davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The herald., 1894-03-25
The New Crayat,

A novelty for which the fashionable
girl may be held responsible and one
that promises to have great vogue this
season is the large cravat knotted under
the chin. 1t is worn with all sorts of day
and evening dresses, in soft silken stuffs,
such as crepe de chine, crinkled crepon,
surah or indian satin, and in light, me-
dium or dark shades, according to the
costume. The scarf is 2I yards long
and about IA inches wide, and the ends
are scalloped or finished with handsome
lace about eight inches deep, gathered
full enough to absorb fully double. 1t
is tied to form two enormous loops,
which are spread at the top, the ends
hanging to below the waist. Fashions.
The herald., 1894-03-25

al resort is made to the ways anu wlles
of the professional promoter. Thus,
the third illustration depicts an unmts-
taxable overskirt with equally apparent
panier effects, but it is introduced as a
Louis XIV skirt. To the learned in the
history OF dress, this may mean over
dress and nothing else, but ae the name
is no disguise when the style is seen,
the deceit, II any were intended, can he
forgiven. Let it be then a Louis Nv
skirt, and this one consists of founda-
tion bell skirt of satin which is bordered
around the bottom with wide band of
velvet. The upper skirt is but little
wider than the lower and is draped 10
the manner indicated, snd the folds OF
the various loopedu parts are held in
place by large velvst bows. The fulnes9
around the hips is arranged 80 as to
initiate paniers. The material OF the
overdress is tobacco brown brocaded
silk. There is a separate jacket of
brown cloth which closes With full
velvet bow and cut steel buckle. This
is sleeveless and it's garniture consis's oil
a reVers collarette of brown velvet. The
bodice sleeves have double puffs banded
with velvet and ornamented with
buckles on the outside, and long velvet
cuffs.
The present craze for ribbon is ad
iusted to the demands for psniers, and
the result ia q sash effect most unique
and effective. The ribbon used is extra
sssn width moire. Two puffy loops are
made, one end short and cut across st
the edge. the other three yards long.
The loops are set on the hip, the short
end is brought to the front, the corner
turning back in rever fashion, and the
long end is carried to the back Here it
meets the other long end, big tie is
msie of the two ends. with dropping
loops and ends to reach the edge OF the
skirt-and there you are. The illustra-
ton last described merely suggests how
bows break out everywhere. 1t is now
possible to have them ell around the
edge of the skirt, to have one on each
side OF the bodice for paniers, n hu'
The herald., 1894-03-25
She Is an ExDert.

Miss Frances Johnston Of Washington
is regarded as one of the most expert
woman photographers, if not the. most.
Previous to taking up photography Miss
Johnston studied art for a few seasons
at the Academy Julien in Paris and so
brought an unusual training to the exer-
else Of Photographic art. Miss john
ston was the first to make successful
fashlight pictures oe the Mammoth
cave, after many men had failed. Last
summer she was chosen an assistant to
Professor Smillie, the famed photog-
rapher of the Smithsonian institution,
to prepare the plates which constitute
the government record and report of the
Worlds fair. Washington Letter.
The herald., 1894-03-25
The Riovcls Made useful.

l believe the wheel will yet be re-
sponsible for many changes and ad-
vancements in women's dress that we
are not yet prepared for. And the time
is soon coming when a woman on a
wheel will excite no more comment, no
matter how outre her dress, than would
be excited by the same woman afoot
Women need this exercise more than
men. There are many women who have
more time to ride than men. There are
thousands of women living near towns
or villages who perhaps have horses.
VINO DO not get the ezeiclse or go down
town as often as they would. The men
folks are away, nobody to hitch up,
got to dress, etc., and we'll let it 60 I'M
til tomorrow.
Even the short mile or less is more
than she cares to undertake for the de-
sire. But give that same woman a
wheel, and the mile is reduced to less
than quarter. The little ride can be
The herald., 1894-03-25
Gentlewomen Required as Nurses.

