New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-07-16
TO-DAY'S FASHIONS.
THE GOWN WITH THE SQUARE NECK
VARIOUS PRETTY BLOUsES-NEW
IDEAS IN HATS AND HAIR

DRESSING.
Few people realize the beauty OF the nape OF INC
neck There is nothing more graceful IN "o'n-
ans form than the line that connects Wen
poised and well-shaped neck 10 the shouiae's D.
Those who are fortunate enough to possess 'his
heautv may CONGRATULATE themselves upon the
pretty squared neck which has recently become 30
popular IN Paris. although not as yet very 'nucn
worn In America This is not the old-iashio"oa
square which was quite low; 1t leaves me hecH
Simply quite free being cut only TO the coilar-po'e
in front and Just below the nape at the back with
the sides touching the neck To mark THIS square
n band of embroidery. insertion or passemen'erie
is laid fiat: to this the blouse is either gathered or
pleated. very full In front. plain on the shoulders
and slightly fulled at the back. The sleeves are
very large and shaped. ending at the eloo"
This is a particularly becoming and pretty style
and will undoubtedly be popular as the cut Is not
TOO low for day gown in summer For young
girls OF twelve or fourteen II is particularly suit
able.
new blouse by Myra is very stylish. The colors
those OF a sweet pea. A deep square Oh
renaissance guipure is laid pink-slk lining on
this the mauve crepon blouse is gathered across
the 'front.' the opening being concealed under a
prune-vevet band a, the side. which comes straight
from the shoulder to the waist. forming one side
OF the trimming OF the squared neck. The rest or
1t Is also marked out by the velvet band. very
wide and fitted belt OF draped prune-vevet clearly
OF pink and mauve striped tafetas. and the
tight-nttirg forearm is OF the renaissance guipure
over pink.
The latest bouses are loveer than ever.
Doucet model is OF maize yellow mousseline de sole
knife plcated over silk lining. and trimmed with
bands OF applique pansles and foliage in their
natural colors. forming very long points. Three
o. these start from the collar In front and reach
halfway down the waist There three behind
and three each sleeve at the top. with two
the tlght-ittng forearm. twisted around
tho from the elbow. The collar and belt are
OF drapei mauve velvet with . rose;te At each
side.
Very wide coarettes seem also 20 be feature on
many OF this seasons gowns. newly Imported
costume by Felix has the skirt OF pale
crepon. with raised trimming OF white guipure on
green satin bands either side. from the waist
halfway down the skirt. where It seems to hold a
graduated godet fold The blouse has vide col
larettc OF green satin. continuing Ike a vest in
front, over which tho crepon is gathered. This col
larctte IN trimmed with deep lace and the satin
coming from the neck laid i've radlatlns
points one running down IN front to the waist. and
four others laid dlasonaly across the "collci."
two on either side This same Arrangement Is laid
on the coarcttc at the back. and the belt IL also
OF green satin. covered with the Culpurc
Another OF these new wide collarcites Is separate
from the dress and may be worn with any gown.
1t has black satin yoke. trimmed with pointed
necklace OF Jet, with Wide black satin collar
studded with jet stars Around the yoke - a very
deep trimming OF black passcmcntcric squared
the shoulders. and hanging In points In from,
like a nchu.
very pretty revival Is the Puritan collar OF
white linen. II Is made very wide. 20 fare ou'
over the sleeves. and Is finished AT the top with
straight hCh band The pure white Numbered linen
looks particularly wei when worn with dark blue
duck or galatca. Plain collarctcs Of black velvet
also very popular. and light
dresses. \ pretty pattern has the upper part
squared. extending FAR the sleeves with the
front cut in two points. little apart. to show
the blouse front OF the dress These points extend
to the waist. where they finished with The
rosettcs.
Any eccentrici'y seems permissible In hats nova
days. The Marie Antoncitc shape. with - straight
brim and wide trimming OF gauze and flowers cx-
tending over the entire top. II very popular. Some
OF tho so-calcd bonnets. too. really very Ike
the caps OF the period. with the frlil OF lace In
front the drapcd ends % lace at the back and the
full crown. Bows still worn. but not nearly as
much as last season. Many people however. have
found them so becoming that they loaih give
them up.
At a tournament the other day several new IDEAS
in hats seen. \ pretty arrangement for n vel
which covered the face had the fulnes Of each end
gathered together Ike fan This was fastened to
a sailor hat either side with an ornamental pin.
ana FORMED a pretty trlunir; az wei - prot~c-
ton the face. a rather audacious trimming for
another sailor" which. however. produced a very
pretty effect. the pacing o, two punches OF
wonderfully natural-looking violets. with their
leaves. one on each side OF the edge Of tho brim
with another bunch with tyall Of buds and caves
on the left side OF the crown.
shirred crepon hats Of every color. which may he
ben, into any shape to suit the face and hair ar,
universally becoming. and In consequence are
universally popular in country house Ne These
may be trimmed with punches Of flowers on either
SIDE with ribbons with wings.
The correct way OF wearing a Marie Antoneite
IA, is 10 place Il well the head. with the hrim
Just above H.. level Of the eyebrows Our American
women wearing these hats much too far back
and In consequence they look top heavy Wearing
the hat over the brow makes the loose arrange ncnt
OF the hair az the sides also much more becoming
or all fashions the style OF wearing the
hair takes longest 70 change. People become ac-
customci 10 what they imagine quits them.
whether the arrangement be high or lOw. tight or
loose and any sudden change IL not generally
pleasing. Gradually however the loose. wavy
sides are growing In favor. and the eye becomes
accustomed TO the fashion, the sides tighfly
drawn back look ugly and old fashioned. Altogether.
the prettiesi style at present Is to have the hair
loosely rolled back from the face all around. ami
knotcd at the back. II the hair In not thick cnough
to mass we'll small cushion OF curlcd hair Of the
same color may DE placed underneath the desired
effect being to have II slightly pompadour In large.
naturnl-look.ng waves. Any little loose curls should
be on the temples. rather than on the forehead
vALUABAE GOODS DAMA0ED ON Ia xoRuANDIE