The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-08-30
Autumn Fabrios. From Harper's Bazar.l


 The first instalments for new wool- lens for autumn dresses are received before summer Is ended. and commend themselves even at this early date by their exceedingly light weight. This lIghtness Is feature of various goods as camels hair. lady's cloth. covert- cloth. and crepon-and is great boon to the wearer, as skirts of dresses are now so generally lined and underlined that they become too heavy for com fort even in midwinter If made of weighty fabrics Plain colors. mixtures of two or three colors. and clouded ef- fects are among the new goods. Small figures are preferred to large. Marrow stripes lengthwise. .bayadere and diagon- al, neat checks or blocks. and some plalds are shown in dull and bright col- ors, though not in Scotch tartans. The peculiar blue called bluet appears In all materials, and there are many bronze shades, with green prevailing In some and brown in others.
 The newest materials are double stuffs, two fabrics woven together, yet scarcely heavier than summer goods, Thus the outside Is of crepon. puck cred or in cross stripes, attached to background of entirely different weav- ing, which holds the puffy raised crep- on design in permanent place. The back is usually black and Is in loose canvas weaving. These stuffs come In all the new blue and green shades. in violet, purple. and in ruby and pur- pIish reds. The lengthwise crinkles of English crape are very effective in colors over black canvas. There are also wiry mohair stuffs as transparent as grenadine or ,barege, applied in waves across from selvage to selvage on a black canvas back. Some of these have small tucks of a contrasting color in each wave, so folded as to show merely a thread of the color; one es- pecially pretty, of golden brown. has gray in the waved tucks, while dark CT brown has pale green. Blue with gold, black with bluet. and black with yellow are also in these new stuffs. Silk-warp crepons for evening dresses come in very light colors, the silk waving across in fes- toons, or else in lengthwise stripes on grounds that are in straight long crinkles.
 It is rumored that Irish poplins are to be revived for winter dresses, es- pecially for skirts to be worn with va- rious waists in the way moire has | been this season. English papers say that these stately fabrics are particu- larly admired by wealthy Americans, among others by Mrs. George Gould, who has visited the. poplin factories and made various purchases, choosing among many a magnificent piece of court train, the ground of ivory white, the flowers of woven gold
 | For tailor gowns are neat mixtures of silk and wool with tiny dots or stich- es of silk of bright color showing on smooth wool surface. Brown grounds have silvery-blue dots, bronze green is speckled with robin's-egg blue silk, blue with red, and black with gold. Some small checks are woven in the new bronze colors in tweeds, and in other fabrics that have knotted silk threads New bourettes have their rough threads forming slender bayadere stripes. Serg- es and cheviots reappear in lighter weights than any ever before shown for winter gowns. The plaids have Trough surfaces, yet are woven like thin flannels or homespuns; they are large irrepular and of rich dark colors Ras- ket-cloths and canvas weavings gen. I orally come in soft wools, and others partly of mohair which is as glossy as silk