davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1895-11-28
Well Dressed Men and What
They Are Wearing
FOR FALL AND WINTER
Some New Ideas for the Men--Up to
Date Novelties
In Canes, Collars, Cuffs and Costume and
Some Other Things Some OLD
Fashions Revived

Now approacheth the winter and the
fashionable man hierh himself to his
tailor to procure tho garments necessary
| to disport himself on the waves OF society
and to replace the comfortable summer
| hanuels with the warmer and more con-
| ventional attire for city wear.
| The styles in mems clothing to the
superficial observer, seem to vary little
from season to season. and indeed from
year to year, but De not deceived, for to
the critic eye of the society man, the
cut of the collar, the spring IN the
trousers and the many details OF the
whole, make or mar u mans reputation
us a correct dresser"
In the evening clothes there is strong
prejudice againet any such marked change
as shall make last seasons garments IN.
| wearable, and all innovations as to color
and material have met with disapproval.
This year, however. the tailors say,
the evening coat is cut With LONGER col
lar. longer roll, and less tapered. shorter
skirts, the difference being as patent 10
the trained eye, as changes OF form OF
adoption of color.
The two styles given are the ones worn
by the smart set. and while both peaked
lapel and shawl roll are CONNIE il faut, the
former is in greater demand. Inc mate
Tials Procured, as heretofore are the fine
twlilS ana Cl0tn InlSGeQ WOrStsus' ScN-
eral suits were iUted.
The material is dress worsted, the
gorge is extremely low and long, the
ispels are decidedly peaked. the corner OF
skirt and lapels ore nearly square, and
the edges are corded or bound to initiate
cord, and the sleeve IS finished with a
simulated cuff closed with two buttons.
The side bodies are narrow, the shout
ders are natural width. the side seams
we'll curved over the blades and the skirts
are finished with French press.
The waistcoar Is single-brsasted, closed
with -four buttons, has sbisld-shaped
opening, but no collar.
The trouser, are cut straight in the leg,
small at Ihe bottom, but we'll Followed
over the instsp and moderate s!zs at the
knee; the side seams are finished with
plain or fancy braid.
Shawl Roll Dress suit Figure |.
The model is shown in undressed wors-
ted for the coat and trousers, and Mar
settles for the waistcoat The cut is m UGH
the same as the above. The roll, which IL
of m od crate length, is covered with satin,
the corners and lapels are rounded, the
edges are corded, and the sleeve Gnish
is also an imitation cuff with two but.
tons.
The waistcoat of Marselles is double
shield-snaped opening and collar OF me.
dium width.
The blouses of the undressed worsted
are of the same pattern as in figure /.
Fur informal dinner wear the Tuxedo
still ends admirers among the comfort
loving among the gay and festive revel-
lers. 1t will be cut much tie same as
last season, and the shawl-roll, silk col
lar is preferred, although the peaked
The herald., 1895-11-28


if you wanted to, but your oonduct in not
admitting your friends to Jour wedding
breakf asst was selfish and Ahaboy.
Stephen: Certainly she should send
back your letters. If your affections are
set up)n her letters keep them; they are
probably duplicates.
Househ older: No, do not consider q
5x5 lot good pasture fer fine healthy
COW. 2. A little cream will be ben fetal.
Aunt Billy: think you did wrong in
poisoning your ne,ghbor's cats, even
though tn 'ir owners did annoy you by
hammering and piano playing; 1t only
cost you needless expense.
G. S. W.: Opera hats with tweed suits
are not considered good form. nor does
the well-dressed man wear Q straw hat.
negligs collar and cutaway coat. At
functions the smart set no longer eat PEA
nuts nor chew gum.
r. H. B.: Your magnificent propor-
tions Justify you in wearing willy
body, and if you look anything like
your photograph, wear wbiskers, beard
and moustache by all means; try vase
line.
Tia Juana: Certainly, ride bicycle II
you want to. Why notr Don't hesitate
in doing anything that your womanly
instinct tells you is all light. Be gentle.
Don't lose your temper and dont te
prOud,
The herald., 1895-11-28

