davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1895-07-28

ished woi steds. to pave the way, no
doubt to the return to the diagonal wor-
steds at no distant day: me @ many new new
season will afford timely relief from the
necessarily correct black.
In n Soldan letter is the following re-
gadipg dess ties: In dress ties the but
terfy or ogee pattern has gone down be-
FORE the plain kind, which is still worn
very wide and large. think that the
any fancy type in evening dress ties, for
the reason that evening dress being
avowedly a uniform, good taste will usu-
ally bar eccentricities in it. Paris occas-
ionally indulges itself in vagaries
prompted by the resemblance OF dude
youth OF the French capital went in for
red dress ties year or two ago, but Paris
has too good a taste to take up such
horror, and the gently bred Parisian no
doubt shares the sentiment which, in
England. accounts for the disuse among
really smart people of devices intended to
effect the distinction indicated. namely
this, that gentleman who cannot be dis
tinguished by his bearing from a waiter
IS not worth the trouble distinguishing
from that ingenious artisan by any i'd
ventitious means.
Whether the following story from Mis-.
soula. Mont. is true or not, it is good,
0Au AkeA WAO now SuAiGS " az SAO SoHNS
OF laundrymen can appreciate the indig-
nation Of the gentlemen in trade whers
business was being interfsred with. It
seems that a steam laundry located in
Missoula has bad habit OF renewing the
neckbands on their patrons old shirts.
out OF the laundry was the result Of the
latter's ripping and tearing faculties. The
laundries ruined goods and that made
trade. But this is thing of the past in
Missoula, for an association has been
formed by the haberdashers. and they in:
tend to compel the lsundries to mend
their ways and not the shirts. The out
come of the organization meeting is the
Gents Furnishers' Protective association
of Missoula. A committee Of i've gents"
has waited on the laundfyman and de-
manded that he go out of the repairing
business ami sticK to his suds.
Under certain conditions and with GER
tain customs belt is necessary part of
a mans dress. One Of the principal OBJ
jections tu it has been its non.eiasticity,
which interfsres 90 materially with ths
free movement of the body. A Philadel-
phia 6rm has remedied this defect, how
The herald., 1895-07-28

tribe of summer girls cares to purchase
pair OF Cinderella feet with an agonized
countenance and purple hands. Summer
shoes should be bought at least half size
larger than winter ones.
Inc number OF pairs OF shoes a woman
should carry away with her depends upon
.se s"it OF summer sne expects to spend.
~ IL IS gay one of dances. tennis and
.eas' she must carry shoes for all such
occasions. II 1t is sort of camp life, she
VIII ~ not need Louis Quinze slippers.
Inc ordinary summer girl will need
IVY pairs OF tramping boots. They should
De low-heeled fairly broad at the toes and
fairly thick-soled. Laced shoes will
afford the ankles more even support
than buttoned ones. These shoes may be
tan or black as the wearer prefers. Two
pairs are necessary in case Of dampness.
A couple of pairs Of dainty shoes for
calling and driving are also necessary. A
pair OF slippers for ones room should be
taken. The athletic damsel should. OF
course, be provided with canvas shoes,
with rubber or cork soles. The dancing
girl should take three or four pairs OF
slippers-satin, suede aud patent leather.
A pair of worsted slippers for the bed
room form part of every woman's ward
robe, and even the girl who never dances
will need ope pair of frivolous slippers,
AS for stockings. every woman shorl
carry enough to enable her to change
them at least once day. There should
be dainty open-work Isle thread and silk
ones to wear with low shoes and slippers
AMI there should be plain Isle thread
IN ~ for ordinary wear. Black stockings
should be worn with black shoes only.
and tan stockings with tan shoes only. Ii
solored slippers are worn stockings to
match them must also be taken.
As nearly all Ir fashions are patterned
after those of London and Paris, it is well
for us to know what is doing in those
realms OF fashion.
find that garden party is the COM
mon form OF entertainment in Londcn,
Says TIE London correspondent of an
eastern journal. All London houses have
superb back gardens. shadowy, cool spots.
and if a function IS planned. il usually
resolves itself into cup of tea in the
garden. where the women wear very deli
cate and effective toilettes. The garden
party at the large estates near London
The herald., 1895-07-28

