The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1894-06-29
ARTICHOKE IDYL.
AN UNFAMILIAR VEGETABLE OVER
WHICH EPicuRES RAVE.

&sW " -
WHICH EPlcuREs RAVE.
The sJerusalem" Kind In Not the True Ar-
tacie and Is Used 70 Fatten Cattas-REoush
watering Recipes Used ~ French and
Creole CheTs.
Just SO years after Columbus disbOv-
ered America d ~gastronomio genius iM
the south Of France discovered the aetf.
choke as d delicious dish OF saiAdic
character. II was indeed j rather re
markAble find OF, guess, for the plant
bears q strong resemblance TO the thiss
tie, and mp to that date any man who
ate ii ran the risk Of being classed with
that animal which enjoys thistles and
knows how 10 bray.
The portion of the artichoke generally
eaten Ii the underside OF the head be-
fore the flower unfolds itself, or WHIST in
Kitchen parlance Ii called the artichcke
bottom. But the lower part OF the leaves
| that Join this base and contain about o
fifth of a t~easpoonful Of edible and cas-
lily digestible substance is equally priced
by the wise. A common way OF eating
these bottoms after the head il removed
from the plant and the body has been
well boiled, like o cabbage, il 20 pull
OF the leaves and then eat the remain
der soused in salt and butter.
But the French and the creoles OF
New Orleans, where the artichoke il
regarded with a kind of sentimental or
affsctionate appetite, frequently gather
the heads when the bottom is NO larger
| than a silver dollar and eat the lower
end of the leaves raw, dipping them
| daintily in o sauce made OF oil, red pep
per and red wine vinegar or occasional
" in a queer sauce of butter and spice.
Another way the French and their
kindred here have of e~mbalming the
artichoke in the memory of particular
stomachs is to bake the dried heads, Tor
which purpose the second crop or rowen
of artichokes is preferred, in q meat pie
with mushrooms. This dish has not yet
made its appearance In New York res
taurants.
Neither has the artichoke patty, IN
invention of the famous Partisan Chef,
Trisconi, now living in rich retirement
ON his estate near New Orleans and
cooking only occasionally ON state occa-
sions or for gourmets whose praise de-
lights his poet nature. At o dinner given
in 1884 by the New Orleans exposition
management to some editorial visitorA
Trisconi presented some of these famous
patties, and one editor, whose name is
o household word, remarked that such
o dish could teach q man the art TO choke
himself to death without grieving, to
which another replied that the art to
joke in that way was an editorial func-
ton more honored in the breach than In
the observance, and In an awesome hush
the guests went ON solacing their souls
with patties.
The composition of these culinary
wonders il q profound secret, which will
probably die with its Columbus but
there are many other ways-about 20 IN
all-of cooking the artichoke, and some
of these methods carry elaborati1A tc
excess. Let q brief description OF ONE
way suffice.
You take about six or eight plants OF
medium size, remove the cOarsest leaves,
trim them of straight o. top cutoui
the cores or chokes, wash and drain care.
fully. Then fry the tips In oil. andsfol
|, dressing chop up very fine half o pound
of fresh pork fat, with the same ameuni
of butter. Add 8 minced shallots, large
spoonful of chopped parsley. salt, pep
per, nutmeg, q pound of minced mushr
rooms and gill of madeira. After thor
} ough mixing divide into as many por
tions as you have artichoke shells and
fill the hollow planta ,
H. Cover these with bands OF thick pOf1
and tic around with strong string 10
these imprisoned @artichokes now int6y
, large saucepan, with more pork ehoppet
carrots, onions, parsley etc. Moistez
with medium stock and white winesant
Let boil Sfa
Then skin and cook in an oven for n
! hour. Drain OF the stock and r6ducei
; with espagnole TO o semiglazed state
sprinkling in Just q suspicion OF lennon
Juice now and then. Free the articoke
: from their cord and bands and sery'
, them, thinly covered, not drowned, n
!, their accompanying sauce The name q
the dish is artichants entiere q Ia bari
goule and is equal to a dinner of severa
courses.
! BY some persons this dainty vegetable
has been confused with the 90 calie'
Jerusalem artichoke, which Is also eat
. en-, though chiefly by cattle. The Jeru
Q salem artichoke ID not a true species q
all, but of a kind of wild sunfiowe
thence it's Italian name girasole, turn
ing to SUM-, with q tuberose root thu
resembles apotato and tastes very like
o delicate turnip when well cookedf
!. This plant Il called In some localitie
the Canada potato, in others the Viz
4 ginian. II was introduced into Englan,
In 1920, and It's tops, when cured, wer
q found to be good hay, five or six tons I
|. the acre, and its tuber was fed to cattle
d II 81 not quite as nourishing as the pc
4 tato, having 4 per cent more water bu
q it is very fair eating in spite OF the pre-.
udice against il. Once In q soil, il
/. extremely difficult TO extirpate, and
haa n curious uift Of resisting cold. hay