The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-18

buttons VIII Inquire conSplcuously next
season.
One of our bellies wears, with excellent
effect, at her throat large curved silver
buckle. Such, whether of steel, gold or
silver, are very swell for long-throated
women; but those with short necks look
absolutely absurd with any such arrange
ment.
Why do people with the sallowest of
compilations insist on tying or draping
around their Threats ribbons which en-.
phasiZe every yellow tinge2 If you do not
know what colors suit you it would pay to
give first-class dressmaker $25 for her
opinion as to what colors you should in
dulge IN, color being an all-important
factor.
1t is consoling for most of US the in
formation that the simplest of ornaments
are the most becoming when low-cut
waist is worn.
A novelty in dress goods is lovely green
crepon, which has large design in black
silk woven in. A gown composed of it is
the property of a fashionable woman.
The full godeted skirt, the sleeves and
basqued bodice are of the crepon, and the
vest is of green silk, with shaded trim
ming.
Yachts and yachting are still favorite
topics, and a fetching blue serge gown
worn by a sunny slender blond is charm
ing. The usual skirt is of the serge and
the round bloused bodice is beautifed with
a white vest of cloth, small high collar
and large faring sailor one of the cloth.
Pretty pointed cuffs finish the sleeves and
white yachting cap and chamois gloves
complete the costume.
A useful dress is of fine black and white
cloth, made up on the bias. 1t has neat
little collar of black satin and what is
called girdle of the same, but in reality
it is something unusual being exactly like
a corset in cut, excepting that it is short.
However, it gives the unpretentious gown
a certain air of chic. This idea carried
out in blue and white check would be
good.
Braid is beginning to appear on the bot
tom of travelling frocks, and three little
frills of lace, silk or ribbon adorn many
evening ones, but the deep lace fiounce,
caught up here and there with knots of
ribbon or half a dozen flowers, is still
popular.
A white satin yoke embroidered in jet
gives dressy appearance to the simplest
waists of gauze or chiffon. The yoke is cut
in deep points, extending far out over the
shoulder. The stock is of the satin.
Panels of accordion pleated silk,
spangled or Powered gauze are very much
in vogue for evening dresses, and a narrow
skirt can thus be utilized effectively. The
green satin skirt lately worn on the Bald
win stage was charming example of this
new mode.
Partisan women have been indulging in
rowing very generally of late, as their
leading physicians have commended it,
saying it would beautify their figures, so
there is ladies' boat club at convenient
spot on the Seine where many novel cos
tunes are INDUCED in. OF two I shall quote
the descriptions. They were worn by a
girl of Is and woman of 25: 1.-The first
was full zouave knickerbockers of fine
crimson serge, accordion pleated and gath
cred in below the knees, with a shirt of
the same shade of silk, Bolero jacket of
white serge trimmed with narrow crimson
silk braid, Tam O. Shanter hat of white
wool with a crimson knob and pompons
of the same, white silk hose and brown
leather shoes. The second consisted of
short full box pleated skirt of white drill,
jacket of the same with dark green mos
quetaire cuffs opening over vest of fine
green serge; the drawers, showing slightly
below the dress, were of green serge made
of medium fullness; moss green stockings,
a white sailor hat with dark green band
and brown morocco shoes"
At all our seaside resorts this season
women have shown a keen interest in
boats and boating, not a few having
learned to handle their SOULS in
mastery manner. and limited number
can sail boat scientifically and run
launch. Some of the best rowers are to be
found in Belvedere, two young sisters
being especially experts.
Little girls living in warm places during
the summer are made comfortable in yoke
slips of gray or brown holland linen, made
a la Mother Hubbard, with a shallow
square yoke, to which all the material is
gathered and hangs loose from the figure.
A little turned-down collar OF the linen
can be either hemmed or stitched, but en-
broidery is frequently used instead as
ruff1e around the neck. The sleeves are
mutton-leg shape, and have either cuff or
ruffies around the wrist. Dainty frocks in
this same style are made of China blue or
tlo1 usually trims them.
Girls from to II wear dresses of the
same fabrics, but the waists are usually
box pleated, with small turned down col
lar, but broad collarette of the linen,
deeply hemmed with narrow white bead
ing above the linen, is a pretty change
Others again have jacket and shirt, with
which are worn colored shirt waists
Even very small girls are arrayed in
large Powered organizes. The trimming
is cfeam-white lawn collarette of great
size, pointed out on the sleeves, and lower
still down the front and back and edged
with two narrow frills of butter lace. When
completed such frocks are fit for yeritable
fairies.
An effort is being made to introduce
dresses with short sleeves and low necks.
for chlldren's wear in the evening.
Pink is the favorite color for the little
peoples best gowns, whether of dimity.
lawn, pique or organdie, and with them
are worn hats of Neapolitan or fancy
braids, and the old familiar Leghorn hats
are seen trimmed with large, many-looped
bows of satin or taffeta ribbon and mink
roses, arbutus, or any pretty pink blossom.
Lace is more used for the children's
frocks than ever before Manv en- hro;d