The sun., 1895-01-20

| houses are hotels and stores but. although the
outer appearance Of these buildings is like that
| Of Yankee mining camp, the similarity ends at
the outer appearance. Every store carries a
| considerable stock of liquors and tobacco. =
moderate stock of hardware and cutlery likely
to attract ranchmen, q small stock OF wool and
| The stocks wore not arranged to make anything
like nm attractive display, and, because sand
storms, were likely TO come at any time TO dust
over the Interior OF every building nobody
thought II worth while to sweep or In any way
AS hotels every store was hotel as welD the
places were most unattractive worse, for in
tbroTsb nah h any say whsn h rHb SnM yis sent me ne
| Mexico all OF a party OF travellers, men, women.
children, and servants, would he lodged in
bench 70 sleep on. but IL was always clean
floor. while one, could have hammock under n
| kind of bed. Moreover food was always abun-
dant aud good. Al some GnlcRos hotels one
could not be certain OF either quantity or quality
OF the food, while the blankets were neither
washed nor aired nor changed for new arrivals.
at least one exception. Dufn philomeuu, a ro-
tund ana jolly woman of middle age, with her
house in an adobe hut of one room, twelve by
eighteen feet. She had a stove that smoked Mt
table @ Sc1bS 0n one nj sg the OF other iS IOSr bed
Just beyond and beyond this bed heaps and
piles of boxes and bags and bundles, contain ing
vegetables, groceries, clothing. Indian CuriOs,
saddles, n,d horse gear generally. There were
three kinds OF meat hanging from the rafters;
There was but one tiny window. and that yielded
light enough only for the table In the extreme
rear of the room all was concealed BY impcnc-
trable gloom. A Yankee wife would have said
she never did zee such n cluttered UP place.
Nevertheless, the mud walls Ind been white
tom of pool in an akali desert The mud floor
was neatly swept. The spare bed had clean
white sheets, and the blankets smelled sweet.
The rude table was covered with a snowy CLOTH
aud there was a stainless napkin AT each pl ate
D9na Philomena wore a clean dress, with
The picture Of her as she worked over the stove
in thin halo of blue smoke, giving stir to the
ton roasting in the oven. NO. or cutting fresh bread
or opening Yankee condensed milk. while she
smiled and joked and gosspped In u continuous
flow Of words. was something that the traveller
would carry with him for long time after:
and fingered over the coffee the boy got out an
old guitar ana played the tunes the spanish
lover plays to win sweetheart tunes that
alternately swelled with importunate passion
and faded into murmurs of hopeless loi Cing. so
that everybody stopped talking to stare into
space and think of somebody else a long way off.
The Captain of the steamer introduced me TO
Gov. Edelmire Mayer. The Governor lived in
enclosed veranda overlooking the river. ON the
whole this was a most remhr kable home, con-
camp house. as the rest were. without. there
were Oriental rugs of great value on the floor: a
in gold in New York stood in corner of the
parlor: great organ such as professional mu-
sicians prefer was In another: library OF 5000
volumes, made up OF standard works OF science
and literature. was in the glass-encloscd ve-
randa. while the furniture and hangings and
taste could ask for. SO was the side board, with
its old Kentucky whskcy. Having very little
governing to do. the Governor devoted himself
to literature and music. occupations in which
he was ably assisted by his wife, charming
Gov. Mayors name is not unknown to Ameri-
can history. Just for the love of adventure and
free republican institutions he came to the
United States TO help during the of the re-
belion. He commanded negro regiment with
conspicuous success. Afterward. while down
triotic Mexicans overthrow Macmillan. Wien
about to go over with body Of men the com
mander Of the American forces called Mayer to
one side and told him where large quantity of
arms; ammunition, and equipments could be
Mexican patriots il somebody could get them
across the Rio Grande Gov. Mayer took the
hint and d, carried arr the stuff over to the
found in Patagonia was to be seen at the Gov
ernor's stable. 1t was big carriage built for
that at the right season he could drive from
Punts Arenas to santa Cruz in 1t and to and fro
people there would be a long time changing from
pack horses to wheels
II any adventurous Yankee wanted to try BIZ
tS cyeie IN region out OF the way way Patagonla was
of Magellan.
Gallegos has plenty of good drinking water
of the river. The land to the south Is low
mesa, too, and there is hard CLAY formation
under the sand and gravel that catches the
water from rains and SHOWS. and there is no
alkali in the sand as there is at santa Cruz.
Although small in the number OF its houses
and its people. G9iegos is in full plumage as a
territorial capital. A two story frame building
ually be the White House of santa Cruz Terri
tory. Besides the Governor, there was the usual
OF such place, including n captain of police
ahd ais saGad Of AS a. shuaa
worth mention Indeed. the Ca Captain f of Poiiee
who In United States territorial capital would |
need TO be a man Of nerve and muscle, was here
"a a. fh.4r cit Aun hrrea
walk unaided the length of the towns one |
street. still courts We're held sometimes TO de-
cho who had sashed u comrade in a drunken |
brawl was arrested just before arrived. Gal
nails when the country gets filled up. / guess.
for 1t is very handy to the Chill line. and extra
Chill and Argentine are Of little value. ''' 90
popularity OF the climate is the southwest |
wind of summer. II begins at In the morning |
and increases in violence until after noon when |
It occasionally blows hard enough to lift a man |
from the saddle. Az in the afternoon It mod
the night there Is usually calm. This wind |
blows every day in spring and summer, and on |
can face. The winter season, though colder, is |
sgs by far o the nG most abs Sn Of the But
eminently, healthful region now. Every |
human being that saw there carried the glow |
his muscles. But there are zymotlc diseases in |
Punta Arenas, just az there are in Yankee vii |
lages. because OF the JuXtaposition of wells and
ever settlements are made because of the utter |
indifference of Spanish-Americans 10 the rules |
of hygiene as applied In such matters.
To sum 1t all up, the settlements on the coast |
Of Patagonia are small the buildings are of the |
temporary or mine-camp class and life in them |
is very much like frontier life in the United |
States, except that there is no such thing as |
shooting up the town by either shepherds or |
cowboys, II is a decidedly tranquil life, unless
two gauchOs get into trouble with each other |
aud then knives instead Of guns are used. The |
towns are new and the bad name the country |
has borne In the matter OF climate and steriity |
has kept foregners away. There has been no |
boom-just slow, healthy growth" az the Kan |
sas boomers paper would put IL, and in this case |
tho statement is true. santa Cruz Territory |
now has 800 600 sheep. Its Governor expects 10 |
see lO.O00.O 900 there In ten years more. besides |
some millions OF horses Uud cattle. lie is likely |
To realize on his expectations. Settlements VIII |
very likely spring up in The Interior and the vast
region over which the lchu-lChe Indians held |
undisputed sway during the 800 years after tho |
land was discovered by white men will become |
peaceful, thinly populated pastoral land whose |
people Will grow comfortably rclr supplying |
Europe and the United States with wool, hides. |
and tallow. But there are no Indications worth |
mentioning that as "A whole IL will ever bo any |
4 all hun and NJ . 10