The Washington times., 1894-07-22
Artistic Dressing
On M0d6rafe Means.

The etiquette Of dress has come to be q fine
art, and its foundation principle is fitness. A
knowledge OF the rules OF this art tends
greatly to simplify the routine OF life, which
in these days is somewhat complicated.
To begin with, the first dresses common to
the race, the berufied and overturned gar
msnts of babyhood that once were considered
indispensable to n weli-born child, are Eow
discarded, and plain and simple garments
hand made, and as fine as may be-. are con-
sidered In the best taste. Little girls and
young girls are kept simply dressed in frocks
devoid Of much trimming; the expense and
care arc bestowed on the cut and material,
which, however, need not be costly. Young
girls In society do not wear trains, or
heavy velvets, or brocades, nor do they
wear diamonds nor costly jewels to any
great extent; their youth and freshness
are their best ornaments. White is the
| popular device for ''buds," as the youngest
| girls are called, for evening wear. For shop
| ping and morning wear plain cloth costumes
are worn with small hat or bonnet. For the
street the various shades OF brown, tan, grays,
| or other inconspicuous colors are preferred;
no jewelry is displayed except that for obvious
| use, such as pin, cuff buttons. or collar but
| ton. To array ones self in silk attire of gay
| color and loud design, in earrings, bracelets,
-
call IL to stamp ones self person of bad
taste and as lacking knowledge Of the proper
thing.
perfect, simple costume. plainly made, but
as good in cut, finish. style and material
as the means will allow, with low, broad
heeled boots, gloves the shade OF the dress,
hair close and neat, and a general appearance
of trim, taut close-reefed little ship, Is the
best possible get-up for any woman anywhere
be she on pleasure bent or shopping, or mar
keting, during the morning hours. In the
afternoon more latitude is allowed, and big
hats. silk, velvet and cloth, and u more dressy
attire is in order.
For women of moderate means it Is never
In good taste to appear on the street or in
public in conspicuous gown, bonnet, hat.
or any other conspicuous article OF wearing
apparel Quiet colors, indefinite designs,
medium styles are the most appropriate;
every one knows how bright colored dress.
hat or wrap will mark a person il she is
obliged to wear it constantly. Women who
possess carriages can dress in gayer apparel
than their poorer sisters. who must always
be in the glare OF sunlight, exposed 10 its
searching rays. In calling, bonnet is con-
sidered more formal and appropriate than a
hat; especially in making a first call one
should don their best and smartest gown,
gloves and bonnet. A pretty cloth or other
wool costume is appropriate for calls and
afternoon teas, with pair Of light gloves.
Gloves should never be the brightest or
most conspicuous feature of the costume; il
they are, every one sees. first and last and all
the time, the hands, which should be subor-
dinate to the rest Of the toilet. For years the
many tones Of tan. russell. reds and grays
have prevailed, and one is always safe in get
ting pair of tan colored gloves. French
women always get their gloves little larger
than necessary, as there is nothing more awk-
ward than hand squeezed into too tight
fitting glove.
The undressed kid gloves are the most
fashionable for calls for evening or any full
dress occasion, but for morning wear it is
scarcely possible TO tell Jill's gloves from
Jacks, as they are both of dark-red, heavy
kid, with two big buttons for clasps. Also
the boots are more masculine, lower larger
buttons and heels.
Wedding gowns are always cut high or
having the neck filed i'll with tulle, and with
long sleeves, the palmer the better, for these
gowns are not as others are; they are set
apart for solemn occasion, and therefore
should conform to the nature of the event.
II the wedding dress is of heavy material.
such as white velvet. satin or brocade, a long
train is stately and appropriate, but If of tulle
or any thin texture. a short train is preferred.
Whenever possible bride should be married
in white, even if of the simplest fabric. A
widow cannot wear it at her second wedding.
tulle veil is more becoming and just rs ap-
propriate as lace one.
Although woman may. a man must never
wear dress clothes at a day wedding.
The regulation Prince Albert coat and gray
trousers and pearl gloves are now. as usual
the correct costume. Only matrons and
elderly women wear entire dresses of velvet: it
is for dowagers. When attending luncheons
women do not remove their Donnets, which
are usually small affairs and dressy. Gloves
are removed at the table. Trains are not
Ill n-4r e.
older women upon formal occasions, girls and
young women seldom wearing them.
Discrimination is observed in the selection
of dress material for young girls or matrons. |
For the latter heavier. richer style and de- |
sign is employed. Young girls wear lighter, |
gayer, and less expensive fabrics, with guam |
titles of ribbon and lace. The tea gown,
which is more or less wrapper, is only worn |
very informally.
Wrappers are not good form for breakfast |
table anywhere, and are never worn at public |
tables or when visiting. The veil covers the |
entire face. and is most worn in black or |
black and white; plain tulle, the color OF the |
dress or hat, is also worn. At afternoon re-
ceptions one does not wear full dress-tha is |
reserved for evenings-but sleeves to the ei-
bow and the neck cut half low are appropriate
styles; gloves are always worn. tan color or
white. The hair is worn in soft coils. high or
low. also braided and waved from the sides
and back. with single curl over the fore
head. or punched over the ears. as most be-
coming. The girl or woman with thick hair
is not lin il" but must have her locks thinned |
TO be in the fashion, as an airy, wayy, small
effect is encouraged.
To be well shod and well gloved is half and
more of the secret OF being well dressed. 1t
is fashion to have dress shoes made of a
piece of the dress. of course with silk stock
ings to match. Black continues the most IN
vogue. Red morocco slippers are worn at
home. black French kid shoes or slippers
and black stockings are worn with any toilet.
On the street the best fashion is a quiet one
in all respects with no iewelry. At home one
,an indulge the fancy for bright colors. gay
styles. and odd concets in combination and
general makeup. For church subdued
effect is best. For theater wear n mere head
iress or tiny affair Of lace, ribbon or velvet is
worn without strings, with a fancy waist. the
skirt being dark. Ono often sees large hats
at the theater, to the advantage Of
hose behind.
The effect of costume is better where the
'ame color or tone is carried throughout in
acket, hat, and gloves rs well as gown.
good contrast Of light and dark is always ad-
For mourning wear less heavy
rape is worn. Unless one can afford the
,est Grape and mourning goods the plainest
black is advisable without Grape. Fancy jet
md ornaments are not desirable nor in good
aste. neither is it well to wear too deep
,order on the handkerchief, nor to have other
han a narrow band on the stationery.
In receiving guests at ones home, a lady
hould remember not to outdress her guests,
nut to wear a less elaborate toilet than when