davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

s'Now that the spicters' have APP
peared would be be good time for a
lot of dark horses to canter into the
field for the various county offices. =
Mitchellville Index"
We might suggest good and com
petent dark hose if candidates Were
not multiplying daily.
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

1t is reported that the White House"
of the Southern Confederacy is now
used as school house for Negro
children. Whata marked improvement.
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10
Lots of Room to Hide.

The New Orleans authorities are
hunting for the second husband of
woman who is under arrest there for
bigamy. Have they examined her bal
loon sleeves?
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

not the welfare of the state and the
Negro race at heart. They simply
want something to talk about. We
need men Of action If we would rise.
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

THE Iowa STATE BYsTANpER is the
only Afro-American Republican paper
in Des Moines and Iowa. It occupies
a position peculiarly its own and
reaches voting class which reads no
other paper. Those candidates who
desire TO reach this class of voters have
availed themselves of the opportunity
Negroes of Polk county will be at the
primaries to assist in electing candi-
dates whom they know to be good and
true men. They have previously failed
to attend caucuses and primaries to
their own detriment, and those who
fail to do 50 this year speak in langu-
age palmer than words that they have
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

Mrs. Eli Elliston left the city Mon
day evening on visit to friends and
relatives in Kansas City and st, louis.
She will be gone three or four weeks.
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

NEW TRAIN FOR PEORIA AND THE
SOUTHEAST.
Iowa state bystander. [volume] (Des Moines, Iowa) 1894-1916, 1895-05-10

Ihere IS cream ana ifiehuly CONTEST
soins on ioi eiie soVeii'oi sup % io"a.
senator iiarsil irieii'is nave ~ liouuceu
q ne" feature - inns canvass W 1iie
organization % i'afsii ci.'os' nc
senator - strong ineiiioei u NY
party ana = ms ADVICE mao oeeh ioi-
lowed py spe last general ASSEMBLY
pronioi.ioi "ouiu lay oeen q oeau
issue 'iiis year ne iiea liial iieuoi
can DC SOU legally ~ iowa anu iiot man
The morning times., 1895-08-04

and vests Of somher mohairs, and sailor
hats, which with other brimmed chapeaux,
are now being much turned up at the back,
Ii teraHy burn with color. Flowers OF
many hUes will be nassed in banks in front.
NEW POISE OF THE HAT.
The hat is put on straight ard then tilted
sharply forward until the flowery brim
sants like the thatch of ore of those
wonderful roof-pairted cottages cometimes
seen on English farms.
The effect is very pretty. AS rule it
is vastly becoming, for under the blossom
ing edge dove eyes grow more dove-like
and flashing ones shine out with added
brilliancy ard coquetry. Sometiems the
color Will be made by scarlet wings or whole
red birds, which, with wings outspread,
Will be poised on the hat like a slim-taile
swallow in flight.
THE "MENDICANT"
Again, certain low crowned, narrow
brimmed sailors, especially those shown by
English men miiliners, Will have trim
mings of fruit that are startlipgly natural
One sailor in this shape recently seen,
owned. together with mixed PUTS, q bunch
of rasins brilliant love-apple, a tiny
mandarin and q great opal-tinted Reine
Claude plum. The sole other trimmings
to the hat, which was of rough red and
brown straw, was wide bias of coarse
The morning times., 1895-08-04
Some Styles for
September
TIME TO THINK OF THE FIRST
COOL DAYS.
Smart Clothes for Those Who
Linger Late at Shore
or Mountain.

New York, Aug. 3.-Autu and winter
modes are as yet blessings of the future,
but some very stunning mid-season things
are to be seen for mountain and seashore
wear.
These, as far as textures and general
shapings, are concerned, show no ap-
preciable divergence from the styles of
thesprng; but skirts are much less 81 iffeued,
1T is remarked, and though fitting more
closely about the hips, in- some cases,
Indeed, as Snugiy as a yoke, they are as
plain as ever.
The 1880 sleeve, which is an accom-
paniment of very long shoulder seam
and dropping puff that hangs low on
the arm is more and more used for even
ing gowns. With street costumes, too,
there seems a growing tendency toward
the lengtheuing of shoulder seams, but
the same familiar mutton legs Of the
winter are with us, aud the only change
is that they fit more closely about the
forearm, aud are rarely, if ever, stiff
fened.
Crnoline, 1t is limited, is TO go, but
who can tell?
Call no man happy until he is dead"
the saying runs. And so, though any
thing and everything is possiDle-eyen
the suppression OF criuoline-nothing can
be said truthfully or a seasons fashion
until il is over
RICH FALL TINTS.
However, some very charming sugges-
tions for autumn are cropping up in late
summer clothes, aud among others is
noticed a wing fondness for color.
Plain silks in brilliant hues, red, and
black, and orange and bro wn form bodices
The morning times., 1895-08-04

