The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1896-09-13
THE NEW GOWNS.
what They Are to Be Made of In
New York.


From the New York Tribune.
The autumn importations of our chief
merchants hardly confirm the rumor that
plain cloths of the variety known to tail
ors as faced cloths" will again resume
their place in fashionable favor. There
are many noteworthy novelties of weave
and coloring, but solid colors are the ex-
ception rather than the rule, while smooth
cloths, as represented by the new Zibe-
lines, are very different from the old
time ladies' cloths of years ago. They
are distinguished by their exquisite silken
weight and clinging softness. They are
indeed triumps of the French manufac-
turers' art, resembling in their texture
the came's hairs of a dozen years ago,
which lent themselves so gracefully to
clinging draperies. What does the return
Of this species of cloth mean in an era
of fiaring stiff styles? viii 1t not tempt
dressmakersto return to drapery and more
bouffant fashions?
Some of the extreme makes of these new
cloths are covered with long silken hairs
of one color on a contrasting ground, sug-
costing Its use in vesting and for por-
AiOAn VI a NiNSS VI pam <4lUtilnb. Hidln
colors and what are known as heather
mixture, where the eolors are carded to-
gether in the wool, abound in these new
Zibelines or camePs-hairs. The soft grays
Of many years ago, rich dahlia shades,
and above all, the new greens and blues
in slate tones are shown in these cloths
and the combination of blue and green
seems to be in them a fad of the hour. 1t
appears in combination with two or three
other shades in a large number Of the pat
terms. Apricot, pink, moss green and
slate blue are other popular combinations
These colorings are combined In dark,
subdued shades in even mixtures in checks
and in fine plaids.
The new homespuns are shown in two
varieties of weave, a loose, soft sacking
and a frmer cheviot, with soft cameps
hair surface. These camefs hair cheviots
are known as Scotch goods, though OF
French manufacture, having all the
witchery of French coloring I'm their soft
hairy surface. Some of these cloths show
a refined mixture of grays with black
and white. Sometimes the popular bou-
rette figures Of closely curled hair or a
regular brocaded figure partly cover the
ground, and look like pattern Of uncut
velvet.
Venetian cloths with their indistlnct
diagonal weave are shown In plain colors
and heather mixtures, as well as in
CHECKS ana CTObhDdTes lnefe are also
many Ottoman cords. These differ from
the Bedford and imperial cords in having
the cord run from selvage 10 selvage. in
stead of up and down. The varieties of
this material, where a fine cord alternates
with a much heavier one, making a rails
ed stripe, r. known as wool sicilienne."
II Is shown this season in several shades
OF brown, in green's, mode and slate-blue
as well as marine blue, brighter shade
than navy and almost as intense In color
ing as od-fashioned royal blue. There
are also some velours which differ from
the goods of several years ago I'm having
an irregular cord. aH.t .t.
Some OF the new mixed cloths in rich
tones Of many colors are subdued By IT.
regular ve1ours in black crossing their
surface. Still others are brocaded in an
arabesque of black lines, giving the effect
of a braided pattern over "A gay ground.
These rich. warm goods are intended es-
peclally for heavy winter wear, though,