The record-union., 1894-06-07
IN A KURDISH CAMP.
Americans Enjoy the Hospitality of
Wild Herdsmen.
How the Fourth Of July Was Celebra-
ted On the Top of Mount Ara
rat by Allen and SachtIeben.

Two young American students, Messrs.
Allen and Sachtleben, made a bicycle
tour around the world Immediately after
their graduation. During their passage
through Asatic Turkey they celebrated
the Fourth OF July by climbing Mount
Ararat--the first Americans to accom-
plish the feat. Their course lay through
the grazing grounds OF wild Kurdish
herdslnen, but they were provided with
all escort of soldiers through the inilu-
cnce OF letter from the Grand NiZir. In
tie Century they give the following ac-
account OF a night spent among the no
mads:
The disk OF the sun had already touched
tie western horizon when we came TO
the black tents OF the Kurdish encainp-
ment, which, ut this time OF the day, pre-
seuted rather busy scene. The women
seemed to be doing all the work, while
their lords sat around on their launches.
Some of the women were engaged III
milking the sheep and goats III an III
closure. Others were busy i'll making
butter in a churn which was nothing
more than skin vessel three feet long,
OF the shape of Brazil nut, suspended
from rude tripod; this they swung TO
and fro TO the tune of weird Kurdish
song. Behind one of the tents, on a
primitive weaving machine, some OF
them were making tent-roonng and mat
ting others still were walking about with
a ball of wool in one hand, u dlstaff in the
other, spinning yarn. The hocis stood
round about, bleating or lowing, or chew
ing their cud in quiet contentuent. All
seemed very domestic and peaceful except
the Kurdish dogs, which set upon us
with loud, fierce growls and gnashing
teeth.
Not so was it with the Kurdish Chief,
who by this time had finished reading
the mutessarit's message, and who now
advanced from his lent with salaamS Of
welcome. AS he stood before us in the
glowing sunset, he was a rather tall but
we'll prOportioned man, with black eyes
and dark mustache, contrasting well
with his browntanned complexion.
Upon his face was the stamp OF rather
wild and retiring character, although
treachery and deceit were by no means
wanting. He wore head-gear that was
something between hat and turban,
and over his baggy Turkish trousers
hung q long Persian coat OF bright-co
ored, large-tigured cloth, bound at the
waist by belt of cartridges. Across the
shoulders was slung a breech-loading
Martini rifle, and from his neck dangled
heavy gold chain, which was proba-
bly, the spoil of some predatory eX
pedition. A quiet dignity sat on Ismail
Deverish's stalwart form.
It was with no little pleasure that we
accepted his invitation to cup of tea.
After our walk of nineteen miles, in
W hich we had assembled from 5000 to 1000
feet we were in tit condition to take rest.
That Kurdish tent, as far as we were con-
cerned, was q Veritable palace, although
we were almost blinded by the smoke
from the green pine branches on the
smoIdering fire. We said that the Chief
invited us to cup OF tea; so he did-but
we provided the tea, and that, too, not
only for our own party, but for half
dozen of the Chiet's personal friends.
There being only two glasses in the
camp we of course had to wait until our
Kurdish acquaintances had quenched
their thirst. In thoughtful mood we gaZed
around through the evening twilight.
Far away on the western slope we could
see some Kurdish women ploddipg along
under heavy burdens of pine branches
like those that were now fumigating our
eyes and nostrils. Across the hills the
IA urdish shepherds were driving home
thoir herds and tocks to the tinkling of
bells. All this, to us, was deeply Impress
i've. Such peaceful scenes, we thought,
could never be the haunt Of Warlike rob-
bers. The fiocks at last came home; the
shouts of the shepherds ceased, darkness
fell; and all was quiet.
one by one the lights in the tents broke
ont, like the stars above. AS the dark
ness deepened, they shone more and
more brightly across the ainphtheater OF
the encampment. fhe tent in which we
were now sitting was oblong in shape,
covered with mixture of goats and
sleeps wool, carded, spun and woven by
the Kurdish women. This tentng was
all of dark brown or black color. The
various strips were badly iolned to-
gether, allowing the snow and rain, dur
ing the stormy night that followed, TO
penetrate plentituliy. A wickerwork
fencing, about three feet high, made from
the reeds gathered III the sWampS of the
Aras River. was stretched around the
bottom OF the tent to keep out the cattle
as well as to afford some little protection
from the elements. This same material,
OF the same width or hight, was used
to partition Oft the apartments of the
women.
Ear from being veiled and shut up in
harems, like their Turkish and Persian
sisters, the Kurdish women come and 90
among the men, and talk and laugh as
they please. The thinness and lowness of
the partition walls did not disturb their
astonishing equanimity. In their rela-
tions with the men the women are ex-
frequently found ourselves surrounded
by concourse of these mountain beau
ties, who would sit and stare at us with
their black eyes, call attention to our
personal oddities, and laugh among them
selves. Now aud then their jokes at our
expense would produce hilarious laugh
ter among the men.
The dress of these women consisted of
baggy trousers, better described in this
country as divided SKIRTS" a bright
colored overskirt and tunic, and little
round cloth cap encrled with a band of
red and black. Through the right lobe of
the nose was hung a peculiar button
shaped ornament studded with precious
stones. The picturesque costume well
set off their rich olive complexion.
and their black eyes beneath dark brown
lashes.
There were no signs of an approaching