davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

It are pinned Unfortunately bits OF
ribbon. Often a row of sequins will be
fastened all around it. This is then
placed upon the head like crown, and
fastened there. Now one part of the
folded Yashmak is lightly laid over the
top of the head. the fold being brought
down to the eyebrows, and the ends
are pinned at the back. The lower por-
tion is laid lightly againsttthe face and
brought to the back and fastened both
to the hair and to the upper part, but
with two pins only, so that should the
wearer wish to take q drink or eat
something, it would be easy to loosen
one side.
This leaves but two other articles of
attire to describe. One is the parasol.
and the other the wrap or cloak, called
feridjee. which is as obligatory as the
Yashmak. This wrap was designed to
disguise the figure, and on account of
the punching up of the clothes around
the body 1t does it's mission. This fer
Idle differs in material according to the
means of. the wearer. The most COM
mon is black sateen. There are, how
ever, green, yellow and pink silk and
satin ones, but the stuff is never fig
ured. Violet is worn for mourning.
Those in light silks and satins are for
holiday wear and grand occasions.
The shape is like a loose night gown,
open all the way down the front. The
sleeves are immense and loose. The
eridjee always comes ITO the feet. There
is another width of the material sewn
in at the neck, and reaching down the
front to the waist line, and falling in
loose flap down the back to the heels.
This makes it still more ugly and awk-
ward. In some cases the feridjee is
most richly trimmed with curious
needlework. A fight of swallows in
quilted work, went down the fronts.
around the sleeves and all around the
flap of one. Different sorts of ruchings
and plaitings, puffings and shell puffs
and beading, are set around the edges.
But. however 1t Is trimmed, or however
rich or brilliant the material. nothing
can ever redeem the awkwardness Of
its shape.
Parasols partake Of the rainbow tint
OF the other garments. and look like
giant flowers, as their holders carry
, them along. Gloves are nearly always
white, and many wear their rings out
side them.
In these latter days, some Of the wo-
men cry TO dress a la Franc. or In
| French costumes. The effect is most
| deplorable. The Turkish woman on
high heels, and with her feridjee and
Yashmak. is a sight to make Mohamed
weep. Those who do wear French
! gowns do so at home mostly, but it
| takes but a short time to teach them
! that comfort and French clothes have
no affinity, and after having gratified
| their vanity, they gladly return to
! their trousers and entarri. The real
| Turkish costume is one such as wo-
men should keep in it's integral purity
as long as possible, and no woman,
however young and beautiful, can af-
| ford to dispense with that diaphanous
| veil, which enchants her charms ten
| fold. Even a plain and quite elderly
woman becomes thing of beauty I'M
der it's benificent folds.
OLIVE HARPER.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

So the Daniels family has two CAP
tains. and the two captains have two
steamboats,; that isn't all. The two sons
Fletcher Daniels and Fred Daniels, men
of thirty and twenty-five, respectively
act as engineers, one for Capt. George
the other for Capt. Philemona. And so,
when the Little Nellie is running the
regular trip to Westport. and the Water
Lily is chartered by an excursion party
for trip to the Thousand Islands or
ELSEWHERE, it's all in the family
Before leaving Westport one notes an
other instance of the new woman there
in the shape of large summer Inn run
entirely by women, with no man in the
building higher in rank than porter,
or boots. This Is a common enough
phenomenon in soldier-cursed Europe,
but not here.
In Vergennes. Mrs Daniels Is known
as an admirable housewife, and a mod
est. retiring woman. She doesn't like
to have strangers know that she Is
captain, and dresses and looks precisely
like any other mother OF a far. lily in
middle life, giving no sign Of her occupa-
ton, except in the fine color on her face.
which is, after all. no more thar many
summer girls get in the tennis courts
1t is because of her sensitiveness as to
her occupation, which amounts almost
to supersensitiveness that the outside
world has heard little or nothing OF Lake
Champlains woman captain.
Twenty-Five tons isn't such a very big
steamboat. In salt water the Nellie
would be a tug of modest size. On the
1aodlOcked lake she has a, mite Of al
cabin and an open deck,with an awning.
and can carry forty or forty-five pas.
sengers besides freight and baggage.
The wheel-house will hold about three
people at once. It's a pleasant, breezy
outlook of place and much cooler than
kitchen in midsummer. In winter the
boats do not run on account of ice, and
the captains and the engineers have
then their long vacation.
The steamship men say that Mrs.
Daniels is the only woman commanding
a passenger steamboat in the United
States, as she was the earliest
in point of time in command
of any steam craft. There are
two or three other women captains now.
but all in command of freight boats, and
all claiming a record Of service much
shorter than that of Capt. Philemona.
Mrs. Daniels has never had an acct.
dent-never expects one. She is COOL
headed, sensible New England woman.
who bears her unique distinction very
modestly. Everybody is proud OF her
in Vergennes, and Wesport, and every
body has reason to be.
ELIZA PUTNAM HEATON.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

