The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-05-05
WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York. May 1.-The spring poets
have nearly all lived in the sunny south.
or in some balmy cline where thaws were
not g necessary preliminary to vernal-
loveliness. No northern bard ever has the
temerity to sing the praises OF the chilly
March and April of his own cherries
cline. Courage fails him when he at
tempts to. gush over a season in which
he goes shivering about i'm furs Even the
most famous avoid the subject and ven
ture no further than to comment on the
rareness of a day in June" or some
such safe time of year when the season
is well advanced and the ice has gone out
of the babbling brooks.
People who take practical view Of
the question have no time to lament their
loss from a poetic standpoint. but turn
their minds to the more serious question
of a compromise between their ideas of
what spring ought to be and what its
pneumonia-laden breezes make advisable
in matters of dress. Spring is not so cold
as winter. but It is not June either. How
ever, the greatest trouble with It Is that
1t isn't always the same thing. This makes
it necessary to wear a style of dress that
can quickly be changed for something else.
The best way to solve the difficulty Is TO
have a light wrap. either cape or jacket,
but in this year of giant sleeves a cape is
the best. Evidently all the women have
arrived at the same conclusion, for never
was there such deluge of these garments
as we are being visited with now.
Most of the capes are short and some
are so near being no eapes at all that
they suggest some magic potion of other
like the stuff Alice drank in that won
ANnnHaFlQnd w
near vanishing into nothing at all. They
are nothing more than collars. but they
are collars of such fullness as was never
seen on coat or cape, and they stand out
in godets and ripples, and assume as
much Importance as real grown-up wraps.
1t is amazing how much trimming can be
crowded upon these diminutive creations
II there isn't room for hounce they are
trimmed with a full ruche that winds
and twists about as If it were trying 20
find room TO stand on. one pretty black
silk model was trimmed with this KIM
of a ruche, made of black mouselne de
sole. The ruche started to go around
the neck, but changed Its course from the
shoulders and ran to a point down the
front.
Capes are made Of every material that
is fashionable, from guaze to mohair and
broadcloth. The gauze capes are ac-
Gordon pleated and generally have a silk
foundation. A very pretty one was made
black null over pink silk, with lace
ruche at the neck.
Among its many uses crepon numbers
the cape, and flares and fiutters around
the shoulders In about the same way
that II flares around the feet when made
into skirts. A tiny wrap of black chiffon
Grape showed green, silk from beneath
1t was the crepon with the satiny stripe
and thin mesh and was finished at the
neck with a chiffon ruche. Another wrap,
which was nothing more than a piece
of removable trimming, had folds of silk
running to a point at the waist in inc
back, where 1t was fastened. This was
ad1 nfffh
ored lace, laid over black velvet In front
the cape hung in two square stoles on
each side of the front. These stoles were
of jet pendants.
The ordinary wraps are made of silk
or satin, with no fullness at the neck
down-or, perhaps, it would be more
correct to say out, as the sleeves usu-
ally prevents the miniature cape-skfrts
from dropping. These are not trimmed
but are considered sufficiently orna-
mental with their own pleats
small ruche of some kind is the sole dec
GRAFTON. / have seen such capes made Of
MORE poplin, plain black silk, black sat
in and MORE silk. Any of these materials
may be made plain II only they are full
enough, and the ordinary short wrap re-
qures only about one square yard Of ma
terial. Two yards of silk is more than
enough, since 1t only takes about a width
and half. This economy is material
added to the fact that IL Is the sIunleat
ders the wrap question a comparatively
simple matter.
The more elaborate capes are trimmed
with fiounces of lace and pleated chiffon,
and wreaths and punches of flowers
One very fancy one, intended for the sum
mer garden or the seaside BALLROOM has
fiounces of the widest and finest duchess
lace over brocaded silk. One OF the blond
est of blondes viii wear this wrap.
Another, of heavy black silk has
fiounces of black embroidered chiffon rum
ming to a nOint in front Etaf
so many varieties that one might 20 on
describing FOREVER and not include them
all. 1t is safe to say that there are tust
as many styles as there are freaks az
fancy, provided the freaks run in the line
of frills and pleats.
However, the spring wraps are not all.
capes There are some people who in
sist that such wraps are not becoming
and will never give up their Jackets
The new jackets are neither tan or black
The tans are either covert cloth or broad
cloth, and are, of course, short The
most common style is after the REFER
pattern. Some of those that button on
the side have no corresponding row of
buttons on the other. A tan covert jack
ct that buttoned quite close to the neck
had small pointed revers and was trim
med with straps of the material stitched
on each side, which curved and sloped up
ward in front But the novelty about the
coat was the tiny curved pocket which
was set in the TOP of each sleeve, de-
vice which gave rise to several playful
remarks about carrying ones heart in IT,
or using. it as aid in certain unmention-
An exquisite creamy tan coat Of broad
cloth was made double breasted and but
toned with large pearl buttons, beautifully
carved The sleeves were the most attra-
tive feature about 1t. They~were made
of curved strips Of cloth stitched one up
on the other and edged With tiny Valen-
with lace, as was also the silk bow which
was knotted at the neck