Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-29

them for some student friends Of his and
was left out in the cold. The next day !
had my Chinese servant go out on the road
about ten miles beyond the city. He waited
there till two good carts came along and
then smuggled these into the hotel In q
roundabout way, SO that the mandarins
in the morning, and sfter some tea and
toast by the light Of the candle inspected
my outfit. You will not see more villainous
faces in any rogue's gallery than those Of
my two muleteers, and as for the mules,
Barnum's woolIy horse had a coat of silk
compared to theirs. My bedding and eat
ables were put into one cart and my Chi
nese boy crawled In on top Of them took
the second and before daybreak we were
ready to start. We drove for miles through
the city Of Tien-Tsin just at dawn, and had
chance to rec how the poorest Of these
five hundred million people look when rous-
ing themselves for another day of their
everlasting hustle. Men in sheepskin coats
more like animals than humans filled the
streets. Already coolies were pushing bar
rows over the rough pavements. and other
laborers were carrying mighty loads on
poles across their shoulders. In the suburbs
we rode through long lines Of novels out Of
which disheveled Chinese men and women
crawled and looked at us with blinking
eyes. We passed the homes Of thousands
OF squatters, and as we drove along the
river We saw that it was lined with little
kennel-like sheds made Of bamboo mating,
Many OF these were not larger than a dog
mousse and those of the size Of hogshead
looked palatial beside them. Many were
half cylinders of mating Just about large
enough to cover a cider barrel and long
enough for their owners to crawl in and
sleep. screen Of ragged blue cotton form
ed the front Of these huts and all of the
cooking Of the owners had to be done out
side 1t was cold and / shivered in my
overcoat- L saw one family lighting a fire
They had no matches and were trying to
ignite the wood with flint. Another hut
1lnrfkiGhQ - III
the size of baby carriage. and its top was
a foot above the roof of the house In
some places there were holes dug into the
EARN ana mating placed over them. The
walls or the city formed the back of many
Oh these beegars homes and others were
Duit against the banks of the river You
hhu pegSars' quarters outside of every Chi
nese CITY, put there are few places where
IIe poor suner more than they do in north
emma. Tien-Tsin is as cold as Minneanolis
ana these holes covered with straw matting
are the homes Of thousands.
On the Great Plain,
Passing these We went over the Peiho
river on a bridge of boats, and then drove
through suburb after suburb, until we cama
cut upon the great plain, and began our
trip over the Chinese Appian Way.
The Appian Way! What a fraud! What
a travesty on the name of roadI 1t was
filed with ruts, and the dust was knee
deep. Here and there stood a ragged road
maker, who pretended to keep the highway
In order He smoothed the dust down into
the ruts with long-handled fiat hoe maxi
ing it so that cart could get tumble
without being aware of its danger The
road in many places was so narrow that
two carts could barely pass. and nowhere
was 1t much wider than the average Ameri-
can alley. 1t follows the telegraph lines,
and in some places 1t has been built above
the surrounding country. Here and there
gangs of soldiers and half-naked coolies
were at work carrying dirt in baskets and