The Van Buren press., 1895-05-18
THE SHIRT WAIST.
Suggestions and News About the Styles
for the Summer.

for the Summer.
The shirt waist has evolved itself out
Of the amateurs hands. 1t must be
made by tailor to be correct. Even
the couturiere is considered incompet-
ent when it comes to the intricacies OF
gusset and band fold.
As for the dozen cambria affairs
made at homo to serve for the sum-
mer's necessities, why, they are not to
be mentioned in the same sentence
with the full-bosomed creation that
costs from four dollars to six dollars
apiece, and has to be laundered by
professional.
The raiscn d'etre Of this seemingly
extravagant change is this: Shirt
waists no longer remain an unimport-
ant factor in the heated seasons, to be
slipped on under blazer or Figaro
jacket. They constitute the signiti-
cant item of ones outdoor wardrobe.
They are permissible everywhere, from
the roof gardens at night to morning
luncheon. They are worn without
outside covering, and should therefore
be perfect in cut and correct in style.
Madras cheviot and piques are mate
rials best liked The cheviot of new.
est variety is termed honeycomb, for
reason of raised ridge full of small
cells that forms stripe of the materi-
al. 1t is extremely pretty, but fear
the laundress will shake her head du-
biously at it. The Madras Is the same
we have worn for three years, and the
pique is as delightfully."- old-fashioned
as a modern woman could wish it.
The character of the cloth is gener-
ally shown in stripes; checks are not
favored; dots are even less popular;
broad or aggressive patterns are vul-
gar, SO the stripes are Hobson's choice.
Among the samples shown at two
fashionable shirt tailors', solid colors
were relegated to the back pages.
Those brilliant pinks and blues that
formerly confronted promenaders last
summer have sunk forever into innoc-
uous desuetude, let us hope.
In patterns, the severe style with
stiffened bosom has gone out. 1t never
was becoming, but the gracefully full
waist is. A slight fulness is gathered
into the neck and shoulder bands, pro-
viding for breadth across the bust. A
narrow fold is stitched over the shoul-
ders and the waist securely fastened
into broad belt, a far safer arrange
ment than the amateur draw-string
Sleeves, of course, are large, ending in
link cuffs For these sleeves fifty
cents is charged extra in the making
of the skirt.
The collars are built up very high; II
they are turned over the height ex-
tends to two buttons, and then turns
sharply back, giving stand-up effect.
Extremists will wear plain white col
lars on the striped shirts, and it is an
economy, for, frequently, shirt that
is almost fresh has to be discarded in
TO the laundry because the collar is
soiled.
A box plait is put down the front
and back of some shirts, in considers
ton of the prevailing fashion in wool
and silk waists and others more dressy
have a pointed sailor collar added be-
low the yoke, whose ends extend far
over the sleeve.
For the rest, the waist remains as
last year-the fashlon ana nt OF ~ 0e-
pending upon the tailor's art that built
it up.
Women will struggle this season
over the fat tie instead of the four-in-
hand. Satin will not be worn, but
grosgrain silk takes its place. Tho
Derby, which was SO popular in Lon
don last fall, will have its advocates
among the ''sportily" inclined girls
This variety OF tie is Of Scotch linen
in most brilliant-ahd, to the unin-
itiated-unharmonio colors. The
stiff plaid cheviot tie will also be in
vogue.
Plain gold or medium-sized pearl
studs are to be the correct thing, the
jeweled and oxidized variety left to
center box plait Of the woOlen gowns.
philadelphia Press.