The herald., 1895-02-10

used to pin down the one side of the hair
when u side parting is adopted, as it very
frequently is in the evening. This is not
a very decided side parting, but merely
sufficient to procure little jaunty effect,
and to afford an excuse for the use of the
topcomb, which is a Renaissance of the
beginning of the century,
y new blouse just >created by Felix has
much to recommend it. The material was
a black ondine silk, pin spotted, with
satin, made with an added box pleat on
either side, full overhanging front
fullness at the top, gathered four
times Oh the outside and set out
over a thin but firm muslin ling. The
mention of this blouse calls to mind the
question Of box pleats. They are extreme
~ popular for bodice decorations, as well
in Paris as on this side of the water, and
are for the most part arranged separately.
In the French capital the overhanging
bodice is said to be at the zenith of its
success. The latter is, to most minds, a
significant fact, and one that we shall do
well to note.
With a decollette bodice, ribbon and
velvet throatlets are once again worn. the
newest being tied at the back in out
spreading bows, and ornamented in front
with jeweled stars and crescents. The
possessors of long, slender throats find
this mode undeniably becoming, but it is
doubtful as to the propriety of those more
well favored adopting it. Fashion still
DEGREES that our evening shoes shall
match our gowns, and insists that we
wear gloves wrinkled in unequal burrows
from the wrist to Just beyond the elbows.
There is no doubt that for indoor wear,
for all purposes but for walking and prom
enades, long trains will become more and
more fashionable. Now that skirts are so
wide, heavy 'dumpy" effect is given to
the finest figures, and a long train helps to
4. H. t.x1- LII
fine effect can be obtained by commence
ing the train with the opening box leats
which need very careful adjustment To
still further increase the width, a small
tablier of some sort is often introduced,
like double series of festoons in Jet and
spangles, from the waist to the lower edge.
With such skirt some ladies have
seamless bodice, with a festoon plastron,
similar to the decoration of the skirt.
A gown of beige velvet has the trained
skirt edged with sable. A panel runs
down the front, of pale green satin, COW
gold spangles. The velvet bodice, seam
less, fits the waist in front with few
pleats, the back being stretched. The
satin and festoons form plastron. The
velvet sleeve, beautifully draped, termin-
ates at the elbow, above a tight sleeve OF
embroidered satin. The dress is a fair ex-
ample of numbers which are being turned
out by tirst-class couturieres and couturi-
ers. 1t is, perhaps, needless to add that
they are anything but moderate in price.
The better the velvet, the better the skirt
hangs and the more sheeny the surface.
No trimming for outside dresses is now
considered perfect without fur in som e
shape. Cloth costumes are largely adopt
ed for ordinary walking occasions, and
trimmed with bands of the same, bord-
cred on each side with fur, or a stripe of
narrow passementerie is used instead of
cloth. Length-way finishes of fur are just
as fashionable as other materials, and the
effect is often increased on high bodices
by arranging the fur in narrow rolls or
stripes of different lengths ending in
bright pendants and rosettes of rib
bons. We have seen this style
carried out charmingly also on dress
skirts Stripes of fur whether put ON in
the length or width are interrupted in
some way, and an elegant toilette of pre-
lat cloth cloth in rather dull shade is
ornamented with dark fur and silver
braiding.
Girls dresses, pelisses, coats and circu-
lar capes are always ornamented with mar
row stripes or rolls of fur, and even hoods
for babies are edged with the same.