The San Francisco call., 1895-11-17

: Evening gowns are now receiving much
attention, and not few very exquisite
ones have been seen at recent dinners and
A frock of rosy taffeta, yelled
with smoky colored mousseline de sole en-
broidered with q dainty green vine, is
artistic. Green and rosy pink ribbons
form waistband and sash with long ends
at the back:
~. Il 4 X X 4
= "A dress fancy is of lime-green silk; the
skirt is. set in pleats all round, and the
bodice has a Marie Antoinette fichu of
finest lace, which falls gracefully over i'm
mense sleeves. Black satin will hold It's
own. for both young and elderly matrons
find it wonderfully becoming for dinner
gowns. The'rich fabric is usually elabor-
ately embroidered with cut jet or tiny
sequins-one such CONNECTION had the en-
tire skirt, excepting the front breadth,
powdered with sequins. The bodice had a
deep belt of the same fabric buttoned with
diamonds The corsage was Of the satin,
Completely covered with jetted net, which
also formed deep frill around the low
cut neck and also formed the sleeves. l
quote the description Of another black
satin evening dress: "It Doasted a bodice
:IudUS OF Dl8Ch net WIFI Il Wnlte IdCS dp-
phque,. traced with silver sequins." l
should suggest that the seams of such q
skirt should be outlined with the sequins,
and California violets would be great ad-
ditlon to the bodice.
-. X K X
:: I do not admire tea gowns made of this
material. Still they are fashionable If the
fronts are. of Pompadour or the blurred
Dresden silk. And that reminds me that
remarkably handsome Dresden and Persian
silks are to be had in our stores, indeed, a
Wonderfully complete stock is 20 be seen,
and tea gowns when composed OF these
Tofe fronts, are dreams of beauty which
not many can ind ulge in as they are extrav-
agaDces.
r X X X 4
:. From Paris comes the information that
Felix: greatly favors the Marie Antoinette
effects for evening wear, and he continues
tomake the skirt of dresses short, close on
the hips and gored at the seams, put in at
the waist behind in two large pleats, but
bands of fur or velvet. He is also trying
to bring in bodices pointed in front with a
little postillon. BASQUE at the back, close
fitting and much trimmed. This true ar
:tistis using extensively all sorts Of nov
city yekets, some of which be has made
*iIlto- blouses. Those of the Cashmere
blendings have met with much success.
The Genoa styles of brocades usually have
dull grounds over which are scattered
shaded flowers.
...."+ n X X X Il
Woolen gowns are frequently given the
necessary touch of color by the addition
of a. blue or green velvet stock. The
newest shades of blue most fashionable
and difficult to find are called 'bleu de
Sevres7 and tblue de roi." | saw belle
from across the bay few days ago clad in
one Of the new WOODEN fabrics. 1t had
dark blue ground over which were raised
dark lines. 1t was made absolutely plain
and@ftted to. perfection, but it owed its
velvet in the "bleu de Sevres" shade,
whieh:is remarkably becoming to blondes.
...@.:. Xxx X Il 4
T. We never see redingotes now made of
ANYTHING but the richest materials, and
they are always richly lined with colored
silk. One design in New York is of silk
velvet in a biscuit shade, over which are
scattered punches of small dark
crimson flowers. The vest of this garment
is of creamy lace over crimson silk, with
which. the: garment is lined throughout.
With it goes. a: skirt of biscult-colored
velvet lined with the bright silk. The
reyers are deeply notched and edged with
an exquisite and very narrow passemen-
terie.~ ::.::'--,
= Recently in Paris the Comtesse de Cas-
tellane (nee Could has worn two costumes
which were much admired; one was of
dark green cloth, made with plain skirt;
short bodice, with reyeres of white guipure
over silk She appeared in this at the
races; and in q dinner given in her honor
-oH ra1i in h1t
with silver. The neck of the low bodice
was surrounded with diamonds and span
giles. The sleeves were great billowy clouds
of the chiffon. Her Jewels were as usual
The Marquise de Castellane,
her stately mother-in law, wore a robe of
plain white satin, beautitied with priceless
lace.
: Velvet hats and toques are in vogue in
Paris. On the hats are seen costly plumes,
ma akinp headgears q serious consideration.
Phe trimmings usually give wide effect,
and are placed at either the back or sides.
Aigrettes continue to increase IN size, and
are either cut off at the top. giving bushy
effect. or they appear to grow out OF a
bunch of tips. Straight feathers are again
TO be seen in imported hats. and are
nplaced at the side in bows OF velvet"
X X Il Il
!, A few weeks ago l heard sad tale from
3 young housekeeper concerning TWO haiu-
some tabIecloths which had been scorched.
she asked if anything could be done to
restore them to their proper color. told
her at the time that l knew OF nothing
hat would produce the desired result, ana
here have Just found what is SAID to De
an excellent recipe for mildew and scorch:
: "Scorched linen may be restored to its
proper color by dampening it and laying 1t
out on the grass to bleach; the dampening
must be- many times repeated. The fol,
owing mixture will remove scorch ana
mildew: ounce curd soap, n pound
fuller,s earth, the juice of onions and
t. pint of vinegar. Spread it on the
scorched part and allow it to dry on, after
which rinse in clear water and let it dry.
The mixture may be put in pickle bottle,
sorked, and it will keep for some time."
:: ':--. X T. X X X