The sun., 1894-10-28
nv 4 CHINESE REsrA URANT
One .. Nva-hi.rtor q. watch All the Disk
IS Are In Disguise.

IS Are In Disguise.
From the Washington Post.
Since the arrival Of Moy Sam In town things
have changed. He has taken one Of tho houses on
the south side Of the avenue. between Third and
Four -and-a half streets, and here on the second
floor he has opened a regular first-class Chinese
restaurant, such ns one can find In the Chinese
quarter Of any Of the large Western cities-Den-
yer, Portland. or San Francisco. This Is pri-
marlly intended for the benefit OF the Chinese
residents OF the city. and here the homesick
subjects OF the Sunset Kingdom may come
and reRale themselves with all of their
most fondly remembered homo dishes
smoked oysters, dried ducks feet, birds
nest soup, and preserved, candled. and con-
served things galore, for the Chinese are master
hands at the art of preserving. and they can
citron 80 that IL will keep for n hundred years,
and cook up fresh aud Inviting at the end OF
But though the main room OF the restaurant
10 for the Chinese residents, where they may
the latest news OF the Corran situation, there
are private rooms where 2 party OF Amerloens
point 10 see thai his visitors have q coed time
and have a chance to test all the products OF his
Chinese chef. The restaurant may be said to be
When q visitor takes his seat the, straw:sllp-
pered waiter flaps into the room and sets down
going back for more till he Is stopped. bringing
something different each time. The visitor
,sas, Sns I. he wsa and when ,Ss meal eyer
has been done to the various dishee, and charges
accordingly. One can get as much a. he wants
lay OF half a dollar would stall even q profss-
sional dner-out m
with his meal. but for purposes OF utility they
are NIL. The slender round pieces Of snow-white
s.ly ns~ long sos
make capital knitting needles but to invcsti-
gate the inside Of a Chinese doughnut with
is like attempting TO pick q combination look
With With hair hhairpin nor or p scoop up" drop Of mercury
The best way is to submit to using q plain
American knife and fork, which comes on de-
man msnd wihSS extra Shsrge but there is smile
Celestial when he looks at the discarded ivories
resting on the far side Of your plate,
ing. And that Is where the native OF tea land
gives the Americans pointer. A thin porcelain
brought to each person. and in IL is put the tea q
leaves, the sort OF tea that sells for Is q pound
and which never rs sess .hs inside of an AmsTicsn
which Just fits inside the rim and acts as strain:
the tyro into the art OF pouring out the tea
gers, or spiline IL on the table cloth. There is
no profanation OF that tea with milk or sugar,
apS no 9Ss a eass iSs p
does not hold more than a good sized thfmble-
full, and with 4 a little china caraffe, with .
that is held in place with the forsangsr while
the beverage is poured out. This is for - onga
tS s " siS sos: wS sseS
Then comes the dishes in dissuise. The hrst
luncheon, is ITEM sum-" q curious little dump
ling about an inch and a half in diameter,
OF rice -four, and on top Is traced delicate fig
ure in dochineal or some other like coloring
ON boiled ham. The dumpiing II hollow. and
inside Is stuffed with an utterly unfathomable
duck, and ten q 'leyen" other .hinSs, as Moy
explains E to make T. taste good. With the
aH%RHss COLOR come cup. e Of 'hfSS Sssy p.s sr
next q a different grade. Of dumping, made OF
even more varied mixture OF grated meats and
Vegetables, prominent among which 10 Chinese
Of pair OF canyas-backs that are "just right"
This Is shaped like half-tied obacco pouch,
and is known In the ysrnsCalar as gsg tnr
ss Sos's 81. this. so%ss % Sa disSSi.sa, nIT Isi
IN the form OF round dumping OF dry boiled
giyphios, and Allied inside with q sweet pre-
served mixture of ground nuts and ali che
: The meal Is wound up with Chinese dough-
nuts with an unspellable name, but looking not
unlike brown tennis balls. and filled with an-
almost too sweet for an American palate 10
stand. The other features OF the dessert are
,prnk led thickly with dried Tomato seeds, con.
served cItron, clear almost as amber. and tast-
ng like y fresh ,s . % pulled @ fruit: :, ,o,o
neal. And the cost is thirty cents ~S
The regular dinner Is heavier, and contains |
,mOked oysters, all OF which are paid for on the
European plan.