Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-12-07

How AmberSris is Used in the Manu-
facture of Perfumes.

| How Ambergris is Used in the Manu-
| facture of Perfumes.
| From the Boston Transcript.
To the conservative whale fisher of New
| Bedford or Provincetown the discovery OF
ambergris is as unexpected and as longed for
as the sheeny splendor Of the pearl that
gladdens the pearl fisher. or the sparkle OF
the diamond that sends it's radiance straight
to the heart of the coal miner. There is that
delightful uncertainty. that same shake-and-
throw doubt, that allures the Spectator to
take his chances; though that of the whale
man Is much more legitimate business, for
with the zeal that characterizes these mer-
chants of the ocean. there is coupled the alb
solute certainty Of reduplication according
to their efforts.
Almost awestruck are the sailors when the
cry of "Ambergris!' is uttered. This is the
happy event of a lifetime. The substance
Is carefully taken from the bowels of the
whale and Is packed in casks, II 1t Is in liquid
form, or in sacks If 1t Is dry enough.
1t is then brought. in its nauseatingly odor-
ferrous condition, direct to Boston, where 1t
| Is appraised by the head of the largest
wholesale drug firm in the city. This young
man has no enviable task before him in as
pertaining the value of the article. He has
to examine the mass, which Is sometimes In
rank liquid state. sometimes of the con-
slstency OF soft putty, and again chalklike
substance. That which is more like putty
usually is to be best relied on for making the
best market ambergris. and gradually as 1t
dries-the only curing process 1t undersoes-
the unwholesome dark shade gradually turns
to soft squirrel gray. The substance light
ems in weight, and the subtle, fascina ting
odor develops an odor almost indescriba BILE
like the blending of new-mown hay the
damp woodsy fragrance of a fern-copse and
the faintest possible perfume of the violet
And to what use is ambergris put? 1t is an
indispensable article with fine perfumes, as
1t Is used to give permanency and lasting
;c
Gus fact that the keynote or basis of nose
gays or bouquets" as handkerchief odors
are called, is not. as one might suppose the
altar of garden flowers nor the penetra ting
balsams-these are Indispensable but are not
the groundwork. That basis is always one
of the four animal odors, 1. e. ambergris
musk, obtained from small musk deer of
Asia, ciVet, from the civet cat of India an !
castor, secretion of the castor beaver AMI
now almost obsolete in the perfume trade
The pure and separate tincture of any one
of these odors is too intense and powerful to
be tolerated Like all substances of these
kinds they must undergo a slow decomposi-
tiCn till the remainder possess very little
volatility. Even then they contain a viz
tue which clinSs pertinaciously to woven
ia bricS, and not being soluble in weak aka :
line Ives is still to be detected in the mater
ial after passing through the lavatory or
deal. They are. therefore. of great value to
the perfumer. and are the essential founda-
ton in almost every formula.
The essence of ambergris is obtained by
mixing three ounces of it with one gallon of
pure alcohol. and not till after a month is it
ready for use. This, however, Is only kept
for mixing, and is far too strong. Only when
1t has entered in minute proportion into the
bouquet does it produce those agreeable and
characteristic perfumes, the effect of which
upon the nerves of the sensitive nose is much
like the happy sensation produced by har-
mCnious musical chords on the delicate ear
or the perfect blending of colors to the edu-
Gated eye.
AS ambersris Is the most costly Of the an
are of the most expensive kinds. 1t Is used
more in France than in this country civet
being extensively used for a retainer in Am
erican-made perfumes. Most of the amber
girls is shipped therefore to France, where it
finds ready demand.