davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
THE GREAT PEARLS.

TFrom the Gentleman'S MagaZlne.I
The Imam Of Muscat possesses a pearl
weighing twelve and a half carats,
through which you can see the day
light; it is worth about f39, 900. The one
owned by Princess Yousoupoff is unique
for beauty. 1t was sold by Georgibus
of Calais, in 1920 to Philip " Of Spain
for $4,000 ducats; it's present value is
about f36, 900. The pope, on his Access
sion, became the owner for the time be-
ing of a pearl, left by one of his pre-
decessors upon the throne of the Vat
lean, which cannot be of less value
than 100000. The Empress Frederick
has a necklace composed of thirty-two
pearls, the total value of which has
been estimated at $4,000 Her mother,
Queen Victoria, has a necklace of pink
pearls worth 5000. That of the Bar
oness Gustave de Rothsehild, made up
of five rows of these precious stones, is
valued at 100000, while that of the Bar
oness Adolphe de Rothschild is even
more costly still. Both these ladies
have given orders to their jewelers. to
bring to them any pearls of great
price" which may come into their hands
in the way of business; the gems are
usually purchased by one or other of
these ladies and added to her neck
lace.
Good judges are doubtful whether to
award the palm to either of the above
two or to that. of the Empress of Rus
STA, which has seven rows of pure white
pearls, valued at something like $4,000
roubles, but the stones of which are
perhaps less beautiful to the eye. The
one belonging to the Grand Duchess
Marie has six rows, and is said to have
cost f36, 900.
Mile. Dosne, a sister of NJ. Theirs,
has a necklace of several rows, which
has taken her thirty years to collect,
and has cost her upward of f15,0G0. The
Empress of Austria possesses some of
the most beautiful black pearls it is
possible to find; the casket and that
Of the Czarina of Russia, are, in fact,
the most famous in the world for pearls
of this color.
Nine. Leonida Leblanc sold her neck
lace of pearls a year Or two ago for
nearly 100000, but in consequence of
certain matters which were whispered
about at the time, she bought it back.
The stones in it graduate in size, and
are exceedingly beautiful in shape and
lIlStrp
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

modes to be introduced by American
actresses? 1t looks so. The majority
of them now order their toilets from
the worlds leading artists in dress,
and American taste has so impressed
it's exclusive elegance upon the de-
signers of femininity's finest feathers,
they plume themselves upon the beau
ty and the originality of the creations
they make for American women.
One of the most elegantly dressed
women on the American stage today
is Miss Elsie de Wolf, New York's so
ciety actress and one of the very few
members of the Four Hundred who
have added the grace of their gentle
birth and breeding to the stage. and
keep up their affiliations with the
Brahmin set.
A trio of toilets that Miss de Wolfe
wears in 1.-The Bauble Shop keeps her
audience in a murmur of admiration.
They are especially successful apart
from their intrinsic style and beauty,
because they suggest the refinement
of a lady of fashion and family in her
own drawing room, and nothing of the
over-accentuation of fashion that
crowds a toilet over the line separat-
ing good taste from bad.
Immensely chic and extremely good
form is morning calling toilet in
light blue Sicilienne silk 1t is not of
the new bluet (corn-fower blue) that
is destined to be hopelessly common,
but clear pale sky blue. The skirt is
a marvel Of fullness, yards and yards
wide round the bottom, and yet has
not an inch of material round the
waist save at the back.
Cut a circle from tissue paper. Make
hole in the centre, and fit it upon a
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
TRANSPORTATION IN coREA.
[From the Spectator


