davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16

tulno Il useful aud most becoming ono.
Numbered with pretty novelties for
theater wear and illustrating tho sense,
icss fad for lace and fur combination
aro drcssy collars OF Venetian point lace
edged all around with band OF sable
Another fancy Ia n sable boa fastened at
tho back and I'm 'front.' exhibiting q huge
bow OF plated chiffon edged with lace.
New bOaA art longer than those Of last
season. while NUNS Are AmAller and arc
faced inside with fur. MuffA an usual,
aro made in fur To match tho Jacket,
coat or cape with which they Are worn.
A unique costume for street wear CON,
hsts OF . coat. wAistcoat and skirt OF
that variety III astrakhAn called caraoule.
ALICE VARNUM.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
Ladies' Column.

In entering upon the New
Year, we do so realizing that
nothing can give the intelli-
gent or iudicious buyers more
satisfaction than to have us
stick to our QUICK SALES
AND SMALL PROFITS SYS-
TEN. It has been the means
of saving them money on
every purchase made of us.
While To us it has increased
our trade nfrom the day we
adopted it.
We will have no shelves for
shop worn goods, NEW
GOODS. GOOD GOODS, Sly
LISH GOODS, and plenty of
them, with q reasonable price
fixed on them will be the
order of this coming years
business. We want your trade
and will have it, il goods and
prices have anything to do
with your buying.
We propose to keep in touch
with New York, Paris and
London, at as near their prices
as is consistent.
Each DEPARTMENT in
STORE will be found to con-
tain q CHOICE and VARIED
SELECTION of the NEWEST and
most FASHIONABLE MATERIALS
and GARMENTS Of every des-
cription. We want you to get
into the habit of expecting
this, and inspecting our stock.
1t will save you time, trouble
and money.
This week we have some
fine INDIAN RUGS, some CAR.
PETS and CURTAINS that you
will make no mistake by buy
ing.
The contest over our Vol
cano Trip closed Wednesday.
Miss. ). TANNER, Royal School,
presented US 275 checks. many
of which she collected from
her friends, thus enabling her
to secure the ticket. Miss
Greenwald came in a good
second with 1876 checks.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16

does go slowly, and new styles present
themselves occasionally, while old ones
are revised and improved for our mod
ern taste. The fashion writer in the
New York Sun tells that ordinary shoes
of black kid and patent leather for
street wear do not vary much in style
from season to season, and the toe,
which is more pointed than ever, seems
to be the place of difference. High
shoes, laced ON the side, after the man.
ner of mems shoes, with studs about
half way up, are said to be coming in
again.
But it is the evening shoes which as
sumo the various forms and fancies of
color, material and trimming so tempt
ing to all womankind. The latest de-
cree of fashion is that the shoes and
stockings shall match the gloves in
stead of the gown Satin slippers of all
colors are still worn, but the newest
designs in evening shoes are of suede
and glossy kid.
The Louis Seize shoe is one of the
prime favorites, made in tan glace kid,
with strap over the instep formed OF
two hearts linked together and true
AOfCAS AnOl, dlL CdILACO OAO VIII 1lhS
beading. A pretty low cut shoe Of black
suede, strapped over the instep and fas-
tened with brilliant rhinestone buckles.
is worn with black gowns. An ideal
evening shoe, which Is sure to make a
pretty foot look prettier, is Of bronze
kid daintily embroidered with pink
crystal beads. For real comfort there is
the bedroom slipper of soft leather in
gray, tan or black, lined with flannel
and edged with fur. The latest fancy in
a black satin slipper is lined with rose
pink silk and edged all around the open
ing rs we'll as the toe with an elaborate
design in Jet.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
ETCHING on SIX.

