davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

to take place at Lenox, in June. The
| arrangements for this wedding are
worthy of mention, asst will be one of
| the most elaborate affairs of the kind
In the history of society.
Miss Sloane is the second of the
William H. Vanderbilt grandchildren
| to marry, and the whole Vanderbilt
clan are determined upon making 1t
/ an event. Merely on account of the
wedding, Cornelius Vanderbilt has
leased a house at Lenox, and George
Vanderbilt has leased another
LEASED TWO HOTELS.
W. D. Sloane the bride-elect's father,
has leased two complete hotels for the
wedding week for the comfort and &C
commodation of the guests who will
journey from New York and Newport
70 be present at the ceremony Of
course there will be special wedding
trains of palace cars from both cities,
and amusements are being planned
which will make carnival week out
of the affair.
I The designers of the large jeweIry
establishments have been busy for
some time originating dainty bits of
jewelry emblenatlc of the engaged
state and appropriate for the latest
style of gift. Quantity carved bouquet
holders in silver, fashioned with silver
hands which clasp and unclasp, and
-heart-shaped clasps in silver are two
sef the latest designs. Little Dresden
! bits showing the wedding or love
scenes of queer tiny folks, covered
with china lace, are also used.
b Those who have only a casual ac-
squaintance with the engaged people
Lmerely send bunch of violets or
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

and into which was introduced some
lace. Another, not, perhaps, quite so
elaborate, but quite as charming, was
of the same style of black silk crepon,
trimmed with ribbon rosettes with per-
pendicular bands reaching back and
fore from the numerous bows. This
ultra chic" wrap was lined with blush
rose pink.
Last but not least, 1 noticed the ex-
ceedingly quaint cape represented in
the first sketch, and feel confident that
my fair readers will agree with me
for smartness and originality it would
be difficult to surpass and therefore
merits the highest praise. The ma
terials used in this artistic arrange
ment are. for the under flare, a deep
tone of golden brown Venetian cloth.
while the oddly shaped collar and
revers are composed of lemon yellow
Duchesse satin, on each of which is
embroidered an elegant design in gold
Fedora braid. The butterfly bow at
the neck is removable and is made of
the finest cream lace. Leaving with
great reluctance the cape department
of this renowned firm OF ladies' tdilors.
BIT feeling tka- | music not omit
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

and heavy bangs that by no possibility
could ever be mistaken for the natural
growth. With the progress made along
other lines it follows naturally that
If the chiffon has to be helped out by
artificial aid it will not call for any
hideous adjunct such as formerly ag-
gravated the artistic eye.
In order to have a really elegantly
dressed head the general growth of
hair is insufficient, or, perhaps, again,
dampness or heat plays havoc. with
waves and curls not the gift of nature
consequently the women who are au
fait in all the details of their toilet HE
themselves to some reputable dealer
in hair goods and there buy large or
small pieces as need requires.
The illustrations given today show
in number one a little curling bit of
hair which can be stuck into the high
coil, giving the graceful effect of a
loose end in fluffy contrast to the more
precise arrangement beneath The
part being a feature of nearly every
up-to-date couture, of course there
must be some provision for it's an
pearance in any arrangement of coils
or waves, but the netting which used
to be such a palpable evidence of sup
Elemental treSSeS debarS many a wo-
man from thinking of such a STYLE.
even though she knows it to be, the
very height of the mode. Number two
has nicely circumvented this unpleas-
ant arrangement, and with the natural
hair parted and straight, the waves
are by means of pins run into the
coils of the hair at the back, and no
one would ever know that madame
had not naturally wavy hair, combed
in accordance with the latest mandate
/ of fashion.
A smooth. round lump at the back
of the head is seldom becoming, and
| to wave and curl the ends and side
| locks means infinite trouble, with not
| always satisfactory results. To OBJ
| tain very dressy couture we see in
number three how by the simple adj
| justment of the curved mass of curling
| locks the prim twist is converted into
a coquettish and elegant arrangement.
Number four has not the charm of
novelty which attaches itself to the
others, but is nevertheless interesting
as it shows what can be done by PIN
| ming on a soft, silky figure eight that
| it has taken no time to twist, and
| which the most searching eye could
never detect as not growing on the
head which it adornS. All of these
| goods are made on an entirely new
| principle. The root end of the hair is
| held in place by twisted wire, making
| the piece more durable without being
| bulky. At glance this can be seen
| to be a great improvement on the old
! style of manufacture.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
FASHION CHIT-CHAT.

