The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-08-19

gateways and frowning barbicans. As you turn your sad steps away the whole massive entirety rises higher and high CT In the air till amid the mists of dis tance 1t seems floating If to join the pinnacles of heaven.
 St. Malo, immediately opposite Di- nard, Is worth two dozen of it in every particular. In fact if the hen-pecked, kept in Dinard against everyg appeal for release, could not be feTied over to St Malo at least once day, he would probably have committed suicide long before the writing of this letter.
 Every second town in Brittany is named after saint; and most all these saints came over from Great Britain when the Anglo-Saxons drove the Bri- tons out Dinard Is not a saintly name, No saint of reputable calendar would stoop SO low.
 St. Malo is on an island. That Is Brittany island, an island at high tide; at other times vast outlay of mud and sand with protuberance in the middle, The St. Malo protuberance, however, is quite a protuberance; large enough for a town about four times the size of the Green, with a church in the middle and high walls all around, The view of it from Dinard is fine, interesting, re- freshing and attractive. You long to get over; and you fabrlcate ingenious excuses for repeating and prolonging stays. Singularly enough you find that all the reputable and full grown men at Dinard are engaged in the same busi- ness. The great desire of the full grown and reputable aforesaid seems 70 be to get away from Dinard as often as possible and to stay away each time as long as possible. The women divide their time between showing off their frocks to one another and trying to make little boys believe that they are men. That is when they are not en- gagged in things that are radically bad, Any man with drop of American blood in his veins would have felt that particular drop spontaneously boiling had he heard the words a slimy French count the other day was pouring into the ears of a New York married wo- man of well-known family, and had seen the pleased smile with which she received the slime. Heavens What elS we COIllluS CO dS et Idlloll!
 But to St Malo. The town is packed within it's walls and cant grow outside of them until the French, some centu- ries hence, learn the methods of re- claiming submerged lands. Its streets are narrow and tortuous. Its high, overhanging buildings are of granite, are hundreds of years old, have very high and very steep roofs, with still higher, massive chimneys, and look as solid as the rock on which they are founded and out of whose material they are built. St. Malo is full of quaint shops, quarreling sailors, queerly capped peasant girls, quick-witted boys and questioning strangers. You can wander about 1t streets by the hour and see entertaining sights all the while. At any of the numerous hotels you find a first-rate midday meal for sixty cents. There are cake shops, antiquity shops and fruit stands. You may and you al- ways do before starting on your dreary return to Dinard, pull up at the Conti- mental cafe in the Place Chateaubriand, where the band plays, and have bran- dy or whiskey soda, which will remind you of the Quinnipack club.
 In St. Malo there is no necessity of hearing or seeing things offensive. The people look good, busy and happy. St. Malo has its stinks, of course; no French town is complete without themL but they are good, old-fashioned anti quated stinks which were sniffed by Dagueschin, Chateaubriand and other heroes of the past and which are en- tirely free from the modern frills and pretences of Dinard's stinks St. Malo is connected with the main land by a causeway broad enough for a row of houses on one side and a tramway on the other. Inside the causeway are ca- pacious docks with high gates to keep the water in; on the outside beach which reaches to Parame, more than a mile away. Why people do not stay at Parame and do stay at Dnard is won- der, for at Parame the beach is long and broad and breezes from the actual sea circulate. Moreover, Parame (please spell it alright and put the ac- cent on the final "e') possesses the best hotel within a circuit of fifty miles and the dearest little English church and parson in Brittany.
 An eminent New Havener has lately made and promulgated the discovery that if the top of your head is cool you are well and the rest of the world is happy; but if, per contre, the top of your head is not cool, you are not we'll and the rest of the world is correspon- dingly unhappy. So to do good to your self and to all mankind, see to it that the top of your head Is constantly cool |
 FERNANDEZ.