davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1894-11-18
CORSET OR NO CORSETS
Views OF Prominent French Aetresse for
and Against Il.

The Gdulois asks the opinion of a certain num-
Der of prominent professional ladies upon tho
use of the corset. The following are among
some OF their replies:
Mile. BARTEr-I can do nothing better than
give you n line from Francillon." which Is
sufficiently significant: THE corset. oh, the
horrid thing"
Nine JANE HADING-The corset may be
hand of iron or a glove of velvet. Since my
recent trip to America nm for Independence.
Mime. WORMS BARRETTA.-You may say that
on principle am against the corset. ! favor 1t
in certain cases, but on condition that it DO
light, short. and very elastic. something like a
brace. which lightly encloses the waist. My
little three ycar-old girl will wear II that way,
and If later she renounces the corset
tirely her mamma will be only too glad of it,
Mile REICHENBERG-The corset is an ordi-
nary piece of feminine clothing. just like belt.
shoes, gloves. &c. | have always worn one, and
found IL very comfortable. Why should II be
regarded as the evidence OF coquetry and bad
taste? But cannot give any particular opinion
thing of very little Importance. IL should be
light affair. enclosing the waist very gently
Mile. REJASE-Each epoch has its exigen-
cics fhe corset. in my opinion. has a. much
Importance as the cut Of the costume. To look
torture. In sans iene," on the contrary, two
ribbons suffice. speak for myself In these
and believe in ribbons or braces, leaving the
back and the launches free. French women
are too slight and too well made To have need
one OF your lady readers will contradict me.
Mile. SANDEEsoS The corset, ia my opinion,
s very useful in certain cases. in society In
the theatre Speaking OF the theatre alone, the
corset should be used In roles OF the present time
or in the costumes Louis Nv, Ms In ManOn,"
for example. II is absolutely useless in antique
pieces like "Thais" and "Phryne," In which
dispense with II entirely.
Nine ii DIC-lt IL a very delicate question,
and am not sufficiently learned tn crticise IL
or 10 make an apology for ii. Nevertheless, il
had the great advantage, especially for an art
ist, Of remaining slight would most assuredly
follow tue example of Mime Tnll!en. who never
consented II shut her waist up IN an iron prison.
For all that. owe to the corset daily pleasure,
because the bother of putting II on every morn
ing is more than compensated for, Ia my mind,
by the pleasure of taking il of every night.
Mile. DARLAUD- Oh, pshaw. that beastly
cuiTaSse, tit only for coquette' Up TO her
twentieth year young woman can do without
il. dispense with IL. and have adopted thu
in white satin. set OIL with Nalenciennes. ca
Mile. GRNNIEE- For my part | don't bep''
that the thing ha, any importance. .nd
Mile. AvEFTE GTlIBERT All women, T. tbs
lcaa alike. beittle the services rendereK;Ie IN
corset, hrcausc they all pretend To hfh.autv
dispense with II without lnIpatrlng k,t since
of their figures. For NV part. admlssy"rn nne.
! began Ia get little fat have raT7 n ~ mann
hut when was lean il helped me 80 same
faCturr Of "A shape, and ConsequCD"
little gratitude to the corset.
The sun., 1894-11-18
-Fry WITH MANDY.
.JIm INsssie- Thiak that She
aAae Aked In by Hears IN the Wood.

