The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1894-04-07
FOR THE TABLE.

If one might saunter into The market some
fne morning and find displayed on its counters
some new Kind of meat, some importation from
another planet, utterly different from the regu-
latiOn beef, mutton ana pork, something at
once palatable, easily prepared and within the
reach of ones purse. how gladly would II be
welcomed. But as there is small chance of
such a happening must content ourselves
with what is now and make the best OF it.
Lamb is still an article which commands re-
spect on account of its intrinsic value. the
sign, genuine spring lamb" being prominently
attached to a few small animals whose equiva-
lent, reckoned in the coin OF the realm at the
rate of 81 % for forequarters and 81 90 for
hindquarters, is quite out of proportion to their
avOlIdupois. And, besides, why genuine?
Have we in our ignorance been purchasing
and feasting upon imitation spring lamb and
not known It? Appal emily the only infallible
sign of genuineness to the uninitiated is The
price which the butcher puts on the real article.
The veal displayed is evidently no humbug.
On the hooks in the butchers stalls hang head
less bodies OF red and white and black and
black and white calves, and on the adjoining
counter ranged In neat rows, are the little feet
which have carried the bodies in devious ways
and ofttimes forbidden paths, and the heads
which directed the little feet, cleansed 10 a
state Of waXeE purity and wearing a haunting,
awful resemblance TO a human being.
Barring The feelings of remorse which are
inevitable on seeing the expression of those
reprOachful eyes, calls head is or can be made
a great success, and will furnish a wonderful
variety OF dishes for the family menage. There
is great difference In the way in which calrs
head is prepared; it must be carefully cleaned
but not skinned. lazy, wasleIul way which
some butchers employ. 1t is best to have the
head laid open in two pieces at the market; the
rest can better be done at home.
Take out the brains carefully and lay in cold
wafer 10 which the juice of a lime has been
added, and put away TILL needed; then take out
the tongue, parbOll It for half an hour and put
that away TO be braiZed-a most tempting dish
it Will be. Now fol the head itself; wipe every
part carefully and wash il we'll in salt ana
water, then lay it in large kettle and cover
with lightly sailed cold water, about five qua rts,
and put IL over the fire to simmer. In about
two hours, il the bones slip easily from the
meat remove The head carefully ana ada to the
liquor in the Kettle a bunch of soup vegetables.
with sweet herbs, few leaves of parsley, mar
joram. thyme and bay leaf and pepper; put
back The bones and let this COOK till reduced to
two quarts. This is the foundation for that
most delicious soup, mock turtle.
When reduced TO the right quantity strain
the liquor and set aside till next day. II de-
sired this can b. used as d clear soup, but il is
not so much esteemed.
Here are three dishes. brains, tongue and
mock-turtle soup, and the meat from the head
still untouched, this can be cut in pieces,
rolled in egg and crumbs and baked, baStiUg
frequently and served with lemon juice and
melted butter or made into brason, a recipe for
which Will be given later. or 1t can be served
Ell tortin by simmering the slices IN a sauce,
made by adding 10 one tablespoon melted
butter. an equal quantity Of -four, a cup Of
stock from The pot, little strained tomato,
few mushrooms and speck of cayenne This
sauce is rather thick and burns easily. so
should De kept away from the ardent heat. A
quite common garnisn with this dish is made
by poachlng eggs IN deep far they cook in a
very short tlme less than ai minute. but one
needs TO be possessed OF courage and patience
10 stand the inevitable suffering and scatter
ing OF rat which TAX place during this process
Nice. crisp. picked cueumbers must accom-
paDy this dish.