Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1894-06-17


come up to the throat and for an every
day blouse it is better so aud less trou-
BILE. Or 1t may be cut away, following
the dotted lines on the diagram.
To finish it, sew up the shoulder
seams, hem it in front and on the bot
tom. The bottom hem should be an
inch wide and have an elastic or tape
thrown in. Two small pockets are
| stitched on the sides in front as nearly
| in the center as they can be, and sewed
with a double row of stitching. The
corners are to be solidly staid, with ar
rowheads If possible.
Down the front on the left side box
plait is to be sewed TO cover the button
| holes. If the blouse is To be high in the
neck, there should be a narrow band set
around it, covered with braid, white OF
black, as is preferred. The sailor collar,
which is marked No. on the diagram,
is then sewed on, following the line
of dots. IL should be pinned and
basted, beginning in the centre OF
the back of the neck, the wrong
side turned upward. When it is
sewed and turned over, 1t will come
right. The large end is the back OF
| the collar and is marked with crosses.
| The smaller end reaches point in
| front where black ribbon is tied. The
| sleeve, which is marked No. /, is to be
sewed in the rounded top, placed at the
shoulder seam and slightly gathered.
No. 3 is the cuff. No. shows the
front Of the vest, which is TO be worn
under the blouse when open in front.
The back is so nearly shapeless that it
is not necessary to give it. The outline
marked upon it shows lining stay to
go on the under side. This vest is
bound with braid on the
top and may be trimmed with cross
bars Of braid, white, red or black, or an
anchor or other device can be worked
on It,. 1t is cut in one across the chest
and buttons on the side. Every seam
should be carefully pressed on the
wrong side.
HOW TO MAKE THE TROUSERS.
Fig. 6 shows the back of the long
trousers, the front, the strap across
the back, the piece that is stitched
across the top OF the back portion, and
opening for the pistol pocket. The
dotted line shows where it is to be
placed. Fig. 10 shows the fly. There
are to be two of each OF these
small pieces. II the trousers are
"busheled" before the cloth is cut, 1t will
make them last longer, and they will
not shrink II they get wet. To bushel
cloth is easy. Stretch it out, folded
double, and then wiring out a sheet or
towel In cold water and roll it sd with
the cloth inside and rolled in with 1t.
Leave it so "a hours, and 1t will have
shrunk all it can. Then lay the cloth
fat and put the pattern on and secure
il firmly and mark the outline with
soapstone or chalk, having the outside
edges Of the pants at the outside edges
Of the folded material, first being sure
that what nap there is runs right.
In cutting this way there is quite q
large though irregular piece OF cloth
left, out of which come the flies, bands
and straps and perhaps piece for mend
ing. The bands are TO be cut on the
straight, the flies and straps also. 1t
matters less about the pocket facings
There are no side pockets in sailor
trousers. In cutting, care must be
taken to get the proper flare at the bot
! tom, and TO cut the V shaped notch In
right, and pa inches deep by IL across
the top. That insures the ut over the
hips. A dotted line shows where II n
ing is to be overhanded in the seat.
The length will depend upon the legs
of the boy. The proportion is easy to
maintain, as the front to the points
lust one-third the length Of the whole,
The back is little longer. The two
hands are cut out, faced with some
pretty material and interined with
wigan or buckram. The latter washes
better.
The pattern being cut, the edges OF
the seams are TO be oyerhanded, then
| basted. All the bands, flies and peck
cts are to be sewed TO their places and
| finished before the legs are sewed up,
and every seam neatly pressed. Then
haste ard sew the sides, beginning ~
the top. Some stitch the seam down
from the outside; others press 1t fiat.
The seat is then sewed, and last the in.
side leg seams. II the pants are long,
they are to be finished off like pair Of
mems trousers; If knee pants, with Q
very narrow bias piece OF buckram, firmly
catsutched to the under part of the hem
The edge IS then bound with soft cloth
cut bias, and the edge OF the binding
hemmed to tie outside In invisible
stitches. The gathered pants are cut Il
! reach four inches below the knee and
two inches wider in the leg, which full
ness is gathered By means OF an elastic
sewed into the hem or by band OF thu
| cloth fastened on the outside with {
buckle and strap. To shorten thil
model to knee pants the same outline i!
preserved in the upper portion, and th'
| lower portion should be measured lH
tie longer than is needed to allow FOL
the "takeup."
THE SHORT PANTALooSs SUIT.
After the sailor suit come the JACKIE
and short pantaloons. The diagram fol
q belted jacket will give at glance thu
salient points OF difference from I
blouse. This jacket has three pieces
aside from the collar. The back has I
slight curve al the bottom Ii
the MID" seams. Fig.
is the 4 the back and
3 half .ces are marked
| for ID ntted lines show