davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
Il STRANGE PEOPLE.
fMritten for The Herald.O

CWritten for The Herald)
I saw a grand structure with gorgeous
Spire
Filled with throngs Of strange people in
And they beckoned to me saying-"Wan-
And be cleansed and redeemed from
the clutches of sim
Then entering, I saw, as a segment of
fire,
Stretching wide. overreaching pulpit and
A banner of silk. illumined. unfurled,
With, this legend, My kingdom is not
of this world.
Disclosed unto me by an unfailing sign,
By glance, or some token that served
as a test,
The thoughts, and the hopes, and desires
of each breast:
Such errors as chickering's. strivings for
Ambitions and jealousies. seekings for
vanities outcropping in dress and dis
play
Astonished, I pondered;-are these the
elect;
Are these for the church or the play
Has this giddy throng by its pastor
msled
From the fountain of life, drank false
waters instead;
Or wandered misguided. where no light
appeared?-
No, no, their own hands had the motto
upreared
rebuke to their folly;-the answer
seemed hurled
From the banner; MY kingdom is not
of this world.
Then pondered more deeply; have these
less deceit.
Less envy and meanness than others we
meet;
Is there more of humility, less of the
pride
OF riches, dress, station, and follies be-
side?
AS waited reply, from the past smote
my ears,
Harsh jangling of dogmas. and clash
ing of spears;
shorn priest and fierce layman in wild
To upbuild the kingdom that is not of
this world.
1 turned from the throng and passed
through the door,
Out in the green fields with the turf
for a floor;
And the blue arch o'erhead, where soft
winds careSs:
And a linnet arrayed in the same rus
set dress
As of old. warbled gaily a sweet simple
strain
That brought back the trust of my child
hood again.
Then ] knew that the kingdom of God,
and his love
Is not of this world. but the bright one
N ALBERT SHERMAN.
Salt Lake City, July, 1895.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
OF INTEREST
TO WOnEN.

each ear, in a way suggesting a por-
trait Of Lebrun herself AS to the
! lowered fabrics, they possibly give
more sign Of permanence than the
rest, though it would be rash to pre-
dict a conquest for what has been
tried so many times and has hitherto
! failed.
The Manufacturers Difficulties.
Often enough in the last hundred
years the manufacturers have pressed
] figured stuffs upon the public, but
never with any permanent success.
The fault has not been with the dress
makers, nor conscientiously with the
public. Western taste has not been
able to assimilate them.
In England there is to be noticed
an effort to put lowered silks upon
the fashion by artificial forcing, but
the movement viii come to naught, for
the simple reason that they cannot
be worn. The only opportunity Tor
them is in the court trains, and court
trains are not worn every day. The
ordinary dress of English women IS
more severely given over to form and
style at the expense of decorauOnethan
that of Paris, and a tailor gown made
of brocade would be nothing short of
an infamy. Evidently the unpopular
ity Of Powered fabrics IS not under
stood, or else the recent appeal to
Englishmen would not have been made
to help on the industry by wearing
Powered vests. The form of mems
dress is even more antagonistic to
decorated stuffs than is that of the
women. / t is about as nearly an outer
skin as it is possible for dress to be.
Men look no more pretty than women
do with a tattoo spread over the alb
domen. and even the high patronage
of the Prince of Wales, which has
been solicited. cannot make such an
idea acceptable to fashion. If it is
tried, one of two things will happen;
either it will be dropped as soon as the
novelty ceases to amuse, or else it
will modify the forms of mems dress,
developing the vest into a long slxirted
Waistcoat, such as was fashionable
when men did formerly wear brocades.
Which it is likely to be there is no
reason TO ask.
The form of garment that suits dec
GRATED fabrics is loose and flowing. 1t
is sufficiently unconstrained by fitting
not to suggest a cuticle, and to allow
the qualities of the texture to be dis
played for themselves. Thus the dec
Grafton would seem to enrich the fabric
and not the person. Such garments
as those the orient has shown us, and
the aesthetic idea in them is at the
opposite pole from that arrived at by
western dress.
Ease and Comfort in Dress.
Still there is a growing taste from
Paris Just now, for the comparatively
loose and flowing Blouses. full sleeves
and large skirts are the fashion. The
latest skirt rays out like a whirling
dervish Therefore, lowered fabrics
have, at this moment. more than usual
hope of success. Is there then strug-
gle on between the western ideal of
form and the eastern ideal of decOra-
ton? I know nothing about it; those
that live Will see, but 1 may venture
an observation.
The field from which fashion draws |
its inspiration is immensely larger |
than il was. Once Paris fashion ca |
tered to a small number in a limited |
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

