New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-03-11

Az IMPORTER TELLS SOME INTERESTING FACT
EEGARpISG 'T,scARGOTs"

AZ IMPORTER TELLS SOME INTERESTING FACTS
ErGAKpfNG 'TsCARGOTs."
The growing popularity % saails as del'cacy
on the tables % private ci,.zens ana res;aut"h'S
Of Scw-Yorl. IS due mainly 20 The French people
OF the city Every Paris chef s a lover OF oscar
g0,s-hc dlsllkes - call Thorn by The ordinary name
o., snalls-and "A firm believer IN their many virtues
az m articl, Of diet. Few 4 any. firms have done
g, much 20 bring about their use by the Americans
as the M1uquin Restaurant and Wine Company
Of 80 li9 Fulton-st. this city, ouc of The largest
Importers In the country.
six or seven years ago" said Henry +. Mou-
ou.n a. member 90 me firm. To q Tribune reporter
tine other day. 'the people of tris country hardly
knew anything OF snails as an article %. diet and
a table delcncy Sow however. import between
2oCco and 30c0 week as long aa the season lasts
About hnlg OF these remain IN N"v-N ork while
the other half is TO various places IN the coun
try san Francisco Los Angeles and other Can
fornla cities many moro Of thom In proportion
H. their size than this city This is due mainly To the
FAC, that many French citizens us" In that part OF
the United States .inaiis ara worth ~ commerce
about s. a hundred Iiy the slime the chef IS ready
10 place them on The table o; the gourmet. how
eyer-owing 10 the rare dollhouse herbs used IN
cooking thom-thcy expensive lUXury. Pre-
uarei "a BourCulsnon1c- ready FOR th'
tabe-they can be purchased a. about ~ cents a
dozen.
'rhc senson now Is almos; over Tor snais. IT
ends AS soon rs warm weather comes After IN"
middle of March they are not eaten much We
begin to them rule. about the middle OF
November. soon after tn cod, frosty weather
ic.,ne Tho b.st snail In the world come from the
vincvnrds OF HurCundv The soil there has iarG"
~ 10, mrny,,b and -eprodlction Thev climb mp on
Inc vines when the leaves are out, and grow rat
from eating them. In tn" tall OF the year the
,nfneu and children rs n rule. pick them from the
ines and put th"m H. some open ground. fenced
of however. To Keep them from running AVA
should IL happen 10 become warm As soon ms me
FROST nppcars they Withdraw within their shells
Tor the winter II q warm spell comes again. how
th.v will run away. paradoxical az that may seem
They can be thrown together IN masses several
iron, Five acres of Vineyards In Burgundy. with
out any effort on the part oi the owners, VIII pro
duce from 500 10 800 snalIs a year. 5000 ones
also come from bordeaux and other parts or
France. Switzerland and parts OF lthiy' put the'
a r, not large or palntahlc.
When they are thrown into the open space"
added MIR Moqun hey are ready for tb tne MARIE market
and other distant places packed IN cas-, cases partly
shipped in ordinary baskets or barrels az oysters
Thev must be kept cool. however or they VIII
IT remember the experience OF one OF the i'm
porters with first shipment The snails we're sent
10 the public stores, and In the warm atmosphere
there they began to think they were again IN
sunny France. As soon ms the cise was Opened
parts of the house. The inspector was In despair
lie did not know how to classify them; but finally
found they not dutnble For weeks after the
case had left the stores the men about the place
found the little animals under almost every nox
their experience with that shipment
When Mr.. Mouquin was asked IN regard 10 the
beat WAYS 10 cool. snails. he quickly answered. a
In Iourgingnonnc and Ia Bordelaise. ana called
First OF all said the ng-mustached chef, put
the snalls IN cold water. shell and all Tor twenty
four hours This dissoves the rhaky matter In the
shell more or less. Then place them In warm
water for half an hour They should then he
drawn from the shell and placed in deep pan
and boiled for three hours with carrots, thyme ana
laurel leaves for flavor. Then put them back IN
the shell close the openings with paste OF cracker
dust butter garlic, cerfeu echaottes. chives and
estragon. Then bake them for two minutes over
IL very hot fire. ~ , 4. M
before I'm cold and not water draw II from the smell
and boil It, as In the other style, slowly iheh pour
over IL n wine sauce favored with eschalottes ana
garlic Then hold II for few minutes IN n sauce
nan over a very hot fire Italians often hdd mush-
rooms These are the best ways to COOK snailN
MIR Mouuuin says that no American snails' as far
as he knows, are eaten. IL might he POSSIBLE, now
eyer TO grow the foreign snails here IN soil with
n sufficiently large percentage OF lime IN Bur
pn,ndv suas are supposed be an excellent diet
Tor naumpiIyes