Eagle River Democrat. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1893-1896, 1895-07-08
BOTHERED BY SLEEVES.
NeW-Fangled Puffed Affairs {
Stun bling-Block to the
Remodeier.

most saving institution, but it has had
it's day. Not that the modern woman
is not as convinced of the wisdom of
saving odds and ends of Wornout cos
tunes as her mother or her grandmother,
but she no longer struggles with the bag
| idea as the one and the only means of
boarding remnants of past fneries. VINO
| that has not dragged to the light from
| its hiding place III some dark closet the
heavy cotton bag stuffed with bundles
| that she might find the needed fabric
| known to be slowed away in its depths!
| And who does not remember fumbllng
over each and every tied up parcel only
to find that particular one at the very
| bottom of all and only discovered after
| tumbling the contents on to the hoor
with an angry twitch, which made new
drawing string necessary?
In these laborsaving days the piece
| bag is some old bureau or chest of draw
| ers, which has gradually with the pros
perity of the family been moved from
| floor to floor and has at last been rele-
gated to the obscurity of the store-room
Here in plain sight, within easy reach,
| are arranged the remnants of wool, silk
and lace, each drawer perhaps marked
with its speciality, boon indeed at dress
| making times, when remodeling and
| making over are important parts of the
programme.
'Can dresses be made over this season
according to the new and somewhat
extreme fashions?" is one of the Ques-
| tons asked by the economical woman as
she prepares for the summer wardrobe.
There's left over summer silk in ex-
| cellent condition; there's a roll of sew
| eral yards Of new cloth which ought to
| help freshen last seasons pretty suit,
and there's guipure enough in that old
| faded out Bingham to serve again this
Gil fn 1-o nd mi
| these different materials are veXing
problems to the girl with small income
or the mother who has already spent
the most of her allowance on her daugh-
| tiers. The fashions of today are extrav-
agant, with their costly fabrics and
their rich decorations; to argue to the
contrary would be useless; but among
the attendant compensations is the fact
that the present modes do lend them
selves easily to the process Of making
over, as the phrase goes, especially as
far as the bodice is concerned. There
is more difficulty about the skirt, but
even this is successfully widened by
panels and van dykes of different goods.
The costume marked by its modish
| simplicity is made over one, the result
of combining remnants of golden brown
MORE with a last seasons tan cloth suit
hardly up to date. The MORE panels
and facingS to coat reVerS are an i'm
provement The vest and folded collar
are of new material, light brown chiffon
being selected for the purpose instead
of the fitted silk vest of last summer
The buttons and simulated cord button
holes are also this seasons additions. It
is smart suit and one the most fas-
tidious may wear with satisfaction on
the street.
Summer silks may be repeatedly made
over, even to the last few whole breadths,
which may be used with thin goods for
fancy waist. The remodeled gown shown
will be pretty all summer either indoors
or out. The heavy guipure used for
yoke and shoulder frills is the only new
feature, while the plain silk frills have
been altered to answer present needs.
Olive green is the predominant color,
which is made much more effective by
the ecru lace. The dress is even prettier
than it was in its pristine freshness.
The greatest stumbling block of all in
making over is the fashionable sleeves,
says the Brooklyn Eagle. Sleeves I'M
like the dress are allowable, but some
times 1t does not seem as IT it would pay
to buy as much new goods as a modish
pair of sleeves require. A common way
out of the difficulty is to arrange full
puff to the elbow. Again collars, berthas
and epaulettes are attempted. often with
excellent results Good taste demands
that cloth waists shall be less ornate
than Sllken ones, hence the former are
less easily rejuvenated. There are so
many instances. however, where a silk
waist is worn with a cloth skirt that it
is often advisable to dispense with the
old waist rather than to spend a cent
making it over. 1t all depends, of course,
on it's appearance and style. The pos
SCISSOR of beige colored diagonal adj
mires model of similar color to her
own fitted above the busts with jacket
pieces of white cheviot bordered with
IL. .41I 49,
edges. The model suggests at once how
she may make very smart dress of her
plain diagonal by the purchase of yard
or so of white cheviot
Any number of materials may be COM
bined in the fancy waist. The piece bag
of the dressy woman may contain just the
different fabrics for a very smart-lookin2
bodice without the purchase of a single
new article. Silk, lace velvet and chiffon
are all in favor. Florentine guipure is
decidedly popular for collars epaulettes
and yokes. Bits of Dresden silk or pom,
ing waist trimmings. The waist must be
dainty and effective. Stand-up loops,
shoulder straps and corselets are various
styles of decoration. Black guipure,
pearl gray null and darker gray figured
velvet are prettily combined in the illus,
tration. The square yoke of heavy
guipure continued across the sleeves in
square bretelles. The blouse portion is
of the null which droops gracefully over
the girdle-like bodice outlined on both
edges with fancy gimp. The waist is an
excellent model for suggesting the use OF
odds and ends. White guipure. bright
crepe de chine and plain or figured silk
could be arranged in the same chic style.
Butterfly capes are all the rage, and for,
tunately the clever amateurs can also
manage this small coquettisb summer
wrap. A passe. gown of green or tan
broadcloth may blossom out into as jaunty
a cape as one could desire. with no evil
dence of past service. A pattern is Sc
lected and a new cape is the result. AS
the cape may be lined with the same
shade of silk or with contrasting. the
lining is not an important item. Then
there are the fancy collars, usually of
velvet, which Dame Fashion has made
such feature of spring toilets, and which
may cost as much or as little as one
pIeases. One of black velvet lined with
colored surah, trimmed with jet bands
and finished at throat with an inner frill
of nice lace is easily accomplished from
remnants of velvet or silk which would
be too small for any other purpose.
81 oil fhn cT1YIY