davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
SPLIT ON WOMAN SUFFRAGE
me ROCK on Which a washfugtou
Utopia Went to Pfeces

From the Spokane Chronicle
SNh war Is raging In Utopia The Wash.
hgton cooperative colony which left spo.
kans last spring and went down into
hhckitat county 10 teach the wicked.
wSsteful world q lesson In improved social
economy was only made UP Of common
nortals after all, each with a gre. aeai
% human nature to the cubic inch. and
they know IL now.
The brief accounts in letters to Spokane
nave plenty Of force, but lack details OF
just how the trouble started Only ona
thing Is sure-wonlan suffrage did 1t. From
The very nrst there were one or two .ncrn-
o~fs OF the colony who objected to mixing
experiments and insisted that The co!0ny's
business Affairs should be trusted - The
practiced hands or men. But tie ma farifv
oNefruled them. Mrs. JeweIt and Mrs
hunsecker were chosen Cor two of the
directors. Another lady was chosen Sec
Rotary. Several were admitted as fuft
members of the colony
but Ter two or three months there have
been muTn,urS OF discomfort II Was hfnfed
py the dissatisfied that women didn know
mach about business anyway. The work
OF the lady Secretary was criticised The
votes OF the LADY directors were freely
discussed. And soon some one discovered
that when MIR. and Mrs. Hunsecker voted
with Mr. and Mrs. Jewett they had a ma
1ority of the board OF seven directors and
could do what they chose.
About ten days ago the crisis came. The
OF work adopted, ana the majority OF the
board favored another. The Iiunseckers
and Jewetts voted together and their plan
was adopted. That settled it. Ten families
seeded from the colony. and began rack
ing their earthly possessions ready 70 emf
crate. Seven members, five of them off,
GERS, remained loyal These are Mr.. and
Mrs. Jewett, Mr.. and Mrs. Hunsecker, Mr.
and Mrs. Howell and the lady secretary.
The split cannot be mended. A division
OF property has been effected and the Sc
ceders are now looking for a new home
Their plan is TO go few miles down thu
valley, take up some wild land and form a
new colony, with improved bylaws into
which, II is said. no idea of woman suf-
frage Will be allowed to creep. There may
be some trouble over the homestead laws.
which recognize only individual settlers.
who are under no obligations to share their
land with anybody. But the seceders hope
10 fix that.
Whether the seven faithful members Of
the old colony viii stay together on the
farm at the mouth OF the White Salmon
remains to be seen. The chances are that
they Will for a while at any rate.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

The next is another rather elaborate
style, the waist being laid in three wide
box pleats and cut with a rather deep
square opening. bordered all around with a
tiny hemstitched friil Of linon. The Shout
der ruffies nre generously proportional and
extend from the belt. the greatest width be-
ing directly on the shoulders. from which
It tapers, front and back. to the waist
band, which IL q double fold of material,
simply buttoned at the back. The sash
ends reach from the side seams. and should
serve for decorative purposes alone. the
more substantial fastening being afforded
by the buttons. The skirt is quite plain In
front, with a slight fullness on each side
and very full In the back. A simple but
stylish and popular finish Is given by the
four-inch hem, which must. OF course be
turned and stitched on the right side.
The fourth design Is an unusually pretty
enc for q small lady Of seven or eight years
1t Is made with q yoke just deep enough to
give space for the armholes. which should
simply be bcurd with a band Of the mate
rial A deep. V-shaped opening 10 cut in
fro. (: the point reaching quite to the edge
Of the yoke: in the back the opening is
circular. and full ruffle sewed all around,
the width tapering In front from shoulder
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
MANAGEMENT OF SERVANTS.
Importance of Confederation on the
Part Of the Mistress.

