Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1894-01-06

| copyright, 1885, by American Press Associa-
toni
A LII Paris is France, or
~ rather all France is Par
is, but other countries
are not all like that.
For instance, there is
= London. but it is not all
England. In other lands the smaller
cities have something of an individuality
of their own, but not so in this delight
full country. All the best and brightest
of all the country gathers in this great
capital, and that is what makes Paris so
enticing. In England, for instance, ev-
cry town will have its flower show and
London its own social functions, but
when the day of Vernissage comes
around all Paris-more, all France.
gathers to see the pictures. Yes, and
! people from many other countries also
show themselves on that Important day.
notice three different AMI distinct
styles which will be in fall vogue this
season. One is Louis XVI, and another
Louis XIV, and the other based upon the
1880 models. These distinct styles are
mingled with Russian ideas and tainted
with breath of the Incroyable period,
hut somehow they all manage to be
pretty and some of them really artistic.
On the jour de Vernissage there We're
| some most elegant costumes worn by
| the flower of la belle France, and chose
three costumes to illustrate the three
fancies, each greatly modified from the
original. One had mauvc satin duch-
esse skirt, with tablier oversllirt Of
pearl gray broadcloth, with three bias
| folds around the front The tablier was
slightly Topped on the hips, and opened
in the back under the long sashlike tabs,
which allowed the satin to be seen to
| the waist line. There was snug basque
slightly pointed in front and back, fast
ening 10 the left with three gray silk
buttons. There WAS bertha Of folds.
and ut the wrists there were three other
folds, each having u sill, button. There
was vest Of Persian novelty silk and
| standing collar of the same. The hat
was plateau of cream colored felt,
trimmed with mauve velvet and q maize
plume.
Another toilet was composed of rich mas
turtium seed, green peau de sole uuie, the
skirt open in front over panel of garnet
velvet, and hanging in the rich trumpet
! folds in the back. The basque was cut
away in front and fastened invisibly
| There We're eight garnet velvet rosettos
set like buttons on the basque, which
huI n bot on, .n,s1a pTt L.. D.
open in the back to tho waist line, where
there Were two more roscttes. There
were wide incroyablc revers and fat col
lar and a vest Of white kid with q rufle
of plated mousseline dc sole. The
sleeves were made in twopuffs Of garnet
velvet, which did not reach quite TO the
elbow. The rest of the sleeve was O!
white kid, embroidered with white ana
| gray silk and few silver beads. The
hat was tricorne of garnet velvet and
gray felt bordered with pearl beads
There was yellow bird Of curious spe
cies upon it. To wear these tricornc
hats and look well in them tho hair
should be pulled or curled up high on
the sides.
l might mention here, too, that the
sleeves on all but the most pronounced
1880 styles are shrinking TO mere reason
able dimensions.
A third gown was Of ciel blue fine
broadcloth and had plain skirt with
| imperceptble seams. The back was
heavily plated, but the front fitted
smoothly over the hips. The skirt opened
IL tst~n
dore velvet. and along each side was a
] fine line Of braiding. Around the bot
| tom were four rows of narrow mordore
velvet ribbon. There was sash belt of
the same, held with gold buckle. The
waist was gathered in front, and one
part of it was laid in natural loose folds
over TO the right shoulder. There WAS a
Spanish jacket Of dark slate cloth, Dor.
| dered by mordore and trimmed with the
narrow braid. The jacket was nearly
covered with an embroidered pattern Of
black and gold. The sleeves were plain
coat, with loose caps, which were trim
med with the velvet and braid. The bon
net was of mordore and cream felt. with
| ciel blue plumes and cherry velvet bow.
By the way, cherry red is one Of the
| popular colors. I saw q black g1mure
silk made in the plainest princess style,
with every seam piped with line Of
| cherry satin. There was double gauf-
| fered hounce around the bottom, and
this was piped with the red ON both
edges, and the whole gown was truly ar
| tistic and much admired
Nearly every wrap, jacket or mantle
seen now has some suggestion Of Russia
in it, but | should not forget to mention
that there is q new and most decided
fancy for rough goods made in regular
monk shape for wraps. There are capu-
chin hoods and cowls Of every shape end
size. and coarse cords that look like
ropes are tied about the waists and
Threats. Curiously enough these gar
ments are worn to balls and operas more
than elsewhere.
Low necked gowns are not absolutely
obligatory for dinners this season, and
many ladies' compromise ON handsome
dresses with a plastron front of lace or
some other light and delicate material.
opening the dress but slightly v share
at the throat. Still there are many
gowns very much cut away. These are
Of two styles-ono cut pompadour and
the other low on the shoulders and high
across the bust, | have fancy that
those whose shoulders are pretty wear
| the latter, aud the others the former.
The 1880 style demands wide berthasa and
/ pulled sleeves. The other is easily man
I aged and much more becoming. no
tiee very many evening gowns in modi-
fed princess shape, and still more with
short panier effects and tabliers. The
basque. with its full sprung or rufiled
skirt, seems TO be exactly adapted % 90
with the tablier fronts. These, when
well chosen-and all Paris gowns are
well chosen az far as colors go-are GER
tainly pretty.
Among some Of the novelties Of the
season are chargeable felts for hats ana
bonnets, and these have the hues Of
feathers woven in the edges and curled
/ slightly, which gives a most bizarre bat
not unpieasing appearance. Some Of the
bonnets are not much larger than tine
palm Of ones hand. One saw was made
/ of white felt, with 10 trimming what
ever but a loose bunch Of velvet grass.
which looked as if it had been carelessly
thrown on it. It drooped over the brinl,
front and back, and looked most Dcauti-
full on the golden hair Of the wearer.
4 The use Of embroidered kid for dress
T.. -.