Finally she said: I'm going to get
a license for myself. If I can't get into
tlat wheel-house any other way"
You should hear the masculine Capt.
Daniels tell that story. He's fine,
breezy, handsome fellow. like most sail
ormen. and you wouldn't believe either
he or Mrs. Daniels had been on the lake
as long as they have.
Well, to continue the story, capt.
George. who is immensely proud OF
Capt. Philemona, went to his lawyer to
make inquiries. He found that
woman pilot was unheard of. els there
any legal BAR" he asked, ''to my wife's
getting a pilots license on Lake Cham
plain?'
Don't KNOW" said the lawyer. well
see the inspector" The inspector was
just as much taken by surprise. He
didn't know but he said he'd write to
Washington.
The inspector wrote to Washington.
Nobody could find the word male" in
that new law anywhere. and 1t was so
reported. Then Capt. Philemona took
her examination and got her license.
There was rejoicing in the Daniels fam.
ily you may be sure, that day.
She has had to take fresh examina.
ton every year since, and while she is
modestly silent about these, Capt.
George speaks right out in meeting:
They make it just as hard for her as
they cam" he says; "a deal harder than
for me; but she always comes out flying.
Why, she knows every inch of the lake
bottom, just like she was a mermaid.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

more Beautiful she is. She has no hank
ering after those instruments of tor
ture.
There are no spangled tulle trousers
worn in Turkey. There are no loose
ly knotted slender sashes or girdleS
known there. There areino tiny Figaro
jackets covering the upper and reveal
iSg the lower part Of the waist. There
re lacking, many more things which
poetic fancy has given to the. Turkish
women's dress, but instead there are
other things which for overbalance
them. For instance, the veil.
The proper adjustment of this Yash-
max, or Turkish veil, is of more import
ance than that of a new bonnet with
us, and just as much style is shown by
the way it is worn. 1t is a law of the
Prophet, that all Turkish women shall
wear it, and I do not believe there is
one who would consent to give it up.
The Turkish ladies paint with a most
liberal hand. Their lips are dyed GRIM
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

CT bright maple leaves.
A second high hat was one of the attrac-
tionsiof ths,races yesterday. 1t was worn by
. plump girl with the whitest skin ever saw.
At acasual'glance you would have thought her
powdered, but when you came near you saw
that it was clear white flesh. not pale, but
white with faint rose glow in the cheeks
that made it fascinating The girl
had blue eyes and pretty hands
and was worth looking at wholly
aside from the autumnal newness of her
headgear Her hair was asoft pretty brown
that curled about her face, and above it was
perched a brown felt bat woven in strands
like straw and rising to peak that seemed
almost alpine. This brown hat was trimmed
with Drssd~, ribbons in cream and brown
a-1 6pk- ali ,SiJn Pink maliows Blossoms.
The dress Nat went with it fitted perfectly
into the September colorings Ii was
brswn o@iAkled crepon. The pointed bodice
o. nsown silk mad no trimming. hut with il
was worn broad. folded ticnn OF cream
colored lace. that was gathered about ths
shoulders and rastenea with a bunch or pink
malows &C the waist line. Tee fall sleeves
of brown silk were shirred low on the shoul-
ders.
All the hats that ARE not high are worn
far back on the head. This is to show the
forehead and the soft waves of the new style
of hair dressing. One very pretty Gains
b6fough Of huckleberry blue straw is trim
med heavily with black ostrich plumes and
yellow roses.
At Lenox and at Tuxedo there are new
tailor gowns to see. On the golf links of the
Berkshiresvillage. perched among the hills.
any number Of novelties aired themselves
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

