Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-07-19

ming and make. It is most depressing to wear mourning garments at the best and to be in company with those whose somber habiliments tell of recent bereavement, and while little judicious ornament or elaborateness in the application of the crape does not show disrespect for the dead it is certainly less depressing for the wearer and beholder than the hard lines hereto fore deemed necessary Widows still wear the close bonnet with its white cap that tells its story of the wrench that tore apart a loving couple Some widows wear white null strings to their bonnets or Stiffer book muslin tied in set and rather stiff bows under the chin. Others have black strings but generally speaking the white ones look the best. The veil is long and heavy and for the first two months should be worn over the face. The gown may be and often is entirely covered with English -crape, which is the only kind suitable or indeed over used for deep mourning, or the gown itself may be of eudora cloth, silk warp henrietta, or where these goods are too expensive a very fine black cash
 mere can be used. But cashmere is too soft to look well with heavy crape. The old bombazine was good, but has few ad
 hcrents on account of its weight. The silk warp fabrics have just the right weight and firmncss. The dress, then, for first mourning may he of cudora and have the crnpe added to any depth or amount, and later the crape may be removed, lcav- ing d perfect dress. quite elegant enough for any occasion and still bo mourning gown by association with the always pres cnt veil shorter Veils may be worn after six months for ordinary occasions, but for church or any other similar need the long veil is dc rigucur.
 Capes and clOaks follow the fashion of +aIr NNfNI heavily with crapo and sometimes luster- less ribbon. Tho lady of truly refined taste will not use glittering jet on any article of her attire.
 For the grown daughters who have lest | u parent there arc handsome gowns which are sufficiently ornate to please any taste
 without being frivolous. The oldest daugh-
 ter wears veil hanging from the back of
 her bonnet as long as she wishes to have it, with fine net veil with an inch wide crapc border over he face. Shc can have rib bon or crapc bows and a few black flowers or dull wings. The dress for first mourn ing may be laid in panels with crape and eIdora alternating, or her whole dress may | be of Cr;lpC with inScts of cloth at tho bot tom of the skirt. Her waist may be blouse | shaped of crapc, with its combination | slightly ornamcnted with dull jet. These | matters are generally left to the dress n1tlkcF ana Inc lnulNluubl ldSlS OL tLG | wcarcr, but in any case the combination is always sharply marked. Black crepon and | lissc ruchipgs are frequently seen at the | nccks and wrists of mourning gowns One l home gown which was made for a second daughter has plain skirt with an inset 1 panel of crape, the rest being silk warp | henrietta. The vest front was crape, with | revcrs of the dress goods wrought with
 fine dull jet. The collar was the same. | Beneath the rcvers were the short falls of | embroidered silk crape. Small cuffs added | touch of dreSsiness. Hats for the young arc of milan, leghorn, ncapolitan, and
 some are of rough black straw, trimmed
 with crape, dull quill feathers and luster
 less black ribbon as we'll as crape ill various l ways of trimming. Some hats for young l persons are made of shirred brussels net, | with trimming of crape rather scantily ap- | piled. For everyday the Milan and black
 ribbons are best. However young the
 wcarcr, no dress goods is equal to tho silk
 warp henrietta or eudora, the former be
 ing rather lighter, but the latter the more | beautiful and moro durable. Short capes
 of the dress material trimmed as heavily
 as the case may demand with crape arc | suitable wraps now.
 In lingerie for half mourning there art
 sheer muslin collars and cuffs stitched
 with black and edged with crere lisse ruff
 filings, white or black. Some collars fol