The Portland daily press., 1894-08-29
THE VALLEY OF THE LOUE.
Elwell Bicycle Party the First Ameri-
cans There.

III Tie EUge the CufaS-A Land VI
Wine and Cherries-A Peasants Home.
Belfast, Ire, Aug. 13.-The party
OF American wheelmen which
made the tour of Europe the pres
ent summer, had many delightful exper-
fences, not the least of which was their
passage over the Jura Mountains. On
their arrival at the city OF Bescancon
where are made four-fifths OF all the
watches manufactured IN France, they
were told that their intended route over
the mountains would be dangerous and
difficult on account of the sharp grades
on the Swiss side, and advised to go
through the valley of the Loue, (which"
said the landlord of the Grand Hotel du
magnificent. Bescancon lies at the foot
OF the Juras, and on the morning of
June 5, the nineteen Americans, acting
on the landlords advice, began their as
cent of the mountains. For two hours
they pushed their wheels up the wind
ing road, each turn revealing views Of
surprising beauty. We've reached the
top" said one of the party as, first in
line, he swung out OF pine forest and
saw fertile meadows stretching away to
the dark blue hills beyond. These hills
were the true Juras and were yet to be
conquered. For several miles the party
followed the level road, fancying that
they would soon climb the last range of
hills and be in Switzerland. But not
quite so soon. Another turn in the
road. and there, beautiful as a dream,
lay the valley of the Loue. 1t is not on
the ordinary lines of travel, here is no
getting through it save by diligence,
and only the natives and the French
commercial traveller pass between its
granite walls; yet more delightful
spot it would be difficult to imagine
The party stopped and gazed down into
it's dark green depths with delight.
It's the land of Beulah,n cried one, as
he nervously got out his camera with
the idea of securing the whole wonderful
panorama. But after various turnings
of the lens he gave up in despair. 7 be
valley is about onc-half mile in width
on each side rise almost perpendicular
cliffs a thousand feet high, clothed to
their SUBMITS with verdure, often with
vineyards. for in this sheltered spot the
summer sun lies warm and lovingly. AT
the bottom runs the Loue, on both sides
of which stretch fields of hay, where the
haymakers were busily at work. The
party soon begun their " ind ing descent,
and ere long were gliding over the
smooth road between rows of cherry
trees laden with their luscious fruit.
Never were seen finer cherries and in
such abundancei As it was impossi lie
to reach the Swiss side that Gay the
manager had announced that the party
would, stop over night at Ornans which
boosted the only hotel known to the
landlord at Bescancon. Anxious to see
what kind of resting place the Hotel
de France would affold the manager
hurried and finally reached the little
town of Ornans,- and found tbs hotel.
Such a dirty little place! and only four
bedsi He was wondering what he
should do, when French !" drummer
came around the corner, to whom he
told his troubles. This is no place to
stop" said the man of commerce go on
two kilometres to Mouthiers, and there
you'll find good cooking and good beds.
Don't worry you may rest on both ears
that what say is true.n
So a hastily scrubbed note was put in
to the hands of the dirty, but good ma
tured maid of the inn, and she was re-
quested to show it to each Der of
the party as he came along. 1t read as
follows: This hotel is no good. Ride
to Mouthiers, two kilas on. And this
she smilingly showed to each and all,
in the happy consciousness OF a good
deed done.
Mouthiers is one of the quaintest little
villages in the world. 1t begins at the
river and runs half way up the noun
tain side. All about are vineyards and.
cherry orchards. On both sides of the
valley rise up the granite barrier in bar
rem grandeur. But the hotel! 1t was
small, and the landlady was nearly par
alyzed at this descent of nineteen
wheelmen clamoring for food and rooms.
But she proved equal to the OCCASION
After the rooms in the hotel were ex-
hausted she called upon her neigh bors,
and the boys who were put out' got
the best rooms. Then was revealed the
wealth of the French peasantry. Fancy
picking your way through narrow al
leys, where piles of manure are much in
evidence, cropping in a dark passage for
the door, and then, just as you are thor
oughly Disguised, being shown into
great kitchen or Spick and span neatness
it's walls hung with brightly polished
copper cooking utensils, and a modern
range in the corner! You 40 through
this, up fight of stairs, and are given
cham per eighteen feet square, its floor
of polished oak, damask furniture, Brus-
sells carpets, lace curtains, mahogany
bedstead, surrounded by rich curtains,
and great carved oak presses worth
small fortune! A room fit for king, in
what from the outside looked like a
howell in a mountain village. And its
owner had cellar full of rare wine, and
treated his guests to champagne, +" for"
said he, you are the first Americans
ever in our village, and the occasion
must be honored." The landlady proved
wonderful cook. even for France; the
soup the mountain trout the filler de