davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1895-01-13

I Have the best Remedy in the world for \ kidney, blood, piles and veHerai diseases Over loo people have been cured i'll the last eight months in this city alone. Cases of long standing have been cured in less thhn two weeks dime. Proof given. l want aR in- telligeut man with small means to help me place this great remedy before the people. A good chance for the right party to realize good returns for a little investment without any services. Investigate A chance Of a lifetime. Address sealed letter to L. Simons, Main street, Pine Bluff. Ark 1ld6t
 gFOR RENT-Rooms furnished or unfar- nished: also house to rent. Apply to ?. ii. Bridges, No. }26 Fourth avenue. II Ct IET TANTED--An all-around mechanic,
 w one who can work on step-ladder to put up Lamson Package Carriers, Gail at A. Blum's store. Ask for c. ". McCommick. 2t NOR SALE---Good homemade lard at 10 E cents q pound. Apply to Will Mckin- ney Ct
 NOR RENT-Dwelling house with ght II rooms and servant house. corner Fifth avenue Chestnut streets Apply to Gillespie < Bro, Company. , tt JHTA NTED--A white boy, l2 to II, to make
 w himself generally useful about house. Home and small wages. Address 0. this of fee :id66 TS0R RENT-F0ur-r0om house with servant G room and water connection. Apply to Mai. N. T White. F 12 Ct rElliE Union Pacific Tea Company Of Llitle
 | Rock wants &n energetic agent Ill Pine BilIH t0 sell teas. cOilees. spices and baking dOwicr. Address Union Pacific Tea Com pany. Little itucll, Ark
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1895-01-13

Heroic Resolution Mrs. Knervz rang the bell for the domestic. "Norah, she said, when the kitchen lady appeared, s'I'll feed the canary myself after this. The doctor says I must take more exercise"
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

she seemed as cool as a cucum Der, though
1t was broiling hot day, and all the other
veterinarians. even those in the skirts
and shlrt-waists most worn since the hot
weather began, looked as warm as peonies
on the sunny side of garden wall.
OF all the models offered, and they are
many, bloomer cycle suits are least in IA
yor. Except as necessary adjuncts to the
skirt costumes and the divided skirts I'M
der which they need to be worn as well,
boomers have but little sale in New York.
In country lanes, where there are only
mlld-eyed rabbits and grasshoppers to be
offended, they are sometimes worn; but
In town they are kept very dark, being
confined to ladies who have theories on
woman's rights, and who find a bloomered
way the easiest in which to express them
selves.
The wherefore of their unpopuIarity is
obvious. Boomers are not only not CO.
quettish, but hideously ugly and unpeocm-
ing, and happily she is a rare bird who,
for the sake of doubtful privilege, is will
ing to sacrifice her charm.
The divided skirt, which astride the
wheel can scarcely be distinguished from
an ordinary skirt, seems TO allow all the
freedom necessary to even the most enthu-
Slastlc cycler. Knockers are sometimes
worn, however, early mornings in the
park-before all the world is there to see
daring Frenchy little affairs, made much
like mans riding breeches, and with the
outside seams horsiiy Tapped.
A belted Norfolk jacket, or trim box
coat, both with skirts that come modestly
down over the hips, go with the knickers,
which, OF course. meet long CATERS at the
knee, and the blouse under the coat will
be either OF thin linen or soft-fnished cot
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23
FASHIONS FOR CYCLISTS,
Correct Garments to Be Worn
by Women When on
Their Wheels.
BOOMERS NOT IN FAVOR
The Beskirted Wheel Woman More
to Be Considered Than the
Breeched One.

NEW YORK, N. Y, June 22.-The BIZ
cycle fever continues to spread and woman
and fashion more than ever turn the wheel.
Not week passes but there is something
new in bicycle toggery and this time the
new thing is in the shape of a material
called Russian. crash that has the. loose
tufted weave of Turkish toweling, and, in
the shade most favored, the tint of earth.
Indeed, 'dirt COLOR is the name by which
the most modish shade of the crash is
known; and it is warranted to stand water
as we'll as dust. and when made up cor
rectly, with the most careful tailor finish
ing, it is very effective. A divided skirt
and Elton body is the model usually chosen
for the Russian crash, which, is said by
those who have given it trial to be as
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

