New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-02
THE FASHIONS.
CHARMING SUMMER GOWNS OF SILK
COMBINATIONS OF COLOR.

| The fancy for dainty materials having body
| enough to lend themselves gracefully to haring
| effects. makes sheer grosgralns and
taffetas popular for gowns At least two or three
OF these dresses made in the most fetching French
styles. must be included In the ouht OF the up-to-
date woman.
There are certain French manufacturers VINO are
especially successful with these graceful gowns
which depend completely on the manner In winch
they are put together for their success summer
silk to be worthy OF Itself, must possess thousand
French coquetres OF make. The nome dressmaKer
may master a cotton gown. good tailor may cut
gown OF cloth. but It takes the hnesse OF the
| French dreasmakcr 10 achieve a gown OF sheer
SILK. Paqu.n usual. Is specially successful Win
| his dresses OF summer silk. one OF the most at
tractlye models imported this season Is sheer. pale
| willow green grosgrain. combined with fine bands
! OF satin In tho same shade. The wide. sweeping
skirt is severely plain. The round bodice Is draped
with black net. striped with fine ictted lines OF
black satin. The huge sleeves extend out squarey
from tho shoulders and nn.s';cd below the
| elbow by n twist Of rose and green satin ribbon \
| girdlc composed OF pa.c wlllow-grc"n ribbon OF
thrcc-lnch width. and another o. deep rose-pnk
passes around the waist and Is fastened In large
bow or choux OF ribbon the left side. The high
plain collar and the little pasiron below the collar
are OF open work Jet over willow green silk.
The Partisan firm OF Saubcr n Jeanne. com
parativcy new one, IL attracting attention by its
summer gowns OF silk \ sprlng-ke combination
Is pale applcgrccn and pcony-plnk The huge
circular skirt Haired TO the width NJ eight yards.
is OF changc1blc pink and green. II Is embroidered
| In large sprays. extending from the belt TO within
ten twelve inches Of the bottom OF the skirt
These sprays traced in steel beads In the color
OF the silk ard Gu, out 10 show the lining OF pale
green SILK beneath This c'u-out effect intro
duced last winter in OF cloth is repeated this
summer in silk. and Hight woods. 1t may be effect
lively introduced at the seams OF a skirt the raw
edges OF the cui-work pattern being turned IN ana
held down by gay beads. Insertions OF lace. es-
pccially OF yellow Valcnciennes. also outline the
seams OF the front breadth in gowns OF tanefa
silk which are then finished with nne-lnch
runie on tho bottom trimmed with Nalenciennes
lace and insertion. \ blouse bodice with a collar
cite Of null and lace and Valenciennes, and elbow
sleeves gathered into n band covered by douoio
frill OF half-inch Valenclcnnes.
Some OF the prcttlcst summer silks combined
with chiffon. which Is introduced IS full bonhant
front OF knife pleang. and repeated at the back In
close little puffs \ plain SILK in one OF the min
glcd shades OF the fancy silk OF the gown Is used
under tho chiffon. Thus silk OF rose and pale
green beneath tho pearl Chiffon, vest and back. and
the silk % the bodice falls over II in scalops. out
lined by gay little paillcttcs OF rosestee The fall
elbow sleeves OK this chnon-trlmmed bodice were
! finished by a thrce-lnch band OF kni.e-pea,ei
chiffon.
Paquin sends the most fascinating frocks OF
azure blue and white silk In fine stripes. with
coarct'es OF dead-whe linen trimmed with
yellow Valenccnncs and full elbow sleeves. This
somen hat dainty combination Is becoming to those
Gear compilations which can plain white
linen. the yellow tlnts OF null and soft batiste
being usually much more successful. II should be
remembered however that very few collarettes or
houTant fronts made OF one shade OF white
Tho pure white 81 fine shifting linen Is Invariably
trimmed with butter-colored valcnciennes. while
the crcamy-hucd mul, and ycl!owish ba,istes are
~
ne.di.work and the pearl-whtc OF satin ribbon.
Pearl-whlte satin probably the most trying mater
tai Is somewhat danty used by French dress
makers this summer rs grlles and sometimes as
collarct,es ~ fcru batiste The success OF
these n'tlc gowns depends much on the choice
- color and Partisan combination % tint and shade
as upon anything else. The pale wisteria puppies
are especially dainty this season and combine de-
Nghtfully with tho cream and pure-white batisies
and rnus,ins Pale sicn-grcen IL used with these
clear. lovely purple gowns under vests OF plea'ei
Chiffon and "a satin ribbon girdles In combination
with ribbons o, purple satin. The most popular
color. w,hou, doubt Is green which Is found In AL
the delicate Units % spring. in the pale green OF
tho willow the yellow green ~ tho apple lea' the
clear blush gr, 81 the locust. and the deep blue
green ~ tho hummlng-brds breast All these
colors except the last. used in combination
with pinks. the purpah. carnaton and YER
bena p!nks. vel as with clear wsteria purple
The r,vortc relief on gowns OF green is black. and
few dresses are more effective than n locust-green
gown u sheer grOsgrain trimmed with tny
rufilrs % black thread lac" In the narrow"st widths
The darker shades o. blue green coors - be
shunne,l Picturesque IN themselves. they are sill
tho most unbccomns OF colors and 10 not bear
iuxiapostion with nosh tinis The new shades on
the rose order are the verhena reds. tone shading
into pale peach color. the carnaiion pink inc color
OF the familiar grass pinks OF our spring gardens
and the bright rOs~at. hawthorne ,nis. The new
blues azure. srayish. cornno""r blue; ana r"c-
~ ffF flfs THN 10
celan. All these colors ar" popular IN sumner
silks As In millinery 'ouch o. gfe ,h a ~ , The
colors except IN" blues when deep emerald nue.;
such as Is founI IN ,h' PanJH" 81 ,ovod The
combination ot 'olge'-n"-noi blue ara deliGa,e
rrsedi green t. used ia som" of ne summer SINS
Youthful colors that especially becoming 10
The Dresden Inquired summer grosgf1in'. strewn
with Tiny flowers In strips tiny patterns. make
m ,ctlve gowns with tiny INNINGS 81 back 'hi"an
lac. and With collars an. girdes OF black velvet
or OF piece velvet with a decoration % Dresden
buttons OF white porcelain painted With roses and
;nirodmced In ,hesc dresses Bright emerali-grcen
ve.ye, Is somrtin,s g,el for the natto" eSs liz
gowns: but the tendency in these dresses Is 10 90
away with the SOFT stock collar and substitute
band OF plcatcd chiffon. Of null or lace or 81 Satn
ribbon folded and tcl In a square butterfly DOW
The SOFT India silks which make such dclchtfly
cool dresses. are sold At such low prices mat
dresses and making them up in 'Ae simplest pos
slbe way for morning wear very Eood !uSnn,y
si 70 so cents a yard In twenty fournch widths;
These silks Of oriental MAKE lhougn f,alpr m,
ow price Is the result 81 failures OF various az
goods houses. which have hpwn tH,,m upon hn ara
no longer a specially fashionable material my
are made with plain sorcd rklrs picuss mn,on
sleeves broad round collars and turned-back cuns
OF op"n white n or sisd silks make charming
matinces ard saut-de-l!ts.