The morning call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1878-1895, 1894-12-15
FOR THE TABLE.

The appearance Of the markets is much the
same to-day that it was last week-game so
plentiful that 1t would seem that onr marshes
must be tenantless. Canvasback ducks are
retaining at from 20 cents 10 81 apiece, mai
Iaros at the same price per pair, and sprigs are
selhng Tor 20 cents each. This duck is better
looking and sometimes larger than the mallard
when both are reduced TO their skin covering.
and lis flavor Is quite as satisfactory to the
average consumer Of game. lis skin is thick
and white, and the bird at this season is plump
and really more attractive Ia appearance than
almost any other al The pouIterers counter. II
Is cooked exactly as either OF its more expen-
sive cousins.
IL Is well not TO plan for duck dinner on
mondays, as on that day no steamers arrive
mere from The river with their feathered con-
slgnmentS; and tie profits of the huntsman do
not allow Of ills shipping in any other way than
as freight. Quail are high this year, rarely
dropping below 81 dozen, and dealers proph-
eSy higher prices still. as Tie birds are unfor-
tunately becoming scarce.
Tomatoes are fewer than last week, but as
paragus Is improving in quantity II not in quail
ity, aud sells for % cents pound Mushrooms
too are more plentiful aud are offered at %
and 30 cents q pound. Fish is 10 be had al ali
pTices-sea bass for % cents pound salmon.
COD and young sturg on for s or 10 cents, and a
good-siZed plump snad can be had for 20 cents
daloUt. bass and sturgeon can be used ia
almost any way-fried. boiled or baked. For
The latter manner OF cooking a tail piece is
besI. where the whole fish is too larc. 10 be
available. The bone must be removed and the
aperture filled with a rich stufing; then re-
move the skin and tie buttered paper over the
cut end OF the fish, lay slices of fat salt pork
over the top OF the fish, which must be placed
III but cred pan and little sailed water
poured over IL. Fish has so little moisture Of
lis own that the merit of baked one depends
upon Its being carefully basted during he time
Il Is cooking. II eTusty dish is wished,
sprinkle the FISH thcky with fine breaderumbs
well peppered; bake in hot oven and serve
With slices OF lemon.
Goldfish, not having much flavor OF its own,
requires more careful preparation than the fish
which is caught in deeper waters. II is not
good when plainly boiled, but needs TO be en-
riched with sauces, etc, III order 10 be on
level Will other white nsh. For boiling, the
hsn may be either In one piece or Ia slices, and
IL should be put GU TO cook in cold water that
the outside may no, be done before the center,
as in that event the fish Will be broken aud IN
slightly. Drain the cod from tie water IN which
il WAS DOIIed-Whlch should have been SaiIed
and aciduiated ana pour over 1t a we'll
seasoned oyster sauce. Any bits which are
left over may be picked small ana put in
scallop shells, Predetermined aud baked for
next days lunch
But better than boiling IN water is the French.
method calico "au court bOuillon," which is
merely very weak stock favored with onions,
celery and carrot a few cloves and glass of
wine or vinegar. The fish is allowed to SIM
mer very slowly in this preparation till il is
done, when IL can he served with any appro-
pirate sauce. For cod HollaudaIse sauce is
usually preferred. This is made by beating
the yelks Of three eggs, the juice OF small
lemon and lump Of butter the size Of an egg
till all are well blended then set the bowl in a
saucepan OF hot wafer ana beat with a Dover
egg beaten till all is yellow frOth, add three
tablespooBfuls Of boiling water. a little cayenne
and some salt. ana beat again till the sauce Is
thick as eustard, when It Is ready 10 serve.
This sauce IS considered as unsurpassed as an
accompaniment 10 a hot broiled steak, or with
slices of fish cut in strips, seasoned. sprInkled
with -four. then rolled In beaten egg and finally
in sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and frisd
brown in deep fat The fat in which the fish is
fried cannot, Of course, be used for any other
purpose, as 1t VIII have taken strong flavor.
but il can be strained and used several times
for frying fish, and can eventually be clarified
and turned into the soup-ketIle which all eco
. nomical housewives keep close al hand.
There are TWO or three ways OF cooking fish
Which seem particularly suited 10 cod. They
are not very elaborate, but make excellent
lunch dishes or entrees. One of these ways is
20 cut head and tail from the nsh and remove
the skin, or better stu get The dealer 10 do all
this for you, as he Knows better how to avoid
pricks from the myriads OF bones that fringe
every inch Of the Gods outline. The fish must
next be cut in half along the line of the back
bone and then cut in strips as long as your
finger and twice as broad. These pieces may be
laid In an owl dish, which has been well but
tered, and made very moist with 2 sauce made
by thickening a cup of soup stock with FOux
consisting of one tablespoonful OF butter, well
mixed wiki IN equal amount OF -four Let this
sauce cook for few minutes and aGd about
. half pound Of mushrooms cut in pieces, a
little salt, some cayenne an d two tablespoon
fuls OF sherry. After this has been poured over
the fish, sprinkle it we'll with sifted bread
crumbs and bits Of butter; then bake for
nearly half an hour in q moderate oven. II the
flavor Of onion is liked, add 10 the sauce tea
spoonful of the grated article.