New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-12-29
THE ININJTABLE 81 USAGE.
1T HAS BEEN LOVED FROM THE DAYS of
ARIsTOPHANES TO THESE.


ARIsTOPIANEs TO THESE.
One of the earliest methods Of preparing meat
was IN the form of sausages. The sausage veneer
Is a common parsonage in the comedies OF ATS
tophanes The men of old seem to have known no
other method of treating tough pieces OF meat
than to mince them. The secret of hanging peel
and meats in a cold atmosphere until the horeS
soften is a comparatively modern one
The Roman preparations of minced meat SEASON.
inc and bread-crurnbs were more like modern
forcemeat than sausage. The best sausase-
makers of those days, as well as OF THESE, Ho"
ever used no bread-crumbs, but lean OF peei' veal
or pork mixed with clear fat Of pork and seasoned
with spices and herbs. Excellent sausases oi ciea
meat were made III Roman times at Mordena' ana
probably a. Bonoma, now Bologna. village near
by. whence our best Mortadella takes its name.
The true bologna sausage is always boiled before
it Is sold IN market. Therefore these sausages are
properly served without further cooking lhey
should be merely sliced In the thnnest possioie
slices and served with slight garnish OF parsley
LYONS sausages are served the same way Inc
best bologna sausage is made to-day OF the ieah
beef and fat OF pork. These two varieties OF sau-
sage are TIE only ones OF foreign make that can
be purchased without suspicion There IL not the
slightest doubt that the flesh Of variety OF AMI
mails not known to American butchers stalls enters
into the composition of the cheaper European
sausages. Mor,adela and Lyons sausages. wheh
purchased from a perfectly weknown and trust
worthy dealer are above such suspicious lhey
are better therefore. purchased than reproduced
by any imitation In home cooking.
The common pork sausage OF the butcher shops
is often objectionable 1t is no secret that IN TINS
way unsound and uncean scraps OF meat that are
not considered fiji for any other purpose are ol'eh
used up. 1t Is an easy matter 10 make THESE sd"-
sages with "A meat cutter home. a good cutter
will cost from 50 10 g. according to size IL is de-
sirable to choose that is as simple as possible.
II Should b. made that all the parts can De
taken apart and the chopper Thoroughly cleaned
otherwise minute piece" or meat VIII soon pecoi'c
lodged in the machine and cause an unpleasant
odor that is dificult remove. good meat
chopper is most valuable in the kitchen for hash
ing M cooked rleat for croquettes and other
minces as well as for cutting raw meats for soup
sausages. and forcemeats.
The best rule for sausage meat calls for three
times as much lean meat as fat. Lean pork OF
lean veal may be used. beef. as in bolognas
and clear pork fat such as is used In Harding. veal
udder fat or even BEEF suet Take seven pounds
and a half OF clean lean pork and TWO POUNDS ana
a half of lardlng pork. ground to fine mince Adu
three ounces OF salt. OF pepper tnree-Iuarte's
OF an ounce OF sage and half an ounce OF summer
savory. These s8usages can be made from tifne 10
time as they are needed. When packed In round
muslin bags about half the diameter of small SAT-
bags they will keep long time, If the bag IS dipped
in melted lard before il is put away Inc iard HIS
all the interstccs Of muslin when 1t hardens ana
thus effectualy SHUTS out the iHesc S""'oSN'
are very dainty when the lean OF veal Is suDsu-
tuted for pork In either way they make most
delicious breakfast dish when properly served.
Beef sausagcs require special treatment Suosti-
tute seven and half pounds or lean Deer ior t"e
lean pork and add two cloves OF garlic minced as
fine as possible and mixed thoroughly through Add
two teaspoonfuls Of ground cloves and some nutmeg
IN the dayoring herbs Beef suet can be used In
Mace of the Harding pork but It Is not as good Inc
udder fat of veal is nice, however. in veal sau'
sages but difficult get as 1t Is usually sold win
the leg Of veal Beef sausages are better packed
in bags half the diameter OF small salt bags, ana
boiled slowly for hour and a half. They may
then be cooled in the pot liquor and cut into tnn
slices when cod FOR tea. These sausages somewhat
resemble the Dutch 'roiches,' famous knicker-
Veal ana pork are not often boiled. They ar, are
latter is a delicate way Of cooking them. A nice
manner of serving an ordinary fresh; weli-ma made
White onion which has been minced fine in table
ordinary pale sherry Put in six saussg g AN, ana
brown them for three minutes on each slde; then
Ne eSusages cook for five minutes longer. Take
ND the sausages skim off the fat and pour the gravy
Shen the brown gravy is poured the sausages
are an improvement. Always serve rather tart
apple cn1s T ess Fy Them in the fat
and use them as garnsh TO fried sausages.
hakn iran in not oven and let them brown six
minutes side then turn them on t d G 'be
in cgg and breadcrumbs, as croquetteS are treated
hut allow the superfuous fat 10 fry ou in the oven
I av them for one NONE Mt on piece OF brown paper
to remove the grease ana serve tnem win or p,n
n,rce of beans For this PURGE the red bean COR
which the French make their red puree) Is some
,r1s used but the small white pea bean Is excellent
fnr This purpose Soak II over night In the morn
ada poonful of butter and small onion with
a snriq ,f t6vme half q bayeaf, spray or parsley
and me OF soup celery. Let the beans slowly Simmer
until they are perfectly tender lhey seem 10 asiee
excell gltly win iaNsiSc III HhNoi'
,,oSd veal sausage IS delicious when served with
a nice tomato sauce and grated Parmesan cheese
on separate dish . ,,oo, ,,,Las a oood
cr,nals soaked for fifteen minutes and then
sn,Ieezed out as dry you can with the hands
70 mint of this forccineat add heaptng teaspoon.
fu Of salt very scant one or pepper teaSpoohiui
| ents and add finally white onion that has been
| minced fine and fried in heapinS tablespoonful or
| parsley Mix the forcemeat thoroughly with the
hands This makes excellent stufhng for breast
of veal that has been boned spread tne stunlhe
thicklv on the breast Roll II up Slice small car
| rot and A white onion over II, ana throw IN cup
mi OF veal stock Ii is an Improvement TO lard the
! veal before putting 1t in the pan Let the veal
80, in a hot oven Basic It every fifteen minutes.
II W.ll take two hours steady COOKING IN copper or
aluminium saucepan before the roll becomes the rich.
! golden brown il should be. Dish the veal and skim
the grease off the gravy carefully. ana strain the
gravy over the meat
| The large Spanish onion which will be In
market Is excellent stuffed with nice sausage-meat.
Scoop out the centres after peellng four onions and
| throw them INTO boiling water and cook them for
four minutes: then take them up at once and stun
| t3em with clear sausage-meat, either pork veal
Sci them in deep baking tin with pint OF boiling
stock around them. Put the opening through which