davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
Winter Habits and Health.

From the New York Ledger.
We are indebted to our open-and-shnt
winters for a rapid variety Of physical SEN
sations. Sometimes warm gush from the
south opens our pores deliciously, and,
again, while we are in an agreeable state
of thought comes an astringent nor'wester
and closes them with a snap. Frost log,
rain, snow and sleet, with other diversified
lions of the weather drama, follow each
other in all the orders in which five dis
comforts can possibly be arranged, while
We keep time to the changes with an APP
propriate running accompaniment, COM
prising every kind Of discord which irritat-
ed lungs and windpipes are capable OF
ejecting.
Flannel or silk next the skin, water proof
shoes and boots. the avoidance of sudden
plunges out Of heated rooms into the cold
air, the preservation of an equable and
wholesome temperature in dwelling houses
by means of proper methods of heating and
ventila ton and a diet calculated to invig-
crate and not to excite the system are
among the means of protection which ex-
perience sanctions Thousands, however
of our coughers, sneezers and wheezers
habitually trample upon all precautionary
measures and by their neglect of the con
ditions of health as regards their clothing
their habits. their eating and drinking, and
almost everything they do and don't do. IN
vite the fatal diseases which hover In ,he
air at this season to come and lodge with
them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
C0IFFURES ANDCOLOR
Two Important Questions Decided BY
Mrs. Cleveland.
A QUAINT STYLE REVIVED
Hair Dressed as It Used to Be
Years Ago
FICHUS AND COLLARETTES


written Exclusively for The Evsping Star.
The New Year reception at the White
House has settled the question of couture
ana color for the season, SO far as the
women OF Washington are concerned. Mrs.
cleveland set the pace in coiffuring. Mr..
EDMUND Russell, who claims to be the
apostle OF the beautiful since the Helian-
thus-ornamented Oscar disappeared below
the horizon, has defined coiffures as being
OF four kinds: THE knot on the nape of
the neck Is the domestic style; dropped far
down the back the romantic; on the back
OF the head the classic, and piled on top the
stylish or chic" Mrs. Cleveland has chosen
the classic style, not the Psyche, but the
Diana knot, the top of which IL even with
the top of the head and the lower part even
with the nose II this proportion is NOT
observed the profile view is bad. This
Diana knot Is quaint and old-fashioned
and particularly becoming to Mrs. Cleve-
lands style. The hair is parted In the mid.
die in front and parted of at the sides
The back hair is coiled in a tight knot, the
center standing well out The front hail
is waved slightly, lying close for q little
On each side Of the parting. then II IL rolled
up and twisted around the coil. leaving the
sides nuffed out little At the top of the
knot Mrs. Cleveland wore a little gold Mi.
gree hair pin. This arrangement left the
hair line showing all around the head. an
effect that is most becoming and desirable
when It has pretty curves. as In Mrs. Cleve-
lands case.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
Keeping Accounts.

From Harper's Bazaar.
To jot down every night the amount spent
during the day, setting every item in or
der. and footing up the sum total, is to
check ones natural tendency to extrava-
gance and to promote accuracy.
1t Is astonishing how rapidly money dis
appears when one keeps no account of 1t.
This little bit and that, these nickels spent
for car fare that sum which went for bon
bons, the other for soda water the third for
the trifie to be worn at the neck, or the pin
or clasp which might have been done with
out, and. 10! ones purse is empty. Some
girls always have money, and others never
have II, yet the allowance from which they
draw is in all cases quite liberal. The diff
ference arises from the way they spend
Those who keep accounts, and who buy
only what they are sure they want, are in a
much pleasanter position financially than
those who are caught by every pretty thing
offered on the bargain counter and who dc
not count the cost till their money Is all
gone.
Most diaries have a place In which the
memoranda of expenditure can be readily
kept, there being ruled columns with dates
for every day in the year, and little pencil
attached to the book, SO that the minimum
of trouble is given to the accountant. The
habit, once formed. Is so satisfactory thai
few are willing to abandon it when it's CON
venience has been learned.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

