The San Francisco call., 1895-12-03

arrived at the hotel as promptly as him
SELF He carries pair of shoes for every
day in the week, and his haberdashery and
hose include some of the most unique
exhibits between the two oceans. Mr..
Kirk also has many jewels. He wore a
huge pearl, thickly surrounded with dia-
monds, as q tiepin, yesterday, while on
his fingers were several very handsome
rings.
Mr.. Kirk says the styles for all kinds of
clothing have changed greatly of late. and
the clothes he exhibited certainly showed
there had been remarkable changes. He
says San Francisco is away behind the
times, and that it takes a year for style
to work it's way across the continent from
New York. He lays this to the San Fran
cisco tailors, who, he thinks, are badly
STEPPED in silurianism.
Instead of the Willy-boy overcoat, which
provoked such mirth in some quarters and
rage in others OH its introduction, Mr.
Kirk showed the present latest thing III the
line of that garment. 1t was beautiful
manilla-colored coat, single-breasted, en-
tirely plain and without single pocket.
1t buttoned almost snug to the chin, and
was so short that it did not reach within
three inches of his knees. The king, who
has become known as such connolsseur
in all articles of Dress spread his treasures
out for inspection, explaining meanwhile
the many recent changes in wearing
apparel.
breasted, very much shorter than last sea-
sons and conforming very much to your
waist.
"Vest, single breasted, cut very high, no
collar; fy front in fancy vests, is also much
worn; trousers much smaller. Sack coats
are in lighter checks, and should only be
worn in the morning or While travelling.
"Cutaway coats are now decidedly short,
and the long wasted, with flaps and patch
top pockets, are much in favor. Plaid and
also black goods are used for this style.
prince AIberts are not SO much i'll favor
now, but as yet they are very correct for
afternoons, especially in attending half
outdoor meetings, such as horse shows.
"Although cutaways were the rage with
US this season, for evening events full dress
must be made very plain, and it is still
quite correct to use ribbons Tor the cuffs,
but it is now bad taste to display much
jewelry in evening dress. No diamonds
| should then be worn. Small Roman-fin-
| ished gold ball studs are the correct thing,
| and if YOU don't care to use ribbons for
Your cuffs small gold ball buttons are very
proper in overcoats. The proper length in
| light goods is about three inches above the
| knees; dark goods, not below the knee; I;
| the back is very straight, ana the coat
iOosc diiu IOoIHy, ~ Po VA VIZ oo'-
| side.
"Ifa man wants to be considered we'll
| dressed he must always have his suits of
the same goods throughout, not trousers
of one color, vest of another and coat of
another.
"In hats, derbys, brown or black, are now
all the rage.
"The height is much lower since Novem-
| Der 1.
"In collars the high lay down is called
in. 1t is out of date and the straight
standing collar is correct. 1t is rather
high and meets all the way in front. In
ties, puffs are the rage. They are very
small, made with satin finish, black body,
interviewer in small bright figures or with
red stripes. For evening solid black or
white are the best.
I'm shoes the points are gone. AS / said
before dress is an art, and to be artistic in
| dress you must give it some study and
| have ideas of your own. Ii you go accord