davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1894-01-21

mere. The bud and the young girl pos
itively shonld not wear silks, velvets or
brocades ct any time. nor should her
gowns be trimmed with fur, nor should
shs wear fur, save. perhaps, an ermine
''beastie" about her neck. She should
never wear black unless in mourning.
Her hats for the street are either natty.
round, close affairs, or very large and
simply trimmed cspelines. Such can
not be too simply trimmed for the young
girl, but for the bud q degree of pictur-
esqueness may be allowed.
Perhaps the one upon whom the very
least restriction falls is the young ma
tron, and, by the way, woman is a
young matron as long as she retains her
youthful figure, not even gray hair in
terfering If the face be young and the
figure tain. She may wear brocades,
velvets, silks and bullion-wrought it's
sues. All such heavy goods are cum
ningly combined with delicate lace,
chiffon or tulle, the figure is trinity
fitted and there 10 much detail. She
may wear almost anything, but she
must affect neither simplicity of mate
rial or cut; these the bud may call her
own. She may use all colors, but is
likely to avoid eminence and all shades
iof magenta. She will use fur profusely.
She may follow the fashion to its ex-
treme and have eleven cores to her
skirt II she likes, and let her gown slip
away off her shoulders, If she will. She
may wear her skirts dancing length"
whenever that suits her, or her gowns
The herald., 1894-01-21
WOMAN'S WORLD.
FEMALE SUFFRAGE AS VIEWED by
SOME NOTED CANADIAN DANES.

Now He Appreciates ia Sheer Resented.
Practical Hints In accomplishing
Man Fashion-white stocbings-stimy
SEARCHED Skirts.
1t is instructive to read the obiec-
tions to female suffrage made by Cana
dian women in our esteemed contempo-
rary, The Coin du Fen of Montreal, for
the reason that they are just the kind
of objections to it that used to be made
in this country 20 or 80 years ago.
Nine. Chapleau says that women ought
to reign in the home, while men ought
to attend to tho government. Nine.
Marchand says that wo&hen have not
the opportunity of studying complicated
political questions, and so must seek 20
gain an influence like that OF the women
of the gospels. Nine. Desjardins has
no other ambition than the happiness
of her family, and willingly leaves the
franchise to her husband. Nine. Dan
durand believes that women are most
free when the public business is trans
acted by men. Miss Cowan does not
desire that women shall have the privi-
lege of voting, as even men abuse that
privilege. Other Canadians who were
interviewed on the subject by The Coin
du Ecu said that women should keep
away from the noise of politics, and
that the family circle should be saved
from political pollution, and that wom-
anly virtues would be lowered in poll
tics, and that the ideal of womanhood
is apart from politics, and that women
ought to be coAtent with their lot as
the angels Of the home. Lady Aber-
deem said that lin her capacity as wife
of the governor general of Canada" she
preferred to refrain from expressing any
opinion on the question.
Yes, these Canadian objections to
woman suffrage are just like the Amer
lean objections to it that used to be
urged years ago. All of them are very
familiar to everybody in this country
who has taken any interest in the de-
bate on the subject. Yet the cause of
woman suffrage has advanced in many
of the states and has gained COM
plete victory in at least two of the pro-
gressive states of the Astounding west.
We are not aware that womanhood has
ceased to flourish on account of that
success, New York Sun,
The herald., 1894-01-21

near the waistiine the ribbon VIII con-
ceal IT. A ruffle of different material
will seem to lengthen the skirt. Both
these can be worn without corsets, and
are very easy if there is any fullness in
the skirt.
When a basque has done good serv-
ice, rip it apart and make an UNDER
waist ont of the lining. This will serve
to keep the underclothes clean while
doing homework. The lining of skirts
can be utilized by making into aprons.
They are great saving, as they are
easily washed, require no starching and
not much ironing. Stockings that are
past repair can be roughly sewed to-
gether and make acceptable scrub
cloths. If you cannot use things your
self, do not keep them to look at, but
give them TO some one less fortunate.-
Minneapolis Housekeeper.
The herald., 1894-01-21
White Stockings.

