The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1894-12-29
FOR THE TABLE.

The had weather has a decided tendency to
dim the gIorIes OF the vegetable and fruit stalls.
Early fruits are retarded, and late ones ruined
by the rain, aud the same cause prevents the
fisherman from securing full harvest. Grabs
have been unobt ainable some days this week,
shrimps almost equally so, and terrapin scarce
and high. as these little creatures, which seem
so we'll armed for their struggle with the world.
are very susceptible to cold and easily succumb
TO It, So the pOulterers and butchers are hav-
ing a monopoly Of the spolls just now, with
game in profusion and meat lower than it has
ever been before.
To thanksgiving belongs the turkey, to Christ
mas the noble Srloln Of beef and the fatted
goose or crisp roast pig, but no special Joint or
bird has been set aside sacred TO the lie asst
OF the New Year. Early San Franoiscans made
small account OF the dinner OF that day, as II
was sure to be broken In upon by the callers
who were numbered by hundreds and Tor whose
refreshment the tables were supplied from
early morn TO late at night with salads rolls,
urns Of hot coffee, where wine was not offered,
and slices of delicious pound or fruit cake,
some of which had been made In New England
homes and shipped here around the Horn.
The pound cake was fine grained, and close,
but light, though not with the lightness which
yeast powder gives, as all really rich cakes are
made without that article; the fruit cake was
spicy and brown, not solid with fruit, but with
that article used In just proportions, and
whether the sea voyage brought out all the
latent virtues Of its ingredients or whether
that result was due TO the sharp appetites of
childhood. certainly no cakes of later times
seem quite so good as the New Years cakes of
early days.
For making either pound or fruit cake the
same directions may be given. First OF all see
that The stove is clean and hampers in
right position or all pains taken In the mixing
Will go for naught. All soot must carefully be
removed from under the oven, or it may
fake nre suddenly ana sweep In hot flames be-
meath and around 1t and char the cake TO
hopeless sodden mass. A fresh fire Is not good
for baking rich cakes, the oven should be
heated gradually, and a moderate fire kept,
never allowing the fuel TO reach TO the top of
the fire box, and adding coal as it is
needed. never moro than double handful at a
Zine. Stir the IRE from below TO insure q draft,
and try TO keep the oven at such tempera-
lure that it will not be necessary to touch the
hampers while the cake is in the oven.
In all stoves there is one spot which is cooler
than the rest Of the oven. Find which this is
and put the cake in that for at least the first
hour. turning il gently around from time TO
time. but taking care not TO Jar IL in any way.
A pound cake requires about three hours and a
fruit cake about five hours for baking and
neither should do more than show signs or TAX
ing color in tie first hour, at the end of which
time lay sheet of brown paper, doubled ana
oiled, over the top of the cake to prevent
searching, though if the fire is just right there
Will not be much danger of that. II the fire Is
center, In cooking, will break through, and the
top will be cracked and unseemly.
FOR either cake the pan must be lined on
sides and bottom with double paper, neatly
MT ed, but not creased, as the pans should be
buttered sufficiently to obYiate the necessity
for that. Let the cakes cool in the pans; in
deed. they can be set away in them closely
covered, and will keep months.
The mixing OF the cakes is very simple
affair; only remember to have all ingredients
weighed aud pans ready before beginning to
make the cake. Warm and dry the -four before
weighing, clean the currants, slice the citron
and seed the raisins; then warm the fruit -four
iT:with some of the flour set aside for the cake
and mix the spices with the wine and brandy.
Add the fruit last of ALL anu il the other direc-
lions have been followed there Will not be
much chance OF the fruit settling 10 the bottom
OF the cake.
To make the pound cake weigh carefully one
pound OF sweet butter wash IL free from salt
anu work it TO cream. To this add one pound
of powdered or fine granulated sugar and rub
the two together ill they are as light and
smooth as il is possible TO make them; then
stir In lightly the beaten yelks OF ten large
eggs which, of course, must be fresh.
Next beat the whites TO a stiff froth and add
them TO the batter then a wineglass of brandy
or rosewater, and lastly pound of warmed
flour. Nutmeg or mace are sometimes added.
When all is well mixed beat il with wooden
spoon, remembering that the cake depends for
IT'S lightness upon the amount OF air which is
Incorporated into its substance. The batter
should be yellow, creamy mass, which, de-
spite all the time given to ss composition, Will
be bitter disappointment unless the precau-
tions about baking have been taken. The
fruit cake is made exactly in the same manner
as the pound cake, except that good quality
OF brown sugar is substituted for the granu-
lated. To this batter Is added two pounds OF
Taisins, weighed before seeding, TWO pounds OF
curTantS and half pound of eitrOn, also one
tables poonful each OF cinnamon. mace and
nutmeg and a wineglass each of sherry and
brandy. The fruit must be stirred IN very
little, just enough TO mix II we'll and no longer.
AS neither OF these cakes rises much in baking
the pans can be pretty we'll filed with the mix
ture. II they are TO be iced it is well TO turn
them upside down for the purpose as the
bottom of the cake is rather more art to be
level than the top. After putting on one coat
Of icing add a little white of egg TO what is left
ana pour that over the cake after The first coat
IS dry. This will give smooth, glossy finish TO
the cake.