- Pa, Nov. H. Everybody in the
49,, W., belt knows that bears are full OF
si I'D like 10 have fun with folks now and
- but nobody supposed that bears could
.sI - Of carrying joke as far as one did in the
IA neigh hborhOOd. Jim MessieTs wife started
;go on an errand to neighbor's nile away.
and half an hour later came home all put out
because she had been stopped by three bearA.
Not all AT once, but three different times.
The road she had % take runs all the way
through The woods Another road forks from
it, also through the woods, half way To tho
house she was going 20, ana passes me saihe
Mhen Mrs. MesSlCr got To the fork Of th" i'al
a hear rose up ON its hind feet in the middle OF
,he main road nntI E"It hc,,rS ana SO sh:
quietly turned into the other rhad anu wthi on
her way. although II wa E"ni G-h, M iu.thsr. y ,a.
ros' NJ IN front Of her in that road' ten rods or
so ahead. ,., 49, ,.u =, b..r
guess" said she. so III go back Rome ana 20
To james Tomorrow. .,i, "a
She turned and walked back Ia the main ROAD
and hrad"d for home. betnlr .Ht ma! sone 80 4
hundred yards. rLht in the middle ni the r,'Ad
ahead Of her f h'Sr Et u arl iit,1e nt inn much
even Tor Slrs. Jim M'ssier. ihs lhu'caIlnhs
were that she Was hemmed IN hy bear. 40 sIe
oueDpd her lungs and let 90 a few yells that
made those wnsls sound a. # wildrat, we're
holding forth in them. II the boar was haEihS
fun those yes spoiled u ma hort "F',T' Tor nIs,
Me.slpr lad scarctly started ia on them when
lie henr almost tumblcd over list II Ia get Ia the
wnnds aud Mrs. Messlcr SAYS she could near
the brush snap and Crat IA IN" bear pain lnE
a quarter uf mile. - she came nome 10 ger
some oae To go OUT and bag lh"so three aNda-
Cous bears. . II.
away There was "a a ght snow on the ground.
They went 10 where Mr.. Mess'er had seen the
first hear. IT. track led thcln lIlp the w@o"s
and out into the foFkiHE THld. Ii.rTr the h'Ar
had stopped. Then the track tpuk arut dlaEo-
nally hit toward the main read and UUt into u.
There Z he bear had stopped again. And when
bruin had quit that spot he hAd gone into hs
Woods so fast that the snow Wa t"rn up as II
steam shovel had struck 10. Jim Mrssler and
lie Two men lust laii down and hoNled
Three bears" roarcd Jim. Ilst one jolly
old cuss hayin' fun with Mandy =
And thsy never went another step on the rol-
licking bears track. but went home 70 J1!ly
Mandy about TIE Nay she ~a- saEFoehoso -
eRs bsAE.
The sun., 1894-11-18
4 SMART WOMAN IN SAN FRANCISCO
She Persuaded Insurance. Company aAa
Now Is Its HnsIIIag AEeai.

Women as insurance agents are certainly an
innovation In business life which has not shown
itself in every city but san Francisco boasts Of
one who successfully manages the woman's de-
partment of the Pacific States Life Company.
She IS described as dainty bit OF humanity
as delicate as Dresden china" and not at all on
the order of the advanced women OF the age.
She also has the honor Of being the only woman
In that part al the country Wh0 holds such place.
A few years ago shc found IL necessary 10 de
came interested IA the insurance business
through the fact that women were Obliged 70
nav IS "A thousand more than men for
the insurance on their lives. The injus-
tice OF II, led her to seek reinedY,
and she looked up statistics, consulted
whereby sex need not DO considered In the
proposition at ali. She had long struggle TO
bring the Insurance company around 70 her
way " thinking, bat shs ultimately convinced
The sun., 1894-11-18

around the back hair and quito Nat
on the head, with either loops OF ribbon
or feathers falling backward. One which
attracted no end OF attention had loops
OF ribbon standing directly out at tho sides just
above the ears. This was worn by very pretty
woman.
She wore a black chiffon waist over blue. On
one shoulder was an immense blue bow with
wired loops projecting both front and back
which with the bows ON her hair made her look
as II she might flap her wings and fly away.
Another dainty little confcction had pink
feathers curling closely over the back hair, en-
tirely hiding IL from view
Bonnets In general were as varied as the
waists they were worn with. and as bright in
coloring. Here and there a larger hat was seen.
but bonnets prevailed. and were worn by young
women quite rs much as by matrons.
The sun., 1894-11-18

waved full and huny down over their ears.
older ladies wear smaller hats or bonnets which
have grown a little in size since last season, and
do not affect this latest style OF hair dressing
unless 1t is specially becoming. Fur boas and
muiIs decorated with cream lace and yiolets are
an evident fancy OF fashion and very effective
addition 20 a pretty gown.
But afternoon dress az the Horse show Is only
a suggestion of the elegance which grests
your eve In the evening, when bright eoloTs
abound and rich yelyets laccs, and silks NIL
the boxes and frequent the promenade There,
as everywhere. the frst thing which attracts
your attsntiOn after the growing sleeve is recon
sldsred is the waist which - rarely matches ths
The sun., 1894-11-18

them OF the feasibility OF her system. woman's
unrelabiity in regard TO telling her age. the
great risk of her husbands putting her out of the
way for the money her life 10 worth, and, In
fact, all objections which initiate against
women rs profitable subjects for life insurance
were promptly abandoned by this companys
representatives in acknowledgment of her good
arguments. A wUnans department was created
for her. and corps of female assistants, who re-
Ceive the same rates as tho men solicitors, were
put under her supervision.
The sun., 1894-11-18

