Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1893-1895, 1895-08-22

ward winter they will become more
marked and distinct. The new loose
waists have the bishop sleeves drooping
from the shoulder and having cuffs deep
or narrow as one may prefer.
Some Of the new separate waists cost $1b
and $50, and yet they appear extremely
simple. One was made of fine white mo-
hair ard, embroidered by hand In BulRa-
rian stitch In dull blue and red washable
! colors. Ono wide band was worked around
the middle of the sleeves. The cuffs were
covered with 1t, and so was the collar
Two narrow rows were worked down each
Side of the front. Across the upper part
of the bust were cords and silver buttons.
/ mention this i'm detail because this
Bulgarian embroidery is going to be seen
on everything where it is possible TO put
IL, even on black wooden goods where the
surface is smooth To make IL one must
get some loose meshed canvas and baste It
to the goods or garment and work the
stitches through both. When IL is all done,
the canvas threads are TO be pulled out
and this leaves the pattern directly on the
goods or the made up garment. This is
work that cannot be done by machine,
and therefore it will never be common or
cheap.
There are new silks In some OF these new
pattern waists copied after old, old time
goods, mostly patterns Of printed dolaines.
The mingling OF colors Is very artistic, but
the patterns themselves are superlatively
ugly. There was one pattern waist plated
from the shoulder and punched up at the
bottom In slight blouse effect There
were drapod belt and n stock collar of the
material, with soft bow at the back of
the neck. Down the front and ON the
shoulders were straps Of black velvet rib.
bon, held by silver frosted buttons. This
Is calculated for the young ladies', though
the same form has been exactly followed In
dark prune and heliotrope peau do sole and
satin duchess for more elderly persons.
1t is certain that the "waist" has an
other winter before 1t. saw delicate
shrimp pink and moss green striped taffe- |
Ia waist I'm blouse fashion, with six stripes |
Of moss green taffeta each edged with mar
row butter colored lace. These were
brought down the front. There was |
square collar Of the moss green silk edged |
with lace. Frosted silver buttons fastened |
the front. The belt was made like the
stripes. The sleeves had cuffs Of the green,
with square pointed chatelaine cuffs fall
ing over the hand These, also, were edged
There was among these new gowns suit
OF brilliant lilac rough crepon. The skirt
was plain. Tho waist and sleeves were of
green surah, just the color OF lilac leaves.
Over the shoulders was an immense peler-
inc Of yellow point de venise. Down the
front OF the waist there was a double jabot
OF lilac silk null, and there was fancy
sash bow of green. The sleeves were quite
laroa e,iuoto Tho told mo that |
she expected TO sec sleeves made quite
smooth on tho upper part of the arm before
winter set In, but that the large sleeves
were too cool and comfortable TO give up
while hot weather lasted. She also thinks
that there will be considerable Of the deep
crinkle crepon worn the coming season,
though It will not take rank as high
novelty. There are some new ideas In
these orepons now being wrought out and
one will be those with loops OF wool thrown
up on the surface of the upper crinkle.
That will bring 1t In the limit Of the new
frise fashions, which will be seen on al
most everything in wool and mixtures.
There was costume complete for gar
den party, which will describe partly for
It's own beauty and partly because the gem
sral style will be reproduced Immediately
for many handsome fall dresses. One Is
10 be made 20 order In ashes OF roses ar
mure, with black lace trimmings. This Is
Of delicate salmon pink taffeta with
cream shades. The skirt is full all around,
though cut with fine cores. The cores are
not very sharp, and that leaves ample
width TO make clusters of fine narrow
Dlaits at the waist line all the way around.
Between these clusters there are double