The Washington times., 1894-04-29
WHAT OLIVE HARPER Says
Or HOME DREssMAKIne

The lady who wishes 70 become thorough
dressmaker must have the proper tools and
necessaries to begin with, besides q large
amount of patience and taste. The tools
needed are here briefly mentioned:
A cutting board or folding table.
A tape measure.
Three pairs of scissors. one for buttonholes
pincushion for genersa uso and one to
fasten to the side.
needlebook.
Thread and sewing silk as much as one
likes.
press board for ordinary waist and skirt.
sleeve board for pressing sleeves.
A heavy hatiron and one light one.
One or more wire frames for drapinR
skirts.
A tin body for adjusting waists. trimmings,
ETC., on.
A bundle cap wire for collars and stiff
bows.
Elastic. braid, bindings, whalebones, cas-
ings, crinoline. buckram, and dress Innings
such as silesia. paper cambric, and drilling
and taffetas, silk. and briiiantine or alpaca
for facings. Aside from these there should
also be bcbbin cord for pipings and stiff
muslin, black and white, for collars, etc.,
pencil and book for writing down measure
ments, also sewing machine and some stiff
The first thing to be done in the making Of
dress is to cut and fit the waist. 1t is SIM
pie matter, but requires order enough
to allow the dressmaker to keep track OF all
her belongings. When ready to begin work
let the young dressmaker take large piece
OF stiff cartridge paper and start from the
right straight edge with her measurement.
The person to be fitted stands with her hands
on her hips. and the tapeline is passed around
the body close under the arms and over the
bust and brought to the back and the figures
taken. The length of the back is taken, the
front from the top OF the shoulder to the waist
line and to the throat. Then under the arms
and finally around tnc waist.
When the measurements are set down, the
dressmaker takes her pencil and rule and
marks the first line four inches from the edge
Of the paper and brings it down in slanting
line to one-hah inch of the edge from the
waist line. She then divides the bust line In
three, giving one-third its length to the back
and two-thirds to the front and side front,
making dots where the measure comes. The
front, from throat to waist line. is then meas
ured and the neck shaped out from the high
line to the low one, which gives it about the
right form, which can lie cut out more If
needed when tried on.
The basque shape is the foundation of all
dressmaking, bur as just now the waists are
unusually short it can be cut OH at the waist
line or little below it.
The darts form very important part In the
appearance OF gowns, but there is no set rule
that can apply to them. TIE waist Is cut In
the proportion marked, and If the bust is
slender the darts should not be taken Deep
II full or very full they can be made deeper,
according to the need, and the front may be
slanted, If so desired so es TO throw added
fullness where j. is required. Nor can the
length Of the darts be decided until the figure
Of the lady is seen. Some need high seams,
some low ones, but the average is about five
inches above the waist line, tapering to a
point, and about one inch cut away in the
center. This can only be determined In try
ing ON.
When all the pieces belonging to a waist
eight in all, though they are cut in pairs which
are exactly alike-haye been outlined with
dots according to the measures they can be
marked oct with pencil and then cut. The
lining should be then laid fat and the car
fridge paper diagram laid over /. and the
pattern marked on the lining which must be
cut on the straight. Cut, allowing one
full inch all around except in front for the
seams. In front allow two inches for turn
ing in.
When the waist is cut out, baste the lining
together, beginning all seams at the top, and
then try it on, with the seams on the outside.
Pin the fronts together, leaving the edges to
stand outward, and then get the size right
around the waist. and after that pin the darts
and seams to conform absolutely with the
figure. Do not try to mold the figure to the
dress.
When sure that the waist is, so to call 1t,
nodded to the body, press back the front
edges so that the pin holes will strain little,
see that the arm sizes and neck are comfort
able, and that it does not bind anywhere or
wrinkle, and then slip of the waist and pull
the seams very little, enough to show Just
where the seams should be. now that the lin
ing is fitted. As soon as this is done rip apart
the lining and cut away all superiuous edges,
though If the measurements are carefully
taken there should be scarcely anything to
cut away. The lining is then ready to be
basted to the material