The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1895-06-21
LETTER FROM GUATEMALA.


GUATEMALA, June 10-The city of
Guatemala has been called the Paris Of
Central America. It is a city of refine
ment, elegance and repose; a city Of
TO-, 900 inhabitants, built upon plain
surrounded by the PERCEPTIONS sides Of
deep gullies, where, previous to 1878,
there was nothing but single hermit
age; a city commenced az centuries
after Pedro Alvarado had conquered the
country. 1t is built to order, laid out
with the regularity of the squares on q
chessboard and containing splendid edi-
fees of lime and stone. Its elevation of
8, 200 feet endows it with a climate that
may be compared to perpetual autumn.
An article has gone the rounds of the
press commencing, eff there ever was a
country STEPPED in blood of civil strife,
it is Guatemala To one who has lived
in this country for many years and en-
joyed the hospitality of its generous and
sympathetic people such calumnious re-
ports produce feeling of shame and re-
greet at the display of ignorance concern
ing this little known country.
Since Ruf1no Barrios, uncle of the
present president, marched down from
the heights of Quezaltenango, some 20
odd years ago, and put to flight his op-
ponents-an army whose ammunition
consisted of cartridges loaded with char
coal-the country has not seen a single
revolution to involve the land in civil
strife. Previous to this leader of more
humble origin than our own rail split
ting president-for he was pig driver
occupied the presidency in compare
tive peace for upward of 80 years.
With the entry of that wonderful man,
Barrios, the watchword progress was
added to that of liberty"
Indolent Indian tribes were gathered
in like the truant children Of negli-
gent parent. Some were sent to school,
and others made to work building roads
and turning virgin forests into produc-
tive fields of coffee. The inventive, go
ahead and thrifty &c Gringo" was encour-
aged to come into the land and turn up
the sod, a railroad was built from the
coast to the capital and port estab-
lished where formerly but long line Of
breakers beat upon the sandy beach.
Telegraph lines were constructed
throughout the country, and scarcely
had electricity been pronounced a sue
cess for illuminating purposes than a
company was organized and the streets
of Guatemala were lit by electricity.
The telephone was in active operation
before many Of our northern cities had
given it a serious thought, and police
force, modelled after "the fnest,'' was
established under the supervision of a
captain of a New York squad.
And thus this progressive spirit has
continued without apparent check since
its inau6 dration by its illustrious pro-
genitor.
look in vain for my old boarding
house, with EMPOWERED garden and vine
covered portal. The house is there, the
same old orange tree and fig tree, and
maybe those are the same flowers, but
the kind old senoras who waited upon
their guests with such hospitality, they
have gone. The house is no longer
boarding house, and I am obliged to
seek lodgings in a modernized hotel,
where am deprived of the pleasure of
attending to my own horse and must
mingle with guests from foreign lands,
who know nothing Of the delights of
native hospitality.
The bell of the ice cream vender de-
notes luxury in the reach of all, for
formerly ice was an article only pro-
durable from the distant height of the
volcano Del Fuego and sold at fabu-
lous price. Now number of ice facto-
ries compete in supplying the city with
an article that has become almost indis-
pensable.
Near the corner Of the Plaza de Ar
mas we discover a soda water fountain
supplying a constant stream Of custom
ers, another innovation which the peo-
pie seem to have readily taken to. While
we are here at the Plaza de Arnas let
us take look at the cathedral Its lofty
walls rise in all their purity and mai
esty and look down upon the plaza. All,
but the plaza That indeed has under
gone a change. Before my time BarriOs
had driven the market women out with
their pots and baskets, and now an iron
! fence incloses the space filed with ex-
otto plants and trees. The old cobble-
stone pavement, surrounding a curious
statue Of stone in the midst of fonnt
of water, has given place to modern i'm
provements The ground glass globes of
the electric light swing above, and gray
Ell walks wind between blooming rose
bushes and feathery leaved palms.
Crossing the plaza we enter the off
ces of the chief Of police, and you who
4udSlno OudteHIdla TO De country OF
the half tanned savage, look about. New
er were such furnishings more complete
or rich. The plush carpet fairly sinks
beneath your tread and the walls are
one mass of draperies and decorations to
match the beautiful upholstered furni-
ture of native mahogany, nor does the
chief strangely contrast with all this
elegance. Dressed in neatly cut suit
of black, he meets you with courteous
smile. Nor is he despotic in his sway
mid all this elegance, but gives hear
ing to the poorest petitioner
His police are equipped with clubs
and wear blue uniforms, all imported
| from the United States.
| A IT tho OFT Of ,,,o5o-,, c,.oLi +o1+- T.