Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1895-03-07
NEW YORK FASHIONS.


Modes OF Gnrniture-M aterials-styles
in Making--silks-I.ateS Fashion Notes.
Special Corresponds nee OF Gazette and Journal
Nrw YoRK, Feb. 2s.-In new millinery,
toques and turbans have an important
position, because adapted to persons who
do not wish too pronounced styles and also
becaiiGe suited To different ages. pair of
narrow velvet strings. transforming either
from hat 10 a bonnet aud as the latter,
desirable for the elderly, since the elderly
alone new wear strings. Rough or open
work straws. chiefly the former prevail
and the trimming is piled upon them,
flowers on the low living order being most
used, while height is given by quilted lace
or wired ribbon loops, though now and
then. long stemmed flower or narrow
bouquet does duty. In
RIBBONS,
there Is great choice. since an unusual
variety is on the market. Taffeta, gros
grain or satin. the last often double faced,
are shown in plain colors, but chenc taffetas
are much used, because harInonizing with
new silks and the assortments of striped
ribbons are large, novelty here being given
by plisse ribbons that as the name would
indicate, are set in folds, a contrasting
color or a lighter shake of the same hue,
showing from beneath. Gauze ribbons
are also a feature, either plain or in fancy
weave and crepon ribbons showing alter
nate stripes of satin and crinkled weave,
are in keeping with crepOn dress materials.
Velvet on the bias is freely employed and
there are piece fabrics in crepon weave.
either solid colored or displaying small
sprays.
vtoLErs
are still extremely popular, because lend
ing themselves so readily to the present
fancy for low lying flowers and single
roses again fulfil a similar purpose, both
being used likewise To give breadth. Wide
| brimmed hats are very fanciful in outline
and iavishly adorned and in both them
and the smaller toqueS or turbans, mix
lures of color are often extreme. Bright
| pink is still prominent and green as well,
the bluet shades rc-appearing, though with
| some diminution of former distinction.
| Spangled wings are often relied upon to
| produce broad effects and bonnets not I'M
frequently have horned appearance, by
| reason OF these stiff projections OH either
side. Wide loops are used in u similar
| manner. Loosely woven straws in nil
llnery, harmonlzG with a
LOOSELY WOVEN WOODS
that are reckoned very stylish among ma
| tcrials, the interstices being sometimes 81
| large as to allow finger to be thrust
through. Such examples of course, are
extreme, and will require light weight
silk lining. Mixed woods, however, us
.
| vogue than black materials that will be
| made into skirts to he worn with fancy
waists and the set OF skirts, therefore is
more important than ever. The general
contour docs not differ much from last
season, since for the most part, they are
close in front and Oh the sides. with full
ness LAID in plaiis or gathers at the back.
Especial attention is paid TO the
FINISH AT THE FooT,
| sinr1 skirts arn ritutupd mud in aTuuor
TO inquiry, it may be added that the s. IL.
| and NJ. skirt bindings being on true bias,
are easy to put on the first step being to
baste smoothly, with the right side of the
binding to the right side Of the skirt A
quarter inch seam should then be taken,
after which, the binding should lie turned
over on the wrong side, until both edges
are exactly even. The binding must then
be basted again and lastly hemmed down
on the npper edge. Finally press the
binding with warm iron protecting it by
a bit of crinoline and when the hastings
are taken out the binding will extend
very slightly below the edge of the skirt,
thus a;fording complete protection and
giving an elegant finish.
SUITS
of two pieces, skirt and coat or three pieces,
jacket, skirt and waistcoat, are again in
favor and much effective contrast is again
obtained by the last named in silk showing
Paisley or Oriental mixtures, though black
more or brocaded satin vests, have posi-
ton. Extreme contrasts are sometimes
seen, as where a green Goth suit, has a
red vest and deep yellow is also used
effectively in contrast. Cut away coats to
show the vest, are of course obligatory
and arc fastened by one or three buttons.
} But where the waistcoat is dispensed with.
. the coat is single or double breasted and
affords only glimpse of the uhemisetle. In
SILKS,
: narrow stripes lead and where floral de.
l signs are seen, they are by far most fire.
T guently on the Chene order in taifcra silk
) and set between narrow stripes. This is
: because such textures and patterns are bes
| suited to independent waists and India
silk therefore, is at a discount. Elegant
5 varieties in black silk are introduced, be-
I cause of the demand for black skirts and
$ the richest are i'll brocade of enormously
large patterns OH satin or grus Erair
$ ground works. RosALIND MAY.