Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1894-12-05
A DEBUTANTE'S DRESS.
Dame Fashions Laws Are Exceed
ingly Strict as to Its
Every Detail.

and one had better forego the pleasure of
any particular entertainment than not to
try to conform to the correct style.
According to the laws of social eti-
Quette, the calling season in town does not
begin until this month. One markedly
ing, the chief features of which are a pref
ty bonnet and a rich wrap. Very often
this suit in particular is an imported one.
A Paris calling costume has the skirt made
of a rich fabric, in which silk and velvet
are interviewer with faille ground of red
cleaning through the black The waist is
a happy combination of the material, red
mouSseline de sole and black satin ribbons.
The cape is of black velours du nord, with
q shorter shoulder cape jetted all over and
edged with black ostrich tips. The Med
ici's f1aring collar is composed entirely of
small tips, and is, of course, left slightly
open to show the becoming red velvet
stock beneath.
These costly capes, or collets, as the
French call them, seem to be the accepted
garments for calling trips. They are jaun-
ty, fancy and convenient. They do not
crush like coat the elaborate waist I'M
derneath. The calling cape shown is Of
black velvet with a fancy collar and ruffie
of plated chiffon and Vandyke point trim
mings. Small capotes or bonnets are Sc
lected to accompany calling costumes. The
gloves worn are pearl glace kid. Muffs
toilets.
The debutante is a decided feature of
all social gayeties during this month and
quite naturally prefers to make her first
courtesy to society at an evening dance
rather than an afternoon tea. The laws
are very strict concerning every detail
of her dress, which are quite different
from those of her sister. who has been
out a season or two. Her dress for dane
ing may flare to six yards IN width at
foot, but must only touch the floor. For
dinners she must wear high waist, but
for afternoon tea or evening dance she
may wear a decollete corsage, which, as a
rule, is of chiffon, the skirt being of silk.
White is accepted for the debut gown,
second one of pink being ready to alter
nate with this for the gayetleS likely to
follow in her behalf. A pretty coming
out dress in white has the skirt of MORE
striped with satin. The fchu drapery is
of white silk muslin and the rutt1ed col
larette is bordered with two rows of
white satin ribbon. The belt, chouX and
bow knots are of pink velvet. The pulled
sleeves are of MORE with velvet bands.
White net streWn with raised embroidered
spots in white silk is pretty material for
a debutanteS gown. This is very effect
i've trimmed with yellow satin ribbon or
yellow velvet.
During the early winter festivities the
young matron may be said to dominate
the drawing room. Special elegant cos
TUNES are designed for her afternoons at
home or for her more formal receptions.
A youthful, Frenchy dress for a young
married woman when receiving informal
~ is made with a jacket corsage opening
over a vest of accordion plated mousse
line de sole. The skirt is of bright fig
ured brocade and the jacket is finished
with q large square collar, trimmed with
lace The elbow sleeves are completed
by a wide ruffie Of lace. The coat in
some shape is a feature of Partisan re-
ceptiOn gowns. A very elegant model
has a skirt of yellow peau de sole with
a golden brown Louis XIV. coat, trimmed
with paSSementerie and opening on a satin
vest The elbow sleeves terminate in
satin cuffs and lace ruffies. Such a decid-
ed historical costume is worn by madame
only in her own home.
The popular reception dress is a modif-
cation of this elaborate coat costume The
skirt may be of crepon, brocade or figured
silk, with a velvet bodice. In the design
illustrated the skirt material is a fancy
crepon, the coat basque IS a bright blue
velvet, edged with embroidered bands A
narrow belt fastens with a choice gold
buckle.
Velvet costumes are quite regal looking
and promise to be much worn. Among
the fancies are deep, rich colored velvets,
trimmed with gulpure points. Again the
leaf applique designs or with arabesques
in gold paSSementerieS.
RedingOte coats are getting to be more
and more prominent as outside garments
They are decidedly smart looking on good
figures and are made for the most part of
satin-fnished cloth, with little or no trim
ming, except the velvet-faced collar.
Those who desire something a bit eXclu-
Sive, having tired of the cape and jacket,
find the long redingote satisfactory. The
beauty OF this coat depends on the quality
of the cloth, the fit and finish, some of
the more elegant ones being lined with
delicate brocades. What a satisfaction it
is to fastidlous woman to show a silken
lining when she opens her coat or lifts
her dress skirt.
Ostrich tips promise to be more popular
this winter than flower sprays for evening
c0rsage garniture. In case of a fine pink
silk muslin decollete waist a cluster of
fine pink tips Ornamented each shoulder
with q larger cluster in front of the cor
sage. Fur is also used to outline low
neckS.
The boas on the new French hat have
York Tribune They no longer lie
demure and flat, but stand erect. Alas
for the amateur milliner who imagines
that she can match the air of one Of these
bonnets! There is as much skill displayed
in posing each of the pointed loops and
ends that go to make each bow, as was
once displayed in placing the feather or
cluster Of roses. The bow is now the i'm
portant part of trimming in ali millinery,
and the cluster of roses or the bunch of
plumes on large hat seem to be added
merely as secondary trimming or as a
balance. The wing effects on Paris hats
or bonnets is still seen, but it is less COM
pact than last year. The big hats are
particularly pretty worn over wandering
waves and tendrils, which, fluffy as
they are, must be glossy and untangled.
A bit of Russian sable is added to some
of the new evening bonnets that have been
made up in petuna pink satin, of that
deep, lustrous quality now used by mil
liners. An evening bonnet in coquelicot
red, has full brim, composed of three
pleatings of velvet. 4 black ostrich
feather and an aigrette complete the gar
niture, and there are ties of narrow black
velvet, though it is the exception, rather
than the rule, for the winter bonnets to
have strings. Virot sends over the most
fascinating hats this season in turquoise