Next to the threatened return of the
crinoline, the revival which is making
the most sensation in fashionable circles
is the return of white stockings. For
months past there have been various
prophecies and not a few announce
ments of the coming of this revival
But for various reasons, and possibly
the good sense of women, with the ex-
ira expense OF white stockings, which
must be changed more frequently than
colored ones, the coming has been post
poned. Dark hosiery has had long
span of life, and a remarkable one,
when it is remembered that in former
times only servants wore colored stock
ings. 1t was not until the end of tie
last century that a lady of fashion en-
deavored to introduce black stockings
into vogue, and she did not succeed
Even now there are many dainty and
elegant ladies in France who never wear
colored stockings, but leave them to their
servants. Without doubt black ard
colored stockings will be worn for walk
ing out of doors all through the winter
months, but by next summer those near
the throne announce that white stock
ings will be universally worn where
money is no Object and laundry bills
are beneath consideration. Fashion
journal.
The herald., 1894-01-21

goods. They are, however. in delicate
wool, the entire length of the
pattern being deeply bordered
with openwork and lace. Other
pattern dresses have border heavily
crusted with crystal design. This effect
is obtained in new way, the designs
being marked by glittering dust, set off
now and then by sequin. The orna-
menting Is beautiful, but not calculated
to wear well. When carried out in the
more delicate materials the effect is be-
wildering. A tulle powdered with crys-
tai dust in cashmere colors is thing to
dream Of, or, better still, to wear and set
other people dreaming.
A more youthful example than those
OF the fret three pictures is the subject
OF the fourth sketch. 1t is made from
very pals pink China silk, set off bv
battlemented vest fronts and epaulettes.
Cascades OF tiny frilIs fall from the
shoulders, and there are ruches of coffee
colored lace at wrists and throat. The
bodice is easily changed to low one,
with or without long sleeves. or the
yoke and sleeves now seen can be re-
placed by transparent ones.
Liberty scarfs are much worn: 40.
tuOf hfo nCohtu 1uhut VI lSQStln OF single
width crepon in delicate color. These
lengths are finished at the ends with a
fril OF real lace or the entire length il
striped with parallel rows of baby rib.
bon, the ends of the ribbon forming a
fringe at the end Of the scarf. scarfs Of
this kind are very picturesque. One
especially lovely is made OF creamy
crepon and striped with baby ribbon
in delicate shades with here and there a
line OF scarlet. These scarfs are eithar
long enough to reach the hem OF the
gown, or if such q length proves too
much for the graceful management Of
the novice wearer, q waist length will
do. Dainty scarfs are made OF wash
blond, the ends being finished with
many croas rows of insertions and a
final frilI of lace. Another idea for
scarf is piece of half
inch satin ribbon, finished on either
edge with very full edge OF lace. Such
scarf passes twice about the throat.
he ends hanging to either eide of the
shoulder. Gowns are being worn 90 low
that some rich relief ia needed. and
The herald., 1894-01-21
A Sheer Resented.

What the writer evidently consider
ed Touchdown argument was publish
ed lately at the expense of women vot-
ing when, as was sneeringly asserted,
more than one girl had been questioned
as to the term of Office of a member of
the legislature, for instance, and could
not tell how long it lasted. The au-
thor of this singing satire seemed to
forget that there are women and women
as we'll as men and men. Moreover, it
is not so very strange that question
which does not bear upon them, while
they are not voters, should be pushed
aside by other matters that do come in
contact with their daily lives.
One woman who has, from lifelong
connection with newspaper Office, be-
come pretty we'll acquainted with poll
tics, is astonished, on her part, by the
profound ignorance of the average man.
Yet she does not, on that account, be-
heve that none Of them should be allow
ed to vote. Those of us who questioned
our brothers and husbands and lovers,
few months ago, at the beginning of
the silver talk, as to what it all was
about were not very greatly enlighten-
ed, were we? The fact is that, outside
those whose bread and butter it is, and
outside the repeating catchword or
two in wise way, there is not one man
--or woman--in hundred who knows
what his or her party principles are
o. should be. But this is of course be-
tween us womenl---New York Mail and
Express.
The herald., 1894-01-21
PLENTY OF TOURISTS.
Heavy Winter Travel From the Eas
Expected

