The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-11-24
APPLIES TO BOTH.
SINCE THE ADyENT. or THE NEW
WOMAN md BIOOMERS.
Distinction Between the Well-Dressed
Feminine swell and the Other--shei Is
Never Loud-What She Wears.


TTVTITTT
ball field II used to be exclusively mas
culine gender hut since the advent Of
new women and boomers IT has come to
lie applied to both sexes alike.
Those who have ever attended one OF
the great THANKSGIVING games have seen
the "swells' ana heard them howl-some
say see them howl. referring to their gor
geous attire, but the weil-dressed fem
mime swell. however brilliantly gowned.
IL never loud That is just the dstinc-
tion between elegance and It's tasteless
imitation
There are few annual events In New
York which constitute a sort Of social
almanac by which all swelldom regulates
It's wardrobe and its pert grnatins The
smart set usually gets back from Newport
in time 10 get some stunning gowns for
the Horse Show
The athletic set and those who have
college connections are sure 10 be on
hand for the Thanksgiving games. This
Yer the interest has been divided be-
tween the two games Whether to see
Harvard and Pennsylvania at Cambridge
or Yale and Princeton on the Manhatton
Field, is a question which finally resolves
itself into one of locality, biased, OF
course. by college aflnties. .+rlor
New Workers. see the Yale and Prince
ton fieHt. and though the superficial OBJ
server might imagine that such an event
has little bearing upon fashion. IL is the
very climax Of the autumn dress parade.
and the turning point TO straight winter
styles There is no longer any indecision
as 10 which mode will prevail Winter
coats and fIrs are out I'm fun force. Stun
ming gowns, interlined 10 make them
warm enough without wraps. have fur
trimmings that give them a wintry look
one OF the most striking costumes
brought out for the event OF the season
has striped skirt with bands Of fur
trimming running up each side Of the
front. The iacket-shaped bodice is edged
with fur and tho whole effect is one of
jauntiness and daring.
The close-htting fur Jacket that was
so popular last season still holds its
place and IS a formidable rival Of the
hrx coat. 1no ioX coat Is decidedly
American. There is nothing French
about al. parisians VIII have nothing
that does not define the outlines OF the
figure. and this American garment has
loose front. There is one exception to
this French law against non-ittng coats;
II is the wrap which comes so near TO
being a cape. being pleated TO a yoke.
and allowed 10 hang loose both back and
front. Very many Of the imported wraps
are made in this style. and they have
found considerable favor. A theatre wrap
made in this style rs especially desirable
as II does not crush the gown beneath IL.
Such wrap. with sleeves that hook
together after the arms have been slip
t~g through. us ideal. The one wrap
w 4ch / have seen Of this description
)x4d Immense shocked velvet sleeves
without any seams. ON the under side
of the arm where one looks for a seam
the sleee hooked together just below
the elbow. The coat hung loose from
the neck 10 a point several inches be-
low n. and 4f.orIfan nlntf-
ed.
coat collars and neck trimmings OF
all kinds are very high. IL is a good
seastL for mumEs and toothache
among the fashonables. for by turning
hp a fun collar TO its fun height. the
head and face can be almost complete
~ concealed. thus assuring all the
warmth of cotton batting and fiannnel
salt-bags
Collars that are not intended for pro-
lection against the elements are almost
as high as outdoor ncckwear. Box
pleattd neck ruches frame pretty face
in or out OF doors. Tor il is not cut of
place 10 combine lace and fur on any
sort OF gown.
The fur boa with its bunch OF violets
and its fan of lace just under the chin
is once more in evidence.
This seasons NUTS are the most con-
spicuous of the fur goods. however and
IL is siraining a point 20 call them fur.
100. a nun used TO consist of a ten
inch band OF fur with satin lining
and little wdding between. Now
nobody knows what a muff is going 10
be until be sees 10. 1t is as indefinite
AS a bonnet u may be tiny affair
lust big enough FOR one hand, or IT may
be- a conglomoration of velvet bows.
zach large enough TO accommodate a
hand and a little band OF fur peeping
out between them here ami there. \
brown velvet muff with loops and ends
standing out in ali directions is fastened
into some sort Of resemblance 10 the
cylindrical nun OF other days by means
81 erinine straps
Some muffs add flowers and lace 10 the
collection OF voluminous bows. One that
was made Of plum-colored velvet and
mink fur had bunch of rich rcd pop
pies AZ It's top.
Green velvet and chinchilla fur IS a
favorite combination in NUTS
Fur sets are sold consisting Of FUR
tirban. a collarette and mum. All have
little punches or frills Of lace to soften
the effect Any one who has old sets
Of furs can make one OF the new mufs
with very little difficulty.
| Dress materials for winter have been
\tho all-absorbng question for the past
week or two. The favorites are boucles.
FhcVlOts. mOhdlr ana Gamers hdlr. IN
the order mentioned. Smooth materials
Ere IN the background. though the man
AZ the broadcloth counter assures you TO
the contrary.
The bright colors veiled with close
black dots are I'm demand. and boucles
" all kinds are seen everywhere.
Mohair rs a favorite becausel II lends
itself so gracefully to the requirements
u the flaring. much-iuted skirt. 1t has
A stiffness all its own. which added to
its light weight makes IL an especially
desirable material for this seasons
garment.
A navy blue mohair with a polka dot
pattern in the same hue looked gorge
Gus and at the same time somewhat
military with its band OF gold braid
trimming UP the sides OF the skirt. This
decoration promises 10 be extremely
fashionable The gold braid comes IN
several widths. The rarrowest is ore
inch wide, and some OF the most stylish
gowns are finished with a belt OF II.
Another style is two inches wide ana
Il II sixty cents yard.
4 four-inoh gold braid sells Tor t9'sS