The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-04-14

of the upper rounded, while above is
smart little turnover collar of velvet. The
coat is now fastened with a single large
button. and has side pockets. The sleeves
turn up at the wrists with daintily shaped
cuffs. Covet coating is the favorite cloth
for these costumes, and the new colors are
very soft and pretty, notably the blues and
tans; and there is no better material for
spring wear, being at once light, cool and
durable.
A pretty Partisan toilet is of brown
and white checkered silk, in glace. 1t has
the dropping shoulders, a deep box pleat
in the front and muslin cuffs of exquisitely
clear, fine muslin. and the box ple9t is
trimmed with muslin that .peeped from
beneath large black reveres; black crepon
falls over it from the throat.
The favorite skirt trimming seems to be
insertion laid over black satin, but for the
most part the skirts are absolutely plain.
This check dress like many models
shown, had a double collar edged with lace.
Crepons continue to be the rage, new de-
signs almost daily being placed on the
market a gown is thus described, made
of a blue crepon, in the depths OF the
wavy lines here and there glistens sequin.
The bodice is covered with a net closely
traced with iridescent blue sequins, and
showing that the lining beneath has stripes
of cream colored lace. The front is
pouched, and the yoke piece is made of
white satin, embroidered iii iridescent blue
beads and sequins. The skirt Is triumph
in cross cutting. Many skirts are now box
pleated in the back. East three things are
noted-the large lisse ruffs, generally black,
with colored flowers, scarlet and purple;
the introduction of white lace on black or
colored capes and mantles, either as rows
of lace insertion or square trimmings OF
lace or embroidered muslin covering the
shoulders, mostly having bouquet of ar
tifcial flowers attached somewhere; and
lastly the polichinelle bonnets, which are
described as being something like the old
chapeau bras. Some are made in black
lace or wired jet; many are mainly COM
posed of flowers, but is style which Will
soon become common. A truly recherche
headgear is composed of metal paillettes,
like the scales of salmon, covering the
top of the head and falling in points, d.
vided by ostrich tips, two standing erect on
top.
Another bonnet has bow of vivid rose
pink in the center, and black velvet mar
guerites on either side having Hght-green
centers, they are backed by feathery gueras
aigrettes. All millinery is extensively
trimmed at the back, and straw has un-
dergone a new treatment. 1t is brightly
colored and often shot. One hat of this
kind has a brim made in loops and ar
ranged in pleats high up on one side, the
crown of silk was beaded with gold sequins,
a large cream lace bow standing boldly up
at the back, intermixed with carnations
of red, yellow and purple shades springing
from a bunch of cool, green foliage. The
crinoline lace is an important novelty this
year, and bonnet made of it had leaves
of jet between the pleats, and large bow
of real Brussels lace in the front, inter
mingled with twisted Jet.
A new jacket without sleeves is on the
market have seen none here, but the
garment is described as being very pretty
it has a cape to the armhole, which is
trimmed with rows of Jet that also border
the whole garment and this ornamental
ton, while simple, is effective.
Apropos of jackets, capes and mantles,
Miss Calhoun wore in the play | have
mentioned an opera mantle of black satin
brocaded with roses of a deep pink shade.
1t has a wide collar of Chantilly and a
delicate lining OF rose pink satin, and was
much admired.
Muslin and lace promise to be much en-
evidence. 1t appears in some form in
nearly all the new models as turned-down
collars and cuffs. 1t is safe to say that this