The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-10-13
"PICTURE HATS" LEAD.
SOME OTHER FAVORITES--THE TAN
O'sHANIER.
Many Buttons TO be the Correct Thing
Gowns for tho Debutsntes--The
Knickerbooker.
Copyright. 1895. for The Times)

The hat FOR autumn ~ a stiiy.
Those picture hats" OF quaint devices
are well in the lead no doubt, picture
hats in gray with big black hobs OF curly
ostrich tips tumDling forward from the
back Of the crown rs II in haste to ar
rive somewhere: picture hats in black
with silver flagree and plumes in white
or black or both. picture hats tremUlous
with lace. vibrant with cocAades, glitter
ing with jet and steel picture hats with
huge bows Of watered silk or sheening
satin-of all these the ostrich plumes and
tips ale the usual and typical adorn-
ment.
But there are others. The Tam O'Shan-
ter is a high fayorite 10 wear with shoot
ing goWns-Of which one woman in "a mil
lion or so may feel the need-and the
Tam or Alpine shapes are seen most
often upon the bicycle. In either case
one notes that the left side is turned up
with Il couple Of bright quilts, or with an
npRsht bow of black velvet held with
Jet clasp
There are toQues Of Jet and there are
'butterny boanets," with wings In
rested flight OF ribbon such as were so
familiar Ia the recent past. Illustrating
how fashion Ike conveyancers' de-
scriptIons. return TO the point or place
Of beginning"
pie crowned, or hour-glass crowned. OF
slee-fester not TO mention other less 70
etc opithets. of these however. one sees
moro within than without the shop WIN
dows. though they may grow In favor.
One looks upon the velvet bow upon
Tam as rather an oddity at nrst, but
II liz a velvet season.
Velvet and ostrich tips and plumages
20 together with certain richness
of ieaect approved by centuries Nor
are the color possibilities restricted to
black and white. \ magnificent hat of
royal blue velvet with huge and many
oIack plumes above it's low crown Is one
daring but successful color scheme; and
yellows and browns end straw colorS
open 10 view a wide range of chromaue
possibilities.
have seen a combination OF black
rlumts with p,tal-pink brocades, with
Flowers Ia White and green another.
blink with black plumes and the dlh-
mond-and-peari buckle that goes every
where.
one plumeless pic.uIe hat. wooed from
its maiden home in miiii1crJ handbook
by a golden sutton, is in bottle green felt
and black yelvc with a wrdcth of black
pet1lled roses - ruche or black velvet
al the br!m's edge, and a huge bow OF
green satin ribbon fairly rvalling the
wilth of the brlm itself a pretty face
justiiles striking headsear.
There is considerable call for white
hats. particularly in the Alpine and other
soft felt shapes.
'1f buttons are good. doubtless two
rows down the bodice front are better
than one" reE soncd the designer OF
walking eown-apple- green, hecked ir-
regularly with much darker TINT
whereof the front comes marching with
SIS files Of buttons, two abreast, quite to
the edge of the full. jaunty basque. This
gown J saw IN a brides trou: seau. the
workmanship was perfect The skirt
might almost he called pain, Uit Is
marked with wide double sesms-the et-
fest can be produced equally well with
f;traDpings of the same cloth sewcd-
lcrossed-near the hem. These straps en-
circle the cuffs and edge the double epau-
let's. Any woman is well dressed who
wears that gown.
Every autumn the debutantesl
This year. is il fancy? or are they
more numerous. because times are inn
proving? Last year many Rlrl was
kept at school, ''just year longer dear.
because money is so scarce
Al any rate. dinner and dancing gowns
for young girls are everywhere on the
miil.ner's draughtlng boards. Two young
'Danas VINO WIN hunt in couples, the one
dark. tho other light VIII appear next
Thursday for the first time She Of the
darker locks, tall and slender, will don
with quicker beating heart rather loose
blouse In white crepe. skirt and bodice
the same. Running along the under side
Of The sleeve, outlining the neck opening
aud In a Geneva band at the throat are
two-inch stripes OF shaped lace. dust
colored and delicate. The skirt is very
should have liked 10 see a touch OF
red abou; II, and can only hope that the
bonny dcbutante VIII wear a. red. red
rose or two customary or not
The smaller blonde witcn, with per-
Heqt mass of sunny curls failing all
about her face, will have n bloI,c o.
palest blue. lined twico upon the sleeve
and four times down the bodice front
with white embroidery; and the white
bands gather al the throat into a square
Yoke. and at the elbows are odd narrow
white bands With queer faiishapej 6rted
ends which stick out NJ right angles.
Giather an original sleeve decoration,
one use OF green In a gen sral way is
almost discovery OF the last ten years.
Green velvet, edged with green ana gold
t4nselng and sometimes In combination
with yellow in moderation is much used
On rough black cloths
Green velvet IN two shades. very dark
ard very light, or all in ths dark. eocs
wei with black plumes and the inevita-
ble glinting buckles OF steel or paste.
Heavy green cloths. heavy i'm effect
q light IN texture. are predominant in
the out OF door ccstumss recalling ROOM
Hood and his lincoln green
Dtrx green velvet gees this year with
white or black fur in all manner of COM
tinitlons.
End combination that seemed nov
81 and daring even five yci-s ago. very
pale green SILK with pale pink silk for
evening wear Is quite rs popular as the
brown ana yellow neiehbOrS. PtstdChe
ard strawberry ice In the one case, cho-
colate and cocoanut in the other There
are colors In the cuisine well worth copy
tng.
Paris IL leading the world IN it's de-
vctiom TO the knickerbocker~is ahead
az the world. at any rate, IL one doubts
the leadership.
In the Bots one hears OF black silk
tights with short Jackets OF the bolero
type: and OF white shirts with mannish
wasstcoasts oyertopping. knickerbockers
OF all manner OF bright coiors $50 tisht
that they rip Ia the seams" and OF loose
knckerbockers whose fulness Is tak.n
up in pioats at the waist. And both n,
Paris and IN quickly responsive Nav
y rk there Is a plan for Tightening biev-
wear. and reducing the bulk abot,,
ihe waist by sewing the bloomer Ices
ana the skirt. when there II one. 10 he
same band 80 that they 20 10 together and
the wearer can never yield 20 the temna-
tion 10 get rid OF the one that's outer
most.
The bicycle skirt is always scant nm,
,its scartiness 6f appearance IL mobile
In fact by " de side pleats. And the cloth
Is always always OF the ligntest texture
compatible with nrmness. smooth sur
faces ARE preferred &c. dust catching
rough ones, and lisht .grays and cream