The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1894-04-30


the nervous complaints from (which
women suffer originate in this way.
Nor are men altogether Tree from this
fault of tight lacing. Many wear tight
belts, especially when about to engage in
violent exercise. Rupture may thus be
caused.
Tight cravats are also injurious; the
neck should be loosely clothed. Tight
carriers interfere with the flow of blood
through the veins, and a tendency to
varicose veins results. How great the
influence OF tight clothing is is shown by
a comparisons of the frequency with
which soldiers and sailors suffer from
diseases of the great blood vessels.
Pressure of clothing from its weight
may also act injuriously. The full-how-
ing long skirts are suspended from the
waist which is thus tightly compressed.
LASTLY, tight gloves may cause much
discomfort. There is no more painful
sensation than that produced by wear
ing tightly-ftting pair of gloves on
cold day.-Cassell's Magazine.
Gowns of India Silk.
India silk gowns are especially pretty
with round yoke waists that are partly
gathered, partly pleated, to square
yoke of ecru lace. with epaulettes of the
lace spreading out over the wide sleeves.
Sometimes the silk is gathered to the
lace yoke. either under scallops OF the
lace or with an erect ruffled heading of
the silk and the box pleats are simulat-
ed, one down the middle of the back and
front, the Others going from he belt up
over the shoulders to meet rosette or
shouIder-knot of ribbon. These pleats
are merely folds of the India silk four
inches wide, doubled and sewed inv1si-
bly, on one side, giving the effect of
box pleat. This is lovely in dress of
India silk with heavy blue stripes half
an inch wide alternating with wider
white stripes on which are fern leaves
and blossoms-green, blue and pink.
The square lace yoke is laid over navy
blue silk, it's scallops showing at the
lower edge. Elbow sleeves are of accor-
dion plated navy blue silk in one long
puff, interlined with book muslin to,
make it stand. out, and finished with a
of blue ribbon four inches wide. The
skirt is draped on the left side with blue
rosettes on the hips and a founce of
accord ion-pleated blue silk showing at
the foot of the foundation skirt. A belt
of blue satin ribbon is knotted on the
left side.
Worth makes great use of the charming
anu IEuucu HULA bll MS al udTk COlOrS as
we'll as light, Notwithstanding they have
lost favor in other directions. He chooses
pink and white cross-striped silks with
many cloudy pink and red dashes for
separate waists to be worn with various
skirts, making them full at the belt and
gathered or pleated above to round
yoke that holds row after row around
it of white embroidered vines. on which
are applied at intervals large rose
branches of embroidery. In other waists
he com bines two kinds of India silk, as
plain light blue for the body and for the
sleeve puffs, with festooned draperies on
the bust of another silk, white ground
thickly strewn with pink blossoms and
much green foliage The lowered silk
is also used for the lower part of the
sleeves, where it is drawn around in
many wrinkles. Skirts of India silk
dresses made by Worth are in three tiers,
neither founces nor overskirts but in
triple pointed layers, the lowest pointed
to the foot in front and back, the up
permost gathered slightly to the belt
These layers are very short on the side,
and by way OF trimming zigzag band
of white guipure embroidery edge each
of them. The whole is mounted ON a
taffeta foundation skirt covered smoothly
on the side with India silk, and edged
at the foot with ruche of satin ribbon
three inches wide held lin triple box
pleats. This dress is prettlly shown i'll
navy blue India silk with cross dashes
and lines of white. trimmed with clear
white insertion in points, and navy
blue ruche.
Still other India silks are of light
colors trimmed with black when figured
with black, as one with pink and white
fine bayadere stripes powdered with
small black trefoil designs. These are
made very effective by trimming of
black point d'esprit net in accordion
pleated ruffies that are banded with
many rows of the narrowest black satin
ribbon. Black chiffon waists gathered
or accordion pleated over color are
also effective with light sleeves and
skirts of india silk. The gathered yoke
or guimpe and also vests of chlffron
are used in light colors ana IN black as
they were last year. and are still popular
because so becoming. -Harper's Bazaar.