Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1894-10-04

NEW TEA JACKETS.
ON the hip. There was a vest front of
mauve chiffon and a jabot bertha cape
of the same The sleeves were Of mauve
silk muslin under others of the silk. The
under sleeves were plated and had ruff
fies falling over the forearm, the whole
being finished off with small bow of
ribbon at the front and back of the
waist This can be worn with any kind
of skirt except magenta or solferino.
Another novel idea for tea jacket is
Of golden brown taffeta glace, with two
tones-black and gold. 1t is cut like
close coat basque, with full skirt about
Is inches deep. The sleeves reach lit
tie below the elbow and are finished
with fall Of lace. There is a yoke
simulated by narrow gaufferings Of the
silk, and below that is deep bertha of
lace extending quite around the shoul-
ders and falling in full jabot at the
front, reaching to the bottom. A high
collar Of the silk has lace frill droop-
ing over it. This one is well adapted to
the requirements of rather elderly ladies,
though still quite suitable for the young
er ones. Young ladies can wear any
thing and do not have to choose so care
fully as elder ones, for whom there is a
more limited number Of appropriate
colors and garments.
Another stylish tea jacket was made
Of Glove red silk crepon in two distinct
shades, and it was made up SO as to
have the ridges run diagonally. The
back was plated Norfolk style. Under
wide belt of chestnut brown silk, which
closed with a bow of grosgrain ribbon
Of the same color in front The sleeves
were dropping puffs, the larger end be-
ing at the bottom. The deep cuffs were
overlaid with heavy white Russian lace,
and there was a simulated plastron of
the same in the neck. The front of the
jacket was gathered slightly, and there
were two wide box plaits hanging from
beneath the lace. On the shoulders were
bows of ribbon above q row Of the lace.
The whole jacket was very simple in
reality and one that could be easily
made, while at the same time it has a
very dressy appearance. That is great
thing to know in the making Of gar
ment, and just such result from small
causes marks the real artist
The beautiful new wraps for very
fashionable ladies are now shown spar
ingly, and they are really marvels in
their way. saw one made of cherry
satin, covered with a rich pattern Of
black chantilly, a rather heavier design
than usual for that lace. The edge of
the lace extended a trifie below the edge
of the satin. Over the whole there was
black velvet collar, which extended
into stolelike tabs, though not exactly
down the front. These were faced with
velvet and turned back on the corners
and bordered on all the edges with sill
yer braid and silver twist and having
fine outline pattern worked with fine
cut jet beads. The collar was plain, save
for the cord and braid around the edges
The cape was lined with black satin
Thus the three richest fabrics-lace,
satin and velvet-are combined i'll this
mantle, which can be worn in the street
if the rest Of the costume is handsome,
but it is intened more for visiting gar
ment.
may mention the balance Of the cos
tune worn with this. There was hat
Of black satin straw, bent upward and
covered with bluets The dress was of
gray and bluet hairline poplin, with
turret pattern in narrow black velvet
ribbon and one of bluet grosgrain Of the
same width all around the skirt The
bluet or cornfower color will be the
rage this season, though becoming to
but few.
A new idea is presented in another
wrap, which might also be called Pc
lisse. There is long princess shaped
wrap without sleeves, reaching quite to
the Iottom of the black dress 1t is
made Of heavy black rep. Down the
front on each side are placed two rows
of the new heavy lace, with embossed
embroidered wheels. The cape is very
full sprung military, cut to sharp points
in front and trimmed with the same
kind Of lace. There is a squarish collar,
likewise trimmed and ornamented down
the front with handsome jet trimming
and jet fringe. There is ruff Of cream
colored ostrich tips at the neck There
are no sleeves, so that the dress sleeves
show The cape is Of the same material
as the rest, and it is lined with maize
taffeta shot with black. The bonnet is
of braided felt, gray and very pale
green, with black plumes.
Sleeves will remain very nearly the
same, though there is a movement to
make them more voluminous- Some Of
them are draped SO much that it re-
quires almost as much material to make
the sleeves as the skirt. Gigot sleeves
are often draped in jabot fashion on the
shoulder and wrinkled all the way down
to the wrist This latter fancy gives the
wearer the appearance of wearing some
one else's clothes, and that some one
much larger person thar the wearer.
The incroyable revers seem to have
sprung up again like a Jack-in- -the-box
and to have become part Of the au-
tumn style, and they are stylish with
out being very difficult or expensive,
though they can be made costly and
often are by being made of heavy vel
vet. In some suits there are revers made
in sets Of four. The two under ones are
little wider than the upper ones, and
they are of rich velvet, and the smaller
ones are OF silk, either ribbed or moire.
Sometimes these are trimmed with fine