New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1895-05-19

the first floor. where between and among the
sculptures with their surroundings OF palms. the
crowd thick. and from the distance APP
peared to be moving slowly. that the hats and
gowns merged together In mass OF yariesated
coors.
One could not fail to get strong impression OF
cornf1ower blue OF the exact shade OF the natural
blue;s. This color seems to predominate IN al
crowds OF gsyy dressed women this spring. ana
the artificial flowers must be manufactured by
thousands TO supply the demand for them Paris
lennes rarely wear costume entirely OF one
color They look for a contrasting note to en-
phasize the effect; and slilful couturere studies
her color scheme In much the same way in whch
an artist makes a composition for picture; never
theless I have seen several costumes this spring
of this intense blue with nothing TO relieve H.
II is hard to explain its popularity for 1t Is not
particularly becoming and was thought at the
time to have outlived Its usefulness last spring
gown OF blue crepon had belt OF black satin
ribbon Ribbon enc.rcled the sleeves at the shoul-
ders fastening on the top OF the shoulder with
some fiat loops. The sleeves OF this gown were
very smart" They were not held down In any
way but were so cut as to define the top OF the
arm and then to increase in fulness toward the
chow the fulness falling In loose folds Inc nat
was OF bluet straw, trimmed with duets ana
with stiff loops OF fancy gauze ribbon in the back.
A buet crepon skirt was worn with n DAINTY
blouse Of fancy japanese crepe in which the
prevailing color was lavender. The blouse was
fastened with some quaint studs OF amethys's'
ard the chapeau was entirely OF bluet.
| saw a gown at prominent couturieres lateiy
OF bluet silk with every seam in the godet skirt
outlined by the heads of the artificial flowers sewed
thickly together The bodice was blouse OF
gold lace with sleeves and collar OF bluet velvet.
carrying out the idea OF the flower The elbow sleeves
were looped up by line OF duets on the OUTSIDE
OF the arm; ard a bunch extended under each ear
coming from under the collar This costume was
20 be sent to Nice complete and included a parasoi
Of blue SIX covered with gauze on which the
flowers were th!cky sewed, and tiny bonnet OF
gold lace and duets.
There attempt TO use arthcial ho"ers
on daytime frocks during the winter; but the fash-
ion seems better suited TO spring. and saw thr
idea very well carried out on several 'vernssasc
gowns dress Of II soft gray wool had n narrow
pointed panel on each side OF the skirt OF duli
green leaves and few red berries. the blouse
was OF green net, with some of the leaves ana
berries outlining and trimming the deep nat coia-
OF green satin
pretty gown. showing that daring combination
OF colors ONLY possible to skilful dressmaker, WAS
OF gray silk blocked off into squares by buet-blre
stripes and sprinkled with gold embroidered dots
Sleeves and skirt were OF this. and the blouse was
OF shot green and gold SILK. Win epaucues OF
exquisite yellow lace the tops OF the sleeves
and meeting on the bust.
There several new ways or trimming the
plain chokers that arc being worn. One pretty Idea
~ TO have loops OF inchwide white or colorcd
ribbon extending out over the 'op OF the ugn'
collar puff OF white satin about the throat
with the collar holding It. is very modsh Some
times there Is puff on each SIDE. extending out
just under the ear and the rest OF the collar plain
! This last idea was used a fetching gown or
black satin by well-known American
woman. The bodice Of the gown. aside from the
sleeves. was entirely composed or irldesceht pair
lettes; and over the top of the sleeve was full
/ ftif lilo of OH
OF cream lace. tying in the back: and under each
ear. above the lace. puff OF black satin. the
hat was OF yellow straw completely covered with
roses OF AL shades. and with broad, ARTIFICIAL grass
arranged in huge noends. There were roses on
the wide brim and more roses against the hair-a
veritable picture hat
There not many women who to wear
historical style to which fashion may not at pres
ent be giving It's sanction. Witf the Napoieonic
craze IN dress just dying. and the Marie Hh'ohette
modes showing vigorous symptoms OF resurrection
1t was bold idea have costume made with n
Louis XIV coat This gown was beautifully worn.
and showed the unlmtabie "cachef OF irst-
class house TIE material used was striped bro
caded pear. and Nile green silk; ana the sKirt was
full and modsh. The skirt OF the jacket was long
and fui and the jacket turned away IN Droad
revers showing stock and runied vest OF white lace
The reVers' pocketpieces. and narng turhed-oVer
GUNS were OF green satin. The Guns were s'asned
up on the outside and finished with lace rufiies AL
most covering the hands
Several OF the leading houses here snow jacket
effects on their new models and they say That
these models have been very successful. People
are beginning to tire little Of the universal blouse
or round wais,
Paiiiettes grow In popularity They have bad
habit OF turning any light color they touch ed ana
the white satin collars they 20 often trim must
necessarily be short-liyed. Sleeveless Jackets and
nes}RIettee are c3dsars made ent're n and a'e
or null stocks and falls are sprinkled with them
) Al pi"ce on Inc Rue de- La Patx. they shoWto