and black and evening shades, with ster-
ling silver slides. In hosiery the brill
liant coors for morning, with low shoes,
in Scotch plaius and stripes give place
to the back silk for evening wear, for,
although it is not a sin. it is as bad form
to wear low shoes alter lunch as to sport
a Prince Albert before that ceremony.
scarf pins are smaller. and diamonds are
relegated entirely to the ladies, and
small psar.shaped pearls are the rage,
both in studs and pins. Watch fobs are
fashionable. The prettiest are watered
silk with seals or gold slides or buckles.
Visiting cards are rather smaller and
light running script is preferred. The
opera hat has come to stay. This year
these hats are the same shape MS the tile
and come in corded silk, satin and me-
rIno. They are convenient and service
able and also unusually becoming.
Silk hat for dress occasions has always
been tie corfect thing, and the shape is
much the same: the brim trfe small
and the crown bell. But never sport q
tile with a sack coat and brown
shoes, as saw man on Spring street
the other day, and he looked as self-satis-
The herald., 1895-11-28
fed as If 10 knew himself to be the very

fed as If To knew himself to be the very
mirror OF fashion.
Dark browns and tans are worn to har-
monte With the rev brown suitings SO
popular TINS winter. and in the west e.
pecially the Fedora is worn, us il is so
comfortable and appropriate for the eli
mate; a gray with black band is some-
thing new.
Derbies have rather higher crowns,
ana come in black; also seal browns and
tans.
The new man IL a. dainty as his sister,
and some of the smoking jackets and
dressing gowns are very fetching. The
former come in velvots and corduroys.
and in tho latter there is an attem pit to
revive the large old.fashioned figures.
This tendency toward bright colors is
shown IN the ties, fancy vestings and col
ored shirts.
Pajamas are dainty in silk and gay
dannels.
In shoes there is littls change. Enam.
eled calf skin and russets have heavy
soles ana last showing wide outside Scot
edge, and for evening q beautiful hand
turned patent leather congress, with
cloth top and slightly pointed toe, is pre-
ferred, though the pump is shown-and
worn.
And now, mesdames, il you want any
more advice rs to the proper caper, Just
drop line to
Your Most Obedient Servant,
ADOLPHE HYPOLlTE DE DUDE.
The herald., 1895-11-28
He now CAM walk but little and has to
be helped In and out of his carriage.

He now CAM walk but. little and has to
be helped in and out of his carriage.
George Brown, coiored, a native OF
Virginia, has O certificate from his former
m astei setting forth the fact that he was
Orleans og sn he e' says s'G he blaofs, aeorss
Washington's boots and lighted his
cigars. For q man 131 years OF age,
Brown is well preserved, especially in bis
imaginative faculties.
Hip Sing Lee, q rich Chinaman of San
rarcisco. offers an interest in his bust
ness and $4,000 cash to any American who
Sing had 5000 daughters he could dispose
OF Them all on these terms, provided the
cash held out.
Sir Henry Hawkins once said to m an
WIN. after pleading guilty to charge
OF larceny. withdrew the plea and was
acquitted: Prisoner, Q few minutes ago
you said you were thief. Now tho jury
says you are liar. Consequently you
are discharged"
Minister DENLY has travelled over China
more thoroughly than any mem Der OF the
diplomatic corps at Pek,n. He's been
peekin round everywhere, be has.
1t was clever Engiishman who, whom
M. 10 Blanc was mistaken at a garden
party for page, replied: IN. Blanu ia
pag e-of history.
The congregation of bishops and cleri.
cal orders in Rome has decided that tele-
phones may be placed IN the closed
cloisteis OF the Catholic church es. As
safeguard, moreover, two of the older
nuns must always be present when an
inmate answers call.
The German Emperor's portrait has
The herald., 1895-11-28

Let us give over clubs for awhile and
start training school for mothers, says
o man. We do not need anything SO
much in the world MS good mothers. As
we'll expect the housekeeper to turn out
q batch of good cookies if she makes them
of sawd ust and alum, as to expect the
children to develop into good citizens
without the right sort OF mothers. The
right sort of mother knows where her
boy is all day long. She spends her time
entertaining him rather than entertain-
ing shallow headed callers from everlast-
ing to everlasting. She tells him stories.
reads to him and picks out tunes with
him on the piano. She IS "chummy"
with him, too, and has bis com plete con.
fdence. She doesn't allow her girls TO 20
to he depot to see the tf.ins come in,
nor does she permit them to spend
nights away from the guardianship OF
their own home. She is watch full at the
same time that she Is Kind. loving al
ways, but never IahRuid In the perform
ance OF those duties which the vast re-
sponsipility of motherhood has laid
upon her. Give US better mothers and
the world will suon bs full of better men
and women.
The herald., 1895-11-28
A JOB LOT

