The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-11-24
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.


New York, Nov. 3.-"Howling swell"
is an expressive. if inelegant, term which
probably originated on the foot ball field.
1t used to be exclusively masculine gen
der. but since the advent of new women
and boomers it has come to be applied
to both sexes alike.
Those who have ever attended one of
the great Thanksgiving games nave seen
the 'swels" and heard them howl-some
say, see them howl referring to their
gorgeous attire but the well-dressed fem
mine swell, however brilliantly gowneG,
is never loud. That is just the distinc-
ton between elegance and its tasteless
imitation
There are a few annual events in New
York which constitute sort of social al
manac by which all swelldom regulates
it's wardrobe and its peregrinations. The
smart set usually gets back from Newport
in time to get some stunning gowns for
the horse show
The athletic set and those who have
college connections are sure to be on hand
for the Thanksgiving games This year
the interest has been divided between the
two games Whether to see Harvard anc
Pennsylvania at Cambridge or Yale and
Princeton on the Manhattan field is a
question which finally resolves itself in
to one of locality, biased, of course, by
college afiinities.
New Workers see the Yale and Prince
ton fight, and though the superficial OBJ
server might imagine that such an event
has little bearing upon fashion, il is the
very climax OF the autumn dress parade,
and the turning point to straight winter
stYles.There is no longer any indecision as
TO which mode will prevail. Winter coats
and furs are out in fun force. Stunning
gowns, interlined to make them warm
enough without wraps, have fur trim
mings that give them wintry look.
One of the most striking costumes
brought out for the event Of the season
has striped skirt with bands of fur
trimming running mp each side of the
front The jacket shaped bodice is edged
with fur, and tho whole effect is one
of jauntness and daring.
The close-itting fur Jacket that was
so popular last season still holds its place
and is formidable rival of the box coat.
The box coat is decidedly American
There is nothing French about It. Par
isians viii ehaVe nothing that does not
define the outlines of the figure, and
this American garment has loose front
There is one exception to this French
law against nCn-htting coats: il is the
wrap which comes near TO being a
cape. being pleated to a yoke, and al
lowed to hang loose both back and front
Very MANY of the imported wraps are
made in this style, and they have found
considerable favor. A theater wrap made
in this style is especially desira BILE as il
docs rot crush the gown beneath Il
Such a wrap, with sleeves that hook
together after the arm has been slim
ped through, is ideal. The one wrap
which / have seen of this description
had immersed shocked velvet sleeves
without any seams. on the under side
of the arm whore one looks for a seam
the sleeve hooked together Just below
the elbow. The coat hung loose from
the neck to a point several inches below
the waist, and was ACCORDION pleated
Coat collars and neck trimmings of
all kinds are very high. 1t is a good
season for mumps and toothache among
the fashiOnables for by turning up a full
collar to its full hight, the head and face
can be almost completely concealed. thus
ensuring all the warmth of cotton BAT
ting and flannel salt bags.
Collars that are not intended for pro-
lection against the elements are almost
as high as outdoor neckwear. Box pleated
net ruches frame a pretty face in or out
of doors, for il is not out of place TO
combine lace and fur on any sort OF
gown.
The fur boa with its bunch of violets
and its fan of lace just under the chin
is once more in evidence
This seasons muffs are the most con
| Spicuous of the fur goods. however and
! IL is straining a point to call them fur
too \ mun used to consist of a TEN
inch band of fur with a satin lining
and a little WaGding between Now
nobody knows what a mum is going to
be until he sees il. 1t is as Indefinite
as a bonnet. II may be "A TINY affafr
just big enough for one hand. or 10 NAV
be a conglomeratiOn Of velvet bows each
large enough TO accommodate hand
and little band Of fur pceping out be-
tween them here and there. a brown vol
Vet mutt with loops end ends standing out