New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-09-09
THE FASHIONS.
| NEW DRESS MATERIALS-NO CERTAINTY
NET ABOUT STYLES FOR THE FUTURE

NEW DRESS MATERIALS-NO CERTAINTY
| VET ABOUT STYLES FOR THE FUTURE.
There IL very little that Is new in cut just now
| and as there will undoubtedly be some novel de-
velopments before the annual dress parade AT the
| Horse Show, most women are waiting TOT rem
| segnements" before committing themselves by or
| derinR new dresses. They add perhaps. new
blouse or two and couple OF cloth skirts to their
| wardrobes to supply any deficiency for two or
| three weeks. 1t is a wise precaution as the race
is not generally the swift far as clothes are
concerned and II r. best not to be too precipitate
especially with heavy materials. American women
| who have bought numbers OF expensive gowns In
| Paris in August and early September have some
| times found their purchases wholly out or iash-
| ion by November. the new autumn ana winter
styles having been developed" after their return
| 10 this country. OF course. this meant abominable
| bad faith the part OF the Paris dressmakers
who in spite OF their asseveratons. knew perfectly
well that autumnal fashions were not decided upon
| when they made these gowns. and that the very
| expensive materials were being wasted
| The recent importations OF cloths and other
| woollen dress goods for the autumn and winter
| show more novelties than have been seen in the
shops since the general depression in trade began
| Rich woollen materials promise to be in demand
| Even the new cloths have greater body ana hrm-
ness OF quality than was anticipated The sort
woollens that predicted with the return or
draperies are not in evidence and II seems prob
able that the fashion of the ovcrskirt Will be laid
on the shelf so far street and carriage dresses
are concerned The English tailor has so far tri-
umphed In maintaining the reign OF the pam skrt
for street dress. This skirt is now exaggerated
in size Aaring at the bottom and especially at
the back The newest skirts are interned with
crinolne to within ten inches of the top. made
with one plain side breadth each side and
front breadth and two back breadths. gored on
each side in almost pyramidal form These back
breadhs are interllned with crnoilne their entire
hoe, ia
eodet by eIastics fastened on the under part OF
tho sktrt for about half the distance from the
waist.
The sleeves OF the newest gowns are huger than
ever while bodices often slashed. displaying a
silk waist beneath them In brilliant contrasting
color Thus a Van Dyke brown. new shade Of
reddish brown. which combines equally well with
HACK or bluet- blue IS sashed to show an under
waist Of blue. Altogether. the freshest fashion
mates look very much like the huge farthingaled
figures Of the time OF the Medics. with their big
sleeves and sashed waists
There are various cloths In cords, somewhat
heavier than the Bedford cords Of few years ago
and running across the breadth. The handsomest
of these show a heavy raised cord on plain
camel hair background. with the tiny raised dots
in silk. that the French call "boutons," figuring
them at intervals in their length These SILK
figures are usually In black on a bluet. Van Dyke
brown or Russian green background Thc DARK IN
visible green known this season as Russian green.
the two new blue shades called "bluct (Which verge
strongly on the purple) and two shades of Van
DYKE brown are the most fashionable coors in new
dress goods These colors often figured with
h.ack in the fancy cloths and combined with black
&, all the new French gowns. stu other cloths
,ra seeded with tiny silk dots and figured
4, black silk with irregular ozenge figures about
the size OF a melon seed on blue. brown or green
wool background
There are also mixed wool cloths In various
colors oyrrwoven by diamond shaped network
az soft black silk or worstcd. sun othef cioths
'rastins coors or in self-coor. There are few me
dunn coIors The taste Of the season seems TO De
tandnr toward much darker shades IMAM were
,,orn Ia AZ winter. These shades are generally CON
,ras,ed with black and We may expect many oIack
anw.ns relieved by color introduced In slasnihss.
S",ngs and in connection with jet spangles; There
pp 10 be a tendency 10 use bias CLOTHS, anu
manv OF the huge pulled sleeves are CUT ID tiis
nav draped up and held In place ~ rosette, WIN
go, as much elaboration and individuality as
Was once shown In the drapery OF ove OVERSEE, ,ro
The most elaborate part of the costume where
the combination OF all the materials IN ane soWn
nneors Is the bodice. Satin promises " pI
app, ,z 10 some extent. but MORE u useu e1uatE
on Diac aS,ectIye Tor combination with woo: Than
saIih:, range In price from 81 70 TO y o. ,,, -
T"r. are some sleazy French cioths, T"oh n,ad ~
as sn' so so as 10 give them BODY Of b 5ae viii Gwn n
. I'll fhe firm nterlinings ana SIN '' Tsi,or.
Quire Nm az Sufficient weight for ran U.S., naids
give tne wrench chevots In me noishh,,s u I'd
ar du color and In the small Sne van Dyke brown
bluet;blue: mos other fashionable combinations
ana piacn ~ six and other Six tr'n"'nss ~