The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-18


is not easy to make the simple little sum-
mer gowns interesting. Fortunately, how
ever, l have had more than peep at a few
truly charming toilets, which Will De
seen during the latter part OF this month
at Del Monte, and some good dresses were
= donned for the hop there last week. Inc
=. tall, fair millionairess whose home Is IN
the Western Addition looked unusually
handsome, but then she is always radiant
in the evening, having trunks full OF lovely
toilets, for unadorned beauty does not
;.'appeal to me nor to any one else fancy
excepting in the case of very young chill
:dren-all being improved by a compre-
:-hension of what is most suitable and most
= becoming.
=: One Del Monte dinner gown l greatly
fancy has a skirt of striped black and
white silk cut on the bias, godeted. with
~stiffening onlyaround the bottom extend
:: ing up about eight inches. The lining Is
of white glace and the low square-cut
bodice is OF white silk, yelled with closely
pleated. black chiffon, the neck being I'M
.1Shed. with rare old lace with a beading OF
let cut to represent small pansies. The
waist is <encircled with, a girdle-like effect
.of iet. :Af the left side.of the corsage is
: gracefully arranged large bunch of Cali
:fernia: y56lets, and they also appear to hold
in '1,lace the.chiffon which covers the large
.eIb6w-SleeYes of white silk. This gown
Was:designed and made by one of our best
:1nodisteS.. Another, of pale green satin, has
>: a full and: single skirt, with bow of pale
.yeloW satin in front Of the hem.
=. The. bodice is of the satin beautifully en-
,broidered: with sequins, which change
: from. palest green to light yellow, puff
OF yellow chiffon edges the neck and the
sleeves e.:of the SAME fabric but of the
: newest style, called the double puff" the
" larger atthe top. l presume that later we
=. Will see. many such sleeves. Very beauti-
"ful buttercups were artistically trained
!. from the. front of the waist to the left
shoulder, where they terminated IN a small
bunch: :. Ga the right shoulder were up
Standing loops of paIe-green satin. Half a
dozen of the flowers with their leaves are
to: be worm among the owners lustrous
:: coils Of hair.
=: :. How curiously we are awaiting fashion S
.edicts for the fall. They will reach US next
month, and cannot readily believe that we
will have to say farewell to our dear, huge,
frilly, puffy. sleeves. Still, if the rage for
Marie Antoinette fashions continues we
certainly can make waist and sleeves out
of a pair of our present ones. l hope for
the best, which l consider means slight
modification of present styles; and oh, l
do hope the long shoulder seam will not
q be imperative, as only tall, slender women
look well with their bodices so cut.
"A few days ago l heard some young girls
commenting on white alpaca and mohair
skirts and deploring the fact that they
:: soiled so rapidly around the bottom. Now
let me enlighten you girls. Your skirts
should be very wide, silk lined, much
: -godeted and only have slightly stiff inter
lining. Now your skirts may meet all
these requirements and yet they Will be
destitute of style and.so will all skirts of
white wool unless they just escape the
:: ground all around and are OF perfectly
even length.
- One very lovely young maiden who lives
way out on Jackson street is taking a
trunkful of: the sweetest CONNECTIONS in
muslin and. lace ever put together, and
even: those much opposed to such SIM
plicity, would, if allowed to inspect these
gowns become converts to their unusual
charms.
A word of advice to, you girls. When
you see at the summer sales short lengths
of organdies, secure them if in becoming
shades. They will make Just the sort of
gowns you want for the evening at home
ana lowered skirt is very lovely with a
waist matching the ground of the skirt.
. Secure sufficient for skirt and sleeves when
possible.
The white silk crepons l mentioned in
my last paper are preferred when loosely
:. woven by strong silk threads rather than
when crinkled in the usual crepon fashion,
and one advantage about them is that
they can be made over cotton taffeta with
almost asnice effect as over silk. Young
girls are. especially fond of these gowns
and wear them cut out, rounded slightly
low at the top in:what Is called the Dutch
neck, and, finished there with gathered
tucks. This waist is completed with white
ribbon drawn -squarely across the bust and
back and passes over the shoulders with
high knots ofloops standing there.
. Recently when many young people were
at Santa Cruz a slender brunette of about
Is was conspicuous for her dainty simple
gowns, two.of which [ will describe. One
was of the cotton stuff known as "Vichy
CLOTH in pale shade of lavender barred
with black lines. The skirt was full and
plain with deep hem; the bodice slightly
bloused in front. and held in place by a
black ribbon belt and silver buckle. The
stock was of white lawn and lawn was
also inserted as two sharp VS. back and
front, giving Just the requisite touch"
Worn with this was large white rice
straw hat with bows of lavender ribbon
and two small choux of black satin.
The second gown of creamy white can
vas was absolutely plain, but evidently the
work of one of our best tailors, so
exquisitely delicate did the little
vest and jaunty jacket fit. The jacket
had roll collar which is remark
ably difficult to cut properly. Three
lines of stitching ran around the well-hung
skirt. A correct sailor hat and chamoise
gloves completed this toilet, noticeable
principally for its excellent cut.
From Newport comes the news that Miss
Fair is now playing golf with much enthu-
siasm, and is considered one of The best
players there. She usually wears white
duck costume, with leggins of the same
material, and large straw hat with mar
row band of white satin ribbon. A white
satin belt and large gold buckle completes
her.costume, and in 1T Miss Birdie is said
to look exceedingly well. Miss Sands
is usually seen, when golfng, in a suit of
yellow duck, with heavy golf stockings
and black belt and silver buckle and a