The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-30
Some INTERESTING
FASHION CHAT.

Thus far 1 have never written at any
length about mourning gowns, concerning
which Nine Grundy has laid down some
very positive rules governing the period
during which such somber garments
should be worn. For instance, widow
should wear mourning for eighteen
months, Image is worn during the first six
months with crepe, during the next six
months silk and lace, and during the last
six bali mourning materials. At the be-
ginning of mourning long dress should
be worn in the house. The English widows
cap is now in favor in America. AT the
sleeves and neck trimmings of batiste are
used. being more agreeable than crepe
trimmings. which so frequently discolor
the skin. Young widows frequently wear
indoors a veil of crepe luxe in black or
white. Such a veil falls Just over the
shoulders.
Should widow marry before the time
her mourning expires she can wear either
q very plain white dress without ornamen-
tation of any kind, with long black lace
veil covering the face and falling over the
train, or gown of pearl gray silk and a
bonnet of the same shade trimmed with
lilac or mauve,
Mourning Tor a parent, father or mother
in-law should be worn one year; six
months wool and crepe, three months silk
and three months half mourning. Mourn
ing for grandparents, brothers or sisters
lasts six months, and no English crepe is
used. Light mourning may be donned for
three months for an aunt or uncle. Again,
parents are wearing black for even their
very young children.
Up to six years of age children wear as
their mourning dead white; older ones
wear either black or gray trimmed with
white I do not think shall ever forget
when little child seeing twin babies alb
solutely covered with crepe because they
had lost their father. Even the big baby
carriage was upholstered in black. They
were very Jolly mites, and l used to wonder
how under such circumstances they could
ever shake a rattle or crow like other
babies, but do not consider this dressing
of the twins so bad as to dress in deep
mourning nervous and impressionable
children who may be made miserable by
such constant reminder OF a loss.
Dead white has been worn by the Prin-
cess of Wales as mourning when at home !;
indeed it is considered in the best of taste
for those who can afford it. A black dress
is always presumably worn to funerals
whether the wearer is in any way or not
connected with the mourners.
Mourning is exceedingly expensive, as
only the best materials can be used If
the costume is to look like anything, and
even then it viii soon become shabby if
worn in dusty place where constant
brushings are necessary.
a severely simple dress of good cash.
mere trimmed with English crepe will
cost. even in Paris, about $50, and that is
without silk Innings.
Huge. wells reaching to the bottom of the
dress and enveloping the figure are much
worn in Europe, and are of the highest,
most transparent texture. A new crepe
has inst been placed upon the English
market, and it has great advantage over
any manufactured heretofore, in that
dampness does not affect it in the least;
indeed, it may be positively rained on
without being spoiled.
Cheap outfits are, of course, to be had,
but they are the poorest investments pos
sible.
For young women and girls are. shown
swell outing dresses for demi-mourning
whrh are most becoming. One of white
pique was finished with ruche of black
SILK chiffon. while just below the elbow was
tied q bow of black satin ribbon. With
this were worn black gloves and dainty
hat of accordion pleated black chiffon,
with Just touch of white. For girls the
hat is of the same fabric, but in this case
white with the scrap Of black appearing
amidst the sunny whiteness.
But to change the subject, the French
modists have all been rushed preparing for