The morning times., 1895-09-29

Everywhere tillage so presses upon the
wild life that Adam saw that fur grows
more and more expensive. 1t is almost
the one exception to the universal rule
of falling prices, and so 1 am sure it is
pleasant to know how one can make such
excellent use of very little of it as In
the handsome red cloth cape of diamond
patterns in black and braid, and the
wide collar of black miffet, which 1 have
been admiring. Or its companion gar
ment, long evening cloak OF dark hello
trope cloth, lined with lighter shade
and with silver brocade; with jet orna-
ments, a roll collar of sable and a narrow
strip of the same rich fur on the cuffs.
The coat OF seaiskin lends encourage
ment to the little women who wear Etou
and zouave shapes becomingiy, for there
will be a considerable run upon fur gar
ments in these cuts this autumn. Another
popular fur garment will be the cape, either
of fur entirely or of cloth with a fur col
lar, and q second, shorter cape overlapping
the longer one. Slim young women will
find short, luose-fronted sealskn coats
recommended to them, but in longer gar
ments both economy and the wish to avoid
crushing weight will point to combina-
tions of fur and cloth.
A pelsse of black satin merveilleux
is an example.
1t has Vatican folds IN the back, is lined
at the sides and in front with squirrel
lock. The square collar, like Puritan's
neck bands, only broader, the inner collar
coming close about the throat, and the
cuffs are lined with mink.
Sleeved or sleeveless, all fur garments
have to be made roomy enough at the
sides to shelter the big sleeves of the mo-
ment.
Furs are sometimes continued, as in
cane of black Persian lamb, with shoulder
cape edged with sable tails, and cascade
of these tails falling down the front, even
below the hem. A coat ard skirt costume
of Persian lamb with ermine collar lis
another combination. May l humbiy
venture the opinion that neither of these
is equal in good taste or beauty to the
better combinations of velvet, cloth or
satin with soft fur.
These are novelties in the use of fur:
Fur with an applique of velvet upon
pale satin, in Paisley or Dresden designs,
the satin shining beneath and betw cen the
velvet bars.
Fur over a silvery brocade with groups
of blurred china flowers in delicate,
faded colors
Fur with rich green Lyons velvet, lined
with old gold brocade. Fur in huge roll
ing collar, in a strip down the front on each
side, in the tails and paws used as trim
mings.
Fur with Jet, velvet, passementerie
and lace, all in one garment
Winter will be worth while that shows
us all these wonders of the street. Surely
never before was q material SO dfgnified
and rich as fur used in combinations with
such perishable, delicate fabrics.
Is ''silver-fox" offered? I have read
of a dealer who says that less than 200
silver foxes are taken in all the world
in a year, and that all these. practically,
go to Russia to be worn by princesses. A
single skin is worth $3.50 to $500, and a
fox is absurdly small. But dealers are en-
terprising. What viii they do if the fur
seal really becomes extinct? Can the char
acteristic fur Of this long suffering beast
be initiated? doubt II it has been yet and
for this reason seal is a pretty safe fur to
buy.
Green is q good rich color, not quar-
relsome against others, and key to
strong combinations. A chrysanthemum
green cloth walking dress I have seen,
which is a dream. The deep, square collar