davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

skeleton blouses to be laid over colored
stuffS, etc.
Today France is the principal manu-
facturer of these garnitureS and pos
sesses the authority TO bring them into
fashion. 1t is a very pretty affair in
the matter of business, and the advant-
age is to be explained wholly in the do
main of state. France is able to create
demand that only herself can supply
because she has pursued the policy Of
making her artisans artists. All the
world chooses TO buy what is most
beautiful, and the details and ensemble
of feminine dress are no exception to
the rule.
Some New TOiIettes.
A plaid street dress, in which red and
brown predominant. The skirt is open
each side the front to disclose a plait-
ing of brown velvet, and a large
enameled wood button is at the head of
each opening. The sleeve is very close
on the lower part, with the material
shirred in the seam, and is open with
three buttons like those on the skirt
but small. that fasten with cords. The
fulness of the upper part falls below
the elbow. The blouse has brown vel
vet bretelles laid in folds, wide on the
shoulders so as to fall cut upon the
sleeve and passing under the velvet
belt. The bretelles are garnished with
buttons like those on the skirt, a row
of three across each, to form the line
of yoke. With this gown, a toque
of black braided felt; with a rosette of
green ivy leaves and berries on each
side the front a larger rosette Of red
faille ribbon on each side of the back,
and wall of black cOque blades rising
high between front and back.
a blue serge made for Biarritz The
skirt is trimmed with clusters of stitch
ing The bodice is a fitted Jacket with
little basque in godets, the fronts
rounded at bottom, and open over
skirt of blue and green plaid. A large
square collar covers the shoulders and
falls in plaits on the front. where it
falls into the jacket edge as revers.
All the edges are stitched. Wide belt
of white Jersey elastic with yellow
leather faStenings; White linen turn
down collar, with assorted necktie;
black tarpaulin sailor hat with yellow
leather band and coque blade at one
side; white point applique veil.
Visiting dress of brown wool with
mofre pattern 1t is richly trimmed
with passementerie Of brown cord,
having all the pattern outlined with
brown fur. The skirt has medallions
of the passementerie appiiqued at in
tervals along the edge. The bodice is
fitted behind, with double box plat
down the middle, and the front opens
in form of a figaro jacket, over a
bouffant front of yellow silk that has
its plaits ruffied with brown satin rib
bon The revers and sleeve tops have
applications of the passementerie.
Cape of the same moire wool with a
yoke of the passementerie and luxuri-
Gus collar of sable that rolls high round
the face.
Dinner blouse of white lace over rose.
sleeves of same reaching the elbow
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

sometimes vary, are given by an Eu-
ropean authority as follows, as being
in most general use, and are known as
the Spanish method:
The closed fan means. Held in a
perpendicular position, like an excla-
maItien point, resting against the
mouth and chin, I'VE are noticed: take
care" g Held against the heart, it
says: BE sure of my love" 3. Held
in a horizontal position, with both
arms hanging. 1T conveys the sorrow
full message. "ar is over between us.
q. But if the head leans on The fan,
1T signifies the humble entreaty, 'be
kind again"
The half open fan says: 81 don't I'M
dergtand you; explain yourself more
plainly If the fan is opened to its
full width and covers half the face.
it means: I want TO speak to you"
If a lady fans herself in the usual
way, 1T means: Come, the coast is
clear" If The opened fan is held fiat,
like a walter. it signifies: There is
nothing more in our way. all the ob-
stacles are removed" But if it is
allowed to fall regligently downward.
it is nneanlt to express: II never cared
for you, and I never shall care"
MARY J. Stafford.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