One very simple gown easily copied has
skirt Of brown cloth and bodice with sleeves.
and full basque of brown velvet. The back is
closely fitted, and the front is made in blouse
fashion. with one wide box plait decorated with
three large steel buttons. Over all is one Of tho
wide collars of ecru cloth. ending in short
revers in front and trimmed on the edges with
natural marten. Fawn-colored crepons In vari-
Gus shades, made mostly with odd contrasting
waists. are worn by young ladies and matrons
alike; and very pretty one which is relief to
the eye because it has waist and skirt alike, 10
trimmed with the inevitable square collar of
black moir6 covered with lace across the back.
and single piece of crepon. edged with narrow
The sun., 1894-11-18
HE rs DOING PENANCE.
This Man Is Making II Pay to Re Sorry
for His sins.

This Chinese person deserves no sympathy,
though lie is suffering physical pain inflicted
by his desire and doubtless for money
making purposes long bodkin has been
thrust through both his checks. His eyes arc
nearly closed. and the large photograph from
which this picture was made plainly shows tho
torture that is depicted in the mans face. He
Is voluntarily doing penance for his sins, and
the story of his various enormties IL told in
large characters on the board behind him.
The sun., 1894-11-18
BONNETS.
Worn o.. the Back OF the Head Now-Sons
Seen at the Great show.

Striking combinations were one Of the special
characteristics of fashion at the Horse Show,
and evening bonnets furnished many unique ex-
amples OF this feature, with white lace. bright
red roses, and Parma violets all on one bonnet.
In the first place these little airy fancies of
many colors slowly but surely finding their
way to the back of the head, and the most chic
little bonnets at the Show were little visor
shaped pieces OF Jet or brilliants fitting closely
The sun., 1894-11-18

entirely abandoned. Women are slow 10 fall in
line when fashion takes away rather than adds
10 their beauty OF face, and there was no limit
To the variety in hair dressing. The style which
was most becoming 90 them was the most stylish
In appearance every time.
The sun., 1894-11-18
SEEN AT THE HORSE SNOW.

Although flowers were not universally worn
at the Horse Show, large punches of yiOlcts
were often seen a corsage decoration. and
here and there a bunch of brigh; red roses, ear
ried in the hand frightened ihe scene. But in
only one or two instances did the flowers aCtu-
ally match the costumes and these were blue
carnations exactly the shade of blue on the
gown and the ribbon on the bonnet.
One element OF fashion at this festival OF dress
was the absence of earrings, especially dia-
monds. So few were In the afternoon or
evening that il might he said there were none at
all. Large white pearls seemed TO nh their
place, and these were not plentiful enough To
attract attention. One brilliant jewelled pin
fastened at one sido Of the collar, instead OF
directly In the middle and another somewhere
on the waist, seemed to be the prevailing manner
of displaying jewels.
Elbow sleeves Of the most vOlumin0uS descTip-
tiOn ere anOl her feature of evening dress, aud
with these were worn long suede gloves IN the
light tins Of cream. tan, pearl, and white. vel
wrinkled over the arm "a the point where the
sleeve commenced.
There Is only one style OF hair dressing whig4
Is noticeable for having bec4 recently ad0pUa
and this is the trying one uf parting the hIl "a
the middle and waving u down over the ears nt' @
II was not the only one Ia evidence ON dres P9-
Tade. Although the hair was general y.aIte'l,
the becoming little fringe which - s9tehs US
lines OF the face VAS still there. and Alls HtEte
plainly visible everywhere. Even ~ IetthlLk
httls curl N the middle " the foEsh-a "-S AS'
The sun., 1894-11-18
ALL DOUBT is REMOVED.
Fall and Winter Fashions
Fixed by the Horse Show,
AND THEY ARE VERY FETCHING.
Such a Display Of Dress Never
Seen Before in This City.

