Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1894-01-09
oyErcnAr. CItIAMAY AND rEoCK.

bodied in Il coat or IL waistcoa., Or a pair of
trousers, aud there is no rest for his tailor
until the scheme has been tried. In nine
cases out OF ten the crank is dissatisfied
with the result after the work is done, for
the effect is usually extravagant, but he
sometimes originates n good thing. In fact
he is the author of many good things"
To the eye Of the laymen who wear them
there is little variance in mems clothes
from the styles of a year ago. In fact, the
changes are always more gradual than
those in the fashions for women. In gen.
eral way the styles of last year and this
year differ from those of previous years
mainly in the length of all sorts of coats
and the cut of the trousers. The latter are
now cut fuller than ever before at the knee
and narrow at the bottom. All coats are
now SO outrageously long that the tails are
sure to look wrinkled after wearing half u
dozen times unless you lift them whenever
you sit. and you mustn't do that nowadays,
it isn't FORM and if you do somebody
will say that you haven't another coat to
wear while that one is being pressed. 1t is
a comfort to be able to write on the au-
thority of Mr.. Mitchell that the tendt ncy
is likely soon to turn against such clumsy
and uncomfortable lengths.
In overcoats the Chesterfield, or fly frnnt
oversack, is, as it has been for years, the
prime favoritc. In light weights it vas
made during the fall chiefly in soft gray
materials, though smooth faced goods III
blues, blacks and browns were fanced by
many. In heavy weights for winter veal
kerseys and smooth faced beavers are ia
vorites. As the season advances softer iii
ished fabrics are likely to be more used.
The form is slightly defined, though the
cut is moderately loose, and center and side
seams, with vents to match, are about
equally in favor. The collar is velvet.
Next to the Chesterfield comes the new
ulster, sometimes called the kennel, like
wise the paddock. and also the racing coat
L. is comparatively novel except in some OF
the largest cities. 1t is Every swell" close
fitting and long. The favorte materials
are venetians, covert ccatings ard light
colored, smooth faced fabrics. In length i
is about 80 nche:, for a medium sized man.
The front is usually single, with Il fly, bat
sometimes il j.; heavily double breast ed
rhc hip pockets are crescent shaped, with
big flaps. The breast pocket is straight.
with IL moderate flap to go III or out. Tho
collar and sometimes the cuffs are OF velvet.
ne Don ON 'iCOlL is nldtc from 40 10 &c
inches long. hanging straight from fIill
shoulders, Il .aviiy double breasted and
with very &C .p vents. The Inverness cape
- u greater lvorite than ever AID is the
only coat to HeGr over evening dress. 1t
should fall lery straight i'll the back, be
finished in II mt with IL fly and close to the
throat, with L. Prussian collar or roll. as Il
Chesterfield. The material may be smooth
faced or rou2 a and soft, but frosted beavers
are favorite. .,nd black or very dark c:lcrs
prevail. The covert coat doesn't seeln so
be ''in it" MI nobody seems to ne sorry
because Of it, absence.
The changes in evening dress are limit ID
mostly to Increased length and more de-
cided V shaped openings for vests. Fine
twilled wcrs eds, grapes, dress broadclo,h,
cloth finisi ed worsteds and worsted
vicunas are tIvorite materials, the two last
named being specially swell" Peaked
lapels and 81 awl rolls are about equa, in
favor, youn.; men preferring the latter.
The very latest in lapels are silk faced.
The vest, Tn ess of white or tinted silk, is
single breasted. When single breasted sour
buttons arc IL ed; when double, three. Vests
of the same material as the coat are oftcner
used than t9r several years past, but good
dressers" Sill adhere to silk. The material
of the trou.ers is IL little heavier than for
the coat, and aoutache braid is often used