davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning times., 1895-07-14
RECORD OF THE COURTS.

Circuit Court. No. >, Chief Justice BinG.
ham-GregOry VS.. RittenhoUse: motion for
security of costs sustained. Gilbert vs.
COnger; motion to set aside Judgment Of
Conde mnatiOn sustained Baltimore &
Ohio Railway Company VS.. kehl; Judgment
by default only, waving all damages
StrattOn vs. Git; Judgment on motion
Circuit Court, No. 2, Justice Cole
Copeland & Durgin Us. LansbuFg; Judgment
by default
Equity Court, No 1 Chief Justice Bing-
hanl-HenderSon and others vs.. National
Sanitary: reference Co auditor ordered.
Desmond VS. Leitch; sale ratified niSi.
Campbell VS. Porter; F J. Heilinger allowed
TO intervene. Pennsylvania Railroad COM
pany VS. Brown; paymentOf solicitors from
fund in registry ordered Anglo-American
Savings and Loan Association vs. SpaIding;
F s. Siddons and William II. ShOles ap-
pointed receivers.
Probate COurt-PrOceedingS in estates,
as follows. Barbara OfenStein; VIII and
codiciI fully proved SeIwin I Jones;
order diSmisSing petition OF Martha Jones.
Rueben S Parks; final notice issued on
motion of Ellen s. Parks, administrators,
appointing August 9 for settlement. Bishop
W Perkins; final notice issued on appli-
cation of Louise E Perkins. administrative,
appointing August 1G for settlement Rob
ert B. Hine; Matte NJ G. Hine gave special
! bond and qualified as executTix.
The morning times., 1895-07-14
Bob Burdefte
On modern Legs
CAUSE OF THE NEW WOMAN
RESTS ON THEM.
Robert is Sure That the Ernanci-
pated Woman is Here With
Both Feet.

Copyright, 1895, by Bachelor, Johnson &
Bacheller.)
Sisters, the palloT in the East tells us that
the Herald-daily edition-of the dawn is
speeding up the slopes of the Orient; little
while and the rosy fingered hours will paint
the day red. Emancipation is on its way
by Adam and Ewes express. Yea, II is
even now here, with both feet.
How do | know this? How does the
cautious prophet become dead certain OF
anything? BY keeping his eyes open, taking
both papers, and waiting patiently until
the event has prophesied itself. That's
how.
day or two since | was trying TO bring
order out of the eternal chaos which ever
rules in the jungle which l cali my den, de-
batting within myself whether to go on
with the regular order or go out and set fire
10 the house. the shorter and sometimes
more profitable. and certainly under any
circumstances, least expensive method of
cleaning house A hasty but hurried in
vestigation revealed the depressing fact that
my fire insurance had lapsed some twain
years erst / sighed and went on with the
task OF restoring a semblance OF order in
side. The women folk sighed twice 10 my
once. SO / was also outsghed. Singed
copies of this viii be sent on application.
A ten cent stamp must accompany each
The morning times., 1895-07-14

TO the fichu and this soon merged into
variation of the little shoulder capes famil-
lar for two years past Clearly it is not
a reminder OF Marie Antoinette that the
public wants. The long shoulder persists,
particularly in evening dress, but 1T al
ways suggests 1880. and has not yet
reached the stage of annihilation. Its sole
significance appears to be n reaction from
shoulders that have been too high The
turhan idea of more interest is developed
in certain hat trimmings, where the band
is drawn tight under an Overhanging
crown, and tied at one side with an un-
pretending bow and a feather thrust into
the knot, like that worn by Marie Antoi-
nette in a familiar portrait by Lebrun.
Also in an evening COiffure, with chiffon
tied il rosette on one side OF the head and
a scarf passing thence across the top to
end in another knot on the other side,
mass OF curls being pushed forward Of the
rosettes over each ear, in way suggest
ing a portrait of Lcbrun herself. AS to
the flowered fabrics. they possibly give
more sign Of permancnce than the rest,
though it would be rash to predict a con-
quest for what has been tried so many
times and has hitherto failed.
THE MANUFACTURERS DIFFICULTIES.
Often enough in the last hundred years
the manufacturers have pressed figured
stuffs upon the public, but never with any
permanent success The fault has not been
with the dressmakers, nor cOnscientiOusly
with the public. Western taste has not
been able to assimilate them.
In England there Is TO be noticed an ef-
fort to put flOweTed silks upon the fashion
by artificial forcing, but the movement
Will come To naught for the simple reason
that they cannot be worn. The only oppor
tunity for them is in the court trains, and
court trains are not worn every day. The
ordinary dress of English women is more
| severely given over To form and style at
! the expense of decoration than that of
! Paris. and a tailor gown made of brocade
| would be nothing short OF an inTamy. Evi-
| dently the unpopularity of flowered fabrics
| is not understood or else the recent appeal
| to Englishwomen would not have been made
! to help on the industry by wearing flowered
vests. The form of mems dress is even
more antagoniStic TO decorated stuffs than
! is that of the women It is about as near
! ly an outer skin as 1t is possible for dress
! to be- Men look no more pretty than women
| do with a tattoo spread over the abdomen,
! and even the high patronage of the Prince
| of Wales, which has been solicited, can
| not make such an idea acceptable to fash
| ion. If it is tried one of two things
! will happen: either it viii be dropped as
soon as the novelty ceases to amuse or
| else it will modify the form of mems dress,
! developing the vest into long skirted
wastcoat such as was fashionable when
men did formerly wear brocadeS. Which
| it is likely to be there is no need to ask.
The form of garment that suits decorated
The morning times., 1895-07-14
French modes
Of Midsummer
PARTISAN MODISTES WORK
ING ON NOVELTIES.
Difficulties in the Way-The
Bishop Sleeve and Valois
are Successes.

