The herald., 1895-10-23


tnese places can scarcely be wondered at.
l have a special prejudice against the
sewage of Cannes. 1t was in one of its
excellent hotels that lorg lay ill. very
near Charonn's ferry, smelling the smells
in that long, dull October. Don't 60 to
the Riviera in October 1t is the rainy
season; the air is heavy muggy, as the
English say, and nothing has commenced.
An invalid can gain nothing by being
there then, and no one elsa but gambler
at Monte Carlo could find life tolerable.
Hotel keepers. Wallets de place, walters,
thrust themselves ON the attention, in
groups and singly here and in the Dim
vista, prepared for the tourist and the
season. but no tourist and no season.
what is one among so many?
NICE ~ indeed gay place, or was IN
'6S. Here one meets the reckless and
the rich of all Europe seeking winter
quarters. 1t is only few minutes by rail
from Monte Carlo (Monaco). European
home social conventions are relaxed and
one meets prince and merchant in the
same ball or club.
The beautiful Madam Rataygi, nee Bona
parte dazzled Nice with both jewels and
looks. She was then young, of course, as
second youth, and now the papers say
she is having still a fresh affair de
coeur."
One sees all scrrs of life. l rem EN- Der
the dinner of a Russian princess at which
each OF us rectived a costly jewel. and
the arrest the same evening of an adven-
turer who had been entertaining the
toMn on the credit OF his supposed vast
fortune. Mobiles blue with their descent
from the most orthodox bandits are
cheek by jowl with the sorriest speci-
mems of the social parasite. The Amerl-
can visitors take up with either class
with about equal frequency. The mobiles
Of hol IN, Ia1 q
sound reason for being. They were a VI
tai organ of society. Now they are not,
and like any unused organ must go into
an atrophv ana decay. Thus the rag. tag
and bobtail of feudality does and must
proportionately increase uLtl knights
and ladis are become only memory.
There will be, though, a nobility of
heart and brains to run the earth, and
some few of the titled ones OF today may
be in it.
Through tunnel or two and short
run lands us at Monte Carlo, lovely
place on the side of the steep mountain,
planted and terraced into garden. In
front is the blue Mediterranean and the
old town of Monaco covering small
rocky peninsula. The prince had one
soldier and a number of antique oannons
inscribed with the motto in Latin The
last resort of kires.'
The rule in Monaco is different from
that in Louisiana. In our sister state the
preamble of the lottery law sets forth the
advantage of keeping the gamblers mon
ey at home, therefore TO make home
market, as it were, they ESTABLISH home
industry and protect 1T from havana and
other lottery marauders. In Monaco,
however, there is one strict rule. no citi
zen is allowed to enter the gaming rooms
and the home market is protected against
the home monopoly.
Rnottiful this nlaca is hOth natural
ly and by mans work, one has only to go
into the roulette to see this ugIiest thing
in tle world-the human passion for IN
earned gain made visible in expression.
There are two things that the philos.
opher may note at Monaco more easily
than in most places-hrst, the thlnness
IF the veneer of ou. civilized conven
tiona, and. second, their toughness, elias
ticity and vitality.
Though man is so near barbarism, he
is still so far away from 1t. and that, too,
not only in rules and conventions, out
in instincts that have grown into his
life.
Monaco has its last men and fast
women; its habitual gam blers for excite
ment, its dabblers on tie edge, its
waders and those who plunge into the
depths where vast fortune or financial
ruin and suicide indiffeiently await
them.
Inc games dG MOudCO run HeaTlV COI-
stantly. They are Roulette and Rouge
ct Noire. Besides the regular game in
each case a number of ARA gements are
made for side bet, On the table, based Nn
the vagaries Of the oall or card. The
business is conducted fairly. Outside of
the large returns possible for small
chance in roulette, the bets are dven as
to each one between the bank and the
gambler. The bank gains through the
practically universal increase OF winners
stakes and decrease of losers. Thus
man winning ten times has tendency
to increase his bets until, when he loses
thr eleventh time he will have larger
stake 10 lose than at the fifth. and so,
contrariwise, the loser of ten bets will
have smaller stake on his winning
eleventh than he had on his first, and
so, while the laws in chance on betting
on color would give the bank and the
gambler the same numher of successes in
a given time, this tendency TO increase
bets when winning and decrease them
when losing, makes the gambler win
less and lose more than the bank. Some
times great winnings are made at Mon
AGO, but it is rare that a winner can
leave off gambling or that he ever even
tuaily gets away with his gain.
Mentone, the chin, has long been ad-
yertised to the world By the writings of
DR.. Bennett, who there regained his
winters. The income of Mentone comes
about in equal parts from tourists and
from lemons. Both are terraced up the
hllisides and both do very well. As Dr..
Bennett pointed out long ago. the diff
Guilty of the sewage question has grown
with the prosperity of this, as Of all the
Riviera places. l am inclined to agree
with DR.. Bennett that Mentone is the
most sheltered of the Riviera resorts.
Certainly it is the lemon producer of the
shore, and thus must be less subject to
climatic extremes than those places
where this delicate tree does not sue
ceed. Burdlghera, beyond. has an in
terest peculiar to it. from its monopoly
in FURNISHING palm leaves to Rome for
the Easter festivities. San Reno is in
the finest and most important health re-
sort of the Riviera in Italy. 1t is quiet
place, somewhat affected bv Germans
since the late Emperor Frederick spent so
much time tnero. In my time Alassio
was the only other station with modern
accommodations before reaching Genoa
the superb. Here ends the "Riviera di
ponente."