The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-12-29
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.

THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
New York, Dec. 2S.-In the matter of
dress it must be a great satisfaction to be
a man. There is so much comfort in the
thought that one can go to ones tailor
with a check. or the promise of one
which is just as good If it hasn't been
given too cften-and there confide in a
man of unbiased judgment who knows the
correct thing to wear and gives it to you.
Then after you have got it you can pos
sess your soul in peace for several months
knowing that if you were correctly
dressed at the commencement of the sea-
son you viii remain so until your suit be-
gins to look shabby.
What a contrast is this calm serenity
Of mind to the, turmoil and doubt which
racks a womans brain from the hour
she begins to "shop" for her new gown
until it is worn out! She wants to be
the first to bring OUT a new fashion;
then if nobody follows her lead she is
harassed with doubts for fear she has
introduced a style that nobody admires
and has made herself appear eccentric.
On the other hand, if too many adopt it,
she grows tired of it because it has be-
come common
Here we are. for instance, with a col
lection of round waists made of various
materials and for various occasions. At
the beginning of the season this was en-
tirely correct. There were threats of
| something different, but there wasn't
nything very definite about them, and
most of us had our waists made round,
because they are comfortable and con-
venient and we liked them.
French women. however, for some I'M
accountable reason, seem to have a pref
udice against the dividing line between
bodice and skirt, and they take every
! opportunity to dispense with the "string
around the waist" and make an unbrO-
ken line from bust to hip-the line which
| is considered by artists to be one of the
| most beautiful in the human figure.
| French modiSteS therefore, exert all their
| influence to being in the close-fitting jack
| at, to take the place of the full round
| waist. They have succeeded in estab-
| fishing the princess dress, which is a step
in the same direction, and by the time
| spring rolls around we shall be making
our dresses with basques and jackets
| which will prepare us nicely for the inev>
table jacketed duck suit of the summer
But that is long way off, and though
! the big shops are beginning to exhibit
their spring and summer goods we have
no idea of starting our summer outfit
just yet. At present we are about to
plunge into the sea of amusements and
new gowns which we abandoned when
Weo began to get ready for the holidays.
There are numerous theater waists and
ball dresses to be made for the places
to which they are worn. Nearly all the
new waists have some sort or Jacket
'front.' of either the military cut with
sharp points at the waist or the now
popular Louis XVI style.
A Jacket of silk brocade with stiff fronts
that stand straight out like doors when
not buttoned, is the newest thing for
theater waist. There are two or three
large fancy buttons of the miniature type
on one side, with buttonholes to CORE
spond upon the other. Underneath is a
lace or null front, which does not stop at
the waist but hangs several inches below.
This lace front does not bag, blouse-fash-
ion, as was formerly the correct thing,
but fits the figure and is not very fun.
The back is slightly. rippled over, the
faintest suggestion of a hustle.
The hustle is biding it's time, but is get
ting ready for the summer Jacket. 1t
consists now of three pleats of crinoline,
starting at the back of the belt and haring
to the bottom of the skirt. 1t is more
like a hoop skirt than hustle, and gives
a very desirable flare to the dress skirt
1t is very useful, as it can be used under
any skirt and removes the necessity Of
using more than few inches of crinoline
or hair cloth in ones dress skirts.
Another mooted question, and one that
is likely to remain mooted for an Indefinite
period. is the. sleeve; There f no use use
sees pictures of small sleeves very al
luringly gotten up, with lace founces and
bow and they look very pretty on paper,
but the strange thing about it is that one
never sees them on a real woman. Real
women wear the biggest kind of big
sleeves A beautiful white chiffon sleeve
that was heaped and banked upon itself
until it looked like a great cumulus cloud
graced fashionable arm that will hold
sway over the social realm this winter,
and rule out all approach to a small sleeve.
A sleeve that it a great favorite just
now is little more than bag gathered
he ehp below ha oil
1t ends in ffounce of lace or band of
velvet.
below the shoulder is preferred by those
who have prettily rounded shoulders such
as our grandmothers and great aunts In
those old daguerrotypes seemed to be so
fond of displaying They are used with
both evening and day gowns. With even
ing dresses they need no more than the
glimpse of the arm where it is prettiest
and a tiny shoulder strap of flowers or
iewelled trimming to complete their love-
illness. Those sleeves have been with us
a long time-longer than would have been
possible half decade ago. and all he
cause gymnastics are increasing in popn-
larity and collar bones have acquired
A pretty evening waist with n sleeve
that comes very near to being what is
prophesied for 1t, saves itself by swellins
at the elbow where it is draped with sofi
silk that is prettily knotted with a hit ~
velvet. The upper part of the bodice is
made OF jewelled material that merges
into the upper sleeves without any visit
bio seam.
A plain sleeve with two pleated eounces
reaching TO the elbow is anothe stvIa thaf
is suggested for the arm Of 'a6-which bv
the way, Is not the masculine Dugiiistg
one, but the prettily rounded well devei
oped, alluring arm OF femininhv which
the most 0hdurate OF the male sew viii
ma u nara 70 resist ln the campaign that
y 70 be The last opportunity OF Tie cent.
mry for unhidden splnsters
Look well 10 your arm, gfflsi Glrd them
up ana prepare TOT the fray. and N there
81 anything iu sleeves We shall knoa, hi I
~ The styles that prevail at Tho rnd ~
she year. Tor sleeve that Is sufeaaef,ti /
90 such a contest Is worthy ~ Donfiiarifg /