The times., 1894-02-09

quilted heliotrope satin and bordered
with wide bands of Alaska sable. There is
aripple of heliotrope broadcloth, braided
with black and bordered with fur, and
this reaches to the bottom of the cloak
In front in jabot folds. With it is worn
black velvet hat, trimmed with hello
trope, velvet and plumes. The collar is
high and bordered with fur. Another
wrap is being made in the same style,
but with the body of the cloak of dark
green velvet and the jabot collar of
cream white broadcloth, braided with
black and gold, and this bids fair to be
handsomer than the other. The black
cloak costs $500.
There are many other elegant long
oloaBs for grand occasions. One was
cut princess shape, the skirt opening III
front over panel of richly embroidered
blue cloth. The colors were blue, red
and gold, and the pattern covered the
entire front, only showing the cloth be
tween the flowers. The cloak was OF
corduroy, dark blue in colcr, the whole
bordered with a band of beaver. There
was triple cape of velvet of the
same color, also Dordered with fur.
There were deep cuffs of fur. With this
costume there was tiny muff of the
same kind of fur scarcely large enough
for both hands.
One long wrap was plated on a round
yoke, and the front was OF. emerald vel
vet, with deep fringe and netted bead
ngs of jet and fringe of the same across
L., ,,1-x ~e
cloth, bordered with a handsome passe-
menterie. There was short cape, edged
with natural beaver and with velvet
umbrella collar. A six inch band OF
beaver went around the back of the skirt
at the bottom. and there was collar of
the same. There were no sleeves.
Another superb wrap had the back
laid in plaits, with one wide box plait
in the middle. The material of this was
heavy black damasse, 1t hung straight
down from the yoke in front just as it
did in the back. There was a IL inch
band of beaver around the bottom. The
gigot sleeves and double ripple cape and
worth collar are all of black velvet.
With this also is carried a tiny n,uff.
Some thought the muffs for this winter
would be very large, but they so far are
shown only with suits or wraps to match
the fur and arevery small indeed-much
smaller than have ever seen them.
One splendid mantle for young wom-
an was made of corinth armure silk.
trimmed with fat lace insertions and
deep silk fringe. This is cut to hang
from the shoulders and has another cape
coming part way down, with square cor.
ners, bordered with the black lace This
second mantle has three rows of deep
fringe hung ON in festoon over each
arm. There were three stiff, sprung ruf.
hes all around the shoulders, but not
across the bust. There were bands OF
fine jet passementerie on each of these
and down the front of the shoulders.
There was q mite of muff of black
astrakhan with this, trimmed with a
corinth red satin bow. This was to be
worn over shot silk, green and red,
made with a plain skirt edged by two
narrow founces.
Inotice marked desire to drape skirts
again, but this draping is produced by
festOoning one skirt over another or lift
ing up one side to show an apparent un-
derskirt of other material. Some are
iooped that way TO the knees on the right
side or left, as may be. and the folds are
left to fall loosely. saw one that was
really handsome and rest to the eyes
wearied with roundabout trimming. II
was a chocolate colored cloth, with q
wide band of steel gray reps around the
l~okk aA hyy vsDv tNnvrA ~
krimmer. This was liftedquite 20 inches,
showing an underskirt Of steel gray,
with five upright maize ribbons an inch
wide and two inches apart, and these
were set with small silk buttons of white.
There were three ribbons set on the
breast in point and covered with but
tons. The waist and sleeves were Of
gray, with wide spring bertha of the
cloth. The sleeves were balloon puffs.
Indeed the most of the sleeves at pres
snt are either gigot or balloon puffs.
Some skirts are cut out with deep seal,
tops, and these buttonholed with small
scallops. and under all an accordion
plated skirt of contrasting color, such
as drab or tan over pink, with the other
accessories of garnet velvet.
Fur trimming, narrow and wide, lie
seen on almost everything, even on some
evening dresses. Erinine is worn quite
largely by those who can obtain that ex.
pensiye fur. Ermine collars and stoles
are seen onvelvet short cloaks, and there
is something truly regal about that fur.
Beaver is sn expensive fur, bht owing
to its smooth, even sdrfacs it IS the best
for putting nandson any garment. Seal.
skin this year is worth 81 an inch, and
she who has sealskin may be doubly
happy, since it is doubly valuable. Box
capes and military capes are much liked
in sealslxin, and also those that are fitted
on to circular collar. Some have rip
pie collars of the fur, and these are bound
with beaver or sable IL possible. The
military cape is the most often seen, but
there is little real warmth In it, as the