The record-union., 1895-10-08

mind LA Tulipe Noire." that interesting
tale by Dumas. The day we passed the
tuberoses and the gladiolii were in their
glory, making great masses OF white and
red blossoms, with mother earth for a
background.
When we reached the town we found
ourselves just in time to hear the famous
organ, which was played that afternoon
FOR an hour or more. 1t is wonderfully
powerful instrument, but lacks certain
richness and mellowness of tone that one
Is certainly justified in expecting. Then
we had glimpse of the Town Hall,
where dozen or more OF the corpora
tlon pictures" of Franz Hal's are on ex-
hlbltlon. aud we ended our day by a
charming drive of several hours We
drove throug hthe town itself, and on into
the woods, crossing bridge after bridge.
Inc houses are most OF the true Dutch
style, with the high, red-t tiled roofs. and
so scrupulously clean. What amused
me were the little mirrors fastened out
side the windows, and SO arranged that
when turned at q certain angle the entire
street, with its busy thoroughfare, could
be reflected. What scheme for the busy
American housewife! She could then,
by turning her mirror. detect the book
agent or peddler even before he walked
up the steps, and thus the little porcelain
omitted.
Our next sojourn was Amsterdam, the
Venice of the North" as Beadecker
(our friend and guide) SO neatly puts II.
Although one feels it is still Holland, The
spirit Of the place has changed; there is
more the bustling, animated air of a sea-
port; the streets are filled with modern
looking shops, and trains run frequently
in every direction. We saw, while there.
a nZ N oh &c taLy rslQp
TO US it seemed like repetition of Chi
cago on diminished scale.
Not far away is the gallery, which is
situated in the Ryks' Museum. There is
hung the celebrated might Watch'' of
Rem brandt which we were fortunate
in seeing at its best, when the late alter
noon sun just touched it. and brought
the details out clearly. 1t is magniti-
cent picture. and makes the other paint
ings in the room sink into insigniti-
cance-but if [ stop to dilate upon my
faVorite pictures | shall never finish, so
let me draw 10 a close, with an account
of our trip to the Island of Marken. We
started OFT one morning on a small
steamer, crowded with people from
nearly every nation and station, but all
intent upon having a good time. Tue
day was cloudy, but we were all in good
spirits, and so put our trust in provi-
deuce-in regard to the weather. We
steamed down the canal until we reached
the village OF Brock, where halt was
made, and we were allowed to inspect
model Dutch farm, arranged, L am sure,
for our special benefit. The stable was a
delight to the eye, with its neat lace cur
tains at the windows and its sandy floor
arranged in symmetrical designs. The
house itself was very neat. but small,
and did not compare with the stable, for
the owners slept in little beds built into
the wall like berthS on steamer and no
fancy lace curtains were wasted upon
them. About this time thundery-
looking black cloud came up and we hur-
ried back TO our steamer, stopping only
once, at place with fearful Dutch name
aud ending with the usual naughty
termination. viz, ''dam." until We
reached-a mud bank.
Then our steamer struggled and pulled
and blew without being able to dislodge
herself and in the meantime the rain
played j pleasing accompaniment upon
the souls clustered together on deck.
Finally a sailing vessel, manned with
Dutch sailors wearing the proyerDial
breeches, came to our rescue, but the
roDe parted each time she attempted to
pull US off, SO at last, III despair, the Cap
tain ordered US all to go on board the sail
ing vessel and proceed To AIarken by
wind instead of steam. Though we had
nothing TO do but obey his com maud, our
spirits commenced TO sink. We wore
all more or less moist. and the prospect of
bounding pillows below US and the re-
lentless rain above did not add to our
pleasure, but finally we reached the
island. At the landing the inhabitants
clustered about US with a look of eager
longing for coin upon their faces, as if
each regarded the unwary tourist as a
legitimate prey. The costumes were
picturesque and unique. but with de-
cided theatrical appearance. We found
nothing of that innocent simplicity
among the natives that we had expected,
and as a whole the Island of Marken was
a sad disappointment, perhaps due, in
a measure, to our damponed spirits.
About ) o'clock our steamer appeared
upon the scene, having tioated off the
banks at high tide, and. wrapped in
rugs and protected by umbrellas, we
wended our way back to Amsterdam by
the Zuider Zee. Tomorrow we leave
Holland for fair Germany, SO now my
tale is ended, for the land of the Dutch
man at least. EVELYN Z. NORWOOD.