The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1894-07-02

COSTUME FOR ELDERLY LADY AND PAN
NIER GOWN.
Its graceful classic folds or it's stray
CHING, hathke, wing shaped drapery.
There viii be reticule carried over an
arm and q scarf such as Marie Antoi.
nette used to wear. There will next be
poke bonnet with its upright plumes
and struggling flowers, and the next per-
son VIII have huge incroyable revers.
Not seldom one finds nearly all of these
characteristics in one costume, as the
I'm de steele woman must have the best
OF everything, and it may be said, too,
that she has the happy faculty Of har-
monlzlng all the salient points into one
pleasing and becoming whole.
Ono OF the almost hopeless tasks set
by women to their dressmakers was to
make the ugly General Berthier Jacket
thing of grace and beauty. This Jack
ct has the fronts crossed and fastened
with small fiat brass buttons. The ma
ter1al is of either black or dark blue
broadcloth and has full skirt to the
basque The collar is laid SO high that
1t comes almost up to the ears. The rev
ers are OF rich white moire and are
Is a pIastron vest of the moire. The
sleeves flare at the wrists and there are
deep cuffs Of white moire set with Init
tons along the lower side. The whole
effect OF this coat is senimilitary, and
IL is exceedingly dressy, but it requires
q very flashing style and fine figure to.
carry it OF we'll This coat shS5Id he
worn over 2.fsssirt of ftS.e same material.
NJ <.nother new fancy drawn from the
dim past has u near approach to Dolly
Warden, and 1T is, as the French say, q
reussite, particularly well liked by the
slender, who not only look well in it,
but need something of the sort. The
skirt TO one Of these models is of cream
white crepon. accordion plated Over
this is pannier drapery coming high and
full over the hips. This is made of pink
challie, with red roses printed upon it.
The sleeves reach the elbows and there
end with n fall of white lace, the join
ing being hidden under twisted roll of
cherry red and pale blue ribbon. There
is an incroyable scarf of pink crepe de
chine, with embroidered ends, and down
the front are two pointed sash ends of
pink Grape, with three rows of the
twisted ribbon crossing them, making
very novel but yet not striking garni-
ture. The pannier puffs are drawn up in
the back, and from under the scallop
fall Two Grape scarf ends to the bottom
of the dress
a costume for an elderly lady was
also in some manner u reminder of the
pretty fashions of other times while vet
quite up TO date The dress was of ashes
elegant quality. The skirt was of the
medium funnel shape, and the waist
was laid in bias plaits from the shout
ders 10 short point in front The sleeves
Were plain gigots, not very large at the
top. Over this there was worn man
telet' of mirror gray armure, trimmed
with fiat row of fine Spanish lace
Around the Eeck was plating of cerise
twilled silk, and this was lined with |
ashes of roses The cerise silk reached
down the front to below the knees in |
tabs, ending in passementerie fringe |
The whole of the cerise portion was out |
lined ON the edge with a narrow black |
velvet ribbon The little gray chip bon |
net was trimmed with n cherry velvet |
bow and short gray tips The mantelet |
was round i'll the back and scarcely |
reached the waist line
These same little mantles, mantelets |
and mantillas are to be seen in num- |
beTs. The most of them are of black silk |
and lace of some kind, with perhaps a
bit of beading or row of spangles. |
Some of them are made like a long
shawl, that meaning that they do not
reach the neck, but droop around the
shoulders. This used in old days to be
considered a very graceful and highly
elegant manner of wearing the garment.
/ noticed one made of taffeta, cut in
half moon shape. The upper edge was
trimmed with a narrow frin of black
lace and a fine line of jet beading.
There was a graduated ruff1e of taffeta,
edged with lace, and there were long
rounding tabs in front, trimmed in /
similar manner. The tabs cross in front
and are held by Jet buckle in such
way as to draw the mantelet about half
way between the neck and the shoulder
seam.
This is not the only kind of late spring
mantles by any means. There was ono
very stylish garment which was called