davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

Another pretty fashion Is shown In the
next illustration. The material is that
most graceful of all wash goods. India
dimity. In a pin-stripe of white and delicate
green. The light quality OF the goods for
bids very accurate fitting. so that the bod
Ice Is made into a full blouse, but closely
confined to the figure by the deep empire
belt, which. in this instance. was made Of
black silk. crocheted passementerie. hi q
bold and very open design. The collar, of
rather coarse ecru lace. was cut into q
deep square sailor at the back, and follow
ing the low opening in front was finished
with square ends. as shown in the sketch
Two wide ruffles OF lace fall over the sleeve
puffs which should just cover TIE elbow
and then be finished by other and much
narrower ruffles Of lace The skirt IL made
In the usual way. straight and plain In
front and very full In the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

mousselaine de sole. with ribbon run
through II, and is turned up in front to ac-
commodate bunch Of small white flowers.
The outside has simple garniture of pink
taffeta ribbon with punches Of white flow
ers brocaded on II.
For little girls there Is nothing prettier
than the broad brimmed fiat which is so
much worn. The garniture may be ribbon
only, or 1t may be have feathers or long
wreaths Of flowers on 1t. Some of the leg
horns are turned up and caught in two or
three places with bows of ribbon or lace
but the simpler the shape the prettier for
children. REIJ RAIL
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

There is nothing in the world that makes
one look more stability genteer' than an
elaborate travelling gown with bows, rufiies
or lace to catch and hold every flying dust
speck; and 1t Is quite as bad. perhaps q lit
tie bit worse, to appear before ones fellow
travellers in a dress too old for anything
but to wear on the cars" II you do not
possess a dress suitable for your summer
trip, get an inexpensive hop sacking or
serge and make 1t up after the pretty pat.
tern shown in the first illustrk ton.
The original model was developed In q
lightweight homespun, in color the some
what old-fashioned but always pretty SILT
and-pepper combination. The only trim.
ming was the triple rows Of narrow black
hercules braid. Although the bodice has
the stylish seamless blouse effect, the waist
lining must At the figure perfectly and have
q well-fltting empire belt overlaid with the
rows Of braid. The skirt should At smooth
ly over front and sides, but swing In full,
stiff gigot pleats in the back. In length Il
must completely escape the floor.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

rial There are always trials ahead Of
the amateur IN any art. but It looks to me
as though there were moro IN the path Of
the average amateur dressmaker than she
o. aware Of The thing that moved me to
give voice 20 my disgust was . dress that
! saw on a woman on the avenue the other
day. She was fat, to begin with. and she
was laced. to continue. and she was over
dressed In the worst fitting gown that I
ever saw come from the hands of a man
eressmaker. as happen to know that gown
sid come. to end with. That was not ANA
tsur dressmaking7 No, but am coming to
that.
The fact that the woman was fat and
laced till her fat all went to her stomach.
was what made her dress look so perfectly
ridiculous. 1t was at least four inches
shorter right in front than anywhere else.
and it sagged just about that much in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16


they have tumbled out Of bed and punched up
their hair. women who are nothing less than
untidy when the wind has done its work
with their hair and the dust with their COM
plexions. attribute to the dainty woman an
Unborn dainttness. "She always looks
fresh" they say, whether she's been sleep
Ing six hours In an upper berth or nine
hours In her own well-aired room It's .
gift. like a sweet voice or an artistic eye"
But they are all wrong; 1t 10 an acquire
ment The dainty woman II wholesome,
sweet and charming en- the trying occasions
like shipwrecks and preserving days. be-
cause on ordinary occasions she has ac-
CURED the habit. She always has the pleas
ant consciousness Of neatly mendsd stock
ings. of fresh, whole linen, of buttons where
buttons should be. and bindings that really
bind to cheer and sustain her. She brushes
her hair religiously every night-not spas
medically for a week or two-end so il ac-
Quires glossiness and a smoothness that
one night In a sleeping car cannot destroy
Her hot bath Ii a regular affair." dating
back years to its beginning. and consequent
ly her complexion preserves its freshness
during two days journey. when hot water
Is not TO be obtained. Her clothes always
lie in sweet-smelling sachets, SO that the
NeAA'V SAeSA'V Aha6h ohScs WHICH 08tm8 PARK
OF her personality. can no more be missing
when she appears in a dressing gown and
slippers to watch her house burn down than
when she comes out robed for q reception.
In many women this habit Of dsintinsss
II fixed by early education; but there Is no
one. even the most hopelessly untidy, who
may not acquire 1t II she will but be per-
severing In all her toilet operations and all
her mending. II is the brief two days yaca.
ton In each week which makes the differ.
encs between the perfection OF daintiness
ana sort OF apologize untidineOs
without wishing to be too severe upon
those unfortunate single women who have
not time or have too many other thinRs
10 think Of" to attend to their own welfare
or appearance. I would like to say that no
man, not even the most insipid apology of
Insecurity THAI ever aped the manners Of
British swelldom, ever asked q woman to
marry him whom he did not thoroughly be.
lieve to te sweet. dainty and womahly. from
the perky little bows on her hat to the tips
OF her trim little boots. II, on the other
hand, the untfdy woman be already mar
ried let respect for her husband and chill
dren. II not for herself act as the con-
vincing argument.
When the qualities have spoke of have
been cultivated. then. dear little woman
show them to the very best advantage by
DOMINIC some Of these pretty gowns OF
course. you are going away for the summer
or part OF II. So eve will take that up
6rst.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
Get the Pattern Right.

