New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-23
AN ENGLISH ROAD.
FROM STAFFORD TO COVENTRY
THROUGH MANUFACTURERS ON
FOOT AND ON WHEELS

The highway from Stratford- on Avon to Coven-
,-r through Warwick and Kenilworth is one OF
,be beaten tracks OF American travel From May
until November tourists are to be met at almost
every turn of the road This circuit enters into
almost every newcomers itinerary as one which
must be made In order that the pretension OF hav-
ting seen anything in England may be justified
urhen the traveller returns TO his own country 1t
Ia one Of the first Journeys TO be planned by the
incoming sghtseer, following Chester. II he ar
r,ves at Liverpool. or being taken after Windsor
and oxford II he starts from London. Because 1t
,s AZ the top OF the list OF things which must be
done whatever else may be neglected this jour
ney is likely TO be made with reckless American
energy The distances are short. railway trains
are frequent. and 1t is possible for an impetuous
traveller TO see Stratford Warwick Kenilworth
and Coventry in a single day. have known men
n do IL and to plume themselves for enterprise;
but energy is not virtue on historic ground H.
lumined by the tranquil loneliness Of the most ex-
ouisite rural scenery in England. Fortunate is
the tourist who goes over this famous road on his
cycle and is content to wait day at every one Of
the four stations. Happier still is the enthusiast
who walks every mile Of the way and taking no
note Of time. gives himself up to the serene en-
ioynent OF the Shakespeare country, It will be a
dreamy sentimental journey, but one full Of men
tal exaltation and delight.
Americans. however. are not to be reproached
for lack OF appreciation OF the memories and beau
ties of Warwickshire. They know the Shake
speare country and all the historic places In Eng
land better than the we'll born English themselves
who are not sightseers unless they go abroad.
The American tourist. who makes an industrious
use OF a three months vacation ends by seeing
more OF England than the educated. wel-to-do
t-tt
pay to a country house ORG business errand to oc-
cupy him. When enthusiastic American, who
has been over the rounds OF the cathedral towns
and has seen the stored places In Warwickshire.
Yorkshire and the Southern counties. finds him
self in a circle OF English friends he IL astonished
BY the indifference with which they regard his
toric scenes and associations. 1t is not that they
consider IL provincial TO admire talk about
English scenery. They have not seen II. They
have never taken the trouble to visit the stately
cathedrals. quaint churches. picturesque castles,
and beautiful ivy-clad ruins. which have excited
the Americans admiration and quickened his
Imagination. They know less than he does about
the relics Of Englands splendid antiquity. Among
fifteen twenty guests at an English country
house there will not perhaps be one who has ever
been In Stratford. or has seen the ancient towers
O. Warwick Castle mirrored In the Avon or has
turned away from the crumbling ruins OF Amy
Robsart's Kenilworth 10 watch for the first
glimpse of Coventry with its three tall spires.
They know a few localities where they are enter
tanned at great houses season after season. but
the remainder of rural and provincial England Is
10 them almost unknown land. The masses In
England take advantage Of holidays and cheap
excursion trains and see something Of their coun-
Try but the classes whose lives spent in Lon
fgffl ohO no
famous places which are visited every year by
hundred thousand American tourists.
OLD sHRINEs AND THIEVERY.
Perhaps the throng OF sightseers at Stratford is
large enough already without additional patron
age from wealth and fashion in England. My
good friend Mr.. william Winter. is in Scotland
and will not see this letter so that can speak
freely. Indeed II is hardly possible for pill
grim OF any refinement OF sensbrty to approach
that shrine Of genius without experiencing some
unpleasant emotions The arrival OF train Is
the signal for a loud chorus Of harsh outcres
from competing cabmen eager for job 'All the
Shakespeare shows for three shillings in an hours
time" one enterprising driver will shout; The
whole business for four shilling, with Anne Hath
avav's cottage thrown in" will be another bid;
and as soon as a bargain is made the showmans
trade is piled with all the mannersms OF dime
museum The only occupation of the town seems
10 be trading upon the memory OF the immortal
sp,rit which has gloriied 1t and redeemed II from
obscurty and neglect Every street sign utiilZes
IN some way the famous name; every shop Is
filed with photographs and cheap nemehtoes'
and at every turn somebody is waiting loi
shilling or for sixpence OF tribute money to the
memory Of Shakespeare. Distracted and an
moved hv q traffic which may be natural and even
necessary but which accords as Ill with the dell
cate sensibility Of a devout pilgrim as the aHDi-
,ous red brick and terra Gotta memorial building
does with the quaint town, the peaceiui parish
church and the gentle pastoral scenery ne MAKES
his way uneasily from one point TO another Hsten
Ing 70 the expana tions Of vouole guides signing
registers receiving printed souvenirs ana mana
ing counterfoils 70 attendants. Not even IN the
famous church does he escape from the trlcKs OF
trade and urgent appeals for restoration Iuhos
II Is in a sordid trafhcking atmosphere such as
this that he seeks to concentrate MS thoughts
and pay reverent homage to master MIND
His is the happiest experience VINO app'oA0"e'
stratford on foot from Warwick or from Banbury
Cross keeping far from the maddihg crown .,
visitors. cabmen and guides, roaming aheld
among the hills Of the Shakespeare country
sauntering aimlessy through the quaint outiy-
ing villages and catching at last glimpse OF the
gray splre of the church. He sees without us
traction Of mind the tranquil meadows the shape
ly trees and the bright river wnich were associ-
a,ed with shakespeares youth ana whici he'peu
to sweeten his nature to broaden MS hiihu anu
to light up his Imagination. Then a' e'ei''aii
when the show business of the day Is over ne
crosses the old stone bridge, draws near Tue
church. with its sacred dust and passes Oh III nc
twilight to the gabed birth-house to s'ahd a""''e
in silence. without interruption from shopNeepei
Or shllng-taker He will feel as wen as see
Stafford. and that is more important IMAM man
ing the circuit Of the town shows and ticking U'i
one by one the requirements OF the suiue'oon
Byron thought II a curse to understand not leei'