Morning journal and courier., 1894-03-03
TALES OF TEN TRAVELLERS.
-Ths Cruise of the Happy Thought.
BY EDGAR L. wAkEMAN.
tcopyright. 1894 All rights reserved. I

Losf All TeStFFcu-l
 Travelling perforcs by sea in winter along the fsrthsst Maine coast, the eye constantly rests upon @ wild and dreary line of shore. For scores of miles not 6 hamlet and scarcely lonely habitation can be discsrned. Here and there at long intervals a shostly light house, psrched upon some drear, storm beaten, ees gir- dled rock or grewsome promoutory, may be seen; but this only serves to hint of ever present danger or to intentify the shuddering consciousness of unusual des- olstiop.
 The havoc and terror along these winter shores almost reach mslignanoy. Once driven in behind these foam mantlsd, granite hesdlands for shelter, quieter waters may be reached, backed by beetlins mountsincu. crsgs; but few friendly folk, cabins or hsmlsts are found to succor or welcome the mariner in distress. From the sea all seems as if the spirit of desols- ton had retired here, impatient of its own maddening power. for @ winters fury, and. wild end dlstaught, had challenged | the sea to mortal combat.
 | Awful are these struggles between ocean | and shore. There Is scarcely cessation of battle. Mountain waves, ss If led by fierce and p!ume-tossed hosts, charge ard charge thunderously through bitter day and wilder night upon black-faced ledge and headlsnd, fsyed by cutting winds and swathed In ghostly fog; while the hoarse mutteripgs of battle are endless wailIng undertones to the shrisks of storm beaten sea fowl, whirling and skirling above, as if mad in sympathy with the tremendou. elemental conflicts.
 But when the winters rigors have passed and the fury of the tempests Is spent, what magical change has comel
 Murmurous sea pulses on welcoming shore. Ssvagery has given place to gen. tlest peace. Kelp and sea urchins grow and nestle at the foot of every ledge. In nun ersble islands, bathed in balmy, sea spent airs, bloom with shurb and fern and flower. Countless coves rect between is let's and crsgs, mirroring only radisn skies, inviting to most venturesome quest and safe for shallop, dory, sloop or ever | ngntest canoe.
 In far hooks. behind emerald crowned crsgs, lovingly nestle built homes; ana here and there, circlipg land ward, in-shor, and on outlying beaches, groups of fishers huts picturesquely touch the very water'l edge. Barefoot women are drying ana mendirg the seines; and thousand browI weirs line the shores like hosts of ruess epears.
 Steamer and sail and bslmy winds, eve rywhere at sea; beauty, interest and de light. everywhere toward the mighty lsni of pineei and for ecoTes and scores O
 miles along shore, to Aoadian land wher' flies the red cross of St. George, glint O
 fishers sail, sound of fsher's song, voice of hsher's wife and little ones, mipglst
 with glad calls of land and water fowl
 homing in the headlsnd hooks or islsn, orags; with sunny days, stsr.l nights an, . the ceaseless whisperings of favoring gale |, and songs of the joyous sea.
 ] At the furthermost reach of this shor , inside the American boundary, lies the an cient city of EAstport, girdled by the nc . ble Passamoquoddy bay. Beside 1t, to tn . west, long arm of the eea, the Cobscoo bay, euts through erags and islets for neal ly score of miles to the north, breakin ( at last into two tiny estusries, fed by mul t murous rivulets from the pine-clad hjl' a beyond.
 al On one side of these streams, bsnsat