Birmingham age-herald., 1895-02-17
ELLEN OSBORN TALKS
The Luncheon Hat and It's New
 Function.
Some Novel Dance Gowns-Dress at tho Opera-Mrs. Beerbohm Treo's New Gowns - Why Not a Cry
 ing Costume.
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 The first duty of woman is declared to be to look pretty. Oscar Wilde makes the declaration. He further re- marks that nobody has yet discovered woman's second duty. Which is to be rejoiced over It's Herculean task to live up to the first responsibility.
 The luncheon hat is one of the newest guides along the path of rectitude. It may not appear obvious at first blush that the luncheon hat should be recog- nized as constituting distinct and well-marked species, but reflection will establish the justice of It's claim.
 The hat in which woman of fashion lunches must be simpler than the hat she would wear at theater, concert or reception, and yet it must not be too simple for visit or even an informal ''at home." It has come to be recog- nized by tacit understanding that either the big hat, with foppy brim, or the toque will ''go" at luncheon, but the toque has the preference decidedly.
 At rather "smart" luncheon party at Sherry's the other day very slim blonde with the palest of faxen hair u and near her sat a rosy girl with a small hat made entirely of black curled feathers. The prettiest luncheon toque I have seen was a mite of thing in velvet, said to be after a Charles TX. model. It had black aigrette on one side and on the other a bunch of pur- pie and white violets. Of big hats the best wasa great brown felt "Lamballe," with rose garlands covering it and dropping from the brim.
 Ye who would give balls must haste to give them now. Ash Wednesday will be in few days. Meanwhile here is new scheme for ballroom decoration. At Mrs. Perry Tiffany's last dance from every ferny corner in the fine drawing room rose clusters of yellow tulip blooms. The fireplace was hid behind ferns and tulips, the decorations being carried above the overmantel. The al- coves formed by the deep bay win dows were fitted up as cosy cor ners cushioned in yellow. Branch ing palms and trailing fern fronds hid the musicians, and as for the guests they seemed by some happy intuition to feel what was expected of them, for a good share of those who were brunettes came out in gold and cream and yellow and fitted themselves perfectly into the tulip room.
 A yellow brocade dress was as hand some as any in evidence, and wing with it was another costume of the same period-cream satin, brocaded with gold and looped with maltese lace and violets. Pascal or Meperal, or some one of the Napoleon worshipers who have been flooding the world with me moirs, says that when Marie Louise entered France her dresses excited ad- lniration as being more graceful and less short-waisted than those of tour ladies'" I like the empire gowns my self and wish women would stop admir- ing long, stiff-boned '.figures" and be a little more comfortable and short waisted.
 For dancing froclx there's nothing prettier than pink t,ille. Wear silk skirt of rather deeper pink shade. Then let the tulle form series of skirts in ''cascade" fashion, one above another. A ruching of rose tullc goes to the bottom of the under skirt and about the waist long pink sash. The full sleeves are of tulle hounces. On the left shoulder goes bunch of snow balls and another on the bosom.
 have picked dandelion blooms every month of the past twelve. And so you can always find women who smoke, though they are not much plenticr than dandelions in February. Yet there has come to be fashion in smols- ing jackets and the smartest model is of dark blue cloth, lined with quilted pink satin. The edges are finished with pink cords and at the neck turn over collar shows the quilted lining. The sleeves are satin lined and show a little cuff of the quilting to match tho collar
 Some of Mrs. Becrbohm Tree's cos utumes arc worth talking about. One of
 most striking gowns is of lemon
 with deep magenta train and
 yet flowers and leaves bro-
 e left side. The low bodice
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