Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1894-01-05

NOVELTIES IN WOOLENS Fer WINTER GOWNS.
slightly conventional design. But when
the material is folded it has 4 peculiarly
light and almost lacelike effect, though the
small flowers are set over an inch apart.
Black and white in the trying stripes
have not proved as popular ;,s it was hoped
they would be, but black and white in
these dainty designs have = brighter out.
look. They are made up in palmer styles
than almost any of the winter goods, and
will be worn for ceremonioas calls and for
extra handsome general Wear. The mate
rial is what is called dead fine; and is s.!
inches wide. All first class goods are now
made wide, even to the best silks.
There are some new effects in c~ravanettes.
and they are chiefly obtained by new color
lngs. Cravanettes are rainprOof and yet
porous, and no dust can sift through them.
They can be found now in navy, brown,
myrtle green, gray, mocha coffee, castor
beaver and black, and they are not heavy,
but a genuine comfort in every way. There
are several new things in plaids, the pref
test being where the ground is dull blue,
with a sort of basket weave in fawn lines,
woven so that the whole pattern is bias,
and this is made up on the straight, which
leaves the pattern bias, without sagging or
bagging, as so many plaids do when cut bias.
Astraight plaid is not becoming to many,
but the bias to every one.
A very ladylike gown was made up of
this pretty goods and stood in the window
OF q famous store up town. There wal a
trimming of fancy castle braid around the
empire skirt, about 10 inches from the bot
tom, of shaded brown braid. Fourteen rows
of brown soutache went around the upper
~or% - %lo IT. 80 49, - L.
sprung basque. This was made entirely
plain, with no trimming but one row of
the shaded braid. The sleeves also had the
same soutache from wrist to elbow. There
were plain caps to the puffed sleeves.
l forgot to mention one made up costume
of the dainty black and white brocade. This
had a plain five gored skirt, with no trim
ming whatever. The waist was a simple
French one, with a black velvet belt and a
large black velvet ripple bertha and cuffs
of the same. This made a very taking
gown. The cravanette can be made up in
any style, but a very useful and decidedly
genteel one is to make it as a redingotc.
with a postiche cape that can be added at
any moment. The waist is cut off in front
and fitted to the figure with darts and fin
ished with six large bone buttons, while
the collar revers and left side are bordered
with a narrow band of gray astrakhan.
That is when the color is adapted, but if
! otherwise the black %astrakhan should be
used. The cape can have a ripple or but
terfy collar, or a capuchin, if preferred.
This makes a garment of exceeding utilit. +,
and it looks we'll as long as a thread is left.
The overskirt has certainly come to stay,
and it is seen on all sorts of gowns-on
dancing frocks as well as on street attire.
The underskirt, if the goods are thick, does
not reach all the way up, but is made on a
thin lining which goes to the waist. The
overskirt falls some distance below the
seam, so that no one but another woman
could tell that it was a sham skirt. Tie
lower skirt is rarely trimmed, and the up
per one is Topped but slightly if at all.
When there is any looping, it is done at the
sides. In some cases the lower skirt is of a
different material or color.
The ~favorite way to trim these is by means
of matte or hercules braid, or by a band of
silk or velvet, with two rows of silver SOU