The morning news., 1894-11-25

~. the winter styles are likely TO be-
...sr+ which is supposed to usher in
80. .s,son's styles was behindhand for
raason this year. for somehow there
,, surprises in the way of custum-
- ,, be found at it. We were all pre-
s for Puquin skirts and jet bodices
yarvet sleeves and pearl trimmings
~ss1 1aces. We knew just how they
,,,5 be disposed in the costume, just
.rs The fur band ought to go, just
the puffs should droop, and the exact
-. cf the revere. So no one enjoyed the
ut show quite so much as usual. Truth
. roll all this magnihcence is telling
mon us. We have reached the limit of
.sriration; and epithets and exclama-
,.,os grow so wearisome. 1t is tiresome to
D.. IN a constantly ecstatic state over
,bs beauty Of a gown or a bonnet. Even
w. shop windows are overriding their dis
rlays. It is a constant panorama of
4 rsr7ffcence. so constant that one is sa-
,is,5l with it all, and becomes Indifferent
N all OF it. How far off is the reaction?
When viii the reign of simplicity be
usherei in
No wonder lovely woman heaves a
great Ssh Of relief when she comes in
from busy social afternoon, slips off
that heavy, jetted satin gown. and takes
out the simplest and Ioosest of wrappers.
n How She revels in that light, warm elder
Il down or cashmere or flannel-whateve II
may be. For just a few minutes she
lies still in the great chair, with every
nerve relaxed and eyes closed. Then
II comes the hateful task of another elabor-
ate toilette. Thank heaven. some of us
have more time or wrappers and home
gowns than that. 1t is the gown that a
81 woman loves before everything else. When
She gets into it she is no longer the "ad-
vsuced' woman, with rights" but only
al unobtrusive, attractive female, rest
ms IN her pretty sitting room, with those
graceful folds lying all about her, and
n with calm and sweet content in her face.
vnan you see her thus, you wish there
were no such things as platforms and
clubs where grave matters rewarding
7oman's welfare require discussion. You
would like her to stay right there and
comfort YOU with her brightness and sim
pie talk
You like her in a simple wrapper.
4 but find her even more attractive in
pretty tea gown. The creator of the
Tea gown was surely inspired. We may
touch 1t with fashion, we may add ex-
'ravagant trimmings, it may SAVIOR Of
ones Individuality, or ii may be quite
plain. II YOU have a pet fancy in the
way Of drapes or lace arrangements,
you may bring it out in your tea gown.
Nothing is freer from tie DEGREES of
fashion although still conforming TO them
# in d vague, general way.
n For the modest gown crepe and crepon
n are still the materials-crepe, in both
otton and wool, crepe, in soft, silky
folds. and very gauzy; so thin, indeed,
that it rs generally lined with silk of a
n corresponding or brightly contrasting
II lade
Perhaps the very prettiest of crepe
II gowns that has been worn so far this
season Is Of a delicate gray tint. lined
Ri throughout with bright cerise silk If
N 'ol were bold enough to peep beneath
HE soWu, you would see that the ce-
rise was finished with a deep plated
III aolneins, that made the gray stand out.
Inc loot of the gray was trimmed with
81 Two rows of cerise velvet ribbon, set
between double ruches of the crepe. The
III waist trimming is most charming.
E '9uaro yoke back and front, is made of
alternate gray and cerise stripes, joined
RI by delicate open-work embroidery. At
IA 'hs back the yoke IS outlined by a fiounce
9- cream lace, the net of which is caught
over the shoulders, down the sides a
b iue way, and then crosses the cor
selet IN quaint fashion, falling below the
n waist aue, over each hip. in a long, slen-
~ point Just at the belt is a velvet
Ao- each side. The lower bodice is
salAere1 70 the yoke and caught in at
-7 nat with lovely twisted scarf of
Us crepe, falling in ends to the feet,
.--Asd with chouX. The sleeves are big
VI %. course, of the striped gray and cerise.
ne collar is a crush of the bright velvet
'-I lna whole thing is as bright and
5 '1.7tm and delicate as one could ask.
another Of these light creations is in
# tN 'hlnncr cream crepe, touched with
III ''h and blue lines q wide intervals, and
wan halt-inch stripe of the blue, once
IA " awhile The rib of the crepe is very
li-e This is lined with thin white silk.
III Maoe simply, with the back laid in
2"' mat point in at the belt ard with
.' i2inj outlined by a ruffie of fine lace,
anu Anshed at the belt by short, crush
# 9'FS OF blue ribbon. The lace is brought
over the shoulders, and down the
,1-J each side of a loose surplice effect
-s s"iPlte is made of three fine ruffies
n me crepe, that are doubled so that
7 que stripe forms an edging for
Az" mere too, blue ribbon is tied, and
h ','> IN slreamers to the feet.
Fl ~ PINK cashmere can be made at home,
Il m ny Is II, and yet it Is very effect
Fl ', 4Hls one has a Vatican, a modest one,
49, round collar in the back of the
4 ''r,. .'''N, IIs edge is laid with narrow, fiat
q pure IN d pretty edge, and just in
4 ~ |& separated only by a band OF black
p9't5 Hopon, lies insertion to correspond
Il KIN 0-e ana insertion lie partly over the
M bringing out the design more
Il -'E' The stock collar of black velvet
II f,a- 's oase covered with the edging In
Il ,50-' ~ place Of the deep collar, lie two
s ,andykes of the cashmere, each
"A E"y1 OF two points-a short one inside
ts, oNs one that reaches to the waist
n ~ oL me four points is trimmed with
n ,,ir, 'Ser llon and edge, with the black
N fsr. Iaid between Broad moire ribbon
N eg', beneath the Watteau, ties in
n ,tl lu d long bow.
N f 'he delicate gown comes the mag
n tu one which my lady dons for an
4 ''".e lea. one Of these, debutante
n ns, ."Nes place next Wednesday, The
n .,",' VINO introduces her only daughter
"a . Dung, and wears a gown of del
n ,f. '."N'o brocade which falls in ricn
.als sht from the neck and spreads
I'M gun at the back. IT Is surmounted
n d. ..ildf OF pervenche-the new pur-
r.r' ''Ne' covered with rare lace.
n b.., round yoke of the same lies Just
"A r. '4l of the yoke drop pendants of