The morning call., 1894-05-05
THE wOoLEN INDUSTRY.


lar industries. The latest of these is a
paper on the textile industries of the
United States, which contains statements
of fact that are interesting if not alto
gether new.
The total amount of the products of the
wool, cotton and silk industries in the
census year was S721, $4,000, something
more than $40 per head Of the population.
This, with the importationS OF foreign dry
goods. represents what the American peo-
pie spend in year for their clothing.
Nearly half of the total amount is wooleu
clothing, about one-third cotton and the
rest silk. About one-half of the whole is
made in the six New England States OF
the total product Of S721. .949, 600. S279. &c.,
600 is credited to the Middle States, mainly
to New York, Pennsylvania and New
Jersey; the small remainder comes from
the Western and the Southern States.
Taking the States separately, Massachu-
setts occupies the leading place as manu-
facturer of textiles, ana Pennsylvania
comes next. The growth Of the textile in
dustry is pretty uniform throughout the
country, the single exception to the rule
being California. where the wool industry
has Ian guished on account of high wages.
high price of wool and high freight rates.
The value of woolen goods produced in
the whole country in the census year was
S337, ,76S, ,524, which were made at a cost
of S203, 095, 600 for material and SIC, $50, 900
for labor. Originally this product was
scattered, mills being started wherever
sheep were abundant. But gradually, in
obedience to the law of concentration, the
industry drified to the localities where it
had been brought TO the highest perfec-
ton, and massachusetts, which raises no
wool, became the leading maker of woolen
goods. In 1870 Ohio, which is a large
wool-growing State. had $50 wnoleD-mills; !;
in 1890 the number had fallen to 113.
In the census year the leadership of the
industry was contested by Pennsylvania
and Massachusetts, New York occupying
the third place.
Ths kind of woolens chiefly produced in
this country ars strong, staple, plain
fabrics for which the fleece of our Spanish
merino is adapted. In England the wool
grown is chiefly the long combing variety.
which is the best for dress fabrics; Ger
many and France raise a fine merIno
combing wool, from which their light and
are made. aDd Turkey, which grows
nothing but carpet woods. is famous for
its rugs and carpets Each country varies
its product in mixing its native wool with
imported woods; thus England is compet-
ing with France in broadcloths by mixing
Australian wool with its domestic clip;
but the bulk of the goods produced in most
countries is that for which the native wool
is naturally adapted.
The S337, 768, 600 worth Of wsolen goods
produced in this country in the census
year was produced from 3S5, ,671. 900 pounds
of wool, of which 276,O00,000 pounds were
of domestic growth and 109.902, 900 were
imported. These figures are exclusive of
foreign yarns, mohair, alpaca, etc. OF
the imported wools $4,000, 900 pounds were
carpet woods, which we do not produce at
all, although there is no good reason why
we should not. OF the other classes Of
woods it may be said that our mills are
largely supplied by the domestic clip.
England. which was for centuries the
greatest wOol-growing country 10 the
world, consumed in 1890 120, 600, 600 pounds
of domestic wool and $50. 600, 900 of foreign
wool. and in the same year France consumed
124, ,0000 900 pounds Of native wool and 295.-
O0O. 900 of imported. Following the foreign
lead our wooden spinners are now making
some high-clasS cassimeres from mixture
OF the domestic fleece, which is uneQuaied
for strength and durability, with the
Australian fleece, which is noted for fine
ness, brightness and beauty of finish.
There is every reason to believe that with
proper encouragement our growers in cer-
tain parts of the country could rival the
Australian wool.
Not the least of the drawbacks with
which our wooden spinners have TO con-
tend is that the market for wooen goods
is governed by the fashions. and that these
are set in London and Paris. If those
European capitals decree that a certain
class of goods shall be worn an American
manufacturer who makes another class
will fiud his goods left on his hands. Not
only this, bu! the popular belief in the
superiority of European cloths over Amer
ican cloths is SO deeply rooted that when
an American maker weaves really fine
cloth he has to label il as English or French
to sell it, just as the New Y ork wine-dealer
labels his claret as a Bordeaux product in
order to get il into market. When shall
we be big and independent enough to set
our own fashions?
-------------------