The record-union., 1894-03-31

around the island. All Jamaica roads are
excellent, but the coast road that encircles
the island, touching at every port, is a
magnificent piece of work. The tourist
taking this drive-about 500 miles-muSt
put up with many inconveniences; must
expect some rain, indifferent accommo-
dations and irregular meals, although
sometimes the board and lodgings are
excellent. His horses may be good, but
they may prove poor, little WeaklingS,
and the driver may develop an astonish-
ing thirst for rum before the journey is
done. But, with all the drawbacks, the
trip pays.
The reward is scenery, rich in color
and often grand in outline. There are
groves of coacoanuts waving their grace
tul leaves, and miles OF vivid green Da-
mana plantations. There are great forests
OF trees covered and strangled in the
death-like embrace of vines and creepers;
deep woods, dark and silent; old sugar
estates, With ruined mills overgrown
with creepers and wild pineapple. Great
silk cotton trees, the monarchS of these
woods, rise tall and majestic their wide
spreading branches covered with orchids
and parasites. Then there is grazing
country i'll the west, saved only from
mOnotony by great clumps of bamboo.
There is fascination in these punches of
grass sixty to eighty ieet rall-a subtle
charm and grace. Then, too. there are
forests of spice and logw00d, twisted and
gnarled. The mountain scenery is grand
and wild, with glinpses of the distant
sea through vistas OF palms.
The country is fairly teeming with life
pretty little lizards, green or iridescent
as the sun shines upon them, dart about
the tan-leveled palms or into the crevices
OF walls, while butterflies, brilliantly yell
low, and birds constantly 1lit about. The
iS mic oil in,
retrospect seems like bright dream-for
1t is the happy quality OF the human
mind 10 forget disagreeable features that
were mere instances In a delightful eXpe-
rience.
Outside Of the glory Of the tropical
vegetation and the study OF nature in her
pleasantest mood, the most interesting
thing in Jamaica is the jamaica negro.
He is everywhere and always on hand to
say pleasant GOOD marnin, Massa,"
or ask for a penny. He is a happy devil
may care sort of fellow, shiftless and ire
spOnsible. he means well, but is gener-
ally o lazy to permit Of his good will
doing practical benetit-such as climbing
cocoanut tree TO get you fresh hut.
His language detes grammar and his
pronunciation of the English words en-
tirely his own. His wife does most of the
work in the country, which is little
enough, for his fruit trees furnish him
food; cocoanut leaves and mud are the
materials for his hut, and his clothes are
scarcely enough to meet the ordinary
demands of modesty. His children are
often entirely innocent Of wearing ap-
parel.
Time and separation from their cousins
up the Congo has wrought little change
in this race Of aliens. They are still fond
OF the tom-tom style of music, and dance
with the same sweeping movements as
do the DahOmey negroes While curiOusly
enough they entertain many of the same
superstitiOnS of their fOrefathers across
the Atlantic, the Jamaica negro appears
10 have advanced in the process OF evo-
luton only in proportion to the amount
of white blood III his veins. AS you find
all shades of color from the doubtful
white man to the ebony negro, so you
find just as many classes in point of in
telligence.
Climatically Jamaica is almost pertec
ton itself. The northeast winds temper
the heat of the sun and make the nights
cool and comfortable. The southern coast,
sheltered from the trades by the high in
terror mountains, would be insufferably
hot and dry were it not for the sea breeze
called the "doctor'D, that every day
sweeps over the lowland plains and
brings the afternoon shower upon the
mountain sides. Some days the doctor
is late in coming, and then old Sol beats
down with fury. In short, one can find
any climate to suit himself within few
hours drive from any point in the island.
w Washington Post.