The San Francisco call., 1895-12-22

The teas on the 14th about which 1
promised to tell you were all successful
affairs, plenty of pretty girls, elegantly at
tired matrons, flowers and all the extras
necessary. Both of the young girls who
made their debuts are charming. The Jack
son-street one is decided blonde, with
bright sweet face and graceful manners;
the other is a regular Gibson girl, with all
the peculiar air and charm which seems to
surround his ideals.
Both were appropriately garbed in snowy
white and the Gibsonian girl had great
bunch of American Beauty roses. The
buds were out in great force, and seemed
te be thoroughly enjoying themselves. es-
peciauy on Octavia street, where there was
a fair number of our beaus of all ages being
represented.
OF course 1 observed the frocks, for, as
usual, there were several smart toilets.
One matron who received wore a graceful
robe of delicate gray crepe de chine COM
bined with a rose pink, which appeared as
a chiffon waist, with many frivolous frills
OF Valenciennes lace. The effect of max
ing the crepe over pink silk was excellent.
Then there were the usual number of black
silk gowns varied with light-colored vests.
One l liked was of creamy white satin
over which a richly spangled black net
was draped, the spangles being of green
and gold. Another of light blue had
number OF exquisiteIy embroidered chiffon
ruf1es.
A dainty debutante wore frock of
blurred pale blue Dresden silk, simply
made, the bodice OF blue crepe lisse over
plain blue silk. Butterfly bows" ex-
tended from the waist to the hem of the
skirt on the left side of blue satin ribbon.
Five adorned the skirt and one the right
shoulder. a very Frenchy dress was of
light shade of brown silk crepon, over
which was a lovely design of ferns in tones
of green. This skirt was also trimmed,
and | admired the arrangement of rosettes
of green satin, shading TO brown. They
were of just the right size and were placed
at intervals all around the skirt, about
twelve inches from the bottom. Tiny
q. little rosettes were on the corsage, which
was OF brown mousseline de sole over
green silk, the sleeves being OF the crepon.
:: Wonderfully becoming to blonde belle
= was a costume of pale bluish-gray crepon-
cite, the bloused front being of open en-
broidered silk over light blue satin. A
stock of blue satin ribbon com pleted at
once one of the daintiest and most appro-
pirate dresses worn by those who assisted
in receiving.
The hats worn were several of them
Gainsboroughs of black velvet and fine
ostrich plumes, with a touch of green,
blue or yellow mirror velvet next the hair,
with handsome rhinestone or Jet orna-
ment Several French mats and bonnets
were worth more than passing glance.
One stylish toque, made of the newest
braid, had quaint little brown crown; the
brim was composed of changeable brown
velvet; at the left side was an eXcellant
long narrow buckle of cut steel, while two
small buckles, matching the long buckle,
held the velvet in place on the brim. The
large buckle was arranged SO that not all
= of it was visible, as 1t was placed among
the broad loops OF a velvet bow.
Three handsome quilts and small bunch
of beautiful velvet roses completed a be-
coming hat, which went exceedingly well
with a stylish, iGunty jacket OF eyquis-'
ltely fine cloth OF a delicate tan shade.
1t was handsomely lined with a shot silk,
and had a collar of brown velvet and six
large smoky pearl buttons. 1t was strictly
taiior-made. several other jackets were seen
all we'll cut and with a certain air about
them showing the hand of good tailor;
but oh | spoke of bonnets and have not
mentioned even one, and really dear one
of gray and white chinette, with a white
aigrette and funny puff of real lace and
three crush roses, seemed to have been
especially designed for the fluffy golden
hair on which it rested. Another of white
lace, great steel wings and bright-red roses
was probabIy stylish. but l considered it
very ugly.
All Paris is going to see the new play,
"Viveurs" and the women are naturally |
delighted with it, for the first scene is at a
fashionable dressmaker's, fac-simile OF
Doucet's well-known salons, with the at
tendant premieres and minor "hands" |
ha aliaDfc of fhQ house on
attendant their arrival. Then the great
doors open and the principal characters in
the play appear in the persons OF Mines. |
Reiane. Jaime and Drunzer, three
ladies who have come to have their
fancy costumes ''tried on, and then |
then is the audience edifled by an e1hlpl-
ton Of some of the latest and most
charming creations from the best dress !
makers in Paris, and from these styles we
know changes will shortly take place In |
our toilets, so on this account Will take
pains to give you all the best descriptions
of the gowns and fabrics ootalnaDle. 10
begin. Nine Reiare changes her dress i've |
times in the four acts, and each dress is in |
exquisite taste. One is mauve crepe de
chine. embroidered with sprays OF white
lilac with q full bodice of pleated NOUS
seline de sole and white lace In alternate
bands, fastened at the waist with narrow
orange velvet ribbon. This complnation
of orange and mauye was hlghiy COM
mended.
Her gray satin gowns is embroidered
with gold and silver medallions. has full
draperies caught up with crimson roses,
and is greatly admired. But the novelty IN
Rejane's toilets, as in many OF the others,
is in the shape OF the sleeves. one gown
has short sleeves in the form of box pleat
and sleeves fitting the upper part OF the
arm have not been seen for SO long time
that a Paris correspondent says ''that 1t
was scarcely surprising to see the sensa-
tion they created. They were wonderfully
pleasant to look upon, and a murmur OF
admiration went round the house. VI
maStic velvet with some fancy design