The means of transport in Corea are
furnished by donkeys, cattle, coolies and
ponies. The first named, from ten to
eleven hands high. will canter at a good
pace, and are also used for pack and
draught purposes, as are COWS and bulls,
the latter being large handsome beasts
bought for about f3. The Coreans are
beel-eating people. and export cattle to
Japan and Siberia. Coolies carry a con-
siderable amount of bale goods-indeed,
quite astonishing loads, being trained to
it from their infancy-and can walk thir-
ty-three miles day for weeks, without
effort.
Ponies are employed by travellers, and
posting stations are established about
ten miles apart, along all the important
routes, the pony man. usually the head
and lodging for any official or other per-
son provided with a letter authorizing
him to travel at the public expense; or,
should the traveller bring ponies with
him, they and the suite must be accom-
modated at quite a nominal charge.
Captain Cavendish and his friend, under
the queer names of "Goot-a-dam' and
s.Ka-fan-di-issl," had a document from
the minister for foreign affairs. giving
them authority to travel in the country.
and to obtain lodging, ponies, money and
OF course, they paid well for every
thing: but, as the currency of the coun-
try is copper cash, which are very cum
brous, and Japanese yen were not all
ways accepted. they would have been
often in difficulties, but having s'shoe.'
or ingot of pure silver. from which pieces
can be cut of as required.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
AT THE PIANO.

just over the edge of the chair, and
the slope should be two inches to
twelve in breadth.
So much for the desk and seat.
Next in Importance is the attitude
in sitting.
The body should be set well into the
chair, firmly touching the wood with
the lower part of the spine; trunk and
feet resting upon sloping cricket
which steadies the legs. The forearms
should rest two-third lengths on the
table. This position keeps all muscles
and bones in the proper place. AS this
is the correct way to sit when older,
it is well to train every child after this
manner from a common sense stand
point as all laws of physical culture
are founded on practical reasons.
That many cases of lateral curvature
of the spine are due to this laXity at
school and at home with children who,
having weak backs, assume continuous
FAULTY attitudes, there is no gainSaying
A Berlin physician, having examined
200 school children who were writing,
found in 100 cases that the trunk in
clined. In 81 the trunk inclined toward
the right, but the body twisted toward
the left. In only cases there was the
trunk straight In only SO was the
transverse axis of the body parallel
WIN the desk.
Two girls-twin sisters-have also
been noted in New York, who sat at
the same desk on a bench; one leaned
habitually on the left arm with the
body twisted, the other on the right,
and curvatures were developed in the
girls, according to their sitting.
OF course it is true that grown peo-
pie assume equally incorrect positions,
but the frame is developed and the
bones are less pliable. The weakest
part of a child is that long stretch
down the spinal column from the col
lar to the belt; a part that is more apt
to wriggle and drop and twist and
lounge than any other portion Of their
anatomy. Continuous muscular action
is necessary for holding it erect and
favorable conditions must be supplied
to aid the body. If not, the spinal col
umn bends, the muscles overstretch
and distortion results.
The stir created by the abolishing OF
benches and other improper seats in
school, has made many mothers Sc INK
fous concerning a possible curvfture in
their children's spines that they have
had their backs photographed and these
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

pansy petal, and there is a crushed
stock collar to match this ceinture,
which is finished off at the left of the
waist with some careless loops, and a
cluster of velvet pansies. The second
ceinture is of black velvet and this is
tied into a jaunty outstanding bow at
the back, and falls in two long narrow
sash ends on the skirt. There is a
flight of butterflies about the Shout
ders, and one perches piquantly on the
inner edge of each sleeve. The sleeves
are single balloon-like puffs to the
elbows
The half large hat has a straight
brim of velvet and the crown is con-
cealed with bouffant loops of blue rib
bon, and curling cog plumes.
Paquin of Paris created a superb
dinner dress worn by Miss de Wolf
which has a fiaring gored skirt, per-
fectly plain, of salmon pink satin. The
under side of the satin is as yellow as
gold, but although the yellow warp is
lot permitted to stamp its Individual
ity very strongly upon the pink wool,
nevertheless the pink surface SHIN
mers in every ray of light with faint
golden flush. The silk manufacturers
this season verify have wrested the
last color secret from gems and skies.
The bodice is of white chiffon just
covering the bust in a square line
back and front. The shoulders are two
crushed straps of apple green velvet.
This velvet which by artificial light is
softened to look almost blue, forms the
elbow sleeves that are large puffs, and
the Wrinkled ceinture Old yellow lace
forms deep epaulettes over the sleeves.
The opera wrap designed to wear
with this gown IS an exquisite creation
of violet velvet shot with green and
lined with ivory satin. The shape is
circular reaching to the wrists in front
and at the back, and shortened con-
siderably over the arms. The shape
and an interlining make the wrap sit
all round in very smart style. A beau
tiful old lace scarf in ivory tints is
draped about the collar forming a
short cape and jabot falls down the
| fronts where each corner is ornament
ed with q choux or rosette of the vel
vet ribbon and long ends. A rosette of
the velvet is set also on each edge of
the collar to drape the lace. The en-
tire lower portion of the cape is
wrought by hand in yellow repeating
the pattern of the lace above.
Felix, who is the best filter known
to the fashionable wordsworth does
not believe in fittingly smoothly-made
the dinner dress. He also created the
carriage dress worn by Miss de Wolf in
another act.
This is a beautiful model of the lat
est new wrinkle for having the skirt
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

