davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

BENJAMIN Franklin deemed II not be
Meath his philcsophic consideration.
Among the tracts attributed to him is,
"Eooped Petticoats Arraigned and Con-
,demned by the Sight Of Nature and It's
Law Of Cod
Between 1896 it again attained the
enormous dimensions Of twelve to fiji
Teen feet It's revival is attributed TO
the Empress Eugene, who resorted to
IL to conceal her hopeful condition. To
this ruse the Spectator charges its in
production into England. Its recent re
vival in this country led to the intro
duction of a bill for its suppression IN
the Albany Legislature in 1893.
The bouffant sleeve first saw the light
in the reign Of Henry II. With varying
fortune it has come TO its present wide
spread favor. Sleeves sorely perplexed
the Colonial magistrates. Men and
women were forbidden to have but one
slash or opening in each sleeve. Then
the inordinate width of sleeves was
equally perplexing, and all were order
ed to restrain themselves to sleeves half
an ell-about thirteen and half
inches. Short sleeves, whereby the
nakedness of-the arm may be discover
ed" were also Colonial grievances that
the law attempted 10 control.
II such ill-fashioned gowns came over
from London the owners were enjoined
to wear thick linen to cover the arm to
the wrist. Existing portraits show how
the law was defed. Arms were barred
with impunity.
Just and seasonable apprehension Of
naked breasts" was another occasion
for legal restraint.
The huge sleeve did not escape Cruik-
shank. The funny man Of to-day in
ridiculing the modern sleeve but re-
peats the riumphs Of his predecessors
Of all ages.
The recent attempt in New York to
legislate against the theatre hat is not
without precedent Canon law babe
woman cover her head. Never with IN
covered head has she been permitted "A
enter a temple of worship. To this
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

to suppress The Neither Hubbard. De-
signed lor tle BOULDER this comfortable
but offensive gown became in the free
and easy towns Of the West a feature
OF street wear. Even in Vassar College
they penetrated the corridors and din
ing room On Saturday and Sunday
mornings until the adverse criticism
Of visitors compelled the president to
prohibit their tresspassing beyond the
bedrooms of the fair candidates for de-
grCes. .
Dame Fashion is net progressive.
Hers is the history of repetition. In
all aces crinoliue. head dresses, sleeves,
the effeminacy Of the masculine and
the masculinity Of feminine attire has
agitated Legislators and mOralists
The earliest trace of crinoline if
found among the South Sea Islanders.
Queen Elizabeth's approval is manifest
i'm the modes OF her reign. In IVA the
use of crin0line became so extravaganza
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

oppression" So rebellious was the
spirit it evoked that Peter Stuyvesant
plainly pesceiyed that if he attempted
to push the matter further there was
danger Of them leaving off pettleoats
altogether. Like a wise man, eXpe-
rienced in the way Of women, he held
his peace and suffered them ever afJer
to wear their pettico2ts as they pleased.
Unsurpassed by the sumpnary coae
Of pagan Rome is this unrepealed la"
CT New Jersey, passed while the state
was u British colony.
All women Of whatever age, rank
I profession, Of degree. whether virgins
maids. or widows, who shall after this
act impose upon, seduce, or betray into
matrimony any of His Majestys sub
iects by virtue Of scents, cosmetics,
washes, paints, artificial teeth false
hair. or high heeled shoes, shall incur
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

PEELED men and women to VIZ.
lated number Of caps and hoo
Church was the only th.--..
marks Able Robin, that 30. r-
women had for the display r..
finery."
THE NATTER WITH HiE--.
The story Of the New Er
vine who took for his text "T
Come Down is familiar TO all f..
with Puritan lore. The bell.
lofty couture the sermon wa. -l.
listened complacentIy to the .-.-
hurled against her ungodly WANTS
TOP knot did not come down
minister did. for, eXasperateI feI
parent Obtuseness, he Leaned
pulpit he had yainly pound
vehemence, and, shaking D
coquette, cried, Hannah Lawn
mean you"
At a recent dinner party 10 r-.
the wife Of a naval officer I'm r.,
jesty's service read a letter r,-
Bishop of the Church Of Ere-.
communicating her because
ed, after three reprimands -
rector, in going to church W
bonnet.
To the unwritten law Of 60
good taste, common justice. taa A.
can women have always b.n .
ant. This was strikinsiy q.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

