Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1894-02-17
HOME DRESSMAKING.
a FEW SIMPLE RULES FOR SECURING
4 GOOD SIT.

ne Most Dineult Seams Of An 70 Bsss~.
1fsishiax - waist asd smoothing the
ssans-1.tting Bones In the waist-Ths
xsessslty Tor Care.
ic'D'r'sh1 '''s p a t;oa'' Prs- A.'s'.-
To insure perfect It : lining ought to
be tried ON again before Il Is basted to the
outside, the s&ams being left in the second
timefand the whole should fit like wax.
After this process It can be bnsted upon the
eufside with rather long stitches.
To cut the Cutdde lay Une side OF the lin
ing on the double fold and haste it all
around lightly, but firmly, and then cut 1t
exactly the same size as the lining. with n
inch margin to turn in the front for but
tons and buttonholes, and then rip it loose
70 haste the lining in permanently.
The lines Of basting down the middle at
the waist line are intended to draw the lin.
ing q half an inch fuller there than the out
side. Where the bust il unusually fall a
v shaped notch in the lining tapering well
A ont toward the arm size will be Of great
benefit to ths general form, but the outside
must DO pulled up and down SO that it does
not show. Sometimes v II also taken
under the arm. These things must be done
81, the Judgment OF the dressmaker. The
diagram will show how the fullness Is to be
adjusted. It is really more ''fullness" than
gathers and is intended to cause the out
Side to draw little right there at the wis:
line where it is SO apt to wrinkle, and thus
the outside remains smooth and firm.
When the gathering il done, there should
be bastiflg down through that part di-
rcctly in the center of each piece, and when
that is done the hastings around each are
ret in in n sort of overland stitch that
makes zi9zag, and this makes the firmest
basting. The lining should be held inside.
The hastings being now sewed around ev-
ery edge and seam, the different parts can
be basted together. and II it is feasible the
waist can be tried on again. When the
seams are basted together, they should al
ways start from the top, and when they are
done they can be stitched up on the ma
chine, great care being taken to sew them
ON the outside ofthe hastings, as they allow
q slack of about two inches.
aa After the waist is fitted the darts are to
be cut out, allowing from half to three
quarters of mn inch seam, according to the
quality OF the goods. These seams are
sgwed, beginning from a tapering point, and
I then they ~ laid apart and pressed fiat,
being neatly trimmed and bound or over
cast and bone castings are run on.
The front side pieces are held little full
under the arm, and If the bust is very full a
few gathers can be set in with benefit at
the top of this piece.
Tho top of the under arm and side back
pieces are apt toget stretched, which makes
n very unpleasant and inartistic bunch that
nothing can correct. To prevent this run
basting thread with small stitches close
to the upper edge where five KS are
marked. The center back pieces must be
basted together. holding them perfectly
straight and plain. 1t is a good plan to
stick few pins at intervals to keep them
from slipping or stretching The side back
seams are the most difficult of all to haste,
and few of the best dressmakers even get
them exact. The following rules will in
sire success:
/. Basic the right side first, starting at
the top, holding back opposite the five
KS easy, but not full, being careful not
to stretch the seam at this point, as it is
bias. Always hold the back next to you. 2.
The back Just above the waist line should
be held little full on the side-back at the
same position. Before basting the left side
fasten the seams together with pins two
inches apart, holding the back toward you
and commencing to pin from the top. Tcke
particular care to hold the back and side
pieces at the upper marked waist line ex-
actly rs you did on the right side; then
haste up the seam, beginning at the bottom