cool as neat. 1t is sold in all the big shops
by the yard but as yet there are no ready
made costumes seen in it.
Suits made to order, however, and COM
prising besides the divided skirt and Eton
the under boomers or knickers indispen-
sable to every bicycle costume, can be had
at good tailor's for $40.
Other handsome bicycle suits are made
of cheviot whipcord, covert cloth and Eng
lish serge. But the serge, together with
the alpacas and mohairs offered in the
shops for wheel wear, is not advised as a
serviceable material-that is. the mohair is
not good for skirts, in which shape its wiry
texture causes it to slip around and blow
up ungracefully. The serge, which is ges~
orally in blue, is not good dust-hiding
texture. Whipcord, in browns shading
from dirt color to serge is the favorite and
most useful material for skirt suits, and
the best of them, it is remarked, show a
heroic dearth of trimming, plain stitching
being Invariably the sole ornamentation.
Still there are trimmed bicycle suits, and
avery cocky little costume of coarse, loosely
woven brown linen, lately seen, was
charmingly decorated with the same tex
ture in cool, dim green.
The body model was shirt-waist with
wide sailor collar and deep turn-back cuffs
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23
REVIVAL OF OLD FASHIONS.
Styles of Female Dress That We Owe
to the Year 1880.

sly ics "a II cHidle NAT w q owe
to the Year 1880.
If there be nothing new under the sun
the same axiom will certainly apply to
fashion, as it will to an almost equal extent
to cooking. There have been many illus
trious professors of the culinary art from
the days OF Vattel down to those of Fran
| cateIli and Jules Gouffe, but, with the ex-
ception of the potato and the tomato
scarcely any fresh components have been
added to the culinary arsenal during the
past 200 years, and, although multiplicity
of new sauces have been from time to time
devised, they are in general only combina-
tions or adaptations of bygone sauces, and.
apart from these, many of the very best
are the very oldest.
And SO it is with the fashions; it is not
only the coachwheel hat that we-owe to
1880. The ''leg of muttonn and the "gigot"
sleeves belong precisely to the same era,
although the mode of dressing the hair
varies considerably from that adopted at
the close of the reign of George Nv and the
beginning of that of William ". 49,
Ladies at that period parted their hair
down the middle. and wore it either in
ringlets or in heavy curls, mounting their
coiffures with strange ornaments, such
as ''toupees," or very high cones of tor
lOlSe SHELL OF else Will towering BOWS OF
ribbon. or by arrays of tall pins, some
what resembling the silver skewers used
to decorate certain made dishes. The
sleeves, however, are only reproduce
tions of the 1880 adornments Closely
copied also have been the wide-spreading
pelerines, the gloves, cuffs and belts, but
in one important particular fashion in 1895
has refrained from initiating the modes of
more than sixty years since; the .ieg of
mutton" and the ''gigot" sleeves were ac-
companied by a skirt very highly embel-
Iished, which was worn short enough to
make the wearer's feet and ankles dis
tinctly visible. AT present the skirt is per-
fectiy plain, but its length entails on the
wearer the necessity of holding up her
dress as she walks-a fashion which came
in, nobody can tell exactly when or WHY.
but which may be fairly qualified as uni
versal.
In the matter of hair, also, the ladies OF
the existing era decline to follow the pat
tern which we have already described.
lady hair is now scarcely ever parted, and
a friz, which of old would have been de-
risively spoken of as a mop" is considered
as the only eligible form of hairdressing.
Yet no one can tell, no one can as much as
guess, when the claims of ringlets or even
of plainly banded hair may not once more
assert Observation-Disclosures Telegraph.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

