davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

sary to wear boomers, which are, after
all, clumsy affairs besides being the
most unbecoming of garments. The
woman who looks well in bloomers has
not yet made her appearance, and for this
reason, if no other, it is doubtful if bloom
ers ever will take the place of skirts I'm
derneath the regular skirt boomers or
knickerbockers are all very we'll, and if
the skirts blow up, as skirts are apt to
do should the day be at all windy, the
effect is much better and much less like
an Amazonian march than if the woman
wear equestrian tights, though most
women prefer SO to do. Too wide skirt
is very ugly. Some of the best riders say
that three yards is the widest they should
be, and that after that every inch is SUI
perfluous The favorite pattern has the
fullness directly in the back, but the
skirt from the knee down has big sweep,
SO that the motion of the knees when
wheeling is not more apparent than nee
essary.
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

the summer, and yet that is the number
that more than one woman has declared
to be absolutely indispensable. Fortu-
nately, all these gowns do not cost as
much as did the first, which were made
at the leading tailor's during the past
winter.
In every well appointed bicycle trous-
seau there must be one handsome cloth
costume. These vary in price according
to the tailor who makes them; $3.50 is
the price asked by some, S75 and $50 by
others, and $35 or $40 is the lowest sum
possible to have costume made by any
man of note. This of course, includes
the materials, which are generally chev-
lot, whipcord or covet cloth. There is ap-
parently little difference in the cut, but
like the inch which makes all the differ
ence in mans nose, to the feminine
ideas an inch too long, too wide or too
narrow stamps the gown as absolutely
impossible. And the tailors of New
York have discovered that their fair GUS
toners demand perfection of cut and fit
quite as much as they used to do for their
riding habits. 1t does not by any means
follow that because large price is asked
| the costume is bound to give satisfaction.
There seems to be knack about cutting
them which is positive gift, which gift
is not to be found in every establishment
in the CITY,
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
TO KEEP SKIRTS DOWN.

There have been many devices for keep
ing the skirts down. Weights and such
like things have not been liked. Facing
the skirt with leather gives a pretty finish
and is supposed to hold it in place. but
does not always do so. The fayorite plan
is to have strap of elastic sewed on
either side. The exact position can only
be determined by the woman herself when
| she gets on the wheel. This strap should
| be of elastic an inch wide and must be
| fully six inches long. At the end a loop
to form a buttonhole must be added, and
this is to be fastened to the bottom of
the leggings-the second button beneath
the knee is the best one. Fastening the
skirt down in this way on either side
certainly does keep it in place and gives
a trim, neat appearance.
The proper hat to wear is of course a
consideration. Something to shield the
eyes is quite necessary. Sailor hats Or al
pine hats are the best, but light weight
straw must be chosen for every bit of
weight is to be dreaded. The TIA IN O.
Shunter hats, which were a fad for a lit
tie while during the winter, and which
also have been made up in straw, are not
useful at this time of the year. They
have become too common, also, to be
smart. Heavy wells are better to wear
than the dotted ones. Chiffon, gauze
and grenadine are to be had very sheer,
thick enough to protect the face, shield
the eyes and at the same time be becom-
ing Dotted and fancy wells are really
out of place with the severe style of the
correct bicycle get-up. T he gloves must
be worn size larger than ordinary, SO
as to allow the free use of all the muscles
Very few women wear silk or cotton
gloves, and the cheaper qualities in kid
which are always to be had, made up in
the Biarritz style are the best These
are the kind of gloves which have no but
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

tons, but simply pull over the hand
They can be bought for 75 cents a pair,
and very rarely are more than 81. The
kid is coarse, but looks well. They are
the coolest sort of gloves to wear, and
are particularly well adapted to bicy-
cling. Shoes, not boots axe the most
comfortable. 1t is said that some women
intend wearing the very coarse-looking
plaid stockings in which the men have
disported themselves lately. But as these
stockings, in spite of being loosely woven
and consequently not so warm as thew
look, are very coarse and rough, it is
doubtful if they ever become universally
popular.
The New York women have, some of
them, appeared on the Park and River
side drives in very smart costumes. Mrs.
Paul Thebaud and Miss Massey Strong
have been dressed somewhat alike, n
decidedly conspicuous . costumes-short
skirts of tartan plaid, reaching just below
| the knees, brown jackets, fancy silk
waists and Glengary caps light tan leg
| gings and shoes, and light gloves, COM
| pleted rather striking picture, which
by force of contrast did not look nearly
| so smart as the plain covert cloth cos
tunes worn by Mrs. Willie Allen and
Mrs. Walter Chaplin. These last were
made With skirts to the ankle leggings
OF the same material and dark sailor
! hat, correct in every detail Faultless
in fit and eminentiy quiet and ladylike,
they were capital examples of how women
should dress.
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
MOHAIR is USED.

