The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1895-10-31
The aahia naiu gasle ghursdau 1omo October 81 1885

intervals with a true lovers knot The
veil to be worn with this gown is OF
exceedingly fine Brussels net and viii
be fastened with a half coronet OF or
ange blossoms.
Without the immense court train the
bridal gown would appear extremely
simple. The train is the regulation
length prescribed for the presentation
at the Court of St. James. and the gown
Will be one in which the future duchess
of Marlborough viii be presented TO the
queen. when. Of course. she VIII nave
TO wear a decoIlete body, Tfich is ab-
soiutely necessary at court pfeSenla-
tons In all probability Miss Wander
bilt will not wear any jewels at her
marriage.
Mrs. Vanderbilt's gown. made also
by Nine. Donovan, is of ciel blue satin
of richest weave The full gored skirt
is cut perhaps four inches longer than
walking length in the back, and is per-
fectIy plain. cave for three-inch wide
border of Russian sable fur. The bod
ice is fashioned with a tight-fitting,
coat-seamed back, terminating in two
full box plaits reaching to some SIX
inches below the waist line. separating
TO show to narrow bands of sable,
Loose, straight jacket sides of applique
lace open over a boffant vest of white
mousseline de sole, embroidered in a
small vine pattern, with oval shaped
pealrs, sea-green in hue, the leaves
Joined together with a delicate tracery
of silver.
Appliques Of this embroidery finish
the top of the full elbow sleeves, which
are finished at the lower edge with
full twist Of applique lace. Outlining
each armhole is a narrow band Of sable
zsr.i, afr1r rac in frr-n rQf IF a
same fur, pendant from each shoulder
over the lace jacket. The small toque,
to match this costume is of the same
materials, the sable beinga ranged in
the form of wings placed on the side.
The bridesmaids gowns are of pure
white satin, completed with broad Cir
dies and sashes of ciel blue satin ribbon
almost duplicate in color of that used
in Mrs. Vanderbilt'S gown. Although
the exact model after which they will
be designed has not yet been settled
it has been decided that the skirts will
be short ando quite plain, and that
chiffon will be used for trimming.
Each bridesmaid will also wear a.
large hat Of royal blue velve,, troad
'brimed, and Win a Iull gathered DELL
shaped crown, encircled with cell blue
satin ribbon, finishseds osn sthess sim
satin ribbon, finished on the right side
with a chiffon rosette the same color.
Trimming the left side are six large
thed-d dwgsssresds caof
pale blue ostrich feather tips and a
white aigrette, and where the brim
turns sharply up in the back there is
fastened full bows Of the blue satin
ribbon.
No royal bride could have more dam
ty and exquisite lingerie than that of
Miss Consuello Vanderbilt. Suit af
ter suit OF these dainty articles have
been imported, and the variety is al
most endless. There are fourteen COM
plete sets, six of them being of such fine
linen, cambria, and cobwebby real Val
enciennes lace that they might with
justice be called "trfles light as air."
and eight more sets which, though by
comparison simpler, are pretty and
dainty enough for the most fastidious
bride. These are trimmed half with
a less expensive quality of real Valen-
ciennes and half with cluny lace.
The white cambria skirts of which
there are to be ten, are some of them
made after an entirely new design, be-
ing very full at the hem and absolutely
without fullneSS at the band. AS Miss
Vanderbilt'S tastes are simple, these
are trimmed very sensibly, having fine
Hamburg edging on the ruff1es. Four
silk skirts, three dark and heavy, for
wet weather, and one all light and
dainty, are also unique in style. The
light skirt is of a very pretty pompa-
dour Dresden silk, with tiny pink roses
scattered over it. and row after row
of fine black lace insertion and white
chiffon edging on the ruffie.
Even in in the flannel skirts there
is great variety. these being each of
a different color and covered with Chi
ma silk in a contrasting shade, with
ruffle of fine white cambria and butter
colored lace, with ribbons run through
beading and litleb ows here and there
There are six more skirts of a new
material called zernani, which is an
eiderdown flannel with creped silk sur
face and little under ruffies of pinked
out silk to match
There are no two sets alike in the
whole trousseau, the flowers in the ex-
quisitely fine hand embroidery on the
elaborate sets being varied. One set,
the one which Miss Vanderbilt will
probably wear for her marriage. is en-
broidered with tiny rosebuds, one with
daisies, one chrysanthemuIns, and one
violets; while even the ribbons are of
different kinds and colors. The laces
vary in width from one inch to eight.
but are all of the finesta quality.
That portion of the lingerie designa-
ted as the bridal suit" is chiefly re-
markable for the exquisite quality of
the linen cambria employed.
The peignoir, Marie Antoinette in de-
sign, is tucked back and front to the
waist line and girdled with white sat
in ribbon. The broad, rolling collar
and revers, the latter falling over the
full sleeves and sloping to the waist
line, are hand embroidered in a rose
bud design and edged with four-inch
wide ValiencenneS lace. A cuff of en-
broidered rosebuds, finished with a deep
fall Of lace, finishes the sleevs.
The other garments of this particular
suit are made to match. Valenciennes
lace and hand embroidery only being
used for trimming.
The bridal corset is made of white
satin, brocaded with tiny white carna-
tons and trimmed at the upper edge
with a deep pointed border OF Valen-
ciennes lace. The clasps, he large hook
and the buckles on the attached stock
ing supporters are all of solid gold
Miss Vanderbilt has not yet designa-
ted her 'going-away" dress. but she
has several Of these to choose from.
In any event, it is likely TO be of
neutral tint
Siberian Feast.
When / returned in the afternoon to