium colored hat with
a Tam o. Shanter crown, around which
coils a soft twist of black spangled net.
on the right side are grouped Ialse
chrysanthemums with yellow centers
and shaded grasses. -.
And which of all the hats is the favor
i+e? which of all the colors will be most
worn? If one is to judge by the example
one sees, it will be that tint least OF an
becoming TO the average face, purple.
Never have 1 seen so many purple hats,
or so many hats partly purple, or with
purple predominating in their deeoratlon.
There will be many women whose NE Is
to them anything but pleasure, because
of this purple shade upon the landscape OF
their lives-until presto! change!
One of the prettiest effects of the spring,
especially adapted TO thin faces with the
sharply accentuated features Whlch ar
lists and photographers love 10 pose, Is
the lace tie of such hue that, when
brought from the rear of the tiny toque
down across the hair on either side, Just
beneath the ear and the chm ana khotteu
in a bow, shall frame the race as II were a
Picture hats we have long known. We
shall begin to speak OF picture gowns
/. indeed, have so named one of those
creations whose skirt is family lined with
perpendicular stripes and dotted with clus-
ters of tiny flowers, and which is far more
emphatically marked across the upper
sleeves and across the vest front with
bars of dark ribbon from each OF which
falls a narrow friH of dotted lace Inc
jacket of such a gown has the inevitable
outward curve at the hips, a curve more
decided than that upon golf stick
There is a pretty fashion this year in
cheaper ready made dresses, as well as in
more expensive ones. The serge outing
suits, whose skirts and jackets have been
Tor long of the same color and material,
may now be-should now be, perhaps-of
related, but different color; and the skirt
of the two is the lighter For instance,
plain skirt of blue and white checks, just
the size of babys finger nail; oyer which
a wide lapelled jacket all of dark blue
"a 81 rE n
trimmed with several rows of little silver
buttons. three in a row, down the skirt
behind and with silver braid.
New sleeves. it may be noted have not
vet achieved suZerainty, or even extended
their sphere of influence over the coat or
wrap. Here the big squash or mandolin
sleeve is as much in evidence as ever,
even upon the smartest of the smart
Gowns, those, you know, with the cunning