The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1894-09-22
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Fall and Winter MilIinery-New Rib.
bOnS-Trimmings-N woods.

Special Correspondence ofthe Democratic Advocate
Black ostrich tips play an important part in
fall millinery and lie loosely on wide brims OIL
nod effectively in Prince of Wales style.
Black on colors is aleading thought and black
on white continues very fashionable, jet in
crustations on white quill feathers, being a
frequent exponent of the popular idea. Both
white and black birds, chiefly the latter, are
for the same reason brought forward and with
compressed wings stiffened by jet, fall in with
a fancy for sharp, high rising ornamentations
that contrast with chOur placed fatty on brims.
For the last named adornments, there is a
positive rage and largely as they have been
employed during summer, the cool season
finds them in still greater ascendancy.
SATIN RIBBON
is chiefly used in millinery, but change is
given by taffeta most frequently in solid
shades, but 20 a certain extent, in white and
black stripes, dots or checks and checked
ribbons in other colors harmonic with the
fancy for checked fabrics that came about
quite suddenly during the summer. Birds
are an important factor in trimming and in
addition 10 the white or black ones already
mentioned. others dyed in varied colors are
seen, the new bluet blue and bright pink or
green as well, being frequently noticeable.
NOVELTY
is obtained to an unusual degree indeed by
eolors and those just alluded to, being very
different from last winters hues, effect n
marked change. Another decided novelty,
is the braiding together Of narrow satin and
felt strips, which sometimes compose entire
brims or as braids, give finish either on or
below edges. Chenille or glossy passemen-
terie may replace satin or be united also in
a more intricate weave that is occasionally
quite loose. Shapes are similar to those of
the summer The majority of hats and bon
nets are in felt, of which the fine qualities are
dressy as velvet and some glossy beavers are
brought out, while in a minority, are hats
showing crowns that differ both in color and
materials from the brims to which they give
completion. Very dressy little bonnets are
again of jet and gilt.
NEW MATERIALS
are largely in mixtures of silk and wool and
the patterns are usually small and indstinct
in character. B0ucte designs are stylish, but
this season the curl is small and tight, ex.
perience having shown that where the same
is large and loose, it becomes easily unravelled
and thus imparts ragged appearance to the
fabric. favorite mode of placing, is in mar
row rows set closely and here especially a
st1iish NohbihhbiOu 10 vi DlhCh OH Ith.
Bourette patterns in characteristic Irregular
ty, are also feature and serve effectively to
impart desired indistinctness.
SMOOTH SURFACED WOODS
seen at Lord and Taylor's, are varied however
by silken dots placed in formal manner and
kindred, though somewhat larger designs are
likewise noticeable and here too, the leading
position is gwen to black on red. Covert
cloth is even more popular than hitherto and
comes in two hundred different shades.
.cAMEL's HAIR CLOTH
is seen with loose hairs lying over the surface
as evidence of genuineness and as an excep-
ton may be noted some styles which showing
larger figures than those previously quoted,
are finished by tufts of long hair that lie close
to the surface. But these are too daring to
be adopted, except by some tall and slender
persons and are only brought out for the sake
of variety. Economical women are apt to
choose something not pronounced and which
savors of the standard.
Lucy CARTER.