The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-11-28
AN OLD DOr1INION THANKSGIVING
DINNER
(R. LaWrence)

n
A blaze OF sacrificial yellows and crlm-
sons had fallen on the oaks, elms,
beeohes, hickories. naples. chinas, catal.
pas and willows of the park that stretched
from the great pillared gate on the road
to the wide verandas and mullioned win
dows of the Jli Chichester place in Fair
fax county, Virginia. Deer stalked through
the scar leaves and nibbled the scanty
grass. Near the house the rose beds had
turned into a naked, briery thicket. The
honeysucKles and trumpet creepers held
on their green leaves, but the flowers had
vanished, and only few chry ysanthemums
with face downward. a few withered
altheas with some flaming oleanders now
marked the flower beds. But the scarlet
bittersweet and pure white wsxberries lit
up the verandas and mingled with the
feathery globes of the olematis, trailing
luxuriantly over pillar and roof. The
pale autumn sunshine of Indian summer
enveloped the fine old mansion and park
with dreamy atmosphere of repOse,
somewhat discordantly broken by
gay laughter and noisy conversation Of
groups of guests scattered about tbs YER
arrived by invitation to the Thanksgiv-
ing dinner, and the young people had es-
capped from the beautiful old parlors and
were drinking deeply of the enchanted
fountain whose waters flow only for
them. Their elders we're deep in poll
tics, religion and lsw-for litigation is to
the American a legal recreation. Funny
little darkes carried lights or matches
around and something deiig htfully oibu-
lous. Oh, if you could have seen those
DANES OF high degree in the parlors,
dressed in modern silks, garnished with
laces woven in the courts Of the old world
kings and in times OF peril, of life and of
death that had been hastily packed in
old brass bound chests and consigned
unoer cover of night to the carrying ship
that fled before the storms of civil COM
motion as we'll as the wild Atlantic temp
ests.i But in old Virginia they had their
day and gen narations of beautiful women
who chartered about their children, their
recipes for vino, cake and table delica
cies, without a thought Of the stormy
battle of berty.' Occasionally a wave Of
Washington politics would cause some en-
ergetic talk, but it usullay subsidized in
state or county affairs. The new woman
was not yet. The great plantation bell
gave thefsignal for dinner, and the large
company gathered around the huge din
ing table, where delicate napery iay on
the dark carpet or was held IN by heavy
silver salts at either corner. Everything
gustible or edible, cooked fault.essly, was
placed in ine arrangement on either ta-
BILE or siieboard. The old silver tankards,
pitchers, bread baskets, tum blers, 60 bletu,
punch bowls and other past and gone
glories of the old dining regime were
cleaning among cut glass and old china.
The terrapin soup was simmering over
silver chafing dish, of antique shape, and
was succeeded by oysters roasted on q
wood fire. This great red ham was cured
by famous recipe, the roast pig With
red apple in its mouth; the chicken pie,
the canvas-back ducks. saddle of venison.
saddle of mutton, q tongue STEPPED in
Madeira jelly turkey in Gran berry jelly,
all more of less garnIshed with lettuce,
paisley, cut beets and white paper eco-
rations, were fianked with potatoes
beaten to O cream, real sweet potatoes.
sweet cJrn, snow white hominy, hot slaw,
artichokes, celery and chicken salad. This
was followed by courses of ounce, tarts,
Washington pies and pies ad libitum, jel-
lies, whips, preserves ice cream and a va
riety of cakes, ending with nuts, raisins
and other fruits and coffee. The planta-
tion produced most OF the gustibles and
they were prepared by recipes treasured
by the fair mistress VS. she did her Jew.
els. The wines we're from old bins hid
den behind deep arches in the carefully
locked wine cellar whose key was only
in the master or mistress's care. Fine
housekeeping was the accomplishm
of the southern matrOn, and was rot &C.
qulTeu WltHOub SOOu lHStruCIlON anu con-
tnuous practice. Comfort, health and
happiness were the rule in those old time
families when not ruthlessly broken in
upon bv unfortunate feuds. But the dys-
peptic era is upon us, and I doubt that
we shall ever be able again to enjoy that
rich, high Style of cooking that necessi-
tates m uch living and riding IN the open
air in the beautiful climate of the south
ern seaboard.
The loving ice of the house servants
on such an occasion is a beautiful feature
of southern life. The stately Mimi, with
two well-traInsd, pretty yellow girls to
assist her in waiting, and the old body
servant behind the masters chair, watt
ing with courtly grace full of pride in the
family, and doing their utmost to com.
plete the enjoyment of the guests by an
ticipating every wish and watching the
mistress eyes to do her commands. And
then the crowd of joyous, prankish, fun
ny little pickinnies, with scanty clothing
and kinky heads. who stand tiptoe TO
see mIssus in her line irock and the
young ladies with the young gentlemen
"a courtlng." They coulu finely guage
the "de goness" of any one of the fine
peauX.