davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The morning call., 1894-04-01

for novelty their weaves are frequently
disguised under new names. The gaunre
suitings are also in favor.
The overskirt is here in full force. In
some cases it is far from pretty, for in
striving for originality the modiste shows
very evidently that she has achieved only
an ugly imitation Of that desirable
article.
For house wear and hard travelling the
challi has jumped into favor. appearing IN
new and dainty colorings. as we'll as pre-
sented in those subdued tones suitable for
dusty service.
A Partisan fancy for the use Of velvet
ribbon is to sew rows and rows OF it
around silk blouse. making it look as If
il were made out of bayadere striped silk.
Plain stocks, with an Alsatian bow
without ends, and handsome Rhinestone
buckle. are worn with low-necked evening
dresses, and are very effective.
The three-quarter Prince Albert coat
of the winter will be in vogue again this
spring. Stout and lean women afike have
taken TO this style with eyidity.
The regulation sailors hat has appeared
with very high crown and narrow rim,
which gives it very mannish effect, not
becoming to many faces.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
AS to Storeroons.

1t Is coming to be a pretty we'll under
stood principle of city housekeeping that
to buy in quantities does not pay. 1t is a
system of old-time living that is not in
accord with modern conditions. When
supplies were difficult to get it was a neces-
sary arrangement that quantities should
be kept on hand, and the housewife of a
generation or two ago regarded a we'll
stocked storeroom rs one OF the patents of
her profession, without which she had no
claim to superiority. The tradition still
elIngs to provincial housekeeping. but the
city provider finds it undesirable in every
way.
Her residence is built awithout proper
storerooms, she has no conveniences for
accommodating Drovender. The corner gro
Gerry is her pantry, its irebox is hers. from
W hIch she can draw at five minutes notice
for fresh supplies. The tradesmen keep
every seas0nable and unreasonable deli
cacy in condition for her, and they, II OF she.
bear any loss and waste that may result
from the process.
That this is not only great relief from
care, but a positive economy. she soon
finds. A pound OF coffee ground fresh at
the store for her order she discovers lasts
so many days, and the cook becomes aware
OF the same truth. So with the four
pound roll of butter. the % cents worth OF
eggs. Without effort the system creates
itself, and small wastes and leakages are
done away with.-New York Times.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Manicuring at Home.

The woman who attracts and seeks to
attract attention by her dress, her color,
her manners, still has her nails shine like
fresh crystals and brought to an acute
point. But the woman Of good form has
now forsaken that acute point; her nail is
cut exactly to the round OF her finger.
matching the half-moon below. and just
betraying the tip; lit is filed simply to
smootbness, and rubbed only enough to re-
move roughness and marks A weekly
polish with the roSe-tinted and rose
scented salve, washed away with the
brush In warm water before hDlshlng,
answers all the needs CT the nail thus kept.
while before tue polishing the nail has
been thoroughly cleansed, so that no loose
skin or hard particle adheres to the SIDES
or base, in order that no hang-nail can be
formed to work or to tear down to the
quick flesh. Every woman who wishes
this done can do it for herself, and,
except the salve, she usually has at
nome all that Is needed; and II she
has not she can supply herself with
little box Of manicure instruments
from any druggist, ana if she wishes to lie
back in grace and languor she can call In
her maid to the work and be as well salts
fed as if she had a practitioner and paid
her dollar. Ii she prefers professional
services she can find them at the Turkish
VI husSldu UatUs OF at TIE HdlIuASooeA =
while often the hardresser who comes to
make her ready for the dance is able to
attend to her fingers too.
When the nails have been once or twice
dressed by manicure who has studied
the possibilities of the hand, the best way
TO hide its defects and bring out its excel
lence, the shape in which the nails will
look the best and lend most charm to the
hand, dressing it lightly and softly with
her own deft fingers. whose touch is
delight, il will be an easy matter to keep
them atterward in proper guise. This care
Of the nails is not an affectation or
vanity. 1t is something that s-due to a
part of the person which. when it
is perfect, is as satin soft as
Mermet rose leaf, and as shining,
as lucid as piece of pale pink
coral from Neapolitan waters, with lights
upon it and depths within it that make it
loveler than the jewels that often adorn
its finger, and that shows natures pleasure
in always ending off and finishing every
thing with a sort of mark OF appreciation.
-Harper's Bazaar.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
WOMEN ANDHOME.
Some Novelties in Spring
Millinery.
A POEM IN SATIN AND VELVET
Suggestion for Waste-Paper Bas-
ket-Cravat Bows-Don'ts for
HOuse-Furnishers.


