The morning times., 1895-10-13
Society Goes
A-ca1Iing
TWEEDLE DEE DEE! WE'LL GO A
DUCHESS FOR TO SEE.
Mrs. Alva Vanderbilt Sent Out
1000 Announcements and
Had 500 Calls.


beautiful outer portals of Marble House
500 fine equipages.{ And out of each
there tripped from one to three elegantly
dressed women. An American girl had
stepped into the British nobility, and
these calls were for congratulation, many
wishes of Joy and much felicity.
In accordance with her own ideas of
etiquette, borrowed partly from the Lon
don set and partly from her native hos
pitable Southern training, Mrs. Alva S.
Vanderbilt sent out l coo letters to
friends, telling them of her daughters
engagement, and as half that number
were within calling distance of the City
by the Sea, 500 persons lost no time in
calling.
THE ANNOUNCEMENT.
The exact wording OF the announce
ment cannot be stated accurately, be-
cause il differed with the person and
degree of friendship. To 200 went the
barest announcement of the fact; to
another 200 more elaborate wording,
and to the others all over the world
went long private letters which. were the
work of the interchangeable Mrs. Alva and
her secretary.
To do this sort of thing well, so that 1t
gives satisfaction to all sets of friends, Is
social art greater than leading a cotillion
or planning a ball
1t is very astonishing how short a
time it takes to get new gowns. Late
in the season though Ii may be, early
in the winter though it may seem busy
though all the modistes advertise then-
SELVES to be, yet new dresses appear as
suddenly and as beautifully planned as
though months of preparation had been
put upon them.
All society wore new calling gowns to
pay respects to the prospective Duchess
She quiet a slip of a girl, wore white with
punches of ribbon at her waist for the
Newport calls, and for the New York ones,
when she cam do W n to the city for thetrous-
seau planning, she wore-a light material,
crepon mostly, or the sheerest china silk.
She wore them In black, in brown in blue
and in bright red, often figured. When she
goes into the street she wears long double
breasted coat that hides the gown TO below
the knees. Very English, but not very
dressy, her friends say.
FOR THE DUCHESS.
But the calling gowns for those who
put on their best smiles and their best
gowns to go tu see the little duchess to be.
One of them was a heavy corded silk. The
skirt fairly rustled with stiffness. 1t was
plain and beautiful The cut was prin
cess in the back, showing no seam at the
waist. The fastening must have been
under the arm and at the shoulder, FOR IL
was princess also. A very heavy white
cord and jet braiding went across both
the front and back or the waist, making
fine, full figure, as any trimming along
the bust or mid waist line will, and there
was a lovely thick crystal-edged ruching
around the neck.
Strange what an air of elegance Is
given to a dress by the addition of white
corded silk sleeves, There Is New YORK
woman who prides herself upon dressing
with elegance upon small allowance VINO
has Tour or five sets of these sleeves,
differently trimmed, that can be quickly
sewed into gown by her maid.
The sleeves OF this one very stunning
calling gown were of white silk, with
small -bits of applique work upon them.
The applique was in black velvet. The
bits were trianglcs of black velvet, with
beads sewed upon them. They We're ap-
pliqued upon the white silk with coarse
sewing twist, and around them were
sewed black Jet beads and small jet orna-
ments. The effect was very rich.
Stamped broCades i'll white SILK are
effective, but the cheapness with which
they are produced makes them little
common for those who are desirous of
making an individual impression. The
appiqued bits of black velvet are not
mon brocades.
Ladies who go shopping may like to
walk, but those who go calling invaria-
bly, like to go in carriage. even though
it be but the two-wheeier of the cab
stand. The reason for this is the ex-
terme elegance of the visiting toilette
Even the dinner gown is simple along
side of it Nothing in the whole ward
robe is as fine as ones best calling gown
rhe autumn winds which blew lords
and dukes over here for various purposes
of conquest, more or less successful, blew
along a style that is much in vogue in
London. but has never been popular here.
This is the fashion for wearing the tulle
or lace hat for dressy occasions We
like it for golf or tennis or the lawn party
or the country drive. But Londoners
like it for the theater, for the park and
for the calling occasion.
THOSE ENGLISH LADIES.
An English lady, one of the combina-
ton English set now here-the Il. o.
BaxIronsides, Dunraven, Marlborough,
Paget party-appeared twice in a fall
hat of lace. Once it was at Newport
and once in New York. The appear
ances were only brief calling after
noons," but the hat was much admired
American women are quick to pick up
what is good, and Immediately the Lace
it is English explained an American
lady very earnestly to her mjlliner, "but
because l see-what you have often tried
to impress on me-the becomiDgness OF
anything soft and full around the face"
As all who want sudden lace hat for
fall wear do not boast a regular milliner
nor know one who would get up such a
creation inexpensively, the rule for max
ing it may be briefly stated. II is from
the memorandum book of Fifth ave-
nue. milluer, who totted down the lines
for aiding her head milliner who was de-
sirous of getting up number of them.
Take the wire frame of summer tulle
hat. The larger the frame the better. No
matter what the shape, so long as the b.im
is flaring. Gather three yards OF fine, lacey
chiffonupon the brim, letting the lace weave
in and out of the wire until not an inch of
wire is visible. This is done by laying the
chiffon on top of the frame and pulling
it through into big, loose scallops. A few
stitches hold it smoothly in place.
THE chiffon should be exactly the color
of the trimmings of the fall suit. The
very swell Newport caller chose white,
embroidered in pale brown. Cover the top
f the frame with the plain part of the
chiffon. Now get two yards OF striped
velvet ribbon that includes all the shades
of the costume, and make into great,
broad outstanding bow. Fasten with an
emerald pin at one side of the crown, and
you have the fall lace hat. 1t is simple
enough and very becoming to everybody"
These are the milliner's memoranda,
and all may read.
so MANY BEADS
A little black-eyed seamstress appeared
the other day in the office of a great
oculist complaining of her eyes. They