New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-15
THE NEW BONNETS.

WHAT WILL BE WORN IN NEW-YoRk
The frs, hats and bonnets shown In New-iorN
FOR autumn wear marks the return OF pam ie'' "
popular favor. There are few pohne~ ol a. s,.
braided chenille and satin or grosgrain CORDS put
the majority OF tae shapes offered for carry i@A
are Of smooth French felt
A nautical phraseo.ogy seems 10 per'aoe '"e "
llnery rooms probably as a reflex from the yae"'
races The straight brImmed square-cro"hen ha'@
are many; are wide and pro)ect'ns ~ w
brm in front and short at the back; others are mar
row In brlm at the back and front Many are cut
out at the back Of the brm 20 allow for the COLI
fure ~, all these hats called sailors lhey
are trimmed with double triple brims OF heaVy
satin ribbon rufiled and laid above the brn OF te
and by the wide trimmings at the sides WHICH na''
been In vogue during the summer
These new sailor hats are vorr further for"aro
than they were early IN the summer, ana TOT thas
reason II is necessary to have a trimming under
the brlm the back. Where the brim IL Ger, AT
the back this may be composed OF ears OF Ve'et
and cluster OF Ivy leaves and berries, with sns.e
huge blossom In rose or crimson veivet 10 give
touch OF color Sometimes a bandeau or crusned
roses is used and these are parted to III around
the fashionable knot OF hair.
The fayorte trimming at the back, however, Is
single crushed rose worn on each side OF the
knotted hair under the narrow brim. THESE roses
may be pale pink. but they are more often pure
white and they give a touch OF distinction to DARK
sable brown or black hat This dead white Is then
repeated in a barb Of applique lace. an aigrette
or in some other slight trimming near the 'front.'
and the wearer adds TO her tailor costume OF DARK
Bannockburn tweed or twilled serge heavy whi.o
gloves OF dull gace Kid. hnished with trP'e s"'e"
ing of sef-colored silk.
The "ears" and hollow. short, cornucopa-iiks
trimmings OF glace velvet and satin used al me
sides to give a wide effect 10 bonnets ana mats arc
reneated on the new hats OF felt. There are also
IN
dore brown and prairie green. the new green OF
the season These rosettes have poppy centres
crImped chiffon being arranged like the petals OK
a flower around the stamens and round centres
OF poppy. .
There Is a decided fancy for the use OF velvet
roses panses and other artificial blossoms. which
follow no natural model in color or form but are
simply creations OF the mllliners fancy as our
Partisan correspondent has Indicated
virot sends over many soft turbans OF the new
miro.r velvet, which Is much shorter IN nap then
last season and more Lace in surtace-when IL 10
called satin mlrolr. These becoming little turoans
are generally trimmed with fur. either saoie OK
Persian lamb A fascinating little turban OF NOR
dore brown satin miroir mad an Irregular soie
crown Ike a Tam O'Shanter cap The folded orim
was edged with black Persian lamb and Ahe nat
was finished at the back with standing corhuco-
nla-like trimming OF the satin mror' edseo WIN
lamb a black aigre.te and the miniature mead OF
the animal
Still other turbans are OF dark green miroir 'ei-
vet trimmed with bouffsnt rose.tes OF DRESDEN r'o
hon in the fashionable shades Of emerald ana navy.
Three aullls in artificial fan-shape, mace UP ..
miniature feathers in green and blue ana green anu
gold trimmed the hat at the side and looked some
VIVA, like the feather regalia OF savage "arriof
These turbans are likely 70 rival the s"asn'
trimmed felt hats later in the season. pu' lor eais
autumn wear come variety Of the sailor nat VIII
probably be pre-em1ent. As RUE tne mats 'o'"
less complicated than they did
There is an effort toward return 10 simplicity
IN the make OF me hat and bonnet. Bonnets are
decidedly longer and generally exhibit some Khd OF
a crown The absurdl:y of the Dutch bonnet winch
NJ one time consisted Of little more than lou VI
stran far back on the head with rosettes OF 'ioe's
over the ears has completely Departed even 'he
violet mania has passed There are no violet Gus
ters vet in evidence among millinery uHti'n'is>
The new bonnets. however retain the VIDE "i"-
-,,,gs ar m. ears but are a trfe higher over tle
forehead They are worn further forward anu
there IS a tendency in some cases 20 corohe' ei'
fects III.
There are many black bonnets relieved py WHITE
let bonnets formed Of a tracery In open "orh Vi
snanrles are shown with trimmings OF pure "hlte
ann lone lace which succeeds the mucn-used butter
and scru lacas Of summer. White is also used with
sable brown A dark seal brown shade Black IL
used with golden brown and with eneraIu' '"ous"
perhaps the most popular combination OF 'he seaso'
is emerald and navy blue Bright scarlet Is revived
for combination with black The Solter'no req AM
orchid pinks numbered with the ce'ors o' ''e
past.
There are some exceedingly picturesque bonneo
in invisible blue and green. bordered with becoming
but nondescrpt fluffy flowers. which frame me
face in a bewltching manner. An aigrette IS 'hen
raised and a full trimming projected at the sde
and the new bonnet is complete.
Virot and other Partisan mlliners have sent
sfrot Of
little garments akin 10 cape and jacket. Ihese are
made up in velvet and Jet and velvet ana cnlHon.
some Of the most chic OF these trimmed with
entire animals OF miniature variety like saoies os
ernne. Thus a charming little garment OF dark
brown velvet is made with Eton Jacket fronts
finished by large revers turning back from nat
vestlike piece formed OF sable skin. TWO sharp.
full points OF velvet fall from the shoulders and
are bordered on either side by small Russian
sables their claws mounted and their heads resting
together on the shoulder sixth sabe forms the
trimming OF the neck. To be worn with the .lIue
garment was a soft turban Of brown veiyet with
a crown OF velvet trimmed at the side Win TWO
standing sable tails and a white aigrette ana mn
caught down by a caDochon OF diamond and TIVE
white roses, which rested when the hat was worn
on each side OF the knotted hair
A pretty little Partisan cape OF black velvet was
composed OF six sharply accentuated points gath
cred al the top near the neck make them bouf-
FAM and falling over two rather wide overlapping
ruflies OF black chiffon. Two rows OF black veiye.
ribbon an inch wide trimmed these rufies. and
the neck OF the garment finished with high
collar incrusted with jet spansles and slashed 10
flare from the throat in six sharp leaf points
tailor costumes is four-button glove OF heavy
glace kid, or what is sometimes termed dogskn.
These gloves may have a round or p.que seam, and
they are trimmed with black or self color and
stitched on the back with heavy triple stitehinss
OF SIN.