Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-05-02

city lS built Tor summer lhcrr Is marble everywhere Unt!l yru i,rl vntnnlrCd. The >tr,vt> are rn v!drr than alloys, amazingly pirtur,>lur like rNrrythin4, continental, but ">vr~h:,luWrd ly the high palace walls, su t!:li every fIjnt,'et glram of sunlight is kri ..Nav. Priests inAr;i>tic shovel hats, .,;!n,i.'> in ra,;S of radiant color, gcndarmes with Ihr >,.ry rf hat in which Napoleon is always S,'cl. nuns ill white and scarlet, soldiers in hlur with cocks PlumcS waving from Lrlnlvt~-all moved in shadow.
 Perhaps 'yuu'Vr drran you dwclt in ll,lrhl, halls" and never cNprctCd tn real izr that tr,am. We'll you will if you go to Grmaa. Nou must. Palaces of every dr~criY:iun ar' there, and only palaces Some H-r hrlt i'll hrautitul order, with ia ,luu~ pirtU:,' galleries attIChcd-syallCric~ thlt uNrH were private CulltTti0ES and hold some If th,, .-rnlS of the world; some arc only s,rond h,'St; many a-r hotels now; Scur,'~ are C~,%.t tcnCmrntS housing vast nunthr'~ of happy gn lucky Italians who C,ar'> uI i!r easement lr,iE,~ and hang their Nr,.l. = washing UiIt of the front win t!n,v~
 The huI,l In which We went waS once a I,tllrr. ;.l:,i a beautiful one. Democracy in my ~,'ll ly, :ll down at one fell swOOp as l cl.ml,,'d these stately, shallow stepped >gIi~yyAv~ i:'l entered u valIltrd chamber unlike a-}; !l:!H:- I Ead ever hCforr seen. In >l..h a v,a I'll Il Hurgia could have poisoned an rIlr:ly in a most regal way without lusinE self r,~r,rt. The great, shaduwy lad in u cu";.,inru niche, reached by q series ,ti >t,.;.~ N.:I l lCOuntrrpart of tho one in which NihrA,n k popularly supposed to have ~l...,t,.,'rr>i lis inoffrnSiVr wife. I re a!izr,l then 1hat lo hr killed in a canopicd lad with a Iur,iis,val pillow had compcnsa- tiuuS ut is uwn The femme dc Chambre Il very urrtty Frrnchwoman, left us alono lS w, surveyed the place with smiling eyes until We nIlr q di>QUicting discovery in a hrIut!ful, antique mirror supported on H,'>:>-pUr faces Were If a grayiSh blue tint. our n,>~rS a dist rr>Sir- pink. and our hr'w> Ny,rr If mari'lr. like the halls. The hraUii.,i r, ,ln WAS Eut heated, and it was r;IiIlu.-. With the Inr"cury at 2f degrees. Wr >un!m, ned the femme tie Chamhrc and u-,lvr,+l a fir in our lN'~; Frrnch, and all nt u;.rc I}ut !yt I,,r uut dwell on that fire -;y Na~ d nM~ht Low down on the .,-,,u:ld iu i s!s.s,, , by 10 il sputtcrcd its iu ,::,!.,i>r N;t!r life away md loft us shiv- %rinA Then We s~,t down and Cnmmuned .s~ tn tl,, ~,';; If r.. ,Ilrwhn had built these t,tAuiilul palaces ;,i,rr the Vattrrn of cold l ~lv~rhul~,'~. Nu wander the old portraits 1 m inr Aul!~ shuWrd icy glancrS and sta 1ur~,lt:,. l:lr,'s of n chilling typr-thry had n,Nrc known the comfort ut big tirr and 1 , u'rl,NA i,l on a dark winter day.
 We left thr inrttvyIllHl 1lirkrrin=. and l donating extra cluLk~ went out Ia stT the | town. Th,. ca. ,r~ vi the hnu-,'> arr gray of | every vn..cv:> l',Ir shade. and in charming | harmony Ihr shutters Uf the windows arr i ilLr .,-,,-u Green iS d f.l>urlte color with 1 th,' tirl.n,,,. ,,I:d h right and left. uI | -tra-.lu. crurt> and >1airwaytd streets ! l.,-, ,~ir | -y.jml,r~ Q: ,c:,r'n umbrellas made trans l parent hE -.,iu If green shawi> and avn l Iu.,~, and t}r s-r,Nn flag "f Italy thr;iShtC 1 hv the NVIlU on many a hUuSVtOp.
 | Pedestrians and vehicles list the middl, | uf lly >tc,et ill ConiEnn aS the narruW | Valvlmrnt> s,arccly pr-lni; two abreast | This custom naturally makes every driver l 4 possible culprit for homicide, and thcil 1 warning, lu~ry shouts fill the air witt clanor. Anything moro cchoing than th' | yell uf an Italian c,nchman have yet l. l hear
 TI.r rain WAS puttcrinS the wind wa >i-lir--. and We Were thinking of home a! wrwrut into the Cour; yard of tho Brignol
 palace. s,tIiryvays of patched marble let to the yrra; s!lUwrrnIns where Genocsc la dies and cavaliers once tlir;rd-who knows | They did not discuss woman : rights. O
 that We Were surr for in those days the.
 wtrr content with so few they were scarce
 Iv worth sVraking of. Through tho great
 cold windows We had glimpscs of the roo
 gardens un ln;tlrurntcd wings wher
 Binnc;i~ nul l},atrIc,'S of the fifteenth cen tury took their tiny CunStitutiOnals In higl hrelcd NoutS. They never walked on tn I >tr,r-t~. and Cululnun men never gaZcd upol
 their faces, The uurluur from the fowl
 scarcely reached the green bowers near tn
 clouds where they S3It and embroidered c
 slrummrd the guitar They were cOntcn
 with very little. t'!g~" GcnocSc ladiC
 whose 'cuuntcrfcit rrpsrntmcnts'' locke
 down at Us from the shadows of big hat
 on Cllnv.lSrS worth their weight in gold.
 After few hours in this still beautiful
 now empty palace, l longod to gaze upo ; the present. owner. of course he held hig
 Ctlic' in Cicn,;l. lived in cOmfortabl house more suitable to modern taste an carried himself with majesty bctlttin
 uilr who has line of shadowy, arlstocrat
 ancestors in the near perspective. Alas fC tie llthos of real life! Tho palace, like [
 many others. lNlungs t0 tho govcrnmcn
 md the ia>t scion of great family mak' his living by teaching Italian in a LondC ! school
 The rest of tho day and two others we ! spent in Cathedrals, gravCyards, nosiT
 among old shops eating spaghetti al
 Gorgonzola ch'tasc, until we fairly wept
 the thought of the juicy beefsteaks we h; l sn c,lr,,lcssly eaten under the shadow of Il
 star spangled banner, in climbing inn
 mcrahle palace stairs and surveying sad
 innumcrable broken fountains and supel
 gardens gone to weed and waste.
 !, The CamposantO is considered one of t
 rarcst cemeteries in the world. It Is strange mixture of beauty, dignity and a
 surdity. There are some monuments ,, startling loveliness and strength marr
 by memorial offerings of artificial Howe }. and wreaths of black beads that Q red I
 dian would joyfully wear as girdl
 Some of the scenes commemorated ip ma