From the New York Herald.
While we have an almost incessant COM
plant of the servant girl of her shortcom-
ings In general and In particular we hear
little about the houselxeeper's obligation to
at least provide her with a few more COM
forts and attractions than she has enjoyed.
While the scientists are contend.ng over
the problem of whether man IS greater than
his environment, we would do well 10 as
sumo that woman is not. and that a room
so arranged and equipped that II will give
a most impressive object lesson In neatness
and order is a surer method of instruction
than all the reprimands and lectures which
we are wont TO bestow upon the very faIIi-
BILE maid of Erin or other immigrant servi-
tors
1t is an unaccountable phase of the vaunt-
ed sisterhood OF woman" that in many
homes OF plenty, or even moderate luxury,
the servants quarters are no more attrac-
tive or comfortable than bare white walls
and small iron cots can make them.
There is a better way than this. for one
woman at least, who has tried g. Keeps her
servants so long-though Of moderate means
that her neighbors believe she has some
occult power over them. This hidden power
Is, however, nothing greater nor less than
mere MISREPRESENTATION for the pri-
mary needs of these dependent fellow crea-
lures who, IL subservient, are also human.
beheVing IL sanitary TO have the walls OF
the servants loom whitewashed every
spring, she overcones the chilling effect by
stirring a small portion Of aniline dyeing
powder In the mixed lime to color Il, for the
maid dearly loves color. Sometimes she
puts In red powder til the wash Is a bril-
nan, PINK, or ochre. making IL pale yellow.
or their favorite apple green.
Large autographs of country scenes were
framed In oak frames. A small outlay In
ciuoeo splasher, cretonne covering for
cushions ho Ia
tains inside the green roller shade, There
were washable mats and a pin cushion on
the bureau. and a bright carpet rug beside
eacl single bed, and a cupboard put In for
Though a Protestant, she recognized needs
other unan ner own, and hung up a simple
g,ucinA over an engraved Madonna and
s s thoughtful though inexpensive ey1.
..'a.. OF her care for her servants have al
personal attachment
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

satin and white lace garniture. The wing
shaped black satin pieces at the sides are
have two bands of white lace Insertion and
are edged with white lace. The bands
across the front are black satin ribbon,
and are caught with long narrow steel
buckle. The three capes over the shoulders
are OF satin, and at the left side is a bow
of black satin ribbon with long ends. The
collar of satin has q bow in the back and
ripple of lace falls over the sides of the
bodice, which is buttoned with large GRO
cheted silk buttons.
One of the fancies Of the hour is black
satin coat. If the satin is thick as board
ard the fit of the coat is perfect-and the
form over which it Is stretched is perfect
likeyise-then black satin coat is very
handsome garment. But there are great
many Ifs in the way. Black satin, I'M
adorned, Is trying to the most exquistely
shaped figure and this black satin coat has
not a suspicion of trim ming on 1t beside the
stitchir &. ve-y pretty design IS made
with double breasted coat front, slightly
pointed back and front, and cut quite short
OF the hips. ne umbrella skirt, which has
ell the fuliness adjusted in the back. Is put
on the waist plain, and has two rows OF
stitching, and the same on the sleeves and
revers. A Pretty skirt to wear with 1t Is
made OF black peau de sale, brocaded with
rose bu-ls in colors. The skirt is made per-
fectly plain. If you have a figure that
would warrant your sitting as a model for
a Venus, then you may wear this with ef-
feet; otherwise, you woUl1 better leave 1t
alone.
Sleeves still continue to gyrate in most
wonderful fashion. Some authorities pre-
tend to believe that they will be smaller.
Possibly, but they show no sign of mercy On
material yet. The stylishness of the cos
tune depends very largely on the sleeves,
just now; they take more material than the
waist, and there is more labor expended to
invent new effects. A huge butterfly ar
raHgement of the material upol a coat
shaped foundation lining Is among the
latest and most taking devices. Another
exceedingly cdd, fashionable mode is
one having its draped upper portion extend
ing from the neck. 1t falls in perfect bill
lows to the elbow, below which It fits snugly
to the wrist 1t isn't pretty. and couI1n-t
be graceful, and will be adopted only by
those who after oddity rather than
grace. The empire puff holds it's popularity
wen. 1t is SO easily adapted to short half
three-quarter or long sleeves that every
body likes X. The empire slashel sleeve is
also ::,vor'te. For house wear, the full
loose bishop sleeve is liked best. 1t some
times comes to the wrist, where It is gath
cred to band, but ii IAN be fitted over a
lining ana droop over leep. plain cuff
For light autumn cape nothfn,; reater
or simpler than two half circles. one a lit
tie longer than the other, offers itself. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
WEDDING TOURS,
As Compared With Passing the Honey
moon in Quiet Retirement,