Sash ribbons are wider than ever be-
fore.
again.
Jet collars are among the spring nov
elites
1t is a remarkable spring for beau
tiful ribbons.
Bridal trousseaux are not as extern
sive as they once were.
The newest chic coat in Paris is Of
blue-dyed chamois skin.
Newest things in boas are of narrow
ribbon looped on a foundation
Dove-colored cloth coats, with pulled
sleeves of the same shade of silk, are
new. Il
Women wear now the wide lace col
lars that used to be monopolized by.
infants
old-fashioned straw flats" trimmeiI
with falling lace, will be among sum
mer hats.
,sni
Black lace shoulder capes are among
those conspicuously exhibited at the
siops' pit
Bill
The ecru-colored batiste or fine grass
cloth is greatly used for collars and;
iiciiuS lhis sprinS- - nj
Prints this year come extra wide. the
width of the material usually serving
for the length of the skirt.
Any bodice is now put in style by
the addition Of a futed front of black
chiffon enriched by bands and lines of
jet. =
A scabbard for the fan is a new in
vention imported from Paris. 1t is to
bangle from the waist belt from a sill
yer chain.
All over open-work cottons are in
great demand They are inyaria bIv
spread over lining of contrasting color
to secure the popular perforated eff
feet. -
Stiff muslin ribbons are novelty.
They are made of mousseline de Sole
with a narrow satin edge, and are or.
namented with tiny branches of SILT.
embroidered flowers.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
BIG, BIG FLOWERS
Will This Year Be Used Upon
the Coarse-Piaited Straw
Hats.
LITTLE GIRL IN CHIFFON.
She Is Here in Her Glory, but
This Time q Compromise
Type.
The GOWNS OF A BRIDE.
Shoes Average a Quarter Of a
Size Larger Since the
Trilby Craze.
LITTLE GIRL IN CHIFFON.
tHE GOWNS OF A BRIDE.

NEW YORK, April Pit is the
"new woman on canvas"
She was a pretty girl and an art
student, 1 should say, by the careful
carelessness of her disordered locks
and her air of wise superiority of
comprehension-and she was gazing
at the portrait of a woman in a red
bodice, a woman without beauty, and
with cruel, sensual lips and a low
unlovely brow of the fleeing type OF
the faddists, who, in every time, are al
ways being called to order, and al
ways obey the call.
Artists" she says, ''have no orig
inality. They evolve the blue mazes
of meaningless lines, like that Twacht-
man yonder, only after the impress
sionists have written, and here is
the wanton, snaky beauty of Lilith
only because the fieshy school has
rhymed, and here are the symbolists
and allegory makers and-oh, see the
Napoleon hat; isn't it just too sweet;
isn't it dear?'
1t was the Delphic oracle turned
schoolgirl; the artist forgot in the
woman. For there, in truth, was the
Napoleon hat, perched piquant on
pretty face, framing it rather than
shading. Thus art, even, or shall we
say, art most of all, bows the knee
to the Baal of the Philistines, who are
clothed even as it wills.
THE NAPOLEON HAT.
I suppose the correct name for the
NAPOLEON hat is directoire, but nobody
will call it that. 1t is two cornered
and brimless. 1t flaps up in front to
show a face that presumably can bear
inspection, and flaps up behind to
spare room for the couture, and on
either side it comes down, making one
thing of Vendeunaire and the bridge
at Arcola and-this in a favorable
specimen l remember-it is of course,
bright yellow straw, tipped with tall,
black ostrich plumes, aigrette and vel
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

taking look at some of Mr.. Redfern's
latest productions in the way of tailor
suits, as at this establishment they
keep only model garments ready
made. The lovely gowns and suits 1
was shown were mostly just finished
orders fresh from the workrooms and
waiting their turn to be packed. Con-
spicuous among them all were many
bicycle suits composed of pretty shades
of homespuns. They are chosen for
their exceeding lightness of weight.
SmarteSt and most novel in it's en-
tire style the very attractive coat and
skirt costume shown In the second
sketch stood out from the others, of
which there were many, inviting adj
mira ton, especially for the pretty cut
sailor collar and revers composed of
light blue face cloth, on the edge of
which was suspicion of braiding. The
two lower ones were turned and
caught at the back by solid gold but
tons. The rest of the dress was of the
always mnch-patronized navy blue
serge. while the little silk shirt was of
brightly colored flowers on a cream
ground. The hat of navy straw was
ornamented with light blue ostrich
plumes and bows. Scattered In care
less profusion on the, plush settees of
the spacious salons are numbers of
silk and cotton waists of all kinds and
descriptions. reminding us how soon
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28