ing at the top toward the left hand; the
other n an oval opening beioW and at
the right. The frame is hand painted
~ sprays Of vines and blossoms.
One that. hOlGs q single photograph IS
a i.ovei LOUIS XIV aes.gn n desiclte than
colored leather, decorated IN gold and
dainty festO0ns OF flowers and foliage.
A tn-rd is OF brown. also hand painted
and S square in shape.
A beauty II BIT Int leather is shield
shaped and IS intended for three small
Ter photograph carte-1evis-te s.ze.
1t S FIRST punt in a mast art ste pat
tern in holly leaves and berries; then
ta:s pattern IS painted over N dull greens
and reds, the natural t.nts Of the plant.
The Or ce CT this frame IS $459.
Another much favored style g that
done in morocco of any coior-scarlet,
mounted IN ,tlvey. The frame is a fold
ing piece of cream morocco, to hald two
cabinet pictures. with a narrow, fanc.-
fuliy-chased band Of silver entirely en-,
cjrclng It, Another IS of dark green, and
perfectly plan, lacking IN trimming of
s Silver: both sterling and plated. s
handsome frame of this metal gilded IS
valued at $43g and is square in effect,
! though the center part is round IN the
opening about which is dull, smooth
setting of the gold from which branch
nff rays of open work of the same metal,
caught WITH fl!Sree inter-work
Plated frames in silver m attractive
! enough to hold a cabinet likeness can be
| bought for % cents.
Another cheap fashion is the in.ta-
ton of the Florent:ne frame, This is in
/ heavy, brassy-looking metal and has
| large scroll-Work designs. A good-s.zed
I one comes at 40 cents.
a chaste style for framing a small pho
| tograph is the flower band. a delicate
| Inc of v:olets. English daisies, forget
me-nots, or other diminut.ve blossoms.
This IS square, oval or perfectly round
and is sometimes tied top or bottom with
knot Of ribbons in enamel to match or
contrast with the flower used.
Tiny frames come in sterling silver
fligree or open designs, and cost SO cents
They are used for the setting of pic
ture no larger than the end Of ones
thumb.
A style that would take the fancy of
a person of refined tastes is that similar
to the one adopted for framing NINA
lures These frames are made large
enough for a cabinet picture and have a
rest attached at the back for standing.
They are of gilt and are generally oval
| in form, sometimes ornamented, some
| times a plain band of gold finished with
| a narrow line of beading or hutter.ng
! ribbon, bow and ends tied at the top.
CAROLYN HALSTED.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
FRENCH FASHIONS.
YOUTHFUL EFFECT PRODUCED BY
FLARING SKIRTS.
Big sleeves Conceal Defects, and
Neck Swathings Make Every
Face 1oung-EVery Garment
EIaborateIy Decorated.

PARIS, Oct 1T is said that the
faring skirt persists because it gives
a look of youth to the figure. Clearly 1t
is charming, charming as another VIII
be when it comes; though I had rather
find che main explanation Of its youth
fuluess in its profile, IN the outlines
that converge upwards SO rapidly as 10
make the eye believe that the waist is
small. These lines, 50 positive, cause
the eye to lose all notion of the figure
beneath, and whether the figure is old
or young does not appear. This seems
to be the secret; also this aim TO pro-
duce a small waist has been that of all
other dress that has gone before. where
the end has been reached by other
means.
Accentuating "a Small Waist.
Wien fashion is for a skirt full at
the top then the bodice is depended
upon to give the small waist. Then
the bodice is tight and smooth and
sharply pointed. and cuts far down into
the skirt, so as to make the waist look
some half as long again as it is by
nature Dress was thus cut in Marie
Anoinette's time and has been so cut
In our own not very long ago But
when the bodice is round then the
skirt with the outlines it has today
takes the responsibility for the waist
and when the bodice is not only round
but a fun blouse. there is an enhanced
charge put upon the skirt, which makes
Il flare still more at the edges. And
this alienation between bodice and
skirt has been going on ever since
Eleanor of CASTLE, dressed in round
bodice. huge sleeves and a flaring
skirt. with very much the same out
line as the dress of today, came to
France to be the wife of Francis l.,
which is to say ever since French
dress became an art.
With this principle in nina one may
venture to predict that the godet skirt,
or one similar in profile, will be worn
until the time comes for change IN
the bodice. As yet there has appeared
no very credible sign of turn in the
wheel.
Doubtful Changes.
The movement for drapings was
started last year by one or two great
dressmakers whose fortunes were
made by draped gowns at the time of
the empire. and that naturally there
fore regard them with reminiscent ia
vor. But dress is not ruled tyday by
a dressmaker's souvenirs.
There is talk also of princess gowns.
and certain ones are. in fact. being
worn over these. too, the dressmak
ers are sanguine. A new style is SO
ardently desired. For myself 1 believe
less in them as an established revival
than in the overskirts, and for the
practical reason, among others, that
it is so extremely difficult to cut bod
ice and skirt together so as to give
small-waist effect and a look of ele-
gance that it can be accomplished only
by dressmakers of the greatest skill.
Such dressmakers are not within the
reach of a great many women. The
princess form, therefore, can hardly
become popular. Moreover. the class
0f rich women do not lead the mode.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
TIE LIBERTY DELL.

