davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The advocate., 1895-07-10
WHY SHOULDN'T THEY BE PATRIOTIC

II
Mary E. Squire, a correspondent Of
the Firebrand, published at Port
land, Ore, in the issue of that paper
Of June %, gives an account Of her
visit at San Francisco, CAL, to 'Fhe
inhabitants of the Dumps" a class of
patriots hitherto unhesrd Of, so far
as we have observed. Her report is
well calculated to inspire lofty senti-
ments upon the dignity of American
citizenship. It should have been
widely published and read from
every platform where Fourth Of July
orators exhorted the people to re.
newsl Of patriotic devotion to the
principles OF human liberty. She
says:
We have been TO California. stirred tbe
conditions Of labor from center to Ciroum-
ference, and spent half day amid Che in.
habitants Of the dumps, at the risk Of con-
tEaCting some disease from che foul stmos-
pheEe which hangs over.
Hundreds Of men live here and feed upon
the garbage dumped there By soAvsnger
oarts-fOOd thSb no one would feed TO a
dog. These men live here because here
alone are they safe from the polioeman's
club. They have no work, and if they beg
they are arrested, and 80 come TO this
place, their only refuge from starvation or
jail. We tSlksd with many Of them, most
Of them being Americans; they said:
"We are not criminals; if q criminal
comes among US we run him out; we are
law-abiding citizens. Even though we are
forced 10 live in this way we respect our
selves and She law too much TO steal"
just think Of it; law more sacred than
lifel And to cap IL all, from their miserable
novels in which no one could stand erect,
made Of bits Of carpet and straw mating
gathered from the dumps, saw sew
eral little flags AVing, and I asked,
What are these for? The answer was;
81 am q true American and this is my ooun-
tEy's flag" I said: "Tear out the star
that represents California, leave nothing
hut the rent behind-fib emblem of your
degradation" He said: MADAME, Pm
afraid you are an anarchist" "Bub if l
am, then WhatP' "Oh! you would de.
stroy--" Here I stopped him and said
"WhstP the earth, the sun, the.moon and
stars, cause the rivers 60 Aow back and the
roaring sea &c burn, throw nature into
chaos generality" He said: "No, you are
not powerful enough with all your dyns-
mite TO do that, but you would destroy the
law" And then smiled and said: "And
what would you and millions like you lose
except hhe chains that bind your But l am
not an anarchist; am a strong evolution
ist."
If these are not conditions calcu.
lated to inspire patriotism where will
you find such conditions3 One
would naturally suppose these peo-
pie would have q horror of anarchy,
they have so much to lose by it. It
is no wonder that conditions are as
they are when We remember that
fools like these are sovereign voters,
and that they never fail to support
the highly respectable tickets put up
by the bankers and corporations of
the state and nation.
This correspondent gives some
Furthar facts eonoerninO theaa noo.
The advocate., 1895-07-10

sympathy should the governor be
forced by "public sentiment" to pros
eCute them.
The advocate., 1895-07-10

At Cleveland, o., 1900 wire mill work,
era are out on a strike, protesting against
q cut in wages.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

little half-and-half evening dresses which Partisan
dressmakers are fond Of urging upon Tn I
American customers are practically useless over
here. except perhaps. for a reception dress 81 t,v
hostess at afternoon tea hat beng pfoPap'5
the one occasion wherein such a gown won DC
needed In Philadelphia ana boston novel; ms iI
half toilets generally worn for very r.ldl ON,
ners: and II shows the difference between New"
and her moro provincial neichbors that woman q"
society from one of the latter cities co:np.@lH'i
that being asked to dine VERY informally with q
friend in New-York. she went, NATURALLY IN
pretty light, high-neckcd dress. and found ide
other women present all in regulation dnh'r
gowns" A New-York woman would never nave
found herself awkwardly placed. for the siInWc
reason that 1t would never occur - her 10 'l''
out in anything but "A low-cui bodice.
very ,iresome feature OF the present iaSn'o,.
that there should he an appropriate gown ioF 'N'iN
occasion. is the amount OF luggage mat u Is nee
sarv 20 take for very short visit lev dfN-
stay at an up-to-date country hous" rc'ffs.'a
tailor made gown TO arrive In, a tea-gown coupe
of dinner dresses. a number OF blouScs ana u ~"
fair visitor has sporting tastes habit. WIN =
golf or bicycle frock. together with m1ctlNloSA'
covert coat nd a Scotch ape by va or N1t.
SIN the result is so satisfactory hat y L. worm
a little extra allowance OF luggage. i mltht be
we'll lust here 20 say that lars" boxes rr i'nhkS
are considered had form. They are N'ff moon
venIen; 70 manage The stairs. a"i ere apf .
cause damage Two or even three sm ilor ones arc
lar preferable. as they car be casy carried ahou'
and are ALTOGETHER less objectionable IN every Wy
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

