Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-08-15

trip on GowCry beds of case, live on truffles, | mushrooms and quail, take Saratogas fill l cd with expensive 1inory tn Haunt before tho natives of Arizona, don't go-with a very largo capital D.
 But if you love nature so well that for her sako you can endure certain discom- forts and arc prepared to rough it in or der to look upon a scene which will blazon and burn its inagc into your memory for ever and aye, which will move you if you havo on0 little bit Of soul in your body, then go-wlth a very largo capital G. And go quickly, before the railroad, which the great Santa Flo system is sure to build within the next few years, shall penetrate this tremendous wilderness and bring tho world, the flesh and the other follow to these sublime precincts.
 For now QUO of its greatest charms is that it lies remote alone in its awful grandeur a thing apart from all the world, wrapped in rrimeval silence, demanding duo homage from tho pilgrims who travel from afar to knrcl at its terrible shrine.
 A Long Stage Ride.
 You leave tho railroad at Flagstaff, A. T., a typically rough frontier town. If possible, get away at oncc to tho canyon, for the only hotel in the town is an impos- sihlC place for clcanly people. Moreover, you can eat nothing which is set before you. l nlS pltlCe IS lottU lpr llS very Ddu cuuking In many of the toughest mining | camps of Colorado have had much better | fare. Mir. ThurbCr who runs the stages to tho canyon, is an accommodating man | and will senl tourists on any hour they | wish to go, although tho guidebooks ad- | NCrtiSc the stages as running but three | times a week While 1 was thcro a New York man came into the camp at , n. m., having been sent by special delivery from | Flagstaff. So there is no reason why you l should stop and suffer in tho town. The | stage ride is one of 70 miles. Thero arc | three relays of horses on tho routo, and a stop is made midway at Cedar Ranch for | dinner. The first and last stages of the l journey arc very pleasant, as tho trail | winds through grand forests of pine unin- | rumhcrcd with any undcrbrush. For | miles on either side you can look far down l long aisloS "f green flooded with golden | sunshine Tho two middle stages are not SD agrcCablc, as you drivo over those end less Arizona mcsas through clouds of | binding dust. It's not warm, though. I expected 10 be grillcd alive, but in July, crossing these plains, l wOro thick jack tt and had a heavy wool robe across my lap and was mono too warm.
 The Driver.
 Fortunate indeed will you be if you get the box seat with Robert Ferguson, driver. Ferguson, a handsome brawny Scotch ] American, has wintCrcd for seven years down in the canyon He knows every nook and corner of it, every bit of light and shade. He understands its every mood, he tells you in wonderfully beautiful language just how it looks after n thunderstorm when tho silver mists are lifting from its hidden charms as a lovely woman slowly lifts her veil, or how the moonlight touches its crags and pinnaclos, bringing out its contours with now attraction, or how the sunrise floods it with a light that nevor was on sea or land. Ferguson is the man who filled out Powell's pack train for his first explorations of the canyon, and he tells you many interesting stories of the ; daring explorer. He lets you drive, too, /; and shows you how to handle the four-i in hand and cnlightens you as to the tricks of he leaders and in every way helps to make !he tedious journey pass quickly. He's a character, is FcrgusOn-typically western, , whole soulcd, breezy, chivalrous, rough | Sir Walter Raleigh who puts his corduroy !, jacket under your feet for footstool.
 When you reach the camp, you fall intt , | the hands, not of the Philistines but tn, Tolfrees and Ming" The Tolfrees arr California folks who come to the canyol | every summer to take care of the wayfar
 CTS, and Ming is the Celestial who doe I
 miles from a railroad. Every vegetable
 every steak, every egg is brought that dis tance by stage But when you sit dow
 to beautifully clean table in the dinin,
 tent and eat deliciously cooked, appeti2
 ing meal, daintily served you by two blon
 Hebes, the pretty Tolfree girls, you ru
 your eyes and wonder whether you ar
 awake.
 Tho beds, too, are excellent, clean an
 comfortable, and as lying in your tent yo O listen to the never ending soughing of tn
 wind through tho pines you think tha , wild and woolly Arizona is not a half ba
 place after all. You will leave that cam rcgretfully-peaceful, restful place that ! island more than once will you think (
 "Ming's" cooking-those delicious pie that cake, those flapjacks!
 John Hance's Peril.
 All the way from Albuquerque you haN been hearing about John Hance. HanC has lived at the camp for 12 years. H .; owns two trails into the canyon, has pea
 named for him and is possibly the mo , distinguished citizen in that sparsely SC
 tied locality. But perhaps his chief clail
 to consideration arises from the fact tn
 hsla pbanahtndly the champion America