The evening world., 1894-03-09

to be taken, in II she is slight, or taken
| out altogether and bigger ones substl.
tuted II she IL Il full figure. And after
side cores. back and bust are correct
incnr stomach. &c, n necsssitatins 81 SC
many alterations as to spoil the sale OF
the garment
After the corset Is ntted to the model
two Other girls of the same waist meas.
ure are selected and the corset is tried
on each to prove the NJ. II may be that
the model Is an unusual figure. in which
Instance II Is discarded altogether, and
another girl poses. Before a model cor
set is accepted It must be adaptable To
the needs and comfort of at least three
figures. what are called extreme ng-
ures-that Is, very thin or very large
are not ntted
To get a true figure OF any size is ex-
hundred is perfectly, formed. Either one
hip is lower than the other, one breast
Is larger than the other, the side lines
are unequal or the shoulders don't bal
ance. These defects are only detected
IN careful measurements, but slight
deviation may spoil the lit of an other
wise valuable lot Of goods.
The French figure H. the model de-
manded by American women. and con-
sequently those girls are selected who
come nearest to the French fgure. To
French would not do, because the two
types are az different in figure as in
temperament The American woman. as
n matter OF fact. has no shape: she is
or any shape fashion has mind to
make her; II Is only n question of time
and tightening. She Is growing Frenchy
because she prefers that sty.e to the
English or Austrian; few years ago
through the bust and thirteen inches
larger round the hips than round the
waist: now the bust measure Is fifteen
inches and the hip seventeen inches
g member of the firm who attends to
the designing Is as close student OF the
Paris fashions as any butterfly in Vanity
Fair. He subscribes for a dozen or more
French, German and American publica-
tions devoted to dress and keeps a scrap
album In which cuts OF jackets, bodices
and three-quarter figures are carefully
pasted. He buys photographs Of all the
society beauties and popular actresses
and singers. as fast as they appear and
all tnese-with their variations of waist.
shoulder and hip draperies-are sugges-
tive OF the requirements of the corset
In mode.
" -. bodices are made long wa listed,
naturally long-waisted corset Ia needed
the corset is made on similar lines. Cor
sets for evening dress are shorter than
those intended for walking costumes
both in waist and length. When dress
the, manufacture OF fine coutille, satin
and gauze begins and the corsets are on
sale In the retail market before the
dresses are made. There Is no waiting
FOR the new fashions ito take" Delays
are dangerous.
People eat their breakfast from force
OF habit rather than a sense of hunger.
and they accept the new styles in the
same way The day the novelties are
received, whether In the form of models
patterns or illustrations. the corset de.
signer knows what is needed, and he fills
the want before it Is felt.
For the last six years the waist OF the
fashionable woman has been forcibly
lengthening. Now there is a halt. The
tendency is towards perfection OF figure
with the so-callcd perfect figure Of the
French grande dame as a model. The
French woman of fashion Is remarkably
broad In the bust and hips. and attract.
lively small in the waist She Is born so
And the American woman Is growing
more like her all the time.
The best selling corset in trade Is q
No. % waist, SO bust and 3S hin. in black
jeans. NELL NELSON