New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-02-24
THE NODES OF SPRING.
WHAT Is TO BE WORN IN PARIS.
SLEEVES WILL BE NO sMAILER-No MORE
sTIFFENING IN sKIRTs-THE SILKS AND
WooLs WHICH WILL BE WORN.

STlFFENlNG IN SklRTS-TliE SILKS AND
WooI.s WHICH WILL BE WORN.
Paris February s.
1t early yet TO speak OF spring frocks with
the ground covered with and the thermometer
lower than 1t has been all winter in Paris; bu' al
though the balls and receptions Is in full
swing. the manufacturers have their spring anu
summer goods ready for the market. and the lead-
ing cou,urieres are showing the latest modes IN hgh
silks and crepons. The changes in style ,hat e"'
ac;erize the spring models. although shsh'' arc
marked and they are. | think. in the drec''o" oi
beauty Sleeves show no signs OF diminntion' III
fact from shoulder TO elbow they are 'dise' VIA"
they were In the autumn.
A popuar fancy which will be dainty ana usetu
for elaborate summer frocks Is 10 build the emo"
sleevo of two or three lace RULES win hoops anu
ends of ribbon between them. Another pretty ided
f. TO have the full top of the sleeve covered by
deep lace founce. and. over the lace. Cascades OF
rihhon Lace which has been thrown rat! - into
the background during the past season. vii, De a
prominent feature of the new frocks. and VIII g.
tirely supersede the perforated cloths ana elaborate
embroide res that have been conspicuous. In
deed as yet | have seen little trimming. except
lace and ribbon. used the spring frocks.
Some fitted bodices seen. md most OF the
waists show a distinct waist line but the French
blouse remains popular ard the surpice waist enect
being largely used. skirts in all cases. fit closely
over the hips and although they reach a width OF
eight yards ABOUT the mem. theN con-
tain stiffening On the whole, the costumes
for the spring will show decidedly less boufant
effect Less trimming will be used. Indeed. the
new goods. both in silks and woods. are 50 beautiu
and rich in color and so elaborate in design thai
they utterly forbid much enumeration
Chene taretas. ir printed designs are the
principal silk ,sed. These in various
patterns. showing exquisite color effects, and
are moderate in price. MORE. which ragged
last autumn, is little seen, and no India or
surah silks are shown by the leading
houses. Taifeta silks in Japanese and Persian
designs are novel. and combine smartiy with plain
woods Many spring toiettes will combine silk and
wool They Will probably prove an agreeable
change after the all silk all velvet gowns that
have been the proper thing this winter. In colors
all shades of red are seen. and prune promises 20
be a favorte. ! have no auberSlne-the iash-
ionable autumn color-but there are several new
shades just off the magenta. great zeal OF rose
is used. especially in the woods. which all show SOFT
delicate tnts The becoming lavender shade OF
cornlower blue has become a standard color. ana
pnkish shades of mauve and lavender are popular.
The pompadour silks with dainty punches OF
roses are still seen; and the latest designs nave
lines of tiny vloleis between the flowers.
charming evening to!let,e-which VII be worn
at the first official ball given under the new regime
at the Elyse6. this month-has skirt and elbow
sleeves built OF this silk. The corsaGc j. OF violet
velvet with deep founce OF exquisite point he
Venise almost covering it, The lace edges pui'ing
Of pale pink chiffon about the decolietage contrary
to the French custom OF wearing artihclaI ho"'rS-
which certainly come in the most natural shades
and ieytures-bunches OF real violets VIII separate
the puffs of chiffon. and large bunch VIII be
carried in the hand This gown ia 70 be worn by
q girl OF about twenty and points the remarks
of the French journals this winter concerning
the present elaborate attire OF the jeune ME
We are accustomed to seeing American ana Ehg"Sh
girls clad like Solomon's lilies. and now the French
dansel has followed IN line. dlscardins IN her
turn the sacred white muslin and sky-bue sash.
gown intended for the same occasion wa" OF
white satin. made In the simplest manner the "nH
trimming being a nounce Of white lace spr.nk1ei
with tiny diamonds set in silver. The work was
so exquisitely done hat the silver seemed 10 be
woven into the mcshes Of the lace.
But TO return TO spring frocks Many chcnr silks
are seen with moss patterns printed on them \
model. in which Il pink pattern Is shown on green
and brown chcnt ground, j. made aiier very ne"
and original mode. The sk!r' IS cni WIN many
seams and fits snuely over the hips although r'ach-
ng a width % over eight yards AT the hem Each
scam IS outlined with green satin ribbon. ending AZ
the hem with the stylish broad bow. com
posed OF two ends and Two loops lying hai aEaln''
the skirt. The bodice is Laid in three puhs, WIN
cascades OF lace and ribbon loops failing over
and separating the puts. The iull emo" Si''N's
carry out the same idea. and the chokcr and sash
smart bow
gown OF brown wool with pinhoad do's OF
red in IT has a very novel skirt. j. H. cut with thfe"
rine box plaits in front These paits are s'iichel
down for a distance Of ten twciv" lncncs b"lo"
the waist nne In the back. the run Is arranged
in a triple box plat with round tube lold on "d'il
side The bodice IS arranged IN box pIhi7 WIZ
Insertions Of ccru lace between ana the SANE .i'i
is carried out In the tops Of the u sleeves u" Der
and choker are Of rcscda green ribbon "hl'h GIVE
en- artistic color touch to the simple costume.
one of the seasons novelties il an exquisite "o'i
showing "A double tissue. II II cameo crepe IN
mi comes I'm All colors. The pattern particularly
admired had for its foundation loosely woven "po'
in dull green with a surface OF pink WOOL crepe re
Green threads forming Irregular designs on M
mink gown built Of this wa maze over p'Hh
SIX giving charming rose tfeci 10 ue Mnp.'
costume 'che skirt perfectly pam anu S'ni',
~ are most of the new models. Inc waist Wa s"i
wth a surplice effect and from the right shoulder
~ iinder the left arm was trimmed WIN an az
co,dian-nla tied rtfie Of pink moussclne &c sole;
The sleeves were very elaborate lhey WeIs ~.
arnon velvet TO the elbows and fitted tghtly anoVe
Vas a complicated drapery OF me "0uL WI" 1919 p'"
chirfon rules following the lines OF the drapeiy,
Ann,her novel wool has SILK lace hguf"s "o.'h Oh
,hc surface A very dainty gown mas pIdch -
1au,r.s uoven on the ground. me sleeve con,
eis,s NJ three ruffies OF ecru lace VII" az
Ss % Hack satin ribbon between them inc blouse
ts, bae soft front made Of jabots o ecru i"cr
nd black ribbon: choker ana net ,S'0 mooi
hiack ribbon Crepon i the pfihcipa, W." w..
,,eed in the new frocks and II comes III NJ ~, ca,Io
useu II, 49,, VI I, MANY new shades. gown OF cade'
terns adu has guipure lace stripe woven IN u;
p.u , ~ pone, EFFECTIVELY made, with n blouse p
oinnre lace caught at the waist Hh1 ~ PrcL rod
hv hunches of ribbon loops OF a Gun fn p' nd hayo
~. ,onc IF the sleeves are very lull '1n
cascades OF ribbon loops running 10 inc e