The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-11-18
LA MERE BAUcHE.
FL ANrHoNr rRoLLoPE.

search Of good hotels and picturesque beauty
combined do not generally extend their jour
ney. to tho Eastern Pyrenees. They rarely get
beyond Luchon and in this they are right, as they
TINS end their organizations at the most lovely
spot among these mountains; and are as q rule so
deceived. imposed on, and bewildered by guides.
innkeepers. and horse owners at this otherwise
delight full place as TO become undesirous OF fur
tier travel. Nor do invalids from distant parts
frequent vernet. People Of fashion 60 to the
Faux Bonnes and to Luchon. and people who
arc really III TO Bsreges and Cauterets. II Is
at these places that one meets crowds OF Paris
isns and the daughter, and wives OF rich mer-
chants from Bordeaux, with an admixture,
now by no means nconsiderable. OF Englishmen
and English women. But the Eastern Pyrenees
are still unfrepuented. And probably they will
remain so; for though there are among them
lovely valleys-and of all such the valley Of
Vernet IL perhaps the most loyely-they cannot
compete with the mountain scenery Of other
tourlst-loved regions in Europe. At the Port de
Nenasquez and the Breche de Roland In the
Western Pyrenees, or rather. TO speak more
truly. at spots in the close vicinity OF these
famous mountain entrances from France into
spain, ono can make comparisons with Switzer-
land. northern Italy. the Tyrol, and ireland.
which will not DO injurious TO the scenes then
under view. but among the eastern mountains
this can rarely be done. The hills do not stand
thickly together so as to group themselves; the
passes from one valley To another. though not
wanting In altitude. are not close pressed to-
acther with overhanging rocks. and are deficient
in grandeur MS we'll a. loveliuess. And then. as
natural consequence of all this, the hotels
are not quite rs good a. they should I've.
But there Is one mountain among them which
can claim TO rank with the Pic du Midi or the
Maledetta. No one can pooh the stern old
Canigou. standing high and solitary. solemn and
grand. between the two roads which run from
Perplgnan into Spain. the one by Prades and the
other by lie Boulon. Under the Canigou. toward
the west, lie the hot baths of vernet, in a close,
secluded valley. which, rs ! have said before. is.
as far as I know, the sweetest spot in these East
ern Pyrenecs.
The frequenters Of these baths were n few
years back gathered almost entirely from towns
not very far distant from PerpiRnan Narbonne,
Carcassonne. and Bezieres, and the baths there
fore were not famous, expensive. or luxurious;
but those who believed in them believed with
great faith; and IL was certainly the fact that
men and women who went thither worn with
toll. sick with excessee. and nervous through
cver-care. came hack fresh and strong. fit once
more TO attack the world with all It's woes.
Their character in latter days does not seem to
have changed. though their circle OF admirers
may perhaps be somewhat extended.
In those days by far the most noted and illus
trious person in the village of vernet was La
Mere Bauche. That there had once been a Pere
Bauchc was known to the world, for there was a
Fills Bauche who lived with his mother: but
no one seemed to remember more of him
than that he had once existed. { vernet he
had never been known. La Mere Bauche was q
native of the village. but her married life had
becn passed away from IL. and she had returned
in her early TO become proprietress
and manager. or. as one may say, the heart and
soul OF the Hotel Bauche at vernet.
This hotel was n large and somewhat rough
establishment, intended for the accommodation
of invalids who came to vernet for their health.
1t was built Immediately over one OF the thermal
springs. so that the water flowed from the bowels
OF the earth directly into the baths. There was
accommodation for seventy people. and during
tho summer and autumn months the place
was always full. Not a few also were to be
found there during the winter and spring. for
tile charges OF Madame Bauche were low, and
the accommodation reasonably good.
And in this respect, "a indeed in all others.
Madame Bauche had the reputation of being an
honest woman. She had a certain price. from
which no earthly consideration would induce
her to depart. and certain returns for this price
In the shape Of dejeuners and dinners, baths
and beds. which she never failed to give in ac-
cordance with the dictates of n strict con-
science. These were traits in the character OF
an hotel keeper which cannot be praised too
highly, and which had met their due reward in
the custom OF the public. But nevertheless
there were those who thought that there was
occasionally ground for complaint in the con-
duct even of Madame Bauche.
In the first place she was deficient in that
pleasant smiling softness which should belong
to any keeper OF a house OF public entertain
ment. In her general mode of life she was
stern and silent with her guests. autocratic, au-
thoritative, and sometimes contradictory in her
house, and altogether irrational and unconcilia-
tory when any change even for q day was pro-
losed to her. or when any shadow of a complaint
reached her ears.
Indeed OF complaint, as made against tho
establishment, she was altogether intolerant.
TO such she had but one answer. He or she
who complained might leave the place
At a moments notice IL it SO pleased them.
There were always others ready to take their
Places. The power OF making this answer came
o: her from the lowness of her prices; and it
was n power which was very dear To her.
The baths were taken at different hours ac-
cording TO medical advice. but the usual time
was from five to seven in the morning. The
dejeuner or early meal was Mt o O'Clock, the
dinner was at I. After that no eating or
drinking was allowed in the Hotel Bauche.
There was a cafe in the village at which
ladies and gentlemen could get a cup
OF cOueo or n glass OF eau sucre, out no
such accommodation was to be had In the
establishment. Not by any possible bribery
or persuasion could any meal be procured
at any other than the authorized hours.
\ visitor who should enter the sale a
msnger more than ten minutes after the
last bell would be looked at verv sourly by
Madame Bauche, who on all occasions sat at the
top Of her own table. Should any one appear as
much as half an hour late, he would receive only
hia shaRa af What had moi haan l.anda1 ronn1
But after the lat dish had been NJ handed it
was utterly useless for any one To enter the room
Al all.
Her appearance at the period OF our tale was
perhaps not altogether in her favor. She was
about 30 years OF age. and was very stout and
short in the neck. She wore her own gray hair.
which at dinner was always tidy enough, but
during the whole day previous to that hour
che might be seen with IL escaping from under
AL-A-a-A HA.a.-L----l