The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1895-07-07
THE W0MhN
OF FRSHION.

that stood around. and could only admire
the beautiful equipages and their more
beautiful occupants. as they rolled swiftly
Gle! One could distinguish more Of its
details outside. for on the stand it was
only bewildering mass of soft colors.
Outside, where the dark background OF
carriages afforded some slight relief to the
bewildered gazer. it was still great con-
fusion. where one distinguished only cos
tunes. No room for faces-and it was
just as well. the faces did not invite admir-
alton, on the whole-room only for bon
nets and parasols first, and, as they rolled
nearer. for gowns after.
One might have shaded his eyes from
the glaring sunlight for a moment, and
fancied it to be night, and the broad ave-
nue. to be a great drawing room. For.
apart from high necks, and they were not
all high. most of the dresses there might
htly have been worn at any brilliant even
ing affair. 1t was a picture Of rich silk
pompadour in almost every case-of heavy
satin, of old lace over something heavier
but equally magnificent, of silk GAUGES
Overrun with delicate vines, Of lace and
chiffon skillfully combined, and of the
finest flowers and dotted Swisses, thrown
over silks. 1t was a picture of hats that
rarely. if ever. accorded in coloring with
the gown below: of rich black hats, tiny
bonnets, great, dropping leghorns. the IA
vorite Louis Seize. the pretty pompadour;
of black plumes and white plumes, pink,
white and red roses, white and black and
yellow and every other color of mousseline
choux; picture of parasols that swayed
and bobbed little with the motion of the
wheels; of simple parasols. in white or
pale-colored silk, with tiny lace insertions
set In, or fine embroidered bands set over;
with here and there a mousseline tuft.
Look for yourself and see passing in
swift and brilliant succession:
A creamy white pompadour skirt, with
rich pink coloring. and corsage of nous
seline gathered into a slender point at
back and front, with a delicate design Of
pearl embroidery almost covering 1t.
A gauzy and delicate canvas in pale ecru,
over turquoise silk, with pretty effects
where the canvas was cut away, and lace
insertion or ruffle put in its place. showing
the blue more striking; the whole sur
mounted by heavily plumed, all-black
hat
A lace-it seemed to be genuine point
tightly drawn, not loosely hanging over
white satin; the bodice bespangled and
embroidered with royal purple and a royal
purple belt, in velvet; above all, hat Of
deep yellow straw, banded with black vel.
vet and trimmed with black plumes.
Another heavy skirt, this time in the
richest of shell-pink brocades. closely, yet
finely, interspersed with gold-truly a ma
terial for reception or ball gown; light
gauzy bodice of pink, yelled with three
separate partitions of black gauze back
and front alike, each section caught to the
other with shining ct crescents; the black
gauze was gold embroidered; lastly a hat
of fine white, with fresh pink roses above
the face and fall of fine lace, but at the
back, under the upturned brim, close row
of deep, glowing roses-a pink that almost
turned to red.
A green vision, with entire puffy cos
tune in lettuce green taffeta, and with
rather large but fiat hat in deeper
green, rough straw; white mousseline
chauX, set between the lilies of the val
ley that lie strewn over the brim, while
the lilies grow straight up where the brim
turns up at the back.
1t is. perhaps, the one point which
most of the hats have in common-the
upturned back edge where one sees a
great bed of roses, set close to the hair.
irrespective of the hat or its trimming;
or they are deep crimsons, burnt yell
lows, and, perhaps, one other tint. Even
at Virot 1t is the only definite thing
they can tell you of the hat of this sea
son. "Ah, mademoiselle, what would
you? Is there not enough similarity in
gowns, and would you have a style in
hats as well? How tiresome it would
bel 1t is all fancy. CAPRICE no two are
alike; rarely is one made to accord with
the colorings in the costume.
1.-The nearest we come to rule, and it
is not always followed, is to recommend
the Louis Seize hat, trimmed with dash
ing ribbon bows and plumes, for walk
ing; these tiny things that we call foul
is'-confusion-that are nothing but a
mass of chiffon and spangles and gold,
for afternoons; these high, slender
crowns, with brims of Italian straw, gen
orally trimmed with orchids or roses,
with a black velvet knot here and there,
and a quaint old buckle, for receptions;
and these big pompadours I'm MANILA,
garlanded with delicate crepe roses, in
pink or leaf and lettuce green tints, with
a few curling aigrettes at the side, for
any festive occasion. We have also the
PREDETERMINED capelines, Marie Aptoin-
cite style, that we trim with big knots of
faille, with ruches of black chiffon, and
with sprays of blended peoples and deep
nasturtiums for the back.
There are some others" The Others"
included more than one in fine, pure Leg
horn, with the high, slender crown rising
between tall, graceful plumes, one side
exactly corresponding with its opposite,
each waving amicably toward each other
At the base there were the chiffon choux,
or the fiat gauze plating, or the wreath
of pink roses, and at the back there never
failed the row of glowing or more modest
roses. These were patrician, elegant.
The rough straws were not so, but sug
gested lawns and summer retreats and
GOODNESS.
A pale yellow in straw lace-exceedingly
fine-had it's brim covered and even over
reached by the chiffon ruffie of the same
pale-yellow that was gathered over; above
it lay putting Of the chiffon, and standing
about the crown was a shorter and fuller
ruffie, both edged with tiny yellow Valen-
ciennes; a jet star cleaned in the center
of the crown; and great purple fleur-de-
lis lay on each side the rim, protected on
the left by white aigrettes that stood stihy
UP, and by others that curled softly over.
A heliotrope hat had salmon puffings;
strangely enough, the combination was
good; it was toned by the heavy black
plumes rising at the back, but not so
by the small and closely set roses in Grim
\ L, oAr~