davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1894-05-06

better secured at some tailoring estab-
lishment than at ladies' goods store.
Lap seams prevail, and in all cases these
gowns are self-trimmed and are without
braiding.
The bodice is in coat fashion, made
with full skirt set on, and the most
stylish have the skirt reach to, or even
below, the knees. Stylish rigs are also
planned with cut-awav sack coats. Much
or little of the waistcoat may be seen, 1t
is made like q mans and fits exactly,
with slight conventionalizizing OF the
figure. 1t may be of piquet, of cashmere,
or of any of the many vestings in vogue.
There is the widest latitude in color. Scar
let or scarlet showered with tiny black
dots ia in perfectly correct taste and not
conspicuous. White ID all right and
very dressy. Tans are worn, and white
dotted with red, tan or blue. Light and
gray blue and navy blue in cashmere or
in wash vestings are all good. The tie
either white or black, or of picouet to
match the Vesting. The linen, in the
best taste, is quite plain. At the same
time, striped collars and cuffs are recog-
nized as swagger. If the waistcoat is
bright, it is usual to have touch of cor
responding color in the bat.
Now, it is, of course, quite impossible
to have your street dress in excellent
taste and without the least bit of loud
ness, and yet be quite unlike the most
prevalent mode. Many women will
consider it desirable to have their cos
tunes different from the styles which
have been adopted so generally as to
constitute, almost, a prescribed uni
form. The attention of such women is
called to the two dresses of the fret two
pictures here. Both are dressy and COR
rect, despite the entire absence of tailor
cut. In the first one the trimming of
the gored skirt conaiats of seven length
wise narrow bands of silk, put on with
20-inch Space between each, bordered
with soutache. The bodice has revers
The herald., 1894-05-06
Japau's Awakening.

A silver stork 4 inches high was the
souvenir given to the guests at the state
banquet which terminated the ceremo-
MES of the imperial silver wedding in
Japan. Thia was the occasion not only
of royal festivities, but it marks in
way the approach of the Japanese wom-
en- to social emancipation. 1t was de-
81 c.,aod 70 i,,dioata tha s4-sa-n e.s,,s Aoa;.
that the usages which have hitherto reg
ulated the domestic life Of Japan should
be so far amended as to establish a near
er approach 10 equality, if not an actual
and thorough equality, between his male
and female subjects. The twenty-fifth
anniversary Of the imperial marriage
afforded happy opportunity for this
declaration, and for accompanying it
with forms which could not be misap-
pretended. In ordinary national festi-
walls the emperor stands alone as the GEN.
trail figure, and the observances pre-
scribed, whatever they may be, are ex-
clusively to his homage. In this instance
the honors were not merely shared by
the empress, but it was felt that they
were in greater and worthier part adj
dressed to her. Only twice before had
she appeared with the sovereign in
any public function, but now the en-
peror had resolved to show that the place
Of his wife was beside him and on bis
own level-not beneath him, nor at a
distance, in the subservient attitude
which custom assigns to tho women of
this country. In every respect the inno-
walton was commendable and of excel
lent promise Its results may or may
not be Immediately apparent, but blow
has been struck by the highest power in
the land against an abuse and evil which
could no longer be made consistent with
the pretentions to civilization which the
empire is constantly striving to vindi-
cate -Tolxio Co7raS-Ordpot
The herald., 1894-05-06

Ash Wednesday is so called from the
curious custom Of srewing ashes ON the
head as a sign OF penitence. 1t was prob
ably instituted by Gregory the Great,
who was pope from 800 to Goa Origi-
nally the ashes were consecrated on the
altar before mass, sprinkled with holy
water and signed three times with the
cross During this ceremony the priest re-
cited these words, 'Memento quod cinis
es ct in cinerem reverteris. (Remem-
Der that thou art dust aud must return to
dusty The ashes thus consecrated were
then strewn on the heads OF the of1iciat-
ing priests and the assembled people.
The ashes were usually obtained by
burning the palms consecrated on the
preceding Palm) Sunday. st. Louis
Bepublio.
The herald., 1894-05-06

