New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-12-08
GOOD THINGS TO EAT.
THE DELIGHTS OF "WARMED-OVER'
DISHES.

THE DELIGHTS OF "WARMED-OVE
DISHES.
II Is in the making Of what tho French call re
chaufres" that the cook may show her highest Skill
There certain dishes. as every one snouiu KNOW
that attain perfection only after being reneateo
BrllatSavarn relates that on one occasion the us"
OF spinach appeared on tho table after having peen
reheated the eleventh time. BY this time the Vese
table had attained such mellowness OF flavor ana
was altogether improved that the great pom
yivant declared he never would eat IL again u"ieSS
IL had been heated and cooled eleven times
The best cooks blanch spinach and many o'her
vegetables but the vast majority. IN ths country al
least serve this vegetable and all others with al
their crude juices In them. Any one with re-
fined taste who tries a dish OF spinach which mas
been cooled and then recooked will never again serve
II at the first cooking This process OF banching Is
equally essential to the proper preparation OF CAP
bage turnips and other vegetables All tnis goes
to prove that the American prejudice against re-
heated dishes is a most foolish one. 1t Is perfectly
true that some dishes are injured by recooking out
almost as many are improved. while the vast ma
torty of foods including meats and soups. II prop
erly treated do not lose gain perceptioly IN
flavor No food that has been properly cooked re-
CURES to be cooked over, but simply to be re-
heated.
|. is here that the ignorant cook usually plumbers
She cooks over her dishes of hash or stews OF
cooked meat as long as she would uncooked meat
TIE result is that the meat is hard and tough Meat
that has once cooled after being thoroughly cooAed
cannot be cooked longer without being toushened'
The only way to prepare II Is 10 develop IL III
sauce and bring 1t quickly to boiling point, COOK
ing il lust enough to heat 1t. We do this in stew
over the fire. or In the croquette cooked In not
lard or in the coquille Drowned for five minutes In
an intensely hot oven. or in any OF the ever-deEgh'
full dishes which the French have always prepared
from cooked meats.
Even that much-abused dsh the hash may be
a delicious dish II properly cooked and seasoned
Beef IS the only meat that requires a mixture OF
notatoes Veal IS much better served In croquettes
or in a well-navored mnce on toast Lamb makes
a good stew, but a poor mlnce or hash. Mutton
makes a fairly good hash with a variety OF vege-
tables added as we'll potatoes Minces or game
and of poultry are delicious or otherwise. according
to their seasoning and preparation. No one VINO mas
eaten 2 perfectly prepared turkey hash or m'nce
OF duck can doubt that the second service or meat
can be fully excellent as the nrst.
4 plain beef and potato hash furnishes the
hest method OF dsposing Of remnants OF roast beer
and Of the tough end OF the porterhouse steak which
&c never served and should not be sent TO the table
but cut off for the hash. 1t Is a finely havoreo
niece Of meat and makes an excellent hash IL re-
alires pnts of lean. cooked peer. minced me-
and two bowls Of cooked potatoes. minced rather
coarse 10 make generous dish or hash III 1resh-
~ roasted meat is used add two even teaspoonfuis
ber!ng that nothing requires more generous sea-
soning than hash II corned beef is used. the
hash from II will usually require teaspoohiui Oh
salt although there Is always some LETT III the
beef Add the seasoning while chopping the meat
Add also tablespoonful of butter and liberal cup
OF boiling water or beef stock All this can be done
the night before II the hash Is to be served for
breakfast.
The ouantty OF water or stock used depends some
what upon the condition of the meat III IL Is very
dry. a larger quantity-possi9y cup ana quar-
ter-may be needed. Heat thin french rylhS-
pan of about twelve inches in diameter melt d
large tablespoonful Of butter in it, and spread the
hosh ONT av.n,v cover IT, and set II on that part
n, .bs stove where II will slowly brown In half an
hour This slow cooking makes a most savory
hash Some housekeepers are more successtul COOK
ing II In moderately hot oven In this case u
must be kept covered with thick pate 10 pre-
Won't its Incoming dry When the hash IS done 1t
should he very moist, and thick but tender brown
r,s, ,rust cover II on the bottom. Fold II over
like an omelet and turn II on very ho' platter
Some persons like a dozen mushrooms ADDED 10 Il
hash of fresh beef. tablespoonful OF very hheiy
minced onions to a hash OF either fresh peer OF
corned beef.
A lamb stew is OF the most savory and excel
lent OF breakfast dishes. Take pint OF cooked
lamb cut in small chunks Melt a tablespoonful OF
butter In a saucepan and add teaspoontui OF nour
When they are melted together pour IN pint OF
stock or II not convenient the same quah'i'y OF
gravy and water with any bones OF the lamb which
are on hand II the stock Is used the sauce VIII
renuire only twenty minutes slow cooking at the
back part OF the fire; but II II Is necessary 10 pre-
mare stock from bones. this cooking must be con-
tinued an hour At the end OF this time take out
any bones and add spr.g OF parsley one OF thyme,
q spray OF celery and half n bay Leaf These -FOUR
herbs which constitute a havoring bouquet. are
not essential but they always improve the flavor.
,xit "a
even Tablespoonful OF pepper and one tablespoon
When the sauce boils up. add the lamb with the
same quantity OF potatoes II you wish ana let IL
simmer three minutes. but no longer
This stew may be improved by frying minced
onion a. the beginning In the butter. adding the
aayor,ng bouquet and half cup OF tomatoes after
the flour has been stirred In. In this the
sauce must be strained before adding the lamb
Mutton makes an excellent stew. prepared in the
same way as lamb adding slices OF carrots and tiny
onions fried brown In butter, IA we'll as potatoes.
A delicious mutton mnce 10 made As follows:
Mince two onions and fry them In tablespoonful
OF butter Add three haf-pint cups OF minced NUT
ton A cup OF chopped potatoes. tablespoonful OF
salt and one teaspoonful OF pepper. Stir we'll. and
add half a cup OF stewed tomatoes and table,
spoonful OF minced parsley. Str in now cup OF
rich brown gravy or sauce, and cook very slowly for
twenty minutes top Of the stove In the oven
Roll the hash out a hot platter. sprinkle II with
minced parsley and at A dish Of spicei
currants currant jelly Is the appropriate accom-
paniment OF this dish.