davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1895-06-23

lberate care. If lace covering is to be
used. the satin or silk must be plain,
else the general effect will be pauchy.
Particularly fetching are the silv, ,ry
laces, green and rose color if the lace
cover is white; black, white, yellow and
scarlet lend themselves we'll to black lace.
The most stylish parasos are of the Dres-
den howered silk, woven just the re-
quired shape. On the creamy ground all
sorts of exquisite flowers are produced in
all of the wonderful shadings so familiar
on bits of Dresden china. Around the
edges q border shows of the fowers,
massed into bouquets, joined by long
loc ps and lovers knots of silver, gold or
pale blue ribbons.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor brought over q
dream of parasol from Pairs, which sho
| used for the first time on Decoration day.
| Closed, it resembles nothing so much as
a long, slim roll of violets. with hanule
of green enamel. thickly studded with
amethysts. Opened, 1t proved to be the
inevitable sunshade. out such beauty OF
a sunshade was never seen before. The
| lining was rose lilac. just the shade 10
becoming to Mrs. Astor. and which st G
usually wears. 1t was not put on straig!
ard plain after the manner of the old-
fashioned Innings. but the soft, silky
chiffon was folded in ana out III an in
describa bly, pretty fashion. forming such
frame for her delicate beauty that yor
almost forgot to look and see how those
violets were put on the outside.
The outer covering was of green silk
The herald., 1895-06-23
SOME VERY
QUEER IDEAS IN FOREIGN
COURT LIFE

In the Austrian court it is contrary to
custom fo- perishable articles to appear
twice on that imperial table. The result
Is large perquisites for the attendants. To
ono man fall all the uncorked bottles,
to another the WINE left in the glasses, to
another the joints and to another still
the game or the sweets. Every morning
O sort of market is held in the basement
of the palace, where the Vlennese come
readily to purchase the remains. And
there is no other means of procuring I'M
perial Tokay than this.
Long ago in England. even the great
est men III the land were pleased to re-
ceive such perouisites. In the reign of
Henry H., for instance. the lord chancel
lor was entitled to the candle-ends OF one
great and forty small candles per day.
And the maquarius, who must be baron
in rank, received one penny for drying
towels on every ordinary occasion OF the
kings bathing. The ceremonial that
the revolution swept away from the nrst
emperor Napoleon was careful to revive
in less extreme form, and it is charac-
terIstic of the man that he made special
study of it. and went so far as to pres
cribe the special forms to be obsered on
great occasions. Before his coronation,
NJ. Isabey, the miniature painter, gave
seven rehearsals with wooden dolls ap-
propriately dressed of the seven cere-
monies that were to be enacted. Aad
one ceremony being especially intricate,
the functionaries rehearsed it in person
in the gallery of Diana at the Tuilerles,
q plan HAVING been carefully traced with
chalk on the floor. This was the sort of
thing in which Napoleon rejoiced. and
he himself arranged beforehand all the
details of the entry of Maria Louisa into
France, and of his subsequent marriage
to her. Among other PARTICULARS on
reaching what was then French territory
the archduchess was conducted into the
eastward room of q three-roomed house
near Braunau; the French commissioner
room in the middle was occupied by the
who gives an account of the proceedings,
having bored holes with a gimlet in the
door of the middle room, had a splendid
view of the unconscious princess. But,
he quantity adds, it was the ladies who
took most advantage of his forethought.
The ceremonial of the Chinese court is
somewhat exciting. 1t used to include. if
it does not now, complete prostration
before the throne. Last century Persian
envoy refused to go through the degrad-
ing ordeal Directions were given to the
officials to compel HIM by stratagem to
do so. On arriving one day at the en-
trance to the hall of audience. the envoy
found no means of going in except by
wicket which would compel him to stoop
| very low. With great presence of mind
| and considerable audacity the ambassador
| turned round and entered backwards,
| thus saving the honor of his county,
London Standard.
The herald., 1895-06-23
JERSEY WAISTS
THOUGH OUT OF STYLE CAN BE PUT
TO GOOD USE

