The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-11-17

III rs THE "sWEET GIRL" VINO
WINS NOWfDJYs.
VIII ~ Institutes The Sweet Girl-Dresses
Hats and Wraps -Trimmings-tven-
ing BOancts.

ambitious women could wish for. These
were her stock IN trade. and with them
she sailed forth 10 conquer the most IN
susceptible OF the male sex.
That was all very well for the Maud
Mullcrs and Cincerellas who found II so
easy to win lords and princes for nus
bands. But nowadays II takes girl VINO
IS swell" 10 marry man with IA handle
10 his name, and young men who are
not dukes and never hope TO De anything
but plain. ordinary misters. or honorables,
al most. judge the woman whom they adj
Inire by the same criterion, passing by
the pretty g!rl whose get up is tame
for that OF the palmer damsel with
stunning frock
There are three principal things which
the connOisseuf of fashion takes note Of
in determining whether "A costume IS up
to-date or not. namely: the hat, the wrap
and the hang Of the skirt. IL these are
correct the wearer passes muster and may
be admitted into the ranks Of the super
ncially well dressed without further ex-
animation.
The chief consideration in the matter
of hats is width. 1t is the fault Of that
insignificant bit of headgear known as
the Napoleonic hat that II is So and the
broad-faced fcminines who bemoan their
fate for having 20 increase their love
liness with the addition Of broad hat
may trace their Affections along with
those OF many real sufferers back to the
great emperor himself.
The French seem TO have an aversion
for the organs Of hearing. Ears with
them are vulgar. and should be concealed.
Anybody can see this by a glance al
French fancies IN coiffurcs. Not "A single
French beauty but manages in one way
or another 10 cover up her hearing APP
paratus with her hair. If she cannot
cover the whole ear. she fastens a lock
or so over the upper tin as If she We're
afraid IL might lean out too far i'm the
effort TO hear and make itself conspic-
uous.
Hats Of the present season serve n
similar purpose. They are made wide
over the ears with plenty OF feathers and
tips peeping over the edge and nesting
down over the hair 80 as either TO com
pletely obscure those afore mentioned OBJ
1ectionable features or TO so put them IN
the background that the observer forgets
they are there.
one Of the daintiest evening bonnets
have seen had a feather tin Gaping
each car IL wasn't any particular shape
"a sort Of cross between a Napoleon and
Tam O. Shanter. The crown was white
velvet sDangled all over with gold se-
quins. The brim was formed Of wired
lace i'm a rose pattern. one little white
feather stood straight up at one side Of
rhe crown and facing toward the front
II makes great deal of difference which
way a feather faces. 10y the way. There
were three white tips under the hrim, one
curling around and concealing each ear.
and the third falling over the knot Of hair
at the back.
Another fetching little bonnet was
made of nasUrtium 'Vcfve-. The vciNet
was laid i'm folds across the front. being
caught on each side the face with orna-
ments. beyond which it extended still
further I'm double loops. \ black aigretto
was set on tho side of the front 10 give
the height necessary to counterhalance
so much breadth.
Speaking Of aigrcttos. they are an alb
sclute necessity in an evening hat. and
the fashionable girl does not content her
scf with tho plumagc Of one winged
lover. but clumps them together in
punches as ruthiCssly aS she does The
scalps mctaphorically speakincl OF her
own fond admirers Aigrottes are really
the only dainty trimming in the market
which will add height without involvire
. heavinoes "a tho bonnet. They are dyed
all coiors of the rainbow. one as ionish-
inc combination was bright green and
bright blue The lower part of the aisrctte
was green and ,he ends blue AM the
whole was used 10 sdcrn q hat made Of
a green ana brown Drcsden silk.
The tendency Of evening headgear IS
toward hats rather ihan bonucts- not
very large hats az vet. hut for-runnor
Of what is 20 come later. perhaps. 4
new shade of pink velvet combined VITA
lace Is a favoriie for such hats. \ pink
velvet hat With a fan ~ black chiffon
embroidered in white fastened with a
steel ornament. and a bunch Of black
aigrcttes wrapped I'm "a fuunel-shapcf
piece OF chiffon s2,-h was the heaieear
OF "A brilliant brunette in "a box ar wen.
no matter where for 70 ie the bonnet
We are talking about anyway
Evening dresses grow more ana more
gorgeous I'm The matter OF materials. No
plain silk or even chiffon s. admissible
for evening wear unless 80 is yelfd with
something else. 4 plain pink SIX waist
was covered with white Swiss bodice.
sleeves and all-and IL was very pretty.
hut n would have been what the French
call Impossible" II II had not been Tor
tho Swiss
The silks are all heavily figured ORES
den heino ihe laVori'c Dresden silF
varies In price from 500 20 500 per ward.
An exquisite piece with green ground
had rose pattern I'm rainbow rci iin's
so beautifully woven that young bride.
NhrHe FOND spouse shopper Win her,
chcerfully paid S5Oo a yari for h.
Many OF the Dresden silks have black
grounds. which makes them adaptable
20 both Young and Old. There are black
silks wit1 royal blue singlc-rosc patterns
"A little anomalous as TO color. but that
Is nothing when beauty ami not realism
Is the object
The figured chiffons are like a mirage
of all th.s goreehus-hued stun Their
Pat ernS are somewhat similar to those
OF Dresden six bat being so fine they
look like shadows on a mist. and whcl
one makes sleeves Of them-ah me- bat II
takes yards
gown which combined the two was
made even more gorgeous by the Gddi-
lion of a brilliant cloak INC cloak was
made OF striped Dresden and lined with
nlain silk The collar. faced with velvet
20 match the lining was edged with tiny
whfte ostrich tips. The gown was made
~ Main six with a Dresden panel I'm the
front Of the skirt. and bands of the same
% outline the low cosSage. The sleeves
wera made OF figured chiffon with a long
rnot az ribbon hanging from the should
-. n strsos which extend from shA