St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1895-08-19


numbered with any underbrush. For
| miles on either side you can look far
| down long aisles of green flooded with
| golden sunshine. The two middle
| stages are not so agreeable, as you
| drive over those endless Arizona mesas
| through clouds of binding dust. It's
not warm, though. [ expected to be
drilled alive, but in July, crossing these
plains, 1 wore a thick jacket and had
a heavy wool robe across my lap and
was none too warm.
THE DRIVER.
Fortunate indeed will you be if you
get the box seat with Robert Ferguson,
driver Ferguson, a handsome,
brawny Scotch-American, has wintered
for seven years down in the canyon.
He knows every nook and corner of
it, every bit of light and shade. He
understands it's every mood, he tells
you in wonderfully beautiful language
just how it looks after a thunderstorm,
whsn the silver mists are lifting from
its hidden charms as a lovely woman
slowly lifts her veil, or how the moon
light touches it's cragS and plnnacleS,
bringing out it's contours with new
attraction, or how the sunrise floods it
with a light that never was on sea or
land. Ferguson is the man who filled
out Powell'S pack train for his first
explorations of the canyon, and he tells
you many interesting stories of the
daring explorer. He lets you drive, too,
and shows you how to handle the four
finland and enlightens you as to the
tricks of the leaders and in every way
helps to make the tedious journey pass
quickly He's a character, is Fergu-
son-typically western. whole souled,
breezy, chivalrous, rough Sir Walter
Raleigh who puts his corduroy jacket
unC er your feet for a footstool.
Wen you reach '''e camp, you fall
into the hands, no. the PhllSllneS,
but the Tolfrees and Ming. The
Tolfrees are California folks who come
to the canyon every summer to take
care of the wayfarers, and Ming is
the Celestial who does the cooking.
Now, remember, you are seVenty-hVe
miles from a railroad. Every VeSeta-
BILE, every steak, every egg is brought
you sit down to beautifully clean
table in the dining tent and eat a
deliciously cooked, appetizIng meal,
daintily served you py tMo
you rub your eyes and wonder whether
you are awake.
The beds. too. are excellent, clean
and comfortable, and as, lying IN your
soughing OF the wind through the
pines, you think that wild and Wooiiy
Arizona is not a half bad place after
ALL You will leave that camp regret
fully-peaceful, restful place that II Is!
and more than once will you think
of "Ming's" cooking-those delicious
pies, that cake, those 1apjacks!
JOHN HANCE'S PERIL.
All the way from Albuquerque you
have been hearing about John Hanee.
Hance has lived UP at the camp for
twelve years. He owns two trails into
the canyon, has peak named for him
and is possibly the most distinguished
citizen in that sparsely settled local
ity. But perhaps his chief claim to
consideration arises from the tact
American fak:r. Whether it is because
he has lived alone so much, some
times not hearing the sound or a hu-
man voice among those awful soil
tudes for six months, and mas fallen
into the habit of inVenting yarns to
pass the time I know not, but certain
~ Munchausen must hang his head
before John Hance. was warned be,
fore l went to the camp, BE sure ana
get him to tell you the story of his
horse Jumping over into the canyon"
So when we sat in his daintily swept
and freshly scrubbed log cabin, hang
ing on the rim of the canyon like an
eagles nest to a tree, after much en-
tertainfng conversation, 1 said: Cap
tain, what was the greatest peril you
were ever exposed top
WAL" he said promptly, II reckon
twas when my boss jumped right clean
over the precipice and fell over 5000
feet, with me on his, back a,.
Dear me-" l said, land you Hved?''
"Why, yest 'Tain't SO easy ter Kill
! John Hance. 1 reckon l hain't sense
--;+ Ill
scared at some mountain sheep ana
| drove 'em right over into the canyon.
l seen he was a-goin' after EN-, and
1 SEE, Now, John, hang on and |
| Jest give him the whip and spur, and
over we went. Now, mind ye, while;
| he was a-fallin [ was a-rldin, and jest
before we struck the bottom OF the
| canyon l jumped off, and so saved my
| life. He went on and was dashed to
! pieces
All this without a blush or tremor
| of the eyelids There was silence for
| the space of half a minute, and then,
while the Harvard professor, who was
with me, looked sadly at the floor, /
said, Now, captain, L know just as
| we'll as you that | am tenderfoot,
| but you can't expect me to believe that
| yarn"
STRONG PROOF.
'I never tell no stories can't prove -
replied John Hance, Of Arizona. Come
|
| doorway of his cabin he pointed down
| 5000 feet into the canyon: Rig ut
! down there, do We see that white spot
! Yes? Waal, them's the bones of that
| thar critter a-bleachin."
| Most remarkable theory in physics
| unused the Harvard professor as We
| walked back to camp. The horse was
falling, you notice, and Ha an IVA, was
riding Astounding t md ne sho ;n
yestigation proved that them bones
| a-bleachin'' We're the remains of q
pack horse belonging, to cowboy,
John evidently found them bones
and wove his delightful little story
| around them.
Hance takes people down the trails
| into the canyon and charges for his
| pack horse and his company Sl2 day
for each person, which, of course, II
entertainment he provides. 1t is q
| frightfully rough trip for a lady anc
seldom undertaken. a woman must
ride astride going down. She shoulc
tights, high cloth CATERS or leggins,
| thick shoes, one or two sizes too large
for her feet, and very short skirt
| A loose blouse of silk or some wash
are absolutely necessary, An Alpine
stick will be found useful on the re-
turn if one wearies of the horse and
wishes to walk awhile Men should
| provide themselves with high boots
| such as miners wear or leather leg
gings coming to the knees. Never &C
into the canyon without whisky and
| ammonia, in case of rattlers. The
best plan to follow in visiting the bot
tom of the canyon is to go down one
day. stay all night at Hance's winter
cabin, and return the next morning
The view at night looking up the cam
| Won walls is indescribabl!s~m ma gnificent
EDITH SESSIONS UPPER.
| IA NecISlet of Gems on the Bosom
of the Mountain,'7
| AS Lake Louise Mirror lake and Lake