New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-01-20
THE ENGLISH DINNER.
WHAT IT Is AND USED TO BE

WHAT IT Is AND USED TO BE-
From The London Queen.
As matter Of fact startling though the PROPOSE
ton may sound it is safe TO assert that only very
small percentage Of the inhabitants Of London ore
in the true sense of the term Years ago we went
in for THE good old English food'-roast meat
whether prime beef four-year-old mutton roasted
as il held only English cook could roast;
fish carefully boiled in pain stated water. with the
national melted butter and the sauce cruet Tor
accompaniment: vegetables innocent OF everything
but sailed water: a rich mass Of cheese. eggs
cream etc. disguised under diversity Of names
and always plentfully seasoned with what was then
called Ryan pepper: and variety of sweets of-to
present tastcs-alarming so.idity and richness and
there with the addition Of 'pppins and cheese, be-
hold the Engshman's banquet
When the close OF the NapoeOnc wars set Erltons
free once more to travel, the maccaroni ana the
dandy brought back with them ideas when did not
ft in with tn, style Of the good old English gentle
men all OF the olden time; they had acquired
taste for kick shaws and frtcasseys. when oe-
came ndispen BILE at the tables of the cultured ana
refined Then after the Crlmean War, we borrowed
what from compliment probably. we chose 10 can
the Russian dinner. in which the gooi ola fhsS"
dishes we really could cook properly were sup
panted by awful "ongtrays' from the pastry-cooA
round the corner in the style rendered familiar by
certain w NJ Thackeray. At last the worm turned
and educated by the club chefs. men began to ne
mand In their own homes something more nearly
like what they got abroad; and then came the era
of intelligent gastronomy. when we hitiereo our
selves that we really beginning TO understand
the dainty gourmetterle so long the prlue o' '"'
neighbors outre-mer.
Cooking has improved doubtless enormously VI
l,,e wears and we all pay an amount of attention
TO our food that would. generation or 80 ago nav
seemed little short OF wicked AT the same 'i'ne'
is a question II really coming nearer '"'
ideal we profess TO he straining after Even "he''
the cooking is good. the arrangement OF the ,atpsI
The menu In short-leaves a good deal TO be desired
II is no doubt a fearful accusation 10 prlhE pu1 ~
fact remains that in too many cases vuishI''y - "a,
hesettinr sin OF our easironomy From not caring
or at least. caring but little ior me appca
or dishes we have come 70 a love OF otiill,. ~
for sheer ornaments sake that threatens To over
whelm our growing taste Tor culinary p', ~ III
Talk Of gliding refined gold ana itinuhG VI, :" ~
W. 40 worse. we choose material Of the ilneSt dnu
are not content till have 50 over aden ~ ma ~
naIate Of the connoisseur to tell what the orsinn
taste could have been. Experse; quantity m rhirb
and unexpcctedness are tho desilerata 10 ,hor
@vervthlng is sacrificed: so long as We get stra"'
res months before We can nope LOT ~ 1"Y brami-new
and so extraordinary hat no one has ever see" o'
heard Of them before we arr snsc ,onu ,s that
# should so harmonic that the separate paf1Ss
form but one dainty ~hoi a ~ give cacn dish its
utmost value II this be granted We have AZ or
Piled ain win unconscious condemnation Fruit .iG
on, OF season has never fcach'i us lul 49, 49,
U.s. % ea," and indeed the substance OF the
Mats which depend for their success on .h'' r
,,iore4 before the consumer Iiping not "'''
nmcntiv they are not perfect The nulin'l "'
dishes has rendered the possbi',y oi hd o
much on hcr mind. and on her range. ,nH' ~.
has ~ f, r"malns they are none individually
nerfect, Now the greatest sinners IN thl- way a.,
ll"onon Very few are naturally sasironoHcaily
"tf,cd AZ long as tho things look right. 10 use
ih,lr phrase they are content. ana ~ 'Dn. d. -.
