davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

posed In three folds on the lower part
OF the sleeve There is the slashed
sleeve, cut open just trifie. II you
VIII, showing a bright contrast be-
tween; or cut a great deal with the
cuts edged with lace. You will also be
attracted by the graceful puff that is
caught up at the center with n rosette
Sometimes the upper puff falls over
the lower cuff in embroidered or
braided points; sometimes the sleeve is
pulled one in five sections. the nusfs
decreasing as it falls
The following hints may be of some
small service TO the home dressnaker.
The dress sleeve with draped effect.
sloping into the tight cuff, twelve inch
size, requires three and a quarter
yards of twenty-one inch wide materi-
al or two yards OF forty-twO inch ma
terial. 1t has q two-pieced lining, fit
ting closely from hand to elbow. After
the outside seam of the lining has been
closed, the material is arranged over
it. The material has no seam on the
outside, but fits smoothly as far up as
the elbow above which the gathers
hang.
The scanned leg-o'-mutton requires
three and n eighth yards of material
that is twenty-one inches wide and one
yard and half forty-two inches wide
This pattern has also q fitted lining
and the under uort of the material is
The same as the under part of the lin
ing-wrinkleless under the arm On
the upper side the lower part is fitted
smoothly also, while the gathers above
are disposed in the top and both side
seams
For trimming, lace braid and narrow
bands or bracelets continue 10 be
worn The bracelets may be of velvet
silk. ribbon braid or jet, and they en-
circle the lower edge of the balloon or
empire puff either above or below the
elbow.
The evening sleeve is quite as full.
often. requiring three widths Of silk:
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

there are thousands OF smokers who
have yet to learn how to buy pipe.
They invest again and again, and
every purchase proves disappoint-
ment. There promises to be an army
of dissatisfied this year. Of course the
meerschaum continues the superior of
all others for the purpose of smoking
tobacco, owing to its wonderful abb
sorbing qualities. All efforts to find
an adequate substitute for it have com
pletely failed. Not the least among its
destinations is the rapture 1t affords
the smoker during the process of col
oring, through its absorption of nicO-
tine and tobacco oil There is safe
guard in this characteristic of meer-
schaum. moreover. The poisonous
element contained in the tobacco is
absorbed by the meerschaum. instead of
being inhaled into the system of the
smoker. an evil not to be avoided when
a absorbing material is smoked.
ONLY second to meerschaum this year
as an absorbent is briar root. So great
has been the demand for it, owing to
the large supply of pipes brought into
prices of the raw commodity are ruling
unusually high. The best briar root is
dubbed French briar," and comes
principally from the borders Of France
and Italy. In the mountainous dis
tricts of those countries roots are dug
out which have grown for ages and are
sometimes larger than mans body,
weighing hundreds OF pounds
The wood thus obtained is remark
ably beautiful and very pleasing in
appearance. Some smokers prefer 1t
20 raeerschaum itself and it's alb
sorbent properties are certainly very
great Three large deposits of the
root have just been discovered in
France. and the price may brought
down in time, although the manutac-
.urers are accused of a conspiracy to
corner the market
Other woods much used this season
are weichsel. apple. violet and some
others, but they cannot be deemed
very desirable. They are not very
durable and crack easily.
Few smokers know that pipe may
so very well outdoors and prove IN
pleasant At home. Open sir smoking
is most satisfactory when meer-
sehaum is used. 4 moderate smoker
should use thin, small pipe. At home
and for elderly smokers. a bowl Is most
satisfactory. Another thing 10 be re-
uembered IS that ten different quail
tiles Of meerSchaum now come into the
market IN the raw state. The best is
quite expensive. All meerschaum, how
/ ever. should color nicely and av-
srage meer>chaum should be as ab-
sc-hcnt IS the best. its defects consist
.ng II flaws here and there ike those
In second or third water diamond
The fashionable pipe Is now short
and patterned somewhat after the bull
dog type to which the prince OF Wales
~ lovingly clngs- The nlou;hpieee l.
of amber. but bone and horn are quite
permissible and very much cheaper.
Indeed, many very wealthy smokers
prefer bone because II i softer. and
while Il wears away rapidly can -
cheaply replaced B-iar i stylish but
does not replace mserschsun ~ any
. means The mouihDiece should .each
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