There is a crisis in dress The late style
has exhausted itself and need is to start
fresh on new. Which is not as easy as
saying Jack Robinson, or as making a
novel garment out of an accidental mis-
cut, though the majority OF folks may
SO think.
For much js to be considered. There
must be, for one thing. an understanding
between the dressmakers aud the manu-
facturers, so that harmony shall exist
between the material aud the form. Much
also is to be sensitively felt; for if a style
is TO run the legitimate cycle of style,
which is to say course Of two or three
years, it must reflect social conditions
Various things have been tried and aban-
doned. The moment is difficult
Fashion all spring has been turning over
and over the modes Of the past hundred
years or so, tc see If among them are any
that may serve as point OF new depart
ure. A number have been Set up TO try
what the public would have to say to them
models of the Louis XVI. and Of the 1880
10 period mainly. And thus far these tent
ative models have been the only novelties
Of the season.
REJUV VENATING OLD STYLES.
among the principal revlvals have been
fjchus, turbans, long shoulder seams called
1880, and flowered material
The fichu came from the wardrobe of
Marie Antoinette, which wardrobe, of the
Tranon period, was early III March laid
before Parisians in play at the Porte st.
Martin, eXquisitely reconstructed by Dou-
Get. Everybody said Of these costumes:
Behold the new styles! 1t is Doucet that
has lanced the mode. But it was not so.
The movement Louis XVI dwindled down
The morning times., 1895-07-14

now, behold you, she can kick back
That is the gall of it. We have foolishly
let the genius out OF her bottle, and she isn't
all smoke, after all. She is 'Onto US" tt
is not denied that she smokes cigarettes.
Not under the rose, but whenever and wher-
ever she sees fit. I5 is whispered in large,
clear print, that she tipples more than
her grandmother did. 1t is in evidence that
when the governor of New York tainted on
Decoration Day, in all the crowd of both
sexes on the reviewing stands, the gov
ernors of neither of the CarolinaS being
present the only pocket pistol TO be found
was in the pocket of young lady, and twas
loaded to the muzzle with good old brandy
of the" drnkerdown brand" Andit wasn't
inone of ofthehidden pockets which Iastyear's
woman carried concealed ON her person,
either Because il was found inside of
half an hour. 1t came out as prompt
ly as the flask of candidate. Yea, more
promptly, for there were candidates on that
stand for every office in the United States,
from P resident down, and not flask among
'en, savein the pockets of this woman. Here
sister; take the trousers. Bg years, yes,
generations of brave endurance and patient
persistence you have WON 'em nObly; wear
'em with honor. Put 'em onl You can't
put 'em on over your headl Such is the
strength of habit You see, you have some
NANNY ways yet to learn before you ac-
quire them. Farewell, oh fellow man, a
long farewell to all our bifurcated and
distinguished greatnessl
Who steals my purse-and many time
while We have slept
Hath she done this-steals trash. 'Tis
something, tho oftener
Nothing. Especially after she goes through
it,
Twas ours, when it had anything in it;
It's hern,
Now that tbs empty as last years birds
nest.
But she that filches from us our good
pantaloons-
Not TO trade off for plaster paris gods
to some wandering dagoes,
But to bedeck her 1.-THE, emancipated
walking things
Robs us of that which not euriches her,
So far as grace of figure and celestial bear :
ing is concerned,
But makes US poor indeed, the while the
biting wind
Sighs bIeakly round our bare and shrunken
ShankS.
ROBERT J. BURDETTE.
The morning times., 1895-07-14

