The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-10-20

This winter San Francisco's social world
promises to be unusually gay, and already
several delightful social events have taken
place. The gowns worn by the ladies re-
ceiving at the California Hotel the other
evening we're, with few exceptions, either
very handsome or charmingly chic in their
simplicity.
a handsome woman from Berlin re-
peatedly last Wednesday evening COM
mented on the beauty of our women's
figures and the perfect fit of their gowns,
and to my surprise she said that we re-
ceiyed the Paris fashions here more quickly
than they are received in Berlin. Truly, a
seeming paradox.
hear Of a new corset that every one OF
US should possess. 1t is closed in the
back, thus causing the disappearance of
those Objectionable stiff lines on each side
OF the middle OF the back, where the eyelet
hole hold the laces.
The prevailing mode for mantles and
jackets IS to remain in vogue, but they WILL
especially the mantles, be more luxurious
than ever, and black velvet Will be the fav
orite fabric. 4 costly novelty is to incrust
lace and embroidery on fur The capes
are to be extremely full and white lace viii
adOrn most OF them. novelty has been
created IN nantes. 1t Is to all appear
ances sleeveless cape, but in reality
sleeves are dexterously introduced and
comfortably hidden.
All evening cloaks are to reach the feet
and some have backs Stimulating court
trains, but in reality no longer than the
fronts. Large fur collars and fur reaching
down the front adorn most of them. The
collars have as Innings ruchings OF NOUS
seine lie sole.
On the occasion of Lester Melvllle's mar
riage to pretty Miss Stead there was quite
q stir in the Anglo-American colony. The
fair bride looked her best in a glove-fttlng
gown OF white satin. DouCet made most
OF her gowns, and her going away costume
was one of the creations which was de-
scriOed as a triumph in fawn-colored
alpaca. 1t had chine sash and hat to
match, on which were crimson peoples.
We should all now examine our furs, as
fur is to be much used TO trim the new
dresses. Sable and astrakhan are in high
favor. Among the latest combinations
with fur is a model coat of black Persian
lamb, which has revers covered with an
applique of purple velvet outlined with
let. fnis is an extremely effective gar
ment. but prefer circular cape of black
Lyons velvet with cores of chinchilla
let IN.
At the delightful tea recently given in
San Rafael the young girls who assisted in
receiving were charming in mules, mus
Inns and organdies and although to such
frOcks we have to say farewell until spring
we can console ourselves with the infor-
nation that lovely, delicate, perlshabIe
tulle is to be the rage again this winter,
and from Paris has gone forth the fat that
debutantes must have several such gowns.
Now the dressmakers are rejoicing. for
these toilettes can be worn but once, and
: |, trr Aoy, ~ a I'd
over"
Never before have we had such an ex-
travagant season, for deliberately brocaded
velvets, silk with frise velvet designs upon
them, infniJesimally striped velvets and
velvets bearing pompadour patterns upon
them figure IN every woman's wardrobe
who aspires to be a la mode, for the en-
pire, Louis XIV and Louis XVI styles are
TO prevail.
Such announcements are fairly appall-
ing for those with limited means, so a
word of advice; Have g, good and stylish
cloth dress made for ordinary wear, then
purchase the best black silk you can afford
for skirt and sufficient rich velvet, bro
caded silk or satin for q LoEis WI
coat Spare no expense about that
for with different waistcoats or vests
you can always look charming during
the entire season. The black skirt will pay
in the end if OF good silk, as you can wear
it in the evening with light waists For
the coat 1 greatly prefer shades of olive
green, brown or violet. One OF these three
colors is sure to be becoming, but green
and violet go best with black for calling
costume. Now, about the waistcoat. One
should certainly be of white corded silk or
satin embroidered in gold or beautified
with fur and lace or fur and chiffon. Both
are fashionable. Another should be of
fabric prettily contrasting with the coat
for instance. fit is green have a vest effect
of becoming shade of yellow. If slender
You may have frills of chiffon edged with
little black spangles. In fact, / could sug-
gest dozen novelties, but presume you
all can do likewise.
Girls, do consult your eyes, complexion,
coloring, in fact everything, before pur-
chasing anything, as by doing this you
may pose as bellies, whereas you are only
dubbed stylish by leaving everything to
your dressmaker; however, of course, if