The herald., 1895-02-17
SOr1E NEW YORK FASHIONS

Sleeves are still very large while skirts
grow more and more voluminous. Almost
no draperies are seen. These new skirts
absolutely require to be lined all through
with horse hair to hang well, and the
best dressmakers are also inserting two or
three rows of fiat wire in the hens. So il
can be easily seen that it is no unusual
thing to have the lining cost more than
the outside. For visiting, and all quasi
ceremonious costumes, these skirts are
trimmed in all sorts of ways, sometimes
right around and sometimes down each
seam. The bodice is often of a different
material, say of velvet, but with corse-
let and wristbands to match the skirt,
that there may be no suggestion of ''econ-
omy'' in the whole. Open worked en-
broidered skirts are seen principally i'll
cloth and other wooden materials. Some
ladies line them with colored silk. and
others with white silk. Belayeuses are
also made of this same open-,worked cloth
lined with colored silk, and sometimes
silk is worked and lined in the same way
for balayeuse purposes.
Many new French toilettes have con-
trasting bodices or blouses with box
pleat in front, and are fastened at the
back or under the arm; on many this
pleat is continued down the skirt. AS
such corsages may be finished off with
yoke or loop trimmings of various shape
and make, the fashionable ornamental
tions which take the first place this season
are of great value. They are composed of
open embroidery, passementeries, and
lace set between the stuff, also OF trellis-
like parts cut out of the material itself,
always mounted on silk of another, often
glaring color or pure white SILK. White
lace trimmings are embroidered with jet
black lace with wax beads and steel span
giles. Leaf shapes have put Eiffel points
somewhat in the shade, while tassels,
pendants, chains and festoons of white and
black lace and embroidery, in fantastic
FORMS are almost as distingue as single
lace medallions and diamond squares of
black and dark bugle embroidery. Silk
and ribbon give the finishing touch to all
these arrangements, the latter often form
ing revers on the front of the bodice, and
trimming the skirt almost down to the
hem, fastened on the right and left side
with large bows, lengttfwise trimming
being greatly in vogue. Word comes from
Paris that MANY of the most fashionable
women are selecting cornfiower blue as
keynote for their smart toilettes.
And apropos of the French capital, the
great Doucet is preparing the most ravish
ing of tea-gowns and deshabilles, in which
the gay mondaines may take little we'll
earned rest during their enforced Lenten
quietude. The most salient feature OF
these negliges is the long stole pleat on
either side of the front, falling usually
from the bust, and very often gathered
after it has been pleated in order to re-
duce the width of the pleat, especially
when this is both broad and deep. In
other respects there is no great novelty in
the general outline, and there is in fact
very little scope for variety, as the first
essential of the dress is that it should be
easy, loose, or nearly loose, and falling in
soft folds, unbroken by seam joining
the skirt to the bodice, from the neck to
the feet. In the ornamentation and de-
fail c Of ha Ton. ra ms fas
cinating novelties, and no material is too
rich or beautiful for the purpose.
lovely gown prepared for fashion,
able Parisienne is of copper-colored vel
vet, with full front of the palest water
blue silk crepe and deep collar and sleeve
sleeves and at the waist add chic touch.
The stole pleats in this model are not very
deep, and are only slightly gathered where
they are joined to square yoke concealed
by the lace collar. The long, sweeping
pleats at the back so becoming to the fig
Waiting the clumsinesss that would result
from carrying them up the neck.
Another dainty tea jacket destined to
be sent to America, is of chine silk with
the ground in lovely shade of pale green,
and opens in front over an accordion
pleated plastron and basque of palest pink
| chiffon; lace fiounces fall over the turned
| back revers, and the sleeves, gathered up
at the seam, are finished off with deep
ruff1es. The back of the jacket has a row
of fine pleats down the center and at the
| side seams which run up to the shoulder.
A draped collar of chiffon and bows Of
satin ribbon complete this fascinating
garment. VOC I'l'i WI
A very lovely tea gown in black and
pink striped silk was made with Wat
teau pleat and bertha of black velvet
round under this bertha at the neck the
,aI fuI ct 10Th
of pink satin trimmed with lace,
joined to chemisette of pink satin and
gathered up at the neck, where the gown
was finished off with full ruche of black
lace, pink bows nesting in the folds on
either side. The fronts were mounted
with box pleats, gathered at the top I'M
der the velvet bertha.
In London new style of dress is now
in vogue for dinner and theater wear, and
is something like loose fronted princess
dress; very beautiful materials are en-
ployed for these gowns, rich silks, satins,
brocades and short velvets are the favor
ties, and the trimmings consist OF elabo
rate bead concentrations, lace and fur,
especially ermine. A loose dress in shot
copper-colored velvet is made with
blouse front gathered at the neck and
finished off with a deep collar of etamine
sleeves end in deep cuffs of guipure
and etamine. Another is pink sat
in with front and cuffs of
ermine, and deep collar of Renaissance
guipure falling low over the shoulders. A
costume in straw -colored and white broche
is made with a loose, full front of lace,
cut low and mounted Oh a band covered
with skunk, and trimmed down with red
ingote fronts, round the edge and on the
draped sleeves with fur; and still another
lovely gown is in a pinkisb 1sshade of
dahlia plush with deep collar. and front
of ivory satin and guipure appliques.
The popularity of the double or the
single cape wanes not at ALL Indeed, it
grows ever and always apace. One lately
worn by a fashionable woman was made
of the new vicuna cloth in drab, inter
woven with pale blue-a fact which was
revealed in the top cape, while the under
one was lined throughout with squirrel of
the best quality and round the neck was
collar OF chinchlla. These capes for the
most part only reach just below the waist,
covering the elbows well, and they are
almost as becoming to the short woman as
they are to her tall sister. Later on we
shall probably see them made of light
colors for spring wear and ornamented
with cloth appliques or perforated bands.
PatientDoctor, do you think you ought
to believe everything you hear?
Physician with his ear to the stetho-
scope)-Yes when | know I'm getting
some inside information. Hold still a mo-
ment.-Chicago Tribune.
Subscriber-What! No fire in the stowe