The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-09-22
SOME FAMOUS FRENCH COOKS
O-e OF Theu 4. said 20 Have IN Inco.e ef
$4,000 n Year.

Prom the Philadelphia Times.
The French have always been proud Of their
single meal served up as many as 800 diferent
dishes. all of which were the creations OF his
brings out a new dish Of his own each season.
But this is no longer common. There are. signs
on the reputation of the past. Still there are
great names and successes to recommend It.
Gsmbetta, who dearly loved good living, made
This was the famous. Trompette. lie. had been
the cook of the Due de Noailles,. hut the republi-
of aristocracy by offering him a salary Of 81, 400
q year. This was something enormous for France.
1t must be membe however, that the COM
mission Of one. cent out of every twenty which
the French cooks collect from tradesmen, along
with the remnants and savings and pickings and
other beneices, amount TO many times over the
original salary. In the large Partisan clubs,
t Thaffrg annual nhs ain ins ST1si il sr esti hoW sd' at r. from Ds ss9gTtoHoSS;
TO $4,000 a year. Gambetta, who had all his
money from politics, was open handed. When
handsome fortune to a villa which he had bought
down in Bcrri. There he rested from his. labors
been an accomplished cook. Then he died.
This was only last autumn, when the Russians
where. To their surprise all the. French papers
declared that with TrOmpettct the glorious ira
great cooks rtspG no more GS%SeET This nsI is d doubtless i ss
exaggeratiNa, although there are signs that the
Frg rsngE; s lad careless are e s,sr spi ri % Of oo The age sb has
was so long a fine art in France. Abroad the re-
nown of the French cook Is as great az ever.
There are still famous cooks in Paris. The
the great, public establishments, Where their
place has been taken 10y %slovenly workmen. who
have. not. the old conscientious art. Aurelien
SchOll.. who was the chrohicler Of the boulevard
in It's glory. says that To dine well at a restau-
rant nowadays you must take a train to Brus-
sells. He attributes the decadence to the new
have worked their way up from being mere
walters, and are In far too great a hurry to
make their fortunes. IL Is ais said that the
are too often fit only to poison the guests. A
parvenu politician has neither the. time nor the
taste To keep that watch over his kitchen TO
which the thoroughbreds of the old regime used
TO be trained.
Is an exception to this rule under the. republic.
Fieuret. the cook whom he had installed in the
Foreign Affairs, and also when he was President
OF the Chamber Of Deputies. lie Is a man that
,he COCK sSSEe OF the hi pnc de- b Doe d AZ IL I'y Who T has
never served In a less family than a baron's, or
with Bouzon, who is now with the Duchess OF
pire with Prince Orloff. Thus another barrier
is removed between the Faubourg Saint Ger
The Russians themselves could appeal to the
splendid example OF their Cars kdmefourier.
OF all the imperial kitchens, and he has the
right to wear a sword. 1t Is not the first time,
as he fought on the French side ali through the
war Of 1870. When Germany finally took pos
session OF his native Alsace, he went to seek his
fortune in Russia rather. than dwell at home
W AhA hA' h'NAN h'AH ava - o'Ai ~ eAAN ~
nous, and his dishes may have helped on the
Franco-Russian alliance. Alexander III. has
exempte him from the law which requires that
the imperial cooks shall at least be naturalized
Russians, aud he has even extended this privi-
le0e 10 the numerous French under-cooks whom
the chef has In hia employ.
NJ. krantZ, whose French citizenship Is thus
officially recognized along with his cookery, is q
great man at court. lie has under his orders
four furnishing officers with $50 lackeys and
apprentice boys, besides his own special corps OF
two assistant chefs. with AZ professional aids. 20
apprentices. 81 walters. and two bakers and two
cOnfectioners in chief, with their special assist
ants to the number Of 20. He has five secreta-
ries for correspondence, bills, menus, and the
rest. On the days Of high emo as many as
200 persons are under his The
grandees of the court remark that this French
cook has a clear revenue OF $50, 900 a year.
The chief cook and the head pastryman OF
Queen Victoria are French. and so is the chef of
the Prince Of Wales. Another who served his
under jules Couffe of the Paris
Jockey Club. has been successfully cook to the
Kings of sweden and Roumania. 10 the banker
Rothschild, aud latterly %, that German Prince
Of Bat'enberg who married a granddaughte- OF
Queen Victoria, IL Is even whispered In Berlin
that the COnqueror has capitulated and Kaiser
eats according To the d~ictaticn Of q
French chef. The $4,000 French cook of the
American Railway King Vanderbilt Is not for-
In Paris. He has opened a restaurant
across the way from the Opera Comique, which
they are now rebuilding at the old site where
the fire took place in 1887.