The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-09-15

a pretty dance was given September s at
a beautiful Jackson street home, to over
eighty young people. Several of our de-
outantes were present, charming maidens,
most OF whom were gowned in white mus
IN or tulle over white glace taffeta. The
most Frenchy combination was a gown
combining the two shades now so fashion
aoIe-olue and mauve-a most difficult
task well and artistically accomplished.
II L am not mistaken, we are going to
nave gay season, so many rumors OF COM
Ing festivities are already in the air, es-
peclalIy for the younger set. 1t is many
years since as many fashionable weddings
have occurred so early.
The wedding announced for the 18th of
next month will be a brilliant one. The
brlde-elect is an unusually pretty and
amlable young girl, who dresses beauti-
fully.
The recent Vanderbilt ball at Marble
Hous outshone any similar function ever
known in Newport The favors positively
did cost $4,000, and were made to order es-
pecially for this occasion in Paris, and
consisted of silk and satin sachet bags;
long, wide ribbon sashes, hand painted;
crystal hand-glasses, large oars with blades
of solid silver, books and bagpipes, such as
are played by peasants in France.
Mrs. Vanderbilt wore a chic gown of
pale green satin trimmed with white satin
and rare old white Spanish lace. This
creation was designed for her by Worth.
With it she wore her famous necklace of
large pearls, which is said to be one of the
most valuable in the world. Miss Con-
l. : L,
cut square in the neck, with very bouffant
sleeves. Old point lace adorned it. Dur
ing the evening two suppers were served
one at midnight for those desiring to retire
early, and the second, with exactly the
same menu, at 8 A. NJ. Richard T. Wilson
Jr. and Miss Consuelo led the cotillon.
Mrs. Potter Palmer has been making
herself popular at Bar Harbor, her enter
tainments having been delightful, and her
informal Friday morning sat homes are
described as having served as gathering
places for the whole social CLAN" At the
last large reception Mrs. Potter was unusu-
ally handsome in a superb toilette of rose
pink brocade.
Now that yachts and boats are the most
correct things to discuss reminds me that
Lady Clifford has Just passed with first
honors the examination for a master
to serve as master of any ship on the high
seas Her purpose is to serve as captain
OF her own yacht.
Miss Marion Sarah Parker of Detroit is
the first woman to graduate from the
university department of engineering.
She has taken special studies in architec-
ture, and intends to practice the profess
sion in one of our Western States.
-
Stout women are receiving with enthu.
siasm the Louis XVI racket, it being
especially becoming to them. and unusu-
ally useful, as with it various skirts can be
worn. Such a garment of a handsome
brocade with multicolored taffeta ground
figured design IN velvet with collar of
slender revers, hip flaps and deep cuffs of
mossgreep velvet having vest of white |
satin, is very handsome.
Apropos OF figures, it is announced in
Paris that the changes in fashion will
shortly be great, as French women are
altering the feminine figure by adopting
short corsets, like riding ones, which give
an appearance of extra fullness to the bust.
1t is much the fashion at present for
women who mbroider well to spend much
time adjoining pieces of satin for sleeves or
shirt panels with sequins or paillettes. One
clever woman has embroidered front for
one of her winter gowns and several mar
row strips which are for the bodice. She
used pale green satin and had a most
artistic pattern stamped on 1t. She used
iridescent palllettes.
1t is an established fact that the tight
fitting bodice is once again in favor and
the latest skirt falls in double boxplait
in the back.
We are all to still wear white gloves with
our dark costumes, and most somber hats
are to be the rage during the coming
month.
English women are prone to be most crit
ical concerning their American cousins
manners, style and morals. So imagine
my surprise at reading in the Cosmopoli-
tan an article by J. Howe Adams relative
to the English woman's bathing costume.
l give an extract. He says: "As women,
as rule, wear their clothes much tighter
than men, and as the materials are much
fiimsier than those used in French and
American suits, the effect upon the locker
on who is a stranger to English bathing
is often startling. In addition, these suits
are cut, as a rule, quite low in the neck,
frequently being as low as decollete ball
gown, necessitatlng considerable care on
the part of the wearers to keep them from
being washed away by the waves, while
the trouser leg is cut short frequently not
reaching to the knee, occasionally edged
with white lace, while, of course, no stock
ings are worn"
Naturally his remarks were commented
on in England. One magazine confesses
that the bathing costumes worn there are
extraordinary, and adds that no doubt the
dress of both sexes when bathing is regu-
lated by the idea that there are no lockers
on of the opposite sex, but we know very
well that this is an idea and nothing more.
Such a pretty woman just back from
across the pond tells me that the loose
coat, known as the Empire shape, will be
very popular later on. Hers is very swell,
reaching just below the hips. She also
stated that there is good ground for the
rumor that cashmere is to be revived, but
the new varieties now on view in Paris are
Of very superior quality and are extreme
ly fine and close.
Black and white gowns are many of
them extremely genreux and most fash
ionabIe. One of our September brides has
a black and white silk dress with bodice
of white chiffon, with black lace applique
all over it and large white chiffon sleeves.
'tGenreux" is the latest Partisan express
sion and promises to, in a great measure,
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