St. Paul daily globe., 1895-11-17


but queerly shaped Eton made of
that woolen goods which is known by.
the name Of horses ribs-that is, dull
gray ground with surface covered
with hairs an inch long. This had two
/ enormous smoked pearl buttons on
each side the Eton, which hung open,
the silk forming sort of blouse vest.
Tea gowns are unusually beautiful
this season, though they have the bot
tom of the skirts wider than an artist
would like to see. Still they are made
graceful by the addition of ribbons,
laces and dropping draperies. 1 saw
pale blue silk plush gown, cut en- prin-
cesse, the front open over full panel
and vest of white silk muslin over blue
silk. There was beautiful filigree or
nament in shape of half-moon that
took the place of a girdle. The large
bishop sleeves were of the blue silk
covered with white null, with fall of
lace at the wrist below a draped band
of the silk. The skirt was very long
in the back and was cut with very
ample but not stiff folds. 1t was fin
ished at the neck with a full gauffered
white silk null collarette.
1t has been said for a long time that
the favorites of this season, and now
we find it almost everywhere. 1t is
certainly in evidence, but is not likely
to crowd other shapes out, particular
ly when the others are more becoming.
Those of perfect figure may wear the
princess, and others will keep the
draperies that hide many little def
ciencies and shortcomings. A really
beautiful princess gown made this week
was of garnet and black brocaded silk.
The left side was slightly lifted and
draped to show a plain panel at the
bottom of faille a couple of shades
lighter and bordered with a delicate
scroll pattern in gold thread. Down the
left side seam was a very narrow band
OF garnet astrakhan trimming. On the
waist were three narrow insets of white
lace oversewed with gold thread. The
collar consisted Of draped stock of
old gold satin. A small bow of the
same colored ribbon was placed on the
left side at the opening. The front
closed invisibly.
For young lady of a less perfect
figure there was a very pretty gown of
fancy novelty wool in gray and with
brown figures in blocks of three The
skirt was laid in box plaits all the way
around. The waist was draped across
in a blouse fashion and held by little
stars made of Persian embroidery on
white cloth. There were a pretty little
rounded collar at the neck and a
pointed one lying flat, and they, as well
as the belt and two half moon shaped
bands upon the sleeves to hold them
i'm Nf
with Persian embroidery in green and
gold. The half moon arrangement on
the sleeves produced a very good effect.
While there are very few waists
made of different material from the
skirts to good dresses the waists are
trimmed in a very elaborate style, for
the most part. The combinations of
colors are truly artistic. There was
reception gown made of myrtle green
faille, with a full circular skirt. Down
each side of the front breadth there
were revers of velvet one shade darker.
These were cut out in shallow scallops
and bound with a millinerS fold of
satin, and in each point there was set
a small button. There was a fold
around the bottom of the dre So. The
waist was what gave the distinguished
beauty to the gown. 1t was short and
round and had a plain stiff belt, which.
buttoned at the left side. Every edge
and part where it was possible to put
the fold there was one. There was a
square neck, with folds and a simu
lated plastron, and across the shoul-
ders were set these green bone but
tons. The open space was filled in with
old rose faille. The sleeves were very
elaborate, consisting of what one
might term revers. These were of the
green, and all were bound, and each
had one button. They fastened to the
sleeve. The upper part was of old rose
faille and the rest of the green.
Another evening dress for a young
lady had a full godet plated skirt.
The material was of figured taffeta
shading from maize to brown and with
brown dots at regular intervals.
Around the bottom were two bands of
golden brown velvet ribbon. The waist
was snug and round and had draped
velvet belt and also little stock col
lar and bands around the sleeves.
Across the shoulders there was white
null Marie Antionette fichu, edged
with handsome lace. Two straps of
velvet were drawn across the shoulders
and fastened in a manner to leave
tiny diamond point. The whole gown
is a symphony in yellow.
A dainty waist to a half low evening
dress is of shell pink velutina. The
skirt is plain, the waist a plain, round
one with a golden brown belt. The
sleeves are elbow puffs, without trim
| ming, save for four rows of taffeta OF
the same shade, the material doubled
and laid in plaits on the shoulders.
Around the neck there is a square ar
rangement of double edged lace, with
stiff net back and few fancy jet beads
sewed on to accentuate the pattern.
From the lower edges of this is jet
fringe.
One of the most pleasing outdoor.
waists was a short basque OF snuH
brown cloth, tailor made. There was
satin, and this trimmed with narrow
black soutache braid. The cuffs We're
notched in the same style and hnlshed
in the same way. The skirt 70 the
edge bordesed by soutache braid. The
BASQUE opened over a vest OF chestnut
brown velvet, and this in turn opened
over an inner vest of black SILK with
braiding. The collar was Oh the pralu-
ed silk.
In woolen dress goods have not seen
one single thing this week except the
rough camel's hair serges, in brown,
red, green and dark blue. This makes
a serge that is soft as well as twilled.'
The English tweed diagonals are very
handsome. and being put forward, as
they are in SO many new colorings and
combinations of color, they almost
take the place of new goods. There are.
some very high grade novelties in silk
and wool. and wool for ,bo body e and ,th the
vale woven stuff where the under vale
is of wool and the upper is of silk, and,
these are generally in two shades of.
one color. -,7i
| masdentette, pretty lacelike pattern,
failIe jardiniere with exquisite flowers,
Peking pompadour. with its dainty de-
| signs: Marie Antoinette, with the deli
cate little rocco designs: rich Scotch
piaids and few stripes. The splendid
brocades with immense, figures: with
giints and CLEANS of gold. or with high
raised velvet flowers, and the superb
cheney silk are all to be be seen. each in
J;na efrines ara shown in eveniney