The morning call., 1894-03-10
FOR THE TABLE.

The love OF marketing is deeply implanted In
the breasts Of some women, and to such fur
niShing variety in the family pabulum is more
pleasure than duty. They do not 90 through
the market with their dainty skirts upheld from
contamination with the sawdust-strewn floor
dropping their orders 10 the butcher aud green
grocer crisply, as if TO reduce TO a minimum
their stay in the place. They will not finch at
the sight OF headless calves nor OF evIscerated
Iamos' whose youthful ribs are held in place by
croSS-Stlcks instead of the tender hearts and
MYERS With which nature provided them. They
VIII not quail before the protoplasmic masses
OF brains heaped upon the counter, nor sicken
on seeing the garlands of tripe which hang
above them; they will select sweeibreads, which
are at their best aud quite plentiful now, with
care, discriminating between those Of very
young calves, which are rs cents per pound,
those of older veal at so cents, which require TO
be parboned for an hour or TWO. ana those Of
the full-grown animal at % cents. which are
hardly worth buying, as in them, except in the
very best, the glands are tOughened and dark
ened with age and are Overgrown and inter-
mixed with dsagreeable oily fat. which pre-
vents their being used in large pieces
All sweetbreads must be placed in lukewarm
water to dsgorge, then parbOiled in hot water
and lemon juice When perfectly tender they
must be placed in the coolest water procurable
10 make them white and firm. They are now
ready TO be egged and crumbed ana fried or
baked in hot oven and served on toast with
melted butter and lemon juice. But sweet
breads are an expensive luxury at best, and
there are cheaper articles which are quite as
palatable though less fashlonable; calves
hearts, for instance, are only cents each and
can De made into most appetlZng dish. They
must be carefully wiped not soaked-ali bits
OF artery and adhering blood removed. and the
cavities filed with dressing made of bread,
butter. salt, pepper and little sage, and 10
keep this in. piece OF oiled paper must be
lied firmly over the top. The heart should be
rolled In flour aud placed In a pan with two
or three sliced raw onions and half a cup of
soup stock, covered closely ami baked for
nearly an hour IN hot oven. served with the
onion and gravy about il, and accompanied
by baked potatoes and wafer cress. Two
hearts Will be enough for a family of four or
i've persons.
Inc woman who loves marketing finds inter
est IN the cuts OF beef which are now abso-
Iutely shrimp pink with their admxlure OF fat
ana IN the quarters of SOuIhdOwn mutton
which are so distinciiveIy different from the
common variety even to the superficial OBJ
server, the OVERLAPPING fat having the appear
ance OF being heavily frosted.
Now that game is denied US, this meat
stands high on the list Of good things and leg
ana loin can be had for 1919 cents per pound.
Some eplcureS maintain that nothing can sur
pass In excellence this cut, well rubbed with
VINE aud Favored by imbeddlng 10 il TWO cloves
Oh garlic, making deep cuts with 2 sharp knife
ior the purpose, then roasted and served hot
with currant Jelly. In these days of refrfgera-
tors and refrigerated meats, long hanging.
which used 10 be considered imperative. need
not be made a point OF.
The vegetable stands are very pretty now.
but prices decline very slowly, and In the case
of some vegetables not at all. One OF The finest
displays of the week has been that of sbad-
docks, or grape fruit as II is labeled but why
The latter name should be given Is lnexpllcaple
as 1t is unlike grapes in every partcular-ap-
pearance, size. favor and manner of growth
The shaddock is citrus fruit grown in River
side, but brought here originally from Cuba or
Florida. II is larger and Of lighter color than
the orange and differs from the Chinese fruit,
being rounder, less pear shaped and the flavor
Instead OF being insipid. strongly resembles
that OF lemon or lime, as iC Is slightly bitter
The peel has faint magnolia fragrance and is
very thick and corky. The pulp Is very firm
and is used as salad. All white skin even
the Partition walls, must be removed. This Is
easily done aud the fruit cut in shapely pieces.
heaped on lettuce leaves ana dressed with a
mayonnaise sauce, better still with the
French dressing, made with three tablespoon
fuls Of sweet oil, little salt and pepper and a
few DROPS of lime juice. The last must be used
carefully, on account OF the acidIty of the fruit.
Afew slices of sour apple are sometimes USED
with the shaddock.