The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-10-02


 three milliners' folds. The coat is open In front 10 show a fittsd vest of white silk trimmed with jetted bands in rows. or. If preferred. of black bengaline sim. ilarly decorvated. For more youthful wearers. the vest Is fitted in blouse form and of some rich becoming color In silk. this fabric also lining the coat and the cape-coiiar.
 The new three-pieoe model of dress skirt consists of a front and side DOT lion all In one and two sored back pieces with a biasseam dwn the centre, II Is graceful hanging shape fitting neatly at the top and naring only mod erately from half its length downward. It is made Of all fabrics from velvet to serge. and the interlinging used to stiff- en the skirt is either new "nbre cham. ois' or lightweight grass-cioth.
 Black and white fabrics In combIna- ton, In striped silks, shepherds cheeks, plaided surahs and bengalines, in moire and brocade melanges for elegant toi- lets, In dotted armures. and in many other magpie mixtures have. if possi- Die. increased their popularity. At a recent fashionable gathering In thIs city more than half the toilets worn were In black and white effects in lace, satin, velvet and moire combinations. Cherry. pale yellow. mauve and rose- color are the shades most used for the purpose of relieving of what might otherwise be too sombre and monoton- ous In appearance. A black and white gown Is always ladylike in effect, and almost without exception becoming. Of. len tho white gown with a black figure or stripe upon 1t Is much more becom- ing than when the order Is reversed; {; and where the introduction is objected to as making the gown less elegant in style. use Is made of white silk ac- cessories overlaid with jetted lace, net, or embroidered or spangled chiffon.
 Ribbed, striped and plaided wooliens are shown In great variety for autumn and winter wear. and the novel color schemes bring out all the new shades or Improved shades of magenta, wall flower browns and reds, pinkish lawns, rosy heliotropes. etc. The general rule for making up these fabrics is that when they are of the ribbed variety then bengaline or armure Is used. When they are of two colors, the dark CT shade is repeated in the trimming, which is usually plain velvet, and when of contrasting tri-colors, shot velvet is chosen. each dye being repeated In the ehangeable fabric. Plain velvet. how ever, is a more successful garniture for changeable materials, whether plain or patterned. than either silk or ribbon. When 1t Is difficult to match the dom- inant color In the material, recourse is often had to black velvet, which can all ways be used to good effect on either gay, medium or dark tints. .. The French felt turbans. toques and round hats now exhibited by fashion able importers are dyed In lovely shades of color. in mauve. dove-gray, lawn, old rose, pale and dark greens,
 magenta, etc. For evening wear are some exclusive shapes in ivory and cream white felt, also in pale yellow and cameo-pink tints. The latter styles are richly trimmed with pearl, gold and jewelled crown pieces. bandeaux, and
 
 | ribbons and Irish guipure faces of ele. gant pattern. Black and white deco- | rations predominate upon the white felt hats, white being more lavishly en- ployed than black. White birds. in spite of flourishing humane societies, are used by the thousands by the fash ionable milliners. both here and abroad. Wired bows of white lace. or those of
 not thickly encrusted with jet. are also very popular, and vivid colors In velvet
 in monochrome or in gay shot patterns.
 ''Two-toned" felt hats are again inn ported. This is a convenient fashion, | for it enables the wearer to adopt a | hat that tones with her dress, which might not do so did not a becoming | second contrasting shade come close to her face on the under side of the hat brim.
 There is not the least indication that the huge sleeves of current fashion l will be renounced for seasons yet to come. Returned importers and design CTS bring word direct from Paris that sleeves there are larger if possible than ever. If 1t is true that we are prover-
 bially one year behind the French in our fashions, then the modiste is cer- | tainiy safe in recommending to her pa irons voluminous sleeves, The mutton leg, the draped chatelafne, and the Queen Anne puffed shape are in con- stant use. The forearm portions re- main close-fitting, but not tight, though they are mugger when the turn back gauntlet is added, this cuff appearing upon not a few. Of the new dress" gowns. The puff above the elbow Is cut in one piece, and Is sometimes pleated, sometimes softly festooned. draped, or shirred to the outside of the arm, d. rectly through the centre, the shirrins delicately done, and soleft, or it is cov- cred with rich galloon, insertion of silk passementerie, or other sort of trimming, Flounces falling above tho full sleeve-tops are still popular, also long vandyke points and rounded or square Hungarian shoulder caps. On evening toilets are pretty sleeves show ing a number of puffs placed horizon- tally or perpendicularly, as best suits the shape of the wearer's arm, and
 straps of velvet, satin ribbon, or pearl. ed gimp are placed between each puff. . The more recent importations of French round hats confirm the state ments and prophecies alrady made af- fer review of the first models sent over from Paris. There Is much yet to learn of what the French designers have in store for the future. Enough. however, Is assured to make the follow- ,,e stateY1oent: The sailor hat will