The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-02-25

The discussion which Is going on in our
columns as to the leader Of mems fashions
in New York, is interesting and important.
II by the general consent OF men some indi-
vidual could be selected. acknowledged.
and deferred to as such an exemplar, a cri-
terion Of dress would he established which
would settle questions Of fashion and pro-
priety that now may be vexntious.
At the late convention OF the merchant
tailors at Pittsburgh. and at the convention
OF iourneymen tailors held In New York a
short time before. there were spirited dis
cussions as to the comparative artistic
merits Of English and American tailoring.
and the question was decided in favor OF
our own in very emphatic way. The in
feriority Of the Anglican art was demon
strated and exposed by pointing to the
indisputable fact that garments made
by the most fashionable OF London tailors
must be "bushelled here In order to rem
der them satisfactory to the exacting taste
of American men as formed by the higher
and more perfect standard OF American
workmanship. The mere method Of over
coming this foreign competition which
was adopted by the assembled tailors.
was In itself sufficient proof of tho In
ITlHblC lulcIlorlLy VI INC LuBiibu BdTIuouIS,
and the unreasonableness OF the whlmsi-
cal men who import them. 1t was for
our domestic tallors to unite In firmly re-
fusing TO bushel or alter the clothes so as
TO repair the glazing deficiencies Of the
English art. II these men want to enjoy
the empty distinction OF wearing garments
Of London construction. say our associated
tailors. let them be compelled to wear them
exactly al they are made. with none OF their
deformities Of fit and trimming remedled
by the nicer and more beautiful tailoring
art OF this country. degraded TO the level of
mere bushelling
This very creditable rising Of our tai
Tors against the invasion OF inferior London
tailoring art might properly be supple
mented by the establishment OF an Ameri-
can standard Of dress for men which should
be emancipated from absolutely servile de-
pendenee on English models. Such dec
laratiOn OF reasonable Independence would.
OF course. be facilitated II the men of New
York would follow the suggestion OF our
correspondents and agree on some in
divldual as the glass OF fashion. AS
IL Is now. the Prince OF WALES is this
Rrblter for both this country and the civil
lied world generally. He sets the fashion
for men. and undoubtedly he will continue
TO exercise that function In a general way.
No such American arbiter OF fashion as is
proposed could establish successfully q
standard essentially different from that set
by him. That Is practically impossible: but
there are variations In the costume rem
dered necessary by climatic and other diff
ferenees in this country. which would
afford field for the exercise OF the
genius OF such a functionaEy. Moreover.
In this country there are many men
anxious for fashionable distinction. and
perhaps with an aptitude for II.
who are not thoroughly Informed as TO
the requisite nieeties OF truly fashionable
dress as determined by the exigencies Of
different occasions and the most fastidious
usage. 1t Is true. that already an artistic
tailor can do very much TO supply this lam
entabls deficiency. but there remain de-
tails as to which his taste and judgment
cannot be trusted implicitly. He can rig
out a man In coats. waisteOAts. and trousers.
but there are other matters Of costume in
which he Is not an authority.
Our correspondents. for instance. lay much
stress on the necessity OF an accepted
standards in hose. shirts. collars. and cuffs.
What shall be the color OF hose exposed in
the pumps OF evening dress : Is It consist
snt with true fashion to wear detachable col
lara and cuffs. or must they be insep&-
rabls parts OF the Shirt What. too.
shall b the color Of the eFavat and
Its character with reference 10 the COM
pleIion Of the wearer. the sort OF garments
1t accompanies. and the occasion on which
Il Il worn What shall be the nature OF the
hat with due regard 70 the pgOpristiss Of
varying so0iAl contingencies What shall
y The ESlsss tO'sioxssi Howard Wesa