The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-25

Society is well represented at Del Monte,
and all arrangements are under the
auspices of the Pacific Coast Pony and
Steeplechase Racing Association, so the
i. band of fifty pieces gives concerts not only
during the evening, but most of the after
noon as well, and the Japanese lanterns
and cordons of incandescent lights twinkle
among the trees, converting the beautiful
grounds into veritable fairyland. How
ever, more attractive than everything put
together are the numerous lovely women,
exquisitely gowned, who learnedly discuss
the relative merits of the polo teams, the
ponies and all subjects appropriate to the
occasion.
The CONNECTIONS dearest to the feminine
heart will be seen at the grand ball which
=. will conclude the festivities, so next week
L shall have the descriptions of several
good dresses recently worn at Monterey.
An excellent dressmaker sent home a
few days ago an evening frock for a young
matron who has put on second mourning.
1t is of white glace taffeta with line stripes
of black and printed figures. The skirt is
of moderate length. and the corsage is cut
round and is decollete and has belt of
black taffeta ribbon. Cut jet makes a
handsome yoke and epaulettes. The tops
of the large pulled elbow sleeves are shlrred
to conform to the outline of the shoulder.
A novelty in the shape of a stole embroid-
cred and fringcd with Jet completes the
costume.
An outing gown just from Paris is of
white flannel. The skirt is not as volumin-
Gus as usual and it is finished with dou-
bic set of white-silk stitching. The jacket
is caught in at the back with a broad,
white, leather belt. The front falls loosely
and the band continues underneath and
fastens over the chemisette with a gold,
enameled buckle.
Fichus are exceedingly popular and are
seen in chiffon of every color, trimmed
with frills and edged with lace, making
pretty additions to any ordinary crepon
or bright silk gown. They look best when
brought through the waistband to hang
with loose ends, but some girls wear them
crossed over the bust ana tied at the back
into bows, while others simply drape them
round the shoulders and tie them in front,
fastening them with numerous diamond
pins. Young women who are not slim are
wise in avoiding fichus and, speaking of
stout women, reminds me that Worth al
ways advised them to wear black hats, say
ing they were most becoming, and such is
the case-why no one has ascertained.
= have never heard of bridal tea being
given here, but they are swell functions,
everything being snowy white, including
the refreshments offered; but, then, that
is easily managed. Dreamed oysters,
creamed chicken salads, ices and cakes
are excellent when so prepared, and green
leaves are permitted among the flowers
and so are lettuce leaves for the salads.
However, a good housekeeper or a chef
can tell you all the particulars. And
apropos of brides, one is to have delight
full gown of white satin lined with rose
lined taffeta-which sheds delicate glow
through the satin-the bodice OF which IS
edged with exquisite opal-like sequins APP
plique on pink satin. A girdle orna-
mented in a similar manner is most art
istic, the design being ancient Egyptian;
the sleeves have just touch of it, and both
neck and sleeves are completed with most
exquisite lace. The skirt requires no de-
scription, being absolutely plain and ex-
cellently well hung. For receiving at
teas, etc.. this same young woman will
have toilet of pink mousseline de sole,
mounted on white satin, the skirt and
yoke being of an open-work design. You
can imagine how charming is the effect.
Some novelties in muslins are being
warmly welcomed. They are pale blue,
dotted and covered with pink bouquets.
Girls, as the lining called "Rustling
Taffeta" is to be had in this City see it be-
fore purchasing silk to line muslin or
organdy dresses. as it answers admirably
and is to be had in white or cream for 20
cents per yard.
Do not grudge so cents a. yard
for real French organizes. The gen.
uine article is worth that amount,
for they wash and clean perfectly.
One of our social leaders who dresses with
rich taste wears these exquisite fabrics
over a foundation of white glace, and
they are so made that many changes
are made with the one lining. Such dresses
are sweetly pretty for little card parties
and informal dinners, especially if the
wearer is the fortunate possessor of some
good lace, which gives graceful finish to
the simplest gown.
To give an idea of the inexpensiveness
of such a frock, which can be worn half
dozen times and then be washed, 1 will
give you the figures:
Organdy, IL yards at so cents........... So 90
Rustling Taffeta for skirt, yards at 20
cents: .-...---......-......-.. SO
Lace and insertion for waist. ............... 90
Fall OF lace for foundation skirt. 10
Satin for bow skirt yards at 40 cents. 80
To encircle waist and tie In bow same, 3
yards at 35 cents ................... ! Is
Total. ..............sl IS
SO for S12 65 or say S13, you have all the
material, which many good dressmaker
will be glad to make up during this dull
season for S., and in all cases have quoted
the prices of the best material; for instance
the organdy 1 quote at 30 cents was IS
cents all the first part of the summer, now
such fabrics are being closed out. You
. will find them infinitely more satisfactory
than cheap India silks, which have to go
TO the cleaners when soiled, and never
look quite the same afterward, the stiffness
seemingly having deserted the Innings, and
unless they are sent back and made over
. by the madame, can only be worn around
the house. while, as friend of mine re-
marked, "Really, the organdies look
prettier every time they come back from
the laundry"
am much enamored of toilet made,
as / have suggested, of white silk gauze
frha ct-irf 10 fT1ll and nm