The record-union., 1894-10-06
Beside the Winsone Kerry Shores.
Copyright, 1894, by Edgar L. Wakeman. All |
rights reserveG.l

Copyright, 1894, by Edgar L. Wakeman. All
rights reserveG.l
I.
Our VagabOnd Traveller was not a vag-
abond inreality, but only in that genial
amiability of tolerative spirit which had
led him with receptive eyes and kindly
heart among the lowly of many lands.
lie had never yet essayed the relation
ofexperience or reminiscence, and a rip
pie of pleasant anticipation broke over
our remaining travellers faces, when,
with a little half-apologetic "ahem!'' he
began the following recital of tender
hours among Irish hearts and scenes.
One has all sorts of good luck in get
ting at the real things OF life when tramp
ing in any country.
Lingering about Killarney. hesitant in
my purpose, looked l0ngingly toward
the surprisingly beautiful southwest
coast, but felt trihe cowardiy about ex-
ploration in that direction without know
ing single human soul beyond Killar-
ney.
In all that splendid coast-line were
scenes of indescribable beauty and gran
deur; there nestled the homes of nine
tenths of the fishermen of ireland, and
over in the almost unknown regions of
DunkerrOn South, Corkaguiny and Iver-
agh, were some OF the Quaintest people
OF Erin, among whom linger customs,
uSageS and ways almost as odd and in
terestiug as the Breton laws of Old.
In this mood OF INDIGESTION l left Killar-
ney on a morning long before its hosts of
DeggarS and guides were aStir, and, TAX
ing my way toward Dingle Bay on the
great highway to Valencia, loitered along
past the northern shores of Lower Kill
larney Lake, feasting upon the Witching
scenery half disclosed through the deli
cate morning mists.
Before the little GWeetsin River was
crossed, perhaps ten miles from hillar-
ney, the daily long car'' with it's load of
passengers and parcel-pOst hampers
dashed by, and shortly after, solitary
foot traveller OF dubious appearance at a
distance, came up from Killarney way as
If desirous OF Overtaking me.
- Glad OF any excuse Tor cOmpanionship L
halted. But no sooner was the man close
enough for inspection than l regretted
my delay. He carried a tremendous
cudgel in one hand, little package of
belongings in the other and walked with
q bent, weaving stride, unlike one ac-
customed to the pleasures Of the road
AS he neared me his face took on a
most tOrbidding aspect from the clumped
and shaggy hair that hid his features
completely, particularly as his eyes were
covered with a nondescript hat which
had all the swails and says, but none Of
the breezy picturesqueness, of huge
''SOu' weSter." Nor did the hair stop
with the face. His coat was flung over
his arm, and his shirt, of some heavy
wooden stuff like COnnamara flannel, was
open nearly to the waist, disclosing a
breast of huge proportions covered as
thickly as his face with hair maSsed and
matted in deep, grotesque swirls. AS the
fellow halted he stood veritable giant
beside me.
Fine mornin'," he exclaimed in a
voice like a hoarse clap of thunder.
Same to you aud many" l answered
civilly, but with some trepidation, for his
two great fists clutched his stick in a
most handy way, as one might grasp an
aggressive bludgeon or rest upon silent
oar.
He looked at me curiously for mo-
ment, and I now saw that a kindlier
pair of eyes never beamed from human
face.
Faith, Pm John L. shea,
Ay swate Port Mdgee;
An follow tishln'
Upon tn deep sayu'-
he resumed. with an air of confidential.
dDDTGnen-
sions quite at rest.
AN if yer afther goin' my way, an IL
answer me thruly av yer own blissed
self, I'll divide tn road wild yez fairly. as
1h' bailif gintly obsarved to th' mad
bull that wor interjucin' his horns to his
leather crackers (sheep-skin breeches)!"
/ answered him truly" as to myself
Then he told me with deliciously louua-
cious candOr how he had been sent for,
month before, by Father Elannery of
Carne, away up on the howling coast of
County Mayo, to come among the poor
fishermen of BlackSod Bay 10 rig up
boats and gear' that the wretched folk OF
that region, a class every whit as hope
less and helpless as the Arran Islanders,
might attempt deep sea fishing; had exc
cuted his little commission, and was now
proudly returning to the Kerry shores.
having walked every foot Of the distance
in order to preserve intact his trifiing sti-
pend for those he loved IN the little home
nest at Port Magee.
did not say so In spoken words, but
my heart said, Brave John L. Shea av
swate Port Magee, that foIys tishin'
upon th' say" you are Drawer, better
truer. than many that have title or sta
ton, If you have scales like fish all over
you ana hair like a beast all over that.
with no riches but your rich brogue and
cabin and thatch and those within ii.
between your kindly life and all manner
OF harm"
And our hands came together with a
loud, resounding whack, and our tramps'
feet rang merrily over the ancient Kerry
road that leads by glens and loughs over
Iveragh mountains TO the sea.
From our mountain road we at last saw
the sun sink into its flaming bed upon
the Atlantic horizon, but we yet lacked
two or three hours of completing our
Journey from Killarney to the sea. So
we LETT the nights above Dingle Bay, and
after beginning the lovely descent toward
Cahirsiveen through the glowing valley
OF the Knocknadober, my companion
shortly led the way over a rocky noun
tain boreen for nearly q mile from the
great stone road we had trayersed.
Turning the jutting point OF a huge
cliff, rising from a deep gorge around
which the tootpath trailed, we came 10 a
little cluster OF cabins in the sweetest and
tiniest Of Kerry glens, all overhanging,
but inaccessible at this point from the
HIGHWAY which wound like a ribbon OF
mink along the base of the nights some
hundreds of feet below.
Here was little eerie where were
nerehed an Irish ''shebeen," which, to
pne of an inquiring mind, might have
haen given Identification with a certain
secluded still farther up the glens; few
cabins where lived a score of souls who
s.nlind'' the herds of the graziers OF her-
- o1,oT