New-York tribune., 1895-12-22

then narrows az the wast-line. where the two ends
and fall to the bottom OF the skirt. The
garment is decidedly "chic." This ARRANGEMENT
OF the chnchilla called a stole" by the at
tendant, but 1t is not exactly what we understood
as a stole last season-smply two straight pieces
hanging directly the shoulders. have not
this form OF trimming used as YET this winter
Another novelty Is evening wrap OF rose velvet
lined with white satin. There is a square collar
and two broad bands down the front OF the gar
ment OF sable. Under the collar is double bertha
OF white lace which narrows and disappears under
the fur al the wast-line All about the garment
is a rich trimming OF applqued white lace hsures
and colored stones. The unique feature in the gar
ment is that 1t is cloak shaped and yet has no
sleeves. Where the should be the stuff
.s draped loose folds with some of the lace en-
broiderv on the folds The absence OF sleeves
makes the garment deliciously warm. In the back
the fulness .s laid in box pleats and the fur collar
is slashed showing the lace under It. Fur chokers
are rather heavy for evening coaks. 1ney are De
coming and warm but their wearers complain that
they disarrange the hair. In this case the high
collar !s a huge loose rufe OF the rose-velve COW
cred with the embroidery OF lace figures and mock
Jewels The lining OF this garment contains three
pockets--a long narrow into which the fan
NAV be slipped: a small one for the handkerchief.
and a roorny square in the skirt for lace
head Lowering and the little toilet trihes that
Par!sians are so FOND of carrying about with them
The rage for fur trimmings is the increase and
II is impossible TO tel where Il VIII stop. fash
ionable cape OF sable Is cut in scallops about the
lower edge from every scaop hang two sable tails.
and between are the sharp it;.e heads OF the sable
mouse resting on little paws with their shiny
claws Truth to tell, Il suggests the decorations
our wild red man is so fond Of but II is very smart
The comic pages of the weekly papers are taking
up the subject and pong fun at this craze for iuT
heads tails and feet. and they may do something
toward checking the rage before ii becomes absurd
IA hle
IN skins. the fur Jacket closes in front with bears
head the skirt IS trimmed about the lower edge WIFE
roVv OF sable animals sitting smartly their tails
the neck is encircled with a Wild rabbit and DO
mestcated cat is perched on the huge chapeau
| have seen few smart dinner gowns this week
show some novel ideas. one has a skirt OF back
velvet with a round sweeping train. About the bot
tom OF the skirt Oh the front ana SIDES are pacei
huge rOsettes of cream lace with pink rose ana
diamond ornament In the centre OF each rosette.
The skirt is charming The corsage IL tiny little
fitted Jacket with very unduating skirts OF fancy
mink and white brocaded with spashes OF black
In H. The decoietage is broad that only an inch
or two OF the jacket can snow at the armnoles IN
front and the waistcOat is also very broad across
the bust This i Of white satin, covered with Ven
ice point lace. the lace being mounted smoo My
over the satin that the points edge the deco.e-
taqe The rest OF the is laid IN soft folds to
the waist line and held by broad crush sash o.
pnk ribbon Thls sash is about FIVE inches broad on
the right side aid narrows on the lett where IL
fastens with a single large rose and brilliant orna-
meut Another rose is placed the left side OF the
bust The elbow sleeves OF white satin almost
covered by a deep founce OF lace.
What we termed the bertha effect a few years
ago s very much used on evening gowns. III
is a pretty fashion and has the merit OF showing
off 10 perfection the beauty Of lace hounce. A
great many pieces OF valuable lace have been
manufactured in the bertha shape and the owners
naturally wish all their lace store this sea-
ron and are loath to cut 1t. When a clever
couturlere has some fine pieces OF lace brought to
her by a customer she designs q gown TO suit the
lace \ charming dinner frock has just been I'm
ished for French lady, who possessed an ex-
auisite bertha founce Of point d'Aencon and per-
haps dozen yards OF hve-inch lace edge OF the
same pattern.
The material chosen is n magnificent pink and
yellow brocaded silk. In the two delicate shades
that combine perfectly The skirt is cut circu-
lar in shape and to sweep out just "A trine In the
back. On each side Of the apron IL narrow
panel OF black velvet edged by lengthwse ruhies
OF the lace. These runies almost cover the mar
row panel. but the black makes exquisite back
ground for the lace pattern. At the bottom or the
panel is huge bow OF black .elVet ana PINK roses
The cOrsagc II pointed basque, with very snort
yoke OF black velvet. embroidered wi;h pink and