Waterbury evening Democrat. [volume] (Waterbury, Conn.) 1887-1895, 1894-02-22
DETAILS OF MAKING GOWNS.
Practical Suggestions About Essentis
noint. In Rnhices and SlSirfn,

Practical Suggestions About Essential
Points In Bodies and Skirts.
A round waist with coat skirt belted
On is an excellent plan, as it makes one
costume answer for both house and
street. The round waist and skirt serve
for the house, and the added coat skirt
makes this an appropriate dress for the
street.
In making round waists of wool dress
rs most of the seams are confined to the
lining, and the outside is drawn smooth
ly over this fitted lining without darts or
seams except those of the sides, or per-
haps two seams are there to add an I'M
derarm form on each side. When silk
Innings are too costly, there are Innings of
cotton sateen of single color, as smooth
as silk and of u heavy quality, known as
Oxford cloths.
The sleeve Innings are fitted easily
around the arm, and the outer mutton leg
sleeves of wool droop in loose folds from
plaits in the armholes to the elbow,
where a second seam appears to shape
them closely on the forearm. The wool
and sateen are taken together in the
seams and are bound with ribbon. The
line in order to draw the back down
smoothly and keep it in place. This belt
is tackled with long cross stitches to two
seams in the back of the lining and is
then hooked in front. Two inverted
hooks are placed just below the tack
ings, and eyes to correspond with them
are set on the belt of the skirt to prevent
the waist and skirt parting.
The end of the waist is turned under
and faced with twilled silk tape, and
may pass inside the skirt or else merely
under short basque of MORE or satin,
attached two inches higher on the out
side under belt of folded satin ribbon.
The waist may fasten down the middle
of the front or be slightly Tapped to the
left below the bust and decorated there
with three large buttons. After the in
tricate ways of closing corsages lately in
vogue, this easy closing is comfort.
Modistes make the front edges meet
without tapping and place hooks and
eyes, alternating on the opposite sides,
Just at the edge of the lining, almost
covering them by band of twilled silk
tape.
The half circle skirt falling in godet
plaits remains the favorite and may be
cut all III one piece from double width
goods, or i'll five cores if preferred. 1t
is about 4 ] yards around the foot, where
it barely escapes the floor all around and
fits smoothly at the top on the front and
sides, the back being gathered, or else
held in four or six plaits. The lining
may be of seven hreadths of inexpensive
silk, or else of cotton sateen. In either
case all the seams are hidden by being
turned inside next the wool skirt, except
that down the middle of the back, in
which the outside and lining are joined,
and the two closed edges are stitched
closely together and pressed open fatty.
This middle back seam is sloped mar
rover toward the top, though not SO mar
row as in bell skirts.
The interlining of stiff canvas or of
crinOline lawn may be only II or IA
inches deep all around or may extend
farther up the back. Many ladies pre-
fer interlinings Of waddlng. The foot
of the skirt is completed by joining the
edges of the outside and lining and COW
ering the seam by band of velveteen
cut bias and nearly an inch wide when
finished. The canvas interlining is tackled
at the top to the lining only. Braids at
the foot of skirts are now seldom used.
A plain skirt, if we'll cut to hang even
ly all around short distance above the
floor, needs no trimming and is really
more stylish when made of wooden goods
than if trimmed with many bands. The
placket hole, or opening, is leftin the mid
die seam of the back of the skirt, and the
pocket is inserted amid the fullness on
the right side If IL balayeuse is added,
it is rutfle of tatfeta the color of the
lining, cut bias. about five inches deep,
pinked ON each edge and gathered near
the upper edge in two or three rows. The
foregoing useful instructions are from
Harpers Bazaar.