The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-07-16
JOHN FINDS A DEFENDER.
Chinese Restaurants Declared to VII
With That of Delmonico.
From the Pittsburg Dispatch.

With That of Delmonico.
From the Pittsburg Dispatch
. A small strip of streets, much less than
the total area of couple of city squares
makes up the famous Chinese quarter of
New York. In genuine Mongoliap interest
this quarter is second only to the noted
Chinatown of San Francisco. Half a
hundred diverse civilizations have a local
center for themselves at the beginning of
the Bowery, five minutes ride in a cable
car from the city hall and the postofhce
In his fastness of crooked streets lust off
Chatham square-Pell, Doyer and Mott
John Chinaman steadfastly refuses to be
Americanized.
Chinatown is generally spoken of as
squalid and crowded, it's Inhabitants are
denominated dirty heather" and when
one suggests Chinese bill of fare the
American 1oke-maker talks about rats
and shoulders at some imaginary unclean-
illness.
Crowded, Chinatown certainly is. but
squalid is the last word to apply to it,
At the risk of being set down as a falsi-
fer and an unparalleled misstater, | af-
firm that the Chinese are the cleanest
people on earth. You could literally eat
off the floor of a Chinese kitchen. No
American or continental kitchen is in the
running with it, it is so scrupulously
clean. Not far away from the kneading
table in any Chinese kitchen YOU please
stands great bowl of that Monaghan
delicacy, chopslow, famously. roasted
pork, meat that in the hands of Chinese
cooks sends forth a most appetizing odor,
and which has been cured in China in the
smoke OF fragrant woods and herbs.
EVERYTHING COMES FROM CHINA.
everything on a Monaghan bill of fare
comes from China itself. Quaint and Gu
rious baskets, the like of which cannot be
imported in New York, stand in each
kitchen, filled with lentils, barley
sprouts, dried fish and many another ar
ticle of food peculiar to the Orient. The
fires burn steadily in odd ovens, rather
resem bling those of the old Dutch type.
and are fed with hemlock wood, when
ever that is TO be had, which Is nearly
always. A Chinese cook never uses coal
if he can possibly help it.
Start out as a gourmet a la Chonese,
and there is one dish you should try The
delights Of a bird and a small cold bot
tle' at the historic "Delmonico's on the
avenue" are tame when compared with
the roast wood pigeons, spitted on a stick
and served with a curious sauce in the
Chinese Delmonico," Mott street. The
PASNtAo NAS AADUA ttAAJ CpOhtu W OFuGr.
They are kept, alive and happy. in a
wicker cage on the window sill of the
kitchen, and upon the request of the ''di-
ner-Out" as many as are needed are with
drawn.
Harry Lee King is the Chinese Delmon-
leo He is an Americanized Chinaman..
good natured, keen and clever. Though
he caters in some measure to Americans.
his place has lost none of its character
istics, and,conventional Orentals swarm
there by the dozens. The prices. and
therefore the margin of profit are much
smaller here than in the more widely
known restaurants uptown yet, neverthe-
less, Harry Lee King manages to clear
$1,000 TO $4,000 year
AN IDEA TO BE CORRECTED.
A moments depression for Wong Ching
Foo, the lawyer in chief Of the colony, a
very small Oriental. possessed Of a col
leRe education, ana with nothing but his
face TO show his race Wong Ching is
thoroughly Americaniled. Even his ideas
are those Of Americans. He talks gliblv
on politics, races and the fashions. once
he edited breezy paper, but the Oriental
support was not sufficient. lie is the con-
Meeting link between the people OF the
colony and the world without
Another idea regarding the Chinese
needs correction. This Is with reference
20 their traditional uear-handedncss 10
has been said that a Chinaman can live