The first Illustration shows a gown re-
Gently imported from Paris, which IL one OF
the most charming designs that has been
sent over. The material is silvery gray
bengaline with reveres and foot border elab-
orately worked with silver threads. The
triple cape is of black velvet, trimmed with
narrow edgings OF black Persian fur, and
lined with shell-pink tafreta. tiny band
of fur outlines the slightly pointed bodice
and is used again in deep scallops on the
skirt. The velvet toque has two cunning
fur tails placed a trifie to one side and
standing stiftiy erect, while the band OF fur
about the throat makes the pretty wearer's
complexion seem unnaturally brilliant. That
is the beauty OF those dark fur collaretses;
they have a way Of Transforming even a
dingy complexion into something which msy
be admired.
The woman who is anxious to conceal
facial defects, or to accentuate her beauty,
follows the example of her clever Partisan
sisters and keeps satins and very light or
bright colors away from her face, inter-
posing whenever practicable dark-prefer-
ably black-velvet between.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

the case-a whole gown OF the rich color 10
very likely to swear at its wearer. The pur-
pie shades are the most trying In the word.
and placed next to a sallow skin make the
wearer look fairly seasick- the women
who insist on having a purple gown enouo
keep II away from the face and neck II tnsy
DO not want to add ten years TO tneir ep-
parent age. Cover the shoulders and 'front.'
with black lace. or have big bretehes OK
black velvet.
Lace fchus and coiiarettes are a boon 70
the woman with q small pocketbook, and
here are two styles which can be produced
in cheap materials at small cost yet re-
main dressily effective and go far toward
Frightening up an old gown. The collarette
has a round yoke formed OF eighteen narrow
pieces OF insertion, which are appliQued TO
ribbon Of any shade desired, the end of each
forming pointed tab. The lower hounce
OF lace is about seven inches In width. and
Is set on 80 that the points of the tabs
hang over It Along each side of the front
In a tabot OF the lace gathered to fnserfionI
a standing collar OF ribbon on which Is q
lace frill finishes the neck. A pretty Jabot
which may be OF any color is richly effective
In red ana black. 1nch-wide black velvet
ribbon. with red satin back, forms q rosette
ana loops OF varying lengths. Two yards OF
scarlet chiffon forming a point at the bot
tom OF the waist u gathered on q V-shaped
piece reaching to the shoulders, over this
black lace IL gathered and the pinning hid-
oen Dy the velvet ribbon. A plain untrfm-
med street dress can be made to look quite
modish In the evening by the proper ad-
gustment OF fr1lls OF lace and ribbon, and
Doth are SO cheap that q woman who II
skillful with her needle can make one Of ths
collarettes with very small expenditure OF
money.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
WORK FOR FAIR FINGERS,
Etamine IL q New Material and Makes
Elective Fancy Work.

Etamine Is q New Material and Makes
Elective Fancy Work.
From the Cincinnati Enquirer
One Of the prettiest modern materials
for decorating with needlework is the WIRE
twist etamine. 1t appears to be q very
coarse-meshed kind of scrim made in can
vas weave of cotton thread. so tightly
twisted as to be wiry. There are degrees
Of fneness in the materials, the coarse
being very open, and therefore most enec-
tive for certain purposes
For a table scarf q medium grade of eta
mine Is used The pattern which is stamped
upon 1t in outline is pond lilies and their
large, plate-like leaves. The outline is fol-
lowed in rope stitch with black silk. The
flowers are filled in with heavy white silk
in the longest possible stitching, all run
ming lengthwise of the petal The leaves
are filled with green of the shade shown
by an accurate study of the natural lily
pad. The stems have line of greenish
brown worked closely against the black
stitching, which covers the marking OF the
pattern.
The black outlining in this, as in other
designs, detracts a little from the realty
of the natural forms initiated but II gives
a cameo-like effect, which is now consider
ed desirable in embroidery. After working
the piece is stretched upon a lining of satin
and edged with Cluny lace, which is headed
by band of satin ribbon.
A sofa pillow of the very coarse open.
meshed etamine is filled with yellow SILK
in cross-stitch, the pattern of large pop.
pies being first outlined and veined with
dark red and left without filling. The de-
sign thus appears transparent upon q
shiny. silken ground. The back Of the sofa
pillow is Of plain satin the color OF the
needlework.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
Concerning Visiting Cards.

