Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1895-09-19
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
New Silks Fall aud Winter Dress Goods
autumn Miiiinery-rrimmings- coIors--
Ribbons = Piainness Possible = Latest

autumn Mtiitnery-lriuntngs-
Ribbons : Piainness Possible : --latest
Fashion Notes.
81 ecial Correspondent OF Every Evening
New York, Sept. IL New silks are
extremely rich by reason of colorings
massed together with Oriental effect
or where patterns have some regularity,
a confused appearance is impaired by
dots or minute streaks that are scat
tered at random and rise above the
groundwork as well. This latter feature
is an important one at the present, since
everywhere, inequality in surface is a
leading characteristic. Many are the
devices resorted to for such purpose
intricate weayings are noticeable. and
splendid silken fabrics display raised
velvet flowers. In keeping with the
time, however, they are small and
black is preferred, because showing
boston bright groundwork.
New dress goods seen also at Lord &
Taylor's, are opponents to a much
greater extent OF rough groundworks
and mixed colors. Scarce anything
appears distinctly; bourette dottings
or houcle finishings are largely en-
ployed to bring about confusion of pat
tern and inequality of surface as we'll
fancy weaves contribute largely to a
similar end and both in union at times,
form unique combinations As BELTS
the season, prevailing hues are sombre,
but some OF the new plaids are really
gorgeous and richer too perhaps, be-
cause yelled as it were, thus giving the
idea of magnificence hat does not
wholly exhibit itself and thus the
element Of mystery adds its quota. In
millinery. extravaganza has reached an
| unheard Of limit and in breadth, mass
| ing OF garniture and reckless combina-
| tions of color, all former styles are far
surpassed. Broad brimmed hats are ex-
tremely broad and set thereupon are
birds heads that form centres from
which wings of greater or less number,
branch forth in antler like style. Up
right quill feathers are used however
and unique garnitures composed of
quill feathers in groups and in general,
both high and wide trimmings appear,
but it is the latter which are in such
exaggeration. Flowers are much more
employed than is usual and there are
many single roses again placed fiat on
bTims.
Colors are combined in the most
reckless manner and in many ribbons,
hues are massed together in Persian
as wide as sash ribbons, the result is
one of extreme richness. The most ex-
pensive are very thick and upon a satin
foundation, palm leaf patterns are bro
caded with prominent mixture of gilt.
Chene ribbons are seen again and the
changeable are also quite factor in
color producing, not a few being set in
accordion plaits that brought around
in circle with flower centre in the
middle, simulate mammoth blossoms
well in keeping with the broad ideas
of the day.
Dutch bonnets reappear in increased
breadth and there are beautiful little
bonnets made entirely of feathers in
glowing colors. X OF course they are
expensive, but small amount of trim
ming appears, since the bonnet itself
is made for exhibition. Bright green
is very prominent and there is a
gorgeous yellow that might come under
the head of yellowish red, so subtle il
! the combination of the two brilliant
hues. One may imagine the result
when this color is placed with green,
, but at present anything is possible.
Fur is quite fashionable in milliner,
| and specially liked by wealthy women,
who are thus secure from imitation OF
the part Of ordinary buyers Black il
very important element. Hats en-
tirely black, except for one striking
colored ornament, such as bright quill
! feathers in groups a ribbon chou
perhaps two or three in row, or
large, glowing Autumn flower, ar,
| particularly stylish and green velve
brims are preferably lined by blacl
that also appears in crowns finished b,
| nrInpa1 hrfV Rlaplr rthIA., f,; 81
plumes likewise afford contrast which
is needful to bring out properly, tn,
various gay hues.
Styles in dressmaking now tenC
towads the new Marie Antoinette idea
and sleeves are more or less affected
although some gowns recently sen
over, have sleeves Of considerabl,
breadth. But the tendency is towards
moderation, and while last winter
: dresses may pass muster, the new one
: of to-day will he made of less dimen
! sion. Some extremist indeed will wea
! sleeves fiat at the top. extending but "A
the elbow and with a rufflef at thu
wrist. But this is ungraceful and no
: 80 desirable as successive pulfs to tn
elbow. For skirts, it is prophesieC
( that contrasting front breadths panel
7 or tabliers will he much used and o
course such changes will be useful il
making over. But the admirable sim
plicity of present styles, will caus
F.; them to retain strong hold and il
general it must not be forgotten tina
e while extravaganza in colors and rougl
| fabrics is prevalent, yet there ar
: always narrower range of modest ma
terials and millinery trimmings tina
are stylish and preferred by many per
: sons.
, RosALIND MAY.