Keep a thing for seven years and
you'll find use for it, - is q saying that
is illustrated often in unexpected ways.
The once beloved but now despised nd
discarded jersey waist has bean restored
to position of usefulness by an ingen-
ious woman, who recently hit upon the
novel plan of making some old ones that
had lain useless Tor at least the traditional
seven years do duty as foundations upon
which to build some extremely pretty
blouse and crepon waists.
The sleeves were taken out, and the
waist part, which fitted smoothly and
easily, was simply perfect. Over one of
these cadet blue crepon of nearly the
same shade, showing narrow satin stripes
OF yellow, was arranged to form full
blouse. Six rows of shirring. crosswise
of the stripes. drew the material into
the required size for the neck, forming a
round yoke three inches deep. The full
ness was drawn down into a space Of tour
inches at the waist line, front and back,
leaving the sides plain. Tho goods were
then cut out at the armholes, and la;ge
puff sleeves, made over e lining the same
color as the jersey, we're inserted. Crush
collar and belt Of Il darker shade of vel
vet and 'dog ear" bows on the shoulders
completed q stylish and becoming waist.
Another. black one. had the crepon
fitted plainly over the back with only a
slight fullness at the waist line. The
front had plain yoke, pointed little in
the center, with moderate fullness below.
Bands of black satin ribbon, edged with
jet bordered the yoke and formed straps
over the shoulders, ending in pointed
tabs little below the yoke in front, and
below the shoulder blades in the back.
The sleeves were full puffs of crepon to
the elbow. tight fitting below, and cut in
two points at the wrists which were
edged with the jetted ribbon; collar of
the ribbon, with double bow of satin at
the back. The bottom of the waist was
cut round over the hips, and was finished
by wide satin ribbon, drawn into gath
cred tucks, each side of the fullness of
the front. and ending in the back in four
stiffiy outstanding bows.
The crepon. almost as elastic as the jer-
sey, lends itself admirably to arrange
ment over such a foundation, and the re-
suit was perfectly fitting and at the
same time delightfully."- easy and comfort
able waist, obtained at considerabl BILE
saving Of trouble and expense.
The herald., 1895-06-23

tered and saw the group of pretty gowns
that did honor to the garden party that
the marchioness of Dufferin and Ava WIS
giving. Everywhere that one wandered
in the spaciuos gardens one encountered
charming couples and picturesque back
grounds. Everywhere there were cooling
drinks and glasses-in the little summer
houses, over at the tennis court, at the
queer little wine tables and chairs. placed
in inviting hooks sc distinctly French
Yes, it looked cooler, and probably was
SO. than over in the Bois de Borlogne.
where the fete des fleurs was being en-
Enthusiastically celebrated. There WASH t
much enthusiasm about the garden party.
1t was content to listen to music, to str, II.
to langudly drop into graceful attitudes,
to sip punch.
They knew they looked well. the dam
sells, in their delicate pinks and blues aid
creams and yellcws and heliotropes anu
greens-all the shades were well repre-
Sentsd. l was surprised at the sim plicity
of the greater numb Der Of the costumes
The herald., 1895-06-23

and asked in what was almost an ag-
grieved tone il there was really nothing
new. Absolutely nothing, they assured
me. "Niether will there be for at least
two months. We are making everything
as we have been. only little bigger.
of batiste or other dainty muslins. Oh
course the lower skirt is OF silk and the
upper hangs altogether separate. They
are both of the same tint and the bastic
is trimmed with small frills or ruif1es of
very dainty ace-Valenciennes or Ain
con.
"We are using great deal of Alencon
Just now. The bodces generally have
some sort of tichu effect. in lace or chiffon
the round effects are most graceful for
the light garden gowns. We MAKE sleeves
and all OF the same tint. as of the anne
material. No, do not think the gauze
sleeve, or silk sleeve. combined with
some other material. at all artistic. Every
thing is white. IL is the most popular
shade and we use little ribbon. no great
quantity. Where pale colors are en-
ployed we sometimes throw pink or
blue slip over white silk foundation,
which softens the effect considerably. But
for the white gown net bit of color is
employed.
"Skirts? They are just the same. We
still use the skirt of the spring, to which
we ada one more godet AT the back,
where we had only three last year. Tne
skirt has its godet each side and the two
in front. that are folded fat toward the
center, so that sort of panel effect is
given on the front. That style is for the
more elaborate gowns. such as this, for
instance and a wonderful gown in
heavy white silk, a pompadour stem with
rich roses in hatura. tints, and striped
finely in blue satin, was held up. We
use much of this pompadour silk. But
you see, the skirts are now stiffened only
twelve inches up, no further, never about
the top.
walking skirts are much simpler.
They tit closely all around, until the very
bottom, when the small godets appear at
the edge" EVA A. SCH UBERT.
The herald., 1895-06-23

