New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-09-29

sons and fall we'll away from the shoulders. There
are lot OF oddly shaped collars and yokes which
form epaulettes and rise into high chokers; and a
combination OF white satin and yellow gupure Is a
fsvor!te trimming Belts are inconsplcuous when
they do occur: and the waists have fitted basque
sides with sometimes a narrow soft front which
is more like a jabot OF the stuff than blouse.
charming gown Is Of black crepon. which every
one Is firing OF and no one believes Is going to last
much longer. but the material Is Of little import
ance for the gown depends on the clever trimming
for Its undoubted cachet. The skirt IL cut with
many seams and the front and side seams are left
open bit to show a narrow line OF white satin
edged with tracery OF jet. There Is no bet; and
In the back, about three inches apart two stiff
short little jabots Of green velvet which hang down
on the skirt
The sleeves cut to show several seams and
line OF white satin This way OF opening the seams
and more workmanlike than to outline them with a
fold laid over the dress goods The bodice Is fitted
each side at the bottom OF the deep square collar,
Is green velvet jabot matching those IN the back
The white satin collar is very odd, and In three
pieces. First there is square collar forming a
yoke front and back and rising in straight round
choker The collar with the exception OF the
choker is trimmed with heavy yellow lace passe-
menterie and light sprInkng Of black Jets. There
are side pieces similarly embroidered and bordered
with a narrow edge Of the yellow lace. These four
e and rS in Nng ns Wings s on OF each side of the
choker These wings are lined with green .velve..
plain white satin band exposed for few inches
under the chin and hardly at all In the back. as me
in the back, making again little jabots :.
These stif jabots, about five inches long are very
they arranged two at the back OF the choker
couple OF inches apart two more to corresPon pom
a very smart street gown is Of a navy blue and
dull gold cloth. with the skirt trimmed with four four
the fitted bodice which is worn with no belt, IL an
Gdd e ean tnK o on harrow U straps in the
back. But these widen into nat wings over me
sleeves and then a In two tabs IN 'front.' f nnSss
below the waist. The whole velvet Jacket Is outlined
with sable. The bodice is fitted on the sides but
purs in a soft vest between the velvet tabs The
high rolling velvet collar Is edged WIN SAP sane anu
This suit Is quiet and almost over severe to be
shown by Paris house as model put II Is now trS
for ordinary street wear.
In direct contrast TO this Is gown OF piach
ing Louis XIV flower pattern on black ground;
The skirt has scant hounce OF the fancy stun
sole; and this nounce is raised enough to show
trimming about the bottom Of the SKIRT eoPp pesa
a The e"f narrow belt is composed OF three distinct
twists OF velvet, OF green, the middle one OF
dull gold and the third one Of rose the touch OF dui
s? The round bodice Is fitted with back and sides Of
black satin covered smoothly with moussene qe
sole the front being Of the Theye again a odd
and elaborate collar and choker. II Is OF heavy
yellow lace with puffs OF green velvet pullen
through the larger meshes in the lace and the col
lar is edged with a double ruchlng Of black mousse
line de sole. ,.,,.
Although the changes In style come very Slowly
this autumn, and do not appear to be radicai wnen
introduced separately. they are very marked Wneh
compared to the modes of last spring for IL II haru-
ly lust to take the summer season. Wheh ihattIlaIs
Of light weight call for style or their own aWays
neeting) as a standard for comparison: Inc mos
cheerful thing about the present mode II the scope
II gives 10 individual taste and preference ,,
Last spring we had the very fu. untrlHmeu
skirt: enormous very much trimmed sleeves prI,s
And chokers In pairs. and always the blouse. Nine
out OF ten women. II not ninety nine out OF nun
dred wore this style of gown differing only III COL
Ors and materials. - ,.. r,otr
mr. soft vests: and fitted round bodces, with ruilen
or talbot fronts are To be much worn ana are not
such a radical change the basque bodlces, al
though quite different from the blouse 1hen there
are a LOT OF fancy co!ars-indeed every mousse ma
rs own patterns and great many patterns so that
one has wide choice. =, 49,. 49,. 10
sleeves are inconsplcuOus. that Is all that can oe
aid OF them at present but Is not that a great
ieal, For they were anything but lnconspicuou5
asst season The sleeves now are generaiy, ,h9etu
almost ALWAYS OF the material used IN the pouict,
and droop away very mOdest.y from under the Dig
collars Skirts may be plain or trimmed TO SUIT one
own liking and the trimming may be arranged III
volants or in fiat panels or in outlining the seams
r'hIs little summary seems to show that women are
Going TO have every opportunity TO look their Des
this autumn, and. Incidentally. to spend deal OIL
money In doing