The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1894-06-25
THE HOME.
Separate Waists.


Notwithstanding all that has been said
about shirt waists, another chapter could
be written about them. At Tuxedo,
Lakewood, and by visitors i'll country
houses. they are worn in the morning,
afternoon and evening, day after day.
With one or two we'll cut skirts, black,
beige or white, of canvas, crepon, taffeta
or MORE and variety of pretty waists,
one Gamble suitably dressed for most oc-
casions, and have varied wardrobe.
In the morning, Maudras or cotton
cheviot shirts of some becoming color are
gray wool, beige or black canvas, or tan
covert suiting. The shirt is cut in sim
plest tailor fashion with yoke back and
full front, or else with a stiff1y starched
shield-shape front with standing collar.
The narrow necktie is of black satin tied
in small bow, and the black belt has
buckle and slide. of silver and gold.
For the afternoon, when making calls,
| the silk waist worn is of checked taffet a
or of cross stripes, or else with chine
| flowers. The designs for these are most
| elaborate, among the favorite being those
with drapery across the bust below
| yoke OF tucks or lace collar. 1he
| Paquin waist, as it is called, is espec-
| tally chic in checked silks. 1t has bias
| folds across the front like yoke, with
ecru muslin embroidery dropping below,
while collar of the embroidery crosses
| the back, and is pointed on the wide
| sleeves. This is handsome with white
or beige canvas skirts, or with Ataffeta of
| the color in the check.
| The chiffron waists worn in the even
| ing are charming when of light colors
| and made very full over a silk lining.
| Sometimes they are striped with inser-
tions of Valenciepnes, or of gulpure pass
| ing around or lengthwiSe, as is most be-
coming to the wearer There are still
many accordion-p.ea0ed chiffron waists,
while others are made of the transparent
| f1uted silks put on with great fullness
in the neck, the shoulders and the belt.
The dropping blouse effect is given to
these for very slight figures When rib
bon is used for trimming it is the glossi-
est satin about three inches wide drawn
up from the belt to each shoulder in
| front and back and knotted there.
| Elbow sleeves of two large puffs, with
| a smaller puff at the end and ribbon
/ bracelet, are very effective in the gauzy
| fabrics. The high collar may be of the
| ribbon, or else of the material draped
around the neck.-Harper's Bazaar.
Dress For the Wheel.
The bicycle parade in Boston on Me-
mortal day in which multitude of
women riders participated, gave very
good opportunity to contrast the appear
ance of full skirts on the wheel with tie
neat Turkish costumes which are coming
| 60
skirts is practically a failure says the
Boston Transcript. The sight of a
woman on bicycle, plunging her knees
awkwardly against long skirts flying in
the wind, is not prepossessing. The
Turkish costume is certainly more mod
discussion of that point-and it is also
prettier, especially if the trousers worn
are not too long or too full. If it is true
that women dress with regard to the
APPRECIATION of the men they will never
wear skirts on bicycles. Not one man
has ever expressed to the Listener any
| thing but admiration of the pretty di-
vided skirt costumes. The opposition to
| them on the part of women is partly due
| to prejudice, but chiefly to the fear that
they will make themselves conspicu-
GUS" However, fashion will very quick
ly do away with that objection; for
| it seems likely that soon the wearers of
! the reformed and grea thy improved cos
tune will be in the majority. Very like
| ly some women may wear the costume
who are neither shapely nor graceful,
| and may create certain prejudice
against it; but it must be remem bered
that such women are no more beautiful
| ha al finn II, in he
| new.
A Dark Sick Room.
DR.. B. W. Richardson says that the first
words of most physicians when they en-
ter sick rooms in private houses should
be Goethe's dying exclamation" More
light! more light" 1t certainly is true,
that generally before the doctor can get
a good look at the patient he has to ask
| that the rays of much greater healer
than the ablest physician may ever hope
to be may be admitted. If the patient 8
| eyes are so affected that they cannot bear
the light,a little ingenuity will suffice to
screen them. and at the same time allow
the cheerful light to enter. A dark sick
| room must be an uncheerful one, and
of the most potent microbe-killers, let
us have it in abundance. Why should
people behave as if thev were quite sure
| the patient were about to die? In the
matter of abundant light, hospital wards
are more salubrious than most private
sick rooms, for light not only Stays
bacteria, it cheers the mind. To account
for the darkened room" that is such an
ordinary accompaniment of illness that it
| may be said to be firmly built into Eng
lish literature, we must go back hun
dreds of years, when patient who was
sick, say on a four poster" bedstead,
was tightly Enclosed with red curtains
that color, through some unaccounta ole
superstition, being thought to have an
occult potency over disease Old super
stitions die hard. and it will yet require
years of education, and the united efforts
of doctor and nurse, to let in Gods first
created gift to man, to the rooms that it
will warm and brighten and purify as
| nothing else can.-N. E. Farmer.