Birmingham age-herald., 1895-07-21

and always stand or sit in a bright light so as to wipe off any streaks of free pow der For daylight this is about all a woman may venture on without a veil it is makeup enough for the glare of the morning sun. In the afternoon, towards dusk, or at night, very pallid woman may take years from her appearance and present a countenance apparently free from care or pain by supplying the color nature has cheated her out of to lips and cheeks. The best substitute for natural color is a very fine French rouge for cheeks, and the pomade for which the following is the formula for the lips:
 Red Lip Salve.
 Take of spermaceti ointment, one-half pound; alkanet root, or drachms; di- gest, at gentle heat, until the first has acquired a rich, deep red color, then pass it through a coarse strainer. When the liquid fat has cooled a little stir in thor oughly drachms balsam of Peru. In few minutes pour off the clear portion from the dregs Gf any) and add 20 or 30 drops oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pouI' it into the pots or boxes
 Apply the lip-coloring with a tiny stiff brush which comes for the purpose. By the aid of a magnifying hand-mirror care fully remove any Superfluity and see that the line of the lip is closely and artisti- cally followed.
 It is difficult to make a satisfactory rouge for the cheeks at home. I give a formula, but the ingredients are ire Quently adulterate or of inferior quality so l advise the imported article.
 Carmine Rouge.
 Finely bolted tale, four ounces; car mine, two drachms. Mix together with little warm and diluted solution of gum tragacanth. Form into a smooth tablet and allow to dry. Apply with a hare's foot and with great care.
 
 carmine. is the one cosmetic for the fact which may be continuously used without the slightest detriment to the texture or color of the skin. This is not the case with the "blanches,'' or as at present known "bleaches," all of which contain corrosive sublmate and frequently have the secondary effect of producing discolo- ration or patches
 Foreign women, especially the French and Spanish, use and prefer the rouge crepons for coloring the checks to the rouge in powder or tablet form. They may be made as follows:
 Take number of bits of white wooden crape of fine cotton wood, soak and dry repeatedly in the solution here given.
 Solution for Making Rouge Crepons.
 Powdered carmine, one and half drachms: liquid ammonia, five drachms. The carmine is entirely soluble in pure liquor of ammonia; if it does not 1is- solve it is not pure. When quite dis solved add: Rose water, eight ounces; alcohol, half an ounce; essence of rose, two drachms. and finally gum arabic, half an ounce
 These crepons may be kept for years. To use them moisten very slightly or rub the cheeks with the dry crepon.
 Exceeding Care Is Necessary.
 Liquid palms, cream. etc., are effective and imperceptible if well chosen. but they too frequently contain bismuth or cal omel-in fact, one of the much-vaunted preparations is nothing but a solution of calomel and water. The continued re- suit of using bismuth, lead or calomel preparation is enlarged pores, which are most unsightly. No liquid preparation should ever be used, night or day, which gives you white-washed or kalsomined appearance. There are one or two ex- cellent and harmless liquids for whiten- ing the face. I give formula, with the suggestion that it should be used with great discretion. Too often a woman makes the mistake of using cosmetics intended for the theater and the glare of electric footlights for the street She is indeed a frightful object, and the cos metic art. like every other, suffers from such tyros.
 The obviously white-washed, enameled or "made-up" woman is never a thing of beauty. She is related to the fnesse of the art Ol tne lOi1el hs5 d SldTlDR CnrOmO is connected with the original master piece. The enameled woman is her own worst condemnation, and I beg to say my defense of cosmetics in their proper place has nothing to do with the exag- gerated makeup of grease. paint and enamel one sees occasionally in broad daylight on the streets
 Liquid Whitener.
 Distilled water. 2 quarts; oxide Zinc ounces; alcohol. 40 drops; rose water. 3 ounces. Mix the zinc, alcohol and rose water, then add distilled water. Bottle and always shake well before applying with a small velvet sponge.
 Discreet Touching Up.
 To darken the eyes and eyebrows, the cosmetic pencil manufactured for that purpose is the best and most effective of all the numerous fads. The pencils may be purchased in shades of brown or black.
 Care should be taken in making up the eyes-nothing is so disfiguring as the black line under the lower lid-it is vul- gar in the extreme. The slightest shadow is all one should trace with the pencil The eyebrows should also be touched with the extremest delicacy
 Fashionable women very generally at the present time use powder rouge and the eyebrow pencil. both in America and in England, as well as on the European continent where the hair-dresser in- varia bly, touches up' the complexion of his clients before arranging the coiffure for an evening function. I should say about seventy-five fashionable New York women out of every 100 use toilet pow der, and certainly 40 per cent add lit tie color to cheeks and lips in the even- ing. The cleverest women and the most charming are those who make no secret to their immediate friends of their use of such toilet accessories as they choose. One most delightful New York belle l always recall with keen pleasure, as she sat in her exquisite boudoir chatting with me one morning some time ago. In