The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-07-07

mousseline de sole in crossed bertha folds,
gave it that elegantly simple air that seems
to suit all moments.
Another useful rig of many possibilities,
brought over from Paris, is street costume
of mohaIr in beautiful huckleberry blue.
Mohair is in Paris the texture at present
most seen in plain street gowns, and the
favorite model is plain skirt and box
coat with back in one piece.
Sometimes this will hang plain from
pointed yoke, but in almost every case two
little openings are left at the bottom OF the
under-arm seams, making the Sits seen in
masculine blouse or shirt bosoms. Close
stitching gives all edges neat tailor finish,
and where the seams of some of the skirts
will be left plain others will be strapped
over with narrow bands of the same ma
terial. The model of the skirt is godeted
back and front cut of the width of the
material, which runs two bias seams into
the back, and produces at the sides that
outward firt SO becoming and easy to the
feet. The buttons used will be great things
as big as butter plates, OF smoked pearl,
horn, or fancy metal and even those of
Dresden china, gayly lowered. are said to
be in good taste.
Again a mohair gown will show no but
tons at all, the fronts of the single-breasted
jacket fastening neatly under a stitched
flap, such as finishes mans box coat.
As for the French mohairs themselves
they are most beautiful. The handsomest
patterns are enormously wide and in a
loose sort OF bunting weave, and not even
in black do they suggest the shiny funereal
things one is accustomed to associate with
the name. In color the huckleberry- blue
Is perhaps the latest tint, but a more gra-
cious and becoming one is soft wavy
brown that seems especially effective when
worn with blouse in any of the gentle
green's now fashionable.
One brown mohair gown, that has just
made it's debut in New York, has a bodice
in crinkled silk, patterned gorgeously and
confusedly with palm leaves in many
colors. 1t was simply gathered at the
neck and waist into belt and stock of
black satin ribbon, and the sleeves, which
were entirely without stiffening, fell in
great loose puff three-quarter length.
This palm leaf silk, together with gauze
latest French fad for waists. In some of
the gauzes the tones are wonderful great
splotches of fame shading into emerald
green, and again melting into effects that
are almost brown. No trimmings are used
with them, the many colorings of the
texture being the point intended for
notice. There is always plain ribbon
stock and belt, however, and sometimes
these will reproduce predominating tint
in the gauze, emerald green, fame red,
or else an orange hue that is positively
startling.
Indeed if one is to Judge from the bodies,
and some of the fower-decked hats that
come over to US from Paris, color is to be
more and more the thing as the season adj
vances. Hats, big and little, are simply
laden down with gay posies. In some
cases, with the exception of q narrow fold
of velvet that faces the under brim, there
is not ray of other trimming, and the
blossoms will be massed irrespective of
tint or degree.
Modest daisies, for instance, will hobnob
with gorgeous flags, and naughty orchids
rub elbows with field violets.
b Again, on single low crowned sailor
hat there will be ivy leaves with the violets,
and besides, wreath of roses with loose
trembling petals, that shade all the way
from palest pink to red so deep that it is
almost like the back of the famous Ger
man tulip. Sometimes, indeed, there will
be black rose under a brim, and with
much color above this never fails to be
effective.
Dark women, the pale, romantic sort,
are wearing hats with white flowers, white
silk roses and gardenias with thick waxy
green leaves. These last are especially be-
coming to brunettes, and 1t is remarked
that they combine we'll with sunburnt
straw and black ostrich feathers though
no more than three gardenias seem to be
used at one time, two on the outside of the
hat and one under the brim, which, if
waved, may hold the blossom straight in
front, or else loosely at the side back as if
it were thrust in the brim. With blue
black locks they are very fetching. And
since the Duchess of Marlborough has al
ready made them fashionable in England
it doubtless won't be long before they are
the rage in New York.
At present they are rare, and correspond
ingly precious and desirable.
Other points on dress, gathered en- pas
SAINT, are that sporty girls are given to cot
ton shirt waists, with white pi1ue collars
and cuffs, and that many fair cyclists who
wish to be cool are having blouses made of
ecru pongee. A whim for bicycle skirts is
to have the skirt button up one side of the
front, which enables the rider when on
lonely road, to whip off her petticoat with
out lifting it over her head-which, it
seems, is very naughty-and so go along
unhampered in her little Knockers.
Summer underwear and negligees grow
more lovely day by day. and the dainty
figured batistes and dimities keep the lead
with materials.
newest and most becoming models for this
garment, and is of yellow batiste embroid-
cred with red spots, and red finishing the
scalloped edge.
NEW SKIRT TRICK.
A word more about the skirts of the
mohair street suits. They are made up
entirely without lining. A bias facing half
a yard deep and an interlining of bias grass
cloth the same width finishes the bottom
alone, and trick of French dressmakers
is to stretch both dress and facing in put
ting them together. This makes the fare
at the bottom even more marked and gives
the skirt delightfully."- eaSy Hsat ~ At the
top of the facing there are three rows of
close stitching. NINA FITCH.
An American who saw Ibsen at a court
ball in Norway recently says that the
authors small figure fairly hlazed with