davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

sleeves are velvet, the bodice a blouse
slightly oouffant in front, with two YER
teal bands of paSsementerie set in as
insertions over velvet laid on the lining
underneath and forming a transpar-
ency. The skirt has passementerie over
velvet laid down each side the front,
each side the back breadth and round
the foot at little distance from the
edge. The velvet is laid on the skirt to
avoid cutting. A passementerie orna-
ment fills each corner of the trimming
at the bottom, and the neck band and
the belt are of velvet.
These are rich materials; the same eff
feet viii be produced in wool crepon
with velvet ribbons in place of the pas
sementerie and bows shaped triangular
~ in the angles of the skirt.
To some gowns width is added in the
shape of ruffies, rains of passemen-
terie or jabots that fall from the top of
the shoulder down, following the under
arm seam to the belt and framing the
waist on each side. An afternoon house
reception gown showing this idea is of
green-blue silk, with velvet of the same
color and irridescent ornaments. The
skirt, bodice front and sleeves are of
the silk spangled over with irridescent
SeQuinS embroidered on by hand The
bodice and open side fronts are of veil
vet, the whole forming a blouse front
open over the silk. a velvet bow on
each shoulder rests out upon the sleeve
and from it falls rain of irridescent
beads to the belt. On the left side of
the skirt is an insert of black net sewn
with irridescent beads laid over velvet.
that is very wide at top, covering the
hip, and narrows down to a point near
the foot. Pts edge is cut in an irregular
pattern and appliqued down with a
cord.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
FOR THE ULTRA FASHIONABLE.

FOR THE ULTRA FASHIONABLE.
Extremes of fashions are concocted sim
ply for foreign rnarkets-to catch the gull
lible American dollar principally-and
same thing, they have the good sense not
to oyerdo it.
The cloth skirt that fits lightly down the
boulevard or trips in peace up the Rue de
yards at the bottom. If made of silk 1t
NAV cover a circle of five yards and a
half, and it is hair clothed instead of Grim
oIined to make it lighter still, and there
When made in this way. cloth SKIRT
of medium length viii require four yards
of 4-inch material, and from ten 10
twelve yards of silk lining:
| OF course there will be huge pieces of
both left over in the cutting, much Of
which must be done on the bias, but
these can always be utilized in helping
out the bodice.
Besides tie paquin model, there are
Worth skirts. Felix skirts and Doucet
was finished at the bottom in huge scol-
lops, that lay against black and white
check velvet and were outlined with
brown silk and edged with mink tails.
A Felix symphony in brown and black
silk. half its full back curiously puffed
into a little tournure and flattened at
the sides in bows and steel buttons
And last and most bewitching of all,
was a Doucet evening skirt of opal gray
MORE with green and pink reflections and
with a foot trimming of Russian sable.
headed by a long scarf of white lace.
looped up in garlands.
Each CONNECTION is marked by some lit
tie trick of cut or trimming distinctive
of its makes.
! But the Paquin, the idol of the hour,
and religiously plain.
NINA FITCH
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
QUEEN vIcroRIA's DOGS.
TFrom ST. Nicholas.l

lfTOIll- 81 NlC1lOldS.l
Some of the finest dogs in the world
are owned by Victoria. Queen of Eng
land. Her majesty is particularly fond
{ of animals. and she loves every species
of dog, from the largest st. Bernard to
the tiny King Charles spaniel, which
can be put into a coat pocket There
lis a man at Windsor Castle who does
nothing else but take care of the dogs.
Land the royal kennels there are of
stone and the yards are paved with
red and blue tiles, and the compart-
ments in which the little dogs sleep
are warmed with hot water, and they
have the freshest and cleaneSt of straw
in which to lie.
There are fffty-five dogs in these ken
nels, and almost all of them are ac-
Iquainted with the queen. She visits
them often while she is at the castle,
and she looks carefully after their
health and comfort. The dogs of Wind
sor Castle keep regular hours They
are turned out at a certain time each
day for their exercise and sports, and
they have a number of courts con-
nected with the kennels upon which
they scamper to and fro over green
lawns. There are umbrella-like affairs
on these lawns, where they can lie in
the shade if they wish to. and in some
Of them there are pools of water where
the dogs can take q bath, and in which
they swim and come out and shake
themselves just as though they were
ordinary yellow dogs rather than royal
plrDDieS
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
TREATMEN FOR coLIcY BABIES.

