The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1894-08-12
DANA'S RUSSIAN TRIP.
HIS DISSERTATIONS or 4 GREET
PEOPLh's BUsY CITIES.
Avoided the Beaton Path and Entered tho
the Empire by Way Of Cracow-
Ancient Hlev.

| Concurrent WIN the recent COMING
home Of Charles a. Dana have come also
several European newspapers aliuding
in terms Of unusual compliment TO his
! exhaustive tour Of observation IN new
| iieids OF that ancient continent
| Inc publications OF Russia especially
| uWcit during rhis visit on the emineuce
OF me great American and described with
| SAUSAGE lon the thOrOughueas and the
| caiciUlhess of his social explorations,
| aibclt ne has had. by reason of lack of
! tlIne, 10 compress into brief volume his
| very Widespread notes 10 travel in the
| Holy Empire.
The famous editor suspended his labors
| yesterday at noon cOurteousiy to afford
| 20 reporter Tor The New York Times
! a chahcc TO benefit by his rehearsal OF
! what no had observed i'm the European
| dominion OF the ROmanOifs. AS be sat.
! cool ana debCndlr, at his desk by a win
! dow through which his keen eyes occa-
| siohaIiy overlook the pleAus OF car
| tracks which belts city Hail Square.
| Mr. Dana was the picture Of hale seren-
! lty. Ills broad, white forehead cleaned
In the tempered light. 4 cluster VI proofs
| cracked in the breeze on the plain semi
| circular table at which he writes. His
| mdll, unopened, Was reared in a colossal
| pile at his elbow, but il failed 10 arrest
! ms phllosopnlc attention. The bronze Of
! one who has scafdrcd was upon his
! checks. In NOrW llan flOrds and on the
! breezy unduiations of Tie Baltic he had
cNluthtly gdtheith a ne" wealth. oI
! color, for his complexion. naturally rich,
| looked yesterday richer than ever. He
! moved, too. with an even greater elias
Nclty than the WontCd spring and Verve
! which characterize him. Always urbane.
! he greeted his visitor with an eaSe-cOm-
| pelling good humOr.
Connnng himself to the most memo
| rable part of Mr. Dand's latest European
| excursion, the reporter asked:
Was IT your first visit TO Russia, Mr.
! Dana
Yes was his reply. Russia is the
] only ! had fr4xeIat
| through. The rest / have repeatedly
visited"
Did YOU follow the beaten track Of
The ordinary tourist in Russia usually
! confines himself to visiting IT. Peters
| burg, Moscow, and other great cities.
! ! went 10 Russia by way Of Cracow, and
! came first 10 kieV. This H. cnronoloel-
callv one OF the oldest towns In the
empire. 1t nrst became important i'm the
| eighth century
ut contains many magnificent churches.
and was thr nrst centre OF Christianity
ana the inst capital i'm Russia. It's early
consequence was due 10 the fact tndt
while 10 stands IN an almost bOundite5
plain upon tho banks of one of the great
rivers of Russia, and on natural Icad
between the Baltic and the Black Sea,
il consists of series of parallel ridges,
and auOpls u view or al the country
round. 30 that the approach OF am enemy
can be seen great distance away anu
IL can bc defended. II sun retains great
many Of the ola churches, but the polu-
latiOn, which. thirty years ago. was ",~p.
is now reckoned at nearly $1,000 Ana -
for its business men, more encIttuc,
active. and driving set of business men
can't be found.
In fact, the only traces OF antiquity
are the churches and the piOus thrOngs
that ill them The town itself seems
much more modern than Chicago or san
Francisco, and much haudsomer. In fact
considered merely In It's picture ue
aspects Kiev Is one Of the mCst attIdc-
tiV. places iu the world.
"Of what DO the principal industries
OF KieV cOnsistY' the reporter asked.
The principal industry said MT.
Dana. els the manufacture oi sugar tIEi4
beet roots" lie continued. with a t"lnhie
in his eyes: II should say ma
br.v,ina- COMES next. While / was there
a convention of susarmakers was IN ses.
sion. and Il more serious and intGlllhehl
set of business men never saw ItEeIS,
thing Is modern and mehy cNlii%'u'
There is nothing archaic about NE pa, e.,
its men, IT'S methods, its machinery, ul
its way of doing business. ,-,...,,
"Wnere ana You 20 upon leaving hieV'
inquired the reporter
10 Moscow-a journey snoulI sdf;
of nearly 800 miles. We went by ran
hy way of Knrsk and orel. Two very
large ana important mani eelui ~
towns The Journey takes sixteen I"
eighteen hours, but as In that latitude
you can see 10 read at 10 O'Clock az
night and begin again az 4.3O IN inc
morning Your survey Of the country j.
NOT wucb Interrupted by darkness.
had also the advantage or seeing IL III
rs epripr garb. before the heat and
drought IF summer had mad any, enc ~
upon the beauty OF the AGRICULTURAL lalI-
selpe. Ii bore everywhere the appear
au.e. as / studied II IRON tAe lA""aF
carriage. of careful culture ana pros
ueritv The houses Of the working people
were also better than / had expected 10
See They were everywhere groupe4 10
gether in villages. but do not rcmeni-
Der any tumhi--lOwE, ill-thatched, decay
lug dIscOurag1ug specimens
"The wheat was Just about 10 neEIh 20
riren the grass was generally ron ana
tan. and the potatoes. oats. ana bdIlt5
an seemed TO be in comfortable cohdl-
was there anything foreign or unfa-
miliar I'm the lau1scape|
Mr. Dana smiled, ~ II moved 10y
pleasing recollection Of the scene.
"No." he said. 1t was vast plain.
with innumerable eXtcnts OF the same
crops and with Comparatively rev patches
of special cultivation. Ihere was no
Indian corn for the reason, / suppose,
that the summers are not hot enough 10
riuen il. There We're few orchards, anu
mo vineyards, but, apart from these u.n-
ciencieS. tie appearance on the 'O"H,1i3
,Cas like thar OF the prairie farms ln llll-
uois The herds OF cattle and sheep
we're enormous. and seemed geneidliy To
he of native breeds. In the residences
! saw there was not so mhch s'clal uls
tinction or inlloatons or pcrmah"It
wealth as in France or Germany. ] sa"
no har0nlal castles or teudal keeps.
Soroetimes one house w ia be disun- |
1r,isbed from the others by its superior |
Size. but hardly by It's greater preteh-
In every instance the groups OF
houses included church. These |
Churches were usually OF a Byzantine |
Architecture. with domes either gllded or |
pafnted with green paint. The churches |
Are numerous eVeryV here Tor the Rus |
slams are the most religious people IN the |
"At what time did you arrive in Mos
Mir Dana smiled again, as II another |
"Reminiscences amused him.
1--WE arrived in Moscow about lO IN the |
morning. and the FIRST impression sol |
of il was that IL was very ing. BUSY |
town Ii has now. according 20 the reports |
$4,000 inhabitants, very intent on At
tending 10 their own business. so care
I'M are they on this point that during |
len davs We spent there | remember See
ing only one drunken man. Although |
Moscow is now 100 years old, II Is sun
growing. and. while 1t already has, per
haps. $50 chutches, they build new ones
all the time
Did the manufactures Of Moscow
strike You aS being as prosperous aiu
profitable as those Of Kiev?'
Il should say SO, Trough l didn't nave
time 10 investigate them In any general
way. Moscow appears TO he the centre
Of the art manufactures OF Russia, ana
these are very original and interesting. |
The silversmiths are especially skilfIl, |
and their productions have stamp OF
originality such as cannot bee found IN