Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-08-10


Still another variety of the cutaway is
the new two-button coat, whose general
features will be similar to the business
cusaway, the fronts being more cut away.
About Trousers.
We cannot, of course, foresee the effect
OF the popularity of the bicycle on the de-
velopment Of the American male calf, the
beauty Of which the tailors whom we have
spoken to on the subject declare to be I'M
speskable. But am most assuredly tread
Ing on safe ground in asserting that during
the coming winter season, at all events,
the well-dressed men Of this country will
not go about the streets or to theaters or
to their clubs in a pair of wool or silken
hose. This I assert without prejudice, for
my own limbs are above reproach, in spite
OF the published determination of some
misguided youths to force the knickerbock-
er issue. have the greatest respect for
our old families, but I cannot go behind
the tailors. Trousers will still be worn!
That Is the carefully considered verdict
OF those who are ION the inside'-of the
subject, not of the trousers. Their style
this season will show somewhat of a 1nodi-
ncatlon OF the pegtop tendency prevailing
Tor the last twelve months The extremely
narrow bottom has not found very genera,
favor and will give place to medium
widths. Trousers for formal wear in the
daytime and those for evening dress will
be cut a trifie narrower than those for
ordinary use, but nineteen inches at the
knee and seventeen inches at the bottom
will be about the average measures. They
will be cut to fit easily over the hips and
Will hang in as straight lines as possible
to the bottom, and no ankle spring will be
tolerated.
the majority during the winter months,
and some tailors say they will be made
with collar, and some without. This is
really question Of Individual taste, and
not fyy1a
cutaway coats the notch collar will be the
moro popular style, and, indeed with a
frock it will be quite allowable to wear a
double-breasted vest. Every man with
fancy vests. Such men as Larry" Kip,
Perry Belmont and George Vanderbilt are
pretty safe to follow in matter of this
kind. and they consider the colored vest
as essential to properly equipped ward
robe. They will generally be of dark
grounds relieved with small figures or dots
in colors. and will usually though not
exclusively. be double breasted. Vests of
white figured silk or Marselles will be
much worn with evening dress.
Evening Dress.
Good form ordains the DOMINIC of con-
ventional evening dress with the lighting
of the candles. The peaked lapel style of
coat will be more popular this winter than
the shawl roll for evening wear, and the
skirts will continue to be long and spike
tailed, though rather less pointed than
during last winter. The phrase, Solemn
suits of customary black will still ac-
curately describe evening costume as The
attempt at the color innovation has been
given up for the present. The shield shape
effect will continue to be fashionable for
Doth coats and vests, and 1t is probable
that velvet collars will be worn by the
most extreme dressers and the lapels will
be covered with silk to the edge, whether
the collars be of silk or velvet. Conserya-
tive dressers will wear collar of cloth
ana nave the lapel facing reach only to the
buttonhole, and that style will be quite
allowable and is certainly in good taste
Materials for evening dress will invariably
be of soft-finished, dull-faced goods such
as unfinished worsteds or very fine yicunas.
and anything with a glossy finish will be
strictly tabooed. Trousers will usually be
hnlshed with a couple of rows of silk braid
or cord.
The Stylish Overcoats.
The subject of overcoats is perhaps the
most attractive connected with mems win
ter fashions and this year will see several
departures from the styles that have pre-
vailed for several seasons. Until very cold
weather arrives the covert coat, which was
so popular wrap during the past spring,
will continue to be worn largely, though
not large, for its proportions have been
considerably curtailed. This coat is well
adapted to slight, athletic figures, and has
become great favorite in this country,
but the mistake is often made of having it
cut too long. 1t should never be longer
than just sufficient to cover a sack coat
and it is the worst of form to wear it over
cutaway or evening dress coat, leaving
three or four inches of black tails exposed
to view.
The fashionable autumn overcoat par ex-
celle1ce will be the Chesterfield or fly front
oversack, which will appear in variety of
Uar of o.fyH
fngs, such as browns, olives and Oxford
grays and blendings of these colors This
coat should be made to define the figure
without following its outline too closely,
silk faced to the edges. Usual lengths will
be forty to forty-two inches. For regular
winter weather, this same style of coat,
but made Of much heavier materials, will
continue to be the fayorite of those who
Like to combine elegance with comfort. In
stead of being faced with silk, however, the
fronts will be faced with the cloth, and the
collar will be CT velvet in many cases. The
back will be cut straighter, hanging from
the shoulders with a half-box effect, and
the length will average two inches more
than for fall wear. The surtout, or frock
overcoat. promises to be much in evidence
and In the new form 1t has assumed in the
hands of some of the most prominent
tailors will certainly be very stylish outer
garment. A handsome shawl roll collar of
estrakhan or some other fur will replace
fastenings will be three silk frogs instead
of the commonplace buttons and button
holes. 1t will usually be about forty-six
riches long, with a waist length of about |
eighteen and half inches If a man pre-
fers double-breasted overcoat instead of J
Chesterfield, fashion says he can have |
1t. 1t will be made semi-loose fitting, and
will be cut straight in the back, without
the exaggerated bell or fare of the Anglo
maniacal box boat.
There is new wrap. and a most grace
full one. to wear over evening dress. The |
Inverness will, of course, continue to be an |
eminently correct outer garment, but in
extremely cold weather it is scarcely |
sufficient protection, and the long, warm
and gracefully draping Spanish mantle,
which is shown in the accompanying illus |
tration. seems to meet the case thorough
ly, IS 1t can with slight movement of the |
arms be wrapped closely around the body, |
thus reducing to a minimum the danger Of !
catching cold after leaving the heated |
theater or ball room.
Sailor Hat Bands.
To be quite up to date. the summer girl |
must supply herself with sailor hats ga