davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call., 1895-02-24
GRANDMoTHER,s CLOAK.

Cut it and rip it each daintiest thread
Many year since the needle was sped,
Held by the fingers now nerveless and cold
Pressing it, plating it, fold by fold
smooth ii out softly, in this latter day,
Fashion 1t deity in quaint modern way,
Ienderly touch its soft surface of brown,
Graudmother's cloak is her granddaughter gown.
See am dressed with rose in my hair
Grandmother dear do you know, do you care?
Out OF the fair realms of silence and shade
Can you look down at the gown have made?
Can you remember when you too, were voung
Setting the fashions the earth folks among9
Little you dreamed that your warm cloak of brown
y ears would turn into a granddaughter gown.
grandmother grandmother, when You were young,
Came to you ever, with hattering tongue
one who bent low with a SMILE to compare
Sort damaSk cheeks to the rose in your hair
NSweeter than roses in Paradise grown?''
DID he go off with the rose as his own?
waiting stand with smile and frown
Doubtlng and glad, in my sweet modish gown
What were the dearest of words ever said?
We're the skies bright on the day you were wed?
Dld all your fair loving dreams come to pass
ERE you lay down under green growing grass?
happy and faithful and tender and truel
May time be as gentle to as to YOU
ANA all homely virtues and graces come down
Like sweet olden scents, for the granddaughter
gown. 90- "
The morning call., 1895-02-24
A Woman,s Reason

Scene-A small tearoom la Japonaise
Storks Chamber over the walls, and the
trleze seems to be continuous crane with
old rose legs and purple bill. The air is
filled with the sharp scent of incense rising
from tiny brazier burning before the
huge brass joss on the mantel. The hostess
awaits her guests in kimono of many
shades, her level eyebrows have a distinct
slant, and her small feet slip half out of a
pair OF sandals at every motion. A Jan
anese servant holds back the rattlino
curtain and lady enters.
The lady-O, Amy, is that you?
The hostess (smiling) NO, dear; it's the
ghost OF my great-grandmother.
The lady-O, see. I've done one OF
those unnecessary questions, haven'tI?
The hostess Qaughing)-Ye but don't
know that you need be proud of it!
The lady Cooking about)-What time is
it, anyway? ] suppose they don't have
clocks in Japan. I'm Very early?
The hostess-A little Nc one is ikeIv
to come for ten minutes. I got mvseif
into these things in time to have sort of
dress rehearsal with the tea things. Hold
ing up her square sleeves.) Do saw some
thing funny, so that can laugh in This
it's big enough to hold a perfect roar.
The lady (suddenly)-To was drivin q
with her again yesterday. Eyervbodv saw S
them. Isn't it perfectly infuriating?
The hostess (gently)-It is very hard for
you. Do you mind it very much, dear?
The lady (petulantly mind it? Well,
l should think | did! Married only six
The morning call., 1895-02-24
SOME FREAKS
OF FASHION.

Worth is .cutting some of his visiting
gowns en- princesse, frequently with velvet
trains. One instance of his art was
beautiful royal blue velvet train, with a
tabller formed of lace squares, one point
overlapping the other. The bodice was
fastened at the waist by ruff1es of narrow
velvet ribbon; on each side of these rutt1es
were two large hlagree silver buttons. The
large velvet sleeves had similar buttons on
the cuffs. l have Just seen lovely ball
dress for young matron; it is of pale
green silk adorned with pink silk en-
broidery, pink satin and white lace. Simu
lated underskirt of pink satin mounted on
bell-shaped slip of thin silk and skirt of
green silk around the hem again appears
the beautiful embroidery.
An elegant promenade costume may be
made of steel blue crepon. The skirt of
the Paqu1n style; the corsage should have
a culrasse and collet of embroidery; round
bolero of crepOn; the sleeves wide on top;
deep cuffs of embroidery.
An evening costume for young lady,
lately designed in Paris, was of blue crepon
OF the diamond pattern. The haring skirt
had godets in the back, in fronta fiat panel
of velvet outlined by two coquilles of guip-
ure over Turquoise blue satin, belt of vel
vet; blouse corsage of guipure over mar
cisse SATIN narcisse flowers around the
square and neck; balloon sleeves, having
gulpure epaulettes.
Candle and light shades of every descrip-
ton are to be found in answer to the great
demand for unusually artistic decorations.
They are so dainty and well finished, be-
sides being always artistic. There is an
extremely pretty shade to be seen now,
made of fiuted silk and trellis work, orna-
mented with smilax and butterflies; an
other has fiat top, which is quite new;
then there is the Harlequin of fantastic
red shade in silk and lace. which would
throw warm and most effective glow
upon any room, however dull; and num-
berless dainty little candle shades of
feathery ightness which it is almost i'm
possible to describe. Among the latter
The morning call., 1895-02-24
Y my