From the Philadelphia Press.
Not few sensible women feelingly adj
wise their girl friends who are about to be
hut to wait several months or even a year
or two when the excitement and fatigue at
tending the preparations and wedding and
the eager anticipations of the new home are
over, and the journey can be thoroughly
enjoyed. They represent that the ordinary
wedding journey is a positive strain on the
affections; travelling Is of itself fatiguing
TO nerves as well muscles apt to pro-
duce irritability, and almost inevitably in
imical to the personal appearance, and "a
bride naturally desires to look her best I'm
the eyes of him who has honored her above
all other women. There Is a fashion which
is growing in favor of 4 newly welded cou-
pie retiring to some quiet, isolated place to
spend the honeymoon. but this. too, has its
disadvantages. There is too much oppor-
turity for establishment, which, IL 1t must
come, is easier to bear in gradual install
ments. A certain young English couple
who had been so surrounded by relatives
and friends that they had actually never
seen each other alone during their engage
ment were rendered the Use of q friends
shooting box fer the honeymoon. They
hailed the offer with JOY, the remoteness of
the little house being its chief attraction
but I'm week they began to wonder If mar
rage were not a failure. 1t Is impossible
to be more absolutely alone than in a crowd
and the crowd has some advantages which
a few days spent at a comfortable hotel in
an interesting city with which one at least
Of the bridal pair is unfamiliar, and sur
rounded by strangers, Is the most salts
factory way of adjusting themselves to the
new 'c-a'tnns Of their united lives
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

The first sketch is a pretty design 1 have
seen, and is no less attractive in dotted per-
Gale or light Bingham than the India linon
of which the garment is made. The little
garment is fashioned with a square open
yoke OF piece embroidery, to which the full
blouse is attached. The waist band is of
embroidery. and the skirt, which should en-
tirely cover the dress skirt, is perfectly
plain and straight in front, but has side
and back gathers. A four-inch hem is the
only trimming, and this should be turned up
and daintily stitched on the right side. or
course, small white pearl buttons are used.
An effective and quite inexpensive material
TO- this design would be pink dotted percale
with yoke and band Of pink embroidery.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
THE NOVEL HEROINE TO-DAY.
A Woman Far Superior to Her Prcdc-
cesSOr OF Half n Century AGO,

cesSOr OF Half n Century Ago.
From the Philadelphia Call
There Is no greater indication Of the adj
Vancement OF the day than the women one
meets In the novels he reads. To be sure,
one meets with many women in novels who
are coarse beyond description, and I'M
doubtedy belong to a class to which he
would not introduce his mother or sister.
and from contact with whom he would de-
cidedly prefer to keep his wife, but, then,
one unfortunately meets them everywhere
Besides, these are not the true heroines-
they are merely creatures who have been
raised to fictitious value for the moment
by reason OF some prevailing fad, and have
managed to foist themselves upon respect
able society just 1t not uncommonly
happens in real life.
But the woman We mean is strong and
true and good. She is by means the
mandy pamby creature of half a century
ago. She does not sit and fold her hands
disdaining to lift so much as her handker-
chief. nor does she faint at the sight Of
blood like "a broken lily on the STEM" nor
have to be helped over every stone that is
more than two inches in diameter. And
her appetite If she had no other virtue
her appetite would be her saving grace. She
eats three good square meals a day and en-
joys them, ard IL necessary, she devours a
fourth without a tinge Of shame rising to
her cheek.
slender and languid. pale and ethereal deli
cate and helpless. A spider would throw
them into a fit, cut finger cause them to
faint. And these are the women We were
low curIs" and sweet "amiabIe" faces All
this indicates most clearly decided
change in the opinions of man. Men may
deny 1t and women may hout the idea
but the fact remains that men form The
Characters of the women around them far
more than the reverse.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

