The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-05-26
AN OLD NEW FASHION.
THE PERPLEXING PROBLEM ron
MOTHERS.
ting and Bridal Gowns-The Cor
rect Materials-Ihe Becoming
COifeie tie Law.

Copyright. 1885, for The Tines.
The saying. "Out of college into mat
rimony." is not altogether out of date.
wthstandins aii the talk about the
new woman. the bachelor girl, etc. For,
in spite of the warnings of the divorce
courts, and the famous writer's of the
time. people have way OF plunging
down the path of destruction very much
as they did In the old days when there
weren't any new women. and the bachelor
girls were not accredited with any OF
the accomplishments which they now
boast Of.
To be sure. girls are growing more SEN
sible. and do not as "a rule buy their
wedding troussetus while they are LOOK
ing for a graduating dress. but there Is
many pcrplexed mother az this present
moment who has the task before her
OF choosing Marie's bridal gown Tor htr
June wedding az the same time That she
Is puzzlng her brains to think of an
original graduating dress for Elise. ON
tines. two important occasions of young
Woman's life however, when she wants
10 look her very best, she is so ham
pered by custom and consideration Tor
other peoples feelings, that she nnds
Il difficult to look even as wei as usual.
The bride IS forbidden any suspicion OF
decOllete. and is usually dressed 50 elabo-
rately as TO appear stiff, and seldom
looks as well as her bridesmaids, who are
permitted more liberty IN the choice OF
gowns. The graduate is always as
sumed TO be young and her dress must
therefore be simple. "a rule which is very
cousolng 10 the young woman who can
not afford 20 be elaborate, no matter
what the fashion may be, but 10 the
glrls with rich papas. II Is often very
irving 10 appear tn the garb prescribed by
custom. In many schools the authoii-
ties have made rules i'm regard W the
style of dress TO be worn, but IT has
usually been sufficient 10 appeal TO the
better feelings of the young women who
can afford fine gowns, TO forego them
for the sake of those who cannot.
II has grown TO be the custom for rich
girls TO appear IN severcly-simple gowns
when on the platform TO deliver their
graduating theses, or TO receive their d.
plomas and 10 have other dresses, as
elaborate as they see It, for The gradu-
ating balls. and other fetcs, which are
hold AT commencement time. Hence the
fashion is not so economical as it might
at first seem.
Il Is curious fact that whenever
woman is called pom 90 30 through any
importaut ordeal. she is always ROBBED
i'm white. AZ her birth. she Is wrapped
An white. swaddHng clothes. at her chris
fening her robe us white. when she grad
mites and when she marrlcs. she must
be dressed in white, and when she dies
her shroud is white.
For graduating gowns, the correct ma
toriala are Swiss. fine lawn, oreandie. or
hatistc The Swiss can he bought Tor
about 80 cents yard, lawn varies in
pric- from - 20 40 cents yard, and
latistc costs about forty cents. Many
gowns are made up wholly without trim
ming. and some are simply tucked. The
tucks look very Oainty when the gown
is Swiss. Batistcs are less severe when
d.. q fUr.I
perforated variety. An embroidered
front. with sleeves Of the same is a
pretty relief 10 an otherwise plain gown.
Fine Naloncienncs lace, SO much used
for trimming every sort of gown. is also
allowable on the graduating dress. For
the dainty stun really belongs 20 the
Young girls. anyway. and its use by old
or women is a sort OF usurpauon. \
white Swiss gown, with tiny frills of
eith2- white or yellow Nalenciennes. Is
an ltal graduating dress. but care must
be taken not 20 introduce too many frills.
lest the appearance of simplicity be de-
stroyed.
The really fashionable girl graduate
will wear plain Swiss gown, WITH per
faps. stock collar of tucks. and narrow
Nalcnc.Cnnes. with little points at the
sides. Her sleeves must hang demurc-
Is from the shoulder in godet folds. or
they may be tucked down for two or
three inches. and then swell out In
large puff which is again gathered or
tuckcd iu at or above The elbow. from
which the sleeve is made ueht-htiing 10
The wrist. Here the effect on the neck
may be- repeated by the addition of a
lace-trimmed cum y stock of satin
ribbon. with q bow at the back. is often
substituted FOR the lace collar. The style
Of waist does not vary much from the
blouse. Swiss blouse, with tiny tucks
down the front. Is very pretty. \ strip
~ insertion. with lace. IS often intro
Snced on the front of "a plain blouse.
Yokes are also very pretty. and by the
addition OF lace and insertion. are made
20 look less severe than the other styles
skirts are plain. ana are seldom stiff
ened. but hang out IN full. soft folds.
Thcv are from five and a half TO seven
wards IN width az the bottom, ana are
ga. either circular, or are gathered
around the belt. with most OF tho iuil-
ness pushed back
The Innings used arc pcrcaline glazed
ts..n Of a light variety. or the same
material as the gown. The last though
the most expensive rs yet the most de-
slrahlc. since Il does not look ike
lining at all and the sheer nimy effect
81 the outside is not destroyed by a Stiu
lining shining through II.
AS FOR shoes. the girl who objects 10
,reaklng the rule OF pure white which
nrevalls from head to foot. may wear
s.'hite satin slippers or oxford ties OF
White kid or suede. with white silk stock
,ncs Gloves are best I'm their little case
M such times. but II custom requires u
- correct thing IS a glace Kid. with
huttons-three OF them. Suede
ri,,<.,,e. are no longer in fashion for this
,"r,,ose and will be very little worn for
Inv occasion. This 10 why they ar. ."