tional exposition has had one result in
the formation of Woman's Congrcsx
association, which is to hold its meet
ing this month, and which promises 10
be almost ~ brilliant and interesting as
the woman's congress of tho Worlds
fair. The president Of the board of man
ayers is Mrs Abby Cheney, who is
prominent in musical art and was for
merly president of the Century club.
She is said to have great executive abil-
ity combined with the dignity and grace
which made Mrs Potter Palmer SO adj
mirable presiding officer. She is the
wife of John Vance Cheney, the poet.
On the board Of managers are such
women as Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper, the
noted kindergarten and president Of
the Golden Gate Normal Training
school; Mrs. Edna Smell Poulson, anoth-
er famous educator, and Mrs. Charlotte
Perkins Stetson. the writer, sociologist
and reformer.
Mrs May Wright Sewall and Mrs
Henrotin, the vice president of tho wo-
mans auxiliary Of the Worlds fair, are
among the speakers for May, and the
board hopes to have Mrs. Potter Palmer
deliver an address. The number of
bright California women who will talk
is legion. Among them are Margaret
Collier Graham of Pasadena, a writer
Of short stories; Theodosia B. Shepherd
of Horticultural fame; Harriet NJ. Strong,
on reform and social questions; Mrs.
Sarah Pratt Carr, ON the outlook Of Cal
iforEia literature, and Mrs. Mary F. No
Roberts, who is well known III English
political circles, on the legal status of
women in different countries. San
Francisco Letter.
The herald., 1894-05-06
be hidden By the gathera and another

be hidden by the gathers and another
MORE rosette.
Already it is time to think OF summer
dress on the street. Summer materials
OF the more durable sort are made up
exactly as tweeds have been. Linen is
q favorite material, and solid colorr and
tailor finish prevail, to the point OF ia
booing frills. Wash braid and bias
bands OF wash material contrasting with
the body of the gown, lend charming
effects. A charming rig in gray blue,
(oi course there is new name for this
color-there is every season--but il is
the colt gray shade which, since its in
PRODUCTION some II years ago as -'cadet
blue" has hardly changed save In desg-
nation) is made with double skirt. the
upper skirt iauntily rounding down in
front and shortening over the
hips and at the back. There are
three rows of bias folds OF white upon
the edge Of both upper and under skirt.
The bodice is a little eton affair, which
eets so snugly down at the back that the
short skirt OF the overskirt seems to be
rather tbs skirt of coat bodice. The
eton shortens towards the front, expos
ing the white piquet wai.tcoat. The
latter is go high as to show only little
OF the linen. Collar and cuffs are blue
and white striped. and the rest Is plain.
Copyright. 1894
The herald., 1894-05-06
WOMAN'S WORLD.
ENCOURAGING PROGRESS MADE BY
THE LOCAL COUNCILS OF WOMEN.

Japan's Neutrality-suspicious. and Finance.
Another woman's Congrass-Morals and
tho Ballos--A Chicago Experiment-At-
lanta's Promise.
When Frances E. Willard, in her
presidents address at the national coun-
gil of 1891, sketohed the growth che
hoped for the council and outlined the
plan of local councils of women In all
the cities and towns of the nation, some
of us thought her more Of a dreamer
than q seer, but, as month after month
brings word of the formation of new
councils In various important cities 1t
begins to look as If her words were in
deed prophetic
Some who have not watched the mar
velous growth Of interest i'll the council
idea in its various developments may
ask, What is local council OF women
and what is its work?''
Perhaps the best organized of the To-
cal councils is that of Minneapolis, which
held four days congress to mark its
second annual meeting. ST divides its
work into II departments.S During the
entire year it holds monthly meetings,
which are we'll attended, and at which
the papers presented for discussion COM
pare favorably with the best produc-
tons in our current magazines. This
council also makes a special point Of
the social reception of distinguished wo-
men visiting Minneapolis, and since in
itself the council includes so many in
terests it is scarcely likely That any wo-
man of note may not be classified under
some one of its departments and thus
become entitled to the social recognition
which it is its pleasure to give, and
which results in mutual knowledge
which cannot fail to be gain both to
the stranger within their gates and to
the women of Minneapolis themselves.
In Indianapolis the council of women
has been interesting itself and the city
council in questions of sanitation, line
of effort in which women may find work
to do in almost any of our American
cities
But, aside from their active work,
the local councils must act as great
solvent Of narrowness and prejudice, the
prejudice against our neighbor which
arises-as most of this sentiment does
from ignorance of our neighbor and his
motive. When black and white, Chris
tan and Jew, philanthropist and rad
ical reformer, club woman and w. G.
T. Q. worker sit side by side and listen
to and enter into friendly discussion as
to what will bsst further the good of
all their fellow citizens, an immense
step in advance has been taken for WON
en- toward that freemasonry of sex which
has been so helpful to men, and which
women as yet understand so little. -
American Woman's Journal
The herald., 1894-05-06
Two Great DAYS.
News.

