The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-04-21

way, Greenwich street and Wall street.
Then came the uptown movement to
Chambers, Murray and Warren streets,
with the ultra smart set on Blocker street;
Fourteenth street and Union square fol-
lowed, but that was regarded as wildly
hazardous. Business men left their homes
for their counting-rooms at a morning
hour that would be looked upon now as
heathenish, absurd The man of fashion,
the dandy" turned out as he does to-day
at noon, faultlessly dressed, his long hair
scented and pomaded in glossiness,
smoothly curled under in roll lying on
his coat collar Gloved, hated and oaned,
he would stroll along, the observed OF all
observers, to the Irving House, or later to
the New York Hotel, there to meet his
friends, sit perhaps in the window, watch
ing the ladies passing by, for women
walked then much more than they do now,
the shops being all within easy reach OF
their residences. At precisely half-past
the ''dandies" would wend their way
homeward, as fashionable New Y rk dined
at o'clock punctually, and a sense of
devoir caused them to be present at that
meal-as they never sat with their families
at any other.
The ladies spent the afternoon in driv-
ing, visiting or receiving visits. The pond
erous family coach, deliberately trimmed
up with cloth, gimp and fringes, would
appear at o'clock. When days were long
and pleasant the drives would extend to
Bloomingdale or across to Astoria. Other
wise to the rural sections of Twenty-third
street or Murray Hill, where New York's
greatest beauty, Mrs. Coventry Waddell,
had her Gothic cottage and where every
body who was anybody, delighted to go.
While the driving was going on the muffin
and trumpet man and Shaddle's cake car
rier were making their rounds, supplying
ali ha hinb FOO nio in.
the evening the silver-ladened mahogany
had its pretty gatherings in silks, satins
and laces; jeweled rings on fingers and
ears, long and short curls, very large bus
ties and very small waists.
Over the teacups ran pleasant chatter,
the latest on dts, the bantering speech of
man and maid, with raptures over Jenny
Lind, transports over the peerless dancer,
Fanny Elsler. What do you think of
Parodi? of Salvi? From opera talk to
merriment and laughter over the actor,
Burton; the chic Mary Taylor and her
singing; on to dinners, balls, and slyly
some very mild scandal, indeed. But
even so-quickly brought to their PAGES
were these youngsters by the matrlarchs
watchful eye and sharp ear. The evening
passed with music, the harp and piano.
Military marches were the favorites on the
latter Poor and mediocre they were, and
airs sung on the former from the "Bo-
hemian Girl" then the craze. At IL
o'clock the house was wrapped in pro-
found silence and darkness. Out on the
street, oil lamps far apart, casting weird
shadows on the marble house, where slept
these fair daughters.
If ever the silence of the night was broken
it was by the blood-curdling cry of Fire
fire! firel" The household commotion
was fearful and so was the sound of the
awful bell that rang out the direction of
II. @1o,N1 e1,Nl
from their warm beds, tore into their fire.
clothes and caps and ran like mad to meet
their engine to run her full speed to the
fire. This had, in its way, all the pleasure
and excitement of sport; it was the polo
and football of the day, rolled up into one
tremendous exertion that men needed so
sorely.-From Vogue.
Every woman has her photograph taken,
but the result proves that a lamentable
number know nothing about the best way
to make the most of themselves. ''The
greater number of sitters are utterly ignor-
ant as to how materials, colors and styles
of costume will appear in the finished por-
trait, and the operator is blamed for what
is, as a rule not his fault. As a
rule it is well-and should be required-to !
avoid very positive patterns, such as large |
plaids checks, wide stripes and much Jet |
or other glittering trimming and much |
jewelry.
Sharp contrasts in materials, trimming
or style of cut are decided detriment to |
pleasing portrait, and, as rule, the tone
of color should harmonic with the sitter's |
complexion and hair. Glistening silks are
difficult to light well, as is any material
which does not easily lend itself to soft |
folds. Dead luster silks, soft woolens,
grapes, feecy tissues and similar materials |
are always effective.
These hints are worth remembering. |
Moreover, one is advised to soften, by rem
dering it indefinite, the line between skin |
and dress both at neck and wrists, for it is
wise to remember that, however well cos
tune may sometimes look in reality, it |
does not always photograph well, and may |
call attention to what might otherwise |
never be noticed.
The advance that has been made in cy-