The morning call., 1895-02-03
NEW IDEAS FOR
SPRING COSTUMES.

George Egerton says "WhoIy beautiful
women are rare, but a woman who knows
how TO accentuate her good points and
tone down her defects by skilful blending
of colors and choice of material may pass
as a beauty all her days"
Now Mrs. Clairmonte might have added
that the would-be beauty must thoroughly
unders tand how always to adapt to her
style the prevailing mode, never for mere
fashions sake wearing an unbecoming
garment.
Our dressmakers are receiving but few
orders for calling costumes, their patrons
wisely awaiting the spring styles. How
ever, they are kept busy designing evening
dresses. One l saw was very chic, being
of a light shady-green silk brocaded in
brown, the figure being small in size, but
not spotty in effect
The skirt was five yards in width and
"set" beautifully. Its only trimming
consisted of ruche around the skirt of
the same material.
The waist was a simple one of the brOcade;
the large pulled sleeves were JUS, off the
shoulders. the CorSage apparently sup
ported by bands of sable fur passing from
the front over the bare shoulders and
meeting IN a Point at the back. A butter
fly bow of rare old lace decorated the front
of the waist and pleatings OF lace appeared
dullU the pulIS OI ILG SLEEVES. ne lllIIS
pale-green silk.
This costume will be worn before Lent
comes by young New York matrOn
famoas for her lovely shoulders and arms I
but 90 where YOU will YOU find the Juror
in evening gowns is white satin. One quite
lately imported from Paris was a beautiful
but very simple creation. The cOrsage was
decollete of petunia velvet with straps OF
white satin ribbon from bust to girdle,
where they finished in loops and ends
Between these two ribbons vest effect
was produced by narrow ribbons meeting
in the center with diamond-studded ro-
settles. Great sleeves of velvet with
epaulettes OF Point de Venise lace forming
drapery across the bust ending on the left
shoulder with two large chouX of white
satin ribbon. and-a third on the right side
of bodice.
The skirt was OF ivory white satin, very
rich, made with a demi-train, but ire
mendously full and flowing. The seams of
the front breadth were covered by Point
de Venise lace insertion. This toilet was,
of course, worn by a tall and stately woman.
for while speaking of her skirt, which was
quite eight yards in width, / would advise
that if you are short in statue, whether
plump or slender, not to have skirts more
than five yards in width, as au excessively
full skirt looks absurd on a small woman.
Brownish feather edging looks remarka-
bly, well on its own color cloth, especially
if there is a suspicion OF gold in the trim
ming, and white lace be introduced on the
bodice.
The popular way for trimming an even
ing skirt now is to have it edged with
feather or fur trimming and above, piece
of lace must be laid on. This is headed by
the finest and narrowest passementerie
made of gold thread. Often fine lace is
used for this purpose.
For elderly women there have arrived
for early spring wear quaint and pretty
straw bonnets called dutch bOnnets."
One | have seen was of fine black straw
trimmed with fiat bow of rich black rib
bon, and on each side was a small bunch
of exquisite violets. There were no strings.
These bonnets are to be worn very far off
the forehead, in fact, as far back as posi-
BILE.
Shop people are so fond when recon-
mending their goods of assuring one that
such and such a color is ''more worn than
anything else" Did they but know it.
many people find this by no means q
recommendation, and indeed rather than
buy what every one else has would chose
some color of which they could have almost
if not quite the monopoly.
Maybe colors are generally becoming
and are much worn. The newest fur boaS
have tails at both ends and no heads.
White cloth tailor-made dresses, worn
with different-colored velvet stocks, are
very swell.
Have you noticed how popular are the
blouses with overhanging fronts? They
seem to be worn by every one alike, and
according as they are arranged by the in
dividual wearer they suit either stout or
thin people. For instance, thin people can
wear the fronts very full and slightly
sisters can give up the waistband, which is
always a somewhat trying arrangement to
other than slight figure, and instead can
drop the pouch (for so it must be called)
of the bodice, below the waist line.