St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1896-01-26
KATHRYN kIDDERs GOWNS.
They Are Made by Pnauin, ana Are
Msrvels of Costly Elegance.

The generous costumes and jewels
worn by the members of the ''Mme Sans
Gene" company form no insignificant
part of the magnificent production.
Kathryn Kidder's gowns, on which
fabulous amount has been spent, are
the creations of Paquin, who is in the
first rank of Partisan milliners. They
are absolutely correct from an histori-
cal point Of view, besides being made of
the richest stuffs that money could pur-
chase. The simple gown which Miss
Kidder wears in the prologue which de-
rlcts stormy period in Napoleon's ca
reer, is the regulation costume of the
French laundry girl of that time 1t is
intended to have the effect from the
front of the house of blue and white
glngham, but in reality is made of rich
STUFF goods, lined with white silk. The
little cutaWay jacket has a peasant front
of soft white null, with undersleeves of
the same, which can be tucked I'D at
VIII into a soft roll at her elbow as she
Dusty washes. An immense ruffled
apron and wide, fiat cap finish the gown.
Whlle a peculiar little lavender silk
wrap worn with it serves to show the
odd combination Of coloring in the dress
OF the lower classes of that period. 1t
is plated to fit the neck, forming a
round cape in the back, with two long
points in front tied with black ribbon
strings. The popularity of this costume
IS the trlmness about the waist, indica-
i've OF french peasant and washer
girls neatness in dress. The sinners
are according to the style of that date.
placF leather, with a buttoned strap
over the instep and broad steel buckles.
- Nineteen years later sees Madame Sans
Gene the duchess of Dantzic, wife of Mare
chal Leteovre of France, and it is in an ex-
quislte deshabille creation of Madame Stauf
Iers that MISS kidder appears first of all as
tne duchess, when surrounded by court mil
liners, W1g-makerS and boot-makers she no
gins to try on the magnificent dresses sent
Tor her approval This dishabille consists of
a long chemise of India null and delicate
, Saienc,ennes lace OF alternate stripes fin
lshed at the bottom with innumerable floun-
ces OF the lace. The upper part is an orange
Satln empire corset, edged with a wide lace
oertha, and fastened up over the shoulders
with wide orange satin ribbons. Over this
is worn peculiarly shaped dressing sacoue
OF the period, made of orange-colored satin
with wide ruffles of point d'Alencon lace.
. one OF these gowns brought to be fitted to
the duchess of Dantzic in this scene is a
riding habit of yelowish green cloth. with
vide collar of black silk and black collarette
cravat. A little Spanish Jacket of chamois
skin with leg o-mutton sleeves and trimmed
with appliqued points of the green cloth,
fits over this, and a small beaver hat. which
made to order. costs all of $50 in Paris, COM
pletes this altogether odd and fetching cos
tune.
III, III the great second act and court scene
Miss Kidder has chosen cream white lustre-
less satin, which is truly Napoleonic in rich
ness ana Splendor, and it is safe to saw no
more magnificent stage gown has ever been
with a train fully three yards long. covered
with almost. solid hand embroidery in gold
silver, pearls and iridescent spangles The
pattern is an oak leaf which forms climb
ing vine around the edge of the low-cut bod
ice, headed by gold and silver cord The
high Directoire collar is of white net heav-
cd in cold
In this the same leaf-like pattern prevails
Four rows of big pearls fastened by diamond
clasps is what the Duchess wears for neck
lace and a small tiara of diamonds crowns
her red gold hair.
The court mantle. which forms part of this
costume COSTUME during the court reception, is of
shade. One entire afternoon was spent bv
Miss kidder, her friends and miIIiners in
choosing the exact and historical shade of
red, and by studying a description of one of
Empress Josephine's gowns it was finally Sc
cured. The mantle reaches to the edge of
the three-yard train and has border of gold
hand embroidery twelve inches wide
After removing this mantle. and vb,1s
Madame Sans Gene is recovering from the
fatigue of her first formal reception to The
court Emperor Napoleon sends for her, and
telling his messenger to wait until she gets
on wrap, she dons most exquisite mantle
of turquoise blue velvet, lined with white
satin and ermine, with immense cape and
high plated collar of ermine The effect of
lightning flashing across a blue sky is nro.
duced by seams of steel spangles running
lengthwise of the mantle and ending at the
bottom in cluster of steel oak leaves.
The shoes worn with the gown are without
heels and made of white undressed Kid tieI
with white satin ribbons.
Miss Kidder has searched history and
France to have the smaller details of
Madame Sans Genes wearing apparel chron-
ologically correct, such as shoes. pearl
handled and hand-painted fans, and even
genuine Empire corsets, one of pink corded
silk being trimmed with Valenciennes lace.