The Portland daily press., 1894-10-06
A WHEEL IN HOLLAND.
Farther Experience of the ElweIl Bicy.
cling Party.

No Coasts in the Land of Dykes and bitches
But Fine Level Roads and Curious
Customs and Landscapes-How the
Rich Dutchmen Spend the Summer.
To the Editor of the PRESS:
Rotterdam, Sept. 15tn.-We knew
before we went there that there
were not many mountains In the land
of dykes and bitches, and we also
knew there were no end of canals on
which foated broad-keeled barges, and
windm1lls waving their long arms over
the landscape; and that the people had
liking for long-stemmed pipes, and
wooden shoes, for all pictures we had
seen of that country conveyed these ideas
and all we had read backed up the pic
lures. We left Holland with good deal
OF knowledge that the books and pic
lures had failed to impart, and memories
of delightful days in a unique land.
From Vessel, where we entered, to the
city of Arnheim, we wheeled over a
road as level as lake, and smooth as a
marble-topped table, young growth
of frs hid the scenery, if there is any,
and the thirty miles were given up to
the pleasures of rapid motion. Here
the fast men put on their best pace, and
many friendly brushes took place. 1t was
the easiest thirty miles the writer ever
covered on wheel. Arnheim is a beau
tiful city, and we enjoyed its parks and
gay concert gardens during our brief
stay. But the land between this city
and Utrecht was what surprised us, and
afforded US new experience. Imagine
a forest of elms, their tail branches in
terlaclng at the top, forming veritable
Jungle for nearly twenty miles. Through
this forest runs wide avenue paved
with bricks set on end, lined on both
sides by fine mansions surrounded by
EXC ulsltely kept grounds divided from
each other by deep bitches. At short
distances well kept coffee houses afford
opportunity for Refreshments. Over all
wave the green branches of the elms,
and the view from the road to the en-
lowered houses presented most tropi-
cal appearance. We were informed that
these were the summer residences of the
wealthy merchants of Amsterdam, Rot
terdam, and other important cities of
Holland and that large sums were ex-
pended in identifying their surroundii s.
j uS IcSulL is IL pduOEdulca bWdIIY nlll6S
in, length, of green lawns, bright with
flowers of ev ry hue, dotted with ele-
CANT mansions, allIdimly visible to the
pas 3er-by between the dropping branches
of the graceful elms. But there is only
the one road, there are no lakes on
which to row, no mountains to climb,
no place from which to get "view,"
no hunting, no fishing. The Dutchman
wants none of these adjuncts to give him
pleasure. He sits on his broad verandah,
smokes his pipe, looks at the flowers,
plays with his dog, calls on his neigh
bors, enjoys a quiet game at cards-and
what more would you have? He is
not like the English who spend their
vacations testing their powers of endur-
ance or the American who tries sto see,
how much money he can spend in speci-
fed times Who shall say his is not the
-Wisest way?
Between Utrecht and Amsterdam we
cnose the road bordering the canal and
this feature of the country was seen in
perfection. All day our vision was filled
with the huge mahogany colored boats
loaded with every conceivable kind of
merchandise. Potatoes, carrots, hay,
manure, flour, oil, cabbages cheese, cat
tie, sugar, coal, lime, iron, ETC.. etc
were beng transported slowly along by
these inland waterways If the wind
favored sails furnished the motive power
IL nO6 In6n, WOMEN anu nOrSeS CO0K / is
place. At short intervals the canal
passed through picturesque villages, the
houses of which cast the reflection OF
their quaint gables into the smooth
water, and the bridges slowly opened to
let the boats pass through. The Whole
effect-the gliding sail, the toiling men
and horses, the great barees, always
with a wooden snoed, pipe-smoking man
at the HEM, and smart little canal dog
sqt, the how the uvin dr,i 10,
the green, level pastures, dotted with black
and hite cattle, and in the distance the
tall spires of the towns outlined against
the sky-was SO entirely unlike the
scenes in other lands that one had the
feeling OF being in a picture and not in
one of the most matter-of-fact, money
loving countries OH the globe as we re-
ally were. 1t gives one rathersa curious
sensation to note that the road son which
he is wheeling along is decidedly lower
than the watery highway at his side,
The Dutch seem to understand how to
make water run up hill, aud to stay
just v here it is wanted. 1t was busy
day for the camera men, who were sur
feited by the multitude of good "sub-
jects."
Amsterdam is fine city and the
AmStel Hotel one of the finest hotels in
Europe. 1t is needless to asy we enioyed
orr stay there. The life along the water
front is specially interesting. Every
place in Holland of any importance has
steam boat connection with this great
city, and this in addition to the foreign
trade, gives the harbor a most animated
appearance.
Over the good brick roads we ran
through HARLEM, with its beautiful
park, through shady avenues, towards
Leynen Between these two cities the
cultivation of tulip bulbs is extensively
carried on, and quite number of the
party visited the tulip farms and pur-
chased bulbs to carry home. AS we an
tered the city of Leyden we Immediately
became aware that something unusual
was going on. Every street was blocked
with people, and an inconceivable num-
Der of booths and side shows were doing
a rushing business. We struggled
through the crowd to our hotel, and
there learned that the great annual fair
of Leyden was in full blast. Years ago
every city in Holland had it's great an
nual fair, at which time, law and order
were put under the table, and everyone
had good" time according TO his own
ideas. Leyden is now the only Dutch
city that keeps up the old custom. At
ter supper we mingled with the crowd.