The morning call., 1894-10-27
FOR THE TABLE.

win the opening of the game season the mar
kets nave taken on the old holiday look, and If
we lai now in catering for the Sunday dinner
we must look for the fault within ourselves.
II we pass the well-filled fishstalls and ignore |
lof the time the attractions of the frutstands |
ana the snares which the butchers have set for |
Us IN the shape of unusually fine roasts of beef. |
mutton and veal, we still have the poulterers' |
stock TO make our choice from.
This Is the time of temptation to those whose |
income requires them TO keep within narrow
limit. Roast turkey or creamed chicken make
pleasant change from the small roast OF beef
or leg OF lamb, but turkeys are 20 cents a
pound and small one possessing in addition
TO its other attractions the merit OF variety
would soon be reduced to the condition of a
scraped skeleton by the appreclative family,
and there would be nothing in the larder for
Mondays dinner. Aud then there are some
among those to whom turkey is luxury who
hold the unspoken creed that the noble BIRD in
all his glory of crisply Drowned skim rich stuff
fing and gravy should dawn upon the table for
the hrst time In the season on Thanksgiving
day. and so insure at least one cause for G, att
tude
For those OF ample means there are quail,
which are still high in price, ducks and Mon
tana grouse, a sort OF exaggerated quail large
enough to satisfy three or four moderate ap-
pettes, which is offered at 75 cents apiece.
the beauty OF their silvery plumage, or denuded
of feathers are almost equally conspicuous by
theli plump. delicate-skinned wbteDess They
are delicious potted; filled with plain stufing.
rolled In blankets OF thin salt pork and fried in
tightly covered pot. The pot must be con-
stantly shaken and the birds turned till they
are well Drowned then put in with them slice
OF onion and sprinkle in a spoonful OF -four
Stir till brown add pint Of stock and SET back
on the stove to simmer, still closely covered,
Till tender. The gravy is then 10 be strained
and served with the bird In a separate dish.
When quail are to be had at a reasonable
price, about 81 so a dozen, even those with
limited purses may indulge in dinner OF them
occasionally. AS has been said before, these
birds should be plucked not skinned and
wiped inside and out very care fnly, as they
may be n little bitter from broken gall blad-
der; they should pc pumped into shape with a
rich bread and Dutter stuffing. wrapped IN
piece of fat salt pork and baked for twenty TO
thirty minutes In a brisk oven, oasting fre-
Quenlly with butter and serving with a gravy
made by thlckenng part OF the fat left in the
pan with little brown -four reducing TO the
proper consistency with 4 little weak soup
stock and addinga few mushrooms which have
been cooked for ten minutes II butter. Even
now, when fresh mushrooms are from 10 cents
10 81 pound. 10 cents worth will be enough
for half & dozen quails. and so are cheaper than
the canned vegetable and twice as effective, as
they always have the regular truftie flavor so
much stronger.
With the quail serve sOme sweet potatoes
boiled aud Drowned some lima beans or some
peas, the latter being S cents pound now but
are surprisingly good.
On The principle of the prudent housewife
who serves soup before the roast TO remove the
Keen edge OF The family appetite, and with an
eye TO to-morrow's dinner, /: would be good
ihing-if suspicion fingers in tile mind as to
the satisfying qualities of a quail apie ce-to
provide an entree for the quail dinner, some
thing spicy like crab croquettes with tomato o
sauce. One crab, which will usually cost 10
cents, will make eight or ten good sized GRO
quettes, by mixing ihe finely shredded meat,
with the fat and liquor of the crab, with an
equal quantity of highly seasoned White sauce,
which when cold should be made into pear or
barrel shaped pieces with the hands, then
rolled in beaten egg, hen in fGe crumbs, and
fried in deep, boiling fat till delicate brown.
Serve with these croquettes rich tomato
sauce and some crisp lettuce. dressed just as
1t is sent to table with French dressing and a
spTinkling of finely chopped chves.
IL is a good idea to have little bunch Of
these tiny onions growing in ones garden to be
used in an emergency when the market is not
easily available.
In arranging for this dinner, it is necessary to
know the exact state OF the market. for it some
times happens that not a crab graces with its
presence the counter of the fshmonger, ana
they cannot be had at any price, nor a quail
for less than % cents which means that we,
with as good a grace as possible. literally
revenon nos moutous, and may perhaps find
comfort in the thought that we at least have
been spared a great deal of trou Bile.