davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

stand that out of that number there have
been received about six declinations. An
arkite remarked to me, "You see il the
people on the hills have more guests than
they can accommodate in their houses
and gardens there are the vacant lots, ana
then he sighed and said he would have to
hurry off and try to hire float, as his ark
could hold thirty, and seventy would pc
over. Well, am going to be there, and san
Francisco pretty girls will be ably repre-
sented and will outshine all the lights, sta
tionary and afloat, am certain.
What do you think, as the French
say, is the ''dernier cri?" None OF
you can come within a mile of it
if you guessed all day, so I will
tell you at once. 1t is the 1dinner ring, !"
SO called because it is worn only for din
ner display and at full dress ones
only, as it has to be offset with
much elegance of dress, but in truth
it is a barbarous-looking thing, a regular
monstrosity, covering the entire joint.
Now, probably none of us will indulge in
this sort of ''shield of jewels" but it is
my pleasant duty to give you the very
latest news appertaining to all such things,
and the latest settings fer rings are square
in form, composed of rhinestones; for in
stance, one has three diamonds in the CEN
ter, the same number of emeralds above
and rubleS below. his Is SAID TO De OQQ
in effect but the golden circlet holding
one or more jewels is so graceful that it
will always rival other styles in beauty.
The rage is for small diamond pins
which are horizontally fastened and
are not more than an inch and half
in length and never over half an inch wide.
In these one sees no new designs, sword
and hymen torches being the favorltes.
These are preferred greatly to the ''stick
pins" which we all lost by the dozen, as
they never would stay in place.
"The set" no longer would be seen car
rying lorgnons unless wrought in gold
when EN- toilette, and frequently these are
also ieweied, inlaid with enamels, marvel
ously designed, and one that excites general
admiration for it is in white enamel, with
gold-wrought borderings, and is studded
with dear little diamond butterflies.
Let me return to more practical subjects.
The bride of Wednesday last had wonder
full number of beautiful gifts, as she is
rich in relatives and friends. Among her
presents was an exquisite fichu of rare
old lace, from a charming widow. Then
there was great bowl of cut glass, gleam-
ing like monster diamond when the sun
fell on it, and silver bowl and dainty bits
of Dresden and Royal Worcester china.
Fans in lace and satin, silver in all forms,
shapes and designs, from the very useful
and practical forks to the unique fittings
for her writing desk. Of course the bride
looked charming in her snowy satin, and
the maid of honor, her first cousin, is one
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

OF the handsomest young women here.
She cares more for the Fruit and Flower
Mission than for the cotillon or an As
sembly ball.
A very stylish fascinating belle will be a
bride in September, and she is to have a
church wedding hear from headquarters,
in society hope to have something to tell
you about her trousseau before long, but
then she is one of those fortunate ones
who would ''glorify gunnysack."
One bride is having made clOudlike
gown of the finest, softest cream white silk
crepe, which has rose silk lining. 1t is
cut so as to show her lovely throat in front
and edged with gold and silk
spangles. The long drapery flowing from
the shoulders in scarfs is edged with frills
of lace. In the back there is a yoke
box pleat which widens until it lies on
the floor an artistically cut demi-train.
The great sleeves are of the pink silk
draped with crepe, with frills innumerable
of lace.
One of the prettiest and sweetest old
ladies here has real picture gown of the
princess with a moderately long train.
This dinner gown has two beautiful and
costly rhine buckles in the back at the
waist line through which are passed wide
black satin ribbons which tie in gay little
bows toward the sides in front; and the
front, it is of ivory-white satin, yelled with
black net, heavily embroidered with jet.
Small but excellent rhinestone buttons
beautify it, and low, pointed collar of
the embroidered jet is edged with creamy
lace.
at the Baldwin this week the new
woman even must have enjoyed the de-
licious comedy of THE Amazons." The
Marchioness of Castlejordan was
stylish figure in her well-cut bluish-gray
gown with its black vest. The costume
bore the stamp of "the latest" Her black
bonnet of tulle and Jet had just the right
touch of the gray shade and completed the
harmonious whole; and again when we
see her in the last act in toilet of black
silk with small brocaded sprigs, with long
sort of redingote, having black vest
of iet-em broidered net and wide fchu-
like ruffle of the same around her
pleases us best. A dear little bonnet of
Jet is most becoming to her, and am an
ticipating Mrs. Walcot's gowns in "An
Ideal Husband" next week, and hope to
see more OF her.
1SaDcl Irving uISo appears dltcI ucl LoH-
don adventure in a smart fawn-colored
tailor-made suit, consisting of plain full
skirt and rather long coat, while the vest
is of contrasting shade of fawn, embroid-
cred with narrow braiding. Her skirt,
collar and tie are beyond criticism. A
jaunty hat completed an excellent cos
tune. and, as boy in green velveteen, she
is quite as bewitching as when attired in
her delicate art-colored gym" dress, but
when appareled in her dinner gown she is
a delightful vision. The skirt is of heavy
ivory-white MORE silk beautifully gored,
and the bodice is daintily yelled in lace
and chiffon. Wilhelmina, from first to
last, looks sweetly pretty, whether in her
gray corduroy jacket, in her athletic cos
tune, or in the lovely brocaded blue satin
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

