The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1894-10-07

he had never Vet eSSdNel LEle EtldliOn VI
experience and reminiscence; and rip
ple OF pleasant anticipation broke over
our remaining travellers faces, when,
with a little half-apologetiC "Ahem"' he
began the following recital of tender
hours among Irish hearts and scenes.
one has all sorts of good luck in getting
at the real things of life when trampiug
in any country.
Lingering about Killarney, hesitant in
nv purpose. / looked longingly toward
the passingly beautiful southwest coast
but felt a trifle cowardly about eEplora-
tons in that direction without a single
human soul beyond Killarney.
In all that splendid cOast-lne We're
scenes of indescribable beauty and gran
deur; there nestled the homes of nine
tenths of the fishermen of Ireland; and
over in the almost unknown regions OF
Dunkerron South, COrkaguiny and Iver-
aeh. were some of the quaintest people Of
Erin, among whom linger customs, us
ages and ways almost as odd and interest
ing as the Breton laws Of old.
In this mood of INDIGESTION I left Killar-
ney on morning long before its hosts OF
beggars and guides were astir; and, tax
ing my way toward Dingle Bay on the
great highway to Valencia, loitered along
past the northern shores Of Lower XII
larney lake, feasting upon the witching
scenery half disclosed through the deli
cate morning mists.
Before the little Gweestin river was
crossed, perhaps ten miles from killar-
ney, the daily "long-car' with its load of
passengers and parcels-post hampers
dashed by and shortly after, a solitary
foot traveller, of dubious appearance at
distance came up from Killarney way as
If DESTROYS of overtaking me.
Glad Of any excuse for cOmpanionship,
halted. But no sooner was the man close
enough for inspection than l regretted
my delay. He carried a tremendous cud-
gel in one hand little package of be-
longings in the other and walked with
bent. weaving stride, unlike one accus-
toned to the pleasures Of the road.
As he neared me his face took on
most forbdding aspect from the dumped
and shaggy hair that hid his features
completely; particularly as his eyes were
covered with nondescript hat
but none Of the breezy picturesque
ness of a huge SOU wester." Nor
did the hair stop with the face. His
coat was flung over his arm, and his shirt,
of some heavy wooden stuff like Gonna
mara flannel, was open nearly to the
waist, disclosing a breast of huge proper
lions covered as thickly as his face with
hair massed and matted in deep, gro
tesque swirls. AS the fellow halted, he
stood a veritable giant beside me.
Zine mornin';' he exclaimed in voice
like a hoarse clap Of thunder.
Same to you and many" I answered
civilly, but with some trepidation; for his
two great fists clutched his stick in
most handy way, as one might grasp an
aggressive bludgeon or rest upon a silent
oar.
He looked at me curiously for a mo-
ment; and now saw that a kindlier pair
of eyes never beamed from a human face.
Faith I'm John L. Shea,
Av swate Port Magee,
An l folly fishin'
Upon tn deep sayr'-
he resumed with an air of confidential
pride which at once set my apprehension
quite at rest
An if yer afther goin' my way an II
answer me thruly av yer own blissed self,
I'll divide tn road wild yez fairly; as tn
banin gintly observed to tn mad bull
that wor interjucin' his horns to his
leather crackers (sheep-skin breechesD"
I answered him truly as TO myself.
Then he told me with deliciously loqua-
cious candor how he had been sent for,
month before, by Father Flannery of
Carne, away up on the bowling coast of
County Mayo, to come among the poor
fishermen of Blacksod Bay to rig up
boats and gear" that the wretched folk of
that region, a class every whit as hope
less and helpless as the Arran Islanders,
might attempt deep-sea fishing; had exc
cuted his little commission, and was now
proudly returning to the Kerry shores
having walked every foot of the distance
in order to preserve intact his triflng sti-
pend for those he loved in the little home
nest at Port Magee.
did not say so in spoken words, but my
heart said, Brave John L. Shea av swate
Port Magee, that folys fishing upon tn
deep say you are Drawer, better, truer,
h0r hot 8
you have scales like a fish all over and
hair like beast all over that; with no
riches but your rich brogue and a cabin
and thatch and those within it, between
your kindly life and all manner Of harm -
And our hands came together with a
loud, resounding whack, and our tramps'
feet rang merrily over the ancient Kerry
road that leads by glens and loughs, over
1veragh mountains to the sea.
From our mountain road we at last saw
the sun sink into its flaming bed upon the
Atlantic horizon; but we yet lacked two
or three hours of completing our journey
from Killarney to the sea SO we left
the nights above Dingle Bay and after be
ginning the lovely descent toward Cahir-
siveen through the glowing valley of the
Knocknadober, my companion shortly led
the way over a rocky mountain boreen
for nearly a mile from the great stone
road we had traversed.
turning tne JuAllnB point OF nuBe CHI,
rising from a deep gorge around which
the foot path trailed. we came to a little
cluster of cabins in the sweetest and tin
lest of Kerry glens; all overhangng, but
inaccessible at this point from the high
way which wound like ribbon of pink
along the base of the nights, some hun
dreds of feet below
Here was a little eerie where were
perched an Irish "shebeen," which to one
of an inquiring mind might have been
given Identification with a certain Sc
cluded still farther up the glens; a few
cabins where lived a score of souls who
mind" the herds Of the grazers Of Kerry;
and a mite Of a chapel, within which at
least once a year "A little altar is lighted.
We were among friends. Some plain
and hearty food was soon at hand; and
before the light had entirely faded from
the upper peaks of Knocknadober. my
self and my shaggy companion were
sleeping peacefully upon bit of straw i'm
the secure, If not spacious, loft Of an
ever-hospitable Irish "shebeen."
Although / slept heavily, several times
during the night l heard soft knocks at
the door Of my tiny cabin. A regular and
interesting order of events distinguish
able only by sounds. followed each Of
fhaea aar{ac ~ rappfnpe