New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-03-25
NOTES on MEMS CLOTHES.

NOTES on MEMS CLOTHES.
The walking stick has more than ever become an
indispensable article Of fashion. England. France
Germany and Austria furnish the best woods for
canes. and the industry is carefully nursed by the
planting and growing OF those most desirable.
Weichsel has been very much In demand. and still
retains It's popularity. but arbrocet and furze are
now much in fashion. Arbrocet is a French oak
and In color is dark mouse. The notches and
indentations are Of various designs, and are made
at the pleasure of the woodgrower who with
knife cuts Sits Of various shapes through the bark
Of the young wood. which subsequently heals up
and forms fanciful notches and figures. Furze
shades a little more ION the brown and is
similarly treated. crab is also favored wood and
has natural notches.
The opera crook is much carried. II may be
capped with silver and have not too elaborate
silver band: or 1t may be without any mounting
The prince of Wales crook" is another desirable
style II may have n silver cap or II may nave
slight natural-looking bulb. studded with silver.
and neat silver band. The shepherd crook is
not as popular as 1t was. 49,, IT.,
afrect the latest style. and there is a decided dis
sibe. 10 '"'" Dc ''''' '"'e' '''' 80
The 'buckhorn opera crook is always in style
and can be mounted arbrocet furze. crab. WEIGH
Thc absurdiy large club-like canes are only car
ried by extremists and those who wish TO attract
inches in diameter is the limit.
The hunting Jacket is garment specially adapted
for driving riding and hunting 1t is hand-knit
woollen fabric. very fine and elastic Like the
billiard Jacket. II has silk sleeves and Is lined
throughout with red flannel. The sleeves are quite
roomy particularly at the elbow. and, unlike the
knit sleeves. there Is strain TO tire the arm IN
holding the reIns. The colors are black seal indigo
drab. bun. bronze and old gold and the same with
oil. ra1 dots uall
he worn I'm place of wastcoat the
light coors are considered specially attractive for
wear In driving
The close rolled cane-umbrella is more popular
than ever and to reduce its thickness. when rolled
up the rod is made OF steel and the number OF ribs
reduced from eight to six This weakens the UNI
brella for practical purposes. which. however
seems to be OF consequence. The SILK Is pam
gace. being thinner than twill. The SILK cover Is
made TO fit very tightly and II buttons snugly at
the top a novelty is dark leather cover. which
covers stick anc all except the handle. The in
side lower END is filed I'm and strengthened by
thin wooden tube into which the umbrella stick fits
nicely It has n ferrule finish. has two buttons at
the top and resembles "A cane.
There is more latitude in styles of umbrella
handles than in canes Furze has the lead now.
followed closely by weichsel. congo. Madagascar
vine scorched gorse and French oak; these are. IN
ali cases unpublished. The opera crook Is favored
most Knotted bulbs and roots are quite desirable
and with very little. If any. metal mounting or
ornamentation Polished myrtle green pimento
nave not yet been taken up: all smooth woods
are in fact considered undesirable
A new turnover collar is shown by the swell
furnishing goods dealers. The band is inches
high ir front and at the back. and the turn
over mart is 81, inches wide in front and inches
at the back. Its space separation Is y men at
the higher and slantng down to !. inch at the
lower points II looks Ike straight standing
s-tri .
ties are the proper neckdress Tor nus shape AS
II fakes nearly double the quantity of material used
for other shapes 1t is much more expensive ana Is
NOT likely TO become article for the multitude.
There is a slight change in the cut OF trousers |
The width Is medium and averages 10 inches at the
knee and l6ia inches at the bottom being little |
moro tapering than before. The bottom has slight |
spring and there Is a welt - inch wide at the |
sides A mere suggestion of crease is In order. |
back and front: not sharp, as that suggests the |
stock trousers.
The materials used are largely worsteds in very !,
fine stripes. having narrow stripes We'll spaced. or |
a shade or two darker and also of slightly differ
emf but closely related tints. The prevailing tones
in this sort of material are gray. bue-gray and !
biue-slate Nearly all materials used for suitings
variety Of neat stripes and quiet checks. Soft
brown effects with tngs OF different SoIored
effects such decided stripes fairly well spaced
are favored by some men-these are more In
rough than smooth cloths. however.
In suitings homespuns, cheviots worsteds. vicunas
and tweeds are shown in great variety OF color
jpgs There is a tendency to get away from too
emphatic patterns. Very pretty overplaids quiet.
vet entirely new. quite popular. The shades
are largely soft brown and gray. Very small
checks in two shades of gray drab and brown are
very stylish. The oxford. Cambridge. seal brown
and indigo mixtures In soft vicunas VIII suit men
Of quiet taste.
An excellent glove for driving Is the tandem IT
Is an oak-tan deerskin having the thumb and full
palm reinforced with red tan leather and Is there
fore OF two thicknesses The material Is heavy,
vet soft and pliable. 1t has pque stitch and the
opening at the wrist is bound with red tan An
quality of this glove Is the chevrette. which
Is also finished in the same manner.
An agreeable change from the so long popular
rour-in hand scarf Is the De Joinve. 1t has made
Is appearance in q variety Of small checks In
highly colored but well contrasted combinations;
md also In the best known Scotch tartan patds.
such as the Forty second Forbes. Argyle. Gordon.
stewart Mcleod and others. The scarf Is from
a TO As inches long, by 6is inches wide. The
ma terial is pure soft silk. and the weave mat or
basket 1t is reversible and the wearer folds II
himself (making II narrow around the neck), ana
les IL into a small knot which Is pressed In shape
70 suit himself, the broad fringed ends spreading