The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1894-03-15


silky fabrics Of llama hair and angora goats.
Besides all these we have fabrics made Of
woven down from elder ducks and swans
breasts.
We see silks from all sorts of lands each
bearing some distinguishing mark. There
are silks from India, from Italy, Turkey,
Greece, Arabia. France, England, China and
Japan, with possibly a few other countries
not mentioned We have cottons from
France and England, ginghams from Scot
land and also from that land of cakes and
porridge the unapproachable cheviots and
heather mixtures Verify no one but
Scotchman could have woven such a fabric
with all the purplish bloom mingled with
the dust and dry twigs, the blue of the sky
and the green of the almost hidden foliage.
The heather mixture will always be a
fabric that will belong to that one country,
not to be initiated elsewhere.
There are also Irish goods in the windows
-frieze for storm coats, linens fine beyond
compare and Irish poplins. These last are
richer than any all silk goods, handsomer
than bengaline and only surpassed by the
best Lyons velvet. These poplins have
never been made outside of Ireland, and
they always remain in style, like the Irish
point laces and their linens These poplins
are to be made plain, with the exception Of
a little velvet as finish, and point lace
where it can be obtained.
There are grass linens this season from
South America, from the Azores and from
Panama and Mexico. There are ginghams
from Madras and shawl patterns in the
piece for trimmings from Persia, and there
are queer embroideries from Dalmatia and
Bulgaria. These are to be sewed on the new
hOpsacking cloths. These new hopsackings
come in a check no larger than the one flat
thread. There will be one gray thread and
one blue, lengthwise, and the same arrange
meut across the cloth, and this forms what
would be called pnhead checks in any 9TH
er material, but in this, each thread being
wide and fiat, forms one check, while the
Others take five or six threads for each
square. These hOpsackings are in green and
drab, red and gray, blue and gold or gray,
and so on through all the seasons colors.
They are very handsome goods. Some are
as heretofore, all in one solid color in neu-
tral tints, and get their distinction from
the way they are trimmed.
The very handsomest of these have seen
made up so far was one in hemp color, with
a plain five gored skirt. Around the bot
tom was festooned founce of hempen
guipure headed by silken rope of hemp,
with a cherry twist. There was a looped
belt made of this cord, with two short ends,
with tasses of the same. The waist was
plain and round, with bertha of the gui-
pure headed also by the cord. 1t was styl-
ish and elegant.
Generally, anything new that is superla-
lively ugly is called 80 stylish" and &C
cepted on sufferance, but hopsacking is
certainly handsome dress material when
properly handled. Besides this, it is light
and does not drag, as do too many wooden
goods
| think from what | see and am told the
old Persian palm leaf and Paisley patterns
are sure of a revival in dress goods, particu-
larry printed silks, sateens and challis, be
sides cashmeres. Even few patterns of
broadcloth have borderings in Paisley pat
tern, brocaded along the bottom. One pat
tern has mixed ground mostly browns
on dark green, with a swivel pattern In
gold colored silk, in the old palm leaf de.
sign. There were two borders, one 10 inches
deep for the bottom and one inches for
the corsage and sleeve trimming. There
was white peau de laine broadcloth, and
the borders to this were done in black and
gold. 1t was very beautiful. Another one