One of the growing institutions Of
Pittsfeld is the Bishop Training School
For Nurses. The hospital has 80 beds
and the training school accommodations
for 40 nurses. The nurses enter for a
two years course, receiving the first
year So per month and the second year
$12 per month. besides board, washing
and instruction. The junior, or first
year nurses, take care of the patients, as
the bedside instruction is the most i'm
portant part of thsir training. The
senior nurses, after being in the hospital
one year, are sent out to care for sick
people at the request of the physicians
or where the superintendent shall choose
to send them. Applicants must be at
least 30 years of age, of sound health,
good moral character and have a good
common school education. Pittsield
(Mass.) Letter.
The herald., 1894-03-25

one at the throat and the entire bonnet
of one. This, teo, all at the same time
In telling of a contest it is fair to give
both sides, go in the last two pictures
there are shown two new costumes
which do not include overskirts in any
form. These are at the left side in each
case. The first is made OF black velvet,
black bengaline and rich black lace; the
skirt 10 trained, lined with elk and
trimmed with two full ruches Of fine
black crepe lisse. The bodice has a
square yoke of bengaline and ia gar
nished with lace that crosses in back
and front over the yoke. The immense
velvet puff sleeves are finished with
deep lace frills. The other member
of the opposition is a street dress of
dark blue cheviot, trimmed with black
watered silk. Its plain skirt is garniahed
at the bottom with five narrow rolls of
MORE. The bodice has revers and turned
down collar OF watered silk, but the mar
row basque ia made OF cheviot. The
standing collar consists of folded moire,
hooking with q small head in the back,
and the cloth plastron in the front is
hidden by an enormous cravat-boW of
watered silk with lsce-trimmed ends.
Since the struggle for and against the
overskirt seems to be going in its favor,
it ia polite to return again to consider
alton OF overdresses. at the right, in
the fourth sketch, there is a tasteful
example OF its use on a youthful cos
tune. 1t consists of an underskirt of
elk or satin, draped with an accordion
peated overskirt of gauzy crepe lisse.
that is lifted at the left side. The right
eide of the bodice laps over and ia
fastened with a spray of roses and
foliage. The fullness at the top is
draped in front, but the back is plain.
The lower parts of the sleeves consist Of
series OF gauze puffe, with two larger
puffs lined with silk at the top. In the
last picture, at the right. there is seen
the familiar form of overskirt which
opens at the aide. These are now often
The herald., 1894-03-25

30 far eHtdietanced the panier, and, for
that reason, may be, panier devices and
effects are now becoming more numer-
Gus and more attractive. In the first
two pictures of this column two views
OF the same dress are shown, to present
clearly ~ accessory which combines
the bertha with the pahier effect. 1t ie
made OF BLACK moire edged with black
braid. The bertha is a pointed vest
piece Withua folded collar, and on either
side of Asaa set q wide bertha rever OF
the moiKAspreading over the shoulders
iand Narrowing to the waist. at the
,lbackis % aabcx-pleated piece of silk err
ranged to fall, in collarette fashion,
lacfagg from shoulder to shoulder, and
attached to the folded belt of silk ia q
series of curved panel pieces. The two
bertha side pieces. Those on the side
shorter and set out eighty. A more
useful accessory could hardly be planned,
Tor black MORE goes well with almost
anything, and we are assured that braid
will hold Its own this summer. AS first
offered. 1t is applied, in the described
materials, to o simple street dress OF
blue serge, but for strictly dressy use
the same affair might be carried out in
the almost equally popular white moire.
Then the pointed vest piece should be a
soft pleating of white chiffon, and frilled
lace should be used instead of the braid.
Even the despissd Dolly Warden pan
iers are heralded in the pufis on the hips
which narrow front and back and spread
wide at the side. Flowered orgsndies
The herald., 1894-03-25
The Colonial DANES.

The Colonial Danes of the State Of
New York, although only organized last
April, have already over 10 members.
No one is admitted to membership who
cannot show genealogical tree with
some ancestor living in this country as
early as 1850 and who served his coun-
try in some noteworthy ofice-if in the
army or navy, holding no lower posi-
tion than that of lieutenant. Chapters
of the society can be formed only in the
13 original states and the District of
Columbia. Already eight of the states
are represented. Every month meet
ing is called upon the anniversary of
some historical event, and interesting
papers are read in connection with it,
New York Correspondent.
The herald., 1894-03-25
women DOCTORS For Insane women.

