The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-06-16
THE N0MhN
OF FRSHION

augurated with fervOr and conducted oy
all the aristocracy of duchesses. count
esses and marquises that Paris could mus
ter. The poor Of the hospitals and schools
doubtless feel more honored when nobil-
ity interests itself in their welfare OF
deigns to preside at booth where the
work Of their humble fingers is displayed.
Although for that matter republican
France takes titles and patronage very
coolly as a rule. The Amerlcans love
Of a title seems to be matter of some
curiosity. and perhaps a little contempt
to the average Partisan. high or low.
A grand bazaar was among the great
successes of charitable enterprises this
month. On the afternoon l visited II
the large room was overlooking with pa
tronesses and their friends. Fashion had
done its utmost to make the scene a
bright one. As / entered the softly swing
ing door 1 saw that the first table just
inside of it was presided over by the Com
Jesse deus. The lady was earnestly en-
gagged in selling cushions. Her light silk
dress Of fine stripe in pink and white was
simply made, with close-ftting bodice.
The Princess Blanche of Orleans. whose
booth was next in order was true to her
a soft crepon skirt of palest gray. Bug
the bodice was white-a pure, dead white
of clear guaze. Front and back there
was a double bib arrangement, falling
loosely from neck to belt. Each end cf
the fiat bibs was made of alternate hor-
izontal bands of mousseline and deep YET
low lace, edged With lace. At the neck
was broad pink satin band, and beneath
the loose bibs. at the belt. another. Tie
hat vivid burnt yellow straw, the fav-
orite color with Parisans, was all nous
seline puffings and yellow lace.
The Duchess dues wore most pecul-
lar gown. A combination of dark blue and
d green not quite so dark doesn't sound
well, and struck the observer rather Gu
riOusly at first. But the green was of
happy tint, sort of rich leaf shade, cal
culated to harmonic with almost any col
or. Listen, then, to madame's gown; Skirt,
all Of the green satin, with the short,
graceful godcts, spreading out just at the
feet. ana each godet outlined with light
wheel pattern in black passementerlei
bodice, altogether tight fitting at the back,
with generous upper half of the blue vel
vet. and scantler lower half of the green
satin, edged with q rufiie of blue that
stopped undercach arm.
The front of the bodice was more intri-
cate. 1t started with a most magnificent
chemisette, long and pointed, of royal
cream lace laid over the green The body
of the bodice was of the blue, tightly fit
ting. Up over the chemsette at the sides,
came putilings of green satin, heavily hung
with jet ornaments anc fringe. Madame
sleeves were very beautiful made in length
wise bands of the rich insertion of the
chemisette, and of green satin, with the
cuff trimmed with double bands of the
lace. Her small bonnet was imply a row
of tea and deep crimson roses, with velvet
petals, closely set together, with a green
spangled ornament at one side.
But, though madame and her pretty table
seemed very popular, it was not there that
the crowd was thickest. All forces seemed
turned one way-toward the buffet, at the
far end. There were all the freshest, the
prettiest of gowns. here were all of the
dainties the French are famous for; here
maidens in airy mousseline blouses, with
arms half barred, were offering champagne
cups TO their masculine friends. Here all
the crowd were standing, nibbling first at
one cOnfection, then al another-there was
not more than bite in one of them-sip-
ping champagne and indifferently running
UP pretty bills, which the patronesses were
delighted to present, and the gallant escort
doubtless only too pleased to pay. No one
utilized the little tables at the side Why
should they? One could neither see nor
be seen in the remote corners. So that at
both sides of the long table there We're
bright faces and brighter gowns without
number.
Among those which offered temptingly,
| saw two of the prettest dresses. One
was a charming combination of softest
heliotrope and delicate turquoise. Worn
and puffed all about her small head, the
tints seemed all the more delicate. She
had the good sense to leave the heavy
corded silk skirt in heliotrope severely
plain.
The foundation of Nhe corsage was also
the heliotrope, but Ii was closely covered
by fine guipure forming small figaro
with flying fronts. A chemsette of pleated
mousseline, collar of the same, and re-
vers OF corded silk were all of the tur-
quoise.
In the center of the blonde frizzes clus-
tered small bunch of forget-me- nots.
Number two was much simpler. A del
icate old rose taffeta blouse, surmounted
a rich, black silk skirt, quite plain over
the blouse, slightly continuing, We're bands
stretching from neck to belt, of the same
rose color, lightly embroidered in black
A graceful bow was about her neck of
pieated black crepe lisse, with long ends
OF the crepe in front At the back II was
not drawn closely up to the neck, but car
rled beneath pink putting, and held down
with loops of black ribbon. The girl
looked much cooler with the rufile quite
away from the neck.
But what is the style in Paris. and what
IS to be the style? Is there anything new?
Are we never to get beyond expanding
skirts, expanding sleeves, expanding blou-
ses, and pulled collars? Or, rather, are
we never going to stop short of them?
1t would seem not, for the present at
the modistes are following along this line
the same style as we have been having,
except perhaps, slight eXaggeratiOn
OF them, and at the same time a gen
eral striving after simplicity of effect
simplicity sounds oddly to even the cas-
ual observer, in view of the present exag-
gerauons in costuming. But that modiste
VINO produces most bouffant costumes
and yet presents. in some slight measure
cessful.
The notion of simplicity makes the
Wearer of blouse smile, for does she not
Know how intricate is its composition in
reality; how blouse, then belt then chem
lsette, collar and lace or ribbon must he
carefully hooked, one after another?
Blue is still the color of the streets Of
Parls; one sees ii everywhere in the Trim
ming of gowns and hats-not as a founda-
tion color But it is not, emphaticallv
the color Of that class which rolls in lie
carriages on the Bots de Bologne every
me afternoon. There 1t is carefully ia
nooed as belonging to the masses. Ii bids
lalr therefore. to soon die out
sectional sleeves are shown moro II,
the new models of Doucet than the sim
PIE 6ouffant puff. The puffs are drawn
lnto iengthwise bands, or caught IN with
snaH bands or other ornament. The AL
ternate bands of silk and lace and the
a;ccordlon-pleated puff oncthe lighter bod
ICES are much worn. Tasteless as the
tsshlon is, sleeves rarely, or never. on
me, trimmed bodice match the waist
elther IN material or color. The color is
generally that of the trimming. the ma