davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

wearing for these visits their finest costumes.
The old women and children like to see all
this linery; ii appeals TO their pride. for they
feel IN a manner that it reflects great credit
upon them.
An ENTHUSIASTIC PHILANTHRoPIsT.
A list Of fashionable samaritans would be
incomplete unless Mrs. d. Willis James was
mentioned Her philanthropic personality
pervades so many arteries of Christian work,
that. TO quote vulgarly, she seems to have "a
finger in every pie.'' 'Tis the poor in this
case who pull out the plums of her placing.
An amusing pen picture was given shortly
of the magazine men sitting in the shade on
sWeltering days outlining icy stories and
sketches for the coming Christmas mum mbers.
/ believe Mrs. James actually does this. All
through the summer days up in her beautiful
Morriston home she is devising plans for the
poor when the snow comes.
He- work consists not only IN checks to
organized societies, but a deal OF personal su-
peTvision, frequently making suggestions of
great sociological value and actively seeing
10 their practical execution.
For two winters she has been providing
400 little tots at the Astor Memorial W tn hot
lunches She knew the recess desoation to
the child who has no lunch and The practical
value of Il sui stantial meal to these ill-fed
Italians n Mott street IN the middle OF the
day. So the luncheon WAS sent into the
scGoOlhoase at noon. and the afternoon
studies have been 10Y 10 the teachers.
The same charity is tobe maSn;tied for the
feast day Ii seems that all Mott street is in
vted TO diGner-harring the Chinese. The
mothers are washing out their best tandan s
and all the peanut venders and organ grind
ers are poiis linS their earrings AMI getting
fresh red Tanned shirts in honor OF Mrs.
James Christmas dinner. From hee olives
ol Sicily TO the coffee of Mocha they shall be
allowed to eat and drink their fill ami take
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

letting it drop at the waist in front in q
slightly blouse effect.
The cape collar has a foundation OF stiff
bobbinet which is covered with close up and
down rows of the narrow lace ruching to
form a rutfied surface.
From the armhoe inside the sleeves come
two long loops of the lace inserting sewe1 to-
gether in four-inch strips; these loop around
the arm at the bottom OF the sleeve and con-
time back to- the armhole, dragging the
sleeves up short at the inside. and leaving
it in a long puff at the outer line. Finally,
this adorable rig can be finished with belt.
that could almost make the Christmas bells
themselves ring out with JOY.
At each side of an inch wide band of white
satin sew two the same width OF Nile green
Persian embroidery. Have this. if possible.
worked in white iotos flowers ami finish it at
the side front with loose tow OF white satin
ribbon. Ali this done, your Christmas gown.
made alter an exquisite Doucet model, will
cost but s25. And if. as 1t WatZes under tue
mistletoe's shade. it is not caught and pro-
posed 10 on the spot it will be because heaven
has Iredestnated it 10 wither on the maiden
bough.
The next gown. Felix creation of pompa-
dour brocade and chiffon. would well become
the dark beauty Of q brunette The SKIRT with
its iront arranged in side plaits ihat flare out
at the foot. is of Il tea mauye shade scattered
with magenta roses. The lining is cr0s grain
Silk in rich orange 1t is slightly ira ned,
and the fullness at the top back is held in
place by hip shirrines that form triangle.
The bodice i in chiffons that sEaIe all the
way from palest pink TO deepest magenta.
The shoulder knot is OF velvet flowers toned
in the same way; and over the huge bow OF
deep magenta chiffon that forms the outside
of the sleeve is n scarf Of the pale pink that
holds il down ar the center
II the combinations here given are not
The Washington times., 1894-12-23
MRS. GOULD AND GOTHAM.
She viii Be One of the Social Leaders of
New York

She VIII Be One of the Social Leaders of
New York.
One can remember ten years ago the dread
full eommotion about the Vanderbilts getting
into society. They did it gracefully and now
are at the very top of the ladder. The old
commodore educated his children eXceilently,
and his daughters were all women of refine
ment and culture and fit to shine in anv
sphere of society. To-day you cannot find
more charming people people more run
alter, not for their money, but for their own
attractions. Tomorrow we will dismiss all
this talk about the GouIds.
Mrs George Gould has had much to con-
tend against, but she is pretty. clever. and
attractive. She was an actress. it is true, but
when one looks at the many noble and ducal
houses of England which have owed much
to an alliance with the staye-t5at Is. the
England of former days, not the music hall
re-enforcements of this age-it seems rather
funny to hear the comments on Mrs. Gould
and her staginess, says the New York Com
mercial Advertiser. There is a certain charm
about her, a little something different from
the stilted manner of the ordinary fashion
able woman, which is quite refreshing She
cannot help being picturesque. and one can
not blame her mlIiiner for accentuating this
very attractive feature.
There is yet something in her manner. a
little suggestive of the second act. where
there is always an entertainment and peo-
pie walk around and are presented TO one an
other and utter platitudes about society, but
just enough OF il TO win or many sincere adj
mirers. And then it is natural Mrs. Gould
will be one of the great leaders of New I ork
society IN a very short time. Then we must
look TO the claims of other millionaires.
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

