San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1896-08-16

top of a hill we reached fine ranch,
or hacienda Atzeca de Guadalupe.
After q brief rest we passed onward.
We had considerable heavy climbing,
but our way led'through magnificent
forest that charmed the senses and
eased the monotony and fatigue of the
| journey. 1t was 7:30, nearly dark,
when we reached the famous ranch of
Tlamaca, and it was impossible to go
further that day. We had to stay
here for the night. l hardly know
why this place is called a ranch. 1t
may be because it is one of the many
has beens" of Mexico, but now it is
a ruinous place, used mainly by the
sulphur gatherers who get sulphur out
of the volcanic crater. All the way
along we had been rising until now we
are 1900 feetSabove the sea level,
nearly twice as high as this city, and,
of course, as we rose we got colder.
Huge fires were lighted and we sup
ped. We also sampled the spirits and
| it straight, and though attired in
| heavy capped and hood, overcOat, wool
en- suit, three sets of underwear, two
pair of wooden socks, and heavy boots
and gloves, and covered by two good
blankets, was chilled to the bone,
and if it had not have been for that
good old Canadian Club and Martell's
Three STAR" the cold would have
been unbearable. We managed, how
ever, to get to sleep, and were awaken
ed early next morning. We partook
of breakfast and at 8 in the morning
we commenced the real ascent of the
volcano, which has to be done on foot.
For the journey we were armed with
an alpenstOck, a heavy pole with iron
point, and pocket pistols, of whisky
and cognac. A mazo carried the re-
serve supply of spirits and refresh
ments, and you can safely bet we
kept an eye on him. All before us
| was destitute of any sign of yegita-
| ton, and for over an hour we had to
plough through sand about a foot
| thick. 1t was rough, l can tell you,
but thank goodness, it was safe
There was less chance of falling, and
| if you did fall it was on a soft bed.
| Then we came to the snow line, and
| it was here that we met the worst part
of the trip. The guide preceded us,
made steps for us, and in those steps
we followed. We found that his
strong arm was useful, and so was our
alpenstocks, for they saved us from
many an awkward fall. 1t was a
rough tramp, but we reached the
crater at 8 o'clock, so it had taken us
| four hours to travel from Tlamacus.
So here we were at last about 1900
feet above the level of the sea. To
realize what that means the reader
| has only to remember that San An
tonic, high and day, and she is only
about 800 feet, and PopOcatepl is
about 1920 feet higher. The rari-
fed air had now it's full effect, the
heart beat faster, the blood coursed
faster through the veins, and there
was a difficulty of breathing. 1t was
right here that alcohol and good food
was necessary.
| At the top there was not much to see
or that repaid the trouble except the
magnificent scenery. There was snow
all around, and in some places small
lakes of delicious ice water that was
nothing less than melted snow. 1t
was as clear as crystal, pure and re-
| feshing.
| The crater was inactive and was be-
ing worked by a gang of men for its
sulphur, and seems to be a vertiable
hades, and its internal forces are so
| great at times as to shake up the
whole of the City of Mexico. To de-
scend into the crater you have, like the
sulphur workers, to be let
| down in bucket or basket, and de-
cided to stay Oh top.
But is was frightfully cold, our
teeth chartered and we were chilled
through, and we had all the effects of
raritied air, but we were ravenously
hungary. We ate a hearty breakfast,
took several rips of whisky and felt
like another man.
Then we began to revel on the seen
cry. Usually a grand view is got at
the crater, of the City of Mexico, the
great valley that surrounds it, and of
Puebla. Indeed miles of the most beau
tiful scenery that ever delighted the
eye of man is generally laid open to
his view. Looking in the direction of
this city We were disappointed to find
that it was covered by thick haze,
and only faint, indistinct outline
| could be seen. Puebla, that quaint,
old, historic town, was plainly visible,
and what we did see was well worth
the trouble, fatigue and expense Of the
journey.
Then we commenced the descent.
oh, that as dead easy, in fact far too
easy, as found to my cost. The only
trouble was climbing on the snow.
However, we got safely back to Tia
macas, and, taking horses, reached
Santa Maria in time to catch the night
train to Puebla, where we stayed at
night and next day made a pleasant
trip home.
This journey is pleasant, healthy,
exhilerating and instructive, even
though fatiguing. 1t takes four days
to accomplish it, but of that time you
spend two half days in Puebla and
have a good chance of seeing the city
in all it's many attractions. The cost
for railroad fare, horses, guides, etc,
is from $50 to $25, exclusive of re-
freshmnets, that is in Mexico silver.
And the trip is certainly worth all 1t
| costs. rH