The room with many doors is often
sore vexation to the woman who is striv-
ing to evolve a pleasing interior. What
can you do with such room asks some
one in despair. In the first place see how
many of the doors can be conveniently dis
pensed with In your coming and going.
II any. make the doors an ornamental
panel, on which pictures or bracket with
a good piece of bric-a-brac, or set of
shelves. may be hung. If there is sufficient
height between the top of the door and the
ceiling. put shelf for snowy ornaments
that have good color over the door, or
long narrow mirror or flower picture.
Some of the studies that come with the
art magazines are used to great advantage
in this place. A different effect may be
had by placing tall bookcase or buffet
or sofa against the door. and often thi S
is improved by first covering the door with
some harmonious hanging used in folds.
The morning call., 1894-04-01

Agirl was passing up the broad stair
case of GLADSTONE Hall one October after
noon when she heard her name called,
and. answering the summons, she turned
into a pretty little room, half boudoir, half
conservatory.
AZ have lust had telegram from Cyril;
he is coming tonight, Mary.
Mary. Sebastian smiled at her hostess
radiant expression.
Il should not have imagined the atmos-
phere of a musical festival quite congenial
to MI Dunstan," she said.
'Oh! it isn't" Lady Lillian Snowe an
swered, promptly. cyril does not know
the difference between a trombone and a
symphony; he is coming 10 look after the
guns. You see my party is little mixed. :"
Mary laughed, and said Very" to this,
seeing that the party comprised couple
of guaTdsmen. a popular tenor, barristsr,
a middle-aged pTima donna and her
mother two society beauties and the
daughter of prosperous tradesman.
Just little mixed, certainly, dear Lady
Lillian" she repeated lightly.
- My dear" Lady Lillian replied quickly,
your father is not tradesman.
What is he, then 90
NO one can call Mr.. Sebastian trades
man. A great fuaIcier, if you like. but
not tTadesman.''
Mary Sebastian looked doubtful.
He began by hawking chips on a bar
row; now he contracts largely for the sale
. of timber. | call that trade, don't you?
But 1t is an honest word. after all, and
am not ashamed Of ii. l am. in fact, ex-
actly like the old butterman in the play,
for | never see tree that don't feel In
clined TO make courtesy TO il. You don t
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Notes.

One Of the popular spring skirt patterns
suitable for all sorts of lightweight fabrics
consists of five sections--a gored front
breadth, wide gored side breadths and two
back breadths which join in a bias seam
directly behind. 1t measures AZ yards at
the hem and is gored to fit the waist at the
top On the front and sides. with full plaits
in the back.
Taffeta silk waists are in changing
col0rs. with dots, chine dashes or flowers,
or narrow stripes. They are made with
slight fullness below the collar, and are
held in by belt to fall ip frill below.
The sleeves are wide leg of mutton, or are
pulled to the elbow.
Shirt waists aud blouses made of wash
able. fabrics in plain. beautiful col0rs. in
pink. pale blue, cream, ETC., and In checks,
stripes and fancy combinations. will again
be highly favored for both city and
country wear.
Particular favorites in materials this
year are the old-t timers, crepons and hop
sackings. though to suit the great demand
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Bags for the Bath.

a delightful preparation for the bath.
and one that is good for softening and
whitening The skin, is made from oatmeal,
pure Castillo soap and Italian orris root.
powdered. The soap is powdered and
mixed with the oat meal and 0rris root,
and put in small bags of cheeseeloth to be
used in place of sponge. Enough of the
bags to last long time may be made from
five pounds of meal. half pound of soap
and pound of orris root. Make as many
nags as you can from yard of cheese.
cloth, cutting them about 4 or 5 inches
square, and stitching them tightly. Fill
the bags loosely and sew up the other end.
Dip in warm water whenNyou use one.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Pink Moire and Satin.

