Waterbury evening Democrat., 1895-04-17

noon toilets have tho skirts not only stiffcned under tho lining, but have as we'll strips of whalebono sowod ill some of tho breadths whilo two strips oncir cle tho skirt at tho bottom Tho early importations also mako it appear that conservative women who havo been tlattcring themselves that they could save this country from am influx of tho much dreaded Crinolino will havo to gird themselves afrosh for tho fray.
 This tendency to width is acCCntuated by the sleeves expanding from tho elbow and tho hats, on which all tAu trimming is located at each side of tho brim. For this fashion Sarah Bcrnhardt Is partly responsible, as she Is for so many va garios in modes and manners. As tho Byzantine Gismonda, sho wears hugo clusters of orchids, which protrudo on either sido of her head behind tho cars. In like manner have her fanciful coun- try women elected to dress their heads. Tho hair is turned back from tho fore head in q thousand undulatiuns, which fall over tho cars and disappear in n tiny coil or bunch of curls at tho back, set rather low on tho head Tho hats accord with this arrangement of tho trcsscS.
 Tho conservative woman cannot find | it in her heart to commend this strange freak of fashion. For tiny faco rising | from a tall figure it might mako an eff ective frame, but the ordinary, diminu- tive woman appears moro ridiculous | than picturesque with these excrescences | to right and left of her
 Tho blouse style of bodice which promises to prevail in thin dresses for summer is pleasing ono and welcome Rliko to tall and short women. These | bodiccs are many of them, made on tight fittirs; lining and are trimmed 1 with lace and ribbons. That old time favorite valenciennes lace is revived in both white and cream shades and will be largely employed on all thin gowns. Tho sleeves of thin gowns are being made up without lining and arc render ed elaborate with laco insertions and | frillS. Blouse waists arc furthermore made drcssy with full bertha of lace l over tho shoulders, tho bertha in some | instances crossing tho waist i'll front l Bishop sleeves mo much used for blouse waists. For heavier materials, such as piquo, duck and linens, short coats with rcvorS, also Norfolk waists, will be worn with plain skirts
 In tho street tho smart ParisiGn still adhoreS to black costume, and this be- coming mode has been followed to some | extent ill New York, especially during | tho Lentcn season. Tailor gowns of black cloth arc very fashionable and, like those of mixed tweeds and light colors, are made with the short, tight fitting coat which is worn over blouses of lace or soft silk or chemisettes of white batiste, trimmed with rows of cream 'valenciennes lace.
 There are great many cloths to choose from for tailor made garments. Some of the newest are a thin make of melton, plain and of mixed coloring, in the dominant shades which will be worn this season-namely, brown, green, blue and gray. Several Sancy broche silks with floral designs are used with these for smart blouses and for Innings, which arc every day becoming more important. Jackets are lined with
 the same tone as the petticoat, as just now these arc made of richer materials and more elaborately trimmed than dresses. The new materials for tailor coats, to be worn with any and every gown, are heavy tweeds in which several colors are prettily blended, and the GOV ert cloths in all the pale shades of tar and gray. They are made quite short, with some fullness in the back. The front may be either single or double breasted an1 is finished with the usua revers.
 The bodices to some of the tailoi gowns are cut in a new way with ful
 front overhanging. These are finished round the waist with a silk banC matching the collars, generally made o
 some brocaded fancy silk. The sleeves
 are still full, and there is a good dea
 new in the cut of skirts, which ar'
 made plain, with horizontal seams
 Cheviots in various mixtures are em
 ployed for coats and skirts. Coat bodice
 are made with short basques plaited a the hack, the seams strapped, tn,
 basques being cut on the round, tho col
 lar turning down like a mans coat
 Some tailor dresses have the extrem
 full skirts, while others are more mod crate in size, but in either case they ar
 short enough to clear the floor. Fanc. vests of pique and bright colored vest
 ing are shown with the new tailo
 gowns and are very similar to thos
 worn last season. ALICE VARNuA-