Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-08-25

advantage. They know also how to wear
the brightest colors, indeed such tints
seem created for these joyous and charm
Ing creatures. 1 never saw such an abund-
ance Of fresh. lovely and varied faces.
Music In the Parks.
Rome resembles our larger cities in many
ways, for instance, in the regular public
music at the parks. of which the Pincio
gardens take the leal. During these hot
evenings the municipal and various mill
tary bands play also in the central square
of the city-Piazza Ceionna. Here gather
together milllonaires and tradesmen. prin-
cosses and servants. When there is music
at the Pincio the coacousse is large and
stylish, reminding one of itnose at the Presi-
Gents grounds in Wss:lington. ii 1'incio Is
charming park situa red on the hill OF
that name-one of Rome's immortal seven
whereon is located the old palace of the
"Medici," the prison house OF Calico. The
position commands Il superb view of st.
Peters and all that portion of Rome near
the Pantheon. The park is full of beauty
and interest. There thriyes the luXuriant
vegetation of the tropics. as web as the
sturdy life of the far north: there the palm
and cactus shoot out their marvellous leaves
and pines from Norway fairly revel under
Italy's sun, bearing enormous cones as
thick as bananas on the bunch.
A most attractive feature of the Pincio
is the vast number of fower-bearing trees.
1t seems as though every tree was orna-
me1ted, now cones, now berries, now flow
ers. In addition to it's unrivaled position,
balmy air. poetic gardens and groves, tie
Pincio possesses charm in it's vast array
of marble statuary There are numerous
graceful figuraS. groups and Sculptured
fountains. but above ali there are several
hundred marble busts mounted on short
pillars. of Italy's great departed ones. These
likenesses, executed by able artists, consti-
tute an ever-present company Of genius.
Here is the VigaOn of Dante. with fyiOttO
and Marco Polo at his right and left: Pom
pey ana Caesar are side by side: ReiIini and
Rcssini, Garibaldi end Napoleon the Great
Petrarch and Tasso. the De Medici. and
many moro from the time of Virgil to the
day of Cavour.
The Dinner Hour.
On musical evenings the Pincio is full of
animation, its winding walks and shaded
aisles are crowded with vivacious pleasure
seekers AT 7:20 the park music ceases.
and the gathered throngs descend to the
city, some to join the moving masses on the
Corso, others leisurely vending their way
toward home and dinner Dinner time
ranges from to 10 among the real Roman
people; outsiders ana foreigners generally
dine earlier. This meal is fun of unconcern
and joliity; all cares, unpieasantnesses and
eighty thoughts are completely cast aside.
A Roman family with relatives and guests,
fern n most hospitable gathering, and in
freedom and simplicity are like party of
children.
The various viands are partaken of with
keen relish and appreciation. During the
little delays OF table these admirably bal
anced people do not become impatient. but
continue completely wrapped up in the sub
1ect OF conversation. Discussions are sys-
tc:naucally avoided, but mere exchange of
opinions on light subject may become
exceedingly active am effervescent. The
italian is easily aGitated, and readily finds
the extremes Of the voice in conversation:
not TO speak of spasmodic gestures and
movements, in which the whole body may
participate. L frequently witness little
scenes in restaurants and tayerns which
bring to mind the father act' in Hazel
Kirke The diSputng companions may be
heard half square away, as standing up
around The table they scream and resticu-
late, with such ferccioas co,Intenances that
occ expects to see blood flow the next mo-
nent. B'lt 40. in brief time they sink
back into their seats hlan5ly smoking as
though nothing had OCCURRED
The ssin OF Fare.
To return to the evening meal; il pranzo.
or dinner. is often commenced with sar-
dimes. ham, or sonnethin of that sort before
serving the national frst course. which is
either soup a 6ish of meccherori or rice
After substantial courses of fish. meat etc
come the invar;able cheese and fruit
fayorite cheese-Ciorgopzola is Of the kind
termed pizzicGnte. the sound OF the word
alcne almos. speaks its meaning. which Is
"flipninC" or Din ching. referring to the bit
ing effect of the cheese on the palate 1t Is
a quality of which. especially when well
aged, the more you est the more wine yo;
want TO drink. If the wine is only pure
and yc1r taste not vitiated. you are all
right; at least. so the Italians saw and
YOU can fearlesslv eat and drink as much
as YOU please. NV experience leads me to
think that healthy palate Is q very rare
possession: that verv few can discriminate
between the n ost delicious things and those
which merely have the name. As for me- I
would be delighted to happen in for dinner
tomorrow at a well-to-do Maryland farm
tho Cafe Roma
Coffee following cheese with such regu-
!artv they become in thought related
Lamentshlv enough II Is the same story
with coffee in Rome rs with wine there be-
Inc hut a half-dozen cafes where the pure
article can he had When II comes to Java
Mocha or Guatemala. they are simply I'M
obtainahle: Porto Rico. however is used
and makes pretty fair cup IT cafe nero
when mixed with another growth and II is
this quality that Is generally served in p,lh-
lie and private houses. At rare intervals n
dish OF pastry or cake appears The Italians
care very little for "swents." nreferrine
fruit. When a cake or pudding does come
rpon the table 1t Is almost sure sign Of a
birthday or some great festival, and is the
signal for special tolliacation
The night Is dav In Rome tn vast num-
ber of paople who never think of retiring
before midnirht. and rega rd I or am. as
n regular bedtime hour. MANY are content
and thrive on FIVE hours sleen. The late
hours after dinner are regularly nassed IN
The cafes by manv gentlemen. There much
business is promoted and political moves
planned In summer time concert cafes
eDrin@ rp In all parts Of the CITY, which are
resorted to nv the Younger naonle The
evening is snent listening to French and
Niennese VARIETY singers. now end then sup
nlemented nv American minstrels The fin
est oDera houses and theaters are closed
during the hot months.
We Cannot Fly.