\ Careful Review OF the Features OF ths
Dressing-Ths Pi.i. Tsiior-rnsas Gowns
Worn q. the Moruins-The Ge-tesi Cos
tuuss OF the Auernoor-The sturnirsiy
Gsy Toiiettes OF the Eveni-s-so-s OF
Thsw sketched and Described-An Asout
the Latest Sleeves, Waists, snd Bon.sts.
Dress is q very significant element Of the
great Horse Show, which opens the season in
the fashionable world Of New York and serves
b prescribe the nodes for the entire winter All
tonjectures and doubts as TO styles in every
thing except full evening dress are settled be-
yond dispute in this one grand opening Of gor-
geous attire. which Is fashion made tangible
and convincing by q host of elegantly dressed
women, who display its charms and vagaries to
the best advantage. In the question ss to
whether fashions the horses have the right OF
way in the matter Of attention. dress Is un-
doubtedly on the winning side.
The FIRST thing you notice on opening day 10
chat morning gowns are mostly tailor-made, Of
smooth cloths, mixed tweeds, and rough wool
fAbrics Of every description, and built In the
The sun., 1894-11-18

sbOth pleas
Although he Is suffering he dcrkimmolation.
ure and profit from this act Of Eee this young
The public heart is touched tvil he has done,
man 50 very; very sorry for tlbpen and coppers
are shnwered on him, for, N while he is stand-
anything 70 support hinEtckedness., On this
ing here advertising hvprOhably call him an
side Of the sea we wOlknt and lock him up.
impostor and menR Is looked upon a. very
But Ia china his acis probably been drafted
into the Chinese aT'
The sun., 1894-11-18

dressmskers. had three narrow gored widths
Of green velvet up the back Of the skirt, insert
ed separately between the widths of cloth.
They were cut very narrow at the top, about
sixteen inches wide at the bottom, and hung out
in three deep plaits from the waist, making .
short woman look at least two inches taller
than she really was. The front and sides Of the
skirt are perfectly plain, and the style is very
useful enc for adding extra fullness TO an other
wise scant skirt.
A peculiar combination Of fur Is shown in .
The sun., 1894-11-18

satin ribbon TO match. and a wide box plait in
tho middle. forming the yoke in front. A mar
row girdle. or shaped belt OF lace over black. ex-
tends 10 tho sides in front, and moire ribbon
forms the belt, and a bow with long ends in the
back. Turnover cuffs of lace finish tho wrists,
and two tiny rufies OF tho crepon trim the skirt.
Many black dresses are seen. but most OF them
have either white colOred waists. elaborately
trimmed and made 80 full in front that the out
line OF tho figure is lost. Skirts and sleeves
have apparently reached the limit OF fulness,
but the average waist receives nearly all OF the
decoration for the entire gown. Young women
appear in very large hats with outstanding bows
OF velvet and feathers which give them fy-
away sort of appearance. and their hair is
The sun., 1894-11-18

one faced with silk. fur, velvet, cloth; and are
turned back over fancy vest, with an immacu-
late linen shirt front and collar, or a pretty.
delicate silk or lace blouse.
One very smart costume, more mannish than
the rest. has skirt OF mixed cloth. rather light
in color. such as men use for their trousers, and
. black coat, very much cut away, long in the
back, made like a mans coat and worn over
white vest with linen shirt, collar, and cuffs A
feather boa and a large, very feminine hat
complete this outfit without seeming TO belong
10 IL In any particular.
Plain wool dresses trimmed with bands OF fur
and velvet are also worn in the morning, and
are seen again in the afternoon, with still more
elaborate costumes suitable for calling which
are the prevailing style OF afternoon gowns.
Some Of the most elegant are Of black crepon.
very rough in pattern, very elegant in ap-
psarauos and price. Eton jackets have i'm
mense sleeves of caracal fur so like the crepon
that IL is difficult TO distinguish one from the
The sun., 1894-11-18

sEhsr. and fun blouse v,st' o. creamy lace
aT worn with thsso jaCkets. Oas jRoket had
boHs with long loops Of black satin ribbon on
slthsT shoulder.
a dEess Of novelty wool goods In shades Of
sea and brown. evidently fFesh fron ths
The sun., 1894-11-18