Zouaye trousers. These for the bene6t of
those not familiar with the ZoGave costume,
be it said, are of medium fullness, and fall a
few inches below the knee, being turned up
underneath about the knee where they faSten
in knickerbocker fashion.
With this suit goes a small roll which en-
route is CARED as a man carries his GO at
strapped back of the handle bar. This small
roll is a dress skirt. 1t is made of cravenette,
and Is. therefore, not only waterproof. but
very light in weight. 1t is gored TO fit
smoothly about the hips, and is of the aver
age fullness at the back. 1t is unlined but
has Il deep facing of soft six about the foot
reaching to the point where the Zouaves
meet the side-buttoned CATERS.
This skirt is made to open all the way down
the left side. is strapped upon the machine
unbuttoned. and any skillful rider can. before
she dismounts. uniasten the strap and slip the
skirt ABOUT her waist. The minute she steps
of her wheel it slips into place, and in mir
ute more the buttons are tucked into the but
tonholes. and there she is skirted ior inspec-
ton 10y the most conventional.
For city riding Miss Cayvan is now at work
designing a heel toilet with a skirt that
she means 10 make look like auy othtr skirt
when the rider stands or is mounted. But
without straps or bands, merely by ingenious
cutting she expects to turn out model that
will have all its fullness disposed a la horse
back habit skirt, so that it shall neither bag
nor sag, and yet will keep a woman not only
clothed, but looking even to tho most con
seryative eyes rs if she were sweetly and
charmingly clothed in her feminine mind. in
Guiding dress. and not in what at best is
but a makeshift for masculine attire.
DINAH STUReIs.
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

liked. other colors and materials could be
substituted. For example. delightful and be-
coming effects can be made with yellow and
violet
Il economy is to be considered, make the
skirt OF yellow China silk lowered with knots
OF yiolets; haye also a corsaSe fringe or
shoulder knots of these-real yiolets in the
last instance-and make the bodice of yellow
mousseline de sole.
An enchanting Christmas gown for a cha
taine maid has skirt OF orchid pink velvet
and a bahv bodice oil chiffon.
The bertha OF ta3s shown in the design is
of yellow Venetian lace edging sewed square
over bobbinet. The coffee dyed yalenciennes
might easily substitute this rich lace and
when expense is of further consideration, the
skirt could be of liberty veiveteen. Though
of course when this is used. it would need to
be heavily lined and interlined to give it
that properly stately air q velvet skirt re-
quires. NINA FITCH.
The Washington times., 1894-12-23
CHRISTIANS NUMBERS.
ST. George, Who Welded the King {
M IN.,-, -,,ni,+

St George, Who Welded the King of
Egypt's Daughter.
Characteristic feature of December % in
the olden times were the mummers. who were
pretty common in England at the beginning
Of thus century. The Term is said to be de-
rived from the Flemish word mumme, or
mask. 1t is generally supposed that the
mummers were the descendants OF the old
miracle plays or mysteries so frequently per-
formed by the various guilds of art sans in
the Middle Ages, as also OF the later maskes,
as they were called, which found such favor
in the days of Queen Elizabeth and Of james
/. The mummers generally performed in
small bands, about six in number. accom-
panied by a young lad, who was always called
Jack, to collect for them during the perform
ance. ~ u
They always wore long streamers on their
hats and carried broad swords. After enact
ing certain rude lay relating to st. George
and the dragon, and containing illusions to
once well-known and popular ballad, en-
titled The King OF Egypt's daughter" they
concluded with dancingithe sword dance.
during which they constructed many curious
figures with their swords,
The leader OF the band represented st.
George. He spokeaa foggerel sort of rhyme:
II re am i st. George, the man OF courage bi Id,
Win my broad sword and spear to win more
thought the fiery dragon, put him to osluughter,
And that WAS how | won the King OF Egypt 5
daughter.
The play concludes with son from the
youthful Jack, while he is demanding pence
and shillings from the bystanders.
Here comes |, little Johnny Jack, with my box on
my back:
My family is large, tho ugh / am small; give q
little to keep US All
Roast beef, plum porridge, strong ale, and
mince pie,
Who likes them better than Father Christmas
and l?
''Hosmanay," or New Years Eve, rather
than Chr stmas Day, was the especial occasion
for the Mummers' exhibition
A word about Hogmanay, which is to the
Scotehman Christmas aud New Years Day
rolled into one; children, all gayly dressed, 20
singing through the streets. and AT every door
set up a cry OF "Hosmanay." They are re-
warded with cakes and bannocks and festival
pies.
Hogmanay is dying out in Glasgow and the
big towns. but in the villages and country
districts the old custom has lost none of its
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

