The morning times., 1895-09-29


now on the shady avenues. They are
skirted with a Scotch material, that
mixture Of colors which tDfallbly pro-
claims change of season. Many Of
them ha We appa rently chosen skirts
off the one pattern. 1t is q tan with
colored dots in it.
A variegated effect is produced like
a mackrel sky against the sunset
Green, yellow, red, black and white are
the dots. They are close together, and
a thread from them runs through the
goods. 1t is q heavy goods, and is
sa we'd from burdening the limbs only
by the silk lining, which is often white
with only deep hem or fold Of green,
brown or even red, near the feet.
DRESSING FOR THE DUKE.
With these walking skirts go fancy
waists. Black satin is enjoying a re-
turn to favor. A shiny black satin waist,
made in the latest mode, well-fitting,
lustrous, heavy and not stiff, is certainly
a thing of much beauty wherever seen.
The hats worn by the ladies of the
Duke of Marlborough's train-the matrons
and young women who are showing New
York 70 him-are all small. They turn
back with a coquettish roll, and are
surmouDted by tiny trimmings. They are
rather French in effect, and becoming
A large parasol, with much trimming upon
the inside, is carried with such a hat.
Shade hats for the city are not great y liked,
unless one is driving or enjoying a spectacle
like a yacht race, or posing upon n balcony
for a procession. Then they are becoming
and effective, but for walking and carrying
a parasol they are in the way.
A lady's renolongerh herown. When,
where and how she .'she boxes her Trilbys''
is of interest to her friends and the public.
She chooses her shoes to please, just as
she has always chosen her hats.
The autumn shoe, as worn by Mrs. c.
Oliver Iseljn, who is a very great per-
sonage now, is cork sole. She is always
prepared for showers. The cork is not
thick, ana the leather that lies below it
is almost paper-weight, SO that the shoes
are not clumsy. They have a very natty
look and are trim, as all street belongings
should be. The tops are patent leather
Dealers do not carry them in stock, and the
wearer must resort to the old-fashioned
and, in these days of ''perfect-fitting
ready-mades,' to the almost obsolete fashion
of getting shoes made to order.
Mrs Hermann oelrichs, who is begin
ming TO be quietly dubbed 1.-The richest
woman in the world" since her fathers
death. walks considerably, and always
attended by her young sister. Both dress
in the Scotch suiting, which is made in
checks OF black and white plaid for them.
Their waists are velvet, silk and very
lustrous cloth. Little trimming is seen
upon them. The fancy for plain fall street
suits is in full sway for the present a
fancy of this kind holds its own for about
a month, or until the plain silk bodice has
cut at the elbows and worn GREASY at
the sides, then it is time for 4 new waist
and new style.
ON MRS. CLEVELAND.
Mrs. Cleveland has resumed her walking
habits, though not in New York. She takes
strolls each day with her old friend, Miss
Benedict. The wife OF the President is
very skillfui dresser, and has way Of look
ing slender, though she is now very stout
woman, and her clothes always look new,
though she has ordered little this autumn.
One of her walking dresses is a bright blue
serge, the faded shade of army cloth, with
white enough in the mixture TO brighten
il. The bodice has a very low pointed belt of
black silk This points front and back and
the waist is full to the belt.
A long French waist effect is thus pro-
duced upon a woman who has by no means
a French waist. As country fashions are
a little more fussy than the town, a fan
of butter-cOlored lace is draped to a point
across the bust and is repeated upon the
epaulets, making apparently a small lace
cape, pretty and becoming.
Mrs. Cleveland's clothes are now tele-
graphed all over the country; for somehow
since the advent of Maid Marion the wife of
the President has taken a Jump back into
popularity. Her unselfish devotion to three
babies is something that appeals to every wo-
man with a heart. Few young, beautiful
and wealthy women. with Mrs. Cleveland's
social advantages at the present
time, would see their line of duty falling in
this domestic path, particularly when the
horoscope points to so short shine of brill
liant d.iy for enjoyment.
A favorite length for an afternoon walk
for the reduction of "too solid flesh" and
for enjoyment combined, is three miles.
This may always be measuredb by city blocks.
The walk is the circuit of the average golf
course and is Just right for health. A
dress worn for this walk should not touch
the ground more than lightly, in the undu-
lations OF the walk, nor should it be draggy
at the back, The little springs that set
1t out are well for walking use.