women OoCtoES Eof Anhnno women.
A bill is pending in the Virginia leg
islature for the election of a woman
physician for each of the insane asylums
of the state, to have charge of the fe-
male departments therein. 1t is prac-
tically the same bill that passed the
house two years ago almost without dis
sent. There is considerable agitation
over the matter. Mrs. Sallie e.. Glib
honey of Tazewell, who for six years
was matron and housekeeper in an in
sane asylum, has written convincing
letter to the Richmond Dispatch in be-
half of the measure. 1t is strongly sup
ported by the Norfolk Landmark, the
Broadway Enterprise and the Staunton
Vindicator. The latter paper says:
The movement IN Virginia has grown
in the two years that have passed since
one house of the legislature delayed the
reform, in opposition to the almost
unanimous voice of the other house and
Of the people, and we look with conf
dence to the passage of the bill this ses-
sion. Mako the bill for the election of
women physicians mandatory, make it
fix their status as in charge of the fe-
male departments, and not to be subor-
dinated by the superintendents by being
placed under male assistants, and you
will have no trouble getting southern
women physicians. At one college
alone, the Woman's Medical college of
Pennsylvania, located in Philadelphia,
there were five southern women gradu-
ated last June, and there are now there
13 women, four of them Virginians,
completing their medical studies.
The herald., 1894-03-25
seen on walking dresses and promise to
ha v,oowa rfauktfrI

seen on walking dresses and promise to
be more plentiful.
For those who object altogether to the
overdress there is 9 compromise in the
shape OF lace affair, that fits closely
over the underskirt 10 about the knees,
where IL points off into vandykee. From
under the vandykes Q ruffis set on the
underskirt escapes In pretty fulness.
This model, ae you see, avoids all full
ness about the hips. Something OF the
same effect is obtained by an overdreas
made entirely of ribbon set leRgthwise,
with alternate insertions of lace. The
ribbon ends in pointed pieces. and the
whole fits closely over the under silk
skirt Yet another quaint sort goes on
over the head. 1t 10 only o square OF
silk-lined velvet with hole cut in the
center and q belt set in encasing draw
ribbon. The overdress is clipped on
over the head, the draw ribbon tightens
the belt and the four corners OF the
square fall prettily, one to either side OF
the front and one to either side OF the
back. The came idea ie carried out In
light wash silk for summer dresses. A
little cape affair made on the same
plan and cuff to match complete the
garniture OF the gown.
In conclusion it should be said that
there are nearly as ma1y patterOe OF
overdresses offered rs thers we're oapss
last winter, so it should be 3 simple
matter to find an attractive one; and
since they promise to become general, it
behooves the woman who wishes to be
we'll dressed to watch the output and se.
lect those to her liking.
Copyright, 1894.
The herald., 1894-03-25

made pleasure. She can do the shop
ping or 60 to the postoffice and take
pleasure in 1t and not miss the time,
and the bit of exercise, so different
from any other, will do her good. Many
women will get interested In riding by
learning at seaside and summer resorts.
When time hangs rather heavy and
there is but little going on, they will
learn to ride. And once knowing its
practical side they will be loath to give
it up, even If it has not the exact ap-
proval of their set The middle aged
women, 90 hard to get interested in any
thing that needs physical exertion, and
at time of life when they need it the
most, will find this an interesting way
of getting that exercise and doing some
thing at the same time, for there is al
ways something to do and somewhere
to go.--Boston Herald.
The herald., 1894-03-25
womanInP Publ;o Affairs.

The United States senate on Feb. 10
discussed bill providing for town sites
in Oklahoma. Senator PETER offered an
amendment to change the words quail
fed electors" to 'all citizens of the
United States" Senator Blackburn op-
posed the amendment on the ground that
''it would make every woman as well
as every man in that TERRITORY quail
fed voter" Senator PETER said:
''Mr. President, my intention is very
plain. intend to avail myself of every
opportunity to strike out the word
male where that word remaining
would interfere in any way with the
rights of females. The time has come
when we need the help of women in
public affairs. If there is any portion
of the human family that moro than
another is interested in the home, it is
the women-our mothers, our wives, our
daughters. Every young man when he
searches for wife and makes a selec-
tion does 1t believing that he has not
only selected the best woman in the
world, but one who is his equal in every
respect. There is not one man in
family in every 100, 600. If he is worthy
of the name of man, who does not be-
lieve that his wife is fully his equal in
taking care of all the interests of the
family, in looking after the children
while they are young, and who does not
know that after the boy and the girl
have left the parental roof her sympa-
thy, her love, her affection, her prayers
and her tears follow them wherever
they go. repeat, Mr. President, when
ever l have favorable opportunity /
propose to avail myself of II and give to
woman-God bless her!-every adyan-
tage, every right and every privilege
that I enjoy"
The amendment was lost--15 to AZ.
The herald., 1894-03-25
Margaret j, nIacenis.

