The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1895-03-24
FOR WOMEN'S READING
WHAT THE MIN SEASON WILL
SHOW IN GOWNS AND MILLINERY.
Black Gowns VIII Take the Lead
other Matters in the Feminine Realm
Plain Needle Work an Art.

AS the season advances the demand for
black goods indicated by the earliest adj
vices from Paris has increased to such q
degree, says the New York Ledger. that
some of the larger establishments have
been compelled to clear their shelves Of
colored goods to make room for the enor-
nous stocks of black novelties that are
pouring into the markets. Whether in
wool or silk, black is the coming color. and
in silk especially the demand is unprece-
dented.
A black silk skirt. with a waist of bright
colored material, is the accepted style for
all ordinary occasions.
For dreSsy wear, light skirts, with black
waists, promise to be the new fad. This
latter combination is of great advantage to
women who are at all stout. A perfectlv-
fitted black waist is the most becoming
thing that women of full figure can wear;
and with light-colored flowing draperies, es-
pecially with the wide, faring skirts now
approved, costumes of this sort are in
every way satisfactory.
Black brocaded silks will be made up into
skirts to wear with fancy waists.
Moire is less popular than heretofore. In
deed, moires never last. They come in with
a great flourish of trumpets, and get up
into popularity like the rocket, to come
down like the stick.
A few months after moires begin to wane
in favor they are thrown upon bargain
counters, and dealers are glad to get rid of
them at any price. They are, at their best.
unreliable, and are among the few high
class goods that nc merchant is ever will
ing to sell with a guarantee.
Crape-Surfaced goods are all the rage, and
are extremely pretty, and are becoming to
most women. Very stout ladies should not
wear them, as they increase the bulk, a
thing not at all desirable.
As to new ideas, they are not common,
which is really very well for women who
have good dresses on hand. In tailor
dresses and everyday suits the full-topped
sleeves, wide iapels and the vest, either
low cut, to show the fancy front, or but
toned up to the throat, are the preferred
models. There is a suggestion of fussiness
in some of the important styles that is not
at all approved by the best American taste.
There are sleeves with double cuffs, and
also extra ffaring cuffs, with embroidery
edge. Another model has enormous faring
sleeves over fitted sleeves and a double
cape. the capes and sleeves trimmed with
A new style of cape has a round yoke with
the breadths plated in very full. Over the
shoulders and across the back a second
cape is gathered in at the same line. This
upper cape is very full, and a heading of
portion. There is a full collar of velvet with
large velvet rosettes at the sides and SINH
lar %rosettes on the front where the heavy
braid ends.
A cape conspicuous for its novelty, al
though it is exceptionally ugly. has a. square
yoke, very deep IN 'front.', a very full ruff1e
trimmed with bands of ribbon or velvet
and a star-shaped collar standing high up
around the throat. This collar is entirely
without trimming and is too severe in effect
for anything approaching TO beauty.
The most desirable capes of the season
are those made of velvet or satin. They
are quite full and deliberately trimmed One
imported model is of velvet. The main por-
ton of the cape extends about eighteen
inches below the waist line. There is a
round yoke with extensions to the lower
edge of the m This portion is very
elaborately embroidered and into this all
straight from the shoulders. The entire gar
ment is lined with bright-colored silk, and
has a standing collar also of embroidery.
"A few jackets are worn, but with the
enormous dress sleeves they are difficult
to get into. Indeed, it Is almost impossible
for a lady to put her JACKIE on without as
s~istance. The cape, therefore, that is easily
thrown around the figure and tied with a
ribbon around the throat is much more
popular. and will doubtless be the approved
wrap of the season.