The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-10-05
SCENES IN ITALY.
The Music and The WaSherWOmen Of
Nice.

Monte Carlo and It's Gamblers-How
the Italians Treat Their Horses.
Pisa's Leaning Tower and the Fres-
.coes in the Campo Santo.
From the Springfield Republican.
From Marseiles 10 Nice the railway trip
is one of constant delight The Mediter-
raaean on the one hand and rugged, lofty
clifs-often surmounted by some old mon
astery or other structure-on the other
and between the two sloping fields and
fruit trees in full bloom, the soil Of every
shade of rich brown and darx red and Gull
tivated with greatest. care in narrow rib
Dons-a ribbon of greenest grass, alternat-
ing with one of brown or red, and so we
rode along the shores of the blue sea filed
with delight.
Paris is too big, too ponderous for a tired
man. Its distances are appalling, its arch
itecture Overwhelming and one doesn't rest
But Nice is perfect, save one thing-what
Dickens wrote of the staring white of Mar
seiles is truer still of this city. The streets
and sidewalks are whitley" and the
buildings are either white or cream. or
light pink or light yellow, with sometimes
avery light blue. On the first morning /
went down to the quay to see the yacht
race, and found everything so bright that
could not stand it till having purchased a
pair of smoked glasses for 20 confines rs
cents and string TO swing them with
thrown in l. was made comparatively
comfortable thereby. Pretty parks with
fountains, flowers and palms and seats for
tired people; grand villas with well-kert
grounds, gay shop windows, queer people
myself the queerest of all. perhaps
Yesterday l walked many miles to get a
coed idea of the city. Near the center a
deep river. bed cuts the city in twain. The
chAsm is walled up perpendicularly and is
spanned by several stone bridges at least
zoo feet long. In the rainy season a tor
rent must pour through this place, but now
only a small rapid stream finds its way
through the water course. Standing upon
the bridges and looking down stream YOU
see hundreds of women washing clothes in
the stream, women dressed in all Coors
washing clothes of all colors. and spread
ing them upon the smooth, clean powders
which fill the bed between the walls You
see acres Of clothes drying thus, and hun
dreds of eager women washing, ever wash
ing, kneeling in their baskets, and bending
over the stream, every day and all day
How their backs must ache as the great
piles of clothes to be washed gradually di-
minish! But more and more women with
baskets are coming continually and your
heart grows sick
You notice that those farthest up the
stream have the cleanest water when sud
denly the sickening thought comes. is il
possible that my clothes a G washed here!
Ny handkerchief, towel, napkin' You re-
fuse to believe it, yet fear to look lest you
might recognize something belonging to
you, yet you mentally resolve to wear your
undercloLhing till it drops off, preferring
TO endure the dirt you have than to run the
risk of that you know not of. Yes you re.
fuse to accept il, yet you 20 back to your
room and rinse out your towel and hand
kerchief in clean water and then smell and
sniff them with comfort.
In my walk yesterday I went over to the
pretty little harbor where all the yachts
tie up Vanderbilt's famous steam Yacht
was there and, of course, is the largest and
finest of them all But all of them are
splendid. / must tell r. that as his wood
rims attract attention so do mine, for none
were ever seen here before and then my
brake - everybody wants to handle it.
While it (the wheel is at the station wait
ing for train crowds of excited French
men get around IL and dispute about it in
language that no man can understand
least of all themselves as is proved by
their actions. But I'm bound to say that
they handle it as gently and treat it as re-
spectfully as II 1t were frail glass and its
owner an emperor,
l can never sit down to write but-as at
this moment-some sweet singer or singers
with guitars or other instruments take po-
sltion in front of the windows and sing in
tenderest strains. The grounds in front of
Jnls Motel are senitropical and enchanting
to any but blind people, and even they, if
NOT deprived of smell, might think them
selves IN Paradise. Shaded seats, little
tables in quiet hooks All how that sing
er's voice makes the chills go down my
back!
IfTwero 80 years old only, I would work
hard save every dollar and buy a villa
here. did not expect to more than half
IKE this Riviera country, but / do wonder
FULLY well. The Maritime Alps come down
10 the sea, making beautifully indented
shore line with frequent fine natural har-
oors between the headiands, and at every
such point nestles most charming villa or
town. Thus we have the mount and
sea always in sight whichever way we
turn. The beauty Is indescribab Bile Every
thing clean and sweet. Great beds of
splendid flowers without the slightest pro
lection in all public places, which are nu-
merous. Nobody, not even children, med
dies with them. though no notice SAYS
Touch mott No one goes on the grass,
though there are no warning signs, We
are living in "Rue Rossinin at Hotel
Geneve. Walking not far from here the
other day, where several streets meet, upon
glancing up saw Rue Gouuod," Rue
Verdi, y "hue Meyerbeerp ! did not dare
look on the other corners, lest / should
break out into song, and there are soldiers
tFerXWDere mere, ana Wnen sing 90 not
want to be interfered with.
The other DAY 1 rode my wheel out to
townscalled Var, making trip of seven
teen miles. Some of the grades are so easy
that you may coast at little greater speed
than a walk for long distance. Yester-
day we took cars for Monaco and Monte
Carlo Monaco is little villa built on a
high promontory, with fine drive up to it,
winding under its browning hills. AT the
top also is the palace of the prince who is
owner of the principality of Monaco and
Monte Carlo. They are close together and
the latter is the most noted gam bling place
ID the world as well as one of the most
beautifui. We went into the great casino
wnere the gambling was going on. 1t is a
splendid BUILDING surrounded with grounds
mat are as enchanting as money can
possibly make them, and on one side is the
sea and on the other thef mountains.
We had to submit 10 close scrutiny before
we could pass into the gaming rooms, as no
resident is ever allowed In there We found
splendid rooms, ana l counted in the va
rlous apartments eleven tables with fifty or
more men and women around each one
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