The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-18
curls, not just curled at the ends, but all
their length, as in the ringlets of years ago.

their length, as IN the rim gletS or years ago.
Black, white and tan shoes are worn,
and the stockings, to be in the best taste,
are absolutely plain and match the shoes
in color.
The best way to keep straight hair in
curl is to wet the hair first thoroughly
with alcohol or cologne and curl while
wet. leaving the curls uncomb bed until the
hair dries thoroughly. A touch of powder
on curls and forehead will remove any
slight moisture, and we are assured that
even the straightest hair when so treated
will stay curled for hours. The touch of
powder must be so slight as not to show.
AS I have announced, the pompadour
style of dressing the hair is the latest in
Paris, but the wise matron or maiden
modifies all styles to suit her own particu-
lar type, and so is always fascinatingly
stylish, and this should be our chief aim.
Nevertheless, two prominent women here
who are noticeable for their ugly, insult
able gowns frequently inform their
modistes that they do not care in the
least whether fabric or style is becoming
or not, as they intend to have it anyway
if it is said to be fashionable, and yet one
would imagine that these women would
have better judgment.
Not long ago heard of an excellent
way of making a model on which the
home dressmaker can design her own
waists. She must take one of her best
fitting old bodices and, after buttoning or
hooking it up the front, sew it together
securely, then cut off any buttons and
round the bottom sew a stout piece of
canvas. Then let her sew the sleeves at
the wrists and stuff the whole with saw
dust or bran. After putting in as much as
possible she must shake dummy several
times daily for about week, constantly
adding more stuffing. as it will settle by
degrees. When it is not possible to put In
any more, sew piece OF pasteboard
around for the neck, and then stitch across
that another piece of stout material, and
if you are clever and understand cutting
and fitting little you can make your own
gowns with excellent effect provided your
figure is moderately good.
l read that others besides my little
Frenchwoman use well-fttlng corset COW
ers as foundations on which to drape deli
cate fabrics for evening wear, as recently
young woman using a cOrset-cover as
foundation made one of the fancy waists
now so much in vogue, of ivory-white
satin, covered entirely with cream-white
or black lace of light texture. These cor
sages are trimmed with various colored
ribbons and have sleeves with balloon
puff, shirred in at the elbow and finished
with a frill of black lace and knots of
bright ribbon, which are arranged in bands
over the shoulders, where the sleeves are
put in, and end in knots or rosettes at the
bust line. The belt and collar match in
velvet the ribbons. Such waists are most
effective when worn with black satin or
MORE skirt, and it looks we'll to define the
seams of MORE skirt with narrow Jet pas
sementerie.
Many expert needlewomen have been
amusing themselves lately embroidering
their sash ends with artistic designs in
colored beads and spangles. Large bows
are beautihed in the same way. The work
is said to be easy and quite fascinating.
A simple but charming morning costume
worn at one of our fashionable summer re-
sorts is thus described: alt consists of an
entire skirt of white English needlework
in small wheel pattern, made over an
underskirt of soldier-blue silk. A narrow
accordion-pleated frill of the silk peeps be-
low and preserves the edge of the white
skirt. The corsage is q Louis QuinZe
jacket OF soldier-blue broadcloth, with full
skirt. This jacket opens over vest of
soldier-blue silk, closely embroidered in
scarlet and gold.
The prettiest thing about the jacket is
the shoulder cape of white needlework
over soldier blue silk, with Medici collar
of the same. The needlework is every
where turned in or under and is finished
by no edge whatever. The coat is lined with
scarlet silk, which rarely shows, however,
and there are TWO pockets, one on each
side, and large buttons of blue cloth, en-
broidered in red and gold"
Concerning the costumes worn by the
ladies of Vienna when spending the sum-
mer in their mountains, among which they
climb to the Hottest SUBMITS and whence
they descend the most dangerous ice
slopes with the swiftness of practiced
mountaineers, following the channels on
narrow lodges of rock which give ordinary
mortals the shivers to even contemplate,
Vogue's correspondent writes: mo
boomers for them! No costumes or atti-
tudes which make one hesitate as to the
sex of the being before ones astonished
eyes. A pair of perfectly fitting knicker-
bockers worn under a short tweed skirt
waistcoat of chamois-leather, half con-
cealed by 'Joppe' or gray cloth, many
pocketed, green passpoiled jacket and
Tyrolese hat adorned with a chamois
beard; tall CATERS of untanned leather and
stout boots, and they are ready for the
mountain. Equally compact are their
riding-habits for summer or winter wear,
without any frills, ribbons or lace collars,
and gauntlets such as / have seen occa-
sionally futtering about amateur sports
women who knew no better, poor things,
but still who ought to have inquired from
competent people in order to avoid these
mistakes which stamped them at once for
ignoramuses of the deepest dye"
With the Louis XVI modes, now so
generally seen, the huge ties, cravats and
chokers of the same period have made
their appearance, and are by no means
ugly, and this winter will prove a grace
full substitute for the now all-too common
place boa. They consist of plentifully
trimmed folds of muslin or gauze, but for
really hot weather the deliciously cool
Marie Antoinette fchu holds its own.
From the fact that the Lamballe hats
have found great favor and are adorned
not only with tulle ribbon and flowers,
but also with white lisse scarf coming
from the turned up back and twisted ar
tlsticallv around the neck and fastened in
great bow at the left side, it is predicted
that street wells in scarf drapery will soon
be seen.