of the orbit, the hairs being arranged
somewhat like straw on matched roof,
TO catch the gentle dewS OF perSpiration
which may roll from the forehead. An
other useful purpose is that of protecting
the eye from any sudden or dazzling
light; for at such times they are instantly
drawn down.
Eyelashes are thicl1est in the middle,
and taper toward each end, and are con-
stantly being renewed. Each hair natures
in five months, and then drops out to be
succeeded by u new one. Long and silky
eyelashes are said to be a sign of gentle
ness.
eve of which the poet sings; but after all
it is not the ball which makes the size of
the eye, but only. the extent to which the
lid IS distended. The almond-shaped
length Of fissure between the lids: and
this effect is often initiated by prolong-
ing shadow at the other angle, made. with
few touches OF the cosmetic pencil.
The ideal brows are arched, well mark
ed, though not heavy, and distinctly sep
arated Although, indeed, the Roman
notion of beauty included a small fore
head and united brows, Ovid tells US that
the woman of his time cleverly painted
them SO that they. appeared as one.
The perfect eyelid should form an OBJ
long, for the large, round eye in circu-
lar aperture, is Indicative of holiness;
the small circular one, of pertness. Lash
es should be long and silky.
The care OF the Drows is n very simple
matter. At night, Just before retiring,
take a little pomatum on the tip of the
fore1inger. and rub it gently into the
arched eyebrow. Then lightly pass a tow
el over the same. This is to promote the
growth. I'VE do this every night, and IN
the morning." as one maiden jocularly
remarked, 1--WE have braids." In the morn
ing the sticky substance is carefully
washed out with a soft cloth and warm
water; then a little fragrant eau de. CO.
lcgne is applied, and the tiny silver
mounted brush comes into play. 1t gem
tly pats and smooths the fine. hairs into
every morning, deficient brow, will
quickly mend its ways and wide, re
fractory one be brought into meek SUBJ
mission.
Eyelashes may have their ends clipped
with the scissors once in every five or SIX
weeks, which is all the treatment they
The best brightener of the eve is health
full sleep, and just enough of it.
E. A. SCHUBERT.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

hand side only, and may not turn round
to hit left-handed. When they miss the
ball, as is often the case, the less collect
ed lose their heads, while others begin in
despair to kick. This starts the ball t9 ltg
ment. An impetuous damsel flying to
the rescue, covers the ball with her skirts.
and commences hitting wildly; the others
are a. little chary of approaching this
intrepid performer. One. more ingenious
than the rest catches her stick in her
own, while another dribbles it off in .tri-
the open The sport possesses pientv Of
opportunities for skill; it also possesses
advantages for school girls, as between
hours. quite a number of goals can be
scored.
Before playing hockey on the ice, a
knowledge of skat ting is of course neces-
sary DIANA CROSSWAYS.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

New York, Oct Big hats have
come to town--buy before the dogs be-
gin to bark-let il be distinctly under
stood that not one of them is for the
playhouse. They are, says Madame
Mode, with her foot well down, for car
riage, church, promenade--any social
functions-alone; so let the woman
break this solemn law who dares.
Among the most unique and becom-
ing of the large shapes yet shown was
one that looked as if it might just have
stepped down from a Reynolds por-
trait. In fact, picture effects, it is to
be clearly seen, are the order of the
day, and many and varied are the sug-
gestions they give.
The brim of this hat, which was wide
and almost without a curve, was a
skeleton structure of wire and black
net, with a small roll of bright leaf
green as a border edge.
The crown, high and stiff, and look
ing more like a French bonbon box
than anything else, was made entirely
of velvet. The same color in a rich
ribbon velvet repeated itself in wide
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

