The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-07-01
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Now the Bicycle Has Found Favor
With the SWeIIS.
You Will See 1t at Newport and Bar
Harbor-Regulation VS.. Divided
Skirt-Colors and Materials-Bath-
ing Costumes in Fine Colors.

New YORK, June Bicycling has sud
denly come into good repute with swell
dom. For long time it was only com
mon folk that sped noiseessly along the
graveled roads and country lanes Now
it is whispered, and rather loudly, that if
one frequents certain sequestered lanes
and quiet side streets of New York, one
win be gladdened by the sight eff
fair fashlonables careering on
shining mute steeds-rather timid-
ly at first, but afterward growing drawer,
and fonder of the sport. 1t is the girls
that have set the fashion, as usual, and
and the men have but to follow. The
languid attempts the males made to start
bicycle fad, were devoid of result; but
when we hear such names as Mrs. Bet
TIM, Mrs. SCheiffelin, Mrs Frederick
Belts, Mrs. George l.. Rives, and the
Misses Hewitt, identified with the wheel,
II looks as If the movement would de-
velop into fad. They say, also, the
men are practicing in secret, so
that they will not be found want
ing if any call is made on them at
Newport, Bar Harbor or SOUTHAMPTON,
where the sport is expected to flourish
most.
And with the growth of interest in
wheeling, interest in the costume for
wheeling has deepened. And in that re-
spect, as in many others, we take our
suggestions from Paris. While the poor
American girls were struggling with un-
comfortable, wilful skirts, that refused
| TO stay decorously down, but We're swayed
by every zephyr that blew, the Parish
enne was rolling gleefully along, with
cool puffy trousers and neatly
belted jacket Not one whit cared
she for passels-b y-wnich was
I 4
! comments so quickly ceased. That's
| what is the matter with American girls,
sometimes. We haven't the courage of
our convictions. Il believe il is lady-like
and quite proper to wheel, said more
than one girl year or two ago, but |
! would never dare to face the crowd that
would cape and stare as | passed" Now
these same damses are riding along
serenely, for the bicycle girl is no longer
a rara avis.
! 1t was as difficult to adopt the new cos
tune, as it had been TO adopt the wheel.
! And it needed the few brave spirits
! again, TO bring the innovation into the
! light. And no wonder most of the sex
shrank from The new patterns. For they
were so ugly at the beginning the
! greater part of them-and the girls
| seemed to have lost all their charm. But
! pretty soon few notifications and soften
| ings made a more womauish suit; and
! then the skirt was gradually abandoned
| Now the skirt is the exception among
bicycle riders.
The material used is generally, al
| though not invariably, a heavy one.
| Serge, flannel, and the rough plaid tweed
in neutral gray or brown tints, are the
| fayOrites. For dark suits the fine serges
are used and for warm weather there is
nothing prettier than black China silk or
mohair. The trousers must be made
| very full, so that when the rider steps
from her wheel the division disappears
For cooler weather, the trousers are
lined with flannel or other warm mate
rial.
Union underwear is indispensable be-
meath the bycicle suit, both for health
and comfort and a stiff waist is a good
substitute for the discarded corset. Leg
gings are neither graceful nor necessary
| Black stockings and low black shoes are
in much better taste.
For the woman who insists upon tn e
skirt one that flares well from the hip, is
| most comfortable. II should clear the
ground well, and be lined with silk to
| prevent its clinging to the trousers. The
| trousers may then be made of lighter
weight, with less fullness. The neces-
sary flare at the bottom is given by plaits
set in between the front and side
breadths; while the back is gathered
The bodice may be either a simple
basque, laid in box plaits-three in front
and three in back, narrowing into the
| belt, where they are closely confined :.
or may take more elaborate shape, such
as the one that is pictured. Here the
plain, well-titting Jacket falls in a full
skirt, more than half way TO the knees,
| embrOiGed in minute scallop at the
edge. The jacket has long, graceful
revers, with a stiff skirt front between :
the effect is softencd by full bow of
mousseline or ribbon. For long bicycle
trips, couple of changes of fronts are
carried and some even take a lace front,
should there be any visiting along the
| way.
Or the regulation Elton jacket or short
blazer are quite as suitable for the wheel.
and for genuine warm riding many will
fall back on the comfortable linen shirt
waist
1t is mooted question whether black
or dull brown or gray is neatest and most
appropriate for the wheel. So far as the
! heavy materials, such as tweeds are con
cerned, they look very well 10 the neutral
colors, and it must be confessed that on
a dusty road their wearer presents a
calIner, more unruhied appearance than
! In q black that has been sprinkled with
dust. But for anegceptional weather and
roads, the black suit, with China silk
! trousers, neat jacket and cool white
| linen front is the most graceful and be-
! coming that one could wear.
| Bicycling suggests bathing, for those
are the only two suits in which we can be
| truly comfortable, and as we have grown
more daring in bicycling, so we have be-
! come quieter where the sea gown is CON
| cerned. There black is the favorite
color, and the favorite material-mohair.
| Nothing has been found that equals il.
| although many prefer one with more
! body The incest mohair suits costs only
81 or IS. 1t falls from a plain, square
| yoke-at the back in wide plaits turning
/ toward the center at the fronts in mar
rover and more numerous folds A very
| deep sailor collar in white covers the
! plain yoke and is trimmed with heavy
mohair braid in black The skirt falls
! just below the knees as do the trousers.
and the former is edged with the black
braid, piped top and bottom with white
| The belt Is the same as well as the short
puffy sleeves.
Other mohair suits made simple and
costing - or % have broad bretelles over
each shoulder continuing TO the waist line
in narrowing rufe that points there.
The bretelle is frightened by a scallop
embroidered in scarlet silk; and the
skirts edge and the belt have the same
trimming.
The fine Jerseys make good substantial
suits, mt closely ana are frightened with
rows of blue, white or scarlet braid One
black suit is made conspicuous, and vet
very attractive by cUrving rows Of white