New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-04-01
MEMS FASHIONS.
THE DRESS SUIT OF THE DAY.

THE DRESS SUIT Of THE DAY.
The changes in the full-dress suit are unimportans
from TO season, and it Il we'll that II is so.
for the man OF fashion does not expect to
indulge in a new one every year. The evening dress
OF to-day is shorter In the waist than before.
For p medium sized man II is IS inches, the full
length being 40 inches The skirts cling closer
the hips. The peaked lapels faced with silk
to the button-holes. though some men have the
facing extend so the edge. silk collar IS very
little In demar nd and considered ultra. The lapels
open quite low and have n decided roll. and they
stitched finished with fine cord. The
sleeves have imitation cuffs and closed with
three buttons
The trousers average 10 inches at the knee and
II inches at the bottom. having a slight spring.
and the outside finished with fine cord
a braid Side pockets not in style.
although this is optional. The waistcoat has a
moderately shiei1-shaped opening; it is % 10 %
inches long and has three buttons 23 inches apart.
1t is singe-breasted when made OF the mate
rial the coat and trousers. 1t has four pockets.
the upper two being well set back toward the
holes.
The material used is largely the broadcloth twills
and fine twill worsteds. though thbets and soft
vlcunas liked by some men. The effort the
part OF several of the hgh-cass aors TO introduce
oxford and Cambridge grays has not been success
full. They have been used to a limited extent In
London. but considered extreme even there
The Tuxedo coat is becoming more popular every
season. II is sack. with lapels and collar all in
one piece. and lined with silk. 1t may have side
pockets without flaps. The material used is the
same as in the evening dress suit. adding serge
for summer use. There many occasions
which this semi-dress garment may be worn that
It promises to grow in favor.
The dress shirt has front either perfectly plain
or having very modest embroidered vine near tho
t.ta
is now passe. 1t should open in front front and
back but never be made closed In front. Spras
not used as much az formerly. and in their
place two small stud buttons with oval bah
tops worn. and to prevent the bosom from be-
| coming creased the studs pushed through
the button-holes from the inner side. The cuffs,
which should be attached but may be separated,
have square points and made for link sleeve
buttons. The sleeves must be just the proper
length that the cuffs will extend not more than
an inch beyond the coat-sleeves. The collar Is
straight stand-up. having the points slightly rolled
or rather large and we'll turned back. The proper
height IL 2la inches. The BOSOM collar and cun
must have a dead finish.
The pajama is steadily gaining in popularity
men become better acquainted with ts usefulness
and comfort The jacket is cut TO fit very loosely.
1t has a collar made either to stand up "a lie
down. The sleeves very roomy; they extend
not quite the wrist and there finished per-
fectly plain and closed. Its length averages
20 inches and II i'm the round u inches. II
closes In front or ION side with four covered
buttons or with four corded knot fasteners. Tho
trousers are made very roomy and straight. Thu
waistband measures "a inches: at the knee
inches. The waist has cord or tape made Of silk
cotton. drawn through wide welt. and this
ties In front. The material used for spring and
summer Is Madras silk. and the patterns are
similar to those used for shrk, but much moro
pronounced Large checks. pl;kls and stripes In
Madras. much in favor. and broad colored
stripes white ground are very stylish in SILK.
A novelty in mems pocket handkerchiefs Is the
"Mieraye" IL Is not hemstitched. but the edges
are cat-stitched with colored linen thread; the
ma teral is fine linen cambria. Another is white
linen centre having a 2s-inch hem. which has very
fine hairne stripes close together in blue and
pink New things In colored and filled centres are
seen The ground is white. and rowing and SER
pentIne designs printed in blue. black heo-
trope and pink. AS they only be printed
one side: the cloth IL so thin that the printing
strikes through The hens In these handkerchiefs
are II, inches wide and plain white. For dress.
plain white linen cambria. having hem y inch or
2. inch wide. Is correct The handwoven are DE:
sheerness. combined with a soft. pliable finish,
which cannot be initiated I'm the machine made
white handkerchief is always in the best taste for
all occasions
The colored shirt trade seems TO have created
a demand for highly colored handkerchiefs, and
solid navy. butcher blue. pink and heotrope. hav-
ing figures In white centre and on hem.
very pretty style Is a size; the centre Is wnite:
narrow hem OF. say, y inch in solid navy. butcher
blue or pink. to match the lines. The quality
me ana sheer