The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1894-05-19

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SPRING STYLES
ing array every imaginable combination
possible to obtain from silk, wool, cot
ton and linen. We were gravely told a
month ago that there would be no more
changeable goods, and, 10! there are vel
vets, silks, woods and even cottons that
show those elusive and always beauti-
full changing colors woven together SO
deftly that you cannot tell where one
ends and the other begins. There is
chameleon silk shown now that has
purple ON one side, with green dots or
figures, and green on the other side,
with purple dots, the silk being rever-
sible, which permits several very hand
some effects. There are double width
silks SO wide as to allow circular skirts
to be cut from them without seams.
Some of the NEST sumptuous OF these
are printed around the bottom of the
circle. and others of the wide silks have
printed borderings, which are printed
in floral or Byzantine patterns along the
edges for founces. 1t is a fact not gen.
orally known that crosswise founces
never hang as we'll as those cut the
length of the goods. Some of the bro
cades now offered for grande toilette
are as heavy as tapestry and in design
resemble the ancient brocade called
"watchet," and as far as may be posi-
BILE they are made in medieval style,
with side pockets made of the same
material as the gown, and hung to the
waist by ribbons. The princess style
is also favorite in the making up of
these superb brocades.
There is new wColen weave of cam
els hair, very close and firm, with a
rep not unlike bedford cord, only that
this is diagonal, and it is almost GER
tain to become a great favorite. 1t will
be trimmed with rows of velvet ribbon,
as will many another costume the COM
ing spring. A few of these have sort
of underweave OF a different color.
There are many varieties of two toned
basket weaves and Mates with neshot
and swivel figures. Crepons of all i'm
aginable kinds are shown, some of them
having a raised swivel figure that has
the popularity of appearing to lie loose
ly on top of the crinkles. French cam
els hair in its own distinctive weave
will also be made up into many attract
I've costumes, particularly in such as
require an overdress drapery or polo
naise. Cancels hair Grapes in an ideal
manner and combines we'll with almost
everything, being often seen with velvet
and brocades IS we'll as plain silks.
There have been made several very
handsome costumes of this material
where there is a long coat with stiff
skirts or a polonaise with an apron
front drapery and a fan shaped plating
at the back reaching to the bottom Of
the skirt, which is a fashion now to
have its vogue.
There are several wool and silk bro
cades in Persian and Byzantine pat
terms. Some of these are slightly change
able in the background. They will
make stylish coats and accessories to
other costumes, but l scarcely think
there will be many full costumes made
of them.
The crepons, the silk warp hepriettes,
the chrystaIettes, the fayettas and print
ed woods will all be very much liked by
those with refined tastes, as also will
the ever lovely challies, which are pro-
duced this season in more exquisite
beauty than ever before. There is also
a long list of new effects in granite mix
LuICS, III cAOpAC1o PAaANos 40 AASA-N
weight cheviots and silk and wool hair
lines. All these goods are shown in the
principal colors of the season, which
are beige, cordone, antelope, fanon,
black, golden brown, olive, mastic,
dahlia, petunia, myrtle, seal brown, tan,
gray, biscuit, flax, dove, magenta, sol
ferino and all shades of heliotrope and
green. There are also quite number
of striped goods seen showing mingling
of mignonette, green and black, or white,
violet, amber and amethyst, and there
are many woods showing velvet raised
dots and figures. All these are for
dresses, and SO will be hundreds of
styles in taffeta silks, notified and
plain, and some of them dotted with
bright colors in raised swivel patterns.
There seem to be no set rules regard
ing the way of making up these fabrics,
and every woman can have personal !
choice. The new trimmings are very
beautiful and would please the most ex-
acting. There is very much jewel work
on passementerie, and there are novel
ties in the manner of passementeries
toe, some OF il being made in the form
of bretelles, collarettes and corselets and
stocks as well as tabs and stoles. In