Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1895-05-14
THE GEM OF ATHENS.
StrdIllDS on the Classic CrCuld Of
the AcropOlls,
ANCIENT RUNS IN A MODERN CITY.
=. the sent OF Htsh Priest In the
Theatre ~ Bacehas-Thc Place
where ~. Pan, stood aud Talked
10 the Men.
10 che Wen

WILING 70 admi, that he was disappointed
g. his FIRST sight Of Athens. But IL rs
to.cfahly certain that the aridity OF the
landscape and the bigness Of the modern
MY 81 Ahcns-as compared with the
,ld-servo to confound the traveller who
las ea.ncd his impressions Of the CITY OF
.he Niolc, Crown from photographs and
ne descriptions 81 tourists But nearer
view Of Athens. revealing as Il does. the
ZEN Of its orown-the Acropolis--sets
acht all misconceptions When ones
rsze rests upon that glorious cminence
pre- forgcts the wide. smart. modern
tty that IS spread out below There Is
De sem that he has come 50 far to see;
here cluster the memories Of his boyish
s'u1ies Of thc classics, and there is the
elimination II centuries OF art, poetry.
3nd song. In moment as Il wore me
?arren landscape. the newncss and crude
tess OF the new capital and the lack or
relation OF the Acfopolis 20 Oh else beside
4 meits away. and oae realizes that he
rs about 10 enter the sacred precincts OF
>he noblest architectural monument that
!he world carries on IT'S bosom. The
sarthenon dominates the panorama OF The
Attic coast as one approaches Athens
from the piraeus Blu, as one enters the
}arbor Of Plraeus he Is overwhelmed by
che memories Of Saiamis. Phaleron. Aegi-
a.. and EleusiS on the left. or 20 the
westward. is the bay Of Salamis. with its
numerous fluctuations. and we open the
strait through which the Greeks. under
Themlsiocles. drove "a" Persian feet,
while the land forces. led by Aristides.
routed The legion along the shore. Up
there on the rocky height above
" can imagine that We see the sight Of
~ golden chair In which \erxes sat and
cav the defeat OF his invading army.
leaving these to the left as we bear away
y the eastward, the rounded hill. which
we could not In America call "a mountain.
that challenges the eye. Is Ilymettos.
aui when We get 10 Athens we shall be
trtrcated 20 buy cans and jars OF honey.
warranted genuine honey OF Hymettos.'
directly In front Of rs. as we make for
iAe entrance 10 the haTbor OF Piraeus. is
paues. the northern boundary OF the
Pain - Atiica: and. as we advance. still
bearing eastward In our course. we open
O. biuny. rounded prom0ntory extending
:1i0 the sea from our right, beyond II a
forest OF masts and spars. This is the
pralus. the seaport OF Athens. and
Presently a vista opens between Hymet-
o. and Parnes, brown and purple In the
f.gaace. and we see the gable-shnped
IeIment OF the Parthenon. The vista
troadens and In the centre OF the dis
ilrt picture we behold the outline OF the
acroYolis Drowned with the temple Of the
parihenou: to the right is the monument
q phioppapos. a truncatcd cube. and 20
80 left the modern observatory OF
Athens. and rising granGly behind the
white barrack Of the royal palace is
Mount Lycabettus. purple in the distance.
SCI deceptive by its apparent remoteness;
;5r We are just now In the harbor of
yraeus. the modern town that lies under
or lee. protected by breakwaters. and
Ir0sperous-looking with Its growing com
ntrce. Athens 10 yet five miles inland
g. a direct line.
