davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

ate for youth that they should be made the
most of, for long will seem the years when
only silks satins and heavy brocades will
be the correct materials. However, the
delicate fabrics are horribly expensive, one
dance usually finishing frock, and back
it must 60 to the foundation to be re-
draped to the dressmaker s. keen delight
The so-called floral gowns will be worn
by young girls only. For instance, read
tie description of one delightful! creation:
"There are two immensely full skirts
of white tulle falling over white
sole de Lyons, and all three skirts
are gathered on one band. The tulle skirts
are hemmed with vine heading embroid
cred in white floss, exceedingly dainty and
effective. The decoIlete corsage, draped
en- bebe in double tulle, rises in a slight
point back and 'front.' and is headed by
full garland of forget-me-nots, which form
shoulder-straps to the bodice. The sleeves
are made of many thicknesses of tulle
caught under the flowers of the shoulders
and draped so as to expose the arms in front
and then draped fully into the armhole in
bouffant way. The sleeve is finished at
the elbow by band of sky-blue velvet,
matching the bouquets which are CO.
quettishly fastened on the outside. A
garland of myosotis is worn round the
throat and connected from this gorgette
to the decoletage are eight floral chains,
slender ana lovely, three IN Ln0 Dack,
three in the front, and short ones OF each
shoulder, which fit over the neck perfectly.
The girdle is of sky-blue velvet, fastened
in the back with smart bow"
The Napoleonic fad is over. although
exquisite little empire fans, with the
wreath of laurel leaves in gold or spanges
on gauze or kind are still in favor.
Some novelties in fans are in great de-
mand; for instance, charming ones of
white gauze, daintily painted mounted on
amber sticks; others have sticks of mot
tied shell. those at the ends being quantity
carved and inlaid with gold
Silver is so cheap this year that many
holiday gifts are fashioned of this metal
Black English morocco, handsomely deco
rated with open-work silver, is used for
many articlesuseful for our writing-tables.
In Paris and New York white linon
covered with thread lace of the finest
quality composes the frocks of the sweet
est of girls, and very lovely are such COM
positions when worn over slips of silk
or satin being worn under them. The
sashes always match the slips.
For outdoor wear velvet dresses made a
la Russo are in great vogue, and small
boys look well in velvet suits when made
with baggy knickerbockers and blouses
trimmed with fur, buttoned crosswise with
enameled buttons. Dark furs look best
on the favorite colors used, purple, dark
green and royal blue. OF course, Mus
covite cap goes with such a costume, and
high boots reaching just below the knees
must be worn.
The tiny maidens are also being arrayed
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

small putting at the top of the arm and
the remainder fitted tightly to the wrist"
Another of the gowns has a bodice of
green spangled satin, cut square in front,
with full founcing of white tulle falling
over the plain coat sleeves. The skirt is
of white bengaline, studded with strass.
A beautiful evening dress is said to have
been of "yellow brocaded satin. the de-
sign in loops and ends of ribbons, and in
each design a center of jewels"
Rejane also wears an elegant opera
cloak of black satin, spangled with jet
and lined with coral satin. 1t was made
in shape like the old circular coaks, but
much wider, of course, SO we may be GER
tain that this style OF cloak will again be
very popular. [ have seen one here al
ready which was imported by French
house. 1t is of superfine dark blue cloth,
lined with shot-green silk and our great
puffy, fluffy balloon sleeves are doomed,
and with them will go our pretty capes,
but to tell you the truth these wraps, dear
to our vanity, are the indirect cause of
many a severe cold, as the prettiest and
most ornamental seldom offer any protec-
ton from the cold north wind as we rush
from one tea to another between the hours
of and Z. How cozy and comfortable, in
comparison, does the girl look. who wears
a swagger tailor jacket, and one can safely
predict that she will not have queer grippy
pains the next day.
Violets and fur are frequently worn to-
gether, indeed violets are welcome addi-
ton to most costumes.
A Frenchman has placed an acceptable
Christmas card on the market. It is a
sachet and card in one and will serve de-
Iightfully to perfume our gloves and laces
The perfume called the "Royal Mimosa"
is in high favor.
The charity bazaar given by one of
Oakland's social leaders last Saturday on
Alice street was most brilliant and sue
cessful event, the bellies and beaus render
ing it their enthusiastic support. The
gowns worn were noted for their beauty:
indeed most of them looked as though
they had been desi sned for this special
occasion.
Girls, you who are, or are Poing 20 be,
bellies, let me advise YOU to spend less, if
necessary, on gorgeous fabrics and have
more numerous frockS, as to look always
fresh and pretty is very essential if you
desire belleship. A word to the wise you
know.
give you an illustration of handsome
princess dress recently worn by beau
tiful blonde. 1t is made of lime green
beaver satin, fastening down one side with
diamond buttons. The sleeves are CON-
posed of light pink satin ribbons covered
with the same shade of tulle, the van
dyked embroidery which outlines the
decolletage showing crystal beads, green
and pink silk and spangleS OF many iri-
descent hues.
Bodices recalling the styles of 1880 are
in vogue. One worn at small dinner is
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

