The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-08-18
WHEN AUTUMN COMES.
New York Designers at Ncrsailies-Natty
Gowns aud Hats-Short Sapes TO
Ee the Correct Thing.

NEW YORK. Aug. lit IS almost
autumn and we ask. even If we set no
answer. what are we going 10 wear? III
Is simple guess work as yet in spite OF dis
tertations from people gifted in the art
OF setting forth the unknOwahle. And
vet s-sessWC rk Is not to be despisod al
together. Fashion works along certain
lines and one has only 10 follow the
trend OF her tendencies 10 get-soincWnele
Hltther she may or may not follow.
Bearing in mind this principle, 1t Is
reasonably safe To get interested in LOUIS
XVI All the New York designers VINO
are going 10 Paris TO study and 10 evolve
models are being sent TO Nersailes 10
Ait down before the old pictures OF the
tcuffaut skirts, the pointed waists. the
sashes and the fchus worn by the Oh-
happy queen and her ladies'. when they
ehut so Intellectually the gates OF Tria-
non on the sound of the approaching
revolution. Without waiting for the YER
dict Of the designers the sashes ana
fchus have been accepted, ana some
of the trOusseaus already in preparation
for early autumn marriages snow very
considerable faith in the coming empire
Of smaller sleeves basque effects and
skirts that are full over the hips.
The dress for instance, in which MISS
Edith Mnturn Will travel across the
continent after her wedding with Mr..
aac Newton Phelps Stokes is Of dull
green wool heckcd with warm RED
nero ana tttlt. II Is. furthermore a
very inter esting example Of the hesitancy
between the reigning styles and the
styles that are expected 10 reign; Ter
the skirt is slightly frllled over the hips
and yet, Ike the spring skirt ana the
summer skirt. il flares toward the hem.
it is a fitted basque with point IN
front and one behind. Instead or the
soft surplice corsage without which
dressmaker hardly knows how TO dress
make, IT has an elaborate braided yoke
in red and green. There are rather small
Cigot sleeves, but the real novelty of the
outfit ia the Jacket. which Is very snort.
close-ftting in the back. but loose ana
double-breasted I'm front. with narrow
revers and several rows Of smoky pearl
buttons set with gold rims.
Another "g0ing away dress this time
for a very youthful blonde whose mar
rage will be one of Newports sensa-
tiOns I'm September is of shot green ana
blue cloth with a skirt that takes less
cloth than the mOdistes have been using
though 81 is so fun over the hips that TO
get the result aimed at. godet hip panels
have been set in. These panels are iast-
encd down with pearl buttons. other-
wise the skirt is untrlmmed. Inc waist
Is a tiny pointed bodice, with a loose
front Of silk shot with green and blue.
The chOker is a straight silk band, and
the sleeves are just moderately iull. with
lace ruffies falling over the lower arm.
It usually happens that one knows
about hats before one knows about
gowns. Some OF the leading mil
liners have a few early models from
Paris and to tell about them sounds as
81 one were taking the description from
the costumes Of the Queens Necklace,
where the tOilcttes were those worn by
Marie Antonette in her gayest, most
care-f-ce DAYS.
A hat ordered by Mrs. George Gould for
The coming fan is Of fine yellowish straw
bent down over the face. turned M sharp
~ In the back and with piquant folds ana
couvolutions on the sides The crown
a. rather low and alAouf if iS Mating
OF black lace and white velvet, standing
Np like coronet, tied with crimson
ribbon. figured Dresden fashion, In white
and black and knOtted behind In big
bow. Fine crimson flowers are fastened
under the prim and droOp like blOOd-red
tassels. over the hair.
Another model FOR later wear. when
the leaves have dropped and the air gets
fits autumnal chill is OF black velvet
with one side close against the face ana
the other carclessly crumpled TO suit the
bright. irregular features OF a typical
American beauty who almost always has
a slightly tip tilted nose and saucy
chin. Small pink chrysanthemums are
pinned inside against the front hair, ana
"A cOronal OF black ostrich feathers Is
tied about the filling crown with huge
bow OF chry santhemum pink r'bbCn.
But what IS called the Marie AniOinette
shape and promises TO be the leading
yoke OF fine straw with a short back and
"a high, steep crown. An uncOuntable
number OF little bows OF black ribbon ar
ranged I'm rows Is the trimming for one
OF tho newest of these experiments. TO-
gether with a lot OF nodding black
piImes. A hat like this looks a century
Oh. but IL is very, very FIN de steele.
Levi i. Mortons eldest daughter has
Marie Antoinette hat rather more sum-
incry In effect and meant for wear In |
late August. IL IS a quaint affair Of white
BRAIDED straw trimmed with white satin
lihnpn bows and black ostrich tips fast
NaHHf u Ill.
,s dress of white yelling with large
p.a-k chenille spots wide collar and wide
fSSoon sash with large square bows.
90 90 lar as one can now see the fan
Colols VIII be golden brown. French blue,
Tan black and white with an occasional
Knot OF yellow and green SILK bouses
: cannot 20 out Al once, there are always
wonleh VINO VIII have them. The newest
nave felt already the ground-swell OF |
lashlon and are made with Louis XVI. |
PoMs A very pretty one is OF chameleon |
ESne,a showing blue. red or brown as
ithe light happens to shine II has a |
lproad red ribbon starting from under |
each arm and tied across the bosom in |
p large square Louis XVI bow. The belt |
iof a similar ribbon has just such an
tther bow behind Rhinestone buckles |
fasten both, and the round neck Is finish /
'Td with SILK irili IN knife piaits drawn /
Through a buckle under the chin
! Velvet blOuscs are being made with fur /
land jet trimmings. but these are hideons |
Except for very slender women There |
Ere even Marie Antoinette blouses |
which are less FUN than others. but are |
(ynade with collar and belt OF the silk ana |
Elg plated fichu.
but II is ina evening dress that last |
century modes Will tell to the best ad-
kantage. Large figured satin brocades |
lire on the market and the dresses into
(which they viii be cut are 10 have full [
fircuiar skirts for the proper giorinca- /
Zion OF the design. Such skirt calls
for fitted satin bodice cut low, pointed
IA the waist and yelled across the shout
ners with "A costly lace fichu
Tailor dresses for autumn wear will |
be much buttoned. The latest are OF dun |
bess. Fiat steel buttons rival them in |
popularity. and are set on In rows, 10
Kim the bodice or skirt or both and the
d,sit too.
{sAutumn capes are rather short, as thus
= displayed. and arc made OF plush