IN THE wHEELHOUSEOF THE WATER LILY.
Fort Tieconderoga and Lake George.
But if you want to see anything of the
captain herself embark with Mrs.
Daniels from Westport in the afternoon.
It's easy sailing and plenty Of sea room
on the big lake, and the stops she makes
with freight or passengers for the sum-
mer camps, in the woods along the
shore, involve no great difficulty. But
when, after passing Fort Cassn, Of 1914
fame, and crossing the bar, she begins
to run up the narrow and crooked Otter
creek, the passenger is forced to admire
the skill of the navigator, and is quite
ready to agree that the United States
inspectors knew precisely what they
were about when they licensed Phile-
mona Daniels to command passenger
steamers of not greater than twenty
five tons burden, upon the waters of
Lake Champaign, and its tributaries"
you can see the framed license overhead
in the wheelhouse of the Little Nellie.
which Capt Philemona has bought and
paid for with her own money.
Thirty-five years Mrs. Daniels has
navigated the lake with but one brie|
interegnum. That was about fifteen
years ago. when Congress passed an
act forbidding any but licensed pilots
to set foot in a wheel-house. Previous
to that, Mrs. Daniels had acted as as
sistant to her husband, Capt. George
Daniels. She had done this because the
family was then poor and it was the
most natural way for her to help along
For awhile Mrs. Daniels chafed in in
activity. Her children were growing
up, skilled help on the boat cost money,
she felt more than ever the impulse to
return to her old occupation. =.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

ted !befofe. The on'y trimmings in front
were soft, spresding owls wings, brown and
gray and duskY, and, as looked at them,
thought of the dress that should go with
such chapeau.
A grayish brown serge, | would have it.
for the street or for travelling. Plain of
skirt and with a cream coored blouse under
smart coat with black braidings.,
A yellow ribbon might do for the
belt of it, with wide bows and ends. Trim
in every line would make it and yet with
just touch of gayety; and then for Septem-
Der when one is here, there and never for
four days at a time anywhere it would be
the smartest costume imaginable.
Another hat was of dark blue rough straw
with the high peaked crown that is set down
as one of our Louis Seize: fancles. though in
reality IL Is quite as mucn modern SWISS as
last century French. These cope-snaped
structures are not pretty but when Dame
Fashion. general-in. chief of her band OF
Amazons, calls to arms, what is there to do
but obeys This particular blue hat was
trimmed with a smart twist of black velvet,
through the knot Of which was drawn a twig
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

and one of genuine diamonds or other
precious stones, all on at the same time;
together with brooches, earrings of i'm
mense dimensions and bracelets over
four inches wide of heavy gold, set in
precious stones. Besides all these, her
hands are studded with rings of all
kinds, and in her hair, or on her little
cap, there will be as many more as can
be piled on. You never see a Turkish
lady with bracelets on the upper part
of her arms, for they are never left
uncovered.
In the home, on cold days. many wo-
men have a lined and wadded dressing
gown, with the four breadths of the
skirt left open, and with a sort of waist
and sleeves; but invariably the upper
portion of the waist is left open, to dis
play the neck and Jewels.
In very cold weather and it is ex-
tremely cold in Turkeytin winter they
all have warmly wadded gegeliks, al
most exactly like those worn by the
men; simple dressing gowns in shape.
Over this they weafa long loose sleeved
garment called aSGoonalf; of wool lined
with some kind of fur. This is worn all
day, las the Insufficient FIRE in the tiny
mangal would allow them to freeze
without the fur garment. Red fox is
preferred to any other fur, but is ex-
tremely costly, so they must put up,
with the musk rat and other cheap furs.
Atsnight they slip off only the jacket.
scarf and enuarri. leaving the trousers
on, add a wadded gegelik and sleep in
that, both summer and winter. No cor
sets .conflne their waists. as the more
flesh q woman has in that land, the
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

