The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28


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We all have read and heard a great deal
about the feelings of jealousy entertained
toward our girls in English circles, and L
can assure you the French are quite as de-
slrous OF having our bellies stay at home,
so when the Marchioness of Dufferln. wife
of the British Minister in Paris, announced
that at the annual reception given at the
embassy she would be assisted IN recelV-
ing exclusively by women of American
birth who had intermarrled with the Eng
hsh aristocracy, you can imagine tno
amount of comment such an unusual pro-
ceeding created, for the crown OF the BTU
ish empire was represented on the female
side exclusively by fair Americans. 10
say the least, most were on the qul we 10
criticize, but that our representatives were
beyond unfavorable remarks goes without
saving, and one Paris correspondent writes
that ''never did the social tact ana quick
power of suiting themselves TO customs
and manners different from those IN Whlch
they had been brought up SHINE more re-
markablv than in the well-bred and dlgn1-
fed manner in which our fair compatrlots
assisted the noble MaIchioness IN her oner-
ous but grateful task" and this writer
adds:
Great Britain has shown a great deal of
sound common-sense in thus avall1ng her
self of the charms and brilliancy of her
American cousins to lend eclat to one of
the most important functions OF the en-
bassadorial office, namely, to outdo all
competition by blending "the meteor flag OF
England and the graceful fold of the star
spangled banner" and thus to show the
,-lI hot sc pl-ar hon UQt
Speaking of Parisians recalls to my
mind some of their latest bathing cos
tunes. Well we may talk about "un-
womanIy" bicycle costumes, but the worst
of them are highly proper when compared
with the latest Partisan marine confection.
The designs and delicacy of the materials
emploved are matters OF wonderment to
the uninitiated. One bathing dress is de-
scribed as being of pale blue washing silk,
cut in the shape of a blouse, and barely
extending below the hips. The blouse
is made very low in the neck,
with a hanging fril of silk, from
four 10 six inches in depth, and
trimmed with three rows of narrow dark
blue silk braid. 1t is Delted around the
waist with purple sash and has sleeves
reaching the elbow trimmed to match the
skirt, which is accordion pleated, adorned
with three rows of braid. The trousers are
tight-itting and come just above the
knees. The wearer's head is covered with
a light blue silk toque, having a bow tied
in front in the latest style, called pigs
ear" The lower limbs are unclad. l for
bear TO express what l think of this get-up.
One of the best swimmers here is a
dainty bit of a woman, who wears an
alpaca bathing dress, consisting of blouse
waist, trousers and a full skirt reaching
her knees. The skirt and blouse are
trimmed with wide white braid, and black
silk hose complete a most suitable and eX-
eellent costume, as the alpaca readily sheds
the water and never severely outlines the
wearer's figure. The prettiest bathing dress
seen at Newport this season is composed
of chameleon brilIiantine. This is a new
weave of changeable alpaca, In which no
one color predominates, and Is described
as being distinctly crisp and fresh-looking.
/ wonder if Inventor Hammerstein will
carry out his idea Of opening his theater in
New York with barefoot balletP The
idea is odious. | presume 1T will be called
a Trilbyism, if I may coin the word.
Dainty gowns of muslin, lace, foulard
and everything imparting an air OF fresh
ness, simplicity and youthfulness are more
the rage than ever before, the craze for
such fabrics increasing as the summer ad-
Vances. One gown recently worn at Del
Monte by a charming woman was of
creamy white foulard covered with loose
bunches of pale and dark violets far apart.
The skirt was beautifully gored and edged
with a ruche of ecru lace. The bodice of
violet silk taffeta, being draped with cream
colored mousseline de sole, tapering to the
waist, had shirred epaulettes which fitted
over the wide foulard elbow sleeves. The
collarband and sleeve rosettes were of
violet silk.
The new arrangement called the fbib
'front.' is in high favor and becomes pret-
tier and prettIer, and the blouse front
holds its own, for, although every one
wears bloused effects, only those who can
afford the best of modistes ever have par
ticle of style; however, when any fashion
becomes general it cannot last long with
out complex notifications.
What a contrast after chatting about
mGslins and all its kin to hear, almost IN
the same breath, that cloth of gold is the
latest introduction for bodices. One beauti-
full black satin dress lately designed has
low swathed bodice of this exquisite gold
cloth, and the sleeves are frill upon frill
of black chiffon. The shoulder-straps are
the waist.
In striking contrast to this gown is
description of waist which may be OF use
to larger number of readers; it was made
by young woman after French model.
Two and half yards of striped lawn, pale
rose and light green, were used for the
corsage. On one side, all along its length,
were five rows of shirring which, when
drawn together, formed the yoke. You
see. there were no seams in this, and the
stripes ran horizontally. When the threads
were drawn up the yoke was fitted and
adjusted. and then a horizontal slit was
cut, through which the arms passed. later
this was cut out, when the material had
been drawn in place and the felt adjusted.
Sometimes seam is necessary under the
arms. The sleeves were leg-of-mutton in
style, having the material cut on the cross.
When completed the waist was trimmed
with pale-green ribbon straps over the
these ending, both back and
front, with rosettes of the same shade,
having pink centers; a folded belt of the
satin fastened with a similar rosette, quite
a large one, on the left side. A collar of
the ribbon tied in one of the large bows
now so fashionable completed an unusually
pretty waist. From this little bodice