davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27
PARTISAN WOMEN.
HOW THE LUXURY ENFEEBLED
REJUVENATE.
Charity Fairs as Conducted by the
Nobflity-The New Book About the
Greatest of Political Women.

The Knieppe cure has been brought
to Paris from Germany. and promises
to become a fad of the summer.
1t is new fashioned water cure in
spired by Bavarian priest, the Able
Knieppe, and consists in packs and To-
cal cold water applications. 1t condemns
shower baths and all surface irritation
The use of the towel is absolutely for
hidden. Once wet the patient must re-
main wet until dried by nature.
The devotees wiring their night gowns
out in the basin and go to bed in them.
They also wear wet stockings a specl-
fed length of time each day, or walk
barefooted in wet grass or snow. They
may not take coffee or liquors, or wear
flannel or silk, or furs or corsets. The
regime is severe and the garment worn
next the skin, summer and winter, is
of coarse brown linen, known as car
melite or Knieppite linen.
Naturally this herioc Carmelitist
trea tment is easiest followed in the
country, and within a short time the
abbe's little village of Woerschoffen,
in Bavaria, has become a place of pill
grimage so renowned that in i've
months last summer nearly 10000 VS.
itors. it is said, registered there.
1t is the quality of these visitors that
attracts attention, for they number
among them such important personages
as Rothschilds, of Vienna, the Duke and
Duchess Paul, of Mecklenburg, the
Duke D'Alencon, the Infanta Theresa,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

tin cans or glass jars may be imbedded
and completely hidden On the wet
moss we can arrange spring beauties,
dog tooth violets, pansies or marsh
marigolds. Care should be taken not
to mix any aggressive with delicate
pink; the colors do not look well togeth-
er. Again it is a pity to mix colors to-
gether in variety. / always
find that the most artistic re-
suits are obtained with a combination
of not more than two colors, and one
of these white. A box of flowers ar
ranged in this way for out of door
decoration, if sheltered from the sun,
will last a long while.
If one wishes to use a wreath in the
scheme of decoration it would be better
to be composed exclusively of leaves;
nothing is prettier for this purpose
than Kalmia mountain laureD. and a
bit of white or light green satin rib
bon to make up a modest bow and
streamers at the point where the stems
begin.
For vases, I greatly prefer for out of
door work the japanese terra Gotta
ware, usually in cylindrical form, that
goes by the name of Tokonabe. Quite
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

A little attention bestowed on the
character of a flower will help one to
understand now two or more of them
nav be ,artstically combined. Yellow
daffodils look pretty with white cherry
blossoms, and the Pyrus japonica COM
bines we'll with white narcissus; but
pansies or violets always look best
flowers are graceful, others are cheer
full; some are bold and effective, like
the jack in the pulpit; some are deli
cate. like the lily of the valley. II
stands to reason that these must be
arranged so their characteristics are
not hidden. 1t is possible to produce
a pretty group of buttercups and dali
sizes, whose gold and white effect is
always charming; but the addition OF
a single pink blossom spoils all! To
keep flowers looking well the water
should be changed daily and old BIOS
SONS thrown away. Then the groups
should be carefully adjusted with re-
lation to each other, so no two tall
specimens should appear together. A
little sunlight may do no harm, DuL
cut flowers exposed to the full rays OF
a powerful sun wilt at once, and a
pretty arrangement is soon spoiled.
Early morning is the proper time to
pick flowers. They should be immedi-
ately sprayed with a rubber sprinkler,
which, by the way, is invaluable to
one who is gathering fresh blossoms.
We are apt to treat flowers carelessly
"a handful of them picked in the heat
of the day without a. good sprinkllng
is soon in the same condition as a fish
out of water. Later on [ will have
something to say about flowers which
are remarkable for the length of time
they will keep in water.
+. SCHUYLER MATHEWS.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27
FLOWERS FOR DECORATION.
Commoner Use of Them Might Re
Made Than There Is.

