New-York tribune., 1895-10-13

, huge naring Medici collars, which appear the
gowns. separate now and are easily ad-
justed and there fchus In every color and style,
the genre paysanne and the genre Trianon. These
are useful in making simple house gown dainty
or renovating last seasons frock.
And then the bouses, 1t the leading couturieres
have united IN wholesale crusade against the blouse
the shops are displaying them at wholesale prices,
and indeed they never cheaper or lovel!er.
They not new. and they are. think, going OUT;
but afraid most shoppers Will be tempted TO
invest heavily in them.
| two beautiful gowns at the Bon Marche
yesterday. They are quite lovely enough to have
from Worth Felix, but the fact that they
exhibited at public shop means that the style
Will become before long. public property. They
are both jacket gowns OF the modified Louis XVI
period, and built OF fowered silks One has a
pompadour rose pattern a white ground. The
fitted Jacket turns away In collar. revers and mar
row fiat side pieces running from the bust to the
bottom OF the jacket. which is trhe below the
waist.ine. These all faced with red velvet
covered with lace. and the cuffs OF velvet
covered with lace figures. The vest and
chemsette OF white null laid In soft fiat folds
and fastened by a OF diamond studs
The other gown is also OF fowered silk on
white ground. but has al,over design with
great deal OF blue in it, The collar and revers are
OF heavy stifened cream lace. lightly dotted with
mock jewels and edged by frill OF cream mousse
line de sole. This is very prettily Joined TO the
collar and revers with a narrow rufiie1 heading
The revers end at the bust and the side pieces OF the
jacket held to the figure by a OF large
brilliant buttons; and just below the wastiine
strap Of the silk IL shaped into point and connects
the two jacket sides. The choker has wired lace
points harlng away In front and the sides
These are jewelled and edged with the moussellne
de sole frill The turnover cuffs have large but
and edged with the moussene de sole
The vest IS OF white silk null shrred at the bust
and arranged above in fiat folds and dotted down
the middle with OF small brilliant buttons
These gowns are both very pretty and In the pres
modes. Although in early summer letter
! described the cut. and noted some OF them
the summer races. they are only beginning TO be
generally displayed. Naturally. they much
cheaper In the large shops than they were in
the private places that originated the style. But
they have but this moment appeared there with
other new things; and this shows that there is
little use in purchasing things beyond necessities
intended FOR the coming season at the large shops
during the summer months. The shops in Paris did
do very we'll this or last summer. and they
complain that the Americans are growing economI-
ca.-"they and ook" they say. but do not
buy"
They have not yet evidently fully grasped the
fact that Americans going 10 load their
trunks and pay Custom House duties on things
they easily find at home about the same
price There time when Paris trademark
its worth to command consideration with intelligent
buyers. Americans great travellers and lavish
buyers OF foreign goods: but the time comes when
they tire Of being cheated.
During the past year great wall has come from
the dressmakcr well from the shops. Their
American clients falling or and they resent the
fact rather than try TO understand the reason
for L. II they could put into French Linco.ns
remark about foo.ng some Of the people all Of the
time and all of the people some OF the time and COM
prehend the that they can't fool ali the American
people all the time, II would be excellent in
tellectua exercise. Their idea OF American women
is that they are pretty and willing 10 spend any
amount Of money TO be well dressed: that they
can accomplish this result at home is fact the
French mind cannot grasp.
The American dressmaker really struggles under
a great disadvantage. she pays least third
more for rent service and work than the French
couturere does also a heavy duty on all silk and
velvet imported-whch expense the French places
are spared To be sure. there Is duty on English
wools here which excuses the ta.lOrs for charging
more for their gowns at their French branch
establishments than at the London house: but the
duty Is by no means heavy as that the American
importer pays.
Because fashions still originate In Paris and be-
Paris designers have chic and daring
In combination that the American has hardly al
talned fears 10 launch II she has. the American
dressmsker In forced to come 10 Paris once or twice
every year. and 10 import expensive modes Tor