New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-22

than the clinging white gown that suggests every
line OF Nine Recamier's beautiful figure in Davids
picture or the embroidered white gown and red
scarf that Josephine wore when Prudhom painted
her at Malmaison. But these women had swan
like necks. and were round and slender OF limb.
and languid OF movement They had never played
tennis and didn't romp In balirooms-ani romping
the modern cotlllon would certainly appear to
them. Most modern women In a Dlrectoire gown
look either too tall and thin or too short and stout
and they take too long step, move too quickly,
and are conscious OF waist line. The more
recent fashions have been charming, but they are
passing The next move OF Dame Fashion Is TO
be a happier one for the Marie Antoinette gowns,
with their artificial prettness. suit dainty figures.
and most women have or can have dainty figures.
for THE daughter OF the gods is not the one who
should be consulted. The minority should never
sway the modes.
Besides the Marie Antonette frocks our modern
young woman has adopted the wastcoats and jack
cts and runies OF the gallant OF that period. and
very lovely she looks in them. You have heard all
about these. for they have been In vogue several
months and the influence OF the Court OF Louis XVI
IL seen even In the severe cloth models for autumn
and winter and IL likely TO continue.
All this is apropos OF and suggested by a model
by Felix Of evening gown in which the designer
goes back few years further into history
and brings 10 light costume OF the day OF Louis
XIV. the day OF the Pompadour and Du Barry.
train there is being full and BROAD and 1t puffs up
very full on each side. giving boufant effect over
the hips Although Felix introduced dancing skirt
something In this style last winter. this model Is
much more extreme and really prettier The skirt
IS OF heavy almond-green satin. that fashionable
and becoming shade and Is embroidered all over
In daisy pattern. The heads OF the daisies are
done in narrow white ribbon and the stems in sill
yer The flowers loosely punched together. and
the effect of the embroidery Is very delicate and
light.
The corsage is fitted. pointed basque OF the
satin cut with a quaint square decolletage. and
busk is inserted 81 front give the oldtime straight
effect 1t Is wonderfully picturesque and pretty.
There is little lace and silver embroidery about
the neck but the character of the gown Is one OF
severe simplicity. The elbow sleeves start from
long shoulder seam. and composed Of three
yolants but the effect, compared to the modes or
to-day is Of a very small sleeve. and the natural
curve OF the shoulder looks particularly well. To be
sure we have a number OF gowns showing that but
the sleeves all extend great width at the elbows,
which destroys the proportions.
Another charming evening gown at the same place
has a skirt OF cream satin. 1t has full godet hip
pieces which form abots down the side seams.
This skirt In black satin has been described in
prev,ous letter and undoubtedly this will be the
new skirt OF the season. 1t seems TO call Tor the
accompaniment Of pointed waist as the bodice OF
this dress Is although the fitted form does not show
The bodice Is OF a beautiful pink velvet. with
silver sheen over H. the shade that the French call
"ibs -" This velvet follows the shape OF the pointed
baaaue but is arranged In soft folds which are
drawn up on the shoulder In two fuled ends. which
stand out Chou" fashion. The decoletase Is
rounded and there Is not a speck OF lace on the
eovn. The sleeves are large elbow puns OF the
cream satin. falling we'll away from the shoulders
Felix's evening gowns wraps and negliges are
very unioue and wonderful. but as yet his day
time models are conventional. and show very few
marked changes from those OF last season. Per-
han. this very fact is worthy OF comment. Perhaps
the greatest novelties he has sent out are the gowns
he made for Mrs. Langtry last winter, for they
were very moderate in skirt and decidedly small
in regard TO sleeves Really. to-day there Is great
laxlty in fashion. and a clever woman In conJunc-
ton with a clever couturer whatever be-
comes her best.
Among the daytime frocks Is one OF navy blue
uohatr In serge weave. The skirt shows seams
and ia cut with the usual fare. The blouse. al
though arranged TO do away with bet. has
blouse front OF cashmere velvet. over the sleeves
are rufnes OF the blue stun. which make pleated
revers on each side OF the velvet vest. These ruff
nes hang well the sleeves. for there are straps
OF blue cloth buttoning over the shoulders.
The sleeves. gieot in shape. are OF the blue and
the choker Is soft affair. with large bow In the
back OF green velvet. IL one should Wish H.
sash OF green velvet could he added to the costume.
useful afternoon dress Is OF black satin. and for
the woman who must make frequent changes on a
small dress Allowance there s no better Investment
In this case the skirt Is cut faring but with many
seams and Is unirimmed The bodice Is a pointed
basque with moderately full sleeves glgo In shape.
The principal. feature OF the dress - the opportunity
1t gives for overwasts nohus and fancy neck and
blouse arrangements. In this taere - sleeve
less jacket with epaulettes over the top OF the
-i-AvA. ut rcd cloth istish nrAsm lace edge and