yards last year. They are now nine
and still growing. These enormous
truncated cones of skirts are stiffened
within by horschairss cloth of cruel
weight until they stand out as wide
as church door, The godet skirt
is all the favorite. Expansive and ex-
pensive is this raging out of skirt to
the penwiper proportion It will
reach its limit-but when ?-and then
we shall see, more reasonable pro-
portions.
spring ball dress: Roseleaf crepon,
with full, soft trimming of pink
chiffon, sleeves of graduated rows of
chiffon in plaits, sash of China crepe
falling nearly to the hem. With this
costume is worn an aigrette in the
hair, and, of course, shoes, fan and
other accessories in pink to match the
gown.
Another: Black and pink pekin in
stripes, with deep, white lace flounce,
-draped with ribbon andI tufts Of
flowers and a deep down-pour of lace
over the smallish sleeves. For small
sleeves-as we say now, though they'd
have looked big enough in 'S7-may be
worn with the ball costume.
Ihey are saying:
That new kind of crinoline, stiff
yet soft, is used in lining the SWEETEST
gowns. This seems like a contradic-
ton in terms.
That silk or satin, hand-painted,
with wreaths of flowers, is modish, but
costly for evening gowns
That the shoes sold average a quar-
ter size larger since Trilby became the
rage.
That spring wraps are a vexation
with the enormous sleeves, and really
capes are the only form of covering
that does not crush what it should
protect.
That the flowers used on summer
coarse-plaited straws will be big, big,
big and much in demand.
ELLEN OSBORN.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

for prolonged visit with relatives in
North Dakota.
The Home Missionary society gave
a shadow social at the home of Mrs
Chamberlain on Tuesday evening.
Miss Mary Walker, of Rochester. is
the guest of her cousin, Miss Dollle
J Adams.
The Junior league will give a Flag
drill on Thursday evening ia the
chapel.
Miss Rebecca Colyer entertained her
father from Morris the first of tho
week
Miss Mckay, of Minneapolis, was a
guest of Mrs. Ridgeway during the
week
Prof. l.. II. Lord. of Bird Island.
was the guest of Prof. Inness on Sun
| day.
Miss Mary Hannum, of Minneapolis.
Is the guest of Miss Pearl Benham.
Miss Eva Johnson entertained her
mother from Claybank on Tuesday.
Mrs. f. o. Parks. of Brainerd, is the
guest of her brother, o. c. Wright
! Mrs. Schafcr, of Owatonna, is the
guest of her daughter. Miss Vena.
Sam Kemerer entertained his father
| from Springfield during the week
| Mrs McCarter entertained Mr. Pow
! ers. of Buffalo. during the week
The Y. L. F. NJ will meet on
Thursday with Mrs Lindsay.
Mrs j. C. Cottier and daughters
, have returned from Tacoma.
Mrs. w. T. Rich entertained the
| Magazine club on Tuesday.
! The c. l.. s. C. will meet on Monday
J evening with Mrs Smith.
Miss Cora Montgomery has returned
! from visit in St Peter
Miss Marie Miller has gone to her
home In Cumberland. Wis.
! Mr.. and Mrs. Reed Johnson are in
Saltwater over Sunday.
The Mother will meet on Wednes-
| day with Mrs. Root.
The whist club met last evening with
Mrs. Alexander Adams.
Mr.. Fay. of Star Prairie, Wis, Is
| the guest of f. Ryder
Mrs. w. I. Stager is visiting her
mother in st. Cloud
w. L. Stager went during the week
to Colorado Springs.
| J. s. Hamilton, OF Spooner Wis, was
| the guest of his sister, Miss Bessie,
| during the week.
r. K. Evans spent part of the week
| at Granite Falls.
| Mrs A ]. Gillette is visiting in Mar
! quette. Mich.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
FASHIONS FRILLS.
Tartan silk parasols are displayed.

