New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-08-18


and must increase the size OF the abdomen.
The English idea OF a corset IL a very long. slim
waist the longer the better and their filters strive
ID get that effect above everythns else 1t may suit
the typical English figure In its youth. but 1t Is
very bad on a short, plump figure. have seen an
American girl almost In tears English tailor
OF the first class because the filter insisted upon
making her waist an inch below It's natural line
she had the good sense to know that IL would make
her rather short limbs appear shorter and that
she would lose apparent inch In height well
as the pretty. plump OF her waist and hips.
French dressmaker would never have made
such mistake. She would have kept the natural
waist line and disposed OF the fulness OF the hips
on the sides and In the back. Above ALL II the
corset was a proper nj. 1t would not press In the
curve In the back OF the waist In front the
Oh the sides under the bust would be as sharp as
was consistent with comfort.
One by one the dressmakers showing their
autumn models. Every prominent house has Its
own designs. but. althoIgh many pretty fances
appear there are few very marked changes There
are a number OF new skirts shown but they have
not caught on very we'll. and the skirt generally
made for private orders differs very little from the
ones In vogue now. 1t may have fewer godets and
there are generally but two tubellke pleats in the
back but 1t flares Just smary toward the hem.
SIX gowns made for summer wear have rufiied
skirts. but fa,l gowns built OF heavy stuffs have
plain skirts or lengthwse panel trimmings There
are lot OF pretty novelties being used. the mixed
woods being particularly modish.
An autumn frock is Of mixed brown and dull
red wool. trimmed with fancy cashmere silk in
dull colors. There Is n yoke OF silk. and wide scarf
ends " II pass the shoulders. lying fiat
the back. The silk scarfs knot at the waist line
and fall. sash-fashion, down the skirt each
side Of the back godets. The front OF the waist
Is d haf-bodice OF the WOOL rounded tribe below
the waist line. and gathered the bust to meet
re cka in hoxp iaa.q he t0yyar ~ no
sleeve is a close cuf Of the silk pushed up the
In a deep point.
The hip pieces described in a previous letter seem
10 be success. although they shown In dif
ferent shapes a very clever skirt made OF black
satin has very boufant godet hip pieces. which
tend in tabots down the front and back seams.
The effect is very pretty. This skirt is intended
TO be worn with several bodices One Is of a beau
tiful satin and velvet plaid in blue and green. and
has oddly shaped yoke and fiat collar OF guipure
lace squares over green satin. The collar Is cut
into many small lace tabs which fall over the top
OF the sleeves. The waist Is cut with one fiat box
peat In front which narrows to point just below
the waist line
No imitation laces are 10 be used this
The real gupure or the Venice point is the proper
thing. Although lace will be very fashionable, natu-
rally less be used than was the custom when
imitation laces were in good form. There is
beautiful combination Of Venice point and Valen-
ciennes that is largely used for collars and scarfs.
and the Brussels point II seen again.
This rule against the Of machine made laces.
many Of which are extremely beautiful. seems
almost absurd just now, when gowns for daytime
use covered with Strauss diamonds and imita-
ton stones Some of the models OF dinner gowns
being made for America show profuse OF
these diamond" buttons, but many Parisiennes
consider II bad taste TO them in the evening,
they should never be brought in contact with
the real stones.
handsome street gown for the autumn is Of
of the wool cOrduroys, with tiny row
of cross-stitching between the heavy cords II is
in a soft tone OF gray combined with fancy Z TX
yellow. The bodice Is of the silk with narrow
box pleats Of the cloth over II. There at least
five. front and back, and they taper very much,
coming TO point below the waist line Each peat
is held by Of small cloth buttons The cloth
skirt has a tab down each side seam held
by row Of buttons.
on cloth suits buttons Of the same stun are very
much used the fancy buttons being kept for vel
vet gowns elaborate woods combined with silk
satin
travelling suit Of mixed wool is cut princess
fashion. with very full cape reaching to the
waist The collar and long cape are IN one, but
Is fulled and about seven inches deep. This is
carried about the shoulders. The collar Is a high
rolling affair with big bow on each side,
4 charming frock Is striped pink and sreen
fitting and fastening nvisibly on thc shoulder oni
under the arm. showing the bias seams In old
time style The back Of the bodice has short
pointed coattails. There Is yoke Of gupure lace
ploa ted epauetios the top Of the see yes. The
yoke Is bordered by soft scarf Of green velvet.
which extends straight across the bust from
under the arms. This velvet s edged with green