The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1895-03-21
THE REAL DESIGNER
MME WORTH THE ONE WHO MADE
THE MODIsTE's REPUTATION.
She Had Been an EmpIoye and He
Married Her to Avoid Her Setting
Up n Rival Establishment.

real designer was a young woman in his en-
ploy, whom he married to prevent her
starting a rival establishment. This is the
sensational story which Paris has I'M
earthed and is now talking about with
great avidity. 1t is a story which throws
a great deal OF doubt upon the originality
hitherto attributed to Worth, and makes
one wonder whether, after all, he deserved
his reputation.
In the early days of his business career
he had in his establishment a woman who
was known as his designer. So largely did
his sales increase and so much in vogue
were the designs of his artistic modesto
that each year he was obliged to make a
very large increase in her salary. Even
then she became, as the French say, very
difficult, and often mentioned the POSSIBLE
iy of setting up for herself. With that pos
sibility in view a brilliant idea came to
Worth-he asked the designer to become his
wife. When the marriage contract was
drawn UP, not only was the designer to be
Nine. Worth, but she figured as an equal
partner in the business.
Whether it was Worth's own arrange
ment or the idea Of the clever French
woman whom he had married (for French
women are the greatest business women in
the world, it is hard to say; but certain it
- shoS thic t1lilC OI MILK. ~ us
appeared, as it were, from view. and it was
Monsieur Worth who designed the costumes
made at his establishment. 1t was NJ.
Worth who assured his distinguished GUS
toners that he would consider what could
best suit madame and the occasion, and
that on the next visit he would give his
ideas" 1t was monsieur, and not madame,
who became known the world over as the
great milliner, dreSsmaker, designer, etc.
Yet his ideas were always evolved in
were to profit by them, to whom they were
disclosed only when. on a subsequent visit,
with the embodied ideas in a costume or
cloak, return with the filter into the august
presence of the supposed designer, to re-.
the fit and b-ecomingness. M. Worth gained
great effect by occasionally rep.acing a pin
in a seam or in a part of the drapery.
French people have not a particle of faith
in the idea that anything artistic can be of
English origin, and very many French peo-
than an excellent business man, a success
full "poseur,' whose wife was the real pre-
sizing genius OF her art OF dress. with any
Certain it is that into certain parts of his
immense establishment no customer. how
trate. Just who and what were hidden
within these inner shrines Of the Goddess
of Fashion no one could positively say.
EMMA ABBOTTS ORDER.
Emma Abbott was the only one, besides
his immediate employees, who ever pene-
trated into the holy of holes of his work.
shop. She once gave the writer her expert
ence, and this is the way of it:
Feeling convinced that should she send in
her card with her professional name she
would receive more prompt attention.. but
her bills would likewise nave additions for
that same reason, she therefore chose to
erill,'' and to wait her turn as any un-
known person was obliged to do. After even
admitted to an audience with the presiding
genius. She presented a letter of her bank
wuas, good. and dna an ' ASSISTANT began me TO oe take
down the prima donna's orders.
As they increased In value and number.
ton. One of the costumes she ordered was
of court train in length, made of white silk.
completely hand embroidered in gold-a
costume which she desired for an act in
.Lucrezia Borgia." When she stated the
time at which she wished her orders de-
livered. both Worth and the assistant raised
their hands in protest. 1T would be i'm
possible to have the robe made of gold en-
enough expert artists in Paris to cover an
immense train and corsage with the gold
butternies and flowers madame desired"
The prima donna called again, with the
same result. 1t could not be brought her
for inspection. as it was stretched on a
frame, and Emma Abbott boldly asked
Worth to allow her to go to tie workroom
and see her dress in the hands of the en-
broiderers. The man milliner gave a gasp,
but there was something SO persuasive In
her audacity that he gave her in charge of
the various rooms till she came to the one
in which the embroiderers were at work
on the gorgeous train of the costume for
her representation of the wicked Borgia.
AMERICAN BRIBERY.
Then Emma Abbott gave even greater
proof of her powers of persuasion-she
actually induced those embroiderers to work
overhours and even at night. and the gold
embroidered dress for the court of Lucre-
zia Borgia came over to America with her
in the top of one of her trunks. The writer
has amir many gorgeous stage cos
tunes, but never a one which, in rich ma
terial, in beautiful artistic effects, in dainti-
terial, in beautiful articticeffects, in dainti-
ness and completeness of detail could ap-
proach that magnificent white and gold
embroidered dress which Emma Abbott:
was lucky enough to see in course of fash
Joining in Worth's workroom.
Genevieve Ward was another favorite of
Worth, and from her the writer learned
whalebones. The actress has never worn
even a whalebone.
When she first went to Worth and said
she would not put on a corset or have a
whalebone in her costumes, Good. good"
he exclaimed, now We shall have a perfect
fit. But do you imagine, madam, that you
are the only one who has come to me to be
fitted who did not wear that nomination
should give you a list of the distinguished
women who do not wear corsets you would
be much aStoniShed, but l cannot do so.
Women dislike to be thought singular, and
at present do not want it known that hey
prefer the figure nature has given them to
one manufactured by the corset maker; but
/ can assure you the number is great and
constantly increasing" Let the dress re-
formers hold Worth in kindly remembrance.
r MACKAY WAS ORIGINAL.
From an artist who had known Mrs. DO
manga" Mackay even from the days when
she taught school in the mountain towns
of Nevada, the writer heard some of
Worth's experiences with this customer.
Her contract with him forbade his copying
any of her costumes-each one to be an
original creation. not to be duplicated for
even the Empress Of Russia.
Mrs. Mackay was about to attend q recep-
ton in Paris which meant one other great
step in the social ladded she was persist
emily climbing, and she gave Worth orders
for a costume of exceptional originality and
elegance. When she went for a final in
spection Worth proudly displayed TO her
what he considered a dream of loneliness.
The dress was of brocaded white satin. on
which he had used a Henri Quatre stom-
acher and court underskirt heavily en-
broidered with the finest seed pearls-a trim
ming he would hardly have used so lavishly
on a costume for even a royal parsonage.
Mrs. Mackay coolly examined the costume
and then told him she liked 1t all but the
stomacher: Worth could have had his