The record-union., 1894-03-31
JOURNEYS IN JAMAICA.
Impressions of Traveller in the
Land of Ginger and Rum.
dred-Mile Drive Around the Island
society and Social Studies of the
Inhabitants.

When Columbus likened Jamaica to a
crumpled sheet OF paper he gave to Isa-
bella better inscription of the appear
ance of the island than he could have
probably given her in words. At first as
the steamer approaches from the north
east it seems great rock rising boldly
from the deep blue waters of the Carib-
bean. Approaching the coast, great
mountains loom up, piled one on the
other in endless confusion; gradually the
dark spots develop into great patches of
forest, the lighter spots into fields of
guinea grass; valleys open up, some-
times with steep precipitous sides, like
the canyons of the Rockies, through
which rush mountain torrents that are
slowly but surely leveling these great
mountains and spreading them out evenly
upon the floor OF the sea.
The rivers in Jamaica are somewhat
unique. Recelvlng their volume from the
great rainfall upon the mountain tops;
they pour down the valleys, carrying
powders and masses of rock, then some
times suddenly disappearing below the
surface, to reappear again farther down,
like great springs boiling out OF the
earth. a few OF these rivers never reach
the sea, for in attempting to cross the hot
low plains of the southern shore they
evaporate and are carried back by the sea
breezes to recondense and start the pro-
cess over again. The majority of the
streams do reach the sea and often annoy
the traveller who must ford them, for
they are sometimes too capricious to be
bridged.
The steamer from New York passes
the eastern extremity of the island, and
proceeds along the southern coast OF Port
n a ny nf Il ir,rrc
ton, which is the capital and chief town
of Jamaica. situated well back within the
good harbor. One cannot help viewing
Port Royal with degree of interest.
Once ''tbe richest place in the universe"
the home and rendezvous of the famous
buccaneers who sailed the Spanish Main
and brought here their ill-gotten gains to
live in wild, barbaric luxury and dissi-
patton.
When England's gunboats brought law
and order into her West Indian possess
sions, the glory of Port Royal departed.
Fire and earthquake have played havoc
here and Yellow Jack has made some
costly visits. 1t looks innocent enough
now in its grove Of cocoanuts, only some
rusty old cannon giving evidence OF its
past.
Kingston is not disappointing to the
Northern visitor. 1t is essentially tropi-
cal as regards streets and houses and the
swarms of barefooted darkies that lounge
or shuttle along. Strange trees throw
their branches over the roofs of the
dwellings, and the gardens are rich in
vegetation new and curions. Buzzards-
big, red-headed fellows perch on the
housetops, fences or hitching-posts, al
ways on the cross over the churches, and
lazily wink at one. Little toy horse-cars,
with barefooted driver and conductor, go
rafting by, barefooted women innumer-
able move along with loads upon their
heads-a basket of fruit, bundle of
clothes, small bottle, chicken, any,
thing you wish, the head is the place to
carry it. Small black policemen in big
white hats look important. for they keep
order. Everything seems queer at first
to the uninitiated Northerner in this
tropical city.
One wishing to really see and know Ja-
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