The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1894-08-09

MODELS FOR FALL AND WINTER BoNNErs
tircly dcadcn sound they make sounds to
seem i'm different directions, and they come
out so far over the face that the eye cannot
catch a half backward glance at an APP
pronching danger. Besides they are any
thing but pretty,
had a private view this week of some
models Of fall and early winter designs |
must pronounce them the ugliest creations
of the century. Those for early fall are OF
horsohair and straw mingled In fancy open
work patterns, with notChed and scallopcd
edges, and with similar edge projecting
all around the crown and setting upward
at an angle Of about 40 degrees. Around
this crown plain ribbon is drawn, ana
1t ends on each side with small bow
without ends The ribbon is then carried
on forward and ends in strings to tie he
meath the chin. Directly on the top Is set
a small bunch of flowers, sometimes of
one kind and sometimes Of several kinds,
among series of loops of ribbon. Inside
the brim is putting or elaborate stirring
of illusion or crepe lisse. The whole bon
net is lined with ncapolitan silk in the
same color as the puilingS, and this shows
family through the opCnwOrk
l have been thus particular in describing
this bonnet as the form is the model for
nearly all the bonnets for next season,
though there will naturally be some modi-
fications. ShTcd bonncts made over
foundation will also be seem but made in
this form, which is called the Marie
Louise. These are Of surah, china silk or
satin, and they are shirred over bamboo
reeds in fauciful pattern, such as clusters
of stirring, fiat or with one part raised
like rutllc. Clusters of four or five mar
row shirrs with reeds inside are set to
gether on each side of a space perhaps an
inch wide, but they are all arranged So
that the edge shows a double rutlle. some
have capcs, and some have none.
There win be velvet bonnets made shir
red, folded and plain In the latter case
the velvet Is drawn smoothly over a stiff
foundation, and the edges are finished off
with pipings of satin, sometimes as many
rs five colors or shades being represented
Tho inside is sometimes smoothly faced
with silk or satin and sometimes shirred
or pulled. Much good Judgment should
be used in the choice of this face trim
ming as the color comes so close to the
skin and in such an uncompromising
plainness that it would be fatal to beauty
if a wrong color was chosen. Turquoise
blue is always becoming to blue eyed Ia
dies, and pink in its flesh tints as well as
maize to brunettes. There are also several
brown shades and one or two greens that
certain compilations can bear, but white
will prove becoming to ALL even the most
sallow These bonnets cannot be graceful
nor yet beautiful but they will be worn,
and we cannot help it, but though l may
often be called upon to describe them my
fountain pen shall dry up forever before l
will call them anything but ugly things.
There is another style of bonnet, which
we might call "a hat If we We're chartably
disposed, which has a very widc front
brim and narrow back, with "A medium
crown This is trimmed, and will be all
through the fall, with brocaded or cheney
ribbons in largo bows and twisted drap-
cry. They have strings which bring the
sides of the flexible brim down to the ears
when tied under the chin, and this throws
the front up poke fashion. These two
shapes are the models upon which all OF
the new fall and winter head coverings
will be made. Try to reconcile yourselves,
my sisters, for the fiat has gone forth,
and we must accept the dispensatiun.
There are among the women Of today
two classcs-thosc who follow blindly ev-
cry new style, no matter how outre it may