The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-02

oO "a, FLU ISLANDS, April fit de
ponds entirely upon the nature of the per
son whether a lengthy visit to the FIJI
Islands would prove agreeable and inter
esting or the reverse. Any one DESTROYS o.
enjoying the luxuries and comforts Of
travel and unwilling to put up with the
hardships and difficulties should decidedly
seek other localities. The European set
Elements of Suva and Levuka offer no in
ducements, either from the standpoint Of
pleasure or instruction, which would war
rant more than mere passing glimpse
Native life can only be seen in its worst
state, and the white portion of the commu.
nifty certainly offers no attractions. With
the exception of very few miles of paved
streets in the two towns no roads exist in
the group fit even for horseback riding.
An interisland steamer plies regularly
back and forth between the various isl
ands, stopping in at different stations and
plantations located along the coast lines
for produce and freight. An opportunity
is thus afforded to get an exterior view OF
portion of the group, but the accommo-
datlons for passengers are very limited and
inferior. A small steam tug thrice weekly
leaves Suya for short trip up the Reua,
the largest river in Fiji, but even then
one is confined purely to sights of sugar
plantations and scattered white settle.
ments. Cutters can always be chartered
for long or short cruises, but the absolute
lack of country inns throws the stranger
upon the hospitality of the natives where
none of the conveniences of civilization
can ever be found.
Even in Suva and Levuka the hotels are
not good the cuisine being especially poor.
Meats, vegetables and all delicacies are i'm
ported, no effort being made to procure
home products, either because of the gen.
eral apathy which seems to exist univer-
sally or Indifference.
On the other hand, any one willing to
rough it in the strictest sense can find in
the Fiji Islands glorious opportunity to
make beautiful excursions where the Gus
toms of a novel and curious people can be
studied to good advantage and scenery of
unsurpassed grandeur can be seen. The
accom- plishment of such results me-
Dor and great personal discomfort. Many
miles must be traversed on foot across
steep and rugged mountain ranges, over
footpathS so narrow, rough and slippery
that every muscle in the body is taxed to
the utmost limit. Voyages lasting from
early morning to the dusk OF evening must
be made in canoes SO frail and insecure
that clumsy movement means immediate
capsizing. The cramped position thus ex-
perienced for hours become most fatiguing
to the novice. Rivers, streams and
brooks must be crossed continuously
either by wading or swimming, frequently
strong currents making the passage
almost perilous. The road often re-
solves itself into these very watercourses,
which must be followed with broken inter.
walls for long stretches. A fierce, pitiless
tropical rain to a greater or less extent
must be endured and accepted as matter
of course.
AT night sleep has to be secured in grass
huts with beds composed of woven straw
mats spread on the floor and the native
bamboo headrests used for pillows, with
lot of half naked, brown-skinned sayages
for companions. Unless anxious to add
burden to necessary impedi-
ments in the way of timed meats and
bareback, the traveller must content him
self with vans, dates, fruits and an occa-
sional fowl for food.
In no other manner can the aboriginal
life be viewed, and all attempts in other
directions will prove useless and end in dis
The Fiji Islands have been associated
with cannibalism for so many years that
the very words have practically become
synonymous. When first cast into the
midst of the bushy-headed inhabitants, the
fact that Great Britain now rules the group
with an iron hand is temporarily for
gotten, while sensation almost of awe is
felt
Our first view of the archipelago was OBJ
tanned from the steamer. Two tiny coral
reefs with typical white sandy beach and
heavy clumps Of cocoanut palms were
passed at sunrise. On one of these new
lighthouse is now in the course of erection
to take the place of the one completely de-
molished by the recent hurricane. Dur
ing the day we sailed among the islands
many OF large size, all very green and usu-
origin so plainly indicated in Hawaii could
be discerned, but the outlines were much
less severe in character and the general
effect far softer.
Navigation through the many channels,
owing to the numerous shoals and sub
merged reefs, is very intricate and danger
GUS. VIII Lew, the largest of the group,
from which the name is derived (Fiji being
a INSTRUMENTATION of the word), came
into full view in the afternoon. The top
most crags and peaks, although not over
1000 feet in height, were enveloped in a
veil of clouds. 1t was dusk when the reef
encircled basin on which Suva is situated
was entered, the voyage from the eastern
most to the westward portions of the ISL
ands, a distance of $50 miles, having con-
Sumed fourteen hours.
Just as the sun sank behind the hills
our first close view of the famous man
eater was obtained. The picture was one
not easily forgotten. On one side ex-
tended the dark-green mountain slopes.
cut with innumerable ravines and preci-
pieces, gorges with a fringe of tufted palms
skirting the waters edge; the sea of most
delicate view stretched away on the other
side, long line of white breakers flashing
over the coral reef in the distance; over.
head the skies formed a canopy tropicaIly
soft and beautiful, every bank of clouds
forming distinct and individual tint.
from the most brilliant scarlet
to the daintiest purple, pink, yellow and
golden.
AS darkness soon followed the lights of
the town began sparkling and glistening
like so many tirehies.
Suva proved to be most matter fact.
unromantic and commonplace little spot.
The total population of $500 seems to be
DIVIDED rather equally between imported
Hlndoos, Europeans, natives and other
Polvnesians. The East Indians, as a rule.
are such as having served through their five
years lndenture, have taken off small
homesteads and become the gardeners and
Ia 49, k1<a