New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-05-13
THE NEWEST FASHIONS.
WHAT is WORN IN NETWORK.
SILK GOWNS AND THE WAYS IN WHICH THEY
ARE MADE-DREssEs FOR WEDDING RECEP-
p10


AS the season advances into summer 1t is clearly
that chine effects in silk doomed to be
superseded by checks The o,d-fashioned even-check
tafetas Of twenty years ago are again the fore.
There 10 be a special demand for the quar-
ter-inch blocks of black and white lilac and white
and other delicate colors. There are also silks In a
medley of tInts combining three colors, like black.
turquoise and pale old-pnk Tor back, green and
blue. in their even block checks. Gowns of this
kind. which have recently been worn at fashionable
weddings. have been trimmed with creamy en-
brodery on sheerest muslin. and sometimes with
| garnitures of black MORE ribbon in strong relief.
The skirts of these silk gowns are made quite
| plain-usualy without drapery. and in the circular
| shape which still remains popular with Partisan
dressmakers, in spite of all the notifications OF 1t
that have been introduced. Sometimes the skirt Is
silt the left side for the introduction Of narrow
panel of peated silk embroidery, but drapery Is
not often used. Even the little group of froufrou
! rufies is not often these check silks. \
dress recently made by Fifth-ave. modste for re-
ception wear was Of checked tafeta in three shades
black. turquoise and ecru The skirt OF simple
| walking length cut in the ordinary circular
form. and about four yards in width at the
| lower edge The bodice finished with v
| point of black satin. back and front. the body
| being made OF turquoise satin. matching the color
of the check. II covered with ecru lace, giving
| somewhat the effect OF bolero Jacket. soft
| stock Of blue velvet formed the collar. and there
was narrow. wrlnkled belt Of turquoise velvet not
| over a finger In width at the wast-lIne. The huge
leg-o'-mutton sleeves OF check silk. OFTEN the
sleeves Of these gowns reach nearly the turn OF
| the elbow. where they are finished with little
| twist OF velvet. The regulation cum OF the hour for
long sleeves consists Of the sleeve heightened over
| the hand, faced with dark satin. and rolled back
| from the hand to the distance of about an inch.
| The extreme length at which the lego mutton
| sleeve has been worn this winter has led 10 the
| Introduction OF the elbow sleeve for those TO whom
| the sleeve failing over the hand is unbecoming.
| These picturesque elbow sleeves which belong to
| the shepherdess fashion. again worn in Paris
with long wrinkled gloves which reach to their edge
| Charming gowns for wedding receptions have been
made Of black and white check silks. with black
| satin V-polnt back and front Of the bodice. the
| main par, OF the bodice being OF pink satin overaid
with lace. The wrinkled stock collar. narrow
! wrnk.ed belt, and the twist at the bottom OF the
elbow sleeves OF pink velvet. The genuine
| old-fashioned basque. with It's heightened seams
extending below the waist, has again appeared, ana
| is used for these check silks. Such silk basques
| are often down low In the neck and finished
| with a broad bertha. he'd in full voiant fashion
while the bodice Is completed by high guirnpe OF
satin In OF the most pronounced colors Of the
check covered with a rich lace transparent
| gauzc a net shmmerlng with Jet spans.es The
| huge elbow sleeves Of the same material as the
guimpe and finished by twist OF velvet TO
| match the soft collar Of velvet
One Of the economical customs Of the hour brought
about by the stress in the money market. which
has begun to AFFECT the trade OF the most
fashionable dressmakers IN the city Is the demand
for odd waists French blouses. II Is no, an I'M
common thing for customers TO order as many as
three waists with n single skirt OF handsome satin
or MORE one Of these will be a hgh-necked cor
sage with lego mutton or elbow sleeves;
Louis XIV coat. with basque skirts Of ornate make
for reception wear: and the third, a low necked
bodice for evening wear Thus one dress serves the
purpose OF three costumes. and skirt "conirIves
a triple debt TO pay" Any attempt TO Introduce
drapery or to make the trimming Of the skirt char
acterlsc would do away with this economic
fashion. and for this reason the pain skirt seems
to die hard Worth. intent business. IS doing
his very best Introduce draped and -bouffant
fashions and with him Is a cotere OF French dress
makers ROUTE and others stin using
plain skirts, and the English taI;ors. who expect.
at least In their native land, stlN make house
costumes resent attempt TO force bounant styles
the market; that for the moment. matters
are practically at a standstill. and our first dress
makers prefer 10 make pain skirts rather than
follow fashions that have been so eagerly taken up
by those who wish 10 hurry the style and. in
general. by the makers Of cut-paper patterns. All
that our dressmakers dare 20 attempt at pres
ent is the long English overskirt, which merely
shows a glimpse OF the underskirt beneath II. The
skirt which viii be most popular for the coming
summer Is probably yet to be devised. and ike
the elegant styles OF most years. will be in
troduccd late In the season, when the fashions for
the million have been settled upon Just AT pres
ent dressmakers fear any redundancy Of pun and
curve, and keep their skirts as straight as pos
sib.e; and they even avoid the bewitcning niue
volants that Worth has added 10 nearly al his
round waists THIS season. -. ..,.A .,,,,,.
The new black gauzes are made Up with simple
skirts with some suggestion of brilliant color In
trimming. This color is softened by transparency
OF spangled net or rich open-meshed lace me pref,
dotted with fine pn-nead dots or are striped
with halr-hnes IN heavier texture Ihongh ngnt
the poetic natives floating wind" these GAUGES
are strong as though woven Of threads OF metal
made up over pain black satin with a simple rufie;
bodice, u turf back low at the neck in vide
covered with black net. spangicd with disks Of Jet
The full sleeves. which reach nearly to. the elbow
are OF grenadine over black satin, finished with a
The new chine silks and satins liked best In
Skirts and elaborate coats with ripple skirts. and
p!eated vests OF pale cerlse or rCseeoored satin
laces. The new burnt -butter' shade, which Is
black dresses under transparences of black spanged
net or heavy black Flemish lace
The summer cotons are beginning TO be made up
though all summer styles unusually late this |
season, and the Old customers Of our best dress.
any srsa o acnnnp soon goods IN the
market Among the prettest cottOns the ng- |
ured dmities and dmity lawns which were re-
vysd last an WIN III the oths mpss sye
charming cream white dimty. scattered with tiny
blossoms In Dresden china co.ors and patterns. Is
made with the pain round skirt. which Is preferred
with all wash dresses This skirt consists Of "a |
straight back BREADTH gored side breadth on each
side, with the. front edge straight and breadth
in front ID both sldes This Is the simple |
gored skin so long in use before the bell skirt The
trimming OF the esden-patterned dImIty described |
was Of three overlapping runies. each finished with |
three Of the narrowest black velvet ribbon. |
This ribbon was not sewed on the dress. but run |
in narrow headings of lace. that II could be re-
moved when the dress washed The bodice Of |
the gown was finished with three OF black |
velvet run in lace headings. back velvet sash |
finished the waist at the bottom. and the large leg
0 -rnutton sleeve trimmed with five rows Of |
black velvet ending in tiny rosettes the outside
seam. The stock collar was trimmed with rosette |
OF black velvet where 1t fastened together at the |
back Another way OF making dlmity lawn dress |
Is with a single rufiie about six inches deep. put