Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-09-22


spects TO Eastern broiling.
Mrs. Oelrich's recipe for broiling lob
ster is: Split a live lobster and place
it, split side uppermost, upon a large
broiler Place over moderately hot
fire of coal or wood for ten minutes, or
a shorter time if the shell turns red.
Do not turn the rooster over or you lose
the fat-the best part Of the lobster.
A female makes more delicious eating
than a male on account of the roe"
The Oelrich's Newport kitchen has
an annex to the kitchen proper. II Is
in light wood. furnished with all things
for preparing a luncheon. There is
small range. a charcoal broiler, chests
of drawers containing all household
supplies. -four. sugar, etc, and a small
ice-box. with butter, eggs and cream
Here the home mistress works buslly
for half an hour when nice, dainty
luncheon is wanted by her athletic nus
band and herself.
Mrs. Van Rensselaer, Cruger, who is
the most accomplished woman that
ever ruled a social set, boasts the cul-
mary art as one Of her show acquire
ments. She makes a study of cookery
and excels. not in the ordinary dishes
of the household, but in those borrowed
from all ages and all countries. Her
recipe book is u mixture of French por-
ridges. German breads, Italian salads,
Russian drinks and English meats.
She knows the origin Of each dish and
understands, not only its history, but
how to cook and serve 1t. This knowl-
edge she learned largely while travel
ing abroad. and which she studied hard
TO acquire so as TO place 1t IN her nc
ton when needed.
Mrs. Cruger is far too busy a woman
to devote much time to her cooking,
but at her summer home a. Oyster Bay
she has q luncheon room where she de-
lights her friends at MONDAY with
dishes done I'D to the taste OF all.
Evenings she brews many fragrant
not of saVories. and TO be visitor TO
her home is TO know not only the most
exquisite hospitality, but also the per
sonal attention of the hostess, who
studies how to surprise and delight the
guests. off,
In Mrs. Cruger's luncheon kitchen
there stands a tall Greek brazier, and
over this she stands and stirs many
smoking dish of summer delight. one
of her favorites is a lettuce salad, wilt
ed in the old world style, and served
with a smoking wine sauce. All her
cooking utensils are of the brightest
ware. and many are procured specially
for her by guests who have enjoyed her
bospitality. II is said that Paul Bour-
get. who became Mrs. Cruger's guest TO
study the American woman" changed
from an amused spectator to an earnest
admirer of the home type represented
by this follower of literature at home.
Miss Helen Gould. no one will be sur
prised TO know, is a cook of more than
the average ability. Her cookery
takes the line of invalids' and chill
dren's dishes. This idea became a pet
one of Miss Gould's some years ago,
when her mother was i'll. BY an in
valid's freak. she could eat nothing eX-
cent that prepared by her daughter,
and Miss Helen spent much OF her time
in the kitchen. where, through the WIN
dows of their summer cottage at Sara
toqa she could be seen, covered with a
calico aDron. working busily and indus
rriousIv over the hottest OF old-Iash-
toned stoves. -,
Later. when her father, too, lay Ill
Miss Gould cooked for him all sorts OF
fanciful invalid's dishes And AFTER De
had left her forever. she turned her at
tention TO the little cripples OF woody
crest. making a study Of the best things
for them 10 eat. Personally she IN
structed the cooks. Much OF her
knowledge was gained in the cooking
class of which she was a member near
" every winter for the past I'VE years
and more she learned in training
school for nurses, where she was allow
ed to come and 60
The very old-fashioned ladies were
taught cooking in their youth as wo-
manly accomplishment as useful as the
needle. But then there came genera
ton that painted instead Of cooking.
Now there are cooks again among Wo-
men of the highest degree, and Il the
trick of making good things Tor the
fable becomes a fad no one will be-
grudge the new woman her knicker-
lockers and little independent ways.
CONSTANCE MERRIFIELD.