The morning news., 1894-09-30
SOME FAMOUS FRENCH COOKS
One of Them is Said to Have an In
come of $35, 900 Year.
From the Philadelphia Times.

| u
| From the Philadelphia Times
The French have always been proud of
! their cooks. In the old time, Castor
| Phoebus. at single meal served up as
many as 300 different dishes, all of which
/ were the creations of his own brain The
| present cook of the Lion dor brings out
new dish of his own each season But
this is no longer common. There are signs
that French cookery has had its day and
| is living on the reputation of the past
| Still there are great names and successes
| TO recommend it.
Gambetta, who dearly loved good liv-
| ing made stir at one time with the for
| tunes of his cook This was the famous
| Trompette. He had been the cook of the
! Due de Noailles, but the republican dicta-
/ tor persuaded him TO leave the service Of
aristocracy, by Offering him a salary of
/ a. 400 year. This was something enor-
nous for France. 10 must be remeu.-
bered, however, that the commission Of
cent out of every 20, which the French
cooks collect from tradesmen, along with
| the remnants and savings and pickings
and other benehces, amount 10 many
! times over the original salary. In the
large Partisan clubs, where the best cook
are now said to be found, their annual in
come is estimated at from 81, 900 to S6, 900
year. Gambetta, who had all his money
from politics. was open handed When
he died Irompette was able 10 retire with
a handsome fortune to a villa which he
had bought down in Berri. There he
rested from his labors and became as
mighty a fisherman as he mad been an ac-
complished cook. Then he died.
This was only last autumn. when the
! Russians were visiting Paris and being
~ hnI a hufY ssss4g.
| all the French papers declared that with
/ Irompette the glorious traditions Of
/ French cookery had passed. The great
! Cos6s were no more. This is doubtless
| an eXaggeration, although there are signs
| that the rushing and careless spirit Of
! the age has brought down the standard
! Of cooking, which was 50 long a fine art
] in France. Abroad the renown Of the
/ French cook Is as great as ever
There are still famous cooks in Paris.
| The complaint is that they tend to disap-
| pear from the great public establish
| ments, where their place has been taken
, by slovenly workmen, who have not the
] old conscientious art. Aurelien Scholl.
! who was the chrOnicler Of the Boulevard
| In It's glory. says that 20 dine well at a
] restaurant nowadays you must take a
/ train 10 Brussels. He attributes the de
! cadence to the new generation Of restau-
! rateurs, many OF whom have worked
their way up from being mere walters
and are In far too great a hurry 10 make
| their fortunes. II is also said that the
| official dinners given by the ministers Of
state are too often 10 only 20 poison the
/ guests. A parvenu politician has neither
the time nor the taste 10 keep that watch
| over his kitchen which the thorough
breds of the old regime used 10 be trained
President Casimir-Perier, so 10 IS said
| again, Is an exception % this rule under
the republic. Fieuret, the cook whom he
! had installed in the Elysee, was with him