The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-07-08

luck nlIleQ across my line OIL NlSlOE tiiS
other day. in exit from her piazza on to
the beach for an afternoon promenade
and furnished me a text for these re-
marks.
I observed first the completeness at
all points of the present dress. Every
item has it's study and even its special
designers. so that nothing is too small
to be neglected. See, for instance how,
when the countess lifts her skirts of
water green crepon there is seen del
icate and harmonious reverse of pink
bordered protectingly with balaye-
use Of green silk. It IS a delicious sur
prise 10 find this accidental show of lin
ing adding a new beauty to the out
side If the countess were wearing a
black silk I presume that the lining
would be mauve. In this same way
on every detail of dress the eye is made
10 rest with interest and pleasure and
the certainty of not being disappoint-
ed
1t is a completeness that indicates a
deep study of art.
DRESSY PETTICOATS
I note that the petticoat under this
green crepon is of pink organdi with
ruffles edged with valenciennes. A petit
coat of green would have been equally
suitable, and no doubt such a one
hangs in the ladys closet. 1t is justly
that these lawn peticoats have found
favor for one may have several Of
them at the cost OF single silk one,
If they are made at home, and SO Sc
cure the variety, which is such a
charm in summer dress.
The following description of a silk
petticOat from the house of Morrin-
Biossier viii be useful t. home dress
makers. II is of a black and white
checkered t3ffeta and it lined through
out with thin pink silk, the top finished
off with a cord and the bottom henlm-
ed under. y nine inch ruiIie pinked in
deep points is SeWed on with a two
inch band of velvet ribbon. above
which IS narrow standing ruffle pink
ed like the bottom. Velvet ribbon is
run through button-holed openings
half way down round the back ana tied
with ends.
NEW BELTS.
If the belt is inconspicuous this sea-
son it is no less carefully thought our
The idea is to have it identified in color
with the bodice or bodice trimming
rather than with the skirt, so that the
waist shall appear TO begin az its lower.
ice of the countess gown is of white
plated mOuSSelne de sole. and it is
confined and finished round the waist
by white guipure with deep points run
ming upward, which lace answers for
the belt. This bodice has also the
same lace put across the bust with
points downward, leaving the chiffon to
push through in loZenge shaped bout
fants.
The belts of suede leather worn with
flannel outing gowns are often 10
wider than a harness rein. and have a
dead gold buckle d. corresponding sim
plicity. They are of yellow or white
and are very elegant. \ bag of the
same leather is attached TO the belt by
q gilt chain for travelling.
The neck band, once plain. is now an
elaborate composition and is different
" designed for each dress. The style
with the material drawn round in
folds. with bow or rosette or flounces
behind, is still the favorite, the back
ornament growing larger every day.
Then there is the plain front breaking
into loops as il passes round the sides,
70 become a full rouche behind; and
the lace band laid over color with per
haps 2 narrow jet galoon running
round lower edge or a plnked taffeeIa
ruche round its top, or both; and the
band with rosettes on each side and
behind, like a planet at different sta
tons of its orbit etc. The countess
throat is swathed in green velvet.
GLOVES AND SHOES.
The length Of gloves has changed
with the change in sieve lengths.
There has been nothing more stylish for
some years past than a mousquetaire
to reach half way TO the Show. but at
present the sleeve is either so long on
the hand that a mOusGuetaire cannot
he worn at all. and a short, buttoned
glove is chosen. or else it is so short
that the glove must reach over the ell
bow. In consequence, half long gloves
have fallen out of demand.
y Observing the green sleeve Of this
white-chiffon- bodice, it WILDE seen
that though its soft puff reaches over
the elbow, yet it is not so long that a
movement may not carry it above, and
it is therefore above that the glove
should go. The division between
sleeve and glove half way down the
forearm is now little old-fashioned
and though this might seem an uniIn-
portant detail, it is precisely in atten-
ton to such details that lies the diff
ference between a toilette prosy OF
chick.
SMART SHOES.
The low shoe the countess sets daint-
lily down in the sand, has enough stud
led grace in its lines to furnish illus
tration TO a discourse on art; it suffices
admirably for a remark or two or
shoes
There is a vast difference in the way
a low shoe is cut. It should be cut
rather low, so that the foot is not com
pleteiy covered, and the curve between
ankle and instep is left little clear
for if the top of the shoe is permitted
10 close in round the ankle a SHARP
angle is produced where the curve
should be, and the foot has an ugly
cut off look. Properly cut. the shoe
has n ore Of a sandle effect, and the
ankle looks small by contrast.
The heel is low and the toe should
be not too pointed, for a very pointed
toe necessitates extra length and after
a little stretching above gets to have
broad the prettiest shoe is in curved
lines rather than in thin, long and ner
Vous ones.
Light colored shoes that looked so ODD
when first introduced have now be
come orthodox and conservative, anC
are worn without remark even in tht
city street. They are of dressed calf
morocco or undressed kid, in all tone:
of yellow, reddish brown and white
The most approved shade is a reddish
yellow.
Wells AND HATS.
White wells have almost entirely dis
placed black ones, and as lace edge!
have been initiated in cheap materials
the proper wear is white tulle. L
hides all the shadows behind it anC
gives the effect of ravishing complex
ion.
This is the season of rough strawl
and robustly colored ones, and mos