The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1895-03-28


VISITED GRIM OLD GLIB.
AS soon as we could we landed, and
We're, of course. all curiosity as we
walked and rode about taking in the
sights, of the cosmopolitan town. Red
there, great runs frowned out on the
sea, ships of war lay at anchor in the
hsrbor., and over all frowned the great
We were admitted long enough to allow
us to walk through perhaps a mile and
a half of the galleries with which 1t
is honeycombed.
And every here and there we came to
a casemate from which the cold lips
Of a gun grinned out defiance to Spain.
across the neutral ground fronting an
equal number of red coated soldiers.
Across his strip of neutral GROUND we
town of Sonia. where we were I'm
mediately struck with the squalor of its
people. their children swarrned about
their blind and halt solicited aims.
TO me the place and its people were
most repulsive; but we walked on through
theatre-shaped building whose walls we
could see at it's farther extremity. No
lighting is going on al present, July and
tive Spansard betakes himself to this
particular form Of diabolieal best.ality.
WHAT TEE BULL RING Is LIKE.
We entered the building and found 1t
to be a circular structure of brick, open
to the sky, having the arena in the cen
ire and the seats rising tier on ter
around it to the top of the walls. Fer
Seventy-1ve cents the poverty-stricken
sons and daughters of Andalusia can see
enough fighting to last a semi-civilized
and half decent sort of a man, a life
time. When we were there the arena
was covered with a beautiful carpet of
white da.ses. but that the earth there
is not always of that color is evident
from the fact that an infurated bull killed
three horses within nve minutes. AS l
stood there and thought Of the John 4
Sullivan and James J.. Corbett spirit
which prompted the spectators to urg
on the actors in their so-cailed sport,sI
was just a little gr.eved that the animal
hadn't got among the occupants of the
orchestra circle and tried the points of
his horns on their unregenerate eorporos-
tiles.
Bull lighting is one of the many vices
of the Spaniard. We saw the ring built
for the sport. in Malaga and also in
Granada. and I suppose that every town
of any importance in the kingdom has
SIGHTS IN MALAGA.
Malaga is a town of some $4,000 people,
house, fine hotels, and with well paved
and clean kept streets. But 1t is not all
of the modern type as We soon found
and the things in 1t which are spoken of
as curiosities. Crowds of children
swar1ned about US, begging for pennies
and neither threats nor solicitations
could drive them away. Up to the top
of Gibolforo the old Moorish fortress of
the town, they followed US, and down
haunts when we gave to the leading spir-
Its In the crowd their quota Of copper.
LACK OF APPRECIATION.
The Cathedral there is quite old. AS
we entered it we were greeted with the
monotonous chant of the priests at even
ing prayer. 1t may have been my fault.
but 1 must say that l did not appreciate
their efforts very much and was more
concerned in watching four or five holy
fathers of the church who were with US,
and noting the way they regarded the
performance than l was with the Spanish
gentlemen of the church, who were try.
Ing to appear solicitous for the peace Of
the way, were Irish, and from Penn.
didn' seem to be any more impressed
than were we heretics. In fact We all
stood about and looked on much, fear,
as people used to 'sgawk' at the tricks
GOOD THING TO ADOPT HERE.
among others the Bishops seat, q slid
ing one, by the way, SO arranged that
when the reverend gentleman became
the seat on which he rested his body
standing, falls down and brings. him
thereby out of his stupor. He probably
is t cRI aF1glhhssG Fl RHO Msi ok GRA e pSs.
From Malaga we went on to Granada;
a city Of some 1000 people. some lls
through. what was to me, the most
interesting part of the country. Orange
groves heavily, loaded with yellow fruit,
mond trees, wheat fields and THOUSANDS
of acres of sugar beet, We're to be seen
as we crawled along. l say acraWie ,l,
us some six or seven hours to make
the run; but the scenery was OF SO
varied a kind that l did not regret that
mountain scenery that I have ever seen
is to be found along the line of this
slow going Spanish railroad.
Arriving at Granada we were met at
the station ~, a legion Of hack drivers
to the A PnnR aoRsEF1EsH.
Into one of their crazy e~quipages
seven of us climbed, DR.. Brett and I on
the front seat, within e easy yod rsaening d lis
team l saw that it was q sorry one.
One mile and two poor horses-a trinity
Of poverty; misery and eanness w nc
and sufficient evidence that the oat and
corn crop had been this past year a
total failure in the lang r 81 An danhtaS
ace on the hill; but something was soon
brought into account on which I had
y THERE ARE OTHERS, TOO.
Americans haye the reputation un-
I hapRnyHi mpli city in T0i the efHcaey Of slim
ulants, and that the Spaniard holds to a
like creed was soon evidenced. AS the
driver, armed with a long-lashed whip,
mounted one side of the box and a small
boy with a club in his hand got up with
in easy striking distance of the mule,
and then with a whoop and a liberal
bestowal of blows we started off on the
dead run through the mud and rain
SAME SORT HERE. MR.. WICK.
Now the Spaniard may be Lazy, may
have about him an air somewhat 1anguid
but, when he gets within reach of q
poor brute he is all animation. My Jehu
was no exception, and the way he dashed
and shattered" hat unequally yoked
together tandum team sorely Nexed my
neighbor's soul. until, unable to stand it
any longer, / gave him a thump on the
back, and by sundry gesticulations and
shakes of the head gave him to under
stand that we were not In such a hurry
to get to Alhambra as he seemed to inn
agine.
A WISE RESOLUTION.
But the effect of my admonitions was
of short duration, however, and soon he
was trying to pass everything on the
his enterprise, he soon swept us up past
the crowd hanging about the Court of
Justice and left us to "Oh n OH over
the things to be seen in that place of
enchantment. I'll not try to describe
them. Editions of Irving's Alhambra
can be picked up at a small figure, and
would respectfully refer you to him
we slid down. to Malaga again and
climbed aboard ship a little while before
day lay down to rest After q days and
two nights sail we dropped anchor in
the Harbor of Algiers. l got on deck
In time to take a thought or two of
deeds of gallant arms performed by the
Young Lieutenant who showed the Moor