The San Francisco call., 1895-07-14
LATEST PARIS FASHIONS,
The Dear Old Gigot Sleeve Is
Doomed to Early DiSap-
pedranCe.
the New Double Ruffled Gre
alton.

PARIS, July 1.-There is crisis in
dress. The late style has exhausted itself
and need is to start fresh on a new. Which
is not as easy as saying Jack Robinson, or
as making a novel garment out of an acci-
dental miscut, though the majority of folks
may think so.
Fashion has been turning over and
over the modes of the past hundred
years or so to see if among them are any
that may serve as point of new depart
ure. A number have been set up to try
what the public would have to say to them
models of the Louis XVI and of the 1S39-4C
period mainly. And thus far these tenta-
tive models have been the only novelties
of the season.
Among the principal revivals have been
fichus. turbans, long shoulder seams called
of 1880, and fowered materials. None of
them give signs of permanence, except
that the lowered fabrics give more sign of
it than the rest, though it would be rash to
predict conquest for what has been tried
so many times nd has hitherto failed.
The field from which fashion draws its
inspiration is immensely larger than it was.
Once Paris fashion catered to small num-
ber in a limited area, and the mass of the
world wore a costume that never changed; ;
once social Incident that concernedFrance
alone could color the mode; but now fash
ION labors for the round globe and all wo-
menkind upon it and to clientele that
looks upon France not as the center of the
world but as province of it merely, on
whom local occurrences in France have
correspondingly diminished influence.
Neither Marie Antionette nor Louis Phil
ippe "reminiscences interest greatly this
larger clientele, which asks rather what it
is that is interesting to the world? AT
any rate, this much is clear. Paris has
seen this spring both these epochs many
times brought to light and poked back
again, and only those remaining out that
reflect the Orient.
Flowered fabrics, turbans and dervish
skirts are of the East, the East that to-day
is in all mems minds. They speak of
Egypt, of Chitral expeditions, of Slatin
Bey, escapes from the Soudan, of Japanese
victories, OF geographical parcelings out of
Asia to the West.
At last the gigot sleeve IS In a fair way
of disappearing. Poor old leg o. mutton,
it has hung on well; it had its virtues, too !;
1t was susceptible of a great variety of
effects; one could distinguish in fashion
able assembly the Worth gigot, severe and
simple, and like an old Venetian sleeve !;
the NORM Blossier gigot, which bubbled
over deliciously at top and was gracefully
slender below the Rouff gigot, which
broke out into wonderful butterflies or
bows; the Felix sleeve, etc. One, at least,
OF the new sleeves that would supplant it
has not this versatility. When everybody
has got a bishop sleeve everybody will
have got one, and all will be said and done.
Another new sleeve, with more seeming
possibility in the way of design, is that
which has been transformed out of the
balloon, and drops TO the elbow like
doubled ruffie 1t is enormously wide and
is particularly beautiful when accordion
plated. The blouse should be plated,
too, and as the edge OF the blouse falls in
line with the edge of the sleeve, the effect
is somewhat that of cape.
Close caps are at the top of many sleeves,
which throws the fullness down low on
the arm in 1880 style, and as it gets more
and more the fashion to cut shoulder
seams very long, these caps furnish good