davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

possesses. For one cannot balance
Twelve pounds of unSeWed waiStcoats
upon the apex Of the body unless the
body is in absolute equilibrium, the
neck and shoulders, the waist, hips and
legs all in their correct positions.
1t is an art not to be acquired in a
day, this of balancing weights upon the
head. Consequently the tenement
house mothers begin early to train their
children in the way they will have to go.
The siX-year-old child is sent to the
building for such sticks as she can col
lect. She does not carry them back in
her arms. but piled upon her head 1t
may be a very light load-so light, in
fact, that one wonders why it is not
blown off but the little maid scorns to
bear it other than as her mother would
do. The sticks are laid upon her head,
her arms are held akimbo and her hands
are placed jauntily OH her hips. She
if an unsteady walk causes one of the
lightly poised sticks to fall. That is
her first lesson. After she has once ac-
ouired the principle her only advance
consists in the increased weight of the
load she carries, until finally she gradu-
ates with all the honors, and at sixteen
or so is able to lift as heavy a load as
her mother.
According to a doctor who has clinic
in an East side dispensary, the weight
Of the load increases from three or four
pounds in early childhood to about sixty
in vigorous youth and middle age. On
gala occasions, when kind-hearted
builders allow the carrying away of old
lumber in large quantities, the women
frequently stagger along under eighty
or ninety pounds Of firewood. Of course
the heavy Weights are not health>giv-
ing. The top of the head. though it
may be hard and tough, is not adapted
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

and without some fastening they are
I aptsto wrinkle, stretch or curl up a lt-
tie, Just as the sleeves of long-sleeved
/ fannelS have all embarrassing way CT
! doing. The ordinary tights range from
! this price TO SIS or SO pair for closely
I! woven. durable, well-made, well-dyed
/ WOODEN ones. Then come the woven
| silk ones, of all degrees of heaviness.
They cost from IS to SIS pair.
"A woman seldom thinks of ordering
these made for her," he continued. "any
| more than she has her stockings made
! to order. II, however, customer should
desire to have her tights made TO order,
we would simply take her measure
ments, send the order TO the manu-
facturer and give her the pleasure of
paying a somewhat extrayagant sum
for7lller faStidiOusnesS. How are the
measures taken? From waist to ankle,
from waist to knee, around the waist,
sabeut the hips, about the thigh, about
fthe5knee, about the calf and about the
ankle. L have read somewhere, by the
way, that fortune awaits the tailor
who could take WOman's measure
ment for tights or boomers accurately
and yet with propriety. The writer of
that article was not very long-headed.
Most tailors of repute have women as
sistants, part Of whose duty it is to at
tend to such details.
The measurements for bicycle and
riding trousers are not SO minute" he
went on. 1.-The waist and hip measure
ments are obtained. and the length of
the outer seam from waist to aukle, or
from waist TO knee, as the case may be.
The length Of the inner seam is OBJ
tanned by seating the customer. meas
uring the distance from the waist to the
chair along the hip line. and deducting
that distance from the length of the
outer seam. It's very simple matter.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

Once the measurements are obtained,
all that remains TO do is TO cut the
trousers from the same material OF
which the habit is to be made. For rid
ing habits the trousers are usually
ankle length, and for bicycle costumes
they are knee-length. Turkish trousers
are more in demand for bicycle riding
than the palmer, more masculine style.
The fulneSs of the Turkish trousers is
usually obtained by allowing the width
OF a scant skirt to be divided and gath
cred in TO the legs"
Those who supply theatrical tights
nave more difficulties to contend against
than the purveyors to the unprofes-
Sonas woman. The measurements of
the customer are taken accurately, but,
except in rare cases. those measure
ments do not accord with the standards
OF absolute beauty. 1t then becomes
the duty of the maker of tights to cal
culate what width of hip, waist and
ankle would make The customer, whose
length of limb is Interchangeable, statu-
figure correct. Very often pad
ding is introduced to make the
figure correct. Very often the buyer Of
theatrical tights does not have them
made to order at all, but buys from a
stock supply and proceeds to. tit herself
to her garments by the same padding
process.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
HOW TIGHTS ARE MADE,
Materials Used, and How NEiIady
Is Measured for Them

