Evening star., 1895-11-09

this month Upon his
delegate in America. Congratulations un-
interruptedly have flowed in upon Monsig-
nor Satolli since the announcement of his
good fortune was made known.
But 1t has remained for a woman to dis
cern that in this elevation to the cardinal
ate Monsignor Satolh is not without cause
for commiseration. There is the bother of
new clothes. Verify, clothes do "tailoriZe
and demoraliZe" even the proud and right
eous satisfaction Of becoming a cardinal.
1t is scarcely less of problem than be-
coming bride, for the red hat Is a gift
from the pope which costs as much in the
change of wardrobe as the gift of well
ding ring costs a society woman.
Through the kindness of Cardinal Glib
bons and of Dr. Rocker, secretary Of the
apostolic delegation, l have been initiated
in the mysteries of a cardinals trousseau.
l went to Baltimore for the express pur-
pose of seeing just what this muca-talked-
of red hat Is like. and having seen 1t. tell
you-from the point of view Of woman
1t Is very little as piece of millinery. In
the mere matter of size 1t may be truly
called great. 1t outdoes the most marvel
Gus thing ever accomplished in the way Of
theater hat. The brim measures three
feet across.
Wider Than the Doorway.
When that of Cardinal Gibbons was
brought forth to be shown to me. the serv-
ant bringing 1T had to have assistance in
getting 1t through an extra wide door,
which was finally done by setting the box
containing 1t up on end and rolling it in
The material Of the hat is cardinal beaver
1t Is round in shape, and in ridiculous con-
trast to the immense fiat brim IS a small
conical-shaped crown, quite too small, ap-
parently, to fit anybody's head.
But that Is another queer feature Of the
G 1al n 20
head. The sole use to which it is put other
than symbolizing the, distinction of Its re-
cipient at the time 1t is. bestowed is to be
hurg in the cardinals church after his
death. Thus the red hat Is about as cheer
full a possession as a tombstone, containing
blank for the date of ones demise. When
the hat is hung in the church. there is de-
pended from the crown couple of huge
cardinal and gilt tassels, considerably larger
than sucn as are used in draping heavy win
dow curtains. though in other respects re-
sembling these. -
But while this is pre-eminently the hat
above all others of a cardinal, a bride is
seldom richer in the number and variety
that makes complete outfit. None of
them, however, is calculated to inspire envy
in the breast of woman most susceptible
that Cardinal Gibbons wears on state occa
sions. one in black beaver. the other a red
beaver. both shaped like what Is technically
known among women as "nat," and trim
med with a red and gold cord and tassel.
Must Go to Rome.
These hats moved me to pity. Besides be-
ing nothing pretty in themselves, they be-
trayed to me that cardinal does not treat
his millinery with the tenderness of a woman
for the same thing. There was distinctly
masculine contempt for color and frippery
In headgear revealed in a positively down.
trodden expression 1 discerned in both these
dress hats of Cardinal Gibbons.
AS doubtless you know. the glory of the
cardinalate descends upon a man by two
stages, each marked by a particular hat.
The tremendous tassel-trimmed creation
completes and crowns the honor-bestowed,
and to receive this, Mgr. Satolli will have
eventually to go to Rome. for this is con-
ferred directly by the hands of the pope.
The hat-or hats, there are two-which will
&C me to the papal delegate in this country
some time this month. are skull cap of
cardinal MORE. called zuchette, and a
cardinal berretta, which reproduces, with a
change of color, the hat commonly worn
with a habit by priest.
1 was let go upstairs at Cardinal Gibbons,
and not only closely inspected, but also
handled one of the robes of state which he
had worn at wedding the night previous,
and happened therefore to be spread out
in all its glory, easy of access. This l
tell you frankly went straight to my wo-
mans heart. 1t Is similar to the robe
Monsgnor SatolH will wear on the occasion
of his installation as cardinal. The ma
terial is marvelously lustrous cardinal
MORE, and 1t is cut something like the
train a woman dons to be introduced at
the court of Victoria. 1t flows from the
neck six yards in length, and over it Is
worn shoulder cape of ermine. The ef-
feet is royal and impossible to be marred
finery which spoils the cardinals best
hats.
A Cardinals Wardrobe.
When 1 went to the residence Of the new
ly decreed cardinal and asked his secretary
if in anticipation of his coming honor Mon
s;gnor Satolli does not now find himself in
the predicament of Flora .McFlimsey, DR..
Rocker, the secretary. answered yes, and
confided to me that at Is a great nuisance"
THE detail CT a cardinals outfit" he
continued. "is as complex as woman's
dress, and the regulations governing 1t. as
strict as those of an officers uniform. Then
in this country there is the added difficulty
of having TO get everything abroad. Mon
signor Satolli will order his probably In
Rome"
robe consist?" 1 asked
DIR. Rocker groaned, and then good natur-
edly set to work to satisfy my altogether
feminine and frivolous CURIOSITY concern
ing cardinals.
IA cardinal wears three colors-cardinal,
violet and old rose--and he must have COM
nleta outfit in each of these colors. The
house dress, worn on dL OCCdSlOHS VI
sacred functions, is black cassock, cut
like a bishops, the edges bound with red,
with the button holes and the buttons red.
With this he wears a red sash, and at all
times he wears the red skull cap or Zuchet-
to, and around his neck the pectoral cross Of
a bishop. That is a 'arge cross worn on the
breast suspended ON heavy gold chain.
For Various Occasions.
"On dress occasion not of religious char
acter he dons a ferra'Holone-a cloak Of red
silk, which is full cape that is tied by
ribbon around the neck. and falls away
from the shoulders to the heels in the back.
from under yoke-shaped collar. On re-
ligious occa asions the cardinal must wear
red cassock, en- traine, with a red.silk sash,
having gold tassels. Over this he wears a
rochet-that is a garment of lace, like
surplice, having tight sleeves. with cuffs
lined with red silk. A :nozetta, or shoulder
CAPE of red, red collar and red stockings
are required to complete this costume.
I'm winter the habit is of cloth, with the
edges of silk, and the mozetta Of cloth lined
with silk In summer a lightweight cloth
may be substituted, or it may be made en-
tirely of silk, in which case 1t must be the
kind known as watered silk. When the car
dinal is present and not acting at sacred
functions, he wears a silk cloak having a
train six yards in length, and a cape that is
made of ermine for winter and of silk for