New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-05-27
THE BODICE.
GENERAL AND INDIVIDUAL STYLES.

GENERAL AND INDIVIDUAL STYLES.
The present season may be known as the Of
the bodice. Not only shirt waists worn with
outing costumes of every kind but the separate
waist of fancy silk. chiffon some other dainty
material has become affair of dress. Thus
we have the most fetching bodices Of black chlf-
fon made up over color. Of helotrope. yellow
or red chiffon. held in fine accordion pleats and
made mp with huge balloon sleeves. and sometimes
with entire yokes OF glitterng jet Sometimes the
red chiffon waists have the upper parts OF the large
sleeve finished in overlapping points. which
them to be called poppy waists or 'chrysanthe-
mum bodces," according to the flower which they
resemble. These waists are generally worn with
black MORE or satin skirts. which act foil for
the brilliant glowing color Of the bodice
Worth. who is often advocate Of the extreme
in dress is sending some bodices which are
broadened by the use of slender wires support the
upper part of the sleeve, and the huge revers and
berthas elaborate costumes stifYened by slen-
der whaebones to increase the expansive effect OF
the upper part OF the bodice while they decrease the
apparent size of the waist 1t is not likely that
thess, will become general fashion. The wired
collar and sleeve belong to the sixteenth century,
and rather too uncomfortable and artificial 10
ever again come into general use. The full French
blouse Is of the recent evOlutlOns of the eiabo-
rate waist This is made full from the shoulders
or throat back ana 'front.' and whore the wearer
has a very slender figure II is allowed to droop
slightly over the bell. 1t may be made in red
or canary yellow, deep rose. or delicate green
gauzes mOussene de sole and other sheer materials.
and the sheer quality of India silks. figured with
bayadere stripes which Worth still in suite Of
the fact that other Partisan dressmakers have aban-
doned them.
In point Of fact there has not been a season for
years when the famous Partisan dressmakers were
so much at loggerheads Each great house seems
intent introducing individual styles of It's own.
Worth. for example. insists furbelows and over
skirt,
introduced special design OF his own, to the con-
founding Of the amateurs and other dressmakers.
1t has an indescrbabe flare at the back, which no
one but the initiated Is able to give.
In spite of the many novelties that have been
introduced take the place Of serge. It remains
to-day the favorte material for yachting cycling
and other outing gowns. A plain. rather full skirt
and a simple waiter jacket. made of Indigo b.ue
serge. worn white silk shirt-waist Is the
simple model for a fashionable yachting gown
Plain though the outlines of the dress are. the
grace Of cut and the chic effect given 70 ii by
the fashionable tailor make 1t inimitable and one
of the most becoming gowns that TAR woman
can wear Sometimes the buttons of white mother
OF pearl are sewed with gold thread, some
times the colors Of the yacht embroidered on
the gown and the ribbon of the aher bread
brimmed sailor hat; but these the only depart
ures from severe form which are now allowable
in the regulation yachting attire. Somewhat more
elaborate gowns. however, are sometimes u@ei on
gala occasions here, though any attempt ~
elaboration in English yachting costumes is con-
sidered in bad taste and the gowns worn at the
annual regatta at Cowes practically dictate the
fashions in this respect for the world. The or
nate" French yachting gowns find little favor in
this country. Linen has always been faVorlte
material with yachtswomen. and the fashionable
brown linens well the new linens IN other
coors WILL no doubt find favor for this purpose.
4 dantly pale blue linen. trimmed with tiny pear
buttons sewed or the jacket and white shirt-walst
,.4th fhran1 kAS
Yachting gown White silk waists are In special
favor even with linen outine-gowns. because they
are really cooler than white linen and do not De-
come wrinked so quickly $3.50 =, ,,o,
by French dressnakers is shown by miliners me
maron is no longer limited to ne tny sbape
in hats from which she may choose ner summer
millinery. Hardly two hats are alike. Inc iaShIUn
able milner fits her bonnet or hat 10 tne Gus
TONER'S head with great care as the fashlonapse
dressmaker fits her gown The , Hay DI poge
the hat in the exact position 1t should occupy, ana
proceeds TO stretch it here and draw IL m there
ebonld rest. and a slight adjustment of pins keeps
81 securely In place Every year millinery becomes
rirned with reference to the style of the owners
face and the colors more careluiiy IIose. "
iicbt materials are used for garnture, Fcather5
and flowers are both used. one OF Chalher ; most
euccessful hats is a white straw trimmed win luli
o9ettes Of tue and half faced under the briin and
nexf 70 the face with black velvet, ,,aA
There is no doubt that the dropping plumes "hICn
,ern worn NV women of the sentimental age OF our
rrandmothers about to be revived Nlrot , Sr,iS
large fat hats with no ess tan nS Grodp over
the edge This style Of trimming Is exceedingiy pc
IN Hemans sang and Miss Burney wrote. But the
tbietic wide-a wake girl of to-day needs dlnercht
style Of hat The dropping plume DeohEs VIII, h i
are very difficult 10 revive; because our women ne
healthu have broader chests less comSI thln
tive figures and less SAD ana pensNe '"oeS una"
those q the bygone era