The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-02
ACROSS THE GLACIERS AND BENEATH THE PALMS
OF
The Natives of the Fiji Islands as Seen by a
Chicagoan

treating white people as necessary nui
sance.
The selection of Suva as the site for the
capital was bad. Much of the land is new
made, necessitating the erection of sea
wall as protection against the tides. The
western expanse prevents the benefit of the
trade winds being felt, and the humid at
mosphere makes the heat at times almost
unDearable. During the wet season the
rainfall is incessant and heavy, and as the
soil does not Immediately absorb moisture
ike In Honolulu, dampness much of the
year is prevalent.
;. The majority of the commercial houses
line one side of Victoria promenade, which
races the sea and is the principal thorough
fare. The town covers quite an extensive
area, dwellings being scattered about in all
directions upon the slight elevations in the
rear and along the water front. Public, busi-
ness and private edifices and buildings are
OF frame construction, with roofs occasion
allV OF shlngle, but in most instances of
corrugated iron. The water supply, brought
from long distance at much expense, is
excellent, but beyond this luxuries cease.
In addition to three or four steamship
agencies, half dozen firms of commission
dealers, and scarcely score OF general or
special mercantile establishments, the me-
tropolis of FIJI boasts of three hotels. a
Custom-house, postoffice, Government
building, library and one semi-weekly
publication, the Times. Seven steamers
call regularly at the port each month
bound on cruises between the various col
onles. Other steamers occasionally, and
trading schooners at frequent intervals,
also make short trips.
Levuka, which until fourteen years ago
was the capital and most important town,
is In every way preferable to its modern
rival. The natural surroundings are very
n inn l.,1o H. r.,,x,
almost directly from the seashore, covered
with mass of tropical verdure. Delight
fu! breezes are always blowing, the climate
being dry and salubrious. The Island of
Ovalan is small and offers several very
pretty excursions. Although the oldest
OF all European settlements, the same lack
of roads found everywhere exists here.
The whole population of Levuka is largely
made up of Germans, who carry on a
modest but thriving trade with other Paci-
fic islands
The hurricane of January was felt to q
greater extent here than elsewhere. Album
dant traces of the ferocity of the gale have
been left behind. Dismasted ships, run
high and dry upon the reef, withered
cocoanut palms, ruined piers and frame
structures nearly collapsed tell the tale.
The ocean waves, driven to a frenzy
OF rage, swept over the shore lines,
washing away much of the road, sew
eral buildings and part OF the docks.
A dozen little cutters anchored within the
reef were blown far out to sea or sunk.
Houses rocked like cradles, their inmates
expecting with every minute to find the
entire edifice sent flying through the air.
For hours the storm ragged with unmiti-
gated fury, the winds and the noun
tains vying with each other in the creation
OF deafening notes.-the rain continuing to
fall In perfect torrents throughout.
These annual hurricanes will prove the
greatest drawback to Fits success. The
elements form an insuperable obstacle that
the hand of man can never overcome.
The society OF Levuka is much more Sc
lect and exclusive than in Suva, notwith-
standing that the gubernatorial mansion
and all the red tape necessarily there con-
tanned is now located in the latter place.
A vast amount OF jealousy between the
two settlements exists, extending from
commercial to social life.
The limited improvement in contempla-
ton by the Government is all being CEN
tered in the present capital, and nothing
former reputation keeps Levuka from fall
ing into ''innocuous desuetude."
One day l met Ratu Epeli, son of
Cokaban (Thokombau) King of Fiji, who
had to come to Suva either for pleasure
and recreation or to draw his pension. He
Is nne-look1ng, able chap, very large and
heavy and quite dark. Ais hair, instead
OF being worn, as is the custom with the
in an immense mop and dyed
with brilliant yellow, was cut quite short,
and left in its natural black state. A queer
looking King he appeared when promenad-
ing, through the streets, without hat and
with his short ''sulu" extending only to
his knees, loose-ftting calico jacket, and
bare legs. Several court retainers and les
ser chiefs accompanied him, following be-
hind at respectful distance. His home is
in the original native capital of Bau,
where he cordially invited me to visit as
his guest. Our conversation was carried
on through an interpreter. as he
cannot speak word of English
These ratus, or chiefs, are powers
in the land, and it is through them that
the British Government now rules the
group. Once every year the rokos, or lieu
meet in convention with
the leading English officials, and then the
policy referring to native affairs is dis
cussed and final decisions are made.
WILLIAM PRESTON HARRISON.