gown OF covert cloth gives it's welrer value
received every t-me-providei, of course.
II Is made to fit exquiSitely. y dress that
sets badly is never Z serviceable gown,
because the Wearer falls out with it on
the first wearing. and tires of il long be-
fore 1t is ready to be rem0deled. II Is al
ways ecC noIny to get the best in such ma
ter!als as serge and covert cloths, because
then one viii feel impellei to take them to
a reputable cutter and filter, and the sat
isfactiOD that good fit engea6ers eadea rs
gown TO one 50 that at least one making
over is assured. Whip cords are shown
In solid cOlorS and melange effects. They
do not differ materially from those worn
last season, and every woman who has
ever worn Il whip cord tailor-made gown
knows them to be seTviceable. Among the
cheaper woods. all the last falls weaves are
duplicated. the Only difference being that
there are a few new shades among the
browns, greens ana blues.
Some Favorite Dress Materials.
Silk viii be prime favorite through the
fall anyhow, and probably on through the
winter for ceremonious occasions. All the
corded silks are again in evidence. Gros
grain has been quite restored to favor after
long retirement An Oddly that / saw
in shop where some new cases were just
being opened is silk woven in s,cks about
two inches square: one block is plain black
gros grain, ana the other is satin with a
brocaded flower in it. The effect is bold in
tire extreme IL may do to combine with
other fabIlcs-namely, plain woods, but for
a whole gown-wel. I'D like to see the wo-
man who could wear it and not look
brazcn in II. Satin striped gros grains are
pretty novelty. One in inch wide stripe
of pink gros grain, with inch wide stripes
of black s1tia, WAS simply exquisite 1t
was as thick as q board AMI as lustrous
rs could be. Fabrics Ike that need no
garniture- Rrocadci taffetas are shown,
and in combination with some other ma
tertal will make handsome gowns. By
themselves they ere rather light for fall
wear. BeDgaGueS are as popular rs ever
aad 50 are the satin duchesse, psau de
seize and plain satin. Plain satin is m1re
particularly for elderly pcJs,e More is no
longer priced for gowns. The abomin1-
ti0ns III the cheap r1oires that were thrown
on the market drove the real fabric from
the foil as n dress fabric. 1t is useI in
fssh,oninc; long fitted coats, ard if of the
sterling quality makes an elegant garment
1t Will be uSei for sleeves and lapcis, but
not for gowns. at least not as largely as
K was last winter
1t is rather early yet to talk Of evening
gowns. but las; Seasons supply is crushed
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

The young lady pictured in the next
sketch is a little rowdy, and her mother
provides aprons which are peculiarly adapt
ed to the rough usage they receive. The
Illustration gives a very clear idea of the
general style. and unless the small -wearer
is dressed" and under the vigiiant eye of
her mother. they are invariably of light
bingham and percale in white grounds with
large plaids of pin stripes in dark blue,
pink or black. The pattern is a simple
Mother Hubbard, with yoke slightly round
ed and large rutfies about the armholes
Quite frequently.in order to vary the monot-
2ny, the rufties are of embroidery, and n
cash confines the fullness in the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

The next drawing shows a pretty cos.
tune Tor the girl who has just outgrown
the spron period. Any lightweight
WOODEN goods may be used advantageously,
but those showing a small stripe or figure
are. as rule, The most serviceable, The
pattern is so simple in construction and
stylish in effect that any Recommendation
IN its favor seems unnecessary.
The pointed yoke, empire girdle, wrist
bands and epaulette edging are OF deem
brown velvet, while the rest of the prett y
gown is of golden brown serge showing at
wide intervals very tiny stripe, or. rather,
hair Hue, OF crimson silk. The skirt fits
tightly across the front, but is slightly
gored on the sides and drawn in fun gath
ers at the back Its only decoration IS the
wide hem, with stitching overlaid by a
single row of very narrow brown velvet
ribbon. The sleeve rufiles are bordcred with
velvet ribbon; also the width corresponding
to that used on the skirt The waist IS
without other seams than those az the side.
and Is made on the modified blouse" plan
which during the past season has been SO
popular with both young ladies ard chill
dren. The sleeves are very full, and reach
In one pun from shoulder to wrist.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
Dead Cables.
( From the st. Louis Post Dispat

From the st. Louis Post DisIatch.
1t is not generally known that Of the sew.
enteen transatlantic cables laid only seven
are in use. Those who think the tariff for
cable messages are high do not think of the
immense cost Of keeping them in order
and Of the losses incurred in the giving out
of cables. II break occurs 1t is neces.
sary to send a vessel perhaps 1850 to LOO
miles to take up the parted ends and re.
pair them. On land, II wire Is down q
man is sent to repair It. To get electrician
to a broken cable requires a full compile.
rent of ships officers and crew, from can
tain to cabin boy. IN vessel equipped for
pense. Now, the ten cables out Of use are
abandoned permanently. They are too badly
out of fix to be worth getting in shane
again. 1t is conservative estimate IN
place the cost OF laying them at $3,OOO0OO
each. There is $50, 100000 of dead invest.
ment. The risk Of such losses 1egitimately
makes a charge on the books In calculating
the cost Of operating cable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
Language of Finger mills.