Get the Pattern Right.
The proper thing for the woman to do
who is bent on making her own dresses is
TO select the style she likes, then go to
some reputable cutter. have her measure
taken. and the pattern cut to exactly ft
her. 1t will cost little more. but the ex-
ira satisfaction is worth a great deal. A
dress that fits one Is a comfort Just as
long as 1t hangs together. A dress that
does not fit is a torment from start to
finish. The very first mistake that is made
In cutting out dress is in not making the
skirt hang properly II woman has a
large abdomen. and. owing to cheap corsets
anc the adjustment of them, nine-tenths OF
womankind have. there should be particu-
lar attention paid TO the front breadth. In
the first place, take the tape measure and
get the length Of your body from waist line
TO the floor. then make the front breadth
that long and allow an inch for seams be-
sides. No matter whether dress skirts are
made tight or not, if you don't want the
very winds Of heaven 10 unite in making
you look ridiculous, put enough darts in the
front Of that front breadth to make it swing
perfectly free Of your person. If you are ex-
tremely full it will take four short darts
ana one on each nip. BE sure that the sides
do not draw over the hips-the darts will
adjust that matter, and see that the skirt
comes to the floor on the sides.
In the back take your length as YOU did
nave
measured properly that you are at least two
inches shorter in the back than you are in
front. because Of the Ungraceful way that
you stand. Now. mind what l say; make
that dress skirt shorter in the back IL you
want ii to hang even all around. II you
cut il the same length as the pattern for
Extraordinarily built people directs, you
Will spoil the set of the skirt. After you
have got your skirt on the belt. sew a big
hook on the inside Of the belt exactly in
the middle OF the back, and hook 1t in your
corset lace at the belt line, and you will
ind that the skirt will not sag. II you
wear a waist like the skirt, have an inside
belt to the bodice. with an eye on that to
book the skirt TO. II you are very stout have
O narrow ruffie. folds or something of that
kind on the foot OF your skirt; it will take
away from the effect of your stoutness by
keeping your skirt from appearing to draw
n at the bottom. so that you are smaller at
the feet than you are at the hips. Do not
insist on having your dress Tong wasted"
Long enough, it should certainly be. but the
minute you bring ii longer than proper It
will wrinkle scandalously.
Make it longer at tho belt line In front
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
Had Seen Some Trouble.

TOIn fuck.
Have / had trouble?" asked the tall.
dark man. prematurely gray. MY life for
the last three years has been one of anx.
iety and soul-sickening worry"
All! one of those urfortunates to whom
bfe has been one long failure; a series of
losses in love, wealth and happiness?''
Worse than that, cir; worse than that
am the manager of a grand opera troupe
that has three famous sopranos,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

