davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

vuy thss Their have NE effect Of snk sh,r,
underneath, which ahovs thrsueh the trass-
parent meshea They are mere closely woven
than the others and onRht to be - durable as
they are EXPENSIVE Pin-ehseked, white. and
solored mohalrs and canvas. which IL . wool
fabric woven Of coarse wiry thread into little
squares, are both favorlts materials foe see
side costumes. shades OF tan beige, nayv
blue. and black are the prevailing eolors for
street wear Checked silks are eombinad
with crApons and canvas With very pretty
effect The mode In skirts IL still small
on the hips and widening at the bottom.
with here and there q plated skirt
for variety Some are Slated in the
front and back with three box plaits like the
Norfolk Jackets; others are plated on one
side. and still another fancy is to plsit them
across the front and both sides These skirts
hang from the waist over foundation. - they
did years ago
The UNIQUE Gem animation Of wool goods and
piou6 IL illustrated In the flrst cut. which 10
composed Of gray and white check. The
skirt IL slightly draped at the side. displaying
white pique skirt covered with string col
ored Euipure. and fastened with two large
pearl buttons. The square. loosely falling col.
lar. or revers, Is Of pioue trimmed with .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
Fsuaa : MsraaIa'. = .,Istoa.
Eonh la, 0 L.nn, "a. % -


MOBILE. April 2O.-An ichthYOlogieal spsei-
men found on the beach al low tide By William
Clark. at PoFtsTsyille. Was brought 10 the city
to-day by Dir. r. ). Parker aud turned over to
Dr. L, y, MOhr for examination and name.
The eaItia glnous skeleton. not complete Is
said 10 be that OF meTmaid. aud It's structure
and formation would greatly tend to prove the
as a NEUROLOGICAL tale. Tn. specimen 10 aUOut
i've inches long and two anil half vi le gem
orally. and held up 10 View Il certainly repre-
sents tho bust And back OF a woman. llares on
each side show where arms or III peTs were
Ioiued, and the specimen bears Our In rontnur
the form ot the female waist Looking at tAs
Incomplete skeleton on the top is seen d GOA.
pl-te articulation for the neck
IL Is stated o. a former resident Of pgrt.rs-
vile that MIR. Mull Dorian once sent a Inc
specimen complete to New Orleans II had a
round head rather human. and almost AMMAN
eyes. while the body from the waist Town was
that Of Ash. but the bOdy uAI shaped mge6
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Sble bow at the throat, fastened with paste
buckle and edged with cream lace. pretty
bodice for evening wear Is finished across the
square neck with the new yAndyked lace.
This may be made OF shot satin In delicate
eolorinR and worn over white mOusseline de
sole sklrIs. A very elegant waist may be m ad Q
OF black and white silk 10 wide stripes 1t Is
plated In such a way that the white is entirely
= slsndsS srfeet 10 The aenrs Wids e,iIsr Of
white Is cut with two scailops. both back and
'front.' 10 covered with letted net. and trim IN cd
with hne black lace six or seven Inches wide.
This has something the effect of a yoke. Mar
row folds OF black velvet finish the neck and
form the bait
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
rgE BAIIoxAL DRESS CLUn

wsn.a 81 Denver whs Prspose e vys.-
Cor.tsrtphis Ait,re-Tbrir Pledge.
The male population Of Denver. Col. IL Just
now In state Of daily expectation Of an event
which IL TO reyolutlopiEe soeietV-ln appear
ancs ct least
For some time the men have had q suspicion
that the women had concealed somewhere
about them that unknown quantity q divided
skirt in spite OF the fact that their skirts still
now about them as gracefully and innoeently
as though dress reform had never been heard
o. But their suspicious have a pretty firm
foundation. A Rational Dress Club IL only
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
MISS BEAIRIOE HxRRADEM

The Young Ensii.h wcmau who Wrote
"ship- thnt Pass In the Night"
Miss Beatrice Harraden. the author OF Ships
that Pass In the Night" lie a frail little woman.
who looks older than her thirty years should
make her. Americans will soon have an OPP
Dortunity Of seeing her. for she has been asked
by her physician to spend six or seven months
on fruit ranch In California.
Miss Harrsden was born In London. and re-
ceived the earlier part Of her education In
Dresden. Aiterward she studied In several
English colleges, and In 1883 took her degree
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
10 as.Iss AasIsat Arsas IDEAS

Mira Resant writes from csWnpoTe TO sAI
that shs has bssa previously mlsreDEssshtsd
She denies that she syST melted Indian youths
70 Eshsl against England. and Is for bathing
dAilT amRRg tbs pilgrims Ia the sacred GsREsA
perish the thought Her AnbitioR Is 10 revive
aneient AEyan deals aud oppose them TO eX-
oils mAtsEialsm shs ssehogs politics a. :
curse aad plss hST iAISh 20 aheis5H
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
WIN THE WOMdN FESCERs.

