The Portland daily press., 1894-11-03
VOLCANIC FRANCE.
A Portland Mans Visit to a Land Of
Extinct Craters,


How the Puy De Dome Was Clinlbed-the
Roman Temple on Top-The French
Hunter.
Correspondence of the PRESS.)
Clarmont-Ferrand, Oct. 18th. Only to
those who follow its carriage roads and
5yways are the scenic glories of France
revealed. The traveller by rail is taken
along the open valleys and mountainous
sterile plateaus or, if through mountains,
by tunnels and cuts that obstruct the
view--and returns home with a bad, in
correct impression of what this country
contains in the matter of natural scenery
Far otherwise is it with him who climbs
her mountains, wanders through her
deep valleys, penetrates her grand and
picturesque gorges, following the wind
ings of the magnificent "Grand Routes"
or lesser chaussees that form such net
woark over the land.
The southern half of France abounds
IN ranges of low mountains OF volcanic
origin, producing such wilderness of
vallels, dales and gorges that one won
GERS how road or rails were made to COLI
meet one valley with another. Great en-
gineering skill has been required to con-
struct the various railway lines in this
part of the country and there yet re-
main many towns and villages which
rely upon the slow moving diligence for
communication with the outside world.
1t is here that the bicycle finds it's best
and most enjoyable field of labor. On
it's air shod tires one leaves the lumber
ing and uncomfortable omnibus far in
the rear and. enjoys beauties of hill and
dale, which, those who travel on the
rail can never know.
Three wheelmen, of which the writer
was one landed at the old town of St. Malo
on the coast of Brittany, early in
September, and by easy stages arrived in
ten days at the city of Clemont-Ferrand.
which lies under the rounded heights of
the mountains of Auvergne.
1t had been tour of discovery, for we
knew not the land and not too much Of
it's language. But if one can speak a
little and people are kind the way is
sure to be pleasant Each day we had
halted at town or village whose mai
row, crooked streets-not always too
sweet to sensitive nostrils-and old
houses gave scant promise of soft beds OF
savory food and yet each day were our
fears scattered to the winds as at some
quaint hostlery we were served to bounte-
GUS repasts that no chef need have been
ashamed to have owned as product of
his skill, and at night were given beds
SO comfortable that the parting from
them in the morning was a daily sor-
row.
But we have arrived at Clermont-
Ferrand. Surely we must climb the
Puy de Dome. It is the thing to do,
and we do it. 1t was beautiful morn
ing when we made our way up the val
ley through the watering place of
Royat, gay with it's great hotels, and
by slow w;ndings of the road, which at
each turn presented charming views of
orchard and meadow, at last came upon
the open plain over which the road leads
to the base of the mountain.
In climbing of mountains I hold that
the longest and most gradual way is
the best. But Marriott believes in short
cuts. He SCOTS at the easy-going car
riage road and its zig-zag approach to
the summit. Is not the top right before
us? Does not the quite book say there
are good sheep paths which we can fol
low, and, by SO doing save many precious
moments?
We have nothing but laziness to oppose
to such arguments, and the sheep paths.
gain the day. 1t is not hard at first, /
and with an occasinaI halt to survey the
beautiful panorama unfolding below us
we make our way upward. But this state
of things does not continue for long. The
grade becomes steep, very steep, the
sheep paths disappear, and the labor of
finding them and catching our breath,
which also shows an inclination to dis
appear, soon becomes our chief occupa-
ton. Deep down in our hearts Lennock
and I breathed maledictions upon the
guide book, and our companion who had
DETECTED our steps form the beaten road,
and when we had sufficient breath we
gave our thoughts full vent. To shield
his crime Marriott pretended it was all
right, that the grade was nothing to
what he had encountered in the Alps,
and with his feet turned at right angles
from his body rambled ahead, now
and then turning back to encourage US
by tales of good paths and easy grades.
but which we found, like will-to-
whisp, were ever before us. We were in
for it, the top must be reached, and so,
Scrambling upon our hands and knees,
Wrapping our ears around the trees,
Digging our toes into the ground,
And EN- bracing the rocks that lay around
we slowly crawled up until the gaol
was gained.
After recovering our breath we discuss
ed lunch at the little restaurant, and
then strolled about the summit in search
of the reward for our mornings work.
1t was there in ample measure
The Puy de DOME is the highest (49O5