Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1895-03-09
ICES AND CREA M S
A Peep Into the Workshop Of a Ca
terer.
How Dainties Arc Prepared for So
ciety Entertainments-SOm De-
signs to Please the Eye.

the CHe1, III Wnite apron anu cap, Was MAN
ing lobster croquettes, while the cutting up
of the luscious diamond-back, SO dear to
the hearts Of gourmets, engaged the at
tention of an assistant at a neighboring
table. Near by beef tenderloin was be-
Ing larded. In the pastry room the head
cook was occupied In making very realistic
oysters Of a creamy mixture on little half
shells made Of waters. and with the pearly
insides counterfeited in icing. These were
served on a dish. with slices Of lemon. the
latter being also cakes. At q round table
a youth was beating with great vigor a
bowlful Of eggs. Near the oven baker
stood, constantly drawing out pans full Of
goodies. all ready for the finishing touches
Of icings and decorations, and putting In
others ready to be Drowned.
But 1t was In the ice cream department
that there was most hustle. There two
youths. who turned the wheels. This de-
partment has for its chief a very good
looking young Frenchman. who also wore
white linen cap and apron. All along
one side of the room runs great ice chest
in three compartments, each Of which
holds six cans filled with different ices. and
big enough to rejoice the heart Of even the
greediest of small boys. These were pack
filed mold Is packed with the desired
flavors and put in a small tub Of Ice, ready
for delivery. ..
An Elaborate Design.
At a big white table the head Of the de-
partment stood folding two large sheets
of brown wrapping paper into strips
about six inches wide. These he
placed on the table, with a small
square Of pasteboard in the middle.
and on that an ornamental round lace
paper napkin. Presently a box of cracked
ice was dragged in by an assistant, who
proceeded to unearth from its midst a
fancy two-quart mold This he handed to
his chief, who Immediately plunged 1t into
a great dishpan of hot water, which stood
at one end of the table. After few
twists in the hot water he withdrew 1t, and
elaborate pyramid of ice cream which it
contained upon the lace paper, he proceed
ed to trim 1t. There were creams OF sew
eral colors used, but the upper layer was
of vanilla. In little compartments near the
artist were little strips of candied an
gelique, candied cherries. etc, and into
each little projection of the design small
strip of the green angelique was put, with
here and there a cherry, and on the very
top a round piece of citron was placed.
Next, into the small end Of a paper cornu-
copia a little tin nozzle was fitted, and
the bag was filled with raspberry water
ice from one of the tins in the big re-
frigerator With expert fingers the dec
orator squeezed little f1uted ribbons of the
pink ice. forming quite an elaborate pat
tern over the whole top. Then, with great
care, the gayly trimmed ice was lifted
from the table by the long band Of brown
paper, the usefulness of which was now
apparent. and placed in good-sized tin
box, In which 1t fitted very loosely.
Then the assistant took 1t in hand and
proceeded to pack it in ice once mora.
Then came another mold of a different
pattern, and the upper layer of which was
of strawberry cream. which went through
lemon being
used. however, instead of raspberry, to
afford the desired contrast.
''bisquit TortonP' next engaged the
chiefs attention. A tin mold was selected
from the shelves full of them that lined
the wall at one end of the room, and placed
on the table. The mold was lined about
an inch and half deep with French vanil-
la cream, carefully packed. and then the
inside was filled with plain BISCUIT. After
being solidly frozen by being packed In Ice
for about an hour it was taken out Of its
icate strips Of meringue had been prepared
and these were laid all around the cream,
and also on the top: then. after a few dec
Grating touches. this. too. was ready to be
Various Dninties.
'Nesserode pudding is prepared in much
the same way. except that it does not have
the meringue and has marrons glaces
mixed with the BISCUIT.
dish. Little molds, in two sizes, represent
ing peaches and opening on hinge in the
middle, are used. A branded peach forms
the foundation of each. the space once oc-
cupied by the stone being filled with BISCUIT
glace. Around these the molds are filed
with French vanilla cream, screwed up and
put away to freeze. An hour or SO later
these are brought out and thrown into the
tin of hot water. Then each little pale
fruit 10 IN ar mt n nd nut
tin tray. Then. with expert fingers, the
artist paints each one with pink sugar tied
up in a loosely woven cloth. giving 1t the
real peach bloom, with downy look and all
leaf attached and here and there a blos-
som still adhering, which he next inserts.
After this the tray is put into box to
keep cold until wanted. Meanwhile, up in
the candy department, the basket weayers
are at work making a basket of whatever
color may be ordered to hold the luscious
fruit, in the shape Of those in which peach
es come to market. It was pink one that
was being made yesterday, and it was dec
GRATED with big pink satin bow on each
handle.
The making of BISCUIT glace is a most
elaborate piece Of work, the first step in
which is the pouring of about a pint of
egg yolks into a big copper pot. These are
vigorously beaten with wire loops on the
table for a few minutes; and then the
stove. where the beating Is continued for
about fifteen minutes. It was the head of
the department himself who attended to it
thus far yesterday, but he now put the pot
hack on the table and one of the assistants
continued the beating. Then he took an
oven bigger copper pot and threw into It
the whites Of the eggs he had already
broken. and beat them after the same man
ner as the yolks, first on the table and
then over the fire and then once more on
the table, until they were cold In the
whites was placed whole vanilla bean
cut into long strips. When the eggs were
cold the whites and yolks were mixed, and
to them was ADDED more flavoring and
quite a quantity Of brandy. Into this was
poured about two quarts Of whipped cream.
After this it was ready to be frozen and
mixed with anything that may be ordered
For Roman Punch.
Some punch cups and pink roses to be
filled with Roman punch were among the
things ordered yesterday. and the process
Of making these dainty little receptacles
was so simple as to be quite fascinating
One of the assistants brought in and set
on a side table a very large dish-pan full
of cracked ice, and into this the chief
poured quart of strong brine. Then into
the ice he fitted his molds a couple Of lit
tie mugs with handles, the mugs being
double and the inside lifting out to release