OF course. hight six 1,s st " IL be re-
Quired to Tea- with dssk tirts. and II
made after tn accomp6nvi sketch will
Be found satisfacto.S- IN :, = Darticular
any shEde. Fright OF dago.is. ~ be used,
ana t-s psttern Is % de- shown that
furtnsr d. cr.ptioa seems a- necessary.
Ths oack IS made exact'y Ike the front,
Gnd IL opening Is srr-lg-'. on the left
shoSid-r zlad dowr n, a. and must no,
De visiJis. The b. III ~. killed gfrdle Is
tfster Cd at the b. ~ az ne closing con-
Gale By 4 larce 5uLe ow OF silk. Just
tSs two loops. N.-ryu: II.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16


back. till she looked as though she was built
pn q sliding scale-her dress slid up In front
and down in the backi The fault was in the
way the man modiste had cut the dress. He
has certain rules for cutting mis- customers
garments. and they seem to be cast iron and
immovable. He builds a dress for his slen-
der. willowy customer and for his dropsical
dowager on exactly the same plans, and If
neither Ia fitted II is not his fault The per-
feet woman should be of exactly such a size,
and II she isn't II Is nature. and not him.
self. who is out Of plumb" The dropsical
dowager might have had allowance made
Tor her abnormal torso, and the willowy
bean pole. with a waist that defed Venus
rs to length and circumference. causing a
gap like a mountain pass between bodice
and skirt every time she raised her arms,
should have excited his ingenuity to dis
cover some way to bridge over the diff
Guilty; but instead. he shrugged his Shout
cers and remarked that a woman who set
ut defiance all the rules Of scientific meas
hrement could not expect to be gowned we'll
The stumbling block to women is ''scien-
tifc" measurement. About one woman in
i've hundred is scientifically built. She
may have the bust and waist size. and have
hips and stomach all out of proportion to
the rest Of her. She may be fairly well pro-
portioned. yet have an abnormally long
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
Sonora Sara Tells Why the Society
Belle Becomes Fat.
TEMPERANCE IN FOOD AND DRINK
Ono Days Bill Of Fare for a Deli
cate Appetite.
VOID THE DAM TIE s
Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.

ARA, I'M GETTING
as fat as Falstan. and.
like him. will literally
lard the lean earth
as / walk along this
summer, II l don't get
an antidote for adj
pose tissue. What
shall / dor"
That was the way
Laura greeted me
M o n d a y morning
when l went to bee
her In answer to her
urgent appeal. as she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

than behind. That sounds funny, Of course.
But take q hand glass and stand before
your mirror stdewise. Note the effect of
letting your waist run down longer in the
back than 1t does in front; 1t makes you
look larger IN front than you really are and
droop in the back more than you really do.
Then try putting a small pad In the back
OF your dress skirt to I'LL up the hollow ex-
actiy at the waist line, and you will see
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

The last sketch shows q delicious little
house gown. which 10 pretty. stylish and
becoming, made up IN any material.
The model was developed in the palest
Of pale gray cashmere. with a slight pink
ish color running through. The deep yoke
was Of dead white satin. overlaid by rather
coarse ecru lace. The Vatican pleat and
train falls from the black velvet stock. and
the gown proper should At tightly In the
back with black velvet dnctures reaching
from the side seams to The center Of the
yoke in front, where they are held by q
rosstte OF velvet. 3. ". X.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

n AT IN T H z
world II the reason
30 few women see
any relation between
fact and effect7 It In
positively painful. In
these days Of home
made dressmaking, to
note the purblind
stupidity Of women
who make their own
gowns. It II palm
full because It II
unnecessary and Q
waste Of raw mate
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

HE Is NOT BORN.
but snade-that most
charming woman who
may not have the
grace OF q dancing
nymph. or the color
Of a picture Of spring
idealized-but who n
sweet with cleanliness
plus an indefnable
something more. Wo-
men who do not i'm
press the observer as
she does, women who
look unkempt when
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW NATURAL
color, prevent badness and keep the scalp
healthy, Halls Hair REVIEWER xas kavsnted, a.
has proved ttself succsasfuk
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
FREAKS I'M DRESS
Woman as She is and Not as She
Should Be.
A WIDE CHOICE IN THE STYLE OF HATS
Tho Princess Of Wales Made and
Keeps Capotes Fashionable.
SUITABLE FOR LITTLE GIRLS

Whtssa Erciusi~s4y for he Evening star.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

waist or a ridiculously short one The pat
terms that flood the market are a very nice
trvention, there is no doubt, but they were
never meant for the multitude; yet the null
tttude uses them. and behold the carica-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
Dainties for tho Sick Room and How
.- to Prepare Them.
PICTURES AND APPROPRIATE FRAMES
Natural Wood Finish for the In
terror Of Houses.
THE USES OF GRAPE FRUIT

written E1clusively for The Evening Star.
IL You have schorched a shirt bosom IN
Ironing. dampen IL with water ana lay it
In the sun for a short time. ana II you have
not burned the fabric the scorched spot win
disappear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16
We Are What We Eat,


