The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-03-29

count are of more service to the city than in the days when their owners | fenced them in and delighted them
 selves among the flowers which grew there. The palaces have been trans | formed into warehouses, and where stately gondolas used to glide we now
 see boats and small craft freightet with unsavory fish and deckloads oi crooked tree trunks from Dalmatia Alas! what a change this from the goo6 old days of the Doges!
 The grand Church of the Redentort
 was built upon the Gindecca just after
 the great plague of 1876, when no less
 than fifty thousand people died. Many fine works of art are contained within the walls of this church. A gondola and steam ferry crosses here to the
 city, and not far from where we dis embark stands the Church of San Se- bastiano, in which are a number of
 paintings by Paul Veronese, and in this
 same church is to be seen the tomb of
 this celebrated painter. A pleasant
 walk can be taken about this neigh
 borhood; steamers and vessels are an
 chored near by, and not far off an Eng
 fish steamer is discharging coals at a
 cotton factory which employs large
 number of operatives.
 The chiefest attraction in this quar-
 ter of the city is the Gothic Church of
 "St. Maria Glor1osa dei Frari," this is
 one of the largest and at the same time
 one of the most beautiful of Venetian
 churches. This church was erected
 about 125O and was nearly one hun
 dred years in building. It is filled with
 monuments and exquisite paintings,
 and very many celebrated men lie at
 rest within the fond embrace of its
 great walls. The exterior frownlng
 with enormous time blackened walls,
 from near the top of which spring
 twelve circular buttresses presents the
 heavy appearance of a grim unrelent-
 ing fortress. We must not always look for beauty in the external appearance of Italian churches; there the eye often
 roams in vain to find even the sem
 blance of the beautiful, but the interior With combined effect of exquisite taste, resulting from beautiful paintings, magnificent marbles, delicate stained glass, fine wood carvings and the bright rays of sunlight gliding the magnificent art of past generations, thrills every fibre of our being, and we are by our very surroundings impelled to consider all as belonging to a fairer world than our own. It is to me as a glimpse into a brighter and a better world. Come with me into the interior of this beauti- ful church of the "Frari." Its nave and aisles are two hundred and fifty by one hundred and four feet; the transept one hundred and sixty by forty-eight feet. What magnificent proportions are thesel Its walls are literally lined with tombs, and the ceiling, al- though perfectly fiat, possesses a beau tiful appearance, as 1t is superbly carved in dark wood. The appearance of the interior Is one of great sumptu- ousness, and So largesia 1t it might con- tain fully one-half of the inhabitants of Venice. The splendid tomb of Titan is the first object to meet our. eyes; that great painter died in t576, but the mon- ument was not erected till 1852; it was set up by order of Ferdinand r. Empe- TOT of Austria. Sculpture, architec- ture, painting and wood carving are here represented by marble figures. Then there are three suprbly carved marble relfefs representing the three most celebrated paintings of Titan, viz: The "Assumption,n the Death of St. Peter Martyr" and the "Martyrdom of St. Lawrence;'' then the "Annuncia, lion" and the 'Entombment'' (the lat ter painted in his ninety ninth year) be- | Ing his first and last pictures, are rep resented in marble, while surmounting he whole is the Lion4ef St. Mark. | think that this monument for magnifl- 1 ,ence and superb beauty stands unri- | vailed, and can only be surpassed by | some of those grand monuments in St. | 2eters basilica at Rome, The mausole- | I'm of Canova is directly opposite Ti- | ian's tomb; it is a tall pyramid of Car | ara marble, not unlike that beautiful | pyramid in St. Augustine church in Vi- | anna, which Canova designed for the | Princess Marie Christine, daughter Of | he Empress Maria Theresa. There are | wo or three wooden equestrian statues | n this church, one of which is nearly | our hundred years old.
 The conspicuous movement of the | Ooge Giovanni Pesaro deserves especial | lotice; 1t occupies a space on the side | wall forty feet wide and sixty feet high; is made of different marbles; giant African bearers in black marble bear very large sarcophagus of white mar 'le into a large temple; it is a very rand affair.
 The wood carving in this church is of | he highest order. The one hundred nd twenty-six highly carved stalls we're erected in 146S, and no words of nine can begin to describe their beauty 'here are many fine pictures in the Frari." Formerly Titians "Assump- ion" hung over the high altar many ears, since it was removed and hangs onspicuously in the gallery at the 
 The Madonna. of the Pesaro family" ainted by Titan in 1926 is the gem of he Frari it is one of the most superb aintings in Venice, to behold it is an aspiration, and we stand before it in apt admiration as we study the re- larlSable results of detail on the can as. One of the greatest of art crit s declares concerning this picture, that it reveals more surely than the An unciation' the breadth of Titian's tal- nt, taking us to the height Of Titian's ictorial fame'' When the great art 1t completed this painting he was in is fiftieth year, at the zenith of his lnle, and the value he set upon this orx was about f24O, at which price he