The teacher was instructing the arith-
metic class in history.
con what day is Washington's birth
day." she inquired.
Twenty second Of February" an
swered the class.
"And Independence day."
1.-THE Fourth Of Jaly.'
"What is the difference between the
two days?"
This seemed to be poser, and no re-
ply was forthcoming. Finally young
ster who had been scribbling on slip
Of paper held up his hand.
Good for you johnny, said the
teacher encouragingly. Now tell US
what the difference is between these two
Of the greatest days in our national his
tory. "
-Four months and 10 days, ma'am, :"
and the teacher was shocked, because
she had forgotten there was an arithme-
tic side to the question as well as his
tory one.-DeIoit Free Press.
The herald., 1894-05-06

mode-colored cloth, and it's skirt has e
6-inch band OF white bengaline around
the bottom covered with parallel rows
of copper-colored soutsche braid. 1t is
lined with the same shade Of taffeta and
has frill OF the same inside. The cos
tune is completed by white bengsline
blouse and modified Elton OF the cloth,
having white benGaline revers, turned
down collar. and cuffs also trimmed with
copper-colored eoutache. The blouse ia
finished with a standing collar and a
bengaline belt, also showing soutsche
Rarniture, hooks in front, with two
fancy mother-ofpearl clasps.
The companion picture in the figure
displays a gown OF cocoa brown cloth,
trimmed with dark brown silk. The
skirt is lined with black tsffsta and is
bordered with a narrow roll of dark
brown silk. The bodice is drsped with
cloth and hooks in front. 1t is finished
by short velvet jacket that has no
seam in the back, but ia fastened to the
bodice with the under-arm seams. The
fronts turn back in draped revers and
cape collsrette furnishes the epaulettes
over the shoulders. The jacket is fin
iehed by standing collar that hooks III
the back and laige jabot of null and
lace, or entirely Of lace. is placed in
front. Around the waist, below the
modified Elton, is folded bias belt that
hooks at the side with cloth bow and
has one end pendant on the skirt.
Lace is as popular as ever, but less is
used in white than ever before. Black
and unbleached lead. The latter comes
in dull yellow, and in Initiation OF Inis
there are any number of cheap gUipures
dyed vivid yellow. dull gray lace is
also used and gray yellow and ivory tints
choicest designs. Vandyked lace is much
in vogue, and laces with deep net fin.
ished at top and lower edge with points
of guipure finish, are expensive. Nets
The herald., 1894-05-06
BISHOP PoLk's QUICK WIT.
How He Saved Himself From Captux
When Inside TIE Federal Lines.

| How He Saved Himself From Capture
When Inside TIE Federal Lines.
Bishop Polk of Louisiana, who served
so zealously in the Confederate army,
had one adventure at the battle of Per-
ryville which is best told In his own
words. He says:
About dark, shortly after the arrival
of Liddell's brigade, observed body
of men whom l believed to be Confed-
crates standing at an angle to this bri-
gade and firing oblisuoly at the newly
arrived troops.
Dear me, " said /, ''this is very sad.
1t must be stopped So turned round,
but could find none of my young men,
who We're about on various messages.
determined to ride up myself and settle
the matter. l cantered up TO the colonel
of The regiment asked him in angry
tones what he meant by shooting at his
friends and desired him to cease doing
so at once.
Il don think there can be any mis-
take about it, he said, with some sur
prise. 81 am sure they are the enemy I"
''Enemyr' said why, have only
just left them myself. Cease firing, sirl
What IS your name, sir?''
My name is Colonel - of the
-, and pray, sir, who are your"
Then, for the first time, / saw to my
establishment that he was Federal, and
that l was III the rear Of the Federal
lines. l knew there was no hope but in
brazening it out, my dark blouse and the
increasing obscurity befriending me, so
l approached quite close to him, shook
my fist i'll his face and said:
TN soon show you who am. Cease
firing at oncel''
then turned my horse and cantered
slowly down the line, shouting in an
authoritative manner to the Federals to
cease firing.
AT the same time l experienced dis
agreeable sensation like screwing up my
back and calculating how many bullets
could lie between my shoulders. l was
afraid to increase my pace till l got to II
small copse, and then put the spurs in
and galloped back to my men. rode up
to the nearest officer and said to him,
colonel, have reconnoitered those fell
lows pretty closely, and there Is no mis-
take about their being FederalsP'--
Youths Companion.
The herald., 1894-05-06

