The sun., 1895-05-26
fHE BROWNING PALACE AT vENIoE.
A Ru,idinr Filled with Memories and Relies
of Two Poets Dsar 70 Thonsnnds.

A Ru,idinr rtued with Memories and Relic.
of Two Poets Dear to Thousands.
VENICE. May 1a-On the Grand Canal nt
Venice there is a singularly interesting group OF
buildings. First at tho corner OF the small
canal which every tourist traverscs on his way
to and from the station is the great red pilo
known as the Palazzo Foscari. 1t is now used
as sort of business college, and young Vene-
tians learn bookk eeping in the banquet halls of
the old doge. Next to 1t are two gray and
ancient buildings, leaning against each other
and the Foscari for support They form ono OF
the Gustiniani palaces and harbor mosaic fac
tory. Beyond Is solid and rather gloomy
looking building standing somewhat aloof from
the neyhbors and with broad semi-circular
flight OF steps leading from the pillnred entrance
down into the water Of the Grand Canal. Tho
posts outside for the vcnicnce of the gondolas
arc painted a duh brown In contrast with the
blue and white posts OF tho other palaces. High
Iron gates close the entrance.
The first trip you make on the watery high
way of Venice your curiosity VIII be satisfied in
regard to this palace, IL ON no other point, for
every gondoler knows the Browning palace.
Get him to poke the nose .. his gondoa between
those brown posts, and, IL tho custodian Is not
in sight, ring the bell beside the iron gates. A
rather grabbed looking man will let you in, and.
with a gruIncss which is only rs 1t were skin
deep, tell you to 90 through tho court and up
the broad staircase ut tho rear. In tho court
you will find a bronze statue OF II beautiful
woman, about whose nude body q serpent has
coiled its folds; she holds its head to her BOSOM
and looks at 1t with strange fondness. IT, you
like speculation you will begin TO wonder what
manner OF man II Is who modelled this figure.
and you Will ell. I'D the staircase viii more than
Barrett Browning, the sole heir to the names OF
Two great poets and tho master OF he house you
have come to see
At the toy OF the broad stairs the custodian
will be waiting for you at the doors lending into
& great hail with ~ htEh ,rsscped ceiling by
Hs young us it Is TO be hoped you are you will
,ake an eAperinen,al whri across tins shining
Result, an enviuus sigh when he announces that
this is tho safe am 64l. ion sigh again even
years ago Emma Eames spent II month us
guest in this palace. and that every evening She
sang to her host and nis frisnds as they sat in
the great easy chairs you see on that island OF
rugs at the other end Of the hall. As # it were
not enough to have this delightful old palace
the world come and iii it with music You be.
come more than ever orthodox on the subject
of TO whom that hath shall Uc given"
The custodian unwitingly helps to ground
YOU in the faith by leading you Through one
old wood carving, old frescoes. inlaid cabinets.
and pictures ana statues by the owner of 1t all.
More interesting than the works OF art how
ever. are the reminders o! the two poets whose
personalities are 40 dear to thousands of people.
Here is II bust of Elizabeth Barrett Browning,
modelled BY her son. and her portrait by the
same careful hand. And there is an earlier por-
trait OF her. more beautiful than those one gen
orally sees. and bust OF her as a young girl,
with the curs in the snmc way that she wore
them all her life. In one corner Is the small
writing desk she used. and near it is the bust of
her husband In a small alcuve is reproduce
tion Of a memorial tablet in Florence;
One is SURPRISED to find how lvabe this big
palace has been mndc. In the arst place. the
owner in addition to the kindness of permitting
people to visit tho house has added the courtesy
of regarding them rs probably honest. Most
show" houses are scrupulously swept and gar
nshed of everything which ma kes them home
like and real. They contain barren array Of
chairs. tables, and SO on. but that is all. Mr..
browning has been kinder to the visitors. whom
he evidently regards as. in wny his guests.
There are books on the table, there is music ON
the rack in the music room and there are inter-
esting photographs of HIS father and mother.
lie makes you feel as if he understood why you
came and was glad You look at his own plotG-
graph with kindly interest and are not sorry,
after all. that he has u palace and that Emma
Eames came and sang to him.
He Is. as shown BY this photograph, man OF
Thirty wa T.uA nr wen se a
thin ON top. He has u dark moustacl,e. and
seems a well-bult fellow. quite. as capable of
riding across. country as or painting the pic
lures and modelling tho statues with which the
adjoining hall is filled,
The dining room. looking out on the canal, has
You long to Soc how the light would dance Ia IL.
The buffers pantry adjoining is ns large the
with row after row of polished china and glass
The library is being made over to suit this fas-
tdious young man. and will be most attractive
has picked up. he knows where The hoor above
is occupied hy bedrooms. while the ground floor
is the home of the custodian. the boat house."
and general store room MIR. Browning occupies
the palace alone except for his fathers sister,
who lives with him. Part OF the time only is
spent at Venice. the artist having partality
for his country house. fine place about two
hours distant by rail.