Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1895-03-07
SPRING MODES.
Iailor-Made Gowns and Other Noy-
elites of the Season.

49,
Ta~1lor-goWns prepared for southern
and transcontinetal trips are of light
weight mixed cloths in great variety.
Tweeds, cheviots. and baucle fabrics.
rather coarSely woven. and in quaint
miXtureS-dots, dasheS, and indistinct
checkS-Sh0wing Il good deal of black
and white With brown or green. are
the materials most used.
The suits are in two or three pieces;
that is. skirt and coat. or skirt. coat,
and waistcOat. Skirts differ in no re-
/ Spact from Those in vogue during the
winter. Though there is considerable
variety in cut. the effect achieved is
the same in all: a close. trim appear
ance in front and en- the sides, fitting
perfectly around the hips. flaring at
the bottom, with the fullness in the
back held in two OF three plants. very
narrow at the waist line and broaden
ing out below.
+ Bright. changeable taffetaS are the
first choice for Innings: thus a mixed
cheviOt of black. white. and green is
lined with g~reen-and-rOse taffeta; a
tan-cOl0red c~overt-clOth, With Old-rose
taffeta: 4 brown. blue-Shot tweed, with
bluet. etc. Black serges and crepons
re lined with these bright, fancy
silks, which are now so inexpensive
that the fashion is not 50 eNtrtava-
giant as formerly. The binding should
be of v%elveteen, and it lis better to
buy the piece of goods and cut it at
least two inches wide on the bias. 1t
may form a cord on the bottom. filled
with candlewicking.-a much more PHI
/ able and graceful "stiffner'than rat
tans or wires.-and should always be
left to show like a piping below the
gown fabric; otherwise it affords no
protection.
Waistcoats are both grave and gay,
matching and contrasting. Those of
rich black mOire ard brOcaded satin
find a distinct place. and are in much
favor with fastidiOus wOmen who shun
anything conspicuous; but novelty
seekers admire a bright red waistcolt
with red on green or blue cloth. and
chamO;s-color with gray or black: and
tIASlC Il II-ttliN III tttFcCIil
cloths of silk and wool in brocaded
matelasSe effects that contrast NJ har-
m0nize with the gown. Coats are dOu-
BILE on single breasted. giving only a
glimpse of the linen OF cambria chem
iSette at the throat, or are cut away
to disclose q WaiStcOat, and faSten
with one or three buttons. The skirts
ono 1Ic1Ja1lyy a11F ON and ha va M SaV f1l-
ness. but not the umbrella flutes of
last season. There is great variety in
length; every oma will look most
chic in that which is most becoming.
The new cottons are also crimped
and creped in every imaginable way.
and there is much English embrOi-
derry ON them in the large open de
signs; thus. every fabric from velvet
to Clambery is Stilettoed, and the III
tumn novelties are to be carried
through next summer. Chambrey
robes in all favorite and popular colOrs
have rufies of batiste emb~Hidery put
ON with the English embroidery which
extends in Open. coarse pattern half-
way up the skirts, and still others have
all-over work which reaches to the
waist. There lis always some plain ma
terial to combine with tllem.
Organdies and plIUnetis show the
popular chine designs which are es-
p~ecially effective in those light and
delicate fabrics: and dotted Swiss in
all delicate, fade c0lors viii still he
worn. Ginghams T in fine stripes
and checks. dainty and attractive, but
showing few novelties. A new and de
sirable fabric. especially fer chiidren's
wear. is TeviOt suliting. a pliable cot
ton of soft finish and hight weight,
finer than Galatea, which comes in
stripes, checks, and dots, i'm pure and
delicate but Stlong shades of blue. law
ender, pale green, gray, and buff, with
white and browns.
For street wear there is a marked
and general preference for skirts of
moderate fullness, faring well at the
bottom and fitted trinity around the
waist. The very full skirts are so
unmanageable and so great a burden
to carry, that sensible wonderland
among THESE 4 numbered many very
smart ones in matters of dress-wil
have nome Of them for walking. None
but extremists, who adopt every latest
~conceit, Will wear at any time the
enormously full skirt which surrounds
the figure with folds and ripples; for
no matter how elegant the fabric or
how graceful the wOman she loses dig
nifty and ease of motion with such a
load of folds Topping around her
knees. For evening GOWNS, skirts of
eight and nine yards in circumference
can not only be tolerated but even
admired when the fullness is confined
to the sides and back; and some wo-
men wear them with extreme chic.
Skirts are fastened both over and
under the corsage, according to con-
venience and preference; if over, the
skirt-band is often covered with folds
of silk, velvet, or ribbon, with rosetteS
the back. If the corsage fastens out
side, hooks should be placed On the
inside belt to faSten it to the skirt.
This simple arrangement prevents all
slipping. For wool gowns. if a stiff
lining is preferred, ore is recon-
Inended; for if the wrong side be
placed next the goods, the mOire sur
face looks very we'll for the lining,
and thus dispenses with the weight
and inconvenience Of twO linings.-J
Demorest's Magazine. 4
yNAYHT ETTN