Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1895-10-28
TOURING SCOTLAND.
A VISIT TO THE CANTERBURY OF
THE LAND.
A Glimpse of 81. Andrews-The
c,.n.Jr,I md It's ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
bishop sharp-The Scene OF HIS
Murder.
Murder.
,st Andrews Correspondence OF th'
Tribune)

a
yellow autumn fields. northward anu west
out OF Edinburgh. the huge Pentland HIS
show black in the morning mist, ana the
eombre Corstorphine looms stately and
splendid beneath a rainy sky. There
are portents OF storm, but In the capri
cIous cline Of Scotland the smile Is close
TO the tear, and We are rejoiced rather
than surprised. when rolling across the
! Forth Bridge, to see riffs of blue I'm the
sullen clouds, and CLINT of golden sun
shine on the smooth, dark river Tar be-
low. Upon the beaches of Burnt-island
the tide is flowing softly, in long, thin,
foamless waves that idly lapse and seem
| TO make no sound. Southwark, looking
| across the steel-gray water OF the Forth,
we can discern the receding spires ana
domes OF beautiful Edinburgh. with Ar
thurs Seat and the Pentland Mass-llke
watchful lions couched confronting In the
| mist Soon we fit through gray kirk
| caldy--a name grimly famous IN SCOT
fish history-gazing, as we pass, on IFS
quaint church among the graves, ana
| marking. far at sea, the lighthouse o'
! the lonely Isle of Mary.
! At Dysart we leave the coast and trend
| northward, through meadows that are
| fresh with verdure and among gracefui
| hills, crowned with green copses, ana
now beginning to glitter in the brilliant
autumn sun. No part OF Scotland Is more
carefully and tastefuly cultivated ana
adorned than this section or Fire, where
every prospect eloquently denotes the gra-
cious result of many years of industry
and thrift Stately villas peep forth from
the woods Low red-roofed cottageS-the
! simple and cosey abOdes of comfort-nes-
tie in the wales Lazy cattle, many-col-
ored and picturesque, stray in the pas
| lures or couch beside tho dark. cool. shin
ing streams. Not even in finished War
! Wickshire can the wanderer ma gentler
pictures OF rural peace than may be
seen in Fife At Iadybank we are almost
within the shadow OF that singular noun
tain-ev1ently the inspiration OF the
name-which, with its symmetrical double
! peaks suggests virgin bosom barred 10
! the benedicton of the sky. Next we dash
past Opulent Cupar, and presently, from
busy Leuchars. where myriads or scream
ing seabirds fill the grassy moors, we
look across the bay TO the sand dures and
the crags Of st. Andrews, the gray tower
| OF it's ancient and famous church, and
the desolate pinnacles OF its ruined Ca
| thedral, once so beautiful, always re-
nowned and still august and reverend
among the shrines of Scotland.
A SMALL TOWN.
81. Andrews of the present Is small
gray town. built mostly OF stone, perched
on a promontory overlooking the northern
ocean, and devoted in part TO learning
and in part to sport. Its four principal
streets like the ribs Of an outspread fan,
/ converge 10 n point. at the ruined castle
and cathedral ON its eastern shore, and
. ipt
| causeways. and diversified with occasional
squares. Upon one side OF the promon-
! tory the surges OF a wild sea break in
stormy music on beach and crag. Upon
the other rising from the bed OF tiny
river, moorland shelves away, TO
circle OF low hills. Northward, across
the broad waste OF sparkling water, rises
the shore Of Forfarshirc, stretching from
Buddon Ness toward Montrose, while far
! TO the eastward CLEANS the lighthouse
on the lonely Bell Rock.
The living sights OF the town are the
| colleges and the Golf Links. IL Is not,
| however, for living sights that the pilgrim
seeks St. Andrews, but for the assocla-
tions that cluster round It's ruins, ana
| for the thoughts that are prompted by
remembrance of its past. 81. Andrews
| is to Scotland what Canterbury IS to
| England-the emblem of vast civic con-
fiict and a national tragedy-and as you
stand in the roOfess nave Of its once
/ glorious. now desolate Cathedral, and see
the moss and the trembling wild flowers
on its broken walls, and hear the moan
of the ocean-wind through It's lofty null
! lioned easements and around its crumb-
| ling turrets, so softly restful to your eyes,
YOU forget the present, ana remember
! only the princes and prelates OF a by
gone age, the zealots who fought, and
the martyrs who persisted, and all tha
misery and all the pathos Of the ancient
battle-long over and done with now
for liberty of conscience and of faith.
St. Andrews was the centre OF mat
contention. and it is replete with It's
relics.
In the dreadful dungeon. still visible
i'm the sea-tower of its Castle, Wishart
was held il captive, until purneu-lor
heresy-in front of the Castle gates WINE
Cardinal BeatOn and his companions OF
the Church looked on, eXultant. at
martyrs death. The old guide WHO now
lowers his lighted candle into that foul
abyss and garrulously prattles OF It's nor
roTs might make tanner theme gro
tesque; but his IS wholly tragic, and not
even comic volubility can dissipate us
gloom. Into that bottle-shaped pit MIX
caldy. of Grange, and his fierce cCnfeder-
ates cast the body of Beaton. and Tapped
II with salt, after they had murdered MN
I'm his bedroom OF the Castle, and dan
glel his dead corpse from the battle
ments. The windows or the Cardinals
rooms, I'm the great tower. still look Upon
the town From that Castle, when taken
by the French, John Knox was carried
away into his captivity IN the gilleys
Not much remains of the grim old struc-
ture now. but perched as IL was upon a
precipitous crdg jutting into the sea, with
a broad, deep moat around It's lanIwiii
sides. II must have been cltadtl OF
prodigiOus fOItitude; and it Is Formidable
even in its ruin. The waves were break
ing angrlly at its base. and all the sea,
for many miles around. was white with
wreatLs Of foam, as | looked down upon
IL from the windy height OF -. Rune
! Tower and In the oiiins single SNIP
with her sails close -reefed, was heavily
tossing on the surge. Just such "a spec
tacle may often have been seen from its
battlements by Edward Ballot. or Queen
Mary Stuart, or the Regent Murray. Ii
was long the abode OF princes before
II became the home OF priests. Beaton
as he trod its ramparts looked forth to
many a baleful blaze of the fagots Kin
died by his cruelty for the burning or
men whose faith was not as his. Knox
gazed from IL upon the Cathedral that
] he h2'e1, end that he Tas Cestntd 10
| destroy 1t was in the Town Church or
ST. Andrews-still extant and sim noble
| and most characteristic and interesting
ecclesiastical buiiding-Inat Knox preach
ed the renowned sermon upon Reiorma-
ton which presently caused the destruc-
ton OF the Cathedral, and OF the beau-
tiful churches OF the Black and Gray
Friars; and the pulpit in which he preach
-