The Monitor-register., 1896-05-22

ink al U U ciocA tno tuoTemOmetef regis
tered rs degrees. Immediately after
breakfast we took the cars for Bogwalk,
20 miles distant, only a small village.
We then walked 8 miles into the country
to enjoy and see the beautiful tropical
vegetation. We visited the little huts of
the natives and saw the coffe ebush in full
bloom. l secured a coffee bush which came
after much difficulty and delay. The dew
was very heavy and the weather splendid.
We returned again to the village and took
a 10 mile ride to Spanish town. the former
capital of Jamaica. The scenery for g
miles was beautiful between high noun
tains and along the Rio Cobra, or Black
river, as tine natives call it, q heavy
mountain stream larger than Chickies
creek: l cannot find words to describe
the grandeur of the scenery along this
ride. l saw women breaking stones for
the road. and getting only ten cents per
barrel. l saw many c~ocoanut palms
ladened with nuts, and at our request
| the natives climbed the trees with great
agility and graciously gave us the nuts.
We found the milk very sweet and cool.
After leaving the river we found the
| county more level. The residences were
| good and were fenced in with wild pine
apples and cactus.
Spanish town has a population of
5000, and c~ontnins many public institu-
tions and a large statue of George Rydge
Rodney. There is the government build
ing and the church. over 800 years old,
surrounded by a large grave yard, where
it could be plainly seen by the broken slabs
what the earthquakes had done; in the
town also by the cracked walls. The
own is going to ruin since the seat of
government was moved to Kingston.
Returning by rail we came around by a
large irrigation canal, which fertilizes the
plain between the two towns.
Kingston, with q population of 4O0, 600,
is now the capital of the island. 1t has
large barracks, many government build
ings, a large square called "Parade," and
| splendid residences. Among the latter is
the governors residence, surrounded by
a large park, s%plendidly kept in it's full
tropical beauty. The lower part of the
city is very dirty, more so than in any
place l had been. The markets are
large, representing a lively and interest
ing scene. Fol a distance of from 90 to
80 miles mostly women can be seen car
rying heavy loads on their heads or lead
ing a donkey. by a rope, loaded full of all
kinds of fruits and vegetables.
We left towards evening on March 9th
for Havana, 1855 miles distant. The
weather was beautiful and the tempera-
ture from IA to rs degrees at 6 a. m. On
March 7th at 2 p. m, we passed Cape San
Antonio. Cuba, and at 5 O'Clock We were
in the Gulf of Mexico in a very smooth
sea. Next morning early the land of
Cuba was again in sight, but no ship or
gunboat could be seen along the coast.
On March 9Th at $50 O'Clock, with a
temperature of rs degrees, we slowly
entered the harbor of Havana. The guns
of Mora Castle could plainly be seen with
a few soldiers on the parapet. But what
surprised us most was that no men-of-
war nor gun boats were in the harbor;
only large piles of cannon balls laying at
the entrance in the harbor. Great activi-
ty prevailed, many ships and steamers
loading and unloading.
We anchored at 8 a. M, and in a short
time were taken ashore in small boats.
1t was Sunday with beautiful weather. 1t
appeared to us that every person followed
their weekday pursuits and all were gay
and happy. The houses and business
places were gaily decorated with bunting
in honor of the recent landing Of large
bodies of Spanish soldiers. We met
many soldiers whose appearance indicated
that they never saw service. They were
not sunburnt and many appeared to be
very young. For a war on the island
there was little activity or war-like
preparation in the city, but as much as
we could understand by the last success
of the Cubans, the Spaniards would have
very little show in the city.
I The population is $50. 600. The houses
are low with fat roofs and massively con.
structed, with architecture common to
Southern Spain. The parks and squares
are beautiful. The great Plaza de Amas
is the finest. 1t has four parks with a
large statue of Ferdinando VII. Pasco
de Taron is a magnificent driveway along
which are double rows of palms. There
are many columns and statues, among
the latter is one of Charles III, which
ranks among the finest art in America.
The business part of the city is clean, but
the outskirts, however, very filthy. The
sewerage is bad and all empties into the
harbor. The odor is very offensive. The
markets are large with al abundance of
meat, vegetables, fish and poultry. l
was rather surprised to see the forts black
and deoaying. When I was in Havana
in 1858 all we're white washed and kept
10 splendid condition. Next day at $50
p. m. we left for home and after a little
over four days sailing we arrived safely
at Philadelphia, a distance of 1890 miles.
During the trip, which covered five
weeks, the gallant steamer, Ohio, sailed
$500 miles.
l parted with my friends, who were my
companions for five pleasant weaks
with a great deal of reluctance and start
for dear old Columbia.