The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-04-02

uus. AS we advanced the hill became
sleeper When about half way up, our
donkeys stopped and refused to move, and
only after much coaxing and shrieking
Of the Arabic Arrerio did they consent to
go-not in a straight line but in fence
corners going from one side to the other
to secure their footing
When mine reached the top, he celebrat-
ed the victory by plunging into the town,
running against the projecting caves of
one of the low matched huts and landing
me on the ground. l had scarcely gather
ed myself up when a woman in the pecul-
lar Moorish garb, with a baby strapped
upon her back, came up to me. She said
something in Arabic which / tried to in
terpret as sympathy for my misfortune
Her face was uncovered and her chin tat
tooed, which told that she belonged to the
Riff tribe. This tribe claims to be the
pure descendants of the ancient Berbers,
the original white race of northern Africa,
according to Herodotus. Here they are
usually spoken of as Moors or Arabs,
though distinct from each, from the former
in their fairer compilations and fanat-
ical hatred Of the Christians, from the lat
ter in preferring hut to a tent and in
generally travelling and fighting afoot
They are the most cruel and savage tribe
in Marocco.
They are almost always at war, not
only with their neighbors, but among
themselves. Their feuds at present make
1t dangerous for the traveller to 20 from
Tahgler to Tetuan. The Marocco gov
eminent encourages their animosities in
the hope of weakening their power and
strength, which, if united, would be most
dangerous to the country. The men dress
in a sleeveless wooden jacket and trousers,
with occasionally blanket or baracan
over It, Their heads are closely shaven
with the exception Of one long lock be.
hind, which they carefully guard, for
without it they could not be pulled into
heaven. They wear short mustaches and
a small tuft of beard on the chin and go
mostly bareheaded and barefooted.
But my companions have now arrived
You must get on at once" said DR..
Barclay, "for these Riffs were never known
to call their savage dogs from the hated
Christian" had scarcely regained my
saddle when dog, apparently relative
Of the American coyote, appeared. He
yelled, barked and growled and became
faithful attendant of our donkeys' heels as
we passed on through the village. Women
and children were sitting near the open
doorways. But where are all the men?
They are either tending their focks or
perhaps out on the forage while their
women remain at home to protect their
scanty huts and their miserable half
naked offspring. Some of the women are
grinding corn between two large stones,
some are washing clothes in peculiar old
earthen pans and Others are busily engaged
in making the Moorish rugs so highly
priced in the western market. The kitch-
en-, too, is often In the open air. for some
are cooking over little charcoal fires.
In the center of the village is large
square house freshly whitewashed. On
its fat roof stands black women in
fantastic costume of many colors and large
golden hoops in her ears. AS we look up
she smiles and displays brand on her
check, which tells that she Is a bond
woman.
Slavery still exists in Marocco. The old
slave market of Tangier is now a thing
of the past but private buying and selling
of the negroes brought from Sudan still
goes on.
We now see an opening in the formid.
able wall Of prickly cactus. Through it
we are glad to make our escape, as our
first dog has enlisted recruits too numer-
Gus and ferocious to make longer stay
agreeable. And we bid adieu to the Moor
ish village, heading a procession of bark
ing ours, which are no doubt in the minds
of the Mosiems fit escorts for Christian
dogs like ourselves
JENNIE POMERINE.