The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1895-12-08
A STUDY IN CHOPS.

"Chops, sir Z? Yes, sir,'' replies the waiter,
Immediately gliding across the room and
transmitting to the cook the following para
phrase of our order, 1.-TWO muttons to fol-
low" which we again may, for the benefit OF
those gentle readers who have not been
initiated into the mysteries of city chop
house, explain to signify that one and the
same individual requires two chops to be
cooked and served up in succession, SO that he
may eat them both as they come reeking and
piping not from the gridiron.
Having made these arrangements for our
prandial meal we wait in perfect confidence
the advent of the chops, spending the few
minutes that elapse before their appearance in
contrasting the wretched dish of thin dry,
hard, blackened, frizzled objects-which we
had at our boarding house yesterday with
the plump, succulent, tender masses which we
know right well from numerous experiences
are preparing Tor our delectation. 1t is need
less to ask any benedict to institute like
comparison. Chops at home are an abomi1.a-
ton, makesh1tt-a mere means of eking out
an otherwise unsatisfactory meal Does a
friend drop in, and benedict's wife states that
they have nothing left, but that they can soon
cook chop? Notice the elacrity with which
the offer is declined with thanks''-where-
upon benedict and his friend sally forth to the
they despised at home.
If we seek to discover the causes which lead
to the vast superiority OF the chop at "Joe's"
over the chop at home we must have recourse
to the first principles of culinary chemistry.
The flesh OF the sheep, like that OF all other
animals, is not simple body, but consists OF
acted upon in different manner by heat In
order TO practice the art of cooking success
fully, and In accordance with the science of
chemistry, we should know what the various
substances are which compose our food and
what are the effects of different degrees of heat
on each.
The most abundant Ingredient of flesh is
water, which constitutes three-Guarters of its
weight. 1t must, however, be borne in mind
that this water contains dissolved in 1t certain
proportions of substances OF the highest posi-
BILE value as articles of food; hence it is of the
utmost Importance in all the processes of cook
cry that not single drop, if possible, of this
juice OF the flesh be permitted to escape. Its
retention is necessary to secure the succulence
and sapldfty as well as the nut-itive character
OF the meat.
OF the solid constituents of the flesh one of
the most important is that which constitutes
the tbers, or grain of the meat. This is termed
by chemists fibrin, and although in some mys-
blood, in its solid form it is quite insolube in
either hot or cold water. Fibrin is hardened
and contracted by heat, even when the tenn
perature is not greater than that of boiling
water.
Another substance existing in the flesh Is
precisely similar in all its properties to the
white OF all egg, hence it is appropriately
termed albumen. In its liquid state albumen
readily disSolves in water, but, exposed to
temperature even 30 degrees short OF boiling
1t hardens, or coagulates, and becomes quite
In addition TO these substances a certain por-
ton of gelatine exists in the flesh. But as the
quantity is not large, except in the tendonous
and sinewy portions, it is not very important
TO our present ject.
Having spoken OF the action of heat upon
these constituents OF flesh when in separate
condition, let US now consider its influence
upon them as they exist combined in the
meat. On putting the chop down to the fire
the first effect OF heat is the coagulation of
albumen the surface exposed to it, By this
EJACULATION the flesh is rendered solid and an
outside layer is formed through which the
juice cannot pass. II the application of heat
be longer continued, the increased tempera-
ture causes the hardening and contraction of
the fbrin; this contraction squeeZeS out the
juice which rapidly escapes from the side of
the chop farthest from the fire, and should its
action be allowed to continue the meat be-
comes dry, hard. insipid and innutritious.
The experienced cook, however, never per-
mits the temperature TO rise to such degree,
and the escape of the juice on the other side is
prevented by the frequent turning of the chop,
30 that the insoluble coating of albumen is
formed on both sides before any can be forced
out by the contraction of the fbrin.
Practically, the rules to be borne in mind in
broiling are as follows:
The chops must be cut of thickness GER
tainly not less than one inch and half, and
they should be severed from the loin by the
saw, so as to be uniform in thickness: they
should then be placed down to clear, bright
fire, so that the albumen of one side may
be Immediately coagnlated, and then they
should be at once turned, and this
turning be repeated almost necessarily until
they are done: ii fork is thrust
into the flesh the juice escapes through the
punctures and the chop is spoiled; therefore q
pair of small tongs should be employed for
that purpose. Should chop be cut in two to
ascertain ii it be sufficiently cooked, and then
put down TO the fire again, it is Immediately
spoiled. The golden rules of broiling chop
are: a. Select thick chop. (2) Take care
that your fire is clear and bright. (3) Let the
turning be rapid and incessant.
Attention to these Will secure great i'm
provement in our domestic cookery, and with
little practice the chops at home may even
rival those at "Joe's."
But here comes the waiter with my first
mutton" Ali Just what l expected-a
model chop-done to a turn.