The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-10-26

portraits. from pictures by Rembrandt
 or old Holland bufghers. from the splendid hats of those burghers of
 Flanders whose luxury in the fifteenth century outriyalled that of royalty.
 Even the famous hat of that mixture
 Of mad superstition and wickedness.
 Louis xI.. is finally parodied by fash
 ion. The little images of saints chosen
 In lead by the king. who was forever
 trying to make his peace with heaven
 at the lowest cash price. are replaced
 In the fashionable hat by band of conventional medaliions on gold. The Louis xI.. hat Is wide rolling brimmed affair in black felt trimmed with six sombre black piumes nodding over the
 brim, which rolls slightly at the sides.
 but. except for the band of gold medal lions around the crown, Is simple.
 Some of the new hats are trimmed with toned" rosettes. shaded from a pale China pink through six colors Into a deep Bordeaux red. Nearly all the new hats have q slight face trimming lifting the brim from the hair. This is a twist of velvet or satin with few rosettes or a plume of rosea Pompons Of coque plumes are also used on some of the new hats. There are wings shaded from pale vandyke brown or tan into white, which make effective trimmings for some hats of brown vel vet. The new velvet is generally ml- roir, that is, 1t has a distinct glace or satiny sheen on the nap. A charming hat in Vandyke brown and pink has Q soft crown of brown miroir velvet trimmed with twist of pink satin caught by a large buckle of steel in front, and finished with plumes and a face trimming of pink satin rosettes. The new steel buckles are marvels of art. and though of no precious metal often cost five dollars each.
 Chrysanthemum collarettes are one of the hautes nouveautes of the season. They are folded collars of crepe. in pink, blue. cream or black, with dou- ble rosettes on the sides, and one at the back, the arrangement of lace or chif- fon varying. to suit the requirements of the dress. Made in velvet, with a belt to match, they are often very effective, and give a pretty finish to any bodice.
 Vandyke edging is the last thing in lace trimmings, and consists of points from six to eight inches In depth, held together by a narrow heading.
 A child's coat of tan-colored cloth has a green velvet cape trimmed around with this edging. This is to be worn with a large green felt hat, trimmed with the same lace on the under side, the points touching the brim, and an arrangement of green velvet and tan colored feathers ornamenting the crown. This edging comes both in black and white guipure and point de Venice, and will undoubtedly be the favorite lace trimming this winter.
 A pretty frock for g. girl of fourteen is called Ia papillon" and has straight black velvet wings gathered with a scalloped heading on to the shoulders, wide at the top and narrowing down as they approach the armpits, and edged with wide scallops so that they had quite the effect of the wings of but terfy. This semblance is heightened by large disk pins which confine the gathers at each end and which look wings. This trimming, with collar to match, is worn over a surplice body of dark yellow surah, which matches a cloth skirt of the same shade. The hat is a large butterfly bow of black velvet with curled feelers in the center. The costume, however, is not really as fan tastic as 1t might seem, and would not be considered at ali conspicuous, the butterfly idea being quite in accord with the present fashions. s A charming frock for a younger child is made of white wool crepon in graduated box-pleats very tiny at the top and very wide at the bottom, each pleat being finished At the top with a velvet rosette of baby blue velvet. The pleats, which meet those of the skirt front and back, the side pieces being put in plain. A blue velvet collar with two rosettes on either side finishes the neck. ,-...s-
 Real butterflies fastened on to long spiral springs with a pin at the other end are among the latest novelties to stick on a bonnet or as an ornament for the head. As these brilliant crea- lures are ephemeral and would other wse die and be destroyed by the wealth CT, a comfortable death by chloroform and an honored position on pretty bonnet would seem to be 8 rather ap- propriate and pleasant ending for butterfly than otherwise. +
 It is very noticeable that the women of the smart set' gown themselves for walking, bicycling and all outdoor pur- suits very plainly, and, above all, affect no eccentricities. The very queer-look- Ing garments, therefore, which are shown in the fashion books for bicy- cling, golf and the like are creations of the imagination, as far as this side of the Atlantic is concerned, and must be taken with many grains of salt. The ravorite bicycling frock of fashionable American women has resolved itself finally into gored skirt that has an extra triangular gore inserted at the two front side seams. the point of which comes to the knee, giving the ne- ,essary fulness when in position on the wheel, and an equally graceful effect when walking. With this Is worn very trim-looking Norfolk jacket, belt d with either patent-leather or rus belt. A sailor or a Tam ,r an Alpine hat may be the headgear with this costume.
 Long, velvet, stight-fitting coats will De much worn for dress occasions this