Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1893-1895, 1895-11-01


ward winter they will become mora
marked and distinct The new loose
waists have the bishop sleeves droopinQ
from the shoulder and having cuffs deep
or narrow as one may prefer.
Some Of the new separate waists cost s1b
and $50, and yet thoy appear extremely
simple. One was made Of fine white mo.
hair and embroidered by hand In Bulyn.
rian stitch in duh blue and red washable
colors. One wide band was worked around
the middle of tho sleeves. The cuffs were
covered with It, and SO was tho collar.
Two narrow rows were worked down each
side of the front. Across the upper part
Of tie bust were cords and silver buttons.
mention this In detail because this
Bulgarian embroidery Is going to be seen
on everything where It Is possible TO put
It, even on black wooden goods whore the
surface Is smooth. To make It one must
get some loose meshod canvas and baste It
to the goods or garment and work the
stitches through both. When it Is all done,
the canvas threads are to be pulled out,
and this leaves the pattern directly on the
goods or the made up garment. This Is
work that cannot be done by machine,
and therefore 1t will never be common or
cheap
There arc new silks In some of these new
pattern waists copied after old old timo
goods, mostly patterns of printed delaines.
The mingling OF colors is very artistic, but
the patterns themselves are superlatively
ugly. There was one pattern waist plated
from the shoulder and punched up at the
bottom in slight blouse effect. There
were n draped belt and stock collar of the
material with soft bow at tho back OF
the neck. Down the front and on the
shoulders wero straps Of black velvet rib.
bon, held by silver frosted buttons. This
is calculated for tho young ladies, though
the same form has been exactly followed in
dark prune and heliotrope peau do sole and
satin duchess for moro elderly persons.
It is certain that the "waist" has an.
other winter before It. saw delicate
shrimp pink and moss green striped taffe
Ia waist In blouse fashion, with six stripes
of moss green taffeta each edged with mar
row butter colored lace. These were
brought down the front. There was a
square collar Of the moss green silk, edged
with lace. Frosted silver buttons fastened
tho front The belt was made like the
stripes. Tho sleeves had cuffs of the green,
with square pointed chatelaine cuffs fall
with plat val in butter color
There was among these new gowns suit
Of brilliant lilac rough cropon. The skirt
was plain. Tho waist and sleeves were OF
green surah, Just the color OF lilac leaves.
over tho shoulders was an immense peler-
Inc Of yellow point do venise. Down the
front of the waist there was double jabot
of lilac silk null, and there was "a fancy
ob hnxt %, ffhn claapaa wa anita
large gigots. Tho importer told me that
she expected To SEQ sleeves made quite
smooth on tho upper part OF tho arm before
winter set in, but that tho largo sleeves
were too cool and comfortable to give up
while hot weather lasted. She also thinks
that there will be considerable Of the deep
crinkle crepon worn the coming season,
though It will not take rank as high
novelty. There arc some new ideas In
these orepons now being wrought out and
one will be those with loops of wool thrown
up ON tho surface OF the upper orinkle.
That will bring 1t in the limit Of the new
frise fashions, which will be seen on al
most evoryNhing in wool and mixtures.
There was costume complete for gar
den party, which will describe partly for
It's own beauty and partly because the gen.
erai style will bo reproduced Immediately
for many handsome fall dresses. One Is
10 be made TO order in ashes Of roses ar
mure, with black lace trimmings. This Is
of a delicate salmon pink tatfeta with
cream shades. The skirt Is full all around,
though cut with fine cores. The cores are
not very sharp, and that leaves ample
width TO make clusters Of fine narrow
plaits at the waist line all the way around. !
Between these clusters there are double