St. Paul daily globe., 1895-12-26

white veil; there Is a necktie that
escapes from beneath a turned down
collar with touch OF the negligee
In the f1uttering ends, and it is in
gay color, either striped or plaid;
the stockings are of bright bars or
Scotch plaid, and make color focus
to the colorless dress; low shoes of
brown leather leave the ankle free.
This dress, as 1t fulfilfs the conditions
demanded for swift movement through
space and rapid exercise of the legs
appears incontestably esthetic; as it
Is nodded admirably to the woman, it
would seem without dispute to be femi-
nine
The Parisians saw in the problem of
cullne dress, but simply a problem OF
bicycle dress, not an adaptation of mas
clothing two legs for rapid movement.
The conditions We're new, but the
women were always women.
Modesty in dress varies with eli
mates, but it can nowhere by rights be
synonym for the feminine. Rather
the terms are antithetic; and if femi-
ninity must be disguised for the sake
of modesty to the degree of incen-
veniencing a legitimate sport, it does
not appear that we have yet attained
the summit of civilization.
But instead of being true modesty,
is not this reluctance to adopt use
full dress to be set down to the sex
egotiSm that prevails in communities
where art is not greatly developed, and
has not yet influenced the feelings or
the needs of the people,
1t is then because we are still educa-
tionally defective that we see in the
knickerbockers only masculine trav-
estes and translate this idea into the
actual dress.
The esthetic merits of the fashion
able Paris bicycle dress over the dress
with skirt are to be deduced in part
from the outlines it makes, and the re-
lation of these outlines to the wheel.
The point of greatest Importance in
any object, esthetically, is the center
of its action, and the greatest pleasure
TO be derived from all object in motion
is to see the movement that propels.
This point for the bicycle is under the
feet of the rider.
Here, then, at the feet is the starting
point to which all else is subordinate,
and it follows that the space about the
feet should be kept clear of all drap-
cry, that the movement may be per-
fectly seen.
This done 1t is the legitimate work
of art to Increase the interest at this
point, as by color with light shoes, or
with plaid stockings that focus the
color of the dress.
The next point of Importance in the
oh &c ba
ter of support of the rider. This sup
port lies between the seat and the
handles. The seat should appear to
uphold the weight, and to this end the
width and apparent bulk of the drap-
cries, as shown by the outlines, should
lie above the line of support.
Thus, also an effect of greater light
ness and adequacy will be given to the
machine. Now, skirt forms in out
line a pyramid with apex above the
seat and width near the ground, and
suggests dragging weight, instead of
sustained lightness.
It also cuts straight across the center
of action at the feet, hiding the move
ment, and destroying the principal
beauty of the machine. The trousers,
on the other hand; are in perfect ac-
cord with the esthetic demands. They
leave the mass of the draperies above
the seat, and the ankles in free play
to explain the action below.
The dress is rough wool all the year
round, and for the most part remains
a light brown, but fine ladies may
course their chateau grounds in more
luxurious stuff and coIors than taste
would wear on the public domain.
Rich dress is of dark green or blue
cloth, with leather appliques. For the
bodice favor lies between the figaro
and blouse. For wear with blouse
the latest chic is a belt of elastic,
fastened with straps of leather, in
width from three to six inches, and
preferably white or pale gray.
1t is comfortable, as it gives with the
wearer's movements; also it's contrast
to the darker costume gives char
acter to the blouse dress. An occa-
sional costume has the figaro pro-
longed into a short basque of some
three or four inches in depth, but these
are inferior in both beauty and popu-
larity to the other two mentioned
forms.
Stockings are of plaid or other pat
tern that serves to break up the long
lines, or else they are Of brown or
black.