A Heavy Winter Travel From the East
Expected.
San Francisco Call: The tourist
travel to California from the east for the
fret six months of the current year will
exceed the estimates generally made by
conservative judges. The hotel men
are preparing to entertain vast throng
OF guests, and this preparation is OF
made on vague reports of agents, but is
justified by direct application for accom-
mediation, already received and acknowl-
edged. 1t is evident that the greatest
rush will occur in March and April, but
the season embraced in the greatest
number of letters extends from Febru-
airy to June.
1t is known to the passenger agents,
as we'll as to the hotel managers in San
Francisco, that the Raymond & Whit
comb agency has business in sight to
Justify the declaration that all California
records of overland travel will be broken
this season. This agency has closed
contracts for taking care OF tourist par
ties numbering in the aggregate 1000 per-
sons.
Another agency, with field OF opera
tions embracing Baltimore, Philadel-
phia, Cincinnati and ST. Louis, has de-
cided to extend its business to CAL
iiornia. This agency did the second
largest business in tourist excursions to
Chicago. and has now on the list for
1894 several large excursions to San
Francisco.
The conclusions reached by hotel
managers are in O measure verified by
the observation and inquiry of many
people who have recently returned from
the eastern states. Conductors and
trainmen on the Santa Fe out of Chi
cago and Kansas City assert that the
travel to California since early in De.
cember has been heavy, but that it is
mainly directed to Los Angeles and San
Diego, yet the midwinter fair will ulti'
mately bring very large proportion Of
it to San Francisco.
The herald., 1894-01-21

The popularity of bicycle riding
among women has made it more posi-
BILE for women to accept the idea of rid
ing en- cavalier, an idea which is being
put in actual practice in the west. In
other words, cross saddle riding with
divided skirts has gained a certain
amount of recognition in a number of
localities. 1t has been found that la
dies look well, ride more safely and get
better exercise in the new way. The
practice of side saddle riding is attrib-
uted to the yaga1y Of queen who was
too deformed to use the cross saddle.
There has been vague idea that any
other method would be injurious. AS a
matter of fact, the practice of using the
side saddle has been adopted because it
adapts itself to modern dress, and be-
cause without special dress no other
method would be suitable. But cross
saddle riding is the safer way, it per-
mits of better and freer use of the
limbs and makes the exercise more eff
fectlve. All this will not make women
adopt it, however. A large number of
lady riders take the exercise to avoid
the unpleasant effects of too much fat.
Side saddle riding does not make fat
women thin, however, but if anything
enlarges the hips. Cross saddle riding
is more effective, because a wider range
of muscles can be used and harder rid
ing INDUCED in.-New York Medical
TO1aorI
The herald., 1894-01-21

ponderous majesty, but no one will take
her for less than she is and respect is
at once commanded. The fields seem
so we'll and go clearly marked out that
more harmonious blending of the
woman of society than ever before may
be hoped for, at least from a dress
makers standpoint.
Three models for the young matrons
are those of the initial and the two fol-
lowing pictures. In the first of these Is
seen lovely dinner dress of old gold
China silk, trimmed profusely and
richly with cream lace, and having q
very handsome flounce OF the. same
about the bottom of the skirt. The
evening gown is in moire antique and of
the off-shoulder cut now so stylish. Its
satin corselet is spangled and beaded
and finished at the top with vandykes,
and from it beaded strings hang in
points around the hips. The short
pulled sleeves are from silk muslin.
1t has already been made clear that
abe young matron 10 very little restricted
in her choice OF materials, and in the
third picture there is shown q sample of
how freely she may use lace and not
overstep the bounds of good taste. Here
the rich shoulder garniture consists OF q
yoke and epaulstte fichu Of rich guipure
lace. Through the lace narrow bands of
turquoise blue ribbon are run. The only
other ornsmentation on the costume is
the tiny bit OF passementerie at waist
and cuffs.
Pattern dresses are already being
shown for spring wear. These resemble
much in design the all-over embroidery
dresses that will be shown later in wash
The herald., 1894-01-21
A TROPIC LAND.
BAJA CALIFORNIA AS A PLACE TO
LIVE IN.
DR.. Gustav EEsner Lectures Before a
Large and Enth usiastic Audience
at the Acad my OF
Sciences.