A FAAhioAAbIs Fad-Its Resulta In Bsaa-
tlfal Articles FOF FAirs AAd otfSa.
The present fashionable etching work
10 in reality only kind Of pen and ink
drawing. chiefly in outlines, without
much effort at shading, In this respect
10 must always diner from orayon draw.
ing. since tho ink would DO certain 10
run and blot II shading were attempted.
thus spelling the whole effcot Of the dc-
sign.
Tho silk needs no preparation. except
that it should DO we'll stretched, 10 g.
TO present IN unyielding surface. Tho
best way 10 do this Is To take piece Of
wood and place sheet Of cardboard
over it and tho silk on top Of that,
which may be fastened down with draw
ing pins or taoks. India ink will work
very nicely and also liquid cobalt and
vandyko brown. Fine crow quilts, glass
pens or gold pens will DO tho best To-
etch with. In beginning tho piece let
the shape be marked out and then pro-
coed TO the otohing with a steady but
light touch, for IL you bear on too hard
the ink will DO apt to run, and thus tho
delicate character Of the drawings will
Beautiful fans may be prepared In
this way, and the owners Of handsome
carved ivory fans can have them reoov-
cred with one Of these etched designs,
making them equal to new at very
small expense. TO do u fam let the
shape be marked and then cut 1t out,
using any colored silk you may choose,
but for colored silk use only india ink.
A white silk fan, done with delicate
sprays running mp the spaces. looks very
pretty. Chatelaine bags are also pretty
and covers for toilet cushions, satchels,
aprons, lambreQuins, watch cases, etc.
The better and closer the texture and
quality OF the silk the easier il will be
TO work upon. and Of course tho more
beautiful will be the effect Many bean
tiful articles for fairs or gifts may be
made from little scraps Of silk, and
among the larger ones, requiring more
material and labor, we may mention
screens. sofa pillows, banners for church
decorations, table covers. etc. Modern
Priscilla
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
Velvet and Fur Season.

The winter of 1s94-5 bids fair to be
n velvet and fur season
Waists and entire dresses are made of
velvet and skirts and coats Of cara
cul, " the fine soft astrakhan which is so
fashionable this year. In combination
with ermine it makes very stylish capes-
With velvet, brocades, moires, beauti-
full laces and deliberately beaded trim
mings in the foreground Of materials 1t
is simple matter to anticipate the ele-
gance of the winter costumes.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16

ance and adapting itself readily N n
trimming Caracule Is now made mp so
light that it is not heavier than ordina-
~ cloth. This fur is fashioned not only
into jackets, but into oapes, coats and
skirts. One Of the newest models In fur
wraps is three-quarter circular cape
with q hood and rundown collar.
Capes and jackets divide popular favor
equally. and there are many quito new
ideas in capes. In one model which
reached we'll below the waist a second
cape started only from the shoulders
and not from the neck, as heretofore It
was too deep to be merely frill and
reached almost to the elbows. A longer
model displayed a cape gathered full
over the shoulders, with rundown col
lar. just "a cloth capes have been worn
during the past three years
Pretty combinations are made with
.sealskin and stone marten- The rounded
yoke in one example was seal, but the
high collar was Of marten and had n
deep frill falling from the shoulders, to
which was attached broad tippet ends Of
the same fur, extending to the feet An
other. u sealskin cape. richly lined with
hrocade. was bordered, collar and all,
with blue fox, and yet another with
sable tail Quite an innovation was
mink cape. the fur starting from the
shoulders and the interstice filled in TO
the throat with ecru colored guipure,
worked all over with gold paillettes,
which made it equally suitable for even
ing ~ for morning wear. This inoon-
&ru0us fdB6uf lace and fur runs through
both dresses and mantles this season.
Long sealskin coats, plain and trim
med, appeal to popular taste. Those in
the form Of driving coats are the height
OF luxury and occasionally display roll
collars Of sable. They are double breast
ed, and the sleeves are large.
Cloth driving coats Of similar shape
start from moderate prices, lined with
fur, the collars mink. The sleeves are
often strapped, and braided Brandon
burgs are introduced down the front.
A whipcord coat was made up after the
same manner, and the large wrap cloaks
enveloping the figure are very tempt
ing. One Of these, in ) fine bright
red cloth, had q full high collar, with
strips Of braid radiating from it TO the
shoulders, where they met a fril of
black Tibet goat There Is so much diff
ference in this fur, but in the present
instance 1t was curly and a beautiful
deep black. Another mantle In dark
blue was trimmed with the same fur.
This seasons sealskin jackets are
three-quarter length full in the skirt,
have large dropping sleeves, high col
lars and are either single or double
breasted The tight fitting sealskin coats
reaching to the ground are singularly
Small sabln boas encircling the neck
are made to faeten with a spring ending
in multiplicity otsta11s. in lieu of the
shlther worn Small capss of
sabla errnfhN, md other furs are made
full % xSdca the tip of the SHOULDER
They hAte high collars, turning down
slightly - the upper edge, and ere sim
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
THIS SEASONS FURS.
SLACK FURS DIVIDE FAVOR WITH
SEAlSKlN,

