The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-25

when the wheeler cescends. Some of the
new skirts are made in one, with knicker-
bockers: these, however, appear to have
but scant advantages. There is one point
about the bicycling dress which must not
be ignored. 1t is essential to its success
that it should be made by good tailor.
The skirts are quite as difficult to cut as
the ridIng-habit skirt, and the coats I'M
ouestionably require the master hand of
man in their pressing as well as In their
shane. The woman who hesitates is lost to
all sense of her sartorial duties. Redfern
has lust made for an Eastern belle a good
bicycling dress, with a Norfolk jacket and
a large square collar and moderate skirt.
A more fanciful style of coat recently
seen was cut like mans coat, double
breasted, terminating at the waist in
front and having full back made so as to
cover the saddle. This is very smart when
worn by a thin woman.
Another qualification for governess is
that she must ride wheel so as to chape-
ron her charges. OF course grooms are now
regularly seen in Eastern parks; indeed
society now declines to move without its
bicycles and bicycling is to be feature of
all the country house parties this autumn.
Black wells with white dots are rivals of
the white ones with black dots with BIZ
cyclists.
There is whisper from Paris that passe-
menterie and embroidery on cloth are to be
seen on both bodice and skirt of our new
costumes, which will give the death blow
to the blouse, and for autumn We know
that our bodices will be tight-6tting and
of the same material as our skirts, but the
blouse will continue to be worn at the the
alter IN light silks, chiefly Louis XVI
stripes or in lightweight velvet printed
with cashmere design, W bich is a novelty.
With the exception of touch of color in
our hats and bonnets there will be little
color worn in the streets and black hats
will be in demand, but great change in
shape is announced. Some authorities say
hats and bonnets are to be of smaller
dimensions and the hair is to be worn
either pompadour or much curled.
Furs made into capes, collarettes or boas
are the craze at the fashionable French
watering-pIaces. They are not necessity
but are considered the height of elegance.
Many of the skirts of our muslin and
organdy gowns have to be befrilled, and
very appropriately SO, this season, but
a
our winter gowns from being so disfgured,
as the plain full skirt as we now have it is
thing of beauty, but it will not be tempered
with.
Let me give word of advice: Get what
you absolutely need each season of the
best material possible, and when made up
wear your clothes well and at the proper
time, whether simple or elegant, if you
would rank among fashionable women.
Butter-color gloves have taken the place
of the white, lavender and tan. Long
gloves continue in great demand to wear
with our elbow sleeves, which are on every
dressy gown.
Along with my Paris fashion notes comes
the information that Madame Patti has
made a great success in her theater of
pantomime opera by George Boyer. l i'm
agine Patti is going to sing once more in
Paris at the Renaissance, and will perhaps
appear in Boyer's new work. MARcELLA.