The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-09-09
THE ARE OLE BUDDING.

IL - llIlS 10 IIllnh ABOUT DIS
at this period the layer of new wood
under the bark is soft and in the right
condition to receive the bud and the
bark peels freely, says a writer in
Field and Farm. If it begins to adhere
only slightly the work will fail The
usual time for the apple, pear and
plum is August; ounce cherry on ma
haleib, and peach, September; cherry
on common cherry in July. Roses can
be budded in July and often later AS
to the size of the stock so to be bud
ded, half an inch in diameter does
well. but with care a much larger
size can be budded and considerable
smaller size. The best place on the
stock to put the bud is generally with
in a few inches of the ground But
when budding is done in the branches
of a large tree, ones own Judgment
must direct. Budding in the branches
of large tree is good way to test
new varieties quickly, especially new
| peaches. The buds are obtained from
| sclons of the current seasons growth.
AS soon as the scion is cut the leaves
are to be cut off all but about a third
of an inch of the footstalk; this foot
stalk being left to hold the bud by
buds are in the middle of the SCION
so that the usual way is to cut off and
rejece a few inches of the immature
point, and the same Of the butt, the
! buds on the latter part usually being
too small. These prepared sticks OF
buds are to be kept in damp cloth
and cool place until used. In cut
ting the scions, it is best to get them
from bearing tree in order to insure
accuracy. The budding knife should
have keen edge, thin blade and
the point rounded to nearly the quar-
ter of circle. Frequently there is a
thin piece of bone or ivory attached
to the handle with which to raise the
bark; but the builder will soon learn
to do this with the rounded point of
the knife. When ready for work a
smooth place in the stock is selected,
and there is an upright incision made
clear through the bark. A short hor-
izontal incision is made across the up
per end of the first. The bark is then
raised by pressing the point of the
knife against the cut edges with
kind of lifting motion, beginning at
the upper end of the incision and pro-
ceeding downward, with special care
so as not to touch the soft new wood
under the bark The bud is taken and
placed in the upper end of the incis-
ion under the bark and pushed gently
down to the lower end. If a. piece of
the bark of the bud projects above the
| incision it should be cut off, making
a neat fit Trying to exclude air and
moisture should be done at once, be-
ginning at the lower end and covering
all the inciSion, but leaving sout the
footstalks and the point of the bud
This completes the opration In a
week or ten days it may be known if
the bud has taken by the piece of
fna OF l.
If it has dried and sticks fast there is
failure. But if the bark still peels
freely, the work may be repeated,
choosing a different place on the stock
to make the incision. The tying may
remain three weeks unless it begins
to cut into the stock by reason of the
growth of the latter, in which case
unite and Immediately replace more
loosely. After untieing at the end of
three weeks, nothing more needs to be
done until the succeeding spring,
when if the bud is in good condition,
the stock is to be cut off two or three
inches above the bud.
In addition to what is said above,
we wish to add that it is good practice
to place the bud on the north side of
the stock or branch in which it is in
serted, as by so doing it is protected
from the direct rays of the sun.
Always make it a point TO have the
bud correspond in size, as much as
possible, with the stock to be budded
A bud often dies for the lack of this
precaution, when the operator might |
have saved it by taking little care
to harmonic the two in size.
For wraps take common bleached !
sheeting, which is better than calico,
as it tears better and has less starch |
in it. Seven-cent goods, or perhaps a |
still cheaper article, is better than the !
nine, as it is strong enough and not /
so hard to strip up. Cloth that has
been washed once or twice is better /
than new stuff. Strip off widths of two
sizes, for different sized trees. half /
inch and inch widths. 1t is also good I
plan to have some even narrower for /
very small trees. Fold these strips |
over end to end three times for con-
venience in handling.
Some prefer to use waxed wraps, |
claiming better success by their use. |
They are prepared as follows:
Take common beeswax and to ev-
cry ten pounds of it add a piece of |
resin the size of an egg. This will be |
enough to make the strips more te- /
nacious in adhering to the tree. In |
summer use nothing else, but in the I
fall when the wraps stiffen with the /
cold, use enough pure beef tallow to I
make the wraps pliable. Have the |
wax in a large, fiat pan, and bring it /
nearly TO boil. The reason for this is I
that the wraps take up less of it, and 7
one can get along faster, saving both I
wax and time. Take two sharp-point-
ed sticks about fifteen inches long. |
made as smooth possible, and use as
follows: Drop several of the strips in
to the wax. and with one stick in the |
left hand slip it under the middle of
the strip, raise it up. and with the |
other stick in the right hand quickly I
press the strip on the edge of the pan. |
thereby saving the surplus wax, and /
drop the strip on a mat kept for that /
purpose.
The strips, when cold enough, can
be caught by one corner and they will /
unfold themselves, when they can be
hung on a line or Stat to cool. IF al
lowed to lie too long they will stick
together. Do not make very many
ahead as they are much better fresh. [
They will nj stick oil If