The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-09-08

y @saAH 1872 ~
the new garments begin to be worn, and
ostrich feathers will be the favorites. They
have been used with good results on
black velvet cape richly worked with up
right lines OF cord embroidery intermixed
with beads and sequins, pretty moIifs,
conventional floral being introduced be-
tween the stripes. 1t was lined with
satin, and bordered everywhere with black
ostrlch-feather bands.
In some of the most costly capes. cord
and Jet embroidery are to form panels
carried up the fronts and the center of the
back and united by scallops at the edge
above the border.
One authority states: "The new ma
terals Tor autumn wear are chiefly in
mohair - mohairs coteles and mohairs
ooueles, with an introduction of stripes of
astrachan, sometimes in black, sometimes
In color. The effect of the colored astra-
chan is original and pleasing" The
grounding of the mohairs is dark, but the
surface is of three or four different shades,
mostly gold, blue, and brown, mauve,
green, black, etc., and the astrachan lines
Will be OF various tones. Velvet sleeves
will be worn with these costumes. 1t is
predicted that repped materials will again
be fashionable.
Faile, white silk or poult de sole and
mohalr are equally in favor for wear at
Newport and Bar Harbor, the mohairs of
finest quality being made up as elaborate
ly as the richest silks. White lace trims
the waists of such gowns very effectively
and forms full gathered fronts extending
only to the belt. The favorite style for the
waists is the godet basque, giving the effect
OF double godets in very pronounced
curves. The sleeves are elbow puffs of the
silk gracefully draped by choux of satin.
Loose lower sleeves that are easily movable
are of the fabric smoothly covered with
lace. With these short white kid gloves
closely buttoned are seen, while if pre-
ferred elbow sleeves and long gloves can
be worn as change.
With such toilets as / have described
exquisite collets of lace and chiffon are
frequently seen, adding greatly to their
chic. One consisted of a mammoth ruche
around the neck studded with roses, and
falls on an accordion-pleating of chame-
leon gauze of very rich hues, blending rose,
green and pink. A large bow of taffeta at
the back completed it.
Perhaps every season the same number
of beautiful silks and gauzes are placed on
the market, but it does seem as though
never before have we seen quite such va
riety. The Persian silks shown In waist
lengths of six yards only at one of our
large stores are very attractive, but l did
not allow my admiration to lead me into
purchasing one on ascertaining that each
pattern was SIS. Still | confess, after in
vestigating them, it is difficult to feel any
special enthusiasm over simpler weaveS,
at least for a few days. as they show truly
beautiful blending of colors, and the quality
of this silk is very excellent, as indeed it
should be for the price mentioned; but 1t
seems positively small when one realizes
that dealers could not supply the New
York market last winter with the brocades
have frequently described at $25 per yard.
For evening dresses creped effects will
be in vogue this winter and Persian color
ings are in great demand. A sample piece
of such crepe brought out here, just sutf
Gent for gown, was promptly purchased
by one of our young matrons and it is so
lovely that it merits a description. 1t
shows unique design quite indescribable
in an odd purpllsh-pink shade, intermin-
gled with tones of green and yellowish
white on a dead white gown. This is to
be made over a deliciously pretty pale
shade of mauye taffeta. Rare lace will
trim the bodice and orchids matching the
and at the waist line. The skirt will be
quite plain in the exterior, but many frills
of lavender and green silks will adorn the
inside.
understand that one more gown of this
special weave of silk is to be had here, but
in place of the purple-pink tone is clear
shade of blue. | hope the purchaser of
this other pattern will have the good taste
to have it made over white silk, as if made
OF blue the whole effect might be spoiled.
L can imagine no more charming gown for
fair-haired blue-eyed belle.
Chameleon colorings are much the rage,
and in thin fabrics are most attractive.
Mauve with blue is one OF the new COM
binations, halling direct from Paris. Many
are striped with satin, some quite widely.
others in very fine lines. The newest
gauzes have the effect of being tucked.
Creped stripes, very wide. are on smooth
gauzes. and are covered with large dots
as though embroidered. Flowered and
figured gauzes have the grounds strewn
with polka dots.
Mousseline de sole looks like another
material when covered with the new and
rem arkable designs of open embroidery in
every conceivable color. In crepe de chine
open effects are in the market, but the
newest of all snow figures raised In en-
broidery, but not cut out. White mousse
line de sole is almost covered with en-
broidered colored flowers.
Painted chiffons are so beautiful that
the plain ones have been completely
banished.
Yellow or butter color remains, after
constant use during the spring and sum-
mer, prime favorite.
Glaze mirror velvet and all the shot
velvet, which were so well received last
winter, will be again seen in the new colors.
Rich ribbons of peau de sole will be
among the new importations for winter
hats. but until it reaches our market
taffeta ribbons will do as substitutes.
| am sorry to say that one of nv abomi-
nations, peacock blue, is again in favor.
Peau de sole is chameleon tints will be
much used Tor calling and dinner gowns;
the quality with plain surface is pre-
ferred.
Raspberry red is one of the new shades,
as is also scabreuse. refined reddish pur-