The herald., 1895-08-04
That Is How a Chicago
Woman Is Coming
Wealth
SHE IS AN ARTIST IN THIS
Tells Fair Bicycle Riders the Kind OF
Clothes They Ought to Wear.
Says Boomers Will Soon Be
the Street Costume

says the Chicago Times-Herad.
Mrs. Waters is petite young woman
with big brown eyes and wide, kiEd
suile." She is extremely brisk and en-
ergetic, and possesses some original ideas
Is to the proper garb for women who
ride. She is q member of the Illinois Cy-
cling club, and is a skiliful ana rapid
rider, although she does not aspire to
record-breaking honors. When asked by
q representative of the Times Herald how
she happens ed to engage in the business
of designing costumes, she smiled and
said: ~ just drifted into it. Last sum-
mer I wore skirts and was constantly
meeting with accidents or finding myself
in EN- ar-assing positions on account OF
them. hesitated about wearing boomers,
they were so hideous, but rather than give
up riding | determined to purchase q
suit. Those I found in the shops did not
suit me, so / bought some cloth an d took
1t 10 my dressmaker, explaining to her
nv idea of costume. The result was far
from satisfactory. and in despair | betook
myself to o man s tailor, ana told him
exactly what | wanted. When the suit
came home | was delighted with it, as in
1t were com bined comfort. beauty and
modesty. You notice that put comfort
first. That was the first reqisite of my
ideal costume. but | was determined 1T
should not be obtained at tie expense OF
the other two.
II received many compliments on the
beauty of my new costume, and OF course
felt highly tiattered. One after another
of my friends requested me to design
costumes especially for them. and did
so willingly. Finally man asked me
how much | would charge to design a
h Sc inn
tune she was then wearing was an eye
sore to him. Jokingly | named sum
and thought no more about 1t. The next
day he brought her down. She was
short, stout woman, and was wearing
coat which came but little below the
waist line, full sleeves and q pair of those
punched up in-the- back ploomers. | took
pity on her and suggested either one of
two costumes. One was three-quarter
length coat. SINGLE breasted, with Nor
folk Jacket effect. You know what mean?
But the plaits must be narrow; say about
one inch wide. This was to be belted
in at the waist and worn with full bloom
ers.
1.-The second costume suggested was
straight box back, three button, single
breasted cut away coat with round cor
ners and medium sized sleeves, full
boomers and Stanley cap and leggngs
OF the color of the costume. She adopted
the latter suggestion and looked very
we'll in the suit Her husband was
greatly pleased and insisted on my ac-
cepting compensation. From that time
became q designing woman. If you
could only see some OF the women who
come TO me-
As if in answer TO her wish a tall,
angular female of uncertain age came in.
You design bicycle costumes for
ladies'? (Ihis with II decided accent of
the last word.)
Il do"
Now, can you get NE up a costume
that is really modest; something that |
could wear withoutssmaking myself
laughing stock for the horrid men?'
Certainly can. How would some.
her the sketch OF a costume. 1t con-
listed or a Tuxedo coat, double-breas ted,
full sleeves, and bloomers coming just be-
low the knees, meeting with leggirgs.
This, made up in dark brown broad
cloth. would be becoming. If you do not
like the Tuxeoo coat a one-button cuta-
way would do nicely
30, could not think of wearing any
thing of that soft 1t is positively bold
ana immodest. the thin woman faliereo
out. Now | had an idea that | would
like my boomers to come to the ankle.
A coat is too dreadfully mannish.
Couldn't you fix me something like
regular waist with, of course, a ruffle or
something coming down to cover the
nips?"
81 am sorry. madam, but 1 could not
design anything of that sort that would
give you satisfaction" said Mrs. Waters,
decided ". And the thin woman departed.
Deliver me from these women with
ideas of their own" was Mrs. Waters
explanation, as she watched the vanish
ing figure.
Now do you understand why | say
that designing bicycle costmes is a serious
<tarc hat ia .n aN+pn nt,ti m of
course. The majority of them place them
selves absolutely in my hands. | study
the figure, the hair and complexion and
endeavor to make the costume to suit all
three. | have been successful in the busi-
ness and this | attribute solely 10 the fact
shat each costume is designed especially
for the woman who is to wear it, OF
course there IS little variety in styles, but
there are many little finishing touches
which help to make costume distinctive
and particularly appropriate to different
individuals.
81 am careful to impress upon my pa.
irons the importance Of apnroprilte head
gear and footwear. In my estim alton
these are nearly as important as the color
of the costume itself If l knew that
woman was going TO wear much
. trimmed hat with one of my costumes |
would never again design a suit for her.
1t seems to me that d sensible woman
would see the incongruity existing be.
tween Dutch bonnet and bloomer suit.
Who would dream OF appearing on horse
back in tailor made habit topped off
with foyer garden hat. Yet the one
is no more ridiculous than the other"
''How about knickerboCkers. Mrs.
Waters? Do you approve of them?'
No, | do not, although | design cos
tunes of winch they form part Bloom
ers answer all purposes Just as we'll as
the 'knicks' and are more graceful and
modest. All my knickerbocker costumes
are made with long coats, sometimes like
q Prince Albert buttoned to the waist.
''Once in while | have chance to
design a really beautiful and artistic cos
TIME, like this. for instance. A young
lady, magnificent brunette, is going to
quiet resort in search of health She
wants comfortable and pretty costume
in which to lounge about. Understand,
she does not ride
The material was of white felt. The
coat was double breasted. lined and faced
with rose pink satin and closed with
large pearl buttons. 1t was made with
the English coat back, finished with two
pearl buttons OF smaller size. Full
bloomers, heavy ribbed white stockings,
white shoes, white cap and white shirt,
with pink tie, formed the rest of the
costume IN which the dashing brunette
must have made picture not soon to
have been forgotten.
Another costume for the same girl was
letter carriers gray" the peculiar
blush tint of which was most effective