The morning call., 1894-08-04
FOR THE TABLE.


There is sgu on a downtown restaurant-it
may pc common TO many-which reads, "Meals
like your mother cooked" ana rouses long
trains of recollectons, if not of the meals ones
mother cooked. at least of certain dishes which
have distinctive home flavor and association
This seldom liagers round joints OF beef or
Toasrs Of mutton, but clings To some more sim
pie eAlebeian preparation, like The homely one of
pork and potatoes. This dish 10 be at its best.
requires thin slices of fat pork and thin slices
ofraw potato, slightly sailed and peppered ana
cooked in an iron spider on top of The pork
First line the pan well with the pork and heap
II full of otatoes, as they will shrink very much
IN cooking. Cover and set it upon the back ar
the stove TO COOK slowly for fully half an hour
certainly until the potatoes are perfectly tender
ana seasoned throughout with The juices Of the
meat
There is another dish which calls into nlav
the ever useful frying-pan and the salted flesh
Of the pig TO do their part In the preparation of
certain steak cut from the upper part of the
round, which is nearly girded with fat i'm good
beef, and Is almost as much esteemed as ts a
pOrterhouSe or sirloin steak. This piece should
be.cut al least an inch and a half thick, and for
an average family should weigh three pounds.
Its cost is 10 cents per pound.
Heat the pan and lay The slices of pork in it
e.you flour the beef little on each side.
'E..Wlil require only pepper for seasoning as
Inc san OF the pork will be almost enough
5Ileni when the pan and It's contents are hot.
'IaY .Ihe beef in and brown each SIDE quickly.
1nen draw the pan TO the back OF the stove
cover closely and cook so slowly that the
Plees VIII not be dried out, and that ii may
NOT De necessary TO add any extra liquor.
: Serye very hot with its own gravy poured
about IT,
But above and beyond these more substan-
tla reminders OF ones childhood there are
memories which cling about certain sweets-a
rleq turnover, which will always suggest pic
plc- baskets; a particular kind OF doughnut
which made its appearance upon the breakfast
2 taOle sunday mornings accompanied by a fra
grant cup OF coffee and a particular kind of
seed cookie very thin and rather brown, ample
IN circumference and crossed aud TecroSsed
with lines made by drawing the proDgs of q
fork over It's surface.
These cookies were produced generally In the
evening from an apparently inexhaustlble
source IN a chimney corner of the sitting room,
and'from the same spot came forth on. rarer
occasions loaf Of sponge cake, not the dry
mich detested abric which is sometimes sold
by that name, but moist golden loaf, caked on
sides, top and bottom with a delicious sugary
crust, and which WAS served with a dainty
glass Of raspberry shrub. The turnover was
not very rich nor elaborate construction, but
rolling out the dough made for yeast powder
biscuit quite thin cutting in rounds almost as
lalge as a saucer, putting a tablespoonful of
dry Observation-Disclosures 1t was dried apple
sauce-in the center, wetting the edges with
egg, folding the paste over turnover fashion
and pinchlOg the sides we'll together. These
must be fried as doughnuts are, only requiring
rather longer time. as the sauce in the middle
has tendency TO make tnat part seem under
done, but II rightly cooked they will be crisp
and brown and beloved by children.
The dOughnut mentioned is an unsweetened
variety that is delicious served as 1t is intended
10 be, with cup of coffee. 1t is made by rub
bing one tabesp Oonful OF LARD with one pint of
-four which has previously been sifIed with one
teaspoonful OF yeast powder and half tea
spoonful of salt, mixing with milk till soft
enough to handle without adding more -four.
Then take piece the size Of an egg, roll IL with
the hands on the board till it is about six inches
long, then double the strip in the middle and
twist the ends about each other once or twice,
fry and serve hot. These we're som etlmes
served as a supper dish accompanied by cream
sauce like that made for milk toast.
The cookies involved rather more trouble
but their staying qualities were better. For
them rub one cup of butter with two and half
cups of -four TO a cream, tightening the process
by slightly warming The butter. To this add
half cup Of milk. in which one teaspOOnful of
stfted soda has been dissolved. Add also a
tablespoonful Of caraw ay seeds, unless those
articles are held in adherence, in which case
add ginger In its place, then flour enough to
make stiff batter; roll very thin. but with as
little flour on the board as possible, cut round
and place in butteTed pans a good distance
apart. Before put ing them in the pans their
surface must be marked as directed with the
back Of fork, which process will make the
cakes still thinner, and they must be baked, in a
rather quick oven to a gold n brown, turning
the pan once or twice that the cakes may bake