Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-02-19
OIL D S AL E M
A Washingtonian's Impressions Of the
AiRoieat City.
The Second Settlement in America
and Some Of Its Interesting and
Historic ASSOCIATIONS.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence on The Evening SUR.
SALEM, Mass, February IA. 1895.
No one who is interested in the history
Of our country Should rass through New
England without visit to Salem, the birth
place of Nathaniel Hawthorne and the
home of the "ScarletILetter" 1t was here
the second settlement in America was
formed. After the landing of the Pilgrim
Fathers, in 1920, at Plymouth another little
band, with RED Cross Endicott at their
head, embarked, and were the next. to
break the soil in the new world, In 1876.
Looking around at the massive substan-
TALLY of the present city, and the evil
dences of wealth on every hand, it is diff
cult to recall the stern old forefathers who
set up their tents in the wilderness. but
the weary voyagers hailed even this refuge
with delight, and christened it Summer
Harbour later it became Salem, meaning
peace"
Most cities in New England are marked
by the march of progress, which obliterates
many landmarks; but Salem Is stepped In
history and bathed in antiquity. The streets
themselves were originally cow paths, and
follow the same irregular, dev1ating line.
Old-Time Houses.
One hundred years is counted nothing in
the age of a residence. An inhabitant was
telling me that when, a few years ago,
new row of tenements was put up as an eX-
pertinent, people focked to investigate the
new departure. Good rents are very scarce
and, consequently, expensive, as many of
these are houses handed down from genera
ton to genera ton. Some Of these ancient
landmarks open right on the street, and
seem whispering to the passer-by OF witches
and hobgoblins.
You find yourself looking to see some
stern-faced Puritan open the>latched door,
with its FURNISHED knocker. and frown on
the vanities of today. When you step
across the antique porch 1t seems as II you
left the nineteenth century behind you.
A relic hunter would be in a frenzy at
the multitude of heirlooms. Canopied bed
.;teads, spindle-legged tables, barred shut
ters, that recall stories of Indian warfare;
carved presses and dressers and sleepy
hollow chairs in which you lose yourself
entirely. Modern improvements creep In
slowly: they must walk side by side with
antiquity. Banquet lamps, elbow quaint
candelabra; furnaces are here burt they do
not relegate the huge fireplace with its
cozy andirons.
The First Church.
or course. the greatest curiosity of all is
the first church built in America, In 1894.
1t stands in a field back of the Essex In
stitute, and looks like old-fashioned
country school house. 1t measures about
10X12 feet, with window on each side that
opens on hinges, and is barred across with
1rOn The Key TO the outer door makes up
for the size of the dwelling. 1t is very
massive and makes one think of Blue
boards mysterious closet. Once inside, one
sees bare, white-plastered room, One-half
Of the space taken up by gallery, where
the dignitaries sat, according to wealth
and rank. Only section of a pew is left
to tell of the sufferings of many through
four-hour sermon. The communion table
is OF common pine wood. and a small bap-
tismal font hangs at the side, dimmed and
discolored by age.
In another corner stands the desk used
by Nathaniel Hawthorne while in the GUS
tom house.
Ex-Sccretrry EndfcOtt's Residence.
Another object of interest to a Wash
ingtonian is the residence of Mr.. Endicott.
our ex-Secretary of War, under Cleveland.
This is a square, three-storied, substantial
looking dwelling. SET, back from the street
in extensive sronndsb 1t is a fine specimen
of old-time mansion. and inside it is
finished most deliberately This piece of
property brought, its owner the neat lit
tie sum of $2I,WD when ii was sold lately
to q retired taweisr.s. Mr.. Endicott is
abroad now with his daughter, where he
intends to pass most of his time. Besides,
there are two other homes in the family
one at Danvers and the other in South
Salem. i.. a.t
Then there are the numerous haunts of
Hawthorne. If one is anxious to secure a
souvenir you can buy cups and saucers or
plates embellished with one of these ia
nous dwellings,, Or with the equally re-
nowned witch house, \. Is. P.