New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-07-21

down on the bare rock under the open SKY. ne
Swiss watched the genufections and additions
and the repose the exposed scree with mel
anchoy but useless forebodings He thought
that the Tartar would be frozen stiff before
morning. In the middle Of the night he crept
out with his teeth chatter.ng to look at the
corpse, and 10. the Tartar with his bare feet
pointed upward from the frozen rock was Sleep
ing the sleep Of Allah's favortes and dreaming
perhaps Of paradise.
The Tartar was certainly a character He
had little or no conception Of the civilized I'M
provements in mountain climbing. and no re-
spect whatever for Alpine traditions. once IN
a dangerous pass where the Europeans were
carefully picking their steps In the teeth or
wind that was almost a gale. he became I'M
patient at the slow progress and dashed boldly
ont on an lev slope In n second he was on MS
hack gliding downward with the speed OF light
ming and ieavinC behind him lengthening
streak Of cleaning ice. Below yawned gut
that seemed certain death. Herr Gott. er ISL
verIoren" exclaimed the chamos hunter But
he was not lie cleared the crevasse feet FORE
most. brush ed the snow from his garments ana
composedIy sat down to wait for his companions
who descended In the regular way by cutting
stems In the ice One would have supposed tha'
he had only adopted once more his customary
method OF crossing "Bergschrund On an
other occasion he dropped his ron-shod stan into
the depths OF a crevasse. Any one else wouin
have stumbled on with a malediction. But the
Tartar insisted on being let down at the end OF
q rope into the darkness. Soon he reappearcd
with his weapon. and to show his deIigh' III
sisted on adding Mr.. Mummery's knapsack to the
burdens which he already carried.
Dvch Tau is next TO Elbruz the highest peak
in the Caucasus. and It's conquest was no trif''hg
task The line Of ascent turned this way ana
that to evade projecting cliffs. now leading
through cefts and now over stretches OF treach-
erous snow Mr. Mummery has prejudice
against being tied with rope. but there came
time as he neared the peak when he began TO
argue that II would be an insult to the second
mountain in Europe for any one to reach It's
summit without making use Of precautions 50
common In the Alps He conhded his appre-
tensions 10 the Alpine guide. who was some DIS
lance above him. Would he come up for H. or
should an end Of the rope be lowered to him?
inquired the guide with grin. Mr.. Mummery
had no difficulty In deciding that he would take
II Just where he stood and placate the mountain
AT once The view from the summit was an
ample reward for all the efforts that had peeh
required The neighborirg peak Of Shkara was
wrapped IN CLOUDS anu lne IollS iiub' VA """e"
was buried In a sea Of vapCr that darkened
below. but fairly glowed with whteness on the
uprer surface A little further away rose kosh-
tantau-how oddly these names sound In COM
parison with those OF the much visited Alps-its
SHOWS cleaning against threatening storm
cloud The vast heights Of Elbruz alone were
cloudless. and in the marvellously clear ar
seemed so near that the Alpine guide contemptu-
ously derided the table OF distances prepared oy
Russian surveyors.
Those who love Notwithstanding solely lot
itself will be delighted with this book lts
.urnptuous makeup seconds admirably the accu-
racv Of the letter-press and the beauty OF the
Illustrations There Is science In Inc book
The mention OF thermometer Is vigorously
avoided Not a throe Of mountain sickness Is
suggested The author IL bent on r'tl'ctihs
simply the sport ~ conquering stubborn peaks.
But he does turn from his adventures long
nough To discuss the proper use ~ the rope
Vtle no Ioes no, advocate mountaineering
viihou, a guide he insists that the amateur
climbers are dctrriOra' ng In pu1lity. OF "'h III
the Mattcrhorn. the rope was t"d on near the
tap u peak Now IncNp"rienccl cNnpcrS ar
''rlpcd" almost at the start only IN the 'aSc
81 PERSONS who should not try n mountain al
all docs he accept the statement that no party
OF climbers should he less than three IN nutiiprt'
He prefer. two and would allow the US" OF tne
rome only In places where II Is ind'sI"nsaoi".
Vh.r. avalanches are frequent he points out
that the rope IN Invariably source OF danger
Tn. same il true OF party In the MIDST OF
falling stones But. after all. the amateurs VIII
climb and will continue 70 submit 10 IN" ek.
,orilon and horsepay ~ guides In order TO ahh
a now leaf TO their experience Thcy VIII nave
Z, b. roped az long the mountains have 10 be
ascendei on foot and Mr. Mummerys discussion
ia really Of value only 10 experts Ike himself