New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-01-13
THE TABLE D'HOTE.
ITS SUCCESS AND ITS PRICES.

COURSE. AND THE PROPRIETOR PROsPERs
10 the man VINO for the purpose OF comparison
docks of periods OF New-Yorks history In decades
and to the man who goes forth the evening to
ma his dinner. not because he has no means to buy
H. out because he does not know where go to
eat H. there Is something extraordinary In the use
oi the table dhote dinner. Ten years ago there
was one table dhote In New-York-that IS to say
there was one that was pre-emnent. and pre-
eminent 4 was that other could be mentioned
IN the same breath with II. Did you ask a man at
mat time where you should go for table dho.e
d'hner' ne sent you TO that a short distance
ABOVE Washington Square 1t French and It
was given in hotel whose name is the same as
the hrst name Of a great reformer-not Dr. Park
hurst but also OF the Church. But in those days
ana now. too for the hotel Is still there and its
table dhote still reigns, the place spoken OF
merely by it's given name so to speak the family
name the hotel" not counting for anything. And
that was. and 10. particularly seemly. for when
'ne name Is mentioned one thinks not at all Of
hotel. but OF table d'hote.
But n ten years ago all New-York agreed
that there was only table dhote to stand with
ont rival. there are now more than can be counted
on mans fingers. and they all less
famous among peoDle who do not eat In the house
where they sleep. These, II must be understood
the bright lights Of the table dhote constellation.
for there are myrads Of feeble g,eams all the
city whose lights at So and 80 cents. pale in sicky
at 10 cents. 81. 81 % and 81 80.
Tine French restaurant above Washington Square
became famous among nomadc diners for its table
dhote dinner at 70 cents with Wine II the writer's
memory serves him faithfully II was because a
man thought that he could get better dinner there
for 10 cents than in any other place In the city
that he shouted from the housetops the fame of his
dining-pace. and made II famous. In the mod
ern age fame is on the market as a dividend paying
Investment and II 1t does not declare fat dividends
regularly the stockholders howl Justify. The
taurant which became famous for its 75-cent din
ner has been enjoying the dividends OF the fame in
recent years 4 single share. par value rs cents IL
quoted at 81 o without wine. and y cents extra
n wine Is not bought along with the share. There
are veterans. but perhaps their palstes have lost
their keenness of appreciation. or perhaps. as hus-
bands talk ot their mothers pies. veterans talk
Of the tables dhotc Of their youth-there vet
who Will tel you that the market value OF
these table dhote shares Of to-day would be dear
at the par value. ana that the shares quoted
decade ago at - cents each were really worth the
fancy prices demanded and commanded for them.
N ENGLISHMAN'S EXPLANATION
\ foreiGner-but hf Englishman II Is true
commenting Nesv-York practices. once said that
II You stayed a shop here long enough you were
slre 10 b" trickc1. Il am quite positive" he on
planned. THAT have bought in NewYork FOR
shilling apiece hanikcrohiefs which were worth two
sNll44iES apiece. tsNf 'ndt, ne dll'l UouIOiu4iS,
was a trap to induce me to pay eight shnss for
gloves that not worth two"
Whether the veterans right when they COM
pare unfavOrably the table dhote dinner at 81 .
with that - former years at Is cents. and whether
the diners Of today years for three shlings
a meal that vas worth three shillings and sxpence
IN order that they could be cdjo.ed later into pay
Ing i've shllrcs for dinner that was worth two
shi.Ings and sixpcnce. II Is nevertheless undis
patel fact not ony that the business ~ this French
restaurant has increased enormously hut that other
places have arisen nourshod and tackled their prices
tao pcgs higher.
tbs pioneer of illustrous table dho,e dining
places has added room after room to It's dining ac-
commodatlons. \ few years ago II established
garden where dinner was served during the blister
ms months OF summer. The garden has been rooted
IN % serve as An additional dining room In winter
The crowd which goes TO this restaurant, Is con-
siantly growing one. on recent evening the
writer went there to get dinner with some friends.
lie might have found single sea, at some table.
hut I'm all the rooms In the place there was no
vacant tlbe The dinner party was obliged to sit
IN Mite paror 10 wait FOR table other people
anxious 10 dine came IN. The little parlor WAS
crowded 10 uncomfortable closcness; the cafe was
already niled and chairs were placed In the halls
for constantly arriving newcomers
And n you ask warin-faced. busy head-waiter.
Why the price OF tho dinner has been increased to
NeS Pc VIII sweep MS arm around. pointing to
the crowds.
"Too keep too many people away" he says,
with shrug Of his shoulders.
An ARGUMENT HARD TO ANSWER.
And there is an argument that YOU cannot an
swcr II people will fight to pay s. . for a din
ner you cannot ask the proprietor OF the shop TO
pni the price back 10 20 cents. lie really doesn't
want 10 keep too many people away" Not he
II YOU start 20 - away. he will lead you coax
iugly 10 4 chair press you down on II. assure you
with a beautiful smile 81 frcndlncss and interest
that he will have a table for you IN TWO minutes
and then let you wait half an hour, But II you
are willing to do H. surely the blame is not wholly
hir Perhaps when the too many people get 10
be 50 many that hc would lose - per cent OF them
and sun be- dollars ahead nj 81 80 each for those
who remained he viii rails" the price from 81 - 10
NN Then. with his rooms full OF diners with
neg people insisting that this Is the place to dine
because 80 many people come at any price. ne
will point ,riumphanty to the crowds and gay:
FOR your comfort | raise the price to keep too
many people away
Bn; my. How the shoe does pinch. just the
same,
In that part Of Now-York where Broadway gets
close enough to Sixth-ave. to show even tarn
cr's boy from New-Jerscy that the two streets
ar going to cross over and change Sizes ars
former steward Of an athletic club several yea, ,
started modest table dhote TO nsa ,r'f h
among the clubmcn. and they were anxious 10 n.lp
him and TO see him prosper. Ills rooms peGain an,
too small. and he rented more floors ne p,il,
an addition and more people came. nc AM an
the house next to him. and that. too, was hlisd
Then he constituted an mpSsng front ers D anxos
to eat his table dhotc dinner. or his welch rao,
Of solemn duty To be performed Table d'hote
dinners are furnished with the express purpose OF
getting people into the habit OF coming TO ga,
come In such swelling numbers. The proprietor
began put up prices In last desperate nope OF
sternmlng the Tide Of hungry humanity. But the
people still coming. 1t Is true that oid-tiinse
patrons declare tbp, The WEIGH rabbits are tough
and warmed over" that the beer isn't so goon
and that tho table dhote dinner OF the past was
the IDEAL affair. and the one OF the present ne
fusion and a snare. But grumblers VIII grunlple'
and as proof OF IL. the crowds continue 10 come
the grumblers among them
ANOTHER WAY OF DOING 1T.