The Press., 1894-09-13
A VISIT TO DAMASCUS
A TRAVELLER WRITES OF WHAT HE
 SAW IN THIS FAMOUS CITY.


 View One Has From Them-The Moham-
 medan Women and Their Masks.
 extensive and more interesting than those of Cairo, with which they are ire quently compared, because they are en- tirely untouched by European infiu- ences. They are generally covered, and some of them have lofty roofs. In them are found all the products of the east. Caravans go from here to Bagdad and beyond, and a great deal of merchant disc is carried to and fro. There are spe- cial large, pretentious buildings, with numerous domes, ill which wholesale trade is carried on. It was a rainy day when we first went through the bazaars and we appreciated the advantage of go- ing shopping under cover:
 The largest bazaar is ill "the street called Straight. " Its great roof extends for 2,000 feet, with small shops on each side. It is wide enough for carriages. By the way, this street is straight, though Mark Twain made a reflection indicating that the expression ill the Bible (see Acts) was ironical. The con- sul who represents the United States government in Damascus is Syrian, and that fact makes him a permanent officer. He is not obliged to turn over his office to somebody else when a new administration comes into power.
 He received us very politely and de- tailed "kawass s"-a sort of official mil itary escort-to attend us while we re- mained in the city. This is rather desir able, as it insures respectful treatment, Without such an escort we might have unkind remarks thrown at us, though we should not understand them. The "kawass" could not talk English, but another young man from the consult s office also went with us. He spoke Eng fish and was an intelligent and agree able guide. He took us to see the inte riors of two very handsome houses, one Mohammedan' $ and the other Jew $. We did not see the proprietor of the first, but the Jew took us into his libra ry and showed us copies of the Jewish Scriptures on double rolls. As the read CT proceeds he umolls from one to the other. We also visited an English mis- sion school for girls, ill which the pupils had pretty and bright faces. They are mostly Greek Christians, but our ''ka- wass, " who is Mohammedan, seemed to take great pleasure in pointing out his daughter ill one of the classes.
 Of the walls of Damascus only the lower courses date from Roman times. Above these courses is Arabian work, and, still higher, Turkish. It is rather unfavorable to strong emotions when looking at the place where Paul was let down to observe that this part of the wall is Turkish, not more than 300 years old.
 About the most satisfactory thing we did ill Damascus was ride to the northern suburbs, where from the slope of @ hill we got 8 fine view of the whole irrigated valley, with the city set ill @ frame of verdure. All outside of this was brown and barren. The domes and minarets of the city make very pretty picture, in the center of which stand the citadel and the great mosque, which was partially destroyed by fire only last year. Our guide pointed out to us the caravan roads to Mecca and Palmyra, extending across the great desert to the horizon. This view gave us by far the best idea of Damascus and its surround ings. Twenty miles away we caught the gleam of a lake, into which the Barada (the Abana of Scriptures) pours its flood. Except in the spring it is rather mo- rass than lake.
 Our hotel at Damascus, the Hotel Diamatri-K Kara, was formerly the palace ! of wealthy pasha, and it contained in teresting specimens of decorative work of the first class. It is very well kept far better than any hotel ill Jerusalem. In fact, the Jerusalem hotels are the poorest we have encountered so far in our travels Our Damascus hotel was built around central court, embellish- ed by handsome fountain and orange 1 and lemon trees. Every window on the street in Damascus, the streets being narrow, is covered by wooden lattice. | You can look out through it, but you cannot see into the room across the way. It is considered very improper to raise | this lattice. You might see MOham- medan woman, or she might see you, which would make trouble. A very pc culiar effect is produced by figured muslin which many of the Mohamme- dan women wear over their faces It makes them look like masqueraders with masks. You see something that looks like features, but 1t is not A roguish eye may be twinkling under the gauzy material, but it is completely dis guised. It is said to be unsafe in this fanatical community to show too much curiosity about the faces of the women. Damascus women have reputation for beauty. regret to say that we are un- able to express any opinion on the sub- ject. The uncovered faces we have seen ought not to get their owners into trouble Cor. Boston Herald.