New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-11-18
COOKING TENI.SON.
NOTES OF AN EPICURE.

The cooking OF venison is a matter on which
housckeopers disagree. Tho true cpicure wishes
his venison rarc-as rare as roast beef-but few
ladies can eat tho roast when the blood follows
the knife in carving. As 10 should. 30 the royal
meat. 10y a compromise is ruined for the palate OF
one and hardly made III for the palat" of IN"
other.
great deal OF the vcnison that comes 20 orr
Ncw-York market is not properly huns. u b. nor
uncommon thing for sportsm'n in the Norih
Woods 10 bring down noble buck and have u Guy
up AT once for Immediate use. ola Engsh an
thoritics consider buck vcnison the best choice
from midsummer till Noycmhcr. ami after that
the doe vcnison. Ncnisou shout. bee hrne in o."
open air iu freezing weather. or in (rig'rator
in milder weather FOR 90 least four week. after b.
has been killed By this time the muscles have
become thoroughly relaxed AMI tender brat the
meat should have taken on no high flavor. h o.
has beer kept the proper temperature Tho
meat Is better Il IL does not frcez. "s1lI through.
but hangs in tn" open air. In he refrigerator
room. there is danger of its freezing. but meat
hung thls close atmosphere is never quite equal
10 that hung In the open air. The mat is. Of
course. hung ln the quarter or haf like b.cf
Thc leg ami the saddle % Ncnls'n are The fiyor.t.
roasting pieces The steaks ~ v'nison AZ" car
from the Lex ike veal outlets. Tho tcnlefcs; portion
Of tho leg which corresponds g, the cushion or noiN
in the veal ana tho top az the round ln the beef
WA called "the Aidermans wax" by oA English
oks. but it f. bat little known @ the New-Nork
markctcrs. who are not generally vcn.son-eif'rs
French cooks use the same term for ii a. f'r veal
the no.X II Is quite easily distinguished because D.
T.. the fines, ana ,cnlerc.t ~ the thre. different
layers Of muscle In the lex. II yon purchase a 'uu
I'D, ~ ,.,is, have fhi. t,rfiou removed FOR s,.,k.
and the remainder 90 the ics for roasting The
steaks viii Doc sufficient ior one dinner ana ih'
rest Of the leg Doe m1r.nairi as an DOL r''sis
should be that &c. 10 should Doe rubbed thoroughly
vim q e,I Of VINEGAR and a half a tcaspoon'ul Of
,ffI. q AL md no flfl
,, n 49,. .t ,,a, h hmm, f,r ,vyn
spo"nfu!s 81 owe OH LEI '"' "'"' W '"- iva wv
days in the marnldc Then wipe h. of. The best
c,oks rigb,lv object - nut 50 delicate a meat "a
vcnlson in water Therefore they wash it on thor
ourhly win cloth dipped in water. ana wipe t
"'f' - o. "'" n,, ,,,,, -, and
Is .ao'p I w. ,on +, lard il th'raurh and roast
f., r,ril1v The hest cooks invariably wrap their
venison In layer Of pasic made Of quart Of -four
and a pint Of cold water for eood-sizrl leg the
IN, in. The meat should have been drcdged with
~" ,, ,.,..r and signify lr.da.I with nour be-
i. a., o,,,,...l .r,unl II and l,ri.d with
three row. II Iarl,Ons Il should roast about an
h,ur i'm IN. f,.ta if il b. 4 larsr Log say 81 niic'n
pounds. though il the "''N IA, ''.I .'
not be hkoy 10 "'E" o''' ~" ' .
,r ,,,,' ,hr,.-,,,ar,ers of an hour Il should be
'"''' nan ,.,,., .., turned tvo or three.
bast"d every niiecn minutes "li '"'"'' wv ~ ~
times At IN, end Of the time given take the vcni3'n
IA, of ne
our OF the oven remove ''''F va" ,,
which easily cracks or pni It hi'k III '''' "''!'
t nam fire. bos,inc IL with a little clear butler
plhs pan, mo- ''.'N , ,,,r strain the
ana df'1tl"E WIN '''. ''.' aar ,,,o tho h,t-
drippings from the iirst r"aSilng-lah n'" u' "''-
tom Of the second 1t is not necessary. however t.
'" - ~, ,ri,,t,,... If I'm. first nan can b..
use TWO pans. l"' "' iPi'''-' 49, 80 ~ 49,. $500.
strained into bowl or TN, All Vcs'ls'S ~ "'' l'
.., ,.,. from, II the meat returned To b. and the
~ 80 1,,a tho ho,tor, The meat must now
drlpplngs poured vi 'h' ""'''''' 49, &c.,,
r,,st hy nuick FIRE ior thirty minutes longer DeihS
s.,,.,,,,. h,s.cd \, the end of this time IT vii.
~ c,,ndi,iou rare and uicy but under
1' ~ pm . n.eIass Of Madeira In the drip
"V n in The nan after they have been thoroughly
piIHS ~ "a, cum of stock and let this mixture
,nn ,n rolling p,ni over the stove and strain
toii,u ,b. rnast Serve il with accompan-
ID ~ ~ bl,ck-currani Jelly In the mould. OF us
,' ,rodern nne of A rrd-currant Jelly sauce Inc
nloir ra" ~ make This sauce Is t. boil glass
Ss,iirs mar, v,inc add a half pint lumber on red
rrront iclly melted and half cup Of the richest
n, nc oter The Grc stirring them thoroughly ana
ON ~ ,ho lance 4, done with roast Venson II ~
pemD ii IN ~ 6oat. with venison. cooked In chatting
sf qh r utb yenison steaks Is simply laid In