The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-12-08
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York, Dec There is a prevailing
Impression. among those who don't know.
that the new v~omnn wears psfen,as IN
her boudolr. This is an idea that is en-
tirely illogical; for however much may
be SAID IN Iavor or bifurcated street
garments, they are neither graceful nor
comfortable for indoor wear. Even men
prefer the long skirted dressing gown
with its cord around the waist. ana that
alone would be sufficient reason why the
new woman should have preference for
flowing robes
Moreover even in the newest OF women,
feminine traits are bound to crop out
IN the secluslon of their own apartments.
and there is no woman who has been
sufficiently "evoluted" not to take nm
interest in the artistic draping of her
own figure. The teagown offers such op-
portUnity for those long loose folds II ON
the shoulder to the floor give even the
shortest OF women an appearance of
stateliness. For this reason most of tho
indoor gowns are made to drape from
the shoulder without even so much as a
ribbon belt at the waist. Trimming run
ming up and down Is also added 10 in
crease this effect, and the new braiJs
a
the designers of such costumes
he new silks and crepons are tempt-
ing materials for house gowns. Now re
does a silk with large figures apDear 10
greater advantage than in an indoor
gown. The large patterns are rather lo1d
Tor outdoor wear, though in comDina-
seen on the street.
Here is an exquisite tea gown in which
It's owner actually served tea-for there
are great many costumes that go by the
a N fr hfrI. l.tt.
sors would hesitate to receive their
friends. This Is a white silk, heavily bro
caded with large punches OF roses ar
ranged to form a sort of diamond pat
tern. Around the bottom Is a nounce Of
wide point de Nenise lace with a head
ing OF plain silk corded with pink vel
vet 10 match shade In the roses There
is soft front of plain silk which is at
tached with velvet rOsettes to the edges
or the gown proper. These edges are
trimmed with lace like that at the bottom
OF the dress. BIT il Is the sleeve that Ia
the distinctive feature Of this gown 1t
Is really a tght-htting sleeve such as
we used 10 wear, or used to see our big
sisters wear ten years ago. But from the
under arm seam there is draping OF
plain gauzy silk which knots at the ell
DOW ana gives the effect Of a large sleeve
pun. Ih1s gown has a loose velvet stran
az the waist to confine the fullnoss Of
SIX that hangs from the neck but the
loose edges of brocade give the desirable
sweep from the shoulder
Japanese and Chinese silks are favor
lte material for ordinary house gowns
lhey are usually combined with some
PLAIN, dark color, and after the Japanese
. own fashion have no visible fas-
In this, I think the damsel of the ORR
ent Is in advance Of US button-w worship
ing Americans. Anyone who gives tho
subject real thought will admit that
buttons are inartistic and vulgar They
call attention to the details of the make
up OF gown instead OF "concealing art
as all good art is supposed to do.
NHWngtnpIaG Lfga
leaders of fashion from emblazoning their
garments with the most conspicuols ia
Jennings that can be found, and the only
saving grace is in their number which
is so great that it becomes. unreasona bic
to suppose that the gown so trimmed
fastens in all the places that are fur
nlshed with buttons. There are strips
or velvet trimming to be bought now
which have little, enameled buttons seWed
at intervals Of four or FIVE inches; these
are sold by the yard, but one seldom
purchases more than the half yard that
Is necessary to go down the front of the
waist.
But to return to the Japanese girl
and the silks of which she makes her
gowns. The Japs who design the silks
sent here must be of mathematical turn
OF MIND, tor they seem passionately fond
Of geometrical figures. One hardly ever
sees a flower in silk that comes from
Japan.
< pretty tea gown Of Japanese silk has
a blue front to match a peculiar shade in
the pattern. The back of the gown is
also panelled IN similar manner, and has
a train or the plain material. A high ruche
finishes the neck and the sleeves are or
binary leg of mutton.
A house gown which shows the popu-
larity of the Louis XVI waist, has loose.
full front Of soft cashmere which also
forms the demi-trained skirt. Down the
sides. of the skirt are couple or rows
kept in place by silk scarf draped around
the waist and tied in front
At the beginning of the season some one
prophesied that the separate waist would
soon be a thing of the past. But no such
state of affairs is indicated in the show
rooms at the shops. Novelties in waists
are being constantly shown, and, indeed
so long as It is necessary to buy seven
yards of serge for one dress skirt the
separate waists is sure to stay with US
Some of the shops exhibit Persian hand
kerchiefs Of enormous proportions, with
puffs for sleeves.
Plaids still rage I'm everything from a
stocking to a necktie. The plaid with
large checks Is preferred, and blondes are
very fond Of the designs In which PAID
blue and green prevail.
Dresden silks are by far the greatest IA
Vorite for separate waists. They are more
popular than the Dresden ribbon which
has become common OF late.
Lace enters into the composition OF most
waists, and IL either appliuued on tho re-
vers or fiuffed around the collar in some
way. IL II never out OF place, no matter
how much trimming may have been al
ready used.
OF course the blouse waist involves the
necessity Of a belt.
One OF tho newest things / have seen Is
handkerchief 70 the width OF three or four
inches and then running the ends Into a
Alice Am0F8