Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-05-20
HOW A CITY IS FED.
s Visit to New York's Meat Markets at
 Daybreak.
Special Correspondence. l

Visit to New Works Meat Markets at
 Daybreak.
 Special Corrvspondcnss.l
 NEW YORK, May l4.-To be out At 5 o'clock in the morning Ut any time Is un- usual enough, but to arise at that hour on purpose, and 10 find oneself in gray, warm drilzlc waiting for freight train near the long lines of black wharvcs-that was startling and had tho delightful charm of novelty.
 was on my way tu tho markets, and cho,c to get thcru on the train that carried in the beef from the west.
 At last the sluggish beat of the engine was heard in the smoky distance, and the lighted front appeared shedding long rays of light through the misty air. How like great, grimy serpent it was as it came slowly on, and what a discontcntcd snort it gave aS 1t came tu a standstill, while I, aSsi> led hy n cnmpanion, clamhcrcd to the top of the cars, and wrapping my mackin- tUsh around me prepared to take survey of the city at this strange and mysterious hour.
 New York was fast asleep, the just and the unju alike. It was too late for even thc most hrlatrd of rrvr!crS to be abroad and too early for the most industrious housewife. No, the markrtmrn alone owned inc city in the breaking day
 After n slow, 1hruhhing journey a,ong the silent StNct Cdging the river. where a skeleton frrtwurk of masts and rigging could hr >Vrn, we arrived at a great, light cd square. where the ghaStly white of cleo tririty mingled with the yclluwucss from the multitude of gas jets. The middle of the big place Was given over 10 cloth GOV cred wagons These held country produce in tons. The farmers were beginning to lift the covers, and the wonders of cold lenlonadc were even then out among them. Tho 'grrrn things that grow" smcllcd de liciOusly fresh and cnticins There were spinach and asparagus and onion sprouts and radi>hcs by the ton, straw berries with tho warm of tho sunshine in them, mil lions and millions of potatoes. o.. dear mo could there really bc any ono hungry in all the world!
 Well, ono luuk ut the Euttvr~, and the pretty, happy thought which suggested thc question tlrd for tkrr' Wvrr thr wasted. clflnlikr children of tlr very pour and gar- ruluuS lt&lian crrrvS busy hraping toErth- CT the r'fuSc which the farmers had dis Carlrd.
 Wclcft the vegetable Wagons standing liko an army rt tents inthr square and en- tered the meat markets. What q noise, what excitement, what activity! IL WAS new world, q world of meat and sawdUSt, where men wore long, blood SVattvrrd aprons, and where man 's supremacy waS illus tratcd ill the avenues of Nlau rhtcr,d ami malls suspended sn ahjrrtly hy the legs rn the thousands of cruel, glistcninE hooks as far a~ the eve could reach. Meat every whCrr, and everywhere meat A little Nay farther down lh, trains Were b2inE uul1sdrd, and hu,rhrrs >tag- grrrl up rlau',, into dim to2rl:ou~rS hrar ing f,vyrt sjd,~ fl beef upon their i;ryl~y Shuullr;-
 "Clu,h ,lus&. rlurk, qu.,vh, quAck, Qua,h
 wo followed the sound and heard the tutt,r ,i iurri~"urd wings. Thruu sh great. W,.I,u l,.r> d ,~S,,~ the poor tr,,th cred 'r'at,.r,~> >' ~,"'n tn h. turned into ru:l-I ,l;.,l l.I"... ,.~ ,s.uld hr s,yn-tlucks l star .'' l,Il -'I 'u-..lly over their G'I.rr ila' 'l>>. Iii, ',.-tl- and many utl:vr Navi- cli,'> ,i smaller hirL.. Prom the long rows Ut r.,.,'~, i'jlrl "uv thn>" the other, ctmo th> M.!l~r.I Ilu!lSrinE, this ccaIclcss movement.
 Ii never want tu sec . chop or n brUiled chicken aGaiu c1, l.imcd and we took n Cc,'s~ town v1r tn the other side of the town wEcr,' iho Ii; fsh markets are sta tiu:,d
 liktF tue l't4iN l"tl$UEt'~ WCFN SCI hut on lUntt $. r',rhHS uf slahS They shonc with a u"'i! lu>,c- in oralcsccnt and va ryinE huc'
 The s,llr,i If fish wa. in tho air Long strirEH If lhr!a wc-c being unloaded from the $u;tcl,N Nourrd alongside the docks, and every ccawiirg thing th:t finds it's home on water beds wa' there, winkins at you with hiAr!1 hcadcd eyes W" HSscl crowd gathered around a hugo t"~;'' csawiHja.; it with as much dis ct liI.'. in ard Cu' htsiasIn as >|Orts man ,!,a > a Hooded horse Byil.is tiu,r rhc fresh air from tho river had ',:>ru Us an appetite of most awful prop"w ions We decided 10 hrcakfa>t with thN mayh. tmrn. On our way to tho al | mus; oi ru air rC.;aurant we passed wagon | vendors hH.i"S lhoIr dlily stock, thrifty h"ard!pg h,'i-' },,~'j'rr< and DNnr. Ccnuom- icul moth, getting f,od for tho carly ta- | blr.
 AA hrrr Was tho eating house, and what . El.tn [. r"r was evident every whCrC-N.'vs l-',i''c: tho fC2:ninE coffee pour rois,ly f','n his. nickel plated urn. mon eating huuErilv and with evident dc light, \ I"Tular 'uG was being whistlcd | bS thc coul =oncwhrrc ia tho hack regions @hd a h'o'' hlH"k WIS dancing a hornpipc on the d"ur.tr1.
 | Bl:t, Nh, that C0IlCC, The perfumes of l Arabia Wrrr >tr}r% in il.
 From the thick and heavy cups placed before H. ,,inc swayiu-S clouds uf steam that .rH' ,hy carly l.:>,r,.:;.- C, l,Nvt hS from | the b-ai:. I, n,av h.'r Nu,n thc rawnczs of tke oa.l; air. II may have been the ro- tcnCy of ti!r spirit of adventure, but that cup of coffee noVur had been e,lualrd, and am sura can ncvrr bo uutrivalcd. Alter nll this hurly hurly in tho lighted markets s,uckrd with food, how strange it was Ia ssu up town and sro the early milk mnn knochin:, vaiuly against a shuttcrcd window, slrvp still holding suprmacy save for Cn Crca, iunal early lahorcr appear | ing on the vista ui empty strCWt likca black clot against the sky! New York was just | about t0 rub its eyes