The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-06-09
collar and again at the belt or made with

collar and again at the belt or made with
a round neck trimmed with frilis of lace
lust low enough to dispense with a stand
ing collar, and generally fastening at the
back. The skirts are almost plain, being
gored little at the sides and front plainly
hemmed and hung over sheer linen lawn
or, better yet, a taffeta silk skirt. The
sleeves are made in one or two puffs to the
elbow, where they end with band of in
sertion lined with lace. The white shirt
front is simply indispensable, and of course
looks its best when of the most expensive
materials, the finest being of chiffon, with
an applique of lace upon it, but as this can
not be worn more than three times it can
not be recommended except to those who
have ample means.
Yoke trimmings are still popular on
crepon and wash gowns, many pretty
ones being made of white satin covered
with jet or heavy guipure lace, and when
lace is used scarf trimmings of the same
fall to the skirt.
White satin continues to be used on all
sorts OF gowns, and when wrought with
ieweled beads or jet is very pretty.
Turquoise embroidery was used lately on
a very handsome gown, the conception of
New York modiste; the buttons were very
exquisitely enameled and tiecked with
black the mounting being of Jet.
One of the new Bolero Jackets is made
entirely of jet with great barbaric caba-
chons, having points of braiding from the
center, sort of amazonian armor
Mother of pearl is being combined with
steel as paillettes, as it is such success
with Jet.
There is vet another crepon called the
"elastic," which is intended to be made
up over shot silk, for instance, a brown
tint over brown shot with blue, the sleeves
of the blue and brown shot silk with chine
bouquets in the same coloring. This Gre
pom will stand a great amount of wear,
and really the cheaper kinds hardly pay to
make up. During the visit of the little
Queen of the Netherlands to England it
was remarked repeatedly how tastefully
and appropriately she was gowned one
afternoon when driving in the park. Her
dress was of pale gray silk crepon made in
! a stylish manner, with which she wore a
hat of rough gray straw with many feathers
of contrasting shade. Like a true child
! she enjoyed the novel sights, her bright
| eyes looking from under the wide hat brim
with most evident interest.
Instead of using so many buttons of in
ferior quality Rhinestones, let me advo-
cate those of handsome cut steel.
Pique holds its own, for it is to be had
in the plain white and what is known as
fancy pique, striped and spotted, in colors
with pale or dark ground. The newest
all have glossy, satin-like surface, COW
cred with some fancy pattern or striped
with little punches of flowers running be-
tween the lines and there are special de-
signs suitable for vestings, and also for
those who are fond of black and white
only.
The self-coIored piques come in the most
fashionable shades of pink, blue, butter
color, French gray and hyacinth.
Artificial flowers are becoming, if posi-
! Bile, more gorgeous than ever, and roses are
| the rage at present, while corn flowers rank
as second best.
Now I want to tell you about an alpaca
dress l liked. 1t is a dull blue; the waist
trimmed with straps buttoned with little
gold buttons, showing a shirt front OF
white and broad collar band and belt OF
blue and white checked ribbon. The eff
feet is excellent.
ready for Monterey, has a ' skirt Of rich rich
pink satin absolutely plain, hanging beau
tifully. The waist is of cream white lace
over the pink satin, the sleeves being com.