The morning call., 1895-03-03
ALL ABOUT THE
LATEST FASHIONS.

front and back with pearl ornament.
The sleeves are short and of new shape,
q tight band at the armhole and petal
frill, like a bellfower, standing somewhat
stifly therefrom. There are satin bows on
the shoulders and large Alsatian bow at
the back of the waist.
Fashionable women are showing a predi
lection for the futed skirt with scarcely
if any trimming, just a narrow roll OF
satin or velvet or jetted cache-point. In
deed, the skilts OF some of the most elegant
toilets are devoid of any sort of adornment.
On the other hand, bodices are much
trimmed, great originality frequently
being shown in the mode of applying the
embellishments.
The latest styles for evening dress may
truly be called sumptuous, the richest of
materials being used in their composition
beautiful silks and satins, plain and elab-
orately patterned velvets in combination,
with costly old lace, beads and spangles.
Accordion-pleated silks, muslins and
Grape are in great demand, as well as chine
gauZes.
There is a marked tendency to diminish
the bulk of sleeves, especially where thick
fabrics are used.
NtCh lIllHIllllSS OI al QtSCT1DllOnS COLI
tinue to be perfect craze, for they are be-
coming and impart quite a dressy appear
ance to an otherwise plain gown. The
cape has not abdicated yet owing to the
large sleeves, which in a measure prohibit
the wearing of jackets. And capes shown
for the coming season are more lovely than
ever; for my part, l only hope they may
continue in vogue for many moons.
The toque remains favorite headgear
made with a draDed or plain crown. Some
OF the newest tOques are laviShly trimmed
with spangle steel, sequins, Jet, besides
flowers of the brightest hues, buckles and
aigrettes. In San Francisco every woman
requires a small hat or toque during the
summer, as it is so difficult to manage
large chapeau when the trade winds pre-
vail.
The latest bonnets are all wide across
the top. An exquisite little capote was
lately worn at an afternoon reception.
1t was made of velvet in a lovely shade of
blue. In front were two wings of shaded
green spanglees and clasp of turquoises
and diamonds. What lovely petticoats
are now to be seen, and how easily they
are made at home. One pretty girl who
will be shortly married has had a number
OF them made lately at but a trifing ex-
penditure. One is of black chine silk,
with colOred flowers scattered over its
glossy surface. 1t has a founce of rose
pleated frilI of black chiffon upon which
are stitched at regular intervals rows of
pink and green ribbons. 1t is only one of
many, all of which she confessed were
made OF pretty remnants picked up at
bargain sales.
Really it is my opinion that unless a girl
is very dull indeed there is no reason for
her not to have, even on a small allow
ance, pretty, dainty things, if she will take
the trouble to do little contriving. Most
of US have heard Of the San Francisco
bride who has $3.50 petticoat in her trous-
seau, and it is a beauty. Many of you
have seen it, | am sure, but there are more
girls who have only $3.50 to purchase their
entire outfit with, and | make such sug-
geStions for their benefit. Wise maidens
have doubtless taken advantage of the late
sales and now have ready for the Lenten
season many lovely bits of silk and lace
from which will be evolved fetching waists,
dainty collarettes and many other things
which are destined to play sad havoc with
the summer young man. A pretty dinner
or theater dress has skirt of white pekin,
with black stripes, and white satin bodice
like low blouse, cut square, yelled with
waved black mousseline de sole, the latter
a novelty; full balloon sleeves Of pekin, on
the right shoulder large loops of black
satin and on the left butterfly in point
q dAngleterre, In front fall Of waved nous
seline.
Charming blouse bodices are much in
vogue. Although full at the waist and
round the low meek they must be made
over a tight lining.
One I much admire is of light blue satin
draped with guipure, gathered in front
and falling over the short balloon satin
sleeves. This is worn with black satin
skirt brocaded with sky-blue carnations.
The well-known Partisan artist, Nine.
Madelaine Lemaire, has made the fashion
OF dresses hand-painted on velvet gauZe
and silk the rage in France.
She wore at her last soiree dress en-
belilshed with her own painting. The
skirt, OF dull white silk, made with three
godets, was ornamented with large painted
baskets loaded with flowers; the tablier
had at the lower part a large bow with
out ends OF grenat velvet; the low bodice
was enriched with deep white lace; waist
band OF grenat velvet; the large sleeves
were IN the Venetian style of the sixteenth
century, open on the shoulder and draped
with a mass OF lace and white chiffon bouil-
lonne.
Another gown lately seen in Paris was of
pekin black and vieux rose, enhanced with
Alencon lace falling over the vieux rose
velvet balloon sleeves. The pretty fancv-
striped wash silks are being much used:
for instance, a belle here is getting one
made for spring wear of a narrow soft srav
olaNS Nltli a b1eNh oll II. Inc
skirt will be four yards wide, tbe waist a
blouse and large sleeves, the only trim
ming being a full pouch effect of black
chiffon, while cuffs and crush collar are
OF black velvet A butterfly bow of ribbon
velvet adorns the back of the blouse. long
ends falling on the skirt. An equally at
tractive dress is for a schoolgirl of ID to
wear at Monterey. The silk has
white ground with a blue stripe, so
blue ribbons and Irish point will trim the
dainty costume, while hat of white
satin fancy straw with pink roses and
choux of blue chiffon will frame dear
little face.
As l said short Eton jackets will be
worn again this spring and summer, and
as they are charming affairs when cut by
the hand of good tailor or modiste, | can
not but shudder at the recollection of the
horrors turned out by the hundreds which
disfigured so many excellent figures last
wear. for the truth is they are desperately
difficult to cut and fit properly:
An invalid friend of mine has been de-
scribing a tea gown which she has just
ordered. 1t is to be of fancy .petunia and
black silk, the fronts embroidered with
gold and shaded sequins. The back will
be plain and the large sleeves graceful and
comfortable.
Speaking of coiffures, every possible
style is IN be seen so no one has any eX-