lowing rules: A married woman in So
ciety, especially with daughters, should
always use the prefix Mrs" Widows and
maiden ladies often prefer to use the simple
name without prefix; fashion dictates other
wise. a young lady in society, having
passed her first season, should, II the
eldest daughter use simply, for instance,
Miss Boutwell," If a younger dauShrcr
she should use her christian name in full
In her first season a debutante should
engrave her name below that of her mother,
her individual card not appearing ;ill the
second season. on visiting with her mother
the name OF a daughter may be engraved
below that of her mother; If separate, her
card should always be left with her rrorh-
ers card. The same applies to a plurality
OF daughters, the names beng grouped.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06
The Luxurious SEASON.

The bodices now have no darts and hardly
any seams, the material crossing under
deep belts which end just beneath the bust
Velvets are universally worn, and for bod
ices are cut in a new square form, with the
big sleeves, which give great apparent
and real width to the figure. A woman OF
fashion in full dress measures three feet
across from sleeve to sleeve. Nobody looks
slight nowadays. A year or two ago we
all tried to be slender as possible, now
we are trying how well-developed our fig
ures can look, and in order not to shorten
the waist the belts are often arranged
to give length. Paste buckles are intro
duced on the shoulders, and they show ur
well with the favorite dahlia tint. Swaying
fringes appear wherever it is possible, and
we are grown so luxurious that we are not
content with costly fur trimmings, but
we are also lining our black velvet cloaks
with chinchilla and other skins that are
visible just at the edge of the garment anc
at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

yet inexpensive gown was made or black
storm serge. the skirt fitting well acroso the
front and sides. but swinging full and stin
at the back. The bodice was plain ana
round, with a modified empire belt edged
with a very narrow line OF astrakhan. ana
full pulled sleeves reaching almost to the
wrist. The accompanying wrap was full
triple cape with a high Worth collar, each
cape and the collar being lined with crimson
taffeta and bordered with bands OF as
trakhan.
With any costume having the stylish. full
shouldered effect, a small hat Is the most
desirable, and If the trimming be high ana
placed just in front the result Is most sat
isfactory.
A new way OF finishing the dress skirt is
to use heavy cord Of twisted silk or pleat-
ed velvet, around the edge, while the back
breadths are lined from waist to hem with
haircloth OF buckram, in order to give the
required stiffness and swing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

1t to be. Another pretty bit Of economy
was displayed by a lady who needed win
ter wrap, but had no bank account. From
the depths of an old, old cedar chest she
fshed a half-century old mink cape. with
long tabs. She had just 81 in her pocket
book. An idea. born of desperation, struck
her. She got two yards of dark brown vel
veteen. lined it with some pieces from an
old silk dress, and today you will probably
see her on the avenue and wonder how I'M
der the sun she was ever able to buy such
an expensive wrap.
Sometimes after a tiresome afternoon at
the sewing machine or shopping one Is too
weary to dress for the evening. 1t IL comfort
ing in such case to have something ready
with which to brighten up ones toilet. A
lace collarette will ofttimes transform q
quiet street gown into quite a gala affair,
and Is very easily and cheaply constructed.
One that 1 inspected recently was worn at
the theater. 1t had for a foundation some
thing like sixteen pieces of ribbon, over
which was laid lace insertion and the
ends pointed. From under this fell a lace
hounce about fifteen inches wide. 1t was
gathered into a cascade in front and caught
with a bow of ribbon at the throat and an
other at the belt line. Another pretty
neck fixing is formed of two yards of red
embroidered mousseiaine de sole, which is
ruffied on a narrow V foundation of red
silk; over this black lace was cascaded.
SONORA SARA.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

