New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-05-21
AN OLD-FASHIONED JOURNEY.
HOW PEOPLE WENT TO THE WHITE
MOUNTAINS FIFTY YEARS AGO.

MOUNTAINS FIFTY YEARS AHN
To the Editor Of The Tribune
Sir: I am very far from wishing the old times
back when railroads were not. for surely the hap
pness OF the many Is increased terfoi1 by the
facility in travelling which they AFFORD, ana II LIE
is II be measured by what Is accomplished lns'e1h
OF by days and years. certainly It Is wonderfully
heightened By the iron bands that stretch almost
round the word. But while granting most heartily
all the improvements OF our modern times. some
thing may still be said for od-fashoned modes Of
joumoying. The past retains even now its fine
flavor. Travelling day after day in the small cir
cumference Of the od-fashoned three-seated stage
coach climbing up the steep his. or rolling over
the va..ey roads pleasant experiences were ex-
changed with ones companions bright CONVERSE
tons listened to. and often lifelong friendships
formed. and although one went over less ground
more thoroughly. Moving on quietly by
and steamboat. which In comparison 10 the
speed now attained crept like snais. the end OF
nine weeks Journey found In the quaint old city
OF Quebec whence desired 10 reach Maine But
to al inquiries the answer was. Impossible.
man horseback might accomplish the Journey
but woman ncver.' There nothing left 70
do but 10 retrace our steps to Moatrea, cross the
river to La Prairie go down the Soreie and Lake
Champaign Burlington. from there across the
Green Mountains to the White Mountains. and 50
down 10 .he seaboard
At Burlington we began cur stage journey. start
Ing az cary as $3.50 on n morning In ate summer
1t was harl work arpusing ourselves even sufii-
GENTLY 10 dress. and Il wonder that jogging
/ along al fell as.eeD. Awaklng just as the dawn
breaking. | view which is forever pic
turel n my memory We In the valley OF the
Wnooskl. side the moon just setting hung
above the hills on the other. the first beams OF the
rising sun were gliding the slopes, while the river
Slowed dark AMI cod AT our feet vainiy attempted
TO arouse my companions. for It really seemed
wicked not 70 share such beauty, but sleep he'd
them too fast.
We reached Montpelier. a lovely pace nestled In
a deep valley. for breakfast and sept at night In
Idttleton In those days there National
banks with bis current all over the country, and
peop.e had to provide themselves with considerable
gold whom travelling and We were rather
troubled when We found 10 have one ~
the rooms opening into the par.or. without any
fastening on the door and the other occupied by an
unknown person. on speaking ID the landlord. lie
eravey assured US. "a gentleman from Florida Is
IN that room" as II that quite settled the question.
However the night passed Of quietly. The gentle
man from florida" not making any trouble.
We met some very queer peopie-one Yankee.
who had been out West. evidently had not made
! his fortune and returning TO the home farm
with a sick young wife He OF the questioning
type. which Mrs Trolope has described but which
never before could believe existed. Another. an
OH gentleman much opposed 70 all modern improve
ments believing that they were devices Of the adj
verslry ruin the country. sat opposite TO me- and
! would gicofu.ly observe az we toLed up the long
! HIS 40 railroads here madam" What would
he say II he were alive now, and saw his beloved
| Vermont cut by them in every direction?
Rut MY Intention Is % tell Of our ascent Of
| Mount Washneton and my memory IS lingering too
,Dng 90 the way We. az the end 81 The thiri day
! We drove Wy 10 the I'd farmhouse wner' Mr. Flbynu
! iv-l and what q dear Oh home IL was We were
received not as strangers, but az welcome visitors
! Inlcel one coud take ones ease az that inn.
| Everything nas as neat as hands c1nd make H.