Tartan silk parasols are displayed.
Four out of five of the new silk
waists have box-plaited fronts.
Double-breasted travelling capes
when opened and thrown back reveal
revers of velvet or corded silk.
Among the many shades of green
that are in vogue this year the pale
silver tints and those in golden green
are most sought after.
For a brunette nothing more be-
coming could be imagined than a
rustic straw hat trimmed with pale
ecru silk, guipure lace and rich Jacque
roses.
A recently imported French grass
cloth is made over a China, rose silk,
the intense glowing hue of the lining
giving the entire gown roseate tint.
Ladies wrappers, negligees, dress
ing-sacques, understands and night
dresses are made of soft, lightweight
f1annelette of either French or domes-
tic manufacture
The new divided skirts are very at
tractive made of fine sheer lawn,
three yards around each division and
trimmed with numerous rows of lace
insertion and lace at the bottom.
Glossy silk crepons in pale tints,
dainty light taffetas with fancy flow
cred stripes and soft SatinS in pretty
Dresden patterns are the materials
most used for bridesmaids gowns.
Irish grass-cloth, in the natural ecru
color, was introduced by Paquin last
season, but failed to come into favor
in this country. This season it win
undoubtedly be a very popular ma,
terial. *, 81
insertions of lace or chiffon puff
ings are feature of the latest para.
soils, and these are put in towardothe
edge, so as not to interfere with dhe
purpose of protection, which is the, eX-
cuse for its existence.
Chiffon ruehes are made in all Vthe
dainty colors, and bid fair to usurp
the place of the feather boas for day
much more becoming and comfortable
to wear than the flowers.
:; Cycling costumes are growings.'in
Importance and beauty every day, and
English ladies' wear gowns of sofs'
light tweed, made with skirts which
reach to the top of the shoes, and
lined with bright-colored corded silks
The latest sailor hats are made of
silky-looking straw of various colors
and are trimmed with lace and flow
ers or ribbon, with a bunch of bios
SONS on either side White lace wells
tied in a bow in the back are worn
with these.
A special feature of new millinery
is that the blossoms and foliage used
for decoration are extremely large,
many of the huge leaves that extend
at right angles from the sides of, the
hat or bonnet being shaped like those
of the begonia.
Two immense gauZy wings Of tulle
lace or chiffon, covered with spangles
a rose spray and a huge dragon fly.
will make a love of bonnet that any
French milliner will not hesitate to
ask at least SIS for. consenting the
while with dubious countenance. TO
sell it at. "a sacrifice"
The most elegant wedding gowns are
as they have been for some time, made
OF white satin. but they follow the
lines of the latest modes carefully in
their full wide skirts measuring nine
yards around the bottom, with godet
plaits in the back and voluminous
elbow sleeves.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
HAMLINE.

The Home and Foreign Missionary
societies will hold joint meeting with
Mrs. Cowgirl cn Thursday.
Thomas Montgomery is In Duluth.
Will Dennis, of Window, is the guest
of Henry Young.
Mr.. Brisbine. of Burlington. To-, was
the guest of Mrs. E. j. Webb the first
of the week.
Mrs. N. A. Pribble spent part of the
week in Anoka.
Mrs. A. u. Drew leaves on Monday
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
MANY CYCLE SUITS.
They Are Conspicuous in the
Shops Of Taiiors Of New
York.
SHIRT WAISTS COMING In.
They Will Apparently Be as
Popular as Last
Year.
SHIRT WAISTS COMING IN
CREP0N is STILL THE RAGE
One of the Quaintest Capes
Going Seen at the Red
fern MaiSon.

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, April 25.-This is the
time for pretty, dainty and smart
clothes. Furs are laid carefully
aside to be replaced by elegant
tailor suits, composed of Scotch
tweeds, serges, mohair, homespuns
or Venetian cloths, all of these be-
ing favored materials. Pretty ere
pom gowns of dainty waists in Taf-
feta or Venetian silks can also be
worn under little light cape, such
as may be found at the Madison
Redfern in great variety, from the
rich and most elaborate cape to the
simple smart box cape. One and
all, you are sure to meet with these
dressy capes and tailor-made capes
striving for predominance for gen
eral favor. AS to the cloth capes,
they are singularly attractive, one
and ali, from the smart box cloth
wrap in black and choice shades of
fawn. The majority of these are
lined with shot Taffeta and peau
de sole silks in extremely delicate
tlntS. The more elaborate ones
are very frequently lined and faced
with ivory white satin, and in some
cases the collar and revers display
the most artistic designs of skillful
hand braiding. The most patronized
style of embroidery for the season
is in gold and silver cord on white
or cream grounds. French honey
comb silk crepon is a highly ia
vored material for the more dressy
capes, handsomely embroidered
with fine jet passementrie or pro-
fusely trimmed with lace and ribbons.
One particularly inviting was this last
named fabric, cut in the circular shape,
but made on yoke of dainty apple
green velvet with other touches of the
same color, and there arranged under
masses of black silk lace A full ruffle
of the velvet finished it at the neck.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
WEST SIDE.

