The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-08-25
THE WOMhN
OF FhSHION.

Tuxedo. Aug. 24.-The early autumn is
here in all the country resorts. and the
autumn girl energies as If by magic from
the lawns and organizes. the muslins and
laces. the shimmering stuffs and laguish-
ing poses Of her summer state.
The autumn girl Is creature of the
brown fields and breezy hilltops She
wears bunch of golden rod at her belt
and maybe some purplish blue ssters at
her bosom; and her dress reminds one Of
the former rather than the latter
She carries over into autumn her gol-
fing craze of the summer. and tramps with
flushed face-for IL the nights are autumn
nal, the days are still summery-in plaid
skirt and sleeves and sailor collar. or a
colse stock at the throat
or she dons plain skirt of cheviot
with puffed sleeves Of the same old staple.
and all down the front of the bodice loose
pleats of creamy chiffon. Or with skirt
reefed to the angles, showing her yellow
leather leggings, and with her hands
gauntleled in similar tints she walks or
rides her wheel indiscriminately. For the
autumn girl is finding out that the same
gown is good to bike in and to walk in
1t is a particularly swell device this au-
| tumn to grid the waist of blue or gray
or brown dress with snowwhite kid belt
| and white inner waist to correspond.
| The white and the blue is the prettier COM
| bination. but the brown is distinctly in
favor; and it matches the golden rod bet
teri
Farmers call this regal yellow flower of
! he. aNrrrN A.
| brious names and lay campaigns against
| 1t with scythes and words of abuse. But
| II Is the autumn girls emblem. She gives
| and takes golden rod parties, decks her
| rooms with it and has 1t about her in great,
| billowy, golden heaps needless OF papa's
| fear OF getting hay fever from the pollen.
| The autumn girl is sometimes arrayed
| all in black with trimmings of white and
| maybe a touch of red in collar belt or
| bodice to give her gown spice of deviltry.
| A mountain costume reported from Lake
| George is all of black, somewhat more
than walking length, with skirt of scanty
| width and entire length unrelieved save by
bit of white at throat and cuffs. Need l
| say that the wearer had pretty face to
| which all this eXpanse of black served as a
! background, and that her mountaineering
was mainly confined to hotel piazzas?
The autumn girl in one or two instances
shows herself partial to black and pink,
with the pink in full force at the bodice
/ 'front.' or in the lining of jacket.
She takes very kindly to alpaca, as to
| other styles of garb whose names have an
old-fashioned sound; and to lawn she
| still clings, though it is rather summery
! facing its cool and almost translucent sur
| faces with fiery red placid Innings
There are cheviots, blue mainly, made
up with white or ecru and smartened with
a touch of gilt or braid and buttons, which
are rarely effective.
There are yachting suits Of wonderful
beauties and virtues being prepared
against the time when all the autumn
girls rush down to the city again for the
cup races. SeTges and white duck are
| most IN favor l think nothing looks finer
as really pretty suit of white duck worn
with white cap and white shoes; and when
one is really at sea, such garb does not
get dusty as on shore. The yachting cap
is still worn by reason OF its innate ap-
propriateness, but not so much, / think,
as some years ago. II is almost impera-
tive with the white duck suit throughout,
but with any other costume plain white
sailor can be worn; and 1 think this form
OF head covering Will be fairly frequent
on the slipping decks this fall, as it has
been all summer on shore
We may talk of the autumn girls and
the joys OF the mountaineering, but there
is always a workaday woman-surely
| IN that category comes the one who writes
of gowns-and her street gown. One wo-
man of fashion. limited by her means to
moderate expense and by her tastes to
| moderate style will follow pretty closely
the general outlines laid down last spring.
| Her shoulders may slope a trif1e more, her
sleeves may be a trife less balloon-Iike.
her skirts may be less stiff and out-stand-
ing, but the half worn spring design can
be renovated and reworn without exciting
| remark
There is more and more talk of the
| styles of 1880. l have seen in a country
| resort window an extreme steeple crowned
| hat whose odd shape was the very coun-
terpart of one shown in fashion plate
| of 1927. don't think 'steeple crown" is
| quite the word. The crown of the partic-
ular 1927 hat l mention was more like an
| old style dice box, even bigger at the fiat
| top than in the middle
With fall hats will be used a great deal
of the kitchen garden style of furniture
j There will be hats whose autumn sugges-
| tiVeness is of ripened harvests dropping
vines and laden boughs-nlums, grapes,
| cherries and even more prosaic things.
| Whatever the Audubon society may say
about them bird wings are far prettier,
and they will, fancy be much more in
evidence. One hat have seen which used
/ four white wings, bows of Dresden rib
bon and touch of black to give empha-
sis to an ordinary combination of white
/ with lace. The Dresden ribbon is as pop
ular as it is beautiful, and will be much
| worn this autumn as a garniture for
gowns as well as for trimming hats
! But i was talking of gowns and gown
materials when the mention of the steeple
| crown of 1927 led me astray.
Brown mixtures with black and red are
popular. So are light woods of the style of
| certain crinky crepons. They call them
| honeycomb woods. which is certainly an
| effective name. Roughly tufted woods
which give an effect of weight without
really weighing much come within the
| same category. and command themselves
| as much to the dress reformer as to the
| women of fashion.
There are brown whipcords and cordu-
roys which are well enough for outing
| suits, but for street wear / would advise
a woman to turn rather to the wonderful
effects that can be produced with autumn
| silks
Color is the keynote of them ALL Plaid
silks is the winter analogue to the plaid
serge or chevoit of the summer golf links
or woods trail. Striped silks are recover
ing the popularity which two years ago
they seemed to have wholly lost There
are silks which aDe the peacOck nv their