The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-10-26
THE FASHIONS.

THE FASHIONS.
 The new bonnets for general wear are
 considerably larger than those worn
 last summer. though evening bonnets
 are still the most miniature affairs
 mere headdresses of lace, jewels or
 roses and gold or jet. Some of the
 most effective evening bonnets are of
 the tiniest dimensions. composed of an
 open-work tracing of Strass diamonds
 set in invisible bands of platinum and
 wreathed around the brim with loops
 of black ribbon velvet, which is ar-
 ranged over the forehead in a long
 looped bow caught down on either side
 with cabochon or ball of diamonds
 with large white aigrette on the left.
 These bonnets, simple as they appear,
 are costly affairs, ranging from twen- ty-five to forty dollars in price. Easel
 hating little bonnets are flat crowns of purple roses, dull golden brown roses, | or roses in other conventional colors
 brightened by transparent Psyche
 wings of wrought gold standing on the
 sides and softened by irregular outings
 of creamy applique lace. A feature of all the new millinery is the fitting of the bonnet ito the coiffure. The new bonnets are arranged to fit the high knots of hair now worn, and there are often pendant bows or two hanging TO- settes at the back intended to fit on each side of the coiffure. Or the bonnet is cut or sharply curved up in the cen ter of the crown, so that it comes down on either side of the>twist of hair. The knot of hair no longer projects from the center of the crown, as it did; most of the new bonnets have a distinct crown, though for evening it is often transpa- rent or mere arabesque tracery of Strass diamonds, or gold or steel. Steel is revived as a powerful rival to jet. Some of the most refined and becoming bonnets are small affairs of black vel vet steel beads and point lace, but are put together with that consummate skill of the French milliner which makes them creations" The new Dutch gold bonnets are novel in shape. They are sharp angled Holland caps wrought of transparent gold and span gles, and trimmed with several full little rosette-like bows of black velvet ribbon caught down by small gold buckles around the brim with a large black iagrette and a black rose bow to- ward the left side. Loops of black moire or satin spangled with gold ar ranged in stiff Alsatian bows trim oth- CT small bonnets
 The Marie Antoinette shapes intend ed for more general wear are decided ly larger than the small evening bon nets. They resemble in their full, flat crown and full, waved brim the Tria- non cap of the unfortunate queen. Though intended for midwinter, they are considerably lighter than anything of the kind previously shown for win ter. They are quite often made of braids, woven like straw braid, only the straw is superseded by chenille and flat satin cords. A picturesque bonnet was made of crimson chenille braid, each strand standing up on the low peaked crown. The double brim was Gl, doubled and stiffened, and the bonnet was smartly trimmed with five stand ing clusters of stiff, curling coque plumes jetted on the edge. A charm ing bonnet from Rebeux was of expui- sitely fine black felt, and was wreathed around the low, square crown with ivy leaves and rosettes of ivy-green miroir velvet. A huge standing black loop and ends of knife-pleated, chiffon trimmed the hat at the left side, while the straight brim was not faced, but merely edged underneath with a fancy satin cord. Still another new French bonnet has a shirred crown and a full double brim of black velvet. A soft pun of knife-pleated black chiffon sep- arates the two parts of the brim. The brim is caught up on one side by graceful cluster of black satin ribbon, and on the other side by a large cluster of crushed pink roses, irl.the center of which is a huge ball of Strass diamonds holding black aigrette.
 Some of the new bonnets and smaller English hats with straight projecting brims are trimmed simply with rosettes and black swallows, whose sharp wings and tail feathers project out eccentri- cally on the sides and in every direc- tion like the quills of the fretful porcu- pine. Still other hats of felt or the glossy beaver, which Is again imported, are merely banded with folds of black satin ribbon and trimmed with three rosettes, one of black satin, one of haw- thorn or China pink velvet, and one on the left side of creamy, knife-pleated chiffon, holding . stiff black aigrette. M ThereSare immense hats of black o1 vandyke brown velvet, intended for young ladies or for carriage wear. These hats usually have fat, straight brlrns and peaked or low <sQuare crowns They arc trfmme ed with naaSs. es of black ostrich plsinaes (as many as six plumes being freQuently used on one hat), bows q point -lace caught by diamond buckles or uckle6 of sfeei, and long cravat hows of satin ribbon. 1shnn<, 1iSfA are oof3led airSff3ft fsf,rSS isix