Omaha daily bee., 1895-10-06
Fashion Nofrs.

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large sailor collar OF fur or velvet.
A pink taffeta is veilsd with muslin dec
Grated with trailing bunchss OF flowers down
each side.
Lace or chiffon over satin IS used for even
ing waists, some OF which are ablaze with
spangled garnitures.
Some OF the new black lace medallion pat
termed insertions for panels. %petticoat fronts
and waist and sleeve decorations are a quar-
ter of a yard wide.
In trimmings a novelty is ostrich tips of
gray. laid fiat and open, rather than curled,
joined with a heavy passementerie of smoked
pearl ornaments.
At a recent wedding the green OF the
brides bouquet was myrtle cut from a root
that was grown from a sprig taken from her
mothers marriage bouquet.
A view Of new autumn millinery leaves the
impression that the one and only idea of the
designers has been to see how much garni-
ture and how many colors could be jumblsd
into a given space.
The fall cycling hats are of the softest felt.
The crowns are indented. and have turned-up
brims, and the sole trimming is a band of
ribbon with a wing or quill. The hats are
all as light as a feather, but very pretty.
Exquisite hand-painted muslins are likely
to be the rage In the immediate future.
They are as delicate and flmsy as cobwebs,
and yet the painted decorations stand out
plainly against the sheen of the underdress
of silk.
Tartan velvets and black and white check
velvets pare trimmed with satin ribbons and
cut steel buttons, and glossy MORE, Persian
fur, or narrow bands of rich brown fur
trim velvet waists to be worn on the
promenade in lieu of a wrap.
Immense empire bows with buckles of gilt
tering Irish diamonds in the csnter are set
upon round hats Of fine French felt, trimmed
with velvet. Other large bows Of e%cru-col-
ored guipure are covered with spangles, and
have a narrow edge of fur along the selvage
side of the loops.
The new belts are not belts at all. but
straight girdles, some as wide as seven
inches. They are shown in various mate
rails, from gold and silver to leather, some
plain and some spangled, all provided with
huge buckles. The stout, short-wainted
woman will do well to admire and leave
them--in the shop window.
New plaids are constantly appearing, and
those who admire and can wear them have
ample scope for choice this season. The
Forbes, the Mackenzie, the Gordon, Camp
bell, and the famous Forty-second Tartans
are all in evidence. These plaids show much
combination Of green, with black and blue or
red with black, the union of colors which
fashion just now particularly affects.
French coats of finished cloth, i'm
ported to wear with various dresses, come in
dark SHADES of russell brown, green, blue,
and the always popular black. Among Tho
models is one of Russian green cloth, made
with full skirt, the upper portion of the coat
trimmed with velvet and richly jetted passe-
menterie, a singular addition being a broad
bias band Of black velvet encircling the waist.
Some of the newly imported black toilets
are exceedingly elegant. The combination
of black and white is still in highest vogue
and has the merit. If artistically designed,
OF giving a distinguished appearance to the
Wearers. Black lace over white silk and
chiffon Is lovely. Black satin duchess is
frequently used for the richly trimmed skirt
OF the dress, with a white satin bodice as its
accompaniment draped with white chiffon.
Among the dressy toilets for autumn are
those Of crisp taffeta in Dresden or old
chintz patterns, the skirt made up over
moreen interlinings. Some of these are in
colonial style. Others are more fancifully
made, with sash and ribbon trimmings
matching the hue of the chintz or Dresden
design. The patterns and colorings of these
silks, intended for demi-dress uses, rival
most successfully the much more expensive
evening silks whose devices they so closely
copy.
Wide handsome ribbons are again to fall
from the nape Of the neck a la Vatican on
evening dress bodlces. Ruches, Empire bows,
%cOquilles and choux OF ribbon, and sashes
tied on one side or at the back, will be every
where in evidence in the world of fashion.
Bows with long loops and ends will be worn
on the shoulders, and ribbons will lie fiat on
dress skirts, narrowing TOWARD the waist,
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cry, both for autumn and winter hats and
bonnets.
The new chameleon silks of the season
make up very handsomely with plain surahs
which show one shade Of the changeable silk
dotted with silk of the other tint. For ex-
ample. a violet apd green shot taffeta is COM
bined with a ~lustrous French surah of mig
nonette green, thickly dotted with silk spots
of a beautiful hellotrope shade, a trifie less
rosy in hue than the violet color in the
taffeta. The skirt is gored, and the medium
length Louis XIV. coat has immense fiat
revers Of green velvet lined with violet silk.
Yellow brocades made up in Josephine or
Marie Antoinette fashion will be exceedingly
fashionable for full dess toilets this winter.
Yellow brocade is an eminently rich looking
textile in any Of the various shades in which
brocade is produced, the floral patterns glim-
mering with either silver, pearl, or opal
lights. A brunette with or without color
looks here best in one of the deeper tones
jonquil or buttercup, for example, and blonde
women, once said Mr.. Worth, "can just as
well wear many of the yellow shades as they
can sit in the sunshine" They often look
most charming in delicate canary or primrose
relieved with lace. Yellow Is a color that
shows up most attractively under artificial
light, and looks rich, warm and sumptuous
against blue, green and many of the lovely
dyes in mauve, which unfortunately takes
on metallic lights under gas or electricity.
1t is an excellent foil to black, however, and
does not kill red when in proximity.