St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-13
IN WIDOWS WEEDS,
Even at Times Of Sorrow
FASHIONS DEGREES Are
Imperative.
GRAPE ADMITS NO SUPERIOR.
Velvet Must Always Know
the Hour Of its Ap-
peaPanee.
GRAPE ADMITS NO SUPERIOR.
sEALsKIN NOT SUITABLE.
The French Sometimes Wear
Mink Furs With Mourn
ing Gowns.

The Anglomaniacs exert no matter
what people say. Il great influence on
the minds of people in this country, and
in way more than in the matter of
mourning. says the New York Herald.
English customs are in many Instances
capital things to follow. but as soon
as slavsh rule is laid down there is no
end of bother and annoyance. and to try
and follow in this country what royalty
i'll England demands IS absurd to de-
gree.
The mourning required to be worn by
a widow is perhaps of paramount I'M
p0rtance to any other; at all events,
there are more details to be carried out,
and besides it is worn much longer than
for any blood relation. There are some
few cvnics who would have us believe
that. il is because of its becOmingness
that widows, particularly young ones,
cling as long as possible 20 the heavy
Grape veil and tiny Widows cap. But
mourning is not becoming to every one,
and has q most unpleasant tendency to
accentuate lines and wrinkles. and I'M
less the complexion be very fresh, to
deaden the skin in Q very trying man
ner. 1t certainly IS becoming to the
figure, and a black dress. be it neatly
sponged. carefully brushed and we'll
fitted, looks always much smarter than
any other colored goods of the same
pIice.
The length of the Grape veil is ac-
cordiug to the person for whom the
mourning is worn; thus for widow 1t
is made with a very deep hem and
reaching almost to the hem Of the skirt.
1t was formerly the custom 10 wear
crane veil over the face for months. but
traditions nave Waged 4 successful war
against the UaTUarOuS custom, ana now
it is no longer considered necessary IT
one does not feel SO inclined. The veil
can be thrown back and a transparent
face veil of chiffon or thin gauZr, with
creue border. can be worn overthe face.
The veil worn for father or mother Is
not quite so long. and has not SO deep
hem. For brother or sister 1t IS still
shorter For children the length is
what the mother most desires. and IS
generally very long one.
II Has Its Substitutes.
Grape. while a most beautiful material
Is very pershable, and dampnesS has a
most serious effect upon it. tits true
it can be done over and freshened, but
soon shows the effect OF cOntant redress
ing and looks stringY and rusty. Any
thing poorer in appearance than a rusty
crane veil it would be difficult to find.
Within the last three or four years
there has been a sensible fashiORln-
tIOduced OF wearing the long wells OF
silk or even OF nuns yelling i'll wet
weather. The nuns yelling wells are
OF course much less expensive. The
silk ones are made Of fabric woven eX-
presSly for the purpose, and cost nearly
as much as the Grape ones. Ihey are
far lighter in weight, and. while not so
becoming. look extremely we'll THESE
wells are always worn thrown back. with
the face veil trimmed with Grape,
which has already been described.
1t is by ne means an easy matter to
arrange a Grape veil properly on bon
net, and it is well, il one would have
something quite correct, TO have it ad-
juSted in the first place by some skillfui
milliner The bonnet frame should also
be of Grape. although only the edge or
it shows, and should be as fat as DOS
sible to the head. The folds Of the Grape
being all that is necessary to give it
sufficient height. Some Of the newest
bOnnets this winter have had stiff little
wings of Grape ut either side, or bows
and loops OF Grape stlffty wired, but the
material is not one that bears much
twisting of its effects and is much
more suited to smooth, soft folds. I'M
less for widows, the bOnnets are made
without any trace of white. They can
have little ruche of white inside to
give the look of 4 widows cap.
a Grape veil at one time meant retire
ment from society, but restrictions have
now been done away. and Grape wells
are often seen at weddings, theaters, or
any public shows where formerly they
weuld have been considered quite out