Both men and women are too much given
to boiling their food. They eat too hur-
riedly, and fall into such disgraceful habits,
as well as bringing on indigestion. and that
in turn brings on fatty degeneration. wo-
men are more given to eating hurriedly
than men. Men who eat in public places
strike UP acquaintances and talk, which
brings pauses in the filling up process. Wo-
men sit like craven images. with fork In
one hand and coffee or tea cup In the other,
alternately plying them, till the dishes are
swept clean; then they jump up and go of
munching the last mouthful.
1t was somebody who knew what he was
talking about who gave utterance to the
following: I'VE grow like what we eat. Bad
food depresses; good food exalts us like an
inspiration. 1t may not be q hatterinG
theory of morals or ethics to make them
dependable upon what we eat, but you can
size II up for yourself Rich cake and pas
try. for instance, are converted into peey-
ishness and sluggishness: good soups and
well-cooked meats into well-directed energy
and accomplishment. Welsh rarebit is ant
to turn into bad dreams. followed by cold.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

Try an application OF ripe tomatoes to
the ink stains and iron rust on your white
clothes. Never apply it TO colored clothes.
however. for tomatoes will extract sn the
color ~ well
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-16

inc Brape II uI- OF WIN OIdHke' WHICH 10
really its proper name. has a new mission
In life; Il IL almost a sure cure for -cham-
payne" head or any other kind OF a round
er" head. 1t is TO be eaten like an orange.
adding sparingly OF sugar. 1t settles the
stomach and quiets the tremor OF tho
nerves. 1t Is said to have In smaller de-
gree the qualities OF quinine, and will act
ually allay Inflammation and break up ma
larial disorders II taken In time. II acts
directly on the liver and Possesses mild
purgative properties.
The pioneer express. [volume] (Pembina, Dakota [N.D.]) 1883-1928, 1894-11-09
s:;!,sa:.s-.----
s.1YsrERIoBS MURDER.
A NebraskA Poifticfsa 10 I1ill.A
while Whiting lnrYswa.

Atlantic, Iowa, Nov. 4.-Benjamin
Merritt Of Sawyer, Neb., Democratic
candidate for representative of Fill
more county, Neb., was killed. at s0r
near Atlantic last night. The general
impression IL that he was murdered.
Merritt came from Nebraska on the
{ o'clock train last night and after
talking to the proprietor Of one of the
hotels here, with whom lie was well
acquainted, started for Eller's livery
stable and got q. team to drive to his
sister-in-laws place, some fifteen miles
south of here. Merritt never reached
his sister-in-laws place, and there Is
little doubt that he was murdered,
though what the object of the mur-
derer IL not robbery cannot be con.
jecturcd. Soon after leaving the hotel
stranger came and inquired for Mer-
ritt, 4 Il several persons have said that
Merritt was accompanied by strang-
er when he drove out of town. This
morning at o'clock the hostler Of
the livery stable found the team stand
ing. on the opposite side Of the street
from the livery burn. Crushed down
In the buggy was the body Of Aler-
ritt, cold and stiff in death. He had
been killed by bullet wound near
the temple, his hair and shin being
powered marked and the bullet being
embedded in the buggy. His right
hand was glovelcss and a. revolver
with three cartridges exploded was
found in the buggy. An examination
of the head mans clothes showed them
to contain a gold watch some value
less paers and 81 In loose silver. He
wes rcputed to be wealthy and leaves
a wife and three children IN good cir
cumStanceS,
The pioneer express. [volume] (Pembina, Dakota [N.D.]) 1883-1928, 1894-11-09
STOLE, THEN SKIPPED.


