The Olneyville times. (Olneyville [Providence, R.I.]) 1887-1917, 1894-06-01
AN ARTICHOKE IDYL.
AN UNFAMILIAR VEGETABLE OVER
WHICH EPiCURES RAVE.

The "JerusaIem" Kind Is Not the True Ar
ticle and Is Used to Fatten Cattle-Mouth
Watering Recipes Used by French and
Creole Chefs.
Just Sc years after Columbus discov-
cred America a gastronomic genius in
the south of France discovered the arti-
choke as a delicious dish of saladic
character 1t was indeed a rather re-
markable find or guess, for the plant
bears strong resemblance to the this
tie, and up to that date any man who
hte it ran the risk of being classed with
that animal which enjoys thistles and
knows how to bray.
The portion of the artichoke generally
eaten is the underside Of the head be-
fore the flower unfolds itself, or what in
kitchen parlance is called the artichoke
bottom. But the lower part of the leaves
that join this base and contain about a
fifth of a teaspoonful of edible and cas-
lily digestible substance is equally priced
by the wise. A common way of eating
these bottoms after the head is removed
from the plant and the body has been
we'll boiled, like cabbage, is to pull
off the leaves and then eat the remain
der soused Ill salt and butter.
But the French and the creoles of
New Orleans, where the artichoke is
regarded with kind Of sentimental or
affectionate appetite, frequently gather
the heads when the bottom is no larger
than a silver dollar and eat the lower
end of the leaves raw, dipping them
daintily in sauce made of oil, red pep
per and red wine vinegar or occasional
ly III queer sauce of butter and spice.
Another way the French and their
kindred here have of embalming the
nrtichoke in the memory of particular
stomachs is to bake the dried heads, for
which purpose the second crop or rowen
of artichokes is preferred, in a meat pie
with mushrooms. This dish has not yet
made its appearance in New York res
taurants.
Neither has the artichoke patty, an
invention of the famous Partisan chef,
Trisconi, now living in rich retirement
on his estate near New Orleans, and
cooking only occasionally ON state occa-
sions or for gourmets whose praise de-
lights his poet nature. AT dinner given
in 1884 by the New Orleans exposition
management to some editorial visitors,
Trisconi presented some of these famous
patties, and one editor, whose name is
a household word, remarked that such
a dish could teach man the art to choke
himself to death without grieving, to
which another replied that the art to
joke in that way was an editorial func-
tiOn more honored in the breach than in
the observance, and in an awesome hush
the guests went on solacing their souls
with patties.
The composition of these culinary
wonders is profound secret, which will
probably die with its Columbus, but
there are many other ways-about 20 in
all-of cooking the artichoke, and some
of these methods carry elaboration to
excess Let brief description of one
way suffice.
You take about six or eight plants Of
medium size, remove the coarsest leaves,
trim them off straight on top, cut out
the cores or chokes, wash and drain care
fully. Then fry the tips in oil. and for
dressing chop up very fine half pound
of fresh pork fat, with the same amount
of butter. Add minced shallots, large
spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pep
per, nutmeg, pound of minced mush
rooms and gill of madeira. After thor
ough mixing divide into as many por
tions as you have artichoke shells and
fill the hollow plants.
Cover these with bands of thick pork
and tie around with strong string. Put
these imprisoned artichokes now into q
large saucepan, with more pork, chopped
carrots, onions, parsley, etc. Moisten
with medium stock and white wine and
let boil.
Then skin and cook in an oven for an
hour. Drain off the stock and reduce it
with espasnole to semiglazed state,
sprinkling IN just suspicion of lemon
juice now and then. Free the articokes
from their cord and bands and serve
them, thinly covered, not drowned, In
their accompanying sauce. The name of
the dish is artichants entiere Ia bari
goule and is equal TO dinner of several
courses.
BY scme persons this dainty vegetable
has been confused with the so called
Jerusalem artichoke, which is also eat
en-, though chiefly by cattle. The Jeru-