The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-03-04
TIE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Some Practical Suggestions For Early
Spring Gowns.
Guieter Suitings and Crepe Cloths.
Spring Promises Moderation in All
Things-An Overskirt That is Be-
coming-A New Cape or Two.
Copyright


Things-An Overskirt That is Be-
coming-A New Cape or Two.
Copyright
New York March 3.-Fashion's wheel
turned gayly when the light, airy imprac
teal spring materials were on top, but
now it rolls more slowly to show the
quieter, more sensible ones that are Just
beginning to show themselves. Here
come, first, the lovely pale suitings in silk
and wool-no stripes-iust clear, pale
ground, quantity and closely dotted with
indeAnable figures and lines. In some,
the dots suggest foreign color, which
must be brought out in the trimming. For
instance, a fawn that suggests pink has
dottings of both these shades, lightly in
terspersed with a delicate bit of blue here
and there.
The French suitings have clearer and
stronger dashes of silk over; they are par
ticUlarly serviceable in the clear browns
and olives. Scotch suitings are heavier,
ana make excellent gowns for both
spring and early summer. These show a
notified surface, with dull blue spots
, merging into white; gray green into pinky
white; darker green into paler shades.
These suitings are made into plain, full
skirts that clear the ground well, and are
four yards wide. The Jackets are shorter
than those OF last year, and all show a
vest or waistcOat beneath, They are
| made up severely plain, with even the
pretty lace effect at the throat exchanged
for linen collar and crayat. Rows of
stitching finish the edges, and the reVers,
sharply pointed fall well over the sleeves,
which show some moderation of the pre-
posterously large puff we have been wear
ing
In fact, from the present indications,
it would seem that the cry OF "modera-
ton, moderation :" will at last be needed,
and that we shall do little more this
spring than tone down some of our most
alarming whims and extravagances. The
blouse as it has come TO US this spring,
SHOWS no change from the blouse of last
year; the short jacket is perhaps a little
shorter, and a little rounder, the revers a
tribe more pointed, but what of that2
The sleeves droop a little more. and make
their puff a little smaller; the skirt is
perhaps a little narrower. And when
these have been said, is there anything
more to add}
Aye, the oversight. Is it making any,
prOgress2 Sometimes it makes a great
stride by the tasteful form in which it
appears; at other times its progress is
woetully retarded by the lack of anything
E "
brown suiting with long, square apron
effect in front, elongating itself into
sharp points at each side, falls in most
unprepossessing folds; while a dainty one
in soft green was the prettiest thing l
had seen for a long time. The skirt be-
meath was edged with a twelve inch band
of rich eminence velvet, which in its turn
was edged with a band of white MORE,
embroidered with gold. The oVerskirt of
a pretty green was cut in sharp points all
around, each point falling over the band
of white and gold work at the bottom.
The overskirt had been cut so full that it
fell in large godet between each point.
The bodice was of the same green cloth,
made very simply. yoke of the white
and gold formed half of it, and the lower
half was made from the gathered folds of
the green, banded by white MORE and
gold belt. A very tiny figaro jacket in the
purple velvet of the skirt met over
the bust and then turned back
in broad revers that were faced
with white MORE. The sleeves were all
in green gigot. Such gown could not
fail to recommend the over skirt and If
Paris sends us many more such dresses,
its fate will not remain longer in sus-
pense.
The blouse effects, and the long coat
effects, are being introduced into the robe
d interieur as well as the street gown.
With gauZy materials the severe lines
may be softened, and judicious drape
falling over will change completely the
tailor made look of the coat gown. This
dress, which startedlplainly and severely,
was suddenly changed into one suitable
for home wear only, when the crepe
sleeve pulfs and blouse drapery had been
added, The skirt was a simple, unpre-
tentious one, divided as it was into four
portions by the narrow bands Of black
velvet that ran up and down, from waist
to foot, meeting another velvet
band that edged the skirt, the
plain bodice and single band of the
velvet running straight down the middle
OF the front. Over the bodice was a
loose blouse of white crepe, which showed
daintily through its thin folds the soft
green OF the dress beneath. The blouse
was long and full, falling well over the
hip and hiding the bodice altogether in
the back. In front, however, the crepe
was gathered closely together at the
shoulder seam, but gradually spreading
as it neared the waist-line it stretched
out to its fullest extent below the plain
black velvet belt which confined it. Here
it was cut up over the hips. The broad
green collar, falling over the crepe at the
back, was also cut into divisions. The
portion that fell over the pretty gauze
sleeve puds was divided off like the skirt
with the velvet bands.
OTHER NOVELTIES IN CREPE CLOTH.
More varieties in the delicate crepe
cloths have reached US. These show the
stripes much finer and closer, green
that is both serviceable and dainty is in
dull. dark shade of light texture and has
minute, close satin stripe running
through over its crinkled surface dull
blue has heavy twisted cords in pink and
white, forming the stripe gray is dotted
blue; while a thin silk crepon forms it.