Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1894-03-24
SLEEVE DIAGRAMS.

SLEEVE DIAGRAMS.
ing part does not count in the measure, Tor
that is arbitrary. Sometimes 1t IS very
high and at other times not more than to
give the necessary fullness to make it set
well.
The under portion should be three inches
narrower than the outside The measure
for width should be taken around the wrist
and at the top just where the seams join
As il is quite little trouble to measure
and diagram ior new pattern every time,
the clever dressmaker will draft one or two
good sleeve models-for long, slim arm and
for short, plump onc--and keep them al
ways ready where by a minutes work In
measuring for width and length any lady
can DO fitted with u sleeve. x
The next thing is to cut for balloon sleeve,
which Is now in its various notifications
the favorite. This can be easily done by
following the main features of the diagram.
The puff can be as full or scant as the wearer
desires, and it is usually cut on the cross OF
the goods, deep enough to reach the elbow,
and Ia gathered where the marks are. 1t
can be shrred ut the top and the fullness
thereby turned downward, or it can be cut
a trifle higher and gathered in with the
lining. 1t is to be basted on the lining and
sewcd and afterward drawn upward and
gathered and basted at the top of the sleeve
The front sleeve seam can then be sewed and
the sleeve finished off. The outer seam
should have been sewed before. The lower
arm portion should have had the outside
cut and firmly basted to the lining and
sewed up with the whole. The wrists are
now finished by narrow piping and are
faced with silk. and the best dressmakers
sprinkle a little violet or orris powder along
in the seam Where the wrists are to flare
triae and with all fine dresses an inter
lining of wigan is made at the wrists to keep
them smooth.
The puff may be heightened from two to
four inches and shirred directly in the md
die, while the rest is treated as for single
puff. or 1t can be held in by "a ribbon band.
All the variations are suggested by the fash
ion publications, and the dressmaker can
develop them from the foundation model.
The leg of mutton sleeve being just now
very fashionable and very difficult to make,
a careful diagram is given. which any lady
can follow who will draft the diagram on a
scale Of an inch to one-eighth of an inch
This Is very stylish sleeve and is well
adapted to all materials The sleeve joins
only on one side, and all the fullness comes
on the upper part. The lining to this-if
lining il use;l--is cut just like the outside
and should lie of light texture.
The sleeves should he cut SO that the line
marked straight is so with the thread. II
the goods OF which the sleeves are made IS
narrow, the seam must be made on the
cross, rs the diagonal line must be on the
true bias When cut and basted carefully,
the plnits should be laid In as marked anu
firmly fastered and the two places marked
Z brought together, SO that Is comes over
the three plaits and tibet AS meet. linen
the seam should be basted and sewed, when
the result will be real leg OF mutton
sleeve, like tie diagram, and the plain part
on the top allows for u bertha or bretelie
without throwing it out OF shape.
The sleeves to evening. dresses are all
modified balloon shape, but short, coming
in some cases quite to the elbow. but more
often finished off about four inches from the
the ssey I'VE insaa Be n r9nns she up @