coat and skirt style. Tho skirts are full and
very naring. fitted closely around the hips, with
three box plaits at the back. and beautifully
hung in most cases; but here and there Is an
occasional one, with all its godet fulness fall
ing away from the moorings In the back in .
most ugly fashion. It is evident that an expert
modiste is required to make success Of all this
superfuous amount Of cloth, but when the full
ness is properly adjusted tho effect is very chic.
The latest skirt is full In front and at the sides
as well as at the back, and is generally un-
trimmed. Coats vary in length anywhere be-
tween quarter of . yard from tho bottom Of
the dress and the other extreme, nine or ten
inches below the waist, and are perfect as to dt-
They are mostly tight fitting. buttoned with
four or i've buttons, and in some instances cut
away in front like mans coat. The most fash
ionable coats are either very short or medium
lsngth. Revers and wide collars are on every
The sun., 1894-11-18
Silver Emb'd'd Screens

Goods ordered now for holidays
will be delivered any time desired.
We carry the largest stock and
finest examples of Oriental Art
Goods i'm the world.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1894-02-17
Picking a Trunk Well.

Do you know how to pack trunk
well? asks Ruth Ashmore in The Lad
les Home Journal. And if you don't
how many people do you know who do?
And wouldn't you gladly give 81 for a
large and SO cents for a small trunk
that is properly packed? Tho packer
comes with dozens of sheets of tissue
paper and several pieces Of tape. You
can sit where you belongings are, and as
skirts and bodices are taken down say
which you want Then the bodices
have their sleeves stuffed with paper to
keep them in shape, the trimmings care
fully covered with it; the skirts arc
properly folded; the bonnets and hats
have tapes pinned to them, and these
same tapes are tackled to the sides of
the hatbox, SO that no matter how much
the trunk may be shaken not feather
nor rose moves out Of its place. Then
when verything is done there is laid
OH the top Of the last tray a list of the
things that are in the trunk, so that you
don't lose you temper searching for the
pink bodice which isn't there, Or the
tan colored shoes which you expressly
requested should be left at home.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1894-02-17

AEIH " TED
every vestige of Catarrh in the
Head, no matter how bad the case,
or of how long standing, by Doctor
Sage's Catarrh Remedy. Not only
Catarrh itself, but all the troubles
that come from it-they're perfectly
and permanently cured by its mild,
soothing, cleansing and healing prop
critics. If you could only be sure
of that, it's enough.
The proprietors of DR.. Sage's
Remedy try to prove it to you.
They are sure enough Of ia
record of 25 years, with thousands
of the most hopeless cases, has salts
fed them--but how can they prove
it to you9 There's no better way
than with money. So they say this,
and they mean it: "if we can't cure
your Catarrh, no matter what your
case is, we'll pay you $500 in cash.
There's chance that you can't be
cured, but it's so small that we're
willing to take it."
What more can they say or do to
convince you?
Isn't that enoughp
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1894-02-17
,.rand canon Of colorado River.

On the Santa Fe route, in northern
Arizona, 1852 miles from Kansas City, il
the town of Flagstaff. A tri-weekly stage
line runs from Flagstaff to the Grand
Canon of the Colorado river. More than
mile in depth, this is the sublimest Of
gorges-a Titan Of chasms. Twenty
Yosemites might be hidden unseen below,
and Niagara would look scarcely larger
than brook.
Don't fail to visit this first wonder Of
the world. You can Tread mp" about it by
asking q. T. Nicholson, g. r. q T. A., A.
T. 4 5. +. R. R. Co., Topeka, Kas., to mail
you FREQ copy Of an illustrated book
describing this terra incognita. The book
ID NO common affair; but is entertainingly
written, beautifully illustrated and gem
Of the printers art.
Santa Fe daily New Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1885-1897, 1894-02-17
First Person Cremated In America.

The first white person lawfully Gre
mated within the present limits of the
United States, according to wishes and
desires expressed by himself, was Colo
mel Henry Laurens, one of the Revolu-
tionary patriots. He was born in
Charleston, s. c., in the year 1874, and
died on his plantation near that place
on Dec. 8, 1893. His will, which he
had requested them to open and read
the next day after his death, was sup
plemented with the following: II SOL
EMMY enjoin it upon my son, as an in
dispensable duty, that, as soon as he
conveniently can after my decease, he
cause my body to be wrapped in IL
yards of towcloth and burned until it
be entirely consumed" The request
was carried out to the letter and was
the beginning of cremation in Amer
ica,-St. Louis Republic.