hearts and stomachs Of few hundred news
boys in Duane street A big dinner, pro-
crossing appe;izingly from turkey to ice
cream. viii be given them When eating has
actually become a bore the little wage-earners
viii be supplied with cardigan jackets and
shoes In addition to the substantial gift
giving a box OF English holly viii be shipped
from the wood she owns. and every boy can
eat his dinner with the red berries OF her per
soma, rememhrance pinned on his coat. These
Young benelciaries decline to question Mrs
Asror's allegiance 10 tie Union lack. !Gt bless
her for her bounty aad watt hearty thanks
across the water TO Cliveden-on-the-Ihame
gIRs sLoAN's GOOD WORK.
Though Mrs. Astor's purse Strings may be
a foot or so longer than Mrs. willie"
Sioan's, the iat,eT's charity IS no less broad.
Each time The public sees Mrs. Sioan's name
he-alded at a fashionable function it would
be an even wager that the list OF some organ
lied charity could produce its duplicate.
From Mrs. Sloan's lovely home ia LenoN viii
come much grseneTy and American holly TO
be G uaily divided between her own stately
mans on and the sufferers at the Maternity
Hospital, which she endowed. Every bed
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

whose skirt cores are out outlined with mar
row ruching, which is made of yellow vaien-
c,ennes lace. the other materials Icing Nile
green satin under mousseline de Sole of the
same shade. Substitute for this perisha5le
drapery-a Partisan fancy Of course-white
Swiss, the very sheerest TO lie bad, and for the
rich saJn AMI real lace figured Nile green
chine silk, and imitation valen iennes colored
with coffee to pale yellow, aud see the result.
Begin hy masing an entire gown of the
China silk. Hang over the stiGy fared skirt
with organ pipe back. a second one OF the
Swiss in twelve umbrella cores, each one of
which is outlined witha tiny lace ruching.
At each side of the front gore there is q
second outlining OF the lac fashioned into
puffs to form an infant robe effect
In the same way rs the skirt. round baby
bodice is first made of the China silk, up to
putting the sleeves in and the deep cape col
lar on.
Over this gather the Swiss full at the back,
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

heaning plates to the sick and infrm who
cannot come.
OTHER TENDER-HEARTED FAsHIoNABLEs.
Reside Mrs. 4. Newbold Morris big dinner
AT the West Side Memorial and Miss Rhine
lander's feast for her school on Eighty-eighth
street. Miss Helen Gould has provided the
matron of the Home for the Friendless with a
cheek that viii serve jolly Christmas for all
lis inmates.
Another well-knOTn woman has selected
tUen:y-Sevcn children at the same school TO
send Santa Claus with lovely presents inthe
early morning, THIS Is in remembrance OF 4
child she has lost.
one Of the late 5Ir. Liyincstone's favor te
Christmas charities was giving bounu III
supply Of clothing 70 the children of the in
dustral schools. He gave check to an
organized society for the materials Strong
homespun and flannel were bought, and the
work apporticned y this society 10 poor and
deserving seam-trrsses. In tins way lay q
double eneGt The children were warmly
clothed and the women literally paid. Mr..
Liyings.one's daughter Mrs. Elhridge !.
Gerry. carries out to the letter her father S
policy.
This is only a cursory glance at the pleasure
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

