Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-11-24
JEWELS BEND TO FASHION.
Gems, Like Fabrics, Have Theil
Changing Vogue.

Gems, Like Fabrics, Have Their
Changing Vogue.
From the New York Times.
How do you test a diamond?" asked a
Times representative Of leading 1eweler.
by looking at It," he replied. II know
q diamond as you would know New
Yorker If you were to meet him in Russia
or Timbuctoo."
but are there no tests by which the
uninitiated may protect themselves?"
mo. Other stones than diamonds will
scratch or CIT glass. diamond when
filed presents a peculiar appearance, but
one who did not know it beforehand would
not be likely to note the distinguishing
characteristics afterward The moisture
of the breath fades more quickly from
a diamond than from an imitation stone,
but the difference is very slight Experts
breathe upon a diamond to dim 1t SO that
flaws may be more readily detected. These
are of several kinds, beginning with color.
A pure white diamond is the most valua-
BILE. Next to that blush tint is high in
favor, because it gives a better effect than
other shades.
There is one popularity about this blue
tint which should be understood by those
possessing Jewels. blue-white diamond
will affect the color of stones finer than
fabric makes a pure white look soiled and
blue-black causes other blacks to look
rusty.
There are many flaws in diamonds.
Sometimes they are like tiny blots, such
as may be seen in cheap window glass.
Others are like specks of sand. Cloudiness
is a frequent flaw. Then, too, there may
be nick of infinitesimal proportions. but
such as would involve wasteful cutting,
or it would interfere with refraction from
other angles. So you see with so many
possibilities of imperfection how rare
perfect stone is likely to be, and conse-
quently how great Is its value.
Diamonds and Rubies.
Diamonds will stand rough usage. They
may be washed with soap and water and
left wet without injury. They are prac-
tically imperishable, except by fire.
1.-The correct setting for a diamond is
with as little gold showing as possible.
What is known as the hoop setting Chat
is In straight line parallel with the
edges of the ring) is the style at present
where more than one stone is used. The
cluster, such as known few years ago,
is seldom seen.
"A single diamond has come to be recog-
nized as an engagement ring almost
tacitly as the plain gold circle for the
wedding ring. There are, however some
who prefer fancy rings, and / have now
an order for sapphire set in diamonds.
"Rubfes are quite as expensive dia-
monds, and fine specimens are much more
rare. Pigeon blood is seldom to be had
at any price"
What is pigeon blood?" was asked.
1T Is peculiar dark. rich red, likened
by some to- arterial blood. though that
hardly describes 1T. 1t is sort of mixture
of blood and cochlneal, If you can under
stard such a blend of color.
THE new ruby mines of South Africa
yield stones wholly unlike the old oriental
ruby, which come almost exclusively from
Burmah. These African stones are what
cause all the trouble in the market. They
have set the fashion for a deep rose pink
shading into red that is almost a ma
genta, and with stones of this color 1t Is
almost impossible to tell a ruby from a
fine garnet Experts are frequently de-
ceived. OF course so far as beauty Is con-
cerned, 1t matters little, but 1t renders the
market value of ruby uncertain.
snpphires and Pearls.
"Sapphires and emeralds are the same
stone, but the former Is more popular just
at present. That is one of tho strange
things learned about precious stones that
they are classified. not according to color,
but to hardness and composition. The green
stone, which is now seen everywhere mass
ed for ornament, and which the ignorant
would describe a pale or grass green
emerald Is really garnet found in tho
Ural mountains. 1t is known as Divine
and is strikingly effective.
last year, is going out of fashion, and for
an excellent reason. 1t is really not a
precious stone, though it will always find
admirers among blondes, and is especially
suited for ornaments for young girls The
trouble with 1t is that 1t requires to be
kept with great care. Grease or even a
few drops of cologne will turn the color
to what a woman would call "a nasty
green and there is no way of restoring
1T.
Pearls will always be among our most
precious jewels. A fine pearl is one that
is perfectly spherical ana without flaw,
even SO much as might have been made
by the prick Of No. 10 needle and IT
will have rich sheen like SATIN Such a
pearl will never discolor and will stand
almost as rough usage as a diamond A
pearl Is like a human tooth. 1t Is COW
cred with three layers similar to enamel
So long as these are intact 1t is not easily
injured. but once let the enamel be pierced
ever slightly and decay sets in. Black
pearls are much worn this season. They
Are rich but iRconsplcuous ornaments"
Keep Him Out!
From the Chicago Record.