The San Francisco call., 1896-08-30

sleeves, which fitted the arms closely and
were finished with the puckered lace. A
choker, having the plain linen as fouuda-
ton, was completely covered with lace.
The Geisha parasol is in high favor. 1t
is of pagoda form, the ribs being 1attened
out at the edges, SO as to advantageously
show lining of bouillonne chiffon or soft
silk, finished in many cases with hounce
of fine old lace. The covering is of plain
or chine silk, without any trimming, all
elaboration being reserved for the lining,
which is usually of contrasting shade.
One much admired was covered with white
corded silk and has a lining of the latest
azure blue chiffon, and another of chine
silk covered with large sprays Of pink roses
scattered over white ground has rose
pink chiffon lining. One Of the advantages
of this shape is that when shut the fat
tened edges of the ribs turn back sufh-
GENTLY to show fowerlike glimpses of the
lining. The makers have used with much
success handles of colored mother-of-pearl
tinted pink, blue or a beautiful delicate
shade of mauVe. OF course the handle is
chosen so as to harmonic with the cover
ing, and Dresden handles of unusually
lovely designs are still employed.
A Paris correspondent writes: "Spun-
glass sunshades are the latest novelty
here. Many of my readers may hear of
this with some amusement; as spun glass
does not seem to represent material
from which any kind of an umbrella may
be manufactured. Such is, however, the
case, and very pretty if rather perishable
they are, these glistening creations, so
light and airy and original. How the
glass is spun for the purpose it is not for
me to say, but 1t is treated in such a
fashion that it can be folded without
breaking, as, for the matter of that, it is
woven loosely it is true, but still woven,
in the same manner as canvas, with big
meshes, and is to be obtained in pale tints
of extreme sh;niness, which seem to have
imprisoned thousands of sunrays betwixt
their tiny, silky threads"
And in Newport so gay are the parasols
that they can only be compared to "gigan-
tic flowers" Another noted at Newport
of corded white silk had q rich founce Of
Maltese lace, dainty heading OF white
gauze and lovely ivory stick and handle
mounted in embossed gold, the graceful
design run half way up. 1t had gilt
frame tipped with points of dead gold.
If you can find a remnant of green and
blue shot silk that will harmonic we'll
with your cloth secure it promptly, as this
com bination is likely to continue to be the
fashion all winter. The blue I refer to is
the rich royal blue, and the green is grass
green. To return to my subject. The tailor
gown having been secured, the matron,
belle and debutante who can afford a
handsome visiting toilette will at once
start on an interesting tour of inspection,
but exactly what they will see l cannot
yet say, as the goods are slowly arriving,
but many are the careful shoppers who,
during the season of sales, have
secured rich and lovely materials
that will excite the envy and admiration
Of many of their friends ere long. That
gray is to be fashionable is an assured
fact, and one wise young wife purchased
last month quite an extensive piece of the
finest gray cloth for mere song, it being
considered short length, and it would be
were not large sleeves doomed Later this
little woman purchased lovely piece of