Miss Hattie Gammell wore pretty gown
OF pale blue challie sprigged with rose
buds. The skirt was made as most skirts
are here and now fluted a u the way around
except for q narrow fiat front. While
embroidered muslin was set in on either
side OF this front panel, TO look like a
muslin petticoat. The very full, baggy
blouse was or muslin with a muslin fichu
knotted at the waist with blue ribbon.
The front OF the blouse was filled in with
pate blue silk, cut 10 show the throat, with
out the stiff stock in which womankind is
wont to live, move and have its being.
Elbow sleeves OF the challie were tied with
blue ribbons, and the picture hat of white
straw was trimmed with roses and blue
ribbons.
simple casino toilet was worn by
young girl with Mrs l. Townsend
Burden. She played tennis in il after
ward. II was OF pale mauve crepon, the
skirt henmed with embroidery of a deeper
tone. The skirt was fluted as usual and
the dainty blouse bodice was cut with a
square yoke trimmed with more en-
brcIdery. Folded mauve and white silk
made the belt and collar. The white hat
was trimmed with nauve ribbon and green
leaves.
At the last hop one of the most notice
able toilets was that OF Miss Virginia
Fair, who appeared in a full accordion
pleated skirt OF dark green silk muslin,
with round punches OF pink hydrangea
blossoms sewn closely about the hem.
The low-cut bodice was of pale green
muslin spangled with jet and fastened
at the waist with d sash of pale green
ribbon. The elbow sleeves were caught
up with bydrangeas. Miss Fair carried
pale green gauze fan and wore her
hair high and caught with a huge gold
comb. She had white slippers and long
white gloves.
At q small luncheon party given by
Mrs. Alva Vanderbilt the other day Miss
Consuelo wore a cream colored silk frock,
| whose elaborately draped bodice had a
yoke OF Venetian point lace and was
fastened at throat and sleeves by black
The morning times., 1895-08-04

same ribbon made a drapery upon the
shoulders and formed the stock collar
There were balloon sleeves to the elbows,
with long Gseam-colored gloves 10 meet
them. The hat was a black lace toque
trimmed with cornflowers.
Mrs. Henry Clews wore dark green
SIX dress figured in black ard paler green.
The skirt was the fullest / have seen this
summer, ten yards in circumference at
least II hung OF an even length all around
and was UTtrmmed. The bodice opened
IN front upon chemlsette OF white chiffon,
embroidered with green floss ard frilled.
Narrow flat Tevers at the sides were held
by large mother0f pearl buttons. A length
OF chiffon tied in great fluffy bow at the
throat in front. and the waist knot was
green satin ribbon. When Mrs. Clews en-
tered her carriage she spread a green
and black chiffon parasol.
Mrs Herman Oelrichs Wore quiet but
noticeable toilet of pink and white shot
silk with white guipere. The skirt was
iaid in deep folds at the back, but was
lat in front, as Us the summer fashion.
Narrowg gUipurep panels were set inthe side,
with rOSeJtes OF black Ribbon to give them
little life and distinction. The bodice
was close-fitung affair OF silk, but WAS
covered TO the level OF the shoulders by
what was practically a lOw-cUt gUipure
blouse, bagging ever so little at the waist
over a black ribbon belt. The sleeves, in
stead OF seing high upon the shoulders,
followed the other fashion that is struggling
for existence, and Were plated into ribbon
rosettcs, the greatest fUllness coming
just above the elbows A small black
lace bonnet was trimmed with a pink
rose.
The women who Ion in the low-hUng
English carriages on Bellevue avenue at
the driving hour are very clever. When
Tfsar oh,
for brilUancy OF contrast. This after
noon there whirled by me vision OF white
and blue. a blonde girl was all in white
book muslin, ruffled to the waist Her
picture hat was shirred muslin, her para
sol was mus slim. Her gloves and ties were
The morning times., 1895-08-04

