The herald., 1895-03-24
THE MAN WHO
Observation-Disclosures
SHOULD WEAR

Charles Frederick Wortni tne famous
Paris dressmaker, has become known
throughout the civilized world. He had
made dresses for all the contemporary
queens of Europe with the single excep-
ton of Queen Victoria, says the New York
World. In a recent interview he said:
I'VE send model dresses to all parts of
the world, but think Americans are my
best clients.
1t has generally been thought that M.
Worth was a Frenchman. AS matter OF
fact he was born in the little town OF
Bourne, in Lincolnshire, England, in
1925. His father was solicitor, who lost
a considerable fortune ii speculations.
Young Charles was first apprenticed TO
printer, but, being of delicate and artistic
nature, after seven months he forsook the
type-setting profession, and, at the age oil
10, went to Swan & Edgar's big dry goods
establishment in London to make himself
generally useful. He was treated rather
as a relative and friend than as an en-
ployee during the six years of his stay
with this firm. But, finally, having
heard much of French fashions, he de-
termined to go to Paris. On his ar
rival he was unable to get situation,
and, for time, felt the pangs of extreme
poverty. When "a years old he was taken
into the house of Gagelin & Co., flrm
noted for its silks-woven by workwomen
at their own homes. At this time no firm
in Paris sold material and made it up as
well. The combination of these branches
struck young Worth as good idea, and
he broached it to his employers. 1t was
tried to some small extent in the depart
ment of cloaks, and train designed by
Worth gained medal at costume eX-
hibition in 1855. Emboldened by this sue
cess, he applied for partnership, but
was refused. Then he determined to start
for himself. This he did in 1858. upon
the very premises still occupied by his
firm, No. Z Rue de la Paix At first he
employed fifty hands. At the time of his
death he and his two sons had some 100
employees and turned out six or seven
thousand dresses and three or four thous
and cloaks year.
Toward the end of the sixties Worth
found favor in the Imperial Court OF
France and the Empress Eugenie be-
came a great admirer of his skill. The
first dress he made for her was a walking
costume in gray taffetas, trimmed with
black velvet ribbons. the skirt and jacket
made to match-then an entirely new
idea. The Empress admired 1t extremely,
but said:
IN. Worth, should not like to be seen
in public in so novel costume. | must
wait until some one else has appeared in
Il, for l do not wish to set the fashion,
am content to follow it.
The Countess de Pocertales took the re-
iected Dress Six months later the En-
press ordered one exactly like it, and
wore it first at the Vincennes races. This
was the beginning of Worth's almost re-
gal rule in the world of fashion. Asked
as to how and when woman's dress as
sumed the artistic import now accorded
it, he replied:
AT the beginning of the reign of Napo-
leon Ill, feminine apparel began to as
sumo great Importance from an artistic
standpoint. Crinoline had just come into
use. There was craze for fancy-dress
balls, and the Empress was Il beautiful
woman. | have made costumes for many
ovely women, but the Empress was the
loveliest of ALL Even now she is hand
SOME WOIlltu, ultubuSH IhlNV lCtcHtN At
sufferer from Il protracted illness. 1t was
genuine pleasure to make dresses for
her, a woman of most graceful carriage
and of beautiful bust and shoulders. Rel
atives of the Emperor first gave balls in
honor of the Empress, who recprocated
by giving a grand affair, at which she APP
peared as Diana in u costume especially
designed for her by me. In those days it
was very difficult to introduce costumes
which are very popular now. What in
those days would be called imdelicate are
now considered quite proper.
Speaking of the origin OF styles he
lately said.
When II manufacturer invents any spe-
cial fabric or design, lie sends me a pat
tern, asking if | can use it, the fabric
nay require Il severe style Of dress or if
light and soft it is adapted for draperies
and putfings. If the material pleases me-
! order IA large quantity to be made spe-
cially for me, and design my dresses ac-
cordingly. A purchase by large firm OF
a great quantity of material influences
other firms, and that material, with the
style it is suited to, becomes the fashion.
All my models are first made in black and
white muslin, then copied in the mate
rial and coloring which | select.
One of Mr.. Worth's ideal figures to fit
with costume is said to be that of Mrs,
Brown Potter. II consider her one OF
the most beautiful women [ have ever
seen he said.
Among the most remarkable dresses
ever made by Worth was one which re-
quired 100 yards of silk. 1t was of light
glace taffetas and had three shades of
purple varying from lilac TO violet. When
completed the dress looked like an i'm
mense bouquet Of yiolets, having skirt
covered with close. fun ruchings in three
shades As to the question % the mate
rials used by Worth, he frequently sup
piled exclusive goods costing 500 u yard.
Costumes for the Empress of Russia, the
Queen of Spain the Queen of Portugal
and Miss Anna Gould are among those
lately turned out.
NJ. Worth receiving rooms are many
in number, but plainly furnished. The
floors are covered with carpet in imita-
tion of tigers skin with Il scarlet border.
Many models dressed in the latest fash
ions are at hand TO show clients the effect
produced by the ruling modes. At the
topof the house is studio where al
models are photographed.
NJ Worth had of late years been as
sisted by his two sons-Gaston, who took