\ pump feafher-bel which was not Unwe.come. as
the nights were very coD.-lnd linen sheets. woven
| In the days when New England farmers raised
lax made Our room quite perfect. The cook
!ng which was done by Mrs. Fabyan. was dc-
nclus Excellent tea. Hight bread. chickens broliel
| o q turn spongc-c,ke and pound-c,ke gItless
/ % soda baking powder FOR our supper; coffee.
! genuine Johnny cake. with all the natural sweet
nc.s ~ the corn freshly caught trout fried so crisp
arI brown FOR breakfast, AM Tor dinner. roast pig.
| or n0untiin lamb. Wit nice yegctnb.es ana des-
s.r,s ne dainty as rca cream. fresh eggs AMI ripe
| berries could make them For all this comfort the
! price was only 81 per day. l have often thought
! II an Invalid. whi.c enjoying mountain air. coul
| als1 enjoy Mrs Fabyan's cooking the process ~
/ recovery would be- rapid ndeel Mrs Fabyan de-
| serves 10 boz h.,l IN Kind remembrance by al
/ whom she s.rvel. she was so swee; AMI mothery.
| and good wltha. a genuine New-Ens!dnI woman
As We arrived small party were coming down
from the mountain. They nd enI2yei II mu n,i
- .iircs. - we waited day after day. FOR although
the shou" IN ihe yaLey. anu w. cou'i Hrve
| down and up the Noich. our mountain ma ms
! face On She clouds. | unwilling 20 leave. ana
| my Kind husband MAS most indu.grnt. ana we re-
A. home The climb must be undertaken the next
tLty or Il would have % 20 over 10 another season
ami W. must make the ascent hastily % be back
in Tim. 10 take the stage FOR Conway Happily
IL .olk,I clear In the morning. and We made an
early start about O'Clock hal always enjoyed
horseback riding but mounted on poor sadd."
with a stlrrup Instead OF a shoe for my foot ana
qnite a new experience. However. We SCI on
6raycly our guide in 'front.' toll%~lns my husband
| Of "walkab5uts." or. rather. "rideabouts." We
were, For AT The last moment or most iearihS
that the gentlemen were not iresS"l WHTIn!y
| enough brought out two coats. which must. from
their make have belonged 20 ms is'ncr OF b' a,n,
their own overcotts They were ~ cam.ei. trimmed
Win fT % n fP 6a o w and sG'1 very ny long skirts
We began AT a brisk trot, for We were 70 ac
cred A good days work They called II nine miles
from the house. but Nc"-Iiampshire miles are
Ne role three miles before We began the ascent
proper. forling the AinmonoOsnc severa, tlineS
over the opposite bank AMI on with no pause f2l
rcst When reached the has" 81 the NIL th'
no Thought t. anything but holding on and, IN
doe, fhcrc was nerd Of his advice II had been
aIi With mud through which the horse plunged ano
aounicrel but what IA care? | was going e
ret
,.tb@r ana snow % fan thick and fast. 50 thickll
that / was often utterly n.one. not able either e
go. my guide I'm front or my husband behlni,
cou'i not even hear them but | knew they wer'
there ana not afraid. ioed cheerfuly on. althouSi
| I must confess | sometimes wondered how shou,'
avcr get down. watched my nag Climb Ike
! cat over the rocks and had to bend forward an'
chm 10 his neck to prevent myself from tumbin'
~ n, clsvn ri but though not much to .OOk at th
NOR creature was gentle patient and kind. neVe
once stumbling. and. strange as 1t may seem J
! vas not half 50 hard To keep on coming down.
We .yere stu in thick Clouds when we reached I'M
| email hat where were 10 leave our horses an'
."f our mncheon Lifted down from the saddle.
fc.t now very weary | was. but would not lister
| ,.bcr tho Guide said Il advise going no further
You conld not get any view. and you look ali bea
an, "Oh" I said. give up now, cannot; re-
me- stand g, the top" 80 on scrambled; | wa
sIrpriead 10 flrd the top of the mountain mas
| ~ roundel stones. which made very hard walking
. unILle L,ln m inrellN. the coli