The times. (Owosso, Mich.) 1882-1897, 1895-04-12
Letter from H. B. Dewey.
BREMEN, SWITZERLAND,

Yesterday / crossed the Alps via the
Gothard tunnel. All that has been written
about this monumental engineering project
and also about the unequalled scenery of
this green country is amply justified. The
beauty consists not SO much in the noun
tains, the sky nor the lakes but in combine
ton with the settlements, old ruins, the
effect is beyond description. There are
localities in the Rockies and especially in
the Cascades where equally as fine natural
scenery can be found, but 1t needs the
hand of man and the lapse OF
centuries to make 1t comparable to Switzer-
land. The weather here is nearly perfect
warm without being hot and just enough
rain to keep the dust down. Snow still caps
the mountains, but much of 1t must disap-
pear in few weeks. l spent the day In
Lucerne and came here by boat tonight.
The ride by day must be panorama and
by night the effect is heightened by the pale
light and the numerous windows In houses
that dot either side of the lake. Far up the
mountain dim light can be seen-so high
and so far distant that you are tempted to
believe it is star half obscured by pass
ing cloud. Tomorrow l go to Zurich for
three days and Friday night shall be In
Emperor Wilhelm's domain.
Seven weeks in Italy is brief visit to
land where every spot is rendered memoir
able by more than 20 centuries of authen tic
history, where the fine arts have attained
their highest development and where re-
generation is taking place today, after CEN
turtles of superstition and oppression, that
is probably without a parallel in Europe.
Only a glimpse can be obtained in seven
weeks but that glimpse will never be for
gotten. OF course l have seen the chief
objects of interest described by the guide
books and in the main have followed the
beaten path. Yet have found many things,
omitted even by the comprehensive Baedak-
er, worthy of more than passing notice.
was early impressed with the efficiency
of the municipal government of the chief
cities and this impression only deepened the
longer 1 remained. The streets Of Milan
and Rome are kept as clean as parlor.
Everywhere men are at work early and late
as il the very pavement must be worn away
by the army of street sweepers. Even in
Naples, confessedly the dirtiest of Italian
cities. there are streets that would be envied
in many an American city of equal size.
The protection to life and property-in the
cities-s all that could be desired, Police
men patrol every quarter at all times of day
and night 1t is hardly possible to be far
from calling distance of policeman and
they are always civil and obligng. 1t some
lines seemed to me that the conception of
4. official positions held by Italians differed
entirely from that which we are familiar
with in Amerca-they realize that their
duty is to serve the public and not to domi-
neer it. The principal streets are well
lighted but the narrow ones, where there is
the greatest need. are often completely neg
lected. Gas is generally used, the age of
electricity has scarcely dawned in Italy. In
all cities the supply of pure water greatly
exceeds the demands of the wine drinking
Italians
Liz luOob obullllbS lOotuiO VI h'NhiS'P'i
government in Italy is the wide sphere of
action. We think we have done enough in
America when we provide free schools,
operate water or gas works, protect life and
property and maintain homes for the poor
and unfortunate. Italian cities construct
and operate steel railway systems control
the telephone and erect palatial business
blocks. In Milan "the Galleria," which is
said to be the finest business block in Europe
was erected by the municipality a few years
ago--whole squares of old rookeries were
condemned and the land purchased by the
city. Last year the "Galleria" Melted the
city sixteen per cent on the investment.
In Rome hundreds Of private residences are
the property of the government, many OF
them costing millions of lire. At present
much of this property scarcely pays the
interest on the debt incurred in the con.
:, truction, but in few years must be large
~ 4 larce OF revenue. State socialism is more
than theory in Italy, it is reality; the
tendency seems to be, also, toward further
increase in the activities of both city and
state.
The most disgracefu feature of the
cities of Italy is the army of beggars per
mitted to prey on every tourist; II is abso
lutely impossible to escape them; they are
omnipresent; 1t matters not whether YOU
refuse to give them anything, or whether
you give them few centimes; they hound
you, block your passage and fairly compe
you to take cab or street car in order t
make any progress at all; at the entrance o
every church, gallery or museum there arr
scores of them; in Rome have been solic
tied for aims ten times In walking on,
lock; men, women with babes in thel
rs, children of tender years, alike maxi
ga burden. The general government ha
a passed law that requires every locality 3
support its poor and that forbids beggin