a very Frenchy gown is of pink MORE
striped with satin. says the Philadelphia
Times. Fhe stripes go round and round
instead of up and down. The skirt has a
putting of pink chiffon around the foot and
the tight-fitting, squaTe-cut bodice has a
similar decoration. The short sleeves are
very full, and over them fall ruffies of
thin, fine black lace embroidered with
silver spangles that glitter with every mo-
ton of the wearer. About the waist this
same black lace is gathered in narrow
fold ana falls in front in two long, loose,
glttering sash ends. Th;s gown would
not do for a debutante, as it is a bit too
.ynrldlY
The morning call., 1894-04-01
AN ACT OF WISDOM.
Lady Lilian's Scheme to Prevent a Nephew Mar
rying the Girl He Loved.

without one penny belonging to her |
should love her just the same, and. indeed,
marry her with even greater satisfaction
than | do now
Lady Lillian accepted her nephew's re-
proof very amiably.
"Charmngly romantic" said she to herr
self, as she sat having her diamonds taken
from her hair. "and SO Characteristic OF
GEAR Cyril. No doubt he would marry
Mary just the same if she were penuiless
tomorrow. but he reckonS without his
host If he imagines | should ever allow
him 20 carry such lamenta BILE Quixoticism
into practice. However. thank goodness,
Mary is not pennies; she is his affianced
wife now, and for the rest they can be as
romantic as they like; 1t will amuse them
and won't hurt me"
Mary Sebastian received a letter the
next morning that gave her much surprise.
1t was from firm of solicitors asking her
in slightly peremptory though courteous
tones TO be so good as 10 favor them with
a visit in Lincoln's Inn Fields as soon as
possible.
The girl was little perturbed as we'll
as surprised at this letter. ''Something
about the Grange, | suppose" she added
to herseH-the Grange being huge country
house which her father had lately bought
and made over to ber-"but WHY do they
write to me instead of to father? | wOn-
der if he is in town just now; it is a long
time since / heard from him. had better
90 up to these lawyers this morning." the
girl unused on; sit is hard TO have to leave
Cyril the very first day we are together,
but it seems TO me as though this were
really important" Mary scanned tie let
ter again. Yes, | will 60 to-day. Cyril
will want to come, too, of course. but /
mnst not let him. Lady Lillian will be
furious if he does not look after the guests /;
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Some Don'ts in Decorations.

Don't use table lamp of herculean pro-
portions on a small table or in small
room. Give the eye space as well as the
lungs. Space in the center of the room is
as precious as the most costly piece oil
furniture, for it enrichss all the furnish
ings.
Don't put extra heavy drapsry in small
rooms.
Don't overload your rooms with furnt
ture and bric-a-brac.
Don't place an easel with large picture
thereon in the middle of the parlor floor.
Don't place a large wooden pedestal
with group of statuary between the easel
The morning call., 1894-04-01

bands of embroidered plush. The corn
flowers and forget-me-nOts are worked in
two shades of blue. the leaves in three
shades of green, and the stalks In two
shades of brown. The true lovers knot is
worked with tinsel thread. The plush
bands are lined with satin. and are edged
with tinsel trimming, with a chenille POM
pom at each point. The edge of the silk
drapery Is finished with tassel fringe.
The drapery of plush at the loot of the
basket, and the slanting drapery at the
top are both edged with fringe. Bows of
ribbon ornament the top and foot Of bas-
Iyat
The morning call., 1894-04-01

The white satin bodice is deliberately
trimmed with the rose velvet, with
a wide bertha OF lace edging the low
cut neck. The sleeves are finished with a
band OF rose velvet, and the big puffs of
white satin at the top are mixed with
rose vevetribbon. ending in wide founce
of lace at the elbow.
Diamond pins fasten the bertha of lace.
and diamond necklace and earrings are
worn with this costume. Mrs. Burt's
beautiful opera cloak is entirely OF er-
The morning call., 1894-04-01

most artistic and filled with curios cuiled
from foreign lands. her Turkish room
being a gem of art. She dresses eXquis-
itely, and is seen almost every pleasant
afternoon driving in Central Park behind
pair of handsome cobs.
One of Mrs. Burt's most becoming gowns
is of white satin. with old rose velvet
trimmings. The skirt. of white satin, is
made very full. with court train.
The morning call., 1894-04-01

A new kind of fuel made from solidified
petroleum and other materials is now be-
ing extensively manufactured in France.
Ii is stated that its hea,-producing prop
critics are very great and that experiments
to use it in engine-furnaces have been of
most satisfactory nature.
The morning call., 1894-04-01

or so plain and straight that i, looks like
a panel. Other doors that it is necessary
to use may be draped with some pretty
curtain. hanging in folds at one side. or
carried across the top of the doorway.
Have such portieres long enough to hang in
graceful folds. but not full enough to give
n heavy look to your rooms.-New York
Post
The morning call., 1894-04-01
White Satin and Rose Velvet.

