The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-04

s. : 49,
cobwebby things of sheerest cambria with
the finest French embroidery in one OF our
largest stores, but the prices asked found
moderate.
Fashion, that capricious goddess, has
taken long step backward, and the stiff
angular lines of the first empire are no
longer correct, nor are the trying tights OF
the Directoire, as Paris decreed at her last
fetes that muslins over their delicate silks,
gigot sleeves and skirts contrasting in color
are to be shortly things of the past, for
"les grand danes" presented beautiful
and sumptuous spectacle, some OF them
wearing their hair powdered, which pro-
duced a lovely effect under large hats OF
white or black lace. These hats only are
now 1.-The thing" for such occasions, and
are truly beautiful one being composed OF
Valenciennes lace, white ostrich feathers,
aigrettes a la Marie Antoinette, clasps OF
pearls and diamonds, and exquisite roses.
Such a chapeau requires the touch OF an
artists hand, otherwise the effect VIII be
heavy and unbecoming. Only real lace OF
fine quality can be used. So the rage for
lace continues coaxing out OF cedar and
sandalwood caskets and even Iewel-cases
their hidden stores.
At one of the fetes I allude to, the Mar
quise of Etempes wore round tulle Valen-
ciennes lace fichu fifteen centimeters long,
along which were dancing a row OF shep-
herds and shepherdesses hand in hand.
This marvellous lace was the property or
Madame du Barry, having been especially
designed for her. The buttons on the Mar
quise's gown worn with the tichu were
superb being old miniatures mounted IN
gold and small brilliants.
Our ambition must now be directed
toward looking as much as possible like
the beautiful old portraits of the bellies OF
the time OF Louis XVI. Naturally the
marabouts, the old wavy feathers of our
grandmothers, are expected back again.
Speaking of the fetes reminds me that
the charity fete at Belvedere was pretty
affair, and brought in many a dollar
toward the erection of the contemplated
little Union Church. The girls looked
bewitching in light gowns and great shade
hats gay with flowers. They were, most
OF them, in spotless white duck gowns
with pretty frilIy little vests, and touch
of color was given to the toilettes by the
pink, blue and buff ribbons which were
worn as stocks, but most agreed that the
wife of one of our prominent dentists had
on the sweetest gown of all 1t was of
white dotted Swiss with satin ribbon of
pale yellow.
There are now on the market eccentric
little headgears that cannot be called hats
or bonnets, being made of double row of
tuIle or chiffon, pleating around an in
visible shape about the size of the palm of
medlum-sized woman's hand, and hidden
with large bow of colored satin, red,
blue, yellow or white. These are for even
ing wear.
The boating hat has reappeared with a
wide brim, and it is more trimmed than
formerly with wings and loops OF ribbon.
The very latest style in sailors is low
crown, little over an inch in height and
the brim is wider in front than i'll the
back, a great convenience for those who
wear wells.
The princess gowns are steadily gaining
ground, several very handsome gowns hav-
ing been designed by the most famous
houses in Paris. One very beautiful one
is of pale gray brocaded crepe. The bro
cade shows long-stemmed pale pink roses,
buds and leaves in exquisite shading. The
front is of rosy satin covered with gray silk
net, on which glisten here and there Sc
quins, which repeat the tones seen in the
DTOCduGs
very handsome buttons on each side of the
waist in front of rock crystals mounted in
old silver settings. With it are worn gray
kid ties and rose silk stockings, the whole
effect being excellent.
There are some new diamond side combs
to be had mounted on tortoise shell with
very large teeth, highly desirable in
comb, inducing it to set properly into the
xvI ia6 70 gn IA
But we are told not to let our hair cover
even the tips of our ears, unless they are
SO large as to be unsightly.
Sets or set Of diamond buttons copied
from old designs are owned by many So
ciety leaders. They are beautiful and
have the merit of being useful.
An attractive gown seen at Del Monte
was of white serge, the coat cut away on
the hips in the front, with full basque
round the back. The tiniest of gold but
tons were sewn on each side and the
square-cut collar was very new. The
full sleeves were finely tucked from elbow
to waist. Sailor hat, veil, gloves, ties and
parasol were all white, and the girl was
regular summer beauty of the brunette
type.
A dozen times at least have heard that
the cousins OF one OF our generals were the
most exquisitly gowned girls recently at
Del Monte, but then they impart an air to
even the simplest garment, and those who
saw them will be as much impressed as /
am with the charms of white alpaca skirts.
l detest the black, it always has such an
ordinary look, but the fine white, for which
81 per yard is reasonable, makes most
suitable skirts not only for constant use at
summer resorts, but also for theater wear,
every light shade of silk waist harmonic
ing and then there are no wrinkles to
have pressed out the next day, wrinkles
making no impression or, this fabric.
However much 1 dislike the black
mohair l must describe a gown of it
which is said TO be most chic. The full
gored skirt over lavender taffeta has
around the bottom shirrings of lavender
taffeta silk. The well-ftted waist has
stock and bows of the silk. The large
puff of the sleeves is of mohair, which
reaches the elbow, where it meets the law
ender silk, which extends to the wrist.
White satin or kid slippers and white
gloves are cleaned by rubbing them with
a piece of cotton wool dipped in ether, and
then by brushing them with a very soft
beaver brush dipped in pulverized Spanish
whiting.