The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-10-27


We are still commenting on the lovely
gowns and wraps worn at the recent Grace
Church wedding. One cape worn by a
debutante illustrated the charms of black
velvet and ermine, and many were the
picture hats to be seen, and for the most
part they were worn by extremely pretty
girls. Nearly all were of black velvet, re-
heved with just touch of color. cerise and
shades of green being in high favor, but
green is TO be the most fashionable color
this winter for this purpose. Hats of the
most beautiful velyets take a front rank,
but in Paris exquisiteIy fine felts are much
seen, and l was delighted with one shown
here at q leading milliner's of such a felt
as l have described. 1t is q black picture
hat with a Marie Antoinette puff of green
velvet around the crown; at one side is
handsome buckle of cut jet at the other
some exceptionally fine black feathers. 1
greatly longed for this chapeau, but not
being much over five feet IN height de-
cided to leave il. That hat still haunts
me, as l cannot find one TO rival it in my
affection.
I am awfully tired of crepons, but must
confess that | should like one | saw few
days ago. 1t was of rich silky brown
made over silk. The skirt was plain and
perfectly hung, the waist of handsome
black silk covered completely with fine
Irish point, the sleeves were of the same
material as the skirt, with deep cuffs of the
lace over Black, the effect was truly excel
lent, and half a dozen unique buttons of
cut Jet added the finishing touches. With
this gown were worn gloves reaching the
elbow OF exactly the same white as the lace
and a dainty Paris hat, one that must be
seen to be appreciated.
Laferriere has sent to this country some
delightfully."- pretty costumes of crepon.
One has design in ZigZag stripes Of thin
black in puffs three or four inches wide on
a ground OF dark green, the whole is elaoo-
rateiy trimmed with Persian lamb fur,
which is used to form bretelles, epaulets, q
short basque, a stock collar and even a
great bow at the back of the collar. The
bodice-lke belt is of an unusual shade of
green velvet with white lace applique.
Most brides own braided cloth gowns.
They are OF smooth cloth. The braid is
in close arabesque designs. Brown with
black braid IS a favorite combination.
Plain tailor-made gowns for winter wear
are of home5puns and Donegals, with IN
stiffened skirts, and single breasted coats
with fat backs except for one godet fold
on each side Of the flap, like a double
breasted coat.
a dainty girl of 10 who lives on "the
hill" wears frequently to school tweed
dress; blue, with threads of green and red.
1t is made with yoke of plaid taffeta silk,
which CONT lnes cream, blue ana green.
The sleeves have deep, close fitting cuffs of
the silk reaching 10 the elbow, where they
meet the large puff of tweed. The yoke is
outlined with narrow band of mink,
which also encircles the arm holes and
wrists. a green felt hat with brown and
creamy white wings emphasizes the beauty
OF very chic toilette quite good enough
for any occasion, excepting a party or a
little dance. On such occasions young
girls are very pretty in frocks of lowered
taffetas, made with low, full waists to
wear with high guimpe pf nainsook and
Nalenciennes.
Long cloaks or partly fitted ones are to
be worn by girls of from 3 to u. They
reach beyond the skirt and completely con-
ceal the frock. All the waist and the up
per part of the sleeves are, covered by full
cape which reaches the elbows. The front
is straight and may be double or single
breasted. These cloaks are made of boucle
cloths, smooth, heavy cloths or velvets and
are either trimmed with fur or stitched in
rows and finished with cord. Handsome
buttons for such cloaks are made of DARK
brown tortoise shell.
We may count on the seams of skirts
being trimmed as well as the bottoms and
for full dress lace founces will be in vogue
Some black silks will have a coIored silk
facing on the outside of the skirt and this
will be covered with black lace or Jet pas
sementerie. The skirt Innings must be of
the same silk, as owing to the fullness they
are much seen.