attractive. 11Here th.re were not only
baskets and bunchos of flowers. but rivers
of them, horses iiower-trmmed. carriages
and bicycles trimmed with them, baby
carriages, parasols ana maids, alike
adorrel with prodigality, while artificial
blossoms were in great profusion on all
the gowns so cleverly reproduced that
only their absolute freshness. after an
hour or two in the glowing sun. could
convince one tnat they were not Mother
Natures.
Here | saw great variety of color and
material - silks, gauzes. mousselins,
piques, crepons, batistes in light and
dark colors. sober backgrounds with high
lights heaped uron them, pale grounds
with with darker tints overspreading.
The one costume | remem bered after it
was over was worn by brunette with
hair of genuine black. She was dressed
too strikingly to be inHall together good
taste and withal the costume was simple.
A cream. VIII tie gown of that soft silky
canvas, with full skirt, blouse of elbow
The herald., 1895-06-23

low lace which is SO much favored thi,
summer. The ribs were of gold alloy, ae
was the beautiful carved handle. AS tho
wide opened parasol was only about th a
size OF dinner plate, it could by q simplc y
arrangement of the folding sticks d y
duty as fan, and the handle serveua
several purposes. for dainty lorgnette
was folded away somewhere, and tiny
little mirror popped out in totally un-
expected way. If hidden spring were
touched. This airy little bit of gold and
lace and satin had to be paid for at the
custom house on valuation of $500.
The herald., 1895-06-23
TIE
WOMAN
0FEASHION

only the slightest blouse effect. It was
laid in a few fine plaits down the center
and the plain bands stretched each side
were gathered closely together at the
waist. Outside of each band a frill of
yellow mousseline de sole strlkingly fin
lshed it. running around the back Of the
sleeves as well. The collar and belt,
knotted at each side, were also of yellow,
as was the lace that nung in small bib,
finished the babyish puffs of the elbow
sleeves and fell in a cascade each side Of
the belt.
Another departure was a blue taffeta, a
delicate. oddsh blue, heightened by
further lightened by widening band of
old guipure down the center, lai id over
| white satin.
The blouse just escaped being tight fit
ting. 1t was all of the guipure except a
narrow band in the center of tho back,
pointing into the belt. and another in
front that widened into blouse effect
The back OF the belt spread into fan ends
and was quite plain in front. The lace
sleeves were quantity caught through the
| center by n band OF the blue, narrowed
at the shoulder and held with the same
| doubler and held with the same double
loops that trimmed the high collar, right
beneath the chin.
T. The third original gown-and it was
| all | could discover-was perhaps most
worthy of the appellation. A lavender
silk. softened almost to white by the sill
yer sheen that overspread it, and delicate
/ ly trimmed with Il narrow point-a lace
that had points at each edge, decided.
striking angles. A row of this was set
into the skirt. some twelve inches above
, the euge. Twosrows OF it were set into
the sleeves. A liner edge ran down each
side of q very modest blouse, and yoke
was outlined by deep Point of the lace,
back and front. and by shaped pieces
which Joined the points over ach.shoul-
| der. \ loose fril OF white mousseline
hung gracefully over the PLAIN col,r.
Over in the Bos do Boulonge the scene
vas oaNe--much caYer. but ncrhapS lSss
The herald., 1895-06-23
That Golden Hair

Judge-What is the charge against the
prisoner at the bar?
Officer-I found her walking the street,
with her golden hair hanging down Ter
back.
Judge-Thlrty days for prowling and
six months for golden hair hanging down
her back. III break up this golden hair
business or I'll quit the bench. Next
case.-Hamilton, Ont, Times.
The herald., 1895-06-23

