davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

ing into uncomfortable irritation their ten
der necks and wrists. Why will mothers
torture their little children so? A child
couldn't play ring around rosy" in such
frock. because it won't fill out with the
air right, and that would spoil half the
fun. And it wouldn't if it could because
it would be afraid to go home with grass
stains on it's frock and wrinkles in its alb
surd sash. Women whose fretting has
faded their charm should remember that
childhood needs no artificial aid to make
it sweet. While they need fine clothes and
frizzes and powder to conceal sallow skin,
their little children are most charming
when free from all artificial embellish-
ments. Childhood is it's own best beauty.
Make childhood comfortable and it will
be happy and sweet. Now, here is a frock
that a child can be comfortable in. Three
yards of Bingham, spool of thread and
nimble fingers will make it in an hour. 1t
costs but cents a yard, and one for each
day in the week will cost altogether less
than one of the stiffiy starched and en-
broidered white frocks that a child natur-
ally hates. The six ginEhams-whch must
never be starched-wil wear like sole
leather, and they are not hard to wash;
they hold their color well, and. being so
simply made. are less trouble to iron the
whole six of them, than the one white
dress. And, oh, the comfort of them, Why,
some children are simply hectored into i'll
health in the summer through caring for
their smart clothes.
There is one thing that they do better
in England than they do in this country
Childhood is a period of simple care-free
existence. The little ones are dressed plain
and modest untrimmed white for Sunday
The children of royalty are dressed r.ore
plainly than the children of the middle
class people of this country.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

other. They have been growing steadily
in popularity during the winter, although
the style is very much better adapted to sum-
ner wear. Some men wore them with frock
coats during the winter, and few were
seen at dances, but this seems hardly per-
missible. They are adapted to informal
wear, for which winter life gives few oppor-
tunities. They look best when worn with
butterfly tie, al: hough they are worn with
four-in-hand, as well as the broad Ascot
scarf.
Spring gloves for men are almost as
varied in shade as those that women wear.
For afternoon use the pale gray and tan
suede are the newest The kid is light in
weight, and without the heavy stitching
that has been worn lately. They have
simply three lines Of thin stitching on the
back. The thick white dogskin glove that
Frenchmen wear in the afternoon is seen
occasionally here on riders in the park.
Colored handkerchiefs had a renaissance in
London last winter which extended to this
country, and has exhibited vigor enough TO
last into the spring. They are worn, how
ever. only with a checked or colored suit,
and never with a frock coat The most
colored of them all show a narrow band of
the four edges. Fine linen or silk go with
full dress, whether it be in the afternoon
or evening.
FIanneIs, Hats and Ties.
The flannels now are usually in pale
brown and gray checks. of a cooler ma
terial than the old suits We're made, and
far more durable in the matter of wear
They require as much skill in the making
as an ordinary suit, and cost almost as
much, but they are entirely suitable for
city wear on the warmest summer day.
There was revolt last summer against
the extremely PREDETERMINED straw hats
which had been worn for the two proceed
ing years. The indications are that this
year crowns will go up in height and the
brims become much narrower.
Summer neckwear is usually only a
change from silk and satin to pongees and
cambria. The form of it changes little.
The Ascot, butterfly and fourth hand ties
are reproduced in pongees. cheviots and
cambria. In the cotton goods they come in
dainty colors, and the pongees show in
variable polka dots, as popular as ever
with an endless combination of white and
red figures on a dark blue ground. Moth
ing is better form now than the designs in
red, yellow and blue. which are copied
from Indian silks. In the cambria ties,
which are most all made to be worn in the
form of a butterfly, are blues, reds and
pinks, which are always good style. The
pale greens and heliotropes ought to be
avoided. The form of scarf worn so much
for the last two years, which consisted of
a small four-in-hand tightly tied with the
broad ends stretched out, is on the down.
ward career The old style Ascot, tied fiat
without any puff, is rapidly returning TO
favor among well-dressed men, who, in
fact never entirely abandoned it.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The first Illustration represents one of
three little girls who are to dance The
Dairy Maids Drill" The pretty blouse
waist and generously proportional sleeves
are of fine white null, while the unlined
petticoat is of palest green China silk,
decorated with lengthwise stripes OF bril-
hantly hued ribbons, no two being of the
same color. The ribbon is again used lin
vivid conibinations) on the waist, crossir z
front and back from shoulders to waist,
as shown in the picture. The belt If var
tously toned ribbons, braided together in
four strands, is finished with large ribbon
rosettes, one on each side of the waist
center. from which f1utter innumerable gay
steamers.
The large leghorn fat Is dyed a brilliant
scarlet and trimmed with an elaborate
wreath of field flowers. BLACK silk stock
tngs and silver-buckled patent feathers COM
plete a costume which is utterly irresist-
ible in its coquettish ensemble. a notice
able feature of all these costumes is the
total absence of ballet skirts. which for
50 long have been popular for these small
Interpreters of the terpsichorean art. The
skirts now used cling lovingly to the active
little bodies. producing an effect at once
graceful and aesthetic. AS a rule no petit
coats are worn, but should one seem de-
sirable. IL must be simply a piece of lace
founcing measuring just the length of the
skirt and sewed in a knife-plea-ilg to the
waistband.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The accompanying sketch represents q
Young lady who leads a graceful band OF
Youthful Amazons in a dance which is
composed almost entirely OF charming
marches and graceful posings. The
cuirass is represented by a low, sleeveless
bodice of silk overlaid with a network of
silver chains with full sleeve ruffies of
silver dotted tulle. The petticoat is a full
one of white china silk, which is used as a
foundation for another skirt, which is a
single rather scant ruffle of the silvered
tulle Over this, falling from the deeply
pointed bodice, is light chain network of
silver, from which hang long ball-tipped
pendants. With this are fiesh-colored hos
iery, silver-worked slippers and light metal
shield. helmet and silver lance. The tout
ensemble is more like a glittering vision
than anything else can think Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

