The record-union., 1896-05-24

u
to get into the homes in the neighbor-
, hood
!, 1t has finally come to pass that in the
ma tier of the coiffure few intelligent,
, cultivated women follow any universal
mode or iron rule in the arrangement
of their hair to suit the features of
their friends or neighbocs, but in ac-
cordance with their own particular cast
of courtenance and their individual
fancy. AS a result one notices at any
fashionable evening gathering med
ley of graceful and becoming styles of
coiffure that not infrequently are quite
an artistic study The compact, lus-
trous braided coil at the back of the
head is popular with many, especially
women who elect for the trim princesse
or the open-back poke bonnets. There
are high-rolled coiffures in Pompadour,
Josephine and Medici styles, with or
without the full puffs above the roll;
bow-knot effects on the Sides or at the
top of the head in the back, with gilt
tering diamond or paste pins thrust
in here and there; low, broad Russian
coiffures with air in deep waves over
the brow and sides of the head; Greek
| knots with classic fillets of narrow
gold or silver set with tiny gems, to
bind down the ripples of hair-a very
special style seldom to be ventured
upon; braids Ia chatelaine caught up
with large Alsatian bow or hair Orna-
ment; the Clytie style, with a few short,
airy curls bound with a soft braid of
hair in the center of the head, or in the
nape of the neck, as proves most be-
coming There is likewise the Naomi
coiffure in which a length of abundant
hair is lightly braided and coiled round
the crown of the head like fluffy aure-
ole, and fixed with tiny gem-set pins.
There are other arrangements, combin-
ing tresses knotted, braided and waved,
giving the effect of a great wealth of
Woman's crowning glory, or severe cOif-
fures adjusted with plain rich tortoise
shell pins, Spanish styles, also with
the inevitable high back comb as a
finishing touch, and coiffures in unique
modes Of the ultra-English order, the
hair parted in the center and minus
puff, wave or ornament; and, lastly, the
shortcut style, curling all over the
head, and parted on the left, with little
side combs to hold the rings of hair in
place above the temples.
Bluets, ragged sailors, iris blossoms,
pink and white morning -glories, clover
and hawthorn blooms, and black-hearted
meadow daisies Of brilliant yellow are
fastened in both low, fat punches and
high nodding groups Rn low-crowned
hats of ecru Panama braid. Plateau
hats of soft openWork straw or green
rushes have a bordering Of anemones
or viOlets at the extreme edge of the
brim, and at the back are set up very
high long-stemmed roses and foliage or
red and blue phlox, with blossoms of
contrasting color at each side inter
mixed with fiaring bows of fancy ribbon.
Leghorn hats are crinkled and bent
into fantastic shapes and decorated
with pleated chiffon frills Venetian
| lace, and roses that shade from deepest
j2cque red to faintest pink. Pretty ecru
lace-braid hats are piped underside
with black or brown velvet and trimmed
with butter-colored lace, velvet ribbon
| loops. maiden hair fern, hedge roses
and blue myosotis.
| Suratines and rainbow percalnes are
brought out among several novel bodice
and skirt Innings to be used as substi-
tutes for inferior silks that wear so
poorly and cut and fray so quickly. over
| forty different shades are among these
Innings to be used under batiste, sum-
mer silk, grenadine grass linen and the
| generality of heavier textiles used in
making up tailor costumes for vacation
| wear.
| The high bicycle shoes that lace
through eyelets their entire length are
said 10 be preferable TO those that lace
over pegs at the top, for the reason that
the pegs may fret and tear the facing
Of the skirt, and might cause a serious
accident.
When celery is not as crisp as it
should be. put it in very cold water, add
d slice or two of lemon and let it stand
an hour.
The newest satin and brccaded taffeta
silk petticoats ere made with flounced
lace-edced borders, four or five in num-
Der or oae-half yard deep, above three
tiny pinked ores; the lower edge of the
wide rufie lace-edged or trimmed with
a supplementary friil which is likewise
pinked and made as full as possible.
Many of the expensive imported skirts
are deeply pleated in shell-shaped fes-
toons with 6 row of lace at the edge of
each pleating. The low-necked models
made in princesse form, that the French
designers have sent over, are a com
promise garment between a petticoat
and corset cover. and are narrowly
gored and beautifully shaped. and make
ideal garments to wear beneath either q
perfectly fitted tailor costume, or light
airy summer toilet, as there are neither
bands nor gathers about the waist and
hips to add to the size or discomfort
Of the wearer
Miss Parioa gives the following direc-
tons for testing the even in cake bak-
ing: For sponge cake. put piece of
paper into the oven. close the door, and
: open ii in five minutes. If the paper is
rich yellow, the oven is right; but if
!, it is a light yellow. the oven is too cool:
l. dark brown, IL is too hot. For pound
cake. the oven should be just hot enough
to color light brown. Cup cake requires
an oven of about the same tempera-
ture. All thin rolled cakes require a
hotter oven, SO that the paper should
turn a dark brown in five minutes. The
length OF time required for baking GER
tain cakes will vary with their thick
ness or the size of the pan in which
they are baked
: In stewing rhubarb for sauce. cut it