PARIS, June 12.-lt is warm at Paris,
warm even In the garden nooks mess close
ly embowered; warm in the Bois de Bou-
logne; warm on the Champs Elysees, ex-
cept for a few delicious moments while
the broad street is being wateIed and
one is down as close TO the vaterer as
possible; so close that the spray almost
touches the cheek; SO close that one
longs that the hand of the sprayer might
slip tor a moment and send over him q
little shower. The spraying is all done
by individuals-no unsightly watering
carts mar the avenues, and one envies the
man who carries the cool water. 1t Is
warm even in the great, cool-looking
parks, right close TO the largest fountain.
1t is warm even in the great garden OF
the English embassy, or it was last Sat-
urday, and 1 expect is still. 1t looked
cool and delicious enough when one en-
The herald., 1895-06-23

sleeves. high, full collar-that vassal Of
the dress. But shs had added black
gloves that reached to the elbow IL
spreading, ,kblack hat, black parasol, loots
and belt. These. taken in connection
with her som Der hair and delicate skin.
made a wonderfully strong picture even
among all the blending of colors that
crowded about her.
The herald., 1895-06-23

thin, gauzy skirts, lightly garlanded with
lace, simple gathered bodices. ever with
lace and chiffon.
OnIy two or three departed from the
almost general rule. One of these was in
ssverer garb-a white pique.of fine quality
with a skirt that had all it's godets at the
b.ck and sides. The front was quite
piaIn and fiat, and the skirt altogether
antrimmed The corsnRa ad'nitrsd Of
The herald., 1895-06-23
She Probably viii

The female of the future will
Be nothing more than human,
j If. when the curtain falls, she goes
Outside "to see woman"
BROOKLYN Eagle
The herald., 1895-06-23

BY using Halls Hair Renewcr, gray, faded
or discolored hair assumes the natural color o
youth. and rows luxui liant and strong, pleas
ing every body.
The herald., 1895-06-23
Just One-Half Price
3 dozen Boys Sailors, 25c to
$500 grade,
Just One-Half Price
4 dozen Misses Dress Shapes,
late, stylish, desirable, SELL
ing $l.OO to $l.5O,

10 dozen Ladies' Dress Shapes,
black and COlOrs, stylish,
not in store six weeks,
selling at Sl.OO to $500,
The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1895-08-14

with plumber of many kinds-postage
stamps and railway tickets from the
post offices and railway offices he had
robbed, cigars, jewelry, BICYCLES, etc.,
etc. This freshman is a LID. in
crime.
HOWELL EDMUNDs JACKSON, an as
socate justice of the supreme court of
the United States, died, August 8, at his
residence at West Meade, six miles
from Nashville, Tenn, aged sixty
three years. Justice Jackson has been
in failing health for several years. He
was appointed United States district
Judge by President Cleveland, April
II, 1886, and was raised to the supreme
bench in January, 1898, by President
Harrison, to succeed Justice Lamar,
deceased; and the nomination was
confirmed by republican senate, not
withstanding he was democrat.
IN an interview in New York, last
Saturday, Robert T. Lincoln discussed
very freely the presidential possibilities,
and declared that he was himself out of
politics. "The republican party has
never been at loss for candidates for
the great office" he said. "It now has
plenty to select from, with reasonable
assurances that the man named will
win. Every influential state has one
or more men who are equal to the
great responsibility. New York will
present Governor Morton, statesman
of approved quality. Maine always has
a man of influence in national coun-
ellis far overshadowing the electoral
vote of the state. Protection and Nc
Kinley are closely associated, and con-
sentative craftsmanship is the strong
characteristic of both Harrison and AL
lison. The material is abundant. The
collective wisdom of the republican
party has always evolved platforms
which stood for everything progressive
and enlightened in public policy. We
will be in the thick of the fight year
hence, but would not like to guess
the candidate at this distance"
The democratic party of Missouri
met in convention, August 6, and de-
the ratio of 16 to l. The free silver
element, led by ex-Representative
Bland, controlled the convention and
reorganized the state central committee
so as to take the party machinery out
OF the nandS OF the " SOUND money ."
men. The resolutions demand the free
and unlimited coinage Of silver and
gold into primary or redemption money
at the ratio of 16 to l, without waiting
for the action of other nations; de-
nounce the substitution of "psnic-
breeding, corporation currency" for
metallic money based on the gold
standard; oppose the surrender to
bondholders of the option of payment
in silver or gold, and condemn the
issuing of interest-bearing bonds in
time of peace, especially through the
agency of syndicates of bankers at
enormous profits to the latter. In the
committee on resolutions there was
hot fight over various phases of the
silver question, but the silver men won
every time. Greetings were sent dem
ocratic conventions in Iowa, Texas and
Mississippi
The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1895-08-14