described as being of black tulle over a
black silk waist, with round decollete; the
tulle was put in plain and quite full,
slightly dropping in front and beaded by
a dainty narrow, full ruche of lie. Straps
of turquoise blue velvet extended over the
shoulders. A black satin skirt completed
the costume.
Some unusually beautiful gowns were
worn at the ball last week. One of rich
cream white satin was simply yelled with
chiffon, embroidered in silver, which pro-
duced a lively effect. Another of a pompa-
dour pattern showed great pink roses,
with their leaves scattered over an eX-
tremeiy handsome white moire rich lace
gave the correct finish. The skirt was very
wide and with white glace taffeta, ruffies
of rose silk showed round the bottom; the
bodice was of plain white watered silk
trimmed with lace, the sleeves being Of
the howered fabric.
At recent function young girl looked
unusually well III simple toilet of pale
pink chiffon over satin of the same shade.
The chiffon was frosted all over with
silver spangles, the bodice and sleeves
were very fluffy and had pompons of pink
hortensia blossoms nesting here and there
in the dainty folds of the chiffon.
youthful matron at the same affair
wore perfectly plain skirt of rich silk,
pale blue shot with white. The low cut
bodice was embroidered in seed pearls.
| The large sleeves were of the silk with
deep epaulettes of pearls in lovely de-
sign. An elegantly robed grandmother
looked handsome il an unusual shade of
blue, which looked as though covered
with beautiful black Chantilly lace, but
a closer inspection revealed the fact that it
! was merely the design of the silk. The
| plain skirt had a graceful train and the
corsage was completed with little jet and
some real Chantilly. An unusually beau
tiful comb Of cut jet was in excellent style.
Last year flowers and tuile were the fav-
orites for debutantes, and this season all
kinds of nets, lisses, gauzes and the most
wonderful and exquisite of grenadines,
| lowered as delicatey as "water-colored
pictures" are to be the rage, made over
| silks. These are SO much more appropri-
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
She Runs Across One That Is
Backed by New York's
Four Hundred.
PATHETIC CHRISTMAS HISTORY
True Spirit of the Season Abides
With Those Who Strive
for Others.

NEW YORK, N. Y, Dec. 20.-It was
very queer crowd-in the extreme
| front were the pawnbrokers from of
| the Bowery. Among them and around
them were fashionable women, who looked
| frightened because their sables were g
| little too close to shabby coats and because
| their ears were shocked by loud voices.
| 1t was the sale of society's pawnshop-
| that is to say, the pawnshops that society,
| properly enough, is backing. This pawn
| shop permits you to get back whatever
you pawn on the installment plan, and all
| the percentage that it asks is very small
one, so that your hearts blood is not
dragged from you, and there is some
| chance for the poor. But there were SO
many things not called for. and there had
| to be sale. To be in harmony, this sale
| took place in fashionable auction-room
on Fifth avenue. The day before some
| newest beauty f1irted with the handsomest
| millionaire, and there was a mixed odor
of violets and sable, while the seats were
| filled by people who at night occupy boxes
at the opera. The Four Hundred usually
| 80 to this auction-room, but to-day it was
| the representatives of the 1900, 900 who
were there.
How the dealers did lean forward to look
| at the diamonds They were so eager
| that they were told to sit down. And such
pitiful diamonds as they were! Good
| enough stones, but those in rings were get
as you remember your mothers engage
| ment ring was. Those in brooches were
in the deep, oId-:ashioned way that didn It
| bring out the brightness of the stone, but
which was thought very smart fifty years
ago. There were old-fashioned breastpins,
| such as gentlemen USED to wear in their
scarfs; there was a founce of Spanish
| lace-whose dress bad i: trimmedp There
was little watch with an open face, and
on the back was engraved: ITO the One
Woman from Him"-who was she?
My neighbor on my right was shabby
was thin, she was tall, her features were
sharp and she had that peculiar air that
one sees among the people of the other
side of never having been satisfied, never
having been warm enough, never having
| had clothes enough, and never having had
| quite enough to eat She had on black
alpaca dress, a miserable looking black
Grape bonnet, while shabby blue and
green shawl was wrapped around her
shoulders. She pushed her way through
the crowd, bringing stool with her,
showed me closer to the wall, placed her
stool and seated herself. Then she bor-
rowed my catalogue. She turned over
several pages, and l heard her say to
herself: "'Taint come up yet" She con-
tinued talking, and although 1 did not
understand every word 1 did hear her
say: eff I'd a got here before the sale
commenced thered a been no trouble :;
but when you hire out for day people
they say, gimme day. but 1 was bent
on comirf' here this afternoon to get that. 1"
Rings were sold; watches were sold !;
there were so many wedding rings sold
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