usual, colored shirts will be popular and
the best makers show them with stripes
running up and down. The latest brought
over from London are in narrow stripes
of dark blue or red close together, but
each broad enough to be plainly defined
They have the same designs in other col
ors, and some of them with rather wider
spaces between the stripes show the three
colors. red, white and blue, together.
Some made for country wear have turned
down cellars of the same goods, the stripes
running around the collar. Others have the
high standing collar, which already threat
ems to be worn here very generally this
summer. They are practically the only
thing In mems fashions that is decidedly
new. Some few were seen here last year,
but the fashion has had a hard struggle,
although it comes to us with the best Lon
don backing. These collars are as high as
the ordinary standing collar, but are turn
ed over until one side is as deep as the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

color. One rarely sees in England the very
light suits which we wear here.
We look to England for our style in cloths
and cuts. An Englishman who aims TO be
well dressed wears in the country only the
suits which we know as Sacks" or cuta-
way suits, but we take our ideas Of pat
terms and styles from them.
The checks this summer are in shades of
brown and dark blue relieved and defined
by threads of lighter color. The check is
often defined by lines from one and a half
to two inches apart, so that in small sam
pies the check shows very little. 1t is large
and well defined, however, being saved from
conspicuousness only by the neutral tints
Of the colors of these new cloths. The new
est of them are loosely woven, and the
threads are coarse and thick, and the weav-
ing is Of the style technically known as
"honeycomb." These goods are Scotch in
make and are practically a novelty. They
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The following sketch illustrates one little
girls idea of how violet should appear If
humanized and transformed into herself
The blouse waist, butterfly sleeves and
straight skirt are palest violet silk while
great punches Of the deeply colored flowers
are nasSei in epdulettes on the shoulders
and a single row outlines the lower edges
Of the opening. The belt is n w-inkled one
Of deep violet silk, with large flower
rOsettc, from which fiutter loops and ends
OF Violet ribbons. The full skirt has an
~~r'~'i~ E~~- h0~|'Pr of violets, arranged as
shown in the sketch.
.-.,.r ...t-J bookings and undressed kid
silly .crS "-itH sJNcr gaSettes put the finish
ing touch 10 the delicious little toilette.
B. V. X
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The accompanying Illustration of the
semi-formal cutaway is done in the per-
sonality of a contemporaneous young club
man, who gets the coat because he knows
what 1t is and knows it is right The ex-
ample that he wears, says the New York
Herald, has the correct lines of styles as
to length, detail and finish, particularly as
to the skirt being moderated from the
English model, and falls well below the
knee, touching the top Of the calf, thus
securing the essential effect of greater
length from the waist line down.
The Van Glider semi-formal cutaway is
the one you see, and it is fact that the
line OF the waist line is on an exact line
with the bottom of the waistcoat in front
Here is the essential detail that gives a
smartness and perfect balance to the gar
ment, which is only worn by the Van
Glider type until the followers of the ad-
vance fashion get on to IL.
The Smartest coat OF the year was the
one worn by several of the discerning
swells at the horse show. 1t was in a
sufficiency of length over the knee but no,
overdone, and it has a full roomsome hang
The collar was Of the material rounding
down in the middle of the back to an ample
three inches. and the lapel was not so low
down as the Londoners have it. 1t was a
coat for cold weather, and showed the
scarfing at just the right amount The
drawing herewith is of the genial Van
Glider, who has good clothes and knows
how and when to wear them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