t.i,,..y Biark I'rrsian lamb l. N''S f"p-
1IAr Long fur Goats A." 4" Demand
,.o~, and Jacket. KauAIly Acceptable.
The New Mum aud HoA~-
There is fancy for black furs this
season; hence PSrsian lamb Is again III
fashion and r. decidedly popular when
made mp in coats of three quarter ionEth.
Despite this fancy for black furS, that
nla time fAvuritr. scalSkin. retains itH
hold. and small wonder. for it IL be-
coming fur and meets tho popular taste
With great variety ~ styles broad
tail. caracule and lofka arr all fashion
mic furA The last Is speoioA OF
,tyairht astrakhan. glossy ia appear
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
Late.t strles In shocs.

Fashion, as it is represented in shoes.
does not change rapidly enough TO re-
csive as much attention as other arti-
Giles Of dress, but the wheel moves, IL it
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16
Something New.

have Just returned fron the Coast
and have opened ~ ccnyaets stock 81
Groceries Everything and anything
from sugar 70 tie sEselcess g f1x1E1es-
Ny Hsotto - 10 SSrs VALUE FOR
VALUE Everything rev and srssA-
Come SaS Ess my pEsces A7t ee ooaR-
WINGED. ,, H. GTy,
CASH tSfS
Hoses anu Union 50 oSg Aen3ss@
Ecses. $SsA-Ssa
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-01-16


gularly warm and comfortable and port
able, so that they can be slipped on and
Of in minute.
Many costumes are made with cloth
and sealskin. Small pieces of the fur,
which are not sufficient to make jack
ct or cape, can be converted into n
close fitting bodice, with sleeves of
cloth. or perhaps into a waistcoat and
deep cuffs or basque. Blended with
deep brown. myrtle or navy cloth the
fnT looks exceedingly well. and tho cos
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

when a feminine buyer does not WISH
/ to expose her frailty, she calls for drops
and gives the shop girl the WINK
Which. being translated, means elIner
aeumof cream or chocolate drop cnars-
ed with brandy. whisky, rum or cuTa-
Goa. The shop girl brings out the Tray
and quickly describes the contents u
each subdivision These drops are
charming stimulants during the SHOP
ming or visiting hours and az maunees.
Moreover. a clever girl. invited 70 DOA
or stall at opera or theatre, can Jahe
some of these drops with her ana 50
Drevnt her escort from the necessity
OF going Out ,een acts "to see d
friend" In O. pound Of such drops are
contained six drinks. according to cluO
combination. Soon members OF the 4UO
will bccOme amenable TO the wee OF
0ver-induleence in stimulants that IS
corfessedlv so common in English nigh
life among women. I am free 10 say
that wink drops are very delicious ana
tempting; and are not beyond the solaco
of the lawyer I'm court, the physician on
his round of calls and the business man
chained TO his desk.
Shall New York City have either or
the Presidential conventions is query
of the hour. lbs sh0p-keepers and no.
tel-keepers are bidding for this. New
York viii not win The Republican con-
venion. because other States repre-
scented on the National Committee, that
selects the place, viii veto New York
because they fear that then Morton
would certainly win, and that his NOM
iraton would come from the gallery.
New York. however. may obtain the
Democratic convention, although the
omen of 1868. when one was held here,
is against the idea. If it is selected, as
sure as he is alive, eX-GOv. Flower viii
be the nominee. He hes prestige.
wealth and the State machine. AEd III
the coming Republican Congress blum
ders. but only in such @ contingency, he
win have q chance of election.
Paderewski and Sir Henry Irving
the one petted of women and the other
of clubs-have distracted so much cash
from amusement seekers that q lull OF
box receipts everywhere has been Oc-
casiOned. The opera even has lost it's
pull; for the new generation know al
most by heart the scores of ancient
.Trovat0re" and modern Faust so
these fail TO draw. But a novelty is i'm
store i'm the Introduction of "Pagiiacci"
"a tragic opera a Ia Norma by
new composer named LeOnc3yalla. who
writes q score fin the melodious and ten
der tones chat We're so frequent with
R0ssini and Douizetti at the time when
Naliban of Pasta charmed our grand
mothers with their rendering Of those
composers demi-semi-QUavers and
mounml miuims. When "Pagliacci'
visits other cities. their music lovers
viii have something very delightful to
hear and talk about.
A. Oakley HALL.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