bluet satin with velvet rosettes. In the
center of each appears bachelors button.
Hoods for children are very dainty COM
blnations of silk embroidery and ribbon.
One is ornamented with twisted piece OF
velvet around the front, exactly in the
middle of which is a large choux of velvet
from which arise large wing-like loops of
the velvet.
Some tailor-made costumes are to have
short capes of the same material for spring
wear.
Modified jackets on the Eton order are
predicted for spring and summer wear.
The new Worth redingote costume will
be favorite for street and house wear.
Speaking of waists the taffeta silk will
still be much used for practical purpose.
They are obtainable in the most daintily
| beautiful effects and coloringS in Dresden
pattern.
Mohair and lustrous goods will be in
fashion. Broadcloths for street wear, also
shepherd goods, Scotch cheviots, etc.
Mosaic suiting, new and rather pretty
effect, is being imported.
1t is also announced that most costumes
will show combination OF two materials,
II not two cOlors and sometimes of both.
Tailor-made gowns should never be
trimmed with silk or velvet to make them
more dressy, as that ruins the style of such
costumes.
OF cotton goods new fabrics and designs
are made One of the prettiest is two
toned organdy. 1t appears in stripes and
wavy white figured effects, the ground col
ors producing the two-toned effects, and is
very reasonable in price.
Dress ginghams will be shown in stripe
and plaid effects.
Sateens, with the same dark grounds but
with prettier designs than usual in stripes
and figures, will sell well.
The colors for the coming season will be
magenta, pinks, yellowish shades of green,
goldenbrown, fuchsia dahlia, while cerise
and bluet will occasionally be seen.
Reseda, anemone, verveine are among
the new shades for evening wear.
In the French hats thus far shown the
dark and neutral shades are relieved by the
most artistic combinations by bright col
ors. One hat Just received by leading
milliner is in an entirely new shape and of
fancy straw, which really has to be seen to
be fully appreciated; but 1 can tell you
this much, that the straw is of an exquis-
lite golden-brown shade four handsome
black feathers are used to trim it and stand
up quite straight, while just touch of a
new shade of pink and knot or so of vel
vet combine to make delightfully."- Frenchy
hat. MARCELLA.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

