New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-15

Beauty and charm not alone gifts OF nature;
they are responsibilities which must be lived up
TO- so II the reader Will accept my definitions OF
the term. want to describe some gowns that have
atmosphere"
In the first place the couturieres have ceased for
the moment to display autumn modes. They have
taken their foreign orders and their workpeope are
busy in filing them The Parisienne will not think
OF or look at autumn and winter gowns for a good
month yet. for with her it q still the summer sea-
son, the best season for gay butterflies. She may
wish for few new sets Of wings, but they must
not in the least suggest the cold winter, although
they must be fashioned OF the newest and most
beautiful stuffs IN the market and cut and ar
ranged in novel ways.
Some OF the new sturs are very lovely and are
truly suggestive Of butterflies wings Doucet has
a charming material Ii Is a very pale yellow SILK
crepe with rich scarlet and dull yellow nasturtiums
trailing over IT. There are green leaves, too. so
thai the whole tding Is ike an exquisite flower
painting Il is trimmed with great deal of yell
low lace and insertion, and green ribbon Is run
through the ns triton, tying every few inches In
smart little square bow A trimming Of this is ar
ranged in waves about the bottom OF the skirt
The elbow sleeves trimmed with double rufie
OF the lace and insertion and tiny ribbon bows on
the outside OF the arm; and this rufie extends
across the shoulder seams and loses Itself In the
elaborate choker which Is a double frill or lace
rising high in the back but ending front leave
several inches OF the throat exposed The choher
is held at intervals by ribbon bows; and the effect
of all OF this soft lace about the throat and running
over the shoulders is charming. The rest Of the
bodice is lad in soft folds show the beauty OF
the silk 10 the best advantage.
Another hower-gown has loose punches OF purple
vioets with their green leaves a black crepe
ground. with a satin stripe running through H. The
skirt is untrmmed and is soft and full rather than
haring II is hung a foundation. and doubt
very much II even the foundation is stiffened one
is at liberty to a skirt pretty much to
suit ones figure and inclinations. This gown
is intended be worn In the evening, perhaps Tor
a simple dinner dress. and the neck Is cut in
very pretty and modest deco.letage. 1t is cut
straight across back and front. only few inches
below the base Of the throat. and leaves the whole
TOD OF the shoulders bare. This Is very becom-
ing cut for plump figure with rather high bust
The short sleeves. hardly reaching TO the elbows.
are OF green mousseline de sole. coming from I'M
der short full wings OF the fancy crepe. Above
this are two accordion pleated frills OF the green
one an inch deeper than the other. and these friis
extend about the deco.etage and form cascades
down each side OF a narrow pointed vest In the
front OF the corsage. This vest is Of jet mounted
on green velvet and the double pleatng does not
extend across the top OF the vest tiny jet edge
being the only finish. The bottom OF the basque
shaped corsage (Which. however extends only bit
over the waist line on the sides and makes tiny
points front and back is finished with a twist OF
jetted blackssatn ribbon.
one must grow enthusiastic over the beautiful
lowered silks and sat.ns and velvets this season.
The designs were never beautiful the flowers
so nfelike one is reminded OF lovely Madeleine
Lemaire fan which by-the-way. Is the very smart
est thing one can have now. and has been included
in several royal trousseaus lately.
The lowered velvets and satins rather more
fashionable now than the silks and a magnificent
stuff has white satin ground with raised velvet
roses and leaves in a loose vine pattern running
over IT, A beautiful gown has odd cape ar
rangement Of this. the body OF the gown being
OF heavy white satin.
The skirt with the exception OF the front breadth
which is straight and very narlng Is laid In hat
side plests. each pleat being outlined by row OF
dainty pearl trimmings The bodice Is basque
shaped with fitted box peat front and back over
the shoulders II pointed cape OF the fancy veNet
which rises form a farng Medici collar This
cape IL edged all about with pearl-embrodered
cream lace. The cape is cut into very narrow tabs
in front. which extend down TO the waist line
under the box-peat. and are held there with TWO
pearl and diamond ornaments. These tabs gradu-
ally widen and fall down on the skirt on each slde
pear-studded lace The box -pleat forms the choker
In front ard IL fastened the Medici collar with
small pearl and diamond buttons. TWO on each
side. The sleeves OF the satin with high.
tigat cuff 10 the elbow. The whole cum Is covered
with al embroidery Of pearls with brilliant scat.