The record-union., 1896-03-21

ried through the wilderness, and in
fact, all of that splendidly dyed cloth
which is spoken of in the history Of
those days, was rame. 1t is named
linen in the Bible and books, and /
often wondered how it was that linen
could be dyed in those glorious colors.
when / saw the brilliant cloths of
old Egypt and Greece in the Art Mu-
suem in Central Park, New York, I
came to the conclusion that they were
not woven of fax or cotton, but of ra-
mie, for cotton is comparatively mod
ern product, and was not known or used
much among the anci ents.
''I drew my conclusion from the fact
that no fiber takes color with more
avidity than ramie. 1 have demon
strated that fact by hundreds of exper-
iments with both animal and vegetable
fibers. The finest wool is not more sus-
ceptible to color, and silk is not dyed as
easily or permanently as ramie, and the
reason is that ramie fiber is pure cell
luloSe, and, of course, is more Suscepti-
bic to color than any other vegetable
| fiber
| 1.-The process of removing the woody
parts of ramie is called 'decorticating,
and formerly this was done by hand,
| the result being a collection of long,
greenish- h-colored rods about as thick as
a knitting needle.
ga machine was recently made in
| New Orleans which does this, and it
will do the ework of nineteen men, but the
real trouble, that oT 'degumming,'
comes after A Frenchman and Aus
trian have invented chemical processes
which degum the fiber, and they have
been so successful that the long staple
is sold at from 40 to so cents a pound
and the short fibers, or waste material
| from the combs, called 'noils, sell FOR IA
to 10 cents. The noi1s are used for
mixing with woods, and serve the pur-
pose, for it mixes and takes color well.
Most of the chemical processes used
| in degumming the fiber weaken 1t. This
does not appear at first, but the weak
ness makes itself manifest in from four
to six months, when the cloth falls to
pieces. / believe that within ten years
ramie will begin to take its rightful
place as the first of vegetable fibers
and the time may be shortened, for
many scientific men arc working on the
problem
Another expert on ramie fiber in ex-
planning the methods of extracting the
fibers said that ramie machines are di-
vided into two general classes-"de-
| lignators,' or simple k-strippers,
and "decorticators, which are sup
posed not only to remove the bark, but
| to remove the outer pellicle or epidermis
and the layer of cellular matter which
covers the fiber layer proper as well.
The bark strippers produce the fiber
| in fat ribbons, only taking off the wood
of the stalk. They do this with knives
which split the stalks before they are
subjected to the breaking and beating.
| The decorticators first crush the stalk
by means of rollers, afterward present
| ing the f1attened stalks to the beating
and breaking devices, and then comb
| the fiber before it is delivered to the
discharging apron.
| In the best of decorticators the fiber
| If the ramie is treated while green,
comes out not as fine, light and clean
as China grass, and If the ramie is dry
the fiber is soft enough to spin into
coarse cordage without further manip-
ulation.
The after process and manufacture of
ramie is the sticking point with manu-
/ facturers. The gum which holds the
fbers together, unlike the gum in fax,
| is not soluble in water, SO that it can
not be removed by the simple process
of "retting" with water, as is done with
flax. The "degumming' process in the
case of ramie requires chemical ma
nipulation, for the gums must be wash
ed out and dissolved without attacking
the cellulose.
| When the gums are dissolved the
epidermis can be detached and mechan-
ically separated from the fiber by wash
| ing, and then the fiber can be heckled,
spun and woven as flax, cotton or wool
are worked.
Every man who has taken up the
study of ramie, whether he be farmer,
manufacturer, chemist or botanist
! declares that the man who finds the
| key to the successful practical manipu-
latfon of ramie will open a treasure
chest.
| There seems to be no limit to the pos
| sibilities of this marvellous fiber, for it
can be manufactured into goods for
mems wear, upholstery, laces, curtains,
| embroideries, velvets and plushes,
| stockings, underclothing, damask,
handkerchiefs, shirtings, sail duck,
sheetings. carpets, ropes, cords, fish,
| ing nets, thread for sewing and a hum
| dred other things.-Chicago Record.