Mohair would seem to be almost too
light material for a bicycle skirt, and
yet some exceedingly smart mohair
gowns have been turned out. They are,
of course, deliciously light, and if they
have besides the elastic straps to fasten
mthe to the leggings there need be no
dread of their flying up. Dark brown
| mohairs, made with knickerbocl1ers to
match and tan leggings and low shoes,
are exceedingly smart, and, worn with
brown silk shirt waist and brown sailor
hat, are exceedingly becoming. Light
shirt waists of cambria, percale or wash
chevoits also look well for warm weather
riding with a dark skirt. But costume
such as above described, all in the
brown, is much more becoming to any
and every figure. This putting of light
waists and a dark skirt together has an
ugly tendency to cut the figure and make
the waist look altogether too short and
chunky. A dark blue mohair made on
this plan looks best with black leggings
and black shoes, tan being too sharp a
contrast.
| Brown Holland linen, duck and pique ,
all are used afor summer costumes. The
brown Holland is deliciously cool, and,
with knickerbocker to match and can
vas leggings, the same shade looks so trim
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
READY-MADE COSTUMES.

In large stores ready made bicycle suits
sweeping assertion to make, quite too
sweeping that these ready made cos
TUNES are poor investment. But there
are very few women who possess what is
known as ready made figure--that is,
the model accepted by the leading shops
to be the correct one-and alterations
are rather lottery. When ready made
suit does fit there are many points in its
favor, the principal of which is it's cheap
ness. But great care must be taken in
the purchase, and careful women look to
see that the skirt is the right width, be-
sides being we'll and, above all things,
we'll finished. To have bad sewing on a
bicycle costume is really quite serious
matter, for it often causes nasty tumble
when hem or seam comes undone and
catches in the machine.
1t is the exceptioun when an unlined
skirt hangs well. The only ones that
do are of the heaviest double-face goods
quite unsuitable for summer wear. The
lined skirts as must all skirts, have the
facing or hem finished on the right side
SO there shall be no loose piece to catch
in the wheel. A women who disregarded
this had quite a serious tumble on her
way out of Central Park few days ago.
When she fell several people rushed to
her assistance, but found it impossible
to extricate her from her machine She
was taken into the house of a physician
on Fifty ninth street and had to be liter
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

very cold but I did not take any cold, and
never had any after-pain or any other pain.
1t was all due to God and Dr. Pierce's Fa-
vorite Prescription and Compound Extract
of Smart Weed. This is the eighth living
child and the largest of them ALL suf-
fered everything that flesh could suffer with
the other babies. I always had doctor
and then he could not help me very much,
but this time my mother and my husband
were alone with me. My baby was only
seven days old when got up and dressed
| and left nv room and stayed up all day."
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

nsdll Will cHllu, SO i
got two bottles last
September, and De-
celnber 18th 1 had a
twelve pound baby
girl. When I was
confined 4 zoas moi
sick in any z0qY. I
did not suffer any
pain, and when the
child was born l walk
ed into another room
and went to bed. I
keep your Extract of
Smart Weed on hand
all the time. 1t was
very cold weather
and our room was
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
BICYCLING COSTUMES.
Most Becoming and Convenient for
Female Cyclists.
LATEST STYLES AS SEEN IN THE
METROPOLIS.