however, very few surpass style called
the rustic lantern, which is very original,
OF Inc shades composed of imitation foil
age among which some delicately shaded
FTgln1an creeper leaves are pre-eminently
beautiful. These throw a sheeny light
ana are both charming and inexpensive
Mirolr velvet in exquisite shades of cerise
much used for the short pulled sleeves and
trimmings of dinner ana ball gowns.
Ihese velvets are sometimes embroidered
with tiny level beads or gold and let SPAN
gles. White taffeta or faille striped with
DOCK satin, the stripes narrow and far
apart, is, when combined with black vel
vet and lace, charming evening ma
terial.
Chiffon gauffre is more frequently used
20 combine with other materials than to
form an entire gown. 1t is crinkled with
WaVy INES or bias stripes, and makes eff
IectlVe sleeves and front pieces to silk or
satin gowns.
Baby-carriage pillows may be prettily
covered by using the little white or colored
embroidered silk handkerchiefs. Two of
Ihese STITCHED together, with a frill of lace
between, make charming pillowcover.
stylish toque just from Paris is of
lphella mirror velvet with brim of black
straw having jet cabochons three inches
deep around its border. In front an
algrette colonel with pompoir of velvet,
Boas, collars and ruchings have made us
almost completely abandon bonnet
strings.
at recent tea young debutante wore
lovely toilette of vieux rouge crepon de
soie with peplum corsage of cream
colored mousseline de sole slightly cut
square at the neck. A Vandyke shaped
coliet OF crepon falling over the sleeves,
and OF which the points were outlined
with a pearl embroidery, was draped in
a tasteful gown lately designed is of iron
gray, bengaline, with jacket corsage en-
proldered with marguerites of different
shades of silk, mixed with pearl and
spangles.
:, A new style in bows recently created in
Paris IS called the windmill bow"
a pretty collar can be easily made of
The morning call., 1895-02-24

the ruff1es with lace or the finest of en-
broidery. These dresses are delightfully."-
cool and pretty. ii you want something
to cover your neck with have pretty hand
kerchlefs of the muslin, or whatever your
dress is, made with a ruffle, which should
also be edged with lace or embroidery
Have the handkerchief ample in size. so
that you can knot it in front and have the
long ends hang below the waist line. Wear
with these dresses ribbons around the
waist, either with q silver buckle or tie a
large bow. Naturally, these gowns are es-
peciaHy becoming to those who have pretty
arms and necks.
1 have just read of a platinum anti
corset, which is to be a substitute for cor
sets. l have not seen one yet. so mean to
make inquiries. A corset called 1.-THE
Symphisis, cut low back and front. is to
be had in silk coutille, unlined, and is said
10 be very cool and comfortable and is a
new style.
Then have Just read about charming
capOte lately imported, which is of butter
colored satin straw. slightly poked in
front and showing a lining of fine black
lace, large bow of maize MORE ribbon
kept IN place by pointed Jet pins, a tuft
OF mauyc roses and some rose leaves cum
nlngly introduced behind, and the result
Is, as you can imagine, stylish hat or
bonnet, for its rank is difficult to deter
mine.
Vogue gives good pice of advice when
1t tells of pretty dinner bodice suitable
for much service with variety of skirts
ana OF a color becoming to all complex
ions. 1t is one glowing currant red.
without sharpness. 1t should be decollete,
with variety of trimmings in sets, to put
on and off, according to the skirt worn.
a band OF Jet with fringed fronts over,th;
bust defines the outline of the neck welle
glrdIe and armbands of jet; sleeves to
elbow en- ballon. A set of gold or silver
trimmings or lace drapery viii turn out a
new gown for each change, and if the
bodice is made by good modiste it will
always be smart-looking one
MARCELIA
The morning call., 1895-02-24

months, and to have ones husband going
about with girl like that! An impossible
creature, who isn't even in ones own set
and who wears gowns that are simply
chastity
The hostess-But perhaps, if you were
more considerable mean if you didn't go
out so much with Will Jarvis, who was
once well known to be rather epris-
The lady (hastily)-Oh, that's nothing.
Tom isn't bit jealous. Neither am [,
but he might have picked out somebody
know.
The hostess seriously DO you and Tom
really care for one another?
The lady (staring)-Of course not. But
we don't quarrel-at least, not in public.
Why (hippantly), he likes that girl better
than he does me-
The hOSteSS-And Will Jarvis thinks it
is very poor taste, eh.
The lady Cooking down Perhaps.
The hostess-How can you endure life
like this, so full of bitterness and danger
to yourself and others? Why don't YOU
and Tom part, and at least live honestly ?
The lady-You mean divorce, of course.
I've thought of that, of course, but you see
1 can't-at least Just yet.
The hostess-Ah, then you do care for
Tom little, after all? Be patient, and
I'm sure it will come out
The lady Qaughing)-What a sentiment
talist you are! Do you want to know the
reason? You know Kitty Hunter-one of
my bridesmaids? On the way down the
aisle in the church I overheard her wager
a dozen pairs or gloves that l wouldn't live
with Tom a year Spiteful thing! So,
you see, I've got to.
The hostess Cooking at her guest curl
othea Lummis in Kate Fields Washing
ton
The morning call., 1895-02-24
Welsh Rarebit.

