The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-06-19

teresting to learn what great folks eat
what their wives and buffers buy at the
market for their tables, the sums they
spend for provisions, etc.
The finest kitchen in Washington is
that of Sir Julian Pauncefote, the Brit
ish ambassador A pretty sight it is-so
clean and orderly, with big double ranges.
scores of bright copper utensils and molds
by hundreds for boned meats, jellies, ice
creams and custardsi A big establish
ment like this, when dinner or recep-
ton is to be given, does not have to buy
supplies from a caterer. The pastry cook
ing. candy making and preparing of orna-
mental table pieces are all done in the
house.
The British embassy spends umnre
money for mere living than any other
legation here. Sir Julian can afford it,
inasmuch as his government gives him an
allowance of $50, 900 year for entertain
ing and incidentals He has head cook
with two assistants. The chef is Ger
man woman, who speaks French and
English also She does the marketing
Nearly every Sunday evening during the
winter Ambassador Pauncefote and his
wife give dinner. Few entertainments
at the capital are so select and exclusive.
THE MOST EXPENSIVE HOUSEHOLD.
The most expensive household in Wash
ington is that of Senator Brice. who occu-
pies the old Corcoran residence. He has
French cook, and probably spends not
less than 81 900 year for food alone HIS
chef often buys as much as $40 worth of
vegetables and fruits in morning at the
market, or perhaps he will purchase $50
worth of imported grapes at once. The
Brices give dinners night after night in
the season, at which from thirty to 100
guests sit down.
The hospitality of the rich Illinois con
gresham, Mr.. Hit, is on similar scale.
His establishment is probably the most
costly here, except Brices. AS is
usual also at the Brices' dinners at the
Hits are commonly served on many
tables. Perhaps there will be as many as
twenty tables scattered about the dining
room, drawing room and hall, with half
a dozen guests at each. This plan is quite
fashionable. nowadays, but conservative
persons declare that the people who do
not happen to find themselves at the
same tables with the master or mistress
of the mansion are being entertained not
by them, but by the servants. In short
the dinner. however fine, is too much on
the hotel style.
Various minor objections are urged
against this method. 1t is much more ex-
pensive, requiring score of walters for
as many tables. This is of no conse-
quence TO millionaires, of course. But it
is fact that the walters, having entire
charge of the entertaining, exercise fa-
voritism that is pleasing to some and
quite displeasing to others. For exam
pie, one table will get three bottles of
champagne while another obtains only
one bottle.
Many diners-out say that the best din
ners in Washington are given by the mil
1ior, i,-aA ,.xre ~ y I 90
his entertainments there is never more
than one table. His new million-dollar
palace on Dupont circle is on such scale
that a repast of 200 covers may be served
in the large music room. The marketing
for the establishment is done by an Eng
lish butler, who has been with the fam
lily for many years. He is remarkable
man, in his way and is a great favorite
with society people here.
The kitchen of the new Letter mansion
is on scale for hotel. It's floor is of
polished oak, and the walls are tiled to
hight of six feet. There are ventilators
and fans TO carry out the odors of cooking.
Connected with the nine-foot range are
charcoal broilers. The scullery like that
of the British legation is Independent ana
apart The establishment employs four
men in the stable, four men in the house,
three ladies' maids, three women in the
kitchen, two women in the laundry, and
two house maids-in all. eighteen per-
sons This is not an extraordinary num-
Der of servants. Senator Brice has more,
and Levi P. Morton had a greate numb
when he lived in Washington.
MARKETING DONE BY BUTLERs.
The marketing for the great houses in
Washington is done by the buffers and
cooks. They are shrewd buyers, and,
while they get the best to be had, they
pay less for it than ordinary folks do.
The major domo of a millionaires estab-
lishment was giving some hints TO the
writer Yesterday. One of them worth
noting by any housewife, related to beef
He said: Buy whole loin at once. The
butcher will cut it down to about twenty
pounds You can then cut out the fllet,
which in that way costs you only about
twenty cents pound, instead of 81 a
pound. The balance you can chop up into
steaks and roasts''
The food of servants in private palace
OF the sort described costs enormously.
AT the British legation the cook, accord
4 ing TO the English plan, receives an
allowance of 20 cents day per head for
feeding the domestics. In mansion run
q on such scale the quantity of edibles
3 consumed is astonishing. One small item
4 OF the weekly supplies of Levi p. Nor
4 Ions house on Scott circle was fifty dozen
s. eggs the year around. At single recep.
ID ton given by the Letters last winter
forty-nine and half gallons of ice cream
h were furnished.
81 The Russian legation is the most expeu
slve dlplomatic residence in Washington,
81 PROBABLY with the exception of the British
embassy. Its cook, though woman, is
unsurpassed. She is an Austrian The
best women cooks in the world are Aus
ulans, it is said. The kitchen is model
ne German legation has German man
HI COOK. He is an all-rouud expert is his
BUSINESS, being pastry maker and con-
lectoner. The French legation employs
IS. d trench woman cook.
An expensive household, run in that
4 s.yle of quiet elegance which costs so
much, is Senator Cameron's, on Lafay-
cue square. The Camerons are famous
Tor sunday night dinners. Sunday morn
ING breakfasts are Senator Wolcott's spe-
Cialty in entertaining Senator Mcmillan
en'ertains good deal he is a great epi-
Cure' Mrs. Bonaparte is in mourning
now Tor her husband. She has been ac-
.ustomed to entertain lavishly. About
lwenty servants are required to keep her
adjustment in order. H." .ench man
'ooK does the marketing
OTHERS WHO GO TO MARKET.
senator Henderson goes to market him
sel' occasionally. So, likewise. does the
much scandalized Col. W. G. p. Breckin-
uge, with basket on bis arm. The