The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-06-30
THE WOMhN
OF FASHION.

~ ~ vi -
Paris. June 2O.-Monsieur Felix was kind
enough to grant me an interview. I
asked him first about the present.
For the summer gown, the garden par
~ gown-and the summer gown is pre-
eminently the garden-party gown this sea
son'-he began. I'VE are using a great
deal of embroidered gauze. Particularly
are the striped black and white GAUGES,
with a small embroidered flower on one
Of the stripes, very popular. made over
white silk foundation. But not only black
and white. but every light color is in great
demand, both in stripe and embroidery.
The skirts are made very full and very
simple, with but little lace. Embroidery is
what we use. dainty. sheer embroidery.
made after the colors and style of the ma
terials of the gown.
Embroidered batiste is also used, made
up in very much the same way. Where
richer effects are desired we make the
sleeves and belt in brocade of the same
tints-a brocade in large pattern.
4 ANAuof 41dllt 4AiAAOlItlAt StlAts uIdUtu
effects. pointed bibs. with rufies-all of
these are on the summer gown. 1t is
above all things youthful and simple. The
skirt always has a flounce. l will show
you one or two"
And he brought forth an exquisite con-
feetion," as the French would say, of fine
pompadour batlste, pale tinted, made over
cream silk. A cream lace fiounce, rather
deep at the skirts edge was surmounted
by some half a dozen fine tucks. The
bodice was well-nigh covered by a pale
blue iichu, Marie Antoinette, that was
crossed in both back and front, and was
edged with deep cream lace. The fichu
tied in a bow at the back the ends falling
to the edge of the skirt. At the front the
crushed blue ribbon that formed a belt
tied in a small bow. The elbow sleeves
were alternate blue muslin and lace in
sertion.
Another of lavender batiste was even
simpler with its gathered skirt, trimmed
with a founce of the same material head
ed by a ruche A pointed yoke of lace,
leaving the neck slightly open, was edged
with a lace ruti1e, and from benath the
ruffle started broad bands of white ribbon
that spread out as they fell to the bottom
of the skirt, confined at the waist by
very small white twist. White loops
spread across the shoulders.
Then he showed me a black and white
Pekin, made somewhat more deliberately rs
regards the cut of the skirt, which was
sstiffoaed at the back, and the very big and
numerous loops of white satin that spread
over the sleeves puffs. The white Marie
Antoinette hchu was here caught up in a
full, round effect over the bosom, and the
lace draped to fall in a modest jabot be-
low.
"But later" l asked him anxiously,
what are you going to do in the fall?'
"Ah," he replied with his discreet smile.
I'VE cannot talk of that till we have seen
our fall materials. But this much l can
tell you. We shall make no more godeted,
no more stffened skirts. No, the skirt
is beautiful is perfect, the first time mn-
dame puts it on. But after that! Ali,
well, it can never be the same. There
must be a plat, a wrinkle somewhere
that does not belong there. 1t cannot be
avoided.
What the new skirt will be l do not
know 1t will be a fitted skirt Of course.
1t will probably-at least the watkins
skirt-be close and tight fitting about the
hips.
1--WE have already begun to modify our
sleeves in the gowns we are making for
the late summer. The puffs are much
smaller.
I'm the evening gown the godet and
the stiffening have already been aban-
doned. Everything there is Louis Quinze"
And he took me into a small alcove, where
the electric light fell on two exquisite
models.
The skirt of the first attracted me at
once. The plain panel of white satin right
in front was overlaid each side with rich
Venetian point, with the petals of the
blossom lightly bedlamoned. A little or
the satin was left plain, just in the CEN
ter of the panel, the lace spreading slight
~ as it descended
The back and the sides Of the skirt or
heavy white pompadour, with great pink
clusters, were all gathered closely at the
back and closely over the hips. The bodice
was indeed a Louis Quinze, positively re-
freshing after the host of blouses one
has gazed a. for the last two seasons. Its
white satin back, cut rather low, was
only slightly pointed at the bottom. III
front 1t stretched in long, slender point,
well over the skirt. A large, round rever
that Widened out as ii approached the
sleeve. falling there at each side In a
talbot, was covered with the lace OF tbs
skirt; and slender twists of white tulle
were carried down the sides of the bodice,
pointing in front.
| forgot TO say tQat the ShlTl Sptedu Jul
very fun, the richness of the material well
sustaining it, and did little more than
touch the floor There was no train.
The other was a perfect water green
satin. 1t also had the front panel COW
cred with what seemed al first glance to
be an applique of lace-like braid But II
was not; each thread had been embroi-
dered there, and the rims and scrolls were
intermingled with pearls. Here the heavy
satin came over the hips in similar style.
The bodice was also similarly, cut, with
the long point in front; but there were no
revers Instead, a big fichu of embroider-
ed chiffon was gathered across the front,
caught up at the shoulders in innumera-
bic tiny pufings, and more Of these chiffon
gathers formed a tiny substitute for
sleeve. At the back the fichu was carried
down the center, spreading slightly and
Dointing at the belt decollete between.
About the lower edge of the bodice in
sertions Of point were set In, pointing up
ward.
''AIl of our fancy bodices," he went OBJ
ligingly on. ARE losing the blouse aspect.
Even this one Of puffy chiffon is almost
tight fitting"
And it was. The folds were carried al
most tightly into the point. Above. how
ever. there was no appearance Of close
fitting. It was a perfect garland of chif-
fon that was carried across the bosom,
and in between the folds slipped out
aounce of lace Puffy arrangements and
lace rufIies made a small sleeve and filed
\ --4~T