gracefully slender below; the Rouff gigot,
which broke out into wonderful butter
flies or bows; the Felix sleeve, etc. One,
at least, of the new sleeves that would
supplant it has not this versatility. When
everybody has got a bishop sleeve, every
body Will have got one, and all will be
said and done. Or, so it seems, for it
is all of a width to the wrist, and is
there confined into a band. However,
there is no knowing what the dresSmakers
may do when it comes to the pinch, for
their resources are inscrutable.
ANOTHER SLEEVE NOVELTY
Another new sleeve, with more seeming
possibilities in the way of design, is that
which has been transformed out of the
doubled ruffle 1t is enormously wide, and
is particularly beautiful when accordion
plated The blouse should be plated, too,
and as the edge of the blouse falls in
balloon, and drops to the elbow like
line with the edge of the sleeve, the effect
is somewhat that of cape In delight
full gown for Trouville is seen this idea in
modification. The skirt is of alpaca, pale
mauve, the blouse of mauve mOusSeline de
sole, ACCORDION plated, and falling over
the belt all round, and the sleeve is an ac-
cordeon plating of the mousseline, that
falls to the elbow and is confined round
the armhole with huge puff OF deep yio-
let Satin wide over the arm and growing
narrower underneath, sling shape. The
upper edge of this puff is set in the arm
seam, violet bel6. The neck has pearl
embroidered mauve passementerie set in
and shaped in a sort of gusseG form, with
q point in back and front, building it up
| to the ears, and over this turns a muslin
| needleworked Valois collar with very orig
| inal effect.
Close caps are at the tops of many sleeves,
| which throws the fullness down low on the
| arm in 1880 style, and as it gets more and
more the fashion to cut shoulder seams
| very long, these caps furnish n good way
| to lengthcn down shoulder made too
| high.
| NECK DECORATIONS.
That opera bouffe neck garniture that
consists OF magic bunch under each ear
| has died the death from excess. When
uch gearing come to be hung like sausage
in the shops at a few sous apiece its day
| is done. Elegance has supplanted it with
| the Valois, that is to say, with turnover
| collar. Cuffs MAJ be worn or not, but the
| collar is obligatory; it is the latest chic.
The burning and difficult question. of
The morning times., 1895-07-14

misanthropic hornet does when he volunta-
rily takes part in the closing exercises
OF camp-meeting
Does my lady sit down for a little light
conversation? she Ianguidly sinks, with
most sinuouS DelSartean grace, upon Il
sofa carrying deck-load OF cushions and
displays straightway an eXpanse of slip
pered foot, clocked ankle and adjacent
anatomy that makes bashful man so
nervous he instinCtiyely hides his own fee;
under his chair, and forgets what he was
going TO say. She rides to the hounds -
or is it "awfter the 'ounS?"-with a dis
play OF legs that makes the Iong-limbed
dog take second place, although he had
two TO her one TO begin with, and you
would naturally suppose she started out
heavily handicapped. And as though leg
was the soul of the animate universe, last
summer the equestrian woman had a fad
of having her saddler's legs clipped just
his legs; which, contrasting sharply in color
with his silky body, gave the poor brute
the aspect OF having his trousers rolled up
like wading boy.
Legs? They are what the cause of eman-
Cipated woman stands upon. When the
short walking dress ceased to be a novelty
she put on the divided skirt and rode strad-
die. You can see her, here and there, in
the land, ambling along the avenue like
heavily draped clothespln, while that noble
plainly intimatcs TO the spectators that
il isn't his fault and that he greatly regrets
having left his binders at home on the
coach harness. The divided skirt was
fairly knocked out by the golf costume,
which was easily shortened for basket
bah, until at last she laid hands upon the
knickerbockers, which had been the mo-
nopoly OF the masculine youth, put them
on and straddlcd her bike like a little
And ont n ('hig9 Frp mt side mock
cts in them, wore them 10 school, and taught
the young idea how to shoot and walk
until the school board, so sensitive and con-
sorvative are the men OF the wild and
woody West, sternly bade her put on her
ulster or take off her knickeTboCkers. She
put on the ulster.
But what's the use of talking? Brother
man, we may as well submit gracefully
We have lost the distinguished garment
of our sex But il is our own fault. For
centuries, our fathers before US, and we
after them, have made hitter and sarcastic
sport of woman's gear, no matter how
often or how she radically changed it.
She has never yet been able 10 please
CaprCious man Man, who wears a sheet
iron collar. cast-steel cuffs, an inflcXible
bTGastplate Oh his shirt, and stoveplpe
hat as graceful and comfortable as a sec
tion OF a pump log, and then makes fun
of woman's most ill-Considered aud un-
comfortable dress We proved again and
again, by her very dress, her physical and
mental inferiority to man. and her utter
inCapacity for doing mans work in the
world Again and again, not for one or
two years, but for generations, we urged
her 10 adopt the very dress she is now be-
ginning 10 wear.
And now that she puts iton we kick harder
than ever brethren, it does no good For
The morning times., 1895-07-14

