The representative. [volume] (St. Paul, Minn.) 1893-1901, 1895-09-18
FOR WOMEN.
SOMETHING ABOUT THE FASH
IONS FOR FALL IN DRESSES
AND BONNETS.

lively congenial, so that no time shall be
lost, no thought nor epigram go unappre-
ciated, and so that general discussion
may follow the nightly reading.
Last winter these little clubs, made up
entirely of neighborhood coteries, enjoyed
quite quiet vogue, making no pretense
toward the dignity of many of the larger
and more advertised women's clubs; but
at the same time there was great deal
OF hard work accomplished, much gen.
.uine literary study done and a result
gained that was felt by many teachers in
the public schools, along the line OF gen
eral information and literary specialize
ing. A few of these little gatherings,
earnestly conducted, soon form perma-
nent basis for more enlarged effort and
advanced procedure. At any rate, fam
lily or neighborhood reading clubs are
potent agents toward developing taste
| for good English, fine literature and STAN
dard authors.
The home that encourages them seldom
shelters the 14-year devotee of the
penny dreadful" and good plays, i'm
proved morals and refined society will be
among the things most sought after by
the boys and girls enjoying the luxury Of
the home reading circle.
1t is not always most profitable for the
attention to be given entirely TO one
author; but the best of every writer only
should be chosen, since they will afford
ample comparison of his good points and
failings. A broader culture is procurable
from a wider selection; beginning always
with the works that are near the level or
the average of intelligence in the class.
One might begin on the fiction of Mary
Jane Holmes and still work up to an ap-
probation of Homer, although the
chances are rather against it. But the
short story is good thing to begin on !;
especially when we find such short story
artists as Mary E. Wilkins, the Davises,
De Maupassant and several others both
her and abroad. Begin, indeed, as one
may, it is difficult to make winter read
ing circle other than profitable and enjoy
able.
THE NEW FALL STYLES.
The new fall styles are putting them
selves tentatively forth, and much havoc
they are creating among the women Of
fashion. The changes are radical and
are not generally regarded with favor.
1t seems little hard that the fashion
authorities should have taken this par
ticular time, when woman is so deeply
impressed with her own Importance, to
fall and winter wear show the boucle
pearance in public less imposing. And
yet this is just what has happened. The
edict comes from abroad that sleeves have
diminished more than half in size. Close
fitting sleeves without the suggestion of a
puff or stiffened lining, are to be the
vogue. Crinoline is already a thing of
the past. Skirts require the same guam
tity of material but heir folds show ten
dency to droop demurely. The fact is
that the up-to-date woman dressed ac-
cording to the coming winters fashions
will occupy no more space when she
walks abroad than the average man. To
say the least, this is disappointing Louis
XVI. styles are high in favor and the
coat of this period will be seen with all
sorts of gowns. Much lace and many i'm
itation jewels will also be the vogue.
There is no one thing, however, which
will help to reconcile the women of to-
day to the fall fashions and that is the
materials of which the costumes will be
made. Crepon stin holds the place of
honor. For fall wear it comes in many
new weaves and exquisite designs. The
best crepons average in price from $2.25
to 1928 yard, and this year they are
all woven with a strong facing which
prevents their stretching. The most
fashionable show silk ridges on a wool
background.
All the most fashionable fabrics for
effect Rough materials are-everywhere.
The cheviots, whose popularity is peren-
NAL, are seen in loose weaves and some
what coarse effects. Brown and sage
green and brown and black are favor
ite combinations of color. The checked
cheviots make durable gowns and are
much the vogue. They are made up
severely plain and trimmed with large
buttons.
Many of the imported mohairs show a
boucle effect and are warranted to wear
for more than one season. Among the
smooth cloths English suiting and la
dies cloth are considered the most fash
ionable. Velvet will be much used as a
trimming and also for evening gowns
Striped silks will also be the vogue for
early fall wear, and jeweled galloons
and much lace are the trimmings most in
favor
Though it is rumored that the small
sleeve will be the only correct one to
wear this fall, yet there is a goodly
company Of women who will refuse to
submit to the sudden change. They will
still cling to the puff, but it will be a
uTOOpluS dudlT, mdQo entirely WITHOUT
stiffening. All the fashionable sleeves
droop well off the shoulder, and many
of them fit the arm closely fora few
inches below the shoulder, and then sud-
denly expand into a puff. This is the
latest sleeve for evening gowns. Fash
ionable tailOr-made frocks will be made
with a mi-close-fitting coat sleeve.
The very latest skirt is cut circular
and falls in box-plait effect. 1t may
measure anywhere from five to eight
yards around. There is no suggestion
of any stiffening used in theslining. When
silk is too expensive for this purpose a
good percaline may be used.
Some of the new collars are exception
ally dainty and pretty. One is turn
back affair, tying in front with a neat
satin bow, the ends Of which reach in
series of loops to the waist line and
| then encircle the waist, forming an eff
fective belt. All kinds and descriptions
of fchus are the vogue, as we'll as sailor
collars.
Duringthe winter they will be made
of velvet in place Of the chiffon and Val