too narrow shoulders For many seasons We nav
been accustomed TO the broad effect al tile shp"i
ders and II will take time 10 prhs a"ou' a 49,
, ,,,a.,o, there is little doubt that the
change Is coming
Felix shows a very pretty and advanced sleeve
on a gown built Of d pompadour SILK Pattt'"
of mink roses and blue scrolls on pale yeiiow
,roupd The skir, has a panel Of ecru lace Down tach
side Of the front breadth, ana part Vi Us '"l''''
IS laid in two fiat pleats each side ON the front
OF the bodice is "A square yoke OF pHh 81" 'oNu''"
with yellow lace, and with "A frlll OF l''e I"'lihs
over the bust In the back are bretelles OF PINK
silk with lace over them. and two stripes OF bihck
velvet ribbon coming over each shouideI anu emu
ing I'm two smart bows on each sue " Tue pust
The belt is OF black ribbon velvet. fastening III the
hack with a bow and long ends. The sleeves SHOW
the 1880 tendency and prettiy ru'heu on 10 the
long fiat shoulders The choker IL OF ohcK VeVet
but shows a rufiie OF ecru lace against 'he
throat
The adoption of white collars and ACE ru1nes at
throat and wrists is OF the most i'ai Neo ieat-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

skirt by a three-inch rufe OF Vaenciennes lace and
insertion Bltlste chemises cost s25 each.
Drawers are exceedingly broad, fluffy and short
enough 10 barely cover the knee. They are MADE
full by a slight gathering on the inside seam Inc
outside seam is often left open several inches ana
the knee trimming IS extended Up this space wneFe
the garment is finally caught together again by !ohs
loopeI bows OF pae-hued ribbons Sometimes 'ne
entire outside seam is trimmed in this way and he'd
together by bows run in buttonhOes on each SIDE.
rather heavier rainsook is often used FOR drawers
FOR the sake Of durability The finest drawers are
trimmed with handmade Vaenciennes UndergaF-
n,euts are no longer made purchased IN se's.
The fashionable buyer Of French underwear pur-
chases her gowns and other pieces by the dozeh'
with little regard to each other.
The newest corset covers are fitted loosely ana
drawn in to IL the figure snugiy by fine ribbons AT
the waist Sheer batiste and cambrics are employed
for these garments and they trimmed with IN
sertons and borders of fine Naenciennes ana the
finest hair tucks done with the needle. The corset
cover in the illustration Is trimmed across the DUST
with three insertions Of Nalencennes separated by
narrow spaces Four groups Of two hair tucks trim
the garment down the straight back. The fulneSs
Of the front Is fitted the waist by close cus-
ter OF hair tucks on each side. No. rib
bon draws in the back the waist and hts the front
snuCly TO the form.
Matinees in delicate blue rose pink, or yellow SIX
are made in loose fun effect with large pGHed
sleeves reaching to the elbow and wide trimmings
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

puts in an appearance after a dinner anu goes IN
later to ba-or perhaps the horse sho" OF ex-
hbitons for which functions IL mas peOo"e .ne
cus,on, Z. cns,on h the way yvhich is sure to be-
come obsolete soon or ate) 30 wear very fine
raiment But it is safe 10 assume tnat "a rue
"grande dame does not desire 10 al s.dS' me d l.
the vulgar ,,,i ,oio.. Go
In New-York as in England, DEM to aie FOR
ever worn 1t being quite the accepted iact mat a
woman may dress as eaborateY ior le" ~
Inmates as FOR a large assemblage. 20 the pretty
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

ures of the spring frocks, and women are thanklui
for IT'S daintiness and becomingness BESIDE ru'heS
Of lace and the embroidered null collars ana Guns
which are so fashionable. there fiat collarettes
cu, IN deep points, narrow turnover collars or
white satin edged with narrow Valenciennes lace
Ftlix exhibits some street gowns that are very
"cbic one is a barege OF Hight gray, so loosely
woven as 10 necessitate a careful lining This is
accomplished by a thick yellow SILK, which gives
delicious tone to the gray Inc 'front.' OF 'he shire
shows two narrow panels, narrowing to point at
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