We all know perfectly we'll that a
beautiful thing may be quite spoiled
by using it in some way inconsistent
with its character. This is particularly
true with regard to a flower when it
is used for the purpose of decoration;
it is too often the case that one loses
sight of the beauty Of flowers by rea-
son of the compact way in which they
are arranged. A word or two about
the characteristics of certain flowers
may help us toward a more intelligent
use of them.
One of the greatest faults of our liv-
ing today is characterized by a cease
less effort to get more out of a thing
than by nature it was ever intended
to give. Flowers are frail, short lived
things; we are SO impatient about this
that we resort to q. subterfuge-we
manufacture and tolerate artificial
ones.
Now, there is no part of the year in
which we must needs go without flow
ers; those of us who care enough for
them may possess certain easily grown
varieties from November to April, with
out more expenditure of time and
trouble than we are willing to lay out
on many other things which I believe
do not repay US half as well. What
I wish to point out particularly,
though, is the fact that we do not make
the best of our opportunities l have
seen such a thing as a vase of paper
flowers in a country house, not five
minutes walk from which a glorious
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

The question as to whether CAMP
dresses are good or not has finally
been decided in their favor. By good
is meant good for washing.
The colored prints of all kinds fade
unless washed with great care, and
should never be boiled; whereas the
camps. being of white material. can
stand very rough usage, and as most
easily soiled, it is necessary to wash
them twice where the dress itself needs
to be washed but once
Sashes are not so much worn by
little children as they were last year.
The dresses, as a. rule. are finished
around the waist with a wide beading
through which is run narrow ribbon. or
as on pink Bingham I saw last week,
with black velvet ribbon.
The skirts are made quite full with
deep hem.
The waists are almost invariably
trimmed with a bertha of embroidery
with big puffed sleeves, which reach
nearly to the elbow. The camps can
be very elaborate or very simple but
must be made with big sleeves
PINK, GREEN AND BROWN.
A pretty spring dress for child was
shown the other day 1t was made of
queer colored crepon, which had shades
of pink. green and brown. The skirt
was made with two rows of narrow
guipure embroidery. 4 wider en-
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

cluster of witch hazel in bloom might
be had for the trouble of picking. We
have many of us seen the graves of
departed ones decorated with the
dreadful falsity of metallic looking
wreaths or compact rings of dried,
lifeless everlasting flowers, when the
woods and the fields were rife with the
delicate beauty of countless wild flow
ers. What does this all mean? Are
we growing blind to the beauty of
nature, or do we want something that
will last even though it must be made
of wax or paper, or tin and paint?
But I am looking at the vulgar and
false side of the decorative use Of
flowers; there is another side with
which we are far more concerned.
Those of us who abhor the artificial
and who try to make the best of what
flowers nature gives US in early spring
need to know just how to arrange the
dainty things so their beauty will be
seen at its best
Suppose we cast aside every con-
sideration of those things to which we
nave become accustomed and proceed
with an entirely new principle in view;
that is, the following of nature in her
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

as possible. This seems as far out of
doors as a basket ought to go, con-
sidered from the decorative point OF
view; yet one not iunfrequently sees 1t
forming some feature in the ornament
al furnishing of a garden. What we
need to appreciate most in the decora-
tive arrangement of flowers is simple
ity The perfection of grace and color
form in a single branch of the flower
ing almond cannot be approved by the
addition of other flowers, nor by any
conventional arrangement. We must
learn to leave nature alone sometimes
most of the errors in our attempts TO
create beauty proceed from an over
Jealous disposition to invent something.
Now, nature has invented more beau
tiful things than we can ever live long
enough to become acquainted with! We
need TO learn that the combination OF
three varieties of flowers may bring
about artistic results, where a dozen
varieties will surely fail. The beauty
of apple blossoms, syringa, wistaria,
lilac and deutzia is lost when any of
these are indiscriminately mixed. 1t is
best to combine yellow with white, and
keep yellow, red and pink apart.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