10! a its coming how all men rejoice
\ ringing chorus swellsi
For once it spoke with Liberty's own
voice
This bell of bellsi
Its tongue made heroes in the days Of
old;
And still as dear as then.
Its deathless story, to the ages told.
Makes patriots of menI
And, in its presence. swift from strand
to strand
Resound the busle notes;
Ger its triumphal journeyings through
the land
The flag of glory floats.
And the wild rivers. dashing to the deep,
Still echo loud and long,
And all their silver waves in glory leap
10 one immortal song.
One soaring song of liberty and life
That was and is TO be
Till tyrant flags are trampled in the
strife
And all the world is free!
All hail our country! In high grace she
stands
Nor fear the war drums beat;
The sword of freedom in her holy hands
The tyrants at her feet
F. L. Stanton in Atlanta Constitution.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
4 FIREsIDE REvERIE.

The fire is low on the hearth tonight
And the suns last crimson ray
Fades soft and low in the aftergIOw
In the hush of the twilight gray.
My soul looks out beyond tonight
Thro' the dreary sweep of years
To the long last days beyond Times haas
And my eyes shed binding tears.
My eyes are closed, but I can see
The glow of summers day,
And a shady lane by the waving grain
Where the daisies nod and sway.
From ferny dell comes the faint, sweet
smell
OF wild flowers blossoming time,
And can look down where a brook
Laughs on with its babbling rhyme.
And there comes to me in my dream to-
A face that is sweet and fair;
And a soul so white-'twas ever like
Gods own reflected there.
And | can look in sOmbre room,
Where she lay in d shrine of white,
And s0rrOWing press a last careSS
On her lips again tonight.
The fire has died; my dream is past;
Again l turn my eyes
To the busy town where factOry's frown
Makes duh and dim the skies.
Beyond | see sad leaves of time
The long years VIII unfold.
And my heart in pain hopes but in vain.
And tonight-the world is old.
Don Whitney.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

the last loop falling out over the sleeve.
A rosette of the ribbon is placed in tine
sleeve draping on a, line with the bodice
trimming, and neck garniture of the
ribbon forms a fanciful bow at the
back.
Rich cape for visiting dress. On a
foundation of myrtle green satin is laid
a cape of black lace not as long by
some inches. The edge of the green is
bordered with fur and the fur has the
upper edge cut out in scallops to fit the
edge of the lace, and all is appliqued
down upon the gr3sn. High fur collar
with short ends.
Theatre toque IN form of a Spanish
turban, very fiat with a considerable
flare 1t is of gray blue velvet trimmed
with rose roses and transparent irrl-
descent wings, arranged together as
rosettes. A black pompon rises high at
one side ADA CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
GENTLE HINTS
That VIII Prove of Grent Value to
q Thrifty Mind.

a. 4hr1zty Nl1DOs
For the careful housewife who is al
ways on the lookout for hints regarding
the proper. care of her possessions, the
pointers" which l have picked up
here and there may be somewhat help
full
For instance a notable housewife, who
always keeps everything in the tradi-
tional 'spic and span" order tells one
that the best way to restore ivory to
It's former wilderness. when not stained,
is to rub it with powdered burnt Pc
mice stone and water and then place 1t
under a glass in the suns rays.
To polish ivory, first smooth the sur
face with the finest sandpaper, then ap-
ply whiting on a bit of famed, rub
bling it we'll The whiting may be wet
with oil or water. Finish by rubbing
the ivory with a slightly oiled bit OF
linen cloth. Ormolu may be cleaned
with ammonia or spirits of wine
Leather chair seats may be bright
ened and revived by rubbing them with
the white of egg. Leather book
bindings can also be improved by the
which I brought about by the applica~
ton of ink and white of egg to black
leather shopping bag tempts one to
mention the fact for possibly some
new woman" is balancing the pros
and cons of discarding a favorite bag
which has seen it's best days.
Don't throw it away, instead, mix
some ink with white of egg on a saucer
and give the bag one or two coats of it
just as you polish your boots with
liquid dressing and if your experience
is similar to mine, you will never re-
gret the operation nor will You be
obliged to buy new bag for long
time,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
Incident in Future Campaign.

