The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1895-02-10
TO BIZ SEEN
THIS SPRING.

Violet velvet and fawn are among the
combinations which will be much seen
this spring, and some OF the trimmings
even on cloth will be braidings and APP
pliques in silk, satin and jet, on a coarse
net foundation, set in the thicker material.
Many of the black summer Jackets in cloth
and fine wooden will have silk sleeves of a
new make of glace striped and spotted, en-
ployed also for the collars, which are often
carried down in long straight reverses on
either side of the front
In Paris the fashionable dressmakers are
sending out tea gowns in quite different
style, they are cut, skirt and bodice in one,
at the back, fitting into the waist like a
redingote and have turned back cuffs like
gentleman'S dressing gown. The filled
in plastron falls to the feet. and the waist
is confined with very long scarf of Indian
silk or moussel1ne de sole. 1t is tied at the
side with two loops, which stand up against
the bodice, and the two long ends fall to the
hem of the robe.
Worth is cutting his new visiting gowns
EN- prineesse, often with velvet trains One
beautiful dress has a royal blue velvet
train, with tabller formed OF lace squares,
one point overlapping the other The
bodice is fastened at the waist by ruffies of
narrow velvet ribbon; on each side of
these rufies are two large filigree silver
buttons. The large velvet sleeves have
similar buttons on the cuffs
Crepon will be the dominant material of
the coming season, but will differ in many
respects from that of last year, for it is
crimped in totally different way, holder
and larger in design in some examples,
while in others it is more after the nature
of bubbles. Indeed, crepe cabochons show
series of spots in relief, which cover the
entire material, and are to be had in vari-
Gus sizes, from the small wafer to the
large pin. In Paris the frosted crepon is
now the latest style, but it is not SO DUR
able as the other kinds, for the pretty
light silk lines introduced on the surface
are easily pulled apart from the rest. 1t is
made of all colors and of all varieties. One
of the prettiest of all the crepons has a de-
sign like crows feet, the tricot patterns
being transparent. Among the colors
which will be worn under them and alone
are the exact shade of dark sugar, lighter
tones of blue and many tints of green
Cream lace collars, fashioned like yoke
of heavy lace, with frill of a lighter kind,
having design also in thick outstanding
patterns, are to be Worn as much as ever.
Paste ornaments to resemble diamonds
appear on many of the new hats and bon
nets, and one OF the features in millinery
must have been inspired by Egyptian de-
signs. 1t is called "a comb and is in
serted on either side of the back of the
bonnet. 1t is wide at the top and narrow
at the base, with rows of cut jet carried
across it.
Milliners will also use great deal of
new ribbon net with silk edges and tiny
spots all over it, and nearly all the bonnets
and hats will have tassels of either flowers
or pleated chiffon introduced under the
brim to fill up the space between the hair
and the hat. Roses we're never more in
demand. Gold aigrettes are also much
used.
The best wells to wear have light sprays
and spots on clear ground, and greatly
improve the appearance of a poor COM
plexion.
Fancy fans are very popular, and are to
be had in feathers tufted with blossoms
or tiny curls of contrasting ostrich tips,
and ribbon fans in all the new colors to
match or harmonic with the dress.
Flowers are to be much used to trim
evening gowns.
There is a new button made apparently
of twisted wire, with large stone ball in
the center.
The Jet and other handsome trimmings,
which will soon be used, have nearly all
some indication of festoon. which is in
tended to be carried alike round skirts and
capes. A great deal of narrow Jet gallon
will be used, some fringed. Many of the
narrow trimmings have larger cabochons
than ever.
The new satin bead which resembles
dull Jet, slightly frightened, is nearly al
ways of an arched form to intermix with
the glittering jet.