,.o'iiigRI" french names they arc quite satlsn'
In fact. they enjoy inc very SAM 1r b@r
animates the wee maid who sets out TOT NJ IT,
''doiies'' magnificent banquet ~ most aPtouz,hs
(wooden) dencacics; NoT " Ne .u en-, ~ ~ want
food as we'll appearance, and th'ii .oi',il ~, ~
disusion. The consommt vs. e.'hs aenDe and the
Impossible from the quantity 9' a, ~, % las,
Inevitable Worcester sauce added )urt a, We ,
ito bring up The naVo na 90 re- soes on through the
dinner Now consider the difference on ih''.I
e,v,ls o1r nm, councn with your cookery book and
The almanac and thus settle your dinner. Souf
asyo,ed soup is a patent apfritif Fish goes WIN
nnt saving Then. as the men OF The parry nav.
been hunting otherwise engaged our V 1, -,
during the day they are hungry. so We WI, ~
the French plan. and give them a '1' I'LL ,,
lilies and leave them AT leisure 70 ENJOY ",
dainty CONNECTION OF the cnirre. "hi'h, ".r
Then game is at It's best now so 'a a o. ~ M
lectcd Again. the master OF the nous, ii1,p a,
vcsntabIe entremei IL de risueur NeSt follows 'nr
iced soufie or mousse. lastly. the my 49, -, an
orncr yor nmsbands claret then last Of
ain the fruit. and Its successor me car, Soun
fish relieve mot necessarily JOINT. 10y any ''a',''
an enree. rot vegctable sTe o am ~ ronrse.
mat rarnish9 royalc perhaps. Tor NE ~
I ~ H.. mad, Ike the soup. early IN the diy'
and whil. thc former is heating IN tnc paln-
marie the latter can Doe heated by rinslns ~ VII
into dice In niue ho SuI tt, ., Cbni,ron or a
na ,r sauce: chAieaubrand aux pomin' ,
soufiEcs a delicate chaufroiN Amer .ii', ., :.
coast grouse OF pheasant an cr"sson. tona',s ~
Ia,r,Ienons q, prctty llttle dish 81 Inlnc' NUS,
rnoms etc arranged In baked tomatoes, 49,"
vcpcfablc cnfremct. while monsa" " !" J"po"' ~,
and pacs Parm"san hu h4piihn ,,,",, round or
strongly favored with coralIinr p.IV.t' '"'n,ton
~ apnctizng little menu that. with Inc 'no p'D'gS
81 ,hc ic~ should be well within tn calapi'','
really good plain COOK, hI. n n"t ,hc ordinary
line Two SOUPS one white paste. disguised unu, ,,
nm Impossible foreign name, ~. n'n nr,ns ,hst
blacksh-b brown liquid very @ BE- ,ue, stand?
bugc ,norsel of neh. probably b'WN'i W a..
Toto a. may originally have had by an oFfilUi.f ~
nersion in plain water ana hc'Ip I'M, dinner in IT,
III men Two dishes which are either an incAInhtip
%, dvsncnsla or 80 manfestly extran"ohsN Pe'losss
az no r.s, of the menu Then follows a loiht -.
some sort-bakcd alas the WINE -u, ut ',tnarv
nave mostly deprived us OF our one Mo- 4
talent roastlng) with two dishes OF VcRt'hn'l
49, ,,nd nothing else worse luckD, Whilr an
extraordinary chaufroiN OF lobster i"'1 IT,, n
nrawns or other iin"arrah,dn,,, ,t,rq
mace az indgestble ornament. Dolby pTv'i"1',
i,seIf the rot IN defiance Of language, To De lpi
loved with sweets stiff with gclatne ana coio,'"
out of nature blend OF eyer KIM KIM .. ;,h SaI1ghi
~" ~, rpnrhot "eavory" when heral1s our hosi =
! unouestionablc wine. i this such very wv
! charged picture!
| UJsTOHY As SHE LEARNED