New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-09-23
AUTUMN GOWNS.
THE NEWEST sTYLEs-THE TREMENDOUS
SLEEVE

THE NEWEST STYLES-THE TREMENDoCo
SLEEVE.
You will be quite correct. says an authority o."
dress II YOU have your new autumn COSTUME
made with velvet bodice. and skirt ana sleeves VI
heavy crepon. The former may be direct con-
irast 20 the latter II you wish, or Oh '"e s'''
color and tint although of such diverse material
yelvo, hodices will undoubtedly be one OF the
features OF the coming season. and VIII DC maue
without sleeves the latter almost invariaDiy mater"
ing the skirt.
Despite the efforts OF the French dressh'ah.''
overskirts are coming in but slowly ana very te"
women will consent give up the coinior'apie
straight skirt which Is equally becoming 10 ia'
and Thin tail and short for the heavy drapery 'ha
seems so unnecessary. For evening anu ho"'
dresses overskirts may be made very graceiu an
effective but for walking costumes they are r''"'
testify inappropriate. very pretty oVerShr' o' az
evening gown IL cut the same length In 'front.' anu
hack az the under petticoat and considerably long
pr an the sides the fulness being caught up q"
either side with a ribbon roset'e In uiaiha"o"'
material this simple arrangement ~ pa'"'"'"'''
pretty All sleeves In Paris are simply enormous
no other word meets the case
Ou,te a number OF new fall dresses were worn
az a golf tournament the other day. seVera' ..
which were noticeably pretty. one particularly. OF
leaf-green silk crfpon. was made WIN I"' pa"
narng skirt with three tiny ruhies arouhd t"e Nv"
and a tight fitting bodice with simulated basque
the effect being produced by two straight maps set
over the hips on either side. Horizontal pleats OF
green mousseline De sole were laid across the "p
nor mar, OF the waist and extending ten inches
over either sleeve, he'd In place over 'he
shoulders by folded bre,ees OF eornhower Dine 'e
vet. These. on reaching the waist IN 'front.' paSSeu
under the before ment toned tabs on either s'de anu
then continued down each side seam OF the fH"'
IN within about fifteen inches Of the hem. whe'e
each is finished with large full bow with droop
ing ends 4 gupure collare,te finishes the neck
which is trimmed with two green moussehhe w
sole rosettes. on each side The sleeves nav
two large puffs to the elbow. anl are worn with
long yellow suede gloves.
To be we'll dressed nowadays a woman must
carry ont the idea Of her costume in It's entirety
pe,ticoat stockings and part OF the gown
should all match. All this detail obviously requires
both time and money. and II IS no easy matter TOT
woman to live up to the modern standard IN gown
ing herself not one woman IN hundred benz
really well turned out from top TO toe
Feet remain forever young-looking. as rule
and a woman OF sixty may have as dainty look
ING foo, and ankle as a girl OF twenty. "Muffe mp
at the throat and shorten AT the ankle, IS 'h'S
say one OF Nine. Rccamer's maXms for as'ns
beauties: for while the feet are sill yon'hiu'E
pretty ne ihTo2i is Az az no nv faahon os the
high stocks OF vevet or satin, showing no M y.
women who are past their prime. for they accentu
ate every wrinkle OF the throat and sho" on
gins in The twentes even who have threats sum
GENTLY fresh full and rosy TO bear ne les, %, 'hr
There viii certainly be stronger attempt later
to introduce bouifant fashions the panier ana 'he
The beau;ifui picturesque fashions OF the time OF
Vandykcs portraits furnish new motif Tor de-
s pntred sl.eves and close holice with rs
sweep Of rich lace turned back from ne tnroat ah
he snncay oH infinitely c9ped FOR the tendency OF
oil y,
The use ~ he richest handmade iacs Is predicted
FOR the coming winter. They are NJ longer pug on
full bu; are iail nat IN smart. .we"png c'.lars
coming straight from the throat the shoulders
and fsling over The huge s.ceyes Nearly d.. The
new boIices whether ~ SIX or WOO. are hn'Shrl
.nca THINNING The nigh. clos stock coiar il re
tanned the throa; ana III IA: col.sr IS sia"i 30
20 tho neck back and front. and Som.mes cl9sr -
he neck at he BACK sTi ,TcS,e sl III Of cron or
some son. Hight material. and Is arranged ''ragn'
a5oun the iGJoa' eS'% %hf ns bss ashci The of
stock collar az the back f. retained. Or II Is Replace
Dy du'' W,r an 70 eacb T. s5rnsimrs ful 70
se,te- OF velvet are used al the sile o' me sock
collar bui these not - graceful as the simple
Fiat pias,ron. Of ace ana nat trimmings q all
,hnf ,her. shoul! b, no Irap.ry below the bus Inc
- Interfere with the perfectly smooth ~ ~ me
o 4 ' Do sw a Win ihc nscesy q ofcses and
full epau-ts of lace falling over them.
The new s.eeves are All .arger han AWNING We
have sen before. ami more nearly approd,h ~"
grent leg mutton sleeves % our great sranAm"'h
ers at the time when his portion % ne dress was
pillows Of down. Though he double balloon pun IS
teen on some gowns. the larg" inhJoflN "l $50
are gigot shane and are cut in one piece Win the
seam on the inside Sometimes The nuse top ~ me
sleeve shirrei In cluster 81 shlrrhg' r,aehl ing
IS NOR 0,,s a., tuTn.Ghack cavalier cuNs and
,b.M .lfc cun % the
htG,css some Of the prc,tiest French models for
combination OF SIX AMI wool show a c.osey ntunE
bodice OF nne cloth. win purel y?ke am 'm, ~,
the front and back OF tho cors,ee crossing the pun
yoke the effect OF straps stitched Gown 20 H. Inc
back part and sides Of The bodice are "HtnIcl oe9w
the waist to form bounani hiuc basque. IN"
sweeping skirt q the gown is held IN double box,
pleats on each side OF the front breadth ana mas
some Of most graceful Of the new skirts have aye
a slight movement" Of pleats, coming from me
belt far back on hc hPo most ana grs sTnf skr,s has
OF p rser Of pl~atlmrs Inserted in The seam
on each side Of the front breadth.
shoulders without bounancy liz exceedingly popular
because 1t can be worn without crushing me large
Scotch chcviot. lined with bright Scotch plaid
silk II Is popular cape Tor golf costumes anu h
, now nanes IT, is large enough to cover consider
able portion Of the skirt the ne" coats are con on.
most popular pattern is the pesse. closely fitted
coat extending TO within about twelve h h"s,. o,
coat. with square revers. turned back from the
throat huge full sleeves with naring cum, ana a
girllc of black satin This pelisse may Je maze
either in velvet or cloth. Ii has a collar standing
very high al the back and white INSIDE revers
Of cloth or silk. turned back over the square revers
Of the pellsse itself Hence 1t takes its name OF
the Napoleonic coat. Either fine smooth broad,
cloths or exceedingly rough fancy cloths are used
for coats. .,.-,, ,o
FUR trimmings passe and plain stitched edges
ire used on all cloth gowns and coats. The revival
OF entire suits OF jacket and skirt made alike OF
the same material In fashion similar to the serge
thero
scotch homespuns and heavy chcvots In shades
Of brown will be the favorite materials for these
u,efuI gowns and they will be made In the severest
tailor style. with pleatings introduced In
the bodice and faring skirt. but with plain stitched
edges.
A MAGNIFICENT DITAN
An odd niece OF furniture In the studio OF we'll