The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-08-11

guests" The decorations of the rest of
the rooms was most appropriate, consist
ing of many plants and great garlands OF
roses.
East the new blue and white Trenton
ware has been warmly received, there be-
ing quite rage for blue and white rooms,
and blue and white sets of china. This
artistic production comes in odd, quaint
and beautiful shapes and designs.
Some of it has found its way out here,
and quite lost my heart to tall artlstl-
cally shaped vase with most picturesque
little shepherdess on it. This ware is about
the same price as lockwood, and is an
American production OF which we have
reason to be proud. The productions OF
our potteries and porcelain factories have
been causing much wonder and common
dation in Europe. Hundreds of women
are now employed to originate tasteful
and lovely designs for this home industry.
Large, round toques are in high favor.
One from Paris which has been admired
is trimmed with a large red rose on either
side, mingled with small white lilies, and
large outstanding, fan-shaped algrettes OF
white lace complete 1t.
White yelling with small black dots is
much worn by many OF our bellies.
One of our fashion-leaders, who is tall
and stately, lately wore in London, at the
Coburg garden party, gown which
abounds in valuable suggestions for many
women. The skirt was of black satin, full,
plain and gored, lined with large checked
black and white silk, over which ran
little design in pale pink flowers. The
exquisitely fitted bodice was entirely
yelled in black tulie, closely pieated, but
under a deep yoke collar of cut jet. The
sleeves were of the big check lowered silk,
large and graceful, and turned back at the
wrist with a full pleated gauntlet cuff.
Around the well-rounded waist was cir
die and fringed basque OF jet, which fell
artistically almost to the bottom of the
skirt, finished with deep points back &, and
front, and forming network OF brilliant
rays The bonnet worn with this costume
was of Jet, trimmed with ospreys and
shaded orchids.
The new fashion for women to load
themselves with jewelry during the day
time is not meeting with approval in the
set, it being such horrid bad taste. For
instance, in IAN Ideal Husband" Mabel
Chiltern was much criticized for wearing
necklaces, pins and rings galore with her
morning dress, which as dress was cbarm-
| ing, but absurd for that hour, being en-
broidered with glittering sequins
| Buckles, clasps, pendants, earrings, even
| collars of pearls and diamonds are worn by
some while the sun still is shining, and the
| effect is far from good, especially when
| young married women and even girls so
| adorn themselves.
| Emeralds are quite the rage at present,
| and the much-loved Empress Elizabeth
| has the greatest fondness for them and
possesses the most marvellous set in the
world Her love for these gems is SO well
known that twenty years ago, when the
sented her with watch made OF single
emerald of perfect color and shape, which
depended from a chatelain of diamonds
and emeralds of fabulous value.
| Apropos OF watches, one of our most cele-
brated jewellers has at last designed watch
which can appropriately be fastened to the
| shoulder or hip of a ball dress. 1t looks
like a large daisy OF diamonds, "the center
of which, exqusitely honeycombed, is of
dull gold, and represents the heart of the
| flower. This center opens upon the pres
sure OF tiny spring and discloses per-
| feet little timepiece." Many other flowers
will be used, and for those not able to af-
| ford diamond daisies there are to be had
| flowers with enameled petals, and here and
| there diamond dewdrop.
| The latest news from Paris is cheering,
| for we are informed that all absurd exag-
gerations of dress have vanished and that
| gowns are becoming more and more taste
| full and thoroughly artistic, so we may ex-
pect unusually beautiful costumes this
| winter.
! Almost by the same mail we hear that
Mrs. Curzon formerly Miss Letter of Chi
cago)is acquiring a greater popularity even
| than her husband, and is credited with
having won his last political battle for him.
| Lady Naylor-Levland formerly Miss
! Jennie Chamberlin of Cleveland) and Mrs.
| Evans, who was Miss Marie de Grasse
| Stevens, an American, both took prominent
| parts in the late elections, greatly assisting
| their husbands. So, after all, our women
are not married merely because they have
skin-deep beauty, nor because of papa s
| ducats.
| The rage for Malmaison carnations con-
tinues. ard the growing plants as well as
! the cut blossoms figure at almost every
| fashionable function.
Some novel hatpins lately shown con-
| sist of large pearls set in little baskets of
diamonds.
Ordinary crepons have become very COM
mon owing to the large clearance sales of
| them during this season. However, the
| fine silky ones hold their own, and are
seen used as skirts for many beautiful cos
tunes. Especially is the creamy white in
demand at present for entire gowns. One
beautiful with its full rose silk lined skirt
bodice of the crepon. with cascade of lace
in 'front.' divided by lace insertions, under
which showed rose silk Innings and pink
chiffon sleeves. This creation would be
charming for bridesmaids dress.
l want to caution the owners of valuable
laces against attempting to mend it them
selves. Such intricate and delicate work
| should be confided to a specialist, as
| stitches cannot be ripped out without
running the cobwebby fabric. MARcELLA.