The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1896-09-30
he reasons may be, the hat Is here and
in nc uncertain a


Thea cloak manufacturing season has
now advanced to such an extent that a
pretty defini fdea can de formed as to
what fashions will prevail. The larger
proportion of orders placed so far are
on jackets, of which there are numberless
v~arities, the principal and most popular
shapes being those with loose double
breasted fronts and high collars.
In this make OF coat there are certain
essential points necessary to make the
garment conform to the desired fashion
aside from which slight changes of cut
ting and decoration give the variety.
These points are seemingly that the col
lar is high, the skirt show plaits. and
the sleeves have a small, shapely APP
pearance with puff at top.
A popular method Of making is embrac-
ed in the following description: Material
is marine blue boucle Of very rough face:
the coat front is cut in a separate piece
from the side forms and is outlined by a
double row of machine stitching. giving
the effect of a strapped edge. The front
is attached to the coat by a row of
buttons and ~buttonholes on each side. The
collar is high and fiaring, slashed in the
back and faced with velvet: the centre
back. also in one piece. is set on to match
the finish OF front, the fulIness of skirt
forming three box plaits. The sleeves are
cut to AVE a small appearance to the top.
where a Medium fullness droops to form
a slight pun
The sample lines of fashionable loose
coats are made in plain kerseys in tans.
green's, blues, blacks and some browns.
These are with covered or braided seams,
or fhoU ara Of r0trch chautof ho11olac and
Astrakans in similar shades or fancy mix
lures.
Among the lines embracing novelties the
distinctive features are more generally
in the cutting and putting together Of the
various forms which go to make up the
Jacket than In the shape itself. For in
stance where generally the garment would
be cut out of the whole cloth in it's var
ious pieces with regular edges, this sea-
sons styles frequently call for extension
of scrolls, points, ETC.. which are Tapped
onto the combined form. These new ideas
are often catchy and stylish and add TO
the curves and lines of the wearer's fig
ure. A Jacket shown by one house which
illustrates this idea has the one-piece CEN
tire back and the side back seams cut
to extend into wide points Stimulating a
fancy shaped yoke. the outside point of
which hangs out over the top of the
sleeves, while the front, which is of EN-
pire effect set onto a yoke, is shaped to
match. Tiny sequins of pearl trim each
point.
It Is probable that there are more wom-
en- who are obliged to manufacture their
own gowns than there are those FORUM
ate enough to be able to pay sufficient
to ave them built by a first-class artistic
in this line.
Every woman who calls herself a
'dressmaker'' is by nc means one. Not
at least in the sense that other women
apply TO the word, as so many other
women find out to their sorrow after an
experience of spoiled goods and indiffer-
ently-made garments.
That very many women try to manu-
facture their own dresses, at least the
skirts, Is self-evident, as witness the
aforesaid skirts. That just as many
know very little about the art is just as
evident. as the same garments also wit
ness.
l ave called dressmaking an art, and
1t is nothing less. At the same time it Is
simple enough whea one becomes pos
sessed of a few necessary hints or first
principles OF the work.
Then almost any woman can do very
creditable work: or can. with the help of
the numerous excellent patterns manage
to look exceedingly stylish.
1 asked a fashionable dressmaker yes
terday to give me some few hints about
her art that would help women in a prae-
tical way.
zone of the first things to be observed
in cutting is the laying on of the pat
terms" she answered.
In the cutting OF a skirt have the
straight edges very true 10 the straight
weave OF the goods. Take great care not
to pull the bias edges. Right here is a
little secret thaf IL not known win cause
the bias seamsi OF your skirt to bob up
or down, as is seen so often.
T prevent this buy at the drygoods
store a quantity Of tape. the sort called
curling or straight woven. To every bias
edge OF your skirt haste a length of tape.
Basic 10 to the goods before the lining is
put on. and the when basting up the
seams endeavor to take the necessary
stitches in the centre of this strip of tape
That outlines the bias edges of the skirt.
When sewing with the machine. stitch
50 as to catch it in the same place.
Another point: When you are basting
your skirt begin at the top, basting down
ward to the hem, holding a straight edge
toward you, especially when it joins a
bias one or a gore.
After the seams have all been Joined
by the machine, finish the placket. then
put on the band. All this is done before
the skirt is finished about the hem. Then
with a tape carefully measure every
seam the length desired and trim off even
ly, and finish IN any way desired.
Great care should be taken in finishing
the hem of a gored skirt that it is not
pulled out of shape. This spoils the ..seto
or hang" of the garment.
When the hem has been finished remove
all hastings and they should be many.
Press very thoroughly. The best result in
pressing is gotten when a bare board is
used with an iron hot enough, but not
one that will discolor. or cause the goods
to smoke.
Press the seams of a skirt upward; very
evenly and fatty open.
The hem or binding should be pressed
by lifting the iron from one space to an
other, not by pushing or ironing.
l pracc fhoro,.ohfxr ~, 49, -.