colorad hatis,a These delicate ose-hued gowns
harmonize with tints of the complexion and are
So becoming that they have overcome the dislike
which refined women feel toward the Of color
in such garments. Pale blue. however. IL mad
Missile because il is unbecoming. giving a ghast-
IL tone 10 the flesh tints. Buttercolored embrold-
cries arc much used on gowns. Chemises and draw
or. are kept pure white, and no color Is allowable
except an occasional drawing string or bow OF pale
hued satin ribbon.
Shnpes remain simple The gowns fall from
IN. shoulder In full soft folds somewhat In Empire
style. and are finished by huge collars OF lace or
embroidery .urucd back from the throat. The
sleeves are huge IN size and pufs that reach TO
Tho elbows or just below Il. where they are finished
bv n new bracelet OF ribbon, which Is run In the
bottom of tho sleeve and draws II cose TO the arm.
or by deep fall OF Valencennes lace and insertion
or English eyelettng. The gown illustrated Is OF
sheer nalus1ok. The huge collar OF eyeletting Is
done In buttcr-coored embroidery, and the full
puned sleeve is fitted close around the arm by Il
hracee, of pale yellow ribbon. above which ten
inch rnlc OF but;ercoorcl embroidery droops Still
other gowns are laid back low from the throat In
hure collars In shawl or surplice effect. French
gowns I'm handmade Nalenclennes lace ana fine lace
l fine linen batste cost $50 Nainsook gowns
trimmed with handmade Nalencennes are SIS up
ward Less expensive gowns are trimmed with
noInt de Paris French Vaenciennes and English
eyce;tngs.
The new chemlses exceedingly simple. are ln-
ished with pointed or square necks, and trimmed
with insertions and inch borders of fine Valenclennes
strings They are usually completed around the
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

of noint de Paris Maltese lace or English eyele'-
49,, -, ,,r,, or butter-colored thread. Sometimes the
or,ire boly Of the blouse is yelled with sneeF oa-
,is,o or lawn worked in eye!etung over pare aPpie-
,r.en violet or blue silk. while the short sleeves are
beId IN fu puffs just above the elbow. with hang
i ,ruIs of eyeletting below them Long matinee
Gowns are ma lie OF soft, sheer crepons ana olher
WOODS in delicate tnts In preference 70 SILK A'eS'
gowns often fall in fine accordon-peats rom d
HIGH woke ike the graceful little garment mere NUS
trated This gown of dull violet crepon Inc
woke is cut out square in the neck ana oordere'
with heavy appliques of yellow thread lace Inc
gown IS finished by wide RULES OF yeo" thread ia'e
around the shoulders and at the bottom OF the iul
pufed elbow ~laeyes.
The revival Of the white skirt is assured Single
skirts OF pcrcae finished with fine scallop AROUND
the edge OF the hem and ten or twelve inch seal
loned hounce above Il will be worn In the street
with summer dresses. With more elaborate house
dresses a skirt OF nainsook Is worn. This Is hhshea
with three four i've overlapping nounces' ABOUT
FIVE or six inches deep around the bottom. Ihese
rufies are quite generally trimmed with edges OK
French Valencienncs frIs Of point desprt'
There are often many as three two-inch rui'les
f solid lace on the edge Of the skirt one over the
other Above these the overlapping hounces come
edged with lace Of the same width THIS gives
houffant edge % the bottom OF the pettcoaI ana
holds out the dress skirt. For extra warmth thefe
are short petcol,s OF the finest crepon woods edged
brocaded skirts and corsets to match Is SHOWN IN
new sets imported from Paris Sets OF pale Vloiet
hrocade in fine she'll pattern are shown. The petit
coat is trimmed around the bottom with h'he-lnch
aounce Of bu,ter-coored point de Paris. Ihis
eounce is festooned with full little choux Of violet
ribbon around the edge OF the skirt. over several
overlapping founces OF v!oIe; silk In varied tones OF
c,,or still other skirts are OF cream eros grains
figured a Ia chine, with bouquets OF roses IN natuFa'
colors The corsets that match these skirts are
trimmed around the top with lace 10 match the
aounce on the skirt These handsome eorsets are
intended 10 be worn without corset cover as many
dressmakers prefer TO fit elaborate gowns next %
the corset.
A haircoth underskirt Is now a regular part Of the
outfit of a well-dressed woman, and is necessary TO
hold the wide haring skirts OF the hour IN pace
For general street wear these skirts cost - ~, ana
in fine white harcloth for house wear they are
81 To- They are faced with muslin ana finished OF
SO that they can be Numbered easily as skirt
OF cotton. The feminine reader is Indebted 10 the
Pansy Corset Company for these details
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

the hem. % yellow silk. edged with gray emoror1-
ory TO bodice T., OF tho barege with n OF
black velvet edged WIKI yellow. and a line 81 en-
hrodcry N tie back. The bareee ends IN iroh' III
a round Jacket effect. over vest OF yellow" DOT
der.d by tn, embroidery. There is a second mar
row vest and belt and chokor Of black VclNe' '"iS
o,.i ho.,,co is g, welcome change from the almost
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14
EXOTISITE LINGERIE.
WONDERFUL THINGS IN BATISTE AND
LACE-THE RETURN OF THE
WHITE SKIRT.

