The morning times., 1895-10-27
World Searched
For a Trousseau
, DOZEN NATIONS WILL SUPPLY
THE VANDERBILT FINERY.
Furs for a Princess and Laces
and Silks That Will
Be Priceless.

VI ddffDbTOut-u Mtih Nffe
on foot at Marble House for the collection
of what undoubtedly will be the most mag
niflcent trousseau any woman, GuchesSeS
not excepted. ever received from her
mother. At least it is Mrs. Vanderbilt
ambition 10 provide her daughter with q
Sardrobe 30 superb that every article
will become an heirloom.
GENERAL SCHEME.
Just as war-ship builders keep on file the
power and dimensions OF all The record
breakers owned by other nations, SO Mrs.
Vanderbilt possesses exact lists and de
scriplions OF all the famous modern bridal
outfits. She knows just what the respect
i've daughters of Mrs. Astor, the Duchess of
Coburg. Mrs. Mackey, Mrs. Bradley Mar.
tin. Mrs. Jay Gould and even the Lady
Grosvenor, daughter of the Duke OF West
minster, received IN the way of clothes at
their weddings, and her effort VIII be TO
surpass all these. instructions accordingly
have been cent out.
From Siberia, Venezuela and Alaska,
the furs viii be supplied. Paris and Vienna
contribute the gowns and hats, while Brus
Sells, New York. London, Venice, Dublin
and even Yokohama are all going to be the
richer for this new anglo-American ALI
ance.
QUlChr WORK IN PARlS-
As there would be no time for a shop
eing expedition to Paris, Mrs. Vanderbilt
has given the ma jority of orders by cable,
and week after the engagement was pub
lie property a skillful, trusty French wom-
an came over, bearing n big box full of
samples and drawings. These were sent
by the Paris houses of the Rue de la Paix,
Rue Castilogne and Beulevards Aialesherbs
and des Capucines, where Mrs. Vanderbilt
is valued and regular patron. These ar9
little shops, each dealing in a speciality. AT
pne only corsets aud silk petticoatS are
made, another supplies silk and linen shirt
waists, and there are saDctums where
bridal underwear alone is made by order,
OF where gloves, wedding shoes or neck
decorations are treated in perfection of
detail.
At all these places Miss Consuelo Van
derbilt has shopped, and in wax are kept
exact reproductions of her head, figure,
feet and hands, as well as a description of
her coloring, height, carriage, etc. So
that every article OF dress can be prepared
without single try on, yet guaranteed to
fit.
THE BRIDES BEAUTY.
Miss Vanderbilt is joy to the French
artistic. She is tall, typical American
girl, with greyhound waist, supple,
rounded and long thplated as a Leley por-
trait. Her head is small and weighted
with masses OF wayy dark hair. her shoul
ders slope graciously, her face is deli
cate oval, and her taste and sweet temper
so compelling that even ROun, that inde-
pendenly autocratic. sharp-tongued ge-
MUS of headgeaT, before whom even prin-
cesses tremble, but obey, is unqualified
in her admiration and Civility to the Ameri-
can heiress.
ter, and that agent with the Samples, were
closeted in profound conciave. and every
day by cable an order reached some one
of those Paris shops, bearing that magic
word, carte e-bianche.
The first order went to a dealer in
handkerchiefs. Two dozen perfectly plain
white ones were sent at once to famous
convent far out on the Rue st. Honore, or
cloistered nuns, noted for their fncom-
parable embroidery In this convent the
handkerchiefs for the yeung Empress of
Russia s trousseau We're decorated. Every
handkerchief has a special design for its
ornameniation. Some of them will have
rich, old bits OF Valenciennes lace worked
Into the linen, amid wreaths of lilies-of
the valley, Miss Vanderbilt's favorite
flower In some instances the border and
Initials Will be done in dra wn work. and EN-
broidered over. Occasionally will appear a
great C, lily twined. Consuelo, written out
in Miss yanderbilt's own graceful cilirog-
raphy, b1t over name and initial always
is embroidered the duchess coronct, large
or small, and frequently the Marlborough
coat of arms
AN HEIRLOOM
The wedding handkerchief is a gift of
the duke, a wonderful historical piece Of
Venice point, given Sarah, the famous
duchess hg lnSg than
Anne herself, and used by she bride of
every Marlborough duke ever since. The
precious piece is 10 be mounted anew on a
tiny heartshaped center of the finest linen
lawn.
Some of the lesser mouchoirs are white,
brOched over 18th wee rose buds, or bits
of pink linen, wi iih his medallions of black
lace let into them. A few are diamond
shaped, Y hite, sprinlled with infinitesimal
blue stars, or rouEd with a While lace C
embroidered down in the center, and a
wide frili of lace ON the edge. In all, there
are ten dozen, not one over nine and a half
inches square.
OF the Seyenty-fiye Cow ms included in the
trousseag not one Will be sent out with less
than two pairs of its own particular stock
tngs. The majority ofthis footgear isof silk,
running through every known variation
of tint and shade. One pair is pow cred
with silver and iridescent paicttes. -sewed
on In crescent forms, or figured over with
finely cut steel beads. There are lovely
ones in flesh tinted silk, SO embroidered
in gold threads and imitation Jew els as to
represent the gorgeous anklets of Eastern
women. Black ones in spun silk are open
worked nearly TO the knee, with lacings Of
gold and colored silk threads. Sometimes
in black and W hite the open work is nothing
less than finest lace. Such are the " hite
wedding stockings, having Brussels lace
let in over the instep, the lace showing a
coronet in its neshes. Nothing could be
more charming than a set of stockings in
rich bluette blue silk, showing elaborate
delft blue clocks, and another pair in blue,
with a flight of gray and white swallows
over the instep, are for wear with an
elaborate blue dressing gown of thick
creped silk, lined with gray satin and dear
little heelless, pointed busl1in slippers made
of blue silk and blue leather, laced and
tied with silk cords. .
TOILING NUNS.
The orders for underlinen, corsets and
silk petticoats, are sufficient TO almost
enrich the makers for life. Nearly every
piece of linen goes, on its completion. to
the aforementioned convent. To receive
the coronet and initials, keeping twenty
nuns laboring far into the nights. Every
where full frillings of Valenciennes are
used on the lawn and nainsook, as suft as
chiffon.
For years and years Mrs. Vanderbilt has
been collecting this lace for her daugh-
ter's trousseau, buying none but the oldest
and richest products of the town of Valen-
ciennos. For much of 1t a guinea
square inch was paid at London lace
auctions, and 1t even oyerflows into the
beautiful corsets of brocaded silk, every
pair of which is made to harmonize with
the petticoats. sixty in number, and fairly
stiff with damasked splenetors.
All the corsets are short and very plia bic.
So svelt a figure as their future wearer
1aaaAs oil 1la az Ell In Ia,od