The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1894-01-03

family for generations, and of course
the older a piece Of lace is the hand
SOmer and more valuable it IS to the
wearer. There is, however, very little
to be said in favor Of lace and fur as
Joint garniture for anything. Jet and
the beautiful castle braids it seems
should be sufficient where fur is not used,
and fur trimming ought to be sufficient
itself, though on a velvet, silk or very
fine cloth, silk embroidery picked out
with jet beads makes an elegant and
suitable beading for bands of fur
I saw a long cloak today of heavy,
black faille and black velvet. The cloak
was of faille and fitted like a newman
ket. All down the center of the back
and on the front to The waist line was
mass of embroidery, thickly studded
with beads of very fine cut jet. There
were undersleeves of faille, with velvet
cuffs. richly beaded, and long, black
velvet juive sleeves, lined with silk, Dor
dered with sable and embroidered in
silk and jet. The high color was also
stiff with beaded embroidery. This was
altogether a superb wrap, and 1t would
have been cheapened by having white
lace sewn upon it.
Flat lace insertion makes a very pref
ty and tasteful trimming on home
dresses where the contrasting color
shows up the delicate pattern, and per-
haps there has been no fancy of late
years that was so dainty. Many silks
and wOOlens have several of these rows
of insertion, and all are pretty. A novel
and effective trimming is often made
by ladies in this way: They sew two
lines of narrow, colored serpentne braid
on their gowns, and between these work
In Bulgarian stitch a series of cOnven-
tional design in one or more bright col
Ors. This style of crOcheting is very
effective on house dresses, and the pat
tern can be worked in woods or with
ell In, fI,# 4
along instead of embrOidering the CEN
ter, and on this is set at intervals imi-
tation jewels-rubies, garnets, anne
thysts, turquoises or emeraIds-accord-
ing to the color of the gown.
There was a very pretty tea gown of
pale blue and black ringed challie, which
was tastefully trimmed in this style:
The gown opened down the front over
a full waist and panel of blue satin
duchesse. There was a double ruffied
collar of the challie, and the sleeves
were crushed gigots All around the
challie portions was a line of trimmings
made Of serpentine braid and Bulgarian
stitch in red and blue. Another row
went around the bottom of the skirt.
and the two were placed diagonally upon
the sleeves, and one row was placed
upon each ruffie at the shoulders. Al
together this made an exceedingly hand
some tea gown or a gown for home
wear at almost any time.
One of the novelties is to have lace
sewed over with colored beads outlining
the pattern. Often where there is a
floral pattern the beads are applied to
follow nature as closely as the case will
allow. Black and white lace are thus
used. The white laces thus beaded are
used for berthaS to evening dresses and
as festooned fiounces. The black lace is
set on the solid colored and black silks
for handsome evening or dinner gowns
for married ladies.
One very pretty fancy was working
violet colored and pearl beads over a
light pattern in white Spanish lace. Pink
and green in the light wax or satin
beads also worked out a delicate vine
with rosebuds. Another handsome de-
sign was three rows of wax pearl beads
sewn closely on serpentine braid an
inch wide, and on the edges of this there
was a fringe Of cut crystal beads Three
rows of this were set on the skirt of a
white armure silk for a wedding dress
and the same was lavishly used on the
bertha. There are rufiieS of braid woven
that way, and these are often almost en-
tirely covered With beads, black or other
color, and have fringes of the same
This makes it easy to trim a garment. =
The variety and elegance of the new
mohair and silk braids as trimming for
almost all kinds Of garments make it
far easier to have a handsome garment
at the least expenditure of time or
SlTtUHln ludu tN6i DtLOLe. i SLiW one
ladylike costume of light browa vicuna
with three graduated rows of black her
cules braid. There was a stylish Jacket
of dark chocolate brown beaver cloth.
with several rows of stitching around
the edge and ten large horn buttons The
collar was of red brown velvet with d
V-shaped vest and collar showing slight
ly, and made of chamois skin. The bon
net was of brown velvet, with a few am
Der beads and a tan fancy mounted
feather. The gloves Eere tan. The eye
Travelled from bonnet to the foot of the
dress in a pleased review of the COM
ponent parts of this refined and quiet
costume.
/ have noticed this past week that as
trakhan is quite largely employed as in
sets in skirts of coats and gowns in
wedge-shaped pieces. This is really a
beautiful fur, and it lends itself better
than any other fur to this style of trim
ming. 1 have seen many garments, par
ticularly of matte and matelassee goods,
where the vest front, cuffs and collarettes
were made of astrakhan. But it should
in any such case always be the MORE
! fur, as it is called. such as is obtained
by inclosing the little animal I'm a bag,
/ leaving only its feet and head out. This
makes the hair curl into tiny rings
fancy II would make anybody's hair curl
to be kept sewn up in a bag.
Cherry red is one Of the favorite hues
| this winter. and IL is exceptionally be-
| coming to almost every woman. and it