that by redundancy Of color. 1t was
almost bright purple, and would have
delighted the soul of the end man in
minstrel show. Naturally. most people
looked askance at these novel suits, and
every man visitor asserted that under no
circumstances could he be induced to wear
one or the other. ::Said one OF the exhibit
ors. not the maker of the suits:
Personally l am in favor OF colors for
evening wear. They would give bright.
ness to a gathering OF men,. and would
also afford an opportunity for the dis
play Of individual taste. However, the
public is not ready for such clothes yet.
Men will come to it in time, and then
they will wonder why they clung to black
SO long,
There is some very good reading in the
report of the committee OF the society.
Now, who but tailor, for instance. was
ever able to distinguish this season S
dress suit from lasts? Yet there is dit
ference, for We are told that while the
stereotyped character OF the dress coat
leaves less leeway for radical or abrupt
departures from the conventional lines.
still the trained eve will nevertheless
notice the CHI anges brought about from
season to season, slight though they may
be. Thus. this season the lapel will De
less curved or rounded at the outer edge,
while the lapel and front seams will be
cut to retain the iull open effect, similar
to that OF the waistcoat. This is pro-
duced by following the seam Of the fore
parts and sewing on the lapels rather
long. The peaked lapel front will have
The herald., 1895-07-28

than ever attractive. The young wo-
man of today has wide range of choice.
If she elects to wear black slippers nav
ing jet or jeweled buckles she chooses
pair of ali-over lace black stockings, tho
pattern of the lacs being outlined in
raised silk threads on the outside: stock.
ings made of pure silk, SO fine and glossy
and elastic that it is a pleasure to behold
them. If she does not like them all-over
lace. only the intsep and ankle may ba Of
oren work in some delicate designs, while
the upper half of tina stocking may be
barred in rich Roman colors or of some
soft tint of sea green. corn color or pink.
Some of the prettiest stockings. in both
black and colOred silks. and IN Isle
thread have lengthwise stripes of inser-
tion extending up over the instep and
cirs ular bands above. to accentuate the
supple curves of the ankle. Heavily
The herald., 1895-07-28

her Partisan fiock. for from Paris it
came. 1t was white taffeta silk sprayed
with tiny blue flowers. and the whole
sheen of the silk was like silver white.
Fashioned cleverly and simply. yet it was
one of the daintiest there. The skirt was
untrimmed, save for the black velvet
band which was fastened about the waist.
The bodice was dream OF beauty. 1t
had loose Paquin front, or rather a
suggestion of it. as the 1.-the, graceful fig
ure was enhanced by every line OF the
waist. and the French back had the soft
folds drawn down in the severest, hattest
way to very narrow plaits. Black velvet
was used for a full collar. and the le. Of
mutton sleeves he'd taring cuff lined
with the velvet, turned back on one side.
On the front box pait three superb steel
buttons were placed, and on the black
vlevet collar. toward one side. were two
OF these buttons. If such style of frock
BILE summer life. copy this gown by
all means.
1t sounds. perhaps a bit elaborate, but
can assure you 1T was SO simple and
girlish as to make it absolutely the per-
lection of dainty frock.
The shops are filled with inexpensive
silks, and to obtain a white fiowered one
and to trim il with just touch of the
black would, | am sure, be satisfactory.
Her hat was large black Marie Antoin-
ette, with ribbon drawn around the
crown. finishing at the back with a broad
bow, the ends of which touched the soft
coils of her red brown hair. From
buckle ON the high-pointed crown fell
several feathers. and this picturesque
bat cast delightful shadows over her pret-
The herald., 1895-07-28

boots is sold in a popular shoe store.
twenty pairs Of ties or butto1ed shoes are
disposed of.
The jewelers. have brought out dainty
little shoe tie clasps. all chased and fill
greed, tnat look unique on the summer
girls russet or canvas shoes. and the shoe
stores show the clasps in less costly and
of women like to learn how to tie the
strings, so that they may he independent
of the clasp. An authority on shoes
predicts that the razor tip shoe and boot
will not remain much longer. Already
the toes are a trine sauarer, and the sen.
sible women select square toes and fiat
heels for tramps in the country or weari-
some shopping expeditions. The French
heel and pointed toe yet remain prime
favoritss for the ball room. for opera, and
for ordinary evening wear.
! The young person known to fame as
the summer girl, If she is far-sighted,
pays particular heed to her footgear. She
The herald., 1895-07-28

