The daily morning journal and courier., 1894-07-14

"tFa tu hthtC hpluHh
 At long distances again the fiord walls part for brief shore Of erags with 8 wild and gloomy valley line above, Beyond this feathery line Of forest will be seen; sheh an amphithea- Ire of rock. touched by the bright sun- light until its masses glow like bur hished bronze; and far and high be- yoHd lies giittering rim Of sapphire blue. where the trackless lee fields seem throbbing and puising with their fade less fires in the xhostly upper light.
 The first night we tarried in the huts of Helmenas; the second Freda secured me couch on a bonder's fioor near styve: the third night We were housed at the little inn of Dyrdai the fourth we slept in the open boat moored to jagged rock. where I could see that the ford boatmen had from time immemo- rial sought the same friendly shelter; and on the fifth day and night began to realize Freda's wondr0us ford craft -an unconscious cunning like the Indi- ans wood-lore r'the coast sailors un- explainable added sense of mstinctive pre-knowledge of location in fair weather or foui-which made clearer to her than an ordnance chart every hid den chasnn. sequest cred waterfall. sac ter farm upon the mountains. cluster of peasants huts beside the viks or tiny dals. or unseen home-nest among the crags above.
 l discovered also how the plodding, patient soul was acquiring her meager store of my language.
 When opposite some tremendous wa terfall she would rest upon her oars, point to the tumbling. spumy mass and utter the Morse word "vandfaldw with bewitching smile of eager inaul- ry.
 Waterfall" I would answer; and then, as her long, steady strokes were resumed. she would repeat the word aloud in those tones which were liquid music to my ears.
 If glacier was espcd above the crags she would call out, "Isbrae?" An eagle Tapping along the precipice edge would bring the query. "Osrn?" Cat tie. like tiny specks in some pockety hollow of stone and mist above us would be pointed out as. "Kvoeg. A shadowy gorge would bring the ejacu- lation, Strube" But we came to one of the pleasantest misunderstanding of the journey over the word Jordboer .
 She could not make mo understand what she meant, and 1t worried us both greatly. Turning sharp angle of a prec1pice, we came to perhaps an acre of level shore, where the suns rays beat down with torrjd fervor between cloud-piercing walls. Driving the boat with tremendous force upon the silvery shingle, she took my hand impetuous- ly and leaped upon the shore.
 Now! now! Jordboer! jordboer! here!'
 Not hundred feet from the shore she began parting the grass and pointing to the ground. It was crimsoned with the tiniest but sweetest strawberries had ever tasted.
 "Strawberries" I shouted delight fully, divining her meaning.
 "Ja, ja! Yees, yees4-jordboer! Stro- bers" she answered as ecstatically as though every opeuof the tiny red spheres had been a diamond.
 We gathered quarts, pailfuls, of the delicious wild fruit and resumed our journey. ,.
 Though there was still a flood of sun shine above the ford, its walls were constantly growirs closer, higher, more appalling from the frequency of cas- cades and the sense, of imprisonment, while along the water, and for hun dreds of feet above, it was already be- coming dark.
 Shall we sleep this night, Freda?" I finally timidly inquired.
 Greatly" she answered with a lit- tie gurgle of laughter, and instantly turned the boats prov squarely be- heath the nearly 8 mile of solid stone above our heads.
 The place into which Freda had guided our boat was practically yer tical Assure thousands of feet high, and perhaps as deep below the waters sur face. One edge was like rounded pill lar for all its mighty height. The oth- CT, correspondingly hollowed, followed 1t to the clouds. But in behind the nar- row opening where sight could not pen citrate, were whispers, murmurs and the hoarse callings of falling waters.
 Not fifty feet from the entrance our boat grated against a shelving rock. Above 1t, through scme strange action of the nature forces in previous centu- ries, the wall had given way, or been eaten away, forming covered hollow like half of truncated cone. Caverns like this have been in use as resting places for the night by the peasantry, in their journeyings over their national highways, the fiords, for more than a thousand years.
 At Freda's bidding, I helped her draw our boat upon the strange hospice floor. Then, after g. rousing fire had been built, torch in hand she showed me the curious place; the paddock of few square yards where goats and cat tie, when being transported by boat to new grazing grounds, stir not the whole night long, knowing as we'll as humans the danger of misstep or roam- ing the rock chamber where food was stored and rude iron utensils have re- mained through centuries of peasant travellers use; and the little niche like toll-box, where those who will may de- posit few ore for the nights housing; and then after a hearty supper pre- pared by Freda's dexterous hands, our touches were spread, Freda's in the prow and my own in the stern of the beached boat, which we had wedged into upright position by sticks of our fuel and loose stones from the pad dock; when, with the cheeriest good nights had ever received or given and with the weird music of the falling waters about us, we sank into peaceful