davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
THE NOVEL HEROINE TO-DAY.
A Woman Far Superior to Her Prcdc-
cesSOr OF Half n Century AGO,

cesSOr OF Half n Century Ago.
From the Philadelphia Call
There Is no greater indication Of the adj
Vancement OF the day than the women one
meets In the novels he reads. To be sure,
one meets with many women in novels who
are coarse beyond description, and I'M
doubtedy belong to a class to which he
would not introduce his mother or sister.
and from contact with whom he would de-
cidedly prefer to keep his wife, but, then,
one unfortunately meets them everywhere
Besides, these are not the true heroines-
they are merely creatures who have been
raised to fictitious value for the moment
by reason OF some prevailing fad, and have
managed to foist themselves upon respect
able society just 1t not uncommonly
happens in real life.
But the woman We mean is strong and
true and good. She is by means the
mandy pamby creature of half a century
ago. She does not sit and fold her hands
disdaining to lift so much as her handker-
chief. nor does she faint at the sight Of
blood like "a broken lily on the STEM" nor
have to be helped over every stone that is
more than two inches in diameter. And
her appetite If she had no other virtue
her appetite would be her saving grace. She
eats three good square meals a day and en-
joys them, ard IL necessary, she devours a
fourth without a tinge Of shame rising to
her cheek.
slender and languid. pale and ethereal deli
cate and helpless. A spider would throw
them into a fit, cut finger cause them to
faint. And these are the women We were
low curIs" and sweet "amiabIe" faces All
this indicates most clearly decided
change in the opinions of man. Men may
deny 1t and women may hout the idea
but the fact remains that men form The
Characters of the women around them far
more than the reverse.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

gown OF covert cloth gives it's welrer value
received every t-me-providei, of course.
II Is made to fit exquiSitely. y dress that
sets badly is never Z serviceable gown,
because the Wearer falls out with it on
the first wearing. and tires of il long be-
fore 1t is ready to be rem0deled. II Is al
ways ecC noIny to get the best in such ma
ter!als as serge and covert cloths, because
then one viii feel impellei to take them to
a reputable cutter and filter, and the sat
isfactiOD that good fit engea6ers eadea rs
gown TO one 50 that at least one making
over is assured. Whip cords are shown
In solid cOlorS and melange effects. They
do not differ materially from those worn
last season, and every woman who has
ever worn Il whip cord tailor-made gown
knows them to be seTviceable. Among the
cheaper woods. all the last falls weaves are
duplicated. the Only difference being that
there are a few new shades among the
browns, greens ana blues.
Some Favorite Dress Materials.
Silk viii be prime favorite through the
fall anyhow, and probably on through the
winter for ceremonious occasions. All the
corded silks are again in evidence. Gros
grain has been quite restored to favor after
long retirement An Oddly that / saw
in shop where some new cases were just
being opened is silk woven in s,cks about
two inches square: one block is plain black
gros grain, ana the other is satin with a
brocaded flower in it. The effect is bold in
tire extreme IL may do to combine with
other fabIlcs-namely, plain woods, but for
a whole gown-wel. I'D like to see the wo-
man who could wear it and not look
brazcn in II. Satin striped gros grains are
pretty novelty. One in inch wide stripe
of pink gros grain, with inch wide stripes
of black s1tia, WAS simply exquisite 1t
was as thick as q board AMI as lustrous
rs could be. Fabrics Ike that need no
garniture- Rrocadci taffetas are shown,
and in combination with some other ma
tertal will make handsome gowns. By
themselves they ere rather light for fall
wear. BeDgaGueS are as popular rs ever
aad 50 are the satin duchesse, psau de
seize and plain satin. Plain satin is m1re
particularly for elderly pcJs,e More is no
longer priced for gowns. The abomin1-
ti0ns III the cheap r1oires that were thrown
on the market drove the real fabric from
the foil as n dress fabric. 1t is useI in
fssh,oninc; long fitted coats, ard if of the
sterling quality makes an elegant garment
1t Will be uSei for sleeves and lapcis, but
not for gowns. at least not as largely as
K was last winter
1t is rather early yet to talk Of evening
gowns. but las; Seasons supply is crushed
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