ing, gathered on the highways and byways
of cycledom, are as follows:
Before the world fat ladies are wearing
skirts with tails; the gathered divided
skirt model is better for wash materials
than the pleated one; black canvas CATERS
catch the dust and hold it; leather CATERS
are hot, but those in Jersey cloth are hot
ter. Canvas is coolest. The best wells are
the meshed grenadines the best gloves are
those IN wash leather, that without open
ings draw loosely over the hand; and they
are only novices in the noble art of cycling,
it is said, who wear high heels. A neat
wheeling shoe, and one that is comfort
able as we'll, is low affair in two pieces,
being scanned only at the heel and down
the toe. 1t is made in all shades of russell
leather has fat heel, a pointed toe and
sole as flexible as a glove. The latest, thing
in ties is long, narrow four-in-Eand in
black satin that is much worn with shirt
waists; it reaches from neck to belt, where
the end is loosely tucked in. t
A word in favor of ready-made bicycle
suits.
If one is neither too long or too short,
too fat or too lean, they can easily be fitted
at the best stores. Ali the big shops ho.p
WELL and besides being wonderfully cheap
some of them are really charming. Their
good looks are not always warranted to
last as long as those of a costume made to
order, but things made to order cannot al
ways be afforded, and cycling is not a
sport to pass by for the simple want of
dress.
Here are some of the best things to look
out for:
Divided skirt and long jacket. Materials,
Scotch chevlot in mingled reds and browns,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23


ton, these, by virtue of their good washing
qualities, being accepted as the best sum-
mer materials for cycle waists.
But the beskirted wheelwoman is more
to be considered here than the breeched
one. These mannish little knickers, at
tractive though they are on the right fair,
plump maid, have not yet found woman
kind at that point where they are willing
to drop petticoats entirely.
There are two sorts of bicycle skirts, the
right sort and the wrong sort. The wrong
sort. is either long enough to amuse itself
by catching on the pedals, or SO short that
breeches themselves would be decenter, too
wide or too narrow; and this kind is
usually fashioned at home or bought ready
made.
The right sort bears on its face all the
marks of garment favored by heaven
and a good tailor. 1t strikes pair of
inches and fraction above the ankles, and
is scant at the top. One good model has
the placket at the left OF the front gore, be-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

ing finished there as we'll as at the right
hip by a stitched flap six inches long. At
the inside of the side cores two elastic
loops fasten over a button on the long
CATERS, this being one of the devices to
keep the skirt down. Another is to fasten
lead weights at intervals in the hem.
Again, a skirt will be made heavy at the
bottom, and so hang properly, with a
leather facing and row after row of close
stitching, silk lining doing away with
that ungraceful catching on the knee COM
mon to unlined or cotton lined skirts.
The bloomers worn under these skirts,
since they are at times almost as much in
evidence as the skirts themselves, are usu-
ally of the same material. Good summer
ones for divided skirts are of thin ecru
pongee, and favorite model for both is
one that gathers into narrow yoke at the
waist and fastens full at the knee, with an
elastic garter slipped through a casing.
A pongee chemise is also liked by many,
and some wheel women are also wearing
pongee corsets. One pongee corset that
slim, pretty girl modelled after a short
shape, called the Bernhardt, was merely
a bust supporter, straps holding it over the
shoulder, the front being fastened with up
turned hooks over which the lacing was
looped.
A regulation corset shape, only much
shorter and more lightly boned than is
plumper proportions.
As to outside accessories, gloves, hats,
shoes and leggins must, of course. accord
with the costume worn. For example.
under dark skirt light leggins shine out
with fatal bigness, and a trimmed sailor
is distinctly out of place with Knockers.
The most stylish hat for knicker suit
is an Alpine shape, white or mingled straw,
with a wide black band. Sailors, if simply
banded. NAV be worn however and thew
are, without doubt, more sensible for sum
mer, shading the eyes better.
The handsome stuff suits have hats
made of the same material, Alpine shapes
or else sort OF yachting cap with double
visors.
But these, together with Jackets, have
all been dropped for the dogdavs; sailor
hat with the lightest possible weight and a
cotton shirt waist being the two things
necessary to the wheel girls summer hap
piness.
More points on correct wheel furnish
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

set at intervals all around the brin, to-
gether with masses of white daisies or
guelder roses. Black wings and white
wings are adopted with equal impartiality,
sometimes combined with flowers, some
times with ribbons. A very pretty roseate
straw hat composed of that soft straw
which looks as though encased in chiffon
can be effectively trimmed with brown
speckled wings and wreath of shaded
pink roses tied with long green grass, the
grass standing up erect on either side of
the wings. This grass is much used and is
usually pinned with paste pins or buckles,
and frequently appears on Panama hats
with black glace ribbon.
The June weddings of '95 will long be re-
membered East, so remarkably pretty
have they been, and at several the brides
mother and grandmother, as well as her
bridesmaids, sisters and all the female do
mtstics in the house have worn pure white
gowns. The grandmothers were especially
handsome, wearing rare black lace to re-
lieye the whiteness, while the mothers, if
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