The second costume is made of novelty
cloth, showing a golden brown ground, with
a delicate scroll work OF willow green and
crimson running all through it. One odd
feature OF this pretty gown is the wide COL
lar, which falls on each side to form the
jacket fronts. The dress Itself Is close
lifting princess, fastened on the side, under
meath the coat. 1t is trimmed, as shown in
the sketch, with bands and small crescents
of seal brown velvet. The round hat Is of
golden brown felt, simply trimmed with
bows and twists of velvet. from the center
of which stands an aggressive gold aigrette.
narrow band of glossy seal fur is laid
along the edge of the brim. TO be worn with
this are long gloves of deep brown undress-
ed kid. That is another pretty feature of
this seasons toilettes, the wearing of long
dark gloves pulled up over the lower sleeve.
The third design is rather odd than pretty,
although the owner thinks of all stylish
gowns hers is the most stylish. The velvet
cape and petticoat are of reseda green, the
rest of the costume being of ecru cloth with
borders Of cinnamon bear fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

I have been studying French this week.
mad to. / wanted to read about fashions
and I found that English was no longer
eligible for a mcdiste. saw a very pretty
toilet. which 1 supposed was a reception
dress till looked at the top Of 1t. when
discovered 1t had a choker collar. Then
knew that it must be a house dress, for it
Is only In public that women uncover their
necks and arms. / looked up the text and
found that tea gown" is obsolete and
toilet dtnterieur' Is acting as its under
study. This particular gown was fash
Toned Of pale blue silk velvet princess style
with a train. Draped from the neck to the
sides in pannier fashion Is fine point de
Venise. The under sleeves were puffs of
mousselaine de sole. and point de Venise
was draped over them in wing-like fashion.
This gown would be particularly pretty on
a stout person, because the lace effect
would hide all signs of embonpont. 1t is
fortune the dress, for it will be just as
pretty fashioned out of any of the light
shades of velveteen, and imitation lace will
lend itself just as readily to its garniture
ish made of any of the lightweight woods,
and when it's first freshness Is gone can
be ripped up and dyed. Combined with
some bright silk 1t would still be a nice
house dress, or It could be made over for
one of the younger girls il the family.
Pursuing my Investigations 1 found that
walking dresses and ball gowns have been
hung up. and the toilette de promenade"
and toilette de ball. have been taken down
of the hooks in Madame La Nodes closet
I asked Dorothy what she thought of this
infringement on the rights of native-born
| American to speak his mother tongue. l
was afraid the fad was one that would ap-
! peal to the Anglomaniacs, and / knew that
| If there was to be a new deal Dorothy
would be In II. To my unutterable relief
she replied that Omitted States was good
dertaking to learn a new language at my
age.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

for them. and women undergo martyrdom
wearing them, but women are always ready
to die in good cause. particularly IL 1t is
becoming. l saw a makeshift the other
day which pleased me. 1t was a great
streak Of economy and pretty in the bar
gain. A little friend Of mine had been dy-
Ing for granny muff." one Of the gener-
Gus big ones that will hold-well three
hands. anyhow. She had one of the stingy
little seal muffs, but the pestiferous moths
had dined Off the center of 1t. leaving a big
rubbed light with much carrying. 1 met
the little woman on the street and she had
face like full moon, and the renovated
muff. She got yard of black silk velvet,
cut 1t in four strips, using two for each end.
These she lined with good black satin and
shirred onto the muff, covering the worn
parts effectually. Over the moth-eaten
splotch she arranged black velvet bow,
which, in turn, hid little pocket in which
car tickets can be kept 1t is a heap
prettier in reality than the picture shows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

Surely, surely, we shall have to soon call
a halt in the matter of sleeve distension.
to wear capes because they can't get their
dress sleeve into any ordinary coat. Even
the women with sealskin sacques are dis
consulate this year, for unless they get
new sleeves put in-which takes about the
whole covering of a well-grown seal in
each-there is no hope of being fashionable.
The sleeves of the new garments ale a
study. Some of them are gathered full
like a bishops and have shaped cuff
which turns down on the hand. y black
satin In this style was e:nbcoitierei all
over with jet in distinct renaissance Fat
terms composed of jet and velvet applique.
The full cape on the Shoui1 ars had a ruche
of feathers and the collar, WHEN as rot
high. had quilting of black satin beneath
II. All these outdoor garments give 1nl-
portance to the upper portion Of the fg-
ure, especially the shoulder and the sleeN es.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

