The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-07-03

while 1t does not etifliy dlstend the sleeve-puff, it keeps its body, and thus holds the puff much longer in position than when other Things are used. | Sleeves on expensive imported gowns are lined with the thinnest of taffeta silk, usually white, with finger-length of doubled bias tarletan or crinoline gathered on with the sleeve between the outside material and the taffeta lin- ing.
 The muslin, gingham, and cotton dresses of every description are very simple in style, though very chic and pretty in effect. Lace insertions and narrow edgings and lace-patterned em- broideries, with belt and sash ribbons of satin, constitute the trimmings for these gowns. The skirts are gored on
 the front and sides, and have full | straight breadths in the back. They are trimmed with narrow frills at the
 bottom or finished with a deep hem. The waists are simply gathered little below the stock collar, and again at the waist line, and trimmed in the form of a yoke or up and down with bands of
 insertion.
 Very dainty dresses for afternoon teas are made of India null worn over low necked underbodies and gored skirts Of golden green or Persian mauve silk. The skirt has insertions of lace, and the the full waist is trimmed lavishly with rows of the lace and great loops and falling ends of satin ribbon the color of
 the underdress, with sash of the same
 falling from the edge of the waist, which fastens at the back.
 l Taffalette is the name given to new
 lustrous lining cotton, which is also used for foundation skirts under semi
 diaphanous textiles. It has the gentle
 swish of silk, and is of. good width and quality. It comes in gray, black, white and some of the soft pretty summer
 tints. It is about as heavy as perca- line, and costs twenty-five cents yard. Valenciennes lace both white and but
 ter-colored is used in a most lavish
 manner upon nearly every article of
 summer dress. Lawn and organdie gowns are elaborately decorated with
 both wide and narrow patterns of this lace These gowns are as expensive in
 a strict sense as silk, for the cost of l freshening them when soiled is exces-
 sive, and the process has to be repeated
 throughout the season if much use is made of the dresses. Laundry work,
 though high-priced, is not in our coun-
 try made the fine art that it is in Paris, i where so man ywomen take up the
 work con amore in a sense, though of
 course following their profession as
 means of obtaining a livelihood.
 Black lace about an inch wide and
 broad black velvet ribbon are used to
 trim handsome gowns of fine French
 muslin, and one feature of this combin-
 ation is an immense bow of velvet rib-
 bon on one side of the front of the
 bodice at the edge of the yoke, and
 close to the sleeve seam. As in the
 case of lace garnitures, the vogue for
 ribbon trimmings of velvet, satin, and
 Dresden patterned silk will prevail all
 summer These are lavishly used as
 decorations on thin toilets and fancy
 silks for both day and evening wear
 Besides the usual uses to which these
 graceful trimmings are put in the form
 of rosettes, straight rows, etc., they are
 also made into suspenders. Breton
 bands crossing the bodice front hori-
 zontally or stimulating box pleats from
 shoulder and chin to belt, and these
 ribbon garnitures are very often over-
 laid with wide lace insertions of rich
 heavy design or frightened with span gles or jetted gimp.
 The colonial style of dress is much used this season for light materials like organdie, printed or dotted Swiss
 muslin, lowered batiste, etc, as well as
 for French gingham crepon and many of the fancy summer silks. This style l, consists of a waist and skirt joined to-
 gether, the Joining concealed by rib bon, gimp, or bias folds of silk. For
 slender forms the bodice portion fas- tens in the back, and in front it is
 elaborately trimmed. This with the
 exception of the fastening at the back, !, is particularly good model also for , women inclined to stoutness; indeed,
 it is one to be commended to them to be followed, no matter what varied : fashions may prevail The style does ) away with a double quantity of fabric ; about the hips, and as rule it is more , becoming than straight up-and-down princess dress cut in wrapper-llke lines from neck to skirt hem.
 The neatest and most refined of any of the bathing suits worn this season : are made of black mohair or Botany twilled wool with black stockings and sandals to match. The skirt are two and one-half yards wide and of good length The waist and knickerbockers are joined at the belt. The sleeves are
 large and very full, and the blouse : trim but not at all tight fitting. Dark marine blue suits are trimmed with wool braid dotted in white or red. This trimming appears upon the very large sailor collar and belt. Other blue serge suits have white Pompadour square 5 in front, white sailor collar, and rowe : of white mohair braid on the skirt The fashy harlequin style of bathing dress appears to have been suppressed this season, as few have been exhibited The bathing shoe and stocking com- bined is seen in blue, black and brown It is shaped like very long jersey stocking and finished with water l proof sole that wholly protects the foot A young lady who provides herself with a stylish black satin skirt and one or two accordion-pleated ones in cream white and gray, and one of white mo- hair or surah, with half a dozen fancy waists and blouses, can give charm. ing variety in her costumes, and look | fyoch prettu oil cup1y,oor 1oro o4