Welsh rarebit is another thing that is
much in vogue now that chatting dishes
are getting to be commonly used among
plain people, and to the lovers of "Brown
October ale" there is nothing more tooth
some than the toast and cheese with their
use about half pound of good English
cheese, getting the toast ready before
lighting your chafing-dish lamp. Into
about cup of ale cut up the cheese in
small shavings and add just pinch of
mustard. Keep stirring with table
spoon until thoroughly melted, then pour
over the toast and serve two slices OF toast
and glass of ale to each person. Care
must be taken to watch the moment the
cheese is done, or it will be stringy and I'M
manageable. For those who DO not drink
ale milk can be substituted EQUALLY well.
The morning call., 1895-02-24
English Lace Industry.

In Northamptonshire, Bedfordshire and
Buckinghamshire the English pillow-lace
making has been revived under Lady
Abercorn and the Countess of Bucking-
ham, with the assistance of Mrs. Bruce
Clarke, Mrs. Forrest and other ladies'
Narrow lagos were sent to the Chicago
Exhibition; since then wider laces have
been made In Northamptonshire from
valuable antique patterns. At Paulers-
pury, the district under Countess Spencer
a lace school has been established for some
years. This village produced lace formerly
for Catherine of Aragon. In the south OF
England, Lady Trevelyan's workers at
Beer copy exquisite old Italian lace. In
The morning call., 1895-02-24
STAINS ON VARIOUS ARTICLES.
Chalk for Silverware-Old Paint, Rust,
Efc

Chalk for Silyerware-Old Paint, Rust,
Etc.
To prepare chalk for cleaning silverware
Crush till perfectly smooth, and mix with
clear rain water in proportion of quarter
of pound to a quart of water. Stir well
and let stand two minutes, directs the
Housekeeper. Pour slowly into another
vessel, leaving the coarse matter at the
bottom. Let this stand till it has settled,
and then pour off the water. The remain
ing chalk is the prepared chalk you want,
and it is ready for use when dry.
Kerosene is the best thing for removing
rust from iron or steel, unless it is very
deep. Then it must be taken off by scour-
ing with fine emery powder.
To solder tortoise shell: Fit the pieces
together exactly, and wrap with a piece of
paper. Place them between hot pincers,
but not hot enough to burn the shell. APP
ply pressure and allow them to cool.
a professional painter and paper hanger
told me that to repair broken wall it was
best not to use whiting with size, as it
raises above the surface of the walls when
dry. | have often noticed the wall showed
plainly where the break was He told me
to use plaster OF paris and whiting, as it
hardens rapidly and may be colored or
To remove old paint: Add four pounds
of sal-soda and half pound of lime to two
gallons of water and apply while hot. 1t
will soon loosen the paint.
To clean engravings: Cover a smooth
board the size of a picture with clean white
paper, lay the engraving on this and
dampen on both sides with a sponge or
soft cloth wet in the following solution:
One-half pint of water, two ounces of
chloride of lime and one-half ounce of
oXalic acid. This will make it beautiful
white.
Castor oil is the best thing with which to
soften leather.
Wash an oilcloth with flannel wet with
warm water, wiping dry and rubbing
little skim milk over.
Whiten yellow linen by boiling half an
hour in one pound of fine soap melted in
one gallon Of milk. Then wash in suds;
then in two cold waters with a little blue
ing
The morning call., 1895-02-24
HELPS FOR HOUSEWIVES.
For Use on Various Occasions and for
Many Purposes.


