The morning times., 1895-08-25
Gomns for
House Parties
M0DISTES ARE BUSY OVER
THE AUTUMN FUNCTIONS.
Square-Neck Bodices, With Old
Lockets Pendant-Revised
FanCies.

New York, Aug. 25.-House parties are
now in order, and longer sojoUrnings out
OF town require suitable tOggery; conse-
queDtly house gowns in delicate woods
are beginning to bloom out in beautiful
autumn tints, trimmings being in the main
fichus or fronts in soft mulls. or else dainty
bib collars, in many fantastic shapes, OF
crisp muslin and batiste, edged with lace.
This brings about a happy and seasOnabIe
result, without looking as if things were
rushed too much, ard the fact that their
| garDitures are extremely becoming VIII
doubtless make them very popular.
The fichu may be confined solely to house
and evening gowns, but it viii be here, il
fr1Ied white null and in silk muslin, edged
with fine Iaces, and the next thing one can
reasonably expect will be a sudden dimin-
ishing in the size Of sleeves, and strong
evening textures VIII be exclusively splen-
did silks and satins. Skirts. also, viii be
plain, or else decorated with quaint muslin
nounces, and the shaping Of party bodices
viii lean toward the pointed corsage, with
round neck, only moderately decOIlete,
L
of her court
FOR TALL AND STOUT WOMEN.
Among the revised fancies for early au-
tumn costuming is evinced a strong liking
for the long 1880 shoulder seam. One
should be tail, however, to carry it off, az
! otherwise the effect Will be grotesqUe. and
for the same reason short figures are ad-
vised to eschew the court" courts that
are threatening US with the next influx Of
Paris modes These coats, it is SAID, viii
De made in cut veIvets. satins and broCades
in gay hues, and with a black or COlOred
skirt, VIII be much affected for evening
wear.
For short figures bodices VIII remain the
round affairs they have been for some
time, though drawn down trimmer in front
aud, il at all decolIete. less 50 tina U former
lT.
\ becoming evening cut for the reveal
ius OF round pretty throats. at present
much in favor. is the little square here
pictured in the GOuble-CCIum u design.
The costume which is most suited 70
| a demOiseile or else very juvenile matron.
| is in pale green, pink or pineapple silk,
| with sleeves and belt OF TriauOn pink velvet.
The plain skirt hangs loosely over a
| green tarfeta petticOat, whose shimmeriug
| surface adds IUstre to the almost trGus-
/ parent pineapple silk. and the bodice is
/ Charmingly draped with French lace head
/ eel by bands IN old pink saloon and green
I pailettes This toilet has Just been de-
! signed as a little dauce and dinner frOCk
/ for house party wardrobe.
COSTUME FOR A YOUNG MATROS,
The second toilet in this picture is a modi-
fled expression of Marie AntOnettism,
/ The material is old yellow brOcade. that
adorable shade of yellow that ma kes . bru-
| nette fair, and the fichu is white silk null.
| edged with very rare and beautiful quail
I ity OF French blonde lace. The costume Is
in two pieces, a plain and very volumI-
, nous skirt which is made stiff only by the
/ superb quality of the silk, the lining OF
white tafleta and outside being sewed up
/ together
/ The upper portion is a short, plain body.
/ with fun, Iooped sleeves and surpIicc front.
I Artificial flowers may with taste dec
\ crate the front of the fiChu-draped cOrsage
/ and the at the back, as they are again IN
/ vogue, and com bine daintily with the fiChu;
/ with the yellow brocade red or yellow
roses, or white GARDENERS are in best
| keeping. IL an ornament is worn, it should
| be in the nature OF an old ieweled brooch or
| Iucket, fastened to black velvet band that
| fits the bare throat snugIy.
| An evening toilette, not Illustrated, dem.
| onstrated the fancy for combining odd
| COlOr> and textures that has characterized
| the summer.
| 1t also gave valuable hints for the using
/ up of odd lengths OF handsome stuff, as the
/ twisting Of several old evening gowns into
! one and yet 10 was a late and very precious
| French importation. The skirt, which was
| fIared broadly at the bottom and very mar
| row at the top, was Of pale pink pcmPadour
| brocadc, with a delicate blue ribbon design
| garIanding loosely all Overland looping about
the stems of the bouquets The bodice was
| of Killed white nIOuSSelinc de sole drawn
trinity down at the waist and cut square at
the neck. back ana front; the top of the
Z sleeves which were balloon shaped and OF
bIurSatin, alone kept it on theshoulders.
For the rest there were breast knots Of
red roses mixed with loops Of black velvet,
and belt and long streaners OF the same,
the belt girdIed low in front to give the
waist long effect.
THIS gown had a great deal Of distinction
in spite of its harIequine tendencies
AN EFFECTIVE TRIMMING
Black ribbon velvet. il may be useful te
know here, Is much used on light evening
, and house gowns II gives a strong balance
TO pale tones, and is almost universally be-
coming
ON the OTgandie and Swiss gowns, always
charming for the evening, and that are now
being made with high silk Innings into home
dinner frOCkS for autumn and winter, IL IS
especially effective The velvet is used "a
a belt and sash and in corSIge knots. or else
it runs over the bodice in braces from the
belt or is laid in long lines down the skirt,
the ends perhaps fastened down with great
spider bows. Where the neck is the little
square already talked OF, the velvet is ex-
tremcly effective when outlining it com,
pletcly.
House gowns for afternoon wear are
being much made n striped and figured
cEallies aud in plain and dotted barege.
Trimmings of these lean also much toward
black velvet, though coIored silk and satin
is also used for revers and big collars,
which are frequently made further dTeSsy
with deep edsing oflace.
A stylish aud becoming toilet for after
noon tea, ana here Illustrated. is of white
baresc. pointed with black The model is
on the tea gown order, which continues TO
sash arc of mdUve silk; wide French lace
eadges the former aud the buttons OF the
edges the former aud the bottoms of the
bishop sleeves becomiuely
The blouse pictured. and which is suited
20 either morning or afternoon wear. Will
be found most bpcOmino In n very SIfCbt