The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-02-12

CT to build the hall. If a mathematic-
 ian you would calculate how many
 times over all the buildings of Yale col
 lege could be constructed of the stone
 still visible: and you may wonder al
 the power of their fellow men of the
 kings who forced others to erect living
 mountains to their selfish memories
 but so far as the impression of hypos-
 tile hall is concerned, you might as well
 be in the crypt of Center church, or in
 the basement of the Hartford state
 house.
 People are disappointed because they
 don't see what they expected to see;
 they don't feel what they anticipated feeling. They see enough; but what
 they see is dead; dead stones, not liv-
 ing architecture. There is no unity of
 impression left, A newspaper letter is hardly the place to draw out and make l clear the difference between the ruin of l an Egyptian temple and the equally | ruinous ruin of Greek temple and the reason why the latter still lives glor- l iously; but come to the mechanics | course of lectures one of these days and hear the matter made perfectly evil dent.
 It is a hard journey up the Nile. Boats are small and crowded. Food is poor. Staterooms are small. Bunks are l uncomfortably narrow and at just the wrong height Navigation is so diff l cult that the boats must stop at night. So it takes twice as long as you think it should. Most of the way the scenery is monotonous, dull, stupid. At night you may be moored alongside a filthy village and the dust and the odors of it may be blown into your cabin. It is hard work to keep good natured. Your fellow sufferers find it quite as difficult as you do. You are squeezed up against them at dinner The table is narrow. You see all their disagreeable features, and they yours. There are no prospects of a storm to keep them in their bunks There is no interest in the days sun. The monotony grows unendurable. How so many people stand it without fisti- cuffs is a wonder. As a matter of fact many give up at Apiont, and many at Luxor There are a dozen people in this hotel who have resolved to go no further in the boat that brought them thus far, for fear that another day of the same people would result in blood shed. As change of boat costs an ad- ditional ten per cent. of the fare, you can imagine how profitable to Cook is misery; and it is a fair supposition that he cultivates 1t.
 By the by, all the Cook Egyptian pos sessions have lately been capitalized at 900 and turned over into a stock company.
 When the railroad has been extended to the first cataract and hotels have been erected at convenient distances, Egypt will be far more attractive. As it is, those who cannot afford their own dhahabiyehs, or who are so interested in Egyptology as to be patient under all things, had better stay away. In Italy, when tired of ruins, you may turn to pictures and to medieval churches. Here, there are nothing but l ruins, and the notable ones are few in l number and very far apart. In Greece, l beauty inspired and Is still delightfully."- 1 evident Here there Is no beauty. Not | even variety. One temple is like an l other Statues vary so little, that the l variety escapes casual observation. The | paintings and carvings on temple walls | are so monotonous: the same themes, | scenes, groupings, and figures, so iden- | tical; that they must have been done | wholesale by contractors and by some | substitute for modern machinery. Hier oglyphics, with painful monotony, pa rade the prowess of cowardly kings, assume the divinity of contemptible princes and enumerate the impossible virtues of peculating officials. The rec Se4 f,ft ba toY q tiroEo111n IfcfS of boastful lies. Even when the dead is about to be weighed by Anubis in the hall of Osires, he does not give over his boasting, but proclaims the possession of feigned virtues. As if even an Egyp- tian god could not have seen through such flimsy hypocrisy. Not a confes- sion of sin, not an expression of humil- ity, not a note of contrition, is of rec ord. Rameses was as vain glorious as Ismail Pacha, and when opposing rec ords have been found and sifted, will be found to have been as contemptible.
 The view out on the river as the sun is setting is very strange. Colors are so strong that they are glaring. On the distant mountains the shadows are of deep indigo. The clouds are fringed with orange so red as to seem artificial, | while they are heavy with masses of darkest purple. The colors are not beautiful, they are so hard. Seen in picture you would accuse the artist of and of exaggera ton. They are the colors of a chromo. And when the sun is set how quickly comes bhe night. The dry air carries no soft twilight. A hard, ugly country. One would get out of it quickly.
 FERNANDEZ.
 The Discovery of Tenor.