The Present Question-Some Venerable Jokes.
The Chrysanthemum Dude-tints on Dress
and Address - Practical Scheme for
Transporting Climate - Advice to Old
Bachelors
When you are tying your brains into
hard knots trying to think OF a suitable
Christmas present for Isabel or some
other belle, remind yourself that it is
always safe to send books, music, flowers
and candy to girl friends. In We olden
times beaux were won't to present their
ladies fair with fans of peIfumed sandal
wood ACCOMPANIED by sonnets as family
sweet.
In some cases the fan might be admis-
sible today, but it would perhaps be safer
to omit the sonnet. One poor fellow con-
tessed to me that he sent a girl a dia-
mond pin and mad it returned to him.
Perha ps IN these hard times men need
rot be reminded to keep within the role
of etiquatte that bars out things of great
money value. For those within a m ore
intimate circle the tempter has provided
an endless variety of articles. ranging
from bicycles to button hooks, and from
carved furniture ant sets of china TO
purses, gloves and feminine nick
nacks generally.
Then there are always the jewelry
The herald., 1895-11-28

from he bits, party prsjudioes. tradition
and fashion, from the toll and the moil
of sordid living-a veritabIe pobleman.
With the majesty of Apollo on brow and
shoulders, he moves like Mercury at will
through the earth or sea or ai:, WELDING
not only the trident OF Neptune and the
thunder holt OF Jovo but Juno's scepter
too. While thus he holds the powers of
nature in his hand and sweeps the uni
verse with his tutored eye, like Enoch of
old he walks with God, even less a
giant in stature and in intellect than in
love and faith and grasp of t. eternal.
The prophecy Of the ages is he-the
brother of his kinds-the consummate
gentleman
The herald., 1895-11-28
SOCIETY NOTES
See Dickens, Thackary, Curtis and Warner
+ 4 4

I !iveryine course OF lectures on hygiene
IN the city. Z.
| A bright and shining light of Washing
| ton street has evolved the idea of bottiing
up some OF our surplus California sun
shine and sending it east for cold -nosed
fasteners TO bask in. This gigantic
scheme is worth pushing along.
There is vendor OF green goggles on
Broadway who does much to mar the
classic beauty of Los Angeles falrest
men. 1t is plain we can spare the sun
shine.
A word about the old bachelors who
firmly cling to their single blessednves.
Has so much fun been poked at the old
maids that the OLD bachelors have escaped
their proper share? In this age OF equality
can we not see that there should be the
same sauce for the gander as for the
goose? What is there Sd very Irresistible
about us after we reach the forty notch
bald headed, our months veritaDle sold
mines, our faces mapped with deep lines,
the ghosts OF many smiles and frowns?
Yet we society men OF uncertain age still
hover about the fairest young buds the
season produces, looking Coldly the while
upon the more mature charms of those
women who were our comrades years ago.
In fact. we have grown 50 young and
frivolous that We almost forget whether
they were our friends or our fathers.
And the sweet girls to whom we pay our
Indian summer devotion, getting rheu-
matism in their service at picnics, and
influenza at lawn parties, how do they
rate W? At best as material to fill gaps
in programs, or to talk with wnen some
gay Prince Charming has forgotten that
this is his waltz or toestep. 'Lor. let's
tie comurta BILE, " as Mrs. Baffin said.
Each period of life has its own inward
copmensations and its own outward
graces. Let us not be nohbledehoys, imi-
tat on nobbledehoys at that, past forty.
Dropping this masquerade of youth,
The herald., 1895-11-28
WHAT MEN ARE DOING

James Whitcomp Riley has taken to the
bicycle. We may soon expect a poem in
this vein:
Now this is what like,
A-scootin through the country astral
die OF bike.
Amt it real pleasant, a-dodgin' mud
and rock,
When the frost is on the pumpkin and
the fodder in the shock.
Bismarck IS geetting very feeble Be.
fore his birthday mis- health seemed vis-
IDLY better, but the reception of delega-
lions Of visitors and The protractsd cels-
brations weakened the princes vitality.
The herald., 1895-11-28