the Nlgilant's new master suggested to
his pretty wife the sewing of the colors.
Mrs. G. Oliver Iseln is credited with
making more ship colors than any other
woman IN the world. Even the professional
fagmakers must bow down to her when
II comes to the complete fashioning Of a
nag. Mrs. Iselin can cut the stripeS-if
stripes there be-she can sew them together,
add stars or triangles, or any other geomet-
rlcal figures, ana bring all out as smooth and
handsome as though done by machinery
Her sewing corner, in her husbands country
house, where she sits mornings with
her little stepchilGren, now busiIy at work
upon the Defenders ColOrS, is an arbor
There are trees overhead and vines around
about Her work basket, a spacious affair,
is carried here by the maids. and the thimble
"a needlewoman's decoration of honor
is set with tiny diamonds in a row around
the base. The thimble is gold with a
great deal of marking and chasing upon it.
MRS. .PALMER'S HISTORICAL SPOT.
AIRS. Potter Palmer's boulevard mansion
in Chicago has a sewing corner with a
history. Here there were fashioned before
the fair some OF the choicest things ex-
hibited in needle work. As everybody
knows, Mrs. Potter Palmer is the kirdest
and most generous woman in the woI '.
She returned the SO 600 which Congress-
gave her, and she is generous to every
creature under the sun. Women with
scarcely word of English in their vocabu-
larry would come to her and tell that they
could and would sew. You may sit in my
sewing window and do bit of embroidery
for me-" Mrs. Palmer would say, and
down they would drop into a small square
wooden chair, luxurious with cushions
and flapked by choice flosseS and silks,
and speedily show their patForess what
they could do. That led to employment on
fair work.
When Mrs. Palmer sews she wears a
thimble of silver, with blue stones set
around, or she alterDates with her famous
souvenir thimble. There are precious
stones upon the souvenir and words of
praise that make her value it very highly.
Mrs. Palmer is an expert reedlewoman,
and can embroider. make gowns, and do
all the little bits of sewing that make q
family comfortable at home and which can
be done only by the home-mother.
II Beechwood Inn, the Astor Newport
The morning times., 1895-08-04
SmeI coWns
Seen at Church
WHERE FASHION DISPLAYS
ITSELF AT NEWPORT.
Miss Virginia Fairs Stunning
Costume at the Last
Hop.

Newport, Aug 2-The wise woman who
wishes TO see Newport fashions goes TO
Trinity Church Sunday morning. When
the services are over she slips out promptly
and goes over to All Saints Chapel TO see
the people come out This is a frank con-
fesslon. but in eXtenuation be 1T remem-
bered that for many generations 1t has
been known pSalicly that women look at
bonnets in meeting" SO why not gowns?
II lakes a little frock sometimes TO digest
the sermon. Besides. is one 10 write for
ever about The other days OF the week
and neglect the first one?
A tail English girl, OF brilliant COM
plexion, wore a striking church toilet last
Sunday Ii was princess frock OF a blue
almost as deep as the cornflower shade
The skirt was full-sO fun that 1 guessed
its width at nine yards. II was fIuted,
but not trimmed. The trim bodice caught
the eye at once with its bands of pinky
cream ribbon crossing the shoulders and
drawn below the hips. Each band was en-
broidered delicately with cornflowers in
outline ard edged with jet. Knots OF the
The morning times., 1895-08-04

eIal rows OF stitching over them gave
almost the effect OF braid, but the major
paIt Of the little girl look came in with
the jacket, which with the fronts in one
piece and buttoning back in Ievers, was
exactly like a child's coat. The buttons
Were very large and of black bone, and
black silk covered the revers TO within
an inch of the edge, where the honeycomb
cloth was left to form a border.
The blouse WON under the coat was OF
silk pongee, inky black likewise, curious
to say, but deadly fetching to the russell
haired girls milk-white skin. 1t was
simply gathered in the waist and worn
with a loose sash belt of the same ma
ter ial.
TO WEAR ON THE BEACH
Another natty and useful fTock for sea-
shore wear that seemed almost to have
taken a hint from childish tOggery, was
of dark blue English serge, with a great
sailor collar and big turnback cuffs, covered
entirely with narrow braid in alternate rows
of red, black and biege.
But alas! the giIl who wore this gown
would not stand still long enough to be
sketChed.
Brown novelty wool, roughly tufted and
showing an under-thread of orange, COM
poses the toilet, with the cape, which has
lately been designed for dressy mountain
wear The bodice is laid in three pleats
The morning times., 1895-08-04

