The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-22
A NIGHT In A ROTTEN BONGO
ONE war or COAsTINS hLoNs TEE
IsTHMUs OF PANAMA..

stasks-Nst = Ftrst-olnss nee.
Muiebsck travellers who have written and
printed their experiences invariably complain
Of the varying estimates OF distances they re-
eeive from the natives along their routes In
this respect had very little trouble in the
Journey through 1.-THE Isthmus OF Pans ANA. I can
not say positively that the men Of intelligence
never m sde mistake In estimating the length
~ . days journey. but II thev did so It was in
y-Qard to the road from Rem edios. a town that
appears on all maps OF the Isthmus. to IIor-
concitas. that does not appear even on the
coast charts Issued BY the Americans or the
British, although II 10 q port from which
considerable produce 10 shipped. as The Sun
has told. They said in Rem edios that It was
eight leagues to Horconc itas. but we we're Just
twelve hours in makiuk the journey on strong.
quick stepping m ules that for many miles at a
stretch kept up a swinging pace that was at
least good for four miles an hour on trail as
good as the one we were on. Indeed. we had
but three miles OF poor road in tho whole day.
and that was over a small mountain covered
with broken rock.
The direct route from Rem edlos west-the
old cattle trail-runs by the way OF San Felix
and San Lorenzo. 1t IL said to be almost q
good cart road for most OF the distance. but
went by tho way OF Horconoitas because tho
latter stands on q stretch OF water very much
like the Albemarle Sound and is navigated by
dugouts only.
The route taken was interesting In every
respect, even though lacking in the magnif1-
cent scenery ofthe uplands. 1twound through
q region OF detached hills and mountains. but
was comparatively free from grades The
guide said It would be found alive with Indians
and snakes. Not a snake did we see. but a
plenty OF what would be called In the States
blanket Indians live in that region. Not that
they wear blankets, as some United States
Indians do-the weather is too warm for wool
but they live much as the Six Nations OF New
York used to doom the uncultivated products
OF the wilderness. with little corn and beans
which the squaws raise.
We stopped to talk to one group that we
found camped on the bank OF q creek. The
men all wore shirts OF blue or white cotton.
They had little punches OF pink or red cotton
rs sewed on one breast or the other. for the
same reason that gentlemen in New York put
bright-colored flowers on their lapels. Some
Of the m en- wore cotton trousers. too. but some
had aprons only. The women all wore cotton
dresses made on the model OF night gown.
Among the household goods were the skin
OF u jaguar and tho skin OF tiger cat. mount
cd or set up taxidermist fashion. Nothing but
the skin had been preserved. and there was
no attempt to substitute artificial for tho nat
ural eyes The beasts were posed as II climb
ing up . tree. and when l asked what
they were used for they said in the
festival" Then q big buck picked up
the jagusr by strap fastened under
Its foreegs and suspended It on his back. with
its head partly concealed In his long hair. The
limbs were SO well posed. and there was such
q vicious curve In Its back. It was SO surpris-
ingly like a live beast that had alighted op
teeth In Mis- neck that / shivered involuntari-
The guide said thatitRese Indians gather by
the hundred at their festivals in the villages
their icious-IooEing beasts on their backs,
ana with reed flutes and OK horn buRles In
their hands, and then go marching about the
were heard before. got one Indian to blow
his OK horn. long Tsxas-steerlike affair. The
war trumpet, that i once, heard used By IN
African traveller In Chickering Hall.
woods and entered ioSWed nrar GSI .. Lme
heee prairies had all been fenced In for pas
t s1rss. YanE M sar6ed wire being as abundant
were ut to make a stocknian's eyes snap.
Valley, We rode for miles through this region
Without seeing house; When | asked why
in villages lie was surprised to
earn that people elsewhere In the world pre-
fsrrsd 70 live in houses scattered ND and down
I did not SEQ a single graveyard along this
day's trail. but one lone cross stood on the
which WI" Village The GUIDE . saa SG ss q,
erected over the blood Of man who had been
wi.6 three men whom he employed. and they
pad gone on strike In the most etfectual way
%nr 20 they i.s i ssnRsa;" saidL
:. Hor God. ne g; he replied.
..Jesusi TO Costa Rlca."
We were approaching the border line. There
rallied reDnbies OF the spanish Main, and, once
over the line. the worst character is safe and
sure OF WELCOME from those gone before him.
Although Horcon citas has over / 900 inhab-
very little Of me Appearance Of town about IL
There was wide street rather than regular
plan OF the town might te called an attenuated
Near the centre the walls Of ahuge church in
the form OF 2 cross $50 leet long. had been
then abandoned. and the nearest place OF
Worship Was IN a suburban settlement about
with adobe walls. but the rest OF the town was
IKE mils.l0ng collection OF hay stacks; that
! small iat prairie sarrounded By Ien s
81 he psnPSS the
slight declivlty 10 an arm OF the sea. such as |
south Bay OF Ions, IsIand-a tidal ditch that
md tiny brush TO be found along the tidal |
iitches Oh tno GIeht SOutn lay there was |
! remarkable tangle OF trees-trees that |
we're all roots and branches. There WAS |
hot a tree trunk 10 be distinRuished |
nor could one be sure that any stem he looked |
It was either root OF branch until he followed |
tfor some distance with the eye for every |
root rose high In stem fashion from the mud |
Q Ioin some other root in forming . branch
branches, and from these branches the roots |
reached down to the mud again. In TACT the |
tanks OF this ditch presented the nearest APP |
oroach to a. natural growth net have ever |
'een. but the same trees grow in all the |
'..mPs Of the Pacific coast Of Central America.
. Al, Horeoncitas | stopped with Senior Don |
Lnslio olaSe. whose house was built q
vas = very good thateh. OF the town and |
'ountry around; he said that aRue prevailed
he year through. but In December when the |
,sason changed from wet 70 dry. Vsrybody
vas the height Of the rainy season, and for
light. The months OF July ana August were |
'nly little better. The picture that he drew |
Il the inhabitants OF the place huddled to-
Iethsr IN their grass.coyeTed huIs beside |
moky tres OF wet wood over which they |
hiyered with the ehills OF disease while the |
ain fell remorselessly without was one Of |
liter wretehedness. But everything was
leasant and cheerful about the place In
] arch III was there in March, and the town