St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1894-05-31
Selected Story.
AMONG THE PENITENTES.

For two months or more l had
been in dilligent correspondence with
the Americans of New Mexico, IN
search of some definite information
regarding the services of that most
fanatical of all secret orders, the
Penitentes. Scant success rewarded
my efforts. Some replied that while
they had lived in New Mexico for
years, and had frequently heard OF
these peculiar rites, they had never
witnessed them, as they were al
ways conducted at night, either on
open plains or in lonely canOns, and
that the presence of Americans was
neither desired nor permitted. Others
wrote that the advance of clviliza-
ton had brought about dlscOntln-
uance of the barbaric practices IN
question, and that, no matter where
l might go. the simple tact OF my
presence would be sufficient to cause
the withdrawal OF the participants
TO more remote and inaccessible
parts.
No one could offer the inducement
OF certainty, no matter how far we
might travel to see them and danger
of bodily harm was frequently sug-
gested as the penalty of too open
perseverance. l had stated in my
letters my intention of photograph
ing the scenes, but IN every instance
this proceeding, or the attempt at
it, was strongly discouraged, owing
to the peculiar but well-dehned pre-
JUDGE of Mexicans in general, and
the superStltiOus order of PenltenteS
in particular. against being subjected
to this process.
1t was therefore with strong
doubts as to the ultimate success of
our expedition that our little party
OF four, two ladies and two men,
left Denver on Tuesday morning of
Holy Week for the Land of POGO
Tempo" Wednesday noon found
us at the forlorn station of Tries
Piedras, with the wind blowing hard
and bitterly cold. However, full of
confidence in the efficacy of our null
titudinous listers, mackintoshes,
seal-skins, and steamer rugs, we
climbed into the open wagon which
there awaited US for our thirty-tive-
mile drive across the open prairie to
the little town of Taos. Six hours
were consumed in this drive, and
every moment the wind blew more
and more hercely, causing suffering
which before the end came had be-
come simply exquisite. Our Mexi-
can driver, utterly devoid of the
slightest comprehension of the Eng
lish language, sat stOlid and indiff-
erent, but urging on our hardy
team of white broncos, until finally
the few scattered lights marking
our journeys end came in view.
Pullingup in front of long, low,
one-st oried adobe building facing
on a primitive plaza, mine host, in a
curious mixture of German and
Spanish, bade US welcome, and our
spirits rose at the cheering sight of
the blazing pinon wood in the cur
ious adobe fireplace built in the cor
ner of each room. A plain but
wholesome supper served to COM
plete the transforma ton, and we
rose refreshed and light-hearted
ready once more for anything in the
way of adventure which fortune
might offer.
Taos and its immediate neighbour
hood enjoys a population of proba-
bly, twelve hundred Mexicans and
but six Americans. One of these lat
ter, a physician, had been my cores
pondent, and shortly after our ar
rival he called on US in person, greet
ing us with an air of hospitality and
freedom which seemed thoroughly in
accord with his huge frame. A native
of New York city, and a graduate of
one Of it's best medical colleges, he
drifted to Taos some four years ago,
and since then he has risen to high
favor with all the Mexicans for miles
around, by reason of his ability as
physician and surgeon and an in
tense personal magnetism. From
him we learned that in all probalil-
ity we would be able to see the Peni-
tentes at their best on the following
day by driving to the Ranches de
Taos, four miles away. According
-lv the next afternoon W started out
accompanied by the doctor, a civil
engineer, graduate of Lehigh Univer-
sity, and mining man of Montana
The road to Ranches de Taos led
along the foothills OF the Sangre de
Cristo range, until, CHM bing a steep
hill from a little settlement Of most
ancient-looking adobes, we came to
the top of the mesa. Here a most
unexpected view met our eyes.
About four hundred Mexicans, men,
women and children, were drawn in
a straight line, extending from a
small adobe hut at one end of the
field to large cross standing about
a quarter of mile away. ScOwls
and angry glances were directed at
us from all quarters as we drove
along seeking a point OF vantage,
and calls to turn back were sent
after us as we drove beyond the line
which they had formed. We could
not approach the line of march closer
than about 125 feet. and here we
halted our horses TO await develop