their approach when they themselves are out
OF sight.
1t seems that Mr.. and Mrs. As.or object to
being public property all the time, moreover,
they ase fond OF neaadeii5 atOit the town
or country inco,. So to speak. hey don 20
the length O.. disS Using themselves il need
hardly te said, bat they 10 put or some very
plain toys, aod steal OF on foot eve-y little
while for walk among the pico.ian pedeS-
trians who c ancetO be abroad.
1t was upon one OF these excursions that
the club man came q ross them. Mrs. A-tOr
IN plain dark frock and uutlsItin ,UiSned
looking coat and small dark hat, ani her hus-
band were strollinG through some OF the side
streets up town. discussing styles Of archi-
lecture and anything else that came into
their minds. looking for all the world as
happy as AIRY and Arriet might on a stolen
stroll. There were not many people out on
foot. if being one Of the portions Of the town
where most of the inhabitants drive il they
go out in the evening, and there was small
chance OF the Astors being recognized.
Mrs Astor-Mrs John Jacob this is-has
always been a most independent lady. TWAS
even said when they were on their wedding
journey, and Mr. AstOr barga ned with
hotel clerk ter enc experience Of being
''roasted" for his social position and not be-
cause OF superior accommodations. that the
bride as she was then, stood by leaning her
elbows uaOn the Off counter, and evidently
approving her husbands good And in
the face and eyes of the domestic infelicities
that refuse 10 stay under the rose it is delight
full to come across this little idyl that tells
volumes for the camaraderie between at least
one husband and wife in the $50.
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

that would make charming hair ornament
or eontine the iron; OF anegligee robe all lace
and Howing silk, being a combination Of d a.
monds and olivines. with four large pearls
price ! 800.
OlYines, the Siber an green garGets. that
are lighter and softer than emsralls. are get
tin scarce, and the price has advanced or
them from SO to so a carat, 50 ii you have
any treasure them.
A new hair ornarent is a spray OF dia-
monds resembling closely a leather. One
four or five inches long. that is very hand
some. sells or @665. Pearls are most in de-
maud for arf-pins among the fashionable
either in single fine stones in clusters In
baby pins pearls. ruti les and diamonds pre-
vail. Small high combs for the hair, finely
wrought. in SOLID gold sell for 5zj and as
low rs Sl2 for less ella orate designs. ftheY
are set with diamonds the price amounts TO
$50 to $500.
damon studded she'll lorgnettes may be
had for 7165. Tiny side comis in gold and
diamonds are selling for gi IS for debutantes.
Link cuff buttons are the only stvle worn by
the men of fashion. and old India b eat n
gold set inclosing emeralds sells for SIS. In
shirt studs pearls first and then enamel finds
favor. And over and through all the special
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

with passementerie. Such a gown of Nile
green velvet has half corselet under the
arms. reaching from the fullness of the front
round to that of the back. in oriental colcrs
and mock emeralds. Another one OF white
cloth has similar corselet in green and gold
Still another design has the front AMI back
in two pieces and decollete over a high under
robe; that is seen down the sides. The front
is loose and the back has watteau The
two pieces are hordered and may be en-
broidered all round. A superb gown made
by Rouff is of deep yellow velvet, embroid-
cred with seed pearls over pale yellow NOUS
seline de sole.
These effects can be produced with mex
pensive materials Just rs we'll as with the rich
ones quoted. Yelveteen, cloth, crepon, fan
mel, will make beautiful gowns
WITH THE AID OF a LITTLE TASTE.
The new ornamentations, called a jour, so
popular. needs a word of description 1t
seems to have no equivalent name in English.
1t is an all-oyer pattern stamped out to leave
The Washington times., 1894-12-23
Ar,IIEAELE ,I9nELs.