The wits and beaux. the poets and
philosophers Of Shakespeare and
Johnson time declare tnal woman 5
universal f0ndness Tor eXtravagant out
ward head decoration originated from
adesire to compensate for the emptiness
within. Not having lived in those days
we viii nc attempt 10 reiute the RAJ
son d'cre CT this ungallant charge.
But lives There modern Wit or sage
who would dare attribute similar mo
tives to reiuug modes? May not inc
9-tainmc1t Of equilibrium be the moIl
OF the up-to-date height and breadth OF
millinery
To stimulate the cap and hood indus
try of England sumptuary law COM
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

wearing silver lace and another for
wearing lace of a different sort Two
more came alike under the ban Of the
law, the former for appearing with tif-
fanny and the latter with a silk hood
as part of their attire. The reason OF
this severity was that they went be-
yond their pecuniary means.
The Legislature Of 1862 passed bill
directing that, owing to excess Of ap-
parel among US, unbecoming a wilder
ness condition and the professions Of
the gospel" none shall be clad above
their quality and condition, and thaC
no tailor shall maks clothes for chill
dren or servants without the knOwl-
edge of their parents or masters.
In 1915 when Salem numbered sew
enty-two dressmakers, among other
evils the Legislature commented upon
was the pride in apparel, for cOstE-
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

for all that do so are abomination unto
the Lord thy God.
Whence came the distinction in male
and female dress2 Where and by
whom was il decreed that this or that
article OF dress was the special property
of man or woman Did not the Christ
OF history wear trailing robes? What
of the priests and the Leyites? The
first creature to- cloJhe its nakedness
was woman. Was i; not in violation of
divine law that Mother Eve "sewed
fg leaves together and made them
selves aprOns?'
Unto Adam. also. and to his wife
did the Lord God make coats Of skin
and clothed them"
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

1919. when the bloomer cosr-
introduced. II was the 0utco
Woman's rights movement or 4
was the first and only distinct
can fashion. True. IT, was
with the costume long worn
yiyandieres OF the French army
remained for Mrs. Bloom
to the dignity of fashion
tiGn and Punch's reyilil
elled and lectured upon
the costume 10 meet ril..
side. The time was uc'
the spread of physicg
ever, boomers have BEEN
pedient. With slight
are now worn i'm every e.u
DR.. Mary Walker, who adopt .
ers in ineXped.ant dr.
culine garb traver.I
Chaplin, was autielpa'. G
Sands, Rosa Bonhew t.l
attire has made am imn9- cs
art; Nine. Dieulat. who
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

wit were pOwerless to Ostracise the
hiding habit, which, modified, IS with
US still
The riding habit was the forerunner
of the paletot. This greatcoat became
q common article OF women's dress. 80
gradual was the inroad OF the waistcoaC
that it prevailed before its coming was
suspected.
American law being founded on the
old English code. the carly colonlstS
were as prolific as their progenltorS III
the enactment of sumptuary statutes.
That yhey failed TO intimidate the IN
heren. love of dress the chronicles oI
the day abundantly attest.
The Blue laws Of Connecticut were
unduly solicitOus to suppress 'unSOuly
apparel" Morality nOless than economy
actuaJed their passage and enforce
meut.
Here IS a Massachusetts law OF 1914:
THE court, taking into consideration
the great, superhuous and unnecessary
expenses Cccasi0ned by some new ana
immodest fashion, Is also the ordinary
wearing Of silver. golde and silke laces,
girdles. hs- bands, etc, hath therefore
ordered that no person, either man or
woman. shall hereafter make, or buy
any apparel, ei.her wOllen, silke, or ~
nen. with any lace on it. silver golde,
slke. or thread, under The penalty OF
forfeiture of such clCth.
No man or woman shall make or
bay any slasheG clothes other than enc
slash in each sleeve or another il
The back, also cut work en-
broideled or needlewOrke caps,
bands now worn Uude~ the afore-
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

the penalty OF the law now in force
against witchcralt and like misdemean-
ors
".
Curious and absurd as these laws
may now appear, they are not without
q counterpart in the digest Of our mod
ern statutes.
Less than ten years ago in the State
Of. Kansas and many Western towns
laws were net only passed. but enforced
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

said penalty: also all golde or silver
grdles. hat bands, belts, ruds, beaver
haas are prohibited TO be worn. Men
and women sAall have liberty to wear
out such APPAREL as they are now pre-
vided Of Except the inmoderate great
sleeves. slashed apparel, immolargte
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

fill a volume. The rage for distended
skirts reached its climax in the reign OF
George ", when it was abolished by
royal command. Il has passed through
as many vicissitudes lin the United
States IS in the Old world.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

