Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-09-28

the Alps, is extremely cheerful in outward
appearance. but infinitely more SO upon
entering. We liked it better than many
others at which we had stopped in Swift
erland, the Salzkanmergut and other parts
of the Tyrol. 1t was SO coZy SO nicely ar
ranged, and neat to the extreme. which is
something unusual in these mountain re-
treats. The reason for this was plain to be
seen. 1t was in the hands of two women,
and not men, as is usually the case. Built
in the rocks, and sheltered on two sides by
huge lodges of slate. it differed in con-
struction but little from its companions,
but its interior arrangements were the
very best. Everything was in its proper
place and there was no overcrowding.
On the ground floor was the kitchen, con-
tanning, in addition to the stove and the
cooking utensils. two long tables, with
their benches, upon which the meals were
served. The second story. reached from
the outside by means of stairs cut into
rock. contained the sleeping apartments,
in which there were no beds nor cots. but
shelf-lke hunks. raised foot from the
ground. A part OF this dormitory was so
arranged that. by drawing a curtain, 1t
could be separated from the rest, and thus
be used by the ladies'. Beneath the gable.
reached by a ladder. were the quarters for
the guides and the two women that took
charge of the place.
Detained by the Storm.
We were the first to enter the hut, but
it was not long before party returning
from the summit Joined us.
One by one the party left, and at in the
evening We were again alone. But by
our number had been augmented to eight,
among whom were a Spanish sea captain
and a Hollander, both experienced noun
taineers, who thrilled US with tales of their
varied experiences in the mountains OF
India.
At 10 at night the Spaniard the Hol-
lander and myself went out of doors to
consult the weather. 1t was dark, dis
NAL night, not a star being visible, and
so cold that it chilled us to our very bones.
A storm was brewing, and at IL 1t
reached u.s. causing the timbers of the hut
to creak and tremble in a way that my
wife, unaccustomed to these gales of 1.-The
mountains, became greatly alarmed. Ter
rifle gusts of wind would strike the I'M
protected side of the hut with such ire
n en1ous force that it seemed at times as
though the refuge and the inmates would
be swept away. 1t was fearful night and
the seyerest storm the writer ever expert
enced.
At o'clock. at 2, at 5 and the guides
arose to go out of doors to observe the
condition of the weather. At 5 all hope Of
ascending the slopes of the summit was
abandoned, and by 9 in the morning all
had left for the valleys below with the
exception of ourselves. We concluded to
remain and to make a second attempt on
the next day. but rain setting in the final
ascent was again delayed. Thus three
days were spent In the hut, but they were
not SO dreary as one might imagine for
there was much with which we whiled
away the time-letter writing, dominoes,
checkers, cards, bound volumes of the
F'iiegenda Blaetter and the register in
which were recorded the names of those
who had reached the hut.
The Ascent Begun.
Although the gale continued. during the
night the skies became clear, and on the
following day at 3 o'clock in the morning.
bread. we emerged from the hut. unbe-
known to the others. determined to make
a last and final attempt to reach the sum-
init. Anxious to keep the lead, 1 quickly
roped my wife to Pichler and started the
two upon their journey. following with the
other guide at distance of hundred
yards. After descending a rocky defile Of
several hundred feet We stepped upon that
huge knob Of snow. the picture of which
is to be seen everywhere in the Tyrol.
This snowy arete looks formidable when
viewed from the hut, but its appearance
from distance is deceiving. 1t is worse
than 1t looks. and when mounted-harrow-
ing in the extreme. 1t must be crossed in
an erect position, as there are no walls
for support on either side Ice picks and
STATS count for nothing, as they do not
take hold, and even If they did, it would
sun be necessary to walk along without
swaying. To be sure. there is consolation
in the fact that one is roped to a guide
hut what if he should slip After crossing
this snowy prominence we descended again
in order to reach another glacier.
Climbing along these rocky ledges-a fall
from which meant instant death-was deli
cate work, but by watching each step as 1t
was placed upon the slippery rocks, and by
clutchir.g against the walls with fingers and
nails. and by balancing the body as We
leaped over defles and crevices, and by EN-
ploying the ice axes to cut footholds into
the ice, we managed to reach the Trafoi
glacier. Here il was necessary to cross
deep ravine upon bridge OF ice and snow
not n UGH more than a foot wide and half
a foot thick.
The Perils of the Way.
It was the most dangerous point upon our
route; but from then on the ascent was