The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-04-08
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
The Set Of The Reyer TO be the Fash
iOlable Criterion.

How the Fever Is Cut - Something
About Jackets and Their Accesso-
ries-The Latest Shirt Waist-Nov-
elites in Small Things.
New York, April by their revers We
shall know them. 1t is no longer the ma
terial, the particular style-for every
woman has her own-the modiste. nor yet
the richness of trimming 1t is the cut
of the rever that marks the fashionable
woman. And this in spite of the fact
that there are multitudinous ways of cut
ting, the correct one. \ broad cut. a
smart point, a jaunty way of holding
itself-al these must impress you at first
glance. These conditions having been
met, you may suit yourself and put your
rever where it is most effective: YOU
may make it of whatsoever material you
desire. Swelldom usually makes it of
moire-moire antique but regarding this
you may use your discretion What a
comfortable, o5liging little thing the
rever is! How it hides defects. brings
out what is scarcely suggested, creates
what does not exist.
Do you long for breadth of shoulder2
A great rever over each sleeve is all that
is necessary. Is your chest development
less than you might wish for2 A darling
bolero, with revers wide and sharp, COM
pensates you in no small degree for this
defect. Is there an ungainly curve in
your backl a rever will smooth it away
Is the physical development of women a
reality, or is it that her fingers have
grown skillful in adjusting folds and
Grapes in manner calculated to deceive
even her own SEX
The rever is generally a continue
tion of a collar or ru1e at the back.
Those that are sketched show the
jauntiest in cut, particularly the one
that falls from the short Jacket. In this
case the material of the jacket and the
surplice beneath, are of a line diagonal
| cloth; and the small vest, the cuA, the
belt, the collar and revers, of black
moire Another shows an immense rever
at each shoulder, lying quite fat, and
continuing in narrowing plastron down
the front, until it disappears
beneath the gathered belt. Still
another has more fanciful cut. The
width at the shoulder is cut away grad
ually, as the rever droops, then another
point is defined below which the rever
curves once more inward
Since it is pretty well settled that the
plain skirt, the coat, and the shirt or
softer silk front, shall be the order of the
10y huull oOAhGOONAg WIN uuGlOIlLy uG-
cldes on something, interest is naturally
centered i'll the shirt or the silk front
The new waists are severely plain,
button plainly down the front, have
simple collars and cu6s-and the tale is
told. Tiny white bands each side of some
Of the shirt fronts, and bordering the
cuffs are all the adOrnment many of them
can boast. A correct costume has plain
line black skirt a jacket that falls but a
few inches below the waist line; a shirt
OF coarse white piQue, dotted; a ribbed
black silk belt. fastened with neat sill
yer buckle, black butterfly tie.
Some of the shirt waists are slightly
gathered in front, some trimmed with
scant, small shoulder ruilles.
More dressy waists, to wear with the
sleeveless bolero, have stripes of cream
insertion set in, to form a yoke. Some
have the bands running round the waist
All of them are gathered, ana made very
simply.
A neat dress can be made from one of
the mixed suitings in dark tints The
skirt is cut open down the center. but inn
mediately joined again, so that no opening
is visible. Five rows of narrow braid run
down each side of the joining, and around
the bottom of the skirt The coat is
quite short and is trimmed with but three
rows of the braid. A close-fitting waist
coat, in black, shows inside with stiff
white shirt front at the neck and a black
butterfly tie. With this is worn fat
hat, trimmed with a small bunch Of
violets or pansies. White gloves are worn
with the costume.
Ever so many dainty little things are
shown in the shops, that seem particu-
larry adapted to the balmy spring days.
HandkerchiefS are the sheerest and most
perishable of all articles, and the kind
that a woman buys for show purposes
never cost less than So. These have a
center of fine crepe or India silk,
with an insertion that waves. serpen inc
| fashion, and is made of white gauze.
Then comes narrow wave OF the silk,
and finally the tiny scallop of gauze, that
IS beautifully EN- broidered in tiny flower
pattern. These are fashionable in black
and white, black being the predominating
color.
1t will be long before the possibilities
Of the buckle are exhausted A new
fancy in evening gowns shows
a broad buckle right over the
hip. Below it lies a panel in
delicate green velvet and at the sides of
which stretch forth the dainty folds of
Towering green silk. Diagonally across
the panel are carried two bands of lace.
of heavy mesh and sharp point At the
hip. full gathers OF lace are drawn
through the long, cur ing buckle and i'm
~t-CA-SS ACSHo u bAiN fNAfCb SlanQ tdCu
side.
These panels are great feature of the
rich evening gown. The lace is very
often insertion; single broad band of it,
so wide as to cover fully half of the
panel, is employed with good effect
In wells there is great variety Almost
all have fine dots; but the diversity APP
pears in the edgings and colorings. Tie
white or deep cream veiis have generally
small scallop at the edge, and small
flowers above The black ones have
black lace edges, in some instances al
though the black with white edge Is very
dainty. In this combination there is a
black that has border of exceedingly
fine point, with the pattern outlined by
black thread. Another black has
straight, plain border at the very edge.
and a small vine inside; another effective
one is edged with three close. even
stripes another, with small. pointed
scallop a the edge has a fine vine inside,
and tiny flowers all over. All of these de-
signs are so minute that they attract no
attention, and are in very good taste.
Those in dark blue or in golden brown,
also have the fancy edges.