! Humorous illusions to cooley babies
are never fully appreciated until the
lcondition is observed in each individu-
ais own offspring, and then, somehow
| the humorous side is gone, for of all
rest disturbing ailments, collie takes the
lead.
Overlooking is prolific cause, and
very often by reducing the food supply
| the ailment disappears of itsef. But
some qualities of milk will produce col
! ic so that it is as we'll to have a cure
ready. 1t nearly always comes at night
| but cannot be timed invariab bly,, for il
the mother or nurse count on couple
| of hours rest through the day. it is just
as likely to arrive then. Total depravi-
/ ~ can be applied to collie as we'll as
other things.
| The symptoms are sudden loud cries
axd contractiops of the legs. some at
! lacks are very severe, While others are
mild. Catnip tea and paregoric, the
remedies of our grandmothers, are OF
! little use, for they only soothe, without
expeliing the wind which causes the dis
turbance. Drops and cordials are use
less for the same reasons. Peppermint
was about the only thing then used
which removed the cause, and that was
made to Supply by adding laudanum.
The remedy now in vogue with uni
tormly good results Is soda mint. The
tablets are sold extensively for indiges-
ton, but liquid form is the best for
babies. Get ten per cent solution, and
for a child up to a month old take one
half spoonful Of mint to three of warm
water, slightly sweetened. Increase the
dose with age.
The effect of this simple remedy in
most cases is almost magical. The
wind is thrown off in an incredibly
short time, and the after effect is tc
soothe the nerves, so that sleep comes
swiftly in its train. There is NOTHING
deleterious in it's composition, for the
sole ingredients are bicarbonate soda
ammonia and pip. menthol. Enough
water must be added to kill the taste
of the soda, which is very disagreeable
Hot applications to the stomach are
of first Importance in this complaint
Flannel bands heated at the fire OF
wrung out of hot water, hot salt wrap
ped in flannel, or a hot water bot
tie next the skin all help a speedy cure
But no medicine is lasting With at
tention to the diet the number and du-
ration of the attacks may become short
er, but it will very likely be three
months before they will subside.
KENNETH WOOD.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

whom she wants TO make an impress
sion she pulls out her sleeve tops and
pats her hair z little farther down over
her ears, just as a man when about to
encounter a good-looking woman begins
t. curl his Jnustache. The same mus
tache always remains to twirl, but fash
ion flies with its collapses and disten-
SONS from one part of feminine dress to
another, and the preoccupauon of the
Wearer follows. 1t is a sure sign to
point out the mode.
The models themselves bear out the
observation. Width is the idea, width
everywhere except at waist and wrists,
which by contrast look very delicate,
and all fictitious height banished from
hat and hair, which rise scarcely higher
than the top of the head. It is thus
by grating and pruning that pro-
nounced style is arrived at. This pro-
nounced style of today is decidedly nov
el and is charming. of course. Each new
expression of dress art pushes interest
in the last one to limbo, for mankind is
a curious animal and must be amused
when he sees himself as he might be
and not as he is.
LATEST FASHION FOR THE HAIR.
Lentherie has explained TO me the ar
arrangement Of a couture for the day and
one for the evening, according to the
mode that viii, rule for this winter as
follows:
The head. it must be observed, has
grown small in effect between the
enormous sleeves and the width Of the
skirt, and for this reason there is a
space of longitude on each side. and
fashion has taken possession if it for
the hair. The hair is waved all round
its borders, particularly round the back
and sides, and is rolled off the forehead,
rolled dropping over the ears and rolled
up from the back Of the neck, all very
foose-goufle, as the coiffeur says, which
means swollen, and all drawn together
low at the back. on a level with the top
of the ears. and the ends there twisted
into a cord that is knotted with a loop
drawn through. such as we have all
learned to make. The knot is very sma,r
and counts for little in the effect; fash
ion asks only the billowy roll round the
face and neck and cares not how it
spends itself This is the couture for
the day time. that for the evening is
somewhat higher.
The hair is rolled up near the crown
of the head and there twisted into a
coque; then the ends are dividen into
two strands, each twisted separately
and the two twisted together to form a
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