4 MODERN RAILWAY.
A very modern railway, which takes the
general direction OF the Long Wall, CON
rects Piraeus with Athens. but a far
p1asanter route in fine weather Is by
me carriage-road part OF which is built
90 the foundation Of that wall. whose
vast construction was the impregnable
and secure means Of communication be-
tween the capital and It's seaport in the
lalmy days Of Greece. In summer the
issfage Of the trees that line this highway
affords n grateful shade. on each side
ere cultivated fields and vineyards, and
hear Pirseus we pass numerous factories
tnd mills. whose tall chimneys and taller
columns OF smoke give evidence OF COM
,lercsl activity But all thoughts are
tlrned toward Athens, and when. after u
gradual ascent. we pass number or
GIVE plantations, we cross the dry bed
a. the Cephisos. we catch nearer glimpse
L. the Parthenon. with the Temple of
ffn.aat4c Fa frFcPrpfInn begin 10
;etl that We are al least on classic
ground We who have read the story of
ga Athens are hardly prepared for the
neanness Of the famous streams. cephisos
ana lNgsOg. that bound the ancient city.
There Is not a drop Of water in the bed
~ either one OF these So-calle1 rivers
md they are the receptacles of rubbish
md loose stone. our road leads past the
railway station. AMI Just beyond. looming
Iyer the roof % the railway buildings, We
are surprised by "a rear view OF The Tenn
lie Of Iheseus. looking strangely out OF
Place. almost fororn. In its isolation in the
midst 81 the commonplace and unroman-
&c structures OF these modern days. y
'ew turns IN the narrow streets Of the
city. q few dashes across the wide
swept spaces OF the Place de Ia cOnsti-
fulton and we are set down before the
Hotel 90 Ia Granae Bretagne. the best
appointed and most comfortable hosiery
IN the Levant. The streets are wide and
clean lr this part OF the city; in front
q The hotel Is a handsome public gar
den And above this. at the top OF the
gently downward-sloping square. IS the
palace q King George. of Greece. 1t IS
ua excessively plain building. OF light
oo.orei limestone. and the plaza In front
O. 10 is az dry and sandy as the desert
- sahara The King lives very simply,
tfl The inside OF his palace IS as I'M
lfe',rtioUs as It's exterior. He and his
t.1s't son. accompanied by two ladies OF
M household ana a modest retinue.
we've on board our ship. the Furst Bis
l--'ck. today on a visit Of inspection.
iie King wore a seedy-looking suit OF
tack with few regal trappings. the spe-
C.. badge Of his rank being a standing
.i-lollar OF royal blae embroidered
WILD fpid lie Is youthful sovereign in
appearance, although he is 81 years old.
ana IS TIE grandfather Of several chill
oirH His hair and complexion are
taal!. and hespeak his Danish birth.
- DIE aquilne features and reddish
i'l.itcne reminded me OF the senior
M'inirf " the head OF one Of the great
l1oH't.Hs houses Of New York. King
~ 'ise is well liked by the Athenians,
.il ht word is about all there is left
'' honorable IN the present admin
.''tipn 81 The GTeek Government. IL
URGED that much money must be laid
w ".ft 20 prevent the final collapse OF
.' i-ih az the Parthenon and other
'''.7 monuments OF Greek art. and
',l''-h nations are 10 be appealed 10 TO
N ihe work Of preservation. But
hiHg George gives his assurance
'.t- iit money shall be wisely spent
80 honestly administered people viii
,.hiy about subscribing even To this
worthy object.
TIE ACROPOLlS FIRST.
Naturally one usually goes to the Aero
Ai.l when sightseeing begins In
.'tI'hs. But We dallied along with other
'-'Ns- iooAng around. and cheating our
s1lteiailon with less thrilling spectacies
.it' the Theatre Of Bacchus. or DiOnysos.
"NyA lies at the base Of the Acropolis
go near IT'S southeast corner, ~ SUM-
N''ii} pregnant with human interest,
wen pa us antique decay. TO thrill the
indifferent Of observers. Imagine a
.e'ie whose top was open 10 the sky.
~ around a semicircular stage whose
-4i1s was 80 feet. with seats rising
- ''ncentfic semiCircles. tier above tier,
80 whole cut out OF the solid rock that
iha the ridge on which the Acropolis
u.Nt. and the auditorium accommo-
.Nhs 300 persons. This was the Theatre
. bacchus To-day We see the space In
-vh' u the stage Enclosed with a marble
,.'iapet aud paved with beautifuly-ar-