The morning times., 1895-09-01
Go@n Plans
From Paris
NEW AUTUMN HATS ARE FULL
OF O0QUETRY.
Exquisite and Original Toi1ettes
For the Afternoon-Fetch-
ing Wraps.

Paris, Aug. 91-In the work rooms Of
Paris are busy brains and tireless hands
laboring ceaseIessIy at the problem OF
what shall be worn when the last balloon
sleeve has been pricked by autumn's winds
If, indeed, it is to be so pricked, for OF all
the vexed questions this OF the sleeve is
most yexing; and at this moment the dress
makers OF the whole world are on pilgrim
ages to Paris and there their days are spent
from 10 O'Clock to 4 in said work rooms,
where tentative models are passed and re-
passed before them like magic lantern
slides.
There they are dashlng blindly at rouge
or noir, and laying their money for luck,
knowing not in the least what the end may
be- They buy their models and take them
home, but the ball win not cease rolling
TIL frost-tinle and neither favor nor love
can tell beforehand how many breadtht
| will be accepted as correct in skirt.
Neither she knows that makes nor she
| that VIII wear.
| The character OF the dressis formed largely
| by the hat. It is wide in front, where 1t
| seems weighted with trimming; it is wide
at the sides, where the trimming Is built
out to the edge and beyond, and il turns up
| high behind, with the effect of an enormous
| Spanish black comb, and this comb has set
| flat against it a gamituTe Of flowers. At
| times it seems TO be the width that doml-
| mates and at others the weight Of the front
! or the height OF the back. Its analysis Is
| subtle and evasive. There have been hats
! higher and hats wider, but there have never
been more surprising and complex.
| A part Of its effect is due 70 its position on
| the head; 1t is worn tipped low over the
| face, so that the brim cuts across the disc
| OF the eyes. Then this high -nowcred back
comb and the eyes glancing out from be
Meath the shade have an effect OF extreme
coquetry. The apparently modest pro
duced by the really complex has resulted
In the extremely piquant, and hereby 1t
may be noted that the dTessnaker's arS
has in nowise lost its grip.
A NEW COIFFURE.
4 peculiar style Of hairdressing goes with
| this hat It is called the Boticelli, being
| named after the old master The hair
! bulges out on each side the head low dow q,
| growing wide as il desceUds. being either
waved or plain, so that the face peers from
! between as well as from under. thus aiding
the effect upon it of the hat. The face looks
| delicate and appealing. There Is here amin
stance where mere arrangement Of dress
gives to every woman a grace aud charm OF
! expression that she does not possess by na-
ture.
h beautiful OF ugly face makes no differ
ence to this sort OF charm, for the senses
hold to immediate phenomena, and the
l~seuses are eutranced by this complex CO.
quetry. II after analysis discovers that
the woman is plain there VIII cnsue, not
disappointment, but surprise The epiCure
finds olives much better than preserves, and
a.pink aud white complexion is tame be-
side these subtIeties Here, indeed, is the
triumph Of art.
One may note that uncovered ears are
now shocking Immodest is too small a
word-the naked ear looks fairly braZen,
Thus few weeks Of habltude sweeps de-
cades into oblivion. On which text phil0sO-
ply may be hung, provided warm weather
gives inclination.
AN ANTOINETTE WRAP.
If there is no new dress under the sun
Aarons linen coat being worn to-day by
women and pantaloOus having been found
from the stone cpoch-there are at least
designs lldl EtdpptdE uAe toulels 1s sum
long intervals that they are new TO some
consecutive generations. Thus it is with
q certain Marie Antoinette hood, part OF
Marie Antoinette cloak, that has ap-
peared and seems destined to career. Not
so very old in its design, it is so extremely
odd and its career was 50 short in its day
that 1t comes with all the effect OF sur
prise.
,.T~- do md
booped around the opening, and when OF