davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
IN SOLITUDE.

This is an expensive distemper, for I
know women who spoil new gloves
simply in one wearing. For this use
magnesia. Get in square blocks and
rub II thoroughly into the skin before
pulling on the glove. Vigorously adj
hered to, the effect is entirely desir-
able.
Iuere are small diseases of the nails
also to be considered.
One of ridges. These form length
Wis on fhA NAN. quite s-0iling the
shape. This is due to weakness and
can be "amateurIy" treated by con-
slant use of the nail polisher dipped in
pink enamel powder, for the cause is
due to weakness and this method
Strengthens.
Another trouble is an aggravating
splitting Of the nail. Just to run it
rapidly through the hair or over a
piece cloth tends to take the entire
edge OFF down to the level of the finger.
For this there is a tonic that IS put up
by manicurists, but they again advo-
cate the friction of channels skin as
the most helpful application.
H HAIIMAR K
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

Mr.. southern's company. The leading
lady is she in a company playing
repertoire, that accounts for her elab-
crate wardrobe.
Take at random this trio. And bear
in mind that they are designed for
graceful, svelte figure, with fair skin,
silky dark brown hair, and large dark
hazel eyes.
A beautiful carriage toilet has for the
! foundation Of the dress a pale silvery
| willow-green tinge in silk with raised
cords between every half dozen threads
of the gros grain, and between every
two of the self-colored stripes thus
| made in the pattern there are two pale
pink coral threads-the effect being Pc
culiarly elegant. There is a foot band
of green velvet over which is laid a
vine patterned band of yeilowed lace
| Three pointed bands of the same ex-
tend from the waist line on the skirt
| the middle one reaching not quite to
| the knees, being longer than the one
on either side. The bodice. which ends
at the waist line. is covered with ye,-
| lowed lace entire; the sleeves are of
the Bengaline like the skirt There is a
stock of green velvet, and another Of
| chiffon over it, both with pulled OUT
| loops under each ear, and wide band
of the velvet is caught in the centre Of
the bust line, again at each arms eye
under a large "boT-knot' across the
| front. and then is carried out onto each
sleeve to the elbow, where it is caught
under a large bow. and also helps to
drape the full sleeves. Two narrow
bands of the lace over velvet pass from
/ the bust to meet at the waist line
where the middle skirt band begins
and there are up-turned pointed bands
on the forearm. A narrow twisted band
of the velvet outlines the waist
The hat is very large and f1aring. in
| keeping with the slightly trained far
| ing skirt; it is of white velvet with
green velvet bows and white ostrich
feathers, with a hair trimming Of the
velvet under the left front.
| A symphony in yellow is developed N
! q ball gown that makes the We9rer
| look like the Spirit Of the Goldenrod. OF
which she carries a long loose cluster,
which later in the season might well
| be replaced with ionnu,s. yellow
striped MORE is made into TIE body,
1 and the demi-trained skirt with the
stripes running round the body in front
and in VS. at the back. The decollete
! bodice is trimmed with a full double
| rllffie of cloud-liile yellow chiffon which
| also forms the immense elbow sleeves
! that are mass of drapery. The chif-
fon is set on the skirt a the waist line
and falls away in long iobot-,i6e folds
from each hip ending in 4. point far
| down on the skirt, and another breadth
starting farther back il carried down
on the side of the train and caught
with large rosette of the same Gold
| sDangled guipure forms three Ion g
pointed bands on the front of the MORE
skirt and a corselet on the body ending
in MANY upturned points. The iabot-
folds Of the chiffon on the skirt are also
outlined with gold sp9neles, and there
is a closely twisted gird!e of the chit
fon.
Another dream Of a party frocl is
an ivory India silk brocaded with but
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