NIIDE|s STUDYING. meDt. INSPIRED,
no doubt, by his close friendship with
Chauncey VI. Depew, benjamin Harri-
son and other statesmen OF influence,
was. that he was after Office. This. like
wise Is rash assumption. MIR. Wilder
wants no Office. The young man is far
more serious by nature than most per-
sons would suppose who have oPportu-
mites to judge him Only by the merry
sayings he Is perpetuaiiy guilty of. He
is very shrewd man OK business, and
manages several gooi-sized properties
that he has succeeded in acquiring
with great profit to himself. Such men
as Moses 7. Handy and John A. Cocker
Ill have great confidence in his judg-
ment on serious questions, and follow
his advice into the bargain.
Wilder lives with his father n New
York now. and has hosts Of adrnirers
among the fair sex. Indeed. tits with
women that his fame s greatest, and
some of the most exclusive society
danes in the metropolis think he Is a
darling because he can mimic Bow
cry tough so faithfully. II is even al
legged that he has made boon COM
panion of one noted slum hero in order
To study the ways of that inimita Die
character, the New York tough.
DAVID WECRSER-
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25
VIVA. He wanted

At the hospital the other morning
saJs Life. one e. the patients vas Jus.
recOvering from 81 attack q deliriEE1
treDens, and. g. u usual in such cases.
desired 70 dress and 20 hone more thAD
snything else IL haPP~ned that one
0. TIE yorung ladies connected with ths
foeer raiAss0n sax him. and. ayproAeh-
inS. said Il have zone beautiful rOses
here wouldn't yoa ike so1s7- 10
Response Again sbe sad "HoCldn't
yor Ike 20 have some Il these ru~~s7>
Slowly his bead turned. and. slightly
opening hks bist-y eyes. - ssi1- rar-h
- the aSnbarrss1-1sat q :hs rcuay
woman. I'D blamed SGT; r4taer
have Nv r4zzts-
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

kand-tou collier hove in sight of Point
Iona, and, in the masters eagerness
TO make port that afternoon. he ran in
too close before taking pilot, and
found himself being forced upon 2an-
inga shoal, OFF the harbor mouth. Miss
Polhemus was the only available pilo,
ut that moment She was put aboard
the collier, and gave the captain g
dressing down in queens English be-
cause of his carelessnesS The cap.
tains eyes were opened TO the fact that
unless speedy action was taken his
ship would be lost At the girls order
all hands were put 10 shortening sail.
She stood by the wheel, and soon had
the ship on another course, although
the situa ton was so grave that she had
20 wear ship under most trying condi-
tons In order 20 get an offing until tho
ocean subsidized and the harbor could
be entered in safety. The girl sLCippa.r
amazed the grateful captain. She gave
the bluff old EngliShman soms new
ideas concerning the capacity Of an
American girl
When Miss Polhemus gets her pilots
certificate her fees for bringing in
vessel will be s. per foot on tho
draught Of vessel and I cents per
ton A 3,Oooton ship, drawing 20 feet.
would pay the pilot SEQ. The pilots
have a lookout station on Point Iona,
and. unless a vessel is expected during
the night, their trim schooncrs can lie
in their berths inside the point. and
put 10 sea only when a vessel IL sight
ed II Is not necessary for them 20
cruise up and down the coat. "a Do tbs
New York UilOts
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

OF nervous temperament and calcu-
lated to soothe restless smokers.
Among pipes that are probably des-
tined to have history is the Shakes
peare pipe. Upon it is carved the
Banquo scene in the play of Macbeth
when the pair met the witches on their
way to the battlefield. The structure
of this smoking article is highly elab-
crate aud the prince of poets himself.
is represented in theatrical attitude on
the lid of the bowl But this wonder
full pipe has its peers In various other
unusual specimens which almost COM
prise a volume of history in the detail
carved upon them. One interesting
specimen has all the presidents heads
upon it. Another is practically a his
tory of the civil war. There are also
pipes in which battles like Gettysburg
and Waterloo are represented. The
Napoleonic craze has produced its pipe,
showing the first emperor at Lodi, st.
Helena and at his coronation
1t is possible TO have pipe made 20
order in very short time. Many col
lectors are doing this One old smoker
will not infrequently have his own
countenance wrought in briar wood as
a token OF remembrance to some other
old smoker
Water pipes are more generally used
this year than ever before in the his
tory OF the American trade. The more
elaborate affairs have heavy, ample
bowls with three or four stems The
pipe can then be set down on the floor
or on table while a congenial party
sit around and smoke it Such pipes
require constant attention and need
cleaning daily. II properly used they
afford highly soothing and agreeable
smoke.
The German students pipe Is becon-
ing quite popular with American
smokers It's long stem and detsch-
able mechanism render il a cool pipe
and there Is very little trouble involved
in Eeepiug it clean The most desir-
able makes have a porcelain bowl,
horn pocket and mouthpiece and a
weichsel stem. They are very durable
and improve with age
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25
CALLING TO ARMS
The BewIdering Mazes OF the
Pulled Sleeve.
Sleeves for Day and Evening Wear-They
Need Not Match Your Costume In Ma
terial or CoIor-Fancies for
Evening Wear.
lcoPrRIeBy. Iss4l

