The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-06-21
A FARM CALENDAR.

1t seems to me that a planting calendar
for the farm and garden will be helpful
10 many, and SO L propose to give one;
put 1t must be remembered that l write
Tor my own latitude, 1872, so that one in a
dlnerent latitude must modify his prac-
tee. There is a loss in two ways from
not UNDERSTANDING when 10 plant, first
from planting tender Vegetab es too cary
ana losing them entirely, and second,
from deferring the planting of hardy veg
etableS until late, and dong without them
Tor weeks, when you nigh be using them.
The condition of soil ana vitality of seed
has much TO do with the termination of
seed. and successful growth of early
crops, and this suggests that the garden
should be Weel drained, and thoroughly
manfred, and | find that fall poughng
IN narrow lines, say sixteen feet wide,
with the dead burrows cleared out, so as
TO give surface drainage, will enable one
10 plant hardy vegetables on an average
ten days earlier than if things were neg
lected. AS an example of how the vital
ity of seed is affected by the trea tment,
corn gathered early and thoroughly dried
by fire heat may be planted in March,
ana VIII come up, and grow with great
VlSor when corn from the same field,
cr1obed and handled in the usual way,
VIII sometimes fail to come up at all.
here is list of our hardy vegetables
Whlch always plant at the earliest date
that the land can be prepared, which is
usually the first half of March: Beets,
radishes, spinach, peas, curled cress, let
tuce, cabbage, onions and celery the lat
ter to grow plants. The celery seed should
be sown on the surface, and pressed into
the earth by running a wheel over il, or
pressing with the foot. The ground may
freeze quite hard, or snow lie on the
ground for days after any of these are
planted, without hurting them, and even
after they are up they will all of them
pear quite severe frost. | always plant a
few potatoes also, at this first planting,
but we make a deep furrow-or stretch a
line and make holes with the spade-and
put our seed down five inches deep, and
n traX ma
over the seed, and earth above. In 1894
planted potatoes March in this way and
the morning of March rs the mercury was
at Il degrees, and the ground remained
frozen hard for several days, yet not
hill of my potatoes froze, and we had
early potatoes and fine yield from them.
In April we make two paintings more OF
peas, and by the middle of the month,
with favorable weather, we plant the ear
~ varieties of sweet corn and the black
wax beans for snaps, and more radishes
to keep up the succession. A second
planting of sweet corn the last of April
should be of two kinds-one early, the
other. Cabbage and caulifiower may be
set by the middle of the month with
plants from the cold frames or hotbed.
May-Early this month another planting
OF peas should be- made, which is as late
as care 10 plant them, as late peas are
likely 20 mildeW. Tomatoes may be set in
the open ground and seed sOwn i'll the
garden TO produce late plants TO be set
in vacant ground after early peas and po-
tatoes are gathered These late-set to-
mato plants will give fruit good and fresh
when the early ones are past bearing;
and, by putting straw on them at the ap-
proach of frost, you can often have fruit
month after hard frost has ruined thoso
Unprotected. Plant beans twice at least
in May, to keey up the succession, ana
the last of the month, when the weather
is settled and the land warm, plant the
limas. Early sweet potatoes may be SCI
from the middle to the last of the month,
but the main crop is usually set the first
ten days in June. Cucumbers and melons
may be planted the first week In May II
the weather is favorable, and you pre-
pare boxes to cover them, but the main
crop is to be grown in the field; 1t is best
not to plant until settled warm weather,
which. with us, is rarely until the later
half of May.
The main crop of winter cabbage should
be Sown about the middle of May, and If
a large amount of plants are wanted an
other sowing ten days later. These are
sown quite thickly in drills, and are ira s.
planted in July and early August for WIN
ter use.
The June planting includes beans and
sweet corn, and of the later there should
be at least two paintings, and any Vege-
table past use-such as early radishes,
peas, spinach and creSS-Should be re-
moved and the land mellowed and occu-
pied with these later crops. Potatoes can
often be marketed at prifit the last OF
June, and a second vegetable crop grown
on the land. This is the best month for
planting cucumbers for pickles, and as
good crops as | ever grew were planted
the very last of the month. If from any
cause the earliest planted melons have
failed, keep planting up to the middle of
June. as growth is very rapid at this sea-
son. and thrifty vine ready to run by
July l may be better than stunted one
planted a month earlier.
We do little planting in July, but usu-
ally plough up strawberry bed which is
past profitable bearing, and always make
one planting of sweet corn between the
1st and the 10th. This rarely fails to give
October roasting ears, and If 1t should,
will make valuable feed for the cows
at a season when pastures are short. Cab
bage and caulihower can be set out, a
few more beans planted, and the very last
of the month turnips may be sown, but
for the main crop | prefer to SOW about
August 10, but as a stand of turnipS is
hard to get except in showery weather.
and July and August are usually dry
months-it is best to take advantage of
favorable conditions and sow turnips at
any time after July 20.
Strawberries and other small fruits
should always be put out in early spring
and this is the best season for most fruit
trees, particularly on clay soils.-Waldo
+. Brown.
ON sWARMING AND HIvING BEES.
The bees swarm because their natural
instinct is to multiply themselves. and be
cause their home becomes too small and
warm. The bees in small hives will swarm
Earlier and more in number If left TO |
other things being equal
Now, if we wish to control the swarming |
and we must if we expect TO |
get good crop of honey, have found by
long experience that good sized hives are
better than small ones. l think ii is bet |
ter to give them room to occupy just as |
soon as the strength of the colony will |
permit-dont wait till your hive is chock- |
full of bees. BY giving room in advance
they will not be apt to swarm so early, |
and when swarm comes off il will be
very large. Such sWarms are A No. l for |
making comb for extracted honey.
A record should be Kept OF the date of |
he Swarnlipg, because i'll seven or eight |
days we must go through the parent hive |
md dispose of all the surplus queen-cells, !
as only one queen IS necessary Tor each |
colony. At such times the opportunity is |
good to supersede poor stock with good. |
If the surplus lueen-cellS are not cut out |
there will nearly always be several after |
sWarms, or casts, which ara very annoy |
ng, as such IRE often hard to manage |
md Improbable: unless We want increase. |
By managing thus, you have only dou- |
oled your stock, and your bees should be |
n prime order to get honey.
l will give q few thoughts about swarm |
ng and hjving the bees. The old Way |
lsed to b., when the bees sWarmed the !
he bells and the tin pans, and there was |
lin and clatter until the bees settled, |
which was not nearly as soon as they |
would have if the'y had been alone. 1t is |
lear by, but should aot be allowed 10 get |
over about twelve -eet high-smaller are |
the bees to cluster on No |
arge trees should be near the apiary, as |
hey are apt. to make trouble. If you |
rave no trees, just go TO the woods and cut |
about two rods. Put down as you would I
hop-pile. The bees will cluster or them |