Brussels lace to go over pink satin, your
Venetian point for purple velvet, your
Duchess lace for gray or black satin, silk
or crepe.
The family of Southern Senator have
some treasures in real lace, but then you
have heard about them, am certain, if
you have not enjoyed seeing the fairy-ike
fabrics. Many others have rare and beau
tiful stores of lace which they prize far
"beyond diamonds and many precious
stones.'s
The almost universal use of the seal in
Europe and the East is expatiated upon in
Vogue. The writer says: "The idea of a
seal and sealing-wax among other things,
is to avoid putting ones tongue to the en-
velope to gum it-an insult to the receiver
as much as nasty practice of the writer" f"
After such an announcement from so ex-
cellent an authority no one can consider
herself sit" unless every epistIe is duly.
not only signed, but sealed as well.
Much interest has been manifested in
an article which appeared on the 18th of
last June in The CALL on the subject of
the new society of the Daughters of Gin
cinnati," but in reading the lines which
stated that "any woman eligible to the
new order must be the lineal descendant
of an army or navy officer, no matter of
what nationality, who fought In the war
of independence" | felt certain there
was some mistake, for why the name of
Cincinnati" if these were the only quail
fcations, besides being charming woman
holding an assured social position? SO 1
wrote to headquarters for Information, and
shall quote the reply: "The eligibility
consists in being the descendant of any
original officer of the Cincinnati the de-
scent not being restricted, as it is in the
order of the Sons, to the eldest sons de-
scendants, but through any son or daugh-
ter of the ancestor"
am happy to be able to reply so con-
cisely to the many questions which have
been asked relative to the qualifications
requisite for admission to this new patri-
otic and historical organization.
Have you seen the little orange-and-
crimson buttons during the past week
which have adorned the battonholes of
many manly coats, and do you know what
they signify?
They mean that the wearers have
houses, arks or yachts in Belvedere, and
take an active interest in the beautiful
venetian 1ete which Will take place on the
Sd of next month. Every one is on the
qui vive. as if half the rumors are to be
Thousands upon thousands of ntHuns lanterns
will be used, and there is a boom
in candles; but candles and Ian.
terms will not be alone in their
glory, for one ark is to have an
electric plant on board and Mr.. Pope's
launch the Mascot 10 to be radiantly illumi-
mated with electricity and will lead the
long procession, every craft OF which will
come the launches, then the boats and
lastly the skiffs, and from every point of
hilly Belvedere red lights will be burned
and on each and every ark and yacht afioat
colored lights will CLEAN. About 5000 in
vitations have been issued, and under
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

