davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
"Vantine's Chocolate Annals" Perfectly
pure and deliciousIy favored CONNECTIONS.
Ia Japanese lacquer boxes, IOc. each.

energy. and what was left was expended In
stretching the rope taut. The gun was loaded
and run out TO the ships side and was then
ready for another fire.
From the smallest. gun TO the largest. the n.y.
draulic recoil cylinder is now used for checking
recoil. IL consists OF a bronze or steel cylinder
with an interior length little greater than the
rccoil allowed. This cylinder Is strongly bolted
70 that part OF the carriage that Is stationary In
the turret: piston Is fitted In this cylinder with
the piston rod projecting through the rear cover.
The cylinder Is grooved on Its inner surface sufii-
cent To allow the liqu d with which It Is filled
To pass with difficulty from side OF the pis-
ton to the other; when the recOil takes place the
rod which Is made fast to the gun hauls the
piston to the rear and the resistance TO flow pre-
sented bv the CONSTRUCTED passages takes up the
entire energy. So nicely are these grooves cal
culated and constructed that the big l3-inch
gun at Indian Head Is brought TO rest within
half an inch of the exact spot intended.
The carriage for one OF these guns weighs
about thirty tons and Is built almost entirely OF
steel: indeed, II IL were not for the fact that
steel making has progressed as far as IL has IL
would be impossible not only TO build the modern
heavy guns, but to mount them structures
light enough TO make IL practicable TO carry
them on hoard ship. The l3-inch gun and
Facilitating bed upon which II slides TO the rear
weighs about $50. 900 pounds and mechanism
must be provided tn elevate or depress this great
weight: Ponderous cranes would he used on
shore Tor handling such masses but on ship
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

soft AstrakhAn which is so fashionable this
year. In combination with ermine II makes
very stylish capes. With velvet. brocades.
moires, beautiful laces, and deliberately beaded
trimmings in the foreground Of materials II Is a
simple matter to anticipate the elegance Of the
winter costumes.
very handsome gown for calling purposes is
made OF blue velvet, and trimmed with bands
OF cresm-colored satin covered with en-
broidery. One band extends around the skirt
with vertical bands at intervals. The full bodice
Is confined by a satin belt, and satin bands trim
the neck to correspond with the skirt The col
lar Is OF cream white silk muslin. Another COS
tune, suitable for a young lady, has a skirt OF
plaid wool in pretty shade OF beige. The silk
waist is OF silk TO match. covered with cream
guipure, and over this the silk. lined with cream
white, Is made 10 describe a sort OF vest In front
and bretelles in the back. Tho silk sleeves are
slashsl below the elbow, showing the guipure
underneath.
A novel sleeve, especially suitable for soft
French cloth. is made on fitted lining and has
an under and an upper piece, which is gathered
at tho back and front seams and drawn up
under a rosette Of ribbon. The second one is
more extreme in style and is trimmed with lace
and ribbon.
stylish model for a wool and velvet gown
has a full plain skirt with three plaits in front
caught together with rosettes OF the same. The
balloon part Of the sleeves is also OF cloth. and
the lower sleeve and bodice OF velvet adorned
with jet-spanEled embroidery. The wrinkled
collar and rOsettes are also of velvet.
Another gown is OF dull red rose cloth made
with a round bodice cut low and crossed in front
over linen shirt. Two wide revere-like col
lars are the only trimming, the under one OF
pale blue silk making a pretty contrast. The
SKIRT is Nightly drSDed In front having full godet
plait ON the left side. A very simple and youth
tul French tailor, made costume Of gTay-blue
tweed has ivory white cloth panels and reyers
for the only trimming. An exceedingly elegant
velvet gown Is made OF two shades of green. the
skirt belng darker than the bodice which IL
very full A lovely trimming OF pale yellow
guipure, richly embroidered with jet, forms
cape epauleis and deep brlt which holds the
fulness in place. Over the shoulders there are
bretelles OF sable terminating in jet drops. aud
the neck band Is Of lemon cOlOred ribbon tied
In two bows on elixir side. The skirt Is trimmed
at the bottom with = band OF sable.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

