The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-04-07

the fair wearer will be encircled with
chiffon collar which develops into frill
on either side of the box plat and disap-
pears into the belt at the waist. The
sleeves of this gown show novelty, being
very full and caught up with brown satin
ribbons, while the back of the bodice is
held In place by very broad sash of the
brown, which falls with long ends to the
hem.
The mother of one of the prettiest of our
debutantes has just received gown of
Lyons black satin, which has the front of
the skirt and side panels traced with Jet
and green sequins; the bodice has a sort of
butterfly drapery in the front, also en-
broidered with the sequins, at the neck is
folded crayat of water-green silk covered
with black net embroidered with Jet and
sequins; the full sleeves are also made of
the water-green silk covered with the en-
broidered net.
A dress greatly admire comes from the
dressmaking establishment of well known
New York firm. 1t is of one of the new
chine silks in pale pink, with small de-
sign upon it of leaves and flowers outlined
with black. The skirt is very full and has
plaits III the front, each showing a center
panel of embroidery formed of silver and
pink beads. The bodice is a blouse of
white satin embroidered in silver, pink
and Jet, and has yoke piece and center
vest of accordion-kilted pink chiffon, while
the white satin collar band is again en-
broidered with the beads; the belt is of
black velvet and the sleeves are large and
full, made of the white satin with deep
bands of the embroidery. This blouse can
be worn with many different skirts, and is
exquisitely tasteful in design.
A French modiste here now has a very
chic imported gown of pale green crepon,
adorned with dark green velvet embroid-
cred with cut steel. The bodice is one of
the newest in cut and finish, in fact every
fold of the skirt, which is the only one Of
its kind have seen, announces that it is
direct from Paris.
A shot silk in dahlia tone and brown
with brown lozenge pattern upon it is
, interesting because the back of the skirt
Shows a distinct novelty in the way it is
set, falling from three narrow pipings
about four inches below the waist, these
pipings again appearing at the shoulder
seam, while the bodice is covered with a
tracing by gold and brown beads in stripes,
between which appears brown chiffon,
lined with the dahlia color tea gown
of China silk with monstrous lawn and
embroidery collar falling into pleats to
disappear at the waist is an inexpensive
and lovely garment.
Tea jackets are so much worn also that
| was sorely tempted to purchase one of
pedfl-l1utu Sabln, DrOcaQeQ with PINK
roses, with tabled basque and bodice
of pink, soft silk yelled with lace.
A friend of mine has had a handsome
black-velvet gown of hers remodeled with
much taste, as the sleeves are now of
handsome Pompadour silk. The ground
! is of pinkish shs&S, and it is covered
with large, dark pink roses. The silk APP
pears az the front of the skirt, making a
very fashionable dinner gown out of one
which was quite out of date.
Several new silks are being shown.
Among them are the new chimes with in
finitesimal patterns, just the thing for
blouses with the dainty laces or embroid-
cries, and very pretty goffered China silk
is on the Eastern counters and will be here
shortly, presume. 1t is to be found in
great varieties of colors, but is more at
tractive in blue and white and red and
white.
Cloths with plain surfaces are wonder
fully popular this season, sharing favor
with the Venetian cloths which appear in
delightful colorings. Some grays and
greens are especially pretty, also | admire
the blues and vivid browns. A new plain
cloth, too, has an infnitesimal twill on its
surface, and some of the very light chevi-
OTIS, taking almost biscuit tone, or a gray
that merges into white, boast here inter
woven checked Innings of singularlv har-
monious tones. The very light gray, for
instance, appears lined with check, show