The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1895-10-20
N THE ALPS.
What n Seattle Woman Saw Among
the swiss Mountains.

Z
the swiss Mountains
rhfavenna. Italy SEPT f3-So much has
been written u the beautiful scenery Of
Switzerland and the Alps that Il seems
useless 70 attempt 70 tell what has been
told 50 well and YET the half has never
vet been told" The towering Alps. ira
rresfv, green valleys, the numerous lakes.
the picturesque chalets. the rushing. rocky
winding Rhine Al. IL r vast. beautiful
r4rfura never 80 re forgotten. but 20 -
looked hack upon with greatest pleasure
one who wishes 70 enjoy quiet econorT'-
teal three months summer vacation snoui1
b. all means come 20 Switzerland or
Northern ITALY ! 60 not think there Is any
mace IN fhe whole world where one can
live so well for 50 isttie money. Tire swiss
bread is very fire. SO white and well baked;
the beautiful butter. plentiful mix ana
beer One will find always a nice room and
clean. comfortable bed for very little And
so 20 eat this wholesome Swiss fare.
breathe the delightful mountain air and
feast ones ewes on this Wild Alpine seer
cry is certainly an enjoyment
We began our tour at Bale. where on"
DAY is quite enough 70 visit the fine old
cathedral tho Muirster. q picturesque edi-
fce dating from the twelfth century, and
view the Rhine from one OF three bridges
that cross ~ 4 few hours ride took us 10
Zurich There We had the fine view or the
beautiful pale blue Lake Zurich and the
mountains. II was here that we first BE-
gan 10 en- 10y the Swiss hospitality. At Bale
one finds everything very much like
France but when sat down 20 Our first
meal I'm Zurich. breakfast Of cafe au lait'
coffee with milk. delightful bread. nice
butter honey and ale, We realized that we
were really among the Swiss. We ascend
cd the ITitliberg and had a fine view or
Zurich and the lake. and then we hurried
on 10 Coire. anxious 70 be among the beau-
tiful Alps. Coire German Chur) is beau
tifully situated on The banks or the Pies
sur. which falls into the Rhine near the
town. The mountains tower on all sides,
and tho little village seems 20 be all closed
IA from the world. we had a grand view
from our hotel, which we had chosen be-
cause OF it's elevated position and imposing
tower. We found II rather old and crun-
blng. II was formerly the tower or an an
cIent Roman palace, all OF which has been
torn away excepting the tower, around
which modern hotel has been construct
Cd, and the tower repaired for an observa-
tory.
And now we were ready for the most in
teresting part Of our Journey. the ride by
diligence or coach from Coire to Chiaven-
IA. At $50 in the morning. just as day was
creeping mp the valley. we set out. eight
messengers. driver guide and our baggage
following iu wagon. The coaches are
very comfortably arranged four seats in
side. two places above in the back and two
above IN front. The outside places are
rather better for the view. but we found
tho inside better for long ride, From
Core 10 Thusis the ride was very line We
stopped at the little mountain inns for tho
mail or 10 send telegram, and then we
sped on again. through the valleys. up tho
mountains. The horses were changed every
hour. six for one coach, two for the bag
gage. and then In one hour they we're very
fatigued At the little town Of Thusis We
f-~ t,aIf Ia fav is
prettiiy situated at the foot of the Nein-
Zenberg. and is the starting place for ex-
Cursions Just above the gorge, through
which tho Rhine rushes. are the ruins OF
the old castle Hoch-Ryalt. the oldest castle
IN all Of Switzerland. having been founded.
so il is said. In 80 r.. G.
Leaving Thusis. we entered the famous
Via Mala. tho finest scenery of the route.
The rocks tower on both sides high above
the road. The river. far below. rushes on
over its rocky bed. We got down on the
bridge 10 get better view of the Rhine.
which here rushes through a narrow IA
vine scarcely two feet wide and far be-
meath the bridge. After four hours we en-
tered the Schmsir Thai, with pretty,
green valleys meadows. grazing cattle and
nocks of goats. At ] T. m. We were at
Splugen. the eating station. and also the
station Of the Bernadino route. The jour
ney from here. though not so picturesque
winding up the steep mountains. some
times so near a precipice that il seemed
very unsafe. going through the long tun-
nels. built 10 protect the road from ava
lanche then hurrying down at what seem
cd a very fast rate All K was grand. The
Rhine winds In and out sometimes broad,
quiet stream. again roaring, rushing tor
rent waterfall. and then lost. to appear
again perhaps so quietly meandering along.
Passing through Splugen pass. a bleak.
barren way, the Lambo towering on one
side, Suretahorn on the other. we en-
tered the Italian boundary. Here our bag
gage was examined by customs officers and
We were off again. At o'clock we reached
the vineyards Of ChiaVenna and the lux
uriant vegetation Of Italy Here We got
down from our coach, after riding thirteen
hours through the wild beautiful Alps.
Here we found a nice hotel. with very fine
wines and an abundance Of grapes and
peaches. The town lies pret;lly in the val
ley, surrounded ny high mountains, the
slopes Of which are cultivated for the
grapes. This is the center OF a fine wine
district. and the most important town un-
al the cities ~ the lakes are reached
The people here are very dark: very Ike
the Italian heggars We see in America
Their houses are old. tumble-down stone
houses. fIoorlcss and comfortlesS These
are among tho wine workers. In the better
part OF the town ono finds mere comfort.
hiit never such cleanliness, thrift ard ease
as $ found among the Swiss
VIRGINIA LIST.