The daily morning journal and courier., 1895-04-26

chariot races. In this square are two
 very singular obelisSs of marble, which
 rest upon brass turtles, which are said
 to be the handiwork of the famous Gio-
 vanni Bologna. At the further end of
 the square stands the church of St. Ma
 ria NoVella, which is said to be the
 purest and most elegant example of
 Tuscan Gothic architecture. It was be-
 gun in 127S and completed after seven
 ty-five years of labor. The proportions
 are very generous; 1t is three hundred
 and twenty-five feet long and ninety
 three feet wide, and its interior is very
 beautiful. Cimabues Madonna is seem
 here in a small chapeli it was painted
 in 12S0, and was brought from the pain
 ter's studio to this church by a solemn
 procession. There are many magnifi-
 cent tombs to be seen here, and as for
 frescoes and pictures, they pass mans
 possibility to describe them Months of
 diligent study would be necessary to be-
 come acquainted with the glorious
 works of art to be found within this
 church. There is to be seen here the fa-
 nous wooden crucifix of Brunelbeschi,
 which was executed in consequence of a dispute with Donatello; the Spanish
 chapel and sacristy are filled with most
 interesting objects of art.
 There is large cloister which ad-
 joins the church, in fact the largest in
 Florence, and connected with it is a
 pharmacy which Is celebrated all over
 Europe for its essences and perfumes.
 Let us walk past the railroad station and continue on through the Market,
 which is well arranged for all the de-
 mands of the city. The fruit which we
 see here is very varied and most deli cious One thing surprised me: just
 outside the market are many sellers of poultry, and they have thousands of fine chickens for sale. I noted the heartless manner in which the Italian sellers prepared their chickens for the market. One of the cruel fellows would draw his victims from a large crate and stretch its neck (not kill it); then he be- gan to pluck out its feathers; his quiv- ering, palpitating prey would gradual ly gasp away its life; after tearing out the feathers the rough butcher would with his teeth extract all the tender hair like feathers and the bird at last died a lingering death. These fellows are as heartless as certain cooks at home, who thrust holsters into pots of cold water, leaving them to gradually boil to oeath over a kitchen fire. As I turned to go into the Piazza St. Lorenzo I was met by a young woman with arms extended like the sails of a wind mill, who began shouting, "Garibaldi, Garibaldt!" I had on my head a large black, soft hat, and my appearance either suggested the thought of Gari- baldi himself, or she may have taken me for her own long lost Garibaldi, At any rate she bore down upon me like a steam cruiser prepared to meet me with affection. As neared her ample proportions and bethinking me of those little insects which thrive lux in Italy, lodged my wouId-be friend and so escaped her tender em- braces in safety. The fieas of Italy de- serve a special letter; they swarm in great numbers here; they are not par ticular whether they make friends of the rich or poor; they often go into the streets on the backs of the poor and re- turn with the rich; they leap about in all directions, and a hearty, well brought up flea will readily jump three feet. At Tiberias on the Gallilean sea 1t is said the old king of the fleas holds his court; when I was there I could kick them out of the grass in clouds. There are more of these pests there than in Italy. I have, however, never been bitten by a flea in my life The railroad carriages in Italy are uphoI- Il 5tered with horse-hair cloth Cblack i'm first-class cars and grey in second eIass), and as this material is smooth and cool it harhors no insects, thus de- 'eating the inroads of the hosts of fleas which are present everywhere else. We have now in spite of the very fieas arrived at the Piazza St. Lorenzo, and 1ere is to be seen the very old church of Saint Lorenzo, which was founded in '90 and consecrated by St. Ambrose. It | s one of the oldest ecclesiastic build- ngs to be found in Italy. It was burnt n 1423, but was at once restored by the Medici in the shape of a Christian ba- silica, and it's appearance is most inn posing. The principal door was oma- nented by M. Angelo, and the bas re- iefs which adorn the two pulpits de- erve special study, for they are the york of Donatello himself, the precur- l or of Michael Angelo. Those ancient i beams which are exposed to view in | his church are from the old church of | he year 390. Here is seen the tomb of l 5osimo the elder; he was buried here | n 1464; it is a. very simple, unostenta- ious tomb. This noble man was styled | Pater Patriae" by the comical There | re many works by the great Donatello o be seen here, and that celebrated nd wonderful sculptor was buried ere in 1466 The sacristy is actually ! He'd with tonnbs of the Medici. It is a ovely place to retire to from the noisy | utside world; it is an inspiration to Ealk through this ancient, historic uilding and amid the countless objects. f art to gaze upon the magnificent ombs of those who did so much for heir native city, whose names have ome down to us with bright halos yhich will brighten with glory as long s the history of Italy shall continue or e remembered. The cloisters connect q with St. Lorenzo are very restful nd inviting; strange to say they offer
 home to many stray cats, which are ) be seen composedly winl1ing and linking in the sunlight; these are fed ere daily, according to @ custom which as obtained here for centuries. A GOT opens into a passage which con- l1cts us to the "Laurentian Library ''