The ChanpIsn az th- BerksIsy-A Great
Exercise Tor Health GIvlAE.
The French art now absorbing the attention
OF the society girl Is fencing. and mask and
foil are among her treasured possessions.
Aside from fencing being quite the smart
thing to do. 1t is a health giving exercise. aud
It makes one supple and graceful
The maiden who would acquire the art
either attends the classes OF one OF the numer-
Gus professors. . mRltrs d'Armss visits her
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
ntorsns, RAW avn ELA soRArE

Fes's Nav. rts- Thrss 60 n BoSrr sfThs-,
Il Net ,o>Re IL the swiss.
The evolution Of the simple blouse TO an sle-
cant bodice, lined, bonsd. aud mArvellously
made. Illustrates the wonderful possibilities
Of 90 idea In fashion. Frills basques, and
elsbors'e Trimmings have been added until IL
has become . most conspicuous feature Of
afternoon and evening dress as we'll as morn
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
MAT TOuESA"EAAlI,GASpDoIS DOME,

woman told the following little Incident
the other day: Il VAS az a woman suffrage
DarlOr meeting" she said, and saw one Of
the most charming society women 10 tOwn
among the guests. She always seemed To me
as II she ought 70 be Kept ia glass case she
EaS 80 sxQulslts ARd refined. Alter the meet
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

sxtreorflnssv vigtpes IA HInduisu. which By
AS.TW. sssygs xoy,sn IN 4 sspdltion which
MFf. Hesant aayA thnt her Hinduism II of atiI9s
4 eppefior orNer very different fron, the
modern, corrupt tgpe.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Blue and violet are the latest mixture OF
colors for bridesmaids' costumes. The
dresses are Of sky blue silk. and cream straw
hats are trimmed with profuslon OF violsts
and a cream white bow. The combination
may be new aud dlstingu6. but 1t Is certainly
irritating to look upon.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
FREAKS AND FKILLs OF FASHION.

An exhibition OF the craze In London for
carrying out color decorations WAS displayed
at dinner given by the Women's Gardening
Association. 1t was all green and white.
Prstty.green baskets we're Allied with Solomon's
seal. lilies Of the valley. ana white roses. and
arranged on a green cloth. Green candles In
white dishes. punches Of green leaves tied
with white ribbons. and white roses in the
finger bowls completed the scheme OF color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

yos are nee s.Su n2 ea slci mr.
late election 81. 2o5 men were thus penallEsd.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

sashes OF gauzs. chiffon. muslin. ribbon. soft
silk or satin from the piece are fashionable
again. The ends may be bread or narrow.
and they may tie on the side or at the back
but they arc sure to find place on all thin
summer gowns.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

SILK rsttlcOats are the most distractinR
things in underwear They are made OF all
the delicate shades aud daintilY trimmed with
lace. new fancy is TO line them with hannsl-
cite. so as 10 abolish the extra undsEskirt.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Il h v VII n: sif .T y r.; NJ y &C.
ouaintanee, urging them to stay In town 10
vote AZ the election. Not one Of them did. and
bic mep wouldn't vote. the resDsctabls women
ought to-"
II IL said that when Queen Victoria was
quito little girl she spent an afternoon with
Queen Adelaide. who assured her that she
might do anything within reason that she
wished After veighty consideration, the lit
her euoh pleasure rs to be allowed to clean the
windows SO cloth, pail and water and
pieces OF wash leather were supplied to her
and nightly did she revel In the indulgence.
when one reads the terrible secrets OF the
manufacture Of various edibles. IL is a marvel
that ono has any appetite left. II is now
stated that n band Of bakers in Vienna are
using soapsnds to make the bread lighter than
ever. y Is hard TO imagine q less appeuzlng
eoncoction than sospsuds and dough. but it IA
claimed that so carefully is IL knended that
the suds impart an infinite delicacy" to the
loaves. 1t mar be So
=. The Federation OF womens Clubs will hold
it's second annual Convention in Philadelphia
on May q 8. 10. and IL.
Partisan women are now adjoining them
selves with sundry charms. which they
fasten to their watch chains or wear as ban giles
They are Of gold. silver. or platina. enamolled
with some devise. such rs q swan with the
a heart on which the word "vous" is written
cd,ur est plein de- vous" Another has gayiy
c col iS,s and the e.
forget m g. nots are innumerable.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