Several moIels divide the favor One IS IN
outer robe open down the front and open
down the hack over an inner robe. so that il
has Ihs effect of being in two pieces. the oren
sIace down front and back some six or more
inches vide IL is fitted close at the sides
ana tEeTrout ani back edges are luose. as
they would be without darts, letting the full
plated inner robe fall freely out. Behind the
inner robe forms vatican and in front
hangs loose or else Is crossed by q belt over
which il falls with an efTec5 Of q blouse.
- Sometimes the outside rote IS hiSh-necked
and sometimes 1t Is low, with wide collar
turned over round the shoulders. The collar
in his ease Is II two sections like the robe. as
II does not cross the back. The material IS
rich AMI heavy fo- the outer portion. AS vel
vet or gros grain. and for the inside some
thing more delicate.
To Illustrate this idea can be happily cited
a gown made for the trOusseau OF the new
Princess M, whose wedding presents,
valuei at countless francs, have been the
I talk OF Paris this week. IL is OF heliotrOpe
velvet, bordered all round With sable. Oyen
over an inner rote OF heiiotr0pe silk deco
rat d a jour over yellow. The nigh neckband
IS velvet, with fur on the edge and The front IS
belted 10 form bCufant blouse. Another is
OF pompad0ur silk in large bouquets. where
red dominates on a ground of gray. decoile:e
over hi-h inner roGe OF aceordeOn-p plated
moUsseIGe de sole. gray over rose The wide
shoulder collar Is covered with cream guipure
over rose, and alt the edges are
BCEDERED WITH FTR.
This model is AIRED by closing the back
and making vatican plat in the velvet. The
effect is particularly good when the plait falls
from unGer the wide collar OF a decoliete.
have seen very beautiful one o. deep violet
velvet over an inner robe of gray six, on
which we're appliques OF cream lace. In each
corner OF the velvet skirt at the foot and in
each corner of the collar was also lace ap-
p:ique.
Another style OF gown dis peases with the
inner robe and closes upto the throat in one
piece. 1t has the same fuilness at back and
front, which may be in box on side piaits or
gathers, and the same clinging at the sides,
which may be by plain fitting or by appiiqu-
ing full outside down onto a close lining
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

vitality All the world makes very merry
jack forgets his fail and Jeannie puts by
her wheels.
OF the merry Christmas revels in England
500 years ago those of Christmas day 1915
Included a grotesque pageant. one OF the
features OF which was moving mountain,
glttering as If with gold and precious stones
On its top was a tree OF gold with wide
spreading branches. When the mountain
opened a maiden dressed in cloth Of gold and
crowned as queen ca re forth. She was fol-
lowed by henchmen in suits of gold; Nor
ris dance was performed. and at its conclu-
sion tie dancers entered the mountain and
were drawn aWay
The Washington times., 1894-12-23

will have its Christmas decoration for tired
eyes to enjoy. while in the various wards
will be spread all the substantial delicacies Of
the dav for those who can sit at table. From
registering Office to nursery all will be bright
ness and cheer as a gift from the woman who
regards her millions as trust.
Mrs. Sloan also gives a great dinner al the
German Industrial Home, and means TO he
present and distribute the Christmas tree gifts.
if possible In fact number OF fashi )nabie
women will make point Of driving atoIt 10
the schools of which they are patronesses,
The Washington times., 1894-12-23
MILLIoNAlREs' GIFTS.
Some Splendid Biioux TO Be Exchanged by
Rich Folks Christmas Morning.

Some Splendid Biioux TO Be Exchanged by
Rich Folks Christmas Morning.
When the tide of Christmas shopping sets
in the milIonaires on voyages OF discovery
for elegant novelties steer their barks
freighted with shekeIs into the hayens of the,
dealers of precious stones.
Each dealer of prominence prides himself
most upon his own exclusive designs, and
many OF these are of extreme beauty.
IN Fifth avenue establishment for in
stance, where diamonds are specially and
other stones come in for their share OF mag
niiicent attention, 1 saw n glittering tiara
that is to adorn. after Christmas. the head of
Madison avenue railroad magnets wife at
the opera and the Patriarchs' balls, and so on,
the modest price upon which is 81, 200. by
clever mode OF setting, the tiara with Il few
turns OF the wristcan be transformed into
diamond necklace
Another necklace which might grace fairy
is of pearls, beautifully matched and set in
five strands; al intervals there are five tiny
bowknots set soIidiy in pearls. holding the
strands in place, and from each bowknot
there are five pearls pendant; price merely
$3.50.
A bit of brio brac five or six inches high
is shaped like a castle and covered with a bit
OF fine old tapestry; the doors open to dis
close tiny castle within made entirely of
the natural secretion Of some orienta shell,
aud with wondrous workmanship. TIE shell
castle is set as II breastpin or may be kept in
its case for exhibition in u cabinet OF
treasures.
One OF the newest fances is the revival OF
old Indian modes Of cunning manipuations
with gold pieces and precious stones. prices
! from S175 To $780,
The newest ring is known as the banquet;
it is a sort OF orified marquise setting
about many small fine gems. beauty in iia-
monds sci ing or the pretty penny OF S700.
Tiny animals as elephants, tigers, lizards,
grasshoaI ers, fishes. etc., in finely wrought
gold studded with gems are a craze in elegant
brooches. costing from S125 upwards. The
popular sword for long lace and scarf pins t
al is al to fashion. The newest thing IN
its place is Neptune fork; one, for example,