Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-08
ETHICS OF COOKING EGGS.
How They May, rtea.e Alike Eye
Palate and Digestion.

From the New York Times.
During the warm weather eggs are most
wholesome substitute for the hearty product
of the meat stalls. Good authorities claim
that at all seasons eggs are cheaper than
meat. They are at once the easiest to pre-
pare of all cooked foods and the oftenest
poorly prepared, yet perfection Is the only
excuse for their being encountered. "
English chateIaines. with their capacity
for taking pairs to do a small thing well,
provide themselves with all sorts of at
tractive egg services FOR use on the table,
and thus are enabled to prepare the eggs
in an sppetizing and wholesome way. -
. 1t Is said that it takes woman of in
telligence to trim a kerosene lamp; 1t GER
tainIy takes such a woman to cook an egg
properly. Yet almost any cook, the most
Inexperienced, will unhesitatinsly say she
can cook eggs-it is the comparatively few
who bear out the statement with facts.
Tough fried and poached eggs, leathery
omelets, dry curds for scrambled eggs-who
has not been offered any and all of these?
The chatting dish is affordng relief from
such Ills. fortunately, but to those who
have not yet adopted this emancipator 1t
Is worth while to study the ethics Of egg
cookery. Frenchman has been able to-
include in a cook book of his preparation
over 100 ways to serve this nourishing arti-
Gle Of diet.
The Art of PoachinE.
: Poached Is one of the most delicate and
disestible ways to cook an egg. The slight
ly sailed water should be at the boiling
point, but not bubbling. That tears the
white to pieces and makes rags" Of 1t. The
egg. broken first in a saucer or cup. should
be slid easily in, and the hot water heaped
over the yolk as 1t cooks. to hasten its cov-
erlng while 1t Is still soft. A fiat perforated
cream skinner is the best utensil to take
out the egg, and 1t should reach the table
on square of hot toast from which the
crusts are cut, and on a hot plate. thirty
seconds from the moment of its leaving the
water. The egg poacher is not liked bX all
cooks. The egg comes out in beautiful
circle. but before the yolk has whiteped
over 1t has hardened beyond the perfection
point the metal ring probably somewhat
tempering the heat and action of the water
The poacher is useful, however. where a
number of eggs must be done at once,
though they need very careful watching
French cooks poach eggs in ball by CIV
ing the water rapid rotary motion with a
fork, and dropping the egg in the hole
center of this swirl.
done soft. They should be taken from the
fire while still soft enough to run, as they
cook a few seconds longer, and even retain
hardening heat on their way to the table
all of which must be allowed.
The French chef author has not disdained
to make the frying or an egg to serve with
OF broiled ham ma terial for a consid-
er paragraph. Into a hot skillet are put
a. lew drops of olive oil-enough to grease
the pan thoroughly and prevent burning
ana ter p moment the egg is dropped in.
quarter of minute sufices to set the
egg so that 1t may be skillfulIy turned, and
a second quarter of minute finishes it.
Serve on folded napkin, which is essen
tlal to absorb the oiLHWith this, although
the cook book doesaaot say it, should, go a
slice Of ham, thin asia ribbon of the tas-
seized corn, pink as the heart Of June
rose. broiled, juicyIRnd succuent, over a
clear fire. and semitic Sthe table on a hot
platter, with a bunnhi of watercress in re-
llef against It's blushirg perfection - .