Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1895-03-28
Special Correspondence OF Gazette and Journal

artist IN gowns has Joined the majority,
and will never more have the exquisite
pleasure of dressing beautiful woman.
As Worth has grown older there have
como up numerous men dressmakers,
who were, perhaps, given greater vogue
by some, and who claimed to be more
fashionable. But wise women knew
that not one of them, no matter how
great were his successes, ever attained
the position held by "him." Certainly
he was an artist in color as developed
in fabrics, and so thoroughly was he
imbued with the artistic spirit, that no
amount Of money could induce him to
even consider certain women. They
could buy the ready-made toilettes that
were on exhibition in his establishment,
but design gowns for them he would not.
WHAT NJ. WORTH ACCOMPLISHED.
Mere ugliness had nothing to do with
this fact, for the Princess Metternich,
who doesn't hesitate to say herself that
she looks like monkey, was one of his
favorites, and ON her he put some of the
most exquisite costumes he ever made
However, she was living proof that
there is something else needed to make
awoman fascinating than mere beauty.
In truth, she is the living proof that
beauty is not needed at all ii that in
tangible something, for which no better
name than style has ever been found, Is
possessed. This artist in gowns was the
first one who had the courage to say
that yellow could be worn by blonde.
And he argued in this way: "Yellow,"
said he, lis the color of sunshine. Every
woman looks better when she is framed
in 1t; and SO there must be some special
tone suited to each woman. Sunshine
brings glow to her checks, to her eyes
brightness and makes pronounced, in
the most effective way, the perfect color
of her hair" So on Sarah Bernhard
he put yellow velvet gown, with
which she wore creamy pearls, and in it
looked more beautiful than ever in all
her life.
Another color idea exploded by him
was that
BLUE BELONGED TO BLONDES
and was an impossible shade for bru.
nette. A blonde is the cold expression Of
beauty. Blue is at once the coolest and
purcst color in the rainbow. Consc-
quently when blonde wears blue she
becomes ice. Her skin is faded, her eyes
are dulled and her hair is lustreless. The
brunette with her warmth of color, her
glossiness of hair, her brilliancy of eyes
is suited to the blue, which shares in the
general warmth and becomes harmoni-
Gus. Then, too, Worth taught women
the value Of black with a distinction,
and he dispised making an all black
dress. He claimed there was nothing
entirely black in nature except the crow
aud the blackbird, and they were birds
not held in esteem. There were no black
flowers, and as women are the walking
flowers of the world, they should never
wear black unless it is relieved by u
brigh. tone.
Personally, l shall never forget my
experience with WorN in regard 10
black. had all bonds love for a
black gown. l had all of the Quaker.
esses yearning for stiff silk, and in.
sisted upon the Two. was told that il
| wished black gown it would be re.
lleved by rose color, otherwise | could
not have it. persisted.
WORTH WAS REMOVABLE.
wanted the gown, consequently
had to give in. When it came to me il
was dream. There was the heavy lus
trous satin, rich with Jets, and deco
rated with knots of pink ribbon, shaded
from the faintest rose to the deepes
crimson. 1t was triumph of minc
over matter. And il convinced yer,
stubborn woman that the man knew
his trade, not only as good dressmaker
but as Il student in the harmony D
colors. There existed an idea tina
Worth approved of what is known a
the hour glass type" know that Ii
refused to dress women of this shape. |
they expected him to design gown
they must loosen their stays, wea
proper shoes and proper gloves. Iii
ideal figure was that of Mrs. LangtrS
and one look at her will prove TO an
woman that her magnificent figure wa
never compressed by corset, althoug
one is worn at all times, except whe
the sleeping hour comes. Still, it ha
always been the slave and not til
master.
THE RAGE FOR WORTH GOWNS.
Innumerable dresses came out
Worth's establishment that he nevt
saw, that were never approved by hin
and that were simply made to sci
When he would dress woman, that
design toilette for her, it was becau
he approved Of her appearance. Whe
there grew at first to be q rage fl
Worth gowns, there were women
all sorts and conditions who longcd
have his name on the belts of the
bOdices, and these women knew as muI
IN about artistic gowns as the proYerbi
cat does of Christmas. They want,
that which would announce itself. The
wanted frocks that told in every butte
in every loop and in every bit of la
how expensive they were. Worth cou
take linen at Is cents u yard trim
with Torchon lace and make froc
not only fit for a duchess, but yearnr
for by every duchess on his list. b
these gowns, the joys Of women Of 60,
taste, were not the gowns wanted
the women who believed in MAXI
their money talk in their frocks and
their houses, and so they were cater
TO by the establishment alone, and we
the horror of the artist himself.
HE WAS THE FIRST MAN
in this century who reminded gre
lady that, when Petrarch saw Laura
she came from church, she wore a gre
velvet gown Topped with punches
Volets, and that knot of yielets "
never perfect unless surrounded by
own green leaves. And 50 he prOduc
the combination. 1t was worn by Mn
s de PoGrtales, and all the world of WON
raised their hands in wonder and delig
and each wanted a gown like il. He "
the artist in gowns who combined pi
blue and violet, and did il so deity Il
the women who wore this creation look
like Dresden china statuette, and "
initiated by women with red faces a
beached hair and many ducats, and
many who thought that fashional
,Iry