The Washington times., 1894-05-06
Home Dressmaking.

More than ever am I impressed by the
number Of women who are unable to do their
own dressmaking. am not speaking now
OF women OF means, but OF women of moder-
ate incomes, women whose lack Of funds
makes it imperative that they should at least
understand the rudiments Of sewing and who
have been compelled to wear ready-made or
ill-ftting garments all of their lives because
they could not afford first-class modiste.
1t seems as il In this age of paper patterns,
lucid descriptions, and cheap material Il do
not mean In texture) that every woman and
child should at least be neatly dressed.
Ii the gown must be worn u long time, do
make 1t fit from the beginning. Do not ex-
pect the children, for instance, to grow to
their clothes by the following season because
yon are too labor-saving to let out a seam by
that period. And do not, because you must
make your own clothes, sklmp yourself to the
extent of running your goods. To dress
maker you would have to pay So or $40 at
least; therefore do not hesitate to spend 81 to
procure good-fitting paper pattern.
A frequent cause for ill-fltting home dress
making is Il lack OF sufficient whale-boneing,
likewise a disregard for seam pressing. A
dress well boned and well pressed is prefer
able to a dress well trimmed.
1t is not necessary to bind inside seams, nor
even to overcast them; in fact, question II
notched seams are not better, since they yield
more gracefully to the figure.
Dip the skirt triHe In front If you wish to
present stylish appearance as you approach,
and shorten it slightly on the sides unless
you wish to cut 1t through on the villainous
stone pavement. Allow for the natural sag
in the back If you would prevent your skirt
from touching.
Since dresses must be made long and the
streets will become wet and muddy. be par
ticular to have your lining match your goods
as much as possible. and face the bottom Of
the skirt with bias band of velvet. 1t will
prevent the skirt from cutting through and
will also protect the shoes from the rough
lining. Unless you are positive that you
have complied with these requisites, and also
that your shoes. hose, and skirts are in good
condition. take no notice of the mud. 1t will
do you less injury than you will do yourself
by doing so. for only woman In the last
stages OF imbecility should mind such trifies
under such adverse conditions.
To make fitting skirt after II is all ready
to be sewed on the band, ascertain your
waist measure, place pin directly in the
front Of the belt and pin it around you as il
it was really attached TO the skirt; then
place the front of the skirt to the
front of the belt and proceed to pin
the skirt to the belts, so that it will fail
the most gracefully, taking up the darts
where it is necessary, and leaving the back to
be gathered or plated, as is approved by
Dame Fashion. Sew tapes always on the belt
and parallel with it. perpendicular loops are
entirely too unruiy. insisting on being out at
all unreasonable hours.
lkThese details may seem trifiing, but it is
close attention to minor details that gives to
every gown that appearance OF finish so dear
to the hearts of all wel-groomed women.
Husbands find undiscovered traits OF beauty
in their wives when they are praised by other
people; therefore dress for other people and
your immediate family will follow like
''Mary's little lamb"
Avoid glaring colors unless you are an
artist, and remember that third color used
judiciously will often mollify two pugilistic
elements