"Isigny." which is the name OF . butter
producing locality in France. is also tha name
which iarisians apply to the new butter-eol-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

nstimmings. which are continually taking
q some new form, The ssrpentlne treatment
q lace 10 the latest variety. and 1t 10 m de on
ssurvs. so that when applied It forms ruf-
ne without gathering. which oommsnds
i'self IS q labor-saving invention. Plated
ace kept In place by bands and
higs pear-shaped pieces OF Jet. is an
9hsr novelty. Collars Of yAndYksd lace
whieh extend to the shoulders are very pop
uiAr and long scaris for the neck are being
sOfn again. Spanish lace 10 to be revived. so
1s woman who mas treasured her spanish
iAss scarf since the time they were worn be-
io's may ind it fashionable a. well AS useful.
among other important trimmings are Re-
AIsaanes Vandykes. detachable or together.
sAl'h are made Of tinssl cord and Jet And sim
usIsd ose'ls wings OF ssoulns form Cd into .
sfeu5 gIloon. Jet and eoloTsd beads are
ssA1sd by the designers In every possible way,
ne application OF Jet beads to net. which IL
40 thiekly studded With gold. steel or silver
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Rhinestone buttons are IN great demand for
black and white moire Waisteoats.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

awaiting . few last converts to complete It's
roll Of 100 members to mako Its appearance
before the wondering public. They don't in
tend to troop out In squad like some new
tangled army. but they will put on their new
reform clothes. and. II their courage holds out,
go about the duties OF life as though nothing
had happened.
The models for these reform clothes are
furnished by Mira B. o. Flower the wife OF the
editor Of the Arena. and Laura Lee OF Phila-
delphia. The costume consists OF boomers
and blouse. But Denver does not intend to
be mere copyist In point OF style. so she has
modified the two designs given her By the
East and her leaders OF society will appear in
garb peculiar to themselves. The skirts are
to be very full and gathered Just above the
ankle. so that the folds will fall within five or
elk inches OF the ground and they are said to
follow the movements OF the legs SO grace
fully that 1t is difficult to see much difference
from tho conventional skirt.
1t 10 to the enterprise OF the Chicago Tribune
that the early knowledge Of the reform 10 due.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29
New zsaI~aa wS=sa Turass Oa' TO vss-,

New zsaIAHd WSasa Turasd Out 10 VsGr.
The facts about woman suffrage IN New
Zealand are particularly interesting now Ia
view Of the discussions In this state. OF the
entire nunher OF voters In New Zealand "a
per cent are men and 30 per esRt wonsR. AZ
the election, however. the women voted so
much more generally than the men that ~
per cent OF tls votes we're cast by Homen- Al
though they had OnlY six weeks In VII CHI TO
register luuidl Eomsn registered, and OF
this number M.2uO Voted. In ona place only
land 5, 2s3 out Of total Of U.thO: a. Wslliag-
ton. u l4i out VI n 2SiL Ahd Al ChTiSteh vIsh.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

at her house oRss or twice = week or she Joins
the feRssTs Clab or the Berkeley ladies'
Athletic Cluh
AZ the BsEkslsy ths Young lady Ehs has
borne on the hoRors this year Il Mas Jeanne
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

scalloped edges coming out from underneath
the plaits both back and front. and three
bands over the puffed sleeves. The waist and
basque are cut all In one. and belted In with
the satin. tied In bow at the side. Another
dressy affair 10 OF black and white check or
stripe. fullsd In tho regulation way at the
neck and belt. aud trimmed with three frills
OF the same. falling over the sleeves. the
third extending to the waist and oil edged
with butter eolored lace. To insure success
these waists should be made by very good
drsssmaker. But the simple one which Is only
gathered little at the neck and plated into
soft twisted belt can be easily made at homs
In addition to the Figaro and zousve jackets
90 much worn 10 novelty called the POPPY
xouave." which 10 to be worn over blouse
waists for additional warmth. 1t is sleeveless
~ goods to match the skirt. The one In the
illustration ts edged about the armboles and
Ievers. with o ball beading in jet. and around
the waist 10 bunch OF black satin ribbon
which ties In front A CONNECTION called q gar
dan party Jacket 10 OF pale blue moire open In
lace. The reyers are finished with blue satin
rosettes and the sleeves are caught ct the
shoulder and elbow with rosettes.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