The young lady pictured in the next
sketch is a little rowdy, and her mother
provides aprons which are peculiarly adapt
ed to the rough usage they receive. The
Illustration gives a very clear idea of the
general style. and unless the small -wearer
is dressed" and under the vigiiant eye of
her mother. they are invariably of light
bingham and percale in white grounds with
large plaids of pin stripes in dark blue,
pink or black. The pattern is a simple
Mother Hubbard, with yoke slightly round
ed and large rutfies about the armholes
Quite frequently.in order to vary the monot-
2ny, the rufties are of embroidery, and n
cash confines the fullness in the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

The next drawing shows a pretty cos.
tune Tor the girl who has just outgrown
the spron period. Any lightweight
WOODEN goods may be used advantageously,
but those showing a small stripe or figure
are. as rule, The most serviceable, The
pattern is so simple in construction and
stylish in effect that any Recommendation
IN its favor seems unnecessary.
The pointed yoke, empire girdle, wrist
bands and epaulette edging are OF deem
brown velvet, while the rest of the prett y
gown is of golden brown serge showing at
wide intervals very tiny stripe, or. rather,
hair Hue, OF crimson silk. The skirt fits
tightly across the front, but is slightly
gored on the sides and drawn in fun gath
ers at the back Its only decoration IS the
wide hem, with stitching overlaid by a
single row of very narrow brown velvet
ribbon. The sleeve rufiles are bordcred with
velvet ribbon; also the width corresponding
to that used on the skirt The waist IS
without other seams than those az the side.
and Is made on the modified blouse" plan
which during the past season has been SO
popular with both young ladies ard chill
dren. The sleeves are very full, and reach
In one pun from shoulder to wrist.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
Dead Cables.
( From the st. Louis Post Dispat

From the st. Louis Post DisIatch.
1t is not generally known that Of the sew.
enteen transatlantic cables laid only seven
are in use. Those who think the tariff for
cable messages are high do not think of the
immense cost Of keeping them in order
and Of the losses incurred in the giving out
of cables. II break occurs 1t is neces.
sary to send a vessel perhaps 1850 to LOO
miles to take up the parted ends and re.
pair them. On land, II wire Is down q
man is sent to repair It. To get electrician
to a broken cable requires a full compile.
rent of ships officers and crew, from can
tain to cabin boy. IN vessel equipped for
pense. Now, the ten cables out Of use are
abandoned permanently. They are too badly
out of fix to be worth getting in shane
again. 1t is conservative estimate IN
place the cost OF laying them at $3,OOO0OO
each. There is $50, 100000 of dead invest.
ment. The risk Of such losses 1egitimately
makes a charge on the books In calculating
the cost Of operating cable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
Language of Finger mills.

from the rhilGdclphia Press.
A white spot On the finger nails indicates
coming misfortune. Pale. dark nails belons.
to melancholy people. while gentle, tiulid.
shrinking natures arc indicated by broad
nails. Round nails Indicate a natural STU
dent ana one Of llberality and thought ana
feeling. Long. narrow nails show ar a-.Si-
tious ard irritable disposition, ana small
white aail3 point 10 sr;allness OF mental
Srasp. ohstinacy ana selt-corecit. Rcl
spotted nailH show n martial, cholcric spirit,
and those which grow Into the fcsh at the
sides ard cciacrs Indicate n luxuriouS taste
liable 10 develop Into laxinees. Very pale.-
hael rails indicate weakness a. chcrs cter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
DUTIES OF a HOSTESS.
A Visitor Sometimes Enjoys being
Let Alone.

From the New York Herald.
There are homes in which you are always
conscious Of your bounden duty To conform
to rules. You feel that. you must get UP to
a . O'Clock breakfast when you have been
accustomed to indulge IN morning maps I'M
I'll Q; you cannot don your wraps ana saun-
ter out to enjoy an hour or two in an art
gallery or a library Of rare books. where
one wants TO invite ones own soul for COM
parionship, without your too soGcItous
hostess urging YOU TO wait till she has or
derei luncheon SO that she may 40 with
you and tell you al about them"
There are homes where the rules are aot
flexible because the makers OF them are
cast iron people. but there are others where
they lack elasticity simply from Tho
family's want Of tact in pleasing those
whom they are anxious to please.
The really hoSp!tab.e house Is the oas
where the guest has been asked TO come
m or6cr that she may be given an unusual
pleasure. and where, for the time being. al
the uncomfortable requirements Of her in-
! dividual home are set aside for a bohemian
freedom and unaccountab!lity.
The young married hostess may chaperon
| without monopolizing the callers OF her
girl guests. She sees these callers IRE
quently In general society, and on many
occasions for n chat. while the visitor. Of
whom they arc also old friends. is only
in town for a brief stay and often groans
inwardiy at having TO sir in enforced silence
while her hcspltable hostess rattles away
the precious moments.
The visitor like the editor, can stand n
good deal of letting alone. or course. II she
be what is called born sightsecr," one
who must be taken nom the crown OF the
Liberty statue 10 the roof garden crushes
she will not want 10 be let nione or TO lei
any one else alone.
To be indifferent about a guests en,or.
! ment is the erossoSt evidence OF III breed
ing and callobs feeling. after extending
an invitation, but far too few people Under
stand the exquisite spirit of hospitality an
DERIVING the greeting OF the Spanish host
ess. when she so greciously says. The
house Is yours. senorita-"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

