davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1894-11-18

charming bonnet from Rebeux was OF
exquieitely fine black felt, and was
wreathed around the low, square crown
with ivy leaves and rosettes Of ivy-green
mirror velvet. A huge standing black
loop and ends of knife pleated chiffon
trimmed the hat at the left side. white
the straight brim was not faced, but
merely edged underneath with q fancy
satin cord. Still another new French
bonnet has q shirred crown and fuli
double brim OF black velvet. A soft
puff of knife pleated black chiffon sep
arates the two parts of the brim. The
brim is caught up on one side by grace
full cluster of black satin ribbon, and on
the other side by large cluster OF
crushed pink roses, in the center OF
which is huge ball of Strass diamonds
holding a black aigrette.
The above is from the New York Tri-
buue, which also says:
Some of the new hats are trimmed
with toned" rosettss, shaded from a
pale China pink through ak colors into
q deep Bordeaux red. Nearly ell the
new hats have slight face trimming
lifting the brim from the hair. This is
twist OF velvet or satin with few
rosettes or plume or roses. Pompone
of coque plumes are also used on eone OF
the new hats. There are wings shaded
from pale Vandyke brown or tan into
white, which make effective trimmings
for some hats of brown velvet The
new velvet is generally miroir, that is, 1t
has 8 distinct giace or satiny sheen on
the nap. A charming hat in Vandyke
brown and pink has soft crown OF
brown miroir velvet trimmed with
k,.-,. Il ,,.lr hu Ia
buckle OF steel in front, and finished
with plumes and fscs trimming OF
pink satin roeettes. The new steel
buckles are marvels OF art, and though
OF no precious metal often cost $5 each.
Some of the new bonnets and smaller
English hats, with straight projecting
brims, are trimmed simply with ro-
settles and black swallows, whose sharp
wings and tail feathers project out &C.
centrically on the sides and in every di-
recton like the quills of the fretful por-
cupine. Still other hats OF felt or the
glossy beaver, which is again imported,
are merely banded with folds OF black
satin ribbon and trimmed with three
rosettes. one of black satin, one of haw-
thorn or China pink velvet, and one on
the left side of creamy, knife.pleated
chiffon, holding q stiff black aigrette.
The sailor is still popular, made in
felt of two tones and elaborately
trimmed with tiny ostrich tips, set in
a regular row around the band and with
bows whenever there is room for them.
Sometimes they are mounted directly
on the middle of the crown; again they
are on the sides, one on each side.
Thus adorned they will be worn on the
dressiest occasions.
There are also immense hats of black
or Vandyke brown velvet. intended for
young ladies or for carriage wear. These
hats usually have fiat, straight brims
and peaked or low, square crowns. They
are trimmed with masses OF black ostrich
plumes Gas many as six plumes being
frequently used on one hat), bows of
poin, lace caught by diamond buckles or
buckles of steel, and long cravat bows Of
satin ribbon. These hats are copied dir
rectly from old portraits, from pictures
by Rembrandt of old Holland burghers.
The herald., 1894-11-18

Although the mercury rarely drops
low enough in California to demand the
wearing of fur to any great extent, the
fact that both furs and feathers are
vastly becoming. and the further fact
that they are excessively fashionable
will do much in adjusting individual
temperatures, and they will be used in
large quantities here this winter. Mar
ten. mink and Persian lamb, seal, sable,
and baby astrakhan. zypeline, and even
ermine all come in for their share OF at
tsntion.
Marten stands at the head for popu-
larity, as the best quality has go many
shades OF brown from cream to dark
tan. that if there is the least tint lett In
the complexion marten will bring it out
IL worn near the face, so says the san
Francisco Chronicle, and further 1t ls
much used for dress trimmings by 'peo-
ple who can afford 1t, but as it ls "a
ward 1t will not be common.
Seal is, as always, in high favor. The
furrisrs are using it a great deal this
winter, but not alone. 1t is combined
with all furs. Whether from novelty or
the actual combination of the colors it
is impossible to say, but the results are
invariably triumphs. A most tempting
creation was recently sent out by fur
rier of this city, combination OF seal
and stone marten.
The smsrtest capes are short, coming
TO q point in front and back, and only
two or three inches below the shoulders.
This particular garment was made OF
two ruff1es, one, the outer, was very full
and was of stone marten. and the other
was fastened to the big marten collar OF
seal.
The new neck ecarfs OF stone marten
consist of the skins of four animals, and
some of them hang several inches below
the waist line. They have one or two
heads for decorative purposes, according
to the purse OF the purchaser. Instead
of fastening the scarf about the neck by
means of rubber cord and button this
season, the mouth of the marten opens
and shuts by new arrangement. and
the scarf can thus be made to fit any
neck.
Persian lamb ia one of the smartest
The herald., 1894-11-18