The Warrington Park stewart 10
- Now Missing.
Chicago, Nov. 2-Jules Reese was
complacently pacing the deck Of an
Atlantic steamer, bound for. Ham,
burg, before anybody in Chicago had
learned Of his sudden and sensational
flight. Then 1t became known that as
steward of the Washington Park club
he had embezzled all the way from
$1.j, 700 to $40, 600 of the clubs money.
Just before he ran away Reese packed
up all the books and papers In his Of
flee and carried them to the engine
house. 'Throw those In the furnac,
and burn them." he shouted to the
fireman, "or Ill shoot you in your
tracks" The trembling fireman
obeyed, and now there is no way Of
learning his exact stealings. For a
long time the restaurant at the Wash
ington Park club has been losing
money at a terrific rate, but the club
is wealthy, and they did not mind 1t.
Reese was trusted and he helped
himself to what he wanted. He might
have continued his stealings indefi-
nitely had not his greed for more led
him to overcharge member. This
led to an investigation, but before
my progress had been made Reese
had burned all the books and nc
counts. 1t was then learned that the
steward owned quite an extensive
string of horses and vas fond Of high
living generally. His manin for fast
horses and good living are thought to
have caused his downfall.
The pioneer express. [volume] (Pembina, Dakota [N.D.]) 1883-1928, 1894-11-09

ROBBERS s. SU(IESSRIJI
soLD DAYLIGHT nonDnnY n
CHICAGO snwnLnY sEons.
1--WE Msa Eater me F1ase, TAsswn,
the Prepristsr's ssn lnts tAe sa1s.
: fia . Gannysaek WIN Ssws1sy
eaa TheA Mako Their Eseapo.

Chicago, Nov. LA daring robbery
vas committed In the heart Of the
business center Of the city to-day. The
amount Of plunder secured n not ex-
actly known, but was given at $1,000
In watches and other jewelry. q. ".
Brethauer, the senior member of the
drm OF BrethaNer & Co., Wholesale
Jewellers Mt Il Washington, left the Of.
dee, leaving his sen In charge. The
office Of the firm is In room /, On the
drst floor Of the building. Il y 10
Gated In the southwest corner and In
plain view Of the occupants Of ths Of.
dee buildings round about, YounR
Brethauer says he was bending over
o showcase full Of watches In the rear
Of the room when two men entered the
door. One Of them carried . revolver
In his hand and the other was armed
with a piece Of lead pipe about two
feet long. The jeweler was command
ed to throw up his hands, which he
was not slow In dong. The two men
ordered him to open the vault, the
door Of which stood open. Brethauer
demurred, and one Of the men, he sayA
caught him by the throat, threw him
Into the vault and pushed the door
shut The thieves then proceeded t.
ransack the showcases and SCOOP the
watches into gunnysack. The door
Of the safe stood open and the bandits
emptied the cash box, obtaining q con-
siderable sum Of money. All this re-
quired only q. few moments, and the
men soon made their escape.
The senior member returned, and
soon heard o sound of pounding ON
the vault door. The vault door was
hastily opened and the imprisoned
man taken out. nearly exhausted. SO
far no trace Of the thieves has becp
obtained
The pioneer express. [volume] (Pembina, Dakota [N.D.]) 1883-1928, 1894-11-09
"a R!!'.AllS!SENlG s $ GO DOWN
4 nIsAsEnR orr. Tae Noncn
Y * CoAla o. xsyg san.IASp.:S IS
The Unisn l.ins stea,asr yvasraiSa.
Frea Syan4y IA Auckland. ; IL
4 wrecked ana Over . Husarea rae.
sersess On BsarA Ars Drswnsa.

Sldney,.N. 8. W., Nov. 2-The union
line steamer Wafraipa, bound for this
port from Auckland N, z, was
wrecked on Great Barrier island, OF
the northeast coast Of New Zealand.
The steamer had q large number of
passengers and 1l2 Of them drowned.
The number OF the saved 10 not pos
tttvely known, but among the rescued
are some OF the passengers.
The sea was rough when the steam,
er went aground. Attempts were
made to lower some Of the boats, but
several Of these were either smashed
against the side Of the steamer be.
fore the llne8 were cast of or cap.
sized before they could be laid head.
on to the sea. Everybody In the boats
perished. Those remaining on board
refused to attempt to escape this way.
In the meantime the people ON shore
had gone to the aSsistance Of the
shipwrecked people. The steamer had
two or three life RATS and these were
thrown overheard, but attached to the
vessel by stout lines. Then some OF
the passengers scrambled down the
side and dropped upon the rafs, which
WcSo luen cut lOOOe. Auey urlIteu
rapidly in shore and the people on
them were taken OF by men who
went out in the water as far as posi-.
BILE to meet them. A line was finally
thrown across the steamer and the
breeches buoy rigged. A number Of
lives were saved by this means. Al.
together Ill Of the passengers and
twenty-three Of the crew were
drowned. The survivors have ar,
rived at Auckland.