The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-12-01
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Copvright.


the rival claims of a much more impor-
tant person. Trilby. of course, was only
blanchiseuse. while her rival was a
great queen who, even though she was
born under an unlucky star, is entitled to
more consideration in questions Of taste
than one who, at the very hight of her
popularity, was no more than a singing
woman.
Poor Marie Antonette lost her head for
starting extravagant styles for which the
French public objected to paying, and
what a waste it would be TO become
martyr to a fashion that dies out in
few years to give place to an ugly com
mon sense shoe, for instance!
Besides. Trilbys fine figure and
the foot that went with it may have been
all right for the posing that she did so
well: but when it comes to dancing, who
would care to trip the light fantastic in
anything like a pair Of discarded army
slippers.
a year ago there was slight tendency
to make the large foot fashionable, and
the sensible people began to cheer up
and congratulate themselves that reform
was here. But now there hopes are dash
ed and their kettle literally kicked over
by so small and dainty an object as the
high-heeled French dancing slipper. And
the heel is not merely high, it has that
deadly slope toward the middle of the sole
which gives physicians such a lucrative
business.
All the new slippers are made after this
pattern, and it will be impossible for the
common sense girl to have any other
style unless she has her last well as
her shoe made to order There are plenty
of slippers that are made to order, but
they are pretty likely to be made on the
regular French last in spite of protests.
The slippers that are ordered in this way
are made to match the gown with which
thew are to be worn. 1t takes about half
a ward of silk brocade TO make pair.
After the shoe is decided upon, the stock
| ing is ordered to match, and this may cost
anywhere from "a to $25 according to its
The shoe dealer tells you that you can
| wear a black shoe and stocking with any
| kind of gown, provided the shoe be pat
| ent leather. These are so deliberately
| gotten up that they are certainly well
| suited to evening wear They have the
| trimmings of brilliants and cut steel,
| which invade every adjunct of the toilet.
| Some have cut steel straps across the
| ankle but most of them have buckles OF
brillants or steel as ornaments to the
Gowns which appear at evening parties
| have the quaint old fashioned look that
| reminds one of colonial Thanksgiving
| and Revolutionary cotillion parties. The
! long shoulder continues in FAVOR, Wheth-
/ err the neck be cut high or low. The
sleeve without connection with its shout
/ der strap has not gone out of fashion, and
ii is still quite a favorite with the
Sleeves are heavily trimmed with jet
/ or ieweled trimming, and while 1t was
! formerly sufficient to get enough for a
! anne AutocTat now looks inqulrngly at
/ YOU and sayS-"And your SleeVeSE how
/ are YOU going to trim them? As If 1t
\ were not bad enough to buy six yards of
| material for them without loading them
down with jewels.
med with jeweled pendants. The trim
ming is put on the sleeves in an oval pat
tern, with the fringe of pendants dangling
| woke that knots in front is trimmed with
Jewels radiating from the knot and pend
ants form a sort of basque to the close
Another gown which shows the popu-
laritv of the shoulderless sleeve is made
Of a pale gold-colored silk brocaded in
pale blue. The corsage is cut very low,
and is bordered with a. blue and gold gal
loon trimming which also forms the Shout
The empire gown. which is never a gem
eral favorite but is always becoming to
some, is now worn in heavy materials
like velvet for instance. The popularity
If this style of gown was hurt by its imi-
tation in cheap materials which hung
limp and ungraceful, very unlike the re
u
beautiful Josephine.
A blue velvet evening dress trimmed
with old point shows to great advantage
very low, back and 'front.' fits tight ex-
cept at the back where the long train is
fastened with a knot of ribbon to the
| low corsage. Epaulets of old point are
fastened at the shoulders and fall fan
like over the large sleeves. The woman
| who wore this gown had her hair loosely
knotted at the nape Of her neck. with a
wreath of flowers around it. The hair was
parted from the tip of the forehead to
the coil, and there wasn't trace of bang
Gloves are white or else match one of
the many tints in the material.
| A silk skirt that saw to-day had blue
green, cream, and pink, all beautifully
blended together. There were immense
green and pink maple leaves on cream
natures own taste in the matter of tints
but that's art of course!
| Some Of the long velvet opera cloaks are
| enough to set one dreaming of duchesses
and princesses and all the other people
who started us on this road to financial
ruin. There are long blue ones with GOLD
applique trimmings and brocaded silk
Innings. These are quite regal and will
probably be called Marlborough cloaks
to remind us of our American duchess.
| But ordinary people cannot afford 10
do any more than dream of. or at most
gaze upon such splendor They must be
hide their faces, as If the wearers We're
ashamed to be seen in so short a cloak
| The key note of these neck rufus is vel
vet, but the less IL shows the more beau
tiful the ruff. One of gray velvet has a
chinchilla edge and is nearly covered with
satin bow at the back of the neck.
Black mousselne de sole, accordion
pleated, is a favorite material for them
1 II must be massed in the front and back
as much as possible and trimmed with
loops Of wide ribbon that stand out over
the shoulders, and up against the back
hair.
Such a neck run with a flower bonnet
| Is faVorite theater costume for damsels
that grace the parquet
Others set limit 10 the view Of those
and ends Of ribbon from shoulder fn
/ shoulder, with one under the chin which
threatens TO obstruct the vision OF The
| wearer. Fortunately, however. most al
| these "obstructionists" prefer TO sit In
the boxes where they become Ornaments
| ana aadltlons 10 the general spectacular
| erect which Is aimed al nowadays on
most Stages Alice Amorys