Dorothy surprised me yesterday. Not that
That II anything new, however. for Dorothy
a quite famous for her surprise parties. but
an that has gone before was not a marker
70 the last shock. Dorothy Is given to nurs-
ing fads like all Of her kind. but the charge
of the light brigade Is nothing compared
with the energy she developes when she
perpetrates a new one. 1t tnclines me TO
feel as though I was sister to a cyclone.
when she descends upon me with her very
latest, for 1t usually quite takes my breath.
And so IL did yesterday when / came in
from a shopping tour. I found Dorothy
beaming from the midst of a pile Of SHIN
mering silk lace and embroidery and ecstat-
ically gazing at a most remarkable pin
cushion which she was holding out at arm s
lergth. 1t was a nice plump cushion cover
ed with yellow silk and had a ruffie of the
same. over which fell a hounce Of fine Va
lenciennes lace. In one corner was en-
oroidered in white silk a spray Of hhes-of-
the valley. Now. that does not sound like a
very sumptuous sort Of affair. but 1t
really was very pretty. indeed. 1t was
about twelve by fifteen inches In size. and
across the center formed of a double row
of pins the words For the Little Stranger"
Steamed. / was naturally inquisitive. and
Dorothy readily informed me that 1t was
for "Marie's baby" Marie. be it known.
was the chum for whom Dorothy had
donned yellow silk as maid Of honor at a
swell wedding something over q year ago.
i got as far as why 1t isn't" when this
very impoiite young sister Of mine cut me
short.
mo, goosie. It is not yet. but soon shall
be-"
I was really quite shocked. and seeing
that she had deprived me of all power of
speech she vouchsafed an explanation as
she fastened great big yellow silk bow on
one corner of the cushion and laid it aside
to pick up a square OF the finest silk flannel,
upon which she was embroidering a border
Of lilies-of-the-valley.
You see. sister mine" Dorothy began.
''the very latest fad is for the bridesmaids
to obligate themselves to furnish the layette
for the first baby. i, as maid Of honor, am
chairman of the committee on ways and
means. and we have been holding secret
sessions for some time. We have got every
thing arranged. and our plans are working
beautifully. The color theme all the way
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

There are few women who rave not had
at some time or another use for n face
powder, even though as a rule they eschew
anything on that order. a violet powder
which can be commended is composed OF
wheat starch, three pounds; powdered orr1s,
half pound. Mix together and sdd altar OF
lemon, one-eighth Of an ounce; affairs OF
bergamot and cloves. each. one-half drachm.
For those troublesome blackheads that so
disfigure the face that Is blessed with the
most classical features the follow ing GEM
pound works wonders: Take kaolin. four
drachms; glycerine, 3 drachms; acetic acid,
two drachms, and oil OF lemon, five drops
Apply this every night, and after few
days the black specks can be easily pressed
out or most of them will even come out by
washing with pumicestone soap.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-01-06

guise natures unkindness to them. and ac-
centuate their good points. I heard thin
woman say once that though she was pat
termed after a telegraph pole. she had never
Quarreled with fate, because she found that
she came in fashion about every seven
years. She will now have her day.
/ saw such a pretty debutante last week.
She was tall and slender, with a few angu-
larities that q season or two will round out
but there was character and spirit in her
sweet oval face and flashing brown eyes
that attracted me. She wore a white satin
slip, and over 1t a flmy white mousselaine
oe sole that had full skirt, with ripping
rose plating of the same at the foot. The
bodice was modestly low and covered with
frills and Fuckers of the mousselaine, and
she wore a breast knot of lilies of the val
ley. The sleeves were two big puffs Of
mousselaine de sole Her hair was parted
and slightly waved back into a loose knot
at the top Of her head. She wore ear
| rings, chains nor rings, and as she bent
her queenly young head to listen to the
conversation of one of her aged guests. 1
could not help wishing that 1 could read
her future. She seemed far from the
| "earthy" things of earth, that 1 wondered
IL her eyes would ever CLEAN with unfaith in
her kind, or sorrow cloud her sunny face.
felt as though wanted to shut her in a
glass case and keep her pure and clean.
| The sweetest buds bloom but a brief hour
and then wither, and human flowers are,
alas, too much like them. 1t Is such pity.
for all the use one has for q faded rose Is
to smut it up in q box and forget 1t.