Mrs. George A. Burt is cultured
charming woman. whose delightful per-
sonality has made hers favorite every
where. says the New York World. She is
descendant from the old Adams family
of Boston and is niece OF Senator Nye
Mrs. Burts apartments in the Nevada are
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Waste-Paper Basket.

A Hastily decorated waste paper basket
that can be arranged by any one with an
idea of the artistic is pretty ornament
for the library. The one shown in the
picture is of wicker; it is covered with a
drapery of figured oriental silk. with
The morning call., 1894-04-01

OF dried flowers and grasses are then sewn
to the velvet; a humming-hird is placed on
the upper bouquet. This style of frame
could also be used for photograph.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
A French Dinner Gown.

This very pretty Paris dinner dress has
a draped skirt of satin ponceau opening
over an underskirt of black reau de sole.
The corsage of the peau de sole opens
upon plastron of the satin popceau en-
bfcldered with jet and steel. The bertha
The morning call., 1894-04-01

inches greater than it was last fall. The
gorge is cut very low and long, and the
lapels. which are we'll peaked. with the
corners rounded away. This gives much
wider spread of buttons at the end of the
roll across the breast than at the waist,
aud produces a tapering effect to cor
respond with that of the back, which is
caused by the increased shoulder width
and the shortness of the waist. The lapels
are evenly spaced for five buttons. are silk
faced to the end of the buttonholes and
turn to the third hole. The collar is Of
velvet and meets the lapels without show
ing daylight.
This overcoat is a beautiful garment,
and on a welcomed man is as becoming
an overgarment as we have ever seen.
4 The material for the vest is fancy vest
ing. The gorge is cut very low and long
The morning call., 1894-04-01

Great Britain. France and Russia each
contribute $4,000 year to the civil list of
the King OF Greece.
The morning call., 1894-04-01

upper one OF the two shown in the picture
Is of blue and cream color reversible rib
bon dotted with gold. The other is of
ruby velvet and brocaded ribbon. The
effect may be heightened by a jewel where
the bow is joined.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
FOR THE MEN.
What Is Fashionable in PaIetots and

dITNy V Cotos
The striking features in the mems world
Of fashion for the season is the double
breasted paletot and the double-breast
fancy vest. The Sartoria Art Journal of
New York says: -: ::
The forepar; and skirt Of the raletot are
cut IN one piece. but the waist seam is ex-
tended to the front V in order to hollow.
the skirt top and secure sufficient bottom
fullness. The skirt top from the front "
to the plat is well curved and raised,
which makes the bottom width several
The morning call., 1894-04-01
THE LADY OR THE TIGER
she gets two letters in the mail.

She gets two letters in the mall
The envelopes are scanned:
A girls handwriting is on one,
mans the other hand
She lays them down; she hicks one IN.
Its seal IS quickly burst
Now. who is wise enough to saw
Which one she opens first? Life.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
A Mirror Frame.

In short time the lovers of nature and
of natures beauties will go out into the
wildwoods, green fields and meadows,
where they will gather the treasures of
Flora. Certain wild flowers and grasses
The morning call., 1894-04-01

In Europe there is one mile of railroad
for every q square miles of territory. In
the United States there is one mile for.
every 10 $40 square miles of territory.
The morning call., 1894-04-01
Cravat Bows.

