The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-01-27
A VISIT TO OLD NAPLES.
QUEER SIGHTS AND SCENES WIT.
MESSED IN TIE HISTORIC CITY,
The Campagna-GaIlant King Humbert.
The Bay OF Napies-An Italian Fare
weiI-Lsfe in the Hotel

farewell to Rome and began our Journey
to Naples, on one OF those Ielsurelv Italian
express trains which stop at ever, sta.
ton. For many miles our route Law
across the "Campagna," whicn-at ali
times desOlate enOugh-was drearv in
deed under the aspect OF stormy skies
However, the ride was somewhat on
ifvened By the presence In our cornnart.
ment of a young Italian couple on tbeir
honeymoon. They were not embarrassed
by our preJc1ce, and the brides parting
with masculine friend who came IN
the station to see her off was gushing
10 say tee least. ] wondered mat t6e
young husband was not Jealous. until
saw MN clasp the friend to his bosom
ana KISS MIN half dozen times In re-
sounding succession.
oar party were all visiblv affected nv
TINS touching spectacle, particularly the
younger members. long before We reach
ed cur destination the young couple were
wrapped in peaceful slumber. an angelic
smile upon their countenances, like the
Babes in the Wood" sublimely uncon-
scous Of all surroundings.
The Campagna is literally bris;ling with
ruins OF various kinds The gaunt arches
OF the old aqueducts that once qucnched
Caesars thirst extend for miles across
the plain still the chief water supply Of
Rome Immense hOcks Of sheep. the to-
tai number estimated at about $1,000. are
pastured here. and here and there may be
seen the dminutive straw huts Of the
shepherds. King Humbert who Is an
expert horseman, used often TO gallop
alone over the Campagna on a
spirited gray charger, and for years
untl the rumor got around. the shepherds
used 10 wonder who the simply-clad, kind
ly man was who came TO talk with them
and share their supper Of goats milk
always slipping a gold piece into their
j lnds as he rode away. This Is only one OF
the many stories that are told of the gal
liant King and his good queen Marguerite.
Soon our train reaches the great marsh
districts. inhabited by fierce wolves and
bufalos. There is an old tradition that
travellers, when passing through this
part OF the plain should not fall asleep.
lest they should be afflicted with malaria
Further on we passed through that part
OF the plain known as the "Campana"
(from when the fleet "Cunarder" takes
her name). most fertile bit of country,
where the soil is so rich as to be capa-
bic OF yielding two crops OF grain and one
of hay in the same season. besides the
produce of vines and fruit-treeS. NO
foundation here for the question, Does
farming pay"
The thing that possessed the greatest in
terest for us on arriving at Naples was
dinner, which. coming at the extreme end
Of a long journey, certainly satisfied
long-felt want. so far as | was con-
cerned. Our hotel was delightfully."- sit
rated. overlooking the older portion OF the
| town, ana commanding a superb view OF
tle sapphire Mediterranean, with the pen
| Insula of Sorrento and the tiny isle or
| Capri. On our left lowered the mighty
Nesuvius, its smoking summit lost in the
clouds and Pompeii lying unearthed at
its feet. It would be difficult to imagine
|
ma by night. the bay of Naples cleaning
like silver in the moonlight. Several
times, as / sat watching Nesuvius. / saw
flames shoot forth from the crater. while
electrical disturbances were taking place
in the clouds above, and the column of
sUlphurOus Yapor rising from the craters
| edge. glowed lurid red, forming beauti-
| full contrast to the snow-capped summit.
| This was rather an unusual spectacle, for
NeSuvius, while an 'inveterate smoker,
is seldom in more active eruption.
The town Of Naples is built upon three
levels. The lower. along the sea front,
contains most of the older portion of the
| town ana many OF the finest hotels. But
| the narrow, chilly Side-streCts, where the
| sun scarcely ever penetrates, reekinS with
| decayed vegetable matter and the s1ualid
| tenement houses, teeming with humanity,
are not conducive TO health, and travel
| lers have. very wisely, come TO regard
this part of the town rather In the light
| OF curiosity than as desirable place OF
4 abode
The second level contains some Of the
| newer hotels. and the third, upon the very
top Of the ledge, is known as the rom
| Nero" and is connected with the lower
| levels by a cog-Wheel railroad.
| one OF the customs peculiar TO Naples
| is that Of driving COWS and goats through
the streets both morning and evening, and
| milking them on the spot. whenever q
| customer is found. The principal shop
| ping streets, thronged with customers,
| many OF whom are English and Ameri-
| cans, remind one of bustling American
| city. Neapolitan gloves are famous, and
| tourists hasten TO take advantage or the
| low prices and lay in an ample supply to
| last them for the remainder OF their liVes
each one hoping that the custom-house
| officer will be tired out before he gets TO
| their trunks. Ladies' gloves may be had
| for two lire-less than forty cents, taking
| into account the deprecated currency OF
| Itaiy-and the best quality mems gloves
| for fifty cents.
| Probably the most interesting sight OF
| Naples is the museum tMuse0 Na2ionale}.
| The large collection of antiquities which II
| contains were taken chiefly from Pom
| peii, Hercuaneum and Stabial. There
are frescoes and mosaics, two thousand
| latln inscriptions on Siplf shlst biC'i'-N
| tablets. and a collection of Egyptian an
| tieuities. Among the most celebrated OF
! the SCULPTURES are the Farnese Hercules
and the Farnese Bull. The collection OF
| bronzes, most of which came from Her
| cuIaneum, is the finest in the world.
| But most interesting of all are the Pom
! peiian relics-loaves of bread and cake,
| and even eggs, hard-boiled In the fre Of
| Nesuvius. There is a roomful of manu-
| script, and the charred rolls nave peeh
| most ingeniously unroled and the text
| deciphered. The jewels are superb, and
| the detail work about these. especially the
| cut canoes, would make Tiffany turn
! green with envy. Then there are bronze
| and copper kitchen utensils by the thou
| sand. furniture, etc, etc, quite equal TO
| ours.
Naples is the seat Of most famous
| marine aquarium. which is delightfully."-
| situated i'm the beautiful grounds OF the
| villa Nazionale, fronting on the beach.
| The numerous and beautiful species OF
fish. the wonderful plant life OF the
Mediterranean. and many other hidden
| treasures of the deep, are here disclosed.
| In connection with the aquarium is large
| institution for the study of marine b.
ology. in charge of Dr. Dohrn, the cele-
brated German naturalist. and corps
of some thirty naturalists ant assist