New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-11-17

cook long enough puts coal on top and browns IL
list rich brown. It mustn't be yaller, needer too
black. 1t must be list betwixt and between.
"Are the potatoes boiled before You mix your
pone. auntie?'
boil? Is dat what you AK me. honey? Boil, and
mash I'D. YOU mean? Gracious no. chile! You
takes de raw 'taters and CRATES EN- fine and meay
and you mustn't mix it too thin or too thick. DAT
is how you make pone; when de taters Is DON anu
mash dat amt nothin' tall but custard Ike you
was gwne make custard pie
The gumbo which occupies such conspicuous
Mace on the menu Of the Atlanta kitchen, however.
Aunt Nina would stew on the stove The Vegeta-
HES which compose it she would pare. cut and
carve with pa!nstaklng exactness The meat "ouid
be cut into strips and squares OF exact iehg'h ana
thickness The silver-skinned onions "ouId Dc
drowned with the meat to an extra tint OF golden
brown The okra pods would be sliced down ana
across and cut into regular. dicelike pieces. The
beans would all be OF a certain maturity. and the
tomatoes pared cut up and boiled to just the
right degree before the various ingredients were
compounded with the other
The making OF the famous gumbo is an all-the-
morning task, not to be undertaken In any need
less and inconsequent frame OF mind.
OF the coffee served in the kitchen the French
nrocess Of making Is too we'll known to dilate
upon but for delicate favor, subtle strength pure
color and tempting aroma It excels most OF that
popular beverage served throughout the Union
and equals the best in the world.
Who but Southern cook ebon-faced and to the
manner born knows how to prepare beef la
mode as It should be prepared, giving two days
thought TO the subtle process? Who else knows how
to smother the wild duck. or yet wilder marsh
hen in a medley OF herbs and seasonings. stewing
subtly vet half-bakng with slow ins!stence until
the result would tempt the most satlated OF cpl
cures?
Who but Southern cook conglomerate rice
and peas in marvellous fashion. and contrlve the
IA orlte and nondescrlpt dish known az hopping
'''I Il tried to make that dish once" said Northern
housekeeper and IT was s1unshy and messy ana ana
South wa, delightful The grains Of rice and the
peas stood apart yet together as II were the pT nd
lie whole was seasoned with savory bacon"
Tomato paw compounted with rice and ham or or
undue grease in It's prsparaso9 Is another TRUMP ai
Of 10 o. he sepps ome.
kindred dishes made from the mead and feet OF
s aIsds' sissncant Of perfection and precision IN
their connection and wonderful possbiiitss n the
eGGsS a. the he" negroes express it, with peculiar
twang on the last word. and A look OF unutterabs
susto on sheis fssfs; are not the lea" OF these
' The younger coIored cooks produced since the
prosssor. in culinary art eu; the genuine
loves cooking for It's sake, and. after expert
and receipts Of her own In the old centres OF South
domestIcity IN those cities Witch yet sihere to
Of the new there yet exist cooks well In years.
who insist upon cooking In a fireplace with simple
and primitive utensils These hold that vands so
cooked boast a delicacy OF favor and aroma not
possible when a stove Is used
certain "mommer' | call to mind regards with
unconcea!ed sympathy the members OF her mis-
tress's household who, for any reason. have been
away and consequently have Deen compelled TO eat
''stove-cooked" food She Immediately sets to work
, 20 prfaIs se F rsvens N sookns he
never happier than when manipulating pots Ians
though. and only purses w her lips and looks mys-