The sun., 1895-05-26

Tho California coast, from San Francisco
down, presents an endless succession of low,
rolling hills, treeless, but covered with grass.
which for . great part of the year 10 scar and
brown, but during tho winter rains takes on q
greensh tint. Tho further south It lies tho drier
- tho country and the fainter the tinge Of green
even in the wet season. The hills with their
bare. swelling crests and softly curving holows,
look as II covered with tho softest Of fawn-col-
ored velvet. and nothing could be moro exquisite
than their melting. shifting hues, with the fair,
blue sky above and the liquid blue of tho water
beneath. Such coloring is only to be seen in dry
and barren lands, and to the greatest perfection
in the desert-it 10 opalescent, strange. intense.
yet elusive.
At San Diego. in tho extreme southwestern
corner Of tho United States, is one of tho few
harbors of our Pacific shore. and here the ship
makes q stop of some hours. In this region the
q much greater height. Some peaks can be seen
plainly that are seventy-five or o hundred miles
from the shore. and as much as 1000 feet high.
These are often capped with snow.
From San Diego the vessel steers westward to
the Coronado Islands, dcsolate group. haunted
by sea birds, the largest Island not more than
two or three miles long. Thence she runs down
the coast of Lower California, past the same
ceaseless succession of hills, which. however,
continually grow sleeper. browner. and moro
parched, till toward tho southern end. tho land
Is veritable mountain desert, scarcely able to
maintain its scanty growth Of sage brush. Half
way down are to be seen the sharp peaks OF tho
two barren and unwatered islands of San Beni-
10. to the east of which lies Cerros Island dncor-
recty given on some maps as Cedros). A spring
Of excellent water has made this q stopping
place for ship,. Lately a fortunate proepsctor
has also discovered there o deposit Of tho
precious metals. and the orc is now being mined
and exported. Gold and silver arc undoubtedly
to DO found on the mainland. which is q contin.
nation Of the Californian formations. but tho
Indians drive OF or kill all prospectors wishing
TO keep the country for themselves. These
same Indians. however. by some rough process.
pound the gold out of the rocks. and from them
1t can sometimes be bought.
About three -fourths of the distance down tho
peninsula Cape San Lazaro comes in sight
This, with tho adjacent islands. encloses Mag
dGlena Bay, where, in late winter and early
spring. sperm whales congregate. and where
there has long been a whaling station.
The final view Of the Californian peninsula Is
caught in rounding Cape st. Lucas, the south
ernmost extremity of this arid land. where ono
might fancy the submits Of tho most barren Of
the Rocky Mountains had been transported to
the borders of the sea. Yet oven into the heart
of this desolate and forsaken spot mon have
pushed their way, and at the very point of the
cape are two or three little white houses belong
ing to q cattle ranch.
Here. or q little further to the north, the ship
Is abandoned by tho flock of gulls which have
pursued it In quest Of the fragments of food
thrown overheard, and their place Is taken by a
species of albatross. The gulls of tho Pacific
are fat, clumsy. peari-colored creatures. with q
droll air of stupid self-complacency. but this
albatross 10 a moro alort bird. thinner. much
darker In color. and with long narrow wings
like hawks.
II Is usually rough at the mouth of the Gulf Of
California, for tho prevailing wind is from the
north. and the sea raised by this when 1t meets
the ocean swell produces y peculiar combination
of motions. calculated to disconcert tho oldest
sailor. But tho ship on which had embarked
was fortunate, and when 1t reached this uneasy
region. there was neither wind nor motion of
any kind and the sea was as fiat as the deck.
Directly across the gulf lies Mazatlan, tho FIRST
port of call In Mexico. The steamship company
has contract with the Mexican Government
by which, In return for $4,000 year they not
only carry tho mails. but arc bound to lie for