The morning news., 1894-11-11
The WOMAN OF FASHION.
Some New Kinks in Gowns and Other
Things.

Disappointmsnt-she Is Spread Out
Instead Of Being Tall and Naughty.
Copyright.
New York, Nov. 1O-This winters girl
has been very much sat upon" Instead
OF being tall and naughty, with puffs high
ana with upright slender effects, she gives
you an impression Of g lattenins and
broadening out process. Take her from
top to toe. beginning with the toe. her
skirt spreads out so far that II is quite eS-
hausting to reckon the number of yards
there must be in it. Her bodice is a blouse,
standing out all around the waist lines.
Her sleeve puffs have been hattened at
the shoulder, and give vent to their feel
ings at the elbow. Her collar is all side
loops and choux. Her hair has been fat
tened into part at the top. but stands out
in waves at the sides. Even her hat is
crushed into a bit of a crown and sticks out
each side of her face. The stately maiden
is no more; the demure, crushed maiden
lifts her face appealingly, and captures
the heart Of man.
The winter is fun of fancies and oddi-
ties. One of the fads is the set consisting
mun and boa just as you do your hat;
and wear all three with your plain blue
or gray or brown gown. Many have very
elaborate trimmings. The hat is a velvet
covered one-presumably brown-and is
trimmed with mink heads and tails, with
dahlas in soft autumnal reds, and with
loops of brown velvet ribbon. Your muf
is quite as elaborate; but the flowers are
omitted from the boa.
Trimming hats in front is quite passe.
Everything stands ont at the side. Be
yond this, there is no law; except that your
stock of hats includes one that is velvet
covered, in large shape for afternoon
wear; and that the others are all small.
Crowns and brms frequently disagree. A
velvet crown has acloth brim; a fur crown
a velvet brim, or none at all, the latter be-
ing the most popular. A substitute for the
old-time brim is a sort of ruche, or small
double edge, which stands about the crush
crown. Between the upper and the lower
edge of this ruche, goodly portion of the
trimming is often placed. For instance,
you win see little fur heads peepins out;
or velvet choux, or bunches of those tiny
tips that are all the rage.
Let me describe a few hats A beau
tiful velvet crown, crush, OF course. is
surrounded by a protecting band of net.
closely spangled. The band is very stir,
and has a square effect across the front,
pointing slightly in the center. At each
side the net stands up in donkey's ears,
caught with fiat jet rings.
others Of these velvet crowns have no
band or other finish, but, instead, are
deftly curved up and down, and the trim
ming placed I'm the recesses thus made.
One of these is closely dotted with let
beads, and has small mink heads placed
in the pleats all around the edge. An
other peculiar creation, but most fetch
ing one has a double wing of velvet at
the front and anOfhaF a left sf1a
of the back. Between them lies the crown
of black Persian lamb, not fatty and
decoriously by any means, but in sweeps
and curves that only the skilled hand
can give At the right side stands a
velvet crushed loop-bow, with aigrettes
and tiny feathers.
These fascinating crowns are such a
mystery. They lock so simple. You think
to yourself. Why it doesn't matter in
what shape 1t comes, so long as It's caught
up in Fuckers and folds Then you take
yard of velvet, and begin to fuss with
it. Never did you find yourself so alb
solutely helpless. That velvet won't be
puckered in to pretty little folds, and you
can't get any style into the frills, and
pleats you have put into IL. 1t looks dow
dy and ridiculous; and when you have
given up in disgust, you look at your vel
vet in dismay. The experimenting has
taken out all of its freshness and crisp
ness.
One dressy afternoon hat is sufficient
to describe, for the regulation shape of
crowns and brims ara uninteresting after
the unique toques and capotes have been
studied. This one, however, is a beauty.
| 1t is of palest, softest fawn, a pinkish
| tint, and it is a silky beaver. The low
/ crown is encircled with a band of mink,
set with great balls, or half balls, Qor the
! back is naO, of cleaning shnestones.
| The left side is one mass of small, deli
! cate cream tips.
The evening hat, however, is what steals
all our admiration and love. We haven't a
| thought for the others when we hold
| one Of those precious bits of loveliness
/ in our fingers and yet they are like unto
| the day capote. They have those self
! same crushed effects only far more deli
/ cate and lovely. Here is one In spark
| ling emerald tints. Its little velvet crown
! Is spangled in green and gold; a won
| drous spake-like ornament Is in front
| curying far cut at the sides. The curves
are set here and there with large emer-
| aid eyes.
There is contrast. Looking at the
/ hat from the trent, you would call It a
/ pale blue velvet Tam O'Shanter. 1t has
one Of those double edges which / de-
seribed. all in fine jet, with a blue velvet
chou between. At the back, however
| the tam is cut off short without any cere.
rneny, and long loops Of soft black silh
drooP over the coiffure.
! Pale blue is a great favorite for even
/ ing wear. It blends so beautifully with
! the fashionable furs. A tiny French
crawn Of golden balls has an edging OF
blue velvet set in a broad ruche. About
the ruching is placed row of these
minute, fascinating little tips, that trim
| so many OF the evening bonnets. They are
| scarcely as large as your little finger
These were in cream; and there was also
a bunch of them at one side OF the Iowa.
! bic little capOte.
Another had quiet fur crown, very
I small, which was set about the head with
standing steel edge In the Roman KEY
pattern--in front, tight knot OF turquois
velvet rested upon the fur, and twists OF
| the velvet were stretched upon IL, to each
side where they spread into two loops
I Just in front Of each set OF loops was one
/ Of the balls of brilliants.
| A demure little crush OF cerlse velve
was sprnkled closely with steel had an
edge Of the little tips, in black, and
bunch Of them at the side, intermlnglet
/ with algrettes.
There is a new industry abroad. Tn,
fashionables have taken Il up. Not IN,
tra-fashionables, you understand, fol
] .g..G A.