board weight and space forbid anything OF the
kind. The hydraulic press worked with water
under a pressure OF from 900 10 1000 pounds
per square inch is the means which has success
Iully surmounted the difficulty.
he sul' Pa t1Iiis q iIttIe lever the water
OF the gun Hntil the muzzle points at the correct
height; Another valve lever is moved and power
full hydraulic engines revOye the turret about its
centre until the gun j. aligned on the target
Both OF these movements require 80 little effort
need To remove his eye for an instant from the
sights he watches carefully as the gun sweeps
around, moving the levers the while controlling
each motion OF the gun AS IL II were a toy when
suddenly he drops the levers, presses an electric
button. and with a roar OF thunder the gun leaps
70 the rear and the shell goes screaming to the
target
has cleared away sufficiently for another shot.
Meantime all is hustle in the turret. The
washed out with a hose flor il requires pow
erful stream Of water TO loosen the heavy cakes
charge Of po%der and he has run up to
the gun ready for loading But the gun must
out 70 the end OF the carriage ready for the next
recoil. Hydraulic power Is again utilized, and
fteeR degrees sI in two or three seconds sec VI
The idea OF ranming home a proJeetile 10
standing ePeeT With long wooden ramms m1 IN
his hand, giving smart sweep Of the arm when
slight thud snno ,.,r thaf!he sun Is ready
Il weighs LOO pounds, and, as the loading
must be done quickly. power must again be
Ta s1 IS SesiEaed il looks ike large Sy
inder, and when the pressure is turned on Il
lengthens out into huge telescope. forcing the
shell before Il into the bore The powder comes
up in two cylindrical wOOllen bags, 275 pounds
in each bag. and the rammermust be Withdrawn
twice and run out again twice more before the
operation OF loading Is completed. Now the
breach is closed and the gun captain Is already
at work pointing the great gun at the object
marked for destruction.
The larger gun carriages require months 10
build, and may cost from 100000 20 $50 OOO
Nearly all Of the heavier parts are OF cast steel
and the metal must be absolutely hAwless. Five
or six castings Tor one part may be rejected be-
fore one Is accepted perfect the cost Is there
fore greatly increased.
Gun carriages for land Notifications ara mueh
heavier han for ships. A faVorits type Of ne
former, the disappearing" mount. needs only
20 be constructed IN a pit and the surroundins
land becomes a fertilization. Upon being dreH
the gun jumps 70 the rear down the pit uherS
n Is loaded and By means Of mirrors pointed foF
me next nre, entirely out OF sight OF the enemy.
pom opening valve the gun rises above a.
sLzht AEAlA.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
RECOIL OF LARGE GUNS.
The Mechanism Necessary for Absorbing
the "kIck" OF the big Weapons

Many Of these who read with Onder OF the
5O,000-foot tons Of striking energy in the half
ton shell fired from the l3-nch gun, give little
thought TO the gun carriage that must hold this
monster. Almost every one has fired an ord-
nary small-arm rifle, and experienced the
kick" 1t gives when the charge of seventy
grains OF powder Il exploded. The weight OF
the powder In the l3-inch gun is just SO, 200
times As great rs that OF the rife. Altogether
the work OF the explosion consists in propelling
an l,lO0-pound shot at the velocity OF nearly a
half mile per second, and In propelling the gun
TO the rear with an energy Of roo foot tons.
The problem Is to get rid Of the 700 foot tons
OF energy without injury To the gun, carriage
or mechanism on the carriage that enables the
gunner TO manipulate the enormous weapon
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
WoMEN's WORK IN DESIGNING.
Results OF Two Years study II the School
or Applied DesIGa.

