The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-11-07
IsAc cHIxEsE RxsrA URASr.
0ns in washinstan in which All the Dish-
 e are in Disguise.

AN A Ss& A<s @-S v " " one in w.sh,uston n in which All the D,sh-
 e are in Disguise.
 From the Washington Post.l
 Since the arrival of Moy Sam In town things have changed. He has taken one of the houses on the south side of the avenue. between Third and Four and d-a-half streets. and here on the sec- ond floor he has opened regular first class Chinese restaurant. such as one can find in the Chinese quarter In any of the large western cities-Denver. Portland or San Francisco. This is primarily intended for the benefit of the Chinese residents of the city, and here the 'homesick subjects of the Sunset Kingdom may come and regale them selves with all of their most fondly re- membered home dishes. smoked oysters, dried ducks feet. birds nest soup. and preserved, candied. and conserved things galore. for the Chinese are mas ter hands at the art of preserving. and they can put up anything from jelly fish to conserved citron so that 1t will keep for a hundred years. and cook up fresh and inviting at the end of that time.
 But though the main room of the res taurant Is for the Chinese residents, where the may smoke their pipes and cigarettes and discuss the latest news of the Corean situation, there are pri- vate rooms where party of Americans can be accumulated and, Moy Sam makes 1t a point to see that his visitors have a good time and have chance to test all the products of his Chinese chef. The restaurant may be said to be run on the European plan.
 When the visitor takes his seat the straw slippered waiter flaps into the room and sets down little of this and little of that, and keeps on going back for more till he is stopped, bring ing something different each time. The visitor takes all he wants, and when the meal is over Moy Sam comes in, counts up the damage that has been done to the various dishes, and charges accord ingly. One can get as much as he wants of the various dishes for quar- ter, and an outlay of half dollar would stall even professional diner- out.
 If the visitor wills 1t he can have chop sticks with his meal, but for pur- poses of utility they are nil. The slen- der round pieces of snow-white elephant ivory about eighteen inches long are very pretty to look at, and sharpened up would make capital knitting nee dies, but to investigate the inside of Chinese doughnut with them or to explore the mysteries of a "gau tur'' is like attempting to pick combina- tion lock with hairpin or scoop up a drop of mercury with three-tined fork
 The best way is to submit to using a plain American knife and fork, which comes on demand without extra charge but there is smile that Is childlike
 and bland in the eye of the Celestia
 when he looks at the discarded worries resting on the far side of your plate. The first ceremony of the dinner Is tea making. And that is where the native of tea land gives the American point. CT. A thin porcelain bowl in little round, polished brass saucer Is brought to each person, and in 1t is put the tes leaves, the sort of tea that sells for $t pound and which never sees the in. side of an American grocery store. Or the tea leaves Is poured boiling water and over the bowl Is inverted a saucer which just fits inside the rim and act. as a strainer for the tea leaves. The egg-shell cups stand on the side, anG the attendant initiates the tyro into tht art of pouring out the tea without get ting the leaves, burning ones fingers or spilling it on the table cloth. There is no proclamation of that tea with mill or sugar, and no one thinks to ask fol either.
 On the side of each ptate Is a tiny cup that does not hold more than 6 good sized thimbleful, and with it a lit. tie china caraffe, with a spout on one side and a funny little concave lid that Is held in place with the forefinger while the beverage is poured out. This Is fol
 "onga bey," or Chinese rose wine, 6 colorless aromatic liquid, a tiny cup
 full of which goes with each course. Then comes the dishes in disguise The first thing. when the meal Is tn, light midday luncheon, is item sum, Ia curious little dumping about an incl
 and half in diameter shaped exactl,
 like fishing creel. It Is made of rlc, l flour, and on top Is traced delicat, 1 figure in cochineal or some other lik,
 coloring matter, to make 1t look pret ty," as Moy explained, on the sam, principal of pepper thumbs on boile,
 ham. The dumping Is hollow, and in side Is stuffed with an utterly unfath omable compound of ham, lobster, roas
 beef, boiled duck, and "ten'a leven'
 other things. as Moy explains. to mak
 1t taste good. With the dumpiings com little shallow plates, like artists colo cups of highly seasoned. spicy sauce not unlike Worcestershire. The next | Ia different grade of dumping, mad kof a slightly different colored dougl and stuffed with even a greater mix l ture of grated meats and vegetables prominent among which Is Chinese cab
 bage, and the general odor of which l. that of a pair of canvas-backs that ar, "iust right" This is shaped like a ha if