can be made in silk, crepon, serge or any
material desired. The front opens, show
ing the front of the bodice or blouse fully
1t opens V-shaped in the back, showing
the back also, and there are revers there
as in front. 1t can be worn with
any kind of blouse and the new
elastic belt is very necessary with it.
As fashion demands, this jacket is short,
and most of the ordinary jackets have
muslin or flax sailor collars and cuffs,
easily detachable, but the one ]. mentioned
has not, as it is for especially dressy occa-
sions.
The demand for belts is on the increase
Among the prettest and newest are those
in tan suede, with unique clasps. Doeskin
belts, with the clasps also covered with
white kid, are pretty with white or light
colored blouse, and broad webbing belt
invented by Redfern is said to be marvel
of comfort and ingenuity, making an IN
tidy effect between shirt and skirt an i'm
possibility. These webbing belts are made
in all colors, and the large gilt hooks that
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

pretty and young, wore a touch of color,
but the bridesmaids and little sisters were
in pure white, the domestics being pro-
vided with white India silk dresses.
The most fashionable gowns have plain
skirts, full sleeves, and bodices of either
white satin or shot silk, covered with
white or ecru lace, or the full bodices
of the same material as the gown are
hidden by center box pleat and collar in
contrast.
A lovely gown just completed has a skirt
of pink satin embroidered in silk with
leaves and stems, the flowers being appli-
que artificial roses. The bodice is full,
with an embroidery of upright leaves and
stems, meeting a wreath of artificial roses,
which border the neck and appear to form
a portion of them.
Cha rming waistcoats are being made in
cream satin, richly embroidered Indian
fashion in gold and colored silk threads.
A pleasant relief is given by these vests to
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

girls and as tea gowns for their mothers.
One l like is of light blue and has dainty
sailor collar and cuffs of fine cream -colored
washing cambria embroidered. The girdle
Is OF cream-white silk, exactly matching
the cambria.
None of our last summers skirts are
wide enough to meet the demands of
fashion now. However one of our most
fashionable and equally amiable dress
makers lately altered two last years
gowns for a friend of mine and the result
is excellent. One of the gowns is a good
black silk, covered with little green roses.
Madame matched the green and introduced
1t as panels, which were covered with
jetted net. The comparatively small
sleeves were used to line the very bouffant
one OF green satin covered with the net
Huge bows of green satin ribbon trimmed
the bottom of the skirt at intervals. A
white India silk with pink morning glories
creeping over it was treated with equal
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

success in the same manner, pink In
dia silk and white chiffon being used.
Materials can be so beautifully cleaned
nowadays that any fine garment when out
of date can always be used advantageously
if brushed and carefully laid aside until
the proper occasion arises for cleaning or
dyeing.
Panama hats are very charming this
season, trimmed with ribbons, wings
and cherries, cherries being popular at
present. They are used in little punches
each side of the coils of hair at the back.
Cherries are also to be found on white hats
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

brown china silk lining; price, $50. Un-
commonly cheap and handsome.
Suit of short skirt and half-itting short
jacket Materials, blue and white whip
cord Cooks like DENNY and silk Innings;
price, $25. Stylish and youthful.
Suit of divided skirt and Elton body.
Materials, dust-colored alpaca and china
silk lining; price, SIS. Cool and cheap.
NINA FITCH.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

fasten them in front give a nice finish
Leather belts on which are reproduced the
tooling and ornamentation of old books,
and soft prepared chamoise belts hand
painted in an odd fashion, are also nice
and quite different from any other belt one
has seen before. MARcELLA.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

of the green, and the skirt, which fell a
little above the ankles and was made to fit
like riding habit about the back and
hips, was plainly stitched. The tail of the
shirt was worn outside, a neat belt of the
green linen with a pointed end slipped
through slide of the same, holding it
down trinity. This rig was most effective,
but struck the speculative eve as best for
country wear, when a little fixiness on the
wheel seems less out of place than in the
town.
a New York girl wore it in the park and
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23
the simplicity and severity of the coat and

