The Durham daily globe. (Durham, N.C.) 1889-1894, 1894-09-29
AUTUMN TINTS in DRESS.

Null, with Velvet Collars.
The new tones in brown for autumn
and early winter wear show q decided
tendency toward red reflections. Burnt
flour, auburn, mahogany, rust color
q autumn leaf are the names by
which some of them are known; au-
tumn leaf being hardly more than a
dull red, with bronze shadows which
show only in folds.
These shades are all more effective
IT made up in plain woods touched
somewhere with velvet in a deeper
tone, but some of the latest materials
in them show checks, plaids, and even
stripes, accented with a thread of def
mite red or gold.
Along with the red browns are seen
the familiar dull leaf shades deepened
and melting into indistinct greens.
The old-fashioned snuff brown, so
becoming to fair, hi~gh-colored COM
pleXiOns, will also be much worm; and
for this shade Persian embroidery or
black Russian fur make the handsom-
est trimming.
Bishops mantle, a deep, rich violet
that suggests the time-honored royal
purple, is one of the new tones for
camels' hair and ladies' cloth. In fan
tastic stutfs, virgo, a curious eccentric
tint touching on peacock blue, is the
latest novelty. Other new colors for
either silk or wool are p~etunia gray,
which has an atmosphere of pink,
beef's blood red, bottle blue, and wall
flower yellow, that looks as if lightly
busted with brown.
Turquoise blue, in slight touches of
velvet or satin, makes an effective bod
ice garniture for dull leaf brown cos
tunes.
When velvet is used. it is generally
only a wide shirred collar, rolled belt
and cuffs; but lately imported visiting
toilet in this combination showed an
entire tight-ftting vest of the satin
over which fell a loose blouse of white
oriental gauze, spangled with tur-
quoise.
The skirt of this costume was of deep
leaf brown velvet, untrimmed, and cut
bell shape with a full wave-like effect
about the hem in front, and the back
stitfened with hairclOth to fall in
straight outward lines. Over it hung
a long two-pointed tablier drapery. V
shaped back and front. of crepe cloth
in a paler leaf tint. This vas heavily
bOrdered with a Persian embroidery,
introducing the two leaf shades and the
turquoise stones.
The round bodice Of the crepe cloth
had a seamless back and huge gigOt
sleeves, and coming from the right
under-arm seam vas a girdle scarf of
the crepe that passed under the blouse
and fastened at the left waist line in a
full chou.
To be worn with this toilet, charm
ing in spite of its fantastic tendency,
was a short square cape of the deep leaf
velvet lined with turquoise satin.
Along with this eostume-which, by
the way, is to be part of the trousseau
of an early winter bride-was a smart
Louis XIV. jacket of striped yellow
and black satin, to be worn with a
black net-trimmed bengaline skirt.
The full house vest Of this Jacket. |
which was intended exclusively for
the theater, was of white mousseline
de sole fastened at the throat and waist
line with a long narrow jet buckle.
\ rich jet beading also outlined the |
revers and deep square cuffs. and
it was lined throughout with yellow |
silk. Another exquisitelv dainty
garment in this trousseau was a Had
ing evening gown of stiff ashes of roses
silk and short draped sleeves Of point
d'Alencon.
For this same rousseau another ex-
frock has been prepared. 1t is
Of heavy watered silk of creamy
tint, the only gErniture being a hugely |
big canary-colcred bow at the bottom
of the skirt on the left side. The bod
was of the same material as the
skirt. made III the Louis Treize fashion.
The corsage was low, the shoulders
sloplng effect and trimmed with a fall
OF point lace. About the waist was a
belt OF rlc- cut jet two inches wide
and fastener at the left side with a
smaller canarv-colored watered silk
riooon DOW. The voluminous pulled
sleeves We're finished at the arm with
2 oano OF the same jet as the belt