The shspherdess" is one of the fashion
able hats Of the season. The brim Is wide.
soft, and slightly curved like the old fashioned
LeRhoTns. ana 10 left @ hang as 1t will. The
trimming consists OF ostrich tips y big buckle
through which passes black velvet band. and
feathers dropping over the hair at one side.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Fancy and eolored shoes are in high favor
this season. He'd. white. and gold eOlored
ties are pretty for house and piazza wear. aud
every shade OF tan. from pale nun to bronze.
will be worn. new fancy Is q buttoRsd boot.
made lower than the usual style. and fastened
with six large buttoEA
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Characteristic OF the earlier spring modsa
Certainly the erratio Ways Of the Partisan de-
signer are past finding out Now that We have
accustomed our eyes to such atroeious com.
binations Of color a. hsliotrops and blue. and
rsconciled our taste to condemnation OF frills
end furbelovs vithont rhyme or reason. We
fnd We have only been the victims Of food.
Possibly the blaze 81 color and general gor-
gsousness brought up into line at the Horse
Show. which 10 the first public dress parade
u the spring In Paris. was not pleasing re-
teetion for the fashion makers. and hence
NE idea to fee to simplicity for distino-
ton. Dual mixtures OF color are to bs
shandoned. and shot materials. with the
exception Of taffstas. have had their day.
However this may be. 1t 10 safe to conclude
that rigid simplicity cannot endure In the
midst OF such wealth Of beautiful trimmings
y are being displayed. Lace weavers and
manufacturers seem to b trying to Guido
sash other In nnsness Of quality. intricate de-
signs and gorgeous coioring. In fact the
nest striking novelties to be seen are amena
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

psnd OF the lace. which forms the standing
collar and trims the cheuisette and cuffs The
vest 10 also OF tho piqua
A novel costume. which displays one OF the
numerous methods Of using black silk muslin.
10 made Of yellow silk. lightly figured with
black. which forms the skirt waist and
sleeves. and over this Is q sort Of peplum
tunio OF black muslin vandyked ct the lower
edge and also at the Yoke A deep frill falls In
points around the skirt and is headed By . full
ruche OF muslin. which also finishes the points
on the waist The yoke and shoulder pieees
correspond. and Jet belt and collar complete
the gown. A pretty idea for pink and white
chsc ksd silk 10 to cover the sleeves with black
Rauzs and have . wide full sash Of the gauzy
black. A large black hat. covered with pink
roses and one black bow. is pretty finish for
this toilet.
A pretty DESIGN for o green crepon or any
light wool material 10 N odel n mber three. and
easily carried out with bands Of insertion or
ist and handsome buttons. Another example.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1894-04-29

Ing attire. Not to have variety OF waists
ranging between Chsmbray shirt waist and
an elegant silk one trimmed with lace is to bs
out OF the fashion They may be made with
revers wide. long. or narrow. half open or
crossed over showing pretty chsmisettes Of
chiffon. muslin. and batiste. with lace edged
frtIls overlapping each other. with fancy
yokss or simply plain. but you must
have them. Taffsta silks are the most
Desirable for . medium. priced waist 40
the stifnsss gives the sleeves the chile"
stapd-out effect which IL required. Fine checks
In colors and black and white are the latest
patterns A pretty model for q dressy waist
may be copied In plain silk Of any fancisd
color and trimmed with lace Insertions with
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1894-01-01