SKIRT regime.
A good little dress is made of light brown
diagonal tweed, with a full bishop sleeve,
gored skirt and short coat The suit is
lined with bright tartan plaid.
Another like even better is of fancy
coating of shot blue and gold. The skirt
is full and gored, the coat short and lined
throughout with silk and finished with
handsome buttons and buttonholes, so
that it may be closed in moment when
desired
A smart little coat has Just appeared. It
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

Inc l1ems OF information obtained for these
artleies are the result ola close perusal of such
London papers as Queen and the Gentlewoman.
ana OF standard Partisan papers like LIE Revue
Ge Ia Mode and LIE Moniteur de la Mode.
Inc German fashions are not overlooked SIS
Der Bazaar is frequently consulted. so can saw
posluvely that these articles may thoroughly
pe depended upon, as containing the very latest
iashlon news from the best sources.
Itseems as though the luxurious fashions
worn during the reign of Louis XVI would
mold sway for some time TO come, and in
Keeping with them are the many extrava-
CANT little additions to the toilette. A
While ago L mentioned the very beautiful
handles which are sold for parasols, max
ing them very costly; now jeweled
handle is quite commonplace unless the
parasol has its points jeweled. These are,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

Simple child's frock for evening ,cear of
rose-pink crepon. Bodice Of credm a0lite g,si-
pure, transparent, orer the crepon. Belt of
rose satin. The skirt is laid IN large godet
pIeats.-ReUue de la Mode
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

Conn Of fdw'a-colored .face-cloth trimmed
u'ith mOss-gree1s ve8Uet Hat of rough straao
one shade darker than the dress simply
trimmed with green satin bows-Reuue de Ia
Mode.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-23

When Wheeling Never Wear Close
Stays, Never Garter Your Stockings
at the Knee, and Always Wear a
Gauze Undervest.
Kate Power's review., 1895-01-26

Among the pretty entertainments of
the week. was Miss Tiliie BOos' beau
tiful party given to the Pastime Club,
Tuesday evening at her parents home.
Cards was the order OF entertain
ment. and the prizes were won By Miss
Emma Muller and hr. Thos. EnOchs.
Miss Theresa Muller, and Mr.. Blake
captured the boobies.
The pastime Club is one Of the most
successful in the city, and one OF the
most pleasant organizations.
Miss Fitzhugh entertained the Whist
Club delightfully."- Tuesday evening,
The REVIEW has addeda very charm
ing as well as most efficient young wo-
man 10 its staH, in the person OF Miss
Nal ferger who will hereafter devote
her time and talents in its interest
Mrs Harvey and Mrs. win Powell
Of Canton were among the charming
women who came down To brighten
the Veterans re union.
Senator and Mrs. A. J. McLaurin en-
tertained at their palatial home i'm
Brandon. last night. ~ a brilliant re-
eeption, which was attended by hum
dreds OF guests, asked To meet Miss
Daisy McLaurin and her guests and
former school mates. Misses Emmie
Power Of Jackson, Katharine Lilly of
Chattanooga, and Mattye Green OF
Vicksburg
IL was one OF the most brilliant SO
cial functions ever given in Brandon.
Among the small, but elegant affairs
Of the week, was Mrs. Dreyfus' tea,
complimentary 10 Mr., and Mrs. Fink
of Alabama, to which few guests
were invited
Mrs. Tom Thumb Magri and her
troupe of Liliputians, played to splen-
did houses while here, and delighted
hundreds OF happy youngsters.
Mrs. Magri seems, like good wine.
To improve with age,
The hundreds who heard the Swed-
ish Quartette Tuesday evening will re-
jolcc to know that their company will
sing here Feb. 2t, Miss Power having
made Il contract with them To sing for
the Presbyterian church.
Kate Power's review., 1895-01-26

The old Confed, the old Confcd.
lies living still, though his cause Is
dead
Why should he still the earth encum-
bcr?
Ills place is filled, he's a sure back
number.
No place IL held~-no force IL led,
By this poor cuss the old Confed.
Still he remembers the days of yore--
The fight he fought, the flag hc bore.
He killed some folks he crippled
more
lie increased the pension roll galore
When the Yankee soldier eats free
bread
He thanks the Lord - for the old Confed
An 0tn CosFFn.