The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-03-10
THE MODE IN SLEEVES.
sEAS0NABLE COMPROMISES or FAN
CY WAISTS.
THE Ever Popular Shirt Waist Still the Cor
rect Thing-Dainty Novelties Tor
Evening Wear.



Same that 10 u.s. and act accordingly. a
cIaneo az season is always the signal for
The fashionable world 10 begin 20 trcmblc
and this is especially true OF spring.
Everybody knows what mOustrOsiiy in the
line of clothes is % be imposed upon as
next.
Are the old ahsurlitics TO which W
have become accustomed TO be suppantcd
by new ones? That there viii be absurd
sites OF some Kind 10 would bc folly 10
doubt but just what character they will
assume IS a subject of the Eravcst am
Xicty 10 those whose business IL is 10
know. The object of greatest interest. of
course. is the sleeve as it has been our
stock absurdlty for many season, and II
would be very annoying not to have the
precious nuisance to find fault with. How
women used TO scold about the tight
sleeves tiat fashion pronounced correct
and then mcokly bow TO the
inevitable ana then order the seams
of their last pair taken In, so as to con-
form more closely to the dictates Of the
autocrat Now. however. we have grown
accustomed TO crying ont against the
cXtravaEanco Of the two yard sleeve, and
then ordering two yards extra for our
new gown for fear its dimensions will
increase before the summer is over.
There have been vague hints dropped
60 the effect that sleeves will grow
smaller this summer, but that is very un-
likely, because there's such q splendid
opportunity for VOluminous drapery in
the fine. flimsy material worn in summer.
The chiffon sleeves of untold yards which
are now only appropriate for evening
wear, may. bc copied in the dimitics, and
organizes for wear in the day time. The
heavier materials viii probably not be so
lavishly drapcd, as they would be un-
comfortably warm foT mild weather.
The majority of the people are
avoiding the issue, however so
Tar as new fashions are concerned.
ii IS too early 10 decide upon n style for
a whole dress, and a good many people
have hit upon compromise by filling in
the breach with fancy waists of various
descriptions. This necessitates one hand
some skirt, and black is the best color
10 choose because il can be worn with
anything. There are black sorges which
are quite cheap; black crepons which are
not cheap, but are very pretty and very
serviccable; black MORE poplin which is
expensive; and black satin, which is most
elegant of all but not serviCeablo. one
can make such y skirt eight yards wide
a the bottom, but that is not necessary.
II the skirt Is half that width and is
as II should he with the Eodet pleats in
tho back, It VIII serve very well for or
binary purposes and DE much less bulky
and unmaHagCabe. Properly stinoned
such a skirt may be worn anywhere ac-
with II. if the waist is an evening waist
then the skirt is an evening skirt. II
the posscssor of this versatile pctticOat !
happens To want a. church dress she |
wears her skirt with dark silk waist or
with bodice Of some bright color yelled !
with net or chiffon or moussclinc de sole |
The net Is little newer than chiffon, |
and is therefore preferable. 1t has ma |
tural stiffness Of its own, too. which |
makes II hold its place when ar |
ranged 10 stand out I'm countless pufis. |
Grcnadinc viii doubtless be used for sep |
arate waists TO wear to church. and these |
are much more durable than any of the |
there is great opportunity TO buy silks on |
the bargains counters now.
shirt waists are 10 be even more popu-
lar than last summer The newest style
has a double boxed plcat in front which
IS starChcd ass sun as q mans shirt |
bosom and ornamentcd with pretty studs.
These useful waists are not TO be limit [
cd in materials TO linens and chambrays, |
but Will be made of dimities and dotted
Swiss. one can thus be very cool and
yet wear dark colors, for the dotted
Swiss is obtainable IN almost any shade.
Organizes in dark shades viii also serve
the same purpose. so that we need not
fear the heat of next summer even If it |
Is as great it was last.
French nanncl5 and other soft materials
are being made up now into blouscs with
the double box pleat in front. which Is
10 characterize the new shirt waist. That |
line which the plcat follows in the blouse
front appears IN many OF the new waists.
The broad band OF ribbon which trims
so many fancy waists down the front is
only another variation of the same idea.
II amateur and home dressmallers could
thoroughly appreciate that difference |
in styles from one season TO the next is
a difference i'm general outlines more than
anything else. there would be a much bet
ter chance for originality, without the |
risk of missing the correct fashion. If |
the would-bc modesto VIII only remember |
tnat IN putting on her trimming she |
must make the shoulders appear long, |
the sleeves dropping ana wide at the
elbow, and that there must be some
sort OF up-and-down trimming on the |
waist she Will be much more successful
than il she sets about to copy exactly
something when she has seen somebody
else wear.
1t Is a comparatively simple matter 10
make an evening waist If one bears a
few Of these general principles in mind.
All one needs IS plenty Of trimming, and
even this may DC dispensed with II ones
sleeves are right.
A pretty waist for ordinary evening
wear is made Of Liberty satin, cut blouse
fashion and brought under q wide belt.
a wide lace collar IN four points made of
net jetted with, little black paillettes is
sewed into a high draped satin collar with
choux on each side TO the checks Such
waist IS suitable for almost any occasion. |
For more formal evening wear Is a
waist or embroidered mousseline de sole
IL is gathered 70 yoke Of lace made |
decollete In the front and high in the
back. The long effect is given 10 the
shoulder by means of the lace epaulette
and the hounce OF mousseline de sole over
each sleeve. A wide belt Of velvet is or
remented with four fancy buttons. The
whole should be made over ii tight lining
of silk
One yet more elaborate and suitable for
dancing Is also OF moussellne de sole. ac.
Gordon pleated. The decollete corsage is
defined with bands Of lace insertion and
strips OF the insertion run up ana down
on the waist, the whole being confined
by belt of satin ribbon. A stunning
bow OF satin is set on al one side just in
front Of the sleeve. There are no should