The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-11-17
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York, Nov. 16.-Beauty and sweet
ness Of temper We're once the greatest
! charms which the most ambitious women
! could wish for These were her stock in
| trade, and with them she sailed for,h to
! conquer the most unsusceptble of the
| male sex.
That was all very well for the Maud
! Mullers and Cinderellas who found it so
! easy to win lords ana princes for hus-
| bands. But nova days It takes a girl who
is 'swell 20 marry q man with a handle
to his name and young men who are not
dukes and never hope to be anything but
plain, ordinary misters, or honorables, at
most, judge the woman whom they adj
mire by the same criterion, passing by
the pretty girl whose get up" is tame
for that of the palmer damsel with
stunning frock.
There are three principal things which
the connoisseur of fashion takes note of
in determining whether a costume is up
to date or not. namely, the hat, the
wrap and the hang of the skirt If these
are correct the wearer passes muster and
may be admitted into the ranks of the
superheially wen dressed without further
! examination.
Of hats is width. 1t is the fault of that
Insignificant bit of headgear known as
the Napoleonic hat that it is So and the
broad-faced feminines who bemoan their
fate for having to increase their lowell
ness with the addition of a broad hat
may trace their Affections along with
| those of many real sufferers back to the
great emperor himself.
The French seem to have an aversion
! for the organs of hearing. Ears with
! them are vulgar. and should be conceal
| ed. Anybody can see this by a glance at
/ French fancies in coiTures. Not a single
French beauty but manages in one way
or another to cover up her hearing APP
paratus with her hair. If she cannot
cover the whole ear she fastens a lock
or so over the upper tip as if she were
afraid it might lean out too far i'm the
effort to hear and make itself conspic-
uous.
Hats Of the present season serve a
| similar purpose. They. are made wide
over the ears with plenty Of feathers
| and tips peeping over the edge and nest
| ling down over the hair so as either to
| completely obscure those afore mention
| Cd ob1ectonable FEATURES or TO so put
| them in the background that the observ-
| er forgets they are there
One of the daintest evening bonnets 1
! have seen had a feather tip Gaping each
ear. 1t wasn't any particular shape-a
| sort of cross between a Napoleon and a
! Tam O. Shanter. The crown was white
| velvet spangled all over with gold sequins
| The brim was formed of wired lace in a
rose pattern. one little white feather
| stood straight up at one side Of the crown
| and facing toward the frOnt-it makes a
! great deal of difference which way
! feather faces by the way. There We're
! three white tips under the brim, one
| curling around and concealing each ear,
and the third falling over the knot Of
/ hair at the back.
made Of nasturtium velvet. The velvet
was laid in folds across the front, being
caught on each side the face with orna-
ments, beyond which it extended still
| further in double loops. A black aigrette
/ was set on the side of the front to give
! the hight necessary to counterbalance so
! much breadth.
! Speaking of aigrettes, they are an abso-
| lutte necessity in an evening hat, and the
/ fashionable girl does not content herself
/ with the plumage of one winged lover,
| but clumps them together in punches as
| ruthlessly as she does the scalps (meta-
| phorically speaking) of her own fond ad-
/ mirers. Aigrettes are really the only
dainty trimming in the market which will
add hight without involving heaViness to
/ the bonnet. They are dyed all colors of
/ the rainbow. one astonishing combna-
| ton was bright green and bright blue.
| The lower part of the aigrette was green
/ and the ends blue, and the whole was
! used 20 adorn a hat made of green and
] brown Dresden silk
The tendency in evening headgear is
/ toward hats rather than bOnnets-nOt
| very large hats as yet: but a forerunner
/ of what is to come later, perhaps. new
/ shade of pink velvet, combined with lace,
/ is a fayorite for such hats. A pink vel
/ vet hat with a fan of black chiffon en-
brOidered in white, fastened with a steel
! ornament, and a bunch Of black aigrettes
/ wrapped in funnel shaped piece of chif-
/ fon, such was the headgear Of a brilliant
! brunette in box at-wen, no matter
where, for 1t is The bonnet we are talking
Evening dresses grow more and more
1 gorgeous in the matter of materials. No
plain silk, or even chiffon, is admissible
/ for evening wear, unless it is yelled with
something else. A plain pink silk waist
/ was covered with white Swiss, bodice,
/ sleeves and all-and II was very pretty,
I but it would have been what the French
\ call Impossible" if it had not been for
The silks are all heavily fgured-Dres-
den being the favorite. Dresden silk varies
| ia price from 81 to S. per yard. An ex-
! quisite piece with a green ground had
\ rose pattern in rainbow red tints so beau
tifully woven that young bride, whose
| fond spouse "shOpped" with her, cheer
! fully paid s. q yard for it.
Many of the Dresden silks have black
| grounds, which makes them adaptable to
/ both yound and old. There are black silks
/ with royal blue single-rose patterns-a
/ little anomalous as to color, but that Is
nothing when beauty and not realism is
The figured chiffons are Ike a mirage
| of all this gorgeous-hued stuff. Their
| patterns are somewhat similar to those
| Of Dresden silk, but being so fine they
| look like shadows on a mist and when
| one makes sleeves Of them-ah, mel but
/ it takes yards.
/ A gown which combined the two was
/ made even more gorgeous by the addition
/ of a brilliant cloak. The cloak was made
/ of striped Dresden and lined with plain
| silk. The collar faced with velvet to
/ match the lining, was edged with tiny
/ white ostrich tips. The gown was made
/ of plain silk with a Dresden panel in the
| front of the skirt and bands of the same
/ 10 outline the low corsage. The sleeves
| were made of figured chiffon with a long
/ knot OF ribbon hanging from the Shout
I der. The straps which extend from the
/ skirt up to the bodice, are Ornamented
with fancy buttons.
a pretty demi-evening toilette has a
broad satin collar turned low at the neck
/ and edged with wide lace The sleeves
| are short, reaching only to the elbows.
| Evening waists are not quite 50 popu-
/ lar as formerly, but a few are exhibited
| in the shops. They are made of chiffon
/ and lace with ribbon trimmings, or of
| Dresden silk and passementerie.
/ Jeweled trimming is al its hight. It is
used for everything, but especially for
| evening gowns.
/ In short. what with our velvets and
u