Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1895-07-05
CLIMBING UP VEsUyIUs.
Do Not Forget to Make the Trip
When You GO to Naples.

No traveller should leave Naples with
out having climbed vesuvlus. We drove
from Naples to the base OF the cone. al
most at the top of the volcano. II Is a
beautiful drive after one leaves the dirty
streets Of the seaport, through which
We were attended by small boys turning
handsprings and beggars of every descrip-
ton Every now and then the carriage
would be stopped by a black-haired wo-
man in the faded blue and green which
represents poverty In picturesque Italy.
There would be a torrent OF words and
frequently "A parcel 10 be carried up the
mountain. After we left the town We
found ourselves in a lane with a few
orange trees here and there, and We were
accompanied, for "A time, by three guitars
a mandolin, man who could trill like
canary bird, hurdy-gurdy, a guide, and
a blind beggar.
The guide volunteered an enormous
amount Of information, most OF which we
knew already. He also forced upon US a
pen in-lavah." which we were obliged
10 buy in order 10 rid ourselves Of him.
After lunchlnG AT Cooks Tourist Office.
We took the car up what seemed a perpen-
dicular railway-really over Is degrees.
1t was sckening TO look down. for we
a
house. and before We were half way up
We could not see the station at the bot
tom. At last the car stopped with a jolt
and we crawled out, thankful 10 set foot
on solid earth, IL IL were made OF ashes
We followed a zigzag path up the sides
OF the cone. the guides going with us
When we reached the top We could see
the mouth OF the crater. from which
smoke rose curling into the blue sky
dust There were cracks. sulphur streak
ed at the edges, through which we could
see the red-hot lava glowing. while from
each OF these openings rose gray smoke
exceedingly distasteful TO the nostrils
Higher we went, and again We stopped
The guide took US. one at a time, In the
edge OF the crater 70 look down. When
my turn came the man seized my arm
and held II while | leaned over on
wonder, Huge sulphur-stained crags rose
on all sides-green. blue. red. orange,
black, and purple-the lining OF the great
bowl. But TO look down, Far, far down.
there seemed no end And from the cen
tire the sitting smoke rolled perpetualy
upward. There was a vast rumbling, and
the ground shook beneath US. "Ohw said
j. turning TO the guide. "Qucst-ce pas
terribley' Mails oui." he replied with
superstitlous awe on his ignorant face.
"Cest la maison du diable." IL was not
hard TO believe: I have no doubt IL
would have been my opinion IL had been
OF his creed And now, half choked by
the fumes from the crater. We turned
back to the magnificent view beneath us.
The Bay OF Naples-Capri and the shore.
lying In golden haze beneath the soft.
blue sky. II was hard to be brought back
TO the realities OF life.
'Messieurs ct Madames." the guide was
saying, In q high nasal voice. you say
you wan gee bollin' la-yah Won'ful
sight. Ten meenits since here" tAbomi-
nable lie. But we subsequently forgave
him. "Gov'ment tariff. Mus give avery
| gulda 2-francs apiece-a." We exclaimed
at the expense OF this. but finally gave
| in. Where was the way? In reply, the
| guide pointed 10 the perpendicular side OF
the crater. UP which We had come In the
| railroad II seemed an impossibllity. our
| not liking to- show the white feather, we
said: oh yes! OF course" The guides
| proifered their assistance. two TO each