mute, inglorious Millions" with which
the world is generally supposed to be
well supplied
The mariners compass is a charming
figure somewhat similar to me ever
popular May pole. To a high PIE is
attached the IDEAL IF a large compass
made of painted eIr1ooard to watch are
tied eight Or Jhi%ly- two l0ng varieg17sd
ribbons, on each Of which is inscrDed
one of the 9oin,s OF the compass. TEis
card is soon SURROUNDED ny cavaliers
wearing as a badge Il miniature COM
pass held with a coiorad rosette; be-
hind this ring 4 second one is formed
by the young women, wlIa each catch
hold of a ribbon, at the end Of which is
attached some pretty tritle as a gift.
Iney then turn around, but III an OPP
0osite direction from the men, until
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
phiianthropic American antedated

philanthropic American antedated
them.
She is a southern woman, brought up
to know the cunning art Of her neigh
bors and compa Mons with the needle.
When Miss Taylor came to New
York TO live, she was on intimate
terms of friendship with many wealthy
women, month after month paying
small fortunes for imported articles
that require fine needlework, such as
costly trousseaux, baby's layettes,
satiny napery, even fine bed linen. The
output of money was enormous in all
instances. Miss Taylor saw that here
was a demand that the south could
supply and she made herself the con-
Meeting link.
Whenever fine sewing was needed
the order was put into Miss Taylors
hands; she wrote to her southern
friends, selected and sent the mater
ials, and the garments were forthcon-
ing at half the expense of an imported
outfit.
To the southern woman living cheap
ly in her own home, probably out in
the country, the work was easy-for
these women of the old south use the
points of fine cambria needles" with
the proficiency of French nuns-and
comfortable incomes were derived
therefrom.
Miss Taylor used discretion and sent
only to the best seamstresses and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
previous arrangement beyond provid-

previous arrangement beyond provid-
ing small hand bell.
A chair is placed in the middle of the
room, on which some cavalier takes his
seat, bell in hand. This he rings at
intervals, till some lady comes up to
invite him to dance. One youth, whose
patience was tried by being left to toll
the bell too long a time finally settled
the matter by Selling the bell with both
hands and changing away with such
force that in self-defense half
a dozen young women rushed up to
urge their hands upon him. Another
man, whose years permitted this pleas
antry, had hardly sounded the bell be-
fore a bevy of girls, at a sign from the
leader crowded around, presenting an
embarrassing wealth of choice. A flute
or whistle may be substituted for the
bell.
The fencing figure is quite novel; it
was introduced at a ball given by the
Marchioness of Dufferin, but has never
been attempted at any cotilion given in
! this country. 1t, however, can only be
successfully carried out by those who
understand fencing, an accomplishment
not so rare in these athletic days.
little powder puff, literally sprink-
led, is fixed to the end of the foil. This
leaves its snowy mark on the oppon-
ent's coat each time the successful man
pricks him, and when vital part is
touched, the weapons are dropped and
the victor waltzes away with his prize.
Half a dozen couples may try this at a
time, if the foils are plentiful.
In the pyramid figure ten ladies stand
in the center of the room, four in the
first line, three in the next, then two,
then one. There should be a space of
two feet between them. In and out of
this twines a line of a dozen men
hand in hand When the leader claps
his hands each seizes the lady of his
choice and dances with her.
A PAPER DANCE.
The door figure is one which requires
some previous arrangement, although
not an elaborate amount. Light door
ways made of laths of wood nailed to-
gether in shape like the framework of
{ a door. are covered with tissue paper,
each door having different color in
order to make the scene as gay as pos
sible These are placed at intervals
down the middle of the room and held
in position by two of the company. The
dancers then waltz down the room,
rushing through each of the delicate OBJ
stacles in turn.
The most effective or striking figure
should always be reserved for the con-
Guiding one. The SNOWFALL figure is
very suitable for this purpose, indeed,
for obvious reasons, it must come at
the end of the evening.
A number of balls filled witch frag-
ments of white paper and covered with
tissue paper are thrown al given sig
nal into the air and fall in a shower of
snow, through which at the magic
word "cotihon," all dance.
UNDER THE HAMMER.
| For the auction figure six rosettes
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

