The evening world., 1894-03-26
GEM OF THE SPANISH MAIN.
THE BEAUTIFUL SCENERY AND
FINE CLIMATE or JAMAICA.
II WINS Once the Rendezvous Of
Famous Duccnnccrs.

When Columbus llkCnCl Jamaica to u
Crumpled sheet of paper he gave to
Isabella II better description Of the ap-
pearance of the island than he could
have probably given her in words. At
first, as the steamer approaches from the
northeast II seems n great rock rising
boldly from the deep blue waters of the
Caribbean.
Approaching the coast, says the Wash
ington Post. great mountains loom up,
piled one on the other In endless con-
fusion, gradually the dark spots develop
into great patches OF forest. the lighter
spots into fields of guinea grass; valleys
open up. sometimes with steep prccipi-
tous sides like the CANYONS of the
Rockies. through which rush mountain
torrents that are Sorcly but surely lev
elliug these great mountains and spread
ing them out evenly upon the floor of
the sea.
The rivers in Jamaica are somewhat
unique. Receiving their volume from
the great rainfall upon the mountain
tops; they pour down the valleys, carry
ing bouldcrs and masses of rock, then
sometimes suddenly disappearing below
the surface to reappear again further
down, like great springs boiling out
of the earth. n few of these rivers
never reach the sea, FOR in attemptinG
to cross the hot low plains of the south
ern shore they evaporate and are car
ried back by the sea breezes to recon
dense and start the process over again.
The majority OF the streams do reach
the sea and often annoy the traveller
who must ford them, for they are some
times too capriCious to be bridged.
The steamer from New York passes
the eastern extremity of the island. and
proceeds along the southern coast of
Port Royal, the sentinel and protector
of Kingston which Is the capital and
chief nf Jamaica situated we'll
back within the good harbor. one can
not help viewing Port Royal with IA de-
gree OF interest. once the richest place
vous of the famous buccaneers who
sailed the Spanish Main and brought
here their ill-gotten gains to live in
wild, barbaric luxury and dissipa ation.
When England's gunboats brought law
and order into her West Indian posses
sions, the glory of Port Royal departed.
Fire and earthquake have played havoc
here and Yellow Jack has made some
costly visits. 1t looks innocent enough
now in its grove of cocoanuts, only some
rusty old cannon giving evidence of its
past.
Kingston Is not disappointing to the
Northern visitor. 1t Is essentially trOpi.
cal as regards streets and houses and
the swarms of barefooted darkies that
lounge or shuttle along. Strange trees
! throw their branches over the roofs of
the dwellings, and the gardens are rich
, IN vegetation new and curious. Buz.
zards-big red-headed fellows-percl
ON the housetops, fences, or hitching-
posts always on, the. cross over the
churches and lazlly wink at one. Little
! toy horse-cars. with barefooted driver
ana conduoto go rattling by; barefOoted
women innumerable move along with
loads upon their heads--a ba slet OF
fruit, a bundle OF clothes, a small bottle
chicken, anything you wish. the heat
IL the place to carry 1t. Small black
policemen In big white hats look i'm.
I fnF th..NF l..
thing seems queer to the uninitiate ted
/ Northerner In this tropical city.
, one wishing to really see and know
Jamaica must take a trap and drive
are excellent. but the coast road that
encircles the island touching at every
port, is a magnificent piece of work
The tourist making this drive about so
yeniences. must expect some rain. indlf
ferent accommodations and irregular
meals. although sometimes the boart
may be good, but they may prove poor
little weaklings. and the driver may de
tp relop ar an astonishing thirst for rum be
e ,pre me Journey Is done. But with al
the drawbacks the trip pays.
The reward IL scenery, rich I'm colo
and often grand in outline. There ar,
groves OF cocoanuts, waving their grace
mana plantations. There are great for
ests of trees covered and strangled il
, the death-llke embrace of vines nnr
| creepers: deep woods, dark and silent
! old sugar estates, with ruined mills over
grown with creepers and wild pineapple
! Great silk cotton trees the mona rchs o
these woods: risc, tall and majestic, theil
wIde-spreHding branches covered viii
orchids and parasites. Then there Is :
grazing country in the west. saved only
from monotony by great clumps OF BAN
boo. There. is fascination in thes,
lunches of grass sixty to eighty fee
+ tall-a subtle charm and grace. Then
too there are forests of spice and log
wood, twisted and gnarled. The noun
tain scenery is grand and wild. witt
VistaS Of palms.
! The country is fairly teeming with lif,
pretty little lizards. green or iridescen
the fan-leaved palms or into the Grey
ices of walls, while butterflies, brilliantly
! yellow, and birds constantly fit about
The journey is finished all too soon. anC
! In retrospect seems like a bright dream
Tor 1t Is the happy quality of the hu
man mind to forget disasreeable fea
| lures that were mere instances in a de
| lightful experience.
| Outside of the glory of the tropical veg
| citation and the study OF nature In hei
, pleasantest mood. the most interesting
| thing In Jamaica Is the Jamaica negro
| He is everywhere and always on hand
to say pleasant good marnln'. Massa
| or ask for Il penny. He Is happy dev.!
may-care sort OF fellow, shiftless and ir
| responsible. He means well, but is gen
! orally too lazy to permit of his good vii
| doing practical bene!it-such as climbing
| u cocoanut tree to get you fresh nut
| His language detes grammar, and hi
| pronunciation of the English words Is On
tirely his own. His wife does most o
| the work in the country. which Is Iii
| tie enough, for his fruit trees furnish
| him food: cocoanut leaves and mud arr
| the materials for his hut. and his clothes
| are scarcely enough II meet the or linarN
| demands Of modesty. His children ar,
| often entirely innocent OF wearing ap
| parel
| Time and separation from thei