Incident i'm Future Campaign.
ITO what am l indebted for the honor
of this call?"
1t was Mrs. Mary Ellen Ricketts, who
spoke. She held in her hand the card of
Mrs. Samantha Jenkinson, which had
Just been laid on her desk by the office
girl, for the card was followed almost
instantly by the entrance of the person
whose name it bore.
There was really no necessity for the
use Of the card, for the two had fire.
quently met.
Mrs. Ricketts, was the candidate for
Congress on the Republican ticket. while
Mrs. Jenkinson was the Democratic
nominee. Under the circumstances is
receiving a call from her opponent
Il came to see you on a small matter
of business" replied the visitor
Pray proceed
that your managers are bent upon a
campaign of personalities, and that they
intend to give to the press certain SLAM
derous gossip about me, intended ID in
iure my candidacy"
The speaker paused and Mrs Ricketts,
said. interrogatively:
"Well?"
well echoed Mrs. Jenkinson. 1--WE
must keep personalities out of the cam
paign.'
We must, must we?"
1--WE must"
Mrs Ricketts, sneered.
Mrs. Jenkinson waXed wroth
Look here. Mary Ellen Ricketts, she
exclaimed, don't you dare to turn up
your snub 1I0se at me, now"
Samantha Jenkinson,' retorted Mrs
Ricketts,, my nose is not a snub. and
don't you dare to presume to dictate
what my managers shall or shall not
do in this campaign"
Wen see about that. Mary Ellen
Ricketts,, you We're engaged to my hus-
band in your young days, a good many
years ago."
I'm not nearly as old as you, I'd
have you know"
You arer'
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

but she should always do it at home, not
in public. 1t makes a man feel very
smart for his wife to come out in print
ana criticise his actions. There are wives
who have no tact, no taste, no sense
More men are unmaHe by their wives
than you imagine. Old Joe Brown. the
war governor of Georgia, was absolutely
controlled and directed in public affairs
by his wife, but she did it behind the
curtain, as 1t were. [ remember very
we'll the day he was holding MS first
public reception. Mrs. Brown-good wo-
man-came into the parlor with her
youngest baby at her breast, and sat
through the ceremonies while the young
ster nursed. aer eye never left Joe. who
behaved with great discretion under it's
directing Gaze.-New York Press.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
Ono of the Pioneers.

Belva Lockwood has dropped into poet
~, and after careful study of such of
her efforts as have been given to the pub
It was considerable of a drop. At least
that is charitable view to take of the
subject We should dislike to say that
the following, which she pinned on the
door of room in a building owned by
her. was fully up to her standard:
4 pritty moril men
Formily ocopied this den;
Beet their LandIady
Out of hur rent
Then got up. skipt, and went.
Reel estate.
Chicago Post
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
I'm not you insulting thing!'

I'm not you insulting thingT
you are!'
I'm noti''
I'VE will pass that point, but 1 want
TO say that when married my husband,
all your love letters were still in his
possession, and l have them now.
You spiteful thingp'
Many a good laugh I've had over
them. What a perfect goose you were!
II just hate you so thereP
And 1 merely wish to- add that. on
the very first publication of a person.
atty about me In your newspaper or
gans, / shall print in the Daily BuSie
every single one of your muSh. lacka-
daisical epistIes Do you understand"
The two women glared at each other
half minute. and then Mrs. Samantha
Jenkinson withdrew, leaving Mrs. Mary
Ellen Ricketts, deep in thought.
The campaign was conducted without
any ersonalities--Harper' Bazaar.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
LANGUAGE OF THE FAN.

Fans VIII be universally carried this
coming winter by women when in fun
dress. They will be unusually small
and peculiarly rich in coloring, there
by adding a charming touch of color
10 light tOilettes In view of the fans
return to favor frequent inquiry is
made concerning the different move
ments by which the fan may commu-
nfcate what its owners lips cannot
utter. These signals, though they
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
ruE COMING PRIZE FIGHT.