bordered with velvet and a band of
guipure insertion above. Bonnet of
fancy yellow straw black velvet and
roses.
A gray and white striped silk, the
bodice front of bolero falling open over
that is passed round the neck, crossed.
on the bosom in a knot caught with
Jewels, and falls in two ends to the foot.
Bonnets of white and pale naauve Grape
rosettes and black velvet.
Mrs. Eustis, wife of the United States
ambassador, very elegant in old-rose
taffeta and cream gulpure.
a GREAT WOMAN POLITICIAN.
A book just appeared in Paris, his
tory of Catherine II of Russia, is worth
womens noting for its aid towards in
spring respect for the feminine intel
lect.
1t is called sAntour dun Trone,o and
is written by Waliszewsky, others of
whose works of Russian history have
been crowned by the French academy.
The peculiar historical value of the
authors works are said to lie in the
fact that he has been able to publish
historian, though having access to the
same documents in the Russian arch
ives, are prohibited by the imperial
government from publishing. This is
why doubtless this writer's work sets
forth in clearer day than has hitherto
been done the genius of a woman
whose life has-been enveloped in clouds
and mainly seen through vague
snatcheS of scandal.
The book is a recognition that the
great man of Russia. was a. woman.
Catherine stood alone. In the deve1-
opment of other states the ministers
have often played greater parts than
the sovereigns, as Richelieu than Louis
XIII, Bismarck than William II, and
there have not been lacking prejudiced
isneers that successful female sover-
eigns have wed their greatness to the
men about them.
But around GATHERINGS throne the
chief men were mere auXiliaries that
played subservient and feeble role.
She could truly say to herself Il have
made war without generals and peace
without ministers"
There was never perhaps a more one
sided idea Of a historical character than
has been prevalent of Catherine the
Great. She has been represented briefly
as a woman given up to orgies. This
was the impression [ had of her as a
child and I got it, if I am not mistaken,
from schoolbooks.
A juSter presentation of her as one
| of the strongest intellectual forces in
history, woman who definitely placed
her nation in what is known as "the
European concert" should modify
siderably the political interests of wo-
men.
The French who read everything con-
corning Russia with avidity are speak
| ing of her as the modern Semiramis.
ADA CONE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

an effective group can be made of the
SNOWFALL and Spirea P. in such vase.
If one has no vases at their disposal.
or does not wish to risk the loss of
them in public places, it is possible to
use tin cans in an artistic way by bury
ing them in stones and moss and filling
the interstices with some pretty speci-
mems of wild flowers, such as violets,
anemones, housa tonia, etc. Syringa,
and lilac. combine prettily in color and
form, and a bowl shaped glass vase
with a. group of purple and white flow
ers will look well on any pedestal
shaped base. This seems, though, far
out of place when removed from the
house. There is something homogeneous
in the appearance of a glass vase and
the greensward seen together Even a
basket is not at home out of the house.
There was a beautiful custom among
boys and girls in times gone by of
hanging a basket of spring flowers on
ones front door knob. ringing the bell
and then getting out of sight as quickly
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

freedom of arrangement. 1 mean some
thing exactly opposite to a conven-
tfonal made up. flower piece.
1t is not only a very possible, but a
very practicable thing to arrange a
long, narrow box like that which my
sketch shows, with poisoning
branches and groups of wild flowers.
The material at our command in spring
is so varied and plentiful that there
is not space enough here to mention
one-half of it. There is yellow for
sythia' pink Towering almond cydonia
japonica, Weigela, SNOWFALL, spiraea
prunifolia (bridal wreath)) and an end
less number of wild Towering shrubs,
not the least of which is the familiar
choke cherry; these dainty blossoms
are all that are needed to make our
box beautiful. 1 say nothing about ap-
pie blossoms with pink stripings; we
all know how beautiful they are, but
they must be prettily arranged.
The box need not be water tight; it
can be filled with wet moss in which
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

gives the expression a one-sided aspect.
The prime brighteners and darkenera
Of the age are sleep and exercise in the
open air.
The carriage Of the eyes has much
TO do with beauty. All affected tricks
OF the eyes, such as ogling and rolling
them UP, so that the white is visible
beneath the iris. are deplorable. More
eyes have been ruined by the abuse of
Delsartean training than bettered by
its right application. I have in mind
one or two pretty young actresses who.
as novices, INDUCED in many absurd
optical gestures, which fairly ruined
their prettiness for the time being. A
Niobe-like upheaving of the eye may
be appropriate at certain tragic juno
lures on the stage. 1t is a Character
istic" pose Of the eye, and, as such.
pleases us in its proper place; but it
never adds beauty to the face.
MARIANNE T. MCANN.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

