New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-10-14
OVER THE BORDER.
FROM LIVERPOOL TO GLASGOW-THROUGH
AYRSHIRE-TfIE IIAUNTS OF BURNS
GLASGOW AND IT'S ASSOCIATIONS.
,rrou srArr cornEspoxpEyr or me TRIBUNE

fYgoM STAFF CORRESPONDENT oF THE TRIBUNE!
! Glasgow. Sept. S.-Masses OF dusky cloud were
hanging low over Liverpool rs we sped away
| from Il. in the carly morning. on our journey 10
scotland The air was cold. the day cheerless'
and the time seemed long before We came to the
! open country and were gladdened with the sight
OF green fields the dark masses of many trees,
and the golden shcaves Of the late h1rvest.-love-
~ I'm the CLINT c. sunshine beneath dim. slate-coi-
ored skies Soon we saw the towers ana sieeples
" Ormskrk ana. in its adjacent pastures the
| many bright patcEcs Of heather, purple against
| the green The country there is low and fat and
! Is much in.ersec;cd with canals. Next came kun
! ford green but sombre.-its dreariness accented
! by the trembling of wnd-swcpt PUSHES that gro"
In the cold streams. At erosion there was peas
! ing picture Of placid life in the grouping OF CAT
/ tie in the fields. and presently. gazing over
/ Eouphran we were aware of distant mountains.
rising nobly through the mist. Spires chimn'YS
and copious smoke announced busy BlacKDur"'
! and presently thereafter We flashed into the
deep md variegatcd valleys of Wiltshire Arouni
| Osborne the country smiles with bloom. the Mill
side pastures are populous with sleek cattle ana
neecy sheep. and in the deep dales the emera'n
Of the meadow Is strikingly diversihed Win NV
darker green Of those graceful hedge-rows which
/
After Helfeld there were green fields and pictu-
rescue hedges upon every side'-a lc" ""iiS
OF stone coming into the picture-and then the
open country grew lonely and bleak once more
as we Cazed on vacant moorlands. and saw
with rnusing eyes single figure OF traveller
leesoning in the dim distance. upon the lone anu
solitary road All around Settle. and especially
around AppIebey the vallsy are OF g'eat pfead'h
and snlcndid beauty. and as YOU look WESTWARD
from those scenes Of peace and plenty you can
600 tho mountains Of Cumberland, ana your
THOUGHTS will drift away TO tho poetic past'-to
Southey the blameless and gentle among MS
books on Gretas bank. and 10 "or'S""''"'
auste~e and smple wandering among MS "H"''
hills. and speaking forth their heart IN w'ruS ~
golden cadence and impershable truth Al '''-
keld you would note tiny river h'wihe' anna
flowers. through plain ~ SUNSHINE anu '"'
awav the rcccding. misty. much broken ou'""'
az tho country Of the Lakes. There was hu' Inc
faiptes, nroepect Of stored Carlisle.-memorapie
for all It's sad associations of the crushed Tepe'-
ION of Sand after Carlisle We caught
glimpse OF the ocean. and then, with quick
sense Of freedom and OF home we dashed across
the border and were in Scotland
I. has been my fortune on various occasions
10 sec this land in capricious moods Of weather
but never before in such blaze o. warmth anu
ugh, There WAS not a cloud in the sky, as we
! rolled through Dumfries. and underneath soi'-
on sun the pastures all around IT Glowed ana
gparkled with brilliant emerald sheen. ana IN
the clear. cool. autumn breeze the lowering vines
and the roscs. on many a grav stone cottage
seemed II dance with Joy. The country all along
is level but its diversity makes It piquan;. and
as we heard or saw tho familiar names. ana
| caught n fleeing glimpse = Cluicn ruins. We
| thought OF Robert Durns,-whosc especial re-
gon It is.-and go could not f'l 10 recognize
It's lovelincss and feel lts charm. There wthih
the radius Of a few miles is comprised inc entire
story of that poets lie. His first seven years
are associated with tho cottage at AHowhy'
whore he was born. January o. 1859 and whore
| he lived happy boy until 1866 Then. becoming
a laborer for his father. he was removed t. the
farm Of Noun; Oliphant where he remained WI
he was eighteen In i771 he accompanied his
uarents T. another farm. called lochea.-st1lI
! in Ayrshirc,-whcre. On February H. lHh ms
father died His next residence. ana one al
which ne wrote many ~ his most characteristic
and beautiful poems. notably The Cottar's sat
urdav Night" was at Mossgiel near MauchIh''
whore he dwet from 1884 till 1888. In 1856 he
first repaired 10 Edinburgh, and during about
two wears he was brilliant figure In that brill
In Julv. l7SS he established his residence At FL
| Usland where he wrote among other immortal
verses John Anderson. NJ Jo." and that cX-
ouisite lyric. ITO Mary in Heaven" and where
he became an exclseman. In 1871 he settled in
the ncghboring town of Dumfrics, and there
he died July q. 1896. and there he was buried
His lifetime comprised only thIrty-seven years
and n half He never left Scotland. and even Of
! his native land he saw but little. II Is astonish-
| ing indeed to consider how narrow were the phy-
steal limits Of his environment and observation'
when contrasted with the wide range OF his 'N-
perience. Thus recalling familiar facts. ana mus
| rejecting on Them We traversed the country OF
| Burns and dashed through the haunted lands 81
| the Border-leaving, far eastward. St Mary's
| Loeb and the haunts OF the Ettrlct shepherd.
and far southwark Ecclefechen with its memo
ries OF CARLYLE: passing Kilmarnock where the
| poems OF Burns were first published; seeing the
! distant mountains Of Arran. across the Firth o.
! Clyde; thinking Of Scott. and Campbell. and Will
SON and Motherwell, and all the many Ministries
who have shed mperishabie glory on the land;
| and coming at last. IN the cold lustre OF closing
| day, to Glasgow and our rest
| The traveller commonly sees Glasgow In rain.
| and then 1t is very dismal; but on a bright day
| there Is not a cheerier city in the kingdom: and
| lust now the weather IL perfect. Along the
| Broomlelaw,-while the Clyde flashes In sun
shine and all the graceful stone bridges are
thronged with vehicles and people.-the ships
and steamers gay with flags and there Is
every sign of prosperous activity. In buchanan
| ST. and kindred thoroughfares the teerning shop
windows denote profuse opulcnce, and In the
! bright faces and 1.-THE movements OF the many
pedestrians II Is easy to read the story OF ener-
/ gctc labor. buoyant spirits. and IA happy and
| hopeful mind. The lowland Scots seem not TO be
! as meIcurial the NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. alternate
! forever between impctuous JOY and deep despond-
| cncy. the smile and the tcar,-but To possess
! more Of the steadiness and uniformity that