The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-07-21


Her veil is of the finest Chantilly lace,
which was especially woven by the women
of Bayeaux at the right hand corner of
which are represented the feur de lys of
France and the cross of Savoy beaded with
the crown. All lovers of lace have mani
tested interest in this real work of art.
The Maison Worth must feel quite sighted,
as not only did the Princess order her
wedding dress from the Maison Fromert,
but several others also.
have mentioned the long cloaks which
will be greatly in vogue, so description of
one of the most beautiful lately ordered
will be of interest, as it also figured in the
Princess trousseau. 1t is cut after the
long princess redingote style, with full
sleeves, medieval cuffs and wing epaulettes.
1t is of rich white velvet, and lined with
duchess satin-Medici collar with stole
ends in sable fur.
The formation of the societies of
Colonial Danes of America, and the
Daughters of Cincinnati, has given quite
an impetus to the engravers' business, as
crests and coats of arms now adorn not
only the family silver, as in days gone by,
but also large quantities of letter paper are
being stamped with heraldic devices. The
fashion reached here some time ago, and
as result not few of our blue-b looded
DANES use their seals and point with pride
more than 200 years ago.
The most comfortable way to dress, as
far as underwear is concerned, is to have
union suits of silk; besides it is more
healthy than any other, so at least most
physicians declare, and stout women find
them indispensable, as they do away with
bands and do not wrinkle uncomfortably
around the waist. 1t has been matter of
no small surprise to me to see how readily
some women will spend on outside cloth
ing, and how they grudge money for ex-
pensive underwear, although l do not
admit that silk union suits come under the
head of extravagances, as l consider that
they save many doctors bill. Wool and
silk or wool and Isle thread, are also ex-
cellent.
Lately one of our hostesses here, who is
always striving after original and artistic
effects for her table, decided to give dim
ner to some Eastern friends and use only
California peoples for decoration. AT
o'clock the table was harmonious dream,
but when at $50 madam tripped in to
give a last glance at everything, what was
her CONSERVATION at finding her peoples
looking like little yellow sticks. as they
had all rolled up, or, as the children say,
gone to sleep"
At present but few bonnets are being
worn, even our middle-aged matrons show
an inclination to wear the large hat over
which many ostrich feathers nod. One OF
the latest hats | have seen is black chip,
with eight black feathers on the crown,
while on the back are rosettes of black and
white sik-edged chiffon. The silk edged
chiffon in colors, as well as in black and
white, is being used on many hats. Ro-
settles of shot silk are also popular. the silk
being first accordion pleated, then gath
cred up into choux.
White wells are far from becoming to
some compilations, and although they look
cool are Just as warm as black ones, and it
has at last been decided that the veil which
has white mesh and black spot upon
it is worthy of the best attention, for while
it gives the air of GOODNESS, it by no means
exercises a bad influence upon the COM
plexion. To my mind the real lace wells
have nothing to recommend them, being
hideously nnbecoming,. and the best OF all
among white veilings is one OF Russian
net, with delightfully."- soft texture and a
very fine design.
| have lust heard a little secret about
how to make white wells more becoming,
so here it is: Line such wells with very
diaphanous pink gauze, being careful to
choose flesh and not blush or mauvish
pink, and you will have the appearance of
possessing, if you own it not already, de-
lightfully youthful complexion. How fire.
quently | speak of well hung or perfectly
hung skirts, but how seldom do we see,
paratively speaking, just such skirts.
Well, if you want to see number of skirts
which merit these adjectives go to the
Baldwin during this week and you will see
them, if you have not already. | am in
formed positively that the gowns worn in
the "Amazons" are quite as excellent as
those TO be seen in "Rebellious Susan"
Isabel Irving understands her own style
and coloring perfectly, for not once as
Susan did she wear an unbecoming gown,
in fact one and all were so charming that
l will describe few for the benefit of
those who are out of town. In the first
scene her skirt was OF soft grayish shade,
absolutely plain, without a particle of APP
parent stiffness. The bodice was trimmed
with an odd pinkish salmon silk covered
with cut Jet, which made chic bloused
effect, and her odd Frenchy collar of lace
cut in deep points had the cutest sable
tails at the ends.
In the next act she wears a light silk
skirt, such as we should all possess, as it is
just the proper tint to harmonic with the
mousseline de sole and silk waist so greatly
in vogue With it she combined the daintf-
est of waists of the new shade of cerise
pink, over which was fulled lace with
small figure, while velvet of the cerise
shade encircled her waist and tied in just
the right place in a sprlghtly bow. Her
sleeves were to the elbow.
On her next appearance / wish you all
could have seen the gown; the skirt of rich,
fawn-colored silk. the bodice had beautiful
sleeves of new blush green velvet, while
the slightly bloused front of velvet was
adorned with perfectly lovely cut jewels of
a blush green tone. Her dinner dress was
very fetching with its brocaded skirt and
delicious waist, with Just the right touch
of pink. The little choux nesting at the
armholes are like those which / have de-
scribed. In the first act her cape of black
lace, with the points of Irish lace jeweled.
was awfully stylish, and the long cloak of
brocaded ,rose-pink satin and. the large
feel the pangs of envy. Madame
would have held up her hands and MUIR
INJURED, sit is GEM; and it is just one of
the most lovely cloaks seen here for snme