New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-03-11
MEMS FASHIONS.
THE NEW sCARFs-CoLORED LINEN.

THE NEW SCARFS-COLORED LINEN.
At no time has the mems furnisher' been more
perplexed as to the stability Of "neckdress now
city" than at present. Up to a month ago 1t was .
fairly settled fact that the flowing end four-n-hand
Zone Of the most graceful scarfs ever worm would
continue in favor. at least another season The
leading dealers had placed their spring orders
accordingly, when suddenly the twice around ef.
feet" launched on the unsuspecting retailerss
who reluctantly ordered sparngly believing this
late-comer to be merely a temporary fad
The twice-around scarf introduced In Lon
don four years ago. but met with little favor am
became really popular. Samples were sent
to the American agents in this country, VINO en-
deavored to start the new style but were not sue
cessful. In England 1t is now part Of the proper
riding outfit and Is known as the hunting scarf"
The material is usually soft white flannel or some
other white washing material. The story Of the
introduction in this country this Of the hunt
ing scarf modified Is said to be follows popu-
lar leading actor formed of riding party.
Being well up in all the latest foreign fads he
donned hunting scarf. which was Of course. OBJ
served at once by several swell clubmen who were
of the party. Shortly afterward Broadway fur
nisher received from these gentlemen number OK
orders for the scarfs which he had made up by q
well-known manufacturer. The latter always on
the alert for something new. and approaching the
whence the orders came pondered over the
matter. and concluded that there might be more
IN IL.
too wide for everyday USE was modified to width
which would suit ordinary stand-up collar.
Black sans. for half dress. were the first to make
their appearance, and they seemed to take" from
the start. Soon afterward all the leading manu-
facturers caught on to the novelty. and are now
making II In every conceivable variety Of coorfngs
and patterns.
This modified hunting scarf goes twice around
the neck. 1t is made in four shapes One -
TO tie into a small bow: another has the DOW ~,
ready tied: the third is In the shape OF fou~inF
hand. and the fourth is the Ascot style. The lASt
two shapes may be tied to suit the idea ana taske
OF the wearer
Careful inquiry among the leading haberdashers In
dcates that while present the popularity r this
scarf is unquestioned. 1t is likely to be O. short
duration. One reason for this is that II Saln Be
worn with only style OF collar. namely. the
so-caed Poke. Its band In front Is slightly wa
or shaped and has two prongs which fasten under
the collar band to prevent its sliding up. From the
nature of the band the scarf cannot be worn WIN
either a rundown any other collar having turn
J over points.
The broken point collar is still very populas u
may be by any one having either long %
short neck; IL suits any tie scarf which may b
conceived except the hunting SCARF. and 1t is not
likely 10 be driven completely out OF fashion
The flowing end four-in-hand scarf has changed
very little in shape from last seasons. The band
smaller knot. The aprons are trine longer. and
when tied spread we'll the shirt front. allow.
ing the wearer an opportunity to exercise ingenuity
and taste In adjusting them to suit his fancy.
The combinations of coorings In soft swivel silks
of rich quality, which especially made for this
scarf are extensive this One exclusive
pattern Is the "tye spot" Ii Is an imperfect dia-
mond 1t is produced in various sizes, well spaced
and also closely grouped Some Of the new color
ings are maroon ground with the tye spot OF apple
green sky-blue, sage and orange; bottle-green
ground with lilac orange and crimson; ana navy
ground with sky-blue, gold crimson and olive. Some
silks. in which the spots are we'll separated nave
smaller satin spots figures to I'LL the spaces.
The i've" spot is really very old figure revived.
1t originated in England. and derived its name from
the fact that the silk before being dyed was pnched
ND in little knots or points and tyed Qied) with
thread 1t was then dipped into pot containing the
| dye When the dye had thoroughly penetrated the
material 1t was taken out. and after 1t had dried
the thread was removed leaving an imperfect dia-
mond Of the original color. which was called .
"tye spot. A genuine tye spot may be easily rec
| ognzed by its mperfection. which many people be.
| eve to be bad printing
Colored shirts are in fashion az much as ever.
| but they show starched bosoms Collars to
match the shirts are entirely discarded, and white
collars are the proper wear. They are largely made
| fast TO the shirts. mode which Is comfortable
enough for those who change twice day. Guns.
which should have square points and made for InhA
| must match the material and be fastened 70 the
J shirt.
The standing collars have either bent or turned
points, both are In style They should not he less
| than two and one-fourth inches high at the back
and two and ive-eighths inches in 'front.' The
| points. when turned back. must be large. and In
| stead of the former sharp turn roll Is now pre-.
ferred Like collars worn for fuldress, there must
| be no gloss, but the finish must be dead.
Plain pink and blue shirtngs and the same hav.
ing neat satin-hnished self-fgures are at present
quite in fashion, to be followed later by those Of
white ground with neat hair line and cluster stripes
| of pink blue navy black and lilac. An entirely
new shade is the dull helotrope shading on slate.
quite late and more OF 1t will be in early sum-
! mer.
Gentlemen who wear fancy shirts should be par.
ticular In the selection OF colors. Pink. for In.
stance should be entirely ignored by one whose
hair and whskers are inclined to the auburn; but
| blue or white having a blue or fine black har-line
! stripe or a very fine small blue check. will be be-
| coming on the other hand. deep blue is very
unsuitable for a swarthy olive complexion. Plain
\ pink or pink with white hair-line stripe and also
! the new heotrope tint will look well. There 70
that IT seems almost plain; this is "gentlemany.
| pattern, and makes a stylishlookng shirt.
| O
| RUSSIAN MARRIAGE CUSTOn&
From The London Standard