white bunting that swathed the crown
loosely, the fruits being heaped at the
left. Taken collectively these fruit hat
trimmings are dubbed by milliners ''men-
Acknowledgements. Ard though an Amer
ican woman is said to have had the distinc-
tion of having the first trimmed of this sort
at the last grand Prix, they get the name
from little dishes of mixed nuts ard raisins
that are served in cheap French restaurants
under this ingenious title.
A CAPE AND GOWN.
And now, to change the subject from
hats TO gowns. Among the mid-season
things mentioned. four costumes and a
cape for chilly days, all of which are here
pictured, We're noticeable for their ex-
treme good looks and usefulness.
The stunringest gown OF the lot has q
brown mixed cheyiot woven with black
and an occasional ''pois' of scarlet. II
is shown in the cut, which represents the
The morning times., 1895-08-04

the front OF every well-appointed vehicle,
was trimmed with scarlet and white rib
bons
Mrs. Elisha Dyer, 1r., was out driving
to-day in piquanUcOStume OF white alpaca.
The full skirt seemed TO be laid in flat plaits
all around. The blouse was of some soft
blue stuff, fastened at the waist by a Fash
OF blue ribbons. An odd little bolero
Jacket OF the white was cut low all
around ard turned over In wide fiat loops
upon the shoulders. Big pearl buttons
trimmed the front. There were enormous
white sleeves and a flat white hat trimmed
with blue and black feathers.
At this mornings concert at the Casino
The morning times., 1895-08-04

velvet bands. Black velvet rosettes caught
the elbow sleeves, and the fluted skirt
was so full as TO hang at the bottom in
ripples.
Pique dressed are seen everywhere and
on all sorts of occasions. They are white,
blue, red, green and figured. In cut they
are rather severe, but look cool and dura.
BILE. Sprlgged cambria is another favor
ite material.
White cycling suits are a novelty. The
material is usually alpaca. Miss Elsie
Clews has one in gray alpaca with white
belt and white shoes laced with red.
The morning times., 1895-08-04

bodice with long shoulder seams and three
straps, which are OF plain scarlet hunters
cloth over cream batiste. The straps end
in little peplum tails below the belt, and
at the back and bust they are loOsened to
allow a bias scarf of black satin to pass
under all around the shoulders, forming a
complete yoke effect and holding the
sleeves down at the top in approved 1880
fashion. The sleeves alone of the bodice
match the skirt in texture, and the hat Is
black rough straw, with scarlet birds.
The morning times., 1895-08-04

white. In her lap she fondled a white
fluffy dog. Beside her sat another blonde
in comflower blue crepon. A deep slashed
collar OF white silk relieved at the throat
its somewhat severe outlines, and narrow
bands OF white embroidery were ar
ranged up and down the princes front.
Her white chip hat was set about with a
thick heavy wreath of cornflowers.
Two other women W no rode together were
dressed, one in white and one in scarlet.
That the effect was intended was evident
from the fact that the little basket for
carriage conYeniences, which lis hung at
The morning times., 1895-08-04

With it she wears a white flat hat trimmed
with roses.
Newport is not the place to see daring
bathing costumes. but there are some
very pretty ones. One that / noticed
this morning was OF green alpaca circled
round and round with white bands. I'm
der the short skirt were knickerbockers
of the same material The belt was white,
the stockings and strapped shoes black.
ELLEN OSBORN.
The morning times., 1895-08-04
Narrow FscaDa

Father" said Johnny Ironside, "how
big a fish did you ever catch?"
II caught catfish once, Johnny" replied
Deacon IIonsides, that weighed
hegood manstopped short, ,lookedfixedly
at his youngest son and resumed in an al
tered tone:
John. this is Sunday y."-YoungstowD o..
TindfcQtoT
The morning times., 1895-08-04

place, could tell its story, it would reveal
a secret of much interest TO women who
are forced to do q little home sewing In
order to have all the numerous outing
dresses OF the summer which they crave
Beechwo Inn has one bay window
which from the outside looks to be branch
OF a conservatory, but inside IL Is lined
The morning times., 1895-08-04

