The morning times., 1896-11-08
Skirts Are PronouncedIy Bell
Shape, Sleeves Are Small
and Eccentric and Plain
Clothes Are Elabor-
ateIy Trimmed.

and the girdles of medium height, five
incues at utmost, 80 that Interchangeable
tion may be said to he the mark of the
French Irock and the sign manuel OF th,
most perfect makers OF the world.
The American copy is somehow ALWAYS
carried IA httie further, more is the uitv
and depravity of our tastes. And So
much Is this national fundness for run
ming everything in the ground recognized
in faris tnaU Tie frrnrn fashion In ~
most ideal shape is rarely shown the raw
American buyer.
AT the Filth avenue house mentioned
Were seen gowns such as French women
wear. Some OF the best makers were rep
resented, Felix, DOucet, Paquin, Raud-
nitZ anu all the rest OF them; each toilet
revealing some special creation IN cut or
color OF its celebrated faiseur. Out Of
number OF these fine winter frUcks i'm
ported for the horse show, Ior the Smart
est women OF the city, few Were select
ed as the best examples. They are Illus
trated on this page and may be recUg-
nized as follows:
toilet en- traine of dahlia -coIored
moire is for Il young married woman of
blonde coloring. The silk is in a pale
dahiia, with pink reflections; the train
demi-lcngth, applications Of HOniton Ioint
lace form an apron effect at the front
gore or the skirt.
The boiero bodice of the lace over deep
purple sltin, is gir,iled by wide corse,et
belt OF the sIme. The vest is aIsn OF lace.
the sleeves of mire finished by band Of
seaiskin, which also trims the b,ttom of
the SKIRT and the top OF the high collar
This gown, with its delicate evening
colorng and dark fur, was delightful.
Many Others in pale tints, and even the
airiest evening affairs, showed sombre fur
trimmings, with such regal effect, that
one felt inclined to thank the little cZar
or Russia for having given Us this fashion.
A costume in pale brown velvet Just the
shade OF an almonds tusk. was made with
entre-deuS of heavy white lace bouiered
narrowly with Russian sable. The skirt
ur this is very narrow bell with the
lace insertions disposed in points to form
tabiier effect. Blouse bodice and gigot
sleeves in one piece. ornamented in the
same way. The lining is OF maize silk.
which gives q gold reflection to the lace
ami enhances the richness OF ,hs fur edge.
This toilet was Felix composition, de
signed Tor g young lady of brunette COM
plexon.
\ ma snitCent costume in velours brocaie
bore Paquin's stamp. Though young in
effect, this had Il stately look befitting
its splendid materials. The white silk
background OF the gown stuff is lined
with Irregular stripes in raised black vel
embroidered with jet and forming short
Jacket with poStiIlions at the back, and
a wide band nj he bottom OF the skirt.
The close sleeves Of the brocade are
widened at the shoulders by big bows OF
black vevet and the girdlc is OF the same.
The two remaining frocks give pair
of simple and becoming ways Of arrang-
ing Il bodice SO IT can be worn without
wrap. For. of course, except in ex-
tremest weather, these much befuFred bod
ices are not to be covered up fur
cravatte. with the several tails now ex-
acted, will maffle the throat, and on
butter days a chamOis uTderbody may be
added underneath; but with these cxcep-
tiuns, the fur-trimmed body must take
all Tie responsibility OF the cold weather
on Its own shoulders IL. however, the
effect OF the other trimming aCcOrds, q
cUllet, or narrow shoulder cape. with a
high staud-up cellar OF the same skin may
be added.
With a costume of dragoon-blue cloth,
the fur on the bodice takes the form OF
sleeveless bOlcro of dceply-marked mink
The corsasc is OF the cloth. with large
plait shaped at the front; the folded belt
is of the same, introducing other folds OF
satin in the brown OF the fur.
High fur collar, Medici shape. and cloth
sleeves in one piece, with fullasss held
down at the top by two mink skins folded
in bands aud finished with heads. Tho
skirt has 4 he'll front, with three godets at
the back 1t is finished with three mar
row folds OF the cloth. with stitchiUgs OF
brown
The wraps shown with the horse show
frOcks were exclusively frivolous affairs.
Mere COllets, the most OF them, little
frills Of velvet or fur. and SO hedecked
with lace, ribbon and flowers that it could
be plainly seen they were for beautifying
purposes alone.
But enormous capes of monkey skin,
sable and other furs VIII be worn with
street gowns later on. Though wider
and coming below the waist line, these
have something OF thelOOk OF the old coach
man affairs, worn several years ago
one or these big monkey skin Capes.
and vast muff tn match. will he found
handsome and useful winter purchase.
With Il plain cloth gown in any rich color
they are extremely effective.
NINA FITCH.