Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-09-21
Widespread Use of Alcoholic Liquor
in Mexico,
.PULQUE Is TEE PEON'S Triple
While Wine and Brandy Are Used
by the Upper Classes.
AN AMERICAN DIsTnLERY

Core sponderce Of The Evening Star.
CITY OF MEXICO, September H. 1895.
The City of Mexico will soon have a real
innovation in the shape Of a distillery, an
American enterprise, and John Barleycorn.
Of native manufacture, will be found upon
the shelves Of wholesale dealers. usually
termed repositories here, and will be re-
tailed over the bars Of cantinas. the Mexi-
can name equivalent to our word saloon.
although the latter Is by no means q rare
word in Mexican cities, its prevalence prob
ably being due to the growing English
speaking patronage. The distillery referred
to is the enterprise of some Peoria, ILL.,,
parties, and will be the first to open up In
the republic Of Mexico.
There are several very good breweries.
notably at Toluca, San Lois. Monterey.
Orizaba and Puebla, all enjoying excellent
trade. Neither are wines manufactured to
any very great extent in Mexico, notwith-
standing a vast amount is consumed. Some
very good domestic wine comes from Par
ras. in the state of Durango, but the
greater portion Is imported from France.
California wines are used to q limited ex-
tent but their consumption appears to be
on the increase. Toquilla and mescal are
alcoholic liquors distilled from pulque.
The latter Is typical f1rewater.
The president Of the republic sets an ex-
ample Of abstemiousn ess. I have seen him
at banquets where many times he raised
and toasts, but never drinking. There can
be little II any doubt Of the financial sue
cess OF the distillery enterprise II a good
article is produced and sold at a reason
able price. Mexicans, as a rule. will have
none but the best. The consumption of
various drinks in Mexico, wine brandy,
whisky, champagne. lager beer, &C., to
say nothing Of the native product. pulque.
drank principally by the lower classes is
simply surprising.
The Drinking Custom.
Custom in Mexico does not frown upon
the drinker, but rather encourages him;
liquors are drank at the table with as much
freedom as milk or coffee The prohibi-
Zionist is unheard Of here: on the other
hand, drunkenness Is rarely seen, and its
victim Is severely Stunned. A dinner for a
home gathering with single invited guest,
no less than q fashionable spread with
many Ind distinguished guests, would be
esteemed seriously lacking In a leading es-
sential Of hospitality were not wines and
past.
On more or less pretentious occasions
there Is q cocktail first as an appetizer,
then sherry. then a choice sauterne. then
passed. the glasses always being kept well
filled by the walters. Midway IN the bill
Roman punch stares at one as some sort
OF intermission; then follows old port,
are fond of sweetmeats or rich Candies,
and OF cakes covered with pastes or jellies,
also fruits When the guest is about to
leave the table, trusting some power Of To-
comotion Is yet left, he is reminded that q
small glass Of brandy and a cafe noir are
appropriate as a finale to the, dinner, or
may be intermingled with the after-dinner
conversation and cigars.
Enjoyed by Americans.
Most Americans like Mexican dining Gus
toms and adopt them. They like them be-
cause of their Bohemianism. Here they
eat, drink and live pretty much as they
please. Upon all formal social occasions
refreshments are served, while the smok-
ing and drinking apartment is carefully
prepared adjunct. to which the gentlemen
resort at will to vary the pastime. Of the
evening and to chat upon current events
Parties by Americans or other foreigners
are arranged and conducted very much in
accordance with Mexican customs. After
the dancing or other festivities have lasted
three or four hours the assembly, OF a por-
ton thereof. is ushered into the dining
room.
If seats are limited, the ladies' sit. and
the gentlemen stand, or occupy themselves
serving the fair ones To be strictly formal,
this arrangement continues until The ladies
.arIES ~ .. 20 .uI ~. VI .no
ssLt.ei9en " Partahe. inns pan ID seioom
aunere4 70 however, amohs the amer.
leans po.n Sexes gong " INC IeIreshment
Iooin anu oIIns tosether. mexico - CITY
OF CLUBS, restaurants ana Gomez houses;
snoWns tnat the wants ana the cuitivated
uesires OF the INNER man are wen atienaeo
so. from cary IN the evening IN iaIe
q HgnI they are throngeo with well.
dressed Me4lcans ana 1alr sprlnkllng OF
foreigners. IN 1act' one OF the most strik-
ing features OF the Mexican capital Is the
ABUNDANT leisure nearly every one seems to
nave. fernaps the enJoyapie climate IS re-
sponsloie. Tor even the rushing American.
after rev weeks OF observation ana re-
nection, oecloes IL 10 Dc convenient ana
sensible way TO i've.
How Pulque is Made.
49,
Fulque' the haeVe drink Id exuacteo
from the maguey plant, q species OF the
American aloe, that grows readily in an
arid soiI wehster calls n of fha penua
-. A, ,,o,s,o- e. r,.da ,n+, ~. 49,
asae. al 1Iison 40 nauo ln.o 'Ne Ai.iei
side OF the thick, pointed blades. growing
upright four or five feet, to the number Of
a dozen or co. from a common stalk. The
LIQUOR, when extracted, is emptied into pig
skins. in which it is taken to the puluueries
-puloue saloons. II ia often hauled ir.
wagons. but the, puloue railway trains
bring great Quantities. daily to the canital
civ. The fresher. the mora palatable il ia
Pu1nua ia of a nnilkv color about the ron.