The morning times., 1895-12-15
WHITE HOUSE DINNERS
They Are Not as Brilliant or as
Frequent as of Old.
IN THE DAYS GONE BY
Some Anecd otes About the State Func-
tions and the Guests During Several
Admini>trat lons-TheM Mansion Was
Modelled After a Dukes Palace.
Bnronial Appearance of Interior.

State dinners. given at intervals during
the sessions of Congress, were long ex-
acted by custom of the Presidents of the
Republic. and while they have not been
as frequent of late years as formerly, 1t
IS not Officially announced that there is
TO be no more of this form OF hospitality.
The affairs or a Chief Executive, like
those of the common people, must be
expected to govern the degree of his
scciability-at least in measure-and
for one and another reason the custom
has at times lapsed into a memory.
During almost the whole of President
Lipfolns term it was more honored in
the breach than the observance" for
obvious reasons, but President johnson
restored the program more or less elabor-
ately, and under President Grant 1t was
prominent feature of life at the White
House.
steward Nelah." an Italian noted for
his high associations in that relation and
with an established record, was IN the
Grant regime employed to look fter
the details of the Presidents state din
ners-a high-tUned official he was. whose
regret bordered n,lespair when called upon
TO set" the table for such occasions with
the limited supply of silver TO which the
establishment was reduced.
TWENTY NINE COURSES.
description Of one of the most note
worthy of President Grants dinners comes
down to the present day with much minute
ness. 1t consisted of twenty mine courses
the tlrst of soup, OF course but such soup
as Prof" Melah only could supply. 1t
was said III be composed of French
Vegeta Die. combination of French veCe:
tables. il may have been, and was de-
scrfbed by one so fortunate as TO have
been a guest on the occasion as "a little
smoother than peacock's brains, but not
quite SO exquisitely Favored as 4 dish of
nightfngale's tongues; and no man or
woman was ever able to obtain the stew
ards recipe for the making of tue incom-
parable stew"
Following the soup came French GRO
quette of meat. and the third course con-
sisted of "A fliet of beef flanked on each
side by potatoes the size of walnut.
with plenty OF mushrooms to keep them
company"
Through sheer want of words for proper
expression of ideas OF an ideal feast. The
description OF the edibles closed with an
apology. preceded by the observation that
the next course was dainty In the ex-
treme. 1t was made up entirely OF the
luscious legs Of partrilges and baptized
Dy French name entirely beyond com
prehension."
Inc dessert is. however, given touching
up ana II Is also stated that ''the meridian
or noon OF the feast was marked by tthe
guests being served bountifully with frozen
punch" Wine was served about every
third course"
The dessert was ''inaugurated by the de.
Nruction OF rice pudding-such a pudding
as would make our great grandmothers
cap their hands I'm Joy" and no plebeIan
pie or pastry was permitted 10 keep it com
pany.
After the pudding came the more ordi
nsry variety OF the species dessert, the
Thole concluding with ice cream, coffee.
and chocolate, I'm the order named.
Conversation at State dinner cannot