Omaha daily bee., 1895-10-06
wI.TER
Fayorite Materials for Bridal Gowns
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NEW YORK. Oct. 3.-In spite OF all pre-
iiction to the contrary, new wedding gowns,
Il seems, are to differ in no great degree
from the old ones. This was decided 20
American satisfaction early ip the game OF
season changes, by the Ritchie-Tooker we'd
ding, which took place at Newport some
weeys ago. For though there had been
considerable talk Of a possible revision to
the old fashioned low neck and bare arms
styles, Mrs. Ritchie's marriage bodice, which
was declared by best opinion In such mat
tiers as a mode Of taste and correctness, was
the same high-necked, long sleeved shape
our brides have worn these many moons.
The material of this much talked of costume.
too, was recognized as a familiar friend, be-
Ing the thick ivory white duchesse satin that
has been so long "in,' 1t now seems almost
TO have come down to us from our mothers.
1t is decreed that new bridal trains shall
be round, and measure Just ffty-ive inches
in length. A single thickness Of coarse, white
lawn Is the sole interlining used for these.
The front and sides of the skirt are without
interlining. having at these points only the
taffetl or gros grain silk that lines the rest
of the skirt; and a thing to be
is that these trained jupes are to be abso-
lutely without crinoline. For this reason
alone, aside from wedding traditions, which
exact that the bridal textures should be Of
the best, IL is wise to get the heaviest silk or
satin that can be afforded.
AS to the shaping of skirts, the old model
of three front cores and godet back seems
to hold its own.
The trained jupes are no exception to this
rule, and when made In this way the train
and side cores are sewed up together. This
is the French model, and it Is considered
the most elegant and modish Of the two,
though an English design, which has a full
gathered train hanging loose over a petit
coat front is very effective. Where this last
is used the p~etticoat may be entirely of lace,
or else the same as the train, and decorated
with sprays of flowers or a draped lace
founce.
The godeted skirt Is usually perfectly
plain, though a very splendid one, lately
imported for a November bride, had each
seam outlined with a narrow vine of orange
blossoms.
RICH STUFFS.
Though not more elegant. brocatelle is
more effective than satin, and threatens to
rival 1t as a bride material.
Certain heavy corded silks in almost a
bengalinc weave-that it, with the slender
raised bengaline cord-will also be much
used, and two novel designs, feur de lis
or love knots, in the brocatelle, may be sug-
gested as superior to the boquet patterns.
A marriage toilet just imported from Felix
was of this love knotted brocatelle. and to
the sentimental mind the little foolish bows
seemed very appropriate.
AS to the bridal bodice, the only exac-
tions are the high neck and long sleeves
aforementioned.
This, however, some dressmakers de-
clare, is only a matter Of taste; but when
deeply questioned on the point, two of our
smartest contourierres declare they would
rather lose hundreds Of dollars than send
a decollete wedding gown from their
doors.
Lace and flowers may be used on the
bodice at discretion, but beaded stuffs are