The Bossier banner., 1894-12-27
FARMER AND PLANTER
PLANTING ORCHARDS.
Some Practical Hints by Practical Orch
arttist.


Trees are oftener set too close to-
gether than too far apart. In fact, the
latter error scarcely exists. Trees are
wide feeders, and the best results are
obtained when each tree stands far
enough from its neighbors to allow 1t
to possess an Individuality all its own.
An additional reason for sparse plant
ing has lately become important-the
necessity of spraying for insects and
fungus pests-and for this reason, as
well as to allow of better cultivation,
the outside rowsssshould not be set
close to fences The distance at
which trees may be set depends
much upon the system of prun-
ing. If heading-in is followed
vigorously and Systematically, trees
may be set third nearer than if al
lowed to take their natural form.
Headingin should always be practiced
with dwarf pears, and many of our
best growers pursue it with peaches,
plums and ounces. For myself, have
always advised thin planting as the
safer rule for the majority of cases.
The following table may be supposed
to represent the outside average limit
for the planting of orchards, when the
trees are allowed 10 take their natural
form:
Apples, 40 feet each way; pears,
standard, 20 to 25 feet; pears, dwarf,
10 feet to rod; ounces, rod; peaches,
20 feet; plums, 90 feet; apricots, 90 feet;
grapes, 6xS to 8x10; currants, 4x6 to
6xS; blackberries, 4x7 to exc; raspber-
ries, 3X6 to 5XS
These are safe distances. In certain
cases, however, where the soil is strong
and the grower makes thorough work
of cultivating, pruning, and fertiliz-
ing, these distances can be reduced
somewhat with profit, except in the
case Of apples. These remarks will
also apply to the common question
whether it is good policy to plant
short lived trees, as peaches, between
apples and pears. 1t all depends upon
the man. In general, l should dis
courage it; but if the orchardist gives
the very best attention to fertilizing
and cultivating, plantations can be
mixed with good results.
Plow the land and fit it we'll. AS all
orchards should be put into cultivated
crops for the first two years, at least,
I it will generally be sound advisable to
plow the entire area before the or
chard is set, rather than to plow
strips where the trees are to go,
for the land can then be shaped better
with reference to surface drainage and
general conveniences. The trees
should be set neither in dead burrows
nor on back burrows. Level culture
should generally be adopted from the
start, unless it is necessary to displace
surface water, and in that case it may
be questioned if the land is fit for an
orchard. In all ordinary soils, holes
must be dug by hand for the tree
fruits. Flowing out deep furrow in
the line of the rows may lessen the
digging and aid in getting the trees in
line. The hole should be dug broad
and ample, and the harder the soil the
larger ought the hole to be, for in that
case the loose dirt which is filled in
must give the tree it's start. In loose
and deep soils, the hole need be no
larger than the spread of the
roots. Chop up the soil in the
bottom of the hole, or throw
in few shovelfals of loose surface
earth The tree should be set an inch
or two deeper than it stood in the
nursery, for the loose earth will settle
and wash away in the course of the
season, even if it is well packed when
the tree is set. Dwarf pears should be
set from three to six inches below
the bud. Every care must be
exercised to get the soil thoroughly
firmed in about the roots-which are
Strengthened out in Approximately
their natural position-and especially
under the crown or fork of the roots,
in order that no air spaces may be left
to dry out. The dirt can be best
placed by lingering it in, NOV
ing the tree gently up and down at
the same time. Once or twice in the
progress of filling the hole, the earth
should be stamped down. Fill the
hole to little more than level full, to
carry off surface water but be careful
that no hollows are left close about
the tree into which water can settle,
especially when painting in the fall.
Stamp on the earth very firmly about
the tree before leaving it, for the
double-purpose of retaining moisture
and of holding the tree against winds.
All this operation of tree planting can
proceed to perfection only when the
earth is dry enough to crumble. Trees
can not be well planted in wet and
sticky soil.
If the trees are set according to these
directions and the tops are cut back,
there will rarely be any necessity for
stalking and trying the trees to keep
them plumb.
Mulches of straw or manure are
sometimes advised for newly-set trees.
For trees planted late in the spring
and upon droughty soils, light mulch
about the tree may be advised. but in
other cases it is not. If mulches are
applied to fall-planted trees, care must
be taken to tramp them down well, OF
they may become a nesting place for
mice, which will girdle the trees if
there are heavy SHOWS. There are
those who favor placing a forkful OF
manure in the bottom of the hole. but