The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-08-11


zled. The whole world is waiting FOR it to
move, it is quite willing to obHge it. and
yet 1t hesitates. 1t isn't quite sure in which
direction TO move. II is waiting for one
of the master hands 10 Indicate the dircc-
ton. for one of the guiding stars to point
the way. and all the master hands purport
70 be very busy. and an the guiding stars
are moving I'm what has become a tire
some orbit. For in fashions realm the old
order Of things viii do no longer. The
world Of women demand change. and
change they will have.
That is the trouble with the modistes.
They have extended godets and puns un-
I'll the limit has been reached. They no
longer dare assure you that "tAc styles
are just the same madam. except even
more pronounced than ever" They have
reached a point where they are holding
OFF, for a few weeks and crying time"
What they viii DO? Hold conference
among them all? Felix is thus far the
only one who has declared against the
stmened skirt ana the big sleeves, and as
serted that he will not make them this
winter. In an interview with Redfern,
to be sure. he admitted the decoy Of the
godet, and showed me his fall skirt. But
every one is very cautious.
i called on Worth to-day. Young Mr..
Worth who has taken upon himself the
arduous labors Of the dear departed.
lie, too. shook his head slowly and
thoughtfully. No, my dear young lady,
it is yet little too soon. Come to me
in few weeks, / can speak more definite
ly. l can only tell you now that this win
ter will probably see a great many prin-
cess gowns made by us. There Is the
skirt we make now. 1t is very wide, only
easily stinfened, with small godets at the
bottom Of the slant, set in in a different
color
our early fan skirt has for a finish
three simple tucks, rather broad, taken
In the materials, that is all. We use Gre
pons stiil-they will be fashionable all
winter and fine checks in wool
I'VE are making some short godet-ed
jackets for carly fail, and for travelling
rather ran ly trimmed with white braids
There Is one In dul blue" It's square
revers were faced with white satin and
two long panel effects were given at the
beNh ~ Aiit al rang tiltul OF tne me Wnlie
| braid. edged each side with duh blue, that
trimmed 1t. The braid crossed to the
front over the hips, ana ran up the front
very simply
The sleeves were almost fiat I'm 'front.'
only slightly gathered, the puff falling
underneath. came up over the side and
joined to the fiat piece on top The white
collar was very deep. THE figaro Is still
in use for ocean voyages or general trav-
cling purposes" continued Mr.. Worth,
but we use 1t nowhere else. There Is
another elaborate travelling Jacket"
1t was made large, in heavy brown
corded silk. falling in beautiful folds,
and handsomely embroidered in black
spangles and jet vines.
For the short voyage and for yachting
we make these costumes Of marine tulle
and trim them with bands Of cashmere.
we are making few handsome dress
capes. l will have one of my models slip
them on for you. But you must come
back a little later for costumes" And he
called the model and slipped away, seem
ing somewhat relieved.
The capes were, indeed beautiful The
first one in beige satin, and the model as
sured me 1t was the most fashionable color
In the small collets. 1t had no trimming
besides square yoke, both back and front
OF a soft brown lace, the tint Of satin
falling in tabot at each side The cape
was very short, and scarcely lifted at the
sides.
Another, the same tint, was of fine
cloth, with it's fiat back and front made
OF six narrow sections Of the cloth. each
heavily corded whore they Joined A beau
tiful yoke was formed by squares of
lace at the neck. and the lace and silver
work alternating in the two lower rows.
This cape pointed longer In front Its
open sleeves were round pieces of the
cloth, embroidered in silver spangles
Another, and with surprise I saw once
moro the same light fawn color. had its
back covered with delicate rings Of silver
embroidery In front. the cloth was all
cut away, and a round bib relgned in it's
stead-a round bib OF ACCORDION pIeated
chiffon, over which fell another bib this
time Of guipure, and over the gupure was
still another, of deep points OF spangles
and silver. l think that was all to this
tiny little cape, except a triple ruche Of
pleated chiffon In gray that formed a col
lar, weighted down with lace points
didn't feel exactly satisfied and strolled
over to Redfern's. TIe seemed less uncer-
tain. But Redfern always has that air
Certainly, you may look at our fall styles
with pleasure.
What are we making for skirts?
Oh. still the godet, except a very
niue simpler gOdct, and with
toplier front. You see. the
front Is quite fiat, with the stitched band
each side. Then the godets appear at the
sides and back. No. we do not stiffen
them, even so much as halfway up; more
than about fifteen inches, and the folds
are laid quite fiat at the top you see. It's
altogether too awkward to have that
stiffened effect all the way up the back,
with the godets standing out in
what they so fifty termed Organ" folds
You see this gives the effect Of an easy.
comfortable skirt. it falls beautifully, and
yet stands well out at the bottom
Materials? On, generally the fine, soft
cloths and this new covert suiting You
observe IL has a much softer finish than
the covert cloth Of last winter The color
is almost always beige-beige combined
with white. or a rich, bright green. The
lighter and more delicate the tint, the more
fashionable II IS, for early fall. For the
winter costumes we use rather deeper
fawn The Innings Of all coats are lighter
than the fabrics itself and generally Of
white satin.
white and cream leather will play
conspicuous part in the facing Of revers,