Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1894-03-03
HOME DRESSMAKING..
FOUR DISTINCT SKIRTS AND HOW TO
CUT THEM.

The Umbrella, the Empire, the 1890 and
tho Circulsr-Not Difficult Task TO Cut
Them - Notes About the Trimming.
Pockets and Openings. a.
copyright, 1853. by American Press Associa~
toni
There are now four distinct skirts, known
respectively as umbrella. empire, 1880 and
the circular. The circular is complete cir
Gle, with the center cut ont for the waist,
the rest falling in loose folds all around and
with no seam except that in the back very
like those Of last season, but fuller. 1t re-
quires double width material to cut these.
The top is fulled in to the belt to cause it to
fit over the hips.
The umbrella style requires nine breadths
and is narrow at the top and extremely far
ing, and generally some kind Of trimming
outlines each seam.
The empire is composed Of eight breadths,
and the 1890 is made very full and faring,
sometimes plain from top to bottom. but
more often with a founce set on, which Is
cut in partial circle so as to give the ap-
-
ally the case, it, is headed by n narrow ruffie,
or the Joining is covered by some special
trimming.
In most cases these are cut in the form OF
a half circle, but in others they are cut in
sections, with the wide end downward and
the top Of each followed out little and
the bottom rounded to give it a flare.
The empire skirt is cut much like any
other but there are eight breadths as
against the five The top of the front
breadth measures from to inches across
the top and flares to 90 at the bottom. 1t
IL cut lengthwise on the fold. The next six
breadths are inches across the top and re-
spectively 10. 90 and 22 at the bottom. The
back breadth is 40 inches all along and cut
to short train in the back. The top of the
back breadth is entirely taken up in plaits,
making this skirt 80 inches around the
waist. In case the wearer is more slender
the breadths can be sloped in at the top or
gathered slightly to bring it to the re-
qiired size.
The pattern of skirt is so easily drafted,
given the measurement of length and waist
band, that few instructions are needed 9th
er than to say that they should be cut on
the straight and right side up where there
is nap or pattern. Where the goods are
alike, like plain silk cashmere, etc, the
cores can be peced, as is shown on the diar
gram, by taking what comes from the top
and adding it on the bottom, but this is not
advisable if there is plenty of goods. Some
times two breadths can be got from one
width of cloth by adding these triangular
pieces. Sometimes by laying one breadth
that means double) up and the other down
when cutting two can be cut without
piecing, but this will do only in cashmere,
plain silk, cottons and chevrons, cheviOts
and plain napless goods of extra width
Velvet and velutina should never be cut
"up and down." as there is always differ
ence in the shading.
The stiff skirt lining now used may be OF
crinoline, horsehair or wigan. If of horse
hair, the edges must be firmly bound with
strong material, so that the hairs will not
stick through and irritate the wearer, the
facing to be cut just the shape of the bot
tom and can be as deep as desired. 1t is
better to have it made separate and cat
stitch It to the lining, leaving the lower
edge to come even with the bottom of the
skirt. 1t should be in turn faced with al
paca or black silk stitched on with ma
chine n three or four rows of the stitch
ing are sewed around, they make the skirt
stand out better When these are first
basted twice around the bottom and then
cat stitched on, the edge should be care
fully trimmed and then bound with bias
velutina, which comes in pieces for that
purpose. IL needs more than one bunch
as the skirts are SO large around. This is
to be basted with the velvet part to the
skirt and turned upward on the outside
and basted with a strong thread, which is
to remain in. Then it should be stitched
and finally turned and felled down strongly
to the under side.