Then. too. this style OF boa will not be
common, for the shop people are charg-
ing S25 each for them. Many purchas-
ers compromise and buy black feather
collars which give nearly the same ef-
feet and cost $40 or SIS less. Occasion.
ally these collars are OF the tiny tips in
black or colors which milliners use. and
they are seen also iE the edging for the
full and dainty shoulder capes of velvet.
Marabout, which is cross between
feather and fur, is also to be seen on a
great many coats and capes, and for car
riage or evening wear; a dark rich shade
of velvet made into a circular cape so
very full that frequent glimpses of the
lining may be seen Of some brilliantly
contrasting shade or color in satin and
and edged with marabout or ermine,
makes a very handsome, chic and appro.
PIRATE garment.
The muff is hardly more than name
here in 90 far as its real use is con-
cerned, but for last touch to care
fully considered costume it is indie
pensable. Tie old round muff is not in
fashion any more. the new and stylish
shape being fiat or of semi-circular
form, with bright silk Innings that show
conspicuously and mock muffs of vel
vet that are to match the short capes
are almost invariably ornamented with
The herald., 1894-11-18

evening gowns are now embelliehed
with the graceful tip as we'll So street
costumes.
For long time the black ostrich
feather boae OF the ward length have
been struggling for supremacy, but now
they are in high favor. They are liable
to continue the proper thing for quite a
while. becauee there ia nothing else for
the neck go becoming. and at the same
tine 50 becoming for Ell occasions.
The herald., 1894-11-18

from the spendid hats of those burghers
of Flanders W hose luxury in the fifteenth
century outrivaled that OF royalty.
There is probably nothing to which
six inches Of fur will give such dressy
effect as to hat. A bit OF mink, some
rosettes, violets, lace and a plume, ar.
ranged any way at all, can scarcely fall
to be ewagger, Miss DEBUTANTE.
The herald., 1894-11-18
A Child EDjOys

The pleasant flavor. gentle action and
soothing effects of Syrup of Figs, when
in need of laxative. and il the father
or mother be costive or bilious. the most
gratifying results follow it's use; so that
it is the best family remedy known. and
every family should have bottle on
hand
The herald., 1894-11-18

w. A. McG1ire, we'll known citizen
OF Mckay, Ohio. ia Of the opinion that
there ie nothing as good for children
troubled with colds or Group as Cbam-
berlain's Cough Remedy. He has used
it in his family for several years with
the beet results. and always keeps q
bottle of it in the house. After having
la grippe he was himeelf troubled with
q severe cough. He used other RENE
dies without benefit and then concluded
to try the chidren's medicine. and to
his delight it soon effected permanent
cure. 30 cent bottles for sale by OFF q
Vaughn. Fourth and Spring; G. +.
Heinzsman 30 N. Main. druggists.
The herald., 1894-11-18

II you have poor appetite, bad tss.o.
foul breath. use Kamame Bitters. 90
cents per bottle.
The herald., 1894-11-18

Kregelo & Bresoe, funerai directors,
Broadway and Sixth street. Tel. 243.
The herald., 1894-11-18
BUNCO MAN RIES.

