The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1895-12-12

GOWN OF CLOTH AND CARACAL FUR.
social functions by New York women.
But there is redeeming element of sat
isfaction in this demonstration of fash
ionable dress, in the fact that every con-
ceivable fancy which taste, style, money
OF economy can devise goes to make up
the fabric of the season e fashions, and
there is hope for the slender purse in
the cheaper materials and varied COM
binations which aid SO materially in
making over old gowns. Fine velveteen,
which comes in lovely soft colors and
exquisite oriental patterns, is fashion
able substitute for the more expensive
silk velvet, and quite the proper thing
for entire waists and sleeves, vests and
wide collars, while the plain colors are
used for dresses and coats worn with
silk and wool skirts. Fine laces and
bits of fur which have been slowed
away for years can be utilized with
great effect, as bands Of fur are used on
the waists of gowns which have none on
the skirt, while very short pieces put on
in strips without any special reason ex-
cept to furnish an excuse for fancy
button at either end are part of the
scheme of trimming.
Afternoon gowns wern by society
women are dressy combinations of cloth,
velvet, silk, lace and fur. The tailor
made gowns with short jaunty coats or
long redingotes and plain vests with
shirt fronts worn so much in the morn
ing are decidedly in the minority.
Skirts, with rare exceptions, are quite
plain, but extremely full and very care
fully fitted around the hips They hang
in soft, graceful folds, set out at the
bottom by a narrow facing of haircloth.
The most stylish bodice for cloth
gowns is a tight fitting coat with a short
basque, which is either fiat on the hips,
with a double box plat in the back,
nuted all around, or cut into Positions
or tabs, which are rounded or square at
the bottom and trimmed around with
hand embroidery or the very narroweSt
edge of fur.
Green, blue, brown and black are the
prevailing colors in cloth gowns, but
they are prettily varied by the dark,
rich shades of plum color and the soft
tints of the violet. Smooth finished
cloths, rough serge effects, silks and
velvets seem to have usurped the place
Of crepons, which are the exception and
not the rule among the new gowns.
While many of the dresses have skirts
and bodices of the same material, odd
waists still hold their own. Round
waists of plain or figured velvets are
quite as much worn as the more modern
coats, and fur bodices are another fea-
ture Of the new fashions. Caracal fur
and baby lamb seem to be the favorites
for this purpose, because of their fat
and wavy surface, and in combination
with a black cloth or satin skirt and
sleeves and a fancy vest they are very
stunning. Vests of all sorts and cOndi-
lions meet your eye as you view the
dress parade, and they have developed
as many possibilities for decoration as
the broad collar They are full and
puffy, or close fitting, pouched little
or drawn down into the belt, broad or
narrow as you choose, and the variety
of materials which enter into their con-
struction includes nearly everything on
the list from game to fur.
Collar bands all have some sort Of
decoration, either bow in the back, {.
ruche of silk set in to stand up around
the neck or flare out from it, lace
ruf1e to fall soft all around except di-
4CGO4y al Lulu VI DOAASS u SA4t> VI vail
GUS sizes and shapes which extend out
on the side. This collar band is usually
Of the same material as the vest or the
waist, if it is silk Or velvet, but it is
never plain, and when you are in doubt
as to what to use for a stock you can
safely invest in cream white satin rib
bon whatever the color of your gown
may be- 1t will have touch of cream
lace in the bodice if it is up to date, and
that justifies the white collar every
time, according to the New York Sun,
which illustrates a striking afternoon
gown. The skirt and sleeves are of plain
black cloth, and the coat bodice is of
caracal fur, belted down at the waist.
The coat is open in front over vest of
pale blue satin, covered with cream lace,
and on either side, running out from
the edge of the fur, are pieces of Per-
sian trimming extending just below the
| bust and fastened down with three paste
buttons. Straps Of black satin ribbon
are arranged on either side of the coat.
and a ruche of plated chiffon and bows
of satin ribbon is worn around the neck.
How to Make Bread Fingers.