The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-03-31
WOMAN OF FASHION.

were In the habit OF arranging their Golf
/ fures without the aid OF hairpins This,
Z OF course, was because the poor things
had no such conveniences. for the woman
who could not appreciate the value and
varied uses Of the hairpin, would be a
7 very unfeminine creature. For lack OF
I these useful accessories the simple Grecian
maidens were sadly limited in their OPP
/ portunities for variety and originality Of
couture. II was all the same Psyche knot
which, by the way. is misnomer. for
] Psyche no more deserves the credit for
I originating that couture than does our
own Pocahontas. for example. Pocahon-
/ tas was wise and seldom did" her stim
black locks at all: but when she did. she
| tied them in knot which Psyche could
not have improved upon, and the only
! difference was that hers was black and
/ Psyche's was gold. But neither OF these
! primitive females knew the Joys OF the
modern maid, whose chief charm is in
| the arrangement OF her tresses. Beauty
/ draws us by a single hair" is all very well
i for poetry. but practical charmers know
arranged locks on a. decidedly plural
number is what the poet really meant to
refer to.
The appliances used in the construction
| Of the couture change with the fashions.
but the number Of them at any stated
/ time would hll a good-sixed carpenters
| tool box. The hair dressing art Is just
/ now in a state of admit her age and quietly
/ accept the situation as the English wo-
/ man does. In this respect the American
| woman is transition; when to wave or
| not to wave Is the burning question. The
| decision is almost sure to be eventually
! In favor OF the affirmative, SO that the
| possessors OF curling tongs and waving
/ irons had better not be too hasty about
I putting them aside, The ultra-fashon-
! able woman of the moment Is decidedly
| hat-headed, with her hair parted and
| pasted with shell combs. and her Dutch
/ bonnet set back over the knot at the
/ back of her head but this style cannot
continue when the summer sun begins
| to get in his heavy work. and II will
| not be long before women will be max
/ ing artificial bumps OF reverence and self
| esteem In the place where the phrenologist
I says they ought to be. Nothing but the
| curling iron will give the hair the fluffy
| look which the French women have always
/ cultivated. The French women, by the
/ way, have never fancied the style Of part
| ing the hair. The late craze for 1t IS en-
! tirely English and American. and its pop
\ ularity on this side of the water has had
| no effect upon our Gallo friends. The
secret of this prejudice Hes In the fact
| that the part in the middle OF the fore
| head undoubtedly makes one look older,
| and IL there Is anything which the French
/ woman breads as she would "A plague, IL
! is the appearance of age.
II | were going to give a receipt for
pretty couture l should say: Take a small
head-small because IL can be enlarged
| If desired, or allowed to retain its nor
| NAL size when small heads are fashi6na-
| BILE. Then wave the hair all over the
/ head and knot Il up in the spot that is
/ most becoming. If one Is not blessed with
/ a small head, il is best not to wave the
hair all over. II there Is short hair Of
| half length to be disposed OF. It should be
| combed out separate from the long hair
waived and tucked under the knot at the
! back. This prevents ugly ends from
| standing out in the most conspicuous
| part of the knot, and gives a softer effect
around the face, at the same time ad-
hitting of a very tight firm twist of the
back hair. This short hair may be parted
1 In the middle or at the side, or combed
! straight back.
The French coiffures have compromised
with us by parting their hair on the
| side, when 1t Is short, and then waving
| II in big fluffy waves which do away with
any mannish look 1t might otherwise
have. French women cling to the one sol
itary little curl in the middle of the fore
/ head. Only one style follows the English,
and in this the hair is so fluffy that the
part is hardly visible Another part of
| her anatomy which gives the French
woman much trouble is her ear. She OBJ
| jects to ears, and she covers them up
whenever she can. The present modes are
| of great assistance to her in the attain
ment of this object, for, to tell the truth,
ears are not fashionable anywhere For
elabor ate headdress the pun is the correct
| thing, especially for matrons, and the
more double bow-knots one can tie in
ones hair at the crown of the head the
better.
All this, and much more is true Of coiff-
ures, but after it is all said, there is one
| thing more to say, and that is that the
| particular arrangement that Is becoming
| to each woman should be her own indl-
/ vidual style, and the suggestions here
! given are only offered as examples to try
| and discard If they are not becoming for
no rule OF fashion is less binding than
| that which relates to head-dress.
There are three striking features which
! characterize the new spring dresses, any
one of which is sufficient to make a dress
look modern and frst-blouse waists and
wide skirts. The long shoulders are not
especially new. They are merely more of
the same. However, they are none the
less a decidedly spring feature. A glace
silk in odd blue shade shows the long
shoulders made very fiat with jet en-
broidered epaulets caught down over very
full puffed sleeves. The waist is a blouse
of ACCORDION pleated silk, with one wide
box pleat in front, the whole being sewed
into jetted belt. The skirt is very wide,
with a jet trimming at the bottom, and to
make 1t appear still fuller, a panel of ac-
Gordon pleated silk is set in on each side.
The new French skirt has godets at
the sides well as at the back fact
which makes il even more difficult to
hang" than formerly. silk skirt, es-
pecally If 1t be black, must be hung
with more pains than cloth one. There
is a revulsion in favor of MORE again.
and the dealers have taken 1t off the IS
cent bargain counter to sell II at some
thing like the old prices. This is because
it is needed to take the place Of the heavy
velvets and velveteens Of winter.
A black MORE gown with a blue CLINT
worn by lady who was not Mrs. Gould
nor Mrs. Vanderbilt. but very fashion
able lady, nevertheless-had a wide skirt
with five godets at back and sides. The
bodice was like all the rest-a blouse