Loves.
Sheriff James W oolery, of King county.
Wash, has arrived in the city and will
take Matt Ries. the bunco man, back to
Seattle early next week.
Sheriff Woolery tells some new and
interesting facts regarding Ries and his
work in the north, from which it appears
that Detective Goodman made no ordi-
nary capture when he brought in Mat
thew Riee.
For years Ries had been operating in
Washington as bunco sseerer and con-
fidence man, and with unverying sue
cess.
On January %. 1892. Ries, in partner.
ship with Thomas Ramchman, who was
known as Japanese Tom," buncoed an
Oregon farmer out OF large sum OF
money in card game on board the
sound steamer Sehome.
They were captured, tried and con.
yicted, and released on appeal bonds of
$1,000 each. Both skipped out before
the supreme court decided the case.
Japanese Tom is now in the City Of
Mexico, and cannot be brought back,
but Ries is evidently in for it.
Nj. Gottstein, one OF his bondsmen,
was the man VI ho seemed the most in.
terested in hia capture, and Chief OF
Police Rogers OF Seattle had charge of
the case.
Sheriff Woolery also clears up the
mystery OF the woman who claims to
be Ries' sister. and who was with him
when be was captured. She has Wis.
tied the jail several times since, always
claiming to be Ries' sster. She is a
variety actress named Kittie Edmunds,
end she it WAS who enticed Ries to Los
Angeles.
The herald., 1894-11-18

For q good table wine order our Sonoma
Ziniandel at SOC per gal. I. Vache & Co.,
Commercial and Alameda. Tel. 309.
The herald., 1894-11-18

If you have rooms to rent try the
Herald want columns" They bring
results.
The herald., 1894-11-18

Ds. Parker. sent.t. 1891 West First street
The herald., 1894-11-18

Vigil paper, hung. Toe roll. 32s S. spr.rs.
The morning call., 1894-09-09

RiehhOfen, and bad thus become so thoroughly
acquainted with The country and Its people
that, on his return 10 the coast, he had been
offered by the Chinese Cove Tnment the position
OF CuSI ON Mandarin at Su-chou. a position Just
then esta bli>hed for the levying Of duty on lhe
Russian goods passing in through the north
west provinces; that he had adopted the Chi
neSe dress and mode of living. and had even
married, many years ago, a Chinese girl edu-
Gated at the Catholic schools in TIentsIn.
I'VE were so absorbed in this romantic his
tory that we scarcely noticed the crowds that
lined he streets leading 10 the Ling Darin's
palace until the boom of a cannon recalled us
TO our situation. From the smile on the Jolly
face beside Us we knew at once whom we could
hold responsible for this reception. The palace
gates were thrown open by a host OF servants
and in our rags aud tatters we rolled al once
from the haTdships OF the lnhOspltable desert
into he lap OF luxury.
"a surplus is not always so easily dsposed
OF as dehcit-at least we were inclined 10
think so IN tile case of our Suchou diet. The
Ling Darin's table, which, for the exceptional
occasion. was set IN the foreign fashion with
knives and forks. fairly teemed with abundance
ana variety. IheIe was even butter, made
from the milk OF The 1ibetan yak, and con-
densed milk for our coffee, the first we had
tasted since leaving Turkey, more than year
before. The Ling DARN informed us that can
OF this milk which lie once presented 10 Chi
nese friends had been mistaken for face cos
lily. The Ling Darin's wife we found an excel.
lent and even artistic cook. while his buXOm
twin daughters could read ana wrte their own
lauguage-a rare accomplishment for Chinese
wOman."-ETOm "Across Asia on a Bicycle" In
The Century,
The morning call., 1894-09-09

Pyrmont in order to prepare the marriage
contract, Princess Emma conversed with
him in the Dutch language.
Before King Williams last illness spoke
TO his Majesty one day Of the possibility
that some time Germany might attempt
an invasion. In that case there would
be no more dykes in Holland" said the
King. And Queen Emma has become so
thoroughly Identified with the interests OF
Holland that | am sure she would forget
her German origin in time Of threatened
danger and exclaim: Rather than Weld,
there shall be no more dykes in the Meth
erlands."
When in 1879 William III brought his
bride to The Hague. she was simUle as a
child, looked upon the palace as a marvel,
and danced and laughed, seemingly un-
conscious that her cOurtiers were criticiZ-
Ing her every gesture. And | am told that
the King led his young wife to the p0r-
trait OF bis mother. the proud Anna-Pau
iowna, and said: "She never danced:
queen should never laugh in public"
NOW, IN all Europe, there is not more
dignified Queen than Emma Of the Meth
erlands. When she gives audience, her
Majesty is most imposing in appearance,
though her manner is always gracious and
charming. With equal facility she speaks
English and French. aud when there is
reception at the palace the Queen walks
about the salons. greeting all those who
have been presented, and shaking hands
with those whom she knows WELL
Queen Emma will be Regent of the king
dom until August 81, 1897, when Queen
Wilhelmina will attain her majority, and
be crowned Queen of the Netherlands.
BARONESS ALTHEA SALVADOR.
The morning call., 1894-09-09

