The herald., 1895-02-03

has been very gay this last week, Mrs
"Jack" Aston has given dinner and OF
Tuesday her mother-in-law sent out in
vitations for another in spite of tht
recent death in the family. The uecond
Patriarch's ball went off with grea
eclst. and was even more successful
than the first. The gowns worn by the
debutantes and young matrons were
prettier than usual, and so many of our
"millionairesses" appeared with dia-
mond coroDsta that it almost seemed al
if one were surrounded by sll the
crowned heads of Europe.
Never has fashion been 80 devoid Of
novslty az at this season OF the year
! The spring fabrics are with uq, but the
spring modes bide their time and will
not be tempted to declare themselves
Every year Worth. Doucet, Felix OF
come other OF the great Psrisian coutu-
rlerS try to revive draperlea, but with
apparently very little euccsss. The
plain a&ifts are go very becoming that
they are chung to desperately by the
msjority, and fortunately the jupes we
are now wesring are so very wide and
heavy that to drape them would be well
nigh impossible, 30 perhaps this season
we may be spared that perennial effort.
THE KNELL OF THE BIG SLEEVE.
1t is said, and oh let rs hope that IT
may be true. that the first knsll hes
been ruDg for the death OF the abnor-
NAL sleeve. 1t needed winter wraps,
perhaps, to make US realize the full
enormity of this mode, but now that we
| daJ n
| language in our efforts to adapt our out
door garments to the hugh exCresce cea
on either shoulder, we are more than
willing to ring cut this old vogue and
ring in the new. A rumor from Worth
says that many OF the next evening
models to be presented will have tho
Vatican sleeve, tight from shoulder to
to elbow, and finishing with deep ruff
fle at the back; and although every
reason to believe that reaction has be.
gun in favor OF moderation, it may be
matter of regret to some OF US that
evening, and not day, sleeves will prob
ably he the first TO be altered.
DAZZLING COLOR CONVERSATIONS.
What wonderful com biEations are
abroad today; with what daring touches
do we not invest our millinery and our
gowns. Take q walk down Broadway or
Sixth avenue and careful view of the
shop windows will reveal such startling
mixtures as rose pink, purple and
turquoise blue violet, damesk and scar
let; green, puce and yellow and azure /;
and the amazing part Of II is that these
com binations are most attractive, and
that every woman who does not boast
several spots of bright color about her
appears dowdy AMI out OF the world OF
fashion; while it may be obaerved that
this introduction of pretty colors into
the dreary atmosphere OF winter is of
distinct value, pictorially speaking. and
the New York atreets look all the prot
tier for it.
One of our most fashionable women
lately appeared in. stunning costume
that was very good example OF this
riotous mixing OF colors. Her skirt was
of purple-hued zibeliDe, her bodice was
satin, OF dehlis hue. Round her neck
was tied a turquoise blue ribbon, and
her hat took up the tone Of her skirt,
with few folds of lighter colored velvet
round the brim, and a trimming Of
| clumps of shaded pink chryeanthemnm
and black wings The turquoise blue
round Der neck was o daring touch, but
|
would have worn 9 pale pink ribbon.
and achieved merely harmony Instead
OF brilliant success TO which the rose
pink lining Of her esslskin contributed
in nc smsll degree.
Dark fur coats call cloud for these
touches of color. OF course, il is neoes-
nsry that their selection be guided by
the artistic spirit which, We are bound
to confess, does not sesm possessed OF
everybody; and if you once choose a
wrong violet, g wrong red, q wrong pink,
q wrong blEe-ifone shade goes one iota
false, the whole picture is spoilt OF
once. Lessons in color might we'll be
added to the scholastic curriculum,
which is, ct the moment, strangely de-
fcient in the best arts which are necss-
sery to woman. The art of how to do
her hair, how to tie 6. bow, how to ad-
juat lace bib. ETC., they are ell neglect
cd while the lliad is studied but hsre-
in liea g great question which csunot
be discussed in Ia nroall spacs in q minor
moment
1t is quite remarkable, tho coNtinued
affection that is evinced for chiffon.
Why, it ia even permitted to decorate
SONS Of this new French felt hats. Virot
has lately cent cvsr drab felt hat
which behrs q scarf OF black chiffon,
with killed ends resting on either side
of the hair st the back, together with
laEgs punches OF red roses and violets.
Formerly, prejudice would have pre-.
veAted us from considering this tlmey
fabric Rs eniEsd to winter wear; but that
wss formerly. Today we have agreed
that whatever ia elegant is right in the
world Of fashion, aad We do not take ths
troubls TO study such minor points as
mere congruity. Do No not decorate the
throsts of our saalakin COATS with chiffon
ruches, and allow white lace, sable tails
and violete to appear together on the
most ,nodish millinery.
VERY PRETTY HAT.
And apropos of millinery, such {
pretty toque was met with the othe
day at fashionable tss, that it wei
merits short description. This crown
entirely made of sable. wrsathed round
with bunches of Nsapolitan violets, and
pink, red aud yellow roses, whilst al
one aide stood erect the inevitable black
osprey, and little bouquets OF roses were
arranged ct each corner OF the black t(
give that effect of width without which
no woman of today is complete.
Quite novelty 10 cloth costumes ii
to cut them out in an open design. Du
not to stitch round the holes. These
cut-out designs are lined with differ
ent color, like the usual open work en-
|