The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-09-08

This week I expected to begin with elab-
crate descriptions of some of the creations
worn at Del Monte's ball, but have changed
my mind, az you would simply be bored If
did, as no especial novelties were seen.
However, what can one expect? This is
the mld-season, and the new fashions are
slowly-very slowly-reaching US. One
gown from Doucet was worn by matron
with quite the loyeliest complexion I'M
aglnable, and the skirt was worth a
modlste's going all the way to Monterey
TO gaze upon, the cut being most unusual.
1t appeared to be almost as wide at the
TOD as at the bottom, and was laid in small
pleats all around the waist, which had the
orawlng-string effect which l have before
mentioned; but instead CT this fullness
having clumsy effect it was exceedingly
graceful and pretty, and other gowns fresh
from Paris now in New York are said to be
oeslgned IN the same way; and, wonder OF
wonders, 1t is announced that stout women
can wear them as well as those who are
slender, there being no real masslng OF
material, 1t all having been cut out from
under. Now, about the other gowns.
There was the fair, dainty young girl in
paIest blue mousseline de sole over tatteta,
and the very blase, faded blonde in gown
OF dead white, which strangely emphasized
the coming wrinkles although 1t was q
chic, well-made gown. The trouble was,
the gown was modelled for girl of Is; the
wearer will never be 81 again, and it was
no fault of madame'S that she was so I'M
flttingly CARRIED, as Miss Blase is famous
for insisting on having inappropriate cos
tunes. Foolish woman, l wonder if she
ever viii look in her glass and see what
we have known for so long time. A pity
oculists cannot furnish proper glasses for
such people. as 1t IS all due to queer de-
feet in their eyeSight.
Odd is it not, that profoundly learned
article has not been written on this topic;
but 1t may be some day, you know. Now,
before leaving the blondes let me add that
no one was handsomer than the tall, stately
woman, in her rich and queenly robes,
who is so devoted a mother and whose
home of graystone is in the Western Ad-
dltlon. Now. / might go on and talk
a bout ga blue dress, green dress, pink
dress and a yellow one" but not having
been there to see 1 cannot ascertain that
any were extraordinary.
Most were fresh and perfectly new,
which remark does not hold good when
the duck and pique dresses. SO gener-
ally worn, are under discussion, for
many of the women seemed to have
great dread of large laundry bill and wore
gowns that were positively far from fresh
on more than one occasion; but before
4CdNIi1S ILLS lOp4C IuUSG lcl1 you IudI q
little woman was quite stunning in a con-
lection of black and white, the skirt having
been of white satin, adorned with single
huge bow of black satin, which should at
once be named "bat bow" so much did
1t resemble one; the bodice was of the
sheerest black silk chiffon over white satin;
great bows of black satin ribbon sprang
from the armholes, one on each side, and
stood out boldly against the white satin
sleeves, which were beautihed with some
fine Jet embroidery. A belt of Jet encir-
cled the waist and the toilet was COM
pleted with some exquisite Violets.
bright woman just back from this
resort amused me by remarking: ''Odd, is
it not, my dear. that one always finds those
women most simple and unaffected who
are well born, while those whose only crest
can be washtub, a cooking-stove or a
whisky barrel have the rudest stare and
the NEST utter contempt for US who are in
any way dependent on our own exertions
for 4 Iivelihood?" This is a great and
glorious Republic. but the man who looks
for blood and a pedigree when he buys
horse is scarcely consistent when he SAYS
he does not care rap for it in people. He
does care, but thinks he makes himself
popular by such remarks.
All honor to the men or women who
from mental positions rise, through honest
endeavor, to affiuence If they have good
hearts and do not provoke by uncouth con-
duct and much staring amused inquiries
as to their former station in life.
One woman here, who has more than
any one else know of to say in ridicule of
San Francisco and her people. would be
considerably surprised If she only knew
that several are aware that her father
drove a stage instead of owning the lordIy
estate she is SO fond of abiding to; but it
&c %rr1a harI all ha hos told
however. what the steeds were attached
to. If this remark makes her more eau
tious in her assertions Marcella will have
done good Sundays work.
What a pretty girl she is, was the COM
ment made a few days ago when Mob
Hill belle entered a JaCkson-street car.
She is tall and slender, her complexion
milk and roses. and her brownlsh hair rip
pies in delightful little waves around her
shapely head, and about her is always the
delicate perfume OF violets. | know it
simply means that her gloves and laces
repose in drawers IN which are tiny bags of
orris, but it adds to her charm. On
this occasion her skirt was of the latest cut
and of rich black satin, and her waist
of most becoming shade of blue taffeta
with a hair line of black through it. A
deep fichu effect was carried out in butter
colored lace, and here and there, in exactly
the right places were tiny rosettes of the
silk. Long gloves of yellowish kid and
black straw hat with black feathers coEi-
pleted a very attractive costume-one
suitable for early autumn lunch parties,
and let me advise you all to purchase for
the winters campaign a similar skirt. 1t
will be quite invaluable if you go out
much.
The large stylish bows worn at the back
of the neck at present are called in Eng
land "EOllOW- me-Iaddle" BOWS.
An important and welcome piece of
news comes from Paris, and that is that
capes shall continue to be in vogue. The
full, plain, all-round capes which reached
the knee or just below the waist last win
ter will still be seen, but they will have
powerful rival in another form of cape,
copied partially from the shoulder capes
worn by the Medici kings, for it has three
godet pleats in the center of the back and
meets in front, whereas the kingly garment
fell only in the back. Velvet is to be the
most popular fabric and hand embroideries
of Jet will figure on the pleats as well as on
the fronts. One such cape, as far as cut
goes, has already been worn here by
slender, graceful young matron, but in