Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-09-30
GARMENTS FOR MEN
What the Correct Thing" Will Be in
Autumn and Winter Clothing.
Innovations Arc Mnny-Fivc Different
Styles Of Overconts-outing
Suits In Demand.
From the New York Herald.

year that all important knowledge has beeh
delayed till the present week. The reason
is that fashionable people remain longer
out of town-by the seashore or in the
mountains-than they used to do, and hence
the delay in arriving at the new styles for
autumn and winter. 1t is only few Gays
since the new fashions, or rather specimens
OF them, were put on view by the Merchant
Tailors' Exchange. There are some re-
markable Innovations.
The evening dress coat is made of the I'M
finished worsted in black. The tendency is
for less rough materials. The style is GER
tainly favoring the peaked lapel instead of
the rolling collar The collar and lapel will
be of satin Or silk. The length recedes
slightly. For five-foot nine-inch figures the
length is .hirty-aine inches. The outline OF
the front follows the waistcoat in the curve
of the opening. rhe cuffs should be made
to button three buttons
The dinner coat, called by some the Tux
edo, and abroad known us the Cowes.
from the famous yachting resort, seems to
have come to stay. Its purpose is indicated
by its Eame-for use ut the dinner table on
informal occasions and for use also at the
country club. Its use is deprecated as a
substitute for the evening coat
The dress wetStcoat Is made OF cloth SINH
lar to the dress coat, except where white is
worn. when the pique or Marseilles is the
correct material
The dress trousers are somewhat smaller
from the knee down-that is, from IS wide
at the knee to l61a at the bottom. Velvet
braid is used in the seams.
The tie with the dress suit should be of
white linen, the made-up article being dis
carded as bad form.
Frock and Getaway.
The frock coat is certainly not discounted
as the garment for afternoon wear, and in
the coming season it will dispiace the cut
away for that purpose, and also for noon
weddings, five O'Clock teas, and SO on. The
new frock coat will recede somewhat in
length. For the five-foot nine-inch figure
forty inches is considered the correct
length. 1. is cut less bulky at the front,
and especially so at the waist. This en-
ables the owner to wear it open wheh he
chooses. The material is lambs wool, vicu-
mas, unfinished VOL sted, the weave chang
ing from the imperceptibfe herring bone to
the diamond effect. Black Oxford and dark
mixtures and brown and olives are con-
sidered correct, black predominating.
The waistcoat with the frock coat will be
cut double breasted to a great extent
The material for trousers with this gar
ment will be principally of the wool finishes.
| in contradistnction to the wool worsted
finishes. The wool finish is the correct
thing to go with this coat.
The cutaway coat will hold its own. 1t
will be worn this season as in the mast.
The length however, will recede consider
ably thirty-four inches for the five-foot
| nine-inch figure being the correct thing.
Three buttons are to be buttoned at the
front. The tendency is to cut away less
this year than in previous years. The
length of the sack coat will be thirty-one
inches.
The business suit for office or business
wear or travelling purposes has undergone
some notifications. The sack coat will
naturally be the favorite garment, although
| the morning coat with flaps. partaking
somewhat of the English shooting coat in
! style. will be made up largely. Its advan-
tage consists in its roomy pockets, which
the business man and travelling public ap-
preciate. and by them the sack coat has
been worn exclusively for many years. The
sack coat will supersede the morning coat
for the purposes mentioned. The materials
used vary from the large plaid in the Har-
ris tweed and homesruns to the soft-finish-
ed lambs wool and Scotch suitings. The
preference, however, is given to all soft
surfaced materials.
Tie leading colors are the Lovatt ma
terials in different heather shades and the
green's ano olives. the brown plaids and
large desgl having the preference over the
stripes which in the broad designs are es-
sentially suitable for trousers.
Overconts.
A really fashionable man must this year
have five overcoats. The great variety was
indicated in the merchant tailors' exhibit.
| First. there is the ever fashionable Chester
field, cut in single or double-breaste1 style
and made up principally in West of Eng
| land beavers and metops. This season will
see it made up chiefly in the blue-back and
| dark blue. 1t will have many mixtures of
| browns and olives. Velvet collars will be
worn, but for the cuffs velvet is passe. For
the five-foot nine-inch figure the Chester
| field will beNcut forty-four inches.
The paletot is made up of soft finish ma
| terial either vicuna, lambs wool or beaver.
| This garment. considered suitable for wear
over the DIRE IS suit will be cut well to the
| figure, extending forty-eight or fifty inches
| in length. All bindings or edgings will be
avoided in the finishing of overcoats.
he
purposes the surtout will be in vogue to a
great extent this season. The materials
used will De the angolas and West of Eng
land beaver, dark browns and olives being
employed.
The long coaching coat which is made Of
| iron-gray cloth to a great extent, Will be
| made up in the striped seams. with cloth or
velvet collars and less cloth cuffs, and will
| have the sleeve protector extending to the
wrist.
| In the fur-lined garment recommended for
use over the dress suit in winter, the ma
terial will be black West of England beaver
! the lining in mink and the collar and cuffs
| of beaver. or beaver Prussian, or sea otter.
Outing Suits.
The increase in outdoor sports has brought
to the front a great variety of sporting
STYLES For the hunt the scarlet or so-called
pink coat will be worn, and while the
singe-breasted cutaway is considered the
correct thing for club use. and the single
bi easted frock for the master of the hunt,
the latter style OF garment has been adopted
for more general use. The Tattersall waist
coat and white breeches complete the suit,
the moleskin being used for winter. For
park or class riding the melton cutaway is
used. This garment is cut with well-hol-
lowed skirt at waist seam; fancy waistcoat
and dark blue serge or whipcord trousers
with braid at side and patent-leather straps
at bottom complete this conventional cos
tune. For morning service the single breast
sack of brown whipcord or Bliss New
market tweed is the correct thing. The
hreeches are cut loose or baggy at hips and
hug the knee closely. and are finished with
combinations of cloth which extend to the
ankle the buttons finishing well in front.
Boots and leggings complete the outfit.
Outing suits have been very much In de-
mand for the last year or two in the United
States. This demand is due to the formation
of numerous golf. cycle and kindred clubs.
The introduction of the wheel has given a
great stimulus to this style of clothing.
The golf coat is cut in the Norfolk blouse
or sack form, and is made of scarlet esta-
meme, or of the plaid or checked Shetland.
When made of the scarlet the club colors
can be shown on LAPEL. The breeches are cut
full knickerbocker style, with band of box
cloth four and half inches in width ex-
tending below the knee. 1t is upon this
band that the plaid stockings are folded over
Highland spats cut high up and made of box