Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1894-06-26
DOCTORING WINES.
Ii 10 Done In Almost Every Stage Of
Their MSnufncture.

From McClure's Magazine.
Thus no one Of the rooms 1 visited was
buster than that devoted TO wine In fact.
in lss9, out OF ls.l11 analyses made. u. 40
were Of wines. The proportion is only n
keeping with the consumption Of the CITY.
which averages about slJo.VJooo0 year
and IL Is in harmony with the numberlcss
evils which. from the beginning to the cad
OF the life history OF bottle Of French
wine. combine to ruin its character.
These evils begin with making. Even AZ
the natural process be followed. and The
wine made honestly by fcrmeat.ns fresa
grapes. there are various dangerous Stages
which make manipulations necessary. SOP
pose that the grapes have been perforce,
gathered before properly RIPE. inere - -
excess Of acid In the ferment WhIcn N Lst
be eouaperacted and the sugar nlsss oe 49,
creased There oeacs,e ana apprO,va
methods IOr aeeoi.pl.s-....s LAS. 49,. .a.~.
aIS NOT always na~Ia.eI saI.IIGIly eO..-
scieE tIousIy, and SOME VI l.iSiII sI.c vl.,-.-
tunity Tor sort ~ ofiiclal ,.a,vfIn. ..-a.
Is. prescribe roiInLIa Mn.en si.Ss -
VINE ami demands cnoGga water - louu.e
the vintage.
II the WINE escapes In making. IL as Juo-
Ject 10 q ni1ltlluue OF n.aiadIes al &c. Nar T.
wnich must b~ reAtea, aAu a. napi,Ss.s
sometimes, as IN human meIlc.ne, tn-I 49,
remedy IL worse than Ia, disease. LiIaar. :,
Tor example, As ADDED 10 c0ui.e.act aN.a-
ity, ana ~ transformed into acetate vi leaa.
Alum Is frequently uSeI -.sG.sSI E.-4.s
10 give tnem u certain yOutnIufness: .ssl.I
anu plaster are STANDARD remedies BEt "a
excess OF any one OF these substancv -
their employment In connection VITA $50
tain other substances, may result ia COM
pounds pOsiliseIy ruInoGs the Meath.
With such manipulauOns Ii is my n
abusing them. wiLIulIy or isnorantly. mat
the harm lies There are ctaers, -aCt .a
themselves harmful, and the cher Of them
Is watering. Thirty years ago this Vas
done In a bold and gross wa, sInpi, W
adding So much water. Ii was a Irau1,
but nobody's health was injured by IL. To-
day science has come TO the aid Of the de-
frauder Wine weakened by water ia
strengthened by alcohols OF inferior quail
tiles, made from grains and beets froauc-
ing drunkenness much more QUICKLY than
the natural alcohol and entaillng m1re
fatal results To restore the color lost IN
watering. various coloring matters. animal
and vegetable are used. The very bouquet
is initiated.
But science does stu mere for the de-
frauder than this. All Of these processes
suppose a basis Of grape juice. Science has
found a way To make wine without this
supposed essential. and so perfectly that
connoisseurs and chemists hesitate TO pro-
nounce IL false.
BY mixing alcohol water saline ans ,-ol-
oring matters. and a substance known "a
the oil Of French wine. a composition g
produced which many expert will pass
as natural wine. There is one serious Diff
Guilty about this product. however The
oil which furnishes its SAVIOR end boaoue.
is. unhappily, dangerous poison a small
quantity Of which Injected into the veins
OF a dog Kills him in less than an hour
II IL the business of the laboratory 20 do
eide II any OF the manipuls tons ana faiSi-
fcations limited at above have been practtc-
ed on the SAMPLES sent to II. Expert taste-s
begin the work, and give their Judgment on
SAVIOR, color. bouquet The chemist then
takes IL. testing all its fixed and volatile
qualities by his sure and delicate procespea