The morning times., 1895-12-29
HINTS DIRECT FROM PARIS.
Dinner Gowns, Opera Cloaks and
Wraps of Latest Mode.


Paris, Dec. 21.-The new evening gown
borrow their inspiration from Marie An
| toinette and pOmpadour themes. They
do not copy these styles literally, which
| would give the reunions too much of
an air of being costume balls, but they
suggest them in detail. Thus when the
bodice is draped with a fichu this max
Marie Anto oinette gown, and when
there is n square decollete with reyers
running from the top of the shoulder
to the point OF the waist, with the skirt
full at top and gathered on the hips,
this is pompadour gown. In both
these old styles the sleeve was close al
the top and widened at the elbow, where
it ended with a ruffle; but the sleeve
actually being worn is for dinner gowns
draped to the elbow and caught into a
band with a fall of lace, and for ball
go WINS shorter and formed equally of
drapings, of overlapping ruffles, puffs,
lace and bows.
The skirt OF some gowns opens in
front over Il petticoat in the pempadour
manner, and this is particularly 10 be
remarked OF dinner gowns. In this case
there is fulness at the top, arranged
in gathers over the hips, but the front
breadth is fiat In the old style the petit
coat was sometimes OF contrasting ma
terial, but at present such contrast looks
little extreme.
Flowered silks and satins are being
very much used for these gowns. as are
also plain satins. Velvet plain and flow
cred is used for dinner gowns. The trinl-
mings are lace, artificial flowers and
ribbon bows. Whole cascades OF bows
cover the chemisette front, after the
pompadour manner, and these bows ar
ford centers for placing jewels. The skirts
are short and very wide.
Among the dinner gowns the follow
ing are good suggestive models: One of
violet faille has the skirt faced ten inches
deep with violet plush and this facing
is covered with parallel rows or narrow
gold braid that sink part way into the
plush with very rich effect. The bodice
slightly pointed in front is open from
the point up tn the shoulders, with straight
revers, over the chemisette OF the plush,
the whole forming q square decollete.
The plush revers are crossed their whole
length with lines of gold braid; ribbon
bows are ON the cbemisette and n large
bow is at the back of the neck draping
the shoulders from armhole to armhule.
Violet is being much worn.
A black faille has the front of the
skirt embroidered down each side with
garland in relief of flowers made of black
ing with a bow at the foot. The bodice
is a square balf-low decollete with revers
embroidered like the skirt. The sleeves
are of mousseline de sole, very much
draped. The gauze embroidered may be
replaced by jet or jetted lace. A velvet
of black ground flowered with rosebuds
has the skirt very full and open over a
petticoat of the same gathered on the
hips. and the bodice square decollete
,r-;tl ell ~. md
ending at the elbow with two doubled
ruffles, the upper one standing out In a
wide puff. A garniture runs around the
neck and down each side of the front.
The following ball gowns are equally
correct models: The first is of ciel blue
silk in a broche stripe flowered with rose.
The skirt has the front breadth draped
with blue mousseliDe de sole, caught here
and there with pink flowers. The pointed
bodice has low round decollete draped
with ficbu OF the mousseline kno,ted
on the front with bunch of pink flow
ers. Draped sleeves OF the silk and NOUS
seline. A white broche flowered silk has
the skirt trimmed with lace ruffle put
on in zigzag lines and headed with q
ruche Of the silk. In each angle formed
by the ZigZag. both above and below, is
placed a small rosette formed of the silk
The ruche is made by laying strip of
the silk In small box-plaits. stitched down
near each edge, and the edges are bound
with ribbon. This makes flat trimming
some four OF more inches wide. that was