The Portland daily press., 1895-11-16

plique trimming cut out in wheel notches
and bordered with narrow gilt braid.
These rows of velvet applique were set on
each of the four front seams and reached
from top to bottom. The waist was plain
in front, with short position in the
back; the sleeves, gigot. Down the front
of the waist there was one row of the vel
vet applique, and it Tapped to the left side.
Over this gown was a deep cape of the
same material lined and interlined. 1t was
scalloped around the lower edge, and in
each scallop was handsome pattern part
ly embroidered in black silk and partly
velvet applique and bordered with narrow
gilt braid. The collar was very I'gh and
bordered with black fur. This was arranged
SO that 1t could lie fat or be brought up
close around the ears, and it gave the wom-
an a deiiciously cozy and bundled up ap-
pearance.
The other lady had a rich brown cheviot
with narrow wales, but fuzzy effect. The
skirt was circular, all except the front
breadth. This was cut to appear all in one
piece. with plastron on the waist, and ii
was bound with tan braid. There were
four gilt buttons below and four above
the belt. The waist fastened inyisibly IN
der the plastron front, which really was
about as ugly and ungraoeful a thing as
one could imagine. The collar was close
rundown and the sleeves bishop, with
brown velvet cuffs headed by a narrow tan
silk braid. We know that beneath that
waist there was sung channels vest, don t
we, sisters?
At the great food show last week I saw
coat that struck me by it's richness and
originality. 1t was worn by Miss Emma
.&sickels, popularity known as the heroine
z of the Pine Ridge agency. She is now the
head of the four lovely booths, where they
teach the "little mothers, F" and incident
ally the little wives, how to cook. She
wore o black grosgrain skirt, plain but
ample, and over that Louis XVI cut
away coat Of black velvet, SO thickly en-
broidered with fine cut jet that the velvet
was scarcely visible The rather mannish
shape Of this coat was very striking, but
its superb characterization called forth
many admiriEg glanoes as the slender,
active figure ca this energetic and remark
able woman fitted to and fro, fuller of
business of all kinds than President Cleve-
land. Business and brainy women these
days feel that they have a right to the
pretty things as well as those who do not
toll or spin, but whose husbands do.
The ball season is close at hand now,
and there are such dainty, lovely things
for such purposes. The silk inulls and
soft China and Japanese crepes are among
the prettieste and they come in all the new
shades. Very glossy taffetas are shown for
young ladies. There Is one very charming
design where the taffeta is shot with sill
very white. The color may be pale blue,
a delicate sage green or perhaps faint
coral pink or some other light tint, but all
are shot with white. The taffeta is usu-
ally plain, bus in some pieces there are
tiny white brocaded or swivel dots, squares
or very small flowers Young girls in
their first or second seasons should wear
plain bodied goods and depend upon their
simplicity for effect. Girls in their second
season may have their gowns hand painted
or otherwise decorated. A pale pink moiri
ball dress had pattern of pink flowers
onInted on the skirt SO as to show upon