The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-10-06
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

/ T.
says Balzac. ''and. coquetry, adieu. No
more passioni All powerful is the skirt
And the strange tales comes TO US from
Paris, home of the knickerbocker garb.
that the streets are safer to women biped-
daily clad than to others. and that times
are less Troublesome to the police now that
| many women are thus attired- For the
charm OF women IS a most potent cause
of worriment to the authorities where the
maxim runs, for every crime the same:
Look for the women in the case"
Yet the question. do men fall in love
with women in knOckerbockers? would
never be debated by those who saw that
pretty girl all in gray, with cheeks tinged
| rosy by the generous blood. her red epau-
let's, slender gigot sleeves and white
frOnted blouse bodice, flash past in the
| park. Her bonnet is a brilliant red Tam,
| turned up upon the left with a clasp and
a gray feather, her boomers are not only
wide, and neatly cut, and she wears wide
white cuffs, detachable, washable. 1t is
all nonsense to say that mems hearts
will be steeed against such visions if they
became numerous. The question must
be settled in otherwise.
| Paris which is foremost in the knicker-
booker ranks; Paris where great ladies
adopt the reform dress as they have Meth
er in London or New York, does not
therefore forswear the dainty cOnceits
which have earned its fame as a capital
of fashion. 1t is Paris which now accen-
tuates the slope Of the shoulder by bring
! ing the seam well down over the point
and frequently by hanging the fulness Of
the sleeve nearly at the middle of the
/ upper arm. Perhaps the slope is still
further accentuated by cape-llke effect
of huted chiffon above the fulness of the
sleeve. A very new Paris gown thus
| quantity devised is in giace silk in mauve
the bodice draped with chiffon of a deep
! er shade, in narrow pleats laid on over
tight lining. The low neck opening is fin
! ished with a band of black pearl and en-
broidered guipure. Bretalles of the same
! pass over the shoulder and down back
| and front hanging rather loosely in front
| The sleeves are bOuffant, draped'Wltn ian
II is worth while noting that the skirt
| in the costume last described clears the
| ground completely, all around.
| Even where the knicker is not used
/ in outdoor costume, the Parisians are
boldly experimenting with a. short skirts;
| brought over with the winged dinner
/ gown consists of check homespun, gray
| and brown trimmed with brown leather
| be substituted, is placed in wide band
| at the cuffs and at the skirt edge, and
! forms the lapels of low rolling collar
over a starched dickey. The hat is made
| of the same check with feather and a
bunch of heather. And the skirt will
| never drag in mud less than eight inches
OF course a costume de chase" is for
| most women an absurdity, but special
/ business, walking or rainy day dress Is
not; and here is the way to it, If one walks
hand in hand with courage.
The styles of the season lend them
| selves to the arts of the woman who wish
es to make her frocks do double duty
service Wryh gown good for boatng shopp pGg
marketing or the like, If strongly marked
| with gray and black upon the bodice
transformed into a promenade gown for
/ dressy afternoon use by DOMINIC a big
! ger and more snowy hat, and by draw
| ing close up about the neck tiny cape
| in black satin or MORE, scarcely more
! than a wide collarette whose long wide
black ribands fall well below the waist
or with very full pleat two inches wide,
or in some other way have its gay char
| acter and purpose emphasized. A simple
| band will not do at all.
1t seems odd to make a dress gayer by
adding a lot more black to it, but try this
idea
There was once an actress and she wore
| on the stage a hat
That was an individual note. What fol-
| lowed was leaf out of the romance of
| trade. A manufacturer noted the hat and
! copied it. Though the design was not pat
ented in any way and was initiated right
! and left, this manufacturer cleared So,
900 as his profit on that one model in a
single season.
That was several years ago. If 1t was
this season. l should say that the manu-
facturer might be making his fabulous
profits out of some of the patterns of great
picture hats, wide brimmed, fiat crowned
or no crowned, worn well back upon the
head, trimmed underneath with lace and
above with pert wings. With slight
changes, this type of hat has not only
must stay in favor so long as gigot sleeves
are worn. For one does not well put a
little hat above big sleeves
| One compares to fans Of delicate texture
the out-raging folds Of pleated chiffon SO
much used.
/ Or they are like sea shells whose pearly
fiutings spring from common center and
flow outward in a gentle curve Equally
Partisan with the dropped shouldered
gown is one of darkish, rough cloth, dun
color with irregular bars and blotches OF
black, whose bodice front is fiuted chiffon
and from each of whose shoulders springs
a shell-shaped ep2ulet of white embroid-
cry. The wearer seems almost to be taking
wing to soar above the griny streets and
away where clothes are no more. and the
fashions never change.
It is noted that
Gauntlet gloves will be worn with the
seasons sleeves, tight at the wrist.
White silk, plain or brocaded will be
a favorite seasons fabric 1t is beauti-
full in combination with black chiffon
about the bodice to enhance the charm
of a white shoulder.
Yellow is a gorgeous note, whose value
was little recognized until recently. The
wearer of yellow is bold, but, If her COM
pleXion suits, not too bold
Yellow and white, the skirt yellow, the
bodice white with bands of yellow, and a
great blot of black somewhere, makes a
fine snowy evening gown.
The hat is either worn on the name OF
the neck, or on the nose. There is no
golden mean.
A pretty race or autumn festival cos
tune is made of lace and pale blue and
white shot glace silk. The -parasol is blue
and white and lace covered.
Another, more autumnal looking is OF
red current color shot with white, with a
black line running through it, the bodice
in black chiffon, accordion pleated with a
zouave jacket very short behind and a Ions
pointed yoke of jet bespangled netting.
Chiffon blouses and silk blouses are in
high favor. Pale green with narrow
threads of black, pale pink with bands of
yellow, pale blue with cross bars of do II