The demand by women o; fashion for real laces
and sheer musins Of Oriental delicacy Of weave has
made line underwear more costly than ever before
The new linen Ja;iste IS the sheerest ana most
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

unlvars,l uso o, the w. blouse In some fash
ION Another gown IS OF the popular crtpon. Ia a
shade Of tan. ard is charmnsiy combined win
brown and golI SIX. Thre" short mario" points
~ the silk edged with an embroidery oi goId ana
as ornament the 'front.' breadth Of tho skirt. the
middle point being longer thln the others tn"
wais; has sloey~s ana a blouse of he fancy SILK
over the blouse tao cr@pou is cu go slashes. form
Ing Jrrfrilcs ln the hack and coming under IN"
arms IN Il short. narrow jacket eject. with two
tabs IN front which turn up AMI ihst"n on me
shoulders HE the loops % a large chou 'hoH'r
anI b.lt are - black ye.vct. and the tabs are
hc.I on ~. shoulders ~ ornamental jct ana goI"
i,ttoas FtliN is using buttons. large ami small
on many Of ms street gowns.
! chic Iit,c mantle g. 81 black six. with thl'K
rlI,h Of chiffon aud JET bordering a. The cape
r,achr. TO about the elbows. bat ~ II Is designed
for "a iaI woman. u1t too young nor slender long
tabs reach haN way - the knees In front. These
abs are heavily trimmed With chiffon and jet
E3diaing lines u Jets cover To" whole cape ana
the collar is a huny affair Of chiffon ana JET. \
sua,t bow rs placed on each site OF the b's'' an
directly at 20" back OF the collar large Do"
a. the back ~ tine neck is popular. ana mos"
placed Oh NANTES aomet.mes reach an enormous
width.
Gus,ave Hc.r shows some very dainty capes.
one Of lavender velvet f. particularly lovely. IN"
collar f. triple turnover affair. with two collars
Of .avcu Der satin. edged with an embroidery 81 pui-
pie paiettes. anu TIRE middle one OF white sh''h'
cI2ei by = fri, Of white Nacuccm' - lac" Iher'
&. g, fan o. heavy white lace lu front. The cape
,., 18th, ,,.o. oc white lace
- pord'r'" VIII" ''"' "' l -. ,L
with puus OF lavender V"Net ln"h 'Hr'"S' Wv
iaree holes in the pattern. This lace border IS
,.,,,, ,.t.h ,,tl,,,os and olgcI with n tiny
S"'"NI'' wa" I"'''',' r,'. ,,ar,a, ,bre,d lac.
f'ii Of tne Na"Eclenn'S. Inns Hhiio" "'''"' ,'
f. used largcy for trimming. ana IS as appropriate
-, t,. ,..,,s AMI v,,v,ti q, on cottons and
va '''''''
'ih' i4t 49,.
Another cape IS Cut I'D unique Wd'. = - ''''
si,rt IA, th. hack and increases I'm length In front.
-, ... .,, ~. ,,,-,.t e,v.y over
Inc cape zoe ""' "'''' an - ''' ,
;he bust in wide r'Vcrs. Ino'c re''r" Hi' 0'"'-
lou,1 and he,,ti, embroidered in god is the
:, =, -, 81. ia shnri
lotion "i ne 'iIr. IN "a" D T ore are lined
ok Oh VIM Sl'lu. J,,, T., s,ch n manner
T, w. ,1 iI, t"' ms con;inuition OF the
liltt ''' ~. ',i',J - hgh ir he hack and IL
,rrsled into he sb,nc Of butterfly with pun
- ,,, M % IN 'f,,o"h 81 Uurnc ilacs ON each
y! "''' 80, 80. ar, ~ 90. f,a,., I'm any way the
80. I'D q, ~ MA f., on mo stouders This
~ Nv a., 81, mus '}'-at H., se,f tbaf IL T. best
,roru win Main ,rhitr or black silk blouse sim
worn WIN :. H,flh M'', -. ,,ro ted front.
p'I I"s, WIN r"At ,,.r,v h;"uee ~ a n,ro white
IfhC., ,,ir wi, ,'as -, oIo win nm blouse 81
e'. 3,I from bro.t 70 waist we're ,oosc straps
81 a ,%idc Insertion OF yellow lace borlered by mar
Tow lace frills The Yellow lace. with the nuny
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

