Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1894-02-02
THEY WORE MANTILLAS.
COSTUM OF THE LADIES OF
OLD CALIFORNIA.
The Hidaigos OF the Pacific Slope Were
as Naughty rs They Had Been In
Spain Household Furniture Brought
From the Mother Country.

of the present century will, no doubt.
be = matter of interest and even
curiosity to the American ladies OF
this. the latter half There were no
dressmakers nor milliners in Cal
ifornia, yet the ladies Of this prov
ince dressed more stylishly and pref
tily than they do at present The
daughters of the hidalgos and
the dons understood both plain
and fine sewing and the
art Of dress-itting. Some of their
prettiest gowns were the handiwork
Of the senoritas, who prided them
selves upon their artistic work and
originality of design. The evening
dress was Of green, blue or yellow
silk or white lawn skirt over red
flannel petticoat. beautiful COM
bination, contrasting very prettily
with the dark olive tint complexion
of the Spanish beauty. The sleeves
were very short, If they may be styled
sleeves, and the shapely arms were
covered with transparent lace, but
more frequently they were bare, es-
pecially if full rounded. The waists
were loose, corsets being unknown
TO them
A sash of red, blue, green or a
combination OF colors, extended from
the right shoulder across the bust to
the left waist. whero it was looped in
a double or lovers knot Some wore
the sash around the waist as belt
Their shoes were white satin, and
sometimes of other colors. A thin
gold band, surmounted with a star in
front, or other design, was worn
around the head of luxuriant black
hair that hung in wild confusion over
the neck, or done up in long braids,
tied with vari-coloUed ribbons The
senoras or married ladies wore the
hair rolled up in masses over silver
combs, studded with crosses or stars.
The ordinary costume was, of
course, of palmer material and the
shoes were OF dserskin, tanned and
made to order by some of the Indian
slaves attached to the gran casa.
They did not uso cosmetics, but the
Californian or MeI'ican ladies sparing-
ly used a powder of rice in order to
rival the pure white or olive-tinted
complexion of the blue blooded
Spanish ladies. 70 helghten the
complexion they wore a short white
lace veil of the richest texture,
gossamer-like, through which could
be seen the fire OF passion flashing
in their dark, lustrous eyes. They
tabooed bonnets, but protected the
complexion with q mantle, charitably
large enough to do awas with a sun
shade. The mantle was part of the
costume and harmonized in color and
texture. For home wear a small
scarf or large neckerchief, was
thrown over the head or about the
shoulders.
They formed an exclusive set,
from which even the children of the
Spaniard who had intermarried with
the Mexican was excluded, accord
ing TO the Philadelphia Times. 1t
was not in good form for members of
the upper class, the pure Spanish, to
intermarry with the lower or Next
can class Mexican society was also
divided into several grades-the
rich and poor, official. etc, Only a
few families of the original Spanish
dons now remain in California They
are as exclusive as were their PROUD
and wealthy hidalgo ancestors.
The wealthy grandees who came
over from Spain in colonies to settle
In New Spain" brought with their
customs their household goods and
elastic charters or grants for lands.
The wealthy brought along their
old. fashioned bedsteads of highly
polished brass, which were curtained
with bright colored satin. Some o.
these cost $500 and some $1,000
They were handed down to their
descendants Of the present, who
treasure these heirlooms beyond
price. There remain a few specimens
Of pillow-slips, counterpanes, etc, of
the days OF the grandees The pillow
slips are masses of embroidery of
many designs-the work of the sem
oritas, who, wearied of the paseo 10
campo (picnicJ, bale or horseback
riding, would ply the needle as a
pastime.
The needlework in these articles is
exquisite, and shows to the greatest
advantage when placed over a lining
of pink or blue cambria. The toilet
towels were marvels Of beauty-they
were embroidered at each end about
foot in depth and fringed.
In the morning an Indian slave
served coffee, or chocolate, at about
o'clock; at 10 breakfast was served; ;
at 2, luncheon; at 5, dinner, and at
p m, tea.
After dinner, or after luncheon, it
was the custom for the senoras to
indulge in a smoke-not very quiet,
but seasoned with a little gossip.
Each lady would have in front, with
in easy reach. small silver vase
filled with Goals. from which to light
her cigarette, which was invariably
highly perfumed. Unmarried ladies
were not permitted to join in these
slestas, except in rare cases when
they were unusually chic, or were,
perhaps relegated to the shelf as old
maids. They sat on ottomans in the
Oriental style. After the siesta,
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