The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-09-22
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York, Sept. 21-The woman of fasn-
ion is not peculiar in being fond Of
changes. Hence a variation in the big
sleeve is desirable
The woman OF fashion is conservative.
Hence the variation must not be very
pronounced. 1 should say that device
fairly covering both these desirable points
is that of building the balloons upon a
lining. and lacking them to the lining at
two places about midway of the upper
arm.
A light silk so treated and displaying at
the areas of cohesion a tab OF black vel4
vet running lengthwise of the arm is quits
as balcony as It would be without such
adornment and much more emphatic. both
by reason of the velvet and of the shad-
ows i'm the reeesses. The dress Of which
1 am thinking has similar tabs OF black
velvet by way of garniture running from
the black velvet belt upward, at the wrists
and at the throat; and 1t is as light and
bnlowy as the bay on a windy morningS
The wide belt will be scarcely more than
fadlet. 1t was sporadic last spring. This
fall It is epidemic, and every such visltaS
ton must run its course.
Tho broad belt may with q slender figS
ure entirely take the place OF a corset
and is very picturesque when new. 10
Of any material woven by the sons OF men
It win wrinkle. If Of leather II will crease
unless II be of horrifying thickness. Possi-
bly, the transient nature of It's charm may
enhance It in favor with those who can
afford a new belt almost daily, but these
are not many. In the heyday OF it. thu
broad belt will be richly jewelled and ora
namented.
Nothing is prettler than a child's plump
fair face framed in. fluffy lace.
The picture bonnets for young girls this
fan are either of the wide hrlmmed varie.
~. worn well back and show the lining OF
bonnets that look like the Little RED
Riding Hoods of the story. A dark
skinned little fairy, dressed In red
throughout, with reddish leather leggings
and red skirt not over long and red hood
caressing the tendrlls Of hair that nod
saucily under it's soft edges, is a pretty
sight.
Piaids are, of course, much used for the
little ones, and because they are little ones,
very large plaids should not be chosen,
yet oftentimes they are.
There is a favorlte alpaca which is in
texture almost as coarse as canvas. 1t
is IN very darkest blue, most effective,
or in gray or brown. In blue It should
| have turn down collar, shoulder straps
| and capes Of white alpaca, or Of white
/ lined thrice at the outer edge with black
cord through which runs a CLINT OF gold.
With this wear front OF some light silk,
pale mauve say, which reaches quite to
the wrists, and the gown Will have a quiet
charm that Is not without distinction.
Linen is fabric OF note. To Offset
our dark-blue alpaca let there be a
pale-blue corded linen, patterned with
little white flowers and cut with a long
rolling collar, like that of youths
Tuxedo coat in front, and running be-
| iBf oil
rial white drilling. This jacket opens
in front to disclose a frilled muslin
dickey over four deep pleats Of the
linen. This fabric may be worn In sunny
weather for good six weeks yet For
| fall droops not very rapidly to winter
In these degenerate days, and snow 10
far away.
The blouse Is dead; long live the bod
The close of summer makes the dread
return Of Journalism. No longer may
the woman of fashion wear blolses OF
many colors alternately over q skirt of
one. but skirt and bodice must enter
into mystic relations, harmonies and un-
derstandings. The skirts of these. more
formal gowns are narrower than before,
and there is regretted tendency TO the
use Of trimmings upon them, though a
| season of experience ought certainly to
| justify their utter plainness. There will
be trimming Of passementerie, Of lew
elled gold and silver braid, Of velvets
The plain skirt was, It may be, too
| good to last
A seasons novelty will be the stamps
ed or printed velvets. Their patterns ara
printed in green or blue or orange and
cloths Of diverse cOlors or with the
plaids which tall women fancy.
II Is to be velvet season Besides
the stamped velvets there win be quan-
titles of narrow velvet ribbon braid in
commission, and belts and collars o1
dark blue or black velvet will be used
to set off almost any kind Of light fab
rio. And there are still in use some OF
those striking woven -velvets In checks
and stripes, and oddity not commendabla
In a material so dIgnifed.
The woollen fabrics of the fall VIII
cheviots and tweeds are in favor where
the plaid loses its hold, among the tinier
women, just as high as ones heart.
All the color schemes in woollens in-
| troduce warmth. There is a tendency,
as nature dons her russell livery for
art to lay aside her blues and grays and
| ape the prevailing hues. Brown Is a
| first favorite, with orange or canary yell
low as its relieving hue. Ladies with
| compilations which will bear it will wear
\ are quaint and cerie combinations OF
greens and dull gold with yellow that
| possess 9. piquant beauty. Duh red has
The season OF Jewels and ornaments
has set IN in deadly earnest. Relts, the
narrow ones. focus attention 2 at the
/ buckle or clasp. Silver is not the only met
al in use. Clasps in medallion shape. the
/ longest way of the oval running up and
/ down. are of gold smooth and Furnished
/ in the middle and flagreed around the
/ edge; Of gold studded with real or imita-
/ ton Jewels. The use Of cheaper substi-
/ tutes for real gems grows more and more
/ frank and open. Rhinestones are used
/ freely in decorations, not only Of belt
/ buckles. but upon clasps and bands upon
the hat or in the corsage. Girdles made
ALL or nearly all, of gold or silver are
quite as much in favor as the ordinary
ribbons, and can be made very expensive.
But the seasons great feature Is, af-
ter all, the the button humble article in
its day now vaunting the high estate. The
iridescent button of great size, the mot
tied or pattern button and the many
beautiful Dresden buttons are chiefly in
favor.
Well, for the woman of fashion IL she
like the flash and the glitter of brave
garb, for this Is the season of it,
Alice Amory.
-"Capt. Dave Numana, Of the PUTS
tribe Of Indians, was a visitor in San
q a