property at Yungsuh is reported
burned. United States Minister DENLY
at Pekin has been cabled to secure pro-
lection for American missionaries from
the Chinese government. The dis
turbances are away from the coast and
at other points which United States
vessels cannot reach, and so they are
powerless to give protection. Later re-
ports state that nine adults, all British
subjects, had been killed, and all those
still alive ut the scene of the massacre
eight only-had been more or less Sc
sacre was done by members of the sc.
cret society known as the Vegetarians,
who have been causing much trouble
alike to Christians and heather in and
around Kucheng City.
Mr.. GLADSTONE addressed an inn
mense meeting at Chester, Eug., re-
Gently, on the subject of Turkish atroc-
tiles in Armenia. The old statesman
and philanthropist was received with
enthusiastic cheers. Tue present sit
uation in Armenia, he said, resulted
from intolerably bad government--pe
haps the worst on the face of the earth.
He read resolution declaring that her
majesty's government would have the
support of the entire nation in any
measures to secure for the Armenians
guarantees for safety of life, property,
honor and religion. Details of the mas
sacre at Sassoun, which made the blood
run cold, were verified, not only by the
inquiries of European powers, but by
the testimony of Americans also, which
was doubly entitled 10 credence, as
they had no political interest in the
Levant. This testimony, summed up
into three words, was "Plunderl Muir
der Tortured" But the work of the
ravisher and torturer was comparatively
the mild side of the work. 1t was the
doings, not of the dangerous classes, but
of the government at Constsntinople.
Mr.. Gladstone declared that her maj
esty's government must interpose to
redress these wrongs, employing force
If coercion is necessary. These senti-
ments were loudly applauded and the
resolution he had read was carried.
The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1895-08-14
CURRENT LITERATURE.
New Books.

THE little book, "Pebbles from the
Path OF a Pilgrim" by Harriet B.
Hastings, just issued by H. l.. Hast
ings, AZ Cornhill, Boston, is a book of
facts, not fancies, and points out in
beautiful language that many of the
pebbles that bruise the wayfarer's feet
along the weary march of life are in
fact precious stones well worth pre-
serving. II is one of the authors best
works and is sure to meet with large
sale.
"THE STORY OF CHRISTINE ROCHE
FORT" by Helen Choate Prince, just
issued by Houghton, Mifflin & Co.,
Boston, is a remarkable work. The
authors skill in misunderstanding is
undeniable. The story is wonderfully
brilliant, the interest never lags, the
style is realistic and intense, and
throughout there is an epigram natic
force which would make enjoyable a
less interesting story of human lives, or
one less deftly told. 16 mo. Price
1925.
"THE CHOSEN VALLEY" is a novel
by Mary Hallock Foote, Riverside Pa
per Series. Mrs. Foote is doing an ex-
cellent service by depicting in her sto-
ries of western life certain tendencies
and acknowledged principles which no
high or sound civilization can adopt.
The Boston Transcript well says: "The
eager, competitive struggle of life in
our frontier settlements, the hurry and
the worry of all business enterprise, af-
fords abundant material for the weav-
ing of romance. AS broken, billy
country il more picturesque than a
plain, so the ups and downs of this
feversh life present aspects quite un
known to the even tenor of our fore
fathers days. 1t is the work
of woman to examine the foundation
on which the fabric of that social life
is built. 1t is for her to expose the
weakness of that theory. This is what
Mary Halock Foote has most success
fully done in writing the story of The
Chosen Valley No reader can mistake
the authors purpose" To reassure
those who are not primarily concerned
about any high aim in novel, the critic
adds that "the telling of the story is
admirable" Houghton, Miffiin and
Co., Boston. Price fifty cents.