The sun., 1894-05-05
A COLLEGE OF GASTRONOMY.
HoW NJ FERDINAND BLhNo. CHIEF
COOK, WOULD REMEDY SOCIAL ILLS

The Kitchen the TIVE Conversations OF a..
soeisi Ediaee-Its scisues. PhiIo-ophy y
snd n Euhsues-Hs Proposes a. Eaues.
tiousi Company with 81 900. 900 Capital
for the Promotion OF the Cuiinnry Art
Now here is a man who is worth listening Ia
and attending TO. He is worth listening to.
any way. He is better than all the political
doctors and social reformers. for he offers .
cure for every social III by process approved
oil at least three times day By every human
beinR-Rood cooking. The man who max es
this amiable tender OF a solution tor all the
social vexations fs one Ferdinand Blanc. q
French chef now practising his esteemed pro-
fession In this city as the chef for Mr.. James
V. Parker. one OF New York's most disoriml-
mating gourmets. MBlanc has also had the dis
tinctlon OF being the chef OF the Duke Of Ham
ilton In Paris and steward OF the i'm perlal Rus
sian yacht Asia NJ. Blanc 10 q pupil Of Louis
Fonaue OF MArseilles. He comes before the
American people with an essay to which he
gives the title. On the Foundation OF q Com
pany for the Propagation OF Gastronomy and
the Culinary Art in America"
But he is more than q serious essayist on
cooking; he ls q philosopher. a wit q satirist
and an epigrammatist. His little plan for
founding a college Of culinary art requires
seen what NJ. Blanc can accomplish by his
project, all will agree that he asks for q beg
carly sum. ofthe importance Of providing an
alumni who shall go about doing good By
means OF the spit and stew pan. and OF the
character OF good they shall do. VI. Blanc says:
1t can be said. without being taxed with
exaggerated ideas. that the kitchen is the
true cornerstone OF tho social edlnce. What
not perfect oil else suffers fQudnd ellie ldisse
a desirer. tout sen resent. Public health is
endangered and all social relations are more
or less com promised. There Is only one opin-
ion on this score. and only fools fail to see It,"
Is 1t not indeed worth more millions than the
Coxeyites want tho Government to give them
to secure q true cornerstone for the social edi-
fee and an immunity from compromising So
cial relations7
But NJ. Blanc becomes more interesting.
even AS he becomes more professional when
ne enters into the real consideration OF what
makes good cook. and with what things a
good cook should be surrounded. He some
the boldness Of his attack upon some Of our
most cherished institutions. While we have
T 20 dsys or 10
tion. cold storage. and the convenience OF our
ice boxes. he toldly declares them unhealthy
quently, repulsive." Uncooked meats and
vegetables must be preseryod otherwise. for
served at the daily table"
Ss win; the wsS rHd
the matter OF cleanliness. He wants water
for this purpose used unsparingly. and the
He frankly asserts the first cook Of a large
management is actually the bnther Of Kit hen
severe upon Americans In this regard. Tor,
after saying that an unclean kitchen utensii
Tnis hS the bert .uns Il ss
well-known flavor impaired to American
In his proposed. college NJ. Blanc will not only
train professional cooks for hired service, but
will have classes for gentlemen who have
sS be soss as ssS
the age Of indifference to cookery. for he says:
The ,ich & one appreciates aud sayoIs the deli
Indifference is reached. and the pleasures OF
the table become the last pleasure Of life"
Of the gentlemen amateurs. for OF those he has
found here already he says that they are
age. whose troubles. deceptions. and m miseries
have led them from their former occupations"
Is 81 ns sso
lighter vein. He says of the American cooking
stove that It is generally toe large for 4. pur
that in several In nstances cooking ranges have
the great defect Of roasting all at one time. the
cook and his assistant" But
ne = soon H.1 IN has good word for the fre which
know how to make and Keep UP a H good fire is
great secret q many cooks. However irivoi-
IIs this Truth IN msy appear yet It T. no. to be
lie talks In way that Is absolutely tantaliz- |
ing to the hunger about q properly prepared |
sll that goes toward a complete dinner. but |
only s SO iaE as lust hefore the entrees are |
ent soups, the trium ph Of the French % eoefne. aG
y Lear "a. SOUPS are IN 9 certain way the aperlent
y d the n dinner: thick soups can be considered
prepares the stomach to receive other viands
As for kitchen hors d'oeuvres they must be |
gaiting; their llRhtness. or their suppleness.
10 not allow OF this: 1t were better to Keep the
hes apSs4 HssT sdrs1. Ssaa to
'tances; reiev6s should only be taken from
heir stock at, the last moment; sauces ac-
'nly serve them at the last moment"
llzed regret that the sauces for which he has
he s mSsh. hsaS: 0f the eFTs: 09aff s :.
rood limpid brilliant. consistent, velvety,
SSSCTy SS s%SO,n i.m sod asvGTsd PTodqets
aeturing," He adds with a despairing wall,
cups has long since disappeared"
Mho so mean as to refuse a paltry million
nay Be rssOfed TO the iaSreaors S1nssoSse Of Sss
N. Blanc is nothing less than a writer OF
|
bought as a roast. Listen as he sings;
Roasts must be very tender and OF good aual- |
y; those on a spit we'll dressed. laried, and
asted those In pan or pot having the inside
lell creased over: be careful TO start IL on a
low IRE. and when stiffened, that 1t has some
hat felt the inside heat then push Ii into a
ood hot oven. A roast. to be good. must not
e e burnt. and after taking II out and pouring
II the top OF the stock IL should be brilliant
nd clear and limpid gravy be extracted
'om II this 10 the best gravy that can be
lade. Never baste with water while cooking;
ven were the operation not perfect do not use |
The gravy and sauces from roast meats
hould be exquisite. Wine sauces must be re-
uced as much as possible. But never forget
rat the best roastsr IN the world, especially
well-conditioned spit before spaTk ling IRE"
Our poet-cook has found a well-eondiIionsd
pit before q sparkling are in so few American |
nuses that he has been limited in mis- own
hich. he SAYS, 10 the best culinary Industry |
ndeIstood by the Americans. and adds for the |
snent OF all diners out. that F" a bFoil ia Ali |
lAt one can allow himself to pArtake OF"
Unlike many authorities in his profession, |
Blanc does not speak slightngly OF sweet
ssserts, and In fact gives comfort and counte- |
anee to the American habit Of eating thereof. |
o says; " AS to sweet desserts. We all know