The morning call., 1894-04-15

Making corsets from life, as the artist would
say, made the reputation of DIR. Warner. whose
factory IS in Bridgeport. Conn. where 1900
women and girls employed the entire year.
Girls receive SO every time they allow ther
pretty figures TO be reproduced and put on sale.
New goods are designed every season and models
are IN demand all the time What is called rrne
figure is very hard 10 fnd-not one model in nifty
Is perfect. Hips are NOT opposite: shoulders are
bum on the bias; iiues between the chest and
waist aad waist and hips neither parallel nor
equal: ons breast may be larger than the other.
and one hip smaller than It's mate To the eye
figure may be absolutely beautiful in outline and
symmetry and yet the measurements prove 1T TO
be false.
just as soon as the model dresses from Paris
Vienna ana London received the task OF
designing cOFsets TO wear with them begins
Sketches, prints and descriptions sre mailed In
Europe ana the designer makes it his business to
see the first Importation of dresses The style OF
the bodice determines the cut of the corset II
the waist Of the bodice is long the waist of the
corset must be long, If the bodice is long the
corset is made long. When fashion ine1ines TO the
youthful styles, such as Recamier and Empress
Josephine. then the corsets made short and
short wasted. For the past seven years women
have been running to waist. and cOrsets were cut
as long waisted as they could bs To make
the figure look still more slender and the waist
smaller, the upper arms were dressed in balloon
sleeves. This extension OF the shoulder line was
followed By a corset as full around the top as IL
could be made without cTeaSlug. the other
hand, the umbrella skirts, haring at the hem, cut
snug as a glove at the hips called tor as little
fullness below the waist OF the corset as the
anatomy would permit. Now that extremes In
the width and length OF bodices nave been
reached there is tendency TO return to the
French figure pure and simple-that is, long
waist, broad shoulders and brOater hips. Zach
generation of American women is more like the
French figure than the preceding, but each gen
Grafton Of French girls is more pronounced than
the previous
IN making new corset the correct modei
changes her clothes for a li2bc-httiAg black SLID
aIl-enveloDing, with drawstring at the neck aud
waist. in this garb she is measured in an incredi
bly, snort time the corset is drafted. cut. stitched
stripped, bOned. finished and tried The fore
woman lares il. the designer and enter taka
turns on their knees before the model pins their
mouth, and scissors ch TX and inch measure at
hand The garment is studied from every point
of view-standing, sitting, bending and walking.
Cores are taken in and out: stays are stftfeEed
duced multiplied, according to the require.
ment; steels are bent and shaped for support or
suppression.
Suppose, for example. the model Is trim little
woman with long. slender waist 81 bust, 81 hips
and 23 waist. Before the corset, made and fitted
10 figure is accepted, II is tried three other
them accurately. This is called verifying mt
Now. there may be 100 girls In the factory all with
y O. 23 waist. but TO suppose that this model cor
set will fit them all is an absurdity Nature never
duplicates her handtwork.
TIE same care and skin are exercised in design
ing corsets Tor other figures, so that whether
wom2n is eXtra-loHe, long, medium or short
wasted. with variations in hip aud bust measure
nlents. the corset is warranted TO ht- 1heTe is
guesSwork about corset modelling. 1t is art work
In this establishment. where the art department
is one of the most important features OF the In
duStry, made in twenty -four sizes, and
each size in twenty-five shapes. the variations OF
which are as subtle and distinct as the huma
anatomy from which they are modelled. It takes
SIX months by the calendar TO design new style
Of corset.
There are better things in corsets to-day than
whale In The first place. choice wh&lebone is
luxury faTtoo precious for everyday wear. The
whale catch is a great uncertainty. When 1t Is
smali the prices go up; when It is large they re-
main near the top, because the supply could not
begin TO cover the demand. A large percentage
o. the imported corsets are boned with horn
Hhsieoone goods are very rare and very
EensWe. fv 80 ier che hest substitute known IS
CoIaline, vegetable fiber obtained from va
riety OF the century plant which has all the elias
ticity OF the ehoicestw wha ebone. weighs consider
it oi5 teSs ana IS absolutely indestructible. Cora
line CorSets OF the very finest French eoutII de-
signed LOT any style of bodice III or out OF fash
Ioh prettlly trimmed and as light as a ladv's IAN
are sold in New York at So a pair. There are
cheaper ana more expensive goods but nothing
peter N inc trade a silk IS more delight
1ul TO the senses OF genteel woman ana a lean
corset is Tar ore durable. but conti will outwear
one ana ontast the other for goods are Iastic
and holds Its shape as no other fabric wi1 Tbasa
CoraIine Corsets are made In twenty-fonr sizes
and there are twenty five different modets .nd
seventy-five styles to select from = hess gaa'Is
are designed to wear with all the fasbin%aIis liz
bodices from the dainty baby was. o@ 49,. ~,
Empire the smart high-bust Enpiish riair
habit There corsets for the growing airi lug
young mother the DIcyele-rider the preffv an nc
letes VINO fence. use dumb-bes ana study Dsi
from 81 TO Sl2
When the freshness is gone when the hons.
loose their elasticity, the arset is worthless One
season is the limit OF a corsets usefulness No
gentew0man need be told this. Thousands
and thousands of women look upon cor
set as body garment for warmth or pro
lection. The only reason why they do not wear
hgh-nscked and lohg g-sleeYed coTsets Is because
they are NOT built that way. For this class OF
trade pair of c0rsets from job lot answers
every purpose when women exercise the same
care IN selecting corsets that they do in buying
shoes. gloves and bonnets and see that they have
perfect fit they will have prettier figures more
style and better-htting dresses The secret or the
French woman's chic and superb figure is not the
material in her costume, but the exquisitely fit
ting corset under IT, JULIA JENNINGS.