differ from the familiar Scotch tweeds in
having rather smooth finish. The samples
that have reached this country -un in
browns dark blues, grays and almost steel,
but the colors are neutral in tone, and so
thoroughly blended that one gets no i'm
preston of distinct pattern. The same
goods has been sent over in solid colors.
1t comes in black and blue, coarsely woven,
and intended for sack coats or double
breasted blue coats. In these colors it can
not be recommended. The objection TO the
goods at best is its tendency to pull" as
tailors express it. coat of this goods
when very constantly worn is likely to lose
its shape within short time. The trousers
are certain to, and while the new goods is
probably the most fashionable thing men
can get for summer wear, it is not to be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The Spanish fandarellO'' is danced 10y a
Diack-haircd little beauty in tie nearest
possible approach to the genuine peasant
SSS1uIhe, JHat is, il style ana colcT. for
Snere i d marked difference a the mater
i&-s- he enormous sleeve pu.[s cnI full
waist axe OF white silk inull. lhe lower
siegEe IS SISpenteTs and wide ~ inkled
slr0le OF brilliant crimson silk while the
IdIhei scant petucOat is 4 run China silk
which would be olive green in colcr if it
tom IS q single band of cr;rr..,, r.5hr-,-,
ne long, narrow apron is Of nll:.,.rcI-col-
ored lawn. across the bottom OF y Lich is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

rhe next picture is that of a bewitching
little street minstrel whose audacious
French songs are bewilderingly mixed up
with equally audacious dances. The bodice
Is or white silk null. with large open
sleeves reaching midway between elbow
and wrist. Around the waist is knotted a
yellow silk scarf, gorgeous with glittering
embroidery. The clinging skirt is
OF brilliant scarlet silk. a red and
yellow bandeau is fastened around the
head. while the limbs and feet are incased
In red stockings and black kid slippers,
laced high with narrow black ribbons
In the carnival of flowers, a new and very
attractive feature of these fairy-like enter
tainments, some of the costumes are dainty
and sweet enough to suitably clothe an
ideal Queen Nab
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
An Obscure Calculation

| From the Chicago Inter Ocean.
"Catchon is struggling with a very heavy
problem"
| Snap-"What is it?"
Hes trying to figure out whether he's a
member of the 400"
| Snap-"Well, can't he?"
| NO he doesn't know whether it should
| be worked by addition or subtraction"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

