The morning call., 1894-04-22
FASHION FOR MEN.
Material and Style for
Business Suits.
What Is Chic i'm Shirts, In Cuffs and
ColIars-Silk Hats and OerbieS
the Mode.

The Sartorial Art Journal of New York
in the issue for the current month says:
Although, as we have often said. this
city is the focus of fashion in the United
States, il is also true that neither all good
things sartoriaI nor all good styles that be-
come popular have their origin here. Chi.
cago, Philadelphia. Boston, Cincinnati and,
in fact, all our large cities contribute new
styles and notifications and Celebrations
of styles to the world of fashion that fni
favor not only in this city, but also in every
State in the Union.
The material most used for one style
of business suit is worsted for the
coat and vest and striped tr0user-
ing for the trousers; for another style
a brown vicuna. The lengths of the
the coat for a man of average height, five
feet eight inches. are thirty-eight inches.
The shoulders are wide in the back and
of natural width in front, and the Shout
der seams are low at the scye. The side
seams are moderately curved and the width
of the back at the scye and at the tack is
about two inches. The side body and fore
part are cut in one piece and there is no
waist seam. On the back view the edges
are represented as being plain. but the
coat from which the sketches were made
was fat-braided as represented on the
front view.
Another material is plaided cheviot
The length of a coat for man of
average height IS feet inches - is
thirty-two inches. The shoulders are
wide in the back and narrow In
moderately low. The fronts cut away
from point opposite the lowest button of
the vest, so as to completely cover up the
latter when the coat is buttoned, and they
ale cut away so as TO as nearly as possible
resemble the skirts Of cutaway frock.
The edges are single-Stitched close; the
side pockets have flaps to go In or out; the
breast pockets are patched on and the
sleeves are finished with vent closed
with three buttons.
With regard to stocks. the cheaper trades
have seized on them with such avldlty
that their death knell has already been
sounded in the high-class stores. The
favOrite ties with the best dressers will
be the neat tie in black satin or cOlOred
silks, graduated from an inch at the back
to two inches wide at the ends. This will
be tied in a simple bow, and nothing is
more graceful. The butterfly ties will
also. be favored, and as the lengths must
be exactly right the best houses make these
to order.
For evening dress hne Dutter1y DOW is
by all odds the leader either in white lawn
or dimity, or. for "stags." in black satin.
Pale lemon-coored. self-stitched dressed
kids, fastened with two pearl buttons, for
such occasions as morning weddings, are
new and decidedly chic. For afternoon
street wear handsome glove in dressed
oak tan of rather dark shade and finished
with Substituting and a single pearl but
ton.
Colored shirts in delicate pink and blue
shades, in percales and madras. chiefly in
stripe effects, will be much favored. The
collar will be white and high. the points
being bent to taste: the cuffs will be
square linked. rather smaller than here
tofore, and Of the material Of the shirt.
The bosoms are being made perceptibly
narrower
silk hats are more worn to-day than
they have ever been in this country, and
until the weather becomes unbearably
warm they will occupy the place of honor.
The crowns of the derbes are tapered
more and not so fiat: the brims are wide,
well curled and dipped. Black still leads.
but the browns and drabs will be much
worn as the genial spring advances.