San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-04-21
GLImPsEs OF MEXICAN LIFE
As Seen by Two Lady Tourists in
Our Sister Republic.

LIGHT:
EsCALoN, chihuahua, Mex.-It
is matter of only 155 miles from
MonClova to Sierra Mojada, but il
seemed powerful lot longer Il
US two girls inlthe swinging Earring
stage coach that carried US alone
the dreary Sierra Mojada desert
Our friends at MonclOva had pro
vided us with letters of introduc
ton and recommendation for every
little stage station en- route. Every
time we approached such a place
we went through our bundle of let
tiers and brought forth the one
addressed to some person in tina,
place. The result was that at such
places to which we had
letters we were always re.
ceived with the greatest courtesy
charged very reasonable rates for
meals or lodging; whereas at such
places where we could pull no let.
ter OF introduction there was nc
price too fancy for us to pay. To
be candid, this lone stage ride
across the Sierra Mojada country
with a break down and only a
smattering knowledge of the Ian
guage, has quite chilled our ardor
for travelling abroad without gen.
tlemen escort.
THE DILIGENCIA DESCRIBED.
Our vehicle was one Of those
pondrous stage coach affairs which,
in the parlance of this country. is
termed "diligencia," or some
times "coche." The basket or
box OF the carriage hangs suspend
ed by great leather straps fastened
over heavy frame work
to which the cumbersome wheels
are attached. This gives the vehicle
full swing in every direction, and
thus the passenger can enjoy all
the roughness and sea sickness OF
an autumn ocean voyage without
the danger OF being drowned! In
fact when the Mexican driver
cracks his whip and yells "andarle,
mula," you feel as though you are
on bark that Is riding out storm
on the billowy Atlantic, and a har-
monious unison Of motion is at
once established between ones
stomach and the stage. The driver
spends the day between abusing
the four mules Of the coach and
smoking cornshuck cigarettes.
Now and then he sings some light,
dreamy native ale, which medley
like, glides into strange harsh
maledictions hurled at some lazy
mule.
THE TOWN OF CIENEGAS.
AS l have said before, the dis
lance between Monclova and Sierra
Mojada is l55 miles, and from be-
ginning to end almost an endless
unbroken desert. Between Mon
clova and Cuatro Cienegas, the
only town of any Importance, there
is a fair diversity OF hills and val
legs, few green villages mixed up
with the sandiest, dreariest spots l
ever saw. Indeed, it feels like
steaming into safe harbor after a
swapping sea, to drive into the
green little town Of Cuatro Ciene-
gas.
Curato Cienegas is a sleepy place
OF 1900 souls, no less sleepy be.
cause it is prosperous. 1t consists
of a number OF stores and houses
around a poor attempt at a public
park, from which a number Of
house lined streets radiate in va
rious directions. 1t is distinctly an
agricultural community, and
through its excellent irrigation
system, it never misses a crop.
The vineyards Of the place have
total of 100000 fruit bearing
vines, some gardens growing over
100000 apiece. Aguadientea and wine
are the products of the grape and
bring considerable wealth to the
place. Aguadiente, which is a kind
Of brandy, is produced annually to
the extent of 1000 barrels, bringing
about $32, 1000, while 1000 barrels of
wine yield $4,000. A fair quail
ity of raisins is obtained from
the grape. Other fruits are figs,
peaches, ounces, etc., but their f.
nancial Importance is far below
that of the grape. Wheat and
corn are also grown and mill
running at full capacity Of 1900
pounds por day turns out flour for
the entire region Of the state. Thus
some 1,200 hands with an average
daily pay Of so cents, find employ
ment.
AMONG THE UPPER CLASS.
The stage for some reason laid
over at Cuatro Cienegas and thus
/ spent an afternoon and q night
in the place. My letter of intro
duction secured for US lodging and
meals in a private family, and
gave US an insight into what life
among the wealthy upper class is
like. The rooms were elegantly
furnished,n mot in the rich, luxuriant
style of our American houses, still
they were neat and tastily arrang-
ed. The plain white painted or
possibly white-washed walls were
hung with pictures and portraits