mot many women have tights made
to ORDER" said prominent ladies' tailor
the other morning. Those who do are
either the exquisites who have every
thing made to order from feeling that
what IS already in stock must be be-
meath their approval, and those who are
80 put together that the stock articles,
made for normal models, will not tit
them. | don't have two customers out
of ten who expect to wear their tailor
made gowns over anything more volu-
minous than pair of so-called eques-
trian tights and silk petticoat fitting
closely about the hips with deep yoke.
1.-THE tights women buy are of all sorts
and conditions" he continued. 81 am
told that they may be purchased in
black ribbed goods for Sl.98 pair.
These are not very warm and are per-
haps liable to crack. Still. they are not
to be despised. They come in two
lengths-to the knee and to the ankle
The ankle length is more desirable, for
the shoe aids in keeping them in place,
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
IN LOVELY yELvETS.
Many Rich, Close : Fitting
Waists ,Sow Being Made
in London.
ART OF DRESSING WELL.
Our american Women Are
Right Up to Date in
the Matter.
LATE STYLISH CLPES.
LATE STYLISH CLPES.
One Charming Cloak spe-
cially Adapted for Wear
in the Evening.
Special Corresponding of the Globe.

Special Correspondence of the Globe.
New YORK, Jan. 49, Fair readers
or reader. will you follow me in YOUR
Imagination into the vast and elegant
salons of the celebrate, English tall
oring establishment, where you shall
see some of the very latest and lovellest
silk and velvet waists, suitable for both
evening and day wear. To have a
tight-fitting waist composed Of the
same material as the skirt is become
pow quite secondary affair excepting
with tallormade walking gowns. Even
then 1t is the correct thing to have one or
two rich silk or velvet waists for indoor
wear with that same skirt. American
women understand the art of dressing.
there is no doubt about that. They
seldom make the sad mistake of wear
ing thing because it is the fashion,
never minding whether it is becoming
to their particular style of beauty or
not, and this is the reason that they
always look so very "chic." What
delightful villa is MIR. Redfern's
new house at Nice, pretty
mansion standing in its own stately
HlOul'NSs win bolI poliA NLNNo Oh
either side of the handsome iron gates.
Could anything be more artistic? 1t gives
one the idea that every garment that
is created in such a temple of art
must be perfection, and this is so. 1t is
the same in all the Redfern establish~
Nents. Every thing is carried out with
an artistic taste and skillful workman
j ship that it is wonderful to think of.
This famous firm of tailors seems 10
have the entire making of the outdoor
gowns for the ladies Of the royal family.
In one London paper they are spoken
of as the pet tailors of royalty.
Among the most remarkable things 10
be found at this always attractive
maison are just now some very stylish
capes of various descriptions, both fur
lined aud silk lined. Ore charming
cloak. specially adapted for evening
wear, is composed of very pale biscuit
color, lined with delicate blue fancy
silk and trimmed round the edges with
graY-shaded silky fur, and among the
most novel waists are two that l espe
cialIy admired.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
| STATIONERY.


Century Fountain Pen, warrant
cd AK. Gold, guaranteed salts
factory or money refunded, CSC.
Hurds Irish Linen Paper, &c
quire. Envelopes TO match, &c
bunch. Cranes Extra Superfine
kid-Finish Papers, in 6 tints. only
l2c Quire. Envelopes to match,
l2c bunch. Remember, we do
Engraving at low cut prices. All
our work guaranteed as equal to
any done i'll the Twin Cities. 100
Cards and Plate Engraved. St.OO.
80 Cards and Plate Engraved.
z5c. 100 Cards from Plate, if
Plate is furnished, 6oc, each lot
neatly tied with silk ribbon and
and put into a box,
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

In the second sketch is presented
more elaborate waist of heliotrope vel
vet, richly trimmed with ecru lace; the
yoke is entirely Of lace, while the vel
vet from thence is drawn down fully
with insertions Of narrow lace in lines
all around at slight intervals; from the
right under arm to the shoulder of the
left is drawn wide strip Of velvet end
ing in large bow, and is fastened in
the center with handsome buckle, the
waist band the same; the extremely
largely pulled sleeves are finished from
the elbow with the lace.
BARON DE BREMONT'
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
A January Thaw

Is predicted by some OF the local proph-
cts, others say a cold wave is coming.
but all agree that for steady service re-
CARELESS of weather the Wisconsin Cen>
trail line is the most reliable. A la carte
dining car service. Ticket Office, l64
East Third street.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
LADIES' GLOVES.