ever. and has brought out the champion
comfort belt, that is, from hip to hip, it is
made OF elastic web, which gives to every
motion OF the stomach. The front of the
belt is made of non-elastic material. which
supplies the necessary sse strength myth ana auI-
one to make the belt any, size required.
The belt is fastened over the left hip by
simple clasp. These belts come in various
coloYs.
Some of the new sailor suits for boys
are the dalntiest littlc garments that
could possibly be imagined. They are
shown with long and short pants. in
white red or navy. with collars Of the
same or contrasting colors, and also with
extra adjustable wash collars. Collars and
shields are sold separately as well, so that
by changing them the little men can
have as many suits as they please. The
Particularly D M those in plain white or navy
with trimmed collars or cuffs, and the
little blazer suits with blue serge coats
and white duck trousers are as effective
as they are useful. Boys bathing suits
ares made of Jersey this year, IN two
pieces and untrimmed: last year they
They are sold for little tots as young as
8 years:
The Thelma is the name of tie which
is described as four-legged, as there are
four instead of two wide parts. The ex
ira pair. little narrower than the 9th
ers, are sewn under tho latter. the neck
portion being single. You make up the
tie by first settling this neck part in or
on the collar, tying the lower part of the
wide parts, which can be pinned or clip
ped down upon the shirt il preferred.
The other two flaps are then brought into
position with exactly as much or as little
fullness as the taste OF the tver or the
habit OF the hour may determine and Sc
cured by the usual gold safety pin.
Sack coats are still the favorites for
business use and lounging, and as they
are universally becoming there is no rea-
son why they should not remain so.
When cut double breasted only solid col
ors should be used, as plaids, checks or
The herald., 1895-07-28

ty face. White gIace kid gloves and .
lorgnon of silver suspended from a pearl
chain were the last touches of harmony
for the toilette.
| am noticing more every day the com.
ing into vogue of the panelled skirt. Sew
eral were worn at this function. and one
OF apple-green silk had panel at either
side OF heavy plated crepon fitted in,
narrow at the waist and haring down to.
ward the bottom of the skirt.
The bodice had full! front OF this white
crepe. and the lar and cuffs were OF
white MORE ribbon. while the finish
around the waist consisted In fold q
ribbon, with short stiff bow at the bacl.
AS she walkeri the effect of the gracefl
plated panels was noticeable, and Il
was carefully carried out The bonn 1
was merely a rim of green straw, with
full wreath of white roses topping it, ard
1t was worn far back on the head. 1t was
The herald., 1895-07-28

The tailors ana haberdashers OF Now
York are not disposed to submit to the
dictum that every good thing comes from
across the water. The merchant iallors
of that city have society which annually
exhibits the correct thing in dress.
This year g exhibition had IN it some
wonderfully fine effects in mems goods.
and some really stunning things in even
ing clothes. Many firms were represe Mt
ed. and each exhibited something orig
inal in idea, or cut.
Two sui.s OF clothes were particularly
noticeaF.s. One was OF soft. undressed
goods of wine color: it had velvet COL
lar on the coat and waistcoat. The othor
lacked the velvet finish, but made up for
The herald., 1895-07-28

che preference this season. and will be
covered, as we'll as the collar, with facing
silk or SATIN. Sume velvet collars were
worn last season, but they are better
adapted for winter than summer. The
skirt of the dress coat, while still cut with
spiked. tail effect, will sh.w less evasion
at the bottom. The edges are plain or
stitched very close the sleeves are finished
With real cuff and two holes and buttons;
only one buttonhole is worked on the
troll when the latter Is Of silk or satin,
ana it should be of size to admit a
5outonniere.
The committee IN its report says tnat
in cuta way coats there is declded ten
dency to revert to the use Of the shorter
coat. principally because in the matter
OF lengths extremes have been indulged
III tv such an extent that they are ridicu-
lous. The business coat or the cutaway
description will be cut still fuller at the
front OF the skirts and should have flaps
and roomy pockets at the sides in fact. its
general character should paItake oil the
English shooting coat style. In speaking
of the froCk coat the committee says that
its popularity has been maintained "in
the face of efforts of some bunglers to
turn it into a garment which was Mother
an ulster nor nightshirt, but possessed
the characteristics OF both. There is no
garment which has been sinned against
So much as the frock coat. We have seen
il topped off with derby hat, and in
some cases tanned shoes added to its pic
turesqueness. Shades OF Beau Brummel p
After which series of deserved rebukes
the report proceeds: "An outside breast
pocket adds t. the appearance of the frock
coat, and is, therefore, to be encouraged.
The lapels, though well peaked, SHOULD
have decidedly less outside curve and
should show two holes on roll; three to
\utton. The silk or satin lining is carried
I,1vvo ptnbI r. bo tn1n rn
finished plain or stitched close. oil braid
or cord effects being still avoided for the
present. The skirt il fulled or V'd to pre-
vent straining OH the hips when bnttoned
while walking. The sleeves are finished
with real cuff and two holes and buttons.
ietl. etc.. are giving way to the un6n'
The herald., 1895-07-28

