The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-02-10
THE TRUEARBITER OF STYLE.
Words or WISDOM IRON ARTISTIC
GARMENT CUTTERS

| Nen who Take Thctr CsilinG &c = Serious
| nuty-Pstristie Mes, Tso. sps Modest r.
| Eza-pies oftke Creations OF Tneir sssnius.
The men who decide for us what we shall
| wear have met. exchanged old ideas and for
INFLATED new ones. aud now. having mentally
laid out out garments for us for the ensuing
season. have separated and gone back to their
| respective homes. The last meeting OF the
| New York state custom Foremen Tailors As
soeistlon Convention was held yesterday at
the Hotel Mctropole. and. as wind-up. all
sorts OF questions wero discussed. opinions
volunteered. and personal experiences related.
Here are some bits Of tailors' wisdom culled
| during the meeting;
Garment cutting Is the highest Of all trsdes
! II alone demands artistic faculties Of the high
| est grade"
Practice in cutting does not make perfect.
| IL Is the constant study OF changes in style
and personal physical peeuliarltes In custom
ers that makes tho high-Erade cutter"
ITO be a successful cutter one should begin
to cut coats before he has cut his wisdom
teeth"
Until all men grow alike. not only In form
but in taste and opinion. garment cutting
must be done not by any infle1ible rulo or
system. but by al art sense Of the peculiar
necessities OF each subject under treatment"
so much for the tailor's opinion Of his own
trade. Now hero is patriotism:
The highest artistic perfection OF to-day
has been reached by the American tailor"
Il have learned six systems, forgotten i've
OF them. and. with tho last for the basis. have
brought to its aid what could recollect OF tho
others. and so find myself ut the nont where
the best Now York tailors arrived some time
before me-"
The most outrageous and insuiTefable snob
l.. ~. 80
day who goes to England for his clothes,
and buys stun that no decent Englishmnn
would put on his back. because It's English.
you know"
After patriotism comes politics. and here is
what the cutters-who disclaim any political
bias In their meetings-think Of things To-
The Wilson bill is a bad bill It's no better
Mr.. Wilson knows about as much about
tarifl as COW does about double-breastei
4 good many opinions adverse to the Wilson
bill were expressed, md finally a. committee
and Mr.. Dodge Of Syracuse presented resolu-
tions denouncinE the Wilson bill and express.
the duty on manufactured clothing should be
eighty Ave per cent; Instead OF forty-hye per
eio,hnr TO be- Brought in from ron other Countries
Without duty be reduced from $3.50. as In tho
" P1ssd el t $50 Webster read p,per on
=
The Ideal Cutters Convention" and then
came a general and Informal discussion on
snre OF the cutters III en- selves. til. average
man will wear clothes Of even more quiet de.
sss 'G&s as wor cnS fshsr
loose. black cutaway coats, waistcoats Of tho
M aqd OF ase waes &
long. while only two or three wore sack suits.
and those were OF modest pattern. The gen
eral opinion was that the coats FOG spring and |
summer wear would be long and loose. Over
as the paddock coat will not endure, and there |
will be- less silk facing than formerly Waist
There Ia a constan nifty increasing tendency |
toward quiet colors," ssid one tailor nndthe
i hi. e S BLACK sot %E
blending Of eoiPrs; rs ali ip the eat now"
sGi%r T C GS 81 mas sIs
INIT IT %erht oSs e Now. he tSoug6t he
want cd black. but knew better: Hehas beau;
was something to match them. so put a LID: |
eral construction on that word black. and
He Vas ticsled 10 death; wrote me that il was
the hest c2at he ever had made. NOW that's
what call triumph OF art; having Gus
other that he likes better"
Another cutter from up the State told how
clothing by their tailors;
Every two months come down to this
CITY" .aid he and go to three or four OF the
best tailor shops, where / carefully examine
their IN ade.up garments. With my tape meas
ure, which always have In mypocket. meas.
ure the width OF the collar. circumference OF
the trousers at knee and bottom. and make
other measurements. In half n day learn all |
want. Then return ready to make clothes
In the very latest styles"
While the members were discussing styles a
rommitte consisting OF l.. NTedenburR. A. u.
Muller. and l.. Ericsson were Inspecting the
garments submitted in competition for prizes
nality. cut, ft and workmanship The: first
prize went to A. +. Hulquist of Jamestown on
4 three button black cutaway coat OF rough
70 tho buttonholes won the second prize for f..
Carl Smith OF Stamford. In tho awarding Of
he diploma the committee made decided de-
parture from tho ordinary standards in decid-
coat lined with white silk.
All the garments were then brought In and
exhibited. One which attracted particular at.
IGNITION was an evening coat linsd throughout
and faced to the edge with pearl colored satin,
with a collar Of the same material. This coat.
which the maker calls y wedding coat is to be
worn with corded white waisteoat and ordi-
nary dress trousers.
Another much admired niece OF work was a
Ady's street costume OF pepper and salt
gorsted, which was displayed on a dummy. |
over a vest OF white maTseIlles was a body
waist with wide iApels. fitting like short cut
away coat over that was douh breasted
buttoned back in the front Ii was Very long
behind. very puffy at the shoulders. very man
lish In general. and cost SIP II was made
BIZ s. I. De Jones OF this city. Other tailors |
showed curiousIy constructed overcoats with
)ut seams at the sides or in the back.
ALI these and many other creations received
,tbsr mat thsI had absorbed msSv nsx s sSh
'aluabls ideaa from the Convention. the cut
eIs separated to meet again next August in |
his city.