The Penn's Grove record., 1895-09-20
CHEESE MAKING.
dow THIS FOOD PRODUCT u
MADE ABROAD.
Processes by which the Foreign Ar
ticIe Gets the Quality Gourmets
Relish so Much - Roquefort
Cheese Ripened In Caves.

shire and the celebrated Stiltol
cheese, says the New York World
are made by processes which ar
comparatively we'll known. In o great
measure their quality depends upo.
the cars With which they are aged
Among Lu pean cheeses. which with
in q couple OF decades in this couatr'
have superseded those Of England i.
popularity, there is q certain mystef]
in the processes by which they arr
manufactured. In the soft cheeseI
the product of the New Jersey farm
may really be sid to fairly compet'
with those of Europe. But these imi
tations have their restrictions. Fol
instance, these worthy imitators OF
delicacy so popular have either vainly
or not at all atten ted to %reproduct
the famous Roquefort.
This cheese is probably one of tn,
oldest known. 1t is certainly oAs O.
the Oldest mentioned in any w Sten
book. Pliny mentions it in one ofhl
works, and Rabelais when he wrote
the phrase that has since become SC
commonplace, ''that the moon is made
of green cheese" is more likely to
have had in mind the green-streaked
Roquefort than the green sage cheese
of England of the time ofShakespeare.
The making OF Roquefort cheese Ii
something of q romance. The village
from which it takes its name is stu
sted in y deep, narrow gorge, with
| high, precipitous walls of limestone
rock. This cheese is made from the
milk of the black goat, which has q
fertile pasturage of ten or twelve
leagues in the valley below.
This milk is heated almost to boiling
and set aside. In the morning it il
| SKINNED, heated to ninety-eight de-
grees and mingled with the mornings
milk for cosgulation. When the curd
has been divided with a clean wooden
paddle and the whey drawn off it is
we'll kneeded by the hands Of the
pretty mountain maidens and pressed
in layers into moulds with perforated
bottoms. Usually a thin layer Of
mouldy bread is placed between the
layers Of curd, the object being to
hasten the ripening by supplying the
green mould peculiar to this cheese.
This bread is always made the week
before Christmas, Of equal parts OF
summer and winter barley, with con
siderable sour dough and a little vine
gar. The mouldiness which this pro-
duces is not sufficiently apparent for
the taste of the hi~gh-classed connois-
sieur, unless the cheese is kept for
three months and it's action hastened
by warmth. When it strikes the
peasant that it is mouldy enough the
cheese is ground, sifted, moistened
with water and kept from contact with
the air.
In the caves and assures in the wall
If the town, and in vaults rudely con-
structed in these assures, the ripen-
ing of the Roquefort cheese is carried
on by the cold currents of air which
whistle through them all the year
round. Those vaults which have cur
rents flowing from south to north are
believed to yield the best cheese.
The proprietor of these caves keeps
the cheeses sometimes for several
years. The cheeses when brought in
are classified according to their merit.
Salt is sprinkled over them, and they
are piled one on another for two or
three days. Then they are taken
down, the accumulated salt carefully
rubbed in and then they are piled up
again and left for a week. They are
scrsped and pared, pricked through
and through with needles driven by
machinery in order to accelerate the
gathering of the green mould in the
interior, and after this are left in
piles again for fifteen days, till they
become dry and firm in texture and
their interiors begin to be covered
with mould.
Another foreign cheese which is ,
iavorite here is the small, round
Dutch cheese known as the Edam. 1t
is called after a small and hourishing
town of that name, located not far
from Amsterdam. It looks very
much like a small red cannon ball, and
there is q story that when, during the
siege of one of the cities of Holland,
the real cannon balls gave out, these
,heeses were used to supply the guns.
Another favorite, which is found in
,very French restaurant in this city,
but is not nearly SO well known as it
deserves to be in American restau-
rants, is the Gruyere. This takes its
name from Switzerland, where it is
supposed to have originated, but as q
matter of fact it is now made largely
in Germany, in France and in New
Jersey. What is called the real
Gruyere is mostly made in little huts-
sometimes called c~halets-high up in
the Alps at the time of the year when
the pastures on the mountain sides are
accessible and these little huts inhab-
table.
The milk is put into q great kettle
and swung over a gentle fire, where
it obtains q temperature Of seventy
seven degrees. Then the Gennet is
added; when the coagulation has ad-
vanced far enough the curd is cut in
to very fine pieces. Then it is rubbed
and sifted through the fingers into the
Kettle again, and submitted to a tenn
perature of ninety degrees. tits then
strained from the whey and collected
in a cloth. Salt is rubbed in carefully
from time to time on the outside.
One of the stories told of the com
moner Swiss cheeses of this kind ii
that of a tourist not well supplied
with cash, who was walking through
the Alps. He called at an inn and de
manded q cheese sandwich and a glass
of milk. What he obtained in re
Spouse 20 his order WAS wi slices o
buttered bread and a glass of milk.
"But where is the cheeseP" he sal,
to the waiter.
"Well, I don't know" replied tn
Swiss, Struggling his shoulders, Shut
you see, sir, our cheese was remark
ably fine this year and full of larg