The sun., 1894-02-20
WHO is WORTHY TO REIGN I
TBE cRoWE r. <W<ITTNe VIEW
KING or FASHION


"no'oe ''r
Half dozen gay bounders Of the younger
set we're sitting in n Calumet Club window
yesterday afternoon watching the rather dis
mai parade in the street. Rainy days are
usually popular In the Calumets windows
Yesterday was the exception. There was really
no one on the avenue worth looking at.
Halt a dozen thirsts, AZ unslakable as 90
many acres Of an slksli desert. are not de.
pendent for solace. however upon . parade oI
fashion as seen from club window. Some
thing serious always marks the first weeks OF
the Lenten season at the Calumet Last year
a new drink was introduced. Yesterday it was
the first serious discussion that has occurred
there within the memory Of the younger set
II mar seem trivial to those who know moth
ing aboutit Younger cIubdom, however, has
found II interesting and susceptible Of very
serious treatment. When the Lenten season
began some one started the question
who is the leader OF mems fashions %
One group OF swells. that group that counted
f. Berry Wall. Fred Mar. Fred Gebhhrd, and
at one time Frank Ellison and young Willie
Havemeyer. has wilted. Each OF them was
leader OF his own particular set. Who has
succeeded any one OF them. and in particular,
who has succeeded T.. Berry Wall By general
consent crowned King Of the Dudes7 Time
was when Mr.. Wallis trousers and scarfs were
more interesting than the tariff Even the
term dude has gone under and a class Of
swells and bounders has succeeded.
There is a distinct want in society" said
one OF the Calumet men. who sat in the win
-, ~" w" , 's ..s, ~ nono ,n.h
VINO may De recoGnized as leader In clothes.
Iorsw NV -'' "
r,,.. ,..,.., :.
the truth. The silence was broken by the
professional advocate OF English country
houses. because they have the foxes YOU
know" He ordered six brandies and so las.
Vow. Berry Wall was bad iorm." continued
the n speaker s,n. ana-sr,wo know how to dress
must have some reeosnized leader. We
simply must society REQUIRES II. We require
It: Our r Wallets i REQUIRE "a ire it, Too much oriai.
we'll"
there are donsn men S who sSvs been
and each has his points. There's Archie Fell.
for instance. He's always we'll dressed now
Once Archie wore nothing but American cm,
clothes and they were always too 90 closely saa cut.
as arc most American clothes, Some one
saw him on saturday He didn't wear % an over.
cont His trousers were dark gray black
bottom % and he v, wore % % backed % ionS eusD o
away coat that llttOt him ioo:oly. He dresses
TOO coneer'atiNeD' however, 10 'eau as berry
Wal Sss S.a" ma, tn. point" .,,d III, fra, .,.,s.
is nlI right, but he's mot an inventor. and he
Again the advocate OF En- elish country houses
broke the silence with his best known witt
cism;
Should man avoid wearing overcoats be-
Sater. now Know 0 That sa Il is suppSssd nsw de to
look very English, but chamois underyests
are uncom Portable. some ono must lead and
" How about Keginald De Koven?" said
Gin Flzzes." He has blossom ed this winter.
he was consulting with his tailor. Have You
seen him lately Reggie is a very heavy dog
az it, ni ssnad
ers padded out good biz. too; Then. Reggie
other side. High. you know. with the edges
turned over. He's deucedIy proper iu his
clothes now"
the man who had introduced the subject.
That was objected to b., every man present.
Kovess eI proposer Th.le ia sam aS .Ntr.pe Mr De
dresser for you. Fitch 10 conspicuous on
Lean tell yop; He goes in for the
shaped. and his collars are high and
open In the front. 50 that they may
DO broken down. lie does a lot with
bis scaris. too. Fitch Erides himself on
rehearslng at the Lyceum he paid more at |
tention to dressing It than to seeing that the |
Ines were spok Ell correctly. Fitch used To !
come down to rehearsals. so I'm told, wearing |
some very strange clothes. One dav i would |
be eo, sui. Of g.aS r. with spa spSts to match and
He also affects very long paddock coats and |
scarf pins and rings"
nut new man objected to his linen. and another |
% his general style.
One man had not Joined In the conversation.
His opinion was OF value on such subjects and |
ie knew II. Many OF his rem arks on dress and
What q gentleman should do under all circum-
'tances have found their way eventually into
print in col m OF ia hion paper tina is wids-
y read by men who wear ready. made clothes
tut want to know. This man nj ade n remark
lot long ago that carried cOnsternation 10 the
eaders OF this column as II appeared in print
laid he: Whenever l 20 10 the country In
he summer. tell my man to put my golf suit
n my bag" That has been cleared up since.
|ut at any rate this man talks decisiYsly and
o the point.
You're slow lot." said he. and you're be-
lind Abont four laps on everything but drinks |
don't mind telling you who has suce eed ed r. |
jerry Wall It's j. Lee Taller"
Each OF the other five bounders look ed at
lin inquiringly and admiringly and said:
why OfcOurse old chan that's n fnetb