from the rhilGdclphia Press.
A white spot On the finger nails indicates
coming misfortune. Pale. dark nails belons.
to melancholy people. while gentle, tiulid.
shrinking natures arc indicated by broad
nails. Round nails Indicate a natural STU
dent ana one Of llberality and thought ana
feeling. Long. narrow nails show ar a-.Si-
tious ard irritable disposition, ana small
white aail3 point 10 sr;allness OF mental
Srasp. ohstinacy ana selt-corecit. Rcl
spotted nailH show n martial, cholcric spirit,
and those which grow Into the fcsh at the
sides ard cciacrs Indicate n luxuriouS taste
liable 10 develop Into laxinees. Very pale.-
hael rails indicate weakness a. chcrs cter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15
DUTIES OF a HOSTESS.
A Visitor Sometimes Enjoys being
Let Alone.

From the New York Herald.
There are homes in which you are always
conscious Of your bounden duty To conform
to rules. You feel that. you must get UP to
a . O'Clock breakfast when you have been
accustomed to indulge IN morning maps I'M
I'll Q; you cannot don your wraps ana saun-
ter out to enjoy an hour or two in an art
gallery or a library Of rare books. where
one wants TO invite ones own soul for COM
parionship, without your too soGcItous
hostess urging YOU TO wait till she has or
derei luncheon SO that she may 40 with
you and tell you al about them"
There are homes where the rules are aot
flexible because the makers OF them are
cast iron people. but there are others where
they lack elasticity simply from Tho
family's want Of tact in pleasing those
whom they are anxious to please.
The really hoSp!tab.e house Is the oas
where the guest has been asked TO come
m or6cr that she may be given an unusual
pleasure. and where, for the time being. al
the uncomfortable requirements Of her in-
! dividual home are set aside for a bohemian
freedom and unaccountab!lity.
The young married hostess may chaperon
| without monopolizing the callers OF her
girl guests. She sees these callers IRE
quently In general society, and on many
occasions for n chat. while the visitor. Of
whom they arc also old friends. is only
in town for a brief stay and often groans
inwardiy at having TO sir in enforced silence
while her hcspltable hostess rattles away
the precious moments.
The visitor like the editor, can stand n
good deal of letting alone. or course. II she
be what is called born sightsecr," one
who must be taken nom the crown OF the
Liberty statue 10 the roof garden crushes
she will not want 10 be let nione or TO lei
any one else alone.
To be indifferent about a guests en,or.
! ment is the erossoSt evidence OF III breed
ing and callobs feeling. after extending
an invitation, but far too few people Under
stand the exquisite spirit of hospitality an
DERIVING the greeting OF the Spanish host
ess. when she so greciously says. The
house Is yours. senorita-"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

four-inch band of white and about two
inches higher a strip Of the same mate
rsal, measuring. however, but one inch and
q half in width.
For everyday wear this dainty trimming
Is too easily soiled TO be very serviceable.
but IL may give place most effectively TO
any one of the rich shades of red, which
are SO generally becoming. Or II other
materials be desired the yoke, etc, may
be of velvet, silk or Of the dress goods
itself. trimmed with velvet ribbon or braid
several shades darker in color.
d. W X.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-15

The last cut shows a very graceful dress
ior girl OF eleven, twelve or thirteen
years. The model was developed In dark
blue flannel, with trimmings Of white
cloth overlaid by rows Of narrow black
SILK braid. The collar and yoke are cut
after the French pattern In one piece cir
cular In shape and decorated with eirciing
bands OF braid. Following the outline OF
the yoke is q frill or rather bertha OF white
cut as shown in the drawing. and having
two rows OF braid all along the edge. The
bodice itself is q full blouse gathered into a
belt OF ribbon. striped white. which trim
ming Ia again used for the lower sleeve
About the edge Of the full round skirt - a