The herald., 1895-05-26

OF bad character may loso for the hotel
one of its best patrons, and may lnolrecu-
ly cause others to change their quarters,
as the man who leaves on account OF
disreputable egg is sure to tell about IL.
Not only that, but it has the power to
ruin scores of dollars worth, OF dainty
pastry, gallons of puddings and custards.
and generally do untold damage.
All the eggs not boiled to order are
broken separately by skilled assistants,
making the cost of handling them con-
siderable item. Two hundred and hfty
dozen is an average number used eacn
day in one of the large hotels. and at
busy times as much as five hundred dozen
have been handled. Breaking and ludg-
ing 5000 eggs in day is no small task.
as can easily be imagined Since the
wide prevalence of anglomania, the fash
ionable hostelries have had to use Eng
lsh mutton, 70 the almost complete exciu-
sion of the American product, although
immense quantities OF the latter are dally
exported to England. 1t is the proper
thing tc call for English mutton chops.
although it takes a skilled eplcure to dis
tinguish the delicate flavor OF the Eng.
lish article. The sheep there are kept
more carefully and the fattening process
is slower and more painstaking. 1T wouio
be all easy matter for the hotel man 10
furnish American mutton when Engiish
Is OrQereQ, as DOb OHc SQCob Oue Va iAAsS
would recognize the fraud, put the great
hotels are not conducted on these lines.
All the meats used are treated with art
istic care, and the ripening process re-
uuires the Judgment of an expert. When
purchased it is ticketed with the date Of
killing and the DRESSING and IS then
packed in a cold room of forty-five degrees
for two weeks. When removed 1t IS US,
ually covered with a thick mould and
the appearance of this mould to the eX-
pert is the keynote of its condition. 1t
must be ripe, Juicy and tender. and the
long storage usually brings out these re-
suits.
The real work of the kitchen falls to the
lot OF the chef. In all four OF the greatest
New York hotels the chef is an Alsatlan,
and his salary ranges from $4,000 to SlO. :
600 year. Financially he is greater
man than a congressman, and is almost
on par with prosperous bank presi-
dent. He has number of department
chefs under him, and each of them has a
small regiment OF helpers. The next IN
rank to the chef is the saucier, who boils
the meats and mixes the soups and sauces.
After him comes the rotisseur, who brolis
and roasts all the meats and fish. FOL
lowing the rotisseur is the entremeGler
who handles all the side dishes, such as
vegetables, Omelettes and whatever is
fried. The.garde a manger, next IN rank,
makes Jne SalauS anu preplIeo lho SoiA
meats. mhe boucher, who cuts the meats,
and the poissonier. who dresses the fish.
and the casserolier. who fills the import
ant post of head pot washer, complete
the executive force OF the chef.
With ell-organized staff of assistants
the main duty OF the chef comes jdsJ be-
fore meal time, when he makes round
of the entire kitchen, tasting every article
prepared He may suggest some slight
changes, like the adding of seasoning,
but usually everything has been done to
his satisfaction. The bakery force is in
dependent of the chef.
A description of the fittings of one OF
these kitchens would fill volume, and
were the technical terms used it would
be wholly unintclligible to The average
good housewife. the equipment of an
up to-date hotel kitchen costs close to
$780, 900, and the yearly expense OF keep
ing it in fine running order is equivalent
to the income OF a millionaire.