Mr.. and Mrs. o. A. BeaI were ten
dered most delightful surprise" by
large number of their friends at
their home Friday evening. Dancing
and cards were the order of the even
ing.
The Eradelphians society will hold
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
metal is studded with jewels of great

metal is studded with jewels of great
value.
Mrs. Theodore Havemeyer, wife of
the sugar king, is another fashionable
woman who has done much to make
the fashion popular. Mrs. Havemeyer
spends more money, perhaps, than any
other woman in New York, and when
she sends a gift to any one it is GER
tain to be something well worth re-
ceiying.
The summer hat must match the cos
tune.
This Is a season of contrasting col
ors, but they are so skillfuliy blended
that the effect is generally very pleas
ing. Dark blue and mauve is a COM
binaticn in great favor.
The woman with a handsome throat
will do well to adopt the fashion of
having the top of her gown finished,
not with high collar, but with a
scrolled design of gold or jet.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
COUTURE OF FASHION.

Ii Is Aided by Artificial Lock sThat
Look Most Natural.
The idea of wearing false hair is re-
pugnant to most women, and that
phrase in other days implied all sorts
of gruesome possibilities, such as
great switches with stiff end centers.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
GIFTS FOR A DUCHESS.

! gagement of the Duchess of Marlbor-
ough to Lord William Beresford was
made short time ago, a number of en-
gagement gifts were at once sent her
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28
GIFTS FOR ENGAGED
Fashions Latest Move Dis
tinctly Favors It's Coo
ing Doves.
CONDUCIVE TO MATRIMONY
Odd Jewelry Designs SYM
bolical OF the Blissful
State.
In CHINA AND FLOWERS.
May the Banner Month Of the
Year for Making Engage
mentS.
IN CHINA AND FLOWERS.
Special Correspondence of the Globe

special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, April 25.-The en-
gagement season will soon be in full
blast and before the summer months
come around a large number of the
winters buds will have been gathered
In by the young men who have been
stamped as available by the watchful
mammas.
June is the great month for fash
lonabie weddings, and students of So
ciety's doings have noticed that when
the weddings are most numerous new
engagements are announced with
wonderful rapidity. May is always
the great engagement month, and
the reasons for this are many. The
young men and women see their mu-
tual friends stepping off into the
matrimonial arena and this is suffi-
Gent to cause many to go and do
likewise. There is a certain infection
about the preparations for a big we'd
ding Which seems to take hold of the
average fashionable young girl and
force her to take the preliminary step
~" al u d WSuulIlS VI her OWN.
Again, there is the old adage about
the springtime and the young mans
fancy turning to thoughts of love.
Whatever the cause may or may not
be, the fact remains that May is the
banner month of the year for en-
gagements, and with the arrival of
May will be the launching of a new
fashion-that of making engagement
gifts to the happy beings who have
just plighted their troths.
In desultory way the giving of en-
gagement presents has been going on
in New York for the past year, and
now the practice threatens to become
as general as the sending of wedding
gifts. Queen Victoria is the originator
of the engagement gift fashion, and it
has long been her custom TO send
some little token of her regard to all
her favorites when their engagements
bare announced.
MISS SLOANE'S LUCK
k, Miss Adele Vanderbilt Sloane has
/ been one of the first of the New York
girls to pleasantly realize the existence
of the new fashion. Her engagement
to the young son of James T. Burden
us of quite recent date, and the mar
riage is
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

we shall be needing these cool summer
details of apparel when the intense hui
mildly of the weather commences, and
even a light cape or jacket cannot be
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

roses. The great florists are trying to
work up appropriate bouquets, at she
same time avoiding anything bordering
upon. a set design, which is the par
Eticular horror Of the smart set.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

Irish grass-cloth, in the natural ecru
color, was introduced by Paquin last
season, but failed to come into favor
in this country. This season it viii
undoubtedly be a very popular ma,
terial. *. ~,
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

Glossy silk crepons in pale tints,
dainty light taffetas with fancy flow
cred stripes and soft satins in pretty
Dresden patterns are the materials
most used for bridesmaids gowns.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-04-28

The new divided skirts are very at
tractive made of fine sheer lawn.
three yards around each division, and
trimmed with numerous rows of lace
insertion and lace at the bottom.