The morning times., 1895-09-15
Eem Fashions
in Fine Furs
0DISH WRAPS IN MARKET FOR
NEXT WINTER.
Seal, Sable and Astrakhan, Coats,
Capes, Collars, Muffs and
Boas, of Priceless Value.

New York, Sept. 14.-Whether the
winter promises to be severe or mild makes
not the smallest difference TO women. who
are giving good deal OF profou nd thought
to the contents Of their camphor trunks.
By the calendar of fashion it is now full
time for bringing forth from their linen
swathings and mothban atmosphere the
wraps OF last year, that the furrier may re
model, where a undermining touch is
needed, or provide whole wardrobe of
furS anew.
Many an ambit ious individual who
wrought and saved all the summer months,
to the end that she might clothe herself
in sealskin against winters chill, VIII
change her roind and her purchase on learn
ing that the price of this pelt has reached au
altitude only possible to very rich women.
This is because the seal is rapidly threat
ening to share the impressive dignity OF
the dodo in becoming extinct. The catch
this year was very small, SO wisely in con-
sequence fur seal has been deprived ofmuch
of its modish value. 1t promises to be a
BOOt utti ustu 1tt lIt ttlldIs.
and lapels of other fur wraps, and when
used as a garment, in what they call
''fun SEAL" that is, without any trim
ming, it is best made up as coat.
SMART COATS.
The most commepdable of these Goa -
has back cut to slope well with the
figure, its tail short and almost perfectly
flat and the front double-breasted, full as
a REFER and sloplng down at least two
inches longer than the back. For such
q jacket the sleeves are wide and flat and
the collar cut very like that of a shirt
waist, the rolling upper piece so arranged
to permit of its turning high about the
ears. Within prevails great beauty and
novelty OF lining, in the heaviest Duchess
satin woven in inch broad stripes of warm
seal brown and bright clear red. Occa-
sionally black satin is used, all over bro
caded in little gold-colored sea hors es
and the sloped back of the coat is held
into the figure by q narrow belt of black
suede, that fasteDs in front with 4 small
gold sliding buckle.
Fortunately nature smiles upon human
appreciation of the sable skin as a wrap
is plentiful this year, though for the first
sharp autumn days, cub bear, that long
soft dusty brown pelt. is a sufficient wrap
when made up as muffand boa.
The boa must be long to be smart, very
big in circumference and brought once and
a half round the neck. This leaves two
hanging ends of uneven length that are
crossed and drawn through a rather fat
muff, of conventional size, and then left
to fall nearly to the skirt hem. 1t is said
that she must be taught at a furrier'S Just
how to arrange the muff and boa, and if
one is ambitious to give the wrap its best
effect, how to hold the muff high up, al
most on 4 level with the chin and only
the finger tips inside. When these hand
warmers are decorated, pair of bear
fore-paw ws are beautifully mounted, the
cruel claws highly polished, and fastened
almost like pair of clasps, on the muffs
top side.
WISE EXPENDITURES.
To get the best effect in fur this winter
for the least outlay OF money, an astrakhan
cape collar and muff is a solid investment
The astrakhan of wide wave and made up
with a very fluted cape that juts out onl:
to the shoulders points on the sides, but
has long, tablike ends in front. Its collar
ought to be cut to roll very high, having a
sort of littlc box pleat at the back 10 give
fullness, and so well wired that IL will stand
like rampant well above the ears.
Under the chin cape collars made quite
recently have finishing clasp Of crossed
astrakhan tails aud their muffs have only
l;,,
ing proper is made of selected mole skins
that keep the hapes delightfully."- warm,
COMBINING FURs.
Alas, however, for the day VIXEN the
beauty and sheen of a fur was cunsid-
cred all-sufflcient ornamentation and we
wore long capes and cloaks, all wrought
of one sort of pet. Now il is thought no
sacrilege TO use as many as five different
furs on one garment, a fashion only com
forting to those who, from their old wraps,
have preserved a variety of strips and
bands and are enabled TO combine them
into u whole cape OF very doubtful beauty.
Short new capes there are, either round
or cut in four handkerchief points, with
collars of silky lynx and the frills of seal,
set in deep points OF sable with a border
of the same. 1t is also in no wise uncom-
mon to see pretty astrakhan and Persian
lamb Jackets with cuffs and collars of seal
and the fuilness of the sleeves striped in
narrow bands of the lightest brown mink.
That, by the way, is the fur to tTinrgoTns
with this winter. Ii is sold III bands not
wider than ones thumb, mounted on green,
brown or black velvet, n fine piping of
which shows ON either sS.e of the fur stffs;
or in place of the velvet the fur is set on
the hens of skirts, the fun fronts of dress
waists, sleeves and hats, between two
narrow lines of Jet. Some of the tailors
VINO make forecasts of fashions, on the
strength of their own originality, are.taIk-
ing of cloth skirts which will have every
front seam outlined in cording of jet
edged fur.
Ermine has passed into that limbo where
discarded modes await revival, and fur
riers aightforwardly designate as white
rabbit what few seasons back they
would thriftily have sold as a second
-,