pie. AT most, there is a delicate trac-
cry of gold about the rim, and the
shape preferred resembles half an egg
shell, set with the rounding end upon a
slender stem. This, in regulation COB
let size, is placed for water, but a. third
smaller is for champa gne. Sherry is
served in a glass of the same shape,
but much smaller, and yet little lar
ger than the smallest of all glasses,
those of the liqueurs. The liaueur
glasses are not set upon the table, but
are passed after the coffee is served
with the decanteTs each guest helping
himself from the decanter he prefers. 1t
is oftenest of the shape of a clay pipe
bowl. and but two or three times lar
ger than a tafnlble
1 Where champagne is served and no
other wine, a small plain tumbler is Of
ten used one with straight, sloping
sides, without stem. 1t is no longer
thought TO be good form to load a
table with glasses. Three or four are
put on at first, and others are ordered
as they are wanted.
Wine glasses, by the way. should be
| lifted by the stem daintily with the fin
gers, when there is a stem, and not
grasped about the bowl or clutched
with the fist, as many people, who
should know better, still do.
White wines are all preferred cold.
Red wines are served Of the tempsra-
tture Of the room. Some connoisseurs
elect to have them stand on mantle
above a wood fire to infuse into them
just the right spirit. Bordeaux more
commonly called elareD is iced by
some people, to the horror of epicures.
Fine wines, and others not under con-
sideration, are to be slipped, not gulped,
in order that their aroma and flavor
may be enjoyed. The reason for the
introduction of the white glass eX-
clusively is that the color of the wine
may be enjoyed as it cannot be in tint
ed vessels.
Cld Burgundy and Bordeaux form
more or less sediment. If shaken in
their bottles this implrts a harsh taste
to the wine. To prevent this the bot
ties that are to be served should be
stood I'D for the twenty-four hours pre-
vlcus: when the time comes for serving
they may be inclined upon the side in
a basket for the purpose and poured by
the servant, who handles the basket as
if it were made of sponge glass. Or
they may be decantered in clean decan-
tiers. slowly fitting the bottles and pour
ing off The clear wine, leaving the sedf-
ment and a little wine in the bottle. Set
Ia candle light behind the bottle when
ldecantsring, and stop pouring when the
ffmy threads or webs appear in the
wine. u. ,.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

times brocaded quite as gorgeously
as some Of the new silks. Indeed
chiffons were never seen before in such
vast profusion and variety; but a
proper foundation is certainly one of
the most important points in their
making up Distinct contrasts in color,
between the cloud-like draperies and
silk on satin foundations, are much in
favor, and wonderful opaline effects,
as elusive as moonbeams themselves,
are made by mounting one color over
another to the number of three and
four, and even six.
FOR OLDER WOMEN.
But along with these dashing novel
ties in brocade and gauze, there are
entire evening gowns in velvet and
satin. and occasionally one of silk,
such as was spoken Of in our mother
day as standing alone"
The skirts of many of these are
made after the French circular model,
which hangs very full about the feet.
A few have suspicion OF a train.
Others are only slightly longer and all
are without the wire braid Of the
Paquin street garment.
A pleasing feature of numbers OF
tiese skirts is their absolute plainness,
but the four illustrations here shown
give some of the latest Partisan hints
for effective trimming and draping.
DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The first gown of the series is en-
tirely of pale pink velvet, with q tab
Her drapery Of white lace and decora-
tons of real swallows. The bodice
whose square, untrimmed neck line is
the quintessence of simplicity buttons
at the left side, and the lace drapery
is finished at the back with long
strings, that tie II the waist in smart
punching bow,
An enchanting confection in change
able green and white satin, and which
is shown in the foreground of the group
drawing, has skirt and bodice decora-
fionS of butter-colored lace, and q
blouse vest of liZard-green chiffon. A
narrow belt of emerald passementerie
finishes the waist; and here, as in the
other two models, the bulging effect
of the short, pulled sleeves is made by
cutting the material straight across
the top and putting the curved and
chief fullness at the sides.
The costume next this beautiful
skirt, with its graduating Van Dyke
points, is of heavy white silk with
black tulle, jet and lace trimmings.
The fourth and last CONNECTION. how
ever. is, with its little air of piquant
dignity. the most fetching of them ALL
Pale maize satin, as thick as the pro-
verbal board. amethyst velvet, white
lace and white chiffon, composed the
divine original of this model.
Together with the other toilets ex-
pressed, it may be accepted by tall,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