Sparta was the first country to pass
sumpUary laws affecting dress. Like
,lo Roman statute. it's first restrictions
Ial ON woman. Roman law did not
aoruita oman to wear more than hala
au ounce OF gold. q dress OF more than
one color or toridd i'm carriage. HAD
tho bicycle been an inspiration Of the
Caesars IL would doubtless have been
included in The legal don ITS.
AS late as 11SS women were not al
lowed ,o wear blue, gray or scarlet.
Sgel col0rs were reserved for the mas
cg ue nC0lesse. A pUOi bon2
Notwithstanding ,hat they were IRE
qHauciy sent 20 prison i'm patches of
.0rtos. dttes and sixties for wearing
clothes abovs their station, women con-
ruged 10 beieck themselves as fancy
dictated.
Suu2cuary laws were originally de-
signed TO emphasize class distinction,
To- r.nress or moderate the expenditure
of private citizens. Their iueticacy in
au .ecs attests the moral impOssibiliy
of .eg.slaO.rg into a people that which
they shall eat. drink OF wear.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14
0w these coats OF skin defined sex

How these coats OF skin defined sex
ual difference Scripture sayeth not.
Since chat fatal day, despite civil
code. rh-me or reason. the sons and
daughters of Eve have adopted or dis
cuJcj. according 10 their own sweet
wiz. yaritions OF The apron of fig
leaves and the coat of skin.
Witness the worlds sump,Uary laws
the crusade of Sav0nar0ia. the essays
OF Addison. the blue laws of Connect
cut. ,he legislative diges-s OF our states
and territories,
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

edict may be largely attributed her
caput caprices. Sumptuary law abol-
ishes the huge towers in which they
were wont to rear their hair in the
eleventh and thirteenth centuries.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

". II. Nelson. who
mess at Kiugvii.c Ao
confidence in Chau
Cholera and Diarrloa
warrants every bott..
fund the money 20 1872
not satisfied after u-i.
takes no risk in doing
remedy is a certain
eases for which 10 is
knows il.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

husband. the famous gcoloa.
explorations ia which she .-
wear a Ike dress, at his rau
Elizabeth Gardner, who, dis
boy, gained access &C. t-C..
Paris, when women We're L..
cross their thresholds
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14

HOODS PILLS cure
fousness. sick he1--c-S'
and all liver ills.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1895-07-14
.lAJ AND N0NBES DRESS.
Legislators Have Never Been Able TO
Regulate Hoops or Sleeves,

Hats or Observation-Disclosures Have
Their Way-Finery Always Won
the Victory, Even Among the
Priscillas OF the PuriJans- Curious
Laws OF To-Day.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
WHY IRVING WAS KNlSHTED.
According to an English Writer. He Die.
tated to the Government It's Duty


Scarcely had NJ Daudet, with true
Parisian provincialism, complained that
we had presumed to lay the bones of
great actors i'll Westminster abbey along
side those of members of his profession
than our reply comes in the announce
ment that henceforth the leading actor
in England shall have title like the
presidents of the academies of music
and painting. This act of justice has
not been Graciously conferred. 1t has
been resolutely demanded AL enforced
by AN artist to whose profess-Sl it means
o social charter of some value. Every
actor in the kingdom will profit by this
knighthood moro than Henry Irving,
and that is why it was a really fine
thing of him to insist on having it.
1t should be especially noted that it is
solely as actor and manager that ho has
won the position from which he has
been able to dictate to the government
its duty to his art He has rendered no
services to literature His whole career
is III that respect all almost schoolboyish
confession that he docs not know htera-
ry chalk from literary cheese. Stevenson
or Oxenfor,l, Goethe or Wills, Shake
speare or Frank Marahall-it would be
fattering him to say that they are all
one to him, for there is the strongest
evidence to suggest that he decidedly
prefers Oxenford, Wills and Marshall.
He has never written play, though
he has spoiled several Nor has he, like
Mrs. Kendall, followed the prevailing
fashion of parading the virtue of his
domestic life in order to gain fireside
appreciation. He does not NEEDLE in inn
perial politics nor discuss municipal af-
fairs except on the point strictly GER
name to his own business of munich
pal theater. He is only the acknowledge
ed chief of his profession Take that
away from him, and the name of Henry
Irving has no longer meaning. That
is why his victory over an unjust preju-
dice and snobbish tradition is so com
plete. No one can separate his distinc-
ton from his specific art, except by go
ing behind his skill as an actor to those
personal qualities by which men gain
| pre-eminence i'll all professions. Lon
| don Saturday Review
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
noLMEs, MANY GRIMES.
Half a Dozen Murders Mny be Fastened
on the Great SwfndIer

