The herald., 1895-02-03

! effects being tried on them. Already
| separate banda of these cut-out cloth
designs are being sold to insert at the
bottom of cloth skirts when the costume
itself is not cut out.
Curiously enough, lace appliqued on
| the dress is holding its own. Several OF
the very best frocks are being made
/ With adornment of ths kind. One OF
| the newest gowns ia in plum cloth with
vslvet facings and sleeves. The
buttons are OF jet surrounded with deli
cate black braiding, and the corselet ie
also braided or appliqued. A corn
! flower blue velvet and cloth with white
lace application and choux of velvet on
the sleeves is also OF quite the latest
manufacture. The inner part OF the
vest is in chiffon drawn over self oolored
elk.
Walking dresses are made almost ex-
clusivsiy with plain skirts. The few
| drRperies which are eeen are reserved
for evening models. Variation OF the
plain skirt is found not only in the fur
Dand at the edge, but in panels and in
stripes of velvet ribbon or braid. Many
godet skirts now have each godet plest
separated by very narrow panel OF
some other material, usually OF
lighter color. 1t cannot be said that
this sort OF panel is an improvement, on
the whole. Far prettior is the skirt
with back and sides together,
edged with fur, and small silk
panel on each side OF narrow,
iur-edged tablier of the skirt
material. The braid or ribbon stripes
are compromise for the pekin effects
which are much in vogue. A cloth akirt
is certainly effective. closely striped
vertically with lines of jet or velvet, the
stripes opening out with the growing
width OF the skirt. Each stripe finishes
in some sort OF curl or flourish. and, as
a rule, the stripes arc alternately long
and shorter, to prevent overcrowding
where the fourishes occur.
AS dress bodice to be worn with
out mantle, and made of velvet.
there is sort of low-necked figaro,
decorated with a splendid reverse col
lar OF fur. The sleeves can be made
of velvet or OF the same material IS
the seamless under-bodice. The velvet
bodice can be double- breasted. tasten.
ing with buttons, or it can be open.
Some of these smart little velvet jack
cts are gagged on eeamess cloth
bodice with a futed heading. When
we'll made, they are stylish; and they
fur, they are only suitable for outdoor
work.
Black or velvet jackets, mostly of vel
vet or velveteeD. cut in figaro or Eton
shape, are greatly in evidence. A
pretty jacket OF this kind ia OF butcher
blue vslvetsen fastened at the waist with
a metal clasp and lined with russell
brown silk. A second chestnut brown
model has very short fronts extending
gradually to the waist at the back it ia
trimmed on either side with three large
silver buttons, and it is to be worn over
8 blouse OF medium colored elk crepe.
Tbs jackets for evening toilettes
should attract attention, one OF yellow
guipure embroidery with jet bretelea
with tasHeled enda, the other of dark
velvet eppliquss mounted on silk match
ing the skirt. There ia also pretty
shape for demi- toilette, this consists
of gu open jacket of black velvet, with
very Large revefs. gigot sleeves, and
buckles in front, between the fronts OF
which appears vest OF coiorsd silk or
chiffon. Some of these Jackets are
made with second longer basque,
either in white or q color answering the
trimmings.
LUXURIOUS PETTICoATs.
The luxury OF our underskirts lie TAX
ing really lerious proportions, so much
80 that it would not be surprising if ex-
treme simplicity were TO follow ere very
long. Just imagine, under the most
ordinary WOODEN costumes. worn per-
haps for the morning shopping.
We see the lovslest ekirts of
light-oolored MORE or pompadour
brocade. ouch as noble ladies of old wore
for their gala robes. Yes. all those
beautiful materials painted by Vatican.
all those lovely and delicate Powered
silks are now ignorninously appropriated
for under akirts, to be worn under
coarHe WOODEN costume OF serge or
chsviot.
Black, however beautiful its material
may be, ia entirely removed from a
fashionable lady's under toilette. Only
the most delicate tints are now worn
underneath, es the palest OF lilac. let
tuce green, the softest of pink, sky blue,
ecru, cream. etc.