The San Francisco call., 1895-11-05

OF pearls. The broad brimmed hats are
the more picturesque, inasmuch as they
are made Of deep rich shade of royal
blue velvet, trimmed with ciel blue. The
six ostrich plumes fastened at one side are
ciel blue in color, as are the large coquilles
of satin ribbon which fill IN the back of
the caught brim, also the twist and
roseatte of soft chiffon which encircle the
crown.
The chief beauty of the wedding gown
is the exquisite point-lace f1ouncing which
covers the entire front of both skirt and
bodice. The lace which will adorn the
brides veil is an exquisite point d'Angle-
terre, and Miss Vanderbilt will be of the
third generation to wear it. This lace was
first worn when bride by her maternal
grandmother, Mrs. Murray Smith, who was
Miss Desha of Mobile, Ala, member of a
distinguished French family. Mrs. Van
derbilt also wore the lace at the time of her
wedding, and the beautiful founce which
has been attached to the wedding gown is
as near reproduction of the lace as could
be manufactured in the most famous house
in Brussels, where it was found impossible
to copy the pattern exactly, as the art
which fashioned the old piece is lost to
this world. So skillfully is this lace ad-
justed to the gown, despite the fact that the
fiounce crosses the skirt horizontally four
times. trims the front of the corsage and
falls in triple reverse over the shoulder,
that it has not been cut. Peeping from
underneath the lowest f1ounces is a narrow
border of orange blossoms.
The court train, five yards in length. is
marvel of exquisite embroidery all about
the edge, extending up both sides to the
shoulder. The finest seed pearls, mingled
with others of various sizes, are used to
form small rose leaves, and these are grow
ing apparently from threadlike vine OF
silver, tied at three-inch intervals in
true-lover's knot a long spray of orange
blossoms which trails over one side of the
skirt and the smaller one of the same
flowers fastened on the front of the cor
sage are beautifully fine.
A feature of the wedding will be the
music in the church. At fifteen minutes
past 10 DR.. Morgan, the church organist,
will commence the programme with an
hours selections, accompanied by the
church quartet, the full chorus and regu-
lar harpist. This will last an hour, to be
taken up by the New York Symphony
Orchestra, led by Walter Damrosch.
The wedding breakfast will be served at
the residence of Mrs. William Kissam Van
derbilt, the mother of the bride, at "a East
Seventy-second street, corner of Madison
avenue. The Duke and the Duchess will
leave after the breakfast at once for the
Vanderbilt country place, Idle Hour, Oak
dale, Long Island. They will travel in
private car by special of the Long
Island Railroad.
Though the date is not announced yet,
the newly welded couple will leave for
Europe but with little delay. They will
spend the winter in Egypt and Italy.
As for wedding gifts they beft fully the
expectations of even leading American
young lady millionaire. They are simply
marvellous in their splendor and value.
They are more than ducal-they are i'm
perial. Among the more striking the fol-
lowing offerings stand out resplendent:
Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt has given her
daughter her entire marvellous set of
pearls, consisting of one very long string
which it would not be an exaggeration to
say is quite yard in length. The pearls
are beautiful and evenly matched and are
said to have belonged once to the Empress
Catherine of Russia. Any empress of to-
day would be glad to own them. Each
pearl must be half an inch in diameter.
There is besides collar of pearls con-
siderably larger than those composing the
long string, each pearl alternating with
solitaire diamond. Still another necklace
of pearls and diamonds in antique gold
and enamel setting is gift of Miss Van
derbilts aunt, Miss Armide Smith.
W. K. Vanderbilt Jr.'s present to his SIS
ter is superb moon, solidlY set with good
sized diamonds.
From her brother Harold there is
circlet OF diamonds, to which is attached
a slender crescent of the same beautiful
gems, which, though intended for the
head, can be worn for a corsage ornament.
Other additions to the future Duchess
jewel-box are beautiful square-cut emer-
aid, set in ring with diamond on either
side, from Mrs. w. X. Vanderbilt; a tur-
quoise and diamond marquise ring from
Miss katherine Duer; a blue enamel
watch, set with diamonds and pendant to
true-lover's knot, from Mr.. 1vor Guest;
pendant heart, incrusted with diamonds,
from Miss May Goelet; unique pearl
brooch, the irregular-shaped pearl suggest
ing TO the artist the body of swan, the
neck and wings being carried out in dia-
monds, from Mrs. Richard NJ Hunt;
ring set with superb square-set sapphire
and two diamonds, from Perry Belmont,
and a pair of sidecombs, set with small
pearls, from Miss Daisy Post. One of the
Dukes gifts is "a girdle of gold set with
diamonds.
Mrs. William Astor's gift is purse of
golden mesh, the fastening being circular
in shape and set with turquoise and dia-
monds. R. I. Wilson Jr. has sent an ex-
quisite vinaigrette OF engraved crystal, the
stopper set with large aquamarine, sur
rounded with small diamonds. Mrs. R. T.
Wilson'S gift is pair OF solid gold vases
about six inches in height.
There are many beautiful fans, all from
intimate friends, each one worthy of q
place In collection. Miss Morton, who is
to be one of Miss Vanderbilt's bridesmaids,
sent fine old Spanish fan; Mrs. John H.
Davis, tiny one of First Empire style, OF
white MORE set with design in silver
spangles and medallion portrait heads Mr.
and Mrs. William A. Duer more modern
one, of exquisite point lace and pearl