| The convalescent who has to depend
largely on beef tea for food and drink
grows very tired of its flavor I would
suggest using different lavors, such as bay
leaf, bit of mace, Glove or a sprinkle of
celery salt
The old-fashioned but very effectual way
OF toughening glass or china consists of
placing the articles to be toughened in a
large kettle or copper (of course folding
| cloths, etc., round the things to keep them
from knocking together) in enough cold
water to cover them entirely; bring this
| water to a boil, let it boil for some time
then lift the pan off the fire and do not
touch its contents till the water is perfectly
cold.
According to the Medical Record castor
oil has not failed in any case to remove
warts when applied once day for two to
six weeks.
If children must nibble at crackers be-
tween meals, as seems necessary in some
| families, the best cracker to provide for
| the purpose is one made of whole wheat
The cracker habit, which includes the many
sweet and rich varieties, is by no means a
| good one for youthful digestion.
Raw oysters are served, according to the
latest fancy. in broad, quaint little goblets.
cestershire sauce and accompanied with
wafer-like sandwiches of brown bread and
butter.
A chair is made to sit in and not to look
at Get comfort first and then make it
look as well as it can, and still be in keep
ing with the house and the rest of the
room. 1t is always worth while to make
or buy that which is substantial and
lasting.
The practice of putting dishes in the oven
to warm them for the table is bad one.
The dry heat causes the enamel to crack in
time, and then the grease soon penetrates
them, to their utter ruination- Put the
dishes to be heated, and all the tableware
nearly, should be heated in winter, includ-
ing silver knives and forks, in a dishpan,
and pour boiling water over them. Let
them stand and steam until ready to serve
the meal, then wipe with a clean, dry
towel.
A ham is greatly improved if, after being
boiled, it is wrapped in buttered paper and
baked for an hour.
If can of milk is placed near an open
vessel containing turpentine the smell of
turpentine is soon. communicated to the
milk. The same result occurs as regards
tobacco, paraffin, asafetida, camphor and
many other strong-smelling substances.
Milk should be kept at a distance from
every volatile substance, and milk which
has stood in sick chambers should never
be used.
Use a cloth to wash potatoes It is no
trouble to keep one for this purpose and it
will save hands and time.
All sweet dishes improve in flavor by
being kept COOL
Fish may be scaled more easily by first
dipping them in boiling water for a
minute.
Fresh meat beginning to sour will
sweeten if placed out of doors in the air
over night.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

Il pretty goWn for a young lady has a skirt
Of ivory-zibeline cloth, studded Nth cherry
c0lored acGters, coke boegs and belt Of cherry
cOlored getvet. Test and cuffs IN guipure
'cOrk outlined lcith gold; full sleeves IN plain
icory-cOlored cloth. Inside vest IN ipory Unite
pleated chiffon.
4 pretty tea-jacket can be made IN either
silk, satin or velget. The close fitting jacket
has fer seams, and IN front has a false lining
u1lder the accordion Ieated front, which is
here represented an spotted net that wears aceH,
bat may be replaced By any fancy transparent
material
The morning call., 1895-02-24

Of reirette crepon diansamt. Skirt gored,
tCith red geE0et ribbon on, each seam. Belt
haUing several rorcs of the veEuet ribbon
Blouse corsoge oith tight fitting coke, haging
segsral ro,gs Of the 0eyret ribbon, finishing IN
little rosettes. Steeues, aOide on top, tight fitting
betO0 etbOw, hare same trimmings. Draped
epaulettes Of lace.
Skirt Of soft eCoolen material, slightly full to
,caiSt; t,Uo rOUs of UelUet trim the 1ower part
Velvet bodice, gith puff Of material IN front,
and uetyet reUerS and collar. Full sleeve, aVith
cuff Of geEuet. Straw hat, auth veIvet and
feather trimming.
The morning call., 1895-02-24
A Georgia Scene.