Gowns, Gloves, Wells and Shoes-the Best
Devices for Keeping Down the Skirts
Some Outfits Seen on Central Park.
The Question of bicycling has become a
serious and weighty one. 1t was all very
well for a time to call it fad, but now
it has assumed proportions which are
simply alarming. When it was necessary
to have one bicycle gown little was
thought of the matter, but now the bicycle
outfit has quite cast into shade the ordi-
nary spring and summer outfit, and all
other gowns are positively neglected in
the mad pursuit of something novel and
original to wear on the wheel. When the
question was first mooted a year or two
ago as to whether women should ride,
and they decided they would, it would
scarcely have been conceived possible
that in SO short a time they would find it
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

and appropriate THAI y is sure to be very
much the fashion Simplicity md neat
ness are the watchwords to take for sina,is
bicycle gowns. Any flaring contrasts OF
color are decidedly bad FORM and the
best gowned women are those who
have everything in keeping The woman
who looks best on horseback is she who
has every detail of her riding habit,
gloves. hat and all, in the most severe
style.
PICTURESQUE EFFECTS.
Only in old prints and in old romances
are velvet riding habits and picturesque
hats with long plumes admired when a
woman is on horseback, and sthe same
rule applies equally well to woman on
a bicycle. Every superfuous adornment,
like every superfluous bit of goods, de-
tracts just SO much from the general
effect. And this fact the best tailors rec
ognize thoroughly, and make up their
gowns accordingly
While the weather is warm the coolest
kind of shirt waists are permissible, but
every costume that is properly made must
| have jacket to match the skirt, and
most women look best when the day is
cool enough to allow the jackets being
worn. The artistic lines of woman S
figure show to advantage on wheel as
| much as when in the saddle and any
| thing that is loose never looks SO becom-
ing as when it is tight fitting. There is
great diversity in opinion as to the
proper way in which the waist or coat
should be made The Norfolk jacket
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

Deer;ng, 2,r, Aitv 2is;l. 1895.
ORDERED hat ii EraiIns lie given
owners OF property or hli3Lto,i street FROM
stevens Plain avenue 10 The summit of
Mitchell's Hill. called. by the Committee
on New Sreetts. on ihe mat ter of altering
said street to grade, anti that the city clerk
give notice TO all parties Interest Ell by sds
yert;sing the same in at least two newsy
papers, and, hat the hearing Shall be hald
June 18th. at 4. o'clock y. No.. at the corner
of Stevens Plains avenue and Brighten
street. Voted that the same bave passaget
A true copy Of order passed in City CouRcu
May 21ta, 'o5.
Attest, u. Il. JONES, City (Serk
my2s S1awHN
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
Deeripc. Me. May e7th. 'e5

Deerine, Me. May 21th, '95.
ORDERED--Ihat u lt.nrnl be given
owners of property ON Ocean street, from
Oak to SAWYER and on SAWYER > rect from
Ocean 10 7 hoo AS street. g fl+,, by the
committee on Nnw SIfAets ~ Tin. matter of
altering said streets t. grace. Hnd !;at the
city cleih give notice 70 VI parties in.
teiestets ny advertising t." san e Il at loasp
two newspapers ana t;.Ht the hearing snail
be held June 10Th, 1S.J af o., luck, y. M,
on the corner OF DC an .iiu ttwt er streets.
Voted that the sane lave a ,.:ssaEe. A
true copy OF order passeu in city Cuunoil.
MAY 27tn, '9j.
Attest. /. L. NJ :. Ei>y Cork.
my29 t'&lw3w|
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
Rumford Falls and Rangley Lakes
Railroad Company.
NOTICE TO CONTRACTORS.

SEALED proposals for the construction
of about nine and one-half uiles al rtiiIo..i
will be received by W. rrtenril, Tor Inc
building committee. at RUrioid Fails, Me-.
until Monday, June 10Th. 1885 Ut o'clock
p. N. Plans, specifications, forms of hid
ootuined Mt the En&ineer's office, humford
Falls. Me-. after J9ne arA, lSa5 The right
to reject any and all proposals is retaineds
Il. B. S'l6AipN,
my23tojeS Chief Engineer.
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
Whites Bankrupt Sale
Boots and Shoes.

We have Just received 3 large bankrupt stook
of Women's uxiord Ties in black and russett
lot OF Women's ST. so Oxfords which we wiM
ssll at S100 per pair. We shall also in-
clude in this sale several odd lots of vari-
boots and oxford ties in small and medium
Sizes Misses and chiIdren's button boots and
oxford ties in all kinds and sizes. We are ce.
termined to sell these goods and are prepared
to sell at the lowest prices ever offered in the
CITY, je7df
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

cioth Is quite different from one made up
IN auck or pique or even in mohair. By
llohalr Is meant the alpaca which is
SO much the rage at present. All the
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
A VALUABLE HINT.

