The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1894-11-11
THE DRESS OF THE DAY.
Winter Fashions Now Well Defined
Some Details.


Winter Fashions Now Well Defined
Some Details.
New York Sun.
Dress as it appears in mid-season between
summer and winter, is as incoherent as a
troubled dream. Furs and China silks
jostle each other as they pass. while hats
and bonnets of the most summary descrip-
ton walk side by side with the latest con-
lection of winter millinery. and the aston
ishing thing about It is that pride, not the
weather, apparently has exactly the same
effect on the comfort of the wearer. This
disposition to rush the season, to don winter
garments without regard to their need, is
a w-ell-recognized tendency of New York
fashions. and the result is a picturesque
confusion of purpose and materials, which
Is both interesting and amusing. Only
those who are the favored of fashion can
AFFORD TO anticipate the season with new
costumes, and 1t is a harmless bit of vanity
and no doubt a kindly consideration for
their less fortunate sisters, who are seek
Ing ideas for future use, which leads them
to display their gowns so early.
1t Is evident that fur garments, fur trim
mlnss' and veivets are to be a special feat
ure OF winter fashions, and these. combined
with dainty laces and airy chiffons, are ele-
CANT indeed. Sable and Persian lamb are es-
pecially popular for trimming, while chin
chilla and ermine are not far behind. Black
velvet costumes are bordered at the foot
with ermine and wide bretelles of the fur
adorn the bodice, which has a touch of
blue or cerise satin at the neck and belt.
Coats and capes Of sealskin and Persian
lamb are equally fashionable. but the latter
must have more OF a wavy MORE surface
than the close curl, once so much sought
AFTER, or 1t Is not quite up to date. Furs
are usually very becoming, but they must
be or the best quality and well made. Moth
ing can compare with the rich velvety soft
ness or sealskin, not even the rare sable,
which Is almost beyond price. Coats are
close fitting, with full skirts, which vary in
inches. The very latest sealskin sleeve is a
modern edition of the bishop variety, with
Sds the gathers at the wrist. where a mar
on all or the fur coats and high rolling coll
lars, which are a work OF art in graceful
curve and outline, make a most becoming
frame Tor the face, in capes and coats
alike The regulation mutton-leg sleeve,
larger In size, Is, however, the most popu-
worn both short and long. but they are
wider than they were last year and are fin
,sned with a multiplicity Of tails, with
For those who do not care for
fur, there is q black chiffon ruff
imported from Paris, plated so full
sary to give 1t the required size. 1t is tied
In front with black satin ribbon. French
m display an entire costume OF
sable, ermine and Persian lamb. Fur muHs
nave not grown In proportion to the sleeves,
were last year, while fancy NUTS of silk and
velvet, in the latest Partisan designs, are
simply immense. In the hand they look to be
silk is trimmed with fur and outstanding
bows of ribbon, and so frilled at the ends
that there is scarcely room for one hand in
Dresses for day wear continue to have
quite plain but very full skirts, so ex-
quisitely cut and sklllfully, hung. that the
the graceful folds. They fit so closely
around the hips that the seams are cut
with a curve from the waist to round out
the fullness below. Bodices entirely COW
cred with cream guipure are in evidence
THIS season, as they were last, with the
added extravaganza of a velvet founda ton.
periwlnkle has a plain, volumlnous skirt,
trimmed on either side of the front with
IS OF rose velvet, yelled with cream guipure
and edged with fur. The lower part of the
sleeve Is opened up to the elbow on the in
Black satlns are in great demand for
elderly ladies and young matrons, and
co1or tS Se s are VIEW veIvefs s W1tn a touch or
costumes. Chiffon. the color OF tangerines,
Is used very effectively on one gown; it
lOIlHS the collar Win a VIDE DOW at the
back, and a cascade ruche extends down
the front in the form of a bolero, with the
addition OF a wide gallon of jet and gold
sequinS. A white satin vest covered with
cream lace gives a very elegant air to a
more sombre gown.
Among the novelties is a black lace net
wide enough for a skirt, and kilt plated
with a close set row of jet beads down the
center OF each plat, while for bodices a
narrower net is used, with a strip Of beads
carried across at intervals. Some of the
bodice trimmings IN jet take the form of
huge bat wings which almost cover the
'front.', or the epaulets, which are made
without stiffening, and often united to
straps of Jet both back and front. Per-
pendicular bands Of jet make an effective
skirt trimming, put on at wide intervals
across the front from the hem to the knee,
with similar but shore r bands starting
from the waist. Buttons of the simple kind,
which may do service instead of hooks and
eyes, and buttons with entirely decorative
intentions are coming in again. Dainty
painted figures peep out from frames of
gold and silver, and large buttons com-
posed Of a network of steel, rhinestones.
and, in rare cases. of real diamonds set
in gold are seen. An imported gown of
navy blue canvas has small silver coin but
tons at the end Of narrow braid, put on
the skirt in horizontal lines of varying
lengths. Another gown of the same mate
rial Is trimmed with bands of black satin
and tiny silk buttons.