The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-04-21
WOMAN OF FASHION.


summary look. and only straw hats are
allowable as headgear. The woman who
appears in a felt hat after Easter is al
most as much out of date as the man who
does not buy his straw hat until June or
July. Fur boas are discarded and wraps
are the shortest of short capes. Feather
boas. which were exchanged for some
thing warmer during the winter. have
come out again In all their glory They are
better for cool days than the flower boa.
as the latter is chiefly lovliness. with very
little warmth thrown in. Sometimes
when the flowers are mounted on ribbon,
there is a little warmth in a boa, but such
Will be better for hot days when prOtec-
ton is not the chief consideration. \
pretty boa which will be just the thing
for those days that are to come is made OF
a long strip of black ribbon. which has
punches of roses and leaves set on a in
tervals around the neck, with long ends
of ribbon and sprays of flowers hanging
down in front. This style of boa is less
brilliant than the k.nd made entirely of
flowers. and Is. therefore. preferred by
those who follow Polcnius' advice TO be
rich but not gaudy in their attire"
The black rose and the black poppy are
used for flower boas with mourning cos
tunes. The silken flowers are very
pretty, considered as fabric. but consiG-
cred as flowers the hue is against them,
for no normal, being whose taste has moi
become Vitiated really admires a black
rose or poppy, even If it is only silk.
Black flowers are seldom seen on hats
any more, ana they are the only ones
which have any such distinction. one
starts out to match color in flowers
about as confidently as If IL were ribbon
that was wanted. 1t is a profitable botani-
n he
eTs are massed and note the different
species. And there Is very little danger Of
en2G g Ell Sa any nOnGssSPd5 plants for
prototypes in natures own realm, II We
but search long enough for the particular
class to which they belong. But the spe-
cies doesn't trouble the young woman wro
is out to find flowers to match the old
pink in her gown. Some lily-shaped flow
ers in dun red are very rich decoration
for black leghorn, and very little other
trimming is needed.
Hats grow more and more beautiful. The
straw is either very fine or very coarse
There is no medium ground. The very hne
is usually leghorn, and the milliner is al
lowed any latitude in pucker.ng and pinch
ing them until their broad Dr.ms become
marrow and the hats look almost small. A
white leghorn, with pink trimming, was
| laid in a pleat at the side of the face, and
| over this was a rosette of pink chiffon
| Underneath the brim, next the hair, was
a bunch OF fascinating pink roses and
pink ties of chiffon fell from the back of
the hat, This fashion OF wearing long,
| gauzy ties suspended from the back OF
| the hat and wrapped around the neck
! comes in every season, but there are 50
| few to whom this style is becoming that
| it seldom last long. 1t is only the tail,
! willowy girl without any bone in her back,
/ who looks well in such headgear. This is
] the type that the artist sometimes takes
| for his representation Of spring, with the
| long ties wrapped around the maid of
/ willowy stature and floating in the breeze
| as she balances herself on piece of ozone
I on Il ~ "a
! Ike hand.
But ordinary girls. with plenty of pot
ash in their bones, look best in some
thing with a Tilt and a dash about it
/ a big hat, with feathers set at a wicked
angle, and the whole tipped up at the
side at an angle that looks rakish but
1t is the same with gowns. The will
| lowy kind can wear dress that has
an appearance of being wrapped around
| the figure with any visible means OF
| support; but this style is rare, and II is
| safer to wear a trim costume, for when
one attempts to look willowy and doesn'
| succeed, one is in danger OF looking aWk-
| ward or untidy. That is one trouble with
| the blouses of this season. They are not
| sufficiently definite to look perfectly neat
| and trim. The blouse style is very trying
! to stout people. Many stout woman has
| very good lines in her figure which are
! completely concealed under the fullness of
a blouse, and al that remains is the OBJ
| jectionable size. One of the prettiest cos
! tunes l have seen for a woman inclined
| to embonpoint has a gray and black
| STRIPED silk skirt, that is stlffened in the
| regulation style. A corselet Of black vel
/ vet Is trimmed with large fancy buttons,
| and above this is a yoke of finer striped
! silk, which also forms the sleeves. A
! large hat of black null trimmed with black
! feathers was worn with this costume, and
! the whole was very stunning comeina-
| ton The general effect was black and
/ white and the colors were repeated IN
| the gloves. These gloves were very pecu-
liar and something entirely new. They
were white on the back and on the palm,
| but the spaces between the fingers were
| black, and the backs were stitched with
| black.
gloves had black backs and palms with
White stitching and white side pieces in
The new white gloves are all stitched
| heavily with black and have large White
pearl buttons. The very newest shade In
| gloves is pink-not bright rose pink OF
course, but what is known as old pink
| and reminds one of shrimp salad. These
| tints come in both dressed and undressed
| kid. and the mousquetaire is the most
| fashonablescut. Gray gloves will not be
| worn, and tan will not be so correct as II
! usually is Black gloves. stitched with
| white, are allowable, otherwise not
Shoes incline to the English cut, with
| French trimmings to relieve their plain
ness. This is rational since the English,
being a race of pedestrians, should be au-
thonty on the science of sensible foot
| wear.
Stockings do not come in solid colors
| Those that the merchants have had In
stock have been put on the bargain coun-
ter The new stockings have the foot in
! black and the leg In some brilliant hue OF
are black, embroidered in a lighter shade.
Many of the new stockings have open
work fronts, such as were worn six years
| ago.
Ribbons saved themselves from obliv-
ion by coming out in entirely new de-
/ signs, and have succeeded so well in
| their bid for popular favor that they
arc at the head of the list of trimmings
along with lace and flowers and jeweled
! passementeries. All the new ribbons are
wide, and this is point in their favor
for they will go much further as trim
ming A figaro effect with wide ribbon is
4 as important a part Of a dress as real
! jacket viii be seen by referring TO one
/ of the pictures here given. The material
1 of this gown is an old pink crepon. The
| bodice is made with a full front, with q
| figaro effect of green satin ribbon, which
also forms the collar. The skirt is trim
med with the same green satin ribbon
| set on zigzag fashion, with bows al the
upper points. The hat is a combination
| of green satin ribbon, flowers and aig-
] rettes. 1t would be very easy to make such
a bonnet this by pinning the various
parts on separately to the hair with hair
I pins. l have seen an evening bonnet
made that way. The girl of ideas had a
Jet frame in the shape of a coronet which
she pinned to her hair. She then took
/ some roses and fastened them TO hair
\