Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1895-09-26

ing scanned in with the sleeves, was
extended out over them and folded
back and out again, an effect obtained
by having the embroidery for the
waist shaped and embroidered with
finished edges all about the portion
touching the sleeves. From the waist
line three pointed straps extended up
to the bust line, while in the middle
of the back there was one; these were
of the satin, and held in place appar-
entity at the top with a black velvet
covered fiat mold button. There was
no belt or girdle. The bodice merely
covered the waistband of the skirt
and was dotted with the black butt
tons at intervals all round. The collar
was high-fitted throatband, without
a yeStige of the ''bat wings" or don
key ears" or anything of bow nature.
! Doucet showed me an odd creation
yesterday. The gown itself, which
was absolutely devoid of trimming of
any kind or description, was a change
able blue and green silk with black
woven through it in diagonal irregular
narrow waves. 1t was made up in a
perfect princess shape, billowy as the
skirt, and with large sleeves which,
below the elbow, chung to the arm
in a mass of soft wrinkles. A circular
cape of black chiffon overlaid the bod
ice, fitting smooth about the shoulder
we'll down over THE tops of the sleeves;
from there on it lay in a series of
soft folds, while the front and back
between the sleeves were also. in a
series of fine draperieS dropping a lit
tie. The cape must have been more
than circular in width to start with
and very deep. From each side of the
neck. back and front, slashes were
cut in it, and ribbon Of the hues of
the dress were laced in. Where the
folds began the ribbon seemed to have
puckered UP the chiffon, and a bow
and long loops of the ribbon held the
drapery Of the chiffon in place on the
bust line at the arms eye on each
side, back and front. The collar was
two strands of the ribbon tied into
two loops under each ear. Nobody
but a FrenchWOman could design such
dress, so simple and yet so extremely
stylish. 1t needs good carriage to
carry off these unique gowns, and
therein comes in so much Of the Pari-
sian art in dressing. At home we
think only of the dress itself. The
Partisan dressmaker thinks how it will
look on the woman who is going to
wear it. She simply will not make for
the plump little partridge of a woman
the gown which was designed for the
willowy Pompadour figure. You may
plead and scold as you will, but no
one Of the notable dressmakerS will
permit the name Of his or her house
to go out of the establishment on a
gown that is not a credit to the house.
Now a dress that makes woman
ridiculous as the dress for the Diana
of q body always makes the fat little
frau is not a credit to any dress
making establishment, and nobody
knows this quite SO clearly and to
quite such good purpose as Madame
gu Monsieur des Robes. D."
Apropos of fashions for plump
women | saw a gown yesterday that
had just been sent home for Mrs. -,
whose figure has always been her
bette noire, but who always manages
to find somebody to dress it so that
she looks we'll enough to make half
the JunOs in society envious. This
particular frock was Of black satin
yelled with finely figured black silk
grenadine. giving a rich watered APP
pearance in combination that was puZ-
zlingly like a marvellous new ma
terial so little did it look like one fab
ric simply placed over another one.
The gown was in full princess style.
Sleeves large but dropping enough not
she is tall. The skirt fiared and was
to make the Wearer look wider than
very long, being made for either car
riage or house wear, and although it
did not lie upon the ground it set out
so at the back it had the heightening
effect Of little train. Over the bod
ice Teally made in place, but looking
as if put on separately like piece Of
armor) was a cuirass; this had little
caps over the shoulders of the sleeves,
was low about the neck and cut out in
deep V shape back and front, the
points Of the V being held together
with a strap. The lower edge showed
the waist line under the arms and in
front, where it was sloped up and then
down to make a narrow pointed tab.
At the back to hide the fiat place at
the waistline that so many stout
women have, the cuirass descended
into little ruff1ed basque, short and
sitting out pertly. This cuirass was
of gray blue satin edged narrowly
with gallon of blue jets and peacock
eyes most minute. The straps, one at
the front and one at the back across
the V openings, were of the trimming
edge set solidly con narrow bands.