The morning call., 1894-02-10
FOR THE TABLE.

The days OF feasting and good cheer have
passed, and following closely upon their foot
steps-Seemlugly more closely with each wear
come the days OF fasting and modification of
the carnal appetite
Al thls time recipes for few Lenten dishes
may not be amiss Fish they must be, of
course, and vegetables; and the demand for
nsh IS SO great that a selection should be made
IN Inc morning, as after that time the chances
are against ones finding more than a few seat
tereo shrlmps, one or TWO dimnutlve crawfish
and lew carp and salmon displayed on the
counters.
While there Is nothing nicer than a fresh hsh.
earth contains few things worse than poor
specimen OF the finny tribe. Happily The line
between The two is so sharply drawn, even -
The eyes, that. with ordinary care, there Is
small chance OF being deceived in making a
purchase. If the fish be plump and finn, win
cleaning scales and glarng eye. there Is no
doubt of lis freshness; but should the scales
be wrinkled, the flesh shrunken ana lne ewes
have an appearance OF deep and settled aeJec-
ton, IL would be best 10 let II go It's way III
peace.
Only within the last few years have the
merits of young sturgeon been champloheu.
Before that time II was parlah among hsh'
condemned by It's own cheapnesS. Or late,
however il has Increased in favor. and, indeed,
il has much to commend it, young sturgeon,
weighing seven or eight pounds, making de-
Icious fllets. Ii motives OF economy are 10 be
considered ii is best 10 limit the operations of
the fisb-dealer TO cutting and weighing the
piece desired-a section six or Seveninches long
exclusive of head or tail. This should be
skinned aud cut Into inch-Wide strlps-not
round the fish, but across The grain, from head
to tail-wbIch may be wiped with soft cloth,
but not washed. all that being done before the
skin was removed. The skin, bones and refuse
pieces can be put into saucepan and covered
with hot waller, lightly sailed and well pep
pered. aud if the head or tail has been left on
that may be added, Also and the whole set on
the stove TO simmer slowly.
The hlets are TO be laid in pan mostened
Win melted butter and seasoned with pepper
and salt. They should bake fifteen minutes
and be served arranged in Il circle overlappinp
each other, with The overlapping ends sprinkled
with a pinch of finely chopped parsley and 20
all should be added the butter left in The pan
with few drops Of lemon juice added This
dish TO he al lis best must be eaten very hot
and accompanied by potatoes boiled I'LL they
are dry and meaiy.
When the pieces OF fish which were boiling
are thoroughly cooked all pieces of bone ana
Skefh must be carefully removed, leaving in the
liquor ali the good bits of fish, and TO them may
be added d pint Of raw potatoes cut IN cubes.
some salt pork cuI fine and fried with a slic, d
onion, and few crackers. This makes very
acceptable chOwder, and can be set away till
needed, when it should be warmed ana I'M
proved by the addition of pint of milk thick
ened by boiling in it for five minutes lumpDf
butter rolled in -four.
In days gone by housekeepers considered
crabs dish to be INDUCED in when funds were
low, as they could be had for cents each. how.
however, The regular price ter those taken in
deep water is % cents EACH The rise is proDa-
bly, mol due 10 any eXcuslveness on the part Of
the crabs themselves, but 10 a ring which has
been formed about them by tile festive Usher
men. II Is quite s fe hing TO buy The crabs
already boiled, as their mode of execution is Il
painful one and the majority of cooks shrink
from nflicting il. The crab. if fresh, Will have
firm shell. we'll filed OUT ana an expression
OF determination IN its folded claws If the
shell bends easily and the claws relax feebly
the crab has either been cooked the day before
or gave up the struggle for life before it fell
victim TO the boiling pot. To make crab
cToquettes the white meat, The TAT which adj
heres 10 the shrll, and the liquor given out in
opening are all 10 be used The meat is
shredded and 10 it is added an equal quantity
OF very thick cream sauce, made by melting
two tableSpOonfus Of butter adding 10 it, stir
Ing all The time, The same quantity of -four a
grazing of onion, salt, cayenne pepper, some
drops of lime juice. chopped parsley and half Il
pint of hot cream. When this is cold il is to be
made into rolls, dipped in beaten egg, then i'll
crumbs and fIied i'll boiling lard. Served with
iona sauce.