The record-union., 1895-10-08
TRAVELLING IN HOLLAND.
Charming Sights and Scenes in
The Hague.
Art Works of Rembrandt and Van
Dyck-The Quaint Peasantry
of Holland.

ESPECIAL Correspondence of RECORD-UNIoN.l
AMSTERDAM, August 25.-The first view
we had Of Holland was rather vague
and hazy one. After hot and fatIgulng
day of picture galleries and museums at
Antwerp, we took a train late in the
afternoon for The Hague. We were al
tired, and had just settled down in the
carriage with that happy, contented feel
ing that only comes to traveller from the
anticipation of uninterrupted repose.
Alas for our hopes. At small and
crowded station the door was hastily
opened and an officer shouted command
In Dutch, which awakened us to the fact
that the Custom-house on the border bad
been reached. In a moment pande-
monium itself seemed to reign. All the
passengers left the carriages. ladened
down with hand-luggage of various
kinds aud sizes, all the porters were in
demand and not soul understood the
English tongue. All remarks were con-
fined TO a German French patois, accom-
panied with frantic gesticulations The
sign language did its work we'll, in our
case at least, for after fifteen minutes OF
violent exercise on both sides our numer-
GUS luggage. consisting of three small
bags, two baskets, one hold-all, tea
basket and a roll of umbrellas. was all
passed. We returned in triumph and the
train soon rolled on.
After an hour or more The Hague was
reached, and three tired beings were most
Hospitality received at the NieuX DOelen
Hotel, and before we knew it our first
night wes but dream, for we were
awakened by the cooling of the doves out
side our windows.
Our home for the time being was a
most charming spot. It was an old house
built around court. the dining-room
being an ideal one for hot weather at least;
the long French windows opened directly
upon vlne-clad porch, While beyond
stretched an old-fashioned garden, with
the inviting small. round tables and
chairs.
AS none of Us felt in the mood for
sightseeing we determined TO seek first
the little fishing village of Schevenlngen.
and catch glimpse of the briny deep
once more. Alter consulting with our
''pOrtier" and what marvellous com bi-
nation these men are; they have half
dozen languages at their tongues end,
and the number OF questions they are
called upon to answer a day would be-
wilder less experienced persons), we
decided to 60 by the tram, and soon we
were on the top, bowling briskly along
the picturesque streets of The Hague.
The trees were IN their glory, and al our
way was delightfully."- cool and shady.
We passed by canals and ponds without
number. and saw SO many comfortable,
vine-cIad bones in which one could
fancy the fat, good-natured Dutch fathers
surrounded by all that delights the eye
and the inner man.
Soon we came TO wood, fascinating in
its effects OF light and shadow There we
had the first glimpse of the peasant girls
in their fresh, white caps, short gowns
and white saDOts. as they trOtted along
into town, while occasionally Jolly little
mllk-cart, with its two dogs, and the
bright, shiny brass cans, would pass US.
Then we fully realized we wers in a for
eign country, far away from the land Of
stars and stripes. Soon the scene
changed again, and we passed through
the fishing village and on to the beach,
whose beauties Mesdag has made world
famous. Scheveningen was then in the
hight OF the season, and the beach pre-
sented gay and festive appearance; doz-
OF the whooded chairs were
placed in all the sheltered nooks, whilo
beyond the bathing-machine were near
the waters edge.
As the North Sea looked most attrac-
tive that bright and sunshiny morning,
after hurried consultation we decided 10
trust ourselves to the care OF Old Nep-
tune and 10 the brawny peasant women
III DAhOy WIN 6bOOO hl6O-uGeD III Inc
water, waiting to render any needed as
slstance. The wagons were "a great i'm
provement upon those we had in Wales.
After our dip we Iunched at the Kur-
Haus, which faced the sea, and from
whose windows distant view Of q fleet
OF hshlng- boats could be seen, idly wait
Ing Tor breeze. This hotel seemed 10 be
the resort of many healthy-looking Ger
man and Dutch citizens, whose ills were
either purely Imaginary or else had been
speedily cured in the bracing salt air.
one OF our most delightful mornings
was spent in the gallery at The Hague
where many Rembrandps and Van
Dyck's are 10 be found, as well as the
cunning, little Dutch pictures OF Van
Steen and ' an Ostade, which once seer
can never be forgotten, and whose hu-
NOR is irresistible. Unfortunately the
pictures are hung in building not con-
structed for the purpose, so the light is
not what 1t should be, and many Deauli-
ful paintings suffer IN consequence. In
spite OF all, the gallery is certainly a gem,
for who, having once seen that wall de-
voted TO the chef d'OeHUreS of Rembrandt
can ever forget that rich, mellow, brown
ish light out OF which his faces seem TO
glow And, then, the portraits of Van
Dyck w nat thorough gentlemen all
his men are, down To their very finger
tips, in striking contrast with the fat rol-
licking Dutchmen OF his feIlow-arlistsi
We were much interested while in the
Hague TO see a collection OF modern
water-colors OF the Flemish school. and to
see now, even IN these days, the artists
cling 10 the scenes of their native land,
for, with but few exceptions. all the paint
ings portrayed bits of scenery or home
like sketches from Holland, the land of
their birth.
One afternoon We drove out to Delft,
the seat OF the famous pottery works.
Unfortunately. the factory was not open
TO the public that afternoon, but we had
ample opportunities TO see its beautiful
productions while III Amsterdam. The
drive there is charming, most Of the way
being cool and shady, right by the side of
the large canals. Many oTthe boats passed
us that afternoon, laden with market pro-
duce; some of them being drawn by a
patient, piodding horse, others by man
power only. But it is quite imnaterial
where one looks In this country, every
little view is 30 picturesque. Sometimes
II IS merely q luscious green pasture
where the tat and contented black-and-
white cows Craze; then, again, il il an
old windmill, whose arms are Tapping
lazily IN the breeze. Taking every point
into consideration, we thought the quaint
old town of Haarlem the most interesting
OF all. On the way we passed the famous
bulb farms, which in the spring must be
q mass of rainbow oolors and brought to