in velvets wonderfully woven, called
"teintes degradees'' because they are
shaded from a semi-dark to light hue,
''the light portion of the goods beginning
at the neck of the garment and losing
itself gradually into waves of darker color
in its downward course" No ornaments
of any kind are proper on such ex-
auisitely artistic robes. which are fit for
fairy princesses.
lunch set of ecru damask most artistically
embroidered in holly; every doyly had
sprightly little sprig in one corner. 1t
was easy to imagine the effectiveness of
great bunch of holly placed in the center.
Apropos of holly | want to wish all my
readers a Merry Christmas and many of
them. MARCELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
PORTLAND RATE WAR,
Belief That the Rival Companies VIII
Make Peace.

Belief That the Rival Companies Will
Make Peace.
Although no direct word has been re-
ceived by the local representatives of the
Oregon Railway and Navigation Company.
it is their belief that the severest battle in
the present rate war with the Southern
Pacific Company between here and Port
land has been fought, and that matters are
now favorable to an early restoration of
peace.
They look on the recent advance in pas
senger rates announced by the Southern
Pacific as sign that the railroad people
are willing to come to terms. The next
step they expect will be an advance in
rates by the Oregon Railway and Naviga-
ton Company. and this it is hoped will
lead to meeting of the representatives of
the warning corporations and an amicable
adjustment of affairs. AS the result of
the peace it is believed that the former
rates will be restored by both companies
and that the Southern Pacific will with
draw its special steamer day train.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
Wa. Expelled From the Car.

William L. Achard is suing the Northern
Pacific Railroad Company for $4,000
damages for insults and injuries received
while passenger on the defendants cars.
He was riding between Tacoma, Wash.
and Portland, Or, and duly presented his
ticket to the conductor when it was de.
manded. The conductor accused him OF
dishonesty obtaining the ticket from a
scalper, and after some words he was put
off the train and he had to walk five miles
through the rain to the nearest station.
He also demanded $1,000 for compensation
for the loss in business which his expulsion
from the car caused him.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

little above the elbow, and finished off
with fall of lace, the arm once more had
its natural appearance, and the success of
the innovation was assured"
Nine. Sortl also wore tight sleeves in
a soft gray wooden robe which draped her
figure to perfection, for the material was
arranged over beautifully fitted lining
in soft folds attached with a bunch of
violets in front and drawn little to one
side at the back, finishing with a narrow
pleating of lace. The sleeves had just
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

HISTORY, fiction, art books; big consignment.
Closing out for account of our Eastern pub
fishers. Must get storage charges out of them.
Open evenings TAT Market street
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

Hard to think just what to give,
isn't it? Well, here's a suggestion
give something to make home
beautiful. A dainty piece of China,
something in Cut Glass, a nice
Vase, Figure or Onyx Table; a set
of Dishes or Glassware and last
and best of all, handsome Lamp
and Silk Shade. All good, sensible
presents, and not high, when you
get them at the wholesale price.
Only two days left now; put on
your thinking-cap and come down
to the big China store with the
little prices.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
Christmas
NeckWear.

Exquisite novelties in Ladies' Neck.
wear-very seasonabIe and very de-
sirable presents.
Trlby Collars-Gauffre Slks-lace Insertions
all the new evening shades-$l 80 each.
Yokes In new shapes-Oriental lace on silks
many colors and patterns-$3 so and 81 SO.
Wide Ruffled Chiffon Collarettes-trimmed
with lovely Honiton Lace and Ribbon Rosettes
to match-cream or black-$l 90 to So so.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

| An old African chief who followed
Livingstone has just died. He leaves
| forty five widows.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
Christmas
Ostrich Boas.

