Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1894-07-24
FOR SUMNER DINNER
RECIPES FOR THE COOKING or FISH
NOW IN THE MARKET.
At Tlfss Season They Are Supplied With
Salmon, Halibut. Sworsifsh. Macke-
rel, HadIock, and Founders

Correspondence OF the Dispatch)
| NEW YORK, July 2l.-The appearance
Of the inhabitants of coast towns and
| others who subsist largely on fish. would
seem to indicate that IT Is a muscle-mak-
ing rather than a fat-producing food
The idea that fish is an especial BRAIN
! food has lost ground, latterly.
One reason why fish is less extensively
used than meat, Is found Ia its perishable
nature.
The best tests for the freshness OF fish
are the filness and clearness Of the eyes
redness OF the gills, and firmness of fins
and flesh
At this season the markets are supplied
with salmon, halibut. sword-fish. macke-
rel Spanish mackerel, and blue-fish, while
cod. haddock. and founders are always in
season.
The prices of FISH as a whole run much
lower than meats, and there is usually
far less waste
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR COOK
ING FISH.
When some time must elapse before
cooking fish, remove the entrails. sprinkle
temperature. as cold as convenient, but
not directly on ice.
To scale fish. place on a large paper;
scrape first with the knife parallel with
the backbone. and then from the tail to-
ward the head. After 1t is done. the
paper may be turned. and the scales are
out OF the way.
Then wipe carefully with a damp cloth,
but do not put the fish in water.
Since the skin IL an excretOry organ u
Is as well not TO eat II. the fish may also
be cut from the bone and served IN Ndri-
Gus dainty fashions.
This, of course. does not apply to trout
smelt. and other pan fish.
The only secret In bOning IL 10 hold the
knife close to the bone, scraping away
every particle Of flesh.
TO remove the skin. loosen II with
knife around the head and pull quickly
toward the tail II the fingers are dipped
in salt occasionally II will give them
firmer grip on the slipping fish. This VIII
be done in the markets If the purchaser
so directs
Tnderdone SSh Is unwholesome. while
overdone Is tough ana woolly In texture
1t is impossible TO give any exact time
for cooking since II will vary with the
shape and texture Of the fish and the
method OF applying heat.
All methods. broiling. boiling, frying
baking, have a similar effect on the flesh
Of animals and. fish softening the connect
ing tissues and hardening the juices.
This is "A guide for all ways Of cooking
the fish Is done when II loses IFS trans
parent CLASSY appearance and has be
come Opaque and when il separates easily
from the bones.
Whatever the method Of cooking. APP
ply great heat al first TO scar the out
side md prevent the escape of the juices
except for a soup or chowder
BROITING AND BOILING.
Broiling is assuredly the Oldest method
Of cooking, and no new one SURPRISES it.
The skin of small or thin fish serves to
Keep them i'm shape; slices Of halibut or
salmon may be broled whole. or the
skin and bone removed, and cut in nlets.
White fish should be brushed with soft
butter. TO prevent burning; oily fish do
not require it. Broil the flesh side first.
4 thick fish may be partially broiled,
then put in the oven. TO insure thorough
cooking Scar quickly. then move further
away from the fire. The gas-stOves are
the best medium for broiling nowadays.
Small portions are rendered more deli
cate by broiling in buttered paper.
Boiling is the most wasteful method
Of cooking. unless the water is also used
for SOUP or sauce-this may be done
If too much salt is not added.
The piece of fish should he compact 10
expose little surface to the water. which
should bubble rapidly when IL is put in.
Let it quickly reach the boiling point
again, but rapid motion OF the water will
only serve to break up or tougher the
FISH. a wire basket is an aid in putting
the fish In and out Of the kettle, or thin
cloth will serve the same purpose Salt
and lemon juice are often added TO the
water in which the fish is boyed TO help
i'm retaining the juices and making the
flesh frmer. The court bouillon of the
French cooks is a preparation Of vinegar
or white wine. highly seasoned. in which
the fish is boiled.
CRISP COATING.
For frying the fat should be hot enough
to put a crisp coating cover over the fish
at once. hotter than for doughnuts or any
dough which must have time to rise but
not so hot as for croquettes, since the fish
would burn outside before II was cooked
throughout. Drain on soft paper, and
serve with an acid sauce.
Baking is recommended by Sir Henry
Thompson. author Of several works on
food. as the best way for all varieties OF
fish.
The baked fish, with its head left on.
although the hollow eyes be well filled
with parsley. Is at best a CHASTITY sight;
nor Is this the best way TO make the most
Of our food material. since here Is fourth
or even "A third OF the fish which Is value
less. Far better use the head and bones
for stock as "a basis Of sauce 10 serve
with the remainder. thick slice of
fish is often baked in milk or tomato
sauce,
An especially dainty way TO bake a fish
is as follows: Remove the head and skin,
insert a knife close to the backbone
and cut away the flesh from each side In
turn. in long strip or fillet. then scrapc
of any bits adhering to the bones
Fold over the narrow end OF one strip
on top. spread with stuhing. place the
other hllet above, folding the thin end
underneath. to give smooth surface on
top; brush over with soft butter and put
skcwtrs down through both LAYERS TO
keep them from slipping bake as usual.
just before serving brush over with beaten
egg. sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and
brown for moment Meantime the
head and backbone should be covered
With cold water, and left 10 cook gently
for half hour. or till they fall apart:
strain off the water. and thlcken for a
sauce or save for soup next day.
INGREDIENTS
Stuning for small fish: one cup
, crumbs, cracker or stale bread one tea
spoonful salt. one teaspoonfrl pepper, mix
ana put in saucepan In which one fourth
cup butter has been melted. add one
tablespoonful lemon-juice or a small GU
cumber pickle, chopped fine and a speck
of powdered herbs. If liked. Moisten fur
Their With milk or water.
There is no room here to speak Of the
savory rechauffes in which every scrap
of cooked FISH may be turned TO good
account II may be made into croquettes
or fish balls. shaped In "A loaf. or tiny
moulds. scalloped in shells, or large
dish. or form a part Of an omelet. or APP
pear in a salad. ANNA BARROWS.
TOADSTOOLS AND MUSHROOMS.
Only One of the Latter Which Contains q