New-York tribune., 1894-04-22

IT RETURNS. AND IS MORE SEVERE
THAN EVER.

THAN EVER.
The long war waged by French dressmakers
against English tailor styles seems to have broken
out afresh At one time the taiors appeared 10 be
on the eve of adopting French fashions. but they
were so unsuccessful in this attempt and their
elaborate gowns were such burlesques-so stiT
where they ought to have been yielding. so lacking
IN all the grace and witchery OF the French art
that they were compelled perforce to abandon the
field. Now they have returned to their own legiti-
mate province. and the new tailor STYLES are more
severe than any that have appeared for several
years.
People Of good taste are beginning to realize
that cloth street gown elaborateY trimmed and
rufled is as Of place hounced riding habit
Both must he severely plain 10 be smart and
"chic" and should owe their chief elegance to the
perfection OF their 1T and the fine quality OF their
material. Elaborate garniture only makes them
dowdy.
The new tailor gowns are almost Invariably ac-
compan.el by walstcOat which IS usually cut quite
high 70 displav a shirt bosom and mannish bow. or
/ four-in-hand tie Tho advent OF the waistcoat Is
thing TO be noted II is no LONGER altoEe'hei an
/ AFFAIR Of brocade bat a stin. uncompromshs
walstcoat made OF some stiff material IKE piqne'
duck or horse cloth. Sometimes this waistcoat has
/ ,t,a .g,crovahle" reyers turned back 10 reach
heyond the seams Of the sleeve and partly covering
the wide revers Of the coat. But usually IL IS
single breasted garment. fastened with small pN'-
TONS and Simply no,ched at the top without rcvers
garment Ike mans. It may be inserted IN
front when # Is often OF plain black satin. unre-
ueved by flower or hrocade. Ike the black satin
/ ,,,is,coa, Of the man Of ia aAiion IN our grand
/ fathers times.
Coats of various kinds are made 10y fashionable
,oilors The most elegant severe In all thelr
lines The half-long coat OF last season IS entirely
T SUPERSEDED by a medium length or very snort
coat which merely covers the hips The cu'a"AS
is a fashionable model l. Is made Ike sen'le-
mans cu:away coat. but with seam on '"e
hing The revcrs is considerably smaller thhh
~ ,.,d. r,rac,oire revers II Is fastened by three
small buttons. set rather near together on the DUST
whence the coat slopes. displaying large por''on
OF the vastcoat and all the front part o 'he Sh''
The back part OF coat has pl'ats. lappeH h"a'p
/ like a mans coat. and II has buttona at Inc "alSt
+ limo The ler-o'-mutton sleeves are rather smaller
| than the fashionable sleeve for wraps OF 'o-ua|'
The short coat is made with modcrae-szed reVerS
I rounded corners IN front and fun godet pa'"
The skirts worn with these coats are OF 'h' SAM
material and are perfectly plain. being finished by
/ rows OF stitching above a plain hem 10 ma''h '"e
/ edge Of stitching on the coat
While black and navy blue are favoTlte colors '"r
entire suits in hopsacklng and serge. silVer-gray
clotb is popular for elaborate tailor gowns. For
| ordinary wear dark oxford gray. IN mixtures th"t
are nearly black. rivals hopsackng. The blazer
which must not be confounded with the fitted coat
IS still 10 be much worn In spite OF all that mas
been done TO vulgarize the STYLE. The back mas
fun godet pleats and wide sha VI r"VeTs' "h''l may
4 BE- faced with SILK
Tho rnost plc,ureeqne little bonnets and hats in
. English walking shape or sailor style, are worn
bv Young ladies' with tailor suits In spite OF All 'ne
efforts to Introduce the hatt"rs nat Ma'r"h'y
/ women stn cling 10 tho small straw bonnet "hch
f. made this season OF rough picturesque straw
with garnitures Of cowslips other spring io"erS
The DAYS OF the puff and pannier ana the frivo-
ous and fascinating fashions OF the Pompadonr era
I furnish many designs 10 the French dresstnah'IS'
That We shall have bOufant overskirts ana ufAPe'E
in the near future Is beyond question as far as
elaborate dress IS concerned one or IN" ch''l
/ r.asons for the adoption Of these most feminine
and frou-frou fashions. which demand abundance
Of lace dainty Cauzes spanges ana sheer Hld''''-
ais IS the cOnfounding Of the tailors Aho'her J.
,b fact that tailor STYLES are somewhat trying 10
/ women who are past the bloom or early YOUTH
Tho black tailor suits that now being worn
are indeed exceedingly trying to all eNccp' u"
| those with clear fair compiexors ana perfectly
F moulded forms. II is not generaIly f"ah%cn '""'
hiack ia irving color except to fair. clear com
nlexon: and il needs abundant relief o Iace span:
giles or garniture in color. Elderly women VIII "hn
' 1,rk r,cn tones OF color far more becoming ana
no more conspicuous. Dark navy biue daik nj
rnelite brown. which harmonlzeS with uh'S OF
hroun hair are more suitable for women OF md
die age Silver gray. which has such fascination
FOR n,lddle-aged women. IS another trying INT SUIT
able only 10 young women with far compieN'ohs' !"
choosing tailor gown. special attention must pe
ai1 IN the Color because the severity OF me pres
ont tailor STYLE renders unfortunate color sun
mara irving In rich materials Ike V1IVet ana
rnojr4 such as Worth and the other frehch u'eS"-
Majors have adopted, entire wraps ana gowns OF
,,d Hack relieved by trimmings Of lace and
snaneIed net are most fetching and elegant wheh
'orn nv fair women with golden hair. Even these
elaborate gowns in black must be avoided by .he
,nlddle-aged woman whose complexion has be-
! como dun and whose locks have faded TO duh
color And yet they are the very o"V' ''' - ''
| likely TO select
rho narted locks against which there has been
eo much opposition, generally accepted """
,.ub tbem a Grecian knot. worn moderately hish
| ,,s, bolov the crown of the head. The hair must
! no wavv and the severe effect Of the parting must
no softened by light locks around the temples ar
ranged in a careless. natural fashion 10 suit the
face The Intelligent hairdresser is able. by iho'-
,duai treatment adapt this general styie 10 any
faco hut she never dresses the hair OF two persons
| .xocuv alike Some of Lenthcrics recent coinures'
hou.ever are arranged la Pompadour' ana II oss ~
saiI that parted hair must soon 90 with o'heI iooV
stylcs-and that we are even on me eve " ,birtv or
t. "a curious 10 note how the coloTs OF tiIt! vi
forty years ago are being revived on ,s nd ninks
d ;bs van and now come the old bues anu pIlInaa
@ ia nreensrcolors that would have been consiueerrhh
very loud" and Outre year or Two aso' uus ,o,n q
now quite harmonious Win ,hnrefore h this
MIN we have the genuine apple-green BACK asaia.
color which delightfully."- suggestive OF , dress "a
sph. ~ o', th,s tint which would admirably sun Il
S.ond beauty The principal material ,S ,sshtIx s1I
crfpon which Is skilfuily dra2ed over Thi. forms
eS ~ petnoat AS we'll the crepon oyerskirt ,s pshs y
left open on the left side to snow nan h,ch ds sewn
at that side The crepon Is
slightly raised the hips on the rg1t a,s skirt Is OF
the effect OF drapery anoIyn Win the hem all the