Jack Grisby of Lawrenceburg N. Y, was
engaged In storing pumpkins in the lott
OF his barn, and his 6-ysar.old girl was
Standing near BY watching him. A large
rolled from the loft. and falling struck
the girl in her upturned face. bending
her head suddenly back ward, breaking
her neck and causing instant death.
The herald., 1895-11-28

which imposes uopn 40 one, least of all
upon ourselves, let us try to gain back
the favor of the dear old Misses Passee.
who will understand and appreciate us
because we rightly belong with them. If
by any cGance we should catch the mat
rimonial fever now raging violently in
the city. so much the better, and when
our marriage licenses are published it
won't take an expert accountant to find
out the difference between the age of con-
tracing parties. JACK.
The herald., 1895-11-28

clothing in harmony with thoss con.
tours.
women can give themselves with tho pos
81 bility OF greater results.
To give added beauty 10 all women and
health and strength to the whole human
race is an object worthy the conscientious
attention OF every woman.
SARAH F. JUDSON.
The herald., 1895-11-28
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

George: Do not consult fortune teller;
hard work is the only sure cure.
Reginall Vaseline is the only thing
know of to make mOustache grow.
Coffee drinking in moderation Will not
rsdden the nose.
Lover: I do not think that the mere
fact OF the young lady's gracious accept
ance OF two theater invitations three
bags of peanuts and bunch Of violets in
ono week is a sure indication that she
will favor your suit.
Boo: woman such as you describe
would not be a suitable wife for poor
man. Remem DER that pate dc foie gras
for one is salt herring for another.
Azusa: 1t is not customary in the
higher circIss of Los Angeles society,
with few trihing exceptions, to drink
with your spoon in your cup or out of
your saucer, nor is it considered good
form to use toothpick at the table.
Foreigner: You have been misin-
formed; at this date mountain lions and
rattlesnakes are almost unknown on the
streets of Los Angeles.
Englishman: In Los Angeles your
golf SUIT will not be good form at re-
cept ion, nor your tennis hannels at the
opera; by all means borrow dress SUIT
before you leave England.
J.P. c.. 1t was perfectly correct to
marry the girl of your choice on Sunday
The herald., 1895-11-28

the strongest of which the feminine heart
is capable. and it is cot ignoble, for the
highest type Of physical beauty includes
the charm of an attractive presence. fine
intelligence ana morpl excellence. A
society for the promotion Of physical
culture and correct dress was organizr d
in Chicago in 1888. 1t has mem bership
of two h inbred and fifty members, and
will serve as an excellent model. Much
hei pful literature has been published by
the society and can be obtained on ap.
piication. Its object Is mutual help
toward Learning the hieh hest standards OF
physical devslop1 ent and mutual counsel
towart realizing those standards in prac-
tical life. In other words, it is an effort
to reinstate the ideal proportions of
classic sculpture as the correct standard
of womaniy form, and to study proper
The herald., 1895-11-28

been painted by his mother-in-law. the
queen of England. Even the high born
are not free from suffering.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-05

at the promiscuous gathering. which displayed all
the uncouthness OF uncivized nature. believed
II due our position as representatives or the peo-
pie to think and even to say that perhaps In frat
cInizng in so hearty a fashion with our feliow-
citizens should dine somewhat apart from
them-in other words. have ourselves placed az a
table on another floor. where we might sun dis-
the affairs OF the Republic without Delng
disturbed and distracted by the general crowd.
received most respectful salute from the young
captain who. while quite ready 10 SIT GOWN ~
table with the sans-culottes, showed ME py MS
looks and his civilitea closely akin 10 gehu-
Elections. his desire to join the company Oh
the representatives Of the people, and to ENJOY
a privilege even at so early a date sald 10
him, Captain. you are invited to dine with
the Representatives" AS Bonaparte thanked me,
he called my attention TO the state 81 MS
coat out at the elbows. which caused him
t. dread not making presentable appearance al
our table. Although We paid very little afternoon
to matters Of dress just then Il was nevertheless
impossible not TO admit that the captain frisn.
have had n cleaner coat. go and get cnange,
said TO him, "at the military stores and tel the
commissary he has my orders for it. NO sooner
said than done. Bonaparte returned in very
short while. newly fitted out from the crown ot
his head to the soles of his boots. keeping himself
at respectful distance from the representatives
OF the people, hat ever in hand as low as Inc .ne
length of his arms allowed him to hold II. me
dinner went off as was Usual IN 'n ani.
mated conversation, In which Bonaparte al
intervals took part in the most vivacious
fashion: but. beginning already 10 play
the twofold role which was In his nature ne
managed to find time to alternate between the
dinner of the representatives Of the people, wherc
he was both so proud and happy TO have oeen al
mittcd. and that OF the sans-cuiottes seated III
the other dining room. to whom ne pald Vlsit as
II to testify his regrets at not being with tnen
and indulge I'm those italian coquetries OF which
here a glimpse. and OF which subsequent
chapters OF his life will reveal further particulars
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-05

