Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1894-10-10
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

RIM. FUTILE.
Cisco, Texas.
NEW YORK FASHIONS
Silken Fabrics-Fancy Weaves and Colors-
Silk and Wool Goods-Styles in Max
ing-Answers and Notes,
[By our New York Female Fashion Reporter.I
Satin remains very fashionable and
pedu de sole as well, the latter indeed,
being really but variety of the former.
Both have a leading position among
plain silken fabrics and form the chosen
ground work when figures appear.
Repped silks however, are seen in new
weaves and also in revivals of old ones
that at present become novel, especial
ly when given the new name of GroS
de Tours. Taffeta re-appears both in
plain colors and as ground work for
fancy figures, particularly the last
named and a new MORE silk is woven
in an immense weave that covers the
entire breadth.
Where
FANCY WEAVES
are seen, armure or granite designs are
stylish and in fancy patterns, there is
q marked tendency towards small
sprays, dots or other figures on black
or dark surfaces, chiefly black, while
black on colors retains all its former
popularity. Stripes give change from
small designs set at regular intervals
sometimes small flowers form stripes or
alternate with plain lines or a change
in weave may constitute the coveted
effect, notably where MORE weave is
seen alternating with gros grain or sat
in. Chine figures have been found too
lovely for abandonment and will con
tribute an important quota in dressy
fabrics. Bluet is prominent in new
colorings, both among silks and woods
and shows forth pre- eminently on
black, colors on black in truth, taking
the lead.
CREPON DESIGNS,
whether real or simulated, oftener the
last style, are seen in silk and wool mix
lures and a revival of Irish poplin is
predicted, because SO we'll adapted to
the stiff flare around the foot of dress
skirts. Perhaps it is for this reason
that independent waists of thin mate
rial that may be readily draped, are so
noticeable among new costumes, since
really at present, the distinction that
is made in styles for cOrsage and skirt,
calls for distinct classes of goods. Skirts
seen at Lord and Taylor's, are most fire.
quently severe in their simplicity, hav-
ing very little, if any trimming and
stylish because of a perfect hang, while
corsages are made with all possible
abandon and draped SO as to produce
remarkable variety. In skirts, much
Importance is attached to folds at the
back, of which the most fashionable
I,r &c
arately as cores, being made stiff by
hair cloth Innings, while on either side,
the side breadths are folded so as to
form outer ones and rubber bands be-
low, are still used to keep them in right
position. Equally important is the
flare at the foot. but the matter of
trimming is of so little consideration as
often to be quite omitted. This fact
brings out
AS NEVER BEFORE,
the finish on the lower edge and the
finest costumes for both indoor and
street wear, are protested by s. n. and
M. first quality bias velveteen skirt
bindings, the newest improvement in
this leading make, being the Duxbak
rainproof, which is absolutely water
proof. The best dressmakers say that
by it's use, the hitherto customary wet
ting of shoe tops and ankles, is in great
measure obviated. Its durability is
unquestioned, because made of best
double warp goods in perfectly fast col
ors. AS never before likewise, is there
an extreme contrast between skirts and
corsages, since the employment of very
light fabrics for the latter, such as
gauze, lace, net, silk null or chiffon, is
carried to an extraordinary extent,
while their appearance as cOmbina-
ton with heavy material, is quite with
out precedent. Perhaps the growing
popularity of slashed corsages. has
much to do with this unwonted fact
and doubtless the lavish use of light
material in ruff1es about the neck and
shoulders, has induced it's contrast as
drapery. Sleeves are larger than ever
and some new gowns show sleeves that
match the skirt and are wholly differ
ent from the corsage of light fabric in
which they are inserted. AS a disad-
vantage however, comes in the consid-
GRAFTON that such waists can be worn
only with the skirt they are made to
suit. Something of a run is anticipated
on velvet waists to be worn with skirts
of light quality goods. This is revival
of old ideas and is replete with many
charming possibilities.
miss Y" The continuance of capes
for street wear, is a foregone conclu-
sion, SO long as large sleeves remain
fashionable and for the coming season,
sleeves are even more ample than for
merly. Such handsome, new colorings
have been introduced, that Golf capes
of cloth dyed in them, will be in vogue
for general wear and will afford much
more protection than the little cOllets
and short capes i'll velvet that will give
some warmth during Fall. Coats both
long and short, will be very stylish in
cloth of new colors, particularly bluet
or new bronze green. Favorite trim
mings are soutache or GALLON, but fur
may be expected to appear later on,
and where collars are used on cloth
capes, they are preferably of velvet.
Ellen" Jet will be much used as a
dress trimming and Vandyke points
come ready for both skirts and corsages
Jet yokes, epaulets, bands, ETC., will re-
place the heavy mesh lace of the sum
mer, for those who can afford the in
creased expense or as change from
lace which has not had it's day.
Crushed velvet, either in the piece or
as ribbon, is most effective in millinery
and is really reproduction of miroir
velvet which has been so successful
Velvet is the chosen exponent for dis
play of the series of new and handsome
colors, from which SO much is expected
in winter dress. There are splendid
ruby shades, rich yellow, blues, laven
ders and bluet hues.
ROsALIND MAY.