The morning news., 1894-10-21
The WOMAN OF FASHION.
The BeWildeTing NazeS Of the Pulled
Sleeve.

Sleeves for Day and Evening Wear.
They Need Not Match Your Costume
in Material or Color -Fancies for the
Evening-Practical Hints to the Home
Dressmaker.
New York. Oct. 2O.-We know that
lovers and poets delight to sing the praises
of "star-liSe eyes, rosy cheeks, coral lips.
lily hands and tresses Ike the morn
and the happy possessor of all or any of
these charms may rest content with the
share of beauty which nature has appor-
toned her But what about the poor
damsel whose every feature is plain and
unattractive, whose tresses do not flow
luxuriantly over her Shoulders, whose
hand isn't of lily whiteness2 Must she
retire into a corner and exist without
those admiring male glances that are
quite indispensable to the girl who isn't
'advanced2"
Not alway; there is still something left
for her. Let her look to her arms. If
they are beautiful, she need not yet de-
spalr. For therein lies wonderful possi-
bilities. The Parisians have been the first
to realize this; for most of their after
noon gowns are now made with sleeves
that reach only to the elbow. But the
American girl is either wiser or more con-
servative-for she waits until evening to
bare her arms. Is it that she breads the
glare of the sun upon them, or that she
shinks from exposing them to too general
a gaze, and reserves them for the eyes of
drawing room and ball room frequenters?
Who can tell.
At any rate we are sure that she is
beginning to bestow more care upon those
pretty arms If you will go into the phys
ical culture schools of any afternoon you
will see how much time is devoted to this
portion of the training. Arms are raised
high and dropped with heavy relaxing;
are flung backward as far as possible;
are twisted around in q lick circles. are
put gracefully at the back of tEe head
captivating attitudel Then there is
pensive attitude or dropping on one knee,
leaning the elbow upon it, while the hand
supports the upraised chin. How this
could be utilized by the nineteenth cen
tury girl is puzzle which she must work
out for herself. And when she has ac-
quired perfect facility and grace in the
exercise of these members, attention is
given to the appearance Of the arm. Is
it sufficiently plump and white? Is the
skin smooth and spOtless? If she finds it
rather dry, and disagreeabIe to the touch,
it requires a vigorous rubbing twice day
with a flesh brush or a coarse towel, after
d
rubbed in although the latter operation
should be performed only once or twice
a week In washing the arms. always
use soap in which there is a preponder-
ance of oil over alkali. If the skin of the
entire body be thoroughly rubbed once a
day, it should be in so good a condition as
to give the arms the clear tint that is
sought after 't-H
The sleeve question is very satisfac-
tory one this fall and winter First, be
cause the day sleeve is draped in a man
ner calculated to hide many defect, and
secondly, because the evening sleeve is
such a liberty loving affair, and conforms
TO no rule or reason.
Let us start logically, and consider the
day sleeve. Or, rather, let us note the
points of similarity between the day and
the evening sleeve. OF course their in1e-
pendence attracts us at the very begin
ning-the fact that they are so often of
an altogether different material from the
gowns they accompany "A velvet sleeve
is slipped into cloth bodice; a. silk bodice
boasts a satin or chiffon sleeve; a SHIN
mering gauze bodice is weighed down with
heavy velvet or brocade shoulder puffs;
an upper puff of velvet has cloth cuff be-
low. A lace ruffle or band is no uncom-
mon thing on any sort of a sleeve.
Then, as said before, the sleeve is so
accommodating. 1t spreads so that it
Immediately fixes the attention upon it,