Now, here is something that will
please. Usually they cost too much,
but these prices are very special.
Real Ostrich Feather Boas, 10 inches long, with
satin rbbons-only 80 so and $5.
Real Ostrich Feather Boas, 36 inches long
worth from So to $12 5O-for So rs, SIS, 81
and $40 SO.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
Christmas
Mantle Drapes.

why nos q PtStey 1ouuOIS4uI IOE
Christmas present?
Cotton Crepon OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
linen fringe on three sdes-pretty patterns
almost any color-$1 each.
Japanese Gold-embroidered Silk Lambrequins
or Drapes-3 yards long-24 inches wide-fancy
knotted silk fringe on three sides-amost eny
color-worth one-third more-$3 to 50.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
Christmas
Tides -Scarfs.

Irish Point Scarfs, Tides, Squares
and Doylies. The genuine hand
made Spachtel Stitch-charming pat
terms.
Doylies-$2 rs to $6 dozen.
Center Pieces-S1 IS to 50 each.
Tray Cloths-$2 TO a so each.
Scarfs-$4 to Sc so each.
The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22
The Christmas Spirit
DerVadeS Our StOreS===
at every COunter===in
all departments.

The beautifulthe serviceabethe useuthe sensible
Gifts be bought here-as cheap anywhere-probaby
cheaper Assortments still gOodbut there
left for Xmas buying, quicky-in morning
you would avoid the greatest crush.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-07-24
RELIC OF PEREGRINUS.
Authenticated by Archbishop Cor
rigan, Of New York.
History of Msrtyred saint and How His
Remains Came to Be Transport
ed from Bavaria to the
United Statas.

Last Good Friday there arrived in
regrinus, saint and martyr. He was
confined in pine box sealed and pad
locked. The custom house authorities
would have violated the sanctities of
these seals but for the interference of
Father Gerard Spielman, o. S. B., of
New York, to whom the relic had been
confided.
He explained to the inspector of GUS
toms that the canon rule required that
the seals of sacred relic should be
broken only in the presence of the
highest ecclesiastical authorities, whose
duty it was to pronounce upon its gen.
uineness. The Inspector yielded with
out murmur, and the saint was duly
installed in the rectory of st. Anselm's
chnrch, at One Hundred and Fifty-third
street and linton avenue, awaiting the
time when Archbishop Corrigan should
have examined all the documents,
authenticated the relic and approved
of its being exposed to public venera-
ton in the church itself.
1ncSc ucIdllSs says GLC NC" loIh
Herald, have now been complied with.
The relic has passed the severest scru-
tiny, its history has been verified and
its genuineness established beyond a
doubt. So the saint now occupies an
altar in the basement of the still I'M
finished church. When that edifce is
completed it will have a shrine espe-
cially built for it.
The body is in an excellent state of
preservation. The face, although moth
ing of course but dried skin and bone,
presents an appearance that is not at
all CHASTITY or repulsive, and the glim-
mer of smile, pleasant and gracious,
is perceptible. 1t wears gorgeous raj
ment of silk, decorated with jewels
which were made for it in 1871 and are
of the fashion of that period rather
than of the time when Peregrinus
actually flourished. In the right hand
is the palm emblematic of martyrdom,
in the left tiny flask containing few
drops of the saints blood, dried to a
mere dust, and on the head a silver
diadem inlaid with jewels. The shoes
are of fur, and are not unlike Indian
moccasins.
This is the first genuine entire body
of saint ever brought to thisscountry,
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-07-24
THE EDUCATION OF PLANTS.