We know that lovers and poets de-
light to sing the praises of ''star-like
eyes. rosy checks, coral lips and lily
hands, and tresses like the morn" and
the happy possessor of all or any of
these charms may rest content with
the share of beauty which nature has
epportioned her. But what about the
poor damsel whose every feature is
plain and unattractive, whose tresSes
do not flow luxuriantly over her shout
ders, whose hand isn't of lily white
ness? Must she retire into a corner
and exist without those admiring male
glances that are quite indispensable to
the girl who isn't ''advanced?"
Not always; there is still something
left her. Let her look to her arms If
they are beautiful she need not yet de-
spair. For therein lie wonderful pos
sibilities. The Parisians have been the
first TO realize this, FOR most of their
afternoon gowns are now made with
sleeves that reach only to the elbow
But the American girl is either wiser
or more conservative, for she waits un-
I'll evening 10 bare her arms. Is it that
she breads the glare of the sun for
them or that she shrinks from expos
ing them to too general gaze and re-
serves them for the eye of drawing
-com and ballroom frequenters? Who
can tell?
At any rate we are sure that she is
beginning to bestow more care upon
those p.e.ty arms. If you will go into
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

but IS soft and never stiifencd more
than with lawn. 1t Is an empire puff
or il is a full double short puff of vel
vet that scarcely encircles the shoulder;
or it If triple ruffle, two of lace and q
silk one separating them, or vice versa,
or its puff is made by two or three rows
of shirring below the center; or tho
puff is enhanced by lovely loop that
is knotted at the top and continues in
daring ends; or it is short and accor-
dion plated; or it is closely gathered
with narrow lines running vertically of
velvet TO catch down the gathers; or its
puff is almost hidden beneath the
fiOunce that envelopes il; or il isn't
any of these, but something that a
maiden has evolved out of her own
sweet fancy, thing of chiffon and vel
vet loops and lace points and pearl
rows and all the other fascinating par
aphernalia of a woman's gown. You
all know how il is done Madam con
consults with madame or maid and the
pretty effects are tried, and 10. the
thing is done. And everyone wonders
where she got the idea; and every body
copies II; and it's all the rage until an
other creation. And meantime the de-
mure little piece sits quietly back in
that big armchair in her own little re-
ception-room in her simple white gown.
The arms are clasped behind her head
10 show-which? The dimpled elbows
or the graceful puff of white silk that
covers the shoulders or the lovely lace
ruffie that falls about the elbow? Who
knows? Suffice il that one, two, three
admirers never leave her side
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25
Building and Loan Societies.

Building and loan association an
thorities are Of opinion that the recent
panic wiz prove 70 them blessing in
disguise The excellent record made
by them they claim. will have the sf-
feet Of convincing thoughtful men %
the stability II the systeru AMI
Of the iHmcnte advantages -
the communities ia which IL opcrat-s
in consequence Of this - viii - posi-
be for building and loan associations
% achieve greater property aud at
tain more rapid growth IN the next few
years than they would have been able
u do under ordinary circumstance Ia
thrice the same length Il time. judy
ing, they claim, from tAs gensr-
al cOuvcrsation Of men ss heard
Fl the ordinary Interchange 81
opinions among tr1tinsAs aeqgalnt-
aacss on the streets - Cslcs-
70 and ia The elubs. the presxn. eoI1i-
ton % building and loan Affairs Il let
ter than that 81 aLao&: any other Line
Their pros ect. for he future are fsIiy
ss fat,crsng as th>ae 81 azy 0rnss
brazcb o! trade or finance
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

q rather unfortunate fact from one
point Of view. because every newly
founded fame brings another army Of
ambitious girls to the metropolis. all
eager To be great stage queens. These
young persons are now q legion, and
managers are daily besiSged in their
'behalf. Their final disposal becomes n
serious problem. because in time their
money gives out, and they must lie
cared for by somebody somehow.
Miss Adams does not take the Same
pe.simi>tic view of these girls that
managers like 10 adopt. She thinks
too much talent Is lost under the blight
of encouragement and boldly advises
the girls TO 60 on the stage If they
think they can act Her own career
as certainly a refutation of the state
ments frequently made that only wom-
en- who have won fame In a sensational
way can succeed in attracting atten-
tion. She divides applause with John
Drew himself in The Bauhle Shop"
and by not few i deemed destined to
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

