The evening world., 1894-03-09

to be taken. In II she Is slight, or taken
out altogether and bigger ones substi-
tuted II she Is a full figure. And after
side cores, back and bust are correct
hollow back, perhaps; no hips, too prom
incnt stomach, &C, recessitating so
many alterations as to spoil the sale of
the garment.
After the corset is fitted to the model,
two Other girls ~ the same waist meas;
ure are selected and the corset is tried
on each, to prove the Mt, II may be that
Instance 1t is discarded altogether, and
another girl poses. Before a model cor
set is accepted 1t must be adaptable to
figures. What are called extreme fg-
ures-that Is, very thin or very large
are not fitted.
To get a true figure OF any size is e~-
hundred IL perfectly formed. Either one
hip IL lower than the other, one breast
Is 'arSer than the other, the side lines
are unequal or the shoulders don't bal
ance. These defects are only detected
In careful measurements but a slight
deviation may spoil the fit of an other
wise valuable lot Of goods.
the French fieurc IL the model de-
mandcd by American women, and con-
scqucntly those girls are selected who
come nearest to the French figure. To
French would not do. because the two
types are as different in figure as in
temperament. The American woman, as
IA matter OF fact, has no shape: she Is
make her; Il is only a question OF time
and tightening. She is growing Frenchy
because she prefers that style to the
English or Austrian; A few years ago
through the bust and thirteen inches
larger ound the hips than round the
waist: now the bust measure IL fifteen
inches and the hip seventeen incnes
larger than the waist measure.
e member of the firm who attends to
the designing liz as close n student of the
Paris fashions as any butterfly in Vanity
Fair. He subscribes for "A dozen or more
French, German and American publica-
lions devoted to dress and keeps a scrap
album In which cuts of Jackets, bodices
and t~hree-quarter figures are carefully
pasted. He buys photographs Of all the
society beauties and popular actresses
and singers, as fast as they appear, and
all tnese-with their variations of waist,
shoulder and hip draperIes-are sugges
tive OF the requirements of the corset a
la mode.
" = bodices nre made long-waisted,
naturally a long-waisted corset Is needed.
anu when short bodices are the fashion
the corset is made on similar lines. Cor
sets for evening dress are shorter than
both in waist and length. When dress
materials are OF delicate weave at once
the manufacture of fine coutille, satin
and gauze begins, and the corsets are on
o"'N ~ Nv l'l"i ia pShSit tht
dresses are made. There Is no waiting
for the new fashions ito take" Delays
are dangerous.
People eat their breakfast from fore,
Of habit, rather than a sense OF hunger
and they accept the new styles in tn,
same way. The day the novelties ar
received, whether In the form of models
patterns or Illustrations, the corset de
signer knows what is needed, and he fill
the want before II is felt.
For the last six years the waist of tn,
fashionable woman has been forcibl,
lengthening. Now there Is a halt. TIL
tendency is towards perfection of figure
with the so-called perfect figure of tn,
French grande dame as n model. TIL
French woman OF fashion Is remarkabl,
broad In the bust and hips. and attract
lively mail in the waist. She is born so
And the American woman Is growing
more like her all the time.
The best selling corset in trade Is
No. % waist, &c bust and 3S hip, in blacl
jeans. NELL NELSON.