The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1894-01-05

3yS&s xl9s4t NsSkss slrzE GlT5sj q aEzts
green satin ribbo0 ss"n nat aIouad the
skirt-two high up and two near the
bottom. The sleeves We're of pink surah,
and the double puffs reached only TO the
elbow. Above the sleeves were caps of
lace. Across the bust was drawn fold
of pink surah to point in front, and
there held with a bow of pink ribbon
with long ends This is sop to Cere-
bus, and the floating ribbon gives the
needed touch, and beholdl a novel tea
gown When this dress is donned, all
the young lady's rivals can sit about or
stand in graceful attitudes and proceed
TO despise her with irnmeasurable scorn
in their eyes, but with smiles ON their
lips.
The day of plain skirts seems to be on
the wane, for the determined effort of
some designers to introduce drapery, or
at least combinations, is beginning to be
felt. We find skrts Sut IN slashes, IL
points and sca1lops over an underskirt
of some contrasting color or, at least,
material. There are many trains where
the front of the skirt is of velvet and
the back of silk, and vice versa. The
rich velvets of the season lend themselves
admirably to the making of heavy trains,
but they would be better employed ct
the back than the front of the skirt
Therefore the most of the gowns with
the heavy velvet trains have the fronts
of silk or satin.
/ saw one gown for young lady,
though there was no train, made in this
way. The back of the skirt was of SUI
perb velvet brocade, brown on maize
satin. The front breadth was of maize
satin with four rows of white lace inser-
ton and fastened with three great bows
Of shaded maize and brown ribbon. The
laxgc pulled sleoroS vaZo OF eatin a. well
~ tho knhy rzsasA ThaCe Wa q velvet
br0ca1e figaro with a spring collar,
which took the form of bertha in the
back, below the fall of lace. A band of
insertion formed the wide belt and an
other was laid around the neck. The
style of the day is maintained, but the
monotons of roundabout trimming is
broken, and the gown is pretty and girl
ish, while being of the most expensive
materials. 1t Is questionable taste, how
ever, to dress young unmarried women
in such rich material. 1t leaves nothing
for them IS a recompense for fading
beauty, with advancing age, and really
Is not as becoming as simpler materials;
but as long Us such things cost more
than the light and filmy textures girls
rill hare them - tksss.
This winter, now advaHeiSg rapidly,
we'll ceo more velvss worn as gowns snd
full costumes than there has been foI
thirty years. This Is due 20 two reasons.
The velvets came in naturally with the
present styles and seem to belong to
them by right. Next, importers loaded
themselves with velvets and yelutina,
and then hard times came on, which
forced the importers to sell their wares
at scarce the cost of importation, and
that put these ideal goods within the
reach of every one. Now capes and
cioaks are made of it-velutina prefera-
bly,, unless one can afford the best silk vel
vet. The rich corded and shotted effects
are almost wonderful, and the two toned
styles are beautiful.
=. Some Of them break into four and five
shades of the two contrasting colors, and
yet if you examine closely You will find
that there are but two colors, one shade
Of each. Cardinal and blue give purple
affscts 8 well a. the two coiors named
A - risoA- The cheaper grader Of
silk faced velvet do not produce the
right effect. 1t is somehow lacking in
the heavy fold. The new velutinas are
thick and fold In rich round folds that
would delight an artist. There were one
pattern of soft moss green over shell
pink and another of the same green over
salmon, and words cannot tell how
handsomely it made up in deep mantle
lined with satin and trimmed with fur.
Another had dark green surface shotted
with cardinal. Another was blue and
cold. ana in fact the line is as complete
a. tbe LIONS velvet, which IT resemh-e-i
closely The ri;.;sAd valve's and =. -.