The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1895-02-17
WHAT IS PROPER
TO BE WORN NOW.


demand for pearls.
The fashion of wearing rosette-like
clumps of brilliantly colored artificial
flowers on either side of the face, nesting
IN ruchings of gauze, chiffon or satin, or
else coyly peeping from the velvety brown
OF the sable throatlets, is becoming very
general 1t is pretty fancy and one
easily copied, hence its popularity. But
when common flowers are used, the very
| attractive neck ornaments become decid-
edly commonplace.
There is no end to the new fancies in
sleeves, one is described as very odd and
quite a new model. 1t seems to be long
full drapery, open on the inner arm seam,
and both sides faced for four or five inches
| with black satin, the sleeve being of pale
gray The fullness is caught at the elbow
and the facings fall below like two tabs,
with excellent effect. | would not advise
any. one to attempt to have this sleeve
| made at home.
beautiful evening cloak is described as
being of leaf-green velvet, the fronts
trimmed with ermine.
| A costly originality is mentioned in
leading fashion journal. 1t is a length of
| Venetian point inset with brilliants that is
to say, one portion of the lace design is cut
away while similar pattern in diamonds
| takes its place; small diamonds by means
of fine platinum wire are scattered over the
lace, produce beautiful effect and make
| most artistic piece of work. This lace can
| scarcely become popular, as it cost the
sum of $1,000 per yard, and was but six
| inches in width.
Coates, which were seen occasionally
last autumn, are to be the craze this
spring They are short in the skirts, very
| full and jaunty the Innings showing quite
plainly in the Fittings. but women, if very
short and stout or very tall, must have the
length adapted to their style. A coatee
| may be in color contrasting with the
skirt, but is exceedingly effective when
matching the skirt.
We may still add black skirts to our
| wardrobes as they are to continue in popu-
| larity, for the dainty colored waists, en-
! riched with lace and embroidery will be
much worn during the spring and sum-
mer.
All the new shades for spring are de-
scribed as dreams, but so costly are many
| of the new crepOns that many a husband
and father will have nightmare over the
bills for the pretty simple spring toilettes.
Guaranteed velvet is to be much the
rage.
| Belts of silver webbing are shown, with
| open-work etched or chased buckle.
| Flower pins, for fastening flowers to the
dress, always make pretty simple gift.
Boutonniere boxes in the shape of a rose
are quite new.
Chiffon is beginning to be replaced, in
many cases, by tulle.
Bretelles on the corsage will be more in
! vogue than revers.
Violets are again, for the moment, the
rage, both natural and artificial being worn
in great abundance.
The newest theater bonnets are larger
| than they have been, but not aggressively
| So A novel feature in them is that of sug-
| costing some flying creature, a butterfly, a
| fly, dragon-hy, or beetle. The insect is
not reproduced exactly, but it's wings are
made to appear repeatedly in chiffon, or
gauze, which is firmly wired to keep the
wings in place, and are then covered with
| spangles, to which are sometimes added
rhinestones mounted in silver Most of
these bonnets are black, and SO can be also
worn at afternoon receptions.
Many say that the masculine-attired
| girl is disposed to be slangy. The French
would say it is the natural result OF her
| clothes.
Very seasonable toques are made
entirely of black feather trimming and
with all the edges curled under to form
long slender puffs. These are quite COM
and have soft feather pompons near the
front. Still other toques are of black lace
resembling an applique lace veil dyed
black, gathered softly on a thin founda-
| ton, the front finished In godetS that rest
on the hair and the trimming a large
crushed pink rose on each side, with an
aigrette on the left.
From New York standpoint the finest
and smartest shoe is made of dongola skin,
species of goatskins, which wears remark
ably we'll. 1t has taken the place of the
| French kid, and this dongola kid can be
| had glazed for more dressy boots, but the
unglazed is used for the heavy walking
shoe. The fdvorite last is the very pointed
| one,