The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-12-23
Mo D Mfassn M'N(

New York, Dec. 22-It was positively
necessary for women to do something in
order 10 maintain her identity. What with
the msnnish woman. the new woman. the
advanced woman, the blue stocking. the
IN de steele. and all the others. she wasn't
quite sure OF where she stood. Then the
young man Of the day made il even worse.
She was accused of masculinity in attire,
with her tailor skirt and her jacket and
shirt front, and heavy boots and gloves.
He threatened to get delightfully."- feminine;
and he still leans that way. He wears a
long. graceful overcoat Of pale tan a crush
felt hat that would do equally wen for a
girl, kid gloves of pale color fine enough
TO grace a woman's soft hand a more
festive buttonhole bouquet than she would
carry. His locks are carefully curled his
eyebrows and lashes are long and darkly
shaded, his voice is soft and tender, his
touch dainty and graceful. and he steps
lightly in his patent leather ties of razor
tip.
No wonder the poor new woman felt
that her reputation was at stake. This
pretty new creature was fast invading her
domain. After a while she would be TAX
ing care ofhim-for how could he soil his
pretty well-kept fingers with degrading
toll?
The new woman looked the situation
fairly and squarely in the face She was
not one to evade the issue. She saw
plainly that heroic measures were required
All OF her advancement had not robbed
her of her inventiveness. Those heroic
measures took rapid shape in her clever
brain. Very soon they took shape in sub
stantial fashion also
The result was all that one could ask.
No one has accused woman since the idea
has shaped itself into those huge balloons
that spread each side Of the feminine YER
zebra Of having any sensible proclivities.
She is advanced, then, all agree to that
beyond the hope of redemption. She is
once more relegated to the old domain,
and once more enjoys those delightful
privileges that have belonged to the sex
from time immemorial The foolishness
of the sleeve has done it all; and that what
man has deemed foolishness and a
stumbling-block has become the power
unto salvation of the erstwhile degenerat-
ing sex. She can once more look delight
cape or coat over those pillows of chiffon
that rise each side of her. How tender it
makes the man. when he flies TO her res
cue and adjusts the pretty puffs beneath
the cruel jacket sleeves that threaten TO
crush those lovely evidences of all that
femininity implies. Now she feels quite
free 10 be wilful, erratic, eXtravagant,
pettsh, and all the rest. She is hurrying
the new woman in sleeve puffs.
"Why, mamma. what a funny LADY,
you amt made like that girl. are you?
] looked where the child had pointed then
back TO the woman at his side. The lad
was right. They were OF different species.
The one was fashionable. shortbodiced,
wide-shouldered and pulled. much wider,
in fact, than she was long, above the
waist line. The other poor creature, had
waist that care and want had served TO
elongate and narrow. She seemed twice
as long as the puffy creature that swept
past partially because the old skirt hung
lank and loose about her hips, and the
sleeves of the tight coat belonged TO the
fashions Of a decade ago.
In even more startling contrast would
have been the pair of bodices / had stared
at the evening before. Even fashion
writer is occasionally moved, and the
wonderful breadth of those chiffon bod
ices impressed me powerfully. They were
very shOrt-the creatures themselves We're
short of waist-line-and very wide. No,
very wide doesn't express it at all They
were wider than the bodice between the
puffs. What is more each was made
Of minute, dainty little puffs and perches
of the babyish chiffon. one bodice was
white, one lovely pale yellow. Let me
describe them
The pure white was accordian-plaited--
the bodice portion of it falling in slightly
bloused effect. Down its front ran three
delicate, gauzy passementerie vines in
pale green and rose. over each shoulder
was spread a flounce of fine Fedora lace,
which finished each side of the bodice
in an transformations jabot that stopped
IN point at the belt of delicate lettuce
green velvet; tightly twisted al the base
of the high crush chiffon collar was an
other roll of velvet finished with a bow
The mate of this fascinating little affair
was quite as charming. 1t was chiffon
also, of a pretty oorn-shade and gath
cred from the neck to the high-belt line
over the shoulders fell deep collar of
very thin applique lace in its pale tan
tint held in place by deep but very slender
points of jet, set about the collar The
stock collar was a thing of beauty fol-
lowing the fashion of the white one be-
fore it. 1t was very full, also, and the
yellow was softened by a twist of apricot
velvet that lay between it and the let
points, making the effect most brilliant
The waist as encircled with an apricot
tciNs III TWO UNITS IllduG IN TOUR sections.
with the tints alternating; and loops of
both shades joining the sections. These
sleeve puffs were quite as broad and as
short as the others, stopping above the
elbow.
new blouse that is in great favor
Just now has trimming all of loops. In
itself loose gathers constitute the bodice.
But all about the top of the round decol-
lette corsage are laid fiat loops
OF contrasting vevet-black on
the heliorope, pink and tur-
quoise shades, deep purple on the corn
varieties The short sleeve .puffs are deco
rated in similar fashion, except that the
loops stand out instead of lying down.
A graceful sash is tied at the back III
short loops, and spreads out over the
short, full dancing skirt. This is an ex-
cellent bodice for the young debutante
Two other suitable ones are pictured
One with the single fchu effect about
the neck, formed by the lace that points
in over the double sleeve puffs and
the simple gathered bodice. Broad rib
bons that start beneath each sleeve cul-
inmate in bow at the point of the V.
The other is more elaborate Its gath
cred yoke of turquoise mousseline is Dor
dered by black velvet which also forms
the lower portion of the bodice, with the
exception of a gathering of the mousse