Walker Lake bulletin. (Hawthorne, Nev.) 1883-1926, 1894-12-05
ON DRESS COATS.
The Black Jacket With its Roll
Collar
HAS ALONE FOUND TOLERATION.
Endeavor to Resuscitate Knee-Breeches
and Silk Stockings Has Died
Natural Death.

years, been made from time TO time,
says the "Pall Mall Budget, to alter
our existing evening dress, but the
black jacket with its roll collar has
alone found liberation, and that only on
a few occasions, such as at quiet din
ner in the country or ones own club,
or in the lounge at music-hall. The
endeayor to resuscitate -breeches
and silk stockings has died a natural
death; and few bold spirits who used
to affect blue dress-coat, with high
velvet collar and brass buttons, under
went much ridicule in vain. The
world of dandydom was once electrified
with rumor that the Heir APPARENT
had commanded velvet dress-coat, but
the report probably had its origin in
the eagerness of the tailors for con-
summation no doubt by them deyoutly
to be wished.
Costly thy habit as thy purse can
buy but not expressed in fancy" is
excellent advice at present day, and
especially in the case OF our dress
clothes The dandy makes the blunder
of emitting the second half Of it. 1t is
his Joy to deck himself with black
satin, or watered silk facings, unstead
of with plain but rich silk; he has
been known to wear waistcoats of
white satin. and even dress ties of the
same gaudy material, nor is the black
watered silk waistcoat unknown on
him. His cloth has ventured into an
attempt at a pattern with ribs and even
squares. He stuck at one time scarlet
and other gaudy -colored silk handker-
chiefs into the bosom of his waistcoat;
he sported. and perhaps still sports,
red socks, or black hose SO brilliantly
embroidered as to be almost Extensively
conspicuous The enormous space Of
his shirt-front has exhibited at various
times diaper work, spots arranged in
geometrical patterns. and effeminate
embroidery. Even the material of his
ties has been as largely patterned as
possible, and vile attempts have been
made to edge the bow with black, after
the fashion of mourning writing paper.
His jewelry has been as pretentious as
he can make it, and his centre stud in
size and appearance has resembled a
Catherine wheel. We have even seen
such stud which consisted of min
ute watch surrounded by diamonds.
On the other hand, there is ample
choice in the material and fashion of
dress clothes without descending into
the realms of fancy. The broadcloth
which. some twenty years ago, was
almost universal. has now almost en-
tirely been superseded by other stuffs.
Perhaps the best known and the most
popular is twilled cloth of various
degrees OF fineness or breadth of rib
The next most common at the moment,
especially for winter suits, is the soft
smooth cloth called by the tailors
"vicuna In addition to these there
are many other excellent fabrics OF
which we do not pretend to know the
names. A white waistcoat should not,
Of course, be worn on every possible
occasion. as is the fond idea of many
of our young men, and there is no need
to search for more remarkable stuff
for it than simple duck, drill or pique.
Similarly the well-dressed man will be
content to have his black waistcoats to
match his coats
Dress coats, like all coats at the pres
ent time, are inclined just now to be
long rather than short. 1t is i'll the
shape of their collars that you will
find the most variety. The silk-cov-
cred roll collar is always in fashion,
more or less-at the moment rather
less-except in the case of the dress
jacket, for which it seems the only
collar at all desirable. The collar
with lapel is of at least four sorts
In its simplest form it has no silk fac
ing at all; next, it possesses an inside
of silk with cloth edging and cloth
collar; thirdly, it has cloth collar,
but the whole lapel Of silk; and lastly,
both collar and lapel are entirely silk
covered, as in the case of the roll collar.
A dress coat has long ceased to but
ton. Consequently, though it still
possesses couple of buttons on each
tonholes, excepting the lapel button
hole, and this has, of course, no CORES
ponding button. Buttons ON the sleeve
have of late years varied from four, or
even six, downward. If you are anx-
ious to be up to date, we believe that
single one is considered correct at the
present moment. Fashion also ordains
that the dress jacket may have an out
side dress pocket, but that the coat may
not. Waistcoats have now for some
time been worn double breasted, but as
fashion is always eager for change in
such trifies. it may be that the single
variety will soon be again at the top.
In the matter of trousers, fashion
has no choice but to follow the every
day shape. There are signs, however.
that the girth from the knee downward
has now tendency to diminish. At
intervals she tolerates braid down
the seams Of the legs. This notion
was no doubt originally borrowed from
the military. Its most recent express
sion took the form of two strips of
narrow braid with a space between