The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-04-22
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
Economical Forces at Work Among
the Fair Sex.
Trimmings That Brighten Plain
Gowns-more Varieties n the Tailor
Made Gown-SmalI Things That In
tersst WON arkind

4dQo GOWn- 4ulnkB mat In
tersst Womsnkind.
Copyright, 1894
New York, April 2l.-"Oh it would be
sinful not to buy that" quoth my dear to
her dearest friend. TITS such a bar
gain "
But, you know, my love, have that
blue material at home all ready TO be
made up, and that brown Jim gave me
And both of them cost 81 yard. I
don't see how you can throw away a
chance like this-why it's just as good as
] they, ever bit, and only IS cents. It's
I positively your duty"
And the buying goes on Just the same,
hard times or no. There is only this diff
| ference--that erstwhile we went quietly
out and ordered the material for
one or two good gowns, 10
last the season; and that now we
eXpend all our thought, our energy, and
our dollars on cheap materials, cheap
trimmings, small fancies and furbelows
that presumably remodel our last years
gowns. 1t takes as much money as ever.
as empty purses testify; but if all the men
have entered their names as competitors
in the Cutting Down Expense Contest,
why the women are bound to enter also
They haven't succeeded very well MS vet,
to be sure; but don't be too hard on them
the occupation is a new one
In the meantime the world is delucing
them with advice. The true econo.
mist" says one, will get herself one
tailor-made gown, costing from $50 to
500. This gown will last nicely for one
year, will be suitable for any occasion
at home, on the street, in the evening. or
at the theater unless one occupies box
and the economist never does)n
These words have a sensible iutonation /;
and inspire one with al intense desire to
| go and purchase this self-same tailor
made gown. But the economist casts one
| rapid look into the future, look that Gov
| ers period of twelve months. And in
her visions Of Sdlslligh fnl teas, eharis
| theater Suppers, afternoon promenades
| and all the rest, she discerns one monoto-
nous tailor-made girl, always clad in a
| gray suit that is annoyingly faUltless, al
| ways correct, but, on so tiresome And
| she turns from it with positive dislike.
The economist suddenly remembers
| that she hasn't anywhere near so or a
| 500, with which to freshen her old ward
! robe. So she repairs to an intimate ac-
| quaintance, who advises her TO fix
! that old dress up with handsome black
| moire-sleeves, ruf1ies, revers and the
| like. This results in a purchase of hand
| some moire-some four or five yards at
| dollar and half-and the gown is made
| over with dressmaker's bill that is al
most large enough to cover the making of
a new dress. Then the economist reflects
sadly that she could have bought enough
| plain cloth for an entire gown with the
money spent on the MORE; and notes also
that the silk is far too handsome for the
! old material it is combined with
| All of which, ! fear, is a poor prepare
! ton for my economical advice: for of
! course l have theories on the subject. in
! connection with the rest of womankind.
| To convince you, however, of the prac-
ticalness of the suggestions to be given
| you, l have sketched the result of them
| for your benefit, The large figure shows
| an over vest of moire or satin, which will
| handsomely trim a plain bodice and
/ skirt. 1t takes yard and a half of ma
| terial. The vest Is the same back and front.
1t narrows into nothing more than straps
over the shoulders, but widens out over
| thebust as it descends. A broad buckle
catches the fronts at the left side; and
two pans of the MORE fall over the left
hip. Heavy cream lace edges these ends,
and narrow vine of lace trims the vest.
The lace most popular at present has a
clear yellow tint, and is quite as heavy as
embroidery. 1t looks particularly hand
some combined with black and moire.
Another trimming makes a pretty
afternoon or evening effect. A rutfie of
fine lace is gathered over each hip; and q
just in front. Around the neck is knotted
broad piece Of black moire-a soft, good
quality, and then a bow is tied The
loops are just large enough to spread
over the sleeves a little way, and the
ends are drawn closely in under the arms
so that they cover the bodice without a
wrnkle-and caught down with little
jet heads.
Another bodice trimming can be made
with nothing but ribbons. Several loops
at the neck form the beginning; two ends
spread out therefrom, and run down, be-
meath the sleeves, to the back where a
small bow of upright loops is tied. Then
a double row of the ribbon is carried
round the left side to the front, and
another upright bow is the result. This,
on black gown, is very pretty in any Of
the cerise, or petunia colors; or, on
colored bodice in black ribbon.
The energies of the great modistes are
now bent, for the most part, on produc-
ing striking effects in the tailor-made
gown. Some simple drapes are intro
duccd in the skirts, and large buttons are
often added with good effect OF course
this necessitates petticoat beneath,
either of the same material or bright
contrast; and for this reason the plain
skirt is preferred by many. The plain
skirt is tastefully varied by rows of
braids at the bottom and up one side of
the skirt. Running parallel with the
braid at the side, q row of large buttons
extends from top to bottom of the skirt.
Or with the double skirt, the upper one
is cut open, and few rows OF fine shir-
ring are sufficient to create three pretty
folds to fall aside. giving a full view of
the smart petticoat beneath.
Another is caught up in a single box
plat, and the plat is held and but
toned by a band at the hip, trimmed with
two rows of narrow braid. In this case
the skirt is simply loosened from its lin
ing, and the lining faced with hand
some contrast; so that no underskirt is
needed The skirts edge has three rows
of the braid A jacket TO be worn with
this is very smart, with short basque
that falls iauntily away in front The
reyers are sharp points, and the sleeves
only moderate Two rows of the braid
trim it. A linen waist is worn beneath
with small points falling below the waist
line
The tailormade girl has not escaped
the economical fever in spite Of her repu-
tation for common sense. 1t finds vent
with her in a small velvet or cloth vest,
which stretches across only the front of
her bodice 1t fastens at the back with
strong bands of elastic. She finds il very
comfortable on warm days. for the figaro
covers the beck and the vest the front,
and there is no unnecessary expenditure
of material.