Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1894-09-27
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK, Sept. 19.--Satin remains |
very fashionable and peau de sole as
well, the latter, indeed, being really but |
a variety Of the former. Both have
leading position among plain silken
fabrics and form the chosen ground
work when figures appear. Repped
silks, however, are seen in new weaves
and also in revivals of old ones that at
present become novel, especially when
given the new name of Gros de Tours.
Taffeta reappears both in plain colors
and as groundwork for fancy figures,
particularly the last named, and a new
MORE silk is woven in an immense
weave that covers the entire breadth.
Where
FANCY wEAvEs
are seen, armure or granite designs are
stylish and in fancy patterns, there is
marked tendency towards small sprays,
dots or other figures on black or dark
surfaces, chiefly black, while black on
colors retains all its former popularity.
Stripes give change from small designs
set at regular intervals; sometimes small
flowers form stripes or alternate with
plain lines or change in weave may
constitute the coveted effect, notably
where MORE weave is seen alternating
with gros grain or satin. Chine figures
have been found too lovely for abandon
ment and will contribute an important
quota in dressy fabrics. Bluet is promi-
nent in new colorlngs, both among silks
and woods and shows forth pre-eminently
on black, colors on black in truth, taking
the lead.
cREPoN DESIGNS,
whether real or simulated, oftener the
last style, are seen in silk and wool
mixtures and revival of Irish poplin
is predicted, because SO well adapted to
the stiff Hare around the foot of dress
skirts. Perhaps it is for this reason
that independent waists of thin material
that may be readily draped, are so
noticeable among new costumes, since
really at present the distinction that is
made in styles for corsage and skirt,
calls for distinct classes Of goods. Skirts
seen at Lord d Taylor's are most fire.
quently severe in their simplicity, hav-
ing very little if any trimming and
stylish because of perfect hang, while
! corsages are made with all possible
abandon and draped so as to produce
remarkable variety. In skirts, much
Importance is attached to folds at the
back, of which the most fashionable
number is five. Three are put on sep
arately as cores, being made stiff by
hair cloth Innings, while on either side
the side breadths are folded SO as to
form outer ones and rubber bands
below are still used to keep them in
right position. Equally important is the
flare at the foot, but the matter of trim
ming is of so little reconsideration as often
to be quite omitted. This fact brings out
AS NEVER BEFORE,
the finish on the lower edge and the
finest costumes for both indoor and
street wear, are protected by 5. II. and
NJ, first quality bias velveteen skirt
bindings, the newest improvement in
this leading make, being the Duxbak
rainproof, which is absolutely water.
proof. The best dressmakers say that BY
its use, the hitherto customary wettinG
of shoe tops and ankles, is in great
measure obviatcd. Its durability is I'M
questioned, because made of best double
warp goods in perfectly fast colors. AS
never before likewise, is there an ex.
IRENE contrast between skirts and cor.
sages, since the employment of very
light fabrics for the latter, such as
gauZe, lace, net, silk null or chiffon, il
carried to an extraordinary extent
while their appearance as a com
bination with heavy material, is
quite without precedent. Perhaps the
growing popularity of slashed cor
sages has much to do with this unwar.
ranted fact, and doubtless the lavish use
of light material in rutiles about the
neck and shoulders has induced its con
trast as drapery. Sleeves are large
than ever and some new gowns show
sleeves that match the skirt and ar,
wholly different from the corsage q
, light fabric in which they are inserted
, AS a disadvantage, however, comes il
the consideration that such waists cal
be worn only with the skirt they ar,
made to suit. Something of run i
| anticipated on velvet waists to be worl
with skirts of light quality goods Thi
is a revival of old ideas and is replet
with many charming possibilities.
, "Miss Y" The continuance of cane
! for street wear is foregone conclusion
so long as large sleeves remain fashiona
1 bic and for the coming season sleeve
8 are even more ample than formerly
Such handsome, new colorings hay
{ been introduced that Golf capes of clot
5 dyed in them, will be in vogue for gen
eral wear and will afford much NOR
: protection than the little collets an
e short capes in velvet that will Civ
some warmth during fall Goats bot
e long and short, will be very stylish i
e cloth of new colors, particularly blue
k or new bronze green. Favorite trim
Il mings are soutache or galloon, put flu
II may be expected to appear later on an
y where collars arc used on cloth cane
1 they are preferably of velvet.
1. "Ellen." Jet will be much used as
u dress trimming and Vandyke poin
come ready for both skirts and corsage
Jet yokes, epaulets, bands, &c, will r,
place the heavy mesh lace of the sun
mer, for those who can afford the il
creased expense or as change froI
lace which has not had its day.
is Crushed velvet, either in the piece {
lg as ribbon, is most effective in milliner
and is really reproduction of miro
er velvet, which has been so successful
SIS Velvet is the chosen exponent for a di
n. play of the series of new and handson
colors, from which so much is expectt
ls in winter dress. There are splend
" ruby shades, rich yellows, blues, lave
a ders and bluet hues, RosALIND MAY.
~ ----------zB
Ge Only rs Old AS She Looks.
I'd Youths Companion.
ly There is common sense as well
,a.attE Il.