Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-08-25

~ When there is curb
stone 1t may be two
VFll inches high or two
j VI feet hiSh-that de-
ponds on the hurry and fatigue of the pedes-
TRAN. These notes begin from nice slid
ing curbstone-its especial locale close to
Piazza Colonna'-where ankles are deity
turned and toes sharply knocked If their
owners essay to walk by faith, and not by
sight.
The queen! The queen is coming." These
words hurry along from lip to lip on that
lively avenue. IL Corso. La regina! La
regina vlener'-an unwonted animation is
visible among the careless promenaders, and
all eyes are directed down the long line of
carriages to a bright red spot in the dis
lance, which 1 soon perceive to be made by
the uniforms Of the royal footmen. AS the
equipage approaches all promenaders halt
and range themselves on the sidewalks for
better view, thus making an informal
Gordon for the royal party, which. advanc-
ing in this mode, between unendinG lines OF
subjects. has one continual march of tri-
umph. Soon the queen arrives. She is ac-
companied by one of her dame di corte"
(maids of honor They are seated in a jet
black calashe drawn by two splendid bays
high up. in dashing uniforms of cardinal
red, form rich and brilliant background to
the dark elegance Of carriage and occu-
pants. From the first glimpse of her
majesty until the last look in the distance 1
see her constantly bowling to right ana 70
LETT in recognition OF the uncovered ana in
Ginning heads OF the popuiace. The queen is
dressed in dark maroon silk, with blact: lace
sleeves and ornaments. ON her be.utifuI
head rests stylish little bonnet, sur
mounted by one short, dense ostrich plume
IhouSh continually nodding her head, the
queen is all the while conversing with her
and favorite lady OF the court
the Marchioness Vlllamarini
once the royal corteSe has passed II Corso
reassumes its normal aspect except for a
more vivaciouS chatter of voices, mingled
with ordinations of interest and adrltra-
ton, occasioned by the queens appearance.
Then the breakfast Hour.
1t Is now past room and many of the cti.
zens are already seated at the breakfast
table, where the rest will also be by 30,
at which hour the Corso will be SO deserted
that car non ball might be shot from one
end to the other without meeting a soul
Breakfast at 1 O'Clock! This reminds me
of the customs of certain society bellies at
home. The Romans of today, however, are
far from lazy about rising in the morning;
many are on their feet at O'clock though
the usual time Is an hour or so later. At
ter the morning toilet all partake of either
cafe nero black coffee, or coffee and cream
in our style. with one or two Vienna rolls
This light repast is all that is taken until
"Colazione"-or the breakfast before re-
ferred to-occurring a little after midday
This is not heavy meal, resembling great
ly our American breakfast. 1t is generally
begun with a light dish OF eggs, followed by
either steak, chops, or one of the many
Italian stewS, seasoned with herbs and
wine. A plate of salad or vegetables COM
DlQtRS Of
The peculiar Roman climate is said to re-
qure more abundant individual use of wine
than any other point of Italy. 1t Is not
considered healthful between meals unless
by some solid food, though but
cracker. At "Colazione' 4 pint of wine
Is moderate portion for one person; the
ladies' take much less than gentlemen usu-
ally.
wine from the Roman castles" is the
sign seen at almost every tavern 1t has
been my good fortune to have really tasted
these celebrated vintages, but 1t Is nearly
impossible to buy them pure in Rome. In
ract, the citizens themselves acknowledge
their Inability to direct one to a place wher,
the wine Is not fixed" The only resource
Is to take trip to these castle villages
and there quaff the celestial beverage in
It's virgin purity. The breakfast is termi-
mated by cheese and fruit, the last thing is
the fruit, just opposite to the American
custom. After breakfast cafe nero is served.
Slipping leisurely the coffee one finds that
eAi hOoA hdS PetSScu since Slttlng down
at the table.
Roman business Men.
To an American this slipping away of the
time Is new experience Add to II the ef
feet of light converse ton, good humor and
absolute freedom from care and it becomes
diff1cult to realize that one is not at a sum-
II er resort or with an excursion party, in
stead OF in the midst of a great CITY, The
Italian leaves his business when he goes
away from the Office. Once out of the door
he Is Ike child, intent on noticing every
nttie event or the street, and with an ever
active eye for passers-by To the Roman
business man the morning is counted as
the best p lrt of the day for Notwithstanding
dealers In Jewelry or souvenir goods and all
tnose whose trade depends on tourists and
visitors. Some time between and pm
the Roman business man returns to his Of
flee, where business may keep him engaged
until or O'Clock. Then he drops all work
for good" and sallies forth with one or
more boon companions for the evening
stroll on the Corso.
The Romans are extremely sociable and
rarely spend any length of time alone
Tney walk and talk In twos and threes on
ii Corso or the Via Nazionale until or o
o clock dinner time). During this prom
enade large proportion of Romes ''signorS
di moda" Qadies of fashion, may be seen,
when in Rome, generally drives out toward
evening.
The ClnnEOr of the Bells.
Rome is the city Of churches and natur-
ally of church bells. 1 had been SO distract
ed by other things that for a long time the
din escaping from the myriads Of belfries
remained unnoticed. Walking along care
lessly one day suddenly felt an indescriba-
BILE sense of inquietude. almost alarm 1t
was unaccountable and made me appre-
hepsve Of some strange nerve affection.
The air seen ed heavy and the sky to
darken when thought heard low rum
BILE as of distant thunder. With soul and
ears attent 1 listened. Soon there came
another deep rolling sound, reverberating
afar of as from the bowels of the earth.
In doubt whether 1t real or only in
my brain, / accosted a passerby, who said
why, that Is the great bell of st. Peters
which rings only for the death of the pope
or cardinal and for one or two great
events of the church."
My heart now beat freely and I realized
that the painful agitation had been caused
by the unconscious hearing of that pene-
trating knell. Since then I've been more
observing and hear bells everywhere. Bells
from churches and chapels, convent bells
yes pers, chimes; strange peals and clangs
in most unexpected moments, at whose
sound long lines of priests suddenly file out
of some cavernous monastery, or pale-faced
nuns In their lonely cells bend down over
their prisons.
The number OF handsome women Is truly
n G n n lie go Ill