The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-05-19
WOMAN OF FASHION.

New York, May 1s.-The French
have lured us into some very
eXtravagant notions in the forma-
ton of gowns. 1t is in the use of
silk as lining. Silk is all very well for the
French woman, who has only to go out
in her yard, and unwind a cocoon for
the lining OF her new gown, but for us
Americans who must pay 81 per yard for
the SILK we use in this way it means the
difference between one dress and two
But this consideration in no way affects
the imported modiste. She takes II for
granted that the foundation" as she
calts It, shall be silk for even the sim
piest of gowns, and looks Mortified at the
mention of percaline or any such vulgar
material for the basis of the creation
which she is about to evolve. And we
meekly submit. for, scoff as we will. awav
down in our hearts there is a deem sou
conviction that no one knows how a dress
should be made quite so well as a French
modesto When it comes to doubling the
silk layers and lining dress with the
same material of which the outsida &c
made the average woman is inclined ~
rebel, but when ones underwear even Is
Of the coveted fabric, the silk lining seems
all the more appropriate.
The crepons of this season require a
hning of some sort which looks well whom
seen through the meshes of the loosely
woven stuff, and people of limitIess in
comes will, of course, use silk. but the
economical woman has found that nor
calne or the right shade answers an
P pr purposes, and uses it regardless
OF sentiment or the frowns of the modiste
After all 1t is the outside that is the most
important, though the modiste deciares
that nothing but silk gives a gown quite
the rlght set" And the outside refers al
most wholly to the bodice, since II is here
that the trimming appears; for trimmines
Ike pugilists' blows, are not allowed he
low the belt. "
Speaking of belts, they are Ia great de-
mand at present, and all kinds of shops
are profting by the fact The leather
OF trunks and satchels. They are made of
alligator and Russia leather. and other va
rieties. Most of these have leather buck-
les, put Few have steel and silver clasps.
one pretty variety in the silver buckle
line shows miniature of the kind worn in
brooches and watches in these emnire
worshipping days All widths are shown.
but in the selection of a belt the stout wo-
man should choose a wide one or shlIn
them altogether Belts of some kind are
necessity as long as the blouse fashion
continues. There are a few departures
from it, but in every case some semblance
of the blouse appearance is kept up as in
the case or one OF the bOdices in the illus-
tration, where the fullness fastens lust he
low the bust line, leaving the rest Of the
bodice smooth around the waist
There is a race between laces and lew
eled passementeries in the trimming de-
partment, with the chances in favor of Iace
in view of the time of year Jet still
leads among the glass trimmings but
steel is introduced into many gowns tn
advantage, and the Kaleidoscope trim
mings in light colors are also in great
favor
The laces are wonders of dainty work.
manship. The patterns with two edges
are the newest, and usually have a bit
OF color on the edge that is of deener
tint than the body of it. A cream lace
has coffee-colored edge, and a white
cream, etc. A new variety is black chif
ION, with edge made by sewing on that
braid which has been so extensively used
by ladies of leisure in making lace hama
kerchiefs. The black chiffon is SO sheer
that 1t looks gray with the light SHINING
through it, and the white lace is So fne
ana feathery that the whole looks like a
bit of frost work.
A coarse lace of about eleven inches in
width has meshes of a quarter of an ineh
IN diameter, being formed by coarse cords
crossing each other and forming checks
The edge has a bowknot pattern.
some heavy lace was in a rosebud pat