Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-07-13

with tiny little flare at the wrists, and this filled in with fine lace. All the upper part of tho sleeve fits as tight as a jersey. One lady remarked to another that she thought those new sleeves were positively indecent. So far the only indication of the change VIC have seen over here is that the sleeves do not stand up as high as they have done, but owing to the stiff and flat shoulder pieces and caps they arc wider out than they were. Tho Louis XVI modes arc coming in, they say, and that means tight upper and flowing under sleeves. For myself, I shall be sorry to see the leg O mutton sleeve depart, for it has bean 0 boon in many ways. It makes a stout fig ure look slender by comparison, and the young and too slim girl manages to look perfect figure by its deceptive aid.
 There arc numbers of ways of draping the gigot sleeve, one of the latest being the muskmelon, where it lies in ridges as if nature had arranged the slices. It all de- ponds upon the way the plaits are laid in. The modus operandi cannot be explained, but the dressmaker can understand it by a reference to the pictures of the sleeves. There is ono consolation-it will be easier to cut the sleeves down to the smaller di- mensions than it has been to build them up.
 Waists are very ornate, but once in awhile one stumbles across a neat and com pact design that is immensely pleasing. One had a plain short basque finish with Q V vest of thin silk. This was gathered to sharp point, and on each side was pret- ty ornament of passomenteric, with steel beads The gown was gray and black cheviot. On the shoulders and across the bust there was more of the steel passemen- terie and more over tho coral pink vest
 The sleeves to this were gigots, and the folds were laid in deep and in such a way as to show broken lines.
 Other sleeves there are too numerous to mention, but I shall speak of two styles of sleeve in vogue for summer gowns. One has putfs with the fullness gathered up in places under funny little bows, with pert rabbit ear ends. There was a gown of polka dotted lavender sicil- cnnc, tho skirt plain and the sleeves with these upper balloonlikc putfs. The fore arm part had little frill of lace. The waist of tho dress was simply gathered, but over the bust therO was draped surplice fashion some very rich white lace. This was held together on tho shoulder by two fancy rhinestone pins, and another held the center of the bow at the bolt. The belt and bows were garnet colored. The lace extended below the bolt several inches in d jabot. The whole gown was dainty and summcry.
 Another curious if not beautiful pair of sleeves were appendages of tasteful sum- mer gown. This was of rose colored taffeta striped with black. Tho skirt was plain and quite long in the back, though not even a demitrain. There was a pocket in q comc-at able place, and on the open ing was a double shirring of maize silk muslin, with a TOW of wax pearls in the
 center. The waist was plain i'll the back, but down tho front thcro were one double and two single rows of shirred muslin,
 the center one having TOW of tho beads. Between each of the shirrings was q band of moss green velvet ribbon ending in loops top and bottom. The sleeves were complex affairs At the top were three
 rows of close shirring in sort of shell form to stand out like caps. The rest was | shirred lcngthwise and puffcd, and be-