San Francisco Call DR.. Gustav Eisner,
who has attained some celebrity as a
biologist and an advanced Archaeological
student, delivered lecture last evening
before the Academy OF Science on Baia
California.
Ordinarily spanking, Bajs, or Lower
California, has been considered a most
unattractiye acs. and probably owing
TO this erroneous conception of the eli
mate, product etc., OF the peninsula lit
tie intereet iiAe been displayed by Amer
leans n It Yet, as Dr. Eianer pointed
out IN ~ preliminagg r. marks, Lower
CaiiioFn IL geographically part OF this
eta ..AS country. although under the
Jurs esi9a of the Mexican government.
hrOn the boundary line which sep
arates Lower California from this state
down to La Psz the country is in eli
mate, as we'll as zoologically and geo.
graphically, closely allied with Caiifor-
MIA. Below La Paz to Cape San Lucas
the climate Is tropical, having heavy
rains III the summer months and de-
lighttul and dry winter. DIR. Eisner very
briefly explained why such difference
should exist in the climate of Lower
California by saying that undoubtedly
at not very remote period the southern
portion of the peninsula was an island.
The effects of glaciers and moraines in
the mountain range that continues from
California through the lower country are
plainly visible, and tend to substantiats
the hypothesis.
All tropical products can be grown and
brought to high state of perfection. At
present the sugarcane is the chief agri-
cultural product. although oranges,
lines and other fruits are also exported.
Coffee is grown in small quantities, but
ia OF most excellent quality, rivaling
the Mocha. The grapes grown are of the
Mission variety, and in the uplanda
apples and peaches can be successfully
grown. The equability of the climate
makes it delightful winter resort, all
that is necessary being the introduction
OF American capital and the vim and
business aptitude OF the northern race.
DR.. Eisner illustrated his lecture with
q series OF stereopticon views made from
photographs taken by him, and they
added very materially to the interest OF
the lecture
As described by him, the lower coun-
try is prolific in vegetation, large palm
forests being found not infrequently,
while the hillsides are clothed with wild
acacia and cacti. The wild cactus fur
nishes luscious fruit, and the wild
plum is also found in abundance. The
persimmons, found wild, are superior in
flavor to either those grown in the east
or in japan.
The encomiums passed upon Baja
California aroused the audience, that
was fairly large, for the lecturer was
frequently interrupted as some attract
i've picture was presented and explained.
The herald., 1894-01-21
Homo Ideas.

A beautiful table cover for a very
dainty apartment is of cream white
cashmere. with an artistic border Of
autumn leaves painted hpon it. Still
another cashmere one SHOWS the shower
rose leaf design, bunch of roses paint
ed in one corner, with their loose petals
dropping all over the square. Lovely
colored linens are shown for bedspread
and pillow cases nipple pink and grays-
These made charming sets for the pretty
enameled wood and metal bedsteads.
Tea cozies hold theif own faithfully. A
black satin one, ingde with four panels,
is painted with q circle of children,
hand in hand, whose gowns and en-
vironment indiqate the four seasons. =
Detroit News.
The herald., 1894-01-21

Ever and anon crops up in print the
question of women smoking. London
Truth has just published story from
Paris, by that most reputable of CORE
spondents, Mrs. Crawford, to the effect
that in continental Europe, although
the cigarette has not quite found its
way with after dinner coffee into the
drawing room, it soon will. ''At all
the houses setting up to style it is
served at intimate dejeuners and small
and lively dinners. Nobody is Shocked
at ladies smoking, not merelyon Gig
arctic apiece, but two or three. A
minister of Queen Christine told me
that that highly respectable and re-
spected royal lady is an invsterate and
a veteran smoker.
The herald., 1894-01-21
THE MUDDY.
A Fertile Valley Lying to the Mort

Fertile Valley Lying to the North
of Us.
Vanderbilt Shaft: The valley bearing
the name Of The Muddy is so called, we
presume, because of the fact that there
is no mud to be found within it's borders.
Located along the sides OF river, and
nestled down between mountain ranges
which shield it on the east and west, the
valley stretches away from the springs
in a southerly direction for miles and
miles.
Leaving Muddy springs and following
the river about II miles, California
crossing ia reached. This ia the point
at which the old Salt Lake and Los An
geles emigrant road crossed the river,
and it is this point where the Nevada
Southern railroad will cross the valley
in the near future. Passing down %
miles farther we reach st. Joseph, an
old Mormon town. Three miles farther
down the Muddy and Virgin rivers con-
meet. and % miles below here the rivers
empty into the Colorado. At this latter
junction lies Rioville, little cluster of
houses, and here also is Bienelas' ferry.
Rioville is the head OF navigation on the
Colorado river.
Thus far in our trip we have mentioned
only a few land marks. Now we will
make another trip and notice some of
the valuable features. To begin with,
in the whole valley, from the springs to
the Colorado river, the soil is very pro
ductiye. There are $4,000 acres of land,
enough to provide 160-scrs farms for 1877
families. There is plenty Of water, at
least ZOO inches in the springs, and
water which is just as pure as any that
can be found anywhere. No variety Of
fruit yet tested has failed to grow here.
The yield ia large and the quality per-
The herald., 1894-01-21