without it. and it's not at all an uncommon
thing to meet upon the street prstty girl in
a idress that in the broad glare Of sunlight
seems almost decol.e.e. Mrs. George Gould
has brought with her from abroad number
of dresses that exhibit this new fancy. One
is pale blue silk reception gown. SO full in
the skirt that it makes you think of the little
girls who spin about on the sidewalk until
their dresses stand out straight from the
waist line. One of its Lovel features is Its
sleeves which do not start on the shoulders.
where NE have been taught of late that all
good sleeves should begin, but away down
upon the arms. They make you think they
had forgotten until the last minute that they
were expected to grow. And then as If to
make up for lost time they swell out into big
putfs. collapsIng again just upon the elbows.
Another novel feature Is Inc neck
arrangement. which in lieu of high
folds of silk or ribbon, is a fiat
circle of guipure lace, low enough and loose
enough to show the throat, an innovation
sure to be hailed by young, plump and pretty
women. More guipure extends in bands
from the throat circle to the chem of the
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

yer threads, and often with coral, tur-
quoise or seed pearls. There are elbow
sleeves, which often are left flowing be-
low the elbow. The crepe chemise falls
below the other sleeves quite to the
waist. The Jacket is worn only in
warm weather.
When in the harem the women wear
all manner Of fanciful head-dresses.
But wherever the Turkish woman is
she wears a collection of jewels, limit
ed only by the contents of her Jewel
case. She has no sense Of fitness, and
will put a necklace of brass sequins on
with a costly diamond necklace. 1t is
not uncommon to see a lady with one
or two strings of enormous wax pearl
beads, a brass necklace enamelled with
black or other color, several strings of
tilagree ornaments, coral necklace,
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

During a visit to Montana proml-
nent Chicago gentleman went with a
party just starting for grand hunt
for big game in the Yellowstone region"
He remarked to the leader: You cannot
hunt in Yellowstone Park" "Oh, no."
said the leader. 1--WE go outside the
limits of the park. and if the game
won't come to us we know how to man
age to make it come" Such excursions
are not uncommon. and it will not be
strange If hungry Indians should coca.
sionally initiate their white BRETHREN
Chicago Inter-Ocean
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08
The Thoughtful Chauncey.

"a good story is told on Chauncey De-
pew. He received letter from young
married friend in Albany asking for
pass for his mother-in-law, who was
coming to make him a visit. and closing
with the delicate hint, Don't forget to
have the return coupon attached" Mr..
Depew is nothing il not worldly wise
and sympathetic, and in sending the
pass he wrote, II have not neglected the
return coupon and have limited 1t &c
three days.-Minneapolis Journal.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

son, their cheeks carmine. their eye
brows and lashes blackened with kohol
and the rest of the face made white
with arsenic paste, or some similar
compound. This looks CHASTITY, until
the veil is put on to hide and soften
the violence of the contrast,
and etherialize the whole face.
The outlines take on new
elusive Beauty, and there Is no
woman who is not made a hundred
times more attractive seen through the
veil.
The Yashmak consists of two yards
of crepe lisse, or Broussa gauze. This
is firmer and more durable than lisse,
and keeps its crisp shape better, but
the lisse gives a softer grace to the
features. There is. however, little diff
ference. The two yards are cut apart.
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

people pass it by for higher hills or for
tho lake shore.
This is probably the reason why the
only woman captain of a passenger
steamer in the United States has little
more than a local fame, and is quite as
likely to be seen by accident in West
port. way across the lake. by the sum-
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08
ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
Verv Newes+ Things in Autumn Hats,
ksaps and Gowns
1AwN OF TIE PEAKED CROWN.
The Stock Collars Sun Sets and
the High Crown Hats Star
is in the Sky - New
Evening Costumes.
s,yrisas, 1885, by Bachelor. johnson p.oho,lsr.,

he autumn nat was
expected to be radi-
cal. 1t has disap-
pointed belief. The
winter hat may pro-
pose some daring in
novations. but the
autumn hat is just
brig ht as to color,
piquant. interesting.
In the showroom
OF an importer who
was getting her early
display into order 1
sat down this nora
ing and looked
around. Behind the
glass doors just in
front OF me there nod
ded something very
broad and coarse, in
a rush-like straw.
The hr1n1 Of IL was
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

quite so far, but that is the rule. But.
before the Yashmak is put on, piece
of.cardboard is cut out with a point in
front, about three or four inches high,
and from this point it tapers on both
Isldes 10 one inch, where 1T meets in the
back of the head. The shape is some
what like a Scotch cap. This piece of
cardboard is then covered with silk or
satin of the raost brilliant color, and to
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

