The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1895-04-22

For good many years we have
been looking to England for our mod
els of severe tailor-made fashion of
dress, over Queen Anne architecture,
Eastlake furnishings. and heavy, solid.
snartness in jewelry. But the French
have reconquered us again for their
own; the furnishings of the Louis and
Empire periods have invaded our
houses, the tailor girl has given way
10 a chiffon maiden with wide skirts,
loose sleeves, and languid luxuries 70
correspond with her soft, flowing,
Sloping- shouldered lines; the jeweler
has abandoned the crisp com DactnesS
of his settings to manufacture jewels
such as Clarissa Harlowe or EVelina
might have worn.
tn. New Bracelet.
Nowhere is the change more marked
than in the bracelet. Instead of the
hard, narrow, jewel-set band that
clicked into place around an athletic
arm, barred to the shoulder, the slim
white Wrist that appears from mys-
terry Of lace and transparencies is
bound today by a flexible woven thread
of gold. This bracelet, which is no
thicker than q small cord, is drawn up
or .et out through q sliding clasp IN
the shape of one large pink pearl, and
The loose end. generally about TWO
inches long, is finished with pear
shaped yellow pearl; the tint Of early
autumn moonlight. But the variation
of jewels is endless. Sometimes ruby
forms the slide, or a yellow diamond
the tag; or a cabuchen emerald swings
from the end of the cord. and white
pearl and diamond adorns the clasp.
The Popular Chain.
All manner of soft flexible chains are
worn. A pretty collar has five upright
slides of pale green olivines, between
which hang nine gold chains so fine
and soft that one can scarcely believe
they are woven Of metal.
The long Venetian neck chain, to
which the watch or lorgneUte are hung.
grows more popular and more splen-
did; the little seed pearls at intervals
which the Venetian woman thinks
quite fine enough, not being sufficiently
luxurious for her more extravaganza
American contemporary. Their place
is supplied by emeralds. turquoises.
pearls as big as peas. or even that
most extravagant Of luxuries-pierced
diamonds.
For Fair Threats.
Necklaces are made to match the
bracelets, with jeweled slide and tag,
scending to the waist belt, which can
also be Wreathed in the hair, or
wrapped half dozen times around
the wrist, was made fashionable by
the Countess de Castellane, and is be-
ing copied by all the goldsmiths. y
pendant, hung loosely around the
throat by thin gold chain, is more
fashionable than any other style Of
necklace and these pendants are
usually in designs of delicate Ara
besques of the Louis XIV, inclosing one
large gem.
Crowned Heads.
The same effect is sought for the
hair. The American female sovereign
has quietly annexed for her use the
corouet which. in Europe. is only
worn by the aristocracy, and it is no
uncommon thing to see, during the
opera season in New York, the wife
or daughter of successful merchant
or stockholder, blazing in jeweled
circlet whose diamond strawberry
leaves and large single pearls between
would leave the average Englishman
to suppose he was contemplating a
duchess.
The duchess strawberry leaves are
not the latest fashion, however The
small closed crown of the princess of
the blood is more popular. This is
worn rather far back, and is of the
most exquisite designs in Arabesque
with large pendant jewels swinging
loosely between. A lady who pays for
her crowns out of her husbands pro-
fits in carpets has just given an order
for one made all of pale, strawberry
colored diamonds. with five hanging
fire opals that every time she moves
her head swing lightly and shoot
forth long rays Of flame. She is a
glowing brunette who has a fondness
l.,
upon her dark hair will be sight
that most princesses of the blood
would envy.
A Revival of the POrtemonnaie.
This berufIled. begemmed lady no
longer carries the stern leather purse
of her tailor-made forbear. Her Por-
temannaie, out Of which come the crisp
new bills that the bank cashier saves
TO answer her cheques with, is
rather large, square pouch of velvet
encased in heavy gold hlagree with
tiny turquoiSes or amethysts set in the
balls of the snap fastening.
Carriers and Hat Pins.
The garters with which she gathers
Up her open-work silk stockings are
white ribbons broca6ed with forget
me-nots and slipped through old-fash-
Toned round buckles OF turquoise, or
rubies encrusting the buckle.
She pins her bit of a bonnet to her
head with a hat pin whose head is a
tiny jeweled dragon-fy, for the dra-
comfy is par excellence the fin de
steele insect. The butterfly is nowhere
beside him, and as for the lately be-
loved frogs, grasShoppers, birds and
snakes, they have all vanished before
the new conner. The dragon-fiy has
his gauzy wings and bodkin-like body
enasneled with every known gem and
with mixtures Of half dozen different
sorts. He is worn in long, slender
brooches to hold huutering laces in
place, he fastens the boas of sweet
peas, violets or roses wsth which the
young woman garlands her lovely
throat this spring, he pins wells. and
he is most splendid fastened to the
delicate gold wire that bands lovely
heads. and spreading his fhree-inch
wings of blazing diamonds above the
left temple. z. 3.
E-S~