ration? / know nothing about it; those
that live Will see, but 1 may venture an
observation.
iispi ration is immensely larger than it was.
Once Paris fashion catered to a small num-
ber in limited area and the mass of the
world wore a costume that has never
changed; once a social incident that con-
cerned France alone could color the mode;
but now fashion laborS for the round globe
and all womankind upon it, and 10 a eli
cnteIle that looks upon France not as
the center OF the world. but as a province
of it merely. on whom local occurrences
in France have correspondjngly diminished
influence Neither Marie Antoinette nor
Louis PHILIPPE reminis scenes interest
greatly this larger clientele, which asks
rather what is il that 5 interesting the
world? At any rate. this much 5 clear
The morning times., 1895-07-14

fastens across over a bouffapt blouse front
Of mauve gauZe. High neck, with white
needlewOrk collar aud cuff.
Alpaca is much worn, but mostly for
skirts alone by faStidiOUs people. IL makes
a useful skirt; il looks ike silk and is
much more durable. But near the face it
does not look so well; Ike all reflecung
material it is unbecoming and that with
out being beautiful IN texture When jack
cts are made OF it, they have facings OF
silk OF velvet or even cloth There is
no more useful or fashionable dress for gen.
eraI wear than alpaca skirt and muslin
bIouses. But do not choose black; a re-
flecting surface is particularly horrible in
black. All tints can be had and white
alpaca is being very much worn.
ADA CONE
The morning times., 1895-07-14

how many godets to put in ones skirt can
be shortly answered by side plating the
skirt oil around, or by gathering 1T all
round, as some extreme elegautes do who
wish to be '1S30" throughout; or by plait-
ing it round the front and sides and having
five godets in the back or, finally, by hav-
Ing it plain in front, wide box pleat
each side and godets from thence round.
Width is the only real necessity.
THE NEWEST FABRICS
Everything is unbleached and the talk is
all of string" color. A model dress has
the skirt of string colored canvas and
bodice and gigot sleeves of striug colored
taffeta, the bodice front cut away in the
lower part so as to leave only yoke that
The morning times., 1895-07-14

dance, or wriggle through the bewildering
mazes of the serpentine much better without
a partner. The little girls on the street
who dance to the lascivious pleasing OF the
tinkling street piano, kick their way
TO and fro, from wall to curb, in many
fantastic and far-reaching caper. The
dancing master can give the patient but
sudden mule points in the Zebralegged
ones own speciality. And if the dancing
master OF to-day could drop into a minuet
of your grandmother's time, he would
produce much the same effect which
The morning times., 1895-07-14

