The sun., 1895-02-03
RAINBOW CAPPED HAWAII.
THE LAND OF EVERL4sTING BARE-
roof As SEEN ny joaquin MILLER.
The Poet Of the sIcrrns Charmed by ITS
Many Heautics-President DoIe'a New
Years Cnilers-A Land or Romance and
no oSnRkcs-Annexati alton Its Destiny.

And the morning and the evening were TN
sixth day" At dawn on the seventh day ou
from san Francisco low. dark line lifted from
the dense blue sen TO tho left. the Leper Settle
ment, and soon huge, blnck crater hung in I'll,
clouds almost over our heads TO the right; nnt
80, as the sun burst over the mighty black wal
of torn and ragged and serratcd lava whicl
looms above Honolulu to the north, we SAILED
into the lovelicst harhor / ever saw. Naples 1,
nothing In comparison. The Dense deep bluC
OF Copra Bay Is not nearly so beautifully blue
as Is this bay of Honolulu. The broken, lazy
little clouds that hung above the wooded town
on the hillside were white as cotton; and this
maybe. made the intense blue of the bay still
more emphatic.
As we slowly rounded in toward tho town
we sailed under rainbow OF such in
dcscriOable breadth and brlliahcy that
hesitate to describe IL. This beautiful wit
| ness of His covenant had. up TO this time and
| in all lands. seemed only narrow hal. hoop to
| me. But this Hawaiian rainbow. or maybe n
| succession of rainbOws, was 30 broad that 1t
| reached from far out in the bay not only TO the
| town. but on over the town and up the wooded
sleeps OF the mountains to where tho white
| clouds were torn and pierced by tho thousand
volcanic crags and peaks on their inaccessible
| submits. Conceive a rainbow that takes in
half the heavens, cotton-whltc clouds. sapphire
/
ana groves, tamarind. mango cocoa palms man
| ting town OF red brick, and YOU have some
| idea OF at least the co.or of Honolulu as | first
| saw the missionary city.
The Mosiem prophet refused to descend into
| Damascus, saying that it is permitted man To
| enter heaven but once: and IL | Mess that
descended to the wharf. hat i'll hand, and with
heart bursting with gratitude, do not rcpronch
me- The independent has sent me to many far
away and many fair ports this past quarter OF
century; but all of them put together, ii seems
to me. would not nearly match this landing here
unGCr tlC RAIN bow IN TINS New England city of
the great seas.
friction, although. as the landing of steamer
is the one event of the week. the wharf was
packed with people of every color class, or ma
iion. yet not one loud or tho least unCivil word
was heard. 1t was exactly like sunday. even
like crowded church service amid the Christ
Nearly everybody barefooted. The native
women were mostly clad in loose silk gowns Of
hats with broad and gaudy cords and bands OF
silk, but one and all Garcfooted. The Custom
House officers barei ooted, the police. the soldiers
also, or course do not mean all the officers
and leading men in any department, the most of
set it down here as L" the land OF everlasting
/ orcned my bag as came along in the line
Of Messengers to the big iron gate that opens out
into the city, and haEdcti II To n barefoOted
official in gorgeous uniform, His inquiring
pride In that flask for il was the gift OF friend
parting gift. and credit me ior it. l had pre-
served it for seven days and nights, and wished
Geons uniform, whsperea, with George Wash
HfoTm whi;peTcl bach; lie 'i%,siia no snake in ali
Hawaii"
Then he took out the cork. sme!led Of it.
tasted ii, handed it TO the next gorgeous uni
form: and this one also said, in a low solemn
whisper: He no snake in all Hawaii" The
roared; but the officers never cracked a smile |
and in less than minute the flax was empty, |
passed on through the gate into Eden. glad |
o snopgh Ia at q thG prize paid to know that he no
Ths prettiest lilt!e one horse two-seat ed vic
torias are seen standing all around under the |
broad banana trees. by the red brick houses and
10y the green squares up and down town. These |
are the lbs" OF Honolulu; the only decent cabs |
ever law In my life; and the only decent cab
like their little carriages. most scrupulously |
clean. There is no city i'll the world where thcr. |
are so many carriages, comparatively. MS in !
honolulu. Probably Tie basis Ot it lies in the |
fact that there Is no land on the globe nearly |
half so rich as.these islands; other lands produc-
ing for export from ten To hfty dollars. while |
Hawaii easily has far above, one hundred annu-
ally TO export 10 each inhabitant, and yet Its |
half her time in II carriage.