towel. This gives the desired length
and prevents hang-nails."
The statement was made by man
icure specialist, o. l sat in her artistic
rooms or rather reciined on the low
cushioned seats, amid a bewildering
vista of Japanese lanterns, bamboo
screens, gorgeous show cases and we'll
concealed appointments
This pressing down of the cuticIe is
essential for weII-shaped nails. If the
oneration produces any raggeflness a
keen psir of scissors should clip it off.
The scissors. the manfcurist insists,
must be of careful selection. The pair
that does service for clipping thread
or cloth will ruin the skin. The points
should be very fine to insert under this
hem of the nail.
As cold weather approaches women
try to devise means for preventing
hands and Eps from chs rring An
excellent remedy to prevent chapping
! is cold cream The n1anicurist told
me that it also whitens the skin more
than any preparation. 1t has taken
the place of the old-time remedy
mutton-suet. 1t should be well rubbed
INTO the skin end "'ov5e-prafe-q hIv
white-slipped on. The palms of the
gloves should be slit in several places
iO dllOW the ar ana preVeleL cr9rnD OF
the muscles, and the finger tips clipped
off
Vaseline should never be allowed
| to touch the hands. 1t turns the skin
yellow 9nd leaves a stain on the nails
that is hard to clear away.
In winter cold water should be used
sDaringly. Its action roughens the
skin unpleasantly. Tepid water with a
very few drops of household ammonia
land good lather of CASTLE or borax
soap is advisable. If the hands are
inclined to redness. the trouble lies in
the way of circulation, and slight
gymnastics will relieve it.
To remove stains from the skin or
nails use few drops of oxalic acid in
water, making the solution extremely
mild This should be rubbed under
! and about the nails with tiny ash
stick, which comes for the purpose at
tho -~rst Of cents.
Many women are worried by a con-
r'art tar1epov TO prosptra freely in
the palms, which ruins their gloves.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
STUBBORN MAN.
George VnnderviIt's Revenge Upon
az Obstinate North Carolina Far
rslcP.

New York. Nov. 17.-Even million
who has been paying out 1000 a
month down at Biltmore, n. c.. where
his magnificent house is going up,
awolle one morning to find himself in
very much the same position as was
Ahab of old when he set his heart on
his neighbours vineyard. George Van
derbiit has set his heart on his neigh
bor's six acres of land. They are not
fruitful or particularly fair; but they
lay between the ground that he had al
ready purchased, and these six acres
ne determined to add to his large prop
erty But, you know the old adage,
Man proposes" etc, and George Van
derbilt felt the truth of it to his own
sorrow
The worthy owner of the six acres
was approached. 1t was poor land,
yielding little or nothing, which he
could not have sold for $50 under or
binary circumstances. But when
George Vanderbilt desired it, its value
Immediately rose. Ten thousand dollars
was the modest sum put upon it. Mr.
Vanderbilt SAID he would pay $1,000
a pretty penny for that land; but the
owner refused. He was then offered
$1,000, but this was also spurned. The
next Offer was Still more Elun-Hcent-
The owner possessed team of oxen
with which he worked the farm, and
Vaderbilt now raised his offer to $500,
and as an additional inducement, Of
fered to employ the man and his team
| for So day until his house should
have been completed. and after that to
buy the team for 5000. He also agreed
to give regular employment to the
mans daughter.
But, no; it was all in vain. Ten
thousand dollars or nothing. This OBJ
stinacy aroused the just ire of the mil
lionaire, and he proceeded to execute
swift and righteous vengeance upon
/ the obdurate farmer. a we'll seventy
feet high is now building about the six
acres. When completed it will be
painted black, so as to be unobtrusive
as possible Mr.. Vanderbilt will also
proceed to draw the water Of a Wen
which supplies the farm, so that the
six acres will be practically worthless.
Now the man is offering to sell at any
of the prices named, or less, but Van
derbilt declares that he would not take
it for a hundred dollars
EVA SCHUBERT.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

