New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-06-17
SOME DELICIOUS DISHES.
VARIOUS TIDBITS IN VEAL.


away in this country or becomes the portion OF
the domestic cat The kidney and the tongue. even
the or the calf. used for entrees, while
from the calrs head and from the cafs brains
some OF the most famous dishes are made. The
feet are also valuable to the cook, not only for
the famous calfs foot jelly but as served In
entrees.
Even the lights or lungs are prepared by the
French cook as a most appetzing dish. though In
own markets they are generally thrown aside
Altogether these various small parts OF the veal
constitute a department OF the butchers trade
IN our great markets. and sweetbreads themselves
are as often sold by the poulterer as by the
butcher-the only portion OF the domestic butchers
meats thus sold. In the uptown markets, how
ever the business Of poulterer. butcher and fish
monger often merged INTO one. The home mar
keter will find Il 10 her advantage. however, to
deal in our great markets with the specialist
rather than TO buy her sweetbreads Of the poul-
terer or any OF these small pieces Of the general
butcher who makes II but an incidental part OF
his trade CATS liver is such delicious breakfast
meat and so highly valued that 1t is sometimes
difficult to obtain a supply at the uptown places.
but at the retail downtown stores IT Is often sold
as low as 30 cents entire This is altogether the
best way TO buy It.
Probably the most delicious way OF serving Calls
liver is broiled with garnish OF bacon. The more
common way OF serving It fried in bacon fat makes
a very coarse ndigestible dish of what Is otherwise
a great delicacy. With a very keen edged knife
cut the liver into slices about quarter OF an inch
thick Rinse off each slice, wiping II dry. Season
Il with salt and pepper on both sides and rub 1t
with sweet oil melted butter. Lay Il on broiler
and broil II over a clear fire for about FIVE minutes
on each side Meantime. heat saucepan very
hot and for every slice OF liver fry two slices OF
bacon cut thin and fried into crisp rolls. There
IS an art in this same frying OF the bacon which
II is well to learn. but which cannot be taught eX-
cept by practice Lay the slices OF liver on very
hot platter Garnlsh each with slices OF bacon.
inter spreading a little maitrc d'hotel butter over
re liver.
The calls liver is sometimes larIeI and cooked
entire in a braising pot. and It may also be cut
into bits and stewel with seasoning herbs ana
served with rich sauces All these methods. how
ever are not equal 10 simple broiled liver with IT'S
bacon garnish. Liver saute Is very delicious dish
Prepare the liver az for brolling Melt a large
tablespoonful OF butter In saucepan. When II is
very hot, put in the slices OF liver ana fry them
for FOUR minutes on one side. and then turn them
and fry them the other for the same length
OF time. Take up the liver a hot platter Add
a little more butter. II necessary. TO the butter IN
the saucepan. and pu, in 1t one small white onion
minced fine. and let Il Try TIL golden brown. toss
ing the saucepan OF shaking q 10 prevent IT, burn
ing Pour the butter and fried onion tho liver
Garnish the dish with cut slices OF lemon and
serve piece OF lemon with each service Of Nyrr.
The Juice IS 10 be squeezed over Il before eaten.
salad OF wa,ercress may be appropriately served
with calls liver either broilci or sau'e.
Veal kidney IL simply spill, lengih"ise. dipped In
melted butter then IN fine sftel bread crumbs. and
either broEed for four minutes on each side or
dropped for two minutes into boiling hot fat Serve
It with maiire d'h6te butter or with a garnish 81
lemon slices sharp tartar sauce Il excellent With
Dreaded kidneys. Always wash the kidneys before
broring them. and lay them FOR few minutes IN
cod
The Calls tongue. which sells a, a comparatively
small price. makes an excellent enree. and though
II Is generally served IN brine or picked. u may be
cooked fresh. Select a plump. firm, white tongue
They may always be hal from the special butch
ers. Tarow them in;o boiling water :or about ten
minutes. Then take them ont and trim them thor
oughly and Jay them "a stock Let them simmer 10
this stock carefully until they are perfectly tender
Serve with a rich tomato or plquant sauce. or II
YOU wish scatter a few breal-crumbs over them
after they are boiled. AMI brown them by putting
hot Goals them on thr iron cover OF the sauce
pose OF cover. Put ashes over the not COATS 20
keep IN the heat IT will require about ten minutes
10 brown them In this way.
When tho cook has learned perfectly all the de-
lclous uses t. which the calfs head. which Includes
she has mastered large branch OF me arr OF
entrees. many nice. small dishes may be- made
without the addition Of either swectbrcnds or OF
brains Swcctbrcads are now prepared In 50 many
DEPENDENCIES u the cook. yet II IS hardly nfty
years since swe..b-"ahs were thrown away. In "A
great many parts Of the httd states thry are sun
considered refuse.
The calrs head makes a delicious and inexpen-
with a sauce When sold in the shops the calrs
head has already been freed from the hair-that H.
butcher and the brains removed The price OF a
cars head at this season % the year IL about forty
cents. but T. costs something more when veal ~
scare There IS probably ~ sngle piece o. mrai IN
nd Usfslfffsl Plunge :
head as soon as II comes into the house IN a Iaik
kettle containing enough boiling water 10 leave II
Let It boil ten minutes. then either cut
II into four parts-or. what IL much batter bone i.
cutting from the top Of the head through the nos
trlls down to the bone. Whether you bone the calfs
head not put Il In a saucepan with the bones
adding two abIcspoonfuls q -four gill Of vinegar.
two small onions sliced. three cloves. two table
spoons Of salt and eighteen whole peppers. with
herbs consisting Of slX sprays OF parsley. two OF
thyme and two bay leaves II the water docs not
completely cover the calfs head. more must De
added SEASONED in proportion Before putting me
are scrapcd OF. This work Is often done neon,
In this country. Let the calls head boil carefully
for two hours and 4 half II should merely simmer
dlshed up the broth strained over 1t and served IN
a variety of ways ., . 49,. ,.-,.
ming should have already been stepped In cold
water for about one hour. and all the skinny mem
be lied in "A piece OF white mosquito netting or
checsecloth and dropped for ten minutes Into
salt a quarter OF "A cup OF vinegar. a bay leaf
and a sprig Of thyme have been added These
seasoning herbs not strictly essential, nut
they give that delicate flavor which is one or the
fine points OF superior cooking
The sweet bread commonly found In the throat or
the calf is not often sold with the head In city
markets. though Il IL part OF the head ana goes
with II in the country. where sweetheads are not
valued This OF course. when 1t Is found In the
throat. should be removed and cooked separately
Calls tongue Is usually cooked with the head
though IL makes a nice little entree by Itself and
is ant TO be overlooked when II Is left In the head
a delicious way OF serving these cooked pieces OF
head is with poulet sauce. This Is In exactly
Inc same way In which calls feet are cooked la
poulet Take a pint OF the liquid In which the
Calls head has been boiled add II TO three table
been mixed together In n frying pan. Put some
OF the pieces OF calls head In this. heat them up
hack Add the Juice of half lemon, the yolks OF
three eggs stirred first with little OF the not
sauce and a tablespoonful OF butter. Take up the
n5rces OF calf's head and dish them In pyramda.
form on a platter. Strain the sauce over then ana
enrinke a little minced parsley over the whole;
airs head is especially nice marinaded fried ana