The Helena independent., 1894-10-14
OF NEW YORK FASHIONS.
The Gro!esque Woll illustrated in
Hat With Ten Ostrich
Feathers.
Some Things Decided by the Re-
oont Openings at the stores
and Shopa
plain skirts and Elaborately Trimmed
walsts-Capes That arc Comfortable
Chifon Roaettes Apart

EpeciAl Correspondence OF lho lndepehueht
NV YoRN. Oot. 9-Fashiosablo millinery
often borders on the arotesqusi sa for sK'
ample ten osirioh planes on q hat or
twenty ietted quilts standing upright are
even more pronounced than the ordinary
tumble of oolors and materials which now
predominates. Quills arc reduced 10 about
a fourth OF ths natural breadth, with bo,t
edges snorustsd by JET; therefore 10 ts pos
sible TO use large number together with
other ornaments. Jot is in greater de-
mand than ovsri fascinating lit.lo
hats, buckles plns crownG all 90 10 make
up that peculiar chic so coveted By ihe
aspiring fashionist. shiTrsd velvet bats
afford ar agreeable change from The straight
around felt or beaver brim. and very full
double velvet frills at the edge, about an
inch and half wide, fall naturally into
numstous c inkles or curves crowns being
almost fat, or those OF ait or steel are
often substituted. This style OF hat 10
really beautiful especially 10 pink, helio-
trope or green velvet, trimmed with gilt
ornaments, contrasting satin Iosettes and
white aiarettes
By Way of Contrast
very stylish brown felt ha, has wide,
orange colorsl velvet band around the
crown. and seven clusters OF coos feathers
on the bfim. Bird Of paradise plumsgs 10
much ia vogue, sometimes grouped with
ostrich tips or coos plumes and occasion
ally all three are used in side eluster.
Piece satin or velvet are often requisite for
making the heavy folds, twists. or loops
IN fashionable trimmings and rosettes
generally measure about hye inches in di-
smeter, OF course with O ptoportionate
depth. Fancy felt braids arc being very
generally adopted, and are 80 pliAble that
thsy admit OF being twisted into almost
any shape, and when in light husa COM
bine beautifully with dark velvet set OF By
Jet, steel or Rhine stone ornaments.
Recent Openings
decide the popularity OF plain skirts and
'eiaborately trimmed waists; which arc In
many cbsos made up OF velvet chiffon or
iet. with . small proportion of the dress
material. Quite large number Of corsage
fronts are cut so large lover fitted lining)
that decided puts appear bstwsen jet passs-
menterie etraps or pendants, which fall
from sort OF jeot yoke or strap extending
across ths bust producing the eject OF
fnllness at the back, laid in three Ia ge
'plai,s or four or five la'Re curves or ripples.
held Ia position by eiastics on the under
side, and although ID is supposed thnt rough
fabrics are Just now in speciGl favor. at the
frat fall opening OF the leading house OF
Lord 4 Taylor IL was poticeabls that there
were quite ~ many costumes OF faced
cloth" au OF camers hair fabrics. A plaided
silk skirt was quite a novelty, as plsids. ex-
HhlldFan havA haan altaUalhaT
passe. In exIensiye dresses, JET or bluet
passemente-ie pendants not only hang from
che shoulders but from the vhist also, snd
In dark velvet costumes. white or light chif-
fon sleeves bring about q charming con-
trast.
Fancy Waists
are now considered more stylish for even.
ina wear than any other. and those of
white. pale blue bust. pink or yellow chit
fon are charming; made extremely full
over self-colofed silk Innings. with shirrsd
yokes, and a large chiffon rosetie at each
side Of the front on the collar. one at each
shoulder and two at the belt Powered
chiffon oyes colored silk 10 exquis-
te with colored velvet belt
and collAs. the bias velvet shoulder knots
lined with silk matching the lining. In
harmony. are enormously foil chiffon
sleeves. falling in soft folds 30 the elbow.
or In thrse dropping puGs- Plaidsd silk or
chine silk waists appear almost coarse in
contrast with these fairy like orostions but
are far more durable. particularly when
ono may hnvs only limited supply.
There Is Genuine Warmth,
as we'll rs style. In the long double eapes OF
smooch beaver cloth. now shown for fall or
winter use, and indications arc that black
or tan will take precedence. although young
persons will wear b!uo to certain extent. |
Applique trimmings (Gat bsnds) are the
leading style, not however TO the exclusion
OF brAiing. which, when libstslly en-
ployed, nm urper cape is not considered
necessary, Collars arc for the most part
mej Sam = zsd. turned down afRirs, In direct
contrast TO the high, faEing onos OF last'l
ssrsou, hut roUhing or box plating stlll
e1isis. Velvet or velvet plush chpes with
brohd pnssementerle faoiuRs and 60 lnr,
are very elegant and sometimes fur bands
are rut on beiwtea those of pAsssInenterie,
giving tho appearance Of insertions. A VERY
noye gaGniturs for cApea, is con.
tiastlng perforated cloth, put on
In wide bands or olso like an over care |
with points. and Rteel span giles arc attached |
trnly TO the cloth. which is cut in scroll |
patterns diamonds, and in fact Il a strong
remluoof OF ollcloth designs, Perforated |
cloth 10 also used for dressss and blouse
wnists, over ooiorod elk lininpg, bat
its advent is too recent 90 determine
ita popularity. Hoods are fashionable on
taoketa which with appliqus trimmings,
are the only new features regur ing them.
All lengths are worn, bet az present, sleeyes
have rendered oapos a necessity.
Apart PROM Chiffon Rosetiss
or chiffon fronts. trimmings arc univet-
sally hst, jst pEssementsrio 0; lace bands
are fayoritesi but applique trimmings are
really ihe newest stylo. colorsd cloth ON
white satin, OF eol0red velvet out in unla1s
patterns on cloth, and hoavy Venice lGees
border dark velvet with excellent effect.
FhrEfr Er~rB