The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1895-03-27

grapes ana crcpons, Dr1Ii1anune ana GImI-
ties. Tho dlmities are white and plain,
printed in small figures on white and
light grounds. The brilliantines are n
limo OF soft self cOlored cottons, with
woven brocaded figures. The figures aro
small and dainty and always OF the color.
They look like the neat brocadcd tafTeta
now IN such vogue. / notice also some
very neat and artistic new designs in sat
Gems. Sateen was always favorite sum
mer material, and IL will please many TO
learn that It Is in vogue again and in
many varieties never before seen.
Crepons are legion, and this week we
are treated 70 several new weaves- There
IS the marcarsin, a sort OF morocco sur
face, a dozen new combinations Of illumi-
mated crepons, frog crepon and a calmer
hillow weaves, a Grape yarech, which is
beautifully embroidered, and lenos, which
looks like coarse linen threads This
comes plain, figured and brocaded. These
are all colored- The new black crepons
are plaid or In checked effect-peas, Rus
sian, chickens tracks and undine. Droll
names these French weavers sometimes
getl
The petits pois, or peas pattern, Is more
like close weave Of astrakhan cloth, which
we used to call niger head" than
crepon, but IL has n fine effect, particular
IL when employed in sleeves. One gown
Of very neat brocaded black silk had largo
leg o. mutton sleeves of this kind of Gre
pom, and the effect was particularly fine.
The sleeves were cut to droop rather than
20 stand up or out.
The change in sleeves IS very gradual,
but they, rs a general rule, droop fatty
rather than spread ont widely, as before
Still some very swell home costumes have
very wide sleeves. Though the sleeve
does not appear quite as large, it takes
quite as much material. s draped sleeve
called the capuchih is a fnvorite for soft
material. 1t is cut gigot shape as to the
bottom, but the top i made fully twice a
large and high as the sleeve itself when
finished. This - then drapcd into ca
puchin, hood shape, and is very graceful,
as indeed it ought 10 be, considering It's
cost. Other sleeves have deep cuffs or
narrow ones. sometimes quite plain and
other times quite ornamental. CUFFS are
welcome rolicf after the severe plain
ness of the usual gi- got sleeve.
remarked an odd sleeve among many.
This was OF heavy bayaderc strire,Lsattn.
and the whole sleeve was slightly wTinkiOd.
Above the sleeve were velvet caps head. i
and embroidered anu edged with curlcd
peacock 1ucs. Another sleeve belonging
to a handsome reception gown is worth
special mention. The long cIat sleeve
was snug all the way ~. Over it fell
plated fall Of double silk. and above that
there was a sort OF double balloon puff Of
tho same silk, which w-.% Cf peculiar
new weave, very soft u.d crCshable ana
altogether beautiful We may sum Up
sleeves by saying that every new gown
may hive sleeves TO itself different from
any others. must not forget 10 mention
that in many OF tie :-cwcst sleeves there
is bastcd piece OF very stiff wigan. This
Is so arranged that IT will slip down
around the arm when ones coat goes on,
and can, with one dcft touch be made
to stand out as stiifly as before.
Many Of the short spring Inantles have
sling sleeves, and these are lined with the