New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-11-24

are built Of the brocade and opened on the upper
part of the arm 10 show peated panel of pink
mousseline de sole. The edges of the brocade are
bordered by a ruche of the mousselinc de sole and
the opening Is closed by lacings of narrow black
velvet ribbon.
one can imagine Her Royal Hghness wearing
with this corsage black velvet collar with
iewelled clasp and slides for the touch of black In
the costume is very pretty and characteristic OF the
Louis XIV period TO which the gown Is supposed
10 belong The Jacket effect Is obtained by the
revcrs and side pieces that border the box peat ana
make little godets on TIE skirt
The skirt is cut with straight apron front bor-
dered by iabots of lace and the heavy silk is peaed
into short circular train. All Of the lnianta
evening gowns are cut On train
Another fancy pink brocaded silk is made blouse
fashion, with a very high embroidered belt oil cloth
of gold The sleeves are of green velvet ana there
are green revers turning away from the decol-
Ietace and edged with lace and embroidery. There
is a panel OF the green, embroidered ana lace
edged down each side Of the skirt These panels
are several inches wide at the hem and narrow 20
a point at the waist line
Another pink silk has spashes Of turquoise blue
in f. and has embroidered tabs about the low neck
The paftern OF the embroidery. which is done In
beads silk and palcttes. resembles the pattern IN
the silk This practically has no sleeves
but a drapery of exquisite yellow lace covers the
top Of the arm. 81,
a silk brocade in a pale yeowish shade Of green.
The fitted cor5agc reveals the figure and covers the
wais; line so as to dispense with a belt. Ii IS cut
bIb-fash.on. and shows both front and back tiny
pointed piece os the silk brocade the corsage Itself
bcIng of the silver. The sleeves are merely shoul-
der straps for there is great choice In sleeves
now as these gowns would seem TO illustrate.
The front of the skirt Is of silk with the long
train OF the silver brocade. All the silver Is Dor
dered by "A dainty rich embroidery. The combination
of silver and the peculiar shade OF green in this
gown is very charming but It's effectiveness Is
largely due to the richness OF the materials used.
There is 50 much discussion going on now In re-
gard to sleeves that before continuing with the
description OF the other gowns it may be well TO
state what this house Is doing I'm regard TO this
important point. They are making none OF the eX-
IRENE sleeves Of last season; their sleeves may be
described as decidedly moderate now, and they look
forward 70 decreasing them further during the
coming OF course, even the moderate sleeve
would be termed large. full sleeve" by many. but
fl s n very different thing from the abnormal crea-
ton worn IN the spring. IL Is possible that we may
not see the plain tight sleeve again for many years
but the tendency has certainly set in that direction
on evening gowns they are making every possible
style Of Sleeve except the big stinened balloon af-
fair The fun elbow sleeves have the stun laid In
soft folds. and II there IS any extra stifenng II Is
most carefully concealed. II one looks over old
fashion plates she will see how gradually we APP
preached the balloon sleeve ana through how many
stages of evolution II passed before 1t reached the
largest size in 1894 and the early part of 1885
From the beginning of the century up TO about 1895
some form OF the large full sleeve In
1880 there was a sleeve introduced in cut not unlike
the ggot sleeve OF to-day. but somewhat smaller.
There was also the enormous balloon sleeve reach
ing from the shoulder 10 wrs: that was very com
mon. but the prettiest sleeve in then
ranged In three large puffs The large sleeve then
was by means the complicated affair 1t proved
TO be on It's recent revival
After 1896 the sleeve grew decidedly smaller and
the trimming fell down toward the elbows. Shout
der very long and fiat There was an
attempt 10 introduce very tight sleeve as early
lsi5. but as a rule the moderate sleeve very fiat
the shoulders worn for n great many years
The ordinary coat sleeve appeared in 1870. and for
the next fifteen years sleeves steadily grew smaller
and lighter. The big sleeve appeared In 1858. and
It's history since then all remember. We seem to
have repeated now every sign which led 10 the d.
minution OF the sleeve in the carly par, az tho
century
But to return TO the last OF the Infanta's
gowns and by far the most interesting II is
OF white satin. with "a long court train and short
fitted pointed bodice The whole gown Ii trimmed
indeed, almost covered. with priceless point dAlcn-
con. The apron Is the Infanta's bridal veil and was
once the property OF orleans Queen OF France.
the wife OF Louis Philippe. II Is beautiful specimen
OF the modern point Alencon. made at a time when