The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-07-14
within an inch of the lapels themselves.

within an inch of the lapels themselves.
The collar is notched. The trousers are
full, the dimensions being eighteen and a
half inches at the knee and sixteen and
half inches at the bottom that is, if you
are going to have them cut as the SWEETEST
New York tailor cuts them. They are
moderately wide at the hips and fall in as
straight lines as possible to the ankle, be-
ing we'll curved over the instep, and have
little spring.
The following London rule has been
adopted everywhere concerning the trous-
ers. They must show a very faint crease
not one that looks as though creased by
the tailor, but one that seems the natural
result of folding.
Many young men abroad noted for al
ways being correctly attired and leaders OF
fashion have adopted cloth collars instead
OF velvet ones for evening coats.
The waistcoats when black are single
breasted with three buttons and are al
most oval in shape. In white they may be
either single or double breasted.
With evening coats white waistcoats are
almost universally worn, but are never
seen with Tuxedo or dress jackets.
slngle-breasted waistcoats are mos.
popular with frock coats, and are of fancy
stripped or checked flannel. These are
worn when hunting or riding.
The Inverness cape coat and top hat are
worn with the evening suit.
Black satin ties are seen with dress
jackets and white ones with evening
coats. The lawn ties are not so popular as
those of linen, because linen does not rum
pie and can be more easily tied. Black
silk ties are proper with the Tuxedo when
IN mourning. Golfers are purchasing ties
of tartans and plaids, but bow OF colored
ribbon or silk is more appropriate for
a lounge suit, with colored shirt, than the
Ascot four-in-hand.
The club tie, with wide ends tied in a
careless bow, is popular, especially in blue
foulard with red figures-not dots, mind
you. The Toreador, which is a narrow
four-in-hand with long knot, is in excel
lent taste, and the narrow four-in-hand is
seen in all colors. Figured satin will be in
vogue all summer.
The plain white cotton cape glove is an
innovation which reached New York from
London a few weeks ago. They promise
to be in great demand for wear with after
noon dress.
For evening wear white kids with white
stitching are correct.
For driving and other sports smooth
heavy kid gloves in black and tan are
shown.
If you wear spats they should be chosen
Win regard TO the costume anu must De
either gray, drab or black.
The latest hose shown are in fancy red
and brown Isle thread and silk. They are
for morning and afternoon use; for even
ing always black silk
Men wear too much jewelry out here.
The watch should be carried on chain in
inside trousers pocket; watch chains, seals
and charms of all kinds are vulgar. Sleeve
buttons of dull or polished gold with
monogram are correct for general use and
white enamel for the evening.
Pipes mounted in silver are monstrous,
and sticks become absurdities when encir-
cled with silver snakes. Silver handles are
almost as bad. The correct stick is the
shepherds crook of dark plain wood, with a
single silver band on the plain stick of
polished wood with round silver top, and
monogram is good form for older men. A
young Englishman here carries stick
with a good-sized crook, on the end of
which his initials are lnlaid in the wood
This is in excellent taste.
This is not the umbrella season, but
when it is avoid those having handles dis
figured with silver.
Garry your sticks handle upward.
The young Californian who quite re-
Gently married the pretty daughter of a
general, and the son of the late stock
broker, who so soon will become a bene-
dict, both look well in tweed and know
what is what.
The man who knows it all remarked re-
Gently on his return from San Rafael that
the men looked pretty we'll groomed as
whole, don't you know" but he saw no
especial swell over there. This remark
holds good concerning most of our men at
the seaside resorts. They go in for a good
time, caring little apparently about their
get-up. But over in Sausalito and Belve-
dere there are some who on occasions are
veritable ocean swells" in their white
fannels or white duck. Three men who
are always together in Belvedere are re-
marked for their spotless attire, just as