New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-07
HOME AND SOCIETY.
r,,r SECRET OF BECOMING DRESS.

h%<A->A
~, "a very seldom that woman really under
..nds herself we'll enough TO wear what Is ai""Ss
ra ,,,rr and suits her style" remarked an artist
es'' .her day 1T is a sort OF hit or miss ailair
". t,eu generally. for they seldom CONSIDER inc
W.T., OF harmony and fitness. l saw MIS- y
otber day, driving uptown in her victoria Hhe
w" copper-colore1 gown, which exactly matcheu
w r,etallic CLEAN of her copper-coored har' anu
herb+ had never seen her look so handsome
"Oa,rlated her the next time l saw her upon
0"s..sta in gowns, and what DO you suppose she
said? ,..,. chr, exclaimed IT
mistake OF Routes. and l was so VeXed
s",,t Il could have cried ordered purple.
- imagine that. purple of all things!
"%Iv fair barbarian said-for 1 really could
-. holm it would like TO teach you the rud-
r",tarv principles of color. Fancy your having
80, artistic without knowing it'
rho rule that "in the daytime you must match
-, co,or OF your hair and in the evening the color
.,r ewes" is a very safe one TO follow; only, Of
$50 that gives a limited choice of colors. and
e. fevv women would be willing to restrict them
80 10 one or two tints however becoming they
Isht be- But Just different colors should ac-
H and he blended in the dress itself. the same
i,cinIe OF harmony should prevail between the
Y.rn as a whole and the wearer. Take such a
sstnnIe color as blue. for instance; every woman
s,ows how one shade OF blue in dress will COM
,.,slv destroy another, and how disagreeable the
ssvtsnositon is OF two shades which do not accord
Ia vet a woman with blue eyes assumes that
very shade OF blue is becoming TO her. whereas one
,na will intensity the coloring of her eyes and an
,,ar will cause them to look pale and faded. while
srl another will turn them positively green. The
.,Iv safe rule is to take different blues TO a strong
rrb, and actually match them with the eye itself
with the various shades OF pink the same rule
holds good in regard TO the complexion. Some
h-oxns cause the hair to look muddy. while others
helm 10 bring the glnts Of rich color which may
no found more or less in every shade OF healthy
dark hair Tans affect blond colorng in the
manner The only way determine what shades
hest suit each individual is to carefully study juxta
,osition in a strong light.
II is astonishing that people Of taste do not
design and build their own houses-particularly
xhen II IS only a simple seaside mountain cottage
that is involved. With a trustworthy builder to
carry out ideas and correct any faults Of construc
,on in nine cases out of ten much more success
h,l cottage will be built than if architect who
has no personal interest In the place and no time
10 study its peculiarities draws the plans and ee
yations These. however satisfactory they may ap-
pear upon paper. often look ugly and even in
wngruous after they are erected.
"A house should be fitted the land like glove
20 a hand" said a well-known amateur who has
hlt several cottages in the woodlands most sue
cessfuly land 1t just this quality of adaptation
ua; the ordinary architect is 50 apt TO lack. Even
hose who have the taste and dscernment have not
always the time 10 bestow the thought or eXpend
their originality a small comparatively unre-
munerative order whereas the owner can concen-
rate his or her talent and ability on the one build
ing besides having the strong incentive Of owner
ship to stimulate and interest. Many people. how
ever, feel that there is only one correct oonven-
tional way TO build house. and that an accredited
architect must draw the plans; otherwise the roof
will leak the plumbing will so wrong, the floors Will
II he I'M 10 a AN
reflect that
The best laid plans o mice and men
Gang aft aglee
And that II the builder is incompetent the most
elaborate plans and specifications may be useless.
whereas IL he is trustworthy and intelligent he will
carry out the ideas expressed in rough drawing
quite as well the very elaborate directions writ
ten out in the most technical manner.
OF course, for large. important work n good
architect is necessity, but for small compara lively
inexpensive houses there is why people
should not have the fun OF exercising their own
taste and designing their own cottages. In
mountainous country where several friends con-
Guided to build camp cottages together the most
happy result was obtained by each person originat-
rg his own plans All the cottages but one proved
complete successes. the bette nor being a vila-ke
structure which timid lady, distrustful Of her
ability confded to her architect. He had built
for her very substantial and satisfactory brown
haed to grasp the situation when some thing very
eheap and simple wanted. and the result was
"Queen-Anne-in- Mary Ann-at ck'
sort OF house. that looked as If i might belong to
prosperous mechanic.
Rsd!cule has killed custom that fifteen or twenty
years ago constituted OF the characteristic feat
Of the fashionable quarters Of LOndon-the use
o, the so-called attachments These Indictments con-
sisted 0. large black frames incoslng black ground
ir.nn ,rbfc into rms a n
were hung lozenge- fashion, the facade Of the
house in which the death either OF the master, the
mistress the eldest son had taken place. IT was
generally affixed to the wall. midway between the
first and second story, as nearly as poss!oe IN the
centre OF the building. and sometimes the back
ground was powdered with drops OF silver to repre-
sent tears and adorned with skulls and crossbones
at the corners. Up 10 the beginning OF the Victor
ian era no one was entitled either by usage or by
etiquette 10 Il funeral escutcheon the front Of his
house unless his her ancestors on each side pos
sessed arnorial bearings for four generations back
But there are now few families in London who could
pass 50 rigid a requirement, and so many influential
parvenus who now occupy conspicuous place in the
London world adopted this gloomy symbol or be-
reavement. displaying the most preposterous coats
0. arms. that the whole custom degenerated INTO
yulgartty and ridcule.
In one way. however, the dsuse or Indictments
has had an unfortunate effect upon London society.
There is a growing and deplorable tendency
o. the part OF It's members TO abbreviate as far as
possible all periods of mourning, tendency when
has been observed in New-York, by the way. One
finds people Ike the Duchess OF Devonshire giving
nooting parties within four weeks after the death
Of her son, while the case related in "Dodo' OF a
young Inatron OF Mayfair who attended dance
three weeks after the death OF her baby Is by no
means 0yerdrawn or exceptional In olden tunes
a. this was out OF the question Etiquette demand
"a that the hatchment should remain on the Iafade
N the house for twelve months, and II was obvious
impossible 10 carry any festvity or gayety
within a mansion thus marked by the mana or
death
Among the new Easter souvenirs are the quaint
est penw!pers. mounted with an egg dresser up
~ the cooked hat and historical coat or Napo'eoh'
This is an especially amusing figure. and may be
made quito a clever burlesque II carefully dohe'
" IS the "a addition the NapoleOnc fad. INC