THE CLUB SKELETON. T h e trouble
began some few weeks ago. A New
Yorker famed all over the country in
troduced at the Union club man OF
fashion, who soon made a name Tor
himself as an all around good fellow.
He had the most prodigious luck at
cards He won game after game, ana
= such place as the Union club that.
means money. AS suddenly as a thun-,
derbolt from a clear sky came charge
that the man of fashion was cheater
at cards The sponsor of the new
conner. according to the circumstan-
italy told tale, was offered irrefraga bic
evidence that his social protege was
deliberately cheating night after night,
The-member OF the Union club was COM
pletely staggered and refused to be-
Geve the allega ton. Finally he was
Afforded opportunities of seeing for
himself and was obliged TO admit the
evidence o. his own senses. 1t is said
that the New Yorker made good the
sums lost by Union club men to the
swindler, hat this has been denied. At
any rate this particularly fashionable
social organization boasts. among other
century end luxuries, skeleton in its
closet. 1t was seriously debated among
the members, OF rather among The few
OF them who knew anything about the
matter, whether or not it would be
well to make a public exposure OF the
fellow, but it was finally concluded to
let the matter remain quiet. A full
revela ton might make known too
much about the gambling propensities
of certain of New York's gilded youth.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

half the length Of the stem An out
door pipe should invariably be plain.
For home use pipe may be as ornate
as you please In the matter of pipe
etiquette a man may smoke on the
street in informal attire, but it is ad-
mitted to be poor taste to walk in for
NAL dress with a pipe between your
| teeth. Nor may a man smoke pipe
in the presence of ladies. unless he be
at home. 1t makes no difference though
the lady permit it. She should not
permit it any more than she should
| tolerate swearing.
man who does his pipe smoking at
home wiz be hard to please indeed if
this years elaborate designs fail to at
tract him. Yachts, legs, claws, cherubs
and chicks are very conspicuous on all
stylish pipes at present. The newest
designs are more elaborate than ever
IN the experience OF the Oldest smokers.
An idea for bachelor consists of
shapely feminine leg. encased below the
knee in a garment more adapted for
wear than for bachelor contemplation.
the effect being heightened by a most
enchanting garter. Heads are very
weird, revealing Bob Acres, Shakes
peare, Washington and even Grover
Cleveland and Benjamin Harrison.
There are monks and Bacchantes
without number, as well as claws, balls
and hoofs
Quite a departure from the fashion
of the last two or three seasons is the
fad of elaborate carvings in the neck of
pipe. The designs are very ella borate,
showing race horses, deer and even n
hunter with his dogs and guns bring
ing down a bird. Those pipes are best
aoapteo Tor presentation on memorial
occasions Of one kind and another A
quaint conceit in this line is the carv-
ing of lost miner with accompani-
ment Of a mine opening, lanterns and
derrick
French briar pipes are made in carv-
ings that depict nothing in particular
For all that, they are very pretty and
promise to be much in vogue. Those
who like metal covers over the top OF a
pipe bowl had better adopt the de-
signs in French briar. This quality of
pipe is clean and Light. ADAPTED to men
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25

