The Virginia enterprise. [volume] (Virginia, St. Louis County, Minn.) 1893-19??, 1895-06-28
YOUNG FOLKS COL UMN. !.
j Moving Made Easy.
AT moving time the Kansas nln,l s.
Is easily on top:
a cyclone hits his house II blow
y And yanks 1t fifty miles or SO,
X Then gently let's 1t drop.
=. az $.!sf Kansas City Journal
To Make q Yacht.

s- ~. s , Kansas City Journal.
To Make u Yacht. s<=1f So .
All boys know how to make little boats
by whiting board to point with q
jack-knife, putting stick in the center
Of it aud stretching piece of cloth across.
This boat will sail before the wind all
right If properly balanced, but will not
sail against the wind. It bears the same
relation to the model yacht, which it is
proposed to describe, that the ancient
boats which you see in old pictures do
TO the modern ship.
The first real yacht which you build
will perhaps involve somewhat tedious
task, but having finished it you will find
fun and instruction enough in it to we'll
repay the trouble and time expended.
The first thing to do is to get block Of
wood 3 feet & inches long, 8 inches deep
and 10 inches wide. 1t must be entirely
free from knots. Pine, perhaps, is the
best wood for you to use, first because it
is soft and easily worked, and secondly be-
the qualities you want your boat to pos
sess. Smooth off all four sides with a
plane, and then carefully make on the
top, with a pencil, a drawing of your deck
plan, as shown in figure 1. On the side
of the block the outline of the fore and
aft, or sheer plan of the boat, as shown in
figure 2. Then, on the ends of the block,
mark the largest cross section of the boat,
as shown in figure 3, and with plane
smooth off the corners of the block until
you get down to the marks shown by the
dotted lines. With a saw cut off all the
corners shown by dotted lines in figures
l and Z, and you have a rough outline of
your boat Then, with Il chisel, knife or
drawshave 1.-THE latter is best), trim down
the bottom of your boat, giving to all the
lines symmetrical and evenly running
curve. 1t will not be necessary to hol-
low out the bow at all, as this kind of
boat sails much better with a bluff bow
than with the followed bow. TO test
whether the two sides are just the same
size at the different points, take Il piece
of paper and cut it until it just fits over
the side of the boats bottom. Then turn
it around and fit it over the other side
of the bottom, and keep on whiting
until both sides of the bottom fit exactly
in the cut paper: You should test the
bottom of your boat in this way every
two inches from the bow to the stern
AS soon as the bottom of the boat is fin
ished to your satisfaction you should
start to hollow it out. For this work.
which will be the most difficult in the con-
struction,, a gouging tool is best. When
you get the rough part of the work done
You should be very careful not to cut
through the bottom of the boat.
The thinner you can get the sides with
out king through the better. When
the scooping out is finished the really
hard part of the work is done-the rest
is careful work. Now get a piece of
smooth pine, such as you will fluid on the
back of common looking glasses, pictures,
ETC., one-eighth of an inch thick. Lay this
over the top of your boat and mark the
shape of the deck on it. Cut it out exact
y the size of the deck and glue it down
for the deck of the boat. Take strip Of
pine three-eighths of an inch thick and
tack it down on the deck, all around the
edge of the boat, as it's bulwarks, and the
upper body of your boat is complete, To
make the fin keel, take a piece of board,
quarter OF an inch thick, seven inches
long and six inches deep. Cut the top
"a IN tlgure a. SO that it exactly fits the
center of the keel of the bottom of the
boat. Gut the end b, as shown in the cut.
Both the ends and should be sharn.
ened like knife blade, so that they viii
cut through the water easily. To the top
OF the board at riyet two strips of wood
(e), three-eighths of an inch in thickness
one on each side. Get two strips of lead,
elght, inches long, each weighing five
pounds, with hammer pound each so
that it will be round on one side and
come to a point at EACH end (as shown
IN hgure a.; put one of them on either
side of the board, at f, the fiat side toward
the board, and rivet them fast They
should form round bulb as shown in the
cut (d). Place tue fiat piece (e) on the
keel of the boat, running fore and aft,
exactly in the center, and screw it tight
~ on so that the fin keel will extend
straight down into the water.
10 step" the mast, get piece of light
| ameter and long enough to reach from the
deck OF the boat 10 the bottom. Bore a
hole just large enough for the tube to 20
through in the deck, 1914 inches from the
bow Of the boat, and exactly in the mid
die of the deck, and fit the piece of the
pipe firmly in, SO that it will stand ex-
actly perpendicular (see b in figure y.
paint, after it has been we'll sandpapered.
When this is dry set her in bath tub
full of water and mark the spot where
the stern touches the water. Just at
this spot directly in the center of the bot
tom OF the boat, bore quarter of an inch
hole, and directly above it in the center
Of the deck, another hole the same size.
through these two holes put a light brass
pipe, cementing it firmly in place, so that
no water can get in around it, (See a
in figure p.
And now you may leave the hull and
turn your attention to the spars Get q
stick of pine thirty-three inches long and
an inch square; plane off the corners and
Whittle it down with draw shave until
it is round GU! and fiveceighths Of an inch
across &C the bottom: Taper it slightly M.
til it is three-eighths of an inch across the
top. This fit firmly into your mast tube
10, figure y, running it clear down to the
bottom, so that it rests firmly. TO make
the topmast take a square stick thirteen
inches long and half an inch square; work
this down until it is three-eights of an
to quarter of an inch at the top. The
manner of stepping the topmast will be
explained when rigging is spoken of.
The bowsprit should be made of piece
of pine, ten inches long, fiye-eighth of an
inch across the butt end, and tapcring to
quarter of an inch at the end, in the
same manner as the other spars. This
should extend straight out over the bow
OF the boat, two inches being on the deck
to fasten, and eight inches being ont
board, or extending over the bow. A
piece of light brass should be bent over
the bowsprit (see 6, figure ~ and tackled
to the deck. At b, figure 1, there should
be another piece of brass bent to fit the
butt Of the bowsprit, but it should be
AItcu Inc a. AitSl', over SNAIL staple,
end fastened with plug, SO that when
necessity, requires, the plug can be re-
moved, hasp thrown open and bowsprit
unshipped
The main boom should also be round,
one.half of an inch in thickness at the
butt and tapering to three-eighths of an
inch at the end and thirty-three inches
long. The jaws should be whitfield out
of piece of wood quarter of an inch
thick, in the shape shown in AA, figure
., and fastened to the boom with nails
no larger than a pin.
The gaff is made in the same way as
the boom, only it is but twenty inches
ished with a pair Of jaws. These are
all the necessary spars. When you have
finished them smooth them we'll with a
line piece of sandpaper.
The only part of the body of the boat
which remains to be- made is the rudder.
10 make this take piece of wire, nearly
a quarter of an inch in diameter and
long enough to 60 through the rudder
tube and extend two inches below the
water. Make an eye at the top, for the
tiller to pass through, and then attach