The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1895-11-04

TEE NEW EIGHT GoRED SKIRT.

ed, and the velutina binding and the
under ruffle, if one is desired. AS to
facings, the fiber channels is q sort of
wood pulp paper, quite soft and pliable,
but my own experience with it rather
tends to cause me to prefer something
else for gown that may be exposed to
weather. A few of the best dressmakers
are now using blue denim for the heavy,
stiff facing, this to be covered, if SO de-
sired, with silk or mohair. The denim
should be washed and ironed. 1t be-
comes very firm and stiff and never loses
its qualities, while all other facings do,
except haircloth, and everybody hates
that prickly, unwieldy stuff.
To begin, the lady must lay her fold
ed goods en- a fat surface, with the
double fold il the exact inter Of the
front breadth, which is numbered in
the diagram. Measuring the length of
the skirt and allowing inches for
'take up" il the lengths, she marks the
spot with 2 Pin or piece of chalk. Then
measure IL inches at the top, on the
double and mark that across, beginning
from the fold. Garry The line down
diagonally, making the bottom of the
front breadth % inches, II on the dou-
bic and cut by the mark. If the goods
are 40 or more inches wide, the side
cores will come out of the same width.
These two front side cores are marked
8. They are 3 inches at the top and
each 10 inches at the bottom. The
dotted line shows where the selvage
goes. Next come the two back side
cores. These are inches at the top and
II at the bottom and Gus so that the
straight edge joins the gore of the front
side breadths. The three back breadths
are cut Oh the straight center fold of the
material and are gored on both sides.
Each is inches across the top and %
at the bottom. Each of the three back
breadths has a scalloped dip of / y
inches in the center.
When these breadths and the lining
are all cut, they should be carefully
basted together around all seams. Then
the breadths and lining should be sewed
up, beginning the seams at the top in
variably. The facing should have been
cut exactly like the lower part of the
skirt, and when the seams in the skirt
havo been sewed and pressed fat, the
facing, previously sewed and pressed,
is to be tackled to the inside, holding the
skirt next to the person. Leave the edges
raw. Then basic the velutina binding
on the outside and stitch it down, after
which turn it back and fell it up onto
the facing. This facing, of stiff ma
terial, should have been faced nearly to
the top with silk or mohair and this
hemmed down-preferably by machine,
as it is firmer. When this is all done,
press the facing, always on the wrong
side of the skirt, rubbing the iron mp
ward from the edge of the skirt The
facing will be thus made to conform en-
tirely and perfectly to the outside. After
this is done the upper edge of the stiff
facing may be notched and cat stitched
down to the lining, or it may be bound
with lustring ribbon and this slip stitch
ed to the lining. The facing to the back
breadths should be rounded down ex-
actly like the outside and finished of
in the same way.
If silken ruffles are added, they should
be sewed to the facing after the rest is
finished. The belt may be put on. The
front breadth should be followed out at
the top one inch and held full along the