The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1894-09-23

finishes up with simply awful dragging
toot. But the poor as we'll as the elite OF
the city enjoy themselves immensely, walk
ing IN massed groups around the plaza hour
after hour. Nothing can be more pictur-
eSque. Senoritas with 0uenas, senoras,
boys of all sizes and ages with tremendous
tall hats turned uD behind while standing
ont 10 front. all veritably crowd each otler
like The sOrte of the chOruses in the opera
Carmen. but much more natural and
easy than they. Tue small children even
are not absent, and one little yOuDgSter o.
perhaps years, with his tremendous hat.
resembling real toadstool, waddles along,
alone and dignifed, jnst as if be was direc-
tor of the wh, L.. There is no icecream
and no beer and. strange TO say, no mes
Cal or aguardieDte and consequently no
drunken brawls. But there are fans and
mantillas and much filtration is going Oh,
and every one ENJOYS himself in a way un-
known and impossible in our foggy and
windy evenings at the bay.
The best ana most pleasant wav to live
ID all Spanish American countries is TO
keep house, and to avoid The hotels and
posadas as much as possible. Now and
then, OF course, pleasant hOstelry may
be found, but they belong to the eXcep-
tional few. Modern comforts are un-
known; even the most simple and desir-
able ones are frequently wanting. There
is no water in the houses aud no stoves.
The empty waier-barrels are pulled down
TO the stream and there filled with water
aud dragged back again, the end OF rope
being attarhed 10 the center of the barrel
head at each end, thus causing the barrel
TO roll. That such a slow and labOrious
way cannot be conducive to very grea
cleanliness is evident, and although the
water is plentiful in the streams and of
very good quality, IL is always scarce In
| the house. II is simply hard to get.
A cook can be had fer SO month and
her board, but we prefer to pay ours lit
more and let her board herself. But what
cooking can be expected of an untaugbt
girl. who has never seen ANYTHING else
| than beans, carue SEGA and tUrtillas. and
whose only experience is with open fire.
| places devoid of chimneys, where the
smoke always fils The room, if not the
whole house. and where the wind rushes
! through every room and around every cor
ner as ii we were on the pinnacle OF Pixies
| Peak instead of in the quiet valley OF San
Jose del CabO. Iron stoves are entirely
unknown. and if brought here il would
take years tor native cook TO learn how
10 use them.
There are no labor-Saving machines of
any kind, not even coffee-mills and wag-
ons, but this Inconvenience is more than
Offset by the Increased band labor gwen TO
every one. Everybod has some work and
enough TO eat, and all seem happy There
are no lCdHpS anywhere anu none cOul1
1--we % a country like this, where one place
is as good as any other. The most unfor-
tunate man in town is the singh prisoner
who is daily walked no and down the hills
in the lauja bile pursuit OF composing" the
streets. The composition consists in pick
ing between the stones with crow bar,
| leaving 1t to the rain TO DO the rest. VINO
Is The most unfortunate. the prisoner or
he single policeman. who is also Chief of
2 Ice, | canno! find out The prisoner
stole pistol and will now be composing
{ the streets Tor whole year with the pay
of cents dav, having 10 board himself.
The SIT gle policeman who follows him
| everywhere and who sees to ii that he does
not run away generally lies stretched out
on the sidewalk sleeping and sn oring, with
A tremendous revolver as pillow. He gets
$40 per month, together with the honor
tn"t goes with the position.
In lew days j expect to make a longer
trip up the valley and to the Sierra. and