The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1894-07-15
FALSE PIECES.
The Preparation of Human Hair in
Paris for the Fair Sex.


Paris is the center of the fine manufacture of
prepared human hair. Of course. the reference
here is to woman's hair. for mans hair is
worthless for any industrial purpose. Aside
from the houses that manufacture exclusively
for the export trade, the city numbers about
1000 hairdTesserS and 5000 wOrkmen. about
half OF whom are engaged In the manufacture
properly so called The source OF supply of the
hair may be divided into three categOres. The
hair OF the first category is furnished by foreign
countries, India and China being the largest
suppliers. The hair is exclusively black and
gray. and comes in boxes, carefully
packed. In addition to these countries
Italy, Spain, Germany and Russia sup
ply small quantities. The hair from
India and China 9ndergoes quite a lengthy
preparation. 1t is first matched, sorted and
combed, and then immersed in solution of
soft soap and carbonate Of soda, in order TO
scOur it. Upon coming from this bath 1t is
united root end TO root end and formed into
locks that are tied near the roots. 1t yet re-
mains TO render the hair thin and flexible. To
this effect it is first placed in earthen pans
filled with elaborated wafer and water mixed
with hydr0chlOriC acid, which renders it thin
and decOlOriZeS 1t. Then II is Immersed in
solution of soft soap and chorate Of potash. in
order 10 render 1t l"sS brittle. Finally definite
color ana de are given ii.
A light or blonde shade is obtained with
Oxygenated water or saturated solution OF
carbonate of potash To dye II black It is
boiled for few hours in bath prepared with
a decoction OF nutgalls or Campeachy wood. in
which sulphate of iron is dissolved and into
which a little sumac is put IN order to give 1t
a luSter and remove the blush tint peculiar to
the hair of the dead. Finally it Is bleached by
immersng II III several baths OF OXygenated
water 10 which few drops of ammonia have
been added. Thus pre- pared. the Chinese or
HindOO hair is sold TO the hairdreSsers, who
work 1t TO their fancy and afterward sell il at
more or less moderate prices. The finest hair,
forming the second category, is that of
France, and comprises variety of
shades exceeding hundred. The most
beautiful is furnished by LlmOusin, Brit
tany. Normandy and Beauce. Some lots
are derived from young ladies' boarding schools
and from converts. All this Is collected by
travelling men called cutters, who make their
circuit toward spring and visit the villages TO
gather their crop. In some localities of Brit
Iainy and Auvergne, on certain market days,
the damsels who desire TO sell their head of
hair get up on cask, undo their hair and
allow ii TO fall over their shoulders. An auction
soon begins, and every lot. as soon as cut, is
delivered to the highest bidder for spot cash.
This product does not pass into the bath, but is
simply combed and then secured with buck
wheat flour. Finally, the third category COM
prlses hair (Which, it must be confessed, is
cassed among the most esteemed derived from
the sorting Of combings collected by ragpick-
ers, who stuff it into bags just as they find it,
soiled by dust, felted by water and adherng TO
the sweepings OF houses, and sell it to small
manufacturers, who undertake TO utilize it,
Annaleg IlQuSIriSleS,