The herald., 1894-06-01
A VISIT TO DAMASCUS
A TRAVELLER WRITES OF WHAT PIE
SAW IN TINS FAMOUS CITY.


Its Extensive and 1nfnrestfnx Bazaazss--T
Wonderful Walls cd Damascus and the
View Ono Tins Er0m Tbem-Tho aLoham
medan Women and Their Masks.
The bazaars OF Damascus arc quite
extensive and moro interesting than
those of Cairo, with which they are fire.
guently compared, because they are en-
tirely untouched by European influ-
ences. They arc generally covered, and
some Of them have lofty roofs In them
are found all the products Of the east.
Caravans go from hero to Bagdad and
beyond, and q great deal Of merchan-
disc is carried TO and fro. There are spe-
cial large. pretentious buildings with
numerous dones, in which wholesale
trade is carried ON. It was rainy day
when we first went through the bazaars,
and we appreciated the advantage of go
ing shopping under cover.
The largest bazaar is in ''the street
called Straight" Its great roof extend
for 2, 900 feet. with small shops ON each
side. It is wide enough for carriages.
By the way, this street is straight,
though Mark Twain made a reflection
Indicating that the expression in the
Bible (see Acts) was ironical. The con-
sui who represents the United States
government in Damascus is Syrian,
and that fact makes him a permanent
officer. He is not obliged TO turn over
his office to somebody else when new
administration comes into power.
He received us very politely and de-
tailed "kawass' "a sort of official mil
itary escort-to attend us while we re-
manned in the city. This is rather desir-
able, as it insures respectful treatment.
Without such an escort we might have
unlxind remarks thrown at us, though
we should not understand them The
''kawass'' could not talk English, but
another young man from the consul's
Office also went with us. He spoke Eng
ish and was an intelligeht and agree
able guide He took us TO see the inte-
riors of two very handsome houses, one
q Mohammedan' and the other jews.
We did not see the proprietor Of the
first, but the Jew took us into his libra
ry and showed us copies of the Jewish
Scriptures ON donble rolls AS the read
er proceeds he unrolls from one to the
other. We also visited an English mis-
sion school for girls, in which the pupils
had pretty and bright faces They are
mostly Greek Christians, but our ''ka-
wass, who is Mohammedan, seemed
to take great pleasure in pointing out
his daughter in one Of the classes.
OF the walls of Damascus only the
lower courses date from Roman times.
Above these courses is Arabian work,
and, still higher, Turkish. 1t is rather
unfavorable to strong emotions when
looking at the place where Paul was let
down to observe that this part of the
wall is Turkish, not more than 800
years old.
About the most satisfactory thing
did in Damascus was a ride to Y
northern suburbs, where from the 81
of hill we got fine view of the VIII
irrigated valley, with the city set
frame of verdpre. All outside Of
was brown and barren The domes a
minarets of the city make very pref
picture, in the center of which star
the citadel and the great mosque, white
was par tally destroyed by fire only las
year. Our guide pointed out to us the
caravan roads to Mecca and Palmyra,
extending across the great desert TO the
horizon. This view gave us by far the
best idea of Damascus and its surround
ings. Twenty miles away we caught the
CLEAN of a lake, into which the Barada
(the ALBANIA of Scriptures) pours its food.
Except in the spring it is rather mo-
rass than lake.
Our hotel at Damascus, the Hotel
Diamatri-Kara was formerly the palace
of wealthy pasta, and 1t contained in
teresting specimens of decorative work
of the first class. 1t is very well kept
far better than any hotel in Jerusalem.
In fact, the Jerusalem hotels are the
poorest we have encountered so far in
our travels. Our Damascus hotel was
built around central court, embellish-
ed by handsome fountain and orange
and lemon trees. Every window on the
street in Damascus, the streets being
narrow, is covered by wooden lattice.
You can look out through it, but you
cannot see into the room across the way.
1t is considered very improper to raise
this lattice You might see Moham-
medan woman, or she might see you,
which would make trouble. A very pc
ouliar effect is produced by figured
muslin which many Of the Mohamme-
dan women wear over their faces. It
makes them look like masqueraders
with maslzs You sec something that
looks like features, but it is not. A
roguish eye may be twinkling under the
gauzy material, but it is completely dis
guised 1t is said to be unsafe in this
fanatical community to show too much
curiosity about the faces Of the women.
Damascus women have reputation for
beauty. I regret to say that we are I'M
able to express any opinion ON the sub
ject. The uncovered faces we have seen
ought not to get their owners into
trouble. Cor Boston Herald.
Universal Suffrage.