The Domestic Science Association has
Just organized at Chicago. 1t will IN
dertake to train women in "the lost arts
of domesticity" 1t is hoped that laun-
dry work will not be omitted from the
programme, which includes cooking,
general housekeeping sewing, home
nursing and physical culture The OBJ
ject of the association as given in the
charter is to promote and develop the
social and industrial education of girls
and women and to place food at cost
within reach of the poor. One Of the
greatest needs in the city, say the ladies,
are means of amusement for young wo-
men away from home. This department
will be IN charge Of Miss Jessie Patton,
who will conduct the classes in physical
culture and organize dramatic corps
among the girls of the club entertain
ments being given in the clubhouse,
which contains an auditorium capable
of holding 900 people. Graduates of the
Cook county hospital will have charge
Of the home nursing department, which
will include o knowledge Of simple rem
edies in the family and ready aid to the
injured. Well known society ladies who
have had experience in training serv-
ants will take charge of the housekeep-
ing department. The idea is to develop
a system that will bear the Same rela-
ton to the educational world for the
training OF girls that the kindergarten
does for children. The association will
shortly erect handsome st. Andrews
stand at the foot Of the elevated rail-
road stairs on Congress street, Cooper's
store, where penny meals will be dis
pensed. Chicago Letter.
The herald., 1894-05-06
nIiss Ina D. Coolbrith.

Miss Ina D. Coclbrith was a notable
guest at the Authors club reception a
few weeks ago. Miss Coolbrith, who is
Californian, is we'll known as writer
of graceful and pleasing verse. She has
already received much attention at the
hands of New York's literary set, be-
ing Z young woman of marked personal
charm as well as poet.
The herald., 1894-05-06
Stand by Each Other.

Until women stand by women and
show their support in all the womanli-
ness of their nature, no lasting result
for equality and suffrage can be OBJ
tanned. Let women uphold each other
for the right as men do each other for
either right or wrong, and in the end
the steadfastness of their purpose must
accomplish the noble aim in view.-
Woman.
The herald., 1894-05-06

grace may individuslze her, but not her
dress. There should be general stand
ard OF correct and suitable wear for the
str eet which should be adhered to by
all women juat now such a standard
seems to have been established and it is
the tailormade. Every other woman is
thus arrayed, the usual model being the
two.piece gown with wastcost and
''linen." Light mixed cloth of close
texture in the tweed variety is the best
selection, and the mixture OF color re-
suits usually in dull tan tone. Gray
is less generally adopted. A few street
gowns are made up in. suitings like those
In use by men, but these stuffs can be
The herald., 1894-05-06
Equal REPRESENTATION.

Whatever my opinions as to the i'm
portance or desirability to women of the
ballot, if the polls were opened to them
1 should feel obliged to vote for the
same reason that 1 insist every man
should vote now--namely, that the in
telligence Of the country shall be repre-
sented as well as its ignorance. Olive
Thorn, Miller
The herald., 1894-05-06
A Woman Gardeners Work.

Miss Wilkinson, landscape gardener
of the Metropolitan Public Gardens as
ISOLATION, London, is now engaged in
laying out st. Mary's park, Woolwich,
and Victoria Park cemetery. Myatt's
fields, Camberwell and Vauxhall park
are other open spaces recently laid out
by Miss Wilkinson. Liverpool Mer-
The herald., 1894-05-06
Woman and Finance.

A Brooklyn young woman has been IN
the habit for several years Of reading
the market reports daily to her father.
To make tle occupation interesting to
herself she sensibly asked questions, dis
cussed situations and ended by becom-
ing shrewd critic Of affairs. Her IA
Their admits with pride that some of his
best investments were made upon her
Judgment and at her suggestion, and
that more than once her sagacity avert
ed loss for him.
That, however, women have to ac-
quire this financiering ability is evil
denced by recent remark Of well
known capitalist and investor, a leading
officer in one of the big insurance COM
panies, to the effect that he has put a
stop to practice III which he at ono
time considerably INDUCED. This wa
the advising Of women in their financial
affairs Women who were friends of
his, or who brought letters from friends
OF his, came to him constantly asking
his opinion on investments and transac-
tons. He began by giving it as he would
TO a man, stating always that it was
not infallible, merely the Judgment of
one mind, and deprecating responsible
ty for results This qualification would
be accepted at the time, but in the event
of disaster TO plans or steps he had adj
vised he was frequently bitterly blamed.
And now it is extremely difficult for
a woman to get an opinion from him,
These two recitals, taken together,
make an argument in favor Of the grow
ing effort OF women to enlarge their
knowledge Of business affairs The first
story proves they are equal TO acqulr-
ing it, and the second certainly attests
how much they stand in need of it.
New York Times.
Ar,4I,sr. W n,,nnrts Cnnoress
The herald., 1894-05-06
She Is opposed to Tyranny.

