The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-10-20
WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York, Oct 19-The irts thing that
strikes the sumemr girl when she comes
back to the city with her lungs full Of
country air and her trunk full Of Worth
dresses is the fact that she is out Of date.
Down at the seashore her gowns were
in the tip of style, and being accustomed
to that state of things, it strikes her
rather unpleasantly to return to her ma
tive heath late in October and find that
all the city girls have come. out in their
fall clothes, and that she has nothing 10
wear but some limp, summary things that
look particularly shabby beside the other
girls new gowns.
But this is a state of affairs that can
not last long, for the summer girl is pre-
eminently "a maiden up to date" what
ever else she may plead guilty to.
Il havn't seen the shops yet" 1 heard
one say, Il have sent mamma to get me
something-anything that won't look like
one dilapidated swallow trying to make
a summer over again.
And down at the shops is mamma,
along with other mammas and daugh-
tiers who came along early enough to get
first chance at the fall fittings and the
obdurate modiste.
The new goods do not offer very tempt
ing opportunities for tailor-made gowns.
There are not many of those smooth ma
terials that are the tailor's JOY. The bright
color almost hidden beneath a mass of
black loops or dots is the favorite. Some
Of the prettiest are blues and greens, but
many prefer red for autumn.
There is smooth goods which Is fieck-
ed with bright color in such a way as to
look rough. Brown is the ground work
and the fecks are of red or blue or
fThpgn ma al 10 Fra liz
with fur edgings for street wear
The very heavy rough materials make
good knock-about capes and are also used
for children's coats. Golf capes are still
worn for stormy weather. But it is the
evening wrap that fills ones heart with
regrets for pennies spent on those stupid
summer resorts where there weren [
enough men to keep the girls in soda
water TO be sure, pennies are long
way on from the price of such a cape,
but those despised coins would soon buy
gloves, and glove money is a generous
contribution toward an autumn bonnet
and so on up the scale.
The cape of this season will not be so
easily copied by amateurs. 1t takes more
yards of material for one thing, and the
amateur hesitates to cut into so much
goods at the risk of spelling it all. Last
spring the clever girl who wanted a cape,
took a piece of stiff paper, cut it into a
shape as near a cape as she could, tried
It on, then trimmed 1t here and there until
it suited her and cut her satin by 1t. This
season it will not be so easy. The autumn
capes has so many godetS that 1t is hard
to count them. Some of them are box pleat-
ed at the neck and stitch down an inch or
two.
All are deliberately trimmed. The capes
for day wear are of tan cloth or some kind
of rough goods. The cloth is very soft
and beautiful, but it is the trimming that
gives it character.
A tan cape trimmed in the most extrav-
agant manner with fur was a wonder to
the privileged ones who saw it. 1t came
well below the hips and was of course
very full. The lining was soft shade of
pink figured with pale green. Around the
lower edge Of the lining was a ruftie like
those worn on the inside of skirts to pro-
tect them. and this, by the way. is a very
good idea, for it is on the edge that the
lining wears out first. But 1t was not the
lining that excited our admiration, though
that was very beautiful 1t was the five
marten skins that were set on whole,
each with his head nestled up against the
Medici collar-two in front, two behind
and one on each shoulder. The fur was
stone marten and was a light creamy
brown, suggestive of Russian sable which
harmomzed beautifully with the color of
the cape. Each one of them alone would
have made very respectable boa, yet the
whole cape was marked only $50. Obi
times are better and there is nobody who
realizes it so quickly as the woman who
shops.
An evening cape of Dresden silk-most
evening capes are Of this material now
had lining of pale green. There was an
upper cape, scalioped on the shoulders,
with fiat bow of silk edged with fur on
each. The high Medici collar had a soft
fluffy fiutting of green mousseline de sole
for lining against the face-for all col
lars are face collars nowadays, and have
nothing to do with the neck
CapeS of elderly people are long, and
usually of black velvet with applique jet
trimmings. A pretty style that is almost
youthful is to get a bow of wide black
ribbon on each shoulder, letting the loops
droop half way down the cape
was introduced last spring but did not
gain general favor, is coming in again.
1t is made of some twenty to twenty-five
ostrich plumes, some pointing up to form
a Medici collar, others falling down around
the shoulders.
The ostrich boa is necessary accessory
to even the least pretentious costumes.
The newest variety has a shaped neck
piece with long ends hanging down the
front. Some have flowers at the throat.
Others are collars with long ends of ac-
Gordon pleated black chiffon.
Furs are still somewhat in the back
ground, but they are ready to come out
at the first note of warning from the
weather prophet, and the capes are as
voluminous as those which are made Of
woven materials.
ured $50 inches around its lower edge,
which being reduced (or magnified) means
nearly twenty-one feet or seven yards
as large as a good-sized skirt. This is
wicked waste of fur, especially when
that fur is seal.
Capes, however, are not to hold unrival-
season as they did last.
The new coats are quite as tempting
as any of the Haunting mantles of silk or
seal. The newest as well as the most
fetching style is the box coat. Those for
early autumn are open, which
has border of Persian lamb
around the edges. Inc winter
styles are of coure shut-double breast
ed buttoning with a fly, and trimmed
with four immense buttons set on at the
corners, one each side of the neck, and
one on each side at the bottom of the
coat. Some have no visible buttons and
some are single breasted and have Svo
of the cookie buttons, one at the neck
and one at the waist.
All have the "mandoline" or melon
sleeve.
The thing that impresses the returned
summer girl most forcibly is the preva-
trnce of plaids. There are plaid silk
waists, plaid vest fronts, plaid neckties
plaid wool dresses and plaid stockings
Whole plaid suits are very fashionable a
pretty princess gown with a short far
ing cape makes handsome street gown
for autumn.
Among the minor accessories which are
most persistent in popular favor, the sail
or collar might be cited. All summer il
has tapped and fiared on the shoulders of
pretty girls, a warning in its unwrinkled
expanse against too great Familiarity ON
the part of dear girl friends or others