Birmingham age-herald., 1894-10-10


 that fabric But for everyday use the palmer they are the better
 Speaking of moire reminds me of a new use for 1t, and that Is that nearly half tho new sunshades are made of it. This ma terial is very handsome for parasols, and however plain they are made they look rich and dressy.
 noted a very stylish coat of bengaline for young lady. It fitted the figure loosely, and had very wide lapels, with a collar made so as to button down over the lapels There were droll little pockets, with the flaps buttoned. in point, and with pointed cuffs also fastened with but tons. These buttons were of oxidized sill yer, beautifully chased in the center.
 For the last two or three seasons buttons hayo not had avery prominent place in wardrobe, but I think I see chance for them in the near future. l was shown some exquisitely chased, inlaid and enam eled buttons which are to be produced next spring. Just now large horn or bone buttons or silk crocheted are about all that one sees, as nearly all the dresses arc closed invisibly with hooks and eyes.
 find on rereading what Ihave said above that omitted to tell how the black and colored velvet and silk coats are trimmed. For very dressy occasions they will have vandyke points of white or yellow lace set upward, in some cases in graduated points and in others points all of one length. Some have tho yandyke collars laid on, and others will have ruffles of rich guipure lace, set on very full around the bottom and headed with very narrow but flne trimming of cut jet beads. Some will have lavish jabots down the front of gui- pure or other real lace, and all these will be lined with satin, the most elegant be- ing white satin or moire. There are few of them that will not have ribbon some where. however little, and ribbon, by the way, is employed in tho most extravagant manner In trimming everything Thc,O was time when ribbon on n tailor made gown would have been voted very bad taste. It is not now.ss sses-
 There was pretty tailor gown for young lady madc of gray and white dia- mond checked goods The skirt was en- tirely plain save for the deep double box plaits in the back. The basque had sprung skirt, faced with marine blue silk. There was vest front of dark blue moire, with wide revers of tho check, faced with the moirc, leaving the edge to show. Around the waist was sash of moire rib bon to match, tied in a double butterfly bow and with long ends reaching to the bottom. There was a short military cape of the checked material, with collar and facing of moire, and it fastened at the neck with q bow and loops of moiro rib bon. I saw this same model developed in a black cloth, and instead of hayinga a sash there wcro two rows of black moire ribbon around the bottomsof the skirt.
 I Isee with pleasure that there is to be much of the wide Hercules braid used on some of the woolen garments, most par tcularly black, for it is rich and elegant trimming, and nothing else seems to be just the right thing for heavy goods.
 The latest news from the headquarters of new styles is that the moyoment against tho excessive -use of acraper on mourning gowns has failed, for the newest arc cov- cred almost completely. with heavy Eng fish orapc, and the yeils touch the bottom of the dress. Itiwoiild seem as if those who mourn must godbaols to the old days when mourning was worn years at a time and the depth of the erape was graduated by an inexorablola law. Anyhow, mourning costumes are distinguished and generally add dignity and nttraction to many who appear very colinionplaco in colors. n--
 It seems to me that every lady Ihave seen this fall has either gotsor is going to get black sgrosgrain, either figured or plain. The figured is the prettiest and tho plain the most elegant, but there are so many delicate and refined patterns to choose from no one need go astray. There are no loud" or garish silks this season. They are all marked by the most cultivat- ed and artistic taste displayed in their de- signs and finish There is also something in tho way they arc made up that pleases tho eye. I noticed particularly one new model. It was of rich black grosgrain, with soft floss and bloom that I have never before seen on that weave The waist was laid in loose, irregular plaits from the neck and shoulders to the belt, and the waist was outlined by draped black velvet belt, with double butterfly bow in the back Thero was collar ar ranged in similar manner, and across tho shoulders there were bands of velvet ending in neat bows oyer bretelles of hand- somo white valenciennes lace. The sleeves were puffs, with a draping in the center The skirt was plain in front, richly gath cred in tho back and had 8 inch knife plating on the edge. In front, at the waist, there was a velvet bow with two long loops and two ends.