four-inch band of white and about two
inches higher a strip Of the same mate
rsal, measuring. however, but one inch and
q half in width.
For everyday wear this dainty trimming
Is too easily soiled TO be very serviceable.
but IL may give place most effectively TO
any one of the rich shades of red, which
are SO generally becoming. Or II other
materials be desired the yoke, etc, may
be of velvet, silk or Of the dress goods
itself. trimmed with velvet ribbon or braid
several shades darker in color.
d. W X.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

The last cut shows a very graceful dress
ior girl OF eleven, twelve or thirteen
years. The model was developed In dark
blue flannel, with trimmings Of white
cloth overlaid by rows Of narrow black
SILK braid. The collar and yoke are cut
after the French pattern In one piece cir
cular In shape and decorated with eirciing
bands OF braid. Following the outline OF
the yoke is q frill or rather bertha OF white
cut as shown in the drawing. and having
two rows OF braid all along the edge. The
bodice itself is q full blouse gathered into a
belt OF ribbon. striped white. which trim
ming Ia again used for the lower sleeve
About the edge Of the full round skirt - a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

ard almost passe, and 1t is getting ;ate
FOR thin muslin ones, yet there are many
little affairs being given to which one
would like to wear ii new gown IL IL did
rot cost too much Here is a pretty one
tEat almost any one could make in a fcv-
hours. For the slip or under body and
skirt take one Of last seasons gowns some
light or bright color If you have it. If no
color Is available take one OF your old
white ones. Rip all the trimming off the
bodice and the tail Of the skirt and make
e walking length If the slip Is white put
3 facing Of cream point de Venise around
The bottom and turn up on the outside
Or you can put one. two or three ruffies
on IL Of the lace or of the silk just as seems
70 come handiest. For the overskirt and
waist covering get some delicate shade of
chtfon-pale green over white was the
one / saw-ard It was lovely. Make a long
full skirt Of the chiffon. rounding It up a
little shorter at the sides. and finishing
with full rufIie of the same. or If you
happen TO have a lot OF lace that will do
u viii be charming addition A. usA that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

seams to the point of the v. From this
yoke or body the skirt hangs straight and
full to the edge of the dress skirt From
Just under the arms sash is drawn and
tied in full loops with long ends. The gen.
eral style Is very quaint and picturesque,
and If made of very sheer lawn, with ruff
file of delicate embroidery or heavy lace, is
quite as pretty for festive occasions as a
dainty dress,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

Cover the bodice with folds of the chiffon
or puffs and put all the rest of the chiffon
into the puffs on the sleeves. Gather some
lace around the low neck so that IT will
shoulder in epaulette fashion. Right in
the center of the back put a rabbits ear
bow of black velvet, and have black
velvet belt with short ends IN front If you
have an old red silk it win make up into
an elegant gown combined with black chif-
fon. Cream white silk and pearl white
chiffon is very effective also The chiffon
so hides The old silk that the dress seems
quite new, and the expense is small for
as pretty a creation as it turns out.
a lovely visiting gown sent out by q
mcdiste last week is of dark gray brocaded
SIX, with an odd combination of black
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

