The record-union., 1895-07-19
WONDERS And GLORIES OF ALASKA.
As Seen by Wanderers From the
Capital City.
Graphic Account of a Recent Pli'
grimage to the Land OF Glaciers
and Icebergs.

Iwritten for the RECORD-UNToN py MIS-
William Beckman.J
T had dreamed of and longed for trip
To Alaska for several years, and at lasI
had q full realization OF my dreams Oh
the last trip of the steamer queen. Oah-
fornians are too familiar with the deilght-
ful trip over the Shasta route. MANY
know also what it is to sleep through d
hot night in Pullman car from oacia-
mento to Redding, to be awakened eaf1y
in the morning by the sweet gurgIe anu
dash of running waters. L kno" "n1'
such an awakening means-to dress hur-
riedIv and step out and seat myself on
the platform of the car and preathe tne
cool, sweet, pine-scented air; 10 w&'cn
the leaping and limpid waters OF tne
Sacramento River. glad with all the JOY
and newness of it's existence. IL Is So
vounp and it's fountainhead such snort
distance farther up.
An early breakfast, and we seat our
selves in the observation car at Duhs-
muir and then speed on through the
whole morning aglow with nght ana IlIe.
And what ioy it was 10 drink from thag
most delicious of ali springs, Shasta, the
tamousl Then on again past dear ola
snow-covered Mount Shasta, over Inc
picturesque Siskiyou Mountalns-ap pleas
ant day of almost unrIVaIed mountain
sceuery.
Another night on the cars, and we
awaken in Portland. A few hours here
and then we are en- route for Tacoma, ar
irving there IN time for bath, dinner,
and. best of all, to recline in an easy
chair on the broad balcony OF the Tacoma
Hotel, watching as glorious a sunset ss
one ever sees. Mount Rainier, looming
up so grandly, proud OF It's two feet over
Mount Shasta, more symmetrical ana
more snowy, like q huge frosted cake.
While at the base and halfway up the
mountain the snow looked cold and blue
through the mist, the top glowed warm
and rosytin the last rays of the setting
sun.
We were not too tired to attend baby
show that night, and each OF the party
soon had fayorite among the dlnple0
darlings. My sympathy and vote IL
Gould vote here, and In real man fashion
paid for it went TO a dear little fellow,
not so much for his sake as for the
mother, who was deaf and could not hear
the first sweet lisping OF bis baby tongue
Tie following day we were busy about
tickets, baggage, steamer chairs, etc.
took chances on the Captains good
nature and had rocking chair sent on
board. and the comfort OF 1t could not be
told. Most OF my thoughts herein de-
scribed may be entitled, 10 Alaska IN
a Rocking Chair"
After attending reception IN the even
ing to General Schoheld, who also went
on the trip with US, we went aboard the
boat early in the morning OF the 27th OF
june and soon found ourselves at Sc
attic. 4 short stay here, and then on 10
Port Townsend, the last port of entry IN
i1nfil laSlEo c
reached.
We reached Victoria at P. NJ. remain
ing until S. Here we met others of our
party. who had come by water from San
Francisco. Most OF them had been i'll on
the way up and had no such pleasant
recollectiOns as our trip had given us. a
small party OF US took carriage and rode
TO the Gorge, picturesque spot, the
water of which comes clear and crisp
from the bay and winds ii serpentine way
among wooded knobs and slOping lawns.
Al typical wayside inn we ordered
dinner, then tumbled on the green grass,
danced, laughed and sang ourselves
hoarse in utter abandonment OF joy and
innocent mirth. a stald citizen OF Vic
toria said to our hostess: why csn'i
our people enjoy life as these a meri-
cans do?' "Ihey don't know how"
was the reply.
We were not too patriotic to praise the
good things to eat-chicken and salad, the
homemade bread, butter, coffee, cream,
straw berries and ices. These were far IN
advance of what we once had at Driard's
Hotel, or the Poodle Dog. There were nc
happier mortals than the five Of US who
just made the steamer in time. "All
aboardr' and we were oft in reality foT
Alaska and unknown regions.
If this were story OF the continued
in-our-next" kind l could then give you
an idea of this trip. AS it is, can only
name few points of interest, tell OF few
things | saW-moStly from the ship or
from the vantage spot attained by me and
my rocking chair. For twelve hundred
miles 1t is truly a wonderland. There
are narrow channels and straits and lone
man said) "Hushes," but l called them
broad expanses of the purest, clearest,
skimmering waters.
There are abrupt declivitIes springing
from the water's edge thousands of feel
high, and Oh, the ineXpressible beauty OF
the dear little islands that dot the waters
everywhere! It looks, in going through
that inland passage, as if when GOD had
made this earth He had bit lett on His
hands and had shaken it Off broadcast
upon the waters-j ust little staccato- marks
TO accentuate the beauty, the harmony o
the whole, and, looking upon it, pro-
nounced it good. And they bloom anC
blossom, and green trees and velvety
sward grow down TO the very brim. and
forever green and fair, please and delight
the few who wander up there.
l shall speak of Metlakahtla, the neat.
est Of all Indian villages, and Mr.. Dun
can, whom l was glad to grasp by The