And so they were married. as the
novel SAYS, "3nd lived happy ever after
ward" as the story book would ada.
But this is taken from no story DOCK
for q happier couple than the New Wo-
man and her husband up TO date has
never been discovered.
The New Woman. rs she is supposed
20 be. as she crops up now and then
with too much frequency, procla-mng
herself q New Woman. is very rarely
happy with her husband. But the real
New Woman Is always SO. IL is a part
of the ncWness that She should adapt
herself TO him in every way, and that
her newness should show in physical
health. in moral obligation and In gen
eral alaptabIty.
The ola Woman contelted herself
with the moral Obligation and the New
Woman. as She really is, had a great
deal more common sense than either
and steps out into directions that make
her husband proud 20 call her his
equal
The Old Woman was always nervous
and hysrCr.c2l Tie s0-caled New
Woman is the latter. without exception.
Bus The really New Woman has left out
nerves in the decomposition for her
nawness. The sc-cGlled New Woman
sc0-ns domes LcaHv and substitutes
brain and l.D for st. but the really New
Woman let's the brain and lip adjust
themselves 10 the bit Of liberation and
good nature. and she takes hold with
both hau5 g Of the domestic reius.
NOT A PLEASANT ONE.
The s0-calI73 New Woman loves %
tramp the streets. I'm the equal OF
sou, she gees about yelling. The really
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

Now Woman realizes that there are
borrs when her fireside is the only place
for her. and she is trying TO feather the
nest comfortably upon which she mus
sit faithfully. .,.,. =.
The Old Woman says: My health S
as aood as a mans. o..
The New Woman says: i know II
isn't and the least l say about II the
The go-called New Woman spends
half her life in retreat for nerve
c,-beue+ion. Count the new retreats
that have sprung up for them! EVERY
nomnblet at the door advert-ses one.
RTf +ha rally New Woman has no use
for +6em. Her retreat is to her own
comfortable boudO.r and ner nerve eA-
baustlon finds its cure n a Midday nap
and a turn at the foils with her nus
band. .,.. NJ.
Woman stands out IN such prominence
AGAINST other New Woman. It's De-
csuse she is the real thing. They are
shams descended from historical ances-
try and perpetuating hyster-a INTO re-
lucta1t generations. =.
Ava W. Aston is a New Woman III
mentality. She is extremely literary g
IF bv that you mean reading the news
Dapers. knowing what IS in the maya
zines and keeping posted On the ne"
hooks and new plays. She can cna-
about any Of them.
When her husband is preparing his
booI,s-those scientific works that are
berinning to make his name men
ttcnedw,th respect by men OF scientific
exDer.ence-he asks her countless Ques-
tons. Her plan Of the layout OF the
hook is the final one OF him. Her APP
Drec,2.ion Of q sentence dispCses Of it n
the work, her adverse criticism kills IL,
even with her protest against such arDi-
trary following oil her words. she is the
motive power to all the great things her
husband has done and IS the incentive
10 new ones.
The New Woman, as she really is,
dresses well. She does not forget that
her best weapon is good looks, and when
she doffs her street dress for a dinner
gown, or opera robe, and allows her
diamonds to be fastened in her hair,
she realizes that she is still fulfilling
her proper mission and has reached the
stage known as enjoying herself
1t is a singular thing about the New
Woman, as she really IS, that she does
nc. know she IS q New Woman. The
bogus article always bears the largest
stamp. The real often comes unan-
nounced. The really New Woman IS
not blazed ahead with trumpets; she
never sounds her own note But She
lives as a very marked figure in the
| lives Of those who know her, and in that
sense she is entitled to the name OF
The New Woman, as She Really Is"
AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