Special cut prices on Gloves. sizes
SO and SO. any style glove for the
next few days we offer 4 off of regu-
lar price.
4-button Glace Gloves. in greens,
blues and magentas, our regular $1.5O
Glove, we will close out tomorrow for,
per pair, S$c.
Silk Mittens, wool-lined, our 75c
quality. Special. 39c.
Kid Mittens, tleece-lined, s1.0O quail
ity for 59c.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

shape OF the head is notceably altered
if this load bearing begins early enough
in life. The top of the head is distinctly
tiatter than the normal type.
For the benefit OF those young women
who would like TO obtain the good re-
suits of such exercise, without its evil
ones. the doctor recommends walking
with about two pounds resting OH the
head. The weight should be in such a
shape that it will fall off unless tine
head is held correctly.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
BURDENS ON HEADS,

Some Statistics About the Weights
Borne by Italian Women.
The only women who have a truly
regal pose are the Italian women whom
financial stringency forces to carry
great loads of wood from buildings in
The course Of construction, or enormous
heaps of clothing from the sweaters. AS
The human arm is not long enough to
clasp the bundles they hare to carry,
they have learned to utilize their heads
for the work, and have thus acquired a
carriage which no other class of women
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

The first is novel and tasteful ar
ranCement Of lemon-hued silk. The
waist is made in the blouse fashion,
slightly drooplng over at the bust just
in trout. A yoke is formed of wide
cream insertion, a second line is placed
lower down, and the silk allowed to fall
over it as at the waist ribbons are
brought from the shoulders and caught
in with small buckles at either side
forming a sort of zouavc. They are then
recrossed and finish in a bow in the
front of the band. The very full sleeves
are pulled and tied at the elbow with
large bows Of ribbon. From there they
are trimmed with insertion to the wrist
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

Damask Table Sets. % dozen in plain white
and colored borders. size of Cloths $40,
one doz. Napkins to match; real
value s. 80 set. &1 20
Monday special. VA'o
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
SPECIAI. SALE OF PICTURES.

Your choice Of different
foot; regular dealers
Your choice OF different kinds twonch
nr GG OF Gierent kinds of onench EnameIed in white and gilt
C rfoot
our choice of different kinds
&c perfo 90
Your choice of different kinds
Oil Portraits
- " ~ ~ ~ ~
we also hand
Ifnts which will sell
fore buying elsewhere
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

Fancy Bordered Fringed Table Cloths, 20
doz., size S-4 and $40, worth Sl.50 Q2o
eAch Choice .... ... -. ~
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

Cream Damask-15 pieces various patterns,
very fine quality, full u inches eide.
cheap at 81 20 yard. ROP
Monday we say .....................
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
LINENS.

Table Damask-15 pieces pure Linen Satin
new designs, worth SOC per I'd, for OSC
Napkins to match above Damask, 01 20
5s size, worth $2.25 per doz.. for. VA'OS
Bleached Satin Damask, pure Irish Linen,
81 in. wide, extra quality, retails
i'll most houses at Sis yard. We Toe
say Special. .............,......
Napkins size 22x22. to match above Dam
ask worth s.. IS a dozen. 3O 10
Monday. ......... .......-
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20
Muslin and Sheeting.

A Lonsdale, best quality .............O 4o
A Fruit of the Loom.
IA Fine Cambria 1sl2c quality ~
/. 7 H., rrence l. l. Brown, special. 34c
IA Unbleached Sheeting, 14c quality. AOo
"a Unbleached Sheeting ice quality. AZ
Ga Unbleached Sheeting, 1Sc quality. 6oO
1O-4 Unbleached Sheeting, c0c quality. 4oO
(Bleached, cents higher.)
BEDSPREADS.
One case Crochet Spreads, good
size. Marseilles. patterns, regular ZOE
price SIS cents. Special. ..........,..
Two cases extra large size ard heavy
weight Spreads in new designs, quail
! ity That can't lie equaleu less than QQ0
81 gu, eaGn..
Marseilles Quilts, slightly soiled, largest
size, extra heavy genuine MarSeilles. only
fey that t reta naid at S5,UO each 81.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-01-20

