The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-03-25
WORTH'S WIFE THE ARTIST.
THE REAL DESIGNER A YOUNG
WOMAN IN HIS EMPLOY.

- hehetf"thEE INTO Ills W Ork shop.
IL Remained for an American
Woman. Mrs. "BOnanza- Mnckay,
TO Beat Him in Audacity of Expen-
sive Dress.
From the New York Press.
The famous Worth did not design the
costumes which made him celebrated. The
real designer was a young woman in his
employ. whom he married to prevent her
starting a rival establishment.
This is the sensational story which
Paris has unearthed and is now talking
about with great avidity. 1t is a story
which throws a geart deal of doubt upon
the originality hitherto attributed 10
Worth. and makes one wonder whether,
after all, he deserved his reputation.
In the early days of his business career
he had in his establishment a woman who
was known as his designer. So largely
did his sales increase and 80 much in
vogue We're the designs OF his "artiste
modiste" that each year he was Obliged
to make very large increase in her sal
airy. Even then she became, as the French
say. very difficult" and often mentioned
the possibility of setting up for herself.
With that possibility in view brilliant
idea came to Worth-he asked the design
er to become his wife. When the mar
riase contract was drawn up. not only
was the designer to be Nine. Worth, but
she figured as an equal partner in the
business.
Whether it was Worths own arrange
ment or the idea Of the clever French
woman whom he had married (for French
women are the greatest business women in
the world, 1t is hard to say; but certain It
is that from this time on Nine Worth
disappeared, as it were, from view. and.
it was Monsieur Worth who designed the
costumes made at his establishment. It
was NJ. Worth who assured his distln-
guished customers that he would consider
what could best suit madame and the oc-
casion, and that on the next visit he
would give his ideas" 1t was monsieur
and not madame, who became known to
the world over as the great milliner dress
maker, designer, etc. Yet his ideas" were
always evolved in private, away from
the view of those who were to profit by
when, on subsequent visit, the wearers
retired to another room and with the
embodied ideas" in a costume or cloak
return with filter into the august pres
ence of the supposed designer, to receive
slight criticisms and suggestions as to
the fit and becomingness. NJ. Worth gained
great effect by occasionally replacing a
pin a seam or in a part of the drapery.
French people have not a particle Of
faf IN, hot ~ a~ff 10
can be of English origin, and very many
French people never did believe that Worth
was other than an excellent business man,
a successful "poseur," whose life was the
real presiding genius of her art of dress,
with any number of clever people under
her.
Certain it is that into certain parts Of
his immense establishment no customer,
however favored. was ever permitted to
penetrate. Just who and what were hidden
within these inner shrines of the Goddess
of Fashion no one could positively say.
Emma Abbott was the only one besides
his immediate employees who ever pene-
trated into the holy of HOLES of his work
shop. She once gave the writer her expert
ence, and this is the way of it:
Feeling convinced that should she send
in her card with her professional name
she would receive more prompt attention,
but her bills would likewise have addi-
tons for that same reason, she there
fore chose to send in the name of Mrs.
Eugene Wetherill." and to wait her turn
as any unknown person was obliged to
do. After even her patience was nearly
exhausted she was admitted to an audi
ence with the presiding genius. She pre-
scented a letter of her bankers stating
that the credit of the bearer was good,
and an assistant began to take down the
prima donna's orders.
As they increased in value and number
Worth began to pay more and more at
tention. One of the costumes she ordered
was a court train in length, made of
white silk completely hand embroidered
in gold-a costume which she desired for
an act in 'Lucrezia Borgia." When she
stated the time at which she wished her
orders delivered, both Worth and the as
sistant raised their hands in protest 1T
would be impossible to have the robe made
of gold embroidered silk by that date;
there were not enough expert artists in
Paris to cover an immense train and
corsage with the gold butterflies and
flowers madame desired"
The prima donna called again, with the
same result 1t could not be brought her
for inspection, as ii was stretched on a
frame, and Emma Abbott boldly asked
Worth to allow her to so back to the
workroom and see her dress in the hands
of the ambrO1dererS. Inc man nllillnef
gave a gasp, but there was something so
persuasive in her audacity that he gave
her in charge of an assistant, and she
was hurried through the various rooms
till she came to the one in which the en-
broiderers were at work on the gorgeous
train of the costume for her representa-
ton of the wicked Borgia.
Then Emma Abbott gave even greater
proof of her powers of persuasion-she
actually induced those embroiderers to
work overhours and even at night, and the
gold embroidered dress for the court of
Lucrezia Borgia came over to America
with her in the top of one Of her trunks.
The writer has examined many gorgeous
stage costumes, but never one which
in rich material, in beautiful artistic ef-
fects, in daintiness and completeness Of
detail could approach that magnifcinet
white and gold embroidered dress WI ,ch
Emma Abbott was lucky enough to see
in course of fash!oning in Worth's work.
room.
Genevieve Ward was another favorite of
Worth, and from her the writer learned
that Worth detested the corset and alb
hored whalebones. The actress has never
worn even a whalebone.