The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-04-14
WOMAN OF FASHION.

D
Of modes are not to be caught mapping
when ne streams down upon us some hot
July day. Everything in the fabric line is
made with view to keeping cool on hot
| days. and If we suffer from the heat on
| the birthday of our country 1t will not be
/ because the manufacturers have not done
I their duty. They have woven silk muslns
and cotton muslins. fine percales and
/ batistes for very hot days, and crepons
/ that are translucent and often transparent
for moderate weather. There are so many
different kinds Of crepons that we shall
/ soon have to begin to classify them, for
| they are so different that they hardly seem
| to belong to the same species. This is
| doubtless the cause of their popularity be-
cause. being so varied, they suit the va
rious tastes of a large number. and since
1t comes in so many different qualities, 1t
can be put TO many different purposes.
The ingenious young woman OF limited
means buys 19-cent. crepon of pretty
shade, and trims it with ribbon and lace
for her party dress" The wealthy
woman who is tired of silk buys foam"
erepon at $500 per yard for her new fancy
waist. Those who can afford 1t wear silk
crepon for street gowns. and those who
cannot afford the silk variety do not re
/ compromise with a wool crepon.
The fancy waist Is adapting itself more
| and more to the needs of the woman Of
4 small income. 1t serves her for almost
! any occasion which is likely to occur IN
her sphere of life. A black silk waist by
| judicious handling may be made to do duty
! as a church costume. and an evening
waist. The best way to accomplish this is
! to make the waist with a removable collar
anu chemlsette. me collar may .. De maze
! high, and the yoke seWed to this may he
| pinned or hooked down underneath. A
/ black silk waist of this kind was cut
square in the neck and bordered with lace
! Insertion and jet which did not look at all
out of place when the chemisette was m
serted. The greatest advantage about the
waists which are fashionable now is that
they are so easily made All one needs is
a tight lining and plenty of goods to
quicker over 1T, and 1t doesn't much matter
! how It is puckered. An old waist that fits
well may be used for a lining with out rip
ping il apart. A faded batste vast, which
still retained its shape and its whalebones,
was used by girl of ideas and few scrup-
les as lining for her evening waist, and,
| the necessity of fitting having been dis
pensed with, the assistance Of the dress
maker was also made unnecessary.
There is a great fancy for butterflies in
jet and jewelled trimmings. Jet butter
flies wired to stand up are set on the
/ shoulders of fancy waists, and on the
skirts of evening dresses. Gold butterflies
are gorgeous with pink and pale green
gems, and are used on dresses and hats
and are used as hair ornaments. Immense
| black jet butterflies measuring eight
inches from wing to wing, with blue let
spankles that .glisten hike diamonds, are
used as trimming for black net and gren-
adine dresses.
For tailor made dresses when trim
ming is to be used at all, there are half
inch passementaries made with overlap
ping sequins and put on like braid. Not
much smooth cloth is shown this sea-
son, but that which is exhibited is very
attractive. The broadcloths come in pret-
| ty shades of red and brown and green,
and pinkish tans. Coverts are on the
bargain counter at half the price of those
But it is the accessories and not the
materials which make the gown this
year. Using almost any material for
! foundation, 1t is possible to conceal it
| beneath q mass of trimming that is hardly
seen. OF all the trimmings used, none
are so popular as flowers, and these are
put anywhere, either in punches or in
strips or bands. For solid trimmings
ones are put on in punches. 1t will soon
| be a very ordinary thing to see tailor
made dress with a vest and collar
of rosebuds or forget-me-nots. Capes are
| trimmed with bands of flowers, and the
flower boa is necessary accessory to
ones toilet.
| ones flower boa match the flowers on
| the hat and parasol Hats made entirely
of flowers and green leaves are displayed
in every milliner's window Some of the
| prettiest are made Of pansies. pansy
| hat and boa will be one of the features
| of the Easter procession.
Giant pansies are made the size of
| lilies, and one or two of them are used
with white lace as the sole trimming
| for leghorn hats.
But 1t seems not to be enough to deck
| ones hat and gown with blossoms. Even
the fans are made of flowers, and the para
soils are made gorgeous with all sorts
of floral decoration. Some of the parasols
are Of solid roses. These are mingled with
grasses and leaves until no vestige of the
| silk beneath is visible.
A white chiffon parasol has wreath
OF roses running from the tip to the edge
in winding course. Others have flowers
and grasses bordering the edge.
one beautiful parasol of white satin
had bunch of orchids at the top, and
one or two set around in careless fashion
on the body of the parasol
A few are made of net or chiffon and
trimmed with rows of narrow ribbon. A
pale blue chiffon had a fve,inch iounce
around the edge with tiny blue ribbons
run around the edge.
Some of them for ordinary use are
made of light silk with an indistinct all
over figure in dainty pinks or blues. Some
are scattered with rosebuds, but all are
white, and have white Dresden han
dies.
Plaid parasols are carried with plaid
trimmed gowns and are very fetching
but rather gaudy. The dark parasols
have black grounds and a tiny silvery
line forming a check pattern. These
are the only ones that are really service
able. The light ones are so dazzling that
they are little better than the sun itself,
so FAR as the eyes are concerned. Then
the colors are so dainty that they will new
err stand Old Soils attacks when he really
| begins to get in his heavy work. Besides,
the materials are so frail that they will
soon get torn or frayed against the jetted
trimmings that are sure to be worn on
the dress Of her who carries the perish
able umbrella.
One can buy a light silk parasol with a
| Dresden handle for $780, or pay $50 and
have a white satin with orchids and w.
| DRY handle. As a rule, parasols are very
/ large being three or four yards around,
and when trimmed with a chiffon rufile,
/ this means several dollars difference in
/ the price from the size carried last year.
one of the prettiest and coolest ones
have seen was the white chiffon decorated
with sprays of maiden hair which looked
| as II they had just been picked in the
| woods and pinned on.
None Of them have any suggestion OF
| utility about them, however, and look
| more like toy parasols or studio decofa.
| tons than real projections against the
l summer sun and wind.
! Considered as backgrounds for pretty
faces, they are irreproachable, and Tor