The morning times., 1895-12-02


AT the portrait exhibition there is n dress
| upon Mrs. kingdom, mother OF Mrs. George
Gould, that is a marvel in fabric. 1t is de
signed to plump out too slender figure
and this is managed by choosing a dark
velvet and conceaiing Its exact outlines
with draperies OF lace. The figure is made
full and loses none OF its gracefulness.
Mrs. Calvin S. Brtce, a very plump woman
is Just as skifuily treated, though in a
different way. For her, Caroius Duran dis
carded that everlasting dTapery in which he
envelopS everybody, even the Duchess OF
Marlborough, and painted her in a snug
gown, buttoned down the back. 1t is a
close Princess shape, without waist line,
and makes a woman who is too big appear
only of ordinary size. The two daughters,
who stand clasping the neck of their mother
look OF q great deaila rger than she, though,
of course, girlish in face.
For une OF the lessons the lecturer had a
case of the jacquard clnth, with tiny fig
ures. sent to the dra wing room Of the woman
in whose house he lectured: As everything
for the street is dotted or striped or fig
ured," said he, we might as well take
the bull By the horns at once and settle
all question uf adaptabi!ity TO all figures
i'll these fabrics"
Choosing a large, tall woman, whose dis
may and disgu st had been directed toward
he proceeded to fit her out with something
becoming.
You see, have been a window draper"
laughed he, as lie carried the gouds round
and round the figure, making puffs and
folds, panels, and even r:iff!es without cut
ting the goods, "and | am now dressing a
lay figure for the Window. and / am going
TO have il a pretty one, too.
Il am sorry, said he ruefully, reaching
for a dutted material, that | cannot do
my draping this time with inexpensive
cloth. l must choose this jacquard at 81
a yard. 1t is just the thing for a very
large woman, because its dots appear ard
disappear. Here, Jacques" to the little
helper standing by, take hold of this braid
and walk twice around the figure
Jacques made two revolutions With the
braid. which was n very broad, very deep
opeE-wuTk silk and floss combination
and drew the material in at the waist. Two
more revolutions outlined q yoke. Another
took the braid around the foot of the skirt,
n nd so the work of trimming went on. The
dotted goods treated thus made costume
that looked like a pattern dress" ST. in
tricate and beautiful was it in plan and
design.
During the course of the lessons the lee
turer made the sweeping statement that
light goods could be worn by any one, and
that little block guOds-so very modish
now-were designed for large women.
DRESSING MISS GOULD.
The little black and white blocks that
are making women look like modified
checker boards, ur as If dressed in golf
'tockinette, are made mostly of heavy satin.
They are Tor sleeves. as they give the large
ook To the arms and shoulders. This is
iesired by thin women, because it makes |
hem look larger. and by large women for |
he same reason. The larger u woman looks |
Iround the shoulders the smaller will be |
Ter appearance around the waist. Helen |
iould, though a little woman, wears this |
lind OF material, and is a member Of the |
iuild-:n fact, she is one uf the originators. J
In one OF the lectures, a woman more !
PRACTICAL than the others asked the ques- /
ion of how TO try on the fabrics before |
as one must buy and have |
he goods cut off before sending home. /
This appeared to be the poser upon |
which the Guild would founder and go |
lowD, but it was quickly explained away |
)y woman in whose mind the idea be- |
gan: II have long made a practice"
aid she, ''of having the pieces of goods |
sent to the fitting room. and there / try |
hem on as though putting on a dress. |
rhe shopSeepers are glad to do this on |
account of the satisfaction they get from |
selling goods this way"
The fabric class has decided that dress |
goods are cheaper this year than last, be- |
,ause the very expensive materials rarely |
,ome in such figured and patterned STYLES, !
md consequently it costs less to get n /
'tylish dress. But the women of the fabric |
lass also agree that it is as much in the |
selection of proper and becoming goods rs |
N what You pay for them, and that the |
styles of the present season can be made |
,ither very pretty or very disagreeable. |