The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1894-10-04

Il I
Paris and Berlin for
has existed until now, and during the
last 10 years Americans have been
establishing mode for themselves born
Of something more distinctively Amer
lean and suitable to the American type
The Berlin fashions are nearer suited 70
Americans than those of Paris or Lo::-
don The French styles always have
something about them that seems arti-
fetal, and they lack the quiet grace and
dignity of the German fashions. The
English succeed only in their tailor
made costumes, and their charm is the
rigidity of line and perfection and
smoothness of finish. The American Re-
quires something more than these and
it is TO be hoped that the new departure
will meet with the success it deserves
The worst of it Is that the word i'm
ported seems TO exercise a potent charm
upon all women, and that word often
covers a host of deficiencies that the
buyers would not overlook if they knew
the garment In question was of home
manufacture The imported gowns AID
wraps are made TO look perfect in them
selves, and there are few, very few,
women capable of Judging for them
selves as to the real suitability and be-
comingness of an imported garment, as
it looks so well III the fancy box or on
the lay figure. IL is only when the gar
ment is bought and taken home and laid
beside her other belongings that the
American realizes that she has not
spent her money TO the best advantage
al
very beautiful gowns, etc, imported,
but think few of them are, aside from
the fact that some great dressmaker or
other has his name stamped ON the belt
lining, ever as genuinely satisfactory a.
the gowns made here and adapted TO the
wearer's every need and intended to
hide every deficiency, and there is an
other thing-some of the most fashiona-
BILE modistes of New York do import q
few models every season, and from thesc
designs hundreds of other gowns are
made up of domestic silks and other
fine materials and sold as gowns direct
from so and so of Paris, Berlin or Lon
dom These have all the faults of thu
originals and in most instances lack tie
fneness of finish The stamped belts.
which are supposed TO be proof most
positive that the garment is imported.
are woven not far from Canal street.
New York Our. domestic silks are
really better because made with less OF
chemical weighing than the forcigI
silks, and the designs are almost exact
ly the same. Americans should wear
American silks, but they ought to do -
knowing it and not believing them In.
ported
Now that | have in measure reIiev-
ed my mind on this subject / will tel;
you what the earliest importations are e
De for fall and how they are to be made
up. In the first place. may mention
that the 1880 styles will be worn Is
much as they have been, and the most
of the most stylish of them will have
all the 1880 characteristics considera-
bly, accentuated if possible. The bre
telles will be wider and sitter, the Der
thas more awkward and ungraceful, ana !
the skirts will be quite two inches short |
er than they now are. Jet Will have =
much larger place III women 5 costumes |
than ever before. IL Will be applied III |
every conceivable way. l have seen reg |
ular breastplates of it aud pointed stom
acherS and berthas and bretelles where |
the heads Were strung on fine wires, so |
that when woven into the pattern the |
whole was Is stiff Is cardboard. There |
are openwork jet collars, cuffs, plas- |
irons, hgaros, EtOns, panels, corselets |
and / know not what else | might |
the guimpes, also of wire WOW
EN- jetwork. Aside from this there Is Z
limitless number of passementeries,
fringes and set ornaments, combining
large and small beads, and saw a
quaint looking fringe called ''bugles,''
where there was one long narrow bead |
with large one below it. Some of these
bugle fringes are of fiuted or lusterless
beads, and they will be used for mourn
ing mostly.
Next TO beadwork will come the
heavy laces for trimmings. Point de
Tenise viii be laid on fiat and in some
,ases picked out with beads of one kind
II another on rich and heavy goods.
Flat bands of velvet and rolls of heavy
satin will be used as skirt trimming.
md the gauffered founce Is fixed fact.
This viii be headed with narrow bead
ng and may be straight around or fes-
coined.
While the French authorities have
ixed upon the 1880 styles As the vogue
or this season, there Will still be many
ersOns who either do not like them or
ld them unbecoming, and such can
I'd among the less pronounced German
tyIes something to suit them, or they
IN have the English tailor gowns, or
hey can combine the best ideas of ali
,Iree distinct modes if they Will have
1eir dresses made 1t home
The newest of the fall goods is para
cetta cloth, which is something like
" armura weave: q soft WOODEN satin |