The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1894-10-25

was Of white jaconet. There are three
hounces Of the same, each having four
tucks- The waist was held in with pale
blue ribbon of heavy ribbed quality.
The upper portion of the waist was
tucked, and there was a deep pelerine
bertha gathered on. 20 that ii formed
points in front and on the shoulders
The sleeves Were bell shaped, held in
by black velvet bows. The rundown
collar was Of the same embroidery that
encircled the bertha and sleeves \
coquettish little lace cap with blue rib
bons completed this very pretty fancy.
Tea jackets are shown again, and these
are as delicate and fine Is they can be
| made. Soft thin silks in very light tlnts
are the materials best liked for the foun-
| datiOn, and this Is generally loaded with
| all the lace and ribbon II Will carry.
Lace and ribbon 70 wOmen's attire are
| like the flowers TO the plant, and they
soften so many angularities and tone 50
! many bad compilations that IL Is no
wonder they never go out of fashion.
1 happened into q place recently
where they make speciality of aprons
| for kirmiss and for dressy home wear,
and 1 saw some of these frivolous little
things that were TO sell for $50 apiece.
They were of sheer linen lawn and sim
ply overwhelmed with lace and ribbon
bows Some had whole row of hem
stitched tucks done by hand, which is
very tedious work, and makes them ex-
pensive. These have one row of fine
lace quilted on the bottom and a wide
bow Of exceedingly rich ribbon at one
side Of the belt. Some had a few deli
cate flowers worked in colored silks,
and others were of colored lawns and
also Of light silks, but all covered with
lace and more lace on top of that. On
some of the sheer grass lawns there Is
much Spanish drawn needlework This
Is very expensive, but Is always beauti-
full.
The undergarments for the fall trade
show one marked departure. There are
no more union garments of corset cover
and skirt combined in one TO the exclu-
sion of the old style chemise. Now it Is
all chemiseS, and corset covers are not
hampered with skirt. Nearly all of
the ChemiSes are cut sack style ana or
namented more or less deliberately with
lace and embroidery. Drawers are of
two shapes-the plain square finish ard |
the gathered, knickerbockers. I saw |
some of these made of figured linen and |
striped linen trimmed with lace, but |
the effect was not pleasing. White is /
the only proper color for underwear.
The silk petticoats OF last season have |
all disappeared, and white ones have |
taken their places. Possibly with the
return of cold and sloppy weather there
will be some silk skirts seen, but Just
now they are decidedly paSsee
This Il the season when the fur deal
ers are busy preparing for the cold
weather. Visited prominent fur house
with the result that l saw the garments
TO be worn next winter. The short cape,
with its wonderful collar is TO be Just
rs fashionable a il was last season.
There are many capes OF seal. beaver
and ermine shaped exactly like the
coachman's capeS, only these have no
collars at all, but straight chokers- This
Is 10 permit the wearing of the boas,
which are TO be 4 feature Many ladies
who became the proud posseSSors of
handsome fur capeS last winter found
them not only uncomfortable, but dan
gerouS, a the shoulders and neck were
unduly heated, while the lower part of
thewaist seemed 70 be entirely unprotect-
ed This season the dealers have made up
sleeveless waists OF black silk or satin
lined with rabbit or squirrel fur. These
ft the figure snugly. and the fur reaches
only 70 just above the bust line They
are 70 be put on under the cape outside
Of the dress and keep the body warm
The furry side goes inside.
There will DO very many garments
made OF shaggy fur and many more Dor
iered and trimmed with pointed beaver.
Plucked raccoon makes beautiful soft
FUR. either drab or slate gray. Some
times il is clipped and sold for beaver,
but 1t Is far softer and more becoming
n Its natural length. Some of the best
-accoon furs have the fleece or fiber an
nch and half long.
Sealskin and sable Will be mingled {
II many garments but only the most I
ones. Some long armure and |
,engaliue cloaks for the coolest DAYS
re lined with red fox and bordered
With mink These are very handsome
Storm collars Of different colored furs !
vii De added 10 nearly every garment :
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