The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-04

firmly to even consider such proposition,
saying he did not like it as a recreation for
woman, and that besides he thought it
an undignified amusement for the wife of
a President of the United States. Yet we
read that the Duke and Duchess of York
and the Princess of Wales are ardent bicy-
clists and acquit themselves rem arkably
well.
There are coming early this fall some
very chic bicycle costumes from Paris and
we will all be anxious to see them, as the
leading fashion journals inform us that
the French woman'S costume when cycling
is fearfully and wonderfully made, but as
the expected suits are from very con-
sentative house they are sure to abound in
valuable suggestions.
Velvet collars are almost completely ban
ished now in favor of satin and Dresden rib
hons for they are so much more summary;
however, with the yoke collars OF white
lawn, lace trimmed, it is a Partisan novelty
to have neck-band of velvet and full ro-
settle on either side composed of very mar
row ribbon velvet.
If all women realized how much de-
ponds on the way they dress their neck
they would give the subject more consider
alton. Women with short necks frequently
insist or bundling up their Threats while
the girl with regular Du Maurier neck
seems to delight in nice little turned-down
collars. when she should wear high, soft
neck-bands in the daytime and in the
evening she will look all the better for
wearing one of the numerous dainty and
chic CONNECTIONS now to be had.
In the daytime a short-necked woman
should wear only a medium high color,
which must never be tight fit. In the
evening, if her neck and shoulders are
pretty, she can queen it over her long
necked sister and she should never be per-
suaded to wear any ornamentation ex-
cepting a string of pearls or necklace OF
solitaire diamonds.
feel as though had been very remiss
in not more frequently giving the latest
information about mourning, but in truth
there is little new to chronicle at present.
Dull Jet spangles are the newest trimmings
for very ''dressy' mourning. They are
purchased in large quantities and sewed
on chiffon or Brussels net in stripes or in
| fower-like clusters, such as good-sized
pansies or yiolets. These embroidered
pieces are used for fronts, being very taste
! full and displaying artistic specimens OF
needlework.
A feature of mourning dress worn by
widows only is the revival of the old style
turned-over collar and cuffs OF white
organdy, or any transparent snowy lawn,
which they wear on all occasions as long
as Grape is used. These are about two and
half inches wide, with an inch hem
turned up on the outside.
The use of the white crimped puff called
the widows ruche is now optional for the
old and young alike. Black crepon promised
at first to be much worn for mourning wear,
but the good taste OF using it was disputed
by many, it being so much worn by those
in colors. So now a special crepon is
manufactured in long deep crinkles, like
those of English Grape, and these have
been especially designed for the deepest
mourning. A silk warp is woven in the
wool but the dullness of tie wool is re-
tanned on the surface.
Some exceedingly pretty gowns were
worn at the Baldwin Theater on Monday.
/ noticed two or three engaged couples
who enjoyed an Ideal Husband" for, as
one of the brides-elect remarked to me, the
beautiful gowns worn on the stage
abounded in excellent suggestions for her
trousseau. Every woman [ have seen has
enthused over Isabel Irving's white satin
dress embroidered in colored sequins, with
its tasteful waist, but all were more than
enthusiastic when commenting on her
exquisite gown of purplish velvet, with it's
deep fichu of re al old Spanish point, now
SO highly priced and sought: The mourn
ing toilette of Lady Chiltren, with the
white and green collar was a model in its
way.
It is many day since such an opera
cloak has Leen seen as that worn by Mrs.
Cheveley. 1t is sumptuous garment. On
! the dark rich ground of heaviest silk were
embroidered deep pinkish salmon-colored
chrysanthemums, so true to nature that
one felt as though they could be gathered
from the surface. The finest of silk lined
this wrap, exactly matching the shade of
the flowers, and it appeared at the throat
as long scarf ends, and these were edged
with very choice deep lace, which also
formed ruffie across the shoulders. Such
cloak must be seen to be fully appreci-
ated, and the gown over which it was
worn could not be improved upon.
How we'll black serge always looks when
designed properly. 1t gives an air of dis
tinction and can be made into handsome
gowns. One worn here by resident of
the Western Addition is beauty, being
of the finest serge, lined throughout with
| pale blue satin.
Satin is ''the thing" for lining the jaunty
serge coats, and for those who have not
numerous gowns black satin is the best, as
numerous vests make many effective and
pretty changes possible. 1t is not an ex-
/ JraYaganCe 10 purchase the DeSS serge TO
be had as it never goes out of style.
A pretty and inexpensive gown of yellow
colored silk crepon, trimmed with black
lace, is being made for Jackson-street
belle. The skirt is immense, cut from
Paris model, and the low-cut bodice has a
vest of yellow silk, over which is draped
black lace, which also appears among the
puffs of the softly draped sleeves. Black
ribbon velvet encircles the waist, and forms
sprightly bows in the back and front of tie
waist. These give the finishing touches.
Madame Patti has quite recently worn
much-admired toilet of straw-colored satin,
covered with white tulle and studded
with spangles. nacres, pink, white, blue,
and forming garlands, with roses in re-
! lief made of the same spangles, the foot of
the skirt having thicker garland to
match. The low bodice was covered with
the spangled tulie, rather fulled with
! large butterfly of gold and nacres placed
in the front, balloon sleeves of tulle, rope
of roses encircling the neck and falling on
the sleeves and another going down the
| left side of the skirt.
! About three weeks from now what
|