Birmingham age-herald., 1894-10-28


 those who string their diamonds on wires.
 Rich long Prince Albert coats arc made of seal which is even more popular than ever Short 1aring capes arc made of it and jackets. Fine seal is rare this season, but for beauty and becomingness it has no equal.
 Then there is the marten, almost as handsome as sable, and no end to differ ent fancies in black Persian. There arc three-quarter coats buttoned down in sim gle breasted ard double breasted style, with enormous directoire and incroyable collars and revers, with gigot sleeves, as perfectly draped as if made of cloth. But tons are used on these, instead of loops or fancy agraffes.
 There are dozens of fancies and designs in military capes or mantles, quite full, some plain save for the collar and some having f1uted collarette with a stole ar engagement of some thick fluffy fur like black bear. There are capes of different styles of moire astrakhan lined with si- berian squirrel or lined with satin rides cent silk or rich brocade.
 The victorine is the novelty of the sea- son and is to wear over thick and warm suits. It consists of a very full cape some- times reaching only half way to the waist,
 
 reaching to the bottom of the dress. There is always a high, large collar well up around tho ears and back of the neck. This collar varies in shape and is all that distinguishes the victorine of today from those of three or four generations ago. There is generally huff to match quito 15 inches long, good comfortable and roomy muff big enough to hold the results of half days shopping. The black bear victorines are handsomer than any others, l think.
 There is long coat shown made of thick cheviot or other shaggy wool, and this is Tapped to the left side and slightly draped across the front, just enough to break the straight lines from shoulder to the foot of tho skirt, and these broken lines are from bust to waist line and possibly Q little be- low. There is an enormous collar made of black bearskin worn surplce fashion and fastening at the left side. The sleeves are sometimes gigot and sometimes bishop. The rich elegance of this style of garment can scarcely be described. A huff of the same fur should go with this The collar is simple curved rolling shape, but reaches from the ears to the outer line of the shoulders and covers the bust. The coat is quite plain in all other respects but is warmly lined, sometimes fur lined
 Tho general tendency of the new fur garments for more ordinary wear has been toward coat effects. The Prince Albert is sometimes almost to the bottom of the skirt, and again it reaches scarcely to the knees. It fits the figure snugly. This is rarely made in anything except seal moire, astrakhan and Persian, and it has always fiat collar and revers and buttons. The jackets are snug fitting and arc long or short in the skirts as may be, so as to give large selection to choose from. Several of the jackets have very short and full skirts, sprung like cloth or f1uted in godet plaits.. Some have the revers and storm collar of some other and contrasting fur One most stylish jacket of Persian was cut away in front and Tapped diagonally across the bust and from there turned back a large incroyable revers. The high collar turned over just as deep as it was high. The skirt was sprung very full and the sleeves gigot. The whole jacket was re- markedly stylish and smart.
 I saw two or three mantles with full cape, opening over vest front of the fur. One had plaited collar which extended in revers down to the bottom. There was pointed storm collar
 For young ladies there is an infinite variety of small pointed collars, all f1uted sprung or plaited and of many kinds of fur, but mostly Persian. For them also are piles of fur neck scarfs and boas The boas are long and large The scarfs are short, but much thicker than ever be- fore. Some have heads and tails, but some are round at the ends. These are of bear plucked raccoon, few of plucked beaver and sea otter, the last being very dear, seal and Alaska sable and a number of other furs of less importance and some ohinchilla.
 For evening there are magnificent long mantles made of fine wool or silk brocade, and these are lined with Siberian squirrel or some other suitable fur. The colors are gray, mode, blue, pink and white for the outsides. Some have collars of rich lace over some bright colored satin, others jew eled passeInenterie trimming, but all bor dered with fluffy white angora or thick long fur of delicate drab, shading on the ends to rich brown. do not re- member tho name of this fur, but it must be very choice, as I saw set of furs of this same kind that had taken a prize at the Columbian fair. Some of these long wraps were out circular shape, but the others were shirred in, plaited or draped a little just enough to give them grace and elegance Coral pink with some of that shaded fur made one exquisite long opera cloak
 So much for the incest and newest furs. In another place I saw some very chic short capes of velour du nord. fur trimmed, and some electric seal collarettes that gave pretty effect at trifing cost. Seal plush collars bound with real seal are pretty, too, for ordinary wear. They are made ex- acHy as if they were of genuine seal and are by no means to be despised as articles of adornment
 Among the new goods that look best trimmed with fur are the knottcd cloth, bourette, tufted and plain cheviots and