ali the best autumn models, we're very full
but not high, the broad collar flattening
them at the shoulders. At the elbows they
were gathered into close cloth cuffs, that met
white dog skin gloves in their turn. A blue
straw sailor hat was worn With black velvet
and white ribbon bands.
That the stock collar has suffered at least q
temporary check to its ambition to reach
heights of fame nobody DOUBTS any longer.
At least one-third the autumn models are
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08
STEERS THE WATER LILY.
The Only Woman in the World Who Com
mands Passenger Steamer.
A TRIP WITH MRS. DANIELS.
A Plucky Vermont Woman Who
Took a Pilots License and Navi.
gates Lake Champlain-Her
Sons Engineers.

GRGENN ES, W.,
Sept. 7.-Vergennes
is not a place that
a great many people
visit; though it is
the oldest city in it's
State, and one of the
oldest in New Eng
land. with a record
of 107 years of cor
porate life. 1t is the
mallest city in the
nited States, the
y 0 u n & er towns
make long noses at
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08
1os ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING. SEPTEMBER


leaving the pieces. each one yard
square The hair is dressed in the most
becoming way. Styles in their couture
are frequently changed. Sometimes
the forehead is left bare, sometimes the
hair is banged, often it is crimped or
curled, and in fact the Turkish ladies
are not far behind our own in the fash
ion of hair dressing. They have mag
nificent hair.
When the two squares of the Yask-
max are cut they are folded diagonally.
leaving a double bias fold, one to be
brought up above the end of the nose.
and the other down to the eyebrows.
Sometimes they are not brought down
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

Thursday afternoon. There was. for exam
pie, a huckleberry blue serge skirt, OF the
full plain type, now universal, straight In
front but dipping into deep folds behind.
The bodice was Of black velvet and made a
pointed blouse with short tails 1t had wide
collar extending from square neck and al
most forming a cape over the shoulders.
This cape was edged about With white 20 cor
respond with the white ch'msette, from
whose edge it turned away. The sleeves, like
The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08

nearly straight in front, but it turned up
sharply behind to make place for bunch
gnldanrod and cardinal flowers The
raw was ba ck-a little point that l om it.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1895-02-17

lators will quit splitting hairs, pass the
bill in its present form aud trust the
governor 90 make such regulations
for its distribution as may be found
necessary. the starving people would
greatly appreciate their humanity
and. possibly. have more highly cole
ofed opinion of their qualities as
Statesmen. Mr Baker has presented
eight different petitions fo- aid from
Kay county urgent calls come from
Grant county. the daily papers arc
lied with articles wrb reference GO
the need Of aiI aud tac opinion VIII
bs formed iu other sections t.at thc
thlri legislative assembly i- deaf 90
tue voice of the worthy poor. u iE-
d.cI such IS not already The casc
The house shou'd take action 90 once
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1895-02-17
oARNlsnmENrs USELESS.
fudre Caldwell m Not vtthhold Pay
from Empioyos

from EmPioyos
ST LoU1s, No. Feb. l6-Jnited
states Circuit Judge Henry C. Cald-
well has recently been asked many
questions as 20 the attitude Of the
court in the matter Of shment
suit. brought against receivers Of the
Santa Fe and Frisco roads. to secure
the payment Of debts owed by EN-
plotes Yesterday he placed on file
in the clerks office a letter which is
intended to be an answer 10 cover all
such queries.
The letter in brief is as follows:
You will not be in contempt Of
any court over which l preside by
suing out writ OF garnishmeut -
r1rn shee the wages of an cmplove Of
the receivers Of the Atchison. Topeka
and Santa Fe railway company. But
If YOU get Judgment against the re-
cclvers as garn ishees you cannot levy
upon the property in their posses
sion as receivers, or otherwise
compel them 20 pay IL by
any process issued from the court
rendering the garnishee iud yment.
The receivers are forbidden hy an
order of the court to pay any judg-
mcnt except upon the order OF the
court appointing them. AMI the rule
j. not TO pay any attention 20 the gar
nishment OF the monthly wages Of
the employees OF the receivers beyond
a respectful notice to the plaintiff and
the court IN which the garnishee pro-
ccedings are pending, that the wages
Of the employees will be paid TO them
in person in pursuance OF the order
of this court"