The Dalles daily chronicle. [volume] (The Dalles, Or.) 1890-1948, 1894-02-07
AlQUEER COMBINATION.
The breakfast OF a Rounder After
q Night Out.
An Institution of Uncertain Origin Yet
Familiar to All vVaiters-Opinions
of Physicians on the Try
ing Mixture.

Take six men of the world-gent1e-
men, mean, of an all round social ex-
oerience, who have been unfortunate
enough to stay too long with their
liquor once in awhile-and probably
Eve of them will tell you what is meant
by the term ''drunkard's breakfast
says the New York Herald.
For the enlightenment of the sixth
member it may be explained that a
''drunkard'S breakfast" SO called in
many swell clubs and restaurants, con-
sists of salt mackerel, boiled, not
broiled; a dish of milk toast, and a pot
of strong, hot tea This is a repast
which is supposed to be peculiarly
adapted to the stomach of man who
permitted himself to be tempted to look
too promiscuously upon the wine the
night before.
Nv wife's absence from home COM
PEELED me to take my meals at the
restaurants recently. For my first
breakfast I went to one of the line
hotels in the immediate neighborhood.
The restaurant was chilly, and that,
added to a severe cold in my head,
must have given watery appearance
to nv eyes and nervous tremor to
myshand as / took a seat and picked up
a bill of fare. An obsequious waiter
stood at hand to receive my order. |
ran over the list of meats a second
time, pausing, mentally, midway 'twix
steak and a chop. The waiter,
noting my indecision, but utterly mis-
taking the spirit behind it all, stepped
to my side and with perfect politeness
said: "Eef may be permit, recciIiii-
mem re salt mackere1, wis ze meell1
toast and re tea-ver' nice. 1t eez ze
breakfast popular wis gentlemen after
re excitement of ze long night"
The fellow had actually recommend
ed drunlzard's breakfast for my con-
dition, although as a matter of fact I
hadn't taken drink in year and q
half
0Next morning went into another
restaurant near by-not exactly first
class place, but an extraordinarily
good Second-class one-where the busi-
ness is enormous, the cooking excel
lent and the service generally salts
factory. My eyes were bloodshot and
watery still, the result of a neuralgic
attack. The waiter, a decorous, hand
some German-American, handed me
the bill of fare, eyed me suspiciously,
but not rudely, for an instant and
then remarked in an undertone: GLOW
would a nice salt mackerel, boiled,
plate of milk toast and pot of tea
suit you this morning? That is what
many of our patrons order for break
fast after they have been out late.
Much better than cocktails, 1 assure
you.'
There was no impertinence in the
mans voice or manner. He didn't
dream of being intrusive. He merely
thought he was doing me a friendly
service in suggesting a regular brac-
ing ''drunkard's breakfast -
The same suggestion will be offered
in many first-claSs restaurants to any
man whose appearance or manner in
any way eXcites the suspicion that he
drank too much the night before. The
hint is always offered politely and
quietly, and only after the waiter has
convinced himself that his purpose in
making the suggestion will not be mis-
understood.
And thus, in some mysterious way,
it has come to be believed among res
taurant walters that for man who
has had a long drinking bout the COR
rect breakfast should consist of salt
maclzerel, milk toast and teal It is an
extraordinary combination, surely,
and why it is peculiarly adapted to
the condition of man recovering
from a spree is as mysterious as the
identity of the genius who first pro-
posed it.
A popular physician who was spoken
to with reference to this fad said:
Eyes, 1 know what a 'drunkard's
breakfast is, but why any man suffer
ing from over-indulgence in drink
should eat such meal is more than
can tell. Salt macLerel is harsh, acrid,
hot and irritating to an already con-
gested stomach. 1 can think of no
article of food more likely to increase
the digestive disorders due to drink
than salt mackerel.'
Another physician of long practice
and wide observation said: ''It would
be interesting to know how and with
whom the 'drunkard's breakfast origi-
mated. 1t is ridiculous idea. None
but normal stomach in healthy con-
dition can digest a salt mackerel with
out discomfort, or at least unpleasant
reminders of its presence. 1t is a fish
that am very fond of, but if eat Of
it even after drinking moderately il
causes an attack of indigestion. My
only theory of its supposed popularity
as a breakfast dish for one who has
taken a drop too much is this: Its salti-
ness excites thirst for great quantities
of cold water, which is, in my opinion,
of real benefit to stomach fevered
with alcoholic irritation. 1t enables
him to drink water copiously until the
stomach is cleaned and cooled, and the
alcohol in his tissues becomes SO di-
1uted that it is the more easily elimi-
mated from his system. As for its ali
mentary value in such cases, can't
see that it has any. The milk toast
would be all right but salt maclxere1