At the call of time the men shook
hands.
Suddenly Liverwurst Ike led with
four pages of typewritten manuscript,
but Hot Wiener Bill sharply countered
with a special session of the legisla-
ture.
Liverwurst Ike didn't say a word for
ten days, and the fight was according
ly given to his tagonist.-Detroit
Tribune.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

That fascinating old pastime, fitting
at ring" suggestive of tournaments
gay and cavaliers brave of the middle
ages, has been monopolized quite long
enough by men.
We have changed al this now, and at
the riding schools and clubs, women as
vel las men will tilt at rings and be-
come initiated into the deep mysteries
Of tent pegging and other athletic eques-
trtan games this winter.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
The Butt of Satirists and the
Game of the Wits
IS NOT MUCH LIKED.
But NOBODY TAKES HER VERY
SERIOUSLY.
Though She's Discussed By Every
Tongue,
A Novel Theme, rs we Believe,
Yet the New Woman Isn't Young
She's just About as Old rs Eve!
-MadaIine s. Bridges.

The tendency of the new woman craze
is toward the degradation. OF woman
hood. Woman has a God-given sphere.
To cross its bounds is to deteriorate. A
mannish woman is more disgusting
than an effeminate man.-Rev. j. w.
Malrood, Methodist, Sioux City. Iowa,
today.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
FRAMING PHOTOGRAPHS.
Some Charming Novelties For Hold
ing Camera Portraits.

This seasons latest designs in small
frames are extremely pretty and so var
led in SIZE and kind that all tastes and
requirements can be met. Leather is the
rage and II makes most effective set
ting for the lace of dainty young
maiden or a debonair youth, while it
lends grace to the more mature or less
favored individual.
large sized frame in smooth, dark
green leather is designed to hold two
cabinet pictures, one in square set
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

Asthma. hay fever and kindred all
ments positively cured by a newly dis
covered treatment Pamphlet, testimo-
malls and references sent free. Address
Worlds Dispensary Medical Associa-
ton. 66S Main street. Buffalo. n. Y.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
TENT PEGGING.
THE SNOWY HoRsEMANsHIPs OF
CLEVER WOMAN RIDERS.
one Side

fitting at Ring, spearing Paper
With n Lance and Driving Pegs
WiIi Vary the EXERCISES in Acad-
emies and Clubs This Winter.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
Her Apprehension.

Good sir. do you propose to. me-
With care the question note
Because my husband you would be,
Or do you want my vote?
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27

mean questrianship-au very good
equestrianship-all very good things, in
their way, for every rider to acquire.
entertainment at musical rides which
take place once a week at the various
riding schools.
For fitting at the ring, pole, much
which our old friend Punch is wont to
hang the beadle in his edifying street
drama, is placed in the arena; from it
depends an india rubber ring on a hook.
Ring and Lance.
The riders. each provided with a light
wooden lance, from which a gay pennon.
hutters, are drawn UP in line. One by
one, they gallop swiftly past the pole;
scoring depends on the pace at which
the ring is taken.
The practiced hand rarely misses the
ring; il is then flung off the lance to the
ground, to be picked up and replaced by
the attendant srooms. Each rider has
each time.
Another similar sport is to try to pick
up with the lance pieces of white paper
placed on the ground as the rider flies
Skill. the women, at a recent perform
ance, displayed greater prOWeSS than
the men, many frequently picking up
three out of four bits of paper.
More Difficult and Dangerous.
Tent pegging, another equestrian pas
time. is rather a more difficult game and
yet wcmen riders do not md it beyond
their skill
An indiarubber ring is fastened to q
peg which is driven into the ground. The
rider must detach it as she passes
quickly by and toss it off the lance as
high as she can fling it. This perform
ance demands good eye and strong
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
The WifeIy Boss.

Mrs. Culberson. wife and manager of
the governor of Texas made a mistake
when she put in her mouth about the
alleged prize fight. 1t is all right for
the wife of a public man TO boss him,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-10-27
RrigIlt Decorations.

But passemeuterie is the most iinuort-
ant novel factor in the demi-season dress.
Read for passementerie all sorts OF
open work garnitures of cord whether
silk. wool, gold or silver, mingled with
appliques Of velvet or cloth cut in fine
patterns. and enrichments of jet. Jew
els and fur; also stamped galoons, en-
brcideries. lace. ribbons and buttons. In
The absence of any positive new forms
these give variety to the dress. They are
used more or less on the skirt. somewhat
the blouse They also make part of the
substance of rich evening cloaks. Special
forms are devised for the blouse. yOkes
with pendant bands running to the belt
heart-shaped decollete pieces, entire