The herald., 1895-11-03

'owH. dituougn IL mas poPuiauon VI
about 70, 0C0 people. This impression was
caused undoubtedly by the lowness OF
nearly ell Of the buildings. They are
built in that way because of the frequent
earthq lakes. There are really two Qua
temala cities the old town-then the
capital Of the country-situated at the
foot of Volcano de Aqua, was DESTROYED in
IN 1877 by an earthquake. Although par
TALLY rebuilt the capital was removed 70
the present site, twenty-four miles north
esst Of the old town. The city is beauti
fully situated on an extensive table land
400 feet above sea level, and is nearly Ell
closed by mountain ranges. Most OF the
houses are plain with barred doors ana
windows. although few huildings-such
as the Grand opera house and the
churcnes-have some claim to aTchitec-
tural beauty. The churches are very
numerous and usually OF great sizs.
Saturday evening l atte nded band
concert IN one of the plakas. The air at
that height and in that climate was par
tioularly exhilarating, and with the
music OF the band-whioh was very good
and the sound OF the musical Spanish
language all about, the effect was most
enjoyable. As | awoke on sunday morn
ing | really imagined it was the Fourth
of July. as it used to be celebrated in
this Countrywide air was heavy with the
sound of ringing bells ana he discharge
of guns. l arose early, but as no break
fast was to be had until 10 O'clock, did
not go out until after that time. As
walked the streets the people struck me
as being particularly fine looking and
many of the women really beautiful. |
took long horse car ride in order to see
as much of the city as possible, as 1T
spread over considerable territory, owing
to the low architectural character of its
builidngs. entered several OF the
churches. kneeling on the floor were
the worshipers, mostly women-the
men being busy attending cock fights;
and other kindred amusements-dressed
in many colured sEawls which added
greatly to the brightness of the scene. In
the corner knelt the professional beggars,
wearing coffee sacks With rope around
the waist.
On a mill, overlooking the city, there
stands the old Carmen cathedral. This
church l understand was built by Corlez
over three hundred years ago.
Asi stood on the brow of the hill in
the dusk and looked down upon the ci:y
of a strange people at my feet. and at the
red glow where the sun had SGT beyond
the mountains, the bells rang out from
many towers, and impressed me with a
sense OF awe and solemnity not soon to
be forgotten.
Returning to the hotel passed through
the great plaza, which contains many
acres and is surrounded By churches and
shops. The city is equipped with every
thing modern, having street cars, electric
lights, telephones, telegraph, etc. A
large trade IS carried on in the agricul-
tural products OF the surrounding coun-
try and the people manufacture cotton
yarn, muslins and beautiful EN- broideries
extensively. Guatemala appears to be
hardly u safe place for the American
tourist, as they are not liked by the
;t,os and of than hava hnpn
thrown into prison and atrociously treat
ed without the slightest provocatiOn.
At 1870 the next morning We left for
San Jose, stopping at Euscitla for break
fast. the notable feature of which was the
delicious coffee served. We were told
that third grade coffee only was sent to
the United States, the first grade going
to England. and the second grade to
Europe. We were trifle late in arriving
at San Jose owing to our locomotive
having jumped the trace, but final >
reached there safely. Proceeding to
their pier We were lowered in the cage,
transferred in lighter, and hauled up
sailed at II p. m. for Oh m perico, arriv-
ing there on the following morning.
Champerico is q totally unlnteresting
place; a few houses and huts on the edge
of the water, surrounded by the forest
and dennse undergrowth; it is quiet,
sleepy little place. although great guam
titles of coffee are shipped from mere.
making it important on that account.
THE next morning at O'clock we
weighed anchor and sailed for Ocos, ar.
irving there two hours later. The descrip-
ton OF Chamnerico will answer for that
of Ocos, as in fact it might do for nearly
all the small coast villages OF Central
America. They are dead except during
the coffee season. Here we loaded coffee
during our entire stay. as We had done
at all the ports at which We stopped.
We enjoyed beautiful moonlight sail
that night. from 6: rs until p. M, when
we arrived at San Benito, the first OF the
Mexican ports. Gliding slowly into the
harbor, the whistle was blown, the echo
from the shore being its only answer.
Colored lights cast wierd llgnt across the
water, but not sign OF life was se0n or
heard on land. on the mighty roar OF the
breakers on the beach broke the silence.
Finally after much delay lights appeared
and soon several lighters put out from
the shore. There was no sleep that night
until a. M, when the turmoil OF lead
ing coffee and unloading freight had
ceased.
In the morning we were out of sight
of land and at AS a. m. passed the City
of sydney OF the Pacific Mail Steamship
company. Before morning We again
neared the shore, from which arose IA
VI may VIVA VIZ
smoke Of many fires. The sea at this
point was richly green, but soon after
noon the color changed to intense blue,
indicating great depth.
W. awoke early Sunday morning, the
26th. to find ourselves in what appeared
to be an inland lake. The basin was
small and surrounded by mountains and
hills, the water was deep and as smooth
as glass. This was the harbor OF Aca-
pulco. No sign of an entrance could be
seen; it seemed as if the ship must have
elm bed the hills which separated it from
the ocean. Nor did we see the entrance
of the harbur until we passed out OF 1t
upon our departure. There were two
brigs and vessel at anchor ana soon we
were surrounded by small boats filed
with MexIcans selling fruit, birds. cigars.
shells. skins. pottery, mats and it seemed
a little of everything else.
Acapulco IS an interesting little town,
built on the hillside. with many streets
unpleasantly steep for driving. AS it was
Sunday the inhabitants were dressed in
their best; the men wearing hugh wide
brimmed hats, and gaiiy colored blanx-
cts the women wore shawis of many
gorgeous hues. Everywhere were seen
roosters staked out ready for the sport OF
the day. Here we renewed our provi-
sions, taxing aboard eight or ten steers,
poultry and fruit. the fruit was very
cheap; bought bunch OF sixtytive line,
large bananas for 80 cents.
Acapulpo for m very mn h n II n %