mental nails. The leather is divided
into squares, which are first pierced
with the bead punch. and then
bronzed, leaving smooth, narrow
strips between the squares The
space above this pocket, which is in
tended to hold paper or bills, is
colored dark with the needle. On both
sides of this pocket, the wood is
punched with the grayer and bronzed,
leaving the outlines of the floral or
namentation, whose edges are burnt,
and the surfaces painted with blue,
red and yellow oil colors; a border
composed of squares arranged dia-
mond-fashion and painted alternately
greed and red surrounds the whole
Across the ornamented surface
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
the season.
Reiuvenating Old Styles.

Among the principal revivals have
been fschus, turbans, long shoulder
seams called of 1880, and Powered ma
terials.
The fischu came from the wardrobe
of Marie Antoinette. which wardrobe,
lof the Trianon period, was early in
kMarch laid before Parisians in a play
lat the Porte St. Martin, eXquisitively
Reconstructed by Doucet. Everybody
Said of these costumes; Behold the new
#Etyles. 1t is Doucet that has launched
he mode But 1t was not so. The
lovement Louis XVI dwindled down
% the fischu, and this soon merged
$nto a variation of the little shoulder
&apes familiar for two years past
it is not a reminder of Marie
Antoinette that the public wants The
long shoulder persists, particularly in
evening dress, but it always suggests
1880. and has not yet reached the stage
OF humiliation. Its sole significance
appears to be a reaction from Shout
ders that have been too high. The
turban idea, of more interest. is de-
veloped in certain hat trimmings,
where the band is drawn tight under
ar overhanging crown, and tied az
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

ist between the material and the form.
Much also is to be sensitively felt;
for if a, style is to run the legitimate
cycle of a style. which is to say a
coure of two or three years, ii mus re-
fleet social conditions. Various things
have been tried and abandoned. The
monent is difficult
Fashion all spring has been turning
over and over the modes of the past
hundred years or SO, to see if among
them are any that may serve as a
point of new departure. \ number
have been sci up, to try what the pub
lie would have to say to them: models
of Louis XVI and of the 1S39-40 period
mainly. And thus far these tentative
models have been the only novelties of
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

area, and the mass of the world wore
costume that never changed; once
a social incident that concerned France
alone could color the mode; but now
fashion labors for the round globe,
and all womankind upon it, and to a
clientele that looks upon France not
as the centre of the world, but as a
province of it merely, on whom local
occurrences in France have correspond
ingly diminished influence Neither
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

would supplant it has not this versa
tility. When everybody has got
bishop sleeve, everybody will have got
one, and all will be said and done
Or, SO it seems, for it is all of a width
to the waist, and is there confined into
a band. However, there is no knowing
what the dressmakers may do when it
comes TO the pinch, for their resources
are inscrutable
Another Sleeve Novelty.
Another new sleeve. with more
seeming possibilities in the way
OF design, is that which has
been transformed out of the
balloon, and drops to the elbow like
doubled ruff1e. 1t is enormously
wide, AID Is particularly beautiful
When accordion plated. The blouse
should be plated, too, and as the edge
OF the blouse falls in a line with the
edge of the sleeve. the effect is some
what that of a cape. In a delightful
gown for Trouville is seen this idea
IN modification. The skirt is of al
paca, pale mauVe, the blouse of
mauVe mousseiine de sole. accordion
plated, and falling over the belt all
round, and the sleeve is an accordion
plating of the moUsseline that falls
to the elbow and is confined round the
armhoie with huge puff of deep VIC
let satin, wide over the arm and
growing narrower underneath, sling
shape. The upper edge of this puff is
set IN the arm seam. violet belt. The
neck has peart-embToidered mauve
passementerie set in and shaped in
sort of gusset form. with a point in
back and front, building it up to the
ears, and over this turns a muslin
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
each bow requiring eleven

ribbons, each bow requiring eleven
inches.
The decoration of these pieces are
little landscapes, similar to those in
Japanese picture books, donv in water
colors, or simply black and white, re-
lieved here and there with a touch
of scarlet in the flowers or the
plunage of the birds.
If the maker has not skill to do
this. a charming effect could be pro-
duced by covering the spasteboard
foundation with the pretty crepe pa
per now SO much in vogue, fastening
with ribbon of the color chosen, and
ornamented with irregular dashes of
gold or silver paint.
MARY ]. Stafford.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
SUMMER HANDIWORK.
Some Charming Gifts For Autumn
Bazars and Anniversaries That
Are Easily Made in Hot Weather
on the Piazza.