kicking my heels all day long I can't afford to
b ESrs' q" Zone leon on. now sharp
,r,k,s ticket with much hurry. Bustes away
excltedy. forgetting change.
g. G ,relaxing acidity of manner)-Good bis Go
Giddy orb Single Miss?
Ciildy Girl-Oh. no. not single. I'm coming back
b. Glow long might you have been married. |
e;lidv Girl mmused,-Oh. you silly. You
Young chaps always seem TO ave joke ready for
"' IL CDWhat are you doing next Sunday. Maudie?
eddy Gir,-Ieave off your nonsense. 10. Be-
siins nv name is Maudic rs Emma.
T. CT know lot OF girls named Emma. what
time are you coming back Emma? .s +. =,
sps are not for anything. Mother often says to
me: Emma" she says you're always su s,n0,! a
am 700 csalIant!yJ-Ah. / expect you're a saucy
Young prawn. Emma. II the truth was known
C;irl with vouble ser.ousness)-No. ! can't say
p'raps single young girl has any need to be 4 she
rwants 10 get married. but as often say VIII not
taik TO anybody who hasn't been introduced to me.
Tor I always do think girl with any-weli. what
"a G. lboreds-Youll miss your train, Emma, X
y9GH, rl"We must say goodby. suppose P'raps
I shall see you again ere some day: tShe goes!
ROY (shriy)-Alf a ticket ! said mister All a
n G. DECENTRALIZATION and your ALI ticket. You'll
never see twelve again. What age are you!
f,ov-Nother told TO say was twelve next
bIrthday Mother always tells us to say that.
r. c. giving ticket-Here you are Heres your
'aif ticket. But you give my compliments 70 your
mother and you tell her from me that II her 'even
years olds and a Bit don't move on tr1e more we
shall ave TO make em. Tell her. won't you? lClos-
Ing window with relief. Now for Just Ave minutes
% mesek
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-05

married to a maxwell bitterly. he calls hisself
n man. but II you ask me | should say he was
youngest OF EN- Two year and seven months old
and blocking Clerk goes away TO read a newspaper
her feelings lords her daughter no matter what
words may have passed between them, and
Young man ad,,,r Young W %am. ,.o,n again
Anxious tady-Yes; well, don't keep running
my daughters ,usblnd his name is Evans, but
often say II ought 70 be ell with temper like he's
go, when anybody offers him a word OF advice
but what wanted 10 say was
impatient voyagers-Pass along mother. You're
Anxious Lady-Oh. dear. Oh dear. How people
do scrowge. to be sure, They might just as well
take things calmly as keep on pushing each other
CAnxious Lady Is gently shunted by impatient
ANNOYED Gent with much severlty',1And pray
demand TO know why I'm FREQUENT passenger on
t. g. Well. because there amt That's why.
ANNOYED Gen, That's not good enough for me
than that. II you pleas. You needn't think I'm
to be put OF in that manner. and II You do you're
commonly mistaken. say.
Il. Chats all right then.
sir. It's not ali right How dare YOU say rs ali
right? say rs not all right.
Il. G. Agrceaby)-very well II amt all right.
Annoyed Cent tell You what II IT, my fine fell
low. You railways have got monopoly, and You
think you can ride ronghshod- absolutely rough
shod. say-over the people Of this country 'slaps
ANNOYED Gcnt-Then why the devil don't you
listen. s.r2 You represent the company; and tell
lie viii make A stand sir Mind you-(warmy)-
peat, sir that "A worm
3 {, definitely Look here DO You want
Annoyed cicni~Certainly 10 Most certainly
do Give me one AT once, ana don't keep me here
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-05
4 BRITISH HOLIDAY.
HEARD AT THE BOOKING OFFICE.

HEARD At TIFF. BODKINT OFFICrs
From The ST. Jamess Budget.
Window Of booking office at GREATNESS London
station. Through the brass fretwOrk surrounding
small opening passengers debate with smart cross
booking clerk ambushed within.
Booking Cierk-The other window. don't keep
telling YOU the other window. TO colleague);
It's marvel - why Of en- dare come
out OF doors without a nurse to look after EN-.
Cro mild passenger Third return where? Nlili
passenger repeats destination) All right. Don't bdwl
your head Off.
Anxious Lady-Peasc young man. I want to ask
the times OF the trains going to-
Il. c. (curtly)-Ask porter outside.
\. I.-You see. It's like this. young man; I'm ALI
thinking Of going down 10 my daughter who =