Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1893-1895, 1895-09-04

ward winter they will become more
marked and distinct. Tho new loose
waists have tho bishop sleeves drpopinp
from the shoulder and having cuffs deop
or narrow as ono may prefer
Sonlo CT To new soparuic waists cost s1b
and S-0 and yet they appear extremely
simple. One was mado of fine white mo.
hair and embroidered by hand in Bulga.
rian stitch In duh blue and rcd washable
colors. Ono wide band was worked around
the middle of tho sleeves. The cuffs were
covered with IL, and so was the collar.
Two narrow rows were worked down each
side of the front. Across the upper part
of tie bust were cords and silver buttons
i mention this in detail because this
Bulgarian embroidery is going to be seen
on everything whore IL is possible 20 put
1t, even ON black wooden goods where the
surface Is smooth. To mako It one must
get some loose meshed canvas and baste Il
to the goods or garment and work the
stitches through both. When IL is all done,
the canvas threads are to be pulled out,
and this leaves the pattern directly on the
goods or tho made up garment. This Is
work that cannot bo done by machine
and therefore IL will never be common or
cheap.
There nro now silks in some of these new
pattern waists copied after old, old time
goods, mostly patterns Of printed delaines
The minglingo of oolors is very artistic, but
the patterns themselves are superlatively
ugly. There was ono pattern waist plated
from tho shoulder and punched up at the
bottom in n slight blouse effect. There
were draped belt and u stock collar OF the
material, with soft bow at the back OF
the neck. Down the front and on the
shoulders were straps of black velvet rib.
bon, held by silver frosted buttons. This
Is calculated for tho young ladies, though
the same form has been exactly followed In
dark prune and heliotrope peau do sole and
satin duchess for more elderly persons.
IL Is certain that the "waist" has an.
other winter before it. saw delicate
shrimp pink and moss green striped taffe.
Ia whist In blouse fashion, with six stripes |
OF moss green taffeta each edged with mar. |
row butter colored lace. These were
brought down the front. There was a
square collar OF tho moss green silk, edged |
with lace. Frosted silver buttons fastened |
the front. The belt was made like the
stripes. Tho sleeves had cuffs of the green,
with square pointed chatelaine cuffs fall
ing over the hand. These, also, were edged
with plat val In butter color.
There was among these new gowns suit !
Of brilliant lilac rough orepon. The skirt
was plain. Tho waist and sleeves were OF
green surah, just the color Of lilac leaves
Over the shoulders was an immense peler-
Inc OF yellow point do venise. Down the
'front.' OF the waist there was a double jabot
Df' lilac silk NULL and there was fancy
Iash bow OF green. The sleeves were quite
arge gigots. The importer told me that
The expeceod TO SEQ sleeves made quite
mooth on the upper part OF the arm before
winter set in but that the large sleeves
we're too cool and comfortable 10 give up
while hot weather lasted She also thinks
hat there will be considerable OF the deep
rinkle crepon worn tho coming season,
hough It will not take rank as "A high
lovelty. There are some new ideas In
hese crepons now being wrought out and
nc will be those with loops OF wool thrown
lp ON the surface OF the upper orinkle.
That will bring IL In the limit Of the new
rise fashions, which will be seen on al
most everyNhing In wool and mixtures.
There was costume complete for a gar
en- party, which will describe, partly for
Is own beauty and partly because the gem
raj style will bo reproduced Immediately !
Or many handsome fall dresses. One is
D be made 20 order In ashes Of roses ar {
lure, with black lace trimmings. This is Z
delicate salmon pink taffeta with !
ream shades The skirt is full all around, I
lough cut with fine cores. Tho cores are s
OF very sharp, and that leaves ample J
idtb 10 make clusters Of fine narrow Q
aits at the waist line all the way around o
etween these clusters there arc double !