ling forward, and. of course, the price
stiffened.
The Chinese, who in former years
used to supply nearly all the ermine
sent to London, were asked why they
did not now send on skins. Their re-
ply was that they had long ago given
up catching them, because they were
unstable when sent to market. But
they set to work anew, and at the
spring sales this year 10000 skins were
received and sold at double as much
as they would have brought year ago,
land probably considerably less than
they will bring year hence, if fashion
keeps this skin in favor over the Win
for
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

since it makes length of minor import
ance. The effect of thickness may be
increased by parting the hair off round
the edges and roughing it up from be-
hind with comb. 1t is made to stay
out very goufie with shell side combs,
three or four being used when neces-
sary. For combs and large hairpins
shell is the preferred material. There
is no longer any talk of bangs, the flow
of hair over the ears seeming to take
their place in softening the contour of
the face, but if the face will not sup
port clear forehead some light frizzes
may fall at each side, but leaving the
space open in the middle.
SLEEVE SUBTLETIES.
If it is not modest to show the ears
any more, there is 20 longer a good
figure without double width across the
shoulder. Shorn of proper sleeve
one is a mere picked chicken, thin and
hateful to the eyes, and a proper sleeve,
1T is that which in side view blots the
waist completely out and has obliged
the fashion artists TO give up drawing
the profile. The sleeve is the key of
the gown and the test of the dress
maker.
1t has an air of simplicity in the best
specimens, but defy yourself of this
simplicity. 1t is a deception. 1t is not
cut up into intricate parts; it is only
gigot, but it is gigot shaped with in
finite refinement of line. 1t is an Etrus-
can vase beside a flower modelled
pot; one could say of it, 30 attic SHAPED.
fair attituder' and not stretch verify.
1t issues horizontally from the armhole
in gauges or plaitS, according to the
quality of the material, and at a suf-
ficient distance out it curves over and
takes its subtle course converging down.
wards like an inverted vase to a wrist
of the most delicate possible, even run
ming out to a point on the hand. No
inch of its surface but is studied form
Sometimes it is broken into two parts
at the elbow, though that Is another
sleeve and another matter, but the gen
eral effect of outline remains the same
Into such perishable form do we now
adays put our fair attitudes, They have
even to be shaken up before company
arrives. like old Mrs. What's-Her-Nam
in Dickens.
To trim this marvellous creation Is to
manifestly gid the lily, and the most
perfect specimens are unadorned. With
fair logic on the other hand it is being
made Of material different from the
bodice, throwing at out into greater re-
lief. Here must be observed an i'm
portant point in design. It doesn't do
not to make the sleeve material enter
into the bodice in some slight form, as
otherwise a cutoff look is the result,
but relation must be established that
deceives the eye into believing that
these velvet sleeves have issued per-
haps from some velvet undergarment or
other. To give this effect, the bodice
must be slashed over velvet, or appliqu-
ed upon velvet, or in some other way
pretend to be laid upon the sleeve ma
terial. The idea is simple enough and
quite true to art 1t is the idea inspir-
ing some of the new models. of which
follows an illustration.
DESCRIPTION OF NEW GOWNS.
The materials are dark reddish qnauve
silk barred with pale mauve, velvet of
the same color and a very open passe-
menterie made of cord and chenille. The
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

suddenly, at a word from the leader.
the double circle is broken, when the
players divide in couples, everyone
showing a different shade; then follows
the waltz.
A word about favors. Sachet bags,
bonbonnieres, powder puffs, fans, whips.
tobacco pouches in fancy shades, rib
bons strung with silver bells, these are
dainty trifles, procured without too
much expense. Long shepherds crooks
of pure silver, hand screens of lace and
ivory, beautiful fans of long ostrich
plumes with carved handles of mother
of pearl, cut glass vases are also very
charming as gifts, but as Mrs. Carlyle's
maid would say, Every expensive"
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
FRENCH FASHIONS.
HOW PARIsIENNEs ARE DRESSING
THEIR HEADS AND ARMS.
New Couture for Morning Costume.
and Evening Toilets-The Vast
importance of Wearing Huge
and Perfect Sleeve.

