Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-03-16

Don't smile at this suggestion Of economy,
for your good sense must tell you that it
is eminently practical and the closeted
skeletons of gowns bought because they
we're striking" and for that reason soon
tired of. yet utterly beyond all possibility
of remodeling, must IbounceOout at you
every little while to prove the truth Of the
assertion.
Get good patterns riley are always the
cheapest. If you are not over or under
answer your purpose. but a good dress
maker, who understands all your oddities
of figure, can make you better pattern,
even If it does cost a little more. Select
gowns. Cheap liningss will ruin the set of
the best of materials. wouldn't have
silk lining in bodice, and silk skirt lin
fngs add double to the cost, besides wearing
out very fast. The fine cotton Innings are
best, all things considered. Be sure that
they are warranted not to fade, and test
them yourself. Dampen corner of the
handkerchief and rub the material If it
rubs off on the linen reject 1t.
1t Is best to line the waist and skirt with
material as near the color of the dress as
1t is possible to obtain You may waive
this for the bodice, If you object to dark
colors about your shoulders, but there Is
nothing more desperately untidy than to
see the lifted skirts Of a dark gown that
has light lining-unless 1t be to discover
that the light lining is supplemented by
white petticoat with drabbled edges and
dusty embroidery, or a black skirt with
torn, frayed bindings. But then a woman
such disgraceful petticoats would be quite
beyond hope Of redemption on any article
of attire. One may have to wear a five
year-old gown. but there is simply no ex-
cuse for untidy lingerie. Soap and water
are cheap and SO is thread.
As to the Waist.
Press all the seams Of your gown-unless
= still al, ov,I lpr o1l%
of the waist with good whalebone, except
the curved seams of the side bodies. Don't
make the bones too long. SO that they will
punch holes in your waist at the top, or
come through at the bottom, but they
should be smoothly and firmly attached
and come quite to the edge. Don't try to
make your gown waist too long, for 1t will
wrinkle, in spite of your bones, and if you
get it too short 1t will pull up. In fitting
the waist you will find most of the trouble
with the front. Be sure to get the waist
long enough from the top of the shoulder
to the top of the bust. II you get 1t short
there 1t will "hunch" up from the bottom,
and cut you across the back of the neck in
most uncomfortable fashion. Bring your
darts well to the front; do not slant them
back too much, and have a care about get
ting them too high, as 1t will give a fiat
tening effect. Leave generous seams. and
don't bind them, but notch instead. They
are less apt to draw. If you are novice
at dressmaking don't try any novelties of
garniture, because 1t will only make you
unhappy.
1t seems easy to make dress skirt hang
well, until you have exhausted all your re-
sources on 1t, and then you realize that the
devils must have gone into dress skirts
instead Of into the sea. Again, 1t Is requi-
site that you have good pattern and one
that has been created to cover all the lido
syncrasies of your figure. Having got
your pattern, cut your lining. being careful
to have 1t perfectly straight, and taen
haste 1t on the goods, with care that 1t
is true to thread. If you are careless In
this particular your dress skirt will hang
awry and you never Will be able to get 1t
straight. Basic every width, lining to out
side, and leave the hastings in and haste
the seams.
If you sew on the machine adjust the
tension on bits Of the goods beforehand, SO
that there will be no drawing because the
thread Is too tight. II two bias seams
come together run a cotton tape along the
seam, by hand, to keep 1t from stretching.
as 1t Is bound to do n you leave it to its
own devices. Make the waistband out CT
a piece of lengthwise lining, and on the
outside put a strip of the dress goods, SO
that 1t will not look incongruous If 1t slips
from under the bodice. Fashion the belt
carefully. so that it will not be bungle-
some. but let 1t fit closely about your waist.
In cutting the skirt always allow at least
two inches in length. You know that most
wooden goods will full some after being
exposed 10 damp, 80, ! you are
you will turn In at least an inch at the top
of your skirt to permit OF letting down
should it become necessary.
shorter I'm the Back.
Fasten your belt, about your waist, to
one side Of course, no gown should open
directly in the back, and let some one adj
just your skirt. Pin it squarely to the belt
in front, then adjust the rest Of 1t to fit
your figure, either holding little full or
pinning in the tiny darts that are to shape
1t in front. 1t is a long, tedious process,
but you can't get that skirt to fit any other
way, and you needn't think it. After it
is all pinned in place haste it to the belt,
then slip 1t on again, stand on a table and
let some one turn 1t up at the bottom to
the required length, running a basting
thread at the same time Don't haste one
side and try to do the other by it.
Not one woman in ten has the two sides
of her figure alike. Let the dress almost
touch in front and shorten the tiniest bit
in the world around the sides clear to the
back. You will probably be surprised to
find that when you measure the back
by the front your gown Is all of two
inches shorter in the back and hangs the
better for it. That is a jaunty little French
touch to dressmaking that not many mod
istes seem to understand and that is why
so many skirts dip in the back. After the
skirt Is made the proper length, trim and
bind, with velvet II you like. Let the velvet
come an atom below the edge of the skirt,
of course the velvet or other binding will
be of the exact shade of the material, and
1t will protect the skirt from cutting at the
bottom. Renew the velvet as fast as it
gets rusty. Exactly in the center of the
belt and on the inside sew big hook and
put an eye on the belt Of the bodice, to
which hook your skirt, and 1t will never
separate and cover you with confusion.
SENORA SARA
MARRIED IN, A VAULT.