More than hundred years ago Jesuit
missionary found certain bark NOV
called calsaya or cinchona) In use among
the tribes OF Peru as cure for FEVER.
This led to the discovery OF quinine Its
alkaloid and active principle. Originally
Containing but a very small per centage
OF the active principle. the bark OF this
tree, under careful cultivation, now yields
several times the amount.
By the same method the Shakers OF Mt.
Lebanon IN. W have developed, both as
to quantity aud quality, the medicinal
principles of the herbs from which the
Shaker DlgestiveCordlal,t their well known
remedy for Indigestion and dyspepsia, Is
now made. They have persuaded nature
to do for suffering humanity vastly more
than she at first intended. As qhinine Is
without a rival In its own field so this
preparation of the Shakers is destined to
become, for all the ailments OF the diges-
tive tract,-now grouped under the gene
raj head of dyspepsia.
Some of the symptoms calling for its
use are as follows: Distress after eating;
sickness and nausea;. pains In the head,
chest, sides and back; foul taste IN the
mouth; costiveness and irregular action
of the bowels; variable appetite; sick
headache; ringing in the ears: palpita-
ton and heartburn; loss of sleep; the
''ndgets;" tired and weary feeling; sore
muscles; mental depression, etc.
To relieve and cure this universal dis
ease (the source of most others, the
Shaker Digestive Cordial is expressly
adapted. Like quinine II is speciality,
a specific. Its good effects are felt at
once. Unlike quinine 1t is pleasant to
the palate, always effective, never harm.
full. For this the Shakers pledge their
reputation as herbalists. And its success
thus far bears them out.
To settle whether 1t is what you need
try ten-cent bottle. For sale by nearly
all druggists.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-07-24
WEDNESDAY, JULY "a, 1895

There is no doubt that the vast
acreage Of productive land in this
state not under cultivation calls
for immigration OF the kind that
is not afraid OF the pillow and can
fit its hand to the handle Of a hoe,
but this want is not 80 great as to
require the flooding Of the state
with those speculative farmers
who cultivate the air instead Of the
earth. Texas wants manly men,
and has no end Of the unproduc-
tiv e bipeds whom she would glad
ly swap off for whole colonies Of
the right stripe Of producers. The
industrious and enterprising can
find any amount Of opportunities
open to them in this state and get
Tichin pushing them.
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-07-24
u remained untn IToI, wnen u WIS ru-
moved to the old Benedictine monastery
ID. -.

u remained untn ITo1, wnen u WIS TO
moved to the old Benedictine monastery
at Neustadt, Bavaria.
The fourth Sunday after Easter was
celebrated as the fete day of the saint
in Bavaria, and great crowds would
come and visit his shrine from all parts
of the country.
The Benedictines were driven from
Bavaria early in this century. Their
monastery and fertile lands were con-
fiscated. Later they were handed over
by the government to Count Won Lowen-
stein, who is still the virtual sovereign
of the entire domain. He restored the
monastery and called back the Bene-
dictines. In 1854 miracle occurred.
The church at Neustadt was burned and
everything persisted save the blessed
grinus. A new church was built. The
popularity of Peregrinus increased with
this evidence of the Almighty's pro-
lection.
Father Spielman, who is prominent
Renedictine, was in Neustadt last sum-
scented the body to him as representing
the new Church of st. Anselm at New
York, which is to be one of the hand
soonest edifices owned by the Benedic-
tine order.
The pastor at Neufeldt wept when he
was told of the proposed transfer, and
the bishop of Unerzburg at first OPP
posed it. But in the end the count pre-
vailed. Bishop and pastor issued the
necessary documents of Authorization,
the relic was sealed up, and, amid the
lamentations of the people, Father
Spielman took it with him to Bremen
and thence set sail for America.
The body of st. Peregrinus in its casket
is almost the exact length of the altar
where it is placed in st. Anseim's church.
A niche has been made for it beneath
the altar slab in the middle of the front
surface, and in this it fits evenly-its
front in line with the altar front, and
it's ends almost to the affairs ends.
The casket is of red wood on three
sides, but the entire front is of plate
glass. By this arrangement in its
present position. the body lies beneath
the altar slab, plainly visible. Anyone
who advances to the chancel rail to
genufect can see the body with entire
distinctuess, and it is more or less
visible from other positions
San Antonio daily light. [volume] (San Antonio, Tex.) 1886-1907, 1895-07-24
A BOON TO THE AFFLICTED.

Scientific analysis shows that
the Chaly beate waters of Dulinig's
we'll are possessed Of constituents
which are infallible in all diseases
Of the liver, kidneys and stomach,
the trinity of organs which control
the human system. They embrace
Natures own remedies. Why, then
dose your system with poisonous
drugs, when at your very door there
is remedy prepared for you
which will bring the bloom Of
health to the cheek, restore disor-
dered digestion, and build up the
vital forces? There is no remedy
like Dullnig's Chalybeate water for
the over-taxed or broken-down sys-
tenn. 1t can always be found, fresh
and sparkling, on tap at George j.
Dullnig's. 621 tt