friends to n private shooting gallery
and showed them how she could nfe
pistol. When she had shO, OIL as many
she's rs they and the score bad been
counted. It was found that the tall slip
az q blackwell girl had rgi tered
highcr than any one else. Nlefe o-o
Won learn 10 sh9ot2" they an cried
You showed me how once 80 the
orchard q year ago she said, turning
TO her brother. "aud since tlen / have
pracused whenever I could get hold OF
your gun
"Why. that is tle way we learned
exclaimed the lads And from that time
forth there was new kind OF g.rl
I'm the world for them. She could Shoot
she could tramp. she liked % Kill birds.
she enjoyed hunting eggs and trapping
squirrels. She was able CD slo2- over the
dying ag0u,es OF q pigeon brought down
by o lucky shot, and she understood
from beginning to end che game laws
and their why's and wheref0res. IL YVES
not harder than mastering q scale upon
The piano. and & was vastly more In
vigora-ing. specially when there were
plenty Of rainy days for learning the
scales.
From that time ur-l now Ava viii
ms Aa0r has been New Woman.
a year ago when there was q hul2b2-
loo about woman suffrage. every eGor.
was expended 90 get her To- throw her
social influence in the scale OF woman
voters. "Bu- I don't want 90 vote, She
said. over and over again. 70 those Who
urged ier.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01
As SIZE REILLY Is
Mrs. John Jacob Aston the Type and
Leader Of the New Woman,
Augusta PrescOtt's Critique - So
Called New Woman as Old as
Joan Of Arc, but There Are Really
New Ones-Wealth Makes This
One Conspicuous.


Copyright, 1895, by Ryan Interview
SyndicateJ
When Edward Kelly and Mrs. Bloom
field Moore were negotiating with John
Jacob Aston for the disposition Of the
Kelly motor. q line in a letter from
the inventor of the capitalist urged on
amiable arbitration, and suggested
quietly and delicately that the mactar
be laid before Mrs. Aston, that it might
receive her judgment
This gives the echo OF the keynote
to the character of the new woman as
now found. It beg.ns TO sound the
tumphet Of the New Woman, not as
she really is. not as she Is pictured,
not as she Is fancied but as she really
and actually exists.
A century ago there was no woman
Of this kind. The Weai-aiest m3uon
kept herself the most exclusively uom
affairs of the world. most entirely from
all matters that were outside society
and household. But the wealthy woman
of to-day uses her wealth as q stepping
stone 10 all things, and with it She be-
comes the New Woman rs she really is.
MRS. ASTOR'S TRAINING.
There are several Of these new women
in full exercise of their rights and pow
ers. but one does not hear oil them,
and does not recognize them in the
marons that pass before their eyes;
and in pointing out this Ne" Woman
so she viii be visible it is bes, TO take
the one that Is the most conspicuous OF
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

tNa---Ii- ~ -
ROCKS - WH1 -I ID ~ -'-A
----- ny N-rv- yORk-ENOLJ-
nuns N0vEr-lIISS
----, 7-rrr Or
D~-ie - ..-----
SEASON -- ,.--.A-> - "a
OPERA. lND LiE N-N ONE ol
-- -----r-r9 IEONCAVAL-
ll
- 0rr Special CCrr72 ll-u-
,-. Van. November 25.-New York
.- r-- f-- rrr.. E-rary season,
a .---.-r..rz on tle eve OF
.-..-..,..-- r ts dying 5m-
(.. v.-~. It 1rms the season
-.e- .-...- ara hunted after. and
.-- .-. -.a-lauled for re-
,s..-....-- columns then
.--+-.- ...., 20. rivalry Of am
--.r. hers. and when
..- ..--.,.- dinners and pink teas
---. as -onlls beside those
..-. -sr hooks
-..--,- literary exchange 40 Up
..,, .--rr. is rs notable r7ndez-
...-- f.. have found no
...-.-. .-...r.- fn London or
.... ..er.c3u city. There
-.....-.. classic orr volume or
.rar- rhetoric that o.
fal Oh its shelves
r- Gibbons decline and
u Empire through all
from B0swelis re-
Johnson t0 those or
sherman. whose vol
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-12-01

and good temper are the best beauti-
fiers. and those who cultivate these Wall
ward OF ugly wrinkles all their HEeS.