Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1894-12-13

VI tuS CfCulhS tOiAhAOs dONO4OP
trasting shapes in picture hats that have |
arched, and as fiat as pancakes, all ele-
walton being due to the trimming, which, |
as rule, rises horn-like on either side |
of the head. Even the pretty French |
toque has spread and spread, so that it |
extends right and left in tarng bows |
described as "hats' WINGS and we'll |
they are named, the toque Immediately |
above the forehead being flat and
square-looking.
Black, green and dark violet yelvets
are in great use this season for making
dressy hats, and velvet dahlias some
what smaller than the natural flowers
are arranged in groups OF twos and
threes in eccentric places. Frequently
these artificial blooms in variety of
colors comprise the entire trimming.
But hats of this kind are, so to speak,
Ouaker-like, compared with the extra
ordinary styles that can be counted by
the score on every side, when yellow,
blue, green, black and red are jostled
together upon one structure.
To give smart finish to plain black
silk or satin dress waist are wide sailor
collars in black and white checked silk.
The collar reaches from shoulder to
shoulder and is edged with tiny
pleated frill of the silk. In front the
collar terminates in long pointed fichu-
like ends that are smartly knotted.
Folds and tiny wrist-trill of the silk
are added to the sleeves. This idea can
be carried out in different colored checks
or plaids in silk or velvet.
Two very charming tea-gowns re-
Gently worn are worthy of notice. Both
were in princesse shape with Vatican
fold falling from yoke of velvet in the
back. The first was made of sea.gull
gray India cashmere. The very full
} pulled sleeves, ending just below the
elbow, were made of rose-pink benga-
ZINE, as was the front of the gown from
throat to feet. The yoke and collar
were formed of deep petunia velvet.
Long ecarf ends of the silk were brought
from the shoulders over the yoke and
were knotted in front, with a bit Of rich
lace on the ends as finish. The other
tea-gown was made 6of olive-green
camel's hair. A very rich shade Of old
rose formed the front, and an immense
cape-collar of ecru guipure lace covered
the shoulders.
Bodices distinct from skirts are the
rage. Women cannot be too grateful
to la mode for allowing them TO thus
vary their appearance at so small cost.
With beautifully shaped black satin
skirt is this winter worn by we'll
known lady artist in this city fitted
blouse evening waist Of mandarin yell
low satin, striped both on bodice and
full sleeves with wide black velvet rib
bon that glitters with dangling let
sequins and is edged with narrow jetted
lace sewed on fiat and not gathered.
The stock collar and girdle are made OF
jettcd piece velvet. Another waist is
made OF black satin trimmed with ride
scent-blue sequins, the sleeves of sap
phire-blue velvet A third waist is
formed of crimson and cream shep-
herd s.check silk, and fourth OF
cherry-red satin brocade with narrow
Jet gimp laid on in straight rows as a
trimming.
In popular winter dress fabrics are
rich looking, heavy wooden reps, English
: serges in a variety of new handsome
colorings, very beautiful patterns in silk
and wool mixtures, and lastly the thick
winter crepons which are perhaps even
\ more admired than were the summer
I varieties. Many women now affect the
shaggy English fabric, stripped dlagon-
ally, called Piccadilly tweed. 1t does
not commend itself to general taste, the
/ coloring being rather high, but admirers
!; OF novelty elect for it very generally.
Il One may this season wear almost any
becoming color and not be ont Of date
but among the newest French and
English gowns for general wear-eXclu
sive of those which show rich color.
melanges-a certain beautiful shade o.
green, a deep Russian blue, black, and
coachman's drab are the monochrome:
that fashion most affects.
Jet-embroidered velvet points edged
with finest jetted lace about an inch AM
q half wide are this season sold for tht
decoration of bodice and sleeves; yer,
elaborate velvet Vandykes are shown
! with embroidered panel.ends and skirt
borderings to match, and for the ends o
girdles and stock collars are iettet
velvet rosettes with large brilliant cut
.,jet cabochons in the centre.
Most garnitures offered for sale thi
season are more or less directly intended
for the decoration of gowns, and thci
intention is to give broadening effects
The textiles still most favored for thaS
dainty accessories are chiffon in plai
and in shaded Persian effects, crepe
lisse, delicately embroidered, China silk
and crepe de Chine. These fabrics ar
severally most becoming and adaE
themselves readily to all the draped an
frilly fancies of present modes. Buckle
of pearl, opal, silver or imitation jewel
are used to conhne the wide.spreadiu
bows at the neck and waist These, t
suit various tastes and requirements, ar
round, square, oblong, diamond, star, G
curved in shape.
The make of tichu named after til
unfortunate French Queen is exceed
ingly popular just now. So are fluff
and frilly things of all kinds, in ever
shape ana material. Cascades of lac
chiffon, collarettes and jabots, ce-trn
med vests, plastrons Gnd guimpes chou,
coquilles, rosettes, lance DO ws-in shoI
there is no limit to the expansive an
expensive etcetaras S, IA that are desigue
to make dress boGices as elaborate All
fantastic as possible. 1t is rarely tht
We see gown which strictly follows th
lines of the ngure, and except whel
the tailor-gown comes Ia figures seem I
have grown quite out OF date Sue
torture OF material to produce owe
trimmed corsages and athletic .lookiu
shoulders has never been seen before
+. this generation. Skirts, On the contrar,
remain severely plain.
In making the newest stock COLA
for very dlessy uses, more than oil
material is used; for example, a foldG
collar Of black velvet lined with cherl
satin, with large rosettes at each sic
made OF jetted velvet lined with Il
bh.tin. Again, fancy bow of pin
andn ribbon arranged in trent on
= n..l1 Ia, IS