Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1894-12-23

Tea-GoYns, Breakfast Gowns, and Nor
elites In Trimming.
RRou RRoU Us. SOLEMN EFFECTS.
Psrisisn Women Produce tho Piquant or
Something Typihed by the
Fringed Gentian.
tcorrespondence OF the pIspatch.)


! Of other gowns. with the charms OF the
neglige. This species OF afternoon dress
came across the channel but has been
modified. French women do not, Ike
! English. go in for long lines and dignity,
nor at present for the skirt In long
tailed queue; Gala lily effects are not to
| their taste. They break up the lines and set
frou frou effects beside solemn ones. and
| where the idea was stateliness they pro-
| duce the piquant. or as one might say,
something typifled by the fringed gen.
| tian.
The French gown falls loose In front
| and back and clings to the figure at
the sides: the skirt is little long, but
| cannot be said to train as 1t makes
| round outline on the floor; the shoul-
ders are as wide as those OF other gowns,
and the sleeves. unlike the English pic
| ture sleeves" copied from italian cam
vas, are the matchless gigot, whose viz
tues / have aforetimes celebrated here.
ADMIRABLE MODELS.
Several models divide the favor. One
is an outer robe open down the front
| and open down the back over an inner
| robe, 80 that 1t has the effect OF being
| in two pieces, the open space down front
! and back, some six or more inches wide
1t is fitted close at the sides, and the
| front and back edges are Loose, as they
would be without darts, letting the full
| plated inner robe fail freely out. Behind
| the inner robe forms vatican and in
| front hangs loose or else Is crossed by a
belt over which II falls with an effect OF
n blouse. Sometimes the outside robe
| Is hgh-necked and sometimes II Ia low.
with a wide collar turned over round the
shoulders. The collar in this case IL In
two sections like the robe. as 1t does not
cross the back. The material Is rich and
heavy for the outer portion, as velvet or
gros-grain and for the inside something
more delicate.
To illustrate this idea, can be happily
cited gown made for the trousseau
of the new Princess NJ, whose we'd
ding presents, valued at countless
francs, have been the talk Of Paris this
week. 1t is Of hellotrope velvet bordered
all round with sable. open over an inner
robe Of heliotrope silk, decorated jour
over yellow. The high neck-band Is vel
vet with fur on the edge. and the front
is belted to form a boufant blouse. An
other Is Of pompadour silk in large bou-
quets, where red dominates on a ground
Of accordlon-p plated mousseline de sole.
gray over rose The wide shoulder-collar
Is covered with cream guipure over rose,
and all the edges are bordered with fur.
ANOTHER EFFECT.
This model is varied by closing the
back and making a Vatican plat in
the velvet. The effect Is particularly
good when the plat falls from under
the wide collar OF a decollette. I have
seen a very beautiful one Of deep violet
velvet over an inner robe OF gray silk,
on which were appliques of cream lace.
In each corner of the velvet skirt at the
foot and in each corner of the collar
was also a lace applique.
Another style OF gown dispenses with
the inner robe and closes up TO the throat
I'm one piece 1t has the same fulness at
back and front, which may be in box
on side plaits or gathers. and the same
cllnging at the sides. which may be by
plain fitting or by appliquing a full out
side down onto a close lining with passe-
mentere Such n gown of Nile-green
velvet has half corselet under the arms.
reaching from the fulness OF the front
round to that OF the back, In Oriental
colors and mock emeralds. Another one
OF white cloth has similar corSelet IN
green and gold.
sui another ueslSu Has inc AAbhb eN'iNA
back in two pieces. and decollete over n
high under-robe, that Is seen down the
sides. The front Is loose and the back
has a vatican. The two pieces are bor-
dered. and may be embroidered all around
A superb gown made by Rouff is of deep
yellow velvet, embroidered with seed
pearls over pale-yellow plated mousse
line de sole.
These effects can be produced with In
expensive materials just as well as win
the rich ones quoted. Velveteen. cloth,
crepon, flannel, will make beautiful gowns
with the aid of little taste.
NEW TRIMMINGS
The new ornamentatlon called Jour.
so popular. needs word of description.
Ii seems to have no equivalent name In
English. II is an all-over pattern
stamped out to leave the material pierced
with holes. The fabric thus cut Is lald
over another color, which is seen through
the holes and the result Is an enectiVe
color contrast. When the material IS
heavy as - lvet or cloth. these patterns
may have the edge left raw, but IN the
case of a soft material like foulard, the
edges are button-holed.
There are to be had in the shops some
silks and cloths thus ready cut. particu-
larly black, but a jour ornament has be-
come so much the fashion that means
have been devised to enable the amateur
to do il at home. Little stamping-ma-
chimes have been invented, furnishing a
great variety Of patterns; they cost very
little. and are as easily handled as u PINK
ing-machine.
Another new idea Is to cut patterns out
of lace and applique them on the gown
10 fill all SORTS OF spaces. Thus the vel
vet tea gown cited above, which has
triangular lace figure filing each corner
Of the front This ruthless cutting up
Of lace might easily be made expensive,
but cheap laces can be used with almost
as much effect as costly ones. Coarse
gulpures are available for this purpose,
and limitations of various point laces.
Such amateur made trimmings have more
beauty than the ready-made ones sup
Piled by the manufacturers.
To illustrate the use of these trimmings
ia a house gown made with a blouse Of
dahlia silk and a skirt OF dahlia vel
vet The blouse has the front and sleeves
stamped out . II over cream, ana the
edges button holed. The skirt has each
side laid over in deep plat towards
the front, and the front breadth so
framed in has a triangular applique Of
cream lace In each OF the lower corners.
Another skirt for a house dress has two
bands of trimming down the middle or
the front breadth that turns at the bot
tom each way. and pass round the skirt
This leaves two corners at the foot that
are filled with lace appllques.
BREAKFAST NEGLIGEE.
Morning gowns are made OF an elder
down woven wool with outer surface OF
silk apparently quilted. L do not know
the name OF this adorable material, but
believe II is available everywhere and In
expensive. With the collar and revers
and even the length OF the loose double
breasted front faced with long-haired
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