The record-union., 1894-04-28


Drinks.
The old-time barkeeper is now but
reminiscence. Those of the last genera
ton will remember him as unique and
important individual who went out with
the festive blue coat and its brass but
tons. The cash register is his ombstone.
He was an airy and patronizing gentle
man, whose good will was sought by am
bilious persons, and whose frown was
certain social ostracism. de wore the
finest patent-leather boots. No gentle
man of that day wore shoes. His trousers
were always in the extreme OF fashion,
whether that fashion was very tight IN
the thigh and very flowing at the bottom,
or very much ballooned in the leg and
very closely drawn over the polished in
step.
His waistcoat was watered satin or cut
velvet, very low in the front and usually
worn wide open in order to better display
the fancy shirt. This latter article was
his hearts pride and the marvel OF the
rest of the world. 1t was ordinarily OF
the finest fluted or ruf1led linen, though in
some instances it ran to lowered or
striped Marseilles bOsoms as stiff as
shingle. In the exact middle of this SUI
perb creation was almost invariably set
straddlebug diamond pin, or its eXag-
gerated imitation. During business hours
he wore neither collar nor coat. In sum-
mer even the vest was laid aside, and the
big fancy cuffs, cleaning with gold and
precious stones, were caught up with
band or elastic, while the trousers were
Of
tened with pomatum or BEARS grease,
and gave out an odor loud enough to kill
chickens. If he wore mustache 1t was
of course black, without reference to the
color of his hair.
There was a sort of wire edge on the
face of the old time barkeeper-s
thing that marked him as a man who
had cut his eyeteeth earlier than other
men, and was wearing out his second set
before other people had begun to get used
to their tirst-that indicated his calling
without regard to his eccentricity of at
tire: He mad a way OF looking you
straight in the eyes and through and
through as he spoke 10 you. as II he were
sizing you up once and for all. There
wasn't anything stolid or wooden headed
about him, as is seen behind many bars
to-day-nothing of the automaton or
dummy in apron.
HE WAS A LIVE MAN.
No, sir; the old-time barkeeper was a
live man-very much alive. de was
trusted man also. Being trusted, of ne
cesSity he was man OF some character.
He had his vagarieS-one being that bit
ters is a beverage-a vagary, by the way,
largely entertained by his successors, to
the ruination OF the digestive organs; but
he was a man with certain following.
He butt up trade, kept trade, took trade
with him when he took a new job.
His experience was worth mOney-at
least to him. IT it so happened, as it not
inirequently did happen, that at the end
of a term of service his employer had the
experience and he had the place it was
btll natural and survival of the tittest.
Ii things did not turn out thus satisfac-
lorily he had the privilege of going into
new field. and saying to a new boss quite
trtithlully aud frankly: 81 want S25
weel. and ten per cent. Of the gross re-
ceipls.'
scream the proprietor. For it must be
admitted that this was not the universal
custom.
sWeil, look here, old man. You know
l'Vc got good trade and | can bring it
here. / could take the ten cents on the
dollar out OF the drawer, anyhow, butl'd
rather DO The square thing by you and Pll
do it 10. that price,"
that the new man was already provided
with diamond pin and wore sparkler
on his little finger, and consequently
wouldn't have to make those articles out
of his new job, would conclude the bar
gain. AS soon as the barkeeper got to
work the politicians of the ward came
around to cultivate him, and the old
buns came around to size him up. To
get the custom of the former without
soaring away the opposition, and to get
correct register of the dead beats of the
vieinage-these taxed the sharpest facul-
ties OF the man who was his own Judge
and jury.
THE OLD STEAMBOAT BARKEEPER.
The old-time barkeeper on the Missis-
sippi River boat was one of the very
keenest of his Kind. Next to the Captain
and pilot he was the cock Of the walk.
He was usually man of considerable
dignity, of suave and winning manner
to gentlemen of means and an ice-cold
terror to those of slender purse and at
tenuated responsibility. To the exquisite
gentlemen in blue cutaways and brass
buttons who conducted a quiet little
game in the Texas during the run from
st. Louis TO Cairo, or from Cairo to New
Orleans, he was sympathetic friend.
His great forte was Disgusting bad
whisky in various fascinating forms.
such as julips, cobblers, punches,
SmaSheS, etc.
Plain whisky was, in those days, afloat
or ashore, coarse and vulgar drink, in
dulged in only by eccentric people and
hopeless buns. Everybo wanted ali
sorts OF LIQUID stuff in all sorts of dress
ing, and the result was that the old-time
barkeeper Was good mixer. There are
a few struggling specimens of him yet
about the city OF New Orleans and other
Southern places, but he is passing away.
The mixed drink is rapidly following
hin.
THE AGE OF MINED DRINKS.
But the old-time barkeeper used to be
seen in his glory at the mlXed-drink bar.
which iiourished a quarter OF a century
age. The Inixed-drink bar was bar
especially devoted 10 mixed drinks. and
in big place like Chicago it was notonly
The most popular section Of the barroom,
but was presided over by artists III the
mixing line.
"Wiliiam of the Bridge" was the last of
the kind in New York, and through that
fact gained great fame. In tact, so long
had William survived the old-tllne bar
keeper that he became here something OF
q curiosity to the newer generation The
nixed-drink bar has gone out IN New
i ork as we'll as Chicago and other cities
OF the Union. The only place where II
can now be found is in London, wnere all
sorts OF curIOusly cOncOcted drinks are
sold under alleged American names as al
legged American drinks, and lead TO er-
roneous views of American character.
While the mixed-drink bar lasted, how
ever, il Afforded scope for much original
ity, tor the old-time barkeeper invented
names and drinks to tit the occasion and
the hour l remember the "Heenan
smashes,' tie ''Sayers knockdowns,n
the paul Morphy,' and all the varieties
OF connection that were incidental to the
great prize fight and chess contests. and
SO on. ''0aribaldi punch" wasn't a bad