The representative. [volume] (St. Paul, Minn.) 1893-1901, 1895-10-02

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tucks, which give the desired fullness,
are handmade by skillful needlewom
an. The tiny bands which conceal the
seams of the garment, are feather stitch
ed, and this is an additional decorative
feature. The French chemise is sacque-
shaped and is sleeveless. Below the seal
loped edge which outlines the neck and
shoulders, oblong eyelets are worked and
through them narrow ribbon is drawn to
distribute the fulness evenly about the
shoulders. This is a universal style
adopted by French haberdashers, and
they vary the cost of the articles by sup
plementing ruffles of lace, Valenciennes
being their particular favorite. The more
elegant the lace, the more costly the gar
ment becomes. Drawers are very short,
barely reaching to the knee. They are
attached to round yoke, which prevents
the wearer from seeming padded about
the hips. The bottom of the drawers cor
responds with the embroidered pattern
used in trimming the other articles The
skirts flare and have deep ruffie put on
over three smalled ones, which hold out
the bottom of the skirt. Simplicity in
style is maxim of the French woman,
but she insists that her lingerie be eX-
quisitely dainty.
The texture of the fabric used in I'M
derwear determines what the trimming
shall be. Linen and very fine torchon
lace combine prettily. Point Paris lace
is effective when used upon jaconet or
nainsook. For general utility Valenci-
ennes lace is preferable. Dotted swiss
plays an important part in the decorative
possibilities Of underwear and commends
itself because of its washable qualities
A suit of French underwear consisting of
four pieces simple as to cut, but extrava-
gantly embroidered and ruff1ed in real
thread Valenciennes, may be purchased
for $225 1t is elaborate only insomuch
as the quality and quantity of lace make
it So 1t is possible to duplicate this suit
characteristic of all French garments is
that they fit perfectly, and no superfuous
material is used in making them
The Empire style, which Is not fire.
quently seen in the underwear depart
ments this season, is quite fetching. The
gowns are in Mother Hubbard style at
the back In front they are square,
necked, and the fullness reaches TO the
hem OF the skirt. Bishop sleeves gath
cred into narrow band are almost ex-
clusively used. The chemise is shaped
In much the same style--the drawers,
however, are novelty and a revival of
the old-time knickerbocker style. The
knee does not fit closely, but it ties loosely
with ribbon. The skirt which belongs
with this outfit is perfectly straight, be-
ing only slightly gored at the waist A
tape is drawn through the casing, and it
is not gathered into the ordinary band
| This style is particularly advantageous.
as one may adjust the gathers to suit
ones self and to conform to the figure.
1t Is also easy to launder, and this fact
is not one which should be overlooked in
| selecting undergarments.
A pleasing example of this special style
| Is made of nainsook. The night dress is
a thing of beauty. Alternate rows of the
finest nainsock embroidery and point de
Paris lace are cut in points and effectively
arranged about the neck. Ruffies of the
lace show beneath the edges of the collar
On either side of the full front con-
tinuous frili falls in jabot style to the
hem of the gown. Sleeves of enormous
| proportion, reaching just below the elbow
! are finished off by the pointed ruff,e.
! The chemiSe and drawers are subjected to
the same mode of treatment, and per-
| feet whirl of lace is the result The pet
ticoat displays three Of these elaborate
ruffles, and thirty yards of lace are en-
ployed in the decorations. Such a set of
underwear may be bought for $125. On
( the other hand, young woman may