She no longer relies on others to pro-
vide these for her.
An hour of waiting when a train has
been missed or a friend is late, should
De accepted, not as a time of enforced
;dleuess and Impotence, but as an OPP
portUnity in which to think and 10
plan for future accomplishment.
One little woman confided to me how
she taught herself the usefulness of
solitude.
She was not strong, either in nerve
or body and hours of quiet, free from
all distraction of sight or sound were
required to keep her even physically
comfortable. She first sought solitude
as an animal when it goes off alone to
die, and she lugged all her pains ana
woes along with her In her fatigue
every evil thing she could think of
would array itself against her, like a
definite foe, until it came to her that
she would put aside every thing pain
full, and shut it all out. with sweet
remembrance by trying to realize all
the pleasant plans and people and
things she had ever known.
The presence in her mind Of past
happiness sweetened her heart and her
nature Powered like q rose garden, her
health improved and she said smilingly
that she had swept out of the shadow
into the sunshine, through the blessing
of solitude"
FLORENCE WYNNE ELLES.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

dinner, supper, When not? But wine
connoisseurs have critical palates for
several other wines.
Those who were serving but two va
rieties should begin with good Rhine
wine as Chablis, and follow it with
champagne. For a dinner of several
courses the order might we'll be as fo,-
lows: With the oysters, Chablis; soup,
sherry; fish, hook; reeves, Bordeaux !;
entrees, champagne; game, burgundy;
with the sweets, Madeira; and after the
coffee, iqueurs; the latter ire generals
~ brandy and at least one other, as
chartreuse or benedietiDe.
tColored glasses and those of fantas-
tie shapes are no longer used on elegant
tables. Pure white and a perfectly
plain style, is preferred by many pao-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
A NERVE TONIC.
An Hours Solitude Eachs Day Helps
Busy Woman over Many a
Rough Road in Life.

New York, Nov. 17.-To be alone for
a few hours of every day should be a
fixed habit in a weman's life. There is
a deal OF benefit to be acquired from
short session of solitude, snatched amid
the toll and struggle of daily existence.
1t is due ones selfhood, and once be-
hind closed doors. the family, friends
and servants should be educated to
respect the temporary seclusion.
! Make yourself physically comfortable.
| Stretch yourself upon your couch, let
the tired nerves down from their usual
| tension. 1t is well to sleep a little, but
| do not make an effort for repose, Just
! let 60 anent fall to idle musing. child
fashion, if you will. When perfect rest
ensues in the peace and stiffness, call
yourself to order in the solitude of
your own chamber, through this sacred
hour you may review yourself, your
| character. your environment, your eff
forts and results, without fear of criti-
/ CisGn other than your own Do this
healthily and happily, not mOrbidly.
Review your immediate past and pres
ent as you would reckon your accounts
/ up q date then muster your forces as
/ d general would his army. in this way
! you will be enabled TO steady your pur-
poses and think out the difficult paths
| that lead to the results you so much
desire to accomplish.
1t is in this precious time alone that
a woman may get individuality. orig
inality, strength, decision. directness.
sterling qualities out in the maelstrm
of the world life; for stir. self con-
sciousness. and the influence Of others
often defect a woman from her pur-
/ pose. unless she has acquired stead
fastness of resolve as a principle
Even in material matters, if puzzled
over a bit of work, put it aside for the
hour of solitude, then it will probably
open up it's own method of completion
to you, having your undivided atten-
ton. The proper use of solitude teach
es a woman independence, she has
pleasure and profit within herself and
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
JOCELYN DAVIES
SERVING WINE.
Etiquette TO &c Observed by the
Hostess Who Pours Wine Mt Her
Table.


New York, Nov. lin the matter of
serving wines alone lies a good deal of
the success or failure of the tout en-
semble of an elegant dinner The host
ess who elects to pour wines at her
table shcuid at least take pains to
have them cater to the best taste,
otherwise they mar instead Ct enhanc-
ing the repast.
The fashionable authority in this
country on banqueting, Mr.. Louis
Sherry. was waylaid by the writer the
other day upon his return from Europe
and asked for his opinion with regard
to the serving of wines. ''Tha ten
dency," he said, SIS to serve few and
better wines. and Americans have SO
decided a liking for champagne that
they drink it a. all times, fer luncheon,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

