Evening capital. (Annapolis, Md.) 1884-1910, 1895-02-12

One of the features of cosmopolitan
San Francisco is its restaurants Every
foreign colony boasts of place where
its native cooking can be had, and adj
yenturous San Franciscans who care Co
look these places mp can dine IN the
manner of different country every
night in the week If an elaborate Chi
uese dinner. with its numberless impos-
gible courses, each accompanied by
sweetmeats, proves unattractive, Ha-
waiian dinner. with poi and salted fish,
can be had by walking few blocks
For those who like highly spiced din
ners there are the Italian and Spanish
restaurants to choose from. and for those
with small appetites. who look for nov
city in service. there are the Turkish
restaurants. with their unpronounceable
dishes and delicious coffee
The most popular of the foreign res
taurants are the Italian. There are sew
eral of these scattered about the Latin
quarter, which are much frequented by
San Franoiscans on account of the excel
lence of the cooking Most Of them are
dirty, very dirty. as 70 floors aud walls,
and the Italians are not oversqueamish
regarding the table linen. When party
of Americans enter, however, there Is a
general shuttle among the walters to Sc
cure the service of the table and the
prospective tip The question of prece-
dence being settled, the wine stained
tablecloth is whisked off and replaced by
one not always newly Numbered or else
suspiciously damp.
These restaurants are rarely on the
main streets and have to be approached
through dark alleys. One situated be-
hind the county Jail occupies the back
room of small Italian grocery store.
In going there one is reminded of dark
deeds and sharp stilettos. but the dim
ner is worth the journey. The chef Of
this place is famous for cooking Italia
rini. paste made by himself and cut
in strips and cooked with sauce made
of tomatoes, spices and mushrooms
1t is extremely rich and very peppery,
but all Italian dishes are strongly dashed
with chill peppers.
The dinner is attended with great
ceremony. A bottle of their sour claret
is served with each dinner. Every Ital-
ian drinks about two quarts of it with
his dinner. SO the bottle supply some
times runs short. In this event the
waiter goes to the bar, fills an empty
bottle from demijohn, drives in cork,
and then carries the bottle to the table
where it is needed, sometimes four feet
from the bar, and impressively produo-
ing his oorkscrew draws the cork as
carefully as though he were handling the
finest burgundy. His demeanor is so Sc
rious throughout the performance that
one dare not look amused.
A very popular restaurant is Baz-
zuro's, which is situated near the water
front This is greatly patronized by the
Italian fishermen, who file in after their
days work, still wearing their gum
boots and smelling strongly Of their
craft 1t is also frequented by the Ital-
ian vegetable gardeners. who drive in
from the outskirts of town, and after dis
posing Of their stock stop to dine. When
the place is reasonably we'll filled. there
is a babel of voices They are all talk
ing at once. and out of the confusion
the word scudi" is distinguished above
all others.
This means money, which the Pre-
prietor says. with a shrug, they talk
about all the time. all the time. The
fishermen bring the best of their day s
catch here, and the gardeners offer their
choicest vegetables. The chef, whose
kitchen is back of the dining tables and
in full view of the room. is a merry fell
low, and between his Juggling feats, toss
ing his pan into the air to turn the cook
ing fish or meat exchanges gossip and
jests with the diners This place is
kept comparatively clean. The floor is
covered with sawdust and the ceiling
festooned with gaudy colored paper cut
in fanoiful designs. Two parrots add to
the general din, and all sorts and con-
ditions of cats prowl around the floor.
The restaurant is conducted by two
brothers, one of whom waits on table,
while the other attends bar and looks
after the cash receipts. Every Italian
after dining stops at the bar for chat
and drink. Instead of liquor. the
host pours generous glasses of claret foI
himself and his guests. and these are
speedily tossed off. A casual visitor. aft
en- witnessing this ceremony about %
times in quick succession, is apt to grow
nervous about the health Of the host,
but he appears none the worse for his
conviviality at the end Of the evening.
The younger brother sometimes relieves
| his brother at the bar. He is quite as
hospitable, and his invariable drink be-
ing absinthe and seltzer his case seems
even more alarming
| This restaurant. at 1880 in the even
ing. when dinner is in full swing, pre-
sents an odd sight. the Italians sitting
| around the tables. most of them with
| their hats ON, gesticulating and talking
/ excitedly across the room, while they
roll the spaghetti round their forks and
dexterously transfer IL in yard length:
to their mouths. A butcher. with al
| the marks Of his trade about him. occu
l pies a table with the policeman ON the
beat. who gets the best service of all; /,
| few men about town, who have heard d
the chefs fame. and forget the unsavorJ
looking company in their enjoyment d
the plates. and often table or two takeI
by young society girls with their chap
eron and escorts. The girls consider /
dinner az Bazznro's q tremendous lark
The Americans do not venture on tn
clafet SO generously sery I'D with the din