The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-12-23
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how near We we're 10 the end I suddenly heard
TsuRwalder shout, The topi"
yes. monsieur. the topl' called out Craven
behind me.
J took three steps-another step would have
sent ms whirlIne 5000 feet down into Italyi
THE sUMNIT AND A LOOK ABOUT.
Although the summit OF tie Motterhorn grad
uaily changes in shape, partly through disin-
teprution Of tho schistose rock, but mainly in
corsequenoco Of variations in the amount of snow
resting upon II, IL has always been described by
those who have seen II since Mr.. whymper's
first visit as a narrow ledge between 200 and
400 feet in length and in some places not wide
enough TO stand upon. That was also its ap-
pearance as I saw IL. At the highest point a
comb OF rock projected through the snow. and
| knocked of II piece and put It in my pocket.
The view ranged over the whole OF Switzer-
land except, Of course. that some OF the sur
rounding mountains hid one another as well as
the valleys between them) and over northern
Italy as far As the Apennines. The snowy dome
of Mont Blanc rose high above all the peaks in
the west. The nearer Alps. Monte Rosa, the
Dent Blanche, the Gnbelhorn. the Breithorn,
the Rothhorn. the Rimpfschhorn, cleaned In
the sunshine, and great glaciers we're spread out
like floors on the east, the north, and the west.
Zermatt was visible far, far below on the Swiss
side, but Breuil, at the Italian foot, was under a
cloud. Most OF the plain OF Lombardy was also
buried in mist, and a very remarkable spectacle
was produced by the pouring Of white clouds
from Italy over the mountain wall Joining the
bas Of the Matterhorn with the Theodulhorn.
Thousands Of feet beneath us these billowy
clouds rose from the Val Tournanche, sur
mounted the lofty wall, and then tumbled in a
cataract down into Switzerland. Swirling and
tossing they swept a short distance across the
FurgRen and Theodul glaciers and then, In mid
air, vanished. There was no cessation In the adj
vance from the Italian side, no thinning out OF
the clouds behind. yet beyond a certain line
they could not go. could not even exist, but on
reaching 1t melted instantly into nothingness.
THE DESCENT.
A wind that would hardly have been noticed
below proved disaRreeable here, and we re-
manned but a short time on the summit. Even
the most experienced guide cannot enter lightly
upod a descent from the Matterhorn, and for a
beginner the mere idea o. going Town some of
the places we had come up was a thing to be
banished from the mind us quickly as possible.
1t was to be done. but 1t was not to be thought
upon In advance of the doing. The cheerful
ness of the situation was not enhanced for me
by the fact that during the latter half Of the
climb l had been suffering from mountain
sickness" brought on by the combined effects
Of strong tea, rare air, and exhausting muscular
labor. II Is as hard an I'll to bear rs seasickness.
but luckily 1t does not affect the head-at least
IT did not in my case. II IL had done so
l should have been unable to proceed,
for on the Matterhorn vertigo is en-
tirely ~inadmissible. II you cannot stand
unmoved with your toes over the margin OF q
precipicc, you have no business there. | wonder
what would be the fate OF a person who should
become helplessly i'll on the top of that noun
tain. There is no shelter and no means of shell
ter on the snowy and windy ridge. and one who
had not command of all his faculties could by
no possibility descend from 1t. Some years ago
a guide, seized with sickness at the hut on the
Italian side. nearly 1000 feet below the summit,
was left alone by his comrades while they went
down after help. When the rescuers arrived
the mar was dead. A subsequent writer de-
to death by the mere act Of leaving him there.
But, in any case he could hardly have been
taken down alive, although he was below all the
most difficult places.
Carefully treading once more the snow-topped
ridg we began the descent. Its worst feature
Immediately became manifest; the eyes could
no longer avoid the vacuity that gaped beneath
us. Taugwalder, in virtue of his greater expert
ence. now assumed the last place. where he
EOulu ltuu inc most elective hlu II n SIP &C.
Cured | remained in the middle and Craven
led. Constant vigilance was the price OF life.
Theoretically, and l believe practically as we'll.
the rope by which one is fastened to his guides
is an assurance Of comparative safety for all
three; yet there were many points where | could
not help wondering whether IL | should slip
Taugwalder. man of iron though he was, would
not come tumbling after me. and where | was
morally certain that II one of the others fell l
should go along with him into the depths.
Fortunately there was no test case: | did not
make a misstep or a slip at any critical point. In
the most dangerous places only one person
moved at a time. The leading guide went on
until he could get a good grip ON the rocks, or
n safe hold with his ice-axe. Then | followed and
took his place, while he pushed on to another
holding, and then the last man Joined me. and
It became my turn to move again.
FEELING WITH THE TOES FOR INVISIBLE lie pGEs
1t was with a peculiar sensation that one APP.
preached the verge of aprecipice and. turning on
his face, began to let himself down back ward,
feeling with his toes for lodges that he could not
see, and that might not exceed u fraction OF an
inch in width, but 10 which he must intrust as
much Of his weight as his fingers. clutching
similar projections above, were unable to sup
port, while, with one leg dangling, he reached
down for another precarious foothold. And
whenever he glanced between his body and the
rock to see what his feet were about he caught a
thrilling glimpse Of p~recipice below precipice
and crag under craG, whose plaything he would
become II his head dizZied, his eyes swan, or
his muscles refused instantly TO perform their
whole duty. Such are some of the joys OF the
Waterfront! | do not say IL mOckingly; | am
giving a record of psychological impressions.
and these things, like any mastering OF human
are a Joy in recollection. Burke
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