The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-04

How frequently we hear men remark
that they greatly admire simplicity in
women's attire! And how frequently the
men comment on the hours wasted by US,
as they say lat our modiste's, imagining that
the subject of dress is sort of mild mania
with most women and shopping a genuine
delight!
Now were you to inquire exactly what
they mean by simplicity in dress nine
times out of ten they would suggest plain
tailor-made gown for the street and one Of
those little white muslin things, all frills,
for the evening. These can be made at
home they think.
Oh, the simplicity of men!
Let me explain that a good absolutely
plain, tailor-made dress cannot be made for
less than SIS; its whole charm consisting
in the quality of the cloth and the absolute
perfection of the fit and finish. The Innings
must be of silk. Then those dear little
frocks, all billowy muslin, or organdy with
lace-edged frills over their slips OF silk,
cost Just as much when they leave
madame's hands as the dainty silk gowns
of paIe-hued taffetas.
The time we frequently spend with our
dressmakers, or waiting for them to
appear, Is often wearing and aggravating;
but we must have patience, as with most
women a ruined garment is matter of
some moment.
AS for shopping it is frequently a SOL
emn, serious undertaking; a consultation
as to whether the particular fabric is still
in fashion, its price, what ornamentation
1t will require and the most appropriate
and becoming to be had. Ample funds
are conducive to much pleasure when pur-
chasing, and only occasionally, 1 am glad
to say, do we find a woman who is never
e. happy except when chattering about her
garments and whose idea of having good
time consists in rushing from one store to
another.
The question as to whether women dress
to please men or to eclipse one another has
never been answered in a satisfactory man.
ner Some women do dress simply to at
tract and crafty men; others do so from
spirit of rivalry, and some women assur-
edlv dress to please them selves. Loving
instinctively what is lovely and beautiful,
they would find it painful to wear mis-
fitting. ugly garments, and 1t is quite
unnecessary for any one to purchase glar-
ing, inartistic shades: Again, we do find
the woman who has the three Of these
objects in dress. This woman is naturally
q success. She does not always have
long purse, but she has q full and perfect
knowledge of herself. She never loses one
point OF vantage.
In England there is tendency to dress
sisters alike, because the Princesses Maude
and Victoria of Wales do so, and at very
grand garden party recently they appeared
in white organdies over rose pink silk,
with rose-colored sashes and white lace
hats with ostrich plumes of the same
shade. Very pretty gowns, should say,
but Tor my own part l would not advocate
such a fashion, even for Princesses, who do
not have to wear gown more than once,
as I believe in individuality in all things,
and if lacking in ones composition it IS
best to pay some one to supply 1t. Two
sisters here have lately worn delightful
gowns One of the gowns is of creamy
white barege, having small green silk roses
scattered over it. The skirt is extremely
full, lined with white taffeta. green
chameleon silk ruffle, changing to cream,
about ten inches wide edges the skirt.
The barege waist over silk has lace
pouch-like vest. The stock with large
bow in the back is. of the chameleon silk.
The sleeves are very full and have deep
cuff of the silk edged with butter-lace ex-
tending over the hands.
The elder sister has CONNECTION OF pale
gray crepon having a rounded yoke OF
rose pink and green sequins embroidered
in black net over pale gray silk, From the
yoke falls net, forming a bloused effect.
a deep belt surrounds a rounded waist,
and this belt is also of pale gray silk, COW
cred with the sequined net. The sleeves
are beautiful, being treated in the same
way as the yoke. The skirt, ample and
graceful, shows. when slightly raised,
three ruffles of changeable silk, gray, merg
ing into old rose.
g. Nowadays we do not have our fans made
out Of the silk used for our gowns. They
must at least have painted on them the
flower or leaf which meanders over them,
unless we are the happy possessors of real
lace fans, which, fortunately, are always
correct. At very chic luncheon recently
given East the souvenirs were delicate
pearl-colored silk gauze fans, mounted on
smoked-pearl stick, painted most grace
fully, representing the flowers used to dec
crate the table.
The gigantic fan is now provided with
handle. exactly similar to that of an UNI
brella, and by means of which it is inter
posed between the holders face and the
suns rays, as the handle is adjustable and
shaped like a cane, to be carried in the
hand The fan when detached therefrom
can be used in the way We understand SO
well. and it is said not to be by any means
too large on very warm day.
Cupid has been having it pretty much
his own way lately, and as natural result
numerous Will be the engagements an
nounced ere long, and more than one army
girl is on the list They will make lovely
brides. And mentioning brides reminds
me that the most fashionable have been
wearing during the past month white
satin trimmed with either lace or mousse
line de soie The trained skirts are not
made quite so long this season, being only
about two and a half yards in length at
the back from the waist and mounted at
the waist in wide boxpleats forming godets
in descending held in about half way with
an elastic to keep them in form and place.
Several have worn entire wells of rare lace,
family heirlooms generally.
Among the most appropriate gifts for
brides are the very fashionable porte
monnaies framedEin gold, simply or or
nately, few having the fastening set with