The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-07-21
THE WOMAN
OF FHSHION.

has left the big station where the Havre
train lands him. and stepped out into the
big open square just in front, is that ev-
cry Frenchwoman-and they are easily
distinguishable-is holding up her skirt
I To be sure she is always so represented
in the French papers Of lighter vein. But
we have ascribed this general attitude TO
a playness on the part Of the artists. who
| took perhaps too great liberty with their
/ fair subjects.
But the artists are true enough TO life.
| Not only does the Parisienne lift her skirt
/ but she does it in much the same manner
/ as is portrayed in these same journals.
/ 1t is not matter of necessity-her skirts
! are not long and the streets are
! scrupulously clean; neither does it protect
/ the skirts edge. For she simply takes up
one small section. at the side toward the
/ back. and holds this high regardless Of all
other parts.
The reason is obvious. There is always
! a pretty skirt beneath, which II is more
! expedient to display than the plain walk
! ing skirt above. And this pretty underskirt
| is very general. There are degrees of it.
to be sure. But even the humber working
! girl, when she walks out on the avenue.
will show you a dainty thing in piRk or
! blue lawn, with lace and ruaies.
Needless TO say that the richer ones are
in silks. in satins, In heavy brocade, in
| gauzy batiste Those in taffeta short. with
rufiles all northumberland, not machine
one gets for, comparatively speaking, "a
song" in Paris.
! But for her who has no interest in econ
omy, but only in the dainty the beauti-
! full, the most fashionable, there are far
finer skirts than any of taffeta silk. Felix
is making some for his eXacting patrons,
and there Is not a taffeta among them.
I'VE make them only occasionally. and
for ordinary street wear" he said. But
| here is one of our prettier creations. Taffe-
Ia is merely the foundation, you see"
And so l perceived. A narrower skirt of
corn-colOred taffeta was below trimmed
with two deep rufiies. over it fell very
wide skirt of paler corn, in softest satin
| surah, with small godets set in at the bot
| tom. The godets were modest, nothing
but inverted VS., and each one was run
with insertion. A very tiny ruffle Of lace
finished the skirt
Another was also in two portions, caught
together only by the waist band and 50
| held as to be easily separated. This be-
cause the upper skirt was of clear batiste
and required laundrying. The lower skirt
was of corn taffeta agatha popular shade
| this season, Felix eXplained-but this time
| very full. quite as full as the upper, which
was gored, and had a fine insertion set
in each seam all around the skirt. The
| deep trimming at the edge was alternate
rows of insertion and tucks of there ba-
tiste, with a deep lace rufiie finishing all.
The gathered back was generously hung
| with satin ribbon Of the corn tint
/ I NJ nd
"Ah!' he said, slowly shaking his head
| with a smile, you ladies' are very tickle,
| but this year your caprices are all in the
right direction. American ladies in par
ticular, are going back to old-fashioned
| chemises, corset covers and skirts This
union garment" and he lifted rather con-
| temptuously what looked like the prettiest
| thing imaginable-"with chemise knick-
| erbockers and skirt, all in one" Is no
/ longer worn. We start once more with the
chemise, and it is of fine linen or finer
batiste. We use the simple empire cut,
! put a little ribbon at the lower bosom,
! and that is all. The linen we embroider
| in fine vines, like this, with the vines mar
! rowing off toward the sides. OF course,
we never trim with embroidery. The ba-
! tiste we trim with lace, generally Valen-
| ciennes-it is daintest for the purpose.
| They are made simply and almost tight
| fitting at the top, SO as to occupy little
| room.
Drawers are very wide, with trimming
| running up quite far-generally tucks, in
! sertion, and lace ruftie
| Corset covers are of two varieties-the
! empire, like the chemise with very fine
! trimmings, or the small figaro, which is
| stil4 very popular, tying, as 1t does at the
! bust 1t is so small that 1t is often pre-
| ferred to the larger empire.
Now / will show you our silk sets; for
all the ladies are not so sensible as the
| Americans" he remarked jovially al
| though l caught the twinkle in his eye,
land we are obliged to make silk for some
| of these
Surely no one could blame the less sensi-
BILE creatures. The first set was all in
green-a beautiful, clear, pale tint, in the
best Of India, not China silk. 1t was
trimmed with fine point instead of the Va
| lenciennes that suited better the batiste.
| The neck started with two bands of the
insertion, closely set together just below.
! an insertion of the green was made by fine
| shirrings. and another and a single band
of the point finished it. The shoulders were
| only two rows of the lace, with floating
| green ribbons at the shoulders, and chain
of green set into fatty laid loops, at the
bottom of the shoulder straps.
A nightgown was with the set. There
| the double lace band formed a stock coll
lar, set over green, and there was much
| of the same yoke arrangement, save that
! there were two insertions of shirring and
| two of lace. The elbow sleeve puffs fin
! ished with double lace bands and choux
of green.
The knickerbockers were equally dainty
MISUNDERSTANDING, and a ruffle of the
| point at the edge.
Even the carriers were things of beauty
all in green, with quantity of satin loops.
There was another set in plane blue.
| In II the puffings ran up and down. instead
of across, with the insertion separating
them. A small ruffie of blue ran up each
/ side of the yoke, narrowing into nothing
| ness over the shoulders.
In this silk department saw another
! exquisite skirt-one that had a pink silk
| foundation with the ruffile unostentatious-
| ~ pinked; and falling over a petticoat Of
striped silk gauze in even paler pink. One
stripe was -pleated, the next en-
broidered in a tiny flower design OF
| deeper rose tints.
The corset silk was all in white. and
| all ACCORDION pleating-skirt, chemise
| Knockers, etc, even to the fine yellow lace
that trimmed it. Everywhere there was
white satin ribbon in abundance-broad
and narrow. Surely it would need a de-
licate grace to carry those delicate gar
| ments.
| 7 acI-o5 -v,o,-+ fo- y,,orpfper o-o,yp- sftVa1Y