The second picture shows a little maid
whose apron is almost too ''fixy" for every
day school wear. but which is admirably
suited to feast days and holidays" when
something a little more dressy than usual
is required. The side forms are cut in
princess shape and slightly gored, so as to
fit srrgly under the arms, then across the
front is a full breadth of linon, daintily
shirred at the top. The length of this FROM
breadth Is several inches shorter than the
Sides so that a square opening is left about
the neck. The back corresponds exactly to
the front, except that at the waist line
moderately wide sash ends are sewed into
the side seams. These ends should be long
and wide enough to tie In generous loops.
with trds reaching to the edge of the skirt.
A very stylish and altogether decorative
feature is the shoulder frills of hemstitched
linon, which fall down over half of the
dress sleeve. giving an extremely dainty
air of completeness and elaboration.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

word to those who must buy carefully and
for long service In less than a month You
VIII hate bcucie gown IL you have to
wear 1t constantly. 1t catches everything
that Is lying around loose. 1t pulls at every
opportunity. AMI makes a good many. Con-
sequently, 1t is not long until boucle
gown has to be literally sheare1 to make 1t
look presentab,e at ALL If you do not go
over IL every time you put 1t on. it soon
getc to looking like an uncombed skye
terrier.
Serge will be as popular as ever. 1t comes
more coarsely twilled, and with wider
wales 1t is in both solid colors and two
toned diaGonels. These will be quite the
favorites for tabernacle gowns during the
autumn One can never fail to have
serviceabie gown IL serge is the material
employed Covert suitinss will vie with
sers-- They are very smoothly finished
ard as tastrous as wool sateens. A tailor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
In the Sanctum.

Editor-"fou say you wrote all these Jokes
yourself?'
Would-be contrbutor-"Yes, sirY'
Editor-'Then you mus be as old as Me-
thuselah"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07
The Latest Styles and Materials for
Ladies' Wear.
SILK WILL Be 4 PRIME FAVORITE
Pretty and Graceful Designs for
Evening and Visiting Gowns.
A LIGHT AUTUMN CAPE
Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.

OCCLES AXE 10
be great favorites
again this autumn.
They come in all col
ors, usually a solid
back OF one, and the
RAISED figures in the
contrasting color.
Navy blue. W / I r
knots of gold, is enc
of the favoE.tss. Red
with black loops is
a n o I h er. E0ucleS
make an elegant
looking gown, but a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

A good old Scotch housewife says that h
fahnelS never shrink, and IL is because S
washes them in cold water. Size puts the
in clean cold soap suds and washes them
rectiy, then she puts them through a secol
suds, and rinses them in cold water al
hangs them out to dry without wringil
them at all. She never washes flannels
rainy or cloudy day, but always waits (
sunshine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-07-07

When you notice a whistling, wheeling
sound In your little child soon after It has
Custer weekly chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, S.D.) 1890-1931, 1894-05-26
THE TABERNACLE FIRE.
Origin Of the Flames a Much Disputed
Question.

Origin of the Flames a Much Disputed
Question.
n Ew YORK, May 19.-Electrical ex-
perts still contend that the fire in
the Brooklyn tabernacle on 5 unday did
not originate in the resistance box"
Of the organ, but the org anmaker and
tuner adhere TO the view that it did.
Edward Jardine, a member Of the firm
that built the organ, testified before
Deputy Fire Commissioner Clarence A.
Barrow that the slightes spark would
set the delicate frame work of track
ers" and organ reeds on fire, but
gave it as his opinion that the blaze
originated downstairs under the plat
form. Organist Henry f. Browne
holds to the view that the fire was Of
%incendiary origin. While under exam
nation by Mr. Barrow he gave it as his
deliberate belief that the organ was
set on fire by some person, who escaped
through the cellar entrance on Greene
avenue. He said he had seen the
shadow of a man behind the organ five
minutes before the fire and had heard
footsteps descending into the cellar.
Trustee Leonard Moody, ex-senator
James Birkett aud Sexton James A.
Dey do not incline to this theory.
They believe the fire was accidental.
Custer weekly chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, S.D.) 1890-1931, 1894-05-26

