The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1894-06-11
THE HOME.
Travelling Dresses.


A cursory glance over the crowd of
passengers on an outgoing steamer soon
proves that covert coating has almost
superseded the long popular blue serge
for travelling dresses. This durable
fabric is mostly seen in the light beige,
tan and fawu colors, and occasionally in
light green or grayish blue. The useful
tan shades are not always becoming,
but the brunette who finds them I'M
suited to her complexion can improve
them by adding vest of warm red bas-
ket-cloth or of pale yellow pique, while
blonde can choose vest OF light blue
with white dots, lines or crossbars.
The coat and skirt invariable in such
gowns are severely plain if made in good
taste. The well cut skirt, escaping the
floor all around is untrimmed except by
stitching above hem, and is usually
without lining, though occasionally
lined with gay taffeta silk the color of
the vest, or matching that of shirt
waist to be worn by way of variety dur
ing the voyage. The coat may be long
or short, as one fancies, and either sin
gle breasted or Tapped at the waist line
60 fasten by one or two buttons The
revers and collar are masculine in cut,
and there are no fancy collarettes, but
terhy collars or epaulettes seen. Even
pockets are most modest, being mere
Sits cut diagonally and stitched, with
out flaps.
While covert-coating suits are sold
ready made in the shops at very low
an air of great elegance. Thus, for the
wife of a young millionaire sailing away
to enjoy yachting in English waters, a
fashionabl tailor supplies covert
suit with two coats, one quite short, the
other reaching almost to the knee. To
make these coats very smart when the
yachts woman goes ashore, several vests
are provided of rich old style brocades
! in dull colors. or with white or gray
| MORE ground with black dashes or dots,
and q metallic design brocaded in cop
per, gold.s or silver. Otherwise the cos
tune is as simply fashioned as those that
cost but little money.
Mohair gowns are also seen in the
crowd of summer travellers. They are
very light of weight and are rather
more elaborate in design than the usual
tailor gown. One made by Redfern is of
light gray blue with the coat quite long
in the back, and belted there by folds
of dark blue coming through the sides on
the front of short coat well cut away.
and reappears above in wide triple re-
vers, each bound with the ligh mohair,
and holding in it's sharp point large
button enamelled in rich colors. Large
gigot sleeves have wide cuffs of the dark
peau de SOLE A short and very full
back interlined to the top with pliable
French hair cloth. "A arper's Bazaar.
Graduation Gowns and Summer Cottons.
AS we stated few weeks ago. some of
the best schools have taken stand in
favor of greater simplicity in gradua-
ton dresses, but with the choice of
white muslin the demand for simplicity
is only too apt to end. A straight flow
ing skirt shirred about the hips, with
high shirred waist. full long sleeves,
and collar and belt of white ribbon,
is the Bazar's ideal gown for the girl
graduate, but something very different
is permitted even by the most strict par
emit and preceptress. insertions and
founces of lacesare added. or perhaps the
entire skirt is covered with founces of
embroidery. The high waist and at
least elbow sleeves are, however, insisted
| upon this season for evening Commence
ments as well as for those which take
place in the afternoon.
A pin-dotted Swiss muslin dress. popu-
| lar with graduates has one of the fash
| ionable waists made entirely of puffs
| from neck to belt joined by very narrow
EN- broidered insertion. The closing of
| the waist is on the left shoulder and un-
der the arm. The full and pretty sleeves
have puffs at the wrist. A collar of
white MORE ribbon ends in a bow in
| the back. Nile ruffles of embroidery
wrought with pin dots and open scalloped
edges cover the skirt in rather elabor-
ate fashion, only becoming to slight fig
| ures A MORE ribbon belt three inches
wide is sewed around the skirt belt and
has bow with sash ends behind. A
new model for a graduates dress is of
nainsook OF lawn, with an apron over
| skirt, long and slender in front, held
at the foot by the large bow of ribbon
| that IS now seen on many Paris gowns.
This tablier is very short on the sides.
and falls longer as basque in the back,
the whole edged with lace in one of the
pretty Greek designs. Two insertions
| of the same design are let in around the
skirt, and at the foot is nainsook ruf11e
four inches deep, edged with the straight
| insertion in the way now in favor. Point
DODrUOyv roc