The second illustration shows a simple
costume designed for six little ones who
are TO give version OF an oriental dance.
The toilet is developed in opalascent silk, a
beautiful material-in quality Ike China
silk-the color, to all intenJs and purposes,
being white but as the light and shadow
shifts over il. mingled with the white are
the most beautiful and delicate tones of
pale pink. blue. yellow and green, the gen
sral effect being a sort of moonlight radi-
ance which is charming in The extreme.
The open blouse waist is drawn loosely in
to a girdle of linked silver, from which
hangs a network of silver chains and balls,
over a plain, full petticoat of silk. The
open ruffies which form the sleeves are
thickly studded on the inner side with sill
yer spangles One deep lace ru.fle does
duty as underskirt and the beautiful little
outfit is finished by fesh-colored hosiery
and white kid slippers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

lonable several years ago. The best London
men are making them of medium length, not
as snort as they were several years ago,
For as long as those some of the tailors
nave tried this winter. The skirt should
be rather full, and the coat made with
three buttons. The trousers present a grace
Iul mean to an exaggerated fullness and
narrowness. All Of them are shaped to the
leg, growing narrower toward the boot.
As to Colored Shirts.
1t is often said that a mans shirt is the
real measure of his success in dressing. A
Violating shirt is elementary and about
the most important feature of a mans
dress. shirt with the upper side longer
than the lower, which causes it to roll out.
Is something impossible for well-dressed
man. After he has learned how to wear
none but well-ftting shirts, a man can af-
rord TO look at their style and color. As
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
Why Some Are Cranks and Others
Again Are Asses.
MANY SPECIES OF THE SAME GENUS
Yet With All Their Faults We
Love Them Still.
SOME MADE, OTHERS BORN
Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.

EhE COMLS OLD
Charlie" said one
lounger to another, as
they drifted along
Connecticut avenue
in the direction of
one Of the clubs, "and
of all the cranks on
earth / really believe
Charlie is the great
est"
HE has no brains,
then 2" said the other
lounger.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
I. W. B.
A Comfort.


From Texas Siftngs.
$50, Hattie has refused you? Well, I
wouldn't care. She is a thoughtless thing
and doesn't know her own mind"
That's so? Oh, well, If she doesn't know
her mind perhaps 1 ought not mind her no.S
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

a broad band. deliberately darned in bright
scarlet, green, gold and blue. Large hoop
earrings, bright silk kerchief knotted
about the head, black silk stockings and
patent leather slippers complete the toilet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
.WELL-DRESSED MEN
They Get tho Latest Ideas of the
Styles From London.
CHECKED SUITS AND SHIRTS THE THING
A Getaway Coat That is Really
Truly Smart.
A REEF TAKEN IN COATS

uERICAN G U s =
toners of English
tailors have already
received the usual
punches of cloths
which show patterns
that will be worn this
summer by the right
sort Of people over
there. These goods
are practically all
checked this year,
the New York Sun
states, and the ma
jority are dark in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
In Fact, the Hat and Gloves and the
Entire Costume.
some SMART TOILETS OF TOMORROW
The Skirts Expand and the Bonnets
Are Larger
SUGGESTIONS FOR SPRING
Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.

lie EXACT RELA-
tionship between Eas-
ter and new gowns
would be hard to
trace, but It seems to
be firmly established.
II you don't believe
IT, just remember that
tomorrow the left
over" Easter gowns
will be out In force,
then station yourself
where you can see the
attendants at church.
And il you do not see
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

Lrst Younger, why, man, he is stuffed full
Oh Drains. That is what's the matter with
him-that is why he is a crank"
thought cranks were usually half
wltted,' said the second lounger.
you are way off, then my boy" the
other rejoined ''Cranks are men who have
more than the usual amount of brains, only
they Will be peculiar and have queer no.
tlons, dinerent from ours, and that's why
they are cranks." And the lazy pair con-
tinued the discussion as they slowly mount
eo the steps OF the club and disappeared
within.
What club were they entering? You can
guess any one of four or five and you will
not De far out of the way. for the way the
ciuos are located now in Washington makes
1t possible for a man to go from one tn
another on rainy day without wetting
ms Feet. This arrangement certainly has
us advantages, for it gives a certain air
10 particular part of the city and makes
II bright and lively. But let US see what
Charue' VINO was pronounced a crank,
looked Ike He was clothed In fashionable
garments, wore silk hat, dark striped
trousers and a frock coat of moderate
length. He carried a cane, and his gloves
were carried in his hands In point Of fact.
Charlie looked rather like a swell But as
ne reached the corner where the club is
ne deliberately stopped a lady who was
passing by and asked her some question.
which made her pause He evidently knew
ner very we'll, for. as she endeavored to
answer quickly and hurry on, he persisted
In asking her another question and thus
bringing her to standstill for a few min
utes. There she stood in the full glare of
the club windows out Of which all men
are free to gaze and into which it is an
unwritten law that ne woman must look.
She left Charlie in very little WHILE and
he smiled to himself and walked on. Now,
If anybody else had executed this little
feat, had compelled lady to stand in
front OF club for even a second, 1t would
have been considered a rude thing to do,
but when Charlie did it it was received as
one of the eccentricities of a crank
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
What She Keeps.

