New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-05-13
TIE WINE BUILDING.

THE WINE BUILDING
Europe or the East for higher grades OF wine than
he was able 70 furnish himself Too often the wine
maker has descended to the level Of his European
brother in turning out spurious wines largely COM
posed OF chemicals. 1t IS this habit. as we'll as the
trick OF furnishing inferior wines 10 large buyers
after securing their orders fine samples. which
has aroused the wrath OF the wine-growers and has
often led to savage warfare The position taken by
many leading wine makers has been that wine Is
wine: their whole ambition seems to have been 20
turn on, so many thousand gallons OF caret or
white wine. Burgundy port. Irrespective Of quail
ity. In many cases these men have said In so many
words: california wine Is used mainly "a base
for the so-caled imported carets and white wines
OF France and Germany. Why should We attempt
TO keep up the standard. when only get a
low price for tho best wine? Why should We
Ill our cellars with wine and try 20 mature Il IN
scientific style when there is chance for mar
Ike, after five or six years OF labor and expense"
The result Of this policy has been 10 food the
East with cheap and Inferior California wine. and
to reduce to the verge Of bankruptcy lnrge num-
Der Of small makers OF superior wine and brandy
These small growers OF grapes who take a pride
I'm their product. have been forced frequently 10
sell their wine before It natures and thus 10 re-
ceve only small fraction 81 what they should
have gained for their time. labor and skill Lately
however a change has occurred. and the actual
hbit.
The wlnc-makers at last have 10 the con-
cluson that the only safety FOR the entire indus
try Is hearty and sincere cooperation Under com
petition the price Of grapes fell low that there
was no money In growing them. ami the future
OF the Industry looked gloomy. Many growers
threatened TO tear up their vines and plant prunes
or other fruits rather than submit TO the hard
terms Of the wne-makers. 50. at last. an agree
ment has been reached between the two rival
factions and this year will probably see. for the
first time. real cooperation between the two de-
partments OF this great Californian Industry. IL
is understood that money will be advanced 10y large
wine-nakcrs 10 small growers. and that on every
hand greater VIII be taken In the picking ana
sorting Of grapes and the making Of wine. strong
effort will be put forth TO check tho sending out
OF cheap grades OF clarcts and 20 prevent entirely
the adulteration Of California wine. II this project
can be enforced then there IL great future
for wine making IN California, as every year sees
a larger demand from the East and from abroad
for good California clarets. white wines and bran
dies.
An instance OF the great evil that has been done
by INSCRIPTIONS wlnc-makers I'm damaging the
reputation Of California wine recently came under
observation. A Arm in san Francisco. which IS
wealthy and does large business In shipping Call
forna wine to the East and abroad. two years ago
sent fine samples OF various wines and branlies
Singapore. The samples were revelation to the
English ana other drinkers In that city, ana the
result liberal order for the wine. This was
filed conscicntousy. and the year fully four
times large an order was received. Then the
cupdity OF the manager Of the firm excited.
and he sent out TO these Singapore men. all OF
whom connOsseurs greatly inferior wines
and liquors. The order had been accompanied ~
checks. that there redress for the swim
died purchasers. but in private correspondence and
I'm the newspapers OF Singapore. well those
OF Hong Kong and Shanghai. California wine
celved damaging blow. from which It IS doubt
full whether 1T will recover. promising
ket absolutely ruined. all through the greed Of
n firm which probably did make a profit OF
more than 500 900 the whole transaction.
This Instance Is given specimen Of what
California wine has suffered from in tho past
the hands OF the men who ought to be its friends.
It is to be hoped that the movement Will
suit in the prompt backls,Ing OF any firm which
INDUCES in practices Ike this.
The first thing that impresses one in looking about
this California exhibit OF wines and brandes is the
enormous increase that has been made within FIVE
years In the botling OF wines In every feature
Of scientific and artistic bottliag the leading wine
makers and growers OF California now fully
equal to their foreign rivals. 1t will surprise any
one who "a familiar with this subject TO IN
spect the best booths In this building. Here will
be found sauterne. and the higher grades OF care;s
put up as only the best French and German bot
tiers are able to do the work In labels also great
care has been taken, and the connoisseur
may not he ashamed to exhibit these wines to
foreign experts. Time when California wine
included only the cheaper clarcts and white wines;
when most OF these wines had muddy look. which
perfectly natural any movement OF the
bottle showed sediment lying at the bottom
around the cork. Now any OF score of eA.
hibits in this building furnishes wine which In
briancy and beauty OF color and in transparent
clearness and freedom from any sediment or must
will compare favorably with the best European
wines
What will surprise any one who has not followed
the development OF California wine s the enor-
nous variety OF products In these booths One
little county in California viii produce as great a
variety of wine as the whole OF France Here
the rich. valley land Of Napa VALLEY. wines pro-
duced on the slopng land that rises toward the
hills and then the clearer brighter wine which
Is grown above the frost line. In district OF
the upper Napa Nalley-St. Helena-you may
here many twoscore varieties OF excellent
wine.
In looking about the building sees many
names that historic in California wine making.
Near the door is the fine exhibit OF me different
growers OF Napa County. Among the leading names
may be mentioned H. w. Crabb. whose To Kalon
vineyard has become celebrated for the excellence
exhibit OF Tiburcio Parrot, OF ST. Helena, who
calls his place not without cause the Chateau Mar
gaux OF America. PARROT Is OF wealth
and taste, to whom wine-malSing has been merely
diversion He has done excellent service In test
ing n large number of the choicest French wine
grapes to ascertain whether they suited to
California soils He shows here some beautiful
white and rad Burgundies. and q Rhine wine that