Year by year the pleasant custom of
gift-making is on the increase, and
many bits of fancy-work, which help
TO while away the summer hours on
hotel piazzas are destined for Christ
mas remembrances or some of the
autumn bazars which help to raise
funds for the various charities on
whose 'reEources such constant de-
mand is made during the winter. So
there is always a welcome for novel
ties or pretty variations of old ideas.
\ convenient and novel article is
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

There is a crisis in dress. The late
style has exhausted itself, and need
is TO start fresh on a new; which is
not as easy as saying Jack Robinson,
or as making {. novel garment out Of
an accidental miscut. though the ma
jUrity of folks may so think.
For much is 10 he considered. There
must be, for one thing, an understand
ing between the dressmakers and man
ufacturers, so that harmony shall eX-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
= Hanging Tablet.

which may be used for various pur-
poses. It consists of a board ninety
two inches long by nine wide, fur
nished at the. top with two metal
hooks to suspend it on the wall and
ornamented with burnt work and
colored painting on wood and leather.
The middle of the space is occupied by
fiat pocket, made of a piece of
leather seven inches wide and six
deep. decorated with q. strip of leather
an inch broad, fastened by orna-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

stretch strips of leather of various
| lengths and widths, decorated by the
platinum needle, with tiny stars or
wheels. Bronze hooks at the corners
and distributed at irregular intervals
! over the surface hold a bunch OF KEYS,
| scissors, etc.
This would be an acceptable and
useful article for busy mans office,
if made in leather, decorated solely
with ornamental nails, and, if skill
/ permits, the owners initials or mono
gram in the center of the pocl1et. For
a collegian'S room, it might be COW
cred with silk, with bands of ribbons
of various lengths and widths in the
college colors, while my lady's
boudoir' could scarcely have a dam
tier ornament than a hanging tablet
covered with white duck, embroidered
or painted with tiny flowers in what
is known as the Dresden" style.
Another pretty affair may help
| solve for many a girl the problem of
this years Christmas gift to father,
| brother or friend. A piece of heavy
cardboard, nine and one-half inches
long and seven and one-half wide. is
covered with brown calfs4lin, on which
the design of the lucky spider is
painted, the web in gold. the spider in
dark brown, and the fly in black The
little block calendar is gummed on.
a braided leather cord is used to sus-
pend it. If one has not the skill to
paint, the idea can be carried out by
fastening on a piece of cardboard,
covered with silk or satin, one Of the
webs containing spider and fly
which can be bought for a few cents
at any shop that deals in Japanese
goods.
Veil Board.
Here is an article which will GER
tainly fulfill the annual demand for
something new" one of the charm
ing little trines whose value lies less
in its novelty, and the fact that II
was made by the donor own hands.
Besides the purpose spr which it was
originally designed, it would also be
of service hung beside dressing
table as a cushion for hat or veil
pins. The board is fourteen inches
long and five inches wide, with a han
die three and a half inches 1n-Gength.
and, after being covered with a layer
of perfumed wadding, has second
cover of rich white silk damask, on
which is a spray Of DIVERS wrought
in old gold and moss green. For this
design, Roman floss silk is best; The
heavy thread gives better effect than
the lighter silks. The handle, after
being gilded or pain-ed with the
pretty enamel paints in any aprro
ate shade, is ornamented with full
bow of old gold rep ribbon an inch
and half wide.
Flower Pot Covers.
Covers of all kinds are offered to
hide the plain red earthen pot, but
many prove injurious TO the r:ant,
and are, therefore, Objectionable to
real lovers of flowers. Paper covers,
though not harmful, are rarely pleas
ing to the eye. and, therefore, the
pretty variety shown in the illustra-
ton will be specially welcome.
This model has six pieces of card
board eight inches high, four and a
half inches broad at the top, and
three and q half at the bottom, but
these measurements, and also the
number of pieces, can be changed to
suit the size of the pot The pieces in
the model are tied together with cigar
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
TUnOrs