From the Chicago Inter-Ocean.
Miss Tweed-'That Mrs. Chirp Is horridt
/ don't believe she can keep anything"
''Oh, yes. she keeps telling every thing
she hears"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

dances have been introduced during the
winter, in consequence of which some de-
iightfully unique little outfits have been
manufactured by the clever fingers of
proud mothers and accommodating big
sisters.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

From PUCK


Perry-'They are still at it in Brazil"
Berry-"It must be pretty near time for
a souvenir performance"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
Dancing Costumes for Coming May
Balls.
WORK FOR FOND MOTHERS
Becoming Fancy Costumes and
How to Make Them
FOR THE NEW DAN S
Written Exclusively for The Evening Star.

eHE LADS AND Las
sizes belonging to our
numerous d a n C ing
academies are busily
engaged in preparing
costumes and various
other Indispensable ct
ceteras for the bril-
liant May b a ! / 8 ,
which are such a
prominent feature of
Washington spring
time festivities. A
number Of new and
unusually pre- t I y
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

AS usual we shall wear this summer
what are known as sack" and "cutaway''
coats. The coats in the former shape will
be somewhat longer than they were, but
not extreme. London tailors show a ten.
dency to shape these coats to the figure
more than they have done of late but not
in the exaggerated way which was fash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31
Checks All the Go.

Practically all the cloths this summer will
be checked, even goods in which any pat
tern is difficult to trace show after inspec-
ton small check outlined by thread of
red or blue or some color which tones with
the prevailing shades in the pattern. Even
the cloths from which the trade will make
what are known as "trouserings' show the
same invarable tendency to checks. Some
times there is a thin stripe of color but it
is never pronounced en- ough 10 change the
general effect, which is always that of an
underlined check
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-03-31

recommended to anybody who proposes to
buy only one suit. The black cannot be
recommended for the same reason, for the
effect of the new weave is lost in the solid
color. and the new style of texture is hardly
noticeable. The blue is especially adapted,
however. to double-breasted coats, as II
gives the needed roughness to such a gar
ment.
St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1894-04-25
CORRUPT POLICE.
AZ Number OF Hlackmailers Dis.
missed From the Frisco Force.

Al Number OF HIackmailers Dis.
missed From the Frisco Force.
SAN FRANCISCO, April PA sensa-
ton has been brewing in police circles
here for several weeks it havings been
known that the board of police cominis-
sipners had under quiet investigation a
large number of acknowledgment of
corrupt methods. An Intimation of
what might he looked for was given
week ago. when Capt. William E. Hall,
who acted as Chief Crowley's confiden-
tial clerk, and five patrolmen were sud-
denly dismissed from the department.
The climax came last night when the
pnl!ce commissioners dismissed. with
out trial'lhree 1sergsaats, Two veteran
detectives and nine patrolmei. 1t is
stated that still Others are to follow. 1t
Is charged that the dsgraced policemen
have long been operating under Capt.
Hall and other officers high in the
department i'll levying systematic black
mail upon gamblers and others WHO
have been allowed to violate the law,
The men dismissed last night are nearly
all from the Chinatown district, where
lottery and fantan gambling mas long
houtISheu under corrupt police prOtec-
ton.