New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-10-21
IN THE HIGHLANDS.
AT THE GATE OF THE HEBRlDES.
FROM GLASGOW NORTHwARD-THE KYLES OF
Bl'TE-OBAN AND IT'S NEIGHBORHooD-
HIGHLAND GLENs-KERRERA-sc
TIsH PICTURES

ryRoM A STAFF CORRESPONDENT or THE TRlBuNE.I
| Oban Argyllshire. Sept Fin the coiu'
| gray light Of dawn. looking from mgh
| easement in the St. Enoch Hotel, sa" inc
towers and chimneys of Glasgow, its ranges OF
huidinps-Iighted here and there, but mostly
dark.-and its long lines Of empty street pieaN
and choerIcss thinly yelled in mist. To view
| a great centre OF population and Industry
| when thus nulescent is to be reminded OF that
nathetic weakness which. even at his pest
always underlies the condition and achievement
Of man The lesson Of humility may be learned
in many ways. and II is IA lesson that, sooner Oh
later all persons must learn. The city was sui
asleep when we made our way toward the Clyde
and even upon the Broomieaw usually so popu-
lous) saw but few passengers. we were soon
embarked and gliding down the river-at HIST
slowly. amid ships and barges ana steamers thaI
seemed t. rise like phantoms out OF the mist
then more rapidly as the sharp, brisK VIM
came on to blow, and the river grew clearer De-
meath the gradual approach OF the SUM- Sooh
we were speeding past those great shlpyards'-
the glory of this region the echo Of whose busy
hammers Is heard all round the world. Then
presently we saw upon the green banks Of the
CLYDE farmhouses cOuchcd among trees, cattle
in pasture. a circle Of smiling hills. and far away,
beneath a gray sky hccked with blue. the noun
tain peaks that seem to whisper Of Loeb Lomond
and the haunted North. Flights OF rocks en-
llvened the air and in the wake OF our vessel an
eager flock of gulls persistenty followed Win
catlike mewing and shrill cries. Overhead the
dome Of heaven seemed filed with misty. yelled,
dreamiike sunshine Around us fitted many
steamers and many tiny craft with brown sails
and sturdy hull-the fishing boats of Greenock.
neyed past the pretty lighthouse on Toward Point.
past opulent Rothesay.-its gray houses ana
teemlng causeways gloomy in the subdued light.
and so into the lovely Kyles Of Butte. over happy
waterways to Loeb Fyne, the port Of Ardrishaig'
and the Cruinan Canal. All along that course
the scenery is sharply characteristic Of Scotland;
a rocky coast glrdled with steel-colored seas:
hills clad with heather; peaceful bays stone
houses scattered among the rocks; fishing boats.
with red or brown sails. at anchor. or under
sail or slowly drifting with the tide; fields
supcrbly cultivated. alternating with lovely
pasture and moorlanI, sprinkled over with
wandering sheep; ruined towers on dark. sea-
GRIT crags: and over all the ever-changing glad
ness and gloom Of skies that are always beaut-
ful. never at rest. and never twice the same. Be
side the CrInan the Highland piper was playing.
he always does. and We heard once more the
wild slogan Of the MacGregor and the fearful
cadences Of Bonnie Doom" once through the
Crinan. the brief and CHEEKY run to our desired
haven IS northward. along the coast OF Lorn
with Isla Jura and Scarba on the west, past the
omnibus precincts of Corryvreckan. past ST.
Coumha's Garveoch Isles past the slate quar-
rles Of Banahuay. and 50 to the Sound Of Ker-
rera and the gay and generous port Of Oban.
The Sound Of Herrera. running about northeast
and southwest. and being about mile wide
separates the island 81 Herrera from the main
land. At the head of II lies Oban. in sheltered
bay backed by a great semlcircle OF wooded
crags and heather-covered hills. TIE waterfront
~ the town. In shape crescent Is protected
by splendid sea-wan. made Of granite. and
frctted like the battlements Of a castle. Two
little pI .rs jut into the harbor around which are
often clustered many black steamboats,. pictur-
esque with thc!- raksh hulls. tapcr!ng spars and
red tunnels and upon which at almost all times
there IS the stir Of travel. Along the crescent
street and up the contiguous hillside are ranged
the many stone buildings that constitute the
town. Hotels numerous; lodging houses
abound: the permanent inhabitants number about
eco: there gay shops.-in one Of which | saw
a sporran and massive twisted stick once
owned by Rob Roy MacGregor. together with a
brown clock once the property Of Sir Walter
ott.-and in all ways the place Is very pleas
ant \ traveller wishing for commnged seclu-
Sion rest comfort and variety could nowhere
find them In more abundant funess than at
Oban. The MacBraync steamers a fleet Of
thirty-slx superb vessels strong. swift. safe and.
In their appointments luxurious. ply continually
I'm these waters and excursions are feasible from
this point to every part Of Scotland. Meantime. the
immediate vicinity Of the town has charms that
MI E'ac ia I hoN
walked many miles and every day have found
n new prospect Of beauty few steps from this
place will ut any time bring the pilgrim into
Highland glens where absolute solitude seems
throned In perpetual sway; where nothing stirs
but now and then. wandering sheep or the
fragrant purp, heather just ruled by the gentle
wind: and where the only sound is the lone call
OF the solitary curlew or the musical murmur OF
a hidden brook. Or. should he be minded FOR the
water and for the heights and moors Of Herrera.
"A sail Of a few minutes VIII bring him To that
lonely and lovely island, upon which,-athough
Il 70 nv no means habited.-h may stroll for
hours without sight OF human face or sign Of
a human abode. Gazing from hcadland on the
west coast of Herrera. I saw the dark mountains
OF Null and Morven. clear-cut against the heav
ems vast masses Of rock and verdure. softly
relieved by spots of light, and calm II no
gale had ever swept their SUBMITS nor darkness,
tempest and danger been ever known. The
sky was covered with thin. gray clouds, In which
were riffs Of blue. and from behind its neecy
mantle the sun flashed here and there n gentle
radiance The sea. In all directions. was smooth
and still. and the thin. rocky points that jut
into IT, and the tiny Islands scattered upon It's
surface seemed carved out OF ebony. In front
were visible the lighthouse on the southern arm
~ the La Rock whence the
Campbes rescued Fair Ellen OF Lorna dark
speck in the CLASSY water.-the ruins OF Duarb
Castle, In Null and OF Ardtornish in Morven.
the ancient fortress OF the Lord of the Isles In
every quarter. far and near, the rocky shores.