The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1895-03-03
GYPSIES OF THE SEA
SURVIVORS OF THE INCAs' SUBJECTS
WHO SAIL on PACIFIC WATERS.
They Use the Same Style Of Craft that
Pixarro Wondered At-Balsas of
Peru and Their Crews.
samuel N. scott. in New York Post.

sight of strange sail bearing towards
him.
LAS he drew near he found it was huge
vessel. or rather raft, called basa by the
natives, consisting of a number of huge
timbers of light porous wood, tightly
dashed together by way of deck. Two masts
or sturdy poles, erected in the middle OF the
vessel, sustained a large square sail of cot
ton, while d rude kind of rudder. or nova
BILE keel. made of plank, inserted between
the logs, enabled the mariner to give di-
rection to the floating fabric. which held
it's course without the aid of oar or
paddle
The same style OF craft, scarcely altered
in any particular, is a common sight to-
day in the equatorial waters of the Pa
cific. Instead of flooring of reeds
built-up platform of small logs covered with
planking forms the deck, while the masts,
instead of being placed the middle of
the vessel are a large mainmast stepped
forward and a smaller jigger mast well
aft. The sails are still square sheets of
cotton suspended from long light yards
The crews which navigate these strange
contrivances are made up of Indians from
the neighborhood of Sechura, district just
south of the port of Paita They are the
last remnant of the ancient inhabitants of
the country along the coast who can still
boast of comparatively pure blood, and they
constitute distinct feature of the life of
Peru. The coast has few harbors; most of
the seaports face directly upon the ocean.
Owing to the surf and the shoaling beach
es It IS impossible for steamers to approach
such moleS or piers as there are, and most
OF the loading and discharging of cargo is
done by means of the balsas, which sail
out from the shore TO the steamer and
make their landings directly upon the beach,
In this way men of Sechura have almost
monopoly of the lighterage along the
coast.
Although short in stature, rarely exceed
ing five feet six inches in height, they are
limbs, superb backs and deep, powerful
chests; With their round. fiat faces high
they. resemble somewhat the Indians of
Alaska, but their countenances are full of
vivacity. and intelligence. Their strength
especially skilled in carrying enormous
weights which they bear upon their shout
ders instead of on their backs, as is usual
ly the case. Many of these men are able
to run several hundred yards under two
large hgd sacks OF rice RIB burden of nearly six
work with a will and an enthusiasm that
quite put to shame their indolent Cholo
neighbors. They are inclined to look down
upon the mixed breeds of the coast, take
pride in their own greater purity of race.
them. In the towns they inhabit a quarter
by themselves, marry among their own
people. and adhere strictly to their special
customs and modes of life.
WANDERERS ON WATER.
But~in addition to those who are thus
occupied in the towns, large proportion of
these balseros or watermen of Sechura live
nomadic or gypsy life upon the sea itself.
The wood of which the RATS are made
grows to the north of Peru in the forests
of Ecuador and Colombia. The balsas are
constructed in the rivers and then sailed
down the coast to the ports where they are
required. As is well known, the prevailing
winds and currents of this portion of the
Pacific are from the south; while the cur
rents sometimes change north wind is of
rare occurrence; the voyage OF balsa is
therefore long and OTTER. a perilous under
taxing. The passage of a hundred odd
miles from Tumbes to Payta frequently oc-
cupies from thirty to forty days, and is
most uninhabited desert. 1t is one long beat
10 Windward Often the violence of the
winds and of the sea makes progress i'm
possible, and the crude craft must be head
ed for. the shore and brought to anchor
in shallow water, where, through the chill
nights, the white dawns and the blazing
days these patient wanderers of the deep
wait until Neptune is appeased.
me crews number usually from 1--WE to
all their time, sleeping waking, is spent
on deck. Water and provisions sufficient for
rations consist chiefly of toasted corn and
bananas, with salt fish or such fresh fish as
can be caught on the way The latter is
usually eaten raw with onions and red-pep-
pers Cooking is done on box of sand ar
ranged as stove, with three stones to sup
port the earthen pots, which the only
kitchen utensils The poor fellows have
many hardships to endure, but their patience
is infinite. Some years ago a balsa entered
Payta harbor, having on board a sailor who
had broken his leg during storm two
light shelter which his companions arranged
for him, he had been forced to suffer the
fortunes of his wound without hope of aid
until the port could be reached.
II during the long voyage the balsa be-
comes water-logged, or any other emer-
and rolled upon the beach, log by log, to
dry. The tying aud untying of these balsas
is decidedly o exciting work , and it requires
the task has frequently to be performed in
a heavy surf. AS soon as the logs have
been disposed on the beach a rude shelter.
made of the tirnbers of the deck and of the
sails, Is erected near by. This is merely a
there is no rain, and the men seem to be in
sensible to the difference between the tenn
perature of the night and of the day. In
stead of covering their bodies with blankets
while sleeping, they throw their ponchos
cloaks over their heads, and make no addi-
ing even when the night wind Of the desert
is cold.
THEIR SHORE LIFE.
Once on shore, they occupy themselves in
sailor fashion. mending and making sails.
twisting and splicing rope. weaving nets,
and sewing clothes. Others construct a
| small balsa or two from the light logs that
/
| supply the camp with fish. The fish of the
coast are of two kinds, those such as mack
| erel, which are taken by trolling, and the
| bottonl-loving varieties, which are caught
| with bait. For the former a squid of
| bone and rag is used, for the latter a COM
| mon cod line and nook baited with pieces
| of the liza herring, which is found in
| great quantities in shallow, sheltered bays
| along the shore, and taken with a small
casting net, in the use of which these In
| dams are very expert They have a wealth
of fishing lore for all times and conditions
| and sea sons. They devoutly believe that the
| fish are under the special keeping of St
| Peter, and they invoke that patron with
! simple trust whenever the luck is against
them. They feel confident that a candle
| burned before his image is never wasted
Nature seems TO have taught them one
| trick which is unique as it is true The
| best grounds for bottom fish are among
| deeply submerged rocks and reefs. Most
/ of these spots are of small area and are
| known to the fishermen in a general way by
certain shore bearings. On approaching
| the locality they put an paddle into
the water and listen attentiyely, with their
| ear close against the end of the handle II
+, the bottom is smooth and sandy and there
fore unfavorable sound comes through
| the primitive telephone. But wherever the
| submarine currents seethe among the hid.
/ den crags, a crisp. Sputtering resonace