OrAPPIIsd DesIkA.
IL Is decidedly refreshing and not little sur
prising TO hear Mrs. Dunlap Hopkins talk about
the success OF the School OF Applied Design for
Women. which was organized through her ef-
forts and opened only two years ago. The fall
term OF the third year opened on Sept. "a with
more than 400 pupils enrolled. The school is
self-supporting. The various departments are
under the direction of the best practical design
ers in the city, and the work, not only OF the
graduates, but OF many OF the pupils OF the
school, is sold at the highest rate paid for such
work, in open competition with the work OF
European designers, who have hitherto chiefly
supplied the demand OF the manufacturers OF
this country.
That is an surprising record for two-year-
old school, but that is not the most surprising
from a talk With Mrs Dunlap Hopkins
II is that she not only asks no meas
ure OF allowance for the work Of the pupils
and graduates Of the school because they are
women, but she, with decided emphasis, insists
that the work Of the school shall be judged only
as 10 its practical applicability 10 the mechan-
ism of the wall paper mill, the carpet mill, the
SIX, chlntz, and calico mills, the photographers,
book makers, chrome printers; furniture ma
tistic designing is applied to manufactures. AS
the pupils are taught 10 design they are az the
and Limitations OF the presses, looms and other
machines through which the designs are 20 be
The work OF a designer" said Mrs. Dunlap
hopk ms when she was called upon at the school,
goo West Twenty-third street is worthless
practical. II is none the less worthless because
q happens 10 be a woman's work. Women, in
rights because Of their sex. The only right
they have Is 10 demonstrate by hard study and
work WHISTLER they can produce that which the
something eiss. We do not require any iesisia,
ton 70 compel : carpet maker 70 buy "omAns
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

The blouse. which has become such an indis-
penssble article OF Dress retains Its popularity.
and In most cases bears out the name with the
extra fulness which overhangs the belt. Every
sort Of q fancy waist Is worn, and black silk
skirts, whether OF the new frosted MORE or
satin. are consequently AZ desirable as ever. A
very charming "Doucet" gown has q black
satin skirt, trimmed with Jet. and full bodice
Of rose velvet. with big black lace sleeves. A
new kind OF accordion plating with wavy lines
is used for waists, and black chiffon over color
is the favorite material. Black over pale blue,
with Jet bretelles over the shoulders. ending in
q fringe, and jetted belt. Ia very effective.
This bids fair to be velvet and fur season.
Waists and entire dresses are made of velvet,
and skirts and coats of "Caracul," the fine
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
FAIL AND WINTER CAPEs.
Have Them Made ANY Length and OF Any
Msterial-some Examples.

The enormous width Of the sleeves establishes
the continued popularity Of capcs, which In any
length or material are safe investment for n
winter garment There Is very little change in
the style as regards shape, but they are far more
deliberately trimmed than they were last year.
Yet velvet, silk. lace, and fur or feathers are
combined in one garment with worry elegant
effect. large velvet cape, given in the illus
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

Seven hundred foot tons is about equal to the
power required 10 lift a gOod-sized sailing ship
foot; or the smashing effect that a large rail
way locomotive would have II dropped from the
roadway Of the Brooklyn Bridge TO the river.
Now all OF this energy must be destroyed by al
lowing the gun to recoil, and making IL work
during every inch of this recoil until the total
energy has been consumed. II a large amount
OF recoil were allowable, the work taken away
each instant would be less; but the size OF the
turret or gun platform upon which the gun is
mounted limits this distance. and for the big
l3-inch guns OF the battle ships So inches is the
maximum.
In the old days OF wooden frigates, when a2-
pound shots were considered tremendous. the
gun WAS mounted on a strongly built framework
OF oak with two little wooden front wheels or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

effect But these much distended skirts are not
universally worn, and those Of more modest
dimensions ere sure 10 be favored, for heavy
winter materials and velvets which are 10 be
worn 20 much Will make the extra fulness too
much Of burden.
Another cheerful item in the fashion Of skirts
Is that they are very simply trimmed, N At all,
and drapery, which was persistently prophe-
sled last year, is rarely seen, and only Of the
plainest description.
A plain cloth skirt may be styllshly trimmed
at the bottom with narrow bias fold Of velvet,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
THE INTERESTING SEX
Continues TO Make Herself and
the World Attractive.
HER DRESS Is GORGEOUS,
And Her Deeds are Frsught with Good.
ness, Joy, ana Hustle.

