Birmingham age-herald., 1895-08-04

for twenty-four hours, then dist.ll to dryncss by the heat of q water bath. Digest the distillate (proGuet of distilla tion) on a fresh quantity of rose petals. and redistil as before, and repeat the whole process of maceration and distil d. tion third. fourth. fifth and sixth time, or oftener, the last time taking care to conduct the distilation rapidly, and 10 draw over one gallon, which is the sence. Delicately and delightfully fra grant. It improves by age. The product of the above receipt is very superior anl has a peculiar delicacy of flavor wh ch distinguishes 1t from those prepared from the otto
 Violets are SO difficult to extract the oil from that we get only a very slight percentage of the real flower odor in all the tons of violet waters and cxtrac annually manufactured. and orris r10t is masquera ding under all sorts of violet names.
 have on my desk in their Origin9l packages very pretty little bottles of Violctte de Parme, Russian violet, white violet and double violet. every last one of them being made of Florentine orris root One is a trfle intensified in od1r by the addition of very little otto of rose another I detect breath of musk in but I will stake my reputation on the statement that not one of these so- called violet odors ever has in the re- moteSt way come in contact Win the modern Bona parto emblem.
 Just try making violet perfume for yourself without violets and sec if am not quite justified in my assertion. Formula for Fictitious Extract of Violet.
 Take of Florentine orris root (coarsely powdered) one and half pounds, avoir- dupois rectfied spirit, one imperial quart proceed by percolation as to ob- tain one quart of essence, or by digestion for two weeks, followed by powerful pressure in tincture press The former is the best and most economical method.
 There is no such thing as heliotrope odor made from the flower. All so-called heliotrope extracts and waters are pro- duced from the vanilla bean as basis, with other ingredients, which give 1t the freshness of flower odor. Many of the most successful odors are, in the Ian guage of the perfumer, "bouquets, that is to say, made up by combining several odors. F'rangipanni for example. is made of half dozen odors, and the hand kerchief extract known as ''Peau d Es- pagne" is composed of Frangipanni anu Patchouly, half and half.
 An extract of pink, which was very fashionable odor a few years ago. was manufactured in the laboratory where l was a student. There was not a particle of real pink in 1.-the perfume was most wonderful imitation of the flower OQOf ana was 0due dS lolio"o.
 Extract of Pink.
 Extract of rose ounces; extract of orange flowers, 3 ounces; extract of aca- cia flowers. 8 ounces; extract of vanilla. 56 grammes; essence-of cloves, 10 drops.
 The greatest care should be taken in making bouquets, or you will waste lot of expensive materials and get only a most offensive result.
 Some odors. as my instructor once said to me, are like musical sounds-they har- lnonize and produce a beautiful com pound; others are antagonistic. and you can get nothing but discord from their combination.
 is sometimes apparently impossible to get any defined result until what Is called "a binder" is used; then the whole is caught, and the result will be, in the hands of a skillful artist, delicious in deed. My old instructor in Paris long ago explained all this to Us in a most delightful way. The Flower odors, he would say, are of an exquisitely delicate texture, like the finest paper of the leaves of dainty love story: each leaf repre- sents breath of perfume. They will all fly away or get confused or hopelessly entangled without a binding. So we bind the flower odors with a stronger sub- stance-musk, which is taken from the deer or ambergris which comes from the whale-just as the bookmaker holds the y, lost if left unfettered with leather or paper strong enough to hold all together.
 Ii is a curious fact that the inorganic world has never yet properly speaking, yielded a single perfume. The few, such as Musk, Ambergris and Civet, which are obtained from the animal kingdom, are not of themselves agreeable. They are extremely necessary in holding and sus- taining flower odors, but alone they are not at all to be compared to the perfume of any one of many flowers.
 Lavender water is delicate and essen- tially cleanly odor, delicious for the bath, from which it derives It's generic name Lavendula-and preferred by many to bay rum or Florida water. I give formu- las for all three to choose from.
 Lavendar Toilet Water.
 Take two ounces (averdupois) finest oil of lavender (Mitcham), essence of musk (fines) one imperial fluid ounce. essence-of ambergris (finesD, and oil of bergamot, (recenD, of each one-half ounce; rectified spirits (90 per cent, scent less), onehalf gallon; mix by agitation
 Florida Water
 Take two drachms each of the oils of lavender, bergamot and lemon; one drachm each of tincture of tumeric and oil of nero1i; thirty drops oil of balm and ten drops oil of rose; mix the above with two pints of deodorized alcohol.
 West India Bay Rum.
 Take two pounds of leaves of the myr- tus acris one-half pound cardamoms, two ounces cassia one and one-balf ounces cloves, and nine quarts rum. Dis till one and one-half gallons. Bay riim may be colored with tincture of saffron, or with mixture of equal parts caramel and tincture of tuMerio.
 The excessive use of perfumes is to be deprecated, l am aware that the an- clients used them in almost stifling quan- titles, but cannot think we'll bred wo- man will pronounce as well as announce