The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-07-07

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the hop, dear, sweet mortal all in frills
of rose chiffon, showing just enough OF the
prettiest shoulders in the world. The
young man may not have definite ideas
about the new woman, but If Maud is one
he loves the entire 'sisterhood with entire
devotion. Really and truly, what is the
new woman, or rather l should say what
is she not? How do you like this for
definition: One who has ceased to be a
lady and not yet learned to be gentle
man.
To confess the truth, know no more
than the average young man what is meant
by the expression, for some will use 1t to
describe the brightest and most charming
of our sex. and others again only when
abiding to some most unwomanly action,
so really | begin to dislike the expression
and shall continue to do so until the new
woman has been properly defined. But to
return to our subject. You should have
seen the lovely yachting gowns worn on the
Fourth; they were more fetching than ever.
Some of the girls were in white from head
to foot-white sailor hats with'white bands,
white duck dress with the dearest little
shirt waists of the softest lawn covered
\ with tiny rufhes or insertions of lace.
Then the little shoes or ties of white can
vas. A large number had white parasols
and all had white wells, which were re-
markedly becoming when bright eyes and
rosy cheeks were combined. But the girls in
white did not have it all their own way, for
no one was prettier than the golden-haired
beauty whose eyes are not less blue than her
dainty dress of China blue duck, which
had great white collar. Another young
belle was IN white, and attracted any
amount of attention, the men not being in
the least awed by the knowledge that She
graduated with the highest honors, for she
is Just as full of fun as though diplomas
The majdens wearing colored duck almost
all had on russell shoes with stockings to
match.
like the solid-colored figures, duck and
canvas, the best, but some worn the other
day covered with dots or stripes of color
were very swell.
I must not forget to mention new
bicycle costume Just completed for a
stylish woman who lives in Oakland. II
is of very dark-brown tweed, having a
thread Of crimson and green through it.
The skirt comes Just to the ankles, is mod
eratelv full, and under it are the knicker-
bockers. The little coat is very short, and
all the seams are strapped; and I must
add that the bat is of the same material
and has dent in the middle, and the gal
tiers and shoes are of an excellent shade of
brown leather. The tout ensemble may
be correctly described as swagger.
A bright French modiste here is hard at
work on costume of creamy white null
and Valenciennes lace and insertion for
one of our very pretty matrons. The
skirt has three rows of wide insertion, and
the whole gown is most beautifully made,
the light materials used demanding the
- fi17ya oil ho hair
done by hand in imitation of some French
dresses which were imported by this house,
all marvels of needlework, hemstitching
uniting the seams. If such models were
more frequently imported and copied hun
dreds of young girls who desire to work
quietly at home and yet earn something
would find every moment protitably occu-
pied, for our wealthy cultivated women
seldom cavil over a few extra dollars for
tne work. An exquisite lavender lawn
from this establishment will be seen at San
Mateo very shortly.
Many chic toilets are to be worn at the
wedding which will take place about the
middle of this month, when a Southern
girl viii wed naval officer. The one I
especially like is of stylish shade OF
green crepon, through which run threads
OF black. The skirt is well hung, abso-
lutely plain and lined with silk; the waist
is cleverly designed having the blouse
effect carried out most successfully; the
front is yelled with strings of cut jet,
which appear again as epaulettes.
Piques, batistes and light taffetas are in
vogue and simplicity of styles prevail, but
the dressmakers' bills are Just as long.
All skirts remain plain and bodices are
full, most OF them having lace for trim
mings. The balloon sleeves end at the
elbow, where they are met by the long
gloves, which have proved to be warmer
for summer wear than the regular sleeves.
Constantly we are hearing from Paris |
about the elegance of the costumes worn |
by recent American bride I allude to |
the young Comtesse de Castellane (nee
Gould) At the Grand Prix her dress was
remarkable for its simplicity and beauty. |
being of white batiste over dark blue silk /
Her hat was completely covered with corn
flowers, which are the rage everywhere at |
present, but beg of you do not ever pur-
chase an entire gown of this shade, one !
such gown is worn in San Francisco and |
it is sufficient for the entire City.
What do you think OF dress of violet
batiste worn over slip of rose-coIored silk. |
the waist trimmed with three horizontal
rows of yellow lace narrowing at the waist
The under-waist shows plainly through the
insertion and acharming if simple costume
is completed with the addition of pale
green sash. [ repeat what l have said.
Wear what you like but mind who cuts
and puts it together. Cheap dressmakers
are the most expensive in the end, for
while with even three or four appropriate
gowns, from frst-class woman, we can
hold our own among the best dressed here,
we would look like guys at all times had
we had three times the number from
person without any style or go to her, or
from one incapable of understanding our
figures.
a friend Of mine. who will go everywhere
this summer, packed up for everyday
wear two sweetly pretty silk waists to wear
with her tailor skirt, in which she will
have thousand times more style than her
near neighbor, who, IN place of two jaunty
little waists, has two heavy over-orna-
mented gowns. Of course several shirt |
waists accompanied the silk bodices, as |
well as very swell leathern belt. One of |
the prettiest army girls at the Preside |
made wise choice early in the season |
when she selected very fine black serge |
for her principal outing dress. She has |
been remarked as looking like real Glib |
I'M, rir1r frn