Paris, Oct. 20.-It will continue the
fashion this winter Ito have the sleeves
very large and the hair combed down
over the ears. Other details more or
less important pale before these two.
If the statement seems hyperbolical
the reader can verify it by observing a
woman at any juncture where her dress
is of Importance. Always her hand in
voluntarily seeks the part of it with
which fashion is for the moment pre-
occupied, to see that it is enough dis
tended or collapsed, and at present
when she dresses, or is about to enter
a room, or sees somebody coming on
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
those who put intelligence and grace
flll afi1nar1aent iIltn the work

those who put intelligence and grace
full refinement into the work.
Orders come rapidly and the good
needle worker who is in need, is sure
of finding a bit to do sooner or later.
Centre pieces, doylies, handkerchief
all go down to DiXey to be returned to
grace the fancy of fastidious northern
ers.
When a southern girl shows unusual
aptitude, but no training for such en-
ployment Miss Taylor raises money to
perfect her as d needleWoman.
Miss Taylor is a sweet-faced woman,
still young, but with soft gray hair,
who would be very much surprised if
you told her she had done great work
in providing a genteel, beautiful en-
ploynent for hundreds of women.
She flies about among her friends,
happy and busy with her work and
her rooms-which are called 1.-THE
Distaff''-are piled with letters, linen,
lace and silks, that are to go into the
southern country, to come back COW
erings for millionaires' babies or some
millionaire's dinner table.
HARRYDELE, HALLMA RK.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04

rope, which is carried round the coque
TO the top, and there the ends are curled
and friZzed out to fill the outline be-
tween the coQue and the top of the
head. Pearls may be twisted into the
rope and a pompon be placed at one
side. There is a rumor that flowers will
be worn, but il IS too early yet to tell;
my idea is that they will not succeed IL
tried. It is thought not too eccentric to
part an evening coifiure on one side IL
this style becomes the face.
The present fashion is particularly
well planned for people with little hair.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
EoR THE CENTRE OF THE TEA TABLE.

with numbers are given to the ladies.
The auctioneer requires six bonbon-
ieres, numbered and filled with sweets,
and gavel. Six ladies choose twelve
gentlemen and the auction begins.
The bonbonnieres are sold one after an
other to the highest bidder, no gentle
man being allowed to buy more than
one After the sale the bonbonnieres
are presented to the ladies whose num-
bers correspond. The men who have
been unable TO secure boxes of sweets
have to withdraw while the rest con-
clude the figure with a dance.
The rhyming figure is extremely I'M
popular with the man who has no po-
etry in his soul. A lady invites a gem
| tleman to dance. If he cannot respond
| in rhyme on the instant, she passes to
another. and so on, until some embryo
poet is discovered. This figure is the
opportunity-or otherwiselor the
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
ADA CONE.
AN AMERICAN LADY AnDpRnprx
She Helps Rich Northern Women ia
Aid Their Poorer Southerr S.s.

She Helps Rich Northern Women IN
Aid Their Poorer Southern Sisters
Miss Taylor is doing substantially
for the southern states of the Union
what the Countess di Brazza and Lady
Aberdeen are achieving for two foreign
countries. But she is unknown to
newspaper fame or general interest.
except in wide circle Of women toll
ers.
A life work may go, on unassumingly
under our eyes for years and attract
no attention, but when a foreigner
takes up the same idea. it is extern
sively advertised. Lady Aberdeen and
the Countess di Brazza have done
much for the interest of women bread
winners in Ireland and Italy, but this
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-04
ERMINE COMING IN FASHION
IFrom Chambers, Inn.nal.l

LFTOnl OIIdIiIDETS JOulndI.I
Fashion exerts considerable inf1u-
ence on the fur market, as any one can
understand who observes how sealskin
Jackets come and go in feminine favor.
A most striking example occurred in
the case of eTTnine fur. For many
years this beautiful fur was quite out
of favor, nobody wore it, nobody asked
for it, and by and by the skins practi-
cally disappeared from the market
Then, year or two ago, demand for
ermine mysteriously sprang up and be-
gan to grow. The fur merchants. look
ing about for supplies. saw none com