New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-12-01
CHARLOTTES.
SOME DELICIOUS DESSERTS.

SOME DELICIOUS DESSERTS.
There desserts in all the range Of the
cooks resources so easily made, so wholesome and
delicious as charlotte russo, yet perfect char
otte russo is a rare dish in domestic cookery. The
vast majority OF housekeepers seem TO prefer to
depend upon the inferior charlottes furnished by
cheap bakeshops than to take the risk of pre-
pairing this simple dessert at home. This IS prob
ably because OF the general belief that il is i'm
possible to get in the city thick enough 70
whip This true OF the markets OF New y DIRK
a score Of years ago. but to-day 1t is as easy to
get good cream in NewYOrk as in the best farm
ing district OF the country.
In the matter OF milk and cream, city IN the
world is faithfully served than is New-fork.
II pays enough FOR It, he is quite likely 10 get
Attorney cream. which is too thick or heavy 10
whip and must be thnned with milk or ii will
turn to butter before It froths. Contrary 20 the
general idea. the best cream s not needed
medium cream, but not a thin cream. whips better
There many churns and patent heaters for
cream. The professional cook, however, uses an
ordinary whip made OF Eight wire, and accom-
plishes his purpose in ABOUT half the time OF the
novice using a churn. II all consists in knowing
how" After the simple motion OF cream-beating
IS once acquired. 1t is no more trouble than beat
ing eggs Yet the fact remains that it has been
80 difficult for the average woman TO learn how
to beat eggs, and to boil eggs correctly that
fortunes have been built up on patent utensils
which offer 10 do the work without any expenditure
of brain power on the part of the worker 1t has
been frequently shown that cooks more often fall
in the simplest portion OF their work because II is
not done in exact methodcal manner than they
do in more complicated processes TO which they
deign to pay more attention. She who would
tri Imph in this matter must. like a French woman,
De mistress of details The beating OF cream is
detail OF work by which, once mastered hundred
delicious desserts are at ones command
Nothing makes a prettler garnish than a wreath OF
beaten cream low crystal platter, arranged
around roseate mould of strawberry pudding.
snowy dish OF iced rice or charlotte russo tinted
pale green with pstachio icing An excellent
quality Of cream may be purchased in New-York az
about 30 cents a quart Double cream. at 40 cents,
is usually too heavy. All this. viewer, depends
on the dealer No will whip evenly into
froth as there will always be about half a cup
full of liquid left when quart Of cream has been
whipped TO froth. Theoretically, cream quacrupies
in bulk Actually. this depends its quality.
Three plnts of whipped cream is a liberal allow
ance for pint Of ordinary cream.
To make a charlotte russo large enough to fill
two-quart mould or twelve individual mouds. take
pint of cream 1t must he perfectly fresn ana
ice cold Set half the cream which should be
put in tin pan or large earthen pudding-dish, on
a pan OF cracked ice and begin beating with the
very ghtest wire whip you can ind Inc one the
writer has always used cost five cents. and has
been in steady family for cream and eggs for
dozen years. There are bamboo WHIPS III
the shops that about % cents and are said 10
be excellent for cream. but the French COOKS
generally prefer a light wire. TIP the dish COLI
tanning the cream little, so as to bring II one
side and begin whipping softly at first; and as the
froth rises increase the swittness Of your strokes
When a thick fine froth covers the cream, skim II
of on a sieve set over an earthen bowl 10 drain H.
and continue beating steadily till only little cream
that will not rise remains. Now beat the other
half An expert cook Will beat a pint OF cream 10
a froth without stopping TO skim of any portion
but il is easier for beginner to divide the amount
There is no harm in using a cream churn. If it is
large enough The miniature tin churns sold at %
cents in the shops playthngs and OF no practcai
value To be OF any use churn should be at least
three and half inches In diameter and ten incnes
high Such churns can be made order but are
not ordinarily on sale They are generally used IN
cooking schools In place OF whips because 1t re-
uiires a little muscle the whip than is
required to a churn. The churn Is more trou-
bic to wash, and more complicated yet some women
succeed admirably with 1t when they fan TO use
whip
AS soon as your cream Is beaten and drained set
It the ice. for It will not go back" as eggs WILL
but is all the better for resting on the ice.
charlotte russo mould Is an oval basin about three
and a half inches high, with It's side sloping more
than the boned-turkey mould, which Is OF similar
shape The two-quar size generally costs about ~
cents. II made OF superior quality OF TN, and IL
Will last lifetime II kept only for this purpose In
dividual charlotte moulds arc three inches at the
top. two at the bottom apd two and half inches
high
The moulds are FIRST lined with sponge cake about
half inch in thickness, or. II you do not wish TO
make the lining yourself with lady fingers or
French biscuits a la culllere." split In two leav
ing the fiat side OF the lady fingers the inside
Season the whipped cream with three tablespoonfuls
of powdered sugar. sprnkled In. and three table
spoonfus OF sherry one OF maraschino or half
teaspoonful OF vanilla Mix the sugar and havoring
In thoroughly. and Ill the moulds with the whipped
cream. Tie recipe given calls for whipped cream
favored and sweetened. alone. This is the proper
filing for a charlotte russo No gelatine should be
used to s,lffen II. When this Is done the flavor is
not as good. and the froth Is no longer as delicate
In texture Il should be. At the moment OF serv-
ing turn out the charlottes carefully frcm their
mouds on a low glass dessert platter and garnlsh
them with any whipped cream left. and put a little
on top OF each individual charlotte russo In the
case OF large charlotte pipe the bottom with
whipped after turning It out and wreath
whipped cream around II.
The most delicious charlotte russo Is made from