them IN this particular. The latest device,
however, came in with the advent of a
consignment of jumping beans, or devils
beans. as they are sometimes called.
These vegetable curiositieS come from
Mexico. They are very lively little things,
little more than half an inch in length,
which, when placed on a plane surface,
jump about or roll over in most erratlc
fashion. Their antics, which seem very
mysterious to the uninformed observer,
are occasioned by the presence in the in
terror OF the bean of a nervous little worm
which is constantly kicking up. The little
hole Is made in the bean he will pro-
ceed to seal it up and continue his high
kicking performance. The exeEtlons OF
the worm cause the irregnlar-shaped Dean
to travel about in erratic fashion, ana this
fact is taken advantage of by the gam
blers.
A circle about three inches in circum-
ference IS drawn on piece OF paper, wnleh
is laid on an office desk. This circle is
divided into segments corresponding to
the number of persons deslrons OIL playing
the game. each section being mum 0ered.
When the pool is made up-le may he by
contributions of from cents TO $4,000,
according to the "sporiiDess" OF the play
ers-the bean is placed IN the center OF
the circle and the players sit and watch is
as it bitches this way or jumps that until
II finally clears the circle. The man who
has the number corresponding to the seq
mani of the circle where the bean crossed
the line wins the pool Then a new pool
is made and the process is epeated.-NeW
Vnrk Sun.
The morning call., 1894-09-09

Hague, was once free for the people. In
1903 the land was bought by Prince Fred
erlck Henry and arranged to please his
mother, and since then it is called Prin-
cesse- Tuin, or garden of the Princess. A
fav0rite resort of Queen Wilhelmina Is the
garden Of the Huis ten Bosch. or House in
the Wood, for there is a pond on which
her Majesty skates during the winter. The
House In the Wood is about mile from
The Hague, and was bnilt by Amelia de
Sohns IN memory of her husband, Prince
Frederick Henry.
In my opinion The House in the Wood Is
the most beautiful royal residence in the
Netherlands, bat it has not been occupied
since the death Of Queen Sophie, first wife
of the late King One of the most curious
rooms is the Orange Zdal, or Orange Hall,
an octagOnai apartment, the walls and
ceiling of which are decorated with paint
lngs representing the life of Prince Fred
erick Henry. The paintings are signed
Zoutman, JordaeDs, HOndburst; in fact.
ny all the great masters between Rubens
aud Van Dyck. The dining-room, with bas-
reliefs by De Wit, its blue hangings and
blue and white furniture, is eXquisltely
beautiful. The Chinese and Japanese
rooms are most characteristic in decora-
tions, and Americans are always delighted
10 see the portrait of Motley. hung con-
spicuously in the Chinese salon.
When the Princess Emma of Waldeck
PyrmOnt was the bride-elect of King
William III man of learning was sent &c
Pyrmont TO teach her the Dutch language
and The political. literary and artistic his
tory of the country. But" said the Prin-
cess, ''as | have only three months before
me, it is best to devote that short time to
the study of the language. When L reach
The Hague l shall have the leisure neces-
sary for the study of politics. literature
and art" And when. three months later,
the Minister of Foreign Affairs went to
The morning call., 1894-09-09

