The Coconino weekly sun., 1894-05-24
KATE GARDNER'S CHAT.
Prevailing Styles Arc Marked by
 Neatness and Newness.
In Chicago the Blouse Retains It's Popu- lar Understanding New in Trimmings for Waists and Skirts--How to
 Display Taste In Dress.
Special Chicago Letter.l

Special Chicago Letterl
 The shops are beginning to assume very summer-lilSe appearance. The show windows are marvels of beauty, and the counters are loaded with beau tiful stuffs.
 The gowns and wraps are handsome and chic to degree, while the hats and bonnets have the perennial charm of novelty that few women have the strength of mind to resist. And if in these days she who under ordinary cir cumstances is known to be cheerful and sunny of disposition is depressed, her condition of mind may safely be attributed to clothes. If she is heard to declare life not worth living the reason is not far to seek. It will be found either at the milliner's or the importers, lurking in the flowers of a French bonnet or the folds of Worth gown, the prices of which are in excess of her pocketbook. If she only would which she will not do, however turn her thoughts in the direction of articles of apparel that lie within her means she could find much to solace herself, for there never was time like the present, when pretty ma terials were so inexpensive and good results so easily attainable by the "home" dressmaxer. One reason for this lies in the fact that lace and rib bon are used so very extensively as trimming, whether the gown be of wool or cotton. Another is that the prevailing modes for these dresses arc so very simple that they are easy to copy, and allow one much latitude for individual taste. The skirts are plain, the waist laid in plaits and garnitured with lace, and often finished by band of folded belvet or watered ribbon at the neck, and another to correspond at the waist. But it is, after all, import ed novelties women like to see and have described to them, that they may thereby gain new ideas. The struggle with the dressmaker comes later on.
 An evening dress that Chicago dressmaller is showing among her i'm ported models is a gown of white crepon with the skirt set into plaits and trimmed half way down, the front "AJll Ol D4dCh olIlL "lbl steel passementerie and ecru lace. The bodice of white silk has deep bib of pale pink chiffon bordered with band of the lace, while over the shoulders black ribbons outlined with the pas sementerie appear again, and the full sleeves are lined with pink which shimmers softly through the folds of white crepon.
 Another has a plain skirt of black satin with bodice of cream colored lace. Not specially new combination, but its chaym lies in it's elegant simplicity. The sleeves are of lace and q deep square collar of black satin outlines the shoulders, while at one corner of this is a large bunch of pink roses and heliotrope French flowers of wonderful beauty, if not of fragrance.
 A smart street costume, which pleased me much, was of prune col orcd cloth, the bodice in coat shape and lined throughout with silk had a cape and revers of biscuit-colored cloth. At the neck is to be worn the latest novelty in cravats, which takes the form of double band of ribbon tying at either side in bow setting upwards. These new cravats, by the way, are of the inevitable watered ribbon, the great popularity of which shows no immediate sign of decreas- ing.
 A careful inspection of the costumes of this importer, as well as of several others I visited discloses the fact that Dame Fashion proposes: that all our gowns thls year shall be decked with butter-colored lace combined with passementerie; that colored velvet bands shall obtain to vast extent; also that sleeves must not diminish in size and are to be wired at the top to give them the desired "spread;" that the moire ribbon bow is to hang from every neck, and lastly that colored pearls, iridescent beads and silk em- broideries shall be used with a lavish hand She is a liberal woman, this Fashion of ours, with Io thoughts of banking accounts to stay her desires. Nothing is too eXtravagant to excite her wishes, ,and, once excited, they must be gratified.
 The skirt and coat costume is very much in evidence these days and the covert coating frocks may be counted by the dozen. In light and dark fawn, with coats made exactly like gentle mans morning coat, and waistcoat to match, they are to be met at every turn. They are jaunvy looking when seen in the shops, but I have yet to see the first one worn that fits and