New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-02-25


Satin and MORO effects. despite all rumor' % ne
contrary still prevail in rich goods and dul-inishe'
silks for the time abandoned There Is n'' me
least Indication OF the revival Of sros gram Al,l'6
no doubt some Of the manufacturers WOMB 'N' 10
coo thi. silk again popular one. FOR /; was
amsy foundation Of goods. welght"l WIN Wl''"'
dyes and built up by spcclous means to give the 81
Zoo, NJ a rich lustrous material. Eut the puphc
have become accustomed to such durable w'aV'S 's
tho f,iue francals the satins and other SOFT pure
silks and will never again submit 70 the ''oS'''o"'
that were uractisel In the name or gToS gram
Now that black moirts have become fashonabe'
:, IL well TO recall the fact that these g'ois
are not equal TO satin or faiHe francaS IN
.durabll!ty Tie process or watering '"''"'
which necesr'ates the use o. neat '"''
n weaken the six unless the fabric - 90
nure uDoues;loned quality. \ good quality OF more
,.ip nrohablv wear almost wei as satin, bu' IN
frior qualities Of watered silks are - be Stunned
,ba,he- in MORE antique the softer MORE iran
Gals In spite Of the present popularity % b'c"' "
yyul find a powerful rival In the ne" '"rme'l'e
browns which are a dull neutral Color NOR" peco'-
ing to the complexion than black anu e'"iiF s'''-
he as a foil for brighter coiors.
Tho now silks are molrts striped with satin zen
hovadere" ami plain satins figured WIN 'N'"e
eo,,-es I'm contrasting color. There i stu sliSht
tendency In the richest goods toward f'acr eH''US
Thus a dull pea blow satin j. shot WIN pae app
green figured with small flower clusters III p''u"'
reds and pale apple-gre@n shanhs III '''''
into tb ground colors Of the goods Tn" PECULIARLY
of this silk il that It H. ribbed In distinct rDs ""'
ere separated every eighth of An inch BY larger
cord and that (; Is watcrel on one sI" am S"'h-
finished Ike a satin he Lyons on the o'""r'
The lainfiest contrasts ~ color prrV"i IN III"
evening morls which are crossed ZEN bAN"'"re
NV satin stripes. There pale sky-biu"- stilpei
f., orar,e--inch lines OF maize color d0,t"i WIN
bright gold There waterel SILKS IN iAle h"ls''
striped with bands Of silver-rray and Aubus'on
pink moires shot with apple ieeh ana s''I'' "'''
,,r white Sometimes these striped silks are Il. lr"d
with large clusters OF flowers OF various 'oi''9 "
chine effect but such rich goods are generally pre-
fe,ro1 IN the plain stripe The complaint has often
been made that bayadcre effects ar" uner"c''nl DE-"
cause they give "A distinct barrrled or h"oP'i "P-
pearance 10 the skirt and ada 10 the apparent SIZE
| OF the waist. while they reduce Inc hesht u the
| wearer This IL only true Nh'n the bayd'''' ma
te,ial forms the entire gown. Partisan dTessmak'rs
however have most fetching ways OF Using 'h'Fe
e,rines Hayadere stripes employer most "i-
! fectlvely in the new court trans win pe'uoo'.
fronts Of rich lace They are then USED Tor parts Oh
tho bodice and for the large sleeves Thus they give
breadth and pumpness OF outline "he'' he''e"' anu
detract nothing from the stature
The importers have been most HAPPY IN th''r ne"
! purchases Of summer silks. which look a. II they
| might have been designed for Watteaus own sh'p-
| herdesses those delightful danes VINO seem 70 nave
spent their time IN n sort OF cthereail%ed she"Ir
| wifi
the office The new ;affetas on whit" ground hgnrei
with fine lines In pale rose and "hVe or maize ana
h,e violet and pale green. ana scattered WIN
miniature disks Of white overaiot' are ai'ogeuier
! the most fascinating OF summer silks Th're are
also white and pale tinted grounds OF rose sKy-pue
violet and narcotic green which are scattered w'th
,iriature figures in chine effect. Thus white silk
"a figured with dash Of blue or rose-color. rose
elk with dashes Of deeper color. or pale-green with
. rose figure These dainty goods are intended To he
made up with abundance OF creamy iace with
draperIes and panner effects. They range IN price
| e., twenty four-inch width from 20 cents to 81 n
yard In -seven-inch width, at % cents yard
there is i lighter quality Of silk printed with tiny
do,, of color in chine effect Perhaps the prettiest
-, tho tinted silks are those in pale Aubusson rose.
| q duh pink with yellow tones. Nile green shy-bue.
violet or pearl-gray. figured with miniature sprigs
{, black and white. These silks are twcnty-four
inches wide and 81 "a yard. While they have some
ching like the weave OF an lndii SILK they have
more body than the goods formerly produced under
| that name.
| ,rhe most stylish summer silks are firm taffetas.
| nointile with miniature dots In black or white
| and sometimes in color. These SILKS closely resemble
| o. oroe respects the seeded silks OF our grand
| ,,o,bcrs' days but the dot Is smaller. They are
unite generally separated by lines OF satin contrast
t Win the grounds and sometimes matching the
a.oded effect Generally the ground OF these affetas
| g. place Thus pale-grcen taHeta is changcable
| Min salmon color and pontle WIN tiny white dots.
! ~ corn-colored taffeta ~ changeable with rose.
| o,rtuIc and striped with slack, or violet silk Is
,o,,.,bIe with pale narcotic green polntille with
rh,,e and striped with black. The range OF colors
w. re- ta0etas Is very large. They have a charm
,ng sbmmering gleam which recalls the old-time
siks and requires abundance OF lace and frou-frou
| roc,s 70 be seen to full advantage
| tn silks which labelled American by the
usscturers reproduce many or the coiors OF the
Reach goods: but where the FrenGh Designer uses
h sIrn effects successfully the American
dnsSner often unwisey piles erect upon effect iii
the motive Of tine design Is osI india silks