New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-08-04

hips and this is sometimes obtained by add & godet
hip panels to the skirt.
About the middle Of last winter Felix introduced
a new dancing skirt which fell very full over the
hips giving a decidedly bourant effect. although 1t
nared toward the hem Advanced styles or changes
in the prevailing modes generally appear hrst IN
evening frocks and some OF the leading houses are
going introduce this skirt In SILKS and sht woo'S
for the autumn. In the same way. the mission OF
sleeves in very modish evening tohettes Iast
winter would seem 70 denote an attempt at change
We are firing OF the large sleeve. but at the same
time. have grown accustomed 10 u 'hat
radical departure just now would hardly meet win
success. Personally | think the winter sleeves vi"
be smaller than the ones we saw during the spring
The modes OF the Court OF Louis XVI have found
favor in a most decided way. The silk coat gowns
which follow the cut OF the gallants coat OF that
reign are the best liked things to-day In women
dress and appear again in the autumn models IN
fancy vevets ard plain and figured satins. while
the dainty frocks of the Queen and her ladfes are
being copied for summer muls and linens.
Crepons and modiste silks show some revival OF
the mode in a modified form. while the Marie
Antolnette chapeau no longer exciies comment
The nchu is arrived fact while sasheS ana
bows on the bust copied from the old pictures
OF the tunc and II is safe to say mat there Is not
a prominent designer in Paris who has not made
a trip TO Versailles during the past few months.
II the influence OF this period continues. IL means
tiny POINTED waists or basques smaller sleeves ana
bouffant skirts. have already seen several
no,nted waists and basque effects. with skirts
slightly frilled the hips, and 1t would seem az
II the acceptance Of the smaller sleeve were oniy
ouestion Of a few months. especially as the sleeves
on all the models are Of moderate fulness.
Fisher & Roberts are exhibiting some very chic
winter models now. and they show some very
radical departures from their spring and summer
gowns A striking costume is OF a black and
white striped silk and black velvet. trimmed with
ostrich feather bands and profuson OF Jets Tho
skirt is Of the silk. faring toward the hem ana
with the fulness laid In fiat boxpleat on each
side.
with a loose front covered with jet passemeh'eie'
over this two scarfs OF the SIX are arranged 10
o,yo n Jacket effect. They start at the shoulder
seams are drawn under the arms and meet at inc
choker in the back. This jacket effect IL outlined
with band OF ostrich feather trimming.
The cboker is a straight band Of the striped SILK,
with above It. a rufile OF the same "ireu Hi'o lii
Elizabethan ruche. and edged with the iea'her
trimming The godet sleeves are moderately largo
and 6nished at the wrist by silk knife-pieatns'
On the back OF the bodice are two velvet breeAes'
which confine the full Jacket pieces.
Another gown Is n very thick NIKE" "oo' VA
black and red. On each side OF the shii'' over 'ne
hing is n shaped piece OF black velvet, about Six
inches deem and ten inches wide. and edged with
a novel black braid trimming. The waist is a
decided basque OF the wool cut IN snort SHARP
-, hock and front which corresponds very well
Nth the hin pieces. The basque has yoke or
a.. velvet trimmed with braid embroidery ana the
gigot sleeves OF the same.
tn. podet hin pieces occur on several or the new
models and are "A decided novelty They are gen
orally worn with the pointed bodice ana oiteh COZ
respond In color and material THIS idea IL SHOWN III
n gown Of green satin and fancy veiVet. Inc sh'e
| rJ elhow sleeves are Of the satin with pointed
BASQUE and hip godets OF velvet. AT the elbows are
caring turnover cuffs OF velvet. and the gown Is
softened by high choker and soft vest front oil yell
| low lace. Ruffies OF lace fall the lower arm.
The blouse has relgned exclusively for so long that
these fitted waists and basques should be welcomed
| and with an attempt at fulness over the hips the
| blouse would be very clumsy. However. II must be
remembered that the models just described are fash
Toned of heavy winter stuff and not intended to be
| worn for several months yet. Many OF the gowns
| designed for early autumn show the still pop
| uar blouse pretty gown Of brown crepon IL COM
bined with a pompadour silk. The crepon skirt Is
| edged with yellow gulpure and cut into shallow
points over a silk rufle giving the effect OF double
| skirt The bodice has a soft surplice front edged
| with lace and the shoulder pieces extend In sim
laceedged bretelles the top OF the sleeves The
sleeves are Of the lowered silk with turnover ours
| Of crepon edged with lace. The choker ana uhy-
pointed yoke under the surpce are Of the Six win
| a large silk bow at the back OF the collar
| In the same place they show novel niue cape
OF fancy silk reaching about halfway to the elbows
| and edged all about with thick silk ruchlng Win
notched edges The novel feature the little gar
| mcnt IL the circular hood Of the same stuff edged
| with the trimming
At one Of the English tailors here they are max
| ing some charming outing suits for September.