Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-09-22

~ ger than ever, and
~ many of the best
IN dressed models in a
NV Partisan modiste's
! /
| N rooms are obliged tC
| <NXNN pass through an or
| I-NIEAf.A binary doorway side
| k[SLlk,N\\ ways. There is abso-
| NIW.ASCCN lutely nothing new
| NxA4EGA%W so to speak, in this
| WY .VENM falls fashions. The
INV tWV grand dame is repeat
w ing herself Small
waist high shoulders
| Dig sleeves, round full skirts are the same
| effects continued in the new gown. The
changes are rung in materials and the en-
| broideries and the passementeries. in which
the French dress artist excels. are no
| where approached.
group of well-dressed women repre-.
| senting several nations and all recognized
| authorities on dress, were discussing the
novelties that the Partisan dressmaker had
to offer this season, and their unanimous
| verdict was that the best American dress
| makers can fit as well, often times better
| than the foreign artist and that If it were
possible to have manufactured in this coun.
| Try the passementeries, the simps, and
other trimmings, such as you get so easily
| In Paris, better effects could be attained in
| style and finish than any French brain
could devise today. American dressmakers
| ~ 10 rarls Tor ideas, improve on them, and
| some oil the best-dressed women in this
| Guy nave never worn a gown made out OF
| the country.
| But to set back to sleeves The newest
are so SO VIDE. stand out so bravely and are
| 50 mucn draped that there is as much. II
not more. material in them than in the
s st oi the dress. So you who intend to
| follow the fashion this winter remember
! TO allow a wide margin for your sleeves
they are pulled. and draped, and trimmed
ana All have stiffening pleated into the
arm hole to make them stand out straight
from the shoulder: Great effects are wired
TO Keep them in place and grass cloth goes
INTO some. The sleeve is the thing for This
winter, and your style or want of IL will he
| quickest measured there ~
The New COlOrs.
Ihere Is nothing really new in colors
ei'her SHOWN In Paris except 1t may be for
= evening crosses. when a great effort is
Deihg made to make the new blue "bluet. ~
they call 1t, the corn-fiower shade, fashion
able In tulle and fluffy materials it is
very pretty and becoming. "Cerise'' is not
as entirely new, but will be fashion HE
ana all the variations Of "Eminence," from
.ne pinkest to the purplest, will have a
snare In the popular favor, mainly because
or their intense becomingness
FOR street gowns. broadcloths and ladies'
clothS OF texture a degree or two hea yier
man we ike 1t here. rough-surfaced
materials are shown as staples Shepherd
pIaids in red and black and yellow and
piack, are pushed to the front also In
1act, checks will be the thing in dull com
biz ations of color, rough textures hut light
weights, and are the very smartest thing
Tor street costumes. Covert cloths tweeds
plain and crapy cheviots. cancels hair and
the like are what are offered to the exclu-
sion of smooth-surfaced or sold-colored
materials. In black goods the same ten
dency to rough effects is evident and
Where there was one crepon to select from
last year there are twenty weaves shown
DOW The crepons have simply pushed out
all other lightweight goods and have near
~ banished all fancy silks, and for mourn
ing control the situation. The palmer eff
fects are used with English crepe for first
mourning and after that the weaves in
which n little dull silk effect Is introduced
are the proper thing. Some of the newest
crepons have shimmering surface almost
ike glass, especially in the opal and green
| shades. This retails in this country for
about $3.50 yard. so the latest agony is
expensive.
Silks and satins are in it. of course. and
seem 70 be more fanciful and prettier than
ever There Is new black MORE woven
In silk and wool, which is as soft as fine
merino and simply uncrushable Corded
silks in figured patterns are the novelty.
How to Make Them.
The plain, round skirt dies hard In fact.
1t Is just as fashionable as ever Over
skirts were tried a year ago, and all admit
were lamentabe failures. Some drapery is
shown, but long, unbroken lines are MAIN
taiued. Panels Of different materials are
introduced, and some very wide-gored skirts
are shown, the sort which leave you in doubt
as to whether the wearer is coming or go
ing. The use of rough textures will not al
low skirt trimming around the edges, un-
less 1T be fur borders. Skirts fit smoothly
over the hips and will therefore continue
to be joy to ladies with generous waist
measures. Slender figures can use all the
fuliness In the drapery they want provided
straight lines are held. The fashionable
walking skirt escapes the ground, the house
dress Is trif1e longer. and no trains are
seen. exc pt for evening wear Dancing
dresses are cut quite round as they have
been for several seasons. Gored skirts are
not much seen. Most Of the winter gowns
are unlined but are. of course, mounted on
silk petticoat. Crepons and such ma
terials are lined with taffeta, are cut in
the now familiar bell shape one seam I'D
the back and are about four and one-haif
yards around the bottom. A stylish skirt
hangs in the back in three broad box plaits
and all OF them have elastic bands to keep
them trig about the figure. On the whole
fashionable clothes were never as comfort
able and rs practical and never was there
better chance for the use Of everyday
common-sense in your selections of ma
terial and cut.
Both Lace and Fur.
A tour of several days among the leading
modistes in Paris. and careful inspection
of all they had to show, developed the fact
that no dress model was produced that was
not trimmed with either lace, Jet or fur.
Most had both. but all had lace Every
sort OF lace is used, but the creamy tints
In the heavier NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Of
old laces generally-make the best effects.
Sealskin and lambs wool are the popular
things in fur. but, of course. those who can
go In for Russian sable and mink can con-
tinue their purchase and create no end of
envy by these tip-top luxuries. There is
something about sealskin, though, as dear
to the feminine heart as to the pocket book,
and the new models are thought prettier
than ever Coats are ull-skirted, Of good
length, and have big sleeves or ruffied col
lars or broad rever effects, pretty much as
for the past two seasons. Capes are better
style. They hang very full from round
pointed or square yokes, or have two or
three ruffied capes, with a moderately high
standing collar.
The Innings of Powered satin are richer
than ever. Some styles prevail in lambs
wool or astrakan. The old-fashioned tip