PHILADELPHIA, July 1.-THE discovery
of the dead bodies Of the two girls, Nellie
and Alice pitezel in cellar in Toronto
Canada, by Detective Geyer, of Philadel.
phia, is the all absorbing topic of CONVEX
sation in police circles. The girls are be
lieved to be the victims of IL. H. Holmes,
the insurance swindlcr now in Moyamen
sing prison awaiting sentence for swind
ling the Fidelity Mutual Insurance com.
pany out of &c., )0
Holmes, who has himself confessed that
he has committed enough crimes to hang
him half dozen times, is supposed t.
have first deliberately murdered the
Pitezel girls father and brother and then
the girls themselves.
These murders are alleged to have been
committed for the purpose Of getting the
victims money Besides the above crimes,
Holmes is supposed to have done away
with Minnie and Nsllie Williams, whose
money he admits having obtained,
swlndled several frs insurance companies
out of large amounts, and otherwise com
nittcd Expectations which will hand him
down as one Of the most notorious addi.
lions to the criminal annals of the coun.
try
This. morning District Attorney Ora
hanlsaid there was littlec chance of Holmes
being taken to Toronto to be tried for the
murder of the Pitezsl girls. He has found
evidence, he Said. which leads to the con
clusion that the body found in the CalIow
hill street house was Pitez s. and he i.
now preparing to try Holmes here ON ths
charge of numbering Pittzcl
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
In an English Criminal Court.

Battered females who weep, who have
come to it through drink, who courtesy
with moldy gcntility when they get
four months; o pianist at q free and
easy in red shawl, who, merely to
oblige friend, sold stolen watch; a
shy servant girl in q broad straw hat,
for breaking and entering her late mas
ter's house and carrying off clocks and
clothes; decent postmistress in black,
with comfortable, cooklike air, who,
trade being bad at her little shop, had
been abstract.ng coin from the letters
intrusted to her. Counsel delivers a
fiowery debating society harangue on
her behalf, by which he makes it clear
that the real criminals are the public
for putting temptation i'll thewav of re-
spectacle officials by sending registered
letters. Ii there were no registered let
tiers, there would be no thieves
Counsel gives me tho impression Of
thinking good deal more of the selec-
ton of his phrases and the rounding Of
his periods than of his client, who, when
at last he sits down, gets ~ months for
his pains. Succeeded by a sturdy rogue,
who, being benightcd, broke into a
church and drank the sacramental wine
(any port in a stormy, and, not content
with that, made himself up bed in
the vestry ON the crisp and immaculate
surplices. Inpudent fellowl Eighteen
months. And yet sacrilege seems a
heavy gun to bring to bear upon man
just for procuring himself night s
lodging. -Conhill Magazine.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
FATAL FIRE IN CINCINNATI
Two Firemen Dead and Eighteen Others
Painfully Issurcd.

