New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1894-07-08
A DAY IN MADRID.
THE MORNING IN THE ARMORY-TWO
TYPES OF SPANISH HOMES-IMITA-
TIONS OF PARIS-FASCINATION
OF THE JALEO-AN EVENING
AT THE THEATRE AND
CIRCUS.


anywhere else. that it is the longest in the
world. 1t begin ct any time, as early
In the morning. and when It ends is a mystery.
The present writer has yet had the energy
to sit up II wait for its disappearance. What
can be brought within its limit Of it has any de-
ponds not only upon ones taste, but upon ones
familiarity with the surroundings. A typical day
in Madrid Is perhaps worth describing for the
benefit Of those whose stay IN that comparative
ly little visited city may be brief.
At in the morning the Royal Armory. occu-
plying portion Of the Palace. IS accessible In
driving there. by the way 1t is sufficient to in,
struct the cabman 10 go to the Palace. Were
you going 10 the residence Of the Duke Of Alba
for example. 1t would be necessary to mention
his name. The Royal Palace is spoken Of amons
Spaniards without the prefix by which foreign,
ers know It, It's Armory stands justlhably at
the beginning Of a days amusement. for it IS
one Of the greatest in Europe. 1t Is no small
privilege to see Charles v mounted his
horse. armed with his lance. clad in the Gleam-
Ing harness which he wore in life. and repeating
in every detail OF dress and attitude the splendid
figure he makes in Titian's portrait. There "a
much else equally interesting in the Armory. but
when the clock strikes 10 from the Palace belfry
one steps into the court and finds It alive with
the military life Of to-day The guard is changed
at this hour the ceremonies lasting until II
There are two bands: there Is a force Of several
hundred infantry. cavalry and artillery drawn
from the best troops in Spain. and the picture
they present ~ very interesting. In the inner
court the halberdiers u the household max
ing their changes also and the air is full Of stir
ring sounds
From the Palace It Is we'll to 90 ut once-a
master Of ten mnutes-to the great modern
Church Of san Francisco. the most important
building Of its kind in Madrid. In one respect it
is the chief church In Spain. 1t Is a Pantheon
Of contemporary Spanish art The walls and
ceilings are covered with decorations by Manoz-
Degraln. Casado. Marcno-Carb0nero, and cspa-
cially by Plasencia. who died only few years
ago leaving behind him some Of the best work
ever done In Spain. II is as necessary for the
student Il modern Spanish art t. 500 this church
as Il is necessary for the student II the ola
masters 10 see the Prado But there IL a deco
rator not represented in san Francisco for whose
sake one should have secured an Introduction -
the Senatorial Palace and should now visit that
building which is within moments drive o,
the church Pradia's masterpiece. The Sur
render Il Granada" decpratos the senate 1t Is
the br!l!an, representation Il a brilliant scene,
ono ~ Tho finest artistic productions ~ the pres
ent time From the Senate the path lies up the
Arorcl . breakfast II the cab has been hired
AZ one point AMI dismissed a. the next stopping
place r. has cost orc pcsctn for each course.
The ra'. per hour. which is cheaper I'm the end,
IS only pose'1s-lb,ut % cents. AMI pour
h.ir. - 20 confines 81 an The cnhman expects.
In the h1lf-hour leN between The senate and
breakfast The photographers on The Geronimo
f. a good place T. visit. and Will" am setting
d WI th,s. practical Items viii add that photo
er,,hs In Malrl are larger IN size than clse-
where IN tho Continent. md cost 2is posetas
each breakfast az the hotel as a long affair -
al Spanish meals arc Northumberland though
Il ls good u is often mo-c convenient 20 - 10
the Faruos restaurant. attached 10 tho cafe az
tho cam. name. corner u tho Mc1la and th-
Gallo P,lIgr s. This IS the best restaurant IN
Madrid both as regards The food and th" service.
4 email om.le,tc. a dish II r,l mullet highly
spi.,l some chicken buried IN rice and me
whole. accompanied by hot.lr ~ Iuofa claret or
~ ManzanIlia. the best white win" ~ OBJ" o. un-
,,v-this f. a menu az Spanish as n IS piguant
r.- dessert There. is % bowl ~ small strawberries.
snrlrl<l.l with sugar and lr"nchel I'm orange
nil... or. II sou Wish 90 Doe entirely luxurious
ask for some "fraissoucs" or large strawberries.
These are delicious NOR" expensive though
TN, meal Is not IN The long run. costly ono.
After breakfast for few hours the Museum
~ IN. Prndo il an endless delight. which Is only
left undiscussed here because IT would require
many long letters adequately - notice IT'S thcas-
ure. Tho Van Dycks and Hlphaels. thc M'r"s
and Murilos ihe Van Eycks AMI Van Der W'y-
dens. the pictures by Rubeu' and hy the great
Span,ard himself place the Irado abreast of the
mi the Louvre. the Hermitage ana the other
renowned museums of the world. by o'clock
n is possible though rather early. - make calls.
OF conrs, these depend upon the extent of ones
acquaintance: but II thc traveller has any span
ieh friends n. must surely see ILLUSTRATIONS oi
nj least TWO typical phases Of Spanish HE. me
first should be- the dwelling Of a gentleman VITA
artistic tastes In that the furniture Is old and
beautiful The walls are usually taprstil'd ana
when they nro not they are hung with the works
Of the leading modern artists oil Spun III
America we SEQ far loss Of the recent art Of
suaIn than we should The collectors OF spain
are wiser. and in one ~ the houses in Madrid
such as Is now being touched upon. th" walls
are crowded with pictures by Fortuny. Ntllegas
nic, Ros,les Madrozo Barbado and Pradla
that would simply astonish the New-Nork con-
nnlsseur The contrast between the pictures ana
tbcIr su-roundIngs ir such "A Spanish home Is
necullar on one sid, IS the sparkle ~ pictures
I'm which the artists seem t. pour sunlight upon
sunlight 10 pile Jewels upon each other ana To
set their scenes aname with golden objects, rich
embroidered stuffs and the antique braZ'n fur-
nitnre Of church and palace. In reNel OF coi'r
and light Is the art ~ Fortuny and his follow
ers expressed ON the other hand are the sober
tints Of old Flemish hanglngs. the deep reds ana
furnished Colds II rare Spanish man 1gany pound
I'm metal and the solid medieval woods ana
feathers Of chairs and cupboards centuries old
This Is the environment In which the most Span
,sh ~ the Spaniards love TO live and to which
Won feel most willing TO return az your host says
On the threshold: "Yl Va sabe donfo tene
su casa un amigo; "You know where you
have found your house and friend"
The other side OF Spanish life Is more magnil-
cent and less picturesque, but It Is Interesting as