A 90 years engagement upon the Bos-
ton Traveller has just been closed by Mrs.
Margaret j. Magenis, who is woman
of marked ability and may Justly bo
counted one of the pioneers among wo-
men journalists. She is not only we'll
known through her profession, but as
an active worker in all religious and
reform circles. She has served for many
years as Suffolk county superintendent
of prison and almshouse work in the
Woman S Christian Temperance union,
and for seven years she conducted Sun
day services in Rainsford aud Deer is
lands. This necessitated her leaving her
home in Dorchester at o'clock on the
only day in the week on which she
could rest, but in summers heat and
winters cold she was always at her
post, and her coming was eagerly
watched for. She is also we'll known as
the author of a series of temperance
sketches, THE Foe of the Household.
Union Signal.
The herald., 1894-03-25
Kansas Women Mayors.

Pleasanton, Kan, has elected wom-
an mayor. Several small Kansas towns
have within the past three or four years
chosen women for mayors, and there il
no recorded instance of any of them
having cause to regret it. In a short
time the Kansas women will be full
hedged voters, clothed with the COM
plete regalia of citizenship, and then we
shall have feminine mayors in some OF
the larger towns as we'll as women
county clerks, treasurers, recorders, etc.
The Kansas woman is the coming man,
SO to speak. Kansas City journal.
The herald., 1894-03-25
Women In Politics.

The New York Woman's Relief corps
in asking an appropriation from the state
legislature to establish home for the
aged dependent veteran and his wife,
veterans mothers, widows and army
nurses, and the Woman's Health Pro-
tective association has appointed com
mittee to go to Albany and urge the pas
sage of the bill now before the assembly
committee on cities providing for the
bailing and barreling of stable refuse.
These are but two of the numerous in
stances in which wemen are engaged in
politics without realizing it.-Boston
Woman'g journal.
The herald., 1894-03-25
Women and
Women Only

sented her application in manly way,
deposited the official fee-$2-and then
made her way into the line of the appli-
cants to await her turn. Among other
questions she was asked as to the size of
the blowoff required fer a seven horse
power engine and what she would do If
the valves stuck fast. When the OK
animation was finished, the examiners
wrote at the end of her paper accept
ed" and Miss de Barr is now q full
fiedged licensed steam engineer. Della
ware Twilight.
The herald., 1894-03-25
At Homea.

The effect of being born to the royal
purple is evidently enervating. At one
of the English drawing rooms last year
the heat and crowd were so great that
the poor vice queen, Princess Christian,
finished her duties in an almost faintine
condition. To prevent any such disas-
trous result again the number of presen-
tations this spring is to be limited Ia
200 at each reception. Meanwhile the
first ladies of our republic set a brilliant
example by holding weekly receptions,
at which 1t is not unusual for thou
sands of persons to be received in sin
gle afternoon. Exchange.
The herald., 1894-03-25

are employed for this style aud the
closely fitting skirt beneath shows
through the transparent folds Of the
paniers. but coon we shall have the
same fashion carried out in stif bro
csdes and molres. Even now q model
is being widely adopted that elbows
much befrilled skirt OF striped silk with
paniered polonaise bodice of fiowered
brocsde, made with big puffs drapiuR
over the hips, and deep pointed stom-
sOher reaching below the waist line in
bs1A 70 which the panisr is iullsd. A
The herald., 1894-03-25
Chicago's Woman Engineer.

Chicago now has woman engineer,
who has successfully passed the ordeal
Of rigid examination. A contempo-
rary says she was not let off easily either
because she was woman. In fact, the
writer says her examination was, if Gny-
thing, little more severe than usual.
The young woman walked into the board
Of examiners room in the city hail. pre-
The herald., 1894-03-25
REVOLVING Headgear.

A diamond tiara composed of great
many stones aSd which may be wound
up, setting all the diamonds revolving
like glittering rainbow, is a novelty
which a woman of quiet taste would
rather seq upon some one else than wear
herself. .--Exchange.
The herald., 1894-03-25
GIoveIess Brides.

The innovation of no gloves for brides
received fresh emphasis at the recent
wedding of the Hon. Nellie Bass in Eng
land. She wore rings enough to almost
cover her fingers, but no gloves. This
is very trying edicti for the whitest
of hands are apt to look red against the
snowiness Of a bridal gown.
The herald., 1894-03-25
The Twelfth Supreme Court Portia.

