New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-10-20
RAMBLES IN SCOTLAND.
A GLIMPSE OF ST. ANDREWS-THE CAN
TERBURY OF SCOTLAND.


St Andrews September H.
As We sp.ed through the green and yellow
autumn fields. northward and west out Of Edin-
burgh the huge Pentland Hills show black IN
! the morning mist AMI the sombre Corstorphine
| looms stately and splendid beneath a rainy sky
There are portents OF storm. but in the ca
pricIous cline of Scotland the smile is close to
| the tear and we are rejoiced rather than sur
prised when rolling across the Forth Bridge TO
see riffs Of blue in the sullen clouds ana Il
CLINT Of golden sunshine on the smooth' uaih
river far below Upon the beaches OF burnt
island the tide - flowing softly. in long thin
foamless waves that idly lapse and seem to make
no sound Southwark. looking across the steel
gray water OF the Forth, We can discern the
recedng spires and domes Of beautiful Edin-
bureh with Arthur's Seat and the Pentland
Mass-like watchful lions couched confronting
I'm the mist Soon we fit through gray kirk
caldy.-a name grizzly famous in Scottish his
tory.-gazing pass. on Its quaint church
among the graves and marking. far at sea the
lighthouse on the lonely Isle OF Mary.
At Dysart we leave the coast and trend north
ward through meadows that are fresh with verdi
ure and among graceful hills crowned with green
copses and now beginning to glitter in the brill
liant autumn sun. No part Of Scotland Is more
carefully and tastefully cultivated and adorned
than this section OF Fife. where every prospect
eloqsently denotes the gracious result OF many
years OF industry and thrift. Stately villas peep
forth from the woods. Low. rsd-roofed cottages
the simple and cosey abodes Of CONFERENCE.-The
in the wales. Lazy cattle. many-colored anu
picturesque. stray in the pastures or couch oe-
side the dark cool. shining streams NOT even
in finished WarwickshlIe can the wanderer ma
gentler pictures Of rural peace than may De
seen in Fife At Ladyb2nk we are almost WITH
in the shadow Of THAI singular morntaln'-eN'-
dertly the inspiration OF the name which VIII"
its symmetrical double peaks. suggests virgin
bosom barred TO the benediction of the sky. Next
we dash past opulcnt Cupar. and presently from
busy Ieuchars. whore myriads OF screaming sea
BIRDS fiji the grassy moOrs. we look across the
bay 10 the sand dures and the crags OF ~.
Andrews the gray tower Of its ancient ana
famous church. and the desolate pnnacles OF It's
ruined Cathedral once beautiful. always re-
n0wned and still august and reverend among
the shrines Of Scotland
g: Andrews - The present is a small gray
town built mostly Of stone. perched on a prom
cntorv overlooking the northern ocean. and de-
voted in part 10 learning and in par: 10 sport Its
four principal streets like the ribs OF out
spread fan. converge To n point, at the ruined
Castle and Cathedral on its eastern shore. and
those streets are interlaced with lateral cause
ways and diversified with occasional squares
Upon one side Of the promontory the surges of a
Wild sea break in stormy music on beach and
crsg Upon the other. rising from the bed Of a
tiny river a moorland shelves away to
circle OF low hills. No-tnward. across the broad
waste Of sparkling water rises the shore OF
Forfarshre stretching from Buddon Ness
toward Mon,rose while far to the eastward
glear1s the lighthouse on the lonely Bell Rock
The living sights of the the colleges
and the Golf Links. 1t is not however for
living sights that the pilgrim seeks ST. Andrews.
but for the associations that cluster round its
ruins. end for the thoughts that are prompted
by remembrance Of its past. st. Andrews Is 10
Scotland what Canterbury is to England.-the
emblem Of vast civic conflict and a national
tragedy-and as you stand in the roofess nave Of
its once glorious now desolate Ca thedra and see
the moss ard the trembling wild flowers on its
broken walls ana hear the moan OF the ocean,
wind through Its lofty mullioned easements and
around its crumbling turrets 50 softly rcstful to
yoLr eyes. you forget the present, and remem-
Der only the princes and prelates Of bygone
age the zealots who fought and the martyrs VINO
persisted and all the misery and all the pathos
Of the ancient battle.-ong over and done with
now.-fcr liberty Of conscience and Of faith
St Andrews was the centre OF that contention,
and 1t s replete with its relics
In the dreadful dungeon still visible. In the
sea-tower OF is Castle. Wishart was held a
captive. until burned.-for heresy,-in front Of
The Castle gates. while Cardinal Beaton and his
companions 4 tho Church looked on. exultant. at
a martyrs Death The old guide who now lowers
his lighted cIndle into that foul abyss and
garr,ousy prattles OF its horrors might make a
tanner theme grotesque. but this Is wholly
tragic. and not even comic v0lubility can dissi-
pate its gloom Into that botte-shaped pit
Kirkcady Of Grange and his fierce confederates
cast the body % Beaton. and Tapped it with salt.
after they had murdered him In his bedroom OF the
Castle. and dangled his dead corpse from the
battlemcnts III windows OF the Cardinals
rooms, in the great tower. still look upon the
town. From that Castle when taken by he
French John Knox WIS carried away into his
captivity in the galleys. Not much remains of
the grim old structure now. but. perched II
upon prec.pitous crsg. jutting into the sea.
with broad. deep moat around its landward
sides. il must have been n citadel OF prodigious
f0rttude and IL is formidable even III its ruin.
The breaking angrily at its base,
and ali the sea. for many niles around. was
white with wreaths Of foam. as l looked down
upon it from the windy height OF st. Ruhes
Tower. and in the oflng single ship, with her
sails cose-reefed. heavily tossing on the
surge. Just such a spectacle may often have
been seen from It's battlements by Edward
Ballot Queen Mary Stuart. or the Regent
Murray. II was long the abode Of princes be-
fore II became the home OF priests. Beaton, as
he trod rs ramparts looked forth TO many
baleful blaze % the fagots kinded by his
cruelty for the burning OF men whose faith was
not his. Knox gazed from 1t upon the Ca
thedra that he hated. and that he was destined
TO destroy II was in tie Town Church OF St |
AnGrews.-stil extant and still a noble and most |
characteristic and interesting ecclesiastical
bullding-that Knox preached the renowned ser