the debutante. Elaboration OF certain
sorts may 20 with these materials in
their making. The dainty bud may
wear gown of the simplest mousseline
do sole, chiffon, or even muslin or be-
tiste. It may be one mist OF tiny frills,
q wonder OF lace insertion, the lace be-
ing OF light and fimsy kind, or it may
be overweight with line on line OF baby
ribbon. But the eolors should ell be
delicate; the materials all simple. Nat
ural flowers may be used, but let them be
iorget-me-nots, or mignonette, or any
small flower that punches prettily.
For her street gown abe should choose
any smooth cloth or serge. 1t must be
. solid color and dull tan, pale mode,
orsany of the dark shades are good. 1t
may be frightened by dash of con-
trasting color; for instance, gown OF
chocolate serge is made with a round
cape, lined with brilliant scarlet cash
The herald., 1894-01-21

with Jet spangles and bordered with
velvet pansies in relief. The under
dress is composed of black tulle, starred
with Jet, apd jet veil of black spangled
tulle falls from the jet coronet. Another
marvellous robe is of tournesol satin,
embroidered with gold and outlined
with yellow rose petals, which opens
over tablier of yellow tulle worked Ia
gold. The sleeves are yellow satin,
covered with gold guipure set with
turquoise, and a puff of black satin at
the elbow falls over the cuf.-Petit
Journal.
The herald., 1894-01-21
Tho Queen Of the Antilles.

Jamaica has perhaps made greater
strides in the way of progress than any
of England's smaller, colonies during the
past 25 years and has some right now to
call herself .'the Queen of the Antilles
Lmong the evidences Of improvement
may be cited the hotels which have
sprung up in the island, for the building
of one of which e24. 200 was expended.
Then the Americans are laying lines of
railway through the best part Of the is
land, and the fruit cultivation Is now as
productive as that Of sugar, while the
price of land has risen enormously. Car
lyle's shade would be astonished to hear
that the once thriftless blacks have man.
aged to put by nearly $500, 900 in their
rawlings banks.--London World.
The herald., 1894-01-21

may spread ON the floor at her back.
She may adopt all daring devices and
new fads OF color and cut, but she must
not wear velvet unadorned or combined
with rich and heavy lace. and she must
not wear brocades in rich. deep colors.
The matron of few more years. the
woman who is no longer young yetwho
is by no means ready for the dignity of
the dowager, will wear rich materials
with greater dignity of cut, and she will
not affect the extreme OF fashion. For
evening wear, very magnificent brocadss
in delicate colors may be worn. the de-
sign carried out in crystal embroidery,
or plain and heavy satins may be en-
cruased with crystal beading in rich and
glittsring designs. All that is rich, gra-
cious and dignified may be used By a
woman at this period, and abe should be
most attractive and impressive figure.
WheE a woman has reached the dow
ager period she must impress and she
may terrify by her dignity and magniti-
ceneo. A degree Of elaboration in cut
The herald., 1894-01-21
Practical Hints.

Many must practice economy every
day, but this year there is more urgent
need than ever. The simplest way to
make over a dress for house wear, if
you have any sort of full skirt, is to
cut the basque off, allowing only an
inch or SO below the waistline, and
gather the SKIRT to this. Rip of all
superhuous trimming, arrange the neck
surplice fashion with bit Of lace or
embroidery basted in, and you will have
neat dress. Another way is to gather
full width to the back Of the basque,
cut the front yoke fashion and make a
full loose front which can be confined
by ribbon. With most made overs
this will require uiecipg, hnt Il dpne
The herald., 1894-01-21
She Amassed over Two millions.

The late Mrs. Elise Frank was a re-
markable woman. She left an estate
estimated at So, 600, 900, and this vast
fortune was amassed for the most part
by her own shrewdness and sound judg-
ment. For the greater part of the last
80 years Mrs. Elise Frank has been
power in Chicago financiering. She
appeared to know instinctively what
good investment was, and she made
money and grew rich because her in
telligence saw all the profits to be de-
rived from combination. -Chicago
News.
The herald., 1894-01-21
Miss Moreland,s Pictures.

The pictures of women created by
Miss Alice Moreland have such deli
cacy, femininity and grace that they sug-
gest flowers. This dainty artist of water
colors, odd as it is, has no especial
penchant for painting posies, yet her
women, in their soft gowns, represent
ing the gossamer textures of chiffon,
null, rich silks and downy velvet,
easily remind the observer of a group of
variegated blossoms. New York Ad-
Yertiser.