The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

as a rule, made of tortoiSeshell, with a
diamond or ruby or a sapphire, or a
combination of the three stones, alter
nately decorating the points. The handles
are made to match Of tortoiseshell, with
jewels set in the top. AS these may be
considered extravagant, let me add that
crystal handles covered with a trelliswork
of gold are to be seen, and even Dresden
china ones are tolerated, as they possess a
charm of their own. Some of the new
parasols are made of Chine silk, unlined
and untrimmed; Others, again, show tiny
pleatings OF chiffon on the INSIDE. These
are, perhaps, the most becoming when
open. In truth, however, they are clumsy
when closed and heavy TO carry, making
them more fitted for carriage use than any
other. When having Chine or shot silk
gown made purchase sufficient for para
sol, as 1t IS the thing 10 nave them match.
Lovely frocks are being made of en-
broidered lawn or open-work batiste, with
the bodices cut in the pinafore fashion.
These all have lining OF shot silk when
the wearer can afford IT.
Do not have your new gowns made with
long sleeves. The elbow-sleeves are cor
rect with long gloves to meet them.
Evening gowns-the latest-are being
shown with sleeves which have diminished
in size, and many predict that after the
enormous ones we will Immediately adopt
the smallest possible. Many of the newest
cover scarcely the outside of the shoulder
point leaving the skin bare beneath. This
is an ugly style, and one To be avoided.
Every dress nowadays has its own cape
of the same material, when such wraps are
trimmed with great quantities OF lace. A
useful little cape IS one made OF blue and
brown siIot-Chine silk lined with shaded
silk. affording a pretty contrast, and en-
oh 10
gold This can be worn during the after
noon or evening, and harmoniZes with
many colorS.
Caricule crepon is new fabric which
promises TO have great success. A
gown of this is described as being
EN- broidered on the bodice with
moonlight beads and, what is quite new,
light silk sleeves worked all over with
broad black braid in a bold. open pattern.
Braiding promises to be much in demand.
One of the daintiest novelties is a certain
.ssilky crepine" 1t is crimped cotton
fabric with printed floral designs in colors,
and makes the prettiest of blouses, being
equal to silk in appearance. The crimped
stripes are in some cases lntersected with
narrow insertions of the material, but the
patterns are varied. For instance, we may
choose a ground powdered with tiny single
blossoms, with bouquets or with sprays of
a larger tiower-the palest green show
cred with brown and green violets, cream
ground with pink blossoms and a family
finged crepine sIrewn with mauve petals.
Blouses continue in such favor as TO
almost exclude all other bodices. An ideal
dinner one is composed of white crepe with
three bands of black velvet back and front,
covered with an applique of white elnbroid-
ery puffed, the sleeves full to the elbow,
black velvet band round the waist
The princess dress is, without doubt,
shortly to be in vogue. Nine. Bernhardt
and Mile. Bartet are now wearing, IN their
respective roles, some wonderful gowns
cutin this fashion. Mile. Bartet wore an
evening costume in L'Ami des Femmes
which IS worthy of description. 1t is en-
nrincess of a rich amber silk with the open
Embroidery like Madeira work, so that the
white satin beneath shows. The sleeves
are of amber chiffon. Abououet of poppies
Of the'same tone is introduced at the side
Of the low square bodice. This gown met
With approval in Paris and in London.
Theater-goers accustomed to Ellen Terry's
charming toilettes are enthusiastic over
Rernhardts gowns, which are marvels of
artistic beauty and offer additional ex-
amples of the great actress conviction
that the finest productions of the needle
and the loom are not too good for the
Colored pongee silks have been largely
used this summer for dresses for young