Omaha daily bee., 1895-09-08
Fashion Notes.

Black, golden brown and dark green velvet
capes of moderate length will be very much
in evidence this autumn.
velvets of every kind, plsin, padded, striped,
chameleon, repped and moired, Will be in use
for two seasons to come.
Crush belts and collars made of richly col
ored plaid satin or taffeta silk viii be very
fashionable accessories on bodies of dark
gowns.
The well equipped wardrobe has one under
skirt of fiber chamois in 1t. This Is designer
for wear beneath an unl.ned serge or chevlot
skirt.
Large orders have been placed with manu-
facturers for ~lustrous white corded silks and
heavy but soft-finishod cream and ivory-whlte
satins for evening toilets.
Brown crepon trimmed with putty-colored
grass cloth will be a favcrite combination OF
color in the season of brown leaves ana WIN
cred grass.
Every woman who beasts a coat of-arms is
having IL cut in one of the semi-precious
stones, like cat's-eye or sardonyx, and SET III
a ring or umbrella handle.
Correct young women have made to order
for each of their walking dresses a pair OF
CATERS exactly matching the skirt In Color.
These they wear with low SHOES, elther patent
leather or of calf.
Lusterless colored black silk is worn by
others than those in mourning. Comblne1
| with sapphire blue, apple green or cowslp
colored velvet it makes a handsome dinner
gown.
The deep sailor collar which has been a fea-
ture of wash dresses this summer VIII De
equally popular in the fall: An interllnlhs III
fiber chamois will give them the necessary
stiffness.
Pink in every tint and tone will be in high
yogue this winter for evening toilets, dressy
opera toques and bonnets, for trimmings ana
Innings, for black velvet round mats, ana loI
lining velvet and cream cloth capes Tor Dali
and theater uses.
Salammbo is a new delicate shade OF rasp--
berry pink that is combined with several
beautiful tints of green in evening toilets OF
| Marie Antoinette brocade, showing an ex-
auisite floral design upon a rich background
shot with pink and green.
Some of the new fall jackets have rolling
| collars. which may be worn turned up or
down. Their shape is preserved by an inter
lining of fibre chamois, the utility OF which
seems to be without end.
Bows of stiff ribbon, ospreys, quilts and
wings are the trimmings most favored for
fall wear. They ares ct upon the hat with
a sort of mathematical precision is
very charming when the hat adorns a fresh
young face, but which is trying in the ex-
treme to worn ones.
The toque and the English turban are set
beside the sailor and beefeater hats as claim
ants for fashionable favor this fall. The little
French toque is a greater favorite than the
turban because it is becoming to more faces
than the latter hat, and also because 1t ad-
mits of so very many more ways of trim
ming.
The box pleated Norfolk waist reappears
among costumes and toilets for the fall. 1t
forms a part Of utility gowns of mohair,
tweed, cheviot, shepherds check, camel's
hair. serge, ETC., as well as the bodice portion
of dainty toilets of corded silks. fancy %taffeta,
crepon, plaided surah, Powered satin, and a
host of dressy materials.
A low. round-cornered walking hat in
brown. trimmed with brown ribbon, close
balls of brownish red ostrich feather and a
brownish red osprey is a pretty piece of fall
headgear. Brown and yellow and brown and
red are, by the way. two of the favorite
fall combinations. A brown hat ablaze with
nasturtiums ranging from pale lemon color
through glowing reds and into rich brown is
a triumph of the milliner's skill.
The long favored mutton-leg sleeve seems
to be quite as popular as ever with ladies'
tailors and dressmakers, whether correspond
ing with the corsage or made of some con-
trasting fabric. The bishop and Queen Anne
shapes also continue in favor and although
they fall from the shoulder in fiat, unstlf-
fened effect, they are quite as wide and full
as ever, their greatest width and fullness
being arranged to droop over the close fore
arm in which they almost invariably termi-
nate.
There are quite as many tempting shades
OF blue among the autumn and winter dyes
as in green or brown. Among them are
the lovely grayish silver blues, often more
becoming to women of neutral type than
any other color. There are likewise the
ocean blue, Bengal, cadet, swallow, and the
revived peacock blue, but of a shade so dark
that it is much like the superb Neapolitan
and Roman blues that are seldom seen out
side OF rare Oriental paintings. The Rus
sian and marine blues appear among hand
some tailor cloths for fall and winter coat
ings and costumes.
Modistes report many orders for velvet
blouse waists in black, brown, green and
dahlia color. These velvet garments give a
very rich effect to a costume at compare
lively small outlay. They look very stylish
over skirts OF crepon, corded silk, satin,
repped wool, or %taffeta. or, indeed, any
pretty skirt like shepherds check wool or
mohair that is cut in fashionable shape
and gracefully hung. 1t is practically inn
possible to get the sleeves of a velvet waist
into the sleeves of a jacket without ruin to
the velvet one. Nothing but a cape is to be
| thought Of in such a case. The velvet
blouses for cold weather wear will be lined
with outing cloth or other soft flannel in
order that they may be worn out OF doors
without the addition of a wrap. The pitt
less blasts OF winter preclude all thoughts
OF a sllk-lined waist for the street, unless
worn above a fitted chamois bodice.
Feminine Notes.
Mrs. George J. Gould is very fond OF
sitting for her portrait. Mr.. Gould has In
his possession twenty-three different paint
ings OF his wife.
Patti was born in Madrid in 1S43. but was
brought to this country when a year old.
A portion of her childhood was passed In
New York City.
Mrs. Charlotte Smith of the Woman's
Rescue league Of Boston has taken a reso-
lutte position against those clergymen @who
say to erring humanity: Come TO Jesus"
- 4I.a 80 - 10 LNnrana m n vacation