ton metal and in mother-ofpearl, and
tiny buckles of jet, rhinestones and COL
ored stones adorn the hats, while only our
house slippers now can be beautifed with
the buckles of gold or silver or the old
paste heirlooms, for ties are now
en- grande toilette. But to return to
our buckles. Comparatively few indulge in
gold ones, and the loveliest I have seen
are in the new semi-oxidized repousse sill
yer, composed of cherub's heads and wings
entwined with roses. Avoid designs that
look like miniature doors, gates or nail
heads if you cannot afford one in silver,
which are beautiful in design. Look at
those in mother-of-pearl, if you want one
for light gown; they are very fashionable; ;
but if in mourning those in cut jet are
handsome. Designs in aluminium are aG-
vocated for seaside wear as they will not
tarnish. l consider an aluminium sauce
pan excellent, but excuse me from wearing
buckles of this metal.
A young woman was crossing the bay
few days ago in a very good black serge
dress, which had one of the new style
sailor collars in white serge, with two rows
of black braid. Her gloves were of white
chamois and her sailor hat and veil white
also, but the effect was entirely spoiled be-
cause she wore brown leather belt. OF
course she should either have had one of
black leather, or better far one of white
kid or chamoiS. Attention to such appar-
emily insignificant details insures the sue
cess of everything appertaining to dress
and this pretty young woman should have
known better.
On the same boat 1 sat near the most re-
tiring gentle bit of a woman, whose hat
gave her the most ludicrous expression,
simply because her milliner had placed
next her face stiff wreath OF forget-me-
nots. 1t is all very fine to have flowers
nesting against our hair, but not against
our foreheads, and one of our fashionable
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

creation worn in the closing act. And,
Lady Tommy, where did you have
that dear little brown tweed Jacket
made? It fits you to perfection,
but your pinkish gown suited you also,
and you did not look in the least like
boy in your very pretty pink fowered silk
with just touch of black velvet. Indeed,
you all were so charming when arrayed in
conventional evening gowns that 1, for
one, felt glad that you were instructed
never again to appear without skirts"
Sergeant" kShuter's garments cannot be
described as things of beauty, but then
they were not intended to be. They are
describable by the word appropriate"
At the Columbia Theater the Jilt
wore pretty gray gown in the first act.
The full plain skirt was well hung and the
odd tea jacket, laid in box pleats, opening
over an oriental crimson figured waist,
slightly bloused, was excellent and the
touch of brightness emphasized the dark
ness of very velvety brown eyes. Again,
the evening dress of creamy crepey texture
was completed with just the right touch of
color, by the poppies, and in the last
amber satin went well with the
skirt of black brocaded satin. In
deed Miss Grey showed good taste in
the selection of her toilettes; and the same
may be said about the heiress, who looked
we'll in the dark brown habit, and very
fetching in her dinner dress of pink.
the skirt having a light creamy ground
covered with pink blossoms, and the waist
was we'll draped with chiffon, and the green
ribbons gave a Frenchy touch to the whole.
Mrs. Welter, the widow, was as neat as
pin, and is again to be congratulated on
the suitability of her costumes. Her
daughter, Phyllis, was always sweet and
prettily garbed.
To conclude, when purchasing material
for your evening gowns purchase an extra
piece if you would have your costume
complete. That now means you must
have your fans match your gowns, and
as they are going to be large make due
allowances.
At very swell garden party across the
pond lately the Princess of Wales and sey-
eral leaders of fashion appeared in gowns
of the loveliest most silky of crepons and
silk and wool and silk and camels hair are
to be in much demand this winter.
MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

