The representative. [volume] (St. Paul, Minn.) 1893-1901, 1895-09-11

SeInullUS Tie SOIt lett IdtS HOW nuCn
used in the rural districts of this country.
After the emancipation of the Neither
lands from the domination of Spain a hat
was placed on the coins and medals Of
the new republic as an emil lem Of liberty
Joseph H., the son Of the famous Maria
Theresa, was known among his subjects
as the Hated King" He never con-
sented to the formal ceremony of coron-
alton.
Furs are now cut from the skin by ma
chinery, special devices of wonderful in
genuity clipping the fur so close to the
skin as practically to shave the exterior
of the hide.
The fez, or red cap universally worn by
the Turks, is SO called because it was first
made at FeZZan in the Sahara The fez
is woollen or felt cap, red and without q
visor.
BY the use of the mechanical devices
now employed, it is said that a workman
can make the bodies for 400 hats a day.
BY the hand process he could prepare
only four or five.
1t Is curious fact that the best fur for
telling purposes comes from English rab-
bits which are bred near the sea. No
explanation has yet been made of this
singular circumstance.
Rabbit fur, when, used for hats, is
first carefully "plucked," that is the long
hairs are pulled out, Formerly this pro-
cess was done by hand now a machine
accOmplishes the same result
The best foreign fur for hat making is
produced in foreign climates, Russia,
Sweden, Norway and the Dominion of
Canada, together with Siberia, are said
to produce the best telling furs.
Winter furs, or furs of animals killed
In the winter, are better for telling pur-
poses and the manufacture of hats than
those of animals taken in summer The
-ur is thicker and much more compact
according to some authorities, the best
foreign silk used in hat making is the
French plush, which is said to have a fin
ish not attained by the plush makers in
any other country in Europe.
Inc best grades of beaver hats were
MADE with the fur from the under side
or the body and from the cheeks, the fur
from the back being employed only in
the manufacture Of the coarser grades. e
1t is said that for most telling purposes
the 1ur now used is mixed with cotton in
the proportion of from q quarter to half
ounce of cotton to four ounces Of the fur
The admixture is said to produce a better
felt
The earliest cap was probably COM
posed of the skin Of the head of an ami
ana ears protruding. This form of cap
has been depicted on many ancient mon
uments.
The pileus, head covering in use
among both Greeks and Romans. was a
close fitting wooden cap worn under the
helmet, and on the march kept on the
head while the helmet was removed and
slung at the girdle.
A turban has been proved by actual.
practice to be the best possible head
covering in hot countries. It is light,
and while it excludes the direct rays
and the heat Of the sun, permits the free
passage of air.
mats are much larger than they should
be: they are reduced by sizing them. with
giue and curious method of manipula-
ton by which their dimensions are re-
duced over One-third.
A hat is bounced" or smoothed by
means of a machine which polishes the
whole surface finely and smoothly with
emery paper. Formerly this process
was done by hand, the workmen using
pumice stone for that purpose
The brlmS OF silk hats are said to be
curled by hand, though in some factories
this process is now accomplished by ma
chlnery.I When the brim is hand-curled
the workman relies altogether on his eve
for the necessary curve.
The coins issued by Brutus and Cassius
after the murder of Caesar contained as
an emblem cap between two daggers.
an intimation that Rome had regained
Its freedom and reminder of the means
whereby liberty was rega1ne0.
The last operation of hat making is
trimming" 1t is usually done by girls
and consists of putting in the lining and
leather and putting on the band and
bindings; these operations being greatly
assisted by the use of the sewing ma
chine
The "cap of maintenance" is borne be-
fore English sovereigns at their corona
ton. 1t is made of ermine and has two
tails or pendants behind. Several digni-
taries in England and number of mobiles
have also the right to carry a CAP of
maintenance on state occasions
A green turban throughout all Islam
is a sign that the wearer is a descendant
of the Prophet. Many persons who have
in low life, and a traveller in CONSTANT
nople or Cairo may have his baggage
carried to his hotel by genuine descend
ant of the founder of Mohammedanisn
The fitting helmet, or helmet used at a
Joust or tournament, often bore as a crest
the figures of birds or animals, real or
imaginary and many instances are
known of the knight having the head
and bust of his lady carved in ivory or
silver and placing it on his helmet as
crest.
In medieval dramas the part of the
devil was always played in a pointed red
cap with two side points or tassels. So
cap that on one occasion in France an
actor refused to play and the entertain
ment was postponed because his devils
cap" had been stolen, and it was impos-
sible to play the part of Satan without a
proper headpiece. 3
In medieval times the hat of a ruler
was regarded with peculiar reverence.
something Of the respect shown for the
crown as an emblem being also enter
tanned for the hat. The story of William
Tell with Gessler's cap or hat on a pole
to be reverenced by the people furnishes
an illustration of an incident often seen
in the Middle Ages
A felt hat is now made by the pneumat-
ic process. A conical cup perforated
with holes is provided; the air beneath is
exhausted, while by a curious device the
felt is forced evenly to all parts of the
outside of the receiver, and, by the strong
pressure and rush of the air. is thrown
upon the frame and distributed, thus
forming the basis for the hat.
The Roman helmet the. average size
weighed about two pounds and was
thickly lined with felt, so that a severe
blow could be borne without serious in
convenience. These helmets were fntol-
erably hot, and were never worn during
the march or at any time save on parade,
sentry or guard duty, or in the immediate
presence of the enemy.
The HAT and Cap Riots" were political
difficulties in Sweden during the reign of
Adolph Frederick. They began in 1920
and ended about I'LL. The Hats or Cha
peaus were the French party, who
wished to nnodernize the country by
adopting the ideas, manners, customs.
political and military uSages of Southern
Europe; the Caps were the Russian
party, who desired a closer utilization
with the Muscovites.
The Libertines, religious BODY of
Holland, were so called from the fact that
they asserted that men could not do