The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, 1895-09-08
HOW TURKISH WOMEN DRESS
Their Costume As It Is Not As Pictured
On the Stage.
THE YASHMAK AND ENTARRI.
The Shapeless Cloak. Brilliant Col
ors And Many Jewels-Ugliest
And Prettiest Dress in
the World.

I know OF no dress more comfortable
for lounging or more picturesque than
the Turkish woman's toilet. 1t is grace
full and.makes a part and parcel of its
surroundings. 1t is easy and, covered
as it generally is with almost barbaric
decoration. it is certainly the most in
tereSting native costume existing.
For those who receive their impress
sion of Turkish costume from the non
descript garments occasionally repre-
sented in theaters, or at fancy dress
balls, ! may destroy few illusions. but
Hthink that many will agree with me
in saying that it is at once the ugliest
and thefprettiest costume il the world
To begin at the beginning. The first
garment a Turkish lady puts on is
longsleeved chemise of Broussa crepe
gauze. shaped exactly like. the seam
less Holy Coat of Trebes. The neck
is cut out and deftly hemmed in
tiny close roll. Over this is then
wrought a, marrow edging of heavy
white sewing silk, the long straight
sleeves are finished. lin the same man.
ner. and so is the Bottom, of the gar
ment In some bases the edging is re-
placed by handsome silk hand
wrought lace of incredible beauty of
design and fineness.
The next garment to be added is the
trousers. These are made most aftent
of chintz and sometimes cretonne of the
most startling patterns and colOring.
1t takes four breadths to make them.
They are generally about four inches
longer than the leg, so that when the
drawing string at the top is tied in
'front.' they hang down over the ankle.
When out in wet weather they are
drawn up to the knees and tied there.
Two breadths are used for each leg,
and they are sewn up straight. The
hens at the bottom and top give the
tapes place to draw them into the re-
quired size.
the place of our trained skirts. This
consists of four breadths of cloth, cot
ton, wool. silk or satin. Sometimes 1t
is of the richest brocade. but it is just
as likely to be some new and brilliant
pattern of chintZ. The colors are most
striking in every instance. and no
thought of harmony of color ever en-
ters Turkish woman's head. Emerald
green, Prussian blue, pink violet, yell
low and red, will all be found together.
This entarri is not sewn together. Two
breadths are on the sides meeting in
front but falling away loosely. There
are two more in the back. These two
are sewn together half way down the
back. but not at all at the sides The
breadths are lined with contrasting
colors. and often very richly trimmed
around the edges. They are from one
yard and a half to two yards long, and
have more than the grace of our train
ed skirts in the house. In the street
they are Topped up so that no part
touches the ground.
The Turkish women do not wear
stockings, but knitted wooden socks,
often openworked most sskillfully, with
an admixture of silk threads. Some
are embroidered in colored silks and
gold thread. At home the Turkish wo-
man wears fanciful velvet slippers with
gold and jewelled embroidery. Out
side she may wear the shapeless great
papouches or she may wear French
buttoned boots. 1 have noticed in all
the Oriental countries that women
seem to pay scant attention to the at
traction of their feet, and wear the
most clumsy shoes and stockings i'm
aginable.
Next in order comes the sash
have often smiled at the artistic ideas
of many people regarding the grace
fully tied Sashes of the inmates of the
harem. The.sash in question Is as often
a clumsy shawl tied in many folds
around the waist, where it serves the
purpose of pocket. and also of holding
up the dragging shalVar. or pantaloons.
and the entarri. Sometimes it will be
a large kefi or square scarf, with long
fringed ends, and again it may be
long Broussa silk sash, also deeply
fringed But whatever it may be, it
always adds to the wearer's apparent
girth. Width around the hips and boFy
is considered a beauty. Therefore the
sash. Above this there is a jacket.
This jacket is shaped like an Eton in
stead of a Figaro, but all the portion
intended to cover the chest is cut away,
leaving the bust very much exposed. 1t
buttons at the waist-line with small
gold or jeweled buttons. This jacket
is made of silk. satin or velvet, and is
stiff1y embroidered with gold and sill