Ths Latest sleeve ia. Outao.e All ~. Pre-
secersor- ITS Size Il Enor-ous But
Mach Diste-aes SKIRTS Are Not II 40
Mech. Favor-The Newest Coier--Ths
Blouse Stui Pop-Isr-so-e Hats .s TO
the rre.erv.tion or the Hnir-Ths Ia
cres.i-e Host OF won.u's tubs - A
school for Minio..ires' Daushters.
II fashions, like flowers in their respective
seasons, would only blossom out each year with
The same regularity Of form and color what
deal Of bother and anxiety would be spared the
feminine mind. Yet, on the other hand, there
would he woes Of another kind. for IL there were
no changes the fashion makers would have to
TO out Of business, go, for their advantage and
our distraction. the general upheaval OF all
things which we're fashionable, to give place for
the things which are to be fashionable, must
periodically disturb our peace. Once again we
must put away the dainty summer hnery, 50
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

manner, floating out full from the shoulders
and down to the elbow, or caught up here and
there with rosettes and bows, and two or three
different materials are still used In its con-
structlon, Elbow sleeves of large proportions
are worn In evening and dinner gowns, and
when n lower sleeve Is desired II can be made Of
shirred chiffon, without lining. but long gloves
usually take the place of this sheath-like ar
rangement. Expansion IL evidently the mott
conspicuous difference between the summer
and fall styles, and the latest hats and cloaks
rs well as skirts and waists, all have the APP
pearance Of being extended to the limit. and
promptly impress You with the vast amount OF
material employed and the utter disregard for
grace In outline. The first outburst OF fashion
Is too crude and uncertain In detail TO admit of
definite predictions as to modes; It must have
time to adjust early fancies 20 the tendencies
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

traton, is striped at wide intervals with Jet out
lined with feather trimming. and ostrich
feathers form the yoke and collar. second
one is OF black vicuna. trimmed with an APP
plique Of black velvet and embroidery of jet in
a scrolrdesign. The collar is decorated in the
same manner and edged with black Thibet
fur. very elegant coat OF black velvet has
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

and terminating below the elbow In long tight
fitting shape, with gauntlet cuffs at the wrists
In striking contrast 10 all this elegance Is a sim
pie cape OF soft Himalaya cloth. which can
easily be made at home; and with a pretty
lining and the fancy hood at the neck 1t has
quite pretentious air. which is very comforting
TO the owner Of a limited purse.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
FAME i. HELMuTH.
President of Sorosis.
- - rnA1E
chairman Com. on state Federation. -

The conference is to he held Mt Sherrys and
will take place after the business meeting and
, hInsS Mpi tpmidGntal,y II may be mentioned
delegates to the conference at her house on the
same evening, and other meetings will uhdOubt-
edlv take place the following day. The knowl-
edge gained Of the multiplicity OF women's clubs
in this state through the statistics gathered for
the Columbian Exposition will no doubt be
brought into requistion by SUrosis in organizing
the conference, and it is expected that IA large
delegation will be present.
Club life has without question been Of great
value to many women. for although the most
conservative of both sexes would argue that
wnmcn's duties are At home. there are countless
mbCrs VIII have no family ties. and are with
out babies in arms to demand their time and
attention: To these, and even to those who are
too closely confined with manOtOnous duties,
ne club y a boon nd many star has hcen
thanked Tor the privileges OF club companion
ship and other benefits.
II Snross is the mother Of womcn's clubs
then Mrs. CrUly IL at least the maternal grand
mother of the club idea. There is probably no
woman more thoroughly lmbued will the theory
OF the beneilcent influence of wOmen's clubs. Her
should be worth good dca!. She is free TO say
that club life is her practical religion, and her
interest IN the organizations TO which she be-
longs or Is an honorary member Is unlimited.
Individuals go for little in her opinion, and the
view Of the whole is the one that weighs with
easily to he estimated. Her latest ac-
,iyi,E ,d in club % life is the m9yemen,
in this effort she is warmly seconded by her
committee, formed Of Sorosis members. There
is nothing exclusive in Mrs. Croly,'s idea of club
Is strength and the larger the union the greater
the strength. She is not IN sympathy with little
.,puss-in- the-corner" clubs. as she dubs some Of
those who seem To her to have narrow aims and
fatally restricted mem bership. She would en-
large their scope and keep them. If possible.
from being narrow and limited.
The universe IL none too large" she says and
she is big-hearted enough to mean IL.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

immense sleeves, edged with fur. and Is orna-
mented both front and back with an effective
trimming formed Of jet, lace and ivory white
embroidery arranged in deep points. The epau-
lets are Of velvet, embroidered in white and
black TO correspond. The second garment is n
sort of combination velvet coat and mantle
with sling sleeves forming a part OF the back
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

