The People's friend., 1894-05-31
KATE GARDENERS CHAT.
Prevailing Styles Arc Marked by
NoatneSS and NowneSS.
In Chicago the Elouse Retains Its Popu-
lar Eold-Somethins New in Trimmings
for Waists and Skirts-How to
Display Taste in Dress.
Special Chicago Letter. |

Special Chicago Lctter.1
The shops are beginning to assume a
very sumlner-like appearance. The
show windows are marvels of beauty,
and the counters are loaded with beau
tiful stu1fS
The gowns and wraps are handsome
and chic to a degree. while the hats
and bonnets have the perennial charm
Of novelty that few women have the
strength of mind to resist. And if in
these days she who under ordinary cir
cumstances is known to be cheerful
and sunny Of disposition is depressed,
her condition Of mind may safely be
attributed to clothes. If she is heard
to declare life not worth living the
reason is not far to seek. 1t will be
found either at the milliner's or the
importers, lurking il the flowers of a
French bonnet or the folds of Worth
gown, the prices Of which are in excess
of her pocketboOk. If she only would
which she will not do, however
turn her thoughts in the direction Of
articles Of apparel that lie within her
means she could find much to sOlaco
herself, for there never was a time
like the present, when pretty ma
terials were SO inexpensive and good
results SO easily attainable by the
home dressmal1er One reason for
this lies in the fact that lace and rib
bon are used SO very extensively as
trimming whether the gown be of
wool OF. cotton. Another is that the
,l,,e r.,
50 very simple that they are easy to
copy, and allow one much latitude for
individual taste. The skirts are plain,
the waist laid in plaits and garnitured
with lace, and often finished by band
Of folded belvct or watered ribbon at
the neck. and another to correspond at
The waist. But it is, after all, import
"a novelties women like to see and
nave described to them, that they may
thereby gain new ideas. The struggle
with the dressnaker comes later on.
An evening dress that a Chicago
1ressrHaker is showing among her I'M
ported models is a gown OF white
.reDOn with the skirt set into plalts
and trimmed half way down. the front
with bands Of black satin outlined with
bodice Of white silk has a deep bib OF
pale pink chiffon bordered with a band
nf the lace. while over the shoulders
black ribbons outlined with the pas
se1ne7terie appear again, and the
fnll sleeves are lined with pink which
shir,aers softly through the folds OF
white crcpon.
Another has plain skirt of blacE
satin with bodice Of cream colored lace
Not q specially new combination pu'
its charm lies in its elegant simplicity
The sleeves are of lace and deeI
sonare collar Of black satin outlines
the shoulders. while at one corner O.
this is a large bunch of pink roses an(
heliotrope French flowers OF wonder1u
beauty, if not of fragrance.
smart street costume, Whlci
nleased me much, was of prune col
ored cloth. the bodice in coat shap
aud lined throughout with silk had
came and revers of biscult-colore'
cloth. At the neck is to be worn IN
latest novelty in cravats, Whlch take
tho form of double band OF r1bbOl
tving at either side in a bow settln'
upvards These new cravats, oy TN
yav. are of the inevitable Watere
ribbon. the great popularity OF Wh1c
shovs no immediate sign OF decrea'
ing.
4 careful inspection of the costume
Of this importer, as well as OF severe
others I visited, disclOses the tact ina
name Fashion proposes that all ou
rovns tins year shall be decked VIII
9,,,++ar-colored lace combined VIII
rassementerie; that colored VelV<
1,onds shall obtain to vast eXten
a1eo that sleeves must not diminish
;ao ,nd are to be wired at the top
":a +ham the desired ''spread;" thf
the MORE ribbon bow is to hang 1ro'
everv neck, and lastly that colore
nearIs. iridescent beads ana SILK Gu
pa;3er;es shall be used with laws
h,d She is a liberal woman III
Taah;on of ours. with 10 thoughts
tn1-;no accounts to stay her desire
Nothing is too extravagant 10 eAcl
-;a7,os and. once excited, they mu
be gratitied oc+,,,, ;s ve,
,cb in evidence these days. ana u
covert coating frocks may DC 1oanUe
,1-tho dozen. In light and dark Jaw
py :.I ~ ooats made exactly like gentl
,,o morning coat, and walstcoaU
matoh ra they are to be met at evel
.-,rn lr they are jaunty looking wht
.aan in the shops, but L nave yeI
the first one worn that nus al