with pigeons. and the birds accept food
from 10 hand but hers. Saving and knit
ting the little Queen learns from her
mother. and the Regent has had to show
much patience In teaching these useful
arts to very unwilling pupil.
The reports concerning the ill-health of
Queen Wllhelmina are without founda-
Ll0n. She is very nervous child, and for
that reason she lives a life as quiet and
secluded as possible. Der ionrnev to
Switzerland last month has been of great
benefit. and the tranquility of life at the
castle of Loo will ada to the young
Queens strength.
When at the Hague and Amsterdam
the Queen and Regent drive through the
streets each DAY. To The cheers and saIu-
tations of the people Queen Emma always
replies with stately bend of her head.
but the little WilheImna smiles and
answers each bow by graceful inclina-
tion. If She thinks that one person has
been forgotten she turns in the carriage
and rewards the neglected one with a bow
for himself alone.
When Wilhelmina passes in the streets
the people eXclaim: is she not beanti-
full? She is like the Orange family. and.
like members of that house, she is intelli-
gent and good"
The hone of their Majesties at The
Hague is the Noordeinde Palace. The ex
terror of the palace is not very imposing.
1t is a large building, with two advanced
wings, supported by high arches. There
are large and small bathrooms and several
good-sized drawing-ronms. The splendid
garden, situated behind the palace and ex-
tending 10 the canal that surrounds The
The morning call., 1894-09-09
Oddities.

Society at Bar Harbor does not now differ In
any particularly salient manner from good
society anywhere else. except that 1t is rather
more cosmopolitan. When the guests at
small dinner or luncheon may have come
from New York. Philadelphia, Boston, Wash
ington and Chicago, it Is impossible that the
conversation should fall into that jargon of a
clique which often makes the talk OF the most
centralized society, like that OF Paris or Lon
don, seem narrow and provincial to the unfor-
tunate outsider. One amusing survival of the
simpler early days Is the habit of going OUT In
the evening In uncovered traps. There are a
few private brOUghams, but II you are
dining out, and happen TO reach the
house as lady drives up, the chances are
that you will help her TO alight from an
open blackboard, her smart French frock
shTouded In a long cloak and her head moro or
less muffied and prote cted. One or two of the
livery stables have hacks which must have
been very old when they were brought from
Bangor, and which now hold together by al.
them could never be sent ont vii hOut Two men
on the box, not indeed for the sake of lending
the turnout any fictitious splendor but be-
cause one OF them had 10 'mind the door,"
which was broken. and could neither be shut
nor ODened by any one inside. IL Two or thee
entertainments take place on the same night
there Is teephoning loud and long for those
antedl!uyian vehicles. as the only other alter
native Is 10 take Il sort OF carryall with leather
side curtains which have treacheTOuS way of
blowing open and dropping small wateTspours
down the back of ones neck.-F. Marion
Crawford In ScrlbDer's.
The morning call., 1894-09-09
THE MAGAZINES.
Gems From the Periodicals for
September.
Doctors Fees Paid bv ROYALTY.

Some OF the fees by royalty have been emf
nenty beftting the giyer and taker. The late
physician OF the Prince OF Wales received for
four weeks attendance at SIndrlngham, dur
ing the illness Of his distinguished patient: from
typhoid fever, not only the usual lille of barO-
net, but fee Of 100000. Sir Morel Macken-
zle is reported 10 have received more ihan
twice this amount for his treatment OF The late
Emperor Frederick OF Germany. Dimsdale. a
prominent practitioner of London in 1862, was
Empress Catherine II. for which he received
not only the equivalent Of $50, 200, but an ex-
ira $4,000 for travelling expenses, the title OF
baron ana a life pension OF S2500 yearly His
Royal HighneSs the Nawab OF Rampur
India, recently paid an English army
surgeon 450,000 for three moDths'
occasional attendance in an ordinary attack Of
rheumatism. The late Sir Andrew Clark. Glad
stones physician, often charged $1,000 for run
ming down from London 10 Liverpool, and The
late Sir William Gull commanded equally nigh
rates for similar services. A Russian surgeon
charged wealthy notable of Odessa $4,000 for
opening an abSceSS OF the hip, the lime occupied
being about ten minutes. And, better still
while on the same visit, lie took q chance shot
simple operation for which he received nearly
$500 more, certainly enough extra TO pay the
fee of the railway porter on his hOmeward
journey.
But IN all this it is not so much the doing as
the knowing how 10 do. When the French
worth OF paint on Rosa BOnheurs "HOrse
FAIR he was incapable of valuIng high art.
Five dollars for 3mputating the Leg" said
the surgeon, land nine hundred and ninety
five for knowing how" and the victim was
thankful accordlngy.-Dr. George +. Shrady
in Forum