The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1895-03-31
MODE IN C0IFFURES.
WHAT TIE PRACTICAL CHAMBERS
SAY.
sorcsry of Well Arranged Locks-Thrse
Striking Things About the New
Spring Dresses.
Copyright for The Times, 1867

1tAiuo anu Atl cAs.t'io anu tDuSlia
pf the Hellenic race were in the habit
Of arranging their CoiTUes without
the aid of nairpins. This, Of course,
was because the poor things had no
such COnycnencCs, for the woman who
could not appreciate the value and va
rfed uses OF the harpin would be a
very uufeminine creature For lack OF
these useful accessories the simple Gre
clan maidcns were sadly limited I'm
their opportunities FOR variety and
originality OF coiffure. II was all the
same Psyche knot-which by the way,
s. a misuomer, for Psyche no more de-
serves the credit of originating that
couture than does our own Pocahon-
tas for example PocahOntas was wise
and seldom did her stiff black locks
at all but when she did, she tied them
81 "a knot which Psyche could not have
improved upon, and the only difference
was that hers was black and Psyche's
was gold But neither of these print
tive females knew the joys Of the mod
orn maid, whose chief charm is in the
arrangement OF he. trcsses. Beauty
draws us by a single hair Is all very
well for poetry, but practical charlners
know that the seductive scIcery Of Ju-
diciously arranged locks in n decidedly
plural number is what the poet really
meant 20 refer 20.
The appliances used in ths construc-
tion of the couture change with the
fashions. but the number Of them at
any stated time would I'll a good
sized carpenters tool box. The de-
CisiOn is almost sure 10 be eventually
in favor of the affirmative, so that the
posscssors of curling tongs and waving
irons had better not be too hasty about
putting them aside. The ulra-iashion-
able woman OF the moment is decidedly
dat-headed. with her hair parted and
pasted with shell combs, and her Dutch
bonnet set back over the knot at the
back of her head. but this style cannot
continue when the summer sun begins
20 get in his heavy work, and 1t VIII
not be long before women VIII ne max
ing artificial bumps Of reverence ana
self-esteem in the place where the
Uhrenologist says they ought to De.
Nothing but the curling iron VIII give
the hair the fluffy look which the
French women have always cultivated.
The French women, by the way, nave
never fancied the style OF parting the
hair The late craze for II ls ehJlrely
English and American, and IT'S popu-
laritv on this side the water has had
no effect upon our Gallo friends. Inc
secret Of this prejudice lies I'M the TACT
that the part in the middle Of the fore
head undoubtedly makes one look Oder
and If there Is anything which the Ilehth
woman breads as she would a plague IT.
a. Inc appearanco of age. She Will rouge
nor cheeks and dye her hair AT lhe Ii9h
of her life rather than admit heI age
and quietly accept the SITUATION do ''o
1,Dglisb woman does But she is gwen 10
slds and for a while the English con-
= re plcased her but II is only fad'
t,ud ~ win probably not outlast the SUM
mcr.
rsrr.oro poine, 10 give a receipt for a
,~ott,- coifure. / should say: Take
email hcad-small, because ii can pt '"-
lareCd # desired, or allowed TO ic'"''
i;s normal size when small hedu7 "lc
f,ebionable Then wave the hair all over
the head and knot it up IN the spol Una.
IS most becoming. II one Is not u'eSS''
,y,th "a small head. fl is lest not To wave
The hair all over. II there is snort hall
nj half length TO be disposed of, IL sEoull
he combed out separate from the loHS
hair waved and tucked under the kHo,S
at the back This prevents nSlF tA"S
from standing out in the most coiiSP1,
mons mart of the knot. and gives d SOFT
or effect around the face, az the same
time admitting of very ushI Irih '"I9'
of the back hair This short halr may 'e
parted in the middle or at the S''N' w
combed straight back.
The French coiffoUrs have compromised
win MS bv parting the hair on the slde
,vhen IL lis short, and then waving IL lh
Zig fuzzy waves which DO away WIN
any manuish look IL might olher"lse
nave French women cling 10 the one
solitary little curl IN the middle OF 'he
forehead only one style IoHoNS ylo
English. and in this the hair Is so HuHl
that tle mart is hardly visible. Another
rt of her anatomy which gives the
bremen woman much tr, dble Is the ear
she objects 10 ears. and she covers ihem
nm whenever she can. The pres ent modes
are of ritat assistance to her Ia the at
faiumcnt Of this object, for 10 ten the
truth. ears are not fashionable anywhere
For elaborate head-drCss The pun IS the
correct thing, especially for matrons ana
tho more double bow-knots one can Tie III
ones hair at the crown Of the head the
better
All this. aud much more Is true OF coll
fures but after 10 IS said there IL one
thirg more TO say, and that rs that the
,,srticilar arrangement that IS becoming
- each woman should be her own IN
dividusl STYLE and he suggestions here
given arc only offered as examples TO try
and discard IL they are 1pt becoming,
Tor no rule OF fashion Is less biudii
,hau hat which relates TO head-dress.
There are three striking features which
Characterize the now spring dres3es' amy
look modern and hrst-blouse waists ana
wide skirts The long shoulders are not
especially new They are merely more
Of the same However they are none
the less decidedly spring feature. y
glacs silk in an odd blue shade shows The
long shoulders made very nat with Jet
embroidered cpaulets caught down over
very fun puffel Sic yves. The waist Is
a blouse of ACCORDION pleated SILK with
one wide box picat in front, he whole
being sowed into jetted belt. The skirt
Is very wide, with a jet trimming at the
bottom, and TO make IL appear still fuller
a panel OF accordion pleate1 silk Is set
IN On each side.
The new French skirt has god ,ts at the
sides as well as ,tt the back a fact which
makes II even more difficult 10 hang"
than formerly. silk skirt. especially
~ IL be black, must be chung" with more
pains than a cloth one There Is revul-
sion In favor Of MORE again. and the
dealers have taken II off the 81 cent bar
gain counter 20 sell II at something like
the old prices. This Is because IL is need
ed 10 take the place Of the heaVy velvets
and yelveteens of winter.
TACK MORE gown with blue CLINT
worn by lady WAC was not Mrs. Gould
nor Mrs. Vanderbilt, bat very fashion
able lady, nevertheless-had a wide skirt
with FIVE godets AT back and sides. Ths
IA al Ha hlDIlQC-~IHl