The advocate., 1894-12-12
CLEVER CRITICISM.
A FRENCklWoMAN's IDEAS ABOUT
HER AMERICAN SISTERS DRESS.

'On the deck Of La Touraine, outward
bound, says woman who was there, "a
clever little FIenchwoman criticised fairly
the dressing of her American sisters and
gave some excellent hints as to the correct
ing of their mistakes.
When an American woman is well
dressed, she said, she is perfection, but
few understand the art. She is exceeding
ly quick in copying new ideas, most in
genious in making over gowns and is be-
ginning to dress appropriately, but there
are certain essential points of good dress
ing to which she gives little attention.
For instance, most Of your women have
excellent figures, the effect Of which is
marred by unnecessary or badly fitting cor
sets. There never was a more ridiculous
advertisement than that which states that
a corset can be perfect fitting" to all
when the types Of figures are so diverse
Many short wasted women, seeing cor
set marked long waisted," " will fancy
that by its adjustment the line from un-
der the arm to the hip will be heightened
and that they will resemble the graceful
dummy on which the stay is exhibited
The mistake Is discovered when, after
many pains, the long corset is fastened
around the resisting body and cushions Of
misplaced flesh rise about the edges Let
such woman, realizing that she is short
Walsted, obtain an appropriate stay, and
her appearance will be much improved,
her comfort certainly increased.
All women who buy ready made
stays should indicate the length under
the arm to the waist line as we'll as the
circumference Of the waist 1t is usually
a mistake for Americans to buy ready
made French corsets, for the national
types Of figures are very different. A typ
ical American figure in a typical French
corset is often q cruel misfit. Many Amer
lean women are too large below the waist
line for perfect proportion, and that lack
of symmetry is often accentuated by tight
bodice and too much drapery on the skirt.
Such figure would better wear no cor
sets, but use broad abdominal supporter
about the hips to keep in place the super
fluous flesh and linen waist to give firm
support to the bust. For the majority of
American figures no corset is necessary.
Another mistake is made by your
women when they fail to realize that there
are as many kinds of compilations as fig
ures, and that no advertised cosmetic can
be good for all faces. They will purchase
skin creams and rub their faces diligently
night after night with varying results. If
it happens to suit the complexion of one
woman, that is no assurance that her sis
ter will be benefited by its use. Few re-
alize that the secret of face care is to treat
each feature separately. Rarely is the
skin on nose and cheek Of the same quail
ity, and consequently what is healing for
one may injure the other. If skin be Of
good quality ON all the face, with the ex-
ceptiOn of the nose, and the latter secretes
too much oil, bath with a soft sponge
dipped in borax water will keep the nose
q in better condition, while the rest of the
face would be dried and injured by borax.
The wrinkles about the eyes may be sue
cessfully treated with cocoa butter, while
for the other features that treatment
might be harmful. Every woman may
try for herself the action of harmless cos
metics, but they should be used sparingly.
What hideous fashions you have Of
cutting and dressing your hairl Don't, /
beg OF you, II you wish well dressed, neat
looking heads, cut the hair short all about
the face. 1t is hopeless material to work
with in that condition and impossible to
arrange in the graceful waves now in
vogue. wish that might show you the
hair curling or 'ondulating," which Pa
risian hairdressers have perfected. They
have SO closely copied the natural hair
wave that it is difficult to tell whether it
has been waved by nature or by the curl
ing irons.
Both Hading's and De Marcy's hair
dressings are excellent Illustrations of that
arrangement. With care the waves last
Is days, and an American hairdresser,
having learned the process, could make a