The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-02-17
THE W0MRN
OF FRSHION.

UT FnSHIUN.
New York. Feb. 1s-'n the
coat fits, put it on" is an ex-
preston much used by lovers Of meta
phor. Its negative might appropriately
be applied in literal sense to real coats
and real people. Emphatically. so says
everybody. II the coat does not fit, above
all things do not put it on. The idea goes
further than this too. and may be put
in this way: If the coat, dress. hat or
whatever it may be does not befit you,
do not wear it. Many a 1uclless maid,
all for love of finery. has exposed herself
to criticism for wearing gowns that are
unsuited to her station in life or her
age or her race and previous condition
of servitude. There are a few charac-
teristics which lineage and ancestry give
US. Sometimes they spring from the son,
but such are rare. one of these charac-
teristics is a slim. shapely foot. on. no!
I'm not going 10 talk about Triiby.
Poorg'rl! she's dead. and I for one shall
let her rest. But if anybody wants to
bring her up to refute my argument, l
shall refer him to Trilby's father, who,
Notwithstanding his bibulous tendencies,
was a gentleman and a scholar.
Besides, this idea is not original with
the present scribe" as the originator of
both the phrase and the idea was won't
to call himself How much DR.. Holmes
was Influenced by the unbroken line Of
descent from the Pilgrim Father we can
not know, but with such authority be-
hind what have been saying 1 feel at
liberty to stand by it.
The idea of the pretty foot as an attri-
butte of aristocracy is so well recognized
among women that they struggle to OBJ
tain at least a semblance of it at the cost
of comfort, and therefore of grace. Small
regard is paid to nature u the choice Of
shoe If your foot isn't sim FIT ought TO
be- is the dictum Of the makers of foot
wear. and the unfortunate possessor OF
a short fat foot can get no ready-made
shoe to fit it, The theory is that SO long
as there is some place left for the sur
plus width to ooze into no harm is done. A
great deal might be done for the babies
of our race by tying up their feet, Chinese
fashion. while the bones and snews are
in a formative state. A light bandage
only moderately tight would serve TO CIR
cumvent nature in her efforts TO give US
something wider than skates TO stand on,
ana il is surprising that ambitious mothers
have not tried some such method upon
their unpromising offspring ere this
Seriously, however tine sim foot IS the
easiest kind to deal with. 1t admits OF
ornamentatiOn which the chunky foot VIII
not bear. The long pointed toe gives
the appearance of slenderness TO a short
foot, and if the surplus space be stulted
with cotton it is ali the same to the toot
whether IL is confined by a bit OF cotton or
"a piece of leather.
However, there has been slight re-
action in the matter of razor toes me
very latest thing in shoes Is the square
tin Tho shoe is quite as narrow as the
razor toe. but it is just as if the point had
been chopped off. "This is sudden
change" said a shoe dealer in answer to
a question we had intended to put all our
square toed shoes on the bargain counter,
but now we are selling them at the usual
price"
The French have always led the fash
ions in footwear, and no one knows the
seductive power of a prettily dressed foot
better than a French woman. More than
this, the true Partisan loves to feel that
she is thoroughly we'll dressed from top
to toe Such tastes lead her into all sorts
of extravagances in the way of under
wear, Turing her into the purchase of silk
tights and hosiery until there is very
little money left for outer garments. Es-
pecially does she glory in the possession
of pretty stockings Those most desired
are of course made of silk, and as elab-
orately embroidered as ones cash will
permit. Fancy has fairly run riot in the
direction of some of the more elaborate
styles Black continues to be the prevail
ing color for all times even though many
prefer colors. In this we are not reverting
to the styles of our grandmothers, for
took urrp9f dnliRbt in their IL
late hose.
Just now fashion requires the finest
silk-so fine that it is almost transparent
embroidered, too, a little above the ankle.
Bridal hosiery is especially fine One beau
tiful black silk pair has applique embroid-
cry in white mousseline dc sole with
little pailettes and pealrs forming checks
across the front of the stocking. Another
pair also of black silk is ornamented with
garlands Of roses and orchids running up
the sides.
With slippers the stocking often matches
the dress. or it may be a light pearl tint.
Lovely dreams in pale rose or blue are
garnished with insertions of white laces.
Flesh coored stockings have like trim
mings of black lace, and any and all of
them are scattered with little jewels or
jet as the fancy dictates.
The brief lull in the craze for pretty
garters has brought on a reaction which
promises to be even more violent than
before. Vulgar elastic is but meager
support for the exquisite hosiery l have
been describing. One must have ribbons
and lace and flowers and jewels to grace
such lovliness The designers fancy has
not been confined within any limitations
of jeweled buckles and the like Carriers
are not the simple affairs they once were
Any latitude is allowed provided the re-
suit be ornate. There are five varieties
in the illustration. one of these is bril-
liant rose velvet with three choix set on in
front. from each of which fall ends Of
ribbon. Another is of yellow liberty satin
with a flower of white lace and a bow of
blue ribbon at the side. A very
pretty design is in mauve satin
shirred very close with a ribbon ruche
around each edge and a butterfly bow
of chautilly lace in front from which fan