The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1896-03-13

months to come. There is wisdom i'm
compromises.
The new sleeve slopes unwillingly at
the elbow. except in extreme evening
cut, and even at the wrist tends to be-
come very long, according to the we'll
known rule that things never stay as
they are, but get more so; and this will
be the golden opportunity for wearing
out any short gloves one may happen to
have about. The golden age of sim
plicity in which the one, two or three
button glove was worn seems dawning
again in the rosy east. For time
woman's arms will look very long and
lean in the new sleeve, but the cross
wrinkling will temper the gale of criti-
cism, and in the meantime is not Lent
the golden period for cultivating q
plumper biceps?
Ii the average woman shows will
lngness to compromise upon the small
sleeve, or even to adopt it outright, since
ii is mode that suits her well enough.
on another point she is more firm--she
will not take kindly to the draped
skirt, and rightly, because it does not
woman is neither so tall nor so slender
as the tailor's model, and has no mind
TO draw across her moderate stature
the modest lines of self-effacement No
mode was ever SO becoming to the av-
erage, loveable. plump little women, as
the plain, long skirt, and it is still not
only the rule but almost the unvarying
rule. The whole history of fashion
seems to be an unending struggle of tall,
slim women trying to force modes suit.
able to themselves upon sho1 plump
women. And you can never tell when
the latter are about ia submit meekly.
and when to rebel.
Some of the dressmakers are drawing
in the seams of their sleeves by degrees,
fearing lest some future wave of fancy
may beat back the advancing tide. Per
haps they are wise. especially in the
matter of outdoor garments. Spring
raiment, like the flowers that brave the
SNOW, makes most frequent use of SHARP
color contrasts and conservative cut
The newest velvet coat falls but to
the hips, where it turns out jauntily
Its sleeves are of modest size and made
OF light, loose cloth to match the gown.
And there are straps of the velvet
upon the cloth sleeves and-to be per.
fectly fair-straps of cloth down the
velvet front and about the collar These
straps of sharply different tone are most
distinctive of the season. In evening
gowns of the filmiest texture we have
had them of velvet or even of feathers
or fur. They are now to be dragged
outdoors. where they are quite as ap
rropriBte.
Another device of the velvet wor-
Slippers is to make broad ones ply
lactery of it, to hang upon jacket front
two huge ound-bottomed lapels. look
ing combined like big black lung
shield. This effect is relieved by elab-
crate embroidery upon the velvet, but
the net result is not reassuring. Bod
ices of spring gowns have often bell
muzzled sleeves belching smoke of
lace, high ruff collars and profusion
of tabs and straps down the front most
martial to behold.
Some of the spring hats are hints to
recollection. One shape recalls the tur-
han, of hateful memory, disguised
though it be with a great black velvet
rosette and black plume on the side.
Another more coquettish shape, with
veil and lace and egret. has almost the
form Of derby with much curved