Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1894-07-15
CHEFS HAVE VIEWS.
Some Famous Cooks Pass Upon tho
Respective Merits Of Gas.
ALSO ELECTRICITY and CHARCOAL.
which Gives tho Best Results In Cook
ery-what Sort Of Heat Brings Out
the Most Flavor.
fcorrosnondence of the pIspatch.l

NEW YORK, July A.-Tnese nave been
oft-mooted questions lately on both con-
tinents In boiling the nature Of the fire
matters little: but in broiling. especially.
also In baking. opinions differ as to the
merits OF the new methods.
London has gone over to electricity.
Paris dlscards improvements. and clings
to charcoal
To ind what New York through Its
best hotels and clubs prefers, 1 accom-
pllshed an investigating tour by inter
viewing the chefs.
Eyes. / use gas" said Chef Ranhofer,
of Delmonico's. but l don't like 1t. 1t
Is going to be taken out next month, and
I am glad Of 1t. Gas falls to bring out
the best there is in meat or game. Then
IL Is more expensive than charcoal. and
~ Is dirty. Gas seems to dry up Ihs sur
face OF any meat that Is broileI over or
under IT,
Most of Delmonicos charcoal IL home
made. The wood Is burned down arc
then compressed. II Is kept IN covered
boxes in the cellar. The cher aduei tn''-
he did not think artificial gas wodii ever
be used as a popular method IN oook"E'
AT the Waldorf the great broilers lie
over beds of charcoal. To my quest"t
the chef simply pointed to this lat WIN
q satisfied smile on his face
I found this the only hotel wncre cieC-
tricity had been used. The appuances
were put in, but thrown out after lie"
weeks trial.
"They were fine for warning one
feet-yes: but not" said the chst' 'ol
cooking. 1t took as long for "d.er Z
boil on them as to prepare oieaA'
fast"
"That electricity is used to perfection
I'm London" he continued, there Is no
doubt. Strange as It seems, they apply
electricity better to these things abroad
than we do in America. When we can
get the hang OF 1t here in cooking as they
do | believe it will be the approved way
in kitchens. AS yet we haven't mastered
the art"
GAS IS DIRTY.
'T don't like gas for boiling" said the
chef, cit is very dirty II we had natural
gas here as in Pittsburg-good enough,
but the other clogs up the pipes"
Gas is the fire that boils and bakes
entirely here" the Holland House chez
told me. 81 prefer 1t to any method. The
gas is cleaner. prevents noises and DIS
order. can be turned off and on at Will
and is altogether the greatest OF Kitchen
Improvements"
"But do you think 1t brings out the
flavor of broied meats as"well as coal?'
L asked.
Just as we'll. 1 defy any one to detect
any difference in a steak broiled by gas
and one by charcoal"
At this hotel the flames come from the
top. The broilers are regulated near to
or far from the jets by series OF
grooves.
"What do you think?" 1 inquired OF the
chef at that eminently French hostelry-
the Hotel Martin.
81 have never tried anything but char
coal nor will l." was mis- emphatic reply
The old way suits me, and don't be-
lieve any new method will ever do os
well. | think | could tell chicken broiled
by gas anywhere. 1t would Aave no deli
cate taste. Its flavor would not have been
touched
Il couldn't do Justice TO any broiled dish
II l had to prepare 1t on gas"
At MURRAY HILL.
when the gas goes. I 60" was the
dramatic announcement II the presiding
genius at the Murray-Hill kitchen.
Lines Of great gas ranges we're glowing
in DISCHARGE OF duty as 1 entered. The
range used here needs special mention.
Ii is a homemade AFFAIR. Baggi, the cntf
there invented IT, and has been using II
for ten years. He has for IL the love or
4 father, as it has for him the obedience
Of a child.
II also has the Jets above, like the one
at the Holland House. but over these are
laid huge bricks. These bricks become
intensely hot, and Baggi claims that the
heat they emit does the broiling-not the
gas This Is the same method used TO
perfection in Pttsburg There the natural
gas is turned on among bricks This
chef says that the result is the same as
that by charcoal, with the means much
simpler and cleaner
asked him about the dirt. I'VE do not
have any" he answered. IAN expert
manages the blowers downstairs, so the
jet, when turned on. gives three quarters
air TO one quarter gas.
Then the expense is equalized. You
see the great pan under the range? That
catches all the grease that drips from
the broiling, and IS sold to soup manu-
facturers.
THE great advantage is the lack OF
heat In the kitchen. You can hardly grasp
what this means on a summer day when
sixty people are at work down here
WOULD NOT USE THEM.
And you,' L said TO the PlaZa cnei-
"do you use the new methodist"
I'VE have them, but l won't use one or
them. Give me charcoal frst-then hard
coal-but no gas or electricity. For toast
or wahles / use the gas. for there is no
delicate flavor TO be emphasized. We also
boil large quantities Of vegetables by
gas-when We do not steam them-but
for broillng nothing Is so perfect as char
coal We use three bags a day here in
our range"
Nor did the chef Of the Savoy like gas.
lie said he had used gas range that
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