The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

ts 3~n
>~~@>0~-->~~---~~~~~"0~o-
center of the bonnet is composed of lisse
and sequins, which form pointed over the
hair behind; the lisse and sequin wings
stand out we'll on either side there are
pleated Esse rosettes in front and cluster
OF pansies stand out from the back. This
unique and most becoming bonnet may be
worn with or without strings, which re-
minds me that the handsome widow on
California street, near Octavia, wears a
bonnet this summer. 1t suits her admir-
ably. Altogether, she is one of the best
dressed women in the City as her clothes
mt and hang we'll, and in addition she has
an air and style which arrest the attention.
rumor is afloat that two Eastern ladies
OF society have been seen in narrow skirts
and small sleeves, but although we cannot
expect to wear much longer our lovely
balloon and leg-of-mutton arm-covers, l do
not imagine that we will consent to any
sudden change.
1 saw not few familiar faces at big
Post-street store last week when the silk
sale was in progress, and l, knowing that
brocades are to be extensively used during
the fall and winter, was more than sur
prised to see beautiful fabrics selling for
one-ffth their real value. Good buyers
will take advantage of such sales. Fancy
a lovely dark-blue satin brocaded with
shaded autumn leaves sold for dollar
yard. Really such an absurd figure. l
only wish l owned it now, for it would
have made gorgeous cloak a la domino
for evening wear. Any one can dress on
small sum yearly who always has the
ready money in hand so as to take advan-
Narr - II L.
had to turn their backs on the silks will,
many of them, have to pay later twice the
money for inferior articles.
Apropos of long cloaks the cloak Just
made for the Princess Helene in London is
a beauty, being composed of black velvet,
lined and faced with white fox. The
collar is huge and very handsome. 1t is
called Russian cloak.
An opera-cloak of gray brocaded crepe.
lined with rose-pink satin, will shortly be
worn here. 1t has a deliciously pretty
hood, around which is frilled ROSY gray
chiffon; this also edges the pretty, short
cape, which takes the place of sleeves.
Wide rose-colored satin ribbons tie at the
throat.
Our dressmakers delight in making such
garments during the dull season, and an
other is being made which will accompany
its owner to Europe this fall. 1t will be
composed of an exquisite India shawl, but
| will tell you more about it later on, when
it has been completed.
Embroideries in gold are to play an i'm
portant part this coming season, especially
in mbination with black satin and black
silk.
In the near future we will see many
jackets with short basques. One has been
designed for a stylish matron, and oh if
any of you possess some old-fashioned
fowered gauZe, look for it at once. 1t is
the rage in Paris, made over silk They
must be of the most delicate and ethereal
tints. The hand-painted silk gowns con-
tinue to be the "grand chic" and fair
American has just appeared in Paris in
gown Of pineapple batiste over white taf-
fetas, which was painted with quaint gar
lands of buttercups and wild grasses. The
bodice was covered from the throat to
waist with butter-colored Valenciennes
lace frills. The handkerchief composed
entirely of lace is shown, but there are
few purchasers. Mouchoirs are now
marked with entwined letters, although
the monogram is preferred by some When
separate letters are used they must be very
small.
There is tendency among even the
best laundrymen to bring home our hand
kerchiefs in a limp state, and if we
demonstrate they next time are returned
as stiff as pasteboard, but | have found that
a judicious amount of argument usually
produces the desired result for either ex-
treme Is quite as severely criticized by
''those who know it all" as an out of date
style of shoe would be, and although shoe
dealers continue to assure US that the
Ton hn lu fryin
vogue, many who make careful study OF
their best points have never patronized
this style, as it certainly draws attention
to along foot and worst of all, adds about
an inch to it. Many women here who walk
considerably complain of sensitive feet,
and the reason is that most of them will
not wear sensible walking shoes. The
light, thin sole of the house shoe is not
meant for long walks, as it does not offer
sufficient protection to the soles of the
feet from the roughness of the ground.
Excellent shoes are to be found in San
Francisco, but it is a matter Of surprise to
me that more do not own their lasts and
have their shoes made to order, for after
the first expense, involving few extra
dollars, no one would grudge the small
difference in cost when the comfort and
well-being of their feet are considered, and
proper fitting shoes will wear much longer
than those which half fit, and, rememb ber,
a shoe which does not properly hold the
heel is sure to cause trouble. An ex-
president of the Century Club in this City
has foot which is so beautifully shaped |
that 1t was used by one of our most talented
women artists here as a model of "per |
feet foot" do not think it has ever been !
disfigured with toothpick horror.
Speaking of ready-made things French |
woman, as l have previously remarked, |
would as soon think of flying as of wear
ing ready made corsets, for we can readily |
comprehend how many diseases may be |
caused by iniudicious compression of the |
body in certain directions. For instance |
there is no doubt that many cases of can
Ger are directly traceable to an old idea |
that the bosoms should be pushed up, |
which, OF course, meant a very consider |
able amount of pressure on the most sensi- |
tive glands. The pressing of the floating |
ribs into internal organs is a frequent |
cause OF disease. Mind, am not an ad- |
mirer of the uncorseted woman, for there is |
no possible reason, except in few special |
cases, why we should not wear this article |
of apparel without any deleterious results |
if we are careful in having proper care |
taken by the makers.
1t has been decided East and in Europe
that metallic cOrsets are to be worn in IN /