The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1895-11-12

herds plaid The fronts hung open from
the neck over full vest Of silver gray
taffeta. The back was cut like tight
waist with belt. The skirt to the back
was set on in three deep ripples and was
about eight inches deep. There was a
rolling collar (hat extended down the
front to the bottom. The whole suit
was tailor stitched in two lines. The
gigot sleeves were made to droop closely
to the arms.
So far the majority of the sleeves are
very full, but many have the fullness
pulled downward There are, however,
many sleeves almost smooth ON the
shoulders, these mostly in tailor suits.
Balloon putfs, mandolin and draped
puffs are also very often seen. The sleeve
with the shoulder part shirred in close
ly and with large puffs just at the ell
bow is considered quite chic. Sleeves
with two and three puffs are also seen.
There was an elegant tailor gown
shown. The skirt was gored and at each
gore was laid fat plat turned back
ward. The skirt was not stiffened and
hung nearly natural. There was loose
blouse waist of the same stutf-a rich
tan serge cheviot. 1t fastened up with
rough gold buttons and had belt and
tie of cardinal surah. The buckle was
of rough gold. There was short box
coat of the cheviot, tailor finished and
lined with silk. The sleeves were no
larger than those of mems coats. How
very stylish this suit was one could
i. snnins,
Among the odd new fashions / saw a
princess gown of royal purple satin
duchesse. The skirt was made enormous
~ wide around the bottom. There was
one wide box plat down the front,
widening as it reached the foot. There
was similar one in the back Other
wise it fitted the figure like glove. 1t
was cut out In the neck and had a sort
of guimpe of ivory silk, with wrinkled
stock and daisy rufile above The sleeves
were in medium balloon puffs, with
manches of the same material. On the
waist and around the skirt was rich
gold and black passementerie. This Is
one of the gowns that fascinate those
women who are always looking for some
thing unusually striking. In black or
any sober color and for house wear thia
would be elegant.
Quite different from this was gown
of narrow striped taffeta in soft and
warm greens and ruddy browns The
skirt was gored and full, but gathered
ut the back. The waist was of the same
silk, with V shaped plastron of NOR
dore velvet front and back. This wal
edged with gautfered ribbon and ha'
three very full ruches of narrow valen
ciennes at the center There We're hand
some bows of ribbon to match on tn
sleeves and at the waist. The sleeve
were looped up in manner to break tn
lines Of the stripes into pleasing curves
Hats continue to grow, until nov
many of them are as large as the mon
strosities we have smiled at for man
years. Gauze ribbon, great bows of silk
velvet and silk muslin and wonderful
panaches of plumes are seen, beside
punches of exaggerated roses and otht
flowers The shapes are so varied tina
it would be impossible to describe an
of them as the leading style, but on
may say that the most remarkable {
| approaching AhpnN WI
during the days of Marie Antoinett'
The poke front and soft crown seem
be much liked. For other hats and boz
nets there are hundreds of thousands {
small wings. As many as can be are fai
tened TO each. Ostrich plumes toppI
over the large hats. BOnnets are I
small as they ever have been. Son
have tiny white WINGS standing mn Der
{ ly ON each h.,-, ,..., rabbits ears. il
and metal beads and ornaments and al
imitation diamonds will be much won
for millinery, particularly for evening
The newest silks are as pretty as ca
be imagined. Generally speaking the
are not as heavy as they used TO be, bl
hey are much cheaper as an offset I'll
Picking pompadour is dainty in strip
and with pretty figures. There is a tN
toned figured taffeta in 40 different co
ors and combinations. The Jacquai
silks make very effective tea gowns an
evening dresses. There is brocaded Ia
feta with all the crispness of the taffe
and all the glstening beauty OF Il
brocaded flowers. There is a print wa
taffeta and glace, besides two tone II
ured tatfeta, and chameleon pompado
taffeta. This last is an exquisite col
bination Of beauties.
There are rich and heavy grosgrain
satin duchesse and satin damask in lar
designs and superb quality. This do
not half cover the kinds and qualities
silk goods now shown. Nothing con