Daily independent. [volume] (Elko, Nev.) 188?-1915, 1895-08-26


My first visit to the now famous
Glacier bay of Alaska was made toward
the end Of October, 1870, when young
ice was beginning to form in the branch
inlets occupied by the glaciers, and the
mountains were mantlcd with fresh
snow all the way down from the high
est peaks and ridges of the Fairweather
range nearly to the level of the sea.
II had spent most of the season ex-
Dloring the canyon of the Stickecn river
and its glaciers, and small portion of
shc interior region beyond the Coast
mountains, on the divide of some of the
Southcrly tributaries of the Yukon and
Mackenzie rivers. When 1 got back to
my headquarters at Fort Wrangel,
about the beginning of October, it
seemed too late for new undertakings
in this icy northland. The days were
growing short, and winter with it's
heavy storms was drawing nigh, when
avalanchcs would be booming down the
long white slopes of the peaks, and all
the land would be buried.
But, on the other hand, though this
white Wilderness was new to me, was
familiar with storms, had enjoyed them,
knowing well that in right relations
with them they arc ever kindly. The
main inland channels, extending in
every direction along the coast. remain
open all winter; and their shores being
well foreStcd, it would be easy to keep
warm i'll camp, while in Il large canoe
abundance of provisions could be
carried. l determined, therefore, to 60
ahead as far north as possible, with or
without companions, to see and learn
what | could, especially with reference
to future work. When | made known
my plans TO Mr.. Young, the Wrangcl
missionary, he offered to go with me.
and with his assistance 1 procured a
good canoe and n crew of Indians,
gathered IL large stock Of provisions,
blankets, etc, and on October II set
forth, eager to welcome whatever Wild
ness might offer, so long as food and
iircwoOd ShOuld last. We
made Il journey more than eight hun
bred miles long; and though hartlshiDs
were encountered, and n few dangers,
the wild wonderland made compensa-
ton beyond our most cxtravagant
hopes
THE first stages of our journey were
about half bright, and VIC Hlillcl along
the green and yellow shores in comfort,
the lovely islands passing in har-
monious succession, like ideas in Il fine
poem. The rain did not hinder us, but
whom the wind was too wild VIC STAYED
N camp, the Indians usually improving
,uch storm times in deer hunting.
while | examined the rocks and woods.
Most Of our camps were made in hooks
that were charmingly c:nbowcrcd, and
fringcd with bushes and late flowers
About noon we discovered the
first of the great GlaciCr#-thc one |
aftcrward named for Gciliic. the noted
Scotch EcoloTist. It's lofty blue cliffs,
looming up through the dragglcd skirts
of the clouds, gave a tremendous
impression of savage power, while the
roar Of the newborn iccbergs thicllcned
and emphasized the general roar of the
storm. An hour and half bcyond the
GCillic glacier we ran into slight har-
Dor where the shore is low, drargcd the
canoe beyond the reach of G..2tinr ice
bcrgS, and, much against IL desire TO
push ahead, Cncampcd, tn, vuidc in
Sisting that the big ice mou, m at the
head of the bay could not reached
before dark. that the landin ere was
dangerous even in dayligl Id that
this was the only safe he on the
way to it. While camp was r made
] strollcd along the shore &Xaminc
the rocks and fossil timber abound
here. All the rocks are fresl .aciated
even below the sea level ave the
waves as yet worn off the ice pol
iSh, much less the heavy hes and
grooves and lines of glacia tour.
1.-The next day being law, the
minister wished to stay il ND; and
so, on account Of the wcaf did the
indians. l therefore set o. | an ex-
rurGiOn, and spent tho day: @ on the
mountain slopes above IT,, mp. md
to the north of it, to sec V, [ mirht
learn. Pushing on throug rain and
mud and slLAgy snow, Gro nr many
brown, bowldrr-cholscd tor. hts, wad-
ing, jumping, wai!owiD" in S, ow to nv
shoulders, had u dc&i'nratcl. hard and
UDnDCrp,tc fi,,,C