The morning call., 1894-11-29
BRILLIANT TOlLETTES.
Triumphs of the Modiste's Art
Round the Arena.

Inc QreSS display IN the evening was
magnificent. There was no doubt about
the women being we'll dressed during the
morning and afternoon, but it was the
kind of good dressing in which simplicity
is written in large letters over every de-
tail of the toilette, from the crown of the
bonnet to the shoe tips.
AN We shall walk in silk ATTIRE" is not
the swagger thing nowadays for the morn
ing. When the best set put on gorgeous
apparel, it is generally to sit at home, or
drive to some full-dress occasion, and the
brilliants aud and fashionables at the
horse show did not want to be tied 10 their
seats. In the morning particularly, a
number of the ladies inspected the stables.
guided round in many instances by the
owners of some of the sleek beauties that
so proudly paved the sawdust of their
stalls.
Satins and velvets would have been out
of place even in such model stables as
those at the horseshow, and satin S and vel
vets, indeed. were conspicuous by their
absence. The women in the morning
were for the most part tailoT-made. They
wore cloth gowns that fitted like gloves,
small cloth coats or capes, and bonnets
and hats that had cost in proportion to
their simplicity.
In the afternoon there was just little
more dresSiness about the costumes. One
well-known woman for instance wore
claret-cOlored walking gown, heavily
trimmed with black silk MORE and another
a black silk dress with mantle of velvet
and sable Nearly all the colors, however,
were very subdued
But in the evening the women in the
boxes made up for their abstinence in the
matter of display during the hours of day.
irrhS Nan pf fto dom inn
i'm pOrtations that might have been called
demi- toilettes. but verged more nearly on
full evening dress. There were all the
llghtest and newest shades, and the
most MAGNIFICENT materials used in the
more brilliant ICON tectlNns," and many of
the wearers OF these gowns gave the pub
lie an opportunity of admiriDg them on
the promenade. Light silk waists, with
black silk or velvet skirts, were worn to a
certain extent also, and number Of the
fashionable prnmenaders were gowned
simply but richly in black satin or velvet.
trimmed with jet or lace.
Among the numerous costly dresses
some of the most admired were those
worn by:
Mrs. Fl. S. Croker, the wife of the
president, who looked as If she had stepped
from canvas painted by Vatican or
GreuZe. in her picturesque gown of old
gold satin, brocaded in velvet with carna-
IlOlS ana VlDlelS, DS COTbdH6 was
trimmed with bertha of Old-god chiffon,
that fell in long folds over the shoulders.
The hat worn with this costume was a
Gains borough of copper-cOlOred velvet,
ornamenttd with shaded plumes to match
the tnts of the brocade.
Mrs. Frank Carolan Jr attracted con-
siderable notice in black satin gown, the
corsage of VIII ch was almost covered with
iridescent beads. The sleeves of this
gown were of pale yellow transparent
chiffon, bouffante, and the bonnet sworn
with corGnet of diamonds with black
aigretteS and black gnuzs rossttes.
Miss Hager wore black silk skirt with
light p"id waist of gros-grain silk, and a
black Galnsber0ugh hat with black pIumes.
Miss Alice Hager was gowned 10 pale
yellow crepe gofre, trimmed With light
blue rosettes. Her bonnet wasia tiny little
creation # pa blue, trimmed with violets.
Miss Goad's costume was black and pale
lilac, the skirt being black and the blouse
corsage pale lilac 81 k. draped with white
lace and trimmed with narrow black VEL
vet. The hat was a large black velvet
one garnished with ostrich piumes and
pal"-llac rose ties.
Miss Aileen Goad wore black and pale
pink.
Miss Irving NJ. Seotts gown was dark
fawn brocaded silk, with large velvet
sleeves of the same shade. The bonnet.
mented with heIiotrope.
Mrs. VIII CrOcker wore dark-blue silk
MORE gown made somewhat loosely, with
Zuave jacket heavily embroidered with
pearls and blue iridescent jet. With this
costume was worn II small blue hat
trimmed with wings.
Nine. de Guigne, black velvet
Mrs Jack Parrot, black silk and jet.
Mrs. Frank Sullivan, black velvet and
white silk.
Mrs Auzeras, white crepe shirt,
draped with butterfly horns. Over this
were worn long lapels of white gros-gratn
silk. hand-painted. with porples and
tulips. The corsage was Graped with
lace and ornamented with pearls.
Miss Hobart was gOwned in white satin,
the full sleeves and the vest OF which
were covered with cream cOlored duchesee
lace. The upper part of the corsage was
ornamente6 with white satin emb roidered
with Jet With this was worn a diamond
toque trimmed with black aigrettes.
Miss Alice Hobart wore pale fawn silk,
with full sleeves and vest of white lace.
The hat was of velvet, trimmed with black
plumes and large diamond buckle.
Mrs. Joseph Robertson. black silk, bro
caded with sprays OF blue flowers The
corsage was ornamented with Dale-blue
velvet and with a number of diamond loops
and pins. The bonnet was of blue velvet,
and completing the costume was a large
blue fea tner fan.
Mrs. Clark Croeker was very simply
gowned in black silk. Miss Croker wore
olive-green velvet. the corsage being orna-
mented with a vest of pale-green and pink
sntin. The bonnet was Of pale-green vel
vet and pink roses.
Mrs. Webster Jones' gown was pink
crepe with very full sleeves. The ccrsage
was wound with black net striped with
jet. The large hat was trimmed with
black pIumes and diamond buckles.
Mrs. G. Warden was gOwned in black
satin ornamented with profusion of pink
velvet bands and bows; her small diamond
bonnet was trimmed with pink.
Mrs. A. n. Towne wore a magnificent
black velvet wrap. trimmed with ermine /;
beneath this was a dress of black satin,
cut away at The neck, revealing a vest of
white silk.
Mrs. N. M. Woods, black velvet robe,
appllqued with Irish point lace, small
blue and black bonnet, ornaments dia-
monds.
Mrs. Crockett. fawn.colored shot silk,
trimmed with steel.
Mrs. e. Eyre Jr., black and white silk.
striped gown. small black and magenta
bonnet.
Mrs. Major Rathbone, white chiffon silk,
with beliOIrope, colored chrysanthemums
~ the corsage. Over this gown was worn