CINCINNATI, July lS.-Lase yesterday
afternoon an alarm was turned in from
box ID. A bic fire had started in the five
story hay and feed warehouse of J. II.
Hermesch & Co., at Water and Walnut
streets. 1t spread SO as to threaten the
entire square bounded by Walnut, Water,
Vine and Front streets, and u general
alarm soon called out the entire depart
ment The square today is almost all in
ashes, and the flames at times came very
near reaching buildings across the streets.
Besides the loss of property. two frcmen
are dead and eighteen injured.
1t is believed the fire originated from q
match or cigar stump thrown eareless.y
near the hay. The warehouse went up like
an explosion. Then the fire spread to
Nelson. Morris & Co. Is large stables, but
their large warehouse stood fire proof.
The adjoining commission and tobacco
company warehouse, however, went like
piles of kindling. George o. Brown had
5000 bags OF peanuts In his commission
house. They burned like oil, and soon
wiped out the building and stock, taking
with it the large six story tobacco ware
house of L. Seaman s. Co., which was
full of leaf tobacco
Suddenly the Front street walls OF these
warehouses fell burying the firemen be-
meath them, and killing two. The dead
nrc: Captain Michael W. Hcaley, fire
company No. 90; Thomas w. Wisbey,
pipeman, company No s. Lieutenant L.
B. Newman, of company No 20, Is dam
gerously injured, while eighteen others
were painfully hurt
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
sim There Is Nothing New.

The modern Solomon can probably ex-
claim with as much truth as did the
builder Of the temple that there is
nothing new under the sun " We are led
to make this remark after finishing a
chapter in Arthur Young's Travels In
France, which contains an extract,
published first ON Oct. lG, 1887, and
which is given below III full:
M Lemond is most ingenious me-
chanic who recently made most re-
markable discovery in electricity. You
write two or three words ON paper. Re
takes it with him into a room and turns
machine inclosed in cylinder case.
At the top of this machine there Is an
electrometer and small pith ball.
There is wire connecting this machine
with one in a distant apartment, at
which his wife is seated By noting the
motions of the ball on the machine be-
fore her the lady is able to write down
the words ON paper which she has never
seen. From this it appears to me that he
has formed an alphabet Of motions As
the form of the wire makes no difference
in the effect as long as it is charged with
electricity, correspondence may be car
ried ON at any distance, within or with
out fortified town, for instance, or for
purposes much more worthy =
Who says the telegraph is new
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20

search was made by the two officers A
photograph of Holmes was shown to
Frank n. Nudel, of the educational de-
partment owner of No. 16, and without
any hesitation he identified it as that Of
his tenant. When they reached the cellar
it appeared to the detectives that some
thing had disturbed the cellar floor. Al
short distance below the surface they
came across the arm and Il portion Of the
head of one of the little murdered girls.
Further work soon revealed the entire
body, not only of the first but of her sis
ter. Both bodies were naked and uncof-
fined and had lain there in all probability
since last October
There were no traces of violence on the
bodies, and it is thought that Holmes de-
coyed the children into trunk under
some pretext and took them to the house.
Then gas was inserted by means of a tube
through small hole.
As the crime was evidently committed
in this country it will be necessary to ex-
tradite Holmes and put him on trial for
murder here.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20

The great tower at Wembley park 81
again in active progrem and i rapidly
approaching tho completion Of the FIRST
stage, which consists 81 the constructions
Of a vast platform 1870 or 200 feet from
the ground. The gigantic framework
upon which this platform is to be laid
has long been q conspicuous objet On
the top Of the hin in Wembley park.
The cross girdcrs are new to bo 20, lntq
position and the concrete floor formed.
This floor viii be Of enormous area, ~
may be gathered from the fact th.if 81 the
center q it Is 10 be large hall. with
floor space Of 1000 square feet. a
broad promenade running all around IL.
The original design contemplated also
the building Of ahDtel on this platform,
with 80 bedrooms Whether thighs like
ly TO be carried ont nj present we are
not informed. There are 10 be four liffa
to this first stage and two staircases.
One Of the staircaseS is sufficiently al
vanced to permit Of the ascent being
made by il. aud the lift guides have just
been got into position The completes
tower-if 1t ever is eompletcd--is &c
run up six times as high a. this fitcr.
on fhereabort. But only sufficient capt.
tai has been raised for this first portion.
and what will be done after this re-
mains for the future 70 determine
About 600. 900, we understand, has
been required TO finish this first por.
ton London News.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1895-07-20
Tortured BY Masked Robbers

ASHLAND, o., July 17.-At midnight
four masked men went to the house of
John Miblin, living few miles, from this
place, and on being refused admittance
battered down the door with fence rail
They then bound and gagged Miblin and
his wife, and on failing to find the amount
of money they believed to be in the house
they tortured the couple, holding burn
ing matches TO thcir feet and hands The
robbers secured Sl3 all the money in the
house. AHblin and his wife are both very
old, and almost blind. There is no clew
to the identity of the robbers.