New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-03-18
THE CLOTHES OF NAN.
WHAT HE MUST WEAR TO BE IN THE
FASHION.

WHAT HE MUST WEAR TO BE IN THE
FASHION.
The length OF spring overcoats is from ~ TO
inches for the average-sized man, say feet
inches The general favorite is the Chesterfield.
which has fly front 1t may have centre seam
In the back. with fairly long opening at the bottom.
the back may be cut whole, having long side
Sits 1t slightly shaped" in the back. when cut
with a centre seam and has a little less fulness
at the edge than has the "whaleback' garment.
The collar is made from the material. although .
velvet collar may be worn IL must be lined, or at
least faced with silk TO the edge.
The double breasted or box overcoat Is not pop
ular for spring use 1t is better adapted for autumn
and winter having a heavy appearance Ii Is pop
uar however. for driving. and the material used
is melton, kersey and other smooth-faced cloths.
The variety Of material used for overcoats is very
large. particularly in English cheviots. worsted
vcunas wills and Venetians. The colorings are
exceedingly conservative cons sting largely Of soft
shades in drab. slate steel and oxford and Cam
bridge effects. few whipcords seen but while
there Is no material that will wear as WELL unless
There is little change in the cut OF business suits
The three buttoned cu,away holds its own with the
sack probably the latter is the most popular. main
ly for the that 1t has side pockets. which
for a business invaluable. The cutaway
has side flaps but no side pockets. The sleeves are
Slit closed, and have three buttons.
The sack is made In two styles one closes with
three buttons and the front is away so as to
show the lower waistcoat button. The other. the
straight sack which an English style. closes with
four buttons. and the lower corners are gracefully
rounded. The length averages from 80 to ~ inches
The materials for cutaways and sacks embrace
extensive collection. There are worsted vicunas
in black and navy mixed black-gray, Oxford and
Cambridge. dark slate dark blue steel. drab ara
medium brown: sergesAn indigo. navy, the dnerene
shades Of gray and brown very fashionable, ana
soft English cheviots come In black, indigo ana
navy. with large variety Of fancy weaves such as
basket, honeycomb and herringbone.
The three-buttoned cutaway and the double-breast-
ed frock suits remain the correct thing for day
dress. The skirts of the former cling close TO the
hips and show one button OF the walstcoat; me
double breasted frOck. which Is always styiish,
looking garment, particularly on a weil-proportloneo
figure. has changed little since ne short skir r,
and long and fall in graceful folds about the hips
h 1 @s are coseG M h pa hrSe
The materials used for these suits are MANY any
colors, materials which are as plain as possible.
For street gloves the new "oak tan" is much
favored Its shade is light. soft tan or oak: IL has
a pique-stitch, and on the stitching between
the points is red. forming slight but agreeable
contrast. The opening at the wrist is bound with
a duh red not bright to be conspicuous
The "Bohnl'' Is another stylish glove; II is OF me
dunn weight and comes in two shades OF TAM very
closely related The stitch is also pique. The Well
beck a red tan. soft. pque-stitch leather glove 10
of a very fine quality. 1t is lighter in weight than
the Craven tan. which has had such great popu-
larity and ii fits the hand more perfectly. These
gloves are Of French manufacture, but are con-
trolled b. an English firm which furnishes the
American dealer The heavy embroidered stitch.
once so well liked. il used on street gloves.
For fun dress and weddings. cream. light gray
and pearl are proper. For morning weddings the
embroidery is either black or self For afternoon
and evening they must in all be selfstitched
\ suede or undressed kid glove was introduced last
season and seems TO be growing in favor. they
are used entirely for full dress and weddings ana
are made only in gray. pearl ana cream
All street gloves are made in two-button lengths.
horn buttons is all that Is required.