The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1895-11-21

tua sagely remarked, though in somewhat
different language. Fatiguing and diff
cult as is the descent, it is child's play
compared to the weary climb to the
upper regions. 1t will require at least
three hours Of the hardest work you
ever did in your life; and the chances
are that you will sit down more than
once on some projecting rock and de-
clare that you cannot 60 another single
step. The guides help all they can, the
path being often SO narrow that two per-
sons cannot walk abreast and each foot
hold must be selected with care-now haul
ing you up BY one hand, now pushing
from the rear, and occasionally stalwart
guide will hoist you to his shoulder, and
holding your knees stiffiy against his chest
while you sit as erect as possible, will
make few springs up the dizzy path
Toward the last the hammock men come
after You, and when the top is gained at
last you are fain to lie flat on the blessed
level ground for awhile and gain breath
and mental equilibrium.
In Fayal, as in other countries. the far
ther You get into the rural districts the
more distinctly novel are the scenes. You
come across wayside shlines. with flowers
piled before them, Of tiny lamp flicker
ing in a box, in memory Of somebody who
died years ago on the spot. You see COWS
tethered in the fields. each with heart
shaped amulet Of red flannel bound around
her forehead to protect her from the |
''evil eye. Stone huts have high pitched
matched roofs, with a square hole in |
the peak which serves as a window, out !
Of which q head is always shyly peering
when strangers pass. The little house
yards, fragrant with saffron and berga- /
mot, are walled and shaded, and women |
sit III the doorways with their spinning. /
The spinner holds distatf between the
left arm and side. The thread is wound |
off tile spindle on kind of ssswift'' such |
as our great grandmothers used to have.
twisted with the left hand A great deal |
ol lldA is grown III lne Azores, and takes |
the place that cotton does within us. The
men of the better class dress in suits of
suits Of snowy white linen, and the peas
ant in the coarser, unbleached sorts.
Wooden cloths are also woven, dyed
black, brown, blue and gray, resembling
coarse felting. The country house inte-
ri il aaSiix- ihaJ 81.
so little in it. 1t has but one room. the
rafters in bold relief above, and sometimes
"a woven work Of willow boughs'' par
titioning off one end for a bed room. The
loft above is reached by ladder; each
bed pile of fnlze OF straw on tie earth
Of the first floor and on the poles laid
close together of the loft. There is neither
stove nor chimney. The fireplace is mere
~ an adobe shelf built against the side
wall, and on it furze and faggots are
burned the smoke escaping as best it can
through the roof and open door. For
cooking utensils there are pots and Jars of
crude red pottery and occasionally an iron
Kettle Meat Is a rare article OF food with
tile -Azorean peasant Unleavened corn
bread baked.oyer the Goals, coarse, hard.
sour and smoky, is the Chief Of lis diet
With hit Of fish ol cheese a red pepper
and cup Of water no wonder he is
sReh q queer creature. sensitive, jealous,
saperstitieus and cowardly. But there is
;ilsp much to D. said il his favor IIe is !
temperate and Industrious, kind and help
ful t. strangers, and 50 polite that even
TIE baretooted, half-clothed donkey boys
address one another as senior.
All your stable bills ana other accounts
made out BY the natives though they
amount TO but few cents, are addr essed
to 10 lllustrlssima EXcellentissma Sen-
nora (Fhe Most Illustrious Most Excel !
lent Lady, and the naked youngsters in
the streets kiss their hands 10 you. And
now we are off for Terciera and the CAPT
tai OF the islands, FANNIE B. WARD !