tenancy. Tho making Of the suit took
three months. and the elated huckster,
drescl In worn and faded suit %
cloihca. paid the costumer $500 for tho
privilege of wearing the costume in tho
parade on New Years day. This morcy
would have gone far toward buying q
little home for his widowed mother and
four little brothers aud sisters, but
neighbors volunteered the information
that tho neither was as pleased as her
son over the prospect, and the children
were kings and queens IN a province Of
onvious plnyinatcs.
Another young man saved mp all the
money he could for six years. and made
his appearance on New Years day, 1891,
in n costume that gained him many
prizes. twas too gorgeous for pen de-
scription, but the joy in his house was OF
short duration, for the young man
caught cold and died two days later.
Tho strangest thing in connection with
this curious custom Is the fact that, de-
spite the great sums paid for the cos
tunes, they do not become the property
of the paraders. When a person wants
a suit, he goes 10 the costumer with his
ideas, and the latter takes the matter I'M
der consideration and finally submits
colored drawings of the design. II gem
orally takes seven OF eight sets of draw
ings before tho shooter" is satisfied,
and then the costumer figures on tho
cost. and the bargain is made. The
costumers are pledged never TO hire the
suits out again for parading purposes.
They are ripped TO pieces, and such Of
the material as can be used Is made up
again into other suits. The costumors
are sworn to secrecy regarding the de-
signs selected. There is reason for this,
as the different clubs have spies out in
all directions endeavoring TO discover
the designs of rival organizations.
The rivalry among the different cap
tains is princely in its magnitude. In tho
parade Of 1892 one of them turned out in
a 5000 suit and was followed by 10 little
lads in fancy costumes, whose duty it
was to keep his cape from dragging in
the dust, while another required IL pages
to carry his gorgeous train.
There is another class Of paraders
known as the "commicks." They differ
from the "shooters" in that no member
10 allowed TO spend more than 81 ON his
costume ON pain Of dismissal from his
club. One captain Of the "commiels"
paraded in cloak that had a 40 foot trail.
1t was trimmed with peanuts, sweet POI
tatoes, old bottles and old boots and was
held up by a score of boys attired in the
castoff habiliments of their fathers and
big brothers.
The custom is almost a century old,
but the present extravaganza in the mat
ter of costumes has sprung up within
the last 10 years. The merchants began
10 offer prizes for the best dressed club,
and the tide of fortune turned in favor
Of the costumers, many of whom have
risen from poverty TO wealth. There is
no telling where the matter will end, but
the custom is firmly established and bids
fair to surpass in magnificence the car
nivals Of the south and west.
W. II. BALIINGER.
The Helena independent. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1875-1943, 1894-01-01

suits its fancy. Two and sometimes
three bands Of music accompany one
club. large sums Of money being spent
in securing the best, from $500 TO 81 900
being not unusual. Gorgeous in rich
costumes, the spectacle presented rivals
the famous Mardi Gras Of New Orleans.
the Yelled Prophets and Priests Of Pallas
Of tho far west. The spirit of rivalry
between the different clubs in the en-
deavor each TO surpass the others In tho
beauty and richness of costume is ram
pant, and thousands Of dollars are spent
in dazzling raiment for the annual one
days strut. The costumers are crowded
10 their fullest capacity for six months
making ready for the bewildering dis
play.
The fun really begins at midnight,
when the bell in old Independence hall
announces the arrival of the New Year.
From that until morning the streets are
made lively by scores of clubs, but these
nighttime jewellers wear costumes of the
cheaper sort.
The wonderful extravaganza TO which
the different members of the clubs Of
shooters" go in procuring gaudy cos
tunes really passes belief. Nearly all
the participants are honest, Woodworking
fellows in the humber walks of life, and
the gratified vanity which comes from
the applause of the multitude does not
mean tho savings Of month or two to
the paraders but represents the product of
q year Of self denial and rigid economy.
At least once a week the members Of
the clubs meet and talk over the display
TO be made ON the next New Years day.
They plot and plan. the one object being
TO defeat all competitors. The aggre-
gate cost Of the 1892 parade was not less
than $SC 900, and this vast sum came di-
rectly from the hardest working class in
the city. AS soon as one parade is fin
ished the members of each club meet
ana talk over the situation. A general
plan Of campaign is LAID ont, and each
one binds himself 10 deposit a certain
sum a week, according to the wages
he earns. The average is about dollar
a week, and with 200 members this
means good start toward procuring an
other outfit. Rank is determined by the
elaborateness Of the costume worn, aud
when once a man gains the position of
captain his relatives will hardly permit
him TO be outdone by any other aspirant
for the great honor, for family pride
flows strongly where the shooters"
abide.
The stories Of individual sacrifice are
positively marvellous. A few years ago
n young huckster became infatuated with
the idea that he would like 10 be a
shooter" and for four years the young
fellow worked night and day, in season
and out, TO save money for the greatest
event of his life. The costume he wore
on New Years day was gorgeously mag
nifcent and entitled him to a first lieu