The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-09-29

o.
vets will be worn, but the most distinctly
new kind has brightly tinted floral chine
ground where the blurred colors sink into
each other. overlaid with white velvet
Conventional design giving a soft and
novel effect which is charming. Velvets
and velveteens are also shown COW
cred with a large bold pattern printed
and generally of vivid orange and red
tones, but the pattern is always CASH
merriam in design.
Quite the latest silks are to be had in our
stores, but as yet the newest velvets have
not arrived. Some patterns of quite diff
ferent styles of silk have solid grounds of
color, covered with a Iace-lihe design in
black all over them, the ground either
chameleon, which means three shades shot
together, or two tones only.
Stripes are much in vogue-that is, the
perpendicular ones, not the horizontal.
The attempt to bring the latter in failed
completely. Taffeta chameleons are in
favor in Paris. Dark shades, with a sparse
brocade like wild geranium, will make
useful dresses. A pretty taffeta shown
here has chine stripes, with which mingle
embroidery effects, lines or stripes OF
minute flowers.
Such combinations and mixtures of
tones as were the delight of our grand
mothers are much sought after for winter
wear.
For evening wear the "ar algamations of
tint" are worth noting. Blue, pink and
white, peach, white and string color are to
be worn by many leaders of fashion.
Very beautiful poplins with self bro
cades, light strong and pretty, with
minute patterns, are being warmly well
coined, many blouses being made OF them.
The Duchess of Marlborough has had
made five gowns of this fabric. One is of
a rich double white imperial poplin, hav-
ing much the appearance of terry velvet.
4 black ore with an extremely fine rib is
handsome, as is also a costume of pale
blue. but the most novel one is brocaded
pOplin the pattern of which is silvery
white plumes upon a lemon-colored
ground.
The basquines, the pretty hip trimmings,
are to result in basqueS, and the Louis XVI
styles will hold their own. / do not doubt
that Marie Antoinette, Princess Lamballe
and Nine. de Pompadour are to be the
inspiration fOr many winter tollettes, as at
present in New York "The Queens
Collars" is being given at Days Theater.
The play is mounted in a superb manner.
Mrs. Potter, the star, dresses magniticently,
as do also all the members of the court,
their gowns being the richest CONNECTIONS
of Worth and Felix, and it must be re-
membered that the production of this
masterpiece in Paris caused the revival of
many long-neglected fashions remarkable
for their great artistic beauty.
Vogue's Paris correspondent, in one of
her latest letters, tells US about visit she
is paving at most delightful old chateau.
Her hostess had an idea which will bring
about, am certain, speedy and absolute
change in the fashions of to-day. Tired of
seeing her feminine friends scrupulously
follow the modes imposed by our great
Partisan couturiers she made up her mind
that at least during a portion of her
'sejour' at her chateau she would feast her
eyes upon something different than the
eternal godet skirt, puffed sleeves
and 'tutti quanti' In order to attain
this fortunate result she sent out invita-
tons to ten of her prettiest and most ele-
CANT friends asking them to spend a week
at Etiolles, and to personify during the en-
tire time of their stay there, at least in
what concerns their costume, their faVorite
heroine in fiction or history. 1 need not
add that these original invitations were
enthusiastically accepted, and at the pres
ent moment we are funny crowd here,
although a very good one to look at.
Among others there are Diana, Vernon,
Maruuise de Pompadour, Marie Antoin-
cite, a Charlotte Corday, a Queen Elizabeth,
Carme~ a Marguerite and even Jeanne
d'Arc-p rsonifying the new woman of
that period.
Now that not few of our clothes are
modelled after the gowns worn by Marie
Antoinette and the Pompadour, am not
surprised at hearing from an Eastern
friend about Pom padour supper which
was served after dance at which many
costumes of chat period were worn, not
only by the stately matrons, but by the
buds as we'll The table was all garlands
of smilax and pink roses, with here and
there touch of blue.
Supper ia bles all in white and gold, with
lust the necessary amount OF green, are
most effective, and will probably enjoy
large share of popularity this winter.
lam delighted to see that East the fash
ionable set are awakening to a realization
of the fact that our women do not dress
appropriately for church, and one writer
thinks that, considering we have the most
rigid restrictions concerning the proper
gowns to be worn on all other occasions, 1t
IS high time to consider an appropriate
should be noticeable for their quiet sim
plicity; the most exquisite materials can be
used and the best of modists can fashion
them, but the American woman should no
longer wear her finest and most dressy
garment to devotions.
The Countess de Castellane (nee Could
is remarked for her simple and exquisite
costumes. She has worn many white
alpaca dresses this summer.
/ have just seen the announcement OF
the marriage of Miss Elizabeth Barnewell |
to Frederick Coutts of Providence, r. l.,
and it recalls the fact that three years ago
this young lady, with her friend, Miss
Helen Lawrence, established herself in the
millinery and dressmaking business in
New York on Fifteenth street, near Broad
way. She preferred to better her financial |
affairs instead of regretting lost fortune.
Their efforts were crowned with complete |
suceess II is q pity more pentleWOmen