The herald., 1895-10-01
A DELICATE
TASTE REQUIRED OF THE
TEA TESTERS

Everybody knows that the tea of com.
merce comes from China; many people
know that i. comes also from Japan. and
few have heard of, and partaken Of
tea that comes from India or Ceylon.
From whatever source it comes. tea is tee
IN the same sense that apples are apples.
But there are varieties and quaiitiss.
and modes of curing, which result In
articles of different appearances. davoss
and values. 1t is the business of tue Tea
faster to grade and value the various
sam Piles of tea submitted to him. The
sanctum of tea faster il an interesting
place. There are rows or narrow shelves
filled with little cans, or boxes, brass or
copper kettles over blue flames Of gas,
and round tables. These all imprsss one
at once as the implements of psculisr
craft.
Sight, touch, smell and taste are all
EXERCISED by the tea faster in the careful
judgment brought to bear upon the
q uestion OF values. The light must b
steady and true. For this purpose
north or northwest light is bsst-coming
directly from the sky without rsfections
from the buildings opposite.
The tea faster is now seated at a round
table of about four feet in diameter. which
may be revolved easily upon q central
pivot Samples of tea in neat tin cans.
are arranged in circle around the table.
about four inches back from the edge. In
front OF each can is delicate cup Of thin,
white china. These cups faro called It'll
ers." The table is so constructed that
these cups, or triers. stand a little lower
than the cans. This is to guard against
wetting the tea IT cup spills e. part ..t e.
scales of special construction may be seen
Possip bly, a silver Scent piece may be in
one of the scale pans. A few leaves Of
tea, just enough to balance the silver coin
constitutes drawing. A drawing OF tea
from each OF the samples upon the table
is now placed in the little cup in front Of
its own cal and the water is poured on.
This water must be fresh, also it must DO
boiling, and it must have been boiling
Just long enough to have been cooked.
without becoming fat. The " tier Is now
on. Little lines Of steam arise from ach
cup. The expert is intent upon his " *.
1t is a critical moment and time is shott.
Forty or fifty little cups Of tea-steaminR
hot, but cooling rapldly-demand the
closest attention. He bends intentiy over
the cups, and with his little silver spoon
stirs the leaves or raises them Just above
the water to catch their fragrance and
aroma. At this point it Is the sense of
smell that comes chiefly into play. From
cup to cup he goes, dipping and smelling,
direction, with occasional retreats for
com parison with some flavor or peculiar
ity which he has passed. He goes his
rounds more than once. For some teas,
which draw bright aud promising at first,
But too much time must not be spent
upon this. lest the liquor become too cool
for the next process.
While yet the steam is rising from each
cup the expert rolls great brass or cop
per vessel, like an immense hour glass;
hCtrr an, 10 a Nd hr1tx Ann a.
taste" the tea. From each cup in turn
the tea faster takes a little Of the infu-
sion upon his tongue and quietly elects it
into the metal spittoon. Thus slipping
and eiecting, slipping and .ejecting. be
and as be goes ne fxes the value Of the
goods as to drawing" qualities. His
eyes have already judged them as to
style. His hands have told him if the
leaves are dusty. And now his senses of
smell and taste have given testimony as
to flavor and strength. His Judgment as
to value 10 thus made up from the COM
bined testimony of sight, touch, smell and
taste. Quite likely this Judgment has
teen reached without swallowing spoon
full of the liquid before him.
Indeed, the sense of taste is more acute
if smelling be carefully avoided. Some
may deny this, saying they must get the
liquid we'll back upon the tongue. II,
however. hut few samples are to be val
ued, the testimony of the whole mouth
may be taken for each. But with many
samples to value it is unsafe to do so.
For, inevitably, some of the liquid will
go down the throat, even without con-
scious swallowing; and before be knows
it the experts taste will be vltiated, Just
as surely as ones appetite for dinner be-
comes less acute after hearty eating.
The business of tea faster is a fascipat-
ing one. The men in that occupation
seldom leave it voluntarily, notwithstand-
ing the fact that only few of them are
able to do more than just make living.
Providence Journal.
Many efforts have been made By ATTAIN
Ia barbara to induca the aufhnriflaa 70 al