Here is true picture of life in the rural
districts. An old lady from Rockdale,
with her children, went to Sunday school
in Covington. After school Brother Rosser
assisted in 'hitching her steer Buck, s" to
the wagon and, getting on the wrong
side" of the beast, it fired away and kicked
the breath out of the superintendent, who
groaned aloud. The old lady rushed to
his assistance and exclaimed:
"You ding fool, what did you git on
that side o. Buck fer? You mought er
knowed he'd er kicked the stuffin' out of
you. Don't you know that Buck amt
erquainted with town folks with store
clothes on?''
After that she hitched Buck to the wagon
without any help from Brother Rosser.-
Atlanta Constitution.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

A dainty home dress is made of godet skirt
IN peartgray gatered silk. The ,caist is of
leaf green crepon cloth, accordion pJeated;
reluet belt, acith 5o'o to correspond. Ivory-
colored null perforated in stars and dots, an
der adhicb Is placed pale-bIue SILK 1t form,
a fat yoke, NTH quadruple fan pleqtings and
triiis around the full eibo,o sieeues, which are
Of the green crepon.
4 Uelg attractive costume for t0oman with
a good figure has an Immensely ride skirt of
light freight Of cloth. The gaist Is of ueIcet
the only ornaments being the tlco large buttons
fn the bodice and the tUo at the uaiSt.
The morning call., 1895-02-24
Sailed Peanuts.

Sailed peanuts are an inexpensive and
good substitute for sailed almonds. They are
prepared by Smelling and putting in boiling
water, which will cause the red skins to
drop off. Then put in a pan and pour olive
oil or melted butter over them, sprinkle
well with fine table salt and put into a very
moderate oven for half an hour
The morning call., 1895-02-24

0fpeGrI gray cashmere. Skirt plated, qoith
long tabs Of green veluet on each side of the
front Drdped belt and fchw Of ve1uet. Pas
tror' Of cer1se silk. SleeUes, acide on top, tight
.tItt'ng betow elb0,O. Flaring epauIettes of
veluet.
0fpi''k satin, loid IN Dor plaits, with ,oide
collar edged NTH guipure, crossed IN front and
tea on one side aOith boaO Of ribbon Puff
sleeves, With fitting elbow pieces.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

Bucking at Great Missenden and
Lacy Green, the pure old Buckingham de-
signs are employed, which resemble Brus-
sells, Mechlin and Valenciennes. All these
English laces are now made with English
thread, which is far superior to the foreign
thread formerly employed. Large orders
have already been received through the
trade, which show this fascinating indus
try is meeting with the recognition it
deserves
The morning call., 1895-02-24
Yale'S
Skin
Food

Removes wrinkles and all
traces of age. It feeds
through the pores and builds
up the fatty membranes and
wasted tissues, nourishes
the shrive1ed and shrunken
skin, tones and invigorates
the nerves and muscles, en-
riches the impoverished
blood vessels, and supplies
youth and elasticity to the
action of the skin. It's per-
feet.
Beware of substitutes and
counterfeits. Yale's Origi-
nal Skin Food, price 81. so
and s.. At all drugstores.
MIME. Nj. YALE, Health and COM
plexion specialist, Yale Temple of Beauty.
146 State street, Chicago.
REDINGTON 81 CO., Wholesale Drup-
gists, San Francisco, are supplying tn.
Pacific Coast with all my remedies.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

Conn Of 'ohite satin and sapphire-blue vel-
net. Skirt of white SATIN outlined qCith mar
ten sable. The front IS adorned at either side
aoith beautiful embroidery outlined Oith mar
row far and finished at the bottom ap;th q
windnaU knot of blue gelret Corselet-bodice
OF wh1te satin crossed 'Cith bretedes of blue
retpet coming from chous of the same.
The morning call., 1895-02-24

checks, which are positively non-transfer-
able. When person wishes to leave the
theater before the close of the perform
ance, with the intention of returning, the
doorkeeper, with rubber stamp, imprints
on his palm the mark of the establish
ment.