silken texture ever gsel in underwear II was en-
ploycd somewhat extensively in the trousseau OF tae
Czarnl. The most popular material. which Is used
when the costly linen bltste-is not chosen. is sheer
French nainsook This Is employed for gowns,
cherniscs AMI corse,-covers. All these garments
are made by hand. the seams united by fairy-like
stitches in finest drawn work in the manner seen for
several years.
Real Nalenc'onnes lace Is used on fine garments IN
preference u neeIework. and 50 are Maltese aces
In the delicate feathery patterns OF oiden times Inc
open-eyeettcd pattern of old English needleWoFh II
one of the newest trimmings on gowns OF sheer
nainsook az we'll as on matnees ana dressing
sacques There is a little tendency this season 10
use color in gowns. Some OF the most tastlu'ouS
women Use the new French gowns OF pdIest fose-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14
NETWORK DAILY TRIBUNE SUNDAY, 95THIRTY PAGES

fashion with diamonds and rubes The gold skirt
supporters - be success They consist oi
two heavy gold safety pins which may be hooked
together
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14
FASHION ~ PARIS.
SOME OF FELIX'S MODELS JACKETS. !
CAPES AND FRIILS. +,

Paris, March y
Some OF the couturiArcs ar" introducing Il H'u'
,rImrnne on the plain skirts. but always in length
, direction Among Fflix's models ~ spring
strea. povns several Of the skirt are trimmed
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

Form" April number the society paper pub.
lished by Dempsey 4 Carroll, can now be had at an
frst-cass news stands IF you move in best sociS1
circles Form will interest you. &c
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

fnlness Of the present sleeve IL approacnlns me
elbow that. too will rcsolv" itsel' INTO tne WHc
cuff and full lace nouuce OF that epocn WIN tl'
upper part fitted Ia the arm. rms IL ony SUI
mae however as the sleeves today ire ha'ber IMAM
81, ooo l.. -,
Tho largest Illustration on this lage Is OF
Paris gown Of soi; yellow silk. eH lutsltrN em'
broidered with vines and tendrils u, bronze SIX
and Jets \ deep collar Of beamul'u oId l!'c
frames a yoke Of bronze velvet. inc french tea
rown OF which a back and 'front.' vie are pre-
sented is Of silk ccrpon. velvet. ana noussrllnc
de sole The young lady In hat ana p'" nes wears
n gown OF crepon trimmed with lace
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

II viii cost you nothing 10 try ne New
Wheeler Wilson Sewing Maehihe' % oroiu-
-
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-04-14

with fat narrow panel effects. His skirts are mod
crate ~ size averaging seven metres about the
bern That would be between seven and eight
wards and the skirts Of course contain no wires
or extra stiffenng. lie shows sleeves Of al varie-
ties and styles and many Of the models have the
fat close effect at the top Of the arms, but H. j.
very conservative In his idea as 10 Its adoption
this season for general wear. II emphasize the
defects of short and stout women. or those with
Kansas City daily journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1892-1897, 1895-04-11
READY TO COLLECT,
City Treasurer Green VIII Receive Taxes as
Soon as the Council Fixes
the Rate.

City Treasurer Green Is ready for the
onslaught of the taxpayer. He has de-
Vised a scheme by which all of the re-
ceIpts for taxes have been written out
and are ready for the adding of the
amounts as soon as the council passes
the necessary ordinance fixing the rate
The receipts are engrossed in books di-
vided according to the park district
limits, and but little more work Is need
ed to make the treasurer's clerks ready
for any citizen who may appear to
pay up.
The books are neatly arranged in
cases, put into a box which is on a
turtle" which can be wheeled out to
the cash window. There the applicant
has only 10 give his name and descrip-
tIon of the property and the cashier
takes the book out, tears out the re-
ceipt and passes it on to the auditor to
be countersigned. All of the receipts
are signed now and nothing is lacking
but the putting in of the amounts OF
taxes due.
This Arrangement will obviate the te-
dious delays which have annoyed the
people while they wait for the cashier
or clerks to make out their receipts.
Many people have been in line for hours
because 1t has been impossible for the
office force to expedite business. I'M
der this arrangement there will be a
saving of hundreds of per cent of time.
With the change in the desk arrange
ment added 10 this new system, there
will be almost no delay TO the taxpayer.