The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-03-17

vival of the old style transparent silk,
known long ago as silk tissue which /
mentioned last week, there comes the news
of a new material like silk called "crash
crepon," a mixture of silk and mohair,
which is selling in light colors, as are also
lappetlng OF lace which are introduced at
intervals into nuns yelling for skirts. One
never wearies this season learning of pref
ty waists, as the skirts can leave so little
said about them. Two French waists show
how well satin ribbon can be used as a
trimming. One of these is blue and gold
brocaded silk, made with three bouiIlonnes
down the front, divided by filings of blue
satin ribbon lined with yellow satin ribbon
and appearing beyond the edge so that
both colors show. The back was trimmed
In the same manner.
The other was currant red and black,
with handsome epauletteS formed of black
satin ribbon edged with red, the same
omblnatlon forming the bodice garniture.
This had movable V-shaped front, rem
dering 1t useful for evening wear.
l cannot imagine more charming gown
for a debutante than one recently de-
signed. 1t is of white faille, with wide
bands of lace insertion let into the skirt
jour, and the large sleeves are made of
the same combination, while the bag
like front of the bodice was composed en-
tirely of strings of white hyacinths
III same
flower being carried over each shoulder
The swell New York modistes have i'm
ported a few white satin fronts for evening
gowns, richly embroidered. One very
beautiful one is owned by a young matron
of this city, so some of you will see it be-
fore long.
One OF these artistic fronts displayed
lovely garlands of lilac and carnations in
natural colors, interspersed with minute
gold paillettes. Another was entirely en-
broidered IN roses, garlands of gold
sequlns being intermixed while a
white MORE skirt had Jet embroidery
formed in stripes, between which were deep
points of fine tabour work in pale dainty
colorings, blue true-lovers knots mingling
with the flowers. Like all the latest de-
signs this year, these embroideries start
from the waist and descend thence fire.
quently in points on the skirt. They are
works of art. and with bright satin OF vel
vet trains can hardly be surpassed in
beauty. Silver embroideries of all kinds
are effective on light blue and other tones.
Many waists are trimmed entirely with
garniture ready prepared to slip over the
silk or satin. Par example, some hand
some shoulder epaulettes of the finest
guipure, united by band across the neck;
falling from this is a continuous fringe of
black rat-tail chenille, which forms a
pouch trimming Some beautiful fabrics
for draping bodices are handsomely en-
broidered IN pearls, forming grapes, with
gold leaves.
An English firm, world-famous for their
smart dresses, have just designed one
which is very swell 1t is in the fashion,
able shade of blue cloth. The Jacket ends
at the waist and fits closely, being short
wasted and fastened with double row of
steel-cut buttons. There is a habit shirt
beneath, made of white MORE, with box
q n han fae+ 4 4.
buttons; cleverly arranged cravat of lace
descends from the neckband and surrounds
the box-plalt. 1t is a simple gown, but ad-
mlrable in its simplicity.
green serge model has an original
skirt which opens on the hips to show a.
green underskirt, the serge forming points
back and front, apparently fastened to the
bodice with large buttons. AT the back
the point is sufficiently wide to form three
narrow box pleats. The waist has a full
vest OF lighter green, over which comes
large pointed revers and a sort of pointed
hablr-shirt, made of the darker green serge,
through which the lighter green shows.
The large, full sleeves have cuffs turned
down over the hand. The shade known as
pain brulle, or burnt bread, enjoys
popular favor. A pretty skirt of this shade
IN cloth was draped on the right side, dis
playing at the foot the new ''punched-out"
cloth OF green shade embroidered in Jet;
it had also side panels of the green; the
bodice took the form of a cuirass made of
the .open-work green cloth. The waist
band was of Jet laid over green.
| am so fond of tea gowns that 1 never
miss chance of describing one, and now
l have a good excuse for have read of
one which is new in several particulars.
tits handsome gown in primrose mousse
line de sole. This light material through
out is tucked horizontally, and between
every third or fourth tuck there is a band
of EN- broidered tulle This in itself is new.
but newer still is an over bodice made la
russo, made of bright golden brown
liberty satin bordered with embroidered
tulle. 1t is described as being the exact
reproduction of the loose side fronts of a
Russian coat, and opens to show the
mousseline de sole back and front. but is