ING. Scruti Il re { n e
sists form the best guarantee in years
that little, if any, fraud VIII be posi-
bile. The improvement in all these re-
spects is so great as TO be a subject Of
universal congratulation. New York
seeEs destined. for the first time in
many day, 10 have an absolutely hon
est election
The fight. however, Is a very hot
pne. That is but natural, IN view OF
the remarlka BILE local situation. 1t
would be a waste of space TO enter into
nnv details Of an already wei shred
ded canvass. The really new inllu-
ence IS what may be termed the devel-
opment Of street corner electioneering.
New York citizens seem now 10 have
acquired Il positive taste for open air
campaigning The organizers of mass
meetings are by no means sorry for
this. It saves the expense OF hiring
halls, and imparts a spontaneity to the
partisan enthusiasm that is seldom at
famed inside building. Moreover,
amy little hitch in the proceedings be-
zones trivial. Hill himself has said
Z. Nat these street talks are now the
su. psf potent force in politics.
! Tet there is a slight embarrassment
rom 1ected with them. These meetings
not infrequently block Up whole
street and make the way of the pedes-
-rian ard. The modest style of going
from &C rner to corner in cart is much
in vogue but is being elaborated some
what. 7 here is now a portable plat
form. cor 'structed on truck, that has
rome into general use.
Some yer absurd and trivial person
alities. by IL c way, have been intro
duced into til e campaign. One Of them
mas reference 10 Mortons wig. Many
New Workers ire by this time convinced
that the repub lean candidate actually
wears a wig be- 'ause he has no hair on
mis- head. There is nothing in the repub-
Tcan platform re. aiding wig wearers out
of the party, but, as a matter of fact
Morton is not a wig wearer, strictly
speaking He has quite a decent
amount of iron-gray hair. About three
wears ago he contracted a severe cold
and was ordered TO keep tis head
wrapped up from the winter weather.
His hair is usually close cropped, and
a an additional protection Mr.. Morton
Eonned heavy wig by his doctors or
ders- When the winter had gone he
discarded it and went about in his
natural hair, which grows and is cut
like any other mans. He still, how,
ever, wears wig occasionally, when
the winter is severe. II looks better
than a shawl and is far more cOmforta-
bic At his country seat he wears no
wig at all, for he needs none. Mr..
Morton has a very good head OF hair Of
natures raising.
Another baseless personality has to
40 with David b. Hill There have late
" been made assertions that he is adj
dicted to the use of bad language. One
street corner orator in New York went
80 far as TO say that Hills profanity is
at times revolving. This charge is alb
solutely false. The senator rarely, If
ever, INDUCES in an oath. 1t is true
that he did swear on the now historic
occasion when the nomination of him
self was made at Saratoga. But that
was an exceptional case. The charge
of profanity is not one that can be hon
estly placed in the long catalogue of
nharges against New York senior sem
Btor.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25
SMOKING OF PIPES
Mover Before Have There Been
Such Changes in Shapes.
Self Cleaners Not the vogue-A Hint as to
the Etiquette of Pipe Smoking and
an Idea Of Some Weird De-
signs.
fCoPYRIGHT. IsAl


Pipe smoking was once a habit in
this country. II IS now a cult. 1t has
q literature William Dean Howells
has written about pipe smoking. Ella
Wheeler Wilcox owes some of her fame
to poems inspired by the meerschaum.
Nay, the pipe is figuring in evolution
airy science, and is supporting Grant
Aliens theological view of the cosmos.
Did monkeys ever smoke? he asks IL
not, whom did man initiate when he
took to sucking stems attached to
burning bowls?
However, most pipe smokers prefer
gloating dangerously amid the So
porific haloes into which the fascinat-
ing fumes Enthusiastically frame them
selves, to vexing their dreamily quies-
cent brains with vexing notions of
the pipes origin. A man rarely con-
templates his pipe from the scientific
derlv. And as even the most tickle
sultan has one perennial favorite IN his
harem, so the veteran smoker, though
he possess a hundred pipes, has one
which he regards with an unusual
affection. But, as in Turkey whole
seraglio lives in constant terror of the
discovery of new and peerless beauty,
Sd may a smoker come across some
thing quite new and wonderful in the
way of a pipe and transfer his devo-
ton in a day
This autumn and winter will witness
the fall from favor OF many a veteran
pipe. Never were meerschaums. briars
and bulldogs more enticing. Rarely
have more fetching ideas and inven-
tons appeared. Self-cleaners actually
clean themselves. Water pipes will
hold water Even the plain and I'M
adorned corn cob has put on airs. Yet
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1894-10-25
A Kind Heart.

Tramp-Please. mum, will you give
me two ten-cent pieces?
Housekecper-Clear ont, | haven't
Please, mGm. / only want one OF
them for myself
Hum. That's queer.
Tine other want 20 give 70 voui
next-door neiEhbor. The poor woman
said she hadn't = cent Perhaps. mum
you haven't any. either: but don't lo-e
courage. mum: I'll hustle around town.
and see II can't beg enough for ali q
us
Here's a dollar Now 20. " \.
Wee6Iy