The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-04-29
MY ONE-ACRE-FARM.
Cold Frames, Their Construction and
Management.

The only difference between a cold
frame and a hot bed" consists in the
use Of some heating substance like stable
manure. in the latter. In making a hot
bed the soil is thrown out to the depth
of eighteen inches, then some stable ma
nure that has not been already fermented
10 any great extent is firmly packed
down in the bottom of the pit and to
depth of about twelve inches. This ma
nure, after being firmly pressed down and
slightly moistened, is covered with six or
eight inches of loamy soil, pressed firmly
and evenly down. Then a glass sash is
placed upon the frame and the soil al
lowed to become warmed up, then the
seeds are sown in the frames. 1t is rare
~ the case that hot bed is necessary
TO the securing of any kind of plants
Tor southern use. A cold frame, with
nothing but natural soil in 1t. if properly
managed, can be made to provide any
plant, whether half-hardy or tender, by
the time it is safe to set II out in the
open ground. For instance, in Middle
Georgia, 1t is not safe on an average
practice TO put out the main crop of to-
mato plants before April 10 or IS, and
usually there is little gain in setting them
out earlier, even if there is no frost after
the first Wen, seeds Of tomatoes sown in
cold frames the middle of February will
make plants large enough to set out by
April !, il the glass sash is kept in every
night and every cold, windy day for sew
eral weeks following the sowing They
Will require several workings, and wa
terings, of course, to push the growth
of the pants. Such waterings as 1t may
be necessary to give must be with water
that has been warmed up TO tempera-
fure OF about so degrees, and when the
temperature of the air in the frame is
about the same degree. With good seeds
and proper MANAGEMENT il is not difficult
TO provide tomato or egg plants or pep
per plants in four to five weeks from time
of sowing.
sash that is feet wide and feet long
without allowing any crack The back
board of the frame is y inches wide and
the front board inches. The end pieces
are so sawed as TO fit these together
After the soil has been deeply and finely
prepared the frames are set upon it and
pressed hrmly down into the loose soil
The inches inclination to the south read
lily turns of the rain and catches the
sun rays. A rim of felt or other ma
ter1al pasted or tackled along the edge
of the frame will insure no air getting
in between the sash cover and the frame
With proper care these frames will last
Tor years. AT least a week before SOW
ing time the soil in the frames should
be dug up and enriched a little If neces-
sary with some good old compost, and
then the sash should be put on and the
frames allowed to catch all the sun heat
possible. Keep the sash a day and night
A day or two before sowing the seeds
plHce in each frame a saucer or other
small open vessel having in IL table
spoonful or so of the bi-sulphide of car
DOns WHICH III It's evaporation VIII COM
pletely rid the frames of all insects. 1t
will not do to allow any of the white
grubs to find a place of habitation in
frame. Even one of the large-sized grubs
Will effect considerable damage 20 the
young plants. The carbon will also in
sure the absence of that destructive lit
tie insect the flea beetle, that is so de-
structive to young plants of all kinds,
and especially to egg plants and pepper
While the b-sulphide of carbon is by
all odds the best insecticide for freeing
cold frames from insects: still. If IN
cannot be procured, a saucer of turpen-
tine kept in the closed frames will be
found effective.
The soil in the frames should be we'll
firmed pressed down before sowing the
seeds and then the seeds should be sown
In shallow drills four TO five inches apart
very lightly covered with soil and IL
pressed down on the seeds with a board
or brick or hoe 1t will be found almost
invariably to pay to give plants one trans
planting before setting them finally in the
open ground. Cabbage, for instance AS
soon as the plants develop fully their
third leaf it is well to take them up and
transplant into another frame that has a
cloth sash, setting them carefully 3x2
inches apart, pressing the soil firmly to
the young and tender roots. Let them
grow for two or three weeks in this frame
so as to get strong and stocky before put
ting into the open ground. This first
transplanting frequently can be made to
advantage. in well prepared open bed
along the fence. If this is done, however
before the severe cold is over. a pile Of
pine straw should be provided handy, so
that the plants can be covered, If severe
and untimely cold mot simply fros) should
be threatened l. Vanhoe