New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-07-14
. FRENCH BATHING RESORT.
.,r SULPHUR SPRINGS OF AIx-LEs-BAINs

CROWDS THAT GATHER THERE TO DRINK THE
WATERS AND TO BATTLE IN THE 'ENFER"
., 4. the month when Aix-les-Bains is crowded
-. utmost. People flock here from all parts OF
,ca from the cities and the provinces. to drink
m .unhur waters and battle in the "Enfer." II Is
"Mo..,h,e 10 find a vacant room In any OF the nu-
.rous hotels unless 1t has been engaged weeks In
.snce The special disease which these baths are
.r.nteed to cure Is rheumatism. and here one can
..dv every variety Of trouble which one would
~.,,de must afHct half mankind from the num-
". ~ natients who come yearly to follow the ron-
w.. =, the establishment. Any one looking on the
US" ,,,u find Aix-lcs Bains in the extreme western
-, ~ France. not far from the border line OF
s,,,erland in Upper Savoy. AK is in itself an at
.s.ctlve place. The surrounding country is full OF
.utv. the odd little town Is picturesque and fasci-
..,,ne: old wde-spreadng trees throw vacillat-
M .hade on the square and the seats around the
~.,r,ajn: stalwart ruins OF past age recall the
AIM. when the Romans bathed In these same sui
a.. waters before France could call itself nation.
N slight elevation on one side or the place dc
rsrc Romain' Is the well-equipped and extensive
h.,hne establishment. with every grade and degree
- h.,hs from the boiling seething "Enfer." belch-
loo ont su,phurous vapor in a subterranean room.
>, the mildest Of douches and the most attenuated
~ tepd baths The physicians In charge are thor
,rgh EXPERTS: they have studied the action OF the
eaters are familiar with every possible effect they
NAV produce on different constitutions. and give in
valuable advice and efficient help to the PATIENTS in
fact II would be not only inadvisable. but even dan
..-ous for any one to take the baths without con-
cutting one Of the attendant physicians. Even In
,her midest form the waters are powerful. as can
M seen by their effect we'll persons. People. OF
course differ very much in the degree Of their SEN
s,billty TO outward impressions. but have seen
oersons in good health made really Ill by simply In
,,,sb, hala uhiC
permeate the air OF the whole town. Some OF the
~. sensitive ones are at least made uncomfortable.
ana feel an nsuperable languor OF mind and body
and a depression OF spirits. the humor Of which
cannot escape us. even though We do feel solemn
and melancholy. These same qualities which pro-
duce such torpdity in we'll persons have an exactly
opposite effect on the sick. The poor rheumatcs who
eoue here in the last stages Of forornness feel at
.nca an exhIlaration and excitement which make
them the most cheerful and animated members OF
the population. They joke about their disabled
hands and stiff legs they laugh and tell good stories
and they have Unsuitable appetites; must also add
What is important. that they are offered every In
ducement to satisfy them. French cooking is tasted
n great advantage at Aix-les- Bans We were fort
rra,s vhen we first came to AK 10 fall In with
A,et,nctlv French house, the Hotel de rarc Ro-
main" and each year we have returned to our Old
quarters The hotel stands on the corner OF the
'Place de rarc Roman and narrow street where
the colors Of the stone and brick have been toned
down by time to dull soft gray; 1t faces the bath
ing establishment which is directly opposite. and
looks out on TO the pretty public garden on the
right of the square, This Is the Oldest and the high
est part OF AK The steep street which our hotel
stands leads down the slope OF the hill to the lower
portion Of the town. where modern houses and new
hotels line the streets with fresh colors and have
grown up to accommodate the ever-increasine num-
bers Of English and Americans who attracted by
he MI nd No "H0fels d'Angle-
terres with their luxurious accessories. but devoid
Of local color and picturesque environment.
NINETEENTH CENTURY SEDAN CHAIRS.
Our rooms not in the hotel itself, but in
neat. small house on the opposite side Of the street
facing the lower entrance Of the hotel. To go to
our meals we have only to step across the street
which Is so narrow that two carriages can scarcely
pass one another and which Is the thoroughfare
Of the bathers. who are transported to and from
the bath In sedan chairs carried by two stawart
'porteurs." These sedan chairs form large part
Of the local coloring of the place. From our four
low. rallied windows watch them passing
and repassng. noiselessly and mysteriously. like
agents In some intrigue Of the past The curtains
Of the sedan chairs drawn. but now and then.
as the wind blows them to one SIDE We can catch
glimpse Of a burlesque figure within-a figure
swathed In blankets formless and huge. head
covered with a nightcap and set on to man.
mouth bundle Of clothes. All idea of romance IL
ANONYMOUSLY barished by that one yelled view OF
what Is hidden behind the curtains. and we no
longer crave to probe the mystery OF the nine
tenth century sedan chair The aspect OF a
bather ready to be borne to the bath IL irresist-
IDLY comic. and II we wish to preserve our respect
for the individual me must not indulge In a second
look. Everything at Aix-les-Bans Is arranged for
the convenience of the invalids As rule. no early
breakfast Is allowed but We being Americans and
having healthy Anglo-Saxon appetites. are per-
mtted to have sent to our rooms. at o'clock In
the morning a tray Of tea and rolls. At O'Clock
the "porteurs' carry the sedan chair up the short
flight OF stairs to the bedroom; they then wrap
the patient in blankets. lift him into the chair.
even should he weigh go and bear him away to
the bath. At the Establishment Thermal he Is
given douche. either strong or mild. hot or warm
according to his needs. and then submits himself
patiently to vigorous massage Sometimes only
leg or an arm receives the douche and the treat
ment. At o'clock the patient Is brought back In
the same manner in which he was taken. and Is
lifted into his bed all swathed in blankets and
steaming with moisture; he sleeps for half an
hour IL he can and then dresses for the 10 o'clock
"dejeuner" the first meal Of the day. This break
fast is substantial and elaborate. consisting Of
almost as many the dinner. the only
difference between the two being that at breakfast
we have eggs for the first course instead OF SOUP
and no salad; there several entremets and two
solid dishes Wine II served as at the second table
Ghote, the win ordinaire" Of the country. de-
lcious light red wine Of which the patients are
allowed TO partake In reasonably large quantities
The meal usually ends with heaping dish Of the
fragrant small wild strawberries Of the mountains
Of Savoy picked at dawn by the children OF the
hills the '.petts Savoyards" and seeming TO bring
with them a Whit OF the fresh breezes from the
Alps.
A BELGIAN GIANT AND HIS TINY MOTHER.
After breakfast we sit In the garden Of the hotel
and talk with our fellow rders. all Of whom are
French Some of them come from Lyons. others
from Marseiiles few from Paris; the fashionable
Parisians are more apt TO frequent the larger and
handsomer hotels In the lower part OF AK There
Is Belgian giant who comes to our house every
year with his queer little wizened witch OF
mother They are q curious uncanny-looking
pair. They inspre one with a peculiar loathing
yet they fascinate ut the same time The son
assa.,.,,.. .A-e..~ sA.anna snell over every