New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-07-14

of by gold lines. These are particularly effective
In blues and dull greens.
novelty Is black mohair cord running
through colored wool crepon The Oriental stripes
and cashmere designs. popular now In silks. APP
pear In the woods. then there ir an imitation OF
black caracule arranged In Irregular stripes on
fancy wool ground. and sometimes with dot OF
a bright color on the black pretty stun is
black mohair TO show large circles OF coli
ored wool There are countless designs. showing
this idea: II the stun Is two-thirds black. II
gives the effect OF pattern stamped on the plain
or fancy-colored ground. The very prcttiest pat
tern l has the black arranged 10 leave
conventlonalized leaf and flower design OF foliage
green.
There are n numbe, Of nohaIrs and woods mixed
with silk. and the double tissue goods generally
hal the upper surface Of thin silk I noted
odd plaid the ground OF which notified gray
and brown wool with broad stripe. made OF fire.
brightly colored hair lines OF mohair. running in
direction. Crossing II were stripes OF ecru silk
woven lightly to the surface OF the wool. Another
unique material has a loosely peacock blue
ground. with plain blue circles stamped on II.
Radiating lines In gold silk thread surround each
circle.
In plain coors the mohaii crepons very
pretty. Some show a wool ground. with mohaIr
cords running through 1t and tnv mohar dots be-
tween the cords This material seems to be very
firmly woven. and 1t is very pretty In blush gray.
dark blue crepon Is 10 show checker
board squares. and novelty In plain colors has
thin disks In II and should be made up over a col
ored foundation. There some new smooth
faced cloths for tailor made gowns and the pref
test show notified surfaces In soft fade coors.
There will be another attempt to introduce the
wool vevets which were hardly a last
The very pretty and they
being manufactured now wide wool stuffs
they will probably meet with a better reception
this In the silk department the greatest nov
IL FAM yelv Tbey will he
extensively used In the autumn for Jacket gowns.
and often with plain silk skirts. and made in the
Louis XVI fashion that Is being used now In bro
cades and plain satins. These beautiful stufs
properly made. can never become common. Most
OF the vevets show black ground. with cashmere
stripes or small Pompadour bouquets done In silk
The prettest OF these have the modest wholesale
price Of s. ward here In Paris. Then there
exquisite flower patterns a white velvet ground
Some OF these have not come from the mandatory
vet and only saw The beautiful hand-painted de-
signs
The taffeta silk will not reign alone this year. for
satin will be very popular. both black and colors
With the new stuffs under ones eyes, and
knowledge OF what has been and is being worn. II
IL not impossible to prophesy regarding the au-
tumn styles: but the humorists valuable Injunction
not to prophesy unless you know should be well
considered in this connection. Dame Fashion Is
certainly the tickle OF all fair ladies' and may
rown on many OF the beautiful things prepared for
her approval: for BY Dame Fashion I mean what
the feminine word decides to accept. The Paris
couturere although she Is still pre-einent In her
line Is not the autocrat she In the days OF
Worth; and II Is not enough that she says
"simon says thumbs up for all to meekiy obey
She must prove to us that they look better up and
that we have worn them down long enough; and II
we don't like them up may compromise on
slant Just as the slightly stinened skirt did away
with the hoopskrt scare last year.
Undoubtedly the dressmakers will display trimmed
skirts next season; whether they Will be accepted or
not time alone can tell. very prominent dress
maker whom l approached for information on this
subject said. who speaks with authority, that
they would not-"unless." she continued, skirts
decrease In size. Our patrons complain now Of the
weight Of their gowns. and do not believe they
will care TO increase It,"
The extreme godet skirt was very well in carriage
or house gowns. but Its appearance In promenade
costumes and travelling suits. and even on board
yacht. should have been promptly frowned upon.
The tailors have failed us shamefuly In this re-
| spect, but perhaps their defence would be that
their clientele might have otherwise left them
and they deemed II wiser to drift with the cur
rent
There is another wool that the dressmakers
are using now for handsome travelling gowns 1t 10
very light. thin stun. Of loosely woven mshair
The strands very thick. and shed the dust like
a coarse canvas. A charming costume Ia built Of
this In a light brown The skirt In untrimmed, and
each side the goods are arranged In a nat side
plait about FIVE inches deep. These side plaits APP
pear q number Of the latest wool gowns In add-
tion TO the side and back godets. The bodice Of
this gown has jacket back. which v cut OF It the