Waterbury evening Democrat., 1894-06-11
GARDENS OF SIDON.
SCENES OF RARE BEAUTY IN THE OLD
 PHGNlClAN CITY.

Groves and Gardens-Ph9nicia as She
 Appears Today-The Dress of It's People. Their Garments and Their Arms.
 The dewdrops glittered in the light of the just rising sun, and the air was heavy with sweet odors of hundreds of orange and lemon trees with white blossoms. The scene was Q picture of marvellous fertility. Orange thickets, yellow and white with their double burden of fruit and flowers; lemon, apricot and fig trees, interspersed with tho more tropical palm and date, all growing in the greatest luxuriance. At times we saw the queer shaftlike leaves of tho banana, often 10 feet in length. An occasional mulberry orchard explained the presence of an en- terprising silk manufactory near by. Every few yards little brooks babbled along, the absolute essential of this lux uriance.
 It is not strange that this paradise oS flowers and fruit is much frequented by the inhabitants of the crowded, dirty town. No one can ride through these fair gardens and fail to perceive why the worship of the old Sidonians was so closely connected with the grove, and how from natures rich profusion about them they learned to worship the idea of fertility, which was the essence of their religion. The ancient Sidon, too, was not crowded down close by the sea, but was situated farther back in the plain, and thus was enriched by ring of em- erald.
 n f-l- -I-t. NR lNn 1NSNSs came to the catacombS of old Sidon. which have been excavated by the French. In the soft limestone rock cX- tend lGog series of connected chambers which lave contributed few rude statues, several sarcophagi and mum mics to the very few nementos which we have of that enterprising people who secured their alphabet in Egypt and carried 1t to Greece, and thus tra.:S- mitted, with certain changes, the letters with which we communicate our 10th century ideas. More of the psthetic art of Ph9nicia is to be seen today ill Athens than in all Palestine. There in the Mycen9 room one can see the richly inlaid daggCrs, the beautiful ornaments and the facsimiles of the beaten gold cups which were also manufactured by these artisans of oriental antiquity to grace the temple of Solomon at Jerusa- lem. Every ruin of that ancient world, whether in Phunicia or not, when laid bare bears ample testimony to the skill and enterprise of this Semitic nation of traders.
 Leaving these old tombs and the thoughts that they inspired, we were soon studying Phpnicia as she appears today. On our left extended tho Leba- non range, while in the distance rose Mount Herlnon, clad ill snow, glistening like Pentehcus marble in the midday sun. On tho right was the blue sea, in to which wo ere long took plunge Be- fore us the narrow bridle path extended, now through fertile although only half cultivated fields, now over q rocky prom ontory, which often juttel into the sea, HabitationS werc rare and generally huddled together for protection against the Arab incursions
 On the highways we often met these modern representatives and probable de scendants of the ancient Midianitcs Tall, muscular fellows, with the dark Semitic countcn2nce and black beard. (lttSl NI(Ll lAAc StIllNNA 'tbbtt, ~ S(i iI'tlt piece of goat hair cloth folded and sewed above the shoulders, the chief garment of the patriarrhs and the mantle of Eli iah the Tishhte. lndcrneath they Wore the kimbez. the long flowing tunic, which appeared when they threw back their abbas. About their heads was tight ly wrapped the silken kefiyeh, crowned with the two heavy goat hair coils, which encircled the tops of their heads like a large, black serpent. About the waist was tightly bound the girdle, adorned with huge, odd shaped knives. or. if he be a civilized Arab. with pistols.
 An ugly looking speor Is or 20 feet long completed the outfit. an outfit well calculated to engendcr green envy in the heart of an American cowboy. A little detour enabled us to visit tho black tents of kedar. tho abode of these perennial campers out. It is q rectangular edifce Is or 20 feet long, supported on poles which 10 or 50 centuries of inherited OK perience has taught them to skillfully place at exactly the right angle This palace of thicllly woven goat hair cloth is held in position by strong guy ropes. The sides arc raised or lowered at will, according to tho position of the sun or the direction of the wind.
 Within curtain separates the wom- ems apartment from the common re- ception room. The cooking outfit. like the dwelling, is characterized by its se- were simplicity, since fortunately tl,o Arab does not demand many course dinner. and long years of practice have taught him to dispense with a super fluity of dishes, which is generally more than one for family.-Chicago Inter Ocean.