The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-11-13

tive In bell. curl and curve, the dimen- sions being the same. The changes or fashion are not so radical on the other side. It is quite common there for men to have their own block at their favor ite hatters. and have their hats made from this block for two or three years, with perhaps slight changes In the brim. Hence English hats wear stamp Of sameness from season to sea- son. While-the quality is usually very good, the bodies are heavier and the plush does not have the bright iustre that American hats have.
 Stiff hats continue to be popular, and 1t would seem that the styles and shapes have reached state of perfec- tiop not to be improved upon. The general proportions are little larger than they have been. The tendency is for full crowns. not tapered. There are three distinct dimensions-6A and bh by lx, 1M and inches; 5A by and ,2b nches and 5M and by 2h inches. The brims in all have a heavy rope curl, and the curve Is very decided. all of which give stiff hats more charac- ter than hat brims with little curl.
 Black Is the favorite or, rather, the most popular color. and always, for the reason that 1t harmonizes with any and all suitings, and when man Is not quite certain what color to buy he generally decides on black The colors are more quiet and subdued than last spring. Medium brown, which was very popular early in the spring, was killed by the introduction of still brighter but ugly brown, and both soon went out of use. The best shades this season are seal, Parisian and rus set brown, the band and binding matching the hat. Drab, pearl and hats. The London stiff hats are deci- dedly lower In the crown and have "squatty" appearance, but leading American matters have a large number of customers for London stiff hats, and they order them made in shapes and di- mensions to suit the American taste.
 The Alpine, or tourist hat, grace full and becoming article of mems head gear, seems to have endeared itself to large number of men who are fond of something on the negligee order. It had great sale early in the season, hence this same style in darker shades is introduced this fall, and will certain ly be much worn. Being a crush hat, the crown may be crushed to suit the ciples large, full-faced man can wear a wide brim, and a spare, thin-faced person will look best in hat having the narrow brim, although the wearing of a full beard. side-whiskers, mus tache or clean-shaven face, has much to do in the selection of becoming AL pine or tourist hat. The shades in this style of hat are also seal, Parisian and russet brown and a dark pearl.
 The fashion of wearing scarf-pins in neckties, whether made up or tied knots Is increasing, more particularly since 1t has become "the thing to strike it just below the knot, and not higher up, as formerly. Swords-the blade of gold and the hilt gold with white enamel-are quite new and pret-a ty. Brownie figures, mounted in gold and white enamel, are much sought for. A new design, called "sun:burst," is striking. The ffeur de lis is as pop ular a patternn&s ever, and variety is given by new and artistic mounting of this pretty design. Link sleeve but tons are the only style now much used, though the stud or separate but tons will never quite go out. Dumb bells of pearl with gold shank, the lat ter rigid, are new and pretty. A new device to hold the cuffs at proper an- gle is the "chic' link; the latter is rig i'd, and when adjusted holds the cuffs securely in place; the buttons are of gold and blue enamel. Plain solid gold bars are of a quiet style, rich, yet plain, and are in style. For full dress, white enamel and gold are much used, the link being S-shape, holding the cuffs firm. The club collar button, having gold wire top, is an excellent device for the back of the neck; 1t fastens the neckband of the shirt se- curely, and also prevents the scarfband from sliding over the collar at the back, which is so very annoying and looks so awkward Spiral and button studs are both in style for the shirt bosom.