| broidery to match, went over the
sleeves and down to the waist line in
! front, where were two rosettes and
ends of narrow brown MORE ribbon.
At the back of the waist were two
more rosettes and ends of the ribbon.
The sleeves were full, puffed to the
elbow; from there down fitted quite
tight with three rows of the lace in
sertion.
REFERS AND COATS.
The REFERS and covert coats are worn
both by boys and girls; the REFERS for
hard play and the coverts for best"
The short REFERS are excellent coats;
| they are very light and do not inter
fere al all with playing, and are warm
enough for any ordinary weather even
in this extraordinary climate.
MILLIONAIRE CHILDREN.
The Webb and Vanderbilt children
have worn a great deal the past winter
little velvet gowns of black and brown
with guipure lace collars and cuffs.
For parties and dancing school they
have worn ACCORDION pleated silk
frocks, trimmed with berthas of lace.
In England where it must be con-
coded, children are better brought up
and better dressed than anywhere else
all elaborate frocks before I girl has
reached eighteen are considered to be
bad form. Many sensible American
mothers feel exactly the same way
! Cashmere and light wooens are much
better adapted for children in the win
: ter and muslins and organizes in the
summer, than silk can ever be. There
is time enough for silk when they are
older.
APRONS. ARE WORN.
Fancy aprons are a great addition to
every little girls wardrobe For school
wear they are indispensable if a child
/ is to be kept neat and trim.
These aprons are prettieSt when made
of sheer white lawn and trimmed with
a bertha and deep frills around the
sleeves, made of embroidery about a
finger width. They do not need any
4 embroidery around the hem. They
should be tied at the back with broad
sashes of the lawn edged with the en-
broidery.
TAN THE COLOR FOR SHOES AND
STOCKINGS.
Tan shoes and stockings are the pref
test for boys and girls in summer. The
tan stockings, curiously enough, are ant
but they wear longer and look infinitely
better II possible. they should match
the color of the shoes perfectly
Patent leather shoes with cloth tops
for little girls, and patent leather
pumps for boys are the only proper
wear for dress occasions
After giving out these styles as 20
dressing children. it seems best to add
that leather seems at times the only
material with which to clothe the ris-
ing generation, for no healthy child but
will tear and destroy the prettiest gar
ments ever made, and the healthier
they are, the more destructive they
seem to be.
My advice would be to provide each
child with as few clothes as possible
two suits put away and only one to be
worn on special occasions Otherwise.
in the middle of summer, mothers are
apt to find themselves in a sad GUAM
dairy to know what they can possibly
do when the whole large stock pro-
vided in the spring has apparently
come to an end.
/ ANHELM.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27
cHrLDREN's OUTFITS.
Sensible Suggestions to the Average
Mother.

Sensible Suggestions to the Average
Mother.
The question of dressing children,
that is, clothing them, does not present
che same difficulties to the mind of the
,podern mother as in years gone by.
zone of sthe favorite ideas of writers
used to be the love, devotion and care
of mothers for children as eXemplified
the hours they spent stitching on the
little clothes, Those same authors
never thought it worth while to dwell
on the state Of nervous irritation those
mothers sewed themselves into While
not half so romantic nor sentimental
is it to buy for ones children ready
made clothes, there is no question that
home is not made happier in conse-
quence.
For very fine and expensive clothing
it is we'll Of course. to have garments
made TO order at the shops, or at home
10y some clever seamstress; but the
wear and tear children see fit to give
their clothes. joined to the healthy
habit they have of outgrowing said
Clothes. leads practical minded women
to purchase everything they can ready
made.
FOR BOYS UNDER TEN.
Such dainty. pretty and picturesque
styles as are now to be had for chill
dren's garments!
The little sailor suits are the very
best for ordinary wear, and for little
boys. for every wear. The finest are
made of the imported duck or pique,
but the American materials and the
Galatea cloth, which can be bought
from eight cents a yard up, are every
whit as effective and equally durable,
especially if it be borne in mind that
they shrink much more in washing
than the imported cloths, and allow
ance is made at the outset
Sailor suits can have either long or
short trousers, as fancy dictates but
the little fellows themselves vastly
prefer short ones. These are incest
for summer wear. as they do not neces-
state the wearing of any starched
shirt or collar On a. warm day all
that a. boy needs to look we'll and be
supremely comfortable is undershirt
and drawers Of the thinnest kind OF
rnerino, and a sailor suit
For dress, the white serge and the
white duck are all that is necessary.
The broad collar must be of dark blue,
with two rows of very narrow white
braid The vest piece should have an
anchor embroidered on 1t in dark blue
or red, and on the sleeve there should
be another embroidered anchor. A long
nalf handkerchief of thin black silk
.4nust be knotted inside the collar with
eSthe ends tucked under one of the but
I ton holes.
FOR BIG BOYS.
For boys over 1G years it is better to
put them in trousers and jackets. At
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27
THE LATEST IN PARIS.
A Tu1e Neck Garniture, and Para

