St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1894-03-25

producer, into which the fair skaters are
coyly hidden and quickly whirled away to
other scenes of gayety.
Returning from the festive skating scene I
had to cross the Neva between the Winter
Palace and the Stock Exchange The Bridge
of Boats which spans the river at this point
is removed before the ice appears. But when
the ri yer is frozen hard roads traverse the
smooth surface in every direction. In fact
the river is common highway with lamps
oil lamps it is true-and snowy sidewalks.
1t was one of the most enchanting
scenes [ have ever witnessed-this drive
across the Neva on a frosty starlit night.
Imagine Venice with the lagoons ice blocked.
There IS the same mysterious silence. The
sleighs as they whirl across the smooth track
make no more noise than the silent gondola.
Stretching away FOR miles on this, the Grand
Canal of the Northern Venice are the lordly
palaces rimed with pearly dots that mark the
gaslit embankments. The gilded cupola of
St. Isaac's lifts itself solemnly into the
heavens; and on the other side of the river
is the tall straight spire of the fortress church
of st. Peter ard Paul, beneath which the Cars
have their last rest. Over all is the glory of
the northern sky.
On the way we pass clean swept ice path
banked by high walls of snow. These paths
are kept clear for curious reason. The
boatmen, who in summer will row you from
place to place for few kopecks, have devised
scheme for continuing their work when the
water is all hard frozen. They keep an ice
road across the river over which they will
convey you on a rough chair on runners for
five kopecks (21-2 cents) OF course these
Clyafo Vo,, R,,l yah
at regular intervals along the embankment.
In the middle of the frozen river we drove
by scene that brought back memories of
Fenimore Cooper. Three conical masses,
with poles sticking out at the apex whence a
thin line of smoke assembled, proclaimed the
typical wigwam. But this was not an encamp-
ment of Sioux. The occupants of the skin
tents are Samoyedes. A number Of them
come here with their reindeer and dogs every
winter. 1t is quite treat for the st. Peters
burgh youngster to indulge in ride ON one
of the comical reindeer sleighs. The other
attactions of the camp are mostly in the eat
ing line, that is watching the Sans at their
repast. 1t is a disgusting sight. In the
absence of blubber these heathens eat raw fish,
But they are particularly delighted if visitor
buys them live fish from the neighboring
vendor. The whole family, men, women and
children fight for the prize like a lot of sea
gulls. The one who can get the fish into his
mouth swallows it whole. Only then is he
sure of having it.
"Maslianitza'' is the Russian word for car
nival; literally it means the "Time of Butter
1t must be remembered that during Lent
butter is tabooed, only vegetable oil being
allowed. Even margarine is placed under the
ecclesiastical ban. Masliantza then is the
Russians opportunity for having a good time
as far as eating goes, and also in other ways
They have huge fair on the Champ de Mars,
whose glories might arouse envy in the hearts
of managers of the Midway Plaisance. The
people turn out in thousands to take part in
the fun, while the aristocrats drive grandly
round, occasionally condescending to look
in at the shows.
The gentlemen who hold forth on every
side of each booth are apt to crack personal
jokes at any weil-dressed person who goes
by, much to the amusement Of the crowd.
This is the only time in the year that the
masses can get back at the classes in Russia,
and they don't miss any opportunities The
funny man at the fair is always dressed in
one particular way. He wears an uncouth
WIS anu hO"lIS pSdIu vi coarse max, a dark
brown kaftan with variegated patches, and
birch-bark moccasins. Over his neck is
slung thick brass chain attached to a tin
box with a key. Before he lets off a joke he
always winds the box up as if it were a watch.
The funny man, in short, is Russianized
caricature of our friend Farmer Hayseed in
New York.
Some of the theatres are very large frame
structures. l was present at performance
| of "Unce Toms Cabin" The play was in
| the latest style of melodrama, and drew
thunderous applause from an audience
i whose sympathies were of course very keen.
| Probably one-haif of the house had been
| born in serfdom. But the Russian Uncle
Tom was very comical to any one who has
seen and heard real negro.
If you ask any one in st. Petersburg what
their preference is in regard to winter sports
and pastimes, the reply will be unanimous
troyka party, or "picnic,' as they call it.
This picnic means a drive in troyka sleigh
some miles out of town to restaurant for
supper, followed by dancing, and drive
home in the small hours of the morning.
The formality of the salon is out of place in
comfortable and roomy sleigh.