The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-05-13
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
The Wonderful PTG-eminGnCe Of Jet
in Dress Trimming.
Spangle Trimming for the Bonnet.
The Graduation Gown-Simplicity
in All Things for the Girl Graduate.

4he Graduation Gown-Simplicity
in All Things for the Girl Graduate.
Copyright
New York, May 12.-At the beginning
of this year of gracei was noised abroad
rather more loudly than ,before, that wom-
an was losing her charms. Her fire.
quent appearance on the public platform,
her pleas for long delayed rights" her
entrance into fields that masculines had
once exclusively claimed, her general de-
sire, on all occasions, to be recognized on
equal footing with the mighty male intel
Iecu' were conclusive proof to the timid
stay-at-homes, and the chronic directors,
that femininity was slowly dying
20 the women called q meeting and the
great gathering sat solemnly all day and
all night, to consider whether this thing
were So and, if SO it proved, what would
De the means most effective to strengthen
the weakening letters by which the strong
man was held. The sun peeped brightly
III at them, and cried: "Shine, even asI ,
ana dazzle them with your brightness. -
Inc glow worm sped past at eventide,
murmuring, Learn a lesson from my
wondrous, alluring glow" Then a few
ralndrops fell softly over their heads and
whispered, "A pretty tinkle of ornament
VIII catch their dulling ear" But the
and said, with great dIsdain of them all.
Prom blackness bring forth light, and
you will do well.
SO forthwith they brought forth Jet. 1t
ana It's work well The jetted woman
still Yields the scepter and the hatedI ru-
mors have ceased.
How does the jet appear? Sometimes
IN tiny bands that look so harmless YOU
would never dream they have emptied
more than one pOcketbooA; in combina-
ton with such finely meshed lace that
you wonder how the lace bears up under
the heavy pendants in designs woven
about heavy cream lace-point de Venise
rich and beautiful. The narrow edg-
lngS are effective for skirt trimmings, for
bodice bands, for sleeves. They run in
between pu4iqgs Of satin or MORE The
fine laces, embroidered in Jet, are most
effective under the satin bands il bright
color, trimming black gowns.
The deep points are very effective.
especially when each point is edged, as it
often IS, with a line lace lust touched
with jet, How these bands 90 cost. You
can get rather nice edge, quite narrow,
for % cents on bargain day, This, mind
you, is cheap. When it comes to the
rich edglngs they mount away up into the
dollars per yard. Then there are the let
bodices and vest pieces. A pretty bodice
made in delicate fashion to Slip over a
slIken one costs thirty or forty dollars
1t is sleeveless and collarless. From the
yoke to the belt run thin lines of the let.
set closely together. The yoke is heavier
and solid. The COllarettcs with waist
pieces to match, are very pretty. saw a
set marked $50, combined with rich point
de Venise. About the lace points are the
Jet designs, falling in other points below
The collar was quite deep, falling over
the shoulder almost far enough to deserve
the name of cape. The piece that en-
circled the waist was almost entirely of
the cream Lace, with a pattern outlined
in jet.
But jet sparkles even more frequently
from the dainty bonnet. JET crowns, ietted
wings and quilts, jetted aigrettes, ietted
lace rut1ies, and big Jet pins are to be
found in endless variety.
| saw young creature to-day with not
bit OF color in her costume, anywhere
Yet she fairly scintillated as she stood in
animated conversation on a shopping thor
Oughfare. Small rows of Jet ran up the
seams of her black skirt A ietted orna-
ment encircled her waist. A yoke of jet
was set in the bodice, from which fell
long, heavy fringes Her cape was the
prettiest part of that too brilliant cos
tune. Very short it was, with the net
that formed the lower part reaching
scarcely to the elbow. The double rufhe
had row of heavy spangles edging it, in
small points, and fern design in the
spangleS running through. Then q
double black ruche in mOire encircled the
neck, each edge of which had a row of
the spangles. Her hat was tiny, just
small Jet crown with efew aigrettes
touched with the bright stuff, standing
up in front, and little putting of gilt
tering lace
We'thought that jet was costly and
perishable enough, but the spangled trim
ming that is worn almost as much, is
more costly and perishable still. When
the tiny spangled edge that finishes your
straw costs you 81, and proceeds to fall to
pieces in afew days, or weeks at the
most, you feel that the days of woman's
rights is still in the hazy distance; you
don't want that edge a bit, but If the
woman that sits next you in church has
it, would you dare wear a hat that was
innocent of black spangles? AS clerk
at the millinery department contided
rather unwIsely to me, you wouldn't
believe how badly that stuff wears. The
very first warm day you watch how it
will curl up and fall away. 1t isn't
jet at all, as it looks; it's only cell
luloid" But at that time had already
purchased my dollars worth, and her adj
vice came too late But the spangled
edge does look awfully pretty on clear
yellow leghorn, doesn't it2
Let's talk about something sensible.
graduation day will be along soon, and the
girls are already picturing themselves
and each other in the freshest
of sheer white gowns, with
lovely June roses in great pro-
fusion all about, with bright
class ColOrs and brighter
faces of the friends that have come to do
them honor.
The fairest graduate will be the simp-
lest graduate. No rich laces, no satins
nor silks, no Colors-but fine sheer, spot
less, almost unadorned will be the gown of
the maiden that is destined to outshine
them all. The material may be null,
not silk null, exquisite India mus
lin, fine dotted muslin, soft
nainsook. Very fine embroidery or Va
lenciennes lace may be effectively intro
duced in insertions and skirt ruffles, in
bands between the puthngs of the bodice
course, may be used ad libitum, in MORE
or in satin, preferably the former The
belt is of ribbon, the stock collar of gath
cred MORE, bows are on the shoulders,
the bust, the belt and the sleeves.
Shoulder straps may be finished with the
chou, if the bodice is gathered on a
yoke, or straps may be run from the
waist
The gown that is sketched depends for
its trimming solely uBon the moire rib
bons The skirt and waist are both gath
cred simply. The ribbon makes collar