Miss Kate Pier of Milwaukee has
been admitted to practice before the
United States supreme court, making
the twelfth woman for whom the bars
Of that forum have been let down, the
first venturesome lady being Mrs. Belva
Lockwood, who was admitted in 1875.
Milwaukee Correspondent
The herald., 1894-03-25

What the opinion of college women is
on the question of suffrage may be gath
cred from the fact that 500 Wellesley
college women sent congratulatory
telegram to the Colorado Suffrage as
sociation when women gained the ballot
in that state.
The herald., 1894-03-25

Fashionable hairdressers say that hair
brushed to satin finish will be worn
in the near future, although the fringe
of short curls about the face will be re-
tanned, as they make woman look
The herald., 1894-03-25

1t is rumored that the new spriag
dress will be built with very long shou-
ders, sleeves fat in the head, but full
about the elbow, and tine skirt made
heavy and fussy with rufies and puiIs.
The herald., 1894-03-25
she Loves Doves.

Miss Louise Imogene Quincy, author
of "a Roadside Harp, in giving the
date of her birth for biographical note
recently, wrote playfully, Il am the
only lady with "a permanent date at
tached.'' Miss Quincy, who lately re-
The herald., 1894-03-25

ceived the appointment of postmaster at
her home village-Auburndale, Mass.
lis a great admirer of pigeons. II
greatly love, she says, "both the sight
and the sound of doves. boston Com
monMealth.
The herald., 1894-03-25

An association of women has bern
formed in Liverpool for the purpose of
petitioning shepkeepers to provide seats
for their employees.
The herald., 1894-03-25

After 43 years occupancy of the edi-
torial chair of an English periodical
Charlotte M. Young has been retired.
The herald., 1894-03-25

Barkis. still IL Is plainly noticeable that
overskirt and panier make headway in
tAvoH. and ID is q stssdy progress, if a
allow one. That it is deliberate there is
no denyiHE, bat If there is any truth in
the saw. slOw out sure. they will prevail
bafQTa long. Women In general don't
like ths thought of donning overskirts
and panisrs, and they are almost sure 10
speak Of Dolly Warden styles with sneer-
Ing eEephaaia. Nevertheless they are
watchdog Clesely the output of new
lshaDsa, as indeed. they must If they
hope % keep TO the fore in fashions fray.
when there comes Q cut Of either OF the
'dsspiasd styles which plesses 8 woman.
she will surrender and take it up, and as
legion OF them are eeming, recruits to
itha army oi reluctant acceptors are in
direct proportion to the number of new
wedels.
In thea aacs for favor the overskirt has
The herald., 1894-03-25

modification of the same effect shows
only the stOmacher and the paniers OF
brocade. epauletts-like pieces being at
tached to the stomacher, the whole pre-
ssnting the effect of skeleton bodice
to be treated as an accessory and worn
with a plain bodice and skirt.
General acceptance of the overekirt
will mean brisk business for dressmal;-
ers, and they fully realize it. So anxi-
Gus are they that the happy possibility
shall not escape them that an OCCASION
Fort Worth gazette. [volume] (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1891-1898, 1894-12-16
TABLE NAPKINS

Judge Romsen was asked what action
OF the Democrats would satisfy Mr..
Watson.
The reply was, Major Black has
agreed to resign his commission 70
congress- in March. A. the c0mins cleo
ton let the people elect Mr.. Wntaon
to congress and he, too, would ngrec
TO then rosign being natlHiied with
having the blot on MS eBcutcheon re-
moved. Unless the charge Is repudlat-
ed Mr.. Watson VIII keep up the night
until his death"
Tho sting OF the charge TRAITOR"
Mr.. Remsen says. Ia all that keeps Ar.
Watson agitatr1. and ~ soon as yindi-
cation comes Mr.. Watson viii retire
from public lie md never enter public
life again. The Judge says Mr.. Watson
has no desire 70 return 10 congress or
ambition TO hold public ofilcr. and
would not have entered the race had u
not been for the demand and strong
more intimate With Mr.. watson. or
understands HIN better than Judge
Rensen. The suggestion that both
Air. Watson and Major Black shah re-
main out OF the next election 70 al fol-
~. Mr. ReinHrn says. for tho re181n
that everybody knows Nr. watson ~
1000 stronger In this district than any
other member OF their party. Air.
Remsen says he knows n the Demo-
Gratis viii elect watson and then ist
him resign the Office. Mr. Watson VIII
ngree TO ~ for Il VIII be the vindleltion
he seeks and will satisfy him forever
Mr. Romaen Will remain IN Augusta 10
have a talk With Major George y.
Barnes and other prominent Demo-
crnts on the Iins above stated, and feel
the pulse OF the people on H.