VI dV dI DOWCs
Cravat bows, which some years ago were
fad. are making their appearance again,
and many of them when properly ar
ranged produce charming effect. The
The morning call., 1894-04-01

and the lapels are greatly peaked. This
gives wide spread to the buttons across
the breast and spreads them. about as
usual at the bottom. producing an excel
lent and very stylish effect. The collar
meets the lapes flush. The fronts close
with four buttons. the crease is straight.
the edges. are single-stitcEed and the lapel.
and collar seams are pressed open and
stitched on each side to match: =.
The Wilmington daily Republican. (Wilmington, Del.) 1890-1902, 1894-05-18

.WhiIs IN, the Western. Union ofice IN
boston, Edison. like great many others
On 'the nirht foroo ewas bothered by the
wat army 81 oooffoaches that each night
formed q h6fiow squnrc, with the opera
tors, llunchboxss on the inside. The lunch
az were kept on an unused table, and
promntlv al e.ao each niaht. or naayhap
EARLIER. the cookroach leqions would march
upon the old table. ascend tho four legs
that upheld IT, and gorge themselves on
snndxvjobce, annie pie and other eatables.
One night while Edison was waiting for
Wosbington 10 start the newspaper spe-
oiaE he conceived a plan to apnihilate the
whole ooekronch horde.
He said nothing. hut when he reported
The Wilmington daily Republican. (Wilmington, Del.) 1890-1902, 1894-05-18

The boxing und wrestling entertain.
ment at the Peoples Theatre, Saturday
evening, May 10Th, is under the per-
eonal direction of Prot. John Ii.
Clark, champion lightweight boxer OF
the world. 1t promises to he the
largest and greatest event of the kind
ever seen In this city There Will he
three special bouts for money prizes.
Morlarity offers to wager $50 that
he will best Jimmie Fox. Charlie Me.
keever and Young Hanna, who have
,signliied their Intention OF accepting
Moriarity's offer, to box any light
weight Prof Clark brings to Whining
ton. Moriarlty also has a special bout
with Ed. Myers. cham pion lightweight
tof Colorado. As both men recently
fought draws with Horace Leeds, an
lexcitibg contest may DO expected.
james Giynn, champion heavy
weight OF brooklyn, will make hot
light with Fred Woods. middle-welgh.
champion OF Pepnsylvpnln; Tommy
Kelly, Of Boston, meets Jack Hagan OF
philadelphia; Joe Adler, OF Philadel.
Iphia, goes against Harry Mckenna OF
Buffalo. Another Interesting go will
be between James O'DOnnell, los To-
champion of Philadelphia and bar
lCoughlin. los Id. champion of Phlla.
ldelphia. One of the great features oil
the bill will lie the illustrations oil
lights and fighters, between Master
Frank Hogan. SO Id. champion of the
world and Prof. Clark.
Daft Diggnee. champion lightweight
wrestler of England, ami BennIe Jones
champion OF Amcrici, offers s25 to an y
Hight. weight they can throw in iiftesI
minutes. Two local wrestlers will
contest for the prize.
! Truly the above bill Is the greatest
ever offered here. and Prof. Clark't
nnuue alone Is Hguarantee that thsrt
will be no 'fahos," and that every
thing will DO az advertised
The Wilmington daily Republican. (Wilmington, Del.) 1890-1902, 1894-05-18

Philadelphia, Pa, who had cured MIN OF
the bad effects of indiscretion. Well. i
went and saw DIR. Theel and mu3t say
he was unlike the other physicians. He
carefully and thoroughly examined me
and stated that my trouble was due TO
Blood Poison and Weakness brought on
by my own folly. After SIX weoks under
this learned mans treatment. all the
pimples and biotcbe s left me; my appetite
Improved slept better; my poor mem.
DRY became stronger; my hair stopped
failing out, my throat and mouth healed
up;I gained % pounds In six months; ]
could walk again for miles, my whole
body became clean; the boila aud hard
swollen glands left me; no more head.
pchei no more unpleasant dreams or
pains in small OF back; | felt young and
happy once more. Four years have pass
ed and | am well and strong. | sec 30
many pfaising the good and noble heart
ed DIR. THEEL, and / want TO add my
little bit and say all. whoever you may
DO, rich or poor. go and consult DR.
g. r. THEEI. 1917 ARCH STR EFT.
PHIIsA., (formerly of 53S N. Fourth st.
He will cure positively, II a cure Is posse
BILE. Office hours. p-s; Evenings 6-S.
W ednesdny and Saturday evenings. to
10; Sundays. p-l2. Send five 2-oent
stamps Tor book. TRUTH. the only boo K
exposing quacks who copy his ADVERTISE
ments No name or address Will be pub
ished without consent OF patient.