Fibroid, Ovarian and other tumors
cured by electrolysis and other means
without the knife, which is rarely nee
essary. For pamphlet and references
address, with 10 cents in stamps
Worlds Dispensary Medical Associa
ton, 663 Main ST.. Buffalo, N. Y.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

needle-worked Valois collar, with
very original effect.
Chose caps are at the top of many
! sleeves, which throws the fulness
down low on the arm in 1880 style.
and as it gets more and more the
fashion TO cut shoulder seams very
long, these caps furnish a. good way
to lengthen down a shoulder made too
high.
Neck Decorations.
That opera bouffe neck garniture
that consists of a magic bunch under
each ear has died the death from ex-
cess. When such gearing comes TO be
hung like sausages in the shops at a
few sous apiece its day is done. Ele-
gance has supplanted it with Valois.
that is to say. with a turnover collar.
Cuffs may be worn or not, but the col
tar is obligatory; it is the latest chic.
The burning and difficult questions
of how many godets to put in ones
skirt can be shortly answered by side
plating the Skint all round, or by
gathering it all round, as some ex-
IRENE eleganteS do who wish to be
1880 throughout; or by plating it
round the front and sides and having
five godets in the back or, finally, by
having it plain in front, wide box
pleat on each side and godets from
thence round. Width is the only real
necessity.
The Newest Fabrics.
Everything is unbleached and the
talk is all of string color. y model
dress has the skirt of string colored
canvas and a bodice and gigot sleeves
of String-colored taffeta, the bodice
front cut away in the lower part so
as to leave only a yoke that fastens
across over a 'bouffant blouse front of
mauve gauZe. High neck, with white
needlework collar and cuffs.
Alpaca is much worn, but mostly
for skirts alone by fastidiouS people.
1t makes a useful skirt; it looks Ike
silk and is much more durable. But
near the face it does not look so well;
like all rejecting material it is unbe-
coming and that without being beau
tifu1 in texture. When Jackets are
made of it, they have facings of silk
or velvet or even cloth. There is no
more useful or Fashionable dress for
general wear than an alDaca skirt
and muslin blouses. But do net choose
black; a rejecting surface is particu-
larly horrible in black. All tints can
be had and white alpaca is being
very much worn. ADA CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
SONGS OE LOVE

Where love may make his nest,
There shall my soul abide;
Inc sun may pass from east to west
The ocean wander WIDE
But love, my dear, where er I be-
Shall make a heaven on earth for me.
L cannot hear the birds
Whose breasts the blossoms GEM
There is such music in Loves word
/ have no heart for theml
Sweet sing the birds from land to sea,
but Love sings sWeeter songs for me!
What is the sweetest song
The rarest bird can sing,
To love that lasts Il whole life long,
And then 70 heaven takes wing?
1t is, on earth-in heaven above
One song one song of love-of love!
You will not see my name
Writ on the heights above:-
/ never toiied, my dear, for fame;
But only lived for love.
1 only live TO know
That love was sweet and true;
And when I saw the roses grow
Thanked God they doomed for youi
Thanked God that if thorny spear
Some crimson drops did shed,
You still would have the rose, my dear,
And leave my heart the red.
Acknowledgements
Though time, and change, and art
Is love! Ere thorns should wound
thy feet,
I'd wear them on my heart,
That day my dear. with thy mandolin
That day, that day. my dear.
And I wonder if life a joy could win
As sweet as that day, my dear?
That day, my dear. with thy mandolin
The beam of thy rare blue eyesi
And l wonder if life could ever win
a glimpse of diviner skies?
That day, my dear. with thy mandolin
With thy red lips, kind and sweet
And the ships-far-sailing, the shores to
win,
And the pearls dashed at thy feetl
That day. my dear, with thy mandolin
a day divine-Supremei
And l dream in the dark o. the waves
that beat
l dream, and dream. and dreaml
Frank J.. Stanton.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
FASHION LETTER.
NEW FRENCH MODES FOR MID
SUMNER.