And such pretty little horses. fat and sleek rs
mules. . every one a mute bur unimpeachabie Wit !
ue's u the good. gentle heart Of the Hawaiian |
cal man. The horses are all, as "A rule. Imported
from California: also their feed. Thank you.
in lis victoria. WHERE to- Down m the n; baH'
through your public gardens"
long. narrow artificial Esn ponds right and lef..
The long. harrow islands that stretch between
the waters edge with their golden loads. These
art.ncini ilsh ponHs nrr cider, many ,cehtqries
perfect roads are surely Of Saxon make. Great,
portable stone Crushcrs grind the brittle and
porous lava. foGnl right AT hand ever, where o
a iii iineness: and this, distributed generously
over all the strrc:s and highways gives suCh
perfect carriage drivcways tn the Sandwich
Islands as are seen nowhere else on the globe.
| drove more than dozen miles down the
warm sea bank with its white ripple OF sand
only here and there visible through: the palm.
the cocoa, the tamarind. the mango groves: and
all these groves Changing and ringing with the
Robert Louis stevenson there great CAPTAINS
OF the land and Captains Of the sea. travellers,
men of science, famous men OF all sorts. spent
hour would bc in Nrw York, and had more
riirlity from my, driver, stranger to stranger,
states or Europe under like circumstances,
though you SHOULD comb it from end 10 cnd
walked through tine town under the electric
lights as night fell TO see thS hundreds of flower
tnre must BE- climatic. Ii has spread to ali
people OF all nations here. flower girl with
wild or tame; comes along looking for
cool place To spread her mat. Likely enough
.he, with dozen others gathering about her.
rlchcd oNt with toys. II may bc n low incr-
liant, German, Greek, or Turk who sees his
goods rut gii from the paaser by on the narrow
sidewalk: hut he !s go0d-naturedly indifferent.
md G9d bless him and prosper him for II
Passing down into what may be called the
Rowcry of this Hawaiian capital of 1900 souls, |
liter we had seen the old year ont and the new
ear in NJ one of the old missionary churches. |
vas glad 10 note the same prevailing good ma |
ure even In THIS lowest part Of the town and at | ,
he most tempting hour OF course there arc
lot many low people here; for besides the great
ost OF rcnching the islands You not only have
. hayeH good charart"r and fairly good health,
'ut at least so in sold Ia hand before YOU
an land; so you scc only those who
iavc some business here are encountered. {
'ut You would ,hink that the natives, II at ali
Ike our Indians, would make Rome howl" ON
udayS, for they have lots Of money and plenty
I low nature To overcome too But saw not
ne rude action, hence not one loud or coarse ,
.urd. The 10000 japanese here are seeming !
he battlrteds in China 10 their dSadyantacc
nd are beginning 10 justlc the 30 Ouu natives a {
little. lcuu d see that plainly on my New Years
We tour lAry drink ~ sort Of rice brandy. anl
hen become saucy, rude especially To China
lcn and natives. \
4 wonderful number Of "Oli timers" called I
lew Year :, after tho old custom in the AtlHu- 9
c states. now long since lost track Of. Take |
ear old Gen. Whitney, for example. Dr. Judd a
ruught him here trUm san Francisco more d
han iorty years ago to edit the Kings first a
cwspapcr. lie became the King, first Post
Iastcr-Gcnernl, made the Kings first postage |