The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-07-15

have seen anything so neat and sensible.
They are made of anything that comes
handy, believe, for I saw them in flannel
cite, serge, cloth, box cloth, cheviot, rib
bed velutina and tweed, and believe some
other things also. They are all short, all
are extremely simple, and none has
trimming beyond two or three narrow
lines of sOutache. Some of them are
shaped in the back slightly, some are
slashed, and others have three godet plaits,
but all the fronts are plain REFER shape
Some have pockets with and others without
flaps, and some have no pockets. They all
have medium sized leg o. mutton sleeves.
Some are high at the throat, with plain fiat
collars, and others lap and have quite
wide and sometimes fanciful revers or oc-
casionally velvet collar. But these are
not as serviceable as the plain tailor stitch
ed ones. Dark russell red jackets have
black or very narrow gold braid The blue
ones have black, gold or white braid when
any is used The buttons are sometimes
gilt, but more often they are of plain bone
All but those of very thick material are
lined with light silk. These REFERS are for
girls from to 16 years Of age. 1t will be
n REFER season for them. The colors run
from white to the darkest gray, brown,
blue, dark green and red. Cardinal and
russell reds are the only suitable shades of
that color.
While the young folks are indulging in
refers the older ones are coming forward
with a wide choice of capes and mantel-
cts. Those L have recently mentioned,
think. There are many new ideas in capeS
for middle aged and elderly ladies. Some
OF these are of rich beaver cloth, some of
fine broadcloth, some of black cancels hair
and others of eudora cloth. Some are made
of silk, moire, satin duchess and black
brocades. Indeed there is scarcely any
thing in black material that cannot DO
made use of, given taste and a judicious
choice of trimming. For elderly ladies'
Jet and lace are the only permissible gar
niture aside from black hand embroidery
and little ribbon finish These may
be applied with as lavish hand as one
may desire. Bright spangles and white
lace are obviously too frivolous for any eld-
erly lady of fine taste.
A model of a cape for an elderly woman
was made of the heavy quality of eudora
cloth and was fitted rounding to the
shoulders. In the back it was laid in two
hollow plaits, and down the center was n
small trimming OF beaded passementerie,
ending with a fall of silk guipure lace. In
front there were two plaits, each having an
opening for the hand. Down the center
there was an elegant pattern of fine beaded
passementerie, ending with a fringe of
large beads with piquets. The revers and
collar were edged with a narrow but very
fine trimming, and around the neck was
a full ruff of black lace and ribbon. There
is nothing so becoming to a lady who is
past the first freshness of youth as these
lace rufus. Ostrich boas and collars are
also becoming, but lace is more so.
The time will soon be here when wraps
may be laid aside, if desired, and for those
who prefer such costumes there are many
new designs and models. 1 saw one very
rich street costume made of fine black
whipcord, the skirt cut medium in width
Down each seam there was narrow ma
pies blue satin ribbon thickly sewed with
long black Jet beads. The waist was slight
ly pointed in front and had n short pos