The record-union., 1895-02-07
SHOP DEFINITIONS.
Some Information of Special Interest
to Feminine Shoppers.
Glossary of Terms That Are in Every
day Use Among the Dry
Goods Men.

done on machine and steamed ana dried
into shape. Used on fine soft silk and
woolen goods for vests, waists, sleeves
and skirts; recently revived fashion.
A Jour-Open-w effect. An effect
in embroidery. in which the tissue is lett
open and transparent.
Antique-Applied to some fabrics
made in imitation of styles used in former
centuries, or supposed to be so, such as
satin antique is sometimes called by its
second name alone
Armure-Any fancy weave may be
called an armure, the effect being one of
weave and not of color.
Armure Laine-A colored silk re-
sembling armure, and wool-flled.
Barre-Stripes in the direction of the
filling; same as traYerS.
Bayadere-Stripes running in the di-
rection or the filling, SO that when the
skirt is made the stripes run around the
skirt, instead Of from top to bottom.
Color combinations, each stripe being OF
color different from the next following,
are popularity of the bayadere, al
though the color effect is not indis-
peusable.
Bengaline-A common name for fabrics
made with silk warp and wool filling,
When cheapened by the use of cotton in
place of wool they are sometimes called
cotton bengalines, although cotton is in
the filling only. The same weave is also
found in all-silk goods, designated as all
SILK bengaIlneS. The bengallne weave IS
a plain, round, corded weave, small in
size, of the popIin family; but wool-tilled
fabrics are seen in ali kinds of cords,
plain and fancy, and from the family Of
crystal weaves, crystals or crystallines.
Bolero-A tiny sleeveless jacket,
adopted from the Spanish nation.
BOucle from the French bOucle)-A
lock of hair, implying similar effects on
fabrics surface.
Bourette-ROugh threads appearing in
lines, straight or broken.
Bournous Is the outside garment worn
by Arabs, the tineness of the wooden
cloth used in which has found an imita-
tion in civilized life III fabric that re-
sembles camePs hair goods.
Broche is a swivel effect. 1t looks like
an embroidery on the goods, but is done
on the loom.
Observation-Disclosures
Cabochon-Large jet, steel, ETC., nail
heads or brooches, as they are some times
called.
Canotier-Applied to dress goods suit
able for boating wear.
Carreau-Check, square.
Changeant-Changesi in effects, obtained
by weaving two colors together in plain
weave.
Chappe Nelvet-Velvet in which the
pile is made of spun silk, to distinguish
ii from the raw silk article.
Chitfon-Ihe sottest thin silk materia
known.
Chine means that the warp is printed
before weaving, being then woven with
plain filling.
Choux-A large rosette, full, like a
cabbage head.
CoIIet-A small shoulder cape or collar.
Crepe LlSSe Is plain silk fabric, being
very light muslin, and one OF the light
est silks produced. Very transparent
but rather hard and crepy to the touch.
CrOise-Crossed; applied to velvet,
croise back velvet, as distinguished from
straight back velvet. The threads cross
each other at the back and form kind OF
twill.
Crystals-See bengaline.
Damier-Checked pattern, the name
coming from the checke er- board, of w hich
it is the equivalent in French.
Deux Ious-Two colors or tones.
Drap Cuir-Leather cloth. a cloth hav-
ing glossy surface and closely woven.
Drap Livree-Livery cloth.
Drap Satln-A wool dress material fin
ished so as TO have satin-like sheen,
Drap Soleil-A wool Ottoman with fiat
wide rib.
Dresden China-China effects in imita-
ton OF sty les and coIorings OF Dresden
china.
Duchesse-A satin fabric of good quail
ity and one OF the best makes OF satin.
Ecru-Iissue in the natural state-in
the gray-the color OF such goods.
En- Carreau-In square pattern
FacOnne Is the French name for fancy.
Faille de Paris-A gros grain with a
very fine rib.
GallOOn and PaSsementerie are applied
to silk, jet and metal dress trim mings,
Gaufre-By the operation OF gauIlrage
the silk fabric Is pressed into forms in
relief, which it retains for long time
The process Is applicable principally to
the lighter tabrics-pongees, la gauzes, mus
Inns, etc. by this effect satins are made
to initiate moire. In this class belong
also the duted and accordeon- plated
goods.
Gigot-Sleeves that are in an immense
puff at the top and close-iitting below the
elbow.
GIace-See changeant.
Granite-An aTmure effect common to
silk and wooden fabrics.
Codet-ROunded or organ piaits. now
worn on the back of skirts, capes. etc.
Gros de Londres, eros de Paris, eros
d. d'Airique, eros de Columbia, etc, are
all one and the same thing. They belong
to the gros grain variety and NAV be
classed as epiugles, a small rib alteruat-
ing with still smaller rib; seen in all
plain, in ali-black with figures, and in
colors.
Harlequin Checks-Those of three or
more distinct colors.
mprime-Printed.
Iridescent = Rainbow and shot color
effects.
Jardiniere-Garden effects: color effects.
Lance-Iiny dots or specks: also known
as petits pols.
Liberty Satin-A oft-finished satin of
extreme luster, that is named after the
English importer who first used the
fabric.
Loulsine-A soft finished silk of thin
texture suitable for summer wear, with a
very slight grain.
Louis XIV. Louis XIV. Regence, Di-
rectoire, Empire, etc.-Styles that pre-
vailed at certain periods in the political
history OF France, and designated either
by the name of the ruler or the form of
Government then existing.
Luxor-A fabric belonging to the family
of the satins.
Melange-Mixed. Applied to wooden
goods woven in two colors, such as the
"9epper and salt" effect
Merveilleaux belong to the satin family;
has light twill.
Miroir: Miroite-Looking-g glass effects.
Moire Poplin-W ool-tilled cords hav-
ing crinkly effect, and watered or
moired.
Moire pplicable to moire
In shiny effect. In satin it is moired
material in which the tram threads form
sort of changeable and produce the
bright effect.
Nacre-Shaded like mother-of- pearl.
Natte-Tressed or basket weave. Goods
woven into small checks in the same or