over strips of orange satin covered with
cream batiste, and the cape lining is plain
silk in beautiful yellows and browns. The
high soldier-looking collar, cuffs and belt
are made of the gown stuff lined with
linen canvas and heavily stitched; and a
the cuff the sleeve buttons over, which, by
the way, is very comfortable arrange
ment for sleeves that are intended to fit
snugly at this point.
The remaining toilet is only brown whip
cord, with only close stitching as decoration,
and the cape is of cheeky cheviot, in blue
and white, with a silk lining in a deep huck-
leberry blue.
The hat of the brown toilet is brown
rough straw sailor, in what's known among
English tailoTs as a three-by-three shape.
The Alpines are of the same texture as
the garments with which they are pictured.
The morning times., 1895-08-04

who has just completed one gives as her
recipe thirty yards of rose ribbon, thirty
miles of training vines and thirty little
bags and baskets OF all kinds for sewing
work But the completed object is so very
attractive that looking at it one cannot be-
heye that it sprang into existence in any
other way than by blossonaing and Towering,
Just like the plants in the big window lodges.
CONSTANCE MERRFELD. /,
The morning times., 1895-08-04

This toilet, it may be interesting to know,
was worn a chilly afternoon last week at
Newport by one OF New York's smartest
women.
OF LIGHT, WARM WOOL.
At Long Branch two mornings later
a pretty, russet-haired girl was made
adorable and comfortable in a gown of
blue and black honeycOmb wool, fash
ioned exactly like the fIOcks one sees on
little gIls, The side cores of the skirt,
which was only moderately wide and
slightly stltfened at the bottom, Tapped
so far over the front one that this became
SCARCELY more than a NARROW panel. sew
The morning times., 1895-08-04
Fair hand, fair deed" F"
Fair set fair field

This was the old sa W borne in mind when
The morning times., 1895-08-04

At this mornings concert at the Casino
The Washington times., 1895-01-27
DECIDED IN THE NEGATIVE.
Columbian Law School Believes That Cap.
ital Nor Labor Should Organize.

Columbian Law School Believes That Cap
ital Nor Labor Should Organize
The regular public monthly debate of the
Columbian Law School, given at the univer-
sity building last night, attracted a large
audience, many ladies being present
The subject for discussion was Resolved,
That the organizations OF labor and capital
are FOR the best interests OF society as a.
whole. 1t is live one and was discussed
practical standpoint
The audience was apparently evenly di-
Vlded on the question consequently the argu-
mentative bits Of each side received a gener-
Gus share OF applause. The affirmative of the
subject was presented by Messrs W B. Nixon
c. u. Lane. aud b. NJ. Doyle; the negative
by Messrs. Seth Z. Tracy, H G. Evans. and
Alfred S Dalton.
Mr.. Walter C. Colquit, president of Colum-
bian Debating Society. announced the subject
and introduced the debaters.
Mr.. Nixon, who opened for the affirmative,
held that ali economists claimed that organi-
zation is the power which develops the re-
sources OF a c immunity or country and pro-
tects the Advancement OF society. 1t may be
claimed that all this and moro may be done
by individuals but when that time comes our
The trouble is not, he said. with organiza-
ton, but with waht of organization. If
labor were organized there would BE no
strikes. Proper legislation is what is wanted
TO effect this.
Mr.. Doyle said that in organization lies the
strength, wisdom. and power OF mankind
Trusts and combines were blessi ngs to the
country. the backbone OF trade. Labor or
Ganizes for self-preservation. and can not be
separated from its mother e.pital. To de-
stroy the power Of the laborinl masses is to
DESTROY the nation.
Mr.. Lane, in closing. claimed that 1t was
impossible to separate capital and labor from
society. They are component parts Of one
grand organization which rules the world
Strikes and strikers are condemned, but they
shorten the hours of work and increase the
wages OF the toiing masses.
Mr.. Tracy opened for the negative by call
ing attention to the horrors of the Chicago
and Brooklyn strikes. In the hands OF we'll
organized labor or capital lies the destiny of
every country for good or evil. They cry
equality while they are reeKing with tyranny
Mr. Evans said that all organizations were
created for the purpose of gain, and this
must necessarily result in loss to some one.
1t is a fight of money against muscle, and in
the conflict the great mass OF the people are
crushed.
Mr.. Dalton consumed his time in showing
the fallaey OF the affirmative arguments, and
in picturing what a glorious and peaceful
time there was before the organization of
capital and labor
Messrs. d. S. Foster, William Small and
Charles +. Vaughn. TO whom the arguments
were referred, decided the debate in favor OF
the negative