Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-22


soon be donnedyby royalty ali over Europe,
to say nothing bf the uncrowned kings and
queens Of fashion right here in America.
No Temptation to Copy This.
English girls are wearing waterfalls.
therefore Irish and Scotch and, for all one
can tell, WELSH girls are doing the same.
The old-time chigrona structure made up of
fluffy puffs. arranged like two big Vienna
rolls, laid side by side crosswise or end
wise, sticks out four inches from the back
OF every fleming head you meet With all
this the frontllhair is frizzed and curled
until IT projects just as far over the fore
head as the aggregation does back of the
ears. The fashion is not becoming to one
IN hfty faces, ana in these isolated cases
the makeup is shorn Of much of its exag-
gerated features. With this unbecoming
and startling Hty9e, the hats Of the past
summer were regular scarecrows, wide
brimmed, faring fronts, like child's mus
lin bonnet, held on heaven and the wearers
only knew how
The popular bonnet might have been, and
probably was, copied from the fashion
plates of twenty years ago, a tiny, three
cornered section of almost anything, lace,
jet or flowers, resting far back on the
waterfall. Altogether, the average English or
Irish woman this summer, whether she
wore bonnet or hat, did not hide away any
OF the crowning glory OF her sex, her halr'
but for the taste of an American woman a
much more becoming get-up could have
been managed with the materials at hand
In fact. the English woman does not give
UP the chignon entirely at any time. It's
construction varies, but the general ldea
remains. Since the mind of woman rum
Meth to the contrary an English girl with
a narrow-brimmed sailor hat and her hair
arranged in tiny braids. coiled round and
round the back of her head. and front hair
frlzzed from ear to ear, as the Princess OF
Wales and her daughters wear theirs, has
been the standing type.
Sailor Hats and Blouses.
The sailor hat undergoes no such trans
formation as to height of crown or width Of
brim as it does here. 1t remains the same
little fiat affair, jaunty and becoming even
with the dreadful chignon accompaniment.
The straw Alpine hat, with as little trim
ming, has almost superseded the sailor and
Is coed for a two or three years run, while
with US as many months would exhaust its
popularity.
The blouse shirt ard smoothly fitting
tailor dress of tweed in light colors is still
so universally worn by English girls that
it has practically become national uni
form. 1t will be just as popular next year,
and for twenty years to come in all proba-
bility. That's one beauty about being a
Britisher, fashion is not a fleeing thing.
and you can wear your clothes till they
are worn out If you live long enough.
All the little vagares that home style de-
creed in the tailor suit the past year, the
full-skirted short jacket and very much
gored and stiffened skirt are not considered
&C cd style by the smartest English tailors.
The latest agony in the tailor dress is a
vide bell skirt, one seam, and that up the
back, and nc trimming of any kind. The
jacket Is cut well over the hips, and the
skirt of it only moderately full. The sleeves
are full and stand out smartly from the
shoulders in broad box pleats. When a stiff
skirt and vest are worn, the jacket has broad
fiaring revers, but for winter wear coats are
double-breasted and button high. and the
correct finish will be boa collarette of
some kind OF fur. A tailor dress, too,
means that every stitch in it has been put
In by nan, and the English and Irish lady
of fashion wants just that kind of work,
and no other for her walking dresses.
Such Is the asCendancy. however. of the
daintiness and smoothness of fit which
characterized the well-dressed American
woman that n Is said of the most fashion
able tailors in London that the only men
about the establishments are the cutters and
filters. Women do the sewing, and all of
1t Is "engined." as they call machine sew
ing in the old country.
Will We Wear These, Too.
The French woman who has gone in for
bicycle riding wears knickerbocke-s, or
"knicks." as they say in England. Bicycle
costumes no longer exist merely in fashion
plates. London streets give small opportu-
nifty for the enjoyment of the wheel, but
the fair sex are seen just as often as the
other. carefully picking their way among
the confusion of vehicles. Their 'knckers'
but are more or less concealed by the long
skirted coat-tails. With the French girl
who has taken so heartily to an exercise so
foreign TO an her traditions there is no
such poor subterfuse to cover up the elnan-
cipatcn from petticoats. Her .knickers'
are regular bcomers, hang somewhat over
the knee, and display such uniformly we'll
rounded lower limbs as to make women,
who are usually suspicious of other women's
charms. think that some of the curves may
come with the costume.
The blouse waist, generally in a lighter
color, and a smart, round hat give the
whole outfit ar opera bouffe flavor that has
its attractions. no, doubt of 1t. The French
girl has herself and her wheel driven out to
the Champs Elysee and the Bots, where
there is a ~pportunity to show off some
fine riding ID her costume. If IL is an
easy dress 10. riding. of course, 1t is easier
still for walking Therefore. it is quite as
common, at the moment to see the girls
who have got rid Of the superfuous petit
coat making no bones at all of wearing
their new rigs at any hour and on every oc-
casion, and 1t excites but little attention The
French GIRL however, who keeps to the ira
ditions of her sex, and is never seen abroad
without a chaperone or servant, is not 60
ing In for the like, and therefore. has small
respect for the eccentricities of her sister
who does The wonder is now how long will
1t take for the ''knickers" to become fash
ionable among the lady cyclists in Wash
ingtcn, who are, as a rule, so becomingly
modestly and comfortably dressed now for
the perfect enjoyment of this delightful ex-
ercise. H McC