The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-25

ana, lnQeeQ, Tor those who have discarded
corsets or grown overstout, the princess
style is gaining in favor.
At this same exhibition were "Gyp" and
Madame de Martel, so well known, by sight,
at least, by most visitors to Paris. Madame
was as is her custom, clad from head to
foot in spotless white, and in this case her
skirt and bodice was of white serge and
waterfall of white silk muslin, trimmed
with Valenciennes, draped the bust, quite
an unusual combination. Her hat was OF
Tuscan straw, real "capeline" trimmed
with clusters of real white lilacs, tied with
narrow ribbons of white MORE. The witty
authoress is especially fond of having her
herolneS wear such chapeaux.
Women who always have scrap of
dainty work lying near at hand, to pick up
while chatting, find real pleasure in sewing
narrow edging on ribbons. These must be
sewn on both sides and when completed
1t makes fashionable trimming Tor the
newest waists.
A going-away dress of a bride which l
liked was of blue silk crepon made in the
prevailing style, the waist being box
pleated and was relieved by deep round
yoke and epaulettes of guipure lace lad
over lighter shade of blue silk and edged
with an exquisite changeable galoon.
In London and Paris a move is being
made toward the substitution OF the high
evening bodice. which can be worn at DIN
ner; however, there is little probability
that such an innovation will be accepted
in England, although the waists which
some advocate are wonderfully chic, chif-
fon being the favorite fabric. One of white
ob, - 10
just little low in the throat, with very
small V of lace let in transparency, L
greatly admire; and it can be worn with
a skirt of any kind or color. Equally
pretty ones can be evolved from white
crepe de chine or soft white silk; but let
me warn you all the fancy waists, now
that we have our closets full of them. are
being frowned upon, and the prediction
has gone forth that fashion, most tickle OF
creatures, declares that whole dresses must
be worn if the wearer desires to be stylish.
Still | must describe just one more bodice,
as it halls from Paris direct. 1t is OF pale
pink silk crepe, with fichu of the same
over the shoulders, edged with a frlll
brought down into the waist to fall with
rounded ends on the hips, this fichu being
dragged up just little to overhang, to-
gether with the bodice, q belt embroidered
in Jet and gold. The sleeves reach only to
ated frills. 1t is well to remark that moth
ing is so becoming to the arms as the frill,
which is long at the back and very short
at the front. | am of course alluding to
the pretty, well-shaped arms, for those who
do not possess them should always let the
sleeve reach the wrist.
A stylish young woman here is wearing
an afternoon frock which is very smart.
=
full, with which is worn a bodice of the
new pink shade OF silk yelled with black
chiffon, accordion pleated, pouched at the
waist very slightly and strapped with jew
eled passementerie, changing from pinkto
pale brown. The collar and waistband are
of black satin; the sleeves are of the pink
silk covered with the chiffon.
The thread-like gold chains are popular,
sometimes being studded with turquoises
or with colored enamel, little gold heart
being worn to match this surrounded with
diamonds. The very long chains, especially
those with pearls set at intervals, still
adorn our bellies, and are looped up with
small diamond brooches. Bracelets rank
next in favor, and one style consists of
two chains joined together with diamond
letters, but this bracelet will never be
popular among our four hundred. An
other idea in better taste shows the chain
again, every link being set with jewels.
Turquoises are much used but pearls,
rubies, diamonds and emeralds, separately
or together, find favor in our sight. Never
have miniatures been in greater demand
than at present. They are usually sur
rounded with diamonds, although pearls
are used.
Sarah Bernhardt is described as wearing
one OF the most interesting collections Of
baubles on long thin gold chain. Among
the curios are all sorts of quaint and beau
tiful charms, crucifxes, precious stones
and brellocs. These she has picked up in
the different European and American
cities she has visited. Such chain must
be a real pleasure to possess, recalling as it
could many happy eventful hours, and /
read that one of the latest fads among New
York's fashionable women is to wear a
number of gold ornaments attached to the
long gold and jeweled watch chain, the
watch being worn in the belt, the purse,
smelling bottle, calendar, pencil, ETC.,
hanging below.
Last Monday evening an excellent
house greeted John Drew, and many
well-known society people were pres
ent. AS natural result it was a we'll
dressed audience. Such numbers of pretty
waists There was the pretty fair-haired
maiden in a waist of pale blue silk pow
dered with indistinct pink Dresden rose
buds, this waist being gracefully
draped with pink chiffon down the
front. In front of this young belle was the
dearest little brunette in waist of creamy
yellow silk, trimmed in quite the latest
way with black chiffon, edged with yellow
Valenciennes lace; her tiny black chiffon
bonnet had two Marechal Mel rosebuds at
each side. The effect was excellent. New
theater bonnets are conspicuous by their
absence, but one was remarked especially,
and it was beauty, but dreadfully trying
for those seated back of the wearer, the
large loops of white Dresden ribbon quite
obscuring the stage. | rejoice in be-
ing able to announce that the latest
bulletins state that theater bonnets are to
be tiny affairs this winter. But to return to
my subject. / also noticed that pink is
much the rage, for there was the plnky
pink waist, the salmon pink one, the rose
pink bodice, the Dresden one. and a very
stylish one in quite the new shade. Besides
many of the white, black and blue waists
were beautifed with collar and waist
band of this hue.
An occupant of one of the boxes looked
remarkably well in fluffy gown of NOUS