The morning call., 1894-11-25

LONDON, Nov. TO- 1S94.-Autumn is emf
nently the season for important society
weddings that always bring, happily, an i'm
petus to the business of our modistes, and
often inspiration, In the way of toilettes, to
women on the alert for the new and beau
titul. Never was there a greater feast OF
rich colors than just now in the shops;
and. after gazing in the windows at tur-
quoise blue and cerise in all their most
glowing notes, anything more somber IN
the way of tints offends our eye for the
moment However, one tires sooner or
later of very vivid cOoring, and 1t is then
a relief 10 turn to something more sedate.
One of the most favored shades of dis
Greet character is dark dahlla-crlmSon,
which in velvet is being largely USED lot
hats and especially toques. FTliled Velours
brlms are 10 the fore in these CONNECTIONS,
that this year are slightly larger tnan Inc
tiny affairs of last season.
We give sketch of dainty up-to-date
toQue which should prove great taVorlte
for autumn wear. Dahlia-crimson velvet
is laid fiat over the crown and constitu es
the friled brim, while a loop of rich black
satin ribbon stands upright on the left
side. On fair fluffy hair this little toque
should look perfection. A new way of in-
Producing paste or diamond fancy-pins is
TO cross them under the brim on the BAN
deau just over the wearer'S front hair. On
large velvet hats this mode is particularly
chic. The raid against the employment of
wings on our millinery has done much to
revive, even in the winter time, artificial
flowers. Silk and velvet roses dispute the
field with dahlas in all their native shades.
These latter blossoms are, of course, newer
than roses, aud if introduced in not too
aggressive a manner, rrjuvenate a dark
hat considerably. In some cases they are
mixed with couple of narrow minktals.
What an amount of moral courage must
have fallen to the lot of a lady who was
seen at matinee the other afternoon
attired in a seal coat with a tiger-skin
waistcOat and mutf to match. Nobody
would have taken her seriously were it
not already known fact that some of our
first-rate furrierS are issuing garments in
which the skin of the most ferocious
beasts known ale introduced. No woman
with q temper should wear anything of
this sort unless. bien-entendu. she wishes
10 encourage rude remarks. Faced cloth,
made up with passementerie and fur,
always looks smart and Is prefer
able to velvet for coats. We have
seen some exceedingly smart French
models in sapphire veOurs, richly embroid-
cred with jet. But these seem rather
the monopoly of people with carriages,
aud for simple daily wear the palm should
be given to good cloth clothes of which our
second sketch affords dainty example.
Black silk bradlng nearly entirely covers
the well-cut Tevers, composed, like the rest
of the jacket, of myrtle-green faced cloth,
Caracul, a kind of uncurled astrakan,
forms a narrow edging round the collar
and down the front, and seems the right
pendant to the black passementerie. Un-
less the skin be of the very first water we
prefer mere edgings to fur put on en-
masse. The cape, styled trumpet. has
blown its last blast, excepting in the case
of long cloaks, all tailors and modistes
being in favor of revers and sQuare-cut
collars for their coats. Brocades of the
most varied styles are the latest appan-
age of married women, and those of the
single persuasion who are no longer quite
fledglings. However, for young demoiselles
there is endless chulce in the way of Gre
pons. with silk canvas lines, ombre surahs
(mOre effective than the mere shot ones of
last Year, and mirror velvets OF soft and
exquisite description. The advantage of
the ombre silks lies in the fact that I'M
mense effect, without any great expendi-
especially if they be arranged with some
rather good lace. On a concert platform,
where red looks rather vulgar. white some
what tawdry-unless of the first quality
and ordinary black peculiarly suggestive
of a funeral, mirror velvets and
the suranS In question seem the
right thing. At recent benefit
entertainment the charming soprano
wore one of these Swallowed" silks,
shading from the mauve-seen in an even
ing sky-to a lovely haZy gold A garni-
lure of gold beading ran round the pointed
tabier, edged the trefoil leaf application
on the bodice and also gave finish TO the
outline of the decollete. Delicate lace was
laid over the epaulettes and was brought
into request for the narrow frills as well
as for the dropping portion of the sleeves.
Dentelle plays more important part han
chiffon in some Of the latest evening
frocks, because, to begin with, lace har-
monies better with silk and velvet and is
ten times more servieeable than silk mus
lin, which stands but little wear and tear.
We give this fact as reason, but we
doubt whether fashion ever displays Y
logic, so capricious and sometimes silly are
her moods.