Oas Esperlence Among the Poor Peo


Oas EsperIencc Among the Poor People
Of Boston.
There was an old lady who could mo-
have been less than IS, who was sewins
briskly oil a quilt and wore no specta
cles.
y "Why, you're as smart rs any of tn,
younger folks, auntie," ! exclaimed
@How old are youp".
Excuse me" she said. with a it'll,
smile on her face, which must hay,
been beautiful once, and, indeed, wa
pretty now, with its childish pink anS
white complexion. delicate features
dark eyes. and snowy hair. "but ] neveI
tell my age to anybody"
could hardly keep from laughing a
what seemed q matter of ~pride-her ag
was 81 apparent-and then the though
came that she was not quite right in he
mind. Her next words. however, whicl
she whispered in explanation, were pa
thetic enough.
"You see," she said. ,@if I told my ag
they would take me of to the work
house. They don't think that old pee
pie are any use to themselves or any
body else, and l don't want to 60. r,
sooner die first--Td sooner die first
I'm smart, ven If ! am old, and l neve
had to ask charity before. I've Away
paid my rent until this winter. and
can't tell you how thankful / am to tn
dear Lord and all the good people VIII
have let us do this work. Everybod,
has been SO good TO me. My landlad,
Is a Roman Catholic and l am q Prot
estant, and we have disputed about N
ligion. and / expected she'd want IN,
room this winter when | couldn't pa,
the rent. But she made the rent hal
a. much as it had been before, and toll
me not to pay II until ! could get som
work.. Wasn't that kind Of herP"
1Ah. auntie,"I said. you see Chrl
tan kindnsas y not = matter Of cresde
Custer weekly chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, S.D.) 1890-1931, 1894-05-26
A New Word.

When nee Maud began to 60 to
school she was the naughtiesl 81 schol-
airs. She was naughty in SO reckless a
way that Hilda, her sister, W. years
older than she, became heartily ashamed
of her. Maud occasionally talked aloud
in class; she made such absurd faces
that even the teacher was forced 10
smile and she cherished SO hearty a love
for recess that il was difficult to induce
her to come in when the quarter hour
was over.
As she was a very little girl and quite
unused to rules or punishments no very
severe measures were taken with her.
But Hilda had at last borne all she
could.
Mamma" she said one day when she
came home, with tears in her eyes,
-mayn't Maud give up going to school
till she knows how TO behave better?:'
"But | hope she will learn by going"
SAID her mother. 1--WE must have
patience, you know"
But, mamma, she does things that
are just awful and everybody knews she
is my sister and I am so ashamed"
well, Hilda, | think we must keep
on doing u best and just help her to
be good"
ooh, I'd do that" said Hilda, two
tears stealing down her checks. I'm
not tired of Maud O her naughtiness,
but, mamma, ! am tired of being so
conspicuated by her!"-Youth's Com
Ddnt0n
Custer weekly chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, S.D.) 1890-1931, 1894-05-26

A tent OF tho knights OF the Maccabees
has just been organized at Ackley with 9
large membership. The new division OF
the Uniform Rank X. OF p. will be insti
tuted within "A few days.
There have been two eases and ono
death In u family at Abbot from diph
iberia The result OF the action of a local
physician in raising the quarantine
claiming that the disease was not diph.
liberia, has resulted in a lumber Of Ell.
posures. The state board of health has
taken hold Of the matter and every pos.
sible %precaution will be taken to prevent
the spread OF the disease.
Parties from Wellspurg have been kill
ing fish in the Iowa river south of Iowa
Falls. The matter has been referred ia
the state fish commissioner Inc will be in.
vestigated.
The Second Brigade band Of Eldora viii;
go to Spirit Lake July 10 to PLAY during
the Knights Templars encampment. which
is to be held there that week. This is the
second year that the band has officiated
at the annual encampment.
Custer weekly chronicle. [volume] (Custer City, S.D.) 1890-1931, 1894-05-26
THE CHAMPION GROWER.
He Has a Record of 331 Crows nm Hour
Training Methods.

He Has a Record OF 337 Crows an Hour
Training Methods.
A curious poultry show is being or
ganized in Paris. The principal feat
uro of it will be the championship COM
petition for Growing ROSTERS That is
10 say, the bird hat crows the loudest,
the longest and the greatest number of
times in q given period will take the
prize.
The champion cock Of France is a
little bantam hailing from the neigh
borhood of Soraing. He is on record as
having crowed no less than 327 times
In one hour.
Training requires a great deal OF
care, especially just before competition
takes place, since, unless proper pre-
cautions are adopted, the rooster is apt
to exhaust his voice before the tourna.
ment
The training consists, as a rule, in
placing the candidates for honors in a
cage in the midst Of a circle of other
cages, each containing a cock. The
one In h center sounds a first strident
note, and thereupon those around him
respond and the concert Is kept up. the
birds each e~ndeavoring TO outcrow the
other.