duces that languishing look which the
Greek loved and which one sees in the
face of Venus
Winkelmann says: To give an express
sion of gladnesS or pleasure, the opening
of the lids is diminished in order to par
TALLY exclude the. excess of those i'm
pressions which make even pleasure pain
full. Sir Peter Lely once painted a cele-
brated belle of his time who possessed a
peculiarly long and languishing eye. it
Immediately became the style of all fash
ionable ladies to affect the soft sleepiness.
Similarly also, when a monarch of Turkey
expressed his preference for large and
dark-lashed eyes" all the women who
possessed them not, went to work to sup
ply the deficiency by circles of anthony.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

be entirely of velvet flowers and the
rim of felt A charming Felix Conlin,
fashioned in this way, had a brim of
wavy brown felt and a crown of blue
velvet roses, while a smart little Eng
lish walking hat of pigeon gray felt
and black wings had, curionsly enough,
"a black silk brim. Huge white lace
bows ornament black hats, and in some
cases low crowns are made to look high
with bands of silk or satin ribbon.
The best CT possible tints, however,
for a becoming and useful walking hat
could be taken from the one showing
the two views in the group drawing.
It was designed especially for moon
faced Southern beauty, and was of
broze felt braid, mirror velvet of the
same shade and black wings.
NINA FITCH
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
AUTUMN SHAPES AND TRIMMINGS.

of the marked contrast of this feature to
the others of the face. The brows are a
shadow in the picture, bringing its. color
and drawing into strong relief. Eyelashes
also contribute their effect; when long
and thick. they overshadow the eye, and
lnake it appear softer and more beautiful.
1t is, indeed, claimed by many, that the
eyeball itself is incapable of expression;
that it is the dropping or sudden lifting OF
the lid which speaks. These even pass
by the dilating or contracting of the pu-
pill and the sparkle of the eye, and will
rot admit that they are able, Independent
of the lid, to convey a suggestion of emo
ton. Whether this be so or not, it is GER
tainly true that the slightest elevation OF
the under eyelid-the expressive one-pro-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

The Duke and Duchess of Westminster
recently gave a large house party and
among amusements, besides tennis, golf
and hunting was the exhilerating and
vigorous game of hockey
1t Is pastime especially adapted for
cold weather on account of the amount of
the cold air sends the players home in a
glorious glow.
The game is played with a stout ash
his or rubber ball 1t is manipulated i'm a
field; there are two goals facing each
other; each side seeks to drive the ball
between the posts protected by the other
Two are chosen as captains. The leader
of the side in raises her hockey stick as
high as she likes and gives the ball a Wig
orous drive off. After that no one is al
knee on penalty of getting hooked.
They are bound to play on the right
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
coLoRs AND THEIR MEANING.

lFrom Ellwanger's 1.-THE Story of NV
House''l
Blue! 1.-The life of heaven" the hue of
ocean, the violets joy: type of faith and
fidelity. it has remained for the almond
eyed molder of clay to render thy beauty
tangible. When / admire the hues of a
Chinese vase or bottle, remember that
each color is regarded as a symbol: the
fundamental colors being five, and cor
responding to the elements-water, fire.
wood, metals, earth-and to the cardinal
points of the compass. Red belongs TO
fire, and corresponds to the south; black.
10 water and the north; green, to wood
and the east; white, to metal and the
west. Dark blue corresponds to the sky,
and yellow to the earth: blue belongs to
the east. Blue is combined with white.
red with black, and dark blue with yell
low.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

