Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1894-06-17

Fig. 4 shows an upderwaist OF very
stout cloth, to which the pantalooDs are
buttoned when the shirt waist is made
blouse fashion. so that the jacket can
be removed II desirable. Figs. and
show diagrams for boys plain knee
pants. The notch is to be taken In, and
the general instructions for making
sailor trousers are followed, except that
there is strong band OF drilling with
six buttonholes sewed inside the top OF
these to fasten on the underwaist. Some
prefer eight buttonholes. There should
be set three or four buttons on the bot
tom of the outside seam. The flap Is to
give a solid foundation for them. Fig.
is the back and the front. They lap
over to the right
The norfolk jacket is favorite coat
for boys from Z TO Is. 1t Is suitably
made of tweed, cheViot, corkscrew and
mixtures, and IL is satisfactory gar
ment for amateurs. The same general
rules for measure and treatment OF ma
terial given above will also apply in
drafting and cutting this jacket. The
best tailors now do not attempt TO lay
the folds In the jacket, but they apply
them after the rest cut out. With pos
tiche folds IL requires Ia yards for
boy of 10. With the folds laid in it would
require nearly double the quantity.
Fig. l shows the front. with the folds
sewed en- and marks to outline the belt
The front OF norfolk jacket is cut like
any other. The folds are stitched on the
edges and fastened loosely but firmly TO
the jacket, leaving space unsewed for
the belt 10 pass under. Fig. 2 is one
side piece, which is plain save for the
belt. Fig. is half Of the back. There
are four folds on the front OF the Jacket,
two on each side, but only two in the
back, one On each side. The belt
passes under these also. The belt
should be stiffened with buckram, and
the folds look better IL rather stiff.
Fig. 4 is the collar, which is sewed to
the coat like ell collars and we'll
pressed. Dots mark the lapel. All
seams and parts must be pressed fiat as
fast as sewed; otherwise the effect will
be amateurish. The sleeve should reach
to within an inch OF the bottom OF the
Jacket, and that reaches from four to
six inches below the waist line, accord
lux bO Tue olLo VI VIC IVY hO PNNhSS"
are set below the belt, and small one
may be set high on the left side. The
gathered knee pants are oftenest worn
with the norfolk jacket.
The norfolk Jackets lined or rot, &C
cording to the season, but in all cases
the sleeves must be lined with silk or
fine silesia, that they may slip on and
off easily, and in any case the front fold
where the buttons go must be
lined with buckram or canvas, so
that IL will hold firmly. II the
coat is not lined, the hem should be
covered with q band OF silk or cotton
tape on the inside. There are no posi-
Bile means in an article like this to give
exact dimensions, but general rule
would be to enlarge the diagram six or
eight times, which would bring the
size about right for boy OF II. 1t
could be trimmed II too large. 1t is
better to draft off the patterns first on
paper, then on some old stuff, which
should be basted and slipped on,
for the norfolk jacket fits tho
figure quite snugly, though
II does not appear TO on account OF the
plaits. A little pains In fitting rough
lining will not DO labor thrown away,
since 1t insures perfection. One WORD
should be added about buttonholss.
They should be first overcast then
barred and then worked with good
twist. Tailors use thick black linen