The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1895-07-26

in the way of trimming and make. It
is most depressing to wear mourning
garments at the best and to be in COM
pany with those whose somber habiIi-
ments tell Of recent bereavement, and
while a little judicious ornament or
elaborateness in the application of the
Grape does not show disrespect for the
dead it is certainly less depressing for
the wearer and beholder than the hard
lines heretofore deemed necessary.
Widows still wear the close bonnet
with it's white cap that tells its story Of
the wrench that tore apart a loving cou-
pie Some widows wear white null
strings to their bonnets or sitter book
muslin tied in set and rather stiff bows
under the chin. Others have black
strings, but generally speaking the
white ones look the best. The veil is
long and heavy and for the first two
months should be worn over the face.
The gown may be and often is entirely
covered with English Grape, which is
the only kind suitable or indeed ever
used for deep mourning, or the gown it.
self may be of eudora cloth, silk warp
henrietta, or where these goods are too
expensive very fine black cashmere can
be used. But cashmere is too soft to look
we'll with heavy Grape. The old bonn
bazine was good, but has few adherents
on account of its weight. The silk warp
fabrics have just the right weight and
frmness. The dress, then, for first
mourning may be of eudOra and have
the Grape added to any depth or amount,
and later the Grape may be removed,
leaving a perfect dress, quite elegant
enough for any occasion and still be
mourning gown by association with the
always present veil. Shorter wells may
be worn after six months for ordinary
occasions, but for church or any other
similar need the long veil is de rigueur.
Capes and cloaks follow the fashion
Of the day in form, but are always trim
med heavily with Grape and sometimes
1usterless ribbon. The lady of truly re-
fined taste Will not use glittering jet on
any article of her attire.
For the grown daughters who have
lost parent there are handsome gowns
which are sufficiently ornate to please
any taste without being frivolous. The
Oldest daughter wears a veil hanging
from the back of her bonnet as long as
she wishes to have it, with a fine net
veil with an inch wide Grape border over
the face She can have ribbon or Grape
bows and a few black flowers or dull
wings. The dress for first mourning
may be laid in panels with Grape and
eudora alternating, or her whole dress
may be of Grape with insets of cloth at
the bottom of the skirt. Her waist may
be blouse shaped of Grape, with its
combination slightly ornamented with
dull jet. These matters are generally
left to the dressmaker and the individ-
ual taste of the wearer, but in any case
the combination is always sharply
marked. Black crepon and lisse ruch-
ings are frequently seen at the necks and
wrists of mourning gowns. One home
gown which was made for a second
daughter had plain skirt with an inset
panel of Grape, the rest being silk warp
henrietta. The vest front was Grape,
with revers of the dress goods wrought
with fine dull jet. The collar was the
! same. Beneath the revers were the short
/ falls of embroidered silk Grape. Small
! cuffs added a touch of dressiness.
In lingerie for half mourning there
are sheer muslin collars and cuffs
stitched with black and edged with
crepe hsse rulings, white or black.
Some collars for home wear have quite