The evening times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1902, 1895-12-27
RESTAURANTS OF Old ROME
Some Of the Ancient Cafes Where Men and
Women Ate famously.
Greater Simplicity In Modern Times,
But Many Of tho Places Retain
Their characteristics.


The life or the Italian race, as that of al
races that inhabit warm, southern climates
Is an outdoor life. The climate alone Is
not the cause. But also an old law or Gus
| tom which compelled the people TO eat theii
| meals III public view. This was done to
show the populace that there was no iuxu-
| rious waste, and that the wealthy and
humble ate the same quality OF simple and
substantial food as themselves. This was
IN the time when the Romans ate to live.
Later. when they lived to eat, their
| meals were not partaken OF in view OF the
| populace, but In magnificent apartments,
| when the viands were set out Oh cedar wood
| tables, jeweled with precious stones. II
was not considered a wise policy to have
| the general public view these ostentatious
| and gorgeous feasts, or know OF the ia Il
that five meals day were arta ken OF.
THIS was in the days when the charming
| Dccirnus Clauttius Albinus ate 100 wood
cocks. 400 oysters, 500 figs, ten melons.
| anu twenty pounds OF grapes at single
meal; when Caligula, a la Cleopatra, dis
solved pearls i'm vinegar To drink, and when
one noble individual committed suicide
because by giuttony he had reduced his for
to paitry fs0,0O0, and he was afraid he
would die of starvation. Cooks who pre-
pared new and dainty dishes received the
modest salary of FL ,2OO-a slight advance
on what N RS. Vanderbilt pa vs. her cook tOda y.
1twasnot well to Ina We starving popula &C
| see all this beasty display. II is no wonder,
| therefore, the participant Is dined and supped
| no more in their atriums and vestibules,
where the people could see their patrinony
| was being spent in ea ting and drinking and
reveiry. 1t was about this time that Rome
| whose people had become besotted with
| high living, began her memo IA BILE fall. Cato,
seeing whittier the course or events was
tvending, ordered return to the eating
and the simplicity of the avs when Con.
fucius and Fabricius were content TO live
on fruit or n dish OF turnips cooked in an
earthen pot. But Cato did not practice what
he preached, and it was long ere simple li,-
ing again became the fashion in ROM.
But today simplicity is more the IA shion.
The habits OF frugal living and outdoor life,
replaced for Il time by selfisness and AFRO
CANT ostentatiOn, are again the essence OF
Roman life. This is evidenced by the cafes
or restaurants scattered all over Italy.
The cafe is to the Italian what home and
offke are to men Of other nations. Here
he transacts his business, meets his friends.
reads his journals. and wines. dimes and
sups from year to year. going to his house
he has no home-only TO sleep. In the
summer time cafes have their chairs and
the street and the passerby must go outside
the crowded space. Here whole families
come and sit and chat away the evening
hours, with the star-besprinkled sky above.
In Nero's golden house the dining room was
covered with "A roof representing the sky.
which opened rs ii by ma gic and showercd
the guests with flowers.
In the narrower streets are cafes where
the poorer part of the population lives
The wooden benches are filled with men
and women possessing but the smallest
portion or this worlds goods. For a penny
invested in cup of coffee they have the
privilege OF passing the night there. many
having no bed elsewhere to rest upon.
In the suburbs, too, the cafes are al
ways well patronized. The efforts at
adjournment are always OF the crudest kind
perhaps virgin and chilli over the door
way, picture of a fortune wheel on the
wall or grotesquc sketch of a cock. with
the words:
"Quando questo gallo cantera,
Aiiora, credenza 81 fara."
when the cock crowsb --
Credit will be given.l
There are many famous restaurants in
RoDIe. but the most famous for over a Gem
fury and a half has recently disappeared
1t was the Veneziano. This cafe pla we'd
history of the Roman people for nearly 200 |
years IL was the first public cafe estab- |
lished in Rome. and was carried on by one
family for 20 years. In the beginning its
appointments were of the crudest kind
rough-hewn benches and tables OF wood
constituted the whole furniture. For sill
verware there was one spoon. which served
In turn for zach guest to stir his coffee with.
One of the original founders was a yene-
tan, and therefore the house was called |
the Cafe del Interchangeable because this |
was the first introduction OF COFFEE as a |
beverage into Rome. For a time the drink |
became so great a fad that chocolate nd |
even wine We're replaced by it. 1t was here |
also that the custom OF reading journals |
Ia public places originated. Such Journals |
as the kracas. the oldest Journal of Rome; !
the Notizie del Monde and the official organ |
of the government, the Gazette di Fuligno. |
were distributed about for the entertain |
ment OF the patrons. This soon brought the |
wealth and fashion OF Rome to sip coffee 1
and read the Journals. The greatest men |
OF the times congregated about its tables |
and discussed questions of state and Of
war, OF art, poetry and OF science OF wealth
fashion and power.
Metasio recited his verses here: Monti,
the tragetiian, warred against France in a
voice while sitting at one of the
little tables; the gentle composer, Picinini,
and that other composer who has given us
such grand and beautiful operas, Rossini.
eNcha nged friendly toasts with the ha bitues
d The Cafe del V eneziano. 1t is said that
Turlonia. the founder OF the princely house
Of Turlonia. laid the foundation of his for
tune by his negotiations in this restaurant
with the two noted financicrs, Lavaygi and
Sculties.
Black gowns were not absent. either |
or the good Able Sanford. sent forth from
he Able GODDARD sung here his sweetest
onnets in praise of Napoleon. Antonell. |
)i PietrO and Morichini. who afferward |
'ecame cardinals. and the Able Nastai.
Pope Plus TX, also used TO fire. |
uent this cafe.
The wooden benches and tables, the
ingle spoon and smoky candle light of |
he earlier period. ard the velvet divans
nd handicapped tables. the extensive
ilverware and brilliant Nominations of
he latter time. are all gone. But the Cafe |
lei VenezianO served its purpose 1t in
reduced restaurants in Rcme.
As sometimes happens WREN the wheel
fortune turnS. the last proprietor. who |
ad kept the restaurant for forty wears
1T him by his gradfathers. and catered
2 his time to the wealthiest and nobIest
+ tie land. became himself a waiter in |
n inferior restaurant. at a ComDensa tiOn |
less than sixty cents day.
The Oldest cafe now in Rome is II Cafe |
Ell Greco. which is great resort for |
rtists. There are several splendid raint-
lgs in this one OF which is said o have hcen
ainted by TiepOlo. AragnO's is also a |
lnlOuy restaurant: it is IN tie Icart of |