girls does not seem to realize that pale
shades of buff and yellow are not becoming
to women with high color.
Many of our well-known women are de-
voted to the bicycle, and not few ride
remarkably well, notably the wife of one
of our prominent railroad men. She is
frequently seen on her wheel in San Mateo
this summer. Some, however, are de-
cidedly ungraceful, and the reason is, ac-
cording to the best authority, the tendency
to lift the knees with pumping motion,
and the great secret of easy riding for a
woman lies in the proper angle of the seat
post 1t should be nearly perpendicular.
the position of the saddle with relation to
the pedals. The correct adjustment should
bring the rider almost directly over her
work, so as to avoid reaching and pushing
out in front. The greatest evil which is to
be feared from the bicycle craze is that
women will overdo it and permanently in
jure themselves.
If am not much mistaken our leading
jewelers. are shortly to be busy designing
corselets, for they are quite the latest
style and mostbecoming to slender women,
not being so heavy looking as the stom-
acher, and moreover, the gracefully
pointed curves which encircle breast and
hip add greatly to the shapeliness of the
figure. Mile. Matbilde Welsweller, who
has just married Baron Henri Rothschild,
had an ideal corselet made entirely of dia-
monds and jewels. 1t is described as being
ten inches in depth and is composed of a
medley of diamond true lovers knots,
interspersed with drops of magnificent
pearls. The bottom is finished with a rich
looking fringe of large pearls. 1t is as we'll
to read descriptions of such beautiful
for 4 have icl 1a lro1f -
seeing many of them.
The subject of "Baby Rooms" is quite
fashionable at present. One mother has
Just designed Rosebud Room" saying
that whether the expected little one is a
boy or girl the room will be suitable, as
baby will at all events be rosebud and
SO the apartment is tinted rosy pink.
A gray carpet strewn with pink roses
covers the floor, while pink and
white angels fly across the pinkish
ceiling. Baby's brass crib is draped with
gray silk, strewn with beautiful long
stemmed roses, and the little quilt is of
white silk, embroidered by grandmother,
with quite the most lovely buds you have
ever seen. The little dressing-table is
draped with the same silk as that over the
crib, while an oval glass in brass frame is
surrounded with repousse cherubs and all
the toilet articles are OF ivory. The sun
peeps through lace curtains lined with
rose-colored silk, and the furniture is up
holstered in gray with roses. No one
would object to coming into this cold
world were such dear little room await
ing them with angels flying over the CELL
ing and dado of all the most beautiful
roses in the world growing together.
Another tiny mite" says Harper's
Bazaar, is to spend her infancy il room
all blue, pink and silver, for her name is
Aurora these delicate colors being seen in
the early dawn. The crib was an exact
reproduction of the chambered nautilus,
glistening with mother-of-pearl. The
coverlet was of a peculiar brilliant pink.
such as is seen in the dewy freshness of
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

the morning. and thin silken curtains of
pale blue were fastened back with repre-
sentation of the morning star. The walls
were of sea pink, ending in a frieze of
crescent moon and stars. the work of an
artist, and the ceiling was in pale blue,
covered with heecy clouds and half-veiled
stars, and here and there ray of golden
pink sunrise"
The rug was of deeper pink than the
walls and had an artistic border of water
lilies. At the window were curtains of
blue silk matching those over the crib and
hung from silver-plated poles finished
with silver star at each end. The dress
ing-table was lovely, delicate lace being
draped over rose silk, while bows of blue
and pink looped up the lace. All this for
tunate baby's toilette things were of silver
or mother -of-pearl, and, as you can imag-
inc, no expense was spared in the carrying
out of this unique idea; but nothing
appeals to me like the wee cradle sur
rounded with aeecy muslin curtains and
tinv frills, every stitch the work of a
mothers loving fingers. 1t is easy with a
full pocket to purchase beautiful things,
and their careful selection is proof of
affection; but there is something quite
different about the things into which are
dear me, am dangerously near a sermon,
SO to change the subject. Do you
know that several families here own
very, very lovely laces? The beauti-
full real lace wedding veil worn
by the dark-eyed beauty in tabeau so
recently at San Rafael is an heirloom.
This same family possesses some of the
most exquisite laces to be found in this
country, and many of US have seen and ad-
mired the point de Venise which adorns
the truly charming dinner gown of pale
pink satin which enhances the fair beauty
of the elder daughter. A fair-haired, blue
eyed Baltimorean, who is now away visit
ing her home, owns some founces of real
rose point which are most valuable.
A connoisseur in lace says keep your
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28
FASHIONS FOR MEN.

