Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1894-03-31

The first thing to be done in the making
OF u dress is to cut and tit the waist. 1T is
q simple matter but requires order enough
to allow the dressmaker to keep track OF all
her belongings. When ready to begin work,
lot the young dressmaker take large piece
Of stiff cartridge paper and start from the
right straight edge with her measurement.
The person to be fitted stands with her
hands on her hips, and the tapeline is
passed around the body close under the
arms and over the bust and brought to the
back and the figures taken. The length of
the back is taken, the front from the top OF
the. shoulder to the waist line and to the
thfeat Then under the arms, and finally
around TIE waist and wherever the tape Is
outlined on the diagram.
When the measurements are set down, the
dressmaker tak6 her pencil and rule and
marks the first Tine four inches from the
edge OF the paper and brings it down in
slanting line to one-half inch Of the edge mt
the waist line She then divides the bust line
in three, giving one-third its length to the
back and two-thirds to the front and side
front, making dots where the measure
comes. The front, from throat to waist
line, is then measured and the neck shaped
out from the high line to the low one, which
gives it about the right form, which can be
cut out more If needed when tried on.
The basque shape is the foundation of all
tlressmaking, but as just now the waists are
unusually short it can be cut off at the
waist line or little below it. When the
lady to be fitted is stout, the lines on the
diagram will show how to add to the width
without destroying the symmetry.
The darts form very important part In
the appearance OF gowns, but there. is no
ret rule that can apply to them. The waist
is cut IN the proportion marked, and II the
bust is slender the darts should not be
taken deep. II full or very full, they can be
made deeper, according to the need, and the
front may be slanted, If so desired, so as to
throw added fullness where it is required.
Nor can the length Of the darts be decided
until the figure OF the lady is seen. Some
need high seams, some low ones, but the
average is about five inches above the waist
line, tapering to n point, ana about one inch
cut away in the center This can only be
determined in trying on.
When all the pieces belonging to waist
eight in all, though they are cut in pairs
which are exactly alike-have been outlined
with dots according to the measures. they
can he marked out with a pencil and then
cut. The lining should be then laid fiat
and the cartridge paper diagram laid over it
and the pattern marked on the lining, which
must he cut on the straight. Cut, allowing
ono full inch all around except in front for
the seams In front allow two inches foi
turning in.
The dress material should be laid fat and
cut out exactly the same size rs the lining.
The darts should not be cut out until the
lining has been tried on, though their posi-
aions can be marked.
/, The lining. il not silk, should be cambria
or silesia, or, for heavy dresses. OF drilling.
The crosswise thread must be on an even
line with the waist line.
In cutting both lining and outside one
should practice placing the diagram so =
TO cut to the best advantage. as this is very
important. and in cutting the different parts
it Is well to cut them by twos, the cloth be
ing properly folded, SO that you may moi
get two nieces for the same side, which often
happens with beginners.
When the waist is cut out, haste the lin
ing together, beginning all seams at ths
top. and then try it on, with the seams OF
the outside. Pin the fronts together, leav
Ing the edges to stand outward and Their
get the size right around the waist, and
after that pin the darts and seams to con
form absolutely with the figure DO mol
try 10 mold the figure to the dress.
When sure that the waist is. Sc TO call 1t
lmoldel to the body, press back the from
kdges SO that the pinholcs will strain lit
tie. see that the arm sizes and neck are com
Portable aud tn isdoes not bind anywher
or wrinkle, anil then slip off the waist ant
hullsthe seams Il very little, enough to show