OLD SPANISH GUN MOUST OF 400 YEARS AGO.
trucks" As they are called. A strong hemp
rope. called the breeching had its two ends
made fast TO the bulwarks Of the ship on either
side Of the gun port while jaws at the bresch Of
the gun clAsPod the middle OF the breschlnR
When the gun recoiled the friction Of the caf-
RAGS rolling % the rear took ~ some % IL
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

either checked or plain, and edged on either
side with fur. With this Is worn q charming
blouse Of velvet to match the band on the skirt
A single Norfolk plait trims the front, and three
iewelled studs fasten 1t together. The sleeves OF
velvet are very full. and the neck band is draped
with lace which is knotted In the back, and falls
in two short ends.
Certain colors are always announced from
time to time rs the favorites, but glance at the
new goods convinces you that all the colors. in
varying shades. Of course have equal place, 40
there is the usual uncertainty rs to choice.
Brown, however. except OF the tobacco shade,
does not seem TO be as popular as dark green,
blue black, purple, and dark. rich red, some
thing which is described as -" warm shade of
stone color" adds another to the list.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07
A Hosr or WoMzNs CIUBs.
They Are 20 ne Foruaea Iste = stat. yea.
GRAFTON II November


The rise and progress Of women's clubs will
require voluminous quarters in the history OF
sociology during the latter half Of this century.
There is no doubt that the tendency Of women
In the present age IL to Organize" and just
what this will lead TO IL dificult to foretell.
Still waters run deep, and although there are
societies and clubs that make themselves heard
there are innumerable small organizations that
no one knows about, at least in the large cities.
They would he found Of swarming proportions
u they should ever choose to muster their
forces in any great movement Suppose II were
too late for TIE opposite sex to cry Hold!
swarmng OF a very peaccable nature, is to
tAkc place IN thls city on NOV. 10, when all the
women's organizations IN this State are TO be
called to form State federation. Sorosis IL at
better right she being the mother OF all the club
sisterhoOd?
The following Is the call;
"Sorosis has been asked to initiate n move
ment for the formation ~ q New York state
federation of wUmen's clubs upon n plan OF
groups, which will cover all existing club organ
izationS and bring them into working relations.
The growth and development OF the club idea,
and the Significance the movement has obtained
General Feneral Federation. justifes Its exist
ence and places II ON secure and permanent fuun-
Covering now tR,rtSseyen State for local S Snes
tons TO find place In its deliberations or small
clubs to find representation.
" state fedt rail jns have therefore been found
necessary to unity local club interests and bring
into federated life the numerous small and
specialized clubs that and no place In the Cen
eral Federation and are yet interesting centres
Of local and some times original activity. State
Iowa, Kansas Missouri, Illinois, and Massachu-
sets; northern Ohio is contemplating one, and
Pennsylvania will soon follow.
The plan proposed for n New York State
federation Is to organize I'm groupS--literary.
professional. philanthrypic, educational, indus
trial, political. scientific, reform, and village
improvement clubs. Under this plan every in
terest finds n place, and each one obtains It's
value In the scheme Of club life and work. TN
der the general educational head for example.
would be included alumnT associations, college
and seminary clubs, pure study clubs, teachers
clubs and ASSOCIATE ions, and others; under sci, nee
social science, science Of government. the pltysi-
cal sciences, &c. under industrial, the clubs of
working girls and women; while under the pro-
fessOnal head would come law, art, the press,
medicine, every interest specialized and pro-
fesstonally represented by women in organiza-
tiOn.
Will you kindly consider and report upon
the Willingness OF your club to cooperate in a
conference. having for its object the discussion
Of the ndvsability OF the organization Of state
federation upon the plan proposed?
"FANNIE,I \. HELMuTH,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-10-07

end tastes OF its followers. Tho necessity for
moderation is sure TO present itself later on and
bring good results.
The extremely full skirts have seven. nine.
and sometimes ele godet plaits in the back
where hve were considered ample last season,
and these in some cases extend around the
sides and front, giving the wearer the appear
snee Of an Old-fashoned doll pen wiper. Added
TO the fullness is a stin interlininE besides the