Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-08-10
again and again. to realize some part of
the truth


the truth.
The River.
Hance's river camp is reached by noon.
and what had seemed a little ribbon Of
water. viewed from the rim, becomes q
rushing, roaring river. the huge rocks In
midstream throwing the spray twenty feet
in the air, and the roar is SO great that
shouting is necessary in order to be heard.
The little open space is hemmed in on all
sides by many-colored towering walls, which
seem to be melting in the fierce. pitiless
Ing hot and is like live Goals to walk upon
Such thirst! In spite of the warning of
Capt. Hance, one cupful after another Of
the yellow water Is eagerly swallowed, al
save that of wetness.
The captain has a good camp outfit, and
in very few moments has a good lulch
ready. He prides himself on a particular
brew Of tea, which he calls "double-breast-
ed tea" and it is to be said of it that those
who have tasted it there on the banks of
the Colorado have at last drunk the nectar
Of the gods and go forth into the world
bound together with deep and lasting tie
of good fellowship and understanding.
The return trip to camp may be made
the same day, in which case the stay at
the river Is limited to an hour. A more
satisfactory trip Is to continue down the
river crossing 1t and camping on the ether
side. There are some extraordinary cliff
dwellings some twenty miles down the r1v-
er and an Indian village at the foot OF
Bright Angel trail, some thirty miles be-
low Hances, by way Of which the return
Is made to camp on the rim.
Moran's point Is the objective point Of
one of many rides along the rim. From
this point Thomas Moran painted his ia
nous picture of the Grand canon, and the
most extensive view is to be had from 1t.
The canon at this point is twenty-five miles
wide, and the views up and down comprise
mil
light that distances are very deceptive.
San Francisco peak seems to be but twenty
miles off, as one looks back across the sea
Of green pine forest, instead OF eighty
miles, the real distance.
From All Over the World.
The canon is visited every season by a
goodly number Of foreigners and travellers
from all over the world, and during the
worlds fair year the ratio was two for
eigners to one American visitor. Columns
of description were written about it in
German and French journals, ana Ameri-
cans came in for general scoring on ac-
count Of their indifference and lack OF
Knowledge Of its Whereabouts even. But
every year shows an increase of travel, and
it will in time take it's proper place as a
great American shrine.
A party of surveyors have lately been
over the stage road, and there is to be an
electric road from Flagstaff 10 the canon
In the near future. But while that inn
provement will increase the travel, it will
never have the charm and interest of the
stage journey.
The best time of year for the trip is in
September and October. Just after the
Arizona rainy season. which is In July and
August the country looks it's best and the
dust is laid The season closes by the mid
die Of November on account of the snow,
which falls to the depth of ten to twenty
feet on the rim Of the canon, while at the
river 1t remains at summer temperature.
The country for miles about abounds in
interesting and unique features, and a
month spent, at the canon would afford a
series of extraordinary adventures. Tx.