For the benefit of those who are forced
to consult economy, a secret may now
be divulged which the dressmakers and
the tailors have not cared to make public.
1t is, in fact, that one of the best pat
terms of a bicycle skirt is a modified bell
skirt, which will flare out well around
the bottom and yet can be made to fit
smoothly over the hips and have the re-
quisite quantity of fullness direct at the
back An ordinary seamstress, with
careful supervision and good paper pat
tern, can cut one of these skirts, and a
good deal of money can be saved by SO do
ing. There is something about the bell
skirt which adapts itself to any goods,
and it can be shortened as desired The
prettiest length for a skirt is about to the
ankles. 1t can be little shorter, but
that is not necessary. Very few women
ride such distances as to make it neces-
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08

ash costumes which are made up fol-
very often, and there is not one laundress
in twenty who can be trusted satisfactor-
lily to wash and iron anything that has
plaits in it, On this account most women
prefer to have their coats or jackets made
on the plan of the little blazer coats OF
even of the cloth jackets with loose fronts
which are voted the thing this season.
The Portland daily press., 1895-06-08
PAINLESS CHILDRIRTH.

Mrs FRED HUNT, of Glenville, ~. Y,
says: =" l read about Dr. Pierce's Fa.
voTite Prescription being SO good for a wo-
Orleans County monitor. [volume] (Barton, Vt.) 1872-1953, 1895-08-19
PROBATE COURT.

The following business was trans
acted in probate court during the past
week:
Helen Kim ball Estate, Barton. J.
n. Webster, executor, presented his
account. Referred to Sept. 10, 1895,
at Barton.
Calvin Wilcox Estate, Derby. Lii
cense to sell personal property modi-
fed.
Betsey A Lawrence Estate, Glover
w. F. Clark, administrator, settled his
account. Decree of distribution made
Oney E. Rowell. minor, Albany
Guardian settled his account.
j. Porter Baldwin Estate, Barton
Commissioners report returned and
accepted.
Amos Metcalf Estate, Irasburgh. L.
r. Guild, administrator with will an
nexed, settled his account
Mary E. Albee Estate, Morgan. Ex-
ecutor's inventory returned and ac-
cepted.
L. r. Albee Estate, Oh arleston. Ii
cense granted administ rat tor to sell
real estate.
E. B. Hill, insane, Irasburgh Guard
ian's inventory returned and accept
ed.
MOSES Hdlu0S ESTATE, Of0OuSDOrO.
Upon hearing, will disallowed.
Martha Branch Estate, Newport. H.
S. Root, executor, presented his ac-
count. Hearing assigned for Sept. 9,
1895, at Newport.
Eleazer Porter Estate, Troy. Exc
cutor's inventory returned and ac-
cepted.
Betsey Newcomb Estate, Albany.
VIII presented for probate, by Jennie
M. Chafey, executrix therein named.
Referred to September goth, 1895, at
Barton Landing.
Orleans County monitor. [volume] (Barton, Vt.) 1872-1953, 1895-08-19
Up HILL SCIENCE.

The United States, in common will
all the other civilized nations of the
world, has been called upon to under.
take an Antartic expedition. The cal
was issued by the Geographical Con
gress, whose recent meetings have
attracted wide attention. The only
American at the gathering who was
at all identified with the movement
was Gen Greedy, and we doubt if he
was able to promise much support to
such an exploration on behalf of this
! country The scientific establish
ments which carry on research for
chronological and geological purposes,
such as the Smithsonian Institute and
Harvard and Cornell, are not likely
to be attracted to a region which is
supposedly so barren. Private CAPT
tai can hardly be raised in sufficient
amount, and Government appropri-
alton is out of the question.
DR.. Neumayer of Ham burg was the
most jealous advocate of Antartic ex-
ploration at the Congress, and he be-
lieved that several branches of science
would be fostered by renewed ex-
ploration carried out on lines similar
to those of Sir James Clark Ross of
half century ago. Terrestrial mag
netism within the South Polar regions
is one of the most attractive subjects
for investigation, and no advancement
in this respect can be expected with
out magnetic survey of the region
and the establishment of temporary
observatory equipped with modern
instruments for recording magnetic
phenomena. DR.. Neumayer also hoped
to determine the figure of the globe
by observation from high southern
ATTITUDES, and to study the phenome
ma of ice and the nature and forma-
ton of icebergs, with special regard
to the explanation of the ice age.
Without such knowledge it remains
difficult to arrive at definite results
the various epochs of the
earth's existence.
Orleans County monitor. [volume] (Barton, Vt.) 1872-1953, 1895-08-19
State News Items.

