Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1894-06-10

A FASHIONABLE GOWN AND HAT.
small back-room Of trimmer for a firm
| that make n speciality OF mourning bon
nets and hats.
How long should widow wear a veil
over her face?" / asked.
"Three months. After that, especially
in summer, the veil should be thrown
back. A face veil can be worn OF heavy
silk Brussels net with a deep. bias border
OF Grape. This should be carried over the
bonnet and fastened over the other veil
at the back with II small. dull Jet pin"
SHOULD the veil actually go to the hem
Of the gown"
That depends on whether the woman Is
frail or strong, tall or short. No woman
should burden herself down with a veil
she can hardly carry. nor risk her figure
by iengthening it unduly.
"A long veil should b. put on thus" and
the trimmer illustrated with the work in
her hands.
The little frame bonnet was touue-
shaped. of softest silk The veil was laid
on bias with a long point hanging in
front IL was drawn closely about the
frame and pinned In small plaits oyerlay-
ing one another at the extreme back. This
MADE IT fall In fold effect. The strings
were OF uncut velvet and short.
This bonnet" said the trimmer. "ls for
an elderly woman in New York. who has
Just lost her husband; she is quite shor,
ana stout. and the long-pointed effect
gives her talness. while the lack Of fuI
ness IN the front does not accentuate her
breadth"
when the relative is less than n bus-
band Will Grape wells be used?" I asked.
NO. indeed. The silk grenadine that
was so popular last season with its wide
In -
from 10 &lG: much cheaper than the
crepe. and they are graceful and easy IN
carry. The latest fashion Is to have the
grenadine with deep border OF crane on
the bottom. am making up all my sum-
mer orders in this stvls"
The grenadne veil Is three-quarter
length. 1t is doubled and placed on the
toque, Observation-Disclosures. caught in tiny
plaits. and fastened down with small
dull-jet pins all around the bonnet, form
ing iabot down the back on tho ton Is
placed large fiat butterfly or Alsatian
bow OF Grape. This lies perfectly fiat.
caught by pins.
No white ruche about the face under
meath the bonnet is now allowable. TT
is too aggressive a label" said a French
milliner with a shrug.
The Marie Stuart bonnet that was so
much adopted last summer is out: nothing
but the English toque-long and narrow
is worn.
Distinctly no dull beads are allowed al
the edge OF the bonnet no matter at
what stage of the mourning.
The strings are of Terry ribbon. This
comes in Nos. and widths at 75c. a
yard. 1t is tied at the side in a small bow.
a HAT FOR LENoX.
"When the veil Is abandoned" con-
tinued the trimmer then she wears
hat like this" and she showed me
lovely one that was being boxed to send
up to LenoX.
The straw was black. OF course, and
very coarse 1t shaded the face con-
siderably. the back turning up sharply
against a narrow pointed crown.
Across the front was a broad. dull
| jet buckle. with bunch Of black vio,ets
| standing up straight from either end,
| giving the favored two-s1e effect.
A broad Virot bow OF dun armure
| silk went entirely across the back
| BLACK roses and black vlolejs." she
| said. "were to be extensively used In
| mourning this summer"
| CARRIAGE AND CHURCH BONNET.
| | saw there also the daintiest little
! bonnet for church and afternoon driving
I IL was composed of black rubber stems
| wrapped thickly about a stout piece Of
| wire. This fitted about the mead closely
| like a band, and was finished at the back
| by a broad. stiff bow of Grape that stood
| upright. In the front was "A loose bunch
| OF black violets, run through by small
| dull ornament. As the wearer has TN
mistakable red hair, the effect Will be
| artistic.
| HOW FIRST COLOR IS WORN.
"Where is the first bit OF color intro
] duced?" | asked.
| 'In the matter OF flowers? 1t may he
| a dozen purple violets mixed with the
| black ones. Or black roses whose hearts
are purple. Always go from black to
violet, then to lavender white, and gray"
| She showed me one bonnet for second