The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1895-02-17
LATE DEGREES Of
DAME FASHION.

Sleeves are if anything increasing in
size, but exaggerated sleeves should be as
carefully avoided by short women as by
. those who are too tall and thin.
e A French woman always first consults
.herage, figure, and cast of features before
adopting any fashion, hence the immense
number of styles which emanate from Paris
every season. One of our modistes showed
me no less than eighteen imported gowns,
and not one of them had the same sort OF
skirt, but all were the latest la Paris.
In the choice of materials one should
think always not only of their suitability
for. the use TO which they are to be put,
but also. the complexion must be most
carefully consulted before selecting color,
or certain textures. One walking-gown of
mine was awfully unbecoming, and l was
at a loss to understand why. as the color
and styles were good, but Frenchwoman
enlightened me when she asked why l
wore such a texture. 1t was a coarse
looking stuff and ruined my complexion.
1t is odd how many women with creamy,
j." colOrlesS' skins and yellowiSh brown hair
will insist on matching either their hair or
skins in purchasing clothes. Many
woman would be absolutely handsome if
have all her light brownish, yellowish
clothes dyed dark. Men cannot criticize
women in this respect, for quite as many
ofthem do the same thing.
Girls are often coming to me and telling
me what trials they have keeping within
their allowances, and asking II ever had
one. Well, did have one when l was
about 10, and l positively believe trying to
dress on IL added five years to my age dur
ing the first six months, as | resolved to
make it do. and as the result of much ex-
perience / would advise girls who have
only moderate sum to spend and must 60
out a great deal to make it a rule never to
attempt TO have their calling gowns or
their best bah or dinner dresses made at
home. 1t IS far better to have only a third
as many costumes and have them in good
taste and perfect style than to have lot of
nondescript horrors that are absolutely
without any go" to them.
One of the best dressed girls in San Fran
cisco; who goes everywhere and is spoken
of as perfectly stunning" by the men,
showed me her accounts for the past year,
and what do you suppose she had dressed
on? Exactly. S37S IS was the sum, and that
included two imported hats, tailor gown,
two lovely calling tQilettes, but then l
must not tell you too much or you will
guess who the girl is.
Now, of course, this wise girl is very
careful of her clothing. She has no maid
so she always carefully brushes and re-
moves any stains before putting away her
belongings. She always hangs her cloth
ing by their proper loops and uses the wire
or wooden arrangements for the waists to
keep them in shape. Then one garment is
never hung carelessly over another, thus
avoiding any crushing of delicate fabrics,
so she is not at any expense for her home
or simple evening and dinner gowns as
little French woman always makes over
her swell last wears dresses
To find the clever little seamstress is the
trouble, but If searched for diligently she
is sure TO be found, and | strongly advise
all girls to learn to sew neatly, as il seems
so unwOmanly not to know how to b indle
a needle, and a thousand pretty trifes
which add so much to a woman's appear
ance can be made by deft fingers. 4 New
York girl, Vogue tells us, made black and
colOred silk stockings look very pretty by
inserting a piece of black or white lace
over the instep. And this is how she did
one pair of black silk ones: She basted
carefully upon the instep a piece of black
lace which had dainty pattern, then she
buttonholed all around it with black sew
ing-silk, and lastly cut the under portion
OF the stocking away in an oblong shape
so that the narrow end reached upward on
the ankle.
Now that Lent is near at hand many will
spend time in making up beautiful under
WEIR, for much which is shown in the
shops is entirely too. expensive for people
of moderate means. Now it takes about
nine yards of nainsook or India linen to
make a nightdress, for the sleeves made
balloon shape are yard or more in width
and reach TO the elbow, where they are
finished with deep ruffle of lace or fine
embroidery. A double ruffle to match the
sleeves is put around the neck, which is
cut slightly V shape. Some finish their
gowns with a small ruffle around the
bottom.
Chemises and corset-covers seldom fit as
they should unless made at home, for
ready-made ones usually either do not set
well round the waist and hips, or, more
frequently even, the fit about the neck is
not all that we would wish; so, for special
wear it will not be waste of time to make
up a few of these dainty garments.
Pretty morning gowns for summer re-
sorts of muslin. bingham and chambray
are to be much trimmed with embroidery,
that giving the perforated effects which
are the most popular. Many of these sum-
merry toilettes will be made by the dress
makers during the dull season, as they
will be simple in style; there is no need to
wait for the latest news from Paris to begin
on them: Full skirts, from four to six
yards wide Blouse fronts for most of the
waists and balloon sleeves with deep cuffs
of embroidery will be found to be the pref
test of all designs MARcELLA.