Mrs. Sarah Norton of this place has
the following painted on the back Of her
wagon, and it attracts considerable at
tention whenever she drives out: "Tax-
alton Without Representation Is Tyran-
ny. Will Not Submit to This Tyranny.
Therefore Have No Home '-Towan-
da Pa) Reporter Journal.
The herald., 1894-05-06
What lis Nnedod.

DR. Mary Putnam Jacob recently
made the remark that as a class women
did not so much need elevating as they
did more knowledge and greater oppor-
tunities. DR.. jacob was ono Of the first
persons to advocate tho building Of ten
ements about an open square as an i'm
portant factor n securing more health
full physical and moral condition among
Tho rOnr.
The herald., 1894-05-06
Tho Little Prosessoress.

For some months clever young New
York girl of 10 has been coaching q
number Of Columbia students who We're
conditioned in their chemistry examina-
tions. They try to chaff ''the little pro-
fessoress, as they call her, but they
say privately that they have learned
more chemistry than all the learned pro-
fessors ever taught them. New YORK;
SIM
The herald., 1894-05-06

Little Dorothy Drew, the much talk
ed of small granddaughter of Mr.. Glad
stone, is, it seems, another subject or
victim Of the barefoot theory. The child
wears shoes and stockings only when
the roads about Hawarden are miry or
frozen, or when she goes abroad in town
with her grand. rher.
The herald., 1894-05-06
Tho College Girl.

Already there are SO applicants for
admission to the next freshman class Of
Barnard college. OF the present senior
class, which numbers seven members,
one is already married, and two are en-
gaged--and still it has been said that
the college girl is averse to matrilnony.
New York News
The herald., 1894-05-06

country lnn. s,..>.-nly they renlom
b6csst IT, aht th 6h .ssafAh1 ts ipfdhe6r
landlady refused to trust them, although
the Princess Elizabeth assured her, with
flashing eyes, that they were "honest
people"
The herald., 1894-05-06

Miss Julia Kemp West of Richmond,
N. ", has just entered upon her duties
as school commissioner. She has made
Miss Nellie NJ. Ford her private score
tary. They have long been associated in
executive capacities.
The herald., 1894-05-06
Hortioulture For Women.

England's Horticultural College For
Women is in its fourth and most pros
porous year. 1t teaches women to take
charge Of estates, gardens and poultry
yards, and the working day is divided
into five hours Of practice out Of doors
and two hours of theory The course is
two wears
The herald., 1894-05-06

Washington of giyine cnildren's lunch
and tu6 ffincneons that sne g1@ssp1} esaisHso
little people are elaborate in dainty
way and very unique. - Washington
CORRESPONDENT.
The herald., 1894-05-06

Mrs Frances B. Stearns Of Harris
burg, Tex, and Miss M. Saunders of
Halifax have received 5000 each from
the American Humane Education soci-
ETY. as prizes for stories designed to pro-
mote kindness to animals.
The herald., 1894-05-06

The slesves, collar and belt are made Of
mordore silk, and the circular skirt IL
gsrnished with three gathered puffs
around the bottom.
There are shown for wear indoors very
pretty apron-like overdresses with a
deep point in front, short over the hips
and two long sash ends falling in jsbot
folds half way to the edge of the skirt.
These are particularly becoming to short
women. A pointed overskirt 10 eeen on
the right hand dress of the third illus
tration. Its two points reach nearly to
the skirt hem, but in back it measures
but 10 inches. The toilet 10 made OF
The herald., 1894-05-06

A fresh story of princess comes from
Vienna. Crown Princess Stephanie and
her little daughter, the Princess Eliza
beth, were ON a country excursion and
stopped to buy sozae milk and fruit at
The herald., 1894-05-06
A Gravel Road.

A little gravel strung along a gre]
distance is little benefit. Make smi
piece at time, but make good id
First the grading and draining, then
less than eight inches Of gravel. M
year do another piece.