The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-02-27

I
 was the Cardinals red hat, and the oth 1 CT, worn on occasions of ceremony in
 stead of a crown, belonged to the Arch l ducal house of Austria. The Austrian
 hat Is so highly prized even at the pres l ent day, that it is locked up in ches
 in the town hall, which has nine key
 and nine guardians, each of which il
 entrusted with one key, necesstatinl
 the meeting of the nine before the ha
 can be exhibited to the admiring gazt of the loyal Austrians.
 Louis XI. of France wore very shab l by felt hat, in the band of which ht | tucked a number of little effigies O. saints, and when he was feeling pc | culiarly out of condition and blood thirsty he was apt to invoke their bless | ing upon his uprighteous acts. This particular hat (which appears to have been his only one) was encircled by 2 1 magnificent string of rubies, whicf blazed forth In glorious contrast to theii 1 dingy surroundings.
 The Germans at this time wore ab. surdly small hats, but those of the
 Dutch had comfortable broad brims
 
 a most sensible precaution in the turbu- lent times that ushered in the wars of | the roses. About this time all men
 high and low, with the exception only of the prentices of London, wore hats Ladies wore them also, and ungainly hideous, steeple-crowned fabrics they were, as may readily be seen from the representations that have come down to us.
 In the time of good Queen Bess the courtiers affected the Spanish beaver
 or sombero, a very convenient affair,
 which could be looped down in such a way as to entirely disguise the face.
 The French hat of this period was smaller, richly adorned with feathers and much worn by the Scottish nobility.
 Upon the continent they were rival factions, whose insignia, instead of be- ing either that of a white or red rose. was a hat or cap, and bloody wars were fought by the adherents of the ''Hats and Caps" for supremacy.
 In the early times of the Puritan par ty, when Charles I. was king, these fiery zealots inveighed against Eye villianous invention and gross impiety of ye stee- pie crowns" but we find a few years af- ter this very steeple-crowned hat, so roundly abused by the Puritans, be- come the mark and sign of their party.
 The members of the high court of justice, who sentenced the king to death, all wore steeple-crowned hats, whereas their rivals, the cavaliers, wore per- haps the most fetching thing in hats ever Tread of In books or dreamt of in dreams" The cavaliers hat with its elegant crown and brim, set off by a dancing plume in ostrich feathers, is we'll known to all students of this era Passing allusions should be made to the hat of Henry VIII, the fac-simile of which is worn by the beef-eaters of the tower to-day.
 The hat of the time of Charles IT. was not so graceful as it's predecessor. although it may have served to set off the somewhat swarthy and saturnine features of the Merry Monarch. Speak ing of the Merry Monarch brings to mind the Quakers' hat. It is related that when George Fox, the Quaker, was admitted to the royal presence he did not remove his broadbrim, where upon the king doffed his own headgear, seeing which, Fox said, Put on thy hat, friend Charles" To which his ma jesty replied, Not so friend George; it is customary for only one man to be covered here" William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was as ob- stinate as Fox himself His father, who was not only vice-admiral, but friendly with the king, offered to insure him against molestation in his opinions so long as he promised to uncover to the king, the duke of York, and himself. but this he 1atly declined to do, so the fiery old admiral turned him out of doors.
 Uncovering the head is one of the old est of courtesies, and in Charles Is time even the ladies doffed their head gear in salutation. It was the custom to wear the hat at meals, and this con- tinued until the end of the seventeenth century.
 In books of this era are to be found quaint woodcuts of the hats worn by the country folk, which were generally steeple crowned, with long and broad strings hanging down.
 But it was in Queen Annes time that the hat-so like a Dolly Warden hat first made it's appearance, and held it's own right down to the middle of the reign of George IT., when a series of hideous bonnets replaced it.
 Mems hats in the time of Queen Anne were gradually losing their beauty; feathers were discarded, being replaced by colored cockades, with the addition of rich lace and handsome bindings of gold and silver. These were poor sub stitutes for the hat of the cavalier, with its flowing ostrich plumes of snowy white or martial scarlet, with which he gave the grand salute, sweeping the ground with his feathers when lowing to sovereign or fair dame.
 The cooked hat came into fashion in the time of William and Mary, and to this day is worn as part of the naval full dress.
 The first appearance in Europe of the cylinder hat which is the direct ances- tor of the silk hat of to-day, was when Franklin appeared in Paris as the | champion of American independence. | It was a singularly ugly, tapering, | affair, but it carried all | before it, and when the young bloods. .adets of ancient French houses, re- urned from fighting the British in the United States, they brought back the ound hat with them to Paris as a cur a1 1I,v l.,