Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1895-12-03
HOMEMAKERS COLUMN.
on topics Of interest to the hsdies
IL solicited Address: Editor HOMEMAKERs'
COLUMN. Oxford Democrat. Paris. Maine.
FASHION STRAWS.

FASHION STRAWS.
One Of the most popular fabrics for
early autumn street gowns Is alpaca or
mohair, and for winter house wear will
be much affected In light shades and
Dresden effects.
Plaids are worn by both young and
old, and are usually combined with plain
materials In the bodice, while checks
form one Of the smartest street costumes
Of the season.
Every well-dressed woman must count
a velvet coat or jacket In her wardrobe
this winter; or better still, an entire
velvet costume.
The newest coats are the short, jaunty
ones with square box fronts, the back
fitting closely to the waist, from where
1t ripples In numerous godets. Large
and usually very elaborate buttons are
used In sets of four or six.
Broad revers of fur, fur cuffs and col
lar. with muff to match, will trim up an
old cloth jacket amazingly, and many
think such a garment preferable, and
really more stylish than one Of fur.
The fur collars and capes, no less than
the velvet brocade and satin, are daz-
zlingly stylish, the shapes being more
extreme than ever. The cape, with yoke
fitting smoothly over the shoulders, and
the fullness starting from there, Is still
worn.
Fichus, throstlets and ruchings with
hanging ends are worn In every conceiv-
able material suitable for neck dressing,
black being the favorite color.
The full plated velvet capes, so hand
somely gotten up, are certainly pictur-
esque, but they lack the chic look OF the
velvet jackets, which trimmed with lace.
jet and fur, are positively regal in their
appearance.
Shawl costumes are revived for travel
ing, and are usually made Of old
shawls supposed 10 have served their
day. The jackets are made with tight,
seamless back and half loose fronts, with
velvet vest and buttons.
The elaborate dress trimmings OF
spapgles, jet, jeweled effects, feathers,
buttons and rich embroideries, show a
coming change in the style OF dress, and
plain bodice with fiat trimmings may
be expected TO take the place OF the
loose effects we have had In waists for
some time.
Instead OF the starched linen and stiff
ened white cambria collars worn during
the past season, we have the same shapes
in guipure and Irish point laces, as well
as Ia jst and spaugles, some OF them be-
ing shaped so as TO do duty as epaulets
and collars.
OF course, crepon Is worn, but shows
less crinkled surface than heretofore,
and when made OF black Is usually
frightened with colored velvet, steel or
irideseent effects in passementerie.
The crushed collars, so overdonc for
several seasons, are giving way 10 the
plain collar, trimmed with points Of lace
or any trimming desired, which are
placed on either side, almost meeting In
front. Sleeves trimmed 10 match, In the
shape Of pointed cuffs, make a pretty
finish.
Gowns, wraps and millinery for chill
dreu have reached degree OF luxury,
leaving nothing to be desired or new In
later years, jewelcd buttons, brocaded
silks and velvets with fur being not
unusual sight.
One Of the newest sleeves IL the "mar-
dolin," which Ia made OF four, five or
six cores, which are very narrow at the
hand, fitting smoothly at the elbow,
from which point they grow wider until
they reach the shoulder They are still
ened, and are fair representation OF the
musical instrument for which they are
named.
Millinery continues broad, and iiy-
away effect seems 10 be the thing desir-
ed but only fresh, round face must
dare these extremes. Close-ftting toques
and turbans are always In good taste,
and no amount OF new ideas places
them in back seat. The sailor shapes
with the short back are trimmed with
crinkled silk rosettes OF several shades,
which makes bright and becoming
head-gear. Jeweled ornaments are, II
possible. more used than ever, and an
audience at the theater Is made so at
tractiye with these glistening bits of
feminine finery as 10 share al equal at
tention with the play.
While nothing ever seems so appropri-
ate for bridal gown as white satin,
brocade faille Is talked OF as the fashion
able fabric for the brides OF the coming
season.
Braided effects on dress skirts are
stylish, and appear on some OF the new
importa,ions In deep bands OF conven-
tionalized fleur-de-lis and other pretty
designs.
Black gowns trimmed with a profu-
sion Of steel are not only pretty for sec
ond mourning, bnt are natty for drcssy
occasions for those in society's whirl.
Velvet suits for very small boys are
voted the thing for dressy occasions,
and the severe Vandyke collar OF linen
is worn with it, having turnover cuffs TO
match.
Belts and buckles claim prominent
place in milsdy's wardrobe for the au-
tumn and winter months. Silver aud
gilt ones are particularly swell, the very
latest ones made in scale effect. Rhine
stones almost as brilliant as diamonds
form buckles TO the belts for the velvet
costumes. sash ends in the back, held
by rosettes, buckles, or large jet orna-
ments, are worn With all sorts OF
gowns.
The pretiiest sleeves are those made
very full from the elbow To the shoulder,
and have the stifieniDg sewed on the
lining separate from the outside; then
the outside il gathered and placed an
inch above the stiflening, which allows
the fullness 10 hang more gracefully,
and does not make such heavy seam TO
sew.
Distinctly fashionable is the combina-
ton of black and white. notwithstanding
its favor OF so many seasons.