The herald., 1894-12-23

| sleeves and lower part OF boo,ce pale
blue satin. brocaded with green. Plated
pieces OF the green serge are attached TO
a rolling collar and fall over the BACK
and front Of the bodice, opening at top
OF sleeve.
EVENING WRAPS.
Two kinds OF evening wraps find favor
this season, and are designed by Paquin.
One is ehort affair that displays the
gown beneath, aud the other, on the
contrary, concsals it entirely. The hrst
is made of velvet and chinchlila iur.
the black, blue or msuve velvet forming
q short godet cape scarcely to the waist,
with large revers OF chinchilla high
about the throat, and long stole ends OF
velvet lined with chinchilla. special
feature OF this little wrap Is several but.
terfiy bows, high at the back. made OF
mauye satin shade belt OF the
mauve satin passes under the cape and
holds the front in shape.
The large closks are OF chine fiowered
silks in very large designs. and are cut
with full godet pleats in the bsck OF the
skirt to cover wsll the wide dress skirts
beneath them. They are made with
hugo sleeves, or else with a series OF
broidered chiffon trims many, in small
colets. and forming an immense ruche
around the neck.
The iurs most used in the evening
are ermine and chinchilla. Ermine
capes fail in full folds to the waist from
faring collar. Chinchilla serves most
often as lining for some rich garment,
and comes into view when the cloak is
thrown back in the seat.
Many gray silk or moire cloaks, and
also cloth, are worn at the opera. They
are lined with White satin quilted in
shells, and are trimmed with a deep
collar end perhaps stole Of white fur,
such 40 Grim ped Chinese lamb.
Moire velvet 10 one of the fabrics
chosen for carriage cloaks and for those
worn over evening dresses. For the lat
ter one of the richest is large pelisse of
ceriee moire velvet trimmed with chin.
chilla and white lace. The waist is very
easy fitting and the ekirte are wide
enough for those OF the newest dresses.
A shoulder cape OF the moire velvet ie
edged with cninchilla, and smaller
velvet cape above is entirely covered
with Venetian lace. A high faring COL
lar is of chinchilla on one side and vel
vel on the other. Enormous sleeves COM
plete this superb wrap. In black with
sable or chinchilla trimming this would
be aD elegant cloak for afternoon calls.
CoIFFuREs.
Tiarss of jewels are less worn this sea-
son than last, even by the grande
DANES and rich young matrons. The
coiffures are simple, being cloee to the
head, yet waved on the sides, and
dressed at the back neither high nor
low, but between. The forehead is left
uncovered as much as possible, and the
hair, after being parted, is held down
closely with very small jewelled eide
combs.
GLOVES AND SLIPPERS.
White undresaed kid gloves are worn
with full dress evening toilette. no
matter what coler of the gown may be,
and are of any length iancied, some
meeting the short sleeves, while others
leave the round elbow exposed. These
white gloves are also worn with calling
costumes in the orchestra seats.
Small empire fans are the latest fancy,
but many of larger size are carried.
White kid fans painted by an artist in
euch matters and mounted on sticks of
mother OF pearl are charming. Gauzs
fans with bluet apansles or those OF
glowing red, forming the decorate ton are
carried by young women. The graceful
ostrich feather fans are still used. both in
colors and black, many having glitter
ing spangles as an ornament.
White satin slippers with pointed toes
trimmed with rosettes OF, mousselins de
sole, very large and full, are worn with
dresses of any color. But white gloves
and white slippers give the effect of
large hands and feet, and while there is
nothing to vie with the white gloves,
the slippers may give place to those
made OF the material OF the gown. or
else to the black satin slipper which
makes the foot look very small.