New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-01-20

one or the prettleSt Skrt InOltiS, WHICH -
appropriate for walking or skating costume mas
a taffeta silk uniersklrt. lined with horsehair to
the knees only, and faced with cloth on the upper
side. with four stripes Of the cloth running up TO
the waist correspond with the openings In the
overskirt which Is two inches shorter than the un-
are open to the waist. each piece being bordered
with narrow band OF FUR the edge OF the u'ueI-
skirt being finished In the same way
Many OF the smart women wearing very
high turned-over collars OF white duck or white
serge with their tailor-made costumes the severity
OF the lines being softened by the collar opening
both in front and at the back with DOW Oh each
side,
Large velvet colarettes covered with lace give
distinction 10 any bodice. These generally made
TO fl, smoothly on the shoulders extending in sort
Of squared cape over the sleeves. the front some
times ending in a pointed yoke or sometimes eX-
tending to the waist With pretty crush OF
hui as they can be with any dress.
Much admired the other day black silk
crepon gown with yellow ACCORDION -pleaied
chiffon waist and accordeon-pleatei wings o,
the chiffon extending over the large black puff
sleeves AMI graduated TO the waist The front of
the low cut bodice had a black yoke covered with
black Jet, and a graduated jet fringe over the chif-
fon Black gowns with colored bodlces and black
sleeves are I'm great favor Just now, ana they GER
taInly are both smart-lookIng and becoming An
other stylish frock has the sleeves and skirt OF
pale green boure,te and the bodice OF black chifon:
which instead Of being accordeon-pleate is draped
the ngre in folds hat go dagon1iy e aTpGss
with black tips. AN ermine collat ana peI' anu anu
long ends of black satin ribbon, which hang from
each tip with two loops as a heading. complete the
costume.
Among the novelties recently imported are ready
made accordeon-p.eated China silk skirts with
graduated pleats arranged 40 as to give very little
fulness over the ups
The rev figured chirons are lovely. nothing could
DO imagined that would look more airy ana fairy
like and. made up over silk and properly cut ana
trimmed. nothing more costly
The new brocaded ribbons marvels Of rich
ness and color. An opera cloak trimmed on either
side with a long end and loops Of this ribbon. which
costs from s. to $40 yard needs no other orna-
make Il effective
The small headdresses shown by the leading mil
liners for evening wear are quite fascinating AMI
some OF the designs are exceedingly odd Very
high agrettes of spun glass confined by uny
chou Of blue or pink black velvet and jcweilcd
ulns are very becoming and stylish \ large dragon
Nv lowering over a bit of green moss Is one odd
concclt; still prettier one Is "A small bunch OF
honeysuckies with five six little yellow butter
flies wired so that they appear to be huttering IN
the air above il. Another has tall white princeSse
feather between a couple OF narrow velvet bows
finished with n feather porlpon. These hlSh, erect
ornaments look very well, paced slightly at one
side on TOD OF the hair which should be drawn back
loosely from the forehead in waves, and arrlngei
very high.
Not nearly so pretty or becoming but also very
popular are the spreading headdresses with WING
or fanlikc arrangements on either side. one very
pecuilar-looking affair has wired and crumpled ran
bit.s ears of 4 vivid green velvet. standing up 10
the left and right OF jewelled centre and ospre!
algrette Standing straight out from the head are
a pair OF dragon wings o. iridesccnt gauze An
other which is quite startling tespec*N as f'ste
iewe.s are used has a spray Of diamonds on each
side OF white feather pompoh "i'h spuH-baSs
Speaking OF paste jewels. Soccty's rule on the
subject seems to be that you may wear them ac-
cordlng your means. but that there must be no
DISPLAY A rich woman. for instance. who prefers
for safetys sake to keep her pearls in safe de-
poslt vault may wear copies in imitation OF jewels.
4 few single strings OF modest Roman pearls are
considered allowable Tor every one me ne fa hay
deceive the elect. story ia told OF sarah
Bernhard who for some special occasion had
strings Of paste diamonds mingled with her own,
and wishing afterward TO separate the real from
the false could not tell them apart Then ,i1v sae
finally they actually had to break one diamond on
evE eyeers in 10 often make up necklaces
of Roman pearls With beautiful clasps OF real dia-
monds.
The modern additions 10 fashionable trousseau
are unhappiy for the pocket OF paterfamilias DOTH
numerous and costly. and should now include a tea
gown that costs as much II not more than stump
| tuous costume riding habit golf frocK ana Il
bicycle dress all OF which. to be correct must ne
| turned out hy the best and consequently the most
expensive OF taors. Appropriate shoes CATERS anu
boots which. when made ID order at 4 Soou p,iut,
are simply ruinous In price must accompany these
garments. Ten years ago even riding hnolt wouiu
! not have been considered "A necessary ADJUNCT put
I'm these DAYS OF open-air life. the taor supphes as
| many costumes as the drcssmaKer'
The walking boot OF the fashionable woman Is
considerably heavier than II was last season IL Is
| made of calfskin, with a more pointed toe than
| ever and with heavy. strong soles The somewhat
| masculine Gu: Of the shoe Is made even more EN-
| nhatic BY reducing the number OF buttons from ten
| Ia seven and even TO six. For women who have not
| VET become reconclled TO the heavy cafskin shoe.
| a walking shoe OF very heavy Kid Is prepared, with
| an extra heavy sole and seven buttons.
| The evening slipper now matches the dress. This
has become the rule rather than the exception. The
slipper has a high heel and low vamp and Is deco
rated with tiny buckle OF steel rhinestones the
| more brilliant Strass diamonds. few dancing
| slippers are made with fiat heels, and. after the
| fashion OF gentlemen's pumps, OF patent leather.
Fashionable dealers In slippers say that the party
| shoe or carriage boot which ia warm, loose shoe
TO slip over the dancing slipper, Is used this
season than ever before They made of black and
! tan.co,ored bucksku. and are usually lined With