Among the additional speakers at
the state Christian Endeavor conven-
ton at Burlington in September are
Gather Clark, Rev. DR.. Ell. @. Far
row of Albany, and D. L. Moody.
Governor Woodbury. has appointed
Hon. William n. Platt of Shoreham a
trustee of the Vermont state asylum
at Waterbury, vice Hon. w, III. Hunt,
deceased, for the term ending Nov.
80, 1895.
The Kirby Granite Company, of
which Hon George w. Hendee of
Morrisville is president, was organ
lied at st. Johnsbury last week with
a capital of $4,000. The quarry of
this company is near Congressman
CIRCUITS home.
Several young men of Bristol were
arrested last week, charged with
using dynamite in taking trout from
the New Haven river at New Haven
mills. They were all bound over to
appear before the grand jury. Bail
In the sum of $3.50 in each case was
furnished.
Henry III. Vail of New York has
given to the village Of Woodstock six
acres of level meadow land, con-
venlently located, to be used as
play ground and place for field sports
by the youth of the village. Mr. Vail
paid 81 800 for the land. He is a
brother of Hon. Homer w. Vail of
Pomfret.
Orleans County monitor. [volume] (Barton, Vt.) 1872-1953, 1895-08-19

There will be Grange picnic held
on the grounds of the State Agricult-
ural College and Experiment Station
on Thursday, August 22. The Central
Vermont railroad will sell tickets for
fare one way for distances over
thirty four miles, and for two cents a
mile for lesser distances. A cordial
invitation is extended to all farmers
and their families to visit the institu-
tions and look over their equipment
and work.
Companies E, F, and Ell, of the Ber-
dan Sharpshooters, will go into camp
at Basin Harbor, Lake Champlain.
August 26. Each comrade will wear
the sharpshooter badge and the
Kearney patch, and should send 81 to
| Sherrod Brown, treasurer, New Haven.
| VT. to pay for rent of grounds, boats.
etc. All should go with blank cts and
three days rations, prepared to stay
through the week. All trains stop at
Vergennes station, to which tickets
| should be bought.
Reports from towns along the Otter
Creek and in the southwest part of
the state indicate considerable dam
age from high water. At Bristol Sun
day the New Haven river was higher
than during the freshet last spring
G. w. Brooks grist- mill dam was
carried away and roads and bridges
slightly damaged. In Lincoln several
dams and bridges have gone out and
the damage is estimated at 5000. In
East Middleoury and Ripton dams
have been carried out and much hay
and grain swept away. Reports from
Shoreham, Bridport, and Ticonderoga,
Grown Point, Port Henry, Westport,
and Whitehall, n. Y, show large
damage to crops.
Herbert Cobb, alias Livingston,
escaped from the house of correction
Cobb pretended to be sick and was
allowed to go to the medical room,
where he was to wait for Keeper
Richmond, who dispenses drugs. Mr..
Richmond was in bed at the time.
Cobb utilized the time while Mr.. Rich
mond was getting ready to attend to
him to make good his escape. He |
sprung the iron bars in the window |
and let himself down by the assist
ance of cord made out of bed cloth |
ing and got away. The force of keep |
ers at the house of correction imme |
diately made search for him, bit |
have been unable to find any trace of |
him since his escape. Cobb is about |
10 years old, weighs 125 pounds, has
gray eyes, brown hair, large head,
round face, and is five and a half feet |
in height. He was sentenced by the
Windsor county court for one year at |
the house of correction for an ASSAULT t
on a man, and had served two months
OF his term He escaped from sim
liar institution in Massachusetts, over
a year ago.