Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1893-1895, 1895-09-07

ward winter they will become more
marked and distinct. The new loose
waists have the bishop sleeves dropping
from the shoulder and having cuffs deep
or narrow as one may prefer.
Some Of the new separate waists cost S1b
and $50, and yet they appear extremely
simple. One was made OF fine white mo-
hair and embroidered by hand In Bulga-
rian stitch in dull blue and red washable
oolors Ono wide band was worked around
the middle of the sleeves. The cuffs were
covered with It, and so was the collar
Two narrow rows were worked down each
side Of the front. Across the upper part
OF tie bust were cords and silver buttons.
mention this in detail because this
Bulgarian embroidery is going to bo seen
on everything where it Is possible TO put
II, even on black wooden goods where the
surface Is smooth. To make Il one must
get some loose meshed canvas and basto II
to the goods or garment and work the
stitches through both. When 1t Is oil done,
the oanvns threads are to be pulled out,
and this leaves the pattern directly ON the
goods or the made up garment. This Is
work that cannot be done by machine,
and therefore It will never be common or
cheap.
There are now silks In some OF these now
pattern waists copied after old, old time
goods, mostly patterns Of printed delaines.
| The mingling OF colors Is very artistic, but
the patterns themselves are superlatlvely
ugly. There was one pattern waist plated
| from the shoulder and punched up at the
bottom In slight blouse effect. There
| were a drapod belt and stock collar OF tho
material with soft bow at tho back OF
| the neck. Down tho front and ON the
| shoulders wero straps Of black velvet rib
bon, held by silver frosted buttons. This
| is calculated for the young ladies, though
the samo form has been exactly followed In
dark prune and heliotropo peau do sole and
satin duchess for moro elderly persons.
II is certain that tho "waist' has an
| other winter before IL. 1 saw delicate
! shrimp pink and moss green striped tale
| In waist I'm blouse fashion, with six stripes
of moss green taffeta each edged with mar
row butter oolored lace. These wert
brought down the front. There was q
square collar of the moss green silk, edged
with lace. Frosted silver buttons fastened
the front. The belt was made like the
stripes. The sleages had cuffs OF the green
| with SQUARE pointed ohatelaine cuffs fall
ing over the hand. These, also, were edged
with plat val in butter color.
There was among these now gowns suit
of brilliant lilac rough crepon. The skirt
was plain. The waist and sleeves were o.
green surah, Just the color OF lilac leaves
over the shoulders was an immense peler
ine OF yellow point do Yenise. Down thu
front OF the waist there WAS a double jabo'
of lilac silk null, and there was FANCY
sash bow OF green. The sleeves were quit
large gigots. The importer told me tina
she expected 10 SEQ sleeves made quit
smooth on the upper part OF the arm befor
winter set In, but that tho large sleeve
were too cool and comfortable 60 give uI
while hot weather lasted. Sho also think
that there will be considerable OF tho deel
orinkle crepon worn tho coming season
though It will not. take rank as a higl
novelty. There are some new ideas II
these orepons now being wrought out an'
one will be those with loops OF wool throw
up on tho surface OF the upper orinkle
That will bring 1t In the limit OF the new
frise fashions, which will DO seen on al
most eyeryNhing In wool and mixtures.
There was a costume complete for gar
den party, which will describe, partly 10
its own beauty and partly because the gen
! eral style will be reproduced immediatel.
! Tor many handsome fall dresses. One
8 10 be made 10 order In ashes OF roses an
o mure, with black lace trimmings. This
OF a delicate salmon pink taffeta wit
cream shades, The skirt Is full all around
though cut with lne cores. The cores ar
not very sharp and that leaves ampi
width 20 make clusters OF nne marrow
plaits at the waist line all the way around
Between these clusters there are dourl