The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-08-18
THE W0MRN
OF FRSHION.

New York. Aug. lit Is almost au-
tumn and we ask. even II we get no an
swer. what are We going to wear? It
is simple guess-work as yet. in spite OF
dissertations from people gifted in the
art OF setting forth the unkno~able.
And yet guess-wOrk is not 10 be de-
spised altogether. Fashion works along
certain lines and one has only to follow
the trend Of her tendencies to get
somewhere. whether she may or may
not follow.
Bearing in mind this principle. it is
reasonably safe TO get interested in
Louis XVI. All the New York de-
signers who are going to Paris to study
and TO evolve models are being sent to
Versailles TO sit down before the old pic
lures of the bouffant skirts. the pointed
waists. the sashes and the hchus worn
by the unhappy queen and her ladies,
when they shut so Intellectually the gates
of Trianon on the sound of the ap-
| preaching revolution. Without waiting
/ for the verdict of the designers the
sashes and fichus have been accepted
and some OF the trOuSseaus already in
/ preparation for early autumn marriages
show a very considerable faith in the
| coming empire of smaller sleeves, basque
/ effects and skirts that are full over the
hips.
The dress, for instance. in which Miss
| Edith Minturn will travel across the
continent after her wedding with Mr..
/ Isaac Newton Phelps Stokes is of duh
| green wool and hecked with warm red
here and there 1t is, Furthermore, very
interesting example of the hesitancy be-
/ tween the reigning styles and the styles
| that are expected to reign for the skirt
| is slightly frilled over the hips and yet,
! like the spring skirt and the summer
/ skirt, IL flares toward the hem. 1t is a fit
/ ted basque with a point in front and one
behind. Instead of the soft surplice
corsage without which a dressmaker
hardly knows how to dressmake it has
an elaborate braided yoke in red and
green. There are rather small gigot
sleeves, but the real novelty of the out
fit is the jacket which is very short.
close-ftting in the back, but loose and
double-breasted in front, with narrow
revers and several rows of smoky pearl
buttons set with gold rims.
Another going away dress" this time
for very youthful blonde whose marriage
will be one Of Newport's sensations in
| September. IS Of shot green and blue cloth
| with skirt that takes less cloth than the
! modists have been using, though ii is so
full over the hips that to get the result
aimed at godet hip panels have been set
| in. These panels are fastened down with
| pearl buttons, otherwise the skirt is un-
| trimmed The waist is a tiny pointed bod
| Ice, with a loose front of silk shot with
green and blue The choker is a straight
silk band, and the sleeves are just mod
| erately full, with lace ruffles falling over
the lower arm.
1t usually happens that one knows about
| hats before one knows about gowns Some
Of Load fr,er IfraV haN na-lxr
models from Paris, and to tell about them
| sounds as IL one were taking the descrip-
ton from the costume of the Queens
Necklace" where the toilettes were those
worn by Marie Antoinette in her gayest
/ A hat ordered by Mrs George Gould for
the coming fall is of fine yellowish straw
bent down over the face, turned up sharp
ly in the back and with piquant folds and
| convolutions on the sides. The crown is
rather low and about il is a plating of
black lace and white velvet, standing up
like a coronet, tied with crimson ribbon
figured Dresden fashion in white and
| black knotted behind in a big bow. Fine
crimson flowers are fastened under the
brim and droop, like blood red tassels over
the hair.
Another model for later wear, when the
| leaves have dropped and the air gets its
autumnal chill, is of black velvet with one
side close against the face and the other
| carelessly crumpled to suit the bright, ir-
! regular features of a typical American
beauty who almost always has a slight
ly tip tilted nose and a saucy chin. Small
| pink chrysanthemums are pinned inside
against the front hair, and a coronal of
black ostrich feathers is tied about the TIL
ling crown with a huge bow of chrysan-
themum pink ribbon.
But what is called the Marie Antoinette
shape and promises to be the leading now
city for months to come is a poke of fine
/ xryftl, CHI oalr fera CT
crown An unaccountable number of lit
tie bows of black ribbon arranged in
lows is the trimming for one of the newest
OF these experiments, together with a hot
of nodding black plumes. A hat like this
looks a century old, but it is very, very
fin de steele.
Levi p Morton's eldest daughter has a
Marie Antoinette hat rather more sum-
merry in effect and meant for wear in late
August. Itsis a quaint affair of White
braided straw, trimmed with white satin
ribbon bows and black ostrich tips fas-
tened with paste buckles. To go with it is
a dress Of white yelling with large black
chenille spots, wide collar and wide ribbon
sash with large square bows
So far as one can now see the fall colors
will be golden brown. French blue, TAM
! black and white, with an occasional knot
! of yellow and green Silk blouses cannot
go out at once, there are always women
who will have them. The newest have felt
already the ground swell of fashion and
are made with Louis XVI. bows A very
| pretty one IS of chameleon taffeta, show
ing blue, red or brown as the light happens
TO shine. II has a broad red ribbon start
/ ing from under each arm and tied across
the bosom in large square Louis XVI.
bow. The belt of similar ribbon has just
such another bow behind Rhinestone
buckles fasten both, and the round neck is
| finished with a silk frill in knife plaits
drawn through buckle under the chin.
Velvet blouses are being made with fur
and Jet trimmings. but these are hideous
| except for very slender women. There are
| even Marie Antoinette blouses, which are
less full than others, but are made with
collar and belt of the silk and big plated
| fichu.
But 1T is in evening dress that last CEN
tury modes will tell to the best advantage
Large figured satin brocades are on the
1 market and the dresses into which they
will be cut are to have full circular skirts
for the proper glorification of the design
Such skirt calls for a fitted satin bodice
cut low, pointed at the waist and yelled
across the shoulders with a costly lace
1 fichu.