The morning call., 1894-03-11
STYLES FOR MEN.
What Is Fashionable for
the Sterner Sex.
To Be in the Swim One Must Be Cor
rectIy and Artistically Dressed.
Neckwear Notes.

Never before in the history of the world
was there time when 1t could be said as
truly as 1t can be said now that. though
man may be correctly and artistically
dressed, he may at the same time be
dressed unfashionably. but that he cannot
be fashionably dressed unless he is also
dressed correctly and artstically, says the
Sartorial Art Journal of New York.
The double breasted frock and the three
button cutaway suit, the trousers of which
are interchangeable, are the only correct
costumes for day dress. and the materials
used for the coat and vest are the same for
both and include unfinished worsteds.
worsteds, vicunas and cheviots. The
double-breasted frock will be but slightly
different in style during the incoming sea
son from what Ii was last fall IL the differ
ence is measured by inches. but in effect
the difference will be marked. and the
coat will be much improved by 1t. The
principal changes are shorter waist.
longer collar and fuller skirts. The lapels
will be evenly spaced for five holes and
will turn to the third or roll free when the
fronts are thrown open, and they will be
silk faced to the buttonhOles.
The vest may be single or double
breasted, whether made from the same
material as the coat or Of fancy vestlng.
but the siDgle-breasted vest will be much
more worn than the other, and fancy vest
ings promise TO be in less demand than
for many seasons.
The trousers will be of medium widths,
but with decided taper in the legs from
the seat down. Average widths will be 10
inches at the knee and II at the bottom.
The bottom Will have a slight spring and
the side seams will be finished with mar
row welt. The materials that will be
used are worsteds in fine and moderately
fin ctrin nd a
fabrics in neat designs.
For half dress-a very indefinite term
that includes dress for genteel business
purpOses-there is allowed more latitude
In the matter of fabric. and the trousers
thereof may be more pronounced OF pat
tern. The suit may, for instance. be
composition Of gray or Of gray with fancy
trousers, or or three different materials. or
of any quiet, genteel mixture. even to
very delicate striped effect.
Double breasted frock suits are not in
Guided among business suits. and are as
much out of place at the desk or counter
or anywhere that work Is done as the
swalow-tail is at midday feast on any
one but waiter or servant But the cut
away suit may properly be worn for busi-
ness, whether it is OF The same material
| or general stye as already described or of
| fancy material. striped. checked or plaided
and with side flaps, and 1T may be three
or one or. for very tall. slim man, even
four-buttoner. This suit for business
purposes, will be popular in rough-1nished
worsteds, striped. checked and mixed
cheviots. serges and homespuns.
The evening dress coat, like all other
| frOcks, will be shorter in the waist than
| heretofore. The skirts will cling close to
| the hips and will be tapered TO bottom
width of anywhere from just an apology
! for nothing to four inches. The peaked
| lapel and the shawl-roll style will come
pretty near sharing equally in popular
favor, but the former Will probably be the
favorite.
The tendency which has been observa-
BILE during the last few months both In
male and female fashions to revert to the
styles OF days gone by has finally asserted
1 itself IN TIE realm of mems furnishings,
and we are fOrcibly reminded of the DAYS
Of the duckiDg-stool and the pillory by the
| latest fashion in mems neckwear, which
seems to have been taken up with good
deal of eagernesS by the leading haber-
dashers of the city. If we are to believe
the signs of the times as depicted in the
show windows and listen to the voice of
| the charmers inside, all of us who claim
| to dress fashion ably will for some time to
| come be compelled to pass a considerable
! portion OF each tweDty-fOur hours in the
stocks-or to speak with absolute correct
| ness-in q stock.
These latest additions to the furnishe 8
list are, Of course, great Improvements Oh
! the yards upon yards of black silk which
encircled the neck of the First Gentleman
| iD Europe, Beau Brummel and their COM
| peers, but they are stocks, withal, and as
| such are inseparable from a certain amount
of stiffness nos wholly disconnected from
dread of apoplexy In the minds of those
accustomed to the warm days of our later
| spIing months.