Partisan Modistes Are Working Des-
perateIy 10 Evolve Genuine
Novelty For Next Autumn-Difi-
cuIties in the Way--The Bishop
sleeve and VaIOis Collar Have
Achieved Success.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

one side with an unpretending bow,
and a feather thrust into the knot,
like thai worn by Marie Antoinette
sE familiar portrait by Lebrun. Also
in an evening couture, with chiffon
tied in a rosette on one side the head,
and a scarf passing thence across the
top TO end in another knot on the
kcsh& side. mass of curls being
q forward of the rosettes over
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14
The Latest Fancies.

At last the gigot sleeves is in fair
way of disappearing. Poor old leg O.
mutton, it has hung on well; it had
its virtues, too; it was susceptible of
a great variety of effects; one could
distinguish in fashionable assembly
the Worth gigot. severe and simple,
and like an old Venetian sleeve; the
Morin-Blossier gigot, which dubbed
over deliciously at top and was grace
fully slender below; the Rouff gigot
which broke out into wonderful but
terf1ies or bows; the Felix sleeve, etc.
One, at least, Of the new sleeves that
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

Marie Antoinette nor Louis PHILIPPE
"reminiscences interest greatly this
larger clientele, which asks rather
what is it that is interesting the world ?
At any rate this much is clear. Paris
has seen this spring both these epochs
many times brought to light and
poked back again, and only those re-
naming out that reflect the orient
Powered fabrics, turbans and der
wish skirts are of the east, the east
that today is in all mems minds.
They speak of Egypt. of Chitral expe-
ditions, of Slatin Bey, escapes from
the Soudan, of japanese victories, of
geographical parcellings out of Asia
to the west
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

Thousand of cases OF rheuma tism
have been cured by Hoods Sarsaparil-
la. This is abundant reason for belief
that it will cure you.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

State of Ohio. City of Toledo, Lucas
County, SIS. Frank ]. Cheney makes
oath that he is the senior partner of
the firm of F. ]. Cheney & Co.. doing
business in the city of Toledo, county
and state aforesaid. and that Gaid firm
will pay the sum of ONE HUNDRED
DOLLARS for each and every case of
catarrh that cannot be cured by the use
of Halls Catarrh Cure.
FRANK J. CHENEY.
Sworn to before me and subscribed
in my presence, this 9Th day of Decem-
er, A d. 1885, A. w. GLEASON.
(Seal.) Notary Public
Halls Catarrh Cure is taken intern
ally and acts directly on the blood and
mucous surfaces of the system. Send
for testimonials free.
F. J. CHENEY & CO, Toledo. Ohio.
Sold by druggists, rs cents.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-07-14

each ear, in a way suggesting a por-
trait Of Lebrun herself. AS to the
Powered fabrics, they possibly give
more sign Of permanence than the
rest, though it would be rash to pre-
dict a conquest for what has been
tried so many times and has hitherto
failed
The Norfolk Virginian. [volume] (Norfolk, Va.) 186?-189?, 1895-09-25
POSSIBILITIES or WAR.

Military and naval experts" SAYS
tn" Philadelphia Item. are quietly di.
rccting attention TO the possibilities al
a mighty European war with Russia
and France united against England and
all Europe. The present armed force
Of France II Russia is 1850. 900 men.
In -four years Germany and Italy have
expended So. GOO. 900 on war PURPOSES.
France and Russia SOS, 100. 900; Great Fri.
ain in four years $50. 200. 900. What are
the II If such II terrific onslaught
OF TWO powerful nations takes place?
Great Britain ia isolated; Italy ana
Spain are in financial distress: Germany
is rent Internally: Austria is vrrging Ia
dissolution. bat France and Russia are
strong II united. The population OF
France Is 80, 600. 900, Russia III. OOa.0 0O.
When this terrible day of reckoning
comes the world will stand aghast. and
the foundation Of every throne in !lu-
rope Will rock and tottcr.''
This seems To be n large sum OF money
ana in truth it is. but the total amount
is nothing when compared with the
sums paid ont by the United States for
the same length of time.
AS the Charleston News and Couric,
says. this sounds Very alarming by it.
self, but perhaps matters are not So
bad after all. The United states have
spent more one in pensions In two
years than all the countries named have
spent "on war purposes in -four years.
The Item should not get excited So
easily.