The National tribune., 1895-01-24

The accompanying sketch will show how
the work Is done. Blooming plants might
| be placed in them Nasturtiums and morn
ing gi0rles IN a very sunny window would
give delightful results. Small logs set on
end might he used in the same way. and
would be infinitely prettier than the ordi-
nary hower-pot
In Summer this idea might be carried out
IN variety Of ways gnarled old stump
could have bits followed out here and there
just large enough to hold a single nastur-
tium seed, or clump of ferns according to
whether it is to be placed in the sun or
shade. Small, upright, NOISY logs, filed
| with flowers, and placed on the gate-posts or
on the piazzl railing would add to the
| beauty of any country house.
Chrysanthemums for Next Season
Directly the last blooms are cut from tina
| plants, no matter for what purpose thew
| have been grown, the time has arrived for
preparing for next seasons display. stock
| or suitable cuttings Is the first consideration
/ the cultivator should have in view. So
much depends upon the kind of cuttings
obtained for the ultimate display, that some
| little pains IS taken in obtaining the best
results. Directly the blooms have faded or
within few inches of the soil # there is an
abundant supply Of sucker-ike growths
sprnging from the base. II the variety be
new or scarce, and shy in throwing up cut
tings, do not cut lower than within one foot
from the base. as grOwths may push from
the stem. The latter are moi so good for
cuttings as those growing few inches away
from the stem, on account OF their inclina-
ton to show premature fiower-buds instead
OF making free growth; but as any kind of
cuttings has TO be borne with at times it is
well to endeayor TO obtain as many as posi-
bic. The Old stools as they are of en- called,
should be placed in a light AMI airy place
A cold frame efficiently protected from the
frost answers Very well, and so do a cool
greenhouse, winery, or peaelI-hOuse at rest.
If there are more cuttings grow ing from the
base than are required, and these are likely
to be drawn mp weakly and spoiIt the most
slender and less likely to make good plants
should be taken out, to give additional space
to those remaining. Any signs Of mildew,
green or black lily. should be at once checked
III It's progress. Flowers of sulphur for the
former and tobacco-powder for the aphides
are the most effective rerIedi-s. In the
meanwhile preparation should be begun for
putting in the cuttings, as a long season of
growth is desirable to give the best results
The soil should be got in readiness and dried
gradually. Loan, lef-moud, and sharp
silver sand, in equal parts are a suitable
compost. Clean pots, tw0-and-a-balf inches
in diameter, are the most suitable, putting
one cutting into each. From these the
plants are easily shifted to larger when well
rooted, without giving them a check.-The
Garden, London.
Pruning of FIOwering shrubs.
1t is at this season that much of the prun-
ing of Towering shrubs Is performed, and
usually the operation takes with it all the
flower buds that should clOthe the plant
with a mass of bloom during the Spring and
early Summer. This is because gardeners
do not consider the Towering habits of the
various shrubs with which they have to
deal. To prane away, in Winter, the young
wood from weigela, deutzia, meek orange,
lilac or bush hOneysuckle takes with it
all the bloom for the following Spring.
This is usually the case, however, when in
discriminate pruning is practieed. There
are very few shrubs that NAV be severely
cut in Winter The hardy hydrangea,
sIth9a and some smaller shrubs like the
hypericum, form their flower buds on the
young growth made in the Summer of the
same year they bloom, but nearly all other
shrubs make their flower buds on the young
growth made the season previous to their
expanding.
The proper system of pruning is one that
will induce an abundance of young wood,
and this can only be accomplished by the
trimming out of all twO-year-old growth
that which has already fowered-cutting
out the old shoots close 10 the ground, so
that the new growth will push out from the
root of the plant. If the bush makes too
strong and rank a growth, a moderate
amount of pruning in Winter will not lessen
the bloom to any extent, especially as the
extreme ends of the young wood do not
flower.
Summer pruning of Towering shrubs is
practiced by some gardeners with success
after the plants have done blooming-but in
this case it must be done with great care, as
the cutting away of wood when in full leaf
tends to weaken the plant, while the Objeet
to be gained is to foster strong and VigoE-
Gus grow th.-AeeAazs's MosthIy.
Our Peach Orchard.
Use trees only one year from the bud
and don't buy them from a tree agent, bui
get them from nurseryman who will nGb
cheat you. In planting, don't set them any
deeper than they grew in the nursery. Trim
the bruised ends of broken roots smooth
with a sharp knife. Then trim off clean all
the branches made in the nursery, and cut
the stem square off at the hight'you want
to form the head, leaving the tree about the
size of an ordinary walking-stick. When
growth begins in Spring the buds will start
all along this stem. Rub off ali except
three or four at the top, which will make
the future head. The next Winter these
shoots should be shortened one-half, and the
same practice followed annually. Plant
l6X16 feet and cultivate in hoed crop.
In Fall sow crimson clover, and pillow it
under in Spring for manure.-W. T. Mas