The Turkish and Circassian women use
Lenna for penciling the eyes, while those
among the Arabs of the desert blacken
draw a line about the eye to make it ap-
pear larger. In fact, it is whispered that
these women of the desert are not the
The Spanish grand danes squeeze orange
Juice into their eyes. 1t is a trifle pain
ful at first, but it cleanses the ball and
rily.
The eyebrow, according to the staid
and, ponderons definition we find in the
books. IS formed of muscle and thick
SKIN, covered with rather stiff hairs, and
resting on a bony ridge above the edge
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

changing folds, there are flights OF
butterflies in black, little ones and
large ones mounting nearly to the
knees, and then falling back to one or
two. These recherche decorations are
not embroidered or appliqued on the
silk, but are inserted in it. The silk
under each butterfly, which is of lace
and of exquisite workmanship. is cut
away to show the white silk petticoat
beneath.
The bodice is also circular in shape
with more fullness over the bust and
between the shoulders than at the
neck. 1t is made whole in front and
fastens down the left shoulder, around
the arm and under it to the sashes.
There are two of these. One is of love
ly lilac-purple velvet of the shade of a
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

and sleeves of one material and the
bodice of another. Silvery gray Sicil-
ienne forms the skirt and the sleeves,
which are huge leg O. mutton affairs,
also the pointed girdle and cape collar.
The trimming is embroidery in silver
done by hand on the silk, tiny span
giles being introduced in the embroid-
cry to heighten the effect.
The bodice is of white chiffon, and
the dress is vision of refined ele-
gance.
BELLE ARMSTRONG WHITNEY.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
BRoWS AND LAsHEs.
Care That VIII Cultivate Beautiful
AtIiuncts 10 the Eye.

NuJIHCtH 10 INC NJ z
Curiously examining the pretty toilet
articles that lie in great profusion on the
dressing table, you come across tiny
brush, delicate and white, with "a finely
chased silver back. You wonder at its
What is this for?" you ask. holding it
up. The owner looks at it for a moment
with 4 thoughtful puzzled expression.
Suddenly her face clears. 'Oh, yes, that s
my new eyebrow brush" she explains.
The disciples of physical culture have a
new cult. They devote themselves to the
eyebrow and eyelash. For the possibility
of the brow and lash, as factor in facial
expression. is being more fully appreciat-
ed. Indeed, Button, the naturalist, places
the eyebrow next in Importance to the
iognomy. This is partly because, he says,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
NEW PARTISAN TOILETS.

Worn by the Society Actress Miss Ell
sic de Wolfe in 1.-The Bauble Shop"
New York, Oct. bipartisan fash
ions today are inaugurated by few
of the prominent French star actresses
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
HOCKEY FOR GIRLS.
A vigorous Outdoor sport for COLD
Weather, Peculiarly Adapted for
Athletic SchoOI Girls

Hockey is not played by young women
to any great extent in this. country, al
though quite a popular pastime with En-
glish girls.
1t is only a matter of time, however
before a. knowledge of hockey on land
and on ice will be necessary to every
girls athletic education, and no arrange
ments for a house party win be complete
without its stout ash sticks and rubber
balls in readiness for play.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
SMART SHAPES.
NEW HATS AND BoNNETs DESIGNED
FOR THE OPENING SEASON.

Some French Eccentricities of Fash
ion, With Many Costly Novelties
That May BE InexpensiyeIy Copied
at Homo.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
spine STRENGTHENING
WHY so MANY SCHOOL CHILDREN
SUFFER

With Weak md Crooked Backs
Mothers Cannot He Too Careful to
watch the Positions Taken by
Their Girls and Boys When study
ing, Practising, etc.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14

just over the edge of the chair, and
the slope should be two inches to
twelve in breadth.
So much for the desk and seat.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-10-14
FOR THE THEATRE.
NOVELTIES

Brims, even OF felt hats, are not
necessarily of the same color as the
crown: thus a yellow crown may own
q black brim, or else the crown may
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1894-09-14

The rain Thursday was unprecedentedly
heavy, the total precipitation being near
ly four inches, the greater part of which
fell in the course Of an hour, at Just
about midnight. It was not an ordin-
airy rain-more in the nature of what is
commonly termed a cloud-burst. The
sewers and facilities for drainage we're
absolutely unequal Ito carrying off the
volume of water, and the result will be
a fairly heavy loss to some of the pro-
perty owners, whose places were in the
track of the overflow. While the dam
age Is not particularly serious in any one
instance, 1t created a sort of general
Inconvenience, and several days will
have to be occupied in "fxin' things"
before the results of the superauity Of
water can be eradicated. Bismarck was
essentially the etorm center, for no I'M
usual rains are reported either east or
west, places as near as Sterling reporting
no rain whatever.