studies slippers and she sreculaies on
spats. Hosiery becomes her hobby. and
Gie question OF boots she considers we'll.
For the far-sighted summer girl realizes
that her feet are more on exhibition dur
ing the hammock and row boat season
than at any other time. And shc under
stands also that her comforc and conse-
quentJy her comeliness aud charm de-
pend upon wise choice of shoes. as
The first thing which the far-s sIghted
summer girl needs to- impress upon her
mind Is that pretty feet do not neces-
sarily mean small shoes. ana that COM
Portable feet do decidedly demand large
ones. Heat expands feet as we'll as other
things. Tight shoes on hot feet mean
agony, and not even the vainest OF the
The herald., 1895-07-28

graceful folds around her slight tgu .,
fhe bodice was very cleverly trimmed
with lace and touch of crocus yellow
velvet. So French and successful is that
com bination-grav and yeilow-that |
urge it's use. but be sure and get Just that
beautiful shade of crocus yellow. A tooue
of gray. with yellow only visible at one
side, was dainty placed on the soft white
hair. which only adds another charm to
Mrs. Palmer's beautiful face-clcar cut
like a cameo, with earnest, sympathetic
brown eyes. A clever touch with the grey
toilette was the wearing of the immense
wnite pearl drops in her ears.
With Mrs. Palmer | noticed tall Juno
like girl of very smart appearance. She
wore her clothes so well that they at once
Impressed you with the fact of being abso-
lut .ly correct. A great knack is TINS.
woman should always put on her things
carefully. Anything in the world can be
tolerated as far as q woman's personal ap-
pearance is concerned rather than slip
shod manner OF wearing her gowns.
This TALL beauty carried off superbly
The herald., 1895-07-28

ribbed stockings are shown in all colors
in alternate thick and thin stripes. and
black stockings embroidered in colors in
geometrical figures and delicate flower
patterns, are displayed in great variety.
Tan coIored stockings, to wear with the
serge and russell shoes so popular now, do
not run much to ornament, but are pretty
because OF their shape and substantial
qualities. The prettiest outing shoes for
women are made of oxide kid. rich.
warm brown in shade and exceedingly
smooth and glossy. This material came
into use only this season, and is more
expensive even than the French kid, tho
charm of novelty neing =addea to its
other attributes. There is return to the
buttoned shoe. which is sharing favor
with the laced one. but the buttons do
not seem to fit into, or ,; t,er up to, the
curve OF the insteps as h,lacing does.
At this season, whore enc pair of high
The herald., 1895-07-28

stripes are only suitable for single
breasted effects.
Collars of the Tango and "Sabana'
type are still worn very high two and
quarter or two and three quarter inches.
There are also still in wear collars Of the
same height with turned over corners OF
large size. Indeed. the rule seems to be
that there shall be either no turned cor.
ners at all or enormously large ones. An
gular and rounded shapes are about
equally preferred.
An illustration OF an odd collar is CIV
en-: II was introduced by London firm
button-hole, the points being made to
stard out over the band. The object is
to secure the bow. which ID securely held
~ place BY the protruding points. The
idea has been patented.
The herald., 1895-07-28

is now IN order and will continue for at
least month. Even if a musicale is Civ
en- In the draying-room you will always
find the tea tables out in the gardens, and
people sitting about listening to the
music which floats out through the great
open easements leading to the porch:
like this way of entertaining. 1t is SIM
pie and free. One listens to the music. or
strolls out to chat and have refresh
ments. The frock is always pretty for this
occasion. and English women know more
q bout this toilette than any other. Every
ore attends in light gowns. At a recent
musicale ana garden party at mouse
near Hyde Park saw one of Americas 8
beautiful women, MEs. Potter Palmer,
who is such success here: Her gown
ing, always so perfect, was on this occa-
sion of pale grey crepon-a crepon as
wrinkled as lizards skin. It was made
with plain skirt. needing. however, no
adornment so perfectly did it hang in
The herald., 1895-07-28
Some Chic Things the. Up
tO-Date Women Are
Now Wearing
A STUDY OF; LONDON STYLES
We Follow London and Paris in the
Matter of Dress and Here Is What
They Are Now Wearing on
the Other Side

