The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-02-18


 Twelfth century, while the buildings
 on the further side occupy the site oi
 the ancient wall. The Grapen is the
 chief business street in the city and is
 filled with attractive shops, and crowds
 finger before the beautiful array of
 goods in the windows. The Kohl
 markt" is another popular street, and
 from these two streets come those pret-
 ty goods so attractive to the ladies;
 such as hats, gowns of marvellous beau
 ty, finery and other necessary articles
 so important to the comfort of the la
 dies.
 The Vienna ladies do attire them-
 selves beautifully, and the fashions of
 Vienna vie with those of Paris. Even
 the women of the common classes in l Vienna are far better attired from their pretty hats to their dainty boots than the upper classes in Northern Germany. Those of your readers who have visited | Vienna will confirm this. I must con- | fess, however, that there is a decided lack of beauty in the Vienna ladies' | dress sleeves; their immense size and ponderosity suggest to me the enor-
 nous trunk of the great elephant in the geological gardens. As l walked daily | through the Graben and noted the | throng of all sorts and all conditions of the people who go to make up a great l city's population, I used to contrast it's | busy appearance with it's state in the olden days of six hundred years ago. | Then In the place of the present sur roundings of houses, shops, churches, and many people, there was a beauti- | full moat filed with running water and l grassy slopes stretching up to the walls
 of the burg beyond; men at arms were stationed here and there on the walls and flags floated from the towers of the castle which drowned like giant above. Those were good old days, and the common people were far happier then than now. Let us step further back into antiquity and in our imagina- tion call up the scenes which this very Graben even now suggests, for no doubt it was originally excavated by those old world conquerors, the Romans, who in the year 14 built here their fortress ''Vindibonia," the historic predecessor of the burg itself. The noble Emperor Marcus Aurelius died here, doubtless in the very fortress in the year 180, and this spot has been filled with historic interest for well nigh 1000 years. The moat still survives as pretty street crowded with peaceful people pursuing peaceful occupations. Which goes to prove that war itself shall cease and the golden age of perfect peace possess the round globe itself. There are many historic churches in Vienna, principally in the old quarter of the city. The Nal tese church, Church of St. Anna, Church of St. Barbara, the Greek church, the Church of the Minoritas; the latter church was built In the Fourteenth century, it contains the mosaic copy of the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinei, twenty-nine feet by fifteen feet | executed by order of Napoleon l., at a | cost of 400, ,000 f1orins.
 Then there are many other churches | which will repay visit. By the way, | writing of churches, I win mention a | fact which is surprising, namely, the | paucity of churches in Germany All | though Protestant Germany Is the home of Luther the great city of Berlin has very few churches. The Protestant churches in that city are in ratio of one church to every 10000 Protestants; the Romanists have one church for every 10000 Romanists. From TAO to 184e not one Protestant church was built in Berlin, from 1S4O to 1870 only three were built, 1. e. from TAO to 1870 Q30 years) there were but three Protestant churches built in Berlin, while the popu- lation increased from 90,000 In TAO to l, 100000 in 1870. At present there are nearly 2,O00, GOO inhabitants. During the past ten years I think five churches have been erected. If the Protestant in Berlin should suddenly some Sunday morning take 1t into their heads to go to church instead of going out in the field, there would real ly be be no churches to go to. Very few Germans go to church, ergo, why build churches to remain empty? Ergo again, why call Germany while the great mass of Germans are of no religious persuasion wha tsoever. Even here in Dresden with a population of 300,000 there are but twelve churches. Germany is rapidly in the matter of religion and with scarcely any churches to at tend the people are drifting idly upon the turbid waters of Rationalism. If hey will not have Professionalism, then introduce the style of the church at Rome, which I witnessed some months lgo in Italy. Religious retrogression seems so rapid here that unless some great change takes place for the better Germany must no longer be called Pro- estant, but Goddess should be written lpon her brow. If the state religion n Germany was of the Roman Catholic ,rder, there would certainly be tenn oles of God throughout the whole land, he people would be visited relgiously tnd every child in the empire would be gathered into the Sa'bboth school. But | find I have wandered far away from Vienna. Vienna possesses very many palaces and in many of these are fine | ,icture galleries to which the public Ire admitted on certain days of each week., but I have no time to describe hese in detail The collection of paint ngs in the palaces of Counts Harrack, 'chinlborn Czerin, and Liechtenstein re verp fine and contain many gems of Tt. Numerous excursions can be made rom Vienna. Steanlboats ply daily on he "beautiful blu Danube" as far as .inz, and this is favorite and delight ~SA~N>>-