The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-03-17


scribed Kind and Used in "A Par
ocular Way.
From the London Queen.
When drawing room is announced.
those who desire 10 attend it are imme-
raa-ely interested in the kind of costume
they are expected TO wear on such a
memorable occasion. The rules and regu-
la.ions concerning court dress are strictly
laid down, and can be ascertained by ap>
pHcation TO the lord chamberlain's Office.
ST. James palace. where the printed
Dress regulations approved by the queen
OF her majesty's drawing rooms can be
procured.
FUN court dress means the wearing Of
trains, plumes and veil. in addition to an
ordinary evening dress. The plumes are
three ostrich feathers. These must be
either white or black, black being only
admissible for mourning. This has not
always been so, for 1 have attended
drawing rooms when colored feathers
matching the brocades were worn. But
royalty watches with a jealous interest
any innovation on the set rules laid
down, and a special regulation was at
once circulated to prevent such a de-
partWre from ancient customs What
is Important is that the feathers should
be so placed that they can be clearly
seen on approaching her majesty.
The wells or lappets are of two kinds,
these also must be white or black. The
lappets are veritable lace lappets. namely.
strips of lace about a yard long, with
square or rounded ends. Thirty years
ago every lady wore these, and then for
long time they were superseded by
tulle wells; now both are to be seen. but
the lappets are chiefly affected by the
dowagers. Last season there was A
wonderful resuscitation with regard to
the wearing of old lace, aud this also
brought back into favor the antique
lace lappets which had been living nv
for some time. The tulle wells may be
quite plain, or they may be spangled
with beads. such as pearls. or gold or
silver. or with paillettes. They are from
a yard to a yard and a half long, and
are generally the width of the material.
1t is now more fashionable not to wear
them over-wide, but to introduce the
tulle higher on the head; sometimes TO
interlaee it with the hair and always to
fasten 1t back securely with hairpins or
with diamond and other jeweled orna-
ments. IL is old-fashioned to allow the
tulle to come too far forward on either
side, so that they resemble wells which
erstwhile were worn by bridesmaids
Much care has to be taken In dressing the
hair for court 1t is exceptional now TO
wear flowers, the plumes and the wells
being considered sufficient with the ad-
duon of diamonds where it is possible
Diamond tiaras, stars or ospreys, sprink-
led with diamonds, starting from rays of
brllliants; all these add to the grace and
beauty of a court head dress.
White gloves are the only kind admitted
except in the case of mourning, when
black or gray are allowed Here, again,
some years ago the unwritten law had
been transgressed and tan gloves APP
peared within the precincts of the palace.
winch was promptly put a stop to.
1t is absolutely necessary that all these
regulations should be faithfully carried
out for their are officials at the drawing
rooms who at once note any transgression
OF the law, inform the wearers thereof
and have the power to prevent passing
the royal presence at ALL 1 was present on
one occasion when lady had to tear
off some tulle from her gown in order to
form the necessary veil, which she had
not put on.
The cut of the dress is also a matter
OF regulation. 1t must be a low court
bodice with short sleeves, but in other
respects may follow the current fashions
Those who wish to wear a high court
bodice must obtain her majesty's permis-
sion to do so through the lord chamber
IAN, but having once received it it holds
good for the future.
RMS particular bodice may be made
OF SILK, satin or velvet. 1t may be cut
square or heart-shape, filled in with
White only, either transparent or lined
1t may be high at the back or cut down
three-quarters height the sleeves to ell
DOW either thick or transparent The
bodice, which received the queens ap-
proval, is turned back in front with re
Vers, has a hign collar at the back of
the neck and small ruffle of lace inside
falling in a narrow N-shape down the
front. In addition it has a fiat folded
nchu on either side, which passes under
The stomacher as it was worn in the
eighteenth century; while the sleeves
have turned-up small cuff at the elbow,
from which fall long dropping sleeves of
lace, and the sleeves are transparent if
desired
Bouquets are not necessary according
TO regulation, but any one appearing in
buckingham palace now without one
looks remarkable, for they are almost
universal. The members of the royal
family alone have not adopted them at
these functions They add considerably
TO the beauty of the court dress and to
the pretty aspect of the reception
within the palace, but they have their
drawbacks. Those who attend at court
require to hold two regulation cards,
handkerchief and fan, and bouquet
IN addition is apt to be an embarrass-
ing complication. Until you arrive at
me door of the picture gallery immedi-
ately opposite the throne room, the train
Is carried on the left arm; then, however
IL is removed by the queens pages and
trails on the ground behind you as you
cross the picture gallery and enter the
presence chamber.
This is often an embarrassing moment.
one of the cards is left on arrival with
the queens pages at the top of the grand
staircase, but the other one has to be
given to the lord chamberlain in the pres
ence of the queen as he stands on her
Hght hand, so that when the train is
removed the bouquet and the fan should
De held in the left hand and the card
and handkerchief in the right Having
entered the presence chamber if the queen
is there in person and it is a presentation,
you bend as low as possible, place your
hand in the outstretched hand of the
sovereign and let your lips touch
IT, 1t will be well to remember