w n1Ce WdlSICOdIS are muCu worn III new
York and in England at present during the
day. the white waistcoats for day and even
ing being totally different garments. The
day walstcoat is made double or single
breasted. The single is the most stylish.
and is com mparatively high-buttoned in the
same V shape as the ordinary cloth waist
coats. The waistcoat for evening wear is
single or double breasted, cut q shape very
low like the cloth evening waistcoat.
The morning white waistcoat can be
worn with morning or cutaway coat, and
also with frock coats.
Lounge suits should be of Scotch or
homespun suitings, the kind known as
hopsack. The coats are shorter than last
year and the trousers have no crease to
them and are slightly wider.
Some English lounge coats are seen
bound with a heavy braid of darker
shade, but this style has not taken with
those who avoid outre fashions, and this
few changes as possible in clothing, for
we rise and put on our multi. and it serves
us until dinner time whether we indulge
in golf, take spin on the wheel or go
driving.
Now we cling to our dinner jackets,
many having quite collection of these
most comfortable coats. Some are shown
in New York faced with red, which gives
them rather the air of smoking jackets,
but they have quite an artistic air about
them.
The gray frock coat and trousers, for
merly thea %correct things for Ascot and
Goodwood, have vanished, and this year
only two men were seen at Ascot wearing
white hats, which used to be de rigueur.
trr 10, hi rlv 1nd daH fn
the absurd report that Wales would visit
America shortly and said, "The Prince
cannot leave England, for he has to lay
cornerstones and set the fashions over
there" But it would scarcely seem as
though his Highness still is leading in
this respect, for although he appeared this
year at Ascot in the usual gray suit and
hat his example found no followers.
Mr.. Kendall is said to be the best
dressed actor on the English stage and
Mr.. Drew is considered our best, but Her
bert Kelcey does very we'll indeed. Did
you all notice his hat band in the ANA
zonsY
am glad Drew will be here soon, as he
will give us not few ideas.
East the summer young man is said to
be lovely object, as he indulges in all
allowable colors and hues. Patent leather
shoes are universally worn with evening
dress.
Madras ties will be more seen than ever
this August, and by the way, it is most
correct to speak of "ties." You can say
cravats, and you might say neckties, but
don't if you wish to be thought to know
whats what" and don't talk about "a
Prince Albert" say 'frock coat" instead.
I have heard some remarks about scarlet
coats for golting
A scarlet sack coat is only worn at
match, if scarlet is the club color, other
wise it is not considered good form.
The fashion of wearing morning coats
and knickers of Scotch goods is the
smartest.
Before the Frawley Company gives
Zone of Our Girls" again, hope Captain
Gregory of the Tenth Hussars will procure
a correct uniform.
Some men wear shirts with cuffs at
tached, but without collars. G. c.
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

The morning white waistcoat can be
worn with morning or cutaway coat, and
also with frock coats.
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

East the summer young man is said to
be lovely object, as he INDUCES in all
allowable colors and hues. Patent leather
shoes are universally worn with evening
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

girls does not seem to realize that pale
shades of buff and yellow are not becoming
to women with high color.
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

belts are in great demand, which means
that buckles are worthy of much consid-
Grafton. They are shown in gold, silver.
nickel. aluminium. iron. brass. in compost
The San Francisco call., 1895-07-28

Some men wear shirts with cuffs at
tached, but without collars. &C.
The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1895-10-26
WITHOUT BLOODSHED.

They met at the corner of Monroe avenue
and Farmer street the other evening, and
both jumped back and put their right
hands in their pistol pockets.
boy, doan' yo put finger on me"'
cried the first in voice full of menace.
'An yo' Jess be mighty keerful dat yo'
doan rub again me-" replied the second
"I'ze got razor right yere in my
pocket!'
"So's ~
"An' I'll cut yo' in two at one slash ~
'Ill Jest make two pieces of yo' if yo'
dona' look out!'
They stood glaring at each other and
breathing hard for half minute, and then
the first muttered
"Next time l 20 up to see Miss Johnson
an find yo' prognosticatin' around dar'
sumbody's gwin to git hurted?"
AN next tine 90 up dar' an fine yo'
conglomeratin' in dat parlor dar will be
a tragedvn
"Shoo Reckon yo' can't skeer me wild
big wordsn'
can yo' can't skeer me, neither
'Ize gwin to precipitate long my way,
but yo Jess member de memorial warnin'
what has warned yo' about
'Shoo! PIE gwine to idealize round de
co ner, an if yo' foller me I'll make yo'
think de synonym has busted up an
knocked de concorporate all to squash
The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1895-10-26

The two most critical times in a woman's
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the ills of womankind are tRceable to
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complaint There are not three cases IN
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that Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescription will
not cure.