Few fashions of recent Introduction are
mora fetching than that of wearing
pretty jeweled buckles on the slippers.
Dainty satin slippers and artistic pro-
ductions Of the hosier's art are also more
The herald., 1895-07-28

Criss-Cross Insertion
finished at either side with several white
rosebuds falling coquettishly down on
the hair near the ear. The parasol, of
white with bands of green, and handle.
also Of white. with a monogram wrought
in green ename. Stockings. OF course,
are the most da .ntv worn with these CO.'S
tumes.
The herald., 1895-07-28

A West Philadelphia laundrcss announc.
cs her skill in ironing by the sign: ''Col-
laring and cutting neatly done.'
Rocky Ford enterprise., 1895-02-14
Graz. for Old Masters.

ANY one who, few years ago, would
have foretold the return, in our day of
the traditional American craze for
spurious "old masters" would have
been laughed to scOrn. 1t might, In
deed, have been supposed that the hard
lesson that was taught some rich New
Yorkers, when, after a few years
proud possession, they sent to auction
or otherwise tried to ..realize on their
"titians," "Da Vincis," "Correggios
and "Murillos," would not SO soon have
been forgotten. But one generation Is
not apt to learn from the follies of an
other, even II the other be only SO
recent as the generation Immediately
preceding 1t.
Everybody knows everything about
pictures to-day-or thinks he does. So
we find that some of our wisest "art
patrons" are just as much the dupes OF
the keen-witted dealers as their fathers
and their grandfathers were before
them. The chief difference is that
now, rejecting the fashions of London
and Paris, the rage is for ''early Eng
lish" and old Dutch and Flemish mas
ters, while formerly it was for the
Italian and Spanish schools.-The Art
Amateur.
Rocky Ford enterprise., 1895-02-14
Literary Notes

An unusual diversity is shown in the
contents OF The Century for February.
Prof. Sloane's Napoleon" which con-
tinues to be the leading feature of the
magazine, reaches the period of Ma
pOleOn's first success as an author In
the famous pamphlet, 1.-The Supper Of
Beaucaire," his appointment as ia
Goblin general, and his mission to
Genoa. The Illustrations include re-
productions of rare portraits and Of
notable paintings by contemporary and
modern artists, and special drawings
made by Castaigne and Pape. The
first detailed account that has yet been
given of the murder Of Emin Pasha is
contributed by Mr.. r. Dorsey Mohun,
United States agent in the Congo Free
State. Through the information of his
sergeant, who was a member Of the
Emin relief expedition under Stanley,
Mr.. MOhun was enabled to arrest two
of Emin's assassins, and he skillfully
extracted confession from them be-
fore they were executed. The story of
the tragedy Is told in their own graph
ic language. Mr.. Victor Louis Mason,
confidential attache of the board Of
ordnance and fortification, writes an
authoritative account of 1.-THE Weapons
of the United States Army" with
many Illustrations. Mr.. Mason be-
lieves that when the new magazine
rifles have been issued the United
States will have one of the best
equipped armies in the world. Mrs.
Annie Fields gives dignified and low
ing revelation of DIR. Oliver Wendell
Holmes private life. The paper In
cludes about dozen original letters
Of DR.. Holmes, and sets forth his rela.
tiOnS to many of the literary men of
his time. The genial humor Of the Au-
tocrat pervades all of the letters. Ma
rion CrawfOrd's novel, "Casa Braccio,"
ment of a nun from an Italian convent
physician. This chapter has more Of
of dramatic intensity than anything
Mr.. Crawford has attempted previous
ly. In Mrs. Burton Harrison's novel
cite, "An Errant Wooing," the scene
changes to picturesque Tangier. Noah
Brooks continues his anecdotal recol-
lectfons Of Lincoln, with particular ref
erence this month to Secretary Chase
and General Grant. Sir Edwin Ar
mold is represented by a dramatic
poem, 1.-THE Passing of Muhammad,"
describing the death of the Prophet Of
Arabia. A stirring Montenegrin war
ballad, "Luka Philapov," is versified
by Robert Underwood johnson from
the Servian of Zmai, and is illustrat-
ed by r. Cation Woodville. A timely
symposium on the forestry question,
with contributions by thirteen eminent
advocates Of forestry preservation, in
dorses Prof. Sargent's plan Of giving
the care of forest preserves to the war
department.