The Bennington banner. [volume] (Bennington, Vt.) 1858-1894, 1894-02-02
CALLING IN CHINA.
AN AMERICAN WoMAN'S VISIT TO A
TAOTAPS WIFE.

Riding In State In Sedan Chair-Hospi-
tally characterized by Pleasant Ceremo-
MES Ten, Birds Nest Soup, Scotch
Whisky, Cigars and Other Good Things.
| Ny visit to the wife of the taotai had
been talked of for long time. First of
all, must tell you what a taotai is. He
is the chief magistrate of three flu, or de-
partments, in the province of Che-kiang,
one of the IS provinces of China. The eX-
tent of territory under his jurisdiction
would correspond to the state of Massa-
chusetts.
When at last an suspicious moment
seemed to present itself for the proposed
visit, it was quite an anxious question
what would be proper toilet for me to
wear. 1t would not do to go in evening
costume, and yet l wished to do as much
honor as possible to the event. finally
decided upon a light silk visiting toilet
My husbands official sedan chair was
made ready for me, one of my bearers or
namenting the interior with flowers. My
little daughter, with her amah, occupied
another chair and with official servants
preceding us, one carrying my large visit
ing card-especially prepared for the occa
sion and bearing my name in black Chi
nese characters on red ground-and 9th
ers walking beside the chairs, we proceed
ed on our way.
To reach the taotai's yamen Presidency
we were obliged to traverse good part
of the suburb where the foreign settlement
is situated, then to cross large branch
of the river in a sampan, into which the
sedan chairs are bodily lifted, and after
entering the gates of the city proper to
make our way through several dirty i'll
smelling streets. Upon the wide entrance
doors of the yamen are painted the sup
posed portraits of the four protecting gods.
After entering the outer portals we trav-
ersed many cOurtyards, all of which seem
ed deserted, the men having all been sent
away that they might not look upon a
lady. When we reached the part of the
establishment devoted to the ladies, l was
met by the venerable mother of the taotai
with whose sweet face and soft white
hair l was much impressed-his wife,
grown up daughters, sons wife and nu-
merous attendants, and two or three amahs
carrying young children, one the little
2-year-old son of the taotai.
l was at once ushered into room where
was a reception dais composed of Il seat for
the guest and one for the hostess, separated
by little table, really nothing more than
an elbow rest and used for placing the GER
emonial cups of tea. These seats have no
backs and are very high, so one has to sit
well forward and rest the feet upon
wooden footstool The seat upon the left
of the hostess is the one of honor, and after
much ceremony, by which was invited
by the mother of the taotai to take this
seat, myself desiring that she should occu-
ply it, we were finally seated. The wife of
the chief magistrate and her daughter
sat facing the dais on a sort of COUCH and
the other ladies and attendants stood
grouped about us.
Almost Immediately we were served with
birds nest soup in porcelain cups, which
found to be rather good and which is con-
sidered great delicacy by the Chinese.
The conversation was carried on by
means of our amahs acting as Interpreters.
The children formed the chief topic, and
much curiosity was manifested as to my
little girls clothing My dress, too, was
carefully inspected and was no doubt
thought very peculiar. The taotai's wife
was attired in beautifully embroidered
satin jacket of plum color, on the front
and back of which was sewed n square
on which was embroidered the insignia of
her rank. The plated silk skirt was a
lovely dark red, and she wore wide black
silk trousers. In her hair were magnif-
cent pearls and other jewels. The daugh-
ter's face was much powdered, and her lips
were painted bright red. The jackets of
the Chinese ladies reach almost to the
knees and have wide flowing sleeves The
skirt almost conceals the ample trousers,
but displays the tiny feet incased in their
pretty embroidered shoes of silk.
After conversing awhile was invited
to a small table seating only four persons
and laden with small dishes containing
innumerable kinds of Chinese cakes and
sweetmeats. To my joy saw some Eng
lish biscuits, obtained | suppose, espe-
cially for me. Something else was brought
forward nleo for my benefit--some Scotch
whisky we'd rs wine and some cigars.
But, alt, l"gh | made semblance of ac-
cepting lie former, the cigars were quite
out of the question. My. hostess and the
others smoked long stemmed pipes and
probably thought it strange did not join
them in what seemed matter of ceremony.
Some of the most tempting viands | was
obliged to decline, making the excuse of
not being able to manage the chopsticks.
When we arose from the table, was in
vited to visit the house. We proceeded
first to the apartments of the taotai's
mother, where tea was served in cups with
covers.
In this room / was again offered cigars,
and my hostess was handed beautifully
enameled water pipe ready to smoke. The
room we were visiting was furnished with
q large, handsomely carved bed and cup
boards, table and soWe chairs, but no
carpet. The other rooms we saw were all
of the same order and showed no individ-
uality. Each lady was led as she walked
by one or two maids gently holding her
wrists, and in this manner we made our
way to the garden. Our progress was very
slow, for the feet of the ladies were so
small that it was with great difficulty they
could walk at all. On our reaching the
pavilion facing the large garden l found
that our hostess was not of the party, and
on inquiring for her was told that she
could not walk so far, owing to her very
small feet, but was following us in her
sedan chair. In this pavilion we found
another and larger table set for us, with a
repetition of the dishes of the first, but
here we had tea in a teapot and cups with
handles The ladies were very talkative
and affable, and after telling me the ages
nE IL