New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-15

tered here and there: and the outside seam Is out
lined by double ruche OF the lace.
One wonders what afternoon function could call
for such magnificent go~n; but these frocks are
not models but intended for immediate wear at
Homburg and Continental spas where royalty IL
expected to and admire.
charming Casino frock has the waist cut into
square at the base OF the throat-a very modish
cut now. There Is square collar OF heavy white
lace outlined by four strips OF ribbons which cross
each other at the These straps are OF lilac
velvet ribbon. with a narrow lace insertion mounted
on them and the throat Is finished with narrow
plain band Of lilac. To complete the collar double
pleatlng OF pale lilac moussene de sole borders the
outer edge OF the ribbon straps that pass over the
shoulders The gown itself Is Of white SIX crepe
with lilac satin figures embroidered on II. Inc
blouse-wast ends IN short pun over the hps ana
is held by n sash OF lilac velvet which fastens on
the side and falls in long rounded tabs on the
skirt These tabs are edged by narrow peatlng
Of the moussellne de sole. The sleeves end just
below the elbows with very dainty cuff that sug-
gests the collar 1t is formed OF two rows OF the
mousseline de sole pleating separated by the lace
insertion mounted on a strip OF lilac velvet
In spite OF the promised popularity OF mixed and
fancy woods the coming season, large NUMBER OF
early autumn travelling gowns are being made OF
smooth-faced cloths. These often plain or OF
several tones in an indefinite pattern. They are
simply made. and trimming Is more fasnioh-
able than small buttons OF the same CLOTH BLACK
cloth buttons are. however used very effectively on
colored cloth suits The buttons are not alone an
ornament for in several instances they fasten the
basque bodice from waist to chin There are real
buttonholes too both for and ornament
skirt of navy blue cloth is opened up the sides for
about foot to show panel or black cloth; anu
one side OF the opening is a row OF small blach
buttons and on the other the corresponding button
holes. as II the skirt might be fastened together
The Jacket of this suit has rather long fronts
cut in square tabs. The sides and back are shorter
and are arranged In very fnil godets lhs Jc
opens in front and the collar OF braided ol na
cloth is off just below the bust WITH TINS qGet
suit is worn very gay blouse o. cashrllelI IN IN
with considerable amount OF yellow sood osa
o. red and some dashss St p sstn ribbon with
large bow in the back and one OF equal size uhuer
How strangely old fashions return! one OF the
winters earliest and fondest recol.ectons In the
mater Of r dress 3 Is bs pad Trimmed With
pr.sing amount considering the SIZE OF tns IrOU1
OF narrow black velvet ribbon arranged IN waves,
and small gilt buttons. The gown satisfied all the
aesthetic longngs Of that period ana was Only 700
most a duplicate OF that very gown among the
autumn models yesterday al very smart IenuE
and n was nuite grown up''; but there were the
same plaid the same many rows OF narrow black
skirt and the same little gilt buttons scattered
with no raison d'etre over the jacket bodice am
very ugay aIInonsnF autumn model
The same tailor had clever lite cape to show
one that is responsible for shattered Illusions
II Is very snort for "A serviceable cape-hardly
reaching to the waist-lne-and Is built OF heaVy
navy-blue cloth and trimmed with blue cioth put-
tons There are five seams in the cape ana each IL
covered with six or short straps. each strap
held by two buttons. The cape turns away IN
revers in front held back with several buttons
The revers and the bottom OF the cape are double
stitched. Tho high haring collar is continuation
of the cape and is sashed into tabs straps OF the
cloth are fastened across every sashns win t"2
navy-hlue cloth and the sleeves are trimmed With
a row OF sable down the outside OF the arm me
acket has cape and nigh collar in one piece Of
the cloth edged with sable The garment Is cut
rows Of very large dark pearl buttons.