The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-25

with rare lace, and touch OF that odd
rare shade of greenish velvet, of which the
The wide collar of lace extended we'll over
the sleeves, and was adorned with four of
the handsomest rhinestone buttons
have seen for long time. Indeed, Miss
Barrymore is to be congratulated on the
perfect taste exhibited in her costumes.
"Gussie'' was effective in her light gown
worn in the first act, and in the green silk
one with its vest of white-watered silk.
but Maud Adams quite won our hearts In
her quiet little frocks. We all liked the
simple brown crepon one-indeed all three
were most appropriate and becoming. OF
course we are curious to see more of the
pretty toilets which the actresses of this
excellent company have doubtless brought
with them, and | understand we shall gaze
upon several if we have the pleasure of
seeing THAT Imprudent Young Couple"
At the Columbia, Rose Coghlan as Nance
Oldfield was able to show US how well she
understood dress, even for 1730. Her first
gown of rich blue-green satin lined with a
reddish pink, opening over skirt of fawn-
colored brocaded silk, was most pictur-
esque, and she was very handsome as the
Roman queen in her snowy white draper
les and great mantle of crimson embroid-
cred with gold. The jeweled girdle worn
with it was rich.
Miss Winters looked very dainty in the
first act in simple trimmed muslin
over rose pink. and as Miss Oldtield in the
bluish-green figured overdress, with the
soft, colored skirt, she looked very we'll.
One fact generally commented on was
the absence of all stiffening in the skirts,
excepting around the bottom. How thank
fully we say farewell to crinoline, horse
hair and all their kin, for many were the
head and back aches traceable to them.
derful affairs, combining many colors and
materials. Birds, bows and flowers are
enormous.
Pressed maidenhair is much used, and
is SO well prepared that it will last, with
care, quite time. There is a new way of
arranging wings at either side of sailor
hats. They look as growing out OF tufts Of
chiffon.
Honeysuckle is now one OF the favorite
flowers, and quite quantity of crinoline
lace is used in black, spangled with jet.
This winter much chenille will be used as
a sort of embroidery, the long stitches laid
side by side, so that they form solid vel
vet-like surface. A Paris model bonnet,
or, rather. foundation, shows pointed
Golf, covered with a leaf pattern in two
tones of shot chenille, with wired leaves at
either side, like Mercurv's wings.
In Paris the couture continues to be ar
ranged so as to harmonic with the f1aring
skirts and large sleeves, and is brushed off
the face a la pompadour and regularly
waved. The wide effect behind the ears is
obtained by wearing jeweled tortoise shell
or amber combs which are five inches long
and three and half inches wide. They
are curved to fit the head, and in placing
them in the hair the teeth point toward
the ear.
While we are warned that distinct bod
ices are to be banished little jackets of vel
vet, silk or brocade will flourish for visit
ing gowns, and the latest news states that
crepons are far from questionable, they
having only beg I'm their career, and the
latest novelty will be used all winter. 1t is
only just finding its way into the great
European wholesale houses, and quote a
description of it. 1.-THE surface is like COR
rugated iron, but it is solid as far as the
indentations are concerned. The back of
the material is plain. 1t gives richness
and frmness, and it is not expensive, but
superior in its character to the thin fabric
we have been wearing all the summer
through. The stripes are often irregular,
some wide and some narrow while crimped
effects are introduced also with the stripes,
and some of the new crepons with satin
stripings recall the Algerian stuffs which
have found so much favor. Winter gowns
made in these will be handsome"
Another new crepon, the Bamboo, has
the design in color growing out, as it were,
from the black foundation. 1t is a con-
tinuous pattern, not floral. but rather
representing the effect of patches of water
split or a highly polished surface, having,
in fact, no definite form. This is especial
ly effective in green on black, in red on
black and in white on black, for black and
white will continue in favor, and this is
largely due to the fact that the Empress of
Austria having regained her health is
largely influencing fashions, being one of
the most tasteful women In Europe. A
gown worn by her after hunt q few weeks
ago is thus described in Vogue:
at was a symphony in black and white.
The Empress has always dotted on that
particular combination. The skirt and
bodice were all in one piece, princesse
fashion, and were of snowy silk grenadine
brocaded with clusters of feathery pampas
grass which somehow or other seemed
raised from the material, as is the case
with velvet damask. This long-trained
slip was severely draped over 'transpar-
ent' of black satin, which shone through
it very artistically. and was trimmed pro-
fusely with 'plisses' of black Chantilly
lace. The elbow sleeves were very moder-
ate in size and shape and the corsage was
squarely opened at the neck, revealing the
superb white throat cleaning with row
upon row of priceless black pearls, while
on the left shoulder was attached small
bouquet of white heather and Edelweiss. -
The SWEETEST yachting gowns are all of
white with dash of cream or ivory, and
trimmings of very deep coffee tints are
used.
Tailor gowns are no longer so severe as
formerly, the fronts being of surah, usually
white at present, and this winter will be
probably worn exquisite little vests of
rich stuffs. A September bride here will
have one in her trousseau.
A young Austrian countess has invented
a species OF CATERS which are made of very
pliable untanned leather and so cut that
they are slipped on like buttonless gloves.
having no fastenings of any description
save, tiny strap right at the top and q
silver buckle. The result of this novel
arrangement is that they fit wonderfully