The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-09-22

mere cOlOrlng, not unlike ClOlSOnne enamel
are much IN vogue; however | advise you
to avoid the steel, there are SO many cheap
limitations.
Nasturtium shades of the richest dark
yellow are much sought after and are
SONS, in poppies and in velvets for trim
mings.
Ranunculus is a purplish shade, is quite
new, and especially effective in velvets for
trimming.
Crimped silk peoples are fashionable, as
are also velvet flowers when of great size,
nothing being considered correct smaller
than full-blown American Beauty rose.
For tall, slender women the new varle-
ties of chapeaux are all very well, as most
are large, much trimmed affairs, but the
short plump woman without a proper al
lowance of neck should carefully AVOID
them all. To this style the black velvet
hat of medium size, moderately trimmed
is most suitable, and, OF course, touch of
color can be introduced by means of few
velvet flowers.
1t really pays in the end to procure
Paris hat or bonnet, as from first to last IL
will give more satisfaction and can be
worn for two seasons quite easily. Only
be sure it is imported. Our best known
milliners are thoroughly to be depended
on, but some millinery freaks exhibited
here and labeled with well-known names
certainly never saw either Paris or New
York; but it is early really to purchase,
and many who do will, about this time
next month, wish they had waited, as the
first styles exhibited in early autumn are
usually modified later on.
East, | hear, lace is being much used as a
trimming for hats at present, not only in
black and white, but also in the yellow
Valenciennes. However, this fancy viii
not last. as lace is not appropriate for
winter wear.
Leaves of chenille are shown in lovely
shades, and wings spangled gayly are
very fashionable, as are also the crown
pieces of velvet embroidered with spangles
in the richest cashmere colors. or else
brighter tints are used in delicate French
shading. Crowns are seen of Jet spangles
and chenille in quaint scroll designs.
will be most favored. Paris bonnets are
stringless, but many New York miIliners
use narrow velvet ribbon, satin faced.
Thus far | have seen none that were
strikingly pretty, so as guide to those
looking for the most correct style quote:
among the new models are two bonnets
that express the perfect taste of stylish
i
milliner mas shorn them of the eccentrici-
ties sometimes seen IN imported hats.
One is a dark bonnet, for day wear; the
other is light, and for the theater or after
noon receptions. The first is of black
braided chenille, the bonnet a round
crown clinging to the head, edged with
bias black velvet draped in folds. Two
small strass buckles divide the velvet into
a front puff before it goes back to broader
puffs on the sides Two black quilts are
erect in front. At the back the velvet
drops down in two loops close against the
hair. Color is added by large rosette on
each side of capucine or dark orange
coIored velvet, yelled with an outer ruffie
of black mousseline de sole. These rosettes
are made in the old-time fashion, now re-
vived, of bias velvet taken double and
drawn in the center in row after row.
Huge aigrettes, ten inches in height and
portionately bushy, adorn even small
bonnets, and are chic, coming as they do
not only in black and white, but also in
beau tifuIly blended colors.
In Vogue it is stated that in Paris ladies
are now walking about in hats that would
be guyed in the streets of New York. a
very pretty woman who has Just returned
has one and it is as high as mans hat
and the brim goes out beyond the shout
derS. one can scarcely DelleSS SuCn a
statement and certainly no gentlewoman
in this country would don such a mon
strosity.
Men have always approved of the tailor
made gowns, so as natural result it
novelty is shown in the cut and in the
cloths used. One made of fine face cloth
of the new portwine shade with white
facings is excellent. The white waistcoast
is donble-breasted and has large buttons
The Jacket has short full basque and no
fastenings, small pockets on either side,
with laid down collar OF new shape,
sleeves e,sy These are SO diminished
at the wrist that they fit 1t
closely, fastening with some four buttons
outside the arm, and two rows OF white
rouleau; however, black is really preferred
by men for such costumes, as many oe-
clare women always look best IN plack
when in public, and they are correct, as IL
should be the aim of every gentiewomaE
to avoid being conspicuous. AT 81. refers
burg Russian will refuse to take laoy
who is not dressed in black for prone
made between the acts at the opera-nouse,
and will leave her to sit in the opera-DoX
while he escorts another OF the party,
attired in black in preference, solely on
account of her being dressed correctly,
accOTQlug W MS lucas uOHSNCIs VIZ ."
who consider that black should be worn IN
all public places where to be conspicuous
would be bad form, will not tolerate 1t Tor
eyery-d day wear at home.
White is approved by all men, painters
and poets regarding it as the ideal attire
for women. There is such an air of SIM
plicity about it and it is so universally be-
coming. 1t is the proper thing for the
lining of all varieties of outside garments,
whether tailor-made or otherwise, and
plain satin is preferred to the figured de.
signs. Black satin will also be much used
'of the best quality for this purpose.
A fashionable girl has a dainty gown for
wearing at home in the evening. 1t |
s of pale blue in light quality of wool