request. not necessarily for publication, but
10 make little noise with. Wherethere
is absolutely no sense, there should be some
sound.
Well. emptying a box containing much
antique literature. a large assortment of
feet-footed spiders with sinister counte-
nance, and the cliff dwellings OF a colony
OF irascible mud wasps, there tumbled
an old bound volume of Godey'S Lady's
Book Dear old Cooley. There was the
old familiar colored fashion plate folded
al the beginning OF each number. a lady
With head the size of a hazel nut, and a
cloud compelling bonnet as large as clothing
hamper, with a whole conservatory of
fabulous and highly coIored flowers. all in
fun bloom. swarming over and under and
around il. The lady had mouth not quite
SO wide as her nose. A long and grace
fully curved neck trailed its sinuous length
from her head until IT gradually tapered
into pair of shoulders which sloped down
ward until they lost themselves in what was
left OF the body after the neck and shoul
derS had been formed From waist not
so large in circumference as the thinnest
part of the neck, swelled a vast. wide-CirCling
skirt Legs, or Eemblance or suggestion of
legs the lady had none. Barely visible at
the front Of the skirt wee, tiny point like
the verteX Of a triangle peeped timidly out
into sight and family suggested that the
'
hind it. There is never any suggestion of
more than one foot Hooked at the picture,
and naturally thought Of Sir John Suck
lings Ballad Upon a Wedding:"-
Her feet beneath her petticOat,
Like little mice stole in and out,
As if they feared the light"
Although / want you distinctly TO under
stand that nothing so coarse or vulgar as a
pettiCoat went with that sort of a fashion
plate No, stree, ma am. We didn't wear
such things in those modest days Not a
mothers son of us.
Wen. lifting mine eyes from that fash
ion plate OF long ago and looking out Of
my window upon Ammo Domini 1895"
wheeling and galloping, aud striding, and
driving, and tallyhoing past, the prophetic
vision came upon me. ! heard the deep, ro-
tund chest tone Of woman-none Of your
weak, piping, masculine falsetto-calling
out OF to-day into the depths Of tomorrow
! that woman is free-frCe-fer- Eman-
/ Cipated all the way. A Y, from the ground
up. That is where she has begun. AT the
ground. With her understanding. 1t
/ is the epoch of legs The ballet girl may
/ put on her longest dress with the most
sweeping train. She is no good. She is in
\ eyidence-and very eXpensively-an hour or
! two every evening in the season, maybe.
! But the end OF the century woman Cavorts
| all day long, and it doesn't cost a cent to
| see her take her pedals out for an airing.
The morning times., 1895-07-14
Queer Evidence in Divorce Suit.

Queer Evidence in a Divorce Suit.
An interesting feature Of the divorce suit
of Elizabeth Stewart against Dr. John A.
Stewart was the introduction of a novel en-
titled "a Search for a Heart, y written by the
defendant in China. The novel tells of
love affairs of the hero, Hugh Blair, and
goes into details of adventures, and con-
tains passionate utterances.
Mrs Stewart claims that the book is really
an autobiography of the defendant, the
various characters discussed being given
fictitious names. She recognizes people
she has known, and with whom she alleges
the doctor was intimate. She alleges that
Hugh Blair is none other than the doctor
hinlself-San Francisco Chronicle,
The morning times., 1895-07-14
Her feet beneath her petticoat,
Like little mice stole in and out"

Oh. they did, did they? Well, back in
the bleak desolate days, when she was
the sul-lave of the tyrant man, maybe they
did. But they don't steal out now. Steal
in and out, hey? They come charging
out like a pair OF reciprocal cuirassiers
clad in good stout leather, with soles as
thick as a Philadelphia pie, and they leave
a track in the dust like a snowshoe. 'As
if they feared the light" Fear nothingi
The morning times., 1895-07-14

Light? Bless your simple soul, son, when
she puts out her flat-bottomed shoes and
bestrides her spinning wheel after dark
she lights a lantern and hangs it on the
wheel that she may see and be seen. Fear
the light, quothal Ay, marry come up.
Turn the calcium on me, please.
villa this era of the legs will long be
remembered IN history. Does my lady
care TO waltz? Not particularly. She
has learned that man is not a necessity
In a ballroom. She can do the skirt
The morning times., 1895-07-14
The aBear Flag" a MYTH.

The bear flag is myth. Ii never was
carried at the head" of fanything, never rep
resented any sentiment. 1t was once run up
on pole as q Joke and never used again.
The bear was painted on it with berry juice
and looked more like a hog. In short, the
story is a fairly good example Of those his
torical Incidents most dear to the popular
heart-and has all the discrimination OF q
pet pig.-San Francisco Examiner.
The morning times., 1895-07-14

Pans has seen this spring both these
epoChs many times brought TO light and
poked back again, and only those remaining
out that reflect the Orient.
Flowered fabrics, turbans and dervish
skirts are OF the East. the East that to.
day is j n all mems minds They speak OF
Egypt, of ChitTaI expeditions, of Slatin
Bey, escapes from the soudan, of Japan
csc victories, of geographical parcellings
out OF Asia TO the West.
THE LATEST FANCIES.
AT last the gigot sleeves are in a fair way
of disappearing Poor old lego mutton,
it has hung on well; it had its virtues, too;
il was susceptible of a great variety or
effects: one could distinguish in fash
ionable assembly the Worth gIgot, severe
and simple, and ike an old Venetian
sleeve; the Morin-Blossier gigot, which
bubblcd over delciously at top, and was