The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1895-01-27
FORM AND FABRIC.
Dress Should Speak the Language of
Color and Texture.
Philadelphia Press.

Philadelphia Press.
1.-THE Language of Fabrics and Forms"
was the title of the lecture delivered by
Mrs. Emily NJ Bishop in Drexel institute,
the text of which was, in part, as follows:
1T has been said, epigrammaticaily, that
the man or woman who wants to be IN
touch with the century must know some
thing of ali the something's there is moth
ing more popular than language. we STUDY
English from its English forms; study
French, German and Italian and lind IN
terest even in the dead languages. The
geologist studies the language of rocks and
finds written in them the history of the
world. The botanist reads the language or
flowers. There is language in all things.
There is the language of body. Every atti-
stands, the way he talks, the way he holds
his head and the way his head carries ms
natal this shows 3 his character aed dress look
ugly by the way 1t is worn, but more
than this, fabrics have a language and
talk. Some fabrics are shy and modest;
some bold, some young, some mature and
aged some kind and some cruel Here
one a dark, rich fabric, the other a pi-
aphanous white material, and continued:
do not these. two suggest different Diff
time of wearing? Yes; but you ask how
are we to know the proper time, and some
of you say it is wholly matter Or taste.
So it is matter OF taste; Inc aiae rnst zee
error than being guided by what we ike
without knowledge. There are laws gov
erning all sciences 1t is only by classif1ca-
ton and conquest that man can gain knowl-
edge. So it is of dress and of fabrics.
Since l have classified them more have
found dress more interesting and more
economical. 1t is more economical because
knowledge gives US convictions; and con-
victions courage. 1t gives us the courage
to buy fabrics even if they are out When
we know what is beautiful we do not make
50 Mrs many Bishop s% then held up piece Of rich
blue fabric with gold thread, and said:
Gould anything be more beautiful y than I.
never old-fashioned. I bought that very
cheap, because 1t was out OF Iashion, IL
dresses in winter and winter dresses in sum-
mer - - rs 90 ooa r.
black universally worn? There are several
reasons given One is that II Is more e eeon
given is that 1T makes the stout look small
Ter. This is true but It is equally true OF
and unobtrusive, negative color. Some say
| it is becoming to the complexion. 1t makes
one look fairer. but it brings out the hollow
the only dress elderly people should wear;
when age - the very time wnen we nesd
black being economical is concerned, find
nothing expensive. There Is nothing
| that shows specks and lint more than black,
and nothing that looks shabbier when
shiny. I will tell you why we wear black.
1t is because of custom; we want to be Gus
| tom makers. Howells says: Whatever is
established is sacred to those that do not
think
preston Of their own. Red is aggressive.
In its crudity it is too aggressive, but sub
dued it is beautiful and warm Put spot
| of bright red on woman and you lose sight
of her Blue is just the opposite Of red. 1t is
cold 1t divides and separates. Yellow is a
sunlight color. subdued yellow is always
beautiful and soft Colors have a signif-
canoe even among nations. There is the
red flag of anarchy. Even animals are
excited by red. We speak of blue noon
days, meaning days when everything is
cold. 1t divides and separates. Yellow is a
white and the black pirate flag designates
| death and destruction.
.sAll stuffs may be divided into those made
for warmth for design or for beauty. To
the first class belong blankets and furs.
Those made for design have spotty effects
and assertiye designs. 1t is good to let
them alone. For beauty made soft,
smooth goods and laces; such belong only
to higher civilization
| Mrs. Bishop then spoke of the difference
between mans and woman's dress, the
latter being composed of draperies, while
the former admitted of few .artitic posi-
bilities. BY the draped feminine dress she
understood particularly that modelled on
the Greek gown. She insisted upon the i'm
portance OF having the foundation lines
| firm in all draped dresses, and advised her
auditors to avoid change for the sake of
change,