New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-05

vldrs roads and rewera ana builds hotels and
makes thr pInce beautiful aud comfortable Nice
f. an, mass If villas and hotels. ana ~ shops
which according g. the guidrbouk. ar" excellent,
i'm, in which you will seldom see anything that
vouid tempt YOU 49, gift. \ good deaf " honest
taxpayers money has been spent Ia decorating
the place ana in sanitary works. the latter be-
cause " a scare which sprang NJ generation or
less ago when the English papers assured you
that typhoid was indigenous and all but uni
vcrsal.
I don't imagine that anybody oyer counted the
hotels or that anybody but n good arlthmetican
would try. Some of them are rather good; all of
them are very dear, or all those t. which the
ordinary visitor goes. IT, however, You are con-
tent 10 live in one 81 these hotels as a French
man does: 10 take a bedroom in the garrett look
ing on n back yard and always 10 lunch ana
dine at table dh6te. or which comes To the same
thing at a fixed price YOU need not spend more
than you would spend at a good New-fork hotel
on the American plan. But If you must nave
parlor. and still more If. from choice or the COM
pulsion OF convalescence. you take your meals III
your paror your bill goes up by leaps ana
bounds Dine at the table dhotc and you escape
for 81 25 or. If at a separate table and later than
the impossible hour Of half-past six, for 81 %
But order soup and the wing of "A chicken In your
rooms and there is no longer "A tariff nor any
limit to extortion except the conscience OF the
landlord-in other words. none AZ all.
Your soup and chicken Will figure on the bill
nj more than double the price # a table d'h6te
which includes them and dozen dishes beside
If YOU are a rnillioi.are it does not matter If
Won are not the rule IS. here as elsewhere. TO
comply with the customs Of the country. For the
least departure from them you made To pay
heavily Still il is almost always better II pay
than to resist.
But never mind the hotels II you go 10 Nice or
anywhere else to worry over impudent items In
hotel bills you might we'll have stayed nj home
Not on such terms is health to be regainei.
Whether Nice or any part Of the Riviera be pre-
eminently a sana.orlum don't know. Wherever
you go there drawbacks. and II you study the
medical advice Of the handbooks-you had better
not except from pure curiosity-you VIII emu by
believing that there is not spot IN the municipal
fly which will not or may not for some reason or
other be deleterlous TO You. The sunlight ana sea
air will reassure you az soon as You nave sci loot
anywhere along the shore and II you are forbid
den sea air the hills at the back Of the town offer
Won an atmosphcrc straight from the mountains.
Hard things are said Of the Mediterranean by the
faculty, and the mistral Is described To you In
terms which convince you that II sweeps off the
population in an afternoon. Again say. never
mind The sea IS OF a blue which makes the sky
look pale and the air Is champagne admit mat
the brands and vintagcs of the champagne vary IN
goodness. but just as there are people II whom
champagne is champagne. 80 there are r''pl" I"
whom sea air is SEA air-exhilarating. intoxicat-
ing, and nowhere in any halfsouthcrn latitude
more 50 than on this broken coast where each
indentation OF rock has climate ~ It's own,
and where half an hours drive changes for You
the face Of the heavens and the condition
Of your own eouL II Nice viii not d.
It is but IL step - Nillefranch", where
the medical pess!mist has T. admit that tho
rnistriI cannot reach. Hcnulicu rs a stones throw
beyond, more Italian than either. and n as a
member Of the church IN good and regular stand
Ing you feel bound to pass Monte carlo By. YOU
will presently be- at Mentonc or AZ The newly
discovered cap Martin whore the pr"H"nc"
OF Emperors ana EmprcHsca ana Mr. Gladstone
forbids YOU 10 suppose that everything f. nlt ilf
the best
Tint other Empress. fof1 IonclnsncldH I'm.
prosa.-thc newest Empress ~ all and therefor"
| mipposc. according ~ the uow'u ii"nH. the
best. has been the bcnofactfoaH - the Riviera
,hia season. and especially ~ Nic". The hotel
which rhc occupies ~ cimioz is loss than half an
hours drive from the Jnrdin Public and perhaps
meyer before has tina, DIT ~ road been worn hy
the feet ana the wheels - go many roynlly-lov-
ing piierims II might be- rochriatcncd 1T. and
not the stretch along the SEA westward from ~"
Casino has been this spring the real Prom'nad"
dcs Angials Others than English have helped
swell this procession. Like good American !
drove one day 20 Cmcz though not expecting
10 see the Queen. Opposite the gateway ~ IN"
Hotel on either side OF which French sentry
was on duty, ! came suddenly upon about ~
numerous company as collects ~ an afternoon
in Pail Mall. over against the KAT" ~ MARI
borough House. where the Princess ~ Wales Is
expected to drive. Here. however, carriages ana
cabs-mostly the neat victorias which ply for
hire I'm the streets OF Nice-wcrc drawn up on
each side Of the road looking into the gardens Of
the hotel. Policemen kept the roadway clear
Most Of the carriage people had got out and
were perchcd on walls or on the high bank To the
left or on chairs which the cnterprising Nlcois
had brought out to let;-or wherever the view 81
emerging Majesty was best
AT the angle Of the road which divides opposite
the entrance loungcd a company Of French In
fantry: in line but standing at ease: their gilt
epauletted captain on the alert for the signal
which was to announce the coming Of the Queen
|
a smart regiment Of better physique and better
set-up than the ordinary infantry soldier n little
slouching in their attitude, but that probably
from the loose hanging ovcrfull red trousers. n
costume in which no troops can help looking
little Oriental The long and heavy looking
rifles were well kept; buttons also ana ac-
coutrements generally but ill-made boots and
garments no closer I'm cut than II the tailor OF
,bo,, had hncn a civilian
All at once. an English groom in non-royal Nv
ery-the Queen Is here as Countess Of Balmoral
and not as Queen-with n cockadc. rides out Of the
gate on an English grey. sharp word Of COM
mand and the company pulls itself together; the
lire Strengthens and stffens. arms are shoullercd,
then presented. the troops stand motiOnless, the
swords Of the officers at the salute. and the Two
buglers on the right play up shrill and clear
might be heard half a mile in this thin air. The
Queen appcars, in q low open carriage drawn by