New York, Nov. 17.-In the splendid
old days of patch and powder Of high
heels and rouge and stately brocade,
when the fashion for mounting the
hair on vast cushions came in, the
sedan chair that took Belinda to the
rout underwent also a change.
Its roof has raised a pair of feet at
least and rved into dome to ac-
commodate nor towering top-knot; and
today it seems almost as if long dead
Ralinda's sweet descendant must soon
need wings added to her carriage. in
order that her ever growing sleeves
and many gored skirt may likewise
travel to The dance in unrued excel
lence.
RICHLY FLoWERED STUFFS.
Some of the new evening brocades.
which, we are told, are soon to take the
place of the more matronly moires, are
enchanting revelations. In texture
they seem created TO endure longer
than life itself: and, together with new
and novel designs, are seen many of
the dainty patterns of the long ago.
One with cold white background,
is StreWn with wreathS or magenta
pink roses. tied with ribbons of the
game Shade. Another is shown with
little foolish rOsebUdS, red, with stiff
stems and green leaves, like the dec
Orations on old Dresden china powder
boxes.
Still another has a tea-white back
ground. that tender and adora BILE shade
Of pinkwhite only made by pouring
milk into the most perfect of teas.
This was scattered with loose hcu-
quets of Cosmos flowers; which mystic
Iious blossoms. in velvet, and rich
wall-fiower tiuts, garlauded the low,
square. tea-waite gauZe waist.
FEATURES OF THE COSTUMES.
The short sleeves of this bodice, than
which nothing seemed more elaborate
or more becoming, were of accordion
plating gauze. mounted over satin in
full puffs, and which had the down
ward and outward droop that NOW dis
tingGiShes all sleeves.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
n..rrEr OF MONEY.
TFrom the Detroit Free Press.l

[Fron the DetroLt Free Press.J
Jaac-so you have. accepted that old
millionaire?
Frou-Frou-Yes de4r.
Jane-Why didn't.you give the old
thing the mitten?
Frou-Froll-Be 1 hadn't one.
DON'T you know, I'm so poor I couldn't
buy mitten. if AN were ceiling al "a
cent a ton.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

splendid ilk. come diaphanous textiles
Of every color and description, to be
fashioned into the upper garment.
The stiff rustling silk or satin of the
pompadour petticoat never repeats It.
self in the bodice, this being made ex-
clusively in chiffon. mousseiine de sole,
crepe. and even tulle, either plain,
jeweled or spangled. Chiffon waists
for plain skirts, however, are some
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

Below the left bust line was a strik-
ing and sonlbre note in all this truly
gaiety; three large Cosmos blossoms
in sooty-black satin, trailing heavily
from the colored corsage bouquet.
They were there, however. with
motive intent. Black. it seems IN bold,
brief touches in unexpected quarters.
is a winter punctuation for some of
fashions most delicate compositions
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
fair. may wear her corsage literally
tumbling from thin shoulders.
Gilt, c.r1,N-r
SUIT ALL STYLES.

Bones. if sufficiently we'll hung and
endowed with that youthfulness be-
loved of painters, can never offend
but flesh is a thing to be handled with
discretion, and a round, baby bodice
is a young and becoming bridging of
some of its difficulties.
To be worn with the brocade skirts
described, as well as those of quite as
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

teraies. There are two tiny ruffles about
the foot of the gown which falls in
Empire style from girdle of silver
and crystal well up under the bust, and
trails off into a bit of a train. The
back is semi-watteau, and the drap-
cry of the decollete neck which is round
and low on the shoulders is cloud
mass Of wild rose pink chiffon, which
also forms the sleeves. These are very
long and are gathered on the inner
seam to make them a mass of soft
folds about the arm its entire length.
There is an indescrioable Partisan
chicness about these and the other
gowns in this wardrobe which, alas,
there is not room to describe, and
rare combination they are of tine sorS
that artists delight in, with flowing
lines and the effect of volumlnous arap-
cries that but enhance and do not
shroud the figure.
DINA sSTURGIS.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18
NOT ALWAYS THUS.

[From the Detroit Free Press.1
Hinks-Before L married my wife !
thought she was an angel.
Dinks-And afterward?
Hinks-I knew she was.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-11-18

slight figures as infallioly becoming,
and as affording the best possible ideas
as to what French women of the haute
monde are now wearing.
NINA FITCH.