A TuIle Neck Garniture, and a Para
sol with Lace Birds and Bats.
The toilettes at the recent Concours
Hippique, in Paris, showed scme brand
new ideas and among them tulle neck
garnitures.
Tulle is the new favorite and it must
be said that it has its charms. 1t en-
velops the throat In a vague cloud, out
of which the head energies like Pier
rots
Fancy this cumulous vapor floating
over a water-green taffeta silk belted
with floating ribbons. The idea is cool
and summary. Add a parasol that no
longer turns, as of old, a hard, defiant
eye to the sun, but lures it's rays in
transparent insets of curious form
fabulous beasts and birds, wrought in
lace, through which the light Sits as
through a forest.
The latest imagination is two enor-
nous tulle rosettes placed one under
each ear. The effect is surprising be-
yond description. 1t had seemed that
we were already widened at every
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1894-05-27

of Portugal, the Persian Shah's ddugh-
ter. and bishops, patriarchs and papal
nuncios.
The things that such people do every
body else wants to do and so the
Kneippe cure is the fashion.
Moreover some value has been found
in it, The German physicians who be-
gan by pooling have ended by CERT
flying that the humble able is nat
ural physician and his system worth
the attention of the scientifically
trained doctor, and everybody in the
German countries today has hnelpp-
iste literature in the hand.
AS to Father Kneippe himself he
seems to bear modestly his honors,
which have recently eliminated in his
being manded to Rome to treat the
pope. Credit is evidently due him for
a disinterested effort to bring luxury
enfeebled people back to nature, and
the simple and regular life of the or
ders appears to have furnished him
the model.
The matter has ended by reaching
France and there are, it is said, al
ready several Kneippiste journals,
pharmacies and physicians. and the
gossip is of a Kneippe institution to
treat invalids at Paris.
A CHARITY FAIR IN PARIS.
A less serious commercial atmosphere
seems to pervade the charity sales held
by French society women than broods
over those 1 have seen in New York.
There are no gay little booths with
colored draperies and panoplies of flags,
no miniature pagodas or Swiss chalets
that entice the eye and frame in the
women, and make mute but unrnis-
takeable calls to pocket book.
The women are not in costume. nor
even in aprons, nor do they make any
show at all of playing the vender.
The correct manner 1t appears IS 10
look Indifferent to the object of the
gathering and to give ones money be-
hind the door, having ordered one may
conjecture, the worth of it sent home
without having taken the trouble to
choose.
At least this was the impression con-
veyed to a. stranger at fair. held ur1-
der the auspices of the Countess Hoyes,
wife of the Austrian ambassador, and
of the Countess de Biron, the other
day. at the Austrian embassy, at
which all the aristocratic Partisan and
foreign official world assisted.
Long square-cornered tables were
ranged along the walls and covered
with white cotton, and upon them the
articles for sale were placed with no
special care to make the showing at
tractive.
The great show of the fair was the
women themselves All the beauty and
brilliance of aristocratic Paris dressed
in the latest elegancies of the mode
thronged the splendid salons. and sat
round. and gossiped and overlooked
into the beautiful gardens, just as al
any other afternoon reception.
A stranger would have been puzzled
how to make purchase, if he did not
forget entirely that he entered with
such an idea. Who could look beyond
these exquisite women in ravishine
toilettes to white cotton background
spread with pin cushions and mats.
AS for the articles on sale they were
not different from those that American