The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-16

ODD designs in jewelry are de rigueur this
season. For instance, cat with its back
humped up IN the very act of fighting is
described as quaint and curious. 1t is a
combination of emeralds and gold. A
poodle OF oxidiZed silver set in diamonds
Is also IN favor. Both of these are worn as
brooches. Opal pins with oval head and
pear-shaped opal, applied to the same pur-
pose OF a beautiful quality, full of chang
ing nights, are great favorites and make
very lovely presents for bridesmaids. The
old superstitions concerning these fateful
stones will never be forgotten. Quite re-
Gently friend of mine was sent a most
lovely lacepin set with opals She quickly
replaced it in its case and returned it to
the donor with the explanation that her
birth month was not October.
A good deal of attention has lately been
devoted to turquoises, some beautiful
specimens having been made up by Titfiny.
Arrows for brooches and for the hair in
diamonds and sapphires meet fashions
wants exactly.
One OF the newest stars in diamonds has
flames introduced between each point,
which gives it much additional fire.
Now you might guess all day and never
find out what are the very latest of the de-
signs, so l shall tell you at once that they
are the hanson cab and the coach in four
What next l wonder? Perhaps sleighs
will be the favorite winter brooch and a
pair of skates entwined the latest in scarf
pins This is really not bad idea of
mine, as opals would represent the snow
most beautifully.
The revival of all colonial things makes
the demand for great tortoise-shelI combs
very evident, indeed 1 have been admiring
some to-day in the window of one of our
jewellers.
With the white kid belts now so much
IN vogue are shown large mother-of-pearl
buckIes-and speaking of belts reminds
me that some wide belts of black silk elastic,
great Improvement on any hitherto
made, are being eagerly bought up.
White serge costumes for boating and
yachting are made in large numbers. These
are faced with silk of the same hue.
A dress of china blue duck, adorned
with white duck cuffs and collar, is an e1-
ceedingly pretty frock and is one worn by
young girl just sweet 16 at her country
home; but this ombination is suitable for
any young woman. White embroidery
over the blue is also effective.
During the last month a skirt newer in
shape than any have described this sea-
. son has made its appearance in Paris. 1t
measures round about nine yards, and
though this does seem to me too volumin-
OttSs dlluOuSn KNOW II 10 Dc COIT6CI, L
assured that this particular STYLE is very
chic, as the cut employed insures an abso-
lutely perfect hang of the folds, so we will
doubtless hear more about it shortly.
Sleeves seem to be trying to emulate the
skirts in size, and now from six to eight
yards is the quantity used for pair; it is
necessary, perhaps, for me to repeat that
stiffening is not employed in these sleeves
but the modistes continue to concentrate
their attention on our bodices, and every
design, sishpIe or complicated, every fold
or loose plat, every trimming of jewel or
lace, every chiffon or gauze, each and all
are used to carry out some idea which
madame considers necessary for our latest
"GTeam of a dress"
Now that so many cheap and remark
ably pretty fabrics are to be seen on our
counters do not make the mistake of pur-
chasing too small a quantity of material.
From eighteen to twenty-five yards are
necessary for a gown, and remember that
to have correct skirt it is absolutely