The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-03-10
THE W0MHN
OF FHSHI0N.

New York. March 9.-"Gentle spring is
here. at least so says the calendar. and
though the weather may not feel particu-
larly gentle. there are several reasons
why We should assume that it is. and act
accordingly. A change OF season is al
ways the signal for the fashionable worla
to begin to tremble, and this Is especially
true Of spring. Everybody is at sea. No
body knows what mOnstrosity in the line
of clothes is to be imposed upon us next.
Are the old absurdities to which we
have become accustomed to be supplanted
by new ones? That there viii be absurd
ities Of some kind 1t would be folly TO
doubt, but just what character they will
assume is a subject of the gravest anx-
1 iety to those whose business it is TO know.
The object OF greatest interest is, Of
/ course, the sleeve, as it has been our
/ stock absurdity for many season. and
it would be very annoying not to have
the precious nuisance to find fault with.
How women used to scold about the tight
| sleeves that fashion pronounced correct.
and then meekly bow to the inevitable
9 q
pair taken in, so as to conform more
closely to the dictates of the autocrat.
Now, however, we have grown accustomed
to crying out against the extravaganza
of the two yard sleeve, and then ordering
two yards extra for our new gown for fear
its dimensions will increase before the
summer is over.
There have been vague hints dropped
to the effect that sleeves will grow smaller
this summer, but that is very unlikely.
1 because there is such a splendid oppor-
! tunity for voluminOus drapery in the fine
/ fiimsy material worn in summer. The
chiffon sleeves of untold yards. which are
now only appropriate for evening wear,
may be copied in the dimities and organ
/ dies for wear in the daytime. The heav-
/ Ter materials viii probably not be so
| lavishly draped, as they would be uncom-
/ fortably warm for mild weather The ma
/ jority Of people are avoiding the issue,
| however, so far as new fashions are con-
1 cerned. 1t Is too early to decide upon
/ style for a whole dress, and a good many
| people have hit upon a compromise by
/ filling in the breach with fancy waists
| of various descriptions. This necessitates
one handsome skirt, and black is the best
/ color to choose because it can be worn
/ which are quite cheap; black crepons
! which are not cheap, but are very pretty
/ and very serviceable; black MORE popIin
/ which is expensive; and black satin which
/ Is most elegant of all but not so service
! able. One can make such a skirt eight
yards wide at the bottom but that Is not
/ necessary If the skirt is half that width
! and Is cut as It should be with the godet
/ pleats in the back, Vt will serve very we'll
/ for ordinary purposes and be much less
/ bulky and unmanageable. Properly stiff
/ ened, such skirt may be worn anywhere
/ according to the style Of waist that is
worn with it, If the waist is an evening
waist then the skirt is an evening skirt.
! If the possessor of this versatile petti-
coat happens to want church Dress she
/ wears her skirt with a dark silk waist or
with a bodice of some bright color yelled
/ with net or chiffon or mousseline de sole
/ The net is little newer than chiffon, and
| is therefore preferable. II has a natural
stiffness Of its own, too, which makes
! it hold its place when ar
ranged to stand out in countless puffs
/ Grenadines will doubtless be used for
separate waists to wear to church, and
/ these are much more durable than any Of
the other thin materials. For cheap waists
there is great opportunity to buy silks
on the bargain counters now.
Shirt waists are to be even more popular
! L
/ double box pleat in front which is
4 starched as stiff as a mans shirt bosom
and ornamented with pretty studs. These
useful waists are not to be limited In
materials to linens and chambrays, but
Will be made of dimities and dotted
Swiss One can thus be very cool and yet
wear dark colors for the dotted Swiss Is
| obtainable in almost any shade. Organdies
! in dark shades will also serve the same pur
pose, so that the we need not fear the heat
of next summer even if it is as great as 1t
was last.
French hannels and other soft materials
are being made up now into blouses with
the double box pleat in front, which is to
characterize the new shirt waist. That
line which the pleat follows in the blouse
! front appears in many of the new waists
| The broad band Of ribbon which trims so
! many fancy waists down the front Is only
another variation of the same idea If
| amateur and home dressmakers could
| thoroughly appreciate that a difference in
/ styles from one season to the next is a
! difference in general outlines more than
anything else. there would be a much
better chance for originality without risk
| of missing the correct fashion. IL the
would-be modiste will only remember that
putting on her trimming she must mako
the shoulders appear long, the sleeves
dropping and wide at the elbow; and
ludl lHefe must De some sort or up and
down trimming on the waist, she will be
much more successful than if she sets
about to copy exactly something which
she has seen somebody else wear.
1t is a comparatively simple matter to
make an evening waist if one bears few
of these general principles in mind All
| one needs is plenty Of trimming, and even
this may be dispensed with If ones sleeves
| are right.
A pretty waist for ordinary evening
! wear Is made Of Liberty satin, cut blouse
| fashion and brought under a wide belt
! A wide lace collar in four points made
/ of net jetted with little black pailIettes is
sewed into a high draped satin collar with
/ choux on each side to the checks. Such
waist is suitable for almost any occa-
/ sion.
For more formal evening wear is a
waist of embroidered mousseline de sole
1t is gathered to a yoke OF lace made de-
| collete in the front and high in the back
! The long effect is given to the shoulder BY
means of the lace epaulette and the founce
of mousselne de sole over each sleeve. A
wide belt Of velvet is ornamented with