He ATTRACTIVE TYPE RARELY SEEN.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
15Ost
AUCTION SALE.
GEORGE LUCAS,
Clerk

PUBLIC NOTICE Is HEREBY GIVEN
that the undersigned Kau Chong Sing has
distrained and levied upon the following
described goods and chattels. the property
Of Lum Chip Tai and You Choy, for rent
due by the said Lum Chip Tai and You
Choy TO the said Kau Chong Sing and in
arrear To the amount of Twenty-Five Dol
lars C$25) for rent of certain premises on
PauOa road corner of Nuuanu street. To
wit: 1 taro pan, l bellows, 1 table, set
harness, l lamp, l pair scales, l wagon,
D stools, . taro boards; and notice is further
given that said goods and chattels will be
sold at Public Auction, TO satisfy the rent
due and in arrear as aforesaid, on the
above described premiees, by Jas. +.
3Oth day of November 1895, at u O'Clock
noon. kAU CHONG SING.
414I-td
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16

preparation is required than in
days gone by, and it is not
unusual that man reaches
thirty before he has made his start
in life. Thus it is that under the
new ruling the professional man
must not only make enough to
keep body and soul together during
the days of his activity, but he
must also lay by enough to keep
himself after his professional death.
1t is practically condemning man
because he Is so unfortunate as to
have gray hairs and years of ex-
perience. When one considers
the life-work OF such men as
Gladstone, Bismarck, Leo Kill,
Bancroft, the historian, Oliver
Wendell Holmes, and any num-
Der of prominent men OF recent
years. he his inclined TO make
light OF this new departure.
1t was Rehoboam's departure from
the counsels OF the old men OF his
tribe that led to his downfall, and
time and again has his fate been
repeated among the young men OF
late history. The lives of promi-
nent men in science, politics, liter
allure, law and the Gospel have es-
tablished the fact that with Ordi-
nary health mans mind, when
active, will keep unimpaired as
long as the body lasts. Gladstone
is said to assert that as mans body
grows weaker his mind becomes
stronger.
Notwithstanding the swingingSof
the pendulum toward the young
men, it is highly probable that the
will continue to hold their
place in the front ranks. The agi-
tation is interesting, however, as
an exhibition of the spread OF so
cialistic tendencies among the edu-
Gated to the point of interfering
with the individual and his right
to work.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
MARSHAL'S SALE.

QY VIRTUE OF y WRIT OF EXECU-
ID ton issued out of the Circuit Court. on
the Sth day of October, AID, 1895. against
) X. kILA and MAAHA kILA defend
ants. in favor of w. c. ACHl. plaintiff, for
the sum OF $lO0.75; l have levied upon and
shall expose for sale at the station House.
in the District of Honolulu. Island of
Oahu. at ID O'Clock of SATU RDAN, the
18th day of November. AID 1895. to the
highest bidder, all the right, title and inter
est of the said S. X. Klla and NJ. Kila
defendants, in and to the following prop
erty, unless said judgment, interest, costs
and my expenses be previously paid.
List OF property for sale:
All those premises situated at huwll,
Houolu u, Oahu, containing an area OF 20
100 of an acre; and being part OF Apana
,, described in Royal Patent 1901 on Lea.
81 + L.. together with all buildings thereon {;
subject nevertheless to a mortgage made
by ). X. Kia and Maaha kila to Harriet
Carter for $l10O, dated April %, 1895, and
recorded in Liber 153 p. 1913; also subject TO
a second mortgage made by ;. h. kila and
Maaha Kila to Wong Wa Foy, dated April
-. 1895, and recorded in Liber 1888. 2. 100
for 1892 a. NJ. BROWN,
Marshal, Republic of Hawaii.
Honolulu. Oahu. October, 10, 1895.
4I2I-5r
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16

IFthe railway and dock franchises
granted to private individuals by
the State of New York during the
last sixty years had been operated
wisely, on behalf of the State it.
self, their value would, at present,
amount to nearly $2OO,OOO,OOO, and
the present income from them
would almost avoid the necessity
of enforcing any taxation. Why,
then, did not our intelligent"
people retain and work these valu-
able franchises? Simply because
an Intelligent" community is wise
on very narrow lines. It's opinions
are made up of thousand conflict
ing views, and its action is loose
jointed, until it gets excited, and
then it acts like a bull in a china
shop. A small body of deter
mined men, we'll organized, can
fleece the State out of valuable
franchises just as two or three
determined men hold up a railway
train, rob the expressman's safe and
make a hundred passengers hold
up their hands. The Pacific States,
in conjunction with the Federal
Government, could have built the
continental railway lines in 1865
and maintained ownership, but a
handful of men held up" both
State and Federal hands and
pocketed the business profits of the
entire coast.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
TO SHUT OUT OLD MEN.

Sharp competition in the liberal
professions in England is bringing
the cry 1.-The old men must go''
into prominence of late, and many
of the leading journals are advo-
eating the application of the age
limit, in vogue in the army, to the
professions as we'll. a medical
journal suggests that successful
physicians retire from practice at
the age of sixty-five, and a promi-
nent religious journal comes for
ward with the statement that the
pressure on the church might well
be relieved by the application of
the army and navy age limit, in
order to make room for the rising
generation. The colleges OF Oxford
are preparing statutes putting on
an end to life tenures and estab-
fishing age limits with compul-
sorry retirement for heads of
houses, professors and tutors.
Exeter College has led the
way and its new statutes have been
placed before Parliament. The
general theory on which the plan
is being carried out is to the effect
that mans period OF usefulness
ends at sixty-five, and he should at
that time be placed carefully, but
no less surely, on the shelf.
The theory appears very plausi-
BILE to the rising and ambitious
young men, but the assumption
that mind and body become unfit
for active work as man approaches
the three life limit
has not always been borne out by
past experience. 1t tends also to
concentrate a mans life work in
about twenty years of his life and
will not be found as acceptable
when the young men OF today be-
gin TO near the fatal dead line
marked in their profession. The
increased demands of modern sci
ence have put off the time at which
a man may be said to have started
in his work. More extensive
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16

United States Consul :. =.
Read. of Tien Tsin, China, reports
to his government that Rus
sci < Co. the last Of the great
representatives of American com
merciaI houses in China, closed in
1891 and since that time the
French. German and British firms
are taking all the business. The
fact above stated is a thing com
mentary on the foreign policy Of
the United States. After fifty
years of great commercial activity
and increase of manufacturing
Industries. the merchants Of
America haul down the flag in
China and surrender TO the
Europeans.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
BRUCE CARTWRIGHT
REAL ESTATE,
BROKERAGE,
INSURANCE

Especial facilities for handling Estates,
Trusts, Guardianship and Private Bust
ness. Moneys carefully invested, Loans
negotiated, Rents, Dividends and Interests
collected. Property sold or leased for a
small commission.
General Manager for the Hawaiian
Islands for the following Insurance Com
panies:
Equitable Life Assurance Society of the
United States, assets SIS, 044, $40 O6
Commercial Union Assurance Co., Ltd,
of London, assets SIG, 517,7S6 90
Imperial Insurance Company, Limited, Of
London, assets SO, 362 ,O2O 90
Lion Fire Insurance Company, Limited, 81
London, assets S4, las, 600 90
The Board of Underwriters Of New York.
The National Board Of MariAe Under
writers Of New York.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
to work.

The wife of Mr.. Leonard Wells, of
East Brimfield, Mass, bad been
offering from neuralgia for two days,
not being able to sleep or hardly keep
still, when Mr.. Holden, the merchant
there, sent her a bottle of Chamber
lain's Pain Balm, and asked that she
give it a thorough trial. On meeting
Mr.. Wells the next day he was told
that she was all right, the pain had
left her within two hours, and that
the bottle of Pain Balm was worth
$500